The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1882-08-12
Descriptive Articlrs.
From the San Francisco Chroniele.
TRIP UP A CHINESE RIVER.
Notes of n Journey into the Closed Pro
VineeS.

Hankow, which, until January /, 1870,
was the ultima thule of foreign traders on
the mighty Yangtse river, is situated on a
level portion of the valley formed by the
river Han, which joins the great river at
this point The magnificent promenade or
bund of the English concession at this
treaty port is the object of admiration from
all visitors who frequent the port, espe-
ciaIly during the tea season. Only in re-
cent years has the work been in such fine
! condition When it is considered that the
summer level of the Yangtse Is forty-two
! feet above that of the winter, some idea
NAV be conceived of the difficulty in keep
ing a structure of that kind in repair.
Large sums have been spent uponit. The
entire length of the boulevard as 1t may be
called is planted with deciduous trees. In
! the spring and autumn they look well, but
/ the fierce heat of the summer fades and
burns the foliage 1t Is at Hankow that
the large steamers load their valuable ear
goes of tea for conveyance TO England and
the Continent Of Europe. The riverside
IS lined with boats Of every size and shape,
( from the towering HonaR junk. with its
f four immense irun-wood masts. 20 the small
quataz, or boat for passage TO and from va
rious points The current runs here, dur
( ing the summer months, at terrific rate,
due to the melting Of the SHOWS in the
mountain ranges of Yunnan and Thibet, a
spur Of the Himalayas, in the heart Of
which the Yangtse takes its rise As at
Hankow, the traveller sees the last remnant
Of Western civilization IN the way Of com
Portable houses and delicacies Of the table;
Z he can count no more on cold braudies and
soda, or clare,-cup, until his return.
Being bound on Chinese Government
service. my friend and were provided
Z with passport of immense size, stamped
with the official seal Of the Viceroy, ne
. splendent with dragons and other mytho-
logical monsters printed sround the borders.
setting forth ..to all officers, whoever they
may be. orders to assist in every way and
to obtain anything requisite for the use Of
the Engiishmen who are bound
10 Sueh0wfoo in the service Of the great
Ching nation To furnish boats at proper
rates and other eenyeyanees for them and
servants, and generally 70 do anything
Necessary for the Government service, &e-
: 1he passtoTt having bessn ssnt to the Tao
tai Of Hankow Intcndsns of Circuit to-
gether with cur caris ra stiff little paste
( boards, but genuine red oiiieial cards. with
our RaIaes in Chinese stamped thereon. }
we found, upon sending our servants ahead.
4 that the boats into which our dry gpozls,
Z eatahles and bsoks were stowed, had arrived
I Of the mouth Of The River Han, about half
! a mile away OuF party consisted as tive
Engiishmcn, four German artisans, and oar
servants. The party inelndcd 10 less than
Goo soldiers, who were detailed 10 assist IN
I transporting the heavy machineFy in cur
charge. Uur squadron consisted of ave
bssats for the foreigners aud thirty beats for
the soldiers and machinery. Leaving the
mouth of Han river It ? clock, p NJ. our
+ fsafalen gave mp the task of tracking aud
+ pulling IN about QUE hour, as oar way was
~ iispelled By an eslozzDoas raft Of loEg
+ yaalss and mast piecss foatsng down strain
thu VIC eonclnded g make fsss for the
night@nd start early in the morning
LIVING ~ HoATs
As we wished 10 scr = liitlc Of the gea-
alns hssAt vopalAiioa in this, the centre Of
K China. and compare nesss upon their habits
n.Y friend and walked down the hanks of
the rivcF, The Han, At is naoath is about
three quarters Of mile broad, and upon
I il waters ara gathered imnks of every de-
scripsion. Here Is the square bow and
I towering stern of that biz fellow from
I Slssx. he belongs 20 Henan. Ills junk Is
I bulk on curve, the stern being about hve
{ saes above the line of She bsw. I4ef us go
On board and have a glimpse at the inter.
nal arrangements The ssilors are grouped
around the gang plank, smoking their
+ pipcs, having knocked Of work 10 see she
( foreign devils EyidS.Ay these mari
ners never hsd such el0~e interview with
foreigners before. They fccl our clothes,
admire oar hearsls, and remark - one old
usanEin the crowd Why they are older
thzn yoa are, they must be hfty. The
old man said .sNo. these devils boards
grow quickly As god-tempered answers
are the best to give these peope, replied in
/ Chinese 10 the old man, Did you ever ses a
deyilg They stared aehass AT my speak
ing to them in their own dialect, and re-
ngained silent Cor some little time, when one
Of the youngsters sang cut. He speaks our
Chinese language, and the spell was dis
solved Immediately the usual SCI phrases
came forth, '.Wha, Is your honorable name
and acre and the multitude of other qaes-
items. 20 al of which we responded eheer-
fully.
Now came our turn. We asked for the
owner u the boat, and the old man, who
was captain or pilot. took us into the stern.
where We found the owner, surrounded by
his family. quietly seated at table halane-
Ing his books. He rose and demanded an
grily why We had been allowed to como en
board; but oar usual charm, speaking in
their own tongue, prevailed and he politely
saluted our company. The little ones, boys
and girls, together with three women whom
We caught peeping at us from behind the
eottOn-eloth door screens, now came shyly
cut from their rooms, and at the father ;
command the children surrounded us and
gave the customary Chinese salutation.
I The women, ike al those of the central
provinces, were very fair, with painted
/ faces and small feet, They were dressed
I in simple cotton clothes, reserving their
best ones for the performance of their re
/ ligious duty to joss ON board, or for rare
visits on shore They hanGdd US tea and
cakes, but the old man and the sailors, who
were crowded round the door Of the stern
cabin. looked amazed when they saw that
we did not eat the tea leaves, which is the
custom in the central provinces, where tea Is
grown. From the owner We learned that
tke Junk was then twenty-seyen years old,
/ having been built by his father; its eapaei-
/ ty was 5000 pieuls (about $50 tons, and
it was engaged in carrying wood, oil, hemp
and eofiin-wood. He could quake Oh an
average four voyages year from point to
point on the great river, and his earnings
would probably be's400e; perhaps, if he
went to Chin Kiang $50 miles from Han
kow, down the river, and back to Sha'sz
with Government salt, he might make
$4,000. But, he added, with a sigh, You
foreigners have fre-boats now; their charge
is low and they walk too quick.
WAGES or THE CREW.
There was crew of 80 men on board,
and their pay was each 5000 cash month
iIct IL tlo;, fooJ Resides +ha conk