The Ottawa free trader. [volume] (Ottawa, Ill.) 1843-1916, 1882-03-11
BEYOND THE ROCKIES.

cu.roue and Tucson---Two Magic Cities OF
tha Desert.-Ssnd storms and their Terrors.
Tho Second Oldest Church in America
We passed Purgatory, crossed the Cemeron'
and made "Journado del Muerto"-the jour
ney of dea.h-to Albuquerque in safety, jour
new that IN years gone by was to many luckless
piOneer the eternal valley Of darkness and
death Year after year caravans OF emigrants'
freIghters ana fortune seekers entered upon
this terrible Journey with fear and dread OF
lures of man and beast, rarely lacking IN reali-
cation before Its completion, until the place
became what might be termed vast grave
yard-the last resting place Of victims alike
of thirst and savage butchery. What con-
trast between then and now! Seventy miles
or more beneath the rays Of burning sun or
twinkllng stars, without drop of water other
than such as was carried and oftlmes the sup
ply would prove so ill.calculated as to be en-
tirely consumed before the unfortunate travel
ers had traversed half the distance. Then
would come suffering, each day more acute
and intoerable, on which occasions self'de
struction was not rare And to add to the
horrors of the situation, rowing bands OF In.
dams, bent on depredatiOns, made the passes
and valleys their human hunting grounds,
where at seasonable times they would iall
uoon the trains of exhausted men and stock,
when the end would comet But now we glide
over this same journey In luxury and comfort,
seated in the elegant cars of the A., T. d. 5. r.,
and without percelving 1t we have gone over
the distance which was such a terror to the
early pioneers.
As the grandeur and greatness OF Ration
Pass, Santa Fe and the drowsy appearance Of
the old town we're depicted in my former let
tiers, will not rehash them, but 60 on t1om
Lennox to Albuquerque, over which the A, 1.
& S. F. passes. 1t is II remarkable piece of
country, afording a picturesque landscape
and, indeed, differing from anything OF that
nature that have ever seen. The great plains
stretch away to the right, with their growth
of yellow grasses dotted with stunted pines
and tall cedars, mingled with great brown
rocks, and here and there brown coored hills
or mounds towering up in pyramidal form;
while far beyond, in majestic grandeur, rise
the mountains, their sOmber sides and snow
clad peaks towering high In cloud land and
all affording picture of grandeur and sublim.
ity. To the right scene equally grand, but
more varied, meets the vision, where gradual
ly the plain narrows and foot hills appear mar
rover and the grand old mountains seem to
rise above our heads
AS the train gldes along, the great cattle
ranches appear and disappear in quick sue
cesson. A ranch" is usually an adobe, one
story house covering considerable ground and
located near a spring or river. This is the
home of the cattle owner, who according to
his herd, has a range Of from 900 to 100000
acres, through which his cattle roam at WILL
In O seml.wild condition, watched by "cow
boys" who from time 10 time round them
up" into droves, and separate the stray ones
from the other droves. The basis of every
range IS a water course, and whoever can get
possession of the land along the rivers has a
recognized title, without purchase or leave, to
all the adjoining grazing lands.
But these subjects are not In my line nor
the object of my sketches, so l will leave them
behind and pass on to things or more import
ance will touch but lightly on the antlqu-
ty and mystery Of the unveiled past which is
hidden away IN these native tribes who bent
their necks to the yoke of their Aztec conquer.
ers, and who later on became the slaves of the
naughty Spaniards Prescotts history will
tell the curious ones who seek to learn the
present habits or study the dim traditions
which extend back INTO the dusky centuries
that seem almost to touch Egyptian civiliza-
ton and religion while the territorial reports
of Powell and others will amply satisfy those
who examine into the curious architecture and
customs which prevailed among the peaceful
Taos, the industrious Navaos, the skIllfu Pc.
COS and Plcuris, as we'll as other tribes scat,
tered through the country. My object IN these
sketches Is TO deal with the present state of
things IN descriptive form, blending briefly
little antiquity.
1t was late in the evening when the train
drew up at Albuquerque. A crescent moon
cast CHASTITY splendOr over the place, and
made the adobe houses and shanty built edi-
fees look huddled one upon another like
frightened ghosts. This town contains almost
as much romantic and legendary ruin as Santa
Fe. Albuquerque lies along the river on a
low oergd, and is like all the rest OF the old
houses in old towns, adobe built. sTaking |,
m one would suppose it TO be all suburbs
unless one Is used to the country, or IN the
plaza, which IS the center of every town. l,
is an uninteresting old town to all appearances
Its principal portion being composed of few
nice aaobe buildings, handsome church
which fronts on the plaza, ana Is quite aristo
cratic compared TO other Mexican churches, in