Northern tribune. [volume] (Cheboygan, Mich.) 1875-1885, 1883-05-12
Fashion Notes.

New fancy grenadines are heavily
brocaded, and closely resemble bro
caded silks and satins.
In straw hats and bOnnets the color of
crushed raspberry is produced in deli
cate shades closely resembling periwin-
kle pink.
pensee rouge an odd shade OF purple;
and vert clair is another peculiar tint
added to the long list of green's.
Double or single pipings Of satin, in
white and colors, braided in floral de-
signs and deep-pointed edges, are used
as headings to other trimmings upon
dinner and carriage costumes.
| 1t is quite the fashion for ladies who
have a fancy for doing their own dress
making to go to fashionable dress
maker, or, better still, to an "artist"
who undertakes the construction of
''tailor-made' dresses, and have what is
termed permanent pattern"-i e., a
bodice of thick linen cut to the exact
measurement of the form and fitted per-
fectly. This bodice is then all taken
apart, ready to serve as pattern for all
future corsages.
The mania for braiding dresses, and,
for that matter, for braiding of every
description, seems to be greater than
ever. 1t appears strange that no simple
fashion can be adopted without being
carried to extremes and hackneyed
within three months. Braiding and
beading both look well if used spar
ipgly; but an entire dress running over
with ornamental vines and leaves, ber-
ries, bugs, birds, and blossoms put on
Unfortunately from throat to skirt
hem is sight to see, and is in utterly
bad taste.
Mourning dresses still sparkle with
Jets, and many of the richest-looking
new spring mantles are literally covered
with applique and embroideries in silk
and jet. Jetted gimps are used in COM
bination with elegant jet fringes and
pendant ornaments and cords. Some of
the new velvet gauzes have large raised
flowers outlined with jet, but it is doubt
full if this is an Improvement 1t GER
tainly impairs the soft effect which is the
greatest attraction for this handsome
material, newly imported for mantles
and overdresses.
Among the list of summer fabrics are
pale colOred linens, silk gauzes, sateens,
exquisitely tinted veilings, delicate
French muslins, French foulards, al
ways popular in Paris, Louisine silks,
French organdies, cambrics, and lawns,
in all the beautiful new shades. There
are also novel Pekin gauzes, with col
Ored velvet and satin figures upon
diaphanous ground, and lovely tinted
muslins, quite in the jardiniere style, to
be made up for lawn parties, q la shep-
herdess, with Vatican drapery, and lace
and ribbon by the league, cascaded all
over the dress.
Ribbons lined with colored satin are
much used as strings, and are found
very useful and effective for the ribbon
roses" employed as trimming upon
many bonnets, instead of flowers or
feathers. The colors of the two sides of
the ribbon must harmonic well, or the
good effect is lost. Sapphire blue and
silver, cloud blue and primrose, ruby
and pale pink, Russian green and ecru,
and violet and pale mauve go admirably
together. Black lined with golden yell
low, coral, or crimson makes effective
roses, as do also green plush ribbons
faced with cherry, giving the effect here
OF q nest OF MOSES.
Very wide cape collars, after the style
of those worn by children, but made of
richer laces, are found so'dressy and be-
coming that they are now worn by la
dies with even simple, everyday cos
tunes. With deep cuffs to match, col
lars, in fact, have become very impor-
tant feature of the toilet. There are
first the artistic Medici collars, covered
and edged with pearl or jet beads; then
there are military collars adorned with
gold braid or embroidery; following
these are Vandykes, Able Galants, Stu
art, and nuns collars, the last-named
style being for mourning wear, of cam
brio, with finely stitched hens.
A new and very rich material for
wedding or reception toilets is Ottoman
velvet, plain or embossed, on a silk
ground This fabric comes in most ex-
quisite evening shades of pale cameo,
cream white, turquoise blue, Persian
mauve with both pink and silver in its
sheen, and hedge-rose pink; and also in
dark shades for dinner or carriage
dress, in olive, myrtle green, golden
brown, nuns gray, amber, royal blue,
and old gold. Another very handsome
novelty is silk gauze with Chine patterns
stamped upon It in very subdued tones,
the designs being borrowed from an
cient Gobelin tapestries and other ORR
entail tissues.
The ruche still gains ground, espe-
cially the chicoree and shell-plaited
styles, which are very much used in ev-
. cry width for short dresses. and for