Morning journal and courier., 1883-09-21
EGs1aion Notes.

Oh, what chapter sad or Wothes
 Fashion Notes.
 [From the Brooklyn Union.l Tight sleeves are still much worn, but are tightly pulled in at the upper part of the shoulder. Collar and cuffs of velvet Of dark shades are worn upon pin-checked materials Garnet and blue are the fnvorite colors
 Golden brown is 8 seasonable and very pretty tone handsome brocaded biaok velvet walking suit was lined with silk of this color the deep panelled basque being slight ly turned up at the edges to show It, ana the collar being turned down and lined in reVers
 Children's dresses are to be gayer than ever this coming season. The brightest col ors will be worn but, as combination dress es are to be in fashion, they will be toned down by darker ones mixed with them. will be de Eigueur.
 Vatican wrappers are much worn, and are specially becoming to tall, slight figures. They are certainly extremely comfortable, and, when made up in handsome materials and daintily trimmed with ribbons and bows. can be worn for Q considerable part of the day at horne Vatican folds of handsome lace are worn now with black silk dresses upon small occasions.
 Tailor made dresses are more liked than ever. They it better generally than those made by ordinary dressmakers. Some Of those now on view are made severely plain Others, again, are cut in a variety of piotur- esque styles, with cut.away jackets and
 bright-colored under-waist coats, large pock- ct flaps, with bright, metal-shaped buttons, or others of oxidized silver or brass deep panelled skirts are draped with natty short tunics, piped with bright colored satin.
 Elegant evening toilets are now made up in laree-patterned satin brocades, the figures,
 which are in raised velvet, being exquisitely tinted. Bodice and train for such dress
 would be in white silk or satin or sometimes of a tone matching the background Of the
 brocade or of the color of the raised design.
 The train Is drawn aside, showing en tabller, and tho edges are either furnished with a oascaded trimming of colored Spanish Iace,
 rose plating of the plain satin or an immense feathery ruche, into which lace French flow CTS and leaves are set.
 Fashion prophets predict season of vel vets, brocatelles and rich and heavy silks. The leading brocades will not be satin, bnt velvet, satin and plush upon Ottoman grounds, or the figure Is 8 raised rep. Bro- caded velvets are exceedingly handsome this fall shaded and raised figures are the most popular; one half the figure in cut. the oth- CT half in uncut velvet, and the taVorlte oe- signs are the large varieties of flowers, olrds and very small fruits; graduated tones for the brightest to the faintest tints are very effective.
 For wooden goods the same authority gives the first choice to wool baptiste, which IS ' firm, fine cloth fifty inches in width, and which can be worn very comfortably ID the l intermediate season. Plush will be more usually devoted to out door wraps than to house dresses; they differ from those of last winter in having Q long deep frill, and the favorite colors arc black, brown and green upon a red brown surface. Cashmere Is as likely to be as popular as ever for oVer-dresS- es, drapery and trimmings of all kinds. It hangs we'll and is suitable for every figure. English hats with high crowns and broad 1 brims are very becoming and stylish and I fashionable. The way to trim them is with two bands of very tightly rolled black velvet, ! and handsome bird mounted upon wings, forming large ornament for the front or l left side Felt hats of these shapes are al- ready in all the leading stores and many Of l them are embroidered In bright colors, pea ! cock or Prince of Wales feathers being the ! favorite designs. Lace of all kinds, and fine ! cut steel ornaments will be worn with velvet and plush trimmings.
 The prettiest fall wraps are made up of the same material as the dresses or Of dark or black silk The shoulder seams are very short and the sleeves are rounded as in the 1 dolman, while it is laid on at the shoulder to l tiny plaits on the top of the arm nearly to ! the elbow. In some, coats sleeves are worn, I or the large sleeve hangs over tight inner one Braids of all kinds are to be used as
 
 preferred Cloth for outside garments is rough in texture, and favorite color is dark red An effective trimming for it IS gold ] metallic braid for & young girls coat, and braid of the same color for older young la dies.
 Velvet bonnets are to be very popular this coming winter, and dressy head wear will be of dark toned velYets with feather brims, or crowns of the same with loose brlms Of l plaited velvet. Many of the birds already on exhibition are very large, and if they are | to be considered as guides to what IS coming, | the bornets will certainly need to be of con- I siderable size. Shells and large beads also ! figure az ornaments for velvet and plush ! bonnets. Uncut velvet is to be used for bindings. facings, rosettes and folds. and \ where strings are worn they will be ribbed velvet on one side and plain upon the other. Christening cards are sent as usual in the names of the parents, inviting the recipient l to be present upon the occasion, the day and residence being below at the left side. There 1 is foreign custom Of announcing births by card but it is uot much in vogue here A pretty card of invitation for birthday has 8 colored border of leaves and grasses, in the l midst of which is butterfly bursting from it's chrysalis. There is no change in the style of invitation for afternoon teas, and those for archery, lawn tennis and yachting are traced symbollically in the character of their design as formerly. For chiIdren'a l gatherings small note sheet, headed by a colored design to signify the character of the | party, is used. In menu cards there is an immense variety, from the blank card to be filled up to those that are elaborate works oi art.
 1 Popular scarf pins are, it is said by wri- ter on the subject, the plain gold-headed oI ieweIed pins Pearls and diamonds are the jewels usually chosen for the purpose. The old fashioned shirt pin is seen no more, the fashionable vest and coat bsing so high but
 toned as to preclude any need of 1t. Double links are preferred for cuf-buttons now to the single ones This is an old style revi- l yins They are made in all sorts of new shapes and the most fashionable are richly
 mounted with gems. Grotesque Indian and Japanese devices in hammered gold have su- ! perseded the Japanese fan, horseshoe and
 four-leaved clover. Large stone settings are l seldom worn now very few sets of brooches and earrings are sold this season compared
 with the great sale they had several years ago. Large pins are more fashionable than 1 brooches, and the present style 1s to wear 1 earrings which do not match the pin unless 1 they are diamonds or some other precious stone.
 There Is very little demand today for chains and lockets. which few years ago | were considered indispensable to 8 toilet. Cameos are going out of style. but fine stones we'll cut are and always will be valua-
 ble. Coral and jet jewelry, too, are fast dis appearing. A taste TOT cOlofeu stoues AS ue- l valopipg. The beautiful tourmalins from Brazil which come in all colors, are most l wern They are cheaper than the chryso- l beryI, that is next to the sapphire in blue
 stones. It's composition is very like that Of
 the catseye, and it, too, has various shades of color The Alexandrites are the most beautiful of these stones. They come from CeyIon and present the phenomenon Of nav ing two shades of color-are olive green by day and columbine red at night. The eme- raid is regaining it's old time popularity, and l tbe superstition which has always clung to the opal is gradually being removed, and the sale of this delicate and beautiful gem is in creasine, Rubies and diamonds still hold
 their popularity, and pearls are rapidly in creasinp in value and repute.
 ! Fashions in stationery vary good deal :; 1 for wedding invitations medium sized pure l white note paper is most employed, with the lettering in full shaded, plain script The names and invitations are carried in the body ! of the invitation, while the time and place of | reception, if any, are embraced in 8 separate
 card. For private weddings, cards are used | in advance containing an announcement of the fact and stating future residence and re- ception days. For weddings, where the cere- nnony is intended to be witnessed only by the I a af a faTniiv a a.