Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-02-01

amount expended upon it. All that,
however, has been RELOCATED to the past
Mary Anderson finds robe OF crinkied
arabian" cotton, bought Of Liberty 4
1 Co, in London. for perhaps one shilling
| and siXpence English) per yard, better
suited TO her purpose, as Galatea. than
China crepe, at So or IS. Artists are
employed to reproduce historic forms,
and thew have revived for us upon the
stage the grace of the old Venetian, and
the noble simplicity of the English dress
/ OF the seventeenth century. Many Of
the ideas have been borrowed by
T ladies, and intelligent mOdistes, and moor
porated into evening and dinner costumes.
There is a general and very sensible ten
dency towards a dark, uuObtrusiVe, con-
FenConauZed dress for the street, which
aQapts l.self to wear and weather, and
attracts no attention; but the indoor dress
IS becoming more and more individual
lzed with the special needs and tastes OF
the weerer. We have almost gotten rid
OF Overskirts and drapery, except in con-
nectiOn with tulle, and some of the short
walking dresses, gathers, boN-plalts,
] clusters Of tucks; more and freer work
manship, ard less shipping and cutting
into insignificant parts-these are the Oh
YiOus tendencies; and successful workers
ia the department Of fine attire for gentle
women Will be found studying pictures
and natural combinations of color III Or
/ der TO satisfy the growing taste Of their
best customers. The court train, the re-
Yiy5l OF the dOuble-sleeYe, which was put
by Worth first into the Jane Shore
dresses OF "GeneNieVC" March, and is so
frequently employed by Ellen Terry.
who has adapted the double dress as
the basis Of nearly all her costumes.
The reintrOductiOn of the hip-girdle,
and the ribbOn-belt. tied in front. the ends
reaching low upon the middle Of the skirt,
nearly 10 its foOt-all these, together
with the pretty outside (chatelane) peck
cts suspended at the side, the pulled e.
bow sleeve, the berthe, the pelerinc cape,
the open heart-shaped bodice, and the soft
putings used instead of tiOunces, are
ira ments possessing historic and pic
turCd interest and significance. which
have been taken from their original en-
ViTOnment, and put to modern uses. If
any young lady wants pretty dress of
embroidered muslin. Of tinted cotton, on
linen batiste, she may alternate clusters
OF fine upright tucklng, with close inser-
ton put in lengthwise for the front OF the
skirt, gather the tracer. edge it with a
fine plating, make a belted bodice, and
place over it a broad, soft sash, tied in a
huge bow. with long ends behind. This
IS one, and a very pretty form Of the pop
ionable during the coming SIMMER.
SOME RECENT TOILETS.
This has not been a "dressy season,
partly because it has been a depressed"
seasonin business circles, partly because
the fluctuations of the weather have crea-
ted uncertainty in regard to needs and
possibilities. Still there is always plenty
OF beautiful ard costly dressing If one
only happens to be in the right place to
see it. and il is this which must stand to
represent fashion, not the PLAIN black or
patchy made-Oyer costumes which COnsJi-
.ute 50 large a proportion Of the actual
clothing worn by women. 4 noticeable
dinner dress was Of thick dull gold satin.
made with a very long full-plaited uain
and plain front, striped with wide fine
barbes of exquisite blade chantilly lace.
Between the barbes were series OF heart
shaped leaves OF embroidery executed in
chenille, shaded from pale gold to brown.
The sides OF the skirt We're fabOted with
lace fine as the barOes, carried back and
tied over the train. The bodice was
draped with lace and finished with
Medici collar, edged with amber beads.
Opaque larger ones forming a necklace
earrings and comb. To the necklace
suDerb cross of diamonds was attached.
The lady who wore this dress carried 4
transparent fan of black lace, which was
a dream of beauty, so fine and dainty
was it. The framework was pure ivory,
thin and enriched with flies, and delicate
LEAKAGE in Japanese gold. The dinner at
which this was worn, was Tor eight per-
sons, four Of whom were ladies. All the
toilets We're handsome. One was a short
dress of thick black velvet, with hello
trOpe satin front, and vest embroidered
with jet. Another was OF plush and satin
in two shades of blue, the basque Of plush
edged with pearls, and cream lace vest,
the plush drapcd at the sides over the
satin front. and edged with cream lace.
The fourth toilet was composed ~ Prin-
cess train Of smOke-cOlOred velvet, over a
pettiCOat OF pink satin and lace, and she
wore a cOrsage bouquet Of roses, half red
jacquimenOts, the other half pink Cattle
rine mermetsl.
At an afternoon reception a stylish
short dress was of wine cOlOred plush,
with trimming of gray fox fur, and vest
of gray satin outlined with fur. The nat
was of velvet matching the dress, and
was trimmed with gray feathers, and
pour Of cream ducbesse lace, IN winch
was a garnet, crOWn-shaped ornament.
The lady ore a set Of garnets as Orna-
ments. Another dress was Of rock gray sat
in marveilleuX with velvet trimming and
vest contrasting with sleeveless basque
of steel netting. This also formed the
crown of the bonnet, over full upright
crown OF satin, the velvet brim divided
into two pufitngs, bling further enriched
with steel embroidered lace, and butter
fly of transparent gauze with enamelled
wings.
An elegant dress worn at ball was of
ivory white silk plush, lined with satin
and trimmed with cream lace and ostrich
tips. The bodice was very open and cut
square. and the drapery was caught up
on one side with ropes of pearls, smaller
,Ir hO1fan 4 lQEnlV dgNCG
worn upon the same occasion was OF pale
ash-gray silk, trimmed with Opalescent
beaded embroidery and lovely lace.
A great many spangled tulle are seen,
and tulle sprinkled with pendant 0rna-
ments of chenille, and of course sleeve
less, the gloves reaching nearly to the
shoulders. Dancing dresses are almost
invariably short, and while TINS IS great
advantage to the wearer, decidedly APP
prOpriate if she is young, and adds
greatly to the enjoyment Of must
cal motion; it also demands much
care in the dressing of the feet. Black
shoes certainly do not look well with
short white satin and tulle dresses, yet
they are quite commonly seen, and there
is rarely the attention paid to the detail
which renders the costume harmonious,
even bv those who represent taste, and to
whom money is no object. remark
similar to this was made to lady very
richly, almost too daintily, attired for the
occasion at an evening reception which
occurred recently. Il used to be SO par
ticular about my shoes, gloves, hats, furs,
parasOls, and every detail Of my dress
down to my handkerchiefs." she re-
turned; 'but l have gotten brayely over
it: it requires so much time, not to speak
o. the money. The period when dress 10
Of supreme importance is very short; 1t
rarely survives one year Of married life.
Look at me! l was obliged to wear my
wedding dress tonight, because ] have
not cared to 90 to the expense OF new
evening toilet, and | hardly dare TO move,
because, well, under the satin and lace
are black shoes, and l have so often criti-
cised the wearing of black shoes by others
with white satin dresses
Few plain tulles are seen this season.
They are spotted, spangled, or sprayed
with silver or chenille dots or leaves, with
small pendant balls, or fruit. Those are
preferred that are dotted with white che
mile. or silver. In cOlOrs they must be
accompanied by a velvet bodice the color
of the chenille, and so striking costume
requires beauty and Jewels as fitting ac-
compartments.
A much admired dress consists of a
sapphire satin train, plain, but very bout
FAINT ut the top, where it is lifted and d.
vided into two huge bows by skilltul
manipulation. A straight bodice forms
sort Of jacket, and is edged with large