The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1882-05-13
Spring Dresses.


Silk and wool costumes with EN-
broidery and velvet garniture are tn
staple suits displayed at the openings a
the large furnishing houses. The new
blue shade which is best known as por
ceIain blue is the color that probabl,
finds most favor, as it is produced il
all the stylish fabrics. 1t is shown
among the imported dresses in gros grail
for the box plated puffs of skirt witt
dove gray cashmere for the Trianol
polonaise, and gray open-worked EN-
broidery for the trimming. 1t is alsc
shown in cloth dresses of every quality
beginning with those made in Paris, anC
deliberately ornamented with blacl
.brandebourgs and braid on the skirt a!
well as on the basque, to the simpler
dresses of nice camel's hair or of the
cloth finished flannels that are neatly
made and sold for S25 The suits al
medium prices are the-most satisfactory
of all ready made dresses, because they
are of simple styles, with most of the
outlay for the pure wool material. The
round skirt is partly laid in deep plaits,
aud is plain like a kilt in front with a
row of buttons and mock button holes
down one side, and a draped apron
.overskirt permanently attached at the
belt. The basque has single-breasted
or else diagonal front, with Byron col
lar, square cuffs and box plated backs,
Blacks. brown, deep green and cadet
gray hannels and cashmere suits are
similarly made.
More expensive than these are the cash
mere and French buntings with self
embroidery, or else wrought in white or
in y contrasting color. Only enough
embroidery is used about the neck,
sleeves and across the tablier or paniers
TO give character to these dresses, and
the edges of the basque, as also of the
gathered flounces of the wool goods,
are cut in the narrow scallops or leaf
points that are so often seen on Worth S
handsomest dresses. These points may
be lined with gay color to brighten
dark dresses, as one Of the prettiest black
wool dresses shown had geranium red
Surah facings, and another of leaf brown
had ecru Surah. ..r ... ..a.s.
1t is the caprice of merchants this
season to call all soft wool stuffS nuns
yelling; but that is very expensive fab
ric-known by its inch-wide selvedges
and ladies who have little money to
spend will content themselves with their
all-wool bunting that are now sold with
embroidered edges for twenty-five to
twenty-five dollars. There are also domes-
tic thin woolens for fifteen to seventeen
dollars, sold in dress patterns of nine
yards of double width, with nine yards
of embroidery. The rival trimmings for
this low-priced embroidery on plain
dresses are many rows of soutache or of
the wider tubular braids, and the lined
scallops described above.
White wool dresses are imported with
open embroidery of white silk, and are
trimmed with bronze green, blue, or
copper red velvet about the neck aud
waist. The skirt is laid in deep plaits
that are pressed-not sewed-and the
wide embroidered selyedge trims these
plaits. Small balls of white wool fall
from other plaitings; the basque opens
over vest fastened by gilt buttons, and
there are straps of the velvet instead of
a cravat bow, with wider sash and bow
of velvet. Chuddah cloth and twilled
woods are used for seaside dresses of this
kind.
The revival of colored faile as well as
black is an accomplished fact, as this
finely repped silk is even more used than
satin Surah in the combination dresses
brought over from Paris. There are,
however, few dresses made entirely of
faille for this fabric does not drape soft
ly, and cashmere of the same shade with
an embroidered selvedge is preferred for
the drapery, while the basque and lower
skirt are of faille. A pretty design for
such a combination has Greek drapery
of the cashmere; the faille skirt is with
out fiounces in front, but is laid in fan
cluster of lengthwise plaits on the left
side, where it is disclosed by the draped
cashmere. Two plated flounces cross
the back. and the tunic falls behind in
great double box plaits. The faille
basque is laced in front, pointed behind,
and has two side-plaited frills sewed to
this point. each containing two breadths
of silk, and one of these is three-eighths
of Il yard. while that resting upon it is
only half as deep. For such dress,
seal-brown faille and cashmere are used,
and the whole may be enlivened by a
littlepale blue satin or MORE introduced
in the middle of the Greek plaits on the
lower skirt. lining the plaitings at back
of basque. and as a facing for the open
embroidery that trims the surplice neck
and square cuffs. Black faille and
cashmere is very simple and elegant
made in this way. and frightened by
geranium red MORE or satin.-Harper's
BG,ar.