Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-10-06
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
Genuine TailOr.lHade Suifs-The Novel
and Decorative Styies-The New Ron.
nefs-fashiOn i'm Sleeves and Arms.

6enu1ne TaIlOf.Hade Suifs-The Novel
and Decorative Styies-The New Rom
nefs-fashion i'm sleeves and Arms.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. Oct. 5.-Fne wool is so lovely for
wear, SO sanitary In its effects that it is pleas
ant to see how largely 1t is pressed into the SER
vice for autumn suits and outdoor garments.
This we owe to the introduction by wealthy
travelled women of the English tailor-made
suit and its gradual adoption among US. Within
the past few years several fashionable tailOrs
have added ladies' departments to their estab-
nshments, where genuine tailor-finished cos
TUNES are modelled after those of Redeem or
Benjamin or Cobbe, OF London and fitted with
the same care and exactness. The fashions in
these differ but little from year to year, and
here show less variety than abroad, for the num-
Der of purchasers is restricted and consists
largely of ladies distinguished for quiet refined
taste, who do not 90 into the fancy styles.
which are admissible for country houses, shoot
Ing boxes Alpine climbing, and the various
uses TO which tailor" suits are put by
the fashionable denizens of the London world.
The cost of a good tailor-made suit. well-fitted
and finished is from go to 5125-the difference
In the fineness of cloth and quality of satin lin
liz rather than in cut, design or workmanship
The costume consists Of four pieces, skirt.
tunic. basque and outside coat, made like a gen.
tlemans frock- coat; if Newmarket (lonc
coat was required the cost would range from
Sizo 10 800 But for these prices beginning
at go. the fine cloth is mounted upon n silk
skirt lining; the basque is lined with pure
twiiled SILK and the coat with solid satin The
nnish Is silk feather stitching and a soft
doubled gailoOn, which only forms a cord upon
the edge where 1t is used. The design is
IN CllI rsnnf$ act I,,k
tailor-made suits everything is real basques
and cOaks have pockets which, though not con-
spicuous, are put i'm with neatness and sOlidity
and therefore can be used. Vests are not
simulated, they are vests Cor waistcOats) and
have convenient little rockets like those of
men. The entire outfit is permanent in it's
character. and though the price we have to paw
Tor 1T restricts its usefulness Vet it is doing q
good work in the influence it exercises upon
popular styles and the cultivation of the tastes
of the majority.
This influence is very marked this season.
Cloth dresses. cloth suits and cloth
jersey Jackets are adopted by the best
class of people, and cloth coats. so
long neglected for silk and ''fur-lined " promise
to achieve a wide popularity, particularly where
the cold makes wool welcome in any shape six
or eight months Of the year. New fancy"
WOODEN fabrics are ribbed and intersected with
lines of cOlOred silk or gold threads in ndescrib-
able ways; but these are not used by tailors to
the fine cloth in solid cOlOrs and darkest shades
being always considered more distinguished.
Fancy suitings change from season to season;
orlng fancy prices-prices whcih bear nOrelatiOn
70 their real VAUDEVILLE they are a novelty"
but drop to LESS than COST when the season is
over and they are succeeded by other fanciful
iaorlcs to catch the eye and extract money from
the purse ON the score Ofbeing the --latest thing
out"
Much better than ribs or mixtures are the
ynf rctir, ;l1nl
cloth, resembling stockingette, of which the
finest jersey jackets, TUNES, suits. and some Of
the new cape-elOaks are composed. The cloth
1s thick. warm. rough-finished on the under
side. yet light in weight and not clumsy. When
mace into Jerseys it is faced with silk or satin,
the pockets put in tailor fashion. and the finish
Ing executed with the utmost neatness.
The jersey Jacket has taken on most singular
vogue-slngular because it has been before the
public several years; but only recently broken
out INTO this apparently causeless epidemic.
Perhaps 1t took this length of time to discover it's
virtues; anyhow it must possess virtues and of
. positive Kind. or it would not have won It's
way to SO marked degree Of popular favor
There Is great difference between the cost of
plain and the cost of a braided tunic of the same
kind lady who had finished an order for
braiding an hundred dozen of fine cashmere Ter
eeys recently, received an order for another
hundred dozen from the same firm. The price
20 the purchasers of the plain Jersey was S.
The price paid for braiding was sixty cents
The price charged for the braided Jersey was
$lO Ladies who can braid and embroder their
own jerseys bad better make a note of this
new model of a cloth dress lust received re-
minds one of the combination pieces of fur
Nil ure which are capable of so many TRANSFORMED
tlons. This suit has Vatican drapery, which
can be changed at touch into a scarf-like dol
man: and is. therefore. thought more dressy for
INDOORS while available without further addition
for the street. But the charm of the cloth SUIT
has always seemed to me its simplicity its direct
ness, its neatness. its freedom from supertiuOus
drapery and if it is to take on all the business
which it Is customary to put into other mate
rias, it would annihilate both suit and wearer
THE WATERMELON AND MUSHROOM STYLES
As far removed as possible from the quiet re-
nnement Of the best tailor-made costumes are
the samples of goods and models of dresses that
are shown a sthe freshest creations and importa-
tions of this year Of dire events. 1888 "Who
Is to wear them?" one asks in halt admiration,
half disgust. Surely the woman who could
array herself in these gorgeous fields of pine
cones, enlarged fungi and vertebrate pbenom-
ena, varied with split fruits Of the earth
spread out like dessert on platters of brilliant
malolica, ought to be capable of great things if
ner energies and courage are ever turned in any
practical direction.
That dress is to receive an impetus from the
present rage for art and interior decoration is to
De expected; out one would have supposed it
styles TO the ruffs and trains and stOmachers: to
the powdered heads and massive breastplates of
1ewels-not to such carpenter and uphOlsterer
patterns as these. The carving and the mahor-
any, the vauted ceilings and grand staircases
the stained glass and massive stone work form
suitable frame work for the picturesque tr-
nres that move. slow and dignified procession.
through the XINth. XIV and XVIth centuries
What may be called the commonplace of dress
came in with the sacque in the latter half OF the
ANlllth century, drifted into the short gown of
the thrifty great grandmother of the present
generation. and has held its place In one form
or another ever since
The raised figures in velvet plush and satin.
and particularly the beautiful tapestried effects
upon grounds that reproduce perfectly the
mesh OF the GObeiines. seem to demand the res
tOratien of long unbrOken and stately designs
designs subordinated to the display of the fab
ne not. as OF late years, in which the fabric has
been cruelty mutilated and sacrificed to the
trivial and ineonsequent mixture of bed valence
anu curtain drapery which the Partisan modiste
mas been Pleased to dub design.
III women of taste will select from among the
heh autumn fabrics they may find some capable
OF original and effective treatment; but they
must not leave the making up to the hap-hazard
treatment oil the conventional modesto no mat
ger now great her regulations; for the majority
OF her customers want only cOnyentionaljsm
strongly accumulated and s.ideas, ORC pot NO