New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-12-20

MUCH FUN AND SOME SCIENCE.

asvor India Oct 3-Patience is much needed
nv pedestrian in the Himalayas, but 1t must De
kent carefully locked up in the depths OF ones IN
NOR consciousness Woe to the traveller whose meek
ness becomes apparent to his servants! fOr pul-
poses of offence and defence among the Wild noun
taneers it is we'll to lay in large stock OF those
abusive words and phrases in which the hhdus-
tani NAV be said, with due Difference to the 1aeic
md the Arabic. to excel all other tongues 1t will
also he found use ful to stand fow hours before
the looking-glass and practice any gloomy glareS
or faroc,ous frowns that may seem likely to have
an effect on the minds of chokedars bauyaS' XII
mutpars and coolies. A friend of niue mas way
INF rumpling up his HAIR that makes him look per
fectlv demonIac and which Instantly cows nc ii'''
obstreperous native into submission. 90 no' i'
gard this rs strictly legitimate ART; Il oah''
never be so demonstrative Peopie 10 ho'
ro+ives any more. and believe it is against INC
law even 10 clench ones fists But some sl"Po way
of making himself look scareiul," such as gin"
ing his teeth or rising to his full heiSht' Pui"e
down his brovs and drawing in his breath with
hiss. is absolutely essential to the tourist VINO
wishes TO travel in peace and quietness. h"Ni"S
.as,,rod b,mseIf Of the possession of these capa-
b;,;t;os one NAV proceed to the minor items OF YEA
ond sugar turmerlc and coriander, blunuerp"sSo'
o,d butterny-ncts The country produces nothlhe
INT milk mutton -four and ghee melted bu'ter',
md in the more freqnented parts, rice, salt anu
dak-burgalows. Sugar is only to De hau III '"o
towns where they sell pale Oro"h' u'''
talized houry substance UNDER that hfhe' o"'
,yos surprised in the remote villages toward the
Tihatan frontier TO find rock-candy used to con-
siderable extent: they call it misr when souu''S
like misery" but they think 1t the quln'
of bliss AS for dak-bungalows, they are ho'oiS VII
the Indian plan.
A dak-bungalow on the plains IS wcil "oi'" We
scribing as one of the things most characVo'''''0
India. and one also that is fast passing away !"
ION the dodo and the mammoth IN the llmDo oi 'i0
past one finds them at intervals Oh t"ol'o
thirteen miles along rough Himaayan roads 'h"t
come from no place anybody ever heard o. anu
Lad IN nowhere in particular. They are smaIl
s,ora bouses of rather forbid1ng appearance Oo'h
externally and internally. There are TWO ro"is'
each with table or two, three chars o""i-
novr 1iterllly four feet or bedStead, anu co''S'
mating on the floors; adjoining are smaHer roo,S
for dressing and bathing, the latter coh'aiiluH INC
80 i,pnortart article of furniture IN every
Indian bonse-the bath-tnb There is no bedHihg-
so roll of quilts, sheets and pillows is tne i'"l
able concOmitant of every HlmaiaHah 'ouiiS''
thoro ia no looking-glass bat it not considered
manly to shave when on the march, and the
accurate parting Of ones hair doesn't matter
own. There is. it is true, chokeddr or
xotcbnan in charge OF the promises, bu' he IS not
.xnacted tn do ANYTHING but salaam to you when
Won ary,ve and hold ont his hand for bakhshISh
when Won depart. Finally there Is neither SOAP
nor towel neither plates nor dishes. nor DOCKS hoI
nlctnres nor flower pots nor antlmaca sars' HUI
maioica nor dadOes. nor gin cocktals nor anS''"E
that makes life beautiful except one Tor there Is
generally divine view from the veranda. lhdeed
little else but the view vas thought OF wheh Inc
SITES of these bungalows were chosen. Ihey may
be built at unequal intervals along the roao 'n'H
may 10 unnecessarily placed on high bill well
away from the beaten track. they NAV be remote
from shade. from water from the village whence
e,,rIies are brought but there is always piano.
rama s,,read before the tourists eyes that makes
him forget the rough road and the dreary resting
place.
meant 10 spepd some months tramping about
Kumaon. a province which lies in the middle region
of the Hima,ayas east of Simla, and bordering on
Tibet and Nepaul When / reached Am)Fa' the
capital of the country, and my headquarters
there. the question of servants began TO force
itself mon nv mind. have heard of a man "ho
came to India and was amazed at the number OF
do1nestjcs in the houses Of his friends Tie deter
mined 10 settle down himself a an example 10 'he
ra4;vas y Roman among these Sybartes At the
and N n
lint he had dozen more servants than any
of his ne,gbbors. and an eephl INTO the bargain
In like manner thought could make the trip to
tho pindari Glacier with no attendants except the
three coolies who carried my bag gage. l end ID ~
taxing three additional men into nv employ, q
chuprassIe q slavey and a COOK. A chuprass - Il
peculiar Indian species OF the genus pOhceul'h'
To the great rt of the Indian people he emooll's
4be Fngl,sh Government and whether II red Jacket
and turbap he attends the VlceroY AT Slinia, Or
in no Jacket at all and legs conspicuousy pare ne
pudes the traveller through the country he repre-
SCENTS to the people all the tcrrors OF the ia"' IL u
coed to have a chuprassie who is little " znDner-
dusty ,aabrdasti) handed the path Of The
Sabib is much smoother III consequence. My chl-
,ras @ however is exceptionally mild. His name
is Parwanand and he is very usefnl to me. The
coolies are changed at every stage and Parwanand
goes about among the villages aud brings iFesh
ones: he sees that provisions OF all xmas are
brought to me- aud Is not above turning haPjacks
fcI breakfast or bringing the hot water Tor tea lie
il a fine-ooking, broad-shOuldercd son OF the
mountains He has the calm, regular brahmal
f.atnres and round his neck under bis white tunic
he wears the sacred white thread denoting his ugh
cos,e--be comes from Dwarahat where there are a
great many high caste peOple-and 1t insures ilm a
good deal of respect from the vii layers. 1t Is an
impressiye sight to watch him salaam to III: in the
morning and humbly ask permission 10 go ara cook
his breakfast. There Is something fatterng TO
ones selfestcem TO feel ones self really the master
of a lordy fellow like this. When man comes to
India and receives all this alteration from his SER
wants he is apt to be persuaded that he il prince
in disguise or something of the sort, and he acts
accordingly. Hesce the exceeding bumptiousness
of "griffius new arrivalsJ toward their untortu
nate attendants
NV next man procured at the curious httl'
sacred town OF Bagheswar two stages north OF
Almora. In the evening while walking on the ve'
randa of the dak bungalow, | was aware of E