Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-12-05


open: with deep fringe on the top OF the arms,
forming epaulets. The vest is OF white satin.
The skirt is OF velvet, its right side yelled in
lace over satin. the designs OF the lace being
followed with gold thread. The lett half Is In
narrow folds of satin, held down with gold
thread ornaments, representing antique COINS
This dress Is intended for receptions at home,
but as it can be worn a carriage dress, 1t Is
accompanied by a curious cap-lke affair Tor the
head OF satin and velvet, with two tiny stuffed
canaries on the front, held down by the coin
like ornaments as on the dress. The yellow
silk gloves are twice the length OF the arm ana
are intended to form deep wrinkles all the way
to the hand.
One of the evening dresses has border Of
white heather, sewed on as swanS-dOwn wOuiu
be and covering the entire waist. An immense
garland OF heather trayerses the entire front OF
the skirt. But marvellous bal-dress must not
be neglected. 1t has a skirt OF yellow satin en-
brOidered with gold thread in geraniums, for
get-me-nOts and bleeding hearts" The bodice
and train are in brocade, with q widely spaced
pattern of the same flowers, very much larger,
however, than the naturnal size, which is re-
an embroidered front, showing the flowers as If
detached and dropping. To be worn with this
by noted Paris jeweler. 1t consists of a Golf
Of gold, and fitting tightly down on the
Venice by the Dogaressa or wife of the Doge in
the fifteenth century. The bride has short
hair, which, being dressed habitually in clus-
tering curls, will surround the head like a
wreath, and on which the effect of this pecu-
liar coJ is extremely picturesque.
breadth will scarcely I'LL a lingering, Is made
up over pale 'morning-glOry' blue satin, and
has an enormous ruch of tulle at the throat.
II opens from the throat down, Is edged with a
huge putting OF tulle and is hand-embrOidered
over its immense width with design of
morning -glories wrought in silk.
\ necklace OF Egypt coins in dull gold,
parasol with its handle set with topaz, fan de-
signed by Watts, a obedience panel, a Persian
carpet Tor bOudolr, OF immense value, and u
genuine FrOissart nussaI form a part OF the
bridegroom's gifts. Though an American he
resides at Lucca.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DRESS
displayed at the first meeting OF the season of the
Nineteenth Centuey club, where many elegant
tollettes were to be seen was the one worn by
the charming wife OF well known English
artist, Mrs. Felix Moschele. 1t was composed
of a princesse train of golden brown velvet,
with an entire front of soft pale blue Liberty"
satin. covered with wild (briar) roses in shades
of pink, paling almost to white embroidered by
hand III a most artistic manner without pattern
anu IN hensington silks. The embroidered
front formed low square, the velvet the high
part of the bodice, which was finished with q
ruff lined with satin and antique Mechln lace.
The wife of the president wore most becom-
ing and effective toilette. consisting OF n mixture
oil Gahlia red brOcade and satin trimmed With
an artistic beaded embroidery in which bronze
shades were intermngled; showing some lON ely
lace, amidst which sparkled superb diamonds.
Perhaps the most novel OF the recent impOr-
tatlOnS are the "RenaiSsance' toiietteS, of
which one was recently received by Il well
known leader of fashion, from Il famous Par
Islam mouse. IhlS Is OF white satin embroidered
with bronze and gold and silk in tique de-
sign, with small ruby. turquoise and other
stones introduced, giving the effect OF the
Renaissance styles in jewelry, which have been
revived in Germany, and finding their
way to Paris, London and New York. The bod
ice of this dress is cut very low with depres-
sion, which Is hardly a point, in the center of
the back and front. Above these rise the folds
OF a tulle fichu, dotted with bronze beading and
crossed over in front, leaving the throat unin-
numbered, except by the necklace with pen
dants, which should be of jewelry to match the
dress. The train is plain, but there is panel
inserted the length OF The back, Oh broad tulle,
outlined with a cascade on each side, OF wide
antique necklace, which falls equally over the
tulle and satin,
DINNER DRESSES
for two young ladies, made and cut by the same
house, consist of cream silk lace skirts with
stripes of garnet and old gold and bronze and
old gold ill small squares interlaced, dividing
the 'front.' into panels. The low basque bodice rs
OF velvet Ill the dark shade, with a 'front.' of in
terlaced squares matching the stripes and
strings of dull amber beads, festo0ned from the
top vi the shoulder and descending upon tue
arm, forming the only attempt at II sleeve. The
edge OF the velvet was destitute of any sign OF
lace or tule at the neck, but the lower edge Oh
The basque was outlined with small amber
beads, thrown up very effectively by tine wi.e
garnet MORE sash in one case, and the bronze in
the other, which were arranged over the cream
lace uraperleS AT the Dack.-
Many ladies have had jetted bodces with
transparent sleeves, made for wear with black
lace skirts. while Tor young ladies the low,
square or N-shaped basque-bodice of velvet or
satin III ruby, or garnet, or brown. or bronze is
ready, with its pretty cream lace draperied
skirt Tor theater party or dinner, or both, the
case may be.
Dresses not imported are more conveniently
MADE OF oInbinations OF velvet and brocude,
brocade ana satin, satin and crepe de chime. or
ottoman silk with some rich trimming material
70 CIV" the effective touch which every one
feels Is required in a dressy costume no matter
how modest is pretensions In dresses OF
plain rich iaille this touch may be ADDED by a
Iuli vest OF rich watered silk outlined with
IL
into an outstanding COLLAR lined with the silk.
put covered with lace. y side panel may also
be Introduced, barred across with narrow J0iLe
ribbons, tied In small FIAT bows without ends,
ana Inc vest may be made to match.
FUR AND FURRED TRIMMINGS
are more lashlonably as we'll popularity
worn than at any time within the past twenty
years. The trimmings have, however. largely
superseded furs proper. Furred cloths are not
only employed in this way but they are made
up TO match trimmings into muff, and collar
cites, INTO capes and peicrines at home as well
as by the fnodtste. Ladies have discovered inv
EXPERIMENT. III refining and making the little
POCKET mum that the cOnst ructiOn of he orCi-
nary nary mum Is a very simple affair pattern, IA
niue dizziness IN manipulation and IL couple OF
hours suftcinS, while the cost. Including the
now essential satin bow to match the costume
Is a trine, compared with ready-made pur-
chase OF the same appearance and quality
shoulder capes aud pelerines made of furred
eioth or plush lined with old gold, bronze or
danlla red quilted satin are now much used
over dinner and evening dresses of li,rht
materials especially those made with ioW
oOdlcesl III case of chill or draughty rooms or
exposure 10 an open window. They are con.
Venient also in riding, with u round ..Conne-
mara cloak, If without cape of their own. tor
there Is nothing now more fashionable than an
irish peasant cloak OF fine dark blue cloth
lined with dark red plush and finished with n
cape OF velvet astrak nan or plush lined soand
thrown back on one side to show the color
There Is comparatively little use for indepen-
dent 1ur articles in the street. iurred and fur
trimming encrcling the throat so as to render
them quite unnecessary. All Jackets are now
made with the high officers collar and This
and the bordering are OF fur, while the lining
OF velvet or handsome cloth is often of rich silk
plush OF a contrasting color.
coats, also, are finished in the same way the
mum ana hat being often made from the same
piece oi cloth or velvet and all bOrdlered with
bands oil The fur, beaver upon russell brown
astraKhan or grebe upon bottle green, black
martin, or lynx upon black or indigo blue and
Alaska seal or sable upon leaf or bronze brown
leopard plush, introduced last season, can
never De popular, but some striking costumes
nave been made by combining it with velvet and
using IL Tor panels, fronts, long uelerines vests
ana the crown OF the bonnet. ME conyOluted
ana spotted figures arc in shades of brown rnon
tlnteu white, and the combination is made with
goiaen Drown velvet or cloth, lined with old
gold. ~ ~
BoNNETS.
Inc collie shaped bOnnets, to which alluded
In my last, are growing in favor Some are
maue In beads, sewn closely upon foundation.
with rim OF larger heads surrounding the face
KHAN, or the soft, closely curled lambswOoI the
no.