Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-10-05

and over which the outside is held by
clasps or cords and buttons in passemen-
terie. Some of these cloaks are made OF
brocaded velvet, some of terry velvet in
large figures upon satin or Ottoman
grounds some of velvet matelasse, and
some Of handsome Ottoman silk or plain.
velvet velvet. When rich fabrics are
used with a plain or ribbed surface they
are enriched by huge plaques, or rings,
OF soft satin-fn1shed and twisted cord, or
with connected rings or designs in che
mile or beaded embroidery. Beading is
not, however, much used upon cloaks. 1t
is too striking for good taste. Clasps made
OF carved wood, smoked pearl, or oxy-
died metal are much used. At the back
what is technically known as saddle
ornament is almost universally placed on
line with the waist.
The short clOaks are very dressy. They
are still cut high on the shoulders and
partake Of the dOlman style. Some of
them display shoulder ornaments with
pendants, strap shaped; those for Goth
made of braided cord with hanging bOlls,
the richer ones of silk and chenille with
pendant olives. The fashionable fringe is
of chenille with small bead pOin.s.
1t is made of double and triple rows for the
elegant short eloaks of Ottoman and terry
elyet brocade lined with satin or satin
radizOnef, which Will serve as wraps for
evening and visiting purposes IN white or
black.
A quite new design has a deep vest
front, basque back, and long continent
tai cloak lappels which reach nearly to
the foot of the dress upon its sides, and
narrow gradually down without arriving
at point. The skirt may be of cloth or
silk, but must match the coat in color.
1t should be pleated in front, and the full
ness draped at the back, as the basque
admits of a moderate tournure. The
models are made in cloth and trimmed
with plush, with plush collarette, and
clasps to fasten at the throat and waist.
A novel attachment to one of the pretti-
est of the new dOlman cloaks is an oval
in front trimmed like the rest of the gar
ment with chenille "leech" or tasseled
fringe and also lined, but which by the
simple arrangement of loop and button
becomes a very dainty mutf. Lowered
and not required as a muff, it becomes an
ornamental accessory, the style of which
corresponds to the OVal-shaped ends and
gives a look of finish. 1t is by far the
simplest idea for muff which has yet
been invented, and not only economies
the cost but saves the risk of loss which
shadows the shopping expeditions of the
owners Ofdetached and costly fur muffs.
a stylish theatre dOlman is made of
Ottoman satin brOcaded with velvet with
gold threads in the ground work of the
satin and gold silk, outlining in embroid-
cry stitch the velvet leafy design. The
effect is very fine and less pronounced than
might be imagined, the gold thread being
almost invisible.
NEW DRESS TRIMMINGS.
Chenille is an important element in the
trimmings of the season-both the fiat
ones for dresses and the fringes for man.
ties. In the passementeries it is combined
with beading, and soft and twisted silk
cord producing the effect Of rich en-
bro derry, or with the cords alone for those
who do not like the beaded effects. Beads,
like chenille, maintain an acknowledged
place, but are used only in costly designs
and upon rich fabrics by women of taste.
Cheap and common beaded laces, ard
other trimmings of the same class, used
upon ordinary street materials vulgarize
instead of enrichiqg them. The finest
trimmings are now made in this country,
copied from foreign patterns by foreign
wOrkmen and wOrkWOmel, and often
stamped with foreign mark. Not the
snowy embrOideries alone. but the richest
passementeries and combinations of
gimp, with embroidery of beads and
chenille, or gold thread and chenille. The
favOrite and most fashionable patterns are
rings and wheels, the former sometimes
overlapping each other and graduated in
size. ttha latter with open and crocheted
centre and gradually charging radius OF
twisted and satin-tinished cords, upon
which pretty designs in beads and chenille |
are executed. There are also slender, |
leaf-like patterns united together so as to |
form a continuous line or border if neces- |
sary, but capable of separation into differ |
ent ornaments, which may be placed upon |
the shoulders, at the back, upon the sides
or front of dresses.
Fringes are reserved for mantles and |
clOaks. They are not used for dress; at |
least, not as generally or as stylish as the !
fiat passementeries. The newest fringe !,
consists of small pointed tails of chenille, |
with or without bead upon the end of |
each strand. They are made in one or |
more rows, ard cost from 70 cents to s. !
per yard. The technical term for the |
newest style is ''leech" fringe, because !
the strands are shaped like leeches and !
. visit ana squirm in way strongly sug-
gestiYe of these snaky little reptiles. The /
majority Of the expensive flax trimmings |
are made so that the design will form |
complete ornaments, which can be sep |
arated from each other, and used in their |
detached form upon skirt and |
bodice. In this way small guam |
tity by the yard is sufficient to trim a |
dress, an essential qualification when /
the cost ranges from So to $l5 for this |
seemingly insignificant amount. The |
beauty and striking character of the new |
trimmings adapts them to distinctive and |
individual purposes much more than to |
the formation of continuous lines. When |
Ornamentation is an integral part of the |
costume, the work is done on the material; |
when made separate it is more fashiona- |
BILE to put it on in applique patterns, as |
purely decorative. The walk |
ing dress pure and simple is not now fash |
ionably trimmed at all. 1t is we'll cut and !
neatly made in a solid material, richly |
lined, perhaps, but eXterlorly it is as plain |
as mans coat.
There is a distinct difference, however, |
between the trimmings of mantles and the |
dolman garments used for the halfseaSOn !
and dresses. The leech fringes are almost |
used Tor the dOlmans and |
mantles en- suite, accompanied by de- |
tached ornamentatiOu in passementerie |
for shoulders, the back and front of the |
body-part of the garment. The saddles
ornament, named from its division into !
two Outspread sides from the short centre,
is the popular ornament for the back of
cloaks and suits, and is composed of the |
cords and beads or chenille, or all three, !
which form the rest of the trimming.
Sometimes these ornaments form clusters
of tongue shaped leaves held by long
choded caterpillar IN the centre. Others
are shaped more like enlarged butterflies.
handsome, but they are less useful than
the ornaments composed of solid braided
cord with small hanging ball attachments,
which are well made and graceful.
The novelty in buttons is very peculiar.
1t forms at the same time a button and
hook-and-eye at the back. 1t does away
with the use of buttonhOles. The form Of
the button has heretofore been limited to
the necessity for passing through the but
tonhole. 1t had to be round or oblong,
and within certain limits as to size. The
new buttons are not larger, but there is
infinite variety in the design. There are
butterflies and helmeted heads, metal
figures of soldiers, knights on horseback
rescuing lair maids, and girls carrying
rolls of music. The design is purely or
namental. The hook-and-eye at the back
performs the work of fastening. Clasps
too are used for suits instead of buttons
one at the throat, one at the line of the
waist. The work of fastening further is
aided by invisible hooks .and-eyes. The
clasps are of carved wood or bronzed
metal and are used also for cloaks and
Jackets or dolmans. JENNY JUNE.
some Bees.
Chicago Herald "Trdin Tdlk."
ssTalking about bees,'' remarked pas
senger from the West, ''peOpie in this
country don't know what bees is, mean