The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-09-20

Black toilettes are trimmed with lead beads
Felt Tam oShanter hats show folds in the
crowns like those of silk or velvet.
Children are wearing killed Mother Hubbards,
made of flannel both striped and plain.
Madras striped silk is used for panels, vests
and cuffs for costumes of dark silk of fine wool
Alaska sable, Persian lamb-skin, and the light,
natural beaver will be the popular furs for
trimming cloth wraps.
seal brown velvet toque is tastefully trimmed
with cluster of loops of wide brocade, cream
colored ribbon and fancy bird.
Lace pocket handkerchiefs being only en-
regle for state occasions are made into pretty
Jabots or bows, and worn with deml- toilettes
The new Redfern jacket is short with loose
sacque front 1t is less becoming but more
boyish than the Albert coat, and will undoubted-
ly take with young ladies.
Simulated drapery upon overskirts is fire.
quentiy attained by cutting the lower edge IT.
| regularly This manner of arrangement, when
cleverly done, gives the exact effect OF draping
Among winter wraps. sealskin sacques and
furlined circulars will hold their own Gar
ments that have been as long in fashion as
these, die hard and this is what gratifes so
many ladies.
It takes good figure, and slender one to
wear the cutaway coat and waistcoat Those
who are not thus blessed should have the narrow
plastron vest with the dress buttoned closely
Plush is restored to favor, and is a favorite
| material for small wraps. rivalling velvet in
popularity. and only second to fur seal for very
| rich garments and is made into the scarf and
| cape-like garments that have only one seam in
| the back and short shoulder seams.
| Wraps for fall show slight changes from those
| of the spring Visites aud mantles with long,
straight pointed fronts. falling we'll below the
| knee, form the bulk of recent importations.
| Beads in some other of their many forms,
lace or chenille, or feather marabout are the ia
vorite trimmings.
| Hats as high as ever, and the trimming,
| stuck straight up in 'front.' has a tendency to
| make them look still more So Fine felts come
| In the new shades to match the coors for cloth
dresses, and are trimmed with velvet and feath-
| ers or with new wool scarfs, which strongly re-
semble the etamne of the summer.
The popular Newmarket coat comes in abreast
of the new styles and is sure to be the fatigue
wrap OF the season. Rough cloth takes prece
dence as the material of which they are made,
but as these increase the apparent size of the
| wearer many women still cling by preference to
| the smooth chamos skin cloth, which. like gros
| grain never goes entirely out of fashion.
Patentleather shoes are fashionable for the
| house, cut very low and secured by black rib
bon across the instep With these only black
stockings are worn although occasionally dark
blue green used with toilettes of these
colors. Black stockings preferred, except
the toilette be of some very pale color or white
and even then black is used if the stockings do
not match exactly.
Felt bonnets are the first choice for the early
autumn. The most fashionable of these are
trimmed with ribbons alone-a severe style, but
becoming to youthful faces, and one that re-
quires the Skill of finished modiste to arrange
artistically. The heavy repped ribbons are most
popular, either of the same color as the bonnet
or of pretty contrasting shade selected to har-
monize with the costume.
Great discretion will be needed by the wearers
of horizontal stripes They are becoming to very
tall and slender figures, but when adopted by
| ladies of medium or low stature they apt to
| give too rotund appearance, an effect which
| can only be redeemed by the draperies of the
| tunic falling over and celebrating the lines in
parts SO that they are nowhere seen in their full
| extent from the waist to the edge.
| Velvets are to be the popular choice for bon
nets. Never have these been shown in such
| variety of coorings and styles; plain and en-
| broidered. shaded, striped, beaded and rept
| form some of the varieties. Plush is also to be
used, both for trimming and entire bonnets and
hats. The greatest novelty is embroidered cloth
This can be utilized for bonnets to wear with
any wool costume, but is especially designed for
the embroidered cloth dresses that are par ex-
celence to be the costume for the winter.
Rough wooens are to be very fashionable
English homesnuns, looking not unlike gray
brown blanket; boucles, which remind one of
the nelgeuses (naJlrs, the statesmen called them)
eight or ten years ago. excepting that instead of
the curl or nap being white, 1t is In all the new
shades, sometimes the same color as the back
ground, bourettes and dozen others, all of the
same family. One odd cloth. thick enough to be
worn in an Arctic climate. is thickly powdered
with white hairs, as though it had been worn
under fur lined circular the fur of which had
begun to shed.
Bright colors have for several seasons been
| steadily working their way into popular favor.
| This year all red dresses have been frequently
seen at watering Places and it is probable will
| be much worn for evening. Sober gray dull
| drab and browns, cold and quiet. warm and
| bright, bid fair to predominant in dress goods
| There is, however, TO be much illumination
| touches of brilliant color blazing out from the
sombre background The French fashion, with
stripes where one is red orange or bright blue,
| while the other is more subdued in color is to
lay the peats so that the latter is always on top,
and the gay color shows as flashes, or, as the
French say, in ambush.
Silk waterproof cloaks, wholly of silk, and
very light, are new and expensive but very de-
sirable. Who has not wished for ran-cloak
and overshoes like mist. that gathers itself up
| that. like Limerick gloves, would fold away in a
| nutshell Umbrellas are discarded by hardy
| spirits, who find natty, becoming storm dress
| and turban of tweed or silk quite protection
enough, without burdenng themselves with the
| awkard umbrella. Storm wraps Of dark blue,
woven with reversible side of deep red are
picturesque and serviceable so are the dull tar
tans, with bright lining. and the heather tweeds,
| with sleeves and cape woven in the garment so
| that no seams are left to fray out
The Latest Style of House Dress.
| New York Mail and Express.