Morning journal and courier., 1883-03-17

Costumes and Materials for the Spring
 pIonths-SimpIe Walking Dresses and
 Elegant Evening TOiIets-NoveIties i'm
 Embroidery and MateriaI-Some Fash
 tonable Garments.
 From the New York Times.l
 Walking dresses are as simple as evening toilets are elegant. Suits for ''demi saison" wear combine plain cloth with plain velvet The color most favored at present is admiral blue, the use of which has been abandoned for some time past in favor of seal and fine green. A suit of this kind is of blue velvet and cloth. The border of the cloth dress is cut in squares and lined with navy blue satin It falls over a velvet hounce arranged in large full plaits. The squares are only cut on the front and sides of the cloth skirt The plain back falls in natural plaits against the velvet hounce. The pointed waist has square ends which turn back and form 8 half redingote They are only stitched around and joined by piece of blue satin ribbon. The square pockets have two pieces of rib. bon coming from the corners. From this point they are taken in full loops with ends and fastened to the point on the waist The velvet vest forms fringed points over the waist. It has small blue jet buttons on either side. These buttons in 'tpostillon de Longumeeu'' or ''muletier castillan" style will enliven the spring waists. The long tight fitting sleeves have small round velvet cuffs.
 All kinds of embroidery on various tissues are always among the novelties. 'Limou sines'' have woolen embroidery in several shades, consisting of designs in punches of large macaroons and large scallops for bor- derings Cachemires have broad galloon bands of Prussian or Egyptian work in the richest and most peculiar coloring. Silk gauge and "mousselines de laine" have de- signs in many colors, embroidered in the most artistic manner. These materials are e droccoc vvith ribbons combined in all the colors of the de- signs A new material for walking suits is of light cloth embroidered with handsome applique of palm-leaves in shaded plush. A narrow soutache "cachemire" trimming IS around the borders of the leaves. This rage for embroidery also extends to children's clothes. A kind of work most suitable for this purpose is made as follows: "Over the cachemire to be embroidered is canvas and when the work, whether of wool, cotton or silk, is completed, the threads of the canvas are drawn. This makes 8 beautiful trim ming The coIors must be bright and con- trasting, such as red on blue or the reverse, brown or moss color on beige. For white two or three colors may be employed. A garland of this work around the skirt, and 8 small design on the collar and cuffs, is all the trimming necessary for this purpose. De- signs of embroidery are in course of making, such as animals heads, flowers and fruit, ar
 
 against plain fabrics. This arrangement is very economical, as waist, jacket or redin- gote may thus be of plain goods. and the embroidery sewed on according to fancy. This trimming may also serve for gloves, shoes. sunshades, stockings and bonnets, as it is odd and pretty. All kinds of original designs will be made for this purpose in ad- i1ition to flowers and birds
 Plain cloth costumes have bands of velvet in light shades, falling among the plaits. A pervinca or "hussard" blue cloth or cache mire suit is trimmed with seven bands of navy blue velvet, which terminate in points and fall over the plaited founces. The latter are against an alpaca underskirt. The velvet points fall below the woolen plaits, and are lined with some rather stiff fabric. French women wear a variety of woolen suits for ordinary visiting purposes, and for shopping they particularly favor the plain English styles Small basques, with borders cut in squares, are still used, but not as much as they have been. A variety of jackets and half long casaques will be made. The latter button diagonally over the breast, and are trimmed with colored lace. Among the ec- centric styles are t'Gobelin's' dresses of handsome, soft woolen goods, with designs in lattice work. These dresses are trimmed with reddish lace, and are in all colors, but cream, moss, wine, old green, and pink pre- dominate.
 Among the novelties in toilets suitable for wear at wedding ceremonies are dresses of royal satin. brocaded with punches of flowers in old shades. Young girls may employ for this purpose printed Pompadour satins over surah or 'fgaze crepee" skirts. One of these toilets has rose-colored Pompadour satin skirt covered with moss rose buds and dai Eies. It is raised on the sides by means of 6 cording, with three long tassels A light panier falls from under the long point of the waist It is arranged in farthingale style, ns4d fnrkAnAd n kha TlnJnt in Eha hack Of GR0 waist under large rosette. The very mar row train is raised on the belt under the TO- sette in waved 1oops formed by the material being firmly sewed underneath to the stlH muslin undertrain. The sides of the train are often bordered with lace or ruching. The train of this dress is. however, taken on the sides under the gauge puffing of the skirt. This style of trimming IS more youth fuI than lace or ruching. The gauge waist is lined with satin The neck is high in the back and opens in an oval in front.
 Evening suits continue to be of white or pink yelling and of ''bengaline, which is more elegant than vailing, but does not de- tract from the formers popularity. Nothing is so pretty for small evening entertainments as white yelling toilets They may be sim pie, with only draped scarf of the same goods, or quite elegant with a panier of en- broidered "breton" tulle, raised under large ribbon rosettes with many ends. These settes, which are all the rage at present, very often replace flowers. They are on all parts on the breast, sleeves, paniers, and on all the