Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-01-10
FASHIONS OF THE NEW YEAR.
how To DRIES The HAIR-NEw FIGURED sTUFFs
OPERA BONNErs-EyESING SHADES-RECEP-
TON roILETS-TRICoTRINE, Ere
Murrs and bonnets must match

1RTC0TRINE Is IIe incoming dress fabric
EMBROIDERED handkerchief are no longer
fashionable
LACE and hemstitching are the trimmings for
dressy handkerchiefs.
UNDERsKIRTs are made very full in the back
% supply the hustle effect
TRICCTRINE is the rival OF coupe cloth for
street and carriage costumes.
BRIGHT RED pure white and black toilets are
the favOrites for evening wear
BALL DRESSES occupy the attention of dress
makers and society women az the moment
TIE INITIAL or MONOGRAM in the corner of
the handkerchief is the only decorative en-
brOidery permitted and that should be ONLY on
those for everyday use
THERE Is An EFFORT to introduce the Hun
Carian hanging oversispve for dav dresses i'm
place of the long-es tahiishrd coat sleeve. and
pulled sleeves for evening toilets.
HANDKERCHIEFS are NJ LONGER dfsnlaved
peeping from the pocket or HANGING from the
fan handle or belt or bosom. The depth of the
pocket Oh reticule is tie place for the haadker-
chief. according to the latest dogma Of fashion,
AT 4 VERY elegant ''germaE' recently. a tall
slender blonde wore q dress OF black velvet with
fun white lace vajstcoat which was barred
across with black velvet st7ars fastPTcd h. tiny
diamond buttons. No flow rrs OF other orna-
meDts were worn. except diamond arrow in
her hair.
The LITTLE PELEEINES OF seal or silk plush
are the rage Mt present These look exceeding
ly jaunty and chic upon tall. slender women but
when the weather grows severe a lady had far
better don her longer. less graceful wrap than
TO hazard neuralgia or rheumatism for life per-
haps. for the ffeetiug satisfaction Of few hours
promenade in an unreasonable wrap.
SILVER AND GOLD flowers blossom out upon
the ary-tnted tullcs and silk mulls worn for
hall tni or sill 70
match is the garhiture for these. Chenille.
mother-o'-pearl and span giles are also used tor
emDrOidering some the more expensive dane
ing dresses of India cauZr. the price for these
toilets being quite above the reach of the Ordi-
nary purse.
EXQUISITE light-colOred veilings and other
fneall wool fabrics in evening shades are brought
out for dresses for young girls. the tucked or
killed skirts being of these materials and the
cOrsage and tuaic being of Ottoman or satin of
a similar shade. with the surface dotted with
tufted chenille Of much deeper shade. The
laces worn with such toilets are either Oriental
Saienciennes or Newport point.
An IMMENSE importation of figured stufTs is
displayed designed both for costumes and man
ties. among which are dark amber and beige
grounded cloths Of finest quality in frise or CT
sele effects. being figured with brilliantly shaded
blossoms and foliage. and formed of plush vel
vet or chenille. Some of the designs of the most
expensive materials are exceedingly novel, and
show very artistic mingling OF a number of
rich but contrasting coOTs.
BEAUTIFUL LITTLE OPEN HOOPS are among
the latest fashions for the holiday season. They
are made of the ereamiest of lace cascaded over
q small triangle of tinted satin CLOSELY Quilted
The first plating of lace is very full. and waves
and droopS in the most neglge way above the
fluffy halo Of hair. Strings TO match the lining
tie under the chin. En- suite are muff and peIe-
rinp vi a off HnyVnTs ba
tied down with ribbons matching those upon
the bonnet.
COSTLY EMBROIDERED sATINs and velvets in
small designs are much used for opera bonnets
this winter. Upon a Partisan model lately
shown, the crown which consisted ofcream-white
. velvet. was wrought with beetles In fine gold
thread picked out with gold. The brim was
edged with pearl beads. and faced with pink
velvet cluster of dropping ostrich tips half
covered the crown in front and the strings were
OF cream satin, with narrow ones of pink velvet
to tie inside.
NOVEL PLACE is now given for the dia-
mond or other gemmed lace-pIn or brooch
which. as the very latest caprice of IN mode is
fastened at the back of the gown: this onlv
when the bodice fastens behind. The lace pin
Is placed where the lacing begins. Just here IL
would be well TO say that previous to lacing
gowns they should first be securely closed with
i've or six strong hooks: this takes the stress off
the faces, ana also spares many an ungraceful
and careless looking sight.
The HAIR is now arranged in every fashion TO
suit the features and general STYLE MANY who
dragged their hair up and found how Ill it be-
came them, have taken il down from its pfnna-
Gle. and look once more like ordinary mortas
They have discovered that suitability. not Ia
mode, is the grand desideratum Where the
hair Is cOled low. the ''i.angtry" stvle vet
leads and where the coronet roifFura is bpcom-
inr ~ RIM NTH
headed pins. is most generally adopted for full
dress occasions
LOVELY EVENING TOILET for a brunette is
made of white satin foulard brocaded with fiue
gold buds and leaves. The dress is cut az a
trained princess robe and laces down the back
with gold silk cord. The front breadths are
slasned. thus forming panels which are lined
with plain gold satin, with fan-pleatings also of
the gold satin. set between each panel These
pleatings are delicately yelled with lace and so
also Is the narrow bdLdyertse which borders the
foot of the entire skirt-this also OF gold satin.
laid in fan-pieatings There is full drapery OF
the satin fOUlard upon the back OF the skirt
and the pointed bodice IL cut with easement"
front and garnished with cascades of lace and
cluster OF Jaeque and Isabella roses
AT RoLLER-SKATING EXHIBITION in Sew
York the other evening lovely young girl
wore dress of amber corded silk. kilt-pleated
above e fOur-inch rufie Of the same fabric set
on IN box peats. With this was worn iaunty
cutaway French guard coat OF black velvet
lined with royal cardinal and edged all around
with pleatings OF cardinal satin which showed
some inches beyond the edge Of the long pam
elled fronts There was full Fedora vest Of
the amber satin, which showed in fine contrast
against the black velvet coat. and the draping
IN the back was caught up with royal cardinal
eatln ribbons Turkish fez OF dark red vel
vet completed the costume.
AMONG fancy ball costumes the peacock"
''cat" and the sea are odd and the two last
decidedly original. The ''cat" costume Is of
white satin, with the skirt. shoulder straps and
cOiffCre adorned with cats heads the white
gloves are covered tO the finger nails with white
snort pile fur or plush. the stockings also with
white fur ana simulated cats claws extending
over the slippers at the toe The sea wears
sea-green satin SKIRT and bodice bordered
with sea weeds and grasses. headed with crabs
shrimps. star fish. coral and shells the pale
green game Overskirt similarly decorated the
long hair flowing over the shoulders. sea-gul
with outsDread wings FOR couture ornament
and sea-gull wings for shoulder knots. These
dresses are for very young girls only.
THE FASHIONABLE MODIsTEs declare that for
some reason there was great falling of in the
demand for costly and elaborate New Year
dresses this season, and that ''made over
gowns which have already done duty. have been
IN uncommon order. IL Is also noteworthy
that where new gowns have been ordered they
= have been exceptionally elegant and rich As an
example or this society lady who j. to be in