St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1885-06-21
THE WOMAN'S GLOBE.
Garden Teas, Latest Style of Summer En-
tertainments and How They are
Enjoyed.
Art in Costume Shows Some Very Ugly
Styles What the Latest Fash
ions Allow.
Ways to Make Home Attractive
Decency in Dress.-Ttdb1ts of
Home Life.
Household Hin ts to Help the Houses
Keeper, Interesting Points
for the Girls.
Entertainment and Dress.

Keeper, Interesting Points
| for the Girls.
Entertainment and Dress.
Garden teas are pretty variations for sum
mer entertainments, less formal and snowy
than lawn parties. which involve landaus,
barouches, and the best turnouts generally,
| with great deal of fOotman, claret and
champagne cup, striped marques, lace par
asols and tiounces, French bonnets and
fancy gowns, with apprehensions. It's
more trouble to dress for lawn party than
state dinner, says young person of ex-
perience, and you have the delightful pros
pect of coming home blue ruin, with get
! ting your dress damp in dew OF caught on
the roses, or a breeze comes up and drives
| everybody indoors at risk OF neuralgia. The
| garden tea offers pleasing compromise.
| Invitations are sent out the morning of the
same day, when one is sure Of the weather.
| Tea, ices and baskets of cake and fruit are
served from table under large tree or
awning on the lawn. Algerian grass chairs,
bamboo settees, hammock chairs with Span
| ish and Mexican grass mats spread before
| them, are placed among the shrubbery near
| the house, with plenty of the lawn stands
with sharpened iron-shod supports to be
thrust into the ground and keep things
steady. Light music, good amateur violins
and guitars are in keeping with the easy
spirit of the affair, a stray quartet Of stroll
ing musicians may be found to give much
better music than more pretentiOus bands;
story telling, a recitation or two, ballads
without accompaniment or sung to the
strings, may amuse the party, but the point
is to have things go off In an effortless way,
people generally doing easily whatever they
| do best.
~
Wehear art in costume talked on every
side, yet never in the memory of fashion
was the tOurnure so exaggerated and so
| ugly as in the styles of 1885. The worst
case of broken back never presented so
painful a deformity as some of the figures
| in costume, in and out of fashion plates.
| Yet the plain ''house-maid's" dresses with
full skirt, without flounce or hustle, are as bad
| the other way, for their fairness and straight
| up-and-dOwn lines have poverty the eye
resenrs. The hustle of steel springs is not
| as burdenSome as the pleats and folds OF
cheviot or laine that add no grace whatever
| to the form. 1t is easy to devise a dress
| that shall be questionable in every point,
that will injure health as surely as three
yard trained skirt with accompaniment.
| Could women, modiStes, artists Of all sorts
| be taught to scorn the falsehood of extremes
| half the work of improvement would be
over. Such loops and puffs of light drapery
! as relieve the waist line at the back are
eminently artistic and cannot damage the
most sensitive spine.
*x*
HAS any one ever known whata woman
| can suffer from unsuitable dress? Unutter-
able bosh is written about the torture of
| girls in fashionable dress, but the truth is,
| healthy girl does not feel uncomfortable
| in it. The sweep of her f1ounces gives a
| cadence and measure to her walk and pleas
antly balances the free tread of her limbs,
the close corset supports the luxuriant, elias
| tic figure. She feels as comfortable in a
glove-ftting dress as racer in his running
| belt. But when ailments that experience
| is heir to have depleted her strength, and
malaria, insufficient nutrition, slight dys-
| pepSia or oyerwork has disturbed the bal
ance of physical force, then the grass-hop-
per and the dress becomes burden not to
| be described. Any strain on the spine or
muscles of the back becomes torture. 1
have seen plump young woman reel blind
! and dizzy with the effort of holding up her
arms to dress her heavy hair, and seen a
woman of 40 faint in shop from the pain
of trying on ill-ftting shoes, of which she
was trying to get an easy pair. lin a third
| case. one who wore neither corsets nor
| tight dresses nor heavy skirts, left shop
| ping half done and went home by the first
| train, exhausted by wearing common
| cashmere dress and thick walking boots-a
woman who in slippers and cambria wrap
per was capable of days work at house,
! keeping or tennis with any other of her sex.
| The plain case is that women are so sensi-
| tive through i'll conditions of life that every
| stick and straw needs to be chased from
their path, especially in the matter Of clothes.
| LightneSS, ease, cannot be too carefully
| studied, Joined to graceful effect, for it Sc
| riOuSly fretS the nerves to wear an ugly, ILL
made gown. 1t should be the study of
| merchants to refine garments to feather
| weight, giving all the advantages of warmth,
| GOODNESS, absorption and electric qualities
| nothing stiff or inconvenient should be toll
Grated in the dress of men or women, for
society or negligee. To wear it is simply
| to carry weight uselessly, when we should
be at our best and lghtest. 1t damps wit,
| it perverts good hnmor, causes repartee to
| hang fire, and mars social success as well
| as working power.
~
The fashion allows too little resources
between the short wraps, which require a
dresSy toilet and full tOurnure to go with
| them, and the undreSS newmarket cloth
coat The cardinal and mother hubbard
cloaks were too convenient to be banished
| from the wardrobe. Thrown over the
plainest dress, they allowed lady to be
ready for the street without precise corset
ing and appareling. English designers
come to the rescue with an elegant long
habit of black canvas cloth, lined through
out with black or changeable silk, charming
with thick ruffiing Of black wool lace from
throat to hem, and lace founces filling the
back, with wide-looped satin bows on the
tournure. The desirable garment outlines
the figure, while loose enough to slip on
without trouble, and covers the dress en-
tirely except the lowest founce. In it a
lady is dressed at once for park or picture
show, call or theatre, and it is hoped such
an elegant domino as this will remain as
| standard part of woman's wardrobe as
a waterproof or chuddah shawl for even
| ing.
w.
The Beaufort ulster is a sensible travel
ling cloak for the season, in light cheviot
and canvas cloths, falling into the figure in
4 front with ample pleats behind, not to en-
i barass the dress display or make woman
| take the pinclled look of rolled umbrella,
! while a removable cape with high collar
/ gives completeness to the outfit which one
can hardly improve. e&
~