Dodge City times. [volume] (Dodge City, Kan.) 1876-1892, 1884-01-24
XONlen Dresses.

for street costumes this winter, and
when made Of fabrics that are not too
heavy. are also used for day dresses in
the house. Fine, soft stuffs that are Of
light weight. and fall into graceful
folds, arc made up without an outside
jacket or mantle. and are used as morn
ING dresses that the wearer can appear
in at breakfast. and afterward make
useful for the street by sdding one OF
the long wraps that almost conceal the
figure. such as cloth redingote, seal
dolman. or simple fur-lined circular.
The preference in such stuffS is for solid
colors of light brown and gray, such as
the new golden brown, ecru, CUR and
French gray. and contrasting color Is
often added to these to brighten them
up. The fabrics most used for these
dresses are camel S-hair, bison cloth
and fine cashmere. either the incest
qualities made in France. or the genuine
India cashmeres with very fine twills.
or that woven in the zig-Zag chuddah
lines. The vest, the Understanding col
lar. small turned-over cuffs. and slight
baylayeuse plating are the places fol-
Introducing contrasting color, and
the new fancy is to have this fabric OF
wool also. though velvet is still used fol
such accessories. A position basque. and
4 plated skirt with draperies that are
short and full on the hips and long be-
hind, are the directions generally given
for such dress. \ more novel AZ
rangement of the skirt. seen in imported
dresses of this description, has very
short bouflaEt drapery in the back. with
the lower part turned under to fall like
Il soft puff ON the three wide box plaits
that finish out the skirt to the foot.
The front OF such dress may have 3
braided panel down each side breadth.
and either four or six plaits down the
front breadth; or there may be two side
breadths wider than panels. usually
made of figured tapestry wool, or OF
cashmere like the dress. trimmed with
dropping loops or pointed ends OF
chenille. Long straight effects are
sought after in the drapery of such
dresses, and in the lines OF the front
and si!e breadths; they are also very
bouifant. but the tendency now is tc
use, pads of hair and springs across the
back of the foundation skirt for enlargg-
ING the size, instead of adding vOluml-
nous breadths of cloth. There are
very simple and stylish ways of making
loose. slender and bouffant drapery OF
single breadth of wide Stuffs, hut this
full width needs to be firmly fastened
along all the edges, leaving nothing tc
hang or get out of order. To do this.
the lower end is first sewed across tC
the foundation skirt; the material is
then turned up to the belt, and sewed
there in two very full box piaits. The
draping is next done by cluster OF
plaits folded closely together rather low
on each side, with their edges sewed
underneath quite out Of sight; higher
up in the middle of the breadth another
full thick bunch of folds is taken,
tackled permanently, and hidden in the
fullness of the double box plaits of the
top. Some modistes add two or three
rows of plated wigging inside the belt
to serve as hustle, while others prefer
the pillow-shaped pad filled with hair.
The draperies across the front and hips
of dresses with plated skirts or with
panels are necessarily very short, and
NAV be made straight across in o
wrinkled apron, or they may be paniers
that are Tapped across the front, or else
they NAV be combinations of two
single breadths used for the lack drap-
cry, extended along below the belt,
covering the hips, and meeting in front,
where they are Ornamented with
rosettes or Rot bows of velvet or satin
ribbon.
Ii figured tapestry is used for The
front breadth or for side panel, it also
forms vest The favorite shape fol
such vests is single piece in Breton
fashion that laps across the lining wher
il meets in front. and is buttoned on one
side: row of buttons and of button
holes is placed on the opposite side pre-
cisely like the one that is made use OF.
A standing collar Of the material OF the
vest is ct least m inch and half high,
and there is Il rolling collar below this
of the material of the has que. As VIC
have said before. the cuirass, or Jersey
basque, which is straight around the
hips. has lost favor, and the position il
used instead: this is shaped like rid
ing-habit waist. but is ampler, with two
longer sloping points in front, and i:
very much broader across the plated
square that falls below the waist in the
back; the sides are very short. indeed.
scarcely extending beyond the waist
line. When vest is not inserted such
- position may be made dressy by q
standing collar of velvet. and a rolling
collar, also of velvet. that may be
heightened into revers. Or if braid Is
employed for trimming, five or six rows
OF braid are placed straight down the
front each side of the buttons; but these
rows ,of braid must not extend along
the s:les of the basque, as they are
mer. ~ meant to suggest and outline a
vest -Harper's Ba@ar.