The Arkansaw traveler., 1883-03-31
FASHIONS NEW TOILET.
Costumes and Materials for the Spring
 Months.
New York Times.

saison" wear combine plain cloth with plain velvet. The color most favored at present is admiral blue. the use of which has been abandoned for some time in favor of seal and fine green. A suit of this kind is of blue velvet and cloth. The i border of the cloth dress IS cut in squares and lined with navy blue satin. IL falls over a velvet fiounce arranged in large, full plaits. The squares are only GU, on i the front and sides of the cloth skirt. i The plain back falls in natural plaits against the velvet fieunce. The pointed waist has square ends which turn back and form half redingote. They are only stitched around and joined by piece of blue satin ribbon. The square pockets have two pieces of ribbon com i ing from the corners. From this poin; 1 they are taken in ful loops with ends and fastened to the point on the waist. The velves, yes, forms fringed points over the waist. IL has small blue jet buttons on either side. These buttons in ..posti lon du I.ongumeau. or "muletier cas,ilian
 style will enliven the spring waists. The long. tigh;-fi,iing sleeves have small, round velvet cuffs.
 All kinds of embroidery on various tissues are always among the novelties. "Limousines" have woolen embroidery i in several shades. consisting of designs i in punches of large macaroons and large scallops for bordeings. Cachem:res l have broad galloon bands of Prussian or Egyptian work in the richest and most l peculiar coloring. Silk gauze and .mousselines Ge laine" have designs in many coIors. embroidered in the mos, artistic manner. These materials are very pretty for evening dresses with mar row ribbons combined in all the oolors of the designs. A new material for walking suits lsof light cloth embroidered with handsome applique of palm leaves in shaded plush. A narrow sou
 taehe "cachemire' trimming Is around l the borders of the leaves Inis rage for embroidery also extends 10 ohiliren's s clothes A kind of work most suitable for this purpose is made as follows: Over the CaChcmIre to be embroidered Is can as. and when the work. whether ofwool, cotton. or silk. Is completed. the threads of the canvas are drawn. This makes a beautiful trimming. The colors must be bright ard cont as,ing. such as red on I >C, on biege. For white two or three colors may be employed. A garland of this work around the skirt, and small de- sign on the collar and cuffs Is all the trimming necessary for this purpose. De signs of em5foiieY are in course Of making. such as animals heads, flowers. and fruit, arranged in punches and gar lands to applique against plain fabrics. i This arrangement k very economical. as waist, jacket. or redingote may thus be of plain goods, and the embroidery sew ed on according to fancy. This trim ming may also serve for gloves. shoes, sun-shzdes, stockings. and bonnets. as il Is odd and pretty. All kinds of original designs will be made for this purpose, in addition to flowers and birds.
 Plain cloth costumes have bands of velvet in light sha .es falling among the plai,s. \ pcrvinSa CT ''huzzard blue cloth or eaehcmirc cut is trimmed with seven bands of navy blue velvet. which i tcrnInatc Ii: points and fall ovcr the plai;ed tloances. The latter are against an alpacca undersklri. The velvet point. fall below the wooden plats. aud are lined with some rather stiff fabric. French women wear variety of wooden suits for ordinary visiting purposes, and for shopping they particularly favor the plain English styles. Small basquss, with .bordc cut in squares are still used. but not as much as they have been. \ variety of jackets and halt-long casaques will be made. The latter button diagonally over the breast. ind are trimmed with colored lace. Among the eccentric styles are "Go5clin's" dresses. of hand some, soft wooden goods. with designs in lattice work. These dresses are trimmed with reddish lace. and are in all colorS, but cream. moss, wine. old green and pink predomnaie.
 ] Among the novelties in toilets suitable for wear at wedding ceremonies are dresses of royal satin. brocadcd with punches of flowers in old shades. Young girls may employ for this purpose printed pompadour satins over suTah or gaze creepe" skirts One of these toilets has q rose colored fompadour satin skirt, covered with moss roSebuds and daisies
 l. is raised on the sides by means of cording. with three long tassels. X light panu:er falls from under the long point of the waist. l. Is arranged in far;hingale style, and fastened 10 the point in the back of the waist under a large roseite. The very narrow train i Is raised on the belt under the rosette in waved loops, formed by the material being firmly sewed underneath 10 the stiff muslin undcr,rain. The sides of the train are often bordered with lace or ruching. The train of this dress is. how ever, taken on the sides under she gaze outings of the skirt. The style of trimming is more youthful than .ace or ruohing. The gauge waist is lined with satin. The neck is high in the back, and opens in an oval in front.
 Evening suits continue to be of white or pink yelling and O; bengaline, which is more elegan, than yelling. but does not retract from the formers l popularity. Nothing is so pretty for small evening entertainments as white yelling toilets. They may be simple with only a draped scarf of the same goods, or quite elegant with pannier of embroidered "breton" tulle. raised