Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-03-08

A sudden impulse was given to the
wearing Of white dresses last summer by
! the development OF machinery in its ap-
plcaiiOn 20 fine white goods. and the pro-
| ductiOn of n new class OF white machine
! made mbr0idcries. Heretofore cmbrOi-
deTies had appeared in strips. and been
used in small quantities as trimming
| Embroidery in the piece had been rare
! ard expensive. only used for christening
robes. or by those who could afford the
| cost of an expensive washing" dress.
! But quite suddenly "all-oYer" embroi-
| deIy and "Rll-OyeT'' tucking-that is,
tucSing and embroidery covering the
| whole surfact-sprung into abundant
/ existence, displaying variety in patterns
and moderation in price. White dresses
| were made with whole fronts, side panels,
! or deep flounces of embroidery, the
BASQUE being cut OF the same decorative
| material, 81 that the entire dress seemed
! TO be Composed of needlew Ork-machine
4 needleW Ork 10 be sure, but the fleet was
! the same. The stimulus thus given ere
/ ated very active demand, which has
/ encouraged manufacturers TO increased
/ efforts. The new tucked and embroidered
/ white materials show increas hneness.
/ more delicate workmanship and better
/ taste in the selection OF patterns. Fine
! lawns and cam9rlcs ara TUCKED in clUs-
I tiers, rs we'll as In lines, which cover the
surface. the latter 50 minute that there
I are many grades between the first aud
I those that measure quarter OF an inch.
\ great many straight-tucked and
| strais skirts will be worn
during the coming summer. the b-lted
bodice Of tucking or embroidery to match.
CLOTH SUITS AND WRAPS.
The new est II dfeTn gowns are in light
( Vienna cloths, braided with a very mar
Il
edge, is highly effective aud does not tarn-
l~h. The combination IN color is quite
new and the effect peculiar, but very
god. The vest and panel at the left Is
covered with the br2itluz, the basque is
finished with three rows, which simply
form eH edge; the OiLcer's collar is braided
Ike the vest. The skirt is formed Of side
plaits in fine knife clusters, alternating
with broader ones, surmounted with a
short draped apron turned over upon the
side, and draped long al the back, A
small bonnet accompanies t0ls suit, the
crown OF braided clDth matching the
gown, t1e brim Of Wine-COlOred velvet. the
trimming group OF coppery-red feathers.
The "lrish" costume consists Of a dress
and cloak of dark green cloth in an in
visible stripe, the alternate stripe con-
tanning shades of brown and beige. The
vest, cuffs and panel at the left side are
OF soft beige satin radZinier laid in folds
a ld crossed at intervals bv diagonal bars
dark myrtle green silk, also laid in
folds, the end upon the hip passed through
mother of pearl bucl le. A cloak ac-
companies this dress, furnished with
removable hood, and lined all through
with beige silk. THIS clOalSis full, laid
/ in side plants, yet one of the most grace
I ful garments imaginable. II will fold
over from shoulder to shoulder, or one
side can be thrown back to show the lin
Ing. The new jackets are in li2ht, rather
rough cloths and seTgCs, both plain and
double breasted. Braiding, when it is
used, IS upon the front and upon the
standing military collar. The cut ana
mt are perfect. They are not deep, but
are even al round, only show
ing fullness in the form Of invert-
ed plaIts at the back, which lay
easily over the cushion placed inside II
i-hs5 Top Of the Skin, Of al tail9! made
gowns, and which Is supported by "sad-
die" belOw, and is not therefore felt as a
burden. The jackets are uniformly lined
Or faced with silk, the buttons alone be-
ing ornamantal. The newest Of these are
nut-sh2ped, and are q mixture OF OXidiZat
metal aud gilt; others arc Perfectly
formed horse shoes, with dark depressed
horn centres, and pearl or silver frames,
nailed in a perfectly natural manner.
For spring street wear, besides these
jackets, there are small cloth nantes in
beige shades, lined with silk and braided;
and for indoors, for young ladies, new
style Of JERSEY la red stockingette, pointed
in front, with q standing collar, and
small habit basque. The finish upon the
edge consists of small gold officers but
tons, currant-shaped. with pjn-nead tops,
which are highly effective. Upon the
standing collar and also upon the cuffs
are lines OF gold and red silk braid. The
- .F "a
wOrsted flannel in a coarse twill, with
hood. II is lined with red silk plush, and
| Is so wide as to IOld over from shoulder
TO shoulder. 1t is exactly what is needed
for evening wear at hotels, in country
hOlses or upon catching expeditions.
The hood is the monk shape, and the top
fastens down to form a unique head
dress.
The "Dolgourouki" is new carriage
wrap. 1t is named from the lady who first
ordered one of the kind, as the little man
tie lust described was named for the
Duchess of COnnaught. The "D1lgOu-
roukr' is made of the same material as
the COnnaught, but it is a long cloak with
back fitted into the waist, and sleeves
draped up with cOrnice tassels, and long
loops of satin ribbon, which form profuse
OrnamentatiOn in tire centre under styl-
ish hood. The sleeve In front forms a
double cape, showing the silk lining. The
whole effect is striking and very stylish,
but it is only suitable tor carriage wrap.
The pretty through wooden checks which
are so fashionable in England and Scot
land, have obtained much favor in Paris,
but they are not liked in this country.
Most Of the tailOr-made suits used mere
are worn by young women who want fine,
smooth cloths that closely define ths fig
ure. They are terribly afraid Of looking
stout, and viii not wear a coarse wool or
| a check that has tendency to give them
an appearance Of embOnpOint.
SPRING OUTDOOR GARMENTS.
A reaction has set In against the long
cloak as a dress garment, and the tide
has quite turned in favor OF the pretty
nantes, short on the back, and with
long ends in front. The original
feature OF these is that they are fitted
in at the back and held down
10 the waist by an interior belt, while the
old ones Of the same style, fashionable
many years ago, we're scarf shaped. One
! Of their merits is that they require but
! little material, and suit a greater variety
| Of persons than the long cloaks. They
are also ''dressy,' and easily made as
| part of costume, or en- suite, that is of
! the same material as the dress. Jackets
| are the only suitable addition to a tailor
/ made dress. The Newmarket, or ulster,
made in the simplest fashion, but OF soft,
pure materials and sIlk-iined, IS the
recognized garment for service and trav-
| cling. But spring silk, or silk and cash
| mere suits, pOngees, surabs-and, later,
! grenadines, muslins, lace over silk, and
| other summer tissues-may be finished
| and aTraYed as costumes by the addition
| Of little lace of rutfled mantelet
| For the spring many ladies are having
| them made of short lengths, or remnants
| OF rich silk satin, or soft figured brocade,
| with a border OF velvet, plush. or chenille
''leach" fringe. The lining may be fine far
mer's satin, which is warmer than twilled
| silk, and is now finished with such satiny
! smOOthness as to rival pure satin.
BEIGE AND BLUE.
Beige and blue are to be'very fashiona-
BILE this season. blue is q holiday color
and always a faYorite, but it has Of late
| years won place wider than ever or ac-
/ count Of the new and subtle shades de-
| veloped, the revival Of favorite ''old
| blues,' and the adapfability Of new ones
| TO a wider range of weareTs. Blue has
| usually been considered peculiarly youth
/ full. Ladies sensitive on the subject
/ thought they could not wear it after q
certain age, and to those to whom blue is
| becoming, the development Of toned blues,
/ such as smoke, gray blue, electric blue,
stone blue and others, prOiOngs the period
Of their wearing their favorite color, and