Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-04-29

edged with fringe. The chene SILK overdress
disclose. the mont. e lfsed At the sidss, where
Another very elegant dress 10 Of embroidered
silk null, with inserted leaves Of real lace over
heliotrops satin, with overdress Of lowered
silk In pansy pattern upon Q tinted ground.
fourth is combination OF stone color and old
blue, with open embroidery. and 2 complete
dress Of open embroidery tied with ribbons
over the plated front Of pale peacock blue satin.
One OF the most delicate dresses IL Of shrimp
pink satin and China crepe with Grecisn
bodice and sleeves Of crepe caught together
clasps, probably celluloid. The efFect, howryer,
is eli the same. Such elaboration q this puts
Spanish lace over satin entirely In the shade
and. indeed, Spanish lace, never very refined In
appearance, begins to look common beside the
exquisite open and lace-like embrOideries, un-
less 1t Is Of very superior quality.
NEWPORT TOILETS.
The highest evidence Of refinement to be
found In the preparations Cor the summer cam
paign consists in the outfits prepared for some
Of the Newport bellies. There IL not 80 much
display In these, but there Ia wonderful delicacy
Of color and fabric. Ivory white Is pre-eminent,
because it is only found In the softest, daintiest
Of materials-China crepe, nuns yelling, India
null, silk null, genuine satin and the like. In
less expensive materials, 1t IL only found In
linens linen cheese cloth, and In the finest quail
tiles OF Saline.
These ivory toilets are only possible to those
who live In an atmosphere of refinement. Used
carelessly and under ordinary circumstances
by people Of somewhat coarse habits (speaking
by comparison), they would become unweara-
bic In so short q time as to make the cost amost
important question But a woman of gentle
manners and habits can wear such dress or
costume upon occasions throughout q season
without showing actual soil. But, to do the
Newport bellies justice, they are not extrava-
CANT At least, they do not wear silks and
satins, velvets and laces all the time. In the
outfit alluded to are dresses Of striped ging-
ham, trimmed with needle-work embroidery;
two short, perfectly simple straight dresses Of
linen lawn. trimmed with linen lace and accom-
panied by small straight fchus. There are also
fannel dresses, one In old blue aud another In
pale lichen green-a stone color with green
moss in it. The most expensive dresses Are of
embroidered nuns yelling over soft white silk,
and one Of black Spanish lace over ruby satin,
trimmed with fine cut jet fringe and jetted lace
the latter flling In the square neck, forming
sleeves and panels at the sides Of the skirt
There were also several pongees, one Of which
was embroidered exQuiBitely in the self color;
the others were also embroidered. but not 80
elegantly-0ne in shaded browns and greens,
the other in olives and old blue The parasols
matched the dresses and were decorated. but
not all of Them. with flowers. The bouquets
were not large, and the bouquet Of prfmrOses
violets or buttercups locked fresh and natural
as If Just plucked. Several Of the cream white
parasols and one Of ruby satin covered with
fe had Dresden china handles and lirilgs Of
old gold, shrimp pink q very delicate shade,
with . suggestion Of yellow in it) or China blue
Among the special novelties for seaside wear
parasol complete. The dresses are trimmed
with killed founces (nsrrow) across the front,
alternating with pleated rufnes OF lace, which
are placed partly under those Of the cheese
cloth. The heading Is . band Of what looks like
embroidery, but is in reality an application Of
cretonne. outlined with buttonhole stitch This
Is repeated three times across the front and also
upon the basque, hat and parasOl The fine lace
pleatings also re-appear upon every part Of the
Dress The costumes are imported complete.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There Is q decided tendency toward the revi-
val Of the black and white that had 30 great q
vogue some years ago. Many dresses OF black
nuns yelling are embroidered with white made
over black twilled foulard and trimmed with black
lace and black MORE ribbons. apsculiarity OF
the season that satin Is yelled and the ribbons,
both in the very wide kinds used for sashes and
the narrower ones for loops and bows. are Ill Of
MORE.
Hats and bonnets of black flexible chip
danes. and trimmed upon the outside with
black MORE ribbon and white needle point lace.
The fashion Is also revived Of trimming
bodices, and particularly softly draping black
polonaises. with double ruflies and jabots Of
black and white lace. Some elegant models In
black China crepe have been trimmed In this
way, with white needle point "a nne imitation)
and black Spanish point lace, the white forming
the lining to the black.
Color Is now one OF the best tests of the de-
gree OF refinement and cultivation Of dress, other
things being equal The art colors are such rs
peacock and old China blues, lichen green, wood
color, terra Gotta, bronze and olive shades. Flan-
mel suits, in plain brown and navy blue can be
purchased for almost halt the price that the
same materials cost In the finer and more g.
thetic shades. There Is a great demand for stone
fawn and wood shades this season, and lovely
costumes are made in these cOlOrs of Indiane
cloth. an extremely fine and soft kind Of i'm
ported camels hair and chuddah cloth. These
are made up In conjunction with satin and Tus-
sore silks which are not always of the same
shade as the wool. but may be ruby or a dull
shade Of old China blue. The trimming Is usu-
ally rich open embroidery upon the wool, and
this is used in conjunction with knife pleatings
OF the silk or satin.
SPECIAL NOVELTIES OR REVEALS m SUMNER
FABRICS.
Chene silks have taken the place Of what has
been known las summer silks-that Is the
small checked and striped Silks there are
checked washing silks still, but they have not
the cachet of the newest thing. India pongee
has experienced an enormous revival, due per
haps, to the trouble Of procuring other art ma
terials. Pongees we have always-it is not ex-
travagantly light and Il h one Of the coolest.
cleanest and daintieet OF summer fabrics
China crepe Is revived. but only for q few, for
It ts too costly for wear by the MANY. few
pieces Of terra Gotta red have been eagerly
bought up to be made into country house and
fete dresses, trimmed with white, and worn with
white Lace hat and parasol. The Tussore silks
are fine and soft, very cool, and with their India
tints and clinging quality make esthetic dresses.
In washing materials the new satinettes have
easily taken the first rank. The gowns arc wen
covered with lovely and most original designs,
ana though some OF these latter are bizarre,
there are enough Of those that are both pretty
and original to redeem them. The new rose de-
signs has dark grounds-olive o. chocolate-and
some dull China blue. Upon these are shaded
roses-1areschal Nell, dark red and others-wfth
brown stems and fading foliage. There are also
Kate Greenaway patterns. the quaint designs Of
little folks, which are 20 well kn0wn-furuish-
Ing the borderings to small leafy patterns. The
narrow chene striped ginghama, with linen an
mo- hA <f1n<~