Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-09-10

Autumn Walking Suits-Inhuence of the
Stage Upon the Question of Dress-Sur-
vival of Filter and Fittest-The New
Trimming for CIOaks and Jackets
Braid in New Role
Correspondence Of the -Koraing Ne,cs.
NEW YORK, Sept. 6.-There is a universal
complaint among the buyers who have re-
turned from Europe, as well rs among those
who cater to the varying taste for clothes at
! nome, that there is nothing new," Esno nov
elites 0t'-only attempts to put a somewhat
different face upon old acquaintances or
merely call them by another name This is.
of course. perfectly natural and. in fact, in
evltabie state of things-the limits bv which
! the majority are bound are soon reached and
change except as a see-saw-or forward and
/ back, from right to left-s difficult and some
times impossible.
Fhe problem which the desire for novelty
/ presents to the distracted caterer on the part
! OF those who cannot pay for it results in the
/ queer jumbles and monstrosities which appear
/ IN color and design. in fabric and in head
gear fortunately the making Of cloths and
/ silks, OF cottons and linens, is fixed bv the
| possibilities Of looms and machinery and
/ the absolute necessity of abiding bv what they
/ can turn out IN the way of element al material
/ unll such TIME as genius inyents new methods
I NONtitNs therefore, consists only in lilflp
/ more or less cOlOr-a little more or less silk,
! cotton or wOOl-a different combination Of
| these factOrs-and much change IN design
/ as WIZ make The fashion plates of this wear
/ look different from the fashion plates Of last
! year
THE SURVIVAL OF FILTER AND FITTEST.
/ Women who have control of sufficient means
! and the incl ination TO spend it on dress are
lev, iGw IN number. While possessed Of a larger
! llDerty OF choice, they are usually governed
! by more refined and experienced taste, and
/ by certain conventional ideas which are
! scarcely known, much less fully recognized
/ DeyOnd the limits OF a circle. There is another
J class possessing money and making a larger
| capital out OF the absence of scruples and
! restrictive delicacy; and Of this are the wo-
/ men Who usually stand as the rcprcscntatives
! of fashion, whose extravaganza and spnsa-
! tlonallsm, fed by doubtful class of men,
! are mace the synonyms OF American woman
noou. rms false estimate is all the more hurt
/ ful and mischievous because If affects fine
| minds of young girls, and furnishes them with
| 4 Oau example when they need high ideal
| lowering their standard below the AVERAGE
! when they should be inspired by every posi-
| Die influence to raise it TO Il higher level Not
| wlthStandlng drawbacks however the ac-
tuai science OF dress Is gaining; the survival
OF the httest helps here as in what are consid-
ered more important matters. There are con-
/ stant additions to the stock of permanent
| ideas. and the 'revivals'' which freoueutIv
take place are on the line of that which has
adapted itself to the general requirements,
rather than Offolly, eccentricty aud cXtrava-
gance.
You cannot get rid of the WALKING skirt
the polonaise the cape, the ulsters. the walk
ing jacket or the whole dress because thev
are convenient and adaptable; while the
basque, though cut up and down, in and out
mas survived without an interregnum for up-
wards of thirty years and was then simply
evolved OF "evoluted" from the bodice with a
short separate skirt, shaped and at
tached; and this from the ancient
! short gown which still survives in the house
anu .resslng sacque, but has been improved
| by shaping
1t Is always difficult to make dealers in. or
makers OF women's clothing believe that any
ldea can obtain permanent place. They
know nothing of the law of developments and
that, no matter how greatly retarded bv ie-
norance and stupidity, its action is inevitable
even in 50 shifting and changefu an arena rs
that occupied by modern dress. They par
tlcularly dislike the advent of useful ideas as
! these mean less money spent and less depen-
dence upon their authority
WOVEN GARMENTS
The finest and most far-reachng develop
ment of modern times in the wav of garments
Tor women consists in the woven garments of
! SILK, wool, ana SILK and wool, which come in
the form of underwear. capes, jackets and ier-
seys. Ihe idea OF woven garments or garments
formed OF elastic cloth is not by any means
! ephemeral. 1t is bound to grow Already il
| produces caps, capes, leggins, basques, petit
! coats, vests, and complete underwear the
| whole garment covering the body evenly. ana
/ being finished in one piece.
! Persons who know how near human perfec
/ lon these union garments have been brought
/ how well they are shaped how soft TO the toTch
now sanitary III their protecting and health
/ Iul lnuutnce, VIII make no change in this re-
! spect at least, because change means loss and
/ misfortune when you have got Just what Won
| want for your purpose.
The Jersey TO dealers Was II canpice. to
! wearers, Il revelation. For the first time in
! their lives they could use their arms freely
! when they were "dressed;" for the first time
| raise, wave them, throw a stone, hit Il ball or
/ IN any other way exercise them without pull
! ing up, disarTanging, or dslOcating some part
/ OF the machinery which girded their arms and
waists. Docs anyone suppose they are such
itilots az to give up this newly acquired free
! dom? The jersey may disappear for 2 time
! though even that is not probable, but the
! woven garment in that or some other shane
! Will survive and save the multipIicitv of
/ costumes, the necessity which has heretofore
! existed for special dress for boating or bali
/ praying, Ior SymnastIc training or any health
| iul exercise whatever. and has greatly
! hlndered the practice of active games and
useful arts by the majority of girls
1 HEALTHFCL AND HELPFUL SCHOOL DRESS.
| Ono of the most gratifying signs OF progress
! is the general awakening in regard to school
| dress. 1t has heretofore been considered
enough to discourage a lavish dIanlay Of iew-
ery, but girl could he thinly clad in cold
weather; she could change from thick wool
TO thin SILK; she could cncase her arms in skim
tlght sleeves and pull her dresses together
within quarter OF an inch of her life and no
one one thought OF protesting against her folly
But gymnastics in schools have ACCOMPLISHED
s0mething-they have established tho fact
that IN the ordinary dress the girl cannot raise
OF use her arms, and il has at last dawned
upon teachers and intelligent mothers
that she ought to be able to use them
elsewhere than in the gymnasium. The
appalling fact that there is barely a single
strong, healthy woman or girl left in these
United states has at last suggested that
there may be some connection between
| health and dress; between dress and deyelon
nenti between the universal nerves and
I "A II =
tilat assall women in regard to the ever re-
curing problems of their clothes we talk
dress as FRIVOLOUS 1t is the most serious
question In tlle WOlAaAs life of to-day. and no
girl or woman can accomplish any impor-
tant Work or purpose who has not practically
settled 1t for herself.
The principal OF one of the most fasbiopa-
BILE schools in New y Ork will not permit her
pupils to wear a dress of anv material save
WOOL or cottOn-the former in winter, the lat
ter IN mlldef WeatheF-if they choose a e,irl
wearing velvet quit one day was sent home
with message that her dress must be changed
to one adapted for school wear The mother
of the girl returned reply that it was a last
years suit which must be utilized or n ,youId
be outgrown. The teacher was inHexIble.
She said the school room was no place for
cast of inery that the moral effect was bad
ana VIC hnEl result worse than the present
loss The lesson was a salutary one, and if
all teachers knew IShat was wanted in this
respect and demanded it of their pupils much
would be accomplished for the future genera
tiOn of women.
FIVE NECESSARY sULEs.
a school IN massachusetts, recommends to
Its two hundred students a sensible school
! 9ress, OF whleh the following are some Of the
teatures First, 1t is to consist of SINGLE
layers OF clothing, so that warmth shall he
equally distributed over the bcd, kecondIv
1t should be sufficiently loose not to impose
restrictions pu0n the free and active use of
the TNseoa, Third, the material should be
soft, unexciting in color and undistinguisb
able IN pattern. Fourth, the design sbolrld
raf ortIf 81
the material rs elastic, and shoulfE Ge divided
INTO rev parts, ID ordeI t.. lie lree from dis
fractions. tftk, " should avoid whatever *
/ unnecessary OF that takes time and strength
| that could be better put into work for play
The combination undergarment of tnitted
WOOL or cotton. or both, the skins OF UIeafed
wool attached to q lining waist cut with a
sPaIs oHeF Wy iHlks AnH lolonaise or woven
Jersey sHpplles all the requirements for
such q dress. Ii the polonaise is employed the
| lining waist may be extended so as 10 reouire
only deep pleated founce of the wool to
bring IT to the length of a walking skirt thus
rendering 1t lighter and cheaper "'+'S
Inc pOionalse should be Ileafed at the back
part q \, Us tk.l9ess being taken out of the
/ WalsE ana cut with whole sack front, which
could be belted in. The sleeves should be cI:t
very high and somewhat full at thc 80. 10 AZ
to surround the arm at the 7ocKet and allow
Tree e, movement; aSN1in en- III afe5s skiits made Of
TINS e4galtzes both warmth aud weight
AUTUMN WALKING DRESSES.
All the new dresses for autumn stroct ,ro.,
partake more or less of the coat form ,gt+L y
walking skirt which is plcatod ana rrihihed
Pearance s a'3 gSo anp3 lie = to {efe{Se i.s mai sp
OF AraPea BACK, The design Is UsuaIIy cTt
away tIelL tile front, more or less, and some
times forms long double lappels and SON .aee
hacr ~ p9heis th inserted between .he mont and
; DacA , ol tne SKIRT w!erG 81 Joins the drapery
rms last hsN ever, Is only admissible With a
sion Of materials, plain and figured