New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1885-08-31
THE FASHIONS.
PREPARING FOR ACTUMN DAYS AND
NIGHTS.

SILK GOODS FOR FULL-DREss wEAR-wooL GOODS
COSTUMES rRIMMINGs-HATs AND BoNNErs.
| Never has the beauty of silken fabrics been
so great There is rich softness and meowness
aboe the satins, depth OF tone In the velvets and
delicious variety In the brocade the fancy sen tissues
and exquisite cooring that has been surpassed
New effects produced and the perfection of art is
apparent In the adoption of the pure materials SO
avishy made use Of It Is very difficult account for
the sudden universal favor which color or shade of
color Is apt to find For years color or texture may
have been urged upon the public without being so much
as noticed; suddenly capricious fashion eonceives
desire for the despised article and buys at
enormous prices what has long been considered
able, perhaps worthless. Almost each month brings
new shade whose adoption by no means hnpeded by
tho certainty of its short-lved durability.
SILKS, sATIys AND vELvETs.
The autumn display Of American silks shows return
10 odfashioned and beautiful shades for full dress
PARTY occasions; q rich cream color peach
blossom. sapphire blue, bright golden brown, canary
lilac, Nile green a light blue and pale blue MAIZE
rose pink delicious like the soft rosy hue OF the
heart or a tea-rose, and n white with pale golden
CLINT, amber and pale Ohartepse green that comes
again. ALI Of these colors in o new and ex-
qusey fno brocaded Grape In which black Is included
as light as gossamer. crsnlled Grape also OF
the American manufacture Is twenty four incnes wide.
the colcrs dark aud light bronze dark beige, drab.
pink, lavender, Leghorn, cream and white satn-faoed
brocado Ia new In rich and other charming shades
for ball party costumes the figures large arabesque
designs and pyramdal foliage OF Oriental plants and
flowers. as lilies, pomegranates, palms and minaret
shapes. Satin duohesse takes the same evening
shades above. FaiHs Fraaoais reappears Very
rich black scienne is soft aud yielding as cotton,
possessing the richest lustre. The favorite tc0ten
weave in perfect imitation OF Jersey cotn and
Ing the durability, returns In all the and old
shades Rhademr silks aud satIus unusually heavy;
Of this style sapphire blue is the avote shade there
arc also other tints OF golden brown.
Tho rich coors OF the vevets are unsurpassed.
These show three shades of bronze. three o, brown
myrtle four OF garnet two OF carlnS blue and blue-
green, and superb black aud blue black. The heavy
pshes for uphosterng purposes OF rich black and
also In shades OF color aud teu colOrs each
and three shades Striped silks and satins show strongly
contrasting colors, the stripes b the gronn1 AMI TO
each other The extraordinary reaction that took place
In the spring fol ribbons still continues showing five
Silk 6audherebefs for @entsmeD fnstSa5 Of hems have
an Imitation In delicate eoors or line vines or aiabesques
IN s me oe eos tpe,a S bas fs
delicate texture admits OF more graceful foing about
rhe American manufacture of poagec Is sotsr and
moro piabity in its silky texture than the Chinese
There Is, besides warmer shade In the rich cream
color.
WOODS.
For the rest the fine Wooen tIlle for dinner and
reception toilets deserves the welcome il has received
becomes creased. This Is colored silk skirt
with n narrow pleating at the edge Tho wool lace
blouse is finely gathered over the silk waist waist
Is trimmed with 1t after the fashion OF a rchu; the
sleeves lace. Combination drCsscs still continue In
charming contrasts Of color. as pale lilac or salmon
with delicate blue pale Cdrheuse green; pale pink
Is added to golden brown deep yellow; dull blue
and dark red. Rsvers ofthc black wOolien lace are
the improvements vests. The Introduction Of
n wool stripe In the first importation OF rbbons
and wool Il also combined with sk satin (e in the
bonnets giving hints OF what may be anticipated for
the approaching season The black woollen pillow
lace 4 fashioned into mourning abers vests or blouse
waists soft black lustreless fa!e There h
prophecy that tho warmth OF summer will minge with
the orspness Of autumn days, ana that tue happy
autumn fields " will not very soon DO deserted There
the usual changes In fabrics VIII be very gradual
with winter IN tho far perspective
importation OF annes the pretty figured wool materials
With little emoroi lercd figure In contrast TO tho
ground broadeoth embroidered with crewe the lighter
grade OF albaross wool and soft cames serges
tho selyeees. such ~ erescents, PAINS leaf spots
scrolls There In such eOlOrs aud dark
ana marine r6% 9 n'T p eae GF S se eSS
dark shades OF aud also Of MIXED c0lors Nth
black. as red and black, and blue; green. tea-eclor,
drb. red, form another. These materials tailor made
VIII form the most useful wei fashionable travel
Of a new Style rather Of tho asrakhan eject The
quaint lte curling loops are called 5oue anl instead
stripes f. besides In Jerseys for cold weather
and viii prove exceedingly useful and comfortable In
long basaucs. Jackets poOnaises. The ssiTs
with the boct must he Of plain abatross camels-har
serge or serge These may be self-trimmed or with
bands OF the bouot.
@HoUsE-MAID" STYLES.
For the slender, tho house maid skirts will still be
continued. This Is explained to the uninitated a
full skirt three yards wide made after the style Of
the dress skirts by English nurses and maids
A caprice Of English ladies induced thep TO follow this
fashion, and naturally 1t has been adopted by Amer
leans The skirt has vide or narrow hem az chosen
and is tucked II Is thon gathered to belt is not
gorei behind but IL cured slightly the sides
In front The waist which Il fastened 90 the belt Il.
alsO gathered. IL not generally used here broad
belt ribbon is by slim person and a narrow
m"rnns wear OF sone delicate surah has wide collar
of Venetian point finished with at the back OF the
neck; there points both back and front One OF
the most charming OF the any piquant ways OF making
waist IA with belt and sash and kerchle elso
chu which crossed the chest passed back OF the
WALT aud fastened with tab ends. The pretty Puranes
effect is completed by elbow sleeves finished with
rufio and long mtta. and the rcd paTasOl called |
" grand mere one hundred years ago.
HATS AND BoNNETs.
The mlliners manage In tho nrst importations TO |
combine a harmonious whole OF the many materials |
Beneath the profsIon Of trimming ana ornament the
bonnet proper sinks into insigniaoanee There are
metallic brads important for their novelty gilt ribbons
profuson OF tiny beads in other ribbons OF lead.
copper gilt et red and other dark coored wooden beads
festOOneh the hrdds gaOons and ribbons that trim
fabrics. 10 Il matter OF grave doubt whether the
tall cbmneypOt nr square high will be pre-
ferrcd TO the first Importation Of more moderate sle
Foxes rcappear OF lace and gay ribbons Very few birds
are and those are made OF beads but there are
1uili feathers and brilliant ysrety OF iinsei aerss
with the finest threads OF goa ana other metals woven
In pomb lead. There is CLINT OF gold In the meshes
Of The angOra laces.
lord & Taylor Arnold, Constable & Co, ana Aitkln,
5 4 Co. will please accept thanks for attention
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B. GRATZ BROWN ON GENERAL GR4NE