Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-02-14


AND PLAIN SKIRTS, ETC.
GILT AND STEEL WORK will be used freely
In new millinery goods this spring, in laces
aigrettes and flowers
BRONZE COLOR is used in combination with
yellow. pink. pale blue and green.
THE PRETTIEsr of the plaid ginghams have
the design seen in fine wool plads and are i'm
ported in all Of the newest colors in large small
and medum-sized checks
ELEGANT FANS of white satin with wild
roses painted upon them. Others are covered
with white black laces. The handsomest
feather fans are mounted on tortoise-shell
sticks.
NEW DRESS SLEEVES are longer and some
what wider without the raised fullness at the
Z. oulder-
The BROADSAILoR COLLAR is worn by small
girls and boys alike, with ties made of soft silks
cut on the bias and tied in huge bow.
BROCADED FELvETS have had their day. and
their popularity IS on the wane. Plain velvets
are now considered richer for using with PLANE
materials for combination costumes and
wraps.
The FAvoRITE BRIDAL COUTURE has loose
puffs of hair on the crown of the head with
wayy rings over the brows and short curls at
the nape of the neck. The orange blossoms
form a wreath across the puffs.
PRETTY ''JABoT COLLARS" are imported for
shape, covered with white, pink OF blue crepe
decline, with the edge bOrdered with gilt cord
and chenille. n jabot of valenciennes or orien-
tai lace is fastened at the throat and falls half
way to the belt of the dress.
AMONG the latest novelties are the fine Scotch
ginghaIns which are embroidered all over the
grounds in small dots or blocks; thus, white is
embroidered on blue ground: pale blue on
dark blue and red or blue ecru surface.
Other new goods have Roman stripes on white
ground.
WAIsT-LININGs of selicia cut out any size de-
sired can be purchased at first-class dry-goods
houses, by ladies who wish to do their OWE
dressmaking and avoid the bother of being
fitted.
BLACK SILK OR SATIN DRESSES are greatly
improved by wearing with them girdles made
Of handsome passementeries or of jet. Girdles
made o. lrideScent beads are worn with blue
or garnet silk and velvet toilets.
FEATHERS are not largely imported; they
have been worn so long and at all seasons of the
fear that something newer is desirable, and the
scarfs Of etamine or of surah are TO be used in
stead, especially for trimming round hats.
Clusters of flowers will be employed for summer
bonnets.
BODICEs are cut low in two wavs-the one is
high on the shoulders and pointed nearly to the
waist, both front and back: and the other is
moderately low, front and back. but falls over
the shoulders. Invisible sleeves, or mere straps,
are worn In both cases, but a little band, like
armlet, is sometimes added TO the shoulder
strap, In mock apology for the sleeve ii so poor
Iy represents. Then there is triangle lace
sleeVe, unGer the arm only, with its points
Joined by a brooch or flower over the arm. All
these sleeves are most becoming to pretty
arm.
THE NEW SPRING corkscrew cloths intended
for streercostumes of light weight without
luster, and will be generally preferred to the
glossy broadclOths, tricotines and the twiIled
plson cloths Plain, striped and figured vel
vets will be used with these cloths for vests
panels. Iv i'm
prove them.
PARTY DRESSES for little girls are made of
cream-cOlored cashmere and surah combined.
The dress has a box pleated skirt, and the waist
Is tight-fitting, with loose Turkish vest of the
suran- CreaIn-coiored oriental lace falls over
the vest and cuffs, and quantities of creamy
satin ribbons are tied in bows and loops, and
form the sash
MOYENAGE DESIGNS and moyenage colors are
the new features to be brought out in spring
millinery. Scarfs, handkerchiefs wide ribbons
and the fabrics for making bonnets are enbla-
zOned TO initiate medieval banners with her
sIdlc designs eln6lems, conventionaliZed flow
ers, tre1o1l- and other quaint decorations of the
middle ages.
IMMENSE ToURNUREs are nows worn at the
back. There is need to wear steels, how
ever, either in the dress or in the understands
On the contrary, Worth, and other great dress
makers in Paris, will not make dress for any
lady who wears steels. Both the dress and the
undersktrts are made so full at the back and
tlt inning OF the OfeSS Skirt so nrm, that no
steels are required even with plain skirts
boon for which, under circumstances. we can
not be too thankful. Steels worn only by
ladies VINO cannot afford to have their dresses
made by master of the art. and who have
TO substitute ungraceful ugliness for graceful
elegance.
The NEW FABRIC for millinery is unbleached
etamIne-a light, soft cotton canvas that is not
pretty of itself, bat is susceptible of much deco
ration by having printed bayadere stripes
across IL In Inc heraIdlc designs; there are also
gIded and silvered threads drawn through its
Pquare meshes TO form other stripes: and these
Iaminated stripes are further varied by having
SILK threads added to them in old red, blue and
rose shades.
THE COMING SPRING will bring some very
fine and silky wooden goods to be made up into
simple toilets, of which the following is type:
Plain skirt OF lizard green velvet, with an over
skirt and hlgn shiTred corSage of lizard green
T6ol OF lighter tint than that of the velvet
Ihe cOrsage Is held by very wide belt almost
eeorselet, of velvet Ike that OF the skirt The
SleeVes are long and somewhat full, and have a
veiVet cum. The Overskirt Is almost as long as
the velvet skirt. 1t is slashed on the left side
and the bottom of the front slopes upward on
the hip.
FoR MORE ELABORATE SPRING TOILETS
many second skirts of wooden lace will be worn
over SILK skirt OF different color. This wooden
lace IS made in all colors, and will be worn in
she oay tlme, and even on the street, ia colOrs
tiat are not too light. The lace second skirt is
mounted on short round skirt of silk plain on
the front, and trimmed at the bottom with sew
eTal runles, the lace skirt reaching to the first
o. tnen. In some cases, in place OF a skirt in
one piece, there viii be several founces of the
same coarse wooden lace
SCARFs, six or seven inches wide. and a ward
ana "a half long, are imported for trimming hats
ana oonnets. They are made Of etamine the
new canvas fabric, or else of silk surah and on
these appear the moyenage cOiOrs and designs
printed on cross stripes alternating with plain
srlpes Ihere are also many handkerchiefs OF
nr.fh fsS hot
TWO eolors ali through the center while the bor-
DER Is stamped with the new colors and figures
or ~ may De there are figures in the corners
only while the border Is plain These are to he
Used on round hats with their four corners Gins
Tered together IN upright points. or they are 10
eerve "a bonnet crowns, with the points or ends
tied in a large bow.
HARPER5 BAzAR says: The general designs
Tor spring suits is that of short basaues with
long drapery and plain lower skirts, and this
suggestion is given alike in dresses of one
Iaorfc or for combinations of two materials
Inc upper L; r OF the dress viii be OF plain
goods, with Inquired stufIs for the trimming and
Tor the lower skirt. The short plain BASQUE OF
with velvet in front and back alike: Sometimes
the veives forIns short curved or pointed
pIastron, while in other dresses il extends to
tne waist line Ike vest in front, and this is re-
peated IN the middle forms of the back
hevers or oretelles of the wool goods edge the
lnIald velvet, and these revers are sonnet nes
covered with braid. Polka basoues for the
house are very similar in shape to the Jackets
used over them for the street; they extend
plainly over the hips, but are quite short
reaching only three four inches below the
wals, line In the back, where they are shortest,