St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-09-09
THE FASHIONS.

It is doubtful IL there ever has been an
autumn before this when such exquisite
fabrics were offered for the adorning of
women. Not alone in texture, but in the
beauty of construction, in colors, combina-
tons and decorations, are they so bright and
effective as to be almost bewildering. The
richness of many fabrics will preclude their
being used except in the most sparing man
ner; a vest tablier revurs pannels. Among
the things which may be said to have been
in very slight demand last year, but which
will be in great demand this coming season,
are ottoman figures on satin, and are known
as uncut velvet brocsdes. These handsome
| and other heavy materials will be made up
with plain satin, plain reps, and plain uncut
velvets. Plush and rep silks woven together
in stripes, plaids and figures of all shapes,
also long plush in figures upon short plush
back grounds will be worn.
Plain velvets will never lose their place;
they will be used next season by ladies OF
taste and fashion, for entire visiting and
carriage costumes, including shoulder
wraps that will be lined with satin of
the same shade, and decorated with
rich bows of lace and passimenteries OF
harmonizing tint. Cancels hair in combi-
nation is very handsome for both house and
street.
Tailor made suits are not confined to dark
ORPHAN colors, but are made of combination
fabrics and tints.
Irish poplins and velveteens are very fash
ionable. Among the colors for ceremonious
house toilets is mushroom gray that
blends with pale blue, amber, violet, tor
quois, blue, and other delicate tints. Ecru
and lilac are lovely for blending in toilet
There are many new tints, if indeed there
is anything new under the sun, and there
are many of them old friends with new
combination or new name, such as moon
stone, a very pale shade Of blue; delicate
shade of yellow tinged with brown is mar
bonnie honey" by name, is lovely with blue
trimmings.
For evening dresses, beside heavy rich
materials, there will be worn lace webbing,
over satins, surahs, cashmeres, or other
woolens of the same or brighter tints.
Woolens under lace is new departure, but
will be worn because the soft fabrics in wool
fall more gracefully,
China grapes, plain and embroidered, East
India silks, in white, cream white,
and colors, and all oriental fabrics
will be popular with young ladies who like
artistic draperies for their gowns.
White serge is a very handsome fabric
for informal evening visiting for young or
young married ladies, and may be worn with
an otherwise plain toilet.
Tea gowns are or seem to be almost COW
I 4 st.
ers, brilliant buckles fixed into the ribbons,
and where five O'Clock teas are the rule Of
the house, and gentlemen friends drop in to
take cup and admire the handsome toilet
OF the lady of the house, it would pay, but
unless tea drinking in the afternoon becomes
more general in America, tea gowns will be
in demand only for garden parties and GER
emonious occasions.
The Jersey Is still favorite bodice, and
, comes in shades to match all the new fabrics
, for autumn and winter wear, and are worn
over skirts OF bison cloth, tweed and other
heavy material. They are deliberately
braided, and some of the newest designs
are a close imitation of rich passementeries,
being wrought in close elaborate patterns.
The silk braid work which was so extern
sively used upon last seasons street cos
tunes will remain a favorite trimming for
autumn suits. Many of the cloth dresses
sent over from Paris, made in the severe
regulation tailor fashion, are braided and
embroidered. The Newmarkets and Louis
XIV jackets, which are made with handsome
perfectly ftting waistcoats, which are finished
with rich braiding and in many instances
the knitting which reaches from belt to hem
| &c trifh braid mi rOidarv
The back drapery of these costumes is wholly
untrimmed, but the waistcoat, collar, very
wide pocket flaps and cuffs are each covered
with braiding in a design particularly in
tented for each separate portion.
Chemisetts, plastrons and vests are as
popular as ever, and are made of velvet,
satin, silk or lace. Swiss and tulle saches,
, and frills of lace adorn the necks of dresses,
/ but for travelling, walking and heavy mater
ial costumes, nothing is more elegant than
collar and cuffs of linen.
Silk and lace for mits and gloves have
crowded out kid, and is not at all to be won
dered at, for kid glove is about as uncom-
Portable a covering for the hand
in summer as one could
imagine, and when the silk glove fits well,
,
it in place on the arm, the comfort is great
er, and the effect as good; and coming, as
the silk glove does, in all the lovely tints
and colors suitable for day or evening, their
popularity is not to be wondered at.
White silk jersey mits are often chosen In
preference to white kid gloves for full dress
occasions, and may be worn long enough to
= extend above the elbow and held in place by
ties of ribbon.
/ Velvet bOdices are worn with skirts of all
2 kinds of materials, thick or thin. These,
and also those of ottoman broche, are as
becoming as they are fashionable, and are
found most useful to wear with skirts whose
waists have become soiled or worn. They
: are made in many styles, but the cuirasse
+ and the long pointed basque are the most
generally chosen. Some are closed at the
throat by handsome agrafe, thrown open
| over i chemiset russo or waistcoat of white
}, lace, meeting again at the belt under a clasI
: like the one at the throat. A dressy effect i:
;, produced by cutting the basque at the bottom
: in blocks and basting lace under and letting
it come very full at openings of the blocks
The effect is dressy and very stylish for &
q slender figure.
; Dust cloaks of beige colored alpaca are very
= stylish, and may be worn over very dressy
a toilets, and not crush or wrinkle
them, which is often quite desirable, and the
wirty fabric casts off the dust so readily that
e there is no danger of soiling the most deli
/. cate costume.
II It is only q repetition to write