Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-05-02

|
figured STUFF were used for basques or bodices.
All We're of plain, sel-coiored velvet satin, or
| tine silk plush, not always like the skirt, but
| FORMING Wndt Is called a "theater" bodice, with
| winch any short dark skirt can be worn. These
! ntsques were short on the hips. but pointed in
| 'front.', and either pointed arranged a small
poSti!lion at the back. When high they were
| edged III some instances with beads, the most
| conspicuous being three-in different parts OF
| the house-one of which was ruby velvet edged
with gold beads another, wine colored satin,
| edged with garnet, and the third amber plush,
| necklace al the throat. This last dress a
| study Iii SET tiuts, running into brown. n wrap
| thrown aside was OF amber SATIN covered with
| a shaded embroidery in amber and browns, and
| edged with a silk and beaded fringe TO match.
Inc bonnet repeated the tints, and the design
| IN its embroidered crown, rich lace front, and
| line gold aigrette.
| GOLD EMBROIDERY.
| The display OF gold embroidery, gold embroi-
| dered lace gold ornamentation the head
@c'tr nnl rich beading. was surprising because it
was not loud or vulgar. The reason of this was
simply that thecolors were soft and we'll blend
ed that they did not produce pronounced effect.
| The difference between the artistic use of genu-
| Inc materials and the ignorant employment of
cheap and merely snowy ones is one naturally
of cost we'll taste, and it is only at certain
| places and under exceptionally favOring cir
culnStances that the best can be found.
y new and effective finish TO the neck of some
dresses consisted Of q double puff of crepe lsse
| set upright ana dotted with colOred chenille to
| match the dress. Below this in some instances
| ana long Jabot in front. Others displayed sort
| OF interior fichu-what was formerly known as a
! habit skirt-edged with several rows of crimped
/ crepe isse dotted like the standing rutfs with
| chenille liz cOlorS.
| But several pairs of the gloves worn displayed
| perhaps the most striking novelty Some of
these were in light ecru tints, hand painted
| upon the backbone in tiny sprays of trailing
arbutuS. These were worn with handsome
| The bonnet was of black lace, the crown studded
Win enamelled flies, the garniture an aigrette
| OF primrose feathers tipped with gold. Other
gloves had arms OF transparent gauZe in leaf
| design, vejned with gold and silk embroidery,
| ana outlined with the kid which was also EN-
bfoidered or stitched to produce this effect.
| Nearly all the gloves worn with sleeves which
| displayed them wholly were ruffied with lace
at the top.
| DRESSING FOR CHARITY.
society people are never troubled by the COM
mon horrors Of moving and spring cleaning
| .or the latter is done in summer, when they
are away iii the country, and the former is not
necessary to those who live in hotels or own
their own houses. Still there are not many
private entertainments given in the spring.
fashionable people being occupied with bazars
and entertainments for charities, to which time
ana strength could not be given during the
short and busy period after the New Year and
betrre Lent The most exclusive of these
undertakings is the s'KIrrness" so-cal!ed
though it bears little resemblance to the Dutch
ar from which 1t takes its name, which takes
lace in me open air and lasts a week. The
| hiriiess. however, as it is, started in good
hands, Mrs: Richard Twins, and Jumped at
once into fashionable popularity. One of its
strokes OF genius was charging eight times the
| tSiii,i price OF adm lSsiUn, which excluded the
'nobodies" and made every one want to see
what il was that rated itself so high. Indeed
the show was not worth the money, but it was
avery pretty spectacle. nevertheless and as
and national character, they sold at good
| prices. The name of 'ooOth" was given to the
stalls, and the costumes OF the ladies in attend
ance were more or less Dutch, Russian, Spanish
or Moral, as required.
description of these would occupy columns,
but a rose dress in pink tulIe Short over pink
silk. covered with rose petals and bordered with
! leaves was lovely. The low bodice was ar
ranged with Grecian folds and trimmed in the
same way. The hair was crowned with close
wreath OF small roses, without leaves The
l,ntrh dresses consisted of the usual short
stun skirts and velvet bodice over a high chemi-
| ornaments.
But though the fancy dresses were wonder
| fuily picturesque and added much to the vari-
| ETY. and beauty of the scene, which was in MANY
| respects reproduction of the great English
| bazars given annually for sweet charity's sake
| the interest for my readers will chiefly center
! in the stylish spring costumes of the fair spec-
| tators. The newest of these were combina-
| tons OF satin trimmed with Yak lace of extra
| ordinary fnenesS. An effective dress was of
/ fcelie colored cashmere with lower front of
| ruby satin covered with wooden lace as fine as
coDWeb. The bodice was OF glove kid ficelle
coiored. stitched with lines of ruby silk and the
| bonnet OF ruby satin and lace like that upon
| the dress with pale gold thistles for Ornament
| \ beautiful all blacl. toilet was of dull MORE
| striped III wave like lines and trimmed with
| the new lead beaded embroidery upon net and
beautiful lace. The lead-beads, SO called from
| their gray color. not from their weight which
is almost nil, are likely to supersede steel-in-
deed have done i , so to great extent. A great
| advantage IS that they do not tarnish and are
not shiny like steel, but possess closer affinity
| with black, and can be used with finer artistic
| effect. \ most exquisite shoulder cape with
| fichu ends. worn by a lady famous for having
| made a magnificent donation to q Catholic
c,tucatinnai Institution was beaded with lead.
hinG
| l>n jacket AMI gave a wonderfully graceful
| effect to the distinguished looking little gar
| ment.
| The waved stripes are a novelty peculiar to
| the season, but are yet only seen in imported
| costumes. They are admired when seen to ad-
vantage in plain deIni-trained skirts or in com
binatiOn with beaded satin frorts or paneIled
| dresses. But the stripes ought to retain their
undulatins charm and not lose it in pleatings
| or drapery.
\ characteristic dress this season is of self.
| colored wool or satin, with embroidered vest
| these were worn and looked well, particularly
one in a charming shade of wood brown, with
| embroidery in various shades of green and gold
| with brown silk outlining
4 very handsome dress was of smoke colored
| silk and velvet, with short velvet mantle; and
still more effective gray dress was ofsatin with
rise velvet front and mantle bordered with
chenille tongue fringe.
pretty fashion with the open fichus and
| bodices is to employ the wired collar and con-
tinue it nearly to the waist facing the inner
side with tinted satin, and filling in with the
| part of the chemsette. The delicate sugees
ton OF the color of the dress in the lace is Verv
| pretty.
LOVELY MATERIALS,
Lovely materials there are in plenty. and
some that are not at all expensive. Chief among
these are the fine soft woolens that make up into
| such dainty dresses, are cool as muslin almost
| yet stand wear and exposure without utter COL
| lapse. In black over silk skirt they are useful
| for church wear in the country, and take the
| place or more expensive grenadine: in light
colors they are suitable for indoors and for girls
| both day and evening, and with a sash or a lit.
| tie satin ribbon can be made dressy enough for
evening wear. The filmy wooden laces so deli
| cate yet strong, are too expensive for ordinary
wear, but they suggest charming possibilities in
connection with these pretty materials and
| give US something that Is refined without gilt
| ter.
The cloth dresses for spring wear are in
strictly tailor" styles high at the throat with
| standing collars, high narrow sleeves, and
| straight pleated and paneled skirts When
drapeTy Is employed 1t forms a pointed apron
the folds also pointed downward and draped
| very high at the sides, which are killed. or
show braided panels to match the vest cuffs
| and collar. The drapery at the back is often
short and very bOuffdnt over the straight box
| peatng of the skirt, but it may be as long as
| the apron If preferred. With genuine tailor
made dresses several vests are usually ordered
"a white, buff kid or silk, and one the color
| of the cloth An embroidered vest is usually
accompanied by straight embroidered cuffs
| and collar, and perhaps by a LETT side panel the
| ing a contrasting color.
have mentioned in a previous letter the COD.
perry gold japanese cords and narrow braids
| which are set on edge to produce the arabesoue