Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-11-01
FOR The LADIES.
SOME orrAsHroNs fAxcIEs.


gslloon applique in Muscovite style,
This galloon is very pretty, and IS nseo
as fancy directs. There are sometimes
three, four, or five rows OF this ulm-
ming on the lower part Of skirts Inc
tuniques are draped, and the small a'n-
agone waists have Breton piss'rons
made OF galloon goods, for this gsi-
loon forms part Of the material OF when
the suit is made. The trimming u
40 be seen in all widths and designs
Bands of eight and ten inches have
Fsynti,n or Byzantine figures, ara
bssoue designs. and all kinds Of effects
IN relief. including the fashionable
Astrakhsn trimming, which is used on
Main fabrics. The lsst-nsmed article
is among the most stylish of these
trimmings. Sometimes snits will have
small Jackets Of Astrakhan. There
are also materials in imitation OF
rich Hungarian embroidery, composed
of fat lscing and small dots IN
sou,ache work. These goods require
the closest inspection to detect ths'
thew are not embroidered. A deep
hand Of this same fabric is very snowy
on the lower part OF the skirt, with the
waist and sleeves trimmed to match.
Toilets of costly woollen, silk, or velvet
textures will have long fiat trimmings
such as panels and revers. These ex-
act. in reality, more skill than ordinary
draperies, for if there is fault in them
II is much more conspicuous in the one
arrangement than in the other. Worsted
overskirts or tuniqnes are at present
seldom, if ever, trimmed the soit folds
OF the goods are gracefully draped
on the figure in the way most be-
coming to the wearer, and the ends
of the goods are arranged by sKlliui
hands into scarfs. half belts, or ends.
The latter particularly will be seen on
many winter ball and evening toilets.
One Of the newest woollen suits made
in Paris is Of soft article with shaggy
surface. The color is dark blue, but
when the goods are examined closely the
ground is Of reddish tinge. The whole
suit is of this material. The skirt
forms wide, hollow, and very flatplaits.
There are over these plaits of the same
width, but about an inch shorter,
which are cut in deep scalloP, and
bordered with dropping ornaments in
the color Of the dress. The unique is
draped bias, and forms an apron gath
cred in front. The goods are arranged
in the back in graceful and irregular
folds, which terminate on the side in a
kind Of loose bow with ends to initiate
sash. The short jacket is cut round,
like a Spanish waist. The back and
two side pieces are long and form three
small rounded basQues trimmed with
dropping ornaments. The front Of the
Jacket also has this trimming. The
lower part of the sleeve is cut in small
scallops. The jacket opens IN front
over "guimpe,' gathered bias. The
collar is straight.
Pelerines have not lost favor. This
is owing to their being small and warm,
and to their not detracting from the
general effect Of toilet. They have,
however, one disadyantage-they do
not suit all figures. and are often too
long or too short, as a happy medium
is difficult to hit. The following new
model is without this drawback: The
back is pointed. Starting from the
point is broad band of jet galloon in
open work, which is taken up the sides
in bretelle style. This forms two grace
full lines that take of the effect of the
garments being too wide for Its length,
and give the back the proper bend into
the figure, as without this the pelerine
cannot be stylish. On the point
in the back are dropping jet
ornaments. The same trimming on the
shoulders falls gracefully over the
arms. All waists that are not joined
to polonase skirt are short, with a
point in front. and are rounded in the
back, where there are small basque
ends or loops. Waists adapted to very
slight figures have two rows of tiny
loops around the borders. The small
mantles that are so much worn at pre-
sent are very stylish made of India
caehemire, lined with satin merveil-
leux. They are taken well into the
figure and have piece of goods like a
pelerine drawn back over the garment
to form sleeves. The front of this
mantle may be trimmed, but the lower
border is always plain.
Small amazon cuirasses are cut up on
the hips and have point in front and a
position in the back. The sleeves are
tight-fitting and the collar is very high.
Sometimes the sleeves are slightly
pulled. and have deep, tight-htting
cuffs Of velvet or fancy embroidery on
worsted or silk fabrics. Round skirts
are becoming very common. They are,
however, pretty for young girls. Skirts
are again draped, and they usually have
panel either in the centre Of the skirt
or on one side.
Peculiar gowns for indoor wear are
called Carmelite" dresses. They are
Of brown woollen goods, open dOwr
the front over plastron apron of white
yelling. The yelling is gathered in thu
neck. Around the waist is brown
and white braided cording, with larg'
pompons on the ends. The large sailo
collar opens in shawl-shape in front
and the cuffs are very deep. Both col
lar and cuffs are Of white yelling.
Long outer garments, with straight
Fat fronts and gathered skirts, ar
trimmed in many ways. Even tn
gathers vary, As some are fine and forr
several rows, while others are wide.
model for redingote Of cleth of an
color may open in front over a plastror
which has the upper part plated cross
wise, and is pulled over the breas
On either side Of the plastron are tw
rows Of round velvet buttons. III
front Of the garment is closed on Il
lower part Of the waist and joined b
two pieces Of velvet cut in the shaI
Of oak leaves. These do dul
for metal clasps. A long pOck,
on the right side is trimme
with the same velvet leaf. The slice,
is straight and falls 80 below the elbow
where It forms 4 deep cloth cuff platte
crosswise like the plastron. A velv,
leaf is taken disgonally across this cut
The tailor back is plain, with only