Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-10-04


saves the risk of loss which shadows the shop
ping expeditions of the owners of detached and
costly FUR muffs. A stylish theater dolman is
made OF ottoman satin brocaded with velvet
WIN goid threads in the groundwork OF the
satin and gold silk. outlining in embroidery
stitch the velvet leafv design. The effect is
very hne and less pronounced than might be
Imagined, the gold thread being almost invisible
NEW DRESS TRIMMINGS
Chenille is an important element In the trim
mings OF the season. Both the flat ones for
dresses and the fringes for mantles In the pas
seinenteries it is combined with beading, and
soft and twisted silk cord producing the effect
OF rich embroidery, or with the cords alone for
those who do not like the beaded effects Beads
Ike Chenille maintain an acknowledged place
but are used only in costly designs ard upon
rich fabrics by women of taste. Cheap and COM
mon beaded laces and other trimmings of the
same class used upon ordinary street materials
vulgarZe instead of enriching them The finest
trimmings are now made in this country copied
rom foreign patterns by foreign wOrkmen and
WorkW0men, and often stamped with Il foreign
mark Not the SNOWY embroideries alone but
the richest paSsamenteres and combinations of
gimp with embroidery OF beads and chenille or
gold thread and chenille. The favOrite and most
fashionable patterns are rings and wheels the
lorlner sometimes overlapping each other and
graduated in size, the latter with open and GRO
chetted center and gradually charging radius
OF twisted and satin finished cords upon which
pretty designs in beads and chenille are exc
cuted; There are also slender, leaf like patterns
united together, so as to form q continuous line
or border If necessary, but capable of separa-
ton into different ornaments. which may tie
placed upon the shoulders. at the back, upon
the sides, or front of dresses
Frlnges are reserved for mantles and coaks.
Ihey are not used for dresses at least, not as
generally or as styshly as the fiat passemente-
RES. The newest fringe consists of small pointed
tails OF Chenille. with or without a bead upon
the end OF each strand. They are made in one
or more rows and cost from seventy-ive cents
to 50 per yard. The technical term for the
newest style is 'eech' fringe, because the
strands are shaped like leeches and twist and
squlrm IN a way strongly suggestive of these
snaky little reptiles. The majority of the ex-
penslve flat trimmings are made so that the de-
sign Will form complete ornaments which can
be separated from each other and used in their
detached form upon skirt and bodice. In this
way small quantity by the yard is sufficient to
trim dress. an essential qualification when the
cost ranges from So to SIS for this seemingly
insignificant amount. The beauty and striking
character of the new trimmings adapts them to
distinctive and individual purposes much more
than to the formation OF continuous lines. When
ornamentatiOn is an integral part of the cos
tune the work is done on the matera when
made separate it is more fashionable to put it
on IN applique patterns as something purely
decorative. The walking dress pure and simple
is not now fashiOnaby trimmed at all. 1t is
well cut and neatly made in solid material
richly lined, perhaps. but exterorly it is plain
as q mans coat.
There is a distinct difference however, be-
tween the trimmings of nantes and the dol
man garments used for the half season and
dresses. The leech triEges are almost univer-
sally used tor the dolmans and mantles en- suite
accompanied by detached characterization in pas
sementerie for shoulders. the back and front of
the bO1y-part Df tho ha
ornament, named from its division into two out
spread sides rom the short center is the popu-
lar ornament for the back OF cloaks and suits,
and is composed of the cords and beads or
chenille, or all three, which form the rest of the
trimming. Sometimes these ornaments form
clusters of tongue-shaped leaves. held by long
corded caterpillar in the center Others are
shaped more like enlarged butterflies. Velvet
butterflies. vened with gold. are handsome, but
they are less useful than the ornaments COM
posed of solid braided cord with small hanging
ball attachments which are well made and grace
full
The novelty in buttons is very peculiar 1t
forms at the same time button and hook and
eye at the back. 1t does away with the use Of
buttonholes. The form OF the button has here
tOfOre been limited to the necessity for passing
through the buttOnhole 1t had to be round
or obl0ng, and within certain limits as to size.
The new buttons are not large, but there is
infinite variety in the design. There are butter
flies and hclmeted heads. metal figures and
soldiers, knights on horseback rescuing fair
maids, and girls carrying rolls of music. The
design is purely ornamental The hook-and-
eye at the back performs the work Of fastening.
clasps, too, are used for suits instead Of
buttons-one at the throat; one at the line of
the waist. The work OF fastening further is
aided by Invisible hooks-and-eyes. The clasps
are OF carved wood or brOnZed metal and are
used also for cloaks and jackets or dolmans.