Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-11-02
FASHIONS FOR AUTUMN.
TOILETS WORN BY LADIES RE
TURNING FROM ABROAD.

TOILETS WORN BY LADIES RE.
TURNING FROM ABROAD.
Redeem GOwns-A Flower Dress-NeW
Tailor Made Dresses-The Mother
Hubbard GOwn-Garments and Other
JeweIry that Will be WOrn-The Fash
ION in Pearls.
NEW YORK, Oct. Silt is noticed that
the women of wealth and position who
have arrived from abroad wear all black
toilets largely composed of lace and vel
vet. At home their dresses are masses of
black chantilly lace over silk and satin.
For the street long clOaks of brOcaded
velvet also richly trimmed with wide lace.
These, all black toilets, are completed by
charming bOnnets of plush or velvet with
high pointed brim, small square crown,
and curled plumes or aigrettes massed
upon the front and mounted so as to in
crease as much as possible the apparent
height. A golden dagger pierces trans
versely the fUllnes of the crowns, and
that is all the relief TO the rich depth of
the black except the gloves, which are
usually a light tan color and very long
and SOFT in the Bernhard style, which
has superseded all OF @
The most distinguished toilets of all
A4AANlo dAC III DldNhf nulbC anu sulUkG
shades-the latter In two tones. The
piHs and blues have all disappeared even
from the range of evening dress, and the
stone and ecPu shades have taken the
yIaee of gray. The wine-cOlOred and
Lombard browns, the dark green and
bronze shades hold their own for day
wear, but there is constant tendency to
unTs and darken the costume for street
wear and render the contrast with the
deiicacy and daintiness of evening attire
as striking as possible. The shOWlly
dressed woman, whether her garments
are cheap or costly, has become an object
of suspicion, she is so apt to be sham.
There are women who on occasions Will
be magnificent in Jewels and fine raiment,
but this is exceptional, and the effects
this produce are due to the possession Of
family treasures in diamonds and
Iaces, There are other women
considered ''very dressy." perhaps
extravagant, who are really great ecOno-
mists. They understand the whole art OF
making over and putting the "best side
outside" They mount trimming satin at
20 or 50 cents per yard on cotton lining;
their velvet has linen back; they know
the value of their silks for rutfiing, and
nut every inch of lace or embroidery
where it will do the most good. Their
ssget-up'' is always elaborate. The dill
Guilty is they look too much dressed-over-
dressed-because there is so much to cover
I'D. On the other hand, the plainest
dressing in appearance usually costs the
most. Go into any store, and the common
garments will show an excess Of cheap
trimming or the strongest contrasts in
color, while the most expensive will be
quiet, uniform in tone, but soft and fine
in texture and quality, and exquisite in
workmanship.
LADY'S OUTFIT.
1t is rather remarkable that the finest,
most expensive outfit. perhaps, ever re-
ceiVed by the famous ''OrdeT" department
OF Lord Il Taylor should have come from
a lady no longer young, who is not bride
or going to be, but who is extremely
wealthy and fashionable and spends at
least half her time abroad. Whatever
may be said in regard to dresses, and par
ticularly WrapS-and in the latter respect
we are rapidly reaching the point of COM
petition with the best European houses,
both in style and price-it is conceded
that in the making of fine underwear we
can distance all competition. In the out
at alluded TO are two dozen of the finest
night dresses, two dozen pairs of drawers,
and two dozen peculiar waists or corset
covers from which both drawers and short
skirt are suspended. The gowns are made
OF the finest grade of linen with soft fin
ish, and are trimmed exclusively with
nat needlewOrk and minute tucking. No
lace is used, and there are only these re
sources TO draw from, yet the design OF
each one is totally different from the 9TH
er, and the effect of the whole eX-
traOrlinarily beautiful from the masses
OF fine tucking, the charm and
diversity Ofthe newest patterns in exquis-
lite noedlewOrk, and the skill with which
they are arranged. The design of one
formed square on the centre, and half
handkerchief to the foot of the robe, but
for my part l must confess to 4 prefer
euce for the simpler patterns-the straight
and rectangular with their long lines and
characteristic effects. Another feature
worth noting in these gowns is quite novel.
1t consists of button holes made so that
ribbon No. 3, or No. :, can be run through
them, draw the gown into folds, and shape
IL TO the body. These button holes are re-
heated on the sleeves, extending up two
thirds of the distance both upon the back
and the front and drawing them
IN lengthwise upon the lower
arm. OF course they are quite loose and
gathered in at the top. The cOrset-cover
is Il perfectly original garment. 1t is
fitted waist, cut square or round, and
with a very deep 'spring" or shirt, which
covers the hips and descends little below
them. Attached to this, Just below the
waist line, is a second spring or shirt,
uEOn the hem OF winch buttons are SOWn
at regular intervals, from which the
drawers and a short underskirt are sus-
pended. The depth of this attachment
relieves the hips and waist entirely, and
greatly diminishes the length of drawers
and underskirt. The length Of these is
not more than that for a small child. and
the width seems quite out of proportion.
A bridal dress nearing completion de-
serves mention. The train was of thick
satin plated, but otherwise quite plain,
only faced interiOrly with shells of satin
and plaitings Of lace. But the front was
covered with masses of fine Duchesse
lace and exquisite pearl embroidery, and
the pointed bodice was draped down to
points, front and back, with lace bouncing
OF the same marvellous fineness, the falls
from the shoulders forming the sleeves.
An imported dress just received for wear
at a wedding reception is of ivory velvet,
draped up on one side over a pettieOat of
satin, embroidered with silver and garni-
tured with planes and water lilies IN
satin, with hearts Of powdered gold. The
silver embroidery is executed in water
lily pattern, with centres of minute gold
beads. The train and back of the low
bodice are of velvet. the front is OF
embroidered satin. and a decoration
arranged as an order crosses the bodice,
and is fastened upon the left shoulder.
with an ornamental group Of feathers and
water lilies similar 10 that upon the skirt.
The interior facIDgs and knife pleatings