Delaware gazette and state journal. (Wilmington, Del.) 1883-1902, 1884-03-20
NEW SERIES. VOL. IV.-NO. 3s
THE NEW YORK FASHIONS
WHAT ROSILIND MAY HAS TO TELL
ABOUT FEMININE FANCIEs.
Spring HtiIinery-MateriaI Cotton
Goods-w WOODS and Silks-FashtOu
No;Hs-MDe. 1iOdjeska's ToiIeftes.

Spring HtiIinery-MateriaI Cotton
Goods-woois and Silks-FashtOu
No;es-MnIe. Modjeska's ToiIeftes.
| hrte IA core titItsItt .iie,Id J,iliI
NE1 York, March IA Small bonnets
top knotted are the rule in spring mil
linery, and the TOP. knot is to the bonnet
Whist Sam Weller's seasoning WAS to the
pie. 1t 'does it."There is moreover an evil
dent ascension in these top-knots and ten
to one, they no longer. incline to the left
side. We often see again a formal bow
OF velvet ribbon placed in front, the ends
brought simply down thei sides and end
ing in strings. The prominence Of velvet
ribbon is indeed q marked feature and all
the more notable as 1t is the warm season
that is being provided for. Not dark shades
aud bright alone appear but delicate
pinks, pale blues and white of different
tinges, brought forward perhaps with
view to effective contrasting with the
manifold gauzss and grapes which seem
likewise to have monopoly in millinery.
Ten to one. the new bonnets show these
orspes, for the most part made of them,
often pulled over some handsome founda-
tion such as gilt for example, which
bipouis shiOukn. again tHtet grapes are
so richly wrought that that they glow
with Solomon's glory and need no &C.
cessories. Forty-fve dollars per yard OF
extremely narrow width isl the price Of
one Of highest type, "apd when come to
put on edgipg to match and fnishings,
where is my profit f'' asks the milliner
with melancholy air.
These grapes must not, however, be
imagined as always orinkling with the
orthodox cripkle of Grape. They may or
may not,msny showing ribs across, Others
covered with flncy figures and the only
title to the name Grape being the semi.
transparency. Small flowers or of
medium size are used in punches and
sometimes set slightly on one side with
festhery pompon. But gaily decorated
crspe scarcely needs the addition of
flower, so we more constantly observe
wheat ears or something akin with hover
ing butterflies or dragon flies above. Fran
looking these, but extremely fashionable.
Straws of course cannot be dispensed
with, yet are at present secondary to
these rich little Grape creations and are
larger, some very large as to crown but
not with wide brim. But fashion runs to
bonnets or hats of material chiefly, and 1t
ia customary among those who wear
separate bonnet with each dress, often to
bave bit OF material to match in the
bonnet if not made entirely Of it. So
much is this the case that a military
looking ha; for Young ladies, the Young
Guard may be made of brocaded goods.
Watering place bellies will look like
animated flower gardens, 80 very floral
are many new goods. Attendant beaux
Will watt their sighs over yards of tempt
lngly portrayed raspberries, cherries and
other small fruits to say nothing of holly
sprays, acorns and the like. Blue stock
lngs may choose from q variety Of Qeome-
trio figures, and sometimes the two ideas
are combined,as for example where grapes
are divided into equal parts contrasting
strongly with each other. Yet more peou-
liar are logs or forest branches severed
~ the woodman's axe and having the
heart and inward grainings exposed to
view, while interpreted among all these
varitie5 OF pattern are humming birds,
lridescent beetles or butterflies. All this
on cotton goods such as sateens, lawns
and cam brics.
Tailor made suits of thin bison cloth
are very stylish, but light fisnnels also
tailor made will be in large demand for
morning and travelling. The revival Of
poplins marks new era in dress goods,
but these are not more notable than i'm
perisl cords in which the rep of the fabric
runs parallel with the selvage. These
WAL taEe precedence OF she ottoman rep
RAINING orosswise. Fine armure and
basket goods are again imported and
cashmere and oamel's hair will be sought
alter, not only in dark colors but in deli
cate tints for evening at watering places,
a will ha rftr
swiss or India lawn embroideries. OF great
Importance too are the tribes Of
sheer wool goods, suoh as nuns veil
ing, Kyber cloth and albatross. Plain,
checked, decorated with floral and other
figures, in plsids, stripes, embroidered,
knotted and | know not what, they will
be sold in Immense quantities aud for
almost sll occasions. Then there are the
standard summer silks in narrow stripes
and checks; handsome styles of India
and China silks with oriental figures,
Canton grapes and crepe de ohene. Rle-
CANT dress patterns contain some yards OF
plain wool or silk with complement
wrought in old German cross stitch pat
terms, in Italian Deedlework and South
kensington stitch. Here ia shown forth
an idea applicable to all Glasses of goods.
not excepting cotton, and that is . relief
Of plain stun as contrast to the decorated
or with figures.
White holly, carved or painted, is
made into imitation ivory ornaments for
cloak and dresses set consisting of a
large drSpery pin, buttons of two sizes
for basque sEd coat, and also buckles
besto@e snywhere. Stray locks of hair
are kept In place by the old fashioned
side comb, :" hile above fiuttering hum
mug bird may be seen attached to a hair
pin. Another useful ornament is a tor.
toise shell hair pin set with crystals,
since 1t esn slso be placed at the throat
in hnish 10 neck dressing, or can be
utilized In the hat as permsnence.
series OF pamphlets is issued this spring
by Lord Il Taylor, thus giving fresher
information than is possible in csts-
logue. Each is devoted to some special
department, and in sending, therefore,
give 81 idea concerning what you wish to
know. Old snd musty looking paroh-
mem paper is considered extremely
stylish, but the ragged edged is still in
fsvor. Formal invitations are, however,
engraved OF white paper fitting in
square er velope of moderate eizs.
As "Nadine' i'll the new play of
"Nsdj szds" Modj' ska appears first in
beautiful toilette OF brocade, shaded
from deep orange to pale yellow. Square
neck, train and sleeves OF broosded gauzs
wllh te5p pointed apron front and partial
b1d!ee of tho same. TIE second ia a
white MORE antique, with heart shaped
neck, short sleeves, train and rich orna-
mentation Of white rose ard green leaves.
A pretty contrast is given by basket
she carries which contains several brill
liant bnuQurts. The third ia & blua satin
white train, square neck, elbow sleeves
and tlue hat with vide brim rolled back
on one side. The fourth is a walking
dress OF gray silk with black lace man
telet and black bonnet. RosALlND MAY.
GUaRuIEG ENFIOsIYES