The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1883-05-03

a long period of reciprocal persuasions follow
at last, a compromise is effected, and twelve
francs-the guide-book price-agreed to. The
Marina is at the head of q crooked and steep
stone pathway leading down to the sea. On
the way down you meet q woman carrying up
long, heavy bar of iron, and men with heavy
pieces of furniture, landed at the wharf below,
and mounted in this primitive way to the level
OF the hotel and pension town ON the cliff.
COURAGE, MACARoNr AND CHEESE
Then the padrone brings up roomy boat and
four, sturdy oarsmen and sail OF two hours
and q half follows, eked out by steady pulling
ON the part of the men. 1t is heavy work, for
the wind gives little help, and the sea is not
perfectly smooth; but there is no tagging. and
cheerful voice calls out from time to time
"Coraggio coTaggio, macaToni G forInaggiO,"
which is always received with laugh, and
sometimes with a slight squirt. This rather
inane phrase, which means simply courage,
courage, macaroni and cheese" Is used in uFg
ing on donkeys, the form being varied to read
"Coraggio per vol, formaggio per moi, I" courage
for you, cheese for US, a sentiment hardly cal
culated to encourage the creatures if they
understood it. But the donkeys and their
masters and the oarsmen and pretty much all
the Italians you meet are patient, hardworking
creatures, content with their rations and to-
tally. different from the lazy Sinking erea-
lures that we Americans usually expect TO
find them. In this respect my hasty obser-
vations are pleasantly confirmed by Baedeker,
who speaks of the NeapOlitans as follows
The fishermen and boatmen, with their Phry-
gian caps and their sunburnt and often hand
some features, are the modern representatives
of the LazzarOni, a class which has long been
the especial favorite of noyeiists but which
may now be considered as extinct. The name,
derived from the Lazarus of the Bible, dates
from the time of the Spanish viceroys, and was
applied to the half-naked and homeless Nea-
politans who preferred begging TO work. At
the present day, however the lower classes,
setting aside the fraternity which preys on
Travellers are remarkable for their industry and
frugality."
Italian dishonesty, too, seems obsolescent,
If not, indeed, obsolete. When a cabman takes
| the trouble TO return to hotel and give up, Of
his own accord, a book carelessly left in his
possession, and when the travellers attention
Is called to a franc dropped and overlooked, the
superficial observer may be pardoned hasty
belief that the Italians have been misrepre-
scented, and that some, at least, of the work
ing people are scrupulOusly honest. The ira
dltional need OF bargaining Is still here IN
full force, and the oyercharge in the beginning
| is always made in such business-like way,
and the peTsuasions that follow have such an
air of frankness and half raillery that only
constant reference to the guide-bOOk prevents
THE BEAUTIES OF CAPRI.
Allowance being made, however, for this one
lingering defect In the Italian character, it
proves, in other respects, delightful to. come
into contact with CHEEKY, unfailing geniality
meeting you at all polntS-even IN the midst OF
the bargaining. In this approving frame of
mind you reach Capri, having enjoyed to the
full the row under the setting sun in sight of
distant hills, and forthwith you lose all desire
to return to any other form of civilization.
Here there is quiet little pension, kept by a
pretty, soft-vOieed woman, who receives you as
friend and gives you vast room, with win
dows looking over the bay and up to the rocks.
III you are enterprising, you go TO the Blue
Grotto and the villa of Libernis, and you make
the acquaintance of mules and mule drivers,
coral sellers and boatnen, and you meet a
| young barber, who offers to shave you, then
and there, half way down the stony climb from
the villa. If you decline his offer, he awaits
you next morning at breakfast time, having
/ found your abode, you never learn how. There
| are Capri oranges for breakfast, Capri wine for
dinner, and Capri lemonade growing in the
! garden, as it We're! When you 90 away the
pretty waiting maid gives you a little nosegay,
and the whole small community bids you adieu
and bon voyage" 1t is all simple and friendly
There are not many tourists and the kindly,
smiling people are not birds of prey Swooping
down upon you with reference 70 your pocket
book. OF the exquisite beauty of the island it
Is useless to speak; it must be seen. Some idea
of it may be gained from Mount Desert which
Is said to resemble Capri, though the little
Mediterranean island must have an advantage
In the historic interest of its ruins and in its
delicious atmosphere. Every sense is satisfied
in this marvellous spot. As you sit in the sum
shine watching the smoke column rise from
| Vesuvius across the bay, the perfume of flowers
| fills the air, the quiet little waves plash far
| below and the distant song OF peasant woman
reaches your ear. 1t is not strange that the
faces of the people are bright and friendly.
| Their island must seem to them the creation Of
a God who does indeed love his children.
FIX.