Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1885-08-27
IN THE HIGHLANDS.
SIGHTS AND SCENES IN MID
LoTHIAN'S HEART.
from oban to Aberdeen--In Edinburgh
with, Sir Walter Scott and john
Z - Knox rs Guftles.

| week, since l was starting from Oban fol
the capital Of the Highlands. Up to In
verness there was the same winding
through beautiful lochs, past castles, anC
forts and interesting scenes in the lives OF
great men. From distance, admired
Inverness As we sailed into the city VIC
gained good view OF the large castle
with its many guns as though protecting
the city, and warning any invading foe.
Then, too, we could see the cemetery,
noted for its picturesque site. After land
ing and being safely quartered in the
Royal Hotel, (Which place would only
advertise as warning to travelers) we
surveyed the city which Prof. Blackie so
highly praises, came back, paid our bills
and left, wondering where is its beauty
in comparison with scores of other places
we have seen. When Aberdeen was fair
ly viewed l with my companion, pro
nounced it city of beauty; so there we
stopped, visited its chief places, examin.
ed with admiration the grand Highland
stock-horses, hogs and cdttle-there on
exhibition and left satisfied that when it
came to a question of dom este animals
land, may add, Strawberries the Scotch
surpass us conceited Americans. Passing
by Dundee, and in sight of that unfortu
nate "Tay Bridge then through Stirling
without stopping, we reach Auld Reekie
And what a cityl OH it is beautiful.
Here, to me, is the ideal place. We had
saved the good wine until the last, and
now am glad Of it. know / will fail
to give you u perfect idea of what have
seen here and my eyes are still feasting
upon; still we can go together along the
streets, into palace and house of note and
it may be you will be given faint
glimpse of some.
Edinburgh has everything to commend
1t to visitor. 1t is a city of many parts
varied as is no other city of which | am
aware. lere you are living at one time
amidst modern works, the next moment
you are back in old castles and homes;
you can be in the midst of crowded
thorughfare and in ten minutes be upon
q summit free from habitation. Here you
are in the mountains and yet on the sea
side, here in the city and yet in the
country. And all have their beauties and
eXccllencies. | have not found place
where you get half as much for your
money and trouble as you get here.
am perfectly satisfied and show my salts
faction by abiding quite Il while in the
haunts of Sir Walter and amidst the
scenes of much of Queen Marys life. The
first thing that presents itself to the visi-
.or is Prince Street. 1t is an avenue sur
beautiful. One seems to realize
r6aS his hiae eyS T4Re sfatd "a td ~ ana 10 ihe
fully built row of gray stone buildings on
one side, on the other park beautified
by flowers and lawn and made the more
attractive by bronze and marble statues
of Edinburgh's great and good men. Sir
Walter Scott is the most highly hOnored.
How fitting it is that at the noblest place
on thi. street, Sir Walter Gothic spired
monument with its many pinnacles,
among which are niched so many of the
characters of his work, should be placed.
The whole is a study for hours. Under
meath the dome sits Sir Walter in his
plaid, with his head upon his hand as
though in deep thought, while Mazda, his
faithful dog, rests at his feet.
In the various inches of the pinnacles
are Elie Deans and the good sire, lovely
Ellen of the Lake and the Knight; Meg
Merrillces seems to be enjoying herself as
she stands there looking upon the park
below, while Queen Mary and John Knox
get along very peacably together; IvanhOe
with his shield and spear stands as ty-
pical knight, while Old Mortality stands
not far Off. These and many more are
individual pieces of statuary, chiseled by
the best sculptors. Each one tells its own
tale very well but you appreciate it the
better, the more you know of Sir Walters
works. Whoeverhas read the Heart Of
Mid Lothian" must have been charmed
with the lovely Jeanie, her sister and
father. This is their home. To-day
stood upon the large heart which marks
the spot where the house stood. At a
distance is the place where Eflie met her
lover and the scene is so vivid that can
almost see the grave sister walking along
High Street. After looking at this stat
ue l could see her the better. Out from
the city is the school-room of Reuben
Butler; just beyond, the Portland Hills,
where the dear bard so often walked. and
over there we see the very
sands are seen where the master of Raw
enswood died Then with little strain of
the eye we see ruins of the old chapel, so
well described in the Heart of Mid 10th
ian
Coming back from this Queens Drive"
we reach Holyrood Palace and there live
by the side of Sir Walter as he tells us of
the banquet in the long art gallery whose
walls are lined with pictures of the an
cient kings, and of the scenes he draws
there in Waverley. There, too, we see
where Mary lived, stormed and suffered.
1t seems that "Jingling George" wei.
comes us and offers to lead us to the
Hospital where we could almost see Nigel
and Richard Morriplies. | will write in
another letter of Mary and Holyrood for
spent much time there in her rooms.
We cannot let go Sir Walter, so still
holding in mind the Heart of Mid-LQth-
ian, we go to the grass market, that place
where the hundreds of Scots worthieS
suffered at the hands of prelatic persecu.
! tors in the sixteenth century. The place
where the old gibbet stood is marked by
circle enclosing cross. Just opposite
up to 1874 stood the house in front OF
which Captain Porteous was hanged on /
dyer's pole.
Then crossing into New Edinburgh VI
Castle Street we come to the house WHERE
most of the Waverleys were written
Here in truth, that incident occurred
which is mentioned in the Bride of Lam
mermoor' where the faithful Caleb ex
cused the non-appearance of dinner by
the false report of SCOT falling down the
chimney.
Coming down from Castle Street W,
| get another view of the Gothic Monu
ment The eye never tires of looking a
it and studying the figures.
After Scott comes Knox; both granC
christian men, both advanced the cause o.
Christ in different spheres. The one wa
| quiet, the other stormy.
Five minutes walk from my hotel i