The Portland daily press., 1884-01-11
Fashions for January.
On. Y. Times.l

IN T. Ilmes.)
Partisan modistes have of late brought
forth many more novelties than dress-mak-
ers. Scarcely day goes by without intro
ducing bonnet or hat new in shape or
trimming. The latest fashion in this line is
an exact imitation of the small baby caps
made in three pieces. 1t is of colored vel
vet, and the p eces are joined and fastened
against foundation of stiff muslin. Around
the border of the cap is full lace ruching,
with narrow satin ribbon loops intermixed.
Above the ruching, and covering its head
ing, is double piece of satin ribbon placed
fat against the cap. In the back is small
ribbon bow. The small cap is only trimmed
with three large rosettes of the same riobor.
The strings are of narrow ribbon velvet.
This hat is suitable for visiting and for wear
at the theaters. A peculiar ha' is the "Col-
umbine" shape, of moss felt. The crown is
very high, and fiat on the TOD. All the way
up on The left side are s0lphur-co'o ored wings
fastened down under ottoman ribbon bows.
The brim is very narrow, and is bordered
with ottoman galloon. The same galoon
surrounds the crown. A new covering for
bnnnets is like handsome ottoman, and is
stretched on frames like felt. 1t is of fine
galloon in silk soutache-work, and placed SO
close that it looks like fine ribbed goods
Capotes in all shades are of this article.
This is the newest material in ufe this sea-
son. A capote covered with this galloon-
work has fiat crown, and is bordered with
small roll stuffed with wadding and
covered with plush. This small piece is
taken around the face, and against this is
the bias band of goods which borders the
bonnet. The trimming consists of an Eng
lish Grape bow, with its soft loops extending
little to the left of the hat. The plush
strings are fastened on the left side. Ca
-2otes and round hats are trimmed with
scaffs- OF colored English Grape and plated
pieces Of the forming cockades.
Gauze is not onfy-iluch used fol- young
ladies' ball dresses, but Is, combined witn
other materials on ball toilefs-zoosr-m middle
aged ladies. Much of this tissue is sp0rrssed,
and the draperies are raised under fowefS
and birds. The young girls toilet of gauze
aid mOusseine de soir have small groups
of flowers all over the dress. For dresses
only trimmed with gauze only the latter is
generally used for the tunique aud draper
les. The skirts are usually of rich satin
embroidered or beaded down to the 'front.' For
dancing parties short skirts are much pre-
ferr+ to long ones. For those persons Who
do not dance, the long Court mantle train
is de rigucur. This train is fastened on
either side of the skirt in two or three
different places, under bows, flowers, or
fancy ornaments. Satin skirts often have
birds placed upon them singly or In groups
These small birds, with bright emerald
aud ruby heads, are most snowy, particu-
larly when combined with beads. They are
also in pink and black, in blue combined
with gray and red, in orange and black, aud
10 yellow graduating by different shades TO
red. There is as much variety in the colors
of these birds as in flowers, 50 their use will
be welcome novelty.
A very pretty ball dress is of broche
goods and ''tulle chenille" The broche
SKIRT is cut in squares, and falls over satin
plating Over the front of the skirt are
two tuIie scsrfs. In the back is q tulIe and
satin putting. The plain satin waist laees
IN the back and has five darts in front.
Around the low neck Is a dotted tule
drapery The short tulle sleeves are pulled
over satin lining, and have large bows on
the shoulders. On the left side of The SKIRT
AIKEN diagonally across the scarfs, are
sprays of flowers. On the left side of the
waist is a bunch of flowers. A velye,
opera dress is of black velvet and old-gold
broche satin, trimmed with black lace and
jet beads. The false skirt has a plated
velvet fiounce. The front Of the skirt forms
an old-gold broche draped satin apron. On
either side are two black satin quille-shaped
pieces embroidered with jet beads. Coming
from the quile and falling over the apron
are two wide fan-shaped pi eces of lace
These are formed by being sewed around a
ring of jet. In the back is velvet putting,
which is draped to about the csntle OF the
skirt, and then falls in straight plaits. The
velvet waist opens over an od-gold broche
plastron. The lower part, both back aud
front, forms three sharp points. The
basque is cut slightly up over the hips. One
vi The three poin in the back and the two
others are in the small siJe pl-ces The
Medcs collar extends ON the side of the
plastron, nearly halfway down the wa st.
1t is of black lace aud Network. The tight
titiing elbow sleeves have a lace rufle.
Long straw-colored gloves ase worn with
this toilet. The stockings suited to 1t are
old-goid silk, aud the slippers OF black satin
embroidered with JET
A very peculiar design for fancy dress
Called ''buissou d'ecrevisses'' has a skirt of
green satin merveilleux, trimmed with a
fringe OF seaweed and crawfish. Tue gauze
unique is bOrvlered with small shrimps aud
trlmmed with profusion of seaweed, with
the claws of the shell fish scattered here and
there. The green satin n.erveiIleux waist
Iorms culrass, Wolch laceS In the oack.
Around the neck aud basque is a trimming
To match the other part of the dress. A
baskelful of weeds aud fish is carried in
the hand. The ''cniffure" consists of the
head and claws of fish placed against
lunch of seaweed. Another costume is of
sky blue satin, trimmed with full putting
of water-green gauze. Against the skirt
are embroidered swallows in applique work.
The gauze unique has work 10 match, and is
draped high over the hips. On the left side
is bunch of seaweed, a net, and a sea-guli.
The lower part OF the skirt is arranged TO
initiate waves, with boas painted on silk In
applique work. The sky-blue satin waist is
pointed back and front and covered with
swallows also IN applique work. Abound
the neck is gauze draperv worked in the
same way. On one shoulder are shell,
some seaweed, and sea-gull. On the head
is sea-gull with ext, nded wings. The
stockings are of sky-blue silk and the shoes