Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-12-05
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SATURDAY. DECEMBER s. 1885,


rise the folds of a tulle fichu, dotted with
bronze beading and crossed over in front,
| leaving the throat unineumhered, except
by the necklace with pendants, which
should be OF jewelry to match the dress.
Inc tram IS plain, but there is a panel
inserted the length of the back, of beaded
tulle. outlined with cascade at each
side, of wide antique lace, which falls
equally over the tulle aud satin.
DINNER DRESSES
for two young ladies, made and sent by
the same house. consist of cream silk lace
skirts, with stripes of garnet and old gold,
ana bronze, and old gold in small squares
lnterlaced; dividing the front into panels.
The low basque bodice is Of velvet in the
dark shade, with a front of interlaced
squares matching the stripes, and strings
OF dull amber beads, iestooned from the
| top OF the shoulder, and descending upon
the arm, forming the only attempt at a
sleeve. The edge OF the velvet was desE-
tute OF any sign of lace or tulle at the
neck, but the lower edge of the basque
was outlined with small amber beads,
thrown up very effectively by the wide
garnet MORE sash ia one case, and the
bronze In the other, which were arranged
over the cream lace draperies at the back.
Many ladies have had ietted bOdices,
with transparent sleeves, made for wear
with black lace skirts; while for young
ladies, the low, square, or V-shaped
basque-b0dice of velvet or satin in ruby,
or garnet, or brown, or bronze is ready,
with its pretty cream lace draperied skirt
for theatre, party, or both. as the case
may be.
Dresses not imported are more conve-
niently made of combinations of velvet
and brocade, brocade and satin, satin and
crepe de chine, or Ottoman silk with some
rich trimming material to give the effect
i've touch which every one feels is requir-
ed in dressy costume, no matter how
modest its pretensions. In dresses Of
plain rich faille, this touch may be added
by full vest of rich watered silk outlined
with revers faced with watered silk and
expanding into an outstanding collar,
lined with silk but covered with lace. A
side panel may also be introduced, barred
across with narrow iaille ribbons, tied in
small fiat bows without ends and the vest
may be made to match.
FUR AND FURRED TRIMMINGS
are now lashionably. as we'll as popularity,
worn than at any time within the past 20
years. The trimmings have, however,
largely superseded furs proper; furred
cloths are not only employed In this way,
but they are made up to match trimmings
| into NUTS and collarettes, into capes and
| pelerines, at home as well as by the
nlOdiSte. Ladies have discovered by ex-
periments in refining and making the
/ little pocket muf that the construction of
the ordinary mutt Is very simple affair;
a pattern, little dizziness in mapipula-
| ton, and compile of hours suflicing,
while the cost, including the neryesse tIal
satin bow to match the costume, is a
trite compared with a ready-made pur-
chase OF the same appearance and
quality.
Shoulder capes and pelerines made of
furred cloth or plush lined with old gold,
bronze or dahlia red quilted satin, are
now much used over dinner and evening
dresses OF light materials Especially
those made with low bOdices in cases of
chill or draughty rooms or exposure to an
open window. They are convenient also
in riding, with a round "COnnemaTa"
cloak, if without cape of their own; for
their is nothing now more fashionable
than an IRISH peasant cloak of fine dark
blue cloth, lined with dark-red plush and
finished with a cape of velvet astrakhan or
plush lined also and thrown back on one
side to show the color.
There is comparatively little use for in
dependent fur articles in the street, furred
and fur trimmings encircling the throat
so as to render them quite unnecessary.
All jackets are now made with the high
''officer'sr collar, and this and the bor-
dering are of fur, while the lining, of vel
vet or handsome cloth, is often Of rich silk
plush of contrasting color.
Coats, also. are finished in the same
way, the mutf and hat being often made
from the same piece of cloth or velvet,
and all bordered with bands Of the fur,
beaver upon russell brown, astrakhan
or grebe upon bottle green, black martin
or lynx upon black or indigo, blue and
Alaska seal or sable upon Leaf or bronze
brown.
Leopard plush, introduced last season,
can never be popular; but some striking
costumes have been made by combining it
with velvet and using it for panels, fronts,
long pelerines, vests and the crown of the
bonnet. The cOnvOluted and spotted fig
ures are in shades Of brown upon tinted
white, and the combination is made with
golden brown velvet or cloth, lined with
old gold.
BONNETS.
The coif-shaped bonnets to which l al
luded in my last, are growing in favor.
Some are made in beads, sewn closely
upon foundation, with rim OF larger
beads surrounding the face, others are of
fur or furred cloth, seal or astrakhan, or
the soft, closely eurled lambs wool; the
Golf, of course, matching the trimming OF
the coat or costume, or rather the trim
mings matching the Golf. Exquisite colts
| are made of clear garnet beads, outlined
with cut garnets, and worn with suit OF
garnet velvet and faille, or with velvet
trimmed with garnet beaded embroidery
IN the form Of vest, high collar and bands,
or concentrations upon the front, the
deep color tempered with lead or steel,
and the gray and garnet lntermixed in
the threads OF the aigsette, which with its
clasp, is the only addition that can be
made to the cOnventually simple form of
the colt bonnet. Next to the Golf, the
cap bonnet, with its plated front
| is, perhaps, tho newest and most taxing
form. The soft crown Is laid in irregular
! folds and cut all in one, with the pliable
lines which are laid in pleats over the
forehead, but not at the sides. The velvet
! or cloth may be brown, ruby, bronze or
any other dark handsome shade, the lining
will be old gold, dahlia, red, wine color or
amber. The trimming is mounted upon
the top, and consists OF loops Of the rich
i plush velvet and gold, brocaded, striped
: or tapestred ribbons, which have been
the revelations in this department Of the
last few seasons. Very little trimming
is used upon late Partisan bOnnets, their
distinction being mainly drawn from the
tasteful shapes and artistic manipu-
latiOns of the materials. The novel dis
tributiOn OF folds and fulness in crowns
quite takes away the "bare-backed" APP
pearance which has become a matter Of
complaint, and, indeed, in many cases the
trimming ornaments In the back Of the
bonnet uuite as much as the front. the