Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-08-12
$ ,me direction as ourselves We de

ayIanQ SeIllnaTy WTlen
IL was located in the rear of the 18th street Baptist
church Though frank and earnesf, he was defer
ehtlal ana unobtrusive In his manner, and in
persuasive way exhorted US to become active men,
OerS OF some Church He spoke feelingly OF the
condition OF the people OF his race. and contrasted
their opportunities for Improvement with those
OF the whites. Upon leaving him at Gaines Cross
roads he said almost pathetically II wish you
TWO gentlemen would buy farms in this neighbor-
hood and come TO 1--we here. The kind manner In
which you have treated me, and listened to me,
and sympathlzed with me in the work in which
am engaged, Is different from what am ordnari-
~ used to. hope we may meet again. May God
bless and prosper you"
For miles before reaching Gaines Cross Roads
the land appeared TO be uncommony poor, but
here the soil becomes SUI ddenly ricn a small
stream being pointed out to US by the preacher
which divides the poor land from the rich. This
rich land extends for thirty miles to the south.
It Is excellent for grain and fruits and the hill
and cattle, blue grass growing here naturally The
nearest cattle market is Culpeper.
1t was lust shutdown when We reached Little
w aSnlngton, the county Town OF RappahannOcK
county, twenty-five miles distant from Warren
ton, where Gen. Pope issued his historical order
from
HEADQUARTERS IN THE SADDLE"
lively mountain stream flows past the town.
Before reaching the latter we stopped in admra-
tlon at sight OF the dark blue mountains which in
the early dusk seemed to wall in the place on two
sides. The somber outlines of the Blue Ridge,
only few miles distant, were we'll marked on the
clear western sky. Mine host received us cor
daily, and was much interested in the singular
trip we had laid out for ourselves. The hotel Is
SAID TO be over hundred years DID, and Is built
after the style OF that era OF Virginia. archpcture
Several OF the wel-tO-dO farmers and millerS OF
the place were iOunging on the porch OF the hotel
upon our arrival. We had stood the fatigue OF the
! out we were glad to retire at an early hour.
MUSIC IN THE MOUNTAINS.
Before falling to sleep, however, were favored
with some of the music OF the place. which merits
special mention. band of about forty of the
young members OF the colored population of the
nd
after directions as to the music from the dozen or
more leaders, had taken up their line or march to-
wards the hotel. There were comets and bugleS
and tin horns, all OF various sizes, and beyond the
power of any OF the performers to properly fill
There was, also. drum corps, provided with two
drums and 1nnumerable tin pans. The comets
played by sudden SqueezeS OF three or four notes.
at all degrees of time, pitch and force the bugles
blew intermittent blasts In the same way: the
larger tin horns filled in the intervals OF the cor
nets and buyleS, and the smaller horns, unable to
ind their places in the orchestral combination,
joined III, without regard to time, in succession
OF toots. in imitation OF the taps OF drum, while
the drum corps beat wildly, according to the I'm
pulses or eacn performer. The band had hardly
reached the front of the hotel when the rumble Of
heavy footsteps reSOunded through the lower story
and the clarion voice OF the hotel keeper heard
above the din: "SOp that noise, and get Outof this
street. or I'll break the backs OF every OF you!
The music suddenly ceased, and the band dis
perSed, but they reformed at the next corner and
took up their line OF march in full play, down the
cross street To the distant sound or their tootte
toote tootte bangity bang, bang" we fell asleep,
wards that all this musical ardor was generated by
the presence In the town OF real brass band,
Which had been organized by the colOred peOple
and whose music was said to be but little better
than that we had heard.
RAILROAD WANTED
Eleven o'clock the next morning found lis aft
Sperryvlle, pleasant little village at the foot OF
the Blue Ridge, on the road leading over the
mountains through ThorntOn's gap. Here we
found a delightfully."- neat and tidy little hotel
and, 1t being Sunday, We concluded to rest for the
day. large tannery, owned by parties in Alex
andria Is In operation at one enl OF the village
Inc mountains In this neghborh0od furnish an
almost fnexhaustible supply of oak bark but for
the want OF enterprise or means or TRANSFORMATION
the timber from which the bark is STRIPPED is al
lowed to rot on the mountain sides. A proposition
has been made to extend railroad facilities into
thlS fertile mountainous region If the county VIII
subscribe $4,000 to the stock The county is fully
able to do SO; but as every town wants to be the
terminus no agreement can be come to.
1t Is eight miles by the road from Sperryville to
the summit OF the gap. Leaving our satches
to be taken by the buggy which carries tn mail
daily from Sperryville to Luray, we sat out early
the next morning to toll up the mountain Five
miles OF the way was along a splendid road that
wound round the projecting spurs that encroached
on the broad valley leading up the mountain
Small farms are scattered along the route the
last being one, OF about three acres covered with
who was ploughing to plough round and round
THESE 60uiders, instead OF making a straight fur
difficult by the bouders and loose stones which
oDotpuct the way, brought US to the depression i'll
THoRN1oN's GAP.
High up on the left OF the gap the mountain ia
crowned by three huge projecting rocks, the high
est of which is known as "Mary's Rock" on the
right OF the apis less prominent continuation
OF the Ridge AT one side OF the road in the gap
Is a tumble-down old building, remarkably sug-
gestve of some OF the pictures of Swiss dwellings,
with balcony at the second story running the
whole length OF the house, reached by flight of
ricketty stairs on the front. the lower or ground
foor being used for the accommodation of the
at NJ nj
being used as a dwelling. A splendid spring, de-
nvef1n9 large and steady stream OF clear, cold
water, CUISINES from the rocks near the house. The
temptation TO make the ascent to Mary'S Rock
could not be resisted by one of U.S. and an hour and
hairs scramble through the scrubby growth
which clothes the rocky sides OF the mountain was
amply repaid by the grand and inspiring view to
De had from this rock, which is of the highest
points or the Blue Ridge in this section.
THE LEGEND OF "MARY's ROCK"
legend of the nelghborhood states that Thorn
tom one Of the early colonial settlers OF this part
OF Virginia. first made the ascent OF this mountain
accompanied by his wife, in honor OF whom he
named the bold and barren rock at its summit
Mary Rock" and this name 1t bears to this day
Poised in md-air as 1t were upon this rock, one
compass FOR distance of many, many miles The
view or the luray valley was beautiful in the ex-
IRENE 1haea Producing a pocket flask, libation was
name 1t bears, and a deep draught was taken In
reverental respect to her memory.
Descending to the gap, the poor proprietor of
the dwelling was found bemoantng the terrOrs Of
felon on his right hand, which had destroyed
MS sleep for three weeks. We could afford him no
relief, and rendering our sympathy took leave of
him and resumed our journey. We arrived at
Luray, nine miles from the gap, without incident
and retaining our satchelS from the mail carrier
stopped at the Luray Inn, splendid hotel, con
Quoted by the proprietOrs OF the celebrated Luray
caves. After visiting the caves, we next day went
by rail to StephensOn's depot, and thence to Jor-
dams White Sulphur Springs, where after weeks
soJourn. under the hOspitable attentions OF the
kind-hearted proprietor, and the free use OF the
waters OF the springs, we fully regained our health
and buOyancy OF spirits Returning we took the
Winchester stage about three miles from the
springs, and, passing through Berryvllle, again
crossed the Blue Ridge, through Smokers gap, OBJ
tains, and reaching Round Hill we took the train
for home.
To those whose health is impaired by sedentary
occupation in the public offices we saw take a
satchel tramp Into the mountains of Virginia.
MONTIvAGUs.
"Where Were the Police -,
To the Editor of THE EVENING STAR:
nd no onfin