Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-05-02

stalls. and the costumes OF the LADIES' IN
attendance were more or less Dutch,
Russian. Spanish, or floral, as required.
A description of these would occupy
columns, but rose dress in pink tulle
(short) over pink silk, covered with rose
petals and bOrdered with leaves was love-
~. The low bodice was arranged with
Grecian folds and trimmed in the same
way. The hair was crowned with n close
wreath of small roses, without leaves.
The Dutch dresses consisted of the usual
short stuff-skirts and velvet bodice over
high chemisette of white lawn, with full
sleeves and silver ornaments.
But though the fancy dresses were Won
derlully picturesque and added much 10
the variety and beauty OF the scene, which
was in many respects reproduction of the
great English baZars given annually for
sweet charity's sake, the interest for my
readers will chiefly centre in the stylish
spring costumes of the fair spectators.
The newest Of these were combinations
of satin trimmed with yak lace of extra
ordinary fineness. An effective dress was
of ficelle-cOlored cashmere with lower
front of ruby satin covered with wooden
lace as fine as cObweb. The bodice was
of glove kid, ficelle colOred, stitched with
lines of ruby silk, and the bonnet of ruby
satin and lace like that upon the dress,
with pale gold thistles for ornament.
n
MORE striped in wave-like lines and
trimmed with the new lead-beaded EN-
broidery upon net and beautiful lace. The
lead beads, so called from their gray color,
not from their weight, which is almost
nil, are likely to supersede steel-indeed,
have done so to a great extent. A great
advantage is that they do not tarnlsh, and
are not shiny like steel, but possess
closer affinity with black, and can be used
!, tfcfTf 1,ff. A fg
ite shoulder cape with fchu ends, worn
by lady famous for having made mag
nificent donation to u Catholic educa-
tiOnal institution, was beaded with lead,
steel and Jet in leaves which outlined a
Turkish Jacket and gave q wonderfully
graceful effect to the distinguished look
ing little garment.
The waved stripes are novelty peculiar
to the season, but are as yet only seen in
imported costumes. They are admired
when seen to advantage in plain demi-
trained skirts, or in combination with
beaded satin fronts or paneled dresses.
But the stripes ought to retain their I'M
dulating charm and not lose it in pleat-
ings or drapery.
A Characteristic dress this season is of
self-colOTed wool or satin, with embrOi-
dered vest front, standing collar and
cuffs. Several of these were worn and
ing shade of wood brown, with embrOl-
derry in various shades of green and gold,
with brown silk outlining.
A very handsome dress was OF smoke
colOred silk and velvet, with short vel
vet mantle; and a still more effective
grey dress was of satin, with fTiSe velvet
front and mantle bOrdered with chenille
tongue fringe.
A pretty fashion with the open ichus
4
and continue it nearly to the waist, fac
ing the inner side with tinted satin and
filing in with the dotted rutiles of lace or
crepe ljSSe which form part of the chemi-
settle. The delicate suggestion of the
color of the dress on the lace is very
pretty.
LOVELY MATERIALS.
Lovely materials there are in plenty,
and some that are not at all expensive.
Chief among these are the fine soft
WOOlens that make up into such dainty
dresses, are cool as muslin, almost, yet
stand wear and exposure without utter
collapse. In black over a silk skirt they
are useful for church wear in the cOun-
try and take the place of more expensive
grenadine. In light cOlors they are suits-
BILE for indoors and for girls, both day and
evening, and with a sash or a little satin
ribbon can be made dressy enough for
evening wear. The flmy wooden laces,
so delicate yet strong, are too expensive
for ordinary wear, but they suggest
charming possibilities in connection with
these pretty materials and give us some
thing that is refined without glitter.
The clio h dresses for spring wear are in
strictly "tailOr'' styles, right at the
throat, with standing collars, high mar
row sleeves, and straight pleated and
panelsd skirts. When drapery is en-
plOyed it forms pointed apron, the folds
also pointed downward and draped very
high at the sides, which are Killed or
show braided panels TO match the vest,
cuffs and collar. The drapery at the back
is often short and very bOutfant over the
straight box pleating of the skirt, but it
may be as long as the apron if preferred.
With genuine tailOr-made dresses several
vests are usually ordered-a white, buH
(kid or silk }, and one the color of cloth.
An embroidered vest is usually accom-
panied by straight embroidered cuffs and
collar, and perhaps by left side panel,
the opposite side being loOped up over
knife pleating or a contrasting color.
/ have mentioned in previous letter
the cOppery gold japanese cords and mar
row braids which are set on edge to pro-
duce the Arabesque patterns which cover
the surface of parts of cloth costumes.
particularly the light vicuna cloths and
cream Isle-ofWight serges. These re-
main the most distinguished OF the models
offered, though many young ladies prefer
the pale gold embroidery upon cream.
Summer flannel suits have become an
institution, and their popularity is largely
owing to the excellent qualities of the
Orient (twilled) flannel-a purely AmeTi-
can manufacture with all the virtues of
its famous Welsh prototype, and a dress
finish not glossy which recommends it to
those who do not want 10 repeat the exact
appearance Of useful underwear In a
dress material. Few ladies' or Young
girls now but include two or more flannel
dresses in their summer outfits, for they
are exactly adapted to the chilly changes
and damp days which are apt TO enter
into our cheated terms" A fayOrite way
of making the cream white and gray
blue or navy blue flannel suits is TO cut
the point OF the skirt into three
points, or a square over plating,
and trim with three rows OF nat braid.
The back Of the skirt hangs straight,and
is box-pleated. The bodice is pleated and
finished with straight lines OF braid, the
front buttOned straight down or made
dOuble-breasted. For young girls the
skirt is sometimes tucked up the back and
finished with draped apron over Killed
front.
In previous letter pointed out the
difficulty attending the fastening OF linen
cuffs in the narrow Wriats of tailOr-maQe