St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-06-21
CURRENT FASHIONS.
Materials and Designs for Dresses to Be
Worn in the Warm Days Of
the Summer.
Art of Dressing the Hair, and Obser-
vations for Buds in the Month
ofRoseS.
Open air Costumes Hats, Happiness.
ParasoIs and Bonnets--Collars
and Coils.

beauty of the fabrics to exercise their TASTE
and skill in so draping and arranging then
that they are a delight to the eye. There
are lovely Examines, with stripes Of velvet
chene or embroidered, to be worn as {
transparent over silk and faile, with wide
stripes of gauze that are charming.
A toilet just finished shows a skirt Of
bege-colored French moire, with overskir
of ecru etamine, edged with a band en-
broidered in pale blue On the left side the
tunic opens to show the MORE skirt, anC
upon the right it is
DRAPED VERY HIGH.
The corsage of MORE fits closely at the
back, terminating in tabs, while the fronts
are straight and loose, fastened at the
throat only, opening over a pulled vest
made of piece of the embroidered etamine.
Fancy toilets destined to be worn at gar
den parties or the seaside are chiefly made
of one of the many varieties of etamine,
either the plain, embroidered or open
worked style, There are wooden guipures
and Soudan lace which are in great vogue,
and these are made up over colored Innings
and worn with wide, sashes of MORE OF
satin ribbon ornamenting the back Of the
costume in place Of drapery. A coquetish
mantelet is made to match these dresses,
cut short, with little pointed ends that pass
under the sash. They are very youthful
and stylish.
A LOVELY TRIMMING
for skirt of cream silk placed just above
the hem is narrow band of black velvet,
very near it band of gold soutache, and
alternately gold and silver soutache until
the border is wide enough, where it is fin
ished at the opposite edge with narrow
black velvet band This border is made
upon the overskirt, though somewhat mar
rover, and in still narrower width on the
corsage, the narrow collars and cuffs OF
which are formed of the border.
The short basque waist still predQmi-
mates, cut so as to escape the hips, and at
the back forms a position. One pretty
style is to cut two bretelleS of MORE de-
scending at the front and back and ter
minating in bow with ends ON the Shout
ders A demi sleeve of lace, finely plated,
about four inches deep, from the shoulder
down, is effective. These bretelles and
lace sleeves are very dressy worn over plain
SILK OR VELVET.
MORE promises to be leading material
next autumn and is already being made up
in entire costumes. Emeline Raymond's
recent Paris letter says: ''Many of the
new toilets recall the pictured cos
tunes of forty OF fifty years ago.
Some dresses are made of very light
or of less costly stuffs still draped, the rest,
without exception, are gathered at the back
in very deep folds, raised and supported by
tournure or pad hustle, plated at the
sides and fiat in 'front.' For grand toilets
the skirt opens over petticOat front of a
different stuff, trimmed with embroidery or
lace. The corsage is sometimes round at
the waist. without either point or belt, and
again it is pointed or completed by belt
or sash. Sashes are extensively worn, often
of ribbon so wide that it represents whole
breadth OF silk. from twenty to twenty
three inches. The sash may be like the
dress in color, OF entirely different, of plain
ribbon or ribbon that is striped or bro
caded.
There is very rich silk piece lace to be
made into
STRAIGHT SKIRTS,
lOoped only on one side by some pretty
ornament, say flower bud or knot of
ribbon. A wide and long sash is almost
indispensable to such skirt. OF course
this is to be worn over silk. Summer suits
of challie, mouseline de laine and cash
mere are profusely trimmed with the new
and adaptive wooden laces, and hats and
parasols are ensuite.
Every woman who does her hair UP in a
double loop OH the crown of her head and
crimps her part locks, though she is con-
forming to the prevailing fashion, has not
by any means always solved the problem of
the greatest becomingness for her individ-
ual case. There are bow knots
and bow knots, curls and curls,
and probably never have there been greater
varieties in which to dress the hair than at
present. The Princess de Sagan is one of
the most dressy pieces for the back of the
head: and those whose own hair is thin,
lusterless, grows badly, or in any other
way unattractive, have no excuse for not
Disgusting the fact. False hair has been
brought to such a degree of perfection,
made of such improved quality. prepared
and put together in such an
ARTISTIC MANNER,
that it can defy detection altogether and
pass for the natural hair. There is no enc
of women who put up their front hair in
pins and papers to produce curls and waves,
which never have the right look any way,
who would do much better to give those
poor, tortured, thinned-out locks a rest
and put On front piece which,
without looking ''wiggy" or false
would have just the appearance they
have been aiming at, and all in vain. There
is a hair worker in our own city who makes
the most beautiful front coiffures found ii
this country. They are soft mass Of
natural, wavy hair, which covers the hea6
quite far back, and can be combed anC
combed and combed, and still retain theil
beautiful natural waves. They can bt
dressed upon the head as well as off, ant
the only effect damp weather has upor
them is to make them more wavy and curly
than ever. 1t seems almost impossible tha
such perfection can be arrived at, but it il
so, and
SENSIBLE WOMEN
should all wear such pieces and save theil
own hair for the time when fashion shall
decree that the high pOmpadour roll is the
most elegant STYLE, for without goo(
growth of natural hair this becoming style
to some ladies cannot be adopted.
A sort of compromise between very higl
| and very low headdressing is the couture
which consists of one large, heavy, loos,
braid commencing from the top of the head
falling a little below the neck and then car
ried up again, where small fancy comb o.
a few tortoise shell hairpins forms finish
| Add to this one of those natural wavelet
and you have an extremely pretty head
dressing.
The latest Partisan boots and shoes make
one think more of practical London than
THE FRIVOLOUS CITY
| where all good Americans are advised to q
before they die. They are long, narrow
with low heels and very pointed toes. The
lost detail is anything but practical, fol
nothing is more conducive to discomfort
| distorted joints, loss of temper and loss Of
/! pedal symmetry than these same pointed
toes to shoes. But the cry is that the long
narrow-pointed and fat foot is aristocratit
in appearance, so, of course, we shall make
haste to be as aristocratic as possible.
COLLARS AND FRONTS.