Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1885-07-17
FROM NEW YORK TO CHILL
Sights and Scenes on the Isthmus.

CALLAO, PERU, June 10, 1855.
To the Editor of the Free Press and Times;
Most OF us have been deeply interested
in the wars upon the Isthmus, but think
when we read of the burning of Aspin.
wall we little imagined what ruin and
desolaton it had caused
Our steamer, the Colon" arrived in
Asplnwall early Saturday morning, May
30.
Mr. Copp, a minister from the States.
who is now doing missionary work in AS.
| plnwall, came dow to the ship to see us
and proposed that we look over the ruins.
AS we had an hour and half before
breakfast we decided to use it thus Each
gentleman took an umbrella, for at this
time of year this sun is very nearly directly
overhead, and the heat is intense As we
walked up what was once the principal
street, we now saw only heaps of rubbish,
brick and stone. In some places the old
walls were left standing, but seemed lust
ready to fall and yet, even in such dan
gerous places we saw both men and
women selling fruits and liquors On one
heap of fallen wall lay miserable native
sick with the fever. There he lay exposed
to the burning sun and breathing that
polluted air. We soon came to great
quantities of cOcoa-palms, each bearing
It's burden of cOcoa-nuts. We also saw
the Dread-frut tree the fruit of which
the natives bake and eat as IA substitute
Tor bread. 1t makes u much dryer food,
but II Is more easily obtained and that is
the most they cHre for.
| The Protestant church, and the only
mission church of the place, Is now used
for prison. Mr.. COpp obtained permits
sion tor us to enter and what misery met
us here There We're both male and te-
la ms a h., al,
filled with cots.
In some parts of the city the railroad
track was 50 warped by the heat OF the
IRE that 1t forms Il perfect half circle,
We saw one little Oneand-a half-story
house that had been built since the fire
that rents for thirteen hundred dollars
per month. Everywhere we found relics
OF the f1re, we even walked over the
charred bones of some of the unfortunate
natives who were overtaken by and per-
lshed III the flames.
Some of our party took several bones as
relics but | preferred one "a trifle less
melancholy, 50 | chose burned Bogota
lve cent piece to put with my collection.
The streets were alive with natives, most
of them only half clothed.
AT last, weary with seeing 50 much mis-
cry, we wenGed our way back to the
ship. Our early walk had given us keen
appetite and we did ample justice to the
inviting breakfast placed before us
After having said goodbye to the cap
tam and such passengers AS we should not
/ see again, we took the Ii 30 a. m train
! for Panama
The distance across the Isthmus is forty
seven miles and the fare is twenty-five
dollars.
We stopped at great many little set
tlements-vlllages they are called but
III reality they are only little clusters
of palm covered hutS.
dld not know such amiserable race of
people lived as we saw here. Filth and
dirt and whlskey reigned supreme; at
nearly every hut they sold the latter arti-
Gle. Every one seemed perfectly satisfied
with his mluner OF living. None seemed
TO he at work, all were intent watching
US pass.
We saw where they have been cutting
through for the canal. TO me 1t seemed
as though but Ii tie had been accomplish
en- 50 great is the work vet to be done
We reached Panama at 2.30 p. m. and
took Il hack to the central Office, where we
had to exchange our tickets. The coaches
resemble our rock a-way carriages, save
that these are driven by mules Our
driver was native, who seemed to think
1t was case of life or death if we did not
reach there ut Il certain time He seemed
to take delight i'll lashing the poor mule,
ana Keeping INN in Il constant gallop.
The sidewalks are only about four feet
wide and i'll some places they are so mar
row that 1t Is quite impossible for two to
walk abreast 1t seems to be a custom for
the ladies to dress i'll their best and take
an afternoons ride
The costume consists of a dress skirt
and lace shoulder cape. They wear no
hat or shoes. These women pay the driver
twenty cents for driving them about the
city, and then suppose they 20 home hap
Ply.
Every train leaving Panama or Aspin-
wall Is guarded by soldiers; not like our
neatly uniformed United States troops
but these saw were greasy, ragged and
ShOeleSS.
The old cathedral at Panama is perforat-
ed with port holes, made during the late
Revolution, and some of the finest huild-
ings are riddled with bullet-holeS. We
are now sailing under the English flag on
the steamship "Pizurro."
| sunday, the day alter our arrival On
| board, we had II violent storm and we
| began TO think Balboa made a great mis-
| take when he named tins body OF water
| the Pacific" for we thought if this was
placldlty we should not care to be on it
when it was disturbed Among other
passengers we have Col Roberts, the new
minister to Chill who is on his way to
Santiago. Early Friday morning we
| reached Payta, and there met the Amer
/ can Consul, Mr.. Columbus, vino at one
time resided i'll Burlington, Vt, and
graduated from the Vermont Medical
| University in 1860 He Is native of
Genoa, Italy, and claims to be a lineal de-
scendant OF the Columbus of history. He
inquired after many OF the townsmen of
| Burlington among others the late Dr.
Ihayer, OF whose death he had never
heard We hope to reach Santiago by the
10Th of June, which Will make thirty days
OF sea NONa4lnH A j. IL