Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1885-03-19

Inc next morning DfOk6 DFIguG duN
clear, and enabled us to see exactly
where we were-ln a large frame
house not far from the edge of a great
hole in the world, from five hundred
to one thousand feet deep and some
nine miles in circumference. Mauna
Loa, to the right, swept up from the
plain ten thousand feet above US.
Mauna Kea, with It's snowy crown,
rising still higher, appeared in the
northwest scarcely farther off. The
atmosphere was clearer than crystal.
Distances on all sides were to the eye
amazingly diminished. THIS is one
reason why Kilauea fails SO much at
first, nature having done all her work
on q gigantic scale. A trial Of dis
tances on foot soon determines this
fact, and respect and wonder at the
scene proportionately increases. So
perfectly distinguishabIe are objects
on the further bank of the crater that
the visitor is slow to believe that the
distance in a straight line is more than
three miles and that nine miles will
hardly give It's circumference. Sur
rounding the house on all sides were
deep assures and holes in the earth,
throwing out scalding steam. Some
of them were incrusted with sui phur.
Others on their banks condensed the
steam into water, which when cool is
very fine drinking. Over one of these
assures was erected a bath house,
which at one time Was perhaps very
convenient, but, having long since
gone to ruin and decay, very few
visitors are tempted to indulge in the
luxury of sulphur bath where there
is no water with which to cleans thena-
selves after their steaming. On sit
ting down to breakfast after a walk IN
the vigorous morning air, it was with
painful surprise that we again saw
before bis the same piece of wild boar,
warmed over, and the same dish Of
sweet potatoes. for during our stroll
in the vicinity of the house we noticed
nicely kept kitchen garden, In which
were growing an abundance of vege
tables of various kinds. Upon calling
the attention of the landlord to this
fact, ne suavely informed us that they
were grown for his use only, and not
for his guests. Ia reply to our inquiry
as to his reason for this discourteous
treatment, he stated that he did not
wish people to come there, as they in
terfered with his regular business OF
stock raising, and the only plan 10
keep them away was TO give poor fare
and high prices.
With this encouraging information,
we attacked our meager breakfast with
dogged determination and settled
resolve to take our departure early
next morning. After breakfast we
prepared ourselves for q visit to the
crater, and, upon asking fer guide,
we were again courteously informed
that none was to he had, as they were
all busy attending to his stock up on
the mountain side. There being no
help for it, we started by ourselves for
the crater.
The first descent was quite abrupt,
but the path soon became less steep
and more circBitous, though none the
less fatiguing, for the last half Of the
way down the bank was a slippery,
inclined plane. I found il very weari-
some, particularly as we were then ex
posed to the concentrated heat from
the sides and base of the crater. We
found the walking firm and struck off
directly across the center of the lake,
The lava was of inky blackness and
smooth as satin, and lay about us in
great coils, like ships hawsers. Oc
casionally we came upon deep cracks
and cavities of various sizes, partially
covered with a thin crust. The sur.
face, generally, was porous for an inch
or so in depth, as if Termed from froth
or lava. Great blocks, as perfectly
quarried as if cut by stone-mason,
lay strewn about us IN great confusion
The ascent into the body of the crater
was over rise of lava broken UP OF
confusedly piled together. There was
no difficulty IN surmountlng this, or,
indeed, in traverslng the crater in any
direction, beyond keeping sharp
lookout for the numerous chasms into
which the lava, IN cooling, splits up.
We saw but few cones that were ac-
tive, beyond slight smoke or steam,
and all the lakes or minor craters and
canals were black and cold. Het air
issued from a few crevices, but nc
other evidence of fire could be seen.
The ascent was very gradual until
within half mile of the lake, where
it became more abrupt and the lava
more broken. However, there was
no danger or trouble beyond little
more care in picking our way. The
chasms were easily junpsd over, or,
if we found one wider and more suS-
picious looking than usual we avoided
1t by a little detour.
AS we neareG The fountain of this
great black sea, cones appeared drip
ping with sulphur and spouting steam
and fire, and a dull roar, as of a lion,
greeted our ears A few more steps
and we stood on the brink Of the great
Lake Halemauman. It burst upon
our visions with beautiful effect, and
we sat down and reveIed in the scene.
It was not grand, nor terrific, nor
startling; it was beautiful. I was
disappointed I had looked for fury,
tempest, and frenzy in this lake OF
fire. I found a terrible composure.
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