Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1885-08-26
New York Fashions.
AT WATERING PLACEs-THE GRANT MOURN.
ING OUTFIT.

New York Fashions.
AT WATERING PLACEs-THE GRANT MOURN
ING OUTFIT.
Pleasing to contemplate these warm days,
is the society wrapper. A genus divided
into several species, among them still
furnishing the Mother Hubbard. Flourish
ing because SO comfortable. Comfortable
in itself and within the folds of which one
can escape the all-pursuing hustle. Yet
thore are ardent souls that provide for this
omnipresent appendage, and when wearing
a Mother Hubbard. They adjust it at the
back, belt in their gowns half way, letting
the front flow loose, and thus only half COM
Portable, they compromise with fate and
come out on piazzas. A more conventional
and altogether more proper wrapper is made
in princesse shape with Vatican plat ex-
tending all he way at the back, fitted in at
the waist and the front loose All over en-
broidery is effective and pretty one in this
style was lately worn by member Of the
Vanderbilt family. Blamelessly proper, and
a connecting link between dress and wrap
per is skirt and matinee, and should any
bewidered soul inquire the meaning of
matinee. I answer, long escque fitted
closely at the back with loose fronts or else
partly fitted in all around. One of these
morning dresses was lately made up in
white lawn for Mrs. Paran Stevens, whose
Young sons death caused a shadow to New
port gaiety.
SOCIETY SHOULDERS
are unobjectionably protected by the Chud-
dab shawls of last season. Cream white or
plain colored these, and for the most part
showing pock-marked surface with fringer-
ed out ends. AS change however, and
more especially this year. production, come
Chuddah scrafs wrought with brocaded
stripes in Eastern colors on white or color
ed grounds. Cashmere is an orthodox sub
stitute for the Chuddah shawl, and loses not
prestige in being home made, that is in hay
ing the ends fringed out by domestic fingers.
Most expensive however being fine cash
mere shawls with woven border Of en-
broidery and fringed ends. Very light
weight shawls are of thin gauze with bright
alternating stripes and bourette threads.
TENNIS COSTUMES.
The society tennis waist is on the blouse
order, and may or may not correspond with
the skirt. This is convenient, inasmuch as
the waist of a dress almost always grows
shabby in advance of the skirt, while fur
thermore, the need of special tennis CO.'S
tune is avoided. Flannel is the regulation
thing for these blouses, and made up in
regulation style, they can be bought in the
stores or easily enough made at home
Sailor collar, laced down the front, an elastic
band about the waist, below which it should
extend some distance, belted in or no, ac-
cording to option. But the tennis scarfs
are SO cunningly pretty, thatit seems pity
not to have one, the more SO, as by q skill
f,,1 ,1r,h o 10
vised at home. Three yards of light weight
satin, embroider the ends in a fanciful ten
MS design such as balls and bats, behold
your sash, and if of slender figure a becom-
ing one. Sashes indeed are relieving fea-
ture in summer dress, young women not, a
few, are painfully slender, and the bunchi-
ness of sash whether en- suite with the
costume, of muslin, Of silk or wide ribbon
produce an agreeable optical illusion. Strip
ed or dotted flannel is usually selected for
the tennis waist. Coming to elaborate and
specially made tennis costumes we find
them of fine white Or colored wool with
satin scarf, tie at the neck to match and
sailor hat trimmed in keeping. Equally
pretty regulation costumes are of fine, light
weight striped wool. Kilt plaits are in
great favor for tennis dresses; again, the
skirt may hang full and straight or there
can be short apron front with longer back
drapery. A pretty simplicity is the idea
which struggles for expression in these
dresses; an absence of complications, giving
freedom Of action. Shoes are Of canvas
with rubber soles. High boots buttoned on
the side Or laced in front, but some styles
are low, in keeping doubtless, with the pre-
sent popularity of low shoes. Black and
dark colored hosiery have doubtless some
thing to do with the free way in which they
are worn out of doors, since the same gen.
eral effect as boot is produced while there
is greater GOODNESS and comfort.
THE GRANT OUTFIT.
The Grant family mourning outfit as fur
nished by Lord and Taylor, was largely
composed of clarrette, species of nuns
yelling. The Generals widow had dress
of this material with Grape fans let in be-
tween long drapery, pointed waist, collar
and cuffs of Grape. Also crepe de chine
covered with crap, and nuns yelling with
long, half fitting sacque heavily trimmed
with Grape. Mrs. Sartoris, clarette dress
with side tucks and drapery trimmed with
Grape. Mrs. Fred. Grant, clarrette with
skirt in cluster plaits and full drapery.-
Mrs. Jesse Grant, clarrette with skirt of
wide tucks and paniers. White dresses
made plainly with tucks and black sashes
were ordered for the little grand daughters;
black cancels hair suit for a four year old
grand son and complete jersey suit with
cap and sash for one year older.
NOTES.
GauZe fans are very much used this sea-
son, decorated usually with painted land
scapes and mounted on pearl or ebony sticks.
Such light styles have interfered with lace
fans which are reserved for evening but as
change, we see many feather fans, both the
quill painted and the ostrich. Fine grena-
dine Stimulates gauze while as variety,
come in decorated paper fans gotten up in
Chinese styles with red lacquered or ebony
sticks. Waists of Roman sash ribbon are
among the prettiest things at summer re
sorts. The stripes may be arranged either
length-wise or cross-wise and there can be "a
full sash and back drapery to match. A
lace skirt, black OF white, is in great favor
as combination and in this case, the sleeves
of the waist can be of lace to match. Pale
OR dark sash ribbons are utilized for these
very pretty waists as we'll as the bright
Roman colors, as witness waist of dark
blue, delicately striped, worn recently at
Saratoga by young niece of Judge Hilton
White lace skirt and lace sleeves with heart
shaped neck.
RosALIND MAY.
Sailing a Cnat fnr AfTaot;cp