Morning journal and courier., 1884-09-22
The Fall Fashions.


 From the New York Times.
 Suits are to be made this fall of striped goods, with the stripes running crosswise. During the summer months the fashion of crosswise trimmings has been rapidly gain ing ground. First galloons were employed, with three to seven rows on the skirts, and later the skirts were covered with this trim ming Then skirting was employed and the goods so arranged that the stripes formed curves. At present ribbon velvet is the rage in Paris It is used in all widths from the narrowest to goods two inches wide. A dress arranged in this manner has a round skirt trimmed with three rows of ribbon vel vet and slightly draped on the left side The tunique is plaited over the left hip and the lower part is bias. It is draped on the left side like the skirt. In the back is plaited breadth of goods with the plaits taken in bias from the left to the right side. Three rows of velvet are on the lower part of the goods. They are placed bias like the plaits. Three rows of velvet are also around the apron The waist is very odd, being trimmed on one side only. It closes straight down the front and has drapery which is shirred at the neck and on the waist. The drapery has three rows of velvet on the right side. The large turned-down collar has three rows of velvet on the left side only. The basque is cut up over the hips and terminates in a kind of rectangular pocket, which has three rows of ribbon velvet placed on vertically. Another model in very different style, but is also trimmed with velvet, is of putty-col- ored India cachemire and striped velvet, with putty ground and garnet stripes, having many colored fine threads on either side. The velvet skirt is perfectly plain. The tu- nidue consists of cuirass in "Agnes Sorei' style and rounded on the basque. The front opens to below the breast, and then again near the left hip and is trimmed with piece of velvet coming from underneath. This last is at least two inches deep. The apron of the tunique is plaited and fastened to the lower part of the waist, with the point in- clining toward the left side. The back of the unique is plaited double and bias. It is very short on the right side, and on the left side it forms a long, shell-shaped end.
 A handsome walking and visiting dress is of black feille and lace. On the lower part of the round skirt is narrow faille huting. Above this is lace founce. Down the front is 0 breadth of lace which forms two full puffings Narrow hounces taken up the back to the middle of the skirt. On the lower part of the right side of the skirt is large striped velvet and satin bow. On the left side is a breadth of this same velvet and satin goods, which forms kind of qu1lle trimming, consisting of double round plaits reaching from the hip to the lower part of the skirt. The lace unique is mounted full around the waist and falls in long pointed apron It is surrounded by lace ruf1e. The lace waist is lined with faille. It is pointed back and front and has lace ja- bot. The lengthwise plaited sleeve is all of lace and has no lining A small lace cape is thrown over the shoulders. It is taken tightly over the waist and has double row of she'll shaped lace on the lower bor- der. The black straw hat matching this suit has a high crown and a brim turning up on the left side In front of the crown is very large cockade of black epingle ribbon and ribbon velvet, either white or straw color. Around the crown of the hat are two bands of the same ribbon. The brim is lined with black velvet.
 Another lace toilet is combined with car dinal ottoman. The false skirt is of cardi- nal satin covered with deep lace plaited founces. In the back three of these hounces, and only one is taken around the skirt. In front is a large drapery of otto- man fastened down on either side under 0 large plait which reaches to the lower part of the dress. The ottoman waist opens over a tight-ftting vest covered by lace drapery. This drapery is taken down to form small panier on the left side. The waist is cut out over the shoulders and filled in with handsome lace insertion so as to form bretelles. The back forms small position with rounded plaits. The straight collar is of ottoman, with a piece of mar TOW black lace around the neck. The sleeves terminate at the elbow. The inside is of ot- toman and the outside of insertion. They are trimmed with deep lace ruf1es.
 Black and white checked suits are still the style. Many of these are of taffetas and s1- M rah They have round skirts trimmed with three or five founces. These founces are either plaited or gathered and are always cut straight The upper part of the skirt has small scarfs in apron shape and short ends in the back arranged like a hare's ears Jack cts of black navy blue or gray cloth may be worn with these suits. Jerseys also serve for this purpose. They are in the same shades as the cloth jackets. These dresses are suit able for walking or visiting purposes.
 rich bridal dress is of white satin and very fine lace Against the false skirt is diagonal apron formed of lace founces against satin plaitings. This apron is taken to the train on the left side. Above is a satin puff fng, which is mounted in large plaits and taken from the right hip to the lower part of the skirt on the left side. This pufing is of double satin On the right side is waved panel trimming. On the lower border of the skirt is narrow ruched founce. The waist opens over a vest of plaited crepe lisse, with a narrow lace trimming on either side. The very short basque is cut up on the hips and has narrow pufing falling from underneath. The tailleur back forms a small point and the long satin train falls from under it. The lower part of the train is rounded. Around the neck is 8 lace ruching. On the right side of the waist is bunch of flowers. The half long sleeves are trimmed with narrow lace rufie, surmounted by cording of orange blossoms bunch of orange blossoms IS against the starting point of the apron The t4Ile veil covers the whole dress A bunch of orange blossoms fastens it down to the middle of the head in front
 The tsDauphin" collar has been much worn in France this summer. It is four inches deep and opens in front, leaving space for a gathered drapery, which is fastened down on either side in shawl shape and taken to the lower part of the waist, where it is slightly crossed. This collar makes very pretty waist trimming, particularly for young ladies. It is made of the materials used for neck trimmings, such as blue batiste dotted with red or white embroidered lawn with white dots, or crepe lisse with silk embroi- dered designs. Sursh is not suitable for this purpose, as it has been so much used of late for neckties and collars as to become quite common The "Dauphin" collar may be of navy blue stamped foulard, which washes like a handkerchief. For middle-aged ladies who do not favor these light trimmings the collars are of black lace. They are lined with black silk and covered with lace, or else the lace forms plaited rufie. This fashion