The Evening critic. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1881-1885, 1884-11-18
NATTY GARB FOR MEN.
what the TaIIors Say of The Prcvait
ing styles.

ing Styles.
UYou want something about the fall etylss?"
queried leading fashionable tailor OF a
CRITIC represent itlve, who had Strolled Into
tho place wi ere, according TO the saying It
takes nine manipulators Of the goose to pro.
duce a masculine being.
''Yes," responded the latter, "something
about the recent changes"
"woll," returned tue other, "the changes
are not 20 many or 30 apparent as they might
be. Fashion, and particularly the fashion
that rules the cut OF mems clothes, IL slow aud
conservative. Sho enlarges curve hore, cuts
this corner trlle sharper, makes this little
fuller, takes In O little there. She makes few
change, but woe TO the man who pretsnds 10
pc fashions devotee who does not regard these
changes sctupulouely."
Sin lees eNubcrent English, what's new2 Or
rather what lie the correct thing In dress"
"rake tho coat, 10 begin with. There's no
truth In the statement that I've seen mado
number Of times that the old five.bution cuta-
wayis coming Into fashion again. No, that
has had Its day. The fourbutton cutaway
remains still the leading coat II IL, howovor,
opened trlfie lower. has moro liberal lapels
and collar, and is only moderately cut away.
The length IS about the Same as In tho sum.
ner. For man OF average height ISM Inches
TO the waist and 3312 to % full length. When
II is Intended to distinguish" remarked the
designer OF habiliments, "between coat for
hall or demi.dress and one for business, II Is
done by emitting to use flaps. Very fine diago-
nails are used on coat intended for DENT
dress, and no flaps are put at the waist. For
business purposes Wider diagonals arc used
ana flaps are placed on the waist seam aud
tho ticket pocket is finished with nap. Wide
ribbed diagontls are being much used for this
style OF coat: Tho edges areo course bound
with fiat Braid"
dHow about tho one.button cutawayPp
"They are becoming rather unpopular. AS
the season advances II is probable that they
Will almost entirely cease TO be made"
"rhe double breasted coate?"
"They are OF course always in style. Thoy
arc mado mostly from dark diagonal wors.
teds. In warm weather, however, q number
are made OF llghtcolored materials. rue
lapels arc gradually turning lower; gr0atsr
apace is glvon between tho two upper holo5.
The four. button coat 10 the only correct thing.
The edges are Nat braided or bound, and the
facings extend to the end OF the button holes.
Ihe straight'fron' single breasted frock is sell
'Is the eack coat still within the realms OF
Fashions sway?" inquired the newspaper
man.
The tailor smlled eighty at the attempted
''The eack is q very good, comfortable coat
for business. Fashion cannot bar 1t out.
Generally II Is made with straight front
closing with i've buttons, with rather large
lapols and collar, and turning 3ii, inches. Tho
length for O man OF feet inches Is DOL,
inches shorter proportionately for shorter
men.
''some very handsome sacks are made to
close with only three buttons. They are cut
with q full, free, graceful sweep from the
unbuttoned reaches TO the waist"
''Now, as regards overcoats, for the weather
now requires thom, and it's we'll for your read.
ers TO be posted aboutthem. The leading over
coat is the eingle-breasted, ly-front sack. II
is made Of diagonal worsted for early IN tho
season, and when 1t becomes colder OF Elyslan
or fur beaver. 1t reaches about an inch be-
low tho knee. The lapels are rather wide and
inclined to tho peaked form. The edges are
finished with velvet piping and tho seams are
Tapped and stitched one. half inch wide. There
is q pronounced disposition on the part OF
New Workers TO select heavyweight, wide
ribbed diagonals, although FUR beavers are
very popular. II Is thought that the diagonals
give sufficient warmth for our coolest weather
and look much better In milder weather. The
argument holds good for Washington,
and don't doubt that many diagonals Will be
ordered for overcoats this winter. The edges
are finished as on getaways, with fiat braid.
These overcoats are cut loose and hang free.
The fronts are faced TO the end OF the collar
and sometimes to the edge OF the button.
holes"
"now about the Newmarket or coachman's
coatP"
"That will be the dudesque thing later In
the season." he replied. SIT should reach to
midway CT the calf and cut very large, with
heavy and sharp effect, the lapols peaked
the buttons eet well back from the edges and
spaced to considerably below the sido pock-
Owill 1t no worn mrchq"
"The indications are that 1t Will become
quite popular. II denotes o return TO the
mIn was sp PDpuiar Soss
coats; how they reached almost 10 the ground
and so hid a man that short distance from him
you could hardly distinguish him from wo-
man. They grew to such enormous length
that In time they were so very extreme peo.
pie became disgusted with them. The New
market Is on the same order, but much more
slightly garment II indicates, as 1 said, a re.
turn 10 the old style.
Snow, there's trousers, for instance. They
are being made larger now than thoy were
Tbav 10 n Oh
that they wore struck by a reactionary wave,
and now the tendency is back ID the old style
OF ugly, but moro comfortable, garments, The
popular form now is the straight inside and
shapely outside seam. They are finished with
plain side seams and without spring. And,
by the way-but you are not going Pshaw,
you must? Well, drop in any time; always
glad to give you a pointer. Sure you've got
all you want? Well, ta-tal"