The Portland daily press., 1883-08-31
Paris Fashions.

Some of the revivals in the domain of cos
tune with which we are now becoming IA
niliar are not the reflections of historic Pc
RODS in dress. They belong to an unroman-
tic epoch in this century when ladies wore
crinoliHe, and when the introduction of as-
thetic principles into the combination of a
feminine toilet was not so much insisted on
as now. Then bright green was preferred
to sage green, but little beauty was seen in
dun or russell tints, and brilliant blue was
generally considered more becoming than
the faded hues which, owing to our cultiva-
ton of the aesthetic faculty, we have now
learned to admire.
We are not about to say that the colors
known to artists as emerald green and ultra
marine blue are in fashion again. No; our
artistic tastes aremain with us so far, and,
just as Mr.. Ruskin would have us do, we go
to earth, sky, air and water for the shades
of color that are constantly being repro
duced upon silk, muslin, gauze and other
fabrics, and reproduced with fitness which
sometimes almost rivals the vaporous atmos-
pheric effects of Turner's pictures. The re-
viyals we allude to, and by which we are
gamers only, bring back to us the shot silks,
the glace silks, and the pinked ruches and
hounces which held such an important place
In the costume world of twenty years ago.
Black silk is to be one of the favorite forms
of dress material during the coming autumn
and winter, and pinkings and ruchings are
to be largely employed upon it. Black glace
too, of late years relegated, with few excep-
tions, to well-to-do servants wardrobes. is
to be brought forward, and is to hold its
place beside the dull aSd corded silks.
The shot silks are already revived in full
splendor, and outrival the glories of any
former period The most delicate shades of
color in one material glow and change like
the opal. The sheen of the pigeons breast
and the peacock's tail are initiated in silk,
as are also the hues of the rainbow. Various
shades of brown and red ares crossed with
gold, and produce rich and harmonious re-
Elections. The shot silk, with its chameleon
like changes of color, is issued as yet princi-
pally for underskirts. The jupe is often
covered with narrow pinked founces or
ruches, sometimes with alternate founces
and ruches, and forms most suitable
ground work for lace and muslin draperies.
Over it may be worn, with almost pleasing
effect, the tunic or polonaise of light sum-
mer material; say of Grape, cachemere,
mousseline de laine, or silk batiste. In this
case, the over draperies are generally orna-
mented with bows, loops on rosettes or
dark velvet, and sometimes accompanied
with dark velvet corsage of the same shade
as the trimming; the colors the most often
chosen Being ruby, claret, brown and dark
blue. Dresses of cardinal and poppy red are
TO be seen at such places as Dieppe, Trou-
vile and Deauyille. When worn by the
young and graceful, they form effective
spots OF color and tie surroundings of sea-
side and co19t-y life, and are generally re-
lieved Oy bands of lace or embroidery of a
rather solid kind. Ficelle lace is sometimes
smployed for the purpose. We must not
forget to mention the Irvine lace which is
being so much used for decorations of cos
tune or the wide bands of crimson and blue
satin, stamped with Eastern designs, which
p-ettily trim so many summer dresses. The
effect of this last style of trimming, how
ever, is considerably heightened by the pat
terms being brought olt in relief against
their dark backgrounds. by gold braid or en-
broidery.
Ecru continues to be as much worn as
ever, either as sole color of the dress, or with
combinations of red or brown.
Among blue we note a difference. The
"hussar" blue is giving way to the marine.
In fact nautical colors and nautical styles of
costume are very much to the front at this
moment. Young ladies like to disport upon
the beach or to climb up rocks clad in entire
navy suits. If the dress is of white serge,
dark-blue braid is its trimming, but if of
blue serge, it is trimmed with gold or silver
braid. The round hat and the open, turned
down collar 90 to make the navy suit COM
plete, which does not, however, at seaside
places eclipse the Jersey bodice. That,
too, is in dark blue, and is profusely orna-
mented with gold anu silver braid.
Travelling costumes show great variety,
together with much that is pleasing and ele-
CANT. The times are past when ladies
thought their worst clothes were good enough
for railway carriage or steamboat. Now,
instead OF Disgusting their fair forms in
waterproof before starting on a journey,
they show them to the best advantage by
wearing smart redingote or the fashiona-
BILE pelisse. Or perhaps they allow the trav-
cling dress to display its attractions I'M
aided by outer garment, if we except small;
graceful pelerine that just covers the Shout
ders. The travelling dress is now no incon-
siderable part of lady's wardrobe, and is
sometimes so fancifully ana cleverly arrang-
ed that, with little modification, the wear
or may sit down to the table d'h6te half an
hour after her arrival at the hotel and feel
as If she were in suitable dinner toilet. The
travelling costume is generally of soft
wooden stuff, and often mixed with richer
material of darker shade. Velveteens in
brown and claret are being much used for
this purpose, and are very suitable for the
corsage and scarf draperies, The chanoin-
esse dress attracts by its air of novelty and
simplicity, but is not likely to be generally
adopted. While aiming at style and effect,
it emulates certain nun-like appearance.
The skirt drapery, void of paniers, frills or
fsunces, falls into simple folds d Ia reLig-
ieuse, as only wooden materials can. Upon
one silk panneau, at the side, is designed
the form of a Maltese cross, and similar
cross is upon the front of the corsage, which
is made after the ode Virgean' pattern. A
small pelerine, edged with rich lace, goes
with this.
Perhaps the suggestiveness Of the season
is inviting 30 many ladies to pile the fruits
of nature upon their hats and bonnets. The
various styles of couture seem more numer-
ous than ever. The "de Genius" capote
completes with the large hat la Frondeuse.
One of the simplest and most becoming
styles of head gear is the large straw hat,
with scarf of Grape, gauze or embroidered
muslin for sole trimming.
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