Morning journal and courier., 1883-07-11
For Country Wear.

For Country Wear.
 Latest Novelties in Summer Watering Place ToIlets-Straw Embroidered LRces-Som ethIng About ROnnets, Hats
 and Veils-Neyv Laces and Their Uses
 General Gossip Abort Trif1es.
 [From the Boston AdvertiserJ
 A decided novelty for the season is the in-
 troduction of straw-embroidered tulle for
 evening dresses These may be either of
 black or white, and the surface of the tulle il covered with dots of the straw. The founces are of figured lace, all the designs
 being outlined in fine Straw. A dress of this kind of black tulle was made over e black
 lustreless silk The short, round skirt was of the silk, with two founces of straw-em-
 broidered lace; the long, full draperied
 oyerskiIt was of the dotted lace. edged with a narrower lace than that of the houncese but carrying the same design; this narrow lace was also used on the basque, finishing it on the edge forming a standing frill about the pointed throat, and edging the elbow fih place by loops and ends of black and .straw-colored Ottoman ribbon. The effect was exceedingly pretty. There was close small lace bonnet to accompany it, made of the dotted lace like the dress. and on one side was @ cluster of soft curling straw-col- -ored ostrich tips Altogether the effect was daintiness itself. White tulle is similarly
 
 the black is suitable for their mammas. There is also a fancy for trimming white camel hair dresses that are to be worn at the seaside with parallel rows of straw braid The braid is about an eighth of an inch in width, and there are from eight to ten rows of it above the hem on the kilt skirt, down the back of the Norfolk jacket, on the col lar, belts and cuffs, while the turned-up edge of the low dress overskirt is almost entirely covered with it. The straw braid is very eff fective, and costumes made after this fashion are at once novel and pretty. The ightest and most comfortable bonnets for summer wear as well as the most becoming, are of crepe, lace and tulle. The silk China crepe is very much used for dressing bonnets in the soft pale seasonable tints, such as ivory, rose pink pale blue and light yellow. These bonnets may be made with either smooth or shirred crowns, and the brims are composed of double rows of flowers, without foliage. A gathered lace or silk embroidery passes about the crown and falls over this floral brim. The oldest fancy of the season is the skeleton bonnet. This is made of few gilt wires, going forward from some round rows of wire that form the crown, and every trace of a foundation is omitted. Two rows of shell or amber beads are on the front, form ing the brim, and there are two rows as center in the crown. The only trimming is breadth of French crepe in the dull India
 blue or red, which is interwoven through the
 wires across the top of the crown, where it if fastened by shell pin shaped like a hair pin, and the ends. hanging long on each side, serve as strings. The daintiest bonnets for young ladies are the pointed -brimrled pokes and small capotes, made of many rows of white lace, crimped, pleated or gathered, either Valeneiennes or Oriental lace being used These bonnets are just the thing for midsummer .fetes or wedding festivities. The crown of bonnet of this kind is composed of a piece of lace gathered over wires and the brina has puff of the same on it's edge all the space between is covered with narrow crimped frills of lace falling forward. Some simes row of gilt lace is placed to fall over the puff of the brim, or there 7is marrow pleating of red velvet there to give character to the bonnet. and the strings are of narrow red velvet ribbon. Valenciennes pokes are 1 made for young ladies to wear with any | color of dresses. They are of medium size, with the brim pointed or turned away from | the face, and a bow of velvet ribbon or 8 | little bunch of flowers is put inside the brim Gilt thistle, soft pink roses, or blu 1 cites are clustered on the left side, and there | are no strings. There is always pleating of | lace inside the brim. Sometimes embroidery is puffed across the crown, and Alencon lace | is made into jabots to cover the brim. Black lace bonnets are made mostly from French | thread, the real Chantilly or Lyons tulle. They follow quite closely the designs of the white bonnets. A new Llama lace of very fine quality is also being used for black bon nets This has fine meshes like the Chantil- ly, with handsome figures. It is arranged across the crown in gathered rows over a transparent frame, or else over tulle laid on gold wires, and on the brim there is an edge of fine gold beads strung on wire. Tho trimmings for these bonnets are richly col ored tulips of velvet or satin with an aigrette | in the centre scabiense blossoms or large ar | temesias. There is no end to the odd whims | and queer caprices of fashion, and the very | latest notion is to use real pines and cones | for the trimming of lace bonnets. They are | genuine, and their color is preserved while 1 undergoing some process which keeps them from decaying. They are laid as wreath | around the crowns of small capotes, made of white lace on gilt frames The effect of the dark green on the white is cool and pretty, | and is sometimes further heightened by add ing large white flowers such as dogwood blos- sons, ox-eyed daisies or horse chestnuts. The white lace is pinned on the gilt lining in an easy careless way, with large pins of ham, mered gilt, and the crown is covered by hor- izontal rows of pleated lace, or by two lengthwise barb like pieces This fine trim ming will also be used on Leghorn flats, with white null scarfs.
 It is quite usual for the black bonnets to have something gilt about them in the way of wire lace thistles, atgrettes or cord, the cord edging turreted squares of black satin that are put under the brim and below the crown Buckles of Rhine pebbles and gold headed pins are also used in these bonnets, and the strings may be either of narrow ribbon or a wide lace barbe There is also a present fancy for colored tulle bonnets. Dark green tulle, so dark that it is almost black, and dark red are very much used.
 Large Leghorn flats still continue the fla vorite garden hats, but they are less pulled out of shape Most of them droop grace fully at the back and front, in shepherdess oIkI nT1cyIl n by gold wire near the brim in Gainsbor. ough Gold lace in the turban patterns is inside the brim next to the wire, and further back is pleated lace, or puff of white net or null. White ostrich plumes are laid about the crown of some of these hats, constituting the entire trimmings; others have a large bow of white net, wrought with gilt, on the front, which holds the ends of demi-wreath of flowers or grasses
 Some of the ladies of fashion are trying very hard to bring again into use the bor- dered face veiIs which were so much in the fashion dozen or so of years ago. They come both in white and black lace, shaped somewhat like fichu, with two ends that tie behind the crown, while the centre is deeply curved, and is passed over the front of the bonnet and allowed to drop below the chin.
 The straw bonnets gre marvelously pretty, and they need not be so very expensive. The favorite shape for straw bonnet is 8 small capote with round crown, the brim formed by a soft puff of velvet. To make these small straw bonnets still more dressy, sin gle or double wreath of fiat and small pink hedge roses, yellow rosebuds, arbutus or ap pie blossoms, Glacs, carnations, b1uettes, vio lets, daisies, or pink clover heads is placed outside the entire edge of the bonnet, and white lace or embroidery is gathered scantily behind it and made to fall over the edgs The velvet puff softens the brim next to the face, and the single pair of narrow velvet ribbon strings cross the crown quite low down, being held on each side by small Rhine stone ornament or buckle. Pretty colored bonnets are made of pale blue or pink satin surah, with embroidery, lace and two colors of ribbon for its trimming. The favorite lace is the Pompadour, with raised petals and leaves of muslin, and this is very effective, while for embroidery the Irish point takes precedence of anything else. These bonnets are mostly in the poke shape, and almost any ingenious young lady, who possesses taste as well as ingenuity, can make one for herself at very little expense Among the favorite faces for the neck and sleeves of dresses are the Valenciennes, Oriental, Moor esque, Mechlin, and the open patterns of the Bruges lace these are pleated or gathered into frills.
 The London Post says M De Lesseps has made satisfactory arrangement with the