St. Paul daily globe., 1885-08-16
THE WOMAN'S GLOBE.
Women of the World Watched by Mil
liner-What the Fair Creatures
are Wearing.
Six Changes of Attire the Proper Thing
During Each Day Spent at Sum-
mer Resort.
Quaint Effects OF the Season--Dress.
making at n Small Cost--Use-
full Hints.
Household Suggestions--Mrs. Grun-
dy's ObservatfOns--Tea Table Cos
sip--Chit-Chat.
Summer Styles.

Summer Styles.
If woman rides and bathes daily, in ad-
dition TO the morning and afternoon lounges
and the evening waltzing. she can make six
changes of attire in the twenty-four hours
without being deemed especially frivolous.
The men who similarly devote themselves
10 their toilet are few. and belong 10 the
small contingent of dudes. They distinct
lively wear knickerbOckerS for lawn sports,
bangles with their bath rigs. big plaid suits
| for afternoon posing on Verandas. and high
black hats, double-breaSted frOck coats.
dark trousers and white gaiter tops in the
evening. No such criticism will apply TO
the women elsewhere than in the surf, for
their average of attTactiveness is high. The
public parlOr of a fashionable hotel on a
reasonably cool evening is 4 show-place
well worth attention. An hour is set apart
for dancing by the children. while the
adults assemble as spectators, either seated
around the sides of the room OF on the YER
anda at the doors and windows.
There are certain parts OF the attire which
should not be subject 10 the law of fashion
and change. Underwear. for example,
should simply cover the body. not enlarge,
depress OF compress it. The finest French
underwear, excepting skirts worn next the
dress. follows this rule. Even hens are not
allowed. and there are no gathers. The
| garment is curved in at the sides aud CEN
ter the edges are hand-embroidered and the
lit Is perfect.
~
Women who buy underwear made at slop-
shops simply because it is cheap without re-
gard to its form or style. sometimes wearing
it gathered in. sometimes loose, sometimes
Shaned can never have their dresses fitted
with precision or elegance.
The corset Is even more important: what
ever it is, it ought always to be Of the same
cut and style, the same depth over the hips,
the same lines enclosing the bust The
modern corset is anything but an object of
| terror. 1t yields a necessary support to the
soft and fieShy parts of wOman'S figure,
and serves as flexible frame upon which
| to build the dress. 1t is scientifically cut
and curved to the body, and supplied with
elastic sides or cores which adapt it TO deli
cate women and growing girls.
There are summer corsets Of a trans
| parent, lace-like fabric, traversed by slen-
der, plant lines of whalebone, forming the
frame, which are a luxury even to look
at, and may be worn on the hottest day with
ease and comfort. But there are still
straight, shapeless, heavily-weighted
stays" machine-made, coarsely corded
and charged with steel bars that quite alter
the figure of the wearer, who, perhaps,
thinks she is improved because she is mar
tyred in wearing them, or selects them be-
cause they are a few cents cheaper. This
is self-murder for less inducement than
would be accepted by the commonest as
sassin. and destroys the effect of the finest
costume.
The quaint effects of the season are pro-
uced by the straight skirts. the large hats
nd the big baby saSbes which look so Well
Il tall, sleuder girl, so out of place on
be short, stout girl at her side. The latter
was at her best in a kilt and jersey, with
SOFT sill1en folds laid close over the hips
and only knotted al the back or on the side.
The picturesque effects are produced by the
dasheS of astoniShingly bright cOlOr-the
nasturtiam red, the curTant color IN cOnnec-
ton with forest green or dark blue
and the gold, without a touch OF which
| in pale shade or tan, no costume seems
complete The more quiet effects are
produced by the two-toned style-that is,
two shades of one color, carried out in the
whole costume, with on'y the relief OF the
flowers or aigrette i'm the hat or bonnet, and
| the gloves, which are always in some deli
cate shade of ecru or tan. The most pOpu-
| lar combination Just now is is solid basque
of the darker shade, with a light draped
| skirt. StOckinette is the favor;e material
with woOlen skirts, and red, brown or blue.
with small metal buttons, is more worn
than any other color. The brown is usually
put with twine color the red with pink or
a lighter shade of red, and the blue with a
| lighter shade of blue or cream white
| Skirts differing from the bOdiceS have be-
|
skirts, covered with from five to nine
| lounces, are worn with beaded cuiTass
basques, pointed back and front. but short
and often cut in two points at the back. so
that the bouffant effect of the skirt comes
between. and reaches nearly 10 the waist
\ line. The sleeves are distinct and are OF
beaded lace 10 or just over the elbow. An
other method employed is to arrange a
! Spanish Jacket over a full skirt of silk
muslin or striped tissue. the sleeves being
full, straight and slightly gathered into a
deep cuff of thin, high-colored silk, covered
with lace.
"Fussiness" in great degree marks the
difference between what is called the
good" and bad" style. 1t furnishes a
test of the kind and amount of training a
woman has received. and her power of APP
propriating il and putting it 10 its best use
| There are fuSSy men. and every woman has
a horror Of them; but they ara less numer-
| Gus than the fussy women, because their
more practical lives rub il OF knock il out
OF them. But il is better to have il refined
or trained out of them; and this has been
! the case with two classes of women. One
class has ceased TO be fuSsy because il is
bad FORM" the other because il is unpro-
| fessioRal and unbuSinesS-like, and expert
ence has taught them that success in active
| life depends on a clear head and unon hold
ing ones forces well in hand for real work.
not eXpendng them upon imaginary lions
or Self-c;eaIed hindranceS. This does not
mean that the dress and habits Of women
| should become ike those of men: that they
should model themselves upon rigid lines
and never depart from them. On the con
trary. grace and delicacy and certain frou
frou effects IN attire are not 10 be mderes-
| tinated but for practical purposes they are
! less important than distinctions of outline.
and correspondence of one part of the dress
to another.
DressmahiuE.
Now, when so many dry-goods houses