Morning journal and courier., 1884-11-19

| Fraud = London Its SIums A ! sunday Visit to the Seven Dfals = hsaAAM&sgate nm Pettfcoat LaRe-Street 1 Cries - Rabies to Rent - A Hang- ing.
 LONDON, Oct. 20.
 To the Editor of the JOURNAL. AND COURIER: A rough and boisterous passage across the British channel from Dieppe, consuming
 four hours and half, brought the desolate white cliffs of old England into view. The country about New Haven is not remarka- ply suspicious preface to the glories of Eng fish civilization, but it is land, and that is the first delighted reflection of the storm tossed traveller. My baggage having been inspected and pronounced free of dynamite 1 went ashore-or, rather, dragged what there was left of mo ashore. I had deposited considerable portion of my anatomy-rnost of my liver and all of one lung-upon the
 crest of the bounding pillows en voyage. My first impression was one of almost childish delight after being once more, after an exile of over year, on soil where English is dominant medium of communication. Although have been in London fortnight already, this impression has not worn off. One cannot understand the precious worth to him of his good mother tongue until con- pelled to forego the use of it on any extended scale for good many months Everywhere go find myself coming the street signs and the posters printed in English-for all the world as if were verdant granger inst turned loose in a city for the first time When l hear someone speak in crowd, I involuntarily start with surprise, wondering fOna oan&& &1,a&o = my native tongue. I pause to watch the children at play, feeling that same thrill of pleasure when I catch intelligible words that l have felt when I would hear an English sentence in the remote corners of Syria, Bull garia, or Egypt. I have learned to love any man who speaks English, no matter how un- principIed he may be. Tho I am snubbed seventy times seven times here, yet will richly enjoy my stay in Great Britain
 A few sniffs of the fresh air on terra firma brought me to myself, and an hour later landed in Brighton. Why has not somebody said that Brighton is fraud, delusion and snare? Perhaps somebody has; but have been living in such outlandish places during the past year that I have lost track of the exposure in case one has been made. Brigh- ton is altogether unworthy of English people, and as place of resort. There is superb beach and a very decent aquarium there; but otherwise the place is quite devoid of lu0 groves ana gardens In which the English so excel are quite want ing. There are not even any hotels such as we in America would pronounce frst-class Brighton is simply London by the Sea-" and that at the most unfavorable season of the year. It passes my comprehension how even the funky population of England can be inveigled into spending these raw autum- nal months at the bleak seaside; yet there the people are, thousands of them bathing and wading in the surf at the present writ ing. The very sight made my teeth chatter. have suspected that the English as a people have colder blood in their veins than we do, for have everywhere witnessed their fond already intimated, is really frst-class, and well improved with piers, bathing wagons, promenades, etc. There is a short electric railway along the beach, and the quay is usually alive with carriages, promenaders, hand-vehicles for invalids, and miniature carriages drawn by goats for the de1ectation of children.
 The FLights O London" were twinkling freely on every hand when our train rolled into the Victoria station that evening. As I was bowled along toward the hotel in a hanson, Icould not help commenting to my self upon the narrowness and irregularities of these chief streets of ''London town, which have centered in them such mighty traffic. have not struck city anywhere with less method to it than has this famed metropolis of the world. Sometimes get so wrought up in waiting for Hull in the traffic in order to enable me to cross Cheapside, or Fleet street, or Ludgate, that I really wish I was the Lord Mayor, with the right to recom- mend vigorous municipal housekeeping I would pluck up these lamp posts which c1ut- ter the streets, scoop away scores of the diff ferent statues which assist in creating these frequent and often frightful blockades- I don't know but what I would now down old St. PauPs itself. I suppose, however, that what has been endured so long can still be endured and will, ad ibitum.
 l was very nearly spoiled one day while attempting to cross in front of the Royal Ex- change. Two of us made a desperate rush into the midst of a seething of cabs and drays immediately after rain. rather think the other fellow got the worst of it, but no hod-carrier was ever worse daubed with mortar than,I was with mud. We stood for a moment on the other side after we had ultimately reached the curbstone, and sur veyed each other ruefullY. At length the matualness of our calamity broke the barriers of reserve. 'FI say that's rough" {" he remarked shaking his head sorrowfu1ly. Mines rather smooth and sticky" re- piled, scraping myself against a 1amp-post. And then we went our separate ways.
 It seems like treason to all the traditions of tourist travel, but have to confess that, as long as have been in London, have not yet visited the Tower, Westminster Abbey, or half the conventional 'Fsights," but have instead devoted myself to the slums. No wonder this city has produced a Charles Dickens. Scarcely anywhere have I been more interested in studying the phases and manifestations of life among third-class hu- manity than in the remote hooks and cor ners of this much visited city. No observ- ing person can fail to find as much to interest him in Billingsgate, the Seven Dials, the New Cut and Middlesex (nee Petticoat) Lane, as in Oxford or Regent streets or Rot ten Row Neither is it likely that the scenes witnessed by any two persons will involve repetition.
 I made a detour on the way to church Sunday morning in order to witness the characteristic spectacles of that untidy local ity known as the Seven Dials. It is one of the peculiar features of this city that you only have to go two or three minutes away from the most important monuments, and you will find yourself in the midst of the direst poverty and squalor. The Seven Dials, a low district comprehended between the ex- tremities of seven converging streets, is ac- cordingly about midway between Charming Cross and the lower end of Oxford street. As passed along the main throughfares I could but comment upon the eminently re- igious aspect of things. This was especial ly refreshing after witnessing the universal dissertation of the Sabbath on the continent. The stores were closed and the streets desert ed Quiet relgned on every hand. Not only were all the theaters bolted and double bar red, but even the perambulating bulletin boards were not to be seen. By the way, am greatly amused on week days by the pro eession of men bearing boards in front of and behind them, upon which are posted advertisements of the various theaters, res taurants and public shows. The business of tramping the streets thus equipped amounts to regular profession here I have often counted between twen- ty and thirty in string, nov ing solennly along, some gaping, some with their hands in their pockets, some staring vaeantly at the passing cabs, some frowsy and dilspidated, some tolerably well-dressed, some 80 old and infrm as to require crutches in order to get along. imagine the poor fellows have society all to themselves, for occasionally see two men meet shake hands and stop for few moments and chat togeth ST. The signs advertising t@The Twins"
 stOur Bache1ors,n t'The Babes,'' Driven from Home" and other more or less appro-
 priate dramas, invest such meetings with an
 added drollery and ridiculousness that is quite
 irresistible.
 The "orderly boys'' are also a novelty as they dash out between teams under the most