Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1883-08-19
TRAVEL IN CANADA.
A Trip Down the St. Lawrencs.
Through the Thousand IsIands-GIories Of
the Ri%yer-Running the Rapids
The Victoria Bridge-h
Montreal, Etc.
CORRESPONDENCE Of he Rertser

the RAIN was pOuILuS uoWh usoASAst
at breakfast it had slackened considers
bly,, and at Q o'clock we stood on the
wharf at Ogdensburg, waiting the Mon
treal steamer, and watching q dubious
sky. Here and there the masses OF
clouds broke and through the riffs
showed us patches o fblue, 80 We count
ed on a fine day. The recent rains had
washed all Nature clean. Every leaf
and flower and spear Of grass were in
their brightest, greenest array. Before
Us in quiet, dignified majesty rolled
The Grand Old 50. Lawrence.
clear and bright as the ocean, to
which it fastened. At Ogdensburg the
river is more than a mile in width, and
wholly unlike our Western rivers, never
shows lonesome bars of blistering sand
nor naked deserted banks; but seems
like a cup, full to the brim. The steam.
er, Prince Arthur, was damned full.
Everybody and his family were going
down the rapids 10 Montreal.
' Just below Prescott, which is in Cana
da, and across the river from Ogdens-
burg, we saw the old windmill where,
in 1927, a battle occurred between the
British and patriots, led by the brave
but misguided young Pole, Won Schultz,
who was defeated, taken prisoner and
afterwards executed. Near the wind.
mill which is massive and intact, Is an
old stone farm house, riddled and bat
tered to a heap during that encounter:
A few miles farther we passed the OLD
Chrysler farm where a fiercely contest
I'd battle was fought in 1913. The
hanks of this river have witnessed o
battles than any other in our union.
Only a few miles below this we o
tered the first rapids, around which a
three mile canal is built for boats going
I'M the river. We passed two more OF
these short canals before reaching the
Long SauIt, which is less than thirty
miles below Ogdensburg.
The Long Sault is a descent OF seven
ty leet in nine miles. The channels,
for there are two, are divided by two
long islands.
As we entered these rapids the purser
made his appearance on the roWde
bow and forbade all sitting on, or lean
ING over the rail of the boat. The water
was very rough indeed. Various esti-
Ul.lltS were IltuC COllCSi mug IL AN'Shh
of the waves. The purser said they
were in some places eleven feet nigh.
The sensation here is that of sliding
do IN hill you feel the same kind OF
breathless excitement.
Dinner OH n Canadian Boat.
The flesh breeze of the river increas-
ed by swift sailing made us savagely
hungry before dinner was announced,
and when we were duly seated we
found il was to be a trial to u patience
as well as our appetite. To each table,
seating six or eight, Il or two bills OF
fare were provided, then each person
was supplied with a little blank card at
the head of which he was to write his
name; under this were columns marked
"NO., article, price," Before the bill OF
fare passed to half a dozen men, each
one celebrating what he should eat,
reckoning cost of the same, the writing
down each article his soul, Il. e.
stomach) desired, more time had been
consumed than is usually allotted the
whole meal.
The walters were numbered and re-
ceived their supplies from the pantry
in regular order, 80 you see, If No: | was
tardy in getting his order in, all sue
ceeding numbers must wait which they
did, and we too. At last, dinner being
enGcd, each diner presented his order to
the steward who added each item slow
~ and carefully. The diners stood
crowded around his desk, as the walters
bad crowded the pantry window. The
whole arrangement was the most alb
Sub we have ever seen. This Canada
boat had Il bar and furnished a full
vine list for the table. We observed a
New York party who evidently had
more wine than wit.
st. Regis village
is the last point we passed in New
York. Here was pointed out the old
church in which hangs the bell that
caused the Deerfield massacre. In 100
a Catholic church was built, and the
priest induced the converted Indians to
sell enough furs to procure a bell for II.
They sent to France for the bell. BE.
fore reaching the Atlantic colst 1t was
CAPTURED by an English cruiser, who
took the bell into Salem, where 1t was
sold to the Deerfeld folks for a new
church they were building. Inc ptiest'
hearing of Its destination, in"'teo Tue
Indians to recover it. This led to the
massacre Of the fOrty-seven people and
the capture o fthe pastor and his whole
family. The Indians took the bell and
Luried il where Burlington, VT, now
stands. A month or two afterwards
hey brought the bell to st. Regis and
hung it ia the Catholic church, where il
still remains.
Running the Rapids
Leaving st. Regis we found ourselves
III st. Francis lake, an expansion OF the
river twenty-five miles long, with an
average width Of five and a half miles
the greatest width being nine miles. At
the foot Of this lake we ran into the
most beautiful series Of rapids. We
passed a little French hamlet, COteau
pu Lac-a name larger than the town,
when the purser again appeared and
informed us that the descent we should
now make was just eighty.four feet.
The second in the series OF rapids II
called "The Cedars" from three little
islands covered with this beautiful
wood. There were b!anched faces visi
Tie as our valiant steamer shot through
the channel. Looking ahead vi in,
slant destruction seemed inevitable. One
nlOIleUI I0OIc luc NAV dppsdItu W
stand as II dreading to advance, then
she would leap forward causing every
passenger to grasp at the object nearest
him. Near this spot the purser pointed
out the whirlpool, a wild, wicked Look
ing place named "Hell Hole" and in
formed us that at St. Timothy, a little
French village on the adjacent shore.
every inhabitant was a regular attend.
ant at church in consequence Of his
fear of the ''Hell Hole.n
Lower Canada.
We observed a marked contrast be.
tween Upper and Lower Canada. In
the lower provinces all the buildings,
farm houses and village houses are very
small and inferior. Every hamlet,
however, has its church or cathedral,
and in most cases they make some dis.
play OF architectural beauty. Even In
Sparsely settled districts we saw some
large, fine churches and wondered by
what process the money for their erec-
ton had been wrung from the tenants