Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-05-24
Of The EVENING STAR
u. B. FLAGSHIP LANCASTER,
JoPPA, PALESTINE. April Q. 1884.

JoPPA, PALESTINE, Aprll y. 1851
Five Of US started for Jerusalem on Friday
morning, and, as in all travelling in the east
there Is an Arab guide, or dragoman, who has
general charge Of the party, we had one, named
Mustapha. He did all the talking and bargain
ing; in fact. We could not have done without
him. We had a vehicle, called by courtesy a
carriage, but in fact farm wagon, with poor
springs and three seats. Starting at 10 o'clock.
four of US sat in the wagon with the guide and
driver. and one rode horse We all took turns
riding the latter that being a very agreeable
change from the jOlting of the wagon. which
was drawn by three horses. During the first
three hours the road was pretty good. but then
1t began to get very muddy and rocky.
About SIX o'clock we first began to climb
THE MOUNTAINS OF JUDEA
and it was up hill all the remainder of the way.
with the exception of few stretches of level
road; and such roads you never saw. They
were nothing but rocks and ruts, and we were
joed until each separate bone felt as if it would
part from all the others. This lasted five long
weary hours, and then the horses began giving
out. SO we walked several miles. and then rode
awhile. That mode lasted until the horses
could pull us no longer, then We started to climb
the steepest and last mountain of oil. We
climbed the hill and tramped along the road,
tired and well nigh worn out, when the still
i
soon a chorus of them was heard, and we knew
we were very near the end.
THE HOLY CITY.
l cannot say how glad we were. Presently
we passed the first house, and then were in the
midst OF the suburbs. Then the walls and domes
and minarets of the city became distinct, and
we were soon at the Damascus gate. A sleepy
soldier opened it. and we shortly reached our
hotel, and our tircsOme. tedious, siXteen-hOurs
Journey was over. While 1t was daylight the
way did not seem so long; the hillsdes, valleys
and roadside We're covered with flowers of all
sizes, cOOrs and shapes. and the air was laden
with their fragrance. The cOlors were SO be..,i-
tifully intermingled that 1t seemed the way was
through an immense flower garden. The noun
tans were nothing but stones upon stones. In
some places they have been cleared away. and
Here and there on the top of some are the ruins
OF Old castles built by the crusaders and Sara
Gems, but now crumbling away.
wOMENs RIGHTS IN PALESTINE.
All the women we passed had their faces Gov
cred, and seemingly were doing all the work,
except plOughing the fields. Even little girls
carry great bundles of wood. or heavy baskets
on their heads; the men and boys do little or
nothing.
Our rooms at the hotel were on the roof. and
afforded beautiful view the Mount of Olives
being just In front, dotted here and there with
houses; the Garden of Gethsemane nearits base.
To the right and far away were the Mountains
OF Moab; while the Mosque of Omar is very near
by, and all around are the minarets and fiat
topped houses looking just as they have done in
Joppa and Cairo. and it was very hard tc rca-
was very little boy.
The first place visited was the
CHURCH-OF THE HOLY sEPULCHERE.
In front Of the church is large open court,
where there are many booths. at which are sold
rosares and small crosses of all kinds. The pill
grlms buy them, and they are blessed in the dit
ferent holy places.
On entering the church colored marble slab
is seen, above which many beautiful ever-burn-
ing lamps are hung. This slab is said to be the
one on which Jesus was laid before being buried.
Turning to the left you enter beautiful rO-
tunda in the center of which is a large marble
enclosure surrounded by lamps, candles, pic
lures and beautiful decorations OF various kinds.
Entering door you are in small dmy lighted
room, and from thence you pass through hole
so small that one must crawl through on hands
and knees. thus entering still smaller room
lighted very brilliantly. On the right is marble
slab, worn smooth and glossy by the kisses of
the pilgrims, it being supposed to cover
THE TOMB OF JESUS
priest is there. and sprinkles every one with
water, and then they crawl out backwards.
There were great crowds of people there, and
the small rooms were so packed and crowded
that it was almost impossible to breathe. In
the church near by is
MOUNT CALVARY,
and here is shown the hole where the cross
stood, and the rift in the rocks which opened
during the crucifxion. Near by is the hole
where the cross was found by the Empress He
lena.
(fin tDfxh al,,,
the
OLD MONASTERY OF THE KNIGHTS TEMpLAR.
1t was larger in area than the Patent Office now
is, and the ruins Of chapel cells refectory, sta
bles, &C.. are well marked. Under the whole
building is an immense cellar thirty feet deep.
with an arched roof. In the olden times 1t was
filed with water enough TO last several years in
case OF SIEGE and, you know, there were
plenty of them In those days.
The monastery fronts on the Via DOlorosa, or
sorrowfnl way.that being the street along which
Jesus was led on his way to Calvary. Walking
along 1t and leaving the city by Stephens gate,
we come to the place where ST. Stephen was
stoned. 1t is a bald, bare rock on the side of
the hill. which is still well covered with loose
ROCKS and stones Keeping on down the hill we
are in the Valley Of Jehosaphat, and crossing
the brook kedron, passing some churches, we
are at the
GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE.
1t is enclosed by high wall and is entered
by gate so small that one must stoOp to enter
it. Inside are half dozen old olive trees that
are at least a thousand years old. The garden
is smaller than one would suppose, but is laid
out very neatly, and many beautiful flowers
grow there. bare spot is shown where it is
said Judas stood when he betrayed Jesus to the
multitude with kiss. The garden is at the foot
of the
MOUNT OF OLIVES.
which is very steep and high. AS seen from the
hotel, it seemed not to deserve the title of
mountain; but the valley between is very deep.
and the donkeys we found to be a very welcome
help. There are few houses on the side ofthe
mountain. and the road is nothing but a bride
path. At the top is little Arab village and
from the top of minaret, there is view en-
bracng portion of the world whose history is
better known and is of more interest than any
Other.-a land that l have heard of ever since
my earliest recollection The whole story of the
Bible seemed to pass before me. Of to the right is
THE DEAD SEA.
where the wicked cities of SOdom and GOmor-
rah once stood, and beyond the mountains of
Moab, where Lot fed to escape destruction
with them, and from which Moses saw the
promised land flowing with milk and honey,
though he could not enter it. There, too, is
THE JORDAN,
which opened its waters that Joshua might