The Abbeville messenger. (Abbeville, S.C.) 1884-1887, 1885-08-26
OUR SOUTH AMERICAN CORES.
PONDENCE.
MaFanhoa, Pernambuco, Bahia, Rio
JanierO.

|
S Janiero.
STEAMSHIP ADVANCE, IN FRONT
OF RIO JANlERo, July II, 1885.
Dear Adcertiser: A week ago Tbado
you an uncerimonious adieu at Para,
on the Amazon, as the Consul, return
ing to the United States, was waiting to
take charge Of my letter. From Para
we steamed down the river, and were
soon once more upon the bosom of the
broad Atlantic, where we took an east
ly course for several days, apparently
sterile coast. Our nights were illumin.
ed by the bright Southern Cross to our
right, now rising high in the heavens
under the beautiful constellation of Sag
itarius-the great Dipper balancing On
the left-and the North Star fast sink
ing beneath the horizon. The equator
ial atmosphere was tempered by balmy
breeze, and at all times light woolen
dress was comfortable, often shawl
necessary, as the swift trade winds
swept over the vessel. The great waters
are wonderfully beautiful here, varying
wildly from every shade Of blue to ev-
cry shade Of greenland elivened often
by high leaping porpoises and curious
round jelly fish. But 1 grew weary of
it, and though not seasick. I was sick of
the sea. So much so thatI joined the
party going ashore at Maranhoa. This
city stands on an eminence 400 feet
above the sea, and had once $4,000 peo-
pie and an important commerce. The
ravaEcs Of yellow fever and small pox,
however, have materially reduced both
population and trade. At Maranhoa
again VIC found the accommodating
street cars, drawn by stunted mules.
The better class Of people here seemed
to be great improvement upon those Of
Par. AS we traverscd the str, ets o"
Maranhoa, it was Sunday. but noticed
the stores, we'll stocked with varieties,
were open, while most OF the many
churches were closed.
Proceeding through the town far into
the suburbs, We found some very hand
some residences-of glazed, variegated
tiles. While peeping over the front of
one Of the finest, pretty and graceful
Sonora appeared on a balcony and invit-
US to enter. After welcoming us with
hospitable gestures, she disappeared,
but returning quickly bringing her hus.
band, who spoke both English and
French-a very handsome and wealthy
young. man, educated in New York and
Paris. On this occasion he wore a yell
low blouse, like fisherman in an opera
scene. They conducted us through
parterres Of tropical plants, up through
broad balcony, into large saloon,
with brightly painted walls, tiled floors.
and many fine engravings. Here wine
and water were handed, in every qaaint
earthern goblets, by . fantastic young
negress in decollete pink cotton gown,
short wasted la Josephine, and many
beads and earrings. The host then con-
Quoted us through his fruitery and back
yard-a wilderness of cocoas, bananas,
sapodillas, figs, grapes, pineapples,
breadfruit and India rubber trees. The
hostess loaded US with fruit and rare
flowers, and badc US graceful adieu
with magnificent parrot perched on
her shoulder. Those are people of the
very highest class; indeed the gentle
man is \ noblema,,-a viscount. This
little episode had the charms of decid.
ed novelty, and rested US, as it were,
from the monotony OF. the sea.
We find real equatorial fruits insipid,
lacking in favor. The want Of we'll
marked seasons, imagine, is the cause.
Vegetation here never dies. and frost are
unknown. The two seasons are wet and
dry. 1t is dry now; but still, even in
the country. with paling fences and
many negroes. reminded me Of our Car
olina middle counties.
But again we ''go down to the sea in
Ships" and again steer out eastwardly.
The ne7t salient event IN our voyage is
the rounding of Cape st. Rogue, from
which point the South American Allan
tic coast slants rapidly in to the South
West. In few hours after rounding
Cape st. Rogue, We find ourselves be.
fore Pernambuco, called by the natives,
st. Yoscf. On account OF dangerous
corals reefs in the bay, the Captain
awaited pilot. A remarkable coral
reef, like solid wall Of masonry, rises
above the surface of the waters, and ex-
tends half milo out to sea. At the ex.
tremity there is lighthouse and fort.
The barbor was full OF ships from all
parts Of ths world, indicating a large
foreign trade. The city is one of the
largest and most important on this
cosst, with population Of 125,oOO. It's
-