Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-02-28

Mr.. ]. ]. Mitchell of New York. editor Of the
Fashion Review and American Tailor" who
was recently in this city, spoke to q STAR re-
porter OF the great improvement of the mer-
chant tailors of this age and land, and said the
Europeans now get many of their fashions from
this country. Formerly" he said, 1.-The repre-
sentative merchant tailor might be said to be a
son OF poor parents, receiving pattern plates
twice year, and being fully satisfied. Now,
however, the merchant tailor is not content
with even the quarterly plates issued, and is
surprising those of other countries. They are
now ever alive for something new, to have not
only the latest patterns for their customers, but
the latest improvements of tools and convent
ences for their business. Some were content a
few years ago with modest. unassuming places
81 business, but now the merchant tailor has as
me an establishment as any tradeSman."
Itu represent the pattern branch-get up
the fashions, said the reporter. wv here do you
get your ideas froIn?'
"krOn Il variety of sources" replied he eve
arc always on the lookout for something new.
sometimes we get IL suggestion or hint from n
tailor or other person. and VIII work on it till
we produce something acceptable. After getting
suggestions from tailOrs and others, and consid-
erlhS them, perhaps getting the view Of a lady,
we go on and do as many newspaper men do,
act as we please 1t is well enough to get the
ideas of otherS, but when we come down to
WORK we have to boss the job and use our own
IDEAS 1t is enc of those businesses in which
there is no weil-defned method as to orfginat-
ing styles. Observation and study is required.
Formerly changes were made in February for
spring and summer styles, and in August for
fall and winter, and the greatest changes are
stu made at these periods. The trade
however, not been content With but but two
plates per year, and must now have
them quarterly, many of the foremost demand
ing them monthly. The great changes are in
the spring and fall, however and the others
m9dlfications or improvements on them, not
radical changes The business of making
few years, and there are Il number at it, but the
bull OF it is done by TWO or three houses OF
course, there is not so much change in style de-
manded by gentlemen SIS by ladies. No, we do
not get up any styles for particular sections of
the country. When we publish the plates they
are sent To every portion of the country. and
sometimes il i found that one style will be-
come popular in one section and another in
another section, but as rule the tastes are as
much different in one section as another.
Ihere are about $4,000 merchant tailors of
standing n the country-thOSe who keep a
stock and are Iuily up to the times, having the
pest goods-and wiz them the fashion maya
zines nave come 10 be aS essential as the news
paper. Such progress have we made that even
EuropeanS are adopting our patterns.
president Arthur, continued the Sartorial
Journalist, has made good figure for the
plates, but Il style does not come by reason of
some prominent man adopting it, though to
some extent he NAV have a following a gen.
tleman knows what STYLE becomes him and will
mt himself to it. The new President Is not of
the same Kind as Mr.. Arthur, but you will find
that in the new styles Mr. Cleveland will look
wei: Presidents, however, do not make the
fashions.
I'm the effort in uniting the merchant tail
ors, said Mr. Mitchell, exchanges are being
formed, and the results are apparent wherever
they have been formed. 1t is not intended that
the craft shall become aggressive, but that
improved and that advancement may be made
In their interests: that they should not only
meet together, but with the tradesmen with
whom they deal and talk over measures for the
advancement OF the trade