Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1885-02-26
FRENcH COOKS.


the French through the wealth and at-
tention they bestow On the kitchen are
generally regarded, says the Cleveland
Ledger, to be without equal and in con
sequence the great culinary establish
ments OF nearly all nations are presided
over by representatives of that country.
Efforts to surpass or at least duplicate
their work have been without avail, and
it is q fact generally conceded, that they
have but few successful rivals. One-of
the noted men of this class who re-
ceived his training in Paris, is Mr..
Adolph PilIault, who recently took up
his residence In this city. He had trav-
eled extensively both in this country and
in Europe, and came to Cleveland to act
as steward for the Excelsior club ITO
be regarded as thoroughly competent
cook in Paris, said Mr.. Pillault yester-
day, Zone must serve an apprenticeship
of at least ten years. There is no lack
Of opportunity, as nearly all the large
clubs and hotels in that city make ar
rangements for the training Of pupils in
the art. They are of both sexes, and usual
ly serve as assistants. The candidates arein
charge OF the head cook, who gives prac-
teal lessons several times daily, and
they are also called upon to prepare
their own food They study for three
years the making Of pastry, two are de-
voted to bonbons, and the remaining FIVE
years are spent in learning the mysteries
of cooking proper. The salary Ola
good head cook in large establishment
ranges from 5000 to $4,000 francs. An
exception is made by the Grand hotel,
which paid Alexander Chucset. under
whom I served, "a, 900 francs. Good
second cooks command from 2, GOO to
| 5000 francs In private families the
salaries paid varies greatly, according to
the proficiency Of the cook" When
asked why men we're preferable to women
Mr.. Pillault replied that cooking was a
work of art in which women, for some
reason, never equaled men. They made
excellent second cooks, but in every
wealthy family the head cook is male
In speaking of his brethren in this city
I Pillault stated that with a few exceptions
Cleveland had no cooks, ana should any
Of them apply in New York for situa-
tion they would be relegated to very
inferior position. American cooking, he
said, has some very commendable points,
but receives no encouragement from the
people, who appear to have no regard
for the kitchen.
England produces no cooks, and
those of Germany, while they ex-
eel in their own branches, gem
orally learn the art of cooking in
France. The cooks in the courts of
England, Austria, Spain, Belgium and
Italy are nearly all French, and the same
might be said Of other nations The
Emperor Of Germany employs French
cook, Urban Dubois, at salary of TO-,
600 marks per year. Dubois is the au-
thor of book Of recipes which has re-
ceived considerable attention. The
noble families Of Europe usually employ
from three to five cooks, while the food
for the Emperor Of Germany is prepared
by twelve. The great fault of the cooks
of this country is that after having
served in the kitchen for three or four
months they consider themselves fully
equipped with knowledge pertaining to
all branches Of the art The Americans
excel in the preparation Of oysters for
the table. The bivalves have not
achieved very great prominence as an
article of European diet, probably on
account Of their great cost. The great
est gourmands Of Europe in their order
are the French, English, Italians, and
Germans. The French live for eating,
while the people of this country seem
bent en- amassing wealth. When asked
| in how many ways duck could be
cooked, Mr.. Pillault responded that
there were at least fifty different styles
in which fowl Of that kind
could be prepared for the table. In his
estimation the best way to prepare a
9urkey was by stufing it with truffies
and then roasting. The finest repast
that could be served for twenty persons,
he thought, should be modelled after one
served at the Palace Of the Tui!eries,
December %. 1867. The cost in this
country would be from $40 to SIS per
plate. The bill of fare was as follows:
SOUP.
Consomme pImperatrice, barley cream
FISH
Rhine salmon Geneuse style.
Turbot, la Hollandaise with Rhine wine.
Supreme de Poulet a rioine.
Venison filet au chasseur.
With Chateau Yquen.
Quail cotlet a la Rothschild
Aloyau de Boeuf la Nornande
Dindonneau Braize "a limperiale with claret
Chateau Lafitte.
Roast pheasants with cresson,
Garcelle Poti La groseille.
Trufies salads du Piedmont with champagne.
ENTREMETs.
Asparagus salsifi friet, etc
Pudding la Cuberland.
Croute aux ananas.
Gelee Panachee.
DEssERTs.
| Ice Cream Alhambra, fruits, cake, etc, with
champagne.
The First Clock.
The first clock which appeared in Eu
rope was probably that which Eginhard