Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-12-19
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald bu Leone"


The prettiest house dresses are
now made of cashmere. Mature hell
trope and lavender shades are in
favor for these, and are very effec-
tive and pretty when made up with
darker shade. 1t requires
more than ten yards Of cashmere
for such a gown. with half a yard OF
for a plastron, or five eighths
if for a longer vest. high collars aud
cuffs.
The velvet is set in a triangular
plastron, or else as a square, show
ing wide above the darts, and mar
to the waist line or below it.
The part below the plastron may be
with eye.let holes, and lac
ed together by a cord of silver, or OF
silk the color of the cashmere.
or ffeckled grey cashmere are
made in the same way with dark
blue or garnet velvet, and white is
with golden brown. An0th-
or fashion is to lap the basque far on
the left side, and have a triangular
of velvet covering the Tapped
part. The skirt has a foundation,
plainly covered at the foot With
cashmere, on which a narrow pleat-
ing is set. The long drapery con-
sists of a breadth and a half for the
apron, reaching in pleats from the
belt to the foot, OIL the left side, and
caught up high on the right. Lap
ping bias folds or tucks, or else
lengthwise pleats form a panel down
the left side, and the back drapery
hangs full and straight.
Brupettes may wear bright red
woolens, or copper-colored woods,
made in this way. This design also
looks well in black serge, with the
fronts inlaid with either black OF car
dinal watered silks.
BAsQUEs.
Basques remain in favor, not
withstanding the effort to supplant
them with polenaise, and perfectly
round waists. Three kinds OF
basques are most used: the draped
basque, the short postillion, and the
round basque, also called the coat
basque; these r varied to suit all
fabrics. The pleated short postil.
lion is appropriate Tor winter wool
ems, while for soft light goods there
is full drapery on the tournure.
For well rounded figures the short
postillion basque is most becoming,
and should be sharply pointed in
one or two points in front,
sloping upward on the hips to with
in two or three inches of the waist.
line, curying thence downward to
the middle Of the side forms, the
other half Of each side form is then
Enlightened, and with the middle
makes the square postillion,
which may have fat pleats in the
middle seams, or else 4 box pleat in
each of the middle forms. This
square should not be shaped too
nor yet so broad that it will
increase the apparent size of the
earer.
The round coat basque is best for
figures. 1t is made to come
well over the hips, and is of even
all around the back is open.
and Tapped in the middle seam
below the waist line, and a pleat Oh
each side form is turned toward the
middle, a button defines the waist at
the top of each of these pleats.
The darts in all basques are now
made longer and higher, pushing up
the flesh instead of allowing it to
as it does in French corsages,
and the darts are very close togeth.
er at the waist line, giving the waist
that long and slender appearance
which is just now the craze, and
which makes tae spirituelle girl rank
so far above her chubby sister.
seams are short, and arm
holes made as small as they a
comfortably be worn, the under.arm
forms are fitted close and high,
Sleeves are not enlarged, and still
retain the coat shape, following the
outlines of the arm. The other half
OF the sleeve is deeply curved at the
top, so that 1t may extend well up
the shoulders, and fit easily in
the arm-hole without being gathered.
The under half of the sleeve is quite
narrow, and should also have good
length at the top. The sleeves should
be placed in the arm-hole, with the
front seam Of the sleeve about an
inch farther forward than the under
arm form, making the seam of the
lie along its arm the whole
The standing collar should be
made quite high, measuring an inch
and a fourth, and often higher. The
high military band meets in front,
where it is fastened by two or three
hooks and loops, when the wearer