Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-10-03

woven solid, but preserving the lace or transpac
rent lattice effect of the summer material
VISIT TO WORTH.
Mr.. Worth had only just returned from Q trip
to Trouville when called upon him In the Rue
| De La Paix. "Oh," said he, "you American
ladies are terrible! You are here today and
gone tomorrow. You arrive when 1t Is too hot
| to think and when one must stop to breathe. or
die, and you want the cream Of everything
Worth's styles are always different from any
thing one finds elsewhere. One OF his designs
pink and yellow tinted roses. A side panel,
over which the yellow satin formed certain
d5aPery, was Of plated tuIls, With iire and jew;
separate rows, from light to dark, not mixed.
conjunction with brown. He also uses Venetian
veHst In dark and Of
broideries Of chenille, velvet, and chaplet beads,
| or made to open over velvet and satin striped
brown. An all brown and gold dress was OF
brown satin Francois over brown silk plush,
with fine gold and velvet trimming upon the
sam In small squares. forming rich passe-
menterie. An all brown plush costume was
outtoned at the side with gold buttons over q
| leaves outlined and veined with gold. The
plush robe was embroidered with chinchilla
and exhibited the buttons and simulated but
four were fastened, the rest OF the skirt open
| ed to show the rich satin skirt with its velvet
and gold LEAKAGE. A pretty autumn suit was Of
bronze in the corded and rosaried passemen-
tarie.
ADDRESS FOR A YOUNG GIRL
was OF red velvet in bands upon red wool en-
broidered upon the edge otthe velvet with blue
wool In Kensington stitch. It Is rather early
yet for cloaks, but 1t seems to be decided that
they will be either very short or very long, a
medium size or length being usually common
effect nd mr. nrOteCtfOn
nor stylish dress. A striking theater cloak was
OF strawberry red brocade, lined with primrose
point and showers of small gold sequins which
fell In deep point, reaching nearly to the waist.
over the lace, at the back.
Mr.. WOrths autumn nantles form q basque
Dodlee at the back, and long ends, reaching
nearly to the foot, in front They are arranged
| riched with the most exquisite embroideries
and beaded trimmings. Its almost impossible
40 ten wnat the Ionndatlon materiaa Is, tney are
which fills in the outlines of simulated jacket
braces or bodices, forming part Of the design.
| ugly mandarin sleeves arc disappearing, and
the doubled fold of q cape, forming the sleeve,
Il o ss p
handsome striped or plain plush lining. The
| Charity" cape, so called because the sleeve in
| used when the monks employed the sleeves as
pockets in which to carry the loaf on a journey,
much worn by young ladies as an Independent
little wrap; the lining of old gold, dull yellow,
petunia, or plum-colored silk, forming con-
| trast to the SOFT low-tOned grays, fawns and
browns in cloth, of which the cape is composed;
straight, high collar of velvet, lined with silk,
| finished in at the throat.
A REPUBLIC OF FASHIONS.
| One thing is very obvious in Paris just now,
and that is that it is a republic of fashions as
| well as of politics. There is keener competition
than ever on the part of individual leaders and
| authorities to maintain the supremacy Of the
Partisan styles; but there is no longer any
single standard or supreme authority, such as
was recognized when the Empress Eugene
@ ey right OF her beauty ssr and TASTE
all the skill of the most experienced nation in
the world in the art Of dress at her disposal.
OF course the change Is for the benefit of the
world at large, but it makes the task of the
French manufacturer and cateref-especially to
American tastes-more onerous. American
buyers are at once the desire and the despair
of the French dealer and manufacturer. They
spend literally when they find what they want,
merly, they do not accept everything as for
merry, they all want something original and
exclusive" yet it must be enough like existing
modes not to startle, while not a few furnish
their own ideas, and even exact designs and
| insist upon having them carried out. 1t must
be said, however, that an idea Is rarely fur
nished that it is not improved upon. If not SO
use, combine, adapt and apply better than any
other artificers In the world.
MILLINERY AND ITS RESOURCES
When 1t is said that hats are very high and
bonnets small, 1t Is only repeating what has
been said at home during the last two seasons,
and 1t does not give any idea Of the exceedingly
pronounced shapes of the steeple-crowned head
gear, or the devices in trimming by which the
effect Of height is increased. The hats are gen.
orally narrow as well as tall, Notwithstanding
that the velvet, plush or cloth is not put on the
foundation plain, but laid in folds, irregular,
and, after forming hollow center to one side
rather than at the back, where much Of the
trimming is now massed. But the folds are al
!, nf-Ixk
down. are ingeniously arranged to add to the
high aigrette styleO the Ornamentation. Wide
wB sne new sa
dered gold effects, are arranged in upright folds
and loops, with old spearheads. halberds and
old Venetian; the new ribbons, ornaments and
jewelry renaissance, revivals Of the designs of
the middle ages.
BoNNErs.
The bonnets are small, but they show much
more variety than any time since the small
bonnet came to the front, literally as we'll as
f1guratively. The cloth bonnets have had a
great success, and they are now embroidered in
prim having a narrow putting OF velvet and a,,
overlapping OF fine gold cord or braid, or lace,
under the embroidered edge. Feathers are
more used than flowers, not the "tips'' or groups
of ostrich feathers, which have been SO popular
with us, but yellow breasts of the orioie, with
aigrette attachment, straight herOns feathers
| with fancy markings, cocks, crests and tails
and heads and wings OF the wild duck, or
small timitated) deer heads with antlers. The
bOnncts, though they continue small, are quite
different from anything we have had recently.
The brims often lay close, are very small and
recede toward the center, while the crown has
acquired additional character by being made
| full, and winged by depressed but richly
decorated band through the center. Bands
| of fur, such as otter and astrachan, sometimes
outline this form, upon plum or wine-cOlOred
velvet the soft brim, edgiDg the Golf, and show
| ing a fine gold or silver finish. Though flowers
are little used, there are reproductions in natu-
| raj cOlOrs Of magnificent begOnia leaves or
leaves Of the foliage plants, which are very
| striking upon dark velvet and in conjunction
| with fine gold work. The pointed bfims are
less, because they are SO becoming to some
| faces, but the Golf forms are newer and possess
more refinement
| The scarf used upon hats as trimming reap
pear but are considered
| MORE "ENGLISH" THAN FRENCH"
Some are enormously wide and long and
quite enough for the trimming Of the dress, as
well as the hat or bonnet, indeed some modistes
| are utilizing them in this way for "tailor''
| MADE gowns, deity arranging the stripes in
| vertical lines, and carefully harmonizing the
! colors with the plain material. This use of
them Is suggested by the dark, rich coloring and
the surface finish which IL that of different Finds
of dress material, or fabric stripes OF differ
ent kinds OF ribbon, uncut velvet, silk bourette
powdered moss and tapestry patterns These eE
fects which are all seen In rich stuff roappear in
| ribbons, and the wide scarf groups them "a if
| they were composed Of these rich Ribbons
woven together In wide stripes. Chaplet or
| rosary" beads assist largely In the decoration
| OF bonnets, especially Of those which are made
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