Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-07-03
tons of outline, and correspondence OF one
pair OF the dress to another.

WOODEN UNDER VESTS.
The advocates of silk underwear next to the
| skin have much to say 10 regard to the irritat-
| Ing effect of wool upon sensitive cuticle
They admit the superior sanitary influence OF
wool, but assert that upon a fine and delicate
skin the hair shirt OF penitent Is not more in
talerabie than contact with ordinary WOOL
This is pure nonsense and creates bug bears
where no bears exist. A silk shirt in summer
| Is uncomfortable because non absorbent and it
| Is SO expensive it is non existent for the ma
jOrity. 1t also rapidly deteriorates by being
subjected TO the washing process so that 1t loses
much OF its beauty and softnsss before it
reasons silk underwear is not desirable
In warm weather, and the majority are to be
| and on being provided of late years with soft
and hne ''gauze" wooden underwear, which
even the ordinary grades tfilty cents per vest
Will not issitate the finest and most sensitive
SKIN These vests are high and low pecked,
long and short sleeved. with narrow rim oi silk
embroidery around the neck. They absorb all
moisture, can be changed twice or thrice week,
or every day II preferred, and keep the corset
and cotton or linen combination from contact
with the skin. They are not so much to wash
as "a pocket handkerchief, and add no appreci-
able or unpleasant degree of warmth to the
jority. and should be so considered, for though
not au incunlbrance they are still protective
and preserve the chest and lungs from slight
exposure and incidental changes of tempera-
ture. We no not sufficiently appreciate the
modern tendency TO adapt the best thing to the
largest number. This availability renders the
good thing "a double blessing.
FASHION IN UNDERWEAR.
1t is quite time that women understood that
there are certain parts OF their attire which
should not be subject to the Law of fashion and
change. Underwear, for example. should SIM
ply cover the bOdy-nOt enlarge, depress. or
compress it, The finest French underwear, eX-
cepting skirts worn next the dress, follows this
rule. Even hems are not allowed, and there
are no gathers. Tie garment is curved in at
the sides and center, the edges are hand-em-
broldered, and the ut Is perfect. Women who
buy underwear made at SOP shops simply be-
cause II Is cheap, without regard to It's form Or
style sometimes wearing 1T gathered in, some
times loose, sometimes shaped, can never have
their dresses ntted with precision or elegance.
The corset is even more inportant whatever
IT is. ii ought always to be of the same cut and
style, the same depth over the hips. the same
anything but an object of terror. It yields q
necessary support to the soft and f1eshy parts
frame upon which to build the dress. 1t is sci
entifically cut and curved to the body, and sup
piled with elastic side orgores, which adapt it to
delciite women and growing girls There are
summer corsets of a transparent, lace-like fab
ric traversed by slender plant lines of whale
bone, forming the frame, which are a luxury
even to look at, and may be worn the hot
| test day with ease and comfort. But there are
STAYS, m&chine-made, cnarsely corded, and
charged with steel bars, that quite alter the
| inquire OF the Weafer, vino perhaps thinks she is
improved because she is martyred in wearing
them or selects them because they are "a few
cents cheaper. This is selfmurder for less
ln0ucement than would be accepted by the
comnonest assassin, and destroys the effect OF
the finest costume.
STUDY OF COLOR AND MATERIAL.
The summer residents OF Newport always in
clude large number OF foreign VISITORS and
all viii have an opportunity of one exhibition,
which IS novel and OF very interesting charac-
ter Fashionable women have not made the IN
selves acquainted to any appreciable extent
with the wonderful silk fabrics developed by
| the genius and enterprise of Mrs. Candace
W neeier o! the "ASsnciated Artists in New
York, aided by the Willingness to cooperate
With her OF one or more American silk manu-
1acturIng urlnS. These have now been engaged
for years in working out Mrs. Wheclers de-
signs with conscientious desire to elevate the
standard OF American manufacture and pro-
ttuce fabrics more perfect in texture, truer in
design and more artistic in coloring than can
be found elsewhere. In other words, to produce
fabrics based on essential ART principles, instead
OF the mere WITNESSES OF fashion. The beauty
OF these genuine American products has been
better recognized by experienced visitors from
abroad than by our wealth and fashion a home
Mr.. and Mrs. Felix Moscheies Mrs Lanytry
Miss Helen Terry. and numerous others saw at
once the important addition offered to dress
as we'll as to art and decorative re-
sources, and made purchases of stuffs for
dresses as Well as of embroideries for pOr-
there's and dfaperies. Nr. CORVALLIS West
bought the material tor gown for his wife and
orders have been received from London for
stuffs for artistic costumes which here yet
Hisnlhg purposes only small collection of
these and of the artists embrOideries We're seen
at the Loan Exn1Dl tlOn Oh the society OF Deco
IatiNe Arts. Some Year, ~ moreI ago: but the
Newport display will be much more complete,
fTneTooms having been secured at the Casino
ToF FfIe purpose and in addition. ten original
tipf-tr!es, several OF them American III sub
JeErS. Sie Oh them designed by American artists
and worhed oat by the Associated Artists' EN-
proue1es, Will add a unique and purely arts. c
interest 10 the exhibition. The designs of these
are principally by Miss Dora Wheeler and Miss
RosiDa Emmett. The detail is a marvel of
color shading and beautiful effects The OBJ
portunlty for the study of color in the splendid
robe and glowing environment of the Peacock
Giri. IN the strong, suggestive tints OF THE
Zuni Maiden, in the softer and more poetic
figure OF "Minnehaha'' and Hawthorne's
"Hiida' will not be lost upon experienced If
conventional. women who can appreciate pic
ture effects in costume and know the value of
new ana suggestive combinations well as
Worth himself
COMMENCEMENT TOILETS
A curious feature of the colleges, and espe-
ciaNy OF the fashionable boarding school gradu-
alton exercises has been the revolution in ex-
ercses and toilets the part OF the girls, aided
and abetted OF course by their preseptors and
teachers. Heretofore the object all public
occasions mas been 10 make the young girl look
Ike tiie typical Observation-Disclosures er, or
Ike youth crowned with innocence and the
ignorance. in regard To all worldly matters
which has been considered essential to purity
AS for plays and acting and actresses, it is not
necessary to say in what esteem they have been
held by weli-resuiaIed institutions presided
over by theoiogians who mad failed in their
mission as preachers and had reverend doe
tors on their board of trustees. Yet such schools
have this year discarded the usual series of
didtctIc essays and given plays, dramatic
scenes readings, musical exercises, and the
IKE instead, the performers selected from
among the pupils not exclusively from the
graduating class and including the sma llest
girl VINO possessed special talent. In place OF
the white gown-a cross between the cOnfirma-
ton and wedding dress-in which the row Of
sweet girl graduates have always appeared
they have worn character dresses historic
costumes. esthetic toilets, or modern evening
dress-whaiever they preferred or considered
most appropriate Tor the occasion.
This action OF the schools, at least of some OF
them, ard generally of the most conventional
type Is due doubtless TO the demand for train
ing In dramatic reading and eiocution on the
part OF parents and partly TO WEAKNESS of the
old cut and dried exercises. Educated Amer
lean - ris are natural actresses natural readers
natural writers, natural painters up to a certain
point. That il, they have certain git of ex-
become artists because that needs time and
hard work in addition to great natural gifts
which they are not willing to put into a pur-
suit.
ACCESSORIEs.
The square braces which gave a Breton effect
to the dress is one of the newest designs or re-
vivals in trimming, and is particularly good in
the formation of over-dresses for Young girls
and children. The straight skirts facilitate the
use OF the tunic or Over-dress and the shoulder
braces with their pretty cluster of loops upon the
TOP OF the sleeve from both apron and overdress
and as useful as the other.
Hosiery and gloves are in corresponding
shades this season and are noticeable for their
quiet tones their soft tintS and perfect fit and