The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1885-09-02
FASHION AS 1T FLIES.
Some Of the Very Latest Styles in Feminine
Apparel.
Hand Made Lace-Demi-SeasOn Dresses for
Travelling, shopping and Morning
Wear-New Fanctes of General
Interest to the Fair Sex.

JefllS- OF the tflCOt ana pearllllgS OF hdlteSe-
or the geometric of Greek guipure, is highly
commended as an adjunct to artistic dress
ing. 1t Is the only real lace in reach which
has richness of old points without an expense
of time and money beyond reason. 1t is
made in smooth Italian linen thread, which
is much better finished than Scotch or Irish
thread for general purposes, and specially
for furniture; in cream Saxony wool for
trimming stuff dresses: i'm creamy undyed
silk for rich cardinal collars and cuffs to wear
with velvet, and in black twist for trimming
silks. Young women anxious to produce
something that will replenish their purses
will take the hint and devote themselves to
this pretty art.
The present fashion of wearing lace VIII
give fresh work to clever fingers, as all varie-
ties of needle and bone lace called into
use, including sorts that used to be devoted
to underwear end toilet trimming The
hand-knit edging and insertion in oakleaf
pattern of gray linen thread looks well on
red or blue twill. Long stripes of lace are
knit for insertion in the apron draperies of
fall dresses. Whole aprons are knit of wool
or thread in the open patterns once sacred to
chair tides, and look very well over dark red
or blue dresses. The finest zephyr woods i'm
green, sky-blue, or dark shades are knit in al
ternate stripes with cream wool. or cream
and gold in dress sets. which combine apron,
vest or fichu sleeve ruffles and fiOunceS. Ov-
erdresseS of cream or colored wool. exquis-
itely light and warm are made for few
wearerS, and are so charming that we may
expect an episode of knitting toilets from
robes de chambres TO travelling wraps. Why
not? They are next to fur in warmth, and
less burdensome in price, while prettier than
anything else that is seasonable. Best of all,
they are weightless. and the nearer we come
to making dress featherweight the better
for the health of our nervous women.
DEMI-sEAsoN DRESSES.
For demi-season dresses for travelling, shop
ping and for morning wear navy blue alpaca
is being made up in imitation OF the grace
fGl gowns worn during the summer by the
Princess of Wales and her daughters. For
very young ladies silver braid or white mo-
hair has formed the trimmings, the mOhair
being used as narrow vest high collar and
straight cuffs. with rows of braid along the
edges, and also on the sash draperies that are
worn with a kilt skirt. For autumn dresses
black braid or else dark blue Hercules braid.
will take the place OF metal braids, and either
velvet or plush will be used for the vest
cuffs, and collar. Long over-skirts that are
up on one side or both, will be used with
these dresses, and there may be rows of braid
or of velvet ribbon for the trimming. A side
panel of velvet will be chosen by those who
prefer pleated skirts with Greek draperies.
The new shade of brown, called lynx brown,
Is also being made up in mOhair and alpaca
dresses for the three autumn months when
canvas dresses will be too thin and cloth too
heavy for comfort. Gilt braid will be spar
ingly used on such dresses rather as piping
or edging for brown velvet than in many
SNOWY rows or in the vermicelli patterns
lately used. Wide wool galloons and wool
laces that are embroidered lightly with gilt
are rich trimmings for lynx brown mohairs,
while silver threads are wrought in similar
trimmings for gray dresses.
The mixed red and blue laces are also be-
ing used to trim blue alpacas and with these
are sometimes seen velvets of the two colOrs.
in stripes or in very small figures. for the
small accessories of the corsage. The correct
idea, however, in such dresses is TO have
them exceedingly plain, depending upon
their fine fiji for their beauty. When lace is
used on mohair, it is most stylish when con-
fined to the lower skirt: single deep fall of
lace, very slightly gathered, crosses the front
and side cores, or else there are two or three
narrower rutfles of lace across the front, and
several rows are placed up the left side in
the space left uncovered by the draperv
with narrow wool lace, and forming the
front and sides of the skirt of these pleats.
When braid is chosen for trimming the new
fancy is to form the front breadth OF two
very wide box pleats, covering these with
clusters of cross rows of the braid, lenghten-
ing each row in the cluster, and curling up
the ends toward the sides. A pointed plas-
iron made in the same way then trims the
corsage, and similar points are on the sleeves
To complete such suit for travelling there
should be a long blue or brown cloth ulster
and bonnet of rough blue straw with the
brim covered with blue or brown velvet, as
is most becoming to the wearer. a rosette
of braid or of wool lace, or some "donkey's-
ear loops of wool or of Grape, should trim
the close round hat of felt or straw that many
ladies prefer to bonnets.
NEW FANcIEs.
Tartan velyets in the colors used by the
Scotch clans are To be worn as dress trim
mings, and also on bonnets.
Fancy ribbons of great width covered with
flowers or having alternate stripes of watere1
silk or faille and etamine interviewer with
metallic thread have superseded morie
antique sashes.
Two styles of wraps seem certain to be
popular this fall-the cloth mantle, with
long fronts, and the short jacket. with loose
sack 'front.' both of which were among the
high novelties of last spring.
Among the dry goods buyers who have
been laying in stocks for autumn the colors
TO rule are said to be- Browns, most of them
with CLINT of gold or touch of red; green's
with yellCwish tinges; blues with metallic
lustre, leaden, rather than steel; red i'm warm,
bright hues.
The white dresses 80 popular during the
summer for general wear will remain in
favor for house dresses throughout the
autumn. Those made of white serge will
have touch of color added by vest, collar,
and cuffs of the new plush with long pile,
and dotted with metal-like beads. White
pique dresses, with vest Of blue or black
velvet, will still be worn by those who Oh
ject to wool goods. A small Spanish jacket
of velvet or plush, rounded or square in
| front, and edged with the new rosary beads,
will also be worn with white dresses i'm the
house.
Stripes loom largely on the horizon of the
coming season. Many of the more recent
| plates in foreign fashion journals show
stripes in combination with plain goods
Pekin stripes all in one color am. stripes in