St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-04-19
OLD TIME FASHIONS.
Revfvals of the Styles that Were in
Vogue With Our Great Grand
Mothers.
To be Old Fashioned in Dress is to be
in Fashion and
lingerie.

New YORK, April 16.-Oldtim edness is
stamped on new materials. New are the
mohairs, the poplins, mousseline de LANES
and challiers of twenty years ago, and new
are old sampler-stitch borders which deco
rate fine summer woOls-the two former
coming to us from last season; the latter OF
this year, a nd greeting elderly people with
the same bright SprigS and jaunty flower
irigs which adorned their youth and now
impart gayety of attire to sOmes daughter OF
grand daughter. Like visions OF their de-
parted springtime, too, come those sampler
stitch borders and costumes where the
quaint decoration appears on vests, fronts,
cuffs, collar and back draperies, will be
among the most pleasing of spring outfits.
Yet not more so than white woods be-
trimmed with gilt OF silver cords laid on in
vermicelli or coral designs, as may seem
convenient, sometimes profuSe, and
IMPARTING GREAT RICHNESS
as where vest, collar, cuffs and portions OF
the skirt are thus OVERLAND or again where a
few touches make up in delicate suggestion
for lack of abundant placing. Pale-colored
woods are Overlaid in the same way with
matching or harmOnizing silken cords, and
we are told that in comparison the flatneSs
OF braid has brought about fashionable
contempt, at least for snowy dresses, al
though in case OF many stylish costumes fol-
general wear braid is chosen above all other
garnitures. Ottoman silks are very fash
iOnable, with soft dull finish and the cord,
though not as heavy and broad as last sea-
son, is yet quite noticeable Watered silks
give change but do not interfere with the
popularity Of brocade, while satin de-
ties dismal prophecies and is used again
in handsome outfits. There never was
time when black lace has had more lead
ing position. it will constitute entire dresses
over a foundation Of cheap silk OF satin,
will tighten up beautifully better qualities
of the same or afford finish to MORE OF
brocade, while the elegance of velvet or its
representative, nOnpareil velveteen with
fast pile and rich shadowings, united with
lace, need only be suggested to persons of
taste,
TRIMMINGS.
Mr.. Weller's remark sits the seasonin'
as does it'' is standard ON its truth. ESpe
cially on the fronts OF dresses is a grand dis
play, and on plain material rich enough to
bear it are fronts composed wholly of pas
sementerie and fine silk cord. Many are
black but colOrs are well represented, while
irridescent beads are often added and glow
with rainbow changes. Evening dresses
are made gorgeous by the same
and nothing can be handsOmer than white
silk relieved by white cordings combined
with gold. Strong enough to form an indie
pendent kingdom, come independent passe-
menteries put on without rule or limitation,
and akin to these are fine beaded or fancy
galoons placed with skillful coquetry, es-
pecially liked for making fancy vests on
the front of plain material dresses, which
are relieved also On cuffs, collar and per-
haps elsewhere. A suit of this kind when
worn with one of the high hats, gives look
of aggressiveness, change maybe from too
much softness. From thence downwardS
we reach serviceable dresses where ineXpen-
sive braids relieve severity of tailor-made
suits and take the place Of combinations.
The family of fringes are of little account
beside the laces of the day. With the eX-
ception of chenille they are
REMANDED TO OBSCURITY,
and in their place comes lace more lace,
lace always. Fedora, Oriental and Mo-
rescue laces in ecru and colors flood the
market. High tide will be reached in mid
summer at watering places, and then of
course gradual ebbing. Beyond the
power of any garniture, however, is the
ribbon bow. First in coquetry, it holds the
maiden's heart, and what man so bold as
not to fear its fiuttering. Displace it you
cannot. Upheld by nature, it faunts de-
fiance, and this season especially will make
felt its power-a power not only of beautify-
ing, but of change. The bare dress is often
characterless, but put the bows on and you
render it what you would have it, Pale,
self-colOred costumes are rendered poetical
by bows of three or four pale-colored rib
bOnS placed in long panels on the skirt or
Stimulating vest on the cOrsage. An In
dian silk perhaps might seem feeble in tone
by reason of faint, delicate vines is given
strength, by bows of black velvet or an
swering touches can redOuble effects as
when a costume showing black and scarlet
figures is adorned at intervals likewise by
black velvet Bows will often nestle on
lace, particularly down the fronts of dresses.
THE SAME COMBINATIONS
will appear on skirts, or again the panel
idea will be carried out by a succession of
ribbon straps which support long Topped
bows. At the throat a long looped bow is
very stylish; something shorter, of course,
for the wrists, but much is left always to
individual taste. Thin gauze ribbons are
in demand for surahs and other thin stuffs,
but there is no rule.
ALPS ON ALPS.
High towering hats belle the modesty of
early importations. Brims spread an ample
circumference, and with Scarfs stretching
lengths of two yards and half by breadths
of eighteen inches as trimming, one can
easily concede that a hat and its belongings
become serious matter. Heraldic hand
kerchiefs as well are spread like banners
around turret crowns rising from ten to
twelve inches, while ostrich plumes find,
here especially, scope for that prolonged
sweep which bespeaks an envied ability to
spend money. As needed factor in the
management of these scarfs and handker-
chiefs come little pins. In small armies
they arise, and their gilt heads shine with
stylish tTinketS as they nestle among silken
folds keeping in position successive bunch
ings till formidable lengths are suitably dis
posed of and breadths to correspond dimin-
ish. The fabric, of course, is soft. some
times gauZy, and where greater body is
found dimensions are more moderate. But
these pins are a notable power, neverthe-
less, and
so FREELY USED
that on one bonnet we have record of fifty
having been employed. In writing of tall
crowns extreme limits have been quoted
and from thence we have gradual descents
while in many cases where the crown is
lowered almost to fairness the brim rises to
height over the forehead, which brings
about an equally pronounced result in a
different way, nevertheless there are many
unobtrusive shapes, but for a class who de-
light in the startling, peculiar opportunity
will be given.
APRIL NOTES.
While black silk stockings are still very
fashionable. yet they are not now appro-
pirate for white dresses unless the trim
mings are at least partly black. while with
colored dresses, it IS more stylish 10 wear
a stocking 70 match. When two or more