Belmont chronicle. [volume] (St. Clairsville, Ohio) 1855-1973, 1884-04-10
PRACTICAL FARM TOPICS.
Some Garden Hints.

an opportunity IOT CIcdIiuS Oh ebc SOh
of the garden preparatory for ploughing.
burning up the refuse of last years veg
citation. pruning grapevines and trans
planting blackberries, raspberries and
currants. These latter particularly
should not be neglected, as the new
shoots start very early. Do not be in
too great hurry about breaking up the
ground. Nothing can be gained by stir
ring up a cold, wet soil for planting.
In many cases the hard, dry Jumps will
remain throughout the summer, serious
lIy interfering with the cultivation and
growth of the plants. Very deep plough
ing ought never to be permitted in a
plot of ground used solely for gaden
purposes. A garden cannot be kept in
a mellow, fertile state, favorable to q
strong and healthy growth of vegeta-
tiOn where the plough is frequently al
lowed to sink down into the substratum
There is no necessity for deep ploughing
ip garden that has been thoroughly
broken up, and that has received proper
care and culture. Root plants will do
full as well, and surface-growths very
much better where the soil is broken to
a medium depth. Keep every crop free
from weeds and the soil loose in the
early stages of growth. If the soil is
light and sandy elevate the beds for
bests. onions and other vegetables as
little as possible above the general sur
face, and where there is a slope be sure
and shape the beds so that rains will
flow from their surfaces freely without
washing.
Plants by Mail.
The folio wing directions are for the
guidance of those who receive plants by
mail:
Unfold the packages carefully, and
put the moss-bound roots into a pan of
water quite warm to the hand, and let
the roots drink their fill of it. 1t will
not hurt them to soak an hour in the
water, or until it becomes quite cold,
and if the leaves still look little crisp
ed, turn off the cold water and add
warm water. Then take off the moss
careful ly and dip the roots into fine
sand if you only have white sea sand
for securing purposes, wash it through
wo or three waters, in colander or
sieve, and dry it in the oven partly. then
roll the roots in it until they are coated
with it. Plant in good rich compost of
decomposed manure and tive
thirds garden soil, good and rich. and
we'll mixed together. Take small pots
tor small plants. Three inch pots are
large enough for all plants sent by mail.
Put small bit of charcoal or broken
pottery at the bottom and fill one-third
with soil. Press in the roots and fill upl
tightly with the soil. Close planting 81
that is. settling the earth close around
the roots-is needful for success in
planting in pots. as well as in the open
border. Set the plants in the shade for
two or three days, or into we'll prepared
hot bed, and cover them with newspa-
pers. Water freely with watering poi
but if kept in the hODse do not give
enough to sodden and decay them-and
in a week they will have taken root
in their new home and begun to grow,
and when they have entirely recovered
from long journey they can be trans
planted into the border. If they only
come a short distance, however, after
bath and roll in the sand they can be |
planted directly into the border, and
should then be well watered and shaded |
from the hot sun for several days.
Composing Manures.
Will it paw TO compost manures? is a
question which is often asked and fire.
quently discussed at farmers meetings,
out never settled by definite answers or
conclusive arguments. Why? Because
for some purposes it will pay. and for
others it will not pay.
For growing field corn or potatoes, it |
will not pay to compost all of the ma
nurs, but, as rule, it will pay to COM
post enough of it to put a small quantity |
in each hill to start the young corn or
potatoes.
For garden crops it will pay to CON-
post larger proportion of it than for
field crops. The composing of manure
simply advances it toward plant food,
or in other words, it ripens it. At first
thought, it would seem that, under all
circumstances 1t would be best to thus
prepare manure for plant food, bat on
a careful investigation it will be found
that to Offset the advantages, there are
two ways to lose; first, the labor of
composing; second, the loss of the ac'
tion of the escaped gases on the ele'
ments of tho soil. Every careful OBJ
server has noticed the changed condition
of tho soil towhichhas beenappliedg green
nure. La the process of decomPosition,I
the soil is filled with gases which seem
to have the power to tighten it up and
make it in a better condition for plant
growth 1t is believed by seme, that
some bow these gases, in connection
with the soil, change the pure nitrogen
of the air into condition to render it |
available for plant food. Whether or
not this is So is a question yet to be
settled. But one thing is evident, which |
is, when green manure is applied TO the |
soil and well mixed with it, when it gets |
into an active state of decomposition,
the crops grow very rapidly.
When it is desired that plants should
feel the immediate effects of manure. it |
should be. well rotted, but not mixed
with other materials,ex just enough |
to keep it from burning. 1t is, AS a |
rule, waste of labor to compost ma
nure with an equal bulk of loan or
muck better compost it d rectly with
the soil, and thus save labor.
He who is composing his manures
adds more to it than enough to keep it |
from burning, and the gases from esca
ping, does not occupy his time to the
best advantage.-Mass. Ploughman.
Halter Break tho CALVES.
Every bov who has helped to drive
cow to the butchers, or to any other
place where she has no miBd to go, will
appreciate the force of these remarks
il. the Planters Journal:
There are few animals kept on farms
handled much more easily and econom-
icallY for having been trained when