Morning journal and courier., 1884-09-20

| the suburbs containing the graves of Beetho- ! ven and Schubert. I had surmised that one
 or both of these great composers were in tered here, and upon inquiry learned that l the graves were in the Wahring FriedhoH l Accordingly set out to find this cemetery. 1 I took street car labeled Wahring and rode l perhaps two miles. The quality of the city 1 deteriorated as I advanced. At length was | dumped at one of the regular street-car l stations there are iron posts at certain in- | tervals, crowned with engraved tablets, at | which the cars are obliged to come to | halt whether there are passengers waiting | or not), and was left to shift for myself. When I incurred 'FWo ist Wahring Fried
 hoff?' everybody pointed certain way, and \ I accordingly tramped on in that general direction. The streets were crooked and | the labyrinth of street-car tracks bewildered me. At last I was rewarded by glimpse of evergreens over tall board fence, and | street urchin informed me that that was | the place. Breathlessly eager I entered the gate Gravelled walks, plain but tastily arranged parterres of flowers, modest tomb stones-but could not wait; I must ask where were the two graves for which Twas l searching. "Oh, they are in another Wan ring Friedhoff," !" answered the man in Ger man, in reply to my impetuous question. 1 That was 8 damper; but undiscouraged l started off in the direction which he indi- cated. I wandered aimlessly for several ! blocks, when I ran across Hungarian in
  fish indiferently well-a rare accomplish ment in Vienna. He was in the naval ser vice and had picked up his English in Aus 1 tralia. He at once volunteered to set me right and conducted me circuitously through 6 maze of streets to-the rear of the same cemetery from which I had just come! Then we set out in good earnest to ind the real cemetery together, which we dd Ill perhaps fifteen minutes. The entrance was elevated above the street which 1t faced, | and was approached by semi-circular as cending drive. It was a small cemetery, surrounded by brick wall which hid the interior from view. Over the arched en- trance I deeiphered the legend, "Deine au- ferstehung die staerke unserer Hofnung." It was an old-fashioned graveyard, with walks laid out at right angles and few pre- tentious monuments. Expresses, arbor vltse and small shrubs were about the only veg citation in the place. We found the two graves easily, close to the left wall Each consisted of an enclosure about five feet wide
 and twelve feet long, around which ran an iron fence. There was one such enclosure
 between the two The bottom of each en- ]
 closure was stone, upon which rested many l
 pots of towering and foliage plants, petuni-
 as, geraniums, fuchsias, colens and m1gno- |
 nettes. The monuments were as plain as
 any about them. The first shaft of
 stone perhaps five feet tall resting upon a
 pedestal of the same material. Near the l
 top of the shaft gilded snake, hooped |
 like a wreath, in the center of which was a |
 butterfly. plead guilty to ignorance touch |
 ing the special significance of this strange |
 emblem. Below was gilded harp. On the |
 base deep gilded letters graved into the stone l
 spelled the one word Beethoven"
 The other monument was in the shape of | small, severely plain Greek shrine. The ma
 terial looked like stone but it felt and 1 sounded like common wood. In the center
 was bronze bust representing youthful,
 e,a e1,o
 der the ears. It was most winning face,
 one that made you long to know its proprie ] tor. Alas, that face was just young and | animated when death sealed it away from human eyes forever; and one stops, almost 1 startled, when confronted with the record of | that brief tenure of life. Below the bust | was this inscription: 'fDie Tonkunst begrub | hier einen reichen hesitz, Aber noch Viel | schoenere Hoffnungen. Franz Schubert hegt |
 hier. Geboran am XXI Jaenner, MDCC- |
 XCV1I; Gestorben am XIX Nov. MDCCC- XXVIII 31 Jahre alt"
 Silk badges and gar1ands of flowers hung
 upon both monuments, attesting the peren-
 nial regard in which the great composers are
 held by the choral societies and people of
 Vienna generally. l have learned that leading musical society in the city has under
 taken the work of erecting a grand monu-
 ment in commemoration of Beethoven and Schubert in the Centrale Friedhof, whither the remains are about to be removed. The Centrale Friedhof is the main cemetery of the city It is an immense enclosure, laid out on a scale of great magnifcence and con taining scores of most imposing monuments. It is at Kaiser -Ebersdorf, suburb so remote 1 that you fancy you are never coming to the end as you ride along in a tram-car.
 We also found in the "Orts-F -Friedhof' of
 Wahring the graves of Frank, the celebrated physician, and Grillparzer the poet. In the
 cemetery of Wedding, the poet Lenau is in
 tered. In the cemetery of Matzleinsdorf re-
 pose the remains of the composer Chuck.
 Still another famous composer sleeps the last sleep inside of the Vienna limits, no less
 man than Mozart. I also made pilgrimage to his tomb with infinite pains, though with out the harassing mistakes experienced in | finding the others. It is in the cemetery of St. Marx, out toward the suburb of Simmer ing. It is in an untidy locality where great factories besmudge the atmosphere. The vi cinity has not been much built up, and nu- merous open lots and railway tracks had to be traversed in order to get there. Along one side of the cemetery runs railway track and disused canal. In the opposite direc- tion lie the arsenal and artillery barracks, the largest building which I ever saw, l think The graveyard itself is grass grown, dusty and apparently entirely full of monu- ments for the most part of the plainer kind. When I visited it I was the only person in side, except man who drove watering cart along the various roadways and filled
  huge funnel in the process. The monu- ment proved to be a neat though not cost 1y one, which was erected twenty five years ago. There seems to be some doubt as to the exact spot where the great composers remains were deposited, but this monument dignifes the site as near it can be de- termined from existing data. The burial took place nearly a century ago, you know. | A plat of ground perhaps ten feet square is enclosed by an iron railing, around which is planted fringe of foliage plants nicely trimmed and so disposed as to secure an agreeable blending of colors. This ribbon of foliage ex pands the side which may be reckoned the front, into a semi-circular design-bed, where @ dark cross is traced in a mass of light green. The monument is of grey granite, raised from the ground by sev- eral terraces of the same material and crowned by bronze angel with downcast face, and sorrowful dropping eyes In one hand is roll of music, with the notes .and words of l 'fDies irse' engraved thereon; while in the other are harp and laurel wreath. The figure is seated upon the bronze representa- tion of eight books, typifying the lfe-work of the composer as is evident from the titles on the back, "Don Juan," Figaro" etc. The whole monument cannot be more than twelve feet high. At each corner of the pedestal is a slender bronze vase. Bronze medallions The first contains a relief of the composers head: the second reads, "W. A. Mozart, geboren 27 tanner 1756, gestorben Dezem- Der 1791." The third represents winged female figure, between the imperial coats of arms The fourth reads 'Gewidmet yon- der Stadt Wien, 1859."
 Vienna is, think, more bountifuIly sup piled with public parks than any other city which I ever visited. have visited not less than twenty of these parks and have not be- 1 gun to see them all. Some of these contain hun dreds, and even thousands of acres; while
 IL 4I~o4- .ao. would never have thought it worth while to construct them. The Viennese have a way of tucking little parks in here and there, with defiance of ordinary landscape rules [ that is bewildering. Owing to the peculiar { construction of the city, there are innumer- able "odds and ends"7 which have thus been into tiny fairy lands They are not half 8 block in diameter; and yet while T you step inside, you seem suddenly to have been spirited away into the heart of 8 forest primevaln Then again, as have said, there ,, are really vast parks, where you may row on I't
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