The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1884-05-03
Spring Fashions in Paris.
Gayety-The Rage for Flow
ers-BalI Costumes, Hats, Dress Mate
rials, Walking Costumes.
Correspondence of the Press.)

Correspondence of the Press)
PARIS, April 8.
For time, when complaints rage as to want
of work and general misery, perhaps since
1869 the capital has never witnessed more
brilliant season than the present. Fancy and
ordinary balls are as numerous as chamber
concerts, and the gods know these are pIenti-
full enough. All the theatres are filled with
brilliant audiences the shops that looked so
gloomy are as busy as ant hills, and the fash
ionable dressmakers and milliners never sent
oot so many cards of invitation to come and
view trOussean, corbeille, or a couture and
chapeaux. You must subscribe in advance fos
a dress or bonnet soiree, and ball toilettes re-
sembie the costumes of fairy tales, so much
are they embroidered with pearls and laden
with bouquets of flowers, and cordons, and
garlands Certainly dressmakers must be in
spired with the ballet de Jaeatrs and the cos
tuned fetes of Louis XIV to produce such
marvels of royal and artlstic msgnifcence.
The flowers worn are still natural as well as
artificial. Nice, as usual, contributes to sup
ply the demand. That paradise of flowers
forwards within twenty.four hours boxes of
white lilac. baskets of roses, cases of gardenias,
lily of the valley and tulips, vases and iardi-
nleres OF ornamental green plants. A bouquet
thus obtained represents at least 200 francs.
Ii not Joy forever, it is a thing of beauty
and Love laughs at purses as well as lock-
smiths. Flower trimming varies, following
disposition and style of toilette. There are
fringes of flowers and leaves, and the Dor
traits in the Louvre and Versailles museums
have suggested how to reproduce garlands in
bows on the right shoulder in knots of flowers
sometimes crossing the corsage and going to
rest on the left hip as a large bouquet.
At the recent Presidential ball, magnificent
and luxurious, despite the heat and the crowd.
| remarked the most favorite flowers to be- tea
roses, myOr0tls, fringes of white jasmine lilv
of the valley and sprigs of white lilac There
was trimming in hortensia, generally two rows
OF n0W5fs and foiiag6.- Tbs owaef of one pale
blue satin had garland of acacia rose and
leaves; over the jupe, honey-suckle aud tea
rose; IN hair. branch OF hOney-sucke mixed
up with the chignon and rose near the ear.
There was a sweet head-dress composed of
rare dalses and heath, shading as it were the
back comb. For home tolettes, ladies gener-
ally wear bouquet of mixed flowers on the
shoulder, or arranged in the HAIR, roses and
carnations being preferred.
Tulle of every color is fashionable for ball
dresses young people uDderstood-and orna-
mented with jet, spangles, flowers, &c: the
corsage is in satin and silk to match: rather
short, and the low body is rounded off, Gray
merveilleux satin and pearl embroidery rose
satin, garnet satin and velve straw colored
vogue. The mousquetaire suede glove, color
fawn, predominatea at the ball at the Elysee
Palace. Fans were chiefly in white satin,
frame gilt, initials or crest in diamonds OF
scroll work and the usual number of rogush
Psyches. Gold necklaces were plentiful, with
smaller one OF two rows of fine pearls having
locket appended. One had pretty dove in
diamonds and fine pearls suspended. There
were numerous shaped crosses, any one OF
which jew might kiss or an iDtidel adore.
Where the toilette was black lace or satin,
diamonds were chiefly worn, along with mixed
roses Shoes were of color of toilette and al.
ways embroidered with pearls.
Iho coming hat threatens to be in straw and
the shape round; it is really only kind of
Girondin, with border slightly turned mp. 1t
is styled mushroom" because the cryptic
CANA is included in the trimming, is made in
velvet, and mods in the society of glistening
wild plants. Black straw is in favor but RI
val has appeared, verdigris. The latter has
been adapted Tor shape partakiDg at once of
the "Drectoire" and the 'Mascotte," The
only trimming for this hat is a tulle scarf of
the same color. with an aigrette of tiny flow
ers The latter design is general favorite;
they look SO proud and innocent on their little
stems, appearing in varied and delicate tufts,
peeping out of blades of shining green corn.
The addition of insects sets off the brilliancy of
the trimming; half q dozen butterflies often
hover over a sing lie Aower; better for fashion
to make its hecatombs in insects than in orni-
theology. There is a kind of embroidery made
of gold, verdigris and copper spangles, which
looks very effective on the fronts of the little
capotes. Respecting the tiny flowers above
alluded to, the primrose, cineraire, and chry s.
anthemum OF all shades, and saxifrage, are
preferred. These spring trimmings can be
adapted to lace bonnets equally we'll.
Among the elegant dress materials which
have appeared, are brocades, Genoa vevets
and figured taffetas. Lyons has turned out
hoo ifnl Of ufr oil l.
fruit, flower and bird designs in relief, and of
marked beauty and brilliancy. There are the
wide striped Louis XVI pekins, as we'll as
stutfs in narrower stripes. Pretty Siciliennes
with velvet figures, are promised, and also
lovely cambrics and gauzes. For demi-season
wear, mohair is preferred, either plain or
check pattern. The glacs taffeta of course re-
mains on the throne. and is chiefly employed
with cashmere. The wooden material AMMAN
lite, has large stripes; it is rather rough look
ing stuff, but makes up we'll, and promises to
be largely patronized for ordinary wearing. For
elegant dressers the glace woolens plain or
embroidered, and assorted taffetas, will be pre-
ferred.
The jacket is in general favor; it fits to the
waists and moulds on the hips: the skirt opens
to exhibit the ends of the vest; the collar dis
plays the shawl opening, with cravat and pin
ladies' have appropriated the gentlemen's
"dickey." The newer mantles are in moss
colored Ottoman, with velvet embroidery.
That for young ladies will be kind of Robes
pierre combination, in otter cloth, and very
elegant; in the vest opening frill is visible,
and the neck has muslin craVat round the
upright collar. The buttons are sculptured
mother of pearl.
For walking costumes, the materials are
moss velvet and cream cloth, the collar is up.
right and in velvet. Sicilienne and velvet are
to be met with, as also gray mohair and glace
tatfeta. For town wear, cloth, pointed toes,
are in favor for s hoes and the American kid
boot, dull. lacing above the loot, with toe-bit
in vanished leather, having perforated or 9TH
or design, is general
REARING BABIES.
An establishment is spoken about for the ar
tificial rearing of babies till months old. Pro-
lessor Tarnier has a kind of ''chicken appara-
. rrhich has unrkad uar.r o+;rsao40.;l-z