The Indianapolis sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis, Ind.) 1880-1904, 1885-03-08
Written for the Sunday Sentinel.
SOUTH AMERICAN ALTA.


The Para N a-Haekdriver's Cord na-Rail-
reading The People-San edro,etc.
CATAMARcA, Dec. 81, 1SS4.-Considering
the terminus, the road from Buenos Ayres to
Catamarca can hardly be clsssed with the
straight and narrow way; nevertheless the
manner OF reaching the secluded capital OF
this remote province, the views on the jour
ney, aud the trials that bsset the weary tray
eler are entitled to some notice. left the
National capital three O'Clock p. ~, one
day about the middle of September. The
rainy season was not yet over. The country
appeared vast swamp, and the pampas
grass which has ever been associated with
my idea OF these particular South American
PLANES was nowhere visible As the rail.
road was very low was con stantly fearing
the train would be swsmped, and was heart
lily glad when, near sunset, the change was
made from the cars to the stea mer at Camp
ava, landing on the Parana River seventy
miles to the north west OF Blenos Ayres.
The views on the river, composed chiefly
of low muddy banks which hide the low
plains beyond, are nything bat picturesque,
and leave the traveller little reason to regret
making the trip at night. About
nine O'Clock next morning the boat arrives
at Rosario. The Parana, including all its
many channels, is said to be thirty miles
wide at this point. and the number OF yes
sells in sight indicate seaport of no little
Importance. The hack drivers at the land
ing-mostly Italians-are worse than those
of Niagara. IL that be possible They talk
and gestlculste in an incomprehensible
manner, and make the stranger feel that in
some way he has injured them; but how.
ever difficult it may be for the stranger to
understand them and their isrgon OF Italian
and Spanish, they seem TO possess almost
Isuperhuman power in getting possession of
the stranger aud his baggage and In knowing
exactly where he wants To 20 and-how. 30
far as sight seeing is concerned until six
o'clock the following day, the hour for the
departure of the morning train for the in
terror, affords ample time. Rosario Is the
largest city in the Province of Santa Fe and
third in size III the Republic with q popula-
ton of nearly 10000 A flight of two or
three steps at the corners and crossings of
some of the streets, result of grading after
the sidewalks were laid, neither adds to the
beauty of the town nor the comfort of the
pedestrian. Neither being the capital of the
province nor the seat OF bshopric, il can
not boast of the number of fine buildings
church, national, and provincial-thst
many towns of less size possess. In fact its
chief attraction lies in its commercial ad
vantages, derived from its location on the
Parana. its railroad connection with the In
terror, and its surrounding valuable estan-
cias" Leaving by the morning train gives
an opportunity OF seeing some of these ex
Ea.o at. Ca L..
cattle aud grass, with here and there dwell.
ling. The air is delightful, but as the day
advances, the light becomes painful to the
eyes, and Ii is quite painful to keep up till
the breakfast hour-eleven O'Clock. (In any
and all parts of this country, it verges on the
impossible 10 get anything TO eat-except
coffee and q roll-beiore eieven.) 1t is said
that good repast is set before the hungry
traveller at this station. liz may be for some
people. bat / don't believe q North Ameri
can would ever be tempted to eat TOO much
there. The bountiful repast above men
toned concluded, the cars az ain in motion,
after assuring oneself that there is
nothing To be seen but cattle and grass the
best thing to do is to adopt the custom Of
which is to take COM
Portable position IAN impossibility)
and sleep another impossibility)
until the arrival of the train at Oordova
Here both traveller and train put IN for the
night. Cordova, very interesting city,
with a population of forty thousand, il one
of the oldest cities in the Republic. having
been founded in 1873. Among numerous At
fractions it boasts of q university older than
Harvard, the National Observatory, and q
beautiful cathedral IN the Byzantine style
From the railroad going north, fine view
OF the town can be had. Its situation on the
hillside, the plazss, the one story houses
with queer tile roofs, the many churches
and converts with their towers and glittering
domes surmounted by crosses, the blue hills
or rather mountains OF Cordova not far dis
tant forming background, altogether make
very pleasing picture; and the leasurely
traveller does not regret the several days delay
It at casts his lot in such pleasant places
From this point TO Tucuman, the present
terminus of the road, there are but two
trains week. A hot dusty, dreary ride all
day shut up in one of those inconvenient
English apartment cars. in the morning
through uncultivated lands that produce an
unlimited quantity OF the slgaroos and the
cactus OF different species: in the afternoo
over saline plains As the sun rises higher
and higher and the light becomes more in
tense, one by one the blinds are lowered,
and the car becomss apparently . sleeping
car.
Recreo 10 Joy fully welcomed. The train
lie switched Of into the woods for the night
and the tired, hungry traveller invaribly en-.
tOya th0 mlnerablV moor food And limftad Ar.