Knoxville daily chronicle. [volume] (Knoxville, Tenn.) 1870-1882, 1882-12-17

down and joined to the back piece. The
back forms two plaits on the basque where
satin ribbon loops fall with ends and tags.
On either side of the plastron and around
the lower part of the basque is band OF
velvet. The small collar is straight. The
tight-fitting sleeves have deep velvet cum,
pointed on the outside of the arm. In the
center is small surah bow. On the left
ehoulder are loops of ribbon matching those
nm the basque and sack of the skirt. The
felt hat has a brim of moderate size.
Around the crown are two bands of velvet,
and on the left side is long plume.
Among the new opera cloaks is long
garment of ''capucine" velvet with single
seam in the back to make it sit tightly to
the figure This garment covers the toilet
completely without rumpling it. 1t is bor-
dered with fawn- colored chenille enriched
with balls of shaded chenille and lined with
plaid plush with red and gold checks on
peacock blue ground. Theatre cloaks are
also of white, red, or blue cachmemire
shawls, with the broad stripe of the shawl
forming the bordering of the garment, COM
bined with chenille fringe and balls of silk
and gold. These ''visites" are lined with
light colored satins. Another style of
Partisan cloak is of gray ''velours epingle,"
dotted with gold, and bordered with fox.
Above the fur is a trimming of chenille
fringe. A Spanish blonde mantle has
double lace revers. 1t is drawn in at the
waist In front and fastened by long
brooch. The ends of the mantle are taken
under the arms to form paniers, and fas-
tened IN the back in two loops and ends.
This mantle may be of white or black lace.
small petticoats are as varied and as elegant
as dresses. For morning wear they are of
red, blue or pink flannel, trimmed either
with narrow hources embroidered and seal
loped In colored silk, with white mirecourt
lace, or with strong guipure lace. White
flannel skirts can be worn at all times. For
winter use with black suits these small
skirts are of black plush trimmed with
black lace, or of black quilted satin, trimmed
with plated Chantilly lace, or with fine
wooden lace White wooden skirts are
trimmed with real or Valenciennes lace
Plush skirts are reserved for evening toilets,
and white plush is only used under ball
dresses. White petticoats are almost wholly
out of use for day wear. They are replaced
by black satin or colored skirts, trimmed
with read or blue plaitings. They are very
narrow, and fastened to the border of the
corset so as not to enlarge the waist All
the fullness is taken back by means of three
shlrrs on the Inside of the skirt. The first
shirr is about as high as the knee, and the
two others are drawn in at will under the
second or third founce. Chemises are no
logger made full and straight as formerly,
but they have gores are cut in shape, and
are more difficult to make. Much of the
insertion used lingerie is now plated
lengthwise instead of crosswise. The eff
feet of this plating is very good.
The small "capote Greuze" is the favor
lite style of bonnet. 1t consists of small
tulle brim, with lace ruching sewed against
it, over fine wires. The crown is made of
q piece of the material of the dress, arrang-
ed in careless puffs and trimmed with
cockade of lace or of "Arlequin ribbon"
The strings are of narrow ribbon velvet If
the toilet is of wooden goods, the brim has
one or two ruchings of the material to re
place the lace. The cockade and strings
are of worsted galloon. Small capotes of
velvet, plush or silk are trimmed with the
ends and loops of ribbon in several shades
already mentioned. Capotes for dress are
in pale tints, such as old pink and the vari-
ous shades of blue. There are also bonnets
Of ruby velvet, with gilt ornaments and
shaded pink plumes, and bronze and moss
,olored capotes; with light blue or old pink
olumes Around the brims of these bon
lets is gilt lace arranged in shell shape.
Large felt hats are generally either gray or
black.