The Kenosha telegraph. [volume] (Kenosha, Wis.) 1860-1888, 1885-05-01
SUMMER MusLiNs. ETc.
The Fabrics and Styles Which Seem to Be
Popular.


The Fabrics and Styles which Seem to Be
Popular.
Null, organdy and French nainsook
are the sheer plain muslins used for the
dresses to be worn by graduates, and
for midsummer at the watering places
To .hese may be added embroidered
Swiss muslin in sprigs and in dots, with
embroidered founces of various widths
finished with scalloped edges. The
thick embroidery is preferred this sea-
son, but the open patterns are still
used, especially for heavier musins. A
combination of plain and embroidered
muslin is seen in most of these dresses.
The embroidery forms the short basque,
and the plain lower part of the front
and sides of the skirt, while plain mus
lin is draped as a short wrinklei apron
with the edges turned under and sewed
to the foundation skirt The back
drapery may be long and bouffant of
plain muslin simply hemmed, or it may
be tucked across from belt to foot, and
hang plainly, or else there may be
three, four, or five embroidered fiounces
gathered across the back. The en-
broidered basque is not lined, but
has two darts and two side forms,
and is edged all round and up
the front with narrow gathered seal
Hoped embroidery. In other dresses the
front and sides of the skirt are covered
with three or FIVE embroidered fiounces,
while in still others wide insertion is
alternated with lengthwise box plaits
OF muslin. All these skirts are made
over false skirt of plain muslin that
has gored front and side breadths,
with straight back breadth tied back
by tapes underneath. One of the best
arrangements for the back drapery of
these wash dresses, because it is simple
and easily ironed, is to make a single
very deep puff at the top of the back,
and to the band where this puff is
drawn below add gathered breadth
or fiounce of embroidery, or else con-
tinue the plain muslin to the foot, trim
ming it up both sides and across the
bottom with embroidered edging, and
perhaps a row of insertion. This back
fullness has separate belt of its own,
which buttons in front after the belt to
which the false skirt is attached has
been buttoned behind. The back drap-
cry is tackled across the false skirts at
the end of the puff and down each side
below the puff
Embroidered Jokes initiating the
guimpe dresses worn by children will
be worn again by young ladies. The
all-Over embroidery may be used for
the yoke, or else it is formed of al
ternate bands of fine tucks and of in
sertion. The lower edge of the yoke
has row of edging set on it with the
scallops turned upward, and this is con-
tinued over the armholes like shoulder
straps. Standing collars with lace ruff
fes, and also Byron collars, are used
with these yokes. Two or three rows
of shirrIng are at the top and belt of the
full muslin of the waist. The sash may
be also of muslin three-eighths of
yard wide, trimmed with seal oped
edging and attached to the back of the
embroidered belt, where it is shirred in
stead of beng strapped between its two
loops, each half yard long, and its
two longer ends. This waist is prettily
worn with skirt entirely COW
cred by two deep founces trimmed
wth tucks, insertion, and edg-
ing, or else these founces cover
the front and sides, while the back has
waterfall plaits. or it may be crosswise
tucks. The most effective tucks are
from an inch and a quarter to two
inches in width, placed an inch apart
Embroidered belts are narrower than
formerly, measuring only an inch and
ha in breadth, and are stiffiy lined.
Muslin about forty inches vide is used
for the back breadths that have deep
puff at top and full flounce be'ow. A
fiat panel of embroidery, W; tn the seal
loped edge turned toward the front, is
down the sides of some skirts, separat-
ing the front flounces from the back
drapery. Colored musllns and organ
dies are made up in the simple designs
described here for white dresses. The
full round housemaid-skirt will be worn
quite plain with only a hem. or else it
will be tucked nearly all its length from
just below the belt to the hem
Egyptian lace and the Fedora laces
in flounces and as net coverings are to
be used over mulls for graduating
dresses. The basque of the lace is lined
throughout with the sheer null, except
just below the neck in front, where it is
cut out triangularly, and a soft puff of
the transparent net is sewed there to
drop as low as the top of the first darts
The net is then iraped as Greek
apron, and founces of the lace are
gathered at the foot and up the left side
to the belt, while the back falls IN plaits
from the belt to the foot. Nuns yelling
dresses, with rows of Egyptian lace be-
tween the box plaits of the skirt front,
and outlining vest on the corsage, are
also made for the dresses of graduating
classes. Still more elaborate dresses
are of white India silk and the en-
broidered China grapes. -Ha7per's b.
Ear.