The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-08-15
FASHIONS FOR MIDSUMMER.

Dolmans of dust-colored cloth, just bordered
with gold braid gold and colored worsted
braid, are light and useful.
The newest bonnets do not stand up sufficient
ly high over the face to elongate it, hence they
are more becoming to thin faces.
An elegant plastron to wear with the bodice of
almost any dress is in black lace. embroidered
thickly over with black jet 1t is fastened at the
back.
Black costumes. with black hats and parasols,
enlivened oy anecktie of bright ribbon and bow
of the same on the paraso, are much IN
Paris
Pongee parascls are trimmed in a novel style
with velvet ribbon; Sits cut two inches apart
and on-holed have the velvet inserted
through them.
Handkerchiefs in Cashmere valley conceits
form the decorations Of a costume in navy blue
khayyam serge The buttons used are in the
cashmere colors.
Feather fans approach in shape those of fifty
years ago. and are adorned on the concave side
with an aigrette and birds head. The combina-
ton OF feathers is especially beautiful.
Dressy and becoming colarettes made of
close set loops of ottoman ribbon in such mix
lures as green, yellow, blue and dark red. A
little jabot of the same finishes the front.
Ornamental pins for the hair are shown in
great variety. They are adorned with garnets
and diamonds. Some have owls heads or but
terflies, and others are like walking sticks, with
crutch handles
Many separate ornaments are shown for
dresses and manteettes. They take the form
of bead tasses, large balls covered with silk
represent two tassels and cords tied in bow
Knot, and many other varieties as small satin
pendants blended with straw, beads, or tinsel.
A new feature in trimming is the introduction
OF wooden beads taken from rosAries, or, at all
events, made on the same models. These show
best mounted on finely braided ealloons of gold
over transparent ground, the braiding some
times superseded by fine gold thread worked IN
tam bour.
Lace jackets lined with silk are revived by
Parisiennes. Some of these are of the lace
wrought in shape, while others are made up of
alternate rows of insertion with black velvet,
snch as thread insertion with black or copper red
OF yellow velvet or Valenciennes insertion with
stripes of mauve pink, or blue velvet ribbon.
For ladies' wear at the seaside and watering
places foulard silks are again in great demand,
and the popularity they enjoy is merited by their
elegance and convenience. They are light, cool,
dressy. and peasanter to wear every occasion
than any other silk fabric. The new patterns
are less fantastic than the designs of two years
past.
Blue and fawn colored alpacas have also found
great favor as seaside dresses, and are used as
we'll for travelling as they are more servlceabe
than the canvas stuffs provided by the modistes
for this purpose. A pleated basque with or
without belt is a popular design for alpaca
waists, while others are very severely shaped
Positions with narrow Breton vest, all in one
piece, set in the front, thicky braided in cross
rows with black or silver braid, and fastened to
the waist by a of small buttons and button
holes down each side.
Short revers jackets of poppy-red serge or of
white serge, with bars of red and green crossing
it at wide intervals. are the jaunty garments
worn at the seaside with print or muslin dresses:
these and sailor hat give smart look to the
simplest costumes, and make them serve for
nF
chooses. Dull red or green velvet is used for h
understanding collar, cuffs, pockets and wide
revers down the fronts of the white jackets,
while red jackets have velvet of the same shade
and old dull silver buttons
Sequin buttons in gold. silver steel and pearl
are again in close, overlapping clusters on the
collar, sleeves, and either side of the vest. Other
designs of perforated metal in coin shape.
with antique and medieval designs; gold and
silver are mixed with classic figures warriors
heads and other devices Bullet buttons, made
of a composition to resemble onyx in all colors,
are used on cotton and wooden dresses Small
silk crOehetted designs continue standard
fashion Tailor and rough wool dresses are pre-
ferred with silk or braided lasting buttons, like
those used on mems coats.
New long coats that cover the wearer from
the throat to the foot are made of blue or brown
cloth. with plastron and standing collar of
light fawn gray cloth, giving the suggestion
of dress of the light color beneath The coat
darts upwards, notched like the collar Of mans
morning coat, and trimmed with frogs of metal
in the new copper colors and plomb or lead
color. The skirt hangs smoothly and quite full,
yet is cut without pleatS in the back. This coat
is intended to serve for travelling wrap, and
for cool days in the autumn months
All kinds of wide ribbons are used for sashes
imported dresSes-gauZe, MORE. plaid. or
striped silk, or satin: shot silk studded with
gold flowers, and wide lace scarfs are also en-
CHI
they form the entire drapery on the back of a
French dress while on the other gowns they are
passed in soft folds around the waist, and tied
on the left side in long loops and ends. A width
of silk is often used in two loops and two long
hanging ends at the back, and these ends are
made to fall open and quite separate to show
that they are meant to represent a sash.
Gauze and lace dresses have two waists PRO
vided for Them one of which is of lace or gauze,
and the other of velvet. White and pale pink
velvet corsages with white lace skirts are ele-
CANT tolettes for watering places Shot velvet
in such colors as brown with green red with
blue is the novelty for dark corsages worn with
light canvas skirts. The trimming on the skirt
is rows of velvet ribbon sewed on the canvas
lounces before they are pleate1: Plaid ard
striped velvets and those dotted over with small
metallic balls like beads of gold or lead are worn
as jackets with various light fabrics for skirts
To make muslin and lawn dresses simply and
without lining, yet to give full appearance, is
the modistes object To do this q foundation
skirt is first made of the material. and on this is
hung deep founce extending from just below
the hips to the foot, and the top of this
hounce is concealed by the drapery; this gives
the effect of round skirt. at least very full
skirt For lawn dresses this deep founce is
gathered. and sometimes is tucked in clusters of
four tucks, each in four FIVE clusters The
drapery is breadth of the lawn drawn straight
across the top, with gathers down each side to
make it fully wrlnked. while the back has fuller
breadths tucked across the foot, and slightly
bouffant at the top.