St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-03-17
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Spring Standardization Goods
Woods and Substitution Notes-Mne.
MOdjeskd's Toilettes.
st. Paul, March 1

Small bonnets top-kustted are the rule in
spring millinery and the top-knob is to the
bonnet what Sam Weller's seasoning was
to the pie, ssIt does it." There is moreover
an evident ascension in these top knots and
ten to one, they no longer incline to the left
side. We often see again, a formal bow of
velvet ribbon placed in front, the ends
brought simply down the sides and ending in
strings. The prominence of velvet ribbon is
indeed marked feature and all the more
notable as it is the warm season that is
being provided for. Not dark shades and
bright alone appear but delicate pinks, pale
forward perhaps with view to effective con-
trasting with the manifold gauzes and grapes
which seem likewise to have monopoly in
millinery Ten to one, the new bonnets
show these grapes; for the most part made of
them; often pulled over some handsome
foundation such as gilt for example which
CLEANS through or again these grapes are SO
richly wrought that they glow with Solo
mons glory and need no accessories. Forty
five dollars per yard of extremely narrow
width is the price of one of highest type
s'and when come to put on edging to match
and finishings, where is my proft?" asks
the milliner with melancholy air.
These grapes must not however be imag-
ined as always crinkling with the orthodox
crinkle of Grape. They may or may not;
many showing ribs across, others covered
with fancy figures and the only title to the
name Grape, being the semi-transparency.
Small flowers or of medium size are used in
punches and set slightly on one side with
feathery pompons, but gayly decorated
grape scarce needs the addition of a flower
so we more constantly observe wheat ears or
something akin with lowering butterflies or
dragon-hies above. Frail looking these but
extremely fashionable. Straws OF course
cannot be dispensed with yet are at present
secondary to these rich little Grape creations
and are larger, some very large as to crown
but with wide brim.t But fashion runs to
bonnets or hats of material chiefly and it Is
customary among those who wear, separate
bonnet with each dress, often to have bit of
material to match in the bonnet if not made
entirely of it. So much is the case that a
military looking hat for young ladies-the
ssYoung Guard" may be made of brocaded
goods.
Watering place bellies will look like ami
mated flower gardens, SO very floral are
many new goods and attendant beaux will
watt their signs over yards OF temptingly
portrayed raspberries, cherries and other
small fruits to say nothing of holly sprays,
| he 10
choose from variety of geometric figures
and sometimes the two ideas are combined
as for example where grapes are divided into
equal parts contrasting strongly with each
other, Yet more peculiar are logs OF forest
branches severed by the woodman's axe and
having the heart and inward grainings ex-
posed to view, while interspersed among all
these varities of patterns are humming- birds,
irridescent beetles or butterflies. All this
on cotton goods such as sateens, lawns and
cambrics.
| WOOL GOODS.
Tailor made suits of this Bison cloth are
very stylish but light fannels also tailor
made will be in large demand for morning
and travelling. The revival of poplins marks
a new era in dress but these are not more
notable than Imperial cords in which the
rep of the fabric runs parallel with the sewage
and these will take precedence of the Otto
man rep evening crosswise. Fine armure
and basket goods are again imported and
cashmere and cancels hair will be sought
after not only in dark colors but in delicate
tints for evening at watering places where
finish will be given by lace and Swiss or
India lawn embroideries. Of great impor
lance too are the tribes Of.
THEAR WOOL GOODS.
sach as nuns yelling, kyber cloth and al
batror's plain checked decorated with floral
| figures, in plaids and stripes, embroidered,
knotted and know not what, they will be sold
in immense quantities and for almost all oc-
casions. Then there are the standard sum-
mer silks in narrow stripes and checks !;
handsome styles of India China silks with
oriental figures, Canton grapes and crepe
de chine. Excellent dress patterns contain
some yards of plain wool or silk with COM
plement wrought in old German cross stitch
patterns in italian needlework and South
| Kensington stitch and here is shown forth
an idea applicable to all kinds of goods, not
excepting cotton and that is relief OF plain
stuff as contrast to the decorated or witte
figures.
MARCH NOTES.
White holly carved or painted is made into
imitation ivory ornaments for cloaks and
dresses; set consisting large of drapery
pin, buttons of two dries for basque and
coat and also buckles bestowed anywhere
Stray locks of hair are kept in place by the
old fashioned side comb while above fut-
tering humming bird may be seen attached
to hair pin. Another useful ornament is
tortoise shell hair pin set with crystals since
it can also be placed at the throat in finish to
neck dressing or can be utilized in the hat as
a permanence-A series of pamphlets is
issued this spring by Lord and Taylor thus
giving fresher information than is possible in
catalogue. Each is devoted to some special
department and in sending, therefore, give
an idea concerning what you wish to know
Old and musty looking parchment pa
per is considered extremely stylish but the
ragged edged is still in favor. Formal invi-
tations are however engraved on white
paper fitting in square envelope OF mod
crate size.
SOCIETY ITEMS; MoDJEsKA ToILETTEs.
AS Nadine in the new play of Nadjerda
she appears first in beautiful toilette of bro
cade shaded from deep orange to pale vel
low. Square neck, train and sleeves OF
brocaded gauze with deep pointed apron
front and partial bodice Of the same. The