Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-10-05

the gTags are SMOKED or brought to tone
that takes out all the chilliness and rem
ders them suggestive, If not sympathetic.
The newest and most desirable shade of
brown is the Lombard. 1t is a cross be-
tween wine-cOlor and seal-brown. with the
warmth Of the Lombard plum in its
depths. 1t is produced in the best camePs-
hair cloths, IN Pins best Irish poplIns,
and in nigh grades Of ''nonpareiP' vel
veteen. There is quite a movement in
Irish poplins, probably in consequence of
the beautifully-sOft finish and satisfactory
draping quality recently impaired to these
once so much admired fabrics. The
colors generally selected are dark wines,
green's, browns, smoke-grays, indigo or
invisible blues, and black-and the shades
are as fine and pure as are to be found in
the world.
A new departure has been made in an
Ottoman cord, called the duchess of AL
bany" cord, because the first were made
at the order Of that lady, and for her, in
garnet and smoke gray. Queen Victoria
also duplicated the order in black, but
there is less variety in color in the Albany
cord than in the usual style finish. For
quiet, rich dress, combined with a GER
tain stateliness of effect, there is nothing
equal to best Irish pOplin, and it is quite
tlmeit was restored TO a place among
valued resources.
PLAIN CLOTH TAILoR-MADE DRESSES
are rather put IN the shade by the gay
embroidered stamped matelasse and
tInseled cloths, but there are always
some ladies who prefer them, and pay
little attention to current fashion unless
1t falls in with their ideas. These ladies
order their navy blue, brown, mulberry.
or dark green suits just as they do a new
black silk walking suit when the old one
has given out, as an indispensable feature
of her wardrobe. But it is not so COM
mon now as formerly to order basque
and separate walking jacket. The basque
takes the jacket form, and with or with
out vest is complete for the street. I'M
less the weather demands additional
clothing tor warmth, and then a coat or
garment longer than a jacket is added
This reduces the number of pieces in
tallOr-made suits, and fulfills the present
condition of length in a street garment
Suits for young ladies form cOmbina-
tiOns of plain with small figured
or tufted cloths, OF the plain cloths
are trimmed with tinseled braids,
narrow clusters and wide alternating.
The most fashionable cloth skirts are
made, as / have previously stated, in al
ternate knife clustered and box pleats,
with short drapery in front caught up on
one side and passed through a ring or
fastened (apparently) with a bronze dag
ger in miniature. The skirt may be
straight pleated or draped at the back as
preferred. When drapery is employed it
has the aspect of being attached both
back OF the bodice or basque, and is in
fact carried up nearly to the line of the
waist. The drapery of trained skirts, on
the contrary, is pleated into the edge of
the pointed bodice, giving a mayOnaze
effect which is very becoming to graceful
figures, and greatly pOpularized since It's
Introduction, or rather revival, season
or two ago.
AUTUMN BONNETS
are stupendOUs. They are like recent
light 'Operas," all the ideas Of the past
several seasons massed into the millinery
achievements of one. They are diversified
yet bear a family resemblance one to the
Other-that is to say the crowns are high
and the trimming is always massed on the
top and in front. The capOte still exists,
but it is made with a square upright
crown with two points almost as sharp as
the tasseled points of an Oxford cap, and
the tull lace or pulled velvet front is filed
in and mounted with Yeined velvet leaves,
fruit, flowers, burrs, or thistles, and bows,
rings, or birds enough for a collection
rather han the top of modest bonnet.
The small poiHt ted poke is perhaps the
most striking of the autumn styles and is
the most purely Partisan. The crown =
full, folded over so as to form sort of
high Irregular puff and fastened diagonal
ly with a long beveled or fOur-sided pin
with nail head. This crown is formed of
Ottoman satin or velvet with brOcaded or
embroidered figures. If of satin 1t is COW
brim with gold embroidered lace.
Over the brim, which rises to
APPOINT, wave cocks feathers shaded
in the predominant colors, or wings, and
in some cases a fOX's head mounted in
silver. The strings are Of velvet, long, not
wide, and are knOtted, not bowed, on one
side. Very long ends of velvet, simply
knOtted, are sometimes attached to the |
back.
Cloth crowns appear embroidered by |
hand in jardiniere cOlors or Ornamented !
with crescents or small figures id stamped |
leather outlined with cclored silk or gold
or silver thread. Latticed crowns OF
leather, studded with small gold beads,
are made over ribbed satin, with satin
brims covered with gold embroidered lace.
The novelties are not cheap, $25 being
asked at a popular" house for a bonnet,
with cloth crown hand-embroidered in
small detached figures, and with nothing
expensive in the way of deco
ration.
The hats have high crowns and quanti-
ties of feathers in the shape of wings.
The speckled merle feathers are used;
gray and the sober brown birds are in
great request. The cOlors in felt are dark
or neutral, the smoke shades being the
most in demand. The ''coachman's' hat
is in demand, and divides the hOnOrs with
the ''West Point" military-loOking hat,
which is high crowned also, but retreats
from the back and advances at the front,
where it is massed high with plumage
by an aigrette. The cOachman's
hat has a broad gilt ribbon round the
crown, a tuft of feathers and rOsette of
velvet fastened with a slender gold whip,
the cord of which is knotted to the handle.
The beige tints in felt have taken the place
of cream white and strawberry red, and are
united with brown and. gold,
dark green and deep wine colOred red.
A soft beige tint is also one of the love-
liest of the evening shades, as well as one
Of the most distinguished, and toned up
or toned down with skill by a dressmaker
who is an artist, possesses far more char
acter than the richest white toilet, which
is, after all, expressive OF the beginning
and the end, not the active, eager, middle
life, even of women. An anxious face,
and there are are many of them, does not
look we'll out of white satin gown.
THE COMING CLOAK.
ClOaks do not show so much extrava-
gance or diversity in color this season as
last. Cloak makers have been taught
by having many left on their hands
aud this year restrict them to black ana
dark colOrs Except in the case of opera
wraps }, with Innings to match the outside.
A contrast in the lining affects the gene
raj tone of the costume and makes the
cloak less assailable. Economical women
object to it on utilitarian grounds, rich
and cultivated women because it opposes
the quiet influence which is now con-
sidered of the first Importance in street
dress.
The new cloaks are both short and long,
and there is a decided novelty in the way
of a coat that is intended to form part of
a winter costume, and with which the
dress must harmonic in color. These are
now of the half length garments in the
new styles-the HavelOcks, or garments
of that kinda good thing, for they are
heavy without being protective, and are
absolutely destitute of distinction, no
mater how rich the material. A visit to
a great manufacturing house, recently re-
vealed one fact, and that is how large a
proportion of the finest clOaks are made
in New York from designs which Origi-
nate here that are credited with having
been brought from Paris or Vienna. This
house does not import a single cloak. 1t
employs its own designer, who is, how
ever, a foreigner, and he supplies at least
a dozen new patterns for the season, each