Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1885-09-26
PAIL FASHIONS,
The New York Ever.ing Posi- Of Sept,

SoiillOIIdDlc anu mover SOSSttntlS. pro-
vided for the coming wet season, are made
of doe-colored mohair, made perfectly
water-repellant. These have long capes
and are cut in close surtout shape, and
long enough to cover the entire dress be
Heath
The fashion of open or halfopen bodices
has created demand for chemisettes,
guimpes, and old-fashioned stomachers Of
every sort and made of every kind of
fabric. For morning are plain chenisettes
made OF finest white linen, laid in cluster
tucks, with narrow hands of insertion
alternating, and neat turnover collar as q
finish, to be fastened with double studs
held by a fine gold finish, to be fastened
with double studs held BY a fine gold
chain. Then come more dressy faRcies in
lace and embroidery, and handsome chem
isettes Russo OF exquisite French needle
work, wrought on Swiss muslin and spe-
eial patterns. There are also guimpes OF
black tulle, bead-wrought, with alternating
stripes of guipure lace, also worked with
jet, and delicate evening styles made OF
! cream Spanish blonde ecru gauze, closely
shirred and chenille dotted, with mauve,
| black, scarlet, or pale blue; and lastly en-
tire plastrons, reaching the whole front of
the bodice, made Of soft Victoria silk and
superbly embroidered in white silk, with
| tiny flowers, and dainty buds made wholly
| of seed and fine Roman pearl beads.
A pretty French bonnet in princesse
shape, displayed by an uptown milliner,
had its entire surface covered with deep
red and orange-shaded velvet, nasturtiums
and wall-iower blossoms, which were
vailed with black Brussels nets dotted with
jet beads. Another larger bonnet of dark
Venetian green velvet was wreathed with
shaded plush autumn leaves, magnificently
ppiOrp6 Saariaf
separated, but with one gorgeous shade
blending into another like the natural
foliage. A third bonnet was made of ruby
velvet, and trimmed with q mass of pale
pink velvet dahlias set up directly in front
One model in black velvet was made
brilliant and most effective by long, slen-
der sprays of vivid red sumac arranged
like feathers ut the front and sides of the
tshwifen poke, which Jared sharply in
! the center, and curved broadly at each side
These flower and foliage-trimmed bonnets
were exceptions to the general rule which
prevailed among the handsome array Of
bonnets and hats, as wide cashmere pat
termed scarfs in deep autumn combinations
| of color, velvet, gilt ribbons sparkling
| tinsels, embroideries on net. military
| braids in basket weavings, and fancy dotted
| and striped ribbons, with scalloped edges.
| form the gay garniturage of the majority of
stylish models.
The Louvre" jacket, made of shaggy
! or rough-surfaced cloth, with its velvet
reverS and collars and large silver buttons,
bids fair to became one of the verv popular
styles for winters livery. The coat can be
worn open, or fastened closely to the throat,
as taste or discretion may suggest. The
! fronts are half loose even when the Jacket
| is buttoned, but the back fits snugly, and
is considerably shorter than the front.
Though there is but slight variation in the
shape, considerable in style is comprised
| by the use of many different fabrics-by
| the employment Of plain instead of rough
| cloth, or giving it decidedly English ap-
| pearance by making the wrap of plaided
| goods, with hood at the back gayly lined.
and broad pocket flaps at each side like
wise frightened, and trimmed with large
| smoke pearl buttons, which reflect the
| colors OF the plaid, instead of the usual
metal ones There IRE, again, imitation
| Astrakhan or Persian lambs wool trim
mings upon the coat, or the new tolslE
fabrics are utilized Tor collar and revers.
| Trlhing as these variations are theg re-
vent that unpleasant similarity which, in
the case of very popular fashion, too
often become weaFlsome, monot0nOus and
! common.
Coquclicos red and deep rich shade of
olive brown are Handsomely combined in
! elegant Partisan visiting dresses of Lyons
| satin and plush. The richest and most
elaborate Of these have the roppy-red satin
| Yaistc0at densely covered with a magnifi-
cent embroidery OF brown beads and
chenille of like shade.
Some 0I the new velvet costumes are
mace in short princess style, plain at the
| back of the bodice, with full butterfly
| drapery arranged upon the lower portion.
| Tho of lNah lodi
! short close-htting confront slightly open
to show the vest beneath. In some instan-
| ces the skirt portions, front and bar~ fall
| IN rich, straight folds, with mario, alait-
| ing at the foot Of the skirt; in others there
] are box-plaitngs down the entire front,
with satin of q contrasting shade set on
| fiat between each wide plat; and in not d
few costumes is noted an entire absence of
color the front consisting of a false skirt
! with velvet plating around the bottom,
and an extremely long tunic draped in soft
upright folds, and Joined to the straight
waterfall draping in the back.
! There we're lately displayed at q fashion
! able importing house in this city number
OF exceptionally elegant wraps for the fall
and winter. The styles in long and short
! garments were about equally divided, the
new creations in the former appearing in
such grace of form and outline, and FASH
Toned Of such novel and elegant materials
as to re-eStablish them in any favor they
may have lost for a season. Velvet-fgured
wool goods, plush. bengaline, velvet bro
caded Ottoman silk, combined with plain
| velvet, satin duchess and black Victoria
! silk, were used for these, and also for the
dressy Visites and other short CONNECTIONS
| Among the exclusive" STYLES this season
| are long Spanish wraps made of black bro
caded satin, richly lined and decorated.
4 One brought by returned tourist from
| Paris is made of -brocaded Ottoman
silk, lined with pale primrose surah, and
| trimmed with cascades of genuine old
I Spanish lace eight inches wide, headed by
bands-of massive iet-work if floral designs.
A short wrap in visite shape is made of
| black Sicihenne, trimmed with silk, gimp
and chenille bands, and lined with Bur
! gnndy red satin. Down the front are
handsome clasps of real silver in filigree.
Cheyiot is largely imported this season.
and in diversity of handsome designs.
In character it closely resembles goods of
the same name brought ont for gentlemen's
wear, but the former are lighter in texture.
and intermjngled with other fabrics like
chenille, silk, velvet, ETC., and are also
more diversified in coloring These goods
are first choices with many ladies in select
ing fabrics Tor tailor costumes although
the beauty and variety in wooden fabrics of
every description have rarely, if ever, been
equaled IN the history of trade silks sat
ms. velvets, and, indeed, almost every sort
of rich dress fabrics having given place to
these materials for utility and street wear.
There is a certain furore for the bourettes
styled frise," and shaggy, curled Yoolens,
but the present enthusiasm is not likely to
last. These eccentricities in fabrics are
adopted generally by those who can afford
to seize upon any passing fancy, to discard
it quickly for something else more attrac-
tive. But the most conservative people
rarely take up with high novelties" the
first season, if, indeed, they ever do. Ladies
Of quiet taste who seek change find it in
the new cameps-hair suitings fiecled with
tiny velvet dots, fine hair stripes and
checked goods for plisse costumes, satin
soliels, chuddahs and vigognes in broche
effects. and host of other stylish and LADY,