The National tribune., 1883-08-02
LIFE AT BROADSTAIRS.
A Glimpse Of a Quaint Old English
Seaside Resort.
Special Correspondents National Tribune.

BRC&DSTATRs. Eng, July 0.-The season Of
enjoying London is very near its end Heat,
dust, noise that may not be shut out because
life is iusuHerabie without dfafts, WEAKNESS
Of body and mind, with the longing for green
fields and the sea, safety in the directions Of
music theater and dinner parties, and a strong
sense OF the insuideieHcy Of the garden party
TO cOuntcr6aance the oppression of city-days-
al this spoils London ia July
BY way Of contrast il would be difficult TO
mud a spot more restfHl than the sleepy hollow
from which | write. Broadstairs is q tiny
nook between the tavOrite eoelxBey resorts
kainsgate and Margate; and Ia ITSELF it ia
chiefly the resort OF small children The town
must have begun life on the sea-IeveI in sort
OF exaggerated cove, for the PRINCIPAL streets
begin near an ancient pier. and the hOus IS taat
line them are Delightfully."- old aud quaint.
But OF late the town has grown. stretching in
land aud upward along the chalk clihs that
line the east and south coasts Of England and
the families who come TO Broadstairs are APPS
to choose the newer, higher portion Of the
town, and to find windows that give views OK
wheat fields bright with peoples between the
town aud the sea.
Inland are the downs, great unfeneed fields
OF grain traveFsed by ancient roads, aud dotted
with villages and great sr ups Of farnl-build-
lngS. There are none o, Jhs stern. gray rocks
OF Massachusetts, and Maine none OF the marsh
lands and pine forest of our Middle State sea
coast. From the sea, the white chalk eER
rises perpcadicularIy, and SIX feet from the
Gill edge begin the farm lands, chiefly fields
of grain.
But even more Characteristic Of the English
coast is the little barber vi Ia It's pier aud
sands, and its substantial ancient town Of
gray stone houses. Near the pier is a quies
inn solidiy built and respeetabls. but ferceiy
named-The Tartar Frigate- Back Of this
stands a stately old fashioned, square brick
hQllSts with annie orrrIeTs rich Ia f1as.e
tnrf- Bg the side of this remnant Of a time
when Broad5taiTs was not yet afflicted with
summer visitors, there has sprung up a long
row OF apartment houses with attractive back
buildings, whose verandas are made cool and
fresh by the breeze that sweeps down from tha
cliff. Ia one OF these houses is the e circulate
ing library IN connection with Nudes" with
OUT which no seaside town IN England is COM
plete. Here You may find light literature IN
great abundance by paying a shilling week,
and the well-bred young women in charge Of
the library supply the town with erewels and
stationery and toys, as well and bring to mind
Mrs. Alexanders little story. Her Dearest
Foe"
Between this long row of houses and the sea,
just on the top of the cliff stretches the Parade,
which, in old times, would have been called,
more fifty, the village green Here a band
plays in the long twilight, and school children
rOmp on the grass until o'clock or alter.
on THE SANDS
From the Parade great flights Of stone stairs
lead down to the sands, and at the foot Of the
stairs between the cliffs and the waters edge,
Is the real life of Broadstairs. From morning
until far into the long twilight the sands are
the home Of happy colony of little children.
To the American boy, wearied BY long so
jsurn In London, these sands afford q glimpse
OF Paradise. Here he may, at last, set of the
tire crackers forbidden IN London; and here
he hudS an added entertainment in the pres
enee OF SIX tiny charity girls from the orphan
age, who creep as near bis ammunition as shy
ness permits, scuttlIug away when the crackers
explode only to drift back to the tempting spot
as their own curiosity and the young owners
merry face overcome their seruples. Here ha
finds little children from the East Indies with
tawny skins and impenetrasie black eyes. chill
dren sent home from India in the care Of an
Indian woman, who wears her native costume
OF long red shawl and sandals, besides the COM
mOnplaee dress of the English nursery maid,
and has an added charm Ia thai she plays with
her little charges, and makes hats of paper for
their amusement. Here the American boy
hndS queer looking covered wagons with lights
OF wooden steps at the rear-bathing houses on
Iheeis-that are drawn 20 the waters edge az
the bathing hour, These he views with ScOrn.
since there are many restrictions connected
with their use, and the beach races before and
after his swim, which makes half the pleasure
OF the bathing hour in America, are here for
hidden. On sunny mornings the sands are
rlch IN entertainment for the boy. Ii ne is n
gentle mood he finds opportunities of amusing
the tiny children under the care OF a sister OF
charity. who spend long days on the beach
through theiTsojOu at the COuvaIesceut Home.
Ii he - frivolous here are nero Ministries sing
ing English ditties with a swarm OF children
sitting IN the sand before them shouting the
chorus III he lsvaIn, be may spend sixpence
for tln-type; III commonplace, the ginger
beer boy stands ready 20 meet his need. More
over, there are 6Sh to be caught from the pier,
and boats TO be roWed when the tide is coming
IN, ana old sailors, who have been to tia
States" are ready to chat with a lad who
watches the craft that are passing and makes
intelligent comment on peeUiiaritiGs of rigging,
though now and then chance acquaintance OF
this sort may have a love OF teazing. and take
delight IN saying " I guess with needless
emphasis trick that IS trying to the temper
of small boys who are careful Of their English
and sensitive 20 ridicule on the score Of Ameri-
eaRisms
ENGLISH INDEPENDENCE.
One delightful characteristic common to
BToadstairs and all other English seaside re-
sorts IS total freedom from hotel life and over.
dress. Every EngliShman's house is his castle,
and be does not willingly exchange his poses
sion and seclusiOn for the crowded disc0ufors
of seaside hotel OF a haunt of sumner
boarders-" Indeed, he so pertinaeiously carries
with him his secluSion that there are almost
no seaside hotels. In all directions there are
lodgings and, even when two families havs
lodgings" IN the same house. you may dis
tribute yourselves between the first and third
floors and never see so much ~ the retreating
back of your fellow-lodSer, who has the inter-
vening second. You have, moreover, your own
servants, or the landlady performs all needed
functions with the help Of a small maid. and
you order from the butcher aud green grocer,
trusting the laudlady's honesty not TO abstract
your provisions, and her faculty OF order not
TO mix your berries with your neighbor's. So
there is the least possible croygding and iarring
and gossip and noise; the dressing Is simple;
for no one cares 20 criticsse an t-n0btrusiva
neighbor whose name IS unknown; and tas
tired mothers who need sea air and rest Gad
what they come for, while the children fad
simple outdoor life with no more temptation to
overeating or unGeTsleeping than they have IN
their own homes This is all very well for small
boys and weary mothers o. huge English iaR-
lies but from social point OF view j. ia nos
brilliant, and before many DAYS have passed
the American who comes 60 Br0adstairs has
restlessly travsrsed the downs 20 Margate aud
Ramsgate; has mounted the lighthouse -
North Foreiands and viewed from afar the
marine residence Of the Archbishops Of Caater-
bury; has tried rowing. swimming. fishing aud
sailing, and IS OF 70 Canterbury IN search Of