Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-08-15
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald bu 9 Leone. :
MIpsuMMER DRESSES.

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Written for The Herald bu g Leone. y
MIDSUMMER DRESSES.
Blue and fawn-colored alpaca have
found great favor as seaside dresses, and
are used as well for travelling, as they
are more serviceable than the canyass
stuffs provided by the modistes for the
purpose.
A pleated basque with or without a
belt, is apopular design for alpaca waists.
while others are very severely shaped
positions with narrow Breton vest, all
in one piece, set in front, thickly braided
in cross rows with black or silver braid,
and fastened to the waist by row of
small buttons and button-holes down
each side.
Very long draperies will be used on
these dresses for the early autumn, Civ
ing what English tailors call second skirts
or double skirts. In some instances the
upper skirt is laid in lengthwise pleats
nearly all around the figure, while in
others 1T hangs quite plain, with some
shirring below the waist, and is careless
ly caught up on the left side by strap or
loop that depends from the belt.
Dark blue that is almost black is best
liked for mohair or alpaca dresses, and is
worn for coaching or travelling with a
hat of blue basket straw, or of rough
straw in the peaked brimshape.
or with high crown and close rolled
brim.
A scarf of blue canvass or folds of blue
velvet arranged in the two loops called
donkeys' ears, y forms the trimming,
and in front may be stuck some small,
sharply pointed wings, either red. white,
or blue, and sometimes all the three col
ors are used together. White or poppy
red Grape scarfs and curved loops form
the entire trimming on other hats, while
still others have single large bow of
many clustered loops of gros grain or of
velvet ribbon.
SHORT JACKETS AND LONG COATS.
Short revers jacket of poppy red serge
or of white serge with bars of red and
green crossing it at wide intervals are
the Jaunty garments worn at the seaside
with print or muslin dresses these and
sailor hat give smart look to the sim
pie costume, and make them serve for
walking. coaching, or yachting, as the
wearer chooses.
Oull ACu VI RItcA ttkNtt is uScu lOI u
high standing collar, cuffs, pockets, and
wide revers down the fronts of the white
jackets, while red jackets have velvet of
the same shade and old dull silver but
tons.
New, long coats that cover the wearer
from the throat to the foot are made of
blue or brown cloth with a plastron and
standing collar of light fawn or gray
oil civ tho CT, Of Jrac, &c
light color beneath.
The coat has reverS turning back from
the top of the darts upward, notched like
the collar of a mans morning coat, and
trimmed with frogs of metal braid in the
new copper colors and plomb or lead
color. The skirt hangs smoothly and
quite full, yet is cut without pleats in
the back.
This coat is intended to serve for a
travelling wrap and for cool days in the
autumn months.
WASH DRESSES.
Sheer lawns and muslin in light colors
are the comfortable morning and day
dresses worn during the midsummer
heat, their freshness is their charm,
hence the light colors that require fire.
quent cleansing are preferred to the
dark grounds that are confessedly chosen
because they do not soil.
To make these simply and without
lining, yet to give full appearance is
the modiste g object. To do this foun-
dation skirt is made of the material, and
on this is hung a deep flounce extending
from just below the hips to the feet, and
the top of this fiounce is concealed by
draperies ; this gives the effect of round
skirt, or at least very full skirt.
For lawn dresses this deep fiounce is
gathered and sometimes is tucked in clus-
tiers of four tucks, each in four or five
clusters. The drapery is a breadth of
the lawn drawn straight across the top,
with gathers down each side to make it
fully wrinkled, while the back has fuller
breadths tucked across the foot, and
slightly bouffant at the top.
A basque without lining is made of the
lawn, and in front is a narrow Breton
vest tucked across. and buttoned to the
basque by small pearl buttons down each
side the buttonholes are worked In the
basque, and the buttons are on the vest,
so that it may pass under the basque in
true vest fashion. The collar is tucked
and tucked and turned over, yet it is
rolled so closely to the neck that it gives
the appearance of a standing collar it
must be detached from the rest, but fast
ened to the basque so that it can be hook
ed in front over the vest.
Other muslins are made with the gath
cred beited waist, and are worn with a
sash or belt. French modiste's are u.s.
ing robe patterns with founces for mus
lin and summer silk dresses, having the
skirt covered with three deep hounces,
scalloped on the edges, and with large
pattern of flowers, and vine printed Oh
each fiounce. A very wide sash ribbon
is worn with such skirt, and knots of
the ribbon trim the sleeves and front of
the corsage. Plaid and striped ginghams
are similarly made, but the full-looking
skirt is deep fiounce laid in kilt pIeats
instead of being gathered. A pretty
model for Scotch bingham dress for
morning walks or for short journey in
the cars is of black and white large cross
bare for the kilt pleated skirt, and. its
sash-like drapery, while the basque is of
a plain ground of mixed black and white,
with gathered vest of the plaid set up
on the edge of the basque.
A black rough and ready straw sailor
hat with two velvet bands around the
crown and rosette in front, black and
Wnlte striped lingerie, and black leath-
er belt, complete the toilet.
SASHES.
All kinds of wide ribbons are used for
sashes on imported dresses, gauze, MORE,
plaid or striped silk, or satin; shot silk
studded with gold flowers and wide lace
'carfs are also employed in various ways
IS sashes. Sometimes they form the en-
ire drapery on the back of a French
1ress, while on other gowns they are
passed in soft folds around the waist and
led on the left side in long loops and
ends. A width of silk is often used in
,wo loops, and two long hanging ends at
he back, and these ends are made to fall
,pen, and quite separate to show that
hey are meant 70 separate sash.
FASHION NOTES.