Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-04-26

Twenty years ago bought terrapin for g a
as they sat in astronomical discussion the
other evening. "Now pay from $40 to $50
The diamond back terrapin stands way ahead of
anything else ever devised or created to tickle
an epicureans palate. 1t is the most delicate
and the most expensive dish that appears on an
American table. No man who is good eater
would give dinner party without it. The ter
rapin and canvass back must be on a table that
makes any pretentions TO correctness"
''What is the usual charge for an order of ter
rapin?" asked the scribe.
"A single order? Well. one person ordering
terrapin, and nothing else would have to paw
about four dollars. The terrapin would be very
small, though. 1t would take about two big
terrapin to go on with the rest of the bill OF
fare for dinner of from ten to twelve covers
which would make an extra item of about SO
The demand is increasing, and they are get
ting more expensive every year. 1t used to be
peculiarly southern dish. but now scarcely
northern or eastern man comes here that he
does not call for terrapin. The best market In
the world for them now is In New York. The
only trouble is there can't be enough had to
supply the demand. The appetite for them is
increasing, so that they are all being eaten up,
and there's always a call for more. There is
only one recognized way of preparing them for
into patties sometimes. and they are very much
sought by epicureans"
WHERE THEY CONE FROM.
''Where do they come fromi" asked the STAR.
'Many of those sold In the New York markets
are caught in the Delaware bay. Numbers are
caught around that locality, and most persons
could not tell them from those caught in the
Chesapeake. But the best terrapin found in the
world-the only kind the real epicurean will
have are caught right at the mouth Of the Poto-
mac and no where else. These bring the high
est price In the market, and the taste of one
brings delight to the heart of good eater.
They are very scarce and hard to get though.
They are caught one at time, and the oyster
boats bring to the market sometimes two dozen,
sometimes only dozen, or half dozen, or even
only oIe single terrapin. They are wilder and
harder to get in the summer. They are caught
then only by fishermen while seining for fish.
Every time they get one it is prize, and they
put him in pound until they get more. In the
fall they are fat and are easier to catch. In
September they stop feeding and sink into the
mud The fishers then rake for them with tOngs,
digging deep into the bottom Of the river and
along the shore for them. At this time they are
fat, and stay SO all winter If they are not dis
turbed. But II they get frightened out Of their
beds and crawl about much they scratch their
bellies, which worries them and makes them
thin"
WASHINGTON DISH.
''The terrapln ia entirely an American dish,
he continued, leaning back in his chair with q
meditative air, land 1t is more particularly q
Washington dish. When people come here they
always want terrapin. It used to be more 30
than 1t Ii now. 1t used to be that people would
come here to get terrapin, but now they have
become known better In other cities than they
were years ago. Statesmen and politicians have
often settled their difficulties over good terra
pin stew. Outside Of America the dish is not
known, and foreign ministers coming here nearly
always become passionately fond Of It. When
Reyerdy johnson was sent as minister to Eng
land, shortly after the close Of the war, upon
the very delicate mission Of settling
the dificuities arising from Engiands SYM
pathy for tho south, Mr.. Wormley went with
him, taking several dozen terrapin as pres.
ents to the court dIgnitaries, and they did good
diplomatic service"
LOVERS OF TERRAPN.
"Drummond, when he was British minister
here, was one Of the best eaters ever knew"
said the caterer. "and was passionately fond OF
terrapin. N. de Potestad Is very fond Of terra
pin. Sam Ward, the lobby king. who Is now in
Europe, could tell terrapin caught In the
mouth of the Potomac, and was q tip-top liver.
ExSeoretary EvaEts, ex-Secretary Robeson,