The National Republican., 1885-11-17

IUtk III llb NOllIbb Nuu fOlnUCllCu 10 make
n wide detour around the domain OF some
obdurate autocr0t Thcalcalde Of Las Vegas
was gorgeously attired in sky-buc breeches,
Iuilled calico shirt, worn with "nGpsn flap
ping outside, gayly.striped zerape (blankcO
thrown over one shoulder, and cnormOusly-
brimmed sombreio, which appeared TO have
grown upon his head, as during all our stay
he made no attempt to remove 10.
Having been duly impressed by the
august signatures affixed TO our credentials,
we heard him issuing commands TO half
dozen ragged servants as TO the menu; and
this accomplished, he returned with the mis-
tress OF the manse, who had incontinently
1Own at our approach. The senora--a
gentle creature, whose weight must have
been near three hundred pounds-had
TO he half dragged In by the lord and master,
but once inside her shyness suddenly dis.
appeared, and, with laugh, she sat down
upon petato lstraw hat) and invited us to
do likewise. There being no chairs in the
casa-nothing but puncheon benches ranged
around the table-we cheerfully settled
ourselyCes beside her, though the apartment
was occupied conjointly by q most sociabe
colony Of dogs aud chickens, while couple
of lean pigs and several goats wandered In
and out at will. Drawing leathern case
from the bosom OF her gown, our engaging
hostess rendered us each a cigarette of her
own rolling; and while we endeavored
to perform manfully the smoking act
which politcness required, the lady--her
bhshfulness unfortunately vanished-pro-
ceeded to handle curiously every article of
our apparel, "seen and unseen.n Our
buttoned boots excited her special enthu-
slasm, and In the ccstacy of admiration she
would no doubt have requested them MS
souvenirs Of the visit had not her attention
been diverted by the gift Of a scarlet rib
bon.
PREPARING THE FEAST.
Meantime the servants were slurrylng
wildly to and fro under orders from the
alcade, while the increased odor of garlic
and loud spatting of tortillas thin cakes,
made Of crushed corn nodded between the
hands) announced that breakfast was ap-
proaching, and presently the lord Of
the manor, with sombrero still upon
his head, waved us grandly to his
hospitable board The sonora, being too
broad for the space between bench and
table, was forced to sit with her back TO
the festive spread; but candor compcls me
to confess that, barring her back hair, her
duties as hostess were most satisfactorily
Ito us) performed in that un-
usual position, because she INDUCED
In neither knife. fork, nor spoon, but
insisted upon helping us TO everything
within reach with her own tobacco-discol-
ored fingers. Possibly the bill of fare might
not have tempted epicures at home, but,
thanks to habit and the long ride, we were
enabled to do justice to the viands,
WONDERFUL MENU.
First, there was the inevitable caldo
(broth )--hot water favored with grease,
garlic, chill-pepper, land brassi spoons,
served in teacups; sopa, the invariable sec
ond course-rice, cooked in oil and seasoned
with chill; dish of fat meal boiled with
various seeds and vegetables; tortillas not
from the griddle--of course, without butter;
frejoles (red beans), stewed in grease and
eaten with cheese or curdled goats milk;
and strong black coffee, without milk or
sugar. Looking out upon miles of unculti-
waited country, where anything would grow
If planted, l asked the alcalde why his
neighbors made no gardens. "Quien sabe"
he replied, with a shrug of surprise, "Con
maiz y chill no fata nada?r-who wants
more than corn and chilli?
After the repast other villainous cigar
cites must per force be smoked, and the
shadows of afternoon were alarmingly
long before the hospitable dignitary could
be induced to order our donkeys and per-
init us to depart. His worthy spouse,
grateful for sundry little gifts stood side
ways in the wide door-being too expan-
sive to stand otherwise-and gave us many
parting injunctions to steiner mucho cui-
n sharp lookout for ''gentlemen of the
road % and amid many affectionate adios
we turned our faces toward the Cafre, that
loomed like sheeted ghost before us.
on THE PLAIN OF PERoTE.
Two hours later found us within the plain
Of Pcrote, which, level as an ocean, is
bounded by hills on every side. One one
hand towers the majestic peak OF Orizaba,
and on the other that celebrated mountain
of basaltic porphery which upholds the gi-
gantic 'cofre' (chest) of Aztec tradition;
while in the midst Of the plain rises the cone
of Tepiacualcn, and in the distance a series
of snow-topped mountains outline the
horizon. All these plains were once the
basins OF former lakes, now dry and arid,
and for miles not Il trace of human hablta-
tion is to be seen. just before entering the
village of Perote the road runs through a
narrow cannon which from time immemorial
has been SO robber-infested that 1t is now
like graveyard, lined with hundreds of
black crosses, the murdered having been
buried where they fell.
All the houses of the town present to the
street blank wall of stone or adobe, with
no windows at all, but frequent loop-holes
for guns. Each casa has only one entrance
wide portal which is always carefully
closed, barred, and guarded-leading to the
inner court, around which the rooms are
builded. This style Of architecture proves
that each mans house must indeed be his
castle, and inclines the stranger to get
within one as soon as possible. Not many
years ago this village was citadel of vaga-
bondism, the headquarters Of all manner of
yillainy, in which 1t was unsafe for decent
people to stir out Of doors even at midday.
Even now, in these more peaceful days, the
streets ut dark are rs deserted as those Of
Pompeii, and the population are barred
within their cheerless dwellings-eXcept
the ragged ladrones (thieves), who skuik
about beneath the shadows Of huge SOM
breros, each with pistols, dagger, or mechate
tucked conveniently under his blanket,
watching for plunder.
THE CASTLE OF SAN CARLOS.
A few rods north of the town stands the
famous castle Of San Carlos, which is to
Mexico what the "Towern has been to Engj
land. The huge, square fort, with moat
and glacis, was built In the best style Of
last century Notifications, but would be Of
little use In modern warfare. IL was orig
inally designed as depository of silver
when, In consequence Of Spanish wars with
maritime nations, 1t became imprudent to
send 1t forward to the coast, which was
continually ravaged by buccaneers, During
the twelve years OF Mexico's revolutionary
struggle, beginning In 1910, this storehouse
Of PerOte was crowded with treasure. At
one time the accumulation Of specie within
II amounted to more than $4,000, 900, and
weighed over $4,000 tons.
In this castle many Of the unlucky gen
erals have been incarcerated, whom revolu-
tions and countor-revoutions have turned
upon their backs, and from its gloomy
portals not few political offenders have
gone forth to execution. From this place
In 1928 Santa Anna issued his pronuncia-
mento against Padraza, and here lie was
imprisoned by Rincon, seventeen years later,
after his capture at Xico. lie was In con-
finement in this castle when banished from
the country by decree of the Mexican con-
gress, and to 1t he soon after returned in
triumph when recalled to assume supreme
control.
Within these famous walls the deposed