The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1884-09-11

MORENCI. CONVERTS AND CATHEDRALS.
HOME AGAIN.
Correspondence of the journal
Probably no city on the continent has more
distinctivey foreign air than Quebec. Its sit
uation alone is unique. Perched on high hill,
and crowned with citadel which frowns like
a second Gibraltar upon the ships gliding up
and down the broad st. Lawrence at its feet,
the approach by boat from Montreal is very
beautiful. Tin roofs sparkle in the sunlight,
from the lofty citadel floats the British flag,
and clearly defined wall and ramparts separ-
ates the more aristocratic upper town from the
miserable group of buildings huddled close to
the waters edge, which is called lower town.
Communication between the two is by flights
of wooden stairs, one set appropriately called
Breakneck, and by an elevated railway OPP
posite is Point Levi, the center of a lively
lumber trade while between the two banks
ply all sorts of sailing crafts. from the ponder
Gus ocean steamers OF the Allan line to CAV
little pleasure boats.
The Raymond eNcursionists returning 10
Quebec from their Saguenay trip. landed i'll the
morning when the scene along the quays is full
of hustle and oddity. One Of the first things 70
attract attention is the motley collection Of
vehicles. The drays look like ladder halanc-
ed pair of wheels, and the Shafts on all
the carriages are clumsy beyond description
But it is needful to use strong material, for
Canadian drivers race up and down the steep
hills, cut around short corners and rattle over
the loose paving stones in the most reckless
fashion. The style of vehicle known as the
coiecLf is something entirely novel and unlike
anything ever seen in the States. II looks Ike
an old fashioned two-whccled chaise only the
top is more open and the seats are much high
er, while q narrow front seat for the driver il
in unpleasant proximity to the horse, tail ON
one OF these airy perchcs an individual bears
ridiculous resemblance to a hen 1T roo>t. The
drive to the hotel led through streets 80 narrow
that out-hangng signs nearly proruded into
opposite windows; also past the market. Most
of the produce is brought in BY women, brown,
muscular and horny-handed, who wear flap
ping straw hats and dump the contents Of their
clumsy carts into the various Stalls with no
/ seeming regard for order. Fruits, Stocking
yarn, vegetables, fish nets, poultry. spades and
tin>el Iewelry may be found in the stalls or in
/ the open square where the carts stand till
nearly noon.
The St. Louis hotel i. The finest in the city.
and the table j, really excellent But The rooms
are >oyeuly beyond endurance for Il stay of any
length, and Il general air of untidne>> pervaAcs
the establishment. Lounging about the Steps is
set of unprnciped drivers called '.cartcr,''
They pirate unwary Travellers charge eXholbi-
good fortune of mother and myself to be vic
tmled by one of This class A grnlemany
looking fellow announced our carriage H. ready
and we Were Wlnrcd off in tricc 70 the Plains
Of Abraham and thence to the Falls Of Mont
morenci. The demand of two tolls (Which our
ticket. covered of tWenty-thret cents each
awakened suspicion, and ended, after our visit to
the Fails, in an order to return to the hotel.
where the efficient conductor Of the excursion
settled matters after Yankee ideas of Justice.
That ride reckoned for naught, and 1T four
O'Clock we We're taken by the man Who LET'S
teams to the Raymond parties, i'll an elegant ba-
rouchc with tine pair OF horses, to visit other
points Of interest. The incident brought out
such extreme courtesy from Mr.. IIough, the
owner Of The carriages, and Illustrated 50 wen
the advantages of this mode Of travel, that we
were rather glad it happened.
The nine miles drive to Montmorcni is
through the Struggling, picturesque village Of
BEAUFORT, where Father Chiniquy ahorcd be-
fore he went over TO Professionalism. The whole
scene is like biz of Normandy trans planted to
Canadian soil. Odd little houses made of stone
and beautifully clean are set by the roadside at
every conceivable angle. Biz chimneyS. dormer
windows, out-of-door ovens, patches of bright
flower. everywhere. women and girl, working,
with hoe Or spade. glimpse Of the spinner ill.,
doors wearing the white Normandy cap, are 4
few of the things which catch the eve as one
bowls over the smooth road. \ halt was made
Al fine insane asylum en- the WHY. one attruc-
ton of which was ii peculiar parsonage Who
stands at the entrance. She Wore high Gilt
crown dotted with bright stones and was trick
ed out with 10 end OF tinsel ana tinery. rings.
bows and ribbons. She received Us With the air
Of 4"crn, calmly announcing That tic wis
Victoria and that it gave her pleasure 10 vel
come Us to Ninslor Castle. Poor sout Would
that no worse deluson ever possessed the hui
man mind. If one expects to see Niagara At
Montmorenci he will be disappointed. But if
he wishes to see water falling from n greater
height in one long, white sweep Of beautiful
foam, ncccy Us Il bridal veil, he Will have his
sense Of beauty gratiticd. On either side are
the piers Of bridge which gave way, some
years since, precilitaing farmer within wife
and child, together with horse ana wagon into
the scehing waters beneath
one never tires OF watching the endless va
riety of street life in this quaint fascinating Old
city Priests and nuns glide quietly about, the
shops are full of tobogean>. snow shoes ana
other signs of winter sports. French clerks
preside over counters Of English goods and
over all broods dreamy, le>urcy air, the very
opposite of American noise and haste. in
evening on Dutirrin Terrace presents beauti-
full spectacle. The terrace Is broad platform,
extending from the citadel 400 feet along the
rivers edge and protected by an iron railing.
Small kio>k> are placed at intervals, ,ettct> are
scattered along. and there i, Il stand for the
military band. Leaning over the parapet one
looks directly down a steep bank upon the mar
row streets and tin-rUofcd houses Of Lower
Town, and upon tie many lights Of ferry boats,
steamers and bargos in the river beyond. one
OF the principal amusement, Of the visitor Is to
HE from cathedral to cathedral ana from con
vent TO convent. Why this is 50 | cannot ina
CINE, unless because tourists DO the same thing
i'll Europe, thus establishing the custom. As a
rule The pictures are poor in the cathedraS and
there are the same taWdry geWgaws in the
chancel. Dcyotees knce before the various al
tars counting their beads and mumbling their
prayers, while the eyes Of some curiolsly watch
the visitors. Bones of the saints are pou>lv
preserved in glass cases, and everybody i eN-
pected to believe that this is a vcritable part of
Peters great toe and that Il section of ST..
Annes fifth rib. Priestly vesments. too, are
shown, Of rich Lyons velvet, stiff with en-
broidery in gold and silver thread. These are
kept securely locked and exhibited rs Il special
favor
Reluctantly the party turned their faces
homcWard. stopping for IN excellent dinner 1T
Newport at the Memphremagog House on The
lake of the same name. and reaching Plymouth
n ii. for the sabbath. Here was found an
ideal summer hotel. For roomneSs and clean
illness, for the best of bath and bed rooms, for
perfection of food and service in the dining