The Portland daily press., 1883-02-21
New York Fashions.
[Harper's Bazaar.

are ponnets oI lustrouS Satln DralQS, suD-
stantial-looking Milan straws, and the fine
English split straws. These braids are all
shown in their natural cream white tints,
but the great bulk of the importations is col
ored straw bonnets, with a preference for
red and brown shades, such as raspberry
and the crushed strawberry red, pale leather
color and the darker Havana or tobacco
browns. Gold, silver, and bronze braids
| are again used for entire bonnets, and there
! are fancy straws of cream and leather colors
wrought with threads or braids of gilt or
silver. The osier bonnets made of rubber
tubing and of coarse braid, introduced last
summer, are again seen. Chip bonnets are
not largely imported, but are always worn
by those who must have bonnets of very
light weight.
The new shapes are principally pokes of
medium size, not nearly SO large as those
worn last summer, and are very quantity
shaped with "tip-tilted" brims rolled far
back toward the crown, or else folded or
pointed on the edge OF the brm like the
fish-wife bonnets, or perhaps they poke
downward in front, while others have the
brim and top of the crown on the same lev
el Indeed, these straight tops are seen on
many of the trimmed bonnets, as the garni
ture is now massed directly on top, and all
the low space in front of the crown is filled
in with flowers or the new cockscomb bows.
or else many loops of velvet ribbon are clus-
tered there. The small close bonnets meant
Tor church and visiting in the city are larger
than the fiat Alsacian bonuets worn during
the winter They are longer pointed on the
sides, and have small crowns without the
curtain bands lately worn. In MANY cases
the fronts OF bonnets b we full frills of straw
or of lace, or Of the velvet or ottoman silk
used for the trimming.
Round hats are of most varied shapes. and
the greater number have large square
crowns or else very high slopng crowns.
French milliners have chosen the slopipg
crowns for the trimmed hats sent out as
models, but as these are not generally be-
coming to slender oval American faces, the
English shapes with large sailor crowns and
| slightly rolled brims will probably find fla
| vor.
The Greuze capote with frills of lace in
front is imported for small dress bonnets.
| This may be entirely of lace over net and
| wire foundation, or ii may have a crown of
| straw or of shirred material, either of velvet,
ottoman silk, or satin. The frils of lace in
front are the special feature of the Greuze
bonnet, and give it very cap-like effect.
White lace with threads of gilti is used for
such bonnets; two frills forming the brim
are laid IN a box pleat on the top, with side
pleats each side, and the crown has rows of
the lace turned downward.
Ribbons, laces, and flowers are the mate
rias most used for trimming the new bon
nets. Pompons, aigrettes of marabout, and
fria fifca 1. -
said feathers will not be as much used as
they were last summer. The ribbons are
narrow, varying from a short inch to two
inches in width; and they may be of velvet
with satin on the wrong side, or else otto
| man repped on one side with satin on the
| opposite side, or perhaps both sides are
| repped; the only brocaded ribbons are of
Persian coloring, and those with large balls
| OF velvet or satin on repped ground Occa
| slonally handsome bonnet will be trimmed
| with bias velvet or ottoman silk cut from the
| piece, but the use of ribbon is the general
| rule. Gold lace, white lace with gold threads.
| leather col0red lace in guipure patterns, part
ly of silk and partly kid, colored laces, each of
| single color or with many cashmere tints to-
| gether, and black laces of various kinds
French, Spanish, and guipure-are used for
| thefull frlls that trim many of the spring bon
nets. Flowers are punched in very thick clus-
ters OF blossoms, with the leaves massed to-
| gether IN most unnatural way, and quite
| feature is made of punches of stems and
| thick stalks. Velvet and silk flowers replace
thin muslin flowers, and satin and heavy
| plush are used for the petals of dark mas
turtiums, carnations, assers, dahlias, chrysar-
themums and wild roses. Few large roses
| are seer; the preference is for smaller flowers
punched in half-wreaths, or in one large
| fat cluster. Verbenas are thickly clustered.
and there are ruches of geraUiums that COW
er the entire brim of capotes; violets. hello
! tropes and forget-me-nots also form the
| front of bonnets that have a crown of lace.
| straw or ottoman silks. Lilacs are in great
| favor, not only in their own white and pink
ish-purple hues, but in most unnatural red
| yellow and green shades. The white flowers
most seen are marguerites, syringa, lilacs,
| and thlstles- Hedge roses of dwarf size are
ranged in double leaves of twenty or thirty
blossoms, with bunch of green leaves at
one end, and at the other end are unblown
rose-buds hanging on their long stems.
| A touch of yellow is seen on almost every
bonnet; this may be the pale light tint SO
much used by Spanish women amid their
black laces and called p6pite, the color of
| native gold, or it may be the darker nastur-
| tium or the mandarin orange shade: but it
| IS present in some way, whether in odd con-
trast with gray, or with dark red, green. or
| the palest pink. Frdnaboise. or rasnberrv
which is now shown in eight different tones.
The new light bronze green, similar to sage
| green, is called tige d'oeillet, stem-of-pink
/ green. The stylish Judic shades are inkish-
beliotrepe and dark red-purple, like the am
aranth and scabieuse colors. The CUR and
tobacco browns have been mentioned: d,dn-
as, or pineapple color, is used with black
and with brown effectively; and the blue
shades are in porcelain tints with grav
tones, aud the pure blues of Sevres, and in
| dark sapphire hues. Ornaments of shell
| and amber are long pins with round heads.
aud she'll buckles inlaid with pearl.
| The trimmings are massed in cluster on
the top of the bonnet, thus giving high
| effect to those of the lowest shapes. The
crown is often further trimmed by doubled
| velvet ribbon pinned on the lower part in
two points by thick shell pins, and the rib
bon then forms long strings; or else the
| ribbon is passed twice through buckle at
| the top of the crown, and then tied down
the sides of the bonnet. The lining of
brims is most often plain velvet cut in the
shape Of the brim, but there are others with
folds Of piping velvet inside, or lace frills, or
| a thick cluster of flowers; newer still are
the double frills of velvet on the edge, rest.
ing on the hair without any of the bonnet
frame beneath them. The ottoman and
satin ribbons are most used for the cocks
| comb bows that take their name from hav
ing notches like those of the comb of a cock
cut In the ends of the many pieces of which
they are made. These bows are as tightly
strapped as their many loops can be, and
there are also many of the notched ends of
ribbon left stiff and bristling; thus on a
cuir-colored bonnet is a raspberry red otto
man bow of four loops of ottoman ribbon
that is two inches wide; the loops are four
| inches deep, and there are also twelve
notched ends; to tie these together tightly is
pale raspberry ribbon an inch wide, and of
this there are also four long loops and four
notched ends. This makes a mammoth
bow that ia perched on top Of the bonnet,
and to secure it the straws are ripped apart