The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-06-06
SUMNER STYLES.

Black lace jackets are revived and are now
made of piece lace cut with darts and size
forms, precisely as basques are.
For travelling or camping out" cloth, flannel
and thick bunting of any color but black are
worn. The make is of the simplest
China Grape ssshus, in all light shades and rich
reds, embroidered or frnged, or with fringe only.
will be worn with white and lightcolored dresses.
Among the overjackets for summer wear are
those of Neapoltan red serge, braided with
deeper color, and in fine arabesque pattern
These are designed for morning wear III the
mountains or at the seashore.
Improved English walking-ha have appeared
once again, little wider in the brim, and with
less roll at the sides than upon the old models.
Many ladies prefer this style of hat to any shape
ever produced among the scores designed for gen.
eral wear.
Colored Innings of poppy-red, pale lilac pink.
ciel blue, and primrose underdresses of grena-
dine. lace net and other transparent fabrics,
are to be the height of fashion the coming sum
mer Beneath the new wooden or yak aces,
these Innings are very effective.
Very pretty fchus are made in soft folds of
gold or silver dotted tule or muslin, to pass
round the throat and cross low upon the front of
the bodice. The neck is completed by a band of
velvet edged with standing lace, and the ends
with lace and group of velvet and satin loops
Very simple tailor styles are used for piQue
dresses and these severely plain dresses have
inch wide linen braid in rows for trimming Inc
colored cotton repped goods known as Sicilienne
has the appearance of pique, and is better liked
because it is more pliable and Of much less
weight.
The surplice waist Tapped to one side is the
most dressy of the belted waists, and is much
used for thin lawns and batisteS. The fronts
are tucked or edged with lace, and instead OF
being cut out to fit the neck. the straight front
is gathered to the back at the top, thus throwing
pretty fulness over the bust.
The yoke waist go much worn last year will
still be used; it will be tucked for plain muslins
and laws, and embroidered for dresses that are
otherwise trimmed with embroidery. 1t is In
nicer taste to have the yoke of the dress material
than to have a colored dress with a white yoke
resembling the guimpes of children's dress.
Fresh importatons of millinery for the sum-
mer openings of bonnets show many more
models in pokes. gypsies, and larger round hats
than have been shown yet. Still the mllllners
say that the experience of year ago is repeated.
and that the capote and the snug princesse
bonnets and small fshwife pokes are far pre-
ferred for dressy wear even for young ladies.
For plain giEgham or sateen dresses. basques
are made without lining, yet with all the darts
and forms used in richer fabrics. The seams
must not be raw" or uncovered, but should first
be sewed as if the garment were being made
wrong side outward, then the right sides should
be turned together and by another seam the
edges are covered, as in the English bag seam.
The most stylish collars and cuffs are cut
with square ends. Plain dark red ones are worn
with house dresses. Striped spotted and self
colored dresses are all worm some of those of
red gray linen have bands of gold tinsel
stitched upon them, which are dressy and effect
i've. The tinsel is easily removed when the
linen needs washing. Handkerchiefs are very
snowy, and are sold to match the cuffs and
collars.
The small capote bonnet is the favorite style
to be worn with veils as it fits the head snugly,
and permits the veil to fall in easier folds than
do the poke shapes. For widows the veil is usu-
ally cut to reach the edge of the skirt in front
and the waist in the back. with deep hem on
the front end For three months this veil is
worn over the face, and is worn completely over
the bonnet. When the veil is worn off the face,
short veil of black net succeeds it.
With summer materials and washing fabrics
cross stitch embroidery is becoming again very
prominent Many ladies who have the time and
skilled workers embroidering their lawn
and canvas dresses with bands of cross stitch
embroidery. On canvas nothing is easier, but
unless bands of canvas are sewn over solid
fabric it is difficult to regulate the stitches This
is avoided by having the design traced upon the
material itself with square for every inch. The
needle is passed through the corners of the square
terminating the diagonal, and thus each stitch
must be regular.
In place of white collars and cuffs, velvet
bands encircle wrists and neck; these have more
of novelty than beauty to recommend them.
Ordinary crepe lisse and lace friling are cut of
date, and continue to be replaced by many nov
elites. Bands Of cream etamine, shaped some
what like upright linen collars, embroidered in
cross stitch, with red and blue ingram cotton
silk, are the latest. These are very stylish
Bands of colored satin, just appearing above the
dress collar and below the sleeves are fashion
able, and bands of gauze, threaded with gold or
silver, are very becoming TO the face.
For the morning dresses of housewives, misses
and young girls the housemaid skirt without
drapery is used with the plain belted waist just
described Four breadths of yard-wide muslin
will suffice for this skirt for women of medium
size The front breadth is sloped narrower at
the top, and it may be necessary to slope slight.
ly the parts of the side breadths next the 'front.'
the fullness is massed behind, and the front is
left almost entirely plain. If the material is a
light print or an inexpensive bingham, the skirt
is finished with hem four or six inches deep,
but tucks are added for nice lawns and muslins.