The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1885-11-25

fronts and box-pleated backs open from the
tournure down. These are trimmed with
wide collars and bands of Persian lambs
wool, plush ,.or fur, otter, natural beaver or
other short-haired varieties being first chosen
for wraps of this description. ~
Combination dresses of faille franchise
Bengaline, other repped silk with velvet are
among the most tasteful importations for
YIsTTTNs AND RECEPTION roILErTEs
These may be in monotone when the velvet
is figured or striped. but If two plain mate
rails are used, they are oftenest in contrast
ing colors. In these dresses there is greater
fullness in the skirts and very long draperies,
and the effect is given of one skirt opening
over another. As an example of monotone
dresses is a rich gown with the ample skirt
OF sapphire brocaded velvet, with large
raised velvet flowers or a ground OF repped
tuncutl velvet OF the same shade; this is ar
ranged with three straight back breadths of
velvet gathered to q very small space OH the
belt, while two front breadths nearly plain
at the belt drop down to form a long apron
shaped only by pleats catching up the sides.
and cut out In deep scallops across the foot
TO show border OF otter fur set on the foun-
dation skirt. Down each side hangs a sash
like breadth of Benaline Silk fringed at the
lower end and pleated into a space of two
inches at the belt; on one side this sash has
a deep loop falling from the belt but the
other is plain and straight The basque of
Bengaline has a square plastrOn of the fig
ured velvet, and is cut up in scallops below
this Plastron; there are also scallops at the
end OF the middle forms of the back. For a
dress IN contrasts of color seal brown Sici-
Henne or faille franchise is made up to open
over turquoise blue velvet skirt which
shows in wide band inlaid down the front
between three pleatS of the brown silk on
which are placed cross rows of blue bead
MI nf
not set stifiy, yet are held
well in place by the fringe; the silk drapery
back of the pleatS is caught up high on each
side. and descends again in the back to show
the blue velvet from belt to foot The BASQUE
is of the silk, with velvet vest and inside
cuffs. Plush skirts are used in the same way
under soft repped silk draperies, and in some
instances there are wide bands like borders
of metallic galloon straight around them:
as this galloon would sink into the deep
pile of the plush, modistes make tucks in
the plush, and attach the galloon to the
lower edge.
The New York Post says of
ARTISTIC GOWNS:
The idea seems to be very general that
dress, 10 be artistic and unique, must be ella
borate and intricate, and almost impossible
TO turn out success, even when made by
the most skillful and delft of American mod
.istes and manipulators. A dressmaker who
is mistress of her art, and can create a toilet
OF modern fit and finish, can quite as easily
produce one that shall prove a faithful rep
reSentation of the robes of other days, pro-
vided she has made study either of antique
portraits or of the different styles of cos
TUNES of various centuries. There is a pc
culiarly quaint and odd appearance about
the portraits of the reigning queens of sOcie-
ty OF the fifteenth century, which have at
fractions all their own, and pictures of later
date which present the magnificent robes of
Florentine and Venetian women, are all
beautiful and unique, showing notifications
of the older-fashioned fancies of the fif
tenth century; but, after all they are in n
degree superior in beauty. coloring, fabric
or design, and no more difficult TO re-
produce than the hundreds of artistic luxur-
ious, and intricate toilets which come to Us
every season from the hands of gifted French
designers. Indeed, the low, square-cut
smOck frock, with a Vatican effect in the
back, the bewitching Greek dress with its
chaste folds and graceful drapings; the Flor
entine robe, with pulled sleeves, square bod
ice. open over a guimpe or chemisette of
tulle, and many other historical STYLES are
simple in the extreme compared with many
of our toilets laden with garnitures fit for
queens and princesSes, and triumphs of Par
isian art as to fit and construction. In or
dering or making an artistic gown taste and
a true eye are the only real essentials. a very
beautiful artistic dress may be made of a
simple perfectly fitting princess dress of
white surah, the antique or artistic effect
depending solely upon the arrangement Of
the neck and sleeves, these imparting the
quired flavor of originality. They may be
decorated with pearl-covered fraises, puffs,
applique bands or lines of gold or silver en-
brOidery velvet bodice, silver chate
laine and aumOniere, antique jewels for
wrists and throat. round feather fan. each
and all are accessories which should accom-
pany the dress to carry out the idea taste
fully. A softly draping cashmere, cut en-
princesse, with square open bodice and
chemisette Russo, makes very attractive,
artistic house dress, also a cream serge. with
bands of ruby or golden-brown velvet as gar
niture. There are scores of pretty and
bewitching ideas to act upon. but perhaps
the most successful and attractive styles are
those which, while avoiding the extreme OF
eccentricity in their artistic construction,
endeavor to engraft upon the modern costume
that picturesque quaintness which is the
very life and soul OF artistic dressing.
THE PLATED PLUSH HOODS
worn by children are so pretty that older
wearers have long coveted them and the
leading French milliner in London has
brought them out in garnet ivy green,
scabiOus purple, bronze and dark blue, to
match travelling suits. They are especially
chic and becoming, and as they are without
frames or wires, and can be folded like gen
tlemans travelling cap, they are great con-
venience. A model is shot chestnut and
crimson plush, with large box plaits rising
to high point in the centre, showing the
rich shade of crimson lining, with standing
loops of ribbon to match, forming a full
puff on the top of the head. The mantle
worn with this is one of the superb pelisses
in brown plush, rich as the best sealSkin.
-. II,
fronts. which open over aclose-itting under
dress of gold and brown matelasse brOcade,
which shows like a gorgeous facing. A sec
ond hood has crown OF plush of mordore-
brown, that is, dead gold and brown, with
soft front of seal brown plush and three
u L