The National tribune., 1883-05-17
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF NORTHERN ITALY. |

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF NORTHERN ITALY
In northern Italy there are factories sprin-
killed. along the line of railroad silk failures
and straw hat factories, with here and there
"molerio Americana" or American sawmill, and
everywhere there is the same neatness and
economy of space which eharacterizes the fac
tories of France and prevents their presence
from being the eyesore it so often is in America
This Is easier, of course, by reason of the hand
labor and the minimized use of eoal-an ar
rangement hardly to be recommended for in
PRODUCTION into America, though the neatness
and even picturesqueness of the factories in
Tuscany is admirable.
In contrast with the modern factories were
ancient towers, square and somber, rising on
little hills and left alone to tell the tale of an
Gent invasioRs and the dreaded Saracens. Here
and there dark spot In the distant landscape
proved on approach to be q small square ceme-
terry, protected by high, bare walls and crowded
with dark, slender cy presses, repellant enough
to fill the children of the neighboring peasants
with horror of death and wealth of ghost
stories Along the highways were discolored
crosses with all the insignia of the betrayal and
death of Christ, the cock, the dice etc, sight
little calculated to arouse any sentiment save
disgust. sometimes a string of carts passed
along, the shafts in the air, the load far at the
back, and all the purchase lost which the high
wheels might secure. Often group of soldiers
CHlifSuCQ tuS cCSutf wearing GN6s DrtJbleSI
bright uniforms and bearing themselves in a
way to command admiration, their martial
aspect funnily burlesqued by the gorgeous cos
tunes of the gems d'arIneS and the railroad Off
Gals. The Italian delights in colOrs and COS
TUNES; and clOaks high boots, feathered hats
and dangling swords become matters of course
at an early stage of travel in Italy. The uni
form of infancy is a funny outgrowth of the
delight IN costume. In the parks the babies of
wealthy parents are clothed like other civilized
babies but their nurses wear gorgeous dresses
OF bright blue or red, with huge headdresses OF
lace and satin ribbon, making them gay and
pleasing objects among the deep green of the
trees. The peasant babies, however, having no
nurses in uniform, are uniformed themselves
their long skirts being turned up and tied
tightly in great bundle about their poor little
legs. Ordinarily the bundle is simply white
and awkward, but ON great occasions it is tied
with red or blue cords or ribbons. The custom
Is an injurious one, of course, and is falling
into disuse; but in the rural regions the babies
who made part of the waiting groups at the
stations were all bundled. Happily they were
only waiting because their caretakers had some
interest in the passing train-nOt in order to
enter it, for children do not travel In Italy any
more than in the other European countries.
THE GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS.
The italian railroads are government pos
ment possessions that have seen In my super
fetal observation of things Italian, to the wis
dom and efficiency of the present administra-
ton. Enormous outlay has been made in their
construction and no effort has been spared by
which they could be made to bind together the
different regions and interests of united Italy
The work has been done efficiently, too, and
the journey from Ventimiglia to Rome exhibitsa
degree of daring enterprise and engineering skill
in Its miles on miles of tunneling, calculated
to inspire profound respect. The cars are as
comfortable as the absurd European model per-
mitS any cars to be, the tracks are smooth, and
the running time punctual. Rates are high,
necessarily; but rates are high everywhere in
Europe, and there is no longer the need of bar
gaining for the price of railroad tickets. Travel
in Italy is, therefore, on a new and improved
basis, for which the foreigner owes gratitude to
the present government.
The people have been as agreeable disap-
pOlntment as the railroads. In place of the
lazy, dishonest people described by former
travellers, | have seen patient, thrifty toilers,
and / have not had one experience of dis
honesty. Overcharges there are, but that is
because the seller expects to be asked to take
half his nominal price. In other matters /
have seen examples of rather exceptional scru-
pulOus care to give every man his due.
In short, / leave Italy, after a six weeks
sojourn, with a pleasant memory of nation of
Woodworking, CHEEKY, kindly, temperate peo-
pie, who live contentedly upon simple food in
not too comfortable homes, paying high taxes
TO maintain a government which they them
selves have chosen, and which is proving the
wisdom of their choice by 8 Just, humane and
StatesmanEke administration. F. K.