Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-07-27
THE PRESIDENTS TABLE.
HOW THE STATE DINNERS ARE
PREPARED.
Elegant and Costly Repasts Furnished
from the White House Kitchen-Hfs
Shelf of Choice Madeira-The Finest
Imported Cigars-The Culinary De
part systematically Arranged.
Washington Star.

Shelf of Choice Madeira-The Finest
Imported Cigars-The Culinary De
part systematically Arranged.
Washington Star.
President Arthur has far surpassed all
his predecessors IN the matter Of enter
tanning at the White House, and has set
an example of excellence and elegance in
for his successors to follow without going
pretty deep into their pockets.
Since the President first entered the
White House he has entertained his guests
most Hospitality, but it was not until the
last winter that he gave series of state
dinners which excelled any similar occa-
sion at the White House. Besides giving
the customary diplomatic, Cabinet and
judicial dinners, all the Senators and Rep
resentatives in Congress, with their wives,
were invited to sit at his table. Thus it
was that nine expensive and elegant re-
pasts were served in the state dining
room. the guests in each instance num-
bering from SO to "a. They were very
elaborate and formal affairs, and Senator
Anthony, who is recognized authority IN
such matters, pronounced them perfec-
ton. The President is not particularly
given to "the repairs Of the table" him.
self, but he is very particular always to
have before him and his guests the best
the market affords. In former admins
tratiOns it was customary to give the
state dinners in a sort of picked-up style.
There were a steward and cook, of
course, but when it became necessary to
give dinner to the representatives of
foreign gOVernmentS-critics from the best
tables of Europe-they were unequal to
to the task, and outside assistance was
always required. Thus it was that Jacobs
and Crutchett, of culinary fame, for years
superintended the preparation of the state
dinners. The cooking was nearly all
done outside and carried to the White
House in big hand barrows. This way of
doing it looked too much like having your
meals sent in; there was naturally hag-
Cling over the contracts and danger of
imposition and unsuccessful dinners.
President Arthur determined that all
entertainments given at the White House
should be gotten up in his own household.
He secured as a steward Howard
| Williams, who was for y years with ROs-
| coe COnkling, and whose ability as a man.
/ ager he well knew. Williams is q
colored man, of very fine personal ap-
/ pearance, well educated, and has made
/ triumph Of his stewardship. The Prcsi-
/ dent also recognized the fact that a
/ French cook is indispensable to big din
| ner. An Old-time Virginia cook is good
! enough for every day, and in many re-
/ spects can't be beaten, but only a French
7
/ Gensive Ornamentation necessary on state
/ occasions. Chef Forth was broGght from
New York to superintend the White
/ House kitchen, and receives salary of
! $I,S00. He was cook for John Jacob As
tor, jay Gould and Pinard, in New York,
and is truly chef.
Before President Arthur's time no more
than thirty-six people had ever been
seated at the table in the STATE dining
room. The room would not permit of an
extension Of the table lengthwise, and a
very ingenious plan was hit upon to in
crease its seating capacity. The original
width was retained in the centre, where
the President sits, opposite being the seat
| of the hostess. From these points the
sides were given an outward curved
shape in either direction to the corners,
where the extreme width was reached,
something like an hour glass, By this
means room was obtained for fifty-four
persons, whose seats were so arranged
that they would all nearly face one
another. The way in which this large
number of guests are seated without con-
fusion or mistakes isvery simple. Each
gentleman upon arrival is presented with
an envelope containing a card, upon
which is written the name of the lady he
is to escort to the table. On the reverse Of
the card is a diagram of the table, with
the seats numbered, commencing at the
! SHbIdliC0 anu VI Tic H6
numbers ofthe seats they are to occupy
are checked upon the diagram, and know
ing that the lady is to sit on his right,
the proper places are generally found at
once and without further guidance.
The series of dinners last season re-
ferred to cost at least $40 per plate. In
nearly every instance there were fifty
guests at the table, so that the actual cost
of the nine dinners was about So, 600. This
was not the extent of the Presidents hos
pitality, however, for there were quite a
number Of private dinners given during
the season to prominent persons or per-
SOnal friends. The following bill of fare
will serve as a sample of the dinners, be-
ing the menu for the dinner given tothe
diplomatic corps on Feb. last, the guests
numbering fifty:
Hultres, en- cequiIle-Chablis.
ConsOmme, a la dOrleans-Sherry.
HOrs d'9uYre-Petites Timbales a la Nilsson.
POisson-Filets Rouget la cardinal; olives.
Pommes Observation-Disclosures.
Releve-Selle de Venaison, sauce cherand,
harlcots verts, au Beurne-Grau Larse.
Entrees-Filet de Pintarde, supreme aux
truffes-Perier JOuet & Co. Terrapins la
Maryland. Chaud froid d'oiseaux la Pr
Punch-a PImperial.
ROte-English pheasants au cressOn-Cham-
saTade-NIayonnaise de celery.
Legumes-Asperge au branches, sauce hOl-
landais.
Ramequins a la Parmesane.
Entremets-Gros Bahia au rhum.
Gelee-Rubance.
Cflace-Tutti Fruit.
Gateaux-Sortis.
Cafe-Cognac, &C. The &c. meaning Ii
| queurs Of five kinds-Chartreuse, Maraschino,
Anisette' Curacao, and klrsch- Wasser.
By the above menu it will be seen that
there were over a dozen different kinds of
| liquor with the dinner. When il is re-
! hnpod fhat tho uVinnc ncfiDn ofoH
at one-third the whole cost, it will be seen
that they form no small item of expense
| in entertaining in what is called the
proper manner. President Hayes, as is
well known, never had wine at his table.
He had a number of small state dinners
during his administration, and in each of
| the last three years he gave diplomatic
| lunch. The guests We're invited to meet
| the diplomatic corps, and nearly thou
| sand family invitations were issued. The
refreshments consisted mainly of cold
| dishes, such as salads, cold meats, ETC.,
coffee, chocolate, cake, ice cream, etc.
! Those who attended these lunches did not
consider them very elegant because of the
| crowd and their push and greed. These
! three entertainments were very expensive
on account Of the number fed, though the
fact that there was no wine in the bill
| lessened their cost considerably.
A Star reporter ran across Steward
| Williams at the Whlte House the 0tner
| day and asked to be shown through the
culinary department. The steward kind
| ~ accompanied him. There are two
| kitchens, one much larger than the other,
with mammoth ranges and boilers. The
walls are hung with copper cooking uten-
| sils of every character, bright and in or
| der. In the centre of the big kitchen
stands a permanent zinc covered table,
| at which most of the manipulating is
| done. Chef Forth, about as broad as
| long, was standing at it hard at work.
He speaks English very well, and kindly
assisted in explaining the manner of do
/ ing business in his department.
"How much warning do they give you
when a state dinner is to be preparedT'
asked the reporter of Williams.
'IAbOut four days, to give us plenty of
| time to get things in shape. Lots ofprep-
arations, too, are necessary. In the first
| place the ornaments are to be made, and
| the chef here likes to make an early start
in that branch"
''What do you make them from~
stGrease. Yes, we take old candles and
melt them over time and again and mold
| figures, ETC., of various designs. The
| chef tells me that such characterization is
| largely taking the place of flowers in Eu-