Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1883-06-01

| Inc commons were DeBOtteu In excess In
wide surcoats, reaching to their loyns,
some in garments reaching to their heels,
close before and strowting out on the
side, 80 that on the back, they make men
seem women, and these they call by the
ridiculous name of gowns.
What is there in that description that
presents any striking points of difference
between the surcoat and the ulster of to-
day The ulster, that ungainly speed
retarding article that called forth the fol-
lowing dialogue between two young men
who, standing on street corner on q cold
night, see an object approaching.
First Y. M.-Bct it's man.
Second Y. M.--Bet it's a woman.
First Y. M. Hesitatingly. Mo. I'll
bet it's a-Well, l don't know as will
either. You SEQ it's only got one leg on
| its pants"
Knights wore these surcoats over their
armor, as is shown by the following lines
from the ga vowyage" OF King Arthur ;
"Gay gowns OF green
To hold their arndr clean,
And keep 1t from the Wet
Until the close of tho seventeenth CEN
tury the surcoat or gown was as common,
to men as to women, and the widest ex-
travagances were indulged in, and their
shapes and style, were complicated
enough to have put to her wits end a
modern dressmaker. These gave way
among the younger people to the all but in
decent dress of the Court Of Henry Ill.
OF France, consisting of the doublet and
hose. These costumes were handled by
the ''Parson" in Chaucers "Canterbury
Tales" in language more expressive than
elegant.
Chaucer, in describing the characters
with whom he has dealt throughout the
poems above alluded to, gives descriptions
OF the characteristic costumes OF the time
Q32S- 1888:
| Of the Sergeant at Law lie said
''lIe rode but homy in a medley coat,
Giit win a STINT OF SIX with bArfes small.
The miller stands next in the list
| ''Ani yet he had a thumb Of gold pardie,
white coat and blue hsOd weared he."
The squire, representative character
OF the time, was thus described
.short was his gown, with sleeves long and wide
Well could he sit on horse and fare ride"
Concerning the costume of the clergy,
the poet had not much to say. Had he
lived in this day and generation, his pen
might have boen put to paper to describe
certain of the latter-day divines who adj
vertisc their calling through the medium
of a black coat buttoned close underneath
CHM after tho style OF tho army chap
lain. The only one whom he deigns to
notice is the friar, of whom it is record
cd {:
| 'FUr there was he not ike cloistefer,
WIN threadbire cope ~ IA u poor scholar,
| But he was like muster or pope;
OF double double wursted was MS semicore,
That rounded Was ds a uell out OF press"
The merchant, who in all ages Of thu
world has been representative citizen
is put down i'll this manner:
"a merchant WAS there with forked beard
In motley, anu nigh upon his horse he sat,
Upon his head u tlandlsh beaver hat,
His boots clasped lair and fctisy'
OF the Land Steward the poet said
"a long surcoat of persc (bue) upon he had
And by MS side he bear rusty Dla de-"
The doctor
"ln sanguine AMI pcrse lie clad was all,
Lined with taiIata and sendal tnne silk.)
The remainder of the fair company tina
are pertinent to the purpose of this arti
Gle are. grouped and described in the fol
lowing manner
"An haberaasher and a carpenter,
A webbe and dyer and tapiscr,
: Were with us. exc clothed in one livery.
Full fresh and new the gear y'picked was:
Their knives were ychaped not with lrA5s,
But all with silver wrought, full clean and well
Their girdles and their pouches every deal"
The following lines in the same connec
tion serve to show that this was the habi
of the citizens:
"Wcll seemed each OF them fair burgess,
\ To sitten IN guild hall on a dais,
. Ever each for the wisdom that he can,
Was shape for 10 be al Alderman"
The costumes that abounded during Al
q these years were composed of the riches
i possible materials for both men and won
. Ell. Brilliant colors predominated, an
, precious gems of all sorts were eagerl
{ sought for as ornaments.
With the rise of the Huguenots in Franc
and the Puritans (or later the Round
: heads) in England began the revolutio
n in the manner of dressing. 1.-The pur
a tancal dress Of Cromwells time write
;. Plancher, differed more in the absenc
q of ornaments and the gravity Of cole
v than in form from those of the reign
. Chrrles /.
q This puritanical idea holds sway still
q Those who to-day are most admired {
q tasty dressers are generally the ones vii
/. dress with the least effort toappear flash
r. and seem plainest. In by-gone ages bot
q men and women wore corsets. They sti
f continue SO to do. Some people may n'
Il believe this statement, but there is
/. class OF brainless fops who still take
ff pull at their own corssts.