Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1884-03-20
LIFE IN A RUSSIAN CITY.
Scenes i'm MDsc0vv-Tea-Drimlki "a
National Institution.

1t would be very incomplete sketch
of Moscow that did not treat Of the
'trsktirs" or tea-houses. They abound
in every street, lane, and ally, rivalling in
their number the public houses of West
e-c lands. The drinking of 'tchai'' is,
indeed, prominent feature of Russian
life. Everyone has heard of the precious
packages Of tea, the best that the Flow
cry Land can produce, brought across the
steppes Of Tartary and through the passes
Of the Oural mountains to the great fair
Of Nishni- -Novgorod. Enter traktir at
what hour Of the day you please, it al
ways seems crowded. A corpulent little
saint, with smiling countenance, who
is supposed specially to preside over tea
drinking, is perched in one corner. The
Russians, as they enter, uncover their
heads, and bow to this patron of s'the
Gun that cheers but not inebriates."
ProtuSely prespiring, and, indeed, com
pletely saturated with tea, the habitues
talk over and settle matters Of business
or pleasure, strike bargains, and balance
accounts. Merchants, brokers, bankers,
confer and transact business, pleasure
seekers arrange their plans, estranged
friends make up their quarrels, over the
steaming tumblers. Who can doubt that
tea-drinking in Moscow is a great ma
tional institution One of the chief
houses of cali for merchants in Moscow
is the Moskousk Traktir This is no
ordinary establishment Tall, robust
servants, in white trowsers and tunics,
move to and fro, and assiduously wait
upon the guests. The cooking at this
establishment is celebrated, but it is for
tea-drinking that it is chiefly frequented.
If you have no one to talk to, you can
smoke a pipe or cigarette and listen to
the organ. At almost all restaurants,
however humble, musicis supplied. The
organ at the Moskouski Traktir was made
atWurtemberg expressly for this establish
ment, and cost 5000 1t plays when
1t is wound up, and is limited to just
twenty tunes, so that those who frequent
this traktir year after year must find
little sameness in the performances. But,
after all, it is in the tea gardens and
similar suburban resorts that the most
pleasing phases of Russian tea-drinking
are witnessed Beneath the trees. in
every direction, happy family groups
surround the FURNISHED urns, and in re
tired hooks the teapots are witnesses to
lovers vows. The Petrofski gardens
are very favorite resort. In 1912 Ma
poleon lodged here for time in the
chateau built by the Empress Elizabeth.
The road from Moscow is thronged with
carriages and droskies and well-dressed
pedestrians Guards and police keep
order at the gates that admit to the
various attractions within-the prone
nades and lawns and copses; the rustic
cottages, stalactite caves and glens and
grottoes; the lake, the fountain, and the
marble statues. In the evening avenues
Of nlany-colored lights and festooned
arches conduct to pagodas used as thea
tres for various OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
dramas, in which the fun is somewhat
broad and grotesque, exhibitions Of
tumbling, and so forth. Grand displays
of fireworks terminate the proceedings.
The ordinary town peasant usually af
fects red shirt and high boots. The
moujik, fresh from the country, is mostly
clad in coat of undyed homespun cloth,
and in lieu of stockings he winds cloths
round about his legs. His feet are shod
with sandals Of plated linden bark. The
lower classes in Moscow are for the most
part smiling and good-natured, but slow,
slouching, and shabby in their appear
ance. They are also very frequently
drunk, for though fond of ''tchai,
they by no means confne themselves to
It. In addition to Sundays there are no
less than fifty clearly defined an
nual holidays kept in Moscow,
and the holiday-makers are usually
incapable all next day. A Russian
nurse is conspicuous object in the pub
lie street. If her infant charge is boy
she is attired in blue; if a girl, in red.
Should she be in the service Of some
rich family her dress is lavishly trimmed
with gold, above which hangs an apron
of fine dotted muslin. There is plenty
of bread made in Moscow that is not
black-indeed, good sweet bread is
speciality of the city, and is often sent as
a present to friends in St. Petersburg.
The water is brought twelve miles in
water-courses from the Mytistchi springs
to the public fountains, but is very sell
ingly, to supply domestic needs
tribe of water-carriers are only one
among many classes of itinerant
venders and workers. A funeral
in Moscow, when conducted, as is
usually the case, in the orthodox ma
tional manner, is picturesque and in
teresting spectacle. The procession is
headed by long bearded priests in their
black robes, carrying shrines and burning
tapers in their hands. Next comes the
hearse with four horses. On the stems
Of the hearse are more priests, holding
images Of the Saviour over the coffin
Yet more follow, speaking words of con
ISOLATION to the friends and relatives of
the departed As the procession moves
on the people in the streets cease from
their occupations, uncover their heads,