Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1883-09-27
Sweets to the Sweet.
\ rERfUMER's ACCOUNT or HIS oDoROUs
OCCUPATION.
SIT pi ING AfFlNlTlE> AND BLENDING
SCENTS.

''Smell of that" said Syracuse perfumer
at bis place Of business. lie pulled the cork
from big bottle containing the tncture ol
ambergris and rubbed it upon the back d.
the reporters hand The basis from
which that tincture is made, he said, ..came
from a sick whale. II doesn't smell very
pleasant, but, when combined with other
things, II makes sweet perfume"
You got that stuff from sick whale -
the reporter asked.
why, yes, said the periumer at Is 4
morbid secretion Of the liver Of the whale,
and, is principally found floating upon the
seas ot warm climates. intermixed with the
remains Of the food Of whales. When OF
good quality il i Of a bright gray color,
streaked with black and yellow. SO soft that
i may be tiattened with the finger. Per
son, engaged in whale fishing look for am
hcrsris IN the intestines Of the spermaceti
whale. and are most successful in those that
appear torpid, sick and lean whence il
would seem TO be product Of disease 1t
Is found in humps weighing from one pound
to twenty or thirty pounds, and is worth
50 an ounce. or twice 1s much as gold
"Do Noa use i in the manufacture OF per
iumess"
Yes; Ill tell You how In the first
place, It costs 1900 to manufacture one
ounce Of perfume That is to say. man
who wishes TO 90 into the business will have
t. lay out about that sum to start. There
are siN flowers which are used in the work
the bases Of all pertumcs-vioet cassia,
rose, tubcrose, jasmine and orange flowers.
THESE iiowers are grown ia France. except
the V!oleis, which are raised in northern
lta1y. Ihet are piuekel and thrown INTO
lon. pans flied with suet. which is kent lust
not enough 70 keep il melted. The flowers
are left IN that way for tweuty-fouf hours.
when the suet is drawn of and treated TO
another batch Of flowers This process i,
continued for twenty Or thirty da,s. until
the strength required ha. been attained |,
Is then put into cans, and in tha, shane is
sent 70 this country. They are called pom
advs take these pomades and cut them
with cologne spirits. | then freeze the sub
stance and run II through filter The su-
q Is thus Kept apart and have the pure
Hover perfume. Il is very sweet and deli
cate, but when exposed TO the air il soon
loses its strength. Therefore we combine it
with what are called the fixing ingredients.
which hold the odors and the essential oils.
Take my Minnehaha perfume. for in
stance. 10 make that have two large YES
>e... Into one put the flower washings of
'uberose, rose and violet. TO these | add
the tlncture Of tonca. vanilla, amberyris,
musk, ciret and tolu. This mixture is thor
Oughly shaken. In the other vessel | put
The essential oils-orrIs, altar Of roses, rose
seranum, neroli. langlang and patchouy
lnese oils are cut with cologne spirits. The
contents Of both vessels are then pu, togeth-
er and thoroughly mixed. The substance
is afterwards filtered, and then allowed 10
stand for month to get age 1t is then
ready for the market.
The perfumer's artistic work is in study
ng athnitles and blending the scents, as a
painter does his colors. Some idea of the
magnitude OF the business Of raising sweet
scented flowers for their perfumes alone may
be gathered from the fact that Europe and
British India alone consume about 10000
:allons Of handkerchief perfume yearly that
ne English revenue from French eau de
flonge of itself is $40, 900 annually, and the
tal revenue of England from other i'm
Pied perfumes is estimated at $500, 900
ea year. There is one great perfume
ah lely at Cannes. in France, which uses
yes about 100000 pounds acacia flowers,
i1ohO pounds of rare flower leaves. 40,
wv tunds of jasmine blossoms, together
WY" immense quantity Of other material
necesy for perfume. Victoria, in New
1outh h'ales is a noted place for the pro
uuc''",f perfume Welding plants, because
| suci pm as the mignonette. sweet verbena,
lasmihe}se, lavender, acacia, heliotrope,
foSemar,aall flower, laurel, orange and
,ne "eeeented geranium are said to grow
'hele II. Hater perfection than i'll any other
part OF world. An acre of jasmine
Pianos' 1000 i'll number. will produce
o'ooo pous Of flowers, Valued at Sl,25O;
an acre oI Sc trees, 10000 in number, will
S Sieid @'ooo punds Of flowers, worth 1915 (;
oov 'fahscres, growing on an acre, will
sie'u' az ~ lars Of age, 1000 pounds of
no"ers, -aiu at $3.50; an acre of yiolets, |
Ptouuclhs p0on y pounds Of flowers, is worth
Sovo' an acrSf cassia trees, about 3OO,.
will az yeaff age, yield 900 pounds Of
no"erS' "o1'nt5O; an acre of geranium
pants WIZ 4 something over 1000 |
ounces oi u.s,lN altar, worth $4,000, and
q" aIe ~ aIer, giving over $500 |
Pounus or noMeo distillation, will yield |
]
"Why is it thai mcrica ca,no, uaLa a.
good perfumes as lid coun,rx ~ ,ha -
porter asked.
because" he a;od sin p..o, 49,
manufacturers get T. odors d;rsc,Iy f.on,
the flower, while Alic.ns 90 ohI;naJ -
import the odors ina nomad.s W.
this country begins Il ;ss IT, o,rn ao,.asa
| don't know any reas whr ws ".,,;, o"s' 49,
just as good perfume Soes Tnh;n.
whats that, Joht i ,ha, ~.
coming ?' asked the sN,sr he. ho,sI ,"T nr"~s; sss
..Th ..Ths, :, hmr.p. tm. po,.s. Iguess it is"
/. ~ ~ anu Pu9me ether under
.hs .ho'W 1u'p - u sna' uns.nolNr on the porch
sn.: S. {, os sa. ne'. P.e'! ~ and we must
na,e y Wv" ~ - a. 'eat-LoceH Cai-
e.