Northwest enterprise. [volume] (Anacortes, Wash. Ter.) 1882-1887, 1884-02-16
NO. 49,.
KINGS OF THE KITCHEN.
The Artistic Dignity and Importance
OF Master rCOOks---Salar1es and Per-
Quisites Enjoyed by Chefs.

The Artistic Dignity and Importance
OF Master COOks-- salaries and Per-
Quisites Enjoyed by Chefs.
Philadelphia Press Interview.l
"Do cooks, or, perhaps it would be
better to say chief cooks, receive large
salaries?"
'"They receive very excellent salaries.
Larger than many head bank clerks or
chief statesmen in dry goods houses.
The stomach appeals as forcibly as the
brain. The Hoffman house, in New
York, pays its chief $4,000 a year.
Delmonico and the Bellevue of this
city annually $4,000. That, however,
is only the money portion. A chief re-
ceives his board, lodging and wine i'll
addition-all of the best description.
The Bellevue cook is also provided with
his clothes, made by first-class tailor.
The salaries paid by other hotels in the
country vary from $4,000 to $4,000.
No chief of ability would take any less
than the last named sum, and only then
under pressure. Assistant cooks, often
apprentices of the chief, receive
salaries varying from $12J to $65 per
month, with board"
"Of what nationality are cooks?"
NEARLY all of them are French.
There are o few English, one or two
German and American, but the land of
Gaul is the home of culinary artists.
The French cooks are close brother
hood. They hand down the secrets of
their profession one to the other. They
graduate under the tuition of the older
members of the fraternity, to whom
they refer with the same reverence that
a young painter pays to his master.
The cooking OF certain dishes, the in
gradients of particular sauces, the flavor
ing of special soups, are only revealed
to Junior members of the profession un-
der promises of strictest confidence, and
also only when it has been decided that
the novices desiring initiation will be
able to do proper justice to the making
of the chef d. euvre"
I'm the Kitchen" continued the hotel
proprietor, "the chef is supreme. In
deed, all over the house the chef is
treated with the respect due to gen.
tleman. He has his distinct table and
servants to wait upon him. He gener
ally invites his chief assistant to dine
with him. Nothing menial it is UNDER
stood, is attached to his office, and
walters abstain from familiarity with
him. Cocktails are served to him when
he arises; claret with his lunch and
any wines he desires at his meals.
Cooks have seldom been known to be-
come drunkards, or even gluttons.
They have far too fine a perception of
taste and flavor to abuse either. 1
have known chef to invite brother
artist to dinner, and the pair have
dwelt over certain dishes with the same
lingering scrutiny and affection that
sculptor bestows on his finest produc-
tion. Soyer, the greatest living cook of
the last century, at times wept bitterly
because the dishes he occasionally
served to crowned heads were not prop
erly appreciated by their royal consum-
ers. Roman emperors covered their
cooks with honors, and monarchs of
the middle ages frequently knighted
the kings of their kitchens. Indeed, in
the present day, the art of cooking is
not despised by the finest gentlemen.
Our Fish House club in this city is an
instance. The clubs in this country
and in Europe could produce several
rivals even to noted chefs"
And chefs in private housesw
"Are not quite in as good q position
as chefs in clubs and hotels. They Of
ten have more to do, and less assistance.
Their salaries are generally of the
highest average, but the men them
selves are seldom artists of the first ex-
cellence. Vanderbilt, Havemeyer and
other millionares of New York employ
men of Gordon bleu rank, but outside
New York there are few private FAM
lilies in America who rise to the dignity
of man cook. Mr.. Drexel is the only
man in this city who employs one"
But Philadelphians have cooks?"
"Yes, women, who receive wages,
say, from 81 to $8 week; and very
good cooks many of the women are.
But there is always something lacking.
A picture by q novice may be very
pleasing; by genius it may be wonder
full in conception and execution-but
few touches in each instance from the
brush of the maestro and what diff
| ference!"