The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1885-11-21

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/ side of the mules and cheered US on, we
should have been tempted to turn back and
seek shelter at the comfortable hotel at
Martigny, in the valley far below. But
our pathway was one of historic interest.
Over it, in the month of May, 1900, Ma
poleon led his conquering army when it
was then an almost unknown mountain path,
blockaded with the winters SHOWS. The
realization of such an undertaking seemed
almost superhuman. Imagine an army of
such vast numbers transporting their mill
tary stores, camp equi2ages, artillery, ETC.,
through these rocky defles and mountain
gorges The smooth road which we passed
over in the alpine wagon as far as the
Canteen was then inaccessible only as a
mule-path. The sappers and miners that
Napoleon sent in advance to level the rocks,
build rude bridges, and clear the way for
his army was almost an army in itself
Cannon were unmounted and dragged by
the soldiers through the mountain ravines;
wheels and different parts of artillery wag-
ons were transported on the backs of mules;
avalanches of snow were tunnelled, and, at
last. after one of the most wonderful marches
ever undertaken, the grand army reached
the summit of the Alps, and passed down
the other side into Italy. Large numbers
died in making the pass, many fell from
the narrow path over steep cliffs, and others
died from cold and exposure. At a point
near St. Pierre the guide called our atten-
ton to a rough stone building that he said
was built by Napoleon for a hospital while
on that memorable march, and that it con-
tanned the bones of large number of sol
diers who died from sickness and fatigue.
THE MONASTERY REACHED.
At s o'clock the darkness had become
almost intense, and we were still toiling up
path so steep that we should have slipped
back off the mules had we not braced our
selves against the bags of hay that were
strapped behind us, and resolutely grasped
the short name ON the animals necks.
The rain and sleet were still falling, and
we were almost benumbed with the in-
creasing cold. We soon heard a welcome
sound-the barking of dogs-far up above
us, and the guide volunteered the thrice
welcome information that the Hospice was
near at hand In thirty minutes more we
stopped in front of large stone building
the famous monastery founded by the good
monk, ST Bernard, in the year 962. A
cheerful light cleaned out of several of
the windows, which enabled us to find the
entrance, where the guide rang large bell
that was suspended from an iron crane fas
III IT,
two monks, dressed in long black gowns,
tied around their waists with white cords,
appeared at the door and gave us warm
welcome. their faces beaming with good
nature and hospitality. My friend and
myself were so benumbed with cold, and
the drenching rain of our long muleback
ride, that we were almost helpless, and had
to be lifted out of our saddles. But the
monks were so kind They took each of
us bv an arm and led US into room where
they had us exchange our drenched gar
ments for dry ones-gave us warm woollen
stockings and woolen slippers in place Of
the wet ones we had on. Then, after trav-
ersing long corridor, we were ushered into
large drawingroom, finely furnished and
fitted up, where welcome fire was blazing
in large, old-fashioned fireplace. The
walls of the room were finely decorated with
beautiful paintings and engravings and rare
bric-a-brac, which were presents from strang-
ers who had been recipients of the hospi-
talities of this noted monastery. In one
corner of the room was an elegant upright
piano, which was presented by the Prince
of Wales, and therefore highly priced by
monks. a richly-carved harmonium was
the gift of Blumenthal, the composer, and
the several rare and costly paintings in
their richly gilt frames each bore the in
scription of some grateful visitor.
Having become thoroughly warmed be-
fore the blazing fire, and partly rested from
the fatigue of our tiresome journey, the
monks invited us to partake of warm din
ner which had been prepared. The drawing
room we were in was also used as dining
room, and the long dining-table, with sixty
or more chairs placed around it, looked de-
serted with only two guests present. |
asked the monk who waited on us it they
ever had travellers enough to fill the table,
and he said eyes. At this time of the
year there are not chairs enough for the
travellers making the pass from Switzerland
to Italy, and from Italy to Switzerland.
Often we have two dinners to serve, one
after the other, and occasionally have as
many as 130 or 40 visitors arriving the
same day, who stay with us over night"
AT EARLY MORNING MASS
Our dinner consisted of soup, stewed
chamois, roast kid, plenty Of red wine, and
a dessert of figs and nuts. The monk in
formed us that the chamois we were eating
was shot among the mountain peaks, not
far from the Hospice, the morning of our
arrival Soon after we had dispatched our
dinner with keen appetites, we were shown
to our sleeping-room, a monk leading the
way through gloomy corridors up stone
staircase to the second floor, where we were
ushered into large chamber with four
alcoves, each containing a single bed. The
furniture of this chamber was of the most
primitive style, but everything was scrupu-
lo4sly neat and clean. With plenty of
warm blankets, and under a down bed which
was furnished each of us, we slept soundly
and without experiencing any discomfort
from the intense cold, Notwithstanding the
temperature was below zero. At an early
hour in the morning we were awakened by
the barking of dogs under our window and
the tolling of bell in distant part of the
monastery. Getting Up and scratching the
thick frost from the wihdow-panes, we saw
dozen or more of the full-blooded famous
St. Bernard dogs that were playing with
each other like so many kittens on the rocks
outside. The evening previous one of the
monks informed us that the monastery bell
would ring at o'clock for early mass, and
wishing to be present, we hurriedly dressed
and found our way to the chapel, in dis
tant part of the building. Services had
already begun. The rich, impressive voices
of male choir were blending harmoniously
with the tones of an organ, played by a
master hand Although it was so early in
the morning, there were over a hundred
persons kneeling before the altar, devoutly
saying their prayers. Among them was a
band of Piedmoptese gypsies in their weird,
grotesque costumes, whom we had over
taken between Liddes and St. Pierre. The
chapel, which is of large size, is one Of the
finest in Europe. The ceiling is beautiful