Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-05-01
DRESSES OUT OF SEASON.
JENNY JUNE" ON THE INCON.
GRUITIES OF THE FASHIONS.

JENNY JUNE ON THE INCON
to GRUITIES OF THE FASHIONS.
m The Stores Implicated in the Fault
g. Circus Styles All the Rage This sea
- sOn-Electric Blue the New Uniform
. for the Wearers of Last Years Cadet
Is Blue.
NEW SORK, April 30.-There is no better evi.
- dence on the confusion and want of sense
/ tnat presldes over the dress affairs of women
/ than the growing failure to difTerentiate the
n seasons and associate with each on. some
d thing of the special charm which distinguishes
; 1t IN nature. In the spring delicacv of tint.
4 soft, gentle fabrics, and early flowers. For
! the summer, cool blues and white or bun in
= dlaphanous material; straw bonnets trimmed
= with lace or muslin and wild roses Then
r naturally the fall would bring TO us our darker
woods and dahla tints; and the winters fnrs
and velvets find their proper place.
But dress has now become-likc the bill Of
5 tare at big American nOtel-all alike all the
year round; everything on the bill of fare AT
the same time, and at all times: no select ion
: and no enjoyment. This profusion without
fitness or discrimination is what we have ar
rived at IN dress. We have tulle in winter and
VeiVet IN summer. We have big roses and
uOpleal leaves and high cOlOrS and thick bro
caues and heavy beaded trimmings and en-
broidered silks and satins FOR july. We have
low bodlces and bare arms with the ther-
mOmeter at zero, and high bOdices and thick
ruches with the temperature at ninety in the
shade.
1t does not meet the case to say that women
can make their own selection. and that il i
/ their own fault if they chose for summer
what they have worn in winter. Then some
where there must be dreadful waste, shame
1ul expenditure of time, capital. strength
ana labor, which might as well be put to bet
ter uses. But, in fact. when we say that
everything Is provided all at once and can be
/ n iufn In
we do not speak strictly according TO fact
when we say that ''eVerything'' can be found
on bill OF fare. We think SO and say so because
OF the variety and prOfusiOn, but very often if
you want the simplest thing, such as a bowl Of
goOd oat meal Cruel, you could not find il. nor
could money procure it for YOU. Precisely
SO ii Is AGAIN with dress. You can get every
thing within the limits of what haDpens to he
the craze of the hour. But little investiga-
ton VIII show how narrow these limits are
ana now barren of ideas, one thing being
merely an echo of another.
For example: \ lady who does her own
thinking decided that for a spring dress she
| would have fawn cOlOred satin surah with
| interior facing of soft shade of strawberry I
or apricot. Fawn is one of those fine neutral |
tlnts that are supposed to be ALWAYS in stock |
| and strawberry and apricot are the colOrs !
most fashionable this season. She visited three |
ot d me largest dry goods and silk houses (re-
| tal) IN the city of New York. and could NOT |
| succeed in getting plain satin surah or surab |
silks of any kind in these shades There were |
thousands of black mOngrel silks-shOt figured |
striped, checked, spotted. There were bro |
cades III suns, moons and zOdiacal signs. There !
! were pear shaped, heart shaped and melon |
shaped dGslgns-hgures beautifully wrought |
! but bold. detached, and looking more |
! IKE the separate parts of dessert
~cfacked WalnutS and green figs included. than |
/ the OrnamentatiOn of dress fabric There Il /
! only one consolation for the madness that /
| seems to possess the manufacturers and
| Wearers OF WOmen's clothing. and that is: il /
| cannot last. The laws that govern SUNNY
and demand forbid it. All thinking women
are sickened of the irrational methods bv
| winch their dress is governed, and though !
! they have not arrived at point of open re-
| belllOn, and do not even know how far or i'm
! what way they would like to be emancipated !
| from bondage that is not much one of /
! fashion as of trade, yet the time viii come
! when they will know what they want will |
! demand it, and will have their requirements /
met.
! CIRCUS STYLES.
The styles for the present season NAV we'll |
/ be denominated ''circus" fashions. They
make big show, and they range from the sinh |
! lime to the grotesquc. They revive the hump
| and fasten it in the middle of the back with
| sleeves to the outer garment like eyDanded
! wings. A much dressed woman used to be
} llkened to peacock, but peacock is a digni-
fled and solemn bird nOW-a-days beside the fe-
male JackdaW or par0quet with green and
| gold or many colOred plumage cooked un |
| there ana swollen out here, and with patches |
! of bright red and yellow all over bonnpts
and parasols are of piece with the rest of the
outfits. The cOlOrs which were formerly mt /
into the trimmings of the bonnets. and spar
Z w.
farlng moons, inverted scoops and the like
crown the wonderful superstructures of color
and form.
A few years ago the 'Gainsborough'' rein
trOduced created a new departure, and was
welcomed as an artistic acquisition to elegant
and others, not wholly unworthy copies from
famous historic models. and If there was
nothing original in them there was something
at least noble and picturesque. But this sea-
son has contributed so far nothing that is
worthy of mention to either fabric or design
The hats and bOnnets are a modified tribe
mostly shOrn of their best features and left in
form that is neither protective nor pctur-
csque, while the trimmings are gildcd thistles
gIlded birds, stih gilded pompOns, gded ap-
pies and grapes-in short, a BaTmeCide feast
all show and glitter, but without any sweet
ness. satisfaction. or reality.
Trade in great cities is fast becoming n
demon, Juggernaut, that the public and
women especially, are sacrificed to- Last wear
parasols exhibited mOnstrOsities in the shane
of lunches of c0rdOns OF artificial flowers
Artificial flowers have been declining for sew
eral years. Is ii an evidence of the growth of
GOOD taste? sometimes one hopes that il is
Anyhow the fact remains and naturally
they nave accumulated. Thousands OF women
were deluded into paying a high price for
parasols decorated'in this tawdTy way. and
were so struck by the bad taste and folly If |
such an exhibition that they tore the things
on almost before they had been seen. This
season we have the highest and most promi-
nent colors, which have heretofore been used |
Slngiy, put INTO alternate stripes, blocked off
IN large checks, or combined in huge figures !
Ihese are the novelties. 1t is true ladies are
not ODHgeu TO DUy them. TheV can fall back !
on the Dlack surah trimmed with spanish !
lace, ana by looking they can find some pretty |
Styles IN ohene sIlk, IN spotted foUlards, in
pongee lined with shrimp pink or strawberry
llnls, ana some IN small pin checked silks | ;
which are Intended to match summer cos
TUNES. ~
Taking general look over the whole oro,rd
one can hnd nothing good that is new and | !
nothing new t0t is good. OF course there are :
MEL eAicePelods, i SO ll as technical qualities in the
q oTa 1
but even in these cases they are rarely adant1 r
ed as well TO form aad the special purposes Of ,
uIes9 lor women. laey might as well, or bet
Ter, nc hahglhgs or furniture coverings. or I
used as models for wal paDer althouqb even .
for these purposes hold detached figures. {
which bear no feiatiOnship to the materiai +
they decorate or the object il covers bnt SIM :
ply pit it as il were with small BOY connof ho !
considered desirable or as possessed of artistic q
value. The one good thing in this mass of il,
congruities and deformities isOthe wonderful :
blending of tints. the technral perfection Of ,
design in some of the summer silks. These :
are marvellous examples of the high excel | I
lence TO which mechanical prediction has been l
brought. Soon all hand labor will be of the :
past, but whether the world wAl really be I
richer. or its inhabitants happer,is Is doubt
full question. {
SOME NEW SPRING DESIGNS.
Electric blue in silk and also in fine shawl
cloth is in great demand for costumes which
must be made complete, for there is so little /
in the way of contrast that looks well with |
this peculiar yet attractive tint which iseX- ! I
ceeulllSly becoming To chestnut haired I
blondes. Its fascination consists in its dark |
lights, If one may use such an expression.
which render it more striking and mulch more /
effective in the cheerfuness Of its asnerts than /
cadet (gray blue, peacock Or gensdarme biue |
1t Is lovely III a soft make of surah which has !
a twied finish, but is soft as India fou-
lard and brighter than the plain twiIIed sU-
rah. \ short dress of electric hlue silk is I
made with skirt plated at the back runIed
at the sides and draped in front. The edge of |
the SKIRT IS hnlshed with a number of narrow !
fine plaitings. The bodice fits smoothly over |
the hips, is very deeply p0inted back and |
'front.', put nat sharply cut, is open in front and
finished with narrow plaitings which stand mn | 1
from the neck and are finished interiOrlv with ! !
others OF fine lace. The fichu which accom- |
panles this is OF the same fabric, and fOmrs I
pleated cape with sleeves which are set high
AT the shoulder. The sleeves are more in ,
eHect than Iii reality, are not pleated and do / ,
not eonnne the arms, which show the pretty /
finish OF the dress sleeve below them The /
hchu Is not lined, and IL the pleatjngs ,
are line to match those upon the skirt the eT- I
feet is very good and the whole costume ex ,
quisitely light and delicate. With such a I
dress the bonnet. and, in fact, every detail Of
tne dfess, becomes matter of imn0rtaDce ( /
White and black straws are TOO bald and |
crudc. straT TO match, faced Wilh electric | ,
DIue YelEet ana trimmed with feathers of the .
same shade, is suitable Or the bonnet maI ,
be OF SILK, matching the eostume-with shirred
crown and puned brim, the garniture rjhhon
or the SILK Itself made into bows and ono Of | I
the large strawberry SPRAYS which combine | ,
delicate foliage with the white E..som and I ,
the green and ripe fruit. Thls, If Of fine natu-
RAJ RAJ tlnts' FURNISHES good little touch of con