Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-11-14
THE MID-AUTUMN FASHIONS

FLUSH VELVET AND wooI-wHITE FOR WIN
TEk-SILk GLoyEs-TRICor CLOTH SUITS, ETC
SOME OF THE NEW SASH RIBBONS have
wlue stripes showing rough surface which
cioseiy resembles astrakhan.
EVENING AND DINNER DRESSES are made
win oodices cut low in a point both in front
anu al the back, but young ladies generally
wear some sort of thin chemisette inside.
ANOTHER NEW FABRIC is a SORT of wooden
push with long pile, called herisson This is
used ike astrakhan for understands, Jackets
ugly. ' - a-'' A'''' anu
PLAIN, STRAIGHT SKIRTS OF PLUSH, with
possibly panal of brocade of suitable color,
are combined with a plain basque having
Drocaoe vest and plain laeing of medium-sized
INGENUITY COULD SCARCELY DEVISE ANY
THING more elegant and elaborate in garni-
lures than the app!iques, passementeries. and
special dress ornaments in silkcord bead-work
this season.
THE CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE of the pres
ent fashions is perpetual change in the midst of
apparent stagnation. There no marked
novelties to record; but though the general out
lines remain the same as for several years past,
the details vary in each individual toilette.
MANY PLUSH RIBBONS are made for trim
ming dresses of light silken tissues. Plush,
partially abandoned for "a time, is again in high
favor, and serves for all sorts of uses-bands
4 -,
small and large capes, mantles, and even shoes.
NULL EMBROIDERED TIES are again popular,
and the pretty new scarfends are finished in
many dainty ways in hemstitching, tucks,
French needlework, delicate coIored embroide-
rleS, lace and Insertions. both wide and narrow.
Others are simple polka-dotted.
A Brown HOTEsPUN DRESS has the front
and panels of WOODEN brocade. The front
drapery is arranged scarf fashion, and the back
drapery is half broeade and half homespun.
exprh f,ffB he'll,
cade and the sleeves have wide cuffs of it.
New Wells To WEAR WITH SMALL BoNNErs
revive the old mask shapes with rounded
fronts and poiated ends. The lower edge is seal
loped, and the very light net may be plain or
the color of the bonnet with which it is worn,
whether white. red. gray, brown, or black
A NOVELTY WORTHY OF NOTICE is the use of
silk gloves for winter wear. This is an English
style. French women wore formerly these
gloves in light shades, but only during the sum-
'mer season and for dreSsy occasions They
like kid gloves very long, without buttons and
In all shades. Seal and gray are the favored
colors for winter use.
ROUND HATS ARE SHOWN IN GREAT VARIE-
TY and most attractive styles. The crowns are
high ana square. and the trimmings massed
directly in the front and extend as far above
the crown as the nature OF the materials en-
piOyed will permit Ten Gr twelve inches is not
an unusual height for the hat and trim mings TO
tower above the forehead
ONE OF THE Fashions OF THE DAY. which
is something more than f;ishion-almost
craze, indeed-is passementerie. From plain
cord or cords simply tied in large knots like q
Tiar girdle. 10 plaques intricateIy wrought
as the richest laccS. all sorts ana kinds rep
resented. Ii is worn ali over even mt the neck
for a brooch and at the belt for buckle.
y SIMPLE AND NEW WAY of finishing the
back forms Of basques is to shape them in four
scallopS one in each form, and line them with
satin. Below these are two larger scallops gath
cred a: the top and sewed underneath the two
middle ScaliopS OF the four forms. In other
basqueS, especially those OF velvet, only two
scallops are seen, one in each Of the middle
forms of the back.
As REGARDS THE BUsrI.E crinoline as it
was formerly called, il must be confessed that
skirts have been made with two rows OF steel
springs ali around the bottom. in addition 10
the usual touTnure springs in the back. So
much Tor candor; in justice it may be added
that up to the time of writing they have been
almost unanimously rejected.
GROUP OF THREE LARGE BUTTONS on each
side OF the corSase, and OF six or eight on the
skirt on the lengthwise pleats panels at the
sides, is very fashionable on wool or velvet cos
tunes. These are fat metallic buttons with
raised figures or flowers, and chosen in
keeping with the color of the dress; those OF
gray shades OF steel or silver and the copper
and bronZed hues are most used.
SKIRTS are almost identical with those of last
year; at most a few ladies, thrsting for novelty,
trim them with a GaiGyeuse. which. instead of
being OF pleated white muslin. is made of wool
or silk according To tine material used in the
Dress. of one of the colors prevailing therein.
Otherwise, as far as concerns the various COM
binaticnS OF skirts, whether draped. or pleated
ut the waist, made with panels tabiiers, etc.
everything. in short. Is worn.
JACKETS OF ALL IMAGINABLE KINDS are i'm
vogue. But here IL is necessary TO distinguish
between tine jacket which takes the place OF a
wrap tor street wear and tine jacket corsage.
The Jacket proper IS longer. less trimmed, and
Jacket for the hojI-e. the latter may assume
any shape. and assimisites all trimmings from
beading in wood, lead or jet, to embroidery in
SILK, chenille or gold.
VERY DEEssY COSTUMES are made wholly of
wool net over colo-ed satin. One stylish dress
Or =.eam white guipure fiouncing lace wrought
with dark red chenille and lines of real gold
thread ) transparent over u skirt at poppy red
sa-in. The basque is formed of narrower lace
oftnc same design cut up into shape; a> dress
fabrics are and made mp over a satin lining. u
dark red collar. and rcverS- Deep velvet cuffs
and q Spanish girdie complete the waist
THE FASHIONS THIS SEASON tend more and
more 10 ample iuIIness in the back long apron
overdresses and sash effects upon every class of
toilet these styles being sought to the eXcu-
SION of tine long popular pannieT effects. Ples,ts.
buckles and clasps, heavy draping cords and
silk pendants loaded fronts ard panels are
among the accessories of general adoption
which help to enrich the handsome costumes OF
this fall.
THE PHINC.cssF DRESS is 20 he revived in a
new shape This dress. it is well known, is
high, and = made with the waist and skirt in
one piece. But il will now he worn with "a sort
OF Turkish redingote over and opening upon it,
often without sleeves, the sleeves Of the under
dress taking their place and fastened at the
neck and waist by large plaques of metal or
passenenteTie- The upper dress always differs
from the under one, and may be OF velvet
while the latter is silk, the reverse being equally
often the case.
THE STRIPED NELyErs, brocaded terry vel
vet, AMI satin mixtures. frise goods interviewer
with plush. dark-coiored satins with shot and
dotted surfaces an1 the new hayadere yeIoU-
tInc,. al are used 10 revaTDp dresses OF black
satin. black or deep-hued silks, and plain fine
WOO ems in Sucn u manner a. To render them
uDrecOgIiZaDle; these novel and stylish addi-
tons III the shape of piasirons and tablier
fr ais. panels. vests and pelerines transforming
them into rich costumes. quite handsome
enough tor any ordinary occasion.
BLACK understands to wear next the dress
will L. as generally used this winter as black
stockings now are Colored skirts are shown
especially dark red and blue skirts but two
tnlrds OF those seen in the shops black.
These come in ali qualities from tine cloth
alpaca, and farmer - satin skirts up To- those OF
black satin with nounccs OF black wool lace or
o. the silk spanish iaces the Latter furnish
with "a pad hustle and stcelS. and so away with
the necessity of adding these To- each dress; but
palmer skirts are simply rored To the figure in
front ana on tine sides. with more iuliness be-