Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-10-06

| bad leading In defiance of their own better in
stincts and sounder judgment.
The newest sleeve consists OF the revival OF
one that was very fashionable forty years ago.
at time "spencers" were in fashion, and also
braiding and braided embroidery as ornamental
ton. 1t is arranged as a series of falls or ruff
| f1es one above another, and is not only suscep-
| tible of graceful and diversified effect, but
adapts itselft to the present cut of the bodice,
and adds much to its distinction. Epaulettes,
stuffed rOalleaur, bows Of ribbon with ends, orn-
aments connected by cords with others upon
the waist, are all employed to decorate the top
OF the sleeve and emphasize the brevity Of the
dlstance-three inches-between the top of the
armhoe and the standing collar at the throat.
The difficulty In cutting sleeve is to get suffi-
cient length over the top Of the arm to make 1t
easy and free In movement; and to do this it is
ABSOLUTELY necessary to have some fullness.
VI course some ladies and some dress makers
VIII nave as little as pOssible others who under
stand how to dispose of it, lay it In diagonal
folds which are brought together on the inside
OF the arm toward the front, and are finished
with a soft rosette of silk or ribbon. Satin
Duchesse, the new radZimer silks, rich brocades
and velvets yield gracefully to such gentle
manipulation.
The terraced sleeves are better adapted to
lace and thin evening materials-tulle, gauze.
and the like-but lovely effects are produced in
embroidered India silks and nuns yelling. and
also in Canton crepe which lends itself especially
to softly falling effects.
''PRETTY ARMS"
A girl OF seventeen, who signs herself with the
heading to this paragraph, writes an appealing
little letter asking for advice, and reciting
reasons why she should wear short sleeves or
sleeveless evening dresses; the principal one of
Which-in fact, the only one, is that she has
pretty arms and wants to show them.
Oh! Pretty Arms-dO you not know that love-
~ white arms are much more lOnged for when
they are suggested. not seen. Are pretty arms
your only beauty? Is there any reason why you
should expose them to the garish light to the
rude gaze of the vulgar and not other pretty
parts OF your body3 you not know that 1t is
not the man who truly loves you, or who would
be likely to truly love you who would see with
pleasure this display Of "vevet softness, this
exposure to the eyes, and touch of uninterested
and scol1ing spectators? man who is capable
OF true love has an instructive reverence for it's
ODject-tO him she is a shrine not to be ap-
preached indifferentIy-nOtt to be thought of or
spoken Of unwOrthily.
1t is In the power of young women to always
preserve this reverence in the. minds of men.
and 1t Is Infinitely better to do this than excite
impure thoughts, or pander to degrading pas-
sions Dear, pretty arms know you have
no evil In your thoughts know how blissful
it is to be young, to love life and gayety. to
have pretty arms, and be capable OF giving
pleasure; but do not be in haste; cultivate your
resources; do not distribute them or lavish them
on the Indifferent and unworthy.
bye-and-bye you will wish you had more, and
and If he Is such as he ought to be, he is culti.
waiting himself at this moment for you-growing
In splendid stature in manhood, in honor in
strength. in loyal devotion to his most cher
ished Ideals; and would not it be pity If you
missed him on account of your barred arms
those pretty arms that you think are capable of
30 much execution? For the higher and truer
your knight the more sacred will be the ideal
lady OF his love, and he will never look for her
in one who wears her arms outside her sleeves
for pQpinjays to peck at.
Wish it were possible to make "Pretty
Arms, and all young women see how unutter-
ably debasing 1t is to set fashion and prettiness
above all other OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES and even
morality. Think for moment OF some of the
fashions OF to-day-the glove-htting bodice. the
pan1ers (Which emphasize the hips), the revived
crlnolette and the pufrery at the top of the
skrt-the suggestiveness of the whole ensem-
Die, which seems made to accentuate the differ
ence In sex, and which we should consider too
Indecent for wear without cloak to cover 1T
If we were not accustomed to following any
lead-and believing that whatever is in fashion,
at any rate, is right.
Think Of this subservience in weakening the
influence OF women with good men! 1t is the
night, the place. the sacred duty of women to
supply men with ideals and aspirations; to in
spire their manhood with something nobler
than the ambitions. the strivings, the selishness
that enter into their daily lives but what inspi-
ration can they find in woman who yields her
sell unreservedly to every caprice of French
milliners BARRIERS and courtesans; surrounds
herself with their influence as with an atmos-
phere. and does not dream of asserting an indi-
viduality of her own. even though her own wo-
manhood aud the welfare Of future generations
depend upon it.
Remember, my "Pretty Arms, it Is this ques-
ton Of dress and exposure of the charms of
person that lies at the root of everything that
Is dishOnOrable weak and hurtful to women.
and also of whatever is noble, strengthening
and elevating.
No woman can possibly have made any great
advance In the line of self-help and achievement
VINO has not, more or less emancipated herself
from the bondage OF her clothes-who does not
value the sacred rights and dignity of her
womanhoOd more than the vulgar admiration
extorted by striking dress and liberal display
OF personal attractions.
DECORATIVE AND USEFUL NOVELTIES.
Among the novelties in jewelry and fancy
articles are new pins for the lace or ribbon at
the throat. One In silver represents half moon.
with the profile of a man set in the hollow of
the disk-the crescent thrown across silver bar
which is furnished at the ends with stars.
Another shows small bronzed head of horse.
with tiny gold whip twisted about it, hoof
forming the handle this head is wedped
in between narrow bars, forming the
frame OF the pin. still more curious
design consists of small plumed hat in bronzed
metal laid across a sword in it's scabbard: the
sword draws out and can be used as min. it's
handle forming an ornamental head lnde-
pendent of the brooch. Leaflets in colored
silver, with Rhine pebbles. like dew drops upon
them. are very pretty. only the drops are too
large, they would look more natural if they
were finer and smaller.
The snowy gilt and gilded jewery is now
quite out OF date-all the designs are copied
from the antique and reproduce frescoes,
ancient coins flagree work in metals-antique
heads and the like. There are Japanese fans. in
miniature, of hammered metal: with raised fig-
ures OF gold, and which form very pretty orna-
ments; and medallion pendants which might
have been dug out of some old Creton tomb, so
completely do they reproduce in appearance
these relics Of lost race.
HOofs are to play an important part in fancy
wares this season. OttOmans for receptions are
covered with skins of beasts with their hoOfs
for standards. Small hoOfs are used as handles
to new blOtters. made like garden rollers, the
paper passed around central bar set in brass
frame, removable and replenishable as often as
required. A hOOf set lengthwise serves as a bar
for bronZed bird whose head opens to admit
ink; on either end are bronzed candlesticks, so
that the whole serves as a complete night writ
Ing apparatus where gas Is not available.
very handsome new hall decoration consists ola