The Abilene reflector. [volume] (Abilene, Kan.) 1883-1888, 1884-05-22
Fashions for the Season.

it is occasionally announced that jet is
to be very much used this season. Was
there ever a season in which it was not
ased? And now that jetted lace and
jetted trimmings are made by ma
chinery, and can be beaght for a song,
it will flourish more than ever upon
cheap grenadines and serviceable black
mantles. There are specimens of jet.
ted trimmings that are beautiful. but
they are overpowered by a vast amount
of cheap and shosy beaded embroidery
upon lace, which, nauseous as it is,
sounds as well IN print as If it were the
richest and rarest of its kiad. The en-
tire icttei froRt to a dress can now be
bought for five dollars, and jetted trim
ming lace for fifty cents yard-a great
Temptation b shine at small expense,
Red or gold, lilac or amber satin can
be bought with a linen back for eighty
five cents yard, and when the plain
front and basque are covered with lace
and the hack drapcd, who is to know
that it dad not st five dollars per
yard? But the ietred laces will be still
more peculiarly used for trimming thin
black dresses, grenadines, peRgees,
nuns tailings ard crepe de chine. Jet
ted frilges and 4aces can be employed
in prafusiOn without taxing the strength
of the most delicate tissue, as the beads
are hollow and the weight nothing in
comparison to that used few years
ago.
Crepe de chine is an expensive fabric,
ant for this E;ch ietted 'ornamentation
has special and elective affinity Like
,pengee, it requires lighting up in'Urder
that its STIR myth and beauty may be
,s1en, and fine jetted trimming mot
upon lace but upon the MSterial, cor in
,Ele form df passementerie or fringe
fullillS this Office. The VIRTUE and vice
of Jet is is availability. tits used upon
I'all cheap .mantels, cheap bonnetS, bon
nets that; are stretched upon a blocked
frame, covered first with some high
/ colored satin at fifty cents a yard, and
then with jetted Lace, with border for
the briH and the edge behins. These
can be Thought as lOw as $3.50 each.
Bisctit tints are fashionable this sea-
son, &c they have been more or less
every Spring for many years. They
always appear with the new importa-
tons, because they are used as mark
of distinction and in the making of the
most elegant fabrics abroad, and are
sent here with the natural idea that
they possess the same significance. But
this is not the case;st all. In Paris, and
to s less extent IL London, black is the
badge of labor; It is the uniform of the
business and profesSionafwoman, while
the labOring populations are still more
widely separated from fashion and its
vGarieS, more especially on the Cont
ne1t, by the shert stuff or cotton dress
land the clumsy and time honored access
series of their class. Abroad, therefore,
these fine tints are "a badge of distinc-
ton. HYDE Psc-k anil the Bots de Bou-
ICgne are gay with the most delicate
t5nts, pale blue, SEA shell pink, buff,
ecru and cream white, while the streets
IF the two great cities, English and
| French, are black, morning and even
ing. with the nvriatts of business and
professional workers who form the same
sort of funeral procession from the era
Idle to the grave.
The straw bOnnets =Gre, as yet, quite
secondary to che bonnets made up of
gold embroidered tissues, or real lace
.over satin, and trimmed with aigrettes
lad gold ornaments, or with clusters OF
! fine flowers. Gold l3ace over primrose
satin looks well, and fine real lace over
pink. with aigrette of white marabout-
! powdered with silver. 1t must be I'M
/ .derStood that gold lace IN small designs
/ and of genuine untarnishable quality is
meant. The market lis glutted with
coarse rubbish that IL is an insult to
i the intelligence Of the average woman
I to make for her wearing. A novelty
in straw is hat with e high crown,
and brim rolled upon the edge, which
IS enlarged in 8 ,GircuRsr form upon the
1front. so that upon the slead it assumes
4 the appearance,Sf a bonnet. The favor
Il lite color in these Strars is dull ecru
or light mulberry. Upon the mulberry
lt4int, a darker shade of mulberry would
ltbc used for velvet lfOlds:and facing. and
~ group of mushrooms Unnatural color.
| a dark ecru hat sSf this kind was seen
ell Easter Sunday. trimmed with null
! berry folds and facing and a group OF
62ree mice. aboveGhich a cocks plume
} srept over the crown.
The ReUue de is WOIefor May shows
a model of dress. with plaEed skirt of
striped silk, the plEits wand ked at the
bsttom and trimmed with ,nce which
| f&ss over a plating s0f plain silk. The
drs sped tunic and waist is of ,plain silk.
| the front of the TUNE ErimnIed with lace
intermixed with knots Of satin ribbon.
! Similar knots hold che ,draperies and
| trims the sleeves. A scarf of blG ok lace
cnch olas the throat, R crossed on the
bosom and, passing Hnder. "a strap Of
silk. Is carried on eitiker side 10 the
back, where it mingles with the draper
les of the pouf. 1t is sery graceful and
effective.
Dresses of satin rha&smes, covered
completely with lace tiOanees, draper
les and osrlages, are in She hands OF
dressmakgrs Black Chautilly lace is
used for entire dresses Ia Paris, and
trainless dresses, with Wxtteau Ike
grace, MADE of lace over pale satin
rhadames. rule the day there One of
the most striking novelties in new
fabrics is Chantilly silk; the ground ia
shot in all eshOrS, blue and pink, brown
and gold, green and cardinal, etc. On
tbs brilliant ground is thrown = kind
Of raised embpSidery in a messy. vel
watv appearance like en- application of
lace 1t is decidedly original and
stylish. either in dark colOrs for visiting
costumes or in light shades for evening
totet.
Back gros grafSs are made up with
an oyerdress that has the basque front
sloped to long pepIum pointed sides.
while the back is in princess shape.
Black velvet ribbon fastened in the un-
der arm seam is tied on the front in
| ,1o;p. ond tho oapluna apds hava aaoh