New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-05-31

| feat and produced one of the most complex aud
ingenious inventions Of modern times Heathcoat
ufacture OF machine lace, and helped to raise Not
| tingham to its position of Importance among tho
manufacturing towns of Great Britain by the con-
| structon of a machine which Ure describes as
SURPRISING every other branch Of industry by the
complex ingenuity of its machinery bobbn:net
as .hss IS ros
ingjack." A great check to the then fast
increasing prosperity Of Nottingham lace manufac-
several years discouraged industry in the Midland
and Northern countless and an account of which
gave In my Huddersfield letter.
The next improvement on Heathcoat's machine
was made by Lever. 1t is described as far moro
delicate and complex in construction, and suited to
| the production of fancy and ornamental work. It's
| movements rapid that no eye can follow its
| countless evolutiOns. Great skill is required in
managing it, and single machine is said to produce
annually $4,000 worth of goods. The fancy yaric-
ties OF lace goods are constantly increasing and sew
eral hundred varieties of nets and laces have been
produced.
When steam and water power was first intro
duced in 1920 it had the effect OF putting down the
small frames worked IN cottages and the operatives
Hooked to town. Large factories sprang up rapidly,
and the sudden mania resulting from this change -
thus graphically described:
Money began to pour into the town Ike shower OF
gold and the excitement and anticipation or tue dazz-
ing opened before them raised the minds OF the
masters aud operatives to the highest pitcd OF
4" the twist-net fever" ana for nearly twevemonh
nous specuations we're nduged in; mechanics who had
never studied the working OF lace machine were en-
gagged TO construct frames OF the most complicated cnar
acter by spectators ignorant as themseNes
and the largo offered aud received were spens
formed and buildings erected be used for wnei
In the following year, the consequences OF TINS
imitation took place and the bubble burst the universal
despair and CONSERVATION very great thousands
were plunged ntoite deepest poverty many actually
died OF starvation some lett the country ana DINERS "enV
hopelessly insane or died by their own act.
1t was some years beforethe lace trade recovered
from the shock. In 1882 another period OF distress
Il frop hpaa L.
The Reform riots and burning of Nottingham castle
ended this season OF want and misery. In 1888 tho
application of the jacquard principle TO ace-nanu
facture gave ta fresh start. and the progress and
prosperlty-wth one or two lesser Interruption
has continued until the terrible crisis of lS16-7o,
caused partly by overstocking of the Amer
lean market, partly by the depression
in trade arising from caprice in fashion. In th,
| industry England has practically monopoly, as
the United States have not yet attempted lacemak-
ing by machinery. 1t Is an industry that ought 10
be established in America as much as that OF tne
manufacture of fine porcelain. But the same DIM
In Nottingham the fine Government School of
Art affords every facility fol the education OF lace
designers for whom there arc special classes ms
effect of this wise provision has made itself felt IN
the wonderful Improvement in the taste and execu-
ton of lace designs during the last few years. ms
branch of talent commands the very highest re-
enumeration. The secrets of the trade are Jealously
guarded from other manufacturers, and 1t is noe
TO the works.
The lace trade is almost exclusively
confined TO England so lar rs
work Is concerned, there being 2S2 factories IN the
counties of Derby, Nottingham and Leicester buG
good deal of domestic work is carried On under
various forms, principally pillow lace, IN those OK
Bucks. Oxford Beds and Devon, while Ireland fur:
nishes guipure lace from Limerick. The number or
persons employed IN the factories IS gwen as
but tine total number of lace-workers of ali kinds.
nearly all women and children, is 493IO. VISITED
some of the largest establishments while m the city.
smith. the United States Consul, for accoinpa-
uying me through the establishment OF Thomas
Adams & Co. The girls in this establishment arc
q very superior class of operatives, Wei dressed
and seemingly well cared for. They nave
q handsome little chapel with stained glass WIN
dOws connected with the factory and every morning
before beginning work short service Is read oy tho
chaplain of the factory. The lacecworkers are
noticeably free from the stunted, haf-fed appear
The lace girls of Nottin CHAM have still some claim
to beauty. great variety OF public INSTITUTIONS
for their health instruction, comfort and amuse-
ment have been established.
la the evening went to the theatre, procuring q
seat in the shilling part of the house-he pit. In
no English city have seen such an orderly. well.
in the finest "Dewsbury sealskin' Gains;
borough hats covered with ,subdued
shades saT scenc OF From %epe vpted the Talbot
large and handsomely fitted up music ball ire
quented largely by the working classes especially
the girls. 1t was toe. finest establishment OF the
KIND have yet seen in England. good deal OF
drinking was going on, but nothing oheoslve;
Respectable girls in parties OF two and three ana
bands but others without escorts sat down TO
friendly ale or drop of cold GIN and listened
to the really excellent music This is "a picture or
the condition OF the operatives OF an industry 10
which England has no competitors, III whlch SEE
holds the market, in which low wages to
crush out foreign rivals have not become
a necessity. l. 1t surprising thea, that We
read the following in the British prints rom an
American correspondent:
The lacemakers Of nottingham may congratulate
themselves ON the defeat of we'll planned attempt TO
establish rival manufacture OF their specially In hs
country by large o. the import duty on laces
There cotton aceS made here because tue mate
rial costs than the lace Il was sought TO rSm0ve
this impedment through the medium OF Tue tlisn. Inc
attempt failed through che opposition OF Senator MUr-
ril repeatedly declared that there Sers DO cotton
aces worth tDan % cents yard. suppose tnaG
of the senators wives could have told taem tpa5
the most expensive aces are made entirely OF cotton
and imitation aces are now made that are wort dol
lar yard. However the senator's assurance 10 tho
contrary carried the day and change OF ngortance
made III the duty on laces.
This is the pleasant side of making The other
has been sternly depicted by recent English
writer who pictures Nottingham in times Of bad
trade, when instead of working double hours.
many factories stand silent aud empty and moro
have but small number of machines working to fill
the few orders which are eagerly sought for; when
in place of the many groups of work girls. IN their
bright dress at the theatre and the Talbot one sees
ANXIOUS serious faces. and the looS of hopeless,
gloom settled on those who cannot find work. Then
the cry is Heaven help us all; what shall we do
if times don't mend :" But Nottingham to-day IS
gay the spacious ma,ketplace at night is thronged.
the brilliantly illuminated gin palaces glare with
out as the glasses clnk within. Music issues forth
from half hundred conccrt-places chOrussed with
peals of laughter: money is beng earned and spent.
Let us hope the good times VIII con-
tinue.- There are few more interesting places
in England than the fine old town
have attempted TO describe. Its narrow, winding
hills only noun ted by steps, the long zgzag courts
with bntting gabled houses, all bespeak its an-
tquity In the low quarters of the place nlth,
sonaIor aud poverty abound more than m Bradford.
Derby or Leice ster But for all this the beautiful
meadows which surround the old town are already
clothed in their wonted rich green, aud are con-
yerted INTO a seeming lake of violet crocuses" There
indeed NAV the Nottingham lass lind :" "A charm for
the eve and charm for the