The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1885-05-13
THE DRAMA OF CLOTHES
THE ERA OF SUMPTUoUs COSTUMES
AND ACTRESSES WHO WEAR THEM.
Mrs. John HOey and Madeleine Henriques'
GOwns-Fanny DavenPOrt's Costumes.
Mary AndersOn's JeweIs-AIarm-
ing Growth of Stage Luxury.
Isnecial Correspondence.l


NEW YORK, Feb. 19.-It is so long since the
wearing of rich clothes became an important
part of an actresses equipment that the pres
emit generation of playgOers scarcely remem-
Der when the imaginary splendOr of cotton
velvet imitation lace and very pasty jewels
satisfied the most exacting manager and
audience
The last quarter Of a century has changed
nearly every part of the pictorial side of play
giving; but in nothing has the change been
so great as in costuming. Whereas, before
the war, actresses were content to present in
their characters a semblance of what women
in real life would wear in similar circum-
stances, now, if they do not appear in gar
ments infinitely more sumptuous and SPLEEN
did than any refined woman in private life
would wear, they and their public feel that
they are not properly dressed. Enormous as
the salaries of leading ladies" sometimes
sound to outsiders as a matter Of fact, they
often do not more than cover the actual ex-
penses of the actress who provides her own
clothes. In special instances where some I'M
usual expense is to be incurred, the manage
ment will pay a portion of the cost of a set Of
costumes; but, in that case, the management
retains a lien on the garments, which the
wearer can only make entirely her own by
buying out the other interest.
Clothes have become so vastly important
that young aspirants for theatrical appear
ance usually prepare certain number of
gowns, etc, before offering their talents to
any manager, and generally head their table
of qualifications with 81 have very hand
some wardrobe"
Although managers are themselves largely
responsible for this, it has become such
nuisance to them that one of the principal
among them is reputed recently to have said,
in moment of irritation, to a stage-struck
girl who had applied to him for position,
'tMadan1, your clothes are certainly very
handsome and 1 shall be happy to give
them an opening on such and such an
evening, but you viii allow me to add
that have seen nothing in your performance
to-day which leads me to think that your
presence upon the occasion will increase their
interest. Good morning, Madam, good
mOrning!"
1t was about twenty-five years ago that
Mrs. John Hoey, then leading lady of Wal
lacks Theatre, set the fashion of elaborate
stage dressing. But the elaborateness of that
time would be provincial simplicity COM
pared with that of this hour. Mrs. John
Hoey was the wife of a rich man, and aspired
to be leader of society as well as a stage
favorite, and doubtless the idea of improving
her professional costunning arose from the
social observation of the value of good
clothes However that may be, she used to
wear them in public as in private, and was
very fres to say that her husbands liberal
income, not her salary, provided them.
Salaries in those days were hardly 1.-THE
OF what they are now, and it would have
been literally impossible for woman of Mrs.
Hoey's expensive tastes to have gratifed
them with what she earned. Mrs. Heey was
not handsome, but tall and slender; she had
considerable 'tstyle,n and she was a good
Judge of what became her. For some time
she carried or the mantuan honors in little
contested field, until Miss Madeleine Hen
riques, now Mrs. Louis J. Jennings, wife of
the London journalist of that name-made
her debut at WalIack's. Miss Henriques. like
Mrs. Hoey, had wealth and some social posi-
ton, and the still greater advantages of
youth and beauty. She was one of the pref
tiest women who have played during the
past two or three decades, and was scarcely
compelled to make up'' at all. OF medium
nelSnC, she nad round ngure, without being
in any way stout Her dark, soft hair waved
without the aid of pins and pincers; her brown
eyes were bright and roguish, and her mouth
and teeth were charming Her appearance,
indeed, was quite enough to give color to the
gossip of the time, that Mrs. Hoey regarded
her with anything but feelings of amity.
Her youth permitted her a simplicity of
toilet which her elder rival could not wear
becomingly, while the brilliance Of her
beauty made any splendor Of decoration emf
nently suitable. While Mrs. Hoey much
affected rich reds, deep yellows and shades
that were almost substance in themselves,
Miss Henriques was more apt to choose soft
fawns and grays and white, which showed
her delicate complexion to the very best adj
vantage. The Unconditional critics used to
say that Miss Henriques wasn't much of an
actress, despite her gowns; but who shall
say? She has been twenty years in private
life. Her acting is only memory at best;
but her beauty and her gowns are as indis-
putable to-day as when they frightened tbs