Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-10-24
THE AUTUMN FASHIONS.
ovRRDREssEs AND vELyEr-ureH cor.IARs-
LUNCHEON NAPERY-BALLooNs vs. cLINGINe
skIks-CoLoRs IN cosru4Es-vIKrxR NAN
Tiles, ETC

LUNCHEON CONGRATULATIONS Va crINGINc
skiks-coLoRs IN cosrUNEs-vINrxR NAN
TIES, ETC
BONNET STRINGS are tied under the chin.
CLASPS AND BUTTONS of wood are richly
carved.
COLLARS. CUFFS, AND BELTS are made OF
beaded galloon.
coRIAL TULLE II embroidered with che.
ollie and beads
DkArERIEs ARE MARROW, one breadth Of the
material sufficing.
ENGLISH TAILoR-MADE SUITS have panels
and bindings OF fur
6UIfURE FRONTS are embroidered with ros-
ery beads and tinsel
OPKNwoRK EMBROIDERY on velvet il largely
used for millinery purposes.
SILK TULLE has fruit flower designs en-
oroidered In bright colors
CAAEL's HAIR ROBES Of the richest quality
are embroidered with rosary beads.
OxYDrzED SILVER PINS are very popular for
morning wear and for fastening shawls.
SILK SToCKINET HATS, covered with nets Of
stik cord of the same shade novelties.
label" BROOCHES are returning to favor,
the swinging sign-board design taking the lead.
ROUND BROOCHES are again worn, and square
brooches with bright enameled flowers are
novelties.
OvkKDREssEs OF different material worn with
velvet or plush skirts have vests or epaulets
like the skirt.
PLUSH AND SArIN-ExBRoIDEKED RIBBONS
are used for millinery purposes and for TRIM
ming dresses.
PLUSH SKIRTS are worn with overdresses
trimmed with gold or silver braid or open-work
embroidery.
all WOODEN costumes. Linen collars or folds are
worn with them.
SHORT SEAL-PLUsH JACKETS are trimmed
with tufts of the material, and cloaks of it have
ball fringe OF the real seal fur.
SIcILIENNH WITH WArEKED STRIPES, alter
mating with stripes with heraldic designs, for
orapery, Is very beautiful.
SILK GAUzE in all the evening colors has self
coiored chenille and silver loops. Black silk
gauze has gold and red chenille loops
LONDON MILLINERs are making a speciality
OF college caps in velvet and other materials to
correspond with costumes for autumn wear.
SILK SAsHEs, eleven inches wide and three
and quarter yards long. have silver and gold
bars with velvet brocade figures, and are edged
with changeable plush
CORSETs with coarse "soie de sanglier," In
plain English wild boar bristles, instead of
whalebone, are a success in Paris. They are
recommended for sanitary reasons
AWHIrE VELVET BRoCADE OPERA MANTLE
In visite shape is short in the back and Is box
plated Just below the waist line. The long tabs
Ia front and the square sleeves are trimmed
with tufted plush.
WINTER NANTES are either very short or
very long. The short ones are destined to be
worn with very elegant toilets-to appear in
drawing-rooms and not in the streets. Those
for walking are of rich material and very taste
nlly ornamented.
A NEW SHADE OF SWALLOW Blue" very
rich and handsome in effect, is shown among
fabrics of Ottoman, satin brocade and broche
goods. 1t is a mixture of blue and green, and
has many different reflections.
A BROWN CLOTH COAT is short and tight 1T
ting at the back. The fronts are long and are
cut away to show long vest of plush Of a
lighter shade than the cloth. The collar clasp
and buttons are of wood beautifully carved.
FAILLE FRANCHISE in coors tor street wea:
has groups of shaded plush stripes from one
inch in length increasing to six inches and de-
creasing in the same proportion. The stripes
harmonic with the ground color.
HAT OF NAVY BLUE SILK JERSEY CLOTH
with tapering crown, has folds OF blue plush
around the crown. At the left of the front a
cluster of dropping ostrich tips falls over a bow
composed of blue satin ribbon with picot edge,
and plush.
For THE EVENING low corselet Is very
fashionable, completed in the upper part by a
chemisette in the shape Of fchu crossed over the
chest. This may be of fine embroidei ed etamine,
or of sprigged tulle or gauze, or again of wooden
lace or guipure.
A BONNET OF BRoCADED CASHMERE with In
dian design and coloring. has the brim Dor
dered with seal plush. 1t Is trimmed with
bows of pale pink ami russell ribbon with picot
fancy pins. The strings are OF russell ribbon.
IMMENSE RUcHEs pleated up exceedingly full
are revived for finishing the bottom of dress
skirts. These are made of fringed silk In one
color or Of several shades, for evening toilets,
and of the dress material lined with contrast
ing color for handsome visiting and dinner
dresses.
A PARIS CAPorE has the brim made of green
glass beads strung on wire. The crown has the
center covered with plated crimson plush. The
poufs of green feathers shot with crimson. A
coquille of green and crimson plush is placed
In front The strings are OF green watered
ribbon.
THE OBLIGATION SEASON for the return OF
luncheons has arrived, and there is In conse-
Quence great activity observable in the damask
trade. Luncheon and tea appointments were
never SO simply elegant as this season. Every.
pretty. while not SO fine in thread, Of course,
hull dinner cloths.
MARRIED LADIES WEAR HIGH DRESSES Of
black, white or ecru lace over . plain skirt and
low bodice Of colored silk, belt, collar and cuff
Of beadwork tissue. This makes q very useful
dress for small dinner and evening parties
Such toilets require a simple couture, merely
Pearlheaded pins.
The CONSPICUOUS FEATURE OF EARLY WIN
TER MILLINERY will be wool fabrics and rosary
beads. The new shapes are close and snug liz
effect yet a tri6e larger than heretofore. Nearly
new picot-edged RIBBON has quite the prefer
ence- A grea: deal OF velvet ribbon Is also used
as well as fancy plush and etamine ribbons fol
more dressy purposes.
FACTIONS FOR AND AGAINST THE REVIVAL
OF the monstrous crinoline are equally divided
In Paris. Rumor has 1t that the larger contin
gent, Influenced by the modistes Is in favor OF
the ungainly thing. Let Ii be hoped however
that the golden mean betwixt the balloon skirts
and those that Icing like faint lilies will bs
the result OF the contention Of the two oppOsine
forces.
WALKING COSTUMES are, generally speaking
OF simple construction, with jacket bodic,
closely fitting and skirts arranged in broad pan
els with killings set between: this favorits II no
novel style OF trimming is often varied by band
OF Soutache or other fancy braid set In man,
rows around the skirt. The overdress is fuI
and high in the back, this drapery raQuirin,
the support Of the tournure of crinolette or hal
cloth.
ANovEL DRESS is made of poppy.red surah
cut In princesse shape and yelled with blacl
stlk chenille In diamond open-work patterns
A wide scarf OF chenille bordered with deep lie
and chenille fringes Is laid In transverse fold
across the skirt in front and caught up in tn
back with jet clasps, the drapery falling il
double shawl points over the whole Of the bacl
OF the red surah skirt. A vest OF the chenille i
added to the bodice portion.
THEBEAUrIFUL MATERIALS displayed at tn
Crane Washington openings indicate that thi
Is beyond q doubt q wool and velvet season
Whe-s q plain. quiet costume Is needed voc
siiDulfPs the wanI When SOmefhinD dresSv