Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-03-14
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written .fo, The Herald By "Leone
SPRING STYLES.

SPRING STYLES.
The latest modes for spring are varie,
and more beautiful in design than fash
ion has favored us with for months. :
They are SO numerous as to be almos
bewildering, and to those who can onl
afford few dresses, it is a perplexinI
question as to how you want them.-
every new fashion sheet bringin,
something that one likes little bette
still than any they We yet seen. Its yer,
much like turning woman Ioos
among room full of new goods, with
limited pocket book and unlimited de
sire.
The trimming of the spring and sum
mer is lace and laces. The wool guipe
laces, known as angora laces' 1--WE used t,
call it s yak lacey are now seen no
merely in trimming widths, but in Skin
| fronts that are half ward or three
fourths of a yard in depth, with a scol
loped lower edge and plain selvedge a
the top. These are used over WOO
| fabrics, and trim up beautifully al
transparents, just as beaded lac,
fronts have been over the silks and SATIN
that are now being replaced by WOO
goods, even for the dressiest of costumes
Sometime this lace front is Of the colol
of the wool dress, and sometimes it il
| in contrast with it, especially in evening
dresses. Thus cream colored wool lace
will trim brown woolens of darker tone
reseda cashmere will have reseda lace
and black will have black angora lace
which may be made more gay by placing
bright poppy red wool under the lace
and thus displaying to better advantage
its open work pattern.
Some of the very dressy costumes are
made entirely of wool lace over colored
satin. The skirt has fiounce of lace
nearly yard deep gathered around it
and the drapery is made of similar
flounce gathered to the belt, falling
straight in front and back and turned uI
in revers on the sides. The basque has
this lace cut up in seams as other ma
terials are, and put over satin lining.
Black cashmere and camels hair dress
es are made with short basque and the
Greek apron overskirt, and all the visi
BILE parts of the lower skirt are covered
with ruffles of this lace. Sometimes a
single deep fiounce of this lace extends
all around the lower shirt, the wool
basque and overskirt, or the polenaise
will then be made quite short.
A single frill of this lace is gathered
to one edge of the front of the basque,
and crosswise frin is put on the middle
forms of the back to make bouffani
basque. Loops of satin or MORE ribbon
are placed among these frills.
Both basques and polenaise are seen
on the new dresses, and afeature of each
is the real or simulated vest, which is
seen in varied shapes.
The most popular design is the oval
vest or plastron, which is formed by clos
ing the basque at the throat, allowing il
to fall open by being drawn back on the
bust, and bringing it together again al
the waist line. This may be varied by
having shorter oval opening extending
only to the top of the darts. Another
arrangement for the front of the basque
is square gathered plastron set under
meath, and extending from the collar to
the darts, this square is bordered by
passamenterie or any trimming that is
used on the costume.
The sloping basques with under vests
are still worn.
Polenaise are very long and of several
shapes in front either with or without a
vest, and falling open from the waist
line down. The back, on the contrary,
is very full from the tournure down
ward, and can dispense with all 6 bunch
ing " up. If it is found to not be full
enough, wide sash or scarf ribbon is
added there in long loops with short
ends. and this broad ribbon passes around
the hips if they are found to be toe
slight.
In French dresses there is tendency
towards palmer skirts, that is without
fiounces, and the long draperies are re.
peated alike in simple and elegant cos
tunes. The plain corsage is also shown,
with fiat fronts, short sides, and in
most cases smooth backs, plain over the
hustle. To many of the latter princesse
effect is given by punching the skirt full.
ness above the edge of the corsage.
JERSEYS.
JERSEYS seem to have become STABLE
article, and are brought out in improved
shapes and new trimmings every season.
Jerseys are now made up of wool goods
and when a perfect fit, are considered
more stylish than the silk beaded elabor.
ate affairs. The newest shapes are much
shorter than those worn in the winter
and like other garments are shorter be-
hind than in front. They are fitted with
all the seams of basque, in some cases
while in others the front darts are omit
ted and vest is inserted in sloped seams
that shape the jacket to the figure.
For plain wear dark Jerseys are trim.
med with white hurcules braid with q
belt attached, also trimmed with braid
More dressy Jerseys have vests of velvet
with sontache braid, and rows of narrow
ribbon are placed lengthwise along the
edge of the garment, ending in fiots and
loops and ends at the front and back OF
the Jersey.