Wessington Springs herald. (Wessington Springs, Aurora County, Dakota [S.D.]) 1883-1891, 1885-11-27
FOR AMATEUR DRESSMAKERs.
Fashion Hints Which Can BE Observed
Without Difficulty.

rash1on hints Which Can BE Observed
Without Difficulty.
The amateur dressmaker who OBJ.
serves new basques closely will see that
the darts are now carried up very high,
in the English fashion, and are nearer
together at the waist line, giving, with
the narrow double side forms, the slen-
der and ~long-waisted appearance which
has come into vogue with English fash
ions. The high officers collar band
with its buckram interlining is also
conducive to the severe military effect
now sought after, as it keeps the chin
up, and requires a plain linen collar, or
else folds, in preference to frills, with q
very simple brooch, to complete it's de-
sirab!e plain style. The shoulder seams
are of medium length, and the sleeves
are set IN "easy," as seamstresses say,
being sewed always with the sleeves
pext the sewer, vet without the gathers
that made them high and buuchy last
year. A large arm-hole with we'll
rounded sleeve, with its inner seam set
straight down the middle of the arm its
entire length. will have the proper and
comfortable fit. In skirts Ill tied back
appearance is avoided, and the covering
over the hips is not nearly SO smooth
as formerly; there are still, however,
tapes at the back and steels as described
last week, but these are only meant to
hold the foundation skirt in place, while
the lower skirt and its draperies are
made to look very full. Worth begins
to lengthen basques on the sides in
peplum fashion, though the preference
here is for very short sides to basques.
A pretty fashion with Worth is that of
making a plated faille guimpc inside
the front of velvet or plush basques.
with the top part of the velvet waist
turned down in revers, and the plated
faille guimpe inside the front extending
from the collar to the top Of the darts
under the reVefs, pendent beads, balls,
or tiny Jassels are set gu the pla'ts.
The home dress-maker who attempts
to make outside garments is advised to
have a short mantle, because 1T is most
easil, made, and 10 use the thick cloths,
either rough Astrakhans or the smooth
cloths that have y tufted wrong side, be-
cause these need not be lined. Ii a
wadded silk lining is preferred, it is
economical to buy the lining already
"ttNlOpu Huu QulISCu duu III ~
thinner camel s-hair cloth that may be
had fov two dollars or three dollars a
yard. The fine thick cloths that need
40 lining cost five dollars Il yard, but
only a yard and a half are required Tor
the mautle. For jackets, the sleeves
should be lined with satin, to make them
easy II get Off or on. The seams OF
cloth garments should be trimmed
evenly, moistened with a damp CLOTH
and pressed open with a hot iron: Inc
edges should then be bound neatly with
silk tape. The trimming should not DC
bought until the mantle is made ana us
edges measured, AS such trimmings
whether of fur. feathers or fringe, are
costly, and it is Wasteful to ,buy even
an eighth of a yard more than IS want
ed Brocaded velvet NANTES were SO
commonly used last year that tnefe IL
Il preference now for those OF plain vel
vet or plush. and striped mantles are
among the novelties. The newest man
ties have no plaits at the back. but la,
dies who wear large ~tournures' ano
those who are very stout, require 1ul'-
ness there. There is an effort to revive
dolman wing-like sides on vlsltes' or
flowing sleeves, instead of the square;
closer Sleeves used last year. Kepped
silk with extremely large cords ana tne
close-pile mole-skin plushes are l III lasoi
Tor both visites and scarf nantes
trimmed with fluffy fringges or WIN
those that have wooden balls nut
shaped pieces, or long spikes on eaca
strand. For the plain nlan'les y
boucle cloth, cord fringe or else a oano
Of fur. such rs the inexpensive hass pa
hare, 10 the trimmipg'-Ha'1'r or
ear.