The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1884-08-29
Features OF Inexpensiys Dresses.


The revival of belted wrists and the
single full SKIRT greatly simplifies the
work OF ladies who make their own
dresses, and also lessons the expense,
rs only. ten or twelve yards of material
are required. This style is especially
suited to the wash goods of the sum-
mer season, but it will also be appro-
pirate to the mohairs. pOplins, ETC., that
manufacturers announce for the next
winter. These stiff, wiry fabrics will
not he gathered to the belt as soft ma
terials are, but will be hung in plaits
that form lengthwise flowing folds, and
they will be trimmed with Tat bias
folds or with horizontal tlieks or APP
plique trimmings. instead of being
punched up in drapery or festooned as
! ilounces. This simple full dress will
probably continue to grow in favor, as
French modistes are terding toward
straight effects in their richest cos
tunes, and giving the bouffant appear
apce by means of tournures and ex-
tenders sewed inside the foundation
skirt instead of outer drapery. The
summer fannels or the moha'r dresses
for travelling, when made by mod
iste, even in the simple manner just
ted, will probably have a foun-
dation skirt, as the modistes think
a dress entirely to simple with
out this lower skirt, and they insist
that it will not hang we'll. The
amateur dressmaker, however, expert.
ments for herself, and finds the founda
ton skirt may be dispensed with in
wool goods, as it always should be in
wash dresses. Thus, breadth of
double width flannel will serve for the
front, and should be slOped slightly
narrower toward the top. and gathered
there; the back will require width
| and half of this wide flannel, and
should be held in two double box plaits
at the top. The back breadths are
only one or two inches longer than the
middle of the front breadth. The top
Of the front should be curved in by
sloping to suit the wearer's figure, and
either two or four darts may be taken 4
few inches long and each two inches
wide to take away some OF the surplus
breadth. This front breadth extends
very lar back on the dies, leaving only
about two-eighths of the belt behind to
be covered by the thickly-fohled box
plaits. These plaits should be pressed
their whole length. but should be
| tackled across to 4 tape only once about
three or four fingers below the belt.
The prettiest trimming for such a
dress is tucks two inches wide placed
half their width apart, and in any
number from three 70 twelve, as the
wearer fancies. A hem of the same
width rs the tucks is sufficient trim
ming. but there may also be narrow
plated fril at the foot. The width OF
such skirt is three and half yards
for ladies OF medium size. The plated
Norfolk Jacket of flannel, made single
breasted, with some narrow tucks and
wide belt is the waist for such o wool
dress. If this is not easily fitted, a wool
jersey will complete the skirt as suit.
Ii the wearer must have drapery about
the hips, she can have a very simply
shaped apron over skirt, or else one
dropping open on the left side
to show the tuckS of the lower skirt,
or else this may be merely an apron
confined to the front and sides. snd
caught by six or seven plaits just below
the belt on each side, and joined to the
box-plaited back breadths. Still an
other design for stout figures is that of
having round waist o. else round
back with a short pointed basque in
front. and the back breadths are then
made six inches too long. are plated
like ruche at the top. and this plat
ing is set on the back ut the waist line.
If it is preferred to plait the skirt all
around, the favorite way Is to hem and
and tuck it, making the tIeks near the
foot as a border. and lay the whole
skirt in lengthwise broad side plaits,
each a fourth Of a yard wide. Sashes
OF the material tucked across the end
are worn by slender young ladies. The
pointed yoke. with the material tucked
or plated below it. and also plated tG
the belt, suits slight figures, and is used
in wool goods. \ waist lining of sile.
STA should he neatly fitted, and the
yoke and plaits laid upon it smoothly.
-Hdrper'S Bd.dr.