Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-11-03

sides pendant drops. which made a giittering
fall, soft yet radiant, the entire length Of the
dress. The association of rich black silks, with
| transparent beaded gauzes. nets, and
grenadines. Is very new and very efFec-
| tive 1t admits OF the full skirt and doubled
effects which are now SO much admired and saves
| weight, very light jets being employed neces-
sarily upon textures so thin and light A din
! ner costume of black Ottoman satin was Com
bned with ruby, the latter forming a shirred
ana pulled front above two Killings Of the satin
| and suggestive liniGgs for different portions Of
| the basque, which was outlined at the throat
| Win double ruche OF gold embroidered gauZe
| and lace. With jacket of brown satin was
| associated lemon colored skirt the front APP
| fhque with brown velvet shaded leaves.
| cravat OF lemon colored gauze was crossed on
| the INSIDE OF the small square at the neck,
| which was finished with quaint design in gold
| thread aud brown silk. forming festooned coins
An economical idea has been seized with
| avldty. suggested by the advent of the beaded
| silks. nets aud laces. full front is arranged
| or some beaded fabric to which is attached an
| upright band or narrow standing collar. This
| may be pinned on in second over dress that
| has become defaced. or whose buttons OF trim
| mings require renovation. and q complete
| transformation effected by adding a rucha of
| lace edged lisse. tulle or gold embroidered
| sauZe. OF course the beaded fabric must
match In color
Pink will be fashionable again this winter. and
| Tor an opera dinner was made recently basque
| over skirt of shell pink Derveilleux. The
| square bodice was outlined with pink feathers
and interiorly with standing rufle of fine
MechlIn lace. necklace of pink-tipped shells.
win reversible wire setting. WAS worn with this
! dress and gloves to the shoulder. The most
| beautiful black dresses, and quite number are
| In preparation or have been completed. are Of
| antwerp silk, very rich. and covered in front
| with Jet and real lace, not jetted lace. The lace
| is mixture Of thread and supure. the Jet trim
mings fine and pendant in form, upon a net
work which forms the foundation for these cas-
! Gaze effects. Feather designs are much seen in
! embroidery upon black. and appear not alone
| upon the taber but upon the bodice or basque
| WINTER CLOAKs.
These have somewhat sObered down. They
are not at all SO fancifui in shape or 80 striking
in their combinations of color as during the past
two years. The fact is. the majority always de-
mand that a cloak shall be adapted to its pur-
pose. They do not want lowered dressing
| gown or wrapper-a SNOWY costume over an
| other costume-but a garment for warmth and
| cover, and the cloak is obliged to come back to
this. Even the ulster has stopped coquettng
with draperies. which were out of place and
only rendered it unfit for it's purpose and has
come back to its original simple form, with the
| MOOD lined with color, il color is wanted for a
finish. The finest clOaks for the street and Wis.,
iting are OF plush or velvet brocade. with otto
| man. armure. or matted grounds. They are
|
also more Of the long paletot than of the dol
man shape, though they often have the dolman
| sleeves. Apricot, primrose and amber shades
are employed for the quilted satin Innings. in
stead of the hackneyed red and old gold. and
| the trimmings are very soft, and full chenille
fringes and ornaments. Very simple. yet lady
| like, clOaks cut close to the figure and high
| upon the shoulders from thick dull Ottoman
satin. The sleeves are long and open, lined
| with quilted satin and bordered like the cloak
! a ia NJ thG tnni rS1E Inch IF
| which the collar is composed. 1t may be fas-
tened with clasp at the throat CT tied with
blacF satin ribbon. but the front is held by large
| invisible hooks and eyes.
Warm c!oaks for elderly ladies are beautifully
made out of fine, furry. black camels' hair. lined
with black silk plush. and finished with peier-
! Inc collar of the same This Obvates the neces-
sity for furs except muff. Instead a ruche of
| lace or a fichu Of crepe de chine may be tied
| around the neck. and is much more healthfui
and pleasant. This soft, warm cameIs' hair
cloth has been made into autumn cIOaks. which
| may be recommended for ladies' in warm eli
mates throughout the entire season. 1t is. in
effect, long paletot. pleated in to the figure,
| front and back. in fine iengthWise pleats
| from top to bottom, and lined with an
all-slk surah. The sleeves are set high.
are a little full, rounded up we'll and slightly
| flowing, two pleats being laid on the inside of
effect nee" the wrist. A broad belt is fastened
| to the back on the inside and brought around
| in front underneath, thus holding the back well
| into the figure. full ruche of black lace is ar
| ranged as jabOt around the neck on the out
| side or narrow standing collar, and this trim
| ming is repeated on the sleeves. The fastening
! at the neck and down the front is effected with
| dull satin ribbon. These clOaks are not very
| expensive and are very useful They are soft,
| light. yet warm have a look of distinction with
| out being what is called ''dressy," cover the
dress, and may be used as morning dress if
| one tires of the cloak.
| The most elegant plush and seal skin cloaks
are trimmed with otter this season. and there
| is notable absence OF patchy ornaments" so
| called. which are anything but ornamental to
| really rich garment Aguillettes, cords mac
carOOns, and the whole family of hanging passe-
menterie decorations are so quickly reproduced
| in shams as to be almost instantly vulgarized
! and made despicably common. The tendency
therefore among women of real refinement is to
get rid Of trimming, except that which always
| has value, original designs in handwOrk,
whether it be lace, embroidery or painting
Quite the newest thing in evening and opera
| clOaks are the Paisley designs, with gold thread
woven In with the delicate yet richly blended
| colOrings upon cream or tinted grounds. These
are bordered with a full silk and gold tape
| fringe aud lined with apricot or cream cOlored
SIX plush, or with Quilted satin suran aud are
hall d0lman. half mantle. narrow in the neck.
with shoulder pieces, and long ends in front.
White mantles WILL OF course, be fashionable
| (they always are). White siclienne brocaded
VelVet, corded velvet. ana corded silk satin
lined and embroidered with silk and silver. Per-
haps these last edaintiest of all as they are
| the costliest tor the materials are very rich and
| the work always done to order. and after special
designs. Many handsome and distinguished
looking nantes are made of Persian" in
dian" and brOcaded stufs in silk and wool or Of
| materials really foreign and distinctive in their
| designs and it is always to be remembered that
| what is rare is more valued than what is COM
monplace and conventional. though the latter
| may be rated at higher money value
TUCKING AND PLEATINQ
are rage. Among some very novel breakfast
| dresses just imported are long gowns Of finest
| cashmere-in cream, peacock and electric blue,
shrimp pink, strawberry, and rock gray sh AIDES
| that are tucked lengthwise from top to bolt ON.
| back and front, and trimmed with cascades Of
tinted escurial lace In which are flats of satin
ribbon. Silk cords conf1ne the waist. The
sleeves are little full and slightly flowing easy
upon the arm, and trimmed with lace Another
| style of mourning dress Is cut with mOyenage
| waist. which clearly defines the waist and hips.
The skirt is laid in very full, small perpendicular
| folds around the elongated center of the back of
| this bodice aud to the sides, which may be
| panelled or simply made to meet front formed
| of two killings, with rim of rose embroidery
between in solid. SeIf-contIacting or varied