The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-11-22

terial is brown, as it is doubtless the fancy for
golden brown that has revived the use of these
furs. The rare otter is one of the fashion
able brown furs but the brown trimming In
most general use is natural beaver, and the
pucked beavers, some of which are only partly
plucked, and also the colOred brown beavers.
FUR TRIMMED CLoAKs.
The next choice for dressy cloak after the
long sealskin garments is a cloak of similar
shape trimmed with fur, and mantle made
either of the frse velvets, the chisee velvet.
the satin figures brocaded on velvet striped
velvets, armures, beaded brocaded or the
heaviest repped silks that have satin cords woven
in at intervals. Brown and black are the colors
that trim most handsomely with furs for day
wraps, but for the evening there are gold and silver
brocades on white satin grounds that produce
very rich effects. The long Albani the Gretry,
La Fayorite. Galatea, and other garments al
ready described are made up In these rich fab
RIGS, lined with quilted more or brocade, change
able silk, or satin, and trimmed with wide Dor
der of some long, feecy fur, as a fluffy effect is
especially desirable when the cloak itself is not
made of fur; little chenille fringe is sometimes
added, and there are very rich beaded ornaments,
with others made of satin cords
Short visites with sleeves and the scarf man
ties that the arms without sleeves, are also
made of these rich materials and bordered
with fur. Some handsomely shaped jackets,
with triple folds below the close-ftted back and
a loose Moere front are made of the heavy
only with furs, Long Newmarket cloaks and
listers made by famous Paris modistes get their
cachet from the trimming added by the turner's;
thus there is prettily Tapped surplice-like col
lar of natural beaver put on a green or brown
redlngote, a black camel S hair dolnGn for a
lady in mourning has Astrakhan or Persian lamb,
or black fox fur, put lengthwise the whole
front and below the waist in the back. Large
square pockets of Astrakhan or other fur are
also seen on the sides of fitted cloth garments,
FUR-LINED GARMENTS
The fur-lined circular remains in favor a
useful wrap. but is chosen for a garment for
stylish wear. There is an effort to make this
simple wrap look high-shouldered by shirring it
in rows across the shoulders, and using a small
er collar that does not conceal this shirring.
The fur Innings were made up so heavily that
they have gradually lost favor, and are now
confined to circulars, while the plush Innings in
troduced to rival them have entirely disap-
peared. Whole squirrel Innings are used for in
expensive circulars that begin rs low as $28.
while Innings made only of the backs
of the animals, and therefore gray
throughout, are used for higher priced
wraps. Camels hair circulars lined with the
grey backs, cost $65 and are liked for elderly
ladies, for travelling, and for those who wear
mourning The Russian sable Innings, with
tails hanging at intervals, are made up with
Sieilienne outside, and so luxurious inwardly
that either side may be worn out. Mink Innings
are used in armure and figured Sicilienne wraps
and there are circulars for the opera lined with
royal ermine, which may be bought at $75 or
$50 A novelty for Innings and also for borders
is long crinkled white fleece of Chinese fur.
The small collar of fur with a black clasp Is
considered sufficient trimmings for the most Cir
eulars; borders add so much to the weight that
they are seldom used
FUR HATS AND TURBANS
A wintry poke bonnet for young face is made
in the fishwife shape; pointed in front, and
faced there with mink. The bonnet itself is of
brown velvet with some birds in front of the
crown for trimming New seal turbans have
very close brims with high crowns that taper,
or that are slightly indented. Seal hats have
brims that recede until they become very narrow
behind and there also English walking hats
of this fur. Birds in clusters, or else breasts
mounted in long shapes, are the trimmings.