Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-12-27

lation to their wardrobes in general or any part
OF 1t In particular.
Tulle dresses are expensive for another rea-
son. They are always made to order and for
the occasion. They cannot be made and kept
on hand. They are too frail and delicate. They
almost melt on being exposed to the ar.-they
do quite on being brought into the least actual
contact with warmth and moisture 80 although
o white tulle dress Is the ideal Of costumes for
lovely young maiden. its actual use Ia necessa-
rily limited. Spngged net embroidered net or
spangled net takes the place OF tulle-after one
or two blissful evenings-and then the illusion
ID over in double sense
PULLING QUESTION.
Sometimes, however. problem like this pre-
sents itself a girl may beyoung and handsome
but in large style which needs toning down
and cannot stand the wave-like expansion of
tulle or the actual increase in size created by
the wearing of an al-white toilet Such gues-
ton was solved recently by the substitution of
pale grey silk muslin. draped closely over soft
grey silk and trimmed with fine white oriental
lace. The flowers were large bouquet of deli
cate pink roses. Tulles are usually made with
low oodices and with only the lightest puff or
strap for sleeve. Satin bodiCes are also still en-
ployed with drapery of tue in the form Of
Grecian fOlds-fOlds crossed to one side-Or they
are laid over and to outline the bust and to
form the curve under the arm, the back folds
Joining in straight line or descending in
point.
Low bodices are less used by married ladies
and all ladies of mature age than last season.
perhaps because the season of balls has hardly
begun. 1t would indeed be hopeful sign if
one could say that it was permanent improve
ment, caused by the actual realization among
grown women of the lack of dignity. sense and
propriety in this exposure, particularly in
climate which at other parts Of the "a hours Is
supposed to require cloth and seal-skin for
comfort.
NEW FEATURES IN WINTER GARMENTS.
very stylish little garment for young ladies
is velvet vsite. very short upon the back,
almost straight across. but having little full
ness pleated and held in at the waist line by an
interior belt, and a fur cOllarette which is
rounded upon the back, but desceuds TO point
in front. where it is fastened by bronze. oXy-
dised silver. or carved wood clasp. The lining
is of thinly quilted Satin and the garment.
which is 10 any dark shade OF velvet that har-
monies with the costume. sits very close and
jauntilv to the figure. pretty costume is made,
for example, in light shade of wood brown.
braided In slender diagonal straps or bars with
narrow braid shade darker than the material,
the heading tiny round knitted silk buttons,
which form double row-a second one upon
intermediate bands which are shorter than the
principal ones, The visites worn with this
dress will be Of dark brown velvet, trimmed
with natural beaver fur. The bonnet will be Of
the velvet also with shaded feathers, and the
muff of natural beaver.
Long silk cloaks are fast disappearing. Nat
urally they are worn by those who possess them.
but they are no longer recommended and are
not seen among the late impOrtations. The
latest style of long cloak is of cloth. fine smooth
finished or wrought as preferred. The smooth
finished are lined with silk and have secondary
silk plated fronts; also long narrow silk lined
hood with recerS Of cloth. The sleeves are
revival of the moderate flowing sleeves Of
twenty-five years ago and are shortest upon the
inner part Of the arm. where they are turned up
with silk. This is a most useful and lady-like
morning walking cloak. and may be used for
driving or travelling in mild climates. Very
handsome ClOaks OF rOughened cameIs hair have
the loose sleeves and are very warm, but they
are light in weight and finished with Russian
collar and wide bands down the front and around
the sleeves of natural lynx. a long yeowish
white fur that is immensely stylish in effect for
an exceptional purpose of this kind.
Exclusive and very elegant dress wraps for
visiting. much used for ceremOnious calls and
afternoon receptions. are made of embossed
velvet. hand embroidered in outline, with che
nile and fine cut jet or dark irridiscent beads.
This work is done by expert wOrkW omen to order.
and Arnold d Constable have made speciality
OF such garments, their productions far sur
passing those received from Paris. There is also
another advantage in these specally-made
wraps, that each part is indivduaized; fringes,
buttons, ornaments, all are made for it. and if a
lady chooses to pay the cost will be seen upon
no other. This special workmanship is char
aeteristic OF the finest houses, and is the secret
of the high prices demanded and obtained.
Fabrics are specially dyed, designs specially
made, aud the workmanship specially done
down to the smallest detail. and no ineXperi-
enced person could possibly understand what it
mas taken to produce the undefinable effect until
they try to match shade. a pattern. bit of
trimming. and then they discover that they are
unmatchable. To show the pains taken | will
use an actual occurrence. A lady wrote to
well-known house for costume OF mouse
colored velvet. Samples were sent of greys and
stone color and mousse (moss green). which she
returned with the declaration that these were
not what she wanted: she desired actual aud
veritable mouse color. The firm sent abroad for
1t. The color was not in existence. The foreign
dyers experimental and finally succeeded in
producing it, This year-one year after her
appllcatOn-the costume was obtained and the
lady proudly exhibits 1.-THE skill of two CONT
nents having been required to produce that
innocent-looking gown.
EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEFs.
Handkerchief are now genuine articles de
lure; it could never be dreamed they We're meant
for use. The French take the lead In the pro-
duction of these pretty toilet accessories and
the styles of the season show great variety OF
the most exquisite embroidery design in jardi-
Mere colors and patterns. Few of the borders
have straight edge. Most OF them are daintily
1uted or plated or festooned or finished with
buttOn-hole stitch In delicate points or scoops.
Borders are Deep sometimes composed Of minute
dots, sometimes Of lines On coored ground.
sometimes OF lovely small sprays of flowers
thrown upon the dotted lines. Others have half
wreatbs in the corners which are filled in with
sprays or leaves or initials; and still others
drawnwork, with fine vine-like patterns be-
tween, and wrought edges. Quite new design
has an initial In satin stitch to match the tiny
plated edge, bronze or garnet, for example. the
pretty design in needle work being executed in
pale pink and blue. These handkerchiefs range
from 90 to $40 each, and, Of course, are Of fine
they are employed to tuck In vest pocket or
retcule 80 that the corners will be displayed,
which Is the reason why corners in handker-
chiefs are 80 deliberately Ornamented.
JENNY JUNE
The Power OF the Imagination.
From the Baltimore Sun