Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-12-28
A PUZZING QUESTION.

oNsf th NOHpAP SENSE
PUZZING QUESTION.
Sometimes, however, a problem like
this presents itself. A girl may be young
and handsome, but in a large style which
needs toning down, and cannot stand the
wave like expansion of tulle or the actual
increase in size created by the wearing of
an all-white toilet. Such question was
solved recently by the substitution Of pale
grey silk muslin, draped closely over soft
grey silk, and trimmed with fine white
Oriental lace. The flowers were a large
bouquet of delicate pink roses. Tulles
are usually made with low bOdices, and
with only the lightest puff or strap for
sleeves. Satin bOdices are also still en-
plOyed, with drapery Of tulle in the
form of Grecian fOlds-folds crossed to
one side-0r they are laid over and to
outline the bust and to form the curve
under the arm, the back folds joining in
straight line or descending in point.
Low bodices are less used by married
ladies and all ladies' of mature age than
last season. Perhaps because the season
of balls has hardly begun. 1t would, in
deed, be a hopeful sign if one could say
that 1t was permanent Improvement,
caused by the actual realization among
grown women OF the lack Of dignity,
sense and propriety in this exposure, par
ticularly in climate which at Other parts
of the "A hours is supposed to require
cloth and sealskin for comfort.
NEW FEATURES IN WINTER GARMENTS.
A very stylish little garment for young
ladies is a velvet visite. very short
upon the back, almost straight across,
but having little fullness pleated and
held in at the waist line by an interior
belt, and fur collarette, which is round
= bo oI~ hut Il 10 INT
in front, where it is fastened by a bronze,
oXydized silver. or carved wood clasp.
The lining is of thinly-quilted satin, and
the garment, which is in any dark shade
of velvet that harmOniZes with the cos
tune, sits very close and Jauntily to the
figure. A pretty costume is made, for
example, in light shade of wood brown,
braided in slender diagonal straps or bars
with narrow braid a shade darker than
the material, the beading tiny, round
knitted, silk buttons, which form a double
row, a second one upon intermediate
bands which are shorter than the princi-
pal ones. The visites worn with this
dress will be of dark brown velvet,
trimmed with natural beaver fur. The
bonnet will be Of the velvet, also, with
shaded feathers, and the muff of natural
beaver.
Long silk cloaks are fast disappearing.
possess them, but they are no longer
recommended, and are not seen among
the late impOrtatiOns. The latest style of
long cloak is of cloth-fne, smooth fin
ished, or rough, as preferred. The smooth
finished are lined with silk, and have
secondary silk plated fronts; also long,
narrow silk-lined hood and TeUerS of cloth.
The sleeves are a revival of the moderate
flowing sleeves of twenty-five years ago,
and are shortest uDOn the inupr ri of
the arm, where they are turned up with
silk. This is a most useful and lady-like
morning walking cloak, and may
be used for driving or travel
ing in mild climates. Very hand
some cloaks of roughened camels
hair have the loose sleeve and are very
warm, but they are light in weight and
finished with Russian collar and wide
bands down the front and around the
sleeves of natural lynx, a long, yellowish
white fur that is Immensely stylish in
effect for an exceptional purpose of this
kind.
Exclusive and very elegant dress
wraps for visiting, much used for cerezI
mOniOus calls and afternoon receptio1
are made of embossed velvet, hand ~
broidered in outline with chenillawhd
This work is done by expert work. Rnen to
order, and Arnold & COnstableAkV I've made
a speciality of such garment their pro-
auctions far surprising tn Re received
from Paris. There is ais another adj
vantage in these special made wraps,
that each part is indivi3 6alized-fri
buttons, ornaments, aVare made for it,
and if lady chooseSR pay the cost will
be seen upon nQHher. This special
workmanship is characteristic of the
finest houses, u is the secret of the
high prices demanded and obtained.
Fabrics are specially dyed, designs
specially made, and the workmanship
specially done down to the smallest de-
tail, and no inexperienced person could
Nssibly understand what it has
taken to produce the undefnable
effect until they try to match shade,
pat@rn, bit of trimming, and then they
discover that they are unmatchable. TO
show the pains taken, L will use an
actual occurrence. A lady wrote to a
well-known house for costume OF mouse
cOlOred velvet. Samples. We're sent of
greys and stone color and mousse moss
green), which she returned with the
declaration that these were not what she
wanted. She desired actual and veritable
mouse color. The firm sent abroad for it.
The color was not in existence. The
foreign dyers experimental and finally
succeeded in producing it. This year
one year after her applicatiOn-the cos
tune was obtained and the lady proudly
exhibits 1.-THE skill of two continents
having been required to produce that
innocent looking gown.
EMBROIDERED HANDKERCHIEFS.
Handkerchiefs are now genuine articles
de lure. 1t could never be dreamed they
were meant for use. The French take the
lead in the production of these pretty
toilet accessories, and the STYLES of the
season show a great variety of the most
exquisite embroidery design in jardiniere
colors and patterns. Few of the borders
have straight edge. Most of them are
daintily futed or plated, or festooned
or finished with button-hole stitch in
delicate points or scallops. Borders are
deep, sometimes composed of minute dots.
sometimes of lines on d colOred ground,
sometimes oflovely small sprays of flowers |
thrown upon the dotted lines. Others have |
lalf Wrpaths in the CORNERS which 70 fIInd |