Barbour County index., 1884-01-25
Mooien Dresses:

Woolen dresses are the favorite choice
for street costumes this winter, and
when. made of fabrics that are not too
heavy. are also used for day dresses in
he house. Fine, soft stuffs that are Of
light weight, and fall into graceful
folds, are made up without an outside
Jacket or mantle. and are used as morn
me- dresses that the wearer can appear
n at breakfast, and afterward make
lseful for the street by adding one of
ihe long wraps that almost conceal the
figure, such as q cloth redingote, a seal
1Olman, or simple fur-lined circular
The preference in such stuffs is for solid
solors of light brown and gray. such "a
he new golden brown, ecru, CUR and
French gray. and contrasting color is
often added to these to brighten them
up. The fabrics most used for these
1resses are camel s-hair, bison cloth
and tine cashmere. either the incest
liialities made in France, or the genuine
India cashmeres with very fine twills.
)r that woven in the ii g-zag ehuddab
ines. The vest, the Understanding col
lar. small turned-over cuffs. and slight
5aylayeuse plating are the places for
Introducing contrasting color, and
the new fancy is TO have this fabric of
wool also, though velvet is sill used for
such accessories. a position basque, and
L plated skirt with draperies that are
short and full on the hips and long bo-
hind. are the directions generally gwen
Tor such dress. more novel ar
ranTement of the skirt, seen in imported
dresses Of this description, has very
short bouflaEt drapery in the back. with
the lower part turned under to fall like
u soft puff on the three wide box plaits
that finish out the skirt 10 the foot.
The front of such dress may have q
braided panel down each side breadth.
and either four or six plaits down the
front breadth: or there may he two : de
breadths wider than panels. usually
made Of figured tapestry wool, or OF
cashmere like the dress, trimmed with
drcoping loops or pointed ends OF
chenille. Long straight effects are
sought after in the drapery Of such
dresses, and in the lines of the front
and side breadths; they are also very
! Lou iant, but the tendency now is to
use pads of hair and springs across the
back of the foundation skirt for enlarg.
ing the size. instead of adding volumi.
nous breadths of cloth. There are
very simple and stylish ways of making
loose, slender and bouIiant dIapery oi
n single breadth of wide Stuiis, but this
! full width needs to be firmly fastened
| along all the edges. leaving nothing tc
hang or get out of order. TO do this.
the lower end is first sewed across to
the foundation skiit; the material is
then turned up 10 the belt, and seweC
there in two very full box pilt,. The
draping is next done by cluster oi
plaits folded closely together rather low
on each side. with their ed yes sewed
underneath quite out of sight; higher
mp in the middle of the breadth another
! full thick bunch of folds j, taken.
/ tackled permanently. and hidden in the
fullneSS of the double box plaits of the
| top. Some modiStcs add two or three
rows of plated wigging ins Dc the belt
10 serve "a "a hustle, while others prefer
the pillow-shaped pad hlled with hair.
/ he draperies aero 5 the front and hipi
of dresses with plated skirts or with
panels are necessarily very short, an6
may be made straight across in 6
wrinkled apron. or they may be panieri
that are Tapped across the front, or else
they NAV be combinations of two
single breadths used for the tack drap-
| cry, extended along below the belt.
covering the hips and meeting in front
where they are ornamcnted with
roSettes or fOt bows of velvet or satir
ribbon.
II figured tapestry is used for tn,
from; br adth or for side panels it also
forms vest. The favorite shape fol
such vests iS single piece in Bretor
fashion that laps across the lining wher
il meets in front. and is buttoned on one
side; Il row OF buttons AMI of button
holes is placed on the opposite side pre-.
ci>ely like the one that i, made use of
a standing collar of the material of the
vest is ut least IN inch and half high,
and there is rolling collar below thi:
of the material of the bas ;ue. As we
have said before. the cuiIaSS, or jersey
basque, which is straight around the
hips, has lost favor. and the position i,
used instead: this is shaped like a rid
ing-habit waist. but is ampler, with two
longer sloping Joints in front, and Is
very much broader across the PLATED
square that falls below the waist in the
back: the sides are very short. indeed
scarcely extending beyond the waist
line. When vest is not inserted Sucf
a position may lie made dressy by s
stand NO collar of velvet, and rolling
collar. also of velvet. that may bt
heightened into revrrs. Or if braid i,
employed for trimming, five or six row:
of braid are placed straight down the
front each side Of the buttons: but these
rows of braid must not extend alone
the sides of the basque, rs they are
merely meant TO suggest and outline {
vest.-HaTpcr'S Basdr.