St. Paul daily globe., 1884-09-14
OUR FASHION LETTER.
New York Fashions; A Winter of
Wool; VelvetS; Silks; Millinery;
September Notes.
Especial Correspondence of the Globe.l

myst cries. New colOrs are there; among
which come forth brighter greens, golden
browns, grayish blues, blue or reddish prune,
bronze and moss shades; almost all blend
ing diverse mixtures. The golden brown Oft
en- a brownish gold; the bronze q greenish
brown or brownish green, ETC., such pleasing
uncertainties being wrought IN solid shades
or in more or less intricate and novel wear
ings while under the head Of novelties are
seen numerous woods plain surfaced or other
wise that are diversified by cheerful patterns
such as Strawberries in natural size and col
or, gay cherries, roses and the like, black
patterns and stripes in grave at bright alter
nations are stylish; very noticeable ad-
dition on some novelties beinga border band
of the new frise or curled weavngs initiating
astrakan. This last is a special feature OF the
Fall and will appear in many ways and class
es OF goods. The perennial cashmere pre-
sents itself in a never firing attractiveness
but new varieties ara illumined by minute
silken figures initiating embroidery and cos
tunes are being prepared of the two in COM
bination.
WOOL yELYETS
are important in materials and show firm
twilled surface supporting raised figures IN
large rep or with the thread curled over.
The latter especially are effective but need
toning by an addition Of plain goods to cor
respond. The same be said however Of all
fancy figured goods which scarce ever are
without complement OF plain. Reps are
prominent and beginning with repped wool
ems of many degrees aud running up to pop
linz ,rf+ rrr-iI1 lpo1-
ing position iu winter garb, such lead being
followed by mohars and alpscas. The fam
lily Of cloths renew their lease Of life and
while differing markedly, show family like
ness, among them, nothing more full Of
character than bison cloths in which we have
as a variety, the bousette bisons where strik-
ing effects arise by cross stitches holding
down the rough threads so as To form bars
and stripes. Roughest OF all come bison
cloths striped with curled astrakan on triSe
threads. Ribbed or trlcot cloth is in more
favor than the plain while more distinguished
than any perhaps are the Kensington cloths
displaying the new embroidcres arranged
in blacks running around the bottom
of the costume or descending in pcrpendcu-
lar stripes Kensington cmbroideries more
over are rvacd by others done in India and
tapestry cross stitches where faded colors
are stylish. Astrachan Jersey cloth is too
bold a departure to constitute more tlan
limited part OF the costume although scrawny
Individuals may regard it as a blessing
when made into ampIyfying jackets. Pru
nclla is a revival rather than novelty and
made OF silk and wool is plain with raised
velvet figures
vELvETs.
The Seer OF but limited vision can foretcll
a winter Of velvet. New colors grow enriched
and softened in their elevation from wool to
silky stufFs and an Autumn light glances on
cXpanscs Of smooth surface or such as are di-
ycrsiiicd by curled loops forming frise fig
ures by chine or changeable colorcd pile by
very novel stripes Of contrasting colors. some
quite wide or by alternating different. Then
.hcre gay vevets figured either in satin
or with velvet where the colors may be uni
form or with velvet OF longer pile than
tne ground work. Cunning dots OF satin are
sunken in and CLEAN out coquettlshly small
flowers present counter attractions or n pret-
ty fruit such as strawberries or cherries. In
greater dignity appears large flowers in self
dies and will be very fashionable for cloak
ings, but from the fanciful ideas just men
toned we may expect many bright touches
in a material usually looked upon as hand
some yet somewhat sober As touches and
where rightly applied they will be most effect
i've. Uncut velvet Is largely imported and
will be in great demand. The success of vel
vctcen is assured and when really good as in
the case OF the peerless Nonpareil, It will be
constantly substituted and with satisfaction
to both wearer and bcholdcr. The new
thoughts find representation here; colors are
distinguished while novelties in wearing give
room for great chotce.
SILKS.
Silks follow new colors both In the plain
and in the brocades, the latter especially Civ
ing proof of how much can be done 10y COM
biuations. Stearns American brocades are
especially beautiful, the patterns rich IN the
extreme
while in durability they surpass imported
fabrics. The American industry has indeed
reached such proportions as would surprise
those who have not studied the subject for
cign manufacturers dread its growing power
and look apprehcusiycly upon the increas-
ing popularity of our manufacturers, espcci-
Ally where such a brand rs the Que Just
mentioned commcnds itself each year more
and more; becoming really, Il household
word. Stcarn's American Surahs are like
wise, quite up 10 the usual standard, Gle
CANT, durable, fast coorcd aud stylish they
~, sought after hy judicious shoppers since
under the seycrest tests and close comrcti-
tion, they have won n verdict oi approval.
To lady OF limited means, a dress OF this
kind is q sure refuge while most attractive
costumes are being made up OF the Su-
rahs aud brocadcs In combinations Satlns
will De important in fail wear, aud hand
some brocades are of velvet on satin ground.
MLuSEuY.
The percuu ial capote appears again but
a newer style that will command itself 10
drcssy buyers by reason of aoyelN and
certain coQucttshucss Is shape as small
rs the capote but with sudden, Sharp peak
above the forehead which f, filled 10 with
lace or ribbon. Small yoke honuets are
also largely imported but viii probably De
secondary 10 the pointed shape just mer-
toned Round hats show high polluted
crowns with marrow brim Choice OF mate
rial lies between felt and velvet, the latter
being very much used also in trimming
with lighter accessories OF black or fancy
eilded laces and velvet ribbon from two 10
three inches wide which has sometimes
reverse side OF gros grain or satin. Uucut