Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1883-10-13
The FASHIONS.

Pelerines and shoulder capes will be in
greater favor than ever.
Painted lace capotes will be the leading
opera bonnets this year.
Trimmings of silk or satin upon travel
ing dresses are now considered wholly "bad
form"
French redingotes and polonsises in a
score of forms are highly popular fer travel
ing and the promenade.
Tapestry embroideri es done in old.
fashioned cross-stitch form borders for
| trimming the new wool dresses for fall and
winter.
Jockey caps, hunting horns, stirrups
and riding whips are embroidered in colors
on the corners of the new buff linen pocket
handkerchiefs.
Embossed and gilded leather painted in
oils aud with designs in relief ID used for
hand bags portfolios, belts, fans, albums
and fanciful boxes.
Wide bracelets, heavily chased, and
bangles, lace pins and dog collars of va
rious patterns, all of solid silver, are again
the height of fashion.
White Ursulne and white drap d'ete are
| made into very beautiful evening dresses,
trimmed plainly but richly, with many
bands of white silk gimp, or with silver
embroideries and ornaments.
Half. sashes, or demi-belts, are fashion
ably worn they are made of wide velvet
ribbon or of narrower satin ribbon of two
shades, sewed in the seams on the side of
the oorsage and tied in point in front.
deliberately braided jerseys will be very
much worn again this autumn over skirts
of velvet, tweed, or cheviot. The newest
patterns in braid work resemble rich ap.
plique work, being wrought in close elab.
crate designs.
The Dame or golden bonnet is formed of
gold braid half an inch wide, plated with
silken cords. 1t is trimmed with velvet
rosettes the color of the cord, and is deco
rated with pompons, an aigrette, or flowers
of plush or satin.
Velvet ribbons have not yet reached the
hight of favor, and will be the principal
trimming of next seasons dresses. Braid
ing will also retain its hold as popular
decoration of cloth dresses, while velvet
ribbon viii be used on cashmere.
The Position hat is a new cap of straw
with visor and round crown shaped very
much like that worn by professional jock
eys. A narrow band of silver links or of
velvet folds around the crown and cock.
ade on the left side are the ornaments.
The Princess of Wales wears a white
serge yachting dress, with the skirt trim
med with close set rows of blue braid that
make horizontal stripes very near together.
4,sl, n 40
and heavily braided there. The close
bodice has vest and collar of blue serge
braided with white.
Plain linen collars and cuffs are to be in
vogue again, and very deep cuffs and col.
lars, like those worn by ladies in the play
known as the esquire, are preferred by
many followers of this severe fashion.
They look trimmer and heater invariably
than any other style, but it will take some
time to re-establish the custom of wearing
them after the more delicate and negigee
fashion of wearing lace alone.
A party of English young ladies', well
chaperoned, recently sojourning at Mon
treal, Canada. carried slender switch canes
of ebony, with small gold heads, richly
chased, and wore jockey caps of plain
black velvet, which were most becoming
and natty looking. Both cane and cap
are said to be very fashionable abroad,
both in England and France, although in
staid America they may be regarded as
slightly tinged with dudeism.
The added basque, SO long feature of
modern dressmakIng is losing its popu-
larity. The most fashionable jacket bodies
are cut in one. very many opening over
vests of some contrasting material other
wise the gilet may correspond with the
dress fabric and be laid in soft fiat folds or
gagged. The basque is frequently very
short, with square tabs cut up to the waist
line. When deeper, the basque is some.
times cut into long Vandykes, the points
being exceedingly sharp, and not cut up to
the waist, as in the above case. The style
looks best when mixed materials or braid
ing and embroidery are introduced.
The fashion writer in the New York
Post says The most fashionable of rich
dress materials for the coming season, be-
sides satin and velvet, are the magnificent
brocades and brocatelles, with brilliantly
colOred small flowers on grounds of darkest
ruby, bronze, myrtle green, olive, garnet,
and wood brown, shot with silver or gold
beautifully ribbed Ottoman silks in all
the new artistic shades, both for day and
evening use ; Pekins, with the stripes of
satin and velvet of uncommon width and
greatly improved quality, and lampas with
plain grounds, brocaded with wide stripes
covered with sprays of flowers, foliage and
small fruits. For reception and dinner
toilets are imported most superb tissues
woven with threads OF real gold or silver,
damasks of the 50 stand alone" quality fit for
a queen, with grounds of heavy Lyons satin
in pale shades of msuve, flesh. cameo, ex-
quisite new tints of pink and blue, bro
caded with both small and immense sprays
of flowers and leaves in raised velvet of
very dark shade in wondrous contrast
to the delicate background. There are
also an endless variety of new pushes.
thicker and richer than ever before seen
plain, ribbed, shot, cisele, STAMPED and re-
pousse Next in order come the velveteens,
which, of new and elegant quality and
coloring, are taking rank along with vel
vets, many of which they surpass both in
appearance and durability. Then follow
the tweeds and the myriad mixed wooden
materials, the Scotch and English brands
being in great demand