The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1883-09-19


dolman sleeves, the single width, which is
that Of ordinary silk velvet, n no objection,
as it cuts to equal advantage with the double
and may be lined with a quilted
silk that is sold by the yard. The
fact that the broche patterns are woven
into the fabric Is an advantage TO be duly
estimated, a. patterns merely stamped in
look common and shiny" to begin with. and
have faculty for getting mixed up and leay-
ing ridge, which is shabby and disagree
able substitute for s pattern. They say that
plush Is no longer fashionable. but il may
console the lover Of that beautiful stuff TO
learn that the new chenille velvet brocedes
are Of such long pile as to make them resem-
bic the plush brocades of the past sufficiently
to satisfy the demands of their taste, while
sufficient novelty is impaired by the new
ottoman and serge grounds, the new colors
and new designs, as 10 give them the unmis-
taxable mark Of new goods. Lsdy's cloth
comes out under two new names-drap des
damee, when plain woven, and Wales cloth,
in compliment 10 the Princess of Wales
when woven en- trsvers. A glove finish and
softness of texture that is given TO it this
year is admirable. In all the colors of the
season, including the elephant and pschut
gray, the new Judic shades of red, Russian
green and Gar brown. the Wales cloths and
drap des danes are recommended for suits
that may be utilized for shopping, business,
driving and travelling costumes, when some
thing more ELEGANT and costly than eheviot
lie hernandez. Materials shot of two colors
are very fashionable, IS well in co,tons ana
woolens as in silks. Besides being shot, they
are often checked, dotted or brOcsded With
patterns in chenille or velvet. if silk; or
printed merely. if cotton or wool. Shep.
herds checks are varied this season by hav-
ing lines of color-red, blue, and yellow
introduced into them, and By associaling
them with plain goods and also with stripes.
Among the most popular all-wool checks are
gray and greer with narrow red hses-moss
green with brown, yellow and black lines
and yellow with black, brown and red lines.
TIE strawberry and raspberry shsdes have
not "gone out'' by any mesns, but they have
taken on deeper tints and brighter shades
Some beautiful csshmeres are in ported in
bright shades of strawberry and cream"
and present a delightful ground for embroid-
cry in silk and chenille, or chenille and gold
for morning robes or tunics for handsome
dinner dresses. Dark blue is as stylishly
worn IS ever in cameFs hsir flannel, soft
serge. and the like; and is best associated
Nth the Indian shsds of red as lining and
finish. Checked cashmere is much USED for
children's and young ladies' dresses, also for
ladies' morning or evening costume. Check
ed wColen muslin makes up very charming
toilets, wool gauz9 is more dressy, espa-
cially when It has pretty silk patterns upon
the surface.
Designs for the street sre in all cases de-
cidedly simple and FREQ from ornamentstion
Skirts are fiat upon the front and 81 the sides,
and are trimmed or plated straight up and
down. The drspery is massed st the back
aud is not st all exaggerated. Elastic bands
underneath hold the skirt in position, but re-
straint is not visible, the tie-bsck has dissp
peareo, and the whole ensemble is easy and
natural. For rich costumes velvet and new
dress satin-thick and with a shorter loop
than duchesse, therefore loss glossy-sre in
the ascendant, and are frequently
solid, uniform colors, the contrast being
made in fabric only. For reception
oilets the brccaded silks aud satins will BIZ
in high vogue, more or less in conjunction
with 0ttomsn satin, which often forms the
petticoat. Last year brocaded robes opsned
in front, and displayed lace hounces or q rich
embroidery-this year they are more fashion
ably drawn up on the side, the looping ef
tected with cords, tinted sstin ribbons, feath
ere, or bouquet of flowers. One of the fes-
lures of dress trimmings this autumn is the
cutting of the edges Of skirts, tunics and pol.
onaises into turrets, Vandykes and seall5ps
"a fashion so popular last season in lighter
fabrics. Tweed dresses are made IN this
manner with good success, the blocks or
points being lined with silk, and turned back
sometimes to show bright kiltin under.
meath Some of the blocks are quite broad.
and not only trim the foot of the skirt and
tunic but are set in full double rows around
boa do & ha "a ~
lar Elizsbethan style. Many of the dark
VOC len dresses sre enlivened by Louis XIV.
Wsistcoats, either real or sim ulated, made OF
velvet, serge, or silk. White silk waistcost
with dark.blue cloth costumes are seen, with
rundown collars and lspels like gentle
name coat. They are buttoned down the
front, ard the great consideration is the but
tons which must be costly and in harmony
with the color of the dress fabric. If of
tweed, in heather mixtures, enamel buttons
are used, inlaid with different colors-red
predominating. Very stylsh-looking
promenade costumes made of olive
green and dark myrtle green
crossed with lines of old gold or cardinal,
have wsistcosts Of dark green velvet or royal
cardinal serge, fastened with small gold but
tons and trimmed with gold braidiDg In
srabesque designs. a beautiful dress in
OldCk dUu WHibo 10 oAAnnbcO WIZ AooNoOuAO
satin duchese patterns and fine inserted plat.
ings of ivory attn, yelled with black lace,
the upper dress forming coat, the lower q
demi-trained skirt with triple plated back.
A simple but very stylish reception dress is
of ivory armure brocade, the bodice pointed
front and back trimmed long 6quare with
embroidery on ivory sstin. edged on both
sides with exquisite Mechlin lace; sleeves 10
the elbow, also trimmed with embroidery
and with lace. Skirt drsped slightly in
front, and arranged st me back at very
graceful train. A pretty steel gray dress,
with bonnet to match, is of cashmere aud
satin, the latter forming the killings, the for
mer the upper DRESS and the foundation for
deEcate, stsr-like embroidery Of steel and
eherille. Simple costumes for the esrty au-
turnn are made of finely checked fancy ma,
terial, with full blouse bodice trimmed
with several rows of narrow velvet ribbon.
The skirt and tunic are trimmed with the
same, and cockade or star bows OF velvet
nbbon to match are placed here, there and
everywhere over the bodice, skirt and dra-
peries.