Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-03-03

perdition. EnglishwOmen wore stout sensible
shoes and walking boots long before French and
American women could be induced to put them
on, and 1t is mainly because of the walking ex-
ercises they have always taken and the freedom
demanded for their feet that any considerable
difference of size has been remarked between
the feet of English and American women. The
American girl of to-day can show clean ave
rage with her English cousin.
THE sUPERFLUITIEs OF WOMEN.
The superfuOus woman has received great
deal of attention, but the rapid rate at which
women are getting rid of their superfiuities
scarcely excites remark. The reason is because
1t is the interest of the dealers to sell them. and
newspapers are habituated to writing up the
fOllies and extravagances of women, not their
economies or restrictions in the matter of ex-
penditure. 1t is probably, however, q general
tendency that operates in this instance rather
than an effort with deliberate purpose to in
spire it and furnish the motive The veil is q
remnant of mOnastic and feudal seclusion, and
has been disappearing, bit by bit. for the last
half century. Fifty years ago it was very long
and wide, and the thick double Grape veil of the
widow reached nearly down to the ground.
Since then it has, year by year, grown smaller
by degrees and beautifully less. until ladies, in
stead Of buying the regularly made article, found
substitute in any little strip of lace that would
mask the eyes and nose, and this being found
detrimental by physicians and absurd by them
selves the cherished veil has disappeared
altogether except in gauze for tourist pur-
poses. The veil of the widow dies hard
but it IL greatly curtailed both in length,
width and thickness. 1t has begun to dawn
upon the female mird that killing women with
lack of light and air behind folds Of double
English Grape s nOtfar from the folly and cruelty
which offers widows as sacrifice upon funeral
pyre. and therefore Grape wells are gradually
disappearing altogether, have ceased to be
ObligatOry-in fact, have gone to the bourne
from which the widows cap never returned.
But the veil Is not the only superiority that
seems to have become superfluous. Where are
the lace and linen cuffs. the spreading ties, the
bows ut the throat, the scarfs. the f1uttering
ends here, and the rOsettes buckles and Orna-
mentatiOns there, which formerly made any
assemblage of women look more or less like
rag fair? Gone--yery largely. The best-drcssed
and best-bred young women are models Of neat
ness; slightly yOungmannish intheir weil-itting
Newmarket coats or redingotes, the close Derby
hats, and thick walking boots. and undressed
kid Or dog skin gloves. Round the neck is a
narrow rim of collar, held by gold or pearl
button; in front of this is cravat or silk tie
its knot or small bow fastened with horseshoe
pin. The dress is simpler than that of young
men, and only the skirts prevent it from being
more convenient and as well adapted to all
emergencies. In the drawing-room the dress
maker still maintains her supremacy, so there
is as much useless frippery there as ever; but in
the street the tailor has come to the front and
when he Is true to his instincts effects sautary
changes, or at least assists in bringing them
about.
Headgear has recently been at stand still ex-
cept in mere matters of detail There has been
nothing picturesque to fall back upon-hstori-
cally-art and royalty have been alike drawn
upon until they are exhausted: Gainsborough
and Rembrandt, Van Dyke and Sir Joshua Rev
nOlds, Valasquez and Titan, Reubens and
Raphael. Henri Quatre and Marie Antoinette,
Josephine and Mary Stuart, have stood with
many others for creations as hideCusly unlike
the originals as TOussands wax figures like the
persons they represent, and have been revived
each season until now they are all in themarket
together, and ladies who pay their money can
certainly make choice. But the result is not
as yet order. 1t schaOs. Anthe manufacturers
can do Is to ''feef' the market by sending out
samples and watch which way the wind blows
for the current season. For three years past it
has specialized the large hat and the small bon
net, with a penchant for the moderate poke on
the part OF the elderly and homely. or those who
have not confidence in the correctness OF their
faces and features. AS a protection to little
irregularity Of eyes nose or mouth. the poke is
Invaluable. and has besides sort Of quaintness
very precious to those who can no longer hope
to be picturesque.
The white bonnet once so highly priced has
disappeared altogether. In its place we have
beaded bOnnets-crOWns made of plated gold
braids or cords and attached to soft pulled or
gathered lace brims and tinted satin or velvet,
lined with satin and trimmed with softly curl
ing ostrich feathers. The evening bonnet is in
fact simply the afternoon visiting bonnet or re-
ceptiOn bonnet and has no special character of
it's own at all. For summer wear in the country
it Is said that large black hats and black hose
will be the correct thing with white walking and
garden costumes, and that when terra Gotta red
or crushed strawberry are preferred. hose and
hat must match in tint as we'll as color
m for
but nothing SO good. 80 useful, or that can be
made SO becoming as fine straw and ivory tinted
chip. The old chalky white chips were ghastiy,
but with the chalk-tint the stiff dressing has
disappeared and the chip bonnet well lined and
garnitured has become thing Of beauty.
1T is quite common now with English tailor
made dresses to send close-fitting hat or bon
net made of the material of the dress In the
simplest possible manner These tweed Or
heather cloth bOnnets possess certain dstinc-
ton which very snowy and much-trimmed
bonnet may lack. It shows knowledge and the
habit of getting the best things at the best
places. as well as specializing their objects and
purposes. This requires training and indicates
cultivated antecedents.
very pretty reception bonnet, which may
be considered a novelty, and is suitable for
early spring, has crown which is made of satin
rhadames captOned IN small shell pattern and
pointed with dots Of beads, which have quite a
new and charming effect. The brm ia close, but
set with double row OF small silk pompOns in
two or more shades of the color of the crown,
which In the case referred to was q bronze
brown, and strictly match the costume of otto
pOmpOns has actually created new industry,
for they are now as much used for trimming
dresses as for trimming bOnnets.
JENNY JUNE