Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-08-01
FASHIONS AT SARATOGA.
OUR GAYEST WATERING PLACE.
Its dapIabflIty 10 Pretty and PIciu-
Feaque DFessIng-sn and Outdoor
COssumes-A Summer Opening

Teaque DresStn&-s0 ana OutsdOO
COssumes-A Summer Opening
SARATOGA, July S1.-There are many water
ing places and many summer resorts in thi
and other lands, but only one Saratoga, an
the more one knows of it the more one appre
ciates this fact It has not the originality o
foreign watering places, nor the exclusivenes
of Newport, nor the sea charm of Long Branch
but it has brightness Of atmosphere that i
unequaled, and a cleanness and comfort il
walking and driving that is particularly favor
able to fine and pretty dressing
Fashions here are cosmopOlitan-in fact
universal. What is really fashion and what il
not can only be told by discriminating expe
rience, for everything is worn. from the mos
elegant and costly toilets to forlorn and abjec
garments, picked up one wonders where, anC
looking as if the wearers had come to Saratogs
AS it was said some persons went many
years ago to Brook Farm-to wear cut theil
oldclothes.
Yes, Saratoga is a brilliant medIev-a ereat
spectacle full Of variety-where, on the one
hand, rich, vulgar woman will come down tc
@NNeSA
poor school teacher may wear her black OF
grey beize or cashmere without exciting the
least remark in regard to being well or i'll
dressed. There is all the freedom one could
ask for within certain conventional limits
Wealth or its absence are too common to be
noted, but high refinement and intelligence
which leads to originality, excites remark
while what is merely pronounced creates nc
comment.
WHITE TOILETS
are always feature of Saratoga because of
its cleanliness and the purity of its air, which
makes it possible TO wear them for a long time
with nut being washed. This year they are in
ing dresses-and are accompanied by large
hats of coarse straw trimmed with white or
ostrich feathers and gathered lace in a nest of
which Will be found a brilliant little bird or
out of which win show a bunch of black cher
ries or mixed white. red and black currants
Several tints appear 10 the compo sition of
these toilets; for example, 10 the linen or
null or lawn of the fabric and the omen en1-
broidery and lace which constitutes the trim
ming, and both of which are often used-the
embroidery as fiat panel, square necks, entire
front or the sleeves, and the like; the lace as
very full rufheS, cascades, long jabots and
ruf1ed borders These are apparently simple
dresses upon which hundreds of yards have
been expended, and, if it is a good copy of the
fine Oriental laces, it is not a bad investment
for they are fine, and do not pretend to be what
they are not. while their creamy tints and
lovely needle point edge make them as effec
tive as they are becoming
There is much more distinction in white
morning dressing than in evening dressing in
white, especially at Saratoga. The dresses
have a character of their own. They are
short They are too costly for the majority
who do not go to Saratoga. They presuppose
daintinesS in other respects, unlimited credit
fhR laundry RI ho dfc
played by transitory and therefore obiec-
tionable people. The favorite style consists of
skirt trimmed with ruffles of open embroidery
which cover it, excepting at the back where II
is perhaps draped-and a BASQUE, belted in
with wide moire or brocaded ribbon Some
times the upper part of the front of the skirt
is covered by draped apron bordered with
embroidery, and a series of fiounces is arranged
at the back, over which wide sash is tied Ia
large bow with ends; but there Is no great
variety in design to summer morning dresses.
the lines are straight or rounded; the designs
simple. very elaborate or fanciful design
would be all out of place in cotton or linen
though the fabrics ever so fine and pretty
Perhaps the most refined of these white
dresses for morning wear are the ivory satines
embroidered on the fabric and ACCOMPANIED
by gipsy hats or bonnets of shirred satine and
satine parasol with embroidered border, which
forms deep but scant and rounded rufie
The all white of such toilet is usually broken
by a wreath or scarf upon the hat in high
shaded color, and sash to match; but this is
not always considered enough, and the hat is
not unfrequently Of straw trimmed with lace
and feathers; and the parasol of red satine
with ivory and black stripes, or figure upon
it which reproduces the design of the sash
White appears as a distinguishing part of
the toilet at all hours. but during the after
part of the day it is confined to young girls
and children or is seen in the form of ELEGANT
hats cream celored lace, and silk narasoIs
and ruffied fichus. There are Occasional
garden parties and balls where very rich white
dresses are worn, such as brocade and en-
broidered satin with lace; but they are ont of
place in assembages more or less promiscuous
and the pretty combinations of silk muslin
and lace, Of satin suFah with lace, or embroi-
dered silk muslin are much more appropriate.
THE ABSENCE OF TRAINS.
One feature OF the fashions of this season 10
a great comfort, aud that is the absence
well carried. and not too much over.
laid, is graceful in a drawing room.
but when it is underlaid and overIaid With
rutiies and carried or dragged along dusty
walks or wet crossings, as formerly II he
comes misery and an obstacle which sensible
women should be ashamed of, and which once
having got rid OF they should see to it is NOT al
lowed to burden them again. Doubtless a
trained skirt will now and again make its an
pearance in Saratoga, but so far not one has
been seen. The handsome evening dresses of
embroidered satin and lace are made with
round skirts, or skirts VerV little lonoer tbo1,
@-ACSS
at dinner and in the ball room, are out Of
place at summer hotels, where dressing, must
be or should be different in ch lracter from
that of full dress in cities in the midst of tbe
season and surrounded by we'll of LUXURY and
refinement from which the outer world is ex-
cluded.
At the hops the girls wear charming dresses
Of nuns yelling trimmed with lace or ARRANGED
with widely draped scarfs OF ivory or gold bro
cade The latter is really the latest and most
distinguished method of making dancing
dresses, lace being in less vogue for evening
wear since it has been employed so largely for
costumes. Several Of the dresses
worn at the first garden party at the Grand
Union Hotel, consisted of plain and embroid-
cred nuns yelling trimmed with killings and
satin ribbons, but not with lace There
were others Of fine India null with EN-
6roidereo trimming and wide scarf
drapery, the ends arranged cornerwise
OF shrimp, pink or ivory brocade. These
were among the prettiest toilets worn
and specially charming because Young look
ing; so many make the mistake of wearing
elaborate designs and mixture or combina-
tion OF colors which add ten years to their an
parent age, while older women make an e0naI-
ly fatal mistake in selecting forms that are too
young, often from desire to escape the over
and elaboration of those which are
considered specially adapted to their age.
Quite little ripple of excitement was crsated
in dressy circles In Saratoga recently bV the
arrival of Miss Egan. one of the most famous
dress importers OF New York, and woman of
clientele rank among the first, and her onIv
former branch has heretofore been at New
port. The New Workers, therefore. who nm
derstood the significance of this new depart
obtain the open sesame Of her summer
paTlors. especially as Miss Egan her
self did the honors 1t was Miss
Egan, VINO once remarked to vulgar woman
who complained Of bill having been pre-
5ented OF over years standing, and scorn-
fully finished with 'but people in business
cannot be expected to understand the feelings
Of those who live in our world. +" ''No Madam
Tor In our world we have to pay our debts"
A SUMMER DISPLAY
Nothing is more difficult than for an outsider
10 obtain view Of the inner glories OF the
dress kingdom. There are exhibitions" and
openings " of all kinds, but they are of a
mixed and miscellaneous character, and draw
mixed and miscellaneous assemblage-that is
0ne curious and discriminating: incanahle
Of correct judgment because unacouainted
with all the sources of inspiration. and only
appreciative of that which is most startling
and incongruous, which is usually set down hv
hem as the highest fashion. That the contra
~ or this is the case has been reiterated 40
often that there must be q reason In human
nature. itself why it is not understood IL
IS the vulgar, whether among the rich or
poor, who demand constant change or novelty
It is the vulgar who think that one dress must
be made entirely different from another in or
der that every one may know thev have made
change. The ladies of the finest family at
resent in Saratoga wear cotton dresses in the
morning, and had eight made up by one favor
te model 1--WE lit Q that?" they said, ''why
should we have anything differentf'' Yet these
adies will pay ten dollars per yard for French
and twelve for plain silk, while the
rain to a reception dress worn by the Madame
mere on one occasion last winter was a marvel
costing ffty-six dollars per yard. These women
have the rare appreciation Of the beauty of Pa
orics which do not crush, which are pure
through and through, and so tempered and