The new North-west. [volume] (Deer Lodge, Mont.) 1869-1897, 1885-10-09
WHOLE NO. S48.
J'HE FASHIONS
New Dress Materials.
HHTptr ; BsAZE.I
WOOL LACE DRESSES,


Wool laces are very largely imported for
au umn use, AMI are shown in founces ayard
dsap to cover the en- tire dress skirt as far as
it is visible. Thse lac,s ara now made Of
the durable mohair, which is firmer than the
soft wool woven into such lace5 last season;
the patterns are small and nav, or else they
reproduce those Of antiqus guipure lace; a
small scallopei design finishes one edge,
which Is to serve as the foot Of the skirt.
These founces are sold in four-yard lengths
for toe entire skirt, and are to be made up
over silk, wool or satin in q plain round
skirt. Such founces cost from "a to SIS
Il yard. and are also sold in shorter
lengths Of one yard, or else yard and ahalf,
to cover merely the front AMI part Of the
sd,s of the skirt in combination with fine
wCols for the back and drapery. such Is
Thibet cloth, Henrietta cloth or the diago.
nal serges. Still other wool laces are Inn
ported in set pieces for the front Of tho
skirt representing many rows Of insertion,
while others come in borders to b, set in as
insertion around panels of the dress
goods. Pointed piastrons quite wide at the
top accompany these skirt trimmings.
Every color IL represented in mohair laces,
and many show two contrasting colors.
TIE wool iaces for trimming plain wool cor
sages are about four inches wide, and will
cost fifty to seventy-fve cents q yard.
There are also piece laces, of which mantles
are to be made over satin and combined
with velvet; both small mantles and large
wraps viii be worn Of this lace, trimmed
with fur, passementerie and frills Of the seal
loped lace
DOUBLE LACE CLOTHS.
A novel fabric invented to please the pre-
vailing taste for hce goods is q warm wool
cloth, with its surface covered all over with
netting in web-liks lace patterns. Guipure
designs of intricate patterns show the per-
lection Of weaving when thrown in light
threads Of one or two colors on a cloth back
of some bright contrasting color that shows
through the netting, such as black on Grim.
son, blue on poppy red, gray on blue, or
rown on blue Then there are stripes Of
this lace work alternating with stripes of
wool to form par. Of tie dress in combina-
ton with the smaller-fgured lace cloth.
vELvETs AND PLUSH.
Plain velvets are so largely imported that
of themsel YES they would constitute 'tvel-
vet season." but to these are aided striped
and figured velvets. and the beaded and EN-.
broidered vevets that are to form the COM
binations with plain velvet or with uncut
velvet costumes. A plomb or lead -colored
beads, will be a stylish choice for autumn
and winter, but the still larger importations
Of brown velvets both for dresses and bon
nets point to these warmer browns as q
more certain choice for o winter toilet.
The use OF carved wood beads in brown
shades on brown velvet Is q novelty for tho
front breadth, the plastron, collar and cuffs
of brown velvet dresses. There are also
many brown wool laces for such dresses,
and the velvet bonnets to accompany such
toilets have wooden beads forming the coro-
net or edging the brim, while many tinsel
threads are employed in embr oidering the
crown. While brown remains q leading
color, gilt will not be entirely banished. yet
the besb dealers import IL sparingiy, giving
the preference to tinsel threads Of many
shades. The shaded plushes are shown in
brown and gray tints, Soma of W. ch are
called tiger plushes, and Others merely
ombre, but these are shaded in stripes or in
close patterns instead of all the way across
from selredge to selvedge q they formerly
were. Next the beaded velvet fronts Jnere
are applique velvets that have the effect Of
trausparents when nut on wool or silk OF
contrasting color; these come in side panels
or in q siugle front breadth, or foot bor-
der, and with the necessary garniture for
the tasuue