Fort Worth daily gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, 1883-02-23

for woman's wear which gives better
return for its cost than flannel dress
goods
BrNTfNoS AND cAsHMEREg.
A few years ago "buntingr had a
brief season OF popularity ~ dress
fabric, and was made In Lowell. Law
renee aud HoIyoke, Mass, and in
Rhode Island aud Philadelphia. The
same fabrics were also known as "sea-
sides" because OF their supposed supe-
riority for seaside wear. being Of
strong, heayily-twisted wool, calcua-
ted 10 shed rain aud dust, and TO re-
main smooth and unwrinkled In the
moistcst weather. They were made
principally ~ medium aud coarse
cOmbing woods, and were woven IN "a
plain straight weave like other cloth.
In fact, they wereof precisely the same
material as United States flags, with
out the striped coloring. But they
soon began ~ be deterioIated in quail
~, and what few are now made con
sist largely OF the cheapest kind Of
cOarse carpet wool.
The manufacture of 'buntings,n
however, very likely turned the attcn-
ton of some mills TO the production Of
all-worstcd dress goods 10 greater OK
tent than would otherwise have been
the case. The United States navy and
army bunting is made Of No. 40 warp
and No. 30 filling, and the "seaaidcn
dress goods were % about the same
texture. But mills in Lowell, Law
renee, Philadelphia and elsewhere are
now making all-worsted dress goods
Al Inches wide, with double and twls-
ted No 80 warp and ~ filling. The
warp ~ made Of iinc delainc and No
J combing wool and the filling of No.
combing. These goods bring from
S72 cents 10 Sl.2l per yard, and they
are undoubtedly an important step to-
ward the manufacture OF cushmcres
mtrinoes, and the other soft cinging
all-worsted dress goods which are now
so fashionable, and are furnished us
almost exclusively by France, Gcrma-
NY and Belgium.
FRENCH MACiINERY AT MANCHEs-
TER.
a well-known worsted man with
whom the writer conversed the other
day, said: II have always thought
chasmeres and 5oft-worstcd goods
could never be proiitably made in this
country, but ] ann informed that the
Manchester Mills have lately put in II
lot of new French machinery with
view Of making these very fabrics. If
80 eminent "A merchant aud manuiitc-
turer IA the principal owner of the
Manchester Mill Is willing to invest
money In French mules and other MAJ
chinery for the production of cls!.-
mcres, ! am satisfied that such goods
Will be made here at profit"
A pamphlet just published by Tres
urer Whitman OF tile Arlington Mills,
Lawrence, In regard to the rates of du-
~ upon worsted dress goods, contains
the best statement TINT has yet been
presented OF the changes which have
occurred In that class of fabrics: "IPri-
or to 1874, aud while crinoline was In
fashion, luster worated fabrics, or
hard-ilnished goods, alpacas, poplins,
etc, were in popular demand. These
goods were made OF the long-haifed or
'lnstre wool, largely raised in Eng
land. English and American mills
found a ready market for their pro-
duets IN this direction; and under the
tariff of 1867 our own factories were
well protected in this line Of goods; but
~ expanded crinolne went out
of fashion, the ladies' fParis gradual
~ came to
FABRICS
from English looms, and To substitute
therefor the dull and soft materials
made principally from Mcrino comb
ing wool ana woven upon Contincn-
tai looms by the cheaper labor Of
France and the other textile countries,
and with tho ingenious machinery of
the Continent, Ladies' everywhere in
nd ..
nent, adopted the French goods: and
hence the short time of the Yorkshire
mills OF England, and TO II considera-
bic extent the disaster in some of the
factories of America formerly engaged
IN weaving llistre fabrics.
"Thc tariff OF lSB7-~the present
schedule was made without coutem-
plating tie class of dress goods refer
rcd to-~the grades now In fashion.
no meet this condition OF things
and enable the manufacturers of tex
tiles III the United States u produce
this class OF goods, special rates OF duty
should be allowed 10y congress. The
National Association of Wool Mauu-
fncturers asked, therefore that the du-
ties upon such goods should be rs fol-
lows;
Fifteen ceuts per square yard and
10 per cent ri puiorem' Proriied,
hapc,cy, All such goods weighing over
l,ve ounces and not exceeding twelve
ounces per square yard, shall pay II
duty of 40 cents per pound and 10 per
cent al rGiOrcm.n
In issuing this pamphlet AIR. Whit
man has done good service for the
whole womted trade, and his nrgu-
ment will be the more appreciated
from the fact that the Arlington Mills
have mol yet introduced any of the
French machinery adapted TO the
manufacture OF the fabrics referred to-
A NOVEL REQUEST.