The Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1877-1885, 1884-05-02


ton to the new rule is in the use of the
pretty marabout aigrettes, which are
still placed a tritie toward the left side,
but are by no means as low as they for
merly were For this high trimming
there are clusters Of loops andforked ends
of velvet ribbon arranged in most care
less fashion, not in set bow or roSette,
but in irregular loops that often serve
to hold few flowers, in aigrette, or
small bunch of ostrich tips. The special
novelties for ornamenting these velvet
clusters are large butterflies of velvet,
or Grape, or beads, or of fine bits of
feathers of every color in the pGpi}I0n.
Six large butterflies are sometimes seen
on one small bonnet, but one or two are
more often used. Clusters of mush-
rooms of two or three shades, from
cream white to dark brown, are seen on
French bOnnets, and are very natural
looking. Natural grasses are punched
together and preserved in clusters with
their long stems, or else the top OF the
grass is used to tip marahout feathers.
Among odd novelties for garniture are
lunches of laay-appies, OF English wal
nuts, gooseberrieS. cheStnutS, cuTants.
plums, thistlcs, acorns and pine cones
The ribbons used are put on in stiff and
rather prim ways that do not add to the
size of the bonnet, except i'll the arrange
ment of rosettes on top; for instance,
velvet, ottoman, or satin ribbon two
inches wide is most used for Strings. and
this is folded double. attached to each
side of the lower end of the crown. then
carried upward and down again, form
ing an inverted Y ON each side of the
bonnet; and falling below as strings.
Another fashion is that of putting the
ribbon double across the lower part OF
the crown, strapping it there with an
other bit OF ribbon, or else passing it
under few Of the straw braids Of the
| crown, then carrying it along the sides
to the ears. where it forms strings.
There are also honnets with the ribbon
beginning Just under the mass of trim
ming on top, and after being doubled
| passing down each edge Of the crown,
and thence bordering the sides on their
! lowest edges, where fanciful gilt or jet
| or silver ornaments are introduced to
hold the strings. These simple trim
mings are very easily pat on, and it will
be seen that the large ornamental
cluster on top is not intertered with by
| them, and this cluster oOften consists of
flowers, feathers, or butterflies bought
ready made, that it will not be diff
| cult matter to trim bOnnetS at home
| For the latter reason straw hOnnets Will
| not lose favor. notwithstanding the in
| PRODUCTION of numbers of bOnnctS made
up of fancy materials. For the inter
mediate season the lace and jet bonnets,
| and those of velvet also, are trimmed
| with bright red or yellow velvet ribbon
in the ways Just described, and butter
| fly on a spiral stem that makes it seem
to hutter all the while is placed amid
| the velvet loops, OF there are colOred
| standing feathers forming 4 thick
aigrette Gildrd feathers are TO be very
largely used, and are especially pretty
in short CLOSELY rurled clusters Of ostrich
tips. Gilt and Jet beads are also com
| bincd even more than they have been
during the winter Beaded tulie, both
black and colored. will be used fOI
entire bOnnets made over the gildcd
wire foundations that have very few
wires, being placed ut least an incl
apart; this light foundation is very eN-
cellent when abundance Of heavy Jet
and of thick velvet must be used tol
summer bonnets,
, Matching the bonnet to the costume
will continue in fashion, and will be al
easy matter, owing to the varictA.sn ia
. brics that are used, and to the eHT1Ilen
colors of straw braidS. Indeed, there
is such latitude in the Use of materials
t. that miliinerS say a bit Of the dress o
the wearrr is now brought them to BE-
e put into the bonnet in some way, eithe
as 4 crown or roSctte, or as putflngS OF
the brim. A new shape for these sof
crowns has them straight across the top
with right-angled square corners thi
crown is quite high, and will be excel
lent for holding the high coitl'ures nov
. worn. The preference in straw bon
nets will doubtless be given TO tn
n mushroom coIors, which, as we hay
. | said vary from cream to dark brown
e as kindred shades of ecTu and beige al
C ways find favor in the spring. 1t is nc
now necessary thai the bonnet be all {
one color. As contrasts are very stylish
50 that the main part of the bonnet ma
be made of any of the brown shade.
whether or not they are becoming, an
the front trimmings are then chosen
the bright gay coYllciicOt red, on OF dar
n maroon velvet, Of gilt braid in man
loops. OF else of flowers OF a fayOrlt
color, or that best suits the Wearer
complcxious; indeed, the greater nun
Der OF bonncts have the brim or its frol
edged entirely different from the crow
in color. Young ladies who are cleyt
enough to make their own bonnets coyt
the crown Of small frame with crap
surah. or even fine soft wool good
gathered in narrow tucks straight aero
N the crown, OF on wires in pnifs arouT
a, the crown, and then put some lappn
es pufls of velvet over the brim; an aigret
of marabout feathers, or q roSette
doubled velvet or satin. completes Il
t. bonnet, and the strings are of the We
vet cut bias and tied III q large boy
It Later in the season the strings will be
8. wider Grape, tulle, or embroidered ne
and many OF these will be trimm'
across the ends, as, for instance, mus
room-colored Grape will have two fri
: Of the same caught together to form
re tassel, in which rests little bow
OF shrimp pink uncut velvet ribbon,
,es strings of black net with lace ruff
=, 90 Will De held by q small bow Of t
H. brightest ye,iow velvet ribbon, or
~, bright poppy rcd,-Harper' rs BaaGr.
nd
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