Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-12-23
our EUROPEAN LETTER.
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ssosDsofs ael Seer.
s,,nreiai Corssspoudesee a. ne pispstch.i
roun SEAsoxs HorEL,
MrxscR. November -. iSSh
Ne fffl stuttgart On Thufsdsy morning
= our way 10 Munich, aud at'nrst passed
through { dfar, -IoakirR country with
- vineyards nearly htddea by snow.
xn<r 4 cnuple Of hours ride the snow lay
@reh thicker. che hills became higher and
ros,sAer. pcsks suitable for medirvst cas-
- srpcsrcd snd kept up otIr interest and
neiped us 70 forget how cold u was. TIE
tower Of Stauieneck, though only the
woef uuprttcntious Of fulns. stood threat
erjuxly out against the dull grey SKY,
and further on the rugged remnants
Of the once strong castle OF scnaiie.
usek perhed on what, appeared an
inaccessible height scowied dcnsnce At
The dwSllers In the valleys blow y. the
xsmts seemed 10 have . remarkable IKE
rsss ~ Breakneck when pronounced IN
sisht az the elevated and dangerous posi-
hons occupied by 10Th castles. Soon after
thjs We ssceuded over three hundred feet
IN less than three miles To the plateau 81
sthe Pranke Ain, where the suow was much
thicker than ever, and we discovered u was
almost unbssrably cold. Even after we de-
sctuded to the
VALLEY OF TIE DANUBE
n vss NO warmer, and after passing Ulm,
ne Nat town In Bavaria. lie ioItitlcAIons
snd 0ue gothic cathedral, II grew dark and
thfrr Wss nothing for us TO do but 10 resign
ourselves 10 being amused with shivering Till
tjll ue reached Munich. The Munich peo-
ple have much less serious look than anv
n rmaus Icamc across before. Though the
streets are covered with snow. rapidly turn
ing into slush under the warmth OF the mid
dsy suu, they 20 about with an appear
spre OF lght.heartedness which seems
almost sriyoIity when one remembers they
belong 20 the Father land. Their works Of
s,t and buildings Of the present century are
worthy OF all sympathy and praise. The
wing Of the palace, built by Louis i. be-
tween 1882 and ~, and designed by the ar
cbItect Kleuxe. consists Of an extensive suite
Of rooms, most Of them OF large size and
decorated by artists who hsd genius Tor
the y ork. Aswide marble staircase, WIN
Fix huge moDoiitb columns on the tops leads
10 the rcceptiop-rooms, one OF wMcn u
Ponptisn, and has the light and graceful
figures Characteristic OF that style:of paint
ing.
THE GEMS OF THE SITE.
n one considers uniqueness oil idea ana
Agreeable effect, are the two eard'icoms:
which have about fifty cabiAG portraits OF
The ,eeebrsted beauties OF the time the
palace was built. These portraits range
nom empresses and queens to the daughters
OF plain citizens. and represent every type
Of beauty, and ere inexpressibly fasclna-
ting and worth pilgrimage 10 see. The
most sober and solemn OF whsf-players, u
they played whist there, must surely al
times have had their equilibrium disturbed
nv the sight. The tbrone-room closes the
suite, and from the steps where the chair
Of State Is placed. the whole length OF the
wing, q vista Of 200 feet can be seen. and
twelve statues Of celebrated rtners OF Ba-
yaria stand like warriors who need very
little inducement to descend from their pc
dcs,als and fight their hard-won battles
over again.
IN ONE WING or THE PALACE
are schuorr's frescoes OF the Niebelupgen
Lied. They are forcible creations with the
brush. and recall Wa2ner's operas WILDLY.
and supplement them admirably. Oar
guide, "a cheerful. good.bumored creature
when OF the Nsebelungen, described the
tragic pictures to as In n sepulchr'h aud
awe.struck tone thai sounded very peculiar
In contrast 10 the genial Voice in which he
answered any question pat TO him by the
sightseers.
There are some very fine streets In Ma
mich. The Hall Il the Heroes, q building
with porficoes. statues, ana e, lumns. forms
starting pointer Ludwig street, andfrom
IL can he seen the " hole length as far as the
Gate OF Victory. triumphal arch, erected
to the memory Of Bavarian soldiers. and
similar 10 the one TO Constantine the Great
at Rome. On this street, three quarters OF
q mile long, are two royal palaces, the
library, university, blind asylum. dc.
BYienner, another street. without the regu-
lar and imposing effect OF the Ludwig. has
far more attractive separate buildings.
Wittelsbach Palace.
MEDIEVAL IN DESIGN.
stands back from the street. Its square
court, surrounded by cloisters, Is extreme
ly picturesque-t the color, a deep brownish
red, enhancing the effect and giving it au
air Of being old instead OF this century.
Further on, and spanning the road, The
Propylea. or entrance gateway. OF pure
white stone, supported on Ionic anc Bore
columns, rises majestic and calm. and
flanked by the Glyptothek and exhibition
gallery Of the same material, gives us an In
fight into the classic architecture OF Greece.
We spent one morning. at the Glyptotbek,
the gallery devoted TO sculpture. IL has
an. Ionic facade and handsomely decorated
pedIment. 1t Is admirably well arranged,
and has a room devoted 10 each era in sue
cession, beginning with the Asyrian and
coming down to modern days.
IN THE LAST ROOM
IL N statue Of Paris, by Caudya. beautiful
In the extreme; vesfa, by Teuerani. in
pose and expression ~ Of one bordering
on. Heaven-taught mysteries; and Muse
and Cupid, by Eberbard. conveying exqui-
sits.y the idea Of young mother listening
70 her whispering child.
Though devoted to the fine arts, we did
notforaet 10 taste the renowned Munich
beer. The connoisscuy OF our party pro.
npunced It excellent. hat the rest Of us
failed 20 appreciate IT. One day. for dessert,
nj dinner we had what we should call in
America flrst-rste Observation-Disclosures served
ND hot with cream and sauce, and they
were really not amiss. They are regular
Bayurir.n dish, and were down on the menu
as pappinudelu. MILDRED TRIcKErT.