New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-09-24
THE FASHIONS.
FABRICS AND PATTERNS FOR AUTUMN,
CLOTH DRESSES AND wRAps-suKs AND yrrvr&1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.

FABRICS AND PATTERNS FOR AUTUMN
CLOTH DRESSES AND wRAps-sIIKs AND yRryv,1
-EMBRoIDERY-HosIERY
The predominance Of heavy wool fabrica n,
the latest importations ia Marked although there az
softer materials in tricote cloths brocaded otoman.,
serges and cashmeres The passion for embroidery ha
by means abated This includes elaborate work uuos
ady cloth used Tor costumes, and richly passed no
large portion of the width OF the material which IA "A
double width. The embroidery embraces a variety Of
styles and innovations upon the old-fashoned work
Among these fs the novelty Of sewing upon cloth "a
black green brown; the done in outline stltcba
liz warm Oriental coors others of brassy coppery ana
richer Indian figures and again In the quaint beauty az
the cashmere shaws both in coors and designs ns.s.I
away fashion screwed In wool embroidery in =.
lief Of self coors upon WOOL but instead of coptinpsh
garland, these appear in large sized distinct oyer a,
strange figures like growth OF Quartzcrystas grounsd
and clustered from reddish brown ground
Ribbon embroidery. that made its appearapc.
earlier in the year, reappears in self colora
gracefully combined with chenille and the rich apDioux
chenille and velvet ornaments Some of the new cloth
wraps trimmed with the black Krimmer and Astr.
khan fur. Notwithstanding the masnidcence Of thu
fabrics empoyed In a costume, certain economy mar
be observed ia the combination Of two materials vel
vet brocade with plain velvet aud plain velvet with
ottoman SILK and rich brocafe with satin surah and
the apestried silks. The first impression received
OF these superb costumes that coors longer 70
be matched but contrast of both in tint and in fabric
The difficulties attending the passed away Greek
sheatl-hke costumes capped by French bonnets and
Maud Muller hats are happily overcome by the eons
sistent ana captivating Louis Qunze COATS species OF
basque having full poonaise drapery behind vest Is
attached and adorned with graceful fs OF lace such az
in Old pictures Of French court dress Ths
coat reaches just below the hips aud the vest differs
from the usual fashion In being what is technically called
soft, a shrred plastion, Moliere pus or portion
OF silk satin fastened at the and kept In place BIZ
of the pretty clasps of pearl.
CLOTH FABRICS AND COSTUMES.
To return the cloth fabrics; the rough bison cloth
which is like blanket Is fOrtysix inches vida
and SO yard. This has been for the months
caprice OF fashionable French women for travelling sea-
sde or mountain wear and together with shaggy rough
usterine cloth will be adopted for autumn and
winter wear These mostly take two tones OF ons
color or again, are made up in contrasting colors.
Bison costumes for 55 graced with outline emoro-
derry which In questionable TASTE Taormade dresses
are revived with greater, IL possible popularity These
are naturally made OF soft fine wool sus such trieo6
CLOTH cames hair flannel, SERGE cashmeres and tartan
paids These suits OF shade either ornsmeBed
with braided passementeries the narrow hercules
Orad braided the material the knfe-bade design
The cloth redingotes in fresher colors thls
season, such snuff brown. beige, mahogany-brown
smokegray, purpledahha, sage and olive green and
fawn With Mrs. Malaprop, 'misortunes should never
be anticipated till they are past but the latest style
of making these cloth suits is OF the masculine ock
coat double breasted with rolling collar and precisely
follows the mans coat IN the back IN !ne back seams
EFT open severely simple inside and
only the opening being visible The sleeves arevery nigh
shouldered aud are buttoaed at the wrist Tue mpor
tant feature OF vests for cuaway Jackets and coats
appear In various shapes the Continental with guam
titles OF little pockets, the Breton and the Ezaoethan
with sharp points.
Painfully thin arms will no longer be made visible
with the sleeves that are much longer and more
GRACEFUL II is rumOred that the angel sleeve 10 TO be
revived These styles generally adopted and there
will later number or other wraps added III Vses,
paletots ragans, aud cloaks In the gay carnival Of
color ne black camels hair costumes stand In agreeable
relief ,,-,
Upon occasions the fashionable coors are SEEN Of
primrose citron several UNITS Of herb-green dark vine
and copper. Beautiful silk stockings are OF
open lace work and embroidery by hand Others
have real lace inserted between embroidered stripes
SOME POPULAR TOILETS.
It isa great mistake for those who have to practise
economy regarding their dress allowances to purchase
utra-fashionable materials. which are unmistakaoly
stamped with the date of their debut ana receive the
attention given to poor relation 1t Is wiser to nave
few dresses as possible. Among the economical toilets
easily arranged is one composed OF an Ottoman Amen
can silk skirt aud cashmere poonaise OF the Abani
shape Of the same shade. embroidered In silks also Oh
self color Sets in applique Of velvet or silk are used o.
me drapery and corsage The AlOani Is graceful and
simple tight fting hanging plainly IN 'front.' the waist
behind cut deep point, beneath which the back
draperv arranged. TEe front and cunS are trimmed
with wide passementerie 49,
The Cyrilla pattern Is very elaborate walking SKIRT
The uudersklrI is trimmed al around with deep box
pats surInOunted the front and sides Win deep
pun shin ed At the top. Panies shrred across the TOP
form the drapery aud the back drapery Is exceedingly
bouflanI. Trimming Is unnecessary. y.
The Eecta street costume IL MADE elmer Oh
Ottoman cloth. OF velvet or the n0npariel feiFeech
This design combines the Newmarket pOloDslse VITA "a
very full back drapery the skirt, which IS 0ny vsoe
on inc 'front.' Is made OF box plaits on lining nar-
row plating surrounds the entire edge Ine poollse
IL trimmed with silk braid passementere. very dlstn
euished visiting toilet Is IN combination Ine
6rocne ana plain poupare velveteen The model ss
trimmed skirt called the serena walking skr cyn
poeed of an apron front and back drapery OF the
and the wide palfed panels on each slde ae o. pSz
yelyeteen. The Arene basque Is MADE also Oh luc
velyeeeu Tue Fora cape tOcOIres p0nd mas
wide chenille fringe tnls Is cut high upon tue
and Is worn separately made OF the richest ana ~
material or over an OUTSIDE garment Inc pf0cne us
signs are woven IN tue fabric and are hOt " oo @
ounded with the cheap tony yeVeteehS that arc e
simply stamped ,L,.o, lao. IN.
some OF Inc new parures made OF blacK ACE ihs
rayest mpadour designs great Jacquclnno oses
and foliage or purple vetches lilies ana CLUSTERS ~ o
corn flowers mere aud there gltters goueh Ss
Drcately beautiful large tcnus ar lnane % uo"D, ~.
lnuil and are trimmed around the eugr WIN INC n'"
oriental lace that bears a RESEMBLANCE 10 supute
Megsrs f. j. Denung Il CO., LORD * Taylor, Alnols
Constable x CO. and Madame Dem0rest VIII please Nv
cont than ks for attention.