Morning journal and courier., 1885-10-20
Paris Fashions in Jewelry.

The Paris letter of the Manufacturing Jeweler says: sThe fashion for trinkets, which may be sewn, not pinned on, in creases every day. Many of the jewellers here make great point of them, and they are exhibited on bands of velvet, white, scarlet, blue, pale yellow, etc., laid flat on the window board. Single leaves, flowers insects, made fiat as possible, and composed of small diamonds set in silver, are the favorites, but little gold roses and violets, and leaves of different kinds are to be had also. When the latter are used they are not generally mixed, but are of pliques are chosen of various forms; leaves alternating with insects, or insects with flow CTS.
 "Gold brooches in all sorts of rather sim pie, uncomplicated forms are in high favor They seem cut out of the solid metal, and hardly chased at all. The simplest of all is the cravat bow, made in the shape and size of gentleman's white tie. Far prettier are the leaves-maple, plane, ivy, and vine roses, single peoples, pansies, narcissus and geranium flowers. The peoples may be made with black stanens tipped with diamonds A gold thistle enclosing ball of white this tle-down sparkling with diamonds is a very effective brooch. Some of the leaf brooches have tiny jeweled flower growing from the stalk and resting upon the leaf itself; others, such as the trefoil, have an heraldic rose in the center of each leafet-not lying upon it, but sunk in the gold itself. A small dia- mond fly, with a ruby head, is also used to brighten up plain gold leaf or flower.
 ''The Maltese cross is another fashionable shape. It is to be seen plain or chased, or tyxyith nr al Inff fa1 hara and there with tiny flies, and with or with out pearl or diamond in the center of the roses. Coming back to brooches more am pie in construction, here are plain gold discs with single stone or pearl in the center. and another without any such addition, the marks of the hammer still on the surface Square plates of metal with one irregular side are ornamented with flowers and seeds of the Japanese type, in very bright enamel with perhaps small diamonds, turquoises or rubies to form the petals of the flowers. ''The sign board brooch is new, fashion able model Whatever the rest may be, the foundation is always short, upright bar with a second longer one set at right angles to it, the enclosed angle being ornamental in different ways, sometimes with medieval scroll, or else white horse, a swan or other bird or beast, of the kind usually chosen by village inn-keepers for the sign of this hos telry. The bar may also be used as hook NAOh0OA oO iAhiAto CAiO ACooCAa ol O ShIlSGldA name, the words Noel, 'Paques,' etc., etc., the letters being always graduated in size. "Oxidized silver is in more request just now than it has been for some time. Brooch es in the shape of nursery pins, or single bars, are made of it, the former with one or two stones of different colors fixed to the upper side, the latter tipped at either end with garnet or rubies; heavy rococo brooches also representing spray of bramble, the leaves and stems of which are in silver and the fruit in enamel. Such brooches are use- full for morning wear with very simple dress es, or for shawl pins.
 "The great novelty in the way of oxidized silver trinkets is the Egyptian bangle, con- sisting of fine wire cjrclet, from which de- bends an oblong amulet, partly filled up with what appears like an hieroglyphic, and on close inspection turns out to be an eye with tear in it. This bracelet is supposed to be charm against any species of evil. It is made in gold as well silver, and is really very pretty and artistic.
 t'Rows of curiously marked pebbles are worn as necklaces and good shows are made of them by the imitation shops-for, as the reader doubtless knows by experience, the French law obliges jewellers who deal in spu- rious gold and gems to post up the fact on their shop fronts, so that paste shall not be purchased by the unwary in lieu of dia- monds, or plated gold pass muster for solid metal"