Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-07-19
THE PRESIDENTS TABLE.
How the State Dinners at the Whit
House are prepared.

| How the State Dinners at the White
House are Prepared.
HOW PRESIDENT hTHpa IMPROVED UPON THE
PRACTICE OF his NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
AND COSTLY DINNERS PREPARED IN THE WHITE
HOUSE KITCHENr,soNE., PARTICULARS OF THE
METHODS FOLLOWED IN EVOLVING GOOD
| DNNER-THE PRESIDENTS WINES, CIGARS,
I ETC. a.
President Arthur has rat surpassed all his pre-
decessors in the matter Of entertaining at the
White House, and has Set, an example of excel
ence and elegance In table appointments which
will be difficult for his suceessorsto follow with
out going pretty dep into their pockets.
Since the President first entered the White
House he has entertained his guests most hospi
taby, but it was not until the past winter that
he gave series Of state dinners which exceled
any similar occasions at the White House.
Besides giving the customary diplomatic,
7 Cabinet, and judicial dinners, all the
Senators and Representatives in Con-
gress with their wives were invited to sit at
his table. Thus 1t was that nine expensive and
elegant repasts were served in the state dining
room, the guests in each instance numbering
from thirty-six to 1fty-four. They were very
elaborate and formal affairs, and Senator An
| thony, who is recognized authority IN such
matters, pronounced them perfection The Presi-
dent Is not particularly given to 1.-The repairs Of
the table himself but he is very particular always
to have before him and his guests the best the
market affords. In former administrations it
was customary to give the state dinners in
sort OF picked-up style. There was a steward
and cook, of course, but when it became ne
cessary to give dinner to the representatives
OF foreign gOyernments-critics from the best
tables of Europe-they were unequal to the
task, and outside assistance was always re-
CURED. Thus it was that Jacobs and Crutchett,
OF culinary lame, for years superintended the
preparation OF the state dinners. The cooking
was nearly all done outside and carried to the
White House in big hand-barrows. This way of
doing 1t looked too much like having your
meals sent in; there was naturally haggng over
the contracts and danger of imposition and
unsuccessful dinners.
PRESIDENT ARTHUR's PLAN.
President Arthur determined that all enter
tainments given at the White House should be
gotten up in his own household. He secured as
steward Mr.. Howard Williams who was for
twelve years with Roscoe Conkng, and whose
ability as manager he well knew. Mr.. Will
liams is cOlored man Of very fine personal ap-
pearance, well educated and has made triumph
OF his stewardship. The President also recognized
the fact that French cook is Indispensable to
big dinner An old time Virginia cook is good
enough for every day, and in many respects
u
wise the variety and the extensive ornamental
tl0n necessary on state occasions. Chef Forth
was brought from New York to superintend the
White House kitchen and receives salary of
81 800. He was cook for John Jacob Aston,
Jay Gould and Pinard, in New York, and is
truly chef
MAKING ROOM FOR MORE GUESTS.
Before President Arthur's time no more than
thirty-six people had ever been seated at the
table in the state dining room. The room would
not permit OF an extension of the table length
wise, and very ingenious plan was hit upon to
Increase its seating Capacity. The original width
was retained in the center, where the President
sits. opposite being Che seat of the hostess. From
these points the sides were given an outward
curved shape In either direction to the corners,
where the extreme width was reached. some
thing like an hour glass. BY this means room
was obtained for fifty-four persons, whose seats
were so arranged that they would all nearly face
one another. The way in which this large num-
Der OF guests are seated without confusion or
mistakes Is very simple. Each gentleman upon
arrival is presented with an envelope containing
card. upon which is written the name of the
lady he Is to escort TO the table On the reverse
of the card is diagram Of the table. with the
seats numbered. commencing at the entrance
and running to the right. The numbers of the
seats they are to occupy are checked upon the
diagram, and knowing that the lady is to sit on
MS right the proper places are generally found
ut once and without further guidance
THE COST OF THE DINNERS
The series of dinners Of last season referred to
cost at least $40 per plate. In nearly every in
stance there were fifty guests at the table, so
that the actual cost Of the nine dinners was
about 5000. This was not the extent of the
P Presidents hospitality, however, for there were
quite number OF private dinners given during
the season to prominent persons or personal
fnl h l-nf- furn willie
sample of the state dinners of the last season.
being the menu for the dinner given to the dip
lOmatic corps on the 9th Of February last, the
guests numbering fifty:
Huitres. en- cOquille-Chablis.
COnsOmme a la dOreans-Sherfy
Hors d'Oeuvre-Pet ties Timbales la Nilsson
Poisson-Filets ROuget la cardinal; olives.
Pommes Observation-Disclosures p:
.Releve-Selle de Venasor, sauce cherand,
haircOts verts, au Benrne-Grau Larse.
: Entrees-Filets de Pntarde, supreme aux
trutfes-Perier Jouet g. Co. Terrapins la
Maryland. Chaud frOid d'oiseauX la Pinard
Punch-a Imperial.
Rote--Englsh pheasants au cresson-Cham-
bertin.
acknowledgements de celery
Legumes-Asperge au branches, sauce hol-
landais.
Rameynius la ParHesane.
Entremets-GrOs Baba au rhum.
Gelee-Rubance.
Glace-Tutti Frutti.
GateauX-SOrtiS.
Cate-Cognac, &c. The &c. meaning liouers
of five kinds. Chartreuse Maraschino, Anisette
Curacao and kirsch-W asser.
THE WINES.
By the above menu it will be seen that there
were over dozen different kinds OF liquor with
the dinner. When it is remembered that the
wines are estimated at one-third the whole
cost, it will be seen that they form
no small item of expense In enter
tanning in what is called the proper manner.
President Hayes. as is well known never had
wine at his table. He had number of small
State dinners during his administration. and IN
each of the last three years he gave diplomatic
lunch. The guests were Invited to meet the
diplomatic corps, and nearly thousand family
invitations were issued. The refreshments con-
sisted mainly Of cold dishes, such as salads cold
meats. etc, coffee, chocolate cake. ice cream.
etc. Those who attended these lunches did not |
consider them very elegant because of the
crowd and their push and greed. These three
entertainments were very expensive on account
of the number fed, though the fact that there
was wine in the bill lessened their cost con-
siderably.
Said an official of prominence who has had
worldwide experience in such matters to a
STAR reporter. "The question of whether a
President OF the United States has right to
abolish wine from his table on state occasions ia
rather delicate one, | think he has not In the
first place he is llinga public position, and has no
right to let his personal or private prejudices
enter into the matter. He deals directly with
the representatives of foreign governments who
ar fo knor Tho oti