Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-08-17

sOxxruiSo ABouTsAsHioss.



Cnshussees- piasdp, Biocks, and strisess
Horper's Bosar, IN IL current issue,
rays: Wcollen siui7s Will be used IN prefer
encr TO those VI siIk for street costumes
and the novelty IN these IL called woci.ve'.
vet. These veiyets have twiiied srou.s
Of bsrd-twisted wool. 10 which are Iaise9
figures Of uncut loops Ike those o. reppeu
frarjcdl while Others are smooth. Single
detached figures, lstge flowers, diamonds.
hlocks. sor vines are very effective when
f~isf IN 4 ground Of the same shade, or on
ehsnrcabIe ground Of two or three colors.
plniu tWilled stufys are Imported 10 match
the ye,yct-agured twill. aud It Il we'll 10
snv here that plain stuiis are shown 10 match
~ figured fabrics In all kinds OF materials.
This fact n interesting, as Il proves that the
pian OF combining two or three fabrics In
ore dress viii continue In favor.
YErrgp wooLLENs.
The repped woollcns rival those with
twiiled ground, and are shown In great va
,iely, such as plain ottoman reps, and the
brocsdcd reps with figures like velvet upon
the 6nely-repped surface; also In the dit
ferent kinds OF poplin that are mixed With
silk 10 soften them Slightly, or else are en-
tirely Of wool; stu others have large balls
Of looscly-woven silver or gilt threads mr.
ranged on separate breadths. so that they
will be only used at the foot Of the skirt,
and there are bars and cross-bars OF tinsei
woven In the same way.
CLOTHS IN NEW coLoRs.
Tricct or slightly ribbed cloth IL more
largely imported than The perfectly smooth
habit cloth, and there are May OF the
very rough bison cloths known rs bourette
ldsons. A new effect II given TO these by
arranging the rough threads In small cross
bars by COUGHING them, or holding them
fast with cross stitches taken az intervals.
~ Is done in nee3le-work. The new shade
Of gray blue in which these cloths appear
IL called Gordon blue, after the English
hero, and there are bright greens called
Little-Duke green, and the creSs0n green
already noted; but more than all others
are shown the mord0yf, or golden browns,
The dahlia and prune or plum shades. some
Of which are red plum, and others the blue
plum or damson tints.
NEW BRAIDs. BANDS, ETC.
The garniture for these cloths il in many
instances arranged on the dress pattern
when IL Is bought, and consists OF bands
OF Astrakhan cloth. or applique designs OF
velvet edged with Escurial cords, or else
OF the new cable cords or twisted braids
nut on permanently In borders and fringed
out fluffy at the ends. The Astrakban
bands are usually put rs q border from six
10 ten inches deep at the foot Of the skirt,
and again on the jacket, but need not re-
appear on the drapery. Lengtbwise de-
sirns Of The thick mobair braid, also spiral
and coil patterns. may be put just above
the Astrakhan bands. or else the braid
may serve as az entire trimming IL
IL. ends are brought in many rows
10 the foot OF the skirt and rayelled
there 10 form fringe. Another arrange
ment is that Of Astrakhan bands
across the entire front and sides OF the skirt
below the short apron draDery; wide velvet
ribbon may be used in the same way. and
there are vines Of applique figured velvet
for The same purpose. Ii Is, however, es-
pecially chic to have the sides of the skirt
different; thus a single broad stripe OF
trimming may be down the left side from
belt t. loot. while the right side is covered
by the low-draped Greek apron, which will
remain in favor, though no longer new.
Cross bands for the left side OF the skirt
are also prepared on the fabric. sometimes
by rows Of Hercules braid, IN other cases
With velvet, and still Others by Astrakhan
and braid together. Black braid is
used on all the new creSSOn green.
Gordon blue, and gray cloths, but
fer various brown shades another
shade Of brown is used III the trimming.
Hence a safe design for wool dress made
now to be worn in the early autumn will
be a twilled Cheviot or tricot Of Gordon
blue. or the gray shades. made with plain
round skirt trimmed at the foot with bor-
der OF three or four rows Of Iuch-wIde black
Hercules braid. set on 10 touch. and soft
ened ut the top by three or four narrower
rows Of sOutache, above which is a single
curled row then up the left side this braid
IT. repeated at intervals to the belt. The
oyerskirt has very long apron draped
low on the right, and caught up 10 the
belt 10 disclose the left SIDE bands; the
back dTapery hangs in two, three, or
four large pleatS. quite straight, with
out any catching up, and there is
no trimming on any part OF the
OSerskirt. The position basque has 3
pointed vest made Of the trimming in cross
rows; there may be two bOx-pleats behind,
bu; the fancyis for plain cuirass basque
that H. shorter behind than in front, and this
Is bordeied all around with the rows OF
braid. When the plated mohsir braids
are used, more dIessy border for the
foot is furnished by placing this braid in
top. and the ends allowed to hang an inch
ortwo in rayelled fringe; this forms bor-
der al the foot Of skirt and all around the
basque or jacket, being p,sced in two rows
no the front and on the Understanding
collar. also on The wrists OF The
sleeves as cuffs. Another fancy is that
Of putting all he trimming on Que part
Of the garment and leaving the rest
N.
with an applique velvet vest arranged apOn
the part 10 be used for the basque. and the
skirts are plain, while in other eases the
skirt, for instance, Of "a brown-wool dress
will have red or blue bands Of graduated
width woven around 1t, and this red will
not be seen In the basque or drapory. Que
very pretty design has graduated balls OF
gilt. or silver, or coquelicot red woven at
the foot Of mOTdOrt, blue. or green skirts,
and not used elsewhere on the costume.
There are also many skirts made OF stripes
laid in pleats that give glimpses Of bright
color folded underneath in the way now
popular.
FIGURED CAsBMEREs. TAPESTRIES, ETC.
For those who retain their preference for
soft fabrics there arc French cashmeres in
all the new shades, with tiny silk figures.
StdItttf iptt NOt'. N''Nh WIN ',NN
embroidery, and only 10 be used for the
basque or its plastron, and for parts OF tue
skirf. while the plain cashmere forms the
foundation OF the dress. This il in delicate
taste when the ground il Gordon blue and
the tiny dots are red with q gold rim, OF
else the ground Is oress0n green or dahlia
color, and the figures are mixtures OF Co
aue,ieot, blue, and gold. kenslngton
cloths have the new embroideries this sea-
son, which, instead Of being arranged as
borders. are now in sprays and sprigs
blocked of In squares or placed in length
wise stripes. The scallopcd seiyedges In
embroidery are replaced by these pretty
groups that arc 10 be placed, like the gilt
balls or bars already noted, along the bot
tom OF the skirt or its drupcry before it Is
laid In plcats. All long loose Keusingtou
stitches and India stitches are again used,
but there Is also fancy fol initiating the
tapestry cross stitches in dull and faded
tints like those found ia antique tapestry
bsngings.
Plans, BLOCKS, AID STRIPES.
Plaids Of subdued colors in new coInbi-
nations ATE shown In twilled and in otto.
&. mau woods for children's and misses dress
c., and also for those Of young ladies, but
there Is more decidedly tendency for
blocks and squares Of alternate colors, or
else IN monotone, but Of different fabric
from the ground; thus there are friSf or
else plain velvet blocks on cashmere or on
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