Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1885-10-23
FALL FASHION NOTES.
The Gorgeous AssIre which Some we.
men Affect.
VI Thu H0'HINfI
PuILADELPmA, Oct. 10, 1856


PuuADKLPHIA, OCT 10, 1885.
Queen Esther was not more richly attired
than are the fair "friends" OF this quiet city,
80 long noted for the modest garb Of its la
dies and the broadbrim hats Of the gentle
men. From among the thousand-and-one
gorgeous novelties suiting popular fancy,
few are selected as being odd enough 70 mef-
II brief description, which will convey some
idea OF the change In dress sinos the days Of
William Penn.
The Mikado costume is one Of this seasons
novelties. In shape II IL q judioious oombi-
nation Of fashionable full skirt back cloak,
with front showing dolman features in modi-
fcations Of Japanese sleeves and full front.
The dress is Of handsome plush, trimmed in
the shspely back with plomb beaded applique,
extending from the neck halfway down the
skirt, the centre decoration consisting Of
large ornament Of cut garnets. The front of
the garment is garnished With chenille fringe,
from which psgoda-shRped wooden beads tip
ped with Jet are suspended. The Mikado
costume is very curious and stylish.
Pins Irish poplin, q material that never
grows old in favor and never wears out, is in
most exquisite colors and shades. It is made
up with rich silk and satin brocades and en-
bossed velvets.
One of the Paris extravaganoes shows two
brown, blue or drab, showing the red or gar
net undertake. through the open meshes and
wheels Of the lace.
Scarfs Of serge, with Roman-stripe border,
have fringed ends and are three yards long
Priestly's silk. warp Henriettas, In jet black,
are considered the most elegant fabrics for
mourning purposes, while in blue black they
form most magnificent toilettes for full dress,
which are made positively brilliant by the
adaptation Of piastrons aud panels Of the
fabric e1quisitely decorated with floral de-
signs in hand painting or embroidery.
The Arcadia velveteen, 80 well and favOra-
bly, known in the past for the silky richness
and unusual depth Of its handsome, immovS-
bic pile, which does not fatten or rub Of,
and is not materially injured by rain or dust,
as II can be easily cleaned and refreshed, Is
more popular than ever this season. Il comes
in black, In neutral tones, rich dark hues, and
in the tints, and is strong and warm, yet light
in weight It Is particularly adapted 10 the
construction of masquerade and evening toi-
lettes for the festivals Of the coming holidays,
as well as for dinner dresses and entire fur
trimmed costumes for visiting and street
wear. Machine embroidery is now seen upon
velveteen, the material 80 worked forming
decorative portions Of dresses and costumes
of plain velveteen.
dark ground in one Of the browns or dnba,
sprinkled over with splashes Of white.
dress with cedAr-brown plush skirt has
the embossed upper garment trimmed with q
fringe formed OF chenille loops, each holding
very small fir cone in Just the condition IL
is gathered from tree or ground.
Winter novelties are the odd sets consisting
of hat boa or collarette, and muii, all Of the
same material and trimmed en- suite. In one
set the hat is Of otter -colored velvet with out
side front Of otter fur, lined inside with quilt
ed cream. .colored satin muf and collarette
are made Of the same materials, and are
caught together by two radiant hued birds.
In hunter screen felt Is an odd Rubens bat
trimmed with velvet Of the same shade, in
termingled with a serge ribbon showing ori-
entail colored autumn leaves, arranged In high
loops, half concealing the ear Of fawn and
the head of q small squirrel.
Cute and quaint for child Ia soft hat OF
cream Angora. II has q very wide brim,
caught up in front and back with loop bows
of tricot-edged gros grain ribbon, showing
the charming face and pretty puffy ourls OF
the dainty wearer. 8. o.