Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-09-08

Tree movement All Dress skirts maze OF wool
should be attached to Inning waist, as this
| equalizes both warmth and weight.
AUTUMN WALKING DRESSES.
All the new dresses for autumn street wear
partake more or less of the coat form, with q
walking skirt, which p pleated and trimmed
lengthwise, and so as to preserve its fat
appearance upon the sfront and sides, and q
pulled or draped back. The design is usually
cut away from the front more or less, and some
times forms long double lappels, and sometimes
shows panels inserted between the front and
back OF the skirt where 1t joins the drapery.
This last. however, is only admissible with q
combination eff materials plain and figured, the
latter being used for the coat and front Of the
skirt the rest plain for the rest of the skirt and
the tucked upright panels.
The most fashionable autumn suits are of
plain cloth in fine qualities and beautiful shades
and mixtures of dark red, wine plum. garnet.
mouse gray blue, brown and red copper.
The trimming is principally braid-black or
gOld-and the fastening is executed with small
| stone or solid gold buttons. The most costly
''stOne'' button is the crocO dollte or cats-eye,
every shade of CLOTH and almost every mixture,
| and some that are engraved by genuine artists,
and are each one worthy of being worn as q
gem.
Gold braid is not usually put on continuously,
but in straps of unequal length, pointed at the
Nothing white is worn at the throat or wrists
with these SUITS but round the throat is worn q
dog collar of elastic gold or black velvet, with
gold coins attached, and gold bangles cover the
wrists, or long wrinkled gloves.
Black braid and braided ornaments have &C.
quired great vogue, but the effect is only good
upon the imported suits or with imported trim
mings The reason is that heretofore we have
had no braiding attachment to sewing machines
that could be used by the ordinary operator
wit of yDbi ood fho
value for ornamental purposes. The difficulty
has been partly met by making braided trim
mings in close passementerie designs, as before
remarked, and arranging them SO that they
could be used continuously. in sections, or as
separate ornaments. These are. of course, ex-
pensive If carefully made and of pure material,
and ii not they are not worth using.
''Soiid'' suits consist of a skirt, as we'll as
redingote Of cloth, the front of the former laid
in upright box pIeats and enriched through the
center with rows of chain Draiding, or with
''macaroOns' of braid set closely together SO as
to form q stripe OF any required length. The
redingOte is cut away from this front, and
either forms draperied back or opens to dis
close it, the trimmings being repeated in jacket
or cOllarette form upon the bodice, and some
times upon the sides Of the coat.
THE TRIMMING OF CLOAKs AND JACKETS.
Braiding, however, has never been as perma-
nent or as popular as it might have been, for the
reason that at accessible prices braided gar
ments and costumes have always been more or
less coarse and commonplace, and the skill Of
the sewing machine operator has not suf1iced to
cover her stitcnes or enable her to produce con.
trasted or artistic effects. The absence of these
qualities in homemade productions of this de-
scription has been principally felt in the orna-
mentation and finish Of cloth cloaks and Jackets
These are very readily and effectively trimmed
If the thick narrow Hercules" braid be set up
in knife blade patterns and the double fold braid
arranged in supplementary designs and made
secure without visible fastening. This. it is now
invented a braiding attachment which does the
work perfectly, and though it is too late to
affect the market for this season, it will prob
ably revolutionize the processes of Ornamenting
cloth and braid in the future.
Velvet trimming is to be very fashionable
this season, particularly upon the Atwood
checks and the combinations Of checks with
plain WOOL A new design Of this description ia
dark grey in tone, the ground shade of the
check matching the plain wool. The bodice has
folds of the check which are crossed in front at
the waist line and fastened with velvet strap
or belt from which are suspended velvet straps
that form looping for the close folds Of the
panfer, which, as well as the drapery at the
back, exhibits the plain material. The skirt is
ofthe check, with upright panel Of the plain
upon the front, laid in straight folds ard alter
mating with broad box pleats of the check. The
sleeves. as well as the bodice. are of the checked
material, but there is plain tucked vest of the
plain, which Is finished at the throat with
band and bow Of velvet and an upright pleat-
ing of the plain wool. inside of which is one of
pleated muslin. This, from one of the best
houses. Is an indication that velvet will be used
largely in the composition or for the ornamental
ton of wooden costumes, and that the restOra-
ton of velvet, the most beautiful and becoming
of all fabrics. is considered established.
One of the graceful new designs in costumes
new not in the sense Of novelty, but of the sea-
son-consists of a very dark plum-colOred over
dress, lOOped high at the sides and Ornamented
with brandebourgs down the entire front. over a
skirt formed of fine double killings fastened only
part of the way down and having ladder Of
heavy cords knotted over them at one side and
cord and tassel like bell-rope upon the other.
new tweed walking cloak or ulster is made
with plated back and epauletted cape. Hoods
est cOl0rs.
REAL LOSS TO WOMAN.
Ladies who had an experience with the CO.
operative enterprise during it's brief but pleas
ant career will begin to realize their loss now
that the approach OF the cold season demands
warm clothing. In three respects it offered to
them advantages they never had before so Ger
tainly or to the same extent. One of these was
In the varied supply Of wel-cut and "tailor-
made" costumes at moderate prices; another
was in the practical character Of the cloak and
OUTSIDE garments winch are always one OF the
most disturbing problems in the whole range Of
the wardrobe, and a third the convenient read
ing and reception room which no dry goods
house in New York can now afford it's custom
ers Lord Taylor instituted one once, and
discontinued it; Mr.. Stewart started one just
before his death, but made a showroom Of it;
but not single house in New York does for
it's customers what White and Jordan. Marsh
& Company, of Boston, do for theirs,
viz: provide beautifully fitted suite of rooms
with attendants, baggage-room, writing facili-
ties, balcony views and every convenience and
requisite for making time pass agreeably, or for
ladies living out of town. Doubtless it is more
of a necessity in Boston, where ladies live so
much more in the suburbs than in New York;
still there are sufficient number, one would
think to whom such facilities would be boon
to make it an object for some large dry goods
house to supply them.
Well made cloth suits are at all times inacces-
sible to the majority on account of their cost.
When strictly made and finished they are either
imported or supplied by some tailor dress
maker at as high rates as the imported, and
there is the complaint in the latter case that the
cut Is too rigid, and that no regard is paid to
fashion.
THE STAGE Az AN EXAMPLE.
Stage dressing exercises an enormous infiu-