National Republican., 1885-11-28

MEXICO, Nov. 20-Nestlcd close under
the eternal SHOWS of onzaba, the "star
mountain" Of the Agtecs, is the quaint city
of the same name, capital of the state Of
Vera Cruz. A dozen generations ago II was
known as Ahauializapan, or "joy Of the
water''-"a slight misnomer,n says one,
'since the inhabitants not only take no Joy
in the water hereabouts, but are indebted
TO IL for much fever and dysentery.n The
present town occupies the site Of an ancient
city, whose foundations were laid in some
long-forgotten century, and which, after
many years Of llourishing independence,
was reduced by Montezuma to q state
OF vassalage rs carly rs l457. Having
four thousand feet, 1t is beyond the reach
of the yellow jack and vomito, and has
population Of about 1900. IL lies eighty
two miles north from the port of Vera
Cruz, the next stopping place of import
ance beyond Cordova, at the beginning OF
that wonderful scenery for which the Mex
lean railroad is famous. In the vicinity
are several of the horseshoe curves which
almost make possible the traditional
feat in which the brakeman on the rear cor
LIGHTS MS PIPE At THE LOCOMOTIVE
gorge Of Metlae, and within two miles "as
the crow fliesn is Maltrala, though the pant
ing engine requires twenty miles Of 2igZag
climbing to reach It. No wonder II took
forty years and as many millions of dollars
to build this short line from coast TO capital,
considering that nature combined with
political vcissitudes in presenting a series
Of unparalleled obstacles In its brief day
this celebrated road has passed under no
~ al
and recovered its charter under almost as
many revolutions.
Ori2aba's low casas are universally rooted
with red tiles, which oyerhang their eyes
the windows-like q fast young lady's
"bang." The jackals (hutsl OF the poor are
so squalid that a respectable iackal would
disdain to be seen in one of them, boing
constructed of such rubbish as barrel
slaves, bits Of old boards, stalks of wild
cane, Jumps Of sun-drled mud, and frag-
ments Of straw matting-all mosaiced to-
gcther as ingeniously as birds build their
nests--and thatched with palm leaves or
dried grass. These mansions have no man
ner of window, tattered blanket In lieu
of door, mother earth for floor, and ''all
ut-of.doors' for stting-room and kitchen,
the interior being considered merely place
to sleep, or for shelter when II rains.
A rather handsome house near the center
of the town-one of the few two.storled
ones-is pointed out as the residence of
Emperor Macmillan when he came to ORR
zaba at the beginning of his troubles, un-
decided whether to stick to his totterlng
empire or to return to Austria where his
wife had already gone. AT that time he
remained here some two months, spending
most Of his days on horseback among the
quiet hills that surround the town. 1t
would be interesting to know what thoughts
and plans revolved themselves in his
anxious mind during that period when the
crisis of his fate was approaching lfhis good
angel gave him any premonition of the
tragic end it evidently passed unheeded,
for when friends of the church party came
out from the capital he was persuaded to
return with them-a turning back, as we
know, which speedily resulted In his igno-
minious death. A mile or two from the
town, following an arched aqueduct Of
ancient date, is n magnificent sugar estate
called
LA JALAPILLA,
which was the country residence Of Carlotta
and Maximilian during two happy summers.
1t is said that the poor empress, In her pres
ent deplorable state, frequently imagiues
herself in this far-away retreat, and at such
times she goes seeking the beloved husband
of her youth in the grounds Of her prison
palace. fancying them the ilowery gardens
of La Jalapilla.
This old city Of Orizaba Is as quaint as its
neighbors, being full of unexpected little
plaZas, antique fountains, where the women
come with water Jars upon their shoulders,
churches with grotesque interiors dimly
lighted by constantly burning candles, and
other peculiarities Of n civilization that to
us seems crude and strange, because so
utterly at variance with ideas that prevail
in the United States. Wishing to visit the
postoflice the morning after our arrival, we
a..1z g A.s..V
shops and streets before that evidently not
well-patroniZed institution could be dis
covered One Of its ancient churches, built
nearly 300 years ago, now serves rs bar
racks for the garrison, while its upper
part is occupied by the Masonic lodge,
The mystic brotherhood need not 90 far for
the traditional horrors with which to
solemniZe their initial rights, for scores of
crumbling tombs in the rear of the church
where now donkeys are cornled sOnd idle
soldiers make love to the lavanderas- show
plenty of skulls and cross-bones and collins
In tolerahle preservation, or several tons OF
skeletons might be obtained from brimming
vaults beneath the sanctuary.
THE PLAZA DE ToRRos
where bull-hghts take place on every Sun
day afternoon, occupies an old convent
q change, indeed, from days not long past
when the gentle sisterhood spent lives of
prayer anu pcnunce WlJnln lIs Walls. by
visiting the registrars offlce-Olcio
Publlco mas Antlgua--one may be per-
mitted to inspect some of the old Spanish
deeds, written on parchment during Cor
tez's time, and still distinctly legibe not
withstandlng their great age. Orizaba's
Pasoo, or fashionable promenade, lies about
half mile from either hotel Cthere are
three good hOstelrics herc), and is one OF
the loveliest parks in all this land of lovely
crowned volcano, which until lately was
thought to be higher than Popocatepetl, is
visible only from the eastern end of the
city, an insignificant ridge hiding 1t from
vlew-as sometimes the petty affairs OF
every day completely obscure the radiant
heights on the spiritual horizon. The
great peak is a perfect sugar-loaf in
form, with nothing bleak or savage
about IL, despite its cloak of snow. Says
Bishop: "It seems almost too tame at first
sort Of drawing masters mountain; and,
towering above the tropical landscape, is
like snow In sherbet.n But, though the
'star mountain" no longer smokes, II pos
sesses what the wisGst of human beings may
envy--"a warm heart and clear, cold
head"
During the French Intervention Orizaba
was frequently occupied by those inter
lopers from Europe, The nearby hill, called
El BOTego, was the scene OF dashing sur
prise, when the Mexican army, 1000 strong,
were completely routed by 100 French
ZouaYe5.
Among a number OF charming torrents
which furnish water power for cotton fac
tories and paper mills Is the celebrated cas-.
cade of
TNcoN GRANDE,
about three miles from town. 1t Is easily
reached by carriage or In the saddle, aud
well repays the iOurney--as much for the
fine scenery en- route as for the several
water falls, forty feet IN height, which are
surrounded by a wealth OF tropic vegeta.
tion. In the outskirts Of the city tobacco is
grown in large quantities, and even the
churchyards have been turned TO account
for cultiyating this weed. 1t may be inter.
esting to smokers, as they lazily pun rings