Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-10-11

4
the front breadth to the foot, slashed
up the sides to show the velvet panels
just inserted, and falling down beside
these panels 10 the back Of the lower
hreadths. A hem two inches wide
stitched by machine in one or in two
rows finishes this overskirt, which is
carried up in pleats high on each hip,
and falls in straight breadths behind.
In skirts of ladies' cloth the back
breadths may form two box-pleats, but
the more sleazily-woven woollens IN
new dresses now have two straight
hanging back breadths widely shirred
At the top. When striped velvet is
used for panels the material may be cut
across from sclvedge 20 selyedge), and
the two inserted panels will then repre-
sent cross stripes. When more velvet
is to be shown in the skirt, o good plan
is to arrange wide box-pleat from belt
TO foot in front. with four bread.hs only
three eighths Of a yard deep around the
foot of the remainder ofthe skirt. These
breadths are ell first lined with thin
black lawn, and the velvet faced up an
inch upon them at the foot. In some
instances five Of these short breadths
are needed, and those in the back are
gathered like founce. They are
basted in their place at the foot
Of the skirt, and the gathered
seam at their top is covered with silk
tape, or else the edge of the top is
turned under before gathering. The long
wool drapery for such skirt forms
two deep curves, like the half Of fan,
on each side Of the velvet front, and
there are two full-shirred breadths Of
the wool goods hanging straight be-
hind. In former paper were descrip-
tions OF the velvet side breadth that
extends up the left to the belt. With
this are slightly full breadths Of
velvet, usually five in all, sewed
around the lower part Of the skirt, and
new fancy is to drape on this
three wing-like pieces Of wool, each of
which has a velvet revers on one Of its
sides, for an overskirt; one OF these
wings forms an apron, and the others
are set evenly next it to cover all the
upper part Of the foundation skirt. In
the plainest lower skirts, whether of
wool or Of velvet, there is an effort to
give straight effects, and for this reason
the material Of this skirt is sewed on
outside of the narrow foundation skirt,
instead Of being sewed up in its gored
seams. These straight breadths mustnot
be COMPOUNDED with ilounce, but must
represent full lower skirt which is
much narrower than any 1ounce, but
still fuller than the foundation skirt
under it. About foot-pleatings there
is nothing new, as they are put on or
left off at the fancy Of the wearer, and
the economist will not use them unless
they are necessary to cover up the ma
terial of the foundation skirt. In
French dresses it is not unusual to see
a foot.pleating three or four inches
deep Of wool like the draperies set on
silk foundation skirts beneath lower
skirt of velvet.
PLAsTRONS AND REvERs.
Short plastrons with revers are seen
as frequently as long vests on new
dresses. The revers Of wool dresses
are made by turning back the front
edges Of the dress goods from the neck
down to the top of the darts or to the
waist line, facing them outside with the
same goods, putting two rows Of stitch
ing near the edges, and covering the
lining thus exposed with velvet, plush,
or satin, such as is used for the trim
ming. A large or small bow, as the
wesrer prefers, is made Of the goods Of
the inner plastron, and set on at the
point Of the revers. The high collar
matches the plastron, and sometimes
there is an outside collar to match the
revers. The simplest finish at the wrist
of cost-sleeves is considered best taste,
such rs bias fold Of the goods Of the
plsstron stitched inside the wrists and
up an opening of one or two inches Of
the outside seam of the sleeves.
INEXPENSIVE DRESSES.
Now hat wool goods are considered
de rigueur for street suits, since hounces
are dispensed with and plain trimmings |
are preferred to those more elaborate,
the clever home \dressmaker can have
tasteful dresses at small expense.
Seven or eight yards Of strong diagonal
wool, Of ladies' cloth, or Of homcspun,
are enough for tasteful suit for the
street, while the pretty cashmeres at IS
cents yard are heavy enough for SINH
lar dresses for the house. The
combination dresses may even be
made for less money. as rem
nants of striped or figured woollens
or plush for skirts may always be
bought at reduced prices but it is a
better plan to buy new dress entirely
of one material, and afterward, when it
needs refurbishing, it can he used in
with other goods. For
dresses at home or for the
street the wide diagonal serges are in
great favor in dark blue, piomb, green,
dull red, or brown shades, made like
the tailor dresses, with their only
ornament braided collar, plas-
iron, and sleeves. or else velvet used
in the same way. The soft and
fine French cashmeres never 60 entirely |
out of fashion, especially for afternoon
dresses at home. Very light colors are
preferred for such dresses--pale blue,
heliotrope, or tea-rose shades
and these may be made in the same
simple fashions just mentioned, or they
may be made more elaborate by |
gathered fronts OF wool-lace Of the
'ame color or white. There are light
Telvets with white grounds, striped, or
with small figures of dark colors, that
ire to be used for plastrons and panels
when more outlay Of money is allowed.
The Persian AuderuD.
London Society,"
H. e III II. |