The Indianapolis journal. [volume] (Indianapolis [Ind.]) 1867-1904, 1883-04-14
WHAT DAME FASHION SAYS.

Summer and washing silks will be in high
vogue this year.
Combinations of gray with strawberry red
and shrimp pink are much admired, but the
latter requires lighter shade of gray than
the former.
Changeable silks are to be worn in combi-
nation with rich brocades. trimmings either
OF lace or variegated ribbons, cashmere en-
broideries, etc.
Sultan is the name of new dark red;
pensee rouge an odd shade OF purple; and
vert clair is another peculiar tint added TO
the long list of greens.
The Vatican back is very much used and
very much admired for indoor dresses of
Grape. nuns yelling soft silk, and for richer
dlnner-dresses in Ottoman silk and brocade.
1t is quite the fashion for ladies who have
fancy for doing their own dress-making to
go to fashionable dress maker, or better
still, to an artist who undertakes the con-
struction of 'tailor-make" dresses, and have
what is termined a permanent PATTERN
i. e., bodice of thick linen cut to the exact
measurement of the form and fitted perfectly.
This bodice is then all taken apart, ready to
serve as pattern for all future corsages.
Morning dresses still sparkle with jets, and
many OF the richest-looking new spring
mantles are literally covered with applique
and embroideries in silk and jet. Jetted
gimps are used in combination with elegant
jet fringes and pendant ornaments and cards.
Some of the new velvet gauzes have large
raised flowers outlined with jet, but it is
doubtful if this is an improvement. 1t
certainly impairs the soft effect which is the
greatest attraction for this handsome ma
terial, newly imported for mantles and over
dresses.
Very wide cape collars, after the style of
those worn by children, but made of richer
10 &l,..&
they are now worn by ladies with even sim
pie, everyday costumes. With deep cuffs to
match, collars in fact, have become very i'm
portant feature of the toilet There are, first,
the artistic Medici collars covered and edged
with pearl or jet beads; then there are mill
tary collars, adorned with gold braid or en-
broidery; following these are Vandykes, Able
Galants Stuart and nuns collars the last
named style being for mourning wear, of
cambria, with finely stitched hens.
The tournure has become an article of ne
cessity in ladies' toilets. 1t is taking large
proportions, and often appears now in the
shape of half skirt, coming down nearly as
far as the under petticoats. The most ele-
CANT are of black satin, with a deep founce
edged with Spanish or Chantilly lace. But
with light summer dresses it will be worn of
cambria or muslin, trimmed with Valen-
ciennes lace. Some dressmakers introduce
soft steel bands in the skirt of the dress it.
self to give it the support required. OF
course, these steel bands are concealed by
the puffs or fiounces of the trimming.
AS rule, spring dresses-at least those
for walking toilets-are made simply, the
skirts, very generally plated in double hol-
low plaits, just resting upon a narrow band
or fluting of different color round the foot
The bodice has basques, of any shape pre-
ferred, round or square pointed or cut into
tongue-shaped tabs. 1t is either of the same
material as the skirt or of different one
Costumes of light cloth, cashmere or other
plain wooden fabrics are mostly made with
out combination of any other tissue; but
when the skirt is of any plaid, striped or
figured material then the bodice is frequent
ly made of plain cloth or cashmere.