Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-03-22

SuBJECT-sARToRIAL SECRETS CoNFIDED To A
STAR REfoRTER-AN ORGANIZED WAR TO BE
MADE UPON THE BLACK PERSONALITIES EEL
SKIN PANTALOONs To BE SUCCEEDED BY SOME
THING MORE Observation-Disclosures AS To
STYLES. SClTINGS, ETC.
The STAR. believing that the Young men OF
TINS city are unusually neat and careful in the
matter of dress and thinking that the subject
OF their wearing apparel during the coming sea-
son would be of interest. obtained the views of
the president of the Merchant Tailors' Exchange
OF this city, who is well-known connoisseur of
these things
You know" said he. that new things are
always desired, but unless they conform to ca.
tablished laws they are not accepted in gentle
mems dress. 1t is remarkable with what facility
good idea is developed into something that the
great majority want, and surprising how swiftly
change follows change. There have been intro
duced quite number of changes all in the
right direction. and though none of them are
startling they are all of sufficient Importance to
warrant careful study.
The special features that characterize coats
are narrow shoulders. high shoulder seams. mar
row back at the waist. medium width sleeves.
closely draped skirts, light collars and Iappels
snort rolls when buttOned, soft finish and small
buttons" :
DRESS COATS
Although the black monument to by-gone
ages, continued the merchant tailor 1.-THE dress
coat Is still the correct thing alike for gentle
men. walters, and ushers for receptions. ban
quets and weddings. 1t remains so under pro-
Test, and against growing public opinion that
VIII sooner or later sweep it out of existence
1t is expected among the merchant tailors
throughout the country that national ex-
Change will be instituted the coming fall which
Will decide the fate Of the present style of dress
coat, and select style Of cut aid brighter color
Tor Sentlemen's wear, leaving the present style
Tor the use of walters. servants. &c. At present
the dress coat Is being made chiefly of broad
cloth, although quite number are ordered from
corkscreW Worsteds. The edges are made either
plain or corded. The sleeves are finished plain
or corded to Initiate cuffs. The roll Is long and
narrow. reaching to a little below the second
hoie from the waist seam. The silk shows to
the end of collar or edges of holes as desired.
:" mite SIX Innings are being worn extensively by
leaders of society.
DoCBLE-BREASTED FROCKS
are being worn, buttoned lower and shorter in
length than last season. For midsummer a
somewhat shorter frOck will be finished as light
and soft as possible, with lapels turning free
to waist or bottom as desired. These coats are
made in all cOlors. from a quiet gray to blue,
wine and olives, black, of course, being the
most in demand
THE single breasted straight front frock will
close with five buttons. otherwise it will be
the same as the double-breasted
MORNING COATS.
"The one, three. four and five button cuta-
way frocks," said the knight of the shears,
"are each suitable for morning wear or business
purposes. These coats are not cut away SO
much as formerly, nor are the skirts so greatly
rounded. The newest and nobbiest form is
hot f nhn
coat Is some two or three inches shorter than
those that close with three or more buttons,
and has the front cut with q greater round
For the heated term a low roll coat will be
quite popular. This coat will be rather longer
than the one lust mentioned, and not cut away
SO n1nch. Flaps are seldom used on frock
coats. On worsteds and smOOth-faced coats
bindings and braids are used, but rougher suit
ings are generally stitched. When stitched the
sleeves are either flashed with one or three
rows around the hand
SACKS.
For business purposes the most popular
form OF sack will be the five button strai rht
front garment closing high on the chest. with
fronts rounded slightly at bottom. Later in the
season the low roll sack will be much worn.
The roll will extend to the lower button The
front will be well rounded until opposite the
side pockets, aud then cut away with bold
sweep.
The one-button cutaway sack with patch
pockets Will be a favOrite for the warm months
what looser in the back. All other sacks will
trace the form The length has slightly in
creased tWeDty-nine to thirty inches beng the
length for the average height"
OyERCOATS.
''1n overcoats," continued the speaker ''the
will be the leading garment. made
of medium height, thrty-eght inches for aver
age height and will fit the form closely. 1t will
be fly front, and the buttons not more than
three inches back from the edge. Another pop
ular form will be the semi-bOX coat with fiy
front free roll and the upper button to fasten
through and show when the coat is closed
This coat should fit the neck and shoulders
closely, but from the arms down should be full
and ample. 1t should be an inch and half
shorter than the Chesterfield.
For dress purposes the surtout will be consid-
erably worn by those who have plenty of money
and good form. 1t is double breasted. to close
five buttons. They are made of kersey. patent
beaver. or melton. The edges are raw and
double stitched.
VESTS AND PANTALOONS
''Nests are made with OF without collar to
close high, with six or seven buttons. and are
cut square across the bottom. The collar is cut
with IA small notch. Another style is with a
small standing collar and will be popular
''PantaOons are cut larger. The eel-skin type
OF leg dress will give place to a more rational
form. They will be close about the hips. shapely
down the outside of leg, and straight from
crotch to bottom on inside. The bottom will be
small and well followed over the instep The
side seams are made plain.
BINDINGS AND BRAIDS
will be used as much as possible. very neat
style will be medium width binding put on half
and half. Another very popular style will be
flat braiding fulled on both edges in STYLE of
wOOlens we find an excellent display OF mixed
colOred corkscrew diagonals. They are in great
demand and very popular, as they make very
stylish costume and the wearer is certainly well
dressed in a suit vi these goods. They are out
in large variety of colors, shading all the way
from light drab into all shades of tan, brown,
Oxford mixtures and gray, and some very ele-
giant mixtures Of blue. gray, red and wine col
Ors. Brown and dahlia shades are favorites,
and will be very popular for demi-dress. Large
and fancy patterns are passe. A line of cork
screw wOrsteds, in all cOlofs, known as the
London Shrunk,' has attained great favor,
and are extensively purchased by fine trades
Among the prevailing styles for suitings are
neat WOrsteds with silk interviewer into small
and neat designs. Plaids and checks in broken
plaids and small checks are in great variety.
Distinct plain plaids are mostly found in sub
dued cOlOrs, but we have however, seen a few
patterns of light bold plaids, which will make
nobby suits to be worn mornings and
for races, and young men who can afford extern
sive wardrObes should purchase them. The
small neat stripes for suits have lost none of
their popularity, but appear to be increased
especially in small lines OF black and
white, brown and white, and blue and white.
Among other favOrites are rather bright colOrs
Maid UnrSfn6a hot lorf nd oon