davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-05-02
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Wriftea for The Herald By leone"
COMBINATIONS.

A favorite way of combining two
fabrics IN every part of the dress Is
that of putting q single width of
figured goods down the back and
the front OF the skirt while the
sides are OF plain goods, laid IN
pleats toward the front, and q full
breadth Of this plain fabric is placed
each side of the figured goods in the
back; the three back breadths then
hang straight and are gathered to
the belt, while over them as drapery
are two pointed wing-like pieces of
plain material, and there are short
Lambrequin like draperies on the
sides and front. The basque OF such
dress should be of plain goods,
with shaped piece Of the figured
stuff set in the front and back, and
arranged in folds or pleats on the
collar and cuffs. These V shaped
pieces are inserted, not set on, and
are especially becoming to those
who have short waists.
New costumes seen in New York
give the effect of rich materials very
simply draped, yet made bouffant
by cushing and bustles sewed in and
on to the back breadths. The Oh
ject is to do away with pleated skirts
for all but very simple dress, and
series Offl0unces have also lost favor.
Instead of pleated wool skirts, the
preference now is for the effect of a
plain skirt given by straight
breadths of the light wool stuff,
lined, and attaching them to the
false skirt under the draperies; this
plainneSs may extend all around the
false skirt, but is more often only
on the front and sides, while the
back is laid in some long folds of
drapery that is not defined enough
to be called pleats. If this lower
skirt is plain, it falls upon box
pleated depassant on the lower skirt.
The Apron drapery that finds
most favor for simple,lresses is made
to fall in two or three long straight
folds down the left side and to curve
upward very high on the right
where it joins the back drapery; it's
beauty consists in the full long cur
YES that begin ON the right side in
pleats sewed in with the belt, but
disappearing as they fall into folds
on the left side. This leaves a large
part of the lower skirt in view on the
left side which may be trimmed
across with rows of galloon, or else
left quite plain. The back fullness
is then quite straight, and massed in
Two large pleats, or else it is bout
family pnffed at the top, and hangs
straight below. Almost all back
lraperies now cover the false skirt
rom top to bottom, and are there
ore closely sewed down the sides,
10 matter how much they may be
there. But it is more sty-
ish to trim the back fnlIness across
he ends only, thus surah drapery
las a wide hem and three tucks
cross it, silk back breadths have a
ow of wide galloon like a border,
nd wool drapery has several rows
4 braid across above the hem at {
lie foot. Another favorite arrange
nent OF the back drapery is to pleat
ii the top and right side of the
traight breadths into the belt, leav-
ng pointed drapery that is very
ull at the top, and may be allowed
o form single burnoOse fold at the ,
ngle of the breadths.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-05-02
than CrOeSus

Now the only Crosus that envy is he who is reading n
better book than this PHILIP GILBERT HAMERroN
:" You ought to sell ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND sets of
the In six months and will do if the reading
to understand what doing for the intelligent masses n
GREGORY, Prest Lake Forest University, Ill
You do tantaize Such an abundance of ,he do
fio' io" and no means to il. any cr
L - snFe up $500 intending to buy clothes ncss so
~ send Tort *."-E BoYNToE, Calstoea Cal
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-05-02
Railroads.
CUMBERLAND VALLEY RAILROAD.

CUMBERLAND VALLEY RAILROAD.
On and after Sunday March Is, 1855, trains
Will run as follows: STANDARD Time.)
EASTWARD.
Fast Mail leaves Martinsburg at so a IN.
Bedington 5 OF, Falling Waters s 10, williams
port Station %, Hagerstown so, Bhambers-
burg 50, Carlisle 10 49, arrive at Harrisg IL Is.
Mail Express Train leaves Martinsburg at
00pm. Bedington 5 II Falling Waters 327, Will
Transport Station 40, Hagerstown 70 Cham
bersburg %, Carlisle & 20 arrive at Harrisburg
at 10. WESTWARD,
Accommodation leaves Harrisburg at 90
m, Carlisle Z e5 Chambersburg Is, arrives at
Hagerstown at 10 o., Williamsport Station 10
40, Falling Waters 10 IS, Bedington ii OF, Mar
tinsburg II 20.
Mail leaves Harrisburg at % p m, Carlisle
50, Chambersburg 10, arrive at Hagerstown
at OO, Williamsport Station 26, Falling Wa
tiers 80, BedingtOn IS, Martinsburg 90.
H. Il. GERHARDT. Agt. J. F. BOYD, Supt.
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-05-02

Landlady Ito lodger): "Beg
pardon, sir; did ] understand asyou
was a doctor of music 2" Ledger:
" | am, ma'am. Why" Landlady:
swell, sir, my Billy ave just bin and
broke his concertina, and | thawt as
'ow should be glad to put a hold
job in yer way"
Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-05-02
Cheap eheleeBooks


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The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19
Out of Work.

NEW YORK, Nov. 14.-The San says
About 1000 workmen will be thrown
out of work tonight by the stoppsge of
work in the cigar factories of Straiton s.
Storm. The firm has had no trouble
with its employees tor more than a year
and its shop was recently organized as a
union shop, but the boycott put on
its cigars nearly year and
half ago has not been taken off. Geo.
Storm recently addressed leading union
men at work in his factories, members,
he says, of both international and pro-
gressive unions, asking them If they
knew why the boycott continued, and
they replied that they were as much in
the dark as he, and that they would try
and find out. AS they did not succeed
the firm determined to find out by fore
ing Its employees to personal interest in
the matter. sour men must
find out why they are being
punished by their own friends" John
Str6iton said last night, 1--WE pay the
highest wages and employ only union
men. We can afford to suspend work
now for we have large stock on hand,
but we would not suspend if we were
not boycotted. The suspension will
be probably continued few weeks, but
it will be longer if we do not get some
good reason for the boYcotting. If the
Knights of Labor are at the bottom of it,
we would like to know it and also why
they. are harming their fellow-Workmen.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

The long.vexed question whether the
decline in the value of silver as compared
with gold has been due to an increase il
the general purchasing power of gold
or to decrease in the general purchss
ing power of silver, is discussed by the
London Economist in the light Of q val.
liable record of prices preserved by the
Indian government offices in London.
The facts correctly stated are very strik.
ing. Gold in Great Briton will now buy
nearly 80 per cent. more wheat than Il
would buy in 1870, but silver in India
will buy about 80 per cent. more wheat,
Republican.
The veracity of our neighbor cannot
be questioned, but, then, China Is g long
way of, and it is hard to get at the COL
lateral. We remember that trade dol
lar" was manufactured once on a time
for the benefit of the almond-eyed celes-
uals, but somehow they never got
farther west than San Fran.
cisco, and the seventy five cent bogus
dollar was circulated freely at par, but
when the American people. one bright
morning, went to the bank, they could
not exchange this dollar for more than
its bullion value. Pephaps the expert.
ence with the trade dollar will be
repeated with its lineal descendant
of to-day. However that may be, we
set 1t down this way: Our government
Is strong enough, and rich enough, and
should be honorable enough to exchange
Its dollars, one for the other, whether
gold, silver, or paper, When Uncle
Sam writes across the face of q coin
this is one dollar" then it should pass
for zone dollar" in any market on
Gods footstool. Until We come to that,
the people won't be satisfied. The
truth is, you cannot at the treasury of
the United States exchange an American
silver dollar for an American gold dol
lar and that state of affairs ought not to
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

NEW HAVEN, Conn.,, Nov. lion
the night of November I'd. Mrs. Bertha
Tearnan, the wife of German wood
turner living at 112 Oak street, this city,
was delivered of very handsome male
child. Many of the neighbors came 10
see it and admired it. Two days after
the child was born Miss Mary Cresgan,
middle-sged nurse, called upon Mrs.
Tearnan, and proposed to her that she
give the baby to certain rich people who
were childIess and wanted an heir TO q
large estate. The mother at that time
was suffering greatly and was delIrl-
GUS. The nurse offered Mrs. Tear
nan $40 and said that che could
see the child as often as she
desired. The mother consented to this
arrangement aud was told to say, sho uld
any one ask about the child, that II was
away that night. Since then the mother
has not seen If, and has longed for the
little one, aud constantly reb lkes herself
for her part ia the strange case. The
case has been placed in lawyers hands.
The gentleman was very reluctant 70 al
vulge the progress made In ferretipg out
the mystery. He was free 10 denounce
what he termed the child stealing. He
gave il as his opinion that the parties
who had the child were of high social
standing and belonged IN New York.
On Monday evening Mrs. Tearnan signed
9 paper in lawyers Office, which, it is
thought, was q release Of all claims TO
the child. For this she Was paid $500
The birth has been properly returned TO
the Office OF the registrar Of vital stats
tics, but at the probate court the papers
necessary to tbs adoption of such child |
had neither been issued or asked for. |
Hfiss Creegan. the nurse who negotiated !
the purchase of the child. refuses to talk,
save to say that she has done nothing IL
Ia~al
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19
Trunk LIae r. r.

NRw YORK. Nov. 1a.-Durine ne Ian
two days material progress has been
made by the officers of the Trunk Line
r. X. towards the establishments 81 more
amicahle relations between the several
companies. The standing Committee OF
Trunk Lines which has been in session
in Commissioners Fink's Office has also in
connection with the western roads, ar
ranged for an advanced rate in both
freight and passengers. The most i'm
portant decided upon is the recognition
OF the Baltimore s. Ohio as a New York
road, and its claim for percentage of
the passenger traffic from this city has
been allowed. Its arrangements for
reaching this city have not been an
nounced, but il is understood that for
the present, at least. it will connect over
the Pennsylvania railroad. The passen-
ger pooling contract has been completed
and ratified aud is now being signed by
the presidents, all but two had signed
yesterday; within a few days rates will
| be advanced to the basis of $2S between
| New York and Chicago. It is under
| stood that the several local ticket offices
here will be consolidated, so that roads
will be represented. In each Office ORDER
will be issued to advance west bounC
| freight rates November 18th to the bash
| of seventy-1ve cents per 100 pounds
from New York TO Chicago sixty cent
for second-clsss, forty-fve cents TO
third, thlrty-f1ve cents for fourth ant
twenty-five cents for special.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

ToRoNro. Nov. l4.-Ehs Hal hrs The
following special from WInnepegs dated
the 18th: A special MESSENGER passed
Port Arthur this afternoon on his way
to Regina, bearing the governor gen
erals warrant for the execution Of Riei
at Regina, Monday next. He VIII reach
Regina Sunday morning. All prepare
tions for the execution have been COM
pleted. Riel was made aware some
days ago that the sentence or the
court would be carried into effect
The Monday after the trst reprieye
he got 1t into his head he would be sent
to pen and h.s spiritual advisor could DO
nothing with him, his manner becoming
insolent and at the same time exceeding
" offensive, but when the news was
broken to him Monday evening last that
he must prepare for death he sobered
down. It may be well to add that none
of the alleged interviews said 70 have
been held with him lately ever took
place and that correspondents OF
certain American and Canadian pa
pers have been running bogus news
out for weeks back. Riers relations and
friends at st. Vital, five miles from here,
know that Monday will end all. They
are naturally very much broken down.
His poor old mother became crazed
some months ago, during the rebellion,
50 that today she Is unable TO realize
the dreadful position in which her son
is placed. Joseph, his brother, who is
most respectable man, is in q dreadful
state OF mind. Riel's wife, whom he did
not treatwelI during the rebellion, leaving
her exposed to danger and hunger is re-
| ported 70 be nearly heart broken, but
| priests are with her and other relatives
and everything that can be done to COM
fort them will be done, Riel's family
have from the first secuted the idea that
the prisoner was insane. They say he
had decisions on religion and on the
| subject of his own importance, but on
all matters he was not only sane but ex
| ceedingly intelligent and clever. They
have been deeply panied at the publica-
| ton of bogus interviews.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19
An Orderly Man.
"
Where's my hat?"

where's my hat?'
who's seen my knife?"
who turned my coat wrong side
out and slung it under the loungeP"
There you go. my boy. When Won
came into the house last evening YOU
flung your hat across the room, Jumped
out of your shoes and kicked fem
right and left wriggled out of your
coat and gave it a toss, and now Won
are annoyed because each article hasn't
gathered itself into s chair to be ready
for you when you dress in the morn
ing.
Who cut those shoe-stringsp You
did 1t, to save one minute's time in nm
tying them! Your knife is under your
bed, where it rolled when YOU hopped.
skipped and jumped out of your trous-
Your collar is down behind the
bureau, one Of your socks on the foot
of the bed, and your vest may be in the
kitchen wood-box for all you know.
Now, then. my way has always been
the easiest way. l had rather fling nv
nat down than hang it up; I'd rather
kick my boots under the lounge than
place them in the hall; I'd rather run
the risk OF spelling new coat than to
change it
l own right up To being reckless and
slovenly, but, ali, mel haven't had to
pay for it ten times overl Now set
your foot right down and determine TO
have order. 1t is trait that can be
An orderly man can make two suits
OF clothes last longer and look better
than sloyenly man can do with four.
Can save an hour per day over the Tnsn
who filings things helter-skelter. BE
stands twice the show to get a situa-
lion and keep it, and i've times the
show to conduct business with profit.
An orderly man viii be an accurate
nan. If he is q carpenter every joint
VIII mt If he IS aturner his goods will
look neat II he IS q merchant his
BOOKS viii show neither blot nor error.
An orderly man is usually an economi-
al man aud always q prudent one. If
Iou should ask me how to become rich
should answer: ..3e orderly-be ac- |
'urata- ',-D etrolt Free Press.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

Henry Ward Beecher evide ntly be-
lieves there ought to be a condition
called purgatory, If there is none. Lis.
ten TO what this great theological ramb.
Ter has to say on this point:
al hope there Is some intermediate
ground, or If there be not, a graded
heaven, In which man shall have some
opportunity of unfolding; for as men
live so they will die, and many of them
Will need good deal more of iIIumina-
ton and good deal more practice be-
fore they are fit to be associates in the
general assembly of the church of the
First Born. It is said that If a man
simply has faith In Christ that will save
him. Well, yes, that will save him in
one sense-it may keep him from ami
hilation; II may carry him over the abyss
of death and give him another school
ing beyond. But that salvation which
consists in joining the great army of the
pure and the noble. don't think that
every man that is saved so as by fire''
necessarily joins at once in that great
ASSEMBLY.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

WICHITA, Kans., Nov IA special
to the Eagle from Cantonment announ-
ces the death of the noted and cruel
Cheyenne chief Stone Calf, who dec
yesterday at his camp near Cantonment,
of spinal meningitis. Stone Cali was
widely known and influential with the
tribe of which he was the principal chief
he was the leader IN the troubles last
spring, always lived In remote parts OF
the reservation, and never obeYed the
agent If he coRld help 1t. He was ter
ror to the cattle men and previous TO the
annulling OF the grass leases, regularly
raided private herds with his band. He
led in the outbreak of 1874, at which
time he took captive two white girls by
the name of German who it will be re-
membered were afterwards delivered to
the United States authorities after suit
fering every possible indignity at the
hands of the red whelp," but now be is
a good Indian.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19
soIdter,s HoUoa

WASHINGTON, d. e., Nov. 13.-The an.
nual report of the president OF the board
of commissioners of the Soldiers Home
is received, covering the period from
October 1st, 1884, to September 30tb, 1885;
The disbursements during the year were
over $243, 46S, including $72, 523 expend.
ed for the new annex building and for
other permanent Improvements. One
hundred and nInety.two discharged sol.
diers recovered their original admission
TO the Home during the year.
Sixty-two of these had served twenty
or more years as enlisted men. The re-
naming 100 were entitled to admission
by reason of disabilities incurred In the
service.
given period, seek the benefits of the
home directly after leaving the service,
Is very small percentage OF those dis
charged from the army in the same peri
cd under circumstances which appear
TO give them the right to those benefits.
In the year ended June 30th, there were
1873 soldiers discharged from the
army for disability, and vet
only "a were received at the home. THIS,
says the report, is somewhat significant
IN view of the fact that
large numbers of those disabled must,
after few years at most, seek an asy-
lum somewhere, and the Soldiers
Home Will undoubtedly have received
and maintained the greater number of
of those who become unable to make
living for themselves There has been,
says the report, a very great increase in
drunkenness amongst the inmates
during the year, the cause for which
is laid at the door of the existing law
for the disposition of the inmates. About
one-tenth of the pensioners assign their
pensions to relatives; the other nine
tenths, on whose account more than
1000 is paid quarterly to the treasurer
of the home, are permitted 70 draw small
sums from time TO time, while the larger
portion remains undrawn. So long ae
they continue to be inmates of the home
this fund, the report says, becomes |
q good basis for credit at grog shops |
and is q constant temptation to those |
who are easily influenced, and in many /
instances, no doubt. the possession OF the |
money, which must be given up TO the /
pensioner when he is discharged. be- /
comes the sole object in leaving the /
home. In 9 few days the money Is /
and the commissioners are /
asked 20 admit . destitute old soldier TO /
he benefits of the home. There are actual |
eases of this description in the aims
house IL this city. Such says the report.
e the effect Of Law which was formed
md passed under circumstances which
:reated q morbid sentiment IN
sehaH Of the psnsIoned soldier. II
s conceived 20 be impossible
o represent the facts 70 Congress IN
Iuch light rs viii procure remedial
epislatfon, sad the commissioners are
compelled. in defense of the Interests Of
be Home, 70 FIX limit 60 the Number
{ admissions from such causes, and TO
leFmif the pengioner 70 eBjoY his liberty
, Gen. Sheridan. president pf the board
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19

Ii. Z. Norton accompanied by "hIs
man Friday" NJ. Bndsall, made the
Democrat a pleasant call this week. He
paid up his bill, ordered his paper
stopped and gave US to understand that
ne had gone entirely back upon the
whole concern. In view of his attempt
to rule or ruin the party in this county,
q greater compliment than this could not
have been paid the Democrat A pre-
tended Democrat who sets himself up
IN opposition to the expressed wishes of
the party and publicly boasts that he
viii have things his own way or bust the
party, will find but very little comfort in
reading the Democrat, and we are not
that such should order their
papers stopped. The Democrat, however,
Will make its appearance as usual each
week, and Will continue to work for the
good OF the entire party without regard
TO the wishes of any self-constituted
bosses
Our friend Of the Democrat seems to
have way of expressing himself that is
not difficult to understand.
The Emporia weekly news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1881-1889, 1885-11-19
RIef to Hang


QUEBEC. Nov. 12.-The briefness oil
the respite accorded to Riel has been &C
cepted here as meaning that his doom is
sealed. The TWO principal French pa
pers of this city, L'Evenement and
L'Electeur, which voice the feelings and
opinions of the French Canadisn popu-
latIon of both parties, are agreed that
Riei will be hanged on Monday next.
HIS LAST HOURS.
NEW YORK, Nov. IA Montreal
special to the Post says: 1t is known
that special messenger is on the way
TO Regina with the official document
from the governor general ordering
Sheriff Chaplain TO proceed with the ex-
ecution of Riel. Meanwhile, ac-
cording to communication
received by Bishop Granden, RIel
passes the greater portion of his
time ia prayer and meditation. He has
written farewell epistles to his wife and
children and to q sister who resides in
this city within the last few days Ex-
ira precautions have been taken to pre-
vent any surprise The guards have
been doubled, and mounted patrol Is
always on duty. None but the priests
and commanding officer of the mounted
police are permitted within the cell.
The cell he occupies is SIX feet four by
four, the only articles of furniture being
q small iron bed and low chair. he is
an early riser, and is invariably up and
dressed before reTeilIe At six O'Clock.
he scarcely completes his toilet when
he sinks down on his knees beside his
bed aad remains tRandxed like statue
for an hour in prayer.