The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1884-05-24
Fashions for the Season.

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there ever a season in which it was not
used? And now that jetted lace and
| jetted trimmings are made by ma
chinery, and can be bought for song,
it will flourish more than ever upon
| cheap grenadines and serviceable black
mantleS. There are specimens of let
| ted trimmings that are beautiful. but
| they are overpowered by vast amount
of cheap and snowy beaded embroidery
upon lace, which, nauseous as it is,
sounds as well in print as if itwere the
richest and rarest of its kind. The en-
| tire Setted front to dress can now be
bought for five dollars, and ietted trim
ming lace for fifty cents a yard-a great
| temptation to shine at small expense.
Red or gold, lilac or amber satin can
be bought with linen back for eighty
i've cents yard, and when the plain
| front and basque are covered with lace
and the back draped, who is to know
| that it did not cost five dollars per
yard? But the jetted laces will be still
more popularity used for trimming thin
black dresses, grenadines, pongees,
nuns vailings and crepe de chine Jet
| ted fringes and laces can be employed
in profuson without taxing the strength
| of the most delicate tissue, us the beads
are hollow and the weight nothing in
comparison to that used u few years
ago.
Crepe de chine is an expensive fabric,
and for this rich ietted ornamentatiOn
has a special and elective affinity. Like
pongee, it requires lighting up in order
| that its strength and beauty may be
seen, and fine ietted trimming-not
upon lace but upon the material or in
| the form of passementerie or fringe
! fulfillS this Office. The virtue and vice
of Jet is its availability. 1t is used upon
| all cheap mantels, cheap bonnets. bon
nets that are stretched upon blocked
frame, covered first with some high
colored satin at fifty cents a yard, and
then with ietted lace, with border for
the brim and the edge behind These
can be bought as low as $3.50 each.
Biscuit tints are fashionable this sea-
son, as they have been more or less
every Spring for many years. They
always appear with the new importa-
tons. because they are used as q mark
of distinction and in the making of the
most elegant fabrics abroad, and are
sent here with the natural idea that
they possess the same significance. But
this is not the case at ell. In Paris, and
to less extent in London, black is the
| badge of labor; it is the uniform of the
! business and professional woman. while
the laboring populations are still more
widely separated from fashion and its
votaries, more especially on the Cont
nent, by the short stuff or cotton dress
and the clumsy and time honorcd access
series of their class. Abroad, therefore,
these fine tints are a badge of diStinc-
ton. Hyde Park and the Bots de Bou-
logne are gay with the most delicate
tints, pale blue, sea shell pink, buff,
ecru and cream white, while the streets
of the two great cities, English and
French, are black, morning and even
ing, with the myriads of business and
professional workers whoform the same
sort of funeral procession from the era
die to the grave.
The straw bonnets are, as yet, quite
secondary to the bonnets made up of
gold embroidered tissues, or real lace
over satin, and trimmed with aigrettes
aud gold ornaments, or with clusters of
fine flowers. Gold lace over primrose
satin looks well, and fine real lace over
pink. with aigrette of white marabout,
powdered with silver. 1t must be I'M
derstood that gold lace in small designs
and of genuine untarnishable quality is
meant. The market is glutted with
coarse rubbish that it is an insult to
the intelligence of the average woman
to make for her wearing. A novelty
in straw'is hat with a high crown,
and hrim rolled upon the edge. which
Is enlarged in circular form upon the
front. so that upon the head it assumes
the appearance of bonnet. The favor
lite color in these straws is dull ecru
or light mulberry. Upon the mulberry
tint darker shade of mulberry would
be used for velvet folds and facing. and
u group OF mushrooms in natural color
A dark ecru hal of this kind was seen
on Easter Sunday. trimmed with null
berry folds and facing and a group of
three NICE. above which a cocks plume
swept over the crown.
Dresses of satin rhadameS, covered
completely with lace flounces, draper
les and cordages, are in the hands OF
dressmakerS Black Chantilly lace is
used for entire dresses in Paris, and
trainlGss dresses, with Vatican like
grace. made of lace over pale satin
rhadames, rule the day there One of
the most striking novelties in new
fabrics is Chantilly silk; the ground is
shot in all colors, blue ard pink. brown
and gold, green and cardinal, etc. On
this brilliant ground is thrown kind
of raised embroidery in messy, vel
vety appearance, like en- application of
lace. 1t is decidedly original and
stylish either in dark colors for visiting
costumes or in light shades for evening
toilet.
Black gros grains are made up with
an overdress that has the basque front
sloped to long peplum pointed sides,
while the back is in princess shape.
Black velvet ribbon fastened in the un-
der arm seam is tied on the front in a
point, and the pcplum ends have each
a large passementerie ornament. or
else ribbon loops and floating ends.
The fronts and sides of the SKIRT are
covered by deep, sharply-pointed
apron, that has five wide folds turned
upward across it, and on each fold is
laid row of embroidery or of lace.
For black satin skirt that is covered
by two very deep llama lace 1ounces,
| held down each side hV rOSetteS of black