The Arkansaw traveler., 1883-03-31
over dark or light satin moire or plain


 ders ruched and gathered trimmings sewed to different-colored fabrics falling from the inside of the skirt. A black grenadine dress with cachemire designs has these ruchings placed against piece of surah in old gold, ruby, or blue. ac- cording 10 the predominating shade of the bows on the dress. The ruehings are often against flat white lace.
 A charming indoor dress for spring wear is of light blue yelling. The skirt is lined with silk and trimmed with broad bands of ruby colored velvet. Two bands of this velvet are taken around the skirt and up the left side. leaving space be- tween. On the lower border. comirg from under the skirt, IS another band oi velvet. The unique is draped in an tique style. Ii consists of an apron and pufiing. the latter belonging to the prin- cess back. The wais, opens in shawl shape over plaited India muslin gu:mpe- It buttons in the back. and is trimmed with a piAited drapery. which is taken down either sidc of the :. guimpe in shawl shade. ard terminates in shrred point. The princess back i. iraped in pn.fs. The large yelling collar IS bias, and trimmed with two rows of velvet. Around the small ruff in the neck Is a band of velvet, closing by means of steel buckle. Two similar bands are below, over the guiinpc, but in wider velvet. The half-long sleeves are finished with two rows of velvet. Two broad bands of ribbon velvet come from the seams under the arm. and are fastened in font, where they fall in long ends. A waiking-costume for spring wear Is of myrtle-grecn faille and limou- sine. The skirt Is of plaited faille. The unique consists of a redingoie and apron of light striped limousine. The redingo,e buttons as far as the waist, snd then opens near the hips. 10 show the lower part of q velvet vest. The long side piece of he redinsote Is open on the up- per part. and through this the ends of the drape:y are drawn, thus forming a shawl point in front. and in the side of the back kind of putting terminating in I pointed end. Over this slit Is a Ievcrs. trimmed with two buttons. The outings are stitched down here and there. ThG " aeobin collar Is of bias velvet. Ths, sleeves are ugh; fitting. The Engi!sf hat. worn with this suit. IS of soft fclts with Il rather small brin. turning over. The velvet drapery around the crown is finished on the side with silver buckle
 Tournures are now generally adopted with all styles of dress. They increase in size from day to day. are elegantly made. and are often vc:y costly. Many of them form a complete satin skir; in front. trim med on the lower pant so as ,n replace d petticoat. Some busiles are oi black satin trimmed with three bias fiounees bor- dered with fine wooden guipure lace. This, with the addition Of small flannel skirt. is all that Is required to be worn under the dress, provided there is added balSveuse with two or three rows of ruching or plait- ing. Tournurcs give style 10 the figure by the graceful curve they form. making the w4is; seem smaller and also dimin- ishing the size of the hips. This is, how eeeT not the ease in regard 10 very stou; women. for, unfortunately, there are no means oi materially improving such fig ures. The souwaroff" cape and mol dav garment can be worn by moder- a,ely stout women. but pelerines and or dnary "douilleueS should only be adopted for shgh, forms, with well-shaped neeks and shoulders. In consequence of this, young girls will continue to wear capes and douillettes through the spring and summer months. 4 charm ing outer garment of this kind Is of ma telot blue cachcmire shirred down the front and around the neck and waist. The small side piece Is indicated in front by gore. Down the back Is shrring sim liar ,o the tfon,. The garmen, IS lined with red "surah glace. Around the vast Is d rcd sat n ribbon belt. which is taken in with the shirrs in the back and lied III front near the lief; hip in long loops and ends. The sleeves are high on the shoulders and gathered full on the top of the arm. For spring wear this garment will be of amazon cloth or sicilienne, lined with fine quality of silk in a contrasting color. The Louis XVI faded tints are preferred for these Innings. A new fabric has just been brought out. which is as soft as crepe de chine and as ligh, as sufah. l; will serve for elegant costumes IS well as for these eloaks.
 Corse,s are very long and quite low back and front, So as not to interfere with the low neck waists Corsets for day wear are of black or seal-colored satin trimmed with chaniiily or valenciennes lace. For eyenin, toilets there are white satin corscts trimmed with lace ruchings. Eht OA S%ttfsi uSCtl ltE SQfSSkS. bat black and whi;e are most generally worn.
 Nalencienne lace is extensively utilized for undergarments. Light surah and satin petticoa;s have trimm ngs ef three rows of black or white lace.
 Silk stockings for day use are in the color of the suit. Ecru silk hose are the only kind worn with all evening toilets. When the stockings match the dress the corners are embroidered with silk. The favorite shoe worn a, present is open over the top of the foot and tied on the instep. On the large bows trimming the shoes are two butterfly wings of plai,ed mate rial.
 The designs for fancy iewe'ry are swords, very large cimeiers, lances, horse-shoes and birds. As few women care to have their diamonds frequently mounted, thes fancy articles are yeY generally resorted