Barbour County index. [volume] (Medicine Lodge, Kan.) 1880-current, 1884-02-08
HOt-Beds.

We are asked for directions for max
ing hot bed. The frame for the hot
bed is commonly made movable, in sucf
length as that three sashes, say three
by six feet, will cover. making, wher
completed, a structure like a box. nine
feet long and six feet wide. At tn.
lower part the plank should be about
eighteen inches high and at the higher
part about twenty-four inches high, liz
order that when the sashes are on they
will be ut the proper angle to turn the
rain and also to receive the suns rays
1t will he necessary to have the saShes
fit as tight as they can be worked. We
are, of course, speaking of hot-beds fol-
gardening on small scale. In om
large market gardens, greater economy
in both structure and the sources OF
heat lis necessary. The frame con.
structed. the heating material is to be sup
piled. This is horse manure, fresh from
the stables. and when it is convenient
it is desirable TO add about half its bulk
of forest leaves. If leaves are used
they should be well mixed, and trodden
down SO firmly that the mass will gen.
crate fermentation in the coolest wealth.
er. After a considerable degree of fer.
mentation has occurred, which will be
in few days, and which escaping
steam will indicate. turn it over, shak.
ing it out well, and then, make a hear
of it again. In two or three DAYS a
second fermentation will take place,
and it may then be put into the frame.
As it is put in it should be well pressed
down, and an excavation made in the
ground so that two feet to two feet and
half of manure can be put in and
have the surface of it about twelve
inches from the top of the lower part
of the frame. If clear stable manure
Is used, it will not be necessary or de-
sirable to put in so much. A foot and
half to two feet VIII be plenty. The
manure in, put on the frames, and keep
them close until the heat rises. At
first the heat is violent and great deal
Of steam escapes. If the soil is put on
and seeds are planted at this time, they
viii probably perish, and the most i'm
portant lesson for the beginner to
learn is TO wait. DO not be in a hurry.
Do not put the soil on until thermom-
eter in the frame shows a Temperature
of not more than ninety degrees. The
soil may then be placed on the heating
material. 1t should be good soil and
thoroughly pulverized, and should be
put on to the depth of six or eight
inches, which would leave the surface
of the bed about four inches below the
lowest part of the frame.
Hot-beds are used for various pur
poses, and the time for using them
which our correspondent inquiries about
depends upon the purposes for which
they are used. Sometimes they are used
for forcing lettuce, and in that case
the plants. from cold frames, are set in
January in the market gardens about
New York City. If it is desired for the
the time to use IL. If for cabbage.
caIllitiOwer or lettucs plants, the first Of
March, or even earlier. If for sweet
potatoes, about the middle of April.
The great secret of successfully
managing a hot-bed is in covering up
at night and giving air in the day. In
our Western climate, which is very apt
to be capricious, many make the mis-
take of supposing that warm day in
spring signifies that warm weather has
como to stay. Consequently they neg
lect TO cover the hot-bed ut night, and
the first thing they know they wake ND
some morning and find that winter is
lingering in the lap of spring. Safety
will lie found only in covering ND the
tenderest plants, such as tomatoes and
sweet potatoes, until the middle of Nav
anyhow, and later in this latitude. and
the more hardy plants, such as cabbage,
until thefirst of May. and later in the
latitude of Chicago, unless il is plainly
evident that the season is to be an early
one Airing in the day time, too, is as
important as covering at night. The
thermometer should be closely watched.
Whenever that indicates a temperature
Of seventy-five degrees let in the air. II
The weather is mild and the sun is shin
ing more air may be admitted than il
there is a cold wind, when not much air
should be admitted.
1t will be necessary to cover the sash
IS for protection against frost. Straw
mating is the best for this purpose.
though it may be done with light nine
kutters. Make frame the size that
may be desirable Stretch across il
tarred strings, ten inches apart Against
these strings lay straw as long and
straight as may be at hand, and then
stretch other strings parallel with those
first put on. tying the two strings to-
gether at occasional intervals. They
should be made large enough to overlap
the frame few inches on either side.
thus more securely guarding against the
access OF frost to the frames Western
Rsr-uI