Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1885-08-20
OUR NEW YORK LETTER
RosALMD MAYS Talk ABoUr
THE FASHIONS.
AZ Watering PIaces-The Grant
Mourning Outfit.

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AZ Watering PIaces-'rhe Grant
MOurning Outfit.
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specialaCorresponde of Gazette and Journal
New YORK, Aug. l3.-Pleasing to con-
template these warm DAYS. is the society
wrapper, genus divided into several
| species, among them still honnsIling the
Mother Hubbard, fourishing because SO
comfortable and comfortable in itaelf,
and within the folds of which one can
escape the all pursuing hustle. Yet there
are ardent souls that provide for this
omnipresent appendage, even when
wearing Mother Hubbard. The adjust
it at the back, belt in their gowns half
way, letting the front flow loose, and
thus only half comfortable, the compro-
mise with fate and come out on piazzas.
N ,e conventional and altogether more
proper wrapper is made in princesse shape
with vatican plait extending all the way
at the back, fitted in at the waist and the
front loose. All over embroidery is
effective, and a pretty one in this style
was lately worn by member of the Van
derbilt family. Blamelessly proper, and
connecting link between dress and
wrapper is skirt and matinee, and
should any bewildered soul inquire the
meaning of matinee, / answer a long
sacque fitted closely at the back with
loose fronts or else partly fitted in all
around. One of these morning dresses
was lately made up in white lawn for Mrs.
Paran Stevens, whose young sons dei-th
caused a shadow to Newport gaieiy.
SOCIETY SHOULDERS
are unobjectionably protected by the
Chuddah shawls of last season. Cream
white or plain colored these, and for the
most part showing pock-mnrked surface
with fringed out ends. As n change,
however. and more especially this years
production, come Chuddah scarfs wrought
with brocaded stripes in eastern colors on
white or colored grounds. Cashmere is
an orthodox substitute for the Ghuddah
shawl, and loses not prestige in being
homemade, that is in having the ends
fringed out by domestic fingers, the most
expensive, however, being fine cashmere
shawls with woven border of embroidery
and fringed ends. Very light weight
shawls are of thin gauze with bright
alternating stripes and bourette threads.
TENNIS COSTUMES.
The society tennis waist, is on the
blouse order, and may or may not CORE
spond with the skirt. This is convenient,
inasmuch as the waist of dress almost
always grows shabby in advance of the
skirt, while Furthermore, the need of a
special tennis costume is avoided.
Flannel is the regulation thing for these
blouses, and made up in regulation style
they can be bought in the stores or easily
enough, made at home. Make it with a
sailor collar, laced down the front, am
elastic band about the waist, below
which it should extend some distance,
belted in or not, according to option. But
the tennis scarfs are SO cunningly pretty,
that it seems a pity not to have one, the
more so, as by skilful needle-woman
they could easily be devised at home.
Take three yards of light weight satin,
embroider the ends in a fanciful tennis de-
sign such as balls and bats behold your
SASH and if of slender figure becoming
one. Sashes indeed are relieving fea-
ture in summer dress. Young women not
few are painfully slender, and the
brnchiness of sash, whether en- suite
with the costume, of muslin, of silk or
wide ribbon produces an agreeable optical
illusion. Striped or dotted flannel is
usually selected for the tennis waist.
Coming to elaborate and specially made
tennis costumes, we find them of fine
white or colored wool with satin
scarf, tie at the neck to match
and sailor hat trimmed in keeping.
Equally pretty regulation costumes are
of fine, light weight, striped wool.
Kilt plaits are in great favor for
tennis dresses. Again, the skirt may
hang full and straight or there can be
short apron front with longer back
drapery. A pretty simplicity is the idea
which struggles for expression in these
dresses, an absence of complications,
giving freedom of action. Shoes are of
canvas with rubber soles. There are
high boots buttoned on the side or laced
in front, but some styles are low in keep
ing doubtless, with the present popularity
of low shoes. Black and dark colored
hosiery have doubtless something to do
with the free way in which they are worn
out of doors, since the same general
effect as boot is produced while there
is greater GOODNESS and comfort.
THE GRANT OUTFIT.
The Grant family mourning outfit as
furnished by Lord d Taylor, was largely
composed of clarrette, a species of nuns
yelling. The generals widow had dress
of this material with Grape fans let in be-
tween long drapery, pointed whist, collar
and cuffs of Grape; also crepe de chine
covered with Grape and nuns yelling
with long, half-fitting sacque heavily
trimmed with crape Mrs Snrtnris elNr
rette dress with wide tucks and drapery
trimmed with Grape; Mrs. Fred Grant,
clarrette with skirt in cluster plaits and
full drapery; Mrs. Jesse Grant, clar-
rette with skirt of wide tucks and paniers.
White dresses made plainly with tucks
for n
little granddaughters; black camers
hair suit for four-years-old grandsonand
a complete jersey suit with cap and sash
for one year older.
NOTES.
Gauze fans are very much used this
season, decorated usually with painted
landscapes and mounted on pearl or
ebony sticks. Such light styles have in
terfered with lace fans, which are reserved
for evening, but as change we see many
feather fans, both the quill painted and
the ostrich. Fine grenadine stimulates
gauze, while MS variety come in deco
rated paper fans gotten up in Chinese
styles with red lacquered or ebony sticks
Waists of Roman sash ribbon are among
the prettiest things at summer resorts.
The stripes may be arranged either length
wise or crosswise, and there can he full
sash and back drapery to natcn. A lace
skirt, black or white, is in great favor as
n combination, and in this case the sleeves
of the waist can be of lace to match.
Pale or dark sash ribbons are utilized
for these very pretty waists MS well us the
bright Roman colors, as witness waist
of dark blue, delicately striped, worn re-
Gently at Saratoga by young niece of
Judge Hilton. The skirt was of white
lace with lace sleeves and heart-shaped
neck RosALIND MAY.
The Naval akOard ln Chester.