Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-05-02

mer OutGfs-Dressirs at the Thea,
tiers.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. May 1.
White and very light toilets now the best
evidence of distinction and the refinement
which accompanies cultivation Abroad, espc
cially in France, in Russia, and {mea-ureabiy
In Germany, this has been for many years
and in way that is not affected by fashion
The economy of dark colorS, which recon-
mends them TO English women. and renders
them necessity to business and professional
women, does not enter into the calculations oil
the fashionable leaders OF society. If it did,
they would not be leaders. They must in their
way, have the courage and nerve OF other lead
discourage to waste and nerve to s;3end-or
they could not achieve success in their rate.
Now that trains are confined To the drawing
room and jewels to dowaSe.S. Ceiicacy OF tint
most strikingly marks the difference between
poverty and wealth, work and leisure, those
who must take care Of themselves and those
who have others to care for them Ana 50 we
find exquisite dressing gowns Of white chud-
dab wool. lined with cream silk or satin;
walking dresses of creamy serge OF white cloth.
trimmed with braid or embroidery: dinner
dresses of white satin Surah, trimmed with
beautiful Spanish lace; and evening toilets Of
embroidered or plated gauZc or. lace, over sill.
or satin powdered with snow drops white
viOlets. and only fit seemingly for beings too
fair and fragile for earth.
loneliness never had better opportunity OF
being enhanced by dress than to-day; but alas!
II Il terribly tfNiEs 10 LIS ODpO 1Itc-ugl
Thick complexions, small duh eyes and heavy
inert bodies are only more conspicuous in light
colors and rich fabrics.
One beautiful young married woman has had
complete summer outfit made OF white mate
rails in various TINS and stuff, with little
variation in accessories TO her numerous COS
tunes and toilets. For example one OF her
dresses l. n complete costume IN soft White
corded silk wonderfully embroidered i'll shaded
white, and tea roses; bonnet and small ma tle
to match. trimmed with lovely Maidcn-hair
fern lace. The parasol matches the dresses and
mas border OF roses in foi.tSc, hand cInbruid-
cred like the dress, and a TALL oi lace from the
canopied ,op. This costume Is to be worn at ii
rose fete which She will give in June. OF two
white walking dresses one IS cream serge
trimmed with cream silk braid the front cut iii
square turret shape over Il double knife pleat-
Ing at the edge; straight plated back and
plated bodice. The other is OF cloth with fine
gold embroidery upon the front and bodice,
clustered plaits at sides, and stra ght piaits at
the back The basque is short and pointed, the
embroidery outlining vest.
An evening dress is Of gathered game over
ivory silk, the skirt straight and powdered all
over with white vioiets, the stems % which are
passed through a tiny loop in the Saulc. Thu
is the second dress of the kind seen here-the
first described some months ago.
Another charming toilet, whie.l may be used
for dinner or evening wear. is of white canton
crepe over satin embroidered with Japanese
gold thread and silk upon the front of the skirt.
below pulled apron of the crepe and also upon
the front OF the pointed bodice. The sleeves
are of canton crepe tied around the arm above
the elbow, with pale yellow satin ribbon, and
hanging loose and straight from the upper arm:
with border formed Of fringe of Japanese COLO,
thread and tied and twisted Japanese silk.
garden party dress consisted of basque
bodice and side panierS- OF cream summer silk
plush, with interior facing of silk and r,,cfIc
of wide lace arranged in shells around the neck
and down the front over short skirt OF satin
with trTse velvet nont. and sides draped with
lace arranged to match the bodice. y large
white hat with edge OF gold and trimming oil
feathers fastened with a diamond buckle, COM
pieted this costume.
TINTS AND TONES.
hoo \, frrl,
as we'll as the possibilities OF beauty in its vari-
Gus tints, is great argument in its favor. 1t Is
said, and said truly. that the accommodations of
DUST, and even odor, III garments long worn and
not cleaned because their color conceals their
condition. is not only an outrage upon ali ideas
OF personal delIcacy. but detrimental To- health.
Inc more Often clothes need washing the bet
ter and the cost of keeping them clean oug mt to
be part of every refined womans calculations
Young girls especially need to have the neces-
SHY o! cleanliness as associated with hea!tlIfuI-
ness and high. pure type of develOpInent strong
ly impressed upon them as much good would be
accomplished by using for our girls simpler but
purer materials and expanding the money now
employed in bangles and SNOWY ornaments in
cleaning their white WOODEN or linen dresses.
Fashion now admits OF the wearing of undyed
unbeached and undreSsed materialS-tilat is
materials in natural tints, without stiffening or
art1nclal coloring. The lovely effect of the com
bination Of these delicate natural tints can he
seen in the union of tinted whites with pale
eerus. the flax color with natural brown, and
the variety and beauty to be attained in shading
from tinted white To brown.
The mischievOus effect of modern aniline
color is patent enough in hosiery. veiIings rib
bons and handkerchiefs which have been
proven 10 be the cause OF dreadful eruptionS
80 we'll is this understood now that the best OF
the secondary kinds of hosiery are all made
with white feet, so that the color will not be So
likely to come off by wear and contact.
Some OF the loveliest of the summer dress
materials have tinted grounds covered with an
open ecru and white embroidery. The soft
ness and refinement of the effect cannot be put
M hGr Nx-fth ii,
the desgns-the absence of cutting and bunch
ing-harmonizes most admirably with youth
and freshness in the wearers.
Young women are indeed to be congratulated
On having gotten rid of the trimming and over
laying. the elaborate draperes and numerous
accessories which added nothing to their at
fractions but years to their apparent age.
Large patterns, detached figures, fussy designs
and elaborate ornaments age The Wearpr as
much as they vulgarize her: and the yA,nr
whether married or unmarried, lose their CHIEF
charm when they lose that of youth.
A charming dress for a young girl shows n
skirt OF nne open embroidery, plain in front
but gathered at the back above a fine narrow
knife plating. The bodice is of embroidery,
Also belted in at the waist and finished with a
tinted satin belt, with loops at the side and hall
long sleeves. No lining is used and no overskirt
or drapery.
Another dress, a fete dress is of striped white
ganze iald In accordion pleats over "a white silk
skirt, which is also edged with plating. Cross
Wnite slik bodice, and an accordion plating to
match the skirt covers the par;lsol The large
nat is of transparent plated gauze, trimmed
WIFI iace ana shower of lilies OF the valley,
COMBINATIONS REQUIRING JUDGMENT
Yellow is as fashionable with white As II f.
with black; not the deep buttercup yellow but
the tint OF pale gold or a coppery yellow which
has decided suspicion of terra Gotta in it. Rib
bons, hosiery, gloves and flowers OF a pale vel
low color are often worn with white tints. and
the most distinguished form of decoration is
g0lu embroidery III pure Japanese thread upon
white cloth. f
But these combinations require taste and
Judgment In common shades and materials
they lose all depth and softness, and suggest
nothing but crude contrast. Tone and express
sion are now Sought after. AT least they are
beginning To be the phrases most used in regard
70 dreSs. Whether all those who employ them
understand their true and large meaning is not
at all likely; but ii is, at least better TO think
OF oreSs as meaning something than nothing
though what that something is be II little yaore
and underlined. Tone implies quality and The
relation OF every part or elemental attribute TO
the whole. This at once lifts dress info the re-
glon or the intellect, while expression brings it
into relation with art. Once women lose their
dependence upon Seif-conStitued authority and
begin TO think sensiby about dress as in REGARD
70 Other things, and ii will take on quite new
character. 1t will be expressive OF the woman
OF her tastes and aspirations.
DRESSING AT THE THEATER
In the production of a recent play at the Mad.
fson Square theater ('Sealed Instructions,1 the
general tone of the performance was well pre-.
served in the dresses, which exhibited NOTHING
OF the sensational extravaganza which formerly
disgraced the stage, but suited each character
and expressed its influence while ASSISTING N
form an harmonious and wei balanced whole.