Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-03-03

d latc uuc largely I'd the 3Oull0f3t1OnS OF the
silk with materials which, while giving In
creased weight. soon impaired creased and
streaked appearance, which destroyed all
beauty. But figures still large predominant.
and some OF the best Of the early spring cos.
tunes are made by combining handsome fig
ity. or with satin-de-lyon. or ottoman silk. The
last is undoubtedly the most effective combine
ton, but it is less suitable for the young than
either of the others. Ottoman silk. however.
is very beautiful in itself when it Is soft. rich
and pure, and some elegant dresses have been
made Of 1t and trimmed with q very fine quality
of Spanish thread lace with interior trimmings
Of white Mechlin. Soft pufTs not very full. are
much used in the making Of the skirts and the
drapery is often caught up through one i'm
mense buckle set little to the left OF the prin-
ceSse bodice.
Full moon and crescent patterns are among
the most popular of this seasons designs the
moons showing one-half their discs in one style
OF finish half in another, and the centers form
ing sort OF mosaic of both. Silk brocades in
patterns OF this description combine beautifully
with very fine black cashmere. and form very
refined though by no means inexpensive toilets,
for both fabrics should be handsome to be wOr-
thy Of each other.
NOVELTIES IN WOOL.
There Is nothing more gentle or more CRATE
ful to sight and touch than some of the soft,
lovely, gracefully draping materials that appear
In all wool for spring costumes. Light as zephyr
cloth, fine and supple in texture, rich or delicate
in tone. they bear the closest exam
nation, and reveal new beauty with nearer
ana more intimate acquaintance. In fact,
they are the opposite of snowy. and their good
qualities, to the superficial observer, seem to
bear but little relation to their cost; but the
wOInan who needs serviceab'e outdoor dresses
appreciates them, and the travelled woman con-
siders one or more Indispensable to a spring
outfit. They do not differ much from wear to
year. excepting that sometimes plaids make a
spiuttef among the quiet dark shades. the rich
wines and plum cOlOrs and the dainty ecrus:
put plalds. even when barred and blended in the
richest and most harmonious cOlOrings never
acquire genuine popularity; they always more
or less hang fire and the real lovers of wool
cling to their heather mixtures. their soft
tweeds, their twied chuddalls and their speckled
V'Gognes- Some large plaids in wine color and
ecru. with lines OF gold and bronze. are shown
TINS season. and will be made for wear with solid
Jackets and vests Of the light tint I'm the Maid
For young lady the jacket is OF very dark wine
colored plush or velvet. the vest is of ecru otto
man SILK embroidered with a light vine i'm wine
color and bronze. and fastened with small round
bronze buttons. The skirt is killed and the
tune draPed dagonally under the plated skirt
OF the jacket.
There are fine cloth suits in dark bronze and
myrtle green that are perfectly plain with vests
OF terra Gotta rhadames or ecru scilienne: and
others In which the vests match the cloth in
color and only differ from it in being of pleated
su.ah or fnadames- Long close fitting redin-
gOtes are made of cloth and faced with satin
rhadames over pleated silk skirts, whose up-
riSht 1oids form simulated vest, the redin9ote
closing only at the waist. Spring pelisses and
summer wraps are already being fashioned out
OF novelty in pOngee containing small ar
mure figure which relieves the deafness of the
surface and renders it most delightful fabric for
tnls purpose. These are not cut close and plain
like the cloth redngOtes, but are shirred at the
PACK and held in at the waist and have Innings
oil thin plain or twilled silk.
Many walking dresses in preparation for
spring wear are destitute Of drapery and hang
In straight folds at the back. This Is certainly
something to recognize and be thankful for.
Inc bunched-up walking dresses, with their
thick wooden folds, which careless dressmakers
never fasten securely have been a burden prjev
Gus TO bear. and for respite many women will
be heartily thankful. The finish in other re-
spects Is also simple. The narrow upright bands
at the neck are retained. or are only diversified
WI s1l;aght "turn-overs. which lay close to
the throat. and are duplicated in linen. with rim
OF embroidery. The upright linen collar is not
more than an inch in depth has no corners and
Is fastened with gold button Cuffs are obse-
ete. the long gloves covering the close edges of
the sleeves and the space. when the gloves are
not In use: being hled with serpentine bangles.
SUMNER sATrEENs.
formy good this season as last. Some are
printed In great detached figures which are ugly
and unbecOmng. and cannot be redeemed BY
any art in making them up. Others are less
bad. but have not the suogestiye
ness of garden and forest of last year. In other
words. they are sitter and more conventional.
the flowers less naturally treated and detached
from the delicate LEAKAGE and fibrOus accessories
OF last year. There are exceptions to this rule
In a class OF charming productions, in which
all the new pink bronze, brown. leaf green.
and strawberry tlnts are blended most harmoni-
Ousiy In flower clusters small moss roses. car
nations. and others on solid grounds with
solid plain fabric for combination The dark
shades OF crushed strawberry and the softer
ones OF telra-cOtta and shrimp-pink, the dark
bronze and the cream. present the most attract
i've combinations and make up into the most
novel and fresh looking costumes. In making
these materials the plain goods are used for the
apron and scarf-like drapery; the figured for the
principal part of the dress; and lace as trim
ming is not required.
Embroidered pattern dresses for summer wear
appear In almost Infinite variety. Plain pinp-
mans. chamberys. pOngees, and Victoria lawns
have superseded the cashmeres which have
filled The counters through the cold season.
Embroidery has been run into the ground. y
and, though it cannot suffer eclipse. since there
is no other OrnamentatiOn which is SO pretty or
80 useful for the price; still it seems pity to
nave IL maze SO common that 1t has become
before it has been enjoyed
1t Is good news that the gathered and narrow
ruff1ed skirts, the open bodices belted in, the
surpcc waists, and deep belted basques are to
be employed in the making up Of summer ma
terial this year and overskirts gotten rid of.
Overskirts can never be anything more than an
apology for an inadequate first skirt, and apollo
gies should be rare to be welcome OF in good
taste.
GLOVES AND SHOES
1t Is rather curious that the advent of the
Sarah Bernhardt glove has had good effect In
the desire for very small (apparent)
feet. and In charging the size of the ordinary
shoes. especially those with street dresses,
Shoe dealers do not understand it: but those
who have been long enough in the business to
know the difference, acknowledge the fact and
refer 1t to the influence of sanitary ideas on the
minds OF mothers, and not only their willing
ness, but their urgency that the shoes worn by
their children should be made large enough
Doubtless these have had their effect also. for
the feet OF school girls are no longer crowded
into shoes so small that they become instru-
ments Of torture and young women seem to be
far less afraid Of showing good-sized. useful
feet An Old-fashoned mother was shocked the
other day by finding that her big daughter. not
yet out Of school, required No. AZ In walking
boots. Good heavens! What q foot for q