Morning journal and courier., 1885-07-06
formed of small medallions. Covering the

formed of small medallions. Covering the fullness of the sleeves are jet epaulets.,
 Waists are made in many ways. They may open over vests or have lace 6chias or plastrous outings or revers. They may be belted around the waist, have small basques in the back only, or be pointed back and front. The favoIite trimmings and bows are galloon. The latter can be worked with jet or gold, or with beads of many colors. Balloons and embroidery of this kind are not only used on woolen or silk toilets, but also on lace dresses. This trimming is arranged in bretelles, belts, and bands around the sleeves, and in the broad collars brought into fashion by the Princess of Wales The skirts may have these bands placed fiat either crosswise, lengthwise, in large rings Some changes have been made in sleeves. A waist may have both a wide and a narrow sleeve. The narrow sleeve is of lace, and the wide sleeve is often cut in irregular naments.
 A walking suit may be stamped Sicilienne or plain yelling The false skirt is covered with two hounces of stamped etamine. Two breadths of Sicilienne or yelling are gathered full to the waist, and form two long paniers draped to the back. Another breadth of goods forms the puffing in the back. The pointed waist opens slightly in shawl shape, with piece of etamine founcing sewed flat down either side, and becoming very mar row over the point. The elbow sleeves are tight fttin md high on the shoulder. They are trimmed with two very narrow etamine ruffies. The small hat matching the suit is of ecru lace. It is baby shape, with high crown and a very narrow brim, and is much raised in the middle in front. The brim is covered with futed lace. In the center of the crown is a bunch of velvet pansies. An other suit is of light yelling, with an open work insertion forming the border on one side of the goods. The skirt, which falls loose over false skirt, has very deep band of this insertion. The unique is so disposed that the band of insertion falls on the right side in a shawl point. The goods are puffed in the back. Down the left side of the dress is ,t broad band of coloIed noire. This band extends over the skirt and unique. The eui1ass waist has two. darts in front and two tengthwise bands of insertion. The tailleur pack forms two futed plaits below the waist \ band of moire of the same width as the the skirt makes a fichu on the waist. 1t is gathered over the shoulders, is crossed n the lower part of the waist, and is fasten- d under an ornament. The ends fall over the skirt in swallow-tail shape. The small
 traight collar is covered with insertion. The iong tight-htting sleeves have cuffs of the same work. The round hat for wear with this suit is of satin straw. It has a high pointed crown and narrow brim turned up Ill round. The crown is surrounded by an embroidered etamine drapery, with two stiff teathers in front. The sunshade matching 5his suit may be of embroidered silk gauge.
 Straw ornaments are much used for bonnet trimmings. Some hats have the brims lined with straw galloon in different styles alter mating. Loops of these galloons are also mixed with punches of flowers. A new hat called ''Chapeau Nercure" has a brim of fancy straw tied down over the ears and raised over the forehead. In this raised part is full plating of tulIe. On the outside of the hat is fichu of faille or of stamped eta mine, which covers the whole crown. A raised piece like wing is on either side of the head. The Amazone hat with 8 high and narrow upturned brim is in great favor The trimming is also very high, as the fol lowing model will indicate: It is a black straw with the brim lined with black velvet. drapery of corn-colored faille is arranged in fan shape in front of the crown. Over this is an ornament consisting of three jet leaves. A twisted piece of the faille covers the start ing point of the leaves. Raised about this trimming is butterfly and dragon fly. These are so placed that they set off from the trimming as though flying.
 Some attempts have been made in Paris to bring white hose in use, but without success, as colored stockings are much more service able. A good quality of thread stocking is preferable to any inferior article of silk, as it retains it's color better and is also stronger.
 Thread gloves ill open work are much worn. Some of them are embroidered. They serve for walking purposes and for country wear. Washable buckskin gloves are also used for this purpose. For visiting and on full dress occasions Sake and undressed kid gloves are the style. They vary in length according to the sleeves with which they are worn. With short sleeves gloves reach to above the elbow. A novelty called Russia leather glove is destined to replace the derby, which has been in vogue so long. It is of the same quality of leather as the derby, and has three rows of stitching down the back, but it differs from it in color. It is, in fact, Russia leather color, but of darker shade of red, and it corresponds with the tones of all costumes. This style of glove is widely adopted by French ladies addicted to horse I,ool- rfdipn