The Milan exchange. (Milan, Gibson County, Tenn.) 1874-1978, 1884-02-09

we are asked Tor directions for maxi
ing q hot bed. The frame for the hot
ped is commonly made movable. in such
length as that three sashes. say three
by six feet, viii cover, making, when
completed, structure like box. nine
feet long and six feet wide. At the
lower part the plank should be about
eighteen inches high and at the higher
part about twenty-four inches high, in
order that when the sashes are on they
VIII be at the proper angle TO turn the
ram and also TO receive the suns rays.
1t Will he necessary to have the sashes
MT as tight as they can be worked. We
are, OF course, speaking of hot-beds for
gardening on a small scale. In our
large market gardens, greater economy
IN both structure and the sources of
heat is necessary. The frame con-
structed.the heating material is to be sup
piled. This is horse manure, fresh from
the stables, and when it is convenient
1t is desirable to add about half its bulk
of forest leaves. If leaves are used
they should be well mixed, and trodden
down SO firmly that the mass will gem
crate fermentation in the coolest wealth
er. After considerable degree of fer
mentation has occurred, which will be
III a few days, and which escaping
steam will indicate, turn it over, shak-
ing it out well, and then, make q heap
OF 1t again. In two or three DAYS n
second fermentation will take place,
and 1t may then be put into the frame.
AS it is put in it should be we'll pressed
down, and an excavation made in the
ground so that two feet to two feet and
n half of manure can be put in and
have the surface of it about twelve
inches from the top of the lower part
of the frame. If clear stable manure
is used, it will not be necessary or do
sirable to put in SO much. A foot and
half to two feet will be plenty. The
manure in, put on the frames, and keep
them close until the heat rises. At
first the heat is violent and great deal
of steam escapes. Ii the soil is put on
and seeds are planted at this time, they
will probably perish, and the most i'm
portant lesson for the beginner to
learn is to wait. DO not be in hurry.
Do not put the soil on until thermom-
eter in the frame shows temperature
of not more than ninety degrees. The
soil may then be placed on the heating
material. 1t should be good soil and
thoroughly pulvcrized, and should be
put on to the depth of six or eight
inches. which would leave the surface
of the bed about four inches below the
lowest part of the frame.
Hot-beds are used for various. pur-
poses, and the time for using them
which our correspondent inquiries about
depends upon the purposes for which
they are used. Sometimes they are used
for forcing lettuce. and in that case
the plants, from cold frames, are set in
January in the market gardens about
New York City. If it is desired for the
tomato, about the middle of March is
the time to use it. If for cabbage.
cauliilower or lettuce plants, the first Of
March, or even earlier. If for sweet
potatoes, about the middle of April.
The great secret of successfully
managing II hot-bed is in covering up
ut night and giving air in the day. In
our Western climate, which is very apt
to be capricious. many make the mis-
take of supposing that q warm day in
spring signifies that warm weather has
come to stay Consequently they neg
lect to cover the hot-bed at night. and
the first thing they know they wake up
some morning and find that winter IS
lingering in the lap of spring. Safety
will be found only in covering up the
tenderest plants, such as tomatoes and
sweet potatoes, until the middle of May
anyhow, and later in this latitude, and
the more hardy plants, such as cabbage.
until the first of May. and later in the
latitude of Chicago, unless it is plainly
evident that the season is to be an early
one. Airing in the day time, too, is as
important as covering at night. The
thermometer should be closely watched.
Whenever that indicates temperature
of seventy-five degrees let in the air. Ii
the weather is mild and the sun is shin
ing more air may be admitted than if
there is a cold wind, when not much air
should be admitted.
1t will be necessary TO cover the SASH
es for protection against frost. Straw
mating is the best for this purpose,
though it may be done with light pine
shutters. Make a frame the size that
NAV be desirable. Stretch across it
tarred strings, ten inches apart. Against
these strings lay straw as long and
straight as may be at hand, and then
stretch other strings parallel with those
first put on, tying the two strings to-
gether at occasional intervals. They
Should be made large enough to overlap
the frame few inches on either side,
thus more securely guarding against the
access of frost to the frames. = Western
Rural.
oil