The Valley Virginian. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1865-1895, 1885-04-02
The Land of the Mormons.
THE WONDERS OF SALT LAKE.-MORMON
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES CLASSES THAT
COMPOSE THE SECT.
LETTER NO. VI

When the Salt Lake first broke upon us,
it appeared like a strip Of most vivid azure,
defined across the horizon, and broadening
every moment 1t was clear breezy
morning, and the hue Of the lake was q
rich peacock blue, to which the blue of
the ocean is pale and cold. We stood OH
the sandy shore, where d few grasses strug-
gled for existence, and looking across the
poundless expanse glittering in the sun
shine, and crested by the salt breeze into
ocean again where we least expected it,
in mid-continent. And yet there was a
difference, for though sky and water met
in the horizon, on either hand the stately
mountains stepped down to meet the lake
-mantled with snow, and purple on their
lower slopes, till the boundary line was
lost in the mist Though the lake con-
tains 333 per cent. of salt three buckets
Of water will make one bucket Of SALT,
its water is the most transparent in the
world, and Of q clear, bervl green. Y GU
can look down forty feet in its depths, and
see the ridged ripple marks i'll the pure
sand. Far beneath the surface, too, one
can watch the sun-play in the waves
dmting golden serpents, and stars and
wheels and spots, whirling, informing
ling, separating again in an intrieacy of
pattern unknown to designers. Whenever
the water is damned, or settles in little
pools, it fastens upon sticks or sage-brush,
and coats them with its transparent salt
crystals. | have seen them thick as my
wrist-an aggregation of cubes. The
first mention of the great Salt Lake is
to be found III the works of certain
French baron who heard of it from the
| Indians, and gives some rumors vaguely
| limiting at q vast, salt sea i'll the midst Of
the land When Irving wrote Of it de
scribing through Bonneville's eyes, or
perhaps more truly, through the reports
which had reached Bonneville's ears), he
mentions it as surrounded by blooming
| plants, and covered with muititudes Of
water fowl, The latter are now repre-
sented by q. few sea-gulls, white or
NJ A1N.IiiS olAC N6tfSO> tVllkl OC1I
me that in early summer the banks Of the
lake are q flower garden. When we made
our visit, the azure sea was framed in
purest gold, which met the mountains
foot-goid of sultiower, golden rod, and
mustard, and the distant, wooded sum
mits were crimson, yellow, and sere
brown. A short distance above the lake
shore, on the hill side, is the largest cave
in Utah which is, after all, only four hun
dred rods in depth, but very lofty. It's
rocky ceiling is a curious formation-a
volcanic conglomerate which seems to
have flowed in to roof it-cooled and
stopped
1t is estimated that some sixty thousand
persons bathed in Salt Lake last season.
! The water is much warmer than ocean
water, q month earlier and q month later.
At Garfield and at Black Rock where a
| sombre mass Of rock rises from the calm
water, and gives name to the spot) there
are bathing houses innumerable, rustic
pavilions, bars and swings, sail and row
boats, and also a dilapidated steamer.
The dry air and the alkali and salt make
| the preservation Of the boats almost an
| impossibility. Though it is impossible to
sink III the waters of Salt Lake, yet bath
ing there is not without danger. The salt
and potash so strongly impregnate the
water that a taste produces d sense Of
strangulation, and if more is swallowed
blood gushes from the ears and nose, and
in some cases death has ensued. The
swimmers and batherS are so well aware
of the properties Of the water, that they
eschew the oil silk caps or big hats of
eastern watering places, and keep their
heads high above water-mark. The casual
observer is amused to see bathing toilet
crowned with a large chip hat, adorned
with lace and ostrich feathers, or a fine
shock Of curls wreathing unconfined on
the neck orTshoulders Of the bather. The
satin-Smooth touch Of the water-the in
vigoration and buoyancy of a bath in these
waves, caunot be described--it discounts
Old Ocean. Wherever drop Of water
splashes OIL the flesh it leaves a deposit OF
salt, and the bathers incorporate this with
the system by vigorous rubbings with
Turkish towels. 1t is said that some
early explorers well-nigh died Of thirst in
the attempt to make the circuit of Salt
Lake now there are small settlements
along the banks, and fertile valley all the
way to Ogden. At Black Hawk and Gar
field there are, some small cottages fol-
guests and Indifferent boarding houses
But it should be made the resort, par eac
celIence Of the mid-continent On Ante
lope Island, where Fremont was first t.
sail in his little rubbers boat-are many
springs of pure, fresh water. This island
one of threesin the lake, has been bought
by an eastern syndicate. For the mex
: three years, cattle are to range there, anC
then She owners propose to build there
fine hotel with at endant cottages, turf til,
E barren slopes. plali; trees and flowers, ant
make the Great Salt Iake--as it deserve
to he-with lis salt sea breeze blowin
from the mountains, and its land locke