Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1885-10-08
JACKETS AND CLOAkS.
Description of the Most PopuI ar Fall an
Winter Wraps.

JACKETS AND CLOAkS.
Description of the Most Popul ar Fall an
Winter Wraps.
Three kinds of wraps are imported
for autumn and winter use. viz: cloth
Jackets for general wear, short mant-
les fore dress occasions. and long
cloaks for comfort. The English
fancy is to use rough-fin: cloths
for jackets and other outside gar
ments; but French talors prefer
smooth cloths even for short and
ja1pty Jackets. using the rough cloths
merely for borders, collars and cuffs.
The new jackets are shorter in the
back and longer in front. sloping
gradually to a point. The back has
two side forms on each side. fitting it
closely to the figure, except in very
small sizes, where this would cut up
the cloth into so many small pieces
that only one side form is preferred.
The middle forms may end in plaits
or be smoothly fitted over the tour
nure. The fronts of rough cloth
Jackets are either double or single
breasted, but in most cases the right
side laps on the left at the top and
buttons diagonally. The fronts are
now provided with darts. and are
nearer being tight-ftting than they
were in last season scoats. The boucle
cloths and the thick blanket cloths
with rough finish, the diagonal cloths
and the somewhat smoother home
spuns. are made up in this way in dark
brown, blue, plomb and black, and
there are many cloths that combine
two colors, such as brown with blue or
brown with red The standing collar
about two inches high is preferred on
these coats, and may be of cloth, or
of velvet, or of heavy repped silk.
1t is finished around the edges with
piping or cord of mohair braid such
as finishes the edges of the whole gar
ment; the fronts of the collar are
straight, and are made to meet, being
provided with button-hole in each
end, through which two linked buttons
are passed; if not fastened in tn s way,
there is small clasp of wool or metal.
fancful design. The coat sleeves are
amply loose all their length but have
no added fullness at the top. Small
pockets bound with braid are on the
sides.
Very large flat buttons are again
used, and there are generally two sizes
on the same jacket; at the top and at
the waist line are set buttons two inches
in diameter, while those between are
but half that size. Naturally, fewer
buttons are used. now that they are so
much larger, and III costumes these
large buttons are confined to the skirt
and coat, while smaller sizes that fasten
more easily are placed on the corsage.
Flat plaques or cup-shaped backgrounds
OF bright metal holding stars, flowers
or fans of darker metals are the popu-
lar designs for buttons on wraps and
on cloth dresses. The fancy for vests
and for revers fronts continues, but
these are seen more often on the fine
broadcloth jackets that are imported
from French modistes. Dark green
cloth is in favor for French jackets cut
with the fronts turned back in revers
that lap only at the waist line, disclos-
ing above this a vest of the cloth or of
satin, plush or velvet. Brown, blue
and black cloths are similarly made.
and many are finished with high col
lar and sleeve bands of furs or else of
rough Astrakhan cloth. Braid is still
used in diagonal rows and in points on
the vest, collar and sleeves, and as
border on the lower edge. Alaska
sable Persian lamb-skin and the light
natural beavers will be the popular furs
for trimming cloth wraps.
Long cloaks are made with closely
fitted backs, half-loose fronts and
square sleeves. The back is cut off
lust below the waist line, and the full
ness necessary for the skirt is added
t,,,o re in h
ers that are taken in long stitches,
making the edge shelve out from the
closely fitted waist The fronts may
be single or double-breasted, but are
mostly fastened only as low as the
waist. The trimmings are arranged in
lengthwise lines, as a border at the
foot is not desirable on these large
wraps, unless the wearer is very tall
and wishes to shorten her apparent
height. Quilted satin Innings are in
the upper part of such garments, but
the waddng seldom extends below the
hips, as it is not needed there for
warmth, and this helps to reduce the
weight, which has hitherto been the
objection to large cloaks. Two kinds
of velvet or plush or else heavy ribbed
silks, are in the most dressy long
cloaks, while palmer garments are of
boucle cloth or brocaded woods, or else
the blanket cloths that need no lining.
For ulsters and closely fitted redingotes
the diagonal cloths are much used, and
with these are hoods with lining and
revers of plush. either plain or striped.
The wood-beaded galloons and Theo-
dora braids are the trimmings for long
cloth coats. Striped and checked
homespuns are liked Tor travelling coats,
and these have the waist and sleeves
lined with satin.-Harper'' Bazar.
DIiPI II 0DINiON