Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-06-04
THE SUMNER FASHIONS.
A SEASON WITH GAY COLORS
AND RICH FABRICS.

Made Suits-The Novel Features /
Design-JeweIry for the Street
NEW YORK, June fashions are very dC
clded and very striking this season They a.
1ohlsh unsophisticated eyes, and show thi
women are less timid than formerly-possess
ed OF more nerve, and dare to do what the
WOulu not nave dreamed of a few wears ag,
II nave the courage to wear what suit
me- said very beautiful woman the othe
day. That is all the difference. [ do no
copy other women. go to pictures and ar
sources for what are called my inspirations
and whenever see anything that suits me
make note of it, and sooner or later. put i
into my dress. In that way | make fashion
instead of following it,"
All women have not this courage nor thi
opportunity, but certainly the standard of in
ulNluuallIy Is much higher and the diVersi {,
much greater of late years than formerly
This diversity is also happily tending to-
wards the establishment of more fixed laws
| toward an understanding of what is best suit
ed for different ages, and it NAV in time-yyill
eyen-suggest without Offense what is bes
adapted to different conditions.
'One has to die to do much before one dies ,
| remarked middle-aged lady of position anf
fortune in dry goods store recently, where
sne was buying prints and ginghams. II have
no use Tor these myself" she continued '.fol
| nave to entertain so much in summer that
| must be dressed always for company: but
| really enjoy buying them for my daughters
| ana remember hair-striped' blue cotton and
| corded pink gingham that wore when
satins." ''i'''' sims u
Not excepting your wedding dress?" was
| the laughing query.
NOT excepting my wedding dress" she re-
| plleu, Tor the train was so long that after
| my wedding day never wore it with anv
comfort; con ana whether it was because l was
not 10 SILK and satins born (cOnfdentiaIly)
40 not know, but certainly | like fine
! c0ttOns better-at least in summer"
But II Is sllken season; season of mag
! innocent IaDrlcs; of much lace, of bewildering
masses, and of variety of color. Yet. ont Of
the whole range, the finest affects are pro-
duced by the use of single colOrs illuminated
| oS uashes OF duiI red or pale yellow, or by the
| coHDlhatlon OF black with white or white
! with yellow.
| A toilet prepared for the coaching parade is
| OF elecCrlc blue satin, with bonnet to match.
| trimmed with grouD of corn colored featb ;
| ers; parasol lined with corn color and long
| Swede gloves. An enormous bouquet of DAFT
| dress. ii' VI '''0
Another costume is a mixture of strav vvher,,,
| ana cTeam-StraWberry surah trimmed with
! cream lace, large red silk parasOl lined with
cream, anu emp hat faced with strawberry
| ana trimmed with strawberry red plumes
Black was uniform for so long that it is
| faLher curious to see it combined with the art
| reus or dull shade of yellow, and to see how
VlVld an effect is produced by a lining n oroun
/
BLACK costume. The value of yellow on bring
! ing out other cOlOrs is beginning to be we'll
understood, and nothing prettier can be i'm
| dPlheu LOT spring costume than an electric
Dlue sufah with glimpses of gold in the lin
ing ana bunch of buttercups in the belt
SOIla colors, 1t may be remarked, are pre-
Ierfeu IN the richest materials for short
| dresses or costumes. Figures are disappear
ing from secondary toilets, and are only adj
mlssabie IN cottons or the costly brocades used
IN combination with satin or lace
These grand fabrics ara orowiyoe mana olo
ganC every day; but there is one good side to
TINS fact, and that is that the costlier. more
artistic, more individualized they become. the
longer they are kept, the more service they
are made to perform. A dress, the train Of
which costs from thirty to fifty dollars per
yard, ana which cannot be duplicated, will
not be thrown aside. 1t is the nimsv stufIs
Whlch are forever multiplied, yet never ade-
quate to any Office.
Red is used mostly for parasoIs and for chill
dren. In the dull art shades it is the most fash
lonaDle lining most for black and cream The
brlghter UNITS are used solid with bamboo
STICKS without trimming, except a gilt ring to
h0ld the 1olds In position. Embroidered birds
anu DuIJefl1es, artificial flowers, and the
heavy lined bows with ends which looked
like clumsy neckties, have all disappeared
from the parasols of the present season.
indeed there Is a praiseWorthy tendency
among really fashionable and refined peOple
to get rid of unnecessary rubbish and simplify
personal belongings as much as possible,
putting into quality and 1ineness of workman,
snip the money that was formerly put to size
and quantity. There other reasona too
which enter into and modify the dress ques-
lon. one Is the ecOnomiZing of space in great
cities. Another, the gradual aggregation of
social and other duties
Women must be relieved of the perpetual
care OF the thousand gewgaws which have
Deen considered necessary to a feminine toi-
let. Life Is too short for them. Other objects
OF more Importance are beginning to demand
our time and attention. This is not true
alone of working professional women: it is
true OF the woman of society. She, too is
crowded with cares, for now "a days if people
are not obliged to work for themselves they
are made to work for others.
RATIONAL DRESS.
The Rational Dress Association IN London
with which the Duchess of Westminster and
Miss Gladstone are associated. is to have an
eXhihltion this month, at which models are to
De eXhlDited winch committee has decided
must comply with the following conditions:
First. Freedom of movement.
second. Absence of pressure over any part
of the body.
Third. Not more weight than is necessary
for warmth, and both evenly distributed.
Fourth. Grace and beauty combined with
comfort and convenience.
Fifth. Not departing too OOcOnspcuOusly from
the fashion of the times.
Nearly all these conditions seemed to have
been met in dress worn recently bv a lady
who had invented the costume to suit her own
purposes, and wears no other. The lady isun-
married, is not rich, has a very small income
to which she adds alittle by writing OCCASION
ally for the magazines; but she is a student
more than writer, and would rather live on
little and follow her own pursuits, than spend
much and be obliged to work to order and ex-
press other peoples ideas and opinions.
Her EFFORT, therefore, has been to reduce her
mode OF living and her expenditure for dress
to the lowest possible terms consistent with
habits of refinement and the companionshiD
OF educated people. 1t is not my present pur-
pose to describe her life, but her dress, and
what she considers are the results to herself
OF its adoption.
1t consists of two parts, an underdress and
an overdress. The first is simply a short COM
blnatlon garment which forms a skirt and
cover for the corded waist which serves in
place of corsets. Upon the front of this near
the throat is placed a pocket. The lower edge
Is attached TO nounce matching the over
dress. The upperdress consists Of two straight
Wldths OF material one yard and half long
by two and half wide, with a hem three
inches in depth. There Is a V-shaped open
ing in front eleven inches in depth and OPEN
lngs upon the sides of eleven inches for the
arm holes, which are straight and bring the
sleeve, which is pufed at the top, very high
rate IN any direction with perfect free
dom. A square is cut out of the upper
part OF the back to reduce
the amount of fullness to be shirred in at
the neck and pleated lengthwise into the
broader bOX-pleats of the lower skirt. the
seam being concealed by belt coming from
the sldes-which might be covered hy a band
and bow of ribbon, but was not in this in
stance. The neck is finished with narrow
band, which closes over tucker of India
muslin, laid in folds and edged with thick
ruche OF very finely plated lace or muslin
ornamental pins are used to fasten the gar
ment at the throat and the breast. and It is
also draped little to the left side by being
drawn up and fastened with CLASH or MIN
The waist may be girded in by a cord and tas-
sci or left loose; 1T looks well upon a slender
and rather tall figure either way. No fitting
is required, therefore, and any one can make
dress of this description, which need cost
only the price of five to eight yards of mate
rial, according to width.
Ihe design which takes so long to describe
is really very simple, and fulfills alIthe cOndi-
tlons called for by the rational dress commit
tee. 1t includes freedom, care, light weight
absence of pressure, adaptability, grace, and
sufhclent likeness to prevailing fashions to
render 1t at best an excellent at-hOme dress
1t does away with the deshabille appearance
OF the wrapper, having more in effect of the
academic gown, and the somewhat stiff chem
lsetta may be replaced by handkerchief of
art silk or muslin and lace The V shaped
opening is not only useful as providing for
pretty lace or decorative finish essential to
the good appearance of loosely fitting waist,
but it breaks up the straight lines prevents
any appearance of "bagginess," =" and furnishes
access to the breast pocket, which Is placed
upon the underdress and is convenient for
notes, letters and change as well as handker-
chief.
THE ''TAILOR-MADE" SUITS
This original design acquires significance
not only on account of its simplicity and adam
liability, but also because a reaction NAV
shortly be expected from the light dress which
has now reached its limits. The .'tailor-made"
suits were protest against the ruffles and
rubbish of the '.Dolly Warden" revival, twenty
years ago, and now, or very soon. practical
aemonstratlon may be expected against the
indecent and paralysis provoking styles which
are now hOaied under the general eognomen
OF tailor-made-the tailors in this Country
at least have very little to do with them. The
dudine-feminine form Of dude-the Wearer
o sleeves Of