Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-10-03
JENNY JUNE IN PARIS.
Novelties I'm Form and Material Pre-.
pared for the wealthy-Visi0ns OF
Loveliness for the Beautiful and
YOunS-Dalnty Bridal Trousseaus.

PARIS, sept. 21.-lt IS Q little unfortunate
that the majority Of Americans visiting Paris
only see 1t when Paris, fashionable Paris, d
absent. enjoying the pleasures Of the country at
their chateau, or resting for the few weeks
that they can tear themselves away from their
accustomed haunts at the seaside. In August
Paris is very much like New York in August IL
IL given up to strangers, the great shops dis
play the refuse of the season, marked down, but
not cheap at any price, and excepting on Sun
day the bouIevards and the "Bois' are occupied
only by tourists and excursionists in hacks and
Cooks caravans. Dressmakers are busy, for all
Americans reserve q couple of weeks for Paris
shopping and sightseeing. particularly the for
mer before starting for home, and as a really
good ht" Is not to be bought, ready-made, even
In Paris, the modistes, as a rule, must forego
their vacation. very much to their own satisfac-
ton, for Americans are profitable customers.
Paris, for shopping, is not however, all that 1t
was; something of its glory, and all OF It's cheap
ness. has departed. The price of every article,
the whole cost ofliving, is at least half as much
more than IL was eight or ten years ago, and
there Is no longer any standard or style, or au-
thority. except that which is assured by sue
cessfu caterers to popular taste This Is more re-
publican, but it detracts from the position
which Paris has hitherto enjoyed of supremacy
In the World of Fashion, while the enhance
ment of cost is gradually depriving it of the
trade OF that large class OF persons who are not
above selecting their goods in the cheapest
market.
PARIS NO LONGER FASHIONS THRONE.
London Is to-day far in advance of Paris In
this respect. 1t Is undoubtedly the cheapest,
and, In some respects, the very best market to
buy in In the world, but 1t lacks the deft hn-
gers Of Paris. the eye for form, and the touch
by which stiffness and awkwardness become
grace. There Is still something of this remain
Ing in Paris, but 1t gives one little shock to
lind ones tradition shaken, the distinctiveness
and individuality of Paris departing, and the
CONFUSION and diversity reigning, which comes
nom running after strange gods-the gods Of
the heather and the barbarian.
itself, in regard to high fashion. but now Lon.
don takes the lead in cloth suits and tailor
made garments, and Germany popularises
republished In America. Altogether Paris is
losing somewhat of its fashions prestige and
viii shortly Be- ITO Lesuness the s Pancess Of
Wales. as Queen Of England and Empress OF
1ARLY AUTUMN STYLES.
Naturally the Partsian shopkeepers and Dur.
veuors TO American tastes are too wise not to
provide something beside shopworn neckties,
and heavily bordered handkerchhiefs and bat
tered straw bonnets for patrons with ready
money In their pockets. There are autumn
novelties" to choose from, If you do not care
to expend yourself upon bargains Occasion
hours without receiving polite notes of invita-
ton from o dozen costume, lingerie and MILL
merry houses, begging visit of inspection, or of
OF their wares for choice. Much pains taking
and the work Of the summer, are put into these
not truly French, but adaptations of skill to
what Is considered American taste. This taste
Is above all things, for novelty, or so IL is sup
posed, and with some reason, for the American
tourist usually wants something in the way of
clothing to show she has been to Paris-and it
must be something different from what she has
got, or can get at home. Parisians have ideas of
Enee own, and not this desire for change.
They win order the same kind of dress for the
In, md a.
not give IL up until 1t Is defaced or unit for
wear: The exceptions to this rule are the mod
whom the trappings Of wealth are still new, and
who have an ambition to vie with the rich
Paris, acquire Partisan ways, and dress more
, richly, but more quietly, than those who come
expressly for clothes that will surprise their
These sensation styles are characterized by
high contrasts, imitation laces and machine
peeded trimmings much drapery and many
NEW MATERIALS AND ENBRoIDERIEs
II these styles are distasteful and thrown
aside with symptoms Of disapproval better
ones are produced, beautiful fabrics and en-
broaderies, arranged 30 skilfully, in such happy
combinations by simple touch, that only pow
ertv or long experience in seeing without
owning beautiful things, can resist a wish to
appropriate them. II Is the exquisite embroid-
eetes and bead work that are the browning touch
Costume a., They occupy the fingers Of busy
made In converts. 1t Is only sent to America
a. parts Of dresses or costumes, for it is too
the combination of the right kind and color of
fabrics and the manipulation of the skilfull
modiste. to put such costly work where IL will
% the most good-that Is, show to the best ad-
All sorts Of stuns are used as foundations for
bined with silk and velvet.velvet. blush. ssuze.
tulle, crepe de chine and satin finished failles
Rach hand embroidery Is never put upon a
depth and Is capable Of neither reflection nor
absorption. The most beautiful and elaborate
emoroideries have seen are done upon fhe
tinted cloth or dark plush, In pieces for panels,
vests, fronts of costumes and commentators
for coats and Jackets. The materials used are
and bronze spider thread, smali"pere, levels
bronze and amber beads, wrought in with
sna asE sPp9ness Of rich ssu to pro
ertes chaplet (rosary) beads are introduced both
plain and carved in natural wood colors, and
SILVER caros also take the place of finer work.
EXQUISITE TOILETS.
Madame Anglia, Rue Royale, who has ellen.
teie among the Partisan aristocracy, as well az
wealthy Americans, has some of the most orig
inal and remarkable Of the hand embroidered
and brocaded stuffs, made expressly for orders
some Of which, for autumn costumes. were
received from American customers In the
ticipate, now days-it is not fashion
when 1t simply copies and initiates, it
must De original and make others CODY, if IT Is
70 maintain a leading position. An exquisite
toilet. made for Madame Wilson, nee Grew
was Of sapphire blue faille, draped with white
tulle, embroidered with white fioss, and blue
and green beads in relief, in small palms or
leaves Of palms. The tulle was not cut IN was in
q piece of several yards, and was simply draned
and caught up here and there with the inimita-
BILE art OF the French modiste-the effect beino
that of q sort of scarf from the shoulder where
1t was fastened with q small boquet OF feathers
AND nowers; . long drapery on one side folds
upon the Others with tufts Of feathers and falls
1t the back upon the train. lovely dress
made for the Marquise de Gallifet and To he
sent TO q chateau in the country, was of cream
canvas, embroidered with fuschias In three
shades Of pink and red, and made over an ex-
quisite shade Of shell pink silk. There
were two bodices. one low and one high. The
former was of pink silk close fitting, pointed and
laced at the back, and trimmed with fine folds
OF tulle and pendant fuschias, copied in beads
from the colors In the embroidery. The high
bodice was of the shade of red In silk, with Mo-
Here shirt of the canvas outlined with lace en-
broidered in gold and fuschia shades the latter
sparingly. beautiful Louis XIII. toilet was of
ydtAe Jrdncots tmOrdore) with drapery and
trimmings Of tulle, quadrille in pearls and Sc
cascades and as a Louis XIII. gibet (waistcoat)
rich agrafe of embroidery and q wide sash OF
MORE ribbon completed the dress, Madame
dAngla has made several toilets with court
trains. removable so that they will be available
rs dinner and evening or afternoon reception
ana visiting dresses. This has been especially
the case In employing costly embroideries IN
coEJuction with faille and velvet or plush
BRIDES CHARMING rRoUssEAU
A trousseau In preparation for young lady
from western New York contained many