Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-12-07

year-One is 70 an E0glSnWOmaL, hdITIeC
Martineau, another to an 1rishwoman
(same initials reversed), and one TO an
American, Mrs. Julia A. Tevls, OF oneloy-
Vile, KY, successful teacher.
NEW DESIGNS IN FURs.
The exceeding miIdness of the autumn
has exercised disastrous influence upon
the fur trade, and especially upon the
novelties brought over by importers and
which require an active season tor their
profitable disposal. Among these are
capes with a fringe of tails, which de-
scend lower upon the arm than the ordl-
nary cape and add to the warmth; man
ties of seal skin shaped to the figure and
covering the arms, with muh and cap TO
match, and trimming in sets, including
broad band for the skirt, two for the
fronts, collar, cuffs and muff. These are
very handsome in dark raccoon or brown
Montana bear fur, sometimes called
''Labrador'' bear. Skunk, Alaska seal,
black lynx and the yellowish gray fox are
favOrite furs, but the natural beaver has
lost none of its prestige, and TIE true seal
probably ranks higher than any other for
really distinguished garments, such as
the Newmarket, never made in sealskln
for this latitude until recently, and the
more dressy sets-mantle, hat and mutfs.
Lambs wool, commonly called an "as-
trachan," has been revived this season,
and is used IN the soft gray shades for
trimming cloth suits, as well as
jackets. 1t is softer and more finely
curled than formerly, and in mar
row bands makes a lovely trim
ming for the blue gray and dark smoke
shades of cloth worn by young ladies.
1t is also largely used for the bordering Of
short street jackets and for the trimming
of cloth mutfs and caps made to match.
The fashion of cloth (satchel) mutfs and
caps en- suite is charming one, great
saving to the best ''set," and one easily
followed, for very little time or ingenuity
are required to ''follOW copy and pro-
duce coat, cap and mutf, cut and ar
ranged from patterns and edged with fur,
and yet warm, complete and convenient
outdoor outfit for winter wear is the re-
suit. There is no such thing as astrachan,
sO-called, and why it should have been
found necessary to so so far for name
when curled lambs wool is what 1t truly
is, and much softer, warmer and more
suggestive, is one of those hard things
that are never found out.
Plush is still used, particularly the seal
brown plush which so we'll initiates seal
skin. cit is used for Ottoman satin and
brown matellasse clOaks, for cOllar-brOad
bands and lining. Feather trimmings or
chenille, in leech or tongue-sbaped
strands, are preferred for velvet clOaks
ana NANTES, plain or inquired.
A NEW DEPARTURE AND AN ARRIVAL.
Since writing my last an important ar
rival promises new departure in the
making of ladies' riding habits and cloth
gowns. Hereafter New York must be adj
mitted to rank with first class cities, for
Redfern, who has houses in London and
Paris-and Cowes (Isle of Wight, has
brought over a small army of cutters and
filters and makers and has leased build
ings running through from Fifth avenue
to Broadway at So, 900 per year. and was to
open before Dec. l with some of the de-
signs in costume, which set the fashion in
London and Paris. COwes is where all
the royal dresses are prepared, and it is a
little odd, when one thinks of queens and
princesses as always sitting upon thrones
and wearing crowns, to find them writing
on very nice but ordinary Irish linen note
paper:
DEAR MR.. REDFERN:
Please make me blue serge dress like the
one you made for the Empress of Austria,
and send two each of the ''Eish- wife" suits in
grey and crimson flannel for the princesses.
ALEXANDRIA.
At the present writing the opening,
which will really be an event, has not
taken place, but extensive preparations
are making, and among other things a
lady's horse is being manufactured to be
lUOuulSQ Oll SpIluE5 anu pun III d lUOlu III
which riding habits are tried on, so that
every part of the costume, just as it is
seen when in the saddle, can be tested by
the wearer and placed under final inspec-
ton. One Of the features of the house is
that no two costumes are made alike.
The same cloth or trimming may be used,
but it is never exhibited in duplicate or
produced except to order, and lady can
have special designs reserved to her own
nrsfln - hn T-tlr A n n rnN
which is quite novel and has just been
introduced in Paris, is that of an exquisite
lambs-Wocl or ''astrachan" trimming
upon seal skin. 1t does not sound like a
happy conjunction; but the effect upon
beautiful Newmarket coat of genuine
seat skin is much better than could be
imagined. 1t looks Russian and pictures
que.
The colors in cloth are quite a revela-
ton, there are so many choice shades in
coal bronze, browns and blue that it is
difficult to find here. There are also many
new heather mixtures and Scotch checks
(the checks almost invisible) in warm,
dark shades, draped with peculiar grace
and used with lambs-wOOl trimmed
jackets. The styles are refined and eX-
elusive, the finish and workmanship
heretofore, but whether they will find a
sufficiently large and appreciative public
remains to be seen.
THE COMING CHRISTMAS.
Christmas shopping begins in earnest
this week and the shops and shop win
dOws are now in their glory. Among the
loveliest things are the fans of transpar-
ent gauZe or lace, hand painted. or partly
painted and partly embroidered. There
are also new designs in circular feather
fans tor hanging at the side; and an inf
mite variety of pretty embroidered hand
kerchiefs and dainty articles in lace for
the neck-most of them, however, show
ing the upright collar and full front which
have been the features for some time past.
But there is demand also for real lace,
and many beautiful specimens of duch-
esse and Mechlin are shown, particularly
in collars, cOlIarettes, and new square
XVIIth century design which, it is said is
the latest revival and which has been re-
ceived with approval by young
married ladies of fashion who
see in it perhaps an opportunity to
revive some of the charming and pic
turesque XVIIth century NOTES.-The
period, at least during part of it, of the
most graceful dressing the world has
ever seen.
Handkerchiefs are suggested as most
desirable and suitable gift to bestOw upon
young girls. They are so pretty that they
are so costly that they are out of the reach
of the average pocket money. But there
are also many other desirable articles
long spiral scent bottles of opaline and
cut-glass, with solid silver tops; bags and
purses of crockadile leather, and the an
tique pins, rings, bracelets, and clasps of
crown Derby silver, with Assyrian heads
and ancient hierOglyphic inscriptions.
A novelty Rhine stone jeWelry is a slen-
der form of solid silver set with small
Rhine stones in colors which equal the
most valuable gems. The clearness and
beauty are remarkable, and the few ex-
hibited were sold Immediately. In the
antique silver ornaments the colors are
reproduced as well as the forms, and
sometimes dash of old gold is blent with
the silVer-the crescent pins, for example,
are often half old gold, halt oXydized sill
yer, but the shading of both is so man.
aged that conspicuous contrast is avoid
ed. Arrow heads, old stone and bronze
implements are repeated in miniature in
these various ornaments, with tiny an
tique heads as pendants, or heads en-
larged and linked together to form clasps,
bracelet and neck bands.
Apart from articles of personal adorn-
ment there is probably nothing so attrac-
tive as the wonderful display of colored
and decorated glass in lamps, jugs, vases
and sets for table and toilet use. The cost,
too, is so moderate that every individual
man or woman can have bit of ruby or
amber to hold freight and sunshine and
may drink from it if they choose, with q
hanDV consciousness that if wealth docs