Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1885-08-01
or bow of satin ribbon is worn upon the left

or bow Of satin ribbon Is worn upon the left
shoulder only.
and lose themselves in the drapery Of the
skirt, or terminate in full pastrons or fichus.
BODIES fastened upon the cross, or trm nm I19
dresses but they reg uire great care and taste,
and should not be attempted by any one who Is
not an expert in the art of arranging drapery.
Canary color with brown and string color with
moss or apple green are perhaps the leading
combinations Of the season, and show some ex-
celent results.
Two costumes Of old gold silk, worn by two
young girls, sisters, at a South kensington "at
vet embroidered with gold silk, and worn with
large hats OF brown straw, trimmed with old
gold feathers. The dress worn by the hostess
was of cream silk embroidered with gold, the
sleeves clasped over an undertakes of pale pink
silk. A beautiful dress, worn by a lady present,
who is one OF the ladies in waiting to the Prin-
cess of Wales was of fawn cOlored satin, with
panel at the left of pink satin and lace. and q
beaded front in shades of fawn, green, bronze,
sign. The sleeves were beaded upon net in q
smaller, close-leaf pattern over satin.
BRIDESMAIDS DRESSES
are feature of SOME of the London shops and
possess a character Of their own. This year
fine India muslin and lace and the thin canvas
cloth have superseded the nuns veilings and
SOFT silks which have been employed SO largely
in the past. At recent wedding the brides
maids wore Madras muslin trimmed with
cream lace and pink sashes. The large hats of
drawn muslin were trimmed with wild roses.
More elegant dresses were of white crepe de
chine embroidered with primroses over prim-
rose satin skirts and bOnnets of lace trimmed
with primroSeS.
The "going away" dress of the Princess Bea-
trice is crepe de chine over satin and one of
her dinner gowns is pink embroidered crepe de
chine with aiguillettes of pink ostrich feathers.
SD with the loyal British ladies crepe de chine
is sure to maintain its aScendency. The curious
union of heavy and light materials seen in this
country is Illustrated by the princess going
away bonnet of white velvet embroidered with
which accOmn4nipS a chine
tune.
If there are special houses for bridesmaids
dresses there are also special shops for servants
dresses. In fact, dress for every occasion is
much more specialized than with US fhe house
maid dress is always of neat print or in cold
weather of black wool, with plain straight
skirt, high bodice, and straight cOatsleeve;
white cap, white apron. narrow white collar
and white cuffs, or narrow crimped frllls. But
it
THEATER DRESSING
that presents the most singular contrast to
Amer lean habits and customs, and under favor
able circumstances shows to greater advantage.
AT some ofthe small drawing room theaters, for
example, the effect is that of an elegant assem-
blage at a private reception or entertainment
with the added charm OfsmOoth satin brown
hair and half high dresses displaying not too
much of the lOveliest necks in the world. The
young ladies wear white cream, white lace,
and their canvas toilets, or their skirts with
wear embroidered and beaded dresses and
jackets, and elderly ladies dark silks with lace
silk, which are taken off with the wrap and
leave small lace couture, fastened with gold
or pearl headed pins. The very long gloves are
not so common with us, but they are used
for the theater and other occasions when even
ing dress is worn; rarely for the street. The
sleeves are made longer for street dresses-a
narrow rim of linen cuff or canvas is retained
and the 4-buttoned chevrette glove considered
the best form.
striped gauze-the lovely contour of head and
neck displayed by the simple arrangement of
the lrzed or braided hair-will go off to lawn
tennis in cotton frOcks and coarse straw bon
nets, stout shoes and wash leather gloves.
Taste or no taste, the dress seems to be always
better adapted to its purpose than with us and
uniform prettiness.
There Is one crying sin, however, of which
guilty than their American sisters, and that Is
the sin of tight lacing. The waists of the ma
i9rity are a6surdly drawn in, the more m
perfection of the English figure. The elderly
Englishwoman runs to flesh; so does the elderly
American. and in time each of them learns to
accept the fact and sink down into comfortable
age with its attendant inches and averdupois.
But the natural size of waist to accompany
SO or 80 inch bust measure would be 2:3 to "a
inches, and when it is reduced by compression
To from 8 to 20 inches 1t is an actual loss to
beauty OF form as well as detrimental to the
health. Doubtless there some foolish girls and
women in America who crowd their breathing
apparatus into smaller space than nature in
tended, but the average size of the American
waist being less there is perhaps less temptation
to reduce 1t, and the general appearance of
women in any large American city shows that
the natural standard is more nearly preserved
than in London at the present time.
On the other hand, We sin more in the matter
o, Dnstles ana to1fhares. Suen sheii or pro
be seen any day and any minute of any day
upon Broadway is not visible in any part Of
London. The extension of the dress is confined
to ruffies and two or three steels at the back or
to IA pair of steels and pad or small "mat-
tress fastened in the tailor-inade cloth gowns
to fho eli ifSaIf Won of foch how
quite discontinued the use of the removable
excrescence called a hustle, nor could one be
worn with the close SIDE draperies, which are
the form. 1t is, truly believe, impossible to
reinstate the ugly hoops and bulky removable
street-railed tOurnures. The developed taste
and Intelligence of women would revolt at it.
Ali the tendencies of dress are in a contrary
direction, and the finest underwear is now
shaped 50 as to present no obstacle to pure
outline and a perfect tit.
CONTRASTS OF COLOR,
too, are avoided, and studies are made Of the
blended shades of one color. The shop windows
are beginning to show this departure, and pre-
sent some striking effects. One great window,
belonging to an artistic dry goods house in Re-
gent street. is filled with soft shades of pink
another with yellow. and a third, in another
establishment, with cream, pink and yellow.
All tine shops are now having their annual
sales, and there are abundant opportunities for
bargains in lace, paraSOlS and fancy summer
fairies, the fashion of which may not outlast
the season. Lovely fine wooden materials can
be bought for % cents per yard, and prints and
Saline, for song. The fashionable beaded gar.
ments, such as ZOuave jackets. hand-mad bod
ices and mantleS enriched with handmade
beaded trimmings, maintain their price, cost
ing from two To three, four and five guineas
$50 To $50. and hi cher for the finer and more
elaborate specimens
Gloves and hosiery, laeeS and dress material
are the directions in which purchases can be
made To the best advantage, the quality afford
lnS the satisfaction of superiority, while the
p-!,-e Is much less than would be paid at home.
Bea1ed work is principally done by hand. and,
there ore. completes at a disadvantage with ours,
So Inu -h of which is executed by machine; but
beaded work upon lace and embroidery upon
The material are still. and are likely to remain
at present. the choicest forms of decoration.
JENNY JUNE.
Senators from Massachusetts.
NEITHER ROBINSON NOR LONG ASPIRES TO
STEP INTO THE SHOES OF DAWES OR HOAR