The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-12-06

molested they hiss quite audibly in protest, hui
If passed peacefully by they are seen shutting
OH into The bushes, as though thankful TO es-
cape. Unhappy oxen are toiling patiently MP
wards, literally inch by inch, dragging heavy,
creaklng wagons, loaded with miscellaneous inn
portatlons, prominent amongst which l notice
square cans of American petroleum.
Men on horseback are encountered, the long
guns of the Orient slung at their backs, and
knife and pistols in sash, looking altogether fe-
rocious. Not only are these people perfectly
harmless, but | verify think it would take a good
deal OF aggravation to make them think of fight
ing. The fellow whose horse we frightened
down a rocky embankmentt at the imminent
risk OF breaking the neck Of both horse and
rider, had both gun, knife and pistols, yet
though he probably thinks US emissaries of the
evil one, he is in no sense a dangerous character,
ms weapons being merely gewgaws to adorn his
person. Finally, the summit of this range Is
gained, and the long grateful descent into the
valley of the Nlssava river begins. The
surface during this descent. though averaging
very good, is not always of the smoothest; sew
eral dismounts are found to be necessary, and
many places ridden over require a quick eye and
ready hand to pass. The Servians have made a
capital point in fixing their new boundary line
south of this mountain range"
Mr.. Stevens passed a day in the Balkan village
of Bella Palanka, and was impressed with the
conviction that an Oriental village is a splendid
place not to live In. In dry weather it is disa-
greable enough, bnt to-day it ia
a disorderly aggregation of miser-
able looking villagers, pigs, ducks, geese,
chickens and dogs padding around the muddy
streets. The Oriental peasants costume is pict.
uresque or otherwise, according to the fancy OF
the observer. The red fez or turban, the upper
garment, and the ample red sash wound round
and round the waist until it is eighteen inches
broad, look picturesque enough for anybody; but
when 1t comes to having the seat of the panta-
looms dangling about the calves of the legs. a
person imbued with Western ideas naturally
fE1nl u h n = If %hn live aN-oa.
and a two bushel gupny-sack is to be drawn any
where, 1t should most assuredly be drawn here"
On taking leave of Servia at the Bulgarian
frontier, Mr.. Stevens sums up his impressions
of the land and people: MY ride through Ser
via, save over the Balkans, has been most en-
joyable, and the roads. | am agreeably surprised
to have to record, have averaged as good as any
country In Europe, save England and France,
though, beingfor the most part unmacadamized,
with wet weather they would scarcely show to
such advantage. My impressions of the Ser
vlans is most favorable; they are evidently a
warm-hearted, hospitahle. and withal a patriotic
people, loving their little country and appre-
ciating their independence as only people
who have but recently had their dream
or self-governmentr realized know how to appre-
clate 1t; they even pant the woodwork of their
bridges and public buildings with the national
colors. L am assured that the Serviars have
progressed wonderfully since acquiring their full
independence, but, as one journeys down the
beautiful and fertile valley of Ve Morava,
were improvements would naturally be seen. if
anywhere. one falls to wondering where they
can possibly have come in. Some of their meth
DDS would, indeed, seem to indicate a most de-
plorable lack of practicability. One of the most
ridiculous to the writer's mind, is the erection of
small, long sheds, substantially built of heavy
hewn timber supports, and thick, homemade
tiles, over ordinary plank fences and gates,
to protect them from the weather, when
a good coating of tar or paint would answer the
purpose of preservation much better. These
structures give one the impression of a dollar
placed over a penny to protect the latter from
harm. Every peasant owns a few acres of land,
and if he produces anything above his own
wants. he hauls it to market in an OK wagon with
ronehly-hewn wheels without tires, and whose
creaking can plainly be heard a mile away. At
present the Servian ti]ls his little freehold with
the clumsiest of instruments, some his own rude
handiwork, and the best imperfectly fashioned
and forged on native anvils His pillow is chiefly
the forked limb of a tree, pointed with iron suf-
fcient to enable him to root around in the sur
face SOIL"