The southern sentinel. (Winnfield, La.) 1883-1910, 1885-03-13
Summer Weeds.

There is great deal of uncertainty
| in the minds of ladies who are sudden
" called upon to assume mourning At
/ tire as to the resources in this direction
/ for comfortable Summer wear. Indeed,
| what is called deep mourning-that
is, mourning which involves the depths
| of darkest wool and double English
| Grape can not be made agreeable veal
| with the thermometer in the eighties
and nineties: but there is for those who
have passed the Grape season q variety
of lovely mourning fabrics; and so fine
and choice are .ey in sh ;dc, texture.
finish and in the character of their de-
signs for nothing pronounced is tOlcr-
ated in mourning that many la lies
who prefer black for general wear at ali
seasons buy at a mourning store for the
sake of obtaining the general and un-
obtlusive qualities which characterize
mourning materials. Twenty-Five or
thirty years ago certain houses which
made mourninga speciality were among
the best known in New York City.
Their fashions were regularly chron-
icled. and the fine spun gradat.ons and
customs they made an e!ort to intro
that it doubtless had something to do
with discredit.ng the whole system. AT
that time jet, as an ornamental addition
to the resources of the designer and
modiste, was confined to mourning, and
purple, violet, mauve and white. in
conjunction with black. were all mourn
ing at its different stages. as distinctly
Ps black itself. But gradually jet and
the modest gray aud neutral shades be-
came absorbed in the swift current of
ever-changing fashion. and mourning
proper was compelled to relinquish the
most of its accessories. and rely upon the
depth and unity of its be ongings for
the recognition of its character and
Office. Mourning to-day Therefore is
more limited in its scope and more cost
ly because more refined and distinct. We
in its characteristics. 1t addresses it.
self to more restricted class, for the
majority can not carry out the require
ments of modern mourning toilets, or
sacrifice the wardrobe viii h they al
really possess.
In fine woods the favorite materials
are lovely quality of nuns yelling in
two grades, both pure wool and yc.y
fine, but one smoo her than the other.
s'Camels ha r grenadine is a fine Oxen
worked wool that makes up in con-
junction with silk surah, gros-ga ain, or
armurc, and is durable as pretty and
lady-like. The width o. these mater. ais
averages forty-four inches and the cost
is one dollar per yard. This is sutii-
GENTLY low price; but to b. effective as
mourning they must be made mp over
plain foulard, which is also one dollar
per yard and only twenty-seven inches
wide: and they must be trimmed with
the finest knife pleating of the material
itself, as this is the only trimming which
is permitted. with the exception of the
interior pleatings ofcrepe isse, which
may show q line of white inside the
black. A secondary quality of camers
hair grenadines has speckle of white
silk running through il, which lightens
it somewhat, but it also lowers the tone
and renders it less elegant, as well as
less adapted to the structures of present
requirements.
The silks show much diversity with
in their quiet range, and are so good in
shade and pure in texture that they are
always desirable, in or out of mourn.
r
ing. ghter IMAM Armnre. which is
iavorile Win oider women, are the
sarans. the plain ana inquired fouiards.
lne Dlack Pongees. ana the sewing-siik,
or Armure grenadines. pc suran
makes. perhaps, the most youthful OF
summer mourning dresses. ana Is SO
l'gnt IN weignt as 70 CO very pleasant
wear, ior unlike tne grenadines, eHher
"a si,A OF Mooi. !. neeus no inlng and
i"n oe maue UP vi nsen' II . very cool
1Iess Is needea, without any mterme.
aiary: !. must, OF course, De trimmed
WIN i1seu IN knne pia'tings iolds or
Pia.nssi anu .nese -. lnaeeG; nothing
s !: .na. LOOKS 30 wen. Inc SILK grena-
1lnes OF pest quahties are much more
s an aa ansy raage from ~ 10
49, pc. yaIu, anu must neeas De
laue oso. ri SIN 81 ana. .nc cost - en-
aan.eu men sI .ney are narIo", ana IS
p.al. ngs =, IL. .ne same mus. % usea Ior
: .n.s ~. VIM : sost :: IIougn' up
:, 90 : so us.n ia ,aah ns nG!gn. o.s the
i.eSs s1"sys .ooHs % u'ss nsulSueu'
ma s ~ I" 80 ".I 49, ' .s
s s rorS . ao" hroc.Jod s III. Eau