Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-05-01
A6KOss THE RIO GRANDE.
A Day i'm the Ancient City OF
PasO del NOrte.
Ell PAso. TEX, April. 1888

eagerly down the main street, which
! runs down to the Rio Grande, some
half mile away. They could not sec
the river but could see the Mexican
mountains beyond. The idea Of cross
ing the river and bravely facing the
Mexican nation upon their own soil
was quite inspiring, if not appalling,
There were two ways of going: by
horse railroad and by hack. A car
risge was chosen, a solemn contract
made with the driver, who resembled
and acted very much like his kind
the world over. He was pious man
driving hack for his health and the
accommodation of the public. He
charged only barely enough to pay
expenses aud desired to leave the
matter of pay to his customers. So
a formal agreement was drawn
up, and he was limited to two
dollars an hour. With tears in his
eyes he handed in the crowd and drove
slowly toward the borders of the
other Republic. Owing to a habit
the people for two hundred miles
above here have of digging bitches and
drawing off the Rio Grande for irri-
eating purposes, there is not much
left of the historic stream when it
reaches Ri Paso. 1t Is possibly as
large as Nonconnah creek, but is
spread out over more ground. A boy
could wade across it without wetting
the sole OF his pants. In the middle
is the dividing line, but
the water is the same color on both
sides. On the bank there is little
station of one or two rooms. This is
the Mexican Customhouse. The
officers, looking like any otEer Mexis
cans, came out slowly, not expecting
to find any struggled goods, and per
haps never do. They look solemnly
into the bottom of the carriage and
walk back to the shade. The laws
and the forms of great nations have to
be observed even though it entails
great labor and care upon public Off
cials.
Paso Del Norte is very old and
strictly a Mexican city. 1t formerly
extended up and down the river some
fifteen miles, and contained a
population of 10000 or 100000
people. That must have
been two centuries ago. For some
reason it has dwindled down to place
of perhaps not more than 1000, and
quite scattering at that. The old
bitches or acequias are to be seen yet,
as at San Antonio, and many of them
are in use. The soil, when irrigated,
in the valley, is very productive, and
much Of it is in high state of cult
vation. That somebody works here
intelligently aud to good purpose is
quite apparent, though there is no
hustle and scarcely any life. The
fronts Of the houses are quite uniform.
All of them have courts within, and
many of them have gardens or little
fields attached. The front doors are
so much alike that a citizen in the
habit of staying out late at the lodge
or on committee of any kind, would
be liable to try his night key several
times before getting inside Of his own
domicile. Common garden vegetables,
the various fruits and grapes grow here
luxurisntly, and the people have the
Industry to supply their American
neighbors on the FL Paso side. A
white onion grows here to an enor.
nous size. 1t is fully as large as any
turnip. Grapes grow in great abun,
dance, and are manufactured into a
very pleasant wine, which is never
Ipermitted TO become very old-on the
American side. These are apparently
4 devout, simple minded, orderly set
Of people, who would be all the hap
pier if advsnturers would keep away
and introduce mono Of the so called
conveniences, the luxuries or vices of
what we call civilization. The men
and boys all wear blankets and broad
brimmed hats, also pants Of corduroy.
leather or heavy wooden stuff. Those
who stir out in the bush or cactus
need to be well protected, some wear
high boots, others only sandals and
some 60 barefooted. The women aud
children keep very close about the
houses. Something more of their
domestic life and ways will be written
from chihuahua. Suffice it to say
that girls do not 60 shopping alone, or
accept invitations from young men to
20 to picnics, spelling bees or straw
berry festivals. Americans who 20
home and assert that there is no
virtue or modesty among Mexican
women simply advertise the fact that
they have been associating with that
extremely low and refuse class of the
sex TO be found in every country and
age, and even alluded TO and described
by scriptural historians. 1t is not the
purpose Of these rambling sketches
10 90 into a profound discussion of
social, moral or political problems, but
1t is not out Of place to say that if the
better classes Of Mexieans are shy and
prejudiced toward the American
vanguard in their own country, there
are reasons for it that are deeper and
better founded than any fears Of an
nexation or revolution in the ways Of
business and customs OF Mexico.
The principal feature Of the old
town is the church. This was the FIRST
place visited by the Memphis party.
With uncovered heads we entered and
looked at the old pictures, the altar,
and the ancientrecords 9th venerable
| edi6ce. What energy, what zeal and
faith inspired the men who sought
r this remote spot in the wilderness to
, plant the cross and introduce a new
D civilization 1t is very wonderful Ia
think about. The building is FULLY
A three hundred years old and is wei
preserved. The paintings are similar
4 and almost as good as some to be seer
I in the old churches Of Europe. TIL,
. carvings are simple but in good taste
y / MI 1-al A