The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1883-04-17
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions

The nantes Of latest Importation are
shorter than any hitherto seen, some Of them
being the merest scarfs, scarcely reaching
the waist line, and Others not deeper than
shoulder capes. The chic of all these, no
matter whether they are scarf mantles or
pelerines, depends on their bigh-shouldered
effect, which is given by inserting side pieces
by seams that cross the shoulders and ex-
tend down the back and front precisely like
those of regular dolmans. Although inten-
ded for summer, many of these mantIes are
of velvet, and it is the fancy to have them in
colors-ruby, corn1ower blue, or green.
They are trimmed with long palms, or point
ed leaves Of "solid'' jet, pointing downward
from the neck, and are edged with thick
ruches of black lace, which is either real
thread lace or the French imitation thereof.
A very full high ruche or DirectoIre collar
of lace or of jetted net is around the neck,
and long ribbon strings, to be tied by the
wearer, are the only fastening Cherry-col-
ored China Grape with brocaded flowers is
one Of the fashionable materials for such
NANTES, and there are many high shoul-
dered round capes Of colored satin under
black net which is thickly jeLted and edged
with lace ruches. These colored nantes
can only be used, however, by those who
have variety of wraps, and the preference
for those who have but one still remains for
black mantle Of ottoman silk, Sclienne,
jetted net or China Grape made like those
just described. Jet trimmings are on many
of these handsome black wraps, and there
are some with gilt and steel introduced In
the ornaments; the satin cord passemente-
ries also trim dull silk wraps elegantly.
The novelty for cloth mantIes Is
fecked cloth showing all the coIors
of India cashmere shswls massed.on ground
Of repped wool, or with rough surface like
that Of camers hair. These are intended
for simple garments to be worn with any
dress They are simply edged with cord
of passementerie showing all the colors in
the cashmere, and there is an ornament on
the back which also combines these colors.
Ecru, tan color and gray cloths Of light
quality, and the checked wool cloths used
by tailors, are made up In similar designs
For midsummer mantles Of grenadine will
be worn both In colors and black, the latter
being frightened by gay Innings. The velvet
brocaded grenadines are most used for these,
and contrasting color is made TO outline
the large velvet figures of the grenadine.
The Scotch Bingham dresses remain In
favor because they wash well, and are now
imported in very large plalds,. small checks,
stripes and plain coloIs. To be useful these
should be simply made, and there is less en-
broidery used on those made TOR next sum-
mer than has been the case In former sea-
sons, because this embroidery wears out be-
fore the bingham does. Some oil the new
dresses confine the large plaids to the skirts,
as they are too large to look well when cut
UP by the many seams Of basques. Inc
lower skirt is usually LAID 10 large pleats,
with a special part Of the plaid placed on
top of each pleat; the short wrinkled apron
dranerv then displays the plaid In Its full
size and the basque Is made Of a plain-col-
ored bingham Of the color that prevails In
the Maid The basque is short and pointed,
and has vest of the large plaid, either
puffed or plain, with notched reyers in Di-
rectoire, style of the plain color, each SIDE OF
the vest. Some very gay plaids like scotch
tartans are used In these skirts. The very
long aprons with many folds and pointed to
the foot in back and front are also on ging-
ham dresses. Some of The wide loose
pleated skirts have a narrow knife-pleated
fril sewed to the edge of the large pleats at
the foot. Another pretty fancy is shirred
bias puff to trim the neck, wrists and edge
! OF gingham basques. For those who like
| still simpler Bingham dresses there are two
or three gathered founces on the SKIRT
plain round overskirt, and belted basque
made with narrow tucks down the middle of
the front and back; these can be made