The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1883-07-21
FASHIONS AND GOSSIP.

Large snallS OF Whlte null embroidered on
the edges and in the corners will be worn
with midsummer toilets.
Shoulder capes matched to the dress and
finished with ruffie of oriental or other
| fancy lace are much worn this summer.
In the matter of fancy jewelry the palm
may be awarded to spiders. Jet, cut silver
and jeweled spiders are seen in masses of
lace, in bonnet strings and in bows.
A novel and dressy bodice for evening
wear consists of a short zouaye jacket of tint
ed silk or satin, underneath which is worn
dainty waistcoat made of tulle or Persian
mull laid in soft folds over the shoulder and
narrowing at the belt. From here the folds
how loosely and strap around the hips, to be
caught up with the drapings of the dress
skirt in the back, forming light paniers
underneath the edges of the zouave, which
only reach to the waist.
Two very pretty styles OF skirt for stout
! figures may be made in any material. The
| first is pleated all the way down in Hat box
pleats, with side peating underneath at the
foot; short and very fat pleated drapery
over the hips and across the front, arranged
IN dropping loops at the back. The other
dress has two kilt pleatings reaching to the
knee in front, and shawl overskirt with point
little to the left, three hollow pleated
hounces at the back, and flowing bow of
ribbon by way of tournure.
One of the prettiest features OF children's
dress this year is the collar There are fat
collars with worked front; others have me-
dallions of raised embroidery transferred on
to screens. Very fnll, deep collars, reaching
to the shoulder, are made for infants, while
little girls wear fiat linen collars trimmed
with very deep embroidery. Double collars
in spotted Swiss and stiff linen collars are
always in style. Shoulder-knots of hand
some gros grain or satin faille ribbon are
worn by little children of both sexes.
no Watfaa,, vuronparS xubioh Ioxa oopoa
into such fashion again, are exceedingly be-
coming to tall, slender women, and stand
next in popularity and comfort to the more
dressy tee-gown and Grecian house-robe.
These wrappers are made principally of
foulari, India silk and summer cashmere;
and for exceedingly warm mornings are
shown very cool, airy-ooking garments,
made OF lilac, pale pink or pure white lawn,
or of French cambria, trimmed with yards OF
lace and ribbon. For very young ladies are
wrappers of sateen in gay fonlard designs,
trimmed with Irish point lace or killings
of the plain satin, edged with narrow Valen-
ciennes.
Some one has said that woman of fifty
years of age to-day is fresher and more at
tractive than she was twenty years ago at
that age. At present women dress more
youthfully; they do not plaster their hair
in wide bands over the cheeks; they wear
more sensible clothing in the way of thick
boots waterproofs, ulsters fannels and
high-neck dresses, which tend to preserve
their health. They read, travel and have
more congenial occupations than formerly
and it is no longer considered "unladylike'
that feeble Mandy pamby word-if women
have rubber boots, self-reliance, common
sense and few opinions of her own.-Alba-
ny Express.
A watering-place observer thus describes
, seaside belle: She was tall, SLIM and in her
self commonplace. Her gown Was made of
light yellow sateen, hugely Powered in olive
long, straight, untrimmed skirt reached
| from her feet nearly to her arm-pits, where
it met mere fragment of waist. A belt
went around her body foot above the usual
place. and olive ribbon, crossing her bosom
and back, provided support in the absence
| of stays. She was ''such an acute develop
ment of the aesthetic craze, such realization
| of figure of a painting of centuries ago,
that to the eye of an artist she might have
been agreeably picturesque, but she found
no favor in the throng of contempoTaneous-
| ly fashionable women"
1t was never before so easy to renovate the
worn front of a dress. Lace iabots, vests,
pastrons, plain pulled and pleated; wide
| bands of embroidery put round the neck like
an Elizabethian ruff, and extending straight
down the front of the dress, with the edges
| meeting in the center, and fichus of all kinds
are all popular. Handsome white null ties
may be utilized, provided they are wide
| enough, by trimming the sizes with lace as
much like that on the ends as possible, only
it need not be SO deep. The tie, so trimmed,
should be doubled so that the lace on both
ends will show, and caught in the neck to
fall in a full shell where the dress collar
meets. The doubled end is then to be either
tucked into the belt of the dress or caught
under rosette of ribbon or bouquet of flow
ers, the portion between neck and belt form
| ing pulled plastron of lace and null.
Bonnets composed entirely of artificial
flowers are in great fashion. They are of the
capote shape and made usually OF one kind
of flower, though some are shown with the
crown of one flower and the brin of another;
for instance, bonnet whereof the crown
was composed of velvet fern leaves radiating
from the center, the brim being covered with
pansies. Bonnets in dark and light English
violets are very popular; also, Others in vel
vel ivy leaves with fringe OF crimson-tipped
white mountain daisies and moss buds droop-
| ing from the brim. A very pretty bonnet
for brunette is composed of very small,
| dark-crimson unmounted roses, with bunch
of corn flowers and golden wheat-heads set
at one side, and for blonde princess bon
net entirely covered with white roses or
white lilac, and edged with pale green
| leaves.
Fashions in Laces