Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-11-04
FASHION GOSSIP.
sosxrTs roR WINTER WEAR.
Cwsvsn, Feneses In Millinery = BonHe'e
No.. .sA 1rnss> M. A. hha ns n nd Ntrlnas.

and thc small fsh-wiie poke, are the three
shsnes that have thus far found favor for
autumn and winter bonncts. The clpote
NAV have q round or soft crown,
hut IL IL considered more stylish when
the crown fiat and short, win per-
bars an inverted V or curve at the lover
psr, 10 show the hair when turned upward
from the napc Of the neck. The milhners
make the shape 81 these capotes depend ON
the way the hair is 20 be worn during the
winter, kngihcning the crown for those
who retain the lew coil. so that the crown
will rest upon this coil or knot. For gen.
sral wear dark felt and also soutachc bon
nets are adopted in these small shapes. and
the trimmings rcmsin Of the simple KIND
already dcscribed-yiz., with q windmill
bow of many short ends near The top
81 tie front, on else cluster
al fancy feathers, wings, or tufts
IL placed there, and tuesc, with The velvet
ribbon strings. are all that i needed for
piaip bonnet. For those who wear duty
lair the edge 81 the bTim Il as plain as a
simple fold Of velvet can make IL. bat for
those who can wear smoother hair above
The forehead there is q small roll on the
edge MADE OF braid. beads, or velvet. or
yefhaps this front is rolled back Ike
small ooronet. and - smoothly COW
cred with velvet. Lace fronts slightly
gathered are also much used. For
economists who have summer bonn,ts win
the velvet pulled front LETT in good c1ndi'
ton. the best plan Is 10 cover the straw
crown with q bit ~ embroidered cloth or
q velvet 10 match cloth costume. or in
the same color rs The velvet on the brim;
" the straw crown Is Objectionable on ac-
souni Of It's shape or weigh. the milliucr
can remove l, and put in n buckram crown
10 be covered with the new fabric; the
velvet brim that has been found becoming
during the summer need not he altered in
the kast. and the crown piece can he
bought for a dollar, making the expense
very slight
COMBINATION EONNETs.
Combinations prevail for bOnnot' as well
% dresses and cloaks. almost all Donne's.
except those OF felt, being made Of two
materials. Thus dressy velvet bOnnctS
have figured velvet for the crown, aud
plain velvet for the bTinl, or else one OF the
rich col embroidered stntIs forms the
brIm, and the crown is plain. The novelty
for dress.bonncts is the entire bonnet made
Of white AngoTa lace. in which many gold
or silver threads are interviewer. These
are made moe becoming bv usln"
velvet puG on the brim, which in these
drcssy hats Is slightly pointed. though
not In the exaggerated high points OF the
bsh-wifc poke aud the trimming - usually
Of lsrge flowers made OF white velvet aud
gold.,einod. a. fastidiOus women are be-
rinping 10 Object 10 fancy feathers because
they are 40 generally used. White velvet
embroidered with gold or silver threads is
also chosen for the crown OF dress bonneis,
and this H. laid IN two lengthwise folds, or
in two box pleats. or put on smoothly.
The brim sets close 10 the head, and is
plainly covered with velvet Of becoming
color. and may have an aigrette OF
marabout and gilt. or small humming-
birds In cluster, or velvet flowers ;
but sometimes the strings of velvet and a
ecekade bow are all that is needed TO COM
pIcie II. For black or dark-cOOrcd velvet
bonntts there are crowns that have out
lire figures done in GILT threads, or
else the crown is beaded if the velvet
cannot be matched to imported crowns.
Nails or pins Of gilt or Of dark metal and
gilt ale thrust t1iekly in the torsade OF
velvet which edges the brim OF the velvet
bonnet. and sometimes this velvet twist is
merely wrapped around with jet or gut |
beads.
THE POINTED FOXES. TURBANS, ETC.
For young and piquant faces the fish
wife poke is used. with its pointed bnm |
turned back slightly. and filed in with a
bow OF CAV velvet or Of gIlt braid. This is !
moi The large poke worn last winter but Is
80 small that il adds very little more 10 the |
size Of The head than the smallest capOte. |
A full crown OF dark velvet, with the brim |
covered with lace-either silk. ADgOra |
wool. or gilt lace--makes "A youthful and 1
pretty poke bonnet 10 wear on dress Occa-
Il. n lao oh hi reference
TO the wrap or The costume that accom-
panics it.. The ericsson green with yellow
tipgos appears as part Of such pokes, and /
poppy-red velvet ribbon Is much used for /
the sauey.loOking bows that trim them. /
For general wear. young ladies who prefer /,
round hats have the felt, or else cloth-coVcr- !
ed. crown quite high and sIoping, with a /
narrow brim covered with velvet. and per I
bav. merely . band ~ silk or gill gilloOn |
around The crown. aud a large cluster OF :
fabey feathers TO the LETT OF the front. .
These hats are set back on the head far 4
enough To show something Of the /
front hair. GAY soft turhans. with plid (
silk. striped or brOcaded crown, and /
velvet hrim are also worn with wool F.
suits on the streets by young ladies. /
Black or LTOwn-NeiYct round hats have /
a novel trimming in bands Of white |
Angora wool, and new English-trimmed I
hats oi felt have wide Scharf Of changCa- /
bic silk around the crown. with the ends OF .
The scarf pointed and stamped wlihantique ,
figures arranged upright in front with .
some velvet points between in very deco .
ratiye way. Ecru, drab, and brown are .
the cOlorS most used IL felt hats. and IN 4
decd Blown is the leading color in millinery .
This season. because it is the fancy nov /
TO eombine II with various colors-with /
scarlet, garnet, yellow, blue or green-aad !
in this way the brown bonnet may be worn
With the greatest number Of dresses.
RIBBONS. STRINGS, ETC.
Uncut velvet ribbons are used on very
rich bOnnets. and are most effective when
made up In bows Of short loops and with
notrhed ends. They do not answer for
strings to be tied 10y the wcarcr, ~ they
are too easily marrCd. Erise velvet rib
Ions are also among the expensive novel;
ties. and on some OF the most stylish
imported bonnets the string, are made
Of ribbon that j. half IT, width OF
watcTed sill. while the other hall j. vel
vet; stin Others have p!1in watercd
ribbon that l. alike on both sides
Velvet strings two inches wide are made
just long enough for the weaIor 10 lie in
small low below the throat ard leave a
notchcd end each Side Of the bow; " the
strings ERE longer, the ends cur under IN
= WY that looks slOyenly; this curling.
however. can be removed and the pile re-
newed hy holding the velvet In the steam
that issues from the spout OF a kettle o!
boiling water. The throat-bOw of bias vel
vet il preferred by many. a il keeps in
share better than the straight nhbOn-
strings; this bow j. now made very SMALL
Of two loops. and two end, closely strap
ped In the middle. There Is also
youthful fashion Of having sin-
yle string Of velvet or OF satin ribbon
passing under the chin and fastened by
n hook and loop under the left side without
bow, ends, or ornament Of any kind. Vel
vet tonne,s hft over from last winter, II
defaeed by rain or snow, ear have the spots
hidden by sewing on beads in dots.
branches. or crescents; or else embroidery
OF silk Of the same color a. the velvet, with
some eilt threads added, may he used in
lozenge-sbaped figures. or in blocks or dia-
mspds. For midwintcr, fur bands and
entire brims will he used on cloth and vel
vet bonnets. also with the soft felt
crowns that are made OF what il called felt
cloth. and with the sOutachc crowns that
show many rows Of SOutachc put on in
irregular and zigzag styles. TOqucs OF
cloth with soft crowns and turncd-up vel