Weekly graphic. [volume] (Kirksville, Adair Co., Missouri) 1880-1949, 1885-05-15
Tho rerfumer's Art.

Musk, the genuine grain from the
musk deer, is now worth its weight IN |
gold, so scarce as it become, the little
animal from which it is obtained having |
been very nearly eXtermin ated from its
Asiatic haunts. A full grown musk
deer will yield about an ounce of the
grains. which are found in the abdo-
men. The grains are no larger than a
pea, and some Of them are as small
as pins head. The musk is sold in
the market in the pods or sacs in
which it is found. but is frequently
adulterated So many of the deer are
killed before arriving at maturity that
the average musk bag imported, either
Chinese or Russian, will uot exceed
halt an ounce in weight. The adul-
teratlon OF musk is made possible by
the use of a seed known as the musk
seed. 1t grows in India. The Chin
ess mn5k Is priced the most, but it
more open to suspicion than the
Russian, which is seldom found with
sac broken. There are many artificial
musks, but none OF them can take the
place OF the genuine In the fine arts.
Ambergris is valuable aud costly
adjunct of the perfumers' art. l: Is be-
lieved to be caused by a disease OF the
liver IN the spermacetl whale, in the
intesunes of which it is chiefly found,
although it is cast up by the sea in
Oriental climes, and is gathered along
the shores Of Coromandel, Madagas-
car, and Japan. l. is an aromatic.
gray substance, and as much as i5o
pounds oft have been taken from one
whale. A lump of ambergris Of that
, size is worth to the whaler about S.,
600. There is no duty on ambergris
in this country. 1t is worth as much as
SIS an ounce in New York. 1t is OF
incalcuiable benefit TO the perfumer, as
it gives homeogeneity to the fragrance
of combined extracts and oils in re-
markable manner, and strongly devel.
: ops the delicate ard evanescent odors
of volatile oils Ambergrls, when gen
uine, for it is easily counterdted. is full
5 Of black spots when cut. 1t IS used TO
improve the havors of wines.
Col gnes and toilet water Of all
kinds havd been so successfully pre-
pared in this country during the past
few years that large export trade in
them has gradually developed. AZ CO.
; Iogne Is simply refined, odorless alco-
, hol peIflmed with some essentials oil
of flowers, there Is no reason why it
should moi be made here as well as
elsewhere. All first class toilet waters.
with exception of bay rum, are moth
!, ing more nor less than perfumed cora
! spirits, which have received a medicinal
quality by the introduction OF balsam-
r lc or tonic properties. Genuine bay
, rum Is always imported. Nine-tneths oI
the stuff used as bay rum IN New
York, as well as other cities, is not bay
rum at all, but a mixture Of the essen
tiai oil Of bay with common rum OF
- alcohol. There are few barber shops
where the genuine article is in use.
Genuine bay rum is made only in
5 the West Indies. 1t is The sdistilation
of the green leaves and berries Of the
f bayberry tree mixed with absolute pure
rlm, St. Croix being used IN the very
best quality. There is only one true
bayberry, but there are many varieties
q of it in the West Indies. and so closely
Go they resemble the primemta oeris
Y or true bay, that great care is neces-
sary In gathering the leaves, for the
presence of a small quantity Of leave:
OF any other variety is sufficient &c
spoil the entire product Of a still. Ripe
| berries are mixed in the still with thl
leaves. The best bay spirits are dis
TILED by steam in copper pipes. but
} the ordinary commercial spirit, such a:
j bay rum Is made from here, is ldistill-
ed over an open fire. The genuine
r steam distilled bay spirit is not only
many times stronger than the other
but the refreshing aroma that charact
erizes it is ten times as lasting Tht
y West In n6iaDs fpd the true bay rum S;
IS necessary to their comfort among tht
q numerous discomtorts attending a hft
g in the climate of their country tha
g they use about all that is made. ant
s hence lis scarcity in this and othe
% countries.