The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1883-11-29
Fashlcns IN yelrets.

kS54lOU8 IN yelveys
velvets win undoubtedly be the great
fashion for winter, for nearly every
costume, if it is not entirely made Of
velvet, has some of it in its composition,
If only for collars and cuffs. Plain vel
vets are woven in much the same man.
ner as silks, with the exception that there
is a second warp, which in the weaving
process has a fat wire placed under
meath it, and after being tied down
by the welt, is cut By very
sharp little instrument called a knife,
although resembling GLACIERS dia-
mond; the wire is thus released and the
pile is formed. The other warp is used
in conjunction with the welt in max
ing the back of the velvet; of course the
height of the pile depends upon the
height of the wire. Thus we have
pushes with an extremely long or a
very short pile; the latter is called
"Yelours du Nord," and can easily be
! employed as a velvet The lower quail
tiles of these goods are manufactured to
/ an enormous extent in Germany, and
have now reached very high standard
| of perfection. In frise or terry velvet
the pile is left uncut. The effect il very
handsome when introduced into fancy
or figured velvets, although il is not
much sought after this season. except
ing with those used for the making OF
mantles. For example. satin, or some
armure effect for the ground, the design
(say leaf of cut velvet, and the veins
of frise, and, if well executed, although
exceedingly costly, is magnificent in
style.
For the best dresses all-silk Lyons
velvets will be generally used. In fig
ured velvets the variety is simply won
derful. and this season will certainly be
remembered for the elaborate designs
that manufacturers have placed before
the public in such quantities. A few of
the best are .'velours tapis." rich
looking material, the grounds of dark
tones, such as black, grenat, Havanne,
bronze. ETC., design in which the POM
egranate plays an important part in
such variety of shades that the en-
semble is very much like carpet of
Eastern origin. "Velours faconne
camieux" is extremely handsome, the
flower "a dahlia) in two shades of vel
vet upon satin ground of the lighter
tones, in a series of eight exquisite col
orings, such as Cassowary, Lory and
Mine de plomb. 'Velours faccnne
lisere frise'' is quite a novel style
ground of satin, with a design repre-
senting leaf in velvet, either of the
same shade as the ground, or of one
that blends we'll with it; the edging is
Of fy-,- -
the ground is dotted at regular inter-
walls with little motive similar to a
"fieur- de-lis.' .Velours broderie" has
disappearance of an embroidered velvet;
the pattern belong s to the class known as
s'fieur ornament" which is generally
associated with house decorations.
The combinations of color are good.
especially dragon and the new shade
lory; it may be used either for dresses
or mantles. "Felours armure perSe"
is certainly quaint in style, and perhaps
not to every ones taste 1t has q
ground of an irregular armure, COM
posed of three or four different color
ings; the shades are those to be found
in Cashmere shawls, and the velvet de-
sign like those motives in Persian en-
broideries, putting one in mind of the
ornamental toilet combs that our grand
mothers had such veneration for. Al
though uncommon. it will be a very
stylish material for mantles.
.'Chainette velours faconne" has a
rib like a chain for the ground, the de-.
sign fruit) in velvet of a dark tone of
color. while the ground has extremely
bright shades, such as saphir. limace,
lory. etc. The effect is extremely hand
some. '.Armure velours lisere' has a
ground composed of satin and lines of
velvet; the design. also in velvet. is
edged with a bright shade OF satin. The
best combinations are loutre and man.
DARN, prune and peche, bois and chau-
dron.
Added to the above. there is an i'm
mense assortment of the usual figured
velvets. which have been in vogue for
some seasons past. the only novelty
about them being the designs and the
cOlorings, with neither of which have
purchasers any reason to complain,
either in point of taste or quantity.
There are various kinds of new grounds
coming under the head uf armures,
Uul tut SttIH Is SUI tue gEedleSJ IaNOE-
lite. The designs mostly in vogue for
dresses are small and detached; but for
mantles the larger ones are preferred.
They are of the fruit, geometrical or
arabesque style. floral not being so
much sought after. A new quality of
figured velvet is now being introduced
for making entire dresses. The de-
signs are minute, and the finish is en-
ceedingly bright and soft. They can
thus be used in the same manner as any
ordinary dress material. A great sue
cess for this article is anticipated.
Velvet gauze will be largely used
for evening wear in the following
shades: Bouton d or, APRICOT, girls perle,
ardoise clair, fleur de peche, mauve,
nacre and lory. In black there are nu-
merous designs and qualities, and the
article viii certainly once again be the
fashion in the spring, especially for
man'tles.
1t may be useful to note that the ex-
traordinary demand from all countries
for this article has made it extremely
scarce; the consequence is, the weavers
have succeeded in obtaining an impor-
tant advance in their wages, and manu-
facturers now ask from merchants plac-
ing new orders, an advance from ten
to fifteen per cent. upOn all prices.-|