Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-08-29

Dresses Passed Down from Generation
To Generation-What il to be Seen at
She Exposition of ISS5-COming styles
Foreshadowed.
From Our Own Correspondent
ANTWERP, August 25.
The blending of youth and age is perhaps
the most striking feature fthese modern days;
there is no longer anything old, there is no
longer anything young. Children know more
than their parents and age counts for nothing
unless 1t is antique enough to be a curiosity.
There is nothing which strikes one with q
keener sense of disappointment than this alb
sence of the venerable that we look for, where
age, and great past, had commanded rever-
entail respect. 1t is something like rouge, and
ornaments and affectation of youthfulness,
with the gray hairs and bent forms of a veneer
able grandmother. And it Is sometime before
We can reconcile ourselves with the change, or
understand that 1t Is not affectation-not age
trying TO conceal its wrinkles, but new growth
a veritable birth of the active, growing, enter
prising present at the hearth-stone of the past
Antwerp is at once both young and old. A
maritime city in communication with every
nation over the face of the earth, it realizes its
position and proudly accepts its responsible
ties Its splendid system of quays, the money
spent on public improvements on the making
and maintenance of Its miles of park and gar
den and boulevard render it one of the most
charming of residential cities, as il is one of the
most active and growing from a business point
OF view. In many ways it could well teach New
York a lesson, Of thoroughness in regard to
cleanliness, for example; and in the wise and
liberal use of the city's money for substantial
public purposes.
pie in detail, one finds differences which are not
so apparent on the surface. An Antwerp lady
going 10 market or to make a call, looks a
New York lady might under similar circum-
stances; there is hardly any variation in the
costume, little in the manner or appearance.
The only difference perceptfble. and this to an
experienced observer. absence
which is so obvious in the dress and habits of
New York women. The latter always seem to
b trying to look equal to the occasion, or to
their own idea of what is expected of them. No
other women anywhere give this impression
men, and their neighbors of Antwerp They
will go out in the morning, and Hven make
call, in cotton dress, and dress
more for convenience, less for fashion. This is
particularly the case with Antwerp ladies,
vino, however, in their own way, and according
70 their own ideas, dress with great taste and
elegance. They are very decided in regard to
what is coqnHne fIR. and will not adopt style
mat Is vulgar or pronounced, though it should
not the authority in Antwerp that it is in
America, ana especially in New York. 1t ex-
10 its novelties bur the desire for these is sec
ondary to the respect for their own traditions,
and the possession of that which Is permanent
and part OF the heritage of the family.
THE ANTWERP LADY AT HOME.
Fashion in America is made, and almost con-
trolled, by American girls, who, if they do not
work for a living, have no duties, and are al
most always upon the street. Abroad, girls are
thorOughfare, and never without a chaperon.
Their dress is modest, quiet and designed not to
attract attention, while that of older women is
uniformly sober-tOO much so, for il becomes
absolutely commonplace. Yet the quiet rather
dowdy woman in black, or gray, or brown, is
perhaps the pOsSeSSOr of stores of household
linen and beautiful lace and has old Jewels and
carved furniture, every piece of which Is treas
ure one would give anything reasonable or un-
no Anfu fhnr
and daughter stay at home to take care of these
things, to acquire the knowledge of the duties
OF housewife and perform them; and they are
not afraid of undertaking any duty that comes
within the sphere of the true housewife.
natin. tha III H a. 91te anu su9Ora
of social life, upon which the American woman
lays so much stress, to daily household Occu-
patlons, and the claims of home, husband and
children. exercises an enormous influence upon
The habits OF dress, and restraints the tendency
to freo1ent changes in fashion The most i'm
por' mt part of fashionable dressing with us Is
T<the street. The important part with an Ant
werp lady is to be in possession of certain ele-
gancies of costume. particularly laces and furs
which will give distinction to her dresses OF
ceremony for the house. Fine lace is the pride
OF the Antwerp lady, the modern machine
made limitations she stigmatiseS as trash. And
this Is one OF the reasons why the true Antwerp
Ian looks down upon Paris novelties. She
acknowledges they are effective, but they have
no permanent value and are possible to every
one. Lace is valuable family heirloom and is
only left to the member of family who will
take care oft.
LACE AS AN HEIRLOOM.
Lace in quantity is never seen in the street in
Antwerp, unless it is worn by English or Amer.
leans, for no Antwerp lady would wear her rich
lace in the street or allow herself to appear i'm a
cheap imitation. These rules still hold good
though there is less rgidity than formerly, and
young girls wear contrasts and their mamas
designs in form and fabric (which they would
nestle and social habits however hold good
and are maintained as a matter of pride by the
only child. and would naturally have inher-
tied magnificent collection of lace gathered
To 6y sSe a shs not
against the necessary condition imposed OF
learning how TO mend and actually make lace,
So as To be able TO keep it in perfect condition
Her mother did not force her but simply told
her that the lace in that case would
some member of the family able and willing to
'entertain" and care for il. This threat was
sufficient to induce the young lady to fulfil her
mothers wishes, and she is now not only the
pOssessor of one of the finest private collections
OF lace in Antwerp, both modern and antique
but can repair any of IL so that it is exactly the
same as before. Yet this lady recently papered
and painted two rooms with her own hands at
q est Oh nileen francs for materials. because
her husband To the cost OF house painter and
decorator, who had estimated the work and
material at 20 francs.
A lace dress, made in Antwerp is a very
Desirable possession Ii is not cut up aud wasted
from the piece, as with US: but an accurate
pattern Is sent and the dress is outlined from it.
and the pattern wrought in according to cost
The lace pieces for bonnets, fans, parasols and
every article of the toilet for which lace is used
are all made and finished upon the edge in the
same way. and are beautiful and permanent
possessions The cost for a real lace dress is not
more than one covered with imitation lace is
with Us; but the difference in elegance and
nnish, In permanent beauty, cannot be put into
words. IL Is a difference in the actual morality
and esthetic influence of q lifetime. An Ant
werp lady OF the middle, or business class
looks forward To the acquisition of such
q dress a New York lady of the
same condition in life might to the acquisition
of a Sealskin cloak. But the Antwerp lady
more frequently gets the dress than her New
York sister the clq6k; for the reason probably
that less money is~spent in Antwerp on trifies
and on the costly articles of street attire bon
nets. parasOls and above all, gloves, which are
such an important and costly item in America
Besides, the men know that lace dress means
something, IL Is equivalent To their dress-coat
1t Will be worn at the great family reunions
and anniversaries, over all black, over color
with silk sleeves under the lace, with lace
sleeves alone, in short, with slight additional
great economy Us well Us elegance.
WHERE ECONOMY IS ADVISABLE
But great care is exercised in regard to over
dressing. The standing of business men is not
helped by display, or an exhibition of extrava-
gance on the part of themselves. or their wives
On the contrary. living in a house beyond their
means, or indulgence in unusual IuXuries a
gadding wife, or idle, much dressed daughters
would seriously compromise them; while in.
Nrnf rot Oh. a..r.f sfxrNt a.