Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1882-02-03

Armed for the eess~.,. A1Seanst and
Ges-yaes and Materials In Gentie5c:,.
MILLINERY Irr~s

street wear the large hat is gaining i,
popularity 1t is seen bent into f.ocifn
'nApes' or Is worn perfectly fiat and round
giving the effect of an animated plaque wbe,
p'Aced upon the back of the head. Some
'ii"es Is worn squarely across the ton n
Tue mead In the Puritan Cor early Du,c,
''yie) shading the face Evening hat. A..
.ma'l poke and close fitting horseshoe shape.
Inc materials are fine bearded laces. and n.
uich or marabout tips, fastened with fanc,
pins resembling irid-scent beads in var;ou,
uesiens' such as stars. crescents, dice. crsbs
spiders, lizards, horseshoes. etc RI,ct
Ieued lace is still favorite material e.,
evening and dress hats, notwithstanding i.
having been worn several seasons. String,
are seldom worn on evening hat. esnec;.iI,
"hen elaborate neck trimmings are disnIavei
=, menu and strings are sometimes made q,
..ie same lace, those of eolored let in male
tints being verv pretty. The new theatre
oohnets are invariably small and with close
trimmings. Flowers are seldom used
Ioiiarettes are made Of shirred silk. edged
WIN lace. Fichu and long handkerchiefs are
worn close around the throat without rucb.
i"s; anu are fastened with lace pin at the
nech ana a bouquet OF natural or artificial
mowers at the belt in front or left side. Wide
collars of handsome lace are worn x;,h ,ha
richest costumes. Cuffs are generally made
from the same lace bought BY the ward.
FURs AND FUR-LISEp GARMENTS.
For dwinter wear the most seasonable
street suits are trimmed with fur The ma
,eriai may be of velvet. plush. watered silks
brocaded goods or WOODEN fabrics such IA
RQmaIfa hoS anI Al
materials Of this class. A light BASQUE or
close fitting English walking jacket is the
favorite style, with plain round skirt short
enough to escape the ground, either with or
without overshirt- A band of fur about six
inches deep Is placed upon the edge of the
skirt Three inch bands finish the simple
overskirt and basque. When the walking
jacket is worn the cuffs, pockets and reyers
are trimmed with fur. When the entire cos
tune is Of single material an underwaist
OF channels skin Is worn and sometimes
pelerine cape, muf and cap of fur complete
the costume. Otter and beaver in natura al
colors and black, Russian hare black mar
tin. silver, blue and black fox, lynx, and for
mourning Persian lamb Cuffs of fur are
occasionally worn with pelerine capes.
Fur-lined circulars have lost none of their
popularity a comfortable and convenient
wrap. They May be had for any price from
$50 to $1,000. The lower priced ones are of
gros grain silk with Hamster Innings. Then
come the squirrel Innings, with covers Of
Slcilienne, gros grain, satins de Lyon and
merveleux and tremaine. The whole sauir-
rel skin is used, the value increasing with
the darkness of the flu. Mink Innings, with
two or three rows of the tails left upon the
skins, have covers of the same ma terials
as squirrel Innings. They may be bought for
800 AMI upward. The sable lined circulars
are, Of course, the most expensive, as sable
is the most valuable of all furs. One of
these with the sable tails upon the skins of
the Innings and forming the band around the
edge and the collar, is worth $1,000 OF less,
according to the beauty of the fur. Ermine
Innings are occasionally seen. Many of these
circulars are edged with black hare, beaver
or marten fur with collar of the same. but
the majority of this seasons manufacture are
without any trimming except the finish of
beaver or squirrel placed between the lining
and heavy cord on the outside. The collars
cover the shoulders and are of black fur
usually. but occasionally of light colsred
furs. The fur lined circular is considered a
standard article of the winter wardrobe, and
is almost identical with the ermine lined
eloaks worn in England during the coolest
seasons by the nobility of the Middle Ages.
They were sometimes rendered even more
comfortable by the addition of hood lined
with fur for the head covering.
The dolman had been replaced in turlined
wraps 10y the paletot and loose cloak. One
style of these, called the Daunav, has fronts
of satin laid in two inch plaits. The back is
of damassee. and is cut up of fur. The
square Mandarin sleeves are of the damsssee,
and are edged with Grecian lynx of which the
collar is also made. plain brown plush is
lined with red fox fur, and Is trimmed on
neck, sleeves and at the open part of the
back with marabout feather bands. pale
tot of embossed velvet has the square sleeves
inserted at the side back seams, is plain and
loose back and front. with collar and four
inch band on sleeves and around the garment
of black marten. These cloaks have usually
a long bow of satin ribbon at the throat.
For visiting, day receptions. etc. the cloaks
are shorter and more fanciful in design. One,
with embossed velvet for the long sleeves and
back. has the front. sides and skirt portion of
the back of plated satin tremelaine. The
neck is gathered in Mother Hubbard style.
A bow of satin ribbon fasteus the Chenille
and hollow jet fringe, Spanish lace and rich
passementeries are used on these visites as
well as fur trimmings. The plush lined gar
ments are made in the same manner rs those
lined with fur. Seal skin sacques when plain,
are quite short from thirty-three to thirty
SIX i. .ches being the usual length. The dol
man, paletots and Daunays are made as long
As the skin will allow-seal cannot be pieced
and even then are heightened with q con-
trasting fur as trimming.
MUFFs AND HATS.
Fancy pocket mutis are made to match the
trimming of the costume. are trimmed with
heavy cords and tassels. and are SO arranged
as TO open at the top like reticule, and hoid
a portemonnaie handkerchief and number
of parcels when shopping. the prayer book
and hymnal on Sunday. or anything else thar
would be carried in the hand. Belts and
small reticules are also of the fur which forms
the suit. or of funcy furs, such as a tigar cat
lamb skin, golden beaver, and seal and natu.
raj and dyed seal combined, Nova Scotia seal
and chnchilla Fawn skin Is sometime useu
for tobacco pouches. card cases, etc., but has
scarcely made its appearance in dress decora-
,ion Collars and small round muffs still keep
,b,ir plsce. The muffs ALWAYS match fhe
cnIlars are lined with satin and are
entirely without ornament. Inc couars
vary in width. the narrowest being known
As the plain collar, the next width 'he
Eupenie. and the widest is the peierine.
The second width is used on most OF the iur
lined circulars and closks. The escarpe Is
three or four inch collar tith the front eS
.lx.,f q L