New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-07-22
CAMPING IN CALIFORNIA.
THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS.

back to Fisherman's Camp for our rear division he
rode one animal and the other six marched in a
string in front of him. By this arrangement every
body secured mount. and there were horses
enough for the packs. We we're not sorry to rest a
few days among our bay-trees. although there was
little game in the neighborhood, and the heat
was too great for much exercise. We were more
than 1000 feet above the sea, but even the nights
were warm. and the winds seemed to be charged
with those desert-heats which sometimes blow
down upon the cosst-country with cruel intensity.
We rose before the sun got through the work OIL
the camp early; and then placed our rugs and
stools in the thckest shade. where we read, and
chatted, slipped lemonade, cooled water by wrapp-
ing the Jug in wet cloths and hanging 1t in cur
rent of arr made little Housekeeping conveniences,
stuffed pillows with bay-leaves, watched Durer
clean his pistol and listened to the experiences Of
Soper. who knows dozen handcrafts-carpentry,
shoemaking tinkering is hunter, farmer, wood
man pberman rnachinist and bee keeper and has
fought Indians for three years as cavalryman IN
the United States Army. The sun went behind the
mountains early and then we took pleasant rambies
mn the gorge where the rocks are Scared and hol-
lowed with extraordinary marks Of the action OF
prehistoric torrents.
Our next march was to be the hardest of the Jour
new; and Soper, Durer, the Doctor, and the COW,
who went first with four households of luggage
and stores were before light. 1t was o'clock,
however, and the day already began to be warm.
when they filed up the gorge. Just twelve hours
later Soper returned with the seven horses, all
nearly exhausted; but Bob had killed deer on
the way up, and sent bak apart oft for dinner
in good time, for we had no fresh meat, and the
arrangement of paatable bill of fare was causing
Diana NO little perplxity. Our stores had been
reduced by moro than q horse load since the pre-
Wins move; and when after warm aud I'M
refreshing night our rear division marched out OF
Bay-rree Camp, two pack animals end i've riders
completed the cavalcade. Half a mile beyond the
gorge the trail struck the base of steep ridge.
about 1000 feet higher than our camp portion
of the Santa Ynez range for which our guide knew
no distinctive name Beyond that lay deep
depression called Pine Mountain Valley; and be-
yond that again rose Mount Pinos our final des-
tination. The crossing of the Santa Ynez was said
to be the worst part OF the expedition. We halted
at the foot to adjust saddles and tighten glrths'
and then began the steep climb through trouble
some brush The ascent is rapid and almost direct,
with few zig-zags and restng-places, and over a
loose soil which sometimes affords but an insecure
foothold We had to draw rein often, to wind the
horses but bard as IT was to go on they seemed TO
find it harder to stand STILL and they scrambled on
at pace which would soon have knocked them up
and us too-if we had not repeatedly checked
them As rule, there is marked incompatibility
of temperament between Cinnamon and all
domestic animals and All Hing had assured us IN
advance that ne not know horseback" Ths FIRST
time we gave him mount he confessed aiterward.
ooh get up-frst time-1 heap scare" On the
present occasion he rode animal too small IN the
girth for any procurable saddle and 1t was only by
,mprovising breast-strap from spare bridle-rein
hat utan hIx6 ali v
made the ascent, however, with celestial com-
posure. and arrived safe at the top resting nearly
on his belly with his hands grasping the maue
and his legs where the crupper ought to be.
superb view of the distant ocean and a maze of
interlacinp valleys awaited us, at the summit.
We did not malt long; the was getting high and
we longed for the shade. The descent on the other
side was rather sharp, but far less difficult tnan
the slope we had just got over. We plunged almost
Immediately into wooded ravine, where magnih-
cent pines some of them six feet in diameter spread
their arms above a variety of deciduous trees. But
more than half the pines were Scared or killed by
fire. We rode down through the mingled spleDdor
and devastation with chOlcr waxing hotter at
every step. In one place the embers were sui
smoking. allow does the fire get III hereY" We
asked the guide. It's set on purpose" he an
swered. "There'd ought TO be law against it.
These Spaniards are awful for burning timber.
Thew set they woods aire soon as they get thick
enough TO burn. Some of 'sm want to make sheep
pasturer-it is Government land all about here.
upon which herders range at will" but most OF
,em last want to see big blaze. When they
leave a camp instead OF putting out their IRE, they
set it to the trees for the fun OF the thing Its an
awful shameD But am afraid the shame is not to
the Spanish Californlans alone.
We rode several miles through the Black Valley,
ding In that course about 2,OOO feet OF inc
same elevation we had climbed on the other side;
and in the hsas OF the forenoon we Issued into
series of sandy basins shut IN between Mount Plnos
and the Santa Ynez ridge. Sharp but inconslder-
able divides marked of these burning. brush-cov-
cred flats from one another spurs of the mountain
cut into thom; little creek winch becomes the
Sespe River ran along their edgc. Interminged
with the chapparal were bare patches which re-
Elected heat like that Of furnace, and patches OF
tall succulent grass at which the horses snatched
eagerly, and everywhere grew maze OF flowers.
Enriched by the wash from the encompassing hills,
and watered by a sluggish brook, this depression IN
the heart Of the mountains oilers the richest OF
pasturage long after the heritage elsewhere has
been dried up. We kept our way four or i've miles
over the grass and through the bush. suffering
severely from the temperature and the glare ana
at last, pushing our way through a bad thicKet
and crossing divide OF one or TWO huhuroo Aeet,
we entered basin greener and more secluded than
the Others and found our companions IN thlcket
of alder and cottonwood by the side OF the stream.
Here was the Pine Mountain Valley, Of which we
had talked SO often as a pleasant campIng-place
preliminary 70 the mountain. We were heated
through when we reached it, and it offered MS only
a scanty and Intellectual shade marshy brook.
bad water and myrads OF insects The resolve TO
get out of 1t early the next morning WAS prompt
aud Unanimous; and unpacking nothing but neces-
sary articles We spent the blazing afternoon dodg-
ing the sun among the alders.
Night and venison stew mended our tempers;
aud it was some comfort to watch our delighted
horses, which Toasted grcedily in the high grass,
u ILL ol.o ll.r.r.n