The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1885-07-29
FASHION As. 1T FLIES.
Midsummer Toilets-Gathered Waists-A
Key-uOte of Lace.

Keynote of Lace.
Gathered waists are the fashion of the sea-
son for oil thin fabrics and for light summer
silks. Lace dresses, gauzes, grapes, silk
muslins India silks, and all thin wash goods,
such as lawns and muIls, are made up in
some one of the various designs that have
full waists shirred in rows or merely gather
ed in single row. The most dreSsy of
these waists is the shirred basque with the
front and middle back forms shirred at the
neck and again at the waist line The collar
is very high and close about the throat, and
the slight shirring is just below it, consist
ing of not more than three or four rows very
near together; at the line of the waist in
front there are many rows of shirring, while
the back has only few rows extending be-
tween the seams of the side forms; the mid
die back forms are not separated by a seam
up the middle, but are cut in one piece in
the old-fashioned way. The lining of trans
parent lace or muslin basques is cut low in
the neck, either square or in V shape. There
are short cap sleeves set In the armholes. An
edge of narrow lace, usually Nalenciennes
for light fabrics, and black French lace for
darker dresses, edges the neck and sleeves of
the lining, which may be either linen or else
silk. Sometimes the basque is fan shape,
with the fullneSs OF the front
carried back along the Shout
der seams; this gives the appearance of a
greater bredth and is used by very slender
fined to the top of the BASQUE. while fine
pleats or tucks are laid at the waist line and
for some distance around it. The round
belt waist is also made in various ways, the,
simplest and most popular form being that
with a single row of gathering in the front
and back where il is attached to the belt.
This is made without a lining by amateur
dreSS-maSers, as ii is then more easily fitted
and is worn over a prettily trimmed corset
cover the modistes prefer to have lining of
linen or of the dress goods itself sewed in
with the seams TO strengthen them but this
does not answer with wash dresses, as the
two different materials will not shrink in the
same proportion after being washed. Anoth-
er full waist very much used by those with
slight figures has the top shirred from the
neck low down on the bust to- represent a
round yoke; the lines of gathering are three
fOurthS of an inch apart, and extend around
the neck and shoulders, making the waist
quite low above the armholes.
White null and Valenciennes trimmed
dresses have this shirred cOrsage, or else the
plain belted waist and black velvet ribbon
belt confines them to the waist. The neck
has Nalencennes lace turned down around
it in close collar that is also very high, or
else the lace forms puff with frill below
It, Still Others have rows OF Nalenciennes
insertion forming point down the back and
front below the neck. and others have the
entire waist made of stripes insertion alter
mating with null stripes.
KEYNOTE OF LACE.
There are a host of dainty and pretty nov
elites shown for beautifying the upper pOr-
| ton of the summer toilets for young and
| DID, and lace is the keynote to nine out of
| ten of these accessories, which appear in the
| shape of quaint antique collars OF the Dau-
| phin. Stuart, Sevigne, Carrick, and Charles
| TX. styles, and an innumerable array of
creamy jabots and snowy fchus, all OF which
| act like magic in the transformation of
| plain toilet into one both dreSsy and charm
| ing. The Dauphin collar is very frequently
| made of the very beautiful India or Madras
| muslin fabrics matching the toilet. One of
| the CaintieSt of these show cream ground,
! figured with crimson rose-budS and fine
| green leaves. A wide pleating of the muslin,
| lace-edged is turned over, with two scarf
| ends coming from under the front edges of
| the collar thus formed, and tying loosely in
| graceful knot in front. A crimson silk
| velvet collar, edged with cream lace pleat
ings, meets just at the top in front
then slopes away SharplV
| showing the triangular space between the
| front edges OF the collar, this filled in by
| the gathered ends of the muslin scarf. A SIM
| liar collar was made of white India silk mus
| lin, brocaded with fine blue velvet flowers;
| the scarf was edged with cream lace, and the
| collar made of pale blue velvet. Very lovely
| lace pelerlnes are made OF oriental Heuncing
| lace three-quarters of yard deep. These
| are simply shirred in at the top in gathers
| close enough to fit the neck, and a five-inch
/ fuffie of like design forms the collar. which
| falls over the shirring. A narrow c0lOred
| satin ribbon fastens the pelerine in front,
| giving little color-note TO the toilet This
| ribbon is often changed to match with the
/ tint of the various silk gloves and the bonnet
/ adOrnings. Another more useful cap, but
| one not so airy and light was shown re-
| Gently, which was made of the most delicate
| and feecy white zephyr, crocheted in lace
/ pattern worked with white silk floss and run
| through the open mesheS with white satin
| ribbons. The beauty of this piazza wrap
| consisted III its finish at the edge of q frill OF
| very lovely white lace, which was set beneath
the crochet bordering around the entire
| wrap and below the zephyr collar. The eff
| feet of the lace and zephyr was novel, but ex-
| tremely effective and chaste. One of pale
| mauve, edged with beige lace, and another of
| bebe blue finished with frills of cream-col-
| ored Spanish blonde, were much admired :;
but the white ones, both in cream and ivory
tints were the most delicate and ladylike,
| and the better choice as they could be worn
over any toilet while the colored ones could
not.
| Nalenciennes is the favorite trimming
lace for the light green, cream, or rose pink
China silks, and for the India silks that have
cream grounds, with red, blue, or green fig
| ureS or with flowers that combine all these
colors. Such dresses have one or two lace
| fiounces around The foot of the skirt, and
successive rows of the fiounceS pass up one
side to the hip and are laid on dark silk,
either red, blue olive green. The skirt is
then formed by gathering the breadths slight
~ at the lower end, sewing them to the top
of the founees, where they droop slightly,
and then draping them above in curved tab
Tiers for the front, and in straight long full
breadths behind The wrinkled front
breadth can be held in place by velvet rib
bon bows set on at intervals, and these bows
trim the corsage on the breast, the
| slice, es and the back of the basque.