New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-02-18
CALIFORNIAN HOLIDAYS.
SANTA BARBARA.
TFRoM STAFF CORRESPONDENT or THE TPrBrNgI
A. Inn. ID. ,nl EaL. q

Riviera Like Monaco Mentone. San Remv aud tho
other popular resorts of that famous REGION 10 lies
under tie lee Of a wall Of mountains running east
and west. The strip OF coast slopes gently toward
the sonth and the houses look out upon warm and
quiet sea. Owing to the trend of the shore aud the
protection of line of islands, the cold currents of
the Pacific are not felt here paciu little nook
of ocean seems to have been provided by nature,
where the sun shines almost always, audthe hurly-
burly of traffic and speculation is hushed. Tho
nearest railway station is eighty miles away. the
other side OF the mountains. Once Santa Barbara
had It's era OF great expectations like all the other
settlements in California; and 1t built great many
more shops and cuisines blocks than 10 had anv
use for; theatre lsch Is hardly ever opened aud
big college which the last pupil long ago de-
parted But the fever soon burned itself out; there
was really so little for il to feed upOn. A period of
steady industry and moderate thrift has followed.
Little by little the community is growing mp to tho
capacity of its premature buildings, and looking
forward to the time when it shall have railway,
and vines shall cover the foothills and the bounti-
full soil shall show its capacity. Meanwhile there
sheep and cattle aud fields of grain apricos arc
raised in large quantities for canning; and one
ranch is famous for the production of olive oil
The orange groves that have young and
do not look healthy. Provisions of various kinds
dre brought by steamer from other parts of the
coast. large proportion of the inhabitants are
people of leisure. elegant otherwise. Their lives
are marked by ease simplicity, and content-which
net the Characteristic virtues of California. but
are comfortable qualities nevertheless. MAN. came
here from the East for health, and having found it,
they have resolved to stay for life farming trad
ing following whatever other calling they may
be ft for.
So much has been saa about the winter climate of
southern California that hesitate to set down i'm
pressons which do not accord in all respects with
the opinions of other travellers Where nature is
digal of pleasant surprises 1t is difficult for
stranger to write at all about tue country without
eAaggeration. and iG is of course rash to
ture a judgment upon climate from the experience
oil only one season. In other words must dis
tingush between the climate and the weather.
The good days at Santa Barbara among the
most delightful the world; and there few days
here winter when the most delicate invalid may not
stay outof doors as long as he has the strength to
walk or to ride The ordinary temperature is from
five 20 ten degrees hi CHER than that of Mentone;
the air is soft and genial the Gampness OF the
ocean is hardly perceptble in the upper part of the
town, and know of no seaside place except on the
Riviera which Is upon the whole dry. Santa Bar
bara moreover is free from serious drawbacks
which impair the value of all the Med terraDean
health resorts-such as the bad company. the bad
smells and the violent contrasts of temperature
between sun and shade the open country and the
narrow streets.
On the other hand the Californian town has its
faults raw wind, loaded with chilly moisture,
does sometimes blow IN from the sea. Fogs are not
uncommon. Sudden changes Of temperature are fire.
0uent and vexatOus. A little over two weeks ago
there was thick at the fountain, the lawn
around 1t was covered with icicles for three morn
pipes we're frozen. Suddenly night the mercury
began to rise after shutdown, and uriOus hot wind
came tearing like a cyclone over the mountains. At
sunrise tine temperature was 7So, and at 3 o'clock
il was $50 in a shady corner OF the room. After
inter, al of one mild day. this heat succeeded
by an equally violent cold wnd-a roaring north
westerly gale which has been blowing now for two
days with binding clouds of dust and a temper
tufe 30 or 40 degrees lower than that of its prede
cessor March at the East show nothing worse.
Such days are said 10 be unusual; out wind and
dust are certainly not rare. the mountain barrier
which partially shelters the town on the north
being far less efectual protection than the sore
what similar range which extends along the Medi-
terranean Riviera. The rains which have been
very heavy in the northern part Of the State have
not vet reached Santa Barbara, and fan mers are
dreadmg the most terrirls OF Californian misfor-
tunes dry winter Is is only between April and
December that any showers fall in this section and
when the skies withhold their customary winter
supply the croDs dwindle, the land remains bare
and brown for a whole year. and an.ials die by
thousands for want of forage. There was heavy
rain on the first of January, but there has been
none since. The vordure which ought to have
covered the foothills month ago Is still lacking
Sheep and cattle are pershiBg IN Large numbers.
Hay LAS to scarcity prices. But 1t Is not too
late to hope Tor relief.
4 L. 70 ha rs
salvation to the ranchman. In the dry time the
dust is trial. and the landscape has little charm OF
color The brown hills are dotted with live-Oaks
here and there. the higher mountain slopes snow
scrnbby growth of bush often swept by hres. Out
the prevailing hue of this vegetation Is son ore and
mOnOtoDOus. There are no WOODS Inc ORANGE tuo
lime and the olive, oer rich variety OF evergreen
foliage but they are not abundant enough IN the
n.Ig6borhoOd of Santa Barbara to give character
10 the scene, while the apple, the apricot. and the
grape at this of course are lealless let the
city itself like most towns III southern California,
is brilliant with irrigated gardens and studded
with cultivated trees which never lose their greed
From the hills which half encompass 10 one looks
down upon spectacle OF SURPRISING beauty. Inc
spacious settlement, about mile square, spreads
itself luXuTiOusly over u smiling plalu. Ibe blue
sea breaks on a smooth white beach, bounded Vy
cliffs either hand; and IN the background. AZ
the summit of gentle rise, the ancient Franciscan
coyent and the quaint adobe church stand amid
the ruins of the old mission. now gwen up TO the
ground squirrel aud the gopher. Far away,
through break III the hills, " here the stage-r0ad
stretches to the north. opens a luminous vista OF
broad cultivated slopes and white houses, Oatneo
in a soft blue my steriOus maze.
The houses of Santa Barbara show dozen pat
terus of architecture from the crumDllng adobe
relies of the Mexican era the Joss house aud the
Chinese laundry. to the imposing hotel ana the
newest gingerbread villa. There are green lawns
wherever water is sprnkled. There are roses and
heliotrope always in bloom. few palms grow
but do not flourish. The cypress thrivesi ana sew
ernI ornamental trees of Australia, New
Holland and the African Continent are domesti.
Gated in the doOryards along with the stately ana
ex0uisitely genteel Norfolk Island pine which re-
minds me of sales lady" at Macy's with ncr hair
banged But the pepper and the eucalyptus are the
oiores of the santa Barbara streets. Luxuriaht 10
SSrowth and brilliant in Color they attain their full