Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-08-22
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald by !. Leone. .
DESIGNS FOR WOOL DRESSES.

DESIGNS FOR WOOL DRESSES.
The Autumn styles of wool dresses.are
Of very plain design, with double or sec
ond skirts and plain lower skirts.
The long over-skirt may fall in pleats
from the waist down, with an open space
on one side or both, or else it may be
plain in front. with merely pleats behind !;
it is then caught up high and in careless
fashion on one side, or it may be drawn
up alike on both sides, and held by a vel
vet loop or strap and buckle.
The tendency is toward straight back
draperies that are made sufficiently full
and bouffant by the tournure beneath
them. 1t is said that the exaggerated
tournure Introduced by English women
is fast being abandoned by them, and
their winter dresses win show return
to more graceful flowing drapery.
Both single and double breasted
basques are to be worn again.
Vests will be retained, but will be
greatly diversified, being visible in some
cases only in the lower part of the cor
sage, while in others only short plas-
tron at the top will be used inside of the
notched collars that are copied from
masculine garments.
Polonais are to be revived, as they have
been so long out of use, and all the chan
ges have run on basques and coats.
The soft camel's hair serges and diago-
male will be used for long and stately red
ingotes, to be worn over shaggy cloth
skirts.
One of the new wool stuffs has diago-
nal lines woven in double rows that are
SO wide and SO prominent they resemble
braid applied in bias rows ; this is the
result Of the furore for braid trimmings
that has prevailed for two or three sea-
sons, but which is predicted to be soon
over these heavy diagonal cloths are to
be used for redingotes, basques and jack
cts, with borders and large buttons of fur
as trimmings.
SILK, VELVET AND PLUSH.
| Facille franchaise and other soft repped
silks, such as Bengaline and Sicilene,
will be used for autumn dresses, and in
combination with velvet and plush for
winter.
Velontine is a name given to the soft
est of these new repped silks with rich
yet dull lustre like that on velvet.
Both plain and figured velvets areshown
for dresses, while very large frise figures
are seen on the cloaking velvet.
| Black and seal brown are the colors for
velvet coats, with some of the darkest
plomb or lead color shades.
Smaller figures of frise or curled vel
vet and the closer uncut velvet figures
are on grounds of faille franchise to be
used for dresses in combination with
plain velvet or plain faille.
Contrasts of colors are seen in these
designs, such as red on Chartreuse green,
blue with Havannah brown, red with
ecru, and drab with blue.
Plomb color is most successful in mon.
otone, showing two or three shades of
ore color, or else in combination with
black.
Arabesque, scrolls, and curved figures
generally, are on these corded silks and
velvets.
Plush is also imported again in tartan
plaids, in stripes, dotted with gilt or lead
as if beaded, and in the ribbed cross-lines
called ploughed plush.
AUTUMN MILLINERY.
Felt, velvet, and tinsel embrolderies
are the leading features of the earliest
autumn millinery, while the novelty that
is seen in all kinds of materials for the
milliner's use, is the combination of wool
with silk goods. This last followed nat
urally on the success of uniting cotton
and wool with better goods, as in the
canvass fabrics worn during the summer,
and is the legitimate result of using wool
| in summer laces.
| Illustrations of this are found in rib.
hnns with stripe of wool. a stripe al
plush, and satin or faille stripe or else
open wool stripes like the angora laces in
colors have gilt thread wove through
them, and are between velvet stripes in
bonnet ribbons, while "piece goods fol
making the bonnet have wool founda,
ton, like cloth, or they are in lace pat
terms with embroidery in tinsel threads
| all over the surface.
Wool braijs fourth of an inch wild,
are plated in basket patterns with many
gilt threads forming cross-bars, and thil
fabric is to be used for the crown or the
brim of the bonnet in combination will
cloth or velvet, or, if desired, the whole
bonnet will be made of it.
| The boucle effects noted for dress
goods are also to be seen in the WOO
stuffs used for making bonnets, and in
stripes and bars of the ribbons for theil
trimmings.
1
A country hat of blue straw is trimmed
with tuft of roses.
Brilliant bead trimmings are used on
dresses of rich brocade.
For fall wear fancy Tuscan hat is fin
ished with lace and bunch of nectarines
at one side.
The new skirts fall in folds, which dis
play the lines of the figure, hitherto dis.
tinguished and disfigured by puffings.
The newest bonnets do not stand up
sufficiently high over the face to elongatt
it, hence they are more becoming to thir
faces.
Bonnets of white crepe and gold, are
finished with sprays of white and green
lilies Of the valley.
Illuminated buttons are fashionable.
Superb fans are formed entirely OF
mother Of pearl.
Leather splashers for wash-stand rage
among the novelties.
Chintz pattern, or all-over decorated
ware is quite popular for toilette sets.
Pretty house aprons are Roman in eff
feet, and embroidered on the edge in
rich Oriental colors in Roman designs.
Open work gloves and stockings are
for summer wear.
Among the new trimmings are wide
ribbons covered with lace.
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