Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-04-02


geneous through to the heterogeneous. and
from the Heterogeneous up to the homogene-
Gus again-only, it is first the homogeneous in
4 its crude forms, and, lastly, the homogeneous
/ In its highest, most refined and cultivated
modes of expression Accepting this state
/ ment, it does not take much study of sociology
/ to discover that we are in the heterogeneous
| stage of development SO far as our clothing is
| concerned, and that progress must be made
| by individuals toward the higher plane and
not expected from the aggregate mass. which
can never give more than the mean average
result, and is composed largely of elements di-
rectly interested in stimulating the produc-
tion of thousand unnecessary accessories to
what we call our civilization.
THE SPRING BONNET.
No better illustration could be found of the
/ condition of fashion as it exists to-day than
/ the grOtesque, many eOlOred HYDRA shaned
ana strangely contrasted spring bonnet Man
| utacturers of original ''strawS'' are at their
wits end fer ~ novelty. The ''his :
| t0rlc pasto has been eXhausted-tbat il
! so far as ignorant limitations can exhaust
original ldeas-and there is no one who darps
or who has enough intelligent knowledge. to
come out ana give us an American shape, an
| original and picturesque mode, whose dis
JUNCTION and fitness would win for it respect
ana acceptance. At present those who nav
| thelr money may truly take their choice. We
! nave tuc scoop anu the ''pOllteQ DOke.p the
| gypsy and the ''capOte," the "ScOtch" bon
net and the 'khediYe" cap, the 'EGainesbor-
ough" and the "Derby," the ''Marie STUART
ana the simple turban, and thousand shapes
ana gradatlons between these. We have
straws in every color to match the latest
shades In costume, and we have the all black
OF ora an white which are popularity sup
posed to be suited to any cos
tune, though the authorities discredit this
assertion. We have what are musicaIlv
called symphonies" in color, but which are
merely a confused tumble of color sounds
without clearly defined purpose, and therefore
without harmony.
In the meantime there are ladies who do not
depart from the small bonnet known as the
capote, who lind T. best suited to all purposes.
ana who change it only for shade hat in the
country or for moderate and modest SCOOP
snapeq poke or small gypsy in travelling, both
OF which shade the face and are better adapt
ed 10 emergencies than the quiet and refined,
yet dressy little capOte, which frames deli
cate face most charmingly, and is no obstacle
aJ the theatre or concert, but does little for
protection against sun or wind. But it was
as 'costume" bonnets-that is, as bOnnets to
match visiting and reception cOstumes-that
these.pretty head dresses were first introduced
several years ago, and that they have held
thelr own and gained rather than lost pres
tlge, says much in their favor In fact they
have established a position. They are ''dressN
bonnets. They are the only kind now admit
ted for widows mourning and they have Gre
ated standard which, even if it is only tenn
porary, is still useful for the time being But
with Its form its value as a standard ceases
IT.; IL is the most MIXED in material, color and
trimming of any of the shapes known The
pointed poke which appeared in Paris two
years ago, ana to limited extent here last
summer. is now numerous. but, excepting the
Iorm' quite simple in its details.
But the capOte makes up for its
gentleness and severe proprietv Of shape by
masslng upon its small surface the richest
lilateFials ana the most highly contrasting
colors and devices. Embroidered or elabo-
rately beaded crowns are combined with eX-
qulslte embroidered or beaded lace which is
pleated over soft foundation of silk, and
covers the brlm, while the ornamentation is
obtained from shaded satin or velvet foliage
in which all the tints of the bonnet and its
trimming are introduced. But the majority
do not follow the law of design or harmony
They are medley of high cOiors or ill -assort-
ed shades, and bear no relation whatever to
any possible combination in any sane woman's
dress. These structures apply of course to
the bonnets as exhibited at the average ''open-
ing" which are the kind most frequently seen
upon the street. They may be copies from
patterns sent from abroad, for there are
bonnets and bonnets everywhere; that is, in all
modern and civilized communities, but they are
not of the best class, and they are not sent
from the best houses in Paris or copied by the
best houses here. The best and finest bonnets
are already made to match or with special
reference to particular costumes and some
modistes scarcely make a dress mot an indoor
morning or evening dress) without sending
its bonnet with it. With a bronze costume
the other day bronze satin bonnet was sent
home, both trimmed with beaded passemen-
terle, In which amber and ruby were intro
duced with fine effect. The crown of the
bonnet was embroidered to match, and
group of amber bronze, and ruby ostrich
feathers was placed so as TO form a sort of
algrette. Another was of the new ash
green, in plush and satin surah. with
beaded and embroidered trimmings contain
ing all the shades from French bronze to Nile
green. The bonnet was faced with shrimp
pink satin, covered with pleated lace, and the
garniture consisted of tuft of shrimp pink
feathers and embroidered lace, the embroid-
cry executed with shaded green floss and fas-
tened with small gold pins.
A novelty in the white NeapOlitan braid is
edged with fine gold or silver cord, which ra-
dlates IN glItterng lines from the centre of
the crown and forms a border to the brim
which Is faced with futed lace or shirred
satin, or both. The trimming is usually some
ilght ana delicate kind of lace arranged en-
jd6ot fastened with gold or silver pins, and
group OF pale-pink or blue feathers, or a large
spray of blossoms which falls in masses.
Another style Of bonnet is the pointed poke
IN English or satin straw, These are often
trimmed In all-ivOFy white and gold or white
and pink, or pink with a little infusion of
delicate blue, or pale blue with a soupcon of
pink. They are not very large, and are more
becoming than could be imagined from seeing
them IN the hand-especally to an irregular
face. These shapes are seen in colOrs in
ecru, apricot, strawberry bronze, and even
in terra Gotta red, but not in black. The
black straWs and chips are mainly found in
three shapes-the capote, the modern SCOOP
shaped poke, and the gypsy. Excepting in
mourning, it is now rare to see an all black
bonnet. Black straws are very much trimmed
with gold birds and small poinpons in groups
OF three and the brims edged with gold cord
narrow gold cord braid or gold embroidered
lace.
PAINTING AND EMBROIDERY.
The magnificence of evening and indoor
dressing finds more striking eXemplifcation
every day, since enormous fortunes have in
trodgced style of living which seems to de-
ma1d man dress which shall be somewhat in ac-
cordance with its luxury and splendor But
this has at least one good effect-it prevents
the absurdly frequent changes. If lady has
dress whose panels of soft thick satin have
eaoh been painted by great artist, or whose
emDroldered front breadths of solid gold can
not be duplicated, she is not going to throw it
aside after once or twice wearing; but in
way, her robe becomes as famous as her
Jewels. and is reserved like them for the
grandest occasions.
A beautiful dress worn at a dinner recently
was of the richest pale blue pink satin, the
front breadth embroidered thickIy with
silver IN lovely wheat and clover
top design. The train was pleated
and plain, but arranged as a vatican. with
side draperies arranged as paniers and al
surplice folds of embroidered silver gauze.
The dress was low and sleeveless, except a lit
tie yelling OF the gauze caught up on the top
of the beautiful arm. An aigrette of pink
feathers and silver wheat was worn in the
hair, which was arranged high and inclOSe
irregular pufs and soft curls in front.
ing up OF the rl5h ottoman satihs and bro
caded silks is an act of vandalism that cannot
be borne, and thus with the richer materials
have come in palmer designs, but much finer
and more elaborate workmanship. The wat
teau follows in the natural course of events
and is very graceful when well arranged and
worn by graceful person. At brilliant
wedding, recently, young lady wore a wat
teau dress of pale yellow Grape, painted upon
the back and in the square front with yiOlets
and lilies OF the valley, with extraordinary
0elIcacE refinement. nd
of the arms were yelled with folds of lovely
old lace, and an amber comb and string of
amber beads completed the costume. A Young
lady present upon the same occasion
beauty and originality. She had bright
square, dark face, Egyptian in contour, and
those who did not know her name called her
SalOme. Her dress was of dull Indian red
satin, embroidered with gold in an antique
pattern around the bottom and draDed close
ly with gold embroidered guaze, which filed
In the square at the neck and covered the
arms nearly to the elbow. Round her neck was
chain of COINS and her hair in front ioined
her thick eyebrows. Her arms to the elbows
were covered with duh wrinkled gloves, pale
tan color IN shade. i b. = t4.i
These beautiful toilets involve moro elabo.
rate styles of hair dressing, The hair cOmbed
close to the head and arranged in plain knot
at the back does not admit of much ornamen-
tatlOn beyond comb, and does not add to
apparent weight or dignity. A more effective
coiffure Is required to crown the masterpiece
of the mOdistes art, and so the puffs and curls
and aigrettes are gradually being renstated.
TRAVELLING DRESS.
In the meantime, the young who have not
much can'fejoice that not much is expected OF
them. I1e newest safines, which show in
creasing loveliness of design and delieacv Of
coloring and shading, are more in harmony
win the blossoming season than the eOstliest
satins, and youth itself is better than all that
money can bring to age, because it still pos
sesses the priceless gifts OF its illusions and its