Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-07-06
SUMNER FASHIONS.
TOILETS TO BE WORN AT NEW
PORT AND SARATOGA.

Coaching, Racing, and Boating-Toilets
for the Gay and the Quiet Both at
Home and Abroad-The Lace Distem-
per = The Prettiest Lawn Tennis
Dresses.
CorresDondencs Of the Morning Eslos.
NEW YORK, July 4.--June has been one
Of the busiest of busy months with the
modistes, and many ladies who would
leave weeks earlier if they could are CON-
PEELED to wait their turn and dance at
tendance in the crowded rooms of a
fayorite dressmaker instead of willing
away the sweet hours of the last torrid
spell under the trees and among the
roses. 1t is not the summer outfit alone
that operates to detain many well known
figures in the fashionable world in their
city homes. Society 4 pretty well broken
up, and there is no season such as allures
those who can participate in its gayeties
to Paris and London; but there are coach
ing trips and the Jerome Park races, and
these latter invariably call out a fashion
able attendance and display Of toilets, as
many coaching parties are involved in
them. The dress worn on these occasions
has touched the most opposite extremes
of simplicity and display. A dress of
pale brown wool trimmed with graduated
bands Of velvet in darker shade, high
hat with ostrich feather mounting in the
same shade of brown and rouleaux of
velvet pleated diagonally. Dress of light
ecru mohaiT, straight skirt, basque and
drapery trimmed with wide, fiat mohair
braid, hat OF ecru straw, with ecru and
old gold butterflies upon twisted handker-
chief of shot silk. A pink and white
Bingham dress prettily trimmed with
graduated rows Of fiat white braid was
accompanied by a rough and ready straw
with narrow brim and branch of haw-
thorn mounted upon the front; the adj
ditional trimming folds of null.
Such sample toilets as these were con-
trasted at the races and upon the coaches
with-for example: A dress of pale pink
satin combined with pink and gray
brOcade and garlanded with roses carried
from the shoulder till they were lost in
the draperies of the skirt, mahogany
satin trimmed with cOtfee-c0lored lace
and shell-like passementerie matching
in color, a lavender satin meryeilleux
combined with pink and lavender brocade
with Spanish lace oVer-dress and sleeves.
A gorgeous orange satin was combined
with figured black velvet, and brown
with cOwslip yellow and brown. Cow
slips adorned the brown bonnet, and vel
low ribbon was tied on the handle of the
brown parasol, which was embroidered
with cowslips.
Among the quaint combinations seen
was costume of shepherds check surah
trimmed with cream lace and accompa-
MED by chip hat lined with green silk of
an art shade and trimmed with green silk
spotted with cream, also with lace and
pink roses. The basque of the dress, 1t
should be noted, was finished with a. full
short vest of green silk covered with Span
ish lace, and to complete the detail the
large parasol of pale pink silk was COW
cred with Spanish lace.
There Is no end to the varieties and
eccentricities in costume, the latter being
exhibited chiefly in color, in the shape of
the hats, and in the curious accentuation
OF the elongated features of recent designs.
Some women look like an upright spar;
some like an exclamation point. The
longer and thinner the arms the higher
the shoulders and the taller the hats,
There is no standard of fashion, and man.
ufacturers are at their wits end and try
everything. There is therefore a fine
opportunity for differentiation, and it
must be admitted that it is taken full
advantage of.
DISTINCTIVE TOILETS.
The Newport colors are pink and white,
and the Newport dress is lovely combi-
nation of pink and white silk with pinked
out ruffles, the pink ones covered W 18th
white lace and the drapery forms of gauze
embroidered with pale wild roses, which
look as if they had been dropped upon it.
The pink bodice is open, has full front
OF gauze, outlined with pinked out ruffles,
and lace sleeves to the elbow with narrow
pink and white ruffies matching the skirt
and bodice. The ruffies are so soft and
the pink tint so delicate as to be quite I'M
obtrusive, and the effect is charming.
The Saratoga" toilet par excellence has
been made as part of her summer ward
robe for a young married lady who is
handsome and distinguished. 1t is short
and consists of a skirt of light blue satin
merveilleuX combined with blue and
salmon pink brocade. The over-dress is
of cream Spanish lace, as are the sleeves
also, the bodice and draperies of the
brocade.
A handsome imported dress is of black
satin merYeilleux, combined with gray
black and white brocade, and trimmed
with very handsome passementerie COM
posed of satin leaves and groups of small
macaroons, made of dull silk cord. Es-
curial lace is used for the finish.
But, perhaps, the most elegant dress
seen of late, was at a summer we'd
ding, and was worn by a married sister
of the bride. 1t was of shot silk, violet
and pink, trimmed with a deep flounce of
lace, beaded with very full pinked out
ruching. The upper part was covered
with lace, forming an apron, and drapery
at the back, the latter arranged in loose
falling puffs, divided with ruches. The
bodice was open in front, and had a full
lace vest, very gracefully arranged over
the silk. The bouquet was large cluster
of crushed roses, a garland of the same
being held on one side of the skirt. The
dress was short, and large lace hat was
worn with it, trimmed with a lovely clus-
ter of violets and pink roses. The
brides dress was only remarkable for its
simplicity. 1t was Of India null, trimmed
with Valenciennes in prOfusion and soft
white satin ribbon. She wore no jewels.
Her flowers We're Stephanotes and lilies OF
the valley made up with plenty of green.
Either by accident or design this arrange
ment followed that of the flowers carried
on the occasion of her marriage by Mrs.
Oscar Wilde, whose bridal attire was
highly aesthetic, and showed her devout
disciple of the gentle Oscar. Her erich
creamy satin dress was of delicate cow
slip tint; the bodice square, low in front,
with hight Medici collar, ample sleeves,
pulled, and long, plain skirt gathered into
a silver girdle of beautiful workmanship,
the gift of the bridegroom. Her veil
was Of saffron colored Indian silk gauze,
embroidered. and she wore upon
her fair hair a thick cluster of myrtle
leaves, ON which were left some of the
white blossoms. Her bouquet was as
much green as white" This is what an
English authority says Of the dress, and
! it dispOses of the rumor started here that
Mrs. Oscar Wilde is "utterly convention
| all and wore at her wedding the ortho-
dOX white satin brocade and stiff orange
blossoms. Two lovely little girls, accord
ing to the same authority, who figured as
two of the bridesmaids, wore quaint
gowns of gooseberry red surah, pale yell
low sashes very wide, bronze shoes, red
silk Gainsborough hats, long yellow
| gloves, and carried bouquets Of lilies IN
their hands. The elder bridesmaids wore
skirts of the same "dim" red surah silk
and Over-dresses of pale blue lowered
muslin-de-laine, high crowned hats
trimmed with cream colored feathers
and amber necklaces. They carried white
lilies. Lady Wilde is said to have worn a
handsome toilet of silver-gray brocaded
silk and satin, on the bodice large spray
of roses and carnations, and on her hat
| gray and pink feathers. Mrs. Lloyd, the
mother of the bride, wore rich gray satin.
with large black lace mantle, black lace
bonnet with amber aigrette and black
feathers. She carried a bouquet of yellow
roses. The group is said to have been
exceedingly picturesque" and it must
crafty even Oscars traducers to know
that he was consistent to the last before
Il.