Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1885-11-15

IL
ton of the other two with feathers Of its
own that are different from either. The
foundation dress is very much the same as
in Mrs. Pffeifer's Greek gown, except that
being made in print and for ordinary use
the sleeves are cut to the wrist. The over
dress is followed q little at the neck, front
and back. but otherwise gathered In at the
waist (ouly with more tullness) exactly
like the Cashmere Costume" excepting
that drspery ia lifted somewhat to the right
of the opening aud held BE- the clasp at the
belt The body part is also cut in more
to the arm, the Sleeves being less tull and
requiring less space. The material Of the
oyerdress is what is known in London as
Arabian cotton. 1t has naturally cTinkl-
ed or creepy surface, irregularly ridged and
falling in very close and graceful folds
It was used By Miss Anderson for her
Gslstea dress, designed BY a London artist,
and proved more amensble to artistic re-
uuirements than the China crepe at $40
Der yard which che had previously employ,
ed. The skirt of the underdress may be
gathered or peated, understand plested not
plaited) for plat was formerly only used
in the sense OF brsidipg or weaving to-
gether, and is not properly applied TO
staight folds; but gathering is more suitable
for figured prints, such as that CT which
this skirt is made, as it does not conceal
any part Of the pattern and is Eaore easily
iaundried.
These costumes are all what would be
called aesthetic, yet they are beautiful,
graceful, simple, convenient, and easily
adapted to different uses They are also,
especially the cashmere costume, SO nearly
ike the modes Of today that, in suitable
materials and with proper treatment, they
could be worn as they are, and have been,
without exciting unusual attention. But
one Of the reasons why this can be done is
because conventional fashion, while sueer-
ing, reviling and ridiculiDg the aesthetic
ides, has stolen its thunder aud incorporst-
ed it, in fragments ana Without unity, into
Its changing and capricious repertoire OF
the modes. 1t has done this in self defence
and because it was demanded. Ideas are
scarce in conventional atmosphere, and
the aesthetics had an idea to begin with
several Of them-and they addressed them.
selves to the tGsse sud common sense Of
! thinking, intelligent women. The extrav-
agances Of unthinking and senseless fol-
lowers who endesvcr 10 gain aotoriety by
exaggerstion undoubtedly Disguised them,
but underlying al this they could not but
discover an adap.abiiity to lovely forms
and simple materials, which was better
than mere cost, so long the test of taste
aud elegance, and sincer;tv which is en-
essential element OF morality In dress as
we'll as in the quantities Ct mind and heart
Thus, whatever may be said OF it, it will
be found eventually thst the 80 called Rs.
thetic element is the trCest aud most i'm
portsut contribution made to the ethics Of
dress in this generation, and the one that
will exercise the most decisive influence
upon the igtgrs.
The Ssgerness with which s new fashion is
seized if it comes from an authoritative
source is seen in the efforts to utilize this
sensation reated By the appearance Of the
Princess of Walesin the dress of the gra6u-
ates upon whom degreeis conferred ct tie
Oolle&e OF Music in butlin. Upon the oc=
casion of the visit Of her Royal Highress
an honorary degree was conferred upon
her and she was formally invested in the
cap and gown, which lroTsd very teocm.
Ing, for though no longer very young and
never strikiDgl7 beautiful, she possesses an
interesting and expressive fsce. whick Sc
tsips its charms sud even gains something
with increasing age from the exercise OF
lovely disposition.
The gown and cap are practically the
sam. =. =. .nose worn ct Oxford and thu s t.-
nal investment of the Princess Of Wales,
her willingness to year the eestuRe as the
sign of her fellowship with the body, settled
for ever the mooted question Of propriety
so far as women gradustes are concerned
and made the cap ard gown the badge o
student graduates without reference to sex
The gown as usually worn is black II
this instance it was of red satin dsmask
lined with satin and faced with velvet
Above the straight high cellar are thre'
folds of soft crepe de chine and the pin il
diamond Tyre with fine, twisted gol'
strings. The cap is commonly called Ia
"mortar-hoard," and has been the subiec