Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1885-09-23
New York Fashions.
FALL MILLINERY-NEw DRESS GOODS
WINTER LACEs.

FALL MILLINERY-NEw DRESS GOODS
WINTER LACEs.
[For the SPEcTAToR.l
heavy stiffness; stiff heaviness will
| characterize the orthodox New York winter
bonnet. Not bonnets alone, but hats; not
bonnets and hats alone, but trimmings and
the sweet attractive grace" of Milton's
| ideal woman, will be lost among modern
pushes. felts and feathers. The heroine
OF to-day, will be aggressive, bristling.-
The heaviness of plush made hat or bon
net, needs no discourse of mine to set it
| forth while felts are certainly not ethereal.
On these foundations, come adornments,
among which heads play most important
role. Not always the familiar kinds. Imi-
tatlon amber beads are as large as medium
sized buttons, flat and sometimes set about
all over at short intervals; churchly pre-
cincts have been invaded and rosary beads,
diverted from their original purpose, now
variegate surfaces in fashionable millinery
| in almost any way seen fit; often placed
| around the edges of brims or arranged in
fanciful patterns. Small beads of ordinary
make are used to stiffen out long leaves and
numerous are the wire limitations of ferns
and kindred foliage where small, thickly
set beads render briar-like, that which ma
ture made yielding. Following out this
idea, we observe feathers continually add
ed to, by beaded aigrettes standing upright
or by metal quiverings which glitter vari-
ously hued.
RIBBONS
are frequently so inlaid by beads, that they
nnGSse distinctive character and become gal
looms. / M moSnss'hla oon,sssla to bunch, they must lie
fiat. Material is as Teavily adorned or
where beads do not appea we see the stiff
ness of interlacing metal THREADS ii a c. clog
embroidery that with neal, woven tracings
causes desirable heaviness. In keeping
with prevailing thoughts in millinery, we
observe woolen ribbons; veritably new de-
parture. Many of these show the dull col
ored summer stripes, but with dark foun-
dation of wool in place of canvas, while the
summer idea of scarfs is again and frequent
ly repeated. Some woolen ribbons or rath-
er ergalloons, are almost rug-like in thickness,
as for example, where rosary bead as large
as small pea, alternates with a square in
weaving. The bead does not stand out, but |
peeps up from it's enclosing bed. Such are
ribbons, yet ribbons are not always SUCH
Satin ribbon with reverse of velvet will be |
constantly seen while the satin ribbons with |
picot edge form large element in winter
importations. They appear as strings or
in stiff loopings on the front of bonnets and |
hats where they add to the upright feather
with it's bristling ends of bead or metal
Feathers are exit emely fanciful, and arti- |
fetal as they are fanciful. Nature has lit
tie to say except perhaps where the bril- |
liancy of the humming bird def1es deface-
ment, 80 we see these bright plumaged crea-
lures set at the base of something taller
which is dyed to match stylish production
of the loom. Wings are in high repute, be-
cause in keeping with the thought Of the
day, but entire birds are nearly absent as
we'll likewise as low lying bands. Ostrich
plumage comes in for high, if not very
popular position, but here again, native
softness yields to aggressiveness. Tips are
made to nod defiance in triple punches set
in front Or the sweep of long plume seems
to say, 'look and reverence my costliness.''
THE BONNET
is so far, of small dimension. Close at the
sides and moderately high rising. In fact,
very much of pressed-in capote, but as we
are getting tired of that word, we now be-
gin to say "princesse' in place of it. Hats
admit of great boldness. The large, high
crown invites display. and, of course, there |
are those who will embrace the opportuni- |
ty. Veritable exhibitions of all the stiff
things mentioned above, we shall have
against the high crown as back ground, |
upright feathers, wire and bead d-formed |
leaves combined with formal ribbon loop
ings while long pins, stuck through, add
severity and hinder any possible grace
Grace is possible to long plume, but even |
this seems now to speak a language foreign |
to ITSELF The close princesse hats of course |
do not give similar chances, but small as is |
the room, much is made of it, and the fronts
bristle surprisingly. The market is full,
however, of turbans and modestly formed |
English walking hats. These will have
scope, and while admitting of jauntiness,
will forbid loud showing of any nature.
TALL DRESS GOODS.
The bellies trim walking boot, newly
frightened by her tried and trusty dressing,
Buttons Raven gloss, will find opportunity
for display this Fall, because of short dress
leading ideas in millinery and it is curious
indeed to notice how thought travels from
one department to another; influencing all |
and bringing about completeness. When, |
therefore, it is written that wool ribbons ap-
pear, the prominence of wool costumes be- |
comes a foregone conclusion. Again we |
find similarity in texture and as the ribbons |
and scarfs are canvas-like, so do canvas-lk |
woolen goods hold high position in the
market. Producing jauntiness during sum-
mer, there is consequent jauntiness at pre- |
sent, Furthermore as broad woolen sashes
are brought out to match hat scarfs. The
heavy plushes for millinery serve moreover |
as prelude to plush in costumes which this
year comes up full of prestige, while as addi-
tional evidence of a soughtfor unanimity,
we shall have rosary and other large beads
set on the dress in ways to match bonnets.
Throughout the domain of dress-goods like
wise, there is seeking after heaviness; new
woods are rug-like in thickness and wrought
in mixed patterns; bourette dots afford |
heavy sprinklings and aeecy surfaces pro-
duce similar result.
THE LACEs
for winter use are made heavier and closer |
than those of the summer. Not often white, |
but in stylish colors and of wool or silk, but
as silk lace is expensive and these ideas
likely to be temporary, the majority will
invest in the cheaper wool fabric. 1t will
be used lavishly, covering entire fronts and
otherwise freely employed and again may
serve purposes of economy by covering
worn places. But for the class who can
afford such outlay, the new silk laces open
up wide field of beauty. Chiefly in Span
ish patterns, but Irish laces in cream and
ecru will work in prettily as contrasts
Imitation French lace copies chantilly de-
signs and will constantly serve as a finish |
on black dresses while as a sign of the times,
come white nets printed in .jardiniere Glow
er) designs for evening.
RosALIND MAY.
Parson Massey thinks that Attorney Gen
eral Blair might be a good enough sort of
fellow if he only would not misappropriate
the States funds. But so long as he is a
victim of this amiable excentricity the Par
son thinks his faults should not be made
conspicuous by high preferment. The fact
remains that while the law allows him So |