The Penn's Grove record., 1883-10-06

~flounces. The bodice is pointed and
sleeveless, and is trimmed with a mag
nifcent embroidery of gold, ruby and
amber beads, which glisten like gems
in the gaslight, this embroidery head
ing a fall of amber lace. The effect of
this dress is beautiful beyond descrip-
ton.
-Dancing-dresses, of which softly
banging merveilleux silk forms a COM
(petent part, are sometimes arranged
with a graceful drapery of the silk
crossing the bodice diagonally from
shoulder TO waist, and then forming a
panier, while at the other side a lighter
material, like tulle or gauze broche, is
draped panier-wise over the surah.
Otter a garland Of field flowers borders
the edge of the tnlle panier. 1t is not
easy to describe this new and pretty
style, which is remarkably effective.
-Brocade embroidery is very effec-
tive, and is made by outlining the
various flowers or geometrical designs
woven into brocaded materials. The
patterns are first outlined in stem-stitch,
or a double piece of wool or silk is
couched along the chief edges of the
design. Sometimes a better effect is
produced by covering the whole of the
brocaded design and leaving only the
foundation material visible. When so
treated, long or satin-stitch is used, as
in satin-stitch embroidery, and when
well executed in judicious colors the
effect is extremely good.
Mems Wear.
In apparel for gentlemen a more
staid and conservative feeling is spring.
ing up, and, though no radical change
will be made, trousers will not be SO
tight, coats not so long or so pointed
in the tails, and patterns for waistcoats
and trousers not SO pronounced. The
regular English fashion of wearing
coat and waiscoat of one kind of goods
and trousers of another will prevail to
a large extent. 1t is a sensible fashion
too, for a coat and waistcoat will out
last two or three pairs of trousers.
Frock coats, generally known as Prince
Alberts, will be extensively worn and
divide the honors with four-button
getaways, sack coats having gone
entirely out of fashion, except for
country, seaside and clearly informal
occasions.
As to the materials to be worn, im-
portations have not yet reached us. Judg-
ing by the samples, however, dark
small checks and o~verchecks, varying
shades of cork-screws, and fine, dark
tweeds, with small, scarcely discern
ible spots Of white or red, will be mostly
sought after. Looking farther ahead
to the winter, friezes will be the most
fashionable material for oveIcoats,
which will be cut as frock coats or dou-
b~le-breasted sacks.
1t is a fact worthy Of notice that the
only article of mems dress in the fash
ioning of which the wearer's taste plays
no part is the hat. The styles of hats
are due altogether to the taste and
fancy of the manufacturer, so that
.twenty-four hours before the new
style displayed in the hatter's window
no me but the ''finisher'' knows what
shape it will assume. According to
Mr.. Dunlap, therefore, it is impossible
now to give an idea of what expanse
of curling brim or curve of the bell
crow will adorne the heads of our
gilded youth when they drive their
%dog-carts in the Park in a few weeks.
Shoes will follow the fashion of the
cloth clothes and be less pointed than
heretofore. They will be made as
plain and simple as possible, with pat
ent-leather vamps and kid or black
silk uppers, laced in front. Collars
will still be high ''all-rounders,"
and the neckties will be quiet silk
checks tied in a sailors knot,
with no pin of any sort or descrip-
ton.