Morning journal and courier., 1884-02-08
Who Hire French Cooks.
WoaIthy NAbobs md Their ExPensively Arranged Cuisfae.
 From the Nav York world,1

placed at his dexter side while dining had
 just retired from repast designated by g noted chef decuisine. He was asked for the req uisites in good cook and the reason for the eminsncs of the French in that capacity Among the arts to the pursuit of which Gallic temperament Is most nicely adjusted, he said, cooking may be mentioned with the first. The refinement of taste, delicate sense of proportion, the exactness, and, well-nice- ness Is the only word-maks the French so very successful in this important branch They have subtitle ssnsitivsness of touch and
 taste as we'll as fine perception of form and color. Thus their preparations of food are refined and delicate, and so delicious to the gustatorial organs, while they delight the senses of sight and smell.
 It is g natural result of temperament and environment. to use scientific term. France produces excellent edibles and its people are fond of the best. In that country cook I serves g regular apprenticeship. He learns ! st the beginning to make pastry, and during the first year or two he receives little or nothing for his labor. In fact, he is obliged to pay in some of tho best establishments When ha has become & competent pastry cook he is taught to make sauces and dress | ings. From this time on he gradually learns l the various branches, and if fortunate he l mar become chef after working for ten years at the art. Then he pIesldes at the head of some establishment, but his work is still of the most arduous nature unless he be chef in private family.
 In hotel, restaurant or large club he has l the following assistants: Second cook roast
 cook, cold-msnt cook, first butcher, second butcher and night cook. Nearly every l wealthy family in French cities has it's chef, In Paris no establishment with any preten- sions is without this functicnary. There many gentlemen give their chefs certain
 amount of money out of which they are to furnish the table and retain the balance. This incites them to economize. Others pay a salary which amounts to 5000 francs in
 many instances-a sum which will go very far in that sunny land. Besides, there are often perquisites attached to the office. The Emperor William has a French cook named Dubois to whom he pays large ssla- ry. He is relieved every other month by an assistant and goes to Paris regularly during
 his vacation For twenty-five years he has | held this position and he nov holds the rank of commandant in the army, with none of
 the duties but all the advantages annexed,
 including retirement and pension after cer- tain age.
 In this country 8 number of families have imported French cooks and the larger hotels and restaurants have had them. for many years. But the chefs in private families are very few compared with the great number of affiuent people here.
 Among the chefs who have been here the longest are D. Piretti, now of the Park Ave nue Hotel, and Charles Renhofer, of Del monico's Twenty sixth street place, The former although an Italian by birth. has the French schooling aud has been h New York twenty six years. He was for seven years with F. Martinez in the old Maison Dore, Union Square. He cooked at one time for Mir. Sherman, the banker again for James Gordon Bennett, and he opened the Gilsey House. The Buckingham Hotel and the Un- ion club have known his art. For twenty two years Charles. Renhofer has presided over the kitchen of one of the Delmonico restaurants Hs opened the Fourteenth street house in 1866
 Among the persons who keep chef are ex-Mayor Havemeyer, for whom Jule BlVien cooks.
 Mime. Wolf employs Camilo Lopez, the only Spanish chef in New York, who former Iy worked for P. Lorillard. He receives $150 per month.
 William Astor has Lonis Cabassub. at s salary of $135 monthly.
 W. K. Vanderbilt brought hither at fancy price Parisian, by name Grsndet, to super intend his cuisine
 Cornelius Vanderbilt employs August Schelcher, whcse uncle Edward has charge of the Grand Union at Saratoga
 For F. Lorillard Victor Bafney acts as pri- vste chef at the rate of S1 600 year
 Adrieu Tsnu prepares Jay Gould's dainty dishes. His salary is about $1 400
 Emile Hederer is employed by Mrs. F. Nelson.
 Louis Peugnaud cooks for D. o. Mills and Eugene Mercier for his son. They receive $1 POO each
 David Wetmore employs Gallie.
 William H. Fearing has the services of Pierre Reitz as private cook,
 MT. Dana, when keeping house, generally employs Albert Gatti.
 Mr. Sheldon, MT. Langdon, Mrs A. T. Stewart and a number of others employ private cooks.
 The reports of the immense salaries paid here for this class of work have often been fictitious Very few private chefs receive moro than $1 300 per annum. In hotels and restaurants where their tasks are much more arduous, $2 GOO is considered fair salary.
 However, it is said to be fact not gene rally kno VII that in private family the cook makes percentage upon the price Of proVl- sions consumed, as he Is at liberty to carry the trade whither he chooses. The prepara- tion aud cooking of the food for family Is done almost wholly by the chef in person, and where the number of members IS small the highest perfection of the art can be at taine6.
 The taste of each one is known precisely and the intelligence goes far in making the dishes tempting Furthermore few DOT tions can be better served than large num- bar. So more dainty and rare luxuries can be had than most public tables are willing to keep on hand. However, the tastes of regu- lar habitues of g public table are soon learned by the chef and then there can be little difference between the two, provided the artists at the range are equally expert.
 The French cooks here say that there is every excellence in @ first class table in this city which can be found on Parisian boards. They record a great improvement In the last ten years. Not only have more and better varieties of meats and vegetables coma to this market, but public taste has improved in these matters. The great advance has been in the excellence of sauces. dressing and manner and style of service. The demand has brought supply. Many epicures who have resided abroad for extend ed periods of time have nothing but praise for the tables of the restaurateurs they frequent. .
 Among the cooks favorably known in this city are Felix Delics. of the New York clnb, and president of the Societe Oulinaire Phil anthropique; Henry Dupin, of the Union League club; Ferdinand Fere, of the Astor House Charles Lalloutte, of the Buck1ng- ham HoteI Just Lallsment of the Everett House A. Oaron, of the Hoffman House; Louis Cuppingsr, formerly of the White House.
 The cooks, as 6 class, are iovial class. The old monks are not described as more rotund, rosy and merry than these men; With their clean white caps and jackets ana smiling faces they present pictures Of pieas- ant contentment and thrift.
 The qualities which are lndlspehsAole 1o the chef of large establishment are execu- tive ability, methodical and precise habits and some Knowledge of accounts