The Portland daily press., 1885-08-19
FASHIONS.
What to Wear and How to Wear it.
[Harper's Bazar.1
AUTUMN DRESS GoODS


Though the summer is still in its glory.
merchants have already received their first
installments of autumn and winter dress
goods Wooden stuffs of plain color prom
Use to remain in favor for street and walk
ing costumes in preference to the silks, sat
ms, and yelvets that are reserved for house
toilettes. The novelty in these is the intro
duction of boucle effects-haying curled loops
of the fabric woven in stripes, palms, or
other figures as borders, or else covering the
entire surface of the cloth; in the latter case
the material resembles Astrakhan cloths,
but is much lighter and less shaggy Bou-
Gle jersey stutfs with soft loops covering
webbed surface are commended for basques
and jackets to be worn with skirts of plain
diagonal wool that are bordered with bands
Of the boucle stuff; these new rough-sur-
faced jersey goods are very warm looking,
and are so full and thick that they will be
becoming to slight figures, because they will
add to the apparent size. In many other
new fabrics boucle stripes are seen, for in
stance, the winter canvas stuffs have along
one selvedge two rows of large palm leaves
in boucle loops to serve as border there
are also bison serges, with wide diagonal
lines for part of the dress, to be worn over a
skirt of the same that has dashes of boucle
mohair all over it, giving think looking and
shaggy. fabric for the skirt of the Dress Cam
ePs-hair sergeS are shown in fine qualities.
SOFT yet rough on the surface, like the bison
cloths now. worn these come in dark plain
color, and in mixtures of dark color with
black, such as red with black and green or
blue with black, while brown, drab, and sage
c0l0rS are dashed with red or blue. These
fabrics come in double widths, forty-eight
inches wide, and are to be had in black as
well as in colors. Plomb, or lead color.
dark green, marine blue, and russell brown
are the colorS most largely represented, and
these stuffs will be used for the early au
tumn travelling dresses. These shaggy fab
rics will be used as a wide band at the foot
of plain skirt, or else the entire skirt may
be of the rough surfaced goods; this skirt
will be plainly finished without even a foot
pleating, so that nothing unnecessary NAV
be added to the weight. The long overskirt
may fall in pleats from the waist down, with
an open space on one side or both, or else it
may be plain in front, with merely pleats be-
hind; it is then caught up high and in care
less fashion on one side, or it may be drawn
up alike on both sides, and held by a velvet
loop or strap and buckle. The tendency is
toward straight back draperies that are made
sufficiently full and bouffant by the tour
nure beneath them. Both single and double
breasted basqueS will be worn again Vests
will be retained, but will be greatly diversi-
lhed, pelng Visible IN some cases only in the
lower part OF the corsage, while in others on
ly a short plastron at the top will be used in
side of the notched collars that are conied
from masculine garments.
Polonaises are to be revived, as they have
been long out of use, and all the changes
have been rung on basqueS and coats. The
soft camel's hair serges and diagonals will
be used for long and stately redingotes. to
be worn over shaggy cloth skirts. One of
the new wool stutfs has diagonal lines WOW
en- in double rows that are so wide and SO
applied in bias rows; this is the result of
the furore for braid trimmings that has pre-
vailed Tor two or three seasons but which it
is predicted will soon be OVer these heavy
diagonal cloths are to be used for redingotes.
basques, and jackets, with borders and large
buttons of fur as trimmings.
Soft repped silks, such as Bengalne and
Slclllenne, VIII be used for autumn dresses.
and in combination with velvet and plush for
winter. Veloutine is name given to the
SoItest Oh these new repped silks with rich
yet dull lustre, like that on velvet Both
plain and figured yelvets are shown for
dresses, while very large figures are seen ON
the cloaking velvets. Black and seal brown
are the colorS for velvet cloaks, with some of
the darkest plomb, or lead, shades. Ara
besques, scrolls and curved figures generally
are on these corded silks and velvets. Plush
Is also imported again in tartan plaids. in
stripes dotted with gilt or lead as if beaded.
and In the ribbed cross lines called ploughed
plush.
AUTUMN MILLINERY.
Felt, velvet and tinsel embroideries are the
leading features of the earliest autumn mil
linery while the novelty in all kinds of ma
terials for the milliner's use is the combina-
ton of wool with silk goods. Illustrations
of this are shown in ribbons with a stripe of
wool a stripe of plush and a satin or faille
stripe; or else open wool stripes like the an
CORA laces in cOlors, have a gilt thread through
them, and are between velvet stripesfin bon
not ribbons, while ''piece goods" for making
the bonnet have wool foundation-like cloth,
or they are 10 lace patterns with embroidery
in tinsel threads all over the surface. Wool
braids fourth of an inch wide are plated
in basket patterns with many gilt threads
forming cross bars, and this fabric is to be
used for the crown or the brim of the bonnet
in combination with cloth or velvet, or the
whole bonnet may be made of it. The bou-
Gle effects noted for dress goods are also to
be seen in the stripes and bars of the ribbons
for their trimming.
Sparkling tinsel is seen in all kinds of mil
linery fabrics, from tulle to the heaviest
plush or wool goods. These tinsel threads
are Of every eoloTed metal, copper, gold, lead
or silver, spun out to marvellous thinness
and wrapped over silk to make them dura-
BILE; they are then used for most elaborate
in ''all over" designs on ali
sorts of materials. Flower designs are most
seen, but palms, scrolls, rug designs, cash
mere patterns and the Greek, key borders are
also used, both on wide 'piece goods and on
the narrower ribbons and sashes. The use
Of gold for decoration will be less than it is
at present, while copper, lead and otherIbaser
metals will give less tawdry and more quiet
tone to the costly winter fabrics Beads of
all kinds will be used again, especially plomb
and Jet beads, and the especial novelty is the
of carved wooden beads or but
tons in dull brown and red woods strung all
over galloons and ribbons in the midst of
boucle silks and Woollens.