Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-03-01

III treatinS PONCE and light solid fabrics, the
lower part of the front striped with embroidery
alternating with upright folds. and the bodice
having skirt front also outlined with en-
brodery.
WHITE AND BLACK PONGEES
Quite new departure has been made in pom
gees by the introduction of white and black IN
addition to the dull buff and ecru shades to which
We are accustomed, and which are not becoming
to all complexions-specIally unbecosling, in
deed, to those who are fair, with a touch of SAL
loWness. The white pongees are soft. delicate.
very cool and lovely for young Urls and Young
uliAiIeu women They are daintiest embrod-
ereo with white SILK, SO as to De all white, but
they are very pretty also embroidered in colors
on rather prim conventional borders and pat
terms. The black pOngees are cool, and take the
pace OF canton crepe, or crepe-de-chine may be
employed either for complete dress or as gath
ered oFerdresSeS for satin skirts the belt being
made OF the satin and the folds down the side
OF TIE nleated skirt front of the satin also. uu-
less the pongee Is trimmed with embroidery
upon itself.
GRAY LENTEN DRESSES.
Inc costumes which have been prepared with
special reference to sthe lenten season are gray
more than black. Some arc gray trimmed with
oiack velvet. but the "high' ritlalistic costumes
are straight dresses of gray wool. the front of
the shirt laid in upright folds, the back box
rleatcd. The high. close bodice cut ont in a
narrow square, and filled in with folds and
oand OF black velvet. with upright, crumpled or
fns reated ruffle and square able ends Of mus
I'M surrounding the throat. Tie see,a IS are
close. with small puffs over the elbow The
mantle is OF gray wool, plain or checked has
loose sleeves liaed with satin. and ia fa tened at
the throat with a Clasp of carved wood The
bonnet is of gathered nuns yelling, lined with
satin and trimmed with satin and pOmpons.
Inc spring hats that have made their appear
ahce are straws, the braids for which We're inn
ported the previous season and made up in this
country 1he crowns are generally very high,
the brlms very narrow, and the shapes so
striking as to be obtrusiye, and to many unde-
siTaoie Naturally women will fall back upon
nohhets, which have been small of late. but suf-
hc'ently varied to suit quiet tastes. and also
tflose OF more dressy tendencies the materials
having contained clements particularly rich aud
attractive.
DEPTH IN MOURNING
There Is movement in the wearing and
making of mourning for near and dear friends
which needs TO be chroEcled. It may be be-
cause SO many have discontinued the wearing
OF mourning altogether that those who still
continue the custom consider it necessary to
emphasize 1t as mucha possible. mourning
outfit recently made exhibited scarcely any
thing upon the first dresses. but the heavy folds
OF double English crepe, the depth of which
",
lower reaching above the knee The bonnet
was entirely Of crepe and its trimming was
veil fastened so to fall at the back to the top
OF broad band OF crepe that bordered the
coat. The material was fine, double. jet black,
henrietta cloth. and the lining of the coat was
heavy dull armure silk. For morning wear
at home was . long black cashmere. princesse
cut, with small, dull, "black currant' buttons
and black pleated crepe lisse at the neck and
wrists. The battlemented band ut the throat
disclosed the crepe lisse between the squares.
The home dinner dress was of rich but
dull armure silk with demi-train bordered deeply
with solid crepe, small de Medici collar OF crepe
with inside peatng of crepe isse (biack), and
de Medic cuffs OF crepe turned upon the arm
What is called a plastrOn. formed of folds of
crepe. constituted the front of the bodice
Heavy folds of crepe arranged az diagonal
apron tTaverscd the upper front of the skirt and
assisted t. tor:I the drapvry, which was massed
on the point of the bodice. Lace Of any kind.
black or white. ia not permitted SO long as
crepe is worn: Lat when that is removed black
lace and beaded worlc may be used for orna-
mentat;on ard finish of the dull and lusteress
kinG5. JENNY ,JVNE