Morning journal and courier., 1884-01-18
Price Two Cents

entirely to propellers, Side wheel ocean boats no longer exist in the Orient save on this Shanghai line, and there only because they are better adapted for the navigation of the Inland Sea.
 At Irsci ely four o'clock we weighed anchor and at the same moment the Shanghai boat united from the buoy. In unison we started up the bay, cutting our path through thousands of quivering polypi that hoated near the surface of the water. It soon be- came apparent to my amaZsment that we were distancing the fast mail boat. In an hour we had left her far behind. In three hours we overlook and passed the Canton. This wss exhilarating travel for a native boat, and began to understand 1t only when was told that had chanced to take passage on one of the three fastest boats in Japanese waters, Not only were her officers English, but her accommodations were adapted to the needs of European and American travellers, and (barring the heas and cockroaches which never can be induced to travel exclusively in the hteerege,) were quite satisfactory There was but other Eunppeau passenger aboard, moreover, so that Nwas really pleas an'~r than the crowded mail boat could have been.
 Inc weather was perfect, and the all-day view of tha mountains of Japan afforded from the steamer the next day was decidedly entertaining. An almost continual school of porpoises vas encountered, some times made up of those which were large and auiacious bey ond anything which had ever seen hitherto. They would leap high ont of the water and chase each other across the vessels bow without the slightest concern for their own safety. Whales were also sighted quite numsrously, and in the evening the wake of the vessel was brilliant with the beautiful phosphorescent green which is said to form such an interesting study for mutu- ally sEuitten young couples aboard ship that pIn amining it
 The same steamer had come from Hako- date, way up in the cold island of Yezo, be- fore departing for Kobe, and consequently had on board quite quantity of tho Hako date salmon which inhabit the seas of Yezo that are managed exclusively by Japanese, but as yet these larger ones retain their for eign officers.
 Kobe is a primo English settlement not near as large as the Bluffs at Yokohama, nor ss eiaborately laid out Yet on the other hand it Is not so ultra English in it's seclu- sion of the home as is the foreign portion of Yokohama. Of course 8 certain retirement is desirable for the home, but I have not yet got used to the complete isolation cul- tivated in these English settlements The Bluffs at Yokohama is really very pleasant place, but the only way for the traveller to find this out is by taking ladder AIOnR Ntth AlLl duu AAdhIDg d pSESOlHl 61am- nation of the various premises What sat- isfaction cen there be in walking along a winding gravtled road between two huge stono alls, or o dismal hedges Hedges very pretty, and stone walls very con- venient in some places; but to ram them un- der the very nose of the pedestrian, thus screening from him even the smallest glimpse of the interior, is robbing him of an enter tainment justly his The only way to dis cover that the Bluffs is an attractive place is by carrying a laader, and climbing to the top of the fence as you progress.
 If you are in search of a certain number this English ysten is especially annoying (that is, 1t Is annoying to an American. suppose it is all in becoming used to thing rhe gates of these jAii-ho are shut, locked and doubly barred in fully seven cases out of ten; and if by some good fortune you chance to cut your weq through to the door of the jail itself you are greeted by Japanese imbecile in the way of a porter, who looks at you and wonders why you don't say what you want in Japanese. but never for minute thinks of motioniEg you to a chair while he goes for someone who can speak English.
 Another annoy ance to which those Bluffs martyrs voluntarily subject themselves in man. oases is that of a native watchman who lives with his entire family, numbering sev- eral scores of persons l should judge, right
 
 hedge or wall These watcbmen do net stand with loaded guns awaiting the arrival of guests; but their aspect is almost RS unas- sl9ina- ~fs 2 yery common eight to enter a handsome compound and find the wstc1- mans clothes ado1 uing lines stretched from tree to tree ln the front yard
 But if this wetcbrnan Is tyrant during the day time. what shall be said of him at night, when every half hour he passes clear around, the compound, whscking two sticks of wood viciously together, so that you are i'm pelled to scream when wakened from a short fitful slumber by the unearthly sound2 How anybody can endure this half hourly serenade, and then pay for 1t, is more than I can un- derstand.
 Kobe is altogether different Every body is at once pleased with the cleanly and eminent ly comfortable look of things. Here are homes, not jails; and not even the most inn p=rious Eneishman can fail to admit that the homes lack nc needful privacy. The city is built on t5rraced hillside. and is full of charming vie@s, which are not marred by the introduction of frowning walls and dreary hedges. EMILE.