The Portland daily press., 1885-11-25
OUR FOREIGN LETTER.
cIeneariff and it's Surroundings-Deg-
radiation and Mlsery-Killarney and
lnnisfaIIen- Beggars Persistent and
Inoenious-the Gap of Dunloe.
Especial Correspondence of the PREss.l


1
Especial Correspondence of the PREss.l
GLENGARIFF.
Glengariff is very attractive place and
may boast Of one of the few inns, kept by
Mrs. Eccles, which the traveller is 10th to
leave. 1t is a rambling old house, with sud-
den surprises at every turn, situated at the
head of Bantry Bay, where lay, the day we
arrived, a number of the Queens Fleet, with
gay pennons and streamers flying, and can
mons booming to celebrate the Princess Bea-
trice's wedding at the Isle of Wight. Mrs.
Eccles, model landlady of Eye olden time,
makes a fit presiding genius over such a
house filed with old armor, china, pictures
and euriosities from distant chimes and every
age A large and choice library affords the
soiourner entertainment on rainy day. The
gardens are filed with shrubbery and flow
ers, the roads are lined with hedges of fus-
chias eight TO ten feet high, in full bloom at
the time we were there. The whole front OF
the house is literally covered with ivies, pur-
pie clematis, nasturtiumS and magnolias, fes
looming the doors and windows, and climb
ing to the roof Fish in variety abound III
the streams and bays. Lord Bantry, the
owner of this estate, controls the former; but
fortunately cannot restrict the poor tenant
from catching fresh sole and whiting for
his breakfast in the salt waters. In the bay
we frequently saw sp0rtsmen standing upon
the rocks, apparently watching for ducks;
but seeing them several times fire at the sur
face of the water, curiosity to learn all the
new sports prompted us to inquire what they
dofv o,,d fold how
shooting gray mullets. This novel mode OF
fishing arises from the perversity of the null
| let in not taking the hook, and their unlucky
| habit for their own safety, of swimming near
| the surface.
The river Proudly, a noted trout stream,
| flows into Bantry Bay near the Eccles Hotel.
Reaching far into the stream are the ruins of
a famous bridge called "Cromwells," which
the natives say was built in As hours. The
Protector when marShaling his army across
the country was compelled to ford the river
or improviSe floats, and he ordered bridge
to be made for his return, which command
the citizens obeyed more from fear than love.
A single arch remains through which grows
a large spruce tree knitting together the
crumbling masonry, and holding up this
land mark in spite of its own great weight.
The ride from Glengariff to Killarney is very
interesting. One sees however, increasing
| degradation and misery; cabins are built
| upon the ground, with single room, where
| the family, pig and poultry huddle together,
| or are separated by thin board. The pig,
which Pat himself loosely denominates
| ''the gintleman who pays the rint, may Of
ten be seen at the sound of approaching
wheels, rushing out of the doorway with the
children, whose movements are so little ham
pered by garments, and their faces such
strangers to soap and water that it is difficult
to tell which is which. If American la
dies could see the novels and the beastly
modes of living to which their servants We're
born they would wonder that they ever be-
came decent members of civilized communi-
ties, rather than lose patience at their stu
pidity. Though often thirsty we could not
drink the milk they offered to travellers. The
route passes through Kenmare where the
stage drops the passengers to take dinner at
1.-THE Landsdowne Arms This is quaint
dingy old town; but about this time in the
day, after five hours ride in bracing noun
tain air, one does not appreciate queer sights
! and Outlandish people in artistic costumes as
much as good roast, which unfortunately
seldom go together. At Kenmare is one of
the oldest converts in the kingdom, which
has been celebrated for hundred years for
its delicate laces. The writer preferring Irish
point to stale salmon, made the most of the
hours incoming allotted the driver for his
beer, and the horses for a ''stir-about," in
visit to the Reverend Mother, who, with all
her sweet and gracious manner, is very
sharp at trade. No lady can visit such
places, and see the long rows of girls as they
| sit on hard benches in dimly lighted rooms,
| and spend their lives in counting gossamer
| threads and stitching fairy tissues, without
| losing some of her pride and pleasure in the
| mere possession of few bits of hand made
| lace
KILLARNEY AND INNIsFALLEN.
At Killarney the Victoria Hotel is built on
beautiful lawn sloping down to the lake,
and directly opposite the famous island Of
Innisfallen, still as fresh and green as a
thousand years ago, when it was the centre
and authority of Christianity in these north
ern lands. Early in the sixth century the re-
ligion of Christ took deep root in Ireland.
For three centuries, while the other Europe
an nations were convulsed with war, Ireland
offered peaceful shelter to those who sought
her refuge for safety or solitude Her rep
resentative men were remarkable for those
traits of character which develop true man
hood, and many of them are justly registered
in the calendar of saints. These men not
only built up schools of learning at home, but
went forth as missionaries to all parts of the
known world, and suffered many privations
in their faithful labors in the Christian
cause 1t is noteworthy fact that many
of the early founders of Christianity, whose
names are venerated in the different coun-
trie. Of Europe where they labored, were
Irishmen. Of Innisfallen, Alfred, king of
the Northumbrian Saxons, wrote more than
thousand years ago:
~ found in the fair Innisfalen,
In Ireland, while in exile,
Many women, no silly crowd,
Many laicS-many clericS."
Knowing somewhat of the island, we wan
dered through its beautiful groves of ash
trees, and unused over the ruins of the old
Abbey, in which doubtless st. Columbia St.
Album, st. Killain and many more pious
men had worshipped. A few sheep were
browsing upon the short green heritage about
the ruins, whose noiseless presence only in
creased the unbroken quietude of the place.
Hidden under the gnarled roots of an old
yew tree, whose age could only be recorded
by the centuries, was tomb recently dis
covered by accident. On excayating it was
found to contain the remains of an early alb
bot, whose life has long ago been erased from
historic records, and whose body was in
tered before this sapling found Judgement in
the sod above. Peering into the dark recesses
of the decayed trunk we could plainly see
the masonry of the walls of the tomb. We
left with the words of Moore on our lips:
''Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well,
May calm and sunshine long be thine
How fair thou art, let others tell,
While but to feel how fair, be mine.'
Having hnnrd of the BLACK " allau nnd Con