The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-06-27
MIDSUMMER MODES.


Partisan milliners drape white straw bonnets
with black lace.
On full-d occasions lace bonnets are more
fashionable than any Others and roses are their
garniture.
The chemise Russo. or Russian blouse is
full, round bodice, like a boys shirt without
tucks and is invariably worn with belt
All styles of pendants are now worn for even
ing suspended to narrow bands or ribbons Of
| tule, which are tied in a little bow on one side
of the neck
Pale nuns gray is still in high favor in fash
ionable circles. and favorite combination seems
| to be an exquisitely fine French cashmere, and
MORE Franchise j. O., silk watered in fine
waves
pretty mantle for the seashore is a cardinal
cape of bright red cloth lined throughout with
| red plush, and furnished with hood; the front
is thrown back in revers to show the plush
lining.
The greatest simplicity in style and trimming
and the perfection of fit and make are the lead
ing characteristics of the travelling, seaside, and
utility dresses for mountain and country use
| for the summer.
The tendency to have the skirt cling closely in
front and on the side while the back is full con-
tlnues, but there is also marked disposition to
return to full puffs on the hips and to short, fun
draperies in front.
Delcately striped grenadines, showing an
alternate stripe of coored satin, are worn as
princesse polonaises overskirts of white lace,
these arranged in deep founces over foundation
skirts OF satin the shade of the stripe.
Scarf mantillas tied loosely over the bust, the
long fronts falling nearly 20 the knees, are worn
to m atch every costume. They are also made of
lace, net, silk, tissue and surah, trimmed with
lace, fringe, embroidery and ruching, to be worn
with any dress
White plumes will be fashionable all summer
upon dressy white hats, but with this exception
the lovely wreaths, montures and sprays of fine
French flowers, grasses and foliage will quite
usurp the reign of feathers as garniture for
hats and bonnets until the autumn breezes blow.
Belts, as everyone knows, are apt to curl up
unless properly stffened. The best foundation
which car be used is canvas belt like those
worn for bathing and by base ball players. The
straps and buckles must be ripped off and the
belt covered with the material and fastened with
buckle or fancy clasp
A pretty variation on the perfectly straight
skirt has the deep founce of lace or embroidery
cut with yard or so of extra length, and this is
brought up diagonally across one side OF the
'front.' with the upper end caught in folds far
back on the hip, where the folds are hidden I'M
der the loops of the baby bow.
Many dresses are cut square in the neck and
others are in V shape. These are often filled in
with tulle or some one of the fashionable laces;
again they are only edged with lace or ruching
collars, which shown in a number of forms,
from the simple band of black or colored vel
vet to the most gorgeous necklet OF precious
stones.
The fancy for straight round skirts with baby
bodices, or full skirts under zouave Jackets
grows. They used chiefly for ginghans and
lawns and for dresses the skirts to which are
formed of single deep fiounce: either of lace or
embroidery Such skirts are wider than
formerly They measure from three to three
and half, or even four. yards in width and are
gathered round the waist
A new heavily jersey cloth is used by
fashionable modistes for waists to wear with
dark surah skirts at the seaside. This fabric is
of English WOOL woven III ribs almost as large as
those of Cardigan jackets. and is worn by lovers
of novelty who have abandoned the beaded,
braided, and lace trimmed silk jerseys The
modistes make it up with all the darts and side
forms of a basque, yet without lining.
caprice of the moment, and one that prom
ises extended popularity, is the wearing of small
ornamental clasps or medals, coins and the like
in silver, gold bronze and half-precious jewels,
these connected by fine gold chains and made to
fasten the high military collars, deep cuffs and
belts of velvet in place. The sizes vary from
those of an ordinary 5cent nickel for the collars
and cuffs to one or two inches across for the
waistclasp. The smaller ones resemble the
linked cuff buttons worn by gentlemen
The most practical and comfortable hustle is
either three fiounces of stiffly starched muslin.
set one above the other, overlapping on foun-
dation of the same material or simpler still,
two copies of a newspaper, one inside the other,
folded down the center of the page in box
pleat, and then this pleat, with one end
about three in longer than the other. A
string is passed this fold and secures the
paper hustle ar the waist The longest end
Of the paper should come outside, and the hustle
must not be tied closely around the figure but
allowed to droop just little, in order to give
graceful slope to the tournure
Jacket bodces of all sorts are coming to the
front. They often simulated by trimming.
A novel and pretty form of this consists of false
fronts of wide lace on embroidery, sewed in on
| the shoulders and under arm seams like close
jacket over a fat vest. This is suitable for any
dress with such trimming, but is perhaps most
effective in lace over silk. Another novel fancy
gathers a founce of embroidery from six to seven
inches deep, full around the armhole Of the dress
from the shoulder to the under-arm seam tho
ends OF the founce being sewed plainly in these
seams. This produces zouave effect and is an
excellent idea for freshoning up half.worn