St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-03-15
WHAT SHOULD BE WORN.
Hints to the Ladies as to How They
Should Dress to be in
the Mode.
To Be Fashionable One Must be Mid
dle-Aged, or at Least Must
Appear So.
Handkerchiefs Decorated With Crouching
Leopards, Rampant Steeds and
Other Heraldic Devices.
New Dress Fabrics. Loves Of Bonnets and
Other Things for the Adornment
of the Fair Sex.
Correspondence of the Globe.

Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, March IL.
To be fashionable one must be middle
aged. Yet I cannot say that to be middle
aged is always to be fashionable. Middle
agedness as to ones clothes is the thing
most sought for; middleagedness as to one
self depends on individual procivities.
Nineteenth century gallants will gaze adj
miringly on emblems which pleased knights
of olden time. Ribbons in millinery are
woven wide to show them, but the chief field
for display is the four corners of handker-
chiefs, where crouching leopards, rampant
steeds and other heraldic devices find por-
trayal. A banner of victory, the handker-
chief is punched upon the hat with the four
armed the modern belle will go to victory.
Suddenly indeed has the handkerchief sprung
into very important position. Its employ
ment in millinery marks new era while as
neck adornment it is brought out in keep
ing. Not alone. however, in devices are we
middle-aged, but likewise in color
ing. Dull reds, faded blues, I'M
bleached Yellows and the like traverse
wide ribbons, scarfs and fabrics in bars or
blocks. The use of canvas is also a very
novel thought, yet it is not the canvas, but
what it portrays which pleases 1t is a soft,
fine canvas, otherwise called etamine and is
woven into ribbons, handkerchiefs, scarfs
and material where the quaint decora-
tons just mentioned are often seen, or
again we observe mingling of Eastern pat
terms, such as palm leaves wrought in gilt.
The wide ribbons are very wide and ried I'M
der the chin might seem formidably so, were
it not that the light texture prevents too great
stiffness. The above peculiarities are good
deal more peculiar than
THE BoNNETs
which display them, since IN shapes there is
as yet much lack OF novelty. So little that at
least one old favorite is brought out for
another season and in its fresh dress passes
for new spring beauty. The trim little
capote seems to be necessity; familiarity
breeds not contempt and once more it is
prominent. Summer styles repeat in straw,
the wintry peak rising over the forehead;
round hats show high, pointed crowns with
narrow rolling brims and these will give es-
pecial opportunity for displaying the decor
ated handkerchiefs, while the Tam O'Shan-
ter cap, hitherto made of material,
is seen in straw. The majority
of these straws are dyed and NJ better clue
can be- given to the colors which will prevail
in dress goods than that afforded by an array
of them. In English straw, chips, Milan
braid and fancy styles, they indicate popu-
larity for brown, green, dull reds, yellows
and blues. A very large number of bonnets,
however, will be of material, and here comes
in opportunity for the wool laces of the day.
They are marked and leading feature, these
wool laces. Woven constantly as material,
but likewise in yards upon yards of edgings
of many different widths and in design, We
notice continually a striving after quaint
old patterns, devised perhaps by some old
monk in the days when lace making whiled
away the time of anchorites. Great quanti
IS are in unbleached hues, and there is
more or less intermixture of gilt, but some
are dyed in fashionable shades or show unit
ings of different colors. Gilt is omnipres
ent in millinery; it glitters on
quaint portrayals of the moyen age;
winds itself among fabrics of all kinds,
shines on canvas, whether in embroideries
or weaving and traverses many yard of
fashionable ribbon. Ribbons are the most pc
culiar that have been seen for many day.
To say nothing of the canvas ribbons, NEIL
ton need only be make of such as are crossed
by faded stripes, showing dimly among I'M
bleached alterations or others where the in
envitable middle age blocks and banners
fiud representation All these are the more
conspicuous by reason OF conspicuous width
IT. were grievous mistake, however, to sup
pose that we are this season to have no
brightness. On the contrary there are rib
bons and handkerchiefs where Roman stripes
lay thick together and every hue assemblies to
give pronounced effects. Between millinery
and
DRESS GOODS
there is always a close connection. In ma
terial, therefore, we shall see etamine as
perhaps the most marked novelty while
similar ideas as to decoration will prevail
here likewise. A world also will open be-
fore US In the wool laces, whether in fabrics
or edgings and throughout the department of
costumes many new results will therefore be
brought about. AS, for example, where
the front breadth Of wool dress is
rendered novel by the placing Of a
transparent this being the name given
widths of wool lace brought out expressly for
such purpose. From half TO three-fourths
of yard in depth, they are woven with sell
wedge on the upper side and ornamental
edge on the lower and will be seen either
harmonizing or contrasting with the dress,
which elsewhere Of course will show lace
trimming of similar character. Afternoon
and evening dresses of pale pink, blue, etc,
will be prettily relieved by creamy lace; the
same shade will tighten up dark blue, brown
and the like, while black lace may give a
handsome relief to crimson. But the pos
sible tones are endless and can be left 10 the
Imagination, or / may add that any desired
information on any topic will be furnished
BY Lord &; Taylor, as also all varieties of
spring goods and millinery. These laces will
seriously interfere with com binations in cos
TUNES, as they take the place Of the brocaded
fabric. Velvet, however, will be much en-
ployed as a uuiting or component part of the
outfit. and with its constant substitute and
rival, non psreil velveteen, will be leading
factor in spring and summer. They bring
about necessary contrasts for light goods and
are obligatory for the stylish outfits Of cool
DAYS. Chine velvetis handsome aud velvet
frise figures on satin fouD datiops will interfere
With the demand for brocade in the higher
types. The frise idea is indeed growing and
now has extended 10 ilgnt WOODS, WINE caOSe
akin are bourette woods with their peculiar
kuottings. Mohairs are once again noticeable
and especially popular for travelling coats
will be the checked mohairs, silky in Iuster
and more durable than silk. Bison serge is
also being made into seryiceable dre5ses;
there is the usual complement Of diagonals,
cancels hair goods and cashmere. Wool
grapes are newer than veiliDgs, while az a
~, ed fo4trre In almost all plazaes ~ vroois
are tinsel threads traversing the fabrics or
wrought in figures.
MARCH NOTES.
The coming parasol has the new canopy
top and Is very much bowed over, so much
so, as to cause last seasons styles TO have
something of 8 pancake look Extremely