Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1884-09-19
nit nfHnr,nr.I.

We were more than charmed with our first
journey in Portugal. For miles and miles the
country looked like one immense orchard, and
when the fruit trees ceased, We passed
through great forests Of corl-trccs, which in
their turn gave place to vineyards and fields
Of grain. In many places we saw vines
trained on fruit trees, under which grain was
springiug up, the ground thus yielding
triple harvest. If other parts Of Portugal
are like the north, it well deserves the title Of
the garden Of Europe.
Oporto is a busy, bright. looking city, uccu-
pyiug billy situation on the banks of Douro.
One hill in the very centre of the town is
crowned by the cathedral and bishops palace,
another by the church of Los Clcrigos with
its imposing campanilc, and yet another by
the public garden and crystal palace. Many
of the streets and broad and handsome, but
most Of them are very steep
In OportO all carts and wagons are drawn
by oxen. The draught oxen in use are very
large, and have truly magnificent horns.
They draw in couples and wear heavy yukcs
Of beautifully wood, trimmed usually
with scarlet fringe. They look extremely
docilc and patient, and deserving of more
gentle treatment than they generally receive.
II is quite usual to see pair of horns meas
uring from six to eight feet from tip to tip,
and it is no easy matter to pass yoke of OK
en- with such horns, should one chance to
meet them in narrow street. In such cases
we were sometimes compelled TO make for a
shop or open doorway, and take refuge until
the wagon had passed. The oldest and most
picturesque part Of the town is in the neigh
borhood of the cathedral. There the streets
are particularly steep and narrow, and the
queer little low-rootcd shops, with unglazcd
windows are quite oricntal-lookinG
The cathedral is ancient, but has been much
and badly modcrlcd. In one of the tran
sept chapcls, which formed part of an older
church than the present one, there is a par.
ticulnrly handsome rptablc of massive silver
which by some lucky chance escaped the pill
laying hands of the French The centre part
of it, shrine in the form Of temple, is
Grccian in design, and is of much finer work
manship than the more llorid side pieces,
which are of comparatively recent date, The
cloistcrs in connection with the cathedral are
small, but very perfect. The nauow-pontcd
arches are supported by slender double pillars
and the walls are lined with od-fashioncd-
looking blue tiles representing Scripturul sub
iucs. Glazed tiles are much used in Opouo
for the fronts of houses, with "A very pleasing
effect The part-coored tiles arc not nearly
so trying TO the eyes as the dazzling granite
or whitewash which they replace, and ut the
same time they serve to keep the houses cool
cr in summer and dricr in winter than they
would otherwise be. One of the most re-
markablc streets is the Rua das Flores,
whole side of which is occupied by jewellers
shops Gold and silver iagrce is quite a
speciality in this district 1t is wrought by
the peasants in their country homes during
the long winter evenings. The usual forms
are long massive chains, enormous heart
shaped pendants, very long, heavy earrings,
crosses and beads. The gold used is Of the
finest, the English aloycd gold being entirely
| dcspiscd by the Portuguese. Wcll-to-do
! peasants invest all their savings in jewclry of
this sort, considering it safer than banking;
consequently it is no uncommon thing to see
! a woman in ordinary country dress literally
| loaded with gold ornaments. They are not,
however, worn ostcntatiously, for generally
they are almost entirely hidden by shawl or
| kcrchief, -Lidrper'S lVcckiy