Smyrna times., 1884-05-14
Letter from Miss Ella F. Swinuey,
M. D.
ICoNTINUED.l

CONTINUED.
Monday morning, Decemb Der 3rd. we
stopped for three hours on our way
from Yokohama to Shanghai in front
| OF ShimOnoseki, native town. AS
this name has been lately so frequently
upon Congressmen's lips and heralded
IN the Washington papers, we were
greatly interested in the place.
Our Consul from his residence in this
Empire, and his knowledge and official
relations in connection with this town.
was pleased to inform the American
passengers of its history.
A few years after Japan had entered
into treaties with foreign nations. this
town and surrounding country was
governed by a petty Prince whom the
| authorities at Toxic could scarcely
control. At one time he fred upon an
American ship of commerce and at
another time upon an English mer-
chantman passing through this high
way of the seas. These two nations.
with the French, then united and
formed naval expedition, which on
reaching ShimonOseki DESTROYED the
forts and burned the town, driving off
all the inhabitants. they then unitedlv
demanded 100000 from the Japanese
Government, to cover the cost of the
expedition, this amount they were
compelled to pay. Afterwards the
United States Congress in considera-
ton of the facts of the case, that Japan
was earnestly endeavoring at the time
to keep the treaty, but not having the
power, could not completely control
this distant Prince, decided that it was
unjust to demand such price. Con-
sequently the last four Presidents have
recommended in their messages that
the United States Share be refunded.
yet nothing was done until last Winter
when the President signed the bill, SO
that this Fall all this money, principal
and interest. was returned, excepting
the small amount paid the soldiers and
sailors. The other two nations do not
acknowledge the explanation Of the
Japanese, nor own their error by re-
funding their portion; consequently
the United States Government. on
account of its magnanimity in this
affair, is held in high esteem through
out this Empire. Continuing our
journey westward, we entered that
part of the ocean which is called the
Yellow Sea, and stopped at Magasaki
our last point in Japan. Previously to
1859 this was the only port open to
foreigners. The harbOr, which is said
to be one of the most beautiful in the
world, is about six miles in width. To
y person inside it appears completely
land-lOcked, and it is surrounded by
hills about 800 feet in height.
The town is perhaps a mile in length
and three-qualters of Il mile in width.
and contains about 10000 inhabitants.
On the hill above the town are several
temples dedicated TO "Sinto," or the
worship of the sun goddess, which is
the old national religion of Japan.
The exports are mainly tea, tobacco,
ginseng vegetable wax J, and copper.
These exports teD years ago amounted
to nearly S2,000,000 yearly.
The climate here is variable and the
old saying that "it always rains at
Magasaki is frequently heard.
Here a number of passengers
American residents in this place re-
turning now from a visit to Yokohama
/ pleased US greatly with the ease and
grace with which they returned over
and over again the low bows of the
Japanese in parting with them. The
hexibility of the spinal column was
wonderful to behold, nor could we
think for a moment that any of our
own nationality would ever be able to
make any but awkward limitations in
their first efforts in such performances
Here also we parted with most of our
company from the Toxic. but few OF
our number continuing TO Shanghai.
We remained in this port nearly all
day, and away from the sheltered In
land Sea, we here felt the cold blasts
of Winter again, having snow most OF
the day, mingled with hail and sleet
In passing out of this harbor at five
O'Clock Tuesday afternoon, December
4th, the narrow exit was still more
contracted by a small precipitous
island, called Pappenberg, where three
centuries ago the Jesuit missionaries
and their converts were taken and
hurled headlOng into the sea. We saw
the waves dash and foam about its
base, where so many, through loyalty
to their faith, met such u tragic end.
The following day the winds and
the waves still strOve in their violent
contentious, while the yellow waters
all about us as boundless as the ocean
and the black sky above, was apicture
grand if not beautiful. AS the storm
magnifed itself each hour, the sea sick
ones Increased, and the shocks of the
heavy sea striking the steamer on
her side, would cause her to stagger q
moment while trembling from end To
end. At one of these times, when the
roar like artillery had ceased. we heard
the shouts of those below, but did not
know till the following day that the
steamer was then injured and the sea
! pouring in, though we heard the bail
ing throughout that long night.
In the meantime everything was
swaying within, there was nothing but
connection without, with wave after
wave rolling over the skylight above
the saloon, and night coming down on
the scene. Yet His kind hand who is
above all brought us safely out Of every
peril, and the next day before evening
we passed the light ships, and knew
we had entered the fangtsekiang
! though land was not seen for some
time, the river being over one hundred
miles wide at its mouth. At half past
eight o'clock Thursday evening the
heavy thud of the anchor, as it went
down, announced the fact that we haC
reached the mouth Of the Wong Poo
river.
The next morning which was clear
and beautiful, as we lay calmy q
: anchor, awaiting high tide to cross th'
/ bar, heavy cannOnading attracted oui
attention, when we dicovered q Chimes,
naval ship going out on its way t,
: Canton loaded with soldiers, and hav
, ing on board a Chinese official of higl
Y rank, for whom the salute was given
/, Afterwards the firing at the fort wa
G continued, as they practiced, cndeavoS
ing to strike the bouys about us, whil
: striving to avoid tbs shipping. Thes
q efforts were exciting to sec, as from
4 their distance of hb0nt q mile. the oun