Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1885-09-04
ABOUT FRENCH COOKS.
THEIR KITCHENS AND CAREERS-HOW
THEY STUDY THEIR ART.
An Exhibition Of the Society Of French
COOks-PrOud of Their Profession.
Students and Artists OF
the Kitchen.
Especial Correspondence


PARIS, March 11.-Modern France is pre-
ltical instability and good cooking. A revo-
luton is almost as common in this country as
q chef; but while statesmen and regimes have
followed each other with astonishing rapidity
the French cook has never been driven from
his kitchen. He still reigns supreme
throughout the culinary world. The truth Of
this assertion was put beyond question by the
third annual exhibition of the Society Of
French Cooks which occurred in this city
few days ago.
Two or three thousand persons filed by the
tables, which were ladened with roast turkeys,
pheasants, game, fish, galantines, entremets,
pastry and confectionery of all imaginable
artistic shapes. The most famous cooks Of
Paris had sent specimens Of their skill, taste
and study. The presiding geniuses Of the
kitchens Of the Prince Of Radzivill, Of the
Count Hoyes, Austrian ambassador, of NJ
Buloz, editor-in chief of The Revue des Deux
Mondes, and Of a score Of other well-known
personages, were represented at this curious
competition. An immense centrepiece, COM
f~SSNs W VOL VI q uOLCu CdAco, dk4u ucStueu
for the journalists invited to the exhibition,
was crowned with large gilded pen, bearing
this inscription: "Our compliments to tho
press" Even the French cook courts the
favor Of the omnipotent editor. The public
was allowed to inspect this grand array OF
high-wrought delicacies from 8 o'clock in the
evening until 10, when the doors were shut
and tho i,,rv horo,, ifo
After a long and careful weighing of the
pros and cons Of each dish, two gold medals
OF honor, four gilt, eight silver and four
bronze medals We're awarded to as many de
lighted competitors. At IL o'clock the ball
opened. Frenchmen dance, as Germans eat,
on every possible occasion. At2 in the morn
ing came the supper, when all the good things
exposed few hours before were hastily de
voured; and at the music and whirl was
rcsum 4, to cease only with the break Of day.
French cooks have always been very proud
OF their profession, and with good reason
Mime. de Sevigne has related how Vatel, COW
cred with shame. committed suicide be-
cause the fish did not arrive in time for
one OF the grand dinners given by the Prince
de Conoe In honor Of Louis XIV. They may
even consider themselves one Of the factors of
civilization, for Brillat-Savarin, who, al
though staid lawyer, did not hesitate to
write two volumes on gastronomy, has said
In one Of his pages: Tell me what you eat,
and l will tell you who you are;" and some
body else has declared that the social condi-
ton Of people is determined by the quality
OF its cuisine. II this be so, the world is
deeply indebted to the French cordons-bleus.
The Car Alexander admitted that Riquette
and Careme, two famous Gallo cooks, taught
him how to eat. 1t is not surprising, therefore,
to hear the holder top sawyers Of the profess
sion claim that they have it in their power to
influence the course Of history. They hold
undisputed sway over the stomachs Of man.
kind, and the head is often ruled by the
paunch. 1t is a well-known fact that Napo-
leon was indisposed at Waterloo. And did
not Villars, interrupted in the midst of his
preparations, earnestly pray, in order to gain
time, that Marlborough might have an attack
OF coics The destiny of empires sometimes
hangs on the preparation Of a ragout. Tai
ieyrand thoroughly understood the import
apee Of 4 EQed dinner, and ths Mecee which