The Portland daily press., 1883-11-02
Fashion Notes.

are again in high vogue.
Long pelisses made of finely checked
tNeeds or cheViots, and trimmed with five
inch bands of fur, viii be much worn upon
the promenade this winter
Scarfs, panels, either plain or killed, sash
es, waistccats and Vatican tunics, made of
Roman striped or plaided mervilleux, are
again worn as accessories to dresses of
dark monochrome.
Silver clover leaves covered with tiny dia-
mond clippings, made to resemble drops of
dew are among the new designs in fancy
| jewelry, the set consisting of lace-pin, ear
rings, hair ornament, slide, and bangle
bracelets.
Lillian Russell poke bonnets are quite the
rage. These have wide, protruding brlms
and little or no trimming at the back, but
vast quantity of soft, wavy feather tips fall
ing over the edge of the brims. The ends
of these feathers are held by long, slender
buckles studded with glittering stones This
stylish head covering is adopted by those who
| wear the hair arranged a Ia Langtry.
| Ladies' cloth of darkest cardinal, made
with the skirLs laid IN wide panels With kits
| intersecting, the panels covered with Rus
sian embroidery in coors of cardinal, green
| aud gold, compose one of the most stylish
and elegant of walking costumes of the sea-
| son. The long apron overskirt is caught up
with colored silk cords, and the cardinal
velvet shoulder-cape is lined with plaided
surah in colors matching the shades of the
| embroidery
Many plush capes are worn just now, and
| with good deal of wadding they are nearly
4 q hioh ovd
the half sleeves set in in the fashionable
way. In color they are expected to match
| the costume worn with them, or otherwise,
| to correspond to that of the dress trim
| mings. A new shade of plush, very thick
and heavy, exactly matching the color of
natural beaver, is much used for pelerines
and shoulder capes. These come with jock
| ey caps and muffs to match.
Small fruits, including rosy apples, pears,
| apricots, plums, grapes and peaches Of natu
raj size, are seen upon the newly-arrived
| brocaded velvets and satins from LYONS
| deep orange-colored satin shot with silver
is now exhibited by Broadway firm. This
| odd groundwork is brocaded with large
crimson velvet egg-plums in clusters.
Another pattern has ground of silver-col-
| ored Ottoman silk of unusually heavy cord,
brocaded with deep red cockscomb flowers
OF natural size; and heavy white Ottoman
silk is covered white thistle blooms, the
feathery portion being made by full tufts of
raised chenille.
The new Spanish MANTLE" which is to
take the place of the hackneyed fur-lined
circular with those who seek for novelty in
attire, is very becoming to tall, slender Ia
dies. The wrap is uncommonly elegant
and graceful, and is made of black brocadea
velvet, and trimmed around the entire gar
ment with black Russian fox. Around the
neck is very deep collar of the same fur,
which covers the shoulders like cape.
The wrap is lined with dark red plush, and
is much too heavy for street wear, being de-
signed especially for carriage use, and as a
garment to be thrown aside in heated
room. Models much in the same style, for
promenade wear, are made of brocaded sat-
in or velvet, lined with quilted satin, and
trimmed with chenille fringes, fur, or zbli-
nette.
Furs are always the handsomest of winter
trimmings, and the fortunate possessor of
good furs need not follow the prevailing
craze for marabout. Its wear, like that Of
ziblinette,ss by no means satisfactory, and
though comparatively inexpensive, the ne
cessity of frequent renewal materially in
ereases the original cost of the mantle or
dress of which marabout is the adjunct.
Nevertheless, motives of economy do not
IIM N-s.-zs ~ - oss'aos A1ls
fight and fleecy looking and Always pecenns-
dresses. Marabout is dyed most of the new
delicate tints, as well as'in the deep artistic
shades of green, olive, brown, ruby and blue,
Two very elegant dresses just completed
| by an uptown modisto are fit for a queen.
| One is of lustrous milz-white satin, brocad-
ed with silver thistles surrounded by fine
arabesques in pearls and crystals. The bod
ice is Of plain white Lyons satin, opening
over Louis XIV. wafstcoat of the brocade.
This toilet is said to be perfect copy of a
dress made in Paris for Comtesse Kesseler
The second dress is of azure blue satin
brocaded with f1ll-blown golden roses and
pale green foliage. The petticoat is of olive
green velvet embroidered all over in boquets
of fine flowers, showing forget-me-nots,
scarlet star blossoms, and pale gold buds in
termingled in an exquisite manner. The
train is cut in princess style, and the Tyre
shaped opening in the neck and the edges of
the half-long sleeves and finished with ruffies
of Renaissance lace.
Very handsome costumes for visiting or
evening wear are made With skirts of plain
Ottoman, elaborately trimmed with bands
of applique in silk cord aud chenille work.
The jersel bodice is of velvet-a deeper
shade than that of the silk composing the
skirt. This bodice is also elaborately trim
med with applique bands, and the joining of
skirt and bodice is hidden by the draping of
full apron overskirt made very bouffant in
the back. For full-dress wear was lately
imported toilet for a debutante modelled
on this same style. The fabric was a pale
blue satin-grounded Vatican brocade, fig
ured with blush roses, combined with pale
blue velvet. The velvet skirt was pleated in
wide kills from waist to ham. The apron
overskirt was of the brocade, and the cor
sage consisted of a Louis XIV. basque.
opening wide over full-kilted blouse waist
| coat of the velvet.
Roman and Egyptian sandals are very
| much in favor just now for dressy house
wear. The Egyptian style has the dimin1-
| tive toe covered with an embroidery in vari-
| Gus colored beads; soHe designs showing
| tiny palms in brilliant hues. The Roman
sandal is strapped over the high instep,
| these three straps being fastened by silver
| buckles, with Roman medallions in the CEN
| tire of each, made of real silver, A new
sandal called the "Fedora' is made of fine
| black undressed kid, the toes being covered
/ with ruby and Jet beads. These are lined
with dark-red satin and fastened over the
instep with cut jet buckles. The Dieppe
| slipper of black satin is cut very low indeed,
| and is exclusively designed for the full dis
| play of costly embroidery and lace finished
hose. Dark-red slippers, made of alligator
| skin, to be worn with black silk hose, and
| designed for boudoir wear, as the also new
| half-shoes made of doe-eoored undressed
stockings. The Richelieu shoe, with brown
cloth tops and bronze foxings, is very fash
ionable worn with brown-colored costumes,
and for general wear are shown a number of
handsome models made severally in shapes
known as Louis XIV, Moliere, Queen
Anne, Spanish arch, Chinese and common
sense" Cloth matched to the costume is
much liked for the tops of walking shoes,
the foxings being of kid, either black or
| bronze. These are made with rounded toes
| and modified French heel.
Gray, there is no doubt, will continue to
be the fashionable color this winter. GRAY
tender, melancholy, severe, Quaker, silver,
dove, nuns with its creamy sheen); gay in
all tones and shades, from tine somewhat
dingy tint, very appropriately called ''Lon-
don smoke" to the pretty blush gray chris
tened by the French people "pschutt."
Every day seems to add another tint and
another name to the list of grays. "Crepus-
cule' is said to be the last shade, though,
no doubt, while this fact is being chronicled,
some enterprising chemist or manufacturer
is mixing a little more ''smoke'' color and a
little less blue in his dye, and is looking
through his French dictionary to find anoth-
l -, III IL -. 4