Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-10-04
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
Novelties i'm pesign-The New Rediu.
Fofe-"zh DraDery-Theater Toll.
etIes-Science in Clothes
From Our Own Correspondent.

From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. October g.
That science has anything to do with clothes
seems not as yet To have entered the minds of
many people and therefore dress has no true
standard no scientific opponents. Its deyotees
are as ignorant of the laws which should govern
1t as those who despise it. and both in their ig-
noranee are equally mischievous to its best in
terests; while in the meantime it becomes more
and more OF a furthermore and more of
hndrance to free active life.
Perhaps this Is inevitable Civilization is a
wonderful mason. 1t builds up invisible walls
stronger than those Ofthe old Romans and It's re-
fnements are only barriers to our humanity,
Dress must follow or keep its place in the eter-
Eal march. and all We can do. as individuals IS
70 endeavor TO apply to 1t. at least In our case
the same laws OF reason and common sense that
we naturally bring to bear on other subjects 1t is
possible that sometime scientifically educated
men and women willsee the Importance of exam
1uing the subject with the seriousness that its in
fuence upon the health morals and happiness
OF mankind at large demand; that it will not be
considered as silly or frivolous simply because
1t has been left mainly to the control OF the I'M
thinking to its detrnlent but that such guidance
VIII be afforded as will form basis for Judgment
and give authority for opinion. and above all,
'lmpaTt TO the whole question. in its practical
% well as its theoretical aspects such intelligent
recognition as will rescue it from the hands into
which 1t mas largely fallen and induce our intelli-
gent young women to enter the field and be-
come true dressmakers. trained in the science and
art, as well as the mechanics of clothes
As Vet We have no scientific dressmakers. Our
dressmakin2 is done by accident and in the
merest process of imitation, after the old copy
book style. DresSmakerS rarely know the true
names, and still mere rarely the qualities of
even the materials they use. As for their in
huence upon the health or life of the individual
their suitability for different purposes. their
varying powers of resistance to atmospheric and
other conditions. 1t does not enter their heads
that they have anything to do with these things,
or that there is any reason why they should know
them. Naturally the average weaTer knows
even less of such matters than the average
dressmaker, and both fall helplessy back on the
uncertain. Irrational. constantly changing die
tum of some self-constituted authority whose
vision Is narrowed both by interest and ignOr-
ance; and who simply wishes to keep up the de-
mand for Some special item or branch of manu-
facture.
WHAT ART HAS ALREADY DONE.
The present generation ewes debt of graft
tude already to those artists and art critics and
writer's who have discussed dress from the art
standpoint, and created at least the beginning
Of a new school in which dress is considered
and even worn from the art standpoint. Though
the influence Is not yet popularity perceptible-
at least in any marked or generally acknowl-
edged way-it has been strongly felt and has
been mainly truthful and refining in its charac-
ter. Its value, however, is in the fact that 1t
has lifted dress out Of the commonplace into
the artistic; that is, has surrounded it with
new atmosphere and unconsciOusly set many to
looking at 1t from new point Of view. This Is
. great step in advance and we can easily afford
20 forgive the yagaries that accompany any
movement for the sake of the beauty the va
Iiety, the healthy activity which are the result
ba m fSnlf no VI cfo
IN the scientific direction. 1t is possible. too
that the average American woman Is the coming
DaEiOur the apostle of the new religion of sensi-
'ble healthful, beautiful dress, well thought out
vel made and specially adapted to its func-
tions.
Should this be the case we shall learn to
know and appreciate fabrics and put them to
their proper uses we shall in time be able to
distinguish cOlOrs and even shades, and know
now to adapt them to ages, conditions and per-
cons. We shall In short make our fashions in
0eead of allowing them to make u.s. 1t is to the
influence of art that we owe the modern develop
3ent OF FORM and to this and scientific discovery
IN Its application to decorative objects. the
movement and variety in color 1t is to art also
that We are indebted for the revival of Ornamen-
1ation upon the material, while mechanical
genius has aided it by limitations, which being
much nearer the reach of the majority w no have
hitherto been excluded bv its cost from ap-
prOpriating 1t. 1t Is still, however an omen
question how far this higher influence shall ex-
tend. and whether we shall permit 1t to do for
rs the good 1t is capable of doing IL 1t were
treated with the thought and attention 1t de-
serves.
In dress we have not as yet made a single
broad step beyond the boundaries of the con-
yentional and the common place We allow the
1ncursions Of original designs and particularly
the revival OF old ideas, to diversity the IN on
otony or wood and brOwnstOne and give an air
OF individuality to the interior of modern
houses; but the dress Of the occupants Is more
~ nDrIan
the world to choose from, We accept the least
desirable because We are acquainted with it,
and because it relieves us from burdens and re-
sponslbillty, such as endeavoring to carry and
introduce the new always entails
THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS
In the meantime the manufacture. of fabrics
has gone far ahead OF our knowledge Of how to
put them to good use. The spectacle of their
dissertation, their almost humiliation by crude
and cruel methods of cutting, dragging, gath
ering and torturing is one to make an artisan
who has found pleasure in seeing beautiful
piece or Cloth grow under his ewes Weep We
have now quantities of rich material for which
natures deepest recesses. the gathered treasu-
rfes OF museums and all the repositories OF art
have been searched for their production vet
for any sympathetic impression they make on
their soulless cutters and wearers they might be
kitchen toweling
1t would be well for those who are enoaoed
In looking back for historical hints in regard to
costume to carefully consider the lovely artistic
designs and exquisite old colors employed i'm the
early part of this century. No other STYLE on
record will compare with it for delicacy. dainti-
ness and artistic effect. They were restricted
TO be sure. no material was wasted, but there
was an absolute refinement about Them a grace
ana gentleness that appeal at once to the cuti-
waited perception, and a simplicity OF outline
most favorable to the display of the lines of
beauty. both in form and fabric.
What Is to be done in these days of punching
and ''drapery," with the magnificent brocades
and tapestried materials. it is hard to saw.
there Is an effort 10 reverse the order of the
china figures Of the seventeenth century and
use the figured stuffs for the untrimmed short
skirt; the plain for the draped overdress which
Is often made with the Vatican plat I'm the
back. But this involves for dinner or evening
wear Except for dancing) sort of court train
or one distinct from the skirt and this Ia NOT
very easy and therefore can never be popular
IL used to be said that fashion ceased tn be
fashion when 1t was seen upon the street-tbaf
II to say, when it had reached the majority
Butths is not at all so true as formerly. Science
and machinery have cheapened Injuries SO that
they are within the reach of a larger number