New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-01-14
THE FASHIONS.
DINNER AND RECEPTION DRESSES AND
UPHOLSTERY.

RICH AND UNIQUE COMBINATIONS OF COLoh-fhAh'
AND BEAD EMBROIDERY YOUNG LADIES
DREssEs-CURTAfNs, CARPETS AND PoRrIEREs'
The Persians say, "Ten measures of talk
sent TO the earth. and women took nine OF them
but this delicious bit Of falls pointless 70 tne
ground in the Of modistes, where the whole ten
measures are appropriated and held with hooks OF
steel" In contrasting magnifcence OF winter toll
lets with daily bread attire, the unfortunate MT.
Guppy recalled, whose soul recoled from food All
quiet and neutral tns have disappeared, or used ~
ALL are simply unavoidable accessories III 'ne
way of shading toning down too violent contrasI
collection of bonnets mantes, opera wraps costumes
and the pumAs and embroideries upon them Is
glimpse of Art grinding up rubies, topazes, sapphre'
and opals, and Jumps Of pure gold' 10 form
her chromatic scale, putting to nign. III
economical ideas OF trying to commune
the new with the old. Never has IaSnion
been more caprcous and costly thy habit as tiny
can buy" lie the legend of today great dea OF red
and coffee white is used The reds are not only OF the
glowing copper tints but shades OF Indi1n red the
deepest wine coors and lighter garnet ana srawpery
red. French audacity permits a strange admA.ure VI
colors. The Hadramont is fine material OF sh anu
wool covered with Persian designs IN winch there
great deal Of red, olive and black interspersed WIN
golden threads The designs Of the superb brocades are
drawn by prominent French artists, who also make
notnt Of especay studying tho combination OF coors
for the benefit OF celebrated modistes The GLOWING
M" is as carefully managed as the artists own can
vases.
There are no new ideas fashion after the holidays
excepting in the way ball, evening, reception and
dinner dresses Daphanous ball toilets are as fairy
ike a. the land where sewing machines and earthly
fingers are unknown. OF these are tho fabrics
Of tlnsel tulle, silyerstriped gauzes tuile'
French Grape and lace. Some tabliers are
formed of finest lace embroidered and beaded one OF
these feathery acacia branches Is done In the
G,.ow aroaA with
branches Of large Oriental flowers of dark red pearls OF
different sizes and small pearls OF delicate ross color
the foliage Of these worked with small pearl buges
and pearls, and here and there tendrl OF
the fine nsel The exquisite effect OF this trimming
gracefully arranged over creamy white satin Is inde-
scrbable style Of similar lace drapery is seal
Hoped on the edge with the finest Of pearl buges from
this rise clusters flowers ferns and droopiag branches
OF tiny cut crystal beads pink segments Of buges and
small white pearls. Some wide founcngs and eorsage
trimmings OF lace extremely elaborate IN Deadngs
Of rose vines and smaller flowers, wrought entirely OF
white gitterng little bugles and large pearls The tne
bueles lend themselves readily to the formation OF
foliage and tendrils and the venng aad shaping OF
large leaves while the pearls cluster together in the
hearts Of the flowers the buds and not infrequently
follow the veins OF the leaves.
Some beautiful made another set OF these
fine aces large leaves wrought OF long white bugie
the forgeme nots OF small, opahued glass cut beads
frnges and the graceful Starry, white daisies
are wrought on lace with white buges and white cut
glass beads; the style also carried out with the admix
ture OF opalescent crystal beads Heavier trimming
in applique embroidered upon white cloth In vines OF
closely worked white beads and buRes In designs OF OAK
leaves pansies and foliage starry primroses
OF white buges veued and with centres OF cut crystal
bead. These are laid on panels rosecolored satin
bue and the effect is that the work wrought upon the
material
DINNER AND RECEPTION TOILET.
These beaded nets and lac,s OF delicate colorcd
pearls gold. silver and cOpperred tinsel thread are
arranged for the accessories OF and
satin costumes for dinner receptions. In some
models these OF similar described designs done
on the material like laco work, with intrcacies OF
Oriental fancy wrought like jewels. stitch by stitch, on
salmon satin on flesh color, amber or delicate rose
color Again this beautiful fancy extends 10 velvet
toilet made after the antique Of rose satin has low
basque with deeply pointed front covered with beaded
lace the taber skirt covered with lace beaded
nounces sparkling like richest jewels the panels
left plain are trimmed at the bottom with pink satin
ruchngs, faced with white satin. basque accompa-
MES this dress made square I'm front with vest aud
souarecut position back. Tn front Of the square
corsage 10 massed with punings OF the beaded lace
scanty enough 10 display the elaborate work tho edge
OF the elbow similarly arranged with the ad-
dition OF q narrow 1Ounoe Of the beaded lace.
Some OF the br ocades show marvellous ntrcacies OF
design when intended mostly for panels other acc
sories One Of these upon apricot satin ground shows
rose branches and tendrs Jasmine aud pomegranates
in the purest Persian taste ana that may be still moro
of the Oriental type the outlines yeining and fine ten
drills are made With tiny pearl beads aud hnest gold
thread other designs for these superb broc~des show
custers OF grapes roses lilies and fanfu yentional
Jams fan-like that look like pcacocks' tails
graceful wldenesses OF arabesque covering the whole
surface with thckes res work Of arabesque and eafy
stem Some OF these fabrics are seicoored Others
are the natural color OF tho flowers deicately shaded
and outlined with pearl, opalescent crystal and gold
beads Again. the quaint japanese embroidery Is seen
on other panels gold and silver threads and In nosy
silks IN designs Of feathery bamboo roses birds and
beasts This style Is seen In yeet Tor lnsIance Two
cessoes OF brOcade as above described or the japanese
II must be added that toilets OF this rich description
full court IT Iins which are always lined Win vol
vet eatin or Surah satin.
COMBINATIONS OF COLOR.
II 10 no unusual thing 10 see combination OF palo
blue and olive green presenting harmonious and re-
freshing whole effect given by red, although
crushed stra wbcrry red Ia used with the gbtest blue
and also with dull grcens There charming velvets
sprngng the unity Of dandeon yellow and paler
primrose. OF satin, the other brocade magnificent
dress of velvet train has the front or deli
cate nesk cOlored satin literally lncrnsfed Win en-
brodery Of pearls and gltterng white bugles almost as
fine a. Jewellers work. full OF the cunning harmony or
flowing lines trefoi heart.shape and tangled stems
n h an established fact that the basque and train must
be made the plain material and tue superbbrocades
left for the accessores some models are However
seen OF extraordinary styles when the rule 10 re.
yersed Dresses the latter description are exception
ally costly and elaborate.
Rose color and pale primrose aud the more radiant
bnttercup sapphire and pale blue end white the IA
yorite coors young ladies' ball dresses relieved by
the delicate Grape and wrought aoes and clouds
and cascades OF tnlle charming evening toilet for
Young lady ia called the Hilloria II Is composed OF
cream ored silk muslin, embroidered with carnations
in delicate tints combined with yorytinted sqrah aud
deliberately trimmed with oriental lace. The Surah is
used for the plated vest aud taber front and Tor the
plating full drapery In the back the Icmain
der is made OF tie silk muslin. high collar OF terra
Gotta velvet bows and long ends OF ribbon to
spond 10 decorate the front OF the plated vest elbow
sleeves.
THE FASHIONABLE POLoNAIsE.
One Of the most useful of the convenient poonases
now fashonably is the Marlborough, which readily
undergoes transformation from the original shape into