Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1885-06-06

tion sanitary point view. The
thousands OF women who NV occupy i'm
portant positions, who WOE in shops and
ft"cl!o|iiIes, who support temselves and
lalllllies, all wear the ordaary dress of
"olleu ana maintain stadaTd of health
superior TO that of male employees.
=. Inc apparently splendid hysical condi-
ton Of women in New YorAnd elsewhere
is constant subject of remrk, and is due
undoubtedly to good air anOplenty of it,
10 good food, and to dreS which does
not severely restrain or tortre them. AS
lot the necessity for unifOn weight of
covering, covering at all is anere matter
oil habit, and if every par should be
evenly covered, why not fee, wrists.
hands, throat, ears, and eYerypart of the
body. The best thing about lie dress of
women Is that they can and q change it
NOT the fashion of It, but ilelf Men
would do well to pay little mre atten-
ZION to their own dress and historic the
linen summer clothing, or at Leaf substi-
Jute something that can be washd. Flap-
mel suits ana the like, cleaned OF thrown
aside, may meet the requremets of a
few; bat the majority do not spad their
days III playing lawn tennis. Thy 90 to
work. They wear dark clothes, reeking
win persplratlon, and they are content
with frequent or infrequent cange of
shirt
SOLVING THE PROBLEM
Book discussions do little to lear IN
the muddle in regard to what to YEAR and
now to wear 1t, but sensible womn solve
the problem tor themselves by bang their
own dressmakers. Clothes are rot a bur
den TO women when thew hive once
learned what to get rid Of. Theresiduum
Is generally what they want fet rid of
adulteration of material. get ri of whale
bone IN dresses, which does MT improve
the form and only wears on Tho stuff; get
rid OF movable dress-expanGes, and de-
signs that cut the material VI into frag-
ments. There are many othe things to
get rid of, but the list would b. too long,
and every woman can fill it uTfor herself
A great help in solving the POLLEN is in
adhering to a few rules in regard to
fabrics, the most important ofwhich is to
get them Of pure quality whether
silk, wool or cotton. Niny mex
penslye materials are now SC exquisite
IN texture and quality, and 9 soft and
lovely in color, that one cannt bear to
give them up. Their daintiness becomes
a part OF our lives, and we want them to
live with us forever. Women mss much
who do not make themselves acquainted
with the best things, the softest VOOls, the
all-thrOugh silks, the daintest cottOns,
and stick to them. They are economy
from the first and can never be worn out.
though they be spoiled by III treatment.
Ii one wished to express otesell through
ones dress, it would be found necessary
to keep the stiff rustling six for cross in
stead of company days, lhe soft white
wool for the sympathetic days, the gray
dress for the sad days, thu pink dress for
the joyous days, and the old china blue
for the holidays.
SUMNER Who'll.
1t is to English and German influence
we owe thespreetige acquired during late
years by wooden dress materials, aided OF
course by the great advance in the art OF
their manufacture aad the wide range it
covers in weight, texture and design.
There was a time when the wooden dress
was the almost universal dress of both
men and women, and the differences in
cost and quality we're marked more by
the hand-wOrk put Upon the stuff, and the
Intervening of tue gold and silver
threads than by difference of texture and
quality in the Original fabric. AS late as
the beginning OF tie present century
cotton for dresses wa dearer than wool,
and the chintz Cotton gown was the
luxury of the poor, as Slken fabrics were
the luxury of the rich. American cotton
made cotton cheap to Ill the world, and
Chinese silk made silk if not cheap, at
least cheaper than it hal been, and every
woman wanted silk, ff the generations
had been deprived of it and a silk dress
TO many meant the realization of the Wild
est dream of ambition.
We are only just now recovering from
that exaggerated sense Of the value Of
srIl md re 70 fan.
should be, that the reactiOnay movement.
the strongest feeling in favor of the early
fabric, should be found anong the rich
and well-to-do classes. Those who have
no illusions about silk are intimately
acquainted with its charm and pOssibili-
ties, and give to it its proper place and
value.
Art, too, has done something to elevate
wool by showing its susceptibility TO pic
turesque and graceful arran@ment; and
this influence has done more than aught
else to maintain the ascendancy acquired
by soft textures to the exclusion of the
stiff stu1s and wiTy alpacas OF previous
era. There is a subtle fascination in the
texture of pure wool that is absent from
silk, linen or cotton. One would say it
had feeling and vital qualitYthat brings
it into rdppOr with human needs. 1t is
both warm and light; it is both light and
cool: it is sympathetic and restiul unless
made otherwise by the Introduction
of foreign element or the
destructive art of the bad mOdiste. Silk
and satin have been subservient to 1t in
the cloth dress for walking in the BOWS
and belts and sashes used in trimming for
1t in the evening. Its grades and degrees
cover the distance between cloth with a
thickness and weight Of wool in IL that
would burden strong man, and tissue so
light that enough TO make dress may be
passed through a ring. AS underwear IN
this climate il is invaluable, for its soft,
warm or gauZy textures adapt themselves
10 every change and variety of climate,
while it so readily absOrbs perspiration.
Is so easily, with undervest form, changed
and washed and is 50 inexpensive that
every one can provide enough for an
supply, and for a daily change
ii necessary, at q cost OF less than s..
Woods deserve much more care in their
than 1t has been the habit to be-
stow upon them, certain wooden materials
being always set apart by really distin-
guished and fashionable women for GER
tain definite and well defined purposes;
and they are bought for these purposes
wear after year, each mandatory having
a character Of its own as easily recOg-
nlzable as Haviland, Copeland, Wedge
wood or Worcester ware inChina.
SUMMER DESIGNS AND PRICES.
There Is "A marvellous reduction in the
cost Of all materials IN bulk at the same
time that there Is "A great Improvement in
texture and IN the beauty Of the designs.
I'm the new wide woods, so supple, so light,
80 strong, so pliable, so adaptable 10 all
women's uses, there Is, it must be repeat
ad an ahaolute fascination. one Wishes