The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-10-11
FASHIONS AND FANCIES
Written and Prepared for the Journal.

Written and Prepared for the Journal.
Among the new wraps heraded by the fashion
authorities is the "Huguenotr cloak. 1t is of
cloth gathered full at the neck and falling
straight to the hem of the dress, with no shap-
ing to the figure and no aperture for the arms.
Its general appearance, according to an illustra-
tion is that of an overgrown petticoat tied
around the neck instead of the waist. But this
suggestiveness is probably offset by the superior
comfort of the garment as compared with the
arm-confning circular.
1t is, perhaps. too much to say that neatly fit
ting garments are the rule, but it is, at least,
true that misft dresses are seen far less fire.
quently than was the case even two and three
years ago. The prevailing fashion of tight
bodices and gove-ftting wraps has caused even
the cheap" dress-maker to give closer attention
to her art and to follow the lines of her custo-
mers' figures with some degree of accuracy. In
deed it is a matter of frequent comment that
the servant girl, who pays some ''modiste" in
an alley three or four dollars for making her
Dress not uncomonly secures as well fitting
gown does her mistress, who patronizes Mad
dame De Smythe, on fashionable thoroughfare
at five times the cost
The 'homespun" dresses have the disadvant-
ages of looking common" and of being inappro-
pirate for anything street wear or travelling,
and are also too heavy to be comfortable. A
woman in homespun dress with it's due supply
of Innings, its ''mattrass" and other appurten-
ances, and with long fur or cloth cloth cloak
over ALL will be likely to find pedestransm some
thing of effort. She can't hope, either. to rise
on angel wings to heavenly things while thus
attired
metropolitan authority on such matters an
nounces with due soemnity that instead of 5
o'clock high tea" the German ''kaffee klatch" at
now is in vogue both in New York and abroad.
There are intelligent and amiable people not
thousand miles from Indianapolis who have been
driven to the verge of crime as the consequence
of repeated requests to define the difference be-
tween coffee" and 'high tea" At both fes-
tivities tea and coffee served, and both take
place in the afternoon, that the distinction is
not discernible by the careless eye. This init
nation from trustworthy source that an hours
difference in the time is the distinguishing mark
should settle this important problem.
The Season" announces that entirely blue or
red collars and cuffs are considered especially
''unbecoming" or cloud" and the information
will be correct
Almost every imaginable style of bonnet
trimming is said to be authorized by professional
authority, but good taste. it would seem, should
draw the line at birds covered with cut jet or
pearl beads. Bonnets are not usually likeness
of anything on earth, whatever heavenly bodies
they may be thought to resemble, but a bead
bespanged bird is venturing too far into the
unknown and unknowable The sight is one to
IN m
Somebody has evolved the theory that pre-
mature gray hair is result of too much indoor
life, and women who would preserve the natural
color of their locks are advised to frequently
walk bare headed in the sunshine or, at least in
a strong light. The truth of this thing may be
easily tested by noting whether not farmers
and others following out door pursuits grow gray
early.
failing sources of inspiration to the masculine
joker, but as plain, solid fact with no joke
concealed about it. the head-gear of the ''aver-
age man" far exceeds in it's annual cost the
amount, expended by the average woman" for
millinery in the same length of time. With at
least two "Derbys' in year, the last looking
just like the first, ''ony more So" with one or
two straws, and, if he is elderly and dignifed, or
young and dude, as many silk plugs. the hat
bill of the man of the period would excite his
wrath, rather than his humor, were his wife the
purchaser Being his own, it is a horse of an
other color, to speak.
A large number of women, not, perhaps, in
| the front ranks of fashion, but moving not many
leagues in the rear smile serenely over the peri
odical announcement that an effort is being
made to revive the hoopskirt, the same state
ment being as invariably followed by he asser-
ton from some opponent of crinoline that the
attempt is failure, because women will not
wear hoops" AS matter of fact, the light wire
hoopskirts have never been entirely abandoned
since the first year Of their use. Manufactur-
ers and merchants will testify that there is
a steady, if limited, demand for the article,
especially in summer, when light draperies are
found to hang fat and fabby without such sup
partial support to heavy skirts and the effect,
when worn, varies so little from that created by
long bustles and voluminous draperies that the
difference is not noticeable. Only those writer's
who are ignorant of facts or whose ideas of Grin
oline are drawn from the exaggerated styles Of
twenty years ago will venture to say that hoops
are not worn
The fashion authorities kindly tender the as
surance-repeated regularly each season-that
black will still be worn. AS if every woman did
not know of her own inner consciousness that
the favorite hue with great number, whatever
may be the gayer colors which prevail. Unlike
many other colors, black dress may be made
suitable for any occasion. Even if of rich
material, it may be plain and inconspicuous; on
the other hand it may be made as elegantly at
tractve as any taste can desire. To say that
black will not be worn is absurd; to announce
that it is permissible is superfuous
Odds and Ends.
New York Mail and Express.
There is no doubt of 1.-THE new cloth bonnets
are beautiful, especially those of doeskin and
l. IL = IL. 4