The Arizona sentinel. [volume] (Arizona City [Yuma], Yuma County, A.T. [Ariz.]) 1872-1911, 1885-10-24
JACKETS AND CLOAKS.
Description of the Most POpu1 ar Fall an
Winter Wrap.

Description of the Most Popul ar Fall an
Winter Wrap.
Three kinds of wraps are imported
for autumn and winter use, viz: cloth
jackets for general wear, short mant-
les for dress occasions. and long
cloaks for comfort. The English
fancy is to use rough-fn shed cloths
for jackets and other outside gar.
ments; but French ia lors prefer
smooth cloths even for short and
ialnty jackets, using the rough cloths
merely for borders, collars and cuffs.
The new jackets are shorter in the
back and longer in front, sloping
gradually to point. The back has
two SHE forms on each side, fitting it
closely to the figure, except in very
small sizes, where this would cut up
the cloth into so many small pieces
that only one side form is preferred.
The middle forms may end in plaits
or be smoothly fitted over the tour
nure. The fronts of rough cloth
jackets are either double or single
breasted, but in most cases the ght
side laps Oh the left at the top and
buttons diagonally. The fronts are
now provided with darts. and are
nearer being tight-fitt;ng than they
were in last season coats. The boucle
cloths and the thick blanket cloths
with rough finish, the diagonal cloths
and the somewhat smoother home
spuns, are made up in this way in dark
brown, blue, plOmb and black, and
two colors, such as brown with blue or
brown with red. The standing co lar
about two inches high is preferred on
these coats. and may be of cloth, or
of velvet, or of heavy repped silk.
1t is finished around the edges W tn
piping or cord of mohair brad such
as finishes the edges of the whole gar
ment; the fronts of the collar are
straight. and are made to meet, being
prov .ded with a button hole in each
end, through which two linked buttons
are passed; if not tas ened in tn way,
there is a small clasp of WOO or metal,
or else mammoth hook and eye of
fame full design. The coat sleeves are
amply loose all their length, but have
no added fullness at the top. Small
cuffs match the collar. Slit
pockets bound with braid are on the
sides.
Very large flat buttons are again
use1, and there are generally two >izes
on the same jacket; at the top and at
the waist line are set buttons two inches
in diameter. while those between are
but half that 81 &c. Naturally, fewer
buttons are used. now that they are so
much larger, and in costumes these
large buttons are confined to the skirt
and coat, while smaller sizes that fasten
more easily are placed on the corsage.
Flat plaques orcup-shaped backgrounds
Of bright metal holding stars, flowers
Or fans of darker metals are the popu-
ar designs for buttons on wraps and
On cloth dresses. The fancy for vests
and for revers fronts continues, but
hese are seen more often on the fine
jackets that are imported
rom French modistes. Dark green
10th is in favor for French jackets cat
With the fronts turned back in revers
hat lap only at the waist line, disclos-
NO above this vest of the cloth or of
ATTN, plush or velvet. Brown, blue
Ind black cloths are similarly made,
md many are finished with a high col
ar and sleeve bands of furs or else of
'ougn Astrakhan cloth. Braid is still
lsed in diagonal rows and in points on
he vest collar and sleeves, and as a
,oIder on the lower edge. Alaska
able Persian lamb-skin and the light
natural beavers viii be the popular furs
or trimming cloth wraps.
Long cloaks are made with closely
tilted backs, half-loose fronts and |
quare sleeves. The back is cut of !
ust below the waist line, and the full
less necessary for the SIX TT is added |
here in large pleats. or in French gath
rs that are taken in long stitches,
making the edge shelve out from the |
loosely fitted waist. The fronts may |
Re single or double-breasted. but are |
Mostly fastened only as low as the |
7aist. The trimmings are arranged in |
engthw.se lines, as a border at the |
Dot is not desirable on these large |
Iraps, unless the wearer is very tall |
nd wishes to shorten her apparent |
eight Quilted sat n Innings are in |
be upper part of such garments, but
ne wadding seldom extends below the
Ups, as it is not needed there for
and tn helps to reduce the
eight, which has hitherto been the
bjection to large cloaks. Two kinds
velvet or plush, or else heavy ribbed
lks, are in the most dressy long
loaks, while palmer garments are of
ouc!e cloth or brocaded woods, or else
ne blanket cloths that need no lining.
or ulsters and closely fitted redi lgotes
he diagonal cloths are much used, and
18th these are hoods with lining and
svers of plush, either plain or striped.
he wood-beaded galloons and Theo-
ora braids are the trimmings for long
9th coats. Striped and checked
are liked Tor travelling coats,
nd these have the waist and sleeves
ned with satin. -Harper'S Bazaar.