Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-10-27
FASHION WRINKLES.
CIOAKs AND JACKETs-THE NEW COLO s-THE
VELVET SEASON. TOURNURE OF SOME KIND.
ETC.


ETC.
NEWMARKET jackets. both long and short, are
again in high vogue
THE blouse bodice ranks next to the Camargo
bodice in popularity.
HOOP earrings. set with diamonds and other
Jewels, are very fashionably worn.
CLOTH tcques, and velvet jockey caps will be
worn with costumes Of cloth and OF velvet.
VERY becoming suits for boys of or are in
different varieties of flannel. and have blouse
waists laced with silk cord and full-plaited
skirts.
STYLISH dress for little girl is in plain
Gilbert sacking, with side-pIaited skirt. The
waist is i'll the form OF a cutaway jacket, with
pockets, collar and cuffs of velvet, while the
skirt is of bright colOred plaid.
FASHIONABLE colors this season have some
peculiar names, as Russian Pschutt elephant
gray, ear brown, royal French blue. Moscow
green and violet purple. TO say nothing of man
Garins, mousse and C0Ssack blue. 4 decided
preference is shows for everything Russian.
THE most serviceable wooden materials for
home wear are cashmeres. SaxOny flannel and
meriHo- Any one of these can be made up styl-
ishiy and inexpensively either with tight
fitting basque and draped skirt or with long
polonaise over a plated skirt. such soft mate
Elais falling In specially graceful folds.
DAINTY and uncommon bonnets are in dark
English brads and felts. the former handsomely
trimmed with richly-colored fall flowers and
fruits, the latter showing velvet crowns and
pulled brims with trimmings OF fluffy feather
tips and jcwelcd ornaments. the velvet and tips
being usually of decidedly bright color
CLOTH JACKETS are now much worn by misses.
but smaller girls look better in listers pessps,
and long sacque cloaks with deep capes or with
cOachman collars. These outside garments are
made in plain striped. check pladed or mixed
cloth, are simply stitched about the edges or
may be trimmed with collar. cuffs and pockets
oil yeiVeteen or OF velvet.
CLoAKs are to he worn long this season. and
are made high upon the shoulders many ofthem
with small dolman shaped sleeves The most
elegant are of Ottoman satin. lined with plush
and richly figured and embroidered plush lined
with quilted satin. Others. less expensive. are
in diagonal cloth. that requires no lining and is
simply trimmed more or less deliberately with
braid.
ALTHOUGH no success has attended the effort
to relntrOduce the Old-fashiOned hustle tour
nure of some kind is indispensable to the fit of
wel-made tailor suit. Flounced petticoats are
worn for this purpose or series of little horse
hair hOunceS are mounted upon wnaiebOne
frames to serve the purpose. and are found more
suitable than either the hOrsehair cushion or eX-
tension skirt. As skirts are not made very full
there Is not elegance in spreading them out.
PLAIN VELvETs will be comparatively little
worn this season. A novelty exhibited in Paris
is known as valours glace. and is of the nature
of short pile plush scantily strewn over satin
foundation: IT is shown i'm all the deep rich tone
OF amaranth, famarind. mandarin and mousse
as well as in black. Serges ladies' CLOTH drap
DIES Indies and flannels are all made now in the
same style to give an idea of relief and are made
up with plain materials to harmonic or contrast
10 color.
WORTH USES BROCADEs on which the designs
are positively gigantic. Thus on one superb
black costume from his atelier the design is
alternately oak branches and hydraneeas each
branch measuring % inches in length. The
basque and skirt front are of this immense
brocade, ard the figures are matched with
superlatiye skIll. doing away altogether with
the p!eced effect which one would suppose to be
unavoidable In making up bodice from such a
fabric.
SKIRTS are fuller all round and are less gored
than they We're a few seasons ago and a very
pretty way of arranging a skirt is to compose it
OF wide, plain breadths Joined by killing This
mas somewhat the appearance of very large box
pleats without the thickness and consequent
waste of materials. Part of the killing should
De arranged exactly In front. SO as to be framed
rs 1t were. by two plain breadths kAfs and
waterfalls for back drapery are still i'm vogue,
but the newest method is to have a deem ruflle
headed by still deeper full puff
MANY HANDSOME WINTER DRESSES aretrimmed
with handmade embroidery. Cloth designs ap-
piiqued upon cloth are very popular. and such
costumes are made up in one color, the design
being shade darker than the grotlna. and the
SILK used In putting on the applique being still
darker In some instances the raised design is
seen as in chain stitch thick loselle or pure silk
oelng used for the purpose. and aiding very
much in the raised appearance of the pattern.
Sometimes a variation is given by APPLYING the
design with two or three rows of stitching i'm
shaded sllk, carrying it out i'm such way that
the effect of light and shade is conveyed by it.
SLAsIIING is decided feature Of the season
Some dresses have the draperies slashed for
two inches; others two feet. One of Grange ct
Magenties dresses has the tablier of intagljo
brocade. slashed in three panels to the knee.
win ians OF narrow corded rhadZimir silk in
between Above this is a short square apron of
OrOcade. fringed with silk and chenille balls
The back drapery is an ipdescribable arrange
ment Of rhadzimir. lined with brocade. and
heid IN sort of jabOt, forming a very bouffant
tOurnure. The basque has a full Moliere vest of
rhadZmir, and the side forms are long termi-
mating in sharp points. The sleeves are high
and pulled on the shoulder. like most of the
new sleeves.
VELVET will be the rage for this and NE COM
Ing season The handsOmest of the imported
costumes in velvet for autumn wear are totally
untrinmed save in the matter of buttons which
to make up for this simplicity of style. are often
very beautiful and very expensive. Silver is the
iav0rite metal for these buttons-the DESIGNS
copied frequently from buttons worn in the time
or George |, and those worn at the cour' i Louis
XVI. Some of these are very chaste but are
nevertheless said to be excellent limitations OF
the genuine article. Many of these buttons are
studded with half-preciOus stones. and appear
10 great advantage upon the fronts and large
pocket flaps of the Old Guard waistcoat now so
tashionaby worn.
Jane, Jr.