The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1884-04-18
Tailor Dresses.

Cashmere serges of very light quality
and English manufacture are imported
for the tailor suits that will be used
through the spring for walking and
travelling dresses, and TOR the seaside
and mountain resorts during the sum-
mer. English checks of two shades of
a color, such as ecru with brown, light
gray with darker gray, or blue upon
blue, are chosen for the simplest of these
dresses, and there are others with bars
and slightly larger plaids of two con-
traSting colors, but the bold bio ks and
plaids worn in London are not vet pop
ular here For more dressy suits, such
as brides use for travelling, there are
plain cashmere serges and smooth habit
cloths in clear french gray. ecru, and
golden brown shades, while for the
summer hotels are ivory white and dull
blue Cheviots. In other cloths some
rough bourette threads are introduced,
and in the large stores frise or curled
fabrics are very largely imported. Tai
Tors retain the simple. shapely designs
for these dresses that have found favor
for the past three or four years, so that
q well-made suit of this kind will la t
many seasons without going out OF
style. They also use merely stitching
and a piping of mohair bra d for
trimming, and object to the elabo-
rate braiding and velvet accessories
adopted by modistes. The only change
noted in the tailor basque is that a vest
is added of the material. This is two
or three inches wide each side of the
front below the collar, and slopes
toward the waist to fit in with the first
dart. The basque is then slightly
Tapped over the sides of the vest, and
perhaps piped there with an edge OF
braid held by row of stitching. The
sides of the basque are slightly shorter.
and the bach is the '.frock style" like
that of mans coat. The collar may
be nigh standing band. or it may be
notched collar, also like that of mans
morning coat. There is now usually
small watch pocket slit high on the left
breast, with e'lich a short bar chain is
used, and thei are curved Sits on each
hip as pocket openings. The close
sleeves have only a single button and
hole at each wrist, and are piped with
braid instead of having cuffs. The out
side jacket to be worn with this basque
IL the street is sing le-breasted frock-
coat of medium length, cut away in
front to show two or three of the lower
buttons of the vest of the basque. This
coat and the basque have silk or satin
Innings. and all whalebones are avoided.
Flat small lasting buttons are used. or.
else the material is placed over small
wooden molds. Plated or tucked skirts
mounted on a silk foundation are pre-
ferTed for these dresses, and the over
skirt is attached 10 the same belt as the
lower skirt Either double box-plaitings
or the killed side plaitings are used
alike all around, beng sewed to the silk
foundation high up beneath the over
skirt. Another arrangement is a pla
cloth skirt with a six or ght inch side
plat NC at the foot, above which are
four tucks, each two inches wide.
finished on the lower edge by piping
of braid, and with three rows of stitch
ing across the top Of each tuck. The
newest apron over-skirts of cloth have
the front breadth cut square at the bot
tom, and a reverse of the cloth turned
over upon each side, and stitched there
The plating is then very high upon the
hips, and the back is held in two dou Die
box-plaits only slightly draped. One
novelty in tailor dresses is the use o
striped serge of two colors for the
skirt, with plain serge for the basque
and overskirt. The vest may also b,
striped. Such skir.s are made of hall |
inch stripes of blue with black, or
ecru with brown, and the basque and
drapery are either black or brown
The tucked and box-plaited bette,
waists will still be used by La lies wit
very slight figures, as they give an ap |
pearance of fullness.-Harper's Bazar