Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-04-11
WORTH AND HIS DRESSES.
Sight Of the Great Man i'm His Own
Famous ShOp-On His Knees Before
Dress Intended for an Empress
Some Designs for This Year.

Correspondence of the New York Times.
PARIS, March 1S.-No man or woman who
made of dressmaking an art and business has
ever been talked about so persistently or has
made so lasting an impression as the still bril-
liant and omnipotent fashion lawgiver of the
Reu de Ia Paix-M. Charles Frederick Worth
he reigns supreme, and think any doubt OF
the prosperous continuation of his dynasty
would scarcely affect his untroubled and conf
dent equanimity. He is still the ubiquitous,
Woodworking, inspiring taskgiver of his fashion
palace. His two sons aid him legitimately and
effectively but the senior has no desire as yet to
rest upon his laurels. NJ. John Worth is said to
possess all the taste and artistic perception of his
father, while NJ. CASTOR takes entire charge of
the financial department. When we consider
the vast amount of goods used, the 200 or 800
snd ehrd Of the atesSe nd
all the minor detail the necessity of cool
business head-a practical and guiding hand
been made that NJ Worth paid little or no at
tention TO any one, not spending thousands of
francs, or not boasting OF an imposing name OF
Worth the most patient and enduring man in
the world; he has to listen to long tales of
private pros and cons. all tending ultimately
to the reduction in his price. Then, if
the lady suffers from the depressing influence
of troubled skin or a too blossoming cheek he
he must right these, and then find a color to de-
ceive the public and lend the charm of delicate
transparency. If the left eye look imploringly
toward the right eyebrow; if the nose has rather
a too clearly defined BourbOnic majesty, or if
the mouth should happen to deviate slightly
from purely classical outline. M. Worth must
find the way to correct such incidental blemish
stout figure must be made slight; an ema-
ciated one must be made buxom; height must
be created or lessened, and if when all is said
and done the possessor of the new gown does
not find herself pleased, and does not crush to
atoms the aspirations of her bosom friends, then
NJ. Worth is a snare and a deluSiOn.
When entered the establishment yesterday
the dictator was entirely obliviOus to the out
side world. Kneeling before the pretty figure
O a blonde of n
court train in process of construction for the
empress of Russia, NJ. Worth entirely disap-
tulc, and beautiful flowers. Like an artist be-
fore his canvas in the last moments of the re-
tail was being carefully criticised. To certain
degree NJ Worth seems to eschew the faded
out shades; he affects the entire gamut ofgreens
good old pink has come back Also while bright
orange brings in its brilliant reflections. For
his sashes the fashion ruler has borrowed the
pet gauze ribbons of our observation-disclosures;
he lends the gleam OF their satin stripes to
the trains IF his M house or Outdoor
his Inspirations are carefully and quietly
studied out in yards and waste of white and
to the point, stuffs and coloring are brought to
intensity the effect, and then only is the VEN
ture considered worthy of patronage. Every
thing be called the fashion now From
the diguiUettes and broad lace embroidered
collars of Louis XIII down to the plain skirt
high pulled sleeves and expanding sash of the
empire anything can be chosen and anything
be worn that is becoming and tasteful. There
is even a Theodore costume, with plain petit
in one piece, has two belts, meeting in front
with jeweled clasp. On a slight figure the
effect is charming. Black or colored stamped
grenadine gauZe is to be worn, lined with
description was brought in for inspec-
was Composed Of a plain X black demi train of
black gauze lined with white. The white front
was covered with black tule embroidered in
cit
top-so arranged, in fact, to wave almost i'm
perceptibly, 40 thus allow full effect to the
bead glitter OF The fiowery design, The corsage
was pointed back and front. The unlined
sleeves gathered high into the shoulder and
the sleeves came only to the elbow, thus dis
playing the arms. a cluster knot on the cor
sage was made of loops Of pale green, dark red,
and lilac ribbons.
There is no complication in the dresses, or, at
least, the mystery becomes so fit that it all
seems easy enough, yet even the most acute
womanly wit would be glad to be initiated and
enlightened by the courteous Miss Mary, one of
NJ Worth's charming aids-de-camp. Her own
toilet, although extremely sober and ladylike
seems to suggest all sorts of delicious combina-
tions. ball dress for the empress of Russia
was made of scarlet tulle. 1t seemed to be tucked
with velvet-Worth rather affects this whim,
both with satin and velvet ribbons-drawn
through sedate tuckings of tulle lace or muslin.
Around the short train were plaitings of tulle,
and from underneath one could catch glimpse
wavy lace. All over the front the same tulle
was caught up with large clusters of white mar
clSSuS. IneSe, nelO In their turn by garlandS
of the barberry, seemed like trembling ex-
banded dewdrops, slender seemed their
twining tendrils and so delcately were
they posed. Behind fell a long sash of white
gauze ribbon. NJ. Worth found great fault with
a seemingly perfect brown velvet corsage be.
cause it had voluminous lace drapery in front.
He said, vexatiously. chipping away with his
scissors, that sit looked like q covering over
dirty spots The body was made to match a
long train dress OF white lace over white faille.
This being almost entirely striped with perpen-
dicular bands of velvet tapering to the waist
was covered with another jupe of lace caught
up with cream MORE sash, while the hips
a plated drapery Of piece velvet stood out like
the dOublet of an old courtier. This STYLE is
another recent caprice of the despot and,
strange to say, somehow or other, he so man.
ages the folds that even with solid hips the eff
feet is picturesque. 1t is not only the invention
but the adaptability that NJ. Worth possesses.
. Everything this season is plain and rich but
there is no fuss; long, sweeping curved lines
and deep folds must form the Slight drapery
that is allowed. One might as well ask Nelson
Ter TO put i'll II dozen more accessories as to
expect Worth to show the value of the costume
by extreme accumulation of detail. For the
Empress of Russia a dress for the races was
made of pale lilac faille; tulle, embroidered in
crystal beads fell over the front, and this was
brought up TO the left in broad and simmer
ing folds, where loops of lilac, lined with the
palest blue, held the glitterng mass in place
Around the edge of the limited train were SIM
liar loops. The hat, made by order of NJ. Worth,
was Ornamented with tufts of feathers and
aigrettes of the two shades. No wonder the
Partisan elegance seems frequently imbued
with an English spirit, when the royal pro-
moter of all the chic that is and must be came
from Lincolnshire. NJ. Worth's father was an
eminent lawyer,and his two sons were destined
to professional labor, when unluckly specula-
tons so shrunk the family fortune that
the children were driven to personal eff
fort. The elder brother took employment
L believe, under the government, but the
younger-the present celebrity-made sudden
plunge into the emporium of Swami Il Edgar
in London. That soon proved itself too limited
a sphere, and the young man decided to try
Paris. Entering the firm of Gag ct Cie. he
speedily mastered the business. He was made
a partner, and only left the house to branch out
more rapidly undei his own auspices in the Rue
de Ia PaiX, where he has remained ever since
occupying with his numerous DRESS waist
sleeve, coat and mantle work-rOoms all the
space of large fve-story building Auguste
the hairdresser and miliiner, occupies the en-
tresol true; but he, too, is quite a creation of NJ
Worth's, who not only enjoys absolute and die
tatorial power in his kingdom, but, strange to
say, even his rivals bow before him. CONNER
clal circles and business men of all grades
speak in high terms of his capacity and lnteg-
rty, and they willingly admit that the rule Of
his life is TO live and let live. He takes and
pays for talent wherever he finds 1t. Had NJ.
Worth employed all the people who are ready
to take oath to their former allegiance his eS-
Enlistment would have to include all the Rue
de la Paix and large portion of the Avenue de
fOpera.