Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1885-09-17
OUR NEW YORK LETTER
RosAIIND MAYS TALK ABOUT
THE Fashions.
Fall Mininery-New Dress Goods
Winter Laces.

Fall MiIIinery-New Dress Goods
Winter Iaces.
Special Correspondence Of Gazette and Journal
NEW YonK, Sept. 10.-A heavy stiffness
or a stiff heayiness will characterize thu
orthodox New York winter bonnet. No
bonnets alone, but hits; not bonnets ant
hats alone, but trimmings; and the 'swee
attractive grace" of Milton's ideal woman
will be lost among modern plushes, feltt
and feathers. The heroine of to-day will
be aggressive, bristling. The heaviness
of plush made hat or bonnet needs nc
discourse of mine to set it forth, while
felts are certainly not ethereal. On these
foundations come adornments, among
which beads play most important role.
Imitation amber beads are as
large as medium-sized buttons, flat
and sometimes set about all over
at short intervals. Churchly pre-
cincts have been invaded, qpd rosary
beads, diverted from their original pur-
pose, now variegate surfaces in fashion
ably millinery in almost any way seen fit
often placed around the edges of brims
or arranged in fanciful patterns. Small
beads of ordinary make are used to
stiffen out long leaves, and numerous are
the wire limitations of ferns and kindred
folinge where small, thickly set beads
render briery that which nature made
yielding. Following out this idea, we
observe feathers continually added to,
by beaded aigrettes standing upright or
by metal quiverings which glitter vari-
ously hued.
RIBBONS
Are frequently so inlaid by beads, that they
lose distinctive character and become
galloons. Impossible to bunch, they
must lie fiat Material is as heavily
adorned or where beads do not appear.
the stiffness of Int rlacing metal threads
is seen, or d close embroidery that with
near woven tracings, causes desirable
heayiness. In keeping with prevailing
thoughts in millinery are wooden ribbons
new departure. Many of
these show the dull colored summer
stripes, but with dark foundation of
wool in place of canvas, while the sum-
mer idea of scarfs is again and frequently
repeated. Some wooden ribbons, or
rather galloons, are almost ruglike in thick
ness as for example, where a rosary bead
as large as a small pea, alternates with
square in weaving. The bead does not
stand out but peeps up from its enclosing
bed. Such are ribbons yet ribbons are
not always such. Satin ribbon with
reverse OF velvet will be constantly seen,
while the satin ribbons with picot edge
form large element in winter importa-
tions. They appear as strings or in stiff
loopings on the front of bonnets and hats
where they add to the upright feather
with its bristling ends of bead or metal.
Feathers are extremely fanciful and arti-
icial as they are fanciful. Nature
has little TO say except perhaps
where the brilliancy of tho humming bird
defics defacement, so these bright
plumaged creatures are set at the base
Of something taller which is dyed to
match stylish production of the loom.
Wings are in high repute because in
keeping with the thought of the day, but
entire birds are nearly absent as well
likewise MS low lying bands. Ostrich
plumage comes in for n high if not very
popular position, but here again native
'oftness yields to aggressiveness. Tips
lro made to nod defiance in triple lunches
set in front or the sweep of n long plume
seems to say, "Look and reverence my
,ostliness."
THE BONNET
IL so far, of small dimension, close at the
lides and rising moderately high. In
net, very much of n pressed-in capote,
but M we are getting tired OF that word,
We now begin to say ''princessc" in place
1f it. Hats admit of great boldness.
Tue large high crown invites display, and
)f course there are those who will |
embrace the opportunity. Voritable ex-
libitions of all tho stiff things mentioned |
lbove will be seen against tho high crown
" II background, upright feathers wire |
md bead formed leaves, combined with |
ormnl ribbon loopingG, while long pins |
tuck through will add severity and hinder |
my possible grace. Grace is possible to |
/ long plume but even this seems now 10 |
peak II language foreign to itself. The |
close princesse hnts of course do not give
similar chances, but small MS is the room,
much is made of il, and the fronts bristlc |
The market is full however,
If turbuns and modestly formed English |
Walking hats, These will have scope and |
while admitting of jauntincss, will forbid |
Dud showing of amy nature.
lAlIit iltsishH bOpDb.
The bellies trim walking boot, newly |
irightoncd by her tried and trilsty dress. |
ny, buttons Raven gloss, will find op-
for display this fall, because of |
ihUrt dresses dresses showing NlsO the |
prevalence of leading ideas in millinery |
md il is cnriOns indeed to notice how n
honght travels from one department to
'nOthcr, influencing all and bringing
lbout completeness. When, therefore, il
Is written TINT wool ribbons appear, the
prominence of wool costumes becomes II
iorrgone conclusion. Again, there is
similarity in texture and ms tho ribbons
md scuth nre cnnvnslike, SO do canvas
ike wooden goods hold high position
II tho market. Producing inuutiness
Turing summer, there il consequent
lnuntmesa Mt present, and still more 50
N broad woolen sashcs aro brought out TO
match hat scarfs. Tho heavy plushes for
serve moreover as n prelude TO |
plush IN costumes which this year comes
up full Of prestige, while as additional
of II sOught-for unanimity, are
rosary and other large bnnds set on tho |
iress in ways 10 match bonnets. |
throughout the domain of dress goods |
likewise, there is n seeking after hcavi- |
irSs. New woods are ruglike in thick |
ness, mud wrought i'll mixed patterns.
}uureiic dots afford heavy sprinl1liugs,
mi heecy surfaces produce a similnr |
result.
THE LAChs ..
'nr winter are made heavier aud closer |
linn those of the summer, not often
white, bnt in stylish colors and of wool |
,r silk, but MS silk lace is expensive and |
these ideas likely 10 he Temporary, the |
will invest i'll the cheaper wool |
fabric. II will be used lnvishly, covering
entire fronts and otherwise freely en-
ployed aud again may serve purposes
Df economy by hiding worn places.
But for the class who can
,fIord such outlay, the new silk laces open
up wide field Of beauty, chiefly in
Spanish patterns, but Irish aees in cream
md ecri will work in prettily as con-
trasts. Imitation French lace copies
designs and will constantly
serve ns u finish on black dresses, while
NJ sign Of the times, come white nets
printed in jnrdiniere designs for evening.
RosAIIND MAY.
Winder Hastings Dead.
A Rnltimnre glu aneninJ from, goI;u