Evening star., 1884-01-19
THE CHILIAN CAPITAL.
A Visit to Valparaiso.


A LIVELY SEAPORT-THE PLAZAS AND STREETS
FoRTIFICAT1ONs AND FINE BUILDINGs-A DAY
AT THE RACEs-AN AMERICAN HORSE BEATEN
IN CLOSE CoNTEsT-A TRIP TO SANTIAGO
UP THE ANDEs-GRAND MOUNTAIN SCENERY
INDIAN FRUIT PEDpLERs, ETC.
The following letter Is from a Washington boy
on board the o. s. 8. Wachusett to friends in
this city, describing visit to the Chilan capi-
tai in October last. Two previous letters
from the same writer, one describing his visit to
the volcano Mauna Loa, in Hawaii, and the
other giving graphic account of ride over
Meiggs' railroad, in Peru, have been published in
The STAR:
G. S. S. WACHUSETT. AT SEA,
Latitude 20o 40 s., longitude 15o 20 W..
November %, 1888.
will now tell you something about our trip
to Chilli. We arrived at Valparaiso on the 25th
Of October, and was much pleased to see again
place which looked something like one Of our
own live ports. The harbor was full Of steamers
and sailing vessels while numerous tugs were
continually steaming In and out, towing ships
and putting and whstling, all going to show that
we had once more reached country where the
inhabitants were full of life and energy, unlike
the lazy people found under tropical sun. All
along the shore are rows of two and three-story
stone. iron and brick buildings, the same in
style as those in our own country. The city is
huiit on narrow strip OF level land, not more
than quarter OF mile wide. overlooked by
abrupt hills two or three hundred feet high
The land slopes back from this until it forms a
range of low mountains a few miles from the
shore On the heights just above each end Of
the town are
FoRTIFrcATIoNs..
over which can be seen the muzzes Of numerous
large siege guns. In front of the city there are
water batteries. The Peruvans would have had
a warm reception if they had ever attempted
to lombard this city. Unlike their enemies
of the north when they went to war the Chilians
were prepared to fight and their successes all
| through the war; although the enemy outnum-
bered them, proves that in this age brains. used
judiciously, first, in preparation and then in the
execution of good plans, are what gains the
day. 1t seems that the countries nearest the
equator are always the least successful ones in
war. But to return to Valparaiso. Along the
shore, In front of the first row Of business
houses, the railroad runs, the depot being just
alongside the old custom-hOuse wharf, where all
| boats from ships in the harDor land. Passing
| through an archway, under the old custom
house. which Is now signal station and balsa,
you come out into
THE PLAZA INDEPENDENCfA,
In which is small statue OF O'Higgins, one of
the liberators Of Chilli On this plaza is sftu-
ated the post office. custom house. "Cartel
Jueral de Bambarous," Cor general office of the
fire Department., and the English hotel, all Of
them large and f1ne-loOking buildings. In the
dial of the clock in the steeple OF the court
house there is big round hole made by can
non ball when the Spaniards were bombardng
the place In 1868 From that year dates the alb
soute independence of this little country.
Along the streets running from this plaza are
numerous fine business houses. and by the num-
Der of people that thrOng them l judge that a
great deal Of business is done. The principal
street has great many different names, as it is
very crooked and at each turn receives new
one. 1t makes some very peculiar turns, for at
times 1t follows the course Of the hills and at
Others that of the beach. At a distance Of
about a mile and a-quarter from the custom
house, the street runs into
THE PLAZA VICTORIA,
beautiful little green park, with large foun-
tain in the center, which by the way, was cap
tured from Peru-taken from one of the plaZas
in Lima. Facing the plaza on one side is the
cathedral, a large building, but not nearly so
handsome as the cathedral in Lima. Alongside
of it is the Union church-an English place of
worship. 1t is only recently that anything ex-
cept Catholic churches have been tolerated.
The present president-Santa Marie-has sue
ceedcd in diss0Iving church and state. The
church's power is now only spiritual; no tenn
pOral authority being recognized. Up to q
few years ago the Pope, through his resident
representative, was virtually ruler Of the coun-
try On the opposite side of the plaza large
opera house Is In course of construction. When
finished.it is. intended to compare favorably
with any In our states On beyond the plaza
extends the Gale Victoria, with its many beau
tiful residences, which would do credit to
almost any city. After proceeding for mile or
SO along this street you come to the Almeda
which is as nothing in comparison with those Of
Santiago and La Sernea. After short ride
down the Almeda you come to the Baron rail-
road station where soon after our arrival we
took the train Tor
THE RACES AT vINE-DEL-NOR,
eight miles distance around the beach and at
the beginning OF a beautiful valley, leading in
land towards Santiago. This place is the sea-
side resort Of Chilians, and consists Of q num-
ber of picturesque villas and large hotel all
overshadowed by beautiful poplars and willow
trees, and very suggestive OF comfort and pleas
ure. 1t reminded me very much Of some of the
garden spots Of our own fair land. But about
the races. They take place annually, and the
race day Is the gala day of the season. Every
one goes out on that day, and If one fails to go
to the races something serious must be the
matter. After half an hours ride you are re-
leased from your little prison Of an English car
ny the guafue, WHO Casually TemaTks 'Carre-
da sumors," and you find yourself standing
under long line of poplars, which Overhang
the knoll surrounding the race track. OF course
being stranger, YOU naturally follow the
crowd into the enclosure when you find your
self on
A MODEL RACE COURSE,
which you could easily imagine to be in the
states, if it was not for some novel and very
pretty features. The track is as usual sur
rounded by white rail fence, and on one side is
the usual grand stand, judges stand, and paddock
where the favored few can go and see the racers
in their stalls. and perhaps get some valuable
points from the jOckies, who by the way are
mostly Americans or English. Behind and
above this are number Of booths built in the
face Of a rocky cliff, a couple Of hundred feet
high. They are owned by citizens, and fitted up
according to their tastes and means, some being
Around all of them could be seen eyergreeps
and national flags in great profusion. The prln-
cpal ornaments, however, were the pretty young
ladies' seated in them, and of these Chill has her
full share. BY their costumes and positions
one could almost imagine himself at the opera
instead Of at a horse race. All of the races we're
running races beginning with
A STEEPLE-CHAsE,
which afforded the usual amusement A mum.
Der Ofthe thirteen starters refused q hedge and
unseated their riders from their proud posi-
tions, both horses and riders falling into the
ditch beyond, to appear later with their shiny
coats and f1ashy jockey suits dripping with mud
and water: Fortunately, no one was severely