St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-08-31

Zoo late for summer and little early Tor
autumn-at this, the between of seasons, it is
always the most difficult to decide what to buy
for dress. One is tired of all that has been
worn during the summer, dressed over, remod-
eled for especial occasions, until it is imperative
thai something new shall be forthcoming. A
new ana pretty costume never shines with such
lustre as when every one looks a bit shabby,
when the costumes of waning season are
brought out for almost the last time, looking as
though one must get ona more wear oat of what
was so expensive, and has been so pretty.
new silk, cashmere, or nuns yelling. gives an air
of freshness that makes one turn to look after
it and admire it, too
\ PRETTY STYLE
In which to make these costumes is to take, for
instance. gray or garnet silk that has its
best days, rip it apart carefully, picking ont all
of the threads, sponge it carefully with diluted
alcohol or ammonia, if it viii bear it; any way
press smoothly between two thin cloths get a
new lining, have beth basque and skirt perfect
fitting; finish the lining of the skirt with canvass,
faced with ALPACA, edged with braid, and on the
right face to the knee with the Oldest part of the
silk. This can be of the poorest pieces because
it can be peced, and not show as the trimming
will cover it. Cover this skirt with plating of
silk 1.-THE old lounce can be replaitedl edged with
lace finger in depth, setting upon the silk not
falling below il. Then get black figured net,
gather it in full drapery across the front and
| sides, letting the top Of plating sew over lower
edge, and double jabots of the edge form pan
nels down each SIDE If the back drapery show
too much wear cover it with net, use it as a
hounce half way to the top of the SKIRT and
border the edge the same as the lower
aounce. Then drape the figured net
edged with lace being full and bouffant,
but short in the back. The basque should be
short over the hips, peaked in front, longer and
more square in the back for the lace drapery to
be attached to it, with hoops Of ribbon as a fin
ish; have full soft vest of the net with straps
across of the silk, the sleeves with net and
edge with lace founcing.
Another exceedingly pretty style of finish for
the bottom of skirt and plating can be re-
plated TO good advantage for it, is Lay clus-
ter Of five plaits one half inch wide. full quarter
yard deep, gather close, about one half finger
from top, and place pretty passamentarie tas-
sci on each. The top and bottom should be
slightly spread and tackled in place by tapes I'M
derncath. Any seamstress can make either of
the above trimmings and will be surprised at the
really fine effect.
THE ACCORDION SKIRT
Bids fair to be just as popular for fall as it was
earlier in the season and is really very appropriate
for cashmeres, albatross cloth, selges and
light hannels. None but an experienced platter
can do this work, as if not well done the effect
is spoiled. With these skirts it is better to have
yoke one half yard deep at the top of the skirt
and the plating attached to it, with a soft
drapery carried across the front and side and
prettily looped i'll the back. The basque should
have narrow plaits on the front, center of back
and cuffs
AUTUMN TRAVELLING SUITS.
What is suitable for autumn travelling suits !?
is frequently asked Black flannel is the best of
"a ric for the purpose, and made with hem and
fin; narrow tucks, then plated to deep yoke
that is nicely fitted about the hips. A round
basque with several rows of stitching on all
edges as finish for those past their YOUTH and
Il simple plated waist worn with without q
black leather belt for young lady. A jacket of
the lannelwill be very useful, for redingotc is
too warm or clumsy, while jacket
lined with silk is easy and of suff-
cient warmth. The redingote will
form part of every sort Of travelling toilet
this fall. They are plain but finished with
tailor precision. The lining may be of any
color to suit taste or convenience; bright colors
being much worn.
Block patterns are coming in with ne goods
these are in striking contrasts, to be made up
with velvet or satin, the darkest shade in the
bodice, and after plain velvet is used for the
basque.
4 good way to make little go a good way is
to have handsome flannel or cloth suit-cloth
IL one does not mind the difference in cost-and
a handsome silk or velvet skirt, so that for more
dressy occasions the extra skirt may be worn in
place OF cloth, although many ladies prefer the
entire suit.
TIE CLOSE CAPcTE,
EN- saite is made of cloth put on the foundation
perfectly smooth, trimmed with velvet and large
pompons to match the color or trimming of the
suit. The strings should be of velvet and tie
under the chin with very short ends or with
none. Some place a very light plating of beige
lace under the brim Of capotc
For more dressy occasions the bonnets are
worn, or perhaps the capote with n more pro-
nounced brim, which admits of bright Innings
Red is the fav0rte color (brght red), although
brick and coffee red are worn by those who look
best in less brilliant color. The brim is faced
with the bright color, while soft roll around the
crown mas large bunch of silk daisies or ger
with puiI Of velvet all around, soft scarf of
Of velvet crosses the top, with knot or pretty
ornament on the very top and the scarf widened
TO the ears of the capote. The ties for this are
the merest bonds Of velvet with q small made
double bow without ends under the chin. The
crown of pretty bonnet was laid in close over
tapping folds, with gold and cashmere beads
forming network for the front: the trimming a
wreath Of brilliantly shaded autumn leaves of
velvet, in scarlet green and gold around the
crown.
The careless fashion of hanging stalks and
stems from the brim of the bonnet, is very
charming one to girls possessing a certain style
Of face, but ike the Mother Hubbard" rage the
style has been most extrayagantly buresQued
ITEMS.
The Old fashioned cameo bracelets are now
made into dog collars fer the throat by fastening
the two together in front with the regular clasp,
aud il the ueeklet is too long then a velvet rbon
seved to the links Of the last cameo but one, is
tied behind, and the extra canoes are used TO
fasten the velvet bands Oh the arms.
Chatelaine bags are again fashionable Ear.
rings are not worn in the day time at summer
resoUs.
Broad velvet bands are worn around the neck.
The gold and silver head like bracelets that
lap on the arm are very fashionable.
Ladies cuffs are yer; narrow They are worn
with small stud buttons of hammered silver
More trained evening dresses are being worn
this season than for many years.
Alligator skin is used for cording the tucks of
the skirt and Norfolk jackets.
silks with 4 satin dui-h are to take the lead
again thiS fall, and blocks Of satin and velvet
VIII be fashionable for rediugotes and basques,
with SKIRT panels Of the blocks upon piaia satin
The striped scarf shawl Is very desirable, and
comes in all coors, with metallic stripes that are
very handsome. For veranda or ball room wrap.
this scarf is lovely; those in black ard metallic
gold are the favorijes.
silver jewelry is very fashionable, and the
Rhine or quartz pebbles are now set in silver.
and are very fashionable
Hercules 5ra.d is still popular for trimming
serge. cloth orsianneI.
Plain suits made of a fine quality of mohair are
popular. They sh1uld be trimmed with larce