Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-03-02
SPRING FASHIONS 1884.
HIGH RITUALIsTICD DRESSES FOR
THE LENTEN SEASON.

many ways without being remarkable in
any. They have been brilliant and varied
in character and color, but kept well
within the lines of a strict conventional
ty, and interesting chiefly from the delica-
cy Of tints, the charm of happy combina-
ton, and the beauty OF the new embroid-
cries and other adornments.
The revival of the low bodice, and par
ticularly the exclusion of sleeves from
dressy toilets, have been made the most of
10y the pOssess0rs of beautiful necks and
arms. and if the exhibition was cOnfEed
to these we might thank them for their
generosity and let the matter go; but I'M
fortunately there are persons who do not
seem to understand either what they owe
to themselves or the public, and who
make display which, if it was ObligatO-
ry, would entitle them to the deepest SYM
patty. 1t is only fair to say, however,
that there are fashionable women, lead
ers IN the most brilliant circles, who have
reyOlted from the first against this return
to an obnoxious custom, and have not
yielded to it an iota. Few out of the
grip of the inner circle of what is
of strength and courage it takes to hold
out against accepted law, even in the cut
of a bodice. The square neck, the out
standing de MedicI or Mary Stuart col
lar, have been the alterations for dressy
toilets with those who would not counter
ance the low bodice. and the use of gold
and beaded embroidery upon lace has
affo In u fOY iqh
decoration.
JEWELLED DRESSES AND ORNAMENTS.
The dress OF women seems to be but the
reflex of the new ideas put into upholstery
and household decoration. Within a few
years the novel use of glass, white and
cOlored, Tor ornamental, hall, and other
interior purposes. has been commented on
freely, and now we see an application OF
the same material for dresses. Indeed, the
only real novelty introduced into the
whole arcanum of the most beautiful
dressing for many years has been colOred
glass-ln the shape of beads and initiated
gems.
The aesthetic idea was a rennais-
sance which has left us some good things
la form and color, which have been incOr-
pOTated into the general system; but the
absorption into the body of ordinary glass
OF all tAe glow of the sunset-the red of
the ruby and the varied tints of the opal
have opened III . casualties which are
even yet buC u,iIiy perceived -
IN time, if the desire for glitter continues,
render a new Arabian Nights necessary
for sultanas will be as common as day
Iaborers and their magnificence but a re-
petition of the Chrome rise and fall.
The introduction of imitation diamonds
of quality to deceive even eX-
perts is responsible for the recent
and very effective use OF
buckles, and the like, in Qrnamenting
dresses. Tue manufacture of the best of
....,ese heliolas) is the result Of expert
n,nts extending over a series of years,
and as they are always mounted in pre-
cious metals-gOld or silver-they are not
! cheap or common and are quite as strlk-
| ing as Jewels costing thousands of dollars.
| Manufacturers and jewellers who deal IN
/ these wares have learned also that size Is
not the measure OF value; that big bulky
stones are vulgar looking and multiply
the chances of discovery of their real
character. Size and cutting are now
/ graduated to the cutting of real stones
| and 1t is rather curious that the genuine
| are initiating the pretty designs of the
| spurious. Were all the diamonds anC
| other stones real that are seen on ditferen
! parts of elegant tOlletteS that are employ
! ed in the max ne of combs, buckles
agrafies, and other useful and ornamental
accessories, every house would need to b
a safe for their deposit.
FEATHERS AND FLOWERS.
OF late feathers have quite supersede
flowers, not only upon bonnets but ais
upon dresses. Where there is taste an
plenty of money feathers as ornaments
ton, even upon dresses, NAV o&Ja
with very good effect n1 ar 81 pale with
! s9tiDu leite, sbahd dianseSs.u1iss, Pcok well.
and nothing could be more charming
than bridal dress, worn recently. OF
very rich white satin, draped with white
embroidered silk tuile, the garniture
feathers, group of which also
fastened back the tulIe veil. But,
on the contrary nothing could
be worse than two huge punches of
feathers, worn the other evening at a
large reception, one pink and the other
blue, the first On the shoulder above a
Swiss bodice of wine cOlOred velvet. the
other in the hair, which was carried very
high, in accordance with the prevailing
fashion; Marquise head-dress and Pom
padour plumeS, with Swiss peasant waist
The newest and prettiest feather Orha.
ments for the hair are in white, pale pink
and pale blue; are powdered with gold or
silver, and mounted as aigrettes. These
are really lovely and are craze among
young girls. At a late entertainment
where the ladies were requested to wear
their hair powdered, almost every one
present displayed a Princesse aigrette
There was an exception, however, and
this exception may again prove u rule,
for the novelty and beauty of the Orna-
ments she wore attracted attention TO
them, and went far toward making them
hA Of hn frrfrr
sisted Of bouquets Of clematis blossoms
and lilies of the valley, sprinkled with
powdered diamonds and having diamond
hearts. At least, this was how they
looked, and this combination of brilliant
effects with flower, form and color is the
new departure in artificial flowers which
has been made to throw feathers in the
shade and restore the prestige to artificial
floral Ornamentation. The imitation of
gems, white and cOlored, has in fact been
applied to leaves and grasses and flowers
as frosting, powder, dew, and also in the
form of crystal drops lying in the heart OF
the flower, while brilliant little flame
color amethystine and golden gems, look
ing like imprisoned sunlight, are mounted
as bugs, minute butterflies and the like.
All the made flowers are exquisitely
lovely this seasOn-mOre shame to them
for matching the white and purple clover.
the delicate anemones, the lovely white
lilacs, the yellow buttercups, and the.
pretty shyness of the sweet pea.
Flowers, it is generally believed, will
come to the front with the new spring and
summer bOnnets, which are to be largely
of lace and transparent crepe, dotted or
laminated with gold, but which will vet
be certain to throw a majority in favor of
the useful, never firing straw, while chip.
1t is thought, will be fashionable this sea
son, trimmed with groups of pink roses,
violet leaves, and bands of dark hunters
green velvet, with buckle of brilliance at
the back.
VELVET AS A SPRING TRIMMING
takes the lead of all others. Beads and
embroidery have been FUSED up" on recep-
ton toilets, and fur disappears with the
earlier spring months. Velvet seems
specially adapted for the mounting of the
new woods which are always in force for
"between seasons" The spring designs
in wool, as exhibited at Lord & Taylor's.
are wonderfully attractive in color and
quality. There is not the least tendency
toward tiirtations with pOplIns or any of
the stiff, glossy, old-fashiOned fabrics,
such as alpaca, mOhair and the like.
Rough and shaggy cloths have also disap-
peared, and in their places we have
cheyiots, fine sOft-fnished serge, Indian
beige, fine ottoman cloths, diagonal plaids