Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-07-03

SOtto0 DfeSneS-A the
Modern Corset - Pussy Women - A
Study in Color and EGeet-fashion in
Underwear.
NEW YORK, July I'd.
From Our Own Correspondent.
There is a certain excitement and fascination
N summer dress which grows perhaps out of
Ms lghtness and color, and which IL Is hard to
resist. 1t may also be due to the more subtle
diffusion of the charming personality of the
wearsr through her gentle and airy garments.
Whateve the reason women feel its influence
and revel in the possession of dainty summer
fabrics even when age will longer permit
she wearing of them in their own proper per-
sons.
This summer the charm Is strong and widely
selt, for the diversity in summer fabrics
never greater or the beauty and delicacy OF tint
And coloring more distinctly marked. The
mission OF cOlor-its true Use and place in our
Uves-iS a. yet very little understood and those
persons make great mistake who suppose that
the practical business of live ~ to get rid OF ii
and to reduce dress any part of our environ
ment to funeral black or neutral gray. Color
Is art. Ruskin says. which means that IL is ex-
preston and normal expression should be joy
tul or at least cheerful, not sad. We use dark
neutral shades for the street with propriety
because street dress. particularly city street
dress. should be quiet. easily adjusted, and
tnconSpicuous: but in the country where one
becomes u part of the bright summer life. the
rule may be relaxed and striped cambEirs.
cream s:tines and tinted muslins will not seem
out OF place.
Nothin. prettier. indeed. can be conceived
than the cream white toilets iaShioBably worn
ny young women this season. in a variety of
iaorics and for diversity OF purposes. from the
white cloth braided or embroidered with pale
gold TIC the silk gauZe plated over satin. Nor
has the cost of the fabric much to- do with the
effect. The soft cashmere finished flannel is
effective on the tennis ground as the tailor's
cloth, and the Saline as satin. Cream-coIored
eatlue Is without doubt very lovely fabric.
Embroidered upon itself In delicate tints of
white and buff or white and ecru ior trimming,
al.1 hx-N hat and al
any one might be forgiven for losing their heart
TO such a costume. This being :, "cream sea-
son, SO to speak. ii Is likely to be prolific of re-
suits that will display themselves in the in-
creased number Of weddings next winter.
NOVELTIES IN SUMMER FABRICS.
IT has been remarked in previous letters that
the novelties in summer styles were in wool
rather than in cotton silk; that it was not a
'.cotton" season. the soft. thin wooden materials
such as nuns yelling, lace-woven wool grena-
dimes and chaies. the canvas cloths, and pretty
Bengalne all sharing in this modest supreEn-
acy. This prestige accorded To- wool continues,
but the honors are now divided with daintily
embroidered eOttOnS, and luxurious has
summer life become at cottages by the sea and
At the country houses of our famous magnaIes
that silver and gold brocades, rich satins,
Jewels and lace are as much needed during
July and August as during the height III the
SESSION In town. There is a difference however.
These robes of state are reserved ior very great
Oecasions-the visit of a distinguished person
sonage, a sum ptuOus dinner. or something
equivalent For more ordinary events deli
cocy of tint or color goes far To compensate for
absence of Costumes in the material. and
United Saline or muslin becomes the best
thing better than Others at double the price.
1t Is not to be supposed. however that WOODEN
dresses are always simple or cotton dresses al
ways cheap. An ordinary silk dress may be
purchased at one-third the price OF extra
ordinary cotton or wooden one. and all terms
are interchangeable in the vocabulary of high
fashion.
THAT Is pretty little DRESS" said lady to
weitknown importing modiste the other day,
Indicating cotton trimmed with embroidery
Eighty dollars, was the reply
send 1t to me, returned the queriest. 1t was
~oniy COTTON, but II was specialized in color.
ngure and finish. There was probably not
another of 1t in New York city, and il was
worth to the purchaser, at least she thought so,
SOS. ''' @'"ee' It anu . SUI O." '''A at
But summer surahs are not to be despised.
In gray or electric blue. with soft, lace-trimmed
almost universally becoming. But they are not
novel, and being undeniabiy lady-like and not
expensive, TO be seen upon every cnrner
while new hgures-which are comb inations OF
tapestry stitches, lace stitches and embroidery
stitches. SO skilfully combined as to produce
artistic effects without the aid of color. or at
least Of variety or contrast in color-are recog-
nizsd Instantly by experienced eyes as the
''iaSt new thing and one of those that are not
t1rned out by the gross. -. l.1
u THE QUAINT EFFECTS OF THE sEAso.vs il'9
are produced by the straight skirts, the largo
hats, and the big baby sashes which 1oor 20
well on tall, slender girl out of place on the
short stout girl at her side. The latter was at
her best In q kilt and Jersey" with soft siIken
folds laid close over the hips and only knotted
AZ the back or on the side. The picturesque ef
ingiy bright coIorN,hs nasturtiam red the cur
rant color In connection with forest green or
dark blue, and the gOld without a touch of
which In pale shade or tan no costume seems
complete. The more quiet effects are produced
by the twO-tOned sty1e-that is two shades of
with only the relief of the flowers or aigrette i'm
the hat or bonnet, and the gloves which are
always in some delicate shade of ecru or tam
The most popular combination iust now il
solid basque of the darker shade, with Light
0raperied skirt. Stockingette il the favorite
material with WOODEN skirts, and red. brown
or blue, with small metal buttons. is more worn
than any other color. The brown il usually
put with Irvine color, the red with pink or q
lighter shade of red and the blue with a fighter
shade of blue OF with cream white. Skis diff.
ferng rom the bodces have become very gem
eral Cream or lace black skirts covered with
from five to nine founces are worn with beaded
cuirass basques pointed back and 'front.': bat
short and often cut in two points at the back so
that the bouffani effect Of the skirt comes be-
tween and reaches nearly to the waist line. The
sleeves are distinct and of beaded lace to or
just over the elbow Another method EN-
ployed Is 10 arrange q Spanish Jacket over a
Iull skirt Of silk muslin or striped tissue, the
sleeves being full, straight and slightly gath
cred into u deep cuff Of thin high colOred silk
covered with lace.
The yak laces are having a great run-too
great TO last, which IL pity for in ne qualities
and patterns they make lovely trimmings for
fine wools and the canvas materials. and they
by com bining Ii with terra Gotta red or brown
SILK and covering the silk with iace-as vest
deep collar front OF skirt, or side panel The
oimcuity 10 that tn some people lace is lace and
one kind a. good a. another, or better If IL is
cheaper and more snowy. That wooden lace Ia
not appropriate on silk or cotton upon wool
they cannot understand. and they misuse and
oepraSe until the best lose their attracti yeness
and are ground into dust. The Oriental laces
the earned laces upon net, have suffered this
deterioration until no lady will touch them
w hole frontS OF such lace in coarse, tawCry pat
terns may be seen any day upon the street or
IN the carr, placed over the fiimsiest cneanest
materials, and aitordin2 the crudest contrast of
whits-wash white with dingy brown, olive or
FCSSINESS.
There IL one characteristic Of the ordinary
woman which breaks out In her dress as we'll
a. In other ways which the trained and exper-
fenced woman, especially the woman of educa-
ton and refinement, has gotten rid of-and
that Is, fuSsiness. In daily life IL expe nds
Itself In a vast amount of talking and unneces-
sary preparation and Worry over every little
cnangs, event. or circumstance that is I'M
usual; Ia asking II dozen question where one
would oot In getting ready and exciting the
entire household In regard to a trip of an hun
ored miles as Il IL were a journey around the
world, ia making the most common aud COM
mon place acts OF every day existence the in
creasing cause OF wonder, alarm, SURPRISED
comments and startling calculations.
In dress. business exhibits itself In Hyine
ends, in bits stuck on without meaning: in de-
signs cut up into small pieces; in Ornamental
zion that la, relation N no,