Morning journal and courier., 1882-07-27

" Nyack " rolled but little and were only aroused from sound sleep by arriving at
 Erie in the early morning. Erie has the best harbor on the lake. Here
 it was that Commodore Perry built his fa-
 nous fleet and the hulk of his flagship still lies here. The coast line between Erie and
 Cleveland is rolling and from the steamer de-
 void of interest
 On the beauties of Cleveland l need not dilate, but should advise every to in-
 dulge in the extravagance of horse car ride We felt that such an indulgence was
 not too great, though at the same time we
 could not help pitying those poor mortals
 who obliged to ride over the worn out
 wooden pavements, while we glided so
 smoothly along over the rails. Euclid ave-
 nue must be confessed the finest avenue in
 the country, still to eastern eyes there is
 here and there an outcropping crudeness, in
 dicative of more wealth than culture. The
 older houses are often simply huge ugly piles of brick mortar and stone, with no
 claim to architectural beauty or fitness. And the glimpses one occasionally gets of the in- habitants and interiors confirm the i'm pres
 sion. For instance, noticed a house of
 magnificent proportions (the same may be said of the barn which was equally promi-
 nent) built of pressed brick and heavily | carved Ohio sandstone with no sign of taste
 to it. lady stepped to the window push ing up the shade, and disclosing a room
 fairly flaming with scarlet furniture and hangings-not another color in the room to subdue the glare. She was dressed in a jacket of nearly the same color, furbelowed black skirt and innumerable streamers of narrow ribbon from every available point. I would not convey the idea that this absence of taste Is predominant, but it is lurking al most everywhere.
 Lake View cemetery now contains the re-
 mains of Garfield The casket is at present
 to be seen behind the iron grating of pri-
 vate vault, before which private of the
 F9gular army pAces constantly. Opposite has
 been built small wooden guard house for
 the accommodation of the detachment de-
 tailed for this purpose. The funeral car has
 been enclosed in glass building near the
 site of the future monument It is 8 plat
 form on wheels. from which six columns rise
 to support pyramidal canopy All IS covered
 with black cloth, and wreaths, festoons, bor-
 ders and cornices of immortelles, tastefuliy
 di attributed, decorate it. The ceiling of the canopy is lined with the national colors in narrow star arrangement and under this the dead President lay on slightly elevated part of the platform.
 From Cleveland we steamed away for De- troit. The Detroit river was described in the guide book as affording G some of the
 loveliest river scenery in America" Had it l not been, perhaps might not have been so disappointed. It seemed utterly flat and commonplace. As at Cleveland the steamer stopped long enough to give us plenty of | time |" to do '' Detroit Here bad taste in domestic architecture is rampant. The only object the house builder seems to have is to | put up larger pile of brick than his neigh Dor, though here are now building houses of | artistic promise. They have a $6OO, ,OOO City | Hall, which could not we'll be worse.
 Lake St. Clair we traversed during the | night and found ourselves at Port Huron l when coming on deck in the morning It | was in this portion of the State that the great l fire of last September commenced, and all l day we could see the blackened trunks of ! fpoha l steamer skirts the western shore, except at Saginaw Bay, where land could not be seen. | The entrance from Lake Huron to St.
 Mary's river is very beautiful, the islets
 scattered about making the course winding | and attractive.
 Along the banks are huts of lumberm en, | half breeds and fishermen, all of the modest ! sort. Sault Ste. Marie, familiarly and To- 1 cally known " as the Soo," started as fish \ ing station, but with the decline of the fish
 has become numbering place. Here the St.
 Marie rapids formerly stopped navigation,
 but some years ago private enterprise cut q 1 canal. One of the projectors, MT. John ! Seymour of Utica the brother of Horatio ! Seymour, ST., and father of Boratio the 1 younger, State Engineer of New York State,
 was one of the passengers and described | most vividly the difficulties of putting
 through the canal, The United States gov ! ernment has since improved and enlarged ! the canal. {" Sufficient time is here given the 4 down the St. Marie Rapids.'s Being "ven- turesome we took the trip, under the guid- ! ance of two half breed Indians, one giaan- | tic fellow perhaps six feet three inches high, and approximately broad. He was one of some thirty or forty Chippewas settled | here. The rapids are not dangerous enough ! to be thoroughly exciting, still there is \ charm about shooting them seated on \ the bottom of birch canoe with Indians for pilots Lock ' io i,ka 1 The fishing in this region is said to be very 1 fine, both on the American and the Canadian ! side. Parties often employ Indian guides | and camp and fish here. Our steamer left l large family party from Detroit, who were | to spend the summer in log hut on one of | the points in the river near the opening into l Lake Superior. They had to bring all the
 household necessities with them, and besides ! seemed to require the luxuries of life, they
 had parlor organ and a cowl
 As the steamer comes out of the river into the broad expanse of Lake Superior a sudden l change of the atmosphere is noticeable. The l weather ever since our arrival on this largest l of lakes has made an ulster an almost indis- I pensable companion, the temperature being ! from 500 to 650 during the day, and reaching | as low 4Oo in the night. We skirted the | southern shore ell the way to Duluth, stop | ping at Numissing, fishing station where
 saw a 40 pound lake trout, and where the catch is often 1000 pounds a day. This ! | which pass inside of Grand Island and so near
 the world famous Pictured Rocks |"
 There we passed too late in the evening to
 see we'll but at the hour most favora-
 ble for the imagination to fancy
 all sorts of curious shapes. Those well es-
 tablished are .'The Sloop," .The Castle, :"
 "The Chapel and ''The Grand Portal '
 This last is an immense cavern some 400 feet
 deep and half as wide, with water 50 feet
 deep at the entrance. The characteristic fes
 ture of the rocks, viz, their brilliant color
 ing, could not be seen. It is from this that
 they derive their name. These colors prob
 ably come from the minerals in the thin strata. which, becoming wet, run down on
 the face of the cliffs, discoloring them.
 One day we spent most profitably among l the famous copper mines at Houghton and r Hancock. The Quincy Mine" being near.
 est the steamer landing, we naturally sought l that, and enjoyed seeing the processes by
 which this rich ore is extracted. To reach r Hancock, we steamed up wild bit of river ? to Portage Lake and came out by ship ca 3 nal, cut to Superior only this year. Tn, waters of this whole river, lake and cana
 passage-a distance of about twenty miles, - are stained deep copper color by the wash 8 ings from the many copper mines on the s banks. Houghton enjoys the distinction O. 2 being the home of Congressman Hubbell, o 8 Civil Service Reform proclivities, who is sait 1 | to have an annual income from his copper in | terests of $5O,OOO
 8 Onr next stop was Bayfield,, pretty fish } | ing place on the hillsides, but only half ar b hour was spent here, as we were due at Du j. | luth that afternoon; the time allowed iron @ Buffalo being five and half days. The day 8 have been most pleasantly spent and hardl d a person left the steamer without regret @ Many have determined to return by her te .- morrow. Our time was spent drinking i y this glorious atmosphere, reading, chattin d with many interesting fellow. tourists an , looking at the ever varying scenery. W :, were fortunate in having many good singer IS aboard and the evenings passed pleasantl 0 listening to them, or dancing to the music C y our ebony walters fiddle. Sunday Episcop, s services were conducted by the Rev. Charle IS H. Smith, of Buffalo. One evening the, k was quite displaysof northern lights, fo 'r which this region is famous. The camp fire
 all along the shore of the lakes a sure ir 1t dication that sportsmen have found where l. go for good hunting and fishing. Deer aI