The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1885-07-09
Sailing over Summer Seas.
A VOYAGE TO THE COAL REGIONS OF CA

Of Cape Breton are familiar to some of our
readers who have gone down to the sea in fish
ing crafts. Others we advise to consult an atlas
or chart before proceeding farther. 1t will
be seen that Cape Breton, part of the Prov
ince of Nova Scotia, is separated from the
main land by strait called the Gut of Canso-
agreat thoroughfare for shipping, and through
which the Boston steamers pass on their pas
| sages to and from Pictou and CharIottetOwn. 1t
will be further seen that the island of Cape
Breton is divided into two islands by Bras d
Or Lakes; that these lakes branch out in all di-
rections, and that the surrounding country
Is mountainous. Vessels pass into the lakes
through canal with single lock at St. Peters,
on the Gut of Canso side, and thence may sail
northeast into the Atlantic, there being two
outlets, the Great Bras dor and Little Bras d
Or-the name signifying Arm of Gold. About
midway of the Gut of Canso on the Cape Bre-
ton side is Port Hawksbury, and directly oppo-
site is Port Mugrave, the terminus of the rail
way from Halifax. At the former place the
Worcester landed some 60 of her passengers at
10 a. M, June 23d, and they and their baggage
completely covered the small and somewhat
dilapidated wharf. Here all had to undergo the
ordeal of the Custom House. Mr.. j. c. Bouri-
not, the inspector a son of Marshall Bourinot,
the Collector) proved however, to be active,
obliging and expert, well as a good judge of
character, and soon hundred or more of trunks
were inspected and chalked. One Young lady
who was taking to her parents in the country
box of tropical fruit had, however, to make
visit to the Custom House and pay two dollars
duty.
The Bras dor Lake Steam Navigation Co.
had recently changed their schedule and no one
seemed to know with certainty what time the
boat would leave for Sydney; but everybody
was sure no dinner could be had on board. and
so after resting awhile on the wharf it was de
cided to invade the town and Obtain Il midday
meal. There quite number of public
| houses to select from, but we chose the Scotia
House, quaint wooden building Of the English
cottage order of architecture. and were not sor-
~ that we did So Mrs. Balm, the landadv
could only promise US, as there but little
time 10 spare, what at home would be called IA
picked-up dinner and we seated ourselves
while our hostess was preparing the meal in a
pleasant sitting room overlooking the water.
told the hours, and homemade rugs covered
the floor. Dinner was served in snug little
room, with the beams showing overhead and Il
white sanded floor and the meal, though plain,
was substantial and good and our hostess was
kindness itself. Here we met and parted with
our fellow vovagers. Prof. Clarke wife and
daughter, of Providence, r. L., who were to
start the next morning for another part of the
| Province.
We realize at last that we are in foreign
country. The system which at home makes
| travelling so easy, and does not require the
traveller to look after his baggage. is wanting
here. You must keep an eye on your trunks
when changes are made to prevent them being
left behind or sent astray, and an Old fellow
on the wharf gave us quite lecture because
our baggage was not labelled with name and
destination. People move slowly and speak
| slowly. The Scotch element predominates, and
''the Gaelic Is generally spoken. II is Ian
guaSe of soft sbant sounds Judging from
what we heard of it; and we We're constantly
reminded, no less by the people than by the
scenery. of William Blacks novels. We did
not once hear the pipes, it is true but there
were McPhersons and the numerous other
Macs, salmon and salmon fisheries, and Castle
Dare, the home of Macleod, might have stood
on any one the bold shores The scenery, too,
answered to the descriptions in Mac Leod Of
Dare: Then the wild coast around them,
with its splendid masses of granite, and III.
spare grass a brown-green in the warm sun,
and its bays of silver sand, and its sea birds
u,l,;t M H.,
over the blue. :. And could anything have
been more magical than the beauty of that
evening after the storm had altogether died
away? The red sunset sank behind the dark
oIive-green of the hills; pale clear twilight
took its place. and then the stars began to
gfmmer on he distant shores, and the grew
dark; and then, still later on, a wonderful
radiance rose behind the low hills and across
the waters came belt of glimmerng light as
the white moon rose slowly into the sky.
There was an odor of new-mown hay in The
air. Far away they could hear the murmur-
ing of the waves around the rocks"
This is a sufficiently accurate description. and
IL better one than could write, of some of the
scenes presented we steamed through the
Bras dor Lakes. But we have not yet taken
leave of Port uaWksbury. We had embarked
on the steamer Marion, and about half past
two P. NJ. she started off with so little warning
that the writer and the gang-plank came on
board together. We steamed across to Port
Mulgrave to take passengers arriving by the
Halifax train, and then, going part of the way
over waters traversed in the Worcester, head
ed for st. Peters. As entered the canal
supper was served, and salmon Just from the
water, capitaly cooked served on hot plates,
proved for the nonce more attractive than the
scenery, of which we had glimpses however, as
we ate what some enthusiastic New Workers
pronounced the best salmon they had ever eat
en-. word here as to the steamer. The Mar
ion was formerly New York excursion boat.
and is admirably fitted for summer travel on
these lakes. The only fault we have to find is
with the spring locks on the stateroom doors.
Leaving my key on the inside | found myself
locked out; but the steward sent a small bov
on to the hurricane deck, and there he dropped
through ventilator and then opened the door.
AS | made no notes | am somew hat at IA loss
now to recall the scenes and incidents of the
trip, save in "a general way. At one place
Il good sized church where the Indians of
the island go to be married. As for the
scenery | shall not attempt to describe it.
At SUNSET we were opposite East and West
Bays, and after various estimates as to the dis
lance between the two shores the captain was
called upon, and said it was fifty miles. And
here we may introduce Charles Dudley War
ner's description of the Bras dor.
The Bras dor is the most beautiful salt
water lake | have ever seen and more beau
tiful than we had imagined body of salt
water could be. If the reader will take the
map he will see that two narrow entrances, the
Great and Little Bras dor enter the island of
Cape Breton, on the rugged northeast coast
above the town Of Sydney, and flow in, AT
length widening out and occupying the heart of
the island. The water seeks out all the low
places, and ramities the interior, running
away into lovely bays ard lagoons, leaving
slender tongues of land and picturesque is
lands, and bringing into the recesses of the
land, to the remote country farms and settle
ments, the flavor of salt, and the fish and
mollusks of the briny There is very
little tide at any time, that the shores are
clean and slightly for the most part, like those
of fresh-water lakes. 1t has all the pleasant
| nose of fraSh.wator lax wi oil tho oJv.n-