The Douglas independent. [volume] (Roseburg, Or.) 187?-1885, 1884-11-08
The Town OF Client.

Ghent is town which somewhat re-
sembles its neighbor, Bruges, although
it is to me sterner sort OF place, as
belts it with its long history of indie
pendence and revolution. 1t preserves
much of its ancient appearance through
virtue of its sturdy walls, it's splendid
cathedral and other churches. and its
antique belfry, in which the great bell
Roland still hangs, but it has not the
musty. delightful flavor of Bruges 1t
possesses, however, flavor of its own,
of which, in truth, [ cannot say any
thing in praise, for worse smell than
haunts its streets my unfortunate nose
never encountered, nor could [ in any
wise escape it until / got aboard the
train and left the town behind me.
Ghent is also associated in my mind
with the worst lunch | have yet encoun-.
tered in Europe. 1t consisted of some
strange meat, which [ am convinced
was kitten, and had been waiting for
customer quite as long as was good for
it. tasted it once, but could not take
the second mouthful, and the restaurant
keeper was severe looking. person who
seemed of sort to take offense il his
dishes were refused. did not wish to
become involved in an explanation with
strange, fierce man, and in an unfa-
miliar language, and I could not eat the
luuch for fear of dreadful internal con-
sequences. Presently the restaurant
keeper stepped out for a moment;
| drew a newspaper from my pocket,
rolled up the suspicious portion in it
and slowed it away again; the proprie-
tor came back and looked unsus-
piciously at my empty plate, and I
arose and paid him and went away; and |
am sure pity the dog or cat that found
the package in the gutter into which !
threw it as soon as I got around the cor
ner. have plenty Of reason to feel no
| agreeable emotion at thought of Client,
but in truth my memory of it is exceed
ingly pleasant, and all on account OF
my visit to the cathedral, where l went
to study Van Eyck's splendid picture
of the 'sAdoration of the Mystical
Lamb" was the only visitor to the
church that afternoon. and / had the
services of the sacristan entirely to my
self. He was a short, stout, little old
man, very wheezy from living. in the
draughty old building all his life, and
with very calm, kind and thoughtful
face. He spoke better sort of French
than most Belgians do, and although
my own knowledge of that tongue is
not profound, we got along very wei
together. He was very ready to talk o1
the treasures of art in the cathedral
and did so intelligenty and to consider
able length upon the subject of the
early system of painting in Flanders
which he had studied, as he said, in al
the galleries of the country. His ideas
were his own, and very original and
true; and it was good to hear him speak
so eloquently upon the glories of the
past, when the church was the mother
of art and foremost in all its affairs.
His tone changed, however. when he
came to modern times. 1.-The church
has lost her power he said, "and has
too much to do to hold her own against
the State, and the indifference of the
people to religious things, to find time
or means to encourage painters anC
sculptors as she once did. Beside, the
painters, like the people, have lost thu
deep faith - religion which is necessary
for the making of great paintings, anC
fear we shall never see again suct
schools as we had in the past. Cor
Boston AdUertiSer.