New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-12-20

tion-very like the military salute. Then he folded
his arms-n the East 1t is the sign of humility, not
| of Byronlsm-and awaited my pleasure. To all
questions of mine he answered like an automaton'
and all attempts to break his gravity were quite
| fruitess eyes, can cook, Sahib My name is
Add al Rahlm, SahIb. | am n Mussulman, Sahib.
Yes like being Mussulman, Sahib No, do not
eat pork, Sahb; it is the Accountable" To all
commands Add al Rahim, the Servant of the
! Merciful," would utter mechanical "Achha,
Sahib" tall right. sir, and move away with the
step of grenadier on parade. ! never saw any
ting at all boyIsh in his behavior In fact, he had
never been young. Kumaon is inhabited almost
| exclusively by Ilindus. and they narrow and
bigoted among 1indus. The few NOLAN
medans who hive there not absolutely ILL
treaed indeed they mostly small traders OF else
| in Government employ and are consequently ID
fuentIal But they get the cold shoulder from all
| Their children are cut off from all society. THIS
! lt;le boy mad perhaps never played with other
children his life, he had never known any other
! companion than his stately Old whitc-bearded
! father. Hence he had none of those pretty ways
that make the children in India generally much
more interesting than the grown-up people.
! This was not all my rctinue Every now and
| then in the course Of my days march would see
! three bent and toilIng figures slowly winding UP
some steep hillside IN advance. And when |
reached the hospltable walls of the dak-buGG low
| in the afternoon, 1 always found there three
brown, half-naked fellows. sitting on their
heels and gathered into contracted
circle The cause of this proximity was
| a huge mountain pipe, the long stem Of winch was
| continually fitting from mouth to mouth, While
the great carved bowl rested the gfound and
| revolved peacefully on its own axis. While thus
! engaged my poor coolies looked human, and even
! TO a certain extent happy. While on the march,
they look less like than like some new and re-
mariable kind of camel for they carry the boxes
| on their backs and bend forward like BOYS play
! ing lcap-frog. In most other parts of India the
people carry everything tner heads. anu there are
few sights more interesting TO sculptor than thai
| of muscular Hindu cody swinging along tho road
with hundred ght, more or less, on II head. |
! believe that this way of carrying burdens Is one
! great cause of the remarkable grace of form ara
| motion that charac:erizcs the races OF lnCla.
| especiallv when compare with the MOngolaus fur
/ Their east Even within the limits of India. the
| SnghaleSe in Ceylon. the kandhS OF the Eastern
Ghas and the various races east OF The Bay OF Zen
gal all of whom carry lOais IN banghie' borne on
the shoulder, have nothing like tho beauty OF form
or grace of motion that Distinguishes the lilhdu'
/ And no optImist can possibly make ont any beau
/ ty IN H1maayan porter doubled mp under ms
/ load. The sight of a man doing the work of
1t would he instruct We tor people who believe IN
! human equality and especially for those enthuSi-
! astic English reforners who are Introducing the
| machinery of a republican government into lndla,
70 see these dull patient human cattle, AMI reflect
that nine-enths of the people of india are Just such
| as they.
! On the 10th of September left Almora and on
! the 9th reached ASkot. where have been stay
! ing as the guest OF the kaja one cannot travel
! very fast In the mountains. No one who mas seen
ONLY IN, Alps or the Appalachiius can imagine how
very rough the ilmalayas are. The Who'll" country
! is " on end as 1; were. Nv road from Amora to
! Askot led over the outer ranges of tho iimaayas.
! The peaks here are all under 5000 feet in
| height and are 1T and rounded in outline.
There Is none of the d gnty Ia these hills that the
| black pIno woods of Germany give 10 much smaller
mountains there. The long-lcayct pine ~ IN itself
a beautiful tree and II branch OF It laden with It's
enormous tufts of need cs IS pretty object 10 IN
/ troduce into the foreground of n photograph or
! drawing. But II gives a somewhat pale ami tHdcd
| look u every landscape: It seems - blur the out
lines of the peaks aud round OF any l1ggei points
that might give pct uIcSqie 100" 10 the Whoe.
IN. tree Is one Of the two thugs that lake away
! flnD the pleturesqucnesS OF the Outer limalayas.
! The other is the t"rr'cc system "i cnItlF3 inh
! which everywhere obtrudcs the presence ana III
| dusty OF man and gives an ARTIFICIAL look OF hlgh
| cultivation TO the cOuntrv Inc entire populill'h
! Of thc Himalavas II is a very large onc-ls
supported BY the terrace system OF cultivation. u
is only here, aud perhaps also IN emma, tlat you
! can see mountain thousands OF ir"t higI Hl rom
the cliffs at its summit To the torrent at lis base,
cut into hundreds or lflc She:cs, each level strip
of green ricr-cld. ten feet wlde perhaps, and end
| ing IN a perpendicular wall i've or SIX leet hlgh.
! such q mountain can be seen fro y The Neidnda 81
| the dak bung dow al Almorg or indeed from almost
| any other dak BUNGALOW IN The mountains. ne
labor required for all this II OF course lIhucuse b
! TABOR IS The one thing which India IS rich, ana
! the WORK once done will last FOR centuries.
! The English have confined their efforts IN road
tn "A
roads running up the PRINCIPAL sanai ora, The dis
tamccs being generally short, but the heights as
! ccndcd considerable. and the engineering dlilcul-
ties consequently great. All the others are merely
native paths, sometimes brpa chcd iitle nj gen
| crally bri1qed. They are provoking thn1, to
travel on, their object beng appren'IF y" Rcl from
| The bottom of the lowest valley 10 the top OF the
| highest bil IN sight. and then dp"n INTO the
| lowest valley further on: 80 thai S'ctlOu OF one
| of them would look very Ike the cd-e o. demon
! allied saw. ] believe that the inventors OF these
! roads were the elephants which once aboundel ~
| all this country. was once walking over broad
! beaten path leading over wild unnhabted piaIn
! in SoutheTn Indla, called from Its dscOycTrT Ham
! itOu's Plateau. aud lying between 1OOO ana SOU
| feet above the spa. remarked TO "a Trend WIN
me- surveyor, who had land out most OF The paths
ton TO auO her that tins was the best OF ms roads
thar had yet seen. Alter that there was cool
ness between him and ne, for III TACT TINS
was SIMPLY elephant tTall, ana everywhere
were the great scaOpcd Otpriutsof those animals
where their feet had hattencd down the soii like
the best patent rnad-pJundeTS AitcrWard saw
the elephants several times on these roads, Winding
up distant hill in slow procession Tod by foin" old
and generally respected male or taking their case IN
their fayorte rolling grounds on the upland
meadows, where the grass ~ tranped down over
acres of land by the Young bulls " engaged IN
their rough paStmos, butting at each other with
their tusts. uproOtIug young Sapngs or charging
full init al some projecting stone.
Askot Is little village pcrched on the last pine
clad spur of a mountain lying between the Nall
and the GOri Ganga, the Black and tho White
| Gauges and facing "a long line OF mountains across
the border IN Nepal. On hilltop, above AL the
other houses, stands the white bungalow OF the
Rai1 who has been very Kind to me here. llo Is
| ihe only living representative of the kateyurl
dynasty which once ruled over all this country,
and he belongs to the Solar Race Of kajput kings.