New-York tribune., 1885-01-17
THE FASHIONS.
PRINCIPALLY FOR The BALLROOM.
~,oH AND COSTLY FABRICs--DEsIGNs FOR COSTUMES
PANS AND SCREENS.


PANS AND SCREENS
The superb metallic fabrics now used seem
ant NJ place I'm these modern days. The designs arc
oessiyely large. Tho great tropical plants ana noWe
cox er the thick satin other grounds from eus eN
ot the breadth Some broadleaved lilies on one dessh
are IN high relief the silver threads are ike w
shading done in satin in contrast has grayisn tn'
notber oi these fabrics has the appearance OF lros'
traeeres on glass and like stippled shaded sNei 70
another In the CLINT OF sunshine Inc enec' VI '"o s
etching on gray neutral tint ground Is very hAo ~
work with jts cleaning staactes and lustres. Aho0
"a mass Of curving STEMS large leaves ana clusters Vi
berries of frosty and glittering silver on
satin ground exquisitely shaded. The creamy ~h'o
Ground of another heavy with Its silver threads Is
dered with white fried daisies with bloom OF s'ery
gray 81 adngs In their silver petals ana heFe arc
nower rups bending with the weight OF silver de" anu
silver wrought foliage These superb oesAsn' "ie
Gated in gold tipsel. gold white satin merve'euA'
and others show the banana foliage and flower IN silver
shaded etchings dotted about with god threas' N
creamy ustrous satin Tor draperies mas gsii" n0y
"a vide as the breadth of shaded tropical flowers ana
foliage in natural OF gold ana all OF the ,e
shales the shading thrown from the under side Is
like seeded stitches by haDd-work In embroidery.
creamy ground is covered with large rhagnoias ana
drooping lush like paintings. sath
has exquisite designs in velvet tmpr.m@ ike Ve'e'
painted by hand Of scarlet shaded nowers WIN ioas0
of golden green the coors softly blending fa"e
by ossy silk in gay coors These are all done ln tne
Jacouard LOOM glowing sapphire ground OF satln ID
starred with the most brilliant flowers hanging ke
etringed Jewels inermixei with gllnt OF gou 'h'e"
Other grounds light ruby and olive SATIN arc covers"
with large ovals OF Egyptian designs ana coors 'ihS
that were worn two hundred and fifty years ago aie
reproduced On heavy silk ground are set clusters OF
flowers of the finest imitation OF haud embroidery.
wonderful imitation of applique designs OF ola tapestry
has dark-rcd satin ground oVerlaid Win gray fe'e'
fie IN high relief the design repeated Is large tuP
with dark shaded eaves the interstices tho darRred
glows through. rose-satin ground is coverea WIN
olive frise designs Of deep red tulips. These heavily
wrought and magnificent fabrics are used for the irohs
pastrons and trains Of costumes with the harmonious
almixture of palmer but no less costly Ha'efi anu
exquisite lace.
FOR THE BALLROOM.
Soft misty tuo for ball dresses is decately embrOid-
erred with SILVER and gold tiDse and floss SILK IN feather
patterns one of the most graceful OF the rany designs
other styles OF ue OF different colors are spangied ana
worked in white and gold floss silk and tnse ono Oh
these delicate fancies Is embroidered all over WIN
shaded leaves IN the richest OF antunna tints, ana
another ia dotted about with feathers worked with silver
Thread Some OF the trimming aces heavy with floss
ana gold threat work. Prominent among the satins
intended only anels and drperies there Is one se
OF rich wnecolOred satin adorned with regular rows oi
small fiat bouquets of the size ana knd ald IRON
one edge to the The white fluffy fur OF the Persian
lamb prominent among other ch Irmng trimmings Tor
opera and general evening wraps. The decoHe cosage
now almost universally adopted or full evening dress is
cut according fashions dictates, down TO point bot
back and front and is gracefully draped with lace e
broidered tulle or gauze This drapery Is generally
arranged the sleeves aud then is caught up with
tufts feathers cluster OF loops or droopng sprays o
flowers Not nfrequeutly bird is sancily perehcd upon
one shoulder in ambush of tiny buds The Grec!an or
ctUss-oye: waist has been revived among other exceed
ngy becoming styles 81 the past @s snc cfes as net
gauZe laminated tinsel Work tule Of the many
snash ard sbresdei with silver several skirts are
draped thin unerskir and the flowers are silver
that are not cut low and turned back WIN
slight spring from the throat and are ired win Mechn
or other real lace. necklct OF pears or other gems
worn close about the throat with medallion pendant or
of pearls and dia;nonds one OF me aoosc descpeo
OF perfect pearls casped the throat aud the satin front
ssen Si Of ana
of creamy lace nearly covering the delicate texture or
satin are combined with yelling. For these dresses
there are other becoming ARRANGEMENTS Tor he heoH
smside disclosed netwccn. Again. these may he cut
square shaped according to the beauty or youth @.
the wearcr. Mui'iing the neck and throat Is never
necessary where there many cbarriag ahis 10
beauty IN s The see ro 59f odee SSn AMI
all other flowers not only very costly bnt VIII ana
fore the exquisite workmanship OF the swiss and French
arises dees aetectio the great lnsh roses hane te
and golden Margueri,cs prmroses starry jasmine,
only to toll their perfume on the air 70 assnie
bordered with closely nia.scd gafiands O. lowers;
ss and oSeG an the noaneS
increased size Of the tonue the possible appear
basque is pointed ever pulled the is cut
low and sIuare; broad panels form the sides narrow
rouni the lower ege OF the skirt top concealed by
the bottom Of the long pulled apron, which together Win
Srecdaea velvet the remainder Of tie Costume
plain surah satin. The apron Is covered with net lace
and the pus the sleeves also OF aco net competed
with trimming lace that also trims the basque, creating
Q vest and passing around the neck
ARTISTIC FANG AND SCREENS.
Fans of surprising beauty naturally accompany these
superb toettes. Many OF these painted by French
and German artists after the style OF watteau Boucher
Ieuze Others not copying however, the rocco style
of impossible shepherdesses aud shepherds with silver
crooks there landscapes and water views where
the figures of men and equally artistic and OF
the present age. The hant-painng Of an amateur is
soon detected fan. The combination OF silk en-
brodery fine painting the silk or satin OF fan Is
one OF the outc0mes OF feminine handiwork ana
one OF the beautiful delicate fan o finest gaAe
has decorations painted OF the gayest specimens OF the
tribe OF butterflies swarmDg about little bit OF relis
syerhung with finest silk noss embroidery Of vines and
blossoms; 1t Is mounted in plain mother-of-pearl A
wbts satin fan Is decorated with cory OF Vatican
miniature painted ex1uisitey In waeT-coors Sprays OF
wild flowers painted II spinging from the side OF the
fan are very life-like Fine silk, without cprd. and
chicken skin form the best grouud for artistic painting
One these specimens shows delicious har rest scene
at sunset; o group OF giraners homewaiI bonha.
daplcd with CATTLE golden stacks dark thckets
overshadOwng little blue gray river winding away IN
the distances this is mounted ON carved violet wood
cluster Japan lilies IL exquisely painted on white
satin FAM and another OF pale rose satin coyey OF
biuebirds fly the surface and there are
iogea sdies in grnys lumber kid and silk ncr Is
the fayorite and beautiful pond lily omitted.
The introduction Of open hrepaccs makes the preser
walton OF the complexion necessity. therefore hand
similar to thOseused by generations passed away
erc again added TO the luxures OF the tines Naturally
those lighter than fans. some OF delicate
gauzo mounted on bamboo and ex]nistely painted
for Leander Eana Ia hunting dress. taller than her
attendant nymphs with q bow In her hand quiycr
cuapended across her shoulders, silver crescent over
her forehead; BIRDS butterflies. Dowers asO repre-
ocnted painted sometimes embroidered gauzc. silk