Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1884-10-18
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for The Herald By Leone
HINTS ABOUT FALL CosTUaIEs.

HINTS ABOUT FALL COSTUMES.
There is arevival ofwiry and trough
English serges, woven in broad dia-
gonal lines, and they are more es-
pecially uscd in dark blue shades
and poppy red for youthful looking
suits.
Poppy red velvet is added in blue
costumes, and it is noticeable now In
modiste's rooms, that the blue cloth
dresses rival those of brown shades.
Next these in number and popularity
are the bronze and dahlia costumes.
The fine broadcloth dresses are CON-
bined with plain velvet or newer
still with the frise velvet that have
curled figures on a repped ground.
The corduroy velvets in fine lines
and uncut velvets are also employed
in conjunction with plain or with
rough cloth.
English tailors are also returning
to the genuine Scotch tartans. es-
pecially those with blue and green
plaids, using them as draperies of
blue serge dresses, and as overdress-
es above red skirts Of coquelicot red,
Navy blue or the Hemlock green so
popular in winter cloths; when a
very rich cloth costume is desired,
the skirt is made of velvet, and may
be quite plain or else hordered with
fur, and the basque has then a fur
collar and cuffs. Overskirt is UNI
trimmed, depending for its style and
beauty upon the arrangement of the
drapery.
NEW AND VARIED ARRANGEMENT
OF VESTS.
The newest vests for cloth dresses
extend the whole length OF the front,
have two points, two darts each side
and small pocket flaps; they are al
so seen an inch below the collar IN
the back of the basque.
A special novelty in such vests is
to cut out a square Of four or five
inches just below the high standing
collar and fill this in with cravat
knot of satin or OF velvet.
A narrow revers of cloth taperiag
still narrower at the waist line flu
ishes the front edge Of the basque
that fastens on such vest.
A second popular shape for vests
is the Breton, of a single piece, with
a row of buttons down each side
This is now cut to point at the
waist line, and should be sewed to
one side of the basque and Tapped
over across the buttoned front of the
lining. 1t is very stylish to make
this of the basket woven cloth.
THE DOUBLE VEST
is third style and in vogue and
bids fair to out rival the others
This has two vests, of which only
the inner one meets, and this is of "a
lighter shade of cloth than the outer
vest. The edges of both vests have
rows Of stitching and the inner vest
after being fastened by hooks and
eyes, has straps of cloth across it.
Still another design has the vest
closed and made ofmany cloth strips
of velvet and cloth each pinked in
points to lap upon the row below it,
and made of contrasting colors, such
as golden brown velvet and Navy
blue cloth. This is liked for direc-
torie basques, with wide revers col
lar in side from the dart tops and
around the back.
The Swiss girdle sometimes takes
the place of vests on young ladies'
dresses, and is made to point up high
in the middle of the front and curve
down to the width of belt on the
sides. This belt is of different ma
terial from the dress, aud may be
made of velvet or of frise figured
faille on cloth basques.
COLLARS.
The standing collars are of the
material of the vest usually, and the
turned over collar of that of the has.
que.
The most stylish collars are now
very high, as high as the wearer's
neck and inclination will permit,and
are fastened by two hooks and loops,
NOT merely by one. as narrower
collars are.
DRAPERIEs.
Low draperies still prevail on wool
dresses, and are liked not only for
their gracefulness, but because they
are economical, as two breadths of
double width stuff can be made to
go further in these draperies than in
any other way.
The open front draperies are used
for both plain and rich dresses with
excellent effect, and one Of the ia.
vorite styles is to put a straight band
of velvet down the middle of the
front and back of the lower skirt and
drape the overskirt to fall in deep
points at each side of these bands.
From Lord & Taylor's and Stern
Bros, New York city.