Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1883-04-27
A JAPANESE EELICACY.


The ,;e,,,,. or uroiI,,. r.,.,, rho c,,,
of Toi,io-.-A peep into am Orienta
Kitchen.
From "Thc Golden Lotus and oMer Legends o
Jal"n'"by Edward Grcry.l
On the street called Okiyo-kOgc (Hipl
Resting Place of the Mikado), in Toxic
is n restaurant "whero persons can enio,
the supreme delight of broiled cells
This establishment ls kept by ma,
named Nnroki. and is we'll worth n visit
Most foreigners profess to dislike ma.
tive food and never ATTEMPT to overcom,
their repugnance. while others boldly
taste everything offered them. md sooi,
learn TO appreciate the perfect cookery
and dainty service Cf the Jpauese. nnd
prefer their dishes to the eternal same.
ness of our own.
One nfternuon in April | was strollinp
about the streets. engaged in WATCHING
the interesting Occupation, of the people.
when mot n youun .JuDuuese who had
been educated at Harvard, and who ap-
precinted n slice off the breast of can
yas-back duck and n tenderloin steak MS
perfectly as zone TO the manner born. -
Having politely saluted me. lie remark.
ed
Il am on nv way to NIuroki's. Would
YOU like to ioin me in a feast of broiled
cells Ii is said that this month the ltna-
al is n fit morsel for the gods"
"Inagi ," / replied, with q somewhat
dubiou. shake of the head II never was
yery fond of those marine snakes"
"Probably you have never tasted them
prepared by my coum:rymcu," he slyly
returned. "I remember once eating some
ut Delmouico's tshu,idering). They were
soft. fiayorless morsels, enclosed in a
uuivcring Jelly. Come along with me
and partalie OF dish, the tastc Of which
will be pleasantly remembered long after
You return to America. You, who are
half japanese, ought not any longer to
remain ignorant of one Of cur chief deli
cacies.
Summoning jia-rikG-Sha, we soueez-
ed into il in the economical fashion, and
after n brief ride turned into the Okiyo.
kOgc inacH (streeD and aiighted at the
entrance to AIaroki's cstab!ishment-a
two-storied building. the lower apart
ment Of which was furnished with grated.
prison-like windows. In the entrance
were the proprietor and his wife, who, as
VIC paid cur jih-riki.sha man, prostrated
themselves, bowed their heads ON the
boards and murmured-
"Thousand welcomes to our humble
place !" then rising awaited our pleas.
ure.
"Are the ecls good to-day ?" patroniz-
inply inquired my friend II have heard
that their flavor is not quite what it used
to be. Do YOU procure them from the
city canals. or are they from the Sumida
River ?"
The proprietor again bowed then
tvitchei the left corner of his month
after tho fashion Of n Jananese uttering n
Joke. and answered.
"Honorablo sir do Won for moment
imagine / sbould ofrer canal bred cels r.
,nch n inloe MS vourself9 No mo . Won
know flat I have n high rcnutation. and
buy nothing but the most beautiful eels
that come from tbe Sumido Remem
berinq that the time was near for Won tc
nov ms n visit 7 have saved some of The
iinest fish Won, ever saw Would Won like
TO come into the kitchen nnd insnrcl
them ."
"IIoi" gently added his wife. who had
listened to hig sneoch with downcost ewes
"tbot is go We have some onls ~ for
dniolio" "
"WLat Dc Won eay?" inouired nv com.
na,,inn "Would Won like ia visit tLa
culinary dcpartment?"
"Not until | have diued."I answered
shifting snspiciously at the faint odor OF
daikon (pickled radish) that issued from
n rear apartment. "You know the old
proyerb. "Do not make the acquaintance
of the cook until the feast is over n
relish The eelu. | NAV fcei like learning
how thoy are prepared for the table"
We slipped off our clogs and followed
our hostess up broad ladder TO the fioor
above. which was divided by slidino
screens of paper into n number of apart.
ments. Here we were greeted by lcore
of cbubby.facel. cherry-lipped. neatly.
dressed attendants. who knelt and wei.
coined MS with profound bows.
(Which room do you prefer ?" said tn,
mistress. "Ihis is not a busy hour and
most of the apartments are vacant"
Nv companion thought n while. n,
though deciding an important matter
then laughtily replied