The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1883-12-05


| silk covered on the front breadths by fully
| draped long apron of three breadths Of the
velvet edged with a chenille fringe which
falls on a wider border of black fox fur that
| goes all around the skirt With this isa pol
| onaise of the brocaded velvet that has short
| coat front with plain velvet vest, while the
| polonaise lengths are confined to the middle
forms of the back, each OF whibh is broadened
out below the waist into a whole breadth of
| velvet; this ample yet simple drapery is
easily done by taking mp three pieats on the
| middle seam Just along the tournure. and re-
| pesting this looping al each side. The side
| forms of the back are cnt off like basque,
and are quite plain. The only fur on the
| basque is the deep cuffs. and wide turned
| over collar with round corners that is first
| sewed TO the top of a standing collar of the
| velvet, and then rolled to make it very high.
| Deep satin facings line the polonaise. This
| is a simple and stylish model also for colored
| velvet suits, such as bottle green velvet with
| chinchilla fur, or sapphire blue with gray
| fox, or Titan red with otter or natural
| beaver.
BLACK WOOL SUITS.
For black cloth dresses one of the favorite
| designs is postillion basque short hip dra-
pery.and long pleated back drapery OF lady's
cloth, with the three front breadths of the
skirt made of Astrakan cloth Another FASH
ION hes the three front breadths of cloth cov-
| cred with lengthwise rows of braid that is a
third Of yard wide, whilesmany cloth skirts
| have the panels that are now so much in IA
vor covered with parallel rows OF braid from
| top 10 bottom. An edgng of fur sho wing
scarcely an inch Of the fur is also useo on
basques and skirts of cloth dresses and of vel.
| vet also For lighter-weightl dresses black
| camel's-hair is used for the basque and dra-
perry, while the three gored breadths OF the
| front and side are covered with Bengaline
repped silk in deep wrinkled apron that
| N ba mr. 81 hrPQdthQ a
| made TO cross each other in the middle OF the
| font, curving from the foot On the right to
| the left hip, and the Tapped edge has thickly
beaded passementerie upon it. The camers
hair postillion basque has wrinkled vest of
silk and revers each side of it covered with
the ietted gimp.
| HINTS FOR VARIOUS SUITS.
| The pointed vest of contrasting fabric af-
! fords good plan for remodelling dresses of
| last asOn that are worn about the button
| holes, and is also nsed on some of the hand
soonest new costumes. To do this the mater
ial of the basque, after being cut to fit to the
| front edge of the lining, is turned back from
| the neck about three inches wide and this
tapers to q point at the waist line; the space
| left hare is covered with satin, velvet, or
| other fabric which extends slightly under
| the turned-back part, and the buttons and
| holes are worked in this for 3 vest. The por-
| ton turned bach may form a fiat revers and
| be trimmed with rows of braid or with bead
| Ell pendants, fur, or velvet but for econony's
sake it may be merely gathered or laid in
| two pleats at the top, and it edges rolled
under along the vess. A pretty addition TO
this at the waist line Is small clasp OF silver
| or of cnlored pearl, and another clasp may
| fssten the collar. Instead of the square cor
| nerod Byron collars, the turned-Oyer collars
now have round corners. Sometimes a stand
ing collar of the dress material is placed sep
erately inside rolling velvet collar.
| The variety OF panels for fronts OF skirts
| increases Sometimes a double box pleat,
| with the inner pleat two or even three
| eighths vide, forms single panel down the
| front breadth, while the side breadths are
| formed of loose hanging side pleatS of anoth-
| or fabric, and these curve upward toward the
| back to show band of the stuff of the panel
| which represents a lower skirt. Imagine this
| Of the new rough tapestry wool of dark green
ground with dull red figures for the panel
and back drapery, while the pleated sides
| are of myrtle green velvet. In this case the
short position basque should also be of vel
| vet, with 4 tapestry vest pointed to the waist
line. and the velvet caught back beside 1T in
| the revers Just described. The short sides of
the basque are carelessly rolled up to show a
| facing OF the tapestry, and a cuff like an
! inner sleeve of tapestry comes out of the
! close velvet sleeve
/ Another fancy is that of dividing panels
| into three sets of what are called straight
| flOunces; for instance, gray cloth suit has
all the front and sides left visible by the cut
| away polonaise made of three sets of straight
cloth panels, square-cornered and tapping
| slightly as fiOunces lap, and these panels are
| separated by pleated fans of gray velvet; the
| panels are about ten inches wide, and are
| turned up and faced OH the lower edge, and
sewed On the sides to the velvet fans. The
| cut-away Polonaise for such suit
has a velvet pointed vest and
! plainly fitted waist passing
smoothly over the hips and pointed behind
the skirt added to this by the cross-hip seam
that is again in favor begins at the first dart,
and reaches to the middle back forms; it
| slopes sharply away from the front. is lined
| throughout with satin interlined with stiff
| lawn, and has velvet border three inches
wide down the from and back, but not across
| the foot. The middle forms are widened
over the tournure to take in nearly whole
| breadth OF doublewidth cloth, which, after
| being lined with stiff muslin, is folded and
| pressed in small tapping pleats that meet In
the middle and extend the whole length of
| the garment; the velvet band on the side of
| the back laps over upon these pleats, and
| there is no caught-drapery on this stately
| coat. Standing velvet collar and small
| rolled velvet cuffs. Steel and silver bullet
| shaped buttons are used OH gray ana black
| cloth suits that are trimmed with steel or
| silver braid. and there are fiat gilt buttons
on the brown, blue. and red cloth suits that
have rows of gilt braid above fur edgings
| Gray krimmer is one of the fashionable furs
| for borders OF gray cloth or velvet suits. and
| is also used TO trim the brim of gray velvet
| capotes and of. gray felt round hats.
Pretty aud youthful costumes are of velvet
with vest and drapery of embroidered In
dian cbuddah, in open patterns of eyelets all
! over the ground, and forming the scallops of
| the border. Sometimes the open-worked
| wool is used for the basque over lining of
| contrasting color, as blDe chuddah over red
| MORE lining, but one of the prettiest odd
suits has GOLDEN brown velvet position
| with an India red chuddah vest, and full
| draped apron over-skirt of the red chuddah
| with scalloped edges and many eyelets. The
| velvet skirt is suggestive to those who like
| simple styles. as it has six straight velvet
| bresdths hemmed an inch and a fourth deep,
| with two tucks of the same width above.
These breadths, about three-quarters OF
| yard deep are gathered to the silk founda.
| ton skirt under the overskirt (Which is
| sewed to the foundation skirt, and caught
below in large Loose box pleats by being
/ tackled at intervals to the skirt beneath.
Among the pretty materials for parts OF
dresses are the small-fgured yelyets, such as
| o clover leaf or a comma-like figure of vel
vet on satin or repped ground. As the silk
used for foundation skirts is not strong
enough to hold cloth skirts. modistes are
using farmers satin for the foundation skirts
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