The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1885-03-18

aDck gain to most palates by having the
dressing thus favored.
One CT the wisest precautions to take when
YOU are taking is to have the oven perfectly
clean, and yet 1t is one that is often neglec
ted, and many an otherwise fsultless dish
las been spoiled by the sitting of ashes from
theupper CRATE in the oven.
Spring Wraps.
[Harper's Bazar.l
Dressy mantles for the spring are email in
| shape. apd are more often colOred than black.
| For the last cool days they are made of frise
velvet, Sicilienne, or figured camePs hair;
while for summer weathesr they are beaded
| grenadine. yelvethgured grenadine, or OF
lace. They are now lined with a glacs silk
instead of surah, and this is in chsngesble
coloTs, checks. or fine strips. The trim hings
are beaded passementeries and gathered frills
/ of lace, which may be the French imitation
thread lace. or else the new wool lace which
/ is called indiscTiminately yak or Angora;
chenille friDges again uesd, with drops of
| jet among their headings or else with tinsel
con bined IN the chenille strands; g4lloons
with beads and with tlnsel, trim the cSlored
maDtles In shbpe these garments are quite
short behind, reaching only short distance
| below the waist line, and fashioned by three
seams, giving two forms for the mid die of
the back that fit almost as closely as those of
| dress, The sides are shoulder pieces all in
| one, and may form small sleeve, or else
they merely lap forward on the the arm.
| The fronts may be very long, or only ex-
tended halfway to the knees. A ribbon at
tached to the back seam inside ties around
the waist, and there are other bands of elias
tic ribbon to hold the sides in place. to
adjust the fullness on the tournure. These
garments are usually very high in the neck,
and are trimmed there with full
frill of lace. All laces are now gath
cred instead of heing pleated. and a single
low three inches wide, set Just under the
edge OF the garment, is considered sufficient
| trimming for plain Inantles; this frill ex-
tends up each side of the front and passes
around the neck; if there must be more
elaborate trimming the edge OF the garment
| is cut in points and finished with jetted
pendants that fall on the lace, or else there
is jetted network, or psssementerie OF jet
plaques, stars, leaves or flowers, with droop-
ing fringe set on above the gathered edge of
the lace; there may also be two frills OF lace
one narrower than the other, and both
sewed under the jet trimming. Wide satin
ribbon bows or sash loops and ends are added
on the tournure of some msntles. The cape
| basQues form erly worn are shown again.
with the basque plain oyer the back and
sides, while the arms pass ont beneath the
round cape.
SHOULDER cAPEs.
For young ladies are new shoulder cspes,
|
side pieces which cover the arms ara sepa-
rated from the fronts and made to LAP over
them like fichu in a very graceful way.
| These are made of ottoman silk, with beaded
ell broidery upon them and chenille fringe.
Brown and blue changeable frise velvet man
ties, combined with brown Sicilienne and
tinsel passementerie, are very dressy. The
woollen reps with frise figures are made up
in gray, ecru, and brown nantes trimmed
with wool lace of color to match. Black
grenadine with jetted stripes or flowers is
effective over lining of mahogany red silk.
For elderly ladies are black India cancels.
hair wraps with outlined figures that have
the appearance Of being woven OF feathers.
CLOTH JACKETS.
The cloth jackets come In the shapes al
ready noted, with fitted back quite short on
the tonrnure, and loose fronts that are no
longer than the back. Sometimes the French
back formed ef only two pieces is used, while
other jackets have the short English side
bodies. and there is usually seam or dart
taken from the armhole down the loose
font Smooth cloths merely finished by
two rows of stitching make stylish jackets in
dark brown, ecru, or beige colors; others are
navy blue serge, blue-black Cheyiot, or in
very wide diagonal rough-surfaced cloths. A
standing collar; a vest outlined with braid;
or one with military cross-roWs OF braid, and
side pockets with flaps are on these jackets.
The rough Cheviot jackets in light shades
| are to be worn with dresses OF any color, and
there are some smooth fine cloths in the
light shades trimmed with darker braids
Most of these jackets are lined with silk,
and in all cases the sleeves have silk lining
to make them easy for putting of and on.
NEwMARKETs.
The long Newmarket coats are made with
loose fronts and closely fitted backs, they
have pointed hood lined with ch Angeable
silk, and are without trim ming other than
| .&a1s, fhosr al Hna ma do
OF serge or OF Cheviot diagonal cloths, or the
oatmeal or monte cloths with tiny specks
raised on the surface. Large buttons OF metal
cut in fanciful fgnres are used on these long
coats and on the shorter cloth jackets.
Olive, brown, garnet, bronze-colored New
markets are shown in Cheviot and other
cloths. For midsummer travel are similar
garments made of gray, ecru, or brown mo-
hair, and also of pongee.
EToN JACKETS.
For the house are are dressy little jetted
jackets made in the Elton shape, like
Zouaye, but straight in front instead of be-
ing curved. These are made of ietted net
laid over satin lining, and edged with jet
fringe or lace; frill OF lace or Jet collar
trims the neck, and the only fastening is by
two ribbons tied in bow at the throat. A
dropping cuff of Jet or of lace is on the
sleeves The lining is fitted by seam down
the middle of the back, another under each
dItl, dQQ u e1uSic oIlOIt unEt III lEOnt, D0b
the beaded outside shows no seams but
those under the arms and on the shoulders.
1t will also be made of dark velvet. to be
worn over white blouse-waist of lace or of
muslin, and is used for young girls over
their white cashmere or flannelette dresse.
JERSEYS.
Jerseys have become staple article, and
are brought out with new trimmings each
season. At present the fancy for wool goods
extends even to jerseys, making those of
wool considered more stylish than the ella
| borate silk and beaded affairs. The newest
shapes are much shorter than those worn in
the winter, and, like other garments, are
shorter behind than in front. They are fit
ted with all the seams of a basque in some
cases. while in others the front darts are
omitted, and vest is inserted in sloped
seams that shape the jacket to the figure.
For morning and plain wear dark
Jerseys have three lengthwise rows OF Her.
cules braid, two inches wide, passing over
the shoulders and to the end in back and
front, representing box pleats. A belt of
this braid is then added. with buckle to
fssten it. More dressy jerseys of poppy red
or cardinal have q vest and border on the
hips collar, and sleeves made OF rows OF
| .on4ocho sat or, end with Ona ed turae ed