Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-06-13
"Rational Dress,, for Men.

"A Woman's" Letter in the London Times.
Men have their say on women's dress. and
decide automatically what is or is not rational
Dress" will You permit lady to represent that
mems costume is by no means perfect and ad-
mits Of much improvement as regards health.
convenience, and grace? 1t is rather difficult
to speak out plainly enough to substantiate my
assertion as to the first point; but doctors will
testify that there has been great increase OF
late among young men of liver and kidney
disease, not to speak OF other delicate parts.
This is owing. believe, to the fashion which
has prevailed OF small cut-away coats, leav-
ing IONS ana stomach unWrapt, save by
the tight and often thin trousers. Older
men frequently suffer from chill taken
from sitting on damp seats or cold stone,
from which woman would be protected bV
her more vOluminous garments. The absurdity
OF the open coat and waistcOat, turned back
Just where the throat and chest need covering.
is more generally recognized. The practice of
wearing, In winter, waistcOats cut very high.
and the constant argument for wearing beard
"to protect my throat" show that it is felt.
though not often acknowledged in speech The
large expanse of starched shirt front, held to-
gether, perhaps, with but one small stud, is
ridiculous in every way. 1t is sham; for most,
If not all, wearers supplement it's deficiency by
warm vest below, which cannot, however.
quite exclude searching wind, or keen night
air, after leaving warm room, from reaching
the lungs. 1t is not beautiful in itself. it be.
comes easily sOied. needs frequent repair. costly
washing, and seldom sets as it should The
stiff collar rasping chin, checks and throat, is
most inconvenient in every way.
far more rational dress for man was the
dOublet fastening to the throat and covering the
thighs, with soft band or rundown collar We
come now to the crucial garment so recon-
mended Tor wOmen's imitatiOn-trOusers, II
these be so adapted as to allow the free use OF
the limbs. how is 1t that men wear knicker-
bOckers for bicycling. rowing. running, and
clmbng3 l once heard gentleman who had
been to a fancy ball In hose and silk stockings,
exclaim, How Jolly it Is to dance without
trousers" l suppose he found they fettered
freedom of action. The chief difference between
mans dress and woman's Is the principle OF
suspension. The former uses braces and hangs
all the weight on the shoulders the latter uses
cOrsets, and suspends from the waist Braces
would not do for women, they would cut
and pain the delicate flesh OF the breasts. DO
they suit men7 Is 1t not curious that in all
active exercise they are discarded. and belt
veniences attending their use; but content my
self with suggesting the question have said
nothing about the grace OF mems dress-every
one must allow It might be more ornamental,
No one who has ever seen stout, elderly man
without his coat can help shuddering at the
| thought Of matron, stout and elderly. clad in
the dual garment, with only frill round the
waistband Of the victorious trousers valuable
| to the morphOlOgist, as showing the course OF
evolution. Men and women are structurally
different in make and physical constitution. ]
am so benighted as to think their dress should
also differ to suit their needs.