Morning journal and courier., 1882-01-13
Price Four Cents.

are all the way up the back of the skirt the
 last one terminating on the position fasten- | ing down the scarf panier. The "eorseletp | is of blue satin, with red velvet bands across the breast. The short red puffed sleeves ! have blue inserted outings. The red velvet | collarette is very open in front, and lined l with point d'Alencon lace It turns over to | form revers on either side of the Yalois | point The dress is trimmed on the lower | part of the skirt, borders of the panier and I waist with fancy beaded passementerie i Beaded passementerie is so much used on rich suits that few evening toilets are seen without the addition of some of this trim ming Front pieces of skirts and waists are | of passementerie in openHork, to be worn over several dresses.
 be of purple velvet. The false skirt is of silk in the same color. Down the front of the skirt are lengthwise plaitings pointed on the ends. On the upper part of the skirt is plaited drapery, which falls in the back among the folds of the trimming. This apron drspery is fastened on either side un- der plaited velvet quille reaching down to the lower part of the skirt. On the border of the skirt in front is plaited founce. In the pack is 8 ruching "a la vieille." The very tight fitting waist has pointed b2sque. The neck is open in heart shape back and front and trimmed with purple passementerie. The short sleeves are of the same passemen-
 
 pansies. toilet for young lady is Of sat in, silk gauge and lace. The skirt is covered in front with 8 large satin point fastened down under double satin hollow plating, ex- tending all the way down the front On the lower part of the skirt are four lace hounces Falling from the sides of the waist is a gauge drapery, taken over the front of the apron and drawn together in the centre through a buckle of Rhine pebbles. In the back of the skirt is a wide piece of draped gauge, fastened underneath and falling over the lace hounces The satin waist is pointed back and front and trimmed around the low neck and short sleeves with narrow lace Over the left shoulder is spray of flowers. bunch of flowers is on the lower part of the skirt and on the left side
 There is quite variety of habits and waists for ladies to choose from this winter The ''habit Parabere'' may be of velvet or plush, either green or plum color. The plastron and point of the habit of shirred pink satin, drawn in at the waist and on the point. The upper part forms square front-piece On the borders of the waist are bands shirred at reg uIar intervals. The rounded collar is very high in the back and terminated in front un- der the square piece. Against the waist are revers of white blonde embroidered with gold thread. This same blonde Is on the basque and collar. The long basque starts from the sides, is open in the back, and trimmed with lace, turning back. OR the side is pocket. The sleeves reach below the elbow and have two lace rufies turning downward and one turning upward, divided by drapery. On the left side of the waist is spray of roses extending from the shoul- der in a slight bias to near the lower part of the waist. A waist for evening or theatre wear may be of plush velvet or 'drsp de soie." The front forms a long point and the back short one. Over the hips is a draped satin scarf matching the skirt, with 6 coin on the point where the scarf is drawn up This scarf forms the paniers, with bands of ribbon velvet extending lengthvise at regular intervals From these bands de- pend coins matching the one on the point of the basque, and joined to each other by gold chains, with a tassel falling below each coin. The velvet unique forms three lengthvise plaits. down either side in front, and opens over plaited satin skirt The plastron in front of the waist is shirred and plaited, and the waist laced over Qeaving @ large piece open) by means of gilt cord. Above this laced part is a band of velvet covered with a putting of white silk gauge with gold threads inter mixed in vermiceli designs. The neck is cut square and surrounded by gauge and lace. This waist has also flowers on the left side, from the shoulder down Another style of waist is of Pompadour broche goods, form ing in front long point and in the back A shorter one; around the basque is 8 deep huted plating of moire antique ribbon. Down the front of the waist is a point forming a ''bavette'' of plain satin, shirred. with plait- ed satin draperies on either side fastened down about the center of the waist by fbfee- rows of shirrs. Under the point is draped ''mousseline de soie" and white lace guimpe. The Diana collar is of pink satin, lined with cream color and bordered with silk cord and gold lace. The tight-ftting broche sleeves have over the shoulders moire antique puff fng. The long gloves are taken over the sleeves.
 A velvet, plush or satin habit has the long basque cut very open in front from the waist down, showing Pompadour vest trimmed with beaded galloon cord. The sleeves terminate on the elbow, and have lace iabots. Down the front is double Brussels point lace iabot. Above the small straight collar is lace frill. Bunchss oflfowers are on the side of the waist, outside the sleeves, and end of the habit
 coiffure likely to be much favored this winter has been brought out by the Empress of Austria, who wears her hair falling loose in the back over her shoulder, slightly waved in front, and arranged in Grecian style by means of diamond ornaments or bands of pearls. It is rumored that many ladies in Vienna have had their hasr cut in imitation of this fashion.
 Petticoats for street wear are of surah sat in, and woolen or silk ''moire." They are very prettily trimmed. For evening use they are covered in the back with of the skirt and make it sit over the waist and hips On the lower border is one deep hounce, which surrounds the skirt. The hounces in the back are graduated breadths, becoming wider as they go down, and each falling over the other. Very often there is but one founce on the skirt, and a piece of muslin is fastened to the back by means of buttons and button holes with whalebones run through it, which is covered with muslin and lace houncss. This can be put on and taken of at pleasure. There are ''tournures'' for pointed waists in the exact shape of the point. They consist of spring placed lengthwise down the center, and of small springs forming bias against the long one The point of the waist sits very well on this tournure and retains its shape. Even little girls in Paris wear tournures; they are very small, it is true, but from the age of 10 or 12 years it is absolutely necessary that the heavy skirts worn by children should have some support, and that there should be some thing to give little shape to their bodies. The English dress continues in general wear, as there has been nothing found as yet to re- place it. Long redingotes are also much worn. suitable dress for little girl is a princess dress of light blue surah merveil- Ieux trimmed on the lower part with plaited hounces Above the fiounces is a moire sn- tique sash tied in the back. The redingote is of dark green velvet lined with blue surah- It opens in the back to allow the sash to pass through. The large collar and cuffs are of Irish guipure lace. This style of redingote may be of plain cloth, velvet, plush or fancy English cloth. Sometimes a cape or round collar of corresponding material is added.
 Field Of Battle.
 From BlAekvoods MAgAzins-I
 l had my letter to write and post, and this involved fve-mile drive by moonlight to the rear across the most ghAstly field which can well be imagined. had some trouble in