Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1884-1886, 1885-07-24
THE WICHITA DAILY
.ChfNESE-CooEf2a-
CUISINE OF THE MoNcoLlAN RES.
rAURANTs OF NEW YORK CITY.
Dining In Genuine Oriental Style-Ths
Various Courses-Cost Of Good
Dinner-Ths Element Of Sur
prise-Slmplicity.
Twone Chin Foo = chicseo Newa.l /

prise-Slmpltclty.
Wong Chin Foo . Chicago Newsl
hsths lset two yssn New York fashion
ntb tdeiety lbs calttySted . new Grass
c1ei&ienidhgs and eedkating John China-
nan. Every church pattpni1si by the
creme do Il creme has its Chinese
class, its Chinese teachers. its Chi
nese night-schooL Like most craxss, IL
accomplishes ut little in the way sought
1t has done much, however, in turning At
tention to Chinatown and in making known
many things that heretofore were Celestial
mysteries. Among these is the Mon&olian
restaurant 1t is safe TO say that in 1880 not
more than q hundred New Workers had
ever dined in orisntal style. In 1885 the
number is far up among tho thousands.
Tho average American, when he first ap-
proaches the Chinese table, does 30 in fear
and trembling. Vague presentiments Of
ragouts OF rats, mayonnaisss Of mice, and
similar Injuries float through his mini.
Nine times out Of ten he leaves the table
with tbs conviction that he has learned
something, and that the almond-eyed sons
Of the queue are the best cooks in ths world.
So be goss again. and with him brings two
or three inquisie1vS or adyD1trous friends.
There ara six C6ssse 'rAtausnts proper
in the Mongolia iettlsuent Each is
famous for son,s dish or style Of cooking.
The Delmonico Of the number is Yu-Ung-
Fang -Lau, at IA Mott strssk Here repair
Canton importers and Hong Kong mer-
chants from Frisco. flush gamblers and
wealthy laundrymsn. All Of the restau-
rants are run on the Same plan. A plain
wood floor, swept and scrubbed hourly till
it fairly shines; simple pine or walnut
tables, small sto,ls crimson banners and
notices on tbs walls, and . lavish display
Of curious porcelain vessels in racks AMI
stands characterize ono and all
You have never dined, reader, under
such au'piceA With two friends you en-
ter Yu Un2's and perch on a stool near a
large square table the next moment the
attendant has put down in front OF you a
tea pot filed with fresh, boiling tea, a tea
cup one-third the siz, OF those used by
Americans, two ebony chop sticks q porce-
lain spoon. a tiny liqueur bowl, and a saucer
filled with chocolate fluid called se-yu.
This is hybrid between salt and dilute
Worcestershire sauce. From its name
comes thu familiar British term SOY"
The first course is Geld rosst chicken,
served with picked psrfumed turnip. Tho
desh is tender, snow-whits and free from
sauce. 1t is cut into small pieces, but t hese
are arranged SO as to preserve the outline OF
the fowl You seize piece with your chop
sticks, dip it in the sauce, and then eat it in
solemn silence.
The next course is fresh fish, steamed,
boiled, or friel whole and covered with .
dark and very aromatic sauce. With it Is
served a bowl heaped to overlooking vita
rice II is cooked as only tho Chinese can
leach grain soft and tender but al tinct
from its fellows Next appears a bowl OF
chicken SOUP on whose surface floats few
thin slices of some green vegetable Then
follow roast duck with picked carrot, chow
chop-sue "a ragout ( chicken liver. lean
pork, bamboo-tip, celery, bean-shoots and
onion). dried f.h, steamed chopped pork
macaroni and chicken. and dainty dump
lings filed with spaced hashed meats.
With the foods ara served tiny pitchers Of
liQueurS One is a brown r.cs arrack. the
second q date brandy. and tho third an
orange gin. The nearest approache to these
in the American BARRON are Batavia mr.
rack. pear brandy and green curacao All
tho dishes ara we'll cooked and ssrvei, and
all are novelty to the most blase gourme.
The made dishes especially are now AMI
strange. " ~ -
The next surprise b the bin. Ths same or
an equivalent dinner at an average res.su-
rant would cost a party Of three persons at
least S. 50; in a first-class hotel, SS5 At
Yu Ung's, however, the cost is but s. A.
or course the Monpolian has Inquiries and
-. o.. .,,.,., 4.,le ..r,.. M.,;.., ~, y
p1ys .oi su -, en-. .SS n ..n A.i
oucA .An ool'oU euA s.uneU WIN ~
monds, chestnuts' rasins, watermelon seeds
imported spices and roasted, Is worth 81
A sucking pig similarly treated brings Is t.
81. Birds nest SOUP ct 80 cents Q PORTION,
sharks fins fricasseed ct 40. dragon fish
rapout at IS, and ssa- worm at Is arc other
instances in point II Is not uncommon for
a Chinese dinner to cost IS plate. exclusive
of wine. and ON state occasions SO a hsad
has besi, tho price paid by the ever a the
feast u
At these great dinners q feature of the
cooking Is the element OF surprise. A dish
of apparently hard boiled eggs IS placed be-
fora Won. You Oman one and IL Is fiIled with
a purplish cusfard, favored with violets. q
second has I brown filling. cblored and
dSvered Vith chocolsta. and 4 tkifd rose.
thted ara perfumed cream A eecoud dfsh
Of eggs wfii contain assorted es and ice
creams. Again. the abundant deposits be-
fore YOU what seems q well boiled trout
Yo.,r chopstick removes tho 6sh-bead and
sk;n At one touch and discloses a long dunn
linz f;Iled with delicious choDued meat or
800 another charmin1 dish consist. an.
s.ront,v of small Veil .fried Dotatoes Each
one however. is a thin she'll of fine. thor