The Portland daily press., 1882-10-28
New York Fashions.
lHarper's Bazar.l
WINTER COSTUMES

The opening days of the past week have dis
closed many new features in winter costumes.
At some of the private dyessmak ing establish
ments the first opening of the season was lmi-
ted to cloth and cashmere costumes and ele-
CANT lingerie, as these now form such an nl-
portant part of the winters outfit; while at the
large furnishing houses were shown elaborate
toilettes for all occasions, beginning with jap
anese and Turkish neglig6s for morning, and
ending with trained dresses for dinner, we'd
dings, balls, and receptions. Costumes for the
street, for visiting, for church, and for many
| day entertainments are shown in the greatest
variety Of designs, with but one feature in com
mon, and that is the short skirt, which is sill
shor er than that of last season, and m ade not
only to escape the ground, but to show the
| foot above the insJep. Two extremes are
| shown in these dresses, one set having very
bouffant and short drapery, while those of the
heaviest materials, such as cloth and thick
matelasse silks aud velvets, have long STATELY
draperies with only one or two sweeping
curves, or else they are straight, with pleats
that are fatty pressed or held in place by large
cords as thick as ropes. The cloth costumes
most often of one fabric mainly, with re-
lief OF VI vet for collar cuffs and pockets, and
with much soutache embroidery. The cash
mere costumes may also be made in these Sc
we're Sly les, but these that are imported frem
| tie fashionable Partisan modistes have wide
| borders of embroidery that may be Of applied
| velV ct and ntedle-work # the same shade Init
| is more often OF Contrasting colors IN the
/ gay Turkish aud Iudla ueedework done n,
! long STITCHES like tue decorative work on India
shawls and on old tapestries, and the Turkish
1 ID, .krf.. Il =
much IL use Brighter col rs are used for the
| Cashmere parts OF these dresses than have been
| worn Tor years. These are imported in snrimp
| pax, hght eltctflc blue, cspuciGe, with
wheels. or media llons, or squares of embroid-
| cry a fourth OF yard deep on one seleedge for
| trimming The ov.r-dress worn with velvet or
| ut oman repped silk skirls Of lie me color
| Some practical and useful q s-stions for
| palmer fabrics are found IN the CANT impor-
| ted Co.'S umts that show Com bnpations OF tirr @
| aud even of tour materials despite he late
| tftdic ions iha Combinations were fast goiug
"ut 81 use. Indeed, ladies no possess only a
sm II til On reInnant of sumo fdyorile stuff can
| now evolve whuls C, stume from this fouuda-
| lion; lhus ard and hall OF velvet will
| form the front breadth, slender vest, cuffs and
Coll Of brocaded costume, .r an heir
| loum In the shape of single breadth of bro
| cade or OF tapestry NAV be divided Tor two pan
| els on the side, or the best parts of a repped
| silk of ten years ago may form pulled BE on
1
| velvet or plush dress, and so ON in great yarje-
/ ~. Four materials, all chosen with ref renee
| to a single tone, are shown in one # the most
refined toilettes sent out blythe French modistes
| dull dark green is the prevailing hue and
for contrast aud relief straw berry red is intro
| duced. The short Wat eau polonaise is OF
dark green cashmere, but its Byron coll .r and
cuffs of Il Ids IRE OF strawberry red velvet, and
the waist OF is pc onaise is drawn away from
| the bust to the waist in round curves like those
1 n q Jank rat tn, dfcoIo
/ or vest trout of dark green ottoman
| rtpped silk that has strawberry red
leaves outlined upon it. The front breadth
Of the skirt Is plain green ottoman silk 10 Cross
| wise puffs that are htld in place by bars and
| bows of the strawberry velvet that begin under
-ide breadthS of brocAded ottoman reps with
strawberry leaves like that of the vest font
| rhe back of the skirt is plain green ottoman
| silk nearly cove ed by the cashmere drapery of
he poloneis which has full side papiers and
Vatican pleat. Another dress in the new
French gray-blue shades has three materials.
IS follows: single breadth OF velvet forms the
front, the wide side breadths are of matelasse
SILK OF the same shade, and the sleeves and vest
match these breadths, while the corsage
| drspery, and b OK brea6ths are Of ottoman
reDped silk; the collars aud cuffs are velvet.
Another suggestive French style is that of
| using the fashions prevailing here for the
Simplest flannel dresses foi making up rich
lttoman silks aud vevets; for Instance there
are skirts of old green or of electric blue otto
man repped silk formed iuto sixteen length VI Use
box pl-ats from the hips down, aud these
leafs are finished at the foot by three
tucks each an inch wide, and a border of bias
velvet an eighth OF yard wide. The full
bunched-up over-skirt has Trianon revers wide
ly faced with velvet, and is tucked or pleafed
to the belt, and the back has ends banging low
on The skirt beneath The ottoman basque ia
pointed in front, and has two pointed belts or
velvet bands coming from the sides forward.
fasfened by old silver clasps, and the buttons
4re also old silver. Around the neck is
Deated and tucked frill of silk and velvet, with
he same for cuffs. A long cloak with square
sleeves and pleatsd back accompanies these
suits. Ottoman repped silk bordered with
velvet is used for the outside, with warm plush
, il side. TIE redingote costumes of the richest
,'uffs many of them simple in design as
he pleated suit justdescribed, and there are
nany other evidences of a reaction az ainst he
laborate and fusSily tr mined costumes that
nave too fen been brought here from 2 rig