Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-07-27

soMEFxnisfsg FASHIONS.

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Features efrnsxpsssivs Dresses-Sswsytfs
sna nssisus.
H0rptf's Bosar. In Its current issue,
aays; The revival ci belted waists and the
sinxie full skirt greatly simpiifes tho work
Of ladies who make their own dresses, and
also lessons the expense, ~ only ten OF
twelve yards Of material are required.
This ssyie 4 especially suited 10 the wash
FOODS of the summer season, but II will al
10 be apprcpriasc 60 the mohairs, pcplins,
etc. that manufacturers announce for the
next winter. These stiff. wiry fabrics viii
not he gathered 20 the belt as soft materials
are, bus will be hung in pleats that
form lenethwisc flowing folds. and they
Win be trimmed with Nat bias folds,
or with horizontal tuckt, or APP
pliQue trimmings. instead Of being
cd o. flounces. This simple full dress
viii probably continue To grow In favor, as
French modistes are tending toward
straight effects IN their richest costumes.
and giving the boufrant appearance by
means Of tournures and extenders sewed
inside the foundation skirt instead OF outer
drapery. The summer fannels or the mo-
hair dresses for travelling. when made by
q modiste. even in the simple manner Just
noted, win probably have foundation
skirt. a. the modisies think dress entirely
too simple without this lower skirt. and
they insist that II will not hang well. The
amateur tircssmaker. however, experiments
for herself, and finds the soundston-skirt
may be dispensed with In wool goods, az
IL always should be IN wash dresses.
Thus breadth Of double-width flannel
win serve for the front, and should be
sloped slightly narrower steward the
top and gathered there; the back will
require width and half OF this wide
flannel, and should be held in two double
box pleats at the top. The back brcadths
ere only one or two inches longer Than the
middle Of the iiont breadth. The top OF
the front should be curved in by sloping to
suit the weafer's figure, and II there Is
too much fuluoss in front, either two or
four darts may be taken few inches long
and each two inches wide 10 take away
some OF the surplus breadth. This front
breadth extends very Far back on the sides,
leaving only about two eigbths Of the belt
behind 20 be covered by the thickly-foidcd
box.pleafs. These pleats should be pressed
their whole length, but should be tackled
ncToSs 10 tape only once about three or
four fingers below the belt.
The prettiest trimming for such cress
Is tucks two inches wide placed half their
width apart, and In any number from
three to twelve as the wearer fancies. A
hem OF the same width as the tucks is SUI
fcient trimming, but there may also be
narrow pleated frill at the foot. The width
az such skirt Is three and half yards
for ladies Of medium size. The pleated
Norfolk Jacket OF flannel made single
breasted, with some narrow tucks and
a wide belt. is the waist for such
a wool dress. IL this IL not easily
fitted. wool jersey will complete
the skirt as a suit. II the wearer must
have drapery about the hips, she can
have a very simply shaped apron-oyer-
skirt, or else one dropping open on the
left side 10 show the tucks OF the lower
skirt, or else this may be merely an apron
confined 10 the front and sides, and caught
by six or seven pleats lust below the belt
on.eaeh SIDE. and joined to the boX-pleated
back breadths. STILL another design for
stout figures Is that OF having q round
waist, or else round back with short
pointed basque In front and the back
breadths are then made six inches
too long, are pleated Ike n ruche ut
The top, and this plsating is set on the
back ct the waist line. II II is pre-
ferred 10 pleat the skirt all around. the IA
vorite way Is 10 hem and tuck IL, making
the tucks near the foot rs q border, and lay
The whole skirt In lengthwise broad-side
pleats, each fourth Of a yard wide. Sashes
OF the material tucked across the end are
worn by slender young ladies'. The point
ed yoke. with the material tucked or pleat-
cd below IL, and also pleated 10 the belt,
suits slight figures, and is used in wool
goods. A waist-lining OF silesia should be
neatly fitted. and the yoke and pieats laid
upon 1t smoothly.
WASH DRESSES.
Wash dresses have the skirts made like
tnoso uf wool dresses Just described, but
there is more variety in their belted waists.
These waists are without lining, and every
seem should be neatly folded under in what
Is called the English hag-seam, that leaves
no raw edges. The shrred yoke is re.
yival OF an old fashion that is very pretty
for lawn, batIste, and other thin goods.
The yoke and blouse are all In one, aud
may lie cut out by the pattern used for the
fan. waist. or the spencer, by allowing two
or three Inches greater breadth on the
fronts before the hems are turned
over for the hutton.holes and buttoss.
There are then rows OF gathers, or
else fine cords are run In across the top
an inch apart. and these are drawn up TO
The breadth OF the shoulders. Short yoaes
are much more graceful than very long
onss. TIE euimpe yokes OF white or other
color, with sleeves to match, are worn by
quite young ladies' and misses, but instead
OF being 'parate. es they are in children's
frocks, these are made 10 form part OF the
dress waist. Lengthwise tucks OF white !
muslin. solid embroidery, or else lace, are
the materials used for guimpes OF wash |
dresses. The spencer waist. which ~
plain on the shoulders and gathered to
a bslt, 10 liked for large figures. Sleeves
cannot he too simply finished, as they are
not easily washed and Kept In shape ;
straight tiuned-back cuffs Of embroidery, =
irill Of lace, two ruffles OF the dress goods.
or a large single ruffe sewed to the edge OF
tie sleeve, which l. rounded at the wrist,
are sufficient trimming. For more orna-
mental dresses, insertion may he laid In
three or five rows from the arm-hole down
half way TO the elbow. The neck must also
be simply finished; and yet all that Is
needed except lisse frill, or a linen col
lar, or lace rufile) must be there; thus the
collar may be n standing band OF Insertion,
or else a Byron collar OF the material, or
entirely Of embroidery, under which a
ribbon may be passed and knotted in
front. II an apron over-skirt Is used,
there should be five loops and five pearl
buttons in row down each side, quite Tar
back, and by these the apron can be draped;
some tapes underneath are best for the back
drapery. Any OF these designs are simple
enough for a shilling calico or twenty.
five cent lawn, gingbam, or percale, but
they are also made up in dressy batistes-
pink, white, OF blue-and in sprigged or
dotted white muslin, trimmed with en-
broidery and Oriental lace. A velvet stand.
Ing collar and velvet belt, with or with
out bow, are added TO dressy white mus
lin froeks.
BAsoUEs, TRIMMED SKIRTS, ETC.
Ladies with large figures must eondue
THEMSELVES to smoothly.fiited basques and
polonaises even for muslins, ginghsms, and
percales, as these need not add anything to
the apparent size. The short Marie An
toinette polonaise, with pleated skirt,
either tucked or edged with embroidery. II
graceful design for organizes, lawns. and
ginghams. This short pou1ant polonaise,
made without Inning, may be smoothly
fitted 10 the figure by darts and side
forms low over the hips, or else the
front darts may be omitted. and
half sash OF ribbon or OF the mate.
rial may be sewcd In the under-srm
seams, and tied In front or on the left
side. in the middle snd sideform seams
some additional width Is added on the
tournure, the fronts are rounded open from
the waist line, aud the length Is shortened
by small loops and small buttons OF thread