The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1883-12-14

Ladies Of simple tastes have these
.astes gratified BY the plain costumes
which It is the excellent fashion this
;eason 10 choose for the street. The
.ailor dresses of cloth brought this
simplicity into favor. and have also
made it the correct thing to have street
,mits of wool in preference to those of
silks and satins formerly worn. While
,loth is the favorite fabric for wool
dresses, there are ladies who object to
is great weight, and for these there are
The lighter camel's-hair, Biarritz and
ottoman reps, cashmere, the rough
swilled bison cloth and the figured wool
tapestries. The entire dress is made of
these woolens, though in imported skirts
there is usually q foundation skirt, which
is wholly concealed by the wool skirt
laid upon it. For simple designs of
these there are skirts made Of two
straight breadths of the widest double
width wool goods broadly bordered with
velvet or with plain velveteen set on at
the foot-not above it, as was formerly
done. This is handsome in dull Titan
red camers-halr intwo straight breadths
over silk foundation skirt. Above this
is polonais of the wool goods closely
fitted and very much draped by curving
away from the waist in front, and being
caught up on the tournure by two bows
Or rosettes of velvet. The front of the
polonalse is tucked in small tucks that
begin at the neck and disappear in the
curves below the waist. A standing
velvet collar, velvet cuffs, and two vel
vet straps at the waist line complete the
trimming. The buttons are small, and
are of metal, with the disk shaped like
a cup, with red or iridescent coloring,
and in this cup is q bunch of metal
grapes or of leaves. If a coat is added
to this for the street, it is rather short.
with cross seam along the hips, and
some box 'pleats behind. Gray cash
mere suits.are similarly made, with the
drapery of the back very full, yet not
broad, being confined to a long narrow
space, while it is very short OIL the hips,
and scarcely more than basque in
front. There may be soft gathered
vest of satin, or else one of the new
small-figured velvet brocades is used,
with tiny leaf or block or ring of satin
sunk in the velvet.
The tapestry woods are liked by young
ladies who want good deal of color,
yet in subdued tones that will not be
conspicuous; these are pretty in dark
blue, brown. dull red. or green grounds.
with flower designs woven to represent
the cross stitches of old tapestries; this
figured stuff is used merely for the skirt,
while the overdress is plain cloth, cam
el's-hair or Sicilienne of the color of the
ground. Dark blue and Titan red suits
Of twilled stuffs have position basque
and plated skirt, with braided panels,
and with most of the drapery in the
back: but if the wearer is quite tall, or
has very small hips, there is also some
wrinkled drapery across the front; if
she is quite stout. there may be four
plaits, two coming from each side, down
the middle of the front, while there are
wide side breadtfn that are covered with
parallel rows of braid, thicker than SOU
tache, and a third of an inch broad.
This is pretty on the flecked Cheviots
now so much in favor with young ladies,
and the braid is usually of the darkest
color; brown fiecked with red. green
with golden brown, and blue with red
or brown, are fashionable contrasts in
this warm yet light wool. The position
basque of cashmere or bison wool
dresses is now very short on the hips,
and is longer behind, where it forms a
broad square. The front may be either
round or pointed, and is very plainly
buttoned up to the throat. and finished
with a high standing collar; or else it
has soft satin plastron or vest, which
is further trimmed by a revers of velvet
on each side, and passing up around
the collar. The very long apron over
skirt, with single cluster of folds drap-
ing it high and far back on each side, is
still fashionably worn by young ladies;
these are made of two breadths Of
double-width goods by some modistes.
while others cut them by the pattern of
the lower skirt, and drape them on the
wearer, arranging the fullness as best
suits the figure. Bazar.