The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1885-06-29
FASHIONS.
What to Wear and How to Wear 1t.

[Paris Correspondent of Cassell's Magazinel
Tailors are bringing in the Norfolk jacket
again, but only with one box-plait on each
side, and by no means full or loose, but close
ly plated to the figure it Is, no doubt, more
becoming, but loses its original virtue Of
ease If, however, you are bent on a long
railway journey, let me recommend you an
ulster just brought out, with drawing g-string
at the back of the waist, an extra length
formed into a. sort of muff at the waist in
front; perfectly easy, warm, and light, with
few fastenings, so that it can be slipped on
and off in a minute. The eapote Of cloth is
stilltworn to match, otherwise close-ftting
hats have quite gone out, and now the sea-
sons novelties are all very high in the crown
and narrow in the brim. They may be
trimmed in almost any manner that displays
the garniture great deal Colored straws
are worn; and also velvet covered hats, and
others covered all over with plain eeru or
gold embroidered net or muslin. Three os-
trich plumes are placed at the side, and quite
novelty are hats with sort of ear-like
opening at one side Of the brim and crown,
into which the cluster of feathers sets.
Nearly every bonnet is either embroidered
in gold or displays the mousse tone-often
the two combined, for they do blend well.
The shapes of the bonnets set Closer to the
face, and notice that the strings are gener-
ally made up into bows beneath the chin,
and have not often long ends. But the flow
ers or feathers are placed so high and jaunti-
ly above the face, that apparently there is
an inclination to return to the old spoon
form. A little close cluster of flowers is new
er now seen on a French bonnet; the buds,
the leaves, and the blooms all stand up sim
gly, as though they were growing. FLOWERS
are more used than feathers.
From millinery it seems natural to turn to
the etceteras of dress. Very smart and trim
they are straight, made in velvet, embroider-
ed in gold with just double row on the bias
Of gauze or muslin by way of finish inside
The sO-called Byzantine gauze is applied in
the same way, printed in all kinds of colors,
red velvet always being the foundation The
same form of collar is also made OF rows OF
pearl beads edged with gold beads and jet
beads. They can be fastened over any dress
collar, and are very smart and trim. Swiss
felts, made in velvet and plain silks, are
trimmed and bordered with pearls.
The most dainty aprons are made in EN-
broidered muslin and lace, with bibs and rib
bon braces carried on to the shoulders, gauze
ribbon, just such as was worn fifty years
ago. having the preference over every other.
The new paraS0ls are large, and have curl
GUS handles carved with birds and animals,
| the new shot silk en- tout cas-, with colored
| borders, rejoicing in papier-mache handles,
matching in tone and taking the form Of very
large rings. Eeru and black parasols are
more used than any other, which Is fortunate,
| for they harmonize with all dresses Ecru
muslin parasols with gold ribs are novelty.
There is the Mandaris shape, which is wide
and fiat, like a Japanese parasol; and the
| Pagoda, raised in the center after the manner
| of a Pagoda. They are very much trimmed,
lace being arranged even on the inside, and
! full looped bows on the outside. Transpar-
ent black parasols are still used, but far
more often are lined with color such as
red which shows them off better.
| The beads that are worn just now would
require chapter to themselves. Even pearls
are to be had in all colorings. Lead beads
are the newest and are literally intermixed
| with jet. | have seen many applied to man
ties. These are much shorter and smaller
than heretofore; they come we'll up to the
neck in straight band without any ruch-
| ings, style by far the most becoming to
| slender throats. Colored plush and velvet
are worn, even this summer time, almost as
much as Sicilienne. The beading is carried
| down the back seams, and sometimes covers
the back; two or more lines of the same ap-
| pear in front, and the sleeves have often hor-
| iZontal bands of beading, unbecoming as
| rule. Bronze and lead beads are combined
| on some of the new shapes, and electric blue
A cheap and thoroughly useful mantle is
made of Yak lace and velvet, with hood at
the back and divided sleeves. 1t is some
what of the jacket form, and for young la
| dies especially there is decided inclination
| to return to the short, close-ftting, useful
black silk jackets Of years ago. The cloth
jackets have pretty waistcoats of contrasting
cOOrs.
have seen a number of frocks made lately
in canvas CLOTH and there is nothing, IL well
selected, that wears better. 1t runs the
Benedictine cloth hard; this latter is like
bunting. There is much variety in canvas;
it displays stripes of plain or mixed velvet,
such as grass-green and terra Gotta and open
work stripes and plain velvet stripes blend
ed WOrsted lace is the universal trimming
with it, and so wonderfully has this class of
lace taken hold of public opinion that it is
made sufficiently wide for the fronts Of
dresses. In Paris beige is the tone most af-
feeted in this lace; but it is to be had in all
colorings and in two tones blended, such as
red and blue, brown and ecru.
The Senorita jacket, under new name, is
again introduced 1t is sleeveless, with high
epaulettes is cut up in the centre of the back,
but fits the throat closely, and is generally
so betrimmed with beads that no foundation
is necessary; it is most comfortable addi-
ton to either high or low bodice, making
the one more dressy, the other less so. Col
larettes of embroidered lace and velvet, COM
ing well to the shoulder, answer the same
purpose.