The pioneer express. [volume] (Pembina, Dakota [N.D.]) 1883-1928, 1883-09-28
SUMMER s y 3 in II, FRANCE
Among Some Of the Picturesque Watering
Places at Which the Parlsians Take
Their Summer Outing.

"A New and Eminently French Novel With
Which Danes and Damosels Have Been
Willing Away Their Time.
TRouvnLs, Special Correspondence. Aug.
70, 1851 am on voyage Of investigation
along the coast, studying morals and summer
manners at French watering places. Thus far
into the heart Of Normandy have marched
without any great amount of impeachment, and
like it very much. Etre,at is place for
painters and respectable people who are hap
piest when they are gossipipg scandal about
their neighbors Along about the year 1910
three Partisan artists set out to explore the
channel coast on foot between Havre
and Dunkerque. The country was but little
known excepting to the native residents, and
the journey thus undertaken by our bold ex-
cursionists was real voyage of discovery,
which, in those days, was something really ad-
venturous. Before leaving, they agreed with
their artist friends at Paris that whenever they
discovered a neighborhood which seemed es-
pecislly rich in artistic motifs, they were to
mark with white cross the first house in the
village. Saint Adresse, where Sarah Bern
hardt has her country residence, was the first
place discovered, and it was marked as it de-
served to be; but when they reached Etretat
they were so impressed with the magnificent
view that they enthusiastically marked three
big white crosses on the first blank wall they
came across. This burst of admiration came
near costing them dearly. woman of the
place. who had seen the strangers marking the
house of her neighbor, ran over to warn him
that some deviltry was going on; the owner of
the house made such fuss about it that the
whole village was convinced that our three
painters were three wicked sorcerers; and but
for the majesty OF the law, repre-
sented in solitary gendarme, the
Parisans would have been stoned to death As
1t was, they were marched off to Monsieur lie
Marie, who was at last induced to give them
their liberty. Now Etretat fully deserved it's
three white crosses. Placed in the center of
some of the most wonderful scenery that can
be imagined, the old Norman village lies
stretched out in long line between two gigan-
tic cliffs. which jut out into the sea as though
to protect the little matched rooted houses all
overgrown with moss. Although it has been
nearly half century since it came under SUBJ
lection to Paris, and has been, 80 to speak,
converted into one OF the suburbs of the CAPT.
tal Etretat is still when seen from the sea, one
Of the most picturesque hooks on this coast
The scene has remained as nature made it, in
spite of mans attempt to improve on her
handiwork; but instead of the simple and
moving drama OF the sea it is now the comedy
Of the beach, made detestable very often by the
habit which so many American ladies have of
tlttle-tattling. The performance lasts for about
two months, and even the natives of the spot
take q part in it
THE INFLUENCE OF CIVILIZATION.
While the white cliffs Of Avail and Amont still
stand out against the constantly changing
horizon, and while the Aiguille still points
majestically straight upwards, the old fishing
boats are freshly painted and disguised every
year; the caloges, or fisherman's cottages,
are transformed into cafes and salons de
conversation: instead Of village women mend
ing nets, We see fashionable ladies embroider-
ing, reading and sketohng Formerly it was
the village folk who went down to the beach to
watch for the return of their mon with the in
coming tide. but now 1t is the Parisennes who
sit along the beach aud find beauty in half
naked, hairy breasted, knock-kneed gentlemen.
The old fishermen have become professional
bathers; tho lads of the village study painting;
mothers scheme to marry off their daughters,
aud the lnaidens dream of entering the Paris
cous-rvatore. All day long there passes a
procession Of donkeys, CARRYING parties Of
Passee to tho tChapelle do Bou-secours. There
is room for all who wish to traverse
the little tunnel which leads through the cliff
Of Alnont to the Chaudron, aud there is plenty
of cold veal, sausages, stale bread and bad
wines for all who like to go picncklng. Etretat
il, however, the village d'artist that is most
assiduously frequented by amateur painters. I
asked the number of artists OF all kinds in tho
place this season, but the person whom ques-
toned could not answer me. sBut there were
ovcr 400 here last year, by actual count" said
he; and don't doubtit Yetitwas only this other
day that heard q great lazy say that art was
dying out The old inn Of Mother Banquet, OF
that of ia belle Ernestine," may not be any
longer in existence, but the ghosts of Lepoltte-
vim. of Dlaz, Philippe Rousseau, Laudelle,
Courbet Bida, Alphonse Karr and host of
around the place, and Etretat will long remain
one Of the most charming spots that pen or
pencil has ever attempted to describe.
AT TRoUv1LLE.
enjoyed myself most heartily at Havre for
few days, and thou boat built to accommo-
date $50 passengers brought about thousand
of us across the mouth Of the Seine and into
Trouvile This watering place, standing at
the foot Of o verdant hill covered by elegant
villas in every style Of picturesque archi-
lecture and surrounded by gardens as luxuri-
ant in flowers and as outrageous as those in
America, with long stretch of golden sand
before it, is the ono par excellence of the
beau monde and the demi monde of Paris. It
is the gayest, tho most delightful place have
ever visited; for one can be at Trouville wiss or
wicked, moral or immoral, slow or fast, as he
or she may select, and there is room for all opin-
ions and pleasures; and the hotels are good
The casino at Trouville is not an ornamental
building, but it IL useful and ia well patronzed.
There is Oh excellent concert every afternoon
and evening, ball twice week, operate and
dram tic naff0rmancaS 0ff1n
bling day and night When the tide is up thou
sands upon thousands of persons go in bathing
and swimming. The beach Is divided into
three parts-one for the males alone, one for
the ladies and one for both sexes. There are
some good swimmers here. and one Of the best
is young American girl from Detroit, who
tells me she learned in Lake Erie. One Of the
great pleasures Of the place, after those of the
casino and bathing. is the fishing At low tide
it IS great fun for the el,gantes to 60 out in
most charming toilets to gather mussels on tho
black rocks up by the hotel Another sport is
"la chase de l'equille," which is a sort Of small
lamprey Astounding on these shores after each
high tioe When the eea goes out this little
silver eel burrows into the sand to await the
next high tide, and then it is that weuns 60
out with our little fork and basket to secure
our fnny prey. They are, when cooked, q
great delicacy. Another amusement is to seat
ones self under mammoth umbrella and road
count l saw some twenty odd persons with the
novel, Autour de Marriage in their hands
yesterday afternoon. This book ia the latest
sensation. and before leaving Paris got mo q
copy of the twenty-hft addition. Its author
known that she is the Countess de MarteL She
had already published "La vertu de Ia
Baronne, CO qui Femme Veut aud the Petit
Bob; and this, her latest work, is being
dramatized for production at the Gymnase
theater, with the beautiful Jane Hadding in the
leading role This is q naughty 'book-not so
naughty as some French works which have
read III my idle moments, but rather too lively
for Sunday school library. The cover il il