Middletown transcript., 1884-03-07
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of the gods.
Leaving the cl,
into the open 'couf
wound in and out am0nz
shapes and sizes, some w =
openings in their sides, sugge5
that some great convulsion of natufc,
had tossed them into such irregularity !;
then we came to level spaces where
the flooded rice-felds, winter wheat,
and many early vegetables, showed
careful tillage. The small thatched
rooted cottages of the farmers looked
almost like bird-houses, and were
grouped together away from the farms,
forming little villages. Children called
after us "Ohio" (good morning,) Il
spell by ear,) and as we are very glad
to air what little Japanese we know
we responded. One neat, low-roofed
building we passed on the way was
one of the many schools the govern
ment is establishing throughout the
country. Here and there, all too fire.
quently, clusters of trees and tori
like gateway indicated that small
temple was near, while Way-side
shrines abounded everywhere. AL
though "young Japan" of the educa-
ted classes is casting off Buddhism, and
like some of our young, superficial
thinkers at home, embracing infidelity,
still, we judge, it must have a strong
hold upon the common people.
After riding about three hours we
stopped to see some celebrated temples,
and to give our poor, little "jinriky
men," who had trotted on with undi-
minished speed all the way, chance
to rest and to take little rice and tea.
At the entrance of the grove we turned
to look at them, with the amiable wish
that they might now cool their heated
bodies, and enjoy their brief respite
firm severe toll, when 10 ! they were
laughing and playing leap-frog like
school boys.
The temple-groves seemed like sacred
ground, on account of their size, the
coolness5 depth of their shades, and
their noble trees of pine, camphor and
cryptomeria. These grounds had
broad, well kept walks and stone stair
ways. The buildings were large, i'm
posing and highly ornamented with
wood-carving, black and gold lacquer
and bronze. We stepped to the door
and looked within the sacred encIo-
sures at idols and idols, and saw the
offerings scattered around them. We
were permitted to ascend a low hill,
and by pulling beam, to strike huge
bell which gave out such a great,
booming sound as to startle US, yet it's
deep tones were very musical. Here
were boxes containing thousands of
straw sandals, the offerings of pilgrims
who have visited this shrine.
Returning we met a woman going
up to worship with incense sticks
burning in her hands, and at the tori
party of thirty pilgrims was entering.
Resuming our jinrikishas we again
rolled over the firm, smooth road until
we came to another large grove. We
dismounted and followed a broad.
paved path until suddenly there was
before us the Presence. There it sat,
ont in the open air, the immense idol
we had read about and desired to see.
Colossal in size, grand in its repose asa
work of japanese art, it was well worth
the journey but when we remembered
what it was, and noted the reverence of
the poor people around it, we were sad
dened by this stupendous monument to
false faith. We went inside the hol-
low figure, and of course found him
brainless and headless. Outside we
were requested to write our " honorable
names'' in register.
After partaking of luncheon under
the very shadow of the massive bronze
figure, where we could study the calm,
sweet expression of the face, as we had
attained the object of our pilgrimage
we started Yokohama-ward. We were
intending to go back by the Plains of
Heaven" I" which by the way are sue
cession of hills, but were diverted from
our purpose by discouraging accounts
of the road. We made little detour,
however, from the main thoroughfare,
to see some villages, plum blossoms,
wild japoniea trees, etc. men and wo-
men were working in the fields, or
carrying great loads on their backs,
AS the horses are SO scarce, the people
are their own beasts Of burden. On
several occasions through the day we
saw the Japanese pack-horse, which
had been described to us as a "vicious
BEAST" but upon which we expended
much sympathy when we noted the
burdens they carry in addition to the
great pack saddles. Twice small
patient-looking COW toiled past, almost
hidden by the packages piled on her.
Sometimes we came to bridges only
wide enough for a person to walk -
across. "Shall we walk over 2p I
called to an experienced member of the
party. Before an answer could be Civ
en-, the jinrikisha with its occupant
was lifted up and carried across by two
coolies who took the affair as very
commonplace matter. The ride back
was delightful, the air fresh and brac-
ing the country picturesque ifnot beau
tiful, and our manikins apparently in
strength and good spirits.
Soon the distant lights of the city
drew nearer, and again we were sur
rounded by pleasant, dark faces, and
heard the clatter of clogs Although
the words uttered on all sides were un-
to us the universal language
Of smiles and kind tones was under
stood and appreciated, and we found
NTH ~, T1o T1,,<-s~o.