Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-02-28
MARTINsBURG, W. VA, SATURDAY, FEB 28 1885.
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald By "Leons.
NEW GOODS FOR SPRING DRESSES.

Hs-ittess for The Herald By "Leons.'
NEW GOODS FOR SPRING DRESSES.
Among the new wooden fabrics tn,
wool yelvets are imported again. with
the frise figures of wool in differen
colors from the ground of camels hail
serge which forms the principal part o.
the dress. Gilt or silver figured wooleni
are shown for early spring. In thess
there are few blocks or bars, or rings
of different sizes. done in dark twilled
woolens, and these figured parts form
the vest and trim the lower part of the
front of the skirt.
| Bison serge is made of the wool oil
Bison cloth, yet in the wide twills Of
serge and of light weight, for spring and
summer wool dresses.
! Cashmere of the finest twills. will be
used for both house and street dresses
They come in all the new light shades OF
olive, ashes-of-rose, reseda and brown
and are taking the place of nun 5 yelling
as they have more $ body " to them and
| make up with more satisfactory results,
and instead of the nun s yelling for mid.
summer wear, there is a new wool fab
rio of much the same texture, called
wool Grape, with slight crape-like wrink.
les all over it !; it comes in black, in
medium colors, and in the lighter shades
for evening dresses.
A very pretty model for spring has all
the lower front part of the skirt covered
with two very deep flounces cut out on
the lower edges in lounge points OF
waves above this fall two irregular
draperies of cashmere, the drapery on
the left side curving much deeper than
that on the right, and each is carried UP
to the waist on the sides to meet a long
breadth of cashmere that covers the en-.
tire back of the skirt. The back drapery
may hang in very full pleats quite
straight from belt to foot, but for those
who need or prefer full tournure, it is
caught up in single bunch of pleats on
each side and in the middle quite near
the top, and then falls plainly. Shirring
is used on the front of the basque, and
may be done in the cashmere, or two
small scarfs of silk set on down the
front. otherwise the basque is very plain
ly fashioned and may have a slight pos
tilion pleating, or else be very smooth
over the tournure, but to be in "good
style it must be quite short ON the sides
and behind.
For young girls there are laced girdle
fronts of MORE or velvet from six to
eight inches deep set in the front darts
and laced with gilt cord or a silk lacing
string over soft shiIred corsage of the
wool Or of silk. Another pretty fancy is
to have Sits cut in the edges of the bas-
que over the hips, and these Sits are then
laced together with cord and tassel of
gilt, silver, or silk. Sometimes folds of
velvet in which gilt or silver braid is
tied along the edges, trim the front of
the waist and skirt. The single revers
all on one side of the basque front is
newer than that placed on each side, and
will be used when the opposite side of
the basque is braided or embroidered.
For slight figures it is q good plan to
make narrow fiat vest of silk or velvet
with a standing collar to match, and out
side of the vest add a shirred scarf nf
the wool OF the dress waist. Sometimes
this fullness is made of the front part of
the waist itself pushed back on the lin
ing.
Side draperies falling in waved jabot
velvet or silk that will come into sight in
each layer of the folds.
Percales are already shown, in white
anu SAOuAoo, WAth l0Qy DluC,
black, and different colored figures,
squares, balls, and other devices.
In satines the variety of styles are in
Vulnerable. The solid ground of dark
colors with white figures upon them,
makes up very pretty for the street, while
the larger figured and pompadour styles,
make nice house dresses.
The all-over embroidery, machine
made, is used for fronts of dresses, col
lars, cuffs, vests and yokes, either upon
wash goods or foulard silks.
The fashionable colors of the spring
season will be the smoke-blues and greys,
the stone shades, rock-greys and mush-
room browns.
NOTES In BRIEF.
Tea gowns and morning dresses are
both made with blouse fronts and trains.
A large number of travelling dresses
are made of mohair.
The strong leather belt is considered
almost indispensable to travelling cos
tune.
Metal buckles and clasps continue in
vogue and are especially used for fasten-
ing and ornamenting the clothes of chill
dren.
For full dress toilettes the hair should
be dressed high and ornamented with
jewels or pins.
The Elton jacket is fanciful little
garment that will be becoming to slight
figures. 1t is not unlike the Zouave
jacket, but instead of being curved open
in front, it slopes away gradually from
the throat to the waist line, and is
slightly pointed behind. 1t is edged
with beads or closely strung gilt but.
tons a soft sash is passed around the
waist with this jacket. Sashes will be
worn with spring and summer costumes.
A fichu in black net is called the Gal
atea, and has high collar covered with
beads and edged with lace. The fichu
is edged with bead embroidery but the
centre is filed in with folds of fine
black net starred here and there with
jet; the folds are caught together at the
waist with loops of narrow satin ribbon,