Morning journal and courier., 1884-10-25

much money he can dispose of; and he stakes
 his reputation as a traveller on the issue.
 | Here pause to copy an extract from Joannes'
 Diamond Guide: ttThe restaurant prices
 1 vary from seventy five centimes to two francs
 a dish; but for an ordinary dinner the ex-
 pense of four or five francs would be within
 | the bounds of strict necessity"
 1 No wonder such things as these scare a
 l large percentage of the more intelligent but l less wealthy people from venturing abroad. I have entered good, attractive restaurant l here and had substantial dinner for one 1 franc and twenty-five centimes. am sure ! the price would have been doubled in almost \ all the leading American cities. The artists, students and others who study economy tell me that they can live comfortably on two I francs day for board and lodging; or 150 I francs per month, including clothes and all perquisites Breakfast cafe-au-lait and bread only costs them four or five sous, be- 1 ing procured at the 'Fcremeries" or of the women who go about the streets with tin cans and vessels and sell from the public
 steps. It looks funny to see people sitting around anywhere to consume their scant breakfast. The same guide book has the consummate audacity or stupidity to state: SsIn no case can cabmen exact drink money from persons hiring. It is usu- al, it may be added, to give the cabman be- yond his fare from fifteen to twenty-five centimes for the drive, and from twenty-five to forty centimes per hour as pour boire. '" I suppose you are at liberty also to pay him franc for every tooth he has got in his head ora laaRaIeon- for every brat that he has at home, or any other novel bounty that you choose But really these fancy prices, and the exclusive prominence they are given in the guide books, exert 0 most baneful ln- fuence. You can get the same accommoda- l tions, perhaps better accommodations in some cases for from forty to sixty per cent. ;1, at do to be so toney. I hold that @ man who pays forty francs day for his room, exclusive of food service, porterage, etc., as some travel CTS do, belongs inside of a free lunatlc asy- ! 1uIn, and that his property should be cont1s- cated for the support of the asylum. For years the Schweizerhof held the supremacy l among the hotels at Lucerne and thither the 1 royalty focked. A few years ago the Ma 1 tional Hotel was put up; 1t was somewhat I inferior house, but it had the enterprise to establish prices higher than those of its i'm l posing neighbor. The royalty at once left | the Schweizerhof and focked to the Nation ! al, where they might fool away more money, even if they didn't enjoy so much comfort! 1 All sensible people must be disgusted by the ways of such fictitious aristocracy; but alas, | the travelling public have not always mono | poly of the good sense in the world. If you 1 really desire from one cause or another to | save your surplus dollars for something more worthy, never let it be known that you are Q { tourist, certainly not that you are an Ameri- can tourist. Then shun all the American | Hotels" FtGrande Bretagnes," "D'Angle- | terres, D E'Nationals' and hotels with similar l names. Shun them as you would shun the | Asiatic cholera. Don't even speak English 1 if you can talk some other language tolera- | bly we'll Why, some of these swell hotels | of Paris are actually set down on the list of l the attractions of the city to be visited and 1 inspected by the traveller, and need not ' Il II5 halls and thousand odd bedrooms. In the barber shops you may sink Il small fortune also if you wish; but the other hand you may step into side street and get shaved 1 for five sous in a scarcely less elegant estab- 1 lishment-hair cutting ten sous.
 The white muslin and lace caps of the wo- men are a striking feature, reminding the l traveller that after he gets across the briny he has not entirely left the white caps behind him.
 In some places where the streets came to- gether at sharp angles I noticed some flat iron blocks so slender that they actually looked precarious.
 1 observed more enterprise in half an hour | than had seen before since watching the 1 Golden Gate fade into nothingness. Hand \ bills strewed the sidewalks. Here was man parading the street with placard upon his i back reading, "Sufrages des femmes, and announcing meeting somewhere ill the in | terest of that cause. Here were photographs \ in the windows of that remarkable female Sarah Ber71hardt in the role of Lady Mac ! scriptions in the interest of the Panama ca- nal project. t'Veritable lait Suisse, read 1 on one of the numerous milk hand | carts I noticed with profound admiration ] the skill displayed in arranging these shop 1 windows of the French capital. The jewelry I displays were especially unique and tasteful. I Immense grottoes of gold trinkets, watches, a45 f1,a7 | ornaments set with precious stones ravished ! the eye, and fairly eompelled the feet to pause. There was window filled anly \ with spoon; but they were so cunningly made to interlock, and to repeat themselves so often by means of mirrors, that the effect was indescribably pretty.
 l From the Madeleine wandered to the l grand Place de Ia Concorde, where Marie ! Antoinette, Louis XVI and Phillipe Egalite were executed. Leaving it's obelisk, foun- ] tains and allegorical statues behind, I drifted down the celebrated Champs Elysees to the magnificent Arc de Triomph, caught a glimpse of that monster park the Bois de Boulogne in the distance, and then strayed down the Avenue Kleber to the superb palace of Trocadero, with it's fine gardens 1 facing the Seine. then crossed the Seine | to the vast Champs de Mars in front of the | National Military school, and followed the l left quay of the river, past the Hotel des In yalids, containing the Tomb of Napoleon, 1 to the Latin Quartier, where are congregated ! the great educational and fine art institutions ! of Paris Then looked over ruefully at the I Tuiieries the unimproved site where stood { the palace which was burned by the merci- less French commune in 1S71 and further | on, the illimitable Louvre with it's mex haustible wealth of art treasures which was ! ill duty bound to explore. By this time it 1 just began to dawn upon me that l was both l tired and hungry had walked I suppose | off fat l in the effort to get my bearings and survey the chief attractions of the city in the aggre- ! gate, as is my wont, before taking them up | slowly one by one. had indeed seen not a l little of external Paris in that initiative l walk, but these were all monuments which | have been too often described and pictured to | render more definite mention execusable. | The omnibus ride back to the hotel took me past the great Palace of Justice, the colos- l sal church of Notre Dame, and the monster Hotel de Ia Vile, which is said to eclipse l even it's predecessor of the same name which | fell prey to the commune.
 1 In nothing is Paris more eminent than in l its lavish employment of gas as an illumin- | ator. Go out upon the streets of 2 night =
 dismal rainy night if you please-and you
 1 would think that some grand celebration
 | was in progress. The gas posts, of which
 1 there are 8, ,000 in the city, are very close
 1 together, and the long lines of brilliant jets l
 the principal bou1evards are equipped with several burners, the light from which is inten- 1 sifed and concentrated by means of various ! devices The electric light was tried on | several avenues, but the plants have now been removed, and powerful circular gas
 1 lights of five or six jets substituted. At the
 \ principal street crossings the leading hotels
 I theaters alid other establishments solicitous 1 for patronageg have established illuminated
 I signs of gas jets announcing the way to their
 l enticing portals. At the Trocadero palace
 hundreds of gas flames surround long suc-
 cession of pools of flowing water, arranged on
 ! terraces. The great retail establishments
 seem to vie with each other in being the
 most extravagant in the. use of gas. Some
 l will have long rows of lights on the facade of
 1 the house. Others have monster chandeliers
 I in their vestibules. The cost of public light
 ing alone in Paris amounts to four and half
 millions of francs annually; and suppose
 1 this is not 8 tithe of the private consump-
 1 tion. There are. ten. gas works (under one
 management, distilling in the aggregate
 4,OO0 tons of coal per day It must |. be s re