St. Paul daily globe. [volume] (Saint Paul, Minn.) 1884-1896, 1884-08-06
FASHION LETTER.
Puffery, Jewelry, Wooden FOR Morning
Dressy Afternoons aid Even
ings, Lawn Tennis
Notes,
Especial Correspondence of the Globe


Especial Correspondence of the Globe
New York, August 1. 1884.
Pufferv cannot puff too much our pulled
up styles; the dressmaker has been before
hand and done all that can be done. One
can scarce exceed a limit of one and half
feet of horizontal puffery for the tournure of
a lady not more than five feet in height.
Add to that the diameter of waist (not always
the most delicate) and you have a remark
able balance of proportions. a meaning
less puff at the waist line in front and an
other or several others below, with acme of
puffery by puffs at the sides may be obtained.
At times plump little lady INDUCES in a
revel of puffs and wears them all or again,
lady with wasp like waist will choose one
grand effort of putfery at the back. Here
one is nothing if not decided. The lines
are shapely drawn and a kind reader will
please imagine the contour. Perhaps it is
the plain round skirt with sash and belt
which saves us from an absoution of puff
cry AS relief one comes along; several
come along and taking courage we see
costumes come along, infected of course
with the epidemic of puffery but evidently
lHiIu CASES SUCH dS lHc ClcTGlUldu 5
wife might be affected by without scandal.
JEwELRY.
A season or two ago, the earring fell into
the same pit of oblivion which overwhelmed
the set, from present indications, jewelry
OF all kinds seems travelling the same down
ward path aud tender heart might feel like
solicitude for the jeweller as when an advent
OF simplicity overlook the hairdresser. The
latter however made up in front pieces what
was wanting at the back of the average head
and IN like manner now we find some few
great extravagances for evening wear, out
do the former perpetual efforts by day. A
single glittering row of diamonds for the
neck is worth many insignifcancies; one OF
more strands of fine pearls, bedeck with a
radiance that may well atone for hours of alb
stinence while as an evening earring, some
grand solitaire unique and hard to procure,
is perhaps more sought after than the new
common diamond, two often chosen by the
daughter of pill or the wife Of a medicine
bottle. Moonstones, so called because of
their soft playing light, sun-stones shining
like yellow diamonds, Alexandrites curiOusly
green by day and red by night or the equal
ly mysterious cats-eyes are in great demand
and cost accordingly. There is as yet po-
etc CLEAN about these jewels which has long
since departed from the diamond, the prey
of every body who has q hank account and
doubtless for that reason exclusives are ask
ing for diamonds that flash q pure yellow
light rather than the white. Buttercups,
daisies, wild carrots, wild roses and other
flowers exquisitely initiated by contrastings
of rubies, emerads, pearls, diamonds, and
glowing enamels are too beautiful to be laid
aside while specimens of the now extinct
reptile mania can scarce be abandoned.
More ordinary lace pins, an occasional
medallion or brooch are worn by day but it
is modestly done and one has the credit Of
much i'll safe deposit when the unadorned.
MORNING DRESS.
is Worn unadorned and of wool. A silllen
frippery before midday being looked upon as
savoring Of ''Sartoga where they do such
things YOU know Yet within the above
genteel limitations these sublimities do their
best and trim up white, flannel, corduroy
or cheyiot dresses with care which shows
that baptismal vows may have been laid
away in camphor. Frequently again, there
is an ostentation of plainess; no touch of
trimming, tailor's unobtrusive stitch com
porting with the puritan severity Of the peep
ing linen collar and gold button. Veilings
are allowable; young members often atone
by bright colors for lack of cxpensiveness
while as the nearest approach to ''dress'' one
beholds morning costumes Of pale gray,
mushrooms colored or changeable mOhairs.
BY and by the curtain is rung up and
DREssY COSTUMES
begin to be seen. Summer silks are sort OF
dawn before the perfect day. Too modest 10
be vulgar, they sometimes glimmer among
matutinal woods or glide unobtrusively where
Indian and Chinese fabrics drape. Siken
stufs are reached and here comes the climax
of puffery and what can one do but look
Wonderingly about one. The glitter grows
tiresome and one turns to lace dresses as "a
relief jaunty veilings prettily adorned are adj
missahle except on grand occasions. Lace
dresses indeed are kingdom in themselves.
| Not very expensive ones are OF black imita-
| ton chantiliy made over Surah and trimmed
| with ribbon or velvet bows. Spanish lace,
either black or white makes attractive dresses
and favorite white lace is imitation Mechln
or Eidelweiss in maiden's hair feru patterns.
Oriental laces are In many different designs
and all these lace costumes with lace bonnet
are among the most refined outfits. OF
course for full dress there are lace dresses
costing almost any amount of money: Silks
with rare lace founces and the like, but the
usual lace dress is not exorbitant and eX-
ceedingy becoming alike to the quite young
lady and the lady whose school days are grow
ing historical. Par excellence, the latter.
LAWN TENNIS.
Almost "down and out'' is the blouse
waist formerly thought essential to lawn
tennis. Thought so before the invention OF
the Jersey but now secondary. Since com
fort being the leading idea, there must the
jersey take precedence. The corsage ques-
ton being thus disposed Of, one finds all
manner Of pretty fances elaborated upon In
skirts. Here if ever one does as one chooses,
and given good idea il is acted upon re-
gardless OF what others are doing Some
skirts hang in uniformity of plating from
waist TO lower edge others are gathered at
the waist and from thence are plain; while
again we see an abandon OF ornament with
peasant like seeking after picturesqueness
as for example where unitings OF Turkey red
and blue cotton are wrought in snowy
stitches Of embroidery. Alpine hats with
high sloping crowns are picturesque; Leg
horn fiat always comes in acceptably and
pokes trimmed with null and flowers gives
variety.
NOTEs.
Mushroom has sprung up like veritablo
mushroom in the world Of color-Nonpareii
yelveteen received the only medal awarded
at the recent International exhibition at Am
sterdam, Holland.-Dressing sacques arc
made in Mother Hubbard style, plain yoke
with fullness shirred to II, sleeves rather full
and gathered to band with rulile to match
rufe around yoke-There is nothing tbe
Newport cottager 50 prides himself upon as
| his lawn which from never ending care be-
comes a real carpet Of green upon which
! Turkish rugs are layishly spread on occasion
OF the lawn party. Fanciful seats around
and delicate feet repose on the rug beside
! fhe rustic chair or bench, "COttagep is the