Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-04-05

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! poses: ard while dressy ard graceful still
! comparatively inexpensive. We have also had
new era in cGttGns which even vet has not begun
to reveal its possibilities but which has already
! given Us an apOthcosis OF the prints and ging-
! hams. the satin jeans and canbrics. the lawns
! and nusns OF our forcmOtherS. But the deal
ers and manufacturers are becoming, uneasy.
The pure materials clean and wear too long.
and are not easily spoiled They want to bring
| back the porliGs. the mixed silk AMI wool fab
! RIGS. the stutfs that cookie and crinkle and
| collapse in shower. and are therefore much
! better Wear-for the manufacturers. The effort
! In regard to poplins will not be made seriously
! until neXt autumn: but large cons;gnments have
| already been received and lain away, and the
ground IL preparing for a future campaign. 1t is
sara That change and great Improvement has
been made in manufacture of tine Irish roplins.
! ami the result a decided advance in the softness
/ ana drap'HG qualities of the fabric. But there
! Is no such change as this observable. 1t is pre-
! cise'y the same horizontally corded silk fabric
that was always standing out stifiiy, admirably
adapted to dOwager dresses: but not youth
fni: not adaptable: and Objectionable re-
cause while costing as much as handsome
! silk it Is not silk. 1t does make handsome demi-
{ trained indoor gowns in black or gray or wine
color for stately middle-agei danes whose liuht
! Irou-irou days are all over and j: it can be kept
IN It's place and mace to serve its proper and
legitimate purpose. pOplin may return to us as
soon as it plcasrs. Queen Victoria wears pop
/ l!Ii She has also newly curtained some of the
W
! Princess OF Wales will know better than to ear
( it tor the next ten years at least
New SILK and wool tissues have been revived
to take the place OF al-silk or all-woOl grena-
/ dimes They are pretty and make up into snowy
toilets which trim effectively with light beaded
lace and fringe. White and black pongees are
among the new and dainty materials for sum-
lner wear. this fabric having been before con-
hned to ecru tints, which are trying to some
complications. A great deal of embroidery is
tpi off i've
decoration and some of the white. embroidered
! In all white. are equal In appearance to the
most expensive China crepe. Shot silks have
been struggling for recognition for several
years past: but their proper place in the ccGn-
! omy OF dress is hardly understood. nor are the
combinations of color always such as to satisfy
! an educated taste. There is more risk in buy
| ing shot silk (changcable) than in buying
| plain silk. so many that look attractive in
the hard proving unbecOming. For this reason
many avoid them. and the dealers have found
them rather slow i'm selling. The mistake has
Chiefly been in uniting two positive colors. or
colorS too high in tore. Some lovely and deli
| cate combinations have been exhibited lately
which were purchased as soon rs seen. Instead
OF c0lOIs tInts are cOmbincd-ecru and brown.
ash gray and pink. pale gold and plum, old gold
ana wine. ana others. These should be trimmed
with pinked-nut ruches or rutfrcs in the solid
single coiors OF the threads. Some lovely spring
brocadcs have made their appearanCe-On inthe
inherent shades OF moonlight gray. to be COM
bined with SOFT rich. plain. satr-tinished tdiNe.
Another combines the shades of the petunia in
"a rttunla pattern. and may be combined with
soft wood bronze or with plain primrose or pc
; tuna satin. buttercup brOcade was made I'D
lately of satin in plain brown most effectively,
the brocade forming the upper part of the pam
els the lower part OF the front OF the skirt and
skirt front to the bodice to the pointed end OF
which the skirt was attached at the back
Some magnificent pushes have also appeared:
all silk, light in weight. but true art fabrics
Ihey are plain and figured OF a grand scale;
/ the figures not embossed. but raised from the
center of the thick pile without depressing or
hattening their environment. A superb cos
tune in dark gray has been worn by Madame
: Won Stamwitz, of the Madison Square theatpr
of this kind. The artist whose travelling cos
tune iii the alpine Roses has been produced
by leading house under the name of the Lshia
the given name of the countess
Among the art fabrics. as new soft silk light
perfectly diaphOnOuS and intended for summer
Graieres has made Its appearance which holds
more delicate color than could Toe believed or
conceived. 1t is in pale olive and yellow and
has small leafcss branches scattered with ber-
res scattered over it in dull reds and browns
and green's 1t is an exquisite design for light
dress draperieS. combined with silk. muslin or
nuns yelling. which this season is found in all
tnts and cOlOrS.
The satins surpass themselves in the natural
beauty of their designs upon the usual dark
and neutral grounds The cured edues and
lovely shading of the feurde-iys the wild Nav
roses. the palsies, the stock gille flowers. and
other Garden tavorites are reproduced o the life
Oid-fashioncd fUulards also revived, and
chintz cottons i'll large patterns which bring
back all the glOries of the Dolly Warden era
and threaten another eruption Of the bepufled
oVerdresses OF that very pronounced era.
great contrast to these are the modest fine
pli-chccked and hair-strip"d 9inIhams i'm lovely
shades OF yellow and pink and blue buff art
green. ecrn. rec! and white. geld and brown
stone color and buo-Some solid some diapo-
nally checked and barred. or latticcd with faint
lines vi black These ginghams are not cheap
ihey are forty cents per yard and thirtv-two
inches wide hut they are refined dainty and
nave lady written all over them. They make
lovely summer morning dresses in the country
or "ouiu not be considered out Of place in quiet
ncghborhOOdS at an afternoon crOquet or lawn
tennis party The. have usually been trimmed
WIFE hight embrulderies but now we have en-
hfold"lies In colors. which can be selected to
match the delicate tlnts of the gnghams and
thus seems to have been made for them.
OUTDOOR DRESS
is decidedly simple, almost to severity The
adaptation of color to laces and the SNOWY
ornamentation applied to thin fabrics by recent
improvements In machinery is sure to be fol-
lowed by a deuge of color and glitter: and
already the evidence of great movement in
color among the masses is Clear and strong
This is not to be regretted. The mothers of
the majority OF the daughters Of to-day did
l'ehance all Their lives III gray cotton or black
a!ihlca- ilef lNeS We're depressed by the
absence OF brightness and chcerlulness from
Their clothes and surroundings. The beauIy of
cOors woven INTO flowers Tor their adornmeut
was as f"rei4E To their expectations as to their
WafGFobeS. which perhaps hardly held the
extra gown or the hcnret for Sunday best
Colors were put in by hand with the needle
and after stiff conventional patterns and only
AT hl-h cost. l-accs were expensive. Real or
coarse cotton limitations and beaded trimmings
were only known in black and white
Hundreds Of bright and pretty accessories are
aVa'iabie to-day at tribe OF cost. which then
were cut OF Reach or not in existence and the
huu@er 81 the ages for brightness and beauty
VIII be- satisfied in confused. violent and
uES! >ltnatic way by tie present and coming
possibilities III the way of color and cheap Orna-
ntcItGtiUn
But III the meantime fashion, high fashion is
taking. has already taken. the alarm 1t is moth
! In9 II Lot different from the majority 1t de-
| Nights III an eternal minority. 1t takes refuge
Ill the strctCst Of taiiUr-nadc cost umcs: in long
Close Jersey rodingotCS. in small toqueS of cloth
which lit TIE head the coat fits the body; i'm
[ darkest or least cOnSp. cGUuS what may be con-
sidcIed atmospheric shades Of color and i'm the
entire absence Of anything in the way OF orna-
mcnt, even buttons. The most buttons for
cloth suits are of braid. ana the only finish al
| lowed IS single rOw Cf braid stitched 70 the
edge The finest suits do not show this-they
are satln-lined, hut destitute OF any trimming
whatever Tie fashionable taior-made skirt
nt fpr Iel-;