Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-03-07

is quite new and the effect peculiar but very
good. The vest and a panel at the left is covered
with the braiding, the basque is finished with
three rows, which simply form an edge; the
officers collar is braided like the vest. The
skirt is formed of side plaits in fine knife clus.
tiers, alternating with broader ones, surmounted
with short draped apron turned over upon the
side, and draped long at the back. A small
bonnet accompanies this suit, the crown of
wine-cOlored velvet, the trimming a group of
coppery red feathers.
cloak of dark green cloth in an invisible stripe,
the alternate stripe containing shades OF brown
and beige. The vest, cuffs and panel at the
lett side areOf soft beige satin radZimer laid in
folds and crossed at intervals by diagonal bars
of dark myrtle green silk, also laid in folds, the
end upon the hip passed through a mother of
pearl buckle. A cloak accompanies this drsss,
furnished with removable hood and lined
all through with beige silk. This cloak is full,
laid In side plaits, yet one of the most graceful
garments Imaginable. 1t will fold over from
shoulder to shoulder, or one side can be thrown
In light rather rough cloths and serges both
plain and double breasted. Braiding when it
IS s used is upon the front and upon the stand
They are not Deep but are even all around only
showing fulness in the form OF inverted plaits at
the back, which lay easily over the cushion
placed inside of the top of the skirt of all tailor
made gowns, and which is supported by a sad
die below, and is not therefote felt as a burden
The jackets are uniformly lined or faced with
SILK, the buttons alone being ornamental. The
newest OF these are nut-shaped, and are a mix
fectly formed horse shoes. with dark depressed
morn centers, and pearl or silver frames, nailed
In a perfectly natural manner For spring
street wear besides these jackets, there small
cloth mantles in beige shades, lined with silk
and braided; and for indoors for young ladies,
new style of Jersey in red stockingette pointed
In 'front.', with a standing collar, and a small
habit basque. The finish upon the edge con.
sists Of small gold officers buttons, currant
SNAPPED, with pin head tops, which are highly
effective. Upon the standing collar and also
upon the cuffs are lines of gold and red silk
red worsted flannel in q coarse twill with q
hood. 1t is lined with red silk plush, and IS so
wide as to fold over from shoulder to shoulder.
1t is exactly what is needed for evening wear at
hotels, in country houses or upon yachting eX-
petitions. The hood is the monk shape and
the top fastens down to form a unique head
DRESS
The "Dolgourouki' is a new carriage wrap
1t is named from the lady who first ordered
scribed was named for the Duchess of Con-
naught. The .'Dolgourouki' is made of the
long cloak with back lifted into the waist and
sleeves. draped up with cornice tassels and long
loops of satin ribbon, which form profuse orna-
menfatlon in the center, under n stylish hood.
The sleeve in front forms double cape, show.
ing the silk lining. The whole effect is stril1-
ing and very stylish, but it is only suitable for
carriage wrap. The pretty but rough woOllen
cheeks when are SO fashionable in England
and scotland have obtained much favor in
Paris, but they are not liked in this country
Most of the tailOr-made suits used here are
worn by young women who want fine smooth
terribly afraid of looking stout and will not
wear coarse wool, or a check that has ten
dency to give them an appearance of embon-
point.
SPRING OUTDOOR GARMENTS
A reaction has set in against the long cloak as
dress garment, and the tide has quite turned
in favor of the pretty mantles, short on the
back and with long ends in front. The original
features of these is that they fitted in at the
back and held down to the waist by an interior
nf no Sfx-lo 70
1onabe many years ago. were Scarf-shaped. One
of their merits is that they require but little
material and suit a greater variety of persons
than the long coaks. They are also s.dressy,"
and easily made part of costume or zen
suite;' that is, of the same material the
dress. Jackets are the only suitable addition to
tallor-made dress. The newmarket or ulster
made in the simplest fashion, but of soft. pure
materials, and silk-lined, is the recognized gar
ment for service and travelling but spring silk
or silk and cashmere suits, pongees surahs, and
later, grenadines, muslins, lace over silk, and
arrayed as costumes by the addition of little
lace of rutf1ed maAtelet.
For the spring many ladies are having them
made OF short lengths or remnants of rich silk,
satin or softfgured brocade, with border of
velvet, plush or chenille 'leach' fringe. The
lining may be fine farmers satin, which is
warmer than twilled silk. and is now finished
with such satiny smoothness as to rival pure
satin.
BEIGE AND BLUE.
Beige and blue are to be very fashionable this
season. Blue is a holiday color and always a
favorite, but it has Of late years won place
wider than ever. On account of the new and
subtle shades developed, the revival of favorite
''old blues and the adaptability Of new ones
to wider range of wearers Blue has usually
been considered peculiarly youthful. Ladies
sensitive on the subject thought they could not
wear 1t after certain age and to those to whom
blue is becoming, the development of toned
blues, such as smoke, gray blue, electric blue
stone blue and Others prolongs the period of
their wearing their favorite color, and is a
no doubt as to the cheerfuness or otherwise of
color in dress and surroundings, and the uni.
yersal and economic use of black is therefore.
from this point of view, to be deprecated, and
the use OF livelier coloring encouraged. The
smoke hues, in some of which are suggestions
some in the new faiIle silks of soft and rich
quality; they are well adapted for elegant
spring costumes and nd may be worn by ladies Of
delicate; they trim richly with velvet, and have
been selected for the handsome "traveling' COS
bridal and afterwards as visiting costumes, the
real travelling suits being less expensive and
elegant.
The prettiest ginghams are made of narrow
clustered stripes IN two tones of old or stone
blue, and the most attractive percales, cambrics
and linens, in solid gray and old china blues,
terlocked figures sprinkied over the surface.
Beige or Irvine color has been fashionable
for many years. 1t possesses great refinement,
is soft, and capable of artistic effects but lacks
character, unless enriched with wrought lace or
embroidery, and is not becoming to all. It is
paler; however, and lacks the dull yellow tint
which renders some shades of pongee so obnox-
ious, and looks well made up with lace of the
same shade and trimmed with black or bronze
velvet bows in rich materials. The most suit
able decoration is embroidery and lace but pale
beige linens or thin woods make very pretty
and refined summer dresses, trimmed with lace
and velvet.
White wool and twilled flannel suits will. It is
thought, have vogue this summer, with good
braid or knife-edged trimming
Cut beads and small buttons, as an edge for
basqueS and jerseys, are effective, if handsome
and put upon the right materials and in suitac
BILE combinations; but in common glass or me-
tai and upon cheap materials they are vulgar
affectation.
comets are small this season. hats larger and
more varied in style. A useful selection for
those who cannot afford to match every dress
Is hat Of black straw or chip useful size faced
with black velvet and trimmed with a group of
black ostrich tips; and white straw bonnet
faced with gathered silk or lace, and trimmed
with lace, soft silk or China Grape and clover
buttercups, daiseS or punches OF delicate lilac
medium or serviceable bonnet can easily
be made to match cloth suit by covering the
crown with the cloth and using scrap OF vel
vet or plush for small pulled brim; a wing
and bow, with strings to match, completes IT,
The newest thing In vests to wear next the
skin is a closely ribbed, low-necked and short
sleeved Jersey-shaped jacket. it is in silk and
wool, and Is so closely woven that in the hand
1t seems only fit for baby, but it is so elastic
as 10 DE large enough for a stout woman. Upon
the body IT clings like another skin, but is ex-
tremely fine, soft and delicate. They are lovely
summer vests, but as yet only samples Jim.
N ha