The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1884-05-06
TERRAPIN- EATERS.
What n washington Caterer Had to Tell
About the Diamond-Backs.

What washington t"'efer III" y" ~"
About the Diamond-Backs.
washington starI
oTwenty years ago bought terrapin
for az dozen.v said an old caterer to |
star reporter us they sat In a astronomical
discussion the other evening. The dia-
mond-back terrapin stands way ahead OF
ANYTHING else ever devised or created to |
tickle an epicurean's palate. 1t 1t Is the
most delicate and the most expensive dish
that appears on an American table. NO
man who is n good eater would give din
ner-partv without Il. The terrapin and
canyas-back must be on atable that makes
any pretensions to correctness"
.What Is the usual charge for an order
Of terrapin2" asked the scribe.
"a single order? Well. one person or
dering terrapn and nothing else would
have 10 pay about a.. Theterrapin would
he very small, though. Ii would take about
two big terrapn to go on with the rest OF
the bill OF fare for a dinner OF from ten 10
twelve covers, which would make an extra
item of about 80. The demand Is In
creasing. and they are getting more eXpen-
siye every wear. IL used to be peculiarly
a southern dish, but now scarcely north
ern or eastern man comes here that does
not call for terrapin. The best market III
the world for them now is in New orh.
The only trouble il there can't be enough
had TO supply the demand. The appetlte
for them is increasing so that they arc ali
being eaten up, and there's always call
for more. There is only one recognized
wav OF preparing them for the table, ana
that is i'm a stew; but | make them INTO
battles sometimes, and they are very much
sought by epicureans."
"Where do they come fromE 7" asked the
Star.
MANY of those sold in the New York
markets are caught In the Delaware bay.
Numbers are caught around that locality,
and most persons could not tell them from
those caught in the Chesapeake. But the
best terrapin found in the world-the only
kind the real epicurean will haye-are
caught right at the mouth OF the Potomac,
and now here else. These bring the high
est price in the market, and the taste OF one
/ brings delight to the heart OF good eater
/ They are very scarce and nara 10
get. though. They are caught one at
| n time, and the Oyster-boats bring TO
/ the market sometimes two dozen, some
/ times only Il dozen, or half dozen,
or even only one single terrapin. They
/ are wilder and harder To get I'm the sum-
mer. They are caught then only by Usher
men. while seining for fish. Every time
/ they get one it is prize. and they put hlm
| in pound TIL they get more. In the Iall
| tbev are fat and are easier to catch. In
September they stop feeding, and sink INTO
the mud. The fishers then rake for them
/ with tOngs. digging deep into the bottom
of the river and along the shore for them.
/ At this time they are fat, and stay SO all
winter If they are not disturbed; but II
| they get frightened out OF their beds and
/ crawl about much they scratch their bellies,
which worries them and makes them tho.
1.-THE terrapin is entirely an American
dish" he continued, leaning back in bis
chair with mcditatVc air, and it is more
particularly 4 Washington dish. When
people come here they always want terra
/ pin. II used to be more so than
/ II is now. II used to be that
people would come here to get terrl-
pin. but now they have become known
better in other cities than they were years
ago. Statesmen and politicians have often
settled their difficulties over good terra
hin stew. Outside OF America the dish is
not known, and foreign ministers coming
here nearly always become passonately
/ fond Of If. When Reyerdy Johnson was
sent rs Minister to England, shortly after
/ the close OF the war, upon the very delicate
mission OF settling the difficulties arising
/ from Englnd's sympathy with the South,
| Mr.. Wormley went with him, taking sew
/ eral dozen terrapin a. presents to the court
/ dignitarieS. and they did good diplomatic
service.
/ "Drlmmond. when he was British Mn
/ lister here. was one OF the best eaters ever
I knew" said the caterer, land was pas
sionatcly fond OF terrapin. VI. de PoteStad
is very fond OF terrapin. sam Ward, the
lObby-king, who is now in Europe, could
/ tell a terrapin caught in the mouth OF the
/ Potomac, and was tip-top liver EX-Secre-
tary EyartS, eX.Secretary Robson, the
| Hon. Bcv. Tucker, and Walter Dayidgeare
great epicureS. SO were Representative
Hooper and Robert Ould, who was District
Attorney after Barton Key. Charles SUM-
ner knew good dinner. guess, aS well
as any man living. Oh, there are lots OF
them could name. 1t used to be that GER
tain men were distinguished for their love
Of the terrdpin, but now that taste il be-
coming universal. The Potomac diamond
backs bring such good prices that the pe0-
pie along the Easton Shore OF Maryland
and Virginia are breeding them"