St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-11-15
A PHILOSOPHERS on DRESS.


Hosc cfer0yneH, Doctors, Lascvers, Sports,
Actors, and Politicians Array Them.
seIres.
There are always certain classes Of men
VINO have styles Of their own. They pay lit
tie attention 10 the latest fashions except TO
modify them into the direction Of their own
ideas. This habit, sir, - said the tailor, with
dignity, 81 regard as the consummate flower
of high civilization 1t gives the individual
a marked character. 1t distinguishes him
from the herd. To the civilian bis garments
are as much an evidence Of the calling-to
one who can read the signs-as his uniform
TO soldier or his livery TO footman. There
are clergymen, for instance. Who can mis-
take one, even though be doesn't affect the
clerical cut, which he ought to, by the byel
/ cut for a mum Der OF prelates, and tell you,
sir. they have got 70 wear q coat with a straight
collar and vest that buttons around the
neck-Church OF England costume, sir, or
none at all from nv establishment"
But how" inquired the reporter, "are.
you TO distinguish the doctor and the law
yeri''
''Only q novice would ask that question
Physicians in good practice-and, of course,
have none other among my customers
are the most particular Of men. Take
Madison avenue practitioner as an example,
and he's the ideal doctor for you'll Large,
stout, not 10 say trifie dabby, and wearing
belt, carries himself well, great dignity, i'm
mense pomp. He dresses always in fine
black diagoDals, with rich, black kersey top
coat, and alt must fit him without a wrinkle
Sometimes he INDUCES in a fancy cashmere
n ND he. ,fa ha
at his fob sets nj the neatest stomach TO ft iu
the world. In hat, gloves, aud boots be Is
unexceptional and extravagant. His scarfs
are the richest, his linen and cambria the
finest. He wears three diamond studs, no
other iewelry but the seals. Well, sir, he's
an impressive spectacle, rich, neat, elegant,
finished, and more pleasing 10 the eyes OF
rich woman than dollhouse flowers
but lawyers, pshawl They're the worst
dressers in rhe world, IL they amount to any-
thing. Want something black, and take the
first goods that come to hand. Never want
new suit till their old ones gets disgraeefully
shabby or falls TO pieces entirely. Boots gen
orally look well, for they like warm feet and
pay pig prices. But hats l-shockingl The
worst tiles in this town are partly distributed
on the heads OF our most eminent lawyers
You can hardly get them to come here aud
OF fitting. They'll always take it, don't care
how it looks, If it goes on easily But, bless
you, that isn't what a true artist wants Big
lawyers have paid me high prices for suits
that when / saw on them sent shiver
through me. Such garments would give any
establishment but mine q bad name
Another class who dress characterlsiical-
ly," continued the tailor garrulonsly, ''are
men OF business. They want q dozen
coats and and as many trousers and waist
coats and the like, in multitudes, after the
latest fashion. Yet your true man Of fash
ion is no dude. He is never pronounced,
aud naver has on shining new clothes. It's
the general effect-the elegance that comes
only with long experience or careful valet
that shows, and 1t is whnt the mere dude
can never catch on TO- The dudes and ali
the noodles who merely copy the most ex-
travagantfa fashions, while they are our best
paying-cu stomers, don't compel our admira-
ton. It's the man who knows his style and
dresses up to it who is the true dresser.
''Of course, even you can always recog-
nize the sporting man. He is species with
divers classes. The racing man dresses diff
erently from the yachting man. The dog
fancier has salient peculiarities unlike those
OF the horse fancier, and the mere gambler,
who looks upon sports OF all sorts as simply
opportunities for book ma king, has a style
all his own. But they differe initiate in some
things-lrinkets, linen, and the like. They
are all fond of high colors and unique pat
terms. Their abundant jewelry is apt TO be
In the form Of pugs' heads or racing insig-
mia. Most have a weakness for bell crowned
hats, yellow stitched gloves, and pointed
shoes. Their canes remind you of the neck
and head of stork, with the long bill on
the top. They are a knowing crowd mostly,
but about dress they are as innocent as ba-
bies.
"Closely allied to sporting men are actors
from a tailor's point of view. But there's
wide difference essentially. The sporting
man wants TO dazzle you; the actor TO I'm
press and overcome you. The sporting man
will distribute mis- msgnifcence all over him:
the actor relies on some such concentrated
effect as a sealskin coat or a low-cut shirt
collar and wide brimmed hat. He wants his
clothes cut, not TO fit him, but 10 drape him,
and he arranges himself in attitudes favor
rble 10 classic folds. Actors are liberal Gus
toners when they have money. But poll
ticians stand high with us. They are the fell
lows for new clothes They want everything
sleek and shiny, spick and span, and brand
new. They are the best tailors. blocks, too,
and afford more pleasure to a true artists
eye than the merely elegant fellow who dis
tracts attention from his clothes to himself -
New York Star