Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1885-10-29
OUR NEW YORK LETTER
ROs1LLND MIY'S TALK 4BOUr'
THE FASHIONS.
WooIen Hats-Bonnets Of Wool
aHigIi sriD,atiesi gsonnets.

! Special Corr espondeacc OF Gazette and journal
| NEw YohE, Oct. 20--ln millinery,
there is ninrked prominence oi wool.
| Dealers Seem to vie with one another, in
breaking through all former etiquette
ana the woarer of wool hat or bonnet,
has now Il look of satisfaction unattlin-
able by one who displays the more COM
monplace attractions of richer goods. +
The whole thing is constantly of wool, ,but
again are to be observed those mixiurcs
of diverse material now 30 dear TO tho
| fashionable heart. Jersey webbing is
much liked, and lies plainly over the
| frame as foundation for brocaded OF
| plain woods or something richer. Bro
caded wool can be putfed or lie plain and
can be added to by plain wool or velvet,
or plnin puffed wool can serve ns pre-
| lude to brocade, etc. By that ct cetera,
| please understand very much which
L cannot express. Hash things, as
much as You will you scarce
can slash them so recklessly but What
| fashion has been beforehand, hiis dnue
the same and beollons you TO follow, Pie
on the front trimming higher aud yet
higher, you scarce can get high rnongh
and, should matters 90 on ns they l'rolil+c
to do, the rivalry between Mars Anderson
at the Star aud Mnryaret Nathar VI tiin
Union Square Theatre, may bring about
complications. Everybody wants To sfp
that everybody masy give an opinion ~ 10
which is the prettier and more tssientei.
but how can anybody see when every
body's bonnet trimming is la The
way? / say trimming" not s'bonnet''
The bonnet itself ia modesty
itself, but modesty qnife
lost by the piled ON and fierce brisiling
front garniture, where sstickery" things
stick out and up, and even claws of birds
come in as seasonable additions. Hats
are certainly not immodest, yet rs cers
tainly can they not be termed modest.
For theatres, they are deplorably high,
yet reach not always up to those ire
pressible front fxings. We are threatened
likewise with new bonnet more formid-
able than those seen for many a long day.
A poke with high crown, wide, high,
fiaring brim and close fitting betwcen,
with material put ON plainly and ribbon
trimming in the depressed centre. 1t is
a season of
STRIPES.
Striped are the wool The silks are
striped. Stripes invade the dignity of
yelyets, and satins simmer through bars
running lengthwise. Patterns Of diverse
nature, and such as are wont TO be scat
tered over the surface, now follow stiif
lines and travel compactly up and down,
leaving plain intervals. Thus on rich
goods, where the headings of the day find
chiefly room for display, we see traceries
of palm leaves and similar patterns, set
closely and forming columns. So with
the boucle loops, which play very i'm
portant part in fall dress goods, and
so with bourette dottings. Stripes
are also produced by the bringing together
of different materials. Woods are varied
by lines of plush, velvet or moire and
here we recognize what is a notable feature,
constant putting together Of silk and
| wool. Effect of color in these striped
goods, seems more or less pronounced in
ratio to the width. Thus where an
extreme limit of three inches is reached,
contrasts are carefully avoided. Uni
| formity of color is the rule or ut best,
| some slight transition, as for example,
from deep brown to a shade slightly
less dark. But where narrow stripes
prevail, so likewise may prevail
a reckless abandon of hue. Red,
| blue, orange, green and any other shade
can alternate in any way and, glowing
side by side, give that redundance of
coloring which does not offend when in
| right disposition. They are pretty for
children, combining prettily with some
thing sober for their elders. Kindred in
effect, come mosaic wools, an offshoot from
the crazy quilt idea and showing the hap
hazard mingling of shape and color char
acteristic of this modern insanity, while
equally bright but in opposite style, come
woods whereon are stamped large roses
and their leaves in natural gayety of tone
TO KNOW THAT COMBINATIONS
come in with new prestige, one need only
look for a moment at the costume depart
nient of such house as Lord q Taylor,
showing a legitimate result Of the bring
ing forward of rough or pronouncedly
striped goods, manifestly unsuitable TO
whole dresses. Yet there is an elegance
in the plain outfit, a peculiar style as we'll,
and the two schools will have votaries in
equal number. Great is the chance
for good, great the opportunity for evil
In choosing, look If not into your own
heart, at least into your looking glass and
try to see yourself as others sec you. Do
not add by rough material where you
should subtract, nor subtract where
you could easily add an appearance
of plumpness, the next best
thing TO reality. Velyeteen is in
great demand, and each season
now, we grow more convinced how much
s'modern Improvement has done for US
in this line of dress fabrics. Especially
sought for is the Arcadia velveteen which,
with rich, soft surface and brought out
in all stylish colors, whether for day or
evening, is q rival and constant substitute
for velvet. Worn by our best people, IL
has grown standard, and year after year
retains its high position. A fine grade of
velveteen is far better purchase than
! cheap velvet, is handsomer, more durable
! and thoroughly genteel.
THINGS ARE MIXED.
There is much novelty in what has been
written of, but perhaps yet greater novelty
arises from putting together of diverse
material. Too much stress cannot bc
, laid upon this idea. Il is leading
thought and as such, brings about peculiar
prestige. As a foreshadowing, let me cite
lady seen to-day on Broadway, who,
| with a handsome silk costume, wore q
mantelet of striped wool trimmed with
frinze of wooden beads to match. In
l some of the expensive imported dresses
! again are to observed cotton
etamine and cotton lace in com
+ bination with rich silk and velvet.
) This is about the most fragrant outrage
possible, and too much so possibly TO be-
come common. Wool is now surely
brought up to position never before &C.
corded and is almost defnntly, we might
, say, faunted in our faces. The time may
7 come when woolen cloak will be more
: stylish than one of silk. Certainly this
/ setting up of wool will burt the silk
, cloak, while outdoor garments whore the
/: two will appear ride by side, may be
looked forward to as probable. Some
! woods are woven in lace-like simulations,
not open of course but with lace
work Irregularities, the union Of
/ two colors being at times deftiy
accomplished by an appearance Of lace
i over some dark or bright foundation.
, Bolder yet, come threads Of twine laid in
I crossbar. striped and feney-shaped pat
terms and held in position by cross
i stitches. Ribbons show the fancy for
, mixing materials, and many present alter
nations of cotton, velvet, silk or plush,
some displaying the thinnest and thickest
possible in juxtaposition, as where gauze4
ribbon is variegated by rows of plush.
RosALIED MAY.