The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1884-09-12
Various Mourning Dresses.

severe ELECTS gwen Dy SlT2iSnt llncS
and long folds are used for mourning
dresses, instead of the curved bouffant
drapcries in vogue for colored costumes.
Flounces laid in narrow plaitS have
given place to smooth bias folds, or else
tucks done in the skirt. Lroad fiat
panels are arranged on side breadths.
or three very wide box plaits that look
like panels trim the front and sides, and
there are narrower kilt plaits in the
tack These lengihwise plalts and
panels arc liked for short women. while
those who are tall use croSswise folds
or tucks. Sometimes the fold, or tncks
are only at the foot of the skirt and up
the whole of the left side, which is dis
closed by an opening of the long
over-skirt. The TO Dis. whether of dress
goods or of Engl sh Grape. must be cut
exactly bias, and are from three to four
inches wide. those of Grape are usually
double, and have the upper edge turned
in at the top: those of woollen stuffS
are single, but are lined with crinoline
lawn to stiifen them slightly; they are
sewed in TO lap over the seam that
holds the. fo.d next below it in rlace.
Wider folds, that require but five or
seven to cover the dress skirt, are very
difficult to arrange neatly, and should
not be attempted by the amateur dress
maker. VI ide tGcks from an inch and
half to three inches broad are
easier TO make, and are lutte cffec-
tive, especially for simple woolens, such
as Cheviot, tamise cloth, or flannel, and
are also liked for nice yelling dresses.
An appropriate skirt of this kind has
two wide double box pleats made of q
width and half of the material, FORM
inc the entire la k of the dress: these
back pleats look well when tucked in
four or five rows across the foot. When
two ngle widths are arranged in high
back drapery they may also have tue ks
for finish. In the front breadths are
more tucks. falling in narrow pleat.
Ing 81 the foot, and there is a side
Iolnted apron for draperv. When
Grape trimmings are used. folds of
Grape made tapping are placed across
the front breadths of the skirt, or else
three or five lengthwise plea,s of Grape
trim it from belt to foot in front and on
the sides. The skirt in vide kilt pleats,
SO much liked by young women, may
first have TWO or three bias bands of
Grape laid upon it before pleating.
Square plastrons or vests are made of
the Grape placed smooth and straight,
or else gathered full in Fedora style.
while that for the collar and cuffs i,
usually double fold, which must he
perfectly bias or it will not he smooth.
Some new e iects are given by folds OF
grenad.ne or of Henrietta cloth
lined with Grape, and the Grape
lining turned upward half its
depth on one side of the skirt
front. and the material of the dress on
the other half showing only Il piping Of
the Grape The eeveS of mournin.
dresses are closely fitted. covering the
arm smoothly TO the wrist, and being
plainly finished there, only following
cur ent modes in being more O., less
b Oh and full at the 4 mholes. The
neck OF such dresses is cut very high,
and has a broad collar standing close
against the throat. mali, round. fat
button-m dds covered wth the dress
goods or with Grape fasten the waist.
and are not used otherwise.
simple styles and a tire fit are the
distinguishing features OF hrst mo m
i'm dresses. and to obtain these the
tailor fashions now in vogue are
adopted, especially for Cheviots, tamise,
and flannel dresses. a few dresses
well made and of good material are
preferred to greater variety when
weariEg mourning. and women. of ex-
perience say three dresses good. bet
ter and beSt-wiII furnish SouuafhinO
suitable for most occasions, and are 81
that are needed when mourning Is Hrst
put on. As we have said. lighter and
more comfortable mourning dressos are
now used, and the tendenst y tewsrd
wearing it a much shorter time than
was formerly done; eaoh feni]y. how
ever, has its own customs Shout these
matters; and there are no ruloe that APP
ply to all. -HGrpeyt 1e<er.