Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-09-07

interest for women from the tricycle. point
1f view, no lady owning one yet in this
country, it is said, and but few gentle
men. There Is one at Long Branch which I
was imported from Coventry, England, at
a cost OF $3.50, and it attracts great atSen-
ton wheH the gallant tricyciist, in his
Oscar Wide costume adopted long be-
fore Oscar Wilde was seen here, goes
out, or with a friend, who is rot I'M
a lady-for it is a 'latest i'm
proved" operated single or double. 1t is
safe and perfectly balanced, with a move
ment as true as a watch. But bicycles /
and tricycles require hard, smooth mac /
adamiZed roads, such as are rarely found /
in this country, for the Earring overrOugh /
ground not only interfeTes with speed and |
pleasure, but impairs the machinery anu |
sends it to coventry or elsewhere for re-
pairs.
But the dress has an interest for women
apart from the tricycle., and Will eYentu-
ally take certain place as bathing and
other costumes have which are not seen
upon the fashionable promenade. 1t is true
that the claim is made for 1t that it is
above all Chings a modest and sensible
walking dress; but those who object to it
in that capacity in a city cannot question
its usefulness and suitability for boating,
climbing and country walks in fields and
woods. 1t is also an admirable school
useful, protective and rational for those
who have spent the past summer in
damp and chilly atmosphere by the sea
than the limp and inadequate garments
many Of them have shiyeIed in.
EARLY AUTUMN sTUFFs AND STYLES.
With the approach of autumn there is
great activity in cloth and wOolens, and an
unusually early demand for fall suits,
caused doubtless by the cool summer.
which has prevented many ladies from
even unpacking their lightest dresses. 1t
is less question now than formally
whether certain fabrics and designs are
the newest. We have at last arrived at
that stage of common sense where a GER
tain fitness is taken for granted, and gar
ments may be bought without waiting to
see the last fashion plate, provided they
suit the season and preserve harmony of
tone. This is acknowledged to be the es-
sentIal element in all dress, the difference
between plain and ''fOule" dress, or
street and indoor dress, being that
in one case il is the harmony Ofsimplicity:
in the other of cOmpleXity. The plainness
of street dress for several years past has
really developed its excellence. The
money that was formerly spent on trashy
trimmings which made the wearers
hideOus or ridiculous is now put into sub
stantial fabrics, into handsome Innings
and superior workmanship. There is no
better evidence needed of the improve
ment which is gradually taking place in
street dress than the contrast between
what was and what Is even among the by
no means exclusive thrOng that fill the
shops and sidewalks.
Soft, pure woods have been and are a
means of grace. They are sanitary, lovely
to the touch, gentle and healthfu in their
influences. Few know, however, what
fine and pure wool really is, for the major
ity use it like their cOffee-badly prepared
or adulterated. There are no wooden fab
RIGS in the world superior to those of
American manufacture at their best.
But it is rarely we find them at their best,
and when we do the cost is annihilating.
The best flannel made in this country is
produced by a Shaker community at
Amana, Ia. 1t is warm, even beautiful
material, shrunk before being sent from
the mill, so that 1t requires no further
shrinking, anu maintains all it's virtues
in the hands Of a careful laundress.
The red Amana flannel is in demand
among those who are aware Of its superb
GRITTY, because it is dyed with pure cOchi-
neal which contains whatever restorative
properties are attributed to this peculiar
dye in wool, while for the majority of red
flannels cOmmOner and sometimes more
harmful dyes are used. The shrinking
process was formerly part of the Finish"
of fine cloth; now it must be done by the
tailor or modiste. 1t is not an easy pro-
cess for the dressmaker living in narrow
quarters or the amateur at home, for it is
necessary to obtain strip Of unbleached
muslin as long and as wide as the piece
of cloth, and dip it in clear, fresh water.
Let it drip until it drips no more,
then lay the cloth upon it and roll it
tightly in it. Fasten it with pins and
put it under pressure. A mangle is used
sTs,1,T Ia
become very wet and thoroughly dry.
When it comes out of this it will stand
water as brave soldier stands fire, with
out shrinking. The accordion pleating
is made by laying in the close narrow
pleats while the material is wet, and sub
jecting them to both heat and pressure
till they are dry. 1t is the same principle
as that by which our grandmOther's cap
borders were quaffered halfa century ago.
Such tailor made suits as are in pre-
paratiOn are bOX-pleated or laid in clus-
tiers of side pleats with wide box-pleating
between. The OVerskirts are short and
are draped to one side, and the short coat
bodice is either buttOned over on the side
or made with reYers, and with full skirt
which fills in the space above the plastron.
Last year this plastrOn and the mounting
were often of velvet; this year the wool
is very stylishly combined with darker
shade of the material or with wool upon
which there are raised velvet or en-
broidered figures. Small half moons en-
brOideTed in shaded silk or chenille
are quite new designs in this direction,
but nothing of a fancy character is so
permanently good and useful for street
wear as those which are self-cOlored.
Flower and leaf patterns have subsidized
in favor OF rings and square blocks,
''quadrille patterns" as the squares are
called, and close arabesque designs are
also revived. The patterns of rich
autumn fabrics which have appeared are
in amethyst, smoke gray and chestnut
cOlOred satin and velvet the surface
thlckly covered with curves and old
architectural designs in cut and terry
velvet and satin. These magnificent
fabrics will be made up with satin front,
covered with embroidered lace or with
lace f1ounces and pendant ornaments.
Twilled silk serge, which is a mixture
of silk and wool, is good looking and
comparatively inexpensive material for
fall wear. The silk is usually white what
there is of it, which is not much, the
wool black, brown, or dark gray; and it is
made up over a silk skirt of the dark
shade, the plain silk being used for the
full skirt front, or for facing the collar
and cuffs; also for the bow if a bow is en-
plOyed for the back, and shot silks are
used for dressy purposes and show some
are made up for visiting and dinner
dresses with velvet in the darkest shade
of the silk and lace. Almost all dresses
are now made with the full fronts, and the
style is so ''run into the grOund'' that it
cannot survive long, becoming as it is to
the fiat and narrow chested. 1t is wasted
and worse than wasted on those who pos
sess a well-rounded figure, charm that
is certainly displayed TO the best advant-
age in a plain perfectly fitting satin
cOrsage.
What are called lace dresses will be in
great vogue again, the beauty of the mod
eFR machine products and their compare
tive cheapness producing finer effects for
a given amount than can be obtained in
any other way.
HOUSEHOLD LINEN.
There is no better test OF a woman as
hOusekeeper than the condition of her
linen closet. A good and complete sup
ply of this essential to pleasant living is
a luxury which it requires habit and
training TO appreciate. and the depri-