New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-08-27
CULLNIRY GOSSIP.


From me IOnnOn FtOOe
History tells the story Of the famous cotetette ne
r0ufon IN pdyilottc which TecOnclled LOuis the
Fourteenth to the Duke of Burgundy, lwhen the
latter returned from the campaign IN atIanders IN
I7OS preceded by the news OF defeat. The Duke
WAS e pected at court, and his arrival he has
tened to the apartment OF Madauie de Malnten0n,
where the King was in the idst OF his supper.
MADAME de MaIutenOn had eaten her cabbage soup,
picked q few cr,tynsh trom the Bevre, aud was
drinking her fayOrlte Hermitage wine. The King
cot ND and the great surprise OF every one, kissed
fine Duke most atfectiouateiy. pressed him warmly
BIZ the hand and, seconded by tho hostess babe
him sit down and share their supper. "Chama-
randen SAID the King, addressing his r0tet ne
ohGmtTe has not the Mayor OF Rheims seut me
some of the best vintage Of champagne andsoine or
the famous Rousse.et pears +" These good things
were placed on the table AND ChaMarande red'i
the letter from the burgesses saying that they had
sent their King their wine, their pears and tielr
hearts-n fact, the best of everything they Lad III
their city. Sire exclaimed Madame de Main
tenOn this trufied snipe Will not be enough IoT
our guests and fOt Us SO that YOU Will please leu
me otter you dish invented by my rather baron
de SuTIneau dAubgne. who was reputed gOur-
maudr The faVOrlte explained thai tue pat IN
ouest on was "a mutton. lamb or veal cutset streWn
with parsley and savory herbs. placed IN sheet OF
thin well-buttered paper, and then srIieu.
Why" said the King. g that Is wrapping chop
IN url-paLersw "Precisely,' replied the lady:
The King seemed to enjoy the Joke immensely, aud
declared he would have of these outlets on the
following evening for supper lnNltlng the gentle
men aud cOurters present 10 partdke OF the meal
Ar the same time q messen ger was sent - the Gov
ernor OF RambOuillet ordering him to send up some
of the best sheep he cOuld find ON the Royal farm.
On the following day the mutton outlets en- pdptoue
were eaten by the guests who drank the choicest OF
Rhine wines. and declared that they ad never sat
down to such an excellent dish before.
The July Monarchy revived the culinary art
which had lain dormant under the Revolution ana
the First Empire. Bequet, Brihauit Courchamps,
Lasailly MaltOurne. Neron aud the Count de vel
Ca-tel we're famous trenchermen and could drink
most of their companions nnGer the table. The last
named wagered one day that he could eat dinner
the cost of which should not be less than go. lie
was allowed TO draw up the menu, and an Eugllsh-
man Lord Seymour. took mp the wager. The carte
iucluded soup made from the choicest game caips1
roes served with Madeira sauce. Doued lualls'
front from the Lake of Geneva. crayhsb from
Rhiueland roast pheasant garnlshed with ortolans,
truifies and the choicest wines moneyfcouiu DIS OF
oorr1u.t could enumerate The Count gained his
,,gag.r and was none the worse Tor the dinner he
mad eaten since his experience had enaDled MN 10
choose dishes which pleased aud excited without
mailing on the appetite. Brltault invented the most
bonora ole COmpaniOn-hip or the BEL. Inc tandl-
Jates for admission we're Taught how TO swallow
down champagne One of the glass bells which are
grner,lv Dlacrd over cheese was hlleu 10 the oiln
with champacne and the candidate had 20 drink IL
of at a draught under pain OF ali KINDS OF hhGs'
prif.uIt vus A raIe specimen OF \ gaStrOnOmlst. lie
told "A colleague who said that two could sit dOwn
comfortably 10 fowl, that he agreed with MIN. Dut
that he Thought that he and the fowl were quite
company enough To form the duo! Bequet was one
of fhe shining lights OF the Companions OF the Bell
He drank deeply and, on the evening OF tine uealh
~ a very near relatIve "a friend found him discuss
inc g partridge and some champagne. Ills vlsiIOr
Expressed surprise at seeing him IN public place
on the evening of his unce's death. All. you
know, my dear fellow" said Bequet' wha' moro