Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-05-02
LACI AND LONELINESS.
Color AND FABRIC SUPPLANTS
GAUD AND GLITTER.

Soft ints and Beautiful Materials For
thu Coming Summer-EIaborate Ora
peies Observation-Disclosures Novelties in
Eshion-Millinery Run BIad-Summer
OltHts-Dressing at the Theatres.
FEW YORK, May 1.-White and very
li@t toilets are now the best evidence of
di5inction and the refinement which ac-
companies cultivation. Abroad, espeei-
ally in France, in Russia, and (measura-
YIN Germany, this mas been so for many
ears, and III a way that is not affected
y fashion. The economy of dark colors,
which recommend them to English
women and renders chem q necessity to
business and professional women, does
not enter into the calculations of the
fashionable leaders of society. If it did
they would not be leaders. They must,
in their way, have the courage and nerve
OF other leaders-courage to waste and
nerve to spend-or they could not
achieve success in their role
Now that trains are confined to the
drawing-rOom and jewels to dowagers,
delcacy of tint most srikngly marks the
difference between poverty and wealth,
work and leisure, those who must take
care of themselves and those who have
others to care for them; and so we find
exquisite dressing gowns of white Chud-
dab wool lined with cream silk or satin;
walking dresses of creamy serge or white
cloth trimmed with braid or embroidery;
dinner dresses of white satin or suraL
trimmed with beautiful Spanish lace, and
evening toilets of embroidered or plated
gauZe or lace, over silk or satin, powdered
with snow drops or viii ViOlets, and only
fit, seemingly, for beings too fair and ira
gile for earth.
LONELINESS never had a better oppOrtu-
nifty of being enhanced by dress than to-
day: but, alas it is terribly trying to its
opposite-uglness. Thick compilations,
small, dull eyes, and heavy, inert bodies
are only more conspicuous in light colors
and rich fabrics.
One beautiful young married woman
has had complete summer outfit made
of white materials in various tints and
stutfs with little variation in accessories
to her numerous costumes and toilets.
For example, one of her dresses IS a com
plete costume in soft white-cOrded silk,
wonderfully embroidered in shaded white,
the roses, bonnet and small mantle to
match, trimmed with lovely maiden hair
fern lace. The parasOl matches the
dresses and has border of roses in foli-
are, hand embroidered like the dress, and
fall of lace from the canOpied top. This
costume is to be worn at rose fete which
she will give in June. OF two white
walking dresses one is cream serge
trimmed with cream silk braid, the front
cut in a square turret shape over dOu-
BILE knife pleatng at the edge; straight
plated back and plated bodice. The
other is of cloth with fine gold embroidery
upon the front and bodice, clustered
plaits at sides and straight plaits at the
back. The basque is short and pointed,
the embroidery outlining vest.
An evening dress is Of gathered gauZe
over ivory silk, the skirt straight and pow
dered all over with white violets, the
stems of which are passed through tiny
loop in the gauZe. This is the second
dress of the kind seen here-the first de-
scribed some months ago.
Another charming toilet, which may be
used for dinner or evening wear. is Of
white canton crepe over satin embrod-
cred with Japanese gold thread and silk
upon the front of the skirt, below a puifed
apron of the crepe, and also upon the
front Of the pointed bodice. The sleeves
are of canton crepe, tied around the arm
above the elbow, with pale yellow satiE
ribbon and hsnging loose and straight
from the upper arm with border formed
of fringe of Japanese gold thread and tied
and twisted Japanese silk.
A garden party dress consisted Of
basque bodice and side paniers Of cream
summer silk plush, with interior facing
of silk and ruche of wide lace arranged
in shells around the neck and down the
front over a short skirt Of satin with frise
velvet front, and sides draped with lace
arranged to match the bodice. A large
white hat with edge Of gold and trimming
of feathers fastened with a diamond
buckle completed this costume.
TINTs AND TONES.
The healthfulness and cleanliness of
white, as well as the possibilities of beauty
in its various tints, is great argument
In its favor. 1t is said, and said truly,
that the accommodations of dust and even
Od0r in garments long worn and not
cleaned because their color cOnceals their
condition is not only an outrage upon all
IDEAS Of personal delicacy, but detri-
mental to health. The more often clothes
need washing the better, and the cost of
keeping them clean ought to be part Of
every refined wOman's calculations.
Young girls especially need to have the
necessity of cleanliness as associated
with healthiulness, and a high pure type
Of development strongly impressed upon
them. As much good would be accom-
plshed by using for our girls simpler but
purer materials, and expanding the money
now employed in bangles and snowy orna-
ments in cleaning their white wooden or
linen uftbbeSs
Fashion now admits of the wearing of
undyed, unbleached and undressed ma
terials-that is, materials in natural tints
without stifiening or artificial cOloring.
The lovely effect of the combination of
these delicate natural tiuts can be seen
in the union of tinted whites with pale
ecrus, the flax color with natural brown,
and the variety and beauty to be obtained
in shading from tinted white to brown.
The mischieYous effect of modern ami
line color IS patent enough in hosiery,
yeilings, ribbons and handkerchiets,
which have been proven to be the cause
Of dreadful eruptions. So well is this I'M
derstoOd now that the best Of the second
airy kinds Of hosiery are all made with
white feet, so that the color VIII not be 50
likely to come off by wear and contact.
Some Of the loveliest of the summer
dress materials have tinted grounds
covered with an open ecru and white em-
br0idery. The sOftness and refinement Of
the effect cannot be put into words, and
together with the simplicity Of the de-
slgns-the absence Of cutting and bunch
lng-harmonizes most admirably with
youth and freshness on the wcarers.
Young women are indeed to be con-
eratulated on having gotten rid of the
thinning and OVERLAPPING, the elaborate
draperies aud numerous accessories which