Richmond dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1884-1903, 1884-10-08
DOING THE CONTINENT.
She rain Of the Rh,se-Pen and ssk ror-
.pxs.r.>s--A Baud az Piiartms.

~, es,f Of the Rh,ne--ren aud ssk PoY
w.sss-prsscsss-A Basd az Piisrtms.
,ro.,..ccnar,ee Of she Richmond Dispa,ehI
scsfwEIxxRucF, FAILS OF F,.k i m'uSs'
How Glad we were to yet TO the Schwei.
serAcf on the 9th Of September. tired out
~ We were with travelling. just mter we
arrived. and rs we were regre'ting that II
WIS Too dark 10 see the far-fsmed Falls, 10
Z rocket. and then another, and then the
walls were nii aglow with colofed light.
The blue. foaming, dashing, spraying wa
fer managing over the rocks, then the green,
Then the pink. then the yellow, were really
very fascinating, and In spite Of our fatigue
we an became enthusiastic. -Four masses
Of water pour over the rocks, then they
unite into two streams, but we do not re-
slize that till tomorrow, when we cross
sthe bridge and stand close 10 the water.
Al present We are absorbed IN the rush
and the tumble aud the rear. Such roar !.
Not as great. indeed. n at Niagara. but
sfil great enough, aud resembling the
worst roar OF the traffic Of huge city.
Now the water lies IN darkness, but over
the brink fairy-like castle appears. first
one color and then another. Suddenly all is
dark again. and after afew minutes more OF
enthusiasm " e dlsperse for the night. Up be-
times in the morning. and on waking we
fancy ourselves back In New York; but
no, II Is only the rush Of the Rhine In is
fury. And how lovely II looks In the MORN
ing SUM- Such breadth OF pure white
foam, changing into blue-green water and
again into purple, and once more into
blue thai rivals southern sky. one Won
ders at such a combination.
o,n ,barrocI NTH mir hnfat ~
stands high up. aud we breakfast with eyes
turned 20 the view we have come 10 see.
We are waited on by girls in the pictu-
rescue dress Of their canton--black skirts
with pipings OF scarlet velvet bodices
trimmed with silver ornaments, and chains
and white lace. and long white sleeves,
and chemiseltCs-good-tcmpercd girls, and
quiet a. all the Swiss are. Opposite me At
fable drh6fe sits an English lord %. with his
lady on one side and friend on the other.
He grumblcs all the time and at every
thing--grumbies because there is thick
soup. and when they bring him thin grum-
bics at that. A luckless foOtstOol happens
10 be under the table; up ne gets. and pre-
parts 20 shy II the length Of the room; for
tunately waiter catches IL en- route. We
all admire n fiOweT-gardcn In the middle
Of the dining-room. Grumbler says IL Is a
nuisance and harbors insects, and the
servants cannot clean the room properly.
The rest OF us think the place scrupulously
clean. aud that u would be difficult 10 find
any dusty holes and corners. However, he
"a very polite and kind 10 his wife, and
takes his friends hearty laughs and Jokes
nj his grumbiing in very good part. There
Ia another extraordinary Enelishman here.
I saw some Germans looking at him with
the same sort OF wonder and curiosity with
which we looked at q Swiss costume new
10 us. He wore white linen hat. black
velvet coat, scarlet tie. light gray
trousers, pale yellow waistcoat. and cricket
shoes Of tan. colored leather, and white linen.
ON confident some foreigners not con-
versan: with the varieties Of English dress
thought him one Of the manifold attractions
of the SchwCizerhof. lie was handsome,
man, and very popular
with many Of the guests OF the hotel. All
sorts Of people come TO the Schweizerhoi.
One morning about seventy boys, ranging
from fourteen TO eighteen years Of age,
came and took luncheon. and sang some
charming part songs, but with les feeling
than the Germans usually sing. A dozen
young military officers came one evening,
and they went home singing their
people did not like. As q rule the |
Swiss are oblIging and very quiet. You
esrer ;loar rs Of laughter here as you do
In France and Germany. one day "ewen'
10 Schairhausen, one and ahsli Mite iro"
the Falls. II is an old Swabian town, and |
aid TO be less changed than any other.
There are some curious old frescoed houses
here. One. the Knights" had Marcus
rurtius plungiDg into the gap; Virtue,
Fortitude. Chastity, and other fgues, "a
we'll a. coats-oi-arms. and the motto, 81
speak for My Country" in Greek and
latin. Another house had figures
rom the Trojan war, Achilles, Aga
ncmnon, Paris Offering an Apple to
Helen, and Dido and Eneas at
period when love was "all IN ALL"
A third house had procession Of people
a wicked ruler. who was being
,arrled in an iron cage. in which it Is SAID
he was kept till starved to death. These
houses date back 400 years, but have re-
emily been touched up. The Citadel Mu-
10th stands towering aloft, and gives a fine
Jew Of the neighboring county. IL is
cached BY means Of an inclined plane to
uit the pride OF the lordly Swabians, who
isdained TO walk down to their horses.
nd had them brought up to their room
oors instead. l was quite fortunate in
eeing detachment Of pilgrims on their
eturn from visiting the shrine OF Einsie-
leln, famous for more than a thousand
ears. There were about 800 men and
women taking leave Of geo other men and
women who had come to branchng-oti
olnt. Such CAV. bright colors aud variety
dress Women with huge bows OF
road black ribbon on their heads; women
With high hats: women with flaps Of black
ace. Others with red handkerchicis on
heir heads. with blue ones, yell
ow ones, purple ones; dresses and
prons Of every conceivable color,
he latter almost large enough 10 he dress
kirts; then girls with their hair inter-
plated with white satin ribbon, and huge
buckle at the back OF The head, or with
long pins made Of silver, and stuck in with |
broad ends as large rs the top OF q Spanish
comb. The crowd looked very gay in the
sunshine. And such leaye-takingS and |
For this bright picture |
the background was made by the men, who /
looked wrCichedly squallid and miserable; |
for the poor clothes worn by most OF /
The women, which were redeemed (
by bits OF color, Were unreieyod |
In the men. Their faces seemed to eX-
press ignorance and stupidity, aud none Of |
The intelligence which We are accustomed to |
associate with the appearance Of member |
Of n republic. In spite Of that the scene !
was 40 new and attractive that waited for |
another set Of cars to see il repeated. l !
talked with some Of the people, aud they |
told me they had had good time aud eX-
peeted all sorts of blessings as a reward for |
their pilgrimage, which is now made very |
easy for them, as the railway goes TO
Einsiedeln. Most Of the pilgrims seemed
very much in earnest over the affair.
though IL Is painful 10 think that num-
hers Of them are paid 10 undertake the
Journey by the rich people, who are thus
enabled 10 reap the benefits without trou-
BILE. Though, as the pay is real and the
benefit possibly imaginary, they may in one
sense be said 10 have the best OF 1t. We
leave this charming spot tomorrow with
great regret. and after six-hours' Journey
expect 10 be in Stuttgart. VIAToR.