Evening capital. (Annapolis, Md.) 1884-1910, 1885-07-02

THE COOK IN THE ORIENT.
"A nmxwAWAm WHITES ABOUT CWH-
ME9E FRUITS.



Frulss q EIalnssay % Btse So Chinn-
Odd Ways 80 Preparing Them
Tlae Hole and sal cIhis
From time immemorial fruits have
been mainstay oil life in China Their
culture gives support TO millions, aud is
brought 10 q perfection almost unknown
n the Occident All Of the kinds III
niiliar to Americans are everywhere
grown SO also. arc the semi-tr0pical and
tropical; such as the orange, pineapple,
lemon, lime, citron, banana, star fruit.
puava, mangoe, tamarind. date, fig. and
shaddock. Beside these are a long se-
ries Of fruits indigenous to the East; the
Bolo. Dai.chi, AIa-tag, and score Of
others
Fruits arc more frequently cooked In
China than here They enter into cakes.
karts. pies, buildings, stuiiing. They
are baked roasted. fried, broiled, and
boiled They arc also dried, evaporatcd.
elessicaied, smoked, picked, soused.
preserved, candicd aud made into iellies,
jams, and maunalades
Among odd ways of preparing aud
preserving them, Is one In which fruit
sweetencd % taste, is perforated with q
cochincal stick, then wrapped in a
water. lily ienf, aud then boiled in syrup.
The heat aud moisture transfer the Grim
son color 81 the wood 10 the interior
1lesh, while the lily-lcaf stains tho ex-
terror rich green, and at the same time,
pcnetrates IL TO q moderate depth with
ne gelatin0us or mucilaginoug elements.
Fruits thus treated are put in large jars,
and sent over the world Even when
opened, they resist fermentation for
weeks.
In the use of fruits, the Chinese do
not follow the Portuguese adagc OF
sliOlden nc morn, silver at noon, aud
lead at night, but on the contrary in
dulge to an extent that would astonish
q physician of the old school. 1t is
common sight in Monaghan home to
tind tho entire family dcvouring oranges,
bananas. and sugar cane, at midnight.
IN the main, acid and sub-acid fruits are
preferred to all others.
The extremes to which fruit.culture is
carried ON in China is we'll exeInplifed
hy the BSlo. In wild state, the fruit,
(which grows from the trunk, and not
from the limbs of the Boso trec), is not
much larger than an apple, and in shape,
color, and interior construction resem-
bles an orange. Cultivation for centuries
has increased it in size until it weighs
from 100 to 300 pounds. As it buds in
me spring, the fruit farmer builds under
and around it strong bamboo basket,
which In turn is firmly attached to the
tree trunk. When mature, the fruit eau
be easily broken into spherical sections
similar 10 an orange. Its taste il very
rich and sweet, resembling, somewhat
that of Huckensack melon. These
are small almost rudimentary. and mover
sprout. The tree is propagated by shoots
aud gratis. The Bolo exerts u fascina
tionupon the Chinese SINAI hoy. similar
TO that tabled to be exercised by ths
watermelon upon tho colorcd brother.
As soon as IL begins to ripen, guards are
stationed in the orchard, and there kept
until tho last globe is gathered. The
enfant terrible in the East has one adyall-
tage over his Ethiopian rival. Once
picked he, or they--as it requires three
boys to properly do the business may
carry off the fruit before the owners eyes.
A queer superstition among the farmers
horbids recapture, or even uukind words
to the malefactors, on pain, it is sup
posed, Of the blighting of the tree or Or
chara the next season. The Bolo sells
Tor from 900 TO 5, 900 cash, e 000 cash
being nearly equal to 81. 1t is sold to
peddlers and vendors, who separate il
into It's component sections. These mum.
Der from 800 10 600, and arc rctailed nc
cor1ing TO their size from five cash up.
ward. Covered with leaves, the sections
remain sweet aud fresh several days.
Another fruit (now beginning to ap-
pear in American markets) is the Sai-chi.
IS i grows it Is the size and shape Of
walnut, with shell thinner than that OF
the finest almond Within is a fresh
and luscious pulp that may be put half
way between strawberry and raisin.
tier being gathered, It slowly dies I'M
"a the pulp resembles a small date.
Thus far only the dried fruit has heen
imported. It's success, however, indi-
Gates that tho fresh fruit'would in short
sime be extremely popular. The dried
are sold IN American stores ut forty cents
per pound. in Chinese stores at twenty
i've, but in Canton and Hong Kong at
i've to ten. Lai-chi has considerable
hygienic value. When fresh its action
Is similar to that Of figs Of tamarinds,
dried e. that of prunes. An essential
principle is extracted from It by the
Chinese physicians and apotheearies. and
has long been ! favorite remedy for
many complaints Wong 1hiRfaA. ~
~ Cooks