Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-11-02

TO show tnelr new STYLES. which. however. do
not exhibit much Of novelty. Fur cloaks and
seal skin jackets are too warm for an average
winter in New York, and have found powerful
Isvals in the very handsome new cloaks which
nave appeared within the past two years and
have now reached distinction not approached
even by fur. except in its very finest qualities
There are still some admirers of seal skin to
whom seal skin jacket of the modern i'm
proved cut and length is an aspiration but thu
majority find silk and plush more practicable
and adaptable. and the all fur garments suffer
In consequence.
Fur trimmings are, however. in great de-
mand, and are prepared with great care and of
very good and durable kinds Of fur A process
of natural selection has weeded out some of
the worthless furs which were formerly offered
and retained those that possessed better and
more staying qualities. Otter, grey, silver and
black fox, marten and beaver furs are all good
and in demand. Some Of the most elegant Of
the cloth suits consist entirely of cloth trimmed
with fur, and include mun and cap, or hat. A
redingote, for example. OF Russian grey cloth
is trimmed with broad band Of dark martens
tails, the muff to match. The hat is a large
velvet felt, with long grey plumes. suit of ruby
cloth has plain straight skirt, finished with
a deep border of natural beaver; long Jacket
edged with band OF natural beaver, which
extends up the front and around the throat;
polo cap and muff OF cloth trimmed with mar
rowed bands OF the fur. The polo cap has
round crown set into circular piece cut to fit
the head and forming the brim
The fur cape resppears in natural beaver
young girls, and completes a cloth costume or
New Market coat very handsomely. There are
several different kinds of sealskin hats and
bonnets one of the Galnsborough type is
known as the 'Theo." This is very striking
1t is picturesquely ornameDted with ostrich
| plumes and an aigrette in which there are
green shades mingled with the brown. An
| English walking hat Of the Derby order is
ornamented with pheasant feathers and a red
| bird with an enormously long bill. The
bonnets are of the moderate poke or
capote shades and are very modestly trimmed
| with ostrich feathers and tips to match, an
aigrette and plush or wide MORE strings The
| demand for them is not large, but a seal skin
| outfit is always elegant, and where the cold is
| steady and long continued it must always be
| considered desirable. Only the best shapes are
retained in costly fabrics from year to year, so
| that they are safe indications of the best and
most popular styles. The finishing of the fur
| capes is an improvement on those that were
first introduced. The neck is now set into
| narrow band fitted to the throat and the whole
| lined with quilted satin. Much of the rubbish
| in the way Of tassels and passementeries, has
been gotten rid of from muffs and fur cloaks.
| The trimmings are now made specially for fur
garments Of fur and solid crochet and are
| handsome and substantial. There are fur-lined
cloaks made of satin de Lyon and Ottoman silk,
but there is nothing at all new in shape or Style
All that Is distinctive about them is the sleeve
and this supplies their name-the Mandarin,
Mother Hubbard, Diavolo and the like.
RICH SILK CLoAKs..
The rich cloak of the season has very marked
characteristics 1t is of q costly brocaded fab
ric lined with plush or quilted satin and cut
long so as to nearly envelope the figure. The
fronts are usually sack shaped, the sleeves set
high and far back, so that the narrow fitted
back looks still more contracted in appearance.
The band at the neck is rounded out and made
stiff and faring, but covered with thick ruch-
ing Of lace. feathers, che1ille, or whatever
happens to be the trimming. The sleeve is full
at the top and of the doll or Mandarin form,
the Mandarin becoming the Mother Hub
bard 70 BY AIDING fullneST gathered
long narrow dolman-sleeve is the most grace
full, and when these are set high without any
eIaggeration or fullness. they represent the
best and most permanent Of the designs in
cloak sleeves since 1t is now many years since
they were first introduced, although of course
tFeir detail and environment have been much
improved
The effect of the extremely fashionable cloak
is, however, very peculiar. 1t sets the shout,
ders nearly on a line with the ears. 1t shapes
the back like an hour-glass to the waist and
carries the figure in a straight line down to the
feet-thaU Is, after it has passed a sort of win
dow sill against which an interior belt holds it,
In sort Of defiance of reason and common
sense.
A cloak, recently received, is a magnificent
gold brocade on thick, dull black satin ground.
The trimming was made specially for it. and
consisted of fringes of gold and Jet beads and
gold embroidered lace. The lining was quilted
amber satin. very rich cloak of black bro
cade was in beautiful design, which entirely
covered the surface and lay over each other
like the petals of flower. 1t was lined with
ruby silk plush, and trimmed with very thick
wide and soft ruching of black feathers, which
were not sewed but firmly woven into the
GROUND work, and had wonderful effect. An
other was OF Sicillienne with long plush sleeves
and marabout trimming. A brocaded velvet
cloak has the sleeves set high. and is held in
over a full tournure. The lining is striped
tiger plush, the trimming wide chenille ruch-
ing and massive chenille fringe
NOVELTIES IN DECORATIVE AND FANCY WARES
appear in great numbers and ingenious va
riety this season and offers irresistible temp
tatiOn to those who have money to spend and
friends TO supply with wedding, birthday or
Christmas presents. Immense brass portrait
PLAQUES, and PLAGUE pictures painted on por-
library decoration. not that these are in them
selves to be considered new, ;" but that a re-
vival of taste in this direction renders them
desirable and has stimulated wide demand.
heads in bronze and brass surrounded by a
broad disc skilltully wrought and containing
cabalistic letters and dates. One of the at
fractions OF broadway window has been cos
tune studies Of the sixteen nth and seventeenth
century by Page, the French artist wonder
fully fine in detail and most exquisiteIy
painted upon blde, porcelain with delicate
gold scroll work upon the blue and
the subtlest hal 4nonv of color in the
gold and satin brocadeS of the robes and other
accessories of the magnificent costumes. Usu-
only, or busts. but these give the figures at full
length, and furnish superb styles of beauty
and form: A pair of these costs $3.50. and are
well worth the money. A Louis Quinze table.
just received at an art store, is inlaid with
porcelain 1 the centre containing a portrait of
Marie Antoiuette and is surrounded by minia-
lures upon porcelain Of the ladies of the court
which form the border, and are each inscribed
with the name in small gold letters This table
is valued at $3.50 also.
Wrought brass appears in innumerable
forms INTERCHANGEABLE 70 ovA
of fender, set of fire irons, and an art coal
scuttle, which may cost anywhere from $50 to
$3.50, or more. Almost equally essential to the
brass mantel clock, antique in form, and the
candelabra. also of an antiuuated pattern
Spinning wheels have had their day; they are
too troublesome. take up too much room, and
nave an air or afrectat1on. They cannot be put
on the manteplece nor hung on the wall, and
they have therefore been sent back to the attic
or cut up for fire wood. The three gods Of
household idolatry at present are brass, china
and plush.
The new sconces are of chased brass. FORM
ing panel worked in relief instead of an up
right mirror at the back of the swinging
sockets for candles. Brass candIesticks to set
nat are formed like censers or polished saucers
with the socket in the centre, and are accom-
panied by tray and snuffeIs The old spiral
candlestick appears, however. among the
novelties, and is more curious than the simple
ones of brass. which it antedates. 1t is made in
old silver and nickel or oxydized metal, and is
at present rare.
men are oecOHlng very luxurious, and their
dressing rooms, sitting rooms, wardrobes and
repositories for personal belongings display
tastes more costly than those of women. 1t is
they who build the modern palaces and At
them up in gorgeous style; they who spend
fabulous sums on household decorations and
who now indulge in an amount of personal
luxury which throws the habits of elegant
women quite in the shade Underwear of the
softest, richest knitted silk; dozens of the
South American pajamas for night and dress
ing room wear OF china crepe soft twilled Chi
nese silk cashmere, flannel bound with satin
and embroidered, and all in the daiptiest most
delicate tints and colors, such as ivory pale
blus, pink buff or violet The paiamas consist
of drawers and loose blouse jacket with sailor
collar. When made in ivory they are often
faced with color and embroidered with ivory
SILK IN little vine or in the corners Of collars
and cuffs II the pal jana is in coors it will per
haps be embroid 9red with white or have APP
pliques cut out Of white satin cloth or velvet
embroidered on. The daintiest Of all
nese crepe or silk enriched with hand
embroidery, and these are made for
the wedding outfits of fashionable men who
will have dozen of white, a dozen of trimmed, |
with color, and dozen in various delicate |
colors, embroidered with white These elegant |
gentlemen have for smoking companions the |
gate Of country house, in nickel or silver with
chain rings instead Of bars, to hold cigars up |
right, and side lights representing gate lamps. |
but holding candles and post pedestals to form /
match holders. These cost from $3.50 to S25O /
and are sometimes ornamented with a bird or L
a rooster in the act of growing Another re- /
Gently imported piece of masculine extraya-
gance is a lamp, the lower part of which forms /
a tripod set in a double hoof, decorated with |
natural hair. There are two burners, repre-
Senting wax candles, under tinted and deeor- |
ated glass. and the cost for lamp of this kind
is about $3.50. Another lamp has for its stand
ard horse shoe, with stirrup and riding whip
crossed and twisted. AS for the expensive ash |
trays, and liquor sets, and pipe racks and dress
and |