Delaware gazette and state journal., 1884-02-28
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS
LETTER TO THE LADIES ON
SPRING STYLES.
An Advocate Of American Silks
HOW 10 Make Up GOwn-Thc
Htnd OF Ties Worn by Men, other
gossip.

Gossip.
special Correspondeneeof Gazette and Journal,
Ngw YoRK, Fob. 22.-It the wedding of
"cloth Of triezs" and "cloth Of "goldp ia
thing of the past, it ia very certain that
the nearest approach to it, the nine
teenth century edition of the romance in
gowns, is in the union of silk and wool.
For some time Pingst and Worth
have been making costumes In
this way but 1t seemed as IL
the average woman could not,
all at onue, appreciate the artistic
contrast as offered IN the two materials,
one bringing out all the richness of the
other, while it did its part in showing
With what grace and ease its exact oppo.
site could fall into folds that brought Joy
to ths artistic nature. Nuns yelling,
cashmere and vigogne (Which, as the
initiated know is camels hair with the
hairs closely clipped) are chosen and
combined with either surah or brocadsd
satin.
The last IL of course the more elee giant
but there oome times when a plsiL or
fabric Ia desired; something thoroughly
nice Ia wanted and hey presto you
choose the eurah and are hsppy, or at
ltAbL Du2lL W uts IL lh u tnAJ
wears well, suits a gentlewomsn and ia
inexpensive; attributes that cannot be
attached to many stuifs.
Women, as o rule, keep clear of politics,
and they are wise; most OF them, however,
read the newspapers aud few have failed
to see the Ions and abominably tirssome
articles on import and export,
revenue, sometimes for tariff only,
nj har mia thap hn
international copyright and the American
pig, but how many of them know of
American silk 7 And how many OF them
are conscious when they wear them
These silks have no mark by which they
may be distinguished and they are not
only sold here as Of foreign make, but
absolutely on the other side OF the water,
too | The manufacturers do not wish
this, but they cannot help themselves.
Last autumn | was ready to declare
them good, but this spring stamps
them as equal to any OF the imported
goods; especially is this 80 in surahs
and brooades. Down at John W. Stearns
& Co.'S. there was displayed brocade
that had upon it in lighter shade pond
lilies arising with their leaves from the
water in the light this shimmered and
looked like silver and there seemed
nothing so beautiful until beside 1t there
was placed q white one, similar in design.
Think OF front width Of this with gown
of satin or surah.
The gray tones are obtaining for spring
and summer wear, aud these brooadeG
will be used for long coats to bs worn
over skirts OF wool for drsperies in com
binstion with surah, aud for the vests
with Msrquise coats. A novelty is milk
rays satin. This is back ground OF
hair lines of two colors Drocaded with
flowers OF another hue, then the plain
stripe ia furnished for another part of the
costume the skirts drapery as ia
best liked. A black and
white has short plush upon It; another
with the same ground is OF acapin, a
gray and white has oirdinsl silks, aud q
black aud gray has black. These will
bs used for street wear, replacing to
certain extent the summer silk, always
an expensive toilette, aud one that never
suggested much dress on the part Of its
wearer. Such surshs in tones and tints
to suit each and every type of woman.
Then comes certain fseling OF "glad-
here" when it is remem-
bsred that they will probably
bs exported but will esttaiuly
not be imported. Rose cnt lilac
coquelicst "a bright red,) tonqnin (s
lively yellow,) ucmphe emeu, ecru,
cressou q yehowish gresn) and ivory
whites, are among the evening oolors ;
this ID material particularly liked by
fashionable mEmmRs aGd thoughtful
modistss for youug girls; lace by the
mile rather tbsu the yard, or embroidery
by the piece, may be Osed upon them
nt rtEluN nd hot
spoken OF as ''simplicity itseli you know
because she's just out" la all tue dark
shades sarah will bs used in street
wear by old and young embroidery
being the gArniture in most instances.
How to mske up your gown Here are
two on which were layished many
thoughts before they were pronounced
complete One is a gray nuns yelling
and brooa6e, the skirt of the wool fabric
is a killed one, is perfect in its shape,
being neither too short or too loug, hut
properly escaping the ground The
polouaise Ia closed all the way down the
trout by small crochetted buttons of gray
silk, but they are almost hidden updel
the cascades of oriental lace that are OIL
each suit. The looping in the back IL
very bouffants in effect, but is &c
arranged that the loose edge is perfectly
even. The sleeves are the usual Goa
shape, padded a little where they arr
raised on the shoulder aud having
deep cuffs made of trills o
lace. AT the throat ia wori
a frill Of lace fastened with a jet pin. =.
20 with this toilette there are six buttoi
gloves Of gray undressed kid that 8
uudsr the sleeves, a gray silk umbrell
lined with roBe-color, aud gray Chi
cspote wIeatbed with blush roses. har
mOnyi Yes, in gray and ro2e. Tn
other IS dark brown sursh; the shOr
skirt has a front of saggiug puifs, whil
the square psnels on each side ar
crowned with scsnt frllls OF cream whit
embroidery. The draping in the back
very fnll, very much looped and 20 Ion
that IL almost hides the bo
plating, that is the JET trim
ming. The Msrquise cost
of tue brown surah with a vest I
cream white /; 1t is, of course, withou
trimming, alot of the embroidery wor
at the throat adding to the historicsl loo
and suggesting the ancient regime al
the court Of Louis Ia Grand. Cuffs of Il
embroidery and gloves of brown nj
dressed kid are worn, while the umbrell
10 covered With silk like the costume an
Aineu WIN ludt iho tue fost' iho nav
manila with cream tips upon it, and
worn we'll forward over the forehead,
that the wesrer need not worry about Il
condition OF her bangs. This was
symphony in browns, for what is crea
but the daughter of white and brown
Full skirts and round bodices are wor
and will be; some women finding the
too becoming to cast aside, and very SCI
sible are they.
Coquelicst is very bright red tn
Worth is pushing in Paris, but as Anne
lean women long ago declared tn ir ind
pendence 1t is hard to say whether it "
obtain here or not. Certainly 1t ia rath
warm looking shade for summer day
wear.
In the "Princess Ids'' there is ii
ing illustration OF the ability of blond
"a pure one of course), to wear yello
One of the students with yellow hair a.
blue eyes is dressed In an Academic 81
OF yellow satin and yellow sat hi
Result, she is beautiful glOws like sol
glorious topaz, and proves that Rube
and Giorgione did know what they we
about when they drsped Hindu WON
In yellow, and that Ellen Terry's Yell
gown in "Tns Merchant of Venice"
not without its admirers and initiate
Sunshine is becoming to all women, W
not yellow, the favored child of the sui