Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-11-07

Nrw YORK, Nov. Ga Partisan novel
- .as described the interior of great
49,, GOODS house, it's piles of soft and
ming fabrics, the flashing of its many
80 the infinite variety of its allure
'ssnts IN strong terms, but it is a ques-
.ion it is too strong, when the disipating
,fsct OF such lavish display upon the
r,i,ds of the young and easily influenced
:. considered. Nor are the structures APP
rrcable to Paris alone; they are equally
inited TO New YOrk-more true, indeed,
nr the confusion is greater here, the IN
,rinsic merit less ana the waste incom-
noraply more, and more widely distrib-
rted. Taking a general view Of the great
chan. and their contents, which line the
or,.ctnal thoroughfares of the Empire
c,tv. one is amazed at the apparent guam
NV and value Of the wares displayed.
There is no apparent order or classified
lion. but the articles and manufactured
Goods seem to be alike valuable, and are
purchased alike by the rich and the poor.
Examine them more closely, and one
en6s how mucn OF them is sham,
"pressed" designs. machine embroidery,
coarse tinsel, applique work unfinished
mon the edges, every thing done for eff
taot and to initiate something that has
rpal value. There are plenty of lmita-
tons in Paris and every other foreign
city. but they are labelled, they are not
MIXED I'd with the fine work and they are
confined more strictly to ornamental
wares, not found to such an extent upon
what should be useful dress fabrics.
When ornamentatiOn is put upon wool,
simple wool, abroad, it is usually of a
L. ali ind
snowy tinsel patterns, only fit for their
trimmings, laces. and embroideries.
LYING in heaps, these tinsel-stufs retain
nothing Of the beauty which they possess
when threads Of gold or threads of silver
are woven into the groundwork of rich
fabric, or are put in with the needle, in de-
signs specially adapted to the material
and its uses. Iinsel upon wool is always
out Of place. 1t will not stand exposure
unless of genuine quality, and TO be pure,
must be much higher than the average
buyer Is willing to pay. Ii it is not good
ii not only shrinks and furnishes, but 1t
spoils the appearance of the fabric, which
in itself may be OF genuine quality.
PROBLEMS IN ECONOMY-A STUDY IN
STRIPES.
1t is pitiable to see in this wild cOnfu-
sion of design and material, the utter be-
widerment OF women, whose means and
knowledge of ways and methods are both
limited; nor is there any source from
which they can obtain enlightenment.
One can only have a thing well done by
paying very high price for it. The Ordi-
nary woman cannot pay high price, and
her problems are always presenting them
selves afresh, and forever remaining I'M
solved. There is a multitudinous variety of
fabrics, but they require an artists eve,
nd ~ RI Enaru inc h of 70
do with them, how to arrange them with
out stiffness or fOrmality, how to make
them suggestive rather than obvious, and
picturesque instead Of commonplace.
Among the most dominant ideas of the
season, in fabrics of every description,
are stripes. Stripes are proverbiaIly hard
TO manage, particularly when they are
wide and solid and far apart. They are
obstinate as well as aggressive;
they are worse than a fence, they are
like a wall which you can neither
get over nor ride around. The difficulty
is increased when the stripes are horizon
tai instead of perpendicular, ''BalmOraP
stripes as they are called from the linsey-
WOOlsey skirts which were fashionable 25
years ago, the first cOlOred skirts fashion,
ably worn and Of very great service in Law
ing a foundation which fashion accepted
for sensible, useful and adaptable article
Of clothing that has never since been laid
aside. But the BalmOral skirtings were
Gin the finer grades clustered and shaded;
they were besides, employed as under
wear, only for little while and to a very
limited extent as'parts Of costumes, so did
not present the obstacles that the present
rage for wide stripes does to the m0diste.
Graduated, clustered or forming a solid
border for the bottom of the dress, they
can be managed. but running all around
and widely spread between, either the
fabric must be sacrificed or a bad effect
produced.
STRIPES ARTIsTICALLY CONSIDERED
REVIVAL OF A PRIMITIVE STYLE.
The question becomes serious when the
stuis are costly, as for example a rich
brown French fdttle with stripes of
shaded silk plush, initiating grebe fur,
orstripes of uncut velvet upon Ottoman,
OrYelyet upon satin merveiieux. A fine
knife plating upon the edge Of the striped
material, used as skirt, and a long
drapery caught up on one side and con-
ceallng the other, offers one solution, but
inflit and economy dislike much to con-
ceal costly material; and, indeed, what
Is the use OF paying from 81 to 81 for a
sAlrt TO cover up? A charming dress.
made the other day, combined a red
SKIRT with black velvet stripes, with a
nNely, soft wooden material, in dark,
smoke shade OF blue, with an embroid-
cred red, olive and blue sprig outlined by
amere line OF gold. The velvet stripes
ulo not ascend To the waist, only about
t"o-thlrds Of the distance. and they were
Aot vide, perhaps an inch and half,
certainly not more. The spaces between
were also lessened by blue Kensington
embroidery in crewels, fastening the
olses oil the velvet and extending in her
nhg-bone pattern beyond them upon the
req wool Of the skirt. The overdress was
VI the embroidered material and very
gracefully crossed and draped to one
slue out this dress, simple as it looked.
anu r made only for house dress. cost 1925.
me latest development is in solid vel
.etor plush placed close together, but in
elauuated widths, the upper one repre-
sehtIng the fifth or seventh in numbers.
perhaps half an inch wide, the lower one
,,tHcIeased TO an inch and half termina-
~ ~ ~ curious mass Of frayed out and
oopea fringe, which laid close at first. is
ha"uually loosened into softly waved silk
-. iuops, which form a thick and messy
minse. luis is revival OF very old
os3Ie' the beginning Of fringe, which was
g, lslnlally made by fraying out the silker
.o's-llhe threads from the ends OF the fab
~. ~ and knotting them. Only pure and
aioa fabrics can be used for this purpose
Z, NV! y. tue cost would limit their use, even
~ .uey could be readily found, which they
sseeuhot, only small quantity and few
,Huues having been imported. Besides
.leIe is problem 20 solve in regard 10
s sse unlsh OF such dresses. The patterns,