Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1883-02-10

lacking IN sense OF proportion, occupied
more space in the world than the wearer,
was of the coal-scuttle variety that out
scuttled any specimen of head-gear that
the modern world of fashion has ever worn
or witnessed. The study of this picture
serves not only to make US glad that we
did not live sixty years ago, but confirms
our faith in the beauty, gracefulness and
general charm and healthfulness of the
dress OF the women of to-day.
One of the prettiest and most fashiona.
bic shades of green used this winter by the
milliners is the shade known as the Linden
green. It is rather peculiar shade, some
thing between bronze and an olive green,
and has the advantage of lighting up beau.
tifully by gaslight. An exceedingly stylish
hat made OF this shade of velvet is formed
with medium-sized round crewn and roll
ing brim wide in front and narrow in the
back. The brim turns away from the face
and is finished with full soft shisring of
the velvet. Two plumes of the same shape
droop over the left side, and the remainder
of the trimming consists of finely plated
bands of velvet wound round the crown
and on the brim and drawn through fine
silver rings. Another pretty and fashions-
bic shade for bats and bonnets as well as
dresses is mahogany, and dainty little
bonnet made of this rich color has crown
composed of continuous rows Of leather
lace in a fine scroll-work design, with the
dark velvet showing through the inter
stices. the narrow brim is formed of three
rows of soft fine plaitings, one falling over
the other. The leather lace is caught to
the crown in the center by round buckle
OF filigree gold, and the three mahogany
tips ornament the right side in cluster
instead of the left side, as is usually the
case. The long, white velvet ribbons satin
lined tie under the chin in full, soft bow,
and the dark rich color forms most be-
coming frame to the face it encircles. Still
another shade, suitable only for evening, is
a cross between deep shrimp pink and
crushed strawberry. Il lights up better
than the more delicate shades of pink, and
is also more becoming to brpnettes of
pronounced type, while the more delicate
shades are better adapted for adjoining
fairer ladies.
Many of the principal dressmakers have
lately edged their dress skirts with mar.
row putting, instead of the ordinary plisee,
and in velvet especially this seems pre-
ferred. Many skirts, particularly those of
handsome materials, have the edges ar
ranged in several "pls d'orgue"-i. e.,
large futed folds alternating with plain
spaces, these frequently covered by hand
some medallion ornaments. French "rose"
ruches are in high vogue for white or tinted
silk toilets where the dress is cut with
train. Chivrees, double rows of coquillee
ruches, and she'll plaitings placed one
above the othsr are all equally fashionable
modes Of decorating the bottom of the
skirt. In the aforementioned trimming the
shell plating plscsd nearest the foot OF
the skirt has its lower edge turned up on
the right side and 60 blind stitched" down.
The upper shell plating is fringed on each
edge and caught up to show just halt OF
the lower plating. Az was suggested in
former column, this style of full, rampant
trimming is out of place on short dancing
dresses.
Demi- toilets are very fashionably made
OF black faille they are quiet and ele-
giant looking, always appropriate, and
almost as wear-defying as alpaca. a hand
some black costume is made with the short
skirt trimmed with fan plated founces,
headed by narrow ruching. The second
skirt is draped low ON the right side and
raised high on the left with black silk
cord and ornaments. The jacket bodice is
made with close coat.sleeves buttoned from
| the back of the wrist to the elbow. A fall
Of black Spanish lace, headed by a ruching,
trims the V.shaped opening in the neck.
Another new style in French giants is
called the Cromwelhan gauntlet. The stiff
upper part covers the wrist and lower halt
of the arm, thus protecting it from cold.
Tho ef,G ,,lot,ao h1rN As IL
are counterfeited as nearly as possible in
the modern gauntlet; but fashions of this
kind require certain amount of chic
to carry them off with aplomb.
Small capotes are made of kid, plain or
fancy velvet, faille, or lace, and are
trimmed chiefly with feathers and lace
cockades. Some pretty matinee bonnets
are of shell pink or cream plush trimmed
with tips and tied with narrow ribbons.
But broad ribbon strings will be more fash
ionable in spring goods.
The originstors of the bonbonniere,
which simulate the form Of fashionable
| bonnet, and may be worn as such when the
bonbons are exhausted, have excited the
competition of the milliners, who have in
turn, by way of reptisals, invented new
bonnet, which may serve as bonbonniere
Wide fcunces of antique lace, and laces
of every description which have been out
of style for years-Caantilly, Honiton,
Guipure, Flemish point, and the ike-are
this season revived, and are used to ORA pc
courtly dinner and reception dresses for the
stately danes and dowagers.
Jerseys are coming more and more into
use as ladies appreciate their artistic and
serviceable qualities.
All the new cravats and scarfs are very
full in effect over the front of the bodice.
Black satin is an affectation for ball
toilets for young married ladies.
Cats heads are coming into fashion as
ornaments for hats and muffs.
Blouse waists will be much worn with
muslin dresses this season.
Chsmbery gnghams are to be in great de-
mand for spring wear.
A girl of Is should never think of wear.
ing high couture.
White china Grape is lovely for necker-
chiefs and cravats.
Farcful wells OF dotted gauzs and tulle
are new fashion.
Scotch plaid is used for the dresses of
little children.
Plush rosebuds and leaves are worn with
party dresses.
Low couture AID bandeaux are the rule
in Paris.
Braided j,ckets are going out in Paris.
.-~---s.-1.s-z.-~--.
USE OF WHALEBoNE.- principal ap-
= L. Il
ing whips and corsets Steel has mostly dis.
niaced whalebone in umbrellas and nara