Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-09-27
Cl1Y OF srRAssBURG.
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What do you suppose was the first
thing that McFlatter did when we sailed
tssth On NE morning amer We reached
StrassburHs lie had read 10 his guide
hook that the town vas famous for
pate Dc fose gras. Having not the re-
hottest idea what that was, but suppos-
inx that Il was the correct thing to buy
Il, or look ~ 1t. he entered bookstore
and psssiy sed the clerk BY asking Tor
Il. Whom We took him aside and ex-
planned that IL was goese-liver PIE ne
expresscd remorse, and said that II ne
had known II before nothing would
have induced him 70 ask for it, for oil
all unintsrestipg fowl he deemed the
eoose to be the most uninterestingest.
AZ the Undaun,ed and myself had par
taken Of the eAmy Wand elsewhere. and
had gagged in trying ia. get it down, we
undertook the consumption Of no par
tally decayed goose liver in Strassburg.
On entering the place we saw f!ocks OF
ssess, flock seldom containing more
than twenty birds, driven solemnly
along the road by sleepy-look'ng
peasants. The unhappy geese--or
perhaps they are hsppy--are stun
ID RON morning until night, and ior
. Fortnight or so before being killed
ere shut up in coops, SO that they are
in I fair way to burst with fairness. On
The last day they are given no water,
and when they are killed their hvers
are extracted from reeking masses OF
Al, The goose liver, after this special
ssstsonomic training, is so distended as
70 weigh about two pounds--iully half
the weight Of the healthy human liver.
Il 10 kept until it is little high,
or, in plain English, until 1t has begun
TO rot, before being worked into Strass-
burg pies. never could understand the
sppesits for decaying meat, nor do
go Why il is not as allowable to
eat over.ripe eggs and un'ra-
grant vegetables as it is to eat meat
that has begun to return to its elements.
An artist who lived for some years in
Paris tells me that customer once en-
tered q restaurant where he was dining
and ordered venison. When it was
brought TO the table the customer COM
planned that it was too fresh, whereat
the waiter retired to the kitchen and
produced . haunch of venison with
worms crawling about the recently-cut
end Of it. Tho gourmet grunted his
satisfaction at this proof Of antiquity,
and attacked the meat on his plate with
gusto.
As we neared Strassburg the dark
tower Of its cathedral doomed across the
orchards and housetops, q landmark IN
the scene for miles around, and on ar
irving just outside the walls we saw
nearly a thousand other landmarks
namely, soldiers swimming in the River
Ill. SIassbufg, before whose ramparts
the guns Of conqnering Germany doomed
for over month, cracking the walls of
venerable towers and bursting the roofs
and windows Of the cathedral and old
churches, is g military station of i'm
portance, and has been since the Roman |
empire. Hence the garrison. We took
quarters in a hotel fronting an im-
mepse plaza. Our windows opened on a
balcony that commanded this square
and that was beautiful with flowers and
plants. II we could have gone to that
room and lighted some gas, we should
have felt as though we were living in
. palace, but to have to 60 there with
cheap candles and be charged ten cents
apiece for those illuminations is de-
structiye Of sentiment. We sat on the
balcony in the long twilight, looking
down at our right into brilliantly
lighted concert garden, where an orches-
ira was making the houses echo, and
where comic singers were arousing
the approval Of beer-drinking
audience. The European concert
garden is something that we ought to
have in our country, especially in sum-
mer. One there enjoys the freedom Of
the resorts that falsely assume that
name in New York. without any Of
their vulgarity. The garden is generally
spacious, thickly shaded with fine old
trees, decorated with fountains, statues,
and urns Of flowers. provided with
tables and comfortable seats, and it
furnishes good music and excellent
beer. The audience enjoys itself with
easy enthusiasm, but there is little of
the coarseness and pertness displayed
in our cheaper American resorts.
When the twilight had faded we took
our accustomed evening stroll about the
narrow, winding streets. the Undaunted
gratifying to the utmost his curiosity
respecting the merits of the celebrated
beer Of Strassburg. On the streets
were hundreds Of people in Alsatian
costumes--me with red waistcosts,
high collars, and round hats, and wo-
men with black gowns and big rows Of
black silk on their heads. The exhibit
tion Of these costumes. especially in a
city, surprised us, for the cities
OF the world have become mo
no,onously alike in respect Of dress.
Quaint costumes in this age Of level
ling and uniform tendencies seem al
most out Of place in spite Of the fact
that they are attractive and picturesque.
To an American they at first give a
masquerading character to the crowds
in the streets. and make it appear as il
they were worn for effect and not from
choice, but he soon learns that it is his
own unbeautiful clothes that are out OF
place in the streets Of an oldcity. Ma.
tional costumes are fast disappearing,
however. Even American Indians are
wearing trousers.
In the morning rs we stepped out or
our balcony we saw u crowd Of pea
santry approaching from the railroad
station. They were mostly in Alsatiar
costume or in French blcuses, an,
many wore wooden shoes. Nearly ever,
man carried q bag or satchel or bundle
and they plodded along in detachment
Of 100 or 200, walking four abreast
Az they came nearer We saw that eac
detachment was under command Of
sergeant, and that several guard
with rifles under their arms wer