Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-09-12

AGAIS-STRfPES AND PLaIDs IN yoarE-
sotFAcHE To THE FRoNr-wINTER WRAPS
FINE SOFT wooLESs-wooL LAcEs, ETC.
Hon COLLARS are worn with all walkin,
dresses
FLAT VESTS are worn with bodices havins
Jacket fronts
LACE AND EMBROIDERED JABors are worr
with indoor toilettes.
BRETON VESTS AND EroN AND ZouAv1
JACKETS continue to be In favor
CRIMSON SILK SCARVES with silver fringe.
are worn In the evening as a head covering, and
arc quite effective.
DARK BLUE AND BorTLs-9REKN CLOTHS an
the fayorites for riding habits, the durability o.
these coiors being superior to others.
QUAINT FANCY IN EVENING SLIPPERS
SHOWS little French sabots of alligator skin
with tiny reptiles embroidered on the tip.
AMONG THE PRETTY TRIPLES for the season
are new Algerian ribbons, those made Of lightly
woven wooden Tissues dyed with gray-colored
stripes.
WIDE SAsHEs, both satin and MORE, are still
In favor, but there is some variation In tying
them, as the ends now often fall as loops; sof,
silks should be used.
WIDE SAsHEs with narrower hat scarfs to
match are imported in wool goods, In MORE
flille, satin and velvet. with wide striped OF
lowered designs across the ends, and a plain
color for the main part OF the SASH.
CHARMING BONNET of rose-colored crepe.
line is covered with cream white imitation
valenciennes lace and is trimmed with bow
OF rose-colored velvet ribbon, covered by -
cluster Of pink and white roses. The strings
are of narrow rosc-colored velvet ribbon.
THE FANCY for wool lace extends to Its use In
lingerie for the neck and dress corsage. Ex-
ceedingly fine designs of white mOhair lace are
used by French mOdistes for Implicated cravat
bows, plastrons, chemisettes and the collarettes
that are worn outside dress waists, and serve 10
brighten up the simplest costume.
SOME OF THE TENNIS BLOUSEs for ladies'
wear are made of nuns gray flannel, or dark
blue Austrian woOl-goOds, and laced across the
chest exactly as gentlemens yachting shirts
are finished. BiOuseS ol the same style are
shown In gay striped woolens, but these IRE not
considered first choice for ladies "out of their
teens"
A PRETTY AUTUMN TOILETTE for q young
girl or youthful matron is of faille franeaise
and Thibet in large plaid. The first skirt is of
golden brown faille. trimmed at the lower edge
second skirt is of plaid Thioet, bordered with a
very wide bias fold of golden brown faille,
pleated at the waist
SoUTACHE, which has been abandoned, re-
sumed and re-abandoned, is again restored. 1t
is not employed Unfortunately, but solely
for ornamentng cloth dresses, which are EN-
broidered with soutache at the edges OF the
skirt and corsage; on the front the embroidery
the shape of the skirt.
A PRkTTY ADDITION is made to French waist
coat bodices under the guise OF high ruffie of
lace carried over the chest, where 1t gradually
widens and is finished off by corselet drapings
ladies, il is intended that these folds shall be
met by a deep swiss belt passing round the
bodice, and completed at the back by a broad
sash. Poppy-red merveilleux is mucn used for
this purpose.
PAssEMESrERIE is as widely used Us ever,
and the plaques or fiat appliqucs Of 1t are grow
Ing larger and larger and more and more
blended with beads, which also are steadily in
creasing in size. These PLAQUES are placed on
the shoulders in epauet fashion. ut the bottom
of the back between the waist. and the pOut,
upon the pleats of drapery, and I;iStIy-in re-
duced dimensions, OF course-at the throat, and
at the waist for q belt buckle.
Wool LACEs are very largely imported for
autumn use, and are shown in fiounees yard
deep 70 cover the entire dress skirt as far as It'll
visible. These laces are now.Inade of the dura-
BILE mohair, which is firnler than the soft wool
woven into such laces last season: the patterns
are small and new, or else they reproduce those
OF antique guipure lace; a small scallopcd de-
foot of the skirt. These fiOunces sold in four
yard lengths for the entire skirt, and are to be
made up over silk, wool or satin in a plain
round skirt.
HARPER's BAzAR says that the coming win
ter is pledged to all fine soft woolens, there
having been a marked and decided preference
for thick and rough-surfaced stuffs last winter.
Cashmere cloth and Amazon cloth, both fine,
in its natural (a trifie russell tint Thibet stufs
both plain and bOucle, Tunsian stripes, show
ing bands OF bright color mixed with a little
gold, which are used for skirts only and t,tp.is
80 called because woven in q small trells OF
TWO colors, usually 0ros blea and chamois. These
are the autumn novelties.
PLAIN VEI.vETs are so largely imported that
of themselves they would constitute "velvet
season." but to these are added striped and fig
ured velvets, and the beaded and embroidered
velvets that are tn form the combinations with
plain velvet or with uncut velvet costumes. A
Ptogto or lead-colored costume with the front
beaded with lead beads, will be a stylish choice
for autumn and winter, but the still larger i'm
portations of brown velvets both for dresses
and bonnets point TO these warmer browns as q
more certain choice for q winter toilet. The use
Of carved wood beads in brown shades on
brown velvet is a novelty for the front breadth,
the plastrOn, collar, and cuffs of brown velvet
dresses.
COMBINATIONS Of plain and figured goods will
be used again for autumn and winter dresses
For WOODEN costumes two kinds Of wool will be
chosen, one Of which is plain and the other
stripes shown are rough boucle or Astrakhan
cloths, alternating with smoother stuffs, which,
however, are only smooth by comparison, as
they are heavily twilled, or in such wide dag
Onal lines that each line stands out like sepa-
rate row of braid The bOuce stripes are very
effective, and will retain their appearance, be-
cause they are formed of cCriS loops OF tightly
twisted threads OF mohair that are impervious
TO dampness, and are not easily crushed out of
shape.
THE New AND FANcIFUL small wraps, now
being prepared for autumn wear after French
models, are very graceful, chic, and essentially
Partisan. The shapes are almost indescribable.
some of the visites have basque backs and
there are peerines with vest fronts strapped
across and held with small gold and enamel
buckles. Short, rounding dOlman shapes are
loose In the back, with trim jacket-fronts belfed
or held At the waist with ribbon ties. Three
different kinds OF trimming will often be used
upon even the smallest OF these mantles, which
are IN most cases made OF fabrics of the riches
description
a FASHION WRITER in q leading society
Journal OF LOdon states that velvet ribbon ia
used to excess as garniture for dresses, hats
and bonnets-the deep or the vivid shades OF
red, green. blue and brown for day wear: and
upon delicate red fabrics for full dress occasions
velvet ribbons of the most exqusitey soft and
lively tints OF pravn pink, sky blue. mauve and
the like are used with handsome effect. This
same garniture, arranged In straight rows in
cream or snow white, is taking the place OF lace
finish TO toilets Of albatross, nuns yelling
and other light wool costumes.
EMILE RAYMOND, the fashion writer says
that = novel fabric invented to please the pre-
vailing taste for lace goods is q warm wool cloth
with its surface covered all over with netting
in web-like lace patterns. Guipure designs OF
intricate patterns show the perfection OF weav-
ing when thrown in light threads of one or two
colors on cloth back of some bright contrast
ing color that shows through the netting, such
black on crimson, blue on poppy red, gray on
blue. or brown on blue. Then there are stripes
OF this lace-work alternating with stripes OF
wool To form part of the dress In com bination
with the smAller-fgured lace cloth.
IA 49,.