Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-05-02

Unread upon white cloth.
Dut these combinations require taste
ana judgment. In common shades and
materials they lose all depth and softness
ana suggest nothing but crude contrast.
rome and expression are now sought after
at least they are beginning to be the
phrases most used in regard to dress.
whether all those who employ them
understand their true and large meaning
Is not at all likely; but it is at least bet
ter to think of dress as meaning some
thing than nothing, though what that
something is be little vague and unde-
lined. Tone implies quality, and the re-
latlon of every part or elemental attribute
to the whole. This at once lifts dress
into the region of the intellect, while ex-
preston brings it into relation with art.
Once women lose their dependence upon
selfcOnstituted authority and begin to
think sensibly about dress as in regard to
other things, and it will take on quite
new character 1t will be expressive OF
the woman, Of her tastes and aspirations.
DRESSING AT THE THEATRE.
In the production of a recent play at
the Madison Square Theatre ("Sealed In
structions") the general tone of the per-
tormance was well preserved in the
dresses, which exhibited nothing of the
sensational extravaganza which formerly
dlsgraced the stage. but suited each char
acter and expressed its influence while
assisting to form harmonious and we'll
balanced whole. An indoor dress was of
white wool, plain princesse, with dark
velvet standing collar, cuffs and belt, An
OtheF dress worn by the same young lady
was OF gray cashmere, perfectly plain,
with skirt gathered at the back and a belt
OF soft silk matching the wool, with fiat
loops at the side. A young girl wore an
accordion-plaitedd dress of pink and white,
and afterward a white tucked surah. with
sash. For an indoor dress the lady of the
house, leader of fashion, wore a trained
prlncesse dress of old gold, ruilled in
'front.' with lace, over an underdress Of
brown velvet. For grand reception she
displayed the only magnificent toilet seen
during the evening-a trained prin-
cesse dress OF rich white satin, en-
broidered upon the entire front with
gold cut beads and chenille shaded from
unbleached white to brown. The fan con-
sisted OF fine long curled ostrich plumes
set in carved and inlaid pearl, and tied
with cluster of satin loops of mingled
shades. A gOyerness in attendance upon
young daughter of the house upon this
occasion wore black silk and a wide col
lar of white lace draped in a fichu at the
neck. Upon Christmas eve, at Counts
AbAoO HI A1hGA0uAis INC JOuuS ldOACA vi lAb
family were Wine-cOlOred aud purple me-
rino, the latter trimmed with black velvet;
the elder lady smOke-c0lOred princesse
dress OF wool over a satin petticOat Of
darker shade, which only showed a little
of its pleated front.
The opening of the new Lyceum theatre
was much anticipated event, and drew
together a crowded and very fashionable
audience. The arrangement of the seats
IS excellent for the display Of toilets, and,
for the first time in many years, ladies
appeared in the balcony seats in "full
dress'-that is, without bOnnets. They
did not, however, go to the extent of low
neck and short sleeves or no sleeves at
all. Some wore lace sleeves, and many
wore dinner dresses, open in front or cut
square, but the majority, of course, wore
the conventional bonnet and some pretty
Arrangement Of lace about the ueck. 1t
was really fine opportunity for obsery
ing the novelties in the detail Of toilet.
which now makes so important part of
the change from season to season and
determines the exact status Of one woman
Of fashion to the critical eyes of another.
1t was very noticeable that no figured
stuffs We're used for basques or bOdIces.
All were of plain, self-cOlOred velvet or
satin, or fine silk plush, not
always like the skirt, but form
ing what is called a ''theatre" bodice,
with which any short dark skirt can be
worn. These basQues were short on the
hips, but pointed in front, and either
pointed or arranged as a small position
at the back. When high thev were edged
in some instances with beads, the most
conspicuous being thTee-in different
parts of the hOuse-One of which was
ruby velvet edged with gold beads.
another wine-cOlOred satin edged with
garnet, and the third amber plush edged
with clear amber, which also formed a
necklace at the throat. This last dress
was a study in soft tints running into
brown. A wrap thrown aside was of
amber satin covered with a shaded en-
brOidery in amber and browns, and edged
with a silk and beaded fringe to match.
The bonnet repeated the tints and the de-
sign in its embroidered crown, rich lace
front and fine gold aigrette.
GOLD EMBROIDERY.
The display of gold embroidery, gold
embroidered lace, gold ornamentatiOn on
the head gear, and rich beading was sur
prlsing, because it was not cloud" or vul-
gar. The reason of this was simply that
the cOlors were so soft and well blended.
that they did not produce a pronounced
effect. The difference between the arts
tic use of genuine materials, and the
ignorant employment Of cheap and mere
ly snowy ones is one naturally OF cost as
well as taste, and it is only at certain
places ana under exceptionally favOring
circumstances that the best can be found.
A new and effective finish to the neck
of some dresses consisted of double puff
of crepe lisse set upright and dotted with
colored chenille to match the dress. Be
low this, in some instances, were folds Of
dotted lace, terminating in a wide and
long iabOt in front. Others displayed a
sort of interior fcbu-what was formerly
known as a habit skirt-edged with sew
eral rows of crumped crepe lisse dotted
like the standing rufus with chenille in
colors.
But several pairs Of the gloves worn
displayed perhaps the most striking nov
city. Some OF these were in light ecru
tints, hand-painted upon the backbone
in tiny sprays of trailing arbutis. These
were worn with a handsome dress Of
primrose silk covered with black lace.
The bonnet was Of black lace, the crown
studded with enameled flies, the garni-
ture an aigrette Of primrose feathers
tipped with gold. Other gloves had arms
of transparent gapze in leaf design, veined
with gold ana silk embroidery, and out
lined with the kid, which was also EN-
brodered or stitched TO produce this
effect. Nearly all tire gloves worn with
sleeves which displayed them wholly
were ruilled with lace at the top.
DRESSING FOR CHARITY.
Society people are never troubled by