Stephens City star. (Stephens City, Va.) 1881-1883, 1883-05-19

cious! rich. tender, delicately favored
and bonelessl l drew my box toward
me, nodded approvingly at the attend.
ant, and enjoyed the delectable food.
The smiling girl brought in box af
ter box, the contents of each being
nicer than the last. "How do you
contrive to render the skins of the fish
so tender?" 1 asked the girl. II dc
not know" she answered, glancing
timidly at the mats. "The cooks never
permit us to learn their secrets. If
you would like to visit the kitchen,
they will no doubt explain everything
to you"
Now for the BILL" said my compan
ion, reflling his pipe. Altogether
you have given us very tolerable
meal" In a few moments she came
back, carrying small, scoop-like tray,
in which was placed a slip of paper
containing the. reckoning. This she
pushed along the mat toward him;
then she bowed and remained with her
face close to the floor, while he minute
ly scrutinized the document. Taking
his purse from his sleeve, he dropped
some paper money into the tray, and
remarked in low tone: "You may
keep the change" (ten cents).
His munificence almost overpowered
the waitress, who bowed repeatedly
and gratefully murmured, "Your gen
erosity resembles that of foreigner.
Any one can see that you have trav-
eled." After we had smoked awhile
we rose, quilted the room, and, de
scending the ladder-like stairway, the
steps Of which were polished as smooth
as glass, slipped on our foot-coverings
and entered the kitchen. On the hard
earthen floor were rows of little char
coal furnaces, provided with iron rods
that served as rests for the skewered
eels. #Ef S;
Maroki, whose only failing was a
weakness for bowihg and politely
sucking in his breath between his
speeches, led the way, and was exceed
ingly attentive. Pointing to a range
of tubs containing fine specimens bf
anguilla tenuirostrii, he remarked:
"These were caught this morning;
they were the most expensive fish in
in the Nippon Bashi market. Are
they not worth looking at?"
"How do you contrive to SO com
pletely extract their bones?' 1 de-
manded. "Our cooks cannot accom-
plish the feat" Motioning lightly
clad servant to approach him he said:
"Some customers have just come in.
Prepare an eel in the presence of,these
gentlemen"
The man, who evidently took great
pride in his work, selected a vigorously
squirming fish, struck it's head smartly
on7a wooden block placed upon the
floor. and, kneeling by it grasped the
creatures neck, inserted knife in the
left side of tho vertebra and dexter
ously ran it down to the tail; then rap
idly applied his instrument to the 9TH
or side 81 the backbone, and repeated
the process, leaving the eel split open.
Holding, up the head, to which was at
tached the vertebrB and lateral. bones
inclosing the intestines, he bowed and
said, "There is not a splinterleft in the
fish,"
"That is So" proudly remarked the
II only employ the most
skillful men and cooks" The opera
tor washed down the block, chopped
the f1attened eel into three-inch
lengths, and shouted to cook who ad-
vanced and removed it on a dish.
The next process was mysterious
one. and was performed behind
screen, from whence the platter of eels
was presently handed out to one of the
oroilers. My opinion is that the fish
had simply been plunged into boiling
water to make the skin tender. We
to range and saw a cook |
'kewering the pieces of eel on long
bamboo sp.ints. Then he placed them
IN the rods over the glowing Goals, and |
when one side was Drowned, dexter
,usly picked them up with a pair of |
ron chopsticks and turned them. AT
,er they were thoroughly cooked he
seized the fish with the same instru-
nent and plunged it into vessel con-
aiming old shoyu, which was as thick |
IS dark molasses. The steaming unagi |
we're then drained, placed in lacquer
,ox, and sent upstairs to the CUSTOM
,r. -.tt-
1--WE never prepare our eels until
hey are ordered" remarked the pro-
'rietor. No matter how busy we may
'e, ! will not have the fish killed be-
orehand."
"What do you do with the bones?"
asked.
1--WE boil them down into a delicious
ely. such as that with which you are
erved. Nothing is wasted in this es-