St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-06-21
MODERN TASTE IN PERFUMES.
Sweet Scents and Lovely Odors Now
Most Favored in Society.
Interviews With Perfumer and
Prominent Society Lady.


Nearly every lady uses some sort of per-
! fumery; her odor case is an important if not
indispensable adjunct to her complete and
satisfactory toilet. 1t was only few years
| ago that some one declared that the use of
perfume was plebeian; that none but the
French peasantry in Europe employed it
generally. The idea became American, and
| for time no woman who aimed at social
position dared commit the indiscretion of
| using any kind Of odOr. ''Its use is a
practical admission of uncleanliness, said
Fashion, and what lady would dare make
that admission?
GA great change has taken place in re-
spect to the use of Odors," said a prominent
perfumer to reporter the other day. '"The
perfume trade was never more brisk than
now and it is constantly on the increase"
''What Odor is the most popular?" asked
the reporter.
H'That all depends upon the purchaser.
Ladies dOnot buy odors at random, for their
use has become distinguishing feature OF
their toilet. Why, just think of it; what
would be your impression of a well-dressed
woman redolent with the fumes of pat
chouh? You would think her a woman of
loud tastes, if not fast one, and your
judgment would be correct"
''It is possible, then, to locate lady's
social position by means of ones olfactor-
ieS?"
$50 far as her natural tastes and tenden-
cies are concerned, yes; a lady Of delicate
and refined tastes will use delicate odor in
pertaining herself"
what are considered the most delicate
Odors, such as lady Of sensitive tastes
would select?'
lone of the most fashionable perfumes
now used by ladies in the best social circles
is one of a very faint but sweet OdOr. Those
perfumerS and chemists who have the select
trade sell this perfume most exclusively.
Next to it, however, are ranked those made
from two favorite spring flowers"
''What are distinguishing characteristics
of the perfume of which you speak that
makes it so popular with society women?"
''Well, it is an extremely delicate odor or
combination of odors, which produces upon
the senses feeling of delight, such as is ex-
perienced by inhaling the odors waited from
garden full of flowers. The perfume is a
bouquet, that is mixture of many different
floral extracts"
''What other odors or perfumes would it
risk of being set back in che social scale?'
Perfumes classify their odors according
to their rank; this list is based upon the
fneneSs and delicacy of the different per-
fumes from the manufacturers point of
view. There are eighteen perfumes of the
first rank
ga second list, which occupies similar
rank to the first, but which contains odors
for which special tastes must be cultivated,
comprises eight perfumes. Some of the
OdOrs in this list are the most expensive of
any in use. The altar Of one in particular
costs $50 per ounce. Yet a great many
people cannot use it; it is an odor which
one must cultivate taste for Then there
is another list of four odors which rank we'll
and whose use is matter of taste. Musk
is perfume which few ladies use, not that
fashion has uttered it's edict against it so
much as the fact that the odOr is disagree
able to many. It is the most lasting Odor
in the world"
A prominent society woman was seen.
''Why do you use perfumery?" bluntly i'll
terTogated the reporter.
GAS well ask why do wear bracelets,
rings or other articles of jewelry. 1t is
custom, suppose"
The lady desired to know the object of
the reporter in thus catechising her before
consenting to answer further questions.
She readily, however, accepted his explana-
ton, and volunteered this information:
II think the average woman who aSpires to
an observance of society's demand pays as
much attention to the selection of her per-
fumes as to that Of almost any article of
dress. A lady should use odors of such
quality or combination and in such man.
ner that pleasant perfume may be detected
by those in her vicinity without their being
able to detect what it is or whence it pro-
ceeds. Nothing is more vulgar than for a
woman to half stihe those in her presence
with, it may be- some obnoxious perfume.
Such persons should be assigned separate
apartment where they may enjoy their own
fumes without disgusting others. l have
used the favorite odor you name, but am
partial to another, which is extremely deli
cate and not sufficiently powerful to offend
the most sensitive organs of SMELL
''How do you use perfumery to secure the
best effect?"
II keep several pieces of pumice stone
which occasionally saturate with per-
fumery and place them in my wardrobe,
glove-boxes, &c. ] find this very simple,
easy and efficacious way of distributing the
Odor evenly and preventing an excess in
quantity"
From the above testimony it is seen that
it is eminently proper to use perfume in the
toilet, that care should be exercised in the
selection of perfumery and thatit should be
judiciously administered.