Barbour County index. [volume] (Medicine Lodge, Kan.) 1880-current, 1884-04-11
Feminine Eancics.

rom those worn. during the winter.
with pointed front, short sides, and
square position plated back. The
most youthful-looking jerseys have
vest OF q contrasting color, made of
jersey cloth, such as red, cream, or
gray inside black wool jerseys,l and
their rolling collar and the buttons and
cuffs and position plaitings are of vel
vet. A great deal of silver braid and
metal bees and butterflies will be used
on the velvet collar and cuffs and vests
of such garments. Buttons are incon-
spicuous and small. as they are usually
hidden either by soft vest or by the
velvet ribbon bows.
Clover blossoms are among the most
popular OF the new spring flowers. In
their natural colors, white and q pink
ish purple, they are remarkably pretty,
and trim most effectively. They are
much used for trimming small bonnets
of delicate gray.
Strai ght back breadths are one of the
features that promise to find favor, but.
although this drapery is straight. it is
so stitfiy lined, is itself SO vOluminous
and is worn over so large a pad hustle
that q very bouhaut effect is given.
Three breadths of silk are thus arranged
in two triple box plaits, with an erect
heading ut the top, which is hooked
over the end of the basque.
The only universal feature of new
draperies is that the fitness begins at
the belt, not several inches below II, as its
design primarily is to enlarge the hips,
and secondarily to soften the severe out
lines of the whole costume; otherwise
this drapery may drop down far
below the knees, or else be very short,
or it may be punched up in a quite
short pouf in the back. with straight
box plating hanging below this pouf to
the foot of the skirt, or else the entire
hack breadths may hang straight from
belt to foot.
The newest jerseys are really short
position basques, and are tittI d by front
darts and side forms precisely as other
basques are, their only special feature
being the webbing of which they are
made, and the fact that they have no
lining and are cut so very small, that
they are easily stretched into a smooth,
close-ftting garment.
An important feature of the new cos
tune is the appearance of fullneSs and
width given to the lower skirt; this full
ness is confined to the outside, however,
as every French dress is made up on a
foundation skirt of silk, alpaca or
silesa, VIII oh remains very narrow and
closely gored, meaSur ng not II ore than
two and three-e ghths yards around its
lowest edge.
Painters, founces, sleeves and Mo-
liere vests are made of escurial net,
" fnrn1c a of fron fix y no
ton with lustrous silk or satin, and
which is more popular ut present than
ever before. An entire dress of escurial
net over satin makes a very handsome
toilet.
Polona'ses are straight princesse
dresses in the back, with basque front
that may be pointed. or belted with
velvet and clasp. or else in square
coat shape a Ia Louis Quatorze, with
square pockets piped with velvet on
each side, and full lace cravat that
reaches from the throat to the waist
line. Straight full box plated back
breadths are on some of these garments,
while others have the middle forms cut
off in a point on the tournure, and to
these, gathered IN great roll over the
pad, are added three straight breadths
Of silk that hang TO the end of the lower
skirt; these breadths are lined with
stiff lawn. are caught with tape under
meath sewed across half their length be-
low the waist, and are buttOned (in-
visibly) to the low skirt on each side
near the foot.
The long pa!etots or jack Is, with
pointed sides and short backs, once in
favor for outside wraps, are now re-
vived in the richest black materials,
such as gauzc velours, jetted net, and
spanish or thread lace over satin surah
Innings. Ii the dress is black, it is we'll,
at this intermediate season. to choose
black satin rhadames, or else mer-
veilicuv, and have jetted net for a soft
vest, and pulled skirt front with tucked
satin side panels and full, long black
drapery.
Gowns for visiting and afternoon
wear will be made of liscuit cashmere
or fine ribbed ottoman cloth, another
new material, combined with shot silk,
velvet or ottoman broche in various
shades of color, the most popular being
crimson, chaudron, sapphire blue or
rich myrtle green.
Every shade of fawn, from the palest
biscuit to deep plain brule, will be much
in vogue this spring. as also an uncom-
mon " mushroom" brown, dark choco-
late blended with red, and new tint of
bright, warm green
The spring hats that have made their
appearance are straws, the crowns OF
which. are generally very high and the
brims narrow, and the shades so strik-
ing as to be obtrusive, and to fall back
upon bonnets.
The back breadths of foundation skirts
still have two springs across them to
make them bouffant and the cushion OF
hair sewed to the belt in the back is the
hustle preferred to all others.
Black silks will be much worn this
summer. They will be tr mined with
lace in preference TO jet and passemen-
terie.
The newest and prettiest feather orna.
ments for the hair are in white. pale
nix and pale blue, and are powde ed
with gold or silver, and mounted as
aigrettes.
Velvet ribbons with satin on the
wrong side are quite a feature of trim
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