The Portland daily press., 1882-05-25
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

of the moment in Paris for trimming bonnets
for young and old ladies alike, but here the
color is thought too grave for any but elderly
ladies, who wear great bunohes of lilacs on
poke-shaped jet bonnets, or on large white
English straw bonnets, or else the lilacs form
the entire crown of small bonnets that have
great Alsacian bow of velvet covering the
front, and narrow velvet ribbon strings.
The dress bonnet for Summer is of white
English straw, with trimmings of white lace,
white ostrich demi-plume or an aigrette, and
dark-velvet facing in the brim, with light-tint-
ed beads on the edge. This is used in any
shape becoming to the weGrer. and Is liked be-
cause it is appropriate with any of the light
Grape, nuns yelling, cashmere, and muslin
dresses that will be worn during the Summer,
and also brightens up the black and dark col
ored costumes of Surah, grenadine, and gros
grain.
Very small jet bonnets are worn this season
by young ladies who have hitherto considered
them too old-looking. These are made of the
smallest bugles, to have them of light weight,
or else of cut jet beads that are hollow. The
crown is of "solid jet'': that is, it is thickly
wrought in a small pattern of beads that covers
the net entirely. The front is of lace in pat
tern with scalloped edge, or else plain with
rows of beads on the edge, and there are other
bonnets formed entirely of many rows of beads.
On the left side is a cluster of flowers, usually
dark red or deep yellow, or else there is an al
grette, or three tips OF pale pink, blue, or cop
per red ostrich feathers. Other small bopnets
chosen with reference to special suits are OF
the satin-porcupine straws, trimmed with an
Alsacian bow of bias velvet, clump OF ostrich
tips or of flowers on the left, and two pairs OF
strings of very narrow velvet ribbon that is
satin on the wrong side. More youthful than
these are the black and dark satin straw bon
nets of the smallest size, with the brim nearly
covered with the white blossoms of fruit trees,
especially cherry blossoms, or else white haw-
thorn, or elder, anemones or clematis Some
times, pink eglantine wreaths are used, or else
arbutus is arranged in Alsacan bow shape on
the darkest red straw bonnets, or there are
prim rows of bachelor s-buttons or of dwarfed
roses outside the brim, and resting on a velvet
bow that is placed further back and falling on
the crown. A small mask veil of the darkest
red net dotted with chenille is worn with such
bonnets.
Many round hats have broad, fiat effect,
and are worn poised straight upon the head
so that their brims are straight, and these pro-
tect the eyes we'll Other hats have pointed
high crown with shelving brim that pokes
downward on the forehead, while the crown is
surrounded with nodding ostrich tips or else
there is long plume on the right side, while a
single great bow of very wide gros grain is on
the left, and its loops lie upward on the brim,
*
or colored metal. The velvet puffed bindings
used in the Winter are seen on many of these
hats, while othors have lace pleated under the
brim.
LITTLE GIRLS cLoAKs, HATS, ETC.
The Mother Hubbard gathered cloaks are
still used for very small girls, and are made of
checked Cheviot for everyday wear, and of
pale blue, gray, or white cashmere for nicer
use. The dark navy blue flannel cloaks are al
so nice for travelling, and for cool mornings in
the country. Straight coats of white diagonal
cloth, with a French sacque back and deep
and ornamented with satin bows, or else are
made more elaborate with white open embrod-
cry done in wool Tor trimming.
Large round collars of white grenadine edged
with Russian lace or pleated collars of open
Hamburg-work or else the Irish point embroid-
cry, are worn, with deep cuffs to match over
outside cloaks.
Dark straw round hats are chosen for gener-
al wear, with wide brims rolled up all around
the edge, and trimmed with great bow of
four long loops of satin ribbon on one side,
with the loops going up on the crown, while
there are pompons or ostrich tips on the other
side. These are all one color, with sometimes
two shades of one color, as rose-colored POM
pons or feathers trim dark garnet straw hats,
and ecru trims seal brown straw. A dark vel
vet facing inside the brim and velvet ribbon
band with prim bow is a pretty trimming for
white, having the large bow of satin and the
half-long ostrich plumes all white on an Eng
libh straw hat. Chip is SO fragile that it is
seldom bought for children; the porcupine
straws with satin finish are more durable and
quite as inexpensive. There are many dressy
little poke bonnets with the front turned back,
a cap ruche 10 side, and the whole thing, straw
and plumes, of pure white. Lovely little poke
sunbonnets, with high crown and short gath
ereG skirt, are made of blue or white lawn,
shirred on rattans, to match the guimpe
dresses in color.
Very dark stockings are worn by children,
and black stockings are often seen with the
lightest dresses. Their shoes are of kid, but
toned high upon the ankles, and without heels.
The French aprons made of full, straight,
white muslin, gathered to binding at the
neck, and without sleeves, are used for service.
There are also high-throated aprons with yokes
and long sleeves that cover and protect the
dress well.
The hair is worn banged in front and flowing
behind. The bang is straight, thick, begins
far back upon the head, and falls low upon the
forehead; but there are no side bangs covering
the temples. The hair back of this is combed
back, and allowed to flow without frizzing or
plaits, and if ribbon is used, it is tied around
the top of the head, not merely around the
back hair. If the hair has the slightest ten
dency to curl, it is formed into four or five
large thick, long curls that are really only
curled at the ends.
SMALL BOYS CLOTHING.
Boys in their first short clothes are dressed
like GIRLS but when two years of age the prin-
cesse sack dresses substituted for yoke slips,
and these are alternated with kilt suits until
they are too large for dresses In one piece, and
the kilt suits are used altogether. The prin-
cesse dresses are made of pique for best occa-
sions, and of gray linen, flannel, and light
cloths and CheviotS for general wear The sim
gle-breasted straight front, with English sack
back, showing either one seam or three and
pleating below the sack, remains the popular
design for pique dresses. The deep collar is of
embroidery, and the cuffs match this. Anoth-
er design has two wide box pleatS in front and
behind the whole length of the garment, and a
loose belt is added across the back, or else there
are false backs set on the hips. These styles
are made up of repped or embroidered pique,
white linen, black and white checked gingham,
Chambery, and of the buff and gray linens that
wash well, and are useful for everyday gar
m5nts For the sea-side, for travelling, and
the mountains, blue flannels, both OF the light
army blue and the dark navy blue, are similar
ly made, and stitched on the edges. Little po-
10 caps of the material of the dress are worn
With these, and the long stockings match in
color. Kilt suits are worn by small boys until
they are six or seven years OF age. The plain
front of the skirt is now made wider than form
erly, and there are only few pleats behind,
but these are folded very deep to give sufficient
fullness. The jacket is single-breasted, has a
low pointed throat, for showing wide, white
collar and colored silk cravat bow; the back is
in the French shape that has but two form g..
making a seam down the middle. The Scotch
caps and polo caps are worn with these, and for
midsummer are dark straw sailor hats with
wide brim, set far back on the head. Dark
colors are chosen for these kilt suite, even for
summer, unless white is preferred, when pique
is used.
Knickerbocker trousers closely fitted to the
legs are put on when the boy is too large for
skirts, and with these is worn either a pea
jacket of the same material or belted blouse,