Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-04-04

Is that OF leaving the edge OF the dress next the
| skin without the soft intervention of lace or
| tulle. There is perhaps one woman one
| young girl in an hundred Thousand who can
stand this close contact with hard, dark and
| unsympathetic materials, but not one who is
not improved by lighter lines and gentler In
| huence next the skin.
| HOW SPRING GOWNS ARE MADE.
| The Worth costumes which have been seen
this spring are made without drapery or loop
| ing. The skirts hang in folds at the back over q
| very moderate tournure, which is removable
and consists of a small hair cushion or "mat-
| tress," as it is sometimes called for cloth and
heavy silk, or light spring "improver" but
toned into the back of the founced petticoat fol
| lighter dresses.
A combination costume in plain smoke and
| velvet figured wool shows perfectly plain skirt
| which hangs in large folds at the back and has
| no ornamentation except straight side panels OF
| the figured materials enclosed in fves in stripes
high waist and sleeves are of the figured mate.
rial, Swiss bodice of plain velvet completing
| the costume.
| A dress of ecru vicuna is embroidered all over
| with shaded leaves in brown chenille, and
finished with little Persian jacket of soft, fine
p od a IN IL saade 81 s eae
| In material from the dress, and very stylish
costumes are made of brOcaded velveteen with
pointed bodice of pleated Surah, a beaded plas-
tron and a strip of the Surah covered with the
beading let in an insertion into the sleeves of
brocaded velveteen the length of the arm:
| The late textures and designs in the Nonpa-
| reil are so rich without being heavy, and have
so much the appearance of silk velvet, that they
can be and are worn by the most fastidious,
while the plain are especially desirable for MAX
| ing up as skirts and with wool, because more
serviceable and less susceptible to the influence
of weather than silk velvet.
A DRESS OF BLACK SURAH,
| mounted on thin twilled silk lining has a
| pleating round the bottom; straight full back
very slightly draped at the sides, and front
draped across in irregular folds. On one side
are some loops of satin ribbon, on the other a
cascade of handsome Pusher lace, which is re-
vived this season, and when of good quality is
fair imitation Of chantilly The bodice cut in
two short points front and back, with a full
LEAKAGE of lace at the back, has lengthwise tucks
and a cascade Of lace in front in addition to the
standing collar of narrow folds finished with
interior lace, the sleeves matching.
A pretty house costume for girl consists of q
skirt Of red wool, striped three times round
above the tucked hem, with black ribbon vel
vet. The overdress is of red wool, also perfectly
shaped over the waist and hips and a medieval
bodice, outlined with the Velvet and serving
also for border. A velvet pocket is also fas-
tened to the left side.
this season, is closed at the throat, open to dis
play the vest or full muslin or lace shirt but
cut straight round in line with the waist, or
TO cover the upper half of the belt. This is newer
than the cut-away or ZOuave jacket-and more
becoming. 1t should be made in a handsome
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. silk plush SATIN or fine cloth
lined with satin and edged with pearls or gold
beads the size of peas, or with cut garnetS, or
several rows ofnarrow real Japanese gold braid
worn over thin white or black dresses, over
cream lace tOilettes, and will conveniently
enrich simple summer dresses at hotels and
watering place dinners and dances.
BLACK AND WHITE LACE DRESSES
Black and white lace dresses the majority
beaded, are in greater request than ever young
girls wearing them freely as older women
The new designs show entire beaded fronts and
sleeve; skirts full and straight at the back and
plain or full bodices with skirt or vest fronts
dad
hounce of the silk in clustered or plain knife
pleatings, the lace falling over the top, but in
Others the folds OF lace extend the foot of the
silk foundation at the back, the flounce protect
ing only the beaded edge of the front.
Among the novelties in materials are fine,
beautiful woods accompanied by clustered
stripes in shaded velvet as trimming. Used as
straight bordering it looks like a blanket and
care must be used to avoid this effect. The best
or make panels of them, with perhaps straight
strip across the lower front, and the stripes put
together TO form narrow vest. They are also
used for the cuffs and standing collars, but as
the width admits of only two of the stripes being
used for these purposes, they can be put on
straight without detriment.
The embroidered costumes reappear, and con-
sist of n very deep flOuncing, which, by edging
with fine or seven-inch knife pleating can be
from the plain material used for the bodice and
apron or hip drapery-twO widths of embroid-
cred trimming to match being employed for the
complexion OF these parts Of the costume.
BEAUTIFUL TROUSsEAU
An imported trousseau, recently arrived from
Paris, copies in some respects that of Miss Eva
Mackay's, and is considered by far the most
beautiful and uncommon bridal outfit ever seen
here. The chemises Of fine linen cambria are
finished in the same way, without hem, band
or sleeve the shape easily fitting the BODY and
the edges cut III a she'll pattern and exquisitely
embroidered at the foot as we'll as at the neck
and sleeves Below this festooning upon some
are rufhes of exquisite Valenciennes lace while
others are Ornamented with the embroidery
alone.
Half dozen of the night dresses are in white
surah with Naenciennes lace trimming and
much fine embroidery. Each one has wat
teau plat in the back from the neck to the
foot.
The cambria gowns are ornamented with
quantities Of delicate tucking and needlework
but no lace. Among the features of the trous-
seau are short costumes of white and pale brown
etamine, the fronts covered with a new fine
wooden guipure made like the beaded fronts,
combination fabric embroidered in a small
what might be called coordination" figure
Ihere were many handsome short dresses
one of cream embroidered with pale gold in an
all-oyer Arabesque pattern upon the jacket and
a sr woe sue panel OF the skirt. Every costume
and, 1t was said, by silken hose and other de-
tails.
SPRING WRAPS
There is nothing new in the small ietted and
cloth wraps imported or manufactured for
spring wear. They are very dressy-either COW
cred all over with jet or have jetted sleeves and
have draperies of lace The lace is not real
even upon wraps at $50 and 500 each, but O.
clever imitation of chantilly, the veining and
outlining only being little more wiry The
BODY part OF the wrap is very small and forms
either q visite or mantelet; but flow of lace at
the back and often upon the shoulders. some
times forming f1ounced Sleeves adds to the ap-
pearance of size. There are also elegant little
wraps made OF a rich and lustrous black silk
ana trimmed with Observation-Disclosures of silk and
ct and bordering of ruffled lace. The ietted
grenadines, made in the piece, are applied both
dresses. When used for wraps the body part is
often made of dull satin or satin rhadames
satin is TO be used in conjunction with jetted
lace and grenadine very largely for elegant
costumes, the dressmakers say.
Inc cloth wraps are not left out by anymean
put they are mainly in ecru tints with trim
ming Oh chenille fringe or passementeries stud
oelusion and snare. They drop, in more
senses than one, and leave little ends hanging
fOriOrn.
AN INAUGURATION BALL.
We hear much of the extravagances Of admin.
fstrations. Perhaps it would sometimes be as
well to consider their economies, where they
come In and the effect they have upon our rep
resentation as a people. 1t is perhaps to be ex-
pected that In the capital of a nation like ours
poverty should elbow affiuence the mansion
sideways upon poverty, decent or united with
squalOr, as the case may be. It is also quite
natural that at the Inauguration ball of a new
administration, which represents the people or
all sections and conditions, that coats the worse
for wear, rusty boards. and red cotton pocket
HON n b IsAT. r1.<x,.lx 4 4