Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1885-04-30
OUR NEW YORK LETTER
WHAT ROS1LIND MAY HAS TO s.lY
IBOUT SPRING STILES.
Fhe New York Fashions Mate
riais-'ETiEnmiIg.-NiIii lery-ApriI

| ~ hNtipNh bu neN lillltflitlS. New are
the mohairs, the poplns, mousseline de
lnlnes and challiers of 20 years ago and
new are old sampler stitch borders which
/, decorate fine summer wool, the former
two coming TO us from lust season, the
latter of this year and greeting elderly
people with the same bright sprigs and
Iaunty tlowerings which adorned their
youth and now impart gaiety of attire. to
some daughter or grand daughter. Like
visions of their departed spring time too,
come those sampler stitch borders and
costumes where the quaint decoration
appears ON vests, fronts, cuffs, collar and
bnck draperies. They will be among the
most pleasing of spring outfits; yet not
more SO than white woods betrimmed with
gilt or silver cords laid ON in yermicelli or
coral designs, rs may seem convenient,
sometimes profuse and impnrting great
richness us where vest, collar, cuIs and
portion of the skirt are thus overlnid. or
agnin where II few touches make up in
delicate suggestion for lack of abundant
plncing. Pale colored woods are over
laid in the same way with matching or
harmonizing silken cords, and we nru told
that in comparison, the flatncss of braid
hns brought about fashionable contempt,
mt least for snowy dresses, although i'll
1
wear, braid is chosen above all other gar
nitures. Ottoman silks are very fashion,
able with soft dull finish and the cord
though not quite so heavy and broad us
Inst season, is yet quite noticeable.
Watered silks give change but do not
interfere with the popularity of brocade,
while satin deties dismal prophecies and
is used again i'll handsome outfits. There
never was time when black lace has had
n more leading position. 1t will constitute
entire dresses over foundation of cheap
| silk or satin, will tighten up beautifully
| better qualities of the same or afford
| finish to moire or brocade, while the
| elegance of velvet or its representative,
Nonpareil velveteen with fast pile and
| rich shadowings, united with lace, need
only be suggested to persons of taste.
TRIMMINGS.
Mr.. Wellers remark, tits the seasonin
as does it," is standard in its truth. Espe-
cially ON the fronts of dresses is grand
| display, and ON plain material rich
enough to bear it are fronts composed
wholly of passementerie and fine silk
cord Many are black, but colors are
well. represented while iridescent beads
| are often added, and glow with rainbow
changes. Evening dresses are made gor-
geous by the same, and nothing can be
handsomer than white silk relived by
white cordings combined with gold.
Strong enough to form an independent
kingdom come Independent passemen-
teries put on without rule or limitation,
and akin to these are fine beaded or fancy
galloons placed with a skillful coquetry,
especially liked for making fancy vests
on the front of plain material dresses,
which are relieved also ON cuffs, collar
and perhaps elsewhere. A suit of this
kind when worn with one of the high hats
gives look of aggressiveness, change
maybe from too much softness. From
thence downwards we reach serviceable
dresses where inexpensive braids relieve
the severity of tailor made suits, and take
the place of combinations. The family
of fringes are of little account beside the
laces of the day. With the exception of
chenille they are remanded to obscurity,
and in their place comes lace, more lace,
lace always. Fedora, Oriental and
Moresque laces in ecru and colors
flood the market. High tide will
be reached in midsummer, at watering
places, and then, of course, gradual
ebbing. Beyond the power of any garni-
ture, however, is the ribbon law. First
in coquetry, it holds the maiden's heart,
and what man so bold as not to fear its
fiuttering. Displace it you cannot. Up
held by nature, it haunts defiance and
this season especially will make felt its
power. A power not only of Identifying,
but of change. The bare dress is often
characterless, but put the bows on and
you render it what you would have it.
Pale self-colored costumes are rendered
poetical by bows of three or four pale
colored ribbons placed in long panels on
the skirt or Stimulating a vest ON the cor
sage. An Indian silk which, perhaps,
might seem feeble in tone by reason of
faint, delicate vines, is given strength by
bows of black velvet, or answering
touches can redouble effects, as when
costume showing black and scarlet figures
is adorned Mt intervals likewise by black
velvet. Bows will often nestle on lace,par
ticularly down the fronts of dresses, the
same combinations will appear ON skirts,
or again the panel idea will be carried
ont by succession of ribbon straps
which support long looped bows. At the
throat, long luoped bow is very stylish,
something shorter of course for the
wrists, but much is left always to in
dividual taste. Then gauze ribbons are
in demand for surahs and other thin
stuffs, but there is no rule.
ALPS ON ALPS.
High towering hats belle the modestyof
early importations. Brims spread an
ample circumference and with scarfs
stretching p yards by breadths of 1S
inches MS trimming, one can easily con-
cede that a hat and its belongings becomes
n serious matter. Heraldic handkerchiefs
as well are spread like banners around
turret crowns, rising from 10 TO IL
inches, while ostrich plumes find here
especial scope for that prolonged sweep
which bespeaks an enviedability to spend
money. AS n needed factor in the man
agement of these scarfs and handker-
chiefs, come little pins. In small armies
they arise, and their gilt heads shine with
stylish twinkle as they nestle among
silken folds, keeping in position successive
bunchingstill formidable lengths are suit
ably disposed of and breadths TO CORE
spOnd diminish. The fabric, OF course,
is soft, sometimes gauzy and, where
greater body is found, dimensions are
more moderate. Butthose pins are notable
power, nevertheless, and SO freely used
that ON one bonnet we have record of 30
having been employed. In writing Of tall
crowns, extreme limits have been quoted
and from thence we have gradual descents,
while i'll many eases where the crown is
lowered almost to ilntness, the brim rises
10 hight over the forehead, which brings
an equally pronounced result i'll diff
ferent way. Nevertheless. there ARE many
unobtrusive shapes, Int for II class who
delight i'll the startling. peculiar oppor-
tunity will be giv}n. .....-.. ~.
APRIL NOTES.
While black silk stockings are still very
fashionable, they are not now appro-
| pirate for white dresses, unless the trim
mings are at least partly black: willie
with colored dresses, il is more stylish to
wear stocking TO match. Whom two or
more colors appear in the costume, the
more prominent one should he chosen or,
if possible. selections can be made of
combining stripes.
Having previously recommended But
toms Raven Gloss MS the only shoe dress
ing which does not iniure leather, it is
gratifying to find ON inquiry, that ladies
now concedc il to he the best in market.
A little higher priced. hut cheaper in the
end MS it really improves the boot or
slipper.
Short wraps are n rage and more often
of colors than black. Chenille fringe is
not laid aside yet the majority are
finished with lace, in black, the French or
Spanish, in colors, the new Angora or
Yak laces which will greet MS everywhere.
For these wraps, employment is made of
brocaded materials. RosALIND MAY.