Evening capital. (Annapolis, Md.) 1884-1910, 1884-06-09
KaIrwan.

carefully maintained by its imans, has
un;il recently remained impenetrable
No infidel sullied it by making his
dwelling there; few only passed
through it, and these not without peril.
Yet how rich mine it offers to the
observer 1t is to-day, with the excep-
ton of Mecca, the only city where one
finds the characteristic type of the
Arab, the Evolutionary lore of the race
and epics of its origin, intact as in the
primitive days of Islamism. These
Arabs, at the height of their power,
were the progressionists of Europe
and had. if not advanced, at least saved
science from the darkness and the bar
barism of the Middle Ages, have to-day
no sciences except that which they call
their science of God, no physicians, no
lawyers, no bankers; but priests every
where, under the varied forms Of
imans, muftis, koodjas and marabouts
whose lives are passed in writing dull
commentaries on the Koran, and in
seeking new interpretations of obscure
texts. The city lies in an immense
plain, partly of marshy, partly Of sandy
soil, slightly undulating toward the
sea; it is bordered on the north by the
ridge of Zaghonan (4432 feet). and on
the west by the chain of the Sefaya.
In spring-time the approach to it is,
charming. Tho ground is covered with
barley wheat, and tiny tufts of alta,
of beautiful dull green, already
yellowed and scorched by the sun,
almost disappearing amidst dazzling
multitude of flowers with their faunt-
ing colors. Here and there the
lower lands, covered with water, glisten
in the sunlight. The plain spreads out
in monotonous uniformity, and the eye
seeks in vain tree, rock, on which
to rest Dark specks, sometimes light
columns Of smoke, indicate the douars
the Arab villages. Caravans pass
slowly in the distance. The silence
is broken only by the plaintive and
curiously modulated Arab songs taken
up, one by one, by the camel driver.
The simple calm of the landscape, the
primitive costumes of the nomads,
bring to mind familiar Bible scenes.
From the top of knoll faint white
line appears in the distance; it is the
Holy City. Following the accidents of
the ground, one loses sight of it for
some moments to find it presently the
more visible. In the crystalline air the
embattled walls are clearly defined
against the mountains. Toward the
northern end the lofty minaret of the
Grand Mosque stands out clear-cut and
isolated; presently, little by little, as
one approaches. the wall seems to be
crowned with kobbas, green or white
and with minarets. Scarcely express
IDLE, but giving to the picture halo of
enchantTent, are the transparency Of
the atmosphere. the clear-cut silhouettes
the fineness of color of the mountains
in the background. their silver gray
pearled with all lovely shades of rose
and blue of an infinite sweetness and
delicacy.
Arriving at sunset, the hour of
prayer. a sad and contemplating mood
steals over one; the harsh voice of the
muezzins from lofty minarets, calling
the faithful ones to prayer, alone breaks
the stiffness Of the plain, aglow in the
settingsu sun; one half fancies these may
be other Jeremiahs lamenting over the
ruins of their country. A ruin indeed,
and a desolate ruin, is this Kairwan
which has just presented herself to US
from afar in all the subtle charm of her
Eastern adornments.- Harper'S Mdga-
cine.