Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-02-14
FOR GENTLEMEN.
The Coming Styles I'm Coats.

Ahe SOulnS Styles NOOt9s
From the Clothing Furnisher
For full dress the regular "swa1low-tair has,
Oh course, the lead, but we are pleased to note
that great liberties are being taken with this
sedate, time and usher honored garment. Each
OF our leading houses has its own pet ideas
ABOUT the most artistic form. In fact, a diver
gence of opinion has recently developed which
Enthusiastically illustrates a feeling of decided
dissatisfaction with the iron-bound laws which
nave peen so long obeyed in the production OF
TINS coat. The style we have represented is,
favored. Instead of the slightly-rounded cor
ners at the hips and bottom of skirt, some lead
IL ing artists make sharp angles. Instead OF the
skirt only to the V, adding the width Of the
strap to the length of fore-part; some make the
when the skirt finishes at the v. But, however
opinions differ as to the most artistic of the va
rlous expressions named, all are agreed in max
well peaked, or the roll light if of the shawl
form; the sleeves moderately narrow and the
f6n d small Worsteds are generally used and
Broadcloth Is more popular with elderly men,
with raw edges or corded The facings show to
the end of the holes and peaked lapels; sleeves
are finished with cuffs and holes and buttons.
Black is mostly used, but colors are steadily
gaining in popularity.
THE DoUBLE-BREAsTED FRoCK
is as popular as ever. For day dress there is
favorite for business wear by professional men
and others whose business requires them to be
particularly well dressed. 1t is made about the
same as last fall, the changes being a lower roll
and slightly wider shoulders, with sleeves a
tIlhe larger. The lengths are the same. They
are made with five holes in each lapel and close
with four buttons. For spring wear all dark
colors are used, but for summer various shades
promise to be popular. The facings always
snow to the end OF the holes, and the edgings Of
the goods, If dark, are either bound or fat
braided, but close to the edge. The sleeves are
finished to initiate cuffs, generally with one,
but sometimes with two holes and buttons.
MORNING COATS
Are made to close with four, three or one but
ton, the four-button form being decidedly the
most popular. The features common to these
forms are high shoulder seams, wide back scyes
moderately curved side-seams, moderate waist
and full length, moderate width of back at
waist wider shoulders and larger sleeves than
last season, lower opening than last
and three buttoners are of about the same
length and form, the three showing only trif1e
more of the vest than the four. The lapels Of
both are moderately light, and turn from three
and half to four inches. The line of fronts
shows very subdued angle at the lower button,
The corners of the skirt are cut away with a
rather angular sweep. not a full, free round.
FLAPS are rarely placed on the waist seams I'M
one-button coat is cut with full, free sweep
from top of lapels to midway of the skirt and
then boldly rounded to bottom. The fronts are
made to close to top button or to roll Free
Sleeves for the three forms are about one inch
narrower at the elbow than at the top, and are
are finished to initiate cuffs, with one hole and
button. The edges are finished with binding
put on half and half or fiat braided with me-
dunn width braid.
wALKING-CoATs
A style which will enjoy some favor Is made
with waist length of twenty and a full length
OF thirty-two inches. This coat is but slightly
cut away in front, rolls about the same as q
morning coat and has rather wider shoulders.
Made from checked or pladed goods, it is q
very attractive garment.
SACK COATS.
No matter what other styles may be In favor,
the sack always enjoys considerable popular
ity. For office and business wear there is no
other style SO comfortable convenient and suit
able, and for this reason no other displace
the sack in popular favor. Besides these advan-
tages the sack looks well in land is better adapt
ed TO, the more pronounced styles of fabric than
the four button sack with light roll, say four
inches deep, with the fronts boldly rounded
from the lower button, will be tina favOrite style.
The straight front will be considerably worn
also. The one-button cutaway will be quite
popular for summer. The fronts are cut away
with full free sweep from the breast andboldly
rlably be made to roll free and will generally be
worn with the lagels turning nearly to
the lower Inc length WILL about
the same as last fall, end will be gov
erned by the knuckles on wellproportioned
man. The back is less closely fitted than last
season, but is toleraby well defined. The shout
der seams are almost on top of the shoulders
and the shoulders are slightly wider than for a
frock. The sleeves are of medium size, and are
finished to initiate shallow cuffs with hole and
button, or have small rounded vent, with
stitching around just above, and one button.
On the cutaway the fajngs sometimes show 10
end Of collar, but self-facing will also be popu-
lar. For early spring and for aquatic purposes
lengths and general features are the same as for
the single breast. The lapels are moderately
four-and-a-haf inches back from the edge, and
oil the corners are sharp. Edges are t1atbraided
when goods permit, otherwise they are stitched
either close to the edge with two rows, or with
one row close to edge and the other three
eighths of an inch further back. The wide
stitching is generally confined to the cutaway
and double-breasted form.