davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

lNeW YORK COr. inter ocean,
As for fashions in costumes, l am trust
worthily informed that a crisis is at hand.
There is to be a decisive conquest.
II have just returned from Paris he said
(and he is one of the most expert and ex-
tensive among New York m~anipulators of
fashions for womenl, land ! found over there
a settled opinion that the present styles in
fabrics will continue substantially UNI
changed for a year or two longer. The silk
manufacturer of France have decided to go
right on making up goods without new
designs. They will continue the idea
of a leopard sort Of spotted
ness, varying from one conglom-
Grafton to another, and showing very little
originality. Whatever may be the expe-
rience on the other side of the world, the new
side won't stand anything so old. We've got
to have a change. Just now. too, American
manufacturer are making great strides, and
have become quite able to go ahead alone.
So the circumstance all favor n declaration
of American independence in fashions. The
rebellion will at first be against foreign de-
signs in fabrics. Once free in that respect,
and originality in shapes will soon follow. 1t
is high time for this. American women now
surpass the French in tastel illness of dress,
and therefore are qualifol to load the
world"
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

Job printing lone in INST class style
at the LEADER job rooms.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19
The Real GentIewoman's Dress.

[Clara Belle in Cincinnati Enquirer.l
The dress OF the real -gentlewoman, the
truly refined and sensible of her sex. is never
in the height of fashion. The first study of
such n woman is to seek the becoming: her
second thought, the good, and her last, what
is merely fashionable. She cleverly adapts
the fashion to herself. She will not stoop to
make herself a mere figure for the modesto to
hang her wnres on. She has a law in her
own mind, higher than the law of fashion.
She wears many nice things, but probably
the most becoming of them have been fash
Toned by her own taste, frequently finished,
perhaps by her own deft fingers, or at least
she has carefully superintendent their manu-
facture. Many al ~envious neighbor may have
glanced at her tasteful toilets, cynically OBJ
serving, Her poor husband working so
hard and she spending his earnings in French
fripperies" All this while her costume is
rarely rich, never very costly, often not
even new, for the genuine gentlewoman
remembers the bread inaern and home
maker, the husband who tolls.
But whatever she wears is prettily made,
and never decked with gaudy tinscl, trump
cry lace and sham jewels. All is fresh and
simple, good Of their kind, collars, cuffs,
frills and gloves alike f~aultlcss. After all,
there is no great art in her fashions or in her
materials. Her secret consists in her know
ing the three great unities OF dress-her own
station, her own age and her own good points,
Above all. she takes care that her plainest
and cheapest dress hal be well cut. She
need not he beautiful nor even accomplished.
but we will answer for her being even tenn
pered, sensible, and that very rare jewel in the
present fast going days, a perfect lady" a
'gentlewoman" in its fullest and best sense.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19
Modern Innovations In Costume
Inter Ocean.1


As yet there appear no evidences of
ST. liking changes in silk and wool dresses.
Waist-coats will figure largely, representing
n great variety of styles, among which are
embraced those coming below the waist in
Continental fashion and showing pockets on
either side; plastrou vests and pointed vests.
These are most stylish when made of velvet
or other contrasting material with the dress.
For slender figures n favorite style consists of
a corsage with plated or gathered vest,
which takes away the appearance of thin
chest or fiat waist.
The styles as regards materials, fashion OF
garments, and garniture are so eclectic that
no woman, however capricious, can fail to
find just what she wants. 1t can truly, be said
that the miiiinsr's blocks and dressmaker's
dummies exhibit fashions existing all the way
from the present back to three or four gen
e~rations ago.
Although wide license is given for n dis
play of individual taste in matters OF dress,
there exist certain features that prevail over
all others. For instance, velvets, b~rocades,
and corded silks lead in expensive dress
fabrics, and the greater number OF dresses
show a combination of wool and velvet or
wool and silk. Velvet will during the autumn
and winter undoubtedly form a part of every
toilet.
Novelties In the new wool goods not already
noticed are rough cloths with shabby surface,
both in plain color and in stripes. Then there
are fancy camel's hair serges, with threads of
chenille for drapery, and bour-
cites with stripes of rough surface alternat-
ing with Ottoman stripes. There are armures
in stripes and cheviots in block designs, to
say nothing of the full lines of Lincolnshire
cheviots, Belgravia and othor suitings, NIL
tons, broad diagonals and Ottoman cloths.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

Are you disturbed at night and
broken of your rest by a sick child suf-
fering and crying with pain of cutting
teeth? If 80, send at once and get a
bottle of Mrs. Winslow's soothing syrup
for children %teething. Its value is in
cslculable. 1t will relieve the poor
little sufferer Immediately. Depend
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake
about it. 1t cures dysentery and diar-
rhea, regulates the stomach and bow
els, cures wind collie, softens the gums,
reduces Inflammation, and gives tone
and energy to the whole system. Mrs.
Winslow's soothing syrup for children
teething is pleasant to the taste, and is
the prescription Of one Of the oldest
and best female physicians apd nurses
in the United States, and Is for sale by
all druggists throughout the world.
Price % cents a bottle.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

them interesting and impersonal, and carry
a supply of cheerfulness and sunshine to bt
judiciously dispensed 1t is q very pleasing
habit to have small gift, such as a poem,
some recent publication in art, literature or
music; or even a single rose will do wonders
in cheering up the sad-hearted Inquiry
may be made OF the various members of the
household, bat beware of that lance-like in
t~errogative, "How does she bear her lossF'
In leave-taking, be very sure to heed
whether or not your hostess invites you &c
call again, for to repeat the visit would be
rudeness itself. Ladies' in mourning do not
repeat visits or courtesies of any description
Returns are made, when the family is aboui
to appear in public again, by sending cardi
of mourning through the mails. These cards
have black borders, with the name Of the
bereaved lady or gentleman, and some ex-
preston thanks for kind inquiries and ac-
ceptable sympathy"
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

ia Musician" in Chicago Tmesl
Women are daily acquiring business quail
~fications long considered beyond their reach,
and | do not doubt that their scope will o
include playing in bands A day or two ago
l read an account of some experiments with
brass instruments in Germany. Some doctor
tnere, the name OF whom l forget. said blow
ing horns would cure consumption IL prac.
Continued on Third Po0c.)
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19
WOMAN AMI HOME.
Pot-Pourri of Fashion Notes,
Kitchen Helps and Health
Hints
Doing OF the Fair Sex---yIsiting the
Sick---COnccrning Costumes---A
Disguised Millinery Man.

The Lnngtry, as she is everywhere called,
has left n bitter feeling behind her in the
minds and hearts OF the men whose business
II is TO make styles and sell them. A sort of
unpleasant odor fingers about her name in
New York, and she would not feel battered
TO hear all thoy say about her.
And it has nothing to do with her penchant
for Freddy, strange to say. 1t is all on &C
count Of that jersey and that turban which
she wore over here and thereby started an in
expensive craze.
"She came here in her internally scanty
unembellished clothes, !" said one man in a
rage, and we lost thousands Of dollars, as
every woman straightway put on a jersey and
a plain hat. Why couldn't she do something
for us whiles she was about it, and set fash
ions that would bring money into the coun-
try instead of taking it outF'
"Do you honestly mean to say that our in
dependent American woman followed Lang
try to the extent OF affecting the revenues OF
the United Statesf'
That's exactly what / do say. 1t got to
be the fashion when she first came to wear
plain hats and plain dresses. She was made
to give her opinions, which were as silly as
any spoiled woman's, and She thought the
great fault OF our women was that they
dressed too conspicuously in the streets, were
too fond of bows and strenmers of ribbon.
Things took a drop after that, and we felt it.
Why couldn't she be an enterprising
woman, with an eye TO business, like Bern
hardti Now that lively little meteor
brought out long gowns, rare laces
in catarncts and jabots, and a long.
wrinkled kid glove, peculiar To herself, aud
this glove Immediately became all the rage,
and in consequences all the manufactures in
the world were set 10 work making mousque-
taire gloves, and she keeps on having hers
longer, and naturally other women do the
same. That's business, you know. 1t makes
money plenty and stirs things up. Why, il
actresses, like Sara Jewett, Rose Coghlan,
Rose Eytinge. Ada Rehau, Clara Morris,
Mary Anderson, Margaret Mather and a
few others who appear on the stage nightly
during the run of society plays in
magnificent costumes, thereby setting
fashions in ball dresses, carriage ~toilettes and
morning gowns. the tradespeople and dress
makers would have to 20 out of the business,
ruined 10y this invasion Of the ''early Eng
lish." Confound the early English l say.
That craze for tailor-mnde suits hurt the
dressmakers more than you can Imagine,
as women would pay men three times the
price any woman could command, and were
actually measured and fitted by tailors.
These suits are now going out. Anna Dickin-
is a tasty little woman, and got up gorgeous
clothes for her play of Anne Boleyn' and
Camille" hut they never made the noise
somehow that other women's stage toggeries
ha va nnde
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19
DR.. 6
81 Co.'S
MEDICAL and SURGICAL INSTITUTE,

~ Lstrimer street, Denver.
Chronic diseases OF men and women sue
cessully treaded. SURGICAL operations OF All
and Hernia, cured without knife or caustic.
Diseases ofEye and Ear a speciality, by one
member OF this firm
Young Men
who may be suffering from the effects OF
youthful folIies or indiscretions. Will do we'll
To availthemselves of this the greatest boon
ever LAID at the altar OF Suffering humanity.
DIR. WAGNER Will guarantee To forfeit ave
hundred dollars for every case OF seminal
character which he undertakes TO and falls
to cure.
Middle-Aged Men.
There are mauy men OF the age of 80 to 90
tion OF the bladder, often accompanied by a
slight smRrting or burning sensation and n
weakening OF the system In a manner the
patient cannot account for. On examining
the urinary deposits n ropy sediment will
often be found, and so netimes small parti.
cies OF albumen viii appear, or the color viii
be ofakin or milklsh hue, again changing to
q dark and torpid appearance. There are
many men who die OF this difficulty, ignor-
ant ofthe cause, which Is the second stage OF
seminal weakness. DR. wagner Will guar
nntee a perfect cure In all such cases and a
healthy restoration OF the genlto-urinary
organs. Consultation free. Thorough exam
ination and advice, $500. .
All communication should be addressed
to Dr. Henry Wagner. postofice box 1883,
The Young Mans Pocket Companion. by
DR.. IL. Wagner. is worth its weight In gold 10
young men. Price. $40; sent by mail to
Dr. Wagner has had entire charge of
the medical and surgical institute for
the past year heTetofore known as DR..
Spinney & Co.. 3I3 Larimer street, Denver
Colorado. now known as
DR.. WAGNER g. co.
Cut TINS out and take along.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

The fall bonnet is n hat this time. The first
thing out in the metropolis is the little round,
squatty turbau, worn several years ago. with
the identical band OF swallow wings, cocks
feathers or grebe breasts which ondeared it
to us then. II was always a mystery how so
much fowl could roost on 80 little hat, and
the enigma remains unsolved. In fact the
hat grows smaller and the fowl bigger.
Every woman in the country is away some
where the first Of September, and feels IA fran
tic desire to own IA travelling head piece. The
first fail hats are always designed TO hll
this want, and scores OF women about
to travel are buying turbans and
tight fitting, long-tailed jerseys to wear over
a staring plaid skirt, in which to astonish
the poor, unsophisticated beings who did not
go abroad" or even get n sniff Of salt wa
ter, or White mountain air. There is, as
usual, at this season. "a great rush for russell
brown; as nature hurriedly puts all her
available assets into this rich but rnther SON
bre hue when the seaside clearinghouse
nail up their shutters and take down their Sc
ductive board, ''To Let" Brown turbans OF
straw, plush or velvet, with feather trim.
mings, are to be the first notes in the fall and
winter gamut OF hat fashions, and the choice
Of color is one pleasing to the majority OF
ladies, as brown is considered very lady-likc.
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

EMERSON & WEST R RaaS.sdi 5 l. saHn1n 5aas G9L9 Sa,ae:s
Business paperd discounted. Interest paid on time deposits Loan invest
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19

Visits OF coincidence are made within ten
days of the bereavement. IL the parties arp
Intimate, or a month after by acquaintance.
Cards should never be sent in either case, un.
less occasioned by Illness. The caller should
not 10 the first 10 allude to the family loss:
the warm clasp OF a friendly hand is often
more eloquent than words, and the most re
ticent of us would be glad to speak II we were
only sure of being understood. Some people
find comfort in giving their sorrows voice,
while To Others 1t is like turning q sabre In u
half. healed wound.
III the isdy's grief is morbid, she may refuse
70 receive; in which case she is pardonable. and
the caller should, a few days later, post a card
and repeat the visit a week or ten days after
ward 1t is customary TO make these visits in a
quiet costume. Hsvea stock of conversations
subjects on hand. and endeavor to mako
The Cheyenne daily leader. [volume] (Cheyenne, Wyo.) 1870-1884, 1883-10-19
INyIeoRAIoR SAMPLES FREE.

To prove the wonderful power OF the Great
German Invigorator, IL 50 bottle OF either
hummer will be sent free OF charge. Persons
ordering n free bottle will only have to pay
expressage on delivery.
Most powerful electric belts free to patients
Consultation. examination and advice fee
and private Call or write.
On. LIEBEG & Co., 400 Geary street.
Private entrance. 400 Mason street, San
Francisco. Gala.
, 1883-09-20
Fire at Olympia.
OTHER BUILDINGS DESTROYED.
OoolIIo d IoIl, s~,t

THE LAND OFFICE AND RECORDS BURNED
OTHER BUILDINGS DESTROYED.
Seattle P-I, 18th inst.l
AT two o'clock yesterday morning
flames were discovered issuing from the
rear of Gen. McMicken's new building.
on Main street, occupied by the United
States Land Office, Surveyor Generals
office and by several law firms, including
J. G. Israel & Co. The alarm was given,
but as the town was poorly supplied with
fire apparatus, but little was done in the
way Of checking the fury of the fire.
Fortunately the tide was in SO that the
old hand engine could be taken to the
beach, where she performed very good
service in saving Gen. T. l. McK-nny's
residence from destruction. The build
ing in which the Register of the Land
Office and Surveyors Generals offices
were located was total loss, and many
valuable records thereby destroyed. The
fire soon communicated to the Unitarian
church, which was burned to the ground,
and then to General McMicken's stables
which were also destroyed. It is impos-
sible to estimate the loss. The buildings
were all large, new structures. The
most serious loss, of course, was the
burning of the records, many of which it
is feared, cannot be replaced.
, 1883-09-20
BY Telegraph.
Restriction act Decision,

SPRINGFIELD, Mass, Sept 10. THE
Republican says: The Chinese act has
now had the benefit of rulings from the
extremes Of the country California,
Massachusetts and Oregon and 1t Is
rather remarkable that all points thus
operation Of the exclusion law" The
Republican then presents a resume of
the points already decided. adding:
Thus it viii be seen that the decisions
from both sides are OF equal Hberality
toward the excluded nationality, but
that of Judges Lowell and Nelson far
tranScends all others III its practicaloyer-
throw of the law. Although Justice
Field Is supposed to be hostile to this
legislation, We doubt if he would justify
their decision. The question likely to
be raised between the United States and
Great Britain, of Chinese dependencies,
viii not probably present insupperable
difficulties. Migration is free privilege
between Christian powers, and rests OF a
&eaeral permission of nations rather
than on any treaty or guarantees. 1t
has never, We believe, been the subject
of negotiation between these countries,
and Is not mentioned in the law of great
treaties which followed the war of.in-
and of 1912. An attempt on
our part rigidly to exclude subjects OF
the home government OF Great Britain
would undoubtedly give offense to that
power, and be an object of remonstrance;
but the Government of Great Britain
would. we believe. instantly recognize
the fact that no obligation exists on our
part with her distant colonial depen-
denotes, who's. inhabitants are of differ
ent race, religion and civilization. The
field is therefore open for legislation of
this character, without affront to Great
Britain.
, 1883-09-20
Official CroD ReDOPt.

WASHINGTON, Sept. 1.-THE Septem-
ber returns to the Department of Agri-
culture indicate lower condition of
corn than in August in every section of
the country and nearly every State. The
only gains are in Missouri, Kansas and
Nebraska, where there is slight i'm
provement. Minnesota stands the same
as in August. Arkansas makes gain
OF one point, and Georgia and Alabama
remain as in August, but all the other
cotton States show heavy decline. The
figures are also much reduced for each of
the Middle States. In corn surplus the
States show changes as follows: Ohio,a
reduction from 80 to 81; Michigan, re-
duction from 6S to 60; Indiana, reduc-
ton from S5 to 65; Illinois, reduction
from sc to 81; Iowa, reduction from So
to 80; increase in Missouri, SO to 81; in
crease in Kansas, SO to 101; increase in
Nebraska, 81 to 81; decline in New York,
80 to 70; decline in Pennsylvania, 80 to
SO. The general average condition on
the 1st of September, 1888, shows de-
crease of points during the last month.
The cause of this reduction, so nearly
universal, is drought, which is reported
from every state on the Atlantic coast,
the Gulf coast, and the Ohio valley, and
beyond the Mississippi to the crest of the
divide between that river and the lakes.
The distribution of rain has been un-
equal, in a few places in excess. but a
deficiency is generally reported. The
crop is nearly everywhere late, requir-
ing one or two weeks longer than usual
to mature. Where Kansas and Missouri
seed was planted in northern territory
the crop is still later, causing much ap-
prehension. While planting was late
and the early season too wet, with
drought following, the average tempera-
ture has been low, making a full yield
impossible. Telegraphic commun ications
with State agents up to 8 o'clock show
recent frost and damage to corn north
of the 40th parallel. The Ohio agent
places the injury in that State at 20 per
cent; the Indiana agent estimates the
loss at 10 to 20 per cent. in the northern
section and 5 per cent. in the middle
belt. The loss is heavy in Wisconsin
and Minnesota. There is loss and some
injury in New York and Pennsylvania
While the damage cannot be determin-
ed, it is certain that frosts have already
reduced the general average below So
1t is thought the much heavier corn west
is beyond serious injury. The condition
of wheat where harvested, as reported in
these returns, averages SO, which indi.
Gates product of IT per cent. less than
the yie!d of last year, or loss 81 e6,000,,
, 1883-09-20
Clipper FreishtS.

SAN FRANCISCO, Sept 1.-THE arrival
of clipper freishts from the east during
the past week include a number of ship
ments to Oregon and Washington Ter
ritory. The Arabic, which arrived last
week, brought quantity of whisky for
the north, and also quantity of iron
pipe. Overland freights continue brisk.
Portland steamers have recently taken
large shipments of fruit, and. though
no dearth exists in the market, the in
creased demand has slightly affected
the market, and prices of the various
qualities are rather high for this time of
the season. Seattle is also heavy i'm
porter, Victoria ranking third in the
list. The Columbia, which sailed this
morning, had both decks forward well
blocked with plums, peaches and water
melons, and the same is true of recent
steamers ON the Sound route.
, 1883-09-20
d iganfic Timber Land steal.

San FRAScIsco. Sept. IA proposed
gigantic land steal involving several
million dollars worth Of United States
redwO od timber lands has just been
brought TO light. The lands are situat-
ed i'll the northern part of California, ,and
comprise the most valuable redwood
timber on the coast. y Post special says:
Applications for pre-emption were pre-
pared and signed by dummies. Several
hundred applications of this kind have
been filed with the Government authori-
ties here, it being alleged that Govern
ment officials are acting in colIusiOn
with parties engaged in the scheme. If
the promoters succeed they will control
one-siNth of the timber supply of the
State. Affidavits are now being fled
proving fraudulent acquisition. The
United States Grand Jury propose to
the subject"
, 1883-09-20
The .Tfmes. on the N.P.

NEW YORK, Sept. 11.-TimeS: While
the completion of the Northern Pacific
may bring relief to Washington and
Oregon, it cannot relieve the merchants
and consumers of California of burdens
imposed py group of men who will
still control every line that enters the
State. The Northern Pacific having
been favored in an extraordinary man
ner by congress, the company ought to
serve the people by establishing low
rates, and not unite with those who con-
troll other lines in a pooling arrange
ment or agreement to plunder the peo-
Dle.
, 1883-09-20

Vessels uOcUlneDucu- StedmI oz; sail,
70; total, al.
Receipts for customs Jan. 1st to Sept.
1st, 1883, S42, ,055 u.
Proportion of American to Foreign
bottoms is L Foreign to 16 American.
Exports i'll Foreign Vessels from Jan.
1 to Sept. 'S3; $4,000 laths, 10000
shingles. 20,1S9OO0 feet lumber. Value
of which is S279,2S5.
Collector-A w. Bash, Port Town
send.
Deputy ColIector-W Harmed, Port
Townsend.
Deputy Collector-C. B.Bash of O'Soo-
yoos lake.
Deputy Collector-Wm. o. Chapman,
Port Town send.
Inspector-John NJ. Izett, San Juan.
Inspector-A. L.. Blake, Sehome.
Inspector-A. ID. Attridge, Victoria.
Inspector-F. G. Swayza, Port Town
send.
Irspector-F. H. Winslow, Seattle.
Inspector Ira A. Myers, Port Town
send.
Inspector-E. H. Layman, Port Town
send.
Inspector Thomas Cain, Port Town
send,