The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1883-08-25
SOCIAL LIFE In MEXICO.
Habits and Manners of Those Who
Dwell in the Halls of Montezuma.
why So Little Is Known About Our Sister
Republic-A Mexican Market-The Ser
yaar Observation-Disclosures of Travelling.


it really Isl but, you know, We judge of
things only by comparison, and as there is
nothing in our own country at all like thisi in
any sense, shall be able to convey but a
vague and imperfect idea 1t seems strange
that sister republics, lying side by side
whose interests are bound to soon be
identical, should remain in such
profound ignorance of each others affairs
Indeed, so far as knowledge OF the other is
concerned, Mexicans of the higher class
know much more about our country than
Americans know of Mexico and the reason
is obvious. There is no middle class here
only the rich and highly-educated, and the
very poor and utterly ignorant The rich
and cultured Mexican is naturally traveller,
beginning, invariably, with the old world
before visiting the country next his own.
Most of them are educated in the universities
of France, Spain and Germany Ito degree
which the average American never attains,
especially in the languages, all Latin peo-
pies being natural linguists), and after their
studies and travels abroad they generally re-
turn to the land of the cactus and palm, via
New York, Boston or New Orleans. Until
very recently, since the railroads have begun
to lesson somewhat the difficulties and dan
gers of travel, all Mexico, except its ancient
capital, and the less than half-a-dozen unim-
portant ports which its whole water-line can
boast, was of necessity a terra incognita,
which few tourists dared or cared to explore.
Not only was there no means of getting
about, except on donkeys with now and
f1,a r,ri1
cities, over the worst roads it is possible to
conceive but the language offered no less
formidable barrier than the strange customs
and habits of totally7diferent race not TO
mention the frequent revolutions that for
more than a hundred years made human life
of little value in Mexico. True, Americans
came and went (for where will they not COY,
but the class who are cursed by lust of lucre
or love of adventure are not generally
troubled much with cacoethis scribendi, and
and few records of their findings were given
to the world. The average reporter who
comes here to-day land his name is le-
gion) rushes through the country
and knows little more of the real
Mexico when he gets through than when he
began. Such a sensitive, proud, seclusive
race is this, that every trace of the home life
of the higher classes is sacredly shielded
from the public gaze and it is difficult, nay,
as impossible, for the stranger to penetrate this
reserve in a spirit of idle curiosity, as to gain
admittance within the walls OF Turkish
harcm. So the enterprising reporter is fain
to judge of the people by the poems (serfs)
whom he meets and wanders through these
narrow streets, with no means of knowing
what may be within the solid walls. The
GALES (streets) of most Mexican cities are ex-
hOnSac of adn
plastered stones, with fiat adobe roofs, like
floors, stretching in one unbroken line from
end to end, the side of one house forming the
partition wall of the next. The fronts of the
houses outside are generally colored-pae
blue, strawberry red or bright yellow, with
dado and fresco decorations, as we some
times ornament our rooms. while Others are
painted i'll striped, plaided or figured pat
terms, precisely like printed calico. The
streets are as bad as those of Chicago before
the fire. all ups and downs, and as no two
houses are ever exactly the same height,
the effect, taken as a whole, would craze a
master mason who can't endure to see
things "out of plumb" However much a
Mexicans fancy may run to decorated adobe
be never thinks OF painting his woodwork
Each house has one enormous wooden door,
opening in the center like that of barn,
but ii is generally such door as a respect
able Pennsylvania farmer would scorn for
his beloved barn. Sometimes, especially in
the Oldest houses, the doors are deliberately
carved but never painted. They are
necessarily so large because guarding
the only entrance to house, court and
corral, the same passage serving for the in
gress and egress OF guests and donkeys
household stores, provender carts and car
riages. The windows are very wide, reaching
nearly from floor to ceiling always with
heavy wood or iron bars before them, like
cages. All this looks gloomy and desoate
enough without and one can only guess at
bloom, verdure and human life within, by
the great fg-trees lowering above the house
tops, the scent of orange blossoms and roses
in the air, and glimpses of dark-eyed senor-
itas imprisoned behind the bars.
The Mexicans have other reasons than
their pride for extreme reserve toward for
eigners, and especially, l am very sorry
to say, toward Americans. l have had
occasion many times to blush for my
country or rather for the conduct
of some of its representatives here Perhaps
it is the case with all countries that the men
and women who drift over the border are gem
orally the scum of society-the failures and
cranks and disappointed ones, if not those
whose actual misdeeds have exiled them
from their own land The American nation
has been proverbial for its abuse, of hospital
ity ever since King Philip saved our ances-
tors from starvation by his generous gifts of
maize. Mexicans are by nature extremely
nospitable, but again and again has their gen
crosby been abused, their trust betrayed by
foreigners whom they have received into
their homes, until they have been forced to
the wise determination to admit none who
are not properly vouched for. Naturally,
the feeling of distrust has grown to undue
proportions, and, as In the Bible plan-"In
Adams fall, we sinned all'-the innocent
are obliged to suffer for the sins of the
guilty. Should L undertake to tell
you, never so delicatey, the doings of
some Americans of both sexes In this city,
IVNn1 nF xxl,D N.A IL
the most generous hospitality, when they
came with false letters OF Introductory our
good editor would refuse to publish and you
to read. There are few 0 pectable Ameri-