National Republican., 1885-10-31

JAIArA, MEXICO, Oct 12, iSs5.--Among
tie many delightful excursions that may be
made fiCm Julapo, one of the most charm
ing-becauso not wholly devoid Of danger
is horseback ride to reroto, which famous
village lies score Of miles away, at the
foot Of the snow-cappcd "Cofro." To speak
with strict tiutbfulrcss, Betsy and / take
most Ct our horseback rides on burros-the
slow Lut sure footed Mexican donkeys. One
soon becomes aifcctlonately attached to the
patient little creature that has carried one
safely over dangerous trails and slippery
steers, aud feels n sense OF security upon
Lis back, with feet almost touching
the ground, which Is scarcely possible on a
tall bigh-stcpping horse. From the owl
like look Of philOsophic meditation which
each burro wears upon his cOuntenance un-
der all circumstances, we have dubbed him
the Mexican "Bird of Wisdom;n and GER
taiDly he would more appropriately appear
upon the national Cscutcheon than that
sDakeeatiug eagle, of whose species there
are none to he found in Mexico. Here the
donkey predominates, as to numbers, over
the equine race, hundred to one; and
without him Mexico would be as unlike
herself as the play of "Ilamlet' with Hamlet
left out. In the capital and other cosmo-
politan cities, some of the finest horses In
the world are seen; but even In these places
"blooded' burros are of equal value. and
preferred for many purposes.
The archbishop (who is still supreme au-
tocrut, despite the political dccadence of
Romish power) takes his daily airngs be-
hind four clipped mules, and at the appear
ancc OF their well-known mouse-hued backs
and scrub-brush names the populace fall
upon their knees, without waiting to OBJ
serve whether the carriage is occupied by
anybody but the coachman. The naughty
bishops OF Guadalajava, Michoacan, Iaca-
tecGs, ard Linares-all very "swell' digni-
taries of great wealth--ride behind spans of
fancy burios; and 1t is seldom indeed that
one secs any OF the Catholic clergy in this
country either on or behind horse. Prob
ably this priestly Partially for donkeys
originated In the belief that Christ made all
His journeys upon them-from the flight
into Egypt In His mothers arms to His trl-
umphant entry into Jerusalem,
IiIE PRESIDENTS MULE TEAM.
Be that as II may, the president of Mexico
is Tie proud possessor Of the finest pair Of
mules on the continent, and the most beau
tiful sonora ut the capital (the wife OF n
prominent Officially daily displays her dainty
dresses and sparkling jewels on the fashion
able paseo, In an open landeau drawn by
mlll-white burros, with red roses fastened
at tho base Of their expressive ears, and gold
mounted harness glttering in the sun.
The country Durros, unlike their pam
pered city cousins, lead toilsome lives that
are q continuous round Of blows, kicks, and
hard usuge. The poorest Indian can afford
a donkey, which will work faithfully, till
death claims him, on such meager fare rs
cactus leaves, old shoes, tin cans, &c. The
raw and bleeding back of the average burro,
the mountainous loads that are habitually
tNi1a1 n M
are visible, and the constant abuse, which
is his only reward for patient servitude,
lead one to fervently pray that II the theory
Of transmgration of souls be true the gods
may preserve us from future life In that
foim.
"Valgame, Diasw protect me, God y
t'Whut women are the Americans ~ re-
marked our gallant host, Don Jesus Juan,
Of the Hotel Neracm2ana, when we set out
on the long Journey from Jalapa to Perote;
and we left him wrestling with the problem
why we had not preferred our ease at his
inn to such laborious pilgrimage which
had only sightseeing for an incentive. The
youthful nephew of Mime. Juan and two
stalwaIt, well-armed mozos (servants) acted
as cicerones; and thus escorted, with sun
dry letters Of recommendation from bishop
and president In our pockets, as an open
sesame to all doors along the route, we felt
as secure as even in our own parlors.
Leaving the flowery land Of fruits and
palms, VIC rapidly assembled the mountfn
spurs among volcanic debris to wild plains
darkened by melancholy race OF pines
and aloes. Soon the templada region Of
oaks aud liquid amber was left behind, and
we entered the terra fria (cold zone), to
which climatic belt most of the central
tablc-lands belong. Anon we found our
selves among the clouds, cold, drizzlng
rain filling the air and drenching us to the
skin. 'Ave Maria Purissima que venga
el soln (lIoly Virgin send us the sum, fer
Vently muttered our mozos, petition
which we earnestly echoed. Emerging at
length into the old Spanish highway, well
paved with basalt, we entered upon most
magnificent scenery. Through the vapors,
spread out like some vast sea below us, the
tops Of distant mountains peer like Islands;
aud the stupendous cascade at our right,
after Il tumble of several hundred feet
straight down the mountain side, rushed
ahead, as II leading the way, and plunged
into the vapory ocean.
IN THE LAND or THE SKY.
At last Las Vegas was reached-the vii
lage described by Humboldt as occupying
the highest point between the gulf and the
City of Mexico. All the houses In this ele-
yatcd eighborhood-unlike the cane and
adobe huts of the tropical valleys-are OF
pine logs, each tree furnishing but one piece
of timber, several inches thick. These,
roughly hewn aud closely fitted, remind one
of primitive days in New w,England, or new
towns In our own northwest; while the
shingle roofs and puncheon iloors-unllie
any Others In Mexico carry out the illu-
sion. To add to thoughts Of home, jays
and chicksdees-birds of the temperate
2orc-iluttered around us, and for the first
time in the cactus countrywe saw the honest
face of yellow dandelion. AS the houses
N nf
sky,n SO the people plainly show the change
OF climate, being Il more hardy and ener-
getic race than the deni2ens of those sandy
plains that skirt the sea.
1t being now nearly noOn-the usual
breakfast hour in Mexico we decided to
avail ourselves of the hospitality bespoier
In our billetes dc recommendation, and t o
invite ourselves-a Ia genus tramp-to par
take of some kind souls bounty. The
alcalde having been particularly mentioned,
his house was speedily found and, after
considerable flourish Of credentials on olI
part and manifest suspicious on his
that we might be banditti In dis
guise, that worthy officer invited us 10
dismount, swung wide the door OF his casa
and badc us enter. II was now our turn
for suspicion, as it is well known that most
OF the rancheros, and even many of the
petty officials In these remote districts, are
In league with the gentlemen OF the road
Not fortnight UefOre the diligencia had
been stopped by robbers, about twenty
miles further down the valley, and the pas
sengers ordered to alight, and boca-boXa-
throw themselves on their noses. No MeXi
can ever ventures upon these roads without
being armed to the teeth, yet they neve
dream Of resisting the robbers, but meekll
throw themselves on their noses whel
ordered to.
In country where justice ia seldom ob
tanned, but where injustice can any day bt
bought, and where law exists but In name
II is not to be wondered ut that such out
RACES are submitted to by a demoralizel
people, who prefer any other means of get
ting living than by honest work. II