Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-09-19

nOats away, anu the hot water that has been
thrown out daring the eruption, and which is
now running In many rvulets to the bottom OF
the geyser basin. The drivers stop at several
geysers with names such as the Minute Man, the
Monarch. and others, which are said to be active
at regular periods. but which did not favor the
visitors at this time, and which the driver was
inclined to disparage as not to be relied on and
as of no account as compared with those Of the
Upper Basin, to which the party was gong. The
steaming, spOuting springs were distributed at
frequent intervals over an area of fully mile
square, on hill and in valleys, and everywhere
the ground was covered with white and tawny
crusts of deposits, under which could be heard
strange rumblngs. and upon which ones foot
fall caused ringing sound that suggested hor-
ribie caverns, into which one might be plunged
by an incautiOus step, to be horribly stewed
to death. Driving through puffs and clouds
of steam and across trickling streams that ran
through the sand to show where the Monarch
had the night before been throwing I'D its col
umn of hot water, the road led beyond the gey-
sers into broad grassy praries. thickly dotted
with blue and yellow flowers The prairies
crossed. there was a hill to climb. and then an
other to descend. where the road was about as
bad as bad could be. The descent was steep
and the way rocky, the ruts at one side three or
tour feet higher than On the other. The drivers
appiled their brakes and cursed the rOal-build-
ers. and the passengers fastened to get out,
preferring to walk rather than run the immi-
nent risk of an upset upon the rocky hillside.
The sun was very hot now, and it was difficult
to realize, riding along with all superfiuOus
Clothing cast aside, that few hours before it
had been freezing cold and that a roaring camp
fire was comfortable.
When the government sees fit to make suffi-
Gent appropriationsto improve the road through
properly applied, it will be regarded as one of
the most delightful parts of the National Park
to visit. The entrance to the canon is charm
ing, and the TRAIL hard as it is to travel on horse
or In wagon, runs picturesquely close to the rapid
GibbOn river and crosses and recrosses it by
fOrds, with superb views the whole distance.
Fearful jOlts over unavoidable boulders strain
horses and wagons and one plunge and crash
that throws all seats forward and brings every
thing up standing when it is over compeIs the
acknowledgment from the English Journalist
that the wheels which will stand such usage are
a jolly good testimonial to American wheel
wrights and their work. A beautiful boiling
spring. whose waters are of peculiar brilliant
blue. is passed about half way down the canon,
and then the road crosses the stream to the
lower side by a ford so deep as to immense
the hubs Of the Wheels the bottom being
covered with huge bOulders of red sandstone,
so far apart as to let the vehicles drop suddenly
and frequently, with splashes and punges that
through forest, like all the forests in the park,
In being filled with dead trees, the evidences Of
desOlating fires and the roadway was badly OBJ
structed by many stumps which ought to be re-
moved. pleasant natural bower of pine and
cedar bOughs shut out the bright sunlight while
the teams tOiled up the steep road to the Glib
bon Canon Falls and then those who dared ven
ture to slide down the side of the canon dis
lance Of about 200 feet, over slope destitute of
grass and covered with stones that went bound
ing down between the trees with fearful velocity
when started by the feet, obtained q fine view,
well worth the hazardous trip down and the
more difficult climb back to the top. The Glib
bon river. coming through gorge between lofty
wooded hills, is abruptly crowded into narrow
passage, walled by huge solid bOulders of dark
mOss-cOvered rocks. The water rushes over q
projecting ledge in divided stream, one-half
of which goes down In cloud or foam, while
the other is spread over the Enthusiastically piled
up bOders in delicate, lace-like streams. The
distance from the top Of the fall to the basin
below seems to be not far from hundred feet,
but the cliffs below rise bold and rugged and
almost perpendicular to three times that height
The best climbers of the party. including the
English lady and gentleman who are active
members of the Alpine Club and the little lady
from Mandam, are winded by the hand-and-
knee scramble to the road. and tits voted
blessing that there are no more such chasms near
at hand to be explored. Great horse-flies lit upon
the TANKS and necks of the horses as they trot-
ted through the forest road leading up to the
top of the next ridge. and when they flew away
they left huge clOts of blood that trickled down
In red streams These pests annoy the horses
terribly during the heat of the day, but are be-
numbed by the cold of morning and evening
The elk and antelope, which are now seldom
seen along the beaten and frequently travelled
trails, escape them by going up into the noun
tains where the air is cool and the breeZes sweep
the insects away. Out OF the GibbOn river val
ley, and descending into the valley of the Fire
hole creek, a splendid view was had to the south
and west. The land slOped gradually. the road
leading through wood and meadow, and miles
away 1t rose again, bathed in a thin haze.
through which were seen the Twin Buttes, blue
and cool, and beyond them, stretching peak
upon peak, gray and serene, were the cones and
pyramidal tops of the Rocky Mountain Divide
Lower down the slope one could look about and
fancy himself at the bottom of bowl, the Vel
lowstone ridge sweeping grandly to the north
and west to meet the mountains of the CONT
mental Divide as they stretched irregularly in q
semi-circle from west to east. After drive of
more than Is miles over excessively bad roads
the drivers insisted at noon on stopping to rest
and feed their horses at Marshall's, q two-story
timber-shack. with mud-stopped chinks, and
the tourists were glad of the opportunity to
eat the Indifferent lunch which the proprietor
furnished. Marshall is Objectionable to the
Yellowstone Park lmprOveme nt company, and
there Is no doubt they will endeavOr to drive
him from the park. He has kept his house at
the forks of the Firehole for four years. and has
sheltered and fed many tourists In rude way.
but the lessees, who have undertaken to build
hotels and maintain camps at different points,
under the lease from the Secretary of the Inte-
TlOT, cialIn an exclusive privilege. M8rShalP6
charges are high. and 1t Is asserted that they
have sometimes been exOrbitant, and there is q
notice posted in his rude reception-rOom inform
ing him that transportation in the Park is only
to be undertaken at rates to be approved by
the Interior department. Not fancying the
prospect of being compelled to break up after
he has been settled here so long, Marshall will
apply to the department for permission to con-
tinue. The Yellowstone Improvement company
have no camp nearer than that at the Upper
Geyser Basin, ten miles away.
After the halt and lunch at Marshalls there
were some changes in the disposition of the
travellers, and your correspondent, wearied
with the tossing, jOlting and humping Incl
dental to wagon transportation, to say nothing
of the frequently dusty walks up steep hills,
took to the saddle and thenceforth conided in the
strength, speed and amiablity of a bucking
cayuse. The change was delightful. Nothing
In the way Of exercise could be more exhilarat-
ing than canter on one Of these little cranky
ponies, which will gallop for hours if they have
company and a good leader. and it was not long
before two of US who travelled together had ex-
plored Che Lower Geyser Basin. Alarge spring,
that bubbles feebly, throwing up thick white
and pink mud, is the greatest curiosity in this
basin which appears to have been full of turbu-
lent springs in times past. The white and pink
cOlOrS are thrown ND SeD3ratolV and the