National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1884-04-21

bLutT lOItlku OlOOus
Soon the valley began TO narrow, and
being as yet at the foot Of the towering
mountains IL seemed as If they would close
together and crush us, but the river chat-
tered away beside us, and on the slopes
above our heads we could see the old open
aqueducts of the Incas, marked by line OF
green grass on either side that arc SUN
used. and so were comforted by the visible
assurance that the valley had not closed up
in past centuries and therefore was not
likely to that day. We also passed O couple
of Inca villages, all silent and deserted,
roofless and tenantlcss, they seemed nt
emblems of the valley which once held
100000 happy people in its embrace, ana
now there are hardly more than that NUM-
Der in all Peru, thanks TO tho Spaniards
insatato thirst for gold, the revolutions and
wars of the present governing class, and tho
introduction of frewater among tho once
temperate people.
The Peruvian government never paid for
the railroad, so IL has mover been turned over
to them, and is under the protection Of tho
stars and stripes. After the capture Of Lima
there was more or less fighting along the line
during the war, but tho road itself was not
injured and the Chilians had poaceable pos
session when we went up, and have it still,
although the Peruvians under Gen. Carceras
will soon have 10.
We passed the mouth of n narrow fertile
valley which Is CullGu iulnlla, NelGDTUltN lOI
its oranges and other tropical fruits Then we
began to feel thatwe were clmbingup, for we
left tho river below u.s. and could see beside
IL what looked like the plan Of a large Span
ish city. 1t looked like plan because only
the foundations were left yet you could SEQ
the houses outlined, as well rs the streets, the
inevitable plaza, with large church on one
side and the foundation for the crucifx that
stood In front. No one now living knows
how this town was destroyed, but there are
two legends about it, one being that it was
destroyed by flood, and the oher that the
natives, driven TO desperation by the cruelty
of their masters revOltod, killed their oppress-
ors, destroyed the town, aud fled to the noun
tains.
Farther on is another valley, several miles
up which are the ruins of u large Inca city,
and just beyond here we took turn and
found the river again flowing on q level with
the track. Soon we stopped at the little
town of Chosica, which was formerly much
favored summer resort but now is little moro
than ruins, for the Chlians destroyed it, and
the surviving natives fed to the mountains
that wall in the town So grandly There were
a lew workmen there rebuilding the hotel
and perhaps half Il dozen natives looking on
The native Indians are short, thick set, with
large heads and intelligent faces
Among the few hero saw q
woman with her large, long apron
worn twisted to one side, which is tho out.
ward and visible sign. of mourning for the
last of the Incas, and is worn by many OF the
pure blooded native women. This was our
first experience of the ancient custom of dis
arranging the garments as q sign of mourn
ing. Then there was guard of Chilian SOL
diers quarterCd in an engine house, and that
was all except tho ruined house. From here
began tho grand scenery, and two glorious
old monarchs that narrow tho valley until II
Ia hardly m fbnn "A rlnft nanDl the
gates of the Andes passing these you went
gliding past mountain spurs ran through them
in tunnel, or climbed over them by u sys-
tenn of VS., as the railroad men call them.
Now and then, glancng down, you saw the
valley far below you, with cultivated fields or
barren sides, and always the river rushing
along in the middle, while perhaps between
you and the river were two or three tracks
over which you had passed, while above you
were those of the future. In one place you
see two tunnels above you, directly over one
another, and you believe it when you are
told that you are to pass through them, but
it looks impossible, SO high up and like black
dots do they appear. Suddenly you again
find the valley on level with you and
you stop at the point of V, and backing up
the other side OF it stop at tho town of San
Baritone formerly celebrated for its figs. but
now, like all the rest of the towns, heap of
ruins, the FIX trees probably cut up for fuel.
The usual guard of Chilian soldiers were
lounging about and we picked some pretty
red berries from q tree before continuing our
journey. We kept on ascending, whisked
over the Puente Aqua de Nerrugas, and began
to be intimate with mountain peaks instead
Of spurs, the sides Of which were covered with
many cacti that assumed odd and curious
shapes, and divided our attention be-
tween these, luncheon, precipces, and
tunnels. At Tambo dc Viso we
II ,,;,
making no more fuss than If it were on q
level, but, with full steam on, pushed un-
tiringly ahead Suddenly we emerged from
atunnel and came to ahalt upon a slight iron
bridge hung over q yawning chasm, and we
looked out and admired, while inwardly
quaking, for the bridge looked so slight. On
either side rose precipitous, barren mountain
sides aud peaks. Each end rested on the
mouth of tunnel, one Of which was the old
river bed, while another tunnel close beside
it took the river and let it fall sheer dowr
into the valley below. When the engineers
came to this place they had to bo lowered
down the precipices by ropes to plan the tun
mel mouths, and workmcn had to be lowered
in the same way to cut them 1t Is ar
awful place, and well named In1ernillo Qittlt
hell.
Just beyond here We left behind US tn,
last Of the hanging gardens Of Peru, which
although the work of man, adorn many o
her mountain sides, and vie with the wonder
ful works Of nature. They consist of ter
races that rise from the valley straight vi
the mountain sides almost TO the peak the!
are irregular in shape and size, and are faceC
with stone walls; each one could be irrigated
by means Of water led in a ditch, and in tn
time Of the Incas they were fertile blooming
places, whereas now the bitches arc broker
and they are barren and desolate, thei
former owners having gone to join tho grea
majority.
We pas. cd many dirty looking hol IS in tn
mountain sides, from which q stream O
black looking earth had fallen down, an
were told that they were silver mines. The,
evidently have not been worked to any eN
tent, and way Off in the distance those littl
holes looked rather discouraging, but may b
embryo COmstock lodes
There is one tunnel called the Horse Shot
because that Is the exact shape and whe
you enter it you sec on one side the en
from which you will emerge. and when yo
do emerge from IL you see where you entore
and arc on q bridge then you run along
precipice, through another tunnel, an
emerge from that one only to begin ascend
ingaV. To got correct idea of these V
you must fancy them laid onitheir Sides the
you will SEQ that o train starting from on
end, running up to the point Of the trangl,
and then backing up to the other end, ha
climbed good way up the mountain sid
while running only short distance.
One of the party noticed some flowers grow
ing near tho track, and when the engin
stopped before backing up V he sprang ou
and started for them. In few seconds
stopped and returned slowly to us, his face
deep purple color and his breathing heavy
This was my introduction TO sorOehe, as ii
called here; that is the effect of tho rarifle