The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-06-15
LADlEa TRAVELLING OUTFITS.
Mohair, Canvas and Bison Cloths the Prevail
ing Choice for this Season.

mohalr, canvas and bison cloths are the 1aot1ca
commended for summer and autumn travelling
dresses. Mohair is the general choice, because
1t is graded In such various qualities that 1t Will
be used by those who can travel in palace cars.
and oy those who can pay but 20 cents
yard for their dress goods The sleaziv woven
mohair is preferred. as it is less harsh and stiff
than the close, fine fabric formerly used; its
smooth surface sheds dust, it does not cookie
from dampness. and its weight is sufficient for
warmth, yet is not burdensome at any season.
The better qualities cost from 80 cents to 81 q
yard, and are in fawn shades, clear gray pearl or
dark blue. The w-priced rnohairs are prettiest
in the changeable or mottled grounds, such as
blue with brown or blue with gray, but these are
found in the gray and brown shades. There ara
prettiy made mohair dresses trimmed with rows
of white Hercules braid fer sale in the furnishing
stores for 49, which could be made at home at
much less expense In order to make these
dresses light, a foundation skirt is dispensed
with, and the lower part of the skirt is laid In
large pleats and attached to the gored upper
part which supports the slight drapery The
pleated part may be laid in broad kilt pleats,
four to six inches wide, that are Tapped or turned
under only about inch and a half This
makes the skirt less heavy, and requires less
material A hem four inches deep may finish
the edge of the skirt, or it may have cluster of
tucks above it, or several rows of narrow braid.
A short apron and straight pleated tback drapery
complete this skirt Another design has three
wide panel pleats in front and on the side with
the wide space between crossed by rows of wide
these pleats, turned upward, and laid in folds
to the belt, the back has two large triple box
pleats for drapery. position basque with .
Breton vest, made quite narrow and braided
across in rows, is suitable for either of the skirts
described here. For more dressy costumes vel
vet is used for vest, collar and cuffs, and rows
of velvet ribbon are on the skirt; black, blue, or
garnet velvet is used with grey shades. and
golden brown with fawn color. The fan apron
in leEgthwise pleats from the belt is liked for
these mohairs, that fall best in straight lines
rather than in wrinkled draperies and this
apron may be edged with mohair lace to match,
or have insertions of lace beyond the hem
Tucks across or lengthwise are also effective in
this fabric, and are suggested to neat needle
women who have plenty of leisure for running
tucks by hand. If lengthwise tucks are pre-
ferred. they are only used down, the front add
Sides stopping ten inches above the foot and
Hare loosely as q hounce Horizontal tucks are
| two or three inches wide, and pass around the
entire skirt, which is full in house maid style.
Norfolk jacket waist, with narrow tucks
and the round waist with leather
belt is also used Double aprons are
also tucked, and are made lone shorter than
the other by using the corners of the goods.
letting them drop towards the left side, covering
the front only; they are then finished with
hem two inches wide, with three half-inch tucks
above it.
The rough surfaced bourettes, de bege, bison
various sheer bunting like stuffs are made UP in
designs just given for travelling dresses, and
trimmed similarly with braid, velvet ribbon,
tucks, or very little wool lace. A vest covered
with two rows of wool lace laid on smoothly and
lengthwise is sufficient trimming for any dress
used for travel and for mornings in the country.
The metallic braids are SO heavy looking and SO
apt to tarnish that they are abandoned for these
useful suits.
For misses and quite young ladies the Elton
jacket with kilt skirt and sash drapery is a
favorite style for travelling dresses. The
jacket may be of plain dark cloth of light
weight while the skirt is either striped or
barred In lighter shades OF the same color In
using striped stuff the apron is made with the
stripes across to give a sash effect, while the
skirt and back drapery in lengthwise
stripes. One object in having striped skirt
is that it gives the effects of peats without
their weight. In some cases the plain skirt'isv
lined throughout with thin crinoline and a
foundation. skirt is not used; others prefer q
,gored underskirt made of alpaca of low
priced silk, with foot-peatine of the dress
goods, and the plain striped skirt is then
sewed across this alpaca foundation, beginning
! under the drapery. AS we have said before,
silesia is not liked for skirts, as it cings to the
figure, and is not good support for the outside
skirt The blue and brown flannel dresses worn
by young people last year are again made with
simple kilt skirts and a round waist or belted
jacket. corduroy suit for travel and mount
ain use is made with round skirt, slightly
that is not too snugiy fitted to serve as an over
jacket with other dresses This jacket is much
shorter behind than in front. and is fitted in the
back closely, while its front is slightly loose and
may be single or double-breasted. Another COS
tune popular with young ladies' is skirt and
drapery of checked English homespun in several
colors together-blue with red, brown and green
together-or else with some ecru checks as the
prevailing color, while the position basque as
severe in shape and finish as that of an English
riding habit is made of plain clotl. or serge,
with stitched edges, and some small vegetable
ivory buttons up the front
For those who are tired of vests single
reyers OF the material with which the dress is
trimmed is turned back on the left side OF the
waist from the throat low down on the bust or
perhaps only half way to the waist line; this is
especially, effective made of velvet or of watered
silk, and it is also made Of the dress goods
thickly braided The double breasted basques
also grow in favor for wool dresses that are not
much trimmed.
The most expensive travelling dresses are those
made of the fashionable wool canvas with square
meshes in plain color for the waist and drap-
cry, with the skirt of still more costly fabric,
the canvas striped with velvet or with watered
silk. Ecru, brown, reseda and blue are the
choice coors in these dresses, and their trim
Inings also velvet and wool lace. A silk
waist lining and foundation skirt are necessary
for this transparent goods, and the object is to
dispose the thinner fabric in long lines without
fiounces, and to add watered silk or velvet for
the vest and drapery. Dark blue canvas made
up with merely vest and some panels of wa
tered silk makes a stylish and quiet dress
for travelling. Brides and fashionable
young matrons choose the ecru canvas
with revers and sash bows of garnet velvet, and
long drapery of the plain canvas on skirt of the
same striped with marrow lines of brown, red
and blue velvet This striped fabric is also
effectively used as revers on one side of the
apron overskirt, turning back narrowly in the
middle of the front, and widening as it goes up
wq nd RI hn ms alcah he q a.
vers of the stripes laid over on the back drapery
on the side next that on the apron. long
panel of velvet is seen upon plain canvas skirts,
and sometimes there are 6ounces of plain canvas
Though this is opposed to the rule) on which
are rows of velvet or Of satin ribbon. Pongee
dresses are also made in the style used for
canvas, ant are trimmed with open worked en-
broiderY of the same shade, and dark red or