Wessington Springs herald. (Wessington Springs, Aurora County, Dakota [S.D.]) 1883-1891, 1883-05-05
French Dresses.

French Dresses.
Modistes who have Just returned from
Paris announce that there are no decided
changes in the styles of new dresses, but
that there are many small features that
give an air of novelty. Many of the ma
terials also of last season are retained,
and combined with others that are new;
for instance, satins are by nc means out
of fashion, and in the new colors form
the principal part of some Of the most
elegant dresses, brocades also appear again,
and are especially favored by Worth,
who uses them in large outline designson
satin, ottoman reps, and grenadine, and
in smaller figures on checked silk
grounds. The richest and softest colors
are seen in the new dresses, and indeed
color prevails almost to the exclusion of
black, making it difficult to find entirely
black dresses, as it is the French caprice
to introduce amid the black either white
or n of the new red Enthusiastically,
raspberry, chauldron or fame-or else
the deep mandarin or other yellow tints.
Short dresses abound, and in the entire
importations of some If the largest
houses not one full train is seen, the
demi-train making the only varia-
ton from round skirts that
escape the floor. These short
skirts, whether of costly or of inexpen-
sive fabrics, whether deliberately or sim
ply draped, are almost invariably made
on a narrow foundation skirt, with cas-
ings across the back for steel or bone
springs. A cushion filled with hair is
placed just below the belt and above the
springs in many imported dresses, but
this is unwholesome and warm, and it lie
far better to arrange there bouffant dra-
peries of lighter weight.
The founces on such skirts depend
upon the arrangement of the drapery
above for their depth, but they are alike
all around the skirt, and though very
simple must be very full, and give q
finish as of a border at the foot. Gath
cred trimmings are effective and fashion
able for summer dresses. Adouble rufae
or ruche of satin or ottoman silk trims
the foot of plain skirts; this may be
gathered by two rows in the middle,
making a frill Of the doubled bias mate.
rial to turn each way, or else there may
be two double ruffles turned downward,
and tapping like two soft pufs. The LAM
brequin founce in large festoons makes a
wide and elaborate trimmingf for thin stuff6s
edged with lace; it is laid in box plaits
between each cure, and has an upright
heading Of lace, fine plating, or of gath
cred frills. Box-plaitings, the round or
gan plaits, loosely flowing wide plaits,
fine plaits that are partly tucked, and
the pressed fat side plaits are all used
again.
For the draperies Madame Raymond
announcesthe revival of apron over-skirk,
a fashion that has never entirely disap.
peared here, and is seen on new dresses
> with short wrinkled full breadths for the
3 slender, whose hips are too slight, or quite
l long, with low draping, for those who
are more stout, while the diagonal Greel
, apron is used for all, and is made espe
: cially becoming to slight figures by tn
addition of the dropping puff about tn
. waist. There are also stylish straigh
effects given to skirts by having three O
!, four wide plaits down each side opening
over a fiat front of another material tina
: has bows Of ribbon almost covering it
! When the short basques are not use
: with such skirts the plaits are transferre'
to the front instead of the sides, and tn
, over-dress becomes a sort of demi-polo
! : naise extending in long peplum point
: quite plain on the hips and low on tn
' skirt, with some soft drapery added to th
!. middle of the back of the skirt to fill tn
. !, space between the peplum sides. Sleeve
slightly boutfant at the top are a decides
: feature of the new dresses, and there ar
|. many very full cuffs and other trimming
. around the wrist, but these, as we'll a
. lace frills, or the pufffs and slashes, mus
. be very soft in order not to destroy tn
> outline of the arm. The basques o
Worth's dresses have two or three welt
ing cords on the edges, and are shorte
: than those made by other dressmakers
3 they are always broaderin the back, will
!. always square corners, but fully platte,
: and pulled between, and with less atten
. ton to Innings and facings than other
give; indeed, some of his arrangement
. are eccentric as we'll as original, for h
!. often displays the selvedges Of rich stuff
: on conspicuous draperies on the bust 0
!. on the front breadths of skirts. To fnisI
. the neck and wrists, and to fill tn
, triangular, pointed, or square open necki
= : soft cream-tinted net like that Of fine oil
: Malines lace is used in double puffs, an
sometimes very narrow velvet ribbon j
= run in the top of these to tie Them il
{ place. There are also very full frill
: Of three or four rows of crepe lisse seal
: Hoped or in leaf points on the edges fo
- giving a touch of white around the necl
5 but all these inner trimmings are no,
very inconspicuous, only a slight glimps
of them being seen above the dress-H1s
~>xSs R01o~