National Republican., 1885-03-28

tended river front Of this immense harbor
you realize that the Mississippi is q river
whicn bisects continent. and that this Is
where it comes to All ond. Many people
take the excursion dawn to the jettles,
which takes day and night, but the
prospect Of spending n night on one Of
these repusiyo boats would deter us from
going even If VIC had time.
One of the surprises of tho city is TO go
into tho beautiful Jcsuits' Church on
Baronne street. The outside Is oxtromoly
ancient and dingy looking, and thore was
apparently no entrance open. We tried a
side door aud found ourselves in y paved
courtyard shut in by tho high walls OF tho
church and the school, and filled with 3
tocmng mass Of shrieking, shouting, and
laughing boys One OF them Immediately
came forward aud showed us tho little
side door by which wo could enter. Tho
big church was solemn with the subdued
light Of tho immense beautiful stained
glass windows. Three or four old women
on their knees wero telling their beads
with brown, shrivelod fingers; in one
corner an artist was sketchinR, and from
the back of the church camo low murmurs
from two confessionals. While We looked
bell sounded and with great noise and
clatter lot of boys rushed in aud hastily
dropping on their knees In the chancel
pews began to say their prayers, with
their eyes rowing wildly round the church,
and apparently much more intent on our
movements than on their dovotions.
At tho cathedral we were fortunate
enough to see yesper service. 1t is an
immense barren structure dedicated to
St. Louis the patron saint Of Louisiana,
who from all can sec has neglected his
business very much. In one corner of tho
cathedral Is an artificial grotto, with rum
ming water, and q statue representing Our
Lady Of Lourdes. A little sign states In
French that the water is
NEITHER SOLD NOR GIVEN AWAY.
There arc number of bent and shriv-
cled old black women with their heads
tied up in gorgeous turbars, who go
throu III their gonuhcCtions with great
uuction. Tho feature of tho service is
the presence of tho suisse or sexton, an
imposing parsonage In cooked hat and
scarlet coat wit h profuse gold lace, a staff
with large gilt knob on it, much re.
sembing drum maj jor's, and a clanking
sword. When tho time arrives for the
collection this dignitied official proceeds
up and down the aisles, notifying the
faithful OF his coming by tho sharp click
of his staff upon tho marble floor. Ho is
followed by small boy in q red shirt
with white sleeves bearing a species
of silver cake-basket in which,you deposit
contribution for fear of his highness
unsheathing his sword upon you. The
boy, in spite of his sacerdotal garb, can
not refrain from indulging in a friendly
poke to youthful acquaintance in the
end of u pew, which the acquaintance &C
knowledges with n responsive grin.
1t makes us feel quite at hom on COM
ing out to sec in the square in the front
of the church, among queer foreign.look-
| ing cacti Gen. jackson with his bangs
ruiiiing In the wind rearing wildly on a
Clark Mills horse the exact counterpart
of tho one in Lafayette square. Under
1t is the quotation, singularly appropriate
for Louisiana, "The Union Must and
| Shall be Preserved"
On Sunday while service was going on
in the cathedral we saw seated at the
door venerable black person with gay
turban selling cakes from a small table to
the people going in aud out. She con-
versed with them all affably in French.
and deyOutly rose and crossed herself
when the angelus rang. She was evil
IDENTIFY an extremely pious person, hut
saw no reason why she should not turn
an honest penny merely because 1t hap.
pened to be Sunday.
ELISE HATHAWAY