New-York tribune., 1885-09-14
THE FASHIONS.
RELATING MOSTLY TO TRIMMINGS.

the dncten re0tier0omy arstocratc and comfortable,
bat entailing upon the economicala problem difficult to
solve; for wide garments may be altered into narrow,
but into wide never, did not these industrial
artists also permitin fact advisea happy combination
Of materials and coors 1t is welcome fashion, wherein
both the adpose and the lean may rejoice DISCUSSES
both
These toilets are embellished with and marvel
ously beautiful passemeneries- The latest iDporta-
tions reveal trimmings fantastic design representing
pyramids, canopies flowers, butterflies and other more
complicated styles arranged with wooden beads called
the rosary trimming One OF these wide bands Of galoon
has wider fringe attached Of two shades Of olive wood
beads exqusitely carved. interminged with finely
carven black wood beads reOmIle with fringe OF
polished rosewood beads fuschs shaped wide band
Of fine chenille is bordered with black wooden droples
and cascade Of chenille in points finished with large oval
wood beads and droplets conehaped Another style of
fine chenille galloon is worked with cut Jet beads and
closely covered with dropets OF dark polished wood OF
black, shaded brown and rosewood very wide black
chenille band OF double points Is finished with large
dull jet dropets hal covered with red
and gold wire as fine cobweb. brilliant metallic
effect I'm wide bands OF tiny copper gold,
intense blue and green beads with wide fringe OF the
finished with large cut Jet bead black
chenille band at the top is studded with large cut jet
beads. Some superb wide lattice work bands Of fine
brown or black inlaid with minutely caryen oak
beads mingled with shaaugs OF carved polished brown
WoVu Ptctistly uoioooH"O
archings pendant foliage and trefoiL Another design
Is trefoil inla1 with light, wood-coor usreless silk
thread In raised knots Yet another STYLE seven inches
wide. shows arabesque beading and fret work with an
admxure OF gold with voutes OF fine brown chenille.
Another design shows the trefo In mosaic of copper
bronze and gold beads with star between each pair
with neraeIng liree OF gold aud tiny gold. bronze
and dark purple beads and fully knots OF g0dcolored
twist
FLORAL DESIGNS.
There are other styles forsakIng the classical and
artistic for beautiful floral designs slch lilies
in finest jet Others in small carved wood of ash maple.
imitation OF sandal wood branch Of the otos the four
OF the oalyx OF the darkest wood I'm finest chenille
the blossom OF sixteen twenty petals Of the yellow
maple beads. the centre of globular brown-shadei
polished wood bead the stamens OF finest brown beads.
the circular worked in long stitches OF dark chenille
meanderng vine OF silk and fine chenille forming the
two edges of this band. Narrow trimming bands are
edged each side with pca-sized rOseEood carved
polished beads Loss odd and costly the passe-
gaoons IN diamond points copper and gold
cut beads In grapevine designs and dropping pendants
OF square ct large beads There frnges copper
pIonib dull sea-green and steel beads lntermlxed In
points aud straight lines and gttering mosaic Of purple
dized green piob, metallic bue and amber tiny ent
crystal beads with little gold in flower garlanis closely
nterwovon Cut steel beads and copper are mingled In
other designs large Hat panses Of the steel outlined
ustre IN bands eight or inches wide and there
galloons OF line gold warp embroidered In stripes OF
mousse color cut beads and lead Other bands initiate
ca hnere shawls IN color and work in finest bead
hroldery.
FEATHER TRIMMINGS.
Tho now graceful aud airy feather trimmings are two
and three Inches wide bands Of black wnecolor two
shades OF recn OF olive. two blue IN dark shades
anl charming evening nts OF lghblue and white
Tho frnges inches deep Of ostrich in the share
Of tails n some shades, others In mingled coloFs. a
wine and white amber and white two olive tns or olive
aud chlncAa. In other fantastic styles the feathers
lle in reverse oyerlnM with small pumage OF fowls.
There are thick rich ruchcs OF green gold feathers stand
Ing ont n high relief from the sem Others Tor bail eos
in downy pink. white and blue ish rs talsiie
down Another exquisite style OF band Oi creamy ~lfe
resembles the sJftest and hnest fur Dark lustrols
feathers lie overlapping win Iher points IHse ats
IS, ,tr ~ 9f,est dark garnet aud sea green blended
irregular patches.
FOR WOOL GOODS.
For the fashionable wool costdmes there are mohair
trimmings ~ multiplicity OF designs. ono consists OF
three rows OF daisies precisely Ike hand work IN
crochet IN al c0lors 70 match the fabric. There are
besides graceful fern shapes Mohalr gulpure
bnnds are covered with sken net work OF large flowers
These take on an OF tho new shades Large set pieces
,ecouany these bands for ornament There are others
I'm crDtn stye-the pattern in darker shade than the
ground Frequently this Is mixture Of wO0llen braid
snd nno silk soutache. There large gIure designs
Of Intricate patterns aud Others IN stripes OF antique
STYLES and figures Unique and artistic designs in black
wooen gulpure lace yard aud three quarters de
for 81 yard are used for apron fronts h0unces and
other black woollon dress trimmings and for coaks
there are wide massive bands with groundwork OF tuied
s ee %S large ar balls fScre are other
extremely vide bands Of chenille mixed with jet. Jet
drnret. and pendants. sOutache and lead beads In
shaue OF snndOwcrs, lilies tall gadlous spikes. trise
velour borders. and all mannero OF fantastic devices
er.. ara Ia al
Imitation Of gupuro lace. Ihere are IOur yard lengths
one yard deep Tor tho ounces which are az suitable Tor
sik and satin as for any fine wool fabric. There
other magnificent wide bands ana frnges as well as set
pieces Of silk cord tine chenille, cut le with orescents
81 healed passementeres made OF lead beads Of dark
rich coors like Roman mosaic and Ia every imaginable
graceful device.
BUTTONS.
large buttons covered with satin and velvet with
small frise designs also OF fiss wool yelours in
tended for heavy wraps Others smaller are In fine
carved lot irdescent dark pearl concave shape. cut
gold and red bronze silver with decoration in relief OF
bluebrd and bue and purple flowers gold ana copper or
silver All the tnts OF copper, shades OF bronze steel
,IouB iu omen work designs inlad, pi0a6 devices
mirror like steel and all the bead designs described
wrought I'm tho dress buttons in all shades and sizes
Fyou little buttons Of mirror steel silver blue steel
and glowing copper have decorations II relief OF an ir
ids.eent gold peacock on bmnch; flower In coored
STties or n head of some animal There are, besides
wooden buttons TO correspondence the trim nngs carved
with natural light oak. ash or other beads; copper de-
sens I'm relief OF flower brt, and other piOD,b sec
and copper gold buttons IN open work designs OF herres
an foliage exqutsttey wrought In nhgree; Jaranese
devices n gold bronze and pearl others with designs
i'm blue rose ana wire United gold
HEADGEAR.
Iaree-sized carved rosary beads are placed on the
cage OF bonnots and set In the ooee bands of gaoon
other STYLES Of narrow and wide gJOOns decorate
entrelv cover bonnets interviewer with the lead, jet
ana fine pearl smallest ize Bbbous longer
present a smooth surface but OF plush with 6oce
Stripes OF satn quito curly the heavy wool as
traehan which they resemble. Again there are some
handsome les Of striped satin and plush watered SILK
and velvet aud gilt embroidered. Among the new
millinery colors arc orleans blue OF bright shade,
Oriental red aspgne asparagus green, wRym chest
nut brown hootrOpe dark almost sombre blue called
sphyux and pansy violet Ihe wool bonnets paftaNe