Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-02-03

The Season of hail. and Hall Dressing
from n Masculine Point Of View.
WEIGHT AND waRNrH-gAScY DRESS COS

Fashion and foily In tue limited circle where
they reign. were never carried u greater extremes
since men wore dOuo: and Carried swords they did
not use than IN th BEGINNING OF this year of grace
1888 Blu the ensemble, as far as light color
taste, exquisite loy illness and haunting grace can
make it 40, "the women OF this generation are
lovely enough to 1--we and do nothing else re-
mar5ed a gentleman at one OF the entertainments
given by New York millionaire; and, indeed it
seemed 50. even 20 a woman. The shlmmering
drdperieS, revealing all OF the wonderfully white
round i arms the coato1co of the neck and delicate
curve OF the throat, We're light almost as angel
wings ani touched by Jewels here and there as II
by stars. NatronS made q heavier BACKGROUND to
this bright picture, bit they were Respondent
In beaded Cnbr3.deriCS and Jewels, and so did not
mar it, the OlicH-ccatel men alone casting the
shadows
.Let u eat, and drink AMI danca for tomorrow
We die is as tTIc row rs Il was ages ago w,len IL
was firsJ written, and there does NOS seem 10 be
much 10 be- done about it, for one is the j)y o. the
Old men and tn other Of the young women ami
the two control the world.
BALL TOILETS FROa A Masculine POINT OF VIEW.
snow, that IS what i call an exquisite dress, "
said Il young gentleman at q bail recently.
"Worth woal1 admire yoTr TASTE repiis the
lady ID whom tie remark WIS Andre ssel .cor It
Is one or his choicest pT01dcti us" The pan
nierel bodice, cuo . very Tow square, Wa OF topaz
pink Grape embroidered with sh9ded carnations
AMI trimmed win Hccliil tice. probably an int
tation, but very II a, an beautiful. The train or
the soft shades OF Pink Sltln was daintily ar
ranged and thlckiy ruchcd, white on the meek, nd
and in the ears were ornaments OF palest mink
coral set In diamonds. Diamonds never look so
We'll as Wnen used as mirror frames for other
stone, anu these were set artisticaNy.
mat do you think OF this dreSs?" asked the
lady, Indicating young lady Vino was approach
ing.
"O,," answered the male Individual. disdain-
fully, at Is no worth thinking about; It IS ride
ulOuS for an occasion like this
but The Wealef Is worth thinking about, replied
the lady Il happen to know her, and she Is a
very sup ,rior girl indeed She is a reader of very
clever books, not only literary bus entfc; she
IS a member OF the State All see tIOn; she has
t1ken the Harvard course and she s9en Is so much
OF her liberal allowance hcr hobbies that she
has tu. a moderate sGia left for her dress
"Waat you wiuli call girl OF i!e3s,n said the
gentleman hdif trenty, and looking sligntly
bored ut Is great mistake" he continued, 'for
girls TO have iteas II In lkes them dress badly
ana sep rat IS them from The rest OF the world No
look or am1zement on the 1dy'S lit Is the SIM
OF ad0rera; no bouquets hanging at her belt Way
the number OF lady'S bouquets nowadays Is as
significant as the number OF scaips worn by an
''But the young ~ lrriai woman carry many
Is The uum lrredl" Certainly More, ana why
not? They are simply tribute OF admiration
and the nu:i,ber only shows how widespread the
admiration iS-7
IL think that a very foolish CUSTOM observed
the lady, "and IL IL Is not wicked it leads to wick
ednesS- know worthy and most eSt.mable young
men-w.n connected and well e(iucated-whO viii
not go into society because they cannot stand the
nfteen and twenty dollar bouquet business. Its
influence Is deeper and more in siduou5 than one
where daughter OF the family was expecting
70 go to a Delmonco BAH, an old bachelor who had
been grooming over ball bouquets, and the inrOadS
tney made upon the pockets of young men, actu-
ally sent out surrepttiously by his valet and I'd
amagnncent bouquet sent anonymously to the
young lady, because she looked d )wn in the
MOUTH as he expressed IT, ami he, suspecting the
cause and not wishing her 10 feel Illuminated or at
adisadyantage with others, took this method OF
restoring her armour propre. And, indeed, 1t sent
her away Radiant, and full OF surmises as to who,
lind lind s"' 0''sN''u' "'i' was 'ia' haa 0een 50
THAT is a difficulty. admit" returned the
young man. thoughtfully. 1T gives money all
the advantage; but then where In this country
has 1t not the advantage? The IN IN who has not
got 1t and cannot get it must go under. The
woman who has not got IL or cannot get what 1t
represents, through some man, must 60 UNI err
"Ihen this beautiful worli OF yours is very
hard and vulgar world after 2" smiled the lady.
"fes, II you choose 10 look at it in that light
Ny point is this: that there is no use kicking
against the world We 1--we in 1t does not hurt the
world; but it does hurt 1 find the world
pleasant so long "a accept what it has to off Ar
me and do not trouble myself to alter what cannot
De altered. i do not think about my clothes. 1 90
not want to think about them; but / know am
well arsssed, because employ a good tailor, and
general rule, that everything has been thought
out for me far better thln / could think it
cut for myself; and this talk about independence
ana aiapt ng every mn and every wOman'S
clothes TO til Fir Individual pecularties is all rot
Men look pretty well In their Dress although it is
nideOus because IL is neat and uniform. Women
look well when they are dressed according to the
latest fashion by good dressmaker but let them
sttempt something original, and what mess they
You are severe. Every one cannot AFFORD
french dreSsmaking."
THAT is 'every-One's' misfortune AMI the hest
way In such case Is TO make the best COPY they
can, or restrict themselves to simpler methods, to
something they can do very we'll / know a lady
who Is here this evening with her daughter She
has clever maid. She buys no dresses at from
three to six hundred dollars each from the Criona-
1iltyS, but she has one dress made In Paris every
year, which her maid copies; and her pretty fresh
looking daughter. who Is always so daintily at
has Tin h0<li
three nerent shades OF delicate color including
white, and tule skirts made over silk. She never
dresses cost her is about five dollars for the tue
Her mothers maid trims the original silken
You Seem TO be very we'll seoaaned wa fhe
different methods practised by ladies of obtaining
substitute for French dressmaking."
"Oh! this lady Is my aunt and her daughter Is
my cousin, so am privileged person. But all
ladie; are not so wise or so economical as she.
have been told that one dressm aking house in New
York furnished sixty-nve OF the dresses We see
each.
"That Is a vast sum In the aggregate to spend
on what has so little intrinsic value
Yes, hut that Is the difficulty in this country.
You have 10 pay so much more and get so much
less for 10 than elsewhere-not alone In intrinsic
value but In the quality OF the work. That Is the
reason why so many Americans live abroad be-
cause they can get much out OF life on the
other side Tor much less money. Imagine man
pay,ng ss,3co III lor r., decorating his house with
the florist That IS what host, understand,
pays for these p aims and ferns and orange trees.
The reason why they cost so much is because of
the price OF labor in bringing them and taking
them away again, ana also because of the almost
universal crime OF carcleSSneSs. which doubles and
trebles the risk. and 50 the owner charges a price
that VIII cover all his possible losses and many
OF the plants are rare and valuable" At this point
the conversation ceased to be OF interest TO the
reader, so u may be supplemented by some of the
more recent aspects OF whit IS understood as
FULL DRESS
conspicuous feature OF 1t this season Is the alb
sence OF sleeves and the triumph OF the low bodice
puritan prejudice always has existed and
stu continues In many minds against the culling
away OF the neck o: the dress and the exposure OF
the arms To the fun top OF the shoulder. s.Supe-
nority" TO this marrow nd iIberal" way OF look.
ing at the question is evidence OF Travelled cultfva-
0on and a cosmopolitan acquaint tnce with the
customs OF society abroad; and within the radius
81 this charmed circle "full" dress now means a
train and corselet, above which may or may not
appear filmy strip OF lace. Ladies' who retain
the squlre GU" usually add to it the high stand
ing collar. Eiz lbethan In style, and composed or
pbeated satin wired lace, or embroidery mounted
ON SUN foundation, according to the style and
trimming OF the dress Many rich dresses have
trontS masSed with pearls or beaded embroidery
Tor example, 4 train OF ruby velvet has a front OF
pQlbrOiforpi E1v with