Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1885-12-03
FROM C0REA,
BY MRS. DR.. HERON.
The Journey-strange Scenes-Life Mt the
Corean Capital-A Reception.

The Journey-strange scenes-Life ut the
Corean Capital-A Reception.
DEAR FRIENDS; From the ancient city
of Seoul, in the Hermit Land" we send
you good newsand loving greetings.
1t would make my letter too long
should / attempt to tell you Of all the
strange things we have seen and heard
since we said goodbye to you. However,
on the 9th of May we passed through the
Golden Gate, and sailed out to the west,
keeping well in the beautiful golden path
the setting sun marked out for US upon
the great, lonely water, with never a sail
or friendly mast in sight But 1t was
calm, blue sea, with pretty little white
caps dancing here and there, looking al
together innocent Of storm or danger.
And the soft warm south wind whispered
many promises Of fine weather. The
grizzly headed captain also reassured us
with famous accounts of the fifteen previ-
Gus voyages OF the brave iron clad
Arabic; and we are happy to add our
testimony in regard to her virtues, for in
just eighteen days from our departure we
were landed safe and well in Yokohama,
Japan, where we spent two weeks with
our dear DR.. Hepburn. From thence we
went to Nagasaka, where we found q
miserable little steamer bound for the west
coast Of Corea, and we were told that the
only wonder was that there should be
any ship sailing for that 'hermit land
land so self-possessed and egotistical
that it has cared not whit for the out
side world, and only asked to be let
alone in its primitive glory. There was
also some doubt expressed in regard to
the kind Of reception we might meet
with, and we were strongly advised to
keep our missionary character in the
background. Nothing daunted, however,
we took passage on the little ship, and
the winds and the waves did their best to
make us repent our decision Talk
| about having ones heart in ones mouth,
the sensation is nothing compared with
that produced by having your stomach
rise to that position.) But on the goth Of
June we sailed into the little port Of
Chemulpo, ON the west coast of Corea,
| where we were met by our co-worker,
Rev. II. G.. Underwood, and were taken
to little inn kept by Chinaman, where
we spent very uncomfortable night,
and the next morning we made prepara-
tions for an early ride across the noun
tains to Seoul, twenty five miles away;
but we found there were no ponies 10 be
hired at any price, and We were in dcs-
pair, when the chief Of the customs staff,
hearing Of our distress, offered to lend
his chair to me. Although it was his
chair Of state it was only queer little
box with long poles fastened to each side
/ Mr. Underwood then told Dr. Heron thai
1 he.could ride his pony half the time II hs
could walk Nthe othei, hall, 80. with eiEh,
I oooiisa to carry my chair, the servant O1
the gentleman who so kindly lent tho
chair, and our one little pony, we started
after much delay and quarreling on tht
part Of the coolies over the few thousand
''cash" they had received-1, 700 are val
ued at one dollar, and indeed they did
not come TO a peaceable understanding
until we had gotten well out into the
mountains We passed through a mum.
ber OF little villages where the chair-men
always put me down in the midst of the
streets and went into drinking houses to
spend their Cash" for "lool' or wine,
and all the village would gather around
my chair and try to get q peep at the
queer looking "peveem' (or LADY, behind
the closely drawn curtains Of the chair.
When the gentlemen overlook us the
chair men would pick up my little box
and start of again in a brisk trot; once
they fell down, giving me quite a shak
ing up. When we were in the country
would push back the curtains, to the
great surprise Of the chair-men, and look
with wondering eyes at the strange bar
rem ruts and soft green valleys, which
were hereafter to surround me. VIZ
passed great many rich fields in q fail
state of cultivation, but the houses were
miserable, looking not unlike the rude
thatched nest Of the magpies, which We
could see in the tops of almost all the tai
trees, and l began to wonder how WI
could keep at all comfortable in such ;
house, but was greatly relieved when tn,
truly picturesque south gate OF the an
cient city came into view The castelate(
city wall too was an agreeable surprise
and when we had entered, although tn,
sights and odors were not altogether de
Ilightful, yeti caught glimpses Of som,
tiled roofs and more comfortable houses
Very soon we had reached Dr. Allen
street gate, aud when we we're announced
Mrs. Allen and the baby came to gree
us. And since that day we have grow
more and more happy, and cheerful il
our new country, although it is mos
heathenish land, and we see and hea
much that is horrible, such as the head
less bodies Of men lying in the streets
etc., etc. Yet, surely, there is grea
promise Of better things for Corea, ant
4. we hope to.sec the work well begun.
Dr.. Heron went into practice in tn
hospital the day after we arrived, and h
always brings good news when he re
, turns. And to-day, perhaps, has beel
Eone Of the. most eventful days in its his
, tory. Even now, while write in til
quiet of my own room, the air still seem
to be vibrating with the twanging Of dis
J cordant strings and the booming Of tn
J big bass drum. The gauzy blue robe
and powdered faces of the Corean bellies
together with the majestic high toppe
hats and full white pants of the honors
: BILE gentlemen are drifting through m
| mind in confused sort of procession
There are also "reminiscences Of bar
/ quoting table. All, such feast as
, wasl / will not give you the menu
is sufficient to say there was provide
, every delicacy the land affords. with til
exception Of dog chops and horse steak
a feast fit to set before the king, an
could you have seen the dignifed white
/, robed parsonage who sat on the floor jus
across the low table, l dare say 20
would have mistaken him for his majci
: ty, certainly you would call him yer
Q grand looking old gentleman. He wa,
/ however, the president Of the foreign Of
: fee. But to continue my story. Th
/. native string band was brought from tn
9 palace, the one which plays before tn
king, and. the cat-gut was not allowed I
l rest during all the long meal. The littl
blue-robed "ke-sangs," or dancing girll