Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-10-03
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SATURDAY, OCTOBER s. 1855.

fashions, as well as OF politics. There is
keener competition than ever on the part
ofindividual leaders aud authorities to
maintain the supremacy of the Partisan
styles; but there is no longer any single
standard or supreme authority. such as
was recognized when the Empress
Eugene represented. by right of her
beauty and taSse, when she was at the
height of hc. lNwer, with all the skill of
the most experienced nation in the world
In the art OF dress at her disposal. OF
course the change is for the benefit of the
world at large, but it makes the
task OF the French manufacturers and
caterer-especially to the Ameri-
can tastes-mOre onerous. American
buyers are at once the desire and
the despair of the French dealer and man
ufacturer. They spend literally when
they find what they want, but they are no
longer SO easily pleased as formerly; they
do not accept everything as formerly, they
all want something Original" and EEK
elusive" yet it must be enough like eX-
listing modes not to startle, while not a
few furnish their own Ideas. and even eX-
ecute designs and insist upon having them
carried ont. 1t must be said, however,
that an idea is rarely furnished, that it is
not improved upon; if not so creative as
they have been, they know now TO use,
combine, adapt and apply better than any
other artiticers in the world.
MILLINERY AND IT'S RESOURCES.
When it is said that hats are very high
and bOnnets small, it is only repeating
what has been said at home during the
last two seasons, and it does not give any
idea OF the exceedingly pronounced shapes
of the steeple-crowned head-gear, or the
devices by which the effect of height is
increased. The hats are generally mar
ROW oG wall 81 tall notwithstanding TINT
the velvet, plush, or cloth il not put on
the foundations plain, but laid in folds,
irregular, and after forming hollow CEN
ire to one side rather than at the back,
where much of the trimming is now
massed. But the folds are always length
wise, and IL not straight up and down are
ingeniously arranged TO add to the high
aigrette style of the OrnamentatiOn. Wide
bows have disappeared, velvet, the new
scaris, and ribbons, with fine terry, bou-
rette and pOwdered-gold effects, are ar
ranged IN upright folds and loops, with
old spear heads, halberds, and warder's
keys for tastenings. The new stuffs are
old venetian; the new ribbons, ornaments,
and jewelry, renaissance, revivals of the
designs of the middle ages.
BONNETS.
The bonnets are small, but they show
much more variety than any time since
]
! orally as well as fguratively. The cloth
bonnets have had great success, and
! they are now embroidered in pieces to
match that part of the costume. The brim
having a narrow putting of velvet and an
overlapping of fine gold cord, or braid, or
lace, under the embroidered edge. Feath-
ers are more used than flowers, not the
''tips," or groups of ostrich feathers,
which have been so popular with us, but
/ 20 pf ba iOla viii afn 70
attachment, straight heron's feathers.
with fancy markings, cocks crests and
| tails, and heads and wings of the wild
duck, or small initiated deer heads with
antlers. The bOnnets, though they con-
tinue small, are quite different from any
thing we have had recently. The brims
often lay close, are very small and
recede toward the centre, while the
crown has acquired additional char
acter by being made fully,
and winged BY depressed, but richly
decorated band through the centre.
Bands of fur. such as otter and astrahan,
sometimes outline this form, upon plum
or wine colored velvet, the soft buns, edg-
ing the Golf, and showing a fine gold or
silver finish. Though flowers are little
used there are reproductions In natural
colors OF magnificent begoina leaves, or
leaves of the "foliage" plants, which are
very striking upon dark velvet and in con-
junction with fine gold work. The
pointed brims are still seen, and Will
doubtless be used more or less, because
they are so becoming to some faces, but
the Golf forms are newer and possess more
refinement.
The scarves used upon hats as trimming
reappear, but are considered
MORE f'ENGLIsH' THAN "FRENCH.o
Some are enormously wide and long and
Al. - 1.
| dress, as well as the hat or bonnet; In
deed some modistes are utilizing them in
this way for "taIlor" made gowns, deftly
arranging the stripes in vertical lines,
and carefully harmonizing the colors with
the plain material. This use of them is
suggested by the dark, rich cOloring and
the surface finish, which is that Of differ
ent kinds OF dress material or fabric or
stripes of different kinds of ribbon, uncut
velvet, silk bourettes. powdered moss and
tapestry patterns. These effects which
are all seen in rich stufIs, reappear in
ribbons, and the wide scarf groups them,
as if they were composed of these rich
ribbons, woven together in wide stripes.
Chaplet, or "rosary," beads assist largely
in the decoration of bonnets, especially OF
those which are made Of embroidered
cloth, In conjunction with velvet. Small
carved beads edge the Golf, and orna-
mental bands, ard sometimes assist In
forming the design upon the cloth The
use OF fur Is prefgured by its employ
ment upon very rich bOnnets and a long
cloth garment, edged with fur, lined with
satin and opening over a velvet gown will
be certain to be fashionable as we'll as dis
tinguished.
ALL WOOL UNDERWEAR.
There is an entire absence in Paris OF
all those experimental and reformatory
ideas in dress, which are found, more or
less, in England, Germany and America.
There are no ''unlon combination" under
garments, not "chemsettes," or scheme
sOons, y nor 'refOrm" waists, no "divided"
skirts, no "Jaeger"-pronOunce YdqeT-
wool; only daIntiness itself i'm the way OF
knitted silk, silk and wool, or cotton un-
derwear, supplemented by ''linen" which
! is handmade and feather-stitched, pref
tily trimmed and sold at a lower price
than we can buy the commOnest machine
made article for at home. or course IL is
said we pay higher for labor, but the poor
women starVe who make our low-prlced
underwear, Just as nearly as they do here,
Notwithstanding the difference" while
here the manufacturer pays much biaher
for his material. This is the fascination IN
regard TO buying In Paris; superiority OF
cut lin details) and workmanship az well
as price. over the corresponding article No
home. The difference in price 10 not near
80 marked as formerly, and Is better