The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-11-16
THE CANYAss-BACK DUCK.
When in Season, How to Select, and How to
Cook the King of Wild Fowl, Etc.


The Caterer.
A great many persons, at least three fourths
of those who use them, in selecting choose the
largest and heaviest they can find in a dealers
stock. They are apt, also, to fall into another
e~rror-that Of picking out the brakes. The real
epicure, of course, knows better. And the old
families, too, who have been in the habit of eat
ing them ON their native shores that border on
the waters of Chesapeake bay and its tributaries
will tell you that ii you want the canvaS-back
in perfection, where quality and not quantity is
the desideratum, you must select the young
duck, with brown, notified breast. 1t is true
that a pair of large brakes, when fat, will weigh
from six and a half to seven pounds, while the
weight OF a pair of young ones, equally fat, Will
be only from five to six; yet they will reward
you in delicacy for what they lack in weight.
Therefore, choose the latter, for there is as much
difference in flavor between the old duck and
the young ones as there is between a woodcock
and an old pheasant.
There is another point in the selection of
ducks which is well to remember After seeing
that they are young, plump and fat, see, also,
that they are sound and have been carefully
handled. There is many a pair of fine ducks ut
terly spoiled by the rough handling either of the
gunner or dealer, or both, their flesh by such
treatment becoming bruised ard soft. The
proper season for the canvas-back is from No
vember Is to January %. Between these dates
they are in their prime, and he who eats them
then should bless his opportunity.
The most celebrated places for canvas backs
of the finest quality are Havre de Grace and the
adjoining towns. The gunners from the sur
rounding country make the flats opposite Havre
de Grace their cunning ground. Here the water
is fresh and abounds with wild celery, of which
the ducks are extravagantly fond; and it is TO
this they owe their peculiar and delicious flavor.
If you care to have a feast fit to set not only
before a king but before the gods themselves,
we will, with a little recapitulation, tell
you how to go about it: Take a pair Of fine,
fat, young and sound canvas hacks-and
let them be females if possible. In
choosing them observe well their plumage. a
brownishc cast on the brehst, or where the latter
is notified with brownish feathers, indicates that
the bird is notover two years old, and that you
may safely and profitabiy invest. Have the
birds nicely picked, then draw the trail, being
careful not to cut the ~entrails, Wipe them out
with a clean, dry cloth. Use no water, for if
you are careful in drawing the trail the ducks
will need no washing, and are far better without.
Now take a stalk of celery, using the white part
only. Chop it up very fue and sprinkle it with
in the ducks. Place them in p hot oven and let
them remain for from fifteen to twenty minutes.
Then take them out, serve them up and eat.
Yet while you eat, far more prepare to crave,
And thank the gods for all the good they gave"
Some like a little currant jelly with tine can
vas back, but, for ourselves, let us have it with
none other than its own native havoring.
We have said above, place the ducks in a hot
oven" which is upon the superstition that you
are not the fortunate p~ossessor of an old-fashion
tin kitchen, with its attendant woodfre. Should
you be able to bring both to your aid in the
cooking OF the canvas back, you will know THAT
it is to have that bird in all its perfection.