The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-08-08
MIDSUMMER FASHIONS.

women only.
Mantes grow shorter. Some of them are
like short capes with the fronts turned under
for sleeves.
Percale chemisettes collars and cuffs are
worn The collar of the chemisette is the
standing pattern with the edges turned down
A white lawn tie is worn with 1t.
Yellow, eldest daughter of light" as the
Ceestials call it, has reached the apex of popu-
larity abroad. 1t has been demonstrated that it
can be worn by all types, from the fairest Saxon
to the darkest Latin.
The best foundation for dress belt is can
vas belt, such as comes for baseball players.
The leather straps must be ripped off and the
belt fastened with one of the popular clasps,
which comes for the purpose.
fashion authority says if woman has only
two dress hats, one must be black and the other
white. The black one to be worn with light
costumes, the white one with dark dresses.
Partisan taste declares that if there be but one
bonnet, let that one be black trimmed with
white.
The Grape veil worn by widow covers the
bonnet completely, hanging almost as low in the
back as in front This hem is doubled
the outside and sewed with blind stitches.
Some use narrow folds to edge the brim of plain
Grape bonnets while others find a Grape puff
more becoming.
A dress skirt should always be draped over the
hustle with which it is to be worn. Another
point to be remembered is that the best dress
maker cannot accomplish good fit over i'll
fitting corset truth which seems self evident,
yet which many people fail to understand, and,
failing, throw the blame upon the dress SNEAKER.
Bombazine and Henrietta cloth are the only
materials that thought to REQUIRE Grape
trimmings, and these are especially used for the
very deep mourning worn by widows. The
fashion of covering the basque and skirt of these
cloths with Grape is fast losing favor, border
around a collar
now thought sufficient in any case.
All folds and ppngs must be cut exactly
the bias else they will not set prop
erly. Cut the material perfectly straight from
one selvage to the other; then fold tie cut edge
along the sevage in the form of half square,
pin and cut accurately along the folded edge.
According to the width of the fold measure,
fold, pin and cut. If bands are not carefully
cut they will never set we'll.
New bodice and belt clasps, with smaller ones
for holding ribbons. straps and the like, are
made of aquamarines and mock rubies, liver and
pearl, bronze and gold, and gold mixed with
rich colored enamels in Oriental designs. These
ornaments are in great demand, and most of
them very expensive They greatly assist
the modlste in giving stylish cachet to her
street and visiting costumes.
White is now worn at the neck and wrists in
the deepest mourning, as it is considered very
unwholesome for black Grape to come in contact
with the skin, On account of its dyes and be-
cause of the small flakes that escape from it.
Widows wear Byron collar and deep outside
cuffs of white organdy with hem an inch deep;
these with small white tarlatan cap in Fan
chon shape, are used by widows only.
Jackets are in great favor and come in a
variety of shapes and STYLES. One of the most
popular shapes is called the croizette jacket,
which opens with reverS upon the chest, and is
fastened down TO the waist under bows of velvet
ribbon. 1t is finished by a very wide sash tied
at the back, or a little at one side. This jacket
is frequently made of ribbed velvet silk of
some dark color, and may be worn with any
dress One of garnet velvet is rich over a skirt
of pink silk or cashmere.
Knife and side pleating require three times
the length of the pleating when finished, and the
same proportion is necessary for close box pleat
ing. BoX-pleating, with a space between each
pleat, takes twice the length, while folds and
bands, of course, being put on PLAIN, merely
the length of the space they are to trim Tucks
call for double their width g.. for an inch deep
tuck two inches extra length must be allowed.
Puffings may be either once and a-half or twice
the fullness, as they are to be less or more
bouffant
Embroidered founces should never be gathered
full since this hides the pattern; third extra
length is enough to make the houGces set we'll
which is all that is necessary. When the front
of skirt is laid in box pleats it is good plan to
run strip Of lining underneath, on the wrong
side of each pleat to hold it in position. Pleots
80 lined require less material and set fat under
any circumstances kits or side pleatincs
should be stayed by tapes stitched across under
meath. Pleatings of silk should be lined with
silk crinoline, to give them body.
There is great deal of looping now and ar
rangement of trimmings to one side, and this is
the case upon the bodice as we'll as upon the
skirt. Jackets are turned back with a single
pointed revers More dressy bodices are draped
upon one side only with lace, which crosses the
chest, is gathered under cluster of bows and
ends, and forms part of the side drapery upon
the skirt. Satin or MORE ribbons are arranged
as a single brace, fastened with clusters of loops
upon the left shoulder again at the belt and
descending in close testoon, effect the looping
for the drapery at the left side of the skirt
Velvet and canvas ribbons are sometimes used
also in this way, the clustered lines of color in
the latter having very good effect upon light
tints.
Sashes are sometimes seen the full width of
the silk. A pretty fashion is to knot one without
loops, and allow the full ends to fall on either
side of the tournure young ladvs gray cloth
suit has the skirt rather full and simply trimmed
with long pointed taber and boufant back
drapery. With the round bodice was worn a
long sash of soft silver gray silk, very wide, and
arranged IN enormous loops and ends in the
back. This is decided departure from the
style that makes the waist look very long but
the sash was we'll arranged, and perfectly suited
to the tall, slender figure of the wearer. Real
Roman sashes very WIDE and as soft as possible,
are liked for the evening gowns of rosebuds,
and they agree with the faint pinks blues and
Nile-greens assumed by young ladies. AS to the
arrangement each wearer becomes her own ad
wiser. for the becoming is the rule in the DISPOSE
ton of the sash.
Cuban Journalism.
Cambridge Liberator