Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-11-02


vest fastened with small round bronzed
buttons and jacket basque. 1t is accom-
panied by long coat lined with satin.
AFLOwER DRESS.
One of the most poetic and charming
toilets ever imported IS Worth evening
dress brought from Paris by Miss Nc
Nay. 1t is made of moonlight tulle
studded all over with tiny silver loops
woven into the tissue, and through each
of which is passed the stem Of a wood ViO-
let in velvet. The viOlets also form a
fringe across the front, which ascends on
one side for a short distance, descending
again and ending with the beginning of
the small train, which is very full and not
bordered, and lifted in boutfant style upon
the point of the low bodice. Crossing this
and lightly touching the shoulder is a
delicate garland Of flowers, which form
the only ornamentation. The transparent
underskirt is bOrdered with a plating
edged with purple velvet, and this by
narrow pelisse of satin matching the tulle.
A white tulle made over white satin
had a train dotted with silver and front
composed of pleated tulle striped with
satin ribbon; the panels lengthWise, the
full front horizontally. The bodice Is very
low, pointed at the back, and forming a
full bust in front, surmOunted with shells
of Mechlin lace. There is a very novel
and becoming arrangement of folds which
pass under the arms, filling the hollow
and supporting the bust. There is a dis
tinct return to the low pointed bodice,
falling OH from the shoulders, and to the
short sleeves of fifty years ago.
A handsome dinner dress consists of
narrow demI-train Of dark prune velvet
or slightly draped front of magnificent
red, pink, gold, cream and bronze brOcade,
the cOlOrs and large flowers Of which
were toned down to the richest blending
of shades. The sides were of the brOcade
laid in wide folds and paneled with a
straight centre of pink and cream satin,
embroidered with an interlinked design
in pearl.
a bronze Sicillienese dress is made
over a velvet skirt trimmed with fur, the
draping effected with bronze beaded orna-
ments. The bodice of this is high, the
back of the basque full and leaf shaped.
The vest is of deep canary cOlOred crepe,
and forms full chemisette; a narrow
pulled edge OF the Grape is inserted also
at the wrist, which has a novel effect.
Smoke shades, dull gray, blues and
browns, are the cOlOrs in cloths, and the
simple designs, straight or arranged
without Topped up drapery, obtain their
distinction from shades of color, the
beauty OF the material and the amount of
work put on in braided designs.
A golden brown cloth looks exceedingly
well braided in silk and chenille, and a
very stylish jacket in dark smOke-gray is
covered with braiding pattern in seal
brown, below which seal brown plush
forms a second short skirt and also vest
A gorgeous wrap was in wonderfully
lowered brocade upon a black ground
with an inner garment of velvet bOrdered
with rich feather trimming. The brOcade
Uva ITUh o,,A
front fastened with fine cameo clasps. A
carriage wrap is of turkey red wool, FORM
ing deep basque back which is pleated
in the skirt and braided with black. The
sleeves are long, loose and pointed. The
fronts are striped with back velvet across
and killed to the feet, to the top of which
they extend. The terry and silk brOcades
are the same styles as were formerly used
for upholstery purposes alone, and then
straight curtain valence, recessed and
lifted styles of the skirts and draperies
suggest the forms and uses to which they
have been applied.
NEW TAILOR-MADE DRESSES.
Redeem, the famous English tailor, now
supplies quite number of ladies in New
York and particularly in Boston with his
specialities. He is the tailor to the Prin-
cess of " ales and her three daughters,
and his styles retain more of the true
tailor spirit and finish than many others
who have so long followed the lead of the
mOdiSte as to have lost all distinctlVeness,
their models simply putting into cloth,
where they are insutferable, the faults
and vagaries which may be pardOned in
materials more ephemeral. Among the
Redeem costumes recently received by a
family in which there are a number of
girls was cancels hair in Lincoln green
striped with velvet and made with a
very simple scarf drapery which formed
a short apron, and folds at the back over
the velvet stripes of the skirt. Between
the stripes were clusters of folds forming
knife pleatings which alternated with the
stripe. The bodice was plain, jersey
shaped, and formed an inserted plat at
the back. The front was buttOned straight
down until within two inches of the edge,
where il was cut away diagOnally. An
''Officer's" straight standing collar sur
rounded the throat, and three buttons
finished the sleeves at the wrist, where
they were cut quite close. A suit of gold
brown cloth was made in panels edged
with fur over a velvet skirt with narrow
fur edge. The panels were also edged
with soft fur, and soft fur formed the vest,
or that portion of it which the jacket
traVersed, in straight lines of narrow
brown silk braid with gold threads left
visible. The front of the skirt formed the
plain part of panel; the back was laid
in straight plaits with short drapeTy, and
the sides and bottom of the cloth panels
opening over the velvet, were in addition
to the fur bordered beyond 1t with several
lines of braid like that upon the jackets.
A band of fur finished the neck and
wrists.
A very handsome coat was of smoke
gray, lined with satin and decorated with
graduated coils of braid, five in a series,
forming funnel-shaped ornaments, which
were placed at regular distances down
the front and round the bottom of the
garment. The sides were plain and
opened over a killed skirt of dark red
wool. The back was laid IN wide, close,
side plaits and made rather bOufdnt.
The ornaments assembled the sides of the
bodice, but occupied reversed position,
the wider part coming to the top, and
small one was also placed upon the back
of each sleeve.
A charming gown was made from a
heather mixture in old blue and black.
The skirt of this dress displayed in the
front two deep, fine Killed fiounces, sur
mounted by a small, round shawl-shaped
apron, braided with black in a fiat open
pattern. The pattern was repeated upon
the edge of the Yest-shaped basque, upon
the straight standing collar and the back
of the narrow waist. The back of the
skirt was draped up very gracefully, on
the front Of the basque, according to order.
A cloth tOque, with braided crown and
band composed Of folds put on as irregu-
lar loops and decorated with cocks
plumes, accompanied this dress.
For a slender girl of Is still in the
schOOl-rOOm, there was a lovely dress of
wood brown serge, soft finished and orna-
mented with little sprays Of leaves, en-
brOidered and shaded in natural autumn
cOlOrs rather softer and more subdued
than those to which we are accustomed.
The dress was jersey SHAPED, the skirt
laid in rather wide folds, the scarf end
brought UP over one hip-the right-While
upon the left a spray of vine leaves with
tendrils was apparently thrown. A little
vine of the same surrounded the neck,
and the pretty and graceful ornamental
ton was repeated at the top of the sleeve
in diagonal lines, and at the wrists.
a brown wooden travelling dress was
accordion pleated and had a draped over
skirt, the apron pointed at one side and
laid in diagonal folds. This, as we'll as
the jacket bodice, was stamped with
brown leather in a scroll pattern, out
lined with gold and chenille so fine as to
be barely visible. A stamped vest of soft
leather accompanied it, and each was
quite independent of the costume. There
were several independent vests and
iackets-one of the latter braided across
the front and trimmed with Astrachan
cloth TO match There were also several