The Red Cloud chief., 1884-04-11
Feminine FancieS.


vest of Il contrasting color, made OF
jersey cloth. such as red. cream, or
gray inside black wool j~erseys,l and
their rolling collar and the buttons and
cuffs and position plaitings are of vel
vet. A great deal of silver braid and
metal bees and butterflies will be used
ON the velvet collar and cuffs and vests
of such garments. Buttons are incon-
spicuous and small. as they are usually
hidden either by a soft vest or by the
velvet ribbon bows.
Clover blossoms are among the most
popular of the new spring flowers. In
their natural cOlors, white and a pink
ish purple, they are remarkably pretty,
and trim most effectively. They are
much used for trimming small bonnets
If delicate gray.
Straight back breadths are one OF the
features that promise to find favor, but.
although this drapery is straight, it 10
so stiifly lined, is itself so voluminous
and Is III over so large 4 pad hustle
that n very bOuffant effect is given.
Three breadths of silk are thus arranged
in two triple box plaits, with an erect
heading at the top, which is hooked
over the end of the basque.
The only universal feature of new
draperies is that the fulnesS begins at
the belt, not several inches below it, as its
design primarily is to enlarge the hips,
and secondarily to soften the severe out
lines of the whole costume; otherwise
this drapery may drop down far
below the knees, or else be very short,
or it may be punched up in n quite
short pOuf in the back. with straight
box plating hanging below this pouf to
the foot of the skirt. or else the entire
back breadths may hang straight from
belt to foot.
The newest Jerseys are really short
position basque>. and are fitted by front
darts and side forms precisely as other
basques are, their only special feature
being the webbing Of which they are
made, and the fact that they have no
lining and are cut so very SINAI, that
they are easily stretched into a smooth,
clOSe-ftting garment.
An important feature of the new cos
tune is the appearance of fullness and
width given to the lower skirt; this full
ness is confined to the outside. however,
rs every French dress is made up ON a
foundation skirt of silk. alpaca or
which remains very narrow and
gored. measuring not than
two and three-e ghthS yards around its
lowest edge.
PannierS, fOunces. sleeves and Mo-
liere vests are made of escurial net,
which forms a most attractive combina-
ton with l~ustrous silk or satin, and
is more popular at present than
ever before. An entire dress of escurial
net owe satin makes 4 very handsome
toilet.
a striking costume of very pale fawn
colOred cashmere for spring ear is
trimmed with sapphire velvet and blue
with fawn.
Polonaises are straight princesse
dresses in the back. with a basque front
may be pointed. or belted with
and a clasp. or else in square
coat shape a Ia Louis QuatorZe, with
square pockets piped with velvet on
each side. and q full lace cravat that
from the throat to the waist
line. Straight full box plated back
breadths are on some of these garments,
while others have the middle forms cut
off in 4 point on the %tOurnure, and to
these, gathered IN a great roll owe the
pad. are added three straight breadths
Of silk that hang to the end of the lower
skirt; these breadths are lined with
stiff lawn. are caught with a tape under
meath sewed across half their length be-
the waist. and are but;oned Tin
to the low skirt on each side
near the foot.
The long paletots or jackets, with
pointed sides and short backs, once in
for outside wraps, are now re-
vived in the richest black materials.
such as gauze velOurs. jetted net, and
or thread lace over satin surah
Innings. Ii the dress is black, it is well,
at this intermediate season. to choose
black satin rhadames. or else mer-
and have jetted net for a soft
vest, and pulled skirt front with tucked
satin side panels and full, long black
irapery.
Gowns for visiting and afternoon
wear will be made of biscuit cashmere
Dr. fine ribbed ottoman cloth, another
material, combined with shot silk,
,elvet or ottoman brOche in various
of color. the most popular being
chaudron. sapphire blue or
Itch myrtle green.
Every shade of fawn, from the palest
to deep plain brule. will be much
n vogue this spring, rs also an uncOm-
non mushroom" brown. dark choco-
ate blended with red, and a new tint of
warm green
The spring hats that have made their
are strawS, the crowns Of
which are generally very high and the
narrow. and the shades so strik-
NO as to be obtrusive, and to fall back
lpOn bOnnets.
The back breadths of foundation skirts
till have two springs across them to
make them bOuffant. and the cushion of
lair sewed to the belt in the back is the
'ustle preferred to all others.
Black silks will be much worn this
ummer. They will be trimmed with
ace in preference to jet and passemen-
erie.
The newest and prettiest feather orna-
nents for the hair are in white. pale
ink and pale blue. and are powdered
With gold or silver, and mounted as
.igrettes.
Velvet ribbons with satin on the
wrong side are quite a feature of trim
nings for spring lks.-Boston Herald