The Russellville Democrat., 1883-02-01
Black Cashmere, camel's-haIr, Etc.

A nice black wool dress has become almost indispensable in ladv's outfit- and is valued alike by the young md oil- For young the present fancy is to brighten black dresses with facinps and vests of col1red cashmere, or to wear an entire basque of gay color, or else Jersey waist, but the greater number of black wool dresses are now made in the simple styles adopted for cloth dresses, as these are more serviceable because less likely to go out of fashion. and are inexpensive because they re- quire no trimming but stitching. or else very simple braiding. The cashmere of nice quality, and jet black without a blue cast, is of itself so pleasing fabric that trimming is not needed to enhance its beauty, but the tubular braids, many rows of soutache, or small quantity of galloon made of twisted cords, or some velvet folds are generally added to camel hair dresses. If combination is liked better, or there arc partly worn skirts of last season to be remodeled, the wool goods is used for panier pol onaise or pelisse with revers, cuffs and collar of the material of the skirt The Jersey webbing that is sold by the yard is also purchased for waist to be used with woolen skirts; in sim gle widths this is now sold for Sl.50 yard, and is made up with few seams, and more snugly fitted than less elastic fabrics, as it clings and expands with the figure. Some young ladies add a collar, wristbands, and sash of dark red. bright Turkey red, or turquoise blue cashmere to com plete these waists; the buttons are usually black and very small. Plush that is no longer the first fashion, is now used for the skirt, with camel g. hair for the over dress. The skirt may be perfectly plain, with, narrow box plating of camel s-hair at the foot, or it may have some lengthwise plaits ad- ded in the front or sides where the over-dress discloses it, or it may have most of its fullness in two great box plaits behind, and the cloth-like over- garment be cut with long side gores, and short position back that is cut ofl straight across on the tournure. This makes warm looking winter dress for ladies who do not find the tailor-made suits becoming. Tue woolen repped stuffs that are liked best have the reps lengthwise instead of across the fabric. because they are more easily cleansed by brushing downward; these are sim liar to what was formerly called Biar- ritz cloth. but the reps are more prom inent. Beaded trimmings are not liked for black wool dresses, the ladies who consider expense think it risk to buy jet trimmings. because they have been worn so long. The embroideries done on the fabric are liked for more costly black dresses of cashmere or of camel g. hair.
 The Henrietta cloths that were for. merly confined to ladies dressing in mourning are now used by those wear. ing color5 when a very rich fabric is de sired, and the trimming is the silk Span l ish lace with heavy corded designs oI | meshes of guipure. Shirring in broad | masses is no longer used on wooler skirts. though the slightly shirred scar | draperies, or the fronts of the basque shirred upon vest, are still popular | Tucks around the skirt and on the over skirt are more used even than last sea l son, and quite rival the lengthwist plaits. This is especially true of French dresses, as the Parisian dressmaker' have lately made the entire front ant side breadths of half-inch tucks in cash mere costumes not only in black, but il colors. The effect is that of horizonta braiding, and the edge is trimmed witt ruche or with narrow box plating Vests are worn in such varied shapel this season that they afford excellen
 ways of freshening up partly worl | basque. A velvet, corduroy, velveteer
 or brocaded velvet vest may be appro l priately added to almost any wool, ol silk, or satin basque. If the bottom
 and holes are frayed, Breton vest il most useful, as it is all in one piece l or may have seam down th' | middle, and can be sewed oI
 the right side with slight edgins of cord passementerie, and is lappes
 across to the left, where it is met b, similar trimming, and may be fastened | by hooks and loops, or there may be row of small buttons down each side | If the skirt front is also worn, a breadtl of velvet may be inserted there in simi
 lar fashion, and the vagaries of tn, | styles are such that bit of chenille O | jetted fringe may be used at the foot o
 this breadth, even though it does no |
 there is a fancy for leaving the wid
 side breadths without any trimming a
 the foot. no matter how elaborately thu
 other parts of the skirt may be trimmed
 If the Breton vest is not liked, ther,
 can be narrower vest put under seal
 lops of the dress waist, or with n ruch
 to conceal the join, or there may b.
 more masculine-shaped vest, witt
 double points in front and slits fo
 watch and change pockets. This yes
 is sewed in the under-arm seams, and
 often of brocade, with the cashmer
 front of the basque drawn back gradu
 ally from just beneath the collar. Tw,
 gathered frills of doubled ottoman sill
 or of satin. each an inch and hal
 wide, and both turned toward the lei
 side, and placed down the basque fror
 neck to waist line. are tasteful trim
 mings for any waist, and will concea
 the soiled front of dress of last year
 -Harper's Bazdr