Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-09-08
more than the merely mechanical sense, though,

possesses artistic character which means that il
speaks for itself naturally, and says no more
than 1t means. The stage, as one form of art,
ought 10 preserve to us our ideals. or furnish
them II they are lost. It is not exclusively q
trade or means Of making money Constantly
before the public, actors and actresses should
De stimulated to be always at their best, and
women have the double opportunity of supple
menting the mimic art with the art of dress,
and of showing other women what can be done
in the way Of making it medium OF varied ex-
preston
English women It has been thought
could teach American women nothing In regard
10 dress. Nor can they, so far as the conven-
t'onallsm OF fashion Is concerned, or the fire.
quent changes, of which they care little; but
they are much more courageous and truthful in
following out an idea or presenting a type and
can, therefore. teach us much in regard to the
expression of character through the medium Of
dress, either on or off the stage.
costume photograph of an English actress
lately attracted universal attention in o Broad
way window from the free expressive carriage
| OF the stately figure, whose dress OF white bro
caded satin was covered with long black cloak
OF figured plush clasped at the throat and held
open by the arm in motion. The cape turned a
little back and the whole action of the figure
Its beauty and simple elegance suggesting
Dorothy Vernon as she opened the door upon
the ''pleasaunce" at Haddon Hall, when she es-
caped from her home to marry her lover, Lord
John Manners. 1t is not probable that this was
just what was meant; but this or something
AKIN was what was suggested, and 1t is some
thing to suggest character and a story by q
dress, mantle or turn of the head. a move
ment OF the arm and glimpse of a foot en-
bodied simultaneously In photograph.
There will be great deal of costume and
character studying during the coming winter.
for society is distressed at being considered
name, and 1t wants to get up reputation for
Ideas. 1t will therefore ransack libraries and
Investigate the poets for materials to work upon.
But 1t takes brains to properly use brains and
II all the fools that fall into the clutches of
clety are as completely denuded of the beauty
and very essence of their thought as some that
gain to art in any direction will not be great.
MODERN NECESSITY.
In the meantime there are ladies whom the
question of dress does not greatly disturb, who
order their annual walking dress of wool, visit
ing dress of velvet. and dinner or evening dress
OF satin or brOcade, without troubling them
selves about minor changes, leaving all that to
be settled by competent dressmaker. But
there is one costume which has come to DO con-
sldered OF the first Importance. It is the short
or walking dress for day receptions. Afternoon
teas" In the season are now more frequent than
evening parties. and the short dress is recog-
Dized as more suitable than train, as it is inf
nitely more convenient and comfortable. But
the dress must be handsome and completed by
bonnet, and the bonnet must bear it's proper
relation to the dress; and as these conditions are
permanent it follows that there must be CORE
spending continuance of essential qualities in
the dress ITSELF An obvious costume for this
purpose is of velvet throughout, or velvet COM
bined with satin plain or brocaded or satin
plain and satin brOcaded in combination. There
Is an objection to fur as too warm-and to plush
as too heavy, and to both as effected injuriOusly
by heated air. Ladies who do not walk. who
possess carriages of their own. rarely wear cos
tunes on these occasions They prefer dinner
toilet walking length, which can be covered
and protected during the drive by fur-lined
wrap. 1t is cooler looking and more at home in
drawing room.
Very suitable dresses for dinners or receptions
are made of satin duchesse with pleated fronts
and broad trimming OF Irish point, turned over
fiat and extending around the neck and down the
sides OF the dress, which is edged at the bottom
with three narrow knife pleatings. The trim
ming also forms cuffs for the sleeves. Another
method of arranging the same design ia to cut
the edges out in lanceolated leaves and put
pleatings of lace under them. or course any
lady could cover such q toilet with wrap and
wear 1t for walking as we'll as riding; but it
would be less suitable for such purpose. and
less generally useful than a complete dress that
may be utilized for theater parties, calling or
other purposes.
ODDS AND ENDS.
Brocades for evening wear are magnificent.
The patterns are large and combine ottoman
and armure effects with satin and raised lines
that look like embroidery stitch. The skirts of
such as have been made at this early date are
long and looped at the side over petticoats of
Ottoman Muscovite satin. This latter fabric is
thick, close, ana resembles ductesse, except that
the loop is shorter. and it is therefore we'll
adapted to combinations and for trimmings be-
cause it Is not liable to FRAY.
Half low bodies and short sleeves have disap-
peared, and for young girls charming at home
dresses are made of French gray wool, with
square necks, trimmed with black velvet and
filled in with white muslin and sleeves pulled
over the elbOw-a sort of Marguerite" dress
which is simple, graceful, and universally be-
coming.
Cloaks are to be long, and high on the shoul-
der. with q modification Of the dolman sleeve
Muscovite satin Ii a. with plush, is very nand-
some, but the bl faded velvet will probably
satin.
Quilted silk Is now sold by the yard for the
lining of ordinary clOaks; but more costly styles
must have special Innings.
Ladies returning from abroad bring with them
and exhibit with great pride ''old mas
ters'p hats of black lace, trimmed with mass
Of feathers and jeweled buckle, or other or
nament. The lace is real thread, and falls over
the brim, which is slightly bent. The crown is
rather high.
The young ladies wear flexible felt ventilated
hats. soft and very light in weight, the perfOra-
tons made, not in the crown, but under the
colors. JENNY JUNE.
English Ladies' At the Races.
~