Connecticut western news., 1884-10-01
FARM AND GARDEN.

GETTING IN THE CRoPs.-After the first of October the farmer who has many beets or mangels to harvest should keep close watch of the daily weather report, and if a severe cold wave or frost is approaching, harvest the crop. If in a hurry the roots may be drawn into heaps, tops and all, and covered with a little straw. In fact, little damage will be done if the heaps are not covered at all. He must not forget the apples. On our farm we are generally picking apples and harvesting beets at the same time. When dry, pick the apples; while the dew is on gather the beets or pick up the windfalls. As a rule, many farmers gather their winter apples too early. So at least the buyers tell us-but then they have not to run the risk of high wind blowing off the fruit Greenings should be picked be- fore the Baldwins and the Northern Spies and Russets last We usually let the cider apples hang as long as they will, or until the buyers want them. Autumn pears should be gathered as soon as the stems, when the pears are lifted, part readily from the branches; win ter pears are rarely allowed to re- main hanging on the trees too long.
 Cucumbers for pickles should be picked at least twice week as long as they last, and as soon as they are large enough. Make sure of enough for your own use. Some morning you will wake up and find the cucumber pickle busi- ness ended for this year. Winter squashes can remain out as long as the fruit is covered with leaves.
 Onions, if you are unfortunate enough to have any still in the gro und, should be pulled and dried on the land in the field, or spread out on a floor.
 After these crops are attended to, we can suit our own convenience as to whether we shall first dig potatoes, husk corn, or pull carrots. It is a question of weather, convenience and condition of the land or marketing the crop. He is a fortunate farmer who keeps up with his work at this season. Turnips and cabbages stand quite freezing. Celery, earthed up, is rarely injured before Thanksgiving. dgricuifur- ist for October.
 TIE FRUIT GARDEN. - Blackberries and raspberries start very early, fall planting is preferable. The tips of black-caps that touch the ground should be held in place by little earth. To propagate from root cuttings, cut the roots Into peices two or three inches long, and place in box with alternate layers of roots and soil. Bury tho bon in dry place, below reach of frost After the currant and gooseberry leave' fall, prune. Make cuttings of last sum mer's growth, and plant at once--K KeeT strawberry beds clear of weeds, cut of runners from those planted last sumner and cover the soil with straw.
 Son. FOR A NuRsERY.--As a rule, tho soil of a nursery ought to be about eighteen inches deep, but all trees do not require the same depth. For in- stance, the pear tree sends 1t roots down ward more than outward, hence it re. auires deep soil. Nursery trees are sue. cessfully grown on common farming land properly prepared by blowing, etc. A soil of medium texture is, on the whole, most advantageous for general purposes. For fruit nursery 1t is i'm. perative that the soil be well drained.
 How TO MANAGE FODDER. Il have tried the following plan for five year and have had no trouble with my fod der; Itake four poles, place them three and a half to four feet apart; begin al the same end every time to lay the fod. der. I lay the bundles, the first layer, about to the bands, crosswise on the poles, then one layer right on the cen ire, same way, reversing every other bundle. The second layer l do not lay quite to the band, and put a layer along the centre every time for five oi six layers. When top out l put TOW of bundles right in the centre length. wise, then put another layer on top oi these, setting them mp pretty straight and bending the tops down over the lengthwise bundles. I take off tho same end where quit laying the fod der.-L T. R.