Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-03-31

the custom. The majority conveniently wore
their black as usual. omitted, perhaps, some of
their adOrnments, but made no other change
practice indeed which some still follow who
have more sense than money or time to expend
on the details of their attire. 1t is a fact, how
ever that in exclusive circles the very strictest
regard is just now paid to the early depth
and later gradatiOns Of mourning toilets. The
widows bonnet is small capote of double
English Grape the crown plated or composed
of cords laid closely together; the small brim OF
two little pufings, beyond which is plating of
Grape composed Of three strands. the width of
those used in the crown, braided loosely to-
gether This Is all The bonnet is small; all
double Grape and entirely free from ornament
or trimming of any kind. Later, say at the end
of six months row or more OF dull beads and
series of three dull bead ornaments. the beads
the size of peas, and devoid of luster, may be
placed down one side Of the brim. Later STILL
at the end of twelve months, Grape may be dis
continued, and arnure silk substituted and the
dull bead ornaments INDUCED in more prOfuse-
". the crown perhaps embroidered with them.
Jet. however, is not worn by q widow during
the 1irst two years after her husband death nor
any lace or jewels, except she happens to have
single pearls for earrings or solitaire diamonds
in which the setting is not visible.
Her first dress is fine Henrietta CLOTH with
front or panels or deep border and close paniers
OF Grape The bodice is finished with a collar,
which also forms vest of Grape. Sometimes
in this way. but some modstes consider that
folds are out Of place until three months have
elapsed, and some use numerous round cords
trimmed upon the cloth as brads, and these
make very neat finish. Grape is not discOn-
tinucd until the end of twelve months nor
until that time can any white interior plaitings
be used for neck or wrist. but Grape at the
throat is into,erabe in summer. and black Grape
lsse delnsion. Soft sewing silk net
with dull finish is therefore used
For int ola - r.
second year white fine patings of
India muslin. During the second summer also
ladies can enjoy the luxury o black canton
Grape and may use the embroidery material for
trimming. They may also use ornaments to
some extent, if they are dull, and not gold or in
c0l0rs, or otherwise of a snowy character. A
necklace OF dull antique silver coins would be
considered less out of place with second year
mourning garb. particularly if it had some SEN
tlment connecting it with the departed, than O
necklace of black. shining jet beads. that had
been bought in common store, and had no
associations to soften their Ostentatious vulgar
ity.
Probably widows console themselves for the
severity OF their discipline in public by re-
mova of little Of the torture in private; other
wise the American "relict" and the charred re-
mainder of the male Hndoo would have much
in common.
JUST FANCY!
White toilets are mere masses Of embroidery.
The newest satines are combinations Of april
cot, red raspberry, strawberry, or grey tints,
plain tints with shaded roses, palm leaves or
dubious blossoms on tinted ground matching
the plain material
Small buttons are used, but speckled in colors
to match fabrics.
New spring pelisses are made of mixtures Of
silk and wool in Indian or Persian patterns. and
in Oriental blending of cOlors. They are lined
with apricot, strawberry, or olive twillcd silk,
and finished with bows of wide satin ribbon.
Long lace mitts are finished with soft full
feathered-out ruchings. matching the shades in
the dress or its trimmings
All the shades of grey will be fashionably
worn this spring and some very pretty grey
chamberys have been made up and trimmed
with SaxOny lace and clustering loops of grey
and pink satin ribbon.
Gathered black lace clOaks shirred and
trimmed with Barcelona lace and wide satin
bows are among the most distinguished summer
wraps.
Very wide ribbons brocaded with single huge
roses are among the impOrtatiOns. The ques-
ton is what can be done with them.
Tea cOlored ginghams checked in a darker
shade and bordered with the same in a Greek
pattern are among the novelties in washing
fabrics.
Embroidered nuns yelling is the craze for
young ladies who want a dress that is lust too
lovely for ANYTHING JENNY JUNE.