The home journal. (Winchester, Tenn.) 1858-188?, 1882-10-25
Winter Dresses,

There Is TO be marked change In the
HinlcI styles for skirts, which, however,
IKE all changes, will be gradual, The
principal variation consists IN the way
he skirts are tc 10 drapcd. The most
fashionable dressmakers' establishments
have already brought out some of the
new skirts. They are drapcd in soft.
wavy folds from the belt down, over
every part, and are thus very easily
made. The body OF the skirt is cut in
the usual way. The second skirt is
twice md half as wide az the under
one, and very long. 1t is gathered o.
plated TO the belt, and fastened on the
lower part, where there is hounco or
pulling OF velvet or silk, in a color con.
lrasth < with the other part of the dress,
The full, loose piece Is then drapcd in
lengthwise plaits TO the center of the
skirt and takoa back on either side in
graceful folds. All this fullness .ermi-
mates near the hips, where the goods is
arranged in horizontal paits. There
are many other ways of placing these
pialts. Among others, one can have the
front of the skirt from the waist down
trimmed with Nat plaits which start
from either side to meet in the middle,
and are fastened half way down the
up TO the hips, where It is opened ana
drapcd. Batisto and cambric dresses
have velvet trimmings. Pink batiste
suits have the skirts bordcrcd with deep
garnat-colorcd velvet hounces. One Of
these has skirt consisting of two loose
puIlings divided by a band of garnet
colorcd ribbon velvet. On the border
of the waist is similar velvet, tied in
the center of the point and fastened un-
der an old silver or strass ornament.
Over the shirred plastron in front of the
waist are pieces of ribbon velvet placed
on in V shape. Black and white checked
goods with gathered ilounces have on
each of these three rows of ribbon velvet
about one inch and a half deep. Black
and white checked goods is much used,
both for full dress and morning wear.
The checks are in all sizes. Handsome
plaid taffetas are again the style. This
fabric is more admirably adapted than
any other to the present fashions, as it
gives certain rOundness to the drap-
ings, pullings, and paniers with which
toilets are now covered. A dress suita-
BILE for dem-saison wear is of fine
checked graysh material. 1t has two
scarfs, draped in a pointed apron, and
trimmed with bands of cream-coored
nansooks, with English embroidery.
The skirt is of Russian green taffetas,
trimmed with three chicOre plaitings.
The waist is of gray goods, with a vest
and ornaments of dark green. This
same model may be made with skirt of
seal, garnet, or navy blue.
Long "Dorsay" redingotes will serve
for autumn wear. They have very long
skirts, open down the front and back,
and fitting tightly to the figure. The
trimmings consist of brandebourgs and
passementeries of black silk. The same
garment will also serve for winter use,
in which case it will be of cloth, trim
med with deep bands Of fur and n
"Brummel" collar. For autumn wear
the redingotos will also be of silk "matc.
lasse" goods in such colors as seal and
iron.gray. They have a stamp of genu-
inc elegance, and arc particularly de-
sirable, inasmuch rs they never will
become common. A very careful ar
rangemcnt of skirt and tournure is nee
cssary under this garment. Tournures
are rather wider than they have been,
and consequently larger Petticoats
have full trimmings of lace and llounces.
Skirt tournures are worn between the
petticoat and skirt, making the latter
sit out, while the former falls over the
feet. By making any other arrange
ment the effect would be very bad.
Bows are to be among the favorite
winter trimmings. There are n great
variety of rosettes now made. They
are generally of woolen goods when the
dresses are of woolcn and silken goods
mixed. The rOsettes may also be OF
silk to correspond with the bias bands
and trimming on the suit. A number
of costumes are of black-Srccn and Rus-
san-green India oachemirc or yelling.
Many of the velvet waists already al
luded to are now worn over light skirts.
Cloth also serves for this purpose. A
suitable style for an autumn suit con-
sists of n ''redingotc Brummcl" with q
cachcmrc or silk skirt. On the lower
part of the skirt is rather deep and
very full putting. which is placed over
a double plated balayeuse OF the same
goods. The apron is of draped cache
mire, arranged in four plaits, and taken
to form between the ends of the red
inpote double full putting. The red
ingote is of fine cloth, with the long ends
on either side bordercd with soutache
embroidery. The short basque is point
ed in front and has embroidery all the
way down. On the sides are small pock-
cts. The back forms four fluted plaits,
.iuing up, as it were, against the puff
iurs OF the skirt. The sleeves are very
tight.litting. A toilet for young lady
NAV consist of an "imperia" polonaisee
Ut jouisine in fine checks Of navy and
Oriental blue and gold. The polonalse
opens over large navy blue Louis XVI.
vest. The skirt has five lengthwise
plaits divided by fiat bands of navy blue
velvet. A deep hounce borders the SKIRT
alternating in plating and velvet bands.
The velvet sleeves have checked "mous-
1uetaire" cuffs. This toilet may also
be of black and white or gray woolen
Goods, with the sleeves, vest, and band!
81 woolen material. .-Ch'c1qo Times.
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