The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-11-22
FASHIONABLE FURs.
Styles of the Garments which VIII Find
Favor this Winter with the Fair Sex.

varied shapes in vogue for the richest velvet and
cloth garments. The long dolman, covering the
wearer from head to foot, is now made in sever
al designs, and the weight formerly complained
of as too great for the shoulders is equalZed by
the use of elastic belt inside the lining, which
also serves to hold the back of the waist close to
the wearer in the graceful way in favor. This
closely fitted back and sides Of the waist with
or without fullness below, while the fronts hang
straight and loose, is one of the features
of new seal cloaks. The high, full shoulders
also introduced for those to whom they
are becoming, and the sleeves are large, so that
the cloak may be easily removed; these graceful
elbow sleeves open squarely at the wrist, or else
they are cut flowing in the Oriental shapes.
Lengthwlse trimmings of a different fur in front
and back are in great favor and the border at
the foot gives a rich finish, hut this border
must be ommitted if the wearer is short, it
detraets from the apparent height. Full trim
mings about the neck and arms are Objectionable
for stout figures hence, instead of a separate
collar, the trimming is now set on the lining
around the neck without any seal fur beneath
1t; this makes the wrap less clumsy about the
throat, and for similar reasons many stout ladies
prefer the plain, velvet like seal, in its rich
beauty, without additional trimming The
The uutrimmed seal garment is also chosen by
economists whose best outlay of money
is in q garment of fine fur, cut in
new STYLE and stylish shape, to which
trimming may be added hereafter to
effect some change required by fashion. Trim
mings of short. close furs such as natural beaver
the luxurious long feeces are becoming to those
who are slight; among these are the royal sahles
in plain bands, or of tails in rows, or else pend
emit below the border the dark fisher tail the
black fox, silver fox the blue fox, which has
stone colored tints, the black marten, which is
effective, yet not costly, and is now thoroughly
deodorized.
Brown satin, very slightly quilted is the lining
most used. and in some garments there are
gayer tnts and all quilting is omitted in order
to make the garment more flexible. Bars of seal
with loops of passementeI'ie cord are the fasten-
ings most used. Among these rich eloaks is the
Ristori, with partly fitted back, open below the
waist, square sleeves, and double-breasted front,
with Russian collar; this is of elegant cut
that may be plain, but it is
also shown with the rich borders just
mentioned. The Gaiatea is a long, slender
cloak with the back as closely fitted
as if made of CLOTH the high -shouldered sleeves
extend far into the back, and have seal-skn
cuffs added when there is no border of other
fur it has also both standing collar and one
that is turned down. The Gretry is only three
quarters fitted to the figure, and has flowing
Oriental sleeves; both this and the Galatea
made more youthful and slender looking by
lengthwise trimmings. One of the newest
models called La Favorite is shaped like the
mantle -redingote, with the waist tight behind
while the full skirt is pleated in below; the front
hangs straight and the high sleeves are close to
the arms, with deep cuffs trimmed around at their
top near the elbow This full back of the skirt
is excellent with bouifant costumes. These
garments also have the fronts trimmed with a
fold of sealskin, next which is the fox or sable
border put in a roll like binding and con
tinued around the neck to represent a boa.
SEAL MANTLEs
Short NANTES of sealskin are among the new
garments this winter Some of these are in the
shapes just noted for long garments, but are cut
as short as visite or mantilla, falling usually
longer in front than behind, where they merely
cover the tournure. The short Gretry and
Galatea are graceful and warm-looking when
trimmed with a mink border with pendent tails
or with black marten, or the handsome three
quarter plucked beaver bands. There also
untrimmed seal visites that are very youthful
and dressy-looking, while others have passemen-
terie ornaments them, and clasps of carved
wood or stained ivory, representing two antique
heads still others edged with fringe made
of sealskin balls tied i'll meshes of silk cords.
SEAL JACKETS AND sAcoUEs.
Sealskin jackets are shown in small Sizes
smoothly fitted as Jersey waists are, and are
known Jersey jackets. These are for quite
young ladies, are worn without trimming, and
cost as low as $50 much as $3.50 The pop
ular seal sacque, which is always useful for long
drives, for the country and for general wear. is
now made less clumsy in shape by being fitted
more closely in the back and Sides the fronts
remain loose and straight, and have coat col
lar that may be turned up about the throat, or
else turned down to form lapels. They measure
from thirty seven to forty-one inches in length
and when well fitted are very handsome, either
pain Ut HIuely DOEuefcu, DIS Hlduy
of them are, with black marten, natu-
raj coon, beaver, sable-tail trimmings
Hudson bay sable borders with tails
in rows, and the narrow heading that is needed
to complete them, are very effective these
sacques In selecting seal garments the pur-
chaser should make that in every part the
pile Of the fleece is made to turn upwards, as it
will then naturally drop downwards and disclose
its rich depths; when brushing or stroking this
fur the movement should always be upwards
The reader is also again warned against allowing
seal-skin to be dampened; but when this hap
pens, fur must not be dried by artificial heat
but by hanging out-of-doors, or else in cold
room.
FURS FICHUs AND PELERINEs.
The novelty in small seal capes is called
fchu, and consists of a scarf mantle that
merely reaches to the waist line behind, and
has half-long pointed fronts 1t is edged with
seal-skin fringe, and has high standing col
lar fastened by a fanciful clasp. The
seal pelerines so popular with young ladies, to
give needed warmth over closely fitted velvet or
cloth redingotes or sacques, are now made with
the high shouldered effects, and of even
length all around, barely escaping the waist line
These are by no means confined to ealskin,
but are especially liked in otter and beaver to
match trimmings on fur garments. Mink perler-
ines are also in fashion, and are especially valu
able when made of the dark tails of the animal
Russian sable perlerines of great beauty
shown made of tails entirely costing $3.50
though others of lighter sable are sold for 800,
The general choice in these capes is for seal, bea
yer, Astrakhan, or mink and in these inexpen-
sive furs they cost from $40 upwards, and afford
great comfort, as they admirably the deli
cate chest and shoulder blades, and are of very
light weight
SIUFFs AND COLLARS.
Muffs are sold to match the capes Just de
scrbed, ard when made round are not larger
than those of last year. Flat muffs are now
commended, and are slightly curved to hold the
hands nicely. Sometimes these have close short
fur in the back, with different long fleece in all
the part seen in front. thus the front will be
silver fox and the back of seal skin, else a
.chinchilla muff will have merely a silk back
The long chasuble and scarf-like collars remain
in vogue, and with muff, complete the set of
fur; but it is now more usual to trim the outer
garment with fur around the neck, ard choose