The Evening critic. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1881-1885, 1885-01-01
THE PROPER GARB,
What Gentleman Callers Should
Wear To-day.
MORNING DRESS IN ORDER.
" Critic" Reporter BY b High Au-
thority--Various Sage Observations
On Style and Taste-An Unerring
Rule.

The brain OF the average young man is In a
tumult now over the stupend0us question,
what shall be worn on New Years2" Every
recurring let OF January this mighty query
comes 70 the front as saucy ana as undaunted
as II It had never before presented itself be.
fore long-suirerlng public for recognition.
The strife and bitterness II has brought on 80.
ciety has not found It's equal IN any dispute
since the days OF the Arians and tho Altman
asians. The fierce quarrel as to whether the
"swallow.tail' or the "Pflnce Albert" should
DO the preferred garment has torn apart life.
long friends and carried woe irto many
harmonious household.
The battle has ragged unevenly. At times the
"swallow.tail" party have appeared to have
gained the ascendaucy. At other times tle
Prince Albert" advocates glorled IN trl.
umph.
This important question has invaded many
OF the homes OF this city. Narrowing as IL is
TO say II is yet fact that II turks as skeleton
In tho closet In many an otherwise happy
home.
Actuated by purely philanthropic desire to
find settlement OF this controversy, THE
CRITICS decorative art reporter sailed out re.
Gently and sought one who had previously
given him "pointers" on bric.a-brac, dad0s,
friezes, and subdued harmony. He trusted
that his Mentors brain had grasped and
solved the sublimities Of the New Years dress
question. Happily he was right. The Mentor
on decorative art gave him such learned
dissettationlon the Significance OF dress that
the reporter lays before THE CRITIC readers
the result OF his inquiries.
"The gentleman" began the Authority, "al-
ways consulte, in dressing for any occasion,
the habits and rules OF the society he moves
in. II 10 as much an offense to wear full dress
in some places as II is to appear In a business
suit in others, for the reason that either would
make him conspicuous, and this is 10 be
avoided, One OF the laws rlgidly established
in fashion is that gentleman should always
wear evening dress whenever o. appears in
society at dinner or attor dinner, and the din
ner hour makes tho division between day and
night.
shall never, under any circumstances, wear
that In the day time. A change of costume at
nightfall is, therefore, imperatively neces.
sary, II the rule Of fashion can enforce any
thing. You must not be mlsled by the fact
that You have learned to call afternoon even.
Ing That is merely a local application OF the
word ana only obtains in certain sections OF
the United States. Everywhere else evening
begins at about the hour OF dusk or at q O'Clock.
"In come communities" he resumed, "a
man would be as conspicuous to wear a swal-
low'tail coat at any hour as 1t would make
him appear without any coat In other places.
Now, II his New Years calls are to be made IN
the evening on people With any pretentlons 10
elegance he Will wear evening dress; but no
man with any knowledge OF good manners
viii appear anywhere In an evening suit in
the daytime.
"a New Years call is generally ceremoni-
Gus Visit, and should be paid IN full dress,
which constitutes a frock coat, either single or
double-breasted, which must be dark color,
black being considered the most elegant The
| coat this season is a tribe shorter than the
| one made last year. The vest may be cut low
show an elegant shirt front, or high II to be
worn with scarf II cut low 1t should have
four buttons. The trousers may be OF fancy
pattern, and even OF light color.
"a SILK hat should be worn during the day,
and be In accordance with the ivory best
usage, an opera hat in the evening; though a
SILK hat may DO worn after dark. If the opera
hat is worn II may be carried into the parlor,
under the arm. The latest style OF overcoai
| TO DO worn over evening dress Is a sack made
10 Mt like raglan, six or eight sizes larger
than required. The gloves should be OF a very
delicate tint, If not white. The latter are worn
| In Paris this season.
SIN the daytime darker colors should be
| worn, without the heavy stitching on the back
| which are more appropriate for driving or the
| promenade, but out OF place In the parlor, on
| New Years day. The tie In the evening should
| be white satin; black may BIO worn, but 1t is
| not so much in favor. The less jewelry man
| wears the better dressed he is. One stud IL
| better than three. II a vest chain is worn II
| should be Of black silk, or very light gold, A
heavy vest chain is considered loud"