National Republican., 1883-03-29
TIE THUMB AND TOE.
How the Manicure Goes to Work 60
BenutiTy Them--The Ratc at which
They Groy-secrcts Of the Art.

How the Manicure Goes to Work TO
BsnutiTy Them--The RNtc nt which
They Grow-secrcts OF the Art.
81 am the manicure"
The speaker was a young lady who had
been called on at her parors Saturday after
noon aud asked where the manicure the ladies
were talking about good deal could be found.
The visitor then inquired if the art of mani-
curing was peculiarly an American ono, and
invited an explanation of the details.
1--WE are indebted to France for our knowl-
edge Of it in this country" was the smiling
reply. IT has been carried on extensively
for long time in that country, hut tho first
manicure was not known in America until
about 1874, when an Office was opened in New
York. Siuce then Offices or parlors, have
been introduced in all tho leading cities
Some of the practitioners, as with every other
profession have but little acquaintance with
the business, aud simply carry it ON as n
money making scheme. The majority of pco-
pie do not clearly understand this sort of
thing"
"When you manicu re any one what do you
do?o 81.
"Wel in order to tell you much about 10 !
shall have to begin with the finger nails, as
those are the principal object Of the mani
curo's attention. The nails are really n part
of tho scarf-skin, and present the same phe.
nomena of ofadaptaton to the surface ofthe sen-
sitiye skin, but in n more striking manner
That portion of the sensitive skin supporting
the nail is formed intovcry delicate longtud
inal folds, which stand perpcndicularly from
the surface. The nail on its under surface is
fashioned into thin vertical plates, which are
received between the folds OF the sensitive
skin. In this way the two kinds of laininq
reCiprocally embrace each other. and the firm
ness of connection of the nail with tho soft
flesh is maintained. If you look at your
nails you will see the indications Of this
structure in the alternative red and white
lines, the former corresponding with the SEN
sitve lamina, and the latter with the horny
plates"
The reporter took flying glance at the end
of Que o. two of his digits but iudug them
dimmod with the well defined traCcs of plum
bagO, made haste to ask what caused the
white crescent at the base Of the nail.
The upper part" continued the lady,
covering thc sensitive laminu, takes its red
| tint from the multiplicity of blood vessels
there; but ut the root these capillary vessels
are not 50 abundant, and the color is pale.
What you call the crescent is technically
| termed the lunuia,' aud beyond it the nail
having the same relation to that part that
any single one of the thin horny plates of its
! under surface has to its corresponding pair of
sensitive lamina. The root of the nail is im
| planted within the skin about the length of
one of its lines, or one.twelfth of an inch for
| the fingers and toes I; one line and q half for
| the thumb, and two lines for the great toe
In its growth the nail presents many interest
| ing features Every one can see that they are
| thicker at their free end than at the base, and
consequently they must grow in thickness as
well as length. The thickness comes from
| the addition on the under side, so that the
nail grows upward as well as outward in reg
! ftln hnpt Non fpptN tl,atp pap1n
sition, the nails are subject to great deal of
hard usage and the fine appearance they are
| capable of possessing is very much injured.
! 1t is the work of the manicure to attend to
their wants, and from knowledge of their
| structure and requirements develop their
beauty. A fine suit of hair is great addition
| TO the charm of lady's head, and equally
well are her hands improved. by we'll kept and
| handsome nails"
How fast do the nails grow, and is il true,
as some say, that when they grow unusually
fast it is sign of nervousness"
"Dr Bean, q French authority gives the
growth rs one mllimcter, or two-ffths of a
| line, u week for the finger nails and abolt
the same Il month for those of the toes. The
entire length of the thumb nail, including
the hidden part, is about twenty millimetors,
or eight lines, so that the thumb nail grows
its entire length
ONCE EVERY FIVE MONTHS. it,,
From this you can calculate how long twill
| take any little white spot or Disagreement on
the nail to grow up to the free end and dis
appear" ~ :
for them?'
"The knife or scissors for tho free borders,
aided by II French nail knife, and whatwe
call the cuticle knife for the base, to prevent
| the adhesion of the free edge Of the scarf
skin to the surface of tho lunula, This edge
of skin must never be cut, except where
there are hang nails or unusual roughness.
| More than this, the surface of the nail should
never be scrapcd, unless by manicure or
one understanding the structure, aud
never cleaned with anything but Che
nail brush, and occasionally the file and
scissors used deliCately and sparingly. These
are the manicure's golden rules, and should
be observed by all. You asked if the rapid
growth of the nal was any sign of nervousness.
That is only one of many old sayings or su-
persttions that have no real foundation. Bit
! ing the nails is also ascribed TO nervousness,
but | do not think it so. The nails may be
affected, rs well as any part of the body by
some physical arrangement. but rs for accept.
! ing their changes as signs for good or bad /
KNOW no reason why it should be done any
moro than the thousand and one things
handed down as Omens from the long ago."
"Do you have any patrons among the Wash.
| ingtOn ladies2"
| "Yes, indeed, n great many, and I find that
| when they once see how much the hand is i'm.
proved, they make as much of having their
nails well cared for as they do their teeth.
The nails are susceptible of an exquisite pol
ish, and when symmetrical in form, FREQ from
all blemish, and rejecting IA lustrous tint can
truly be admired, | am sure that if you had
your own treated short time, you would find
them blessed with beauty you do not now
dream they possess"
MILLIONS IN SAND.