Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-02-01
NEW STYLES N UNpERwEAR.

4
The new rage is for tuckng, and it cam
rot be executed with sufficient tineness
for the fastIdiOus tastes of the cultivated.
Cotton and linen underwear displays an
enormous amount of exquisite tuckIngs,
some OF it executed in clusters and alter
mating with needlewOrk insertion, some
done in alternate wide and clustered lines,
and still other garments in what is known
as the ''all OveT'' style, which is always
pretty when neatly executed. and always
admired. Very new and delicate effects
are produced by groups Of fine leugthwise
tucking, alternating with a fiat strip,
cut and very delicatelv stitched on in a
diamond pattern. Lace insertions and
lace trimming nave given way to this new
tucking aud needlewOrk mania. partIcu-
l3rly the tuCking and stitching on of fiat
strips, cut ont in some little olive, Greek,
leafy or diamond design.
IUcking is not only more used than
ever before for drawers, chemises, night
dresses and combination garments but it
IS also in high vogue for cotton skirts,
both dresses and petticOats, and is es-
pecialIy used in the place Of fluted rutiies,
which have been so long employed that
huting has become an accomplishment OF
the most ordinary laundrcss. Ruiiles are
now only put upon the back of the skirt,
ascending in a series to the waist, and
these are no longer iuted, bat simply
gathered and irOned plain. Gray under
skirts made of thin drilling are bounced
in this way, and gathered in slightly half
the way down, with a casing and drawing
strings. These quite save the necessity
for the disagFeeable hustle or i'm
proven"
Most useful skirts for spring wear and
for travelling are made Of plain gray Or
black satteen. The black are particu-
larly good for wear with black silk and
wool dresses, and are pleasant wear in
summer with grenadines. A pretty way
Of making them is with hem and tucks in
front and at the foot, knife killings at
the back, the upper part plain, as the
material lays fiat, and should be worn
with a rutied skirt underneath.
LINEN CUFFS AND COLLARS.
The narrow rim of linen cuff and collar
has held its own for many years, and
though it is asserted at times that cuffs
have disappeared, that ruflies have taken
their place, or that the edge of the sleeve
is left bare tor the glove to be drawn over,
it is noticed that cuffs and collars still
remain. are still in demand, and show
their dainty edge beyond the dark line of
the sleeves, exactly as they have done
for years past. The truth is that there is
nothing that is so suitable as finish, or
tail0r-made cloth dress, as a narrow rim
of linen cuff and collar, and there is no
rutlie of lace, or plating Of linen or mus
lin, that is a proper substitute. Ruil1es
are untidy upon the edge of a seryiceable
sleeve, and soon look sOiled and
worn, while lace shows every
blemsh, and is too frail as finish to a
thick cloth dress. As for the bare edge,
it is very unbecOming when gloves are
taken OFF, and demand the use always of
gloves Of a peculiar length and make,
which are not always obtainable for every
one. Besides, as remarked before, when
the gloves are removed, there is the OBJ
lection Of the dark unfinished edge and
bare extended wrist. the sleeve now al
ways leaving the arm uncovered, at its
least attractive lower extremity.
The linen cuff has its disadvantages. 1t
is s.itf, it is usually made too deep and
too large, and the sleeve is often so mar
row that it is with difficulty it is adjusted
and kept in place. A button or fastening
by which it could be more easily held in
place is great desideratum, but it is not
easy to adapt an instrument so simple
as 1t would have to be to the varying re-
Quirements. Men have their shirt-sleeYes
10 afliX their cuffs to, besides which their
sleeves are much wider at the wrist. The
best way we know Of at present IS to open
INC StCt-FC u SHUT NiobdiCC u pom JuG DdChs
and close it with three small but
tons and button-holes. This af-
fords an opening by which the
cuff can be kept in place without any
trouble whatever. There is a good deal
in the selection OF the right kind Of
cuffs. The newest, and best for a narrow
sleeve, are the Jersey" cuffs, which
are not more than half the depth Of the old
fashioned cuffs, and are reversible. A
small closely linked button, or hook and
eye button, the latter small and fiat, or
elongated, would be advantageous, the
large wooden round or oval sleeve button
being very much in the way. The pres
ent narrow straight collar fastened with
a button, and attached to a small single
yoke, is exactly suited to the high, narrow
sanding collar, which remains as fash
ionable as ever, and is more generally be-
coming than any other finish for cloth
and wool dresses. JENNY JUNE.