Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-03-01

from year to year, excepting that Sometime
pialas make splutter among the quiet dark
snaues, the rich wines and plum colors and
the dainty ecrus: but plaids even when barred
and blended in the richest and most harmoni-
GUS colorings; never acquire genuine popu-
th tah[lty, tney always more or less hang fire, and
the real lovers OF wool cling to their heather
mixtures, their soft tweeds their twilled
chuddahs and their speckled ylgognes. Some
large plalds in wine color and ecrlie,with lines
OF gold and bronze, are shown this season and
will be made for wear with solid Jackets and
vests OF the light TINT in the plaid For a
young lady the jacket is of a very dark wine
eoloreu plush, or velvet the vest is of ecru
ottoman silk, embroidered with light vine in
WINE color and bronze, and fastened with
small round bronze buttons. The skirt is kilt
ed, and the tunic draped diagonally under the
plated skirt of the jacket.
There are fine cloth suits in dark bronze and
myrtle green, that are perfectly plain with
vests OF terra-cOtta rhadames or ecru sicili-
enne and others in which the vests match the
clOtn IN color and only differ from it in being
OF pleated surah or rhadames Long close
hitting redingotes are made of cloth and faced
with SATIN rhadames over pleated silk skirts.
whose upright folds form simulated vest the
reolngote closing only at the waist. Spring
petisses and summer wraps are already being
fashioned out of a novelty in pongee Contain
ing small armure figure, which relieves the
ueadness OF the surface and renders il most
delightful fabric for this purpose. These are
not cut close and plain like the cloth redin-
gotes, but are shirred at the back and held in
Ets n a
twilled silk r-''- -
Many walking dresses in preparation for
spring wear are destitute of drapery and hano
IN straight folds at the back. This IS certainly
something 10 recognize and be thankful for
The punched up walking dress with their
thick WOOlen folds, which careless dress
makers never fasten securely, have been a
burden grievous to bear and for a respite
many women Will be heartily thankful. The
finish in other respects is also simple The
narrow upright bands at the neck are re-
tanned, or are only diversified with straight
"turn overs" which Law close to the throat
and are duplicated in linen with rim of EN-
Droidery. The upright linen collar Is not
more than an inch in depth, has no corners,
ana Is fastened with gold button. Cuffs are
obsolete, the long gloves covering the close
edges OF the sleeves and the space when the
gloves are not in use being filed with serpen-
tine bangles.
SUMMER SATTEENs.
The designs in the pretty satteens are not
so uniformly good this season as last Some
are printed in great detached figures which
are ugly and unbecOming and cannot be re-
deemed by any art in making them up Others
are less conspicuOuslY bad, but have not the
suggestlveness of garden and forest of last
year. In other words they are sitter and
more conventional, the flowers less naturally
treated and detached from the delicate leaf
age and febrous accessories of last vear
There are exceptions to this rule in a class of
charming productions in which all the new
pink, bronze, brown, leaf green, and straw
berry tints are blended most harmoniously in
Hover clusters-small moss roses carnations
and others on solid grounds with solid plain
FABRIC Tor combination. The dark shades of
crushed strawberry and the softer ones of
terra Gotta and Shrimp pink, the dark bronze
ana the cream, present the most attractive
combinations and make up into the most novel
and fresh looking costumes, In making these
materials the plain goods are used for the
apron and scarf like drapery; the figured for
the principal part of the dress; and lace as
trimming IS not required.
Embroidered pattern dresses for summer
wear appear in almost infinite variety. Plain
glnSnams, chamberys, pOngees, and Victoria
lawns have superseded the cashmeres which
have filled the counters through the cold sea
son. Embroidery has been s''run into the
ground" and though it cannot suffer ecliuse
since there is no other OrnamentatiOn which
is so pretty or so useful for the price, still it
seems pity to have it made so common that
II mas become commonplace before it has been
enjoyed.
1t is good news that the gathered and mar
row ruflled skirts, the open bodices belted in,
the surplice waists, and deep belted basques
are TO be employed in the making up of sum-
mer material this year and oVerskirts gotten
rid OF. Overskirts can never be anything more
than an apology for an inadequate first skirt.
and apologies should be rare TO be welcome or
in good taste.
GLOVES AND SHOES.
1t is rather curious that the advent of the
Sarah Bernhardt glove has had good effect
In dfrnfn shTng the desire for very small Tam
parent feet, and in enlarging the size of the
ordinary Shoes, especially those with street
dresses. Shoe dealers do not understand it;
but those who have been long enough in the
business to know the difference acknowledge
the fact, and refer it to the influence of sanf-
tary ideas on the minds of mothers. and not
only their willingness bat their urgency that
the shoes worn by their children should be
made Large enough" Doubtless these have
had their effect also, for the feet Of school
girls are no longer crowded into shoes so
small that they become instruments of tor
ture, and young women seem to be far less
afraid of showing good sized useful feet.
An old fashioned mother was shocked the
other day by finding that her big daughter.
not yet out OF school, required No. Is in walk
ing boots. "GOOd heavens! whata foot for a
young lady )" she calculated. "Why, mamma,
daughter; 'lots of girls in school wear fives.
Miss HOckheimer does" Miss Hoekheimer
belonging to the most fashionable set in a
school, the mothers fears abated
There are some old ladies who Stff
flourish in society whose feet are no
arger than the defOrmed Chinese, and who
still wear such shoes as were common among
women thirty years ago. They cannot walk
my distance, not only because their feet are
almost useless from long compression and in
ictlvlty, but because their shoes are so thin
'oled and inadequate that they do not protect
he feet from the pavement. These women
wear the daintlest of kid slippers with en-
'roidered toes, the thinnest Of silk stockings, |
sHi sun COqueI Win tnelf toes as II they were
'abies in arms; The modern girl is active,
md though society does its best, it cannot |
wholly suppress her. She has learned, too, a |
sOod many things of which her mother never |
ireamed, and one is the extent and stupidity !
II the sacrifice the American girl has been in |
ne hablt OF making to prettiness, and the very |
ow water mark mere prettiness Occupies ia |
COMPARISON with character and q really true |
ana noble type of beauty in the minds of we'll |
informed and intelligent persons. both men |
and women: The days OF a 81 glove upon
" hama Tor her are over. Even if no |
higher motive operates, she will not be both |
'red with them. They are not now good !
style" Gloves must be a little too large |
rather than not large enough, ansi the long. |
oose wrists. so easily adjusted and convenient |
I substitute tQEcNtis, are indispensable. There |
g q natural relation between the shoes and |
he gloves which may be traced through the |
history OF Clothes from the cavaliers boots and
sauntleted coverings for the hand Ia the |
present day, and the best evidence OF the pro- |
sress OF the times in regard 10 clothes is the |
act that the extremities NAV now be well /
and comfortably clothed, without being oon- |
lgned to fashionable perditiop, English |
women wore stout, sensible shoes and walking
loots long before French and American women |
'0ulq be lnoG0ed to put them on, and il is |
manly because OF the walking exercise they |
AVE always taken and the freedom demanded |
or their feet that any considerable differense /
i size has been remarked between the feet of |
english and American wGIasn. The Ameri- |
AN girl OF to-day aan show a clean average
With her English cousin. I
THE sUPERFLUITIEs OF ToyEy
The superfuous woman has received a great |
zeal OF attention, Tut the ranid ra to al vgbich