Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-11-03

RINK VIII be fashionable again this winter
ana Tor an opera dinner was made recentlv n
93asque OF pink silk plush, exquisitelv soft and
4encate over skirt of shell pink. mervellleux
Inc square bodice was outlined with nint
Ieathers, and interiOrly with standing rnlIe
oI ~ me Mechlin lace. A necklace Of pink tip-
peu sheIIs with reversible wire setting was
worn with dress, and gloves to the sho1lder
Inc most beautiful black dresses. and ouite a
number are in preparation or have been com
pleted. are of Antwerp silk, very rich, and
covered IN front with Jet and real lace NOT
Jetted lace. The lace is a mixture of thread
ana guipure the jet trimmings fine and pend
ant IN form, upon network which forms
Ine foundation for these cascade effects
Feather designs are much seen in embroidery
upon black, and appear not alone upon the
taDller Dut upon the bodice or basque.
WINTER CLOAKs.
Ihese have somewhat sobered down. They
are not at all so tanclful in shape or so strik-
Ing in their combinations of color as during
the past TWO years. The fact is the majority
always demand that cloak shall be adaDted
70 70 Its purpose They do not want lowered
uFesslng gown OF wrapper-a snowy costume
over another coStume-but a garment for
warmth ana cover, and the cloak is obliged to
come back to this. Even the ulster has
stopped coquettlng with draperies which
were out of place and only rendered it unfit
Tor Its purpose, and has come back to its
original simple form, with the hood lined with
a color, IL color Is wanted, for a finish The
finest cloaks for the street and visiting are of
plush or velvet brocade with ottoman. armure
or matted grounds. They are long, but
aso aps SO more 1Sng as tb last year; they are
Oh the dolman shape, though they often
nave the dolman sleeves. Apricot, primrose
ana amber shades are employed for the quilted
satin Innings instead of the hackneyed red and
old gold, and the trimmings are very soft.
and tull chenille fringes and tournaments. Very
simple yet ladylike cloaks are cut close to the
Igufe ana hlgh upon the shoulders from thick
dul ottoman satin. The sleeves are long and
open, lined with quilted satin and bordered
like the cloak with broad band of the black
SIX Plush OF which the collar is composed. It
may be fastened with a clasp at the throat or
tied with black satin ribbon, but the front is
held by large invisible hooks and eyes.
W arm cloaks for elderly ladies are beauti-
1ully made out OF fine, furry, black camel's
hair, lined with black silk plush, and finished
with pelerlne collar of the same. This obviates
the necessity for furs except a muff. Instead
ruche0t lace or q tichu of crepe de chine NAV
be tied around the neck, and is much more
healthfuI and pleasant This soft warm
camePs-halr cloth has been made into autumn
clOaks, which may be recommended for ladies
in warmer climates throughout the entire
season. 1t is in effect long paletot, pleated
in to the figure front and back in fine length
wise pleats from top to bottom, and lined
with all surah. The sleeves are set high,
are little full, rounded up well, and slightly
flowing, two pleats being laid on the inside of
the arm, which gives a much more grace
full effect near the wrist. A broad belt
is fastened to tie back on the inside
thus holding the back well into the figure. 4
full ruche of black lace is arranged as jabot
around the neck on the outside of narrow
standing collar, and this trimming is repeated
on the sleeves. The fastening at the neck and
down the front is effected with dull satin rib
bon. These cloaks are not very expensive
and are very useful. They are soft, light vet
warm, have look of distinction without be-
ing what is called ''dressy," cover the dress,
and may be used as a morning dress if one
tires of the cloak,
Mt NIL ncb eIrf
are trimmed with otter this season, and there
is a notable absence OF patchy Ornaments"
SO called, which are anything but ornamental
to really rich garment. Aiguillettes cords
macarOons, and the whole family of hanging
passmenteric decorations are so quickly re-
produced In shams as to be almost instantly
Yulgarized and made despicably common.
Ihe tendency, therefore, among women of
real refinement is to get nd of trimming eX-
cept that which always has value, original :.
designs in handwork, whether it be lace, enl-
bfoIderY or painting.
Quite the newest thing in evening and onera
cloaks are the Paisley designs, with gold
thread woven in with the delicate vet richly
blended c0lorlngs upon cream or tinted
grounds. These are bOrdered with q full silk
and gold tape fringe and lined with apricot or
cream colOred silk plush, or with quilted satin
surah, and are half dolman, half mantle, mar
row in the neck, with shoulder Dieces and
long ends in front. White mantles will of
course be fashionable (they ALWAYS are
white sicilienne brOcaded velvet, corded veil
vet. and corded silk satin lined and en-
broldered with silk and silver, Perhaps these
last are the daintiest Of all, as they are the
costllest. for the materials are very rich and
the work always done to order and after
special designs. Many handsome and dis
tnguished looking mantles are made of
Persian, INDIAN and brocaded stufs in
silk and wool or of materials really foreign
and distinctive in their design and 1t is ALWAYS
to be remembcFed that what is rare Is more
valued than what is commonplace and con-
ventlonal, though the latter may be rated at
higher money value.
TUCKING AMP RIEATING
are rage. Among some very novel break
fast dresses Just imported are long gowns of
finest cashmere-In cream, peacock and cleo
trlc blue, shrimp pink, straw berry and rock
gray shades-that are tucked lengthwise from
top to bottom, back and front, and trimmed
with cascades of tinted EscurIal lace in which
are fiots of satin ribbon. Silk cords eonflne
the waist. The sleeves are little full and
slighIIy moving, easy upon the arm and
trimmed with lace. Another stYle of morn
ing dress is cut with q moyenage waist which
clearly detneS the waist and hips. The skirt
Is laid IN very full small perpendicular folds
around the elongated centre at the back of
this bodice and to the sides, which may be
paneled or simply made to meet . front
formed OF two killings with Nm of rose en-
broidery between in solid, self contrasting
or varied colorS between, as preferred. Ger
tainly upon white. White is more elegant
than any color, especially if the hip helt
which covers the edge of the bodice and de-
fines 1t is of black velvet
Still another morning Gown is of grey
surah, the fnllneSs laid In lengthwise pieats
upon a straight lining, which strictly out
lines the figure, but is easy as well as grace
full. The hip belt is of ruby satin and is
passed under the pleats, reappearing upon
the plain parts of the bodice, and the color is
repeated IN the cascades of lace which are
carried down the front 1t is very common
now for ladies TO adopt tho European custom
and breakfast IN their bOud0ir, generally a
lovely secluded room, with stained glass win
dows, an open fireplace, and perhaps rose
SILK curtains to give a becoming tint to the
complexion. These gowns are for boudoir
breakfast purposes, and thogS with a moyen-
age bodice are particularly adapted to women
OF stately, handsome hgures.
LEVELS AND ORNAMENTAL WARES
Really fine gems are pow mounted as near
as possible IN ah invisible setting and Fabies.
cats eyes, and others, are much preferred to
the diamond. This is not surprising, for a
ilawless ruby is worth FIVE times as much as
a diamond OF the same SIZE and equal DUALITY
y ruby ring is now the first choice for an en-
gagement ring, or small ruby may OCCUPY
the centre with sapphire on one side, and
yellow diamond on the other, If diamonds
are preferred they may he arranged in diff
ferent cOlors in the form of clover loaf
and happy idea is to make it four-leaved
clover. a novelty IN bracelets consists of
rough gems set in nuggets of virgin gold con-
nected with cable chains; and in silver are
jockey caps pendant upon black velvet bands
which are adapted as necklets to voung
women of sporting proclivities.
The wrought jewelry shows exeuisite Hover
designs in pink and white enamel sprinkled
with precious asones apple blossoms, a MIN
iatllre n4nd lily with white diamonds in the
centre, and others. The lotus flower figures
largely in the fancy articles which are begin
ming to arrive in anticipation OF the holidays
and the season of gifts, There are lotus
claret jugs, coffee sets Individual eondiment
sets; inketauds. A lotus leaf FERNS pretty
candlestick in white and cOlOred bronze, with
an insect alight upon Il.
Vienna sends some jeweled photograph
frames in fanciful shapes-fan, butterfly.
palette and easel. Some pretty menu stands
are seen in Royal Worcester China, and con-
stltute also individual pepper and salt hold
ers. Two acorns with perforated tops are IN
tended t3s red and'white or black pepper;
between them, and in front of them, an acorn
cup stands ready to receive the salt, and two
dainty oak leaves at the back form the sun
Part OF the stand, in the side Of which the
menu card is placed. ~
New dessert dishes take the form of curled
leaves with fTuit attached 10 the handle. or
under the turned edge TOR decoration. PIums.
peaches, green figs, and other fruit are made
tc look very natural, and show great refine