The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1882-08-15
TETUAN.
BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER.

The charms Of TetuRn, which is a
city OF about twenty-five thousand
inhabitants, exist somewhat Ia the
imagination. Only little over half
the people are Moofs; thers are resi-
dent here several hundred Spaniar6s,
and some eight thousand Jews. But
Tetuan is the city of Barbary most
romanticcslly connected with Spain.
In every city of Andslusia is street
called Tetuan. Tetuan was in fact
founded by the Moors when they
we're finally expelled from Granada
by the religious zeal of Ferdinand
and Isat eliza loss of skilfuli artifc-
ers and chivalrous poetical people
from which Granada has never
recovered. The only things in Gran
ada worthy of the travellers interest
are the "reminiscences of the Meors.
1t is always said that the expelled
MO0Es, who carried away with them
such wealth as they could save from the
rspaclous Spaniards, and endeavored
10 reproduce their luxurious houses
10 Tetusn, expected some day to
return to Granada and the Alham bra.
We are told that their descendants
to-day cherish the same hope, and
that they preserve the title-deeds to
their Spanish possessions, and the keys
to their houses III Granada. | think
the latter part of the statement
10 spot ryphai. Il is hardly probable
that keys would be preserved hun
dreds OF years, in the bOpe of using
them, to houses that have not existed
for centuries; and it il doubtful If the
Intelligent Moors of Morocco have to-
day any higher ambition than getting
what they can out Of government,
escaping taxation, aud living at ease.
When one sees the beggsls and the
commonplace and shabby condition
OF Spanish Granada, and regrets the
expulsion OF the MooIs, be may per
haps give a new turn to reflection by
visiting Tetuan. What have the
Moore done since they left Grenada?
Have they not refrigerated in every
art and refinement OF life. Had the
race not eliminated in the splendor
OF the AlhambrR? Had not the
Moorish civilization run its natural
career, and come near to its clOsa at
the time of the conquest? What
have the Moors ever done since, any
where, that has been OF the lea.
service to the world? Moors and
5psniards alike went into a decline
alter the brilliant epoch of the con-
quest and of discovery; and il
spain Iecovers, it will be owing WhCl ,
to the actual contact with modern
civilization, which has been wanting
to the Moors. Ii, when the Moors de-
parted, the stately and luxurious AL
hambrs could have been locked up,
saved from the destruction and the
neglect Of the 6paniards, and pre-.
served to modern curiosity and
intelligence, the traveller might be
content. and regret neither the ex.
pulsion of the Moslems nor ZEE
occupation OF the Ohristians.
The street. where ne lodged was, 81
have said, clean; bat It g very
narrow, and the line of high white.
Washed houses Oh ether side. present.
ing surface of solid wall broken
only by small grated wind ows,
was entirely Moorish in lite charaoGe,
Few other portions OF the compact
city were so clean. It was market
day, the day We spent in retuan,
AID the best occasion for seeing the
country people and the life Of the
place. The open squares and streets
OF ehopt sSaImsd 9th buyers and sci.
lers and calm walters on Providence.
The crowd had certain picturesque
Drss, but 1t wanted the color OF macy
Oriental populations, for the uniform
dress is white, or dirty white and aiEty
brown, and OF very coarse material.
The exceptions are the JeWs, who
wear az In TRngier, black skull-cap:
AMI the few Moorish gentlemen and
rich shop'keepsrs. whose voluminous
turbsns and amply flowing robes o.
sposless silk and linen present the
true Oriental type Of luxurious mag.
nifcence.
The gulde.books are always be-
seeching the traveller to al mire tbs
Jewesses Of Tangier and Tesuan. Al
these women 60 unveiled, il is easy
tn 10 n Than r,ae ooIor - Thor