Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-11-14
WHAT TO WEAR.
DRKss GOoDs PoR TIE LADIES.
A Batch or fssbien Gossip Rspssa Fae
ries-New wooilep 8eods-Piain "iaser
Drtsses, &c.

| A Batch or Fgsbien COSBY Rtpeeo SsS
| ries-New wooilen 8oods- Plain WiaseI
! Dresses. &c.
Harrcr's Bdzar In its current issue says:
| Repped fabrics are largcIy used IN imported
| eostum es. and are shown here principally
! m three materials viz, sicilisnne. rros-
| grain, aud Irish popliD. The SieiIieane y
| SILKY and soft, alike on both sides, Grapes
| beautifully, aud IL now shown IN the
single Widths that cut simultaneously
| for dresses. IL cones In all the dark
/ rich colcrs, and may be combined with
velvet or else used for the entire dress,
| with fintoraie embrolderies wrorgh. on
| tie material or else applied Tor the trim
mirc. The plum and dahlia shades are
particularly sfvlish in Sicilienne dresses,
| and black dresses Of this material are very
elegant. and are liked more especially by
| elderly LADIES. Gros grain, flille. Ben
gaIine. and Viclorienne are the pure soft
SILKS so much used by Worth in comjina-
ton with figured or with plain velveLs.
There are elegant black gros grain or iaille
dresses now made with their only orna-
nent pinked flounces OF the material
laid on pinked bands OF velvet. For
instance, the round skirt has The
shoit apron drapery and hong black
drapery OF plain black gr0s grain.
while across the front and side breadrhs
covering the space from the apron down
are three gathered rufilesof the silk pinked
in leaves two inches deep, resting on
straight black velvet three inches wide that
is plnkcd IL similar leaves. The silk basque
has plain position back, but the front has
q pleated vest, with the inner pleats falling
on two pinked velvet bands. This simple
design ~ repeated in all dark silks, aud
affords relief from the elaborate combina-
tions go much used at present. Pym's
IIisb poplins are again in market in all
the stylish shades OF brown. dahli',
and smoky grays, and are also used in
London dresses in bright shades OF poppy
red and in navy blue. The striped poplins
are in great favor abroad, especially in red
with green. blue or brown. and are employ
cd for skirts, with blsque OF the solid
colOred poplm in either the bright or the
dark shade. There are also pretty house
dresses imported in very light shades OF
poplin. such as ecru. fawn, pearl gray or
the palest sky blue. These are made
in the quaint yet simple-looking styles
that young English women have
adopted, with the round waist folded in
front in surplice fashion and gathered %
belt, while the sknt has very long and
graceful drapery that nearly covers the
foundation, requiring only rnche or nar-
row ruflles at the loot; this in the lightest
roiden-brown shades is worn both by bru-
nettes ann blondes. II it il thought suiii.
ciently dressy for IN afternoon reception a
short mantle IL added Of velvet OF the same
shade, and the toque-whlcb partskes both
OF bonnet and turban IN sbape-Is made
With brim OF the velvet and n soft crown
OF tie popllD.
NEW woOLLEE DRESSES.
Some Of the newest woollen dresses for
winter are made Of two kinds Of cloth. to
give variety from the plain cloth tailor
suit. For these the Astrakhan and ffisG
cloths are combined with plain iricotG cloth
or with Diagonal serge. The rough As-
tTakhan cloth Is most used in black, no
matter with what color il is combined, and
serves IN represent the lower skirt. but a.
il is so heavy, IL is usually merely a border
ing on the silk or alpaca foundation skirt.
put on plainly. and deep enOughf0r the top
TO be hidden by the drapery that fails
upon il. This is very handsome with
green cloth pOlOnlise that has lengtiwise
rows Of AstIakhan set upon It in the front
and back below the waist line. and is fin.
ishCd with 4 vest, collar, and cuffs Of this
thick cloth. Dark blue serge il also sly.
lish when draped over black Astrakha1
skirt; IN some cases a band OF the As.
trakhan extends up the middle OF the skirt,
and the drapcIy is attached to this on either
side The frise cloths or wool velvet, are
used on imported suits Of cloth OF the same
color. and are especially handsome in
golden brown shades. Young lIdios use
this new trimming only rs a border at the
foot. having many rows Oi braid above
II pain around ..s Si;:ii;s... taa iiise cloih
then r,apIcars on the basque, bpt not on
the deep d.apcr,. The serTeS that have
woven pattern Of gilt or silver near the
selyCdCe are more popular than aDY other
bOrdcred dress-p pattern. especially with
voting ladies. English tailors make these
with all the Gilt on the basque aud drape-
ry. keeping il away from the lower skirt,
where il il apt to be soled. The details OF
such a dress are full OF suggestions Ior
youthful and stylish suits; the serge is oi
a brown shade, with dasheS Of gil, let in
near one selvedgc, and q small quantity OF
ruby velvet is used TO brighten II.
The foundatiOn-skIrt has a its foot irill
Oi gathered red velvet. straight. three
inches wide, and lined with the serge 10
make it more durable; 10 attach such z
iriIl outside q skirt without a heading. a
fat band Of cloth or OF ribbon an inch wide
is stitched at the top 10 cover the rough
seam Of the gathers. The ruby velvet NAV
be placed down The middle 81 the front
ana back OF The lower skirt. The gil-bor-
dtTed eriyedgc extends down either side OF
the front OF velvet. and the serge is then
turned back to form broad pleats, which
meet two other pleatS coming forward
from the velvet back. and these are
al the top TO fail over the mid
die Of the back, and make very bouf'ant
effect. The short basque has the Gilt boT-
der down each front. with a fold oi red
velvet passing up inside this and around
the high Sllt collar; this fold is an inch
wide, ana meets over The hooks and eyes
Of the front. To give a stiil more iaunty
and youthful effect. small laced cOrselct-
piece is put on the waist below the bust.
and fastened by red silk acing string
through Gilt cycle, holes; this il .ewed in
the second darts, and consists OF two mar.
row pieces Oi the serge, each six or seven |
inches long. with a waa'ebonc IN
each. such dresses are also shown
in green, navy blue, and gray serge. |
and are worn with short jacket ~ the |
same, and a felt rOund-bat the color OF the |
serge, with iOfsadt Of ruby velvet around |
the crown. and some dark wings set in the |
front to rest Ou large loops Of the velvet. |
Another pretty fashion is % have a small |
fclt capote the color OF the serge. trimming |
il in the new way with small pointed wings |
set low on both sides just where the strings |
are sewed on, and to nil the space on Top Of |
the brim between the wings with very
large, fun Alsac!an bow Of velvet. This is
very handsome in seal. brown felt, with
much lighter brown wings on the sides
tipped With gilt, and dark seal-velvet bow
OH top. The wings point upward, but are
placed very close against the bonnet. aud
add nothing 10 it, sizc, as they must be very
small.
Other combination cloth-suitS have rough
bison cloth for the greater part OF lhe dress,
but are accompanied by front snd side
breadths that have bsyaicrr stripes Of As
trakhsn or OF irise cloth across them. There |
are also wiry English serges wiui the front
or the border Of the skirt made IN the new
wool yelvets that have the figures in the !
curlcd loops OF iriss velvet. Side-panels |
covered with rows OF Hercules braid and
already attached when the dyess-pattern ia
bought are also on serses. Embroidered
b,rs. blocks. and snail patterns ATE done |
on soft. rough cloths, for drsperie.. and
some plain, fne wool studs have one edge
cut in very large, deep scaliops, sud
wrought with ereweis OF two or three
coiofs; these are worn over velve, or sici-