Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-08-04

Fashions at an Eastern Watering
Place-A Yachting Party and Their
Costumes Curious Contrasts - A
Glimpse Of Fashions at Newport.

Place-A Yachting Party and Their
Costumes Curious Contrasts -
Glimpse Of Fashions at Newport.
From Our Own Correspondent.
POLAND SPRINGS, Me-, August 3.
Poland Springs is not exactly fashionable
watering place, although it is visited by some
fashionable people, particularly Bostonians, but
it has wide, beautiful views, magnificent noun
tain air, without being exactly in the mountains,
and water that is a specific for many modern
ills. SO the men who discovered it years ago and
experienced its kindly influence returned with
their families and have gradually transformed
what was once Maine farm and generous
homestead to summer cave" with hotel.
that can be seen from lake or road for miles
around and is the architectural feature of the
landscape.
Travelling presents no difficulties nowadays
East or west the Pullman palace car and the
ready transfer enable women to go any distance
with as much ease and as little fatigue as would
be felt in staying at home. In fact the protec-
ton from dust and the incidents of weather
may be even more complete. This modern re-
suit of science and skill has changed the aspect
of the tourist class and gotten rid largely of
the vast impedimenta of travel: wraps dust
cloaks, wells. ulsters. special dirt-cOncealing
and Wear-reststing costumes, and the like
What is suitable dress for the street lis a suita-
Ole one Tor the cars. and. instead of the plain
brown linen listers and busters which were
unnecessarily 'hideous there are listers that are
practically walking suits. and wraps that are
becoming and graceful at the same time that
they are protective. The new conditions like
all others, have their good and bad side; there is
more variety to be seen in travelling dress but
also more lncongruity and less of certain fit
ness, for there are persons who are quite desti-
tute of any sense of what Is suitable and are
only properly provided when custom or the au-
thOrlty in their world demands certain conditions
OF them
1t is quite curious to see the extreme oppo-
siteness OF Ideas in regard to what is necessary
for trip of several hundred miles to a SPOT in
southern Maine less than q thousand feet above
Underwater. One stout, aforementioned lady
recilnes in her velvet-COvered chair in close
admirably fitting dress Of dark cashmere with
out ible wrap or shawl and leaves the train
without luggage. save book and small satchel.
"A party OF four. on the cOntrary-twO gentle
men and two ladies-the latter stout and tall
and well conditioned, also. are burdened with
enough shawls. ulsters. jackets, knitted scarfs,
and cOntrivances for individual comfort, to meet
all the emergencies OF a voyage across the At
iantlc, and apparently do not need any of them,
for though they are scattered about and cost
an infinity Of trouble in collecting again, they
are never put to use One dainty lady wears a
SIX cloak made like wrapper, with square
plat and finished with bow of ribbon. the
front gathered, but the whole hanging loose
from the yoke without belt or form except 80
much as can be obtained from the fitted sides.
THE "HOLOKU."
These square-cut gowns are a feature of the
season, and their varied use indicates the
loose and inexact ideas which prevail in
regard to what Is fitting and proper in
dress for different times and occasions
have called the square yOked dress the
''holoku." because it is made like the summer
house and verandah dress of the Sandwich
Island women who give this name to it, But
even there 1t Is a house costume and not in
tenued 1Or or worn upon the street. Here it
was nrst introduced asa morning gown, scarcely
admissible beyond the precincts of the dressing
ROOM but by curious twist or perversiOn of
Ideas it got started, and fltering through many
different craniums comes out cloak, street
dress, an evening toilet, or travelling cos
tune, as the case may be.
One lady at well known summer resort haa
had every dress in her summer wardrobe made
In this manner, and all according to the original
pattern-that is. with square yoke and loose
flowing skirt. Among them is a cream cOlOred
nun yelling with alternate lace and satin stripes,
a pink Bingham, red surah an electric blue
chuddah cloth. and black silk. which last has
decidedly clerical effect. There is something
original and peculiar about the adoption of this
uniform style, and the care in selection of ma
terials, and a certain appropriateness to the
wearer almost justifies its assumption for all
purposes; but it does not excuse the appear
ance upon public streets and in public convey
veyances of lOw-cut pink and blue dresses with
white tucked and needle worked yOkes, the
skirt sometimes loose. sometimes belted down
or tucked up, the vatican effect emphasized by
floating ribbons.
A YACHTING PARTY ASHORE.
began by saying that Poland was not FASH
ionable watering-place. The society here scom-
posed largely of business people-sold men
from New York, Boston, Portland, and other
cities, and their families; the men doing penance
by drinking large quantities of water for the
good dinners they have eaten the women try
ing to recover from the fatigue and nervous
anxiety of nothing to do. The place is we'll
adapted for the cure Of these opposite ailments
1t Is stimulating and assimilatve; but eccen-
tr1clty or extravaganza of any kind is rare
among the conventional class. and the dude
and dudeen are unknown. Outbreaks are lin
tied to such mild forms of insanity as red hosi-
cry and red umbrellas, red Japanese hats and
mixtures of Kate Greenaway Charles l.. and
the Princess-in-the-TOwe in the dress Of child
rem. The girls nowadays, anywhere and every
where, cannot help but be pretty, in their blue
or Wine-colored jersey, their kits and their nuns
vellngs, their large hats and graceful outlines
undisfgured by any unnatural protuberance,
when the popular Jersey protects them from;
but the mammas are not usually happy or pic
turesque looking. They are Overweighted by
conscience, which makes them wear their old
clothes; by dread Of servants or no servants: by
sympathy for woes that they cannot ameorate
or that will not be ameliorated. and by respon-
sibilities which lay around loose in their own or
other peoples families. and which the proper
owners do not burden themselves with
Imagine the advent upon such an assemblage
OF yachting party gotten up in the highest
style of art. and which. stranded off the coast
by an accident, determined to take the stage
coach as one horn out of their dilemma and
spend their enforced absence from the craft in
drinking Poland water. But it must be said
That the gentlemen quite Outshone the ladies in
striking effects and originality, or perhaps it is
because men in general look SO much alike that
any departure from custom is more marked in
them than in women. These latter were three
In number-a mother and daughter and niece.
The mother was the type SO often seen i'm the
New York Academy OF Music on opera nights
large, coarse, arfd prOfusely fringed and jetted.
The young ladies were slender and one wore a
braided suit, which only Redfern could turn out;
the other bottle green kilt, elastic Jersey, and
red sword sash and cap. The sash was the sty-
lish doubled one OF knitted silk. with knotted
fringed ends, and the cap knitted also, with tas-
seled top turned over like an old-fashioned
night cap. The gentlemen wore knickerbock-