Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1884-01-06
THE WINTER FASHIONS.
STYLES OF DRESS 10 BE WORN
THIS SEASON.
Fer In and Out OF DOors-FoF Recep-
usAs and Balls. For the New Year at
Hsme and for New Year Gifts-Lvxu-
r4es Of the Male Toilet.

Fer In and Out or DOorE-FoF kecep-
usAs and Balls. For the New Year at
Hsme and for New Year Gifts-LUxu-
rEes OF the Male Toilet
CorresDondeaoe o. The Morning Eescs.
NV YORK, Jan. 4.-The cold wave that
saHse the week before Christmas aud the
sEow storm that followed it were a special
Providence to the fur dealers and helped
4heR to get rid OF part Of their super
Eueus stock Of costly fur garments. It is
rather a curious fact thatifitis not cold be-
fore Christmas, the fur season tor Dealers
IS = failure, an Arctic temperature after
wards failing TO restore the market to
activity. This leaves many fur garments
IN stock which it is a risk or certain loss
10 carry over, and might prove disastrous
in case Of an over supply Of the present
lSng and costly designs.
The recent importations in seal skins
are IN very long and simple forms, but
setter adapted 70 driving than walking.
They consist Of Newmarket coats, close
eat paletOts and Russian peiIsses in place
or the dOlmans that have been worn 50
long. They inclOse the body in fur, with
the aid Of a seal skin tOque and mIf, and
are thoroughly protective against snow or
wind. Fashion is not allowed TO be as ca
PRECIOUS as it is commonly thought. W hen
It creates an industry it is Obliged to sus-
tain it. Six millions of skins have been
obtained from Behring's sea since 1871, and
enc New York firm alone contracts for
40. 600 skins annually. the seal is a very
curious and interesting animal, and the
ladies y no told the soft lovely fur about
their bodies would do well to learn some
thiRg of its curious instincts and habits,
RaBy OF which ally il very nearly to the
primitive human.
Neither the seal Newmarket nor the
isng plush cloak are very convenient for
walking unless the dresses worn with
them are made short enGGgh to need no
lifting in crossing muddy streets or in as
sending and descending the steps Of the
elevated roads.
1t Is the custom Of all women in walk
iHg, and IL is u necessity IN the streets of
New York. TO grasp the dress from behind
- lift il out Of peril at frequent intervals.
The amount Of strength expended upon
this performance alone would rescue from
want every needy woman and child if it
were put into remuneTatiVe work, but the
feAt becomes difficult and almost impO5si-
bic when the fingers have to hold within
their GRASP the thicknesses Of heavy coat
or cloak before reaching the folds Of the
dress. Women who do not walk or ride
en- the elevated rOade have not this prob
~, but they lose the freedom, the fresh
Air, and the exercise Of muscle. The girls
have he best OF it with warm underwear,
cloth tailOT-made suits, fur capes and
suns, and tOques Of cloth trimmed with
= band of fur and wing TO match. Natural
Beaver or otter are the furs generally pre-
ferred. Certain shades OF red-dark or soft
shades are very much USED, but not for
she street as formerly. Grays and gray or
brSHn tints are better worn this season.
sOHE STAGE DRESSES.
1t seemed great pity that the new
play, Duty should have been removed
80 soon from the stage Of the Madison
Square Theatre, FOR the costumes were
very handsome. and some of them worthy
OF study. Among these was "A Princesse
dress of gray plush with mantle lined
with satin and trimmed with chinchilla-
walking dress of COpper-brOWn velvet
with tOque, mUT and mantle of plush
. short dress OF pearl gray silk with long
cloak and Mother Hubbard bonnet
trimmed with seal-brOwn plush, and a
white cashmere trimmed with white
plush and white satin ribbons. Miss
Marie Burroughs, who is distinguished
not only for her intelligent acting, but by
her good taste in dress, wears beside the
gray plush dress mentioned a very hand
some black toilet with black lace sleeves
and square neck and garature of jet. The
Madison Square is one Of those theatres
which can usually be relied upon for cor
rect dressing, and this is really one OF the
uses Ofthe modern stage--one that Is under
stood only by a few actresses in "A few
theatres anywhere, but is a most effective
if Indirect means of cultivating good ideas
in regard TO what IS suitable TO wear at
different times and seasons, and also
what is always and forever unsuitable.
We have eXtravagant dressing on the
stage, the common Idea being merely fine
clothes, without regard to their expression
Of ideas or fitness; but there is great room
fer education both on and Off the stage in
this respect. and the stage is 50 powerful
an influence in forming public opinion,
or rather in creating pubic sentiment
in regard to matters social and artistic,
that its code in dress, if established and
known to be based on right principles,
would be studied and accepted as un-
written law. As an example of its effect
IN satirizing OstentatiOus display, may
be mentioned the gorgeous costumes
worn by Mrs. Florence in the al
Righty Dollar" an exhibition which
Gxes indelibly in the mind of those who
witness the performance the idea of vul-
garity with display. This it may be sup
posed is so patent a lesson that it does not
require learning; but rules which apply
10 every other social question are dlsre-
sarded where dress is concerned, and if
women could see the fOllIes and Outrages
Ep0n good sense and taste as others see
them, they would very quickly drop them:
In this same play of Duty young
wife wears a snowy red and yellow dress
10 please her vulgar and display-lOving
mother but takes il off and appears in a
white dress to please her husband. But
fortunately the red and yellow mania has
subsidized, we are beginning to get u
glimpse of the meaning Of harmony of tone
in costume, and for aid TO obtain this
insight women will be largely indebted to
Mr.. Irving and Ellen Terry.
COMING INTO SOCIETY.
The first season in society, so eagerly
anticipated by young girls, is a matter fire.
quently of great anxiety to mammas who
are obliged to preserve appearances on a
limited allowance, or such occasional
Soles as they can succeed in extracting
from the pockets of their husbands. and a
few hints as TO methods in such cases may
not be out of place. The great difficulty
20 be met is this. The girl has left school.
has passed out of the old circumscribed
conditions and relations, and into new
ones. She has obtained her growth. She
can no longer wear school girl clothes.
For years all her natural desires for
s'pretty things has been reprcssed under
she plea OF waiting till she obtained her
freedom from school duty and an accred-
tied place III 0Gr little social world. 30
now she seems to want everything ''all
at once" a state of affairs no man could
ever be made 20 understand so long a his
woman kind had gown Of any Kind to
stand upright in. But the mother real
ICES the situation perhaps she re-
members how il was herself
and devOtes many hours to the
solution Of the perpleXing problem. To
assist il may be said, first, that the two
most needful dresses a girl can be pro-
Fided with are black and a white. The
white may be ivory sUrah, and should be
trimmed with lace and ribbons; the black
a good satIn-d e-lyOn or faille with square
front and sleeves of handsome but not
large patterned Spanish lace. A third
dress may he of tinted silk, trimmed with
lace and ribbons-the lace soft white, the
ribbons matching the silk, q CONTRAST
contrast in color will only lower the tone
and vulgarize the whole effect. Then for
4 theatre dress should be pro-
vided a secondary skirt Of gray
OF ecru tinted silk and 4 Jacket
CT ruby OF amethyst velvet with full lace
vest and ruby or amethyst lOgue with a
merle band and wing. Her walking dress
may be OF plum-cOlOred clOth-the pure
prune, not the red shade-aud it may be
made with Jacket and worn with a cape
and muff of natural beaver or with a
Newmarket, and trimmed with fur, the
collar and mum to match. Hats for girls
are not now a difficult matter. There are
roIapfv m choose from Of n nraotical ond