The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-08-22
SUGGESTIONS OF FALL STYLES.

SUGGESTIONS OF FALL STYLES.
The French apron overdresses are very long.
but SO lightly draped in the back to give ne
trouble with their wrinkling which always fol-
lows when travelling.
In Paris, says London Truth the TRIMMINGS
OF the high hats are all to be placed at the back,
and the effect is just as though the hat had been
put on with the back to the front
Fancy ribbons of great width, covered with
flowers, or having alternate stripes of watered
silk, faile and etamine interviewer with
metallic thread have superseded MORE antique
sashes
Two styles of wrap seem certain to be POPULAR
this fall-the cloth mantle, with long fronts.
and the short jacket with loose sack front.
both of which were among the high novelties OF
last spring.
Browns, most of them with a CLINT Of gold OF On
touch OF red; green's, with yelowish tiBgess
blues, with metallic lustre, leaden rather than
steel; red in warm, bright hues-these bid fsiE
to rule during the coming season
Travelling cloaks are in Fedora or Raslaz
shape, and cover the whole dress, effectuaily
protecting it from dust The colored linen coE~
lars and cuffs lately introduced have been gener%
ally adopted for wear with cloth suits, and are
especially nice for travelling
The craze for velvet has probably reached its
height, inasmuch as it is difficult to see how i'd
could further go. 1t, however, shows no sign OF
U6cllulnR. Inc OWlSS DelG ana JIlo yelVet Z0uaV@
are its latest adaptations. Both of these are be-
coming to good figures and disastrous to dumpy
ones.
Haf-worn basques are nicely remodeled by On
trimming put down the fronts, rounding under
the arms like Zouave, and ending in postihoH
in the back. Short lengths of sash ribbon, both
wide and narrow, can be utilized by arranging
them as narrow vests, shirring them at tho
throat and again at the waist.
Travelling dresses for early fall are Of Light
weight woolen, made in tailor style. Good lasts
requires that they shall be as close reefed al
possible, with no pleatings puffngS to catch
dust. The hat, or small bonnet, may be eithe9
one of the felts, which are almost without
weight, or of cloth to match the dress.
Celuloid collars are rarely worn by Americans
women. except with bathing suits. They are
however, eagerly adopted by English women foe
travelling, and The Queen and other journals foF
women contain letter after letter in their praise.
One woman claims to have travelled all over the
continent with one celluloid collar and pair Oh
cuffs to match, which she wiped off every morn
ing with damp sponge
Every possible arrangement of lace for the
neck is worn One of the prettiest, and at theS
same time one of the easiest to make of Theses
consists of from FIVE to six yards of lace, black
or white, not less than three inches wide. This
is gathered to half its length and is then doubled
and sewed together, making full rufle yard
and half long. 1t is then opened out and VOTE
around the neck to suit the fancy.
Sashes form conspicuous part of the costume.
If tied about the waist they must be knotted at
the side. sash worn under a pointed bodice
or one with basque is often made Of breadths OF
silk, either fancy or brocaded. The breadJhs are
folded and blind stitched together to form the
long loops, while the ends reach to the hem OF
the skirt Partlyworn silk trains may be util-
lied for these sashes, which may be arranged al
the back of the dress. If the bodice be of the
same material as the sash the effect leaves noth~
ing to be desired.
One lady, whose costumes have been much
chronicled by fashion writers this summer, is
said by her friends to have but two really hand
some dresses in her wardrobe, the one Of black
thread, the other of fine Point Angaise lace, IN
white. But the black lace has three under
dresses, one of black, one of orange and one Ok
red satin, while the white lace is worn in turn
over pale blue, ivory. and pink surah. with
Jewels and ribbons varied to suit, thus making
six superb costumes, which one must study
closely to that in each the laceS are i0an-
tlcal.
The white shirts. in soft muslin, are being
greatly worn with cotton and even woolsn
dresses and look pretty and cool The bodice
is usually made to close at the throat and waist
but open between with the center of the 'FRONT.'
cut away. The shirt piece is attached to back
ground and put on before the bodice is fastened
1t is pinned or hooked down each side to keep 70
in its place. Sometimes the shirt IS simulated
and fixed to the front of the bodice. with faAsS
hem down each side to give the desired appear
ance. These full shirt fronts can be varied in
many ways, colored materials and lace used
when desired but the most simple and styhsh
are the shirts of white lawn and muslin.
A woman with high, bold expansive foFs-
head must consider well whether 1t VIII lIEely
add to her attractiveness to drag her haH
straight back from her face, or TO lightly SHADOW
and soften and relieve the amplitude OF neg
brow by the aid of gracefully falling, lighss
feecv locks. The general contour OF the faeer
its sharpness or roundDess, broad or con-
tracted brow. the shape and natural pose OF the
head, the nose tptilted, plugged, pointed Or
fat, and other conditions and surroundings muss
enter into the question of hair arrangements and
fashion never did nor ever can invent an lnfaisI-
BILE rule which all women may bhndlysGnd sue
cessfuly follow.
NJ Chevreul the chemist of the Academy OF
Science although he will complete his lU0th
wear in a few days is not too old to discuss tina
interesting question of bonnets' and millinery
black bonnet, he says, with white, pink, OK
red feathers or flowers suits fair complexion.
dead white hat is only suitable for ford COM
piexions whether blondes or brunettes. A whlte
bonnet for blonde should have white or PINK
flowers, blue is still better Brunettes shonid
avoid blue and rather choose red. pink or orange.
Light blue bonnets are specially suitable ZOE
fair persons For dark persons who
venture to wear blue bonnet, yellow Is
indispensable. A green bonnet sets OH a pale
or slightly colored complexion plhN o"nnse
should not be too the face, but should be
separated by he hair or by white or green
inside trimming the latter color especially. "A
dark red bonnet is only suitable Tor persons With
a highly colored complexion. Avoid yellow or
orange bonnets Violet is not to be recon-
mended unless separated from the face. not
only by the hair but by yellow accessories also%
Paris Should Be Humiliated.
Partisan startles some of his countrvmes bv