Morning journal and courier., 1884-05-17
AROUND THE WORLD.

The TAI by MoonIIg ht--A Splendid specta
cle-Industrtoas BegEars-A WOnderfa
EehO-The Agra FOrt-IOre BeRGars-
Beautiful and Wonderful Structures
| Hot!
AGRA, India, March 81.
| To the Editor of the JOURNAL AND COURIER:
''See the Tai by moonlight" These wer'
the last words that echoed in my ears as
left Cawnpore; and indeed should have tar.
ried in that city longer had it 1T been fol
my anxiety to catch waning moon at the
proper time. As it was the moon did MOI
rise until long after midnight, SO that had
| to put myself out good deal in order to ac
| compiish my hearts desire.
According to appointment the knit mutga,
called me at half-psst three O'Clock in the
morning. Without waiting to swallow any
| chota hszree, I started on foot for the Tai 6
distance of about one mile. I knew the way,
| and I would not be bothered with either
guide or Rharry. wanted to be alone in the
stilIy night, in order that there might be
nething to hamper me when came to gush
over the Tai YOU know It fs qaite the primer
thing to gush over the Tai. Sometimes pity
the Tai when I think to what it has bsen
subjected in this line for nearly two centuries
and half. Verify it has endured much in
| the interest of sentimental humanity. But /
sailed forth, and for time all went well
Presently stumbled over a dog that was try-
ing to sleep in the middle of the road. Such
bowling as he set up makes my hair stand
on end at this moment as recall it. Imme-
diately the alarm was taken up by all the 9TH
or dogs in Agra, and the city is full of them
A mighty chorus of yelps arose extending to
the remotest limits Of the town. Then the
jaekals and hyenas, who are always prowling
around for refuse, took up the strain and
made the suburbs of the city resound with
it. Mungooses darted across my path. /
thought of lurking midnight cobras. A pro-
fuse cold sweat moistened my alabaster brow,
and trickled down my vest. I did not sweat
because of the heat. The temperature of the
morning was altogether satisfactory. This
was hardly conducive to that peaceful frame
of mind which had thought to cultivate by
this early walk, and had grave misgivings
as to whether should be able at all to ade-
quately gush over the most beautiful building 2
in the world. After a time. however, the
beasts calmed down, and so did I. It cannot
really be said that my first view of the Tai
was by moonlight, for no traveller who ar
rived in the city by train during the day can
fail to see the great building which is visible
for miles. Nevertheless, 1 had not caught
more than this distant glimpse of it by sun
light, SO that in an important sense I was to
see it first by the rays of the moon. dis
tant view of the Tai shows it to be a miracle
of grace in Its outlines. but fails to bring out
the wondrous inwrought beauties which even
the microscope but serves to emphasize.
I passed through gate leading into the
preliminary court, and then through the main
gate of the Tai Mahsl, fitting portal for the
revelation of beauty that was to follow. A
number of natives were sleeping on the paved
platform, but disregarding them, I passed
k1-4N a1~l 1r~r ~, kIaa al Al
in all seriousness would speak of the specta
ole that greeted my eyes, in connection with
which any ightness or hippancy of speech
would be painfully malapropos A long
avenue of dark Expresses opened out before
me, in the middle of which was a tank ex-
tending the entire length with continuous
fountains and marble pronenades on either
side. The vista was terminated by vision
of architectural Ioveliness SO seemingly un-
real that almost said 'sHush!'' to the birds
that were twittering IN the trees, lest even
their early matin carols should frighten it
away. 1 shall not attempt any detailed de-
scription of the TAI. 1t is too late day for
that, even had the inspired skill in rhetoric
that should fit me for the task. Some random
Impressions, submitted in all modesty must
suffice. If any reader is sufficiently interest
ed, he will have no difficulty in finding views
of the matchless building in almost any
modern volume of Indian travels. such as is
to be found in every well-equipped library.
Seating myself upon a bench beside the
fountains, in which tiny goldfish were dart
ing and splashing, 1 gazed upon the wondrous
building of which had always read and heard
SO much. I saw it exaggerated in dimensions
by the moonlight, its glorious marble walls,
pinnacles, cupolas and dome seeming to float
in the air. 1t was like dream of impossible
beauty. The man who can look upon the
Tai Aahal unthrilled is as cold as the marble
of which the latter is built. The man Who
was inspired to design that structure, and
then to call it into being, must have had a
direct revelation from heaven. And it is all
SO in keeping with the memorial nature of
the place, calm, restful to the eye, SO
quieting. Truly, heather grief has wrought
in better taste than has ever Christian civil
lization. The garden, too, is arranged to
promote the sense of serenity and repose
which animates the whole place. Delicate
perfumes bresthed upon me from lovely blos-
SONS that nestled everywhere, half hid in the
foliage
Slowly 1 approeched the beautiful vision
It seemed to swell and tower grandly as ad-
vanced, SO mysterious was the effect exer-
cised over it by the ghostiy>moonlight Nov
the four exquisi.ely graceful marbls minars
that stand at the corners of that great marble
platform glided into the picture, while the
two shapely mosques in red sandstone, oue to
the east and one to the west also came into
view.
At five O'Clock assembled one of the minars,
nearly $50 feet in height, and from there OBJ
served the sun rise to reveal the detailed
glories of the Tai 1t was pitch dark with
in, and confess felt q little squeamish as I
ascended the spiral staircase, ploughing my
way through myriads of cats that I could not
see. All this time by some strange combina-
tion OF circumstances I had escaped the
clutches of the clique of natives who consider
themselves custodisns of the great tomb, but
whose sole occupation is coaxing bucksheesh
out of visitors. Now I was discovered and
most amusing indeed we're the efforts made
to attract my attention. One and another
would walk to the foot of the minaret in a
nervous tantalized way, gaze up at me and
then retire, concluding to wait till / came
down. but each, doubtless, mentally resolv-
ing to be first on the ground when did de-
soend. I was forcibly reminded of the days
of my own youthful precocity when I used
to tie piece of meat just out of cats reach,
and then watch the emotions which she was
unable to disguise. Two three times the
salutation was waited up to me. Light all
up with blue lights, Sahib?" But was sat-
isfied with the illumination which the moon
kindly lent, and none of these appeals dis
turbed my composure. Indeed, it would
have seemed desscration to introduce any
such feature. My conscience has smitten me
once or twice since to think of how much
sleep deprived those individuals who orna-
nent the IaJ with their presence, and how
much unnecessary agitation I caused them.
The abject servility of these bucksheesh beg
gars Is, however, just the thing to tempt one
to withhold their pice. suppose the ruling
passion would be just as strong in death.
Doubtless, if one of them should be struck by
the locomotive of lightning express train,
his last remark would be an interrogatory
'Bucksheesh2" as he cast farewell fright
sned look over his shoulder.
As morning dawned I descended, ran the
gauntlet of the professional mendicants be-
low, and began to examine the superb mosaics
Of the Tai By daylight. Entering at the front |
descended passage-vay into the |
room where are the tombs of the Queen Mum |
az Mahal, whom the Tai was reared to COM |
and Shah Jehan. the king, its /
builder. The tombs are of the purest marble,
nlaid with precious stones. Around them ia |
IN octagOnsl marble screen, with a labyrinth |
II floral representations carved in its trellis
work. Despite the fact that the name of
he Meslem architect is sculptured upon
he building, there has been some
controversy over the question Of its author
hip. Some have maintained that the Tai
vas designed and executed by italian talent,
md others have even urged French author
hip. I notice that Bayard Taylor-who is a