The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1883-01-14

on tAs Journal and made Il his chief business
from the year 17os. The Journal de- Danes q
des Modes WA published ct intervals Of
I'VE dam. with . pretty oolored plate
Of . lady In fashionable dress. On tho
18th Of each month there wore two
plates. LamSsansare himself kept the
accounts edited the magazine with AZ light .
touch a. possible. and superintendent the en-
craving Of tho plates He attended the the
aires and oil places Of public resort, in'order to
observe tho ladies' dresses. and there he showed
his wisdom. for the dresses that are worn By
ladies' OF taste are the ones TO be initiated.
rather than the stereotyped suggestions Of q
conventional modesto 30 successful was his
undertaking that Lam6sansere acquired . con-
siderable fortune. Hts own attire was above
criticism. At his death his wardrobe contained
a thousand pairs OF silk stockings. one thou
sand pairs Of Shoes. six dosen blue coats. one
hundred round hats. forty umbrellas. and
ninety snuff boxes. The Journal des Danes ct
des Modes relRned Without rival for more
than twenty years. After LamSsangsro's
death hundred similar Journals Appeared In
the field. among them La Node. published
under tho patronage OF the Duchess de Berri.
In addition to books. albums and newspapers.
Fashion also makes use Of dolls for It's progA-
ganda. Dolls serve a. models to women OF for
eign nations. and for . length OF time they
have played their part In this important mat
ter. In 1891 Isabeau de Baviere. the Queen Of
Charles W.. made present OF dolls dressed In
tho latest fashion to the Queen OF England:
and the books OF the royal household mention
a similar gift from Anne OF Brittany to the cole
bratei Isabella OF CASTLE. Queen Of Spain. In
1896 In the seventeenth and eighteenth con-
turtles these gifts Of dolls became very fire.
Quont. They were 30 highly valued that dur
ing the terrible war OF the Succession In Spain
between the English and the French. the Obj
inets OF Versailles and Of at. James's granted .
FREQ pass for an alabaster doll. which, with
dress and hair arranged In tho newest fashion
Of tho court OF France. conveyed the latest
modes across the Channel.
NJ ChallAmel begins his history with the GAL
lie and Gallo Roman period. Tho earliest FASH
lon no records il that OF tattooing. 30 the woman
now on exhibition In this city would have been
In tho height OF fashion had she hourished At
the time Of the anciont Gauls. But 1t did not
take these women long to learn that tattootng
was an inexpensive adornment and might be
followed by the poorest OF them. So the rich
women adorned themselves with many -colored
linen NANTES. fastened with clasp OF eeld or
silver on the shoulder. A veil covered the head
and bosom. The Gallo. Roman woman was ad-
mired for her fair complexion. her tall and ele-
giant figure. and her beautiful features: and
she neglected nothing that might procure her
homage. Cold bathing unguents for the face
and often for tho entire body were to her de-
light and o necessity. She bathed her
face In the froth OF beer. and dyed
her eyebrows with tallow; she colored her
cheeks with vermilion and put lime on her
hair. Necklaces. bracelets. rings. and waist
bands OF metal adorned her person. Tho ward
robe Of a Gallo Roman women would consist Of
tissues OF linen. cotton or silk. Of q sort Of
homeless corset. OF a dressing gown. OF robes OF
ceremony OF tunics. and vlolot- cOlOred man
ties. Canoes and engraved stones emeralds.
savs IMMENSE a'v value to her or ornamonts. Her
jewelled garters were not used to keep up
stockings. which were not worn In those times.
linen. some OF the Gallo. Roman ladies wore t
these garters or ankets on the bare leg as they
MIR mirrors and fans wsre Known to these ladies'
At least twenty women wore employed to wait
rs5e H Iays.1n 81 She Franks changed al. this
large and cosrsely built: wore = long black
arms %ers bars and her boscm e Snoo owe nd!
Contact with the Gallo Romans however. had
cssa.'s court; The most elegant drs.s q
tuniSs Of different colors. one with long tho
other With short sleeves; on tho iest were boots
edge edged Of the ,s SKIRT The was' ESs s Va;
Judith f vile Of Louis 10 psbSnnairs o" Weighed
spiS and pTSso"s stenss Violet bands d %ef 20
en S her brow The material OF her fS GOWNS
was transparent and clinging. so that the un-
a%Sae .s Fl the BODY Widows VIA ss as
bled that OF nuns. To have the nsteps OF tho
hose cut open was sign Of mourning. and also
tention paid to dress by both men and women.
ran riot. With regard to heuddresses. women
fell into strange and costly yngaries. Hoad;;
c sa Ssss Sasd
One denevisye had srsa. custom as feather
by S her irads she dsvotsd il t" the 1scoratio1
OF chapel In tho later part Of the fourteenth
high. heart :shn pod headgoar came into fashion.
1t consisted OF two wide wings fastened to the
to the va" sails " q WIND mill Thsn the !a%o"s
or infamous. hennins" came into fashion.
This was kind OF two horned headdress.
trodqeed into France BY the wife o. Charles
vi. The "hsnnins" were made Of lawn. stiniy
horns Grape. fringe. and other materials were
hung. Il was almost impossible for "a woman
to S"GF cey 'es as"F rs s.
this hideous gear from. sight. It was declared
IN invention OF the evil one and Thomas Con-
necte ~ monk. went on crusade through
France, followed by crowd Of disciples. who
covered with mud and dragged In the gutter
any woman they saw wearing this offensive
headdress. But the "hennins" were only
given up from q caprice similar to- that which
had invented them. Enormous headdresses
were revived In the reign Of Louis XVI. Marie
Ant0inctte led this fashion. and invented somo
Of the most absurd arrangements for the hair
that women ever, disgrnced themselves with.
No wonder TINT when she sent her portrait TO
her mother. Maria Theress that scnndalized
sovereign returned 1t. and said there must have
been aOme mistake.
Agnes of Sorel was one Of the leaders OF
fashion under Charles VII. All women were
lad by her In tho mntter OF dress, and this brill
liant creature, surnamed the Lady Of Beauty"
princess In tho kingdom. her hendyear higher
her gowns more humorous and costly and nor
bosom bare to tho waist" The fashions intro.
duced by tho Lady Of Beauty" were indscor-
GUS In other Irssnscts besides that OF uncover
under under her auspices, she Was the first to wear
miAtcrnI In those lnYa cost !. 500 francS the ell