The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1885-05-02
HHE REALM OF FASHION,
openinss-Hats. BOnnets, MILL
merry, Frocks and Costumes.

Ihe spring openings of millinery and
dry goods have begun. They are well
attended, and the displays of hats, bon
uets, dresses, wraps, and novelties of
al sorts, but especially of wooden fab
RIGS are brilliant and Devil dering. Not
tlthe OF the new styles of garments
and bonnets will probably be adopted
and worn, for the day has gone by
when Paris, London, New York, or any
particular city, or set of dress and mil
linerY artists can ''set the fashion" for
the millions of well-dressed people in
the world. SO our readers will bear in
MIND that when we report what is seen
at the openings this month it is not by
any means to be inferred that those
styles will be worn without
modification. just at the moment
all is chaotic and uncertain.
The objective point of every street or
carriage toilet is the hat or bonnet. To
what extent the singular and startling
headgear shown this spring in the way
OF Paris hats will be worn in New York
cover the high coiffures, which seem 80
grow higher from week to week, both
hats and bonnets are given large and
higheFowns. But that is not all. The
crowns are made still more conspicuous
by having all the trimmings massed in
front and actually topping, nodding
and waving several inches above these
high crowns. The effect is formidable.
Then the colors and combinations of
colors and materials on these hats and
bonnets add to the startling effect.
Gauze ribbons in Moyenage colors
striped with MORE bands are mingled
with tinsel braids, both wide and mar
row. Other ribbons of linen, wool or
silk canvas are barred with gold or
silver threads, while the flowers that
help to form the mixture of millinery
effects on the front of the crowns are of
bold and pronounced form and color,
and if nothing else can be said in their
favor, they certainly initiate nature
with wondrous fidelity. If feathers are
used they are curled into huge panaches
that encroach upon the brim, some
times reaching over on the waved,
frizzed and banged front hair Els
pecially is this the feature of the peaked
and cut brimmed pokes.
Fanchons are no longer the modest
cap-like bonnets of yore. They have
high, aspiring crowns, cleft and up
turned brims, and with masses of
flowers, ribbons, gauze, tinsel braid
and curled feathers, pompons and
aigrettes placed directly in front of the
high crown and on the top of the head,
are scarcely less striking and bold in
effect than the hats.
Are there no modest creations among
all the varieties of hats and bonnets
seen at these openings? Yes, but they
are few, and are not conspicuously dis
played. However, these unobtrusive
capotes may become the popular bonnet
of the season.
: Most of the dresses shown at the
openings are scarcely less exaggerated
than the bonnets. When they are du-
jplicated for American women they will,
of course, be modified. This applies,
however, only to the imported toilets.
f.. In ready-made American frocks there
are good suggestions of the incoming
seasons styles. The tailor-made suits
are particularly admirable this spring.
Dressy without being too elaborate, and
with excellent combinations of plain
and plaid, plain and broche, plain and
,bourette, and boucie and tinsel shot
novelty goods, or simply braided, they
are as varied as taste could demand.
The cost of such suits ranges from $50
ito $40, and every lady ought to have one
or more in her collection of summer
wardrobe effects.
The dresSy Paris costumes have, as
rule. exceedingly long wasted bodices,
high shouldered effects in the top OF the
armhole, very full pleated skirts, which,
however, are not very bouffant, save in
the back, where an enormous pouf
formed of the stuff rises high above Il
hustle of horsehair, not crinoline, at
tached underneath to the waistband.
Few side robes are seen, but the hip
.draperies are exceedingly modest, and.
las rule, composed simply of a scarf
'drapery which does duty in forming the
pouf, and long drapery in the back,
falling in straight lines from below the
ipouf to the bottom of the skirt.
These are the outlines of form in all
sorts of frocks, whether for street,
carriage, afternoon, or evening wear,
save for occasions of highest ceremony,
when the trained robe is adopted
Scarf draperies on the corsage, forming
fichus, plastrons, wastcoats a la Moliere,
berthes, and many nameless but grace
full decorations are features in spring
toilets. Much ribbon in the form of
bows, loops, and lattice work is min
gled with quantities of lace and chenille
fringes. Jet and fine colored cut beads,
tinsel thread passementeries, macca-
Rooms, palm leaf patterns, and motifs
of various forms also help to make up
the ornamental effects. The mingling
of two fabrics, one plain the other
broche, boucie, bourette, plaided, or
barred, and frequently silver or gold
shot is the rule for all dressy frocks.
Sometimes more than two or even three
different kinds of stuffs appear in one
costume of high ceremony.
Newmarkets, only slightly different
from those of last year, are largely i'm
ported and produced for early spring
wear. Some have loose fronts, while
defining the form perfectly in the back
Others are tight back and 'front.' The
fastenings are large metal or small
crochet buttons. Long raglans are