Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1884-09-18
THE NEWYORK FASHIONS
WHAT ROSALINB mar mas TO tar L,
ABOUT FEMININE FANCIES,
A Winter az Nv0oi, yelyets, NiIKs ana
millinery -sNPtembsr Notes

40" Aohh. 9tPs= lH.--fFOphtts pro
!, pheay q winter OF wool, ard point with
4 oraculAr finger 10 hsaped mp Importation
awaiting the uur0llIoent Of H. cir mys
+, teries. New cJl1rs are there, among
, which come forth brighter greens, golden
, browns, grayish blues, blue or reddish
prune, brODzs and moss shades, almost
all blending diverse mixtures; the golden
brown often brownish gold, the bron 20
sreepish brown or browuiBh green, 60.
Such pleasing uncertainties kre wrought
in solid shades or in more or less intrl
cate and novel weavlngs, while under the
head OF noveltis3 ere eeen numerous
Sools, plain surfaced or otherwise, that
are diversified by cheerful patterns suoh
as straw berries in natural sizs and color,
say cherries, roses aoi the like. Block
patterns aud stripes In grave or bright
alterations are stylish, = very rotioesble
addition on some novelties heing a b0rder
band OF the new irise or ourled wesrinqs
initiating Aatrsksn. This last Is a special
feature Of the fall and will appear in
many ways apd classes If goods. The
perennial cashmere presents itself In q
never tiripg attraotivensss, bat new ysrie-
ties are illumined by minute silken
figures initiating embroidery, and cos
| e"Aeo o'o DoAAb pAcHHApA VI tho bNp IA
combination.
WOOL vELvRTs
are important in materials, and show q
firm twilled surface supporting raised
figures in large rep or with the thread
ourled over. -Tse lattel'S especially are
effective bur need tohing by an addition
Of plain goods to correspond. The same
may be said, however, of all fancy figured
goods which are seldom without a com
plement Of plain. Reps are prominent
and beginning with repped woolens OF
many degrees and running up to poplins
with silken simmer will assume q lead
ing position in winter garb, such lead be-
ing followed by mohairs and alpaoas.
The family Of cloths renew their lease OF
life, and while differing markedly, show
family likeness. Among them, nothing
is more full Of character than the bison
cloths, In which as q variety are the
bourette bisons where striking effects
arise by CROSS stitches holding down the
rough threads 80 as to form bars and
stripes. Roughest Of all come bison
| cloths striped with ourled Astrakan or
frise threads. Ribbed or twist cloth is
in more favor than the plain, while more
distinguished than any perhaps are
the Kensington cloths displaying
the new embrnideries arranged in
blocks running around the bottom
OF the costume or descending in psrpan-
dicular stripes. Kensington smbroideries
moreover, are rivaled by others done in
India, and tapestry cross stitches where
faded oolors are stylish. AstrakAn Jer-
sey cloth Is too bold a departure to con-
stitute more than limited part OF the
costume although sorawny individuals
may regard 1t as 3 blessing when made
into ampliiying jackets. Prunella is q
revival rather than novelty, and made
OF silk and wool, is plkin with raised
velvet figures.
The seer of but limited vision can Ssfe-
tell winter Of velvet. New o0lprs grow
enriched and softened in their elevation
from wool to silky stufts and an autumn
light glances on expanses Of smooth sur
face or such SIS are diversified by ourled
loops forming frlss figures, by chine or
ohangsable colored pile, by very novel
stripes of contrasting oOlors, some quite
wide, or by alternating stripes Of elk and
velvet, where the colors may be uniform
or different. Then there are gay velvets
figured either In satin or with velvet of
longer pile than the ground work. Cum
hlAk uOtb VI ehtiu HI5 buuk5n III anu
CLEAN out ooquettishly; small flowers or
pretty fruit such as strawberries or
cherries present counter attractions. In
greater dignity appear large flowers
in self color, and these will
be chosen by older ladies
and will be very fashionable for cloakinRs
but from the fanciful ideas Just mentioned
may be expected many bright touches in
n ynafariaI mani allv lookad uno., 40 k.ua
some Jet somewhat sober. As touches
and where rightly applied, they will be
most effective. Uncut velvet 10 largely
imported snd viii be in great demand.
The success Of velvslsen Ia also assured
and when really good as In the oase Of
the peerless Nonpsreil, 1t will be CON
siantly substituted and with satisfaction
TO both wesrer and bsholdsr. The new
thoughts find representation here Oolors
while novelties IN wear
ing give roCm for great choice.
Silks follow new oolors boih IN the
plain aud iu brooades, the latter espe
oially giving proof Of how much Gao be
dope by combinations. Stearn's Ameri-
can brocadss sre especially bsgufliui, the
patterns rich in the extreme, while fn
durability they surpSBs imported fabrics.
The American sil6 Industry has indeed
reached such proportions as would
surprise thOse Who have mot
studied tue subject. Foreign manuiAc-
tursTs dread It's growing power,
aud look spPreheraively upon the
popularity Of our maLu-
factures, particularly where such =
brand as the one Just mentioned com
Ineuds itself each year more and more,
5:earn's American aurahs are this year
likewise, quite up to ths usual standard.
Elegant, durable fast colorsd and
stylish, they are sought after by judicious
shoppers, since under the severest tests
spd oloe0 competition, they have won
verdict Of approval. To lady Of limited
mesns, dress OF this kind is a sure
refuge, while most attractive costumes are
being made up OF the suTahs aud brooade
n combination. Satins will be important
in fall wear and handsome b,ocsdes are
II velvet on satin grounds.
The perennial capOIe sppegys again, ,but
/ newer style that will commend itseif 10
iressy buyers by reason Of novelty
nod certain ooquettishuess, is q shape
ls small IS the oapote bnt with g sudden,
sharp peak above the forehead which IA
illed In with lace or ribbon. Small poke
bonnets are also largely imported, but
will probably be secondary to the pointed
shape just mentioned. Round hats show
nigh pointed crowns with narrow brims.
Choice OF material lies between felt and
velvet, the latter being very much used
also In trimming with lighter acoessories
'f black or fancy eilded laces and velvet
fibbon from two to three inches wide
which has sometimes reverse
eide Of gros grain or satin. Unout velvet
ribbon Is stylish, and the new frise or
purled velvst with satin ou the wrong
side is in keeping with the AstrAkau
tfsots III dress goods. Bizarre effects are
produced by fancy feathers put together
At random, a touoh Of the "OrEzy uuilt'
maG,a seeming to have reached the world
81 millinery. There is revel of patch
ing together which gives room for the
Of odds and ends. Birds hesds
repose on highly unsuitable breasts;
Wires emerge whore wings were
never meant TO be, while
OstIieh tips are placed in hsp.hAzSrd
style. There is a method in this mHd-
ness, however. For in the arrangement
Of all trimming the intent Is evident to
subtract from breadth and give hight.
ID a marked feature, as where
the crown Of velvet bonnet ia covered
by bright spray Of flowers wrought in
silk, or where the crown or brim OF a felt
hat shows an all over network Of fancy
stitching, these being only two examples
Of the many ways In which this novel
adjunct will appear.