Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-08-01
THE EVENING STAR.
FASHIONS AT SARATOGA.
Our Gayest Watering PIacc-Its iSSeot-
ability to Pretty and Picturesque
Dressing-In and Out Door Costumes
Summer Opening.


summer Opening.
From our Own Correspondent.
SARATOGA, July 3i.-There are many watering
places and many summer resorts in this and other
lands, but only one Saratoga; and the more one
knows OF 1t the more one appreciates this fact.
1t has not the originality OF foreign watering places
nor the exclusveness of Newport, nor the sea
charm OF Long Branch; but it has brightness of
atmosphere that Is unequalled and a cleanness
and comfort In walking and driving that is par
tlcuariy favorable to fine and pretty dressing.
Fashions here are cosmopoltan-in fact univer-
sal. what is really fashion and what is not can
only be told by discriminating experience, for
everything is worn, from the most elegant and
costly toilets to forlorn and AFFECT garments picked
up one wonders where, and looking as IL the
WearerS had come to SaratOga-as it was said
some persons went many years ago to Brook
Farm-to wear out their old clothes.
Yes, Saratoga is brilliant medley-a great spec
tacie full OF variety, where on the one hand rich
vulgar woman will come down to hotel break
last IN satin and diamonds, and poor school
teacher may wear her black or grey beige or cash
mere without exciting the least remark in regard
10 being well or i'll dressed There is all the free
dom one could ask for within certain conventional
limits. Wealth or its absence are too common to
be noted, but high refinement and intelligence,
which leads TO originality, eXciteS remark, While
what Is merely pronounced creates no comment
WHITE TOILETS
are always feature OF Saratoga, because OF its
cleanliness and the purity of its air. which makes
it possible to wear them for long time without
being washed. This year they are in greater force
than ever-partlcularly for morning dresses-and
are accompanied by large hats of coarse straw,
trimmed with white or ostrich feathers and gath
efeu lace, In nest OF which Will be found bril-
liant little bird, or out Of which will show bunch
OF black cherries, or mixed white, red and black
currants.
Several tfnts appear in the composition of these
toilets: for example, In the linen null or lawn
OF the fabric and the open embroidery and lace
which constitutes the trimming, and both OF which
are often used the embroidery as flat panel square
neck, entire front OF the sleeves, and the like the
lace as very full ruias cascades, long jabots and
rune oOruers. Ihere are apparently simple dresses
upon which hundreds of yards have been eX-
pended and II 1t is good copy of the fine oriental
DO not pretend to be what they are not, while their
creamy tints and lovely needle-point edge make
them as effective as they are becoming.
There IS much more distinction in white morning
dressing than in evening dressing In white eSpeci-
any at Saratoga. The dresses have a character Of
their own. They are short They are too costly
Tor The majority Who do not 60 to Saratoga. They
presuppoSe daintineSs in other respects unlimited
credit at the laundry, and are not apt to be dis
played by transitory and therefore Objectionable
people. The fayOriJe style consists of skirt trim
ined with rullles OF open embroidery which cover
draped, and basque, belted in with wide MORE
or brocaded ribbon. Sometimes the upper part of
the front OF the skirt is covered by draped apron
bordered with embroidery, and series or fiounceS
Is arranged at the back, over which wide sash is
tled IN large bow with ends; but there is no
great variety in design to summer morning dresses
The lines are straight or rounded; the designs
simple. A very elaborate or fanciful design would
oe All out OF place in cotton or linen though the
Fabric be ever so fine and pretty.
Perhaps the most refined OF these white dresses
Tor morning Wear are the ivory satines, elnbroi-
dered on the fabric and accompanied by gypsy
mats or bonnets OF shirred satine ana Saline para
sol with embroidered border. which forms a deep
but scant and rounded rut1ie The all white OF
such toilet is usually broken by q wreath or
scarf upon the hat in high, shaded color, and sash
to match; but this is not always considered en-
broidered enough, and the hat is not unfreauently
feathers
parasol of red Saline, with ivory and black stripes
or 11gure upon 1t which reproduces the design OF
the sash.
White appears as distinguishing part of the
toHet at all hours; but during the after part OF
dren, or IS seen in the form elegant hats cream
c0lored lace, and silk parasols and ruf1led fchus
There are occasional garden parties and balls
where very rich white dresses are worn, such as
DrOcade and embroidered satin with lace; but
they are out OF place in asSemblageS more or less
promiscuous, and the pretty combinations OF silk
muslin and lace, of satin surah with lace, or en-
Droidered silk muslin. are much more appro-
pirate.
THE ABSENCE OF TRAINS.
One feature OF the fashions of this season is a
great comfort, and that is the absence OF trains
train that is well cut we'll carried and not too
much Overlaid, is graceful In drawing room; but
when 1t is underlaid and overaid with ruffies, and
carried or dragged along dusty walks or wet cross
ingS as formerly, it becomes a misery ard an
obstacle which sensible women should be ashamed
OF. and which, once having got rid Of they should
see to 1t IS not allowed to burden them again.
Doubtless trained skirt will now and again make
ltS appearance In Saratoga, but so far not one has
Deen seen. The handsome evening dresses OF
embroidered satin and lace are made with round
skirts or skirts very little longer than those used
ior walking In fact, trains even at dinner and in
the ball room are out OF place at summer hotels,
Where dressing must be or should be different in
character from that OF full dress in cities In the
midst oil the season, and surrounded by a walI of
is excluded.
At the hops the girls wear charming dresses OF
" orr with
widely draped scarfs Of ivory or gold brocade
The latter is really the latest and most dstn-
gulShed method OF making dancing dresses, lace
being less in vogue for evening wear since it has
been employed so largely for morning costumes
1T OF 3h t9e worn at the first garden
and embroidered nuns yelling trimmed with
killings and satin ribbons but not with lace
There were Others of fine India null with en-
brodered trimming and wide scarf drapery, the
ends ends {arranged 1 cornerwlsel OF shrimp pink or
toilets worn, and specially charming because
young looking; so many make the mistake of
wearing elaborate designs and a mixture or COM
apparent age, While older women make an equally
fatal mistake in selecting forms that are too
young, often from desire to escape the over
trimming and elaboration OF those which are con.
s1dered specially adapted to their age
Quite little ripple OF excitement was created
In dressy circles in Saratoga recently by the ar
rival of Miss Egan, one OF the most famous dress
importers OF New York, and a woman OF singular
force, Judgment and Intelligence. Her clientele
has heretofore been at Newport The New York
ers, therefore, who understood the significance of
this new departure, were naturally a little eager
to obtain the open sesame OF her ''summer par
lorS," especially as Miss Egan herself did the
honors. 1t was Miss Egan who onced remarked
to vulgar woman who complained OF a bill hav-
Ing been presented Of over a years standing, and
scornfully finished with, shut people in business
cannot be expected to understand the feelings of
those who live in world" mo, madam, for
in our world we have to pay our debts"
A SUMMER DISPLAY.
Nothing is more difficult than for an outsider to
obtain view OF the inner gloreS Of the dress king
dom. There are exhibitions" and Openings OF
all kinds, but they are Of a mixed and miscel-
laneous character, and draw a mixed and miscel-
laneous assemblage-that i5 one curious and
discriminating; incapable OF correct Judgment
because unacquainted with all the sources OF
inspiration, and only appreciatlve of that which is
most startling and homogeneous, which is usually
set down by them as the highest fashion That
the contrary OF this is the has been reiterated
50 often that there must be a reason in human
nature itself why it is not understood: 1t
is the vulgar, whether among the rich or
poor, who demand constant change or
novelty. 1t is the vulgar who think that
one dress must he made entirely different
from another in order that every one may know