Morning journal and courier., 1885-10-07
The Latest Fashions.
FroEl the New York Times l

lFrorl the New York Times.l
 New suits of striped goods will generally have underskirts of striped fabrics, either silk or woolen, without trimming. The same material serves for panels and revers on the tuniques and for the waste trim mings. When dresses are composed of plain goods such sicilienne, faille, bengaline, and Satin de Lyon" these striped trim mings very suitable. If the body of the dress is of fancy woolen goods, then plain Woolea goods this season are beautiful, par ticularly those in dark shades. The shades of brown, especially seal and ''suede," make very stylish worsted toilets when simply trimmed with u little ''moire'' or velvet. Almost all trimmings used during the au- tumn and winter are to be flat. Balloons and embroidered bands are most prominent among them. Skirts will have bands of vel vet eight, ten and twelve inches deep, and in the color of the dress. Draperies falling straight down the back are again in favor, particularly with redingotes, panel trim mings and large bows Tuniques opening in redingote style will allow of many fancy pieces and great variety of ornaments. There are already aprons covered with rows of galloon and with kind of galloon net work. A chestnut brown worated suit has this passementerie in open work in the color Of the dress and worked over with gilt thread. The gilt work is very light and not too strong, as there is piece of plain passemen- terie about four inches deep between each gilt band. On either side of the apron is a panel piece arranged in three wide flat plaits. The drapery in the back is drawn together near the puff by a ring of brown and gold passementerie. The waist has small basque cut in squares, each square being joined by inserted faille pufings. It opens over vest covered with brown and guilt passementerie. The same trimming is on the collars and cuffs. The small basques just described and basques with hoops sewed around them are already to be seen on a number of dresses, and arepuite an acceptable change after the much-abused pointed waists trimmed with narrow pipings and bias folds. Costumes of very fine alpaca and mohair are again in use. Their effect depends altogether on the shade of the goods they are composed of Mushroom -colored English alpaca and faille in the same shade make one of the most be- coming of these suits. The faille skirt has narrow plating of the same goods, which shows very little, as it is covered by an al- paca unique. The front of the unique starts from the right side in 8 gathered piece of goods, and is taken over to the left, where it reaches to near the lower part of the skirt. On this unique are revers of velvet in darker shade of brown. These are wider above than below. The back of the unique is draped. The jacket is open down the front and has single button in the neck. The finely plaited satin guimpe in the color of the dress turns up on the lower part in loop, and is fastened around the waist by a narrow tied sash. Velvet is only placed on the collar of the jacket, the remainder of the garment being simply stitched around.
 A very simple walking suit is of striped woolen goods and fancy galloon. The skirt is striped diagonally and plaited full to the inches deep. This galloon has a rough sur face. The apron of the same goods as the skirt has the stripes taken diagonally the other way. It is plaited to the belt and raised on the left side over the hip, like revers. This raised part is bordered with width of the band on the skirt. The back is draped in a puff. The stripes of the waist are also bias, ths goods being taken diagonalIy down either side. The small pointed basque IS bordered with worsted balls. broad belt of galIoon is taken around the waist and sewed in & point in front. The same galloon is taken down in a point from the seam on the shoulder and reaches to the middle of the breast. The straight collar is covered with galloon. The tight fitting sleeves have pointed cuffs of galloon. A visiting dress for autumn wear is of reddish brown French faille and fancy bronze velvet dotted with brown. The false skirt is covered with two large panel-shaped pieces of velvet. These open in front to 
 of the faille skirt is arranged in large box plaits. A piece of faille is taken below the waist like baby scarf. The scarf forms on the right side small end turned over like a plaited loop. The faille waist closes by faille band underneath. It has double vel vet revers. Revers are also taken crosswise on either side of the basque and lay over the scarf. The tailor back has two box plaits lined with velvet. The straight collar is of velvet. The tight-ftting sleeves have velvet cuffs. The capote matching this dress is baby shape and covered with bronze velvet. Around the brim are large green beads. In front is a large metallic black-bird. The strings are of ribbon velvet with very short ends.
 A very useful small garment for demisai- son wear is 8 pelerine with or without loose sleeves. It is often very simply trimmed, and may even be without trimming. One model has small point in front and 8 loose sleeve turning over on the lower part. It is taken well in to the figure in the back. The material of which it is made is rough wool en goods with brown ground and red dots, and it has three rows of woolen galloon in brown shade of the garment. Blue cloth also serves for this purpose trimmed with narrow gilt galloon and passementerie fringe. A seam may extend from the shoulder down, like on the sleeve of 8 visite. The seam opens on the bend of the arm to leave room
  saison confections are cut like travelling red ingotes. They have large plaits in the back and flat ones on the sides. The coat closes down the sides under wide revers of velvet or of astrakhan material or under draperies. Large and usually costly buttons are used on these garments.
 There is no continual change in articles of lingerie there is in other parts of the toi- let, but some notifications, particularly in the ways of trimming undergarInents, are frequently made. Chemises, for instance, are now trimmed in fchu style. They are cut az usual, with the sole object of taking as little space as possible. The trimming may be arranged in bands of insertion, and lace is taken from the shoulder down. In side the lace is gathered like fchu, and crossed diagonally on the other side of the chemises in square end. Another way of trimming these fronts is to have lace drap- cry on one side only and embroidery the other. There are also squares of fine work embroidered on the chennise proper and trim med around to produce the effect of fchu placed inside of square cut waist. Some chemise are pointed back and front, and in the open part are crosswise or lengthwise outings separated by tiny Valenciennes in- sertion. Corset covers are made after the same patterns as chennises. Drawers are wide on the lower part, and instead of being buttoned are taken in as much as required by means of e ribbon shirring. Small under petticoats are still trimmed with plaitings and insertions. There are indications of a return to the use of muslin petticoats instead of surah, and the latter goods are only pretty when new.