The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1885-08-19
FASHION AS 1T FLIES.
The Eshics of Perfumes-Country Costumes
Work Dresses.

The EShics of Perfumes-Country Costumes
Work Dresses.
Perfumes take their tone from our fashions
and change in the same manner as the de-
tails of our toilet, shades FORMS trimmings,
etc. We have seen ylang-ylang succeed yio-
let; then softer odors, such as new mown
hay, spring flowers, etc, became all the rage,
at this moment the most fashionable scents
are very strong and intensive, for instance
oppopanox, and kiss-me-quick, but many
contain strong proportion of musk, and
therefore women of delicate taste do not ac-
cept them, like everything else in dress or
fashion which is eccentric or exaggerated,
and not elegant or recherche.
Scents are in general the Accomplishments
of elegance and good breeding; delicious
perfume gives that charming something
distinguishing really lldylike feelings and
disposition, and giving distinguished pres
ence to man or woman, when chosen or adj
opted with sense and discretion.
Many of our elegantes employ but one per-
fume for their toilet-table, handkerchief, and
apartment, thus not only are the linen.
dresses. etc, scented in this exclusive manner,
but such lady will have her toilet soaps.
tooth powder, pomades, oils, poudre de riz,
cosmetics, pastille burner, and arom vinegar
actic impregnated with this one perfume.
Sometimes two odors are even adopted, but
for the toilet, one Tor the appurtenances of
the dressing or morning room; yet 1t Is very
difficult, and requires great taste and care to
choose between two opposite perfumes, so
hot ms m 70
gether and not too strong which must be
avoided above all things as having a tinge of
vulgarity and giving faint air to the whole
apartment.
An excellent rule for making a perfume
that smells just like the wood violet is to
take six ounces of the extract of orris, one
ounce of tuberose half an ounce of Jasmine,
two ounces of musk, one drachm of otto of
bergamot, hall an ounce of English lavender,
five minlms of verbena, six minims of amyg-
dala amar, five minims of cOriander, two
minims of sweet flag, three-quarters of
drachm of benzOic acid. Add distilled water
until you see a faint suspicion of milky color,
then add deodorized alcohol until you have
two quarts OF perfume.
To make cologne water try this rule: To
one quart of alcohol allow three drachms of
oil OF lavender, one drachm oil of rosemary,
three drachms each of oil of bergamont and
essence OF lemon, and three drops of the oil
OF cinnamon.
For sketching excursions mountain air
climbing and country rambling during the
fall months
WATERPROOF TWEED
is recommended. 1t is made in different
qualities and widths and in ali shades, even
small stripes and bright patterns can now be
had, but on account of lightneSS il is deemed
advisable to use as little as possible of this
thick heavy WOODEN stuff, i. e., little drapery,
seams and folds not so deep as usual and
sewn on to a strip of lining, and with regard
to trimming it is better to confine ones self
to crossbands, braid, quilted Holland, and
such like. However. by very little change
of those general rules every simple costume
may be used as foundation for street cos
tune in rainy weather tweed will also be
found most appropriate for ulsters.) The
real use of tweed is, however only realized
among the mountains, where ii renders a
waterproof unnecessary, and on account of
its texture gives the body more efficient
protection against rain, or change of tenn
penature, than any other stuff. In order to
render this costume, the chief feature of
which must be that il allows perfect freedom
of movement, suitable also for residence at
the hating places, table d'hote, or promen-
ade double skirt IS much to be recon-
mended-either long underskirt and short
tunic, or exactly opposite
WASH DRESSES.
Sheer muslins and lawns in light colors are
the comfortable morning and day dresses
worn in the country during the midsummer
heat; their freshness is their charm, hence
the light colors that require frequent cleans
ing are preferred to the dark goods that are
confessedly chosen because they do not show
soil To make these simply and without
iinings, yet to give full appearance, is the
modiste's object. To do this a foundation
skirt is first made OF material, and on this is
hung a deep hounce extending from Just be-
low the hips to the foot, and the top OF this
hounce is concealed BY The drapery; this
gives the effect of a round skirt, or at least
very full skirt For lawn dresses this deep
ti0unce is gathered, and sometimes is tucked
in clusters of four tucks each in four or five
clusters. The drapery is a breadth of the
lawn straight across the top, with gathers
down each side to make it fully wrinkled,
while the back has fuller breadths tucked
across the foot, and slightly bouffant the top.
A basque without lining is made of the lawn,
and in front is a narrow Breton vest tucked
across. and buttoned to the basque by small
pearl buttons down each side; the button
holes are worked in the basque. and the but
tons are on the vest SO that it may pass un-
der the vest in true vest fashion. The collar
is tucked and turned over, vet it is rolled
so closely to the neck that it gives the
appearance of "a standing collar; it must
be detached from the vest, but fastened 10
the basque so that il can be hooked in front
over the vest. Other muslins are made with
the gathered belted waist, and are worn with
sash or belt. French modistes are using
rob patterns with fiounces for muslin and
summer silk dresses, having the skirt covered
with three deep hounces. scalloped on the
edges, and with large pattern OF flowers,
and vine printed on each hounce. very
wide sash ribbon is invaribly worn with such
u skirt, and knots of the ribbon trim the
sleeves and the front of the corsage
A Man who Deserves N Monument.
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