New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-04-30

town and tic castle, but the approach to The min,
now is by an obscure track nearer the south from,
IL is perhaps q climb Of two hundred leet 10 thu
summit where stands the square central tGver
visible from MeBtone. No stately feudal c,stle
crowned these crags, but a robbers fortress IN
which life can have had neither pOmp nor ccmfori
Even in the principal tower the apartments vera
very small, and the heavy masonry shows 10 relic
Of architectural ornament On lower points Of tb.
irregular rocks the remains Of other towers and
the whole were connected by line of walls er.
cept in those places where the prccplce itself made
an artificial defence supcrfiuOus. Within the in
closure the natural inequalities of the surface VEN
left for the most part undisurbed. II gives usa
vivid conception of life the Riviera in the tenth
century to mark the Iuggedness of this once Impor
tant stronghold whence the rapacous Mosem
watched the fertile valleys and a long stretch Of
the Ligurian coast. and swooped down wherever
the chance appeared for piage or for slaves II
the lords Jared so roughly, how must matters have
been with the common foksi
The thoroughfares Of st. Agnes as of other places
of this type, carried through some OF the houses
by yaulted passages, and 30 it by penetrating
series of dark easements that traversed the
length OF the town. and reached a narrow teIraceI
platform on the front of the mountain where an Old
woman kept watch over the linen we had seen from
below. Tho shirts and towels were loaded with
stones, but they we're disposed to blow away never.
theless, and the carc-takcr had no sinecure. From
this spot there is a formidable descent cut in the
very face of the cliff with sharp turns and paved
steps, and for the sake of variety took our way
home by it. TO ride down such a deciiy.ty was out
of the question. Even without their loads the don.
keys hesitated and sometimes refused to proceed
The path into the valley was not unlike flight OF
ala W. m Z
with feeling of relief that we reached at last tho
comparatively easy slopes of the foot hills, and
found ourselves at hamlet called CabrOes The
houses of this picturesque little place are scattered in
so random a way through large grove of olives
that it is not easy to trace among them any plan of
arrangement or any idea Of street. 4 minute
chapel is Ornamented externally by a painting Of
somebody with an ultramarine body and yellow
legs addressing remarks to naked infant who Is
uncommOnly surprised by the apparitOn-as well
he might be- Quiet. sheltered grass-grOw n. scented
with vioets, shaded from the sun which falls upon
it with sOmbre and specked light the hamlet
seems to have been left asleep and forgotten in the
woods and covered out of sight by the growtls Of q
century.
On a subsequent excursion to a hlll-town called
Gorbo, our party was larger, and Pauline brought
with her a second donkey driver. Mathde is very
eyes ami her smile are beautiful; her voice is
musical: she bears herself with remarkable grace
and her manners. | may say without eXaggeratlon,
are elegant Indeed in the presence OF this polite
and agreeable yonng woman | thought that
Pauline was somew hat abasheG. Her chat was less
copiOus than before and she could only show her
good will by red ubed exertlcns in gathering
flowers, and a smile more expansive and sympa-
theuc than ever. She wore a hat on tins OCCASION
perfectly fat disk of white straw with two broad
riE bons falling the back of the head and she
Informed us that the cost of such art cle as that
was 10 less than five francs: but she had great am
Guilty in keeping it on. and suspect that she had
borrowed for the expedition only because Mathilde
had one of the same kind Our day was one OF
unalloyed pleasure. We lunched under the olive
trees in company with dog residing ut Ciorbo,
who made. un'er our auspices what 1 think must
have been his first acquaintance with roast chicken
no tail that ever dog had would have been long
enough to express the ecstasy of that moment, and
the wagcing was continued all the way up his
spne When we dismissed the donkeys Mathllde
made Us pretty little speech and hoped that We
were as well content with her as she was with Us.
Pauline could do nothing during this ceremony but
stand at the gate and smile her best but the next
day as we sat in the garden she brought two en0r-
nous nosegays and thrusting them upon us with
the exclamation Pour vOus" and a smile so ear
nest that it developed into half articuale laugh,
she vanished before had halt done thanking her.
n