Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-03-18
COL. KNOX ON SIBERIAN TRAVEL.



about to leave Irkutsk for st. Petersburg on
their way to the United States. and two officers
of our navy have just been ordered to Siberia to
assist In the search for Capt. De Long and the
missing men. It has therefore been suggested
to me that brief description of the Siberian
post road over which these parties will travel
would be specially interesting at this time.
In November, 1866. left Irkutsk for ST. Pc
tersburg. The terminus Of the railway was then
at Mini NOvgOrOd. 400 miles from the former
city. Winter is the best time for travel i'm Sibe-
ria, as the roads are smoother than at other sea-
sons OF the year, and one is not annoyed by dust
and mosquitoes II you travel by the post We
hicles belonging to the station masters you must
change at every station, and a transfer of your
self and baggage four OF five times day, with
the thermometer below zero, is the reverse of
pleasant Consequently, most persons prefer
it for what it will bring at the end of the route
became the owner of a "kibitka" or half-Open
sleigh, which somewhat resembles New Eng
land chaise, greatly elongated. There was
abundant room for two of US, and we could lie
at full length on our furs and baggage, or sit
half upright, with pillows enough to wedge US
closely into our places. At night or in storm
We could lower q hood at the ton and fasten it
to thick apron from below. so that we were
fairly protected from severe weather. Baggage
Is in fiat valises of soft leather and spread over
are filed with straw, layer of furs or sheep
skins covers the whole, and on this you sit or
lie at your pleasure 1t is judicious to lash it
with ropes to prevent its tumblng out on top of
you in case of an upset.
The post stations are from 10 to 20 miles
apart and from 1rkutsk to Mini NOvgorod /
changed herses and drivers 200 times. and was
drawn by not far from COO horses altogether.
On arriving at station you present your pade-
rOjnis, or road pas, to the station master, and
No nd hnrc fuo lob,
you will get them at once, but if there is no
reason why he should expedite you, he may
keep you waiting several hours, or until you
bride him into supplying your wants. The road
pass is only Obtainable from the authorities, and
as horses cannot be supplied without it, there is
no chance of an irregular person travelling
about the country. The pass states your name
and residence, the number Of horses you are en-
titled to demand and pay for and also states
very explicitly your destination. The ordinary
paid for at the rate of a kopeck and a half per
verst~abOut cent and a-half per mile. The
driver expects a small fee at the end of his
course, so that the expense of being
drawn over Siberian road is about five cents
mile for two persons. If the roads are good
you are carried along at fine speed, especially if
you hint that liberal fee will be forthcoming.
1t was not unusual to make ten or twelve
miles an hour and not infrequently thirteen
miles would be covered in that time. The per-
Torrance Of Russian driver is sometimes
rather trying to a nervous person; he descends
hills at break-neck pace and is utterly regard
less of shaking you up. Late in winter the roads
are full OF hOlOws or dog wallOws," especially
on the hill-sides, and when a team is driven
over them at gallOp the sleigh jumps in a
manner great deal more than exhiliarating.
AS long as the vehicle preserves it's integrity
the driver pays it no attention. This sort Of
thing brings on what the Russians call the road
fever; the pulse is high and every bound of the
sleigh forces the blood through the veins at
fearful pressure. Your head seems ready to
burst and the feeling at each jar of the vehicle
is very much as though somebody was trying to
drive railway spike into your skull The
fever generally subsidies in two or three days,
but sometimes it is severe that the traveller be-
rest at each stage.
followed the Russian plan in preparing for
the journey. had fur socks over my ordinary
ones, fur stockings outside the socks and fur
boots enclosing all. Over my ordinary clothing
wore sheepskin coat with the wool inside
and fastening tight around the neck. Outside
OF this was deerskin coat that touched the
ground when / stood erect and was large enough
inside for man and boy; its collar was foot
wide, and the sleeves, six inches longer than the
arms inside, were very inconvenent when 1
tried to pick up anything. Fur clothing in such
amount is personal incumbrance, but without
it the traveller would suffer from the severe cold
The lowest temperature 1 experienced on the
road was 40 below Zero A bottle of champagne
became perfectly solid the first day of the sleigh
ride, and discovered tendency to crystalliza-
ton in bottle Of poor brandy that belonged to
my companion.
Though the frost cannot penetrate q travel
er's furs, 1t constantly assals his face and con-
gealS the moisture of his breath; beard and flrs
frequently freeze together and render sudden
movements inconvenient. AmOustache becomes
double ended icicle in short time and a lady
will tell you that her veil is soon converted into
good counterfeit uf wire screen. 1t was a
season Of fasting when made my Journey and
the stations could not be relied on for any pro-
visions except bread and eggs, unless we in
clude hot water for making tea. Russians drink
vast quantities of tea while travelling, and many
who are addicted to stimulating drinks while at
home abstain from them altogether ON the road
and drink nothing but tea. We carried most of
our provisions in frozen state and thawed
them at the stations as we wanted them. Scum
was in cakes like small bricks and roast beef
resembled red granite. We had bag of pima
MIA Russian preparation Of little meat-balls
covered with an envelope Of dough-and this
bag was our great reliance. The contents were
like walnuts from the effects of the frost; dou-
BILE handful dropped in a gallon of water and
boiled for five minutes made a substantial soup
or stew. and we found this article of sustenance
more convenient than any other.
Along the road there was a little change of
scenery. The country is undulating. but not
broken: and in some places there are plains that
resemble our western prairies. The landscape
or rather the snowscape. is monotOnOus and
wearisOme, except where it is crossed BY rivers
and the few ranges of hills along the route
The villages containing the stations were from
10 to 20 miles apart, and generally built in q
single street. Outside Of nearly every village
was blOck-hOuse where exiles are lodged on
their way to the places of their Punishment; the
movements Of these involuntary emigrants are
so timed that only given number are lodged
In any one house at the same time, not so
much in consideration Of the comfort of the
exiles as through fear Of attempts at re-
volt and escape While the horses were changed
at the stations we had the option of entering
the house or staying outside; we generally did
the latter, except at meal times. as the change
from several degrees below to 60 or 70 above lis
not altogether agreeable. The rooms of Russian
houses are warmed by brick stoves, and among
the peasants the top of the stove is the favorite
sleeping place. At night we used to stir the
drivers out from where they were being slowly
baked; their toilets were quickly performed, as
1t only Included dOnning sheep-skin coat, and
buckling belt around the waist, and then they
were ready for q drive of two or three hours
through an Arctic temperature.
The most perilous part of the journey ia across
the Barabinsky steppe in western Siberia.
plain thousand miles wide and often swept by
severe storms. The snow is whirled in binding
masses fho wind If hlOurin0 from, tho uov<I ?