Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-11-01


poses alone, and the straight curtain. va!ence.
recessed and lifted styles of the skirts and
draperies suggest the forms and the uses to
which they have been applied.
NEW TAILOR MADE DRESSES.
Redfern, the famous English tailor. now sup
plies quite number of ladies in New York,
and particularly in Boston, with his specialties.
He Is the tailor to the Princess Of Wales and her
three daughters. and his styles retain more of
the true tailor spirit and finish than many
Others who have so long followed the lead the
B3OdjSte as to have lost all distuctiyeness. their
models simply putting into cloth. where they
are lnsutferable. the faults and vagaries which
may be pardoned in materials more ephemeral.
Among the Redfern costumes recently received
by family In which there are number of girls
was camefs hair in Lincoln green striped with
velvet and made with very simple scarf
drapery. which formed a short apron and folds
at the back over the velvet stripes OF the skirt.
Between the stripes We're clusters of folds form
ng knife pleatings which alternated with the
stripe. The bodice was plain, Jersey shaped.
and formed an inserted plat at the
back. The front was buttoncd straight
down until within two inches of the edge.
where 1t was cut away diagonaly. An Officers
straight standing collar surrounded the throat
and three buttons finished the sleeves at the
wrist where they were cut quite close. suit of
gold brown cloth was made in panels edged with
-
panels were also edged with soft tur, and soft
fur formed the vest. or that portion of it which
the jacket trayersed in straight lines of narrow
brown silk braid with gold threads left visible
The front Ofthe skirt formed the plain part of
panel, the back was laid in straight plaits with
short drapery, and the sides and bottom OF the
cloth panels opening over the velvet were in
addition to the fur hOrdered beyond it. with
several lines of braid like that upon the Jackets
band of fur finished the neck and wrists.
r-np ham Ill nnt rT-,. l.
lined with satin. and decorated with graduated
coils OF braid. five in series. forming funnel
shaped ornaments. which were placed at regIl-
lar distances dOwnthe frOEt and round the bot
tom OF the garment. The sides were plain and
open over Killed skirt of dark red wool The
back was laid IN wide, close side plaits, and
made rather boiBdnt
The ornaments assembled the sides of the
bodice, but occupied reversed position. the
wider part coming to the top. aud small one
Was also placed upon the back of each sleeve
charming gown was made from a heather
mixture in old blue and black The skirt of this
dress displayed in the front two deep, fine
hlited fiounceS. SurmoGnted by q small round
shawl-shaped apron. braided with black in a fat
open pattern The pattern was repeated upon
the edge of the vest-Shaped basque, upon the
straight standing collar and the back OF the
narrow wrist. The back of the skirt was draped
up very gracefully on the front of the basque
according TO order. A cloth togue with braided
crown and band. composed of folds put on as
Irregular loops and decorated with cocks
plunles accompanied this dress.
For slender girl of sixteen still in the school
room there was lovely dress of wood brown
serge, soft finished and ornamented with little
sprays of leaves embroidered and shaded Ia nat
ura autumn cOlOrS rather softer and more sub
dued than those to which we are accustomed
The dress was jersey shaped; the skirt laid in
rather wide folds. the scarf end brought up over
one hip, the right, while upon the left a spray
OF vine leaves with tendrils was apparently
thrown. little vine of the same surrounded
the neck, and the pretty and graceful ornament
alton was repeated at the top of the sleeve in
diagonal lines and at the wrists.
brown WOODEN travelling dress was accor-
dion pleated and had draped everskirt the
apron pointed at one side and laid in diagonal
folds This as well as the Jacket bodice was
stamped with brown leather in scroll pattern
outlined with gold and chenille SO fine as to be
barely visible stamped vest of soft leather
accompanied it and each was quite independent
of the costume. There were several independent
vests and jackets-One of the latter, braided
across the front and trimmed with Astrachan
cloth to match. There were also several hats
and bOnnets of cloth, very simple but very styl-
ish in shape and finish.
habit of dark heather green cloth was re-
marked as being exceedingly plain and with
very short skirt. What length there was, and
it was only enough to cover the feet was
just enough OF fulness and folds to save it from
absolute severity. The bodice was outlined by
band set on to the edge and shaped over the
hips, the back showing an inverted plait
instead OF the usual coat shape. A small roll
ing collar revealed little edge of tie and the
straight standing collar which has held its place
for long time. A high silk nat was sent with
the habit, below which the hair must be massed
at the DaPe OF the neck.
The finish, the workmanship Of this entire
a GDr or tnil
ton, and the work upon them of the finest
Buttons. cords, facings, Innings seemed to have
been made for each one, and the absolute
accuracy OF every line and measurement
was marvellous feat beside the slip
shod work so often seen, and which
considers an inch or two, more or less, in
the height, length, or breadth of band. sleeve,
skirt, or waist of no Importance and only OBJ
jected to by 'fussy' people These ignorant
workers. who could not earn living if women
were trained to accuracy, and to know a good
tnlng when they see 1t, are responsible for much
OF the minor misery Of the world and fortu-
nately for themselves, never can know all the
irritation, discomfort. and nervous anxiety they
cause 1t is only of late years that even inteli-
gent women begin to realize how much sweet
temper, charm of manner in society freedom
from embarrassment and the ''divine sense" of
harmony, which belong to some women depend
upon the gentle influence of well-cut and we'll
made gown, free from the too much or too little,
which seems, in short to belong to its wearer--
to have grown upon her. There is no question
as to the great Improvement which has taken
place Of late years, and 1t Is all owing to the
fact that women who think at all are beginning
to think out the question of dress for them
selves and apply to 1t the common sense they
are accustomed to bring to bear On other things
THE NORTHUMBERLAND DRESS.
Several correspondents have written asking
an opinion on the Mother Hubbard gown, and
the reason for the disfavor with which it has
been treated. The general sentiment on the
part of these ladies Is in its favor, and one re-
marks that it is modest. convenient and sani-
tary, and she hopes never to be without one or
more Tor underwear. This sentiment is Cordial
" endorsed The objection made to the Mother
Hubbard, and the storm of criticism it has ex-
cited in some places. and on the part of some
persons who know nothing and usually care less
about dress has been caused by the ignorance
and folly of some young women who take sim
pie loose gown. only suitable for the house.
make it up In thin, perhaps transparent mate
rial, and parade 1t in the street. This was done
last summer In town and city streets, and one
could but respect the feeling that prompted in
dignant fathers to make public protest against
il.
The dress demanded for the street NOWADAYS
is close, dark, unobtrusive. Even In warm
weather a soft color or shade of color Is chosen
nothing striking or that can be blown about by
the wind. Beted in and made of close material
the Mother Hubbard would not be Objectionable
for the street on the score of indelicacy but the
general sense requires neat fitted garment
which has not so much the appearance of DIS
hGtlHe and informality. and there is no reason
why the general sense OF fitness and decorum