Morning journal and courier., 1883-07-20
Fashion Notes. From the Brooklyn Union.

There is every indication that changeable | or shot silks are to be popular this fall.
 They are already much worn.
 Very pretty seaside costumes are made of l satinette; either plain or printed, and the
 most stylish are trimmed with white or col l ored embroideries
 Drspsry for skirts is now worn short and l high. Paniers are made full at the back and l laid in close folds at the sides. Short | dresses are the rule and trains the exception
 Surah silks are invaluable at this time of year. especially the black ones. They are as | cool, if not cooler than muslin, and have in great measure displaced washing silks and foulards. They are most stylishly made up with killings on the lower skirt, with 8 short shirred apron and short drapery at the back.
 delightful morning drss for seaside or country may be made of birdsnest blue veil ing, the skirt having five lengthwise pleats from the waist to the hem in front, and about half that depth at the back. polonaise should be worn over it fully draped at the back and caught up quite short at each side, finished off with bows of narrow ribbon to match the material
 The cEinoline in modified form is clearly to be in fashion again. French dresses are con sequently made good deal fuller at the back than they were. Many of the white skirts to be worn under thin dresses have ruff1ings all the way up the back to the waist, giving in this way the extension for which the crinoline is considered desirable.
 Bright shades of yellow still very pop ular, and in some of the latest importatlons startling combinations arc found, as, for in stance, ruby velvet and amber-colored lace hounces for an evening dress, while stylish dinner dress is of deep peacock blue satin, with trimmings of light gold colored lace, the ribbons on the skirt and sleeves being of amber.
 From Paris accounts are sent of exceed
 
 known as horse chestnut, bishop violet or autumn green, consisting of a faille skirt, covered with pinked out ruches and very tight-ftting tunics of vigogne, either plain, plaided or with floral or miscellaneous de- signs. The bodice is shirred at the shoul- ders and the sleeves are full and set in high Narrow ribbons are worn round the waist and perfectly straight linen collar is worn. with these dresses and fastened with narrow ribbons instead of buttons or studs.
 One of the latest styles of ulster gives the effect of whole suit, and is intended to b0 worn without dress, but it is too heavy to be really desirable in such weather IS that of July and August. Dust cloaks are moro ser viceable and can be made of any light mater ial cloth, summer silk, dark linen or mohairs. The best way to make them is with a deep cape which will also form the sleeves. Some of the light travelling cloaks are remarkably pretty, and are made up in fine camels' hair, lined with thin silk or satin or of tWllled silk Most of them gathered at the neck as far as the shoulder, and drawn in somewhat at the back of the waist
 It is rather alarming, with the thermometer in the nineties, to learn that the fashion of heavy plaits and braids for the head is re- turning. The proper thing, it appears, is to wear the back hair, taken up from the roots and arranged over large twisted pad to form @ torsade, which is twisted into the shape of an 8. As few ladies possess enough hair for IaT~l AArr aTrarv kn fnd1 A cidedly hopeful about their trade prospects. The little knot of hair twisted tightly to the nape of the neck is out of date, and as 1t was decidedly trying to the majority, good many young ladies will no doubt congratulate themselves upon this fact. Unfortunately, crimps and bangs appear as popular as ever: There seems no chance of their going out of date.
 An account of an elegant trousseau recently provided for bride who has passed her first youth is interesting, The bridal dress itself was of cream-whlte satin, with long train and drapery drawn under an immense TO- sette to one side The bodice was deeply pointed back and front, the sleeves high, with full puffs extending over the ahouldeEss while the finish at the throat was with thick triple ruche of crepe plaitings and lace. Many of the dresses in the trousseau were made in similar style, and were of every va riety of material Morning dresses of India muslin had short waists, and broad belts were provided for them. The dress in which the bride started for the honeymoon was of changeabIe silk, with bonnet to match, and the duster worn over the dress was also of thin silk.
 Although the most fashionable yachting dresses are made in blouse style, good many at the leading stores have the jacket waist heavily braided. Very handsome ones are Tn lady cloth of very fine quality, the short skirt being attached to waist of linen, over 1, ,saI,A AL,1s o1x1k& FkNa Rat is half fitting and has outside pockets. Stand up collar and straight cuffs are often of diff ferent materials, serving the purpose of trimming The prettiest blouse suits Sze in fiannels favorite colors being navy blue and dark green, the large collars being often en- broidered in fanciful devices in bright colors. As protection against the weather in yacht ing the best ulsters are made of India rubber cloth, lined with thin flannel, a sort of long paletot with loose sleeves.
 Garden hats are larger than ever, and many of them are made entirely of shirred muslin. High crown straw hats have immensely wlde fiat brims, and the favorite trimming IS dot ted muslin and white pompons. More fash ionable shade hats are of Leghorn straw, and are trimmed with wbite satin and feathers, but the simpler style is the more popular. Straw bonnets are of every color; red straw, trimmed with black velvet and black and red entrants is stylish. Strings are still worn very narrow, two or three sets being often provided for a bonnet. Linen canvas ribbon, with gold cord on each edge, is much used for trimming them, often in combination with dark velvet ribbons.
 An authority upon such matters says that fancy woolen materials have been much more in demand this season than cotton goods. In any case they are 8 great deal more service able. The newest style for making them up is to have the skirt pleated and second skirt or tunic looped up very high at the side, and forming either panier or scarf drapery Tn front. Sometimes polonaise is made, diff fering from the tunic in that the bodice IS cut all in one piece with the second skirt. Ia that case the polonaise is caught up at the back into bunchy puff and arranged in front into upward pleats. Slight figures re- quire the bodice to be pleated or gauged in front with a belt round the waist Figured materials require less trimming than plain ones which are sufficiently trimmed with em. broidery or braid work put on in stripes all the way down. Little girls dresses are made up in the same fancy wooleu materials. Very pretty Princess dresses for small girls are made over a vest in front, which reaches con- siderably below the waist. Dresses for girls up to the age of 12 are made in one piece; after that with skirt and basque or polonaise
 Mrs. Julia E. S. Parker, the last survivor of the famous Smith sisters, of Glastonbury, and husband Amos A. Parker, have been the guests of Mir. and Mrs. Thomas s. Collier, of New London.
 The estates upon which inventories have been returned in the Hartford probate court during the last six months aggregate $1, 896,- 544 in value Included in the list is the es- tate of Ethe late Marshall Jewell, which fig ures up $639, 1864; the estate of Christopher c. Lyman, amounting to $252,O ,O89; Isaac E. Frisbie, $s2, ,971; George B. Hawley. $76,- 1s4; Jay H. Filley, $73,217; Esther E. Jew ell, $6O, 300.