National Republican., 1885-10-31

by u satisfactory bonus) has been turned
back in his course aud compelled to make
wide detour around the domain OF some
oIdurate autocrnt. The alcalde OF Las Vegas
was gorgcously attircd in slky-bue breeches,
Iuiiled calico shirt, worn with "naps" flap
ping outside, gayly.stripod zcrape (blankct)
thrown over one shoulder, and enormously-
brimmed sombreio, which appeared to have
grown upon his head, as during all our stay
he made no attempt to remove IL.
Having been duly impressed by the
august signatures affixed to our credentials
We heard him issuing commands to half a
dozen ragged servants as to the MENU and
this accomplished, he returned with the mis-
trCss of the manse, who had incontinently
fOwn at our approach. The senora-a
gentle creature, whose weight must have
teen near thrcc hundred pounds had
to he half dragged In by the lord and master,
lut oECe inside her shyncss suddenly dis.
appeared, and, with laugh, she sat down
upon petatc (stiaw hat) aud invited us to
do likewise. There being no chairs In the
c0sa-nUthing but punchcon benches ranged
around the table-we cheerfully settled
ouiselvCcs beside her, though the apartment
YVES occupied conformity by most soclable
colony Of dogs and chickens, while couple
Of lean pigs ard several goats wandered I'm
and out at will. Drawing n leathcrn case
from the bosom Of her gown, our engaging
hostess rendered us each cigarette of her
own rolling; and, while we endeavorcd
to perform manfully the smoking act,
which politeness required the lady--hcr
bashfulness unfortunately vanlshed-pro-
ceedod to handle curiously every article OF
cur apparel, ''secn and unseen.n Our
buttOncd boots excited her special cnthu-
siasm, and IN the ccstacy of admiration she
would no doubt have requested them rs
souvenirs Of the visit had not her attention
been diverted by the gift of scarlet rib
bon.
PREPARING THE FEAST.
Meantime the servants were shurrying
wildly to and fro under orders from the
alcade, while the increased odor OF garlic
and loud spatting of tortillas (thin cakes,
made OF crushed corn nodded between the
hands) announced that breakfast was ap-
preaching, and presently the lord Of
the manor, with sombrero still upon
bis head, waved us grandly to his
hospitable board. The sonora, being too
broad for the space between bench and
table, was forced TO sit with her back to
the festive spread; but candor cOmpels me
to confess that, barring her back hair, her
duties as hostess were most satisfactorily
ito us) performed in that un-
usual position, because she indulged
In neither knife, fork, nor spoon, but
insisted upon helping us TO everything
within reach with her own tobacco-discol-
ored fingers. Possibly the bill Of fare might
not have tempted epicures at home, but,
thanks to habit and the long ride, We were
enabled to do justice to the vlands.
WONDERFUL MENU.
First, there was the inevitable caldo
| (broth )--hot water favored with grease,
garlic, chill-pepper, tand brassl spoons,
served in teacups; sopa, the invariable sec
ond coursc-ricc, cooked In oil and seasoned
with chilli a dish of fat meal boiled with
| various seeds and vegetables; tortillas not
from the griddle-of course, without butter;
frejoles (red beans), stewed in grease and
eaten with cheese or curdled goats milk;
and strong black coffee, without milk or
sugar. Looking out upon miles of unculti-
vatCd country, where anything would grow
| If planted, i asked the alcalde why his
neighbors made no gardens. "Quien sabe!"
he replied, with shrug of surprise, "COn
maiz y chill no falta naday'-who wants
more than corn and chilli?
After the rcpast other villainous cigar
cites must per force be smoked, and the
| shadows Of afternoon were alHrmingly
| long before the hospitable dignitary could
| be induced to order our donkeys and per-
init us to depart. His worthy spouse,
grateful for sundry little gifts, stood side
ways in the wide door-being too eXpan-
siye TO stand otherwise-and gave us many
| parting injunctions to steiner mucho cui-
dado de los caballeros del camins'-to keep
sharp lockout for gentlemen OF the
road - and amid many affectionate adios
we turned our faces toward the Cafre that
loomcd like sheeted ghost before us.
on TIE PLAIN OF PERoTE.
Twohours laterfound us within the plain
of Perote, which, level rs an ocean, Is
bounded by hills on every side. One one
hand towers the majestic peak of Orzaba,
| pn1abrntn1 n n
of basaltic porphery which upholds the 81
gantic "cofre" (chest) of Aztec tradition.
while in the midst Of the plain rises the conc
of Tepiacualca, and In the distance series
of snow-topped mountains outline the
horizon. All these plains were once the
basins Of former lakes, now dry and arid
and for miles not trace Of human habita
tion is to be seen. just before entering the
village Of Pcrote the road runs through q
narrow cannon which from time immemoria
has been so robber-infested that 1t Is now
like graveyard, lined with hundreds oi
black crosses, the murdered having beer
buried where they fell.
All the houses Of the town present to the
street blank wall of stone or adobe, Will
10 windows at all, but frequent loop-holeI
for guns. Each casa has only one entrance
a wide portal which is always carefully
closed, barred, and guarded-leading to the
inner court, around which the rooms arc
builded. This style of architecture proves
that each mans house must indeed be his
castle, and inclines the stranger to gel
within one ns soon as possible Not many
years ago this village was n citadel of vaga
bondism, the headquarters of all manner o
villainy, in which 1t was unsafe for decent
people to stir out of doors even Mt midday
Even now, in these more peaceful days, thu
streets at dark are rs deserted as those o
Pompeii, and the population are barred
within their cheerless dwelings-eXcep
the ragged ladrones (thieves), who skull
about beneath the shadows Of huge som
breros, each with pistols, dagger, or mochat
tucked conveniently under his blanket
watching for plunder.
THE CASTLE OF SAN CARLOS.
A few rods north Of the town stands TIN
famous castle Of San Carlos, which is h
Mexico what the ''Tower' has been to Eng
land. The huge, square fort, with moa
and glacis, was built In the best style o.
last century Notifications, but would be o
little use in modern warfare. 1t was orig
inally designed as q depository Of silver
when, in consequence Of Spanish wars will
maritime nations, II became imprudent t.
send it forward to the coast, which wa
continually ravaged by buccaneers. During
the twelve years Of MeXico's revolutionar.
struggle, beginning In 1910, this storehOus
Of Perote was crowded with treasure. A
one time the accumulation of specie within
II amounted to more than S40,00O,000, ant
weighed over 1900 tons.
In this castle many of the unlucky gen
erals have been incarcerated, whom rcyOlu
tions aud cOunter-rcvolutions have turne'
upon their backs, and from its gloom
portals not few political offenders hay
gone forlh TO execution. From this plac
in 1928 Santa Anna issued his pronuncla
mcnto against Padraza, and here he wa
imprisoned by Rincon, seventeen years later
after his capture at Xico. He was in con
iinCment In this castle when banished iron
the country by decree Of the Mexican con
gress, and to II he soon after returned Il
triumph when recalled to assume suprem
control.