The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1884-01-05
New Tailor Suits.


ferred by tailors for these costumes, as
experience has shown that no American
cloth dyed by the rapid processes in use
in this country will retain its color as
long as imported goods. 1t is the old
story of Haste makes waste" Amer
lean goods begin to be rusty soon after
wear. Stylish chestnut browns, dark
dahlia reds, wine color, navy blue and
dark bottle greens are the favorite colors
chosen for cloth suits.
Soutache braid trimmings are ex-
tensively used on cloth dresses this
season, and are usually chosen in the
same color as the cloth of the costume,
but are braided on contrasting back
ground in lighter shade; piece of
bright cloth or satin being set under the
braiding. Again, the braid may be
chosen in bright color in strong relief
from the shade of the cloth. New cos
tunes of cloth are SO made that the
garniture of soutache appears on diff
ferent parts of the costume, but is
never used in any set way.
A stylish suit recently made by a
prominent ladies tailor was of dark
llldH ItN COlhsCICW ClOlll. L HC uu-
derskirt which was made like all tailor
dresses, on a foundation skirt of silk,
was finished on the bottom by narrow
plating of cloth, and by fold of bright
red satin ornamented with parallel rows
of dark soutache braid in the color
the costume. The Greek drapery Of
the dress, which is bordered with four
rows of soutache braid on red satin,
was boutfant at the back, and fell in a
point on the right side and was caught
up high on the left side in heavy folds
to display a large single bOX-plait,
which was set on the side of the under
skirt and was braided down the center
over red satin. A jaunty little jacket
with a vest composed Of red satin braid
ed with horizontal rows of braid, was
the house waist of the dress, and was
finished on the edge with piping of
light red cloth and made at the back
with three hollow boX-plaits, down the
center of each of which was set strip
of red satin braided with dark sout-
ache. A basket-b braided square tack
of heavy embroidery silk in dark and
light red finishes the top of each of
these plaits. The high military collar
of the basque is of red satin braided
with dark red soutache, and braided
cuffs are set in the sleeve. The wrap
worn in the street with this suit is a
long four-button getaway coat piped
with bright red cloth and fastened with
a lapel collar Of dark Titan red velvet
Simple shopping suits of dark blue
or chestnut brown diagonal cloth are
made with foundation skirt of silk,
bordered with plating on the bottom
surmounted by four folds, which extend
to large triple boX-plait, which forms
q panel on the left side. The drapery
of the dress is extremely boutIant at
the back and is drawn up on the left
side in irregular fashion to display the
box at the side. A stylish little house
basque with three boX-plaits at the back
over the tournure, high military col
lar at the throat and simple slit pocket
at the sides completes stylish costume.
A handsome house dress of sapphire
blue corkscrew cloth is made with a
plain breadth of white military cloth in
front of the skirt, which is braided in
| clusters of golden soutache. The back
and side breadths of the dress are
finished with narrow plating on the
edge and draped at the sides and back
with full boul1ant breadths. The jacket
of the dress is finished with Breton
vest of white military cloth braided
with gold soutache. A high officers
collar of white cloth braided with gold,
| and a tiny cuff extending from under
the sleeve, finishes the basque, which is
fastened on either side to the vest by a
row of small tailor's buttons in sap,
| phire blue. A long paletot accom-.
panies this costume when chosen for q
carriage or calling dress. This paletot
is of sapphire blue cloth, and finished
with double rows of africa chinchilla
down the front and collar and cuff:
of the same fur. The wrap is fastened
together only as far as the waist, where
it falls apart to display the braided
tablier of the dress.
The most elegant costumes made
by tailors for carriage or reception
wear are of f heavy silk silk velvet with
| piisSeS of satin set in various parts o.
the costume. A magnificent dress O.
wine-colored velvet, recently made by
tailor for lady prominent in society
has skirt without drapery, which i.
perfectly plain in front and at the sides
while the back breadths are held il
three heavy boX-plaits. Two very mar
row plaitings, one of wine color an(
one of pale blue satin, edge the skirt a
the bottom. The corsage of the dress
is basque, which is laid in three hol
low box-plaits over the tournure, dowr
the center of which folds of pale blue
satin are set. The waist is turned bach
at the neck in small lapel collar
which displays pointed vest of blue
satin, finished high at the throat with ;
military collar A pale blue satin cuf
finishes the sleeve. A tight paletot il
worn in the carriage with this hand
some reception dress. This stylisl
garment extends to within nine inche
of the bottom of the skirt. Heavy box
plaits are set on each hip, down tn,
center of which fold of pale blue satil
is set Two rows of Russian sable trim
either side of the front, which is fast
ened as far as the waistby five Hun
garian knots of heavy cord. Cuffs ant
collars of Russian sable finish the necl
and sleeves. The wrap is lined through
out with pale blue satin and is left opel
at the back to the waist-line to Civ
room TOR the bouflant tournure of tn
dress Some dark velvet costumes ar
slashed in front and at the sides, an,