Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-11-07

studies," on and off the stage, during the past
ten years, have infused the finest ana most PIC
turesque element which has existed Anso e4ciU
sive society" dressing.
| Brown. in different Shades, is more used than
Of leather and seal Brown are united in ooats
ulsters, jackets and some OF the prettlest on sne
| tatlormade suits. a polonaise OF sea.-oLOw wv
| over striped, with ottoman and bourette IN
varying widths, in real brown, bo11iegreen,
red and blue, with lines OF yellow. Inc single
pointed rerers upon the point of the bodice was
| faced with fawn-color, and ornamented Win
euff se and standing collar repeated the color
| and design OF the rerers. Another seal-brown
dress had a plain plush skirt, with broad
the bottom, and coat with plush vest and
| coachman's cape, bordered with mar.
band the ba1 Dated at tSe
back, beted at the side, and has fine clustered
florence. with short apron in front. Between the
box -paiting and the side plaits are two straight
| bands of otter. and bands of the same edge the
jacket and form cuffs and standing collar.
Long garments, cloaks and ulsters are worn by
| ladies, but Jackets are preferred for young
women, as they are so much more youthful and
do not conceal or crush a pretty walking dress
rerers turned back from the throat, disclosing a
minute portion of the vest, which reappears
in dark blue and cream, in two shades Of brown,
in red and white with gold ornamentatiOn and
in dark green and cream with gold bra1dlng.
LANCERS' JACKETS AND HATS.
introduced among its autumn novelties jackets
with hats to match, the arrangement of trim
mngs as well as materials harmOnizing in
every particular. A jacket known as the 18th
I4ancers is accompanied by high cavalry hat,
| ring, an exact copy in every detail of true cav
airy plume; i'm fact, they are supplied according
to especial order, by an English military man.
ufacturer. and cost TO the house itself
eight and nine dollars each. The hats are Of
fine cloth, bordered with real astrachan and
4 fri cd, ,nI1x with hlad
passed three times round the crown. Ihe
jacket is cut high, with standing collar
h hc cuts Of pr as an ana s.f on Color
| or lighter shade of brown, and upon which
| braided cords are festoOned. The "Gendarme"
| hat is turned up in front and the Napoleon" Is
| of velvet, red, blue green, with astrachan.
turned up in wide, half points all round, upon
| soft, indented crown. long autumn ulster Is
are gold rings in fine gold wire, overlapping
| each other. The standing collar ia made to cor
| respond and the cape is lined with dark GRIM
son silk. a very handsome wrap has cloth sides
! and plated plush in the same shade, front and
| back. Buttons forming moons ana carved are
| New fur sets displayed by the same house con-
sist of capes, nigh cut and stylishly shaped, but
| emitting the ugly bunch on the shoulders and
/ bordered with short, natural fur tails. Muffs
are made to match, the pocket placed d1agOn-
ally, near the top, for the pocketbOOk and hand
| kerchief, and the head of the animal and the
| tasseled tails forming and ornamenting the
! flap which remains in place, and Is not spoiled
pocket. MuffS are also made to match jackets
| in cloth and velvet, trimmed with astrachan
and silk cord or with Alaska sable.
TRIMMINGS, EPIDEMIC IN BEADS AND UNCOM-
PROMISING HATS.
The new trimmings form borders or bands,
or ornamental figures. Fringes are little used
and the tongue-shaped chenille friDges, some
of them made with head upon each point,
others in double and triple rows, are selling for
a song Bands of astrachan, bands of otter or
f.t.x f1Sf
color upon which are executed braidngs or
ennbr0deries, and for dresses beaded paSsemen-
terles, which can be divided into independent
ornaments. and used singly, in groups, or con-
tfnuousiy as band or border. Beads and beaded
embroidery have become epidemic; the wooden
..chapiet beads hsve'.cauSi on quickly, and
become popular, that their life will be likely
to he a short one. Yet they are tine most real
things of this kind we have had for a long time
ana, prettiIy carved, possess genuine artistic
beauty. AS for the glass beads, they simply
show well in good combinations, and with re-
dresses have been received lately covered with
lovely LEAKAGE in apaline beads wrought close
ly, SO that every thread of the founda-
ton is covered. This work is done
upon tule and costs sixty dollars
per breadth; it should be placed over satin and
the embroidery repeated upon the plastron of
the low bodice. There is great deal of show,
but very little reality in what are called 'jetted'
trimmings, be they white, black or eolored.
be found, even at the best houses; messed
machine-made headings and trimmings are put
ailke upon bOnnetS ana jackets, at forty and
sixty dollars, and bonnets and jackets at ten
and fifteen. When jet was less used, some dis
elimination was possible in its SELECTION; one
could get fine, real cut jet, by paying for it.
Now it cannot be found. To represent value
manufacturers only pile on quantity.
Striped stuffs, and even shaded bOrderings
are cut up for trimming, but braiding velvet
and fur take the lead, astrachan being perhaps
more used than any other one material. The
knife" effects in braiding obtained by setting
narrow cord-iike braid upon edge, and which
were fashionable last year, have subsidized.
Probably one reason is the necessity of sewing
1t on by hand, or purchasing special and re-
Gently invented attachment to a sewing ma
chine to execute it, But doubtless a more
potent cause than this will be found in the
general tendency toward adoption of such
trimmings as are put on fiat, or are part Of the
material itself. Tie fine wool materials, with
the effect of being lined with q solid color have
been previously referred TO. Another imported
design has the front of the dress covered with a
fiat braid in basketwOrk, a contrasting color or
shade in velvet or plush showing through the
spaces left by the plating. The crowns Of bon
nets made in this way, and muffs of it have
been ordered to match dresses.
One feature of the French hats and dresses is
the arrangement of trimmings upon the back,
quite as much upon the front of the crowns
and bodies. The violin plating upon the back
is revived, and braces which cross the should
ers are carried down the back as well as the
front. The ugiiness of the high hats is exagger-
ated by the uncompromising attitude of the
straight, stiff wings and feathers with which
they are decorated, and when these are ranged
all around. or even on two sides--fr0nt and
backbone feels that life offers no compensation
for the infection of such a horror Feathers are
decidedly hostile in their appearance this sea-
son, and are grouped without any regard to
| sympathy or the natural correlation Of forces.
| II they only stand up straight and reach far
enough they are all right. Plumes of lovely,
curled ostrich feathers are neglected sold for
a song, while the rage for the wings of the barn
/ yard fowl, such as are used in the country tor
| Hearth busters" continues.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS OF "ARIZONA WOOD"
Corduroy is still used, the grey being gen.
| orally preferred, and buttons ia old (oxydized)
silver, with carved heads upon them, constitute
/ ing the ornaments. The finish, however Is
very fine, silk Innings being used and the best
tailor stitching. Its use is also nearly limited
! TO little boys and jackets for ladies; skirts of
| corduroy having been found heavy and un-
| adaptable. There are q great variety OF new
| clasps, buttons and other ornaments, in old
| silver, bronze carved wood and renaissance
antique carved heads and small Rhine stones,
turquoiseS, Indian or Bohemian garnet, tiger
eyes, mOOnstones. cats eyes and agates. In
! this connection may also be mentioned the DOS
sibilities suggested by novel display of articles
made from agate" and '.jaspar' woods. oh
| tanned from Arizona, and "agatized' or 'jas-
| pariZed by the action of minerals in the soil
and water surrounding embedded trees and
perhaps precipitated by volcanic action. What
ever the cause. the result Is a wood apparently
| as hard as stone, containing the color of the
| ruby, the amethyst, the tiger-eye, the moon
stone, the sun-stone, the cats eye and the
blood-stone. with the exquisite lines and
delicate tracery of the agate the ONYX the
jaspar and the comedian. It Is also Capable
OF receiving a polish fully equal to that Of the
agate and jaspar from the Ural mountains
The discovery of this precious siiicified wood