Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-09-14

AUTUMN AND WINTER FASHIONS.


AOlVAN 6ND W s$' ~--' - 49,
ne xasess rAssss ~ cswblnassss Dres,ss.
Wyaps, Dtnaer Costumes. &c.
~comhiuaticn dresses for autumn and
vtater are being made OF three different
rssfeYials.r sass Harpd's Boar, "two o.
vhseh arr wool, and the third velvet, and
shJs mind fabric r. usually OF q different
color from she others. OF the two wooIen
sfust o,.e ray be q smooth cloth, or plain
twflled vigpgne or serge OF q Solid color.
While tho otter IL roueh-surfaced, and may
b. figured OF mise. and may combine the
colcrs Of both The serge aud velvet used.
This Gives tasteful ensemble when the third
color IL chosen Of q harmonious tint
end not In striking contrast. Red plays
conspicuous part IN such combinations, and
h pccu both In vivid and In dull hues. In
drsscs that are In the main blue, green,
sray, or brown, the red being chosen for
the velvet accessories which really give
character 10 the dress, and will make the
most difficult and trying OF the new colors
> becoming 10 almost any complexion. Bru-
netts Of clear complexion can wear the
duIi venetian red shades or the bright CO.
queiicot. while for the delica'es tints OF the
blonde these shades are made chan geable
with bl1e In the swect-pca colors now IN
vogue, or else the red velvet or cloth Is
merely background for many close rows
Of blue soutachc, or OF the bralds In which
bronze. dull gilt, OF silver appear. The vest.
high collar. cuffs, and either borders or
ranels remain the parts OF the dress where
velvet - most effectively used. In com.
biping three such fabrics-plain aud figured
wool with yelvet--a tasteful French plan
has the skirt OF frise cloth In a meange OF
colors tred. olive. brown. and orange), with
tie basque and drapery OF diagonal
serge OF plain maroon shade. while
the bias folds around the skirt and
on the basque are OF darker ma
room velvet. Sometimes the velvet
il figured. and in such cases plain velvet
may take the place Of the figured
wool. or else there will be used new
fabric that has wool ground with velvet
figures. This is very effective In stripes,
as. for instance, a reseda, or nankeen, or
Egyptian brown cloth has narrow half-inch
stripes OF velvet showing several bright
coiofs, and this velvet may be frise or I'M
cut. or with short pile. or else with long
pile Hike that Of plush. Large moons.
slender crescents, bars and blocks OF vel
vet are seen on cloths In the same colorng
Ms The stripes. In other faucy-tigured
woods and velvets gilt. bronze, or silver
on the overskirt or the pleated skirt. and
in some instances the entire basque Is
made Of the figured fabric.
"When only two fabrics are used IN
dress they also combine the two materials
30 popular this winter-yiz., wool and vel
vet, Thus q dark-browD cloth dress will
have the vest and petticoat front OF brown
velvet that has very light brown frise spots
all over II, or black diagonal serge VIII
have uncut velvet that has small cut velvet
flowers upon IT.; and sill Others are change
able cloths, with either dark-blue or dark
red velvet In the combination. There are
many OF the Gordon serges used IN dark
blue.gray shades. and the trimming for
these Is silver braid fourth Of an inch wide,
woven In basket pattern with blue mohair
braid. The rough twilled serges are in
great favor for English tailor suits, and
there are also many clouded cheviots OF
rough surfaces that promise TO be as popu
lar as the bison cloths introduced last year.
sOUTACHE SKIRTS.
zone Of the new fancies is called the
sout1che skirt, and consists OF any cloth
lower skirt covered rs far as ii is visible
below the drapery bv lengthwise rows OF
mobair braid sewed on one edge to throw
II in high relief, placed near together,
giimpses Of the foundation skirt beneath.
At the foot border Of braid Is formed like
that described last week with points at the
upper edge. while the lower edge is
rayeled in fringe. The oyerskirt is then
without trimming. and is usually n simple
apron drapery. The border OF points and
fringe is the trimming for the basque, and
for the short half-lo0se jacket that is added |
for the street.
"Tbe newest cashmere dresses are en- |
tirely Of one fabric, being made up without |
silk in the lower skirt, and II anything is |
added for trimming, II Ii a little velvet on !
the basque and sleeves. For such dresses, |
and also for the very light clothes used for
early autumn-light both In color and in
weight-the imported designs are In two
pieces. simple basque and a skirt with ITS
drapery attached, that has no trimming but
tucks or folds OF the material. and the
plainest Of BLASTING" buttons. There are
pretty gray or beige-colored casbmeres
with a group OF tucks up the left side
and hounce Of broad pleats all around
the foot, in which are two or three tucks. |
This Is laid on foundation skirt Of alpaca !
or OF silk, and the drapery above this is
simply hemmed. and is very irregularly ar
ranged; favorite plan las a short lambre- !
quin curved above the tucks on the left |
side, n disappointed shawl-shaped piece on
the right side, and straight back breadths
caue up high on the tournure and round |
ed below, or else falling i'm the straight |
waterfall pleats already described. Light |
brown cloths. scarcely heavier than flannel, |
have the drapery nearly meeting down the |
front, but with cross tucks In the space be- |
tween instead Of the lengthwse peats, like
fans formerly used.
"To make light cloth suits warm enough |
for December weather q round cape Is |
added Of the material, warmly wadded, |
and trimmed with soutache IN relief all |
over II, or else 1t Is quite plain, and bor- |
dered with fur around the neck and down |
the fronts, but not across the lower edge. |
These capes are deeper than those OF las, |
season and reach to the waist line, like |
large pelerines; they are also made Of black |
velvet, or Of seal-skin plush that can scarcely
be distinguished from seal fur, and may
then be worn with various dresses.
PLAIN VELVET WRAPS.
"Many wraps Of plain black velvet are
imported In the shapes worn ten years ago,
such as the long casaqun, n fitted sacque.
single breasted. and buttoned ITS entire
length. These are now as close-fiiting as
the Jersey redingotes worn last year.
though not so long, and are trimmed with |
a border OF fur, feathers. chenille in loops, |
or with embroidery Of jet beads in the old |
time leaf and vine patterns done on the |
garment. Shorter sscques. fitted In the |
back and hanging straight and loose in |
front. are also made Of plain black velvet, |
and trimmed with border OF some full |
fluffy fur or feathers. Besides these are |
many close-ftting velvet jackets. aud this |
plain velvet Is also used for the mantles |
and capes already noted.
Jerseys with vest OF kid are largely inn |
ported. This kId Is Of light tan or leather
color, and Is used In brown. black, blue.
and gray wool Jerseys. All Jerseys are |
now cut with more seams than when first |
introduced, and form regular basque,
with side forms In the back and position |
pleafs. They are also made very short on |
the hips, and are often trimmed with
border of braid that extends up the front |
like ve<t. and around the high standing
collar. The mixed metal and mohair
brsids are much used for trimming such
Jerey basques.
DINNER DRESSES.