Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1882-08-18

tAAt1e OlZs LAZAA[As
have seen n noted Partisan beauty thus
arrayed for a ball, with her splendid
auborn tresses escaping from beneath her
oountesss coronet in diamonds and falling
below her waist the effect was certainly
very beautiful, but mn exceptionally rich
and abundant suit of hair is required for
this style to be adopted with any degree
of success.
For ornamenting the hair, feathers are
very much worn, sometimes confined
with stars or bowknots of diamonds.
Sometimes feathers, flowers end jewels
are mingled in the same coiffure, but
such combination requires very skilful
arrangement.
Cashmere, Nuns' Yelling Etc.
1t is the comfortable fashion at most
mountain houses to wear the morning
costume at the midday dinner; but
those who prefer changing their toilets
for the afternoon put OH cashmere or 9TH
er fine wool dresses that are also suitable
for the evening. The entire suit of CASH
mere, with merely collar, cuffs and sash
bow OF velvet, seems more appropriate
for the neglige mountain life than those
combined with skirt of checked taffeta
or of Louisine silk, but both are used.
Heliotrope, copper color, strawberry red,
dull blue and terra Gotta are the colors
most used for these tasteful dresses, and
embroidery of the same, or else the Irish
point designs, on white or on ecru null,
form the trimming. One of the most ef-
fective OF these is an imported overdress
of very dark green cashmere, with q
| nd MI al; y;rt ,f 4
white checked taffeta silk, and ecru null
embroidery for trimming. This en-
broidery. forms the Byron collar and deep
cuffs and square pockets it also edges
the paniers, and is sewed to the long
tucked and pleated front of the checked
silk skirt, where it falls on a balayeuse
pleating of the green cashmere.
The Colors.
White, pale blue and shrimp pink are
the colors most in favor for evening
dresses. These are seldom made entirely
of one material except for very young
girls, or when intended for day wear as
well as for evening. They are combined
with MORE or satin, moon-spotted gros
grain, and also with velvet. Shrimp pink
with coppcr-red satin, and pale rose and
strawberry red, are among the gayest of
these wool dresses. Pale turquoise blue
yelling is very pretty with drapery of
white silk muslin wrought with silk dots,
and trimmed with one deep, wide, fes-
tooned flounce of the yelling, supported
by others of satin surah Lengthwise
clusters of loops of satin ribbon, some of
which nre very dark and others very
light, hold the silk muslin drapery, and
there is n similar row of smaller loops
down the front of the corsage. For 9TH
er dresses of white yelling the silk en-
broidery on net is used on the tablier,
and also for making the entire sleeves.
fi1e embroidered yelling with small fig
llres of contrasting color is used for sim
pier dresses.
Lnwn-TenMis Costumes.
For lawn-tennis costumes the Jersey
waist is most generally worn, and the full
box-pleated skirtis sewed to the edge of the
waist, just below the hips, with an erect
heading that gives sufficient finish and
dispenses with n scarf or sash drapery.
The Jersey waist may be of woven wool
or it may be of the material of the skirt,
made in Jersey shape, that is, fitted
smoothly over the hips, without wrink-
lie, and has plain Byron collar and
turned-over cuffs for its only trimming.
This waist most often fastens in front.
but very young ladies prefer it buttoned
in the back. Sometimes a plain solid
color is used for the waist, and the skirt
is striped. Tne striped lawn-tennis cot
tons are now prettily made up IN pleated
skirts, to be worn with satteen polonaise
that fits like cuirass or Jersey, and is
lightly draped below the Aips. Two con-
trasting colors, one of u kch is very light
ha hnr Iorl a
wide stripes when pleated, the dark
This is pretty in ecru with maroon, blue
or cardinal red The polonaise is like the
dark color. Occasionally the entire suit
is made Of stripes, and sometimes the
horizontal stripes are used. For these
dresses x-pleated blouse with belt
and short wrinkled apron are worn with
pleated skirt. Polka-dotted foulard is
used for house sacques that are worn for
breakfast, and indeed are worn in the
house for the greater part of the day.
They are made of cream or lemon color,
pale blue, dark blue, or red, with fine or
large dots over them. They are made
with smoothly-ftted basque back and full
fronts that are confined at the waist line
with ribbon strings sewed in the under
arm seams, or else they are tucked or
box-pleated hunting Jackets that are belt
ed all around they are pretty worn with
skirts of white muslin or of black silk or
grenadinc.
Dressy WO0llen Costumes.
The dressiest wooden costumes for cool
mornings by the sea are made of en-
broidered cashmere in the new shades of
strawberry red, terra Gotta and gray blue. |
In some cases taffeta checked silk is pre-
ferred for the pleated skirt of such cos
tunes, but this is more often done when
plain cashmere is nsed, and the embroi-
derry employed is done on white or cream
tinted muslin in designs like those of |
Irish point. When the selvedges of the |
cashmere are embroidered, few yards of
plain cashmere are added for the pleated
skirt, and the entire costume is made of |
wool. The red shades now in vogue are
used by both blondes and brunettes for |
coaching and morning toilettes. Small
turbans are worn with such dresses. |
These are of dark straw with the turned
up brim covered with velvet the color of
the dress, and the crown is nearly COW
cred with breast feathers, or the straight
cocks plumes that are called seaside
feathers. A small red mask veil of che
nille-dotted net is worn with this turban.
When embroidery is not used on these
cashmere costumes the new satin cord
passementerie of the same shade furnish
es pretty collar and cuffs, and the dress
is made with lengthwise tucks in front,
from which the skirt hangs in pleats;
sash is around the hips and the waist is
plain cuirass basque, The rows of braid
chosen as trimmings early in the season
are now confined to flannel dresses for the
mountains or seaside, and would detract
from these handsome cashmeres.