davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
WHERE STYLES COME FROM.
Interview with Man Who Gets Up Men,
Fashion Plates.


"We are always on the lookout for some.
thing new" says writer In the american
Tailor. Sometimes we get suggestion
or hint from tailor or other person, and
will work on it till We produce something
acceptable. After getting suggestions from
tailors and Others and considering them,
perhaps getting the view of lady, we go
of and do as many newspaper men do, net
as we please 1t is well enough to get the
ideas of others, but when we como down to
work We have to boss the job and use our
own ideas. II is one of those businesses in
which there is no well-defned method as to
originating styles. Observation and study
are required. Formerly changes were made
In February for spring and summer styles,
and in August for fall and winter, and the
greatest changes are still made ct these
periods. The trade for the past ten years,
at least has, however, not been content with
but two plates per year, and must now have
them quarterly, many Of the foremost de-
Inanding them monthly. The great changes
are in the spring and fall, however, and the
others ore notifications or improvements
on them, not radical changes. The bust.
ness of making style has increased greatly
within the past few years, and there are O
number at it, but the bulk Of it is done by
two or three houses. OF course, there is
not so much change in style demanded by
gentlemen us by ladies'. No, we do not gel
mp any styles for particular sections of the
country. When we publish the plates they
nre sent to every portion of the country,
and sometimes 1t is found that one style will
become popular in one section and another
in another section, but, as rule, the tastes
are rs much different in one section as an
other. There ore about $4,000 merchant
tailors of standing in the country-those
who keep q stock and are fully up TO the
times, having the best goods--and with them
the fashion magazines have come to be na
essential as the newspaper. Such progress
have we made that even Europeans are
adopting our patterns. Formerly the rep.
rasentative merchant tailor might be said to
be son of poor parents, receiving pattern
plates twice year, and being fully satisfied.
Now, however, the merchant tailor is not
content with even the quarterly plates issued,
and it is surprising those Of other countries.
They are now ever alive for something new,
to have not only the latest patterns fo- their
customers, but the latest improvements Of
tools and conveniences for their business.
Some were content few years ago with
modest, unassuming places of business, but
now the merchant tailor has as fine an es-
tablishmont as any tra9esman."
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
WHAT is a CREOLE :


What is Creole " asks New Orleans
letter-writer. Mr.. Cable has not taken pains
to define the word, outside Of giving US in
his writings series of character sketches
under its caption. But the accepted idea OF
Creole in the South is not the idea &C.
cepted in the North and even In New Or
leans, the home of the class, or classes, of
" Creoles," the worlds variously interpreted.
can learn nothing of the analogy of the
term by inquiry, and have no reference
books at hand to consult on the subject, but
have learned that true "Creole" may
be either one of mixed race, French and
black, or any other product of Louisiana
amalgamation, or pure French, or pure
black, born here. Another idea Is that any
person born in New Orleans is 90 Creole,n
just as an Illinois child is ''Suker or an
Iowan " Hawkeye !" and, again, person
speaking the French language impurely, or
with negro accent, is opprobriously called o
Creole " in the local French schools. So,
while some citizens will proudly claim to
be Creoles," or of the old Creole race
others never use the expression except as
reproach. Is IL any wonder, then, that, in
bis delineations of SO mixed an idea of
mixed race, Mr.. Gable himself has become
mixed in his endeavors to please this mixed
population, his old friends and neighbors
-" Creoles" allP In no quarter of his
own city, New Orleans, is Mr. Gable, the
novelist, popular as an author can dis
cover but one reason for this fact, and that
is that he has classified his people Alright in
the characters he has created, with models
close ut hand for copies. We do not always
love to be arranged in our proper social
spheres, even by the deft hand of novel
ist. Where man belongs and where he
thinks he belongs are widely diverse matters
in the world of society. Not Creole is
there of any shade ip New Orleans who does
not feel IN aristocratic tendency, and still
Mr.. Cable has dared to give them middle
and lower stations only ip life and in his
books. Hence his uppopulafity. Dickens
encountered like criticism in London. Was
II not Holland who said that every man oc-
cupies tripodal (if this ID new word ex-
cuse it) in society first, as the nah thinks
heis second, as the man other people be.
lieve him to be, and third, as the man he
really is before his Maker?
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
Constructing a Decreasing C,imc.

"Not 80 much counterfeiting is going on
now as there was five or six years ago." re.
marked Marshal Monroe recently. "Ths
manufacturers and showers of the queer
have come to realize that if the nefarious
trade is carried on any length of time, de-
lection is almost certain. We have captured,
convicted and sentenced between thirty and
forty counterfeiters during the past four
years, and all the old gangs have been brok-
IN up. The new generation of counterfeit
srs are mostly country boys, who in their
simplicity, believe that they can handle the
bogus coin without fear of detection OF
punishment. They are almost invariably
captured before they have realized from
their investments. The old conyicts, who
make the coin in some secret place after
serving their time in prisons for past crimes,
ire either captured or rope in other inno-
,ents, who, in turn, trade in the stuff and
get caught. The maker of the coin is sooner
or later captured as well as the boys who
handle 1t. But the people are rapidly learn
ing they cannot counterfeit the coin of the
realm with impunity, and with few more
yeara of vigorous enforcement of the laws
violation Of the laws in this respect Will be
almost unknown in this section of the coun
try.n-- Grand Rapids Leader.
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
THE PEoLEs' ENVIRONMENTS.


Four Great Classes Into Which all the
Toiiers Of the Land NIny be Divided.
General Francis A. Walker, In his lecture
on The Occupations of American People"
at the Lowell Institute last evening, said
that the census of 1880 gave the total mum
Der Of persons engaged in occupations o,
1882, 099, being Bags per cent. of the en-.
tire population and 47.31 per cent. Of the
population Of ten years and upward, the
total number of the latter being SO, 761 GOT.
In 1870 the number of those in occupations
was IL, sos, 953, being 50. 43 per cent of the
total population, and 43. so per cent. of the
population above ten years Of age. The dj
vision of the grand total Of 1880 among the
four principal classes of occupations was as
| follows: .e
Total number OF occupations. .......,. 1892, 0A
frofessionsi and personal service
Trade and transportation. ........... 1,s10,256
Manufacturing, mining, and mechani-
cal inoustfies. '.,.............-...... 3,s3I,l
| The number of persons of ten years of
age and upward was 1928 per cent greater
in 1880 than 1870. Throughout the country
largely in excess of the increase of popula-
iop. This was due to the extension Of the
factory system and the increased employ.
ment OF young children. In great grain.
growing States the tendency was to restrict
the number of bread winners in cotton
raising and manufacturing States the num-
Der tended to enlarge; in mining and graz
ing States the tendency was still more mark
ed. The lecturer had thrown upon the
screen OF the back Of the platform stere-
optican view of q table showing the COM
parative increase in occupations and in
population in each State and Territory be-
tween 1870 and 1880. The number of per-
sons engaged in mechanical and manufac-
turing occupations in 1880 wns % per cent
Of all occupations Of the census of that year.
The largest body of artisans of one class
were the carpenters, and they numbered
in 1880, 373, 900. The number of coopera
is scarcely larger now than in 1880. A large
advance had been made in the number of
those engaged in mining and mechanical
pursuits. The number of lawyers had not
| differed A, 900 from the number of lawyers
since 1850. The number OF teachers and
dentists has greatly increased. The statisticf
Of domestic services were most Interesting |;
with all the increase Of luxury throughout
the country, though the population has in.
creased thirty per cent, yet the number Of
domestics has increased only ten per cent.
This was probably due to the fact that much
of the work formerly done by domestics is
now done by outsiders, such as bakers and
others, with machinery and skilled work.
men, who supply the home with all neces-
saries. The domestic service Of this coun-
| try and that Of England wsre compared. In
England not less than one In every three
girls between the ages Of fifteen and twenty
years 10 domestic servant Boston 1ran-
] Nript.
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
Civil Service.

Civil Service examining rooms Ex-
aminer Cooking over John Smiths papers,
This man has made bad bctch of this
mathematical question. Principal Examiner
What is the question. Examiner (read-
ing)-H I owe William Jones $65, and
promise to pay him S5 per month, how
much will / owe him at the end Of a year 7
Principal Examiner-well, what did he
answer Examiner-He has it $65. Prin-
cipal Examiner-That man is natural
born government clerk; already has their
traits. Mark him 100. - Washington
Hatchet.
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22
Pninfal suspense.

My DEAR" he said as he entered the
house, "who is that gentleman across the
street ?" II am not sure, but ! think he
is an old beau of mine" Chow long has
he been waving his handkerchief ?" Oh,
more than half an hour" :" Is he trying
to fiirt with your" That's just what an
noys me. He may mean it for me, or for
the lady in the bay window above. If it's
for me I ought to know it, and If it's for
her I'll never speak to the shame-faced thing
again as long as live Oh, GeorgeI you
don't know how vexatious and uncertain it
Is to have roomers above you wish we
had little cottage of our own. - Detroit
Free preas
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22

A Georgia editor printed in his paper .
picture of himself carrying big pistol in
either hand, dagger in his mouth and two
daggers and a sword in his belt Next day
when he saw .awoman enter his Office with
danger in her eye and horsewhip in her
right hand he jumped ont of second
story window and concealed himself in .
woodshed. -Nmristopn Journal.
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22

The Manhattan Life Insurance Company
has queer case on hand of a man who
wants life policy void to spite his sister.
The policy was taken out twenty-five years
ago without his knowledge or consent by
his father for the benefit of the sister, and
since the death of the former, in 1879, the
latter has paid the premiums. The insured
insists that his sister has no insurable inter-
est in his life and is willing to pay the COM
pany all it will have to refund her, but he
wants the policy cancelled. It is an interest
Ing question which the courts will have to
answer.
The Lambertville record. [volume] (Lambertville, N.J.) 1872-1968, 1885-04-22

Bring your pictures and have them
framed at A. H. Titus, 83 N. Union st.,
while you do your shopping. A. 15-8t
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
BROCKwAY CENTRE MARKET

Reports corrected every Wednesday by o. w
Mills
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
A Plea for the Librarv.

/ hear the oft repeated question,
"Why is the library closed ?" Perhaps
the members of the association need
to be informed. 1t is evident what is
the business of everyone is the direct
business of no one unless he be proper
ly authorized. The brief history Of
the association is known to you all,
how. after persistent effort, about one
hundred and thirty volumes have
been purchased, the reading of which
the majority of the members enjoy.
Still they are not sufficiently interest
ed to attend a meeting for the purpose
of electing officers, only one member
present besides the librarian, therefore
Mrs. Bell decided to give out no more
books until some action is taken.
Must our library go down? Are we so
far behind our fellow menp Ours is
now an incorporated village, not how
ever, without master-hand at the
helm, and a good force in reserve
Will they let the charter sink into OBJ
livion at the end of one year? Must
our library, simply for want of action.
be closedp If there be stumbling
block remove it. One lady, whose
name we will not mention. has striven
against all odds and to the extent of
her ability to keep up interest in the
association; but has evidently failed.
She gladly steps aside to let others
take hold who are better qualified and
no doubt will succeed, If they only
try. Let US not be remiss In this good
work. Surety there Is ''balm in
Gilead." MRS. II. F. LEONARD.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Bargains in Dry Lumber.

Parties wishing to build would do
well to call on Welch & Son at their
mill in Peck where they have on hand
one and one-half million feet of dry
lumber OF all kinds. We sell hemlock
lumber from S4 to So per thousand and
pine from SIS to $40 common. Choice
clear $50 to $50 according to quality.
We always have on hand all kinds of
house joist, flooring, wainscoting, sid
ing, moulding, lath, in fact everything
necessary for building purposes, also
one million shingles. We have open
ed lumber yard at our farm one mile
south of Brockway Centre where we
will keep on hand all the about quail
ties OF lumber, &C.. which we will sell
very low. 32 s. 0. WEIGH & Son.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16

For SALE-.sn open buggy nearly
new for sale at bargain. Call and
sea it,. Is ID. ORSER.
FoR SALE One or two good horses,
inquire OF G. f.. Roswell, Brockway
Centre. 46
For SALE--3 good work horses. 9
COWS, 20 sheep, yearlngs. II buggy,
single and double harness. | wagon, n
lot of farm implements cheap Tor cash
or approved endnraed notes.
4Ilf TnOS. HOLDEN.
NOTICE The BrqckwaY House and
80 acres of land will lee sold or traded
for farm property and pn,spSs ION given
during mouth of May 1885. If hotel
IS not sold it will be 10 rent. 4Sw5
GEO. w. & y. MCCLELLAN.
Props.
NoTICE-I hereby notify all parties
not tu purchase or have anything 10
do with Il note given by me 10 w. ).
Moore as the debt for which il WAS
given was fraudulent ami have not
received value tor the same.
Brockway Centre, April II. 1885,
4sw3 ISAAC MCLAUGHLIN.
CARD OF THANKS Tie undersign-
cd wish to tender their sincere thanks
TO their neighbors and other friends
who worked SO hard ia saving their
property at the fire which occurred
March 31st and feel grateful toward
them FOR saving what furniture and
other property they did
Mr.. AND Mrs JOHN WILSON.
NOTICE-Sealed proposals will be
received unit! 4 o'cloS, the 2Jth of
April 1885,, to build school house in
dist No. >, township Of Speaker, SAM
lac Co. Plans and specification can bo
seen ut James Raeen's. The commit
tee reserve the right 20 reject any or
all bids. 4Sw2 JAMES RAGl;N.
Chairman Committee.
NOTICE--Sealed proposals, bonds
for building "A frame
school house, 2Sx3S #. in dist. No. |,
Township of Lynn, County of st Clair
and state Of Michigan, will be recsiv-
ed 10y the undersigned committee.
until May 10Th, lSs5. Plans and speci-
fications may be seen at the residence
of Simon Murphy. The committee
reserve the right 10 reject any and all
bids. 4Sw2 GEO GLASSFORD,
JOHN IJOUGHTON,
SIMON MURPHY.
Committee
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16

We made a mistake in the date
of the late Mr.. and Mrs. JOS. Lanes
obituary in regard to when they came
to this town. 1t should have read
1882 instead of 1852. They had been
in this country SO years.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
How Mr.. Palmer came to be Insulted d

Two or three Of our citizens who
favored inc irporatiOn, in a conversa-
ton with Mr.. Palmer, agreed that a
few from each party corporationists
and anti-corporationists--should meet
in Mr.. I.eonards store on Tuesday
evening to talk over the matter Of
village election; but as it was report
ed on Tuesday that there would be a
general cancus, the cOrporationists re-
fused to attend, thinking that the
undergraduates had or intended to
put up job on them. If they had
not been mislead by the report they,
of course. would have met as they
agreed. We are sorry that this misun-
derstanding and consequent insult to
Mr.. Palmer's highness occurred.
SQUIRE.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Notice of Election.

An election will be held in Dulles
hall in the village OF Drociiway Centre
on the Goth day Of April 1885. for the
purpose Of elecJing the following Of
ticers which shall constitute u village
council and other offices OF said village
Of Brockway Centre. A president.
six trustees. three for term of two
years and three for one year, or until
the next general election, one clerk,
one one Treasurer, one street
commissioner, one assessor, and one
constable.
BrocKway Centre, April 3rd, 1886.
JNo w. LAMoN, III. +. LEONARD.
JAMES BROWN, j. G. HOLDEN.
w. y. MCKENNA.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
BRoCKWAY CENTRE County, Mich, APRIL

NOTICE is hereby given. That tn.
board OF registration will meet in
Duties hall on Friday and Saturday
the nth and 18th days of April 1885
for the purpose of registering votes
for the first election of officers of the
village Of Brockway Centre.
Brockway Centre, April 3rd, 1885.
j. ID. JONES, .JNo. w. LAMON,
JAMES Brown.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Auction sales-c. w. Bssl,. AuctlOneer.

The undersigned will offer for sale
at his residence in Roseburg on Tues
day, April, 2lst, 1885 Gt one o'clock. q
lot of farming implements, stock, &c.
john MATTHEWS.
AUCTION SALE-Wm Reddicliffe,
will sell for the under
signed ut his farm in Peck. on Monday.
April 20. 1885,. u lot Of horses, cows,
mowers, redperS, &c.
HENRY EANNEST.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Price, 90 a Year.
JUST RECEIVED !

The place to buy and get fit
In Slippers, Boots and Shoes,
Both standard. screw and solor tip,
Friends listen IT, the news
The soior tips for boys and girls,
Can rever be exceed
They stand the test the wide world Ger,
None others can we sell.
In gents fine shoes it's said to be
The only place in town
Where you button, lace and congress see
With prices marked way down.
Our ladies' shoes are hard to beat
In styles and prices too.
Ladies wanting something good and neat,
Wear Smith, Simmons & Peabold's shoe
Again we have Pingrie & Smiths
Of which we have control.
To they that know their merits.
These cnly will console
In boots for men and boys we carry
As large stock as others,
With some of the best make in the East.
The place is Holden Bros
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
IMPOR rANT.

When You visit or leave New York City save
Baggage Expressage and Carriage Hire and stop
at the Grand Union Hotel opposite Grand Con-
tral Depot.
Elegant rooms fitted up at a cost of one million
dollars, reduced 10 81 and upwards per day.
European plan. Elevator. Restaurant supplied
with the best, Horse cars. stages and elevated
railroad TO all depots, Families can live better
for less money at the Grand Union Hotel than at
any other first-claS hotel in the city.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Bucklen's ArIlica salyc.

The best salve in the world for cuts, bruises
sores. ulcers, salt rheum. fever sores, letter,
chapped hands, chilblsins, cnrns, and all
skin eruptions, and positivly cures piles, or
no pay required. II is guaranteed TO give
perf.ct satisfaction, or mouay refunded.
Price % cents per box. For sale bv w. n.
ucKeun9
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
MARRIED.

COLLINS CLARK In Brockway Centre. on We'd
nesday, April s, 1885, by Rev. l.. Clark, John
Collins to Miss Roxa Clark, both Of this place.
The happy couple left the morning OF their
marriage for Tennessee on their wedding tour.
May their journey through life be one Of pleasure
and UrDsneritv
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16

expect their spring stock on in a
few days and will have change of
adv. next week.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16
Thousands Say So.

Mr.. T. l.. Atkins, Glrsrd, Kan, writes !:
l never nesta'e to recommend your Electric
Bitters to nav customers, they give entire sat.
isfsotion aud are rapid sellers" Electric
Bitters are the pureet and best medicine
known and will positively cure Kidney and
Liver complaints. Purify the blood aud re-
gulste the bowels. No family can afford to
be without tham. They will save hundreds
ot dollars in Doctors bills every year. Sold
at 80 cents bottle by w. N. McKenhs.
Weekly expositor. (Brockway Centre, Mich.) 1882-1894, 1885-04-16

John ID. Jones received check
for s., 900 insurance due John Wilson
and paid the same to the latter named
party this week. Mr.. Jones represents
good companies and they always pay
their losses promptly.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1885-04-28
LOCAL BREVITIES.

/ The alarm of fire about o'clock TINS
evening was false-as usual.
The regular semi. monthly meeting OF the
/ City Council will be held to night
Mr.. John Critcher jr, Of this city, was
yesterday admitted to the bar OF Wasn'ng-
ton.
The funeral of the late Capt. James lden,
| took place this morning and was largely al
| tended
A cow fell in one of the canal locks few
days ago and had not been gotten out TINS
evening.
The gardens in the city are looking fresh
and green, having been refreshed and ben
Gifted by the recent rain.
Fine shad, caught by the OILERS in the
river Just below the city, are being sold
about the streets at from 90 to 60 cents
pair.
A marriage license was issued in Wash
ington, Yesterday to E. Hulchman, of Fair.
fax county, and Margaret Travers, of this
city.
Among the graduates of the medical de-
partment of The University of Georgetown
this session is Mr.. Edwin Buchanan, of this
city.
Captain w. G. Dutton, Grand Worthy
Chief Ternpar of the State, will pay an
official visit to Golden Light Lodge, of this
city, tonight.
A steam pump and two steam derricks
have arrived at Georgetown, and will IN
short time begin work removing the rocks
from the bed of the river at that place.
The writer of the local to which Teach.
er" takes exception in last nights GAZETTE
is unable to understand how anybody could
be mislead by it. The passing of the Uni
versity Local Examination is unquestion-
ably one Of The ways by which free admis-
sion to the University can be obtained. AS
he was writing about that examination only,
be did not think it necessary, or even peril
nent, to explain other methods of ellecting
the same end
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1885-04-28

THE COUNTY COURT held its April term
yester day-Judge James Sangster presid-
ing.-The case of the Com. vs.. Nathan
Penthal for violation Of the revenue law, in
selling whiskey without a license, was tried,
aud the accused acquitted. After attending
to some probate business the court ad-
iourued