Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-06-17
From the New York sun.

"
to Newport News, which faces Norfolk. TIL,
scenes along the shores are also full of interest
and will prove n novelty to those familiar only
with the Hudson or the St Lawrence. TIL,
physiognomy OF the landscape and the genera
characteristics are quite different, for will
every mile passed over the traveller feels tina
he is advancing further and further into ole
Virginia. 1t Is a land OF the dolce, and a goot
deal of the far nierte. You forget the haste o
the north and the rush of the west. The Vir
ginians are a different people from anybody
else, and seem to think that life was made fol
BILE something hangs about the figures seen or
the landings which Is not seen elsewhere, ant
.ne present, with Its hustle and enterprise, ha
III you are fond of such things make the &C
qua1ntance of Captain Clifford, of the steamer
Ariel, an old sailor who has been all over thu
world, and is the oracle of James river. He
pointed out TO me the historic spots, and made
what would otherwise have been a prosait
journey an excursion into antiquity. Some O
these localities are well known, others are not
For travellers from the north now or hereafter
visiting Old Point Comfort, via Richmond, 6
few items concerning these points may be in
teresting.
On the left bank of the river Just below Rich
mond, is the estate OF Powhatan, on a grassy
hill, where Smith and Newport visited the EN-
peror in 1907, and near which may still be
seen In rock on the shore the impress of gigan
tic footsteps. about five feet apart, known to be
those OF the god Okee, as he made an excursion
through old Virginia. There is sort of doubt
that the steps were his; if there is, anybody can
satisfy himself, as the marks are still there
Further down, ON the right bank. stands Amp
thill, the home of Archibald Carey, who was a
famous man in the revolution, and called Old
Iron for his resOlute character, if not from the
TACT that he had an iron foundry near his house.
AmptbiIl is fine specimen of old Virginia
architecture, and remember visiting it in the
civil war, and admiring its quaint carving and
cornices.
n little lower-passing over Drury's Bluff or
Fort Darling as too painfully modern-you
come To a locality which is among the most in
of Henrico, the second settlement in Virginia,
made four years after the founding of James
town. The river here makes q remarkable
bend, for, after winding around for seven miles
1t comes back TO within about one hundred
yards of the point where the bend begins. In
the neck of this loop was built the city of Hen
rico or Henricus, and palisade was erected
from river to river in front OF the town, with
another two miles long at a little distance from
1t, also from river to river-the object being
defence from Indian attack. The city was a
considerable place for these good old times for
1T had a church, storehOuse guardhOuses, a
house for the governor and no less than three
streets.a hundred feet beneath which now
passes the steamer Ariel.
This feat is effected by means OF a ship canal,
begun by Sir Thomas Dale in 1911, resumed by
then or since. SO that now the passage is easy
Tor the largest ships. 1t is rather curious as we
pass swiftly through the opening, with its alb
rupt cliffs right and left to feel that once city
rose in the air a hundred feet above, and that
there busy old Virginians, Gov. Dale and the
rest smoked their pipes and took their ease in a
spot far above the smoke stack of the steamer.
There was also another interesting resident of
this ancient city of Henrico-nO less person
Rolfe after her romantic affair with Capt. John
smith, VINO was supposed to be dead at the
TIME, anu as Role had plantation near the
especially as 1T was the residence of Sir Thomas
Dale, who had labOred long to convert her to
christianity, in which he succeeded. Her one
child, Thomas, was named after the knight,
and was probably baptized by the worthy Mr.
whitaker, Parson OF Henrico, and called the
q fnE ina ,Iace.
no doubt, in the church here, standing where
the ship canal passes through. ROlfe's planta-
ton, where he raised the first tobacco in Vir-
ginia, was at Narina, just below, and the site
can be determined without difficulty, as it was
at the old Henrico court housesa spot still easy
to ascertain.
The trend of the shore here is beautiful, and
1t is not to be wondered at that ROlfe and Dale
preferred to live in this lovely region instead of
the Misunderstanding vicinity of jamestown.
The fields stretch away from the margin in
perennial beauty, green with wheat or summer
foliage. Behind are the bluffs rising above the
level low grounds; and If the traveller is an i'm
ag1natlve person he may please himself by clos
Ing his eyes and fancying the young wife Poca-
hOntas wandering over the grass and under the
trees with her boy, one of whose descendants
was tobe John Randolph, of Roanoke. Accord
ing TO the chronicles of the time, she was happy
with her husband Rolfe, who is described as a
discreet gentleman of much commendation:'
or, at least, we have the testimony that they
"lived civilly and lovingly together" IT is said
of her, also. that she ''lOved her child dearly''
and unless her detractOrs in modern times can
acter OF PocahontaS as wife. mother, and Chris
tan woman must remain irreproachable.
Here and there are seen good examples of old
Virginia homes, but not so interesting as Shir-
ley, lower dOwn-time out of mind the home of
the Carriers one of the oldest and most respect
able OF Virginia families. 1t would be sufficient
10 illustrate them to say that Gen. Lees mother
was daughter of the house-literally, 1 think,
OF the Shirley house, too, as, if am not mis-
taken, she was born here.
Shirley is a beautiful place, rising from the
plum OF the river on the left. 1t is SO well cared
IOnt IL
est houses in Virginia. A pathway leads down
the grassy slope TO the bank, Overshadowed by
trees, and as the facade appeared and disap-
peared through an opening of the foliage q
white handkerchief waving from the portico
made friendly salute to some one.
Nearly opposite is Bermuda Hundred. the
third town established in Virginia 1t is still an
important landing and thriving locality. Be
war. Some melancholy monitors NAV be seen
there, as though stranded, with their white
awnings shading the decks and guns, ana Off
GERS afflicted 1T is said, with ennui, that toll
Ing their bells by way of salute as the steamer
Ariel passes is a relief to the dull hours of the
summer days.
From this point the current of the James
river, swollen by the tribute of the AppOmatox,
widens suddenly and assumes the proportion
OF narrow arm OF the sea. The banks, fringed
with trees before so near, recede into the dis
lance and you feel that you have entered the
true old Virginia. This was the land of the first
planters who were induced by the beauty and
tertilty OF the country to make their homes
mere; The great estates of old times all, or
many OF the localities and houses bear the same
names they bore nearly 800 years ago.
Among these is Berkeley, which the Oid-time
Nirginians called Barclay, as they call Derby
Darby and clerk clark. 1t was the scene or
the murder of the good Geo. Thorpe in the Indian
massacre OF 1922, when, in return for all his
beneiactions, these children of nature left him
lying dead and mutilated across his Threshold
Anerward Berkeley came into possession of the
Harrisons, an old and honorable family, OF
whom sprung Gen. VIM. Henry Harrison who
was born at Berkeley. Shirley and Rerkeley
are thus connected with two historic person.
ageS-Cen. Robert +. Lee, who bore in person a
marked reseIn biance to the Carriers and Gen.
Harrison, who added to his military distinction
the civil honors of the presidency.
lew miles from Berkeley, and still upon the
northern bank, stands WestOver, the ancient
seat of the Byrd family, illustrated in the eigh-
CANT old nabob Col. William Byrd, the author
OF "Mertone's MSS" He was one of the most
splendid figures OF that time, and may be taken
Is the type OF the eighteenth century planter
was wealthy, handsome, famous. and alto
gether must have enjoyed himself His por-
trait is still preserved, and lie is buried in the
garden at Westover beside his young daughter
Evelyn. who, ii Is said. died OF u broken heart
Inc legend Is that on q visit to Europe a young
Lord Peterborough fell deeply in love with her;
would not permit their union. In consequence
OF this disappointment he became Il priest il Is
said, and she pinned away and soon slept in the
garden of Westover
The old house is one of the most attractive on
James river, ana stands Immediately upon the
bank: The ancient front CLEANS through foliage
with Its rows OF windows and hone-like porticC
and IT Is not difficult to fancy wandering over
the fresh green sward the splendid figure oil
the famous Col. Byrd. in lace pOWter and sill,
stockings, and the slender form Of his beautiful
daughter Evelyn, whose portrait hangs beside
his own.