New-York tribune., 1885-10-21
THE Fashions.
HATS BoyNETS AND DRESS GOODS.


GREAT VARIETY OF STYLES BIRD TRIMMINGS
VEILs-GUEGEoUs FABRICS FOR DRESSES AND
WRAPS.
Fashion has become as eclectic as art, ana Is
no longer an autocrat who prepares Proerns'ea pe'
she s besides, achemst, aud wfth the !re'h autumn
bonncte and fairies produces in her blaze oil "l '"
colors amagndcert glitter, turning AL Into s'id y"
two women to bonnes alike seems to he ah l'"".
ful proceeding whllr there is general standard u sP
still cliagirg to those OF the past season. p'''"',
window fisI-we, the two horns OF iS7' tbe ohs " "
Midas are some OF the fronts that stand erect "g"I
tall crown for back ground Tho other fauUi"r s''p
consist OF the turDan with hish crown tue L"N'
walking hat and tnque. also with high Crowns lac
tavorite fabrics are plush, velvet, rise emproino'
India cachcuere oo scrim wool and elk etimiHe am
embroidered silk Gtaminc. An enormous quahtly va
lace il used and fOwets have gwen place 10 blroH' vi
thcso there the crow and back1ird, Heasu oli"'
pheasant gray doves the red taaager tho Chress k"S
fisher blue aui bronlc Brazilian birds, hcrons "hE'
the graceful slender gray white soa swallow ol""'
little hnmane birds by the score reed birds ana e'o'
the SPARROW anl swall w not disdaiHci tor nv
lnerciless demands OF fashion Owls heads arc H"'
despsed aud the wooden beads hitherto deacrOeo '"
no unirnpurtant part OF the bonnet decoration As""
khan is one of the latest concets for Innct ma'er
and has very unique look dotted about with the caI'
heads ana also with bead embroidered crowns Iherc II
reat deal OF gold lace AMI nsel wrought IN Win Tue
silks containing all the designs and tiHts oi iu''"
shaws. The eccentric tall crowns are made 10 '''''
much taller by the huge bows of rlhbon the agreN'''
feathers nad n bird two that form the trnnlS uIs'
consisting OF bands or clusters cnhOlyuG the feathers
the pannt the reihr"ast and hngtsher 50 perfect Is
the taste seen in these gay that the simplest Is
tho result of a weeks study anI the gold that "d0rs
them is the tnscl Of the past. that Is soon tarhs"u
bat tbe real metal. There are wings and breasts oi
cnrysoIhase and rosy brown sardonyx, gancihg oP"'
huos or CLINT OF the large lopbodorc 10 satisfy tue
demand tue destruction OF birds upon both continents
is enormous
RECENT IMPoRTArioNs.
Some Of the imported bonntts are e&guiSileIY beauh
fuL Que Of these is composed OF asH-eray c''Po
de chenc embroidered in the natural coiors OF autumn
leaves; tho shape is cap0ie; lace ehprold'H "'''
copper n,e is arranged in front In full mass ad also
over ths crown; the breast anl heal VI tah"ser
rest agaust the side fun bow OF the rih"on'
Anpthcr capote has u crown oT mos, rtoen plush em
broidered with gold tinsel lighter green AID silver 'no
front is simply roll Of plush AMI some noIhs Ic''h't'
Of the orole AMI Lroalo pluuiage of BrdLlaA "r"'
Tho large bows that crown the top OF the larger ooine
are unique In being formed OF plash mJre, ribbon lace
gold copper silver gauIe aud tall loops. male to 'an'
upright Of trcoored ribbon and plush or velvet inter-
ui4ed with goose feathers. Tho beautiful Hhc- bitd i
OF OF its Kind aud costs S25 cr $50 ca
account its rarity Bonnet OF tue dicercnt siapea are
made OF Angola Will glow,ug tints ani designs OF
The silk Ga'Dao riJboLs arc embroidered 10 ori"H'"
designs aud In charming flowers. and bor"ret with
plush. velvet satin IN bria.t cOlofs. scae OF iho
BONNET pldNhcS are Sli"Tb IN c'"t anu @ 10
these produced the favOrtc green. dhi IdlaL
80 ~ r,f ninc AMI cream Auoiuer variety Il the
uus faoOHif. that - cut Oh; In unlpu" de-lI7 over III
surface Nrw coi"r- come ia win Tue h'M I'sh"'' ="
new shades Of oh color with new ua'ne.
BOSNEr MATERIALS ASD IRGNMlNGS.
Felt bonuets and hat, take tho soft aud beautiful
shade II los, green aud broule-hroea having the same
tall chimney pot steeplc shape win hIlm
saryiag IN cares and wide. These are trimmed
without reference t. re. TIe felt itsrf "a "ai" sPy
fDr "a bod 0f embroidery IN beads aud u exceed hSD
light. These mostly for AmcriclnS. Tie f'e"eh
nulration ~ felt bonnet, u exceed ngy small they
nro not liked ia Paris. Tue attractive Je.-eJ oIoth
hou,ct- and hate as novelty take well The fftin" IA
simply cred with the embroidered Jersey 'i"'h h''
the pplrte IA readily Hnie hy an amateur MO
c.u use any tr!IhIllng -ugs"st"L IHc ti"''1lAero1
woods are also sc i this manner lio-ri fhttors III 'ao
WOOL with tho DL,,nj bead, or tho dArS iride-o"i~
Again there are wool crowns worked al otcT VITA b"'IS
81 apD,gue dcsig,. Ia velvet Tie fa.hoa "r covering
tue frame. u whatever natea! Is not OF imperA I'e
either picatc gathered OF perfectly pain Tue es" 'l
the bonnet to Accorinro w!:h tnr fantastic present
.t.le Aa- hmr wire cwod Ia which may Dr beat Ia AL
.Iaiiuer Of snapcr 10 Ica.c the fancy IhcAe' i''
Wt,rd ,citlIuycC. turre -gusfv ARai. "a" ihHi''
liy bee laid by the amateur very Loosely ihrh ,'uk.'
dOw here and there "i hos 'esr 80" an u" - -
a Large wood bead other Lud. 81 Httc "ri" ~',',.
p q
c,l,rs ic, treal designs. quantties "i -u4l p"- 4
tue i.ects Npud pufAo tine most l,"ILch ol c"''''"
wells are introduced aftor long rest not the ' "l
lao" that Wa originally Intended 10 kr'C hc othSi nan
viii reach to tue CHM. Ihe u"'c aul chi gh'
orally Z. must unoycly features Ih' 'Ni 81 ~"
face l the heat aud cold IA, severely luIr the "H Iy
OF the -an with aOd frecSlr-. ana Hr-h and ""'d
mote brautiu ana modest Tor ihe 'el tH" reveals ana
cOuccals It's CHARM
RICH DRESS oooss.
The sixteenth century Is revived IT. The latest importa
ZION OF silk aud plush fabrics aud VITA tho aso "f g"
The most magnificent OF these fsrc- may b" caI"l
cloth OF gold the wrOns sIdo; the riSdt sie i "i
superb creamy white ;noiro antique the surface Of
which tue nno gold appear, In very large designs of
ByzantiLe aud Moorish traccrica. Another is tdIIe
hayins nor. dc-gus OF double rngs A. regular Intervals
over the surface; TINS Il called noite horoeyPhc
Another OF this material has Scro-d shields detached iu
mo r. antique tho falc Fncst back gauEe ami all
the new coors have "A veriuice design Ia nne black aud
gold thread; this apr steel cream pale blue" o-e-
eglantnc ana eei biuo. marine green iiiIe franeas
has tiger Kin stripes the closest imitation OF the fnr
OF the animal IN plnsh Others In her coior" nave tAe
beautiful stripes 0f leopard cinchllla. panther @nd "d
cat superb MORE Frdncais has very wido siiipc ia Oh
India shawl color and d,ssuS; otiets qnliut boradc
shields qu4rterrd with cD1t-pt arma an 7iol on one
side the other stn ~"r de lis aRd old castle as per-
recty defined In ts duh reds blues AMI blacks with gol
thread a. II painted. stripe OF mclnv" style
and colors Ike old tapestry. with goli introduced
tcrnatss with sI& OF the heaviest make In shades
Of r. scae7e marine blanc, nOir. ruliT bronze ddrt
and myrtle plush striped rich inoirc Is In gros yer
and the above shades The same rti Is ~ pears without
fine watering with vine velour, haNlag shorter ha 'a
plush. Pekiu f,ilie francais ha4 plush stripe
nroci-c hnltiuu Of chmcuill. Tor tabler or othrr
dInirtins and IL accompanied hy tie chlhchls Tor
wau: tins also panther, wildcat awh and tlg"r
ulus Another ht.IcTb vartct. 0f fdr Iidncas SLOWS
clusters horizorta stripe ia dctaoi"d 7os oi graded
iru,tI. of veil ar de- nn!r k" ve,veL u the shade
The Pckin uoycnago aud plus. dn nGrl oi excessive
wciyht driu tnding tho ef OF tnr HOOD has the 7t
snucr, color. an designs ~ that Tore are also
P,kin eelle Of plush aud grape fri-c the gr uni o SKY
bue s in with fri.6 drsgu- cnsry resembling 1l point
Lace of cream color, and stripes Of moss green plush
cglaItnc, Scvrrs. Of the same fabric
Otucr -ty les are f lc plush du n1r OF brown with
lclnf plush is cut out la unique Largo designs ol
wheel work chan arinOr. dr. gous ola nrabesquer In
chtcr .h,dc of pnsn. Kafn~chaLka pcktu stripes of
dive fac aud pns, interviewer with git thrrads.