Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-01-31


Terry, who has adapted the double dress
as the basis of nearly all her costumes;
the reintroduction Of the hip girdle and the
ribbon belt, tied in front, the ends reaching low
upon the middle of the skirt, nearly to its foot.
All these together with the pretty outside
(chatelaine) pockets suspended at the side, the
pulled elbow sleeve, tile BERTHE the pelerine
cape, the open heart-shaped bodice, and the
soft puff1ngs used instead of flounces. are frag-
ments possessing historic and pictured interest
and significance which have been taken from
their original environment and put to modern
uses. II any young lady wants q pretty
dress Of embroidered muslin, Of tinted cotton.
on linen batiste. she may alternate clusters of
fine upright tucking. with close insertion put
in lengthwise for the front of the skirt gather
the tracer edge it with fine plating, make
belted bodice. and place over 1t a broad soft
SASH tied in a huge bow, with long ends behind.
This is one. and very pretty form Of the pop
ular "housemaid," and it will be fashionable
during the coming summer.
SOME RECENT TOILETS
This has not been .'dressy" season. partly
because it has been a depressed" season in
business circles. partly because the fluctuations
OF the weather have created uncertainty in re-
CARDS to needs and possibilities Still there is
always plenty OF beautiful and costly dressing3if
one only happens to be in the right place to see
it. and 1t is this which must stand to represent
fashion; not the plain black or patChy. made
portion of the actual clothing worn by women.
noticeable dinner dress was Of thick
dull gold satin, made with very long
fuil-p!aited train and plain front. striped
with wide fine barbes of exquisite blade chan
lilly lace. Between the barbes were series of
heart-shaped leaves of embroidery executed in
chenille. shaded from pale gold to brown. The
sides of the skirt were faboted with lace. fine as
the barbes, carried back and tied over the
train. The bodice was draped with lace and
finS hnH lodi ri odn dxr-itl ,har
beads Opaque larger ones forming a necklace,
earrings aud comb. To the necklace superb
cross of diamonds was attached. The lady who
wore this dress carried transparent
fan Of black lace, which was a
dream of beauty. 80 fine and dainty
was it. the frame work was pure ivory, thin and
enriched with flies and delicate LEAKAGE in ia
panese gold. The dinner at which this was worn
was for eight persons, four of whom were ladies'.
All the toilets were handsome. One was short
dress of thick black velvet with heliOtrOpe satin
front, and vest embroidered with jet. Another
was of plush and satin in two shades of blue. the
basque of plush edged with pearls. and cream
lace vest the plush draped at the sides over the
satin front. and edged with cream lace. The
fourth toilet was composed of q princess train of
smOke-cOlOred velvet, over petticoat Of pink
satin and lace, and she wore cOrsage boquet of
roses, half red jacqueminOts, the other half pink
Catherine mermets).
At an afternoon reception stylish short
dress was of wine colored plush, with trimming OF
gray fox fur; and vest of gray satin. outlined
with fur. The hat was Of velvet matching the
dress. and was trimmed with gray feathers and
pOuf of cream duchesse lace. which was
garnet crown-shaped ornament. The lady wore
a set OF garnets as ornaments. Another dress
was of rock gray satin merveilleuX with velvet
trimmings. and vests contrasting with sleeve
less basque of steel netting. This also formed
the crown of the bonnet, over full upright
crown of satin. the velvet brim divided into
fun fin haiD fnrfb nr oho6t or
embroidered lace and butterfly of transparent
gauze with enaneled wings.
An elegant dress worn at a ball was Of ivory
white silk plush, lined with satin and trimmed
with cream lace and ostrich tips. The bodice
was very open and cut square, and the drapery
was caught up on one side with ropes of pearls.
smaller ones edgIng the bodice. lovely dress
worn upon the same occasion was of pale ash
gray silk. trimmed with opaleScent beaded en-
brOdery and lovely lace.
great many spangled tulle are seen, and
tulle sprinkled with pendant ornaments of
chenille. and. of course. sleeveless, the gloves
reaching nearly to the shoulders. Dancing
dresses are almost Invariably short, and while
TINS Is a great advantage to the wearer, de-
cidedly appropriate, If she is young, and adds
greatly to the enjoyment OF musical motion; 1t
also demands much care in the dressing of the
feet. Black shoes certainly do not look
well with short white satin and tulle
dresses, yet they are quite commonly
paid to the detail which renders the cos
tune harmonious. even by those who represent
taste, and to whom money Is no object.
mark similar to this was made to lady very
richly, almost too dantily. attired for the occa-
sion, at an evening reception which occurred
recently. Il used to be so particular about
my shoes, gloves, hats. furs, para
soils, and every detail of my dress,
down to my handkerchefs," she returned.
But have gotten bravely over it; it requires
sneak n q
period when dress is of supreme Importance is
very short; it rarely survives one year of mar
ried life. Look at me. l was obliged to wear
my wedding dress tonight because have not
cared to 90 TO the expense OF new evening
toilet, and hardly dare to move because we'll.
under the satin and lace are black shoes, and /
have so often criticised the wearing of black
shoes by Others with white satin dresses"
Few plain tulles are seen this season; they are
spotted, spangled or sprayed with silver or che
mile dots or leaves. with small pendant balls or
fruit Those are preferred that are dotted with
white chenille or silver; in colors they must be
accompanied by velvet bodice, the color of the
chenille; and so striking costume requires
beauty and jewels as fitting accomplishments
A much admired dress consists of sapphire
satin train, plain, but very bouffant at the top,
where it is lifted, and divided into two huge
bows by skilTull manipulation. A straight bod
Ice forms sort of jacket, and is edged with
large pearl beads. full lace skirt falls over a
front of sapphire blue plush, with tiger stripes
and white lights in it, divided into panels by
openings which disclose q satin petticoat ruff
fled with lace; around the waist in soft sash.
The neck is furnished with small spring collar,
which is edged with pearls, and covered with in
terror lace finish of the skirt. The full lace
fronts are, however, considered somewhat neg
lige; evening and dinner dresses are more fire.
quently made with open. heart-shaped, or very
deeply pointed bodices, upon which
lace, tulle, or embroidered trimmings are
draped The back of the skirt is often pulled
up and mounted in ridiculOusly shelf-like style
upon the bodice dropping below the protuber-
ance in perfectly straight folds. The height of
the shoulders and the straight lines, only broken
by this ungraceful attachment, make some very
fashionable women absurdly like old town
pumps with two handles and shelf for the
drinking cup.
The ''MatadOr' pocket, cut straight on line
with the waist, not rounded off at the corners,
and worn with full skirt and turn-down collar,
ribbon tor tie, and full straight, plated or
tucked skirt, is a charming costume for young
girls. The pocket may be made in velvet vel
veteen. plush or corduroy, and edged with mar
row gold or silver braid or beads. The skirt
may be thin cream wool or cotton. and the
skirt red. old blue or gray wool, plated or
finished with hem and tuck.
NEW STYLES N UNDERWEAR.