Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-09-05
MEMPHIS LADY ABROAD.
Experiences in Amsterdam, Cologne,
Dusseldorf, Up the Rhine, Etc.
Charming RecOIleciiOus Written
up from PnFts.
HOTEL ST.. PETERSBURG, PARIS, /
AUGUST ID. 1883.


structed on foundati ms Of piles, which
gave rise to the Jest Of "Ersmus," that
be kne Y q city Whose inhabitants dwelt
on the tops Of trees like rooks. The
cost Of the works connected With the
bridges, canal and dy kes is estimated
at several thousand forms per day.
The safety OF the city depends on the
security OF these works, any defects in
which would expose Amsterdam to the
risk VI being laid many feet under
water. The Palace, erected att cost Of
eight millions FORMS, is the finest edi>
fcoi in Amsterdam. Our guide thought
to increase u good opinion OF him by
proving that he was James Gordon
Benefits interpreter, a single proof
OF which vas an antique watch guard
presented by j. 6. Bennett, that he
wore with all the pride Of a Roths'
child. We we're driven to all OF the
squares, monuments, churches, the
exchange" a handsome structure
resting on 1869 piles, museums, art
galleries and charitable institutions
for which Amsterdam is celebrated,
thence to the Exposition building,
On q whole it is not unlike our insti-
tutlons Of the same order in the States.
Perhaps it was more elaborate in style
of architecture, but in passing through
the exhibitions from various ccun-
tries, there was buc little Of conse
quehce that you would not 6ud at the
Cincinnati Exposition. 10 fine arts
AID diamonds IT outrivsled ours. De-
lightful strains Of music came Coating
through the corridors and avenues
from every direction. l asked per-
mission Of our party to spend the rest
OF the day in the piano department, so
they left me in the Brussels pavilion,
where | found the finest pianos, beau
tifully framed in ebony, and the OK
quisito hand carving 90 these instru
ments surpassed anything | have yet
seen. The legs were set in cups OF
glass, producing q metallic ring, which
added greatly TO the soft, mellJw
tones Of the instrument. By means
Of many gestures | was enabled to get
consider bic information, unsteady,
from the exhibition. Madam Brocg,
OF Paris, gave a piano recital 10 this
department. She played a charming
programme in a most heathenish man
ner. No l, "Beethoven's sonata pa,
thetique, "groaned under her touch and
breathlessly l awaited the seceud
movement, with its theme so grandly
beautiful which, to hear well played.
invariably makes me weep. studied
her lace to see if her counteuanot
frightened at this change; but no, she
was cold and indifferent to the patho'
and sentiment so richly marked by the
author. In this manner she finished
this movement to play the third even
more horribly. She seemed to have a
pride in displaying her delicately en-.
oased foot, as sue pressed the pedal
with all the frmness Of q man, never
caring how the constant roaring might
Affect her listeners. When she had
finished | silently retire tied to the
concert pavilion, where the famous
Berlin band was discoursiug such mu-
10 as | had never heard before. Ii
tairly took my breAth,so perfectly soul
i spring was it.
Later in the day | visited the Arts
Garden for the purpose Of hearing
Sonneham's band OF 100 performers.
The FIRST selection was the Palm
Branches which, from old associa.
tons, carried me at noe back 70
Memphis. Il was rendered in d grand
style. First in a song form, and then
the theme with variations, followed BY
q canon or figure in strict imitation
Such perfect trilling, in double thirds
or two counts, was never heard before.
I'm sure Feeling quite satisfied with
the treats afforded US We retraced
our steps to the Hotel des Page
Bas, whsre, after q nights rest.
we were soon on our way to Cologne.
via Dusseldorf, the city famous for its
art school, and many oil the dis.in
guished masters are living here at this
date. Hastily we moved Oh to 90
logne. the largest town in the Rhenish
province Of Prussia. IL is surrounded
with a girdle Of Notifications, which.
With its grand towers, presents an IN.
posing appearance as you approach /,
by STEAMBOAT on the Rhine. 1t would
consume too much space TO 70 back IN
history to the time when Cologne was
founded by the Ubii, SO | will only
m~entionthe pri loip4l attractions. The
cathedral, nuseuA, churches of st.
Csseon. st. Ursula, st. Maria, and
Dridge Of Boots. We speIt three
days here. | visited The re owned
"Oonservatorium Of Music" founded
in 1851. DR.. Hitler, the famous COM
pose, is director. He is quite aged
| think in his 79Ln year. II was about
10 am. when | called at the Oonstrga-
torium. Tie Doctor being at that
time engaged, made an appointment
With me for 3 pm. on the same day,
a. his private residence on Frederiehe
s~trasse. AS q matter Of course | was
very prompt, and at 3 sharp the Doctor
admitted me into his studio, where on
all sides we're volumes of music, and
taking the wholein at a single glance.
| took q seat at the Doctors desk,
where through a window l could see
the beautiful Rhine, aud soon We we're
lost in earnest conversation unsteady
He asked me to play for him and at
once | played my own imp~rovisations,
which to play for such a renowned
personaee made me tremble, but az er
| had finished several numbers my
composure was restored, and he ap
plauded me in q manner that brought
tears to my eyes, and thus We alter
nately chatted aud played for thre,
hours. | gave him a brief history Of
my school, and the course Of study
adopted, which was the same as bis
Or. Killers Conservatorium of Music
has numbered among its directors
some Of the most talented musicians
Of Germany. | gave him a brilliant
description Of the Mozart Society Of
Memphis, and its grand festival oflast
May. He paid Mr.. Rambaut and Inc
heads oil the Society a score Of COM
pliments, and as | was leaving he gave
me q likeness Of himself, with his sig
nature, begging me 10 call again be
ore leaving, also to write
him with respect to the success Of my
labors during the coming year. To be
brief, l made a hasty survey OF the
Ramona cathedral tbo .b,.aL q.