Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-04-02

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have been used if they had been, because the,
were so lneonveniently placed, while the daily
papers were teeming with accounts al
purses ana pocketbooks snatched out of the
hands of women in crowded thoroughfares
because their dress or coat contained nc
pocket in which to carry their money.
The absence OF unnecessary rubbish in the
way of trimming and mounting, and the
presence of a useful and substantial finish in
the way of invisible pockets, fine stitching
and interior facing, mark the difference be-
tween real tailor made and other cloth gar
ments. lt is almost impossible to get ANYTHING
but the common side skirt pocket from the or
dinary dressmaker. Even watch pockets are
omitted IN nine cases out of ten, or are so
badly arranged that the chatelaine is resOrted
to, which like the pocketbOOk i'm the hand is
another invitation to the modern thief, who is
vulgar and brutal parsonage, by no means
so gentlemanly or considerate to women as his
ancient prototype.
The cloth preferred for suits and redingotes
is soft but smoothly finished and in fine dark
mixtures, such as hunters or bottle green.
dregS of wine and brown. For suits alone
higher and lighter cOlors are often chosen, but
they are of the dull ash shades and not so
conspicuous as the reds, blues and nurpleS
were formerly. Only by comparing an old
with new shade, can one judge of the
enormous advance made of late in the art of
color. We used to talk of ''apple" and
grass" green in reference to bright metallic
shades that were as unlike any natural tints
TINT as 1t Is possible to conceive, and the wide
measured by comparison with actual grass
and growing fruit. But now there is nearer
approach to the purity,the tenderness and the
depth of natural cOlOrs and TO the dark
shades which seem to become absorbed by the
atm0sphere-which do not stand ont dis
tinctly and antagonstically from it, and
which are as well worn by men as by women,
and therefore suitable for the neutral ground
which dress should occupy on the street-es-
pecially the streets of great CITY. The suit
very often consists of skirt without flOunces
or rufhes, but in which the back is laid in a
wide triple bOXpleat, the sides killed. and the
front finished with straight upright folds
stitched on. Over this is worn a straight coat
with side pocket inserted diagonally at the
right for the handkerchief ana little purse for
fares and an inside pocket for more important
matters. The sleeve is cut up and rounded a
little on the back and may be worn with or
without linen cuff. The garment may be
belted IN for tourists purposes, and the small
satchel suspended from the side. A cape
may also be added. and, with a turban,
scotch cap, or Derby, ana gauZe VEIL the
outfit is complete. This costume is in some re-
spects an improvement on the trimmed skirt
and jacket thatpreceded it. 1t is less weighty.
more complete, and much less of care in
emergencies. trimmed skirt signifies pleat-
ed nounces, drapery at the back perhaps
shlrrlng In front and paniers on the sides. All
this mass of pleated and folded and punched
up wOOlen cloth must be worn IN warm or
moist weather, and an ulster added for pro-
lection. A palmer skirt which does not 1oD
about the feet, which is not burdensOme, vet
looks well, is boon, and the well fitting red
ingote or straight coat over it with removal
bic cape, takes away largely the necessity for
an ulster. This costume is specially de-
signed for travelling and service More
dressy suits for street wear by Young
women who are nothing If not striking and
conspicuous, are made of raspberry red or
gendarme blue cloth, with an inner facing or
vest of white or buff. The vest is cut deep
and only a little of it shoWs-a mere rim on
either slde-not short vest buttOned over as
formerly. The front will be filed up with a
full skirt of surah. the color of the cloth
gathered or pleated top and bottom and eX-
tending three inches below the line of the
waist. These costumes are not, however. to
be wholly or unreasonably condemned. They
are very pretty when well made, and of fine
well cOntrasted materials, and the slight
"Directoire" flavor which the cut of the coat
its collar and facing give to the costume is
heightened by the cOquetry of a three-cOr-
nered hat with tuft of curling plumes or
clustered pompons.
AMERICAN SILK.
1t is not generally known that New York is
the largest centre of production of American
silk, yet it is true, one manufactOry in Forty
second street turning out 5000 pieces per day.
Of these at the present time not one is what is
known as ''plan'' black silk. So thoroughly
did ladies become disheartened and discOur-
aged with the adulteratiOnS and deceptiOnS
practlced upon the old grOs grain and faille
silk that they relinquished them almost en-
Hlasse, and the sales ceased to be sufficiently
important to warrant the employment of ma
chlnery and force In its production. Besides,
the demand for figured fabrics-damasks and
brocades, the new Ottomans and the useful
and inexpensive surahs-became so great that
all the force was concentrated upon them,
and the plain silk left to the importer and the
spun silk manufacturer. The principal black
silks therefore are the rich ribbed ottOmans.
the armures, and the twilled surahs, some of
the latter being light but close and durable
for Innings and foundation skirts, others
satin finished and most serviceable,
as well as most effective, for suits and
costumes, particularly for combination with
velvet. There is also an extra quality of
surah, which is suitable for mourning, for
combination with cashmere, and for enduring
costumes. The armure are also used in
mourning and for combination with fine
black cashmere, but they rule higher than
surah, even the extra quality, and many pre-
fer the surah because of its peculiarly quiet
and unObtrusive character. The OttOmans
are of course the richest in black, the hand
sOmest qualities almost surprising, at least in
fashionable pre- -eminence, the expensive
brocades. The choice, however, is
mans would be preferred for costumes where
only one fabric was used, and looks exceed
ingly well in combination with velvet; but
the brOcades are very appropriate for reception
cred satin, or satin covered with embroidered
lace, Many of the magnificent brOcades in
colors supposed to be imported, are of home
manufacture, and will bear comparison with
any imported silks except in the number of
cOlors combined in one pattern. The majority
of American hrocades are in two "tones,"
but they are perfectly pure, and sell from - 80
to 50 retail, while the Imported goods of the
same class sell for $4 and IS. The colOrs are
very good, and comprise all the new ''art"
shades, which are much softer than the old
purples and garnets and plums and magentas.
Such tlnts as apricot, crushed straWperry. pale
almond and raspberry red are wonderfully
fine in the satin finished Ottoman SILK.
and though unsuited to the street make beau
md fpa6 rxr-ffI Ion
a series of diamond ornaments to faSten it. as
is the vogue Just now,
But the question with American manufac-
turers is how long will fashion in any partic-
ulaf direction lastg 1t costs a million of dol
lars to put in the machinery and adjust the
forces to supply the demand for a new stvle
like the new damasked figures and brocades,
and the process cannot be repeated too often
As it is, purchasers have to pay large profit
because of the risk to capital consequent on
the sudden caprices and changes of the mode
which are neither good, therefore, for buyer
or seller.
REVIVAL OF MOURNING.
1t is rather curious that the increased en-
of color in dress has created quite
new interest in mourning for deceased rela-
tyes. For time, while black was SUM-
form" upon the streets and of course much
worn indoors also, mourning as mourning
perceptibly declined. Only the strictly con-
ventiOnal who were in society and who could
afford it, still adhered to the custom. The
usual, omitted perhaps some of their adorn-
ments, but made no other change-a practice
indeed which some still follow who have
more sense than money or time to eXpend on
the details of their attire. 1t is a fact how
ever, that in exclusive circles the very strict
est regard is just now paid to the early depth
and later gradations of mourning toilets The
widows bonnet is a small capote of double
English Grape, the crown plated or
OF cords laid closely to-
gether, the small brlm OF two little puflings,
beyond WHICH is a plating of Grape composed
Of three strands, the width of those used in
the crown, braided loosely together, This is
all. The bonnet is small; all double crane and
entirely free from ornament or trimming of
any kind. Later, say at the end of six months
a row more of dull beads and a series of
three dull bead ornaments, the beads the size
Of peas, and devoid of lustre. may be placed
down one side of the brim. Later STILL at the
end of twelve months, Grape may be discon-
tlnued and armure silk substituted, and the
dull bead ornaments fndulged in more pro-
fusely, the crown perhaps embroidered with
them. Jet, however, is not worn by a widow
during the first two years after her husbands
death, nor any lace or jewels, except she hap-
pens to have single pearls for earrings or soli-
taire diamonds in which the setting is not
visible.
Her first dress is fine Henrietta cloth with
front or panels Of deep hGrden ana close nan
lers of Grape. The b0ddice is finished with a
collar which also forms vest of Grape. Some
times this Is laid in fine folds and is more be-
coming in this way, but some modistes consi-
der that folds are out of place until three
months have elapsed, and some use numerous
round cords trimmed upon the cloth as braids,
not discontinued until the end of twelve
months, nor until that time can any white
interior plaitings be used for meek or wrist:
but Grape at the thr0atis intOlerable in sum-
ner and black Grape lisse a delusion.
6nish is stherefore usad for ,ntoI.;n, I'LL