Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-12-27


SHOT YELvETEENs are shown among the list
Of changeable dress fabrics.
EGYPTIAN FAyCEoN is he name bestowed
upon thencw opera hoods OF lace aud satin
CHRYsANTEENUAS. roses and carnations are
The most fashionable flowers for evening wear
THERE Is 4 revival Of taste for the delicate
sstnetc c0loIs. ard the new Jerseys are brought
out in these shades.
MUSHROOM Is 4 favorite color. and handsome
dresses and NANTES are TO be had in mushroom
plush Nuts are made to match every dress.
THE CORsAGEs Or siIauIe evening dresses in
tended for young girls wear are plainly gath
cred and bound ar the waist with belt and
long loops Of gay ribbon
SATIN MERyELLIGCx is still used extensively.
Many rich. quiet costumes are made of it
trimmed with plain velvet particularly in steel
grey and brown shades
THE SHADES Or BLUE--royal, electric gen.
tian. sapphire. nusSar brakes neck. lobela.
and Presbyterian oil be found among the
latest importatl0ns in fine hosiery.
VERY SPLENDID ARE some of the newest
nantes. short one with moderate ends in
front is made of black velvet trimmed with ap-
plique of Jet narrow at one end and at the
other war fringe depending. these are laid on
the shoulders, down the back and sides. An
ether similar shape in plush is elabOrateIv trim
med with Chenille fringe.
THERE ARE SCORES of fancy devices aad de-
signs in letter paper. Ftocks OF birds domestic
and wild. scorpions. beetles insects reptiles.
fish. heads Of sm2, cattle cats. tigers, canincs
ferrets. sly little squirrels. indeed almost every
animal in zoology in some shape or form seems
10 De thrOWn on TEe H8EGet in The company OF
fruits. flowers. cIeflbs and a host OF other
Creatures that belong to no mans land
LARGE SAsFTEs are worn in Paris. A good
example OF this is a black velvet skirt arranged
In plaits. long. wide black velvet sash, with
ends and loops az the back and snort tunic
of exquisite jet applique. This is also made with
bodice. but the upper portion is entirely
bead paSSementerie. 4 dinner gown is male
with black satin train and bTOcaled front the
design coiored sprays on satin ground, with a
short black tune
SEAIKIN SACQUcS this season are made less
ciumpy in shape by being fitted more closely
in the back aud sides than formerly. The
fronts remain loose and straight and have q
coat collar that may be turned up about the
throat. or else turned down in front to form lap
pels. Short nantes of Sealakins are fashionable
They are cut in viSite shape. short behind with
long taos in front and are trimmed with a
fringe of sealSkin balls.
SOME OF THE NEW WINTER PLAIpS. especially
among rich. expensive materials are exceed
ingly tasteful and attractive blending with PLAIN
fabrics with excellent effect Many of these new
plaided combinations are worn this season by
ladies who never before yentured to adopt
them. for the reason that startling effects seem
In most instances to have been avoided by the
manufacturers. and handsome solid grounds are
now exhibited simply crossed with hair lines of
white, amber, gray. blue or ruby.
PAEIS Hat is made of tan bronze felt in high
peaked shape. with full plated velvet of a
darker shade inside the brim II is trimmed
with a rOsette of ecru renaissance lace on which
is perched a small bird with sharply pointed
wings. in gold, bronze and green tints. Lace is
much used on these peaked bOnnets that have
velvet crowns. Gilt lace. or AnIora lace the
color OF the velvet. is gathered in two. rows on
the brim. and inside the brim is full velvet
pun. with perhaps tiny row of velvet ribbon or
flower in the center.
DIAMONDS are no longer set alone but their
beauty is enhanced by being set with other
gems A beautiful pendant consists of three
leayed clover, formed OF topaz golden as the
sun. ruby and a tOurmane. cool and green as
II caught from the crest Of a wave Each OF
these gems is surrounded by border OF small
diamonds superb siX-p0ilted star OF dia-
mOndS Tor the hair has an emerald in the center
and is crossed By crescent Of emeralds that
passes over four OF the diamond points.
NEW TALoR-NADs jackets are quite short.
with straight round basques about six or seven
inches in depth. \ few are made perfectly
plain. but the majority are elaboratelv braided
or trimmed with AStrakIan or marabout
TallOr-maGe dresses are lighter I'm weight than
formerly. A pretty design has a perfectly plain
skirt. the only relief 10 the simplicity OF which
lies in a trimming at the edge of diagonal rows
OF braid Another has the usual close kilt plait-
ings intersected by long cloth panels tastefully
braided
The New York Queen says that hals-long
By tailOrs for young girls. These are OF soft
thick rOugh-fnished cloths that need no lining
and are made loose enough to allow tor grow
Ing girls. Shorter Jackets of blue or brown
cloth have an edge of fur TO border them with
cuffs. collar and muff OF the fur Natural beaver
Is the favOrite fur for this purpose and is used
on brown. blue or black cloth. The very long
Newmarket coats that cover the entire dress
beneath are still worn by misses. Their listers
are OF checked English hOmespun with some
9 plaits Or tucks down the back and front. and q
pointed hood that is lined with gay silk.
EXTRA heavy stockinets are now in great use
Coats and Newmarkets formed OF this thick vet
elastic cloth are shaped TO set without wrinkle
and make very serviceabe winter wraps fer
utility purposes. There are also sold some very
fine. thick, yet supple feece-lined meItOns and
tweeds. which require no extra lining. and fancy
cioakinGs. ribbed basket-woyen. plaided striped
mateaSSe. fTiSe, fTappe. and pOntelle all Of
which are used for paetots Jackets, visites
pelsses. Newmarkets and reiingotes These are
usually lined with either quilted surah or shot
Ievantine. The shades known as pigeon Parma
violet shot with gold. Venetian red. or golden
brown are those preferred for Innings.
GIRLS JUST IL THEIR TEENS have tailor
made dresses of eheviOt or of twllled flannel for
school and general wear in the dark quiet
colOrs in vogue for ladies. These are made in
very simple styles. with a pleated and beltpJ
basque. and pieated skirt on which is draDpd
an apron oyeTskirt. The beIted BASQUE NAV be
double or single breasted and has two pieats
down each front and in the pack stitched Ike
two narrow tucks turned away from each other
yet made to represent box pleat. Only one
dart is in each front. and wnen the bust is not
developed even this dart is omitted and the
slight slOping needed is given By curving the
seam that joins a side form 10 the front this is
all under-arm piece. and must not be considered
the side form of the back.
FIXED RULES ARE BANIsHED BY fashion All
skirts are no longer cut in one way. but are
modelled according TO the stuff OF which they are
made and the occasions on which they are in
tended 20 be worn. For instance skirts made
OF thick and heavy stuffs. such as velvet or vel
Yet-or0caded satin. are almost straight without
trimmings, very little draped. and fuller more
over. than those made Of lighter fabrics These
skirts are pieated at the waist and very full be-
hind The pieats. when are almost alWayS
round. are somewhat irregular 50 as to he nm
even at the bottom, which gives an air of grace
TO the dress On the contrary skirts of dresses
made OF lighter stuffS should be bouffant and