Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-06-04

, drawn TO the front of each arm hole and fas
tened with bows of ribbon, matching in forr
huge bow which holds the drapeTv at tn
: SIDE or the skirt in the same position Tn
bodice is perfectly plain and the effect iusti
mes remark several times made in these let
ters, and principle often insisted upon tina
1t Is the sleeves which give character and dis
junction to dress, and that trimming upOl
SKIRT or bodice can never remedy the defect O
nat or commonplace sleeve. Three inche
Is the length upon fashionable shoulder an,
twenty y-tve the length of the bodice from tn
throat to the tip of the point after il is made
but the sides are followed in nearly to tn
waist line, and instead of paniers the spac,
over the hips Is filled in with flounces of lace
very rich brocades, yelvets, satins, anC
molres are not cut up into flounces for tn,
lower part OF the skirt. The trimming con.
slsts OF drapery upon the upper part, usually
arranged high and fastened at the side Soft
materials, such as surahs, fine wOols pongees
musllns, lawns, glnghams linens. and the
like, are put into fOunces and soft sagrino
puf1s, not very full and often supplemented
by deep ruffs of oriental or imitation Mechlm
| lace.
Plain nuns veilings are Killed and striped
| with velvet or satin ribbon, to initiate the new
| satin or velvet striped nuns -veilings, which
are very scarce, and in which the pleats are
always laid so that only the stripe shows.
| these SOFT materials are made up with shirred
| ana belted waists open in front and trimmed
| with laces, one row standing, the other LAYING
down, and, if for full figure, crossed over in
The Jersey basque has extended into the
| Jersey tunic with short overskirt drapery
instead OF the folds laid over the hips scarf
! wise, as formerly. The ulster has fullness
massed at the back of the skirt, and lifted into
/ graceful drapery by the aid of large buckle,
| giving the effect of suit; and the latest polo
! naise is coat open in front with a vest with
! SIDE panels; bOutfant drapery. and deep
| point at the back which hooks down upon the
skirt and and separates the billowy masses
| without creating an absolute depression.
! A WIDOWS TROUssEAU.
| In recent letter'I described some dresses
made Tor widow of thirty who was about to
| enter the matrimonial estate a second time
| Early in June wedding is to be celebrated
Ior @ which comparatively young and clever
! firm of dressmakers in Thirty fourth street
| is now engaged in making trousseau that in
| some respects surpasses any that has been
| here, and is also for a lady who has been once
married but remains a beauty, though she
| has reached her thirty-fifth YEAR Charged
| with the support and education of a son, vet
\ MAINTAINING her position and her hold upon
all tat she valued by her courage and her
end ~ ments she deserves her happiness in
having won man distinguished by nature
and fortune whose pleasure in the latter is
principally in sharing it.
Inc feature OF the trOusSeau was its Origi-
nality. The principal dresses were the bridal
robe of thick cream white satin, pale blue
more antique, black velvet embroidered
with gold, a dark green velvet combined with
satin, a wine cOlOred velvet and cloth trimmed
with gold braid, pink satin surah, a black
satin and real thread lace, white cashmere
combined with satin, lOuisine shot travelling
dress, two white India muslins trimmed with
Mechlln (mOrning dresses), two cashmere
wrappers Zone pink, the other pale blue, two
india muslin wrappers prOfusey trimmed
with lace; and silk hose in half dozens, shoes,
parasols, fans, hats or bOnnets TO fit, match
every dress.
TO describe in detail would be impossible.
yet 1t Is difficult to resist the temptation to do
SO. The features in the design of the finest
dresses, both trained and unframed, were the
sleeves which displayed an immense triple
pun lald IN pIalts around the arm hole and
drawn towards the front of the arm under a
bow corresponding to one many times its size
which held the high drapery III a similar waV
at the left of the skirt OF course they were
set very high upon the shoulder, leaving only
about three inches between them and the
band at the throat, which was laid in fine folds
and supported a very thick outstanding run
OF delicate pleated crepe lisse and lace. The
bodice In every case was perfectly plain
with points front and back, very strongly
accentuated and at the back hooked down
upon the drapery, which was made very bOuf-
fant. The hollowS upon the hips in the case
of the pink surrah were filed in with deep
falls OF oriental lace, which also covered the
soft pulls of the skirt. The black satin also
displayed magnificent hip fluonces of genuine
thread lace. matching in pattern the lace
drapery of the skirt, but otherwise the bOdices
were plain and offered admirable examples
of a fact which has been frequently stated
that 1t Is characteristic sleeve which gives
distinction to a dress.
The wine colored costume is intended for
Il
velvet skirt and coat pofonaise- se-uf' ff1e cloth
matching in color. but trimmed with fiat tabs
or tongues of gold braid surrounded by a mar
row doubled fold of finer braid which forms
a raised edge This surrounds the fiat collar
and pockets, and forms border to the front
of the coat, which is cut away from the gold
embroidered front of the skirt. The effect
at the throat and upon the sleeves is al
most that of solid gold, and nothing is permit
tedi the way of lace rufiing or white collar
above or below. Several gold bangle bracelets
complete the effect at the wrists, and a gold
dog collar clasps the throat. The hat for this
dress is of flexible and fine wine cOlored felt
very large; the trimming wholly wine colOred
plumes. The brim Is faced with a net work
of Wine colored plumes. chenille edged with
gold braid.
The only thin dress, except white muslin, is
one of ecru nuns yelling striped with satin
the founcing killed so that only the satin
shows, and the bodice made entirely of satin
This was the only dress cut square, end the
space was partly filed by folded handker-
chief of silk null matching in color. The
trimming was ecru silk lace.
The morning dresses of India muslin were
the only ones made with flonnces. They had
also full belted waists sherred. straight
the fiOunces, The Qthers-that is, those of
satin, velvet and mOire-had short or long
skirts finished with thick ruchings or pleat-
ings, exterior and interior, and high drapery
or long pleated trains with draped or panel
led sides; but no founces. The white cash
mere was a princesse dress with a pIeated
DdSQuc DdCk, ABOVE Il very gracefully uraDeu
skirt The lower part of the front was of
white satin, covered with narrow ruilies of
Mechlin lace; above was round, sagging
puff of cashmere, and at the sides panels Of
white satin. The travelling dress was of pin
checked lOuisine shot with violet red and old |
gold. These cOlOrs were repeated in the
triple piping. which edged the pOlonaise,
long, stylish coat with wide side panels emf !
away from the front of the skirt. A pointed
vest and deep pointed back, fastened down |
upon the drapery: A small bonnet of silk, !
covered with a wide iah2t of cream lace, and
encircled by wreath of wood violets, was |
made to accompany this dress,
The trained dress of black satin and mag
nificent thread lace previously mentioned was
crushed roses; and for wear with this dress |
and its roses there was a superb circular fan
of pink ostrich feathers, with roses i'm tho
centre. To make it all black the roses are re- |
moved and an immense bow, composed of
loops OF satin ribbon, takes the place, and a
fan of black feathers the place Of the pink
one, so thai two toilets are obtained.
Among the hats were two enormous ones |
one all white; one all black-both trimmed |
with ostrich feathers only. Garden hats
wholly of shirred India muslin accompanied
the morning dresses, and were trimmed with
white lace and lilies of the valley. One of
the parasols was ail black; another was all |
cream; Roth were trimmed with Spanish
thread lace. third was Of strawberry, red
with strawberry lining and lace to match.
The hosiery was pure silk in solid cOlOrs.
The gloves, IN dozens, were very long, in Bern
hardt styles, but OF plain dressed or un-
dressed kid. The underwear was of the finest
French batiste, eXquisitely made and trimmed
with quantities of tucking, fine as hairs
almost, and masses of lovely valenoiennes or
tOrchOn lace. One of the giftg sent by the
bridegroom to be wss d beautiful back comb, |
copied from aB historic design in solid |
eighteen karat gold.
GRADUATING DRESSES.
The subject of graduating dresses begins to |
agitate the minds of the young women who |
in few weeks are to bid farewell to the high
schools and colleges which Represents their |
alma mater. a great deal has been said for |
and against graduating dresses, but the. girls !
themselves are in favor of them, and as thev |
must wear something upon such an occasion. |
and it is desirable that that something should
have fresh, unfform and attractive appear
ance, there seems to be no good reason why it
should not be a white material or something
that Will preserve an equal similarity not
withstanding difference in cost. If a class of
girls is nearly equal in position and financial
resources 1t can carry out one al several
ideas.
For example, one moi tar rrom New York
has decided tina. each girl shall employ the
tint of q fayGrite flower, and wear a bunch of
tAe flowers in her belt. AnOther.cIass will
wear the flower, but the dress will be of white
muslin, lace trimmed.
There Is nothing prettier or IaOre becoming
for such an occasion than plain India muslin
(the tint being much softer than Swiss), as fine
as possible, cut walking length; the skirt
trimmed with two knfe-pleated 1QEnces; a
short apron shirred and trimmed with lace:
and short drapery at the back. The bodice
should be a surplice, or open shaped ami
gathered into belt; the sleeves full or plain,
as preferred, but extending over the elbow
and finished with lace, The ribbon
belt or sash may be white or c0lOred to
suit individual tastes. 1t Is better, however.
70 choose a tint rather than decided color !
for other dress or accessories, as high color |
shocks by contrast where number Of white |
figures or delicate tints are massed together
A charming effect might be produced By al