The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1885-03-29
DOWN In THE SOUTHLAND.
Looking in Detail at What Is To Be Seen
at the New Orleans Exposition.
No Occasion for Grumbling - The Literary
Department of the ShOw-LiyiDg and
Eating in New Orleans.
correspondence Of the Indian apolis journal

in the form of cloud and hang over the city,
the inhabitants wouldn't see sunshine again for
fifty years, so deep and dense would be the
darkness There is large class of people in
the world who would-to newly set an old say
ing-rather grumble on credit than be pleased
for cash; and this disagreeable kind of indiyidu-
al has descended in horles on New Orleans and
the exposition To them, it is so muddy, the
street-cars run so slowly. things dear,
nothing tastes like it does at home and so forth
and so on, to the intense disgust of all who are
inflicted with their complaints 1t is very true,
New Orleans is not 'like home" to any North
erner. If twas there would be no inducement
to come here, and people who cannot be happy
unless things are as they are at home, ought to
stay at home, and not murder the enjoyment of
those who come prepared to regard everything
in the light of gigantic picnic, to be pleased
with everything whether or no." and complain
of nothing short of having to stand all night in
the hat-rack. The Crescent City is no
place for pernickity" people to visit
Her highways are always passable, but
her byways are dreadfnlly muddy
If her countenance is somewhat dirty it is new
ertheess picturesque, and picturesque things
are always dirty. If living here is expensive, it
should be remembered that novelties are always
dear. If the cars slowly, the visitor has a
better chance to view leisurely the beautiful
homes, with their riotng vines, their orange and
magnolia trees If food doesn't taste like that
you find at home, so much the better. The pal
ate likes change. and you will appreciate your
home the more when you get there. New Or
leans is doubtless reaping harvest from the
presence of so many strangers, but she will
surely draw sigh of happy relief when the fair
is over and the growing crowd has dispersed.
1t is hardly possible to draw breath in New
Orleans without being entertained. The front
gate is locked. and has bell on its outer wall
The visitor, the postman, the butcher, the baker
the candlestick maker all have to ring this bell
before gaining audience with the inmates of the
house The dsner comes to this gate in buck
cts, borne by various French women in various
stages of waning beauty and waxing LONELINESS
All these vendors seem happy, and treat you to
real Partisan shrugs as you look over their
wares. With soup-bone is offered a 'soup-
bundle" viz goodly chunk of cabbage tied
up with a slice of turnip, carrot, parsnip
and onion, picturesquely garnshed by sprigs
oysters, fish, and all things edible accommo-
datingly ring the BELLS walk into the pot. and
then on the table. If a justified complaint can
be registered against anything here, the oyster
is the guilty man He is entirely too big. ana
has to be dealt with in sections. The ideal
oyster ought not to demand investigation, but
suffer himself to be swallowed in statu quo and
no questions asked. Whose cultivates the oys-
ter to size which precludes his instantaneous
disappearance, a la toboggan, has interfered
with one of natures grandes. arrangements,
and should be excluded from all respectable com
munities. While on the subject of eating-a
subject which unregenerate man cannot ever
neglect entirely-the fig is entitled to special
mention. 1t rpens here in June, and the ma
tves tell narrowing tales of its delightfulness as
Southern delicacy. dish of figs, peeled,
sugared, allowed to stand several hours until
they have formed jelly then eaten with
suggestion of lemon juice, is said to be the
very quintessence of deliciousness, and calcu-
lated to make the epicure's hair stand on end
with joy. Preserved figs appear often at lunch,
and are good enough for those who have never
met them in their bloom of youth The French
part of town we have always with US, and
a saunter down any one of its quaint streets is
unfailingly entertaining. The queer one-stor;ed,
yellow succeed, tile-roofed stores and houses
are odd enough Doors and gateways stand
open and you catch interesting gimpses of the
backyard life, which, Bret Harte says, is
ALWAYS sincere" Filthy places, which suggest
cholera and yellow fever; clean yards, with
painted brick pavement; violet borGered flower
beds; cats doing peacefully, and children play
ing about Everywhere there is somebody sit
ting down. Sitting down is the most popular
pastime in this part of the country and it is in
evitably contagious. In every other doorway in
French town some Uncle Remus or Daddy
Jack basks, or some Aunt Tempy smokes the
pipe which means peace to her if it doesn't to
any one else The men with hand-carts for hire
the peanut and candy man, the violet woman on
the corner, the knife and spectacle man, the
cane vender are never caught standing up. It
is not laziness, as the uniformed may harshly
deduce; it is dose clinade" and can't be helped.
This is the true land of the lotus. Here it is al
ways afternoon, and ready made sestas are kept
an air of ''no rush. pervades everything
Even a far.of carpenters hammer
taps deliberately the tvmpanum,
and the creole hen, who has just laid creole
egg in our creole neighbours back yard, an
nounces in very leisurely United States cackle
that she thinks she ought to have double credit
for so distinguishing herself when the tempta-
ton to be idle is so seductive. Lettering on
through French town, if you get as far as Jack
son square it will be time to sit down. in your
inclinations, and the seats in the square will be
gladly welcomed. When you have taken in the
equestrian Statue of General jackson, and the
long red buildings on each side of the square
which the Countess Pontalba gave the city years
nadJ tod II
tack the old st. Louis Cathedral, which is just
behind you. 1t is closed in front, but police
man directs you to the rear You walk down a
cool, stone paved alley to back door, enter and
slip into seat. No services are in progress,
various affairs. Real water trickles down over
imitation rocks at 1.-THE altar of Lourdes and this
water is said to have been brought from that
sacred place Fine frescoes ornament the cell
ings, and stained glass enough is here to drive
nnathatica frar xuit Paintiaus hanrx ~.