Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1884-10-25
FASHION NEWS AND NOTES.
Written for TIC Herald b. "Leone.'
HINTS ON HOME DRESS MAKING.

i
HINTS ON HOME DRESS MAKING.
| Some valuable hints are given by
Madame Demorrst with regard to
the cutting and fitting of dresses by
the inexperienced home dress maker.
She says that when a person has a
very full bust and slender waist the
fit may be much improved by turn
ing the front seams in deeper at the
waist line and above the bust.
This should be done when the gar
ment is beng tried on. If there is a
seam down the middle of the back
oil the waist of a polenaise and it is
desirable to avoid one down the mid
die of the skirt. 1t can be done by
laying the edge of the pattern for the
back part OF the skirt to a fold of the
goods. The same rule applies to a
basque that has pleatcd back widths
attached.
A seam in the middle of the back
in the waist of any garment is a
great improvement, giving rounder
effect to the figure. When q person
is very hollow in the back the fit of
garment may frequently be improv.
ed by taking this seam in q little
closer at the waist line.
All basques, polenaises and prin-
cesse dresses are now cut with side
forms under the arms, as the cross
seams at the waist line for giving
the necessary spring over the hips is
thus avoided and longer effect is
given to the waist.
Corsages are cut rather high in
neck, and nearly all are finished with
band or standing collar Of either
the suit fabric or tho material used
for trimming.
The back Of fashionable corsage
is cut the width of the form, and the
front is not contracted, the full bust
being the style, no contraction or
Brightness" being allowed any
where, not even in the lower portion
of the waist, which is curved to fit
but not to confine the form.
The postillion basques made by
English tailors have the unadee
forms of the back only one inch and
fourth wide at the waist line and
"a wide side form Oh each side. In
some OF these each seam Is plain and
sewed to the end, forming a pointed
cuirass back. Others have two lay
ers of pleats meeting two others in
the middle seam, then the side forms
are cut short. Sometimes the side
forms extend in three cornered shape
across a pleatiDg that is sewcd to
the middle forms at the waist line.
Two rows of stitching are along the
edges of cloth basques, not for orna-
ment, but merely to hold the cloth
fatty, aud bias facing is afterward
added to finish the inside neatly.
LOCAL DOTS.
Velvet and satin and velvet and
silk combinations begin to appear
on the street. One that was extreme
ly pretty was a velvet skirt with
front trimmed with deep lace floun.
ces, and full back draper of velvet
and velvet basque.
The shop windows resemble o
florists display III colors, and are
piled mp with embossed and brocade
velvets and velveteens. satins and
silks in all the new rich shades.
/ inquired six months ago for Jer.
seq cloth but couldn't find it in town.
1t is on display now and will be a
prominent feature in winter wear
It is pretty, cheap and durable.
inexpensive plaids and blue calico
that always look nice when tasteful.
y made, are being worn as school
dresses.
RED IN MILLINERY.
The new shades Of this color are
rich and varied, and burst forth
gloriously in velvet and brocade. or
glimmer thro' bronze, mahogany and
tan until the color dying out in the
material itself, breaks out again In
cordings, facings, ribbon garnitures,
Pomme D'amour, love apple, or to.
matoe, Aurora, a clear vivid sunset
red, shading to deep wine, rouge
gorge, robin red breast color. and
red vulcan. Sultane infernaIe and
coquilicot, are the leading Partisan
shades OF this color, with endless
cross siDts which appear in all the
seasons high dyed productions.
MANS FANCY.
A New York fashion letter SAYS
some OF the aesthetic metrpolitans
wear bangles on their wrists-not O.
the kind that denote captivity, tho
heard Marfinsburg gentleman
boast that he wore a bang next to
his heart. ! wonder il he is the on
~ candidate in town for lunatic
asylum.