Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-12-01
FASHION WRINKLES,
PAINTED TRIMMINGs-vELvEr TOKEs-MAN-O'-
WAR BLOUsE-NEw OvERDREsSEs, ETC.

o'>~--AN~SA~Ss
BALL OR Hoop EARRINGS set with gems OF
various kinds are very fashionable.
BELTS AND CHATELAINE BAGS. made of finely
embossed leather. of entirely new Designs are
again in high vogue.
PEARL and crystal brandebOurgs and fourages
fasten and decorate many evening corsages OF
white or pale tinted satin or silk
LONG pelisses, made of finely checked tweeds
or cheviots, aud trimmed with fve-inch bands
of fur, will be much worn upon the promenade
this winter.
SCARFs, panels, either plain or killed, sashes,
waistcoats and Vatican tunics, made of Roman
striped or pladed mervellieux. are again worn as
accessories to dresses of dark monochrome.
YoKEs of velvet are not only seen in evening
and house dresses, but on coats of dark green
and brown cloth. A rolled putting of cloth and
velvet outline the high-shouldered sleeves and
there is a velvet belt around the waist.
SILVER CLOVER LEAVES covered with tiny
diamond clippings made to resemble drops of
dew, are among the new designs in fancy jew
eiry, the set consisting Of lace-pin. earrings,
hair ornament. slide and bangle bracelets.
AMONG elegant novelties in dress trimmings
sent over from Paris are richly embroidered
metallic bullions and ncrustations of semi-pre-
cious stones in relief upon velvet, chenille. bro
caded satins. and finely damassed silks in Louis
XIII designs.
SWISS belts of leather or velvet are worn by
young ladies with cloth dresses. They are
made with points in front, the upper one small
and the lower very long. and the back Is plain,
straight band Jet belts Of fine beads very
close together are worn with velvet waists.
LONG gauntlet gloves, both in cashmere and
kid, are now in the newest shades-Pschutt,
Russian gray Car brown and Moscow green
The most stylish have tiny buttons interlaced on
the back. while very stylish cashmere gloves
for children have embroidered designs upon the
wrist in darker color than the glove itself.
THE newest bodice for young ladies' home
wear is the man-o'-war blouse, an exact imta-
ton of sailors blouse, with loose sleeves but
toning tightly in wide band at the wrist, and
with the regular deep, loose, turnover marine
collar tied with bunch of broad ribbons in
front. or fastened bya silk cord, caught together
In sailors knot. The blouse is long, falling
in a soft pouf over the tunic or skirt drapery
SOME of the newest overdresses arc so long as
to reach the bottom of the dress-skirt, both
front and back. The drapery at each side is
usually caught up very high with buckles or
loops ofribbon run through slide The other
extreme is very short bunchy tunic or panier
overskirt. Either style is equally fashionable
The question of suitability and becomngness is
ing choice of the two very opposite styles
Very few of the gray dresses now so much in
vogue are trimmed with colOrs.
CLOTH DRESSES have a very wide band of fur
around the skirt, or up its front breadths when
1t is of long fleece, but the short cured Astrak-
han Is put in three or four narrow rows across
the three breadths of the front and sides: a col
lar or plastrOn of fur or Of feathers is made to
be removed in the house on some dresses while
others have an edge of fur arranged like lace
inside the sleeves, and extending slightly up the
outside seam; and there are Astrakhan collars
an eighth of yard deep, lined with satin, and
Intended to stand up around the neck and
against the ears in true Russian fashion.
PLAIN silk is scarcely seen in New York for
walking costumes, cloths of every kind having
become so much more popular. This year they
are ribbed and repped and intersected with
threads of bright dark color which is only
slightly noticeable. These threads are woven
In lines which run the same way as the cord or
rep. A very pretty suit for walking is made up
in mouse gray cloth with dark red lines which
show in the killings of the skirt and the folds of
the drapery. The jacket cut deep and away
from the lower front. shows small piece of a
red vest, the jacket itself being Of fine, solid
mouse gray cloth.
No FASHION is so universal just at present as
the wearing of fur pelerines, from the moder-
ately-prced skin of the coney to the deep cape
OF seaiskin or sable, with an infinite variety of
medum-priced furs which come between. There
is a wide choice, and the shapes differ quite as
much as do the SKINS Some women like to
show trim waist. if they have the luck to pos
sess it. and these wear capes reaching just below
the shoulders, with pair OF very long fur cuffs
reaching nearly to the elbow, for additional
warmth n fftfn0 hor
capes come to the waist. some reach below tit
is purely matter of individual choice
GRAY, there is no doubt will continue to be
the fashionable color this winter Gray, tender,
melancholy, severe Quaker, silver, dove, nuns.
with Its creamy sheen-gray in all tones and
shades, from the somewhat dngy tint, very ap-
proprately called London smoke. -" to the pref
ty blush gray christened by the French people
''pscl,uW." Every day seems to add another
tint and another name to the list of grays. "C,-e
puScue" is said to be the last shade, though. no
doubt, while this fact is being chronicled some
enterprsing chemist or manufacturers mixing
little more ''smOke" color and little less
blue In his dye, and Is looking through his
French dictionary to find another name to call
it by.
PAINTED TRIMMINGS of all kinds are meeting
with marked favor. and many silk, velvet and
satin plastrons revers, panels and waistcoats
for cutaWay bOdices are now in the course of
preparation, to wear combined with elegant
evening dresses of a contrasting material
Young ladies who have taste for it are busily
engaged in painting sprays of tiny flowers upon
yards and yards of tllree-inch satin ribbons
these to be caught up in loops. and to droop in
long ends amid the folds of the skirt drapery
For dancing and fancy dress wide sashes are de-
cOrated to correspond. more delicate and
still more beautiful work is that of painting lace.
bit of artistic occupation recurring the incest
care. the truest eye to the blending and shading
of delicate colors, and the daintiest and deftest
OF fingers.
GRAPE is Not WORN for mourning as deep or
as long as it used to be, and is dispensed with
entirely upon Journeys. Travelling dresses for
ladies In mourning should be very simply
made OF firm, clOsc-teXtured material Luster-
less American silks are very suitable for such.
ana the bonnet worn with such dress should
DC OF SILK or D0mbaZne. without Grape or I'M
necessary folds; the long veil, if it is desired,
can De OF line black tulle rather than of heavy
Grape: Fine diagonal cloth makes the best man
Ties, the style and cut of which must, of course.
depend upon individual taste In Paris var-
Gus materials are considered good for mourn
ing; Drocades, stripes and figured goods are
worn, and no special regard is paid to the kind
OF material used either for dress or mantle so
long as it is black enough to be worn with the
Grape bonnet or veil.
A. Il. Stewards First Love.
About sixty years ago Cornelia Clnch was
one of the prettiest girls in New York She and
her brother, who afterwards became collector
of the port, were the children of ship-chand