Evening star., 1885-06-06
THE SUMMER FASHIONS.
DAY DREssEs-oUrsF-DooR wEAR-DINNER
DREsSEs-BELTED wAIsrs-rHE NEW BON
NETs-THE KMBRokDxRx RAoB-TnE LATEST
NOVELTIES, ETC.

| ALL JACKETS are cut short.
GRAY MOHAIRs are coming into popularity.
PLAIN SArrEENs are trimmed with velvets
Of the saxne shade.
| TURBANs are seldom to be seen now, and
when worn are placid back on the head.
| SOME OF THE NEW TENNIS COSTUMES are nade
of doe colored Mexican grass cloth, trimmed
with Turkish EN- broiderieS and worn with sailor
| hats OF ecTu straw. '
| EMBROIDERY is extensively used to trim
| afternoon dresses for both walking and driving.
Reds, blues in light and dark shades, browns,
| to be seen In these dresses.
| GRAY AND PALE CoFFEE-BRowN of the soft
| est tints are two colors, which, in various fab
rcs, from satin to serge, are to prove very popu-
| walking costumes.
AFTERNOON AND EVENING DRESSES for
children are elaborately trimmed with Oriental
and Valenciennes lace. In addition to quahti-
worn trihe shorter than was the fashion dur
/ Ing the winter.
| NEW BoNNErs fit the head closely. They are
less elaborate than those wsEn during the
spring, and many of them are without strings.
bite In yhuZy materials and dack velvet is =
aSOrlte combination of cOlOES, also olive green
and faintest pink, and seal brown and yellow.
AT THE PRIVATE VIEW in the Grosvenor gal
larry this year Mrs. Langtry was the observed OF
all observers She enjoyed the distinction OF
satisfaction that her dress was AHEAD OF the
| fashions, and that her bonnet was adorned with
brilliant Chartreuse velvet bow.
THE LADIKs' CLUB, in New York, which has
been spoken of in the newspapers, Is still in .
state of indefniteness, although many promi-
nent women have it actually in hand, and de-
clare that 1t Will be established. If SO, it will
be strictly fashionable society, and the list Of
membership will be small and exclusive.
For OUT-OG-DoORS MORNING WEAR white
cashmeres are to be worn q great deal. They
will not be made up elabOrately, tucks on the
skirt, long pointed drapery and plated waists,
with belts, being the principal style. The white
lawns and handsome embroidery dresses will
also be extensively worn, with dainty white
hats and sailt colored parasols.
FLouNCEs MADE OF WooLLENs which have a
| canvas weave or a loose mesh, and fine white
goods which have no dressing in them, are now
daintily finished in hemsttching up half the
widths. Tncks are set between, and the hem
stitching has u very delicate and pretty effect
above Threads are drawn, and the hem and
tueks are then stitched in the same way as
pocket handkerchief bordering Is fihishe1.
A DINNER DRESS of fine black silk grenadine,
made over black satin and frightened by gar
nture OF buttercups and narrow yellow satin
ribbon, is novel and handsome A large black
and yellow feather fan is to be carried with it.
The waist Is cut very low and round, without
sleeves, and has the buttercups surrounding the
entire corsa.e. The skirt Is dpaped and trin-
med, and has long train surrounded by gar
ri,tture niture OF the buttercups and yellow ribbon:
Ihese also extend diagO0ally down the front of
the skirt.
A FRENCH MODIsTE recently, in planning a
dress of fine cashmere, required strong surah
for the waist lining. In making up the skirt,
she used a number Of yards of silk and linen
MORE kreolcaise. This seemed rather an eX.
travagant outlay for lining, but In the end the
sofrness and grace with which the dress mater
ial draped itsef above the skirt lining, and the
perfection of 1T ths surah silk gave the bodice,
sufficiently justified the extra expenditure. 1t
Is no doubt In great measure due to their
ttTrlfE nRh droS nyxyor
to their acknowledged caehet.
For LOVERS of novelty there are changeable
batistes, in which gilt is introduced In dots all
over the fabric and In stripes near the selvedge
for borders. The sweetpea color. showing both
silver and gilt borders are also introduced ia
Scotch gin@hams and In white cotton that is
called India cotton. Old-fashoned cambr1cs in
halfinch stripes OF three gay colors, such as
blue, poppy red and olive or brown. are again
shown for gay over-dresses, with skirts entirely
OF embroidered cambria.
A HANDSOME DBKss, worn at a matinee in
New York last Wednesday, consisted of skirt
of golden brown velvet with a narrow ruftle Of
the same box-pleated around the foot. Above
this was deep flounce Of dark ecru lace in
llama. A shawl tunic of the velvet was draped
above this skirt the point reaching quite to the
bottom OF the underdress in front This was
edged with gathered ruf11e of the lace, and the
bodice was OF velvet with the inevitable waist
coat of lace, with straps of velvet crossing it
lrem throat to waist-line. The hat was of brown
brown velvet flowers.
BLACK SArIN or surah dresses are effectively
remodelled by adding panels, vest front, and
collar and cuffs Of dark red surah laid in fine
net or lace. A lady recently had very hand
some black snk srenadine "m;tde 6ver," with
panels wafstcoat, and collar OF poppy red silk
in raised designs. En svhs with the dress was
a hat of black -Cnantiliy Lace lined with poppy
red SIX, short dolman-shaped wrap OF the
nd ShAr rod. nd
black para,ol the whole completing rich and
extremely becoming toilet.
IMPROVED ENGLISH WALKING HATS have
appeared once again, a little wider in the brim
and with less roll at the sides than upon the Old
models. Many ladies prefer this style Of hat to
| any shape ever produced among the scores de-
signed for general wear. Velvet edges tif brim
here and there with fancy gold pins are the
only trimmings seen upon these new shapes
making them the tfaveling hat. par excellence
as they are comfortable on the head. shade tue
eyes slightly, and are devoid OF the frippery and
''fuss and feathers which always look out of
place upon the head of a tourist.
AMONG EXPENSIVE NOVELTIES in French
gloves are medium long oues Of the finest and
most delicate kid, the backs of which are COW
cred with a narrow, dainty design, wrought in
beads Of silver. ses. jet, pearl, etc, to match
very dressy with a Suitable co.tsIne. aud the
wohder Is that in these days ol embroidery
work, ladies do Not attempt tbs easy decora
tlOn. II Is efsy 10 obtain fine delicate pattern
on paper, and not at all d. nicuit to follow the
design In beads threaded strong silk The
cost would be about half th;E OF gloves pur-
chased already embroidered n the manner de-
scr1bed>
THE NEW YORK Post says that among the
overjacketS for summer wear are those of Ne
apolitan red serge, braided with deeper color
and In a fine arabesque pattern. These are de-
signed for morning wear in the mountains or at
the se:IshOre. For more dressy are yisites
of ecru Hama net over lining, OF lilac. or pale.
blue surah With lace trimIn flss to correspond:
and those OF veiyet-brOcadod greEadine IRE
bows of watered ribbon. In long pelisses are
novelties made of creanl-cOoxed canvas with
gay colored satin stripes. These are loCse down
the fronts, and are trimmed with golden brown
woollen lace.
FOR THE MORNING DRESSES Of housewives,
| misses and young girls the housemaid skirt
without drapery is used with the plain beltea
waist just described. Four breadths OF yard
wide muslin will suffice TOR this skirt for wo-
men OF medium size. The front breadth is
sioped narrower at the top, and it may be ne
eessary 10 slope slightly the parts OF the side
oEeadths next the front; the fullness is raasseu
sehind, and the front Is lett almost entirely
pain III the material is q light print or :,u li-
expensive ginghain, the skirt is ini he'd with n
hem four 10 SIX Inches deep, but tucks are added
Tor nice lawns ana IhIslins.
CoLoRED Innings Of poppy red pale lilac
| pink, cict blue, and primrose underdresses of
grenadine, lace, net, and otlfer transparent fab
rics, are to be tae height Of fashion the coming
summer. Beneath the new woOlenDr wax IacaS
these innings are very elective. N:,;e red silEs
are again popular, and these NAV be Combined
with lace, eitn0r woolcn or silk. Btre~. toe is