Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1883-05-03

formerly the residence OF wealthy
citizen, rents for 500 a month. 1t
has the usual court within, with its
running rose bushes in tail bloom
and fountain spinning in the center.
The house fronts the grand plaza
from the south. To the cast is
a square occupied with one story COWS
eminent buildings with row of pill
lars in front. On the north side there
are stores, residences and o&ess,
and on the west side Of the plaza
looms no the grand old Cathedral Of
chihuahua Seen by moonlight as
We strolled out after supper it reminds
one in its antique and solemn beauty, its
perfect architectural proportions, and
even in the tone of one of its eight
bells noting the passing hour, Of the
Notre Dame church in Paris, built
upon the same general style twice as
long ago, away back in the twelfth or
thirteenth century. That the new
world as we call this has such old
buildings seems an inconsistency.
There are three old churches here,
each having a peculiar history. Their
exact age may not be matter OF
much Importance to a lot of tourists,
but the oldest is certainly over 300
years old and the newest one over 100
years.
To sit in the iron seats of
the beautiful plaza. something
larger than our Court Square in Mem.
phis,to hear the splash of the waters in
the fountain that come from
far up the mountain side, and
the music of the military band
near by, to see the crowd coming
and going, some bearing away jars Of
water, others wandering about for
pleasure, and all speaking a strange
language, and to see the moon 60 down
between the silver tipped towers of
the old cathedral, was rare privilege
and pleasure. 1t was a scene full of
strange beauty unmarried by a discOrd-
ant note, all was harmony. softness
and gentle cadence. Nature and art
here combine to make a most lovely
spot, bit of paradise in the waste of
wilderness. We fingered long and
fondly amid the perfumed bowers and
growing shadows of the place before
returning to our stately place of abode.
1t was near midnight, and the massive
doors, under a municipal law, were
about to be locked up for the night
as if to guard against invasion. This
may be a precaution, however, to pre-.
vent Americans from leaving before
they settle their bills. One thing is
certain: midnight is the witching
hour when the doors are locked for
good and the young man who is out
looking for Young Mems Christian
Association or a fandanRo may
make his arrangements to walk around
the rest of the night.
Next morning we dressed hastily at
5 o'clock and went to the window. 1t
opens down to the floor; there is a
little iron balcony in front, with bare
standing room. The distance to the
stone pavement below is fully twenty
FIVE feet. No Juliet would jump
from here into the arms of her
Romeo unless she had a good rope
ladder or a feather bed to throw out
first. The plaza is just opposite. All
is quiet at such an hour, save the
stirring Of few people going to the
fountain for water. Every sight is
strange. Presently Mexican comes
along on donkey carrying immense
jugs in panniers. He sits we'll
back on the little animals launches
and sticks his feet we'll forward to
keep them from striking the ground.
He must be cold, for his bright col,
ored blanket is wrapped closely up to
his nose, and is met there by his
broad brimmed sombrero. This
seems very odd at FIRST, but the num-
Der increases until there are dozens or
hundreds to be seen dasbing about on
donkeys. Many of them are deliver
ing milk to citizens, the donkeys be
ing the milk wagons. Others carry
water or vegetables or other articles
around by contract, or to sell by
chance. None of the donkeys wear
brides. They seem to understand
and obey their masters with perfect
intelligence. Some times, when the
donkey is heavily loaded, the Mexican
walks behind and drives. One man
can control a dozen as we'll as one.
The donkey is great national We
hicle in this country, and it is diff
cult to imagine how the people could
get along without it under the present
condition of things. Wood is brought
in on the backs Of these animals for a
great distance, sometimes fifty miles.
A load almost hides donk ey and sells
for one dollar. Not much fuel is
used, and the supply seems to equal
the demand. So much for the indis-
pensible donkey. He is to be seen
everywhere almost, and is of vast ser,
vice. Seeing the great loads they carry
and the drudgery they perform,
could not help thinking what fine
field this would be for Mr.. Bergh, OF
our Memphis Society for the Proven.
ton Of Cruelty to Animals.
The best way to see this city to ad,
vantage is to walk around it. We
tried this the first day, and walked
fully ten miles, including a climb VI
the worn steps and dark and circu.
lar stairway to the belfry of the ca,
thedral. The tiresome ascent is re,
warded BY a magnificent view of the
city and surrounding country. A little
river trickles by on the north side Al
the foot Of the great valley and noun
tains stand up against the sky on The
other sides at various distances
making combined view not sui