St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-07-12
FASHIONS FOR JULY.
Clothes in the Summer Season When They
Seem Quite SuperAuous for
Ease or Comfort.
Styles in Skirts, Structure of the Bus
tie and the Shapes and Ma
tertaIs Considered.
The True and Curious Reason Why a
Grips Gait Became Peculiar
Clara BelI's Gossip.
Summer Dresses.

Summer Dresses.
While many new dresses are made in the
Ola style Oh draped overskirts tabliers, hip
uraPerles and puts and buffant loopingS in
the back, the straight skirts are most ia
vogue, and are popular as much for tine re-
lief they give the wearer, the dressmaker
and the laundresS as for their classic beauty.
But such Is the variety and latitude per-
ihIGteu IN tnlS as IN other matters of dress it
Is still possible for every lady to attire her
self according to her individual taste and in
conformity with the requirements of fash
ION without wearing what everybody else
does. For straight skirts the style called
tne couIlsse is in high favor at the moment.
Inc coullSse IS shirred skirt, the shirring
being repeated several times within n snace
from two to three inches below the gather
ing thread at the top. where the Skirt ia
fastened on to
THE CORSAGE.
All gathered or plated straight skirts ara
now attached to the waist, whether it is
po1nteu OF round, belted or with a short
basque. In these Shirrings the TuIIness of
the skirt is not equally divided all around.
1ne greater part is maSSed at the back The
rest Is scattered over the hips and sides to
the Iront, OF course. The weight and ampli-
tuue OF the skirt at the back are sustained
ny rigid, protuberant hustle, which is
further enlarged by a moderate pad of hair
placed under the skirt at the back. and
sometimes extending on the hips. This stvIe
Is very new, and not universally adopted.
OUT IL SHOWS the tendency of fashion in the
MATTER OF dress skirts. All skirts of dresses
noG framed or demi-trained are now cut
shorter. That is to saw. the bottom o+ tbe
hem barely touches the instep in front. and
shows the whole foot, heel and all. lust COW
| ering ' JAZZ
| THE ANKLE
| Girls with big feet, Chicago girls es-
peclaliy, Will seriously object to this fash
lon, but those with such feet as the ST.
Paul girls, and all the girls along the Mis-
slSsippi river to New Orleans, will be in
ecstaSies over this short skirt To add to
us captivating grace, but making it more
empnaucally the skirt of the woman with
the pretty foot, the cOulisse skirt is finished
only with fiat trimming. No plating or
| oalayeuse is permitted. Nothing but q
| Selvedge border woven in the material. or
some ornament of braid or embroidery. but
more frequently nothing but a hem. A
small ruche or Hat plating is sometimes
placed under the hem, but it must not pro-
JecG more imam line, or quarter of an inch
below 1t, and must be rather suggestive of
AN UNDERsKIRr
OF the same color than trimming or a
| DalayeuSe. This coulisse skirt admits of
more variety than might be supposed. Some
times 1t Is slashed on one side or the other.
OF directly Ill front. or on both sides, OPEN
ing haIt way up over deep band of en-
brOldered stuff, or of plush or velvet or anv
substantial material preferred, trimmed with
rows or braid or galloOn of a contrasting
color or of gold tmsel, and producing the
| effect OF pettlcOat This idea is then car
RED out by opening the corsage in front
over waistcoat of the same material as
that OF the skirt under slaShes. and trimmed
also to match the same. What is extremely
regrettable in the present fashion of skirts
Is the exaggeration of
THE BUsTLE.
The least informed male observer can sea
at glance that the rearward protrusiOn of
draperies does not depend for support on the
body OF the weaTer-unleSs she be hump-
backed very low dOwn-and to his mind is
unpieasantly suggested very unpoetic struc-
ture.
L haven't had much to say in answer to
thOSe maJestcally wise old fellows who
nave lately been writing about reform in the
dress OF woman. They are simply comical,
In the main. But when one of them asserts
that, Tor the sake of comfort, we ought to
make all our clothes loose, he is so grotes-
quely aStray from the truth that | can't helm
telling him that he is simpleton. There is
something or other in the disposition of
woman which makes her like to be held
hard and fast. That is why she wouldn't
really
GIVE UP CoRSETs
If she could. From the tightly-pinned hair
on her head to the shoes on her feet. she
prefers to have her coverings moderately
snug. Why, only yesterday an incident
went to prove the truth of what [ am urg-
ng-that one feels lost and awry without
the sense of sustainment arising from cud-
died garb. My dear friend Annette has a
gait unexampled for grace and tirmness.
She is not so pretty, to tell the honest fact
behind her back, as to make men turn to
look at her face, but they do inspect her
heels. to see if there are wings to them, so
flexible and airy are her footsteps. What
was my establishment, therefore, on meeting
her and observing, as she approached, that
she Wabbled from side to side, that
LONG STRIDES
and mincing steps were intermingled. and
that all the beauty of her carriage was gone
Goodness gracious, Annette" l ex-
claimed. ''what have you been drinking?
Get right home-do dear girl'
Il haven't swallowed so much as ginger
lemonade to-day" she replied; ''but I'll
tell you what's the matter. 1 am accus-
toned to extra long hosiery, you know; and
my stOcking-supporters are the kind that
are firmly fastened to my belt. But I've a
dress-reform aunt, and she induced me to
put on kind of tOggery that did not un-
derstand. She declared that was stopping
the circulation by too snug stockings, and to
| humOr the dear old dOlt harnecced YnvsaIf
according to her directions You saw the
consequences at a glance, didn't you? My
legs feel as though the skin, muscles and
bones were all gone, and they were like a
pair of jelly-ish, incapable of supporting
my weight. That's what's the matter with
my gait"
Midsummer Hats.
The fashion of using profusion Of bios