Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-08-01
ESTABLISHED 1850.

| with long ballS OF old china blue wool liner
and trimmed with beaded naSsenosnta-;e Z;
i shades OF electric blue. Round the neck am
/ down the front was heavy iabot Of craaTo en-,
colored lace, and the skirt consisted of alter
nate ruffies of cream colored lace and nnni
| yelling. A very handsome French cashmer.
| was made with q redingote and trimmed viii
| genuine Indian embroidery. There was moth
ing at all Oattre, and only one very pronouncet
] dress-a ruby-red satin bodice with skirt ~
| India mu with ruffies embroidered with rec
| floss and alternating with very finely pleateC
| hounces of the satin.
There were two good specimens of the black
and white which is used so much this season
| by ladies of acknowledged taste. One vas g
white nuns yelling, the killings of which were
stitched with black and the ribbon loops OF
which were black. The second was a satin de
Lyon, the skirt of which was composed OF
dotted with black rings. This killing with its
cream facing was repeated upon the edge OF
the basque, and the surah was used also to line
the large sash bow and ends at the back.
THE sPECIALTIEs OF SARATOGA
are hats, parasols and fans; yet of the former
excepting upon very small (baby) girls. there
is nothing that has yet been displayed that I1e
gins to equal the hats worn at the far West that
is, in shape and color. There are a few red
and bronze hats with high peaked crowns and
wide scarf trimmings of striped and shaded
silk, but these are rare. The usual hat is of
white straw with pleated lace or feather trim
ming, or both, and soft ivory facing of lace or
silk.
ed most delicately with very finely shaded
cluster OF tea roses with brown leaves The
sticks are of light brown Turkish morocco,
traced with gold lines. Many ladies are having
the small shell fans, which are no longer fash
ionable, mounted with ostrich feathers, and
this, at a cost of ten dollars, gives them fan
worth thirty. The cretonne fans flourish here
ana the new fans in red and gold satine, with
French figures painted or chromoed upon
them, or quaint rows of Kate Greenaway chill
dren, forming sort of Brittany br dal or fIl-
neral procession.
The parasolS, fiery red or sunset gold. which
looked so dreadful in New York seem all right
in this brilliant atmosphere, and a. part of the
ever changing and richly variegated panorama
One can even Iook with friendly eyes upon the
large satine umbrellas printed in gay poppies
or shaded carnations upon tinted grounds and
thank the manufacturers for adding their
quota to the floral effects. Nature has been
so crushed out and hemmed in at Saratoga that
all that art can do to take its pace is welcome
But the latest things in parasols are formed
with oval or canopied tops Of yellow straw
with lace-like border bamboo sticks and an
ornament consisting of one large crushed rose,
which is set on one side toward the edge
Straw fans have been in vogue for several
years, but these straw parasols are decided
novelty, and are very pretty when thev are ac-
companied by dress OF white satine trimmed
with open embroidery and gold-coIored rib
bons.
great element of pretty dressing for mar
ried ladies at Saratoga disappeared with the
embroidered skirts beneath, Young girls now
monopolize all the material lightness and
brightness. Their mammas are procession of
black or gray woolen robed devotees of the
modern practical and utiIitarian idea
Formerly they made charming groups
on the inner piazzas of the great
hotels, the wrought edges of the en-
broidered hounciDg upon the front of
their skirts showing between the handsome
robing of their dresses, and lifting Just enough
to exhibit bit OF the fine open worked stock
ing and the toe OF an embroidered slipper.
Now the feet are equipped for any emergency
on boots with broad heels. the fancy work has
given place to the seaside novel, and all the
embroidery that is seen is expended upon the
girls" and the children.
The ultra refined lady of middle age has one
little bit of vanity left il she chooses to avail
herself Of it, and this is the new Mother Hub
bard gowns worn in the privacy of the hotel
cottage" or rooms. It is made Of soft twilled
silk, not lustrous but light and very cool pink
china blue, ecru, or primrose in color; or it
may be printed or embroidered in a small
figure. It is made as a long sack shaDed in a
little to the figure, but gathered also at the
neck and waist, front and back; edged with
full lace ruff1es, and tied down the front with
ribbons. The sleeves are large, but gathered
in at the wrist, and nothing can exceed the
comfort of these Mother Hubbard gowns
which would also be welcome variation from
the colorless monotony of the matron at the
breakfast table.
Other pretty cottage gowns are Of old gold
or pale blue satine, with crescents or moons
traced with fine irregular lines in black and
white and gold as figure. These are made up
waists, to which the plain skirt is
the outlines followed by band of
old gold. The sleeves are full at the top and
narrow at the wrist, a sort of leg of-mutton,
with band of old gold and lace falling over
them at the wrist. 1t is very simple and
gracs full style, and this and the Mother Huh
bard are the only approaches to the aesthetic
idea that have been seen in Saratoga and
these are kept carefully out or sight.
PICTURESQUE CHILDREN.
OF course an exception to this sWeepinS assar-
ton must be made to the children, and espe- |
cially to the little girls. who wear the most |
astonishing hats, with gable roofs, as some one |
aptly calls the peaked crowns; the largest |
Mother Hubbard collars the quaintest ''Green- |
away" dresses; and long black or very dark |
wine colored hosiery-with costumes of ali /
kinds-white and red included. There is some |
thing curiously suggestive of the Apothecarv |
in Romeo and Juliet" of Smike and ali the
starved worthless ever seen upon the dramatic |
stage, in the number Of black spindle legs seen
collar, under broad hats, on the thorough L
fares and in all the hotels. Poor little leesl /
They do not look at all able to carry /
their owners through the chances and changes
or this life. But they do wonders on the occa-
sion of that Saratoga idea, garden party"
Then the little ones appear in their glory and |
present spectacle quaint and curious to be- /
hold. Their knowledge of society's forms and |
is much more accurate than that
Or older persons, and their observance of them
IS religiously accurate. Occasionally shame
laced boy will commit solecism; but girl,
never. All the Greenaway and Mother Hub
bard and early English" styes that young
and older mammas cannot employ for them
selves are expended on these dainty young lay
1gureS, who hardly seem real children so diff
ierent are they from the usual bread and but
5er period.
The conventional dresses are generally of
Inc Madeira embroidery or Irish point oy er
pink, blue or corn colored silk or satin; but the
1celle tint is also much used as a foundation
and many dresses are all white null and lace
Dr. open work with wide moire sashes. some
pretty and simple dresses were of old gold or
,erra Gotta red satteen with ruffled puffed |
sleeves and long black stockings the sashes |
lied round the waist. The low, square cut |
white null and lawn, and in delicate checkered |
yingham over pale blue cotton. There
are toddling mites in full Mother Hubbard
iresses Of ruby red satin. and others who
rather overpowering articles having been rele-
gated to the children
A suit of white cloth finished flannel stitched
Tith black, dark red silk stockings and red
silk tie is the undress suit of the small bow
and considered quite equal to the emergency
II an afternoon garden party, although others
put IN an appearance 10 all the splendor of
black velvet and Prince Charles collar
CHARACTERISTIC DRESS.
But perhaps the greatest charm of SARATOGA
s its variety and its contradictions II Is
dangerous to make an assertion here for Won |
nay receive ocular proof to the contrary the
lexte calico sacque walks content
IDLY by the side OF plush or velvet and "A ten
'ent lawn figures in connection with diamonds |
IS big as plovers eggs. Last winters fnery |
rails along behind the spick and span new
uit ot some blushing bride from country |
own, who sees Saratoga for the first time
md feels somehow that the combi
nation glory Of her high colored check and
)lain stun is fading out, and wishes she had a |
bale blue lawn trimmed with white needle |
' ork, and coarse white straw hat with white
,strich feathers.
1.-THE beauty of Saratoga air is that Won can
year anything in it." some one observes: and
ust then comes along lady in address of old
,old plush, and looking as II she was wrannad
n her own window curtain. Pontif plush in
winter is bad, as it is-exoept In upholsterv-it
s worse 10 summer, and there Is no fashion
Ibout it, for neither plush nor velvet are sean |
excepting occasionally, and then thew Iool-
heavy and out OF place. Even in a cool cIoer
atmosphere like that of Saratoga durins the
1ast week, velvet looks and feels bufdensoma, |
md is soon covered with dust, while the Ii0hf |
awns, the walking silks and sumTser % veiIi551S
carceiy snow soil and ara,wings instead az an |
obstacle and burden "a O"
Perhaps the most characteristic dreaa NJ tho |
eason Is the one composed almost wholly of
= . on I'm eMnoroloery white or dcelle coIors This is
me OF the loVellest OF costumes especiallv vvhar
ne under dress is of b tint in some rich mate
TAI tnat shows up the beauty and delicacv ~
ne work Over this the skirt, the bodice and
ne sleeves exhibit nothing but ruffies or 4 sur
ace OF embroidery, and the effect Is exceed
ection to which the art Of machine emhrpoSd- psI
,ry mas been brought within very recent De-
A0u' JENNY JUNE.
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