The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1885-11-04
FASHION NOTES.
rAmerican Cultiyator.l

Sets of very deep Vandyke collars and
cuffs, made severally in different colored vel
vets, fastened with handsome cameo or 9TH
er clasps, are very pretty additions to cold
weather toilets. as worn in turn they give
quite a new look to the same dress.
If the body of your dress is of fancy wool
len goods, then plain velvet makes more
appropriate trimming.
Costumes of alpaca and mohair are popu-
lar An effective combination is mushroom
colored English alpaca and faille of the
same shade The faille skirt has narrow
plaiting of the same goods, which shows very
little, as it is covered with an alpaca unique.
The front of the unique starts from the
right side in gathered piece of goods, and
is taken over to the left, when it reaches to
near the lower part Of the skirt. On this tu-
nique are revers of velvet in a darker shade
of brown. These are wider above than be-
low. The back of the unique is draped
The Jacket is open down the front, and has a
single button in the neck. Velvet is only
placed on the collar of the jacket, the re-
mainder of the garment being simply stitched
around.
Astrachan will be the favorite trimming
this winter.
Aligator-skin hats are to be had in all the
new shapes.
The basque is still the bodice most favored
by dressmakers, but it must be made very
short and simple, with or without waist
coat at pleasure.
Some of the richest millinery stuffs are
used by dressmakers to form the narrow
vests, cuffs and high collars Of dresses of
various kinds of materials.
Soft sash belts, composed OF several folds
of Grape or surah, are worn across the front
of Molieres under cut-away basques, and are
fastened in the side seams.
Jerseys are fastened with tiny agraffs in
stead of buttons.
Laces embroidered with lead beads and
bands of cloth embroidered with gold threads
in patterns resembling lace are new trimming
novelties.
Fancy feathers encrusted with metallic
dust in all colOrs and made dreSsy by bead
aigretteS representing gold or silver wheat
and cookie are seen in endless variety.
Draperies falling straight down the back
are again in favor, particularly with redin-
gotes panel trimmings and large bows
Wooden dresses being in such favor, and
the fashion of wearing bonnets to match the
costume still obtaining, number OF wooden
fabrics have been manufactured especially
for millinery. There are wooden laces in the
piece embroidered with chenille, metal and
beads, cloth with double loops and even As
trachan cloth-all now used for bonnets.
Pointed bonnet brims are still to be worn
and the crowns are of all shapes, as the back
hair is now worn in many different ways
velvet or plush strings are added to render
the bonnets warmer and more comfortable
looking.
The newest beads are gold drops enclosed
in crystal and are used with jet beads with
excellent effect.
The new jackets are shorter in the back
and longer in the front sloping gradually to
a point
Quilted satin Innings and facings are much
used on the new long cloaks, but wadding is
not used below the hips.
The fronts of rough cloth jackets are either
double or single breasted, but in most cases
the right side laps on to the left at the top
and buttons diagonally.
Greek key patterns and graceful arabesques
are in the open passementeries that are made
of rosary beads set on velvet or plush.
Jet fringes are shown in more elaborate
designs than ever before.
1t is mistake that black has gone by-it
never will go out of fashion.
The peasant skirt still continues in favor
for simple toilets, house dresses and for
young girls.
Tailor-made dresses continue plain and Sc
yere The addition of so much trimming
robs them Of their first intent and prevents
their holding distinctive place in the modes.
Gray is an accepted color in all materials:
Crabs, oysters, grasshoppers, beetles and
spiders appear In brooches.
A very sensible and useful patent recently
taken out is for umbrellas, with wooden
stripe coming where tie bend or folds of the
silk comes, thus preventing the breaking of
the material.
Sashes are fastened on the right side with
large buckles.
Quilted silk trimmings are used on some of
the autumn costumes
Girls dresses are made with hemmed skirts.
Side plaits are arranged in rows of two or
three, having spaces between the clusters.
The short drapery is plated at the back. The
bodices may be plain or in blouse form, and
open over perpendicularly plated vests,
which, with the high collar and cuffs may be
made of contrasting material
The new Tam O'Shanters are now made of
one colored material, matching the costume,
with straps of two-inch-wide velvet, of a
different or deeper hue, brought from under
meath the full crown, carried up to the cen
tire Of it, ending where the wooden tuft usu-
ally is in cluster of loops.
Every imaginable shade of green is to be
worn.
Waterproofs of the new Scotch and Irish
woolens have been put upon the market in
every style Of the season. The waterproof
ing Of the cloths has been successfully done
and the unseemly gossamers must go. Silk
waterproofs have been made which add al
most nothing in weight, and are to be found
in every fashionable color and style.