New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1884-06-22

red ana some OF Its choicest CaINlhEH III wv '
wcrepicked out with blue and vermilion what glory
would be departed from the nation! Yet IL Is 'n"S
that at Mike the Japanese have dealt with what
they are disposed to regard as their best shrlhcS
During the hcyday of the power of the ShoguhS
the paint was laid on afreSh once in twenty years
Now that the power brOken, and 1t not the pocy
of the present Government to keep ITS memory
green there is hope OF the shrines of Nikko improV
ing as the gaudy coOrs fade and the paint is rubbed
Oft the carvings.
In the afternoon we walked TO the falls of Kiri-
furi, taking wide sweep round the base OF To-
Yama. 1t is in turning from the temples in Nikko,
and looking for moment on the WORKS OF nature
spread around that one feels most augrly impressed
with the vugarty % the painted structures. just
now Nature is putting her richest colors, some
brighter than any which varieeate the temples.
The maple and mountain ash flame blood-rtd
through the woodland and the birch IS running
through all the tints of yellow. The sky Is the
brightest blue the river rushing down to the sea Is
a foaming white; vet all these colors blend in eX-
quiSite harmony aud compose scene to when ono
is glad to tara from the pInchheck grandeur of the
pagan shrineS. The walk to KrI-fur is not far.
even for Il lady. and the kGJO, basket char, which
we took with scarcely used The pathway
turns and winds through scenes of eveT-vaIylng
beauty till suddenly come upon the waterfall, q
!
autumn foliage. Regarded as waterfall it IL not
much. Int it, setting makes it exquisite.
The walk to Chnzcn is somewhat different
affair il being a good sixteen miles there and back,
with some stiii climbing before the mountain lake -
reached The weather looked very doubtful, but
we determined to start doubt being presently
solved by the commencement of downpour OF ram
| which practically lasted through the day. We had
a ka9O and four men, an Indispensable escort for
lady this trip On the outskirts of little village
near Nikko We had the good forum" to purchase
| two waterproOfs, made OF oiled paper a beautiful
yellow in hue They were a little lacking in fit, hut
| not much can lie expected for half "A crown. the
price of the two. They proved invaluable during
the Journey resisting the persistent rain, and add
| ing but two or three ounces to the weight of the
waking costume. The way to the lake leads ny the
winding path which the river has won LOT ;tScll on
| Its way from the lake through the mountains
| Many times we crossed the river by rustic bridges,
pansing to look down at the steel blue water gliding
over gigantic stones and da>hlng itself IN foam at
! their feet. Halfway mp is a farmhouse Tn the
Intel of the dwelling were pasted three charms, one
| for keeping away general Sickness the second
| specially concerned with fever, and the third war
ranted to bring general happiness to the proprietor
| The charm against fever represented devil IN
highly diSlocated state this popularity beng due
not to intention represent tbut TO the fact that
| the picture is produced by drawing brush dipped
| in black pant over Il stamped metal pattern.
every stupid, - to- our gaide, SAID, looking at
this with the clear eyes of believer in the Shinto
| faith "Only very old woincns and men believe III
| that."
| Observations subsequently made over wide cN-
tent OF the interior convinced that in such ease
old womens and men must form the largest proper
ton of the agricultural population of Japanl These
| charms were the rule rather than the exception.
Chnzenii is one OF the most famous show places IN
Japan, attracting natives as well as lore ghers IL
was curious to note that the Japan AIRY has the
| same passion rs his brother from London for
carving his impcrshable name on memorial trees
and stones Only to the uniformed eye Arys
namc traced in japanese characters has respect
able. even an imposing appearance. The last hours
climbing no t. the level OF the lake tests tue
strength of wind and limb; but the four kGg0 men
bearing their burden lightly stepped it, murmurlng
a monotonons chant which, though not musical,
hclpcd them to keep step and in other more occult
WAYS seemed 10 do them good There is Il splendid
view of the lake from the tca-hOusc, and a really
big waterfall to on the way back We saw little
but the rain one CLEAN of sunshine tortuItousIy
opening at turn in the steep descent showing hat
| il might be III her circumstances of weather As
| it was, 1t was we'll worth doing. We saw it IN the
| green leaf and Cheerful ly resolved 10 imagine what
| it would be in the dry.
| After dinner we had the accustomed visit from
the curio men, made the eXigent oil their part
by the knowledge that this was our last night in
! Mike, and if we did not now buy few carved
lvorIes a sword or two, an armful of lacquer box es
| and above ALL that exquisite little cabinet inlad,
lacauercd and ivory-mounted, really not dear az
| 800 they would have no other chance. The cuIo
men are one of the institutions OF foreign travel IN
Japan They live in the places principally resortrd
| to by Europeans and take note OF every fresh ar
rival. ON the afternoon Of the Mikados birthday,
when we unchcl al the British Embassy, the draw
| ing-room was crowded with carlo men who had
heard there guests, and scented business from
! a:ar They entered the house uuinyitcd, but not
unwelcome for there are worse was Of spending
an hour IN the afternoon than in examining the
varied stores of a japanese pcdlcr. They fully
| recognize the Justice OF the understanding that
since no one asked them 10 come there is no COmpu-
| sion of buyinC and they also know by experience
that in the course of the season they get through
! deal of trade. At Mike the curiO men hunt IN
| trplcts The panel of sitting room or bedroom
noisclessly draws back. figure in japanese cos
! tune gliIes in. bow ing low and making that curt
Gus noise OF Sucki NJ III the breath which with the
| IapancSe IS meant TO be at once self-deprcciatory
and cxatatory OF the presence in which he stands.
| The first figure having deposited a bundle on the
7 floor a second gdcs in, aud after due interval
! third timid stranger. unaware of the custom,
and recalling earlier habits OF the japanese in pres
cnce of the foreigner might well suppose his last
hour had come and that these soltly-treadng,
darklv.clad mysterious personages with bundles
were his excCutiOners
It is amatter of honor among curio men, and III
accordance with the polite habits of the people. that
one man shall not interfere with anothers prospects
bv unduIy thrustng his wares under notice. While
ostensibly observing this rule of the three euro
men of Nikko, tall, craity-looking man, who
always secured the central place of the group, had
notable way of pushing his goods While You were
looking at something submitted by No or No. >, a
brown hand holding a piece of carved ivory or