Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-09-27
NEW YORK ~YAsHIoNs.
Fabrics and Patterns for An
fumn. ClOth Dresses and
WraPs-silkabWaud VeIvets-
EmbrOidery-Hosiery.
Nav York Tribup. "a.

large portion Of the width Of the ma,
terial, which is Of double width. The
embroidery embraces a variety OIL
styles and innovations upon the old
fashioned work. Among these is the
novelty Of sewing upon cloth Of black
green, or brown; the work dene in
outline stitches in warm Oriental col.
ors, others Of brassy, coppery, and
richer Indian figures, and again in the
quaint beauty Of the cashmere shawls
both in color and designs. A passed
away fashion is revived in a wool EN-
broidery in relief Of self colors upon
wool, but instead Of q continued gar>
land, these appear in large sized dis
tinct flowers, or strange figures like a
growth Of quartz crystals grouped and
clustered from a redish brown ground.
Ribbon embroidery, that made its
appearance earlier in the year, rear.
pears 10 self colors gracefully combin-
ed with chenille and the rich applique
chenille and velvet ornaments. Some
Of the new cloth wraps are trimmed
with the black Krimmer and Astra.
khan fur. Notwithstanding the mag
nihcene Of the fabrics employed in a
costume, 3 certain economy NAV be
observed in the combination Of two
materials, a velvet brocade with plain
velvet, and plain velvet with ottoman
silk, and a rich brocade with satin
surah, and the new tapestried silks,
The first impression received of these
superb costumes is that colors are no
longer TO be matched, but contrast Of
both in tint and in fabric.
The difficulties attending the passed
away Greek sheath like costumes cap
ped by French bonnets and Maud
Muller hats are happily overcome BY
the consistent and captivating Louis
Quinze coats, a species Of basque
having a full polonaise drapery behind.
A vest is attached and adorned with
graceful frills Of lace, such as are seen
in old pictures of the French court
dress. The coat reaches just below
the hips and the vest differs from the
usual fashion in being what is techni,
cally called soft, as in a shirred plas.
ton, Molliere puffs, or a portion OF
silk or satin fastened at the neck and
kept in place by one Of the pretty
clasps Of pearl.
CLOTH FABRICS AND COSTUMES.
To return to the cloth fabrics; the
rough bison cloth, which is like a
coarse blanket, is iorty-six inches
wide and % a yard. This has been
for the summer months a caprice Of
fashionable French women for travel
ing, seaside, or mountain wear, and
together with shaggy rough ulsterine
cloth will be adopted here for autumn
and winter wear. These mostly take
on two tones Of n color, or again,
are made up in contrasting %colors.
Bison costumes for $50 are graced
with outline embroidery. which is in
questionable taste. Tailor made
dresses are revived with greater, if
possible popularity. These are nat
urally made of soft, fine wool stuffs,
such as tricote cloth, camels' hair
flannel, serge, cashmeres and tartan
plaids. These suits Of one shade are
either ornamented with braided pas.
sementeries or the narrow hercules
braid, braided on the material in the
knife braid design.
The cloth redingnotes are seen in
fresher colors this season, such as
snuff brown. beige, mahogany brown,
smoke gray, purple dahlia, sage and
olive green, and fawn. With Mrs,
Malaprop, "misfortunes should never
be anticipated till they are passed."
but the latest styles OF making these
cloth suits is OF the masculine frook
coat, double breasted with rolling
collar, and precisely follows the mans
coat in the back; in the back seams,
left open, the pockets are severely
simple. set inside and only the open
ing visible. The sleeves are very high
shouldered and are buttoned at the
wrist. The important feature OF
vests for cutaway jackets and coats
appear in various shapes; the Cont.
mental with quantities Of little pockets,
the Breton and the Elizabethan with
sharp points.
Painfully thin arms will no Longer
be made visible with the new sleeves
that are much longer and more grace,
full. II is rumored that the angel
sleeve is to be revived. These styles
are generally adopted, and there will
be later a number Of other wraps
added in visites, paletots, raglans and
cloAks. In the gay carnival OF color
fine black camels' hair costumes stand
in agreeable relief. a'ai 5.4N
For the street black stockings are
exclusively worn. Upon other occas
sioRs the fashionable colors are seen.
OF primrose, citron, several tints OF
herb green, dark wine and copper.
Beautiful silk stockings are of open
lace work aud embroidery by hand.
Others have real lace inserted between
embroidered stripes.
SOME POPULAR TOILETS.
1t is a great mistake for those who
have to practice economy regarding
their dress allowances to purchase
ultra>fAshionable materials, which are
unmistakably stamped with the date
Of their debut and receive the atten
ton given to o poor relation. 1t is
wiser to have as few dresses as possi-
BILE. Among the economical toilets
easily arranged is one composed Of 40
Ottoman Amert cab silk skirt and
cashmere ~polonaise Of the Albani
shape, Of the same shade, embroidered
in silks also of self color. Sets in sp.
plique Of velvet or silk are used on the
drapery and corsage. The Albani is
graceful and simple, tight fitting,
hanging plainly in front, the waist be-
hind cut into a deep point, beneath
which the back drapery is arranged.
The front and cuffs are trimmed with
wide passementere,
The Cyrilla pattern is a, very elab
crate walking skirt. The underskirt
is trimmed all around with deep box
plaits surmounted across the front and
sides with q deep puff shirred at the
top. Paniers shirred across the top
form the drapery, and the back drap
cry is exceedingly bOuffant. Trimming
is unnecessary.
The Electa street costume is made
either Of Ottoman cloth, or Of velvet,
or the nonpareil velveteen. This de-.
sign combines the Newmarket polo
naise with q very full back drapery;
the skirt, which is only visible on the
front, is made Of box plaits on a lining
A narrow plating surrounds the en-
tire edge. The polonaise is trimmed
with silk braid passementerie. A very