Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-01-31
How Fashions Change.

From Harper's Weekly
The greatest sport amid the merry Christmas
frolic in certain house was the appearance Of
grandpa in his wedding suit. Through ever so
many years it had been carefully preserved, and
it was agreed with hilarious unanimity that if
the suit which fifty years ago was the most
fashionable and distinguished in Broadway
should now appear In that street it would raise
an uproar of amaZement and delight from
Central Park to the Battery. Fifty years ago
some of the same eyes that would look upon it
to-day would have remarked 1t with admira-
ton and envy. But now it would appear to
them the most grOtesQue and outlandish of gar
ments.
Who has made the change? Fifty years ago
the bucks, asthe golden youth of the time were
called wore the high-collared surtout or the
brOadcaped top-coat. Their necks were swathes
In ample white cTayatS. and their manly breast
were covered with the ample ruffie of the shirt
OIL can see those swe1iS In the Illustrations of
Tom and Jerry IN LOnCiOn from which work one
OF the famous coats OF the time was named. If
a Senator should rise to address the Senate in a
great debate in such suit as Mr.. Webster wore
when he replied to Hayne and earned his title
OF Defender of the Constitution. or on any other
OF his great days. the press from one end of the
country to the other would ring with chatting
laughter ut the Honorable Bog Logic or Colonel
Sellers Yet Mr.. Webster wore only the trad-
tional whig colors. buff and blue, and he was
Clad only as Charles James Fox would have ap-
peared had he been an American Senator
Who has lowered that mighty coat collar and
abolished the ample crayat and dismissed the
blue dress coat with brass buttons? Who, a
little earlier banshed breeches. and drew the
long trouser over the lower leg. and abjured
top-boOts? Who is it that makes coat-sleeves
tight this year and loose next year. and or,iains
that to-day the refinement of elegance shall be
white waistcoat at din Ter. and that tomorrow
a white waistcOat at dinner shall be iulicrously
old fashioned? What despot of absolute and
unqucsti0ned sway now expands the skirts OF
woman to the form and amplitude of diving
bell. and anon draws them in so closely that NV
lady could only limp. not dance over London
bridge? Was it last week that the young men
were all in boots with toes as square as honesty
while this week they skim and saunter in shoes
as pointed as somebody IS innuendOes? Who does
1t all. Who is the magician? Who ever sees the
waving of his wand? How is the transformation
accomplished?
The American fashions, we used to be told
come from Europe. But who makes the fashion
there When all English and French handles
are wearing high collars. who is it that turns
down his collar with such authority that two
continents instantly turn down their collars
Ii was answered that the taIlors made the
changes. The tailOrs make the clothes, but a
change in form or style by the tailor would not
change the fashion. IL he should change the
cut OF a coat for lawyers clerk the fashion
would not change, but the lawyers clerk would
be out OF fashion. The tailor as an artist NAV
have the highest taste and the utmost skill and as
tailor he may wish that new fashion would
produce a demand for new clothes. But he has
no social authority. He can only serve him who
has 1t was Prince Hamlet who was the glass
OF fashion and the mold of form. If D'Orsav
amid universal white craFats. should appear in
black satin scarf all the dandies would
hurry to wear black satin. Tens of thousands
OF loyal Brit0ns may leave off gloves; but they
are merely queer. and gloves are still essential
The Prince of Wales may saunter along the
street without gloves, aud Immediately glove
lessness is the only good form"
This is the secret of fashion. 1t is the prac-
tica of a recognized social leader. The London
World says that no instance can be mentioned
OF a SOCIAL change or fashion introduced by the
Prince of Wales which has not been instantly
adopted by those around him. and gradually by
the general mass OF his future subjects This
is true OF dress, manners and social arrange
ments. Society" says the World cannot
organize Itself without the standard of pro-
priety furnished by Marlborough House." 1t
is some Prince or other social leader then who
lowered those lofty bulwarks OF collars of
which grandpa's wedding coat offered so ex-
tra0rdinary an Illustration. 1t was said that
movement which was continued to the ut
most confines OF the sea. The within or the
comfort of one exalted or dandiaca parsonage
may likewise, i'm the cut of a coat or the form
OF shoe. go round the world. Unconsciously
even we republicans subjects Of q King
and the severe and scorniul defer OF the a,l-
thOrty of the British Crown deiies it in a coat
whose "cut" is docile acknowledgment of
that Crowns resistless power. The influence
OF a social leader is shown in nothing so strongly
as IN lis ability TO make two continents wear
clothes cut as he chooses.