Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-09-26

Sk1hIS,
BYZANTINE patterns are in high favor.
EMBOSSED FELvErs AND VELvETEENs are
in favor.
CHILDRENs FRoCKs are trimmed with many
rows OF braid.
LACE will continue I'm fashion for trimming
dresses.
CORDUROY JACKETS will be worn by young
girls.
CAMEL's HAIR SUrrrNGs have exceedingly
fine stripes.
BEADED NETS, with gold, jet or silver orna-
ments, are made up with silk.
SILKS for evening wear have plush stripes
alternating with brocaded ones.
TIGHT FITTING NORFOLK JACKETS Of home
spun are worn with any costume.
CHILDREN's DRESSES OF red and blue com
bined are favorites for autumn wear.
A NEW STYLE OF dress goods has q guipure
pattern over a contrasting color.
VELVET Doc COLLARS with crotcheted lace
halftheir width are worn with different dresses.
JERSEY JACKETS have plush vests, the fav Or
lite combination being seal brown with vest Of
golden plush.
SERGEs WITH DESIGNS in broad braid for
bordering skirts and narrower designs for
bodfces are novelties.
SINGLE-BREAsTED JERSEY JACKETS have the
front edged with satin drop buttons, set as
closely together as possible.
CARVED WOODEN BEADS of every size and
color are used for trimming dresses, mantles
and bOnnets.
WOODEN DRESS FABRICS, embroidered with
tinsel and with frise palm leaves, and also with
silk cord, are novelties.
STRAIGHT, graduated, raised sunken boucle
bourrette, broche, zigzag, waved, mixed combi-
nation stripes are all seen on both wool and
silk fabrics this fall.
SOME OF TIE richest millinery stuffs are used
by dressmallers to form the narrow waistcoats
the Guns, and high collars OF dresses of various
kinds of material.
A PLoMB-COLoRED SATIN POKE is covered
with a network of plomb beads. The trimming
consists OF loops of scarlet and plomb ribbon.
The strings are also of plOmb ribbon.
FRIsE OR BoUCLE Woods are utilized for the
borders of skirts. the collars, cuffs, and pockets
OF tabernacle cloth dresses, and for the trim
m1ngs ofjackets, newmarkets, and ulsters.
BLACK VELVET CAPoTE, with full crown,
Is trimmed with mass of loops Of watered
ribbon, among which nestle three Java spar
rows. The strings are of broad watered ribbon.
SILK AND WOODEN jersey stockinet hats
are novelties They are made over a felt shape
but being much dearer than felt and not
Idressy,' they will probably not be very popu-
lar.
GLADSTONE JACKETS have plain short backs.
They are doubled-breasted and have no TRIM
nally from the shoulders TO the waist line, wild.
ening from thence TO the lower edge.
PLAIN WOODEN goods are made up with
sashes of the same material with exceedingly
line stripes of chenille at wide intervals. The
ends of the SaShes repeat the stripes but in
greater breadth, alternating with friSe stripes.
ALLIGAroR LEATHER HATS, with plush
brims in olive, brown and plomb, trimmed
with bird or montour of fancy feathers, are
displayed in New York. They have been
largely sold, and are to be had in all the new
shapes.
THE OvERSKIRTs Of many cloth dresses are
made long front and back, looped very high on
one side and slashed to the waist line on the
other. showing the rich bordered boucle, Byzan-
A1tr
underskirt.
AN ADMIRED millinery color combination
this fail Is dark green with plomb or lead color,
the hat or bonnet being of dark green velvet.
ornaments, the strings of plomb or lead-colored
ribbon with pearl picot edges.
n BLUE BOUCLE material dress has a kilt
plated skirt and full drapery at the back. The
font draRFery is arranged as a very short apron.
The postillion bodice opens over a blue velvet
vest and the high collar and the trimming on
the sleeves are OF velvet
BOTH LONG CLoAKs and small wraps made of
striped stuffs, wool or silk, will be worn. This
Is "a very ugly fashion, but one which must be
mentioned, since its ugliness does not
hinder ii from being worn, and consequently
from being entitled to a place in faithful
BoNNErS are more capricous than ever.
They are of large and medium dimensions,
sometimes bent in the brim in way to form
large regular pleats like ruche. and at others
pleated IN this manner on one side only. The
Facing of these wide bonnets is generally OF q
differing color from the bonnet itself.
COSTUME of brownsh homespun has long
drapery at the back. The front drapery is long
ana pointed at the left side, showing side panels
trimmed with rows of brown braid. The postil-
lion bodice has a simulated Elton jacket bor-
ending in loops forming the trimming on the
sleeves, and on the shoulders are epaulets of
paSsementerie and braid.
SKIRTS DESIGNED to be worn under polo
yrith hacty hpaa Afh
in front, are often deliberately trimmed with
embroidery or passementerie. and are frequently
also covered, as in former times with pleated
nounces; these peated fiounces constitute
medium between the severe peasant skirt with
out a pouf and the draped skirt to which we
have returned altogether.
HARPEFsS Bdzar says that wool costumes are
most largely imported at this season. because
the taste at present dictates wool for street
suits. These suits, however, are in two dis
tlnct styles, those from Paris being combina-
tions of two fabrics, with wool predominating
as the over dress. and the preference being for
smooth cloths, while English gowns are entirely
OF one material, which is usually homespun,
serge, boucle, or other rough-surfaced stuff.
The FAvoRITE COMBINATIONS for French
costumes consist of the smooth-nnished ANA
ION or ladies' cloth for the basque. drapery and
Jacket, with a skirt, vest, collar and cuffs of
velvet or of plush, or else of figured cloth. wool
with rough boucle or Astrakhan stripes or Dor
ders, or 10 may be stripes of velvet or plush on
wool ground The newest dresses are without
IlOunce>. ana nave very lew pleatS In the lower
skirt Plain velvet or plush skirts are revived
10 be worn under cloth or camels hair over.
dresses.
VERY Few VELVET CoRsAGEs are worn with
skirts of different color and material. They
have been abolished TO give place to the plas-
tron and the cOrselet. the latter represented by
very wide belt, which reaDpears in some shape
in almost all dresses. These belts are made
both Of velvet and OF plain or embroidered silk
A high corsage with very long point will have
nat plastron, OF plain stuff II the corsage is
figured, or the reverse, plain corsage will have
figured plastron, and this pIastron often serves
10 give color and character to dress that would
be monotOnOus withoutit.
STRIPED SKIRTS are also much used with
cloth over-dresses, and these may be across or
lengthwise, in pleats or plain, as the wearer
chooses. For cross stripes, maroon velvet two
inches wide on dark brown or blue cloth ia very
effective in a kiltpleated skirt that NAV be in
regular pleats all around, or else have q plain
front with pleats in the sides and back The
frise or bouele striped woods are also most effec
tive for skirts, whether In one color or in con-
trastS; in some OF these there Is a very wide
border stripe at the foot, with narrower stripes
above; lengthwise stripes are used TO best effect
in plain skirts.
THEFABRICS for autumn wear are very beau
tiful-the soft brocaded effects in wooden goods
being especially noticeable. Designs and color
ing are rich and harmonious. The various
lite colors. Felveteen and light make of cor
duroy Will be worn In combination with wooden
materials SergeS with deep selfcolOred borders
oi drawn work edged with fringe are novelties
when the serge Is black this drawn, fringed
border has two white threads alternating with