The Indiana State sentinel., 1885-06-10
FASHION as IT FLIES.

Summer c. stumes - Graduating Gowns
Fancies aad Suggestions.
In inexpensive summsr costumes are
but soft and delicate mousselaine de lsine,
the front arranged in a ssries of founcss
which are first cut into deep points, edged
with narrow lace, and then pleated up;
these are called Vsndyke founces. Above
this is drsped very long redingote known
as the "houppelande" by the French. This
is made of mousselaine de lsine, which is
printed in small gray designs scattered over
its surface. Lace and ribbon garniture trim
this overdress, which does not Join 10 front,
but opens widely from the neck, disclosing
pretty vest, and also the multitude of
pointed fiounces upon the skirt. This red
ingote model or riding coat was very popu
lar last season In Paris
For tie summer there are very pretty
dresses of black suIah, with q fan apron
edged with wide lace, and some rUffles of
lace or Of gurah st the foot, or the skirt and
oveTskirt ere made Of stripes of SATIN aud
MORE, while the basque ie of plain surah.
The latter is an economical dress as 1t doss
NOT require lace for trim ming. Very rich,
black dresses for the summer are made of
skirt while the overdTess is made Of lace,
either entirely Of piece lace or else of lace
fcuucts formed into le~ ~etbwise stripes that
alternate with bands of plain Grape or wat
cred silk. These Grape and lace dresses take
the place OF the brocaGed grenadines form.
erly used, while beaded grenadine is now
emf loyed ss parts Of combination black
dIesses.
Cream YAK lace dresses are made OF raw
silk. with loops of MORE and velvet ribbon;
they are very stylish and look cool and IN.
common; they are entirely Of lace over silk.
B aids and galloons, woven, embroidered
and brocaded, continue in vogue. They ere
arranged around the lower edge of b9sQuss,
vt the wrists or sleeves and extending up the
seam, ss border cf skirts aud overskir;s,
willis the most rich and striking are used to
defire panels and tabliers, and for ornament
ing wrappings OF all shapes
pretty change easily afforded to those
who already possess dress of plain white
yelling of cashmere is the purchase OF sb0ut
five yards of double width goods, matching
the hue and fabric of tie skirt portion, but
embroidered or brocaded with small dots or
other figures in mauve, pale blue, bro gn, &c.
Tire costume as o whole, will be rich gnd
dainty one, while the cost of the raw ma r.
al for apron overdress and bodice, or long
polenaise, will really be very little.
In defiance of all novelties that have been
introduced since its first appearance, the pol.
onaise is still far from bsing abandoned.
PTobs bly, it never will be abandoned, but
will continue and furnish material for fancy
to exercise Itself upon, and produce numbsr-
less ingenious diyersities from one well
known form. But it is no longer an ordi1'
ary commonplace polonaise, buttoned dow1
the MIDDLE of the front, and occasional y
varied by being open below the belt. 1t has
developed into complicated garment, soma
az fha afdau inn limo Qt
the right side and short at the left, at times
dTeped most profusely, and ct others entirely
deprived of all back breadths.
GRADUATING GOWNS.
The dresses made for graduates are really
more simple than those to be worn by misses
who are not vet prepared to leave school,
and DemoIest gives som practical suggestions
as to how such dresses ought to be made t0at
can be very easily carried out by the eco-
nomical home dressmaker.
The round skirt is favored when tucked up
half way, the back straight and full, the front
covered with an apron drapery and the bod
ice slightly full or tucked belted in. This
general design affords opportunity for varia-
ton. The tucks may be alternRted with fine
insertion and the drapery and bodice made
of Deedlework entire, or instead of the tucks
the lower pert of the skirt may be covered
by deep, scant hounce OF needleTork sur
mounted by one or two others at the bacE,
basque and apron of sll-over embroidery
completing n dress which looks and is really
made entirely of needle work.
Dresses OF light woods and tinted cotton or
linen fabrics can be made up in the same
way or they may be covered 10 the waist
with marrow graduated rufIles. This latter
style Is we'll adapted to tall, slender girls,
and it sheuld be accompanied by gathered
waist. open. V shaped, and edged With ruff
fies Of muslin and interior OF valenoiennes
lace; sleeves 10 match. A tucked waist
should not be put with ruffl I'd skirt, or vice
versa, but among the prettiest and finest,
though simplest looking dresses, are those OF
fine India muslin covered with exquisite
tucking from hem to waist aud lengthwiss
upon bodice and sleeves
With these thin dresses much care should
be taken in the selection OF undergarmeDts,
for those next tn the dresses show through
and either spoil or enhance the effect. So
the ht and material must be just exactly
right, Jenny Juns says that independent
bustles, or improvere, as they are wrongly
called, should Bever be worn with straight,
oil round skirts or with gathered tucked
skirts or skirts that are ruffled all the way
up. or with any skirts in fact. that have no
back drapery and hang the same from the
top to the bottom. full drspery and bonf-
fsnt effect ct the top is necessary to conceal
the protuberance, which otherwise looks
like huge covered but not concealed wart
below the waist line, and often moves about
in disacreeable manner, as il endowed with
life. Two white skirts are of course necss.
cary with these white dresses, and ths under
one of these should be founced at the back
to the waist snd made of sitter muslin
than the outer one; this will give all the
fuliness required and regulate the dress skirt,
sffording the support it needs without ine-
quality or disturbance.
The under bodice, too, should bs very nice
and fine. Some are formed OF the sl-over
lace and tucking in lawn, while others are
Of plain goods and lace on Hamburg inser-
tions.
VERY PRACTICAL NOVELTY
is the new velvet ribbon bow attached to q
clasp pin. These bows come in all OF the
popular shades, and are extremely servioea-
bic as q gsrniture. A lady has only to pin
and unpin them to apply them to any toilet
that may please her fancy. They come in
sets Of SIX in box. There sreseveral kinds.
esch very stylish and 'Frenchy." For
dressy toilets in light materials, they are ex-
actly the thing needed.
Arrasene embroidery makes rich and