The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1885-01-08
MAKING PAPER PATTERNS.

Garments as StylisfIy as Those in the Big
Cities.
One often hears of the severe fashions
Of >tye olden times" of plain skirts and
boaices, fine in material but simply con-
structed, even for 1.-The Sunday best, y
and we can but look in establishment to
see the contrast few years have
brought about. Wondering how this
great revolution had taken place, a re-
porter called on large faShion-house to
make inquiries. Having stated his OBJ
iect, he was conducted to a suite of
rooms, each occupied by number of
pretty girls, all bdsiiy engaged in cut
ting and folding papers.
when dresses became more elabO-
rate, people in moderate circumstances,
little able to afford dresSmakers' bills,
and who yet wanted to keep up with
the fashions of the day, were at loss to
know what to do, till the inventive
genius of man came to the rescue with
paper patterns. This idea gave rise to
a large business, which was taken up
by few companies, generally in COLI
nection with the sale of sewing ma
chimes, thus combining the advertising
power needed for the two departments
Since then several houses have started
independently, and one large firm has
even given up the machine department,
paper patterns having absorbed all the
capital, time, and attention of the COM
papy.
''WiH you tell me how the patterns
are made?"
when a design has been submitted
designing styles is a profession by
itself either made up from paper or
shown from French drawing or plate,
and has been approved, competent fit
tiers initiate the design in cheap muslin,
simply basting the parts together, yet
being extremely careful to obtain a per-
feet and well-fittirg model from which
the pattern may be copied. These
models, to insure sure and stylish
figure, are fitted to live model, who
wears the ghoStly dress till every plat
is properly adjusted and the garment
made TO compare exactly with the Origi-
nal design. This cloth model is then
sent to the descriptiOn-writer, who
carefully rips itapart, at the same time
marking each portion that it may be
exactly replaced from the directions she
writes to accompany each pattern.
Next comes the grader, who takes the
disSected garment and cuts an exact
pattern of each part, putting in all the
notcheS and perforationS as marked
upon the cloth by the deScript!on-writer.
The latter by this time has sent the
directions 10 the printer, who Is fast
making ready the envelopes TO hold the
pattern when completed"
''How are they made to Gt different
persons?"
The grader, who has system of
measurement known only to the pro-
feSSion. prepares separate patterns or
duplicates of the garment properly en-
larged or diminished to suit both great
and small. He sends these paste-board
patterns of the different sizes to the
cutters. who stand before large tables
with immense sheets of tissue paper in
layers of fifty spread before them. The
pattern is then marked upon them and
cut with large shears, and then is
handed to girls. who with trained fin
ders rapidly fold and place them in
the envelopes now in waiting
Much art work is required in an eS-
adjustment of this kind, as the cloth
model, after fitting, has TO be sketched
Dy skillful artists. who are to bring out
in the most graceful manner the curves,
folds, and various novelties represented
in the fashion, TO make as acceptable 4
wood-cut as possible to Use in the illus
trated catalogue, upon the envelopes
and ether advertising mediums. Most
houses issue fashion paper, 4 few spicy
and catching notes from the outer
. world helping the circulation of what
without these would be pure adver-
Using sheet"
Are These patterns much sought
after?"
Over million of patterns are sold
yearly by one house, agencies being es-
tablished all over the world. though it
Is conceded that the most substantial
orders are from the growing West and
from towns where the facilities for OBJ
tanning reliable STYLES are few ard fee
BILE. A love of being Ia mode lies
either latent or expressed in the heart
% every woman, and to the favored
ones living in the city n walk down the
leading street or avenue brings to the
mind of both young and old some new
idea of dress. with which the country
girl can only be blessed by the advent
of city visitor or by the fashion papers
brought by the kindly mails. These
papers are eagerly waited for and
graSped on their arrival. Each new
style is conEed and criticised. and the
want of the heart filled and happiness
made complete by the knowledge that
a few cents will bring the requisite pat
Tern and full directions for the making
of the garment desired.
How many new styles are brought
out month";
From fifteen to sixty new STYLES are
manufactured monthly, and these some
times form nucleus for two hundred
page magazine partially made up of
stories. articles on art decoration. prac-
tical housekeeping. etc, forming still |
another solid mediUm for farther circu- |
1ation of the STYLES manufactured. Twice 1
a wear styles are KILLED in order to |
keep the stock reduced tO the proper |
number. The undesirable fashions are |
easily detected or examining the orders. |
which reveal sometimes a tickle and |
chaagcable public taste. 4 stroll |
through an establishment like this de- |
SeTibed is interesting as illustrating a |
manufacture well repaying the happy |
invention of the discoverer of want |
dong felt and supplied with the little
obl0nC envelopes containing the mystic
rioaS angles, carveS- and curious shapes
Of brown TISSUE. dotted and notched.
called paper patterns N J. Mall and
cypress.