Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-08-24

ness NAV be held in small pleas or tucss
instead Of gathers. The preference, how
ever, for heavy wool goods is for the pIqn.
smooth waist, and this can be diversified
by introducing vest, or square plastron
which may be full or fiat, or by the Use OF
reyers or bretelles extending from the
shoulders 10 the waist. Modistes here pre-.
fer 10 make round waists separate from the
skirt, leugthening it q few inches below
the waist line. and thrusting that part un-
der the belt TO which the skirts are az
tached; on English dresses, however, the
skirts are sewed permanently to the waist.
which Is finished by welting-cord In the
old.lashioncd way.
NEW BAsQrEs.
Basques are made in habit fashion for
stuff dresses, with the back shaped in
narrow square, and the position plcats
pressed as fat rs possible the sides are
then very short, and the front may be
sharply pointed. or else rounded, and only
n trie longer than the sides. Organ pleats
that are stiflly lined TO make them quite
round. and thus add TO the boufTant effect,
are on The back OF basques OF richer fabrics.
when velvet is used for the cellar OF wool
len basques, Il small quantity OF it may re-
appear in lengthwise folds in the back OF
The basque. For the tailOr-made basques
one side form each side OF the back is found
10 be enough; but even in these severe
dresses the French modistes use the narrow
double side forms introduced by Worth to
make the figure look slight. The short
shoulder.seams are now directly on line
with the shoulder, instead OF being further
back, and these are curved slightly against
the neck, in order 10 push the standing
collar as high up as 1t can be worn. The
collar Is now often cut In single piece,
without a seam in the back, and Is straight
in front so thst the edges meet. The only
turned.Over collar seen IL the notched coat
collar, which is shaped like that OF m1u's
morning coat, beng rolled only low enough
TO show the mercst glimpse OF folded scarf
or chemisette beneath. For more dressy
basques the pointed or square neck has avel-
vet reverS that opens over plastron OF
gathered lace, or else Of satin or OF muslin.
Sleeves retain their graceful close shape,
without fulness at the top, although still
slightly curved above the armliole by being
sewed In with the sleeve held on top; a
cord is again used TO strengthen the arm
hole. There are very deep and stifhy.lined
cuffs seen on many new dresses, while
others have merely rows Of braid or bias
band around the wrist. Sinele-breasted
basques are on very plain dresses, and
small buttons OF metal or OF crO-
cheted six fastens them. More elal-
crate basqucs have plain vest,
while others lap toward the left side, aud
are shaped there in any fashion becoming
to the wearer; thus for slight figures are
double.hreasted fronts Tapped almost as
wide at the waist line as they are on the
bust. or else crossed TO the left side diago-
nally, while for stout figures are pointed
vests tapering in at the waist line. The
vest Is often merely simulated with braid
or with velvet. and in nearly all cases it is
now quite fiat, as the full lIollere vests are
not suitable for thick stuffs.
poLoNAIsEs,
Polonaises in many cases form the greater
part OF the dress. making II really prin-
ces.e dress, requiring OILY the front OF o
skirt 10 complete it, instead OF an all-around
dress below an over-dress. The waterfall
poIonaisc is a favorite. and is very similar
to the Drincesse dresses that are made with
q basque and apron in front, while the
back is in continuous pincesse forms. In
such polonaises the fulness Of the straight
pleats OF the back is sometimes added mere
" in the two middle forms, and falls thence
in two very large box pleats laid in double
or in triple folds quite straight from the
tournure to the foot, while others have four
pleats that are single box pleats, two OF
which are extended from the side forms.
Other poonnises have all the drapery
gathered in roll at the top and set on the
edge OF Marguerite waist low on the tour
nure, and still Others have 1t draped and
iestooned in the old time Marguerite de-
signs, with tot bows or Toscttes OF velvet
ribbon or OF braid set over two Of the back
seams Just where the fulness is added
The fronts may be single or douOle-breasI-
cd, straight or diagonal, and one fashion
that remains in favor will be the bib tab.
lier. or apron polonaise, with the fulness
letcd in at the waist and eXtendingHp on
the ooTsage and below on the skirt.
SKIRTS AND DnAPERY.
skirts without fOunces will be used fol
heavy fabrics and for those Of stillly twist
ed threads, such as cheyiots, mohairS, etc.
These skirts will continue to be made over
false or foundation skirt OF lighter goods
such as alpaca or lining-Sik, and the out
side material will lie placed smoothly upor
these, with the lower edge dropping on Z
narrow pleatng at the foot. There is {
tendency to widen all dress skirts by put
ting full broadths in the back, and maxine
s,raighter front and side bresdths, fashion
| ing them much broader at the top thar
the closely gored breadths formerly used
The full effect, however, is more generally
given by the drapery, which must now
| be very high, or else very low in front, an(
which must be worn over cushion hustle
| Of hair or pleatings OF crin0line arranged
| TO support the back. Bias folds and tuck
| will continue in favor IN preference t
ilounces for wool skirts. Three bias lap
| ping folds, each four inches wide whei
completed, make a pretty border for tn
| foot OF the skirt, and may be OF the dres
| goods, or OF velvet, or satin, or other fabri
used In combination IN other parts OF tn
dress. The braided borders, panels, AM
| pleated skirts noted last week are not limit
cd TO wool dresses, but are seen also OF
| silk and satins, where the richest passe
menteries and bands Of velvet take tn
place Of brsids. Wide kilt pleats frou
four TO six inches broad are separated by
cluster OF two or three narrow pleats
These may extend all around the skirt, bu
are more often confined TO the front an
sides. Sometimes pleats are reversed
meet on the sides, and two rows OF button
are placed down each side. The four sue
cessive panels now used for covering Tn
front and side breadths are neat aud styliS
for flannel, cheviot, or cloth dresses, an
may be bordered with rows OF braid 0
with the interlnked rings OF braid that ma
be had In psssementerie that closely repre-
sents braiding done by hand. A horde
for the foot OF the skirt Is now also made {
very large tapping rings Of braid or Of "a
loon, and a narrower border 10 mate
trims the apron drspery.
Silver braid In rows or rings will be IN
stylish trimming for black cashmere dresse
aud there are ietted bralds to be used 0
silk and satins. A popular skirt revive
from the fashions OF few years ago hs
three side-pleated founces that cover IN
back breadths from the belt TO the foo
while only the lower flounce goes all I'll
way round; an apron then covers the plai
srace in front, and is made with lon
point at the middle near the foot, and
brosdened, full and wrinkled at the top I
extend back on the tournure and meet u
upper 1ounee OF the back. This design
excellent for gros-grain, satin, mohslr, {
cashmere dresses, with braid or PASSENGER
terie on the pieated founces, and one or tw
frills Of lace on the apron, or else band {
velvet, from which falls ball fringe or
pleating OF the material. A simple and 4
vorite style for the black silk dresses {
useful IN autumn has the back Of the ski
IN two waterfall pleats that may be cut |
one with the waist, or else In a sepsrai
| skirf fhasf p.lasts sro iipad and ora hal