Lexington weekly intelligencer. (Lexington, Mo.) 1871-1887, 1885-11-28

IL dTt cut " lWO VI tuItc eSCS CoSh'
i. e., those only which are strong
enough, say lead pencil size. The
other cane or canes are cut back
to three eyes and are then called spurs.
On these spurs, canes for the following
years crop are grown, for the canes
that produced a crop one season, are
cut off the following year, new wood
being grown for every crop. During
the 3rd year. 3 or four canes are allow
ed to grow from the spurs and treated
like second years growth. In prun-
ming the 3rd years growth, canes are
left for bearing, and the others cut
back to spurs while the old cane is cut
off where it starts from the body of the
vine. The treatment in after years is
much the same, though somewhat more
laborious On strong vines the mum.
Der of bearing canes may be Increased
gradually to 3 and 4, and the length ct
each extended to 6 or feet. No fixed
rules can be given, as the treatment of
each vine must be in accordance with
its vigor, and each seasons growth
will tell the tale: whether properly
cared tor, or neglected, or overborne,
80 that even the tyro in grape growing
can soon learn what treatment is
necessary; and when the vine needs a
rest or stimulation, how to apply it.
SUMMER PRUNING.
This consists in pinching or break
ing off the tips of the young shoots on
which fruit is forming when they have
grown to or inches. Usually but
two punches are allowed to each shoot,
and those which have no fruit are rub
bed off entirely. BY this process the
size, quantity and quality of the fruit
can be controlled and improved.
| TYING UP THE VINE.
The canes, or bearing wood, should
be tied up in March, or April, before
the vine starts to growing, and should
be spread out on the trellis in order to
prevent the new growth from being
crowded. For ties, willow, or very
strong twine should be used,as it is i'm
portant to secure the canes in such a
manner that the weight of the fruit
and new growth does not break the
tie. During the growing season, the
Young canes and shoots should be tied
up as soon as they are long enough te
do so, or the wind may break them of
while they are yet tender. For this
} purpose twine, strips of rags, or paw
paw bark will answer.
TRELLIS
} Wire makes the best and cheapes
trellis. Number IL is commonly uset
but number 10 or number IL would b.
better. For convenience, trellis i
usually made feet high, but the high
er the better-for the grapes at least
Strong posts, say SKA inches and z fee
long, are put at the ends Of the rows
and after every third vine, usin,
smaller ones as supports between tn
other vines. The end posts should b.
we'll braced. The wires are put OF
with staples, but so that they can NOV
| freely in them, because the weight o
i the fruit and vines, together with hea
, and changes of temperature, cause tn
wires to lengthen, thus relaxing tn
tension, hence they must be draw
' tant every spring before tying up tn
canes. The easiest way to do this is t
! run the wire through the end posts
4 and wind it up on fiat piece of oal
wood about 10 inches long, 2 inche
wide and inches thick, the middl
sides being narrowed to II inches
starting at inches from the ends
. thus IA. Three strands of wire wi
answer, but four would be better
The lowest wire is put 6 inches farthe
from the ground than the distance be
tween the others.
VARIETIES.
For this section and for general ust
l would recommend, Telegraph, blacl
= very early; Concord, black; Marths
f white, early; Norton's, black; Elvir:
:, white, late.