Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1885-01-02
THE CANVAs-BACK DUCK.
How to Select and How to Cook the King OF
Wild Fowls.

A great many persons, at least three
tourths of those who use them, in Sc
Letting choose the largest and heaviest
they can find in dealer stock. They
are apt, also. to fall into another error
that OF picking out the brakes. The
real epicure, of course, knows better.
And the old families, too, who have
been in the bit of eating them on
their native shores that border on the
waters of Chesapeake Bay and its trib-
utaries, will tell you that if you want
the canvas-back in perfection, where
quality, and not quantity, is the desid-
eratum, you must select the young
duck, with brown, notified breast 1t
is true that pair of large brakes, when
fat, wiz weigh from six and half to
seven pounds, while the weight of q
pair OF young ones, equally fat, will be
only from five to six; yet they will re-
ward you in delicacy for what they
lack in weight Therefore, choose the
latter, for there is as much difference in
flavor between the old duck and the
young one as there is between a wood
cock and an old pheasant.
There is another point in the selec-
ton of ducks which it is well to remem-
Der. After seeing that they are young,
plump, and fat, see, also, that they are
sound and have been carefully handled.
There is many pair of fine ducks ut
terly spoiled by the rough handling
either of the gunner or dealer, or both;
their flesh by such treatment becoming
bruised and soft The proper season
for the canyas-back is from Nov. Is to
Jan. %. Between these dates they are
in their prime, and he who eats them
then should bless his opportunity.
The most celebrated places for can
vas-backs the finest quality are Havre
de Grace and the adjoining towns.
The gunners from the surrounding
country make the flats opposite Havre
de Grace their cunning ground. Here
the water is fresh and abounds with
wild celery, of which the ducks are ex-
travagantly fond; and it is to this they
owe their peculiar and delicious flavor.
If you care to have feast fit to set not
only before King, but before the gods
themselves, we will, with little recap
itulation, tell you how to go about it:
Take pair of fine, fat, young, and
sound nvas-backs-and let them be
females if possible. In choosing them
observe well their plumage. A brown
ish cast on the breast, or where the lat
ter is notified with brownish feathers,
indicates that the bird is not over two
years old, and that you may safely and
profitably invest. Have the birds nice
ly picked, then draw the trail, being
careful not to cut the entrails. Wipe
them out with a clean, dry cloth. Use
no water, for if you are careful in draw
ing the trail the ducks will need no
washing, and are far better without.
Now take a stalk of celery, using the
white part only. Chop it up very fine
and sprinkle it within the ducks, place
them in a hot oven and let them re-
main for from fifteen to twenty MN
utes. Then take them out, serve them
up and eat.
Yet while you eat, far more prepare 70 crave.
And thank the gods for all the good they
gave
Some like little currant jelly with
the canvas back, but, for ourselves, let
us have it with none other than its own
native t1avoring.
We have said above, 'place the ducks
in hot oven," which is upon the sup
position that you are not the fortunate
possessor of an old-fashion, tin kitchen,
with its attendant wood fire. Should
you be able to bring both to your aid in
the cooking of the canyas-back, you
will know what it is to have that bird
in all its perfection.-Ca Caterer.