National Republican., 1885-11-14
NEW PUBLICATIONS.

DRESS AS 1T HAS BEEN, Is, AND WILL,
BE. BY ISAAC WALLER. 21J Fifth avenue.
New York city.
In preparing this volume for publication
the author has sought to present In serious
language the aspect Of the varying cos
tunes Of mankind throughout history un-
III the present day from purely artistic
standpoint. The time he believes Is ripe
for such n treatise written, as this one has
been, In conscientious vein, end embody-
ing the experience of n lifetime In the de-
signing and making OF mems outerwear.
both In England and the United States, and
the author has been the more prompted to un-
dertake this semi-professlonal task because
he has noted the rapid change In taste both as
70 fabrics and ideals OF style which are TO
be seen throughout the Union. The great
houses that used TO flourish ON the trade Of
the elite are swiftly passing. away aud
giving place TO those proficient in the high
est forms OF art, while immense manufac-
turing establishments turn out cheap mate
rial and ill-fltting garments for the multi
tude. In the advanced line Of merchant
tailoring are now found elegantly appointed
shops filled with imported goods of only
the first qualities. In these establishments
man is not dressed In minute, but his
peculiarities OF frame arc made the subject
OF careful study, and his adaptibility TO
special styles and colors is seen In the light
OF experience and cultivated judgment.
however these pages may impress the
reader. 1t cannot be controverted that In /
general and detail, truth, and sincere wish
been the only aims Of the author The fore
going is the authors excuse for writing
"Dress.n Thatitis avery good one, must be
admitted. The present volume gives the
history Of dress, treats Of IL as fine art, its
hygienic effects, the English effect on our
dress, &c. The book contains numerous
illustrations. All the beaux should have
one, for like Izaak Walton on fishing, so is
Isaac Walker the criterion on dress.
On our table lies the "Wit of Women,r
by Miss Kate Sanborn, The writer knew her
when she was quite a little girl In st.
Louis her father being a professor in
Washington University. She has more than
fulfilled the promise OF her youth In becom-
ing one Of our most delightful writers and
lecturers. Her own clever wit might flll q
volume. The original idea OF collecting
the witty sayings of women has proved a
happy success, In which we heartily join.
Among so many epigrams we must say as
the author says OF Mrs. Stowe, when so
when to choose. One of the best is given
Of the "Lady Of the White House." Upon
leaving Buffalo for Washington a lady
friend said to her: "I hope you will hail
from Buffalo," "Ah," replied Miss Cleve-
land. "You expect ME to hail from Buffalo
and reign In Washington We commend
this spicy volume to our readers as a most
entertaining evening companion.
Literary Notes.
"Mark Twain has written for the
forthcoming December Century "The Pri-
vate History of Campaign that Failed"-l
an account OF his own personal experiences
as youthful 'rebel" in the early days of
the war. This "war article' is illustrated
with maps drawn by the author, aud some
striking pictures by Kemble. There is said to
be nearly as much tragedy US comedy In the
sketch, which has special value as show
ing the fluctuations of opinion at the break
ing out OF the war, and the entirely ANA
teur character Of some Of the carly cam
paigns.
Prof. Waller, chemist to the New York
health department, will have suggestive
article In the December number of the Cen-l
tury, entitled, dangers in Food and
Drink" Prof. Waller has had unusual ex-
perience in the detection of the dangers he
here describes.
John Burroughs will have paper onI
"Bird Enemies" in the next Century, inl
which he will, 1t is said, make tingle the ears
of the trade egg-collectors, of whom there
are SO many in America.
The interesting topic of "Faith Cures''E
will be treated "without glovesn In the
December Century, by the Rev. Mr..
Schauiler, who has paid particular atten-I
tion to the subject.