Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-07-05
Madison Square theater. who is an enthusiastic
disciple of Isaac " alton.

and those that obtain nowadays. or are reviving.
Shot silk were then in their vogue. 1t was the
muslin period and pOpGns and mohairs. figured
dc!a.nes and chaGlis. our novelties of to-day,
we're the popular fabrics. The skirts were cut
straight AT the back, but gored at the sides and
in front as now. and vreteIles, peleTne Capes.
tamas, small mantles and the like were the
same. only cut little wider i'm the back. not so
well shaped to the form. Fashion had passed
out Of the wide hoop and slipper period. and
was slowly simmeriDg down to the sheath
Ike garments which later enclosed the forms of
women like gloves and eliminated in the tie
back Are we now working our way back to
hoops and saudaled slippers. TO bodices cut off
! from the shoulders. and short waists, to straight
fingered skirts and open worked hose,
to rosebuds inside the brims, and
'capes'' outside the back of the bonnet?
ii looks a little like it. A novelty in skirts by
New York manufacturer reviyes the springs
to a certain extent. and will undoubtedly be
popularZcd during the coming autumn 1t is
known as the ''Crnoette" skirt and is made Of
Few kind CT hair cloth. very light and soft. yet
elastic. The back is laced under a tournure.
which extends the entire length. and is kept in
position by the laced under part, the strings of
which admit of being drawn in or expanded at
pleasure 1t takes the place OF a short under
skirt. is indeed skirt and small dress eXpander
in one. and. although rather too warm for hot
days, will be convenient and useful as the cooler
days of early fall approach and something sus-
dress fabrics.
bonnet high in front with close and a sort
OF butterfly crown. reappears after the lapse of
years. 1t is Strikingy made in black lace over
red tuile. with red aigrette. gold beads upon
the edge. and black red and gold butterfly in
the depression between the high pulled sides.
A CURIOUS CONTRAST.
We do not often hear of fashions in connec-
tion with the departure of the steerage passen-
4 Sfaan oh fbar Toll.
to be seen worn by jaunty chambermads. sue
cessful cooks and portly hOusekeepers that are
by no means to be despsed, and to the eyes of
an inexperienced and unsophisticated person
would seem more striking, not TO saw Stylish
than those worn by the friends OF tine cabin
passengers at the other end of the vessel Red
jerseys braided and trimmed over vOluminous
Grapcries, muslin dresses of fareSt tntS
trimmed with lace large hats faced with velvet
and showing long, dropping feathers. and small
bOnnets. all gilt network and roses. These
were some Of the features OF the attire of the
New York domestics who went down to the
Celtic the other day to sec their friends start for
''h0me." The number of persons who were
either returning disappointed. or going on a
visit, alter having made a comfortable provision
Tor themselves in this country. was astOniSh-
lngly large. and. with their friends. filed the
deck and swarmed over the wharf, a strange
and motley thrOng. Evidently the occasion
was a fcte to the girls who had dressed them
selves In ali their bravery, and were not daunted
by such tries Us bedding and tin pans tied in
sheets. but hustled them on board tearing past
the officials in their silks and ribbons and COM
Ing tack ma1estica.ly. as persons who had done
their duty. were earning good wages and not
afraid of man in or cut of q blue coat and brass
buttons
The simplicity of attire worn By the rich on all
public and promiscuous occasions is never
failing source of wonder to those who have
never been rich. Good graciOusi is that the
daughter of Jay Gould?" asked one in q tone of
intense disappointment as quiet modest young
lady i'll dark blue cloth with narrow rim of linen
around her throat was pointed out on this same
occasion as that fortunate young woman. "Wiy
what is the matter with herr" asked the infJr-
mant. "Oh. nothing; but what is the use Of
being worth fifty million dollars if you dress in
blue flannel" What indeed.
UNADORSED BEAUTY.
have remarked in previous letters upon the
absence from street dress of accessories that
were formerly considered indispensab!c-tes,
bows. cravats brooches. chains and pendants
in bracelets, cuffs, wells. and the like The dress
OF women. except for skirts. is now almost as
simple az that ot men. and the women who still
adhere to tluttcrn@ and gilded furbelOws upon
the street are not fashionable women. bat old
fashioned women or those who live at q dis
tance from the centers OF civilization, and who
III rapport Will Tie progress Ul lPa-
perhaps. one should say the recent changes in
the modes But it was hardly to be supposed
that the severity imposed upon promenades In
public places would extend to the drawing
room. still less to the ball room; Yet according
to recent adyices the Newport bellies are rirdly
excluding every particle of lace and iewelry from
their satin bOdices and exhibiting an untrimmed
c0rsage. innocent Of any adOrnment save a Gus
ter OF softly tinted blush or crushed roses with
out foliage. The skirts are masses OF some soft
frgr GrtDrn rrff al
Indian musIin-often showing painted or en-
hroidcred draperies; but the finest ball dresses
seen this season are masses of delcate tulle with
group OF pale pink feathers for ornament. and
pure satin bodice with feathers upon the should
ers. tut otherW Use untrimmcd save by the proup
of roses at the waist.
The question Is often asked: Is il q mere fash
lon. or is 1t that among the highly cultivated
the savage in costume is beginning to dlsap-
pear! Ii ls certainly acknowledged now that
earrings are not ornamental. but dishgurin. to
pretty ears, while they only call attention to
ugly ones. Broad band bracelets are simply bar
barous, as they always were: and juggling Orna-
inents suggest very primitive tastes. Every
thing is to be hoped from the fact that there are
certain misunderstanding bead-dresses. mon
strouS ho0pS-that can never be restored. At
the same time 1t Is not to be disputed that fash
ions which are made to disguise ucness to Gre
ate confusion OF ideas where clear perception
would reveal awkwardness or deformity I'M
STacelut lines or absence OF nne tint or color,
must always exist. Classic dress is for beauty;
ordinary dress must adapt itselfto ordinary peO-
pie. The best that we can expect is that in time
they viii get rid OF the superuous and not eX-
agGerate the Cefects in the effort to conceal
them.
THE LACE DIsTEMPER.
The extent to which Tie lace trimming mania
Is carried would indicate a short life if lace itself
was not so becoming, and If so many lovely ideas
had not been produced in laccs of modest cost
as to almost insure some degree of permancncy
to their existence. The lace Oyerdress or rather
the lacc-cOvercd dress is now already three sea-
sons old. yet 1t is more popular even more fash
lonable than ever. Perhaps its continued good
fortune arises from the fact that it must be al
ways more or less restricted, and really requires
daintincss H. the wearer aud in every detail OF
the toilet. The newest lace dresses (black)
are made over soft satin surah, and
combined with velvet striped grenadine.
which Is used for panels straight
short apron and bodice. The latter has full
shirt front of lace and surah The front is
formed of lace fiounces over silk. either puffed
or iiounced; the back is draped and puffed on
each side the deep rounded tab of velvet, which
forms the center of the basque The newest
parasols are very large and entirely covered
with escurial lace. which descends beyond the
edge, even when this has scallOped spring
finish. The interior is lined with shot silk or
satin surah in lovely primrose and gold violet
and pink, or strawberry and amber tints The
Innings are gathered The sticks are of twisted
natural wood. with circular tops ornamentpd
with bows OF wide ribbon. For country walk
! ing wear there are huge crctonnes. and for