Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-10-06
FASHIONS FOR THE FALL,
JENNY JUNE THE AUTHORITY
ON THE SUBJECT.

ON THE SUBJECT.
Some Beautiful Novelties in Genuine
TailOrM Made Suits-The Latest Faneies
in the Decorative Department-Fas-
.einatiOns in Head Gear-The Rage in
Sleeves and Arms.
Correspondence Of tie Aorafng Nelcs.
NEW YORK, Oct. 5.-Fine wool is so lovely
! lor wear, so sanitary in its effects, that il is
peasant to see how largely it is pressed into
Vhe service Tor autumn suits and outdoor gar
n'ehts' rms we owe to the introduction by
wealthy travelled" women of the English
tauor-made suit, and its gradual adoption
among us. Within the past few wears several
fashionable tailors have added ladies' depart-
ments to their establishments where genuine
ailor-fnished costumes are modelled after
those of Redfern or Benjamin or Cohbe of
London-and fitted with the same care and
eXaetness. The fashions in these differ but
niue from year to year, and here show less
| variety than abroad, for the number of pur-
chasers IS restricted, and consists largely of
ladies distinguished for quiet. refined taste
who do not go into the ''fancy'' STYLES. which
are admissible for country houses, shooting
boxes. alpine climbing, and the various uses to
which tailor" suits are put by the fashionable
denlzens of the London world. The cost of a
good tailor made suit, well fitted and finished,
Is from $40 TO SI25-the difference in the fine
ness of cloth and quality of satin lining
rather than In cut, design or workmanship.
Ihe costume consists of four pieces-skirt
tunlc, basque, and outside coat made like a
Sentlemans frock coat. If a Newmarket
llOng coat was required the cost would range
from $l25 to $3.50. But for these prices begin
ning al $40 the fine cloth is mounted upon
SILK skirt lining, the basque is lined with pure
tWIlled SILK, and the coat with solid satin.
l ne lhish Is SILK feather stitching. and a soft
doubled galloon, which only forms cord
upon the edge where it Is used. The design is
varied to suit different tastes. but in genuine
tailor made suits everything is real-basques
ana clOakS have pockets which, though not
conspicuous, are put in with neatness and
soldity, and therefore can be used. Vests are
not simulated-they are vests (or waist coats,
ana nave convenient little pockets like those
OF men. The entire outfit is permanent in IFS
character, and though the price we have to
pay Tor 1t restricts its usefulness yet it is
uolng good work on the influence it eXer-
cIseS upon popular STYLES and the cultivation
of the tastes of the majority
rms influence is very marked this season.
Cloth dresses, cloth suits and cloth Jersey
jackets are adopted by the best class of people
ana cloth cloaks, so long neglected for silk and
'fur-lned," promise to achieve wide popu-
larlty, particularly where the cold makes
Wooi welcome in any shape six or eight
months OF the year. New fancy" wooden
fabrics are ribbed and intersected with lines
OF colorcd silk or gold thread in indiscribabe
ways; but these are not used by tailOrs to any
line cloth in solid cOlOrs and darkest shades
being always considered more distinguished.
Fancy suItlngs change from season to sea-
son; bring fancy pTices-prices which bear no
relation to their real value. ''while they
are novelty" but drop to ''less than cost
when the season is over, and they are
ceeded by other fanciful fabrics to catch the
eye and extract money from the purse on the
score of being the --latest thing" out.
Much better than ribs or mixtures are the
yielding yet resisting stOckingette or twiled
. nel 10 Of fxt~Iafa
finest jersey jackets, tunics, SUITS and some of
the new cape-cloaks are composed The
cloth Is thick, warm, rough-linIshed the
undersldes, yet light in weight and not
clumsy. When made into jerseys it is faced
with silk or satin, the pockets put in tailor
fashion, and the finishing executed with the
utmost neatness.
The jersey pocket has takenOn most singu-
lar vogue-sIngular because it has been before
the public several years; but only recently
broken out into this apparently causelesS
epidemic. Perhaps it took this length of time
to discover its virtues; anyhow it must pos
sess virtues and of positive kind or it would
not have won its way to so marked a degree
of popular favor. There is a great difference
between the cost of plain and the cost of a
braided tunic Of the same kind. A lady who
had finished an order for braiding "A hundred
dozen of fine cashmere jerseys recently. re-
celyed an order for another hundred dozen
from the same firm. The price to purchasers
OF OF the plain jSsey was So The price paid
charged for the braided jersey was SO. Ladies
who can braid and erhbroder their own ier-
seys had better make a note of this.
a new model OF a cloth dress lust received
reminds one of the combination" pieces Of
furniture which are capable of so many trans
formations. This suit has Il Vatican drapery,
which can be changed at touch into n scarf
like dOlman, and is, therefore, thought more
dressY for indoors while available without
further addition for the street But the charm
OF the cloth suit has always seemed to me its
simplicity. ITS dlrectness, its neatness, its
freedom from superluous drapeTg. and if 1t is
to take on all the fussiness which it is custom
airy to put into other materials, it would an
nihllate both suit and Wearer.
THE WATERMELON AND MUSHROOM STYLES
As far removed as possible from the quiet
refinement of the best tailor made costumes
are the samples of goods and models of dresses
that are shown as the freshest creations and
lmportatlonS OF this year of dire events, 1888.
''WhO is to wear them?' one asks in half ad-
miration, half disgust. surely the woman
who could array herself in these gorgeous
fields of pine cones, enlarged fungi, and verte-
bralc phenomena, varied with split fruits of
the earth spread out like dessert on plattcrs
OF brilliant majolica. ought to be capable of
great things if her energies and courage are
ever turned IN any practical direction.
That dress is to receive an impetus from the
present rage for art and interior decoration is
to be expected; but one would have supposed
it would have reverted to the stately Eliza
bethan styles; to the ruffs and trains and
stomachers; to the powdered heads and mas
siVe breastplates of eWcls-nOt to sucb car
\.
The carving and the mahogany, the vaulted
ceilings and grand star-cases, the stained
glass and massive stOne-work form.a suitable
framework for the picturesque figures that
move, a slow and dignifed procession, through
the XINth, NNth and XNIth centuries What
may be called the common place of dress came
in with the sacque in the latter half of the
ANlllth century, drifted into the short gown
of the thrifty great grandmother of the pres
ent generation. and has held its place, in one
form or another, ever since
The raised figures in velvet. ulush and satin
and particularly the beautiful tapestried eff
fects upon grounds that reproduce perfectly
the mesh of the GObelines seem to demand the
restoration of long, unbrOken and stately de-
signs-designs subOrdnated to the display of
the fabric not, of late years, in which the
fabric has been cruelty mHtilated and sacri-
feed to the trivial and incOnsequent mixture
of bed valence and curtain drapery which the
Partisan mOdiste has been pleased to dub de-
sign.
If wemen of taste will select from among
the rich autumn fabrics they may find some
capable of original and effective treatment:
but they must not leave the making up to the
hap-haZard treatment of the cony yentional
mOdiste, no matter how great her reputatioa
for the majority of her customers want only
cOnventionallsm strongly accentuated, and
ideas are not required of her.
A novelty in robe dresses looks like the dec
Orative corner in a SiXth-ayenue dry goods
store. 1t consists of fine cashmere upon which
artificial flOwers in plush or velvet are mount
ed and outlined, the leaves being formed of
chenille executed in arrasene stitch. These
hlgh-art compositions are Il cross between a
plush work basket and raised novpr nount
ed umbrella holder in the latest stvle of deco,
rated pottery. Yet they sell at $3.50 each
Some of the designs take the form of a trellis
work of brown chenille upon which trailing
vines and hanging blossoms in green chenille
and shaded velvet are made very realistic
The method of OrnamentatiOn is reproduced
upon some of the imported tulle and gauze 1
dresses for evening wear.
NEW ARRIVALS AND STAY AT HOMES.
There is a distinct difference at this season
in the appearance of the residential popuIa-
tion of New York, who crowd the streets and
form a solid phaanx three deep before every
''shOw' window. The women have either
just returned from Europe or the ''country.1
or are visiting en- DdssdRt. The first wear
travelling dresses, neat, tailor made; hi1b
Henry ii hats of felt, or oval walking hats:
gauntlet gloves of undressed kid. The stav-
at-homes, In from the country look as if they
had dropped out of a garden party or a game
of lawn-tennis. Taking advantage OF the
warm weather, which never fails 10 visit MS /