The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-08-19
WHITE SULPHUR AND LURAY
Some of the Beautiful Things Witnessed
by the Art EXcursionists.
White Sulphur Springs and the People Who
There Spend the Hot Season-The
Caverns of Luray.
correspondence Of tho Indianapolis Journo,.


OLD POINT COMFORT. Va. Aug 12.-The Art
Association tour, in charge Of J. II. Martin, be-
gan July q. The well-known Indiana plain,
with its horizontal boughed beech forests. Its
corn fields, wheat stubble, tumble-down aborers'
huts its great farm houses, many-chamberef
and having no dust blowing in at their open
windows, and its groups Of tanned country folks
at the stations, was crossed Then came the
huge net of railro Is at Cincinnati, the hundreds
Of locomotives coming in at night, the fires of
stationary engines cleaning in the hot twilight
the crowds of working folks spending their even
ing in the streets Why they love this filthy
city is a wonder Then the Ohio, shining in full
moonlight. and then bosky bushy Kentucky and
all its hills
Next morning a ride beside rushing waterfalls
and between perpendicular mountains clothed
with forests to their tops. Little farms
hang upon the hillsides, booms of
logs float down the rivers, the pic
turesque smelling furnace stands in many
delicious nook, coke ovens burn by the track,
miners cots stand near the mountain springs
mines open on the mountain sides. Refreshing
are the wild woods of Virginia. The sun shines
on the pokeberries and wild fragrance fills the
air
Ere noon White Sulphur Springs are reached
The hotel is an old brick building of noble
quiet symmetry. 1t stands plateau high
among the mountains which frame it with
fascinating, flowing lines and rich hues of forest
green never to be forgotten, and with huge
clouds piling up behind and across the peaks.
White Sulphur has peculiar softness and deli
cacy Of mountain landscape. 1t has no dust, no
flies; only the smell of grass and flowers floats
over it's lorg slopng lawns and white galleries.
No dirt anywhere. In the building the draperies
are not fusty and thick, but light
and thin, and marble pavements and
waXed floors abound. The grand drawing
room is fine. fresh, magnificent
apartment; its frescoes of delicate light hues
The enormous dining room is the same; its roof
supported by rows OF graceful columns, is fres-
coed with flowers on a ground of warm, light
grays and fawn tints The cookery here is above
perfection Salads! kiss my hand!
Here beauty is common as to be no longer
noticeable. Even the white handed old dowa-
gers are splendid looking. The young men are
handsome; their faces just little sharp In
the long verandas, which are supported on solid
brick arches of a low but pleasing shape. you
see clusters of beautiful young people. Some
of the girls are of solid, firm. satin skinned,
expect to see. They are dressed
exQuisitely mostly in fresh, white toilets worn
but once. All are friends all acquainted.
Elegant carriages are seen, coming and going
about the hotel. Bicycle riders speed up the
long, winding gravel walks toward the noun
tains. Now and then a couple of hunters are
observed starting for the mountain forests,
where bear. deer and tatamounts still abound
Some playing Tennis some reading in
the sweet, fine air. At night there is concert
with tabeaux for some charity. These Jabieanx
are remarkably well done, and deeply interest
ing. The costumes are thoroughly we'll made
of fine silks, satins and velvets-the wearers ars
good actors, with expressive faces and motion
less stone-al are handsome. The stage
is admirably made, and we'll draped with
good, red cloth-no skimping and no
botching anywhere. After the tableaux
comes ball, with dancing by the actors in their
gay costumes.
Leaving the vivid lawns the mountain sky, the
richly dressed people. the children, nurses,
servants, and great hotel of White Sulphur,
again we pass through landscape in which the
eye dips down vast depths into wide ravines of
the woody mountains, or lifts itself slowly up
the mountain sides seeking horizon that is
often near the zeDith. Then, after an old
fashioned stage ride through woods that smell Of
ferns and moss, we reach Natural Bridge and its
rustic nn We sleep in beautiful rooms in one
of the large pavions near the inn, on the slope
of the hill We are near the small pavilion for
music, occupied by the Annapolis naval
over the silent mountain sides. followed by hand
clapping from the guests of the inn they sit
on the many galleries OF the paviliOns listening.
Natural Bridge is scene of the richest sweeps of
color, OF fine long, curvlng lines. of immense
height of grand shape, and of flowers, ferns,
ard lichens. All about the place a pleasant
rustcity is maintained, Horses are kept for the
guests. and much horse back riding goes on. In
ono of the pavllions very elegant ballroom
occupies the ground floor, and is nightly opened
for ball and concert. The music of the best
composers is played The dances are conducted
without calling Off"
On again by the train. Rich valleys, old
homesteads with e-hives about them. The
wondrous blue domes of the Blue Ridge deep
blue no matter how near, begin to show This
is the home of the weeping willow, which
nowhere else throws up such prodi.
gious fountains of foliage. Cedars and
hemlocks reach an Incredible size.
At night b penetrating GOODNESS, without chilli
ness, fills the air. We at Luray, the most
beautiful of caves. Going down through earthly
smell and chill, fear smtes the heart But soon
circular cave chamber is reached, seemingly
covered with fresh gothic marble sculptures, and
having rich pendant in its center 1t is lighted
by electricity, and SO beautiful that fear is gone
and wonder and admiration take its place
Deeper and deeper underground 60. and
everywhere the most striking thing IS the con
slant mlmicry of forms we used to seeing
above ground. What occult law passes through
the universe, causing all FORMS both in darkness
ana ngnt, 10 take these laulllar ShapeSf One
room Stimulates a butcher shop hung with legs of
meat, another is a tannery hung with hides. an
other is hung with fish. wet and shining in their
natural colors, all of adamantine stone and
formed by the slow ooZe of drops of pure water
during millions of ages. Going deeper,
the beauty of the cave constantly increases,
until at 260 feet under ground an African mag
nlfcence is attained. Some chambers are
rooted with rich moresque work of red and
yellow One stately room is eighty feet high;
the light sweep of its arched roof is sustained by
a gigantic central column richly grooved and
sculptured. One is theater with decorated
galleries; one is a small oratorio hung with
points. and built in the early French gothic
style. One Alhamhra like apartment contains
majestic throne. and about it are hooded and
draped human shapes like living people, not
liking to be disturbed in their silent underground
watch No wonder they used to have tales of