Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-12-06
From Our Own Correspondent.

ing SnrIstmas.
Prom Our Own Correspondent
New YORK December B.
Little in the way of FULL dress is seen in
New York previous to the Christmas holidays
even at the opera. The beautiful and striking
in costume are derived mainly from weddings
and their accessories. and, for the rest from the
new arrivals and temporary visitors at hotels
who, particularly if they are brides on tour,
sometimes make singular display. woman
Of genuine fashion does not wear her finest
clothes between seasons or in a very public
or mixed assembaga any more than man
would wear his dress coat before six o'clock or
In a street car without an OvercOat. Therefore.
when you see lady in a trailing white satin
dress and diamonds in an hotel elevator Or its
restaurant previous TO being taken to the thea
ter or opera you know that she is inexperienced.
to say the least, and will probably conclude that
she wears her wedding dress because she has no
other that she considers quite equal TO what is
to her an extraordinary occasion. A woman
with the habit and experience of society under
such circumstances. might wear as rich a dress
but it would be dark and short. and not too
open, though sufficiently so for the display Of
lace and Jewels to tighten and brighten it, Few
women even Of large fortune have more than a
couple of entirely new evening dresses for a
single seasOn-perhaps not more than one. This
is reinforced by the handsome toilets they have
on hand; by one or more additional dinner
dresses and by combinations OF elegant skirts
with Jackets or bodices Of some other fabric
The grand toilets are made for some important
occasion, or they are prepared beforehand and
reserved for an event OF sufficient interest to
bring them out. Visits to the opera are too
frequent. wedding receptions too crowded and
usually too informal. and occupations too many
and varied to permit of ceremOniOuS dressing
until after the autumn and holiday shopping
and the business of Thanksgiving is over. And
here it may be remarked, that since the Observ-
ance of Christmas has become so universal it
1t would be greatly more convenient to have
Thanksgiving take place in October The two
festivals come too near together. and Thanks
giving. which corresponds to the English Har-
yest-hOme loses its significance by being post
poned to the edge of the winter months
To return to opera dressing. If at this early
period 1t is somewhat mixed and undecided in
its general character. it usually affords an OPP
pOrtunity for the display of the latest and most
stylish bOnnets- This year has been no eXcep-
ton TO the rule Some of these show brims
with two points instead of one. and nearly all
soft cOnical crowns and trimming massed high
upon the front. One of these was in bronze
velvet and Ottoman silk with pink feathers; an
other in red velvet with gold upon the edge of
strings A very handsome dress of sapphire
Ottoman satin was trimmed with cream lace
embroidered with small delicate fiOWeretS, and
the bonnet was made and trimmed to match.
with the addition of u group OF ostrich feathers.
4 cOlOred bonnet does not. however look well
with a different cOlored dress. no matter how
handsome each may be separate. they do not
look so we'll together a costume complete,
even made OF inferior material. This is under
stood, and is acted upon very generally by those
-tNS.l- hoe
ity in detail is some times carried to absurd ex-
tremes: but il Is based upon an essential prinCi-
pie and cannot betranSgressed without creating
confusion and disturbing or reducing the value
OF the whole. Naturally. much of the finest
dressing, not being strictly evening or opera
attire, exhibits new and complete carriage and
calling costumes. Among these was one in dark
wine cOlOred velvet. with flat knife-pleated vest
OF pink silk, outlined with gold embroidered
cream lace little plating OF the silk was also
introduced into the sleeves. which were finished
interiOrily with lace. The buttons We're beautiful.
They were small. shaded pink, shell-like PLAQUES
with pearl set in them. The bonnet had pink
crown yelled with the lace. and lace brim with
pulling OF velvet at the edge. and high conical
group OF wine-cOlOred feathers. A costume of
ottoman satin in ecru tint was greatly admired
the combination being entirely ecru and cream
lace The latter trimmed the bonnet. which
was without feathers or flowers. but very distn-
guished in shape and very becoming. The front
OF the dress formed full skirt OF cream lace,
which descended upon the skirt and was tied at
tie throat, and across the waist line with ecru
Ottoman satin ribbon in long loops.
=. Ecru and cream are placed in highly fashion
able conjunction this season. The tints are soft
and produce lovely effects-much more subtle
and delicate Than the white and gold which has
been tried more or less In combination for the
past twenty years. and. indeed. since the DAYS
OF the Golden Fleece. but has found a greater
number OF admirers among cultivated women
since the shading in gold and the tHts in the
white admitted of a toned arrangement without
crude or startling contrast. Last year the diff
fculty of dressing to suit the cold and vacant
spaces In the interior Of the Metropolitan opera
house was commented upon. This year a great
Improvement has taken place. The boxes have
been draped and more warmth and color put
into the decoration. and the opening night
having unusual significance to the admirers of
wagner and those who have witnessed the re-
llglouS conservation which characteriZes the
rendering OF his great works abroad presented
a scene OF exceptional brilliancy, tempered only
oy the serious attention and earnestness of the
audience, which seemed disposed to assist in
the work. This absence of flippancy and friyOl-
ity extended to the tOilettes. many OF which
were beautiful. but had more dignity than is
often noticeable at the opera. Among the
noticeable dresses was one of heiotrOpe satin
and gold brocade; another was gray brOcade in
large shaded pattern. with plated front of
lace over pink satin. One lady wore an elegant
out perfectly plain gown of brown velvet with
amber comb and necklace; and one dress of
black velvet, with transparent amber beads fes-
TONED in double rows from the left shoulder
There were many white dresses some embroid-
cred by hand-the prettiest of nuns cloth, with
embroidery in chenille. But perhaps the most
effective dress was ruby velvet with open
bodice finished with gold lace, and showing a
magnificent ruby pendant set in diamonds
WEDDING BELLS
Weddings. perhaps. have not been as MINER
Gus as usual this autumn-accounted for as has
been the falling of in everything. on the ground
OF its being presidential year. but some of
those that have taken place have been strikingly
beautiful, and even presented original features.
AT one, church wedding. two ministers were
employed-One marrying the bride to the groom.
the other the groom to the bride At lovely
home wedding the mirrors were yelled in a net
work OF maiden-hair ferns and small starry
White blossoms. At another the ushers wore
cream satin vests. the edge only visible. and
ties OF rich cream lace with square ends
The large patterned brOcades and combina-
tons OF satlns and brocades are not approved
Tor brides by the highest authorities They look
too Old A bride is apt to look older than she
Is In any case the conventional dress being very
trying one. unless carefully selected and ar
ranged, and sometimes decidedly unbecominc.
The most elegant dresses made for brides re-
Gently have been of very thick and lusterless
satin, ivory tinted and trimmed with valuable
ouenesse lace. Round-pOint lace is rarely used
ana never suitable for brides, or indeed for wear
at all by ladies under forty Duchesse lace is
lighter, more delicate and retains its color well.
The duchesse lace used On one OF the brides
dresses referred to was made in the lannon's ad