Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1884-07-24
THE SARATOGA FASHIONS
WHAT ROS4LTND MAY HAS TO TELL
ABOUT FEMININE FAECIES.
Age and Art-MnseuIfBe Millinery
shade Hsfs and Bonness.-Cos-
fumes-SpectoI ITOfIettes-Notes.

aud youth adores. Our actual Ssrstoes
is rather battle ground between age
and art. Young people are here. They
nirt, they make love but their elders are
In the ascsndanoy. Hair dyes are more
plentiful that msidsn's bushes, Routy
toes than spripginess OF 20. Puffy
matrous smile on beaux OF so. and
admirers OF so ogle inamorstss Of like
age. II is moreover on the female
division Of this veteran corps that one
sees for the most part those transporting
toilettes which (when read about) seem
scarce Of earth. The belle Of lS
dresses prettily but the belle Of
80 or 30 II attired far more
elaborately. Again, too, one asks,
Where are the young men Z" Empty
chairs re-echo the question and visions
arise OF dry goods houses where costless
they await customers, or bend over desks
while their charmingly dressed sisters
content themselves by vows of friendship
to other young mems sisters. Thinking
mothers discuss the situation and grsvely
remark that ''even when they have va
cation they prefer to go camping around
in the mountains" But the comforting
suggestion 10 made that 'ft is early yet,"
and they quit the disquieting subject.
The summer lover sees emerging from
q village cart a head covered by a
cheviot Derby, stitched into shape pre-
| oissly as o mans hat. He knows the
cart 1t is her brother undoubtedly and
With palpitating heart he thinks Of the
sister who causes that humping. A
nearer view disoloses feminine coil OF
hair bslow and the inamorsta herself is
recognizable. These heads, however, are
exceptions to Saratoga styles, appearing
only when an affsotation Of rustioisy is
sought after and now and then on morn
ing stroll, or poked from an omnibus
when the gauntlet is run Of hotel piazza
stsrers. But scattered atlarge through the
country and especially on the beach
and on yachting parties they
are liked because of imperviousness
to damp, and real utility. The costume
Of tailor stitched flannel with linen collars
Is imperative as an accompaniment.
Saratoga beauties take more kindly to
Vslenoiennes lace or Valsnciennes and
muslin pokes with oookade bows or
flowers, frequently the dress to match.
Leghorn flats seem perennial for piazza
wear, and this year are as much seen 40
ever. Very large and with amazing
ostrich feathers, profusion of white lace
within and without, and tnterminQlina
OF gay flowers, such as poppies or bright
roses, while rose pokes are very
ornate with the entire brim often
hidden by clusters Of roses. Null
pokes by greater simplicity, relieve the
eyes grown tired Of fnery. Roses and
Valenciennes lace give q pretty adorn-
ment. In quiet refinement are pale
colored mulls with delicste floral addi-
tions, though now and then poppy red
null bloms out with toning down Of
white aowers. Grapes Of one color or
richly brocaded grapes are used as shade
hat trimmings In place of either flowers
or feathers, while in cspotes which come
out for the afternoon drive, there is
rivalry between incredibly large families
Of Grape and straw.
In soft asoendanoy come forth null
robed figures and figures arraysd in dotted
and sprigged Swiss,t to say nothing ofiner
toilettes entirely of lace. Then there: is
the simple prettiness Of striped nuns
yelling united with surah and lace.
Newer nuns veilings are in oriental
oolorinRs with all-over patterns or bril-
liant unitings Of great palm leaves ON
colored grounds where such daring COM
binations as yellow leaves on red sur
face does not alarm. These figured
patterns are made up as overdresses with
an offset OF plain yelling or sursh skirt,
Lovely too are ohallies--more CLOSELY
woven than yelling but very thin and
with mixture of silk-delicately toned
surfaces bestrewn with small flowers
and usually relieved by silk. Canvas
fabrics play part and with their strik-
Ing colored embroideries are piqusnt in
the extreme for hrunettes but hardly del
ioate enough for the average blonde. Lace
and grenadine are favorite combinations,
young ladies' wearing the less pretentious
Qualities, while their elders indulge in
styles which are really gorgeous in pat
terms wrought in velvet or embossed
satin. Lovely costumes are made Of
india and China silks, while Stearn's
american brocades and surAhs are well
and II is evident that these
excellent silks have taken firm hold not
only among the wealthy who count their
by the dozen, but with
large class OF purchasers to
whom q silk dress Is silk dress and who
think we'll before buyine.
Aside from their known lasting qualities,
they are extremely handsome and varied
in cjloring, the brooades taking on each
hue which fashion dictates and the
striped surahs running the gauntlet of
svery stylish shade from pale gray to gay
'ontrastings. Made into combination
costumes, they form many of the most
attractive dresses at summer resorts.
Velvet dresses are beautifully softened
oy lace and contrasts between velvet
o3dies and white muslin or lace skirts
IRE rivaled by the white or surah waists
with thicker skirts.
SPECIAL TOILKTTRs.
NJ
With flowers OF deeper shade; skirt very
noufant looped back and double front;
basque with fichu drapery Of silk and
,lbow sleeves, both flushed with bows Of
lark blue ribbon. With this dress was
worn shade hat of white straw with
scing and scarf Of the same silk as the
iress. Parasol to match edged with white
ace. The same young lady wore an early
morning costume OF ecru satteen be.
'prinkled with dull red figures; full skirt
oordered at the bottom with q plated
iOunce and Joined at the band to a yoke
Taist; sash and belt of the same; straw
lat trimmed with red velvet and satteeu
oarasol to match dress.
Miss Astor, who is here on q flying
7isit from Newport-Cream white silk
'kirt covered with lace founoes; polo
1aise OF oriental net, matching the skirt
n color and pattern, full outer fronts Of
lark crimson velvet, the back drapsry
gathered and attached to the side form
and back pieces with bows Of crimson
velvet ribbon; straw hat trimmed with
creamery lace and crimson velvet; lace
severed parasol.
daughter Of Judge Hilton-Costums
u fine gray blue oamel's hair made with
plain, tight fitting bodice; belt and plain
gathered skirt with narrow plated fiounos
around the lower edge !; bonnet OF blue
'amers hair to match, plainly set on
band and strings Of gray blue satin RIB
bon bunch Of pink ohrysauthemums
high on one side (; plain silk parasol to
match.
a yellow batiste with red horseshoes
woven In is trimmed with yellow and red
Invisible nets are we'll nigh invisible,
because scarce ever seen. Most young
adde's wear their trout hair flying In the
breeze and showing much Of the forehead.
Black silk stockings are quite q rage
worn with several straps aoross the In
step.
Judging from piazza talk, one finds that
Nonpareil velveteen holds it's color and
tone until completely worn out, and is
the only real substitute for silk velvet.
Stylish walters are wearing camel's
hair buntings with striped borders which
contrast effectively. A broad band Of
stripes trims the skirt and narrow ouee