National Republican., 1885-09-26
CITY or THE TRUE CROSS.
RAMBLINGs ABOUT LA VILLA RIGA DE
LA VERA CRUZ.
a Visit to tho Famous Fortress that
Wac the Last Stronghold OF spanish
Power-An Image that Tells the Tale
OF Female CrcduIity.

VERA Cruz, MEXICO, Sept. 8. For some
unaccountable reason It is not the fashion
in this city to ride in carriages, none but
the demi.monde indulging in that pleasant
practice. Arespectable Vera Cru2an would
no more be seen in any sort Of vehicle ex-
cept the common horso-car than she would
enter the doors of blgnio; therefore all
our explorations In and around this hot old
town must be made on foot, though tho
sun shine never so nercely. Happily for
sightseers, however, the city is small, the
pavoments excellent, and trumway passes
the principal points of interest.
The present Vera Cruz-which till re-
Gently was the capital Of the state of the
same name-was founded near the close OF
the sixteenth century by the Spanish vice
king, Count de Monterey, aud was raised 10
the rank of city by Philip III exactly go
years ago The original town, which Cortez
called La villa Ricn de Ia Vera Cruz (''Thc
rich City Of the True Grossly, lies several
miles north of this port, ON the Antigua
river; and it was at the latter place that he
commanded his vessels to be sunk before
beginning his murderous campaign in the
interior. Both are In the midst Of an cX-
tensive desert, whose arid sands are washed
by the stormy gulf on one hand aud
bounded by low, barren hills on the other.
IL is q common remark that the conqueror
should have set up his "True Crossr at
Anton Lizardo ilstcad--a point about fifteen
miles to the southward, where is the only
really good hGrbor on the whole gulf coast
THE FIRST sPANIARD
who landed IN Mexico was not Cortez, as
many suppose, but Don Grijalva, who came
in 1913 on a trading expedition, which
Valesqucz, the governor Of Cuba, had fitted
out 30 successful was Grijalva in swlnd-
al
more than $4,000 worth of gold In eN-
change for few worthless trinkets. This
profitable industry so stimulated the cupid
ity of the enterprising Valcsqucz that the
following year he sent out large company,
and gave the command of IL to u brave but
impecunious young adventurer known as
fernando Cortez-and behold how great
the result. Says the historian "Little did
the conquerordream that the desolate beach
on which he first planted his foot was one
day to be covered by nourishing city, the
great mart OF European and Oriental trade,
the commercial capital of New Spain.n
AT present more than two-thirds of MeXi-
co.'s commerce passes through this port Of
Vera Cruz, the custom house receipts being
about 100000 per month throughout the
year. The city is walled by nearly 5000
meters OF madrapore rock taken from the
bottom of the sea, and the ramparts are
studded with Notifications. The population
probably II is the cleanest city Of its size in
the world. Twice In every twenty-four
hours its streets are swept as tidy as par
lor floor. AS in the Holland villages, water
runs all day through IT'S cutters, which are
dug down both sides and through the mid
die of all the streets, and every night they
are thoroughly cleansed of impurities.
The city has fine cathedral, several
charmingly-ugly old churches, some thirty
schools, two hospitals, an almshouse, orphan
and blind asylums, a branch Of the Bauco
Nacional McXicano, casinos, theaters, gas
works, cigar factories, foundrics, electric
lights, telephones, and, in short, is nearly
spoiled for romantic sightseers by super
abundance of so-called ''modern improve
ments." Among the most noteworthy OF
its
ANCIENT LANDMARKS
is the old church of San Franciso, which Is
now used as a public library. Scattered
about with the books in its dim and quaint
interior are q number of antique tombs,
and among them is the grave of one Of
Cortez's granddaughters. The inquisition,
with its tiny barred windows and walls of
enormous thickness, has been transformed
into tenement house. where several broods
of happy children enliven the gloomy courts.
The two-storied casas Of plastered adobe,
all uniform in height and nearly so In size,
are tinted pale green, pink, yellow, blue
and each has blinds and balconies of darker
green. Every balcony is shaded by long
canvas curtains, generally white or striped
!, red and white, which, Mapping loosely in
the wind, present such an unusual appear
ance that 1t is no wonder
MRS. ULYSSES 8. GRANT
inquired on the occasion of her first visit
here why so many people had their blankets
out
The municipal palace, with its arcades
and lofty tower upholding n transparent
clock, makes an elegant showing on the
eastern side Of the public square. Directly
called "La Constitucion," whose dowery
walks are shaded by palms and Indian
laurel, and where military bands play every
evening to the sprouting Amazonian mer-
maids that grace its central fountain. The
splendid market place, known as La Plaza
del Mercado, was erected nearly fifty years
ago at the cost of more than $l00, 900.
Here, in the early mornings, we procure our
daily supply of Cuban aquacates for salads
and an Infinite variety of the most luscious
fruits the tropics can produce. Hundreds
OF mocking birds and top-knotted cardinals
echo the general din In this characteristic
Mexican market place, and yellow-headed
parrots, with marvellous talking and sing
ing powers can be bought for few pesos.
There are no end Of shops In Vera Cruz,
where fabrics and commodities from Paris,
London, Madrid, and other distant marts,
are offered for sale, but-owing to enor-
nous usduties-the prices are ludicrously high.
For example, q common woolen "iersey,o
which anywhere in the United States would
cost not more than $50, cannot be bought
here for less than $40, while on all ready
made clothing the duty is 145 per cent on
the original cost
The old colosseum, which was destroyed
by fire in 1911, has heen replaced by q
handsome and commodious theater, which
is nightly packed wththe elite Vera Cruz
is an exceptionally gay city, and its
pleasure-loving citizens are forever giving
brilliant fetes, attending balls and operas,
gambling, and otherwise dlsportlng them
selves, regardless of the fact that grim
death Is gathering constant harvest. Yet
despite all the mirth and music, IL must be
confessed that the queer old town is some
what melancholy, with its grass-grown
streets audshundreds Of huge black Zopi.
Totes (buzzards) that tumble about upon
the house tops utttering harsh discordant
cries. To kill one of the ravenous birds,
whether purposely or by accident, means a
fine Of So, though they swarm in countless
numbers, like vultures on field OF battle.
When ''northers" blow--which is about
three-quaIters OF the time-then the city OF
the True Cross is delabre indeed Fierce
winds that shake walls OF solid stone sift
into the houses clouds of fine, tlea-infested
dust, for the virgin soil hereabouts Is full OF
the most vicious and diabolically active little
insects that ever tortured the human cults
All the walls and towers OF the city, espe
cially those facing the harbor, are scanned
and scared by boisterous gales from ovei
the gulf. A Vera Cruz nOrther must be ex
perienced TO be appreciated, for no tongue
nor pen can do the subject justice. I'm
agine q night In this earthly hades, with
the thermometer skylarking among the
nincties, every crack and crevlce Of youi
habitaton Theoretically closed In vain en-
deavor TO keep out the dust, yet stinging
clouds Of it, freighted with fleas, Sitting in
somehow aud settling upon every object
while the walls around you sway with the
fornn Of tho simnnn the rnnf m fil 1