Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-04-11
Dress Reform for Men.

Certain English artists have lately been test.
ing some Of the features Of mems dress by the
principle Of utility, sometimes too narrowly
construed. One Of the first things they have
condemned is the cylinder hat 1t would surely
be hard to prove any basis Of utility for that; It
seems equally out Of the question to claim for it
that it Is IN itself ornamental. The best thing
10 0e said 1or 1t Is that many mems faces look
we'll under the black cylinder, however absurd
it may be in itself. There are several good SUBJ
stitutes. The black felt "deer-stalker" fulfills
the requirement Of utility, and is in itself OF
graceful lines; mans face looks as we'll under
it as under cylinder hat. The :" Tam O. Shan
ter, again. as ne plus ultra OF convenience has
| no Objectionable lines In its contour and suits
most faces. The clerical round soft black felt is
as conducive to "respectability" of appearance
as any possible head-covering; otherwise it
would hardly have become clerical
Next after the cylinder hat comes In the con-
demned list, the article we call trousers. These
1T is sad sin against utility in that they ignore
the knee, whereas men bend their limbs at this
point hundreds OF times day. There can be
no question: with any one who has tried them,
OF the superior convenience of the knicker
booker, which does not ignore the knee but
terminates at it. So. seeing further that the
trousers are garment with no claims to grace
the dress reformers propose to relinquish trou-
sers for the knee-breeches Of our grandfathers.
our present coats have not been assaiIed
laughed at; but we question if it could be fairly
ruled inconvenient, or on the whole ungracefui.
when cut without curtness. Probably it could
DE improved by rounding off its sharper angles,
and making 1t fuller Against the usual coat of
morning wear in the present day little has been
alleged as yet, nor do we think there is much to
be said to its detriment. It is not Involvement.
and 1t has little of foolish ornament, unless we
reckon In that category the slit at the wrist and
the Two never-used buttons and buttOn-hOles.
vH,,ko .1okl .l.:~
Deen condemned as useless, and explained as
survivals OF the time when all gentlemen wore
sword. and required these buttons to keep the
sword belt In place; but it is question whether
the buttons might not fairly pass muster as Or
namentai oetall, and in all probability they have
Deen retained IN spite of the disuse of the sword
belt, because they satisfy desire of the eye for
some breaking point at the waist They may
pass, then, as ornaments having relation to the
lines OF construction.
Neck-ties are another article which dress re-
formers would like to see regulated. To con-
struct pastebOard and silk article In sham folds
OF an unnatural smoothness, and fix 1t under the
chin as If 1t were really doing honest duty as a
tie, is manifestly bad taste; these constructions
should De eschewed by him who aspires to dress
passed through ring, or folded fiat. passed
round the neck, crossed In front, and fixed with
goio or Jewelled pin, is the eligible substitute
some men manage this quite fanltlessly already
C.iSAnS-up collars must be condemned. In
SO lar as they stick up they are inconyenent,
and necessitate some fastening Of the back OF
the neck to keep the tie in place, whereas the
turned-down collar keeps the tie In place and
throat. -
Men who care to dress with any regard to
principieIn other words, with taste-will easily
.,liik OUT other details, or see notifications in
Tue views expressed above. which we should be
sorry TO put as dogmas, though they may serve
to set us thinking and discussing.
some OF the reformers call for more color in
mems apparel This is q thing to be desired,
put also 70 De adopted with caution. To run
into colors because black coat does not look
wen Ia picture-an objection frequently made
70 DlacK-Would be rash. The reason given
against black Is insufficient II black looks well
IN actual life as On the whoIef It may be said to do
otI, ID PROBABLE that with carefufartistic guild
ance, such as will not come all at once, men
mlgnt' use more color than they do. In this we
wune guloe, such as Morris has been to
IN carpets and wall papers, But it is not often
that q poet Will turn his thoughts seriously to
such matters.
Texture Is another matter which will have to
be carefully considered There are subtle diff
culties connected with this, az all ladies know,
and subtle successes to be won Between velvet
and SILK OF the same shade there may be saffi-
cient di1erence In effect to make or mar q cos
tune. But here We are on the threshold OF the
miiliner and dressmaker, and therefore pause
discreetly.