New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-09-27
ENGLISH SOCIETY AS 1T is.
rrs WAYS. ITS FAILlNGS AND ITS FEARS
40 COPYRIGHT 1855.

l .so,hs that Count Paul Vasili fails to notice
.ho. the fashionable world of London is conspic-
- for nothing moro than for the decline OF
a;san,earance of fashion as contro ling ana over
oving force. One will. that Is to say, search in
vain now for any such supreme social potentate az
,ras Brummel among lnen, or as were Lady jersey,
lady Londonderry and the Princess Lieven among
women. at the beginning of this century. Though
fashion was then usually allied. often identical,
with wealth birth. it had an existence independ-
ent either of great family position or opulence,
ancestral OF acquired. Take the case of Brummel
who was not rich man. but who was social
dictator. He hal carriage OF his own. and al
ways went in what was called in the parance Of
his period a hackney COACH" But there resided
more authority in that vehicle, when he was owner
of il, than in the chariots which rolled past it.
freghted with dukes and duchcsses, knights OF the
garter and lords OF high degree. In Brummels
day, though others were struggling into existence,
the only clubs recognized by the London bucks OF
the period were Whites Brookss and Doodle S.
They were known distinctively as :" the three
clubs" the most moiish of the number being pei
haps Whites" If Brummel had seen any young
gentleman. newly arrived from the country, intent
upon cutting a figure in the metropolis and wear
inc coat other article of apparel that could
be at all described outre. he would demonstrate
follow it with something in the nature of a repr-
mand II that were unavaiiing ho would increase
the solcmnity of the warning and would say,
"UnleSs you change yOur coat" or hat, or vest as
the case might be, "y0u will not get into Whites"
The ascendancy of Brummel. like that of the
ladies' already mentioned the partcipators OF his
empire was not less unchalienged at Almacks
That insttu ton was for several reasons. type of
the social spirit of the epoch. 1t was symbol OF
the reign of fashion something distinct, If not
from rank yet fro mere birth. 1t was as economi-
cal as it was exclusive. The price of admission. to
be secured ouly Dy vouchers very sparingly dis
tribnted was for ladies seven shillngs and SIX
pence, and for gentlemen half sovereign. The
heavy taxation entaileI by the revolutionary wars
of the last and of the beginning of the present
century had rendered the reduction of establish
ments and the curtailment of expenses absolutely
necessary. As yet the commercial classes had not
secured foothOld in society. Gradually the
plnching of the patrcian shoe, aud the discovery
that London abounded in parrenHs with plenty OF
money to spend, and anxious only to spend 1t IN
good company, paved the way for the entrance OF
the well to-do middle class into the circle of aIis-
tocrscy aud fashion. As a stlted writer has put ii,
the last tinge of feudality grew dim and pale in
the broad horizon of wealth, ilumned by the sun
OF intellect" When once this change had fairly
set n society began to rest upon its present fOunda
tion and, by degrees, the principle of aristocracy
was merged in, or in many cases. superseded by,
the principleOf putocracy. That latter principle is
plramounJ to-day; and hence the chief leaders, as
they are the most indefatigabe aud magnificent
entertainers of Society in London, are to be found
In the merchant princes andl princesses. many of
whom are of foreign extraction and of the chief OF
whom an adequate account IS given by Count
WolKenstcin, in his Society in London" IL must
be recoilected that this tendency of the time has
been materially helped by .he announcement
which, with the object of playing them of against,
and providing a counterpoise for the arisiocracy'
the Prince COnsort aud the Queen gave, in the
manner already decrbei, to the chosen representa-
tives of the prosperous middle-claSses.
The order, thus promoted to social distinction. has
assimllated itself TO its supcrors with marvellous
rlpidty and ease. 1t has contracted many OF their
preudieai and peculiariLes 1t has also contracted
many marriages with the sons and daughters OF
noble houses 1t educates its yoath in the same
schools and universities, obtains for them commits
sions in the regiments, and causes them to be
elected members Of the same climbs. The fusion
therefore, nav now be regarded complete, and 1t
Is difficult to say where the middlc-class ends and
the aristocracy begins Olo NAV almost be dcied
TO draw the line unless arstocracy il interpreted as
equivalent to tbs tit1lary eHnobel order. Aud
even thus it mist not be forgotten that pcerages
and baronetcIes have been distributed during the
last three or four decades with extraordinary lib
crafty among middle-class families London
Society as il is is, TO tho graphic expression OF
Count Wolkcnstein, a chaotic congerles OF sets;
some moro Others less exclusive There are few
great Indies. AMI Just few-a very few-line gen.
lemen. who affect to consider that the lalics
who bear German names with, it may 6o'
.ospcoa of tie Israete in them, and who en-
terrain the polite world upon 80 splendid a scale
urng tie London not leaders OF society,
are not indeed, in Society. I hat is purely ques-
ton of language but II to 80 everywhere ana To re-
c,iye every one is to be in Society thcn this criterion
NAV he dismissed as a silly a1d vain su2e rsti-
ton IL definition OF the term Society s wanted,
I know of no other than of that supplied by the
Foreign Resilent"-th social area of which the
Prince of Wales is personally cogpizant and within
the limits of which his authority reigns supreme.
The Heir-Apparent alone Of living Ensiislimen
can make social reputation The anal
award of censurc or praise, of condemnation or par
don. rests with him. 1t is he whose easy a1d com
cosmOpolitanism has secured 80 cordial
welcome for the foreigner and 50 successful
career for the stranger within our gates, lie has IN
fact uncousciously 1t may be, followed III TINS re-
glr at least the example OF his illustrious father
He has cultivated tho Opulent OF all nations,
Teutons or Hebrews. lie has done all OF this with
a happy grace, of which he a!olo is master. lie
gives rank the honor due to it, but it is the wollthy
middle class or the mcneyol alien who have most
Droitei from his patronage. The increased popu-
srity of the theatre. the continued popularity oil
The turf ITSELF tue high favor which such an lnsti-
tuition as the New Club enjoys, are largely due TO
bis initiative.
London Society, then, is at the present moment
IN immense and as from its numbers it necessarily
must be- a very imperfcctly organized SYSTEM There
IS no place for the farreaching and absolute power
Of Brummel in il. Or perhaps 1t would DC nore
correct to say that the material out OF when
Brummel might be made is utilize IN direction
very different from that in which BrnmmePs