Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-10-04
FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.
Oddities OF the OPensngs-The New
Bonnet and the Coming (ioak-Noy-
elites i'm Trimmings and Accessories.
From Our Own Correspondent.

FaShl019b!e women ought certainly to be
credited with courage if they dare to exhibit
the styles which have appeared at the .'Gpen-
ings, and now I'LL the shop windows in all the
great business th0roughfares. We have gotten
q little used - pigs and pugs, and now we have
frogs and other reptiles in close communion
with the dainticst fabrics. We have drum
major hats mounted with birds and aigrettes
until steeple seems modest By comparison.
Beside these we have more spangie and tinsel
than would set up q generation of ballet girls:
aud effects in combination that would be
startling in r2ree show. and would surprise
any one capable Of that very ancient aad almost
extinct sensation.
With al! this. however ii is n dscCurarin@
task to go through tie fashionable shops ami
see the waste OF material. the actual dParth Of
ideas, and the desperate attempts to supply
their place with a succession of mOntetank
tricks and shams which have neither dignity nor
permancncy. but simply puzzle women into
paving q high price for being Law figures and
wearin" the trappings in this commercial pro-
ceSsiOn of the ages. There is no serious attempt
to invest the dress of woman with any purpose
or meaning: to classify or characterize it accord
ing to its function. 1t is all. as yet. muddle.
notwithstanding the Efforts now and again to
adapt STYLES and materials to natural uses and
to restrict them so that their function shall be
understood and appreciated. The bOldness of
design. the gorgeous masses OF color. excites
FtfJ OF lES@UD III ana not We'll disciplined
mindS which they cannot resist. They must
have this wild ard odd and beautiful thing
which stimulates their fancy. bat which is Who'll
~ out OF place in their lives and surroundings
Thus the most extraordinary exhibitions are
made upon the street. because there is nowhere
else 10 display the acquisitiGn-and the eXhib-
itor is not in the least aware that the incongru-
ty renders her fitiable instead of an object of
admiration in the eyes of all intelligent people
In the forms of the present season. the
making up of materials. there Is not much to
complain of. About many of the designs there
is simplicity aad grace whic! is deiehttul.and
recalls the best eraS through which the clothing
OF women have passed. The linen lawns and
muSiins. the 1!nghamS and the cotton satincS
OF the past season brought back simpler styles
OF making as necessity of their washable
character. and they have been boon in this
respect, as we'll as from a sanitary point of View.
Clothes that can he washed are q necessity OF
tins climate during the summer months. EOtn
for men and women. and many of the former
regret the loss OF the linen and white duck
suits that came fresh from the launGresS every
week and made life enduTabie. if not ENJOYABLE
Tie pTetttst dresses that have been worn
during the past season have been the straight
skirted linens and lawns and muSlus with the
single ruiiie and the old-fashOned gathered
waist or yoke ana belt and little kerchief or
fSchu. They are not the styles for the drawing
room, but why not put some character even into
drawing room styles; some Individuality? Why
Y,
We're destruction TO go outside certain pre-
scribed lines and forms: Materials are abundant
anu diversified, IT least they seem TO be so until
you try to get something different from those
which form the current styles of the season: and
at any rate there is sufficient variety for every
woman TO more or less correctly express her
own taste. The difficulty is in the women them
selves. They do not know what they like. They
do not cultivate conscience in regard to their
Clothes. and do not refuse to accept what they
Consider of doubtful utility. taste or morality
VELVET FEIsE.
Three years and a half ago in Antwerp. I
found acOstume trimmed with broad band of
uncut velvet upon satin in a lace pattern. 1t
was the first time had seen this effect pro-
duced in fabric. and few weeks later. in a
conversation with VI. Worth. at a little watering
place in the Black Forest CWfNbach). described
IT; and though he criticized the 'lace effect
which was not lace-he said he had begun to
Use it and would show lie some examples
which he afterwards did. and which were duly
reported in these letters The velvet frise;
the novelty of the season. in rich fabrics. is the
uncut velvet figure upon satin without the lace
effect; that is to say in mixed ''al over pat
terms. AID with Il curl in the loop which aids its
expression Exquisite shaded effects are intro
duced into the large disc flower patterns into
tulips and begoaia leaves. but the small delicate
border Ike. and rectangular designs have
wholly disappeared and the patterns are those
OF rich velvet and satin brOcade. the admirable
sottness and delicacy in tnts and finish of the
slik looping upon richest satin grounds giving
To the fabric its distinction. novel feature i'm
uncut velvet consists of the ottoman grounds
In which real gold threads are introduced
These effects are employed in cut as we'll as I'M
cut velvet, the gold reappearing in twisted silk
In the outlining of the velvet design. Ottoman
yelyets with gold effects are only suitable for
the trains OF very rich evening dresses or FOR
evening reception ciOakS or dOlmans- They are
too pronounced for day wear unless as part of
astrictly carriage toilet.
Last season. and. indeed for two wears past.
the figured materials have been used in small
quantities for the front and panels of handsome
dresses. such as reception and dinner toilets:
but tnIS season they are employed with more
distinction fer princess trains the entire front
OF the dress being composed of lace over satin
with (On very drcsSy occasiOns) lace sleeves. 1t
should be remembered. however. that lace
sleeyes are never suitable for day wear and
when they are mentioned I'm connection with
dinner and Afternoon reception costumes it is
because they take place at late hour. by gas
light. and admit if they do not REQUIRE semi
evening dress.
very stylish looking dress is by no means an
annih;latiHG affair. since we have very striking
looking plain (nOt uncut) velvet brOcades for
si5J per yard-seyen yards only required fora
moderate train; satin surah Tor 81 per ward
five yards for the foundation of the front and
lace defective if not read anywhere from 10 cts
Per yard 10 any price the purchaser is willing to
pay: % yards of piece lace at % per yard will
make the full vest front. the short draped apron
and the sleeves: and five yards of founcing the
scant ruf1es over the soft pufs of satin surah
upon tine front. and a iabot for one side the
dTapery and clustered ribbons or other orna-
Wents forming the finish upon the other.
WOODEN COSTUMES.
All the new WOODEN materials are in combina-
tOns of figured with pain sturs. The coarse
bison cloths reappear, plain and embroidered.
IS last year. only seeming TOugher and with
more or rather cruder. color in the figures.
The soft oriental touch and feeling in the earlier
mportations, was in fact too artistic for popu-
lar appreciation which. even yet. in spite
o. our improved interiors" reoces in pro-
noUHced cO!oTs and favors. New designs.
which look like Z printer IL are executed in gray
leather. outlined with silver upon gray caupls
hair. aad there are Others in which the figures
are a IN XtUre Of chenille and unsettled thread
the thread sometimes appearing in the ground
also Coarse WCTsted goods are in great de-
naDd. e. Icci2Ily those Whicl are made in solid
cCicrs, with small raised. rectangular and
partly uncut figures. ROuGhened camelS hair
II also II great vogue in combination with vel
Vet and handsome yelveteen, the flvCrite COL
oTs being Lombard brown and dark smoked
gray. Al the fashionable cOlOrs are dark with
warm tints- Even the grays are smoked or
brought to tone that takes out all the chilli
ness and renders them suggestive il not sym-
palmetto The newest and most desirable shade
OF crown Is the lombard: il is a cross between
wine color and seal brown. with the warmth of
the Lombard plain In its depths IL is produced
Thfs E.-f hlIp ol..tHl u.