News and citizen. [volume] (Morrisville, Vt. ;) 1881-current, 1885-06-18
FARM AND GARDEN.
NOTES OF INTEREST FROM OUR
EXCHANGES.
Kitchen and Market Garden-Improvinz a
Poor Farm-POtatoes.

BEANs.-If the Limas have not made
good stand, plant more seed at once
three plants to the pole are enough
two will answer. Forward early cab
bages and caulifowers by frequent
hoeing. Seeds for late crop may still
be sown early this month. Try some
savoys.
CUoUMBERs. Sow the pickle crop by
the middle of the month. Sow in we'll
matured drills, six feet apart, dropping
dozen or more seeds to the foot; final
stand of plant every foot or two will
be enough. Celery plants in the seed
bed may be shorn, to make them stocky.
In the latitude of New York, next month
is early enough to set out the main crop.
Egg plants should not go out until
settled warm weather; give rich soil.
KITCHEN AND MARKET GARDEN.
Weeds, more than anything else, will
demand attention. A weed that the
rake will kill when young, if allowed to
grow few weeks, makes hard work with
the hoe: Clearly and often" is the motto
in wedding. Try the rake on very young
weeds. Proper wedding helps the crops
by keeping the soil loose. Succession
crops should be sown to keep up con-
tinuous supply of beans, peas, sweet
corn, beets, cucumbers, lettuce, etc.
spinach sown now will run to seed; try
beets instead; also New Zealand spinach,
which needs warm weather. Stop cut
ting the asparagus when peas are plenty.
Apply some quick-acting fertilizer, like
nitrate of soda, and allow the shoots to
grow.
POTATOES. farmers think they
must plant potatoes early to get ahead
of the beetles. The seed often lies in
the ground for weeks, on account of
cold, and when the tops do appear the
beetles are ready for them. The weeds
also get ahead and great deal of work
is required to keep the potatoes clear of
them and to kill the beetles. Last year
tried an experiment of planting about
the middle of June and was surprised to
find them up in less than a week, and
that the beetle did not trouble them.
They required only one hoeing and
yielded as well as those planted earlier.
There was a great saving of labor in
their care. A farmer tells me he always
has most excellent success by planting
in June, which he often does. An early
blowing of the land would be good to
start the weeds.-SGrdtogG.
Onions. Market when half grown;
keep clear of weeds. Root crops, such
as beets, carrots, satisfy, and parsnips,
are rarely thinned enough; thinning
freely is the chief step toward we'll
grown, tender roots. Cultivate between
the rows until the foliage prevents.
Keep the fower-stalk cut from the
rhubarb bed. Peppers are to be treated
like egg-plants. Squashes of the Hub
bard and other winter kinds need a
warm soil. They may be planted in
we'll matured hills eight feet each way,
leaving four plants in each, or in drills
ten feet apart; drop eight or dozen
seeds each four feet, and secure two
plants. Use plaster for the early bugs,
and Paris green for the later enemies.
Only in market gardens should tomatoes
be without support. Whatever will
keep the fruit from the ground, whether
it be merely brush, or regular trellis,
will so improve the quality, that it is
worth providing. - american Agri-
culturiSt.
IMPROVING A Poor GARDEN. MIR. A.
G. Sharp, of the Richmond, Mass,
Grange gave in a lecture some items of
experience in renovating worn land,
which he says involves, to begin with,
ga man chock full of days works" F.:
"Like the old woman who put the poorest
pork in the bottom of the barrel so as
to have the best to eat first all the way
down, took my best land first and have
MANFRED heavily as far as I have gone.
do not believe in blowing up more
land than l can manure heavily every
time. What would be light coat for
some lands would be heavy for others;
we must know our soil and how much it
needs. There is little danger of putting
on too much. began in the middle of
my farm and have cleared on an average
two acres of rocks each year. I have
put up some new fence each year, if
only very little. make all the manure
/ can each year, using some absorbents
muck, ten to twelve tons swamp hay,
dry sifted coal ashes and some forest
leaves, and then buy all the fertilizer 1
dare to besides, or all think can use
to advantage on crops. We should
grow more soiling crops, such as sowed
corn, Hungarian and millet. For late
fall feeding SOW barley; even after
August l this can be done and make q
good green feed for COWS after the frost
has bitten the cornstaIks. The more we
can feed out on the farm the faster we
can improve it. It is not safe to sell
hay unless you draw home some bran
or fertilizer the same day that you sell
the hay on the return trip, for once the
money slips away for something else
you are not apt to buy the fertilizer.
There is no better fertilizer than barn
yard manure, but when hay is worth
S12 a ton in the barn sell it and put
every cent of the money you get for it
into barnyard manure if you can get
that which has been under cover for SIS
per cord delivered. 1 pillow in all the
barnyard manure can get every spring,
and never let any manure heat in the
barnyards. I believe if manure is
plowed in green the land must get all
there is in it, and it is then out of the
way in hoeing and cultivating. Some
may make the mistake of blowing too
deep at first. This should not be done,
but simply pillow an inch deeper every
time SO as not to turn up too much clay
or hardpan at one time. But do this
gradually, and you can add much to the
value of the land in that way, in few
times blowing"