Northern tribune. [volume] (Cheboygan, Mich.) 1875-1885, 1883-06-30

which are three deep tuckS, Tor all ma
terials, no matter how rich, are now
folded into tucks; across the front and
sides are two satin plaitings bordered
with passementerie or with
band of brocaded ottoman silk, and
above these is full wrinkled drapery
of breadth of the satin drawn across
with its edges concealed. For such
skirts plain black silk Jersey will
make stylish corsage, and may be
completed by notched collar of the
same, or a collar and cuffs of jet, small
jet buttons, and sash bow, or else a
regular sash of satin ribbon that is wa
tered on the wrong side; for a still more
dressy suit this Jersey may be beaded
all over and trimmed with lace frills and
rich fringe of large jets and chenille in
the way described last week. Small
buttons, either in bullet or coin shape,
of plain crocheted silk, or else the berry
buttons covered with small beads, re-
main in favor for all such dresses. An
other feature that accommodates itself
to both the slender and the stout is the
plastron or vest of the basque; for thin
chests there is Breton plastron set in
of shirred and plated satin merveilleux
middle-with two standing frills around
the neck; there may be passamentere
ornaments on each side of this, or else
the silk of the basque is cut away from
the lining to form two bold curves on
each side and below, and its edges are
finished with a piping fold or thick cord
and made to fall on the plastron. If the
whole waist is too slight, there is a
plated and shirred vest instead of
plastron, and this vest falls in puff
below the waist line. For plump round
figures the silk or satin basque may be as
plain in front as Jersey, though with the
position plating for finishing the back,
and the trimming is flat passementerie,
or else smooth vest of netted jet.
The panelled skirts and those with
loose long plaits are much used for
stout figures, and there are now double
plated fOunces on each side to form
side panels, while the front breadth has
only few loose plaits its entire length.
The demi-polonaise with basque front
and princesse back is liked with the
skirts just described, and a princesse
effect is now given to the back of plain
round basques by hooking the drapery
VI tnC ONCl-ohlp uPOh thO Civ
side forms few inches below the waist.
The plainest of the dresses described
above are seen on bright days on the
Fifth Avenue or at church, with very
simple jacket of black or blue cloth in
tailor style or in Jersey shape, or else
with a short mantle of the silk or of
camel's-hair scarcely more than scarf
in depth, enriched by full plaitings of
French lace, with loops of ribbon or
pendent jet ornaments amid the lace.
The bonnet with these is also very SIM
pie; if worn by a young lady, it is
small round-crown capote of lustrous
black, cream white or colored straw,
with velvet puff on all its edges, and
cluster or full wreath of small and
light-colored flowers, usually of cream
white or pinkish-white tiny blossoms in
preference to the larger daisies or arte-
misias; close English turbans are also
appropriate with velvet on the brim,
and either small tips or else flowers for
trimming. For older ladies the bonnet
is of similar shape, but with fuller,
higher velvet putting, and an aigrette,
or darker and larger flowers, with some
times beaded or embroidered crown,
and richly-colOred cashmere lace. The
neck is plainly dressed, with the merest
rim visible of plated lisse or lace, or q
linen cOllar.-Harper's Bazaar.