Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1884-06-05
Perfumery and Flowers.

LII Is u curious fact Utlat some OF our
sweetest flowers are unavailable for the
purposes of pertumery. Sweet-brier,
for instance, and eglantine can only be
initiated. No process has yet been dis
covered by which their delicate perfume
can be extracted and preserved; but
spirtVpus extracts of rose pomade, of
Hover of orange, nerol ou-alsO pro-
duced from the orange and yerbena-
when cunningly combined, very fairly
initiate both. Lilly of the valley-an-
other useless flower to the perfumer,
though of exquisite scent of itself is
marvelously initiated by compound
of vanilla, extract of tuberose, jasmine,
and otto of almonds. Almost all lilies
are found too powerful even for per-
fumery purposes, and are, therefore,
little used, even in combination with
other odors, for it has been found in
many instances that they do not har-
monte well with the fixing and dis
guising" scents in general use.
1t appears from DIR. Piesse's little
book on perfumes that most of our very
sweetest flowers are only successfully
initiated, as the wall flower, Glove pink,
sweet pea. Magnolia is too expensive
to be genuine. Myrtle is very rarely
genuine. Real sweet pea there is none,
and heliotrope and honeysuckle are
cleyerly made up. Tuberose. vanilla,
orange flower, violet, rose, jasmine. and
cassie, with orrls and vitivert, musk,
and ambergris in proper proportions
and combinations, are the leading in
gradients in most perfumes. Mignon-
cite, sweet as it is in the garden, is al
most useless by itself to the perfumer ::
and tuberose, one of the sweetest, if
not the very sweetest, flowers that
bloom, combined with jasmine, makes
the perfume called stephanotis. BY
enfeurdge it gives a most delicious ex-
tract, but it needs to be fixed immedi-
atelv by a less volatile scent or it will
Immediately evaporate. Fixed by van
lila or some other enduring odor, it is
one of the most charming and useful
essences in the perfumer's repertoire,
and enters into the composition of al
most all the favorite handkerchief bou-
! quets. Cassie, otto of almonds, tube
| rose, and orris 70" two-thirds of the
violet essence generally sold. The gen.
uine esse" @ violets is only to be pro-
cured at special places and at exorbi-
tant pri es.
OF fl '4g of permanent scents, the
princil o. are musk, vanilla, ambergris,
orris, vitivert. Orris is perhaps
more sed than any other. and enters
larg,l into the composition of all pop
ular {, ntifrices. From the odors al
ready known, we may produce by proper
combinations the scent of almost every
flower that blows, except the jasmine.
1t is the one perfume that defies spuri-
Gus imitation. 1t seems almost heed
less to say that otto of roses comes
chiefly from the East. The rose-fields
| of kizanlik, In Roumelia, and the sweet
valleys of Cashmere give us the altar
/ gul renowned over the whole world.
| BIZ there is very sweet otto of rose
mate from the beautiful Provence roses
! that grow to such perfection at Cannes
( au3 Gtnsse. The flow er has rather
/ subtle clor, arising, It is said, from the
hces ing the pollen of the orange
fovCg- 10 the roscbads. TIE otto is
Obtained Ivy maceratlon and enaturage
Tic Whole south Of Europe is what
oue ae' call the pertumer's happy
1 ia 5iu efound. Cannes and Nice are
especid famous. There, On the mild
sea coast grows the delicate cassie that
can scateely bear blast; at the foot OF
the mountains, the violets are sweeter
| than if grown in the sheltered valleys,
where the orange, tuberose, and mig
nonette attain to such marvellous per
lection. But flowers are grown for per.
/ fumery purposes in many other places
Mines is famous for its rosemary and
thyme, Nice for its yiolets, Sicily for its
lemons and bergamot, and England is
famous for lavender and peppermint;
the latter always commanding high
price in foreign markets, as it forms
the general mouth-wash used on the
continent. The lavender grown at Mitch.
am and Hitchin is about eight times
the value of that grown in France and
Italy; and for ordinary use there is nc
sweeter perfume than good lavender
water. = Cham bers' Journal