Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1883-07-31
THE TOILET.
Unseen Garments That are Elabor-
crate and Costly.
How Good Taste in Selection Of Material
and lis Manufacture Can I'm
prove Nature.

lady,s wardrobe which is born to be
worn unseen-her un~derclothing.
Elaborate, costly, dainty, perfect mar
wells as regards intricate n~eejlework;
small fortunes in trimmings OF real
laces; cobwebs in matter of texture,
and perfect outlines Of the figure be-
meath them. They are the finest of
materials and the coslllest Of trimmings,
deity shaped into graceful patterns, to
be seen only by the irrate Iaundress,
who views them from the clOthes-line
with war it her heart rs she computes
the amount Of labor before her in clean
ing, starching and ironing.
II remains an open question which is
the more popular, the surah handmade
garments or the domestic machine
made. Both have arrived at u style
bordering on perfection, and each has u
large army Of patrons. Both are kept
in immense stock at most of the leading
dry goods houses, and the patrons are
80 diversified that everybody can find
/ lust what is most desiled. There is u
/ or, wing demand tor the fine hand
made goods technically called
French" and these, when made OF the
French materials, are o durable
than are the domestic.
The business OF manufacturing under
wear is rapidly assuming immense pro-
portions in the larger cities, and furnish
Is hundreds of women and girls with
work, though it must be told the pay is
shametuily small.
There has been q brave effort on the
part of the dress refOrmers to render the
combination garments popular, but it
must be said that the effort has not
proven successful. When it is desired
to make the figure appear slight as
possible underclothing is made quite
narrow, and combination garments,
doing away with bands at the waist,
7 are sometimes employed. The corset,
too, Is now outside all the underclOth-
ing, to give a smooth, snug fit about the
waist and over the hips. This is
especially desirable when Jerseys are
worn or dresses with the pauier effect.
For ladies mclining to undue flesh a
fine silk knitted or goSsamer undervest,
a weli-iiLtiug corset, a corset cover aud
skirts made with deep yokes, give a
many points in their favor a. they a
we'll obtain.
Night Dresses.
The prevailing styles for nighI.gowns
are the SaCque shapes with yOkes of
lace or embroidery. \ novelty is a
night robe Of fine India linen, with a
Vatican plat in the back, which has a
drmi. train, the entire front of rich
Flureutiup lace Cdgiug in cascades down
the centre and in double quilting around
the bottom. Linen lawn is much used
with real lace for handsome gowns
made up with what are termed PDmpe-
dour yOkes. The Mother Hubbard
gOwn-a model borrowed from the
/ children's dress of that name-is an
other style. On the more expensive
robes there is q wealth of garniture,
and the garment follows the outlines of
the figure closely, suggesting a dress
ing-rObe or wrapper rather than a night
gown.
Walking skirts, to wear with short
dresses, grow more and more elaborate,
until now there remains scarcely any
! space to ornament.
The favorite garnitines for skirts are
embroidery, torchOn, Nalenciennes and
Medici and FlOrentine lace. Tucks
| and insertions appear in almost every
p~etticOat seen, and many for the space
/ of half to seven-eighths of a yard from
the bottom are q solid mass of elaborate
| ornamentation. Not 8 few skirts have
"a many as six, eight and ten rutfies of
embroidery.
Fine French hand.embroidered un-
derweaf is also very popular. Many of
the garments are handwOrk. New
! STYLES ofFrench handmade lawn gowns
have sleeves tucked from shoulder to
elbow, and from cuff to midway be-
tween wrist and elbow, leaving the
middle a very full puff. Bridal sets
represent all sorts of e~Xtravagant beau
ties and graces. The materials and
trimmings are Of the finest aud the
needlewOrk is elaborate.
A separate paragraph ought to be de-
voted to the modern corset cover. These
are little waits for fitting ever the cor
set and usually n c0bweb of real lace
down the front and around the neck and
shoulders.
In silk underwear the skill of the de-
signer has been well employed. There
are garments of Surah and Chinese silk
as deliberately trimmed as Is the latest
triumph of Pingat or Worth. Fsvorite
shades are pale blue and ivory, and
these are ornamented with a profusiOn
of real laces> and fine Swiss insertions.
The skirts of the garments are also
ruffled and lace trimmed.
COrsetS.