Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-04-28
Snail.Farllling.

From the ST. James Gazette.
Much as we have been GaciZed by French
plays, French music, French fashion Ia dress,
and above all by French cookery, we have not
yet carried imitation of our Continental neigh
bors SO far as to allow the snail a place on our
table. Englishmen who have rOamed the Con-
tinent half their lives, who have grown 30 I'M
patriotic as to plume themselves upon having
got rid Of all ''nsular prejudices and who are
prepared to admit that dish of frogs legs is de-
licious, are rarely able to conquer the feeling of
aversion with which the first sight of a boiled
snail inspired them. 1t would be incorrect to
say thay these creatures are never eaten in Eng
land, for annual festivals known as '.snail
feasts" are well known in the north. and in all
parts of the country there is a popular notion
that snalls are excellent diet for consumptive
people; but those who indulge the taste form 80
small minority of the population that the eat
Ing OF snails may be fairly described as repug-
nant to the national feeling. We have, however.
only to cross the Straits of Dover to find the
snail recognized as little inferior to the OYSTER:
While his marine cousin, the perwinkle.
so much eaten in England by the working
classes, Is rarely seen in the inland
towns of France. In that country all
kinds of snails are considered edible; but 1t ia
the large variety-generally known as the Bur-
gundy snail. although they are to be found all
over southern EurOpe-on which the highest
price Is Set. These are the kind which every
visitor to Paris has seen in wineshOp windows
and which he has probably seen a near neighbor
at a restaurant devourng with serene uncon-
seriousness OF spelling anOther's appetite Bur-
gundy snails are nearly double the size of the
common garden variety, and the color of the
shells is much lighter They are frequently
called escdryOts de rigae on the supposltiOn that
they live on vine leaves. This notion is only
partly correct. The vineyards of the South are
their natural home; but since snail-farmng be-
came lucrative business in France the much
priced escd'gots have not been allowed to have
their own way in this matter
1t is in Burgundy, and especially in the de-
partment of the Aude, that snail-raisng is car
ried to perfection. The system employed is as
follows: The snails are collected from the vines
toward the end OF summer. and are then placed
IN enclosures dignfed by the name of parks"
to fatten Oh thyme, peppermint and other herbs
which experience has proved to be most suita,
bic. damp and shady nook is selected for the
PARK, and the prisoners are kept within
bounds ny the simple continuance of sawdust
and bramblcs This does very well in dry
weather, but when 1t rains the farmers wife
and children must be constantly on the alert to
turn back the runaways. The fatteninr pro-
cess goes on until the approach of winter
when tufts OF moss and bundles of dry leaves
are thrown into the park. Into these tie
snails creep. and then, to increase their COM
tort. proceed to seal themselves upin their shells.
In the case OF Burgundy snails, the sealing SUBJ
stance exuded forms thick calcareOus ernst
When the creatures have completed their ar
engagements for alternating ia inst the timo
when they are considered in prime condition for
the table The full-grown ones are then used
as they are wanted for the market the yOuno
ones being left to swell the next wears cron
Nature having furnished snails with extraordi-
nary powers Of reproduction, each individual
being both male and female. and the OUTLAY in
snail-farming being represented only by the time
and trouble spent in collecting them and keen
ing them from straying, they must be a source
OF considerable revenue to the small cuAivateurs
OF Burgundy. Large profits must be gained bv
all concerned IN the business, when we consider
that snails when cooked are sold in Paris at
about franc dozen.
About the preparation of snails for the table
mccn might be written. Several methods Of
cooking them are employed in France, but 1t
Will suffice to mention the three principal modes.
These are escdrgOts q la bO,trguiqnonne escnroOks
Ia poutette, and bOuiuon desca,qots. The favor
tie method is Ia bourguignonne In whatever
form tney may appear at table, the preliminary
preparation is the same. There Is a fixed law
that the snail must have tasted considerable
time before 1t is eaten. When the creatures
have entered the alternating state they are
willing enough to fast but at other times
and they are eaten more or less all the wear
rOund-they have to endure prolonged pangs
or hunger as a purifying process before
the serious business of dressing them com
mences The peasants method is to throw salt
upon them. and to put them afterwards into
DOiling water; but the most approved manner
is to boil them at once in salt water and ashes
until they can be drawn from their Shells Sup
posing they are to be cookedd la bourguignonne.
the shells are carefully washed and laid on one
side: Parsley, garlic, chives or eschaotes,
mushrooms and butter are then chopped up to-
gether into paste. A little of this is put into
the empty shell, and the snail, after being
washed, Is restored to its dwelling: and the
opening Is finally filed up with the paste They
are then baked in dish Of white wine for half an
hOllr fiPn oh. 4 lxNI-
this description it will be rightly inferred that to
cook snails Ia 6oWguignonne is no simple mat