The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-04-18
FASHION HINTS FOR SPRING.
The Coming Styles.

The bodices of q wash dress should never be
made tight-ftting
Colored and black grenadines viii be worn
lined with contrasting colors.
Gauze ribbons with satin or velvet stripes are
worn as sashes and for bonnet trimmings.
Beads are worn in profusion upon bonnets.
Sometimes coronet of three rows will be seen
on the brim.
Broad collars for children are in red, blue and
black materials, embroidered in white and col
ors, as well as in plain white cotton.
A black straw capote is edged with cut jet
beads and is trimmed with a profusion of vel
vet violets and aigrette of lilies of the valley.
The day has long gone by when all women
dressed alike, when any one style might De
singled out and pronounced the fashion to the
exclusion of all else.
Dressy parasols are ornamented with ribbons
tied around the handle and top and sometimes a
great bunch of artificial flowers is fastened on
one side, near the top
Parasols are this year more than ever works
of art The pagoda, the canopy and the fiat
Japanese are the leading shapes, and lace and
embroidery the favorite trimmings.
Small sun umbrellas are still the conservative
choice of economical women, who do not at
tempt to keep up with the height OF the fashion.
Elegants have parasol to match each suit
Stripes seem to be rapidly superseding plaids
in public favor. The rule is to use them for the
skirt. invariabe rule when the stripe is
broad, and the plain material for bodice and
drapery.
Jet not only holds it's own; it has made addi-
tlonal Roadway of late, and is used in lavish
abundance on dresses, wraps, bonnets and para
soils. The newest passementeries are in large
beads and look like jet jewelry strung together
The prevailing colors are vegetable greens
and brown in all its shades from darkest seal
to palest ecru. Tan and coffee colors are very
h,rtf ba~o Of oil fhA h7sOx 10
cork the identical light brown of the freshly cut
bark.
In light woollen goods are this season intro
duced many very beautiful low-priced fabrics,
which, in great measure, will take the place of
the muslins, cambrics and lawns, which depend
upon their irreproachabe freshness for success,
as nothing short of immaculate purity and an
uncrumpled condition justify the wearing of the
cotton gown.
Dresses for little girls are made with full
waists gathered into belt, and in the ever pop
ular Gretchen or peasant style, which has low
necked waist to wear over a guimpe. The
skirts in both styles are gathered, and consist of
two straight breadths hemmed and tucked. or
with only hem. The guimpe is often made
with the frock.
Plain skirts, that is, skirts without founces or
pleatings, with the long straight apron front
narrow, full-back drapery caught in one large
puff over the tournure, are growing in favor, and
may almost be said to be the accepted style Tor
cashmeres, fannels and the pretty and service
able American cloths for women's wear.
Skirts which are a succession of founces to
the very waist are still worn for airy fabrics,
and tucked skirts, with the tucks overlapping
each other, or with slight spaces between, the
tucks sometimes in clusters, sometimes gradu-
ated, sometimes all the same width are perhaps
the ruling idea for simple dresses in fine WOOL
ems, plain ginghams, white lawns and the like.
To- ~
or no fullness at the top and through the waist,
and in many instances only fitting bodice is
worn under the corset, and nothing is between
the corset and the outside corsage of cloth suits
or slken costumes, that is where the waists are
lined so that the underwear cannot show
through and the corset should appear to be a
part of the form, not mere support
Beautiful church costumes are shown, made
of satin surah figured with fine small flowers
over grounds of pale golden brown nuns gray,
olive, fawn beige cygne, SWAMI sort of sage
gray-and lovely deep but distinct shade of
blue. These elegant fabrics are made up very
plainly, with three full breadths ir the back,
and round waist, with folds of plain goods laid
over the front of the corsage. The deep blue
ground is brocaded with tiny golden buds.
Standard authorities on dress concur in pro-
nouncing straight, FULL long draperies the cor
rect thing, and the readers of some of them
might reasonably conclude that nothing else was
fashionable On the contrary, ruffied, pulled
and pleated skirts still endure; pOlonaises with
side paniers are seen on some of the newest
French dresses and box-pleated and knitted
skirts with scarf drapery, are to-day as popu-
larly worn among ladies of fashion in
Paris as they were the first season of their adop
ton.
A leading designer of patterns in New York
sends out, among other valuable models, adapted
particularly for summer toilets, "Clariee'
waist, which is made with deep yoke front and
back, to which fat pleats applied to form the
lower portion of the bodice. These pleats, how
ever, do not extend across the entire width of
the waist, but laid in the center of the front
and back only. At each side, and under
the arms, smooth. glove-ftting side-forms
adjust the waist to the figure as closely
as a jersey, and thus give the entire bodice
trim and neat appearance quite opposite in eff
feet to many of the yoke waists which so many
ladies at all inclined to stoutness admire, but
dare not venture to wear on account of their
broadening effect. AS this is undoubtedly a
season in which round waists are to lead in pop
ularity, it is well to know that the ethereal and
slender people are not alone to monopolize this
peattv fashion