National Republican., 1883-08-17
THE zUNIs AT HOME.
Interesting Description OF Their DWELL
ings and Their Tovn--The Good Dance.
Stsridl Jcfier

Special Letter.
NEAR MANuEL1ro, ARIz, Aug. s.-We arc
now in sight of Manuelito, but can 60 no fur
ther on account of an arroyo, which is at pres
ent an unfordable torrent. Not long ago our
mail and some provisions of which we were
badly in need were thrown over to us.
Our trip to Zuni was a very interesting ono,
and cannot begin to describe all l saw there.
We camped at Arch spring, four miles from
the town, and passed three days in Zuni or
its immediate vicinity. Nh. Cushing, who is
80 well known as the writer of the recent
Century articles and for his familiarity with
and influence in Zuni, was very kind and at
tentive to us, and added much to the pleasure
of our visit. The first day 1 was in the
town l spent in examining the interiors
of the houses, which arc so arranged that
one may go from dwelling to dwelling from
one end of the town TO the other. i saw
the Indians engaged in their various oc-
cupations, mono of which was more
interesting than tho process of making flour.
Lining one sido of tho room in a trough
about eighteen inches wide, and in this, at
quito an inclination, are placed square stones.
The woman holds the heavy rectangular rock
| in her hands, and by repeated rubbings the
| flour is made, which is mixed. of course with
particles Of sand. The rooms that we visited
were neat and clean, but what struck me most
| favorably was the politencss with which we
were greeted wherever We went. This is q
| distinguishing characteristic of tho Iunis,
especially as compared with the Navajos, l
| think. Blanket making was also novel
| sight, and we spent some time in looking at
it.
The town is surrounded with corrals,
which, as one might fancy, are filthy. Among
the objects Of interest is an old Catholic
church built in 1902, and now used for no
purpose beyond that of a public convenience.
The Zunis are very tenacious of their old
traditions and religion, and all attempts at
Christiauizing them thus far have failed. A
missionary is at present there, but he meets
| with no success.
Most of the second day was consumed in
climbing Thunder mountain, a precipitous
mesa" near by and the home of one of their
war gods, which we were unable TO see, our
Indian guide refusing to take US near it even
though urged to do SO by Mr.. Cushing. The
trail up the mountain was exceedingly steep
and in PLACES dangerous but on reaching the
summit we were rewarded by a magnificent
view in all directions. On our return to
camp we were caught in n very heavy shower,
and bivouacked wet and uncomfortable.
Our last day at Zuni was by far the most
interesting, as | saw celebrated the good
dance, in the enjoyment of which we were
not disturbed, rs at the snake dance of the
Navajos, where one of the drunken perform
e-s sought to make sacri6cal offerings of his
guests. First there entered tho plaza about
fifty men, with fantastic headdresses and
effectually masked. Their costumes were
rich and carefully arranged, and their bodies
smeared with q pink paint. On the right
leg of each man was attached turtle shell
filled with beans, which made a rattlnl
noise. The dance, if such it may be called
consisted in beating time with the right foo
and singing a religious incantation, which
was cleverly done. Next there entered
twelve men, with the most grotesque masks
and very scantily dressed, who cracked joke
and cut up funny capers, very nearly repre-
senting, indeed, the clowns of the modern
circus. This dance was continued all day
, which was appropriately ended by our climb
ing one of the Zuni butues, and discovering
one of their war gods, fragment of which
shall bring to civilization. From the sum
nit we caught glimpse Of the Wistria val
ley and other points of interest. ii. d. Il.