Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-10-04
NEW FEATURES IN AUTUMN DESIGNS.

lace. Thus instead OF the much trimmed skiYt
of plain silk, wool or satin we have perfectly
plain skirt formed of rich figured material and
edged with thick triple ruching. the over
dress may be paniered polonaise drawn away
from the front. but extended and draped at the
back. Or it may be coat with tails and vest,
the latter affOrding abundant opportunities for
contrast or Ornamentation. The vest Is re-
viyai of the season, and in connection with the
dress coat or frock coat gives semi-masculine
touch, which Is however. sOftened by the full
square "Abbe" ties of lace at the throat and
also by the varied color and ornamentatiOn of
the garments. The dress coat is short In front;
the frOck coat long and straight. and accompa-
MED by the deep square vest-what is known as
the Louis XIVth vest.
These styles are not new, but they are the
revivais Of different periods, and have the effect
OF novelty to those who have not made their
acquaintance before.
very becoming accessory to dinner dresses
Is the 19u vest, gnampe, or plaston. pleated, or
gathered. This often extends from the throat
below the waist, forming a full chemisette above
and sagging puff below the Breton strap belt
or buckle which holds it across the front. This
puff may be repeated In the front of the skirt
above a broad band OF embroidery, brocade or
rich figured or painted satin. Or the band Of
satin may be plain and enriched with lace
founce. There are innumerabe ways of using
to good advantage even small quantity of q
very handsome piece of stuff, and one Of the
very best Is as part Of the tablier either above
or below the center This is the way bands of
Turkish embroidery are used In conjunction
with pongee and China crepe in ecru shades
There is broad general distinction between
the arrangement of combined fabrics for even
ing and day wear. Short dresses, as have re-
marked. usually show figured front. often a
plain draped back and plain basque or bodice
Dinner and evening dresses. on the contrary
when made OF plain and figured stuff, often show
skirt of the self color. shirred or enriched
upon the front with painting or embroidery, and
an Overdress in the Vatican STYLE. with small
train of lowered brOcade in the striking colOrs
and patterns which have appeared recently.
Mrs. John Drews dresses as Mrs Mnlaprop at
the Union Square theater. tell the story Of when
these designs fOurished; and with the excep-
ton OF the height of the head-dresses. which
may possibly reappear with the jewels and the
feathers during the present season, would serve
as elegant models for the elegant dinner and
evening dresses OF to-day. Of three which she
wears the petticoat of one is blue with train of
blue and rOse-red brocade; another. brown
satin shirred and divided into puffs with trained
overdress of rich coppery brocade, with an effec-
tive design OF wheat and daisies tied together
upon 1t. The third is pale mauve. with front of
uncut velvet valenciennes lace pattern and Wat
teau overdress-Of magnificent brocade shaded
in the ground color; cOrsage bouquet of Jacuue-
minot roses, and this red reappears in the paint
ing upon the mauve satin fan. There Is a red
rose also at the side Of the plume of lavender
feathers which surmounts the powdered hair.
The very long trains, 1t Is a comfort to see, are
generally abandoned. At the Oriole ball at the
Academy of Music, In Baltimore, where were
many beautiful and new dresses, only one very
long square train was observed and this be-
longed to white satin dress that was not new,
and it looked old, absurd and out of place The
long square trains always were ungracerul and
1nartistic, because they have no more connec-
ton with the rest of the skirt than the tail to
kite Still the latter is supposed to have use
which justiheS its eXiStence|it is intended to
''balance the kite" 80 that 1t will ay. The
square tail at the end Of a skirt has no reason
whatever for its being. 1t is unbecoming: it Is
In the way; it is mere senseless incumbrance
which should never again have an existence
The occasion above alluded to afforded an ex-
ceiient opportunity for judging of the wide
range allowed in the choice of material and the
making Of ball and evening costumes
A short dress Of rich pale pink satin, for ex-
ample, was made perfectly plain-brocade
front, straight gathered back. A white brocade
with pearled lace laid fiat upon the front was
made as full Mother Hubbard; gathered and
lifted only at the neck: elbow sleeves trimmed
Tied front Of pulled satin, with delicate
embroidered panels and Vatican train of pale
peach blossom ribbed plush. the rib containing
minute dashes of color, invisible, but repeated
In the embroidered Ornamentation. A very
rich black dress had front of satin EN-
broidered in richly shaded colors, the foliage
In dull greens and olives and train of MORE.
with alternating stripe Of brOcade. Nearly ali
the dancing dresses were short, and this is so
advantageous in many ways, so particularly
favorable to comfort. the convenience Of gen
tiemen and decency. that it is hard to imagine
our bright young women submitting to trains
again for dancing dresses. To evening dresses
cut, not very low square. it is common now to
add tulle or fine India muslin fichu, crossed in
the Charlotte COrday style. Round the neck a
pendant Is then suspended by black velvet
ribbon.
THE NEW REDINGOTE.
Supply what ladies want" said an old dry
goods merchant of New York, "and the goods
Will sell themselves; they will not require push
ing" This axiom, if it may be accepted as such,
certainly applies to the new redingote-a long,
straight garment, which envelopes the person.
and is edged with a thick triple ruche. The CO.
operative store. which is the most practical of
our wOmen's clothing institutions. was first in
the Held with this garment, which has obtained
vogue abroad as substitute tor the ulster,
and the demand is already weeks in advance of
the supply. There are two grades in these red
lngotes. both OF which are shaped exactly alike
but differ in material and finish The finer
grades are made of soft chuddah and other
French and Indian wOOls lined throughout with
twilled French lining silks and thickly ruched
with soft. dull twilled silk or satin. The more
popular Kinds are of Atwood cloth and mixed
sultings. dark and sufficiently fine for any ordi-
nary use. These are only lined in the waist and
sleeves, and are ruched with the material which
Is pinked out on the edge. The usefulness of
these garments for fall wear is self evident
They are excellent for driving, walking. travel
Ing, and all purposes where service is required
in city or country. They are protective against
storms; they cover up rather worn and faded
dress; and yet cOntriye to avoid the appearance
of the water proof. The favOrite colors are bot
tie green very dark wine color. gray and black
A more dressy outdoor garment is a combi-
nation OF the long dOlman with the Mother Hub
bard. 1t has the dOiman back and sleeves.
but is gathered at the neck and waist There
Is an interior belt which holds it in, and MORE
ribbon loops at the throat, upon the sleeves which
are gathered at the waist and below the shirrIEg
behind. The length is a matter of taste. but
the more elegant nearly covered the dress. The
materials are cashmere, plain and in India pat
ferns-ilned with old gold silk (twilled)
The Jackets are all braided, the designs being
executed partly in fiat. partly In knife edged
patterns and the most fashionable conjunction
Is remarked In my last letter. with the braided
pocket Is effected by the new plaids In shaded
browns and green's, cut bias and stretched Main
over the front of the short skirt. which has
wicked but fascinating back draped. "kinked"
AZ the side and called "Theo"
B0NNErs INSTEAD OF HATS.
Ingenuity seems to have been exhausted in
for there Il nothing now mi. 5000,