Evening star., 1885-06-06

ric. As late as the beginning Of the present
century cotton for dresses was dearsr than
nsary q ,h. SoS1 as .sea bes wsss
luxury OF ths rich. American cotton made cot
ton cheap te al the world; aud Chinese suh
it had been, aud every woman wanted siik. 10,
the geHsrations had been deprived Of 1t, and a
| silk dress TO many meant the realization Of the
widest dream sf ambition.
We are only just now recovering from that
exaggerated sense Of the value Of silk and it is
sstionary movemsnt % the stscngess feeling
in favor OF the early Eabric should be found
who have no inusiops about siIk are Intimately
ACQUAINTED With its charm and possibilities and
give to IT its pr9per place and & value;
by showing its susceptibility. to picturesque
and graceful arrangement; and this influence
Ss to the
exclusion of the stiff stuffs and wiry alpacas of
| a previous era. There Is subtle fascination
! silk. linens and cotton. One would say it had
feeling and vital quality THAT brings it into
and light it is both light and cool; it is synpa-
| thetic aud rss;tui unless made otherwise by the
introdqstion Of a foreign element or the
| satin knve been made subservient to 1T In the
cloth dress tor wslk1ng. in the bows and belts
and an; sa.hes M used as trinmns for it IN the even.
between cloth with a thickness and weight OF
! wool on 1t that would burden a strong man,
ehN th>suS ~ i!Sul thsat IL W uSke u QreSS
in this climate It is Invaluable for its soii warm
or gauzy textures: adapt themselves to every
change and variety of the climate, while it SO
readily absorbs Precipitation, Is SO easily, with
undsrvest Sorln, changed and washed. and Is SO
leF ah abandaai supsiy, and Tor aaSy shoas shansEe
II necessary, ut cost Of less than five dollars.
.. o9is de:erve mneh more care iq their seiec-
sci apart By really dis,insa.hed and a ashiona Eass
Dls women me ,bor for certain dante and well pur.
Year after year. each man nutactory having q
frier q ;o Gwn easily as
Ware in china.
srIAER DESIGNS AND PRICES.
There Is marvellous reduction in the cost of
all materials in bulk at the same time that
there is & great Improvement in texture and in
the beauty OF the designs. In the new wide
wools 80 supple, so light, 50 strong, 50 pnable,
so adaptable to all women's uses there is, it
must be repeated, an absolute fascination One
ti.al could make lovely dressin. for al woiaSh
i'll the would TO take the place OF their shreds
and patches, OF the infinite pains expended in
hi4hes.
iasre are beautiful cashneres with satine
executed In a duucr twill and have Not the eject
ol bfoctqe, lut more OF tapestry designs, which
can Saf be bought tofIyfour ine1e; wide; for one
an indoor = wn that would last life time.
CRAZY cloth is really. ah ets.mine Or canvas
only sixty cents per yard 1t Is most du.able
aad excellent tpr ocean travel or mountain
suits.
S.ae sapd colorcd cloth costumes for walking
and seaside Wear. made win clustered and
BIS pleated skirts. su;ll hati ,-basque and no
9ras-ry, are ornaiaenrsd with panels and mil
itilT vest UOut with ladders formed of close
straps OF marrow silk braid, embroidered in
ifatner stitfh upon tAc po.at> at tae eadS the
.It shades 2l Psi SILK 'ad ra;desaetiy ns,cainy the
nl;lInev. which Was :ornel.y from ifly to
ssysaiE.iiye d4ilsr., IL n.w & N twenty-five to
thlriy-in s;ocR, o course. no, maze to order.
It'll. an unusoai thug, howc.e., to ind new
u rsaas made .ass eIos g. jaeEs,., eos as
iv-y rl,a> asE.re the lr-t y. J.iuafy ior the foi-
iow!n. :pf1t.. AID summer, aEl b., July 1cs tae
f.sn ansieS, p.ttorns ana blow OWE all tie I'D oii
Idea. il rs.a.d to "drape.y." Later desixas,
imported, h.ms, made ana adapted, are ia.de
the af.i.rqaa saits. which are are n seaesaIly 'i OF
eosrse wa:sslal, coa..ely made. Ladis. Who
Il touch of haod clubToidery, and who have in
taldaence and aptitude enough to guide then
70 iops. q snd
1tAer ".Eae !. III they caa always lead in the
Iaa,'er OF l,.sLion. At the s.lne time that thsj
GI- %Gai't anI individualize thei. own dress, at
les ,h;: E.fiis cost 10 l~-s skllul less fortu-
ust=. or ia-s lust. Ivu. N ,.isil,.ais
IL. ssa'<on the points OF difference in forna-
ton a:id 60 StrIc'iou are veIy decided, and Il
dIes ~ l'.ss ysaf. or made ser last year.
s.yl... c.sI be detected ut once by an experi-
strs.i .h sLIt the short habit basque. tSe ab
Scllc- u1 -,s.iery its nlas=ii. hisE at the top
III tne s>et the .hart octapor g!rln aut, ard the
ie;iIsti ~ a number of ieaIufes which distin-
gl - tsi. Gress -. ihirry to fi,y years ago. One
OF tnC:e Is the Te-utr'duclcn of the cap placed
oves the tpp Or r=sd'in PAGE Of u sleeve. An
fxe IN Z. l,ra
telles, wni:h eXseud down ttre back as well as
the irsAt %. .&ic lodice. y third is the rcstora-
AID iouttii tie short sleeve with hish French
waist, .uIl a. the belt plain on the shoulder for
younY gi.is.
COMPLETENESS IN COSTUME
The mos; obvious and most decided charac-
teri-tIc Of the different kinds Of costumes Is the
c-.re with which the details of each are arranged
to salt the general tone and purpose of the EN-.
tire dress The newest hat to wear with cloth
sui 5, tailor-made and finished in high military
style, ma.one." 1t is high In the crown, bu,
.io. pointed. with briIa tarped up ON eaeh side
nnd sipF!n. off 1T the buck, but straight IN
iroat, wiierc il pr9'ecis Il li:tie over the lore
head las trimnii~g usually consists OF svf,
SIN, with poupons; dark blue. with wine-col-
ored, RCD. or u twiue slads. with brown
ihe Lolita hat r. a mani!ia straw, with high
crown, s.Sped up. and briin projecting in front
but taIerinY OF to nothing tn the back. This j.,
tiirau.ed With stripel canvas scarf and an
aikrstte, anu Is suitable with com animation walk
lie Fedora dress 4, mastic wool. with the
inn skirt a. .nt in satin, aid ornamentation "
narrow gold braid; Is accompanied by Ta,n
y Shanisr, lsdc Of ruby satin, covered with
Tuscan lace braid, and Ornanlented with two
stra.sa. gull feathers in shades of mastic 10
brown.
Another dress in the same style is made in
two shades OF brown, with brown satin for the
foundation OF ihe hat.
THE NEWEST II BLACK TOILETS.
For handsGtn> black toilets u new and effec-
tive sscurial figured srenadins is used in COM
binaliOn with the plain ali fabric in armure pat
terms The figures arc large and arranged 50
that there Is neither up nor "down"-an ad-
Vapiageou, feature, Us the fabric is costly and
Waste should be avoided. Tue heavy outlines
are precisely the saline rs the homemade escu-
ence In the size aud formation Cf the Ino.h
wulcp gives iace-ilke designs in the soft selni-
tran -pai eui fabric. EsSurial greAadiue is So to
50 per yard, ana Is used Ior fronts or panel, Of
or Iaanue which Is Otherwise tgilnIued win
eSculiai lace, with u mixture vi ball fr;nye
aud point q dOrleips.
Lace Is not u; all SO much used Gu fine cos
taken Its place, and the contrast Oh plain wit,
ESurct iiiaieTlal. Yak laces are an exception
b4t ttsr reign win be snort in 1. popular
Sense, because they are not desirable ih the
c3ar,e PATTERNS IN wh1sil alone tEey are attain
able by the najoTity. Line WOODEN lace is beut-
tiiui, but not eAectlye upon wool and out o!
place Us u tyl0nlins for anything but wooden
Costumes. 1t Is Therefore hard to do anything
w4lh 1t that will repay its cost in additional
beauty or appearance oil value. 1t is very dell.
cate and p city upon line nuns yelling ;,nd
tln WOoleI tissues; but IL is also coS ly and the
i!i't tfinIn1n are more In vogue; have obi aimed
tue lead, a;:d look newer. WCo.en lace 1, somc-
times effectively used t0 cover = CONTRASTING
color, cIufyiEeu wit cream or tl;,sti.. and tx