Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-04-04
OUR NEXT DOOR NEuGnBOR.
Glimpses 1t Contemporary Life In
Mexico.

US out from behind tawny sand bank Clean
cut against keen. full blue sky stood church
towers and domes. surmOunted by FURNISHED
crosses; here and there stately palms might be
perceived en- silhouette, while snOw-white
houses, adorned with colored Venetian blinds,
peeped over walls and Notifications ragged and
Jagged as the outer surface of a rough oyster
shell. On the right feathery column of white
smoke Indicated the direction of the railway
and on the extreme left stretched dull, dead
plain of sand all without break save the dust
raised by train of passing donkeys, till it met
the sky line. Dim and shadOwy specters filed
the background mountains jealousy enshrouded
In a mantle Of clouds. What scene! There is
no time to take notes; our cOpper-cOlored boat
men. IN ever so white drawers, cut away at the
knee. scanty tunics and straw sOmbrerOs. are
nearing our boat to the shore; such flashing
teeth, g!ittering eyes, and blue-black hair
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CAPITAL
had scarcely been day In the City of Mexico
when sailed forth for the purpose of purchas-
ing map, guide book and pocket dictionary,
in Spanish and English. imagining that had
nothing to do but to enter the first bookstore,
pay my money and take my choice. No such a
thing. | wandered from one shop to another.
Invariably asking the same question, and inyari-
ably receiving the same reply: "NO, senior: the
Americans have bought every guide book and
Spanish and English dictionary in the city. We
have written to Europe, and expect a fresh
supply in six or seven weeks" In the City
OF Mexico everything has Spanish look,
and Is as different from what one sees in the
United States, even at New Orleans. as Italy or
Spain is from England. The sun Is hot. too hot
from III to to walk much, except in the shade;
so horses are recommended. In Mexico no one
VINO can afford to buy horse of any kind ever
goes on foot The horses are mustangs. small.
Il or Is hands high, the price being from $50 to
$50; but good horses are to be bought Occa-
slonally for halt this price Horses are seldom
shOd; they are taught to walk and canter per-.
fectly. Their mouths are so fine that they an
swer to the slightest movement of the bit On
my first canter down the Pasee | slightly
checked my horse on approaching some rough
stones he stopped dead short, and so suddenly,
so Unexpectedly, that still marvel how kept
my seat.
QUAINT AND PICTURESQUE EFFECTS.
One thing that strikes stranger in the streets
Is that many of the buildings are sunken and
distorted, on account of the foundations sink
ing by reason of the spongy nature of the
ground. Most of the church towers have set
tied out of the perpendicular; SO have many of
the public buildings, notably the Minerva, or
school of mines, whose magnificent facade is,
owing to this, more of a wayy than straight
line. In some streets the handsome dOOrways
OF the houses have sunk foot or two below the
pathway, and the head must be low
cred on entering. l noticed that the
foundations OF all new buildings are
lett level with the ground for wear
OF two. to enable them to settle before the
is added. Earthquakes do occa-
slonal damage, and the last one, some 40 years
PACK, destroyed several churches. 1t is for this
reason that the palace and most of the houses
are only built two stories high, and all the prin-
cipal buildings appear sufficiently massive and
solidly built to withstand ordinary shocks of
earthquake. All the houses in the streets are
very quaint and picturesque many of them en-
riched with quaint carvings, stucco ornaments
Dright cooring, and large striped sunshades or
blinds to the windows and balconies, behind
which the young ladies OF all degrees puff cigar
cites and make eyes at their beaux in the street
The streets are at right angles to each other
from north to south and from east to west They
are perfectly straight-there is not a curve in
any OF them-but the mOnOtOny is relieved by
squares and gardens some of the cross streets
are very short.
TIE MEXICAN PRESS.
Mexican newspapers have rather continental
official announcements, and novels
or other light reading being prominent fea-
tnre. There are IL scientific, IS political. re-
ligious and literary newspapers published in
the city. Many OF the political papers appear
ually, the type and the paper being fairly good
That there may not be wanting supply of
readers in the next generation. the municipality
sustains 35 day schools for boys and 45 for girls
beside many night schools; some of these Wis
tied. and found the course construction similar
TO what Is given in other countries.
DAILY LIFE OF THE PEOPLE.
The City Of Mexico is what Paris is to France,
being the seat of government, the center of 4
rapidly growing railroad system, the mart of
commerce and the abode of nearly all the
wealthy land owners of the republic. Life and
saw large knife taken from under the cloak Of
a countryman when he was searched at the city
gates. Police are stationed about 100 wards
apart all over the city. They are well-dressed,
and paid 81 per day. There are several things
which strike stranger favorably in the streets
without crushing or crowding Ladies
and children can return from the the
aters, cafes, or the Zocalo, at late hours
of the night without .molestation or such
offences as might cross their path in London;
and what has been accomplished in a city of
800. 600 Inhabitants is being extended to the
neighborng cities and country districts. with
every prospect OF soon rendering all parts of
the country as safe to travel in by day or night
as In the City of Mexico itself The Mexican
world keeps early hours. Chocolate about Z a.
m; heavy square NEAL called al,nuerzo, it
may be breakfast, luncheon or dinner, between
II and 2; in the evening, chocolate ices or some
light reireshment. followed by the opera, thea
tiers, or, what to me was far more preferable. an
excellent band of music in the gardens of the
Plaza. The hotel and boarding house accommo-
daton OF the city is barely sufficient for the pre-
sent influx OF American visitors; and, should a
gentleman desire to visit the city with
his wife and family. it would be well
to secure rooms beforehand by telegram
or letter. The Mexican hotels are for
lodging only. and your meals must be eaten at
the restaurant attached. or elsewhere. as fancy
may dictate. The street called San Francisco
street. prolonged by Los Plateros. nearly
mile in length. and running from the Plaza
Mayor to the beautiful gardens of the Alameda.
is, from its position and excellent shops, the
most attractive and fashionable street in the
city. The new street of the CincO de Mayo. from
the Teatro NaciOnal to the cathedral. is partly
under construction. It will be noble street
when completed and the avenue of trees con-
tlnued its whole length; but, unless it is lined
with shops 1t will not compete, from business
point OF view. with San Francisco street, which
is the great thOroughfare of the CITY. The
shops have perky, Partisan appearance not
that Of the palatial establishments on the boule-
wards, but rather that of the third-class
streets Of Paris. The city swarms with soldiers,
and the sound Of the trumpet-call startles the
ear at all hours Of the day and In the most I'M
expected places. The soldiers are generally seen
walking about loosely in large groups under
the charge of an officer or of the sergeant-this
for fear of their abscOnding. They are sodierly
In md Tosr .,,o11