Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-08-10

zUTuxxAsD WINTER FASHIONS.

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nunaes % 0sssls ~ he Le&ies-A revsi'
nSsrsrs esssA--vssvsts, sslks, and sasins
lsmpsr;s Busos, In its current issue,
AnhnueA summer h lust at its height
merchants IRE preparing for the next sea-
con, and are receiving their first importa'
Mons % dSe<s xocd> for autumn ara winter
NJ, Wooslen stunts promise 70 remain IN
fkyov Sor street dresses and veivefs for car
rtsxe costumes. In new wool fabrics plain
~ COLOR, anal figures, and stripes OF va
rSos,s widths, make up the bulk OF the i'm.
nortssiops, For solid colors, dahlia. plum,
nrune. snd beliotrope shades are largely
Iuuor5cd In fine cashmercs. In lady's cloth,
IN kstrakhsns. and the rough bison cloths
various shades Of mushroom, seal, and the
sojden browns are also represented. II Is
prophessed that green Of brighter shades
ihsn those lately worn will be used for
winter dresses; the cresson green now In
favor In Psris appears In figures on darker
wool grounds. and there are moss and
bronze shades, but less olive green than
WAS teen lsst winter.
AsrRAxHAN-JERsEY, PoLARIAS, ETC.
A novelty in wool goods Is an Astrakhan-
Jersey cloth. which his webbing for the
Foundation that N elastic, and on this Is
kucfted and looped wool that gives the ef-
kct Of Assrakhan !urs. This viii be used
for trimming cloth dresses in bands and
borders, and also for entire jackets. II
comes IN many gray shades, In golden
brown. the new greens, dark red, and
black. Another new fabric initiates the
smoother skins Of the Asirakban lamb, and
u called Polarlan. This Is made OF silk
threads that are partly smooth and partly
crinkIed, though only slightly rough, and
woven in very small loops that do not make
20 thick and clumsy fabric as the wool
Astrakbans. A mixture OF silk and wool
In one material Is revival Of the old-tiiDe
prune,la, with closciy.twilIcd ground that
looks like satin. This may be had quite
plain or with raised velvet figures. or else
with flowers outlined by beads. IL il
limited to black, and will be used mostly
for oyer-dresses. For children's wraps
are white cloths. In basket aud striped or
corded patterns. that have thick, warm
ismb's-wool back that looks rs II n sheet al
wadding had been glued 10 10 on the wrong
side. The newest bison cI)ths have stripes
Of wool Asirnkban woven In them In self
colors or In two contrasting colors.
yELvETs.
Another velvet season Is announced for
both dresses and wraps. There are plain
yelvets with the short. close pile that Il not
easily marred; uncut velvet in heavy reps,
that many modisies commend as the most
elegant OF all yeiveis the frise velvet, with
rough. crinkIed. uncut loops or pile, max
ing figures on plain Pile or on plain reps !:
he. rl ira Halt n m
the closely clipped pile, aud The striped vel
vets which were fashionable in Paris last
year. hut were only used here by very ex-
elusive modistes. Stripes are decided
feature Of The new Importations, aud mer-
chauts expect them TO become as popu-
lar here next season as they now
are In Europe. Even stripes Of bold
width, from one 20 three inches broad, are
shown In dark red next green, or ecru with
golden brown. white with black, moss green
with heiiotrope, gray with black, or seal
brown with fawn, and the same coIoTs are
manufactured i'm alternate stripes OF Sicil-
ispne with velvet. Prunc velvet striped
with sicilienne stripes OF the same shade
makes tastefutfabric, and the many dahla
tints are similarly woven. Bayadere velvet
stripes across from selvedgc to seIvedge)
are also seen, and II is said are being made
up In Paris for autumn costumes.
For waistcoats, fancy vests, and basques
there are many small-fgured and satin
spotted yelvets that will be liked for the
gay toilettes Of young women. The straw
berry design rs prettiest among these, and
there are trefoils, coral branches, the ace of
clubs, ana tiny dots that are the merest
points OF colored satin sunken in the deep
pile OF velvet, or else the ground Is velvet,
with the figure also Of velvet OF longer
pile, or the figure may be frise in velvet on
satin ground. For cloaks are extremely
large figures Of velvet or OF plush on uncut
velvet grounds, and stripes both length
wise aud across the goods are seen in the
richest cloakings.
SILKS AND sATINs.
There are few novelties to quote 10 silks,
owing 10 the fact, already stated, that
woollen stufis are TO be de rigueur for street
dresses, and velyets are for grand toilettes.
Some gros- grains with reps OF medium size
are shown with pencilled stripes Of satin Of
another color, and these have refined COM
binations that will please women OF quiet
tastes. such us sage green With heiiotrope
or prune stripes, brown striped with fawn
color, or dark blue with golden brown.
Jerseys. II seems, are not 10 be discarded,
but will be made Of silk webbing with u
feecy lining that makes II sufficiently warm
for winter and prevents II from being seen
through. This comes in Llack, seal golden
brown, the dahlia shades, and the new
green.
satins are again so largely imported that
they are evidently 10 be retained; they
come In new Egyptian stripes of rich yet
.ombre coiors oyerlaid with quaint outline |
lesieus IN gold or silver threads; there are |
llso pointille satins with dots OF bright |
lues on dark ground. and many with |
mail velvet figures OF the same shade as !
he ground. The mixtures Of satin with /
velvet are among the most elegant fabrics |
shown for parts Of rich costumes; thus |
there are satin grounds with tapestry-like !
velvet figures, the pile quite loug, yet rep |
Iesenting the cross stitches Of gold tapes
tries, and there are chine velvet flowers,
fruits, and nuts strewn ut wide intervals
on dark or light satin grounds.
DRESS TRIMMINGS.
Passementeries are Icing largely import
ed, both In WIDE borders aud i'm separate or
naments 10 he placed iiregularly on DIFF
ferent parts Of the dress. in the way Ma
dame Raymond has already described.
Chenille and Jet beads are introduced in
new ways in these trimmings, and are ar
ranged In pendants that fall from the CEN
tres OF large flowers or other figures. A
novelty for wool dresses is an applique
trimming made up of plain colored cloths
covered with soutachc braids that are raw
ellcd out at the ends TO form fringe.
Borders OF mai about feathers are imported
as garn'ture for velvet wraps, and
there are bands Of coq-plumes ar
ranged In new ways. aud also OF many of
the smoother feathers. such as those
OF the guina-hen, partridge. aud pheasant.
Birds heads nestle in feather trimmings,
and are 10 be placed irregularly on the cos
tune. Velvet ribbons OF unusual width
are imported for bordering dress skirts,
for belts and for sashes, and the narrow
velvet ribbons will be used in many parallel
rows, rs braid is now arranged. Hercules
braid and silk galloons woven In new de-
signs are among the trimmings for wool
dresses. soutache will remain in favor,
but there "a suggested tendency for wider
braids. Velvet cut from the piece will be
used on cloth aud poplIn dresses when the
more severe tailor trimmings OF stitching
nd braiding are objected TO.
LAcEs.
Dentelle MarQuise Il new black lace
combining the Spanish and French !acas.
The msshes are round like those OF French
thread lace, and the designs are copied
from Spanish laces in closely-woyeu silk,