Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-09-20
FOR THE LADIES.
SOME FALL FASHIONS.

SOME FALL FASHIONS.
ssasonnbie 1iints for Autumn Miii,uery--
Novelties In Dress Fabrics and Costumes.
There is no article Of feminine attire
thai appeals more directly to a woman's
heart than becoming headgear, and the
first consideration after return from
seaside or mountain resort is to replace
the delaced and faded representative OF
what was charming summer hat or
bonnet. The modistes and importers
have been busy during the season past,
and most bewildering array OF fabrics
and endless novelties are ready for in-
spectiop. Although too early for autumn
openings it is not too soon to note the
coming styles in materials, shapes, etc,
and to tell what will be worn. The
bonnets are small and narrow, the sides
very close to the head, with small
crown Of the horseshoe shape. In many
Of the imported bOnnets these crowns
are made entirely Of beads, and the
new rosary wooden beads. plum, steel,
jet, or copper being used. In Others
the shape is only outlined with the
beads. the edges being finished to cor
respond. The front edges Of the bon
nets are very full /; they are not in
tended to rest Hat upon the hair, but
are raised by beaded cornet or by
puff Of velvet, which IS very high in
the middle and close on the sides. The
trimming is massed up high directly
upon the top, and increasing in height
toward the back.
Felt bonnets are the first choice for
the early autumn. The most fashlona-
bic of these are trimmed with ribbons
alonc-a severe style, but becoming to
youthful faces, and one that requires
tie skill of finished modiste to arrange
srtistically. The heavy repped ribbons
ale most popular, either of the same
color as the bonnet or Of pretty con-
trasting shade selected to harmonic
with the costume.
VELVET BONNErS.
Velvets are to be the popular choice
for bonnets. Never have these been
shown in such variety of coloringS
and STYLES plain and embroidered,
shaded, striped, beaded, andrepped form
some of the varieties. Plush is also to
be used both for trimming and entire
bonnets and hats. The greatest novelty
is embroidered cloth. This can be
utilized for bonnets to wear with any
wool costume, but is especially designed
for the embroidered cloth dresses that
are par excellence to be the costume for
the winter.
Tinsel is prominent feature in all
fabrics prepared for bonnets; gold Is
not as much seen as it has been, copper,
silver, and lead being foremost. They
are not as glariDg as gilt and will be
more generally popular. There are
also novel metallic combinations, such
as gilt ribbon studded with small lead,
copper, or Jet beads, with larger faceted
beads at the edge.
A novel feature in the new styles for
millinery is the combination OF wool
and silk. There are ribbons with alter
nate stripes Of wool, plush. and satin
others show q velvet stripe and one OF
woolen lace, in which a gilt thread is
introduced. Feathers are in endless
variety; quilts, ostrich-tips, and fea-
theirs of every known and unknown
bird are shown. Large birds are also
to be worn, black birds, swallows, and
sca-gulls being the most sought after
NEW FABRICS.
New fabrics for costumes are daily
appearing. The success Of canvas foI
summer gowns has caused the manufac'
turers to bring out a wool materia
suitable for winter wear. At a frs
glance one would imagine it was thir
texture. with lining of darker oil
contrasting shade. Such, however, /;
not the case, the two apparently distlnc
surfaces being woven together. This
is to be made up with plain goods o
solid color. Stripes are shown
in endless variety. There ar
broad ones, narrow, medium. and I
mere cluster Of threads, with single
wide one intervening; also, alternate
stripes on grounds Of totally ditleren
nature. These are also made up will
plain material, combination costume
continuing quite as popular as the.
have been. Colored velyets with shO
and shaded stripes are very desirable
fabrics the new Bayadere veloutine
are also popular. Veloutine is thick
soft, largely-repped silk, which has tn
effect Of terry velvet. 1t Grapes grace
fully, and would retrim plain dress s.
as to be unacceptable, as they ar
sty lish and novel.
Gowns imported from Paris are re
markable for the manipulation o
stripes, which are certain in some part
OF the gown to be placed vertically
The skirt is Of plain goods, or if yer.
much desired by young girl tn
stripes are used horizontally, but tn
oveIskirt. which falls in heavy pleatS a
the back, in front is caught into tn
waistband. forming diagonal apron
and beneath is another apron cut on tn
cross.
Judging from French gowns, tn
arm-holes are once more to be pulled
and to make the draping Of skirts pei
fectly successful they are first sewn t
the waistband straight all round an
then literally cut with scissors on tn
stands, so that they are short here an
long there, as required. The mos
successful treatment is where the ul
per drapery is short on the hips an
falls in frill-like fashion, produced b
? cutting.
} A style Of dress coming in vogue 70
evening costume for winter and likel
to be adopted by the ultra-fashionabl
| is composed Of the richest brocads an
, gold and silver stuHs. The back is
rediDgote, falling in thick. heavy folds
and lying we'll on the ground. Tn
bodice is close-ftting at the back, br
, | IN front from Shoul1ar 70 hem n farm,