The Dallas daily herald. [volume] (Dallas, Tex.) 1873-1887, 1885-05-09
TIE PER 9 umER.s Akr.


and he suggests means of obtaining
heliotrope .pomade VIII CHI any person
may put into practice. In an ordinary
glue pot, made thoroughly clean, place
a pound of fine lard, and when the hello
trope flowers arc in season throw them
into the clarified fat. Place the glue
pot near the fire OF the green house, so
as just to liquiiy the lard. Let the
flowers remain in the liquid for "a hours,
strain the fat from the spent flowers,
and go on repeating the operation TOR a
week. the result will be pomade la
heliotrope. This pomade can be
made into an extract by
stepping the odorous fat in highly recti-
fed spirits. In this manner young
lady may make her own perfume-an
amusement quite as interesting and
more useful than doing crochet, or the
hundred odd ways young ladies have
of killing time in the country, and, it
may be remarked, In this manner she
may get the perfumes pure, which Is far
from being the case at presen Let us
take extract Of heliotrope, for instance,
az It is sold in the store. There Is not
one particle of the flower in H.; vanilla,
| French roses, orange flowers, amber
girls and the essential oil of almonds,
mixed together in certain proportions,
make the imitation known by the name
of extract of heliouOpe. This, in its
way, is fraud as bad as those commit
ted in certain parts Of France, where
they manufacture wine from half q
! dozen different sources, not one drop OF
| the pure wine the mixture is intended
to represent appearing in 1t. Imitation
of honeysuCkle is made up in the
same way. Indeed some of the
orders in use ere made from the most
repulsiVo smelling substances. For in
stance, there Is the artificial otto Of al
monds, which is made from benzole, OF
tar oil. Extracts Of myrtle, narCissus
| lily OF the valley, and several others
! are all innocent of containing the odoi
of the perfume they are made to repre-
sent. Orange flower extract is, on The
other hand, made from the blossom OF
that flower in the same way as the hell
otrope extract.
Otto OF roses is made by distilling the
roses with water. Very large numbers
of roses are used to make the otto--as
many as 1000 blooms TO make one
dracbm. Most OF the otto used in this
country is imported from Turkey
| Musk, strong odor procured from the
musk deer, is very largely used indeed
in the manufacture Of bouquets. AS
la rule, American ladies object
| TO 1t, although we are told that
| the Empress Josephine was so fond
Of it that, notwithstanding the empe-
rOT's circumstances, her dressing room
at Malmaison was flied with IL, the
I perfume not having to the present time
| been oblilerated, Notwithstanding all
the means taken to do so. The best
musk comes from Tonquin and Thibet
| but tho deer is found throughout the
/ whole length of the Himalayan chain
{ Tho scent - found beneath the skin aud
near the naval of the animal, which i.
not bigger than a greyhound, and is
| often caught IN SHARES, though 10 is gen
/ orally hunted as they do hares Some
/ OF the Chinese pictures, indeed, OF the
/ chase OF this valuable animal depict the
/ the Thibetians killing IL with the bow
/ and arrow. Musk in its pure and una
dulterated state Is disagreeably power
] ful-indeed, there are many perfumes
OF vegetable production which one
would exceedingly dislike " used in
their pure condition, especially the OF
| tos. That OF YiOlets, for instance, il
| like prussic acid, and the otto If roses il
very disagreeabie. In nature we know
nothing OF this, because the breeze pre-
sents the odor To us in iniiniteslmally
small proportions, and the perfumer,
| initiating nature by the addition OF
spirit TO the concentrated otto, distrih-
ute II again in gentle eXhalatiOns. II
/ the otto of jasmine, indeed, were used
only millionairos could buy it. The
pertumer stores 10 in tiny little bottles,
and tells you IL is worth $50 an ounce.
The art Of tue perfumer is shown in
delicately combining different scents.
| When We walk In garden the delic-
Gus odUrs that gree!s uIMe by no means
the enHnation Of one flower. All the
blooms NJ the garden, more or less, add
To thelgUIerGl harmony that strlkes 20
gracefully upon the oliacto'y nerves;
they reach us In such infinitely small
particles that no one scent overpowers
the other, When arts attempts TO i'm
itate the diluting effect OF the breeze
she has To be more circumspeci. Only
odors Of similar octave, as a recent
writer has pointed out, viii agree win
each other. Another authority, indeed
has elaborated this idea and has COM
pounded perfect gamut ofodors, begin
ming with ciyet, verbena, and ci,onella
IN the treble clef, and ending with wall.
flower, vanilla, and patchOuly In the
bass clef. The ingenious originator Of
this idea well remarks: "rhe odors
have 10 be remembered, and IL is note
worthy TO remark that OdO 8 do fix
themselves upon the memory, and were
10 not Tor this remembrance Of an odOr
the merchants in the trades md lea ted
would soon be no fault" These deal
ers, on the strength OF their olfactory
nerves, often make purchases amount
ing 20 thousands. The tea merchant,
the tobacco dealer, or the hop merchant
takes one smut at the commodity in
which he deals, and makes his pur-
chase without fault. The writer quo
ted goes on TO say; "An.eNperienCed
periumer will have two hundred odcrs
in his laboratory, ard can distinguish
every one by name. Could a musician
with an instrument OF two hundred notes
distinguish and name every note struck
without seeing the instrumontfn Every
| person, from his own experience, car
/ testify TO another quality which scent
in common with sound possesses.
allude tothe power IL has OF recalling
/ 20 the minds eve the scenes OF Iona
| past years. The mere breath of
/ perfume will often call up pictur,
OF an event, with all It's minuti9
which had long lain dormant in oul
memory.
The composition OF bouquets may
indeed, be considered a fine art, viewed
hN sue NEuk nv WHICH We rNkAIU II
but the scent Is an individual thing
The perfume that scents the blonde by
no means agrees with brunette. There
are differences OF temperament, sgsin,
which require differences OF perfume
To meet young lady OF poetic, spirit.
uelle temperament smelling of musk
would give a shock TO any person OF
delicate tastes, whereas, \ strong
healthy countrywoman, II she select
any perfume At all, would do best "a
use this powerful animal odor. II
would benoiiced that In music we select
those airs which are consonant with our
own temperament. Why should we
not employ our instincts in selecting
peTfumesG As Ii Is, we are mere slaves
OF fashion; because a noted actress
uses a certain bouquet. every store girl
does the sAme-or rather she gets
come sham article, which Is passed
of upon her Tor the real thing. And
this is the easter inasmuoh IA some
flower odors that are plentiful very
much resemble those that are expen.
sive. The syringa, for instance, Is
grown In this country FOR making an
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