Morning journal and courier., 1883-07-31
Fashion Notes.

Felt hats are in vogue, and in order to adapt them to the season they are pierced with small holes in the crown, by which means ventilation is secured.
 A novelty in head-wear is scarcely destined to become popular. It is bonnet of Swe- dish red, embroidered in silks and trimmed with a bunch of ostrich or other plumes. Extremely pretty suits for little boys are made in white twilled flannel If they are made with the kilt a pleated blouse is laced up the front with blue silk cord and the deep collar is embroidered in some appropriate de- sign, such as an anchor at the corners. If short pants are worn instead of the kilt, 8 deep pleated jacket accompanies it, with a waist band or leather belt. Black lace fiohus are very much worn some of Spanish and guipure lace are ex- ceedingly handsome, an elaborate design being carried out in such 8 way that it harmonizes in every particular with the purpose for which it is intended, being close and thick in the center of the back and graduated to the finest outlines towards the edges, and at the ends intended to be crossed in front.
 Dressy basques for evening wear are cut open in oval shape below the throat and finished of with 8 standing net collar em-
 broidered with gold, silver or steel beads, and made to project by fine thread like
 wires, and fastened by a small brooch.
 Sleeves of lace are worn to the elbow and
 finished off with beaded ruffies; satin puffs, edged with lace are worn above the sleeves,
 giving the appearance of epaulets.
 Clusters of narrow ribbon are now worn,
 not only at the neck but as decorations for
 the skirts of the dresses. Many of them are
 brocaded, and the latest novelty in this par i Eicu1arJ Is ii the imitation Of tfeffcnes lace
 patterns in the brocade. Great quantities of
 these narrow ribbons are required, as the
 loops in the clusters are long and double, and
 it is easy to believe in the 45O yards said to
 have been used in the garniture of one even
 ing dress.
 Linen collars are worn in preference to rufaings for small evenings. Of the many
 popular shapes, the favorite iS the narrow upright bands, fastened with narrow ribbons in front instead of with the old fashioned stud or button. Many of these collars are finished of with pleatings of linen, either
 white, colored or spotted others, a little more dressy, are edged with. lace and yet another fashion is to have two rows Of hem. stitch as bordering, finished of with fine lace edging.
 Sleeves for full dress are still exceedingly short and gloves or mittens very long. Skirts arc short enough to show the embroidered stocking well as the sandal. Boots but little worn in the evening, and a favorite material for lady's slipper is undressed kid with painted designs upon the toes and very often upon the sides as well. pretty foot looks better with flat decoration on the slipper than with rosettes, buckles or any other trimming which interfsres with the contour of the foot-st least so says an au- thority. s>
 Ginghams, nowadays differ 0 good deal from the materials which went by that name twenty years ago. They were made of a mixture of linen and cotton, whereas the modern giHgham is entirely of cotton. Eve ry season the demand for it increases, while 1f1rio fo vor, not because it is not pretty and effec- tive, but because the expense of getting it laundried is such consideration. No doubt this is one reason for the popularity of sateens and other heavy wash goods they last the season without paying visit to the washtub
 Sateen is satisfactory for many reasons It IS obtainable fn delicate shades of color does not call for much in the way of trim ming, and harmon1zes well with other mate- rials. A gingham plaid can be made up very prettily in combination with it. A box pleated skirt of satin will look well with a plaid tunic and bodice, or if the reverse is che sen. and the skirt is of plaid, the bodice and tunic of polonaise of the sateen, the re- suit will be equally happy. The eolors of the plaids not being very gay in ginghams, there is great margin of choice in that of the sateen to be used in combination with it. Myrtle green, brown, maroon, claret and chocolate are. all suitable for the purpose.
 Trains are coming into popularity again, although SO far only in modified form, dinner and demi toilette dresses having them about ten or twelve inches on the ground. A con- plete train springing from the waist sewn on the waistband and worn under the bod ice, is by far the most convenient for walk Ing in crowd or for dancing-roona, be- cause it can be raised and carried over the arm. And the train, requiring less material, is fastened to the skirt by means of spring hooks and eyes abont halt yard from the hem of the walking skirt The train, wheth- CT loose or fastened on the skirt, requires to be lined with stiff muslin, then covered with silk or satin, as the under side is seen when the skirt is raised. Very full ruchings of lace or muslin are sewed round the hem in- side the frain to keep it spread out. The longest train should never exceed half a yard in length, and good judges are of opin- ion that twelve inches is quite long enough. Trains may be either round or square, ac- cording 10 taste. There is no, absolute rule about them. e.---
 The most becoming wraps for the head af- ter a dance are the large. white or black Spanish lace scarfs. They are made express ly for, this purpose, with pointed eenters, which fit over the head, the drapery hanging freely about the shoulders. Perhaps equally becoming and far less expensive are the sclouds' or white or light colored zenhyr, which can be readily made at home, either in one long straight piece or in three eorneysd style, one corner being caught up in pleats, and decorated with bow of ribbon at the top drawn in at the back of the4neck, and fnished of with handsome ribbons to tie at the front. White zephyr, loosely worked and intermixed with colored embroidered silk, has the prettiest effect Tasseis for the corners can be made by combing out the -zeph2rs into cloudy confusion. and tying it round with the embroidery silk, or with fine cord to match it in color. Clouds of alter nate stripes of white and colered zephyrs are also appropriates crimson or orange and white being specially becoming for brunettes, and pink or blue and white for blondes.
 Dresses that can be adapted for evening or morning wear are always desirable for those to whom the expense of dressing well is an important eonsideration. In order to be ca nable of such adaptation the bodice must be cut square or oval, and either filled in with Ioosa silk habit shirt or reversed with plas iron tackled on over the upper partially re- moving the plastron OF habit shirt the dress becomes an open one, to be sbordered with thinning OF filled in with tulle.. As to the sleeves they can be made to change by sgari- ous methods. By adding puff to the top of the arm the sleeve can be madegAo fasten