Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-08-09
THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
TIE NORTHERN Island GEN.

Pittsburgh Dispatch says: Once more
at the capitall And now, after ten
weeks almost constant travelling, |
shall settle down for q stay Of several
months among these hospitable people
and give my Pittsburgh readers some
idea Of our surroundings and manner
Of living.
Since my first arrival here / have
been on voyage around the island--a
privilege accorded all passengers on
these steamers during the summer
months, and accompanied by no extra
expense.
Leaving Reykjuvik on bright, warm
afternoon, we steamed westward down
the Taxa ford, rounded the Reykja-
ness, and turned eastward along the
south shore; once more in the broad
Atlantic. We were congratulatiRg our
selves on the prospects Of a fine voyage
along this coast, which is so often
shrouded in dense mist, aud view of
Hccla, who stands about thirty miles
inland, rising grandly above the neigh
boring mountains. In the first we were
disappointed, but the latter was pre-
scented to us in manner so beautiful
and sublime as impressed it indslibly
upon the memory Of st least one Of that
party Of gay coydgeurs.
As soon as we were we'll on our
course the weather changed rapidly
and we were destined to enjoy or rath-
or endure the usual two days Of fog
and wind--of lie-to-and-heave-the-lead
westher--which had disappointed many
another traveller in this part of the
world. About midnight we arrived at
the Westmann Islands, and, bringing
up under the lea Of one of the towering
rocks, FASTENED to discharge a few pas
seDgers and packages into the small
boats of the islanders before we should
be again drifted ont at sea. One woman
objected TO climbing down the rope
ladder, but as the gangways could not
be used in this sea there was no alter
native, so the mate hoisted her rather
tnceremoniously over the rail and
started her downward.
THE BISHOPS wIPE OVERHEARD.
About half way she loosoned her
hold and fell confused mass into the
boat that just then happened to be
underneath. AS soon as she could
scrspe herself together, she looked up
and bestowed on US few vigorous and
well-punctuated sentences, to which,
under different circumstances, we might
have applied various meanings but, as
she was the wife Of a bishop and we
understood not a word, we were chari-
table in our snppositions and only
smiled in return.
With the exceptions that one Of our
new arrivals on board took an epileptic
turn, and some Of the packages would
land in the sea, however nicely they
were aimed at the boats, everything
went off well and we were soon away
again tossing and pitching, everything
shrouded in the deepest mist. No sound
but the kissing OF the wind in the rig
cling and the deep-voiced whistle as, at
short intervals, it proclaimed through
the fog-lI-e-e-e-e-e-s-r-e.
Proceeding very cautiously and
slowly, literally feeling our way along,
we stopped every now and then to take
soundings, and, at times, remained for
hours tossing upon the waves or stand
ing directly out to sea, the only safe
course to pursue. About noon Wed
nesday went forward into the second
cabin precincts, and, perched upon a
steam wndlass, was walking straight
into the hearts Of our many Icelandic
and Faroese passengers by the eKecu-
ton Of few rhapsodies upon . wheezy
mouth organ, when was summoned to
the bridge to look at Hecla. Far
over our port bow, through the
only opening in the dark dome that
hung over us like an inverted Scotch
kettle, we saw his Majesty in all the
glory Of his mantle of snow shining
brightly in the sun, and outlined cold,
clear and still against a background of
beautiful blue sky. Rising proudly
above his two smaller brethren, he
seemed to have lifted the curtain and
vOuchssied us view Of the group. I'm
mediately there was a rush for water
colors and sketch-blocks, but he ap-
peared to object, and, before even our
artist could capture one of his lightning
portraits in color the veil had fallen, and
there was nothing to be seen but the
restless ocean and few remarkably
small Frenchmen scudding along under
Close-reefed sails.
When the fog cleared on Thursday
we found we were OF the southeast
coast and already beyond the first two
places at which we were to stop. Not
wishing to run so far back for so small
a cargo, the captain decided TO skip
BernGord, the first place, and run back
only to EskeGOrd. The fordS or bays,
in which all but the south coast Of the
island abound, are narrow arms Of the
sea, running farin between the mountain
chains that radiate from the land
like the fingers from ones palm,
only not with the same regular
ity. Not more than a few miles wide
at the mouth, they grow gradually mar
rover as they proceed inland until ter
minating at the foot Of 4 small valley
beyond. To get some idea Of this lay
your hand, palm downwards, upon a
table and slightly spread the fingers.
Now your hand represents the island
and the table the sea, and calling the
distance from the tips of the fingers to
their junction with the hand twenty
miles, you have some idea of the pro-
portions, except, perhaps, that the
mountains are rather high.
THE MOUNTAINS OF ICELAND.
Everywhere these mountains rise
abruptly from the sea, often standing
perpendicular wall hundreds Of feet
in height, and then sloping gradually
back to the peaks above. Here and
there along the sides, on seine slope less
steep than the rest, surrounded by
few acres Of ground which presents no
very striking contrast to the lava
waste surrounding it, can be seen
the turfcovered huts of the Ice
lsndic farmer, and at the end Of |
the gerd-on the webb between the