Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-07-06

4 a
whistle which is slung around the
shoulder by cords and put IN the
high side pocket. The blouse basque
/ is blue with loose red front; the red
underskirt is pleated, and the blue dra-
! perry forms tabled and pointed oyerskirt
above it, the point falling to one side,
/ while the other side is open and strapped
with red. The Maine outfit further in-
cludes a wrapper Of unbleached muslin.
trimmed with scalloped turkey red
twilled cotton, a blue cloth walking dress
braided with several shades OF the same
color, a black satin and black and white
/ brocade dinner dress trimmed with escu-
rial lace and satin passementerie, and
faced interiorly with shells Of satin. a
pale blue satin combined with blue and
salmon brocade. and very rich Spanish
lace draperies, and the outfit of an anna
! teur tsherman-conr0y rod, silken lines,
! silver fish-hooks, and flies of all colors.
The costume and outfit are the property of
Madame Won StanwitZ, of the Madison
Square Theatre, who is an enthusiastic
disciple Of LEAK Walton.
REVIVAL OF OLD STYLES.
An amateur theatrical entertainment in
country house was recently the means
OF starting an inquiry into the singular
/ unanImlty Of the fashions which prevailed
in and about 1860, and those that obtain
nowadays, or are reViving. Shot silk
/ were then in their vogue. 1t was the mus
/ lin period and popllns and mohairs, fig
ured delaines and chablis, our novelties
| Of to-day, We're the popular fabrics. The
skirts were cut straight at the back, but
| gOred at the sides and in front as now
and vretelles, pelerine .capes, talmas,
/ small mantles and the like were the same,
only cut little wider in the back, not so
well shaped to the form. Fashion had
/ passed out of the wide hoop and slipper
| period, and was slowly simmering down
/ TO the ''sheath" like garments which later
inclOsed the forms of women like gloves
| and eliminated in the sstie-back."
Are we now working onr way back
| to hoops and sandaled slippers, to
bodices cut off from the shoulders
/ and short waists. to straight fingered skirts
and opened worked hose, to rosebud in
side the brims and "capesn outside the
| back of the bonnet? 1t looks little like
/ it. A novelty in skirts, by New York
manufacturer, reYives the "springs' to a
! certain extent, and will no doubt be pOpu-
/ lariZed during the coming autumn. 1t is
| known as the ''crinOlette'' skirt, and is
made of new kind of hair cloth very
| light and soft, yet elastic. The back is
4 laced under tournure which extends the
/ entire length, and is kept in position by
! the laced under part, the strings Of which
/ admit of being drawn in or expanded at
! pleasure. 1t takes the place of short
! underskirt, is indeed short and
| small dress expander in one, and although
/ rather too swarm for hot days, will be con-
venient and useful as the cooler DAYS of
| early fall approach, and something sus-
/ tanning is required to support heavier
wooden dress fabrics.
A bonnet high in front with close and a
sort of butterfly crown reappears after the
lapse Of years. 1t is strlkingly made in
black lace over red tulle with red algrette,
| gold beads upon the edge, and black and
red and gold butterfly in the depression
between the high pulled sides.
A CURIOUS CONTRAST.
We do not often hear of fashions in
connection with the departure of the
Storage passengers of an ocean steam
ship, yet there are toilets to be seen
worn by jaunty chambermaids, success
full cooks and pOrtlY hOusekeepers that
are by no means to be despised, and to
the eyes of an inexperienced, unsophisti-
Gated person would seem more striking,
not to say stylish than those worn by the
friends of the cabin passengers at the
| other end of the vessel. Red Jerseys,
braided and trimmed over, voluminous
draperies, muslin dresses of fairest tints
trimmed with lace, large hats faced with
velvet and showing long, dropping feath-
ers and small bonnets, all gilt net work,
features of the attire of the New York
domestics who went down to the
/ Celtic the other day to see their friends
! start for sshOme." The number of per-
sons who were returning disappointed or
/ going on visit, after having made COM
| Portable provision for themselves in this
| country, was astonishingly large, and
| with their friends filed the deck and
swarmed over the wharf, strange and
| motley throng. Evidently the occasion
| was fete to the girls who had dressed
themselves in all their bravery and were
not daunted by such trifies as bedding and
tin pans tied in sheets, but hustled them
on board tearing past the officials in their
! silks and ribbons and coming back ma
| iestically as persons who had done their
! duty, were earning good wages, and not
| afraid of men in or out of a blue coat and
! brass buttons.
The simplicity of attire worn by the
| rich on all public and promiscuous occa-
sions is a never-failing source of wonder
! to those who have never been rich. "Good
/ graciousl is that the daughter of Jay
/ Gouldg' asked one in tone of intense
! disappointment as quiet, modest young
| lady in dark blue cloth with a narrow
rim of linen around her throat was pointed
/ out on this same occasion as that fOrtu-
nate young woman. sFWhy, what is the
matter with her?' asked the informant.
Oh! nothing; but what is the use of be-
| ing worth $50, 000, 900 il you dress in blue
fiannel?' What indeedl
UNADoRNED BEAUTY.
/ have remarked in previous letters
upon the absence from street dress of ac-
cessories that were formerly considered
indispensable - ties, bows, cravats,
| brooches, chains and pendants, bracelets,
cuffs, wells and the like. The dress of
women, except for skirts, is now almost
as simple as that of men, and the women
who still adhere to fiuttering and gilded
furbelows upon the street are not fash
ionable women, but old-fashioned women,
or those who live at distance from the
centres Of civilization, and who are not in
rapport with the progress Of ideas, or,
perhaps, one should say, the recent
changes in the modes. But it was hardly
to be supposed that the severity i'm
posed upon promenades in public places
would extend to the drawing room,
still less to the ballroom; yet, according
to recent advices, the Newport bellies are
rigidly excluding every particle of lace
and jewelry from their satin bodices, and
exhibiting an untrimmed corsage, inno-
cent of any adOrnment save cluster of
softly tinted blush or crushed roses with
out foliage. The skirts are masses of
some soft transparent fabric-tulle, gauze,
China silk or Indian muslin-often show
ing painted or embroidered draperies; but
the finest bail dresses seen this season are
masses of delicate tulle with group Of
pale pink feathers for ornament, and a
pure satin bodice with feathers upon the
shoulders; but otherwise untrimmed save
by the group of roses at the waist.
The question is often asked-is it mere
fashion, or is it that among the highly
cultivated the savage in costume is be-
ginning to disappear? 1t is certainly
acknowledged now that earrings are not
ornamental but disfguring to pretty ears,
while they only call attention to uply ones.
Broad-band bracelets are simply barba-
rous, as they always were, and jingling
ornaments suggest very primitive tastes.
Everything is to be dropped from the fact
that there are certain misunderstanding
headdresses, mOnstrous hoops-that can
never be restored. At the same ti@ it is
not to be disputed that fashions which are
made to disguise ugliness, to create con-
fusion of ideas where clear perception
would reveal awkwardness or deformity,
ungraceful lines or absence of fine tint or
color, must always exist. Classic dress
is for beauty. Ordinary dress must adapt
itself to ordinary people. The best that
we can expect is that in time they will
get rid of the superfiuOus and not exag-
gerate the defects in the effort to conceal
them.
THE LACE DISTEMPER.
The extent to which the lace trimming