The Monitor. [volume] (Woodstown, N.J.) 1884-1892, 1884-05-09
Back to LIVERPOOL.

At day-dawn our dirty Irish steamer ap-
proaches Liverpool. 1t is six o'clock as we
90 on deck The heavens are without a
cloud and the mild breeze which hardly ruffles
the cleaning surface of the sunlit sea is as
soft and fragrant as maiden's breath; that
is to say, you know, the morning is superbly
beautiful The river is crowded with all
kinds of water vehicles. Yonder great
Atlantic steamer is just coming in from
America. 1t makes us homesick to look at
her. Here is splendid full-rigged ship, an
East Indian merchantmen just getting under
way. Everythingis full of life. Long, swift
little steamers rush back and forth on every
side. Here in Europe everything in the
steamboat line has paddle wheels. All are
built of iron Thus far we have not seen a
single propeller tug" The screw does not
seem to be used in small boats here as COM
monty as in the United States But these
little English steamers are both swift and
powerful. Their low hulls, with clouds of
thick, black smoke pouring from their short
tunnels remind one anew of those bygone
DAYS of our blockade of 1866. On nearing
Liverpool the shores on either side of the
river slope gently down to the waters edge
with asmooth, white, sandy beach. Brighton
here, on the southern bank of the Mersey, is
a charming watering place In some re-
Sp6cLS IL resembles AtldullC Olty WlluOuJ lto
numerous hotels and glorious sea.
Waterloo, beautiful summer resort on the
north bank of the stream, is made up of
splendid private residences. Seen from where
we stand on the steamer deck it looks a little
like Elberon, where Garfield died. From
Liverpool we take fast express for Rowsley
in order to visit those two justly celebrated
English homes, Chatsworth and Haddon Hall.
The country through which we pass is as
beautiful as a summer dream. Here and
there men and women are seen gathering the
new mown hay which exhales delicious
fragrance into the yellow atmosphere. On
every side there are green fields and winding
streams and shady groves. Cattle seem to
be more numerous and of better stock here
than in Scotland or the Emerald Isle. The
country is thickly settled Not an inch of
ground is allowed to remain unused Every
thing is indicative of thrift. Farm houses
have an exceedingly well-to-do look. This is
indeed a smiling land, one of earth's most
glorious garden spots. At Hillersdale we
change cars and presently alight at Rowsley
sleepy little town nesting among the lime
stone hills of Derbyshire. The village stands
about half way between two of Englands most
famous homes, Chatsworth vast palace of
modern magnifcence, and Haddon Hall, I'M
doubtedly the most attractive, as it is certain
ly one of the most interesting of the mansions
of the past. AS we drive out of Rowsley to
this grand old baronial hall, we pass the little
old-fashioned Peacock inn, one of the most
famous hostelries in the world. 1t is quaint
ly interesting edifce, with low ceilings, thick
walls and Queen Elizabeth window panes.
Even "the oldest inhabitant " is unable to
tell when it was built. On stone over the
front door some one has carved in rude char
acters the name John Stevenson, divided
into two lines where the hyphen is placed
and the date half on each side of the name,
1852 But this quaint structure was un-
doubtedly built long before that date, for it
has been used as an inn for more than two
centuries and before that time it was the
manor house to Haddon Hall for many years
The country through which we now drive out
to this old baronial home is wonderfully beau
tiful. An English nobleman has feelngly de-
scribed it in the following lines:
Sup barley Dale the wanton wind
In careless measure sweeps,
And stirs the twinkling Derwent tides,
Its shadows and its deeps.