The Milan exchange. (Milan, Gibson County, Tenn.) 1874-1978, 1883-09-22
FaII Fashions FOR Women.

made dresses fill large portion OF the
shelves. Habit cloths Of smooth sur
face, tricot cloths woven in ribs, Knick-
erbocker suitings with irregular threads.
and the new, consolidating friar's
serges with heavy diagonal twills, are
exhibited in all the new dark shades of
steel-gfay, brick-red, drab, brown, and
in purer tones of blue and green than
have been worn for several years.
Plain colors and invisible checks pre-
vail in the finest cloths, and will be used
for the entire dress, but there will also
be many "broken suits Ito quote
tailor's phrase), made of two kinds of
cloth, one of which is plain and the
other checked or striped. The effect of
stripes may be given to one part of the
dress by applying many cross-way rows
of braid of rough. wooden kind laid
upon cloth of different color from that
OF the dress. English suitings that have
large checker-board blocks, and Scotch
Cheviots with mixture of colors, are
cut on the bias for plated skirts, to be
single color that may be heavily braided
or left as simple and plain as the most
decided purist in dress could desire.
Striped and plain cloths are shown
with corresponding plain material to
be used in the same dress. The inner
waistcoats made by fashionable tailors
are striped to match plated and
striped skirt, and the English jacket
buttoned over the waistcoat is of plain
color, with plain goods for the overskirt
Long Directoire redingotes also form
overdresses for the cloth suits, and
these are made with striped vest and
rincroyable reUers of the new friar's
serge or of Jersey cloth. The New
market coat, closely buttoned up to the.
throat and covering the figure from top
to toe, is a favorite design for these
cloth dresses, and will be worn with a
high shouldered pelerine cape that is
merely foundation for elaborate en-
broidery of soutache braid. For ex-
tremely simple cloth suits the Norfolk
plated jacket will be used again with
an alligator-skin belt, and also collar
and gauntlets of the same leather The
skirt and overskirt have leather bands
or borders, and there is chatelaine
bag of this leather attached to the belt.
To complete these toilets are turbans
and small capots, made of the cloth of
the dress, placed smoothly over frame
or laid in many fine folds around the
crown. Smooth cloth bonnets are
braided to match the dress; circular
rows of soutache cover the crown, and
twists of wider braid are in the rouleau
of velvet that trims the brim. The
"feathered songsters of the grove" are
stripped of their gay plumage to make
turbans, and n single bird is used for
the trimming.
Eor sllken stufls large cords are Il
| feature OF the newest goods. and there
are not only Ottoman ribbed silks, but
| Ottoman velvets as well. The Ottoman
| silks will rival satins for rich and plain
| black dresses, and are to be combined
| with figured Ottomans that have the
| ground of thick cords on which are
raised velvet flowers, fruit, nuts OF
leaves of large size. Colored silks are
shaded through two or three tones OF
gray. maroon blue or red; or they are
opalescent tints in chameleon hues that
show different colors as they reflect
different lights. Stripes of contrasting
color, Persian designs, limitations Of
embroidery, palms, almonds, blocks
flowers and foliage are the patterns on
the new brocades. Instead of bro
cades going out of fashion there are
now Escurial brocades with shaded ont
lines on satin grounds, and brocatelle'
of satin and of velvet of far richer
qualities than any formally imported
Gros-grains. armures and the cashmere
finished silks will be used by those whC
do not seek the latest novelties. Blocks
almonds and checks of velvet raised OF
striped or tinely-checked ground will
be combined with plain silks and will
cashmeres. Cloth overdresses with
skirt of silk or velvet or plush, lik,
those in vogue last winter, will b.
worn again. For elegant dresses, plail
velvet of close short pile will be tn
choicest fabric of the winter, an,
will be trimmed with lace TO
the house and with fur for the street
Autumn jackets of tricot cloth are il
severe military style, with close rows O
braid rather than flower patterns TO
trimming. The dark Carmelite an,
friar's gray cloths make stylish jacket
with metallic buttons colored to mate
the braid; a cocks head, or flower, o
figure in relief ornaments the buttons
Velvet and plush jackets will be wor
again with skirts of harmonious color
For dress bonnets velvet will be use
the color of the dress, trimmed wit
fancy feathers, clusters of wings, smal
humming birds, or "a single large bird
Chenille crowns are a pretty feature c
new bonnets, and there are chenill
laces and braids that are tasteful gal
niture. These newest felt bonnets ar
| made of bands of felt plated with sill
, cords in basket patterns. Y. Tril
une.
.