Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1883-12-24
Surf-Riders of Hawaii.

Owing to the entire absence of coral reef,
the surf at all times breaks on these shores
with prodigious violence. But in stormy
weather this 10 of fcourse increased tenfold, and
the great green billows come rushing IN with
overwhelming force. These are the delight
of the surf-riders. Each carries surf board,
which is simply wooden plank, and raimsnt
is of course almost nal. Plunging beneath
the first wave, they rise beyond 1t, and swim
out to sea till they meet another, and then
another. in each case diving just at the right
moment to allow the billow to pass over
them. If they miscalculate by one second,
the surf, catches them and dashes them
shoreward, when they need to be good
swimmers to escape being battered on the
rocks. But long practice makes perfect,
and many of the surfriders dive ssfely be.
meath each successive wave, till they reach
the comparatively smooth water beyond the
swell. Then laying themselves fat on their
board, they prepare for their exciting ride.
Their first care is to select = winning sea-
horse. They calculate that every third wave
is larger that the rest, and rushes higher on
the beach; so their aim 10 to mount the big
gest billow, which carries them shorewafd
at almost tightening speed.
The ride has all the excitement of . race |;
for should the rider fail to keep his plank 1t
exactly the right angle on the crest Of the
green billow. he will be evertaken by the
breaking surf of the wave which follows, and
to avoid this must again dive beneath It, and
swim out to sea to make q fresh start.
Should he fail to select the right wave - his
courser, and find himself ON one of the lesser
waves, the result is the same, 40 1t will break
ere he reaches the shore, and he mnst again
do battle with the pitiless surf and swim fer
his life. But the man whose skill and luck
are alike good has wildly exhiiarating race.
He lies poised on the rushing wave, appar-
emily in perfect security, with the tumultuous
waters and the dashing surf raging on every
side. If he can direct his course toward the
sandy beach, the wave will carry him right
on to it; but there is always danger of being
swept On the cruel black rocks where the
abest steerer finds 1t hard to discern the
narrow passages through which the sesthing
waters rush so madly and often he 10 compel
led to abandon his trusty surf-board and
again turning seaward, plunge beneath the
wave and make his way to some point where
he can swim ashore in safety. His surf. board
is probaly reduced to splinters in . few Sec
onds-a loss which is to him as serious -
that of favorate bat to . cricketer.
The boards most in favor are made from
the wood of the viri-viri, which 10 very light.
1t grows in the mountains. and il much used
for making fences, as it is = kindly shrub.
You have but to stick one of its branches In
the earth, and it takes root and soon 10 COW
cred with blaze of scarlet blossoms. A good
surf-board is about an inch and half In
thickness. about eighteen inches wide, and
eight feet long, and should be slightly hol-
lowed down the centre, and rounded at one
end 1t is stained black, frequently rubbed
with cocoanut oil and preserved with the
greatest care, being wrapped up in cloth and
hung up in some safe corner of the house.
1t is called papa he natn-which meaas
wave-sliding board-and 10 30 named from
the papa, or slegde, formerly used in game
called horua' which exactly answered to the
toboggan of the Canadisns.- Havpev's Week
In