Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-10-25
FASHIONS FANCIES.
DRESSES FoR COLD WEATHER

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b, ,yus sus,r,, Embrstaersa ciesss. Pfash.
Velvet, &e.
Harper's Basar. IN lis current issue,
says: The fashionable modistes who
remained latest In Paris and London IN
search Of novelties have confirmed the
return to plush and velvet, and the
preference Of wool for day-drcsses for
the street. They are now busy pre-
psring winter outfits consisting Of Eng
lish homespuD tailor-made suits for
morning; more elaborate cloth cos
tunes, with embroidery or fur trim
mrngs combined with velvet or plush
for afternoon visits and for church !;
costumes OF velvet or plush for day re-
ceptions trained dresses Of velvet and
Bengaline for dinners and evening en-
tertainmenrts, with ball-dresses Of tulle,
.wathefed silk, and satin.
HoNEsPuN SUITS
The homespun suits are in the sim
plest tailor styles, entirely Of one ma
terial, with no triming other than
stitched edges and some very large but
tons. The fabric is rough-sarfaced
wool. either plainly woven or N wide
diagonals, and may be either plain
brown or lead color, or else in blocks
or stripes, or fiecked with white like
the snowflake cloths so popular IN Eu-
rope. The skirts have plested fronts,
side panels, and long back drspsry OF .
single breadth Of the fabric pleated 70
the belt across two Of its four sides,
making the pointed effect intzOduced
last winter sometimes deep sYron is
arranged 10 the same way. The large
metallic buttons are used on the skirt,
from six 10 eight being set at wide ID
tervals down each side.
Another new fancy on these as on
other skirts that are in pleats and pan
els, instead Of having drspery, is that OF
having large side-pockets Of the material
set on each hip these are almost ample
enough TO take the place Of paniers, as
thev are ten inches wide and about siI
inches deep; they are stitched all around
with wide hem or turned-oEer tap
at the top, and on this flap are three
large buttons Of metal or Of colored
bone. The basque is the plainest pos
tilion, with small buttons up the front,
rerers turned back, and three large but
tons set each side on the upper part OF
the revers. At present this gown Is
worn on the street without wrap, but
later on it will need small jacket or
long ulster TO give sufficient warmth {;
either Of these garments can DO made Of
the dress goods. but the English fashion
is to have this negligee wrap OF heavier
homespun in checks, blocks, or stripes.
using this garment with various dresses.
The navy-blue diagonals and other
serges worn by young ladies who object
to the sober gray or brown hOmespuns
are trimmed with smooth mohair braid
not heavier than that used for skirt bind
ing, but wider about an inch and
half in width. and passing
in many rows around the lower skirt.
but only showing at intervals under th.
very long drspery on the front and
back either red or black braid may be
used on blue. A pretty pleated jacket
with belt and hood completes such
suit. This suit is within the means OF
the economist, ss the fabric is Inexpen-
siye, and it may be made up over an
alpaca foundation skirt. The amateur
dressmaker is reminded that it must be
made In very plain and simple style
to be Ii good taste. and that its ch2rao-
teristic features are its long drsperies,
wide pleats. the absence OF tounces,
and the perfect fit Of It's short position
basque.
BAsKET-CLoTH, CAMEL L's-HAIR, ETC.
Basket-cloth costumes combined with
velvet are more dressy than those Of
homespun, and are suitable for brides
travelling dresses and for young ladies
TO wear IN the afternoon. Olive. brown,
green. and dull-red are used for these.
with velvet or plush TO match or IN con-
Iacb. 4Auc rcAf-OIONu DaShtt-C4o@u
is over green plush skirt. and the
short jacket may be Of plush also. India
camel 's-haIr II fswn-color and brown
shades is used IL such costumes for
long polonaises. bordered with wide
plush galloOns. OF with a border woven
IN the came 's-hsir, opening over q
skirt of dull-blue velvet or of brown
plush.
EMBROIDERED CLOTH COSTUMES.
Fine smooth brosdcloths embroidered
with silks and beads and cords are
among the most elegant fabrics import
ed for visiting costumes; they come in
opened designs Of cut-work richly
wrought IN borders on the selvedge. or
In breadths for front or side panels. aud
are made up over velvet. plush, or
MORE. with fur trimmings. Waistcoats
OF velvet decorated with beads
and cords, IN braiding designs,
are imported resdy-made to com
plete basques Of these rich cloths.
Fur In lengthwise rows is seen on
the front and sides Of cloth skirts. while
that on outside coats is confined 10 the
front and back IN lengthwise rows.
Beading Oh these cloths Is \ new fea-
ture that supersedes braidins for the
more elaborate and costly costumes.
Either capes or Jackets may be used for
these suits, but the newer fancy Is for
the Cspuchin mantle. which Is a cape
that sets close behind but falls loosely
outside the arms II front. and has
monks pointed hood, or else the cloth
is cut IN TWO dropping points from the
back Of the neck down on the shoulders.
PLUSH, VELVET, ETC.
Costumes entirely OF plush for the
gown ana mantle are imported In the
new plsm5 gray shades, seal brown and
black, and are trimmed with beaded
psssementerie and fur. This fabric ad-
mits but little trimming, which Is
usually confined to the waist and man
tie, while the skirts are long draperies
that form both skirts IN one, opening
low on one side or On both 10 show >
simulated lower skirt. One OF the most
elegant models is Of mouse-color or OF
plonb gray plush, with the only
contrast Of fabric or color shown
IN the vest of male rose or Of darker