Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-06-29

sOLslsts IN the exceeding 1neness of the pleat-
ilss' ,s tne erilnped pleatlngs which are made
into tuii ruches, and the great quantity OF
very narrow ribbons used To ornament -fafa
and lawn party dresses.
W ME the whim lasts there is a new indus
Try lor some clever girls and women in FASH
ioning the clustered loops, bows and roseftes
out OF two or three shades or contrasting
colOrs OF the very narrow satin ribbons and
arranging them for the ornamentation of
skirts, sleeves, b0dices. or as epaulettes unon
the shoulders. Upon one short dress for A girl
OF less than five feet high over four hundred
yards NEARLY a quarter of a mile) of narrow
iioDon Is said to have been recently expended
a vast amount of work is also put into ruch-
ing lfrayed OUT, made very soft and thick.
INTO shlrflngs, and, above all. into embroi- :
oery. All nigh class modistes have now what
are known as ''natural embrOlderersr in their
pay, or upon their stan of work, who will exc
cute TO order any design, with or without a
pattern, ana produce some exquisite effects.
COUNTRY DRESSING.
There is rather a curious contrast between
the dressing of those who leave the CITY to 90
INTO the country, and the visitors from the
country who wish to show that they are not
DeMnd the times I'm regard to fashion. The
distinction Is chiefly one of color Country
cousins are given TO color of a somewhat
cruue ana startling kind, and accept the state
menlS made by interested persons in regard
TO fashionable shades and tints and genuine
ness of materials. They are also ant to unite
poverty OF fabric with showiness in the trim
tiilliS- MtiilC tue GittSS OF CIV neOnln who
afford to go into the country and stay there.
pursue quite an opposite policy, choosing
quiet, good materials without. perhaps, anV
trimming at all, and fail utterly TO represent
style as II Is understood among their rural
neighbors.
The polonaise costume seems to be the ia
vorite one for the country. barely belted
down over skirt of contrasting color. The
polonaise may be grey, blue or bronze WOOL
or 1t may be of chintZ or Powered s2tteen, but
it is always made with the apron 'front.' round
or pointed; If the latter, crossed to one side,
and never open in front, which leayes the
skirt exposed and is only admissible
in the case of a coat and much trimmed skirt
n great deal of embroidery is put upon the
dresses prepared for the country, especially
upon suits of pOngee and lawn or camhric
The embroidered trimming is not confined to
narrow ruifling. There is usually one piece
of houncing wrought for the front of the
dress which is half a yard in depth, and this
does not form the short apron, but occuDies
the intermediate space below It, and is often
by an equal depth of embroid-
cry upon the hips, which is draped uD in
paniers. White lawns are masses of what is
by courtesy called "needlewOrko though if
the OrnamentatlOn was executed with the
needle one dress would cost a small fortune
Not only are the fiOunces made of embroidery,
but the basque is cut from it in the piece, so
that the dress is entirely covered" with it,
The most unbecOming toilets are the large
checkered and plaid suits, and there aremany
OF them. once In long while a checker
board dress and woman who can wear it
may be seen, but lt is so rarely that it would
be blessing if the rigid designs were relega-
ted to the stone age. where they belong.
The wafer large spotted designs are
favorltes for pOlonalse dresses, the skirts be-
ing made of the plain material in the dark
color. A dark-blue cotton or wool wafered
with dull has dark-blue skirt trimmed
with two Killed fiOunces. The apron polo
nalse is belted down with dark red leather or
dull sateten,a and the straw hat and its feathers
are all of the same shade, which is not con-
spicuOus. Brown upon ecru makes a good
and is accompanied by brown
straw hat, the two shades combined in its
Red or blue waters upon cream grounds are
used in cambria for the''hOlok ee dresses copied
from the Sandwich Islands. They are simply
low frocks gathefed into square yoke of white
needlework and tucking and are made with
close or full sleeves of lawn, the latter slightly
gathered into frill of needle work. They
hang loose from the yoke, are not belted in
and make very cool and pretty indoor morn
ing dresses.
THE ART ELEMENT IN DRESS.
One of the most useful purposes that deco
rative art has served in the household is in
to women of refinement, taste and
large means the place that it may occupy in
iress. he worst thing about the ordinary
dress of women is the eternal procession Of
rubbish that it involves-the gewgaWs the
worthless hippery, the waste of money in
1lmsy pretences, and the massing together of
hCdpo VI pCucClCSo obul W llIiOuG ODlecG or DIR
pose, without character or dignity IT ought
10 be more of an object to dress a beautiful
woman than house, and would be if ideas in
lress had permanent value. But If they are
10 be succeeded by something else td4mOrrOW
md this removed the next day the results
must be as worthless as they are ephemeral,
But, already something has been done by
iRe art workers with the needle, by such
2oInen az Candaee Wheeler to restore en-
Droidery to its tormer high place in the dec
)ratiye world and to indicate its possibilities
n supplying new element in dress superiOr
% anything which at present exists, and
which to a certain extent takes dress out of
he realm of fashion and eleyates it into the
'egion Of art,
A gentleman remarked recently in An art
'oom where many beautiful stufrs were ex-
llblted, II should like my wife to have dress
If that exquisite silken tapestry, II she would
'nly keep it and wear it on Oocasions.'
what occaslQnst All oocasions?" asked a
roung girl, lapghingly.
''No, but sometimes, when wished it,,
Just try her." responded the querist 81
will guarantee her willingness. -
1t has become not common. hut at least. not
unusual m Tor ladies to buy pieces of the beau
I've ana embroidery purposes and
combine them with satins or
With the sIlken stqfss with plain or shaded
ground. These fabrics are not known outside
| small circle. They are made ex-
'ressly - as foundation for art
ieedle work and decorative designs They
ire manufactured from original suggestions
md ideas furnished by the Louis c. Tiffany
society of Decorative Art and with the ex
;eption Of one thin fabric known as siboltinp''
10th, WHICH IS manufactured only by one
lrm IN switzerland, are all made in America
one who has not seen them, and who did moi
Lnow the facts in regard to them, would he
leve that they were the production OF Ameri
an looms, for they can he compared with no.
hing but some Of the old Japanese manufac-
ures and the host productions of the hand
o9ns an France in their palmiest days.
The tapestries are very soft and rish silk
through and through, the patterns inwrOught
n gold upon cream or upon olive, with ffne
black or dark hrown lines imperceutihIv
woven in the warp and only visible as imparf- |
ng certain character to the design Thera
S silk canvas fifty inchss wide, as are the
apestries in cream: rose pink, old or male
,old, olive ana combination shades which "a
more color than one would believe j. ,,oseiS,
0 put into Wovea fabric, ThpT can he COM
oared TO nQth.ng but specimens Of old Veni-
!ap siass, dark or only pale looking at first
lBht; Dut Wnlch catch and reflect every rfy
i color when held to the light,
'Ihey are like the mist on the KaatskiIls.r
emarked young lady.
" 1T lmprisons the fairest sunsets" said an
The "boltingn cloth referred to is vo,.v in
erestlng. 1t Is perfectly transparent sillren
abrlc, as fine as ChambeTy gauze; as strong
s network of steel. 1t is called boiling cloth.
ecause u is used in the process of bolting
ANUS VI nit UOuEs DtlQ& J0e OQlV thin |
aDrfc made that will stand the strain. A set |
l curtains have recently been designed. and |
re not yet completed, for Denver the inte- |
a9T. loT ones embroidered on this misty silken /
elllng; the outer ones on rose tapestry ex- |
ulsltely shaded. The design for the interior |
onsfsts of open roses, dropped rose leaves and /
atnral foliage; and for the tapestry Psyche |
merging from the cocoon, q drift of milk |
reed blossoms sprInging after her. a new
loon ana full moon, the latter with water
lies fioating at the base. These curtains will |
heir destination.
A thick diagonally corded silk is sprinted on
ne warp and IS reversible. 1t has an exceed- /
lgly beautiful clouded effect.
But the rarest of all fabrics is one known as
good for belief, 1t is a thick
tu1 with corrugated surface, which looks
II IL were hand made, and Is about a quar-
.r o. an inch through on the roughened edge
sollu SIX. II Is an imperial fabric, and one /
ssoclates 1t at once with procession of Kings
MI the splendOrs of LOthair. In dregs 0f 4
line, with gold or cream, and in cold with /
rllnson or mahogany red it IS very rich; but 4
ne white (tlnted) is marvel of beauty and Il
not to be compared to any other fabric
18th which am acquainted.
it mas now been demonstrated that America
an produce art fabrics and art needlework
luai, Il NOT SUPERIOR 10 any that can be
'9nq elsewhere IN the world, and this au-
ann the public will have an Opportunity Of
lagIng OF the truth of this statement. A elr-
laar ~ sn9rtly 70 De issued sets fcsIa tRat /
ibition of Decortad NaedIe,~ay, ~
le 9, society * Amefican Embrottierers,,
NJ I, ee sIysn N Hew York city In November
IDs year. 1t is intended that this EXHIBIT
on shall call out and mass together such
Xamples OF this important form Of art worE /
3 will indicate and influence the direction Of
ecorative needlework in America. Among
ne names signed to this announcement are |
nose OF Mrs. Candaee Wheeler, Mrs. William
Loyt, and Miss Caroline Townsend. THE
ltention Is to form national society of orig
in needlework, and aay one who
qualified to join the rank2 IA this capacity
ill be cordially wecolned.
The exhibition viii be subsequently trans
'rred te such other cities as may care 20 have