Morning journal and courier., 1884-10-04

 tisement as playful ruse with which to attract crowd.
 The following morning found me aboard little steamer in the Danube canal at half-past six o'clock bound for Linz. The regular Danube steamers cannot enter this canal, so the company provides small steamer to ply from the landing to the larger steamer in the river proper In one hour we were put on board the steam CT ECrown Prince Rudolph good respect able side-wheel steamer, bound up the Dan- ube Up the Danube is very different thing from down the Danube. So swift is the current that it takes the same boat over twice as long to ascend as it does to descend, and even when the steamer stops at land ing en route she often has to keep her wheels paddling the water vigorously. My taste of Danube scenery between Turn Severin and Orsova, along the Roumanian- Hungarian frontier, Ca link seldom seen by trave.ers, but one of the prettiest in the whole course of the river) had made me hungry for more. Not withstanding that the trip would consume over seventeen hours, I therefore chose it. For few hours there was not much to re- ward my pains. The Danube seems to be muddy from Passan clear to Ga1atz-unutter- ably muddy most of the way. The poet who sings of the blue Danube is Q prevaricating skulker He dare not show his face in Europe The lack of maritime industry is also little discouraging to the tourist at first, there being only two or three steamers met in the course of days ride. The river, though preceptibly narrower than when had left it at Buda Pest, was still dotted with low flat islands, covered with a rank growth of shrubbery. We paused at several land ings and passed under one large railroad bridge by means of lowering the funnel, ,arIiv- ing at the considerable town of Stein with Kfems adioining) a little after noon. The scenery now began to improve, and during ! T ,1- The hills crowded the river more closely and grew more precipitous, until we found our selves in the midst of a narrow gorge; now chisseled out of the rock in natures most savage mood, and now brilliantly green with soft thick grass or dense young trees. On sthe right we passed Durnstein, where Richard Occur de Lion was kept a prisoner for fifteen months in 119293 by Duke Leopold VT, and where the faithful Blondel is reputed to have discovered his lost master. It was pictur- esque-looking place, with old fertilization walls running up the steep rocky hill. A church stood on rock close by the waters edge, and as our steamer glided along some fifteen feet away, the deep toned abbey bell pealed so1emnly forth. The sound was start lingly distinct-as if directly over our heads.
 We now passed frequent ruins, castles, monasteries, and sleepy villages, nestllng at the very edge of the water. The abbeys were enormous i'll size and usually palatial in appointments, being frequently at the summit of lofty picturesque hills. l could but wonder what these great institutions are for It is said that they are supplied with valuable collections of minerals and antlqul- ties historical manuscripts, grand pipe or pans, and libraries of from 30, 900 to 1OO, ,00O volumes But that does not answer the question. Of what utility are these large establishments? The might of Popery in this
 I,, 3Ia 7oiti TJrIfh life size statues of Christ clinging thereto, that line the roads, mark the bridges and cover the hilltops Even the royal palace in Vienna contains it's pictures of the Pope.
 The rapid current of the river was utilized frequently on either side by means of huge wheels extended from the shore to moored foater near the shore. Bands passed around the axle, ard were then made to operate the machinery in adjacent mills.
 The boat stopped every three or four miles to let of or take on passengers. At each such station about two beer kegs for every inhabitant in the town were let off or taken on. There's no denying it, the people do lager occasionally Even on board the steamer the restaurant system prevailed. As in the case of the hotels, found that the terms did not include board and bed! But as the prices were extremely low, Tn view or railway competition,I had not tEe heart to lJ.
 and 1odoinp extrar accommodations in Europe.
 About dusk I was startled by the success sive reports of two cannon, one on the port side of the ship and the other to starboard. On investigation, found that we were near ing the ttGreiner Schwall," (surging waters) and this was the customary signal for the right of way up stream. I noticed signal tower on the north bank, and presume the navigation is conducted by telegraph here For distance of nearly thousand feet the channel was only thirty to fifty feet wide, while the waters rushed &nd surged tumul- tuously. The ascent of these rapids was most hazardous until 1853, when the rocks were blasted away Great 5olders still pro iect in menacing manner from the banks, and not few former strongholds of robbers are pointed out among the caves and ruins. The navigation of such swift crooked river is to my mind perilous enough after dark without any rocks added to eompieate mat