Morning journal and courier., 1885-09-07

two revers cut in points which are fastened down over a lace plating. Down the front between the revers is plaitsd ''crepe lisse'' plastron shirred on the upper part. This collar is. very suitable for wear with a batiste or plain woolen dress. The second model is of stamped Venetian tulle scalloped on the border. The collar is of gathered tulle founce, lined with white tarletan. Around the neck is a bias band of white satin to fasten the lace against. This deep collar opens in point in front. Below it is bsrbe of gathered tulle deep the founce The third model is of black velvet worked with jet bugles. The collar is cut over stiff muslin lining. Against this The collar forms bretelle in front which reaches to the waist Down the center is tulle plastron worked with jet and shirred in four places. Over the middle of each shirring is small bow of ottoman ribbon. Fichus are worn in all co1ors. Chemisettes may be shirred in the neck and form a slight puffng above the belt. A great deal of the work on plastrons is in the Russian style.
 Skirts have aprons, or quilles, with rich beaded embroidery or trimmings of pas sementerie. When there are draperies to the skirts they fall in soft folds artistically ar ranged Straight full skirts are very easily made. The breadths are sowed together; there is broad hem on the lower part and two rows of gathers around the waist, and the skirt falls over an underdress. It is precisely the simplicity of these skirts that will interfere with their popularity, as it is impossible to tell when they are made by an rienced hand. It may be imagined that the fashion does not please dressmakers. These skirts are, however, charming wear for young ladies when they are part of we'll made suit, with a perfectly fitting waist. With good gloves, shoes, and pretty bonnet, these suits are stylish as the most elabor- ate toilets. A very pretty arrangement for 8 suit is to have skirt covered by three full deep founces. These are cut straight and hemmed on the border. The jacket is loose and full in front and it opens over puffed vest. The back is half tight-ftting The collar forms two long ends, which are tied in a cravat in front The tight fitting sleeves have small outings on the lower pa-t of the outside of the arm.
 Silk is now often employed with cotton goods. At fashionable French seaside resorts suits of ''indienne, J with trimmings of deep lace and ribbon bows, are seen. Travelling and carriage cloaks are also of cotton and silk fabrics: Some of them have redingote backs of "tussor" and collars, cuffs, and puffed fronts of lowered cotton fabrics in the shade of the other material. On the waists and shoulders of these cloaks are passemen- terie ornaments of wooden beads. These beads are of medium size and are vanished and very glossy. Sometimes the garments have narrow pointed hoods of tussor lined with lowered goods.
 A variety of striped materials will be used during the autumn season. Striped revers and panel trimming are made crosswise and lengthwise. These goods of wool, silk and velvet. Moss green is likely to be very fashionable in these goods, as well as dark
 'capucine" red, brown, and shaded greenish blues. Sometimes there are several of these coiors in the goods, in which case it is com bined with plain material in any one shade of the stripes. Some new fabrics have also been manufactured for vests. They are 1T l imitation of antique textures with flora l designs in Louis XVI. style, in beautiful l coloring. A combination of light blue ans l moss green is again to be in vogue. Anothe 1 style for dress is to have coarse etamin and ruby silk. The etamine is arranged il | fine plaits over this silk. There is no unique but large ruby velvet basque. The etamin, 1 waist has small basque lined with ruby l silk. It separates over a velvet vest. Tn l sleeve does not reach the elbow. It is of vel | vet and opens up to the shoulder. A seeons sleeve of etamine reaches little below tn | elbow. It is puffed quite full.
 The great novelty for full dress toilets i 1 the ssDalmatique Theodora'' It consists o
 8 kind of stole, fastened over the shoulde l and falling straight back and front. Tn, l upper part is gathered and the plaits reacl 1 to the border of the skirt. Around tn | waist is belt of velvet or of metal. Thi l ''dalmatique" is only of light, transparen 1 fabrics over a silk dress in princess style. I | is used for evening entertainments and fo | dressy indoor wear. Black lace waists ar
 seen with all skirts. They are very particu larly made, and consist of black silk wais ! covered with lace draped in various ways nv,p SfHyla for have a
 across the bust from one shoulder to tn other and left rather full It is then take
 flat over the front of the waist, where it be
 comes narrow toward the lower part. IT
 back forms two wide bretelles, which eros l each other on the border of the waist. Je applique work Is on the shoulders, and serve
 to fasten down the plaits.
 1 A very rich bridal toilet may be of whit | lace over white faille. The front is compose of a very full lace skirt fastened on the lowe
 part and terminating in deep lace founce l This feunce falls over the trimming on tn 1 a narrow lace f1ounce, and pointed trim
 ming. Over the heading of the deep lac
 f1ounce is a thick garland of white flower 1 The lower part of the train is cut in points
 with two lace rufaes falling from under th
 points. The train is covered with lace. TI 1 waist is of faille covered with lace gatl ! cred at the neck and falling full t |
 lower part of the body is a scarf of s'gros c
 Naples'' or surah. It is tied in the back little toward the left side, where it falls
 two long ends. The straight collar is ( 1 puffed tulle. The full sleeves are gathere
 around the waist under a bracelet of flowers
 They are gathered on the shoulders in th
 same way and covered with epaulets l flowers The hair is dressed with ha
 wreath of flowers. The long veil reaches t ] the lower part of the train. This dress ma l also be of white nuns yelling, or the lac
 may be replaced by crepe de Chine. I'll
 crape makes a more elegant dress even tha l the lace.
 A dress suitable for brides mother ma
 be of French blue gros de Naples and Char . tilly lace The false skirt is covered with
 loose round faille skirt On the lower border , l coming from beneath, is a narrow stra
 colored plating. Above this is deep lae founce, with the heading covered by plai ing of faille. The unique consists of , draped apron forming a point on the rigl side and leaving the left side uncovered, 1
 show plaited quille, which is fastened 1
 the back of the skirt. The breadths in tE back fall straight on the left side and al
 slightly craped on the right near the apro1 under black jet passementerie applique worl
 The pointed waist opens in the neck l blue velvet Against the waist, under tL ) shawl point, is large round ornament of je
 work. The back of the tailor waist forms
 deep point. The tight sleeves end belo the elbow, where they are trimmed wit
 cuffs and jet work. The lace eapose | worked with beads. IF the center, in iron , I is a bunch of plunes and small bows of h,-,
 velvet and white satin intermi..ed. IT strings are of blue ribbon. velvet.