Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-10-06

no -nl,fa
many OF these surprises "
THE "oPENING" HATS Ann goN>,rrs
What are the leading stvless'' * tbnstoreo.
tyPe0 question addressed to the attendants nj
the gorgeous millinery openings. who arc
no1MeNer, themselves anything but gorgeous
PaIe' young, or stout middle aged women
usually, dressed in black. which Servas a. "i ~
Dest loll Tor the mixture of color by which
they are surrounded and Except gray) is the
81 oI. Iiue .iley San wear with which an kinds
| ol pOhhets VIII agree during the s.trvinc on
process to which they are often subjected
Ihe answer given to the simple oucrv has
| become as stereotyped as the question itself.
w ell everything Is worn. and YOU can suit
| your nat to anything YOU choose" LOOKING
/ about 1t seems as if 'everythng'' was worn
/ or would be By the time these s'creations'' had
changed hands. But by and by one begins to
see that IL Is as II ones butcher should make
! an immense flourish over having all the meats
/ on the lace of the earth to choose from and
/ Wnen you visit his shop expecting to find
/ something quite rew and see the great show
/ OF JOINTS and cuts and ribs and steaks and
| chops, You feel pang of something like dis
| appointment at having to fall back after an
resistance.
This Is precisely what happens at one of these
PUFI0 tt "0tt@"t exhibitions: the world seems
an aIl before you IN the shape of hats and bon
nets; nut when you get over the glamour of
the gut and ilagree novelties" which
are nothing more than a few theatrical ef-
! Iects turned loose, you find the staples are
T.
hIgh TINS season, the brim straight or if if is n
bonnet, forming somewhat broad high
poke-the "calash' shape modified The
"MandeyllIe' is the largest hat of this Kind
IL Is IN black or wine-cOlored velvet. with a
silver cord around the crown, pearls or cord
upon the edge of the brim, and an enormous
plume OF soft white curled ostrich feathers.
winch accentuates the size of the hat and tbe
helght OF the crown. The name may be com
pimenlarY to the beautiful Nlsc0untess who
& - i"a0us LOT OF the SIZE ana picturesque style of
her hats' Inc most iady-like poke is Of solid
lclNet IN any shade OF color black and grey
being the most popular; the brim edged with
gOlt cora, ana Z long scarf of black or X hite
lace lalG pam over the brIm and forming
long brides or strings which are fastened with
small pins of hammered gold or gilt: but they
do not tarnish. The lace is handsome. white
or black Spanish guipure, and though not
costly, does not look cheap Velvet NAV bn
quickly arranged in folds and with a large
buckle and no other trimming needed: but
usually wing and group of ostrich tips are
added.
COlored velvet bonnets look well when trim
med with velvet flowers and leaves beautiful
ly shaded IN the color and finished with lace
or strings. Feathers and flowers together are
mistake. The small capOte and all the old
shapes reappear in bonnets, the principal diff
ference observable is the rise" on the crown
of the hats. Plush is used for the ''pressed"
bOnnetS and hats: those that come blocked
and covered, ready for trimming. and are
made and sold like cottage furniture by the
hundred dozen, but it is rarely seen among
the special and individual styles. old blue,
Dlack, or gray velvet bOnnets are sometimes
very effectively trimmed with a group of
feathers self cOlored and a scarf OF Eastern
design, composed of flexible gold net work
crossed with a silken stripe, narrow and in
alternating colors. But OF these there are
not many duplicates. Ottoman ribbons are
much used, and a new style of pompon forms
cluster of spiked leaves made of chenille.
Inc httle girls carry OFF all the hOnOrs this
season so lar as picturesque headgear is con-
ceThed; F0r their benefit the old fashioned
calash has been revived; the large soft crown
Is made IN ottoman satin: the cabrOlet brm
is in velvet, the garniture is a row of looms of
narrow Ottoman satin ribbon laid diagonallv
on the velvet, and Il large group of ostrich
feathers set high against the crown, but curl
ing over the edge of the hrim. These are prin-
cipally made in white and strawberry or In
dian red.
SLEEVES.
This distinguishing feature of the dress de-
serves 4 separate paragraph, for the reason
that II presents, perhaps, the most destinct-
ively novel ideas and marks the difference
between the new and the Old-the fashionable
and the unfashiOnable-the artistic and the
commOnplace-more than other parts of the
costume; and this is true of coaks and ont
side garments as well as mere gowns" Two
years ago French dressmakers dealt most
contemptuously with the full sleeve. 1t was
an English aesthetic invention and Would
never be accepted" Ladies who had brought
home dresses with these obnoxious append
ages had them taken out and replaced il was
sti'l WIFI the usual SIeaLl- Ike cOUtiUUHfiOus
But the French dressmakers over the water
seem TO nave accepted the situation and en-
phasIzed it. 1t has been stated many times i'm
these letters that the sleeve is of the greatest
Importance in giving grace and distinction
to handsome dresS-tO the general ensemble
of the figure. This can be seen bv aDy one
who VIII take the trouble 10 study historical
ana antique costume. and il is one of tho
secrets of all women who have been success
ful in the art of dress. The coat sleeves
De4a$ us latest career about thirty-iiye years
ago, and has maintained its ascendencv with
shght lrruptlons IN favor of puffed and s'fiow-
ing and "angeI' sleeves ever since Ii is
useful, but commonplace, and if well shaDed
and room enough allowed over the elbow and
at the top of the arm for free movement eN-
cellent for the street and evening wear But
1t Is not picturesque and not distinctive: if
acquires a certain amount of ''style'' OF
rigid and severe kind by being mounted hiph
on the shoulder, but it is never made distinc
tive or picturesque or capable of much yaria-
tiOn until fulness IN some way has been i'm
parted 10 IT,. rms Is one of the reasons for
the introduction of the lace sleeve for evening
wear, and the getting rid of the sleeve alto
gether from evening dresses. But this last
device Is found impossible with the present
fashion OF high and very short shoulders
The length OF bare arms and the exposure of
its hollow and the socket in which il moves
destroys everything in the shape of illusions
and reveals too much of the machinery of the
human form to give the Imagination achance
to consider 1t divine. Nothing can be con-
celVed more VulgariZing than such a disDlay
m
WoulQ SUBJECT herself to the comments she
would naturally excite without having passed
through an experience that would render her
indifferent to the impression she would he
likely to produce.
4 well authenticated story is told of a
fashionable married weman-not beauty.
but with superb arms-whO in ''fulT' evening
dress, bust exposed and arms barred 10 tho
shoulder. left Il private party to ..see'' a
French ball, lust for fun" with "A Young
unmarried man who was her cavalier for the
evening. The license of the dancers and the
sort OF fun she saw made her feel that she had
gone too far and done perhaps an imprudent
thing, so she endeavored to beat a hastv re-
treat. Near the door she encountered a man
in full evening dress, a stranger. who slapDed
her familiarly on her white flesh making AT
the same time an insulting remark Before
the words were out of his mouth his burlv
form was stretched on tae floor f,v vol
directed blow from the hand of the gentleman
in attendance. But who was most to bameg
The brute who simply acted out his own
coarse instincts. or the lady who so misrepre-
sented the refinement, the intelligence the
purity of her sex and station as 10 be mis-
taken for one of its most degraded examples
! have told this story with great reluctance,
simply because girls and young married wO
men carried away by the education they re-
ceivc, the admiration they excite. and the
license accorded in some circles, or to some
daring leaders in their world, which thevim-
agine is the world of fashion, become confused
in their own ideas of what is right and modest
and lifting for good woman and follow a bad
bpftpT n
stincts and sOunder Judgment
The newest sleeve consists of the revival of
one that was very fashionable forty wears ago
at a time 'spenceFs" were in fashion and also
braiding and braided embroidery as orna-
mentatiOn. It is arranged as a series of falls
or ruflies, one above another, and is not only
susceptible of graceful and diversified effect
but adapts il elf to the present cut of the
bodice, and adds much TO its distinction
Epaulettes, stuffed rOuIedas, bows of ribbon
win ENDS, ornaments connected by cords
with others upon the waist, are all employed
70 decorate the top of the sleeve and emphasize
the brevity of the distance-three inches-be-
tween the top of the arm hole and the stand
ing collar at the throat.
The difficulty in cutting a sleeve is to get
sufficient length over the ton Of the arm To
make II easy and free in movement and to do
tins II is absolutely necessary to have some
fullncss.
Of course some ladies and some dressmakers
VIII nave as little as possible; others who un-
derstand how to dispose of it, Law it in diago
nal folds, which are brought together on The
inside Of the arm toward the front and are
finished with soft rOsette of silk or ribbon.
Satln duchesse, the new radzimer silks. rich
brocades and velvets yield gracefully to such
gentle manipulation.
Inc terraced sleeves are better adapted to
lace ana thln evening materials-tulle gauze
ana the like-but lovely effects are produced
IN embroidered India silks and nuns yelling
ana also in Canton crepe, which tends itself
especially to softly falling effects,
'PRETTY ARMS"
girl of Il. who signs herself with the head
ing 10 this paragraph, writes an appealing |
ltlle letter asking for advice, and recting |
reasons why she should wear short sleeves o. |
sleeveless evening dresses; the principal one
Of which-in fact, the only one-is that she |
has pretty arms and wants to show them
Oh. "Pretty Armsh-dO you not know that |
lovely white arms are much more longed for |