Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-11-08
FOR THE LADIES.
RE FASHIONS IN FURs.
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pAys: Short mantlss Of seal-skin pro-
mise to be the most dressy wraps OF
he winter, Is they are Of small, close
sk&pes that outline the shoulders grace
iblly, clineing where warmth IS most
needed. and not copcesling the skirts
Of handsome costumes. They may DC
trimmed with q border Of some other
fur. but are handsome enough WIN
Qua any trimming. and the reader
4 advised that her best out
lay Of money is in an unsrimmcd gar
ment Of fine skins that may have trim,
mipr added hereafter when change OF
stvle NAV require ID. The smallest and
most ,o,,thfui-looking Of these NANTES,
called the George, has short back
forms ending in box pleafs just below
The waist line, while the sides are
folded under from the back TO form
small sleeves. that pass over the
pointed fronts. The standing collar 10
very high, the fronts are fastened by
hooks. and there is a rubber belt
inside TO keep the back close 10
the figure. When not trimaed sach
garment costs from clio upward. SINH
Jar TO this, with short back and square
sleeves. is the Archiduc, which mas
long mantilia fronts with square cor
ners. A third mantle, called the Boz
nita, is . regular visite, with short,
closely.fitted back and loose pointed
fronts. while the sides cover the hips, |
and there are square sleeves. The
Gretry is very ample yisitc with wide
sleeves, and, covering the tournure
and hips we'll, descends tritie lower
in front; this is the longest Of the short
nantes and most observation-disclosures
therefore 1t is more suitable tor elderly
ladies. II may be handsomely trimmed
with sable-tail border and fringe, or
with mink-tails or fisher-tails, with sill
yer fox. the costly see-otter, or with
black fox, but is more often bordered
with the popular and also fashionable
black marten, or with beaver-skins,
either colored or in their natural hue.
SEAL sACQUEs AND JACKETS.
The most useful seal-skin garment,
and the choice where comfort is most
considered, is a sacque with coat-sleeves
that give perfect freedom Of movement
to tie wearer instead Of holding the
arms closely to the sides, as most
nantes and cloaks are apt to do. The
newest sacques are cut longer, mea-
surfing from tbirty-eight to forty-two
inches, and are made fuller In the
skirt to give room for bouflant
tournure. The sides and back are
shaped in to the figure, while the fronts
are quite straight and double-breasted,
with 8 coat collar notched TO form
reyers that may be worn open or closed
about the throat. The coat sleeves now
have deep cuffs, and are large enough
to fit easily without having extra full
ness on the shoulders. Seal bars and
loops fasten the fronts. Dark-brown
quilted satin Innings are in most of the
seal wraps.
Short and jaunty jackets of seal-skin
for young ladies and misses are made
sipgle-breasted, with Understanding
military collar, unless q rolling collar
is preferred. Some Of these are straight
around the hips, but the French fancy
is for having the back quite short and
in full pleats below the waist line,
while the fronts are much longer and
pointed.
LONG sEAL-sRIN CLoAKs.
Long seal-skin cloaks, covering the
wearer from head to foot, are luxurious
and fashionable wraps, Notwithstanding
their weight. These are now made
clinging about the waist, with ample
fulness in the skirt to hang well over
large teurnures, or else they are left
open behind from the waist down. The
high, full appearance on the shoulders
is abandoned in new cloaks, and the
effect Of standing collar or rolled boa
is given in preference to wide
collars. The Gretry cloak, with
flowing sleeves, is like the visite
described above, heightened to the foot
of the wearer. The Galatea has sleeves
folded in from the back, and is double
breasted. The Ristori is looser,
broad garment, that displays effectively
wide borders of Russian sable, or the
fluffy fox furs eight inches broad, and
when made Of the finest Shetland seals,
with costly trimmings, its price reaches
smong the thousands. La Favorite
is garment Of three quarter
length. with pleats and trimming
set down each side Of the open back
to make it bouffant. Ladies who have
partly-worn long cloaks left from past
winters can have the best parts of the
fur made up in stylish short nantes,
but not in sacques, as the fur Of cloak
is cut in shapes that cannot be used ad-
vantageously for the latter. This re-
modelling and lining costs ESQ or 600.
Correspondents are advised that seal
skin is already dyed fur. and that TO
redye it makes the pelt thin and tender
hence furriers do not advise redying,
and viii only do it al the risk of the
owner.
FUR-TRIMMED CLoAKs-
All the shapes just described for
short nantes and long cloaks are made
mp in brocaded velvet, frise velvet,
corded silk, plush, or cancels hair, and
trimmed by the furrier with borders
and fringes Of fur that vary in width
according TO the size Of the garment.
There are many combinations Of two
materials in these cloaks, notably Of
velvet brocaded on repped silk COM
bined with plain corded silk OF very |
heavy quality, one fabric represent
ing short mantle, and the
other being full and long enough |
TO resemble the skirt OF . dress.
Ranciful cclored Innings enrich these
sloaks. such as moire, striped silk, and
bFocsded satins. For elderly ladies the
Russian circular Of black repped silk
IL made with fitted back and fronts,
closing under side pieces that cover the
arms, and the whole Is bcrdered with
black fox, black marten, or other fur.
Cloth cloaks, and those Of the lighter
Qualities Of camel's-hair cloth are made
n black colors, and richly trimmed in
lenRthwise fur bands or borders.
PERSIAN LAMB JACKETS.
The black Persian lamb-skins, gene
rally known as Astrakhan, but which
are much more silky than the curly As
trakhan skins, are made in closely fitted