The Colfax chronicle. [volume] (Colfax, Grant Parish, La.) 1877-1981, 1884-09-27
Cool Garments for the House.


Wrapper-gowns that may serve either
for neglige day dresses or for night
gowns are shown in the Mother Hub
bard shape made of lawn or cambria;
those with tucked yokes. standing
tucked ruiile on the neck, and two ruff
fes on the sleeves, also around the
skirt. are very neat and inexpensive.
For those who prefer colored gowns,
pale blue or pink Scotch gingham of
solid color is used for all Of the gown
but the yoke, which is made of white
embroidery in open compass, wheel, or
star patterns. More dressy princesse
wrappers of white null, with a Vatican
fold behind shirred to the neck, and
falling wider open as it reaches the
floor. This Vatican fullness is sewed
in the middle seam of the back as far
down as the tourAure, and below this it
adds to the width of the skirt. Instead
of being held in darts, the fronts of.
many wrappers are merely shirred at
the waist line, and ribbons inserted in
the under-arm seams are tied across. A
deep gathered iounce or two narrow
fiounces tucked and edged with the
patent Valenciennes lace add q graceful
finish to the skirt of such gowns; these,
however, must not cross the Vatican
plat. White figured satteen and the
gay figured satteens on light ecru or
cream grounds are much liked for
Mother Hubbard gowns with the yoke
and sleeves OF embroidery. For silk
gowns foulard and surah are used at
this season in delicate shades of blue,
pink, or pale pearl gray, with some
Oriental lace for trimming arranged in
full frill around the neck and wrists
and down the fronts. The loose Fedora
fronts Of soft dropping puffs are scsn
on the tea gowns Of white China silk
or of light surah; these are made to fl
smoothly in the back, and may be Ia
princesse shape-all in one piece-or
else they consist of deep matinee
jacket, with separate skirt TO complete
it. The Fedora matinees are also shown
of these light silks to wear over white
muslin skirts. ~
Tucked Spencer waists of white lawn,
linen, or null are again made to wear
with skirts of silk, surah, or grenadine.
These garments are liked for comfort
by elderly ladies and those who, having
to consult economy in laundry bills, do
not wear entire dresses of wash goods,
and less neglige-looking than dressing
sacques The white linen lawns with
out figures are excellent for these spen-
GERS, as they are cool and wash and
wear well they are also made of the
new Iut1ia linens that are really cotton,
but woven of irregular threads that re-
semble linen. French nainsook, null,
and bishops lawn spencers are made
with eight or ten narrow tucks down the
back and front, with feather stitching
for decoration covering the sewing Of
each tuck. These are the d-fashioned
helted waist, called by some the French
waist, by others the fan waist, and by
most the spencer. They are gathered
to a belt that may be merely facing
inside around the waist line, or may be
stitched on the outside. and there
is a short space below to pass
under the dress skirts. A double
standing ruffle or square turned
over collar to match the waist
completes the neck. and the sleeves are
trimmed to correspond. All the old
ways of trimming these waists are re-
vived, such as inserted embroidery or
lace down back and front, and pufs of
the sheer lawn, with ribbons run under
them. For quite young and slender
ladies yoke and sleeves are made OF
embroidery or of lace, or of tucks, and
the muslin is gathered to it with an
erect ruffie. and again gathered below
in the belt; this gives the effect of a
guimpe, and is more dressy than the
plain spencer.
Embroidered muslin in open wheel
and star patterns. or in stripes that rep
resent rows of insertion, is made MP in
easily fitted basques, and edged all
around with scalloped embroidery Of
the same design sewed on without any
fullness. The sleeves and collar are
similarly scalloped. and this garment
is worn in the house with plain muslin
skirts, or else with those Of surah OF
other silk. There are also pretty
sacques of sheer null made with shir-
ring in the back and front at the waist
line, while others sre fitted by side
forms in the back, and are loose in
front, with ribbons to tic sewed in the
side seams 1t The waist HGrper's Rq.
oQr.