Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-06-02
From Our Own Correspondent

GRADUATEs-JswELRY FOR THE STREET
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, June l.
Fashions are very decided and very striking
this season. They astonish unsophisticated eyes
and show that women are less timid than for
nerly possessed of more nerve. and dare to
DO what they would not have dreamed OF few
years ago.
81 have the courage to wear what suits me"
said q very beautiful woman the other day.
THAT IL all the difference. do not copy other
women. / go TO pictures and art sources for
what are called my inspirations. and whenever
see anything that suits me make note of it.
and sooner or later put it into my dress. In
that way make fashion instead of following
IT,"
All women have not this courage nor this op-
Portunfty; out certainly the standard of indiyid-
aaiity is much higher and the diversity much
greater of late years than formerly. This diver
s'fy Is also happily tending towards the estab-
bshmcnt Of more fixed laws toward an under
standing of what is best suited for diireren.
ages. and 1t may in time-will eypn-sn"yest
without offense, what is best adapted to differ
ent conditions.
Zone has to die to do much before one dies. 9"
remarked a middle-aged lady of position and
fortune In dry goods store recently where she
was buying prints and ginghams. 81 have no
use for these myself" she continued, "fOr I
Aave to entertain so much in summer that
must De dressed always for company; but
really enjoy buying them for my daughters, and
remember 'hair-striped' blue cotton and a
corded pink gingbam that l wore when was
Q girl with more pleasure than silks or satins."
mot excepting your wedding dress?" was the
laughing query.
Not excepting my wedding dress" she re-
piled; for the train was so long that after my
wedding day never wore it with any comfort;
and whether it was because was not to silk
and satins born, [confdentialy do not know.
but certainly like fine cOttOns better-at least
In summer"
But it is a silken season; season of magnifi-
cent fabrics, of much lace. of bewildering
masses, and of variety of color. Yet out of the
whole range the finest effects are produced by
The use OF single colOrs illuminated by dashes of
dull red or pale yellow. or by the combination
OF black with white or white with yellow.
A toilet prepared for the coaching parade Is
OF electric blue satin, with bonnet to match,
trimmed with a group of cOrn-colOred feathers
parasOl lined with corn color. and long Swede
gloves. An enormous bouquet of daffOdls will
be fastened upon the front of the dress.
Another costume is a mixture of strawberry
ana cream-straw berry surah trimmed with
cream lace, large red silk parasOl lined with
cream, and chip hat faced with strawberry and
trimined with strawberry red plumes.
Black was a uniform for long that it is
rather curious to see it combined with the art
reds or a dull shade of yellow, and to see how
vivid an effect is produced by a lnng a group
Of feathers, or even branch of roses. upon a
black Costume. The value of yellow in bringing
out ether cOOrs is beginning to be we'll under
stood and nothing prettier can be imagined for
0 spring costume than an electric blue surah
with giimpses of gold in the lining and bunch
oil bGttercups in the belt.
Solid cOlorS, it NAV be remarked are nre-
ferTed In the richest materials for short dresses
OF costumes. Figures are disappearing from
secondary toilets and are only admissible in
eottons or the costly brOcades used in combina-
ton with satin or lace.
These grand fabrics are growing more elegant
every day. but there is one good side to this
tact and that is. that the cOstlier more artistic
more individualized they become the longer
they are kept, the more service they are made
20 perform. dress, the train of which costs
nom $50 to $50 per yard. and which cannot be
duplicated. will not be thrown aside. 1t Is the
nimsy stutfs which are forever multiplied. vet
never adequate to any office
Red Is used mostly for parasOls and for chill
dren. In the dull art shades it is the most
fashionable lining. both tor black and cream
The brighter tints are used solid with bamboo
SUCKS without trimming, except gilt ring to
R0id the folds IN position. Embroidered birds
and butterflies. artificial flowers and the heavy
lined bows with ends, which looked like clumsy
neckties, have all disappeared from the para
soils OF the present season.
Indeed there is praiseworthy tendency
among Really fashionable and refined people to
get rid of unnecessary rubbish and simplify per-
soma belongings as much as possible. putting
into quality and fineness Of Workmanship the
money that was formerly put to size anu guam
tity- Manufacturers do not always realize this
fact, but it is a fact notwithstanding. and one
OF the evidences is the quickneSS with which
what Is unnecessary is dropped out of our en-
VrOnmeDt. There are other reasons. too which
enter into and modify the dress question. One
iZin of in attic
Another the gradual aggregation of social and
ether duties.
Women must be relieved of the per-
petual care Of tine thousand gewgaws which
nave been considered necessary to a feminine
toilet Life is too short for them. Other OBJ
Jects OF more importance are beginning to de-
mand our time and attention. This is not true
alone OF working or professional women; 1t is
true OF the woman of society. She. too is
crowded with cares, for nowadays if people
are not obliged to work for themselves they
are made to work for others.
RATIONAL DRESS.
The Rational Dress Association In London,
with which the Duchess of Westminster and
Miss Gladstone are associated. is to have an
exhibition this month. at which models are to
be exhibited. which a committee has decided
must comply with the following conditions:
First-FreeiOmO of movement.
SecOnd-Absence of pressure over any part
Of the body.
ThirG-Not more weight than Is necessary for
warmth anu both evenly distributed.
Fomth-Grace and beauty combined with
comfort and convenience
Fiith-Not departing too cOnspicuously from
the fashion of the time.
Nearly all these conditions seemed to have
been net in dress worn recently by lady who
had invented the costume to suit her own pur-
poses. and wears no other. The lady is unmar-
fled, IS not rich. has a very small income to
which She adds a little by writing occasionally
for the magazines: but she is a student more
than writer. and would rather live on little
and follow her own pursuits than spend much
and be obliged to work to order and express
other peoples ideas and opinions.
Her effort. therefore, has been to reduce
her mode of living and her expenditure for
dress to the lowest possible terms consistent
with her habit of refinement and the cOmpan-
ionship of educated people. 1t is not my pres
snt purpose to describe her life. but her dress
and what she considers are the results to herself
Of It's adoption.
Ii consists Of two parts. an underdress and an
eyerdress. The first is SIMPLY short combina-
tion garment. which forms skirt and cover for
She corded waist. which serves in place of corset.