Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1885-09-04

crowned his diplomatic career is due not only
To- his own talents. but also to those of his
cook, who was of the first water
MANY of the difficulties which BEST the
present government of France are said to I've
attributable ~ no snail measure to the alb
s'nc, Of superior cooks from the kitchens of
the high funclionarics of the Third Republic.
Gamie;ta whil. he livel was too astute a
politician and too fastidious an epicure to be
guilty of sub a mistake. His chez was one
of the ilo'; proficient i'll all Paris, and the
dinners If the Palai> Bourbon were so excel
lent that the ;hougl.lcss enemies of the great
tribune called him an ApiciIs President
CREW. no i considered a IN )del of repubi-
ca1 SIMPLICITY. is however. in this matter of
the table, faithful to French tradition and
the heed cook Of the Elystcs, Ve,rier is
famous for III model m.nus But III almost
all of the ministries women preside over the
range. which means that the ministers and
their guests eet poor dinners. for it is a firm
belief III this cuuntry-especially among the
male coo,iS-that the culinary art is a closed
book to woman Just as at Longchamps the
to command serious attention, so a gentle
man of position who respects his own and
his friend, stomachs must have masculine
Chef or he will be made the butt of every
sybarite.
French cooks owe their deserved reputation
to the fact that they study their art long and
assiduously. An aspirant after culinary
honors pays SO much a month in order to act
as assistant to a renowned chef, and submits
to faithful apprenticeship before thinking
of assuming the chief command of kitchen.
The member Of the society are divided INTO
two categories-''s students and artists"
The student-cook is expert in only one or
two parts of his calling; the artist-cook is
master Of the whole subject which is not SO
limited one rs thos, of us imagine who have
been contantcd all our lives with the nnesscs
of "Biddy." The artist must, Of course,
know how to cook; but this is simply the
foundation of his knowledge, on which he
slowly builds up n magnificent superstruc-
ture. A consummate che must suit his dishes
to the temperament Il the convives, other
wise he is little else than a scullion There
fore he must understand some chemistry in
order to know the properties of the eatables
which he employs, and some physiology in
order to know their influence ON the human
organism. He should be a designer, so as to be
able to draw the plan for centrepieces, enough
of an architect to construct them, some
thing Of painter to choose suitable colors
and decorator capable of arranging with
taste and effect the various ornaments which
set off The table. Somebody has truly said
that cook can never hope to attain the height
of his calling unless lie has in him q touch of
the artist. The celebrated Cartme, who once
enjoyed European reputation, uscd 10 spend
his leisure hours copying prints in the public
libraries.
There Is even an instance of a cook who
wished to add to his many other accomplish
ments that Of music. Hartberg, Lubbock
chef, once published a polka entitled BOILED
Eggs" with this receipt-epigraph ON the first
page: when you want to boil eggs, put
them in very hot water, play Boiled Eggs
allegro moderate and take them out at the
end OF the last measure; you will find them
just right" This attempt to introduce music
| into the cook book met, fortunately, with
no success, which has probably saved lovers
| of melody from such infections as Fried
Oyster Waltz" or Pigs Feet Quadrille"
But Hartbcrg is not the only example Of a
musical cook. Lully, the greatest opera cam-
| poser Of the age of Louis XIV, began life as
scullion in the household of the Princess de
Montpcnsier
| When this passion for the kitchen takes
possession of the soul of n true cook, he stor;
at nothing. Like the painter who goes to
| Italy and Spain and Holland to study the
masters. so n culinary artist who is am
bilious of becoming an authority in his pro
| tcsson docs not hesitate to cross mountains
and seas in an cndeavor to perfect hi, educa-
ton. Corentin Pacos, ex-presidsnt Of the
| Society Of French Cooks has devoted many
Years of his life to comparative study Of
the cuisine Of almost all people. He has
mastered, on the spot, the best dishes of
Siam, China and the East Indies, and, back
in Paris again, he is now preparing receipt
book devoted to the kickshaws of these
| strange lands
The PeregrinatiOns and experiences Of Gen
DIRE are not less remarkable He began his
| career III grand mansion of Frankfort and
entered later the kitchen of Prince Orlof, of
Russia. He first acted rs chef in the house
hold OF the French consul at Alexandria
| On his return to Paris he passed through
three ministries and finally entered the
Tuilerics. whence he was enticed to the
Palais Royal by Prince Napoleon, who in the
end gave him up TO a friend This friend, in
turn, surrendered the precious treasure to
Arsene Houssaye, and Gendre contributed in
large part to the grand success of the famous
balls given by this famous itterateur during
the Empire. On one of these occasions
when beautiful lady insisted upon felicitat-
ing, personally, the delighted cook on "the
blending and finish Of his preparations"
Gendre recognized the Empress, who had at
tended the fete incognita After the war
| Gendre went to England and Scotland, but
| he will probably soon retro on his laurels to
spend the rest Of his days in fine house
which he owns in his native village the fruit
OF wears of honorable labor among the pots
and pans of q hundred kitchens.
TpEOpORE STANTON
N0A1~ N>As ~I