Omaha daily bee., 1884-11-14
HOW rAlhoRs SIZE Is UP.
A Philosopher on Dress IcIls How
Clergy Doctors, Law
ycrs. sports, Actors aud
Politicians Array Them.
selves.

Politicians Array Them
selves.
New York Star.
There are always certain classes of
men who have styles of their own. They
pay little attention to the latest fashions
except to modify them into the direction
of their own ideas. This habit sir" said
the tailor with dignity, 81 regard as the
consumate flower of a high civilization.
1t gives the individual a marked charact.
or. 1t distinguishes him from the herd.
To the civilian his garments are as much
an evidence of the calling-to one who
can read the signs-as his uniform to a
soldier or his livery to a footman. There
are %clergymen, for instance. Who can
mistake one, even though he doesn't eff.
feet the clerical cut, which he ought to,
by the bye2 | cut for a number of pre-.
lates, and l tell you, sir, they have got
to wear a coat with a straight collar and
a vest that buttons around the neck
church of England costume, sir. or none
at all from my establishment"
"But how" inquired the reporter,
''are you to distinguish the doctor and
the lawyer2'
"0nly a novice would ask that ques-
ton. Physicians in good practice-and,
of course, / have none others among my
customers-are the most particular
of men. Take a Madison avenue prac.
~titioner as an example-and he's the
ideal doctor for youR Large, stout, not
to say a trifle flabby, and wearing a belt,
carries himself well, great dignity, i'm
mense pomp. He dresses always i'll fine
black ~diagonais, with rich, black, kersey
top coat, and all must fit him without a
wrinkle. Sometimes he INDUCES in q
fancy cashmere vest, and the big bunch
of seals he bangles at his fob sets off the
neatest stomach to fit in the world. In
hat, gloves and boots he is u~nexceptional
and extravagant. His scarfs are the
richest, his linen and cambria the finest.
He wears three diamond studs-no other
jewelry but the seals. Well, sir, he's an
impressive spectacle, rich, neat, elegant,
finished, and more pleasing to the eyes
of a rich woman than hot-house flowers.
"But lawyers-pshaw! They're the
worst dressers in the world it they
amount to anything. Want something
black, and take the frat goods that come
to hand. Never want a new suit till
their old one gets disgracefully shabby or
falls to iieces entirely. Boots generally
look well, for they like warm feet and
pay big prices. But hatsl-shocking!
The worst tiles in this town are partly
distributed on the heads of our most
eminent lawyers. You can hardly get
them to come here and try on a suit, but
must send 1t on the chance of fitting.
They'll always take it, don't care how 1t
looks, if it goes on easily. But, bless
you, that isn't what a true artist wants.
Big lawyers have paid me high prices for
suits that when | saw IN them sent a
SILVER through me. Such garments
would give any establishment but mine a
bad name.
"Another class who dress characteris-
tically," continued the tailor, garrulously,
fare men of business. They want a
dozen coats and as many trousers and
waistcoats and the like, in multitudes,
after the latest fashion. Yet your true
man of fashion is no dude. He Is never
pronounced, and never has on shining
new clothes. It's the general effect
the elegance that comes only with long
experience or a careful valet-that shows,
and it's what the mere dude can never
catch on to. The dudes and all the
noodles who merely copy the most ex-
travagant fashions, while they are our
best paying customers, don't compel our
admiration. It's the man who knows his
style and dresses up to it who is the true
dresser.
"Of course, even you can always recog-
nize the sporting man. He is a species
with divers classes. The racing man
dresses differently from the yachting
man. The dog fancier has salient pecu-
l~iarities unlike these of the horse %fancier,
and the mere gambler, who looks on
sports of all sorts as simply opportunities
for bookmaking, has a style all his own.
But they differentiate in little things
trinkets, linen, and the like. They are
all fond of high colors and unique pat
terms. Their abundant jewelry is apt to
be in the form of pugs' heads or racing
insignia. Most have a weakness for bell.
crowned hats, yellow stitched gloves, and
pointed shoes. Their canes remind you
of the neck and head of q stork, with
the long bill on the top. They ale a
knowing crowd, mostly, but about dress
they're as innocent as babies.
"Closely allied to sporting men are
actors-from a %tailor's point of view. But
there's a wide difference essentially. The
sporting man wants to dazzle you; the
actor to impress and overcome you. The
sporting man will distribute his magni6-
cence all over him; the actor relies on
some such concentrated effect as a seal
skin coat or a low cut shirt collar and
wide brimmed hat. He wants his clothes
cut, not to fit him, but to drape him, and
he arranges himself in attitudes favorable
to classic folds. Actors are liberal custo'
mers when they have money. But poll
ticians stand high with us. They are the
fellows for new clothes! They want
everything sleek and shiny, spick and
span, and brand new. They are the best
blocks, too, and afford more
to a true artists eye than the
elegant fellow who distracts at
from his clothes to himself"