The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1883-12-07
Trained Dresses.

The latest importationS of dinner and
evening dresses have trains of great
width arranged in a slightly bouffant
mass on the tournure, and falling thence
in straight lines to the end. Five or six
breadths of velvet are used in these
trains, while the wider satins have four
or five breadths. The top of such a
train is almost as full as the lower part,
and is caught up in two poufs that meet
in the placket seam and stand outward
sharply; the lower edge is gracefully
rounded, and is cut in leaves that fall
on narrow plating of the material,
with perhaps some lace laid on the
plaits. This train and the basque
must be of the same fabric, and it is the
fancy this season to make these two
parts of q plain material, usually velvet
or satin, and leave the vest and petit
coat front breadths as the base of all
ornament, such as lace fronts or
fiounces. embroidery or net, or the new
Oriental brocaded velvets where colored
pearl beads follow the designs of richly
colored flowers. These front breadths
are now very flat, and may consist OF
merely two wide breadths of satin with
the seam down the middle)-as, for in
stance, of black satin with dropping
loops of chenille all over it and jet
ball in each loop; this is handsome
with train of four white breadths Of
white satin. and the connecting seams
down the sides covered by lengthwise
satin scarfs edged with chenille and
lace, put on in gathers at the top and
curving gradually to a narrower space
at the foot. Black velvet trains of five
straight breadths have the front and
side breadths of white brocaded velvet
cut in points at the foot, and falling on
narrow plating of white satin. A
Titan red velvet train of six flowing
breadths has a plated vertugadin puff
of the same at the top of the front,
which curves into the sides of the train,
and forms the sharp butterfly puffs that
give bouffant tournure; the front be-
low the vertugadin is embroidery of
colored pearls on groundwork of pale
yellow satin. The basque of velvet,
with pointed neck and high-shouldered
sleeves, is pointed back and front very
sharply to rest on the vertugadin puff,
and has vest of the beaded satin.
For dinner dresses gray satin will be
much used, trimmed with an embroid-
cry of gray pearls done on net, and
used as smooth tablier breadths. A
novelty is the use of wide-striped satins
and Siciliennes for the basques and
train, while the front breadths are COW
cred with embroidery and lace; these
stripes are two or three inches wide,
and are in strong contrasts of colors.
such as black with white, rose with
gray, blue with white, etc. A low cor
sage accompanies many of the dresses
that have also high or open-necked
waist. These are made in very severe
shape. with sharply pointed fronts. and
either pointed back or else short
basque arranged in box-plaits that are
stiffly lined to make them stand out
well and show their Innings of satin,
which is sometimes trimmed with lace.
Lad es who have collarettes of real lace
have high plain basques of velvet OF
satin made with very little trimming,
and their real lace is basted on smooth
" in its own design. There are MANY
pearl and'crystal-beaded nets made UP
in soft full plastrons or longer vests,
edged all around with lace, and finished
at the top with a dog-collar of velvet,
on which rests row of straight lace,
and there IS velvet bow to fasten this
on the left side. This is used by young
ladies with pink, blue. or cream-colored
dresses of plain satin, or of ottoman
silk, or of the inexpensive surahs. Sim
liar plastrons and vests are made of the
black beaded net that has chenille de-
signs on it, to be worn with black satin
dresses; there are also transparent
sleeves and plain front breadths of this
net made of the material, which Is
about twenty inches wide. Lovely dra-
peries for ecru and tan-colored satins are
shown of golden brown net With che
mile flowers, detached for the greater
part, and border of foliage for garni-
ture.-Harper's Bdzar.