St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-11-15
A PHILOSOPHERS on DRESS.


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Hour CIer0vnsen, Doctors, Lawyers, Sports,
actors, aud Politicians Array Them
sefres.
There are always certain classes Of men
who have styles Of their own. They pay lit
tie attention to the latest fashions except to
modify them into the direction OF their own
ideas. "This habit, sir, 4" said the tailor, with
dignity, 81 regard as the consummate flower
Of high civilization. 1t gives the individual
a marked character. II distinguishes him
from the herd. To the civilian his garments
are as much an evidence of the calling-to
one who can read the sIgns-as his uniform
TO soldier or his livery 10 footman. There
are clergymen, for instance. Who can mis-
take one, even though be doesn't affect the
clerical cut, which he ought to, by the byel
] cut for numoe OF preates, and tell you,
SIR. they have got to wear coat with straight
collar and vest that buttons around the
neck-Church Of England costume, sir, or
none at all from nv establishment"
''But how" inquired the reporter, ''are
you 10 distinguish the doctor and the law
yers''
''Only a novice would ask that question
Physicians in good practice-and, of course,
have none other among nay customers
are the most particular OF men. Take q
Madison avenue practitioner as an example,
and he's the ideal doctor for you Large
stout, not TO say a trine fiabby, and wearing
belt, carries himself well, great dignity, i'm
mense pomp. He dresses always In fine
black diagonals, with rich, black kersey top
coat, and alt must fit him without a wrinkle.
RnmQfimaE 10 funnlorac in a 10
vest, and the biz bunch Of seals be DANCES
at his fob sets nf the neatest stomach 10 fit in
the world. In hat, gloves, aud boots he is
unexceptional and extravagant His scarfs
are the richest, his linen and cambria the
finest He wears three diamond studs, no
other jewelry but the seals. Well, sir, he's
an impressive spectacle, rich, neat, elegant,
finished, and more pleasing 20 the eyes OF a
rich woman than dollhouse flowers.
''But lawyers, pshawl They're the worst
dressers in rhe world, il they amount 10 any
thing. Want something black, aud take the
first goods that come 10 hsnd. Never want a
new suit till their old ones gets dsgracefully
shabby or falls TO pieces entirely. Boots gen.
orally look well, for they like warm feet and
LAY big prices. But hats shocking The
worst tiles in this town are partly distributed
on the heads Of our most eminent lawyers.
You can hardly get them TO come here aud
try on a suit, but must send 1t on the chance
of lifting. They'll always take it, don't care
how ii looks, IL it goes on easily. Bnt, bles.
you, that isn't what true artist wants. Bic
lawyers have paid me high prices for suit:
that when / saw on them sent shivei
through me. Such garments would give any
establishment but mine bad name.
"Auotber class who dress characterisiical-
ly," continued the tailor garrulonsly, ''sre
men Of business. They want a dozen
coats and and as many trousers and waist
coats and the like, in multitudes, after the
latest fashion. Yet your true man OF fash
ion is no dude. He is never pronounced
aud naver has on shining new clothes. It's
the general effect-the elegance that comes
only with long experience or a careful valet
that shows, and II Is what the mere dude
can never catch on 10. The dudes and al
the noodles who merely copy the most ex-
travagant fashions, while they are our best
paying-cu stomers, don't compel our admira.
ton It's the man who knows his style and
dresses up to ii who is the true dresser.
"Of course, even you can always recog
nize the sporting man. He is a species with
divers classes. The racing man dresses diff
erently from the yachting man. The dog
fancier has salient peculiarities unlike those
Il VI AuC uolSC
who looks upon sports of all sorts as simpl,
opportunities for book ma king, has style
all his own. But they differe n tate in some
things-lrinkets, line n, and the like. They
are all fond of high colors and unique pat
terms. Their abundant jewelry is apt TO b,
in the form Of pugs' heads or racing insg
mia. Most have a weakness for bell crowned
hats, yellow stitched gloves, and pointed
shoes. Their canes remind you of the nech
and head OF stork, with the long bill on
the top. They are a knowing crowd mostly,
but about dress they are as innocent as ba-
bies.
''Closelv allied to sporting men are actors
from tailor's point of view. But there:
wide difference essentially. The sporting
man wants 10 dazzle you; the actor TO i'm
press and overcome you. The sporting mar
will distribute his msgnificence all over him
the actor relies on some such concentrated
! effect as sealskiu coat or a low-cut shirt
collar and wide brimmed hat. He wants his
clothes cut, not to fit him, but 10 drape him,
and he arranges himself in attitudes favor
rble TO classic folds. Actors are liberal Gus
toners when they have money. But poll
ticians stand high with us. They are the fell
lows for new clothesl They want everything
sleek and shiny, spick and span, and brand
new. They are the best tailors, blocks, too,
and afford more pleasure to a true artists
eye than the merely elegant fellow who dis
tracts attention from his clothes TO himself. ~
New York Star.