Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-09-07

ysx rux cool Auruxx DArs.
Caas sss she Issles-raiIsr.msss JseAsss
ass lsss NswmsvAes csas-xslisr ssifs
~ c1csh etc.

aus lsss Newmarket csats-xsllsr suit
~ Clssh, ETC.
Hspu's Berar. In lts current issue,
Hvs: "a taisor.made jacket Of c'osn y
ne wrap prepared for the first cool autumn
da3p. ana will be worn alike by old and
youur ladies. This jacket may be OF the
elolh Of the snit with which Il IL worn, and
3 also appropriate for wearing With va.
sfcus dresses. The English jacket is CON-
wsuded by fashionable tsiIors for this pur.
nose. which has for Its distinguish
( m jesturc doublc-brcasted fronts with
two rows OF buitous and Iotchcd
collar that laps toward the lei,
ode and shaped precisely Ike the
collar Of . mans Prince Albert frock-
coat. There Il scam down the middle Of
the front by which the double front Is
added; dart Is In each front, and the coat
mas he cut away from the waist line or
Laug straight below: the back has one side
form each SIDE, With some fstly-pressed
pleais In the middle seams; the garment
falls low on the hips, and Is OF even length
all around. The pockets are Sits In the
SIDE. aud may be diagonal, curved, or
straight. When made as separate
Jacket 10 wear with any dress. rough
cloths arc used. such as the Mon
fine that |. seems OF sllken texture;
tlsse rough clothes are as warm as fur. aud
need cnly Inning OF silk or satin, and are
worn entirely without trimming. Snch
coats are handsome in the new red-brown
shades called Egyptian brown. dark Eng
lish blue. plum. stone gray, and dahlia
coicrs. when made as part OF suit, the
material Il plan brcadcloth or the new
mixed colors i smooth broadclOth that will
he worn this winter. In which some dark
golden brown or red threads appear, or
else the fine diagonal cloths, and those
woven IN corkscrew patterns. with other
rough English cloths used for travelling
suits.
IaPoETED FRENCH JACKETS.
"The French jackets differ from those
lust described In being only partly 0ttcd
10 the figure, IN What L. called threc-qulr-
ter fitted garments. The fronts hang loose
and straight without daris), aud are double
breasted; The back Is fitted 10 the form
closely by three seams ana side pieces. aud
Il held in plscc by belt undernea.h h.
French mo fiSteS use fancy cloths for these
extra jackets. and finish them with a velyei
collar in the Prince Albeit coat shape, vel
vet cuffs. and pocket flaps OF velvet, adding
for ornament, II desired. three or four rows
al the garment. These come IN pigeon
gray rough cloth. In Gordon hlue, maroon.
brown. ETC., and are very easy and iauniy-
looking.
LONG NEWMARKET COATs.
1.-The long Newmarket costs viii be used
again for walking. travelling. etc and src
liked because they so readily transform
house toilette into a street suit, rs they are
l.. 80. al o..
them. Rorgh cloths are liked for these. in
brown. pigeon gray, blue. or maroon. aud
II j. noticeable that few black cloth wraps
are shown, except for those wearing
mourning; tufted, frise, and damask
cloths. the latter In Egyptian figures. arc
used for these garments, with also
some checked and striped cloths. hut
those Of a plain cloth of some stylish
color are less striking. and therefore prefer
able. The shape may he single-hr,aste1
and severely plain, with an officers stand.
ing-collar Of velvet, or IL may have the
effect Of a boX.pleat down each side Of the
front by fold being stitched there The en-
tire iCngih al the coat, or else il may be
doublo-breasted as far rs the waist. aud
open plain dOwn the SKIRT. Al these ear
meDis are made much fuller in the skirt
with the view OF wearing them over fuller
purpose there are additional pleais I'm the
three seams Of the back; the middle seam
Is now usually closed unless it is TO be
trimmed its whole length with braid or
fur.
"Other long cloaks are made with loose
fronts. and tightly fitted back In the way so |
popular last winter. Some OF these are Gus |
Of. on the tOurnure, and the fulncss l. add |
ed in six or eight organ pleats. which are
round, and are stuffed 10 give full tour.
nure. Velvet and large metal buttons are
The trimmings for these garments, while
braids OF various kinds, especially the
ITirged.out narrow braids, aud the |
wide Hercules braids that form
border, are used for trimming the |
shorter jackets. JERSEY webbing re-
mains fayorite cloth on account !
of Its elasticity, and is used for both |
short and long coats. The brnlding that !
promises TO be most used is easily done at !
home. and consists 81 border made with |
points above and fringe below by placing |
lengtbwise adjacent rows OF narrow molnir !
braid on lis edges. not Hat. A three-inch /
border Of this kind. with a fourth.inch |
added by raypjling out the fringe on the 1
lower side, Is stylish and supple trimming
Tor cloth jackets, Jerseys. and for the
basques 81 cloth or other heavy wool dresses.
The standing collar aud cuffs are similarly |
and there may be a vest simulated |
also.
SHORT DREsSY sANrIEs.
"ShoTt mantlcs Of braided cloth will be
worn for early autumn. and velvet nantes
trimmed with fur will be the dressy wrap
or winter. These are regular mautllas,
reaching Just telow the waist in the back,
appipg in n short square like sleeve on
he sides, cut high on the shoulders, though
not very full. and with long, slender, square
nantilla fronts. There are two middle
'orms behind, fitting the figure, and
held close TO the waist 10y ribbon belt
which il attached TO the three
back SEAMS, and then tied In front, leaving
the sides and fronts quite free. These
come IN smooth broadcloth in the light
nsnkeen md mushroom shades, in pigeon
gray, golden brown. rather bright red,
and In the dark Egyptian or red-brown
colorS. snd are sometimes nearly covered
with braiding in odd striped designs,
while others have merely border OF braid
In many close rows, or in "A sort Of chain
pattern In upright rows, Tayeled in q
hinge on the edges.
"For lister In the winter velvet NANTES
In these shapes will be made either OF The
hire ,elyets. with curled figures on an OF
Ioman velvet ground, or on velvet OF long
pile; or else the velvet will be brocaded in
'ardinlere designs OF gay colors on black
or other dark ground; or, last Of all. plain
velvet viii be used In various WAYS. either
alone or covered with lace, or striped with
figured velvet, or else heavily
wrought with large beads. The uncut
velveis VIII also be used for nantes,
and there will he again many garments
that combine two kinds OF velvet, or
two other fabrics. such ~ plain or uncut
velvet for the middle Of the front and back,
and ffise velvet on the sides, or else some
quaint India figured wool, or Chinese EN-.
broicered cloth. or Grape. viii form the arm
pieces. A border Of dark fur, with fur tail
fringe below. will be the choicest trimming
for rich velvet mantlcs: beaver, bear, lynx.
and Alaska sable furs are used In
these imported nantes. The fancy for
plush Innings has passed by. and
instead are quilted satin Innings OF
gay poppy red, tera-cotta pale gray,
or dark orange color; the most ex-
trayagant Of these are stuffed with down,
but cotton wadding Is more generally used. |
and the quilting II very lightly done in /
parallel rows an inch or more apart, a this /
makes = moro flexible lining than when |
closely quilted In squares or diamonds,
some OF the fur borders with fringe are |
twelve inches deep across the back and |
sides, while only the tail fringe is added |
across the square ends OF the long msntilll l
front. The eollsr Is a high-standing band 4
NJ fur N h.t, f,,x 4. a, ~ a. a Al 49,.