Weekly Phoenix herald., 1885-02-26
TEXAN TOUCHES.
A Spicy Letter from our Travel
 ing Correspondent.
Fl PasO SpecIaIities-Sun Ser vices Composed of Cock Fights, Tangle Leg
 And the Tiger,

; bestowed by nature and situation : possibly a few words to Pheniz
 readers on the objects of interes
 en UoyGge may be interesting
 As most Phenicians know by per-
 sonal experience that part of their
 own Territory which ends with
 Deming, I will begin my letter with
 Fl Paso, the terminus of the $. F
 and the commencement of the T. P.
 railroad systems.
 All spanish scholars know that
 this town IS the old Northern Pass of
 the Rio Grande. It is one of the
 most favorable spots for studying the
 antique and the modern in American
 history, for here civilizations meet.
 The American Fl Pase IS but few
 years old, and its birth dates from
 the completion of the different lines
 that focus at this point. Its boom 1 occurred during the labor conse-
 quent thereon. That being ended,
 the people are wondering whence
 will come the wherewithal to live |. l Modern enterprise though IS by no
 means unprogressive and 8 copper
 shelter for Mexican mines is talked of, while the Mexican Central rail-
 road, whose terminus is here, brings considerable commerce from the
 sister Republic.
 Fl Paso has now one or two fine
 hotels, the best being the Central
 and Capital, accommodation being reasonably furnished at Mrs. Ander- sons, the American House. On
 February 9th large and commodi>
 ous new hotel, the Pierson, was
 opened, which shows that some people here have faith in Fl Paso's future. A street car over the Rio
 Grande carries you to the Mexican Fl Paso del Norte, town of several centuries of age. The custom house off :; ials are not unduly obtrusive in their attentions but when paying
 time comes, the charges are high. As soon as you enter MexIco you are struck forcibly with the contrast between old and new civilization. On one side the river are street cars, electric lights, telephones, daily papers and American enterprise; or
 the other side are a few saloons, some American stores, some adobe buildings, plaza, an anc1ent church, hooded women, blanketed men and Mexican stagnatien. Of one thlng though the visitor must beware, not to trust to the apparent Mexican simplicity, for the best Chicago and San Francisco card sharpers here find their match and discover to their sorrow that Mexican simpletons are too shrewd for them at the1r own tricky games.o Surely far Western towns are very oriental. Here are old qnadrangles and caravansaries as Tn ancient Jerusalm; as you enter | through the door into one of the | squares, you ind tethered to the different posts many game roosters kept and fed up ready for the Sun day fights On Sunday afternoons cock fighting is the great amusement l of the natives and visitors. The | cock pit is formed, gamblers and | greasers sit upon the seats around it | the birds are weighted and com mented upon, steel knives are tied | upon their legs, and when all is ready (which is not till after much patient waiting for Mexicans never hurry) the decisive blow is struck and one or two roesters are in cons dition to furnish food fer their owners on the morrow, while the | stakes are duly delivered to their res spective winners.
 The church, however, is the great object of interest to tourists It is 200 or 25O years old, is built of | adobe with cedar ceiling. Every | wooden pillar and post is carved by the Mexicans and serves as display l of their rude art. The pictures, 1 images and crosses are not indeed of | high artistic order, but it is the ] best the owners can do, and is de> voted to the worship of that Christ | whose disfigured, blood@ bespattered | body hangs in sculpture in the ad> joining chapel. Peter and John and the Madonna, with three shrlnes | for the worshipers, respectively of Jesus Uhrlst, His sacred heart and l the blessed Virgin. The bell in the tower was hung up there in 1754 and while " messing the cock fight in the pit wonder you will be reminded | when it rings for Vespers that it is the holy Sabbath day. The clapper of the bell is fastened by piece of raw COW hide, which looks most Mexican. From the tower top you get capital view of the surrounds ing country. IThe American Fl Paso looks lovely with it's mountain back ground, and would furnish good study for the painter. Mexico seems stagnant; the grass grows on the flat roofs of the adobe houses and the water conducts are ready to dis4 charge thelr draining on the luckless passer-by. You are glad to return the old mission vineyards to Uncle Sam's territory, whence the Texas Pacific railroad will speedily carry you through the Lone Star State.
 From Fl Paso you travel 300 miles to Big Springs, where are the com> pany's works. This the first town