The Delaware ledger. (Newark, Del.) 1879-19??, 1884-01-26

In Europe. III ls tne FAMOUS |
peninsula the southwestern end OF the
archipelago which Xerxes could not get |
around, and across the isthmus of
which he cut canal, the remains Of
which are still to be seen. The noun
tain, rising boldly out of the water, and
visible as the mott prominent object for
many miles round, sends the wind
sweeping down it upon the vessels be-
meath with tremendous force. Now, rs
in the days of Xerxes, it is next to i'm
possible with certain winds for sailing
vessel to double the Cape Of Athos, and
powerful Messageries steamer In
which 1 have recently returned from the
mountain was at one time only able to
make her two knots an hour against the
mountain breeze which sought to drive
her back.
Before the tenth century numbers of
men, tired of the world aud DESTROYS Of
findIng rest from the troubles which
were pouring In on the Empire of the
new home, had established themselves
as hermits on the peninsula, and by the
year 1000 of our era the odor of sane
tity had begun to attach to the noun
tain. From that time to the present it
has been the great seat OF the monas-
teries belonging to the Eastern Church.
These monasteries now constite the old
est, the most populous, and the most
conventual republic in existence. In
the fourteenth century the monks had
obtained privileges from the Emperors
which made them almost independent
Of external control. Virtually they
were then, as they are now, Republic
in larger State, admitting indeed the
suzerainty of Constantinople, but, beng
allowed to govern themselves as they
liked. Half century before the cap
ture of Constantinople by the Turks
they had made their peace with the in
vaders, and in return had obtained
charters or hrmans acknowledging their
right to selt-government and promising
that their ancient privileges should be
respected. These promises have in the
main been fairly kept. At times, the
latest of which was the war for Greek
independence, the Turks have plumber
ed the monasteries, and have hanged
the heads of the houses, Their libra
ries were ransacked, and soldiers cut up
invaluable manuscripts in order to make
water-bottles and cartouche-boxes, such
treasures Of silver and gold as could be
found were stolen, and most of the
monks were expelled. But, barring
these occasional bad times, no com.
plant can fairly be made against the
Turks for their treatment OF the monks
OF the Holy Mountain.
The population of Mount Athos ii
probably between six and seven thou
sand. But the remarkable feature about
this population is that on the whole o.
the peninsula, which may be described
roughly as about thirty miles long by
ten broad, there is not q woman, TX
such an extent is this monkish idea o.
the exclusion of the opposite sex Car
ried, that no female Of any kind dow
even to hen is permitted to enter tn,
peninsula. The rule is enforced will
the utmost strlctness. There is lndeet
story of an ambassadors wife haYinl
visited the monasteries shortly after tn
Crimean war, but she was disguised a
aman. The monks believe, or affect I
believe, that for thus violating the la'
of the mountain she was visited with
severe penalty by the Virgin Mary
The only exception which has bee
made is that Of one or two ladies VIII
have approached the shores with thel
husbands in their yachts in one cas-
on board one Of her Maiesty's ships
have been permitted to land and renal
on the beach while their husbands hay
visited the monasteries.
l have SAID that the Holy Mountain
or rather its institutions, are surgiY
OF the Middle Ages. This remark al
plies to almost everything one sees. NJ
visit there during the last month hi
certainly given me more VIVID lmpre
sion OF much which belongs, say, to IL
thirteenth century than could have bee
gained by a VISIT to any other plac
As there are few travellers, there are ]
hotels, and a visitor has TO be lodg,
aud provided for by the monks. Tn
amply maintain their reputation /
hospitality The Patriarch of Co
stautinople was good enough to fuzni
me with letter to the heads of /
monasteries, which enabled me to q
tam this hospitality. On landing
Daphne, the port Of the Holy Muu
tam, l made my way on the back OF
mule, with thirteenth century sadd
to perhaps the qualItest and M st Gu
Uus thirteenth century village now
existence, This was Karyes, which
the metropolis Of the mountain.
there exists on the peninsula enou
plain to make full-slzed tennis. groul
all that L can say Is, that l have
been fortunate enough to see it, A r
Oh true Roman road, paved with la
stones, which have got misplaced
centuries OF torrents, on a mule ale
mountain passes, is not the easiest '
OF travelling. the mule is an anu
which ignores the existence Of bro
"As obstinate us mule" has for me
a very distinct meaning, The MOI
recognizing facts, have ceased to trou
themselves, and u halter does duty
stead. One of the mules fancles ls
pleasant to a man who has not unbou
cd confidence in his ANIMAL He
insist upon walking on the extreme G
OF the road. Under ordinary circ
stances this does not matter, but W
the preclpice beneath is 200 or 800
deep, and there is no fence, or ate
at a fence, it becomes question of
portance.
However, Karyes was reached.
seat OF government is here. On
peninsula are twenty large monaste
besides considerable numberof SIN
ones, of askItes, word connected
mologically with the English adIe,
ascetic, Of the cells Of hermits, al
smaller houses which are let OIL
monks who wish to engage in ii
the ground. Each of the twenty !
asterIes has q representative who
at Karyes, and the twenty form