Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-12-06

and one easily followed for very little time or
ingenuity are required to follow copy and
produce coat. cap, and muff cut and arranged
from patterns. and edged with fur and vet a
warm. complete. and convenient outdoor outfit
for winter wear is the result. There is no such
thing rs Astrachan. so called. and why it should
have been found necessary to go so far for a
name when curled lambs wool is what it truly
is. and much softer. warmer and more sug-
gestve. is one of those hard things that are
never found out
Plush is still used particularly the seal brown
plush which so we'll initiates sealskin. 1t is
used for ottoman satin and brown matellasSe
clOaks, for collar broad bands. and lining.
Feather trimmings or chenille in leech or
tongue-shaped strands are preferred for velvet
coaks and nantes. plain or figured
NEW DEPARTURE AND AN ARRIVAL
Since writing my last an important arrival
promises new departure in the making of
ladies' riding habits and cloth gowns Here
after New York must be admitted to rank with
frst-c!ass cities, for Redfern. who has houses in
London and Paris-and Cowes isle OF Wight
has brought over small army of cutters and
filters and makers. and has leased buildings
running through from Fifth avenue to Broad
way at $4,000 per year. and is to open before
the first OF December with some of the designs
in costume which set the fashion in London and
Paris. Cowes is where all the royal dresses are
prepared. and it is a little odd. when one thinks
of queens and princesses as always sitting
upon thrones and wearing crowns to find them
writing on very nice but ordinary Irish linen
note paper:
DEAR Mr.. REpFERN-Plcase make me o blue serge
dress like the one you made for the empress OF Aus
tria, and Nnd two each OF the FiSh-wife" suits In
gray ana crimson flannel for the princesses
ALEXANDRIA.
At the present writing the opening, which will
| really be an event. has not taken place. but ex-
tenslve preparations are making. and among
other things ladys horse is being nlanufac-
| fr1rn TO hn
room in which riding habits are tried on, so that
every part of the costume. just as it is seen
when in the saddle. can be tested by the wearer
and placed under final inspection. One of the
features OF the house is that no two costumes
are made alike. The same cloth or trimming
may be used, but 1t is never exhibited in dupli-
cate or produced except to order, End lady can
! have special designs reserved to her own order
II she wishes. consideration which is quite
novel. and has Just been introduced in Paris is
that of an exquisite lambswool or astrachan''
trimming upon seal skin. 1t does not sound like
happy conjunction; but the effect upon a beau
! tlful Newmarket coat OF genuine seal skin is
much better than could be imagined. It looks
Russian and picturesque.
The cOlOrs in cloth are quite revelation there
are so many choice shades in coal bronze
browns and blue that it is difficult to find here
1here are also many new heather mixtures and
Scotch checks (the checks almost inyisible) in
warm. dark shades draped with peculiar grace
and used with lambswOol trimmed Jackets. The
styles are refined and exclusive the finish and
workmanship superior to anything we have had
heretofore. but whether they will find a suf-
fciently large, and appreciative public remains
to be seen.
TIE COMING CHRISTMAS.
Christmas shopping begins in earnest this
week, and the shops and shop windows are now
in their glory. Among the loveliest things are
the fans OF transparent gauZe or lace. hand
painted, or partly painted and partly embrod-
cred. There are also new designs in circular
feather fans for hanging at the side: and an in
finite variety Of pretty embroidered handker-
chiefs and dainty articles in lace for the neck
most OF them, however. showing the upright
collar and full front which have been the fea-
lures for some time past. But there is de-
mand also for real lace, and many beautiful
specimens of Duchesse and Mechlin are shown,
particularly in collars, cOllarettes, and new
square XV1Ith century design, which it is said
is the latest revival and which has been re-
celved with approval by young married leaders
OF fashion. who see in it perhaps an opportunity
TO revive some of the charming and picturesque
AFllth century modes-the period. at least dur
Ing part of it. of the most graceful dressing the
world has ever seen. Handkerchiefs are sug-
gested as most desirable and suitable Gift to
bestow upon young girls. They are so pretty
tnat they cannot have too MANY of them and
they are so costly that they are out of the reach
OF the average pocket money. But there are
also many other desirable articles-long spiral
scent bottles Of opalne and cut glass, with solid
SILVER tops; bags and purses of crocodile
ieather, and the antique pins, rings. bracelets,
and clasps OF crown Derby silver, with Assyrian
heads and ancient hierogyphic inscriptions
A novelty in Rhine stone jewery is slender
PIN OF solid silver. set with small Rhine stones
IN colors. which equal the most valuable gems
The clearness and beauty are remarkable, and
the few exhibited were sold immediately In
the antique silver ornaments the colors are re-
produced as we'll as the forms, and sometimes q
dash OF old gold is blent with the silver-the
crescent pins, for example, are often half old
gold half OXydsed silver; but the shading of both
is so managed that conspicuous contrast is
avoided. Arrow heads, old stone and bronze
implements are repeated in miniature in these
various ornaments with tiny antique heads as /
pendants. or heads enlarged and link ed together
10 form clasps, bracelet and neck bands
Apart from articles of personal adornment
there Is probably nothing SO attractive as the
wonderful display of colOred and decorated
glass In lamps. jugs vases and sets for table and
toilet use. The cost is so moderate that every
individual man or woman can have a bit of rnbv |
or amber to hold for light and sunshine. and NAV
drink from it if they choose, with a hanny
consciousness that if wealth does not come r.
the p9or, science and skill are rapidly making
money valueless by putting the beauty and re-
hnement which We're formerly it's exclusive NOS
session within the reach of all who have hands
and brains and know how to use them.
JENNY JUNE.