Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1884-08-02
NEW ORLEANS LETTER.
ATTRACTIVE FEATURES OF THE
SOUTHERN METROPOLIS.
Scenes of Interest to the Visitor
characteristics and Social
HabitS-Etc.

characteristics and Social
Habits-Etc.
EDS. RECORD UNION: One of the most
vivid impressions that the Crescent City
leaves upon the mind of the stranger is
that it possesses but few of the character
istics of large city The hustle, the
activity, the hurrying to and fro, the
hasty salutations, are lacking There is
always time for the exchange of friendly
greetings and everything is pervaded with
that sociable, homelike air so delightful to
visitors This is most noticeable in the
business portion, for it is in the busy marts
that we generally look for the jostling
crowd, the formal air, and the cold, calcu-
lating manner. But here, although trade
is brisk and active, one feels that it does
not absorb all of life, but leaves both time
and thought for the cultivation of that
graceful social spirit and that warm hearted
hospitality for which Southerners are so
pre-eminently noted.
THE MAIN PROMENADE
And thoroughfare, Canal street. the great
width of which makes it particularly at
tractive, is divided into three sections, and
the central, called neutral ground, was
originally canal, whence the name is de-
rived. A number of fine buildings line this
street, and prominent among them is one
III course of erection and almost COM
pleted which will be occupied by the Pic
wick Club The Custom house is here also.
&c 70 al ht,il IN, -.
lecture there is nothing of interest except
the marble-room, which is built entirely of
white marble, with immense pillars ex-
tending from floor to ceiling-effective ad-
ditons to lis simple grandeur A familiar
figure that haunts the Courtroom of the
Custom-house is the celebrated Mrs Gaines,
whose suit against the city is 50 well known.
She is about so years old, small and thin,
with red hair and the life of litigation she
has led has left its traces in her careworn
features 1t is interesting on pleasant day
(and how seldom except during the heat
OF the summer are the days not pleasant
here?) TO saunter along Canal street and
note the passers-by. Such
BRIGHT VARYING SCENE
For in their dress, Southerners are wont
to discard somber tints, and to revel in the
gay warm colOrs so much more in har-
mony with their nature and surroundings
Graceful ladies with pale compilations, soft
dark eyes, refined air and that Just per
cepdble tinge of pride in their manner.
Some on their way to the matinee, which
begins ut noon and is over by 3 o'clock.
Others shopping quite leisurelv, andPthere' s
knot Of bright young ladies-Creoles from
their ppearance-chatting pleasantly in
silyery French, the language in such fire.
quent usage here. Gentlemen on their
way to business stopping, to converse with
the ladies, or to discuss with one another
the price of sugar or cotton, for nearly
every SOutherner seems interested III one
or the other commodity. Negroes every
where and 4 curious sight they are.
Women in white calico dresses, long
aprons, and their heads either uncovered or
adorned with a bright kerchief, arranged
like a turban. Some with bundles or bas-
keis of clothes
BALANCED UPON THEIR HEADS,
And walking along so slowly that one won
ders if they viii ever reach their dcstina-
ton. Others seated before the stores with
Il large basket Of cakes and candy before
them. Their stock in trade consists chiefly
of gingercakes and molasses candy (the
genuine article, YOU may be assured), which
Is often not pulled at all, but simply placed
upon a square piece of white paper. They
have also for sale what the French call
"plarines," kind of sugar candy mixed
with pecans, made circular in form, and
about the size of a saucer. 1t is sold at the
rate of five cents a piece, and being the
children's favorite candy, coaxes many a
nickel from their pockets Here is a sight
familiar and uninteresting to resident OF
New Orleans, but strange and most sug-
geStive to visitOr-two cOlored nuns car
Tying their basket for the poor; their dark
features glorified by the same spiritual eX-
preston noticeable in the countenances OF
all Sisters of Charity. By their faithful
and energetic labors they do much toward
removing both ignorance and superstition
from the minds of their people. There Is
\ PICTURESQUE GROUP
OF negroes-men and women muuching
some gingerbread they have just purchased
and chattering in their harsh patois, SO diff
ferent from the pure French. One Of them
carries bucket of powdered brick, sold to
some housekcepcrs for Frightening their
knives or polishing their stoops. 1t was
related to Us how in early slavery times
such vendors, fearing itmight be considered
impertinence should they ring, would
stand trembling before the gate Of a,house
then, when finally the mistress appeared
they would bow and beg, for nearly half an
hour, 10 be excused, before daring to ask il
any powdered brick was wanted Now
they are more independent, but still in
their address there is some remnant Of those
days. If We wander along Canal street as
far IS the levee, a typical Southern scene
grcets Js. We pick our way through bar
rels and barrels of sugar and bale after bale
of cotton, until we reach a steamer which
Is being unloaded. Half dozen darkie>
are busiiy engaged in
HAULING THE COTTON
From the lower to the upper deck
their voices accompanying the movemen
IN slow rythmic measure in harmony
usually quite varied, for one article o
dress seldom corresponds with another
and they often have the appearance OF hay
ing borrowed the apparel. We inquired %
one old man, who was trudging along viii
a wheeibarrow, conveying the cotton upOT
toe wharf if he did not find this bard w0rl
IN summer. But he replied, characteristic
ally, No, sab; dis chile likes de no
Wheddcr; sides. long rs De Lord glib di
chile his hclt he amt gwine ter be like dos,
goal-iur-nothin' trash niggahs ont dar il
.je sun We looked in the direction indi
Gated and saw a number or negroes lynn:
asleep upon the bales OF cotton, their good
uAturcd faces upturned to the sun, evidently
in perfect enjoyment of their nap, ant
gui,e unconscious of the disdain thu
heLpcd upon them. I could not bur ad
mirc the old darkcy's Contcnted spirit. IT
the possession of which he was happic
thCn many wiser and richer man. Re
tracing our way 10 the canal We cross it
and are in the
pf.f 7-rTr