Morning journal and courier., 1883-11-16

| aooeA Bridal Vo1let-Sutts for Children From the New York Times.l
 Fancy jackets are gradually replacing plain ones. A very new style, which ii | quite complicated. exacts a somewhat mi mute description. The front part forms | vest. It is usually of 8 light quality ot 1 silk. and faces by means of nine syelets ! which are worked on either side. The
 vest. together with the front pieces of the | jacket, are taken in and sewed with the
 small side piece of the back On the low.
 CT border of the vest, under the hem, is g small whalebone. The vest is covered witt
 puffed chemisette, with buttons of the 1 material placed we'll apart. It iG of two pieces of goods, each twenty-two inches | long and sixteen inches wide. In the necA are four rows of shirriug about three inch.
 es deep. A second shirring on the lower l part of the jacket is about twice their | depth This is fastened to the inside of 1 the vest about two inches from the border.
 The front of the vest may be arranged in several ways, but it generally falls loose The tailleur shaped back has a small side piece. The basque falls full below the waist, ! to allow it to sit we'll over the putting. The l jacket may be trimmed around the lower border with ruff1e of Chantilly lace about six inches deep. The neck trimming is 1 formed of piece of bias satin five inches deep sewed to the outside of the jacket, and
 turned over. The front part, where the col. | lar is joined, is left high and straight. A l lace plating is under the collar. A small
 bias velvet collar, less than two inches deep, | is so placed as to be seen above the satin one. | Cloth and velvet jackets have cross-bands ] with dropping Russian ornaments. They are also embroidered in white or dark ground in black and gold or violet and silver sou 1 tache work. Round ornaments are also much in use for dresses. They are of beads and silver soutaehe work for use on dark oV1ika lad 1o1 fp1
 the colors of the suits are still more stylish than the fancy ones.
 Black toilets are still worn, but they are always of mixed fabrics. There are many
 ways of arranging combinations for these
 toilets. They may have polonaises with pan
 el trimming of velours "frappe," enriched
 with jet work, to be worn over plain velvet
 skirts with large pufings in the back, which
 are taken through the opening of the polon
 aiss. These dresses may also be composed
 of plain velvet and satin. The plain velvet
 skirt may have black satin and scarfs, which
 start from the velvet puff in the back and
 are fastened in front of the apron. Lace
 and dropping jet ornaments are intsrmixed
 with these scRrfs. The waists may be point
 cd and open over 8 black satin plastron
 worked with jet. Dresses combining black
 and gray, for half mourning wear, are of
 gros grain silk and satin. The skirt of one
 of these toilets is of gray gros grain silk,
 cut open in long, narrow bands to show three
 rows of black satin plaitings. The polonaise
 is also of gray silk and closes in the neck uu-
 der an old silver fastening. The fronts of
 the garment are lined with slate colore1 sat-
 in. They are raised and fastened quite back
 under two silver ornaments. The puff in
 the back is draped in irregular folds. In
 front of the waist is Fedora" gros grain
 siIk trimming, which forms a double pufffng.
 Under the lowest of these outings is black
 satin belt. The sleeves are trimmed with
 gray satin. Around the neck is gros grain
 silk frilI, lined with gray satin. Limousine dresses are in general use for walking suits.
 They either form the full dress or have plait-
 cd faille skirts.
 A bridal toilet may be made in the follow ing manner: The round silk skirt has an
 everdress of puffsd satin fastened down on the lower part under fine garland of orange blossoms. Below is 8 narrow satin plating. The oTstdress is very full against the silk skirt The back is 8 combination of satin and silk arranged in large flat plaits The unique consists of two very full satin dra- perias. One of these draperies is taken to the right side and falls in an apron, while the other forms & small panier on the left side. Between the two draperies is 8 bunch of flowers. The train is made of two breadths of white satin lined with silk Be- tween the silk and satin is an interliniDg of buckram The train falls in court mantle,
 
 plaits, which form shell-shaped trimming On the left side. The waist is pointsd, back and front, and surrounded by small cut beads in the shape of mulberries. The same beads form the buttons down the front. The straight collar is also bordered with beads. The sleeves terminate at the elbow, are tight fting, and trimmed to match the other parts of the waist. The hair is dressed with bunch of orange blossoms placed in the een- ter, in front, and long Maiines tulle veil Ia thrown over the flowers. It reaches to the waist in front and covers the train in the back.
 All colored beads are employed, such as ruby, emerald, garnet and chryso- lite, worked in designs of flowers and leaves on very rich fabrics. Embroideries are in designs of Rnemones, worked in amethyst beads, combined with leaves and ferns of gold. This makes 8 very beautiful and l showy trimming. Dinner and ball dresses are enriched with this bead work. A suita- ble combination in this style for gray satin evening toilet consists of steel and bronze | beads in designs of ferns and flowers. Ball and evening dresses for young ladies contin- l ue to bs of nuns yelling and "mousssline de 1 soie." They are trimmed all the way up the skirt with narrow founces bordered with lace.
 India shawls are still altered into various shaped garments. Those most in use are Inc ecarfs, with long square ends, trimmed with fringe or fur. The visite garment is pressed into service for tbis purpose. The l Skirt of the visite is raised in a small pufing. Against this pufing is piece of shaded silk l or embroidery, worked with many colored | beads, The fringe does not trim the lower l part of the garment, and the bordering is re- | served for the fronts. Beaded brandebourgs, with long pendants, trim the front of the l visite Striped shawls are also altered, but 1 only in visits shape, when the stripes should l run lengthWise.
 Chenille is used in many ways for bonnet l trimmings. Gold chenille is among the nov cities in this Iine Bonnets thus trimmed l have velvet strings and tufts of feathers. | Some of Ehese bonnets have chenille cover l inas in a brownish gold hue and are sur- rounded by wreaths of birds heads. In the 1 front of the brims, nestled among lace bows, l are two birds, arranged to form a kind of | feather bow. The strings and bows are in ! the color of the chenille. Small birds heads l ars not only used for bonnets, but they are | also arranged in kind of officers collar for l wear around the neck. They consist of IS l birds heads, mounted on form cut to fit 1 around the neck. Ornaments are also ar 1 ranged in different designs for trimmings and fastenings on skirts. Plain and ribbed l capotes are trimmed with plumes. White | and shrimp colored feathers are very effec- l tive on dark green and garnet hats. l
 The fashion for children's dresses remains | They are cut as they have been l for some time The only alterations are in | the details and trimmings. The paletot waist 1 and long waist still form the basis of all l childrens suits from the age of three to | twelve years. For little girls from three to l four years of age the following models of l white dresses are most suitable: One of | these is of white yelling, cut low in the neck, l h English style, and fitting tightly around l he body. It buttons down the back, is I outfed crossWise all around, and the putting 1 reaches up the skirt The short sleeves are | formed of piece of Ruipure lace two inches leep This lace also trims the low neck and 1 she lower border of the skirt The second | iress is of white cloth. It is high in the neck and is trimmed with lace. The very mort skirt is plaited The paletot waist 'ornns two plaits in the back and opens in | 'ront over gathered white surah plastron. l The plsstron terminates in plating eight | nches deep, which falls over the skirt. | Another style. suitable for little girl from ! i've 50 seven years Of age, is of light blue 1 nuns yelling, combined with dark blue | velvet It has two skirts. On the first are | wo gathered outings, placed one above tho ,ther. The second skirt is arranged in fiat | olaits and trimmed with dark blue ribbon | Telvet It is fastened down in front in 8 .ouble pufing of dark blue surah. The | ibben velvet is taken around this part of he skirt like . bordering. On the lower