Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-06-21
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wish that my readers might enjoy, what /
have often enjoyed, the glorious view, which at
the time OF the inundation is peculiarly fascina-
ting, from the summit Of the mountains which
bound the valley Of the Nile on the eastern side
Let me try to lead you there, in fancy at least
1t is An excursion which amply repays any one
who undertakes 1t.
At other times of the year the valley of the
Nile, seen from this height, resembles a green
and blooming garden. Waving corn fields,
deeply green clover meadows. high-grown In
dian corn aud beans. sugar cane and cotton
plantations. cover every inch Of cultivated
ground, interpreted with groups of paIm-t trees
and groves OF acacias, In the midst of which
the villages nestle. Far away to westward the
hills OF the Libyan desert frame the picture, and
the pyramids of Ghizeh stand out in bold profile
against the sky. If so be that the sun is setting
behind them at the time that your eye is resting
on this picture, you will enjoy q symphony of
color such as once seen is never forgotten. The
blue-Rreen tnts OF the valley meet and blend
with the warm browns and Ochres of the desert
and through almost purple tlnts these again are
united with and attuned to the deep blue of the
sky.
The grand simplicity of subject, combined with
the-I might say classc-harmOny of lines and
the marvellous blending of colors which go to
make up the Egyptian landscape. can not but
fascinate every artist, and all who have once
seen and studied 1t are drawn irresistibly again
and again to the deeper study Of these problems
of art. At the moment that have selected for
introducing this picture to my readers the waters
OF the Nile. which at other times hemmed in by
the high shores, only resemble silver ribbon
winding in and out among the green fields. and
glancng here and there as the sunlight falls
upon it-these waters cover all, and the vast
plain resembles an extensive lake The villages,
built on more elevated ground, and protected by
high dikes peep out Of the vast expanse Of
water like islands In the sea- The palms. whose
bluish-green feathery crowns are already bur-
dened with heavy tassels Of dates. red or brown
or yellow, are more than halfway up their grace
full stems in water. Numberless boats and small
craft with their picturesque lateen-sails, look
ing like sea-gulls on the wing, skim the water,
speeding before the north wind, which at this
season blows steadily and strongly. and sends
them southwark heavily laden with produce of
the north, whence they return with cargoes of
ivory, ostrich feathers. gum-arabc, and, alas!
only too often. with slaves.
This is the time at which, In Cairo most Gu
rious and interesting fete is celebrated, one
ly. the so-caled ''breaking through Of the Nile"
and takes place when the Nile has reached
certain height
A canal traverses Cairo from east to west.
This canal Is closed. when the inundation begins
at the junction with the Nile, by a solid and
well-made dixie and remains thus closed until
the water-mark shall have reached a desired
point. The rupture Of this dixie, which admits
the water into the city, is accompanied by festiv-
itives In which all classes Of the population share.
the evening, Of the day preceding the feast,
numbers Of dahabeeyahs-a kind of vessel
found only on the Nile, and best described az
q floating dwelling combining great comfort
with ship-like compactpess and regard for
space-are seen on the Nile approaching the
spot where the canal and river meet, and
there drop their anchors, while others continue
tacking about. Some OF these dahabeeyahs
are the private property Of residents Of Cairo,
who. with their families, spend this night on
board; others are chartered for the occasion
by party who disperse, as best suits their
taste, for the night-some retiring to the d.
vans In the airy saloons, others preferring the
deck, with it's bright spectacle Of illumination
on all sides. for in the rigging of all these
boats the colored lamps are twinkling and re-
1ecting their light in the water.
One large boat among the many catches the
eye In particular; 1t is that called "Akabeh' by
the Arabs-painted in all the colors of the rain
bow, Its masts and rigging decked with count
less lamps and flags. This boat leaves the har-
Dor Of BoOlak, near Cairo, in the afternoon land
by paying small sum one can obtain passage),
and sails on till treaches the isle of RhOdda,
quite near to which Is the spot at which the fes-
tivities OF that night are to take place. Here it
is made fast by heavy cables, and prepares to re-
main till the morrow.
On the deck Is an awning under which the
passengers can while away. with friendly ciga-
rette and cooling sherbet the intervening hours
In the imagination of the Egyptians of to-day
this boat represents the .spendid vessel on
which, In ancient times the :.Bride of the Nile
birth, was brought annually as sacrifice to the
god, and who, clothed in bridal array. was
doomed to watery grave.
All Orientals. and the Egyptian is no excep-
ton to the rule, like to have their merry-makings
at night. And they are right. The intense heat
OF the day is over; the sun. with its rays and It's
glare, no longer wearies eyes and nerves; the
glorious starlit sky-such a sky as only the far
East can show-spreads its canopy over all;
soft. balmy breeze comes gently through the
valley and blows upstream, bringing the cool
but never cold atmosphere of the Mediterranean,
whose moisture and briny odors have been mod
flied by the long journey it had to make before
reaching the inland capital. This is the time,
above all Others. at which the river and it's
shores become the scene Of animated life. At
regular intervals the cannon boom, for without
smell of powder. much shouting and screaming,
and oft-repeated fireworks, the proper holiday
mood Is wanting. LegioEs of small boats, like
midges glancing over the Yates move about in
all directions as connecting links between the
large, firmly anchored vessels.
From some one point the sound of the tiara
booka" Is heard. and to its monotonous rhyth-
mic accompaniment female singers MARBLE their
slow and melancholy ditties, ending generally
In chrOmatic scale. From another side the
sound Of castanets meets our ears-a sure sign
that here the aforementioned and far-tamed.
though certainly not admirable, dancing-girls
are in full performance. Along the shore hun
dreds Of tents are erected. lighted, according to
their rank and degree in the social SCALE either
by most primitive little Oi-lamps, or, progress
ing upward, most luxurious cOlored lanterns.
In these booths refreshments of all kinds but
mostly coffee and sherbet are to be had; and
here one finds the sedate and well-tO-dO pater-
familias and the Youthful though independent
donkey driver side by side, smoking The en-
tertainment consists in listening to ballad sing
ers comic actors reciters Of Koran verses and
lect an ample public around them, and one which
is very simple in tastes and most grateful and
apprecatlve for whatever is offered it. Add to
all this constant. endless screaming and shout
ing, maze of human forms ever rolling and
unrOlling itself, and my readers will be able to
form some idea OF what are the elements that
go to compose every Arab festvty, and so also
this "feast of the Nile"
Shortly after midnight the Arabs begin their
work at the dixie. To the accompaniment of
monOtOnous strain they dig away valiantly. SO
that at daybreak only thin wall of earth re-
mains as partition between them and the mighty
flood beyond. At rise of sun the khedive (yice-
roy, surrounded by the erandees of his realm,
his stand in tent prepared for him, and which
commands the best possible view of all that
goes on. secretary takes place at his side,
and Is prepared to take notes of this most i'm
portant act. testifying that the Nile has reached
the necessary height for bursting the dixie, and
for the land tax on all the feah to begin it's
work. This document is sent to COnsrantinOple
the moment the festivities are at an end.