The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1884-12-28
THE NILE CATARACTs.
The Perilous Work of Dragging Boats
Through the Rushing Rapids.


The Perilous Work of Dragging Boats
Through the Rushing Rapids.
Letter in London News
The other day Lord Wolseley, General Butler,
General Sir Evelyn Wood Colonel Brackenbury
and other officers of the staff rode out to see
nuggahs hauled through the Great Bab For
some ten or twelve miles their road lay across a
sandy desert not far from the river, and afforded
frequent views Of the lower islets, sweeping
round black rocks and palm m-fringed islets. Then
it branched off, winding through a wilderness of
huge powders piled in picturesque confusion
about what was evidently once the Nile bed
Some travellers have described these rocks as
granite, others as detached fragments OF a
basaltc formation. In reality they are neither
but are rather an imperfect porphyry, rounded
and blackeaed by the action of water. There
are deep holes in most of them that could only
have been followed by the rush and swirl of a
swift torrent. The prevailing color is
a curious blush black with an under
glow of red, like the rich tint of a northern
Nubian's skin. Where somo rude force has frac-
tured these rocks one discovers the cause of this
peculiar hue Mainly the formation is greenish
of compact grain, with lamin@ of mica inter
spersed irregularly. Near the surface is a layer
of red oxide, and over that thin coating of
black Among these powders hundreds of rus
sci rock doves hover sand larks rise at every
STEP species of ouzel, intensely black about
the neck, breast and wings, with frontal patch
and tail feathers of spotless white fit before one
or skim across the water; by the river brink
large wagtails marked like magpies run swiftly
in pursuit of insect prey; and in sheltered hooks
focks of the white ibis stand philosophically
contemplating the chances of meal Suddenly
one hears the roar of rapids, and sees the tawny
river seething between precipitous masses of
dark rock. A nuggah is being hauled up the
cataract by hundreds of dusky natives, whose
labors directed by officers and men of the
naval detachment, The reis, captain of the
nuggahs crew, stands in the PROV, with flag in
each hand by which he indicates the direction
that must be taken. His warning are repeated
rapidly by sgnalman perched on lofty height,
and by this means orders are given for each
gang in turn to strain on the hawser. 1t is
ticklish operation, by no means devoid OF dan
ger.
There are huge rocks in mdchannel, unseen,
but known to every reis of the cataract and
around one of these the waters sweep in strong
whirlpool As she reaches this point the mug
gish shivers violently, and a great wave rushes
over her bows. Then with loud shouts hun
dred natives throw all their weight on the port
hawser, and strain every muscle to keep the
boat steady. minute later those on the
opposite rocks have to haul with equally
strenuous might and so inch by inch the
nuggah is towed into still water. The slightest
mistake in time or suegishness in obeying
signal must result in disaster, Only few days
before one of these barges had been completely
wrecked She struck n rock one hawser
gave way, the next moment she was bottom up.
and her crew had disappeared in the foaming
cataract Luckily nobody was drowned, for
these Nublan boatmen swim like otters and
may be seen continually crossing the river close
above the rapid, apparently quite reckless of all
danger Their clothes are carried like turbans
wound about their heads, and an instant after
reaching land they envelop themselves in the
long flowing robes of thin cotton. From their
well creased bodies water slips quickly as from
ducks back, and they haYe, therefore, never to
trouble much about drying themselves. In this
labor of getting nuggahs through Bab-el-K Kebir
officers and men of the naval brigade have been
engaged day after day for months past. They
had to walk five or six miles from the naval
camp every morning, work under blazing sun,
without resting even for dinner, and walk back
at night not often getting to their tents much
before 10 o'clock. Well might Lord Charles
Beresford say that he was proud of belonging to
the service when he saw Commander Hammill
and other officers toiling among their men as if
to the manner born. The CHEEKY naval aide de-
camp is as ready as any of them to throw off his
coat and haul might and main when the occasion
offers 1t is needless to say that no attempt
will De made to take the comparatively frail
whalers up to this Bah -Kehir, and the only
point now to be settled so far as they are con
cerned is whether portage round the bah or
tracking through the western channel may be
more easily accomplished.