Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-02-10

OF brown satin, the front draped and
buttOned, the sides laced with
completed by cape which is
draped up and laced upon the left shout
der. This suit is completed by a large
brown hat faced with gathered velvet and
trimmed with magnificent plumes. These
laced effects reappear at stated intervals,
but they are always a stylish finish for
wool. The light weight, weather-resist-
ing and softly draping brown cloth will
be much sought after for travelling
dresses this coming spring. Its qualities
were hardly appreciated last year, but
some ladies discovered them, and it will
be in demand among these.
LOOKING FOR COLOR.
1t is more than curious, it is quite dis
heartening sometimes, to find how difficult,
how impossible it is to procure favorite or
what are spoken of as fashionable"
shades of color when an occasion arrives
for the acquisition of a new dress or cos
/ tune. Perhaps friend at distance re-
quests you to procure her piece OF silk
or wool or satin Of color or pattern not
Obtainable in her small community, and
you set out without a shadow of doubt
! upon your mind of being able to meet her
wishes. But you travel one thoroughfare
and down another, from Broadway to
Sixth avenue, or vice versa, finally visit
ing as fOrlorn hope more remote regions
without finding even an approximate to
| the object of your search, and finally you
are obliged to give up the acquisition en-
tirely or take something quite OppO-
site to your original intention. Extra
ordinary, you think and say, that in all
New York not enough of that fine gold
shrimp pink, bronze, smoke gray, or
prune can be found to make a dress.
There are plenty of staring reds, yellows,
blues and mOngrel greens, plenty OF dingy
browns and staring puppies, plenty of
Powered fabrics in undesirable shades and
mixtures selling at half price. You go
home with the impression that taste is
changing, that the cOlOrs that do not sell
and that the stores are full of are those
that are fashiOnably worn, and you try to
reconcile yourself to what seems to be the
inevitable order of things.
But in reality the fashionable shades
were all bought up long ago, and the I'M
sold remainder represents the unfashiOn-
able, the conventional, perhaps it would
be better to say the accustomed cOlOrs,
which are always furnished in package
of goods whether they are wanted or not.
One of the reasons why fine or otherwise
desirable shade costs more to purchase
than a common one is that it must always
be produced to order. If not one piece
will come in the color desired and eleven
in the regulation series of primaries.
One lazy spent d@@y recently in trying
to find shade of nasturtlum, which one
would suppose Plentiful enough, and
finally took old gold. Another made as
fruitless quest after smoke gray to match
a French dress and was obliged to content
herself with bonnet of claret velvet and
train it with grey feathers. The only way
to secure choice cOlOrs and patterns is Co
select early in the season from the fresh
productions, unless one can afford very
special f2Urlcs, and in these the supply is
naturally limited. The most fashionable
color of the season, yet the one least seen
upon the street is gray, in the mouse,
smoke, and electric shades. Doubtless it
exclusive class during the spring and
summer, for during its second season
when a thing is on the decline in the most
fashionable circles it begins to acquire
popularity. These soft dun and blue gray
tints are, however, so refined and lovely
that they can never be undesirable, and a
lady is perfectly safe in wearing them
whether they are Questionable" or not.
A TROUSSEAU
not very costly, but very carefully
studied, shows some good and original
| ideas. The travelling dress is brown
! cancels hair and satin, with full fine
/ pleated front of the satin, and hat orna-
mented with a group of pale yellow
| feathers. This is the real travelling dress.
! The bridal dress is called the travelling
| dress, but it is really visiting dress of
| prune silk and velvet, with afine interior
! pleating of exquisite gold embroidered
! lace over tulle. An evening dress is of
/ pink surah, the front covered with two
wide flOunces Of Oriental lace, draped up
under bunch of large crushed roses. The
/ bodice is high and covered with the lace
! drawn full into a wide belt of satin rib
! bon, where a cluster of roses will natur-
I ally find a place. Another evening dress,
made short, was of cream satin with rows
/ of pOmpOns round the bottoms and groups
! OF them for ornaments. Small ones stud
ded the front of the dress. A fawn-
colOred satin had front covered with
! brown cones in shaded plush, plush
! jacket and full satin vest. Wide bands,
/ wide lace, wide f1OunceS and much over
! laying are employed, and it is thought
will be continued for some time to come.
The aigrette is revived as an ornament
! for the hair, now that the couture has
| mounted to the top of the head again. Ii
! consists of three little feather tips, with
! light filaments grouped in the centre tC
give airiness and grace, and is fastened
! with a jeweled ornament-fy pin OF
arrow. 1t is twenty-five years since tt ey
! had a fashionable vogue, the hair having
| been mucn oil the Time worn low ana III
very simple fashion.
Net over silk is very much used this
season for the ball toilets OF
| debutantes and very young ladies'
1t is always full and often doubled for
draperies, and is not edged with lace,
loops and plots Of ribbon being the only
garniture. The style which married ladies
have largely adopted of a simulated
double dress, with long lines and pleated,
81
much variation, and is very becoming. II
is graceful, yet possesses dignity, and has
elements of permanency. Short, fanciful
drapery is only fit for young girls and fol
secondary fabrics.
1t is said that the aesthetic styles have
disappeared. On the contrary, the best
| of them have become incorporated into
the fashionable dressing of the period
We owe to the aesthetic rage the fashion
able revival of many charming old-time
inexpensive fabrics. Amongthem chint2
cOttons, thin wool de LANES, known as
nuns yelling, the light, pure China silks
| and the restoration of the pretty gathered
! waists, useful bOnnets and picturesque
sleeves. Even the Mother Hubbard
and other styles which are little used by
women are relegated to children, and the
quaint and amusing ideas free from al
vicious tendencies, and therefore worth
more than a sneer or the harsh tone Of
condemnation.
THE WEARING OF MOURNING.
There is one old and long established
custom that women ought to possess
moral courage and common sense enough
to take into their own hands and settle
for themselves on a simple and permanent
basis. 1t is the custom of wearing mourn
! ing for departed friends. The putting on
and taking off of black within a stated
time is in itself, instead of being a compli
ment, an insult to the dead. One does moi
put on and put off ones sorrow in this
way: there is, therefore, no reality to this
fashion of symbOliZIng it. A loss by death
is irremediable; the grief of it may be
hidden away, but it lasts forever. 1t il
true that the desire when one has lost g
near and dear friend is for silence
and darkness, for neutral tints
and for the presence and association
with only that which harmonizes with
our own sense of loss and bereavement
But we cannot often indulge in this selfish
| absorption and exclusion, and it is doubt
less good for us that we cannot. Oul
lives 90 on; our duties remain. They
must be performed. We put our griefs
| away. We do not intrude them upoT
others. We lock them up and keep then
as a sort of luxury for quiet hours wher
indulgence will not interfere with our OBJ
legations to the living and active par
ticipation in the duties of the hour. There