New-York tribune., 1884-12-28
ROLLED GOLD jEWELRY
iiih TERM 4 ti0iiON 0i htAthhH
MERCHANTS fNfhs ARDpi utNs ARD fhAihb
ORNAMENTS,
mh0ied gold ewehy,n said a Maiden Lane


the Trade in paoh gpOds begn To- attract hnlNp ' 'hn
pnrrosu at giving tue puhio the Impression 'h"' W"
goods o they sold solid gold, hut that Wy Reason
oi s hohg rallied the oost of manufacture was greatly
oheapened. This idea caught the public ianeS
aud the trade assumed enormous pro
portions. As the demand for this kind of
Jowory Increased the demand for solid gold decreased
and AZ present there are only few OF the old estanlsoa
houses which dea exclusively In the pure metal ana
am always startled when customer asks for solid so
! and have vision, Of princes in disguise.
Properly speaking all gold used by jewelers. Is rolled
into plates drawn into wire before IT is shaped into
any particular style Of cwury and that which is nnde-
stood by the public generally rOcig0d Is known To
the trade - rolled Plate. Jewellers know nothing OF
rolled gold though they profit largely from the current
belief in the article and do take pains unless their
| opinion IL asked to undeccivc thorpatrons
''There two kinds OF gold plate rolled and electro
! In rolled plate composition OF brass and copper or
other metals is used basi and Is male into strips
about twelve Inches long three inches wide ami from
quarter to half inch thick. Upon this base band Of
gold, from to fourteen caras fine, of the same length
and width but only ono-tenth and frequently onciwcn
toth thick is either soderel swcaed The latter
process Is usually employed aud in BRIEF Is where the
base metal ana the gold band fused together at
high temperature double plate is ma e by putting
gold band upon each side Of the composition metal,
and Is used In the finer grades of jewelry.
After the gold and base metal are
united into plate bar II is pnt through gra1u'
ated roller until the thickness desired obtained IL Is
sometimes rolled thin that t will ioat I'm the air
The point of union between the gold and composition
De only with microscope though their relative
thickness is always the same. This plate Is also dra"
| into wire OF different sizes and shapes"
"How is jewcry made from plate !"
"Tho process is simple Steel dies and heavy press
to form the plato into the proper shape, solder To unite
| the joints and pieces and a few tools to bnrnish
| and cmbellish the goods Is about all
IL. a.. I'm "A. rlgaI,
Finger rings are the standby Of tho plated goods
| trade There are two kinds which approach Ia valuo
solid gold, being the scalo rng which has Nat top,
either pain or Omamonied hnda RAG WIN Genuine
stone Htlng These are known Ia tho trade IA the nara
solder nlod rings The outside or ring where there IN
the greatest wear. 1, the thckes plate ana h hfat
stanpod into shape, This IN hllod with silver solder,
| which Ia melted with u blowpipe, Tho rlnR Is then
placed on m nrbor, which makes II perfectly round aud
| Of the rlc desired roamor iH then rn through IT,
which anoohca tho lnnor edge nll odnpts u FOR tho
| inner lining, which is usually mndn OF
thin plnlc The fancy work Ia put on
the ne ringa by hand and on the cheap ones by stamp,
or rollers. Machine augmentation is ~ No perfected
m"w on m@ n . d"ad ns @ u, @ In solid rmqs except da
monda aud principally pearls gnlirS, hmr,nNsta
are humbngsrd by the blood and gold stone. No such
stones found In nature, and these are simply chrm
and are worth from ~ to Sl- per dozen Ihe greatest
demand Is for those between - and S|O per dozen me
CnVnp tVc" ,h nr tn",sye bn are nlied with lead and
With Imitation stones made OF glass, and are worth
i'" :" lS yoV know how 10 test nm amethyst Nol We'll,
horn e. an Imitation and a genuine amethyst. just put
bru, nm nv rnir tongue meraciy and YOU will find that
the spurious feels warm anu thc genuine icy 12 .1 W. W.
,o. rn OF nte is the gcre,e, which has peculiar
imii ire What IS III Well, don't want TO destroy pub.
rr'd sm"othe,l nnd polished New sJesi ~, our
dmncrs claim to ho,e thrm every spt'ng nna ia ,a nn
| There is ne much difference mlvt'n mem "a ti thcie
il htrn two lravrs ~ the snmr tree There gre ohly
nccn iagtgte' " this gonni W., d,n nnWt aspS"" VI
.Ihr ii-dr ln SLATED bracelets l9 tnpinou' 'he az
Try st G ~, Ss , s iN sss ssss' SoG % ~ . S aoGs Si
Tnin innn ~ pathis hnp "a nsp ~ ihrit mnnniet
,n. ti NJ, ,U,' rn hy haNi ihet etp wth iiem
selp ,sht gen' f. ~ & tet @ M},e .,s NV El&s H",s
wi,h iA,n uiVn thp niii u'ies9Nnpl s'i ts thr si'
DsthtHani nplnt ln hlip'h ihAt hH9 !ptN ~ wv n''
iur thU i,st twpHt- iNb laais. lhu nhiWNpst mappt
10 . VI ap ihh Tao Nhlps - lhrhpa ltl nip iiHHu
mU N,e si1os, adAtiud ln tl Hs hnn 11u ~ lNi,s
~ m sess e egelFy ae'aas iaea ilN a 90. H.,
, sloul uhm nhoui 600 Styles oi watch chains Wheh
'sWntch cases Weh, hte is a sample case which rop
| rcsonts about 2jo desgus, lhal VIA pul 10 pWHh
o ,no o.,t, ".'t so'I' u.s. m1ch They are ali ned
| viu a necnar compo.ition, which sions aud makes
hird aud the inside about one-enth as thick as the
composition the dicr nee being ml' p,canse lne ""aT
Il. cr.cr on tho outside. The JOINTS thuhp piece, huu
trimming are solid gold and are interchangeable iey
hon old case OF tie same size and sold from T2
~ ~ 9ach-abont the value Of cght-cara gold case
hcir are some gold cases which sell for less than rolled
Mate on, being an imported case when Is Ohly Ioni
| crrats fine and sells TO the trade Tor, about @ilV
There are also brass cases eiectrolaieu WIN Ev.u
tbIt are worth - apiece, and when lifted up WIN
chcap movement these are knownas the aucuhoeIb ue
| Nphti" They are sometimes sold in the auction rooms
for s25. but worth nothing III iclt III room VIII
| coal fre, the cases will turn nearly black. {,
some rollod-pate goods made so line that IL Is
dnicnlt for even experts 10 pick them ont but usually
the JOINTS they are LETT rough because TGdc gr nr
smooth the composition would bo exposed. lheIc are
many factories where base imitation OF rolled pate Is
tbem witho the aid of file, rs they are frequently
hrtrr than the genuine, but, OF course theS 40 nol
stand any AT all Purchasers cannon te 'ne uncr r.
oucc from appcarancc alone and, II they 90 hOt want 10
be cheated should always buy from IesPonsDIe nosc
PLATED goods are all made IN inc ls'SI 1I
though the market for them is in the West Inc piaeo
goods generally sold IN large cities are im'elc % IN IN %
soa and villages, f' inc Ieason tI't III, ~ 'd T d
narc II counryman cheated, he comes pack ana ue-
ands his money, while in the CITY iau saPs are
claims sold and that ends H. Ihesc soous nI niJ
asa exported every country nnder the sun, anu
the cheaper grades form the pas!S M o,o%i,
between the .ueless white man and the
| ,"c In many faron lands. Plated lewery Is made
cheaper in Europe on account OF 10" plI,ccu p, a
tiis cnnntry hui we compete with foreign mahuacul
@ I'm thcr own markets because OF the novelties we are
constantly producing. They stick To he patterns VI ts
| centlres ALWAYS getting up solhelilihs hc"
Ing =, nm the sizes Of finger rings and bracelets cA-
nnrcl tho women Of Sonth America southern EuIolc
aud cuba have the smallest fingers ana arms.
| Sweden Russia Scotland. England ana tanada come
n"t IN size and Germany have the largest OF a except
| Affca whose duSky children VIII ohly 'co'P'J J'"o"'
tba is made 10 nc any part OF tlcr poules' ,., d,
v,nV fashionable women also purchase plated GOODS
20 crnr m some special reception party or eneralh-
TO bcy aIwaVs choose the latest design, and after
wearing once often give them away TO their t t
poor relatives have sold as many m % ;s t hos name
| Sreonrny appears as "A leader In social f.. Ivite7
How long win the cweiy last , Wen, s1Sc Sc Pase
metal is visible. watch cases however arr an
ton. being warranted by the n"hul"c'"''' TUT "'N''
| years. 49,
| tyyyOTS TO MANAGE THE Park GARDhN.