St. Landry democrat. (Opelousas, La.) 1878-1894, 1885-07-04
FASHION NOTES.
The Tendency to Woman's Dresses-Bits OF
Information.

The fashions this spring tend toward
ample tullness in the back, the long
boufant tunics and apron overdresses
being much more favored than panier
effects. Pleats, folds antique draper
les, vests, waistcoats, round waists
with belts of ribbon or velvet, hooked,
clasped, buckled or tied, are each and
all of universal adoption.
The bodices to many of the new prin-
cesse-slips Of foundation silk are now
very frequently cut low in the neck.
while the second bodice above, of lace
or grenadine. is high to the throat-a
becoming and very pretty fashion re-
vived, and one exceedingly comfortable
during the torrid days and evenings of
July and August. The princesse-slip
is cut to fit the form like glove, much
gored in front, and moderately full In
the back. as the slip itself is but a
beautifully tinted foundation for the
lace or other airy drapings which
wholly veil it.
Dress collars are worn immensely
high this season, in military fashion,
and are most generally made of velvet,
no matter what the dress itself is formed
of. Some of these are made wholly of
| plain velvet, and fastened in front by
two jeWe1led collar-buttons, secured by
a guard-chain of fine gold. Others are
braided, gold-embroidered, piped, or
| lace-edged, top and bottom, to suit in
| diVidual fancy.
Many of the most expensive white
costumes designed for afternoon and
evening wear the coming season. have
round waists made very plain, the rich
embroidery and lace garniture being
portion of the bodice only, this often in
the form of a lace waistband or a Fed
ora vest of embroidery. This plain
mode of making the waists is employed
| for the reason that en- suite are the
pretty little zouaVe jackets, of either
dark ruby or dark-blue velvet, to be
worn above, thus revealing only the
white waist beneath, from throat to
belt in front, and the dainty lace
| sleeves; for nine out of ten of thezouave
and Russian jackets are sleeveless.
Satin-fnished silks, gros grains, OF
tomans, fine and heavy cords, and lus-
terless armures are all imported among
the tempting array of silks for the sea-
son. Light qualities of gros d Ecosse
and eros de Londre are preferred,
amoug Ottoman silks, to the very heavy
Muscovite cords in vogue during the
winter. Gros-grain silks in coarse and
fine cords are manufactured in great
variety of attractive Weaves and quail
ties. The brands of the new gros
grains made by standard firms are
distinguished by q beautiful satin
luster, and are exquisitely soft and
rich in appearance. There is steady
demand for these handsome goods, and
a fine quality of gros grain will be
found more durable, and will give
more satisfaction in general wear than
any of the scores of Clancy silks and
satins now in market.
An exceedingly rich and beautiful
reception dress was lately completed,
which would be novel and graceful
model for other less expensive toilets.
The bodice and train were made of
palest mauve satin, brocaded in
arabesque patterns of raised velvet
of a deep violet shade. Down the
front, from belt to tiny knife pleating
of satin at the foot of the skirt, were
laid folds of plain dark velvet, the
center forming one very wide panel
coming directly in front. This single
panel was hand-embroidered in colors
of pale mauVe, shading to heliotrope
and violet, in silk and arrasene en-
broidery. The narrow vest front on
the bodice was decorated to CORE
spond. A bridal dress of white silk,
with q panel and pleats each side of
white satin, the panel hand-embroid-
cred or painted, would form a lovely
toilet. A still richer one of satin, with
panel covered with network of pearls,
beads and chenille, would also make a
most elegant dress for a bride.
French flannel, rough-finished bison
cloth, cashmere and serge are among
the most popular suitings now selected
by ladies who do not care for checked
or striped goods Of cheViot or tweed.
Ottoman cloths, in rich and sheeny
fruit shades, or in nuns gray, olive or
golden brown, make very tasteful and
ladylike suits, while the serges and
poplins now so lavishlY displayed upon
the counters of every leading house are
chosen by many on account of their
alleged durability for travelling and
utility costumes.
Gray, fawn, beige, all shades Of
brown, from cream brown to the red
dish and golden tones; deep, rich color
ings in Neapolitan and royal blue, wine
reds, garnet, dark greens, and black
are 81 fashionable co1ors; but terra
Gotta, crushed raspberry or strawberry,
and all sickly artistic tints have had
their day. Exception, however, is
made of the new pale half-shades of
yellow greens and willow and frog
pond greens, which have been urged
11nnn the hands of doubling leaders of