The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-12-06

the summit of our destination about neon, after
a tough trip, but the view that met our eyes re-
paid us for all of it. Standing on a divide
that separated two valleys as a wall, the Gran
Curral opened up at our feet as a splendid gorge
5000 feet below us. One of our party had spent
several months in the Grand Canon of the Col
orado, but he acknowledged to never having seen
a view so indescribably different. yet of the same
general character. A writer says of the Gran
Curral: 'One feels surprised, in gazing
on this scene, that its character of
wildness should become softened, and
its beauty increased by the plants and
shrubs which cling or have fastened themselves
into the assures of the rocks. These the eye
gradually makes out, and is led, by the small
and narrow cultivated strips on the 1edges,
until finally it rests on n secluded
church and some peasants huts imbeddedrin the
dark and luxuriant foliage beneath, whose peace
and q%uietness are in strong contrast with the
wildneSs of nature above" Goat herds, tended
by shepherds. and brownish huts here and there
give the landscape a different character from the
white cottage and vineyards along the shores.
These cottages are built of blocks of lava. with
out plaster, with walls about six feet high, and
have a matched roof of broom or straw. brought
up to a pole in the center for its support.
Serving our ldnch, a rain storm came slowly
sweeping up the gorge, till, striking the divide on
which We stood, the clouds rolled at our feet
over the ridge into the valley below. The heavy
rain and slippery rocks made our descent both
tedious and hazardous, but we arrived in town
before dark, wet and tired, but we'll repaid for
our trip, taking everything into consideration.
Next day, by invitation, a party of us visited
several villas of the well to do wine merchants
of Funchal. These residences, up in the noun
talns, are only occupied in the summer, being
damp and cold in the winter. The grounds
were well laid out, and the views of the town
and sea below were quite pleasant. We rode
horseback to the eastern end of the island and
inspected some cottages, vineyards and -four
mills. Nothing could be more crude than these
mills. The water supply is limited, and each
mill only has it for a limited number OF hours.
The stones are crude, the machinery simple, and
the toll unusually high, the owner charging
from one quarter to one third for grinding. We
saw also a level plat of ground on the crest of a
hill containing about ten acres. 1t is sravely
pointed out as a freak of nature, but our appre-
citation of it was due to the fact that it gave US a
chance to try our horses.
AT dinner we had some famous wines, the best
being some Madeira of the vintage of 1880. Our
host was Mr.. q. B. Welsh, tho ONLY American
on the island besides the consul. His grand
father before him was q wine merchant, but
years in a tropical climate has given him a
swarthiness not very American. He still retains
his allegiance, but is, nevertheless, the Swedish
and Russian consul at Funchal. His firm does
the largest business on the island, and he gave
us some interesting Information on the wine
trade. Madeira is not holding its own in the
worlds market. The American trade has fallen
off very extensively. Before our civil war every
Southern gentleman had his cellar stocked with
it, and the South took nearly one fourth of all
the Madeira made. For one thing, the wines
themselves are not as good as formerly. Sew
eral terrible blights have nearly destroyed the
vines. That of 1855 nearly broke up the wine
trade. American vines, which have been found
to resist the blight, are now extensively grated
on the old stocks. The result is a deterioration
in the vine. The quality of all wines very much
depends on the peculiar soil and exposure and to
the state of maturity of the grape. Often one
vineyard will have a worldwide reputation,
while its next heighbor, apparently as we'll stu
ated, Will not produce a grape above the medium
grade. The Juice is still pressed out i'm the
primitive method, which modern appliances have
singularly failed to supplant. the press is a
large rectangular box, and the pressure is OBJ
tanned by the feet of numerous Portuguese, who,
with hldeous shouts and copiouS perspiration,
stamp out the nectar of the gods. 1t is / believed,
in all seriousness on the island, that the
flavor of the wine is due to this
primitive process. The juice is put
INTO casks. undergoes fermentation. is clarified
with gypsum or ~isinglass and fortified by
brandy distilled from the refuse grape). two or
three gallons to the pipe (ninety-six gallons The
wine is not put on the market for at least eight
years. Particularly favorable warm winds from
Africa improve the grape and give certain years, as
1890 and 1915, a remarkably fine vintage. Eight
year wine sells for - per gallon in Funchal, the
price ranging up to $24 for the Oldest. Some
wines not in the market bring fancy prices.
Next to wine, Madeira is celebrated for basket
work, which may be obtained in endless variety
and for a mere sOIg. The inlaid woodwork is
elegant, but it does not stand a dry climate. The
laees, embroidery, etc, are remarkable for
cheapness' but are not otherwise peculiar. The
market is a fine one. Fish are cheap aud unex-
celled in variety. The climate varies with the
altitude and exposure. AT times a hot east wind
from Africa. called the harmattan, blows for
some days, and is exceedingly trying to man and
beast The frequent rains make the climate a
damp one, but it is, nevertheless, quite a health
resort.
The picturesque costume formerly in vogue
among the peasants is now only met with in the
mountains. The cap is very small, and looks
woven of wool and striped in red ana
white. The men are healthy. vigorous, and of
rather a contented disposition. er-population
has made some emigration necessary. and the
principal flow has been to the Sandwich Islands.
Prom what | saw and heard in Honolulu aid San
Francisco, the contract made with these people
practically binds them to slavery
of the worst kind. One of the three
representatives of the islands sent to the
Cortes at Lisbon was returned n Republican at
the last election (N. Republicanism, judging from
surface indications, is working hard for a foothold,
but as the elections are held in churches, there
is little hope that a fair count can ever be
obtained. A corrupt clergy, liquor and troops
have so far succeeded in rendering every cleo
ton a farce. More than one voter has been shot
down at the polls, and the troops here are cor.
daily hated. We encountered many hattering
demonstrations in favor of the long life of the
American and Madeira republics, but the latter
is far from an accomplished fact. Russians
and English constitute the chief foreign e!e-
ment. American trade is not very extensive.
Our Jealous consul, Mr.. Charlesworth, recently
appointed, promises, before long, to officially in
vestigate the various interests, and his consular
letters may be looked forward to with pleasure.
We left Madeira after a weeks stay quite
pleased with our visit and benefited by the
break in our cruise. A. p. N.
Professor Proctor and His Family.
Chicago News.