The Indianapolis sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis, Ind.) 1880-1904, 1885-04-12

set up on the top OF the croWn-in loops
after the Alsatian fashion, the folds pinned
down with small gold pins with tiny ham
mered heads or acron tops in Miniature. The
interior OF the brim Is faced with q scant
putting of soft plain silk. the tint OF the rib
bon ground, bat there is no other trimming
except the strings which may be velvet and
tie ut the side.
CHANCES FOR oREeISALLrY.
There are possibilities in the materials pro-
vided this season for lovely composition In
millinery: but they are expensive and the
popular method is 10 pile up quantity Of
cheap and snowy bits OF material and TIN
selled ornaments and call it fashionable"
or stylish" and then il is swallowed with
out question, like pill in q capsule.
In the way of original combinations moth
ing is prettier than pale shades of ecru aud
fine gold or ecru and white. Ecru is rage
sgain, and Ii is much associated with high
color; bat ii is much more delicate and ar
tistic ia combination of soft tints without
any effect of contrast. The gold too, that Is
used for the finer kinds of fabric is very diff
ferent from the ordinary put into cheaper
manufacturers The first is real Japanese
gold thread twisted round base OF silk, cot
ton or linen the other are mere threads OF
bsser metal which tarnish Immediately and
spoil the articles to which they are applied.
a novelty introduced last season but wide
ly populsrized this spring. consists OF
open mesh material in pale ecru tints upon
which designs are printed In soft old colers-
qsaint hersldic devices. 1t is fine canvass
grenadine known as etamine, and appears
largely in handkerchiefs and scarfs the
shields, borders and lines, dots or stripes fat
and representing tapestry or crossstitch.
These are used for the trimming OF hats a1d
bonDets-the scarfs for the former. the baud.
kerchiefs for the lstter-the prsttiest simply
pinned on and left in soft folds aud bows
without any addition OF wings or aigrettes
or pompons or hideous punches of mixed
flowers with gold or green metallic grass.
FEATURES IN DESIGN AND DECORATION.
The trinity which Is found in nature and
underlies all art is conspicuous in design
this yesr. Instead of single dots we have
them in threes; we have the new ordinary
clover leaf pattern in outline on the new
toulsrds, three small rings interlocked or
three tiny feathers, stiff aud prim, set up
like Prince of Wales's plume. Sometimes
three half moons will overlap each other, or
trife effect be given to q minute flower, its
leaf and bud passed through q ring.
Round figures are also in great vogue, some
In outline, come filed, some half solid, tue
other half traced in fret or lace work, and
others outlined or interlocked. The wafer
patterns have mainly disappeared. The
figures are smaller, show less of the con.
trasting color, and are In finer lines. The
immense detached figures of last year have
womsn's dresses. Manufacturing az the
rose or tulip might be, each one said: Look
at nee, ;" and the whole effect was noisy and
distracting. Dressmakers, too, were much
embarrassed by them, finding il impossible
to adapt them to the fitted basques tight
sleeves and narrow backs-which still pre-
vail and cut into petal and tendril in q mer-
CHESS manner. Figures are detached and
somewhat large upon China grapes intended
for house dresses bat the colors are very
soft, the shading delicate, and the designs
do not consist of one flower, but of a small
group or spray. Moreover they are not cut
up into basoues, but are MAIDS into Vatican
house and tea gowns with the long lines and
loose plat in the back and lace cascsded in
front. Greek designs OF the particular form
OF hoDeysuckle which is sc familiar in Greek
art and scroll patterns, appear in ribbons
and particularly upon the etamine fabrics
used as oraperiee with plain materials
There's not much discrimination in this ar
rangement. II is not Greek meeting Greek
but Greek hobnobbing with Roman
and Egyptian, and all classed by polite and
well read sellers as medieval"
One hard aud unbecoming fashion has
been discontin ued-at least abroad 1t never
did ind much favor except with those who
are bound to copy any mode, no matter how
absurd, which they are told is the latest 10
style or fashion. Ii is that of leaving the
edge OF the dress next the skin without the
soft Intervention of lace or tulle. There is
perhaps one woman or young girl in an
hundred thousand who eau stand this close
contact with hard, dark and unsympsthstic
materials. but not one who Ia not improved
by lighter lines and gentle influence next
the skin.
HOW SPRING GOWNS ARE MADE.
The Worth costumes which have been seen
this Spring are made without draosry or
looping The skirts hang in folds At the back
over q very moderate tournure which is re
movable and consists of q small hair cushion.
or 'matfr ss' az il is sometimes called. for
cloth end heavy elk, or a light spriog "im
proven" buttoned into the back OF ths
tiounced petticoat for lighter dresses.
A combination costume in plain smoka
and velvet fgnered wool shows perfectly
plain skirt which hangs in large folds at the
osck and has no oruameniatOn except
stIsight eide panels of the figured msteriais
enclosed in fves in stripes OF velvet the same
shade as the figures. The high waist and
sleeves are OF the figured material q s Eiss
bodice OF plain velvet completing the COS
tune.
A dress of ecru vicuna is embroidered all
over with shaded leaves In brown chenille
and finished with a little Persian jacket OF
soft, fine, silk plush in medium shade OF
the brown.
The old fashion is revived OF sleeves differ.
ing Ia material from tho dress. and very
siyllsh costumes are made OF brocadsd velve.
teen with pointed bodice OF plsated surah, 4
beaded piast on and a strip OF the surah GOV.
cred with the beading let in as an insertion
into he slesves Of brocAded velvetssn the
length OF the arm.
The late textures snd designs ia the Non.
o8riel ave go rich without being heavy aud
have 80 much the appearance Of sils
velvet that they can be and are
worn by the most iastidious. while thr
PLAIN ere especially desirable for msKing ~
as skiTts aud with wool because more ssf-
viceshle and less susceptible 10 the indueacs
OF weather than silk velvet
A DREss OF BLACK sURAH
Mounted on thin txillsd silk lining has
pleaupg round the bottom a straight fol
back very slightly dTaOed &C the sides; and
front draped scrOss in irregular folds. %