The true northerner., 1884-09-18
MExICO's FAvORITE BEVERAGE.
Pulquc, the National Drink, and How It II
Manufactured.


Pulquc, the National Drink, and How IL IL
Manufactured.
Wishing to see for ourselves the
whole process of pulque making we
journeyed to the plains of Apam not
long since, to visit the maguey hacien-
da. The tlachiquero took us in charge
-thatpfficial who is practical chief of
both plantation and factory. We made
a rather picturesque caravan as We
sailed forth in pursuit of information.
First rode the tlachiquero, his bronze
skin contrasting well with his white
dress, his immense sombrero and
leather apron, and the implements of
his profession dangling from his belt.
Betsey and L followed, mounted upon
donkeys so diminutive that our dresses
nearly dragged upon the ground, our
beauty enhanced by blue goggles,
which experience has taught us the
value of wearing in this sunny country.
The poems brought up the rear, each
driving donkey laden with pig-skins.
into which the aqua miel was to be
poured. The tlachiquero tells me that
he goes periodically among his vegeta-
bic cows, marking those which have
reached the period of effiorescence and
are, therefore, ready for milking, by
cutting q cross upon the topmost leaf.
Three times day for three months
each is milked-at o'clock a. M, at I
a. m, and again at 3 p. m.-the poor
est yielding at least 125 gallons before
it dies.
We went from plant to plant, watch
ing the process of inserting the gourd
with the cow's-horn point and sucking
of the siphon till the "cows" were all
exhausted, and then our little caravan
took up its line of march for the tina
cal or vat-house. This is an enormous
adobe shed, with earthen floor kept
clean as the deck of man-of-war. We
entered in solemn procession, each
peon as he passed the threshold re-
moving his sombrero and piously ejac-
ulating Alabo a Diosi-"I praise God !"
One side of the building is occupied by
huge vats of ox-hide, the hairy side up,
called tinds. In each tina was thick
curd of mddre (mother) pulque, which
performed the Office of leaven, and
whose very ancient and fishy smell"
outrivaled far-famed Cologne. When
the pig-skins had been carefully opened
and the aqua miet was ready for pour
ing out, the tlachiquero seized long
stake, which is always kept ready for
the purpose, and made the sign of the
cross in the rotten curds, exclaiming
devoutly: "Auo Maria purissima"
to which the Indians fervently re-
sponded, "Alabad sea Dyos q la San
tiSsinaG Trinidad"-"We praise God
and the sacred Srinity." What would
happen to the prologue if any of this
pious performance were neglected am
unable to state, for never within the
memory of the oldest inhabitant has it
been omitted or curtailed. After about
three hours of fermentation in the vats,
the liquor is drawn into barrels for the
pulque shops and the flower-decked
booths which adorn all the highways
and byways of Mexico.
They mix religion with their drinks,
as with everything else in this Catholic
country, in a manner which elsewhere
would be considered somewhat sacri-
legious Every pulqueria has picture
of the Blessed Virgin or its patron saint
hung above the barrels, and a little
shrine with crucifx and burning
candles is crowded among the bottles.
The names of these shops are frequent
ly more religious than appropriate.
For instance, one opposite my window
is called La Cantina del Merced-the
saloon of mercy; that on the near
est corner is christened "The True
Faith" and little further down the
street is another dedicated "To the
Mother of God!" Another rejoices
under the rather ambiguous title,
Vdmos al guJo del Merico! "let us go
to the Gulf of Mexico;" and scores of
them are dedicated to Jesus, ST. Joseph,
st. John, St. Peter, ST. Paul, Saints
sima Maria, and all the other virgins,
saints, and angels known in the calen-
dar.-Mericao Cor. Springfield Re
publican.