Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-11-07

sOAol aseu "heh tney are unreYealed In the
grAceluI drOop and confusion of the folds,
sun sun Pnmngs, gathers and plaits, which
zen al the story, are common and in
arustlc; simple styles are made simply
ana those who cannot employ drapery in
an original and artistic manner, or pay
tnose who can, should make a virtue of
simplicity, and in this way maiRtain a
certain distinction of appearance, always
allied TO the highest fashion.
Inc interchange between Europe and
America is now so intimate and rapid
tnat dress, from the broad point OF view
mas become international and interchange
able. The novelties of a season appear
mere as soon as in London or Paris, in
iact many OF them are gotten up express
~ 1or this market, and are hardly seen in
London and Paris at all. 1t is very well
known that we run" things in this coun-
try "for all they are worth, - but only for
a very short time, and that after. they
nave been put through The gaInat we
never want to see them again. This tenn
peramental or constitutional peculiarly
more or less modities all that is done In
our behalf, and while acting as a stimu-
JUS to sensational styles OF a cheap and
not permanent character, deters those
VINO control the best and most permanent
things abroad from reeking loss and de-
terioration by shOrt-lived, popularity, a
hood OF 1mitations and future oblivion.
AUTUMN STYLEs-sUPERB AMERICAN
BROCADES.
Some autumn designs of home as well as
foreign manufacture, may, however, be
found suggestive and interesting and
there is one fact in connection with one
OF these which is worth recording. Beauti-
tul and rich and as are the brocaded stuffs
which come from France, the finest aud
most lovely in color and design which l
have seen, abroad or at home, Is OF Ameri-
can manufacture. 1t was made for hang
lngs, and the ground work is a wonder
fully delicate mixture of pale blue and
gold. Upon this are scattered short
double strings OF small coins, executed In
mixed threads of gold and silver, some
times one and sometimes the other pre-
ponderating, but always unwrought in
the groundwork, and the general tone
equalized by threads of gold and silver in
the spaces, so that its design is never
obvious, as II merely deposited upon the
surface. The design is made in several
different combinations of color, but none
that produce so charming an effect as that
described, and though intended for hang
Ings. would make a beautiful dress in the
style worn by Ellen Terry in the first act
of the Merchant of Venice" and by Miss
Anderson in the first and last acts of GAS
ordered by one of the most elegant women
in New York city, but it will have a front
OF satin embroidered with silver and gold,
and be more cOnventionalIZed than the
styles indicated as worn by the two great
artists.
1t may be said that stage dressing would
not suit the drawing-room, but that de-
ponds upon the kind of dressing we find
upon the stage. In the instance men,
~ H. IL Il.
beautiful, and graceful, better adapted to
the drawing-room than many seen there.
1t is not often admitted, but it is quite
true, nevertheless, that the costumes worn
by great artistes upon the stage are stud
led with care by some fashionable women,
and ideas often obtained which are APP
piled TO their own toilets, even if they do
not strictly "follOw cOpy' In their forma-
ton. 1t is not possible to alter greatly
the essentials of an elegant dress. The
materials OF which it is composed are
always the same under different forms
and in different textures, color, and CON-
binations, and the ''picture studies," on
and off the stage, during the past ten
years have infused the finest and most
picturesque element which has existed
into exclusive ''sOciety" dressing.
Brown, in different shades, is more used
than any other color this season, and the
two shades OF leather and seal brown are
united in coats, listers, jackets and some
of the prettiest of the taiiOr-made suits.
A pOlOnaise of seal-brOwn cloth is damped
upon one side with heavy cord over a
striped ottoman and beurette in vary
ing widths, in seal-brOwn, bottle green,
red and blue with hues of yellow. The
single pointed revers upon the point of
The bodice was faced with fawn-cOlor, and
ornamented with braided embroidery in
brown and gold, the cuffs and standing
collar repeated the color and design of the
revers. Another seal-brOwn dress had a
plain plush skirt, with a broad band
of brown astrachan, same shade, round
the bottom, and a coat with
plush vest, and coachman's cape,
bordered with narrow band of
the astrachan. A brown cloth tailor
made dress is b0X-plaited at the back,
belted at the side, and has fine clustered
flounce, with short apron in front. Be-
tween the boX-plaiting and the side plaits
are two straight bands of otter, and bands
of the same, edge the jacket and form cuffs
and standing collar. Long garments,
cloaks and ulsters are worn by ladies,
but Jackets are preferred for young
women. as they are 80 much more youth
full, and do not conceal or crush a pretty
walking dress. The new jackets have
high collars, a single reUerS turned back
from the throat, disclosing minute pOr-
ton OF the vest, which reappeaFs again
in two points below. This jacket is made
in dark blue, and cream, in two shades Of
brown, In red and white with gold Orna-
mentations, and in dark green and cream
with gold braidng.
LANCERS JACKETS AND HATS.
A well-known English house IN New
York has introduced among its autumn
novelties, jackets with hats TO match, the
arrangement OF trimmings as well as ma
terials harmOnizing IN every particular.
A Jacket known az the Seventeenth Lam
GERS is accompanied by a high cavalry hat,
with herons or "Officer's" plume, made
with ring. an exact copy in eyefydstail Of
true cavalry plume, I'm fact they are sup
piled according to especial order by an
English military manufacturer, ana cost
TO the house itself So and 50 each. Tie
hats are OF fine cloth. bordered with real
Astrachan and trimmed additionally with
doubled cords, passed three times round
the crown. The jacket Is cut high, with
standing collar and cuffs Of Astrachau,
and front of which may be OF white, red
or self-colOr, or lighter shade OF brown,
and upon which braided cords are fes-
TONED. The "Gendarme" hat Is turned
up in front and the Napoleon" is Of vel
vet; red, blue or green, with Astrachan,
turned up in wide, halt points all round,
upon soft, incented crown. A long au-
tumn ulster is OF brown cloth, with iawn
border, upon which are gold rings In line
gold wire, overlapping each other. The