Morning journal and courier., 1884-10-27

tipate the origin, introduction and growth of an objectionable fashion it would be found
 that in many instances it was at first favored in desirable form as appropriate for the wearer, and that the adoption of certain style becoming to one lady by another with an entirely different figure renders what may
 be suited to the original wearer simply per
 version of style as seen upon form for which no artist in dress would have dared to
 design 1t.
 The tight sleeves of last season illustrate
 this The sleeve comfortably fitted to the
 well shaped arm of stout woman assumed
 other proportions and failed in effect when tightly drawn over the thin arm of an angu- lar person, and, furthermore, became posi- lively injurious, interfering with the free cir
 culation of the blood, causing the wearer to have red hands, and often red nose, to say nothing of the uncomfortable sensation so sure to follow construction of any portion of the body.
 Just here it may be noticed that shoulder
 seams are even shorter than ever, so that the entire shaping of the round portion is defined in the sleeve, which it is necessary to fit as waist, for persons having the same bust measure often differ in the height of their shoulders or the length of their arms. As both comfort and appearance demand that the elbow of the sleeve shall come in the right place, it is best always to cut lining a little longer, both at the top and bottom, than is necessary; try it on at the same time with garment, fit the elbow at the proper place and then arrange the other parts to suit.
 The back of a fashionable corsage is cut the width of the form and the front is by no means contracted, the full bust being the style not particle of contraction being al lowed anywhere, not even in the lower DOT tion of the waist, which is curved to fit, but | not to confne the form.
 Madame Demorest, in this seasons What l to Wear, gives some valuable hints in regard to fitting dresses. She says when a person 1 has very full bust and slender waist the fit may be much improved by turning the front | seams in deeper at the waist line and above ! the bust. This should be done when the gar l ment is being tried on.
 1 If there is seam down the middle of the back of the waist of polonaise and it is de sirable to avoid one down the middle of the back of the skirt, It can be done by laying the edge of the pattern for the back part of the skirt to 8 fold of the goods. The same rule applies to basque that has a pleated polonaise.
 A seam in the middle of the back of the waist of any garment is great improvement and gives rounder effect to the figure. When
 person is very hollow in the back the fit of
 the garment may frequently be improved by
 taking this seam in little closer at the waist
 line. All basques, polonaise and princess
 dresses are now cut with side gores under the
 arms, as the cross seams at the waist line,
 for giving the necessary spring over the hips
 are thus avoided and longer effect is given
 to the waist
 Corsages are cut rather high in the neck
 and nearly all are finished with the band or standing color of either the suit fabric or
 the material used for trimming.
 In skirts there are some marked changes; true the walking skirts just escaped touching the ground as in past seasonf, but there is greater fullness allowed in the back for the
 tournure, which is generally accepted. The
 taains of reception dress skirts are very long,
 the demi- -trrin being ignored, because it has not the style of the long train and is al
 ways in the way, either in walking or dan
 cing. Newer fashion favors the very short
 skirt and the very long train only.
 The most artistic point of fashionable
 dressmaking lies in the arrangement of the
 drapery. Shirrs, puffs and gathers are all
 accepted, but the en regal results are those
 attained by accident, the fabric being allowed
 to fall over figure, and the goods secured
 in the natural folds. Massed effects are sometimes seen, but perpendicular folds are far moro popular.
 Tueks show wonderfully well in the sty- fish cloths used for fall costumes and in
 elegant dresses of satin and velvet; the or
 namentation consisting of panels in odd
 embossed velvets with festoons and curi-
 ous decorations formed of Passementerie,
 gold and silver cord and chenille.