Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-04-06

gee, it requires lighting I'D in order
that its strength and beauty may be seen,
and fine jetted trimming-nOt upon lace,
but upon the material, or in the form of
passementerie or fringe-fulflls this
office. The virtue and vice of let is its
availability. 1t is used upon all the cheap
NANTES and as cover upon lace) for
cheap satin bonnets-bonnets that are
stretched upon blocked frame, covered
first with red or blue, or yellow or olive
satin, at % cents per yard, and then.with
jetted lace, with border for the brim and
the edge behind; the whole costing from
So to So. This shocking fact prevents
many from wearing jet.
THE SPRING DRESS FABRICS.
We have enjoyed the luxury now for a
long time of pure dress fabrics-pure
woods, pure silks, and pure cottOns. The
soft twilled serges and camePs-hair, the
Chuddah woods and cashmere; the dress
finished flannels and plain cloth suitlngs,
and last, but not least, the lovely nuns
veilings and pretty tinted delaines, have
been a luxury all the more appreciated
because attainable. With these we had
the twilled surah silks, plain and satin
finished, adapted to many purposes; and
while dressy and graceful, still compare
lively inexpensive. We have also had a
new era in cOttOns, which even vet has
not begun to reveal its possibilities, but
which has already given us an apOtheOsis
of the prints and ginghams, the satin,
jeans and cambrics, the lawns and muslins
OF our foremOthers. But the dealers and
manufacturers are becoming uneasy.
The pure materials clean and
wear too long, and are not easily
spoiled. They want to bring back the
pOplin, the mixed silk and wool fabrics,
the stuffs that cookie and crinkle and
collapse in shower, and are, therefore,
much better wear-for the manufacturers.
The effort in regard to the poplins will
not be made seriously until next autumn,
but large cOnsignments have already been
received and lain away, and the ground
is preparing for future campaign. 1t is
said that a change and great improvement
has been made in manufacture of the
Irish pOplins, and the result decided adj
vance in the softness and draping quail
ties of the fabric. But there is no such
change as this observable. 1t is precisely
the same horizontally corded silk fabric
that was always standing out stitfly, adj
mirably adapted % doWager dresses; but
not youthful, not adaptable and objection
able because, while costing as much as
handsome silk, it is not silk. 1t does make
handsome demi-trained indoor gowns in
black or gray or wine color for stately,
middle-aged DANES, whose light frOu-trou
days are all over, and if it can be kept in
its place, and made to serve its proper
and legitimate purpose, pOplin may re-
turn to us as soon as ii pleases. Queen
Victoria wears pOplin. She has also
newly curtained some of the apartments
at Windsor Castle with it, but the Prin-
cess of Wales will know better than to
wear it for the next ten years at least.
New silk and wool tissues have been re-
viz n n tho nlqOn of gIl.Gill- all
wool grenadines. They are pretty and
make INTO snowy toilets which trim eff
fectively with light beaded lace and
fringe. White and black pongees are
among the new and dainty materials for
summer wear-this fabric having been
before confined to ecru tints, which are
trying to some compilations. A great
deal of embroidery is used upon pongees,
this being its most effective decoration;
and some of the white embroidered in all
white are equal in appearance to the most
expensive china crepe. Shot silks have
been struggling for recognition for sew
eral years past, but their proper place in
the economy of dress is hardly under
stood, nor are the combinations of colors
always such as to satisfy an educated
taste. There is more risk in buying a shot
silk (changeable) than in buying a plain
silk, so many that look attractive in the
hand proving unbecOming. For this
reason many avoid them, and the dealers
have found them rather slow in selling.
The mistake has chiefly been in uniting
two positive colors, or colors too high in
tone. Some lovely and delicate combina-
tions have been exhibited lately, which
were purchased as soon as seen. Instead
OF cOlOrs, tints are cUmbined-ecru and
brown, ash gray and pink, pale gold and
plum, old gold and wine, and others.
These should be trimmed with pinked out
ruches or rufiles in the solid single colors
of the thread.
Some lovely spring brocades have made
their appearance one in the different
shades of moonlight gray, to be combined
with soft rich plain satin-tinished faille;
another combines the shades of the pc
tuna in petunia pattern, and may be
combined with a soft wood bronze or with
plain primrose or petunia satin. A but
tercup brOcade was made up lately of
satin in plain brown most effectively, the
brocade forming the upper part of the
panels, the lower part of the front of the
skirt and a skirt front to the bodice, to
the pointed end of which the skirt was
attached at the back.
Some magnificent pushes have also APP
peared, all silk, light in weight, but true
art fabrics. They are pain and figured
on q grand scale; the figures not embOss-
ed, but raised from the centre of the thick
pile without depressing or flattening their
environment. A superb costume in dark
gray has been worn by Madame Won
Stamwitz, of the Madison Square Theatre,
of this kind, the artist whose travelling
costume in the Alpin Roses has been pro-
duced by a leading house under the name
of the Lishia, the given name of the
Countess.
Among the art fabrics new soft silk
light. perfectly diaphanous, and intended
for summer draperies-has made its APP
pearance, which holds more delicate color
than could be believed or conceived. 1t
is in pale olive and yellow, and has small
leafess branches scattered with berries,
scattered over it in dull reds and browns
and greens. 1t is an exquisite design for
light dress draperies combined with silk
muslin or nuns yelling, which this season
is found in all tints and colors.
The satins sdrpass themselves in the
natural beauty of their designs upon the
usual dark and neutral grounds. The
curled edges and lovely shading of the
fieur-de-lis, the wild May roses, the pan
sizes and stock gillIe flowers and other gar
den favorites are reproduced to the life.
Old-fashiOned foulards are also revived,
and!chintZ cottOns in large patterns, which
bring back all the glories of the Dolly
' dAuEu VA anu ChlOulCh
ton of the beputfed Oyerdresses Of that
very pronounced era.
A great contrast to these are the mod
est, fine pin-checked and haIr-striped ging-
hams in lovely shades of yellow and pink
and blue buff, art green, ecru, red and
white, gold and brown, stone color and
blue; some solid, some diagonally check
ed and barred, or latticed with faint lines
of black. These ginghams are not cheap.
They are 40 cents per yard and 81 inches
wide, but they are refined, dainty, and
have lady written all over them. They
make lovely summer morning dresses in
the country, or would not be considered
out of place in quiet neIghborhoods at an
afternoon croquet or lawn tennis party.
They have usually been trimmed with
light embroideries, but now we have en-
broideries in colOrs which can be selected
to match the delicate tints of the ging-
hams, and thus seem to have been made
for them.
OUTDOOR DRESS
is decidedly simple, almost to severity.
The adaptation of color to laces and the
snowy ornamentation applied to thin fab
RIGS by recent improvements in machinery
is sure to be followed by deluge of color
and glitter, and already the evidence of q
great movement in color among the
masses is clear and strong. This is not
to be regretted. The mothers of the ma
iority of the daughters of to-day did pen
nance all their lives in grey cotton or
bIaaE oil Thar IiUnS vyorn Go6