The Portland daily press., 1882-06-30
New York Fashions.


[Harper's Bazar.l
Light-colored grenadine is again in favor for
very handsome toilettes for afternoon ana
dress occasions at the watering-piaces. 1t is
chosen with brocaded figures on satin ground,
or else the figure is satin and the groundwork
in the pattern of armure or of Spanish lace.
The pale Nile green tints and the lavender
shades once SO popular, also salmon-colors,
are now revived, and are worn with corsage
bouquet of tea-roses, gloves of the same creamy
hue, and large hat or small bonnet OF Tus-
can straw. The prettiest pale-green grena-
dimes are made up with great deal OF the
ivory white Oriental lace, or else any real Va
lenciennes that has been laid away since the
French laces came in vogue; the parasol is OF
satin, with grenadine cover like that of the
dress, and the large round hat of English split
straw has white ostrich plumes and a green
scarf of Canton Grape. Lavender grenadine
with large armure flower on satin ground
has for part of its garniture great many
small bows made of two shades OF violet;
small bonnet entirely of violets is worn with
this dress, and the white parasol has bouquet
of violets tied near its centre. Another fancy
is the use of velvet with these grenadines. as
in this lavender dress the high corsage has q
white Oriental lace gathered very full on each
edge, and falling upon it; a hip piece of velvet
extends from the vest across the sides, and is
also yelled with lace. The drapery represents
deep apron overskirt with many folds across
it, that are sewed in five different places by
small closely knotted bows in thick clusters,
made OF satin ribbon of the two violet shades.
The cuffs are of velvet, with lace falling over
them from above, and frill Of the lace below
to drop on the arm.
Tha a1aoant black Urauqdina dragsnq
are made of the plain sewing-silk grenadine
without figures and are nearly covered with
hounces of real lace either of the silk Spanish
lace or else black thread lace. The fashion OF
making black grenadines over color was in
troduced last summer, and is still done, e.
pecially when terra Gotta, orange, or geranium
red satin is used. The Spanish lace figured
grenadine was preferred for these dresses at
the beginning of the season, but the newest
caprice is for the satin grounds that have great
balls of transparent armure lace work, and
these balls are two or three inches in diameter
Sometimes these are made up in the long plain
coat or redingote shape now SO popular in
Paris, but the panier drapery that prevails
and slender ladies. The striped grenadines
are always in style, and are liked by those
whose re fined tastes object to striking and con.
sp,cuous things. Satin stripes alternating
with armure stripes of even width are most
used, and there are also many MORE stripes
with armure grenadine. The basque lining
for these is gros grain silk, or else the dag
OPAL silk lining specially meant for grenadine,
The skirt foundation is of inexpensive black
silk. A popular trimming for satin striped
grenadine basques is two gathered frills OF
French lace forming vest and dropping on
the sleeves, and, as heading for the lace; for
instance, six loops, three of which are turned
each way from strap on the inside seam OF
the sleeve, trim the waist prettily. A similar
row of loops passes up each side of the front
and around behind the neck. For the skirt, a
pleated front with apron sides is liked fer
grenadine; indeed the lengthwise pleats are
part OF the apron, as they begin just below the
waist line, and widen out like fan to the foot.
This is effectively done with eight pleats
that are Tapped at top very narrowly, and are
gradually widened out by being less deeply
folded, until thes spread out at the foot over
space nearly three-fourths of yard broad,
where they are edged with lace, and fall on the
two pleatings at the foot There is usually
seam down the middle of this fan-pleating,
and the side breadths are curved upward in
apron style, and sewed in folds to the side
seams, where they meet the long full back
drapery that is widely hemmed on the edges,
without any lace trimming Tho pretty pleat-
ings around the foot of such skirt are two in
number, each six inches deep, fatty pressed,
with French lace three inches wide sewed on
half its width above the edge of the grenadine;
the upper frill laps an inch over the lower one,
and there is grenadine knife pleating sewed
to the silk foundation skirtat the bottom, quite
out of sight, but very useful for supporting the
lace on the hounce above it. The grenad1no
for these pleatings, though used to trim ar
mure and satin-striped grenadine, is not striped,
but is plain like that of the armure stripe.
More snowy black grenadines with pulled PAN
iers are made of the feathar-striped designs so
much used by Worth, and are trimmed with
feathers of finely cut jet wrought like embroid-
cry on Brussels net, and with frills of silk
Spanish lace that has similar patterns.
TRIMMINGS FOR DREss SKIRTS
The correspondents who ask for new sugges-
lions about trimming the foot of dress skirts
are advised that the simplest borders are con-
sidered most stylish. A pretty way OF arrang-
ing silk or satin has two narrow knife-pleated
frills at the foot, which cover about five or six
inches of the foundation skirt, and on these as
healinE 1sA tAzays PAeatoa xanae sAasss
dress skirt cut into tabs. These tabs are five
inches broad and six inches long; they are lined
with silk, and interlined with crinolins lawn,
and are caught upward in the centre in four or
five tiny pleats from the bottom to the top OF
the tab, and after being spread out in fan shape
are tackled together at the bottom. Another Of
fective and substantial trimming for the foot is
Al of cofi,, fhaflo oHo ito ruf-