Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-03-02
THE SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY MARCH 2, 1884,

they can adapt styles and colors to them. |
This developes another curious fact; that |
women have no illusions in regard to |
themselves, and to one who |
does not know them, or is
never likely TO see or become personally |
acquainted with them, they speak of their
own shortcomings, of 'tsallOwness," or |
the possession of a ''gOod" or s'pOOr"
figure, and other more or less noticeable
defects OF face or form, with relentless ac-
curacy and from purely impersonal
point Of view.
Possessing a conscience and anxious for
facts | asked a fashionable dressmaker
how she would make up summer outfit
III February. "FrOm last years models"
she replied.
e But the vest is going out. The new cloth
dresses are made with pleated skirt, close
Jersey bodice, and short draped apron,
the folds of which are lost in the drapery
at the back. A spring costume of otto
man silk has short skirt, the front form
ing lengthwise folds, or soft triple pleat
terminating in puff, and two gathered
flOunces. The over-dress has a skirt front
forming deep double puff, divided by
waistband which holds the sides of the
bodice, the back forming an extended
drapery which is rather fiat at the sides,
extending into pleated panels below the
hips but full at the back. The sleeves are
high and close, and short mantellet held
in at the back with ends pointed and
gathered in front and Ornamented with
ribbons in addition to a double row OF
land pendant silk buttons, completes it
for visiting or the street.
Muslin and lace dresses over silk follow
conventional form. The bodies are
square or heart shaped; the sleeves, to the
elbows, or short; the lace flOunced and
draped across the front, and draped or laid
in succession of pleatings at the back.
The muslins are made with deep gathered
flOunces, a short rounded apron with lace
finish, and belted V-shaped waist. Also
with apron over a skirt tucked lengthwise
in front and gathered straight at the back,
the apron having wide bow and long wide
ends. Short straight skirts and short
aprons and pulled drapery at the back is
the popular method in treating pOngee and
light solid fabrics, the lower part of the
front striped with embroidery alternating
with upright folds, and the bodice having
a skirt front also outlined with embroide-
ry.
WHITE AND BLACK PoNGEEs.
Quite a new departure has been made
in pOngeeS by the introduction of white
and black in addition to the dull bun and
ecru shades to which we are accustomed
and which are not becoming to all COM
pleXions-specially unbecoming' indeed,
to those who are fair with a touch of sal
lOwness. The white pongees are soft,
delicate, very cool, and lovely for young
girls and young married women. They
are daintiest embroidered with white SILK,
so as to be all white. but they are very
pretty also embroidered in cOlOrs in rather
prim conventional borders and patterns.
The black pOngees are cool and take the
place of Canton crepe, or crepe-de- Chine
no oft ~ of
! dress or as gathered OYer-dresses for satin
skirts, the belt being made of the satin
and the folds down the side of the pleated
| skirt front of the satin also, unless the
pongee is trimmed with embroidery upon
| itself.
GREY LENTEN DRESSES.
The costumes which have been pre-
| pared with special reference to the Lenten
! season are grey more than black. Some
| are grey trimmed with black velvet but
= ;;SaA "high" ritualistio costumes are
! straight dresses of grew wool, the front
! of the skirt laid in upright folds, the back
box-pleated. The high close bodice cut
| out in a narrow square and filled inwith
folds and band of black VdVet,
with upright, crumpled, or fine plated
ruAlo.,,l square able ends of muslin sur
rounding the tnrv@ st The s ss n are
/ close, with small puts owe. VIC 'o0" ".
| The mantle is of grey wool plan
| checked: has loose sleeves lined with
| satin. and is fastened at the throat with
| a clasp Of carved wood. ne S" @"..Hf IS
of gathered nuns yelling, lined with
satin and trimmed with satin and pom
pOns.
The spring hats that have made their
appearance are straws, the braids for
which were imported the previous season
and made up in this country, The crwns
are generally very high, the brims very
narrow, and the shapes so striking to
| be ObtrusiVe, and to many undesirable.
Naturally women Will fall back upOnOOn-
nets, which have been small of late but
sufficiently varied to suit quiet tastes and
also those of more dressy tenden cie6 the
materials having contained elementspar-
ticularly rich and attractive.
t DEPTH IN srOURNING.
Tbare IS movement in the wearing and
J maki-s OF mourning for near and dear
f-Ohds which needs to be chronlcIed. II
may De because so many have discontinued
the wearing of mourning altogether that
In0se VINO still continue the custom con.
slder IL necessary to emphasize il
as lhuch as possible. A mourning QUITS
| thing upon the first dresses, but the
heavy folds of double English crepe, the
| depth of which upon the skirt was nearly
TO the waist, the lower reaching above the
| knee. The bonnet was entirely of crepe
and it's trimming was a veil fastened sc
as to fall at the back to the top of broad
| band of crepe that bOrdered the coat
| The material was fine, double, jet black
Henrietta cloth, and the lining of the
coat was heavy, dull armure silk. Fol-
| morning wear at home was a long black
cashmere, princesse cat, with small, dull
"black currant" buttons, and black
pleated crepe lisse at the neck and wrists
The battlemented band at the throat dis.
closed the crepe lisse between the
/ squares. The home dinner dress was OF
| rich but dull armure silk with demi train
bOrdered deeply with solid crepe. Small
de Medici collar of crepe with inside
pleating of crepe lisse (black), and de
! Medicl cuffs of crepe turned upon the
arm. What is called a plastrOn, formed
of folds of crepe. constituted the front OF
the bodice. Heavy folds of crepe ar
ranged as a diagonal apron traversed the
upper front of the skirt and assisted to
! form the drapery, which was massed on
the point of the bodice. Lace of any
! kind, black or white, is not permitted so
! long as crepe is worn; but when that is
| removed, black lace and beaded work may
! be used for OrnamentatiOn and finish of
! the dull and lustreless kinds.
JENNY JUNE.