Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-05-03

Rational costumes which If not generally &C.
ceptable, serve to popuiariZe many good ideas.
An annual congress or dress exhibition In
which al sides would have an opportunity TO be
represented, the new things would be brought
before the public. and the whole subject
opened as one capable of individual modihca-
ton and Improvement and not subject to arb-
trary law would be useful and educational. and
sometime New York may be big enough and
original enough to have one of its own.
AN INFANT OUTFIT.
The other day a check was sent In to the
special order" department of O large Broad
way house which. it was explained, was the
payment for an outfit provided for an infant
which had been lett mOtherless and taken
charge of by a rich and dotng maternal grand
mother Only two years before the same house
had furnished the trOsseau tor the lovely young
bride Now the grief of the mother at the loss
OF the daughter she loved found consolation in
lavish Outpourng of rich gifts upon the head
OF the unconscious baby she had left. 1t was
! five months Old now. and to be short coated.
| This was the occasion for the outfit which in
cluded nineteen real lace dresses coat of
| white corded silk. hand embroidered and
| trimmed with real wide ducheshe lace white
cloth coat lined with silk and trimmed with Flor
entne lace, and a lace cap, marvel of soft
waves of lace and narrow satin ribbon and
marabOut feathers.
| In the department where this order was eX-
| ecuted hung silk quilt of very dainty work
manship-sOme of the pieces embroidered. some
hand painted. This quilt was made on and
sent from the free bed of hospital by a
woman once rich. who had spent thousands of
| dollars at this same store but now thankfully
awaited herself of the interest of one of its pro-
prietors in an institution to procure shell
| ter-a place to die in. and this means to die de-
| Gently. Her husband had snecuated and lost
| Her health had declined. She had no friends
willing to take in and provide for woman used
to luxury and dying of cancer and it was
through the interest of this plying merchant.
who had known her in her prosperous DAYS, that
she was so far relieved from her terrible posi-
tiOn as to be placed under shelter and kindly
| cared for
| IMPORTED COSTUMES.
| This is an ''Off'' year. and all the buyers from
Paris agree that it is very difficult to find attrac-
tive novelties. Fashions abroad when they
''catch on as our slang phrase puts it, always
last two years; so. although there NAV be an
effort to get up something striking to please
American buyers, there are no decided or revO-
lutiOnary changes. Even the Imagination of a
French milner must lie fallCw sometimes or it
| would not be capable of the great efforts which
are expected of 1t. There is no lack of distinc-
tOn however, in the costumes as exhibited by
young and enterpriSing firm Of importers and
dressmakers in west 35th street. Among the
most noticeable was lovely toilet of golden
| brown changeable silk. combined with hello
trope, also, shot. with gold and covered with
white lace. The lighter shade lace covered
formed plcated vest and narrow front the
lower sides of the front being fOunced in deli
cate Mechlin i'm a maiden-hair fern pattern and
the upper portions covered with paniers of the
golden brown silk. which also formed full train
and basque. dark shot silk. i'm ruby and
bronze shades, was covered with fine black
Llama lace. producing tine color effect of old
Venetian glass and a velvet dress of Ottoman.
combined with rich velvet figured grenadne,
was dazzling with showers of sparkling let
which covered the entire front A great deal
of lace is used. principally Mechln or rather an
| admirable imitation OF it, SOme'charming white
dresses were of Surah or Ottoman. covered in
front with rufiies of delicate lace in the maiden
hair patterns. which is great tav-
Orite. and combined with embroidered
crepe, the embroidery in small dots. satin
| finished. thick satin. wood brown, was made
with plated 'front.' surmounted by a small apron,
| bOrdered deeply with an exquisite net work and
fringe OF golden brown and bronze beads. The
basque Was covered, excepting the sleeves, with
similar net work. but below it. at the back. the full
skirt hung in rich folds quite plain. A singular
dress was of uncut velvet. in biscuit color. upon
mulberry satin. A fichu al China Grape crossed
the breast in quaint, suggestive fashion. and
extended to the skirt where it formed pointed
apron, which was embroidered and caught up
with clasp OF odd fiagree workmanship. There
were several pOplins, one grey. with narrow
feather band trimming, another common brown.
trimmed with broad fiat Persian embroidery A
ball dress, made for Easter, was of gauZe crepe
over white satin, the trimming fine wide white
silk embroidery flOunced and laid in plisses. The
front was covered with this embroidery caught
up on one side with lunches q white lilac. The
bodice was of full gauze, crossed over the
satin, and the drapery of the same was almost
concealed under wide SaSheS OF satin ribbon. A
calling dress was of full terra Gotta satin bro
caded. with grey, uncut velvet, and made as
coat costume. with lining of satin and border
of grey feather trimming A pearl Aey cloth
was trimmed with fiat silver braid. very wide
and more like fine canvass than braid.
THE NEWEST IN HATS AND BONNETs
1t is not known how much of the imported
millinery comes now from England and is not
unirequently sold as French. The English styles
are credited with being more practical, less fussy
and more specialized. The coaching hat is dis
tinctively English. 1t is large, of fire split
straw, with moderately high crown and straight
brim, which is faced with velvet olive or bronze
The exterior trimming Is mass Of soft lace and
feathers with enameled flies or bugs nesting in
their folds. the insects being real, of the most
brilliant tints. and riveted upon perforated gold
plates. to which the pin is attached which fas-
tens them and renders them eligible for dress
decoration. The walking hat is more round and
less boat-shaped than formerly. 1t is always in
cohred straw, dark or grey blue, brown or rock
grey. or ecru. The trimming is velvet in two
colors or shades, and a large wing birds or a
group of mushrooms.
The English bonnets are small and cottage
81 aped- favOrite trimming upon straw is
two narrow rOuleauy of velvet grey black or
ruby, wound about closely with twisted silver
cord. Bunches of white lilacs. buttercups and
daises mingled with real meadow grass or nat
ural white clover, are the principal feature in
the decoration; and to these is generally added
cGquilles of soft white lace and white lace
strings which are tied in a large bow under the
Chin Instead OF the small gold pins used last
year, long, slender darning needles are en-
pi0yed to fa-ten ribbons OIL lace MANY of the
brilliant little flies and butterflies having no pin
attachment. The French hats and bOnnets are
more striking and sensational. They have the
tall, narrow crowns. and often a lace cape
pleated OH and headed with band of satin rib
bon High up against this sugar loaf rests O
mass OF lace and flowers. or flowers and soft
gauZe crepe, the silver leafed geranium or mus
tard ard cress in quantities being found very
effective. Feathers are disappearing and it is
time. for they have been literally trailing In the
dnst.
The new gauZc crepe is 4 lovely material for
millinery purposes, and much used in white,
pale pink and blue for bOnnets for evening wear
For this purpose it is embroidered or brOcaded
in tiny dots or leaves and the crown is SHRED
so as to form upright cords. The brm is CLOSELY
pulled. and sometimes speckled with fine gold
or silver, but the dotted crepe effect is more re-
fined particularly as the MarabOut feathers,
when constitute the principal part Of the Orna-
mentatiOn, are powdered with gold, and fall in
quisftey light, soft and delicate-much prettier
ltsrlnf toll nj hal.