Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-11-01
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
Toilets Worn by Ladies' fsefuraiI,g from
Administration SOEras-A Flower
Drcss-t;arnefs ami Other Jey.eIrY
That VIII De Worn


New YORK, October 81.
II is noticed that the women Of wealth and
position who have arrived from abroad wear ali
black toilets, largely composed of lace and vel
vet. At home their dresses are masses OF black
chantilly lace over silk and satin. Fer the street
long eloaks of brocaded velvet also richly
trimmed with wide lace. These ell black toilets
are completed by charming bOnnets of plush or
velYtt with high pointed brim, small square
crown. and curled plumes or aigrettes massed
upon the front and mounted so as to increase as
much as possible the apparent height golden
dagger pierc"s tTansyeTsely the fullness of the
crown and that is all the relief to the rich depth
of the black except the gloves, which are Usu-
ally light tan color, aui very long and soft, in
the Bernhard style, which has superseded ali
Others.
The most distinguished toilets of all kinds are in
black white. and smoke shades-the latter in two
tones. The pink and blues have all disappeared
even from the range OF evening dress. and the
stone and ecTu shades have taken the place OF
grey. The wine COiors and Lombard browns.
the dark green and bronze shades hold their
own for day wear but there is constant ten
Gency to unity and Garten the costume for
street wear. and render the contrast with the
deliCacy and daintHeSS of evening attire as
striking Is possible The shOwiIy dressed NO.
man. whether her garments are cheap or costly
has become an object OF suspicion. she is so apt
to be sham. There are women who on occa-
siOns viii be magnificent in Jewels and fine raj
ment; but this is exceptional. and the effects
this produce are due TO the possession of family
treasures in diamonds and lacCs. There are
other women considered ''very Gressy. PERHAPS
extTayagant. who are really great economists
They understand the whole art of making over
and putting the best side outside" They
mount trimming satin az 80 Or 50 cents per yard
on cotton lining; their velvet has q linen
back; they know the value of their silks for
rUfting, AMI Pat every inch of lace or eubro:d-
cry v here il viii do the most good. Their get
up is always elaborate. The difficulty is they
look too Much drtSsed-oyer-dreSse because
there is SO mach tO cover up. On the other
hand, The pa!nest dressing in appearance usually
costs the EOst. TO into any store. and the
common garments viii show an excess of cheap
trimming or the strongest contrasts in color
While tnr most expensive viii be quiet uniform
IN tone. Aut soft AID fine in texture and quality
end exquisite in workmanship.
LApYs OUTFIT.
1t is rather remarkable that the finest most
expensive outfit perhaps ever received by the
famous order department of Lord Il Taylor,
should have come from a lady no longer young
who is not Il bride or going to be, but who is
extremely wealthy and fashionable and spends
at least half ner time abroad. Whatever may
be said in regard to dresses and particularly
wraps-aBd IL this latter respect we are rapidly
European houses. both IN style and price-it is
conceded that IN the making Of fine underwear
we can distance all competition. In the outfit al
luded TO. are two dozen Of the finest night
dresses. two dozen pairs of drawers and two
dozen peculiar waists or corset covers from
which both drawers and short skirt are suS-
pended, The gowns are made of the finest
grade of linen. with soft finish and are trimmed
exclusively with fat needle work and minute
tueking. No lace is used and there are only these
resources to draw from, yet the design
OF each one is totally diffe ent from the other
and the effect of the whole extraordinarily
beautiful from the masses of fine tucking the
charm and diversity of the newest patterns i'm
exquisite needIewOrk. and the skill with which
they are arranged. The design of one formed
square in the center, and half handkerchief to
the foot of the robe. but for my part must con-
Tess to a preference for the simpler patterns
the straight and rectangular with their long
lines and Characteristic effects. Another feature
worth noting in these gowns is quite novel. 1t
consists OF buttGnhOles made SO that ribbon No.
5 or No. can be run through them draw the
gown into folds, and shape it to the body
These buttonholes are repeated on the sleeves
extending up two-thirds of the distance
both upon the back and the front, and
Craving them in lengthwse upon the lower
arm of course they are quite loose and gath
cred In at the top The corset cover is per-
fectly original garment. 1t is fitted waist cut
square OF round, and with very deep SPRING
or skirt, which covers the hips and descends a
little below them. Attached to this lust below
the waist line. is a second spring or skirt upop
the hem OF which buttons are Sown at regular
intervals, from which the drawers and short
uaderskirt are suspended. The depth Of this
attachment relieves the hips and waist entirely
and greatly diminishes the length OF drawers
and underskirt- The length of these is not
more than that for small child, and the width
seems quite out of proportion.
bridal dress nearing completion deserves
mention The train was OF thick SATIN plated.
but otherwise quite plain only faced interiorly
with shells of satin and plaitings OF lace But
the front was covered with masses of fine
tuchesse lace and exquisite pearl embroidery
and the pointed bodice was draped down to
points front and back with lace flouncing of the
same marvellous fineness, the falls from the
shoulders forming the sleeves. An imported
dress just received for wear at wedding re-
ception is fivOry velvet, draped up on one side
over petticoat of satin embroidered with sill
yer and garnitured with plumes and water-lillies
In satin, with hearts of powdered gold The
silver embroidery is executed in water-lily pat
tern with centers of minute gold beads The
train and back of the low bodice are of velvet.
the front is of embroidered satin and decora-
ton arranged as an order crosses the bodice
and is fastened upon the left shoulder
with an ornamental group Of feathers and water
lilies similar to that upon the skirt. The inte-
rior facings and knife pleatings OF the train are
satin, separated by thick cord from the velvet
edge A walking or carriage dress sent over at
the same time is Of golden brown plush lined
with satin. the bonnet to match trimmed upon
the front with five brown birds with breasts
shaded from gold to brown. The plush skirt
opens over a front of killed satin In two parts.
and has a Dleated satin vest fastened with small
round bronzed buttons, and Jacket BASQUE
Ii Is accompanied by long coat lined with
satin.
FLOWER DRESS
One OF the most poetic and charming toilets
ever imported is . Worth evening dress brought
from Paris by Miss McNay of McNay & Nichols,
the youngest and most enterprising of our im-
porting mOdistes. II is made of moonlight
tulle, studded all over with tiny silver loops
woven into the tissue and through each of
which Is passed the stem of wood violet In
velvet Tie YlOlets also form fringe across the
front, which ascends on one side Tor short dis
tance. descending again and ending with the be-
ginning Ofthe small train which is very full and
not boFdcTesl. and lifted in bouffant STYLE upon
the point % the low bodice. Crossing this aud
lightly touching the shoulder is q delicate gar
land Of flowers. which torn the only Ornamental
ton The transparent underskirt is bOrdered
with plating dyed with purpievelvet, and this
by narrow pc.isSe OF satin matching the tule.
white tulse. made over white satin, had
train dotted with silver and front composed of
peated tul!e striped with satin ribbon; the panels
Iengthwise; the full front horizontally. The
cOdice Is very low, pointed at the back, and
forming q full bust in front surmountcd with
shells OF MechEn lace.s There is q very novel
aud becoming arrangement of folds. which pass
under the arms. filing the hollow and support
Ing the bust. There is distinct return to the
low pointed bodice falling of from the should
srs and To the short sleeves Of fifty years .ro