St. Paul daily globe., 1885-12-27
HOLIDAY DRESSES.
Costumes Rich in Material Adapted
for Cold.Weather Wear.

for Cold-Weather Wear.
The great attraction in the walking cos
tunes and visiting toilets worn this winter
consists in their looking exceedingly COM
Portable in addition to their very stylish ap-
pearance. There is, however, one objection
to the fashionable dress of to-day, and that
is the decided prominence of the tournure
Over year ago, in the models of elegant
toilets sent here from abroad in extreme
styles, the large bustle was even then de-
velOped, but American ladies have just
made up their minds to accept tournures in
their grOtesquely magnitied proportions,
and while they may look all right after peo-
pie get used to seeing them, they are GER
tainlY quite as uncomfortable, if not more
so, than
THE TIED-BACK SKIRTS
of some years ago, because, in addition to
the restraining strings and elastics which
must be used to hold the parts in position,
there rests on the weak portion of the spine
and back pillow of hair, supplemented
by bands of steel running in tucks or sec
tiOns in the skirt, and the foundation so
shaped is covered with enough material
arranged in loops or folds to make re-
spectacle suit, and yet ladies wear this un-
comfortable and unhealthy back arrange
ment without protest. What man would
so torture himself?
While our ladies are growing accustomed
to cushions and outstanding effects in the
back, our foreign rivals are endeavoring to
create new results. M. Worth, the Partisan
artist, is trying to bring in a new sort of
imitation of the side hoops, which, perhaps
is seen to the best advantage in the cele-
brated picture of Marie Antoinette at the
Trianon in full dress. He has been show
ing some ball gowns with steel crinolettes
placed apparently at the sides; but one au-
thority says that even this great master of
THE ART OF DRESSING
and color combination does not appear, at
all events as yet, to have the power of
making the public appreciate such an un-
wieldy and ungraceful innovation.
Neat, plain tailOr-made costumes are
most in favor, for they are in a style which
admits of no elaborate details. The bodice
is vest or jacket, well-ftted to the waist,
with or without waistcoat, with basque
neither too long nor too short, sometimes
open at the seams, sometimes not. but it
always has a few plats in the middle of the
back. The collar is either turned up or laid
fiat. The facingS are mostly simulated at
the edge of the narrow sleeve; in a word, a
riding habit minus the extra length of
skirt. The longest skirt for a costume
made tailor-fashion leaves the lowest half
of the boot uncovered; it is quite plain
round the foot, and finished with a stitched
hem four inches deep. The upper skirt is
rather short, and loOped up loosely on one
side and full in the back. The overskirt.
or scarf, may be plainly hemmed by hand
ooh1 -Ctif ifnh fba -
considered the most elegant.
The princess style is now very fashion
able. This shows the princess back cut in
one with the bodice. There are five widths
in the skirt, which is allowed to fall plain
and full. A walking suit of green plush is
trimmed with sable: it
OPENS DOWN ONE SIDE
to admit glimpse of waves of cardinal
faille, plating of the same rich color being
visible just below the skirt.
Many loose-fronted jackets are supplied
with plated waistcoats; one in navy blue
cloth discloses folds of poplin and has revers
ard tabs of the same, the fronts, which are
| otherwise loose, being fastened at the waist
by one large button. A costume of pente
velvet in deep shade of chestnut has the
skirt edged with a scroll stripe matching
nearer in color, and the jacket, which is
bordered with beaver, is left open at the
throat to display blouse-like chemisette of
transparent figured surah.
Upon an effective skirt of plush the spots
and colorings of the leopard's coat are faith
fully reproduced. Over this is draped
cashmere, into which is introduced Ben
galine broche stripe, the leopard plush re-
appearing in the waistcoat and cuffs. An
old toilette of bottle-green velvet, faced
with apricot faille, has panels of brocaded
flowers woven in their natural colors upon
white ground, and over them waves of
jetted net, which subdues the colorings and
obviates what might be too violent con-
trast.