Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-04-04

HOunce OF the silk in clustered or pain
knife peatings, the lace falling over the
top, but in others the folds of lace extends
to the foot of the silk foundation at the
back, the il0unce protecting only the
beaded edge of the front.
Among the novelties in materials are
line beautiful woods, accompanied by Ilus-
tered stripes in shaded velvet as trim
ming. Used as a straight bordering it
looks like blanket, and care must be
used to avoid this effect. The best mod
lstes arrange the stripes in diagonal lines
or make panels of them, with, perhaps,
straight strip across the lower front, and
the stripes put together to form narrow
vest They are also used for the cuffs and
standing collars, but as the width admits
OF only two of the stripes being used Tor
! these purposes they can be put on straight
without detriment.
The embroidered costumes reappear,
and consist of very deep tiOuncing,
which, by edging with u five or seven inch
knife pleating, can be used for the entire
skirt. The peating Is made from the
| PLAIN material used for the bodice and
apron or nip drapery-twO widths of en-
broidered trimming to match being en-
| plOyed Tor the completion Of these parts of
| the costume.
BEAUTIFUL TROUSSEAU.
An imported trOusseau, recently arrived
from Paris, copies in some respects that
of Miss Eva Mackay's. and is considered
/ by far the most beautiful and uncommon
| bridal outfit ever seen here. The chem
ises Of tiue linen cambria are finished in
the same way, without hem, band or
sleeve, the shape easily fitting the body
and the edges cut in shell pattern and eX-
/ quisitely embroidered at the foot as well
as at the neck and sleeves. Below this
testooning upon some are ruilles of eX-
| quisite Vaienciennes lace while others are
ornamented with the embroidery alone.
Half dozen of the night dresses are in
white sCrah, with Valencienues lace
| trimming and much fine embroidery.
| Each one has Vatican plait in the back,
1 from the neck to the foot.
The cambria gowns are Ornamented
! with quantities of delicate tucking and
needle work, but no lace. Among the
| features of the trOusseau are short cos
/ tunes of white and pale brown etamine,
| the fronts covered with new fine wooden
| guipure, made like the beaded fronts, the
| full backs Of skirts, and the bodies of a
combination fabric embroidered in a
small, what might be called ''cOmbina-
| ton" figure.
There were many handsome short
/ dresses-One Of fine white cloth trimmed
with silver, and one of cream embroidered
with pale gold in an all-Over Arabesque
pattern upon the jacket, and a wide side
/ panel of the skirt. Every costume was
accompanied by its hat or bonnet to
match, and, it was said, by silken hose
and other details.
SPRING WRAPS.
There is nothing new in the small jetted
and cloth wraps, imported or manufac-
tured, Tor spring wear. They are very
/ dressv-eitber covered all over with jet or
have jetted sleeves, and have .draperies of
lace. The lace is not real even upon
wraps at $50 and 500 each, but clever
imitation OF Chantiily, the Yeining and
outlining only being a little more wiry
The body part of the wraps is very small,
and forms either a Visite or mantelet, but
flow OF lace at the back and often upon
the shoulders, sometimes forming ilOunced
| sleeves, adds to the appearance OF size.
/ There are also elegant little wraps made
| of a rich and lustIOus black sir and
| trimmed with fine embroderies Of silk
and jet and bordering of rutlled lace. The
jetted grenadines, made in the piece, are
| applied both to wraps as sleeves or entire,
and also to dresses. When used for
wraps the body part is often made of dull
satin or satin rhadames. Satin is to be
used in conjunction with jetted lace and
grenadIne very largely for elegant COS
tunes, the dressmakers say.
The cloth wraps are not left out by any
means, but they are mainly in ecru tints
/ with trimming of chenille fringe or passe-
menteries studded with pendant chenille
! balls. These are a delusiOn and snare.
! They drop, in more senses than one, and
leave little ends hanging fOrlOrn.
AN INAUGURATION BALL.
We hear much of the eXtravagances of
administrations. Perhaps it would some
times be as well to consider their ecOno-
mics, where they come in and the effect
they have upon our representation as a
people. II is perhaps to be expected that
! in the capital of a nation like ours
! poverty shOuld elbow aflluence, the man
sion face the modest tWO-story dwelling
| or look sideways upon poverty, decent or
united with squalor, as the case may be.
| 1t is also quite natural that at the inau-
! guratiOn bail of new administration
which represents the people of all sec
| tions and conditions, that coats
I the worse for wear, rusty boards. and
red cotton pocket handkerchiefs should
! flourish in company with line linen and
! broadeOth. One may even excuse the
| linen duster and the bonnet, the thick
! boots and the dust, the faces innocent OF
| powder but shining with soap, and the
/ bows, the ruilles, the intention to do honor
| to the occasion in gloves Of tSyO and pos
| slbly three) buttons SO tight that these
/ treacherous fastenlngs burst off in trying
to bring them together In all this one
/ feels a certain pride. In no other coun-
/ try could such widely diversified elements
/ be brought INTO living contact. In no
other has one so good right 10 be and to
/ ENJOY as the other.
But what can be said or thought Of the
/ pitiful meanness of a government that
| upon the one occasion when 10 has an
opportunity to extend hospitality % those
who support it, and those who add to its
dignity by their countenance and recOg-
milton, fails TO realize It's position and
wrangles and squabbles over every petty
item Of expenditure, or is willing 10 dis
credit u whole people 10 crafty petty per-
sonal sptes? The decorations Of the ball
room were handsome 50 far as flowers
were concerned, though not remarkably
so; but all the legations were cOnspicu-
Gus by their absence. IL was "a family
party. Those Of the poor relations who
could pay for "a ticket were allowed to
come; but as few cOmplimentaries were
sent as possible. The foreign ministers
received them, but the members of their
different legations, the attaches, who had
a right to expect SO much Of attention
and recognition, and who would have
added splend0r and variety to the scene
by their gay uniforms and orders, were
none Of them invited, simply on the score
OF economy. The United states, with re-
sources unbounded, with money in It's cOt-
iers that IL does not know what 10 do with,
frets and fumes over a few dollars OF eX-
pense for its grand inauguration ball, and