The Portland daily press., 1882-06-09
[Harpers' Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Null muslin, French nainsook and other
sheer lawns that have no starch and are Of
dull ivory white, yet are clearer than cream
COLOR are the fabrics used in imported dresses.
Embroidery is invariably employed for the
trimming, and to this is sometimes added some
inexpensive lace, or perhaps little real Mech
lin, or Valenciennes in the new designs that
have small figures with .feathery edges, and
show great deal of the foundation mesh
work. The embroidery is most effectively
used as scant founces for the skirt trimming
it sometimes in many rows up the front, with
three rows extending all around it, and ample
back drapery to cover the plain part OF the
back; while other dresses have three or four
embroidered fiounces, SO wide that they cover
all the skirt but short space for hip drapery
The open designs for such work have .been
most in favor, but there are also many hounces
of the thicker swork sthat can scarcely be de-
tected from needle-work. For simple dresses
this work is done in patterns OF dots scattered
about, or else in scalloped rows near the edge,
and is very effective. For more elaborate
dresses there are larger flower, leaf and vine
involved geometrical designs. The over-dress
of white muslin is made without lining, but ~
worn over high corset cover, the sleeves be-
ing the only transparent part OF the corsage.
The neck is cut in a low point in front or II may
be finished high at the throat with standing
rufie of embroidery, and inside this two stand
ing frills of lace. A pretty finish for pointed
throat is given also by fichu of the null that
is SHRED down its only seam-that IN the
middle behind; its bias ends drawn closely
down on the shoulders are Tapped, or knotted,
or held by ribbon bow on the bust Just above
the waist line in front. This fchu may also
be added to high corsage to give the erect Oh
full bust and sloping shoulders; the high
corsage has its standing frills OF embroidery
and lace, and the embroidery may also pc IN
lengthwise rows to form vest, and extend
thence along the edge of the paniers that curve
down on each hip from the middle OF the front.
Another trimming that is quite Inexpensive ls
puff of the sheer null around the neck and
wrists with ribbon run in It, There may DC
frills of embroidery or lace below the pull but
for simple dress pretty frill may be added
of the null doubled and bias, and this should
be pulled apart in pouf-like roundnsss, instead
of being pressed fiat. Very narrow ribbon,
only half an inch wide, may be knotted or
looped with many ends in the front or on the
LETT side of the neck. The seams in the waist
and sleeves OF these thin lawns should not be
left 'raw;" that is, with rough edges. They
are neatest when made with the EHgllah bag
seam that first sews the edges together, max
ing the seam on the outside of tie dress. The
garment is then turned and sewcd on the
wrong side, covering the seam just made as Il
with bag-hence the name. Inc draped
polonaise is much used for white null over
dresses. The bodice is first fitted like a basque
and trimmed along its lower edges with the
embroidery in two rows, one turned up and
the other down, or with putt over ribbon,
and the drapery is added in lengthwise tucks
on the hips and in front.
Tucked gathered rufflss are used on null
dresses for ladies wearing mourning, and the
STYLES Of making are similar to those just de.
scribed. For very simple dresses, such as
Young girls should wear at school Commence
ments parties, etc. = prigged or dotted muslin
is used. The skirt overed BY three or four
basoue is tucked .. ,leated, and confined by
belt of ribbon that forms sash bow behind.
For morning dresses white linen lawn with
out figures is used, and is made beautiful py
rufles of Irish point or gulpure smoroldery.
These dresses have fitted basque with deep
apron overskirt, and there are three embroI-
dered fiounces on the lower skirt; similar
ruff1e edges the overskirt and basque, and
there is vest of the embroidery.
AT afternoon weddings in May or June white
is almost the only wear for young ladies, but
these toilettes are of satin Surah made elabo-
rate with embroidery, or else white emma
Grape with lace, or perhaps silk muslin or nuns
yelling, with finely wrought figures all over
the fabric, and many yards OF Oriental lace for
garniture. The sash, the gloves, and bonnet,
are also white, and the only touch of color is
given by the large cluster of flowers on tpe cor
sage, or of feathers in the bonnet. The basque
with bouffantly trimmed skirt is preferred to
polonases for such dresses. The throat is ex-
posed, and there is quite display OF trimming
on the front of the corsage and about the neck.
A jewelled brooch fastens the dress on the
bust, and another may be stuck in the TRIM
ming on the side of the neck. The bonnet may
be a tiny capote of shirred thin white Grape or
its crown may be of flowers, with shirred
crane or lace brim, and there are short dark
velvet strings to tie under the chin. Ii large
hat is worm it is of the finest white split straw,
or Of Manila, with nodding white plumes on
the outside, and usually some dark velvet IN
side the brim If the head is bare the couture
is of the simplest low style, with small Greek
knot or twist that is broad and low, while the
front hair is cut short and is in small curved
locks all above the forehead if the face is oval;
but if the forehead is low and broad, the locks
are only on the temples, while the hair between
is drawn back AID forms soft Pompadour
roll There is no ornament but a 1eWelled
comb worn-no5 even flower is used by young
ladies. Older ladies wear two ostrich tips, or
else pompon and aigrette OF marabout and
heron feathers on the left side OF the head. All
conspicuous jewelry, especially earrings and
necklaces, is avoided by young. ladies'; brace
lets of the slenderest shape and valuable rings
are the more favored pieces.
The tWilled SurahS with or without satin
finish are in great favor for street suits, and
these take the place of the summer taffeta
silks SO long used, and rival the popular fou-
lards Dark Surahs are used for the street,
such as navy blue, gray-blue, very dark garnet,
and cypress green. These are trimmed with
embroidery on the material, or with the ecru
null embroidery, or else with black lace frIlls,
either of French imitation thread lace or tae
silk Spanish lace. Such dresses must be made
up on foundation skirt of silk, alpaca, silesia,
or other fabric less fimsy than Surah, in order
to make the skirt preserve It's shape; and this
is not to be objected to as sham skirt, as it
often costs as much or more than the thin fab
ric of the outside which it is meant to support;
the best French dresses have this foundation
skirt. and the best modstes here use it, taking
care, however, to so arrange the drapery that
the foundation can not possibly be disclosed
when worn.
The short round polka basque is much used
for summer Surah dresses. This reaches two
inches below the waist line, is nearly straight
around, is whaleboned to the lowest end OF
each seam las all basques should be), and Is
finished on its edge with one or two full bias
puffs, or else two thick box-pleatings OF satin,
and perhaps on this may fall frill Of Spanish
lace that is very scant the sides, and full like
a fan in the middle of the front and back.
A stylish ruche, that is not too full and fussy
for trimming the foot of silk skirt has first, at
the lower edge gathered fril, either straight
or bias, two inches and half wide when fin
ished. Then above this, with its lower edge
falling upon it, is the ruche six inches deep
when finished, either straight or bias, and gath
cred by three parallel rows in the middle. 1t
is well to line this ruche with crnoline or stiff
net, and to tack the top edges to the skirt to