National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1884-11-08
THE ART Of DRESSING.
Bison Cloth Suits and How Made
Fur Trimmings to be the Rnge-seni
and Nut Browns tho Favorito
Coiors-EIegnnt Dinner Dresses and


It Is evident that the embroidered bison
cloth is constantly growing in favor. The
skirts are made from plain solid colors,
while the bodies and drapery are COM
posed Of tho embroidered fabric. It is
done by sewing machines in different
brilliant tints. For instance, pink or
garnet rosebuds have olive or myrtle
green leaves for the foliage, and some-
times q combination Of both shades of
green. Those are put on In detached
clusters. Then there are gorgeous pansy
designs, embracing half dozen shades in
one blossom, aud perfect limitations Of nat
ural flowers. Other patterns arc ombroi-
dored in large red or golden bronze leaves
scattered over tho surface. The style Of
making up this novel and attractive
material Is In tailor made suits, with
short coat-shaped basque, and falling from
the back of this \ double box-plait OK
tending to the top of the last founce on
the underskirt. The front and sides Of
the overdross are cut whole and fastened
to the skirt at tho hips with q succession
Of plait5. For tho street and carriage
these suits are trimmed with fur bands or
beaver plush. Tho hat is made to match.
A high, conical crown is composed of tho
embroidered cloth, and has poke brim,
standing erect, and covered on the out
side with n shirred pulling of velvet la
the same shade. Very little garnituse is
employed, the only ornamentation bong
bird and cluster Of pompons, tho plum
age Of which have different shadings of
tho same solid color Us tho velvet
and cloth, sometimes onlivoned by
crimson or gold tints. Nearly every
thing that eau DO trimmed with
fur is so. trimmed for carriage and
promenade purposes This fact will have
tendency to advance the price in tho
skins Of all fur-boaring animals as the
cold weather approaches, and the depress.
ing effects on business of the political
campaign are cnded by tho presidential
election. 1t Is evident. however that tho
fur dealers are expecting great call for
sealskin garments, as well as beaver otter,
and fox trimmings, since the largest as
sentiments of these goods arc to be found
at oil the leading dry goods stores as we'll
as at the regular furriers. The English
dyed skins bring high prices, both at
Wholesale aud retail. American colored
furs arc scarcely worth buying at any
price. The sealskin and otter, which are
dyed deep brown, turn red in patches,
and look shabby after having been OK
posed to o rainstorm in American dye,
while tho English colored furs shed the
water as q duck or goose does while in
swimming. Fur garments arc Of little
service If they cannot be worn in a storm
without spelling their beauty of finish be-
yond redemption. and it is, therefore, safe
to say that the American dyed goods are
dear at any price.
Olive browns and greens seem to have
gone out Of date altogether. and are super
seded by seal and nut browns and St.
Patrick's green. None Of the dry goods
firms display materials for dresses, cloaks.
or other garments in the olive shades.
Why they were ever introduced 10 O won
der to most ladies of taste. No tint was
ever so unbecoming to the complexion of
either the blonde or brunette types, and
there seems to be no good reason for tho
introduction Of such muddy hue, except
that the inventor had exhausted his ro-
sources for something novel in shades.
A style quito ultra and attractive for q
young lady as visiting dress is made
with the combination Of three tints, and
also three different materials. The skirt
is of slate blue faille, trimmed with three
rows of side plaits. and over this whole
drapery cut in long, scalloped points,
heavily embroidered in scroll designs.
silk. of a yellowish cream tint, made in
long cornucopi@ points falling to the bot
tom of the skirt, and trimmed with nut
brown velvet. A vest front is also of
velvet, trimmed with q massive bow in
front. The points are ornamented with
gold buttons, as also are the cuffs upon
the close sleeves. A bonnet Is made to
match of slnte-blue ottoman, garnished
with pansies or asters in the pale yellow
shade and having brown oentsrs to match
the velvet trimming.
Another house toilet. to DO worn on re-
ception days, is made with skirt and
puffed vest Of dark green satin merveil-
leux, with q polonaise of velvet 10 q
tritle lighter tint, and trimmed with
bands Of clipped marabeau in tho color
and imitation of sable fur. The front of
the skirt and corsage is ornamented with
gold passementerie. A worry gorgeous
dinner dr., s. is composed of silver-gray
satin skirt, with body and drapery com
posed Of pink and garnet embossed satin
and ornamented with knots of corded
satin ribbons. Tho corsage is cut open
slightly in front and filled in with jabot
of lace, pink roses to match the emboss-
ing. A handsome promenade suit Is COM
posed of mahogany bison cloth skirt,
made in narrow tucks across the front and
sides, with panels Of velvet of same shade,
enlivened with gilt braid, put on in tri-
angle designs; gray cloth mantle,
trimmed with sable fur OF bands of ma
hogany velvot to match; an immense
poke bonnet of gray felt crown and
with birds and made feather ornaments.
Very elegant dinner dresses are of
heavily embroidered silk or satin. the
designs being in erasive needlework
representing lilies, grasses, and cat-tail
flags. The color 10 quite dark, In either
green, garnet, blue and brown, and the
flowers and grasses bright and snowy
enough to relieve the effect of the somber
shades. The fronts of the skirt and cor
sage. also panels for drapery, are en-
broidered. The corsags Is cut pompadour,
and the sleeves below the elbow, and
finished with ruchings Of real lace. For
promenade and carriage purposes very
fashionable shade is of blush gray cloth,
the skirt Of the plain solid color, and the
corsage and trimmings or drapery of
embroidered on ground of same tint. 1t is
seldom that dresses for brides are men,
toned in fashion letters and it therefore
becomes the duty of tho Mercury
fashion writer to do something by
way of onlightening these very
much neglected creatures. As some
of these toilets havo recently been brought
to the writer's notice, the readers of this
paper shall have the benefit of a peep be-
hind the scenes before the event for which
they are designed occurs. One is Of glearn-
ing white Irish poplin. The entire front
is covered with cascades OF duchess lace,
put on diagonally. The corsage is adorned
to match. The cascades of lace are inter-
spersed with clusters of tube roses and
orange blossoms with waxen green leaves.
The veil is of Brussels net and falls very
Call eka
composed of creani-tinted broche. The
drapery and trimmings on tho train is
cut in curved points and filled in be-
tween the hollows with Valenciennes
lace rutiies, made from very narrow
edging The oorsage and train are of
plain cream satin. The basque is outlined
by smilax vines, mingled with orange flow