Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1883-09-28
ran FASHION NOTES.

will become necessary to render toilets Of a
former season fashionable. few hints up
on the way in which such notifications can
be accomplished may be acceptable to our
readers.
II you possess princess shaped dress you
can make II quite en- rapport with present
style by proceeding as follows Cut away all
the skirt front, leaving sufficient only for a
basque about four inches deep, or a peak
The remainder of the dress may keep its for.
mer shape but the bodice should be open in
the middle of the back and eyelet.knOts let
in on each side, so that IL may be laced. The
skirt front is then replaced by a tablier Of
plain silk, If the dress is figured or of bro
caded silk, il the dress is plain or, again,
covered with lace. The silk tablier should be
cut on the straight, gathered at the waist like
a nurses apron, and cut out into turret blocks
at the foot, showing II Autng three inches
deep of the same material as the dress.
A square lace shawl laid over a silk lining
to match would also look extremely well by
way Of a tablier deep facings Of material to
correspond may be placed on each side. For
a dinner or evening toilet the bodice should
be cut open in the shape Of square, If it is
not 80 already, and the opening edged with
lace The front of the bodice, which fastens
at the back, is then covered with plastron
in the Grecian style, pleated in the shape of
a fan, and is finished at the point with bow.
Two narrow scarfs, proceeding from the side
Of the skirt cross midway over the tablier
and are tied in loose bow. The semi long
sleeves are trimmed with drapery of the ma
terial and with lace.
Another way of transforming a princess
dress into fashionable toilet for lady of
certain age is the following Cut out skirt
of glazed calico, alpaca or any other cheap
material of the same color as your dress
round the foot place ilounce two inches and
a half deep of black or colored silk over
the front arrange either a number of lace
louuoes or a draped tablier made out of a
square lace shawl. This tahlier should be
slanted of on each side at the top, so as to
terminate into a point. II the dress is col
ored silk lining of the same color shou ID be
placed under the lace. The princess dress
should be open in front to show the tablier
few pleats should be formed on each side in
order to throw all the fullness to the back.
Should the dress prove too wide, some Of the
material may be cut away from it; but this is
rarely the case and the fullness of the dress
is in general barely sufficient to form the puff
of the tournure at the back The edge Of
the dress behind should not come down lower
than the Auting. The bodice may be trim
med with lace hchu or pelerine, matched to
the tablier fastened in front with bow Of
flbOOn. elNel may De buUhtluttu lOI tut
lace for all the trimmings, tabier and pelernc
included, in the case of simple style Of au-
tumn dress.
The variety of shapes Of mantles is such
that one need not mind wearing those Of even
three years ago, on the sole condition, for all
visites and pelisses, of Sitting open the back,
which may be either left thus or the opening
filled up with pleated gore of silk, satin or
velvet or, again, plain piece OF the mate
rial covered with lace ruches-this in order
not to hinder the full putting out of the tourn.
ure With a vsite somewhat the worse for
wear you can still make one Of those pretty
pelerine visites which keep the shape Of the
visite in the upper part but are straight of
hallway up the waist 1t can DE worn with
any dress. Trim it with a LACE ruche il it is
Of silk or velvet with chenille or bead fringe
if Of cloth or cashmere.
As for demi saison paletots of fancy or
plain cloth, you must proceed, as for vsites
and pelisses, to slit them open in their lower
part They will look quite modern aud fash.
ionable by adding to them a short pelerine
caughtup in front to the neck by a flowing bow
or an artistic brooch. II you are unable to
make this pelerine of the same material as
the mantle, you can make it of velvet, on
condition Of adding cuffs and pocket flaps Of
the same The skirt part of paletots may
q coat leaving it long in front and shorten
ing it on the back or, again, by draping il
up on each sids into paniers. Silk paIetots
may be trimmed with lace and finished with
a small pelerine of the same.
II is said that plain round, full skirts will
be worn. these void OF plat or pucker, but
trimmed with bias bands of the self material
or velvet, or rows of braid that the skirt
will be attached to the band at the waist in
large paits hanging loose or gathered-this
depending upon the material.
Redingotes and polonaises will both be
worn. The two are often COMPOUNDED. The
first is a masculine, undraped affair; the sec
ond may be bunchy, trimmed and dressy,
worn for quiet house dress, a street suit,
and equally well in full dress-all depending
upon material.
The polonaise Just out has full blouse
waist belted at the waist line skirt more or
less draped Another style that will take bet
ter with those who need no building has
pointed vest of contrast in velvet, plush
or pulled satin.
Basques are no longer plain, simple affairs,
buttoned from throat to edge, but they are in
a variety of styles, with a plain vest with
side pockets quite manly in edect) or the
vest may form two points at the bottom. and
the waist close with three buttons or clasp
over it at the waist-lin then cut away above
and below. Again, the vest may be beaut-
fully embroidered or trimmed with rows of
narrow velvet or braid.
The Moliere puff, which is vest gathered
in at the neck, again at the waist.line, and
falling below in full ends, lace trimmed, is
very dressy and will take well where lace and
satin is to be used
Sleeves are set high and bouffant in the
shoulders, both in dresses and coats. Abroad
~ Of. and han
ed in at the wrist but that does not take
here. Even the boufiant shoulder is worn by
but few, whereas there are but few forms to
whom these high sleeves are not positive
advantage.
Silver gray mohair dresses, made to fit per
fectly and trimmed simply with self plaitings
are among the most ladyliks and serviceable
of travelling costumes. They are not affect
ed by dampness, aud shed the dust with q
good shaking.
Not in many years have American women
been more charmingly or appropriately at
tired, good common sense showing itself
along with all the magnihcence and style
in the Gu. and make-high necks com
Portable waists and sleeves, and absence of ex.
aggerated trains and train trimmings. Qui-
ct elegance is the rule of the hour. An over
abundance of jewelry is considered in the
worst taste and at many receptions and
grand fetes, numbering among their lady
guests the wives and daughters of the wealth
lest of our citizens, one and all eschew the
display of any great amount of diamonds OIL
jewels of any description and appear in ma
ture's more beautiful adjoining of flowers
Long, trailing branches of roses and foliage
great clusters of narguerites and pansies
helotropes, scarlet and pink geranium bios
SONS, and many other beautiful flowers have
lent added charm to the summer toilet, scat
tered all over the dress or arranged in grace
full parures for the corsage, neck and couture
The JUMBO OF CRICXETs. -Throughou tn
whole tOrritpEY of Utah the cricket is one o