Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1885-06-21
FOR THE LADIES.
ALL AMOUR THE FASHIONS.

commended for summer and autumn
travelling dresses. Mohair is the gen.
eral choice, because 1t Is graded in such
various ouai:ties that II will be used
by those who can travel in palace cars
and by those who can pay but 70 cents
. ward for their dress goods. The
slecxily-woyen mohsir is preferred, as
IL Is less harsh and stiff than the
close. firm fabric formerly used /;
it's smooth surface sheds dust, 1t
does not cookie from dampness,
and its weight is sufficient for
warmth, yet is not burdensomc at any
season. The better qualities cost from
fifty cents to OIL a yard, and arc in fawn
shades, clear gray pearl, or dark blue;
the low-pr;ced mohsirs are prettiest in
the changeable or mottled grounds,
such M blue with brown, or blue with
gray, but these also are found in the
gray and brown shades. There are
prettily made mshair dresses trimmed
with rows Of white Hercules braid
for sale in the furnishing stores
for s25, which could be made at
home at much less expense. In Or
der to make these dresses light, a
foundation skirt is dispensed with, and
the lower part Of the skirt is laid in
large pleats, and attached 10 the gored
upper part, which supports the slight
drapery. The pleated part may be laid
in broad kilt plcats four to six inches
wide, that are Tapped or turned under
only about an inch and a half; this
makes the skirt less heavy, aud requires
less material. A hem four inches deep
may finish the edge Of the skirt, or it
NAV have q cluster Of tucks above IT,
or several rows Of narrow braid. A
short apron and straight pleated back
drapery complete this skirt. Another
design has three wide panel pleats
in front and on the sides, with the wide
spaces between crossed by rows of
wide white braid. The apron is sewed
to the top Of these pleats, turned up
ward, and laid in folds to the belt; the
back has two large triple box-pleats for
drapery. A position basque, with a
Breton vest, made quite narrow AID
braided across in rows, is suitable for
either of the skirts described here. For
more dressy costumes velvet is used for
n vest, collar. and cuffs, and rows Of
velvet ribbon are on the skirt
black, blue, or garnet velvet is
used with gray shades, and gold
en- brown with fawn color. The fan
apron in lengthwise pleats from the belt
is liked for these mohairs, that fall best
in straight lines rather than in wrinkled
draperies, and this apron may be edged
with mohair lace to match, or have in
sertions Of lace beyond the hem.
Tucks across or lengthwise are also eff
fectiye in this fabric, and are suggested
to neat needle-wOmen who have plenty
of leisure for running tucks by hand
il lengthwise tucks are preferred, they
are only used down the front and sides,
stopping ten inches above the foot,
and are thence merely pressed fatty
so that they flare loosely as a flounce;
horizontal tucks are two or three
inches wide, and pass around the en-
tire skirt, which is full in house-maid
style. A Norfolk jacket waist, with
narrow tucks and belt, is suitable
with this skirt, and the round waist
with leather belt is also used. Double
aprons are also tucked, and are made
Zone shorter than the other by using
the corners Of the goods, letting them
drop toward the left side, covering the
front only; they are finished with a
hem two inches wide, with three half
inch tucks above it,.
OTHER FABRICS.
The rough-surfaced bourettes, dc
bege, bison cloth, carmel's-hair, serge,
fannelette, with various sheer bunting
like stuffs, are made up in designs just
given for travelling dresses, and trimmed
similarly with braid, velvet ribbon,
tucks, or q very little wool lace. A
vest covered with two rows of wool
lace laid on smoothly and lengthwise is
Sufficient trimming for any dress used
for travel and for mornings in the coun-
try. The metallic braids are so heavy
looking and so apt to tarnish that they
are abandoned for these useful suits.
MORE YOUTHFUL SUITS.
For misses and quite young ladies the
Elton jacket with knit skirt and sash
drapery is a favorite style for travel
ling dresses. The jacket may be of
plain dark cloth Of light weight, while
the skirt is either striped or barred in
lighter shades Of the same color. In
using striped stuifs the apron is made
with the stripes across to give a sash
effect, while the skirt and back
drapery are in lengthwise stripes.
One object in having striped skirt
is that it gives the effect of
pleats without their weight. In some
cases the plain skirt is lined through
out with thin crinoline, and founda-
ton skirt is not used others prefer a
yored underskirt made Of alpaca or OF
low-priced silk, with a foot-pleating of
the dress goods, and the plain striped
skirt is then sewed across this alpaca
foundation, beginning under the dra-
perry. AS we have said before, silesia
is not liked for skirts, as it clings to
the figure, and is not a good support
for the outside skirt. The blue and
brown flannel dresses worn by young
people last year are again made with
simple kilt skirts and round waist or
belted jacket. A corduroy suit for
travel and mountain use is made with
around skirt, slightly gored in front
and on the sides, and a basque that is
not too snugly fitted to serve as an
oyer-jacket with other dresses. The
jacket is much shorter behind than in
front, and is fitted in the back closely,
while its front is slightly loose, and
may be single or double-breasted
Another costume popular with young
ladies is skirt and drapery Of tn,
checked English homespun in several
'colors togcther--blue with red, brown
and green together-or else with som,
teru checks as the prevailing color
while the position basque, as severe il
shape and finish as that of an English
riainv.h habit is made az nlain cloth n,