Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1885-03-19
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS
WHAT ROsALIND MAY HAS TO TEL Il
ABOUT FEMININE FANCIEs.
Spring MIilinery-Materf
-ParAsoIs-TrimsD

| Spring MIiltneFy-MateTi iaIs--Lsees
rAsoIs-TrimsDlDgs.
Special Correspondence of Gazette and journal. 4.
NEW YoRK, March 13 70 be fsshion.
able one must be middle aged, yet cnu-
not say that to be middle aged is alwA,s
to be fashionable. Middleseeaness b to
ones clothes, ia the thing most sought
for middleAR edness So to oneself, DE-
pends on individual proolivi,ies Nine
teenth century gsllants will gaze admir-
ingly on emblems which pleased knights
Of oiden time. Ribbons in millinery are
woven wide TO show them, bat the chief
field for display are the four corners Of
han pdkerohiefs, where orouohing lsoparda,
rampant steeds and other hersldic de-
vices find portrayal. A banner Of victory,
the handkerchief is punched upon
the hat with the four corners
turned upright and thus qusdruply
armed, the modern belle will 20 to vic.
tory. Suddenly indeed has the hsndker-
OIL ief sprung into very important posi-.
tion. Its employment In millinery marks
new era, while as . neck adornment, IL
is brought out In keeping. Not alone,
however, in devices are we middle aged,
but likewise In ooloring DuIl reds,
faded blues, upbleAched yelloHs and the
like, traverse wide ribbons, sesris and
fabrics In bars or blocks, The use of
canvas is also very novel thought, yet
Il is not the canvas but what 1t portrays
which plesses. 1t is soft, fine oAnvsss,
otherwise called etsmine, and ia woven
into ribbons, handkerchiefs, soaris and
material where the quaint decorations
Just mentioned are often seen, or again
We observe g mineling Of Eastern pat
terms, such as palm leaves wrought in
gilt. The wide ribbons are very vide
and, tied under the chin, might seem
formidably 40, were It not that the light
texture prevents too great stiffness. The
above peculisrities are good deal more
| peculiar than
THE BosERrs
which display them, since in shapes there
is IS yet much lack Of novelty so little
| that at least one old iavorits is brought
out for another season and Its fresh dress
passes for 9 new spring beauty. The
trim little capote seems q necessity.
Familiarity breeds not contempt, and
once more It is prominent. Summer
styles repeat In straw, the wintry peak
| rising over the forehead. Round hats
show high, pointed crowns with narrow
rolling brims, and these will give special
opportunity for displaying the decorated
hRr dkerchiefs, while the Tam o. Shanter
cap hitherto made Of material, Is seen In
straw. Most Of these straws are, dyed,
| and no better clue can be given
to the oolofs which will prevail in dress
goods than that afforded by an array OF
them. In English straw, chip, Milan
braid and fancy styles, they indicate
popularity for brown, green, dull reds,
yellows and blues. A very large number
of bonnets, however, will be Of material,
and here comes in opportunity for the
wool lAoes Of the day. They are marked
and leading feature, these wool laoes.
Woven constantly as material but like
wise In yards upon yards Of edgings of
many different widths and In design, we
notice continually striving after
quaint old patterns devised per-
hAps by some monk In the days
when lace making whiled away
the time Of snohorites. Great quantities
are In unbleached hues, and there Ia
more or less intermixture Of gilt, but
some are dyed In fashionable shades or
show unitings Of different oolors. Gilt is
omnipreBsnt in millinery. 1t Rlitters on
quaint portrayals of the moyen age,
winds itself among fabrics Of all kinds,
shines on canvas, whether in embroid-
cries or weaving, and traverses many q
yard Of fashionable ribbon. Ribbons
are the most peculiar that have been
seen for many day. To say nothing Of
the CANVAS ribbons, mention need only
be made Of such as are crossed by faded
stripes showing dimly among unbleaohed
Alternations, or others wheie the newt
able middle age blocks and banners find
representation. ALI these are the more
conspicuous by reason Of conspicuous
width. II were . grievous mistake, how
ever, to suppose that We are this season
to have no brightness. On the contrary
there are ribbons and hRndkerohiefs
where Roman stripes lie thick together,
and every hue assemblies to give pro-
nouncea effects. Between millinery and
DRESS GOODS
there Ia always close connection. In
material therefore, we shall see etamine
as perhaps the most marked novelty,
while similar ideas As to decoration, will
prevail here likewise. A world also will
open before us In the wool laoss whether
in fabric or edgings, and throughout the
department OF costumes, many new re-
suits will therefore be brought about. As
for example, where the front breadth Of .
wool dress ia rendered novel by the plao-
ing Of q t'lranspsrent," this being the
name given widths Of wool lace brought
ont expressly for such purpose. From
half to three fourths Of yard In
depth, they are woven with selvaRe on
the upper side and ornamental edge on
the lower, and will be seen either hArmo-
J mixing or contrasting with the dress,
which elsewhere Of course will chow lace
trimming Of similar character. Afternoon
| and evening dresses Of pale plnk, blue, &c., /,
/ will be prsttily relieved by creamy lace.
. The same shade will tighten up dark
, blue, brown and the like, while black
lsee may give handsome relief to orim.
son. But the possible tones are endless, and
/ can be left to the imagination, or may
. add that any desired information on any
Q topic will be furnished By Lord & Taylor,
o as also all varieties Of spring goods and
millinery. These laoes will seriously In
/ terfere with combinations in costumes, ~
9 they take the place Of the bsoosdet
4 fabric. Velvet, however, will be mucl
70 employ ed as a uniting or component par
o of the outfit, and with its constant substi
n tute and rival, Nonpnreil velveteen, will
,, be q leading factor IN spring and summer
K They bring about necessary contrasts FOL
h light goods and are obligatory for thu
|, stylish outfits OF ouol days. China velve
ot is handsome, and velvet frise figure
10 on satin foundations will interier
70 with the demand for brooade Il
of the higher types. The frise idea is in
g. deed growing, and now hAs extended +
light wools, while close akin are bourett
wools with their peculiar knottingE
Mohsirs are once again noticeable. an
especially populEr for travelling coat
70 will be checked mohairs, silky In lustl
AZ and more durable than silk. Bison sers
a. is also being made into servioeab
Of dresses. There is the usual complemel
ke Of diagonals, oamel's hair Goods Al
Of cashmere. Wool grapes are newer ths
v. veiiings, while rs a marked feature
ia almost all classes Of woods, are tins
- threads traversing the fabric or wrougl
y, in figures.
W. MARCH NOTES.
The coming paraaol has the new canoI
ar top and is very much bowed over,
ng much 90, as to cause last seasons styl
'ut to have something OF pancake loo
Extremely pretty are the lace oovere
and here there are notable difierenc
since last year. In place Of the all
las one cover We see now, lwo or three widt
lth Of black French lace gracefully drape
or, Lovely styles are covered with cream
Of lace and silk to match. Various delica
& hues are thus presented, but are Of couI
Of more expensive than pGrasols Of the Sal
I i III. -.