The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1883-10-26
Iluperted (,I.th suit.,


Imported cloth dresses are far more
richly trimmed than those made here,
snd are less severe in style. The French
.ailor directs his efforts toward getting
rid of the voluminous looped drapery
which Is both Ineffective and weighty
in cloth, yet at the same time he pro.
luces bOuffant tOurnure. He also
employs velvet for combinations. and
lses embossed plush, passementerie
5raiding, fourageres. and fur borders
for trimming, where the New York tail
DR. depends entirely upon stitching and
cord or braided edges for simple and
neat finish. Moss green cloths with OF
Ter fur borders, blue-gray cloth with
velvet revers and applique flowers, and
blue cloths braided with blue sontache
that has some red or some gilt braid
mingled with it, are among the newest
importations. When pelisse is used
as the over-dress for cloth suit, it is
long enough to nearly conceal the low.
er skirt, which is made lighter by being
of foundation silk. with only a plating
of cloth set on in a narrow row all
around the foot. with deeper plating
for showing at any place on the side OF
back where the pelisse is shortened OF
left open. The favorite style for these
pelisses has the waist opening in curve
from the throat to the left side on the
hips, leaving point or a smooth space
in the middle of the corsage front, and
forming below this a draped apron
which may be pointed. rounded OF
square-cornered. A surplice revers of
velvet, or row of braiding, or 8
border of fur, is the suitable trimming
for such a garment. >
When fur borders are used on cloth
pelisses. they are placed upon one OF
both sides of the middle of the back,
which is left open, but are not across
the foot in the back; if there is an apron
front, the fur is across the foot, but il
the garment is open and straight be.
low the waist, the fur extends from the
waist down to the foot, but does not
border on the lower edge. There are
large diamond-shaped passementerie
ornaments that are placed beside a
border of fur or of braiding. and these
promise to take the place of the plaques
or disks of cord that were used last
year. Another fancy is that Of cutting
out the large flowers, leaves or fruits
that form the designs of embossed
plush, and placing one of these near the
foot of each plat on the cloth skirt, OF
in row down each side, also on the
sleeves, and along the middle of the
front of vest or Of plated corsage.
One of the handsomest Partisan suits OF
blue-gray cloth has large plush rose
and leaves in shades of gray applied on
each plat of the skirt and over-skirt,
This unique dress has a plated skirt
formed Of four broad plaits
meeting in front, and wider box
plaits behind; the upper skirt is
formed entirely of straight side
plaits. and is rather short behind, but
falls open in front in two points. dis
closing the plaits of the skirt beneath,
and there are velvet revers down the
open fronts. The position basque has
the front dOuble-breasted, with pointed
velvet revers tapering to the waist, and
a row of the plUA- roses between the
revers. Small fiat blue steel buttons
are set along the revers, but the corsage
is fastened under the double breasted
part by hooks and eyes. As we have
said before, buttons are not conspicuous
On the new dresses, and most of them
return to the old-fashioned hooks and
eyes, or else they have lacing, or loops
Of velvet, or straps, or other capricious
mode of fastening. Still another new
fancy for cloth dresses is that of making
The front of the garment in princesse
shape. with the upper part outlining
vest. and this vest is usually of a con-
trasting color, either led, white. OF
golden brown, while there are also
what are called Vatican vests, made OF
the cloth of the front breadth extended
upward from the skirt to the neck, and
dropping softly below the waist, or else
at the throat and waist-line by
clasps of silver, steel, or pearl. or else
by velvet straps and kles.-Harper's
Bazaar.