Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-07-10

eN-li1a AAAN eAlt-l lafiao "a MIS- AA+i-
uaee Wheeler, Of The associated artists"
ID New York. aided by the willingness 10
cooperate with her OF enc or more Ameri-
can silk manufacturing firms. These
nave now been engaged for years in work
ING out Mrs. Wheeler's designs with q
conscientious desire To elevate the stand
ara OF American manufacture and pro-
4ace Iapg3cs more perfect in texture,
uIler Ia design. and more artistic in color
ing Than can be found elsewhere. In
olnei words, 10 produce fabrics based on
esse ntiai ART principles, instead Of the
mere WITNESSES 81 fashion. The besuty OF
tnese genuine American products has
p1en better recognized by experienced visi-
tois fom abroad tban by our wealth and
-ashlQn az home. MIR. and Mrs. Felix
Ad7eleles, hrs. Lanetry. Miss Helen
Terry. and numerous others saw CT once
Iue important addition offered 10 dress
Is Wei as 20 art and decorative re-
sources, and m8de purchases of stuhs
lot dresses rs well as Of embroideries for
pnt1erCs and drapeTigs. Mr. Coruwallls
"a esi bought the material for gown for
ms wife, and orders have been received
from London for stufis for artistic COS
TUNES which here as Vet have been APP
pileG 20 house decorative and furnishing
purposes only. A small collection OF
these and Of the artists embrOj&eries were
seen al The loan exhibition Of the Society
OF Decorative Art some years OF more ago;
but tne Newpart display VIII be much
more complete, fine rooms having been
secured at the Casino tor the purpose. and
IN addition, ten original tapestries, sew
eral Of them American IN subjects,
all OF them designed by American
artists and worked out by the sssO-
clated artists embroiderers, viii add q
unique and purely artistic interest to the
exhibition. The designs of these are
principally by Miss Dora Wheeler and
Miss kOsina Emmett. The detail Is a
marvel OF color shading and beautiful
effects. The opportunity for the study Of
color in the splendid robe and glowing
environment Of the Peacock Girl" in
the strong. suggestive tints OF 1.-The Zuni
Maiden in the softer and more poetic
figure Of "Minnehaha" and Hag thorne's
"Hllda' viii not be lost upon expert
enced, If conventional, women WHO can
appreciate picture" effects in costume
AID know the value OF new ana sugges-
tive combinations as well as Worth him.
self.
COATMEN CEAfENT TOILETS,
a curious feature Of the colleges, and
especially of the fashionable boarding
school graduation exercises, has been the
rev 0lution in exercises and toilets on the
part of the girls, aided and abetted Of
course by their precept0rs and teachers.
Heretofore the object on all public oc-
caslOns has been to make the Young girl
look ike the typical lamb.led-t0-the-
slaughter, or like youth crowned with in
nOcence and the Ignorance in regard to
al worldly matters which has been con-
sidered essential 10 purity. As for plays
and acting and actresses, IL is not neces-
sary 70 say in what esteem they have
been held by well-regulated nstitu-
tions presided over by theolOgians
who had failed in their mission
as preachers and had Reverend
Doctors on their board Of trustees,
Y ct such schools have this year discarded
given plays, dramatic scenes. readings,
musical exercises, and the like instead,
the performers selected from among the
pupils, not exclusively from the gradu-
ating class. and including the smallest
grl who possessed special talent. In
place OF the white g0Wn-a cross between
the confirmation and wedding dress-in
which the row of ''sweet girl graduates"
have ALWAYS appeared, they have worn
character dresses, historic costumes,
aesthetic toilets, OF modern evening dress
whatever they preferred or considered
most appropriate for the occasion.
This action OF the schools. OF al least of
some OF them, and generally Of the most
conventional type, is due doubtless 20 the
demand for training ia dramatic reading
and elocuti0n on the part Of
parents. and partly to the WEAKNESS Of
the old cut-and-dTied exercises. Educated
American girls are natural actresses,
natural readers. natural writers. natural
painters up 10 a certain point. That is,
they have a certain gift Of expression; but
they rarely 90 beyond this. rarely become
artists because that needs time and hard
work in addition % great natural gifts
u hich they are not willing 70 put into a
pursuit.
ACCESSORIES.
The square braces which give a Breton
effect b. the dress is one Of the newest
designs or reyivals in trimming. and is
particularly good in the formation Of
for young girls aud children.
The straight skirts facilitate the use OF
the tunic OF overdress, and the shoulder
braces, with their pretty cluster OF loops
upon the top OF the sleeve, form both
apron and oYerdress, and can easily be
made as dressy as the one and as useful
as the other.
Hosiery and gloves are ia correspond
ing shades thiS'seasOn and are noticeable
for their quieti tones, their soft tints. aud
perfect d. and finish All tue new black
hose have white feet, or rather soles. the
white part not being allowed 10 SHOW with
low cut slippers.
The SNOWY vulgar paras0ls have disap-
peared. Tinted silk and black silk, both
covered with lace. are the faNOrltes. with
cream pongee embroidered and lined with
a delicate color. The imitation Of p0ugee
in cheap 25-cent material has destroyed
il FOR dresses. It is now used only Tor
lining for parasOls and as a basis for deco
ratfve embroidery.
Some beautiful toilets have been made
lately, in which gold and other beaded
play a conspicuous part. The
beading IS all done by hand, and consists
81 the smallest beads, like seeds, set close
in solid figures, forming borders panels.
vests, collars. cuffs, and entire fronts Of
dresses. Pale pink and peunia shades,
glass-blue, amber, cream, and ruby colors
are used. Find gold-beaded embroidery
is used upon gray and mousse-g green; steel
l. combined VITA the new bead work
Artificial flowers wers very pretty
when they first made their appearance
this season, many of them being arranged
m natural ''posy" bouquets that Is, the
flowers tied naturally together, but the
t'nseled elects are now demanded by the
popular voice, and in every manufactur-
ing millinery establishment girls are en-
ployed no taking these dsintily-arrauged
semblances Of natural flowers sticking