Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-11-01

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| scarrabee. The bodice is plain, the neck Is
pointed, and for ornament she wears a string of
| dull gold beads
| This costume sounds eccentric, but 1t does not
look so, we have become so accustomed to di-
versity of individual taste. There are sugges-
tiOns OF almost every epoch I'm q really fashion,
able assemblage. although, Of course the ma
| jOrity will show the prevailing conventional
ideas; pulled sleeves, high, rolling or fan
| shaped collars, stiffened to keep them i'm posi-
| ton; Dire s plain as anun's-anything will pass
| muster but rOtundity. The only tOurnure that
has been able to find favor, even with those who
| stand ready to adopt the first folly that comes
| along. is hump below the line of the waist-a
mild deiormity that looks as if it had been in
vented by peasant women to rest the "hutch "
basket upon that they carry strapped to their
packs or siung from their shoulders when they
ieich laGots or carry vegetables or eggs to mar
het- below this the line is straight to the feet
so straight that the effect of short dress with
| IT'S high square shoulders and tight sleeve Is
very much that of an OlLfashoned wooden
pump with two handles and small projecting
ROOF CT edpOla, according to whether the figure
| Is surmounted by bonnet or q hat.
| But the best designs for evening or day wear
are severely simple. The cost is put into the
fabrics. which are very rich. thick libbed
Sicilenne. all silk. very soft and rich, is used
| often instead Of satin in conjunction with bro
+ cade terra Gotta dress has train front of
| Sicicnne, sides of magnificent brocaae in
| several shades of the color. Another striking
dress has a train of plain yellowish green satin
| over a petticoat of shrimp pink striped with
! solid bands of pearl and white jet embroidery.
! The sides are formed of brOcade which repre-
| sents the passion flower and vine i'm shades of
pink, ruby, olive green, ivory white and yellow.
The revival OF the tucker affords charming va
ration from the fiat square or V-shaped necks,
and the folds of India muslin which the best
modstes pin inside the open bodices. are
wonderfully becoming addition to the ensemble
modestly and quantity crossed and fastened
under the gown. Damask matalasse is a su-
peru fabric, which. so far, has been seen only i'm
white and black. In white it was employed in
| conjunction with ivory satin by leading firm
for one of the most distinguished though one
! of the simplest bridal dresses of the season.
| The satin was very thick and rich, and formed
| the long. round train and front of the dress.
! The sides were heavy damask mataasse, and
| the only garniture rare duchesse lace. A black
dress was equally magnificent, only the lace
| was Spanish thread instead of duchesse. The
| brides dress had elbow sleeves and the neck
was filled with the finest muslin.
| THE FUR SEASON
is approaching, and fur dealers are beginning to
show their new styles. which, however, do not
exhibit much of novelty. Fur cloaks and seal
skin Jackets are too warm for an average winter
| in New York. and have found powerful rivals in
the very handsome new cloaks which have APP
! peared within the past two years. and have now
reached distinction not approached even by
/ fur except even in its very finest qualities.
/ There are still some admirers of seal skim to
whom seal skin jacket of the modern improved
cut and length is an aspiration. but the majority
! find silk and plush more practicable and adapta-
| ble-and the all fur garments suffer in conse-
| quence.
| Fur trimmingsare, however in great demand
and are prepared with great care and of very
| good and durable kinds of fur. A process of
| natural selection has weeded out some of the
worthless furs which were formerly offered and
| retained those that possessed better and more
staying qualities. Otter: grey, silver and black
fox; marten. and beaver furs are all good and in
demand. Some of the most elegant of the cloth
suits consist entirely of cloth trimmed with fur,
and include muff and cap or hat. A redngote
for example. of Russian grey cloth. is trimmed
with broad band of dark martens tails; the
muf to match. The hat is a large velvet felt
with long grey plumes. Asut of ruby cloth has
plain straight skirt finished with a deep Dor
der OF natural beaver; long jacket edged with a
! band of natural beaver, which extends up the
front and around the throat; polo cap and muff OF
cloth, trimmed with narrowed bands of the fur
The polo cap has round crown set into cir
cular piece cut to fit the head, and forming the
brim.
The fur cape reappears in natural beaver and
also in black fox. 1t is very stylish for young
girls and completes a cloth costume or New
Market coat very handsomely. There are sew
era different kinds of sealskin hats and bonnets
One of the GainesbOrough type is known as the
''Iheo-" This is very striking. 1t Is pictur-
| esquely Ornamented with ostrich plumes and an
| aigrette in which there are green shades min
| gled with the brown. An English walking hat
| OF the Derby order is Ornamented with pheasant
| feathers and a red bird with an enormously long
bill. The bOnnets are of the moderate poke or
| capOte shapes, and are very mOdestly trimmed
| with ostrich feathers and tips to match. and
| aigrette and plush or wide MORE strings The
demand for them is not large but sealskin
outfit is always elegant. and where the cold is
| steady and long continued it must always be
considered desirable. Only the best shapes are
! retained in costly fabrics from year to year. so
that they are safe indications of the best and
most popular styles. The finishing of the fur
| capes is an Improvement ON those that were
! first introduced. The neck Is now set into a
narrow band fitted to the throat, and the whole
/ lined with quilted satin. Much of the rubbish
| in the way of tassels and passementeries has
/ been gotten rid of from muffS and fur clOaks
| The trimmings are now made specially for fur
garments Of fur and solid crochet, and are hand
/ some and substantial. There are fur-lined
cloaks made Of satin de Lyon and Ottoman
silk, but there is nothing at all new in shape or
| style. All that is distinctive about them is the
sleeve, and this supplies their name-the Man
| DARN, Mother Hubbard, DiavOlO and the like
| RICH SILK CLOAKs.
| The rich cloak of the season has very marked
characteristics. 1t is of costly brocaded fabric
lined with plush or quilted satin. and cut long
1
are usually sack shaped, the sleeves set high
and far back so that the narrow fitted back
| looks still more contracted in appearance The
/ band at the neck is rounded out and made stiff
and fiaring. but covered with thick ruching of
/ lace. feathers, chenille, or whatever happens to
/ be the trimming. The sleeve is full at the top
and OF the doll or mandarin form, the mandarin
| becoming the Mother Hubbard by adding full
ness gathered up to its shapeless ugliness. The
/ long narrow dOlman sleeve is the most graceful.
and when these are set high without exaggeration
or fullness they represent the best and most per-
manent OF the designs in cloak sleeves, since it
| Is now many years since they were first intro
duced, although Of course their detail and en-
| Vir0nment have been much improved.
The effect of the extremely fashionable cloak
Is. however, very peculiar. 1t sets the shoul-
ders nearly on line with the ears. 1t shapes
the back like an hour glass to the waist. and
carries the figure in a straight line down to the
feet-that is. after it has passed sort of win
dow sill, against which an interior belt holds it
in sort OF defiance OF reason and common
sense.
cloak recently received Is amagnificent gold
brocade on thick dull black satin ground The
trimming was made specially for it, and consist
ed of fringes of gold and jet beads and gold en-
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