The Portland daily press., 1883-08-03


or an embroidered chemisette may replace
the pastron; but where lace or very thin
embroidered fabrics are used they must be
placed over some non-transparent material,
as the contrary would be wholly bad taste
for outdoor wear. For indoor the lace OF
muslin alone may be used or not, according
to the fancy aud style of the wearer.
Basques of white or tinted brocade with
crenelated edges, are still greatly in favor,
especially with the French modistes, as they
admit of great variety of style. Some have
a fall of lace or fan killing set between
and underneath each of the tabs. Some are
corded on the edges, and lined with con-
trasting color, or are embroidered or hand
painted on each block or point. The Joan
of Arc corsage Is also favorite, opening at
the side, and lacing with silk cords. This
and the corslet, faced under the arms, will
be much worn during the warm weather,
accompanied by guimpe OF oriental gauze
or ehemisette made of finest white muslin,
embroidered in the colors of the dress.
White nuns yelling dresses, trimmed with
wide imitation Valenciennes lace in the new
designs, cream-tinted and gathered very full,
are made up with skirt and sash, or scarfs
of white MORE. Worth has revived what he
calls ''grandes centuries" which are very
wide sashes arranged in various ways, either
around the hips or the waist line, but with
short, broad loops and ends that have the Ell
feet sought of increasing the bonffant tour
nure
Bonnets of straw fringe are the novelty for
the late summer The entire bonnet is
made of row after row of narrow, colored
fringe of fine straw with uncut edges, the
loops being woven into slight braid for
heading, and Tapped to conceal all but the
fluffy fringe. These bonnets come in laven-
a .Altx l. In Ioha o,,A -,
the small capote shape with a round cap
crown. One, in special, of lavender fringe,
has thick row of velvet violets all along its
edges, cluster of violet-coored ostrich tips,
and narrow strings of lavender and violet
ribbon. The straw braids that represent
striped grass are liked equally well for small
bonnets and for the large straw hats that are
worn in the country. The basket bonnets
represent great meshes braided together, and
one of the caprices is to trim these with
punches of wheat or of straw, some of which
is ripe, and the remainder partly green.
There is return to vests and cutaway
jackets in the tailor-made suits OF serge, che
yiot, flannel or cloth made for travelling and
mountain dresses. The vest may match the
jacket or be of contrasting color, red cash
mere vests being much used with blue,
green or brown dresses; white pque vests
are also used, and are liked for their appear
ance of GOODNESS. Kid and chamois skin
vests are made by London tailors, while
those seen here are of russell leather, bronze
or natural alligator skin. The leather vests
are very narrow, and are sometimes merely
sham vests set like border ON the front of
the jacket, but those of cashmere and pique
are genuine in shape, being sewed to the
shoulder and under-arm seams of the Jacket.
The skirt may be laid in lengthwise pleats
from top to bottom, and be entirely without
drapery of overskirt but if the wearer is tall
and slight, a short tablier drapery is needed to
enlarge the hips. Clear dark blue, brown
and gray are the colors most seen in these
wool travelling dresses, and they are often
accompanied by close turban, made of the
dress goods, laid in many folds and without
other thinning.
Tasteful autumn dresses may be made of
the pretty chine silks that rarely cost over a
dollar yard. The trimming is full pinked
ruches of the chine silk, with facings, collar
and cuffs of dark velvet, garnet, sapphire or
ruby, in these pale rose, light blue, shadowy
gray or brown silks. The dress should be
made simply. with gored skirt, very bun
chy oVerskirt, and short basque of the
plainest shape. Instead of the bristling
rnches, softer looking founces are also made
of this silk; they are scantily gathered. deep
ly Tapped, and are cut out on the lower
S0SOo ~ 4Sol bOllltS tBdb dlC diSu plHktu Of
notched. The basque is cut out In the
tongue-like sharp scallops that Worth
likes SO mnch, and uses to such
an extent; these are on the lower edge.
and also around the Pompadour square neck,
reaching forward on !. full plastron of satin,
that fills the open square, and is gathered al
the top to form two standing frills that pass
around the neck. A handsome style of elab-
crate morning dress for watering place wear
is robe in princesse form, made of large
patterned brocade of satin or silk, in both
full and dark colors. The bodice is cut
square at the throat, and finished with a
high Medici collar made of the brocade, and
finished inside with full pleated traise OF
rich lace. The ends of the collar taper to a
point in front, fastening to the sides of the
open square. The sleeves are high and full
on the shoulder. A model of this style, de-
signed by Worth, is composed of pale pink
summer satin, shot with gold and brocaded
with clusters of dark red hedge roses with
golden heads. Around the foot of the demi-
train is an immense ruche made of pink,
dark red and gold-colored silk fringed on
the edges and pleated very full. The front
of the dress is of pale pink surah, trimmed
with three deep ruffies of dark red Spanish
lace, the designs outlined with gold thread.
The brocade collar is lined with dark red
surah, and the half-long sleeves are finished
with double frills of the lace.