Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1883-06-02

handkerchief OF art silk or muslin and lace The
V-shaped opening is not only useful, as providing
for pretty lace or decorative finish essential to
the good appearance of a loosely fitting waist,
but 1t breaks up the straight lines. prevents any
appearance Of "baIginess" and furnishes access
to the breast pocket, which is placed upon the
undertakes. and is convenient for notes, letters
and change, as well as handkerchief
THE ''TAnOR-NADE" SUITS.
This original design acquires significance not
only on account of simplcity and adaptability but
also because a reaction may shortly be expected
from the light dress which has now reached its
limits. The ''tailor-made' suits were protest
against the ruffles and rubbish of the dolly
Warden" revival, twenty years ago, and now, or
very soon. practical demonstration NAV be
expected against the indecent and paralysjs-
provoking styles which are now floated under
the general cOgnOmen Of tailor-made, though
taOrs in this country at least have very little to
do with them. The dudne female feminine
form OF dude)-the wearer of skin-tight sleeves
upon long thin arms, of the scant ulster. the
high collar, and strait short skirted Jacket has
already become a caricature; but women who
do not exagserate their own defects and the
fashions of the time IN this senseless way will
very soon feel that there Is an indelicacy, to say
the least, In the degree to which the strict out
line designs have been carried; in the sugges-
Tons OF sex which are conveyed with such strik-
lns definiteness. and which receive not the
slightest modification OF attempt at cOncealment
even on the public promenade.
An additional reason why fashion will soon
need to look about for new departure. why it
mas already taken steps In new or old directions
Is that the restricted styles have reached the
rank and file upon the sidewalk, and exhibit all
the results Of intention marred by imperfect
conception and inadequte performance. The
old, the young: the thin, the stout, wear plain
basques without covering cut drawn. draped.
pfnrp1 l}nf0 nf ron 100 ov,1.n ~
long ruffiing materials. This is blow from which
the tight lifting basque and the Jersey" tunic
will find it hard to recover notwithstanding the
enort to put new life into the latter by changing
the form of the drapery.
THE NOVEL FEATURES IN DESIGN
consist in the deeply pointed bodice in place of
the basque; the ruff instead of the outstanding
collar; the high triple puff upon the sleeve.
which is pleated in all round, but drawn in to
the front OF each arm-hole and fastened with
BOWS OF ribbon, matching in form huge bow
which holds the drapery at the side of the skirt
IN the same position. The bodice is perfectly
plain. and the effect justties a remark several
times made i'm these letters and priBcple often
insisted upon, that it is the sleeves which give
character and distinction to dress. and that
trimming upon skirt or bodice can never rem
edy the defect OF a fiat or commonplace sleeve
Three inches is the length upon a fashionable
bodice. from the throat to the tip of the point,
after 1t is made; but the sides are followed in
nearly to the waist line. and instead of paniers
the space over the hips is filled in with founces
of lace.
Very rich brocades, velvets, satins and moires
are not cut up into 1Ounces for the lower part
OF the skirt. The trimming consists of drapery
upon the upper part, usually arranged high and
fastened at the side. Soft materials, such as
snrahs. fine woods, pongecs. muslins, lawns,
G no on1
nounces and soft sagglng puffs, not very full,
and often supplemented by deep rufus of Orien-
tai or Imitation Mechlin lace.
Plain nuns veilngs are killed and striped
with velvet or satin ribbon to initiate the new
satin or velvet striped nuns veiings, which are
very scarce and in which the pleats are always
laid so that only the stripe shows. These soft
materials are made up with shirred and belted
waists, open in front and trimmed with lace.
one row standing. the other laying down, and.
II for full figure, crossed over in surplice
fashion.
The jersey basque has extended into the ier-
sey tunic, with short overskirt drapery, in
stead of the folds, laid over the hips scarf
wise. as formerly. The ulster has fullness
massed at the back Of the skirt, and lifted into
graceful draDery by the aid of a large buckle,
giving the effect of suit; and the latest polo
naise is coat open in front, with a vest, wide
side panels. bouffant drapery, and a deep point
at the back, which hooks down upon the skirt
and separates the biiOwy masses without Gre
ating an absolute depression.
WIDOWS TROUssEAU.
In recent letter described some dresses
made for widow of thirty who was about to
enter the matrimonial estate the second time.
Early in June wedding is to be celebrated, for
which comparatively young and clever firm
Of dressmakers in Saith street is now engaged in
making a trOusseau that in some respects sur
passes any that has been here and is also for q
lady who has been once married, but remains
beauty. though she has reached her thirty-fifth
year. Charged with the support and education
OF son, yet maintaining her position and hold
upon all that she valued by her courage and her
endowments, she deserves her happiness in hay
ing Won man distinguished by nature and for
tune, whose pleasure in the latter is principally
in sharing it.
The feature Of the trousseau was it's originality.
The principal dresses were the bridal robe of
thick cream white satin, pale blue MORE an
tique, a black velvet embroidered with gold, q
dark green velvet combined with satin, q wine
cOlOred velvet and cloth trimmed with gold braid,
a pink satin surah. a black satin and real thread
lace, white cashmere combined with satin. a
lOuisine shot travelling dress. two white India
muslins trimmed with Mechlin (mOrning dresses),
two cashmere wrappers Zone pink. the other
pale blue), two India muslin wrappers prOfusely
trimmed with lace; and silk hose in half dozens.
SHOES, paTasOiS, Ians, mats or DOnnetS to match
every dress.
To describe in detail would be impossible. vet
it is difficult to resist the temptation to do So
The features in the design of the finest dresses,
both trained and unframed. were the sleeves.
which displayed an immense triple puff laid in
plaits around the arm-hoe and drawn towards
the front of the arm under bow corresponding
to one many times Its size, which held the high
drapery in similar way at the lett of the skirt.
OF course they were set very high upon the
shoulders. leaving only about three inches be-
tween them and the band at the throat, which
was laid In fine folds, and supported very thick
outstanding ruff of delicately pleated crepe lsse
and lace. The bodice in every case was per-
fectly plain, with points front and back,
very strongly accumulated, and at the back
hooked down upon the draperv. which
was made very bOuffant. The hollOws upon
the hips in the case of the pink surah were filled
In with deep falls of oriental lace, which also
covered the soft puffs of the skirt The black
satin also displayed magnificent hip flOunces of
genuine thread lace matching in pattern the lace
drapery of the skirt but otherwise the bodices
were plain and offered admirable examples of q
fact which has been frequently stated that it is
a characteristic sleeve which gives distinction to
a dress.
The wine colored costume is intended for early
fall. 1t consists of a dark wine cOlored velvet
skirt and coat polOnaise Of fine cloth matching
In color, but trimmed with fiat tabs or tongues
u