Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1885-07-11
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald by " Leone. .
GATHERED WAISTS.

GATHERED WAISTS.
Gathered waists are the latest in all
thin fabrics and light summer silks. The
most dressy of the gathered waists is the
shirred BASQUE with the front and middle
back forms shirred at the neck, and
again at the waist line.
The collar is very high and close about
the throat, and the slight shirring is just
below it, consisting of not more than three
or four rows close together at the line
of the waist in front there are many rows
of shirring, while the back has only a
few rows extending between the seams
of the side FERNS. The middle back
forms are not separated by seam up the
middle, but are cut in one piece, in the
old fashioned way. The lining of mus,
lin, or wash dresses, is cut low in the
neck, either round or square, and there
are short cap sleeves set in the armholes.
An edge of narrow lace, valencienes
for light fabrics, and black French lace
for darker dresses edges the neck and
sleeves of the lining.
Sometimes the basque is in fan shape,
with the fullness of the front carried back
along the shoulder seams. In others the
shirring is confined to the top of the bas-
que, while fine pleats or tucks are laid at
the waist line. and for some distance
above it.
The round belted waist is made in var
ious ways, the simplest and most popular
being that with simple row of gather
ing in the front and back where it is at
tached to the belt. This is made without
lining, and worn over prettily trimm-
ed corset cover.
PRACTICAL HINTS.
The foundation skirts of dresses must
be narrow in order to be sty lish. II is q
mistake to make the back Of this founda-
ton skirt as wide as the outside, and
gives it very ungraceful effect. Two
yards and fourth of yard is the great
est width of short walking dresses.
Tucked skirts of wooden dresses are
now made without any foundation skirts,
with merely deep facing, and are light
and pleasant for summer wear.
The full double width of the fabrics is
used for the back breadths on each side
of this is narrow side gore, between
these is the front breadth about FIVE
eighths of yard wide at the foot, and
narrowed at the top by two or three darts
taken deep enough to make it fit smooth
| across the wearer. This is cut sufficient
ly long to allow eight or ten tucks, each
two inches wide being taken up. The
lowest tuck is not exactly at the foot, but
falls upon fine knife-pleating chat drops
as low as the skirt binding, and forms a
pretty finish. All the fullness is gathered
or pleated into the back of the belt, ex-
tending an eighth of yard each side of
the placket opening behind.
Two or three short set of tapes sewed
to the side cores, tie behind and hold the
front and sides in place. To finish this
is short apron drapery in front, sewed
in with the belt of the lower skirt, and
behind there is sash drapery made of
two uneven loops and ends of the wool
goods taken lengthwise about half yard
wide, and finished with hem and tucks.
The waist to such dress has length
wise narrow tucks in front and behind,
and is fitted smoothly over the lining
and stitched across the waist line to dis
pense with belt. The fronts between
these tucks are each left plain, are about
three inches wide, and when Tapped
double they represent vest, which is
completed by row of small buttons
down each side.
Wide ribbons are used for panels as
well as sashes, and are also arranged
across dress fronts. When worn as sashes |
they reach very low, almost touching the |
bottom of the dress skirt.
A pretty modification Of the Norfolk |
jacket has been introduced. Instead of |
a loose easy fit, it is snugly pleated to !
the figure.
Tho orssssd scarf drapsrisa .-a SAN
used on thin goods.
The back drapery is made of two long
breadths laid in bouffant puffs at the top,
and widened below by fan pleating set
in under the puff. At the foot on the
foundation skirt is narrow pleated frill
of the material on which the pleats and
dfapery fall, almost concealing it.
Corsage boquets are worn very large
and are placed in the centre of the bosom.
PLAIN satteens, trimmed with velvet of
the same shade, make very pretty and
effective costumes.
Short skirts are worn almost exclusive
ly.
Lace flowers are worn on grenadine
dresses.
AS local rage the poke " hat has
precedence, along with cream and white
dresses.
The Marquise Catogan style of couture
is in favor in Paris. 1t is worn low on
the neck, and is formed of light fluffy
loops of hair. LEONE.