Wessington Springs herald. (Wessington Springs, Aurora County, Dakota [S.D.]) 1883-1891, 1884-09-26
Various Mourning Dresses.

Severe effects given by straight lines
and long folds are used for mourning
dresses, instead'of the curved boutfant
draperies in vogue for colored costumes.
Flounces laid i'm narrow plaits have
given place to smooth bias folds, or else
tucks done in the skirt Broad fiat
panels are arranged ON side breadths,
or three very wide box plaits that look
like panels trim the front and sides, and
there are narrower kilt plaits in the
back. These lengthwise pla,ts and
panels are liked for short women. while
those who are tall use crosswise folds
or tucks. Sometimes the folds or tucks
are only at the foot Of the skirt and up
the whole Of the left side, which is dis
closed by an opening of the long
over-skirt. The folds, whether of dress
goods or of English Grape, must be cut
exactly bias, and are from three to four
inches wide. Those of Grape are usually
double, and have the uppere edge turned
in 1t the top; those of woollen stuffs
are single, but are lined with crinoline
lawn to stitfen them slightly; they are
sewed in to lap over the seam that
holds the fold next below it in place.
Wider folds, that require but five or
| seven to cover the dress skirt, are very
| difficult to arrange neatly, and should
| not be attempted by the amateur dress
maker. Wide tucks from an inch and
a half to three inches broad are
easier to make, and are quite etfec-
tive, especially for simple woolens,, such
as Cheviot, tamise cloth, Or flannel, and
are also liked for nice yelling dresses.
An appropriate skirt of this kind has
two wide double box pleats made of q
width and half of the material, form
ing the entire back OF the dress: these
back pleats look we'll when tucked in
four OF five rows acros the foot. When
two single widths are arranged in high
back drapery they may also have tucks
for q finish. In the front breadths are
more tucks. falling, tn a narrow pleat-
ing at the foot, and there is a side
pointed apron for drapery. When
Grape trimmings are used. folds Of
Grape made tapping are placed across
the front breadths of the skirt, or else
three or five hngthwise pleats of Grape
trim it from belt to foot in front and on
the sides. The skirt in wide kilt pleats,
so much liked by young women, may
first have Jwo or three bias bands Of
Grape laid upon it before pleating.
Square plastrons or vests are made IF
the Grape placed smooth and straight,
or else gathered full in Fedora style,
while that for the collar and cuffs is
usually a double fold, which must 10
perfectly bias or it will not be smooth.
Some new effects are given by folds Of
grenadine or of Henrietta cloth
lined with Grape, and the Grape
dining turned upward half its
depth on one side of the skirt
front, and the material of the dress on
the other half showing only a piping Of
the rape. The sleeves of mourning
dresses are closely fitted, covering the
arm smoothly to the wrist, and beng
plainly finished there, only following
current modes in being more or less
high and full at the armholes. The
neck of such dresses is cut very high,
and has q broad collar standing. close
against the throat. Small, round. flat
button-molds covered with the dress
goods or with Grape fasten the waist,
and are not used otherwise.
Simple styles and q fine fit are the
distinguishing features of first mourn
inc dresses, and to obtain these the
tailor fashions now in vogue are
adopted, especially for Cheviots, tamise,
and flannel dresses. A few dresses
well made and OF good material are
preferred to q greater variety when
wearing mourning, and women, OF ex-
perience say three dresses-good, bet
ter, and best-will furnish something
suitable for most occasions, and are all
that are needed when mourning is first
put on. AS we have said, lighter and
more comfortable mourning dresses are
now used, and the tendency is toward
wearing it a much shorter time than
was formerly done; each family, how
ever, has it's W customs about these
matters, and there are no rules that APP
ply to all.--.Harpcr's Bosar.