The Sunday tatler and Jersey City express. (Jersey City, N.J.) 1883-1886, 1885-02-15

| what Our Fashion Mdftress Knows
About Gentle Spring and New Dresses.
Like the violet, that, at the first approach
of ssgentle springs footsteps" rubs its sleepy
| eyes, casts off the garments of dull winter
| and rises in sweet, purple raiment to vel
come the sunshine ana the tender showers,
SO woman in lovely combination arrays
herself in the purple and gold of royalty
| and follows fast the dainty herald that
'sdoes breathe an exquisite perfume" to the
world. Yes, the colors III the kings
house" purple, and scarce, and gold :
have been woven for feminine wearing this
| spring season by the deft fingers of Dame
! Fashions workers. From the faintest
lavender to the purple of King Solomons
mantle, the faintest tinge of sunset fire to
the deepest crimson glory, and the first
faint mooniest tint to richest gold of the
trophies, these royal colors prevail Every
where they are seen, in flowers, in ribbons,
in dress goods, and as minor tones to these
rich chords of color are faint blues, delicate
grays, pale, cool greens, and the tender
perfect symphony. Whites AID blacks
but mark the resting places, deep browns,
blues and green's the phases of expression;
while pale pinks and reds, the delicate
| shading of true artistic rendering, SO there
| is divine harmony of the whole. In the
| new spring materials a master hand has
woven Natures own coloring-the batistes
| and zephyrs are but beautiful examples of
| this dress and in unusually fine quality and
| of three shade-pale blue, dark blue and
| drab. The trimming that is manufactured
especially for these batistes is very pretty
1t is made of the baiiste of fine quality
and is deliberately embroidered in cardinal
| floss. These batistes are also shown in
| pale cream, blue, cream, gray and pink
grounds, in which are strewn flowers in
soft, artistic shades A very lovely one of
this kind was of rich blue ground with
small red cross figures in silk, raised SO as
to look like hand embroidery. The effect
was very striking Next to these batistes,
which are entirely new, and the nuns
yelling and delicate cloths, which are
very dainty in wearing and tone. A pale
blue nuns yelling, with sprays of spring
flowers in faintest pink, is exquisite. A
and foliage, and a pale pearl grey
with deeper gray figured designs ornament
ing its surface, are also equally beautiful.
Armure cloths, the frill lady's cloth, and
delicate cashmere are displayed In tones of
ecru, grey and a yellowish tan, for the
early spring. These goods make elegant
costumes for street and shopping wear, and
fill admirably the place now occupied by
the conventional dark tailor suits. A
novel cloth, in soft-coloretl checks, is also
largely displayed for spring tailor suits,
and will, with many, out;ival the plain
cloths. This IS very stylish when made
with waist skirt, headed by narrow
knife plating, over which fall plain panels,
cut at the bottom in slashes and bound
with black silk braid, with bouffant
drapery, short and wrinkIed in front. but
placed very high in the back and allowed
to fall to the foot of the skirt. This
drapery is trimmed with the braid, as is
also the coquettish basque, which opens
over vest-like arrangement in front, and
where roses of the braid and but
tons decorate it very handsomely. A hat
in English walking shape, made of the
anne material as the costume; and bound
with silken band, neat, tan, undressed
kid gloves, buttoned smoothly under the
dainty cuffs, and a silk umbrella of rever-
sible silk, with silver handle, complete
spring costume that is at once extremely
stylish, neat and elegant. Many tailor
made dresses are also trimmed with fine
silks instead of braid, and the effect is ad-
lulIdblC. OAO VI buO RI6Db16Sb Walking
dresses even for the spring, is made of
heavy black silk and is displayed by very
fashionable establishment. The skirt is
arranged in alternate groups of small
plaits and broad bands of silk embroidery.
The back is perfectly plain, very full, aud
caught up in the back of the handsome
basque with a heavy silk cord very
handsome visiting or reception dress is dis
played by the same house. 1t is of very
rich shade of brown-a color something
between tan and "a bronzs. The ma
terials of which it is composed are of bro
caded and plain velvet, and the combine
ton is very elegant The front of the
skirt is trimmed with road panels of the
brocaded velvet, which meet directly in
front, and which are fastened together
with velvet buttons and silk cord. Beneath
these panels is a sash drapery of silk
matching the velvet in color, adorned with
chenille trimming; the skirt has a bouffant
back; the bodice of plain velvet has pretty
basque back. A jacket front and
vest of the brocade velvet. Michaelis, the
celebrated dress maker of Fifth Avenue,
has recently imported several handsome
novelties One that all women will greatly
appreciate is skirt and bustle-extender
combined. These skirts are made of soft
6AAhs octttAA VI WOVACA EOOeto, cO1ACI1AuO6 VI
the dress material itself They are trim
med with two deep silk plaitings or narrow
ruffies. and are made to fit any figure A
young lady has been wearing one made of
white surah silk suit or ball dress covered
with tulle, and the especial beauty of its
arrangement is that it never gets crushed
or out of place. Apropos of ball dresses
there are some recently shown that are
wonderfully pretty. One made of soft
white satin has full back terminating in a
long plain train. The front of dress is
made of white satin brocaded with flowers
embroidered in tinsel, and has pointer
drapery of the satin falling across it. The
waist is made of gold-fowered brocade
with a pointer collar at the back and
square cut front. The sleeves are three
quarters length made of the same material
and finished by a ruching Of fine lace. The
effect of this dress by gas light is exceed
ingly brilliant A lovely ball dress recently
made for a young debutante, is comprised
OF turquoise tulle embroidered with silver,
with sparkling crystal beads scattered here
and there like dewdrops. At thu edge of
the underskirt made of soft silk, is ruch-
ing of blue, mixed with faintish-rose pink.
The bodice of turquoise velvet, the basque
and the low-cut corsage are outlined with
silver. Thd lattice-work sleeves are of cut
silver beads, and at the left end of the cor
sage in pouf of pale blue tulle is bunch
of pale pink roses. Another exquisite ball
dress is of deep maroon tulle, over satin,
looped up with ostrich tips of the same
silk shade. A bodice of maroon velvet cut
decollete and q maroon tulle bertha com
pleted this novel costume. Tea-gowns are
shown in exquisite styles. They are made
ofa ctIt cotsr1 ON ,o1a