Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1885-02-21
The Latest Fashions.

| Full skirts with straight breadths again
worn. This fashion is much simpler than
| narrow skirts, as it does not require any spe-
cial draping or trimming. Waists are the
most important part of these dresses and must
be cut to perfection. Any slight defect in
the make may be overlooked in an elaborate
| ly trimmed suit but with these plain dresses
this is not to be thought Of. Although these
skirts form the basis of many toilets, draped,
plated and puffed skirts also to be seen.
AS at most entertainments given at pres
ent, the rooms are lighted even in the day
time, toilets are made with.a view to produ-
cling pleasing effect when beheld by gaslight.
It is for this reason that so much STEEL gold,
and silver is worked into the trimmings and
materials. Gold, silver and steel tissues serve
for pointed waists for wear with velvet and
brocade skirts. very beautiful effect is OBJ
tanned by combining steel tissue with dark
blue velvet. The pointed waist is high in
the back of the neck, and opens in a square
in front. The steel tissue forms the waist,
and large revers over the blue velvet train.
On the border of the velvet skirt is a light
steel embroidery. In front of the apron IS a
bird worked in several colors, with pink and
light blue predominating, and various shades
of gray, the whole being intermixed with
steel. On the underskirt is q large ruching
worked with steel. Around the square of
the waist is the same lace ruching and gar
land of t!nG light pink roses. The elbow
| sleeves nave Gno same trimming. announcer
toilet in this style is of white brocade with
silver tissue The satin skirt is covered with
white gauze arranged in flat plaits fastened
down to the lower part of the dress, where it
opens and forms full trimming over ruch-
ing of silver lace. The white brocade train
is added to the back. The front of the waist
forms long point and has a silver plastron.
The low neck is surrounded by lace worked
with silver. Another novel combination is
toilet of gold and peacock blue velvet or
plush. Light shades are combined with very
dark ones for evening dresses For instance,
a blue and salmon toilet has skirt of salmon
velvet with the lower border falling against
a ruching in the same shade. The reGingote
skirt of dark blue brocade opens over the vel
vet skirt. Tho square court mantle train is
of plain dark blue velvet, surrounded by a
bias band formed of three fat plaits of sal
mon-colored velvet. The low-neeked blue
velvet waist has brocade plastron. The
plastron is arranged that it leaves the
waist in the shape of Spanish corsage.
Around the low neck are fesh-colored roses
to harmonic with the velvet. The sleeves
are formed by the roses around the neck,
with piece of sal1non-colored lace falling
below.
ments The cloak for wear over this toilet
is of brownish green satin covered with old
gold "mousseline canvas" 1t is trimmed
with marabout plumes in the color of the sat
in. Any hue of satin serve for this
cloak, and the canvas will have an equally
good effect. The marabout plumes may also
be replaced by fur trim rnings. Bands of fur
are used on Partisan evening toilets. A dark
fur is generally selected for this purpose, to
make contrast with the light materials on
which it is sewed Some dresses are trim
med with embroidered lawn. The designs
are usually large flowers. The lawn forms
aprons and guile trimmings with garlands of
this work on the lower part of the goods.
Some pink faille toilets are covered with
tissue like crepe de Chine, with floral en-
broidery in twist silk. This Grape is grace
fully draped over the faille skirt Around
the borders of the dress bands of pink
marabout, which are taken up the sides to
form quilles. The waist is very low in the
neck. Around the basque is n narrow band
of marabout The elbow sleeves are cut in
points in the bend of the arm. The points
are joined under small bows. Down the
front'of the waist are many satin loops cut
tho same length and placed very close to-
gether.
Among some very odd fancy dresses
brought out this winter for young Parisian
ladies IL chimney sweoper's costume
The short skirt il of coarse ivory white
wooden goods, with the lower border torn in
several Places and large patch in front Sow
ed on with brown thread. The small cherui-
settle of the same goods has u round, full
basque IN "Paysahne" style. The low neck
In surrounded by II narrow piece of edging
with brown velvet drawn through 1t. The
short sleeves are very full A soot=eolored
drnpery starts from the right shoulder, Ii tn
ken diagonaliy over the front of the waist
where It is fastened on the side; is then drHp
ed over the skirt from left to right and ex=
tends to the back, where it is also draped.
The silk stockings worn with this dress are
in the color of the plush, and the slippers are
of kid The cap placed on the back of the
head is of black silk Long undressed black
kid gloves reach up the arms to the short
sleeves.
A Venetian domino costume is Of black
and red satin. The skirt is of white plated
lace The black satin domino is made like
blouse, and falls all the way down in full
lengthwise plaits. 1t opens on the left side
and has red satin revers. A narrow satin
fold comes from the inside of the border of
the skirt. The very long black satin train is
lined with red satin. A red silk cord and
tassels is tied around the body below the
waist The large juive sleeve reaches to the
lower part of the skirt and is open from the
shoulder all the way down the outside. 1t Is
lined with red satin.
novel trimming for collars and cu1fs con-
sists of silver. gilt, steel, or Jet galloon, with
a fold of colored satin coming from beneath.
This is placed around the collars and cuffs.
Sometimes the satin fold is replaced by mar
row ostrich feather trimming. Some dark
hIue velvet and worsted suits have this trim
ming of galloon combining gold and steel
with folds of old gold or pink satin These
galloons are great addition to simple toilets
The small pieces coming from under these
must neither be gathered nor plated they
always consist of fold placed flat to the in
side and showing very little on the outside,
forming only fine line, to relieve the dark
effect of dress. Plaitings and ruehings are
not as much worn as they have been; there
is tendency to replace them by fiat collars
and cuffs There are also to be seen hand
some fine batiste collars which turn over the
straight collars of the dresses. These are
much more becoming than the dark neck
trimmings SO much worn of late.
There are also some changes to be noted in
children's suits The Russian blouse is now
all the rage in Paris. Embroidered dresses,
with the skirt formed of single hounce, are
reserved for very young children. For older