Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-07-19
supply of both and the effect is very satisfac

supply of both and the effect is very satisfac-
tory"
MAKING GODDESS OF LIBERTY.
The chef was busy with some broken orna-
ments when the reporter entered. These he
melted and poured into plaster of paris mould.
Placing this In pan Of ice water for little
while, it was opened and an excellent goddess
OF liberty was produced, looking as well as
many of her marble sisters
You see," continued the steward, s'such
figures are made the center-pieces for dishes of
cold meats and the like, which are usually
served in sort of pyramid. One of the rules is
raised up in some way, and there are various
plans followed big base Of rice is sometimes
made to raise the birds or meats or whatever is
to be served. Sometimes they are well raised,
and then are so well concealed by tallow Orna-
ments and disguised thatit is pretty hard to tell
where to start in. I have seen some OF the
western Congressman, when such a dish is
passed, look all around it kind of uncertaiIs
where to strike, and then shake their heads and
let it pass. That Is not saying anything against
the gentlemen. I couldn't do any better if 1
hadn't seen such dishes prepared time and again,
for they are very deceptive"
How do you go to work to prepare big
dinner" asked the reporter.
"We get word that there is to be dinner for
so many persons on such an evening. know
that the dinner ia to be the best that can be pre-
pared, and go to work accordingly to procure
the best. not only that the Washington market
Affords but that can be secured in New York,
where telegraph at once for the choicest game
and other things that can be obtained. The
President gives carte blanche and never grum-
bles at expense, SO we are never hampered. The
chef always has an assistant on such occasions,
and they first go to work on the tallow Orna-
ments, and Mr.. Pfister begins on the floral orna-
ments. Great care must be taken in ornament
ing not to obstruct the view of any Of the
guests, and while floral designs are intended to
be characteristic of the OCCASION they are either
suspended so that the guest can see under them
or else raised on pillars far enough apart not to
obstruct the view. At the judicial dinner last
year the chief floral piece was temple Of JUS
tice. with the book Of laws in the interior 1t
taxes the Ingenuity OF all of us to secure a
variety. and, at the same time maintain excel
lence In all branches. The menus must be en-
tirely different. Not dish is brought on the
table that appeared at the previous dinner, SO
you see we have to keep scheming"
How many persons does it take to serve O
state dinner" asked the reporter.
If there are fifty persons at the table or q
''Why so manyi"
"Well there are five services for every
course; by that 1 mean that five dishes Of every
thing are served at once. II the course is fish
five plates OF fish are served simultaneously and
SO on through the dinner This is to prevent
wants engaged in serving the main dish Of the
course, each one helping about ten persons and
five more follow with the vegetables or the ac-
cOmpanying dish. Two more walters are kept
busy serving the wine which belongs to the
course"
THE whole dinner is prepared here in the
White House. is it not?"
"Everything but the ice cream; that we get
outside. OF course we haven't large enough
force of servants regularly in the house to serve
nd hor- 90 IL
ance. but the dinners are truly White House
dinners"
Outside the kitchen are two refrigerators big
enough for mammoth hotel but they do not
sufnce and a new one with all the modern
improvements is about to be built Mr. Williams
has comfortable office in the basement, from
which opens the Presidents wine cellar. The
stock OF wines has not been replenished since
the seasons gaietieS We're over, but the shelves
are pretty well filled yet.
LETTER FROM "UNCLE SAM"
The attention of The STAR reporter was
attracted by letter which was tackled to the
shelf containing bottles of choice Madeira.
Upon examining it he found that it was an
autograph letter from the lamented Sam Ward
to the President, giving the history Of the
neighboring Madeira, which he had sent to the
President in 1881 The letter was written in
the famous epicure's characteristic style. He
went on to say that during Sherman's march to
the sea the Charleston Jockey club buried their
old and choice Madeira wine and thus saved it.
Some six years previous to the date of the letter
the wine was eXhumed and sold to member of
the house of Barring & Co., of London and was
shipped to England. Through English ignorance
OF the proper treatment of such wines 1t never
recovered from the voyage. and its owner grew
sick OF his purchase. Learning three years later
that the whole lot was for sale Mr.. Ward and
Jim keene purchased 1t, and by proper treat
ment restored the pristine glory of the. wine
Mr.. Ward presented several demjohns Of it to
the President. Owing to the loss of the original
catalogue. the exact age of the wine could not
be ascertaned, but none of 1t was less than 40
years old, and most Of it over half a century.
Mr.. Ward gave directions how 1t should be bot
tied and stored, and subscribed himself yours,
atfectionately, Uncle Sam
THE PRESIDENTS CIGARS.
One shelf was devoted to cigars, and all the
boxes of various brands bore the customs stamp
AT the beginning Of the season enough cigars
are purchased from the New York importers to
last for good while. The President never Of
fers any but imported cigars to his guests and
is as hospitabe with them as he is with his
wines.
Everything in the culinary department is run
upon a well-arranged system, and any demands
made upon it by the President will be responded
to promptly and satisfactorily. He never knows
anything about the details, but settles the bills
without murmur. well satisfied as he cannot
help being, with the way his guests are enter
tanned.