The Press., 1884-08-14
WASHINGTON LETTER.


 To casual observer on some of the streets of this city it would seem that Washington might be called, with Venice, "city of palaces" so varied, beautiful and such wonders of architecture are the government buildings, and some of the private residences that stand on K street, or Connections avenue, and around the parks and circles in the fashionable part of the city. Some of the house appear to be built in imitation of the medieval castles, and so marked is the resemblance that it would need only the addition of a few war. like defenses to cause lively imagination to think that at any moment the draw bridge might be lowered, the port cullis raised, and gallant knight armed cap-a- pie ride forth on his mailed charger, pre- pared for battle.
 But if the same observer should turn down another street, and walk for quar- ter of mile, everything would be changed. Where refhe castles, the plumed knight {? Vanished as completely as the days of feudalism and chivalry have disappeared. But, instead, IS a scene equally pleasing to the eye. Gently sloping hills, green val leys, artificial lakes, cottages over grown with ivy, flowers, both wild and cultivated, growing here and there, and, beyond, parks, combine to form scene that lacks only shepherd with his flock, and crook to realize Arcadia.
 But when the visitor has feasted his eyes on these tinted landscapes, let him turn away and stroll down Virginia avenue into the southwest parts of the city. There he will see the seamy side of Washington. Miserable tumble-down shanties with their environment of filth, empty oyster cans, old shoes and other garbage, sickening sights, noisome smells. Here negroes flourish in filth, and live no one knows how. Here they sleep in the sun through the summer, and here they starye and freeze in winter. Here their naked pro- geny enjoy mud baths in frog ponds. Sel- dom do these sooty gamins touch water for cleansing purposes, and in their rags and filth they present as strong contrast to the dainty, perfumed darlings that prom enade the fashionable parts of the city, as their habitations do to the palatial resi- dences of the latter. In this disagreeable and unhealthy place, animals are permitted to roam in comparative freedom around the streets and COWS and goats browse among the marshes and swamps almost within stone's throw of the white house.
 It is one of the characteristics of Wash ington, that thus almost kingly grandeur, rural simplicity and African squalor are ill close proximity.
 Washington is in many respects beau tiful city, and efforts are being made con- tinually to increase it's adornments, and to remove all unsightly objects. A begin ming has been made even in the south western district, but necessarily it must take some years to clean this Augean quar- ter. In the northern part the broad, ash palt pavements, edged by rows of large trees, the beautiful houses, the numerous parks, the equestrian and other statues all add to it's beauties. And the streets (swept by revolving cylinder brooms drawn by four horses) are generally clean.
 New houses are arising everywhere with almost magical rapidity, the parks are in- creasing in number and beauty and the day is not far distant when Washington will vie with the most renowned capitals of ancient or modern times, both in health and beauty.