Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1884-09-18
New York Fashions.
WINTER MILLINERY WOODS ;-vELvETs;
SINS sEPTEMBER NOTES.

A new, small shape in millinery that prob
/ ably will lead, shows sadden, sharp peak
in front. Pokes Of modest dimension. come
next. while conservative and likewise some
stylish souls will cling TO the capote. which
+ this season appears with the familiarity Of
all old friend. Hats are with high pointed
crowns and narrow hrms. In the way Of
material, wha, is not felt is velvet. and
what is not velvet is Eel, the latter often
uncut, forming the chief part of almost all
trimmings, either BY the piece or as velvet
ribbon from two to three inches wide.
Curled velvet ribbon with Astrakan-like
loops with satin or gros grain reverse is
very stylish, and in keeping with rev ideas
in dress goods (of which more hereaftrrl,
while uncut velvet j. also very fashionable.
Lace. either black or gilded. beads. insects
and fancy feathers constitute accessories.
the latter being extremely fancifu. by rea-
son of odd mixtures with small regard 10
the proprieties. Crazy quilt" ideas pre-
vail Just here; heads. wings or breasts
form veritable jumbes, and with bizarre e.
frcis almost supersede the rleg,nce of os-
trch feathers. which are in small demand.
The favorite position for these feather
paichworks is directly in front, and all
trimming is arranged with view 10 height
and narrowness. The small sharp peak in
the shapes frs, mentioned is filed in with
lace or ribbon. and they are intended TO be
worn with the hair dressed high.
MATERIALS.
The large family Of woods are Of unusual
Importance this season. We have many va
rieies Of fancy WOODS with stripes. plaid,
or floral figures, either grave or gay, large
or small while very noticeable on some
dress patterns is bordering Of frise or
looped As,rakan finish. 10 be used for trim
ming. Cloths are in many varieties, bison,
bouretie- bison, where cross-stitches some
times hold down the rough threads in stripes
and bars, rough bourette- bisnns 18th ""-i~'
fIise or Asirakan stripes, and Jersey cloth
with Astrakan finish. 10 be used parts Of
! costumes or jackets for slender people.
kensington cloths are stylishly adorned by
embroideries in that peculiar loose stitch;
others are ornamented by lndia and tapes
try cross-stitches, while persons of quiet
taste can choose ribbed or tricot cloth.
Reps Of all degrees are popular; mohalrs
and alpacas renew long forgotten youth,
! leading up TO poplns with silken simmer
csshmeres have lost nothing by REVEALS Of
sitter goods and are attractive in new solid
/ colors or with additions OF silken embroid-
cred figures in small coque,tish dot. or dot
/ like leaves and flowers.
vELvETs AND SILKS.
J Velvet was scarcely ever SO fashionable,
and is seen with unlooked-for variations,
such as stripes Of contrasting color. over
casting of small hrlgh, flowers, velvet
flowers of longer pile than the surface. or
chine or chanseah!e alterations, while the
frise Or looped velvet l. markedly novel. OF
course these sensations will be carefully en-
plo,ed and subordinate TO the plain velvet,
but for closks, we find large selfcolored
floral and other patterns will be largely used,
and uncut velvet as well both employed
also for costumes, but in especial demand
as cloakings. The success Of velveteen is
also assured, and when really good, as in
case Of the peerless Nonparei. it will be
] ,f. -,
both wesrer and beholder. Here the latest
thoughts are noticeable; colors are distin-
gushed while novelties in weaving give
room for great choice. Silks take on new
colors prevailing ever,u here, such as gold
en- brown, blue and red prune, bronze, gray
blue and moss, in brocades especially, Civ
ing proof of how much can be doLe by COM
binations. Stearn's American brocades
are especially beautiful, the patterns rich.
while in durability they surpass imported
fabrics. The American silk industry has
indeed reached surprising proportions
foreigners dread its power and look appre-
hensively on the increasing popularity Of
our manufactures. particularly where such
a brand as the one just mentioned COM
mends itself each year more and more, be-
coming really household word. Stearns
American surahs are this year likewise
quite up to the usual standard-el elegant,
durable, fast-colored and stylish, they are
sought after by judicious buyers, since un-
der the severest tests they win approval.
SEPTEMBER NOTES
Rows of tinsel balls around the lower
edge of wool skirts are stylish: tinsel braid
in bars is set on in the same way or other
wise.-Jerseys and Jersey cloths are
brought out with thick. Aeecy lining that
, will render them warm for winter-Vel.
; vet from the piece or velvet ribbon is q
fashionable trimming for all kinds of ma.
terial, and Hercules braid for woolens 81
well.-Embroidery is a marked feature
: in millinery, as where velvet crown is GOV.
cred by silken flowers. high felt crown Oh
brim interlaced by stitchings, etc.; in the
latter case the colors are uniform, but the
tao examples are only some Of the man.
ways in which embroidery is seen.