The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1885-01-17

nous. The Russians have custom, which
it is said other northern nations adopt, Of
partaking of what they term snaorg0s, be-
fore seating themselves at table. On 8
side-table, on little glass or porcelain dishes
is arranged variety of condiments, such
as pickles, dried fish, and of course, the
never-failing caviare, for this purpose
The dinner-table is tastefully adorned with
fruit and flowers. The plate is superb, and
the decanters and goblets are often of love
ly tinted topaz. Formality in entering the
dining-roo is banished- walk in sans
csremonie- the Russians are inolin-
ed to think there is just shade Of vulgar
ity in indicating on this occasion the locus
standi of ones friends English Peters
burgers make a compromise. The hostess
takes the arm of gentleman, selecting per-
haps the creates tstranger, and precedes her
guests, who follow in pairs. There is often
Babel of tongues during dinner; and al
though French is generally the language
of society, Russians dining en- faneile con-
verse in their own The late lamented
Emperor encouraged this custom, which
had fallen into desuetude. He feared,
owing to the increasing tendency to the use
Of French, German and English that his
subjects were in danger of forgetting their
own language.
Ladies and gentlemen always leave the
table together, and as the hostess rises a
curious little ceremony takes place, the
guests making someslight acknowledgment
to her for the entertainment. Some kiss
her hand, others shake hands, and many
simply bow. A chance caller at dinner is
hailed with absolute cordiality.
Much has been said about Russian So
ciety being difficult of access. 1t is true
that the traveller who visits St Petersburg
without good introduction, may find him
self in a desert; yet an introduction to one
family of responsibility is sufficient. 1t
follows that the houses of all who move in
their circle are open to you.
When general invitations are given, they
are really expected to be acted upon.
The stoves, by means of which the
houses are heated, are very ingeniously
constructed One stove will heat several
rooms. 1t is filled with wood, which is
burned until calcined it is then well stirred;
the door of the stove is tightly shut, and
it does not require to be replenished for
several days The injurious effects of the
hot air are obviated by large jars of cold
water being kept in the rooms. 1t is GER
tainly delightful to feel pretty much the
same temperature throughout the house.
!
The freezing of the Neva generally takes
place in November 1t is curious phe-
nomenon at first small fakes of ice are
observed on the surface; these quickly be-
come such large sheets that the bridges
are hastily removed to prevent their being
injured or carried away. The freezing
process is wonderfully rapid. In one hour
person may make his way in boat
through the floating ice, and in the next
be able safely to walk over the stream. Z 1t
is pack-ice; and when once thoroughly fixed,
footpaths and carriage roads are smoothed
on the surface, and planted on each side
with rows of fir trees. The sledge races
on the Neva are very exciting. Nor are
rich ta6Leaue UiUants around, lacking. The
Peterhof Road, Palace Quay, etc., abound
in them. The hustle of the sledges, bells
of the horses, cries of the drivers, are
amusing; whilst the various costumes, costly
furs, and rich colors, contrast with the
white, crystalized city. Thanks 10 the
energy of the English, there is fine skat-
ing ground on the Neva, and the spectacle
to be witnessed there on any fine afternoon
is most animated ladies and gentlemen of
all nationalities skating with an ease and
sacor tarIe most charming, band of music
contributes to the enjoyment, and the illu
limitations which sometimes take place in
the evening are brilliant in the extreme;
grand dukes, mobiles of every degree and Of
all nations, ladies in the most picturesque
attire, join in the exercise. The fun may
be imagined. Little wooden huts are erect
ed on the ice, and are kept well heated for
the accommodation of spectators. Skating,
then, may we'll be conceived to have its
charms; but the chief national diversion is
afforded by the ice-hills erected on the is
lands in the Neva; these are consequently
well worth description. They are made
of timber raised to height Of some forty
feet, having steps on one side to ascend,
and on the other steep descent covered
with ice Water is repeatedly poured on
this, and the surface is kept as smooth as
glass. Down this ladies and gentlemen
seated on small, low sledges- with
tremendous velocity, and carried along to
the foot of another ice-hill, the steps are
climbed, and the experiment repeated; and
so on.
Many are the sights to be witnessed on
the Neva. Not the least curious are the
reindeer with their owners, the Samoides.
They generally come down from the far
north in the winter; and the funny dimin-
utive figures of these people, who, clad in
skins, drive standing, pole in hand, are very
remarkable. They considerably increase
the picturesque aspect of the scene.
Russian ladies are met with everywhere
now, so scarcely passing remark on their
manners and looks is needed. They are
often graceful, and sometimes beautiful.
Certainly thorough cultivation is less gen
eral than with u.s. Esprit, though, is not
lacking. The full ample cloak in winter
is universal making all appear to have much
the same figures. The fur inside this is
frequently of great value.
On many days the cold is intense; the
continuance and severity of it freezes the
ground from % to feet deep every win
ter, and the ice on the Neya varies from
20 inches to feet in thickness. One suf-
fers less from cold of 25 deg. Reaumur
or more, when there is no wind, than at II
dec. with wind And what skies often
surprisingly beautiful. Perhaps mass Of
dark billowy-looking indigo clouds have
gathered portentiously in the heavens; one
first impression is that violent storm is
approaching. Suddenly they break, the
gloomiest disperse, leaving magnificent
spectacle, pile upon pile of purple cloud
blending into intense reds, and vivid golden
tints-the different shades so clear; whilst,
perhaps, in the opposite horizon may be
seen delicate, really blue clouds. In an
intense, bright frost and dry atmosphere
the skies are truly picturesque, and at such
times walking is most exhilarating. But