The Somerset reporter. [volume] (Skowhegan, Me.) 1868-1909, 1885-10-07
Cloaks and Gowns.
NEW MATERIALS PoH FALL AND WINTER WEAR

The first chilly winds of autumn turn our at
tention to warmer habiliments and we instinct
lively examine the wooden fabrics which are al
ready shown in great quantity and variety. The
latest importations bring to us the heaviest and
the toughest stuffs that have been seen for many
a day. Every freak is INDUCED by fashion to
bring up the fuzz Of the wool.
Among the new goods is fine, soft, twillcd
cloth called EHinin. This comes in nine colors
and for combination costumes; the cloth for the
outer dress being in figures, flowers, and III
checks, all raised and in embroidered effects
while the underdrcss is Of plain goods. This Is
decidedly season of combination costumes.
Each sample of wool dress fabric has its combin
alton, in all the standard colors. stripes arc
seen in almost everything. Broad plain stripes,
groups Of fine stripes, the hair line checked and
Blocked stripes, and stripes of mixed or cash
mere colors, and all running lcngthwise OF the
cloth. .
Another new material is the B0Hrette. This
is heavier and comes mixed in color and plain
The soft graceful cameps hair comes this sea-
son in plain grounds with stripes, and with en-
broidcred flowers, which enhance the effect OF
the cashmere. The cloths are double and are
three dollars yard for the figured and half as
much for the plain. Another quality OF tins
popular material is the India twill or camel,s
hair serge. This is very fine and is interspcrsed
with embroidered flowers in several shades
| from dark to light, of the same color as the
| ground; then there are striped ones, with small
| embroidered figures directly ON the stripes.
| This embroidery is all in wool, and with all
| these comes the plain material for the coinoln-
alton effects.
| Another new material is the Bouete which is
| all wool and woven in Astrakhan effects Ill fig
urcs and stripes with plain to match. There
are illuminated bouctes with borders contain
ing orange blue and red. Then there are bouete
stripes in brown with knots of color, and coarse
| canvas grounds with bouetc staipes, and others
| in invisible checks. These are AZ inches wide
and two dollars yard. With the canvas
grounds may be classed the homespun goods
which are nearly as heavy in quality, and woven
in mixed shades of brown, dark and light. Some
of the newer ones are woven IN stripes ana nave
| n plain pattern to combine.
The cheviots remain about the same in quail
ity but introduce new features by way OF luln
mated mixtures. The tuitcd homespun is YER,
heavy This is domestic manufacture and Is
"a inches wide and 81 30 a yard.
Very handsome and effective are the wooden
uncut velvet goods These entirely new
and arc embroidered in silk uncut, in flowers
and in peppered mixtures of green and yellow
blue and yellow brown and yellow, with plain tt
match the darker color, for every thing leans Il
| combination.
For durability, and departure from the com
binaton costumes are cashmere bourettcs, serg
es. armures, all OF which are plain and all wool
~ inches wide, and range from - cents to u
yard.
Plain fabrics of a fine soft quality, are never alb
solutely passed, and many people who cannot at
ford to pay high prices for novelties, which We
weary Of the second season, are well provided
for in these excellent stuffs, which include thu
cames hair, cashmere, albatross, India twill
foule and various other materials.
A new silk and wool goods is known as tn
Brocbie cloth. This is shown in figures Of sill
and in cashmere colored stripes two mche
wide with the plain silk and wool to match.
diagonal cloth is shown which has silk plusl
stripes, varicgated and solid stripes. This is 4
inches wide and from three to four dollars yard
| Another new silk and wool material is an lndi
| cashmere with uncut silk velvet stripes in al
colors and combinations Of COLOR in mixed cash
mere colorcd stripes, closely woven and fiat
stripes in groups OF seven, checked stripes il
two colors, and in large and small figures a
we'll. In all combinations the plain material i
lower priced. In pattern dresses there is larg
variety, many Of which are manufactured with
heavily ornamentcd front breadth, and other
with richly embroidered borders.
| In black goods the tufted, striped and uncu
velvet effects are carried out in bison, homespui
armure, cordurette, henrietta, and cancels hair
with the plain to combine.
The newest fancy hannels of light quality ar
those which are embossed in floral designs
These are in plain red, blue and pink Their
are pale gray grounds with pink rose buds, ant
white grounds with bright red cherries. Thes
are bright and cheerful for morning wrappers
| The Jersey stripes, Wnlcn are so well known. ar
still shown in some new standings only, and ar
OF domestic production.
In cloaking materials there is new chenille
cloth in Persian pattern and colors, in mxet
and embossed figures This is heavy and need
no lining. Brocadcd Amazon cloth is new, thu
leaves and figures being in another shade from
the ground. A basket cloth is woven in check
with bits of color. The silk and wool mataass
in new designs is shown and the fancy Jacquard
which are all wool There fancy pushes il
stripes, and Astrakhan curl for trimming in al
the standard colors. For more dressy wea
there are silk armures which reversible, WOW
en- IN small figures and in diagonal lines. I'm
perial Sicienne for circular cloaks is very sof
and beautiful This is 80 inches wide and $3.50
a ward. Satin duchesse' which is liked mucl
for its rich ustre, is still fashionable and is some
times combined with frisette velvet, this is uncu
velvet ground with figures Of cut and uncut vel
vet.
Not only il it season of wool, but it is an er;
of beads. They long way from oblivion
for all the new silks are beaded in some way. Fo
evening there white satins, with broad fora
stripes in rich colors and beaded in the veins o
the leaves. These truly elegant. There ar,
ottoman grounds with arabesque designs in sill
plush There are frisette grounds with embroid
cred flowers and figures with silk floss. Their
are cut and uncut brocaded ottoman silks bead
ed in steel, lead color, jet, gilt and irridescen
and in pearl. There are matalasses and velye
brocades. There ,insel and uncut velvetS
All these are mostly for front breadths and com
bnation. --Erchange.
|