Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1885-11-22
BREAD MAKING.
A Chicago Chef Discourses Upon the
Bread Made by Housewives end
Bakers.

Bread Made by Housewives and
Bakers.
There has been great Improvement
In American cookery in al branches in
the last fifteen years." said high
salarie chef to repOFter. II an ro-
ferrlng. of course. to hoeel and restsu-
rant cooking and bakers goods. not to
the od prepared for family tables !
am inclined tn think. however, that the
ave age family table spread with bet
ter-prepared vi nnds since attendance al
coo&Ing-s hools became fashionable and
cook ng became recognized As an All
and given place among accomplish.
ments.
The most noticeable improvement in
what may be called Plblic cookery. in
my opinion, is in bread-making. l
mean the bread made by professional
bakers for sale. This improvement
dates from the Centennial Exposition.
and is due to the bread exhibited by
Austrian bakers and the methods
learned from them. Previous o that
bakers br ad' was reprosch to the
hotel. restaurant or boarding house.
Now the old-time bakers loaf is not to
be found except in very isolated COM
muni,ies and in portions of the south.
In some of the larger Southern cities,
even. it is impossible to buy loaf Of
sweet, well bread at any bake
shop. The amount of raised bread used
tn oh the South. however, is propOr-
tiona,ely small. Hot corn br :ad--either
the simIle mixture of meal and water
wi h a pinch of salt called 'pone, and
which is o tOOthsome. corn bread made
with eggs and milk, or hot Biscuits
by the genuine Southerner regarded Is
the staff of life.
.rhe improved bakers loaf is Of
many kinds. There is the light. spongy
French bread with its crisp. crack
hing crust, Vienna bread closely re-
sembling it. There is milk bread which
crumbles IN the mouth. and . square
loaf called homemade bread white
and light, but without the sweetness
and nutritive qualities Of the genuine
loaf made at home. There is graham
bread and the rye brod' so extensively
eaten by Germans and Scandinavians;
there are fancy loaves sprinkled with
poppy seed for Hebrew customers. and.
in its season, passover bread There
are rolls and buns innumerable. New
England brown bread is likewise to be
found. but it is very different article
from the brown bread served fresh and
warm at Sunday New England break
fasts. You know the regulation New
England breakfast is composed OF fish
balls, baked beans. brown bread and
Indian corn pudding The bread is de-
livered hot by the baker in the morn
ing. The pot nf beans snd the pudding
have stood in the oven all night. That
was the bv-gone breakfast Of New In
gland folks, and many genuine Yankees
who boast of their blue blood and q
lines .e reaching back to the Mayfow.
er sit down to just this breakfast every
Sunday morning.
Even light biscuit. which can be
dampened and rewarmed. are to be
found IN the bake-sh"p.
Although the bakers bread OF to-
day is so far superior to what it was
ten years ago, none is produced here to
tttutA lIt sCluIhCi ulou.
The baking processes in this country
are not the same. and Austrian grain |,
better than ours The bread made
from it is . most delicious in tht
world.
The Austrian cakes and other co.,
fections are not equal 20 ours. Chicago
factory pies are good, but the pic is dis
tinctiyely American. Bread max ing, tC
my mind. is the most important thing
in cookery. In regard to this subject
believe l verge upon crankiness- The
nutritive qualities of wheat-the phos
phates-are the same IS those of meat
These phosphstes are phosphoric acid,
with lime, potassa, iron, and magnesia.
In the ordinary processes OF milling.
some of these constituents are sub
tracted. The best hour i, made from
wheat from which the outer b an GOV.
erIugs have oeen removed. A good
flour must contain all the nutritive
qualities Of the grain and none Of the
sIlicious coverings. .Bolted flour. mixed
with bran, Is often palmed off upon tht
purchaser for graham hour. Bread
made from this kind Of -four is only til
for the stomachs of herbiverous ami.
mails The flour in the bread consumed
Almost entirely BY Americans is moi
the best Why? because il
is strictly n fine, whits
flour which has been robbed Of part Of
its phosphates and gluten 1t is main.
" composed Of star b. The European
peasants habituslly eat bread made
from the whole wheat grain. and al
other classes, especially in France,
make large use of it. Il will not be
many years till this kind Of flour will
find favor in America, for no people
are quicker to make use OF Whist is
good t. eat than Americans"
How do YOU determine whether or
not flour is of good quality7' was
asked
There is positively no rule to de-
pend upon. 1t is an education Of the
eye and the sense of touch. Flour that
has blush ting is never good II it is
damp and cakes in the hand it is poor.
too. If You take up handful of good
iour and then throw it dowE. you will
find your hand covered with its fine
dust. but separated by the cresses Of
the lines of your palm.
1T is a common fault in small fami-
lies to buy too much flour at one
time. 1t becomes nusty. end they
cant understand why the bread
is not good. II the barrel or bin has
not been carefully scalded. too. before
putting in the last purchase. infnitesi-
NAL atoms of mold are apt to be sdher-
ing 70 the sides. The smallest particles
of mold soon impregnates the whole
quantity.
Il believe in every household making
its own bread and not depending on
the baker. A good home bread maker
will alsc make her own yeast. Nearly
every killful housewife has recipe for
yeast-mahing which she thinks superior
TO any other. Many excellent cooks
spoil bread in the oven, which would