Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1883-07-06
OUR LAST LETTER FROM EUROPE.

| from NdNtIIg SIdllUu. Ou Jul way W
Stirling we passed through some very
| fine farming country and found the
| farmers, although it was the last week
| in September, in the midst of harvest
| ing. AT Linlithgow we caught glimpse
of the fine old palace in which Mary
Stuart was born. We were fortunate
in having in our compartment of the
| railway carnage young Scotchman, a
a very liberal one, who had Travelled
extensively in the United States. His
remarks on the history of the country
| we were passing through were very en-
PERTAINING. Like SO many of the travel
ers we had met during the summer,
and especially since our return from
the continent, be was deeply interested
in the American novel democracy.
This clever little novel seemed TO create
a great deal of interest in England and
Scotland. We could go nowhere, but
we found someone reading it, and ac-
cepting all that it said as the true ac-
count Of American political life.
We reached Stirling about 3 o'clock,
and as we intended to stay there only
that night, we drove at once to our ho-
tel, the Golden Lion" and from there
TO Stirling castle. 1t was very steep
hill leading to the castle, and we were
much amused at the dialogue between
our coachman and the children shout
ing at US as we toiled along. The dla-
logue was in broad Scotch and was
rather more vigorous than anything
William Black gives US. We found
Stirling castle very interesting. and the
view from there was superb, embracing
as it did the Highlands, Wallace'S
monument. the old bridge across the
Forth, the battle field of Bannockburn
and the charming surroundings of Stir
ling. 1t one corner of the walls was an
aperture called the Gladys look out"
giving delightful view of the grounds
where the royal games were played.
This was formerly the "look out" of
the Scottish queens. The castle is very
old and has had an eyentful history.
1t seems to have been the favorite res
idence Of the kings and queens of Scot
land.
We dined at our hotel about seven
o'clock, and we found the cheerful fire
in the large open fire place a great adj
dition to our comfort. 1t was quite
dark, too, at that time. In the middle
of the night we were awakened by the
music of the bagpipes. and the march
of many feet up the stony street to the
tune Of Charlie is My Darling" 1t
was some athletic club returning from
a neighboring town.
Quite early in the morning we break
tasted and started for Calender. 1t
seemed as if we ought to be bound for
Oban, with genuine William Black
cruise to Stornoway in view. unluck-
ilyss it began to rain almost as soon us
We entered the Highlands. The Bridge
of-Allan seemed a beautiful spot. At
Dunblane, where there is fine cathe-
dral, we saw number of Irish har-
vesters, waiting for train. The wo-
men were bare headed and with bare
feet, and seemed not to mind the rain
at all. We left the Highland train at
Calender, the rain still pouring down.
At Calender it is said Gaelic is still
spoken. but we did not hear any. At
ter getting on all the waterproof cloaks
and coats that we possessed, we mount
ed on the top of the coach i'll waiting,
put up our umbrellas, and fastened the
rubber apron in place. We were then
ready for the Brig O. Turk, Coilantogle
Ford, and the far-famed TrosSachs. 1t
was very enjoyable drive from Cal
lender through the Trossachs to Loeb
Katrine. The scenery was very fine,
the mountains looking so grand when
seen through the mist. The pretty
Scotch heather was in full bloom, and
the bracken owing to the latenesS of
the season had turned to bright yell
lowish brown color. The TrossachS
hotel Sc emed like some grand old me-
diaeval castle in the midst of such
magnificent scenery. Soon after leav-
ing the hotel we entered the Trossachs,
a narrow valley leading to Loeb Kat
and through which with great diff
Guilty a road has been made. If we
| had met Roderick Dhu in it in shape of
! another coach j don't know what the
consequences would have been. The
| landing stage at Loeb Katrine was very
picturesque. 1t consisted of y long
gallery matched with heather ana
built along the side Of the cliff. From
this landing stage we embarked on the
| Rob Roy" and were taken across the
most beautiful of Scotch lakes tC
Stronachlacher. 1t still rained little
but all the passengers stayed on deck
to gaze at "Ellen's Isle," Ben Venue
and the beautiful scenery. Quotations
from SCOTS Lady of the Lake. filled
the air. We took another coach on
landing again and drove over some
! very dangerous roads and through the
bleakest, gloomieSt country to Invers-
| IldlI. IL ldllltu III tOIlClllS WIleH we
were in the widest places. and the roal
brought most forcibly to my mind
Dickens description of his visit to the
| Pass of Glencoe. We lunched at the
very comfortable hotel at Inversnaid
and waited there an hour or SO for the
steamer which was to take us over
Loeb LomOnd to Balloch. The position
of Inversnaid seemed very romantic
and the view from there was very fine
Near the hotel we visited a magnificent
cascade. the scene of WordwOrth's
poem of The Highland Girl"
Our ride over Lock Lomond was
very enjoyable, as the weather had
cleared, and allowed us to see the fine
scenery of the lake. We could also see
Ben Lomond and were interested soon
after embarking in looking at Rob
Roy'S cave and various other points of
interest. Loeb Lomond is the largest
lake in Great Britain, if | mistake not
and i'll grandeur of scenery it probably
Surpasses them all. 1t took us between
two and three hours to reach Balloch
pier from lnverSnaid. Our steamer
was very much like an American river
steamer. At Balloch we took the train
for Glasgow via. Dumbarton, arriving
at Glasgow about six O'clock Our no.
tel, The George" facing the fine
George square, was Il very comfortable
one. That night we went the theatre
together for the first time since leaving
London, and saw Geneyieve Ward Gan
American actreSS) in her remarkable
personation of Stephanie in Forget
me-not." The next morning we saw a
few of the Glasgow sights, including
the fine old cathedral and made few
purchases of Scotch articles. We were
intending to leave at noon for Ayr t
see "Bobbie Burns" birthplace, All,,
way Kirk, the twa brigs o Doom anG
4 plaid shawl, | have forgotten OF
what clan, did not reach our hotel {
soon rs the shopkeeper had promised
ii, and We were thus forced to miss oul
train. AS our time was so limited WI
thought it best to 90 at once to Liver
pool, which place we reached late a
night. after fatis uing ride. We found
the London and Northwestern hote
crammed from bottom to top witt
Americans, laost of them like ourselve.
getting ready to sail. The hotel was
used to such crowds, however The
day before sailing is. | suppose t
everyone an exciting, busy one. Il
was so TO us at least. There were 81
many things to see to; so many things
had been left until the last minute
trunks had to be repacked and variou:
things had to be hidden carefully away
We found every shop in Liverpool an
xious to sell. and the streets were filled
| with American women eagerly search.