The Democratic press. [volume] (Ravenna, O. [Ohio]) 1868-1901, 1885-10-15
THE FALL FASHIONS.
THE SEASONS BEST EFFORTS IN SILKS
vELvETS AND WOOLS.
THE WEAVES AND GOLORS.
Some Elegant Costumes and How They are
Made-S Seal and Silk Wraps-New Lsces
and dGarnitureH-Trimmi Etc,
as Shown by Hover & Higbee,
Cleveland, o.
TFrom the Cleveland Sunday sun.J


from the Cleveland Sunday SUM-
The efforts of European manufacturers
to produce something new'' in silks, vel
vets and woods, for the fall season, have
been crowned with success, for certainly no
more beautiful things in harmony of colors
and popularity of weaveS have ever been
seen i'm the markets of the world.
From Hover & Higbee's exhibit of
novelties are taken for description mum
Der of combinations, which illustrate the
beauty and elegance of their seasons i'm
portations, embracing the best productions
of twenty-five of the leading manufacturers
of Europe. These novelties are exclusive
with Hover & Higbee, obtained direct and
through personal correspondence with the
makers. c1 -4N
From the silk department are selected a
few combinations for description.
A princess costume is chocolate brown
faille Franchise with buffant back and a
front of full friZe velvet on velvet ground
The wrap to match is made of plain velvet,
the flowing sleeve of frize, and is garnitured
with chenille loops and copper pendants.
A calling costume of rich olive, with a
cutaway front waist and princess back,
beautifully illustrates the effectiveness of
the new bayadere striped fronts for skirts
The front of this costume is faille Franchise
with plush stripes an inch and half wide
and broad band at the bottom running
into fringe.
A rich Bordeau satin Rhadames costume
is shown with combination of velvet
stripes, delicately interlined with gold. 1t
is made up with band sides and band
trimming on front, waist and sleeves.
Another handsome costume is rich
brown ottoman made up with a petticOat
front. This front is of brOcaded velvet in
the new escurial lace effect which has been
one of the pleasing productions of the
season.
A Gros d'Ecosse in new shade of tan
combines with an Illuminated brOcaded
velvet in scroll designs, and is made with
q draped front fastened at the sides with
edge of fringe to match. A wrap of the
brocade completes an elegant costume.
A superb black costume Is shown in the
new weave called "MascOtte." The cOmbi-
nation is a lace and velvet stripe, illumin-
ated in cardinal on maScOtte ground. The
effect is of lace striped velvet, and is one
of the novelties of the season.
A bridal costume is shown in q rich
cream white ottoman with O combination
of full friZe velvet on an ottoman ground
to match. Wide FOrmosa lace is used for
ruffies on the sides, and completes a very
elegant and tasty toilette.
For evening wear one of the most charm
Duchesse, with a combination of an ele-
gantly brOcaded velvet and frize in leaf
patterns on q satin DuchesSe ground. The
eolOrs of the brocade are delicate tints in
pinks, browns and olives. The Overskirt
Is edged with fine oriental lace.
One of the richest costumes of the season
Is black faille Franchise of soft, mellow
texture. The front is of full friZe velvet
In large scroll designs, Illuminated in gold.
The beauty of the costume Is enhanced by
the garnituring Of deep Chantilly lace
flOuncingS on one side and deep killing of
faille Franchise on the other. The killing
runs to anarrow plating, which latter runs
entirely around the bottom of the skirt.
Scotch plaid and Illuminated striped vel
vets and brOcaded velVets are very pOpu-
lar for garnituring silk or wool goods and
in combination add to the effectiveness of
q costume.
A novelty in a cream white silk is an
armure, brOcaded in an eScurial lace effect
1t is entirely new and very pretty for even
ing dresses,
There is great demand this fall for
materials for short wraps. Brocaded vel
and colors in leaf and scroll designs, and
brOcaded velvcts in scroll designs delicately
traced with beads, are among the choicest
effects of the season, For mourning wraps
Hover & Higbee show full friZe velvet
brOcades on ottoman and armure grounds
and velvet novelties in Bayadere stripes
for dress fronts, band dresses and garnitur-
ing. The cashmere stripe adds new beauty
In serving TO give the velvets an illumi-
mated effect which is very pleasing.
There is growing demand for black
silks, and with this comes a number of new
weaves that have become popular. They
are called ''Mascotte," "fricotine. % and
"Armure" The mellow finished faille
Franchise has stood the test so well and
thoroughly, as to be favorite at all times.
The standard Bonnet, and ''Guinnet''
black silks always hold their place in the
lead.
In colored silks the popular weaves are
faille Franchise, satin Rhadames, Ouch
esse and grOs de France.
In wool fabrics the season has produced
some most charming novelties. In solid
colOrs for full suits the new weaves as
shown by Hover 4 Higbee embrace the
best ideas OF the leading manufacturers of
Europe in corduroy diagOnals and welts,
with knOtted surface, and tufted woods with
long shining hairs that look as though they
lay upon the material. Feather or fur
trimmings add rich effect. They are also
made up plain or with braided trimming
The same weaves are shown in blacks.
For combining with the novelties rough
Gamers halr and bison cloths are in the
lead.
Novelty goods are more striking and ele-
giant in combinations than ever before, the
odd peculiar weaves attracting universal
admiration. A few effects are selected for
description.
CheviOt serges with borders of Astrachan
bOucle, combined with solid boucle pro-
duces an effective street dress.
Tufted WoolS are extremely popular and
combine in graceful effect with plain
serges.
A very nice thing is made of blue and
brown homespun with raised lines and
crossbarS of knotted wOOls 1t makes up
well singly and combines particularly
fine with Bison serges.
An extreme idea is brown serge with
raised plush and friZe squares, blending
with an Ombre effect.
shown in smooth cord diagonal, with
raised stripes of wiry mOhair loops in three
shades harmOnizing with the ground. 1t
is used in combinations for the skirt, with
an overdreSS of plain goods. This partic-
ular style of skirt is called the ''Florella."
A striking costume is very fine camels'
hair in combination with novelty of the
same material with little rings of asfrachan
disposed in lines and cross bars over it.
account of their exclusiveneSs, not being
duplicated in piece goods. A stunning
thing is fine woven canvas cloth in a new
green with a heavy boucle garniture of
light shade. They make up either in plain
or box plated skirts, with high draped
overdress, the garniture being used on both
skirt and Overdress.
One of the most comfortable and elegant
appearing costumes is a grayish-brOwn
camel's hair bison. The combination is
bourette and brown invisible check, and
the complete suit is very choice.
A dark blue cheviOt made up with bour-
cite stripes in high cOlOrs Is one of the