Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-03-31


NEW YORK March 80.
II is said by social philosophers that we travel
from the homogeneous through the heteroge-
neous and from the heterogeneous up to the
homogeneous again-Only 1t is first the homo
geneous in its crude FORMS and lastly the homo
geneOus in its highest, most refined and cult
waited modes of expression. Accepting this
statement, 1t does not take much study of go
GEOLOGY TO discover that we are in the hetero-
geneOus stage of development so far as our
clothing is concerned. and that progress must
be made by individuals toward the higher plane.
and not expected from the aggregate mass.
which can never give more than the mean aver
age result, and is composed largely of elements
directly interested in stimulating the produc-
ton of thousand unnecessary accessories to
what We call our civilization.
THE SPRING aONSET
No better illustration could be found Of the
condition of fashion as it exists to-day than the
grotesque, many -colored, hydra-shaped and
strangely cOntrasted spring bonnet. Manufac-
turers of original 'straws' are at their art end
for novelty. The ''histOric past has been ex-
hausted that is, so far as ignorant limitations
can exhaust original ideas-and there is no one
who dares. or who has enough Intelligent
American shape an original and picturesque
mode. whose distinction and fitness would
win for it respect and acceptance. At pres
ent those who pay their money NAV truly
take their choice We have the scoop and
pointed poke. the gypsy" and the "capOte"
the Scotch bonnet and the ''khedive' cap.
the '4'ainsborOu9h" and the DERBY" the Ma
Tie Stuart and the simple turban, and thou
sand shapes and gradatOns between these. We
have straws In every color to match the latest
shades a no nj or
all white which are popularity supposed to be
suited to any costume. though the authorities
diScredit this assertion. We have what are music
ally called symphonies" in color but which are
merely a confused tumble OF color sounds with
out clearly defined purpose, and therefore with
out harmony
In the meantime there are ladies' who do not
depart from the small bonnet known as the
eapOte who find it best suited to all purposes
ana VINO Change 1T only for shade hat in the
country, or for q moderate and modest SCOOP
shaped poke or small gypsy in travelling both of
which shade the face and are better adapted to
emergencies than the quiet and refined vet
dresSy little capote. which frames delicate face
most charmingly, and is no obstacle at theater
or concert. but does little for protection against
sun or wind But it was as costume bon
nets-that is. as bOnnets to match visiting and
reception cOstumeS-that these pretty head
dresses were first introduced. several years ago
an that they have held their own and gained
rat her than lost prestige. says much in their
favor In fact. they have established a position.
They are dress" honnets- They are the only
Kind now admitted for widows mourning aud
they have created Il standard which, even if it is
only temporary. is still useful for the time being
But with its form. its value as standard ceases
Ii is the most mixed in material. COLOR and
trimming of any of the shapes known. The
pointed poke which appeared in Paris twoAears
ago and To limited extent here last summer is
now numerous. but. excepting the form quite
simple in its details. But the capote makes I'D
for its gentleness and severe prOprety OF shape
by maSsing upon its small surface the richest
materials, and the most highly contrasting
cOlOrs and devices Embroidered or elaborately
beaded crowns are combined with exquisite en-
brOdered on beaded lace which is Dleated over
8 soft foundation of silk and covers the briIn
while the ornamentationis obtained from shaded
satin or velvet foliage in which all the tintS of
the bonnet and its trimming are introduced
But the majority do not TO ev the law of design
or harmony. They are medley of nigh eoors CT
Ill assorted shades and bear no relation what
ever to any possible combination in any sane
WOmans dress. These structures apply OF
course to the bOnnets as exhibited
Ut the average opening" which are the kind
most frequently seen upon the street. They
may be copies from patterns sent from abroad
Tor there are bOnnets and bOnnets everywhere
that is, in all modern and civilized COMMUNE
ties but they are not of the best class and
they are not sent from the best houses i'm Paris
or copied by the best houses here The best and
with special Difference 10 particular costumes
and some modestcs scarcely make dress mot
IN IN door morning or evening dress) without
sending its bonnet with it. With a bronze cos
tune the other day bronze satin bonnet was
sent home. both trimmed with beaded passe-
menterie. in which amber and ruby were intro
duced with fine effect The crown of the bon
net was embroidered to match. and group of
amber bronze and ruby ostrich feathers was
placed so as to form a sort Of aigrette.
fhnr nf
In plush and satin surah, with
beaded and embroidered trimmings, con-
tanning all the shades from French bronze to
Nile green. The bonnet was faced with shrimp
pink satin covered with pleated lace. and the
garniture consisted of a tuft of shrimp pink
feathers and embroidered lace the embroidery
executed with shaded green floss and fastened
with small gold pins.
A novelty in the white Neapolitan braid is
edged with fine gold or silver cord which
radlates IN glttering lines from the center of
the crown and forms border to the brim which
II faced with fiuted lace or shrred satin or both
The trimming Is usually some light and delicate
Kind OF lace arranged erJdJOt. fastened with gold
or silver pms, and group of pale pink or blue
feathers, or a large spray of blossoms which
falls in masses
Another style of bonnet is the pointed poke
IN English or satin straw. THESE are often
trimmed In all-iyOry white and gold, or white
and pink. or pink with little infusion of deli
cate blue. or pale blue with a soupcon of pink
They are not very large, and are more becoming
than could be imagined from seeing them in
the hand-especiay TO an irregular face These
Shapes are seen in cOiOrs. in ecru apricot.
straw berry. bronze. and even in terra Gotta red
but not in black. The black straws and chips
are mainly found in three shapes-the capOte.
the moderate scoop shaped poke and the gypsy
Excepting in mourning. il is now rare to see an
al black bonnet. Black straws are very much
trimmed with gold birds and small pompOns In
groups of three. and the brims edged with gold
cord, narrow gold cord braid or gold embroidered
lace
PAINTING AND EMBROIDERY.
The magnificence of evening and indoor dress
ing finds more striking exemplIfcation every
DAY, since enormous fortunes have introduced
style OF living which seems to demand dress
which shall be somewhat in accordance with its
Injury and splendOr. But this has at least one
good effect-it prevents the absurdly frequent
changes lfa lady has dress whose panels of
o0ft thick satin have each been painted by a
great artist, or whose embroidered front breadth
Of solid gold cannot be duplicated, she is not
going TO throw 1t aside after once or twice
wearing; but, in way, her robe becomes so
famous as her jewels, and Is reserved like them
Sof the grandest occasions.