Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-10-05
FOR THE LADIES.
ALL About THE LATE FASHIONS.
A Glimpse NJ Some New French Cossames--
Bays6sre skirts and Trained Dresses-
Trimmisgs for Dresses.

A Glimpse NJ Some New French Costumes--
Bayadsre skirts and Trained Dres.es-
Trimmings for Dresses.
Hdrper's Bdsdr, In its current issue,
says: The presence OF red and the new
bronze green Is marked feature In every
fresh importation OF French dresses. The
bright poppey red Is seen as well as that OF
the darkest dahlias. aud these are used
alone for small mantles OF velvet, but are
combined In dresses with brouze-green,
with gray, with brown, or with blue. and
also with black. For Frightening mp the
black ioileites, which modistes say are
again in great demand, young ladies wear
q skirt OF red cashmere, or OF billiard
cloth, which may be quite plain or In
stripes with black, or else laid in kilt
pleats or pleated nounces, and this serves
for the foundation skirt on which the deep
drapery Of black cashmere Is arranged.
The red skirt Is not seen except from the
sides. and there 1t Is visible from waist 10
foot or else only half this length. The apron
front may be single square-cornered
breadth Of black cashmere, faced on three
sides and hanging fat below. with some
wrinkles across the hips where IL Is caught
up TO the belt. The back drapery also
reaches TO the foot and may have an extra
half width added TO a full breadth OF the
cashmere this Is faced also, and Is pleated
IN the middle, caught up bouhantly on the
sides. and left to hang plain aud square be-
low. waist may be 8 position basque or
a round bclted waist with Tapped surplicc
front, in which red N-shapcd plastron
shows at the top. Rows OF basket-woven
braid. all black, are used by those who
want more trimming on the basque and on
the drapery. Sometimes these apron fronts
are made in Greek shape. pointing toward
one side. but this displays rather too much
Of the red skirt, which is most tasteful
when only glimpses Of 1t are seen. Plaid
woods Of red and green are used for over.
dresses with these red skirts, and the fancy
for dark green or blue draperies OF cloth or
cashmere done in this way is seen IN youth
ful toile!tes.
BAYADERE SKIRTS.
Another design introduced for gay
dresses for young women il that OF having
bayadere stripes around the skirt, and
plain fabrics for the waist and overskirt.
These stripes may be made Of velvet rib
bon. or OF wool braid, either black, self
color. or in contrasts; and there are also
dress patterns or skirts with the ground OF
glace silk, and the stripes woven around
of gay velvet and plush with gilt cords on
the edges. This Is made up very simply Ia
show the stripes well, and IL quite effective
and gay With the silk Of changeable bronze
green and red. while the stripes are OF
dark-red velvet edged with gilt threads.
The oyerdress Of plain red velvet has a
short apron Overskirt. and the velvet waist
Is made to lap from right TO left, with the
fronts gathered to give full effect while
the back is plain basque.
TRAINED DRESSES.
Trained dresses will. it is said, be more
worn this season than they have been since
short costumes were adopted for ceremO-
nious visits and for day receptions. Two
kinds Of trains are shown on new dresses;
one Of these l. the court train with square
corners. made 10 look a. II separate from
the short skirt beneath. though il is really
fastened TO il on the sides, while the second
is the plcated full train which forms the
only back Of the skirt and il caught up bout
family on the tournure round corners are
also most seen on such trains. For court
trans three breadths only are needed, and
these NAV have the middle breadth Of tig-
ured goods, usually gold brocade. while
the two outer breadths are OF the plain vel
vet OF which the eorsage is made, and these
breadths are not cut at the top, but are car
ried around the hips 10 form drapery, and
are crossed in front. Velvet is the fabric
for fulldress tOilettes with trains, and will
be worn by young women ~ well a. the
middle.aged. The plain velvet is used for
q pointed waist, which l. laced In front as
high as the top OF the darts, and Is thence
opened in V shape. and may be filled in with
a. fl...NN
be closed at the throat, there is also high
standing collar, which may lap toward the
left. with curved end like strap, and q
plastron Of the figured stuff used for the
petticoat front Is then laid on fiat from the
neck 10 high curve above the darts, under
which it disappears. On the point at the
back there are two OF three loops set,
through which the train is hooked. II the
waist + OF figured velvet the modiste takes
great care TO make the figures meet in the
seams in some way that will produce a
pretty and often new effect.
BRETELLEs, ETC.
Among the reyiyals OF old fashions bre-
telles are seen again, and are liked now, as
they give an appearance OF the long slender
waist which il now in favor. These are
simply reyeTs that pass up each side Of the
front, cross over the shoulders, and 20
down the back. where they taper to point
at the waist line.
Another fancy that adds to the apparent
length Of the waist Is that OF making the
middle forms Of the back OF different ma
teriai from the side forms, and correspond
ing 10 that used for the vest. This is seen
with figured gold and green broeades for
the vest and back, with green velvet bre-
telles outlining them, and all the remainder
Of the basque OF green velvet. For the
court train Of such dress the middle
breadth would be OF brocade, the out
side breadths OF green velvet. curving
at the top and forming drapery on the hips,
and the flat fronts OF brocade side cores,
with perhaps plain velvet breadth for
the middle. These fiat effects are seen on
all rich fabrics, because Of their richness,
which would be destroyed BY being
wrnkled and draped. One pretty way OF
finishing Il foot OF brocaded velvet skirt
front Of thee Hat breadths is to cut it ont
i'm SIX large curves instead Of squares, edge
these curves with 4 two-inch bias rutile OF
plain velvet, and let them fall on a wider
bias rufie which trims the foot OF the
foundation skirt; this ruflle at the foot i.
sometimes Sewed TO the skirt on its lowest
edge, forming sou dropping pun.
DRESS TRIMMINGS.
Black embroidered hces with scallOped
edges and embroidered net 10 match are the
new trimmings for dresses OF black silk or
satin. These laccs have very tine meshes,
on which flowers are wrought with silk.
They cost $3.50 and upward for trimming
widths, while the piece-iace is about 20
yard. Escurial laces with very thick
cord around the large figures, and the
thread laces, both real and in the excellent
French limitations are also used. and there
are still many OF the effective ietted laces
and nets employed for trimmings. The
preference, however, in Jet garniture is
now given TO gimps almost entirely OF Jet,
sometimes made Of fine beads strung TO-
gether in lace-like patterns, while Others
have larger cut beads in very WIDE garni-
ture Of points or Of palms. or perhaps there
are raised disks with velvet background
studded with large jet beads. The wide
palms and disks may be separated and set
about on the corsage OF sleeves as epaulet.
or as cuffs, and also on the panels. Sets
OF such trimmings form two panels OF
graduated size for the front or sides Of the