Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-07-24
TheFashiOus.


with wide torchon lace, make pretty
morning dresses for the country.
Shoulder capes matched to the dress
and finished with rufiie of Oriental
or other fancy lace are much worn
this summer.
"Tel-el- Kebir" is new cloth for
costumes, much resembling aIbatross
cloth, only very much thicker. 1t
comes in MONOCHROME patterns, and also
in brocsdes, some of which are very
gorgeous.
White brocaded satins for wedding
dresses show new designs of lilac
blossoms, pond lilies and tinted stems,
humming birds, fern fronds, primroses
and sheaves of wheat in white silk.
Some Of the most expensive patterns
are outlined with cut crystals and fRe
pearl beads.
A novel and dressy bodice for even.
ing wear consists OF a short zouavO
jacket Of tinted silk OF satin, under
meath which is worn a dainty waist
coat made of tulle or Persian null
laid in softest folds ever the shoulders
and narrowing at the belt. From
here the folds flow loosely and strap
around the hips, to be caught up with
the drapingS Of the dress skirt in the
back, forming light paniers underneath
the edges OF the zouave, which only
reach to the waist.
A lawn tennis costume lately worn
at an afternoon fete up the Hudson.
was made Of soft gray merveilleuX
embroidered across the front with
scarlet peoples and blush roses and
foliage. The hat was unique, being
Of gray satin braid with a pointed
crown and a round fat brim, upon
which were hand painted scarlet pop
pies and moss buds. A second very
beautiful dress was of delicate violet
yelling, with a trimming of palest
pink wild roses in applique. The hat
worn with this costume was a broad
fat with a Tapping brim, crowned
with a long trailing wreath of wild
roses.
The Watteau wrappers, which have
come into such fashion again, are ex
ceedingly becoming to tall, slender
women, and stand next in popularity
and comfort to the more dressy tea
gown and Grecian house robe. These
wrappers are made principally of foul
ard, India silk, and summer cashmere;
and for exceedingly warm mornings
are shown very cool, airy looking gar
ments, made OF lilac, pale pink, or
pure white lawn, or of French cam
| brio, trimmed with yards of lace and
ribbon. For very young ladies are
wrappers of sateen in gay foulard de-
signs, trimmed with Irish point lace
or killings of the plain satin, edged
with narrow Valenciennes.
| That mysterious article of the toilet
known seVerally as the todrnure, the
crinolette, or the hustle, has once
again asserted itself and is now ac-
| knowledsed as indispensable to a corS
rect toilet. 1t appears in various
shapes and dimensions, each style o.
dress having its own special tournure,
large or small, narrow OF
broad. long or short, to suit the light
or heavy, short or trained dress with
which tits worn. These are now made
Of many different tissues, including
Farmers satin, merveilleux, act, white
ginghsm or cambria, elastic cloth, hail
cloth and grass linen. Some of the
latest styles have Louis Seize paniert
continued over the hips, but these are
, not generally worn, and are prepared
to order only. There is also the skirt
, With the Andalusian tournure trim
med around the edge Yith founce Of
: starohed muslin, that can be removed
at pleasure.
For dinner and o'clock teas, and
for general wear In the country or al
J the seashore, white dresses are in great
demand. Many are made of embroi
dered French or India null, but there
seems to be general preference for
nuns yelling, silk mgslias, French
barege and Algerian silk gauze, while
Gauze de Chsmbery always remains
among the most fashionable of trans
parent tissues. Cream and snow
krop white are the tiuts pre-
ferred, and lage 10 match is
profusely used as garnitgre, In some
models, however, Grecian draperies
are adopted, to the exclusion of any
extra trimmings, and the eject Is
very chaste and beautiful, Sometimes
the white dress is made up over pale
blue, pink, or mauve foulard or taffe
tas, and trimmed with ribbons to cor
respond; but the perfectly white toilet,
with yhits satin sash aud ribbons, IS
considered in more perfect taste, only
relieved by the bouquet of bright
flowers placed among the lace trim
miDgs OF the bodice.
Many of the serge costumes for the
seaside and mountains are deliberately
braided in cardinal, black or blUs.
These suits are maSe with jackets
which Ut like jersey, and very FREE
quently they are cut away in front,
revealing a waistcoat of white repped
silk with braided Zap pockets et
the side Blue serge trimAsd with
many rows Of yhi,e braid, Although
so lOag popular, is still consid
cred very chic. One quite popular
dress is a white serge skirt Killed
from belt to toe, and over this New
market jacket cut double breasted,
and fastened with Roman pearl but,
tons. 4rom the back skirts of ths
Newmarket come light folds Of the
serge which tall over tho skirt. An,
other style Is "A cream white serge,
having the plain skirt finished with q
deep ruching around the bottom. The
full apron tunic is'raised very high on
the left side with a mass Of satin rib
bon loops, 4 sh5rt, jaunty shooting
liGceet, hitting like a glove, is worn
with a Petersham belt of satin. fss.,
\ enad NTH a cilkar byoLI 10y