The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1883-09-29
IN. Y. Evening Post.l
Fashion Notes.

very fine and soft. They are long and but
tonless, embroidered with a spray of silk
flowers at the tops, and mould the hand and
wrist as well as any silk glove.
Plain dark velvets are to be much used for
ball wraps and opera cloaks. A superb
model on exhibition is made of very dark
shade of royal blue in long visite shape, en-
broidered in dark blue silk, and lined
throughout with palest blue satin. Another
wrap of dark myrtle green is lined with pale
primrose surah and adorned with dark green
ostrich feather trimming.
Braiding as a garniture seems to retain its
popularity, having escaped becomi ng COM
mon by the richness and elabora.eness of it's
patterns, the delcacy of its work, the COM
binations of satouche and cord, and the
beautiful effects of relief which had been
unknown hitherto, and which are obtained
by using square satouche which shows in
raised work over the material.
New French breakfast caps are made in
the Leonardo da Vinci shape after the style
OF the velvet riding caps worn last winter
Some of the most fanciful of these are
formed of gay Oriental foulard, run through
with long slender gold pins to hold the cap
IN place. Others are made of gold lace and
trimmed with spray or scarlet japonica,
and star Jasmine blossoms. A third style is
OF black Spanish net adorned with small
butterflies and tiny jeweled beetles.
From Boucheron, the great manufacturer
OF Partisan jewelry, has been received this
autumn some very beautiful and expensive
enameled and rolled gold buttons in won
derfnlly rich and unique designs, and also
buttons in graduated sizes or sets, which are
excellent limitations of rubies, emeralds, dia-
monds, and other precious stones. Many
buttons IN gold and silver fgree are of ex-
qulsitely delicate workmanship. With the
buttons of semi-precious gems formed into
leaves and flowers, come sash-buckles, belt
clasps, and lace pins to match
A new utility wrap has made its appear
ance which is very suitable for shopping,
traVellng,' and a protective covering from
the autumn rains 1t is of imported suiting
and will do very well, indeed, for an entire
dress, to take the place of skirt and ulster.
II hts the figure very snugly, and twelve
very narrow pleats reach from the throat to
the hem of the garment both front and back
Underneath these pleats behind is set a half
bell which goes around in front, and from
1T depends chateane attached to velvet
or leather shopping bag.
Partisan modistes are making up very
handsome carriage, walking and visiting
costumes with fiat peats set all around the
upper portion of the skirt, ending in the full
overlapping Buckingham puff so becom-
ing to slender people. Beneath this puff,
which extends all the way around to the
back drapery, are set panels alternating
with fiat killings. These panels are covered
with elaborate embroideries, immense palm
patterns in applique, beaded ornaments of
separate and special designs, or an eschelle
OF cords with handsome pendants on each
panel.
Worth has recently sent to leading house
IL this city variety Of graceful and elegant
carriage wraps, among them long Spanish
mantle, of black brocaded Ottoman silk
lined with palest primrosr surah, and trim.
med with cascades of real old Spanish
lace, eight inches wide. The lace is carried
around the foot of the mantle, headed by
wide band of jetted passementerie. An ex-
ceptionally handsome wrap in yiste shape.
hanging beside it, was made of black bro
caded velvet with sabot sleeves of silk chem
lille, covered with cut jet and lined with Bur-
gundy red surah. The visite was otherwise
adorned with deep chenille fringe, satin
ribbon in long loops and ends and large Jet
clasps.
The English walking coats known as the
Newmarket, made of sneather'' tweed,
hunters green or fancy basket cloth. and
fastened with silk cords and brandebourgs.
are quite as fashionable as ever this season.
These chic-looking coats are infinitely more
becoming to graceful figures than dolman,
cape or short vsite, setting off the form to
tne advantage. They have very often an
undervest or regular Louis XIV. waistcoat
of white corded silk or serge fastened down
the front with small silver buttons, style
very popular just now with young ladies
who affect the masculine in Dress The sty-
llsh 'Dorsay' polonaise of plain cloth In
dark monochrome or of cheviot in minia-
ture stripes and checks is also highly popu-
lar. 1t is worn over skirts of velvet. silk or
velveteen OF deeper shade than the fabric
composing the polonaise.
very stylish traveling-dress worn by a
youtnIul bride at Niagara lately is worthy of
note as model. The material was an Irish
poplin, soft and silky as ottoman, and of
rich dark laurel-green shade. The skirts
were attached to jersey bodice, the front
OF which was braided in military style in a
raised design. e., broad around the throat.
then narrowing gradually until it reached a
point just below the waist. The bodice fas-
tened down the back with tiny gold and
green enamel buttons. The close sleeves
were braided to the elbow and buttoned I'D
the outside of the arm. The skirt was laid
in kits, the broad pleats being long enough
to reach to wide scarf of dark green velvet
which was caught up over the hips. forming
back drapery also, being held at either
side with massive buckles of green and gold.
A velvet shoulder cape and simple cap of
velvet finished the costume.
There is quite rage this season for the
small French-cap bonnet and the tooue of
velvet or matching the color and material of
the costume Wall flowers or shaded velvet
geranlums are set in half-wreaths around
the edge OF the cap, or in one large cluster
at Inc SIDE, and an uptown mil'iner dis
plays some very pretty capotes with icelle
lace bordering the brims, and otherwise
trimmed with clusters of scarlet verbenas.
The adoption OF seasonable flowers has be-
come very general, an evidence of improved
taste, violets, corn flowers and lilacs have
therefore given place to the richer-hued
chrysanthemums, lauristinas, dahlas, mas
turtums and other autumnal blossoms.
Pretty gypsy bonnets are also exhibited.
made OF pale almond kid, adorned with
graceful wreaths of autumn leaves hand
painted upon the tiny brims outside; others
OF velvet show handsome wreaths of velvet
leaves OF brilliant coloring, set around til,
crown and again these diminutive head
coverings are completely hidden by punches
of purple and white grapes plums. apricots
or hazel nuts and leaves, the latter covered
with glittering vitrifcation resembling the
handiwork of Jack Frost.
An extremely beautiful Partisan toilet is
now exhibited by a Broadway importer as a
model OF true French art. The dress is
made OF white surah and white cashmere.
The silken bodice is cut square over the
breast and yelled with Renaissance lace.
beaded with milk-white pearls. At each
shoulder seam begins an embroidery of
small white silk roses with pale gold foliage.
which goes down each side of the bodice I'M
til 1t reaches the belt, where it joins the full
drapery of Grecian oyerdress at the right
side, the embroidery extending all the Way
round the tunic until it reaches the left side
In the back, where it is lost amid the soft
artistic folds of the drapery, which is held
by chain of Roman pearl beads linked with
gold. The long, graceful underdress is
plainly but elegantly finished with wide
band OF the silk embroidery worked close to
the edge all the way around the trailing
skirt. All the leading features noticeable in
the attractive ''artistic' costumes worn dur
ing the past season are intensified in those
imported this autumn. There is more DOS
tive style about them than in those we have
become accustomed to seeing during the
summer. For instance, many of the bod
ices are more decidedly antique in style, the
high, stiff fraises are more stately and eiabo.
rate, and the leg-o'-mutton, vandyke and
l.