The San Antonio light. (San Antonio, Tex.) 1883-1886, 1883-04-07
Dresses just Too lovely for Anything
and Others that are Lovely
Enough.
New Spring Bonnets Made to Match Par
ticular Oostumos-Fancies
and CRprices.

travel from the homogeneous through TO the
heterogeneous and from the heterogeneous up
to the homogeneous again, only II is first the
homogeneous in its crude forms, and lastly
the homogeneous in its highest, most refined
and cultivated mode Of expression. Accept
ing this statement, it does not take much study
of socialology to discover that we are in the
heterogeneous stage of development so far as
our clothing is concerned, and that progress
must be made by individuals towards the
higher plane and not expected from the aggre-
gate mass, which can never give more than
the mean average result; and is composed
largely of elements directly interested instim
ulating the production of a thousand unnec-
essary accessories to what we call our civilza-
ton. The spring bonnet. No better illustra-
ton could be formed Of the condition of
fashion as it exists to-day than the gro
tesque, many-colored, hydra-shaped and
strangely contracted spring bonnets. Manu-
facturers of original "straws" are at their wits
end for novelty. The historic past has been
exhausted-that is, as far as ignorant imits-
tons can exhaust original ideas-al.d there is
no one who dares, or who has intelligent
knowledge enough to come out and give us an
American shape-an original and picturesque
mode, whose distinction and fitness would win
for it respect and acceptance. AT present
those who pay their money can truly take their
choice. We have the scoop" and the
"pointed" poke, the "Gypsy" and the
"capote," the "Scotch bonnet" and the
"Khedive cap" the "Gainesborough" and
the derby" the "Marie Stuart" and the
"turbsn," and thousand shades and grada-
tions between these. We have straws in every
color 10 match the latest shades in costume,
and we have all black or all white which are
popularity supposed TO be suited to any cos
tune, though the authorities discredit the
assertion. We have what are unsteady called
'symphonies" in color, but which are merely
a confused tumble of color sounds, without
clearly defined purpose, and therefore without
harmony.
In the meantime there are ladies who do
not depart from the small bonnet known as
the capote, who find it best suited to all pur-
poses, and who change it only for shade hat
in the country, or Tor modest and moderate
scoop-shaped poke or small gypsy in travel
ing. both of which shade the face and are bet
ter adapted to emergencies than the quiet and
refined, yet dressy little capote, which frames
a delicate face most charmingly, and is no
obstacle at theatre or concert, but does little
for protection against sun or wind. But it
was as Costume" bonnets, that is, as bon
nets to match visiting and reception cos umes,
that these pretty head-dresses were first intro
duced several years ago, and that they have
held their own, and gained rather than lost
prestige, says much in their favor. In fact,
they have established a position. They
are "dress' bonnets - they are the
only kind now admitted for wild
ows' mourning, and they have created
a standard which, even il it is only temporary,
is still useful for the time being. But with its
form its value as a standard ceases il is the
most "mixed" in material, color and trim
mings of any of the shapes known. The
pointed poke which appeared in Paris two
years ago, and to a limited extent here last
summer, is now numerous, but, excepting the
form, quite simple in its details but the ca
pote makes up for its gentleness and severe
propriety of shape, by massing upon its small
surface the richest materials, and the most
highly contrasting colors and devices. En-
broidered or deliberately beaded crowns are
combined with exquisite embroidered or
beaded lace, which is pleated over a soft
foundation Of silk, and covers the brim, while
the ornamenting is obtained from shaded
satin or velvet foliage, in which all the tnts
Of the bonnet and its trimming are introduced.
But the majority do not follow the laws OF de-
sign or harmony; they are a medley of high
colors or i'll assorted shades, and bear no re-
lation whatever to any possible combination
in any sane woman's dress.
These structures apply of course to the bon
nets as exhibited at the average opening and
which are of the kind most frequently seen
upon the street. They may be copied from
patterns sent from abroad, for there are bon
nets and bonnets every where--that is in all
modern and civilized communicable they