The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1884-12-25
BLACK DRESSES.
The Different Styles Which Are Being
Worn This Season.

Worn This Season.
One of tie fancies of this season is the
use of gilt braid on black silk dresses
for visiting or afternoon reception
dresses. The black silk chosen has the
thickest ottoman reps, and the gilt braid
is of two and sometimes of three widths,
the skirt having cross rows of all three
widths of braid placed between three
broad Panel-like plaits that are on the
front and side breadths. The broadest
IRA q is an inch wide, the next half an
nch, and the third is a fourth of an
nch. The basque is in very short pos
-ilion shape, with the narrowest braid
cove1ng vest in lengthwise rows, and
also placed in similar rows on the edge
of the basque. The drapery has nc
braid on it, and is merely short
wrinkled apron in front that con-
ceals the tops of the broad panel
plaits, while the back drapery covers
the foundation skirt, and is made
of two breadths of the silk punched very
full at the top and hanging straight be-
low. Another fashion is that of alter
nate cross rows of wide gilt braid and
fold of silk placed between the broad
plaits of the skirt. In other dresses the
braid on the basque is confined to
short Pompadour square below the col
lar, fashion in favor with those who
have long waist, as this does not en-
phasize their length as vests are thOught
to do. With such a dress worn at
Grace Church wedding, and afterward
at the reception at the house, the bon
net was of black velvet pinched to
sharp point above the forehead, and
edged inside the brim with a frill of
gold lace; on either side were upright
fan-plaitings of velvet and lace, and a
long gilt pin was thrust through one
side of the soft crown. For other
black dresses plain black velvet is used
for the basque, and the full skirt of fig
ured velvet-either frise or in wide
stripes-is draped above the edge of this
basque all around, instead of merely in
the back as was done last year. The
fullness is massed behind, and the pr:n-
cipal draping is in a single space or the
left side, where this full skirt is caught
up with seeming carelessness, but with
great precision, and held by clasp or
jet ornament that initiates a rOSette.
Other black dresses are made of satin
duchesse and jetted satin, which still
retain favor because their luster is nee
essary to make black becoming to those
who have very dark compilations. A
vest and petticoat fronts of jetted silk
trim these satin dresses, that are made
of very simple designs with a short
basque and the wrinkled apron drapery.
Small round or square jetted figures are
preferred to the large branching jet
flowers that have now become so COM
mon, and the material must be put on
plain instead of gathered full, as the
jetted nets and laces were done during
the summer.
Black dresses with red skirts and
vests are liked by young ladies; these
are made of cashmere or Henrietta
cloth, and the red is also wofjl, giving
a pretty variation to the cloth costumes,
which are most suitable for tie street,
while the cashmeres are for tho house.
One pretty fashion in this combination
has the front of the black cashmere
waist gathered on the shoulders quite
full, and then curved away under the
arms like Spanish jacket to disclose
a red cashmere vest beneath; the black
cashmere skirt then falls to the foot to
long wrinkled apron which
opens up the left side to show a red
breadth of cashmere. There is q
preference for using the bright poppy
red shades in these dresses instead of
the garnet and cardinal so long in
Bazaar.