Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-04-21

from BrentanO's We have an Interesting
pamphlet showing how to make yearly profit
of $500 with twelve hens, by new process tor
which, it is claimed, fOrty-fve diplomas and
medals have been awarded.
WOMEN IN TAILOR SHOPS.
Men Who Cut and Make for Ladies.
THE FAIR SEX BLOCKING TO THE PLACES WHERE
THEIR BROTHERS ARE FITTED oUT-A NEW
TRADE FOSTERED BY FASHION--NOT TROUBLE
SOME CUSTOMERS
From the Philadelphia Times.
"The Patrarchial Order of Adam" by which
venerable name is known Philadelphia asso-
citation of journeymen tailors, lately adopted
bill OF prices for work on ladies' garments and
"try-ons." Any one might guess that charging
for "try-Ons" was meant to head off the ''dude,"
who must have his clothes made over half
dozen times before they are fit to grace his dandy
figure, out the other point requires some eluci-
dation. Times reporter asked leading mer-
chant tailor why the tailors had adopted price
list for ladies' work and was informed that the
merchant tailors of Philadelphia did 80 much
work for feminine customers that it had become
an absolute necessity.
'Why has 1t never been found necessary be-
fore to make sucha bill of prices? Is this new
departure2"
eyes. it's comparatively of late origin. For
many years we have been making few ladies'
coats and Jackets, but now we make whole suits;
that Is all that appears to the observer. The
great boom Is due to the AnglO-mania that is
just now raging in fashionable socety-the fash
ion that demands that anything to be stylish
must be English. Why, If some of the old patri-
OTIS who celebrated independence from English
rule in 1853 could only see the eagerness with
which their fashionable descendants strive to
initiate the manners and style of England's
cockney cads they would turn uneasily In their
graves"
TAILORs FOR WOMEN.
but the ladies. inquired the newspaper man
of the voluble and patriotic tailor; do they as
pire to be English swells, too?'
Eyes; the dear creatures are as badly infat-
uated, If not worse, than the men. With the
men 1t was only change of cut but with the
ladies it is altering the system Of making their
clothes altogether. The men very easily adj
justed themselves to the new order of affairs:
but the ladies had to:take higher step. When
they began to wear the dresses and wraps made
of heavy. mems goods. after the manner of their
cousins across the water, they soon found out
the fact that If they wanted to wear garments
MADE OF mems cloth men tailOrs would have to
make them up The ladies did not hesitate. but
promptly accepted the alternative, and the lady's
tailor came into vogue They soon discovered
that the very pretty. simple and elegant Jackets
habits ana draperles made OF heavy cloths could
not be made to perfection by their dressmakers
and, rather than be out of the style, they
dropped the dressmaker. And. bless their
hearts, we like to have them come. Women
have neither the technical skill to deal effec-
lively with heavy goods in their manufacture
into ladies' garments nor the physical strength
to do the pressing. on which so much of the
elegant shape and finished appearance Of the
tailOr-made garment depends. The best suits
of this sort made by women will not bear com.
parlson with those constructed by first-ciass
tailor. The seams and edges do not present the
same finished appearance and the work through
out is Inferior
YIELDING TO CUSTOM.
"But how about the measuring and fitting:
Do the ladies like that part of the business?"
''Do they like it? A lady who has the spirit
of her kind will like anything for the sake of
the style If there are those who don't like it
they say nothing about it; but the majority of
them would rather deal with men than women.
They come and are measured and fitted by men,
Just as their husbands and brothers are. And
why shouldn't they3 man might as we'll
draw tape measure about lady's waist or
shoulders as around her foot. Oh no; [ think
If you were to ask them they would tell YOU
they get better satisfaction from us than from
the dressmakers of their own sex They have
his ability to cater to their wants and very
readily accept his ideas of taste and style as
correct"
PREPARING FOR THE ADVANCE.
realization of the proportions to which this
new trade for the tailors has grown was given
by member of Chestnut-street firm of mer-
chant tailors. He said it was destined to be
very lucrative branch of the tailoring business.
and is constantly increasing. This firm has so
much OF this sort of work to do that it is open-
ing large establishment adjoining the present
store, to be devoted to the ladies exclusively.
This, one of the proprietOrs says the firm is
compelled to do In its own defense ard to &C.
commodate the trade. which has become Sc
riOus annoyance to regular men customers who
object to having their lady friends fitting about
the room while they, the men, are trying on
their new clothes. The new store will be sepac
rate entirely from the old one. and when it is
opened ladies will not be welcome in the place
devoted to the men. The gentleman did not
anticipate that this fact would keep any of the
ladies from patrOntZing the new store, but he
added that he would not have a woman en-
plOyed about the place in any capacity what
ever. They will have in that department all
goods that are worn by men, but would not ven
ture into fabrics especially feminine, such as
silks and velvets.
ooh, no." he said; 'female taste is too
capricious, and we could not go into the in
tricacies of evening and ball dress They belong
20 the province OF the mantua- maker and not to
that of the tailor, whose strong point is in the
simple and elegant draperies and perfect fits.
he can and does make riding habits that 1T
tighter than the skim but would be entirely lost
in the complicated frils. furbelows and fnss Of
those garments made Of the more pliable ma
terialS."
REQUISITES FOR SUCCESS.
''TO make good ladies' tailor requires allthe
usual training and great deal more besides.
Before he aspires to cut for ladies he should
thoroughly master the trade of cutting and
making mems clothing. Then he should work
tor three years on the making of ladies' gar
ments before he attempts to cut. This course
OF trainng Is calculated to make flrst-class cut
tiers; but it is entirely too exactng for the ordi-
nary American, continued the shop-man men
toned above consequently, the best ladies'
taiiors, and In fact nearly all good cutters too.
come from abroad.
''Of course, men who go through such a
course must be well paid and this makes the
product OF their labor expensive. On lady's
SUIT costing $50 the bill for wages would be
I1iiy $50. The best workmen must be en-
pioyed or the peculiar advantage of having
cIothes made by this system would vanish.
Nearly all the fashionable ladies now have the