Wessington Springs herald. (Wessington Springs, Aurora County, Dakota [S.D.]) 1883-1891, 1883-03-31
Manner Of Making New Suits.

The reader will be glad to know that
dresses made last year can be easily
altered into the new styles, and this will
probably always be true as long as the
sensible plan Of combining two materials
prevails. There are also designs that suit
the slender and designs for the stout, and
these are seen both in the basques with
over-skirts and in the varied polonaises.
The basques are positions with pointed
fronts, very short sides, and plated
square backs that may be varied in the
fullness Of the plaits to suit the size of
the wearer, those for the stout being
pressed fatty and heightened slightly on
the hips, while for the slender they have
hollow organ plaits, futed box plaits, or
else Topped bows of doubled material put
on to give a full effect, yet generally
preserving square outlines. The sharp
ly pointed fronts of basques are thought
to be becoming to both large and small
figures, but for very slight frames their
beauty is enhanced by having pulled over
skirts that give greater roundness just
below the belt. The front of the basque
is single-breasted usually, but sometimes,
when a narrow pointed velvet vest is in
serted, there is an effect of double breasts
given by two rows of buttons. There
are a great many vests worn, and among
these are Directorie vests and the Conti-
mental styles sloping wide below the
waist, and finished at the top with a very
deep square-cornered collar that fastens
low on the bust, while there is a standing
collar to the plastron inside. The mill
tary standing collar with square corners
that nearly meet, or even touch without
tapping, is seen instead of .that with the
curved corners so long in vogue. These
are an inch and a quarter high, and may
be of velvet, or of the cashmere nearly
covered with rows of soutache, or it may
be Of the ottoman used in combination,
finished with a cord or piping fold. The
old fashion of covering a thick welting
cord with the dress material or that of
the trimming, and finishing the edges
of the basque with it, is revived. The
new and pretty turned-over collars are a
compromise between the rolling Byron
collar and the standing bands, as they
both stand up and turn down. They
stand as high as a military band, and are
turned over all around; they are rolled
over as deep as an inch and a quarter in
front, and nearly a third of an inch be-
hind. This is a pretty way of using two
materials. having, for instance, plaid Of
toman silk for the outside, with velvet
turned over upon it from the inside.
Sleeves remain of the close coat shape,
following the line of the arm very closely
until they come to the shoulder, where
they are enlarged and rounded to stand
out and above the armhole. The padded
roll introduced last wear comes in the
s sb ty;s 2; Of aim almost sdi all J French reno s dresses "a and I'd
seven inches long that gives a high curve
to the sleeve, and keeps it. in place. The
trimmings for the front of corsages are
the passementerie and u ga%rnitures,
vests, and full plaitsand shirred plastrons
in square, oval, or triangular shape; these
plastrons are of satin or of ottoman silk,
either quite plain Or in blocks, checks, or
plaids.-Harper's Bazar.