Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-05-03

NhHfOnt TOILETS.
The highest evidence OF refinement to bt
found in the preparations for the summer
campaign consists in the outfits prepared fol
some of the Newport bellies There is not sc
much display in these, but there is wonderful
delicacy OF color and fabric. Ivory white is
prominent because it is only found in the
softest, dantiest of materials-China crepe
nuns yelling. India null, silk null, genuine
satin and the like. In less expensive materials
It'll only found in linens. linen cheese CLOTH and
in the finest qualities of satine
These ivory toilets are only possible to those
who live In an atmosphere Of refinement Used
careleSSly and under ordinary circumstances
by people OF somewhat coarse habits (speaking
In so short time as to make the cost a most
important question. But a woman of gentle
manners and habits can wear such dress or
costume upon occasions throughout season
without showing actual soil. But, to do the
Newport bellies Justice, they are not extrava-
CANT. AT least they do not wear silks and
satlns, velvets and laces, all the time. In the
outfit alluded to are dresses of striped ging-
ham. trimmed with needlework embroidery,
two short, perfectly simple straight dresses of
linen lawn, trimmed with linen lace and ac-
companied by small straight nchus There
are also flannel dresses, one in old blue and
with green moss in it. The most expensive
dresses are of embroidered nuns yelling over
soft white silk, and one Of black Spanish
lace over ruby satin, trimmed with
the latter filling in the square neck, forming
sleeves and panels at the sides of the skirt.
There were also several pongeeS, one of which
was embroidered exquisitely IN the self-col0r;
elegantly-one in shaded browns and greens,
the other in olives and old-blue. The paraSols
matched the dresses and were decorated, but
not all of them, with flowers. The bouquets
were not large, and the bouquet of primroses,
violets, or buttercups looked fresh and natural,
as if just plucked Several OF the cream-w hite
parasols and one of ruby-satin covered with
black Spanish lace to the top Of the shirred
ruffie had Dresden china handles and Innings of
old-gold, shrimp-pink-a very delicate shade
with suggestion OF yellow in it-or China
blue.
Among the special novelties for seaside wear
are costumes of cheese cloth with bonnet and
parasol complete. The dresses are trimmed
with killed founces narrow across the front,
alternated with pleated rufles of lace, which
are placed partly under those Of the cheese
cloth. The heading is band Of what looks
like embroidery, but is in reality an applica-
ton of cretonne outlined with buttonhole
stitch. This is repeated three times across the
front: and also upon the basque, hat and para
sol. The fine lace pleatings also reappear
upon every part Of the dress. The costumes
are imported complete.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There is a decided tendency towards the re-
vival Of the black and white that had so great
a vogue some years ago. Many dresses of
black nuns Yelling are embroidered with
white made over black twilled foulard
and trimmed with black lace and black moire
ribbons. 1t is popularity of the season that
satin is yelled, and the ribbons, both in the
very wide kinds used for sashes and the mar
rover ones for loops and bows. are all Of moire
Hats and bonnets of black flexible chip are
faced with soft dull shirring of satin Rha-
dames, and trimmed upon the outside with
black moire ribbon and white needle point
lace The fashion is also revived Of trimming
bodices. and particularly softly draping black
polonaises, with double rufies and jabots
Of black and white lace. Some elegant
models in black China crepe have been trimmed
in this way with white needle point Ia fine imi-
tation) and black Spanish lace, the whole
forming the lining to the black.
Color is now one Of the best tests of the de-
gree of refinement and cultivation in Dress
other things being equal The art colors are
such as peacock and old China blues, lichen
green, wood color, terra Gotta, bronze and
olive shades Flannel suits in plain brown and
navy blue can be purchased for almost half
the price that the same materials cost in the
finer and more aesthetic shades. There Is a
great demand for stone, faun and wood shades
this season, and lovely costumes are made In
these colors of Indian cloth, an extremely
fine and soft kind of imported camel's hair
and Chuddah cloth. These are made up in con-
junction with satin, and TuSsore silks, which are
not always of the same shade as the wool but
may be ruby or dull shade of old China blue
The trimming Is usually rich, open embroidery
upon the wool, and this is used in conjunction
with knife pleatings of the silk or satin.
SPECIAL NOVELTIES OR REVEALS IN SUMNER
FABRICS,
Chene silks have taken the place of what has
been known as summer siiks-that Ia fhe small
checked and striped silks. There are checked
washing silks still. but they have not the cached
OF the newest thing. India pongee has exne-
r1enced an enormous revival, due. perhans In
the trouble OF procuring other art materials
iFopgees we nave always. it is not extravagant-
and daintiest OF summer fabrics
emma crepe Is reViv ed, but only for a few
f for IL IS too costly for wear by the many. A
few pieces Of terra Gotta red have been ea1eriv
bought up to be made into countrv.hoHse onSd
fete dresses trimmed with white lace and worn
with white lace hat and parasol The Tnssora
SILKS are tine and soft, very cool and with their
indla tlnts and clinging quality make aesthetic
In wsshirg materials the new satinettes have
easily taken the first rank The gowns are well
covered with lovely and most original designs,
and though some Of these latter are bizarre
there are enough of those that are both pretty
ana original to redeem them. The new rose
designs has dark grounds-olive or chocolate
and some dull China blue. Upon these are
shaded roses-Mareschal Neil dark red and
others-with brown stains and fa5ipg foliage
There are also Kate Greenaway patterns. the
quaint designs of little folks, which are SO well
the borderings to small
leaIy patterns. The narrow chene striped
glnghams, with linen f1nish are among the
prettlest and most suitable materials for
morning dresses. They are made
with kilted front, draped back, and shirred
basque bodice or blouse waist and trimmed
with Madeira embroidery or Belgium lace
Very useful summer skirts are made short of
a somewhat coarse but churaba kind of Ere nch
batlste, hounced, finished with a drawing
string at the back, so as to mass the fuIInese
into Spanish dounce. Above this a series m
rufdes supplies all the touPnure needed Skirts
of this description have heretofore been verv
high, and only obtainable at a few small i'm
porting houses; now they are supplied more
freely and at much lower rates.
THE CHIEF FEATURES OF THE NEW cosrrurs
There is not much that is different in design.
The pleatings, for example. which are uniyer.
sal in the form of fiounces kiIted skirts or
panels, have had already long life and
promise TO preserve healthy existence for
and half long, as the wearer pleases, though
the half long Is the more general and adapts
Itself 20 long gloves. but it may be remarked
Ihat It is unsuitable for business, school and
travelling dresses.
The coat-basque has superseded the cuirass
and blouse, and straight belted waists are also
IN vogue. SQuare-cut basques and V-shapod
ood1ces are sometimes filed in with hull
cAem1Sette OF silk, satin, null, China crepe or
lace, and this is particularly becoming to fiat
and narrow chests.
Shirring is still used freely. but Ia declining
n the masses in which 1t was seen last season.
: : "a A"seesn VI SlCo'oo anu rOuno or square
apron-oVersk1rts have been q mass of shirring
inns Is found to be q waste of time and
strength, for it is not effective enough to war
rant the expenditure. Shirred rufles, that is
ruffies shirred three or five times from the top
the uneven number Is preferred), are very
popular.
TRAVELLING COSTUMES
have reached perfection, SO far as the limita-
lions Of the case will admit in the English
iailor made costumes imported from the best
houses Only the best cloths, best shades best
colors and best workmanship are put on these
seemingly simple suits-which are, however.
not at all cheap. The stitching and the buttons
are all the trimmings but the finish is equal to
hat put upon the fiaest coats for men. For a
ong Journey, one OF these suits-a Newmarket
coat and a soft felt hat with flexible brin-
ong gauze veil and a pair Of long wash leather
sloves-form an excellent outfit
JENNY JUNE.