The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1883-01-18

Mr.. Atherton, and / liked that assertion of
III. Legouve that among women we need
neither pedantS nor dolls That is well said.
1t has always seemed to me that the tendency
among women is toward the one or the other
of these extremes. If we could do away with
our One-sided system Of education for girls, and
in its place establish one which would develop
our daughters into women fitted forthe kitchen,
the nursery the sick-rOom, the library and
parlor, we should have that ideal Republic of
which social economists in ali ages and all COun-
tries have dreamed"
But" said Mrs. Anterior, "the very law of
growth makes a perfect organization impOs-
sible; the nature of social requirements, also,
varies with the status of the people. / do not
think your standard for women impractiCable,
but YOU demand q great deal of them"
Not more than the Germans demand of
their countrywOmeu," replied Mr.. AthertOn.
German women in the most ordinary ranks
Of life are mistresses of an extended cuisine,
speak two or moro of the modern languages,
have such knowledge of medicine, or oftener
simple, domestic remedies as Will enable them
to bring their children safe through the various
ailments peculiar to childhood; they are aC-
cOmplshCd needleWOmen, practical lace-maker5
and laundrcsses; they are muscians-Oitcn ex-
ccllent artsts-and if they but possessed the
wit or $piritueLe qualities Of French or Ameri-
can women, they would be truly admirable"
q third term between pedant ard doll" said
Mrs. AthertOn, with q mischievOus sparkle in
her eyes "But we shall see what phenomenal
creature will be shaped under Heens train
ing" and bidding her sister goodnight, she
went out accompanied by Mr.. AthcrtOn. Aunt
Helen, in whose mind Ethels letter had awak-
ened many thoughts, soon went to her own
room, and little while after the darkened
Athcrton house, surrounded by the great trees,
appeared to the passer-by like some monstrOus
object Of vague and mysterious shape outlined
against the night-siy.
COLOR IN DRESS.
Last week we quoted from the Messrs Auds-
ley's book on color in dress to show what shades
were best suited to a far blonde complexion.
The following gives an idea of what is most be-
coming to the other type of blonde beauty:
" The Ruddy Blonde has L full-tOned COM
plexiOn, somewhat inclning TO positive rose
red or carnatOn, with dark blue Thrown eyes,
and brown hair. This type is much subject to
an increase of color in times of exercise or cX-
element. The colOrs described as suitable for
the fair blonde are, generally speaking, suit
able for the type now under consideration :;
but their tones, and in some cases their hues,
must be altered As q rule the rUddy blonde
may use more freedom in the selection of COlOrs
than the fair blonde; her complexion not be-
ing of so delicate a nature, is less sensitive.
From the fact that the hair peculiar TO this
type is the medium between golden and black,
and that the tlnts of the complexion are high
and positive, rich and moderately dark ColorS
in dress are to he recommended,
CAS- in the fair type green is one OF the best
cOiOrs for the ruddy blonde, but in the present
instance delicate green is not SO suitable IS
dark green. When tho complexion is OF a
light color, and can receive more red without
becoming Oycrcharged, a rich tull-tOncd green
l.. 4
which, although sufficiently bright to yield
color 10 the skin, is not 4 contrast powerful
enough to bleach it. In proportion as the
complexion increases in color, d green OF deeper
hue must be selected, and progress must be
made from the positive to the neutral hues,
such rs sage, tea, or olive greens. Deep neu-
tral greens do not cast much red on the COM
plCEiOn, while they both harmonic with and
reduce its natural tintS. The simple rule to be
observed in the case of the rudy blonde is
the paler her complexion the brighter must be
the green Of her dress; the roster it is, the
deeper aud more neutral must the green be. A
bonnet of bright green is highly suitable to the
ruddy blonde whose complexion Is not over
charged with rose. When highly cOlOrcd, the
effect of the green should be neutrilzed by the
addition OF rose, scarlet, orange, or white flow
ers On the inside of the bonnet these colored
flowers should be surrounded with some gray
or semi-transparent material, TO prevent them
from coming iii contact with the skin. On the
outside it is advisable to use several dead green
TINS, rs autumn leaves with the flowers, par
tcularly if orange and scarlet ones are selected.
Rosc-colored flowers harmonic better with
bright yellow green than with dead green
leaves.
Blue IS advantageous TO the ruddy blonde,
giving the complexion an agreeable tint. The
orange which blue casts upon thcss1n is not itself
pcgccptibie, as it unitcS with the rose and flesh
tnts, forming Il fresh and hcalthtul color.
Blue follows the same rule as grccn-that is, it
must be used deeper with compilations of full
color than with those of lighter 'tnts. The
best coors TO associate with rich blue are orange,
salmon and chocolate. Both white and black
harmonic well with blue. A blue wreath or
hcad-dress suits full-tOncd brown hair we'll,
giving 1t an increase Of orange, which Is one of
its constituents. The same coloI- must be
avoided by the rudy blonde which are pointed
out as injurious 10 the fair blonde.
perhaps of all colors, riOlet is the most diff
cult to introduce into dress, its effect upon the
complexion being so unsatisfactory. 1t causes
all skins oappear yellow, and none can receive
that color without looking sickly and dis
agreeable
"A considerable portion of yellow is required
to ncutraliZe violet and reduce its powerful
effect. \ violet bonnet, trimmed i'll frontwith
yellow, and some semi-trausparent material,
may De rendered pleasing. AS NlOlGC becomes
positively lost in artificial light, it is wholly
unsu;ted to be introduced IN evening dress.
"Ihe neutrdj cOLOrs are generally suitable to
the rHddy blonde. When Of medium intensity,
they leave the natural hue of the complexion
almost unintluenced; when light, they increase
its color; when dark, they reduce it by con-
trast. The most agreeable dark neutrais are
russell, slate, gray, maroon, and all the shades
of brown; the most pleasing light ncutrals are
gray, drab, tawn, and stone-cOi0r."
FASHION NOTES.
Mufs.-Among the novelties i'll ladies' NUTS
is one made of dark green cloth, lined with
satin Of the same color, which projects in a
shiTred trill at the ends, and trimmed with two
thrce-inch bands of gray fur. piece of cloth
nineteen inches long and nine wide is required
to make it. Dark green satin ribbon three
inches wide is drawn through it, and tied on
the outside in bow.
Another is satchel mutf made Of dark brown
plush and satin. A piece Of plush ten inches
wide and twenty-fOur long is lined with Il thin
layer of wadding, turned in an inch all around,
aud faced with u thrCc-inch bias strip Of satin
at the short ends. 1t is then lined with satin
boX-pleated frill of double satin an inch and
half wide is set in between the plush and lin
ing along the sides to two inches and a half
from the ends, and Il satin pocket is let III be-
/ tween the outside and lining at the end, which
forms the back Of the muH when it is folded
over. The short ends are brought together,
and the long sides are joined where they are
left bare OF the fril; Il satin frill is set into the
top, which forms the opening to the pocket,
! n DtI int pf