Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-09-05

Written for The Herald bu Leone. !"

Written for The Herald bu 8 Leone"
COMBINATIONS FOR AUTUMN DRESSES.
Combinations of plain and figured
goods will be used again for Autumn and
winter dresses.
For wooden costumes, two kinds of
wool will be chosen, one OF which is
plain, and the other striped, or in small
set figures. The newest stripes shown
are rough boucle or Astrakhan cloths,
alternating with smoother stuffs, which,
however. are only smooth BY comparison,
as they are heavily twilled, or in such
wide diagonal lines that each line stands
out like separate row of braid.
Woven borders near a single selvedge
are parts of many dress patterns, and
these are Of boucle striped broad enough
to be arranged as panels or as entire
fronts of skirts in combination with the
plain goods.
Ten wards of double-width wooden
goods are sold as dress pattern, and In
new combinations there are two and
half yards of fancy striped or figured
stuff with seven and half of plain ma
terial.
The plan remains in favor of using
plain goods for the corsage, sleeve and
drapery, confirming the figured material
to the lower skirt, and as garniture for
the plain corsage.
A panel, border at the foot, narrow
front breadth, or else the entire front
and side breadths, are to be made of the
figured material, and if sash of the
goods is used, the figured fabric forms
the ends of the wide sash of the PLAIN
stuff.
In the basque there are figured or
striped brestelles, or revers, or a plastron,
and in many cases an entire vest IN the
fashion of the present season.
The very high band or officers collar,
and the small cuffs may be of velvet
plush, entirely different from the other
parts of the dress, but they are also made
Of the figured or striped goods.
Flounces are not used on these heavy
fabrics, and pleats of skirts are very
scant, with all their breadth thrown to
the outside to look wide, while many
skirts have the front add sides entirely
plain, with pleats only in the back.
DOUBLE LACE CLOTHS.
A novel fabric invented to please the
prevailing taste for lace goods is warm
wool cloth with its surface covered all
over with netting in web-like lace pat
terms.
Guipeere designs in intricate patterns
show the perfection of weaving when
thrown in light threads of one or two
colors on a cloth back of some bright
contrasting color, that shows through the
netting, such as black on crimson, or
grey on blue, or brown on blue.
Then there are stripes of this lace-work
alternating with stripes of wool to form
part of the dress in combination with
the smaller figured lace cloth.
MOSAIC CLOTHS, COUGHING, ETC
A gay new fabric is wool of several
colors woven in small irregular bits like
mosaics or like the designs of crazy
quilts.
This is of very fine wool, SO flexible
and soft as India camel's-hair, and is i'm
ported in lengths of two or three yards,
to combine with plain camel 's-hair Of a
dull shade, and illuminate it by its rich
colors that combine rose, bronze, green,
brown and plum together, or dull blue
with orange brown, red or pale blue,
with olive, gold and brown.
Other stuffs have rough threads like
the COUGHING of embroidery, and these
thick threads are massed to form stripes
Bourette is woven with its rough threads
| in dashes of many colors all over the
fabric, or in large cross bars, and in the
prevailing stripes.
Some new stugs look like burlaps il
their wide, coarse threads, others ai
rough as a carpet, while still others have
the even frise loops, and many initiate
the shaggiest Astrakhan furs instead Of
the smoother Persian lamb-skins that arr
generally known as Astrakhan.
! vELvETs AND PLUSH.
Plain velvets are so largely imported
that of themselves they would constitut'
velvet season, +" but to these are add
ed striped and figured velvets, and tn
beaded and embroidered velvets.
The shaded pushes are shown in brown
and gray tints, some of which are callet
tiger plushes, and others merely ombre
but these are shaded in stripes or else il
close patterns.
Wide sashes with narrower hat scarf
to match are imported in wool goods, il
MORE, faille, satin, and velvet, with wild
striped or lowered designs across tn,
ends, and plain color for the main par
Of the sash.
| Hats for autumn wear appear to b,
growing higher and higher in the crown
height materially increased in the trim
mings employed. Milliners seem to b,
vying with each other in producing tn,
most astonishing effects.
There is literally no end to the variety
of new basques and bodices, and thes,
promise to become more and more varied
and novel in caprice as the season advan
ces. Upon a score of freshly imported
costumes no two of the waist design
corresponded. The vest effect is still
very noticeable characteristic of the lat
est Paris models, but here as in othel
styles, they present an array for freak
and fancies which are quite q study fol
artist or modiste.
Among French jacket models are thos,
showing extra front pieces sewed int
the side seams on the shoulders, and end
ing toward the front in very long points
that are to be knotted gracefully below
the stylish Vandyke collar of velvet which
graces the neck Of the jacket. The ends
to some Of these scarfs are richly hand
embroidered.
The economical and becoming fashion
of wearing velvet basque with skirts Of
contrasting material is revived, and will
be very popular during the coming sea
son.
1t is not at all essential, either, thai
velvet should enter into the construction
of the skirt, for this may be of one, two
or three fabrics bearing no relation what
ever to the velvet basques. LEONE.
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