The National Republican., 1885-11-17

bAIAfA, MbAlCO, OCl. IL, loDD'-hlHOlB
the many delightful excursions that may be
made from Jalapa, one Of the most charm
ing-because not wholly devoid of danger
is horseback ride TO Perotc, which famous
village lies score Of miles away, at the
foot Of the snow.capped "Cofre." TO speak
with strict truthfulness, Betsy and take
most Of our horseback rides on burros--the
slow but sure-footed Mexican donkeys. One
soon becomes affectionately attached TO the
patient little creature that has carried one
safely over dangerous trails and slippery
sleeps, and feels sense Of security upon
lis bacN, with feet almost touching
the ground, which is scarcely possible on
tall, high-stepping horse. From the owl
like look of philosophic meditation which
each burro wears upon his countenauce un-
der all circumstances we have dubbed him
the Mexican "Bird of Wisdom;n and GER
tainly he would more appropriately appear
upon the national escutcheon than that
snake-eating eagle, OF whose species there
are none 10 be found in Mexico. Here the
donkey predominates, as to numbers, over
the equine race, hundred to one; and
without him Mexico would be as unlike
herself us the play of "lIamletn with Hamlet
left out. In the capital and other cosmo-
politan cities, some of the finest horses In
the world are seen; but even In these places
"bloodedn burros are of equal value, and
preferred for many purposes.
The archbishop (who is still supreme au-
tocrat, despite the political decadence of
Romish power takes his daily airings be-
hind four clipped mules, and at the appear
ance Of their well-known mouse-hued backs
and scrub-brish names the populace fall
upon their knees without waiting to OBJ
serve whether the carriage Is occupied by
nnylnIy lIt tln qnnplp1un Vhn honubt 20
bishops of Guadalaiava, Michoacan, Iaca-
teces, and Linares-all very "swell' digni-
taries of great wealth-ride behind spans of
fancy burros; and 1t Is seldom indeed that
one sees any Of the Catholic clergy in this
country either on or behind a horse. Prob
ably this priestly Partially for donkeys
originated in the belief that Christ made all
His journeys upon them-from the flight
into Egypt in His mothers arms to His tri-
umphant entry into Jerusalem.
TIE PRESIDENTS MULE TEAM.
Be that as IL may, the president of Mexico
Is the proud possessor of the finest pair of
mules on the continent, aud the most beau
tiful sonora at the capital (the wife OF n
prominent Officially daily displays her dainty
dresses and sparkling jewels on the fashion
able p0seo, in an open landeau drawn by
milk-white buuos, with red roses fastened
at the base of their expressive ears, and gold
mounted harness glittering in the sun.
The country burros, unlike their pam
pered city cousins, lead toilsome lives that
are continuous round Of blows, kicks and
hard usage. The poorest Indian can afford
donkey, which will work faithfully, till
death claims him, on such meager fare as
cactus leaves, old shoes, tin cans, &c. The
raw and bleeding back of the average burro,
the mountainous loads that are habitually
piled upon him till only his nose and feet
are visible and the constant abuse, which
10 his ppl " reward for nntiapt enrvftn1a
lead one to fervently pray that If the theory
Of transmgration of souls be true the gods
may preserve us from future life in that
form.
'valgame, Dias!" Protect me, God y
sWhat women are the Americans ~ re-
marked our gallant host, Don Jesus Juan,
of the Hotel Veracmzana, when we set out
on the long journey from Jalapa to Perote;
and we left him wrestling with the problem
why we had not preferred our ease at his
inn to such laborious pilgrimage which
had only sightseeing for an incentive. The
youthful nephew OF Mme Juan and two
stalwart, well-armed mo2os (servants) acted
as ciceroncs; and thus escorted, with sun
dry letters of recommendation from bishop
and president in our pockets, as an open
sesame to all doors along the route we felt
ms secure as even in our own parlors.
Leaving the ilowery land of fruits and
palms, we rapidly assembled the mountain
bDuIb uluOHs NOlCuilS W WIN Dliluo
darkened by melancholy race of pines
and aloes. Soon the templada region of
oaks and liquid amber was left behind, and
we entered the terra fria (cold zone), to
which climatic belt most of the central
table-lands belong. Anon We found our
selves among the clouds, cold, drizzling
rain filling the air and drenching us to the
skin. "Ave Maria Purissma que venga
el soln (IIoly Virgin send us the sum, fer
vently muttered our mozos, petition
which we earnestly echoed. Emerging at
length into the old Spanish highway, well
paved with basalt, we entered upon most
magnificent scenery. Through the vapors,
spread out like some vast sea below us, the
tops Of distant mountains peer like Islands;
and the stupendous cascade at our right,
after tumble of several hundred feet
straight down the mountain side, rushed
ahead, as II leading the way, and plunged
into the vapory ocean.
IN THE LAND OF THE SKY.
At last Las Vegas was reached-the vii
lage described by Humboldt as occupying
the highest point between the gulf and the
City Of Mexico. All the houses in this ele-
vated hborhood-unlike the cane and
adobe huts of the tropical valleys-are of
pine logs, each tree furnishing but one piece
OF timber, several inches thick These,
roughly hewn and closely fitted, remind one
of primitive days In New England, or new
towns in our own northwest; while the
Single roofs and puncheon floors-unlike
any Others In Mexico carry out the illu-
sion. To add to thoughts of homo, jays
ard chickadees-b of the temperate
zone-hutterod around us, and for the first
time In the cactus country we saw the honest
face of yellow dandellon. AS the houses
indicate colder weather In this "land OF the
sky so the people plainly show the change
Of climate, being more hardy and ener-
getic race than the denizens of those sandy
plains that skirt the sea.
1t being now nearly noon-the usual
breakfast hour in MeXico-w decided to
avail ourselves of the hospitality bcspokcn
in our billetes dc Recommendation, ana / %
invite ourselves "a Ia genus tramp-to par
take of some kind souls bounty. The
alcalde having been particularly mentioned,
his house was speedily found aud, after
considerable flourish OF credentials on our
part and manifest suspicious on his
that We might be banditti In dis
| gulse, that worthy officer invited us to
dismOunt, swung wide the door Of his casa,
and bade us enter. 1t was now our turn
for suspicion, as II is well known that most
of the rancheros, and even many Of the
Il petty officials in these remote districts, are
In league with the gentlemen of the road.n
Not fortnight before the diligencia had
been stopped by robbers, about twenty
miles further down the valley, and the pas-
sengers ordered to alight, and boca-boXa-
throw themselves on their noses. No Mexi-
can ever ventures upon these roads without
being armed to the teeth, yet they never
dream of resisting the robbers, but meekly
throw themselves on their noses when
n ordered to.
In country where justice is seldom OBJ
tained, but where injustice can any day be
bought, and where law exists but In name,
IL Is not to be wondered at that such out
RACES are submitted to by demoralize1
people, who prefer any other means of got
ting q living than by honest work. In
reality an Unsuitable passion for gambling
is at the bottom of this national evil. Men
of all ranks have been known to resort TO
the road to relieve their temporary embar-
rassments, the result OF gambling, and
numerous instances In high life may be
cited where such parties have been detected,