The Red Cloud chief., 1884-07-25
Cool Garments for the House.

Wrapper-gOwnS that may serve either
for neglige day dresses or for night
gowns are shown in the Mother Hub
bard shape made of lawn or cambria;
those with tucked yOkes, a standing
tucked rufle on the neck, and two ruff
fleS on the sleeves, also around the
skirt, are very neat and inexpensive.
For those who prefer colOred gowns.
pale blue or pink Scotch Bingham of
solid color is used for all OF the gown
but the yoke, which is made of white
embroidery in open compass. wheel. or
star patterns. More dressy ~princesse
wrappers of white null, with a Vatican
fold behind shirred to the neck, and
falling wider open as it reaches the
floor. This Vatican fullness is sewed
in the middle seam of the back as far
down as the t%Ournure, and below this it
adds to the width of the skirt. Instead
of beng held in darts, the fronts Of
many wrappers are merely shirred at
the waist line, and ribbons inserted in
the under-arm seams are tied across. A
deep gathered t1Ounce or two narrow
fiounces tucked and edged with the
patent Valenciennes lace add 4 graceful
finish to the skirt of such gowns: these,
however, must not cross the Vatican
plat White figured satteen and the
gay figured sattcens on light ecru or
cream grounds are much liked for
Mother Hubbard gowns with the yoke
and sleeves of embroidery. For silk
gowns foulard and surah are used at
this season in delicate shades of blue.
pink. or pale pearl gray. with some
Oriental lace for trimming arranged in
q full frill around the neck and wrists
aud down the fronts. The loose Fedora
fronts of soft dropping puffs are seen
on the tea gowns Of white China silk
or of light surah; these are made to fit
smoothly in the back. and may be in
princessc shape-all in one piece-or
else theys consist of q deep matinee
jacket. with a separate skirt TO complete
it. The Fedora matineeS are also shown
of these light silks to wear over white
muslin skirts.
Tucked SPENCER waists of white lawn,
linen, or null are again made to e
with skirts of silk, surah, or grenadine.
These garments are liked for comfort
by elderly ladies and those who. having
to consult economy in laundry bills, do
not wear entire dresses of wash goods,
and less neglige-looking than dressing
sacques. The white linen lawns with
out figures are excellent for these spen-
GERS, s they e cool and wash and
wear we'll they are also made of the
new India linens that are really cotton.
but woven of irregular threads that re-
semble linen. French nains0ok, null,
and bishops lawn spencers are made
with eight or tel marrow tucks down the
back and front, with q feather stitching
for decoration covering the sewing OF
each tuck. These are the old-fashiOne.'
helted waist, called bv some the French
waist, by others the fan waist, and by
most the spencer. They are gathered
to a belt that may be merely . facing
inside around the waist line, CIR may be
! stitched on the outside. and there
is a short space below to pass
under the dress skirts. A double
standing rufie or q square turned
over collar to match the waist
completes the neck. and the sleeves are
trimmed to correspond. All the old
ways of trimming these waists are re-
rived. such as inserted embroidery OF
lace Down ba K and front. and puffs of
the sheer lawn. with ribbons run under
them. For quite young and slender
ladies a yoke and sleeves are made OF
embroidery or of lace. or Of tucks. and
the muslin is gathered to it with an
| erect ruilie. and again gathered below
in the belt: this gives the effect of \
guimpe. and is more dressy than the
plain spencer.
Embroidered muslin in open wheel
and star patterns. or in stripes that rep
resent rows of assertion, is made mp in
easily fitted basques, and edged all
around with scailoped embroidery Of
| the same design sewed ON without any
fullnesS. The sleeves and collar are
similarly scalloped. and this garment
is worn in the house with plain muslin
| skirts, or else with those of surah or
| other silk. There are also pretty
.lsscques Of sheer null made with shir-
hing in the back and front at the waist
while others sre fitted by side
ecr in the hack. and ara loose in
fro.} nth ribbons to tie sewed IN thu
s;Ss $ y he xaist-HarpeHs Bo