The new North-west. [volume] (Deer Lodge, Mont.) 1869-1897, 1883-01-12
A MEXICAN CITY.
Interesting Description of Vera Cruz and
Its People.
Corr. n. 0. mes-De1nocrat.

SCShC0 W uS IaaL We Hau Decn making use
of the tabled seven-leagued boots, and with
one stride had passed the boundaries of the
New Werld to find ourselves in some sleepy
old town of the far East. Truly Oriental
were the narrow streets and their long rows
of fat-roofsd stone buildings, with the glare
of tropical sun upon them, before each
window . tiny balcony protected them from
the noontide heat by white awnings; still
more sossthe domes of many churches and
the Moresque carving of public buildings,
but more than all else the vision Of palm
trees that greeted us, as after leaving the
Custom House, We passed through the
square. We had been prejudlced against
Vera Cruz in consequence of the unfavorable
accounts given by other visitors, associating
it in our mind with many things that are pc
culiarly obnoxious; with vomlts, ,sea-sickness
and scorching heat, but we must gay that all
turned and that our first impressions were of
a pleasant character. Perhaps It was the
livelness of Orizaba, of which we had caught
a glimpse in coming from the ship, that had
bewitched US, throwing halo of beauty
around everything that met our gaze, or per-
haps Is was a somewhat childish delight in
what was new and strange. However that
may be, the day spent IN this quaint little
place was enc of unalloyed pleasure. We
enjoyed the hospitality of a Mexican friend
and merchant of Vera Cruz, and have every
reason to preserve a lasting memory of the
kindness with which we were received and
the interest taken to show US as much of the
place as was possible in so short a space of
time. The visit gave US our first insight
into Mexican home life, and the csrlsus ex-
perience of that day seemed more like a
strange dream than living reality.
There Is but one principal street in Vera
Cruz. and that is vast bazar filled with
stores from one end to the other. As a gen.
eral thing the people live above their places
of business, and it is a great change to leave
the scenes of trade and noisy huckstering be-
low, and ascend TO purer atmosphere of
quiet and comfort on the story above. Very
refreshing, after the dust and glare Of the
street, was the first view of the cool, shady
corridor, with its wilderness of tropical
plants in fancy pos and urns, and the profu-
sion of orchids hung around the wall. We are
reminded of the oriental love of brilliant
colors by the parlor, which looks gay and
yet not gaudy, its stone floor painted green
with border of deep red, while the heavy
old fashioned doors are decked out in blue
and gray. Above the windows and doors
are large semi circular transoms Of stained
glass which let in ''dim, religious light"
and add tp the room an element of rich an.
tiquity delightful to all artists soul. After
having been RECALLED at IL o'clock with a
Mexican breakfast consisting of every strange
connection that the culinary genius of man
could devise, and in which chile played the
most important part, we INDUCED in siesta
aud then started out to see the town. In
order TO do this we availed ourselves of the
only line Of street cars in tn. city, for it is a
singular fact in this land of contradictions
that, whereas in the City of Mexico it is con-
sldered highly expedient for ladies to avail
themselves Of every species of vehicle in
which to be transported from one place to
another, in Vera Cruz the opposite rule holds
good, aud the people dispense almost entire
ly with carriages, either walking or patron
iZing the mere democratic mode of convey
ance. The car we entered was lacking in
its most essential part-a top-and our SEN
sltlons were rather peculiar as we saw our
selves drawn along with nothing but the blue
canopy of heaven above us. The most
striking objects that we met were the droves
of burros, laden with every variety of pro-
duce, from heavy barrels of hay and corn,
and with their downcast heads and deliberate
jog-trot, looking the image of patient en-
durance. OF almost equal interest were the
sopilotes, In America known by the less
euphonious name of buzzards, which seemed
to be the tutelary geniuses of Vera Cruz,
lowering In dark clouds over the streets, or
perched in dusky masses upon the domes OF
the churches and highest edifices, the picture
of detection and brooding melancholy. Why
they should look thus is IN ystery to be ex-
planned only by the perversity of the buzzard
nature, for they are the most we'll protected
members of the community, being highly es-
teemed on account of their usefulness as
scavengers. A ride of about twenty minutes
past houses and stores, bearing strong fam.
lily resemblance to each other, brought us 10
the Alameda, a ridiculous excuse for q
square; seemingly constru cted for the ex-
press purpose of exciting the merriment oi
the public, so ludcrous an effect is produced
by It's ugly little fountain and stiff, wooden
benches. On one side is large building
devoted to that most aesthetic amusement oi
Mexicans-a bull fght-and we could not
help expressing wish that the day might be
near when this relic of barbarism would be-
come memory Of the past. We walked
around the narrow space inclosed by the
square for awhile, and Then returned home
III liiuc iOT d 4 " CioCh uiuhSI, aitti hutIn
we started out again to bear the music at the
Plaza del Armes, our friend promising us that
we should have Glance to see the whole
population of Vera Cruz in the course of a
few hours. Aud so 1t proved, for the square
itself was filled to overlooking, and on the
walk outside was dense mass of people, SO
closely packed together that one could scarce
ly break passage through. We had seen
much greater crowds at home during the
Carnival season, but what struck us with
surprise was the singular way In which these
people amused themselves. The whole null
titude, men, women and children, were tramp
ing around the plaza at fast trot, as If their
lives depended upon such performance;
and this not once but an infinite number OF
times, until ones brain almost whirled
while looking at them. With the weird,
sweet music Of the band ringing In our ears,
we fsncied that this might be the famous
Tarantelle dance.
-Here Nelson Fell"
Hdrper's Bo5ar.
Every year the Victory, Lord Nelson 3
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