Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-07-18

Written for The Herald bs = Leoas. g
REyERs DRAPERIEs.


REvERS DRAPERIEs.
There is fancy for reyers draperies
both in the front and back of overskirts.
For short high apron front the fabric is
pleated on the right side high on the hips,
curves down in front, and its left half is
turned upward in revers and pleated to
the top and back. The material for such
drapery must be alike on both sides. To
correspond with this the back drapery is
made crosswise, with selvedge at top and
bottom, the lower sides being turned up
to the top, nearly meeting in the middle,
and trimmed with band of velvet down
each edge; this gives wide revers on
each side, and is pleated or gathered to
the belt.
TO REMODEL BAsQUEs.
Basques that are worn or soiled in the
front about the button holes, can be fresh
ened by having narrow vest of velvet
or striped goods, or of plain goods tucked
horizontally, set in a single piece down
each of its sides. The material of the
basque can be cut down each side of the
fraved front, and turned back to form
with intsrlining) place for the button
four inches across the top, and tapers
nearly to point below. The fronts of a
worn basque may be sloped off to repre-
sent loose jacket. and new vest of
different material set underneath. Wide
sash draperies of ribbons or of soft silks,
are now arranged over the edges of bas-
ques that are partly worn, and are tied
in full loops and ends behind. Broad
watered ribbon can be used in this way
to renew basques and worn Jerseys to a
good advantage.
When the basque is defaced or worn
around the hips, and is old-fashioned in
the back, it can be worn under the skirt
bands to simulate round waist by add
ing belt or sash ribbon.
WASH DRESSES.
For wash dresses the linen lawns with
black figures in white ground are made
with belted waists and round skirts for
elderly ladies.
Seersucker, in dark blue and white
stripes, is made with polenaise that has
its pointed sides.edged with white Ham
burg embroidery. The skirt with which
this is worn has two very deep gathered
ruff1esalso edged with the scalloped en-
broidery.
Black lace and the transparent beaded
bonnets are worn by old ladies on formal
occasions, and with these bordered wells
of lace are again coming into favor. The
straw bonnets are of closer shape, and
larger than the capotes worn by younger
women.
FANCIES.
Moyenage scarfs of ecru or blue gray
etamine, printed with gilt and heraldic
figures are imported to be used either as
sashes or shoulder scarfs passed plainly
around the shoulders and knotted or lap
ped in front in fichu style.
Balmoral skirts of poppy red satteen
are made for use in the mountains and at
the sea side, but there is no reason why
we should not wear them here as we are
in the mountains to some extent. They
are made with a single depassant pleat-
ing. A depassant is two or three inches
deep and is set to the edge of the founda-
ton skirt, not upon it.
The most convenient hustle is a square
pad of hair sewed permanently to the
dress skirt at the belt, while below two
or three steels are put in castings across
the back of the foundation skirt.
For the neck and wrists of morningan
travelling dresses there is worn an inside
fold made of of repped pique, cut on the
bias and measuring an inch and
a quarter in d e pth. A binding
of satteen tape covers the raw edges, and
holds it in place. At least an inch of the
fold shows above the collar of the dress.
Pillow shams are used, but it is more
fashionable now to have plain linen pill
low slips with hem stitched on the ends
that hang down.
For bed covers there are white, buff.
pink or red marsailles spreads, or else
they are covered with colored madras
muslin and have window curtains to
match.
Odd sided draperies and trimmings are
fashionable. The surplice cut of a jacket
at the throat, has one of the lapels cover
ed with velvet. while, the opposite, the
longest side that crosses over, is covered
with lace.
The centre back seams of many basques
are now trimmed frequently of velvet in
rich color and contrast to the shade of
the basque material. The full jaunty
+" birds tail position finishes the lower
portion of the basqae, bodice, jacket and
in few cases even the round waist has
this addition to give style to the back.
Ii this is omitted sash takes its place, as
it is not now considered good form to
leave the plain gathers of the full skirt in
the back uncovered unless the breadths
are tucked to the waist. LEONE.