Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-04-18

Written for The Herald By "LeOns.n

= ~ I
Wrissen for the Herald By "Leons.n
Short dresses ara worn upon every and
ali occasions. and the street sweepersn
-as the train dre6sea ware called-have
moved into oblivion, for which most OF
women ought to Be duly thankful u
q quite enough to be tightenod up and
weighted down physically with from
three to six skirts, not to speak Of the
eight or ten pounds Of trimming, on them.
let alone adding an additional two or
three Yards Of trail. There are follies of
fashion which like follies Of habit, are
only seen as such when we are well rid
of them. Wide hoopskirts need doubt
less to be considered the 8 height land
width) of style. Now there is no woman
that would be brave enough toeven mas
auerade in them. The Bustle, in more
or less of size, is likely to be retained in
definitely, since it has survived through
the wreck of dozens of fashions changes
and caprices.
But as to walking dresses and short
skirts, they are the gowns par excellence.
The short dress is made to resemble q
full round skirt, but is invariably mount
ed on false skirt or lining which meas
ures only two and quarter or at most
two and a third yards in breadth. The
outside of the lower skirt is made in q
separate piece from the foundation skirt.
and is attached to it at the height needed
to conceal it's top under the drapery.
One of the favorite ways of adding this
is to have q square panel front made of q
single width, trimmed squarely on three
| sides with galloon if the skirt is of silk,
~ Il -
is added another panel on each side
which has row of trimming at the foot
and up one side. For thin surahs and
silks, q lining of crinoline lawn is used
to keep these panels in place, and the
front breadth laps slightly over the sides.
An apron droops low on these or else
is drawn in many folds across above it,
with its lower edge turned under and
sewed to the skirt. The back drapery
may be Of two single breadths, but is
oftener as full as three breadths gathered
to very narrow space at the belt, lined
throughout, deeply hemmed at the foot,
and inter lined at this hem it is sewed
in at the sides, and is there tackled across
ION tapes) and at the foot to form three
large soft flutes or organ pipe pleats.
There are other straight backs made
with the double box pleats, used during
the winter, and still others just hang in
straight gathered fullness.
FAN OVER SKIRTS.
Fan over-skirts pleated to the belt at
top, dropping thence in pleats that are
tucked at top and drawn open lower
down, TO be carried back and upward on
the sides, are evidently the favorite for
summer silks ana light woolens. They
are made in varied lengths, and their
back drapery is like that described in the
paragraph above.
Black silks are made with the fan apron
just described, and plain side panels,
trimmed viii rows of beaded galloon or
else with two or three deep fiounces on
each side. These fiounces may be pleat-
ed, but for soft silks they are now scol-
loped and gathered.
To brighten upa black silk for summer
pleated vest is now used of dull pale
blue, pearl gray, rose-color or striped
white and black satin surah. This vest
is OF fine knife-pleating its whole length.
Sometimes watered silk, in the colors
mentioned, is preferred to satin. Water
ed vests are made quite plain on the
waist lining, while the dress material is
turned back from the front in reverse.
and faced with MORE.
In still other silks the Spanish jacket
front is used, with jet drop trimming on
the edge, opening over plain front like
vest, that may have two rows of gal
loon passing down it plainly.
Another fashion for soft surahs and
other summer silks is to cut off the ma
terial from the lining near the top of the
darts across the entire front, and fill the
space above with gathered surah or silk.
NOTES.
For summer wear light fabrics will be
made with corsages pleated on the should
ers, crossed in front and belted at the
waist, the sash or belt having long ends.
Linen collars with turn over fronts in
English style are seen again.
Colored collars and cuffs are coming
in again for mourning.
Colored velvet basques profusely trim
med with white or cream lace, are to be
worn with silk or lace skirts the coming
season.
Gloves for everyday wear are compar-
atively short. Fans with stitched backs
are most worn.
A glove intended for evening wear
reaches to the wrist and has a long lace
sleeve the color of the glove, extending
nearly to the shoulder.
Printed muslin IS, so long discarded,
are coming into fashion again. The
samples, are extremely pretty the tex.
ture is close and soft like null, and the
coloring is beautiful.