Morning journal and courier., 1883-08-14
Fashion Notes.

The latest fashion in guimpe dresses for misses is to form the shoulder strap of two strips of the dress goods tied in bow and ends immediately over the arm
 Among fashionable laces this summer are some of heavier make than usual Among them Needle Gun Chantilly, in heavy de- signs, combination of lace foundation upon which velvet buds and flowers are appliqusd, and a mixture of Spanish and French lace, which is much worn. The Chantilly is pre- ferred ln use with jet trimmings and embroi- derles in beads of various kinds.
 Polonaises of light surah silks, foulards, French sateens, and India pongee have been much worn this season. The favorite way or making them is to shirr the fronts around the figure at the waist line and to let the tullness widen out below into gracefully curved draperies. At the back, instead of Vatican pleat, the same fullness is allowed and shirred in Muir lines at the top, style which Is far more graceful than the stiff fold of wide pleat. Very little trimming is worn upon such polonaise, and if any it is usually lace or embroidered ruff1ings
 Large Leghorn hats are seen at fashiona- ble resorts, and the style of trimming is al- ter1ng little. Large birds, generally two, pigeons, rlngdoves or parroquets of brilliant plumage, are placed at the sides toward the front overshadowing and overlapping the wide brim. White ostrich feathers, too, are "N@-; SASACS VI nAAbC aau TOu OE CEedIA- colored rosebuds, with sprays of laburnum and hlec. Many of the bonnets are really ugly, so exaggerated are they, a sort of paro- dy upon the poke with deep turned-up back and projecting brim which is generally lined within two inches of the edge with dark silk or velvet.
 Neck wear is particularly pretty this sum mer. Rulings of tulle edged with lace 4rs worn round the throat and continued down the front of the dress in deeply pleated plas irons. White lace chemisettes, too, are pop ular, and square and V shaped bodicss leave plenty of scope for such decorative effects Many of them are lined with bright coIored silk or satin, and plastrons of tulle net or cream -colored lace mounted upon bright colors are worn with black or dark silk dresses. Large squares of dotted swiss edged with embroidery make very dressy shoulder capes for afternoon or informal evening wear.
 For evening dress young ladies have very deeply pointed waists, finished of with thick double cord, and the skirts are made with demI trains, the fullness at the back being caught up h thick, irregular putfs at the top. or large cluster of gathers is made and ar rayed beneath the point of the waist at the back under a putting of the material. The trimming at the bottom of the train is usual ly of plestings, quite number of narrow ones graduating up to the top of the skirt or
 
 pleatings, falling a little over them.
 For dinner dresses this season white and thv' most aaeaicsfg Eifffs afe prgfSfred, but heavy and light materials are much used in combination. Velvet brocaded grenadine in all colors, and plain grenadine are used to- gether Velvet is worn with rich lace over costumes of light material. Black chenille gauge is a new fabric, semi-transparent, which is made up over silks of brilliant col or. White and tinted surah silks are much worn by young ladies, and f1ounces of mour- esque or other thick lace are favorite trim mings, the ovsrdress, sleeves and fchu being of the same Flounces of heavier material are also worn, and an old fashion in ''pink ing" the edges is reviving. Painted muslins are worn over thin silks of the same color as the ground of the muslin, narrow Hounces of the latter being carried up the right side of the skirt as high as the waist, the back of the skirt falling in long straight folds.
 The description of crape dress recently made to order for fashionable young lady has an interest as showing how much the ef- feet was owing to the use of beads in trim miug. The crape was of cream color and made up over lemon colored silk. The skirt, edged with the usual pleatings, had double puff of the crape above it. the lower edge having tiny ruff1e edged with gold tinted crystal beads dropping upon frill of the net the drapery at the back was lightly looped back the basque cut very low; both back and front was finished of with frillings of the embroidered net, were also the sleeves. The flowers to be worn with this costume were jacqueminot roses.
 A Paris letter describes the capes and man. ties worn with all kinds of dresses as excep tionally dressy this season. Some are of bead tissue glistening like coats of mail, made to fit close at the back and to fall over the shoulders; others intended to be loosely drawn round the figure are of soft net and lace and are made short at the back As rule such mantlets or capes are black for tour and walking costumes, and cream-col- ored or white for more dressy occasions. Short mantIes are also made of gros de Sicile and bordered with lace and beaded designs A mantle of seal brown velvety gauge Is de- scribed as specially graceful, the trimming consisting of quillings of seal brown lace with deep fringe of bronze beads falling over the lace Such bead fringes are now made in every variety of design, and the cut beads used for the purpose specially e1ec- tive Beads indeed, and embroideries of ali kinds more than ever indispensable In dress. New fabrics are embroidered and brocaded in the strangest designs and 1t Is questionable whether eccentricity is not car ried to too great length when vegetables assume a place as decorative agents and handsome brocades show patterns in which they are prominent.
 Now that gauge flannel is worn by children during summer, linen Is adopted for their dresses. Solid unbleached linen is worn both by little girls and boys, while older girls wear the styles which have white or tinted grounds, with leaf or flower patterns. Plain sage greens, mastics and dark grays make up stylishly with deep contrasting colors, and are trimmed with linen laces, colored and white embroideries and ribbon bows. combination dress has kilt pleated skirt of olive linen, with 8 long sacque upper dress Df iira, i, ond mink rad and brown berries in small groupings. The collars, cuffs and pockets are of the olive linen, edged with lace. The dresses made up with white chemisettes and sleeves now have outings on the shouldars and sleeves are made very full Deep full blouse waists null, nuns yelling, or tussore, to be worn with pleated skirts of foulard and checked silks. Cashmere skirts are made up with ai- ternate pleatings and strips of broad SelVet: Children's dresses have never been gsyer bright colors are much worn. ScarIet oress- es trimmed with white embroidery are worn at the shore and ssshes of all coiors are SILK surah. India silk, or corah or tussore silks They are either entirely plain or are gathered mn ali the ends and finished with 8 long thick tassel made of half-inch gros grain ribbons in three colors. one of which is always dark, but never black. Belts, too are much worn by little girls, usually of alligator skin or broad striped canvas, with strap DockAes oA oxidized silver.
 Mrs. Bill. of Hartford, wife of Edward s. Bill died on Sunday. The funeral takes place from the house of Capt Bill. of the Hartford police department.
 Leveatte Smith, probably the oldest man in the town of Thomaston, died Friday. the 10th, aged 90 years His life covered the whole history of the place: His health | had been good. though not robust till the day of his death, and his mental faculties clear Within his recollection the village of Plymouth Hollow, now Thomaston, consisted of only seven houses
 The Mechanics union of Connecticut have secured Charter Oak Park, Hartford, for the 2Oth,~ for their annual reunion. picnic and summer nights festival It will be attended by representatives from all over the State. In connection with the picnic there will be 135 yards handicap entries have been made from all over the country to compete for cash prizes amounting to- $25O.