New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-11-02
aiken to Chambers Street. Hospital and hI' u''HIun'
escaped.
THE FASHIONS,
FOE AUTUMN AND EARLY WINTER WEAR
BoYHETs-TRIAiMINGs-vE ILs-CoLoRs-DRESs
-PATTERNS-HOSIERY.

BoNNETs-TRIAMINGS-VE -COLORe-DhESo
GooDs-PATTERNs-Ho
Late expostions introduce styles OF bonnets
that compare agreeably with the heavy blanket aurc'
Fur felt fine moesdn plush and felt Donnets aaa ,nc
finishing harmony to the anticipated heaVy "in.ei
toilets which consist of bison homespuns rough t"ie"
camels hair Astrakhan cloths, OoUcie ana other ue
scrlped fabrics The ribbons partake Of the general
shacginess In imitation bands Of Astakbanand others
of fris6 velvet striped wool and rsG stripes OF plush o'
Of which plain tho other curly and there are oher
soft thin wool ribbons with edges OF narrow push'
velvet or heavy silk These ribbons set in long loops
from the crown drooring to the brim' Win the
addition of two or three quill feathers ornament OF
metal wings or fancfu feathers that lose their Identity
beneath the weight OF beads gttering silver OF gou
encrustations Imitation tails and pyramida grasses
are used for this stiff style Of trimming especially ior tne
high crowned toques and tprbans. Not infrequehtly
these marry fabrics have gtterng thread OF tnsel
through the dark depths There are some
models OF mingled fabrics. Nelvet bonnet OF beaver
brown with slashCd brm covered with three OF TOUT
folds OF heavy moleskn plush OF darker snaue' Do
strings satin with picot edge; large honuo
script bird sits with folded wings on top just where the
folds meet in nest long velvet loops Heavy bonnets
of plush are decorated with several rows OF earVeu
wooden beads placed around the edge and brightenen
with cluster of bronze, pansy coOred anu asparagus
green and Indian red feathers on top some OF 'heso
plain velvet or plush bonnets are trimmed Simply Win
ribbon MN like In simplicity. The AstraKhah
cloth bonnets are seen with Alpine crowps high rouhd
crowns and horse shoe crowns; small shapes coVereu
with one fabric as q change from the mixed materials
are narrow and the shoe is either simulated
with beads or the crown itself takes that shape Inc
embroidered cloth bOnnets take precedence over the
other wool styles in beauty not only with the reDes
costumes but corresponding with the embroidered cloth
costumes Beaver silver fox, chnchlla and AstranaL
fur are each used upon Crows aud the lustrous
blackbrds mite ouriya those OF more brilliant plumage
Oh these heavy bOnnets. One OF the requirements OF
fashionable bird Is a long, heavy beak, in which the
blackbird excels.
Wells.
Wells steadfasty gain favor after too long retirement
They undoubtedly add air OF distinction aud elegance
10 ray nothing Of grace to the bonnet, while adding
beauty TO the face The old fashioned short thread
wells are restored and others shadOwy ~ mist the
tissues are excessively delicate and novel In designs
woven in like cObwebs OF fsh-net patterns in white
plonb paes gray deshcolor; others OF hnest lace
and Illusion are plain again dotted with slvery
threads not too to nure the eyes, and with tiny
loops Of beads a dot Of silk and bead For later In
tho season there ara thin tissue wells Of dark coors such
o. red green, blue and the dark sphynx-blue which
partakes OF the lead color
BLUE IN FAVOR.
After extreme hesancy regard TO the adittancc OF
blue to favor the matter ia finally settled ana there are
blue apacas and blue wool and braid united With
-
red and blue also used. The two coors combined
need great tact Some of the blue and red toilets seen
this season the street too glaring just mOdcuD
OF red should be for good taste simply perhaps Tor
narrow vest standing collar and cuffs trimmed with
ows OF silver or white wool braid or narrow black
Hercules braid the oyersrt Of the same color may he
trimmed similarly The bonnet bat OF blue straw or
r,nsh IA trimmed with wool lace and Midas ears of
ribbon loops aorn the sides The po on sucn hn Is
cut straight and ned with rather SUN lace 10 Keep III
form.
FABRICS AND PATTERNS.
These heavy hairy blanket studs when seen made up
create disnay particularly in the stout beholder but
after all they are heavy they seem. The found
alton skirt extremely light and wider than those OF
the past; In fact may be made OF the thnnest lining
stuIs on which arranged the outer fabric in deep
rlaits In long and graceful styles. The huge side
draperes and general air OF bunchiness disappearing
with the advent of the heavy winter fabrics The
tourunro is no Size; this the drapery falls In
large deep pats kept in place Hnt near the bottom
OF the skirt then allowed fall into tho semblance OF
plated rufe: there is a box-paited narrow hOunee
placed on the foundation skirt Of the fabric. OF
velvet OF plusU according desire. Tie tailor Finish
basque IS short adorned simply with collar cuns'
rocket; vest II preferred The charm OF these cos
tunes In the perfection OF shape and fitness to
the figure. Fannels, all styles OF cloths Chuddah,
chcvios, serges, mohairs and alpacas make up the
general list Of autumn fabrics Added to these are the
China silks and the excellent American surahs. The
latter il not only one OF the necessities but OF the
econon o. Of toilet; pOngees by any means 10
be forgotten the familiar French trcOt cloth. The
Irish cOrkscrew, the barncys and the Irish rleze are
simply intended for use regardless OF weather The
oorkscrew twiled and finest OF the three well as
lgntcst and Is made up into walking and travelling cos
tunes. we'll independent garments as long coats
aud redingotes; naturally these are made 10 pnu tailor
STYLE and finish without trimming. OF the other two
styles tho baey is rather tue more rough ana the
Latk checks br htcned IN tie centre with shaded
blue red or green. rhe frleZo, resuscated from an
oblivion OF eight years, has chlncma eject
tvttl
extremely thick but not too heavy. .
Some handsome Tine black wOOllens arc mtrOidered
ali over with loose Russian sttches in warm Oriental
shades; others are interviewer with bright tinsel
designs ana borders on the sevedge stripes OF tue
plain fabric alternate with others OF frse IN brilliant
coors Some OF the hannels have bright borders
and these utilized Tor the reiuyenaon OF last years
nanncis The pretty bOHcle fabrics are made mp into
quaint itts coats and long sacques for Little children IN
cOors OF dar6 blue, POmpeii red white ana chestnut
brown. The most delirate child presents most sub.
staual appearance in these long, comfortable coats.
For larger children particularly girls. there are clOaks
made sacuIe- shaped with gathered back and front;
sash is tied In front in large bow, and dainty ttc
and bow to correspond with the sash Is affixed to tho
neck.
HOSIERY.
Stockings are very gay. The geld embi Oidered and
beaded roses and lilies OF the present styles have
thy dropping tassols silk and ne BEADS in Others
the artistic min Cling of coors has been surpassed
in harmonious blendings OF pale olive brown and blue;
brown wine color, flesh color and warm olive, and
dark rcd aud olive Pretty stripes seen ia moss
green and rose pink black and red. blue cardinal
Vertical stripes OF brilliant colOrs divided by
narrow stripe OF lace. Another still daiDer style has
Of color and green tops and other feet OF
delicate coOrs with artistic contrasts. The finest silk
stockings Of plain black have hno silk soes, aud