Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1885-01-23
PAPER PATTERNS.
HOW INVENTIVE GENIUS AIDS THE
DEVOTEES OF FASHION.
designing Tnitcrns aud FITTING Them to
the Nodcl--Nuitiug Both Great
and small -Suuding out tho
" Fashion Papers"
Now York Mn!l avid I:Nnrces. |

Oh We Olutu llHltSi VI pam Shil 10 uub /
bodiccs, fine in material but simply con |
we can but look in establishment to see /
the contrast II few years have brought
about Wondering how this great rcvo-
luton had taken place, u reporter called |
on a large fashion house TO make inquiries
Having stated his object he was con-
Quoted to Il suite of 10 ImS, each oCcu-
pied by number Of pretty girls ali busiy
engaged in cutting AID folding papers.
Nv hen tie dresses rCcamc more clabor-
ate pcop.e in moderate circumstances, lit
Tie able to at, ord drcssmakcrs bills, and
who yet wanted to keep up with the fash
IONS of the day, were at Il loss to know
what to do, all the inventive genius Of man
came 10 the rescue with paper patterns.
This idea gave rise to large business,
which was taken up 10y few companies,
generally in connection with the sale of
sewing machines, thus combining the adj
vertisng power needed for the two de.
partmcnts. Since then several houses
haze started independently, and one large
firm has even given up the machine de.
partmcnt, PAPER patterns having absorbed
all the capital, time, and attention of the
company.
Will you tell me how the patterns are
madc?'
"Whcn design ha, been submitted
designing styles is II profession by Itself
either made up from paper or shown from
Il French drawing or plate, and has been
/ approved, competent filters initiate the de
i'm in cheap muslin simply basting the
parts together yet being extremely care
tul to obtain perfect and wcll-ttting
model from which the pattern may be
copied. These models, TO insure Il sure
and stylish figure, are fitted to Il live
model, who WcalS the ghO>tly dress TIL
every plat is properly adjusted and the
garment made to compare exactly with
the original design. This cloth model is
then sent to the description. writer, vino
carefully rips it apart at the same time
marking each portion that it may
be exactly replaced from the dircc-
tions she writes 10 accompany each
pattern. Next comes the grader, who
takes the dis>cctcd garment and cuts an cN-
act pattern OF each part, putting in all the
notchcs and pcriorations rs marked upon
the clolh by the description. writer. The
latter by this time has sent the directions
to the printer, who is fast making ready
the envelopes TO hold the pattern when
completed.
Low are they made to fit different
pcrsons?"
The grader who has a system of meas
urcmcht known only 10 the profession,
prepares separate patterns OF uuHlVatcN ol
the garment properly enlarged or dlmin-
ishcd to suit both great and small. lie
sends these pasteboard patterns Of the diff
lerent sizes To- inc cutters VINO s''nu oc.
lore large tables WIN immense sheets Oh
tissue paper H. layers Oh my spread re
lore them he pattern Is 'he,l HIaiNcd
upon thrih ana cat WIN lar-c Hi'cat'' anu
then Is handed to E'rl'' VINO win 'taihcu
HngrrS rapidly roo ana place thcm III inc
envelopes now waiting
Much arr WorE Is require" III an cNI'p'
liShmcnt of This kind as the clo'h model,
after hitting has TO De Skctrhcd ~ ShiII
Jul artists, VINO are 70 orlh- ""i III INC
most graceful nance lHe curves IONS
ana various ho' e.I''' TcPreSGl'cu Ill 'I't
lashl"" 10 HI"N' ~ aC''P.aulc "To'F'u'
as possible to use IN the lIiUN'r'itd caia
rogue. upon ,,'' 'hNc'Uic,' anu o'i'cI "H
- verllsing MEDIUMS Most houses ISSUE d
fashion paper a L." SPICY ana C''chIn=
notes from th. outer WorIu nr'PlhG Iut
! CIrculall"h OF Whai without lhc'c "ouI"
pea pure advertising SlctV' ,
Are lhcHc patterns MUCH Sou4nl "itcf
over Il million patterns are SOFA yearly
by one houNe' agencies beng e''aohsheu
. all ovcr'the world, though 1t is conceded
the growing west ana from towns where
- the facilities for obtaining reliable style
0 are few and feeble \ love OF beng II Ii
e mode lies either latent or expressed IN 'h'
p heart of every woman, ana To- the i"NoIr'
4 ones living III the city walk Gown th'
= leading 'trccl or Avenue brings TO th'
4 mind OF both young ana o'd some new
c idea OF dress, with which the country Elr
can only he blessed by the advent OF
I city visitor Or 10y. the fashion Paper
i papers are eagerly wal cd for and graSIc,
ON their arrival Zach new style !
e Cunncd and criticised, and the want o
u the heart fllCd ana happiness made com
K plctc by the knowledge that few cent
h will bring the requisite pattern and iul
e directions for the making OF the carmen
g DIES rcd.
e How many new styles are brought on
u a month
d From fifteen t. sixty new styles ar
:, manufactured monthly and these some
II times form nucleus Tor 21O,pagc mac