Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-10-20
FASHION WRINKLES.
COLD WEATHER FABRIcs-HIGH-CR CROWNED HATS
NEW TAILoR-MADE COSTUMES COMBINATION
CLOAKs ETC.

NEW TALoR-MADE COSTUMES COMBINATION
CLOAKs, ETC.
FANcHON BONNETs will remain in vogue.
-EPAULET TRIMMINGS are much worn by young
girls.
LEATHER BONNETs are among millinery nov
| elites.
The SHAKER POKE is the latest fancy in big
bonnets.
For THEATER WEAR the Fanchon Is the favor
lite bonnet.
CHENILLE appears in various forms on hats
and bOnnets.
WHITE BoNNETs are restored to favor for
evening wear.
SHOT SILKS and stripes of velvet and satin
are worn by Parisians.
BIRDS WINGS, pompOns. aigrettes and ostrich
| feathers are all fashionable.
THE HIGH-LOOPED, very full overskirt is the
prevailing style for ordinary wear.
THERE is as much variety in millinery orna-
| ments as there is in shapes and materials
some leading dressmakers aretryng to intro
duce the straight unlooped Old-fashioned over
| skirt.
KID and alligator skins are used in the natu-
| raj coiors and in dark green and brown shades
| for bOnnets
FRENCH dressmakers pad the hips of new
dresses for women of slight figure.
| CABBAGE BOws--Otherwise rOsettes-of velvet
ribbon trim autumn bOnnets, hats and dresses.
ALL KINDS of hats and bonnets large, small
and medium sizes, and in every imaginable
shape. are in fashion.
| VANDYkED tiOunces bound with velvet or with
| satin ribbon are used to trim the skirts of new
| woOlien and silk dresses,
fn1
bodices will be worn in wool dresses made as
| they were during the summer.
| FELT, cloth, velvet chenille wool braid. leath-
| er, Kid, cashmere and worsted embroidery bon
nets are all worn, or will be worn, this winter.
WHITE velvet. white cashmere shot and dot
| ted with silver and gold and white brocaded
| stu1fs are the materials used for white evening
| bOnnets.
PLAID or striped skirts with tunics to match,
and tailormade coat of cloth or a woven jer-
sey, Will be the regulation dress for schoolgirls
| this winter.
| TIE closely fitting blouse corsage is seen upon
some OF the richest of Pingat's carriage and din
ner dresses of satin, Ottoman silk and French
cashmere.
BRAIDED collars and cuffs and vest of velvet
with row of buttons down each side give a
new appearance to jerseys. The vest may be
| covered by closely set rows.
WILD-ROsE pink will be a fashionable color for
the thick corded silk gowns worn as dinner and
reception dresses this winter, and by the brides
maids at October weddings
NATTY cutaway jackets with checked waist
coats are worn with plain skirts of dark WOOL
with simple hem. and gathered into the waist
Dand or plated alike all around.
NEW BALL DRESSES are of cO,ored tule SPOT
tea with chenille. They are draped over satin
hn nNl<N
DOdlce, worn with fichu OF the folded tulle.
LIGHT cloth Newmarket coats ror autumn are
fastened on the breast by single button, and
fall open to show the dress beneath from its COL
lar at the neck down to its pulled paniers and
Vandyked hOunces.
SURAH CHEMISETTES made with very full
gathers or close plaitings, fill up the front of
cashmere dresses in square pastron shape lust
below the neck, or they extend to the point of
the dress below the waist.
BLACK RUSSIAN lambskin is the fur that will
be most used for trimming cloth dresses and
cioaks. Epaulet pelerines of this glossy waving
1ur Will be worn accompanied by small flat
muffs with square corners
A FAvORITE way Of making morning gowns
is to plat the bodice in fine plaits from the
throat and imprson the waist in wide belt of
velvet fastened by silver buckle; the plating
below the belt forms frl that covers the
hips.
SATIN is not to be superseded by Ottoman silk
or yelvets for at least another season. Among
the richest dress patterns vet exhibited are |
those OF plain satin with several yards richly en-
6ossed with velvet of gay colOrs in branches of |
flowers. |
NEW FANS have the favOrite gray doves plu- |
mage mounted on sticks Of gray wood or blue |
birds feathers on mOther-Of-pearl Most Gu
riOus OF all are the fans made of owls feathers |
having an owls head with ruby eyes on the |
framework.
For those to whom they are becoming high
crowned felt hats are TO be all the wear this |
autumn. trimmed with the wings of any bird |
one may fancy grouse, pheasant or partridge, |
duck, snipe, pigeon or swallow. Upon some |
hats i've or six wings are arranged perpendcu- |
larry around the crown with the head of one |
large bird just in front.
AMONG other cold weather fabrics are full |
lines of Newmarket suitings, Lincolnshire cloths
with rough, shaggy surfaces, broad striped
cheviOts and Durham tweeds. Belgravia ar
mures, millions, diagOnals and Ottoman cloths |
brOcaded with great moons and crescents of
chenille. all the fabrics being particularly
adapted to the taOr-made style of DRESS
For ladies In mourning the long Russian dol
mans with square sleeves is made of dull luster-
less camel's-hair cloth such as is sold for SIS
yard, and this is lined with quilted black satin
The trimming may be of Astrakhan fur or of
black fox with long fleece. For more youthful
garments the pelisse of camers-hair cloth is
closely fitted and bordered with black fur. or
else there is short jacket made like the tailor
jackets of heavier ottoman cloth. There are ex-
cellent dull cheviOts, diagOnals, and cork
screw" patterns of cloth that many young ladies
prefer to the camel s-hair stuffs.
BRAIDs Of all descriptions are used as trim
ming, skirts having frequently four or five rows
Of fine wOrsted braid six or seven inches wide
placed above the hem. Another prevalent fash
ion is to cover the lower skirt with rows of fine
sOutache to the depth of twelve inches, the width
of the braid forming the space between the rows |
This is sewed horizontally, while on the tunic
cOrsa9e and sleeves it is placed perpendicular
to the depth of about six inches. TOngued braid
is deeply groOved on one side and flat on the
other. and can be bought in mohair of all the
fashionable shades, also in Steel silver and gold |
COMBINATIONS of two materials are as fash
ionable for long coaks, for vsites, and for scarf
nantes as they are for dresses, and there is
almost as much variety in the arrangement Of
the fabrics Of wraps as there is in costumes
One rule, however, is usually followed in cloaks