Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1884-06-14

are still in vogue; these, however, only
look we'll with an entire black toilet, or il
some very dark one, in which there is some
color relievsnce.
Among the latest designs for evening
| fens is one with charming ornament CON
| sisting of q bouquet of fresh flowers fast
| ened 20 the frame. These are placed In q
| small metal holder, which by means of q
| spring holds the stalks of the flowers fast
| to the fan.
Taste at present seems to incline toward
rich material made in great simplicity. The
wealthiest and most fashienable women wear
| but little trimming ON their street costumes
| most of these being tailor-made, and alto
gether perfect in the matter of fit and
| draping.
Tucks have by no means gone out of
| fashion and are placed upon both woolen
and cotton dresses. Tucked dounces are
pretty, especially for light materials. The
| trimming of the lower skirt of an ecru en-
broidered lawn consists of a broad Hounce
| edged with the embroidery and showing
three tucks This founce falls gracefully
| over a knife plating.
All the summer bonnets are more or less
transparent. If of straw the braid is looped
and SO shows spaces between. There are
also very fine gilt wire bonnets, which are
semi transparent, and countless bonnets
| made of jetted net, chenille, dotted gauze
and lowered tul!e which displays the ar
rangement of the hair beneath. High
square and peak-shaped crowns alone are
seen.
Russian vests are among the latest now
elites. They are tight fitting, plated like
an ordinary plastron, and taken IN around
the belt under a deep sash OF plain or
plated silk. The plastrons are generally
of silk or of wooden goods to match the
dress Sometimes the sashes are OF colored
Grape. This vest will replace the tallleur
vest so much worn last summer, and VIII
be seen under all open jackets.
The round full bodice of twenty years ago
is re sived and is almost universally becom-
ing. It is advisable in making this to adopt
the plan pursued for boys shirt waists, and
let the bodice extend for three or four inches
below the belt, to avoid the danger of its
slipping up at the waist. This style Of cor
sage is especially pretty for thin dresses,
such as null, nainsook and the new printed
Swiss muslins 1t will also be much used for
fine woolens for the seaside, and is above all
others the favorite model for misses and
young ladies'
For midsummer wear complete costumes
do not require extra wraps Nevertheless,
they will be worn by ladies who imagine they
look better in outside coverings than they do
in closely fitting bGsques or jackets, and for
all such nothing can be prettler or more
dressy thaa the dainty novelties in lace man
ties which are even now in the work rooms
of q Nov York establishment and have not
yet been placed upon exhibition. These
mantles are in black white Llama lace
made up over surah or changeable silk or
satin, in black, white or any of the tashlona-
BILE brilliant or delicate colors.
Any old cashmere, bunting or any thin
WOODEN dress which you may have on hand
may be easily made over for summer wear
in combination with a jersey. Rip 1T to
pieces and sponge, or if very much soiled,
fearlessly turn it into the wRsh-tub. Wash
With soap bark, in milk-warm water, and dry
quickly in the shade, ironing while yet damp.
Put all the material into trimmed skirt,
made on foundation. exercising your insenu
ity to produce pretty effect. Get jersey
either to match. or, il this cannot be done, to
contrast becomirgly with the skirt t-Phiia-
delphia Press.
The choice fabrics for evening wear are exA
ceedingly delicate and beautiful, and many
of the decided novelties resemble the various
kinds of bonnet crepe In some patterns
the surface is crinkled, while in others it is
smooth, as in the plain Canton crepe Crepe
lisse and crepe du chine are represented in
the sheerer tissues, all being more or less
covered with large or small floral effects in
lovely colors, and again the goods are IN ex-
act imitation of the old style crepe shawls,
With the Same kind OF embroidered flowers
over the material as used to form the border
finish and decorate the shawl corners.
The latest novelty reported from abroad is |
the bodice of hid for ball dresses, which fits |
rather smoother than the skin and ls the |
most expensive thing out. One, in white |
kid, was worn with a full skirt, bouiilonee in |
trent and with waterfall back. The straps |
of the sleeves we're of pearl passementerie, |
and the bodice WAS edged with the same; on
one sleeve-strap was a small spray of white
lilac and leaves, eDd on one hip large spray
~ith another lower on the skirt
BY straps Of pearls. Showered all over the
bouillonees in the front Of the skirt were
sprays of white lilac, with pearl butterflies
lowering above; the long white gloves were
edged with pearls.
The veritable Richelieu shoe, extending
high on the instep and oftentimes ornament
ed with largo steel buckle, will be more
worn than ever this coming summer. The
long, pointed toes do not happily admit of so |
high heel as the Louis Quinze but the gain |
in comfort and health by the suppression of
one svil is perhaps fully counterbGlanced by
the substitution of another. To make point
ed toss possible. greater length for the shoe |
ID demanded than is strictly in accordance |
with feminine taste in general The strong |
nold over the fair sex obtained by the high |
Louis Quinze heel had been due doubtless to |
It's supposed diminution of the length of the |
foot But this effect has only been produced |
1t the expense of Chinese thickeniEg of the |
ankle.
Fichus are as much worn as ever. The
aree Marie Antoinette fichu is reSer we'd for |
indoor wear It is covered with lace ruffies, |
made over double piece of tulle or gauze, |
and cut bias and rounded. It becomes mar
row on the ends. Around the border is also
! lace ruffie These fchus white or
black. Black tulle lace has completely re
placed Spanish Isce; it is much lighter and
more easily draped Fancy and elegant
ichus for dinner and theater wear, are fiat,
forming kind of pointed COLLAR of old gui-
pure or other lace The back is pointed and
he front terminates on the waist or over the
1reast There are also many puffed plas-
rons made with lace collaret or velvet oth-
,ers' cellars. These plsstrons consist of al
md of tulIe lace or of Jet tuile gathered on
he neck and waist
Quantities of white dresses are being sold.
The fayorite style this year for girls is very
fmpIe 1t consists of round tucked skirt |
md tucked blouse with the waist put inside
he skirt and worn with o ribbon or velvet
,eIt A rosette of narrow velvet or satin rib
ION is attached to the corsage. The over
kirt is often only an apron with a wide
ucked sash, the whole, of course, trimmed
With embroidery, some of which IS very tlne
nd beautiful. pretty style for making
hese white washing dresses is with the lower
-ont in upright tueks, with vide embroidery |
etween, a round apron edged with hand-
ONE embroidery, and a sash tied over three
eep-kiIted founces at the back. In silk, |
lusliu gauze, Grape, or an unwashable mate
ial the draped apron would form a sort of
n1breauin over the hips, and a drapery, .
light, graceful and irregular, Terminating i'll
point on either side of tbs plaitings at the :
ack.