Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-11-07

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Bands of astracan, bands OF otter or bea-
yer fur, bands of cloth of different
shade or color upon which are executed
braidings or embroideries, and for dresses
beaded passmenteries. which can re di-
Vded into independent ornaments, and
used singly, in groups, or continuously as
band or border. Beads and beaded EN-
broldery have become epIdemic; the
wooden "chaplet" beads have 'caught
on so quickly, and become so popular,
that their life will be likely TO he a short
one. Yet they are the most real things Of
the kind we have had for a long time, and,
prettily carved, possesses genuine artistic
beauty. AS for the glass beads, they sim
ply show well III good combinations,
and with reflected light. Some
exquisite entire fronts of dresses have
been received lately, covered with lovely
LEAKAGE in apaline beads wrought closely,
SO that every thread Of the foundation is
covered. This work is done upon tulle
and costs $50 per breadth; il should be
placed over satin and the embroidery re-
peated upon the plastiOn of the low bodice.
There Is great deal of show, but very
little reality in what are called "ietted"
| trimmings, be they white, black or col
| ored. There is hardly such thing as
| real cut jet to be found. even ut the best
| houses; ''pressed" machine-made bead
ings and trimmings are put alike upon
| bOnnets aud jackets at $40 and 500, and
bOnnets and jackets at $40 and $40. When
jet was less used, some discrimination
was possible in its selections one could
get fine, real cut jet by paying for it.
Now IL cannot be found. To represent
value, manufacturers only pile on guam
tity.
Striped stuffs and even shaded border
lngs are cut up for trimming, but braid
ing velvet and fur take the lead, astracans
being perhaps more used than any
other one material. The "knife' effects
in braidlng obtained by setting narrow,
cord-like braid upon edge, and which were
fashionable last year, nave subsidized.
Probably one reason is the necessity of
sewing it on by hand, or purchasing
special and recently invented attachment
TO sewing machine to execute 1t. But,
doubtless, more potent cause than this
Will be found IN the general tendency to-
ward adoption of such trimmings as are
put or fiat or are part of the material
ITSELF The fine wool materials, with
lace-like stripes, which are woven so as
give the effect Of being lined with a solid
color, have been previously referred to.
Another imported design has the front of
the dress covered with fiat braid in
basketwork, a contrasting color or shade
in velvet or plush, showing through the
space left by the plating. The crowns of
bOnnets are made in this wayEand mutfs
of it have been ordered to match
dresses.
! One feature of the French hats and
dresses is the arrangement of trimmings
upon the back, quite as much as upon the
| front OF the crowns and bodies. The Vio-
| lin plating upon the back is revived, and
| braces which cross the shoulders are car
| ried down the back as well as the front.
| The ugliness of the high hats Is eXagger-
"a cd nv bo linn Of Ia Of
| the straight, stiff wings and feathers with
which they are decorated, and when they
| are arranged all around, or ever on two
| sides-front and backbone feels that life
| offers no compensation for the infection
of such a horror. Feathers are decidedly
hostile in their appearance this season,
and are grouped without any regard to
/ sympathy or the natural correlation OF
| forces. II they only stand up straight
and reach far enough they are all right
Plumes of lovely curled ostrich feathers
| are neglected or sold for a song, while the
rage for the wings of the barnyard fowl,
/ such as are used in the country for
''hearth busters" continues.
CoRDURoY-ORNAMENT OF "ARIzoNA
| WOOD.
Corduroy is still used, the grey being
generally preferred, and buttons in old
| (oXydised silver, with carved heads upon
finish, however, is very fine, silk Innings
being used and the best tailor stitching,
It's use is also nearly limited to little boys
and jackets for ladies'; skirts of corduroy
having been found heavy and unadapt-
able. There are great variety of new
clasps, buttons and other ornaments in
old silver, bronze, carved wood and re-
naissance styles, which combine wrought
metal with antique carved heads, and
small Rhine stones, turqurises, Indian or
Bohemian garnet. tiger eyes, moOnstOnes,
cats eyes and agates. In this connection
may also be mentioned the possibilities
suggested by a novel display of articles
made from agate and "Jaspar'' woods,
obtained from Arizona, and "agatiZed'' or
'jasparized" by the action OF minerals in
the soil and water surrounding embedded
trees, and perhaps precipitated by vol
canic action. Whatever the cause, the
result is wood apparently as hard as
stone, containing the color Of the ruby,
the amethyst, the tiger-eye, the moon
stone, the sun-stOne, the cats eve and the
blOod-st0ne, with the exquisite lines and
delicate tracery of the agate, the onyx, the
the iaspar and the cOrnelian. 1t is also
capable OF receiving a polish fully equal
to that of the agate and jaspar from the
Ural mountains. The discovery Of this
precious sOlidihed wood opens up new
field of use and adOrnment. Ornaments
made of such materials are eagerly bought
by those who understand and appreciate
their natural beauty and value, and the
opportunities offered for artistic workman
Ship. At present, the ornamental articles
are confined to sleeve buttons, beads,
''Queen Anne" chains, 1.-THE short watch
CHAINS now so fashiOnable,) and few
others of semi-use and ornament. The
material for these is sent to Oberstein TO
be cut, but with the resources in Arizona
from which this is derived, manufacture
ing establishment will doubtless shortly
be equipped here, which will develop the
possibility Of this extraordinary material
and expend upon it the fine workmanship
which adds so much TO the value OF SINH
lar productions I'm Europe. Cut by hand,
the beads, the clasps, the Ohaplets, the
carved heads, made from the Arizona
agate would certainly equal, II not sur
pass, any thing Of the kind in existence,
and genuine addition TO American orna-
mental resources may therefore be posi-
lively anticipated.
SCOTCH sPECIALTIEs AND INDIA sHAwLs.
Other quite new and very attractive
things which come under the same cate
CORY, are Scotch specialties, and consist
OF grouse claws mounted with silver, and
set in the small hOoElike end with a
cairn-g0rm stone. These are used for
shawl and cloak fastenings, and also for
hat ornaments, though they are 50 and
upwards each. They suit exactly the