Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-09-08
From Our Own Correspondent.

Dresses-WOven Garments
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, Sept. There is q universal
complaint among the buyers who have returned
from Europe as well as among those who cater
to the varying taste for clothes at home that
there is nothing new" mo novelties Of" only
attempts to put a somewhat different face upon
Old acquaintance or merely call them by
another name. This is, Of course, perfectly
natural and in fact inevitable state of things
the limits by which the majority are bound are
soon reached and changed, except as asee-saw-
or forward and back from left to right is diff
cult and sometimes impossible.
The problem which the desire for novelty
presents to the distracted caterer on the part OF
those who cannot pay for it, results in the queer
Jumbies and monstrOsites which appear in
color and design, in fabric and in head gear.
Fortunately the making of cloths and silks of
cOttOns and linens. is fixed by the possibilities
OF looms and machinery, and the absolute
necessity of abiding by what they can turn out
in the way of elemental material until such time
as genius invents new methods. Novelty,
therefore, consists only in little more or less
silk color-a little more or less silk, cotton or
wOOl-a different combination of these factors,
and as much change In design as will make the
fashion plates OF this year look different from
THE SURVIVAL OF FILTER AND FTrTEsT.
Women who have control Of sufficient means
and the inclination to spend it on dress are few
in number. While possessed Of larger liberty
OF choice, they are usually governed by more
refined and experienced taste, and by certain
conventional ideas which are scarcely known,
much less fully recognized beyond the limits of
a circle. There is another class possessing money
and inrr t4ol -
OF scruples and restrictive delicacy; and of this
are the women who usually stand as the repre-
sentatives OF fashion. whose extravaganza and
sensatiOnalism. fed by doubtful class of men,
are made the synonyms of American woman
hood. This false estimate is all the more hurt
full and mischievOus because it affects the minds
OF young girls and furnishes them with bad
example when they need high ideal lowering
their standard below the average when they
should be inspired by every possible influence to
raise it to higher level Notwithstanding all
drawbacks. however, the actual science of dress
is gaining;the survival ofthe 1ttest helps here as
In what are considered more important matters
There are constant additions to the stock Of per-
manent ideas, and the 'revivals' which fire.
quently take place are in the line of that which
has adapted itself to the general requirements,
rather than Of folly, excentricity, and extrava-
gance.
You cannot get rid of the walking skirt, the
polonaise. the cape, the ulster. the walking
jacket or the whOle-dress, because they are con-
venient and adaptable; while the basque, though
cut up and down. in and out, has survived with
out an interregnum for upwards of thirty years.
and was then simply evolved or "evOluted" from
the bodice with a short separate skirt, shaped
and attached; and this from the ancient ''short-
gown" which still survives in the house and
dressing sacque, but has been improved by
shaping.
1t is always difficult to make dealers In or
makers OF women's clothing believe that any
idea can obtain permanent place. They know
nothing of the law of development; and that, no
matter how greatly retarded by ignorance and stu
pidlty,t action is inevitable, even in so shifting
and changeful an arena as that occupied by mod
ern dress. They particularly dislike the advent
OF useful ideas, as these mean less money spent
and less dependence upon their authority.
WOVEN GARMENTS.
The finest and most far-reaching development
Of modern times, In the way OF garments for
women, consists In the woven garments Of silk,
WOOL aud silk and wool. which come in the
form of underwear, capes, jackets and jerseys
The idea of woven garments, or garments formed
of elastic cloth, is not by any means epheme-
raj. 1t is bound to grow. Already it produces
caps, capes, leggings. basques, petticoats, vests
and complete underwear, the whole garment
covering the body evenly, and being finished in
one piece.
Persons who know how near human perfec-
tion these union garments have been brought,
how we'll they are shaped how soft to the
touch, how sanitary in their protecting and
healthful influence, will make no change in this
respect at least, because change means loss and
misfortune when you have got just what you
want for your purpose.
a revelation. For the first time in their lives
they could use their arms freely when they were
"dressed;" for the first time raise. wave them,
throw stone, hit ball, or in any other way
exercise them without pulling up, disarranging.
or dislocating some part of the machinery which
girded their arms and waists Does any one
suppose they are such idiots as to give up this
newly-acquired freedom? The jersey may dis
appear for time, though even that is not prob
able, but the woven garment, in that or some
other shape, will survive and save the multi
plicity of costumes, the necessity which has
heretofore existed for special dress for boat
Ing or ball-playing, for gymnastic training or
any healthful exercise whatever, and has greatly
hindered the practice Of active games and useful
arts by the majority Of girls.
HEALTHFUL AND HELPFUL SCHOOL DRESS.
One of the most gratifying signs of progress
is the general awakening in regard to school
dress 1t has heretofore been considered
enough to discourage a lavish display of jew
elry, but girl could be thinly clad in cold
weather; she could change from thick wool to
thin silk; she could encase her arms in skim
tight sleeves and pull her dresses together
within quarter of an inch Of her lfe-and no
one thought of protesting against her folly.
But gymnastics in schools have accomplished
something; they have established the fact that
in the ordinary dress the girl cannot raise or
use her arms, and it has at last dawned upon
teachers and intelligent mothers that she ought
to be able to use them elsewhere than in the
gymnasium. The appalling fact that there is
barely single strong healthy woman or girl left
in these United States has at last suggested
that there may be some connection between
health and dress; between dress and develop
ment; between the universal 'neryes'' and the
universal anxieties, worries and tortures that
assail women in regard to the ever recurring
problems of their clothes. We talk of dress
as frivolous" 1t is the most serious question
in the woman's life Of to-day. and no girl or
woman can accomplish any important work or
purpose who has not practically settled it for
herself
The principal Of one Of the most fashionable
schools in New York will not permit her pupils
to wear q dress Of any material save wool OF
cottOn-the fOrmerin winter; the latter in milder
weather, II they choose Agirl wearing velvet
suit one day was sent home with q message
that her dress must be changed to one adapted
for school wear. The mother Of the girl returned
a reply that it was a last years suit which must
be utilized or it would be Outgrown. The
teacher was infiexible. She said the school