Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1884-05-17
LETTER FROM NEW ORLEANS.
Visit to the French Portion of the
Crescent City-something OF. the Archi-
lecture, Streets and People-The French
Market-Etc.


EDS. REcoRp-UHIoN All human nature
is pleasantly susceptible 10 the charm OF
novelty. We become wearied Of the same
ness of familiar objects and welcome most
eagerly anything varied in form or manner
from that to which we are accustomed. In
CITY where the'buildings are constructed
according to the latest ideas in architecture,
and the streets follow thai regular undl-
versifed plan common 10 modern cities,
this very newness, as it were, pals upon
ms. and our mind reaches that state when
it is most perceptiye of, and best able to
appreciate, the diversities Of an older city.
Hence it is, that one coming from Cali
fornia to a place like New Orleans, with its
half modern and half antique air, finds
much that is curious and interesting in its
appearance. Particularly is this true of
the French portion, where but rev
changes have been made. Many OF
the houses are built close to the
sidewalk, short fight OF stairs
consisting perhaps OF three or four steps
leading up to them others are located iur-
ther back, with gardens in front, and the
gate by which one enters is kept contnu-
ally locked, those desiring ingress an
nouncing themselves by ringing the bell
which is always attachad to the gate. In
most Southern dwellings the lniun house
is devoted entirelyto the family, ana IN the
rear there is generally a wing, the upper
part of which IS surrounded by gallery,
upon which the servants rooms open
while the lower part serves Tor the kltcheh
and cellars, which, owing 10 the dampnesS,
are always above ground. In many cases
the kitchen is entirely separated from the
| dining-room, sometimes q yard lnterVeh-
! ing. BY this means the house receives none
of the odors Of cooking. 1t IS noticeable,
| both in the arrangement and building OF
| their homes. that Soptherners have ali eye
| 10 comfort rather than to OStentauon. Ihey
are all lightly constructed, the rooms are
very large there is no lack OF yenula-
| ton. and each has number OF
porticoes. or galleries, rs they are there
| called. over which, during warm weather,
awnings are drawn as protection from
| the intense heat an article OF furniture
| unlike ours is the bed, 20 the back part OF
| which is added what is known as a tester,
which extends over the bed and serves for
the attachment Of the mosquito tar, used
| both in summer and winter.
| The principal residence street of this part
| of the city is Esplanade, almost equal IN
width TO three Of the narrow streets. Like
| Canal. the main business thor0ughtare OF
| New Orleans, it is divided into three sec
| tons. the center reserved entirely tor street
cars has a long. line OF trees upon each
side, and as they are green during the
greater part Of the year, the effect IS very
| pleasing. This IS the old arlstocr2dc street,
| and here still live the Oldest and wcalthest
families, as well as those whose fortunes
the war swept away, but who still strive to
retain, outwardly at least, a position con-
fornlinge to their education and refined
tastes The daily struggle, the unaccus-
toned drudgery to which such families
must submit in the effort 10 keep up an
appearance, might fill a volume. ana IS a
sad lesson the instability OF human for
| tunes.
In the narrow by-ways that branch of
from Esplanade are many OF the homes oi
the negroes The houses are mostly one
story, and with the heavy wooden shutters
barring windows and doors, present rather
a dismal aspect. Upon the low porches-
the picture of gOOd-natured lndolence-the
negro women, with their babies in their
| arms, spend the greater part of the day.
About them play half 4 dozen little wOoliy
heads. and there IS more than one Iopsy
10 attract the curious gaze of the stranger
who wanders about 50 interested IN watch
ing and specializing upon people whose
| condition once wrought so vital change
in the social and political world, that he
| forgetS how crooked the streets are here,
until he finds himself lost in their intricate
windings. and only with difficulty succeeds
in cXtricating himself.
Reaching Esplande once more, we take
the car, the top Of which bears the sign
| French Market" and riding along the
upper part Of the city, are soon near the
leyee and in sight Of long row Of dingy
buildings the one connected with the
other and the whole forming the French
Market. 1t is some distance from. but eX-
tends along the river, and IS open upon all
sides. the mildness OF the climate, even III
winter. permitting this exposure to the
weather Decidedly foreign in appearance,
and retaining all its original features, 1t
forms am interesting relic Of early French
times. The sidewalk in front Of the mar
ket IS crowded with vendors OF fish and
vegetables, their stores scattered about
them and their voices attuned to the high
est pitch, either bargaining with Gus
toner or assailing passer-by. The
interior presents quaint scene. All
nationalities commingle, although the
French seem 10 predominant. AT the
! various stalls every commodity Is sold
fish, meat. vegetables, dry goods, clothing
millinery. all kinds Of fancy articles IN
deed one can scarcely think OF anything
that cannot be purchased here. Some OF
the stalls are circular in form, and as We
walk around them, we find that sometimes
all kinds OF merchandise are SOLD at the one
place. Here are vegetables, there collars
and laces, farther on crockery, toys and d
multitude of other things. Such mixture
is decidedly ludicrOus, and still there IS an
air of neatness about the market that Is
certainly commendable The coffee stands
in particular, are models of cleanliness, and
with their marble tops, polished brass
kettles in which the coffee IS made, and
glass cases containing cakes and rolls, are
extremely inviting. They are always well
patronized, for the coffee OF the French
market has long been noted for its fine
flavor, and every stranger desires TO test lis
quality Plates of gunIbo soup may also
be obtained, and its spicy odor attracts q
crowd of negroes, who surround the stand
and sip it with evident relish.
Outside the market, in a side street, fresh
doughnuts may be bought, and II IS anus
ing 10 watch The process OF making them.
\ man stands at a long table kneading the
dough and forming it into proper shape,
after which it is passed TO his wife, who
is near by, and she drops il into huge pot
of boiling lard. Being fresh and crispy,
the cakes are in great demand, and the
couple are kept busily engaged for several
hours
Returning to the market, you stumble
over Indians seated upon the floor, their
voices proclaiming in broken English the
virtues Of the varied wares strewn about
| them, or you are accosted by the peddler
with his soap or paper, or waylaid by the
fsh-woman, with her sleeves rolled above
her brawny arms and a handkerchief about
her head, who tells. you she wants money,
and won't you buy her srimps."
Such a confusion OF tongues, goaded on
by the rivalry and competition existing be
tween the different stalls make a perfect
Babel and the whole forms scene pictur-
esque in the highest degree The best
time 10 view the market is very early IN
the morning, when the cooks, mostly col
oTed, are there purchasing the days pro
visions. The airs they assume, dependent
of course upon the importance and position
of the families in which they serve, are
quite ludicrous, and they move from one
stand to another with conscious pride and
as much activity Us one can expect IN q
Southern negro
There are many scenes and objects OF IN
terest in the Crescent city, which well re-
pay the attention OF the visitor K.
New Orleans, May :, 1884.
CAPTAIN JOHN J. Dawson, late of the
I l. 10