Wichita daily eagle. [volume] (Wichita, Kan.) 1884-1886, 1885-09-10
LADIES' TAILORS.
WORRIES RIVALS IN NEW YORK AND
THEIR CUSTOMERS.
The Life OF . Ladies' Tailor Not Bed of
ROses-Bailding Loveliness to
Order-Fastidiousn
Concerning Fit
NeH York Herald

1
Concerning Fit
New York Herald
} Some twenty years ago there was but one
exclusively Indies tailoring establishment
In this city The lady manager discoatin
ued her business about eight years ago
Since that time the number Of ladies' tailor.
ing establishment has increased every year,
and at present there are some of them In
this city which have q great deal Of custom.
Some Of these ladies' tailors arc not only
skilled tailors, but real artists The dresses,
habits. and everything is left to male hands
except the fitting on, for which several skill
full women ara engaged.
my life is anything but bed Of roses,
sail one Of these ladies' tailors, one day re-
{ Gently. "What l have to endure from SONS
women is simply incredible, when it is re-
memberei they call themselves ladies A
woman sailed in one day and gave an order,
saying: 4 don't like your taste. l want SC
AMI So Madam replied, you can hare
what you want, but am quite sure if had
/ your taste shouldn't have any customsrs'
She didn't mind that sarcasm Probably
she diin't understand il"
10 what cause do you attribute the
>
your line of bu>iness.'
an the first place, men are better work
men, and in the second place, their artistic
taste Is superior to that Of women Women's
taste in dress-making is confined to the ar
rangement Of bows, founces ribbons and
passementeries and a mis- fit can be easily
covered up in that way. OF course good
deal of patience is required in our business.
for ladies are fastidiouS But many Of my
customers have learned by experience that
an artistic tailor is tbs better Judge Of what
Is suitable, and leave everything 10 me but
the fitting on, aai for that work engage
several skillful women All my work is done
by men, OF whom employ about 100.
"You say ladies' arc fastidious. Have you
some experience Of their critical DISPOSE
tionl'
Sons don't like my style; yet they CONS
TO nc. Why don't they make their own
dresses If they know SO much about it, One
lady said: You make my cousins dresses,
and don't approve OF Them Neither do
l, madam, l answered. II your cousin
likes coIors mixed up l can't help it. If you
have a more cultivated eye than your cousin
congratulate YOU"
"How do you find American work com.
pares with European work among your Gus
tomers.'
They prefer the American work every
time. l frequently have brought to me
costumes constructed by Worth. Of Paris,
to alter, and l find on taking of an orna-
ment or some bow that it has been put on tc
conceal an ugly seam We seem to have
reached the perfection OF fitting in this
country. l find the wealthy people here |
have better judgment in tins matter OF |
clothing than the same class in Europ, pos |
sess, AMI l am inclined to think it is because |
the Americans leave it more to the discre-
ton OF the man who seeks to become an |
artist in his profession. But the ladies don't |
ride enough here, though l suppose they |
will learn TO appreciate that exercise in
time
A visit was recently paid TO an establish.
ment Whose proprietor might well be termed |
the Worth of America His parlors are
elegantly fitted up. The bulk of the busi-
ness done here consists of riding habits,
costumes, reception dresses, bridal trous-
seaus, and coat Imported goods are used
almost exclusively, bat the designs are
American
Il am not exclusively ladies' tailor" said
the proprietor. "Dut q dressmaker as well,
and employ ladies' TO do that part Of the
work. Ny customers seem to think that the
work done in America is equally as good, il
not superior to the work of Worth, Pingat,
or Felix. in Paris Having learned my
trade in Paris l am able to judge, and am
certain that the better, critical judgment OF
American ladies OF fashion has led to much
better workmanship in this country. Many
Of tho costumes worn by ladies Of wealth
and fashion in this city at receptions and
balls were made by ne"
"Do You find the ladies very critical about
rut and fit!' asked the reporter.
Yes, very. They are shrewd, too, and
more particular than gentlemen in ordering
'lothes II a gentleman's coat fits tight to
him he is in most cases satisfied. But in
iealins with ladies' We have to invoke our
,rt to construct on the most classic lines
5hape has often to be given to figures, and
nature to be concealed where it is defective
mi made to conform to the rules of art.
Some figures we have to make altogether.
TELL me what you understand by max
ne up"
Taking the reporter into side room, the
American Worth exhibited to the reporter
number Of fiat, round, oblong, and oddly
haped pads, some an inch in thickness
Each ono was numbered "Now, there Is
on iierable study required" sal the in
ormant, "over each of these shapes.
call them shapes though YOU may call
hem pads for have had to
tudy the varying changes in the fig
Tres Of my patrons and modify them &C
oriingly Look at this one'-a fat piece,
learly half an inch thick and cut in the
hape Of crescent-"well, that fits into the
houlde-s Of the dresses worn by one of the
ichest ladies in this interior Of the state,
Who comes to the city every month and
hen orders riding habits and costumes
rom me- That shape was once nearly
vice its present thickness, but as the lady
rows stouter l have to reduce the size OF ie,
nd in the case of those who grow thinner
have to increase the thickness" ,
DO you find, them that as ladies' grow {
lder they are less anxious to preserve their !
hape!'
IL ladies grow older, they generally
ecoms stouter and less fastidiouS. But
hose who remain scragsy are worse than a
roman at s., which is about the worst age
0 fit in our business
a large portion OF the work done here is
iaie by mon. Would you believe it. some !
my customers can detect n woman's work ! {
moment Besides, woman's work on
10th is little satisfactory. The women can ,
ot do the pressing properly, and that is an |
ssential requisite in ladies work l have | c
lost of them are French and German. and ,
My the best Of tatlors are employed. ! tell I
ly customers exactly what l think Of their !