Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-11-22

wide TeProbation, goes on increasing like the
Nile
TIE New WOOLLEN LACE that is so much
used is called ''guipure De laine and looks ell
on ctlllren's dresses OF on tea gowns.
VERY BROAD GALLONS for trimming cloth
dresses are shown Ia mohair and in tinsel and
mohaiF woven closely in basket designs
PoiNT EsPAGNOI., the new Spanish lace. Is
made Of white silk blonde. the scalIoped edge:
Closely resembling the raised Escurial patterns
THE BLENDING of pia.ded wOolens witt
plain fabrics is AGAIN in favor but the combina-
ton OF plaided materials with the best brands o.
NtiVeteen Is tar more fashionable.
HOODS TO the backs of mantels are being wOrr
again. and though some of these are merely or
namental. the majority are intended to be use
fui Is We'll. Women with round shoulders dc
well to avoid these fashionable additions as do
also women who are very stout.
FICHU INTENDED to be worn with the open
Znuaye bOdices has collar of white ribbon
over which lace is turned up. The front is long
and graduated towards the waist the lace being
turned back upon it from either side in plats
over ribbon, which can be colored instead OF
white.
THREE NEW varieties of roses will be In de-
mand this season. They are known as the SUM-
set. Southern Belle and Countess Pembroke.
The first named is a large and fine tea rose the
second delicate light pink tea rose; and the
third assemblies the La France rose save that
It's petals are pink on their inner and outer
sides
RICH EABRoIDERIES in shaded cOlOrings and
artistic hand-palntings on SATIN silk, cashmere,
and velvet also, are used for very elegant din
ner and reception costumes. Many of the very
beautiful tabliers and panels have in these DAYS
the additional value Of being the handiwork of
the WcareTS
Many FASHIONABLE LADIES are wearing
wide upright collars and deep, gauatleted cuffs
ofyelyet, both black and eolored. Some are
simply edged with fine cord of gold or silver.
Others have an embroidery worked at the cor
ners of the cOllarband. as well as on the cuffs.
Lace may be worn to relieve the severe line of
the velvet but fashion does not dictate the adj
ditiOn.
The NEW PAsSEMENTERIES are really mag
nfcent. Among the most attractive novelties
in this line, are sets which include tablier, panel
decorations, vest. aud wide collar and cuffs in
jet clair de lune, ruby. or iridescent Standings
One rare set. in shaded bronze and amber. pro-
duced superb effect upon reception costume
OF golden brown velvet, combined with Lyons
satin OF deeper shade.
Some OF TIE WINTER BOSNETS are trimmed
with ribbons of Ottoman and plush brocade or
uncut velvet with grounds of the most exquisite
c'tGEgeGd effect. The cOlors are of the Oriental
ttPt ITCHY DieGutu, ailu many riDDOnS snow a
Dflght contrasting color on the reverse side. Be-
sides their use for strings they are employed in
making rose tuffets and rOsettes. often forming
the only garniture upon the bonnet.
AMONG TIE STILL very popular jersey bod
ices are some newly-arrived models designed
exclusively for evening wear One elegant
bodice is made of pure white silk Jersey web
oing, rich and lustrous in quality. This is ex-
quisIteiy embroidered in white silk floss and
EiIk-White and crystal beads in designs OF roses
and buds Another is made of pearl beads and
white chenille, Melted in diamond natterns. This
jersey has no foundation and is to be worn over
a jersey slip OF white surah cut with half-loW
neck and short sleeves, the edges richly finished
with lace.
II HOSIERY are shown as best choice plain
solid colors. and these invariably dark Stripes.
piaida, and all fancy stockings are considered
decidedly passes and ineiegant The most popu-
ier eyes are those in NeapOlitan cardnal-a
very deep shade OF that eolOr-Spanish brown.
GeFp ruby. marine blue. and olive. Black silk
STOCKINGS are chosen for all occasions by a large
class OF wealthy purchasers. and for dressy use
young ladies wear SiIk hose of dove gray beige
or pearl color under Terry sandals of Egyptian
Ted kid.
TIE LONG cloak. like the fur-lined circular
holds place in fashion which no other manteI
can ever quite successfully occupy. The lengthy
and luxurious wraps are in high yocIic both
here and abroad, lady attired iE one of these
elegant garments in fur. silk. CLOTH or brOcaded
velvet CT satin being considered as dressed in
TIE best of style There is however choice
this season. wider more diversified and more
suited to varying tastes than has ever before
prevailed There are wraps and wraps. and
among the treasures of the importers stock are
any number of novel and '.Frenchy' models
which are sent over for the especial benefit of
those who seek novelty. and who admire meth
IN" long which Is not uncommon and striking
PAEls sends over a novelty in the way of
glove which is fastened all the length of the arm
By means Of tiny kid straps ard buckles This
iswithOut donbt glove that will prove boon
10 ladies' who, being the possessOrs of shapely
plump arms. hsve long been veXed with the
straight UuttOned gloves. but little wider at the
top than at the wrist, causin" the rounding
PORTION OF the arm To be pinciied and squeezed
Into space some inches too narrow for it, and
giving tfle weareT'S arm confined and uncOIn-
Portable appearance. with little feversh-lookinr
hiiocaS OF flesh. pT0truding between each but
ION az the gloves entire length. Tie StraD
glove can be made to fit snu~ly and triVnIy
While at the same time preserving the graceful
symmetry OF the arm.
RICH OUTDOOR TOILET is composed of gre
nat tinted wooden fabric. serge. fine.cloth cash
Eiere. or corded SILK and velvet OF a deeper hue
for the trimming In dcad-leaf green. with
yeiyet 70 match. tie same dress would look
equally well. The skirt formed with narrow
in-e on q peiisse of the dress fabric the bodice
gaugei al tue waist and in folds at the neck so
forming full front; an end OF ribbon velvet is
liked ar each side and then tied in loose knot
with long loop. and ends in front. The front of
the skirt lOoped up in folds at the side and at
the back graceful drapery. The neck finished
with band or collar of velvet Ornamented in
front with two loops and ends. Sleeves Dor
dered with a band OF velvet. Bonnet OF grenat
velvet, bordered with two qu:lIings of lace to
match in hue and trimmed with light rrenat
feather fastened at the side under a cluster of
nectarines.
Bison CLOTH RIBBED. TO represent plush. in
very narrow stripes, is used for understands
The effect at distan ce resembles tueking. ard
when made up with the plain or figured bison
Of the same shade the costume has q simple but
elegant appearance. The braided bisons are
also popular, although they are too expensive
10 become common. They come in pattern
dresses. the braidng being in aTabesque designs
and yery deep on the underskirt, while on the
oYertlress and basque it is in narrow bal.ds
Sometimes broad band of astrakhan is placed
between the braiding on the skirt. In figured
bison cloth the designs are very rich but quiet
IN cOiorlng. most of them being in Persian
effects One design has a dark blue ground
WITH tiny crimson and yellow tulips crossed and
scattered over II; another is of olive green with
biuebells and cr0cuses. Set designs in squares
tr'an2ies, and hoops are also seen in mingled
eolors OF red, blue. purple aud white.
COSTUMES for this season are made of two
very lffarpFf Sty faa {oiIo, s.,ra