The Indianapolis sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis, Ind.) 1880-1904, 1885-05-03
FASHION AS 1T FLIES.


apparent than the moral. As the type OF
countensnce, nay. OF form, varies under the
modifying in fiuences OF costume and Gil
mate, so we can be at no loss to understand
the supreme beauty of Greek art and the sen.
suous perfection it typi6es. The Greeks not
only enjoyed an exquisite atmosphere and
lovely scenery, but perceived another kind
of beauty which seemed to them more glori-
Gus than all-the beauty Of the human form,
And having set themselves to reach this, and
having gained it, they gave it their princi-
pal thought and set it off with beautiful
dress. Could one OF the old Greek sculptors
be transported into a modern drawing.room,
he wonld surely wonder less that we have no
better art than we should have any at all.
For the truth stares every thoughtful per-
son in the face. We are daily doing more
and more to travesty the human form snd
set at naught those very principles OF hsr-
mony inculcated by various aesthetic teach
ers with so much yehemence. The modern
dress OF both sexes by no means
cords with the simplest laws OF
beauty, hygiene. and economic science.
And, take it for ali and all, perhaps the d rsss
healthy, and extraysgant than at present
al surely never more vulgarizing.
| Consider the fashion of earrings. Now it
| is obvious that the reason of women mutt
latlDg their ears is not 10 be found in the
circumstances among which we living.
The modern earring of cultivated nations is
a relic OF ruder mental aud moral condi.
tionR, aud though we have outlived the bar
barlsm We persist in retaining the FASH on of
DaIbarians-s case among many in which
| The result of progress has been negative and
not positive. Again, regard lady's toilet
as mere drapery. The eye is tortured by the
multiplicity OF angles lines, and points, and
wbst with the frsgmentary appearance OF
the dress one 10 reminded OF the piece me al
structure OF the animals called artic1late.
Harmony OF color is regarded as little as b sr-
mony OF proportion, and the passion for nov
city has induced extreme wastefulness-
twenty dresses OF inferior stuff are preferred
| TO ole OF rich and artistic material and the
| thought aud care that might devise a reilly
besuuful costume are expended upoa the
manufacture of a hundred uniform rs
they are unbecoming. These cOmmoa.
| place dresses being quickly worn out,
| fashion, the modern 6isyphus, begins i.s
| uphill work by inventing nun.
dred more. Women whose chief business "
| is to dress according to fashion not likely
to interfere with the graver concerns of life;
and In work OF deep and painful interest
lately published by DIR. Politics, of the Uni
versity OF Pha on THE Physiology OF the
Mind" great stress is laid upon the connec.
non OF frivolous pursuits and mental disor-
dels. There is slightly greater disposition
| TO insanity among women than among men,
which is partly accounted for by the bsneful
system OF fen ale education. engendering AS
1t does puerility OF occupation, paucity of
resource, and q habit OF total despondencs.
The writer LOOKS TO the higher education of
women not only as an element of their social
inf licc al ~ ion. Ar,t Of 49,
icsl wtll-beipg, since purposelsss or ill-di.
rected life induces among other ills that
! flesh is heir to, the most terrible OF all-in-
sanity. But let women begin the process of
self-educston by cultivating the ethics of
, dress. This is their empire. Dress, said
HaZlitt, is the great secret of address, and
young women who initiate the socalled
fast" style of Partisan fashion invariably
/ acquire the fast style of speech and manners
also. This is initiated by the lower classes.
TIL even our domestic servants are ashamed
/ 10 wear sober colers and last years bonnets.
extravaganza is the rule, moderation the ex.
csption, among all ranks.
Among the light silk materials there is the
toll du Louvre, new kind OF foulsrd OF soft
hues, sewn as it were in bouquets ever all
/ the fashionable grounds of hevannah, moss,
cress, trawberry OF an intense shade etc.
/ We remarked in general patterns OF natural
tints so softened and arranged as 10 be in
perfect harmony with the ground.
French Fsille in black and every color,
which isnow made with a strong and rather
rough surface, will p az great part in the
costumes for summer, as IL Grapes well aed
makes Oh arming ernamentat;ons, killings,
Tuchings, etc and tsffeta is employed as a
uaDsp parent for the numherless thin TISSUES
which fashion has prepared for our USE
among others plain or figured gauzss, with
curly silk designs forming stripes, garlands,
running flower SHAPES. peas, ETC., We have
seen u Iticolored arrangements IS also sew.
eral shades OF the same color, and they were
in perfect taste.
Chenille TRAININGS will remain fashion,
able, and we shall have chenille embroii
cries, psssementeries OF cheni lie
and Xix, chenille and velvet
or beacs. among others beads cat
with facets which glitter brilliantly, and are
OF all tints and colors.
OrnamentatioDs in stripes of bouquets are
scattered over the foundations of wolfe gr.
sdine moussellne de laine, etc and are seen
with plain stufs OF tie same tissue perfectly
assoitt q in color and some beautiful desi .ns
in chenille were shown Us arranged in stri les
OF different SEES across the bottom OF the
skirt and tune. sgaiD form ing regular STIR pes
or these graduated in size, and becoming
wider spsrt az they decrease.
We shall see much Chantllly and WOODEN
euipufs lace employed for trimmings aud
draperies, over skirts of French failie, bDr-
dered with the same material, with waist
ments TO match.
cHILDREN's AND MISSES HATS.
Infants caps are now made OF Oriental or
OF Nalen clennes lace laid smoothly over sill <,
in preference to the drawn aud tucked mas
lin caps formerly used. For girl babies a
year old there are larger lace caps with a
deep lace curtain and q ruche OF lace ali
asound. These have fer trimming q large
top bow OF old fashioned gauZs ribbon, or
al OH 81 o ~.x n
rerbsps small pink tips OF ostrich feathers
For boys of one or two years are turbans or
else Tim Shsnter caps made of white en-
broidered muslin. with bow of narrow
satin ribbon loops and strings. White wool
lace bonDets for girls of two or three years
are in close cap thspes trimmed with large
Alsacian bow of satin ribbon. Pretty little
pesked brim bonnets of white nuns yelling
or ecru cashmere. lace, or embroidered mus
lin, have the brim shirred and the crown
large and &C ft-lookiDg like puff. Some Of
these are lined with pink or blue silk, and
ho n tndad N N ha