The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-04-15
A THRILLING EXPERIENCE.
The Perils of Crossing the Bar at the Mouth
of the DOurO.

Letter in New York Times.
The DourO, swollen by the torrents of the far
of mountains in which it rises, comes rushing
down through the granite gorges of the Trasos
Monies with a fury which, augmented by its
narrow channel and rocky bed, is not to be trl1ed
with. Its current, never less than three miles
an hour, is in some places more than nine, and
the accumulation of rich soil whirled down by it
from the endless vineyards above Oporto suffi-
GENTLY proves its force. That force eliminating
in the mouth of the estuary, and there met and
rebutted in full career by the mighty rush of the
Atlantic produces the formidable bar" perilous
enough at all seasons of the year, but doubly so
IN the stormy months between November and
May, when it is seldom, if ever, wholly free from
rollers.
Perhaps your ill-fortune may so arrange mat
tiers that your steamer arrives off the bar on
stormy day in January which is the most
dangerous month, and Just at the lfebb,
which is the most dangerous state of the tide.
What is to be donel Land. you must, for the
weather being what it is, the steamer may have
to lie outside till tomorrow, or possibly even the
day after. But how are you to get ashorel No
ships boat can live in such sea, and the cap
tain, who is bit of a wag in his own rough
hewn way, ironically advises you TO swim ashore
astride of your portmanteau. But at that mo-
ment there is shout of ''Catraia, catraia!"
and, glancing over the quarter, you the
catraia herself a queer-looling native boat,
steered by tall, sallow man in threadbare
blue jacket, measled with shabby gold lace, who
keeps up perpetual shouting and swearing at
the eight gaunt, black haired, piratical fellows
in striped shirts that form his crew. She runs
alongside and in you tumble as best you may,
for the graceful bark keeps bobbing about like
the hoat of fishing line After you come three
or four other Victims whose anxiety as to their
chances of capsizing on the bar is but little re
heved by the captains parting assurance that
the bodies of the whole party shall be deeently
buried as soon as they float ashore.
At first starting you find the sea Unexpectedly
and almost ominOusly smooth, the mass of water
which is carrying you onward being so enor-
nous that its motion is hardly felt as yet. As
you near the bar you gradually become aware of
movement like the gentle swaying of gigan-
tic swing. But the motion is so easy that you
never think of connecting it with the idea of dan
ger till your Portuguese coXswain, suddenly
sprnging up in the stern sheets. goads his men
to redoubled efforts in language that certainly
cannot be blamed for lack of vigor 'oull, you
rascals. harder yet, if you love your lives. Pull
away, dogs. pigs, robbers, assassins demons,
sons Of hereticsi pull! pull
+ Looking around in wonder you see the whole
river surg1ng up into one wave, which comes
rushing ON in swift pursuit. a solid wall of dark
water. The men tug at their oars with frantic
energy, while the eoXswains convulsed face,
with its sharp white fangs cleaning. and its
black eyes flashing he shrieks forth curses
and prayers intermingled, looks quite unearthly
But on comes the terrible pursuer in grim 81
lence, which is doubly appalling from its con
taSt with all this furious excitement. And
now It's gloomy shadow is almost over your head
and now you see its mighty crest begin to curl
and break and now comes deafening crash,
and sea and air are all one whirl of boiling FOAM
and the boat is tossed and banged hither and
thlther ill passengers and crew fall over each
other headlong. And then, all in one moment,
the din and turmoil cease as if by magic and
before you lies an expanse of smooth water
above Which the domes and spires of Oporto
rise calmly against a eloudless sky.