Lexington weekly intelligencer. (Lexington, Mo.) 1871-1887, 1885-11-28
GRAPE CULTURE.
BY CHARLES TEUBNER.

By CHARLES TEU BNER.
The grape is one Of the most deli
cious, healthful and productive of
fruits. 1t has been grown to yield
over 500 bushels per acre. Although it
grows easily, yet the vine requires
more attention and labor than most
other fruits in order to grow it to per-
fection, hence it is not 80 largely plant
ed for family use as it deserves to be.
LOCATION.
The location should be elevated, if
possible, and open, so as to be accessl-
BILE to plenty of sunshine and air.
Eastern and southern exposures, or
slopes, are to be preferred, aud when
on level the soil should be we'll drain
ed.
The grape will thrive in any moder-
ately rich, dry, porous soil, such con-
tanning large percentage of sand be-
ing especially favorable. Gravelly or
stony soil, if underlaid with porous
sub-soil is also suitable. Heavy or
wet soil should be avoided, as grapes
cannot endure "wet feet"
PLANTING.
The soil should be thoroughly pre-
pared by deep blowing and sub soiling
or spading. The holes should be dug
with slant, ON which the roots are
spread out after being dipped into
water then covered with top soil, press.
ing it down moderately. The depth of
planting varies with size of the vine.
but one foot is considered enough i,,,.
even the largest, as very large vines
can be inclined accordingly, and the
lower roots spread out horizontally, for
the roots of the grape naturally lie near
the surface they require warm feet as
we'll as dry ones. Strong one year
vines are mostly used.
The proper distance apart fol
planting varies with soil and varieties
Slow growers or vines on
moderate soil, require no more
than 6 feet each way, but fol
strong growers, or on rich sol, ,6x8 feet
will be necessary. The vines should
be cut back to three eyes, or buds, and
in planting these are left above the
ground.
During the first year the soil should
be stirred frequently with cultivatol
and hoe and the ground kept free from
weeds. Cultivation during the sue
ceeding years is the same, with the
addition OF loosening the uncultivateC
strip of soil in the rows, every spring
with spading fork or pronged hoe
Cultivate shallow.
PRUNING.
This may be done at any time aftel
the leaves have fallen, until the latter
} part of March, November being the
best month for that purpose. The
surplus wood should be taken out al
once and burned when dry enough
T The canes should be freed from the
trellis. SO they can drop to the ground
where they will be partly protected
against severe cold.
The first years growth is cut back tC
} within one foot of the ground. Dur
ing the second year, two or three of the
uppermOst and strongest canes are
allowed to grow; the others are rub
bed off as fast as they appear. The
reason for this is that it concentrates
directs and confines the forces of the
vine t. a few channels, instead of be.
ing allowed to expend itself uselessly
on half dozen or more. The canes
should now be tied to stakes, or a
trellis, as they advance in growth. ant
, the tips pinched off when they attain ,
growth of five feet in order to force tn,
, flow OF sap into the latterals, or limbs
, These latterals should not be cut OF
rubbed off, as some do, but left t;
} grow at will, for it is on these that thu
most and best fruit is formed. OF tn,
second years growth the strongest
! cane is selected for bearing and Gu
3 back to or 5 feet and the latterals OF