Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-04-04

Wv AShNh ipOHu u hdbG vi SILK COILQn
or linen; the others are mere threads of
baser metal. which tarnish immediately
ana spoil the articles TO which they are
applied.
A novelty introduced last season. but
widely popularized this spring, consists
OF an open mesh material in pale ecru
UNITS upon which designs are printed in
sou Ole c0loTs-quaint heraldic devices.
II is me canvas grenadine, known as
etamlne, and appears largely in handker.
cchleis and scarts, the shields, borders and
lines, dots or stripes fiat and representing
tapestry or cross stitch. These are used
Tor the trimming OF hats and bonnets-the
scars for the former, the handkerchiefs
LOT lhe latter-the prettiest simply pinned
on and left in soft folds and bows without
any addition OF wings or aigrettes or pom
pons or hideOu9 punches OF mixed flowers
with gold or green metallic grass.
transparent bonnets are light looking
and very pretty. The black are ietted:
the IVORY or cream lace embroidered in
pearls, Yeined sometimes with gold. A
very costly imported bonnet for evening
wear is of fine lace, embroidered with a
mixture of pearls and Opalescent beads
with yeining Of pale gold. The feature
OF the trimming is an aigrette of eXquis-
ltely tinted marabout feathers, tipped
with gold. Grape in rose color, gray and
white is revived as Il material for BON
nets and etamine ribbons, which are con-
sidered elegant, are embroidered with
triple dots of chenille in two neutral
tlnts or coIors.
FEATURES IN DESIGN AND DECORATION.
The trinity which is found in nature
and underlies all art is conspicuous in
design this year. Instead of single dots
we have them in threes; we have the new
ordinary clover leaf pattern in outline on
the new foulards, three small rings inter-
locked, or three tiny feathers, stiff and
prlm, set up like Prince of Wales plume.
Sometimes three half moons will overlap
each other, Or a triple effect be given to "a
minute flower, its leaf and bud passed
through a ring.
Round figures are also in great vogue:
some in outline, some filled, some half
solid, the other halt traced in a fret or
lace work, and others outlined or inter-
locked. The wafer patterns have mainly
disappeared. The figures are smaller,
show less of the contrasting color aud are
In finer lines. The immense detached
figures of last year have wholly disap-
peared. They never were fit for women's
dresses. Natural looking as the rose or
tulip might be, each one said: "Look at
me" and the whole effect was noisy and
distracting. Dressmal1ers, too, were
much embarrassed by them, finding il i'm
possible to adapt them to the fitted
basques, tight sleeves and narrow backs.
which still prevail, and cut into petal and
tendril in merciless manner. Figures
are detached and somewhat large upon
China grapes intended for house dresses,
but the colOrs are very soft, the shading
delicate, and the designs do not consist OF
one flower, but of a small group or spray.
Moreover they are not cutup into basques.
but are made into Vatican house and
tea gowns with the long lines and loose
plat in the back and lace cascaded in
front. Greek designs the particular form
of hOneysuckle which is so familiar in
Greek art, and scroll patterns appear in
ribbons and particularly upon the etamine
fabrics used as draperies with plain ma
terials. There's not much discrimination
in this arrangement. 1t is not Greek
meeting Greek, but Greek hobnObbing
with Roman and Egyptian, and all class
ed by polite and well read sellers as sine
de-eUdI"
One hard and unbeComing fashion has
been discontinued, at least abroad. 1t
never did find much favor except with
those who are bound to copy any mode,
no matter how absurd, which they are
told is the latest in style or fashion. 1t is
that of leaving the edge of the dress next
the skin without the soft intervention OF
lace or tulle. There is perhaps one woman
or one young girl in hundred thousand
who can stand this close contact with hard.
dark and unsympathetic materials, but
not one who is not improved by lighter
Lines and a gentler influence next the
skin.
HOW SPRING GOWNS ARE MADE.
The Worth costumes which have been
seen this spring are made without drapery
or looping. The skirts hang in folds at
the back over very moderate tournure.
which is removable, and consists of a
small hair cushion, or ''mattrass" as it is
sometimes called. for cloth and heavy
silk, or a light spring "impr0ver'' but
toned into the back Of the flounced petit
coat for lighter dresses.
A combination costume in plain smoke
and velvet figured wool shows a perfectly
plain skirt, which hangs in large folds at
the back and has no OrnamentatiOn eX-
cept straight side panels of the figured
materials enclosed in tives in stripes Of
velvet the same shade as the figures. The
high waist and sleeves are of the figured
material a Swiss bodice Of plain velvet
completing the costume.
A dress of ecru vicuna is embroidered
all over with shaded leaves in brown che
nile and finished with a little Persian
jacket of soft, fine, silk plush in a medium
shade of the brown.
The old fashion is revived of sleeves
differing in material from the dress. and
very stylish costumes are made of bro
caded velveteen with pointed bodice Of
peateG surah, beaded plastrOn and
strip of the surah covered with the bead
ing let In as an insertion into the
sleeves of brOcaded velveteen the length
Of the arm.
The late textures and designs in the
nOnpareil are 50 rich without being heavy,
and have so much the appearance of silk
velvet that they can be and are worn by
the most ia tldiOus, while the plain are
especially desirable for making up as
skirts and win wool, because more SER
viceable and less susceptible to the inllu-
ence of weather than silk velvet.
ADDRESS OF BLACK sURAH
mounted on a thin twilled silk lining has
a pleating round the bottom; straight
full back,very slightly draped at the sides;
and q front draped across IN irregular
folds. On one side are some loops of satin
ribbon; on the other cascade OF hand
some Pusher lace, which is revived this
season, and when of good quality is fair
imitation Of Chautily. The bodice, cut in
two short points front and back, with q
fun LEAKAGE OF lace at the back, has
lengthwise tucks and cascade OF lace IN
front in addition TO the standing collar OF
narrow folds finished with interior lace,
the sleeves matching.
A pretty house costume for girl con-
sists OF "A skirt Of red wool, striped three
times round. above the tucked dem, with
black ribbon velvet. The Oyerdress is of