Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-03-31


shade.
These beautiful toilets involve more elaborate
styles Of hair dressing. The hair cOmbed close
to the head and arranged in plain knot at the
back does not admit of much OrDamentation
beyond comb, and does not add to anparent
weight or dignity. more effective couture il
required TO crown the masterpiece of the mo-
diste's art, and so the puffs and curls and aig-
rettes are gradually being reinstated.
TRAVELLING DRESS.
In the meantime the young who have not
much can rejoice that not much is expected of
them. The newest satines, which show increas-
ing loneliness of design and deiicacy of colOrinr
and shading, are more in harmony with the bios
soEling season than the costest satins. and
youth itself is better than all that money can
bring to age. because ii still possesses the price
less gifts of its Illusions and its dreams
The great charm offspring and summer dresses
especially for the young. is freshness and free
dom from what over weights or burdens ii. The
simple cloth rcdingOteS are attractive because
so plain that the beauty OF the cloth, the neat
ness of the lit and the nicely of the finish all
tell In winter border OF fur is not Cbicc-
tlOnable upon cloth garment. On the contra
ry, 1t adds Il suitable warmth to its appearance
but 4 finish which is in harmony with the gar
ment and adapted to the season is very
different from the incongruOus piasters of
coarse plush and figured stufls which have been
stuck on Jackets and listers as cuffs and facinrs
and pockets. irrespective of any need or of any
sense OF fitness. Pockets are useful--ougllt to
be deemed essential to street garment But
with the singular faulty that seems to preside
over the making of wOmen's clot hing we have
had parade ofpOckets which were not pockets
and which could not have been used if they had
been because they were so incOnyeniently
placed. while the daily papers We're teening
win accounts OF purses and pOcket-bOOkS
snatched cut of the hands of women in crowded
thOrou@biares, because their dress or coat con-
tanned no pocket in which to carry their money
The absence OF unnecessary rubbish in the
way OF trimming and mounting and the pres
ence of a careful and substantial finish in the
way of invisible pockets. fine stitching and in
terror facing mark the difference between real
tallor-made and other cloth garments. 1t is
almost impossible to get anything but the COM
mon side skirt pocket from the ordinary dress
maker. Even watch-pOcketS are omitted in nine
cases out OF ten, or are so badly arranged that
the ctiatelane is reSorted to, which, like the
pocket-b0Ok i'll the hand. is another invitation
to the modern thief, who is vulgar and brutal
parsonage. by no means so gcntlemanly or con-
siderate to woman as his ancient prototype
The cloth preferred for suits and redingotes is
soft but smoothly finished, and in fine dark
mixtures. such as hunters or bOttle-green dregs
OF wine and brown. For suits alone. higher and
lighter cOlOrs are often chosen, but they are Of
the dull art shades. and not so conspicuous as
the reds, blues and puppies were formerly
Only by comparing an old with a new shade can
one Judge of the enormous advance made of
late in the art Of color. We used to talk of
apple and :. grass green in reference to
bright metallic shades that were as unlike any
natural tint as it is possible to conceive and the
wide distinction between which could only be
measured by comparison with actual grass
and growing fruit But now there is q
nearer approach to the purity the tenderness
and the depth of natural colOrs and to the dark
shades which seem to become absorbed by the
MISREPRESENTATION do not stand out distinctly
and antagonistically from it. and which are as
well worn by men as by women. and. therefore.
suitable for the neutral ground which dress
should occupy in the street especially the
streets OF great city. The suit very often con-
siStS OF skirt. without fiOunces or rutfies but
in which the back is laId in wide triple box
pleat, the sides killed. and the front finished
with straight upright folds stitched on Over
this is worn straight coat, with a side pocket
inserted diagOnay at the right for the hand
kerchief and little purse for fares and an inside
pOcket1or more important matters. The sleeve
is cut up and rounded little on the back, and
may be worn with or without a linen cuff The
garment may be bclted in for tourist purposes
and the smalll satchel suspended from the side.
y cape may also be added and. with q tur-
ban. scotch cap, or Derby, and gauze
veil. the outfit is complete. This costume
is in some respects an Improvement on the
trimmed skirt and jacket that preceded it. 1t
Is less weighty. more complete, and much less
OF care in emergencies. A trimmed skirt sig
nfes plcated flounces, drapery at the back. per-
haps shlrrlng iii front and paniers on the sides.
All this mass of pleated and folded and punched
up WOODEN cloth must be worn in warm or moist
weather. and an ulster added for protection.
palmer skirt which does not flop about the
feet. which is not burdensOme yet looks WELL
is boom and the well-fitting redngOte or
straight coat over it with movable cape takes
away largely the necessity for an ulster This
costume is specially designed for travelling and
service. More dressy suits for street wear by
young women who are nothing if not striking
and conspicuous, are made OF raspberry
red or gendarme blue cloth, with an inner facing
or vest of white or buff. The vest is cut deep and
only little of it shOws-a mere rim on either
side-nOt a short vest buttOned over as for
merly. The front will be filed up with full
skirt of surah, the color of the cloth, gathered
or pleated top and bottom and extending three
inches below the line Of the waist. These cos
TUNES are not. however, to be wholly or unrea-
sonably condemned. They are very pretty
when well made. and of fine we'll contrasted
materials-and the slight ''Directoirc'' flavor
Which the cut of the coat, its collar and facing
give to the costume, is heightened by the CO.
quetry of three-cOrnered hat with tuft of
curling plumes or clustered pOmpons.
AMERICAN SILK
1t is not generally known that New York is
the largest center OF production OF American
SILK. yet 1t is true, one mandatory In 42d
street turning out 5000 pieces per day. Of
these at the present time not one is what is
known as "plain" black silk. So thoroughly
did ladies become disheartened and discour-
aged with the authorizations and receptions
practiced upon the old grOs-grain and faille
silk that they relinGuished them almost en-
ndsse. and the sales ceased to be sufficiently
important to warrant the employment of
machinery and force in its production. Besides,
the demand for figured fabricS-damasks and
brocades, the new Ottomans and the useful and
inexpensive surahs-became 80 great that
all the force was concentrated upon them
and the plain silk left to the importer and the
spun silk manufacturer. The principal black
silks, therefore, are the rich, ribbed Ottomans,
the armures and the twied surahs some of the
latter being light but close and durable for
Innings and foundation skirts, others satin fin
ished and most serviceable as well as most
effective for suits and costumes, particularly for
combination with velvet. There is also an extra
quality of surah which is suitable for mourning
for combination with cashmere and for endur-
ing costumes. The armure are also used in
mourning and for combination with fine black
cashmere; but they rule higher than surah, even
the extra Quality, and many prefer the surah
because of its peculiarly quiet and unobtrusive
character. The OttOmans are of course the richest
In black the handsOmest qualities almost surpass-
ing, at least Ia fashionable pre-emnence. the ex-