Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1883-05-31
tErom the New York Tin es, ]

| with velvet This is most successful COM
| bination. The velvet bands are generally
| covered with bands of embroidery or of
worked lace, and are most snowy over lawns
and batistes. Summer tissues are very ele-
CANT this year, and suits of satinette OF
'toile de Jouy" are quite as costly as ordina'
ry silk dresses Light tissues are however,
preferred by French women, who rather ia
vor what is simple and handsome to the more
snowy styles. Fine batistes lawns or cotton
foulards can be used the whole season with.
out washing or if washed only once. These
materials, when of ordinary quality, fade
Immediately, and, the trimmings are more
expensive than the goods, it is no economy
to purchase any but the best.
Brownish or ecru dresses may be renovated
by employing velvet trimmings. Take fol
example bands of green, orange, red ol
brown velvet for the bordering of the under
| skirt and cover them with bands of ecru en-
broidery, or of brownish or ecru embroidered
lace. The same kind of trimming may be
on the border of the unique and scarf or or
panel shaped trimmings. A dress can bt
thus altered at very triAing cost, as velyeteer
serves for the purpose, and the embroidered
bands are to be obtained at all prices. Al
brownish and ecru dresses made this yea1
have small 'Donairiere" mantles to match
The nantles may be of the material of the
dress or of embroidered tulle in the style o.
| the trimming. It has but one seam and Ii
taken well in to the figure in the back. Tive
long ends fall from the waist down the bacl
| over the position and drapings. The ends
| in front are also very long and pointed. Il
the velvet trimming is red, the lining of this
small garment may be of 'ssurah croise" il
| the same color. The lining matches the vel
l vet in hue The mantle is trimmed around
with velvet, and the shoulder-pieces and ep-
| aulets are also of velvet. On the lower part
| of the garment are two brownish lace ruch-
| ings This mantle may serve for wear over
| several dresses. Skirts of all light fabrics
| may be puffed and fastened under scarfs
They may have double draperies and small
aprons over paniers. Lace can be used In
quantities without danger of overtrimming.
Winter dresses can be altered into summer
ones by covering Ottoman skirts with flat
overskirts of chenille tulle bordered with
fringe. The same overdress may be of Cor
done or Spanish lace. but they are not so
Youthful as the tulle. The marquise sleeves,
breast piece and bordering of the basque are
made to match. Overdresses are also of
brownish lace to be worn over all light
surah skirts. i
English wooden goods and summer 'limou-
sines' are used for suits, including outer gar
n1ents CONNECTIONS are also to be seen of
serge, with an amber-colored grounding and
broad stripes in pale tints. Bridal travelling
suits consist of silk skirt polonaise and
duster The round, fiat skirt is boFdered
with two plaitings, headed by full serge
trimming The simple polonalse Is draped
under a scarf, which is taken from under the
side seams and tied on the left side The
duster is large plain garment with an open
ing for the arms, which starts from the neck
and terminates at the wrist. Navy blue toi-
lets continue to be in vogue for young girls.
suitable way of making these Is with
false skirt bordered with fiat plated founce.
The overskirt may be of yelling, cachemire
or of plain stamped serge 1t forms
square apron waved crosswise, and the back
falls in slight lengthwise waves. 1t is also
square on the end. Where the apron opens
on either side is quille-plaited trimming in
the shape of V. The apron is fastened to
the middle of the skirt under ribbon ro
sette. The plated guile extends to the low
er part of the skirt over the f1ounce. The
waist is pointed and the vest is plated to
match the side trimmings on the skirt.
Around the apron and on the back of the
skirt is a trimming of cachemire galloon
placed on fiat to fasten down the .crossw1se
waved pIaits on the apron. This style of
dress is very pretty when of plain goods.
Different fabrics may serve for the guile,
and the trimmings may also vary. For nuns
yelling and cachemire it is necessary to have
cachemire galIoon. Materials with patterns
of fruit and vegetables are more fashionable
than floral designs. The favorite fruits for
this purpose are plums, cherries, peaches and
grapes stamped on very light fabrics. This
makers are doing all in their power to make
some pretty combinations with the tissues.
One of these consists of red surah skirt
trimmed with pieces of black velvet bordered
with ruchiugs of brownish lace. The over
dress has punches of green grapes Small
silk stcorselets" in the color of the skirt are
again to be seen. Silk waists are low in the
neck with muslin or lace ones underneath,
and sleeves to match. Skirts of lawn, veil
ing or batiste are wholly covered with puff
fngs.
A walking suit may be of moss green
cachemire and Scotch plaid surah. The false
skirt is covered with a surah plating bor-
dered with lace Over the hip on the right
side is q large rounded plating which is
taken under the draperies of the unique.
The lace which borders the plating of the
skirt is taken up the front on either side of
center trimming composed of green cache
mire sewed very full against the false skirt
The plain cachemire is draped on the upper
part of the skirt in short apron. second
small drapery forms panier In the back
is cachemire putting reaching to the lower
part of the skirt. The cachemlre waist |
opens in front over plated surah vest. 1t
is pointed in the neck and below the waist to |
show the surah vest. The small side front
pieces are cut high above the hips, and
trimmed with bias band of plaid surah,
falling below the goods of the waist. The |
back of the waist is tailleur shape, and |
forms a basque consisting of two round |
plaits The sleeves are long and tight fitting. |
They are finished at the wrist with surah |
cuffs, surmounted by shell shaped lace. On |
either side of the opening in the neck are |
lace revers. The hat matching this suit is of |
basket straw in rustic style. 1t IS lined with |
green velvet. Around the crown is band
of green ribbon velvet. In front Is large
''alsacier" bow of similar velvet Another
suit is of brown and beige-colored checked
xuith vInlef-cOlOr6Q
The false skirt is of light silk covered with
q plating of checked goods Inc WOODEN
is taken in to the figure by means
of two darts, and buttons down the 'front.'
under a broad velvet band: Inc emu on tne
riobt side of the polonaise falls straight,
vbile the one on the left turns backward.
Roth ends are trimmed with broad velvet
hands On the lower part of the back of
he nolonaise is q breadth of goods raised in
the center and trimmed with two large velvet
oops Down the center, over the back
,eam terminating at the waist, Is bias piece
IF velvet The deep turned down collar is
.lso of velvet. The long, tight-fttng sleeves
nave deep velvet cuffs. The capote match
ng this suit is covered with tulle worked
Rith beads The brim of the bonnet is
trimmed with velvet and a bunch of tortoise
,olored ostrich tips. The strings are of VIC
ct colored velvet.
II is the style to have reception dresses
more elegant than walking suits, but not SO
howy as dinner dresses They are general
v short with lace waist trimmings and a
bouquet in the center. The sleeves are
hort to the elbow, and the arms are covered
" long undressed kid gloves. Snowy ear
.ines and bracelets are worn for this pur-
pose. The hair has such ornaments as shell
,ins and combs or diamonds Flowers and
Gathers are not "de rigueur" for these occa
ions.
A snowy bridal dress consists of satin
nerveiIleux skirt with the lower part trimmed
With deep feunce of Alencon lace, sur
mounted by putting The broche tunique