Morning journal and courier., 1883-04-17
Perfumes in Pomade.
Run Through the Custom House tn Bull and Extracted Afterward.
 1Ernrn fha Nanz Ynrlrs Snn l

| Run Through the Custom House fn RuIk | and Extracted Afterward. | From the New York Sum-
 'tMore Perfumes and essential oils come | to this market from across the big pond than l the Custom House people have any idea of
 It is for this reason that really good per. I fumes and essences can often be bought | very low"
 | The speaker was a gentleman connected
 with large general importing house of this | city.
 Are they smuggIed in ?" was asked. ''Oh, no. They pass through the Custom
 House, but in what might be called a quiet
 way. They are there. but are not seen, and when they are known to be present nothing can be done. Uncle Sam has to bear it.
 ''You don't mean to say that, knowing that perfume is passing through their hands, the Custom Houre officials do not enforce the payment of the proper duties?"
 That is exactly what I do mean. You know high duties are imposed on all perfum- cay which is imported here from outside countries, and to get perfume in free is an item of some importance. There are also duties on pomade and similar compounds which run in under the head of scented greases. This grease is appraised in bulk, regardless of the amount of extract or per fume used to scent it. It is often more strongly scented than is necessary for it's use as pomade."
 What has that to do with evading duties on perfume ?'
 ''Everything Beef marrow strongly satu. rated with perfumes is imported as scented grease, and is so appraised. Later the sur plus perfume is extracted and the grease is sold as pomade. Sometimes, when the mar row is much refined, it is put up in neat bottles. but generally it is disposed of by the pound to barbers and head dressers"
 ''How is the perfume separated from the grease ?"
 ''Very readily. Deedorized alcohol is poured on the grease, and gentle heat is applied. The perfume leaves the grease aAd goes over to the alcohol, which is poured off. It is then very easy matter to dilute or concentrate the perfume. One of the best methods of obtaining perfumes is by the use of grease. The process is called maceratien. The best fat employed is marrow, which Is melted in 8 water bath and strained. While it is still warm the flowers are thrown in and left to digest for several hours. They are then taken out and fresh ones are placed in the grease. This is continued for several days. The grease and perfume are then separated by the use of alcohol. Beef mar row is not the only substance used in extract ing the oders from the flowers Inodorous oils are a1o used especially refined olive oil, which is more extensively employed in the south of Europe. The process used for deli cate plants, such as jasmine, tuberose and cassia, which will not allow the use of heat is on the principle of absorption. layer of purified lard and such mixture is spread on the glass bottom of a square wooden box, and upon this freshly gathered flowers are spread every morning as leng as the flower is in bloom. The boxes are kept shut, and the grease soon acquires a very strong odor. In oil, instead of glass bottoms to the boxes wire ones are used, upon which clothes soaked in oil are laid, and the boxes or frames are piled upon each other to keep them close. After the oil-soaked clothes are sufficiently charged with the perfume, they are placed in press, and the oil is squeezed out"
 ''Is there not some way by which this method of bringing in perfumes through the l Custom House may be stopped ?'
 ''I think not. A jar of scented grease, I with two ounces of perfume mixed through l t has about the same smell as if there were | hree ounces. Then standard to determine | low much perfume scented grease should | contain wonld have to be made. The diff ulties would not end there. Chemical tests would have to be used to see if the grease vas scented according to the standard. and very pot of pomade and bottle of hair oil would have to be opened before passing from he Custom House. No; it is next to in- possible to remedy the matter"