The Rock Island Argus. (Rock Island, Ill.) 1877-1885, 1883-01-15

NEW PARTISAN DRESSES.

has come from Paris. This is the trottoir
or street-costume, which consists of a
princesse under dress that is entirely con
cealed, except just in front, by a great
coat or redingote, or pelisse, as this over
garment is variously called Two mate
rails are used for these rich costumes, such
as the Vatican brocaded velvet, showing
gay boquets for the undertakes, With
light ffceIle grey cloth for the redngote.
and a small talma mantle of the gay vel
vet for the wrap. The princesse dress
with waist and skirt in one) is fastened
behind, and is made of Inexpensive foun-
dati0n silk. that mas ta3 closed smooth
front of the corsage aud the front breadth
of the skirt covered with i@ued velvet;
this gives the effect of of a Breton vest
or "a Jersey waist, and the front OF the
skirt makes pretty tablier or else re-
sembles an under pe1tiCoat. The dove
grey clothing coat is OF the SIMPLEST shape
with fronts sloping away to show the
velvet beneath, larger pleats behind for
fulIness, a border of Labrador for dixie
sable). or marabout feathers, and isso long
that the under-dress needs no trimming at
tn foot or elsewhere, as it is entirely
concealed the edges of the front of the
coat being hooked 10 the sides of the dress
beneath. This is beautiful in dark green
over plain green velvet skirt very
elegant dress has a redingote Of brown
ottoman silk with bozene figures of vel
vet, bordered all ABOUND and up the front
with marahout feathers, and worn over
skirt Of ottoman silk that is not figured
The short mantle is of the Iozenge- figured
ottomad with feather baId rs
The heauty Of these great coats consists ia
Their line ut, their plain shape their great
length. aud rich faDrfc; Victoria Ieppcd
silk with velvet figures, ) ciliennes, and
cloth seem to be the most in favor for such
over dresses. One of the peacock blue
clio th has lengthwise bands OF indian cash
mere like that of shawls on the cortage;
and the skirt beneath, rs far as it is al
lowe d to be seen under The redingote. IS
entirely of the Indian figdred wool with
fringe of silk tassels that snow all colois
in the cloth
Another design IS that of making a cloth
waist in Jersey shape to button behind,
and wear opening upon this an en-
broidered green velvet jacket that leaves
TIE cloth front in view, like Breton vest,
and to the edge OF this waist is attached
apron drapery of embroidered cloth over
q skirt of plain velvet. 1t is puzzling at
the first glance to tell how the wear-r gets
into these new costumes, as no buttons are
visible, and the whole fits as If moulded
on the weaIer. The lower skirts, when
not plain, are very irregularly pleated or
else Only pleated at the parts LETT uncov
-red b. drape1y, aud the back is made vel
oouffant or by means of deeply folded
Dleats over haif pad. Or by simpler dra-
perry than any lately used not in set
loops and ,rosswise folds but TO Simulate
a great bow out of the whole breadth OF
cloth or with one loop like that of sash
hanging on one side, on else caught up in
i single great curve in easy, natural folds,
such as lGdy makes when she Its her
rain or the skirts of her riding habit.
Worth repeats the short mantles that
le introduced last year. declaring that the
ich costumes must not be concealed BY |
ong cloaks. The newest shape for these |
las d taima back, which is a cape that |
caches just below the waist line, and has |
me seam down the middle; the shoulder |
cam stops at the top of the arm. and /
urves over to the ffont OF this cape, |
where it extends down under the arm in
olman shape. Indeed, this dolman re
emblance is sometimes further given by a
light point on each side. These are
nade Of the brocaded or plain stuff used
or the skirt of the costume. and require Il
hick ruche-like boroer Of 1ur or of feath
rs. There are also other short manfles of
ark color, to be VIOLA WITH any dress,
.nown as Worth nantes, that are made
With great bishop sleeves of plain velvet
= lille the short back and the longer man
lila fronts are of iozenge or feather bro
aided velvet on an ottoman repped |
ground. add these are trimmed with full |
uches of chenille, or of fur. or Of Spanish !
ace. The figured velvet used for the
ack must have the figures perfectly
Matched in these garments. also when they
re used for tue back of basqGes, and
lolistes how point out with pride the
AIRED and artistic ways in which thi
Matching l. done. The long cloaks that
e designed to envelop the wearer are
ow given a new touch by being made 10
p up shorter be ind than i'll front as if
rawn upward by the very bouffant dFa-
err beneath.