Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-08-16
CUCUMBERS.
An Old retuliice-EHistOricF actS-Vari.
Gus Uses.

From the st. James Gazette
Among the numerous surprises which the pro-
gress of analytical science has sprung upon our
modern cuisine are two of a very opposite but
equally Interesting nature. One is that the
oyster, Notwithstanding the high-sounding ira
dtlons and exclusive character. is after all little
better than an inpOster, being worth nutritvely
less than his own weight in milk. The other is
the announcement that the cucumber nearly
always partaken of with a certain inward mis-
giving as consequences. Is digestible, whole
some food; and that, we'll grown and properly
prepared, it may be unhesitatinglv received on
familiar footing This is something to say:
Tor prejudice has parleyed with the cucumber in
the character Of a possible enemy for more than
8 GOO years. Even within the memory of John
Evelyn 1t was accounted in England as little
better than poison, and perhaps no other fruit
ever succeeded in inspiring the same amount of
mingled esteem and dread. Among ourselves
the latter feeling has till quite lately predomi-
nated and most persons are familiar with the
oid-1astl!oned advice to pare your cucumber
carefully and after well pepperng it, cast it
forthwith out of window into the kennel" So
common was the feeling thus expressed that
Gay made it the subject Of smile in a stanza
of the 'Beggar's OPERA
When Polly's drest with care and cost,
All tempting, fine and gay,
AS men should serve q cucumber,
She filings herself away.
The origin of this prevailing idea it is now diff
ficult to trace. or even to conjecture. 1t is true
that there are many varieties of the cucumber
some Of which are esteemed rather tor their
medicinal than their edible virtues. Thus. the
intensely bitter cOlOcynth of the druggst-the
"bltter apple" OF commercials the produce of
the Kind known as cucunis colocoathis, nor is an
occasional tendency to bitterness altogether alb
sent In the common cucumber. By far the greater
number of the family are. however. both palata-
Die and wholesome. From time Inmemorial
they have been cultivated and eaten by the in
habitants of the east and west, and especially
by the natives Of Egypt and Asia, by whom
they are used Unfortunately as fruit
or vegetable, being consumed either raw or
cooked or picked in a great many different
ways. BY the luxurious Romans the cucumber
was also highly priced; and SO well did they I'M
derstand the habit and requirements of the
plant that its fruit has perhaps never since at
tanned higher standard. 1t was nevertheless
looked upon as questionable article Of con-
sumption, and sometimes even regarded as act
lively injurious; and this notwithstanding the
fact that Tiberius insisted on the cucumber be-
ing constantly served at his repasts. and that
the fashion thus set had induced his Weather
SUBJECTS to bestOw upon its cultivation all the
arts or which they were masters. The common
piactce was to grow them in frames covered
with lamna of tale; though forcing by means
OF flues or hot-water pipes was also resorted to.
as well as the plan of raising the plants in large
vases which could be moved TO receive the Con-
slant warmth OF the sun. Before being sown
the seeds were invariably steeped in honey: a
matter on which both Virgil and Pliny have
much to say; the latter, moreover. insisting
that the fashionable fruit was of so I'M
wholesome kind that at least two clear days
should be allowed for its digestion. At what
date this somewhat doubtful luxury was intro
duced into England is rather obscure. 1t prob
ably came to us Immediately from the Neither
lands; but there Is good reason for considering
1t to have been common long before the period
lty- occtxr e
reign of Henry VIII. But their Goodness"
caused cucumbers to be universally dreaded by
the faculty of the Middle Ages. The followers
OF Galen held them to be ''cold and moist in the
second degree" an opinion not rendered much
more explicit by the addition that if they were
but one degree colder they would be poison
With only its classic character to depend on, IL
Is not surprising, therefore, that our ancestors
dld not take very kindly to the cucumber. What
virtues 1t had were for long time regarded as
purely medicinal, and it once formed the fOun-
dalton Of larger number of chemical prepara-
lions than 1t does now even OF culinary receipts
AS matter fact, 1t Is not quite certain that
we make the most of this distinctive and re-
Ireshlng product. The cucumber Is best known
Dy the average Englishman in connection with
the salmon-an alliance which, both on theOreti-
and practical grounds, is no doubt to be highly
commended. But its delicacy and peculiar
freshness upon the palate might make it the
fitting accompaniment of many more highly
1t seems almost hopeless to advocate its more
extended use as vegetable pure and simple,
though 1t Is thus amenable to treatment In
variety Of forms and with the most excellent
results. Cucumber soup must certainly take
the palm from its cousin of Palestine.
though, strange to say, its appearance at
table is much less frequent. In truth. with
some employment of the rind Of the cucumber
In "cup" drinks, and with its stereotyped ap-
pearance in subsequently, much overpowered
with Oil and vfnegar-we are sufficiently con-
tent; and, though great artistes of the cuisine
have occasionally elected its higher possibilities.
the Englishman Is satisfied that these should
make their appeal to whom they may more
nearly concern. There is. however. a use for
the cucumber uhaecredted and too little known
or appreciated. In the sick chamber, and
when Ice is with difficulty obtained. slices of
cucumber laid upon a hot or aching head are
supremely grateful and refreshing. In this form.
indeed, the cucumber is worth all the washes
and extracts that have ever been obtained
from it; though, as Culpepper informed his
gentler readers. .'the juice OF cucumber is ex-
cellent good for sun-burning and freckles."