Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1885-10-28
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
WOODEN HATs-BONNETs OF WOOII-HIGH
TRIMMED BONNETS-HATS HIGHER-Cos-
TUMES-MATERIALS.
[For the SPECTAToR.l

IFor the SPECTAToR.1
In millinery, there is a marked promi-
nence of wool. Dealers seem to vie with
one another in breaking through all form
er etiquette and the wearer of wool-hat
or bonnet has now a look of satisfaction
unattainable by one who displays the more
common place attractions of richer goods.
The whole thing ia entirely Of wool, but
again we observe those mixtures of diverse
material now so dear to the fashionable
heart. Jersey webbing is much liked and
lies plainly over the frame as foundation
for brocaded or plain woods or something
richer: brocaded wool can be pulled or lie
plain and can be added to by plain wool or
velvet, or plain pulled wool can serve as a
prelude to brocade, etc. By that ct cgterd,
please understand very much which can
not express. Hash things as much as you
will, you scarce can slash them so reckless
ly but what fashion has been before hand;
has done the same and beckons you to fol-
low. Pile on the front trimming higher
and yet higher: you scarce can get high
enough, and should matters go on as they
promise to do, the rivalry between Mary
Anderson at the Star and Margaret Mather
at the Union Square theatre, may bring
about complications. Everybody wants to
see that everybody may give an opinion as
to which is the prettier and more talented,
but how can anybody see when everyDody's
bonnet trimming is in the way. | say
drumming not "bonnet." The bonnet
itself is modesty itself, but a modesty quite
lost by the piled on and fierce bristling
front garniture, where stickery things stick
out and up, and oven claws of birds come in
as seasonable additions. Hats are certainly
not immodest, yet as certainly can they not
I II 4Loo how
deplorably high, yet reach not always up to
those irrepressible. front fixings. We are
threatened likewise, with new bonnet
more formidable than those seen for many
long day-a poke with high crown, wide,
high f14ring brim and close-ftting between;
material put on plainly and ribbon trim
ming in the depressed centre. 1t is sea-
son of
Striped are the woods; the silks are strip
ed. Stripes invade the dignity of velvets,
and satins simmer through bars running
lengthwise. Patterns of diverse nature and
such as are wont to be scattered over the
surface, now follow stiff lines and travel
compactly up and down, leaving plain in
tervals. Thus on rich goods, where the
headings of the day find chiefly room for
display, we see traceries of palm leaves and
similar patterns, set closely and forming
columns; SO with the boucle loops which
play very important part in fall dress
goods and so with bourette dOttings.-I
Stripes are also produced by the bringing
together of different materials; woods are
varied by lines of plush, velvet or MORE and
here we recognize what is notable feature,
a constant putting together of silk and wool.
Effect of color in these striped goods, seems
more or less pronounced in ratio to the
width. Thus where an extreme limit of
three inches is reached, contrasts are care
fully avoided; uniformity of color is the |
rule or at best, some slight transition, as
for example, from deep brown to shade |
slightly less dark. But where narrow |
stripes prevail, so likewise may prevail a |
reckless abandon ofhue. red, blue, orange,
green and any other shade can alternate, and |
glowing side by side, give that redundance |
of coloring which does not offend when in
right disposition. Pretty for children and |
combining prettily with something sober
for their elders. Kindred in effect, come
mosaic woods; an off shoot from the crazy
quilt idea, and showing the hap hazard |
mingling of shape and color characteristic |
of this modern insanity while equally bright
but in opposite style, come woods wherein
are stamped large roses and their leaves in
natural gayety of tone. To know that
COMBINATIONS
come in with new prestige, one need only
look for moment at the costume depart
ment of such house as Lord and Taylor.
A legitimate result of the bringing forward
of rough or pronouncedly striped goods,
manifestly unsuitable to whole dresses Yet
there is an elegance in the plain outfit, a
peculiar style as well; we have not forgot
ten it and the two schools will have votaries
in equal number. Great is the chance for
good; great the opportunity for evil In
choosing, look, if not into your own heart,
at least into your looking glass and endeavor
to see yourself as others see you. Do not ,
add by rough material where you should
subtract, nor subtract where you could easily (
add an appearance of plumpness; the next {
best thing to reality. Velveteen is in great |
demand and each season now, we grow more t
how much ''modern improve =
ment" has done for US in this line of dress a
fabric. Especially sought for is the arcadia a
velveteen which with rich, soft surface and
brought out in all stylish colors, whether
for day or evening, is a rival and constant
substitute for velvet. Worn by onr hest
people, it has grown standard and, wear aft. q
ter year, retains it's high position. A fina =
grade of velveteen is far better purchase L
han cheap velvet; is handsomer, more dur +
lble and thoroughly genteel. r
THINGS ARE MIXED.
There is much novelty in what has been
written of, but perhaps, yet greater novelty a
rises from putting together of diverse ma t.
erial. Too much stress cannot be laid up "
n this idea. :. 1t is leading thought and, '
s such, brings about peculiar prestige. As 81
/, fore shadowing, let me quote a lady seen
o-day on Broadway, who with handsome
ilk costume, wore mantelet of striped o
,ool trimmed with fringe of wooden beads t.
D match In some of the expensive i'm
orted dresses again, we observe cotton
anime and cotton lace in combination n