Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1885-10-06
Jsaiiu kfnnebfr 3ournal.
Fall Fashions for the Ladies.

Extravaganza now runs into quantity.
have been lately assured by two Fifth
avenue tailors, one of whom is French,
that grace will depart this season with the
full skirts that will make total change
in the appearance of women. There IS
talent and energy sufficient,in the brain Of
the American women without capital, to
manage their toilets in readiness for the
emergency. The fast approaching skirt
is about four yards and halt around. 1t
hangs from the belt in pleats or gathers.
Son of the latest imported skirts are so
arranged that they are most entirely made
in tucks and box pleats: there are ten
rather narrow side pleats in front, and the
sides are in three wide side pleats. all
pressed very fiat and caught with tapes
underneath. The back is made very full
with gathers. and all around the skirt is
set into an excelently fitted yoke. The
welcome and most convenient polonaise
is revived Made very long and full and
is drawn back sufficiently to allow the
points of the drapery to fall at
the sides of the skirt. This cos
tune is made of the fashionable
wooden fabrics OF two styles. but same
shades, the skirt plain and the polonaise
or basque figured. and in this lies the
economy. as plain materials are always
easily matched. Another costume has the
new plain, round skirt, embroidered near
| ly halt way up with wooden braid and silk
sontasche in large floral designs of dark
er shade than the material, or, in contrast,
as dark blue on gray. red on dark blue :;
the latter two colors already appear fash
ionably combined in costume of blue
with red trimmings. The skirt OF the
above is pleated and has short draped
puff behind, the apron overskirt is draped
high on the lett side. The basque is quite
short, opening over vest that is covered
with braid work. The talent to be OBJ
served regarding the gored skirts is to
match the plain color and the material
and cover it with pleatings in front and at
the sides the basque and back drapery
are OF the figured, the latter hanging full
without draping. The back edge of the
skirt must have d narrow pleated ruffle
set on at the sides. These examples will
be sufficient until the next bulletin. Some
of the new skirts hang in kits worn
with long polonaise. The fancy
for braid still continues and wide
passementeries. The very latest surprise
consists of the novelty of wooden beads,
precisely like those worn by nuns, called
rosary beads" These vary in sizes from
a large bead to small grape, finely
carved, of polished rosewood, oak, satin
wood. the color of sandal wood-black
dull woodland are woven in braids OF
all widths. used on bonnets and dresses,
and for wrap trimmings. The designs,
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mings. and buttons OF this and other new
importations Just received, will be fully
described hereafter, together with the
latest arrivals OF the very elegant wool
laces that will be extremely fashionable
Very few of the absentees return before
October. Many of these and also business
agents are still abroad, and whatever ex-
quisite freight is brought over by the
steamers is still in the custom house. By
a special shlboleth of my own, have pen
etrated into the inner sanbtums of certain
of the wholesale houses. One of these, the
American manufacturer of the Cheney silk
fabrics, shows the new colors and styles bv
sample at present. also in the piece. For
full dress occasions is the satin faced bro
cades covered with patterns of geometrical
fashion, the roses of cathedral windows
and trefoils of altar screens. and arab
esques in rich cream, peach blossom, pale
blue, garnet.
The rricotrlne weave, introduced most
favorably last season, appears again in all
the fashionable shades. This is all silk
and an imitation of Jersey cloth and bears
the same wear. Rhademtr satins are un-
usually heavy and rich, and at all the
other superb colors, the new sapphire blue
ranks highest in this fabric. Satin datch-
esSe, for evening wear, is seen in all the
newest shades; one of these is beautiful
golden brown. The velvets are as rich
rs those brought from foreign looms, in
three shades OF myrtle green. three OF
rich bronze, exquisite sapphire blue and
green blue, tour shades of garnet, and
two of cardinal ruby. cream color and
white.-GEoRGIANA ii. S. HULL, IN Coca
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