New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-04-30
THE FASHIONS.
SILKS AND sArINs FOR SUMMER WEAR.

AMERICAN FABRICS-RlBBONS--BRi' CADEs-PAkA-
SOILS. THEIR COVERING. TRIMMING AND EAN-
DIES,
American women are gradually coming TO
comprehend that In past they have paid two prices
for imported black sk-one Of the important items OF
the warlrobe-wfch whether robe or wrap. after few
months into the fatal shiny" gloss, crack or
fray for which there remedy This from the
action OF the soap aka iron. wood, soda potash
the load being too heavy for the ue threads 70 carry
The American silks aud broeades will instantly crisp
when burnt leaving only charcoal. The heavily dyed
foreign goods will shoulder to yellowish greasy ash
Tbs American silks exceedingly durable and their
sofness and arensurpassed yet they are sold az
one-haf the price OF foreign silks With all the changes
Of fashion, IL Is understood fact that no wardrobe Is
complete without one or black silk tolettes One
OF the latest designs of the American silk manufacturer
is ieotne inDris The surface is precisely similar IN
wool and welt to the finest Jersey cloth small white
figures the black ground at regular intervals this
is also shown in all shaies Of popular coors other
styles softer silk fabrics OF the foulard finish
weave, aud handsome block figured armures are
among combinations for the palmer materials
The new satin duch1sse possesses oil the
lusro and finish of its foreign rival in black eiet blue
charreuse. absinthe, and other delicate creamyyeow
shades woodcoors charres and other blue tints sage
myrtle olive and other green's Satin Rhadames and a
charming satin foulard the newest successful
American experiments. The latter has soft iustrous
surface covered with flower and leaf design exqustey
stamped like pen and lax drawing In cool RELIEF, Tor
example, of wood color a creamy ground The Amer
lean surahs In charming woone eoors and In
plain shades besides for adaptation In the fashionable
combination costumes
1t difficult to distinguish the American ribbons from
the foreign They in widths of frc twelve inches
to two and a half and with harmonious bendings OF
pads AMI stripes and all the new shades, pale ecru,
rosy garnet, the "blue playing into the green and
gold poppy red Aurot vivid red glow like sunset;
An0iquerosee delicate pink changing into still more
delicate green tint Some OF the ribbons Of trans
parent. wide striped grenadine and others An ole
fashion lately revived Of gauze dotted and striped
with satin silk and small loosely wovOn flowers
BROCADE DESIGNS
Foreign designs are introducing into tho magnificent
silks brocades taota brocaes repped and three toned
grounds ardinere designs copied from old silks from the
Palermo looms the fashions of Saraccnc textures o.
one style design OF lattice work over which
wander in careless grace large crimson howers AMI
shaded foliage outlined and waited with gold thread On
another the tawny ground Is covered with vine
bearing small curled serratod olive leaves and pale blue
flowers. Sknd satins reproduced OF the gorgeous
medieyal period heavy with gold tinse wrought into
the brocaded designs. These fabrics made for summer
accessories to the toilette with the plain silk or
satin are naturally lighter than those adapted for win
SILK and satin brOcado. two toned have snch de-
signs aud cOors shades OF aLsinthe, red upon
gray TWO S1aloS OF daua OIuepuIPo Boiu uPon kiOch
wood shades. or many OF the popular shades OF reh
amber and gilt and buds glowing upon cdfe NOR
Tn appear IN the figured surahs Of olive and
guldc grounds shading into red lulnlneu win
halfLown and graceful foliage these are dupli-
Gated on all other roloied grounds superb DlacK oro
ca led satns have designs 0htlihsd VITA goa nse anu
also gold cOOred silk These are Duplicated III tne Iash,
onabe coors suGh as rea eer deer 's pur9S n nn
on plain ground. Some delicataly beautiful
gaof silks are embossed with gold. silk aud pic ngurs
Of different color. mostly mouse color or pearl tness
grounds changeahle. ON another god eInboSsed
has unique stys showing larger figures In rise OF
Eeur de ls framed in half circle ant several oars;
obese ccme In all the handsome dark shades; ~
Brocade velvet uf blue. grass green, olive dahls
pure yellow, golden rod AMI straw color has lse designs
Ike the pyramida foliage OF III es ferns, spiked ronds
OF palm serr"ted loayrs anu LII san
pretty satin surahs are dotted over Win sua
white moons, shaded Ovals aud bright little VIA MOVERS
scattered over grenadlne gruunds largo figures OF
fern or tas~elcd oAtkns IN sb M there are as) Jrle
stripes AID large quaint figures on other grenadines
Black grcnadinc armurcs glitter with cut jet woven In
the nicshes In large odd designs. a.,
suEs adle 70 black silk with charming ohect ior
instance In the way OF pesto1 ,b SeS r,ror rUr
Where the two fabrics have the same cOred ground the
figured used for the vest on the SKIRT ana y tle ara
pcres ut discretion The basque front Of Grapcry or
apron. ana the hack drapery ar5 made OF tho plain
eject OF uniting the two fabrics depends upon the taste
OF the the MODESTO Fine gray chuadahs Orer
perfect ground for the display OF color In costume in
tie way OF combination VITA ELK the effect of rib
hons aud they frequently Embroidered IN self colors
or IN dainty natural SHADES.
There f. important change IN the shaping Of the
now parasols this season There Is perceptble differ
enco In tho ribs that rather iater than the de-
oided curve OF last year. The pagoda shape ap-
pears again. One Of these is covered with beige
coore srah and rucs OF Oriental lace knot OF cerse
velvet ribbon decOates the top the handle is Of oak
twisted I'm antique designs Of rings. The young and
tender woods such oak ash, African bamboo, Wild
cherry or fragrant weiohsel palm fibre, and Others
tied In knots twisted ia all manner of fan
cful shapes. frequently in ring large enough
TO pass over the hand while green, and left
In that state until perfectly hard and dry then
mounted for paraso and umbrella handles Some creamy
white satin covers have dainty little white lace
nuuce inside just beneath the top the outside presents
fluffy graceful OF nounces OF creamy white lace
with design Of fruit In its mesLes Two rows Of ORR
ent and wide Ounce on the edge Is very grace
tI and becoming finish to another style with handle
Of irish furze white suruh canopy top is trimmed
with two rules OF black and white lace, ad three below
with separation between TIE two OF rules show
n,y ihe fabric kuot with ends OF black and white
velvet Is fastened at the top; me handlc
stye Of white satin has uted barb OF .he each
brcadth tho edge Is trimmed With wide houEce Of
spanish Escurl lace; the beautiful carved handle is OF
satin wood 6elicaicy stained. cream coOredc yer OF
sal is covered all over WIN piece lace OF spanish
India silk Is embroidered over with oval spots outlined
| with black the handle ia ebony. The foulnrd
India rod SIX Paa %StS SoN sSid d red violet and
rod polka spots; color with the odd semDlaso OF
the shahs signature others IN changing coOrs, bro
aJc1 ard embroidered pongees with olive wood hsn-
dies 0nalntly carved Pur lace. an American manutac-
turo forms one OF tho Handsomely or the many lace
coysrs nor are tnsel aud gold lace FORGOTTEN IN the
nrrsrnt rge for all that partakcs or Oriental speniOr
Parasols OF black satin covered with SILK Pomadour
lace made covers also with black Spanish aco Gounces
There are others watercd silk and brocades as well as
| the cham eable colOrs. 49,
I'm addition TO the wood handles there are exquisite
kpobs cameo glass; the glass OF dark amber color the
res carved in relief OF pale lavender aud reese color
Diners are porcelain painted by nand IN floral designs
silver knobs arc deliberately carved In repousse Others
Initiate stag horns In silver. Cut crystal balls, silver
nntet oyas and plain FURNISHED silver profile heads and
horss-shocs wCh a snake gracefully coiied about make
! up the newest ideas In parasol hahdes anu uecor"
| ton. -. ,,.,,.o.. =, ~. 7, =
| Denning & Co., and Belknap, fowen X JOHNSON VIII