The Sunday herald. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1866-1887, 1885-10-25


All thoughts of sorrow ned away;
Joy was my visitor that day,
And with him hand In hand came Love.
JOHN DENNIS.
The Spectator.
-----.s.s-
THE CRUISE OF THE QUINNEBAUG.
UNITED STATES STEAMER QuIyNEBAuG,
SMYRNA, TURKEY, september 20, 1885.
Especial Correspondence of THE SUNDAY IIERALD.l
We left Constantlnople Monday evening at 9
O'Clock. For some reasons | was glad to get away,
for others very sorry You cannot Imagine more
lovely sight than this city in the early morning, when
the new sun Is gliding the tall mInarets of the
mosques that seem TO stand on every available foot
OF ground. The historic mosque OF st. Sophie, in
Stamboul looks especially beautiful. Near to this ia
the old ScragllO Palace. You know 1t contains
jewels enough to I'LL the jewelcases of every crowned
head In Europe, then leave enough 10 ut ont the
Sultan In q fairly respectable manner.
Yesterday B. and started on the train nj
$3.50 for Ayasalank, en- route TO tho ruins of the
famed city OF Ephesus, which lies forty miles from
here AT the place with tongue.twlstng name we
were furnished with horses and gulde-the animals
very fair looking, the guide atrOciOus. There were
four In our party--a gentleman from the cultured
city of Boston, one from Liverpool, uhe United
States COnsul's son,) B., and myself. We fused
round the hotel for nearly an hour and finally got
or, the guide leading the way. The heat, intense,
forced MS to take of our heavy Jackets. and there
were no ladies to inconvenience we further added
to our comfort by each lighting cigar before start.
Ing We had only gone few PAGES when II was
discovered our guide spoke only Greek and Turkish,
and he might as well as talked Choctaw. We halted
the horses and formed a disconsolate group, the
guides tongue going like q coffee mill and hls arms
waving like windmill. Fortunately remembered
that my guide-book contained u chart of the city,
with everything plainly marked, 30 got 1t out and,
with the aid OF a compass, we easily picked out the
spots we most cared TO visit. Arriving In Ephesus,
we 1rst went TO the Cave Of the Seven Sleepers.
who supposed to have slept the sleep of the Just
for two hundred years. Here we found our guide
had English sentence, which we heard at least
two hundred times that day. "Mr. Wood, he excav
here, tomb"
Next the cave of the Sleepers is church cut out
of solid rock. On the side OF the mountain are
scores OF tombs similarly fashioned and In the ground
sepulchres made of the finest marble and carved
with skill have never equaled, and IN exquisite
designs have go far not seen surpassed. From the
cave we rode TO the Gymnasium. 1t takes pretty
strong imagination 10 make gymnasium out of the
Immense walls still standing In many places, and
forming what must have been superb alnphi-
theatre. Then we visited the Magnetism Gate, which
was one OF the principal entrances to the city, and
serves to show on what magnificent scale these
ancients conducted their building operations. In
wagons, one for charots, and tho smallest for foot
passengers. From here we visited st. LuIe's tomb.
The Slab which suppose was once on top OF 1t,
stands upright In the ground On Its face Is winged
OK encrcled by frieZe, above 1t a large cross cut
In the marble. Another slab was found here with
the head OF man carved on 1t, and around his head
a glory" and. as st. Luke was buried in Ephesus,
MIR. Wood, the excavator put the facts together and
concluded this to be undoubtedly the true tomb. 1t
is pity there Ia even the shadow of doubt thrown
on It, for, whether ST. Luke's tomb not, the fact
that 1t Is the tomb OF man held In high esteem for
his virtues, AZ Ia evidenced by the nlmbus, entities
II to the respect and reverence of the most careless
traveller. Thence we visited the Opera House or
"Odeum." Only few columns of marble mark the
spot they serve to strengthen ones belief that this
people had obtained to the greatest eminence In the art
ofsculpture. Strange what little ravage time has made
In the beauty ofthe workmansnpth the tracery seeming
Just as delicate and perfect "a when the c0lumns
left the hand OF the artisan Adjoining this are the
RUNS Of Greek school, Here are scores OF marble
slabs with Greek inscriptions. 10 me the most In
tercstng OF oil places WAS the immense Amphithea-
tire. the largest in Asia Minor, wherein 1t. Paul
preached TO the people Of Ephesus. 1t seated 500
people. Wasn't that an audience worth addressing
Upthe mountain we visited what Is commonly known
as the prison OF st. Paul. This IL of the spots
we must take ON faith, for to the skeptcal It does
not look 40 old The StadImni where the races were
held, the altar wherein sacrifices were offered to
the gods, and the walls that surrounded the city
were all In their turn gazed on. don't exaggerate
when say Of these walls that their width Is great
that three double teams could easily drive along
their tops without the slightest danger OF ono falling
on. These walls are full OF chambers and openings
where undoubtedly the Ephesan soldiers lay In walt
for the enemy.
From here We went TO the famed Temple OF
Diana. All that mythology tells us Of ts SURPRISING
m ia ahnr fnfr
can see with what justice 1t was counted among the
| seven wonders OF the world MIR. Wood spent three
years In searching for IT, and think the art world
owes him lasting debt OF gratitude for his patient
palnstaking labors OF course l have barely out
lined our visit, which shall live over and over as
we "plough the waters"
Leaving Ephesus and riding back to the station
we found the train mad gone, AMI our only chance
for return to Smyrna that night was by Eg train,
which would come some time later. We made our
selves not only miserable, but lnexpressbly wretched
around the inn. Finally sought refuge from utter
despair In examining the Register" and created a
| stir by announcing had found Gen. Grants name
| This reused my unhappy companions, and started
the train OF conversation the dead hero. In whom
all the world felt Interest and PRIDE lie registered
here In 1871, when making his tour round the world
ON reaching Smyrna we discovered a wild state OF
excitement consequent ON the report OF capture
by Inc Greek brgands infestlng the country around
Epheaus, and that Is 1000 were demanded as our ran
son. Fortunately Tor us, this was an error, but nm.
| fortunately for young Englishman named CharnOu
i 1t was only too true. There can be no possible
| cepiion In America OF what desperate character
these robbers They recruited from the very
lowest class OF Greeks, and daily commit the most
arocious crimes In and around this part OF Turkey
and unfortunately the government seems absolutely
powerless To capture or punish. This case OF Char
nous Ia a frightfu one. lie and companion, aftel
doing Ephesus, went about two miles Into the coun
try shooting. They were seized from behind and
bound. His companion managed to escape and
brought the news here. Late that night sealed
| letter was handed TO his uncle, o wealthy man
| uraveerD signed by the captain OF the band, do
manding Is 900 a. rans0m and II not paid by noon
OF the next day but the llfeof his nephew would
be taken. The poor gentleman Ia frantic. Seven
hundred troops were at once sent 70 the rescue hui
the general belief IL the poor fellow has been Killed
to get rid Of him. they saya fine fellow az everiyed
All this happened only two and half miles from us
| II reads ike romance, don't II?
| We are little blue to day. One OF our men died
after few hours' violent illness. Last night on
deck smoking and cheerful. aud by morning dead.
Tomorrow We leave for Chios and Rhodes. Al
Alexandria they say the Kearsarge viii relieve US,
aud the "Qbaug" win make her way to Nice
Possibly the Ebbitt would like new name for
"waiiles." We call them "midshpman's beefsteak.'
That would look well on the menu Of the Army aud
Navy hotel, wouldnth II? X. ID. NJ.
Etiquette ~ 10 C0at-Tails.
lcincinnatl Enquirerl
| a arE hnut ha mas