The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1883-06-15
Rational Dress" for Men.

"a woman's" Letter in the London Times
Men have their say on women's dress, and
decide automatically what is or is not fra
tional dress will you permit lady to req
resent that mems costume is by no means
perfect, and admits of much improvement
as regards health, convenience and grace?
1t is rather difficult to speak out plainly
enough to substantiate my assertion as to
the first point but doctors will testify that
there has been great increase of late
among young men of liver and kidney dis
ease, not to speak of other delicate parts.
This is owing, believe, to the fashion which
has prevailed of small cut-away coats, leav-
ing loins and stomach unwrapt, save by the
tight and often thin trousers. Older men
frequently suffer from chill taken from sit
ting on damp seats, or cold stone, from
which woman would be protected by her
more voluminous garments. The absurdity
of the open coat and waistcoat, turned back
just where the throat and chest need cover
ing, is more generally recognized. The prac-
tice Of wearing, in Winter, waistcoats cut
very high, and the constant argument for
wearing beard, ''to protect my throat
show that it is felt, though not often ac-
knowledged In speech. The large expanse
of starched shirt front, held together, per-
hsps, with but one small stud, is ridiculous
in every way. 1t is sham, for most, If not
all, wearers supplement its deficiency by a
warm vest below, which cannot, however,
quite exclude searching wind, or keen
night air, after leaving warm room, from
reaching the lungs. 1t is not beautiful in
ITSELF it becomes easily soiied, needs fire.
quent repair, costly washing, and seldom
sets as it should. The stiff collar, rasping
chin, cheeks ard throat, is most inconveni-
snt In every way.
A far more rational dress for man was the
doublet fastening to the throat and cover
ing the thighs, with soft band or rundown
collar We come now to the crucial gar
ment 20 recommended for women's imita-
tion-trousers. If these be so adapted to
allow the free use of the limbs, how is it
that men wear knickerbockers for bicycling.
rowing, running and climbing? | once
heard gentleman, who had been to fancy
ball in hose and silk stockings, exclaim,
GLOW Jolly it is to dance without trousers
/ suppose he found they fettered freedom of
action. The chief difference between mans
dress and woman's is the principle of sus-
pension, The former uses braces, and
hangs all the weight on the shoulders, the
latter uses corsets, and suspends from the
waist. Braces would not do for women,
they would cut and pain the delicate flesh
of the breasts. Do they suit men? Is 1T not
curious that in all active exercise they are
discarded, and a belt substituted9 / can
easily imagine many Inconvenience attend
ing their use, but content myself with sug-
costing the question. have said nothing
about the grace of mems dress-every one
must allow it might be more ornamental.
No one who has ever seen stout elderly
man without his coat can help shuddering at
the thought of matron, stout and elderly,
clad in the dual garment, with only frill
round the waistband of the victorious trou-
sers, valuable to the morphologist as show
ing the course of evolution. Men and wo.
men are structurally different 10 make and
physical constitution. am so benghted as
to think their dress should also differ to suit
their needs.