Alpena weekly argus. [volume] (Alpena, Mich.) 1871-1893, 1884-12-03
The Baths OF Cauqucdes.

Here | am among the Andes. / could
not leave Santiago without visiting the
celebrated Baths of Cauqucdes, the first
syllable of which word must be pro-
nounced like our English word 'cow."
| At eight o'clock on fine morning
how often journeys begin on fine morn
ings!-I left by the railway, and at
11:l5 we stopped to breakfast, and very
badly, ut Rancdgua. The Chilians
seemed TO me to think more about
gourds and tunas than about good meat.
In our two-hours-and-a- quarter journey
we passed through much cultivation by
irrigation, conducted from the many
mountain streams. There was much
cattle. and many horses were to
be seen scattered over the coun-
try, and some of these last were curl
ously occupied in wading up the shall
| low courses of the water in search of
some plant growing at the bottom,
which they spied through the crystal
liquid from time to time and then
duckcd their heads to pick up great
mouthfuls of it. Dry mud walls and
houses appear on all sides, and the dust
was abundant indeed. The corn har-
vest was going on, and the wheat was
being thrashed out on the thrashing-
floor with horses. Round stones
abounded everywhere, showing how
the districts have been coursed by hugo
waters. The people looked rude and
free; they wore ponchos, and goiter was
visible on many threats, the result Gas in
Switzcrland) of drinking snow-water.
When we came to the station for Cau-
qucdes, took the cochc' for the baths
distance of seven leagues, which oc-
Cupicd us some two hours and half,
with one change of horses. The teams
consisted of four, and these were caught
out grazing on the spot, and harnesscd
before our eyes. They were excellent
animals, though rough, and were har-
messed abreast. Our pace was excel
lent, but there was much delay before
starting, and the same at the change.
The dust was frightful, as it is all over
such parts of Chill rs | have visited;
| the nuisance of it may be compared
with that of the vile coal smoke on their
railways; this last being perfect poison
in their magnificent air. At last we
came TO the baths, finely situated on
the Cachapoal River, with dry mount
aims and the cactus all round The
spot is extremely rocky and pictur-
esquc. and from the garden of tho cstab-
lishmcnt the views are grand; ones inn
prcssions being enhanced by the sense
that it is the huge range of the Andes
and no mere holiday rivcr-rocks that are
before you. The long backbone of the
stream rs it winds its long way
down from the Grand Cordillera,
is particularly imposing. The tor
rent rushes by the baths
through deep mountain gorge; all is
on grand scale. The establishment is
built in two principal quadranglcs, with
pleasant shady walks round. There
are three springs tepid and hot;
and there arc two properties In the
water-sulphu and chalybeatc.
The baths are well frcqucntcd and well
conducted. The grand range is not
visible from the baths themselves, but
by mounting n rugged rock, after cross
ing suspension bridge, the glorious as
piring peaks appear on the horizon.
The colors on them of the sunsets arc
surprising; and rs you look upon the
west side of the range these shine full
and uninterrupted. Even these districts
are not free from shocks of earthquakes.
| was startled at night by the shaking
of my bed, and on waking and in
stinctively calling out: "Quicn esp" re-
ccived no answer Then the city clock
tolled two; and | knew that ! had felt
an earthquake; and the next days
paper gave the following short notice
in Spanish, which ! translate: 'I.ast
night. shortly before two, mild shock
of earthquake was fclt.' No harm to
any one this time and here L am again
at Santiago. -CQr. Londqu Graphic,