The Portland daily press., 1884-02-07
Fashions for February.
IN. Y. Times.1

A very pretty mantle of black "moscovitev
has just been brought out in Paris. The ma
terial is rich quality of ribbed silk, which
is much in use at present. The garment is
cut up in the back. The part over the arm
that forms the sleeve is plated lengthwise,
and is in one piece with the back. The usu-
al mantle ends are in front. They are
trimmed with deep reyers of plain black vel
vet. Bordering the back and sides of the
GARMENTS black velvet ruching arranged
in large round plaits. Above this is band
of galloon or OF velvet in open work, with
beads and dropping ornaments falling over
the velvet ruching. The ends in front have
the same trimming. The design of the gak
loon consists of branches and leaves of vel
vet surrounded by jet beads with the large
dropping pear shaped ornaments which fall
below. The twisted stalks to which the
fruit and leaves are fastened form thick,
round jet cordings. The combination of
velvet, rich, glossy silk, and this trimming
makes most elegant garment. Many cloaks
are still OF fancy wooden goods. Some have
huge designs of flowers or fruit in many
colors, and others have fancy stripes. The
CONNECTIONS we allude to are all lined with
bright-colored silks; in fact, the whole style
OF the garments depends upon their Innings
They have collars and cuffs of fur or velvet.
are plainly cut and have the usual visite
sleeve, starting from the back. These gar
ments exact no trimming, and have the ad-
vantage that they can be worn nearly all the
year, for they are light and not too warm.
A becoming redingote is of fancy Scotch
plaid cloth. The ends are sewed to the
basque in full gathers. The double-breast-
ed waist has two rows of transparent horn
buttons. The lower part forms a small vest
point which falls over the skirt. The gath
cred ends open down the front. The back
is princess shape and has two full futed
plaits which reach to the lower part of the
skirt. These plaits open from the waist
down the centre to show lining of surah.
The collar is straight The long tight-fitting
sleeves are trimmed at the wrist with small
buttons to match those ON the waist. They
are taken up on the outside of the arm in
the shape of a pointed cuff.
Black toilets covered with lace hounces
are still among the most fashionable evening
dresses. They may have waists open square
or in heart shape, with the open part sur
rounded by full lace ruching. On the left
side of the ruching is bunch of flowers.
There are also black velvet dresses with long
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cred with beaded embroidery and dropping
ornaments. These have waists that are en-
broidered and trimmed around the neck with
several rows OF jet beaded cording The lace
hounces on black or dark-colered satin skirts
are often of Chantilly or of Spanish lace,
Balayeuses are still worn, but they are so
narrow that they do not show. They are
worn under short skirts only. Train skirts
have the plating generally replaced by lin
Of aofo ~ al
of heavy fabrics that are not draped require
well-made bustles. The usual cushion filled
with horse-hair is not sufficient for this pur-
pose, and must be replaced by steel tour
nure. There may be steels in the skirt prop
er, bat it is best to have them separate The
small horse-hair bustles are made for short
suits only.
A pretty and simple style of evening dress
for young lady is of cream yelling. The |
false skirt is OF silk trimmed with two deep
futed flounces, with large space between
each founce. These are bordered with a
plating of satin merveilleux, a broad piece
of ribbon is taken through the dounces I'M
der the duted folds, thus showing in the |
plain spaces between only. The tunic forms |
a small drapery gracefully plated and raised |
in front, while the back falls in a putting. |
The waist forms a small plastron in front, |
which is gathered and has no darts. The |
SIDE pieces OF Inc IronG ana back are plain, |
The back is gathered like the front. The |
neck is low to the shoulders with narrow |
ruching of satin meryeilleux gathered round |
it, The short sleeves have the same trim /
ming. On each shoulder are small ribbon |
bows. The waist fastens down the back. |
Around the waist is broad ribbon belt, |
closing in front under small bow. Whits |
silk stockings and slippers to match are
worn with this dress.
A walking suit is of green brocaded velvet |
and light cloth. The skirt is of velvet, and
the apron and draperies in the back are of
cloth. The latter consist of large plated
piece of goods which falls straight on the
right side and is drsped on the left The
waist is pointed, front and back, and the
lower part opens down the middle of the
back to leave room for the puff and form
points on either side. The plain collar 10
straight and the sleeves are long and tight
fitting. The plush cape is in imitation of
beaver, lined with colored satin and wadded.
1t forms epaulets on the shoulders. The hat
this suit is of gray felt, "bolivar"
shape, and bordered with velvet, The
clown is surrounded by broad bands of vel
vet. On the left side is fancy bird.
Chenille capotes are still much worn.
The following style will serve with almost
any costume: The crown is trimmed with
chenille, to form lattice-work,