New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1883-03-25
THE ms AND OUTS OF CAIRO.
BYLANEs, SHOPS AND MOsQUEs-DOGs AND
DERVISHFS

BY-LANES, SHOPS AND MOSQUEs-DOGS AND
DERvIsHES.
IFnoM AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT THE TRIBUNE J
| CAIRO, March 2.-The unusually cold weather in
the South of France has driven many visitors to the
shores Of the Nile Lord Napier of Magdala is here,
inspecting the ruined forts, and advising the Gov
| eminent as to some changes in armament and i'm
provements In external defeuces. Lord and Lady
Wynward, the Duke of Hamilton and Earl Cath
ness are lettering in the pleasant weather. Sir
Samuel and Lady Baker are seeking health, and the
indeiatgable Mrs. Brassey has just come down the
| Nile, where she has doubtless made notes for
another book. Mackenzie Wallace is gathering
| information about the "Feaheen," aud DIR. Rus
sell (of Bull Rum minges in the noisy throng with
merry jest, bur open ears, 10 pick up the latest
bits of news. Two nights ago great reception was
, gwen by Lord Dufferin at the Embassy, and last
evening Lady Nubar, the French wife Of the " most
enlightened Mosem." he is called, Nubar
Pacha gave brilliant entertainment IN her own
palace.
This is Friday, the Sabbath of Islam, and on the
Shubra road the dark beauties OF the harems In the
gauziest OF wells will WOO the breeEes and silly
court the adnrirng glances Of the relocated hore-
men. 1t IS said that if granted they would reject
the boon of complete freedom as it would serve to
lessen the jealous esteem which they are held by
their proprietOrs. Certain it is that the hldeous
eunuch who sits upon the box with the driver is a
ready go-between In endless ntrgues, and that the
value OF the virtue OF many OF the secluded lair ones
IS only in the name. notable Paoha who had livei
long in London and Paris, on beiug ask ed why with
his liberal upon all other questions, he did not
set the example OF freeing his womenfolk from alb
surd resrains, replied that it was because he had
lived in EurOpr that he preferred to keep them I'M
der lock aud KEY.
Carols certainly fascinating city, but to SEQ ii
under iis best aspects one must abandon donkey
and GrIver and plunge into the narrow James right
or left ask no questions, but just dive in wherever
chance or fancy may direct. Here in the close
courts and alleys YOU lind the life of tine Orient and
here in the deusest byways are bazaars and
the miniature factories that supply them.
There was originally a kind of High street
which ran north and south, and from
this innumerable lanes have divergcd which are rs
crooked as The ways of evil, and redoent OF all
odors from frantncense and altar to garlic
A stick Is an invaluable accompaniment on all
pedestrian excursions, for although foreigners
plentiful flies. the natives still pusu" them with
iutoerable curiosity The raising of the stick will
make man start awav several wards, and fixed
glance. If OF admiration at some beautiful lit
tie girl will cause her to scream aud fy prrcpi-
curiosity cupdity frequently trumphs over fear
there Is deepselted aversion in the Arab heart to
all but those OF his own faith. The advent Of the
English troops has brought trade and security into
the country; and IL Lord Du1erin should carry out
the reforms he has planned, foreign caDital
and machinery will soon tighten the burdens OF
the people. But TO this they appear Indifferent, and
prefer their own sort of civilization and happy
hunting grounds In many n household verses pass
from hand to hand. and hung upon the walls |
bemOanng the condition Of tho city 90 Masr |
Caro-. how hast thou fallen Weep for the fate Of
the beautiful pearl. Weep, let rs bow our heads and
weep. for strange men ride armed through the |
streets"
Tho Musk and tho Boulevard Mohammed Ali have |
cut the old High street III twain and monopolized |
the more modern shops hut the Arab trades are |
sull carried on in the labyrinth of lanes. In one
barely wide enough for two persons to pass the
shops Of the slvermiths, and all the courts leading
FROM 1T resound with the furnaces and belle of tho
workers in precious metals The patterns of their
goods generally reproductions OF the old Cairene
and the willy dealer has always discoored speci-
Of OF these forms To pass Oft upon the curl
GUS traveller genuine work OF the Soudan. With
the execution of articles OF general consumption the
value of which is fixed a preposerous price is
in the first instance always demanded. that shop
ping is occupation Of Joy 10 the gsnter sex, in
other more fashionable capitals Squattng side by
eide upon the shop board the merchant and the fair
shoppers discuss heir coffee. smoke cigarettes talk
scandal, aud every now and then, as if By
accident, return TO the object of the
purchase Fifty francs are sometimes asked for an
article which may be eventually obtained for i've
Time to be Of Importance to the trader
but the hurried traveller finds It trial to his
"a q. har0 In fnrs wit tha
assistance Of dozeu other Arabs, who drop in TO
advise and assist In tho courts of the
Mosque Of Burstan Kalaun, once spa
cious hospital erected by Sultan of
that NAME the coppersmths have estab-
lished taer FORCES, and the sound of many hammers
and the voices of many thinkers now break In upon
tho devotlons of the faithful. In a lane adjacent
groups of tallors cutting and stitching gar
ments embroiderers tracing gorgeous orua-
meDts for tho running footmen and wcavers are
throwng off thousands of yards of gold lace for the
new mushroom Egyptian army There mount aims
Of brilliantly colOrcd Manchester goods for womens
wear stacks OF mysterious articles from tho coasts
Of the Red Sea labyrinths of yellow sippcrs and
such wilderness of red -tocd shoes that one mar
wells how the bare-footed population will ever wear
them out.
Among he noisy mass that throngs the streets the
only creatures that accept Kismet in its absolute
entirety the dogs Generally of the color of the
'ad desert itself. they the most forlorn, mser-
able NANCY mongrels accident ever produced. With
IoIy heads and halfopened eyes. they lie IN twos
and threes In the sunnlest and most announcement
places, and when kicked out Of the way or trodden
lnder foot they make remonstrancc, hut
rail off TO other spot equally pleas
,ant and inconvenient for tho pedestrian
They appear utterly devoid of pluck, spirit inten
ion, and exhibit no emotion, except when they
,atch sight of bone in tho fist of an Arab
nunching his dinner on the sidewalk. They about
ialf wake up then. and surround the diner in semi
circle blinking the bone ia faint sort of feeble
expectancy. Indeed, there is but thing that
binds them TO life and that keep their beat