Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1884-10-04


out, as an indispensable feature of her ward
robe. Put it is not so common as formerly to
order n basque and separate walking jacket.
The basque takes the jacket form. and with or
without vest is complete for the street unless
the weather demands additional clothing tor
warmth, and then coat or garment longer
than jacket is added. This reduces the
number of pieces in tailor made suits. and frl-
fills the present condition of length in a street
garment. Suits tor young ladies form COM
bnations of plain with small figured or tuited
cloths. or the plain cloths are trimmed with
tinSeied braids, narrow clusters and wide.
alternating. The most fashionable cloth skirts
are made. as have previously stated. in alter
nate knife clustered and box plaits with short
drapery in front. caught up on one side and
passed through q ring or fastened apparently
with bronze dagger in miniature. The skirt
may be straight pleated or draped at the back
as preferred. When drapcry is employed it has
the aspect OF being attached to the back of the
bodice or basque. and is in fact carried up
nearly to the line of the waist. The drapery
of trained skirts. on the contrary, is pieated
into the edge OF the pointed bodice giving a
mOyonage effect. which is very becoming to
graceful figures and greatly popuarized since
its Introduction or rather revival a season or
two ago.
AUTUMN BoNNETs
are stupendous. They are like recent light
"operas" -all the ideas of the past several sea-
sons massed into the millinery achievements of
one. They are diversified, yet bear a family re-
semblance one to the other-that is to say the
crowns are high and the trimming is always
massed on the top and in front. The capote
still exists. but it is made with a square upright
crown. with two points almost as sharp as the
taSselled points of an Oxford cap. and the full
lace or puffed velvet front is filled in and
mounted with veined velvet leaves, fruit. flow
ers, burrs or thistles, and BOWS. rings or birds
enough foF a collection rather than the top of a
modest bonnet.
The small pointed poke is perhaps the most
striking OF the autumn styles and is the most
purely Partisan. The crown is full folded over
so as to form a sort of high. irregular puff and
fastened diagOnally with long bevelled or
fOur-sided pin, with nail head. This crown is
formed of Ottoman satin or velvet with bro
caded or embroidered figures. If of satin it is
covered with gold netting, and the brm with
gold embroidered lace. Over the brim which
rises to point. wave cocks, shaded in the pre-
dominant coiors. or wings. and in some cases a
foX's head mounted in silver. The strings are
OF velvet. long. not wide. and are knOtted not
bowed. on Gne side. Very long ends of velvet,
simply knOtted, are sometimes attached to the
back.
Cloth crowns appear embroidered by hand in
Jardinl"re cOl0rS. or 0rnamcnted with cresceHtS
or small figures in stamped leather, outlined
with colOred silk or gold or silver thread Lat
ticed crowns of leather, studded with small gold
beads. are made over ribbed satin with satin
brims covered with gold embroidered lace
The novelties are not cheap. SO being asked at
q popular house for bonnet with a cloth
crown. hand embroidered in small detached
figures, and with nothing unusually expensive
in the way of decoration.
The hats have high crowns and quantities of
feathers in the shape of wings. The speckled
merle feathers are used gray. and the sober
brown birds are in great request. The colOrs
in felt are dark or neutral, the smoke
shades being the most in demand The coach
man s. hat is in demand, and divides the hon
Ors with the West Point" a military looking
hat. which is high crowned also, but retreats
from the back and advances at the front. where
it is massed high with plumage crowned by an
ai@rette. The cOachmans hat has a broad gilt
ribbon round the crown, tuft Of feathers and
rosette of velvet fastened with a slender gold
whip, the cord of which is knotted to the ham
die The beige tntS in felt have taken the
place OF cream white and strawberry red, and
are tashionably united with brown and gold,
dark green and deep wine-cOlOred red A soft
beige tint is also one of the lOvelest of the
evening shades. as well as one of the most dis
tln@uished. and. toned up or toned down with
Skill by dressmaker who is an artist. possesses
far more character than the richest white toilet
which is. after all. expressive OF the beginning
and the end. not the active, eager middle life
even of women. An anxious face and there are
many of them, does not look well out of white
satin gown
THE COMING CLOAK.
Cloaks do not show so much extravaganza or
diversity in color this season as last Cloak
makers have been taught a lesson by having
many left on their hands, and this year restrict
them to black and dark colors Except in the
case of opera wraps), with Innings to match the
outside. contrast in the lining affects the
general tone of the costume and makes the
cloak less available. Economical women object
TO 1t on unitarian grounds. rich and cultivated
women because it opposes the quiet influence
which is now considered of the first Importance
in street dress.
The new cloaks are both short and long, and
there is decided novelty in the way of coat
that is intended to form part of winter cos
tune. and with which the dress must harmon
ize in color. These are now of the half-length
garments in the new styles-the Havelocks or
garments OF that kinda good thing for they
are heavy without being protective and are alb
solutely destitute of distinction, no matter how
rich the material. A visit to a great manufac-
turing house, recently. revealed one fact and
That IS how large proportion of the finest
cloaks are made in New York from designs
which originate here that are credited with
having been brought from Paris or Vienna This
house does not import single cloak. 1t EN-
ploys its own designer, who is, however, for
elgner. and he supplies at least dozen new
patterns tor the season. each one distinctive
and several of which are sure to possess the
cGchet of experienced Partisan taste. The pro-
prietor says he could not wait to import coaks;
ne must lead. not follow the market. Besides
which the difference in theprice between the i'm
ported and home made garment is so great that
he can sell (wholesale) ten times as many as he
formerly could of the high cost cloaks. and en-
able the dealer to make more sales and larger
profits. To the finest cOaks two tickets are at
tached. one foreign, one genuine, and the dealer
uses. that is leaves upon the garment which he
please5 The material the cut, the finish of
these clOaks equals the richest imported, and are
indeed. sold for genuine French importatiOns by
some of the best houses. The women who work
on fine cloaks are superior class of operators,
and earn good wages-frOm 81 to S15 weekly
Men are employed only to do the cutting, press
ing. and packing into boxes. About $4,000
cloaks are turned out of this one establishment
during the manufacturing season of three
months, the price OF which average (whOlesale)
SIS each. many of them selling at retail from
$50 to $50. When the fall season OF manufac-
turing is over the working force is put upon
costumes.
The long CLOAK of the season is sort of double
garment and very much like Miss Ellen Terrys
Tayorite style Of gown. at least in effect 1t is
long and straight, with an inverted pleat at the
back to give il funess and an inside or second
front, which is often of knife pleated silk or
satin. which extends the entire length and over
which the outside is held by clasps or cords and
buttons in paSsemeDterie. Some OF these coaks
are made Of brocaded velvet, some of terry vel
vet in large figures, upon satin or ottoman
grounds: soEe of velvet matelasse and some of
handsome ottoman silk or plain velvet When
rich fabrics are used with plain or ribbed sur
face they are enriched by huge pacques or
rings OF soft sat.n-tiIisiied and twisted cord OF