Morning journal and courier., 1884-05-12

in gay colors, but the backgrounds are in | the new ecru shade now called "Suede"--in Panama the color of straw, and in tsOhampig- non" the pinkish shade of mushrooms. There
 are also the ''grsndmere'-fabric that copy
 to perfection in their weaving the stitches of l quilting. These come in many rich and ele- l and waistcoats to dresses of contrasting ma terial and pattern.
 It is said that low cut bodicss will be more | worn at the watering places on full dress oc- casions than they have been for many seasons past. In point of art, to say nothing of taste,
 they are mistake; for however well low cut bodice may set of beautifully moulded
 and snowy shoulders, they detract so much
 from the beauty of the face. There are many
 modes of remedying this defect, and among them is the revival of the large old style bertha of costly lace which completely veils the shoulders, but does notshide them. There are also the flower necklets, made entirely of blossoms with no foundation except the in- tsrtwining of the long stems. Flower fchus are also to be worn; these almost covering the back of the shoulders, coming round to the front in Q graceful curve, and falling be-
 low the waist in trailing ends of sm1lax,
 grasses, and delicate vines. These fchas are
 made of the most delicate colored and dimin-
 utive blossoms; white heather blooms, lilies
 of-the-valley, star flowers, sweet and white verbena being mostly chosen.
 In the preparation of superb and artistic
 reception and wedding toilets for the coming
 summer, many ladies, tall and slender of
 stature, are following the Valois stylein dress,
 and the fashion is exceedingly becoming and effective. One dress proposed for lady we'll known in society is made in exact copy of portrait of Marguerite de Valols. The train and bodice are of royal satin of pearl white tint, trimmed with 8 bou1llonne of white velvet, finished with wide coquilles of lace The front Is satin, preceded with silver flowers, and the bodice trimming shows 8 delft intermingling of velvet lace and brocade. Some of the new stylish round hats high and square of crown, and flat Of br1m, nave foundation of surah, overlaid with 8 beaded silk netting put on plainly or otherwise gath cred. Escurial net, brocaded silk gauge, or crepe are also used to veil the foundation. Fine ecru colored silk net, dotted with raised flowers in silk of a slightly darker tint, are much used for the purpose One elegant bonnet had 8 foundation of raspberry satin, with netting of silk canvas, dotted with beads of a raspberry tint, drawn over.
 Around the brin was 8 double row of lace,
 combining two shades of the same color, the
 lighter one going next the face; beaded or
 nament was set at one side, and no flowers
 were used. On tasteful bonnet of gray
 was set 8 bunch of artificial mushrooms.
 These were made of silk plush of the sottest
 tints, and bore remarkable resemblance to
 what M Soyer was wont to style, 'The pearls
 of the field" As it is not the season for
 mushrooms, 1t is singular that the milliners
 should choose this sort of decoration, as for
 a year past we have seen both flowers and fruits in season on bonnet and hat.
 What is to be worn is a question of mo- mentous importance that is agitating the minds of most ladies just now. Our shop keepers, keenly aware of this, have already |
 filled their windows with advanced spring | goods, or what are at present esteemed as | such in our backward climate. Sateens and | foulards seem likely to soon supersede cash- mere tweeds and other woolen fabrics, and these first mentioned are temptingly displayed this season side by side with warmer fabrics, and when gleam of sunshine shows up the unmistakable wear of a costume that has passed through the storms of the season past, l the necessity is instantly perceived of re- plenishing the wardrobe at once. It is a1- ways advisable, however, not to be persuaded into any rash or premature purchase. 'Wait 7while'' is maxim that one seldom regrets
 listening to. Prettisr and cheaper goods sye sure to appear later on, when all the ships have come in, and brought newer. greater ohoioe and variety. little renovation of the dark costumes already in store by the change of trimmings and 8 substitution Of collar, vest, and panels of velvet put quite new appearance on an old dress and tide it over the necessity of the hour. Should the case, however. be urgent, the purchase is best of one mid~season costume which may be put on and worn at once without interpolation if l With care it will do to meet all sxigencies except when evening dress is wanted, and most ladies' wardrobes are liber- ally provided with toilets of this description.
 Quaint little morning caps are now made of the small silk handkerchisfs sold in large numbers everywhere. These caps are care essly twisted, but specially arranged to cor respond to the style of hairdressing severally adopted by the wearers. Those who retain the coil st the back of the neck wear the ker- chief cap somewhat larger than those who adopt the new raised coifure. The effect in either case is usually becoming, and in ap- pearance quite Oriental looking. Neither needle nor thread is used in the construction of the cap, which is simply fixed in position by means of some of the pretty head-pins now in use. Very small gold or pearl-head- cd pins are unobtrusive, and so may be pre- ferred. The arrangement and good effect of these little head-dresses depend upon the taste of the wearer, they are laid fiat upon the crown of the head, with few Turkish folds at the sides and back, and slight full ness over the waves or rings of hair in front It is not every one who can gracefully shape B square of silk into tasteful cap by 8 simple twist of the wrist" Some women have natural aptitude for arranging triHing slegancies with ease and magic effect-s wisp of lace, length of ribbou, and flower, and behold! love of bonnet. There are fortu- nate women who look we'll in anything they may put on, be it muslin or brocade and there are unfortunate women who, wearing the richest materials and the most costly | lingerie, utterly fail to arrive at the becom- ing-women upon whom nothing looks it's best To look charming is by no means de- pendent upon beautiful face. Many peo- pie we meet who are most attractive without that desirable personal adjunct; they possess that admirable quality which the artists eolored servant said his master owned. "It is not for de paint nor de oil he nses that he axes $2, coo for de picture. It's fur de know how"
 The decline of beeswax is typical fact of the times. One must be artistic nothing. Beeswax is no longer artistic Our grar- danes used to keep bright the polish on the furniture with beeswax and the vigorous use of 'elbow grease" But the waxen polish is no longer Thigh art" and | it's present employment does not rise higher than the floor. The humble field daisy, | the clover blossom, and the plebeian weeds yesterday-are to-day the favorites of the drawing-roona. That half mysterious, wholly sacred spot, the 'best room," which the suns rays were never el- lowed to visit, with its hair-cloth sofas and chairs set in ghastly array, as is arranged by the undertaken for an occasion dear to his 0 oa n heart, has given way to sunny saloons, with their confusing display of fancy work, a1d gems and trifies from the worlds ends-a variegated picture of hsr- mony and beauty, with a background of 1adoes, golden walls, inlsid panels, and em- bossed woods.
 Match Making in Italy. How the Young Girls in Great Hos-
 PitaI are Provided With Husbands