Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-08-30
THE ROAD 10 KHARToUM



ROUTE AL0T0 THE MILK VALLEY,
RsSa cssrs 70 Kkssss~s ~ Dsss Nlsl CAMEL.
he sss~es, Lexsss< era Tswm Of sss
asves Hsuks..
Iy.B.A. IN xew xcsh r,,sssi
60 many and distinct are The advantages
which The Mic route has 20 offer for oEcn-
ing ccmmuntcation with General Gordon
above those Of the alternative methods.
that for the troops engaged In the enter.
prisc. ard foe success ahkc, u Is a satisfsc.
tory issue to the various arguments that
his plan has ultimately found favor In the
sicht Of the Brtish War Office. Tn.
doablcllv the difficulties OF the Snakin
desert woaId have cntaiied much toss
and prwsiion among Che men marching
across II 10 Begber. Confusion must have
waited IN scnn measure on soldiers secus-
toned 10 a Subian sun, and compelled 10
add 10 the maniicH hsrdships Of the
desert watchful vigilance against a foe
whose tactics resemble somewhat those Of
NJ. Jourdsin--s thrust. and then qui ma
pas IA patience que oous pares. In previous
letters have described the desert roads OF
Nuoia and Suakin. hu.. since the Egyptian
ware has yeered hack 10 the Nile, | win ask
over the route 20 he followed Nv the British
force, aud, white we travel up the classic
river, draw some passing sketches 81 the
scenic framework OF our Journey.
since we are not IN pursuit OF some nee,-
footed emisssry OF FL Mahdi, nor otherwise
hardened with the hurry OF duty, LET US
board our craft at Boolah. the busiling lit
ne port Of Cairo, and, on the shaded deck
Of some slow-moying dababeeah, pass up
the great riycr--the haunt of 80 much his
tory and romance. As the vessel moves
onward there Is unroled IN cyer-shifting
panorama OF bright scenes; for, apart from
The architectural glories Of the land, the
nainre-piotures u rs present time are as
fair rs th,v arc diversified, aud the river
hanks alive with constant show
~ busy eastern life On either shore
stretch away 10 the Lybian aud Arabian
hills the ard deserts, sometimes rcceding
where the hnd Wing low admits the fer
tiliziDg deposits OF the Nile at its food.
sometimes with bold encroachmcnts merg-
ing their Drifts Of Windshield sand IN their
own reflections In The water. Flanked by
this rampant Of barrenncss, winds with the
rivers course the narrow ribbon OF cult
waited soil which lent Herodotus his phrase
that Egypt was "a gift Of the Nile" Field
shades 81 green. according 10 the crop they
bear; dotted and interspcrsed here and
there with deep groves Of palm-trees. under
he Welcome shade OF which cluster the
mud-built huts Of the iellahln. These
closely-packed h,lts, built Of "bricks
without straw" and rooted with coll
icctions Of palm-logs. leaves. sods, or
other conglC merstioh OF rubbish, would
be lost IN The landscape, so far
rs color u concerned. but for the belt of
Palms which invaiiafly surrounds them.
An Egyptian village Is a strange cOnfOr-
nation. and resembles nothing so mnch as
an elaborated dUstheap. The huts, being |
for the most part OF suR-dried |
mud. soon crumble away. and. as the |
Egyptian has an intense dislike Of altering |
his locale. the work Of decaying and re- |
newlng Is as constantly proceeding. Ii |
follows that most OF the towns and villages |
u The Higher Nile stand on lofty mounds
he graves Of many bygone predecessor
md thus-thanks TO their elevated posi- |
in time Of food ycrila- |
bic islands, lending safety from the i'm |
waters 10 the village Occupiers
md their live stock. Streets there are none.
" not what might be called by that name, /
or the narrow lanes, now emei giug on
One courtyard, now blocked by some
umbled-down hut. are but little Patron
zed, the very dogs preferring the house
OPS for their law perambulations. They |
re little more than tortuous passages left
'ere and there between the mud novels,
nd the widest cannot boast proportions
,rcsicr thsn the Hindu carriage OF which
Is owner said, "It will contain. Sabib.
q the fats four, but OF the leans
i've" During the daytime dogs aud
hickens hold their undisturbed sway,
he men being nj work in the neigh
'oring fields or labeling at the re-
gomen are attending 10 domestic affairs.
VERY lane, dusthill, and houseiop has it.
oniingent OF these dogs, which are 81
very degree 81 shabbiness, both OF coat
nd breed. and frequently marked with the
cas Of some forgotten fight. They have
he Tedeening virtue of faithfulncss TO
beir adopted village. aud share with the
Iites the duties Of sanitary inspection in
he East. As was said Of their Indian cousin
nee removed, their home Is Asia aud their
God rubbish.
Perhaps the numberless pigeons are one
I the most pronounced items In the en-
embIe OF an Egyptian village, and the
Tile traveller cannot help being struck by |
ie arrangements made for their reception.
he greater portion Of the huts are crown
] with quantities OF large white and gray
r., sunk into the muddy composition OF
'e building. presenting an appearance like
Ne hattfements Of castle, and herein
Iyriads Of these birds find unmolested
ielter, while every creviee round
bout the earthenware pigeon-houses
fitted with branches of soui or other
God TO serve a perches for these intimate
lies Of the fellahin. Indeed. IN some VIII {
yes their numbers and the extraordinary I
'eparations made for their convenience !
EN- 10 justify the conclusion that il is Il l
wnship Of pigeons, wherein few HUI |
an beings are taken in as dodgers. In !
eir constant movement they form pretty ,
allure Of the Nile, as with graceful, wheel J
X Hight they sweep IN cloud OF blue |
ross The landscape. To- settle in the yellow {
ubble 81 some dowra- feid or swoop
nong the children playing in the dusty /
PAGES. {
A familiar but evcr-picturesque sight Is
rat of the women passing to the rivers '
1nk. balancing on their heads the Jars OF '
alter with grace Of step and motion that |
light well cause Ab-aham's servant to ,
INK RCbekah q dams,l very lair 10 look {
pom. Like the sOmbre-plumaged birds Y
He'd The "Nino Sisters" come these {
ue.Iobed women, morning and evening, {
the riverside IN chattering groups 10 J
'oeure water for their household wants. a
Vi when the pitchers are filled IL j. with :
tIange mingling Of grace aud strength that I
ey lift the heavy burdens TO their heads. Fl
aybe the shoulder Is already tenantsd Il
y some brown baby holding on for dear
fe TO lis nrothef's neck. while near bv an \
her toddling member OF the family il n
irving the patcrnal buffalo TO its daily 4
allowing in the Nile mud, which courtesy 4
Ills bath. Such scenes as these are some a
the more common pictures which each v
~ brings In lis chapter OF Nile travelling. 4
Ike the craven ruins OF the land, they re. Y
reduce TO US the past and show the SIM G
lie lives OF people too indolent aud obedi- i
lt TO the conservatism betaught OF the sun /
change customs and ways which were 7
icient when history was Graded. r
As we sail up the river, by village and @
aim grove, past the many pyramids which
ntinel the silent necropoli OF Memphis n
I'd her sister cities, aud the Island OF II
ods, where tradition tells us that the q
aid MoseS was found among the rushes, | Il
any smalYfowns are seen, but none OF im- c
oriance until Minieh is reached. A pic I
iresque place this Is, n viewed from the I
ver, with lie minarcts encircled by their Z
'etted collars, from whence the muezzIn /
slls the faithful TO PRAYER; It's gardens, a
ne houses, the busy boat scenes OF lis +,
anks, and the white sycamore shade ed tomb
the slelk who staef. kx A. ,...,u..fI- | !.