Connecticut western news., 1883-04-18
When and How to Plant Orchards.


 planted during the present month. In others this work will be delayed until fall. Spring and fall are the seasons usually set apart for starting orchards. and each has it's advocates. At the South an intermediate season is usually selected; midwinter being q favorable time with horticulturists at the extreme South. Spring ill most sections is be- lieved to be the best time for planting out the stone fruits. In climates where the winters are long and severe, or where alternate freezing and thawing is of frequent occurrence, the transplant ing of fruit trees ought unquestionably to be accomplished during the early spring. In many localities fall planting is not only permissible but preferable, for at that season there is more leisure time, and then, too, it is the fitting sea- son for taking up seedlings and rooted layers for stocks.
 There is nothing more important in starting an orchard than the selection of a favorable site. It ought to have 0 medium position as regards exposure and influences of the season. Where winters are uniform in temperature and cold spring frosts do not prevail, the main object is to guard against high winds from the east and north, which injure the blossoms and blow off the fruit before it is mature. This is best done by belt of woods or hill, or border of rapid-growing trees planted simulta- neously with the setting out of the or chard. When late spring frosts prevail high location with northern exposure is best, for cold locality keeps the fruit buds back until the frosts are past, Where the winters are variable. as in some portions of the West, select ele- vated, dry, firm soil, rich enough to produce a solid, well-matured growth. The character of the soil must also be considered. Peaty, or mucky and damp, cold and spongy soils are unfit for fruit orchards of any kind. As a rule, apples and pears thrive better on dry, deep, substantial soil, between sandy and a clayey loam in which occurs consider able proportion of lime! The most en- during peach orchards, it is believed, arc those grown on dry, sandy loams. Gen. orally speaking, the plum delights in z rather stiff, clayey loam, though some sorts succeed well on light soils. The cherry thrives on light, dry warm soil In orchards were apples, pears, peaches plums, etc., are planted promiscuously a sandy foam with sandy clay subsoi is the best.s Under all circumstances the soil for an orchard should contair lime, potash and fair proportion O vegetable mould.
 It is essential that the soil be deel and in good tilth. The selection O varieties should be influenced by tn, wants and circumstances of the grower Large orchards, for profit, ought to b' made up of well-tested varieties tha have been proven in similar localities and soils. Whatever the variety, low stocky trees are to be preferred to tall slender ones.
 The usual arrangement of orchart trees Is ill the square form, in rows tn, same distance apart and an equal dis tance between each tree. A common mistake is that of setting the trees to near together. In apple orchards 30 fee from tree to tree, in all directions, is l !, 25 feet. Peach-trees are preferable a one year old from the bud and should b set say 15 feet apart. Standard cherrie are generally set about the same distanc advised for peaches and may be trans planted at one year old from the bud an' should not be over two years. Plum trees are usually planted about 15 fee apart trees two years old from the graf are recommended for orchard standards Quinces require about 12 feet space an ought to be at least two years old fror the layer or bed.
 All trees ought to be transplanted a soon as possible after having been lite from the nursery. All broken and mutt lated roots should be removed with
 sharp knife, and enough of the previou seasons growth of branches cut back t preserve proper balance between tn stem and the roots of the tree.
 The ground having been previousl prepared by blowing and placing ill goo tilth, holes may be dug wide and dee enough to admit the roots careful spread out in natural position. Tn tree must not be set deeper than l originally stood. Fine earth should t filled in about the roots and trodde down with the feet, more earth filled il l more firming down of earth, and so o . until the excavation is filled. When u ground inclines to be dry, it is an exec lent plan to dip the roots in thin mu and use water for setting down the eartl If the trees are in exposed positions s U cure them by stake or two. Mulchi1 is very generally approved for newly-s a . trees; it keeps the ground moist al Il warm and prevents the growth of weed ,, Growing Old.
 HAnd do vO11 know if is a splendid thil