davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Beige and Blue.

Beige and blue are to be very fashion
able this season. Blue is holiday color
and always favorite; but it has of
late years won place wider than ever,
on account of the new and subtle shades
developed, the revival OF favorite "old
blues" and the adaptability of new ones
to a wider range of wearers. Blue has
youthful. Ladies sensitive on the sub
ject, thought they could not wear it
after certain age, and to those to whom
blue is becoming, the development of
toned blues, such as smoke, grey blue,
electric blue, stone blue, and others,
prolongs the period of their wearing
their favorite color; and is q source of
pleasure and satisfaction. There Is no
doubt as to the cheerfulness, or other
wise, of color in dress, and surround
ings; and the universal and economic
use of black, is therefore from this
point of view. to be deprecated, and the
use of livelier coloring encouraged. The
smoke hues, in some of which are sug-
gestions of both grey and green, are
particularly handsome in the new faille
silks of soft and rich quality; they are
well adapted for elegant spring cos
tunes, and mag be worn by ladies of
almost any age. The sapphire blues are
more delicate, they trim richly with
velvet, and have been selected for the
handsome travelling" costumes of
several brides, who utilize them as
bridal, and afterwards as visiting cos
tunes, the real travelling suits being
less expensive and elegant.
The prettiest ginghams are made of
narrow clustered stripes in two tones of
old. or stone blue, and the most attrac-
tive percales, cambrics, and linens, in
solid grey and old China blues, with
minute white rings, small forked, or in
terlocked figures sprinkled over the sur
face.
Beige or Irvine color has been fashion
able, more or less, and in an exclusive
sort of way, for many years; it possesses
great refinement, is soft and capable
OF artistic effects, but lacks character,
unless enriched with wrought lace or
embroidery, and is not becoming to
all. 1t is paler, however, and lacks the
dull yellow tint which renders some
shades of pongee so obnoxious; and
looks well made up with lace OF the
same shade, and trimmed with black or
bronze velvet bows in rich materials.
The most suitable decoration is embrold-
cry and lace; but pale beige linens, thin
WOODS, make very pretty and reilne9
summer dresses, trimmed with lace ana
velvet.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
white wool, and CIVILIZED flann4, emit,

White wool, and twiiled flannel suits
will, it is thought, have a vogue this
summer, with good braid or knife trim
ming.
Cut beads and small buttons. as an
edge for basques and Jerseys, are effec-
tive if handsome and put upon the right
materials, and in suitable combinations;
but in common glass or metal and upon
cheap materials, they are a vulgar af-
fectatiOn.
Bonnets are small this season, hats
larger and more varied in style. A use
full selection for those who cannot afford
to match every dress, is hat of black
straw, or chip, useful size, faced with
black velvet and trimmed with group
of black ostrich tips; and white straw
bonnet faced with gathered silk, or lace,
and trimmed with lace, soft silk, or
China Grape, and clover, buttercups,
daisies, or punches of delicate lilac.
A medium, or serviceable bonnet can
easily be made to match cloth suit by
covering the crown with the cloth, and
using scrap of velvet or plush for a
small pulled brim; wing and bow
with strings to match, completes it.
The newest thing in vests to wear next
the skin, is closely ribbed, low necked,
and short sleeved Jersey jacket. 1t is in
silk and wool, and is so closely woven
that in the hand it seems only fit for
baby, but it is so elastic as to be large
enough for stout woman. Upon the
body it clings like another skin, but is
extremely fine, soft and delicate. They
are lovely summer vests, but as yet only
samples (imported) are to be seen.
II is little curious that such thing
as plain sacque is not to be found in
New York City. The sacque-shape has
gone out offashion, everything is fitted,
and so there is no longer a simple sacque
to be obtained. A lady who wished to
obtain a plain, white woollen sacque,
searched New York recently, and could
only find Jackets fitted as if for the
street, with tight sleeves, turned down
collar, and pockets, real or sham, at the
back of the skirt. She was an valid
and required something quiet and easy,
without color or appendages. The only
alternatives were few bright blue, pink
or red things, with sickening amount
of cheap Oriental lace, and ribbon bows
one not take the fortune that is awaiting
by filling the demand for invalid
sacques?
1t was stated recently and copied
widely, that every young lady in New
York City, now had prayer" rug. anc
that the more costly ones were objects
of eager ambition, and intense desire OF
the part of girls, who wished to excite
the envy of their associates, by the pos
session of more antique specimen
than they possess.
The principal of fashionable finish
ing school for young ladies, saw thu
paragraph and thought she would tes
it. She cut it out and read it to he
three hundred young ladies, from thu
best, that is the most wealthy, familie.
| in New York. Not one had prayer
rug, and only three knew what the tern
meant. JENNIE JUNE.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08

a cloak accompanies this dress, furnish
ed with removable hood, and lined
all through with beige silk. This cloak
is full, laid in side plaits. yet one of the
most graceful garments imaginable. 1t
will fold over from shoulder to shoulder,
or one side can be thrown back TO show
the lining. The new jackets are in light
rather rough cloths, and serges, both
plain ard double breasted. Braiding
when it is used is upon the front, and
upon the standing military collar. The
cut and fit are perfect They are net
deep, but are even allround; only show
ing fullness in the form of inverted
plaits at the back, which lay easily over
the cushion placed inside of the top of
the skirt of all tailor-made gowns. and
which is supported by ''saddlen be-
low, and is not therefore felt as bur-
den. The jackets are uniformly lined
or faced with silk, the buttons alone
being ornamental. The newest of these
are nut shaped, and are mixture of
oxidized metal and gilt; others are per-
fectly formed horse shoes, with dark
depressed horn centres, and pearl or
silver frames, nailed in a perfectly
natural manner. For spring street wear,
besides these jackets, there are small
cloth mantles in beige shades. lined with
silk and braided; and for indoors for
young ladies a new style of jersey in
red stockingette, pointed in front, with
standing collar, and small habit
basque. The finish upon the edge coz
sists of small gold officers buttons, cur
rant shaped, with pin head tops, which
are highly effective. Upon the stand
ing collar and also upon the cuffs, are
lines of gold and red silk braid. The
"Connaught' wrap is deep cape of
red worsted flannel in coarse twill, with
hood; it is lined with red silk plush,
and is so wide as to fold over from
shoulder to shoulder. 1t is exactly
what is needed for evening wear at
hotels, in country houses, or upon
yachting expeditions. The hood is the
monk shape, and the top fastens down
to form unique head-dress.
The "Dolgourouki" is a new carriage
wrap; it is named from the lady who
first ordered one of the kind, as the
little mantle Just described was named
for the Duchess of Connaught. The
"Dolgourouki" is made of the same
material as the Connaught, but it is a
long cloak with back fitted into the
waist and sleeves draped up with cornice
tassels, and long loops of satin ribbon,
which form profuse ornamentation in
the centre, under stylish hood. The
sleeve in front forms double cape
showing the silk lining. The whole eff
feet is striking, and very stylish, but it
is only suitable for carriage wrap. The
pretty but rough woollen checks which
are so fashionable in England and
Scotland, have obtained much favor in
Paris. but they are not liked in this
country. Most of the tailor-made suits
used here are worn by young women
who want fine smooth cloths, that
closely define the figure. They are terri
bly, afraid of looking stout, and will not
wear a coarse wool, or q check that has
tendency to give them an appearance
of embonpoint.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Progressive EuchRe.

Mr.. and Mrs. ]. C. Conklin gave pleas
ant sociable to twenty or thirty of their
friends on Tuesday evening. progressive
euchre being the principal topic dis
cussed. There were two rooms of guests,
and two games went on at the same
time. Governor Murray, Mr.. David
Murray, Miss Mercy Walker and Mrs.
R. c. Chambers were awarded the first
prizes, while the BOBBY" honors were
won by Lieutenant Taggart, Mr.. Boyd
Park, Miss Blanch Kimball, and another
lady whose name, fortunately for her,
escaped us. The evening was most
speedily and enjoyably passed by every
one fortunate enough to be present.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
The Patience Party.

Calder Hall has seldom, if ever, held
a happier company, on the occasion OF
the party given to the members of the
Patience opera company, and few in
vited friends, than assembled on Friday
evening. Most of young ladies and
gentlemen who delighted the large audi
ences two weeks ago were present,
dressed in the same costumes used
in the last scene. At $50,
the excellent band commenced the
grand march, which was one of the
most picturesque ever seen on ball
room floor in this section of the
country. From that time until 1870
the floor was kept filled with the
dancers, at which hour, the company
adjourned to Arbogast's, where an ele-
CANT oyster supper was enjoyed by all.
1t was very pleasant affair and
fitting sequel to the rendition of the
charming opera.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Berry Patterns.

The patterns of the season are very
diversified, but they cannot be said to
follow any exact law, human or divine.
What there is of nature is convention
allied, and too rigidly defined to be ma
ture; and other forms seem merely to
have been caprice of the designer, or
YEARLY put in to differentiate from
others that have preceded them. The
exceptions to this rule are in the lovely
monte cloth, with delicately shaded
leaf and flower designs, upon light
tinted grounds. Some representing
soft clusters of tiny blossoms, with
small olive leaves and woody fibres;
others leaves and woodland berries
and still other suggestions Of small
tapestry patterns which reproduce with
near perfection the work OF the needle.
Nearly all the new goods are figured,
and much larger number than usual
upon light grounds, with no intention
of combination with q plain MATERIAL
This in itself is sufficient indication Of
the absence of punched up draperies, and
the predominance of straight skirts, and
simple lines in the making up of spring
and summer dresses. China silks reap
pear with coral and berries upon wavy
grounds, or cone shaped figures in old
gold, varied with brown, and set off
with green leaves, and grounds of the
palest cream and stone rather ecru.
The colors are all revivals of those
| which were familiar to our grand
same quaint and odd but meaningless
FORMS The spotted foulards are in tiny
octagon shapes, in clusters of three, also
upon light tinted pale blue, pink, pearl
and stone colered grounds. These are
varied by small geometrical and leafy
three-pronged patterns which give
variety to this cool and delicate class of
fabrics.
Ginghams are narrowly striped and
barred in the usual pink. blue, white,
grey and gold with slight admixture
/ of darker celoring. Blues always pre-
dominate in the best class Of summer
cottons. Not bright or very light blues,
but old China blues, and those which
are softened by shading, and little
/ contrast with white. Very pretty solid
blue cambrics are sprinkled with tiny
interlocked horse-shoes, solid or out
lined, and nailed.with white dots. Others
show very small triangular figures,
open toothpicks in miniature, or tiny
leaves in outline. Perhaps the newest
and most original of these dainty little
patterns are in minute tapestry bars,
upon very small checks. or hair line
stripes. The cost, in view OF thenovelty,
being 90 cents instead of 40 per yard.
The new soft silk serges are
our old friends, the sophies, in
new dress with small figures
single or in small groups which have the
effect of embroidery. These are made
up in combination, the figured material
in various ways. as trimming or part of
the costume, the color being the same
throughout. The soft finish, the lus-
trous effects, render these handsome
fabrics very attractive, though there are
| still those who raise the old objection
that they are not silk, though the cost is
about the same as silk
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Spring out-poor Garments.

A reaction has set in against the long
cloak as dress garment, and the tide
has quite turned in favor of the pretty
mantles, short on the back, and with
long ends in front. The original feature
of these is that they are fitted in at the
back and held down to the waist by an
interior belt; while the old ones of the
same style, fashionable many years ago.
were scarf-shaped. One of their merits
is, that they require but little material,
and suit a greater variety of persons
than the long cloaks. They are also
"dressy," and easily made as part of
costume, or zen suite" that is, of the
same material as the dress. Jackets are
the only suitable addition to tailor
made dress. The New Market, or
Ulster, made in the simplest fashion,
but of soft pure materials, and silk
lined, is the recognized garments for
service and travelling; but spring silk,
or silk and cashmere suits, pongees,
surahs, and later, grenadines, muslins,
lace over silk, and other summer tissues;
may be finished and arrayed as cos
tunes by the addition of little lace of
ruffied mantelet. For the spring many
ladies are having them made Of short
lengths, or remnants of rich silk satin,
or soft figured brocade, with border
of velvet, plush, or chenille, ''leach"
fringe. The lining may be fine farmers
satin, which is warmer than twilled
silk, and is now finished with such satiny
smoothness as to rival pure satin.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
FASHION AND GOSSIP.
VITO. Of Preparation for
'0'S' tbe Coming Spring.
.,arye SUITS AND WRAPS
Cotton, SILK and Wool
SeT steer 1t9ytsrestfng items by "Jen-
ME june"
NEW YORK. March G.
of TIE HERALD

naepce of The HERALD
c'I''F, ....or Of t884-5 viii not be re-
The 's as brilliant one in the
nenn0 si.torv Of New York; perhaps it
social n,' nome the less pleasant on that
h'' DssI There is always plenty of en-
'''oa 1an,snt. public and private, to fill
isFialp.D and the absence of great pa
up au III 'eTaggeration and display is all
Fsas u tod ~ for by the absence also of
comR comp isaIonsy and heart-burnaingi and
nncn ltI T higher tone OF refinement.
8 rean5 already in existence an in
There J = Work society, which is
s.io b.. N aTr%arded. and rarely represented
nglai! sociafv columns of newspapers; ;
in tne S sS combines in itself all that
but WIZ" "nd cultivation has arrived at to
tass 1 He sweet AMI socially delightful.
9laAe ,I r-S ms to see how largely the at
II .L ! ooniV If this enviable position con-
l az in getting rid of rather than IN the
slss sn ~ Of things, people and OBJ
a i...s. and in an experience which
ec.5l, o. The value of the real and true,
lg a4eOa.,ral associations and ideas, if not
. u met to do what cannot be well done,
I i!S;ng nothing merely to initiate, but
GUILE Uir 5ibat which is fitting; and which
g 1a:o in the best, most natural and
trntbf1l manner is sure to be original
and most enjoyable.
"p There ore are at least individuals, if not
;omiIies whose lives are an apparent
, 5raam 0f refinement and educated ap-
u,sciation of the best in art and liter
ptUTe They are not mindful of their
S any, In the less favored and larger por-
Eons Of humanity; but they get rid of
their obigations in the gross, by sub
seribing to the charity organization and
other comprehensive societies, and
sraue that the work of philanthropy is
better done by these than it could be in
diTidually.
Theyafeperhaps refined and educated
TOO much, for they have gradually
narrowed their circle, and sympathies,
until they are little more than points,
which pierce fatally their humanity.
The most healthful and beautiful
thing about them is that their culture
has brought them back to truth and
nature; they prefer the real to the
artificial; they choose simple forms and
ways; and their influence is altogether
good, in keeping down the cheap pre-
tense, and vulgar artiiiciality OF the
rest Of the world.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
white Tucktng 8 Embroiderx.

A sudden impulse was given to the
wearing of white dresses last summer
by the development of machinery iniIs
application to fine white goods and the
production of new class of white ma
chine made embroideries. Heretofore
embrolderies had appeared in strips, and
been used in small quantities as trim
ming; embroidery in the piece had been
rare and expensive, only used for christ
ening robes, or by those who could af
ford the cost of an expensive washing"
dress. But quite suddenly "all-over"
embroidery, and "all-over" tucking
that is, tucking and embroidery cover
ing the whole surface, sprang into
abundant existence, displaying variety
in patterns and moderation in price
White dresses were made with whole
fronts, side panels, or deep flounces of
embroidery; the basque being cut of the
same decorative material so that the
entire dress seemed to be composed of
needlework, machine needlework to be
sure, but the effect was the same. The
stimulus thus given created a very
active demand, which has encouraged
manufacturers to increased efforts. The
new tucked and embroidered white
materials, show increased fineness,
more delicate workmanship, and better
taste in the selection of patterns. Fine
lawns and cambrics are tucked in
clusters, as well as in lines, which cover
the surface. The latter so minute that
there are many grades between the first
and those that measure quarter of an
inch. A great many straight tucked,
and straight embroidered skirts will be
worn during the coming summer. the
belted bodice of tueking or embroidery
to match
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Gossip.

SOCIAL EVENTS have been few and
quiet during the week just past.
JUDGE ZANE does not allow Lent to
interfere with his enjoyment. He was
an interested spectator of Richelieu the
other evening.
A GREAT portion of our space is given
to the interesting letter published above,
by one OF the best known writers on
the subjects she handles.
Mrs. ALIENS class of young ladies,
in gymnastics and calisthenics, gave a
very interesting exhibition at Ham
mond Hall on Friday evening, to de-
lighted audience The performances
made quite an interesting appearance,
and their eyolutions, with dumb bells,
ETC., were such as to favorably impress
the spectators. Miss Amy furnished
the piano music in her usual excellent
style, and the class was led by Miss
Florence Hampstead
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08

novelty. 1t is worth remarking that at
the best stores are found always the
largest number of old and well-known
friends, in style and fabrics. Arnold q
Constable for example can be
depended upon year after year,
for the pretty Scotch zephyr ging-
hams, for the purest of spotted foulards,
for exclusive and invisible checks, and
mixtures in Scotch and English woods;
and for original designs made ex-
pressly for them in fine line of cot
tons, thin linens. and silk maslins or
China silks; ruches are required in the
hot months of our variable climate.
These are bought regularly year after
year, by the best families in the coun-
try, and have not changed their char
acter greatly in thirty years. T;nts and
ground colors vary, designs are some
times little larger, sometimes a little
smaller, but they only 90 round and
round" after all, like the wheels in
Iodoie's" papa's watch.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
p1easnnt Birthdax surprise.

A pleasant surprise was given Mr..
David Evans, of the Twelfth ward, on
Monday evening last, the occasion be-
ing that gentleman's birthday anniver-
sary. During the evening songs. read
ings, games and sumptuous supper
were enjoyed by those present, among
whom were Mr.. and Mrs. Joshua Midg-
ley, John Midgley and wife, Joshua II.
Midgley and wife, Mrs. Rhoda Murphy,
Mrs. Anne Evans, Mr.. and Mrs. G. II.
Snelgrove, Mr.. and Mrs. William Fuller,
Miss Mabel Park, Miss Lang, Mr.. David
Midgley, Mr.. Bonnie Lang. Mrs. Amelia
Davis, Messrs. John and w. F.
Taylor and number of others.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Still the Surprise.

Tuesday evening the residence of Mr..
and Mrs. R. G. Taysum. was invaded by
large number of friends who came in
the guise of a surprise party. the occa-
sion being the second anniversary of
their marriage Among those present
were: Mrs. H. Dinwoodey, Mr.. and
Mrs. Joseph A. Jennings, Mr.. and Mrs.
G. T. Bourne, Mr. and Mrs. L. NJ. Earl
Mrs. r. e. Savage, Mrs. Rudgar Claw
son, Misses Taysum, Miss Alice SIM
mons, Miss Minnie Young, Misses
Pratt, Messrs. A w. Raybould, A. F.
Taysum, l. A. Brim, George E. Bourne,
C. S. Smith and many others.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
Cloth Suits and Wraps.

The newest Redfern gowns are in
light Vienna cloths. braided with a very
narrow copperyFgilt braid, which is set
up on edge, is highly effective, and does
not tarnish. The combination in color
is quite new and the effect peculiar, but
very good. The vest and a
panel at the left is covered
with the braiding, the basque is
finished with three rows, which simply
form an edge; the officers collar is
braided like the vest. The skirt is form
ed of side plaits in fine knife clusters,
alternating with broader ones, sur
mounted with short draped apron
turned over upon the side, and draped
long at the back A small bonnet ac-
companies this suit; the crown of braid
ed cloth matching the gown, the brim
of wine-coIored velvet, the trimming a
group of coppery red feathers.
The Irish" costume consists of n
dress and cloak of dark green cloth in
an invisible stripe, the alternate stripe
containing shades of brown and beige.
The vest, cuffs and panel at the left side
are of soft beige satin radzinier laid in
folds and crossed at intervals by diagon-
al bars of dark myrtle green silk, also
laid in folds, the end upon the hip pass
ed through a mother of pearl buckle.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1885-03-08
=, Notes of Preparation.

IN ' o.,. Is the black sheep in the north
sopS Saleldari there is no one that
it-r,.u u0', i it were possible; ay from
Silit ;Says, and threatening -i niobts
aths aor +i'er all even in the east and and
is brs sIta' month of promise thu Thu
arraonn-when it G dogs !, le n Ct
sUrs ms 5eaSf / the beginning Of s puTos'
ssOt theF s,. be seen in the s sPtHs'
aaoEs, o. | az longer in the show v w;n1
ign, ag silkenn me t1e shelves, and counters rs
Place and g cottons, have taken e&'q 4be
\, gIao like fba n u iore-handed and those o
!, ae season ny choice of the noveiti snos Sc
2 the hreparing for an e ,IlF Acre
a;e5pten .ssd; or perhaps for l a,g;at
paper ,dlfessmakelri,e snd z with the
TTiSs;;ss{edve, and SSprlng styles are aIways
TbsC.h mskeS tb lave look of freshness
s spey may ba mem Zen seem at least ' nen,
aaps ss5 little disguised f hG old aequaint-
6See and nd them for old a aar P1i
nat are better terri tba are some some