Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1882-05-31
UP THE HlMALAYAS.
A Railroad Trip into the cIoudsGrand Scenery
and Strange People.


We now began to ascend the Hima-
layas! The tall underground gave way
to forest trees and the tea plantations
for which the Darieeling district and the
neighboring province of Assam are
noted. Higher up the fields were
adorned with flowers, yellow and purple,
blue and lilac. Great clumps of bam-
boo lifted their feathery tops to height
we had never before seen, and blooming
creepers let down their rope-like tendrils
fifty feet or more from the overhanging
branches of the woody monarchs. Bold
~ winding onward and upward, the min
nature locomotive abated nothing of its
hurried pace. Steaming and smoking,
as if warmed by the undue exertlon, 1t
dashed into the hamlet of Teendarla,
and halted for a rest.
In a few minutes our iron horse was
again climbing the silent hills, now and
then startling them with a defiant
screech of the whistle. One momentthe
eye dwelt upon distant peaks or a gil
gantic ravine; while in the next, on
rounding a slope, panorama of sur
passing grandeur opened like vision.
Below us lay the wooded SUBMITS, de-
scend1ng from one to another, and be-
yond them a boundless plain, ribboned
with silvery stream,
Murmuring adown from Himalaya's broad feet,
To bear its tribute unto Gunga's wave.
Now, for the first time during the sea-
son, our heavy overcoats were required.
The moist heat of Calcutta had been
gradually exchanged for the wintry
mountain breezes. At times the rails led
us perilously near the edge of the preci-
pice, but accidents are said to be rare.
Even with such expedients, some of the
curves are so acute that it was 8 surprise
to see them turned by locomotive. In
one place, called the Loop, the lire
crossed itself on bridge within length
of about five hundred feet. Familiar
bullock carts creep along the roadway
beside the track, but they were DO
longer accompanied by puny Bengalees.
We had penetrated to the region of
sturdier race, bearing the stamp of Mon
golian origin upon their features Many
were leading black pigs that took fright
at the train and attempted to bolt into
the thicket, but were held back by cords
attached to the hind legs. The struggle
was very ludicrous, and invariably ended
when, with his hams pulled from under
him and his fore feet extended, the pig
lay prone upon the ground, unable TO
move. Amid these and other diversions,
about noon we ran into the curious vii
lage of Kurseong, 4, 900 feet above the
sea, where we had tifin.
From this point, looking downward,
the views we're grand In the extreme;
but the great chain above us was hidden
by dense masses Of clouds. The strange
people at kurseong occupied our brief
stay there, and the same type will clam
description when we reach our desti-
nation and know them better. Once
more we took places In the small, open
cars, and rolled away, followed by the
merry shouts of the villagers. As we
rose toward the snowy range comfort de-
manded a rug for the knees and feet.
Such contrast with the sensations of
twenty four hours previous. The as
cent now BECAME sleeper and Or speed
much slower. We had taken stronger
engine at Kurseong, but it was tried to
the utmost by the heavy grade and
short curves. Tree ferns and towering
oaks, set in beds of wild flowers, here
bordered the pathway. Occasionally we
came upon gang of coolies engaged IN
clearing away one of the frequent land.
slides. Beyond Sonada-another OF the
euphonious bill names-we entered into
cloudland; not dreamy, mental terri
tory, but damp, chilly reality.
Once the struggling locomotive
stopped In rocky pass entirely out of
breath; and while it waited to gather
steam we walked nearly mile. The en-
gineer declined our challenge to race the
train, as well as proposition to pull il
as far as the next station. An Indian
"peg" (cognac and soda) at the last
bungalow, and the bracing air, made us
feel equal to any feat Trackless gorges
and noisy torrents succeeded each other
at intervals, spanned by substantial
arched bridges, Hardy peasants, of The
hill tribes, passed In growing numbers
some driving buffaloes or goats, anC
others carrying burdens held upon theil
backs by strap reaching across tie
forehead. Happily we were nearing the
journeys end.
few minutes later we ratified into The
bustee (village} of Jhor, seventy -foul
hundred feet above the sea. Snow wal
falling lightly, and piercing winds sweep
through the exposed car Our attention
was at once attracted by myriad q
rags, several on pole, one below tbs
other, flying from the shanty- tops. A
closer inspection showed that they bore
written characters. These were prayers
inscribed by the lamas, and hung out 10y
the credulous, to paralyze evil spirits il
the air! We were among the adherent,
of corrupt Buddhism; tribes haillue
from Thibet, the frontier of which i
distant, as the Zee flies, only about
hundred and fifty miles.
After leaving Jhor, the incline va