The Portland daily press., 1885-10-02
FASHIONS.
; What to Wear and How to wear il.
Harper's Bazaar.
NEW RONNEnS


ties In millinery, and among these is the new
bonnet, which is made over frame that
comes in two pieces that are to be Joined
down the middle of the crown. The sepa-
rate pieces of the frame are covered smoothly
with velvet, plush, or cloth, then ribbon of
contrasting shade is laid in fine pleats along
the edges and the two pieces are stitched
together through these pleats, thus making
seam down the middle of the crown in
stead of around it. A fine pleating of the
ribbon is then added across the end of the
crown, and this ribbon is extended to form
strings. This simple design is excellent for
dressy black velvet bonnet with ivory
white ribbon used in this way, and high
bow of the white ribbon on top, with some
large cut jet beads edging the brim, or else
merely fine folds of velvet Dressy colored
velvets are used in the same way when con-
trasts of dark and light eolors are liked-for
instance, chaudron velvet bonnet has pale
blue gros grain ribbon for it's pleating on the
crown, its strings, and its high bow; there
four rows of graduated copper red beads on
the brim. Brown bonnets have pale blue
trimmings, dark green have bright poppy
red, and when color is preferred with
black it is either marigold yellow or else pale
blue. A neat and warm little bonnet of
quilted black velvet is an English model for
winter travelling and sleighing. The quilt
ing is only seen inside, the outside is as
smooth and shapely as if made over frame
and the brim is edged with two rows of loops
OF gilt braid The purchaser can trim this
easily at home by adding large bow of
black satin ribbon with gilt picot edges, and
strings OF the same pleated across the end of
the crown. Other black velvet bonnets have
soft pulled crowns, or else they are curved
into horseshoe shape, and the trimming is
the cashmere-colored gauze elastic like
jersey cloth, arranged in curved loops that
give the becoming effect of the Alsacian
bow. .s-s -
The stylish high bows are full and bunchy.
and are shaped more like a half rosette than
q bow. OF ribbon two and a half inches
Wloe SIX loops are made, each being deeper
than the width of the ribbon, and two point
ed ends are added; they are then strapped
closely and set erect just back of the brim ON
top OF the bonnet or slightly toward the left
side. bit of stiff net is the foundation for
holding these loops; birds head and breast
with some wings and tail feathers, rest on
such bows, or else a shield-headed enamelled
pin, or perhaps two quilts of feathers or of
beads in quill shape are thrust through them.
Stlll other cockade bows are made of velvet
OF push CUT from the piece, and punched in
VIII be much used for bunchedup bows on
felt bonnetS and felt round hats.
Flat buttons in the shape of tiny shells are
seWed On cloth or on velvet to make soft
crowns, ana rows OF these are placed diago-
nally over the coronet. Ingenious women
can utilize the beads left over from worn-out
laces or paSsementeries by sewing them in
loops or triangular clusters of three together
at intervals over cloth or velvet for bonnet
crowns. Any good beads will answer for
such purposes, because beads Of all kinds
are worn more than they have been at any
previous season. Flat galloons can also be
used by the home milliner to furnish up
velvet, cloth, or felt bonnet. provided the
material is laid smoothly upon the frame.
These galloons are then laid like two bands
across the bonnet from side to side one be-
ing on the edge of the crown and the other
at the back Of the brim, or else two rows of
the galloons are placed together down the
middle of the crown, and a Single row forms
a binding for the brim.
SMALL GIRLS FRocKs AND APRONS.
Dark cashmere dresses will be used for
children from two to seven years of age, and
indeed, many mothers give up the white
muslin yoke slips when the child is only
eighteen months old, as at that age most
children have outgrown their first short
frocks. For dreSsy wear these dark blue
brown, and garnet cashmeres are made with
half-low round neck and short sleeves. to be
worn over white muslin guimpe, which is
IN Its turn placed over flannel waist that
makes the suit warm enough to exchange
with high-necked dresses. The peasant
dress with full round skirt and short plain
waist remains the simple and pretty fash
ion for little girls. Two breadths OF cash
mere with hem three or four inches wide
form the plain skirt and the new fancy is to
arrange this in two box pleats in front.
while the sides and back are gathered to the
waist usually In two or three rows of shir-
ring. The box pleatS are about three inches
vide, and are deeply folded, so that they
can be pressed to retain their shape the
whole length of the skirt. The short plain
waist is now slightly pointed in front, but is
round behind, and without side forms in the
back. The half-low neck has a lapel two
lnches deep turned over all around it; this is
Sloped open in front, and is finished with a
Welting cord at top and bottom. The sleeves
are very short pointed caps.
Inc Breton peasant dresses are ornament
ca IN 'front.' by two curved open places like
size forms, and these are laced together; be-
tween these lacings down the middle are set
closely together row of small pearl buttons.
and similar buttons are an the lapels and
sleeves, The back of the waist is fastened
by small crocheted buttons, or else tiny
mould covered with the cashmere of the
frock.
Another style for low woollen dresses has
a round velvet yoke that fits low off the
shoulders and dispenses with all sleeves but
those Of the guimpe beneath The sides are
in continuous. pieces from the neck down,
but the front has velvet plastron with full
skirt gathered below it, and the back has
plain waist with the skirt gathered to it.
Bows Of satin ribbon with long ends are
added, one placed high on the left front, a
second on the right sidd at the waist line.
and the third in the middle of the back at the
waist line High-necked dresses are made
precisely in the ways just described, except
the waist is extended up to the throat and
finished with turned-over collar, parted in
front and corded all around. Welting cords
are also seen in the aomholes and around the
waist.
White French muslin aprons are worn
over high-necked dark wool dresses to
brighten them up as well as to keep them
clean These are half-low, and either round
OF. square in the neck, with pointed woke
laid in box pleats only half an inch wide.
Two breadths of the wide muslin are gath
cred to this yoke, and this makes an apron
SO full that it meets behind, entirely cover
ing the dress. Strings of the hemmed mus
lin are sewed in the side seams and tie be-
hind IN large sash bow. pleated stand
ing frill edged with narrow Valenciennes
trims the neck and armholes.