The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1884-03-27
OUR RURAL TOPICS.
Some Practical Suggestions for Our
Agricultural Readers.
BRIEF sEAsoNAnLE HINTS.

preparing Tor cropping are draining, deep cuI-
ture, and a very thorough sarface pulveriza-
ton. Comparatively little has been done
in draining either large small areas, and
while it is SAFE TO say that tenacious soils can
not be managed to advantage until something
is done towards facilitating the removal of
surplus water, there are many soils having
gravelly or sandy subSoil which soon become
dry enough to work when subjected to the
drying winds of spring.
Seeds do not yegetate readily in cold soil,
and in cases where the SURFACE from frequent
showers keeps damp we have seen good results
from sowing peas, &c, on the surface and COW
ering the seeds by throwing up the ground over
them with spade. Similarly in damp soils it
Is good method to set trees or near the
surface, and throw soil over them, thus max
ing slight mound these are expedients only
to be adopted when nothing better can be
done.
Onion seed should be put in the ground
carly the difference between a good aud
poor Crop often depends upon weeks differ
ence in the time of sowing; this is particularly
SO in the Middle States, where unless the
plants get an early start before dry and hot
weather, they will ripen off before they attain
the size of chinquapins.
With some seeds, such as peas, beets, and
turnips, it is safe rule to follow with a second
sowing about week after the first; that Is
instead of putting in all the seed intended for
an early crop at once, divide it In half and sow
as above.
Parsley seed should be sown early in spring,
as it takes several weeks before the young
plants appear, and they will not stand the
summer we'll unless they get an early start
1t is well to remember that the ground can
not be made too rich for vegetable culture, and
that none of the so-called commercial fertiliz-
ers can take the place of prepared stable or
barn-yard manure for the production of succu-
lent vegetables; guano, bone dust, &C., may be
useful as supplementary stimulants, but the
main dependence must be the barn-yard. The
term heavy manuringp is variously
strued, but in vegetable culture it means not
less than thirty tons of yard or stable manure
to the acre; if bone-dust is applied, not less
than one ton to an acre would be thought of.
Another point in the production OF vegeta-
hles is to allow the plants plenty of room. In
the culture of first-class asparagus for example,
the plants are set as wide apart as hills of In
dian corn to begin with; the soil is also kept
very rich, and elumps of fine stalks are in time
produced. This plan of planting admits of eff
fieient culture during early summer and until
the plants become SO large that they completely
shade the ground and prevent the further
growth of weeds.
Nothing in vegetable culture is of more con-
sequence than that of keeping the-upper hand
of weeds when once they gain the ascendancy
biic value VI the crop ~ ulHnfniSneO 1T iSy
therefore, well to commence the work of pre-
venting the growth of weeds as soon as the
young plants of the sown crop show the rows
sharp toothed rake should be used in disturb
ing the soil close up to the plants, and this will
destroy embryo weeds even before they make
their appearance through the soil. In this
way, by timely andr prompt action, weeds can
be destroyed at a minimum cost. and the crops
will be helped by this frequent stirring of the
soil.
II the pruning of grape vines was neglected
at the proper time, which is Immediately after
the fall of the leaves, the operation should still
| be performed; the branches will bleed when
cut, or shortly afterwards, but this is not sup
posed to seriously injnre the plants; at least we
| have never seen any evil effects from it. 1t is
much better TO prune even az the risk of bleed
| ing than not to prune at all.
| As rule for general guidance, spring is the
best time in the Northern States to set out
| strawberry plants Much of the seeming dis
crepaneies which We encounter in regard to
| the relative merits of spring aud fall planting,
not only in regard to the strawberry, but also
| as to other plants, depends upon the locality of
| the adviser. In the Southern States the straw
| berries will be ripe before the period arrives
| for planting in northern regions. But for most
/ of the Middle and Northern States spring
| planting is the most certain to bring good re-
| suits. Plants set out as soon as the soil is in
| good condition, and the runners kept clipped
| off during summer, will produce their best crop
| q twelyemonth hence. They will rarely ever
| produce heavier crop or even as good crop,
| if kept longer. This is SO well understood that
growers are adopting the plan of planting new
| beds yearly and blowing down the old plants
| after bearing one crop.
| So much has been said about the necessity of
/ pruning fruit. trees annually, and the dire
| results which may be expected to follow neg
1 Loo - H., =. -.
under the belief that something must be done
in the way of pruning they viii not get any
| fruit a far better rule 10 follow would be
that which regards pruning evil which
1 should never be entertained unless good and
efficient reason can be given for the removal of
| a branch or shoot. The practical fact is that
more failures in fruit culture may be traced
! directly to pruning than any other cause, and
better and more regular crops can be shown on
trees that have been neglected, so far as prun-
| ing is concerned, than on those that receive
| their annual visitation OF the saw and pruning
| knife.
| There are certain occasions when pruning is
| absolutely necessary, such as when trees are
| transplanted. There is no rule which can
1 equally apply TO all kinds of trees as to the
amount of pruning required when they have
| to be removed aud replanted. For tree from
/ two TO three years old. or fruit trees of the
same age from the bud, it is a safe rule to re-
move the entire young growth of the previous
year. When the trees are only one year from
| the bud, as is always the case with peach trees,
this would involve the removal of all the
| growth; in this case all lateral or side shoots
| should be removed close to the STEM and the
| top also shortened to four feet or less thus
making the young tree appear like walking
! cane.
| The best time to transplant evergreen trees
and shrubs is just as they begin to show synp-
| toms of starting into growth. The time viii,
of course, vary according to climate, but that
will not affect the rule. If the plants are large
/ compared to the quantity of roots retained. the
side branches should he shortened aud all small
| sprays and weak branches removed entirely.
| Evergreen treesrwill be as much benefited by
| pruning as deciduous trees if judiciously per-
! formed, and the shape and form OF the plant
| maintained
| In selecting trees from the nursery, it ia
usual. especially by those who have no great
experience in handling trees, to select the tall
/ est trees and those which have made the most
| growth in nursery rows. Such trees seldom
have good system of roots that can be made
available in removal; stoeky trees, and even
/ those which appear somewhat stunted in
/ growth, will transplant more successfully aud
make good progress when planted in good soil.
/ Large trees are not the best when early and
rapid growth is looked for. The removal and
transplanting of large trees is rarely entirely
successful.
POTATO CULTURE.
| We CLEAN the following from results of the
| Ohio Experiment Station: "There could be