The Penn's Grove record., 1883-10-27
For the Fair Sex.

ISL
The new Loiuse velveteens simulate
and are invoiced ~velvets.
-Bourettes are again in vogue, but
they are not like the old bourettes.
The bulk of the silk importationt
this fall are Ottoman reps or travers.
For the short coats the Melton
and West Of England cloths are very
popular.
-Waistcoats or plastrons, plain OF
plated, appear on almost all new cor,
sages.
Embroidery cut out and applied on
wollen and silken stuffs will be much
used.
-Cheviots come in stripes, checks
and large blocks, in all the combina.
tions of colors.
-Sashes are still greatly in favor fol
the adornment of young ladies' festival
and dinner dresses, those with choice
patterns or Powered centres with satin
edges being preferred.
Two apron oyerskirts-one long
and square and caught up on the left
side, the other full, short. rounded,
and much looped over the hips-are
seen upon the latest i~mpartations from
Paris.
-'"Tel-el Kebir" is a new cloth for
costumes, much resembling albatross
cloth, only very much thicker. 1t
comes in monochrome patterns, and
also in brocades some of which are very
gorgeous.
The first importations of fall dress
goods are rough-fnished cloths in
camel's hair of single color that looks
coarse, but are of fine wool, with that
oil finish that makes a fabric agreeable
to the touch.
Since we are speaking of these plain
skirts let us add they are made of all
materials. There is no flounce, nothing
but a velvet ribbon about an inch wide
and placed now at the very edge, now a
little distance from it.
-Silver-gray mohair dresses, made
to fit perfectly and trimmed simply with
self plaitings, are among the most lady
like and serviceable of travelling cos
tunes. They are not affected by damp
ness, and shed the dust with a good
shaking.
Quaker gray, amber, dove and sill
yer satins are imported, made in superb
and elegant simplicity with court trains
unadorned, the only trimming upon the
dress being a bertha and frills at the
wrists of old lace of rare designs and
value.
New autumn cheviots, tweeds
serge and basket cloths are mostly in
plaids, in even or irregular patterns and
in quiet neutral tones of fawn color,
nuns'-gray, pale golden-brown, and the
like e~nlivened by stripes or dashes of
scarlet and gold.
"A novel and dressy bodice for
evening consists of a short zouave
Jacket of tinted silk or satin under
meath which is worn a dainty waistcoat
made of frille or Persian null, laid In
softest folds I've the shoulders and
narrowing at the belt. From here the
folds flow loosely and strap around
the hips, to be caught up with
drapings of the dress skirt in the back,
forming light paniers underneath the
edges of the zouave, which only reaches
to the waist.
-Redingotes and polonaises will both
be worn. The two are often con-
founded. The first is a masculine, I'm.
draped affair /; the second may be bun
chy, trimmed and dressy, worn for a
quiet house dress, a street suit, and
equally well in full dress--all depending
upon material.
The polonaise just out has a full
blouse waist, belted at the waist-lin
skirt more or less draped. Another
style that will take better with those
who need no building has a pointed vest
of contrast in velvet, plush, or puffed
satin
-Basques are no longer plain, simple
affairs buttoned from throat to edge
but they are in a variety of styles, witt
a plain vest with side pockets (quitt
manly in effect, or the vest may form
two points at the bottom, and the
waist close with three buttons or a class
over it at the waist-line, then cut
away above and below. Again the
vest may be beautifully embroidered o.
trimmed with rows of narrow velvet o.
braid.
The Moliere puff, which is a yes
gathered in at the neck, again at tn,
waist-line, and falling below in full
ends, lace trimmed, is very dressy snC
will take well where lace and satin ar,
to be used.
Sleeves are set high and bouffan.
in the shoulders, both in dresses an,
coats. Abroad they are wearing sleeves
gathered and banded in at the wrist
but that does not take here. Even thu
bouffant shoulders is worn by but few
whereas there are but few formsto whom
these high sleeves are not a positive ad
vantage,