Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1885-11-15

parts put into a SKIRT tnat mas straight.
full, gathered back breadths. with
either a wide box plat in front. like
that on bows Kilt, or else draped
apron; the worn lower parts of the
basque can be cut off to make pointed
waist. and the upper part Of the front
can be renewed by striped velvet
plastron, with reverS Up each side that
nearly cover the old front part. This
plastron and the sash drapery are all
the new parts required. and can be
made four wards of riped velvet, or
else of sash. with half yard of sim
liar velvet for the plastron, high collar,
and bias fold which forms cuffs inside
the sleeves. Sometimes the gloss of
satin. or of beaded silk. or of fraille
franchise. is preferred for this plastron
because it is more becoming
style than that with sash, consist ng OF
basque front. with the po'onaise part
confined to the four middle back forms
which are heightened COW the waist
line to make two long flat tabs that eN-
tend to the foot of the dress. These
tabs are about half a yard wide, are
lined with silk or satin lining through
out, and if striped need not be
trimmed. but when made OF plain
cloth they are bordered with velvet or
with yaIloun two or three inches wide
A pretty fan V for the ,ront of this gar
ment is TO make Of the wool goods a
square Figaro jacNet opening over a
soft satin vest that is b 'lted at the waist
line and cut off there The wool dress
patterns that come partly plain and
partly striped are made up in this way.
using the stripes for the polonaiSe and
for the front of the skirt. which Is
draped in Greek apron that shows
plain velvet at the foot, while the back
is made of two full gathered brcadths
of the plain wool. Dark plum or navy
blue wool diagonal with Persian stripes
is made up in this way. with dull red
velvet at the foot of the front breadths.
and either plum or blue satin for the
vest order to make the vest warm
enough. light flannel is laid over the
sill sia lining beneath the satin.
A third design for polnnaises. very
effective when made of ladies' cloth
over velvet skirt, is really princesse
dress with .he fronts turned back from
waist to foot to form very wide revers.
on which cross bands or points of braid
and wood buttons are set. The front Of
the corsage also turns back in revers
from the waist up to the shoulders. and
discloSes vest of plush or OF velvet
like that Of the skirt. The back is laid
in wide dou lie box pleats. and orna-
mented with braid and wood buttons.
and there are large square pockets on
the sides This polonaise will be hand
some in brown. black ar blue cloth.
with the plush or velvet skirt laid in 4
wide box pleat in front from the waist
to the foot, while the sides and back of
the four dation skirt have velvet only at
the foot in the small space visible below
the long polonaise.
Still another polonaise is like great
edingote. and 50 nearly conceals the
lower skirt that only very plain skirt
is required. with a narrow pleating OF
the material at the foot. This polonaise
is long all around and entirely I'M
draped. being slit up in the skirt to
form six long flat tabs. one tab being
in each front. a tab on each side being
made of combinations of the two side
forms. while each middle form of the
back extends in a separate tab. These
tabs are lined throughout with thin lin
ing silk. and when made of cloth are
bordered with plated braid two inches
wide. This is a good plan for cloth
dresses that are all Of one material. and
will also be used for velvetean. cordu-
roy and plain silk velvet costumes. The
basket cloths and the diagonal cloths
that have velvet stripes are also made
IN this way over skirt Of plain cloth
or of plain velvet Harpr's Basar.