Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-10-03
1TNXY JUNE IN PARIS.
,,,7rTJEs IN FORM AND MATE
NOV nIaI, FOR THE WEALTHY.

X
Loveltness for the Beautiful
E'O" vo,np-Bri daI TrOusseaus-Paris
snu onqer Fashions Throne-Hat
Nv ,ngs Considered More Eng
Ifiu ,,.t,.n .sFrench'-An Wool Under
is" The Black Toilet Never Com
mOnplace'
p,prs. sept. 21.-lt is little unfortu-
mat the majority of Americans VS.
a"'' paris only see it when Paris-fash-
,,.sble Parls-is absent, enjoying the
,-asnres of the country at their chateaux
P.,irg for the few weeks that they
+oar themselves away from their ac-
0'l ,,,ed haunts, at the seaside. In Au-
paris is very like New York in Au-
t.t If is given up to strangers, the
shops display the refuse of the sea-
marked down, but not cheap at any
.,,ca and excepting on Sunday the bou-
Ids and the Bots are occupied daily
tourists and excursiOnists in hacks
,cool's caravans. Dressmakers are
Ice for all Americans reserve a couple
,,rseks for Paris shopping and sight
uoing-particularly the former, before
%o,fjno for home, and as really good
~ ~, 10 not to be bought
modv made, even in Paris,
e@modistes, as a rule, must forego their
nlcar,on very much to their own salts
,.orion. for Americans are profitable GUS
M toners. , =,
Paris for shopping is not, however, all
,bat il was; something of its glory and
N NJ its cheapness has departed. The
pr,ca of every article-the whole cost Of
i,inr-is at least half as much more than
~was eight or ten years ago, and there is
noIoneer any standard or style, or au-
,soritv. except that which is assured by
snccessful caterers to popular taste. This
i more republican, but it detracts from
tho position which Paris has hitherto en-
ioye1 Of supremacy in the world OF
iasnop. while the enlargement OF cost Is
graduav depriving it of the trade OF that
fsrge class of persons who are not above
selecting their goods in the cheapest
market.
PARIS NO LONGER FASHIONS THRONE.
london is to-day far In advance of Paris
IN this respect. 1t is undoubtedly the
cbeapest and, in some respects, the very
heat market To buy in in the world, but it
lacks the deft fingers of Paris, the eye for
nrm and the touch by which stiffness
and aWkWardness become grace. There
4 still something Of this remaining in
Paris. but il gives one little shock to find
ones traditions shaken, the distinctive
ness and individuality of Paris departing,
and the confusion and diversity relgnlng,
which comes from running after strange
gods-the gods of the heather and the
'aFbarian.
There was a time when Paris was a law
mtO itself, in regard to high fashion, but
now London takes the lead in cloth suits
and tabernacle garments, and Germany
p0pnlarizes hduS- fTd1teR styles through its
Hbazar," which is republished in America.
Altogether, Paris is loOsing somewhat of
It's fashions prestige and prominence,
and the position of authority will shortly
be $40 Let'-unless the Princess OF
Wales, as Queen of England and Empress
OIndia, should succeed to the position.
EARLY AUTUMN STYLES.
Naturally the Partisan shopkeepers and
purVeyors to American tastes are too
wise not to provide something beside
sk0p-worn neckties, sh0wIly bordered
handkerchiefs and battered straw bon
nets for patrons with ready money in their
pockets. There are autumn novelties
70 choose from, if you do not care to ex-
pend Yourself upon bargains doc
tOSi0a, and you will not have
registered twenty-fOur hours with
out receiving polite notes Of in
utatiOn, from a dozen costume, lingerie
and millinery houses, begging a visit of
Inspection, or offering to send a commits
S0lqre with specimens Of their wares
for choice. Much pains-taking and
the work of the summer are put
into these early designs and fab
TICS, which, however, are not truly
French, but adaptations of skill to what is
considered American taste. This taste is,
above all things, for novelty, or so it is
supposed, and with some reason, for the
American tourist usually wants some
ming in the way OF clothing to show she
mas been to Parls-and IL must be some
thing different from what she has got, or
can get ct home. Psrisians have ideas of
llelr own and not this desire for changes.
They will order the same kind of dress
of tAe same purpose for years in success
non, and do not give it up until it is de-
faced or unfit for wear. The exceptions
% TINS rule are the modern rich and titled,
nho are fond OF display, to whom the
uapplngs OF wealth are still new, and
VINO Eaft an ambition TO vie with the
Hcn hl ricdiBes. American ladies', long
resident IN Paris, acquire Partisan WAYS
anu dress more richly, but more quietly
nan those who come expressly for clothes
friends.
W h. ~ eeHsdblOH Styles are CHdTdCbeI-
lea oy high contrasts, imitation laces
anu machlne-made beaded trimmings,
,aach arapery and many dangling orna-
20" MATERIALS AND EMBRoIDERIES.
II These styles are distasteful and thrown
de with symptoms of disapproval, bet
y ones are produced, beautiful fabrics
gNu enloroideries, arranged so skilfully,
sIcu happy combinations by a simple
NV s1e' mat only poverty or a long expert
~ NV ~ seeing without owning beautiful
,ss..ES can resist Il wish to appropriate
49, IL IS the exquisite embroideries
XIV eldwork that are the browning touch
eOstune. They occupy the fingers Of
srs workers all summer. Much the
ssa. are made in converts. 1t is only
49,. America as parts OF dresses or
seoslIles, Tor IL is too costly 10 be sold in
Xxx ana besides requires the combina-
sn !. lhe right kind and color Of fabrics
M sne manipulation of the skill.ul
MI, I s 20 put such costly work whore 10
bs has, 40 no. The most good-that is, show to the
O'st advantage.
Hoa az sorts OF stuffs are used rs founda-
elo,p lot hand-wrought embroidery, fine
NM W De combined with silk and velvet,
spd gauze, tale, crepe de chene
satln finished failles. Rich hand
gIaoa Ouery Is never put upon a smooth
do opaque surface, because II has no
pos 49,. ~ ana u capable Of neither reflection
elshsaysorptlon. The most beautiful and
don ale embroideries l have seen were
pom hne tinted cloth, or dark plush,
!" lltces for MANILA ttaota tropta ~ ,oa