Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1883-06-29
DRESS AND ITS VOTARIES.
SUMMER NOTES FROM FASH
IONS WORKSHOPS.

IONS WORKSHOPS.
Country Dressing-Toilets at Weddings
The Presentations of Fashion and the
Art Element I'm Dress-The New Fea-
lures in Lingerie-The Latest STYLES
in ParasoIs
NEW YORK, June 2S.-,June has been fa,nous
for the number of weddings which have taken
place under its rosy auspices, and which recall,
the time when it was preferred to anv other
month IN the year, probably because flowers
were more easily attainable rather than on
account of the good fortune the month was
supposed to confer on the happy brides and
thelf fortunate gro0ms. Now they are con-
sidered interesting chiefly because a June
wedding is always pretty wedding.
Roses bloom everywhere and blossoming vines
trail irregularly or form lovely screens where
few weeks before only smilax hung.
Larger latitude is also given to toilets. The
bride, of course. must wear the conventional
silk or satin, but the bridesmaids flutter about
her In dainty white null or nuns veIling.
short and with belted waists their straw
hats trimmed with flowers and their whole
appearance as fresh and sweet as a typicaI
June morning.
or toilets recently worn and approved as
possessing the eaehet of good taste, one bv the
bride was of rich white corded silk bride,s
Knot so large a cord as ottoman and not
lustrOus, but with a soft heavy satin finish
Bodice: a low square, felled in with Duch-
esse lace and finished with a ruche AZ fhe
throat, in which were thickly set natural or
auge blossoms. Sleeves: mere rim of silk
and lace. skirt: long trained, perfectly plain
but finished with a pleating both inieriOrly
and eXteriorly-the outer one of silk fhe In
ner one OF lace. The bodice is straight around
Ihe waist anu oelted In with satin, which forms
large rosette upon one side. The veil of tulle
trailed nearly to the edge of the skirt. and
was fastened over the back hair with Dearl
pins. The bridesmaids dresses were of white
II india null short trimmed with Oriental
lace. The bodices were full. crossed over.
and Delted in with mOire ribbon. The sleeves
were to the elbow, and the hats were trimmed
with flowers matching those they carried as
viOlets.
Two young ladies who were not brides
maids atE acted a great deal of attention at
TINS wedding by the taste and simplicity of
dresses of Quaker gray surah, pleated, and
completed by beautifully fitting Jersey bod
ices. Over the very close-fitting sleeves.
snort upon the arm, were stretched undressed
gloves OF ivory kid and small poke bonnets of
ivory kid were stylishly ornamented with
group of ivOry.white feathers.
Another dress showing the extent to which
leather is used, was of biscuit colored satin
with piping of gold and black, and outstand,
ing collar of gold embroidered lace cnfrs 10
match. The hat was brown biscuit shade
straw, with gold rim. and five straps of light
brown kid around the crown. fastened with
small, real gold buckles.
A short toilet, considered very distinguish
ed, was wholly of cream satin and gold lace
win bonnet composed OF satin rOleauX plait-
ed into trellis work for the crown: gold lace
front; gold rosettes upon the side: and gold
lace drapefy upon the hips, drawn to the left
with gold rosettes. The gloves extended upon
the upper arm, and there was a Queen Anne
collar of gold lace at the throat
Embroidered nuns yelling or India muslin
trimmed with lace are used by bridesmaids AT
summer weddings, and present pretty. less
conventional, and more seasOnable appear
ance than the orthodox silk and brocade.
whether made with or without trains But
brides rarely avail themselves of the privilege
which the thermometer in the SOS and g6's
might be supposed to accord them. The long
corded or ottoman silk or thick satin is often
the most orthodox pattern, and the very high
bodice filled In with thick ruche adds to
the burden and discomfort. But there is n
reason for this adherence to regulation
costume in the use to which it will be put for
great occasions in the future-occasions
which will demand costly toilet with some
thing of bridal purity in its tint and for
which mere muslin would not be considered
at all adequate.
LACE COSTUMES.
/ have mentioned in previous letters the
prevalence this season of very rich materials
These become SLlll more noticeable : tho
son advances. The finest dresses ordered for
Newport for married ladies are of black lace.
not Spanish lace, but real thread woven for
the purpose and made over silk or satin
When black is used for lining a light GRADE
of what is known as cashmere MargueTIte is
Geneva silk which has moro
firmness and is quite as durable as the host
twillod silks, while the texture and finish is
that of genuine Jditle, and the cost lin the
light grades) scarcely more than a foulard
These rich lace skirts are accompanied Inv
bOdices of f0wered velvet, the pattern LARGO
and raised above the close gauze or satin
ground.
COlored laces are not much affected bv ex-
elusive eIegdHteS. as they have a common ap-
pearance, unless of very fine quality or artis-
tically embroidered. Spanish laces have been
because they have become too gen.
eral, but there are some very lsvely co'ored
blondes, plain and embroidered. which are
used because they are really effective, and
cannot be duplicated. In gold and hrOnzp
shades they are beautiful, and are made mn
over satin of the same tint, with bodice Of the
satin trimmed with the lace. The skirt is
usually covered with it upon the front and
sides. the short apron forming drapery upon
the hips. The back of the skirt is plain and
pleated; the bodice very deeply pointed back
and front; the sleeves, sometimes draped with
lace, are laid full on the top, but full sleeves
are not favored by the conFentionally fash
ionable in New York,
The least thing that breaks the rigid lines is
frOwned upon, and if full sleeves make their
they are sacrificed and replaced with tight
ones. Delicate tints are in high vogue. and
cream, satin, and blonde OF gold embroidered
laces are used, the latter being almost too
for they lose their attraction
when employed 90 as to become monOtonous
or upon unsuitable occasions. White satin
and lace at a garden party are lovely but
upon the top OF coach they look out of place,
because they are exposed to the effects of
dust, sudden showers, or the gray chilly
changes which often take place in our climate
within an hour.
t'FRoU-FRoU."
'What is the charm" asked a gentleman re-
Gently, "that assails one in an exclusively
circle? | confess myself NOT IN
sensible to it, though | cannot analyze it. and
only know that 1T comes from clothes. not
character. Yet have seen individual wo-
men well and even elegantly dressed without
any feeling whatever save one
of discomfort
sit is probably" was the reply, 'sbecause
your fashionable friends are at home in their
clothes. There is fascination in the sight of
a tint that Is pure and fine; there is exquisite
pleasure In the mere touch of a soft rich fabric
and when the air is filed with them. when
every movement brings contact, and every
glance a heaven of changing color. eyery
sense of perception in ones nature rims IL
the windows of tAe soul 70 see the procession
pass"
There is much, too. in being set home,, in
one's clothes, in wearing and not soiling or
spelling the most DELICATE materials One of |
the good thinga among the exclusively fash. |
onahle IS their exquisite personal neatness.
free from any spot and blemish and ALWAYS |
ready for the public show and parade. Fine |
feathers demand fine birds, and usually sue |
;eed in getting them; but the bird must cul- |
llvate herself and use sef-Gienial il she is tn |
stay fine. 1t is often said that fashionable |
women have new dress for every occasion. /
nat they only wear it ONCE: and the |
ike. Never was greater mistake. The |
majority OF really fashionable women |
wear their clothes more nearly
out" than the same number of cooks and |
1itcnen 8 g girls. They wear them incessantlY. |
hey take them to pieces, they make them /
'yer, or have them made over, they take the /
zeal lace or the rich brocade and have If |
transferred TO, one costume after another, /
hey put Two old dresses together, they will I
wear delicate cream and pink and blue scores /
# times without showing signs of soil. and !
he reason is they are always clean and live +
n rs psrheGtly e ciean atmosphere, without
france OF freah flowers constantly present to
mpart nameless charm to the lovely mate
'lals. working women are not at home in their
pest clotnes any more than working Iaen
hough they usually contrIve 20 look as IL they I
we're. The hapnis5t Flomeht to them is when 4
hey taEe them Of. The habit Of wearing i
ovely ~ things all the time takes away the feel
'le from wearing them occasionally. More
'vefs the woman, If limited means and
economical habits cannot in the nature of
o her, she must select that which will do her
he most service and show the wear end tear
# her life the least. IT, is~
DELICATE TINIs AND COLoRs
re beginning, therefore. to bear the came re-
ati0n 70 dark and useful shades here that thew
10 aor0ad-sthat Is, 10 mark the line between
yAat Is ordinary and useful and what is ex-
usiyely elegant and refined. Poverty NAV
Ilr itself occasionally in white dotted muslin
r pale PINK or blue lawn, but it will not bear
white cashmere in a morning wrapper that is
more expensive than white silk, nor choose
or a walking dress biscuit tint as delicate