Spirit of the age. [volume] (Woodstock, Vt.) 1845-1913, 1883-05-09


timidly at the mats. "The cooks never
permit us to learn their secrets. II
you would like to visit the kitchen,
they will no doubt explain everything
to YOU"
"Now for the BILL" said my compan-
ion, refilling his pipe. "Altogether,
you have given us very tolerable
meal" In few moments she came
back, carrying small, scoop-like tray,
in which was placed a slip of paper
containing the reckoning. This she
pushed along the mat toward him;
then she bowed and remained with her
face close to the floor, while he minute
ly scrutinized the document. Taking
his purse from his sleeve, he dropped
some paper money into the tray, and
remarked in a low tone: "You may
keep the change (ten cents). .'
His munificence almost overpowered
the waitress, who bowed repeatedly
and gratefully murmured, "Your gen
erosity resembles that of foreigner.
Any one can see that you have trav-
elcd." After we had smoked awhile
we rose, quilted the room, and, de
scending the ladder-like stairway, the
steps Of which were polished as smooth
as glass, slipped on our foot-coverings
and entered the kitchen. On the hard
earthen floor were rows of little char
coal furnaces, provided with iron rods
that served as rests for the skewered
cells.
Marolii, whose only failing was a
weakness for bowing and politely
sucking in his breath between his
speeches, led the way, and was exceed
ingly attentive, Pointing to range
Of tubs containing fine specimens of
anguilla tenuirostrii, he remarked:
"These were caught this morning;
they were the most expensive fish in
in the Nippon Bashi market. Are
they not worth looking att"
"How do you contriye to so com.
pletcly extract their boneS?' | de-
manded. "Our cooks cannot accom-
plish the feat" Motioning lightly
clad servant to approach him he said;
"Some customers have just come in.
Prepare an eel in the presence of these
gentlemen" :"
The man, who evidently took great
pride in his work, selected vigorously
squirming fish, struck its head smartly
on wooden block placed upon the
floor, and, kneeling by it grasped the
creatures neck, inserted knife in the
left side of the vertebrtr and dexter
ously ran it down to the tail; then rap
idly applied his instrument to the 9th
cr side of the backbone, and repeated
the process, leaving the eel split open.
Holding up the head, to which was at
tached the vertebrH and lateral bones
inclosing the intcstines, he bowed and
said, "There is not a splinter left in the
fish,"
"That is So" proudly remarked the
proprietor; 81 only employ the most
skillful men and cooks" The opera
tor washed down the block, chopped
the fattened eel into three-inch
lengths, and shouted to Il cook who ad,
vanced and removed it on a dish.
The next process was mysterious
one, and was performed behind d
screen, from whence the platter of cels
was presently handed out to one of the
broilers My opinion is that the fish
had simply been plunged into boiling
water to make the skin tender. We
advanced to range and saw a cook
skewering the pieces of eel on long
bamboo sp.ints. Then he placed then
on the rods over the glowing coals, ant
when one side was Drowned, dexter
ously picked them up with a pair Of
iron chopsticks and turned them. Af
ter they were thoroughly cooked h(
seized the fish with the same instru
ment and plunged it into vessel con
tanning old shoyu, which was as thick
as dark molasses. The steaming unag
were then drained, placed in lacquer
box, and sent upstairs to the custom
| er.
1--WE never prepare our eels unit
they are ordered" remarked the pro
prietor. No matter how busy we may
be. l will not have the fish killed be
forehand."
"What do you do with the bones? p
| asked.
1--WE boil them down into a deliciou!
jelly, such as that with which you are
served. Nothing is wasted in this es
tablishment We think of the sever
virtues"
Another japanese fashion of cook
ing the eel is to take it alive and put
it, writhing, on red-hot gridiron
When the eel is dead, or in Other
words, roasted alive, the skin, which
after the roasting, contains all the oil
is stripped off, leaving the white flesf
tender and dry. But it is barbarous
cookery.--Ed,card Greey.