The Anderson intelligencer. [volume] (Anderson Court House, S.C.) 1860-1914, 1884-09-11
IN FOREIGN LANDS.
Correspondence of the htclligencer

"see Naples and die," is an old Italian
saying but the modern version, "See
Naples before you die," is far more &C.
ceptable to the ordinary traveller
Leaving Rome by rail we pass through
the walls on the Southeast side of the
city, near the Porta Maggiore and for
miles as We cross the campagna or vast
plain which surrounds the city, the road
runs near the ruined arches of two of the
most famous of the ancient aquaducts.
The country through which we pass is
much more fertile than that North Of
Rome and the vegetation as we 60 South
ward appears almost tropical in its luxu-
rience. Many wretched little villages of
the present day bear names we'll known
to history, while other important towns
have entirely disappeared. Capua, 1876
miles South of Rome, once city of $780,.
900 inhabitants, where the victorious
Hannibal found in the luxury of an
Italian city more dangerous foe than
the Roman legions. and where the
insurrection of the gladiators under Spar
tacus first broke out. is now place of
but little Importance. Nearly 80 miles
farther South we reach Naples, matchless
for location, unriyaled for the beauty of
its surroundings, the pride of Italy and
its commercial metropolis. The city has
a population of about half million
and is located on the Northern shore of
the lovely bay Of Naples, sloping down
to the sea on the amphitheatre of the
hills. The enervating influences of this
eternal summer land, as we'll as the
degeneracy of the modern Italian, are
very evident in the inhabitants OF Naples
No city of all Italy has more lovely
climate, or a happier, poorer, lazier or
dirtier population. The impudence Of
the beggars who exhibit to passers-by
the physical ills which constitute their
stock in trade, is only equaled by the
contented Indifference with which all
classes seem to regard both the present
and future. All kinds of work are car
ried on in the streets, shoemakers, car.
penters, BARRIERS and others often having
their entire outfit on the sidewalk, while
the women also bring out their washing
and ironing, their sewing and knitting
into the public highway. Many locali-
ties near Naples were immortalized by
Virgil in his Eneid, and the tomb of the
great poet himself is pointed out only
few miles from the city.
Vesnvius, which lifts its fire aud smoke.
crowned summit 1000 feet above the
level of the sea, is Southeast Of Naples
and was reached by US by tramway to
Resina, which is built above the ancient
buried village Of Herculaneum, and from
thence on foot to the summit. For sew
eral miles the way lies among the vine
yards and orchards which surround the
base and crown the lower slopes of the
mountain, but these are soon passed and
we reach the lava flow of 1872 over which
the road winds for long distance. 1t is
a perfect picture of desolation. The lava
stream is nearly black and lies in great
folds and ridges, formed by the semi-Auid
mass pouring down the side of the noun.
tain and stifening as it cooled. The foot
of the cone is reached without serious
difficulty. and from this point a cable
railroad runs nearly to the summit; but
having attempted to make the ascent of
Vesuvius on foot we scorned all such
modern innovations and toied on. The
cone which surmounts the mountain is
about 1900 feet in height and is COM
posed of loose scoria and ashes, with
occasionally ridge of lava. Its sides
rise at an angle Of about forty.fve degrees
and as the ashes slip back under ones
feet at every step, the ascent is most
fatiguing. 1t WAS rs hard bit of noun
tain climbing as we had ever attempted.
From the summit magnificent pano.
rama is spread out before US. The coun.
try for miles around dotted with little
villages is seen, with Naples on the
Northwest and the beautiful bay in front,
stretching lar away to where,
Calm Capri waits,
Her sapphire gates
Beguiling to her bright estates
We descend to The "old crater" and
pick our way among the steaming, smok.
ing assures which open fac down into the
depths below. Masses of almost pure
sulphur have been deposited all around
and at aimes the sulphurous fumes are
almost overpowering. There has been no
lava overflow for some time and at the
principal opening in the Eastern part of
the crater a cone perhaps fifty feet in
height has been built up of the cinders,
scoria, etc., which at intervals of perhaps
a minute are thrown up from the open.
ing and fall in showers around. We
were soon satisfied with the horrors of
the place and the evident proximity to
the internal regions, and descending the
mountain on the Southern side we made
our way over vast beds of lava and on
through vineyards and gardens to Tore
Annunziata and from thence to the ruins
of Pompeii.
In studying the ruins of Rome and the
other cities of ancient Italy we find that
much has been lost during the wars and
political disturbances of past centuries;
but in Pompeii we find an ancient Roman
city, embalmed as it were, in ashes; thus
preserving for eighteen hundred years
not only the form of the buildings, but
every feature of the home life of the
Roman of the first century of the Christ
ian era. About rs acres, comprising
nearly ] of the space enclosed within the
walls, have been uncovered and the work
of excavation is still being carried on.
Nearly everything which can be moved,
even to the more important frescces, is
taken at once to the museum at Naples,
consequently the bare walls and deserted
streets of this city of the dead, with few
monuments, fountains, ETC., are all that
remain. The principal entrance is
through the ancient sea gate of the city ;
for although now far inland, Pompeii
was formerly seaport. The streets are
regularly laid out, the principal ones
being "a feet and those of lesser impor.
tance only IA feet in width. They are
paved with huge blocks of lava with deep
ruts worn by the chariot wheels, and at
the street corners are stepping stones for
pedestrians, nearly foot above pave