Morning journal and courier., 1884-02-05
Price Two Cents
American standpoint it was atroeious beyond

American standpoint it was atrocious beyond utterance. Each succeeding dish smelled more foul and still more foul, until finally we ordered nothing served, and depended wholly on our own supplies lest nausea as a result of the odors should lead our fellow passengers to suspect that we were "poor sailors" We carried timed meats, condensed milk, sugar, jam, bread and the various con- ailments. At first we were able also to make use of some of the eggs and fish furnished on the boat. Our fellow-travellers ate the dishes which smelled most Rbominable with an apparent relish that was quite inexplicable to us. I suppose taste and smell are very largely matters of cultivation.
 A quarter of & century ago travellers would given anything for the privilege of sailing through this Inland Sea of Japan, privilege which at that time no man thought he should ever enjoy. Now it has been described in poetry and prose until I shrink from the task of saying anything about it myself. Rather than do so will simply quote the comment of one well-known traveller, Bishop Kingsley, who wrote: "I have seen and ad- mired the far-famed Loch Lomond in Scot land but it was meagre compared with the gorgeous beauty of this Inland Sea. If we could put twenty Loch Lomonds together. and for every beautiful mountain on the margin, and every lovely island in the placid waters, plant hundred mountains and hundred islands, we should approximate the wealth of beauty seen in these heathen waters" * eFr'Fe toosz two nighta and one. day y4o traverse the 250 miles of island beauty, and on the second morning, which was Thanksgiving day in America and also with the missionaries in Japan, emerged into the Yellow Sea, and began coasting along the western shore of Kinshin. We stopped at several thriving Japanese ports en route, thus prolonging the voyage so that Nagasaki was not reached till fha fnIfOuin0 nnrOin0 WhjIa still hours out, we sighted 8 remarkable granite arch rising directly out of deep water, and large enough to permit the passage of ocean steamers. Between the two pillars of this natural gateway, huge boulder had become lodged in some inexplicable manner.
 The harbor of Nagasaki is absolutely Iand- locked. The entrance, which is from the south, seems to be entirely closed by the mountains that approach to the waters edge on both sides. Once inside, the traveller has difficulty in convincing himself that this is not beautiful lake, and that all these ocean steamers, men of-war and minor craft have found their way inland in some myste- rious way. Many captains are disposed to regard this as the best of all the Oriental harbors.
 The population of Nagasaki is about 50, 900 souls, including 600 Chinese, 100 British, and 50 Americans. While on this subject of pop- ulations, will give the figures for the other
 
 tsined 205,000 people, of whom 5+7 were Chinese, 235 British, 42 German and 64 American. Osaka has 55O, ,0OO people, of whom 13G are Chinese and fl English or American. In 1879 Yokohama contained 67, 499 people, including 2,245 Chinese, 594 British, 275 American, 19O German, 164 French, 46 Dutch, 36 Portuguese, and 72 Russian. The official census of 1881 gave Tokiyo 1,164, 1S1 inhabitants, including 643 foreigners, of whom 519 were in the govern ment employ. In all these cities there is an excess of male population, which is true of no other country on earth except Japan, I believe. I have been thus particular to look up official censuses because Japanese statistics have been so wild in the past that the popular knowledge on these points is very vague. Fire, pestllence, and earthquakes have de- stroyed not only thousands but hundreds of thousands of lives in Japan
 On the left as entered the harbor we saw the island of Pappenberg, place of pro- found melancholy interest. Here in l637 were twenty thousand Christians massacrea by being driven up the sloping bank and then over the precipice at the summit, only to be dashed in pieces on the cruel rocks below. This was the fate forced upon them because they refused to trample the cress under foot Though they were merely converts to Jesuitism have all respect for these early Japanese Christians, after having looked up- on this desolate island of Pappenberg. The island is quite precipitous on the inlet side and perhaps one hundred feet high, while On the side next to the mainland it is gradual incline. Up this incline the victims were driven, and forced over the cliffs. It is very hard for the traveller of to-day to conceive that this mild, hospitable -genufiectine people could once have been guilty of such atrocities. EMILE.