Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-05-02

i culiy SuduSAuS - We AOVhNN NfeN -
from different direction, but 1t was
always clear and we'll defined In the
cloudless atmosphere of this beautiful
day, leaving in our memory a picture
that will never be forgotten.
Many of the cities and towns that
we passed are historically interesting,
while others are made picturesque by
the ruins Of famous castle, or the ivy
clad walls Of some ancient cathedral.
Another noteworthy feature OF this
days ride was the fact that we passed
through whole forests OF olive trees,
and for the first time had an adequate
conception of the quiet. restiul intiu-
enee of the soft color of their foliage.
In fact the whole days ride was replete
with novelty, and every mile afforded
charming picture. AS We ap-
preached Marseilles the scenery very
much resembled that of some portions
Of Wyoming Territory, the banks of
the rivers being of the same light col>
ored rock or earth, and In many places
the face of the cliff was worn into
ridges By the action Of the elements,
giving the appearance at a distance OF
columns, towers and pinnscles, soulp-
tured by the hand of an artist. Our
road now passed through a tunnel
three miles in length, and as we
emerged the first sight of the sea was
one Of extreme beauty. The sun was
shining brightly, but there was mel
lew sottness in the air that tinged the
whole landscape with a peculiar glow.
The islands seemed to be set in an
immense mirror, and the golden hue
of the atmosphere made the scene like
view in fairy land. We reached
Marseilles early in the afternoon, and
lost no time in getting a suitable turn
out for drive through the city and
along the sea shore. The scenery in
the environs of Marseilles is very
lovely, embracing, as it does, views OF
suburban mansions aud villas, and
glimpses of the harbor covered with
the merchantmen OF every cline, as
they enter and depart from this i'm
portant seaport. Our route took us
through La Cannebiere, a wide and
beautiful avenue which runs through
the city and is shaded by large trees,
Beyond is the "Cours, or park ,adOrn-
ed with flowers and beautiful trees,
afording pleasant promenade for the
citizens.
From the high point near the Notre
Dame de la Garde, magnificent view
of the wide valley, and the busy city,
was obtained. The hills we're dotted
here and there with beautiful, bright
colored villas. Far beyond we could
look out upon the waters of the Med
iterranean glistening beneath the
setting sun. Then we passed out OF
the city by the smooth and we'll kept
Chemin dc Centure leading along the
sea coast, whence we returned to our
hotel by tAe Corniche road. At the
Grand Hotel de Marseilles we found
excellent quarters, and as has been
the case almost every evening since
our arrival in Europe, fire is needed to
make US comfortable. Indeed, though
Marseilles is well towards the south
of Europe, we have as yet seen no
warm weather, everyone pronouncing
the season unusually backward.
Coal is scarce, and wood is dear in
this locality. For a handful of wood
to make little FIRE we we're charged
FIVE francs. There is an elevator in
the hotel, but it does not come down
below the third floor, so you have 10
walk up two fights Of stairs to get into
it and they do not use it to bring down
passengers, but only to carry guests
up to their rooms. There is no bell
to call the attendant, who is generally
busy in some other part of the hotel
when you want to 90 up to your room.
So the ascenseur, as they call it, is of
very little service. The landlady re-
ceives guests on their arrival with
many words and gestioulations of well
come, her face all wreathed with
smiles, and very graciously bids us
adieu when we depart, which conde.
sension adds just % per cent to our
bill.
NICE, April 8.
We left Marseilles at IL am. The
road passed through several quaint old
towns and along some picturesque
reaches Of seashore. AS we neared
Cannes the slopiug gardens above the
railroad were most charming. Beau
tiful palm trees and immense cacti
gave new charm to the scene. Orange
and lemon trees began to appear. not
only in blossom but in full fruit.
| Cannes is beautifully located, and it
has become one of the most famous
health resorts in all Europe. As we
stopped a few moments at the station,
everything was bright and gay, and
the promenades were thronged with
fashiOnably dressed people, who were
fully enjoying the balmy air of this
delightful watering place. Our train
arrived at Nice at 4 o'clock, soon after
which we were housed at the Hotel
Des Anglais. Like most European
hotels, the table d'hote dinner is att
pm, at which hour the guests nearly
all meet at the table, and spend an
hour or two quite socially. Our win.
dows overlook the Promenade Des
Anglaise, and the blue Mediterranean
sea, the tideless waves of which wash
the shore a few rods distant. There
seems to be a great difference between
the temperature in the sunlight and
in the shade Of Nice. 1t is quite COO
just before sunrise and just after sun.
set, at which hours al invalids arc
! cautioned to remain in doors. Nice
is lovely resort for those who cannot
endure the biting winds and sharI
frosts OF the northern zone Its a city o
b hotels, which have been filed will
e guests all the winter. but who are Jus
now commencing to turn their face
i homeward.