St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-06-07
SUMMER FASHIONS.
Latest New York Designs and seasonable
Fabrics that will Interest
the Fair Sex.
Garden and Party Dresses--Vest
Fronts for Vacation Re-
sorts -GrenadineS.
Trimmings rundown Collars.
misunderstanding C1oaks--
Straw Hats.


latitude in combination of colors, and one is
at liberty to wear bonnet of one color with
a dress of second and wrap of third.
This is very dangerous to those who have
not good taste and are not blessed with an
intuitive sense of the artistic and the lifting
White and light cOlorS are pushing their
way forward notwithstanding large women
object to them on the ground that they
make them look large. But it is beginning
to be considered desirable to be stout, and
thinness has apparently had its day. Women
of size and grand proportions are now re-
ceiving their share of admiration, and they
should take care to dress so as to be shapely.
Fine and light woods are very fashionable
this season, and it is well to make trial OF
them. If they are made simply and in
some of the pretty styles of the season they
certainly will give much pleasure to the
wearer. The general style Of the costumes
in preparation
FOR YOUNG GIRLS
for garden and dancing parties the coming
summer seems to border on the Louis XIV.
fashion. There are full skirts OF changeable
taffeta or mousseline de sole and Swiss cor
selets of brOcade With lace in front over
full soft chemisettes of Grape or of the ma
terial of the dress. The sleeves are not as
tight as they have been and some are made
in puffs separated by bands OF ribbon and
others are of two materials with the effect
of one sleeve showing beneath another.
The border of the skirts of such toilets is
finished with ruche Of silk, often in two
colors, pinked out, and is very effective. A
lot of tulle is worn about the throat. with a
ieweled pendant, but a prettier fashion still
ice boY of hiT,roI fo
little pOmpOn on one side. These neckietS
are in any color becoming to the wearer.
Vests offer decided contrasts, indeed they
are not expected to match at all. and some
are made so narrow that ribbon three inches
wide is used for the purpose. 1t begins with
it's natural width at the neck and slopes to
point at the waist line. The vest is inlaid
and pretty style is to button the waist
down each side of the vest. If the dress is
of black wool, the vest is pretty of MORE
ribbon with white gallOon for both vest and
revers. A V shaped piece for front and
back of dresses is made of velvet, beaded
grenadine or lace and is very dressy. Mus
lin dresses have tucked V in back and
front, and others have points of embroidery
set in.
SOME ELEGANT DRESSES
have been made for fashionable summer re-
sorts Of beaded grenadine mixed with a pro-
fusion of black lace. The beads are small
| and interviewer, and not heavy and do not
| rub off as formerly. A lovely example is of
| black net with designs in gold and silver
tinsel scattered over the front, and all the
rest in lace. 1t is comforting to those ladies
| who make their own dresses that the beaded
| laces and nets are now made with the beads
woven in, which saves much time and strain
| upon ones patience in the sewing Of them
| in. Deep puffs and 1ounces upon the back
of the skirt are out of date and the back is
either draped simply OF hangs straight
Dainty dresses of soft white wooden Ben
galine show the front of the skirt made with
scant puffings covered with fine wooden lace.
The bodice is striped with wooden lace in
sertions, low lining edged with lace, and
the sleeves entirely of lace. With this is
worn belt of cream MORE and satin rib
bon with bows. These lovely cream wooden
laces can now be obtained in the piece, and
are pretty for covering light peach blossom,
heliotrope and apricot silks. A dressy model
in light brown silk has the front and side
covered with this lace, Topped up on one side
with bows and ends of wide velvet ribbon,
the same shade as the dress. Lace cutaway
fronts are sewed in the under arm seams
very pretty. The model is simple and can
be made at home with but little trouble.
There is new lead beaded
TRIMMING
that is used upon black wool in conjunction
with steel and jet for second mourning. 1t
is not confined to mourning purposes, and
is very effective on some shades Of red.
This trimming is new and hard to find and
expensive The best styles are artistic in
design, showing blending of jet, silk, lead
and steel, and are especially rare.
The finest thin black material is the sew
ing silk grenadine, enriched with small en-
broidered figures This is also shown in
armure patterns, and makes up beautifully
over satin This fabric is well suited to the
trimmings of wide, fine jet and lace now so
fashionable. These rich grenadines with
costly ornamentation make very expensive
costumes, much more so than dresses of
lace, because the lace is wide and does not
require as much material for decorative
purposes.
The little spring and summer mantles are
complete success. Handsome ones are
offered at moderate prices. but they are so
easily made that many ladies secure pat
tern and get them up at home. The various
styles are so well known that they now
need no description. They are made in
colors more than in black, either in figured,
brocaded or embossed material and trimmed
with rich chenille fringes. Those in velvet
brocaded grenadine are trimmed with lace
and bead fringe.
SMALL BLACK MANTLES
are masses of jet and lace OF beaded en-
broidery and fringe. A very graceful fea-
ture of the small mantles is rich plaitings
of lace which form sleeves or deep epaulettes
set in high on the shoulder. Cutaway
jackets of closely beaded net are pretty over
dresses, but are not intended for street
wear The Anatolia and Marjolaine are
the best forms of viSite, while the Larch-
mont pelisse and Media cloak are excellent
models for travelling. These are made in
pin checks or light tricot cloth, or in mohair
or fine camers hair lined with surah.
Extremely stylish are the large black lace
cloaks that are worn purely for effect. One
recently ordered was plated from the top
and finished with a wide, beautiful hounce
at the bottom. 1t is to be worn over a
mauve silk dress: the bonnet of mauve silk
gauze is covered with black lace to match
and ornamented with an aigrette of mauve
feathers and pansies. The suit is exquiS-
itely lovely.
The long, straight, princess travelling
cloaks are made to button down the entire
front, with flat plaits set on below the
waist at the back. Mohair at so cents
yard will make nice garment of this pat
tern, which will prove most durable
wrap for summer travelling. India pongees
can now be had as low as 81 apiece. One
piece will make two of these garments,
which brings the cost down to very mod
crate price.
1t is said that very cheap straw bonnets
are not worth buying, though certain
lady acknowledges to buying one for 10
cents of navy blue rough straw, trimming
it with dark red and blue velvet; and it did