Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-09-10

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nary operator without stitching il through,
| Which reduced the value for ornamental
! purposes. The difficulty has been partly met
.! IndAlhS braided trimmings in close passe-
menteIle designs, as before remarked and
arranging them so that they could be used
continuously IN sections, or as separate orna
ments. These are. of course, expensive if care
iully made and of pure material, and if not
they arc not worth using.
SOLID suits consist of a skirt as well as
redlngote of cloth, the front Of the former laid
IN upright DoX pleats and enriched through
the centre with rows of chain braiding, OF
with 'macaroons" of braid set CLOSELY to
gether, so as to form stripe of any required
length. The redingote is cut away from this
! front ana either forms draperied back or
opens to disclose it, the trimmings belnr re-
peated In jacket or cOllarette form upon the
bodlce, and sometimes upon the sides of the
coat.
THE TRIMMING OF CLOAKS AND JACKETS.
Braiding, however hHs never Deen as norma =
nent or as popular as 1t might have BEEN for
the reason that at accessible prices braided
garments and costumes have ALWAYS been
more less coarse and commonplace, and the
skill oil the sewing machine operator has not
sulhced 10 cover her stitches or enable her to
produce cOntraSted or artistic effects The ab-
sence OF these qualities in home made produc-
lions OF TINS description has been principally
felt IN the 0rnamentatiOn and finish of cloth
cjoaks and jackets. These are very readily
and effectively trimmed if the thick, narrow
''ierculeS' braid be set uO in knife bIadp NAT o.
supplementary designs and made secure with
out visible fastening. This, il is now believed
VIII be accomplished. a woman has irvented
Il braldlng attachment which does thc work
perfectly; and though it is too late to affect
the market for this season, il will probably
rcvOlutiOnlzc the process of ornamcptipr cIot il
and braid in the future.
Velvet trimming is TO be the ye,.,, fashiona-
bic tins season, particularly upon the all wool
checks, and the combinations of checks with
plam wool. A new design of this description
Is dark gray IN tone. the ground shade Of the
check matching the plain wool. The bodice
has folds of the check, which are crossed in
'front.' al the waist line and fastened with a
velvet strap or belt, from which arc suspended
yelNet straps thal form looping for the close
folds OF the panier, which, as well as the
drapely at the back, exhibits the plain mate
rial. The skirt IS of the check, with upright
panel of the PLAN upon the front. laid in
straight folds and alternating with broad box
pleais Of the checks. The sleeves AS well rs
the HoGicc are OF the checked material hut
there Is plain tucked vest of the plain, which
IS finished at the throat with a band and bow
of velvet and an upright pleating of the plain
" ool, inside of which is enc of pleatcd muslin
This, from one of the best houses, is an indica-
ton that velvet Will be used largely in the
composition or for the OrnamentatiOn OF wooden
costumes, and that the restoration of velvet
the most beautiful and becoming of all fab
rics. Is considered established.
One of the graceful new designs in costumes.
new not IN the sense of novelty, but of the
season, consists of very dark plum -colOrcd
over dress, looPcd high at the sides and orna-
mented with brandebOurgs down the entire
front over skirt formed OF fine double killings
fastened only part of the way down, and haV-
ing Ladder of heavy cords knOtted over them
at one side, and cord and tassel like a hell
rope upon the other.
y new tweed walking cloak. or ulster is
made with pleated back ana epauletted cane.
Hoods are a. so revived and are lined with the
brightest cOlOrs.
A REAL LOSS TO WOMAN.
aGi xgh hn baH
operative enterprise during its briefbut pleas
ant career will begin to realize their loss now
that the approach of the cold season demands
warm clothing. In three respects it offered
to them advantages they never had before SO
certainly or to the same extent. One of these
was IN the varied supply OF weIl-cut and
tailor maize costumes at moderate prices.
another was IN the practical character of the
cloak and outside garments, which are ALWAYS
one OF the most disturbing problems in the
whole range of the wardrobe and a third the
convenient reading and reception room which
no ury goods house in New York can now
afford Its customers. Lord & Tavlor insti
tuled one once, and discontinued if. Mr.
stewart started one just before his death buf
made show room OF it; but not single house
IN New J Ork does for its customers what
White, and Jordan, Marsh Il Co. of Boston
do Tor theirs, VIZ: provide a beautifully fitted
suite OF rooms, with attendants. baggage
room, writing facilities, balcony views and
every convenience and requisite for making
time pass agreeably, or for ladies living ont 0f
town. Doubtless, it is more of a necessity in
Boston, where ladies live so much more in the
suburbs than IN New \ Nork: still there are
sufficient number, one would think, 10 whom
such facilities would be a boon to make il an
object for some large dry goods house 10 suD-
Ply them' wen made cloth suits are at all
times inaccessible to the majority on account
of their cost. When strictly made and fin
ished they are either imported or supplied bv
some tailor dressmaker at as high rates as the
imported, ana there Is the complaint in the
latter that is foo rfo+
no regard IS paid to fashion,
THE STAGE AS Az EXAMPLE.
stage dressing exercises an enormous in1u-
ence upon ue ufess OF women in general,
whether Ior good or evil, and it is a pity that
TINS potent factor was not taken more LARGELY
into account and made to feel its resnonsi
bilty. Heretofore it has been either ieior.d
or praised or blamed without Discrimination
ana without any sense, or KNOWLEDGE Of Tho
illness or un1itness Of what was eulogiZed or
censured. The cost was the great point II
the wardrobe of an actress was made in Paris
and cost several thousand dollars IL ESas
taken 1Or granted that 1t must be sll.eFlatiyc
ana glowing eplthets were exhausted upon ii
accordingly. Ii will be curious 10 observe
the impression made by Miss Ellen Terry.
whose exquisite dramatic art is sunDle,npntcd
by an instinct for dress that amounts ~ a
sixth sense. No matter in what cbaracteI.
she appears, her dress always seens to bp an
absolute part OF 1t. and 70 belong to it so en-
tlrely that one could not imagine il clothed in
any other gaFh -
The dresses designed for the Character Of
~ era" IN Mr., Oscar Wilde's pIav OF that
name, show an excellent eve for color and
much refinement of taste. The evening toiIat
of magnificent brOcade, flesh tinted snd
covered with grOupes of large flowers hold
loosely together, IS looped At The sides ovcra
rich petticoat of Ottoman satin, the looming
effected by heavy silk cords from which are
suspended on one side an open pocket 6llnd
with flowers. There is a pleasant tIress
which Is perfection in its way. 80 simnIe ami
charming in color, with its sk int of noococL
Dlue; Its bodice. tie upper mart brown fhe
lower showing shaded stripes, and the white
waist with its fun sleeves. The black and
gold disguise Is aCademic-yerv graceful ami
very different from the ordinary do,niao
Ahd there Is a classic dress and mantle In two
shades OF red that would make a suitable
garb for the fair Helen Of TrAy
FIT THE CHARACTER AS WELL AS FIG1-RF
Ihere IS more than satisfaction, there is an
intellectual pleasure In finding dress that
really means something, that fits its wearer
IN more than the merely mechanical sense
thou8n, indeed, that Is not to be dcsnised-
that, in short, possesses artistic character
which means that it speaks for itself natural,
ly, ana says 10 more than it means The
stage ~ one form OF art ought to preserve To
us ouF ideals or furnish them if they are Iosf
IT Is not exclusively a trade or means ~
making money. Constantly before the guhIic
actors and actresses should be stinHlated to
9e always AT their best, and women have the
double opportunity Gt suuplemontino thc
mimic art with the arr of dress, and Of Show
ing otheF women what can be done i'm the
way Of making 1t medium of varied express
sion,
English women, it has been tbousht .o,,Id
teach American women nothing ~ regard TO
dress. Nor can they so far 80 the oonvenfjon
allsm OF fashion Is concerned, or the frequent
changes, oi which they care little but they
are muCh more courageous and truthful IN
following out an idea or presenting \ t,ne
and can therefore teach us much in regard t9
lne expression OF character through Che me-
dress III ar cd fEo
costume Photograph Of an English actress
IatelY AttfaCseq 0RlVeFsai attention in
Bfo3tsMaY window from the free expressive
carriage OF the stately figure whose Ilroes az
white brocaded satin was covered WITH = Iong
black cloak of figured plUS! elasned al ihe
threat and held open LY tbe arm in motion
and the whole action of the ngure-its hoautv
ana slmple elegance suggesting Dorothy Yer.
non Us she opened the door upon tho .;ploes-
auace' at Haddon Hall, when she esgaged
from her home TO marry her lover. EarI fShn
Manners. 1t Is not probable ;iiaI this was
just what was meant put this or something
AKIN was what was suggestet-and if is some
tLhlhg :. sl5gsest character and story by
orpssa hantlesor a turn of the head y,oi,o
ment Of the arm and a glimpse Of a goat ON.
DG9ied lnstantaneously in Z l.hOtograph,
Ihere VIII be grGat deal Of c6stnUe and
character stt'iYlng du1ing tho coming winter.
Ior Ssjojefy = distressed Si being considered
lnane and y wants 81 get up reputation for
ldeas. It Will therefore ransack libraries and
investigate the poets for materials t. work
upon. But it takes brains TO p5cpeEiy use
brains, and If all the poet. ti.at fall into the
clutches OF society s,re ss eOliGlotely tenuded
Of the beauty aEdYeJy essence OF their thought
IS aome that have been experimental UPON
heletofare, the gain 10 art in any direct Ion
will not DO greaI.
MORERN NFc-SsgTY.
In the meantiG;1 tbere are ladies whom ,he
question x tlres5 does not greatly eIisinrh
wlO order their annual waking dress -
Of wool, Visiting stre4s of velvet.
and dinner og evening dress of satin
or brofAife without troubling themselves
ahqEt Ainor changes, leaving an that IN -
seLtled hv \ cOmDetent dressn . - D. W , -