Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1883-09-13
THE FASHIONS.
New Colors for Fall CIoaks and their
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Again

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Again
Buttons.
N. Y. Tribune, Sept. 8.
The secret Of dressing we'll was
long since discovered by American
women, who know and appreciate the
durability and beauty of American
s%atins, brocaded silks and figured vef-
vets. VelYets will be largely man
ufactured both with low piIe.and
brocaded OH satin or repped grounds.
These styles are also extensively ims
ported. and willall appear for autumn
in new and old favorite colois such as
canette Tor duckling) green, with
changing hues, and all mauner of
other chapgeable colcrs-the grays
that play into the intense blue shades,
the chameleon MOSES and tints OF
myrtle; the pretty water-green, crese
son or cress, with changing blue
lights. The popular Havana brown
returns again, also seal brown and
the warm chaudron or copper hues.
A large family of grays is represented
in various shades minglIng into the
latest green, brown and buff. Burned
cream takes precedence of crushed
raspberry, which has gone ont with
scorched banana, freckled green gage
and terracotta. Autumn-leaf color
takes the place of the latter. Sandal
wood and castor beaver, tints of del
icate light shades, are seen in lieu OF
cafe au lait and foanled chocolate.
Every variety OF warm, wavy. golden
and yellow tints is seen. Biscuit,
fawn, mignonette and beige complete
the present1ist. For the rest there
are new fabrics Of softest wool and
Of silk in tints of gold, amethyst and
sapphire that glow into fame or melt
into shade.
Among the most important of the
earlist i~mportations passementerie
and other trimmings take an inter
esting part. These are quite as necs
| essary as toilet accessories as foliage
to the flower or tree. The present
exhibit shows a fantastic richness Of
chenille, silk, and satin cord, and
piping, velvet, and glittering c%ut-iet,
| reproducing ferns and fronds, tufted
and tasselled plumes. bosses in the
shape of %visors, tunnels and peaked
crowns.
A wide band is formed of Il large
curying leaf Of fine chenille edged
With large cut~iet beads: overlap>
ping this is another leaf of beads and
fine satin piping. An extremely rich
design of satin piping is laid in grace
full vines of silk cord, and from this
bends a dropping lily of chenille, al
terrating with heavy chenille foliage,
below this fall pendants of chenille
s~pike-shaped. A garland of pond
lilies and foliage and buds is beaded
by velvet in sugar-loaf shape, ali
edged and sparkling with cut-jets
and chenille. A wide band is formed
of large velvet leaves with serrated
edges bordered with fine cut>jets and
vined satin cords and beads. A beau
tiful design is Il band of immense
pansies with cut-leaf calyxes, two of
the petals of the fnosS chenille, the
other three of satin cord veined with
chenille. A style Of double pansy
made with satin piping forms a band:
from each drops ii long stem dotted
with beads and bordered here and
there with leaves. Other bands are
formed into satin piping rosettes aud
dropping Milan balls, dragons, the
rose, birds wings, the, chain buckle,
peaks fashioned likesa ships Prov, |
chain ma /, and aitmanner of odd
concerts, are ~intricatefy made Of fine
chenille, silk cord, satin piping, and
beads Of all SKIES. Thick cut-iet
stems form a band of foliage showing
very large satin cord leaves veined
with fine cat>iet; large pears of dull
jet beads droop fronI long stems.
Among the new cloak ornaments
are some novel designs in irridos cent
colors-on oxidized metal, the centre
III trefoil or wheels, Il dragon either
side. Other kinds in scroll work of
tinted oxidized silver, have horses i'll
relief. and harness, whips and spurs
ingeniously wrought i'll the edges.
There are other fourrageres of metal
in Persian designs. The golden sun
CLOVIS where the clasp met, and on
the outer space are finely engraved
the fire-worshippers. Some large
crescents of mother, of-pearl and dark
shaded pearl OF magnificent colors
are studded with glitteriDg steel
stars.
EXQUISITE floral and other styles
are seen for pendants and ornaments.
A large set of forgct-me~nots are
made Of fine chenille and silk cord
placed in clusters: from these drop
large chenille and satin balls and tas-
sells. three leaves Of cut-iet bend over
the flowers.
There are many varieties of beau
tiful set pieces OF jet and chenille for
right and left. One of them IN large
jet leaves is outlined with very large
Jet balls. Another is a mass OF cone
shaped satin droplets finished with
Jet drops. A superb trimming for IA
wrap is made of the richest passemen-
terie cord and chenille i'll intricate
designs. The droplets are IL cluster
Of large silk cherries with foliage of
silk and chenille. Some Of the
fourrageres come in sets Of eight.
A set of these is made OF latticed
satin and silk cord and long oval
balls and large nut.shaped chenille
balls, connected by a double chain of
large silk cords and balls of chenille.
A garniture adapted for velvet, silk,
OF cloth, is IN the shape OF the
lozenge windows of a church, beau-
tiful in its black velvety depths; the
fringe Of caterpillar chenille, each
piece finished with a large, fluffy ball,
hang like a cluster of grapes, one
over the other, and may be used in
either way that fancy dictates, horl-
zontally or otherwise.
The charm of lace is not altogether
confined to the delicate creamy or
white airy fabric so loved by women.
for the black lace %houncing, hard
wrought, is exceptionally beautiful.
A specimen nearly ayard WIDE of the
finest mesh is worked heavily with
silk IN small roses and blossoms. The