The Indianapolis journal., 1883-05-31
IN THE SoUDAN.
Ride Through a Wilderness to the Upper
Nile Region.


Nile Region.
Khartoum Correspondence London News
The Arabs OF the desert are of a dark bronze
shade, some almost approaching to black, but
there is nothing of the negro type in their
sharply-cut features and many of our guides
and camel men were strikingly handsome.
With scant drapery about their loins, they
march or ride proud and erect each man be-
ing armed with lance and shield, or long
two-edged sword. The hair is worn in most
peculiar fashion, with a crown tuft on the
top of the head and then left to fall on either
side to the shoulders at the back. The head
dress and features of these Bshareen Arabs
reminded me greatly of the profile paintings
on the walls of the ancient tombs of Sakarra,
Luxor and Thebes. Some recent travellers
have fancied they have found an affinity in
their language to that of the ancient Egypt
ians, and it has been suggested that this now
half-savage race may thousands of years ago
have sent their pioneers by the bed of the
Nile to people and settle in upper and lower
Egypt.
The first water station brings one to the
gate OF the mountains, which stand around
the desert And such mountains Bold
jagged and split with deep gorges and ravines
filled with dark, mysterious shadows. For
days we toiled through succession of basins,
and over stony bottoms that would seem to
offer serious impediment to the apparently
soft, velvety-gloved feet of our camels; but
pointed edges or roughly-covered powders
were alike passed over without inconveni-
| ence or lameness. From clefts and hollows
dried-up desert grass struggled for life We
had the thorny acacia (mimosa( through
which, if not careful, we were dragged by our
| pamplS IN the dpfrinQnt of flash anI
ing. Sometimes isolated rocks would rise in
the glare like fortresses of medinval struc-
ture. Sometimes huge powders, tossed hther
and thither, we're scattered like giant idol
heads in all directions. Again, conical blocks
seen in the vapor of the dis
a village lay in front. Seemingly terrible as
was this wilderness of rock, mountain and
stone, there was nothing to be apprehended
from the Mahdi or his follow
ers, Imaginative correspondents have
actually described encounters that
have taken place between the rebels and the
Egyptian troops in the desert between Soua-
kin and Berber Such have never occurred.
The only people to be met with en- route
were travellers, or q caravan, carrying mer-
chandise under an escort of Bshareen Arabs,
having Khart0um for their destination, or re-
turning from that grand capital of the Black
Country" These Arabs are to all appear
ances favorably disposed toward the govern
ment of the Khedive, and it stands to reason
that they should be, for they are gaining
largely by the hire of their camels, there be-
ing a continued movement between Souakin
and Berber and thence by the Nile further
south to Soudan
Here and there, on the wooded slopes near
water stations feathered and four-footed
game were to be met The first consisted of
turkey bustards," sand pigeons and grouse,
some OF which our party shot for the benefit
of the mess. The second were gazelles
There must have been hyenas or iaekals
about, though we saw none, but the sepe-
rated remains of camels that lined the desert
tract showed where they had been feeding.
For instance a head might be found many
PAGES from the body, and the legs many
yards from either. | may mention here that
the detachment OF troops that followed
'Nordenfeldts," under command of
Captain #. Walker, had kid carried off
from them just before daybreak, either by a
leopard or lion, at the second water station
out of Souakn. | am inclined to believe
that it was the former, as lions are ex tremely
rare in the Berbereen desert, though ii is said
they are to be found between Khartoum and
Berber. Once out of the mountains, and at
great intervals between the wells not living
thing was to be met with. Plains of sand
and stone lay blistering under the sun. ST.
lence and desolation quite oppressive
reigned supreme.
AT length we reached the welcome shelter
of the oasis Of Auab, where two deep wells
sunk in solid rock gave an abundant supply
OF good water, and luxuriant acacia trees
gave shade from scorching sun, somewhat
hotter than burning July day at home.
Encamped amidst the foliage was a consider
able portion of the tribe of Bishareens, under
"sheikh." They had on inquiry. little
knowledge OF the Mahdi or his movements
and less interest in them or his career. A