The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1883-12-28

what the mllHnere call large small
bonnets are the success Of the season.
These have . deeper brim than the
capotes of last winter, and are slightly
raised above the front hair. The crown
fits the crown of the head most COM
fortably, and may be stiff in shape or
soft cap crown, but in any case must be
large enough to take in the upper and
back part of the head, with any soft
coils of hair that the wearer may ar
range there, or else it must drop down
to meet the low small knot of hair
which many ladies still prefer. A we'll
fitted bonnet is equal to both these
emergencies, and the best milliners now
alter, cut and shape the frame of the
bonnet to suit the wearer with as much
precision as the dressmaker does the
waist of dress. The "large small
bonnets are far more dressy-looking
than the tiny capotes that are little
more than a crown. and can not sup
port much trimming. At present
trimmings are very large, and promise
to increase in size, especially the
punches of feathers and of wings.
A great many humming-birds are
used clustered together, but there
is a greater fancy for the use of single
large bird, or part of bird cut off to
show only the feathers that best suit the
color of the bonnet. The brim may be
smoothly covered with velvet, with folds
of piping on the edges, if the wearer
has the regular features that will per-
NIT this severe style, but soft puff of
velvet taking in the edge of the brim is
becoming to those whose irregular
features can not allow the prim-loOking
straight edges. Sometimes the stiff
edge has not even simple pipingS, and
it is then ornamented prettily by gold
or silver cord being laid in row of
curves along the inside of the brm, and
inside of each curve is a hammered gilt
or silver bead of more glossy metal
.han that of the cord. Another pretty
edging is three beads strung together in
triangular shape and sewed on the brim
to project beyond the edge; sometimes
five beads in diagonal clusters are then
laid on the outside of the brim; straight
rows of beads or of the spiked cones are
also still used. Chenille has proved so
fragile that it is already objected to by
those who used it at the beginning Of
the season.
There IS now a decided fancy for
fuller cap crowns that are often in the
piece with the material of the brim;
these may droop into shallow plat,
like fold on each side, or they may
have two box plaits, or else only one
down the middle, while perhaps the
greatest number are laid in small side
plaits the whole length and breadth Of
the crown. The smooth fat crowns and
those that have only slight plat each
side are used when there is to be much
ornament introduced in the way of en-
broidery in floss silk, wool, or in beads.
Dark or black velvet crowns can be
made very dressy by putting small star
or leaf figures of beads the color OF the
velvet at intervals all over the crown.
Dropping jet beads are much used on
black velvet bonnets. while dark blue,
green or brown velvet have sometimes
large spots of cream white wool
wrought upon them; unique
fashion then adds some creamy white
wool in the plaitings, or the bow OF
velvet which trims the brim. Ribbons
are little used as the winter advances,
but are occasionally seen as strings, and
on very youthful bonnets arranged in
pointed ends clustered together on the
left side to form the effect given by
punches of pompons. A made bow of
bias velvet with narrowly folded velvet
strings completes most bonnets. A
novelty seen on handsome black velvet
bonnets is two-headed leaves of jet
strapped together to resemble a bow.
and this is worn under the chin instead
of bow of velvet. The bias velvet for
the bow is about four inches wide; it
has two loops very tightly strapped,
and two ends, each about six inches
long, sharply pointed by turning over
one corner, and these may be lined with
silk or satin; the pieces for strings are
two inches wide, bias. and have their
edges foldeI in so deeply that they are
only about two-thirds of an inch wide
when hed.-Harper's Bazar.