The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1883-04-17

trifle more dressy by adding open Hamburg
embroidery for trimming. Blue remains
favorite color for ginghams, but pink, Tur-
key red, brown and green shades are also
used, and found to wash as well as the stan
dard blue.
Dresses made with two pieces rival the
single-piece English dress for girls OF ten or
twelve years, and the former are worn alto
gether by girls In their teens. The skirt
with wide pleats is provided with an apron
drapery quite short in front, or half-long
apron, or one caught up on one side, with
simple and long black drapery that Is not
very bouffant. This is worn with plain
round basque, a belted and tucked Norfolk
jacket, or wool Jersey. Tailors use white,
brown, blue and red English cloths aud
Scotch Chevlots for these dresses, with very
simple finish of braid on the edges. In the
furnishing stores eashmeres of the new
shades of Jude, Havana browns, stem
green, rifle green, tan color, and the rasp-
berry and strawberry reds, with eornflower
blue of light and dark shades, are made up
in these dresses, and are varied by having
pleated and pulled vests and apron drapery
showing inch-square blocks of two or three
contrasting colors, or else the gay large
plaids are used, especially the strawberry
colored plaids. The pin-head checked
wool goods, with rows of soutache, and
nuns yelling trimmed with velvet ribbon, are
appropriate for schoolgirls dresses. Their
Jersey waists and their white pique English
dresses usually fasten behind, but those
with basques or Norfolk pleated jackets are
bettoned in front. Their Scotch Bingham
and linen lawn dresses are made with yokes
and full waists gathered to belt and but
toned behind, or with tucked belted blouses,
and may have one full skirt with two wide
tlounces, or else an apron oyer-skirt and
single tlounee on the palmer lower skirt.
For dress at school exhibitions they wear
sprigged or plain white musllns or nuns
yelling, with lace edging two or three gath
cred flounces, and blouse-waist with a
white sash ribbon tied around the waist line
instead of a belt, and tall girls have a short
panier overskirt. Colored straw pokes, with
ribbons cut in coxscomb notches, wide rolled
brim hats OF dark red or blue straw, with
luted edge on the brim and pompons for
trimming, and large English turbans that
resemble the toreador hats, with square,
turned-up crown, are chosen for misses (;
basket bonnets and those with pointed brims
are also popular for them. English walking
jackets plainly made in tailor fashion, or
else braided, are made of ecru, blue, or
mixed cloths TO wear with these English
hats.
Matching gloves to the dress Is entirely
cites. Lighter shades of tan-coiored gloves
than those worn during the winter are use d
with spring costumes for the street and on full
dress occasions; there Is also tendency to
more yellow shades of tan-color, showing
eeru rather than brown. Slate-color In va
rlous shades is offered as rival to tan-colors
with street dresses while pale blue and flesh
pink are seen with evening dresses, not,
however, matching the dress in color, but
more often in contrast with ii. White un.
dressed kid gloves are again in good style
with evening dress at dinners, the opera,
balls, and receptions. Black kid gloves are
less used with dressy toilettes than they
were last year. The Suede (undressed kidd
gloves are more fashionable than those of
dressed kid, aud these retain the long loose
wristed shapes closed on the arm and fas-
tened by two or three buttons at the wrist.
These are made plain, entirely without orna-
mental stitching, and with street dresses are
now put inside the sleeves, not drawn up
over them. For half-long sleeves the gloves
extend in wrinkles up TO the elbow, while
for wearing with short sleeves are gloves
that cover the arm its entire length in wrin-
kled, careless-looking fashion; these gloves
are fifty-four inches long, and dealers keep
them in three pieces, sewing on the third
part across the top, or emitting Ii, as the
purchaser wishes. There are also stylish
Engllsh-looking gloves of heavy kid with
three broad lines of stitching on the back /;
these have slender close wrists, smooth on
the arms, fastened by six buttons, and are
put inside the long nearly tight sleeves of
the plain dresses that are worn in the street.
Reddish mahogany and terra-cotta gloves
are not now worn, even with black dresses .
for these dresses yeliowish tan, slate, black,
and cream white shades are used, while
with white dresses are cream, tan, ciel blue,
and pink gloves. Later in the season silk
Jersey gloves and lace mitts win be worn in
many fanciful colors, while the quiet tints
quoted for Suede gloves will be repeated In
lisle-thread gloves for midsummer.