Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-06-30
DRESS AND ITs vorAnrEx.
Summer Notes from Fashfon,s work.
shOpss

summer Notes from EaShkOAso Work.
shops.
COUNTRY DREssTNG-ToILETS At WEDDINGS
THE PRESENTATIONS OF FASHION AND THE ART
ELEMENT IN DRESS.
From Our Special Correspondent
NEW YORK, June 29th.
June has been famous for the number of we'd
dings which have taken place under It's rosy
auspices, and which recall the time when 1t was
preferred to any other month In the year-prob-
ably because flowers were more easily attainable
rather than on account of the good fortune the
month was supposed to confer on the happy
brides and their fortunate grooms. Now they
are considered interesting chiefly because June
wedding is always "pretty wedding. Roses
bloom everywhere, and poisoning vines trail
or form lovely screens where few
weeks before only smiax hung.
Larger latitude is also given to toilets. The
bride, of course. must wear the conventional
silk or satin, but the bridesmaids flutter about
her in dainty white null or nuns veiling-short
and with belted waists, their straw hats
trimmed with flowers. and their whole appear
ance as fresh and sweet as q typical June
morning.
sessing the cacet of good taste one by the bride
was OF rich white corded silk (bride's silk
not so large q cord as ottoman and not lustrOus.
but with soft. heavy satin finish. Bodice: a
low square, filled in with duchess lace and fin
ished with q ruche at the throat in which were
thickly set natural orange blossoms. Sleeves:
mere rim of silk and lace. Skirt: long trained,
perfectly plain, but finished with q pieating in
teriOrly and exteriorly-the outer one of silk,
the inner one of lace The bodice is straight
ia -.
forms large rosette upon one side. The veil of
tulle trailed nearly to the edge Of the skirt and
was fastened over the back hair with pearl pins.
The bridesmaids dresses were of white India
null, short. trimmed with oriental lace. The
bodices were full, crossed over, and belted in
with MORE ribbon. The sleeves were to tine
elbow, and the hats were trimmed with flowers
matching those they carried as bOuquets-two
daisies, two primrOses, two viOlets.
Two young ladies who were not bridesmaids
attracted great deal Of attention at this we'd
ding by the taste and simplicity of their cos
ker gray surah; peated and completed by beau
tifully fitting Jersey bOdices. Over the very
clOse-fttiEg sleeves, short upon the arm. were
undressed gloves of ivory kid, and
small poke bonnets of ivory kid were stylishly
with a group of ivory white feathers.
Another DRESS showing the extent to which
leather is used, was of biscuit colored satin.
with piping Of gold and black, and outstanding
collar Of gOld-embrOidered lace; cuffs to match.
The hat was brown biscuit shade. straw. with
gold rim. and five straps of light brown kid
around the crown, fastened with small, real gold
buckles.
A short toilet. considered very distinguished,
was wholly Of cream satin and gold lace. with
bonnet composed of satin rouleaux, pleated into
trellis work for the CROWN gold lace front. gold
upon the hips drawn to the left with gold ro-
settles. The gloves extended upon the upper
arm, and there was Queen Anne collar of gold
lace at the throat.
Embroidered nuns yelling. or India muslin.
trimmed with lace, are used by bridesmaids at
summer weddings, and present pretty, less
conventional. and more seasOnable appearance
than the orthodox silk and brocade whether
made with or without trains. But brides rarely
avail themselves of the privilege which the Their
mometer in the SOS and COS might be supposed
to accord them. The long corded, or ottoman
silk. or thick satin, is often the most orthodox
pattern, and the very high bodice. filled in with
q thick ruche, adds to the burden and dis
comfort. But there is reason for this adher-
ence to regulation costume in the use to which
occasions which will demand costly toilet with
something of bridal purity in it's tint and for
which a mere muslin would not be considered
at all adequate.
LACE COSTUMES.
have mentioned in previous letters the prev
alence this season of very rich materials. These
become still more noticeable as the season ad-
vances. The finest dresses ordered for Newport
for married ladies are of black lace-not Span
ish, but real thread, woven for the purpose, and
made over silk or satin. When black is used for
q lining. light grade of what is known as CASH
mere Marguerite is preferred-a Geneva silk,
which has more firmness and Is quite as durable
as the best twilled silks, while the texture and
finish is that of genuine tdiUe. and the cost Tin
the light grades) scarcely more than foulard
These rich lace skirts are accompanied by bod
ices OF Powered velvet, the pattern large and
raised above the close gauZe or satin ground
COlOred laces are not much affected by exclu-
sive elegdntes, as they have common appearance,
unless of very fine quality or artistically en-
brOidered. Spanish laces have been discarded
because they have become too general, but
there are some very lovely colored blondes, plain
and embroidered. which are used because they
are really effective, and cannot be duplicated
In gold and bronze shades they are beautiful,
and are made up over satin of the same tint, with
bodice Of satin trimmed with the lace The
skirt is nearly covered with it upon the front
upon the hips. The back of the skirt ia plain and
pleated; the bodice very deeply pointed back
and front; the sleeves, sometimes draped with
lace are laid full on the top but full sleeves are
not favored by the conventionally fashionable in
New York.
The least thing that breaks the rigid lines is
frOwned upon, and If full sleeves make their
appearance in dress ordered from Paris they
are sacrificed and replaced with tight ones.
Delicate tints are in high vogue, and cream,
satin and blonde or gold embroidered laces are
used-the latter being almost too conspicuous.
for they lose their attraction when employed SO
as to become monOtonous Or upon unsuitable
occasions. White satin and lace at a garden
party are lovely, but upon the top of a coach
they look out of place, because they are ex-
posed to the effects of dust. sudden showers, or
the gray. chilly changes which often take place
In our climate within an hour.
'FROU-FROU."
"What is the CHARM" asked gentleman re-
Gently, that assails one in an exclusively FASH
ionable circle3 confess myself not insensible
to it. though cannot analyze it, and only know
that it comes from clothes, not character. Yet
have seen individual women well and even
elegantly dressed without experiencing any feel
ing whatever save one OF discomfort"
ut Is probably" was the reply, "because
your fashionable friends are at home in their
clothes. There is fascination in the sight of a
tint that is pure and fine; there is exquisite
pleasure in the mere touch of soft. rich fabric.
and when the air is filed with them when every
movement brings contact and every glance a
heaven OF changing color, every sense of per
ceptiOn In ones nature runs to the windows of
the QOn1 Tn tho