Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1883-04-26
French Dresses.

NodlsteS who have 1ust returned from
Parls announce that there are no decided
changes IN the styles of new dresses, but
that there are many small features that
give an air OF novelty. Many of the ma
terlals also of last season are retained,
and combined with others that are new;
for instance, satins are by no means out
OF fashion, and in the new colors form
the principal part of some of the most
elegant dresses, brocades also appear again,
and are especially favored by Worth,
who uses them in large outline designs on
satin, ottoman reps, and grenadine, and
IN smaller figures on checked silk
grounds. The richest and softest colors
are seen IN the new dresses, and indeed
color prevails almost to the exclusion of
black, making it difficult to find entirely
black dresses, as it is the French caprice
to Introduce amid the black either white
or one OF the new red shades-strawberr
raspberry, chauldron or fame-or else
the deep mandarin or other yellow tints.
Short dresses abound, and in the entire
importatiOns of some of the largest
houses not one full train is seen, the
deml-train making the only Yaria-
ton from round skirts that
escape the floor. These short
skirts, whether of costly or of inexpen-
sive fabrics, whether elaborately or SIM
ply draped, are almost invariably made
on narrow foundation skirt, with cas-
ings across the back for steel or bone
springs. A cushion filled with hair is
placed just below the belt and above the
springs in many imported dresses, but
this Is unwhOlesOme and warm, and it is
far better to arrange there bouffant dra-
peries of lighter weight.
The fOunces on such skirts depend
upon the arrangement of the drapery
above for their depth, but they are alike
all around the skirt, and though very
simple must. be very full, and give a
finish as Of border at the foot. Gath
cred trimmings are effective and fashion
able for summer dresses. Adouble ruffie
or ruche of satin or ottoman silk trims
the foot OF plain skirts; this may be
gathered by two rows in the middle,
making a frill Of the doubled bias mate
rial to turn each way, or else there may
be two double rutfies turned downward,
and tapping like two soft putfs. The lam
brequm hOunce in large festOOns makes
wide and elaborate trimming for thin stuffs
edged with lace; it is laid in box plaits
between each cure, and has an upright
heading of lace, fine plating or of gath
cred frills. BOx-plaitings, the round or
gan plaits, loosely flowing wide plaits,
fine plaits that are partly tucked, and
the pressed fat side plaits are all used
again.
For the draperies Madame Raymond
announces the revival of apron over-skirts,
fashion that has never entirely dssap-
peared here, and is seen on new dresses
with short wrinkled full breadths for the
slender, whose hips are too slight, or quite
long, with low draping, for those who
are more stout, while the diagonal Greek
apron is used for all, and is made espe-
cially becoming to slight figures by the
addition of the dropping puff about the
waist. There are also stylish straight
effects given to skirts by having three or
four wide plaits down each side opening
over a fiat front of another material that
has bows of ribbon almost covering it.
When the short basques are not used
with such skirts the plaits are transferred
to the front instead of the sides, and the
over-dress becomes a sort of demi-polo-
naise extending in long peplum points
quite plain on the hips and low on the
skirt, with some soft drapery added to the
middle of the back of the skirt to fill the
space between the peplum sides. Sleeves
signify DOuIlduG dC the LOp are d QGClU6u
feature of the new dresses, and there are
many very full cuffs and other trimmings
around the wrist, but these, as we'll as
lace frills, or the puffs and slashes, must
be very soft in order not to destroy the
outline of the arm. The basques of
Worth's dresses have two or three welt
ing cords on the edges, and are shorter
than those made by other dressmakers;
they are always broader in the back, with
always square corners, but fully plated
and puffed between, and with less atten-
ton to Innings and facingD than others
give; indeed, some of his arrangements
are eccentric as we'll as original, for he
often displays the selvedges of rich stufs
on conspicuous draperies on the bust or
on the front breadths of skirts. To finish
the neck and wrists, and to fill the
triangular, pointed, or square open necks,
soft cream tinted net like that of fine old
Malines lace is used in double puffs, and
sometimes very narrow velvet ribbon is
run in the top of these to tie them in
place. There are also very full frills
of three or four rows of crepe lisse seal
loped or in leaf points on the edges for
giving a touch of white around the neck,
but all these inner trimmings are now
very inconspicuous, only slight glimpse
of them being seen above the dress.-Har-
per's BGzaT.