Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-06-06

ed in this manner, which was formerly
/ from $50 to SIS, is now from $25 to $30-in
stock, of course, not made TO order.
/ 1t is an unusual thing, however, 20 ind
new designs in any ready-made depart
ment. The 'stock" of ready-made suits,
/ cloaks, jackets, costumes and the like, Is
made up by great factory firms before
Jan. for the following spring and sum-
mer, and by July for the succeeding au-
tumn. Naturally, they are cut from an
cient patterns and follow all the old ideas
in regard to "draDery." Later designs
! imported, homemade and adapted-are
made up to order or for special exhibition,
and double, treble, or quadruple the price
charged for the railroad suits, which
are generally of coarse material coarsely
made. Ladies who can do their own
! dressmaking, who can put on touch OF
| hand embroidery, and who have intell-
| gence and aptitude enough to guide them
In color and to proper selection of de-
signs and patterns, have an Unreasonable
! advantage over other women, for they can
always lead in the matter Of fashion, at
the same time that they can adapt and in
dividualiZe their own dress at less than
half it's cost to less skillful, less fortunate,
or less industrious individuals.
This season the points of difference in
formation and construction are very de-
cided, and dress of last year, or made
after last years styles, can be detected at
once by an experienced eye. The features
this year are the straight skirt, the short
habit basque, the absence of drapery or
its massing high at the top of the skirt,
the short outdoor garment, and the revi-
val of a number of features which distin-
| guish the dress of thirty to fifty years ago.
One of these is the reintroduction of the
cap placed over the top or used in place
of sleeve. Another, the shoulder trim
ming known as bretelles, which extend
down the back as we'll as the front of the
bodice, A third is the restoration of the
long, wide sash, bowed at the back, and
fourth the short sleeve with high French
waist full at the belt. plain on the shoulder
I for young girls.
COMPLETENESS IN COSTUME.
The most obvious and most decided
characteristic of the different kinds of
costumes is the care with which the de-
tails Of each are arranged to suit the
/ general tone and purpose of the entire
! dress. The newest hat to wear with cloth
suits, tailor made and finished in high
military style, is ''Amazone." Its high in
the crown but not pointed, with brim
| turned up on each side and sloplng of at
/ the back, but straight in front, where 1T
projects little over the forehead. The
| trimming usually consists of soft silk
| with pompons, dark-blue with wine
/ cOlOred red, or Irvine shade with brown.
/ The Lolita hat is a Manila straw with high
crown sloped up and brim projecting in
| front but taperlng off to nothing In the
/ back This is trimmed with a striped
| canvas scarf and an aigrette, and is suit
able with combination walking dress.
! The Fedora" dress is mastic wool with
| full skirt front in satin and orDamentation
| Of narrow gold braid, is accompanied by
Tam O'Shanter made OF ruby satin COW
| cred with Tuscan lace braid and Orna-
mented with two straight quill feathers
| in shades of mastic to brown.
| Another dress in the same style is made
in two shades of brown, with brown satin
/ for the foundation of the hat.
THE NEWEST IN BLACK TOILETS.
! For handsome black toilets, new and
/ effective Escurial figured grenadine is
/ used in combination with the plain all
/ fabric in armure patterns. The figures are
| large and arranged so that there is neither
! ''up" nor ''down," an advantageous feat
ure, as the fabric is costly and waste
should be avoided. The heavy outlines
are precisely the same as the homemade
| Escurial lace, and the effects are obtained
by difference in the size and formation OF
| the mesh, which gives lace-like designs in
the soft, seml-transparent fabric. Escu-
rial grenadine is S. to IS per yard, and is
used for fronts or panels of dresses, and
for the body part OF the small wrap or
mantle, which is otherwise trimmed with
Escurial lace, or with a mixture Of ball
fringe and point D'Orleans.
Lace is not at all 80 much used on fine
costumes as last year, embroidery having
largely taken its place, and the contrast
of plain with figured material Yak laces
are an exception, but their reign will be
short in popular sense, because they are
not desirable in the coarse patterns, in
which alone they are attainable by the
majority. Fine wooden lace is beautiful
but not effective upon wool, and out OF
place as trimming for anything but
woolen costumes. 1t is therefore hard to
do anything with it that will repay its
cost in additional beauty or appearance
OF value. 1t is very delicate and pretty
upon fine nuns yelling and thin wooded
TISSUES, but 1t is also costly, and the nat
trimming are more in vogue, have OBJ
tanned the lead, and look newer.
Wooden lace is sometimes effectively
used to cover a contrasting color COM
bined with cream or mastic, and the re-
suit is lovely if lace and material are fine,
and the effect repealed In bonnet or Tam
OShanter cap.
Last winter very novel and beautiful
ball dress, an invention of Worth, was
described. 1t consisted of silk tulle into
which were woven small silver loops over
satin, the loops serving as holders Tor
myrads of tiny vlolets. There were no
flOunces and no drapery. Only the show
ers of delicate little blossoms upon the
still more delicate fabric, which was still
beautiful when the flowers we're removed,
the silver links looking like a small cres-
cent design upon tulle. Recently I'm
ported dresses in black, cream-white,
and ecru and white, are a strong re-
mnder Of the lovely covered ball
dress. They consist Of a complete
skirt and bodice Of beaded lace
over silk, quite plain with the exception
! Of narrow pleating round the bottom,
over which the scalloped edge is fastened.
There is no ribbon or trimming lace
needed, and nothing of the kind is used.
/ They are literal showers OF light, larger
| beads outlining the form Of the bodice
and edging the narrow open collar which
is thrown back. Simpler dresses of the
I same kind are Of the loyeliest white and
/ ecru embroidery, the embroidery covering
! the entire depth of the skirt above a mar
I row pleatIng forming the sleeves and
forming jacket upon the bodice which Is
| beautifully tucked both back and front.
JAPANESE FANS
! take the place OF painted satin and feather
| fans when warm weather approaches, but
/ they are not confined TO the stih, gaudily-
| decorated paper styles which are sold any
where from 10 80 cents. The fine Japan
csc fans are painted by hand on silk, and
10, q 4. fafIs nd auNat nuN