St. Landry democrat. (Opelousas, La.) 1878-1894, 1884-03-08
The Baths Of Cauquedes.

Here [ am among the Andes. could
not leave Santiago without visiting the
celebrated Baths of Cauquedes, the first
syllable of which word must be pro-
nouneed like our English word ''cow."
At eight o'clock on a fine morning
how often journeys begin on fine morn
ings!-I left by the railway, and at
11:15 we stopped to breakfast, and very
badly, at Rancdgua. The Chilians
! seemed to me to think more about
gourds and tunas than about good meat.
In our ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS journey
we passed through much cultivation by
irrigation, conducted from the many
mountain streams. There was much
cattle. and many horses were to
be seen scattered over the coun-
try, and some of these last were Curl
ously occupied in wading up the shall
low courses of the water in search of
some plant growing at the bottom.
which they spied through the crystal
liquid from time to time and then
ducked their heads to pick up great
mouthfuls of it. Dry mud walls and
houses appear on all sides, and the dust
was abundant indeed. The corn har-
vest was going on, and the wheat was
being thrashed out on the thrashing-
floor with horses. Round stones
abounded everywhere, showing how
the districts have been coursed by huge
waters. The people looked rude and
free; they wore ponchos, and goiter was
visible on many throats, the result Gas in
SWitzerland) Of drinking snow-water.
When we came to the station for eau
quedes, I took the coehe' for the baths
Ia distance of seven leagues, which oc-
cupied us some two hours and half,
with one change of horses. The teams
consisted of four, and these were caught
out grazing on the spot, and harnessed
before our eyes. They were excellent
animals, though rough, and were har-
messed abreast. Our pace was excel
lent, but there was much delay before
starting, and the same at the change
The dust was frightful, as it is all over
such parts of Chill as I have visited;
the nuisance of it may be compared
with that OF the vile coal smoke on their
railways; this last being perfect poison
in their magnificent air. At last we
came to the baths, finely situated on
the Cachapoal River, with dry mount
aims and the cactus all round, The
spot is extremely rocky and pictur-
esque, and from the garden of the estab-
1ishment the views are grand; ones i'm
pressions being enhanced by the sense
that it is the huge range of the Andes
and no mere holiday riYer-roeks that are
before you. The long backbone of the
stream, as it winds its long way
down from the Grand Cordillera,
is particularly imposing. The tor
rent rushes by the baths
through deep mountain gorge; all is
on grand scale. The establishment is
built in two principal quadrangles, with
pleasant shady walks round. There
are three springs cold, tepid and hot;
and there are two properties in the
water-sulphurous and chalybeate.
The baths are well frequented and well
conducted. The grand range is not
visible from the baths themselves, but
by mounting rugged rock, after cross
ing q sufficiently impressive and dane
ing suspension bridge. the glorious as
piring peaks appear on the horizon.
The colors on them of the sunsets are
surprising; and as you look upon the
west side Of the range these shine full
and uninterrupted. Even these districts
are not free from shocks of earthquakes.
I was startled at night by the shaking
Of my bed. and on waking and in
stinctively calling out: "Quien esq" re-
ceived no answer. Then the city clock
tolled two; and knew that / had felt
an earthquake; and the next days
paper gave the following short notice
in Spanish, which I translate: ''Last
night, shortly before two, mild shock |
Of earthquake was felt No harm to
any one this time and here / am again
at Santiago. Cor. London Graphic.