Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-08-30

4
cess Of "brau>sfyiug" IN honor Of an APP
proachiuz v,sN Of The Khedive, and with
doubtful result. I~ cmbeilish place in
the ksssfsn's mind consists In givina the
huix unsl houses tcpious coatinxs OF white
wash, running mp painted latticc-werk.
arhcs, screens and roadway devices,
slringine rows AZ colored lamps on house
tops, poles, along bridges, streets, and ba.
zsrs, and, finally, hanging every rag In the
nature OF Tag or any place ieit vacant.
by such methods rs these, carried out at
every available spot, Slut certainly hsd
been given all the gayety Of sspcct which
| could be desired. The towR stands a con-
siderable distance from the river, from
| which sandy but good road, raised high
ont Of reach Of the inundation. leads 70 the
nam gate; for Slot possesses quite an iB-
\ posing gate, made 81 laftice-work. with
Vuard.houses Of mud ranged at It's sides,
| and looking as though the whole thing only
| required slight thrust 10 send 4 firing in
a cloud OF dust 20 the four winds OF heaven.
| Al this portal are generally collected a
struggling crowd OF goats, donkeys, and
fellabeen carrying wares TO market, while
a few Zaptiehs, who represent the
majesty OF the law IN Egypt look laziy
| on Of the confusion. These officials can
be exec edingiy brave when accostiDg the
/
/ Coptic pig, Inducing besrt-disclse into
the frightened turkey, or performing sun
| dry other childish freaks, but seldom do
! they show fight 10 a man. The bastinado
is simple and quiet, while such divinity
doth hedge the doings Of q Zaptleh that
| justice dare but peep at what she would.
We now enter part OF the Nile where
| ieathercd game OF all kinds begins to be
| plentiful, and from each sandbank and
shoal The passing boat will disturb count
| less birds holding parliamentary discus
sions oil break in upon their aiter-dinner
| meditations. Flocks Of pelican. cranes.
stoIks, and the small but beautiful white
| ibis may everywhere be seen. aud the river
sides are alive with cbattering host. OF les
ser birds. Thick groves Of sont-trees and
| palms stretch from village TO village, and
| until we reach Ekbmcen, fifty miles south
| o. Si1t, the country presents cOntinu-
| Gus belt OF yerdure, hommed In by
| the inevitable dcsert-hills. Ekhmeen itself
il picturesquciy situated, and IL reflects
some credit on the aged Ncstorius that he
chose this place 10 end his long exile in. II
is reputed 10 be one Of the oldest towns OF
Egypt, its foundation being even ascribcd
TO =" Ekbmeen, son OF Misraim, the of
spring Of Cush. the son Of Ham," Nor is
tins difficult 10 believe. for the village wears
an antiquaiod appearance that would fit it
for almost any date this side u the deuge.
a few miles further south OF Ekhmeen are
the famous cliffs OF Gcbel Tookll-a constant
menace TO passing dahabeeahs-at the
southern limit Of which stands The impor-
tant town OF Girgeh. This place takes
its name, by the bye, from the patron
saint OF Cappadocia and of England.
81. George, originally. so history tells |
us, bacon contractor OF doubtful |
honesty and no character worth speaking |
Of. Though large, Girgeh Is very dirty in |
appearance, and so winding are ITS streets
that IL Is far easier task TO enter than TO |
escape from their tortuous twistings. Yet |
II, happily, the wanderer should pass safely
from their mazcs 10 the bazaar he win see
there perfect specimen Of this heart OF
Oriental cities. so crowded Is il that only
the slowest OF PAGES is compatible with the
movements OF the ebb and flow OF its East
ern tide. Overhead, from housetop to.
housetop, stretch pllm-leaf and mating
screens, through the riffs and gaps OF
which streams in the sun, checker
ing the dark roadway with bright
patches OF light. Bright-turbaned Arabs
iii cross-leggsd on the counters OF their
booths prasing their wares of cloth or
scent or beads, and adding their voices to
the murlnur OF the elDowing throng which
ainlessly surges before them. Among this
stream OF color, sauntering through the
dusky gloom OF the place, NAV be seen all
the many types which ill an Eastern ba-
gar. The vendors Of cooling drinks, pro-
claiming their presence with Gathering
cups OF brass or poetic advice to buy; the
women pushing their way
among the gay crowd; the men walking
hand in hand, after the Arab fashion; the
ia In ouff OFT AlI5
rushing wildly about OF playing in
the dust, which Is the nursery which
nature has given them IN common with the
dogs; the cake and bread-sellers sguatting
by the roadside, spreading their strange
looking edibes under the passer's feet, or
balancing them on wicker trays upon their
heads; the net slung before the I'M |
guarded door TO intimate its owners alb
sence; and the silent salutations Of the
Arabs or their noisy disputings over some
bargain. At the street-eorners are gathered
the fruiterers, with tall piles OF sugar-cane
rearing their green and purple stalks against
the dark walls Of the mud-huts, and the
with brawny arms stained TO
he sbou lderS, hang their calico stuffs in the
'un 10 dry. Here, in the shadow of tum-
)led wall, crouckes man with his head 10 4
mothers lap. He is being shaved, and. |
mark you, the saucer filled with water and ,
he ancient razor, which form the insignia [
II the native barber. Some hamal staggers [
)ast carrying strapped ACROSS his back the
Kin OF a goat filled with water, TO which $
lis every movement imparts q life-like wob- 4
he. while from the open neck he incessant- d
y spurts great Jets OF water, thereby ex- n
hanging the dust OF the road for the doubt o
III advantage Of mud. Beggars innumera- b
lie; distortioned creatures hobbling along H
. the throng and trading on their misera- il
lie defOrmities; idiots" the children Of [,
Illah and the backsheesh lisping askers a
Those name in Egypt, as in ali the East, is d
egion, add their quota TO the hum of the a
azar, while high overhead, from dawn TO Il
We, shrek the kites and yultures, sweep n
ne The city with their keen eyes and envy "
ng the ragged dog his siesta on some n
oveied dustheap. "
Beyond Girgeh the landscape becomes OF
cry varied, and many fields link the palm. n
eiled villages. Near Bellianeh fertile d
lain extends as far as the eye can see in n
ariOus shades Of green, borGered by the CT
istant contrast of desert hills. Small a
Wonder that ancient Thynis, the Abydos OF "
Id, was wealthy; for IN this amphitheatre el
] Nerdure nature seems TO grudgc the very q
atbs their fruitless presence, and here f.
nd there the gray dryness OF their Ii.
lm-cracked soil is invaded by the over eI
INNING crops OF wild herbs, which,
nding no other place in this laden
md, thus struggle for existence. Some
lille yoyager has likened the view of the
lie during the inundation TO that COM r,
landed from the edge OF saucer when
Ill OF water; while, when the river has
lllen, II is not much more extensive than y,
, seen from the bottom OF the same article
'hen nearly empty. This may he very
'ir definition for general purposes, since u
there high shores and receding scenery tn
onspire together, the view is naturally co
mited to the tufts Of grass browning the 10
aux. or some group OF fellaheen waiting nj
atiently for the ferry; but as rule the TO
ise OF the stream works very little effect
n the extent OF the prospect. Sc
AS we pass up these fertile reaches the 10
ext town OF note 10 be reached Is Keneh, OF
early 400 miles from Cairo, crouching br
mong maze Of sand-hills, and showing III
s position mainly by the many wind-mills eli
rected on their submits. Keneh is one OF 81
be principal places where are manufsc- ye
nred the various earthenware vessels used III
or storing the water supply Of the viz Ia
ages, the pitchers carried by the women, ca
nd the pigeon-homes already referred to. or
hen sufficient quantity OF these lars an