Springfield globe-republic. (Springfield, Ohio) 1884-1887, 1885-07-19
LADIES' TAILORS.
WORTHS RIVALS IN NEW YORK AND
THEIR CUSTOMERS.
Tho Life OF u Ladies' Tailor Not 10 He'd of
Roses building Loveiine.s to
Order FRstil liousnsss
Concerning Fit.


New York Ilerad1
Some twenty years ago there was but one
exclusively ladies' tailoring establishments
in this city. The lady manager discontin-
u"i her business about eight years ago
Since chat time tho number of ladies tailor
ing esta hIiShmcnt' has increased every year,
ani at present there are some II them In
this city which have n great deal Of custom.
Some Of th so ladies' tailors are not only
skilled tailurs, but real artists The dresses
habits, and everything Is left to male hands
except the fitting on, for which several skill
ful women are engaged.
"My life is anything but bed OF roses"
said one Of these ladies' tailors, ono day re-
Gently. "What have to endure from some
women is simply incredible, when it is re-
membcrod they call themselves 'ladie-.' A
woman sailel in one day and gave an order
saying: y don't like your taste. | want SO
and So Madam | replied, you can have
what you want but am quite sure il had
ytur taste | shouldn't have any customers
She didn't mind that sarcasm. Probably
she di mt understand it."
"To what cause do you attribute the
preference for mans work to womans in all
your line of buincss"
ain the first place, men arc bet tor work
mon, and in the second place. their artistic
taste i, superior to that Of women. Womens
taste in drus making l. confined to the ar.
ransem mt Of bows, iounces, ribbons and
pa>scmenterios, and mistt can be easily
covered up in that way. or course n good
deal of patience is required in our business
for ladies' are fastiiiouS. But many OF my
customers have learned by experience that
an artistic tailor is the better judge of what
is suitable, anl leave everything to me but
the lifting on, and for that work engage
several sktlltul women. All my work is done
by men, of whom | employ about lOO."
"iou say ladies' arc faStidious Have you
some experience Of their critical disposi-
tionF
"Somo don't like my style; yet they come
to me. Why don't they make their own
dresses il they know much about i'll One
lady said: You make my cousins dresses,
and don't approve Of thsm.' Neither do
l. madam | answered. IL your cousin
likes colors mixed up can't help it. II you
have a more cultivated eye than your cousin
! congratulate YOU"
allow do you finl American work com.
pares with European work among your GUS
tomer7."
"rhey prefer the American work every
time. | frequently have brought to me
costumes constructed by Worth, OF Paris
TO alter, AMI find on taking Off an orna-
ment or bow that it has boon put on to
conceal an ugly scam. We seem to have
reached tho perfection Of fitting In this
country. ! find the wealthy people hore
have better judgment in tho matter OF
clothing than the same Glass In Europe pos
s,ss, and l am inclined to think It is because
the Americans leave 1t moro to the discre-
tion of tho man who seeks to become an
artist in his profession But the ladies don't
ride enough here, though suppose they
tn iuf in
time"
A visit was recently paid to an establish.
ment whose proprietor might we'll be termed
the Worth Of America. His I rlors are
elegantly fitted up Tho bulk Of the busi-
ness done here consists of riding habits
costumes, reception dresses, bridal trous-
soaus, and coat. Imported goods are used
almost exclusively, but tho desgns are
American.
81 am not exclusively ladies' tailor" said
the proprietor. "but n dressmaker az well,
and employ ladies' to do that part OF the
work. My customers seem to think that the
work done in America Is equally rs good, II
not superior, to tho work of Worth, Pingat
or Felix. in Paris. Having learned my
trade in Paris, | am able TO judge, aud am
certain that tho bettsr, critical Judgment Of
American ladies of fashion has led ~ much
better workmanship in this country. Many
Of tho costumes worn by ladies Of wealth
and fashion in this city at receptions and
balls were made by mo"
"Do you find tho ladies very critical about
cut and fti" asked the reporter.
"Yes, very. They are shrewd, too, and
more particular than gentlemen in ordering
clothes. IL n gentlsman's coat fits tight to
him he is in most cases satisfied. But In
dealing with ladies' we have TO invoke our
art to con ,truct on the most classic lines
Shape has often to be given to figures, and
nature to he concealed where IL Is defective
ami made to conform to the rules OF ATT
Some figures We have to make altogether.
"Tell me what you understand by max
ing up"
Taking the reporter into sido room, the
American Worth exhibited to the reporter q
number OF Hat, round, oDlong, and oddly
shaped pads, some an inch In thickness.
Each ono was numbered. "Now, there l.
con lderabe stu ly required" said the in
formant, "over each Of these shapes.
| call them shapes though you may cal
them pads for have had t.
study tho varying changes in the fig
ures Of my patrons and modify them &C
coriinrly. Look at this ous'-a fiat pioce
nearly half an inch thick and cut in thu
shape of II croscent-"well, that fits into th'
shoulders Of the dresses worn by one OF the
richest ladies in tn, interior of the state
who comes 10 tho city evory month and
then orders riding habits and costumes
from me. That shape was once nearly
twice its present thickness, but AS the lady
grows stouter have to reduce the size OF it
and in tho case Of those who grow thinner
have to increase the thickuess."
"Do you find. then, thaA as ladies' grow
older they are less anxious b preserve thei
shape"
III ladies grow Older they gensralll
become stouter and less fastidiouS. Blu
those who remain scraggy arc worse than
woman at 80, which Is about the worst az
to fit in our business
"A largo portion Of the work done here
made by men. Would you believe 1t, som
of my customers can detect a wonan's wor
ina moment Besides, woman's work o
cloth Is little satisfactory. The women CO
not do the pressing properly, and that " o
essential requisite In ladies' work. hav
trained all my mon TO the work myss
Most of them are French and German. an
only the best Of tailors are employed. To-
my customers exactly what think of thsi