Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-09-02


very truth there is no necessity for devotng sue
cesSlve columns to the description OF the making
to such limitations as Quickly disposes sc Of them.
and paper patterns are cheap and plenty. The
only unlimited field is supplied by the imagina-
is always interesting to male readers, even though
they be living of some woman's earnings. This
gested by the brilliant display Of ''sampies In the
sanctum OF buyer for famous New York house.
eyes" he replied, in answer to a remark ''lad!es
will have magnificent materials to choose from
when they get back from Saratoga and Newport.
In twenty-five years have not seen anything In
the way OF design like the manufactures OF the
present season. Look at this now!" 1t was a
velvet br0che upon rose-pink surah ground. The
clustering leaves and tendris OF the pattern were
In dark wine color and lay in shadows which
lightened as they approached a long, full-blown
flower. Half of this was in shadow, half in light,
which came from beneath, while the dark Side
was touched by spots Of electric light, producing
wonderful effect at once illuminating and skele-
s9nz1ng the object as If an electric arc had really
"Artistc 2" repeated the buyer 81 should say 80.
!. VIII require "a an artist to make them up Here
piece of satin broche with ostrich feathers in pale
yellow thrown upon tinted ground, the stems
catching dropped rosebud and piece OF curling
and twisted smilax, while in careless proximity
lay lovely bouquet consisting principally Of a
large exqllsitely shaded rose and few vivid
leaves. What bewidering composition for
design to be woven into dress fabric! 1t might
have been copied from a ladies' dressing table
without the change of a single detail. 'sCost3 o,
well, don't you know such Stuff5 as these are not
used for entire dresses but for trains the front of
the skirt, and vatican back-besdes, growth of
the age must keep getting something finer"
MAGNIFICENT OPPORTUNITIES
There Is no doubt in regard to the opportunities
for magnifcence for those who possess the incli-
nation and the means to pay for It, and it is, per-
haps, as praiseworthy to clothe the human form
divine with beauty, as to expend 1t upon wall
paper or race horse. The new designs are all in
broche patterns, but they are not all expensive or
that IRE scarceH are upon Wool
colored ground and, indeed, though there are In
dlvlduai examples OF rich shading and striking
comparisons, yet the general effect OF the modes
for the coming season will be plain, dark and self
The richest and most novel effects In day cos
tunes will come from the new application OF
leather and gold embroidery. Leather, as applied
to the ornamentation OF dresses and jackets is not
quite new, but 1t is the first time it has appeared
In popular form. that is to say, upon costumes
that can be purchased outside OF Paris at price
cum 1de},elp perhaps something under $3.50
with embroidery silk In firm and effective stitch to
the cloth, the outlines being further emphasized
brown, bottle green upon myrtle, electric blue
upon cadet blue and the like. Applied ornament
a, i Is not restricted to leather There are APP
pllques OF plush, plain and embOsSed appliques OF
velvet, plain and broche; all outlined and varied
by many different kinds OF raised work In braid
used largely for tabllers on the front breadths OF
walking skirts which are otherwise plain. The
principal part OF the ornamentaion Is placed upon
plated and the jacket bOrdered or finished to cor
respond with the skirt
THE REVIVAL OF sOUTACHE.
There is sudden revival, one might almost call
it an upheaval OF soutache (braided) embroidery
1t is also used in the pyramidal forms, as it was
forty years ago, but it is made still more effective
by forming part Of the pattern OF the narrow
military braidS set up on edge, in what would be
called in metal the 'knife blade" pattern. Besides
the pyramid designs for the front OF skirts braid
ing is used In arabeSque and other designs for COS
tunes, and specially for jackets, which will be a
feature OF fall costumes. The soutached Jacket
Is s, not very long, and exceedingly jaunty. 1t is
OBJECTS when 1t Is placed in conjunction with a
walking skirt Of large plaided Scotch WOOL the
or brown, green and yellow. The skirt is not
1ounced, but the front is bias, and the slight
orapary TO which the most careless effect is i'm
parted, but which is firmly held at the sides, is
also laid on the bias. These costumes are exceed
lngly youthful, and their effect is enhanced by
Scotch cap, with cocks plume.
More quaint, sober, and altogether dignified are
the long redingotes OF dark green or soft brown
cloth, braided down the sides and upon the collar
OF cape the 'front.' opening to disclose the braided
front OF the walking skirt. These are handsome
and have picturesque effect, though not necessa-
rliy expensive. In fact any lady who is expert
with her needle could have a complete suit slammed
and then braid 1T for herself.
CASHMERE ROBES.
The beautiful open embroidery upon the mate
rial which machinery has placed within the reach
OF almost every one, and which last summer gave
the requisite touch to those hitherto difficult ma
terials, nuns yelling and the characterless (when
pla1D) pongee, reappears upon cashmere, fine
Gamers hair, Carmellte cloth, and many other soft
plain wooden fabrics The cOlOrS are dark and the
cloth" shades maintain their supremacy. The
embroidery is executed upon the fOuncing, and In
narrower strips for basque and paniers com
plete dress OF embroidered cashmere. with bonnet
ana 1eathers matching In color, is extremely ee-
n carl
autumn walking or visiting dress
Inc cashmere morning robes are another OF the
reVlValS, ana Will remind many elderly ladies' of
the days when they were on the threshold, rather
than nearing the back OF active life. They do
brOdered underSkrt, for they close down the
'front.' but they are cut straight and bordered with
cashmere bands with binding, or with embroidery
GOODBYE COMBINATIONS.
combination costumes have been dragging out
an existence which was not sanctioned by high
1ashlon for over year past-and have now re-
ceived final blow from which they will not be
likely to recover. 1t was their economy that kent
them so long in place; the possibilities they
Afforded OF making over and conceaIng the raw
ages OF Wear and time with a few yards of new
them. They had become things OF too many shreG Dc
and patches-a good enough surface often with
piece stuck on here and there without any appar-
ent OBJECT except to emphasize the defects OF the
Wearer'S anatomy. How often one must renaat
that the fewer pieces in design the better and the
the more cloWnish and patch-wOrky it appears
Plush Will not be used largely as dress ma
terlal or as a trimming CHS season or course
thoSe VINO paid enormous prices for plush oar
mentS and plush trimmed suits last season will
not relinquish them; but few will care to reneat
50 doubtful an experiment. Plush is useful and
handsome for upholstery, and there are cases
When IL may De adopted as lining in preference
10 any other fabric, on account of Its warmth and
so1tness, and its freedom from many OF the Ob1ec
tlOnable characteristics OF fur. Moreover. If onr
climate was reliable one, and the cold as severe
throughout the winter as 1t is occasionally Amer
lean women could not do better than follow the
example OF the Russian ladies, and adopt a single
lur-trlmmed suit OF plush as permanent winter
dress. But this fS not the case Women who ora
not rich require several changes OF garments in
order 70 equalize the conditions OF the tempera-
cure, II not for the sake OF fashion, and q blush
suit Is not only Heavy and expensive, but almost
useless, as 1t Can be so little worn.
There Is no doubt, however, that velvet nIatn
and embossed, will be the leading rich fabric for
day wear, as the magnificent brocades viii occunv
the nrst place for evening and indoor DurnOseS
Embossed velvet, plush lined, are used Tor the
finest cloaKs; but plain velvet fur trimmed and in
ane dark shades OF wine. myrtle green, cadet blue
and others Will be In request for redingOte suits
and the more useful jacket costumes. It is fOrtu
nate for those whose means do not admit of nav
Ing from six to ten dollars per yard for Lyons vel
vet that the new makes OF velveteen have reached
Such perfection and offer so excellent Substitutes