The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1882-07-08
Black and White.

The combination of black with white
80 popular few years ago is again in
favor, and is seen in some of the most
elaborate dresses of the season, as well
as in simpler toilettes. But this com
bination is very striking, and to make it
effective only the incest materials should
be employed, and these should be used
with the greatest care. One of the most
elegant costumes just prepared for New
port is made of black velvet-feured
grenadine over white watered silk. The
velvet figures are large and pear-shaped,
and are strewn at wide intervals upon
very sheer meshed amure grenadine that
serves for beautiful transparent. An
other reception dress has a white en-
bossed skirt and vest of satin with black
arabesques like applique embroidery all
over 1T. The great ruche at the foot is
of silk Spanish lace, and the basque and
back breadths are of black Spanish lace
over white satin. For simpler dresses
the satins or moires with alternate black
and white stripes arranged in plaitings
have been SO much used as to become
common, and in their stead checked
Louisine silk in black and white is used
for plaitings that are edged with narrow
Spanish lace. This makes a refined and
stylish dress when combined with black
satin Surah, and is also used with fine
French cashmere for the over-dress. The
prettiest design has foundation skirt of
black silk with checked frill three inches
wide of anticipating around the foot;
above this is another very deep plating
of the same edged with silk Spanish
lace, and this plating, though so deep
that its heading is concealed under the
very short apron, is laid in narrow plaits
that are tucked by machine from their
upper edge half their length, and are left
to flow loosely below. The short round
much-wrinkled apron of black satin
Surah is edged with checked fine plat
ing, fourth of yard deep, stitched in
tucks half its depth, and finished with
lace. This may be simple curved apron
with front breadth and single side
cores, or it may differ on the
sides having the left side stitched
in lengthwise plaits a short dis
lance below the belt, while the right side
has jabot of loops of satin ribbon or
else lace. The back drapery of the
black Surah is not trimmed but merely
faced on the edges, and is very bouffant.
The black Surah basque is in the short
polka shape, with shirred, pulled, or
pleated guimpe of the checked Louisine,
a turned over collar of the same covered
with lace, and scarf of the checks drap-
ing the sleeves above the lace frill at the
wrists; puffs of the Surah covered by a
lace frill edge the basque and the small
fiat buttons are wooden molds covered
with the black Surah. Another very
effective material for making the petit
coat front breadths of black dresses is
the checked black and white silk that
has slight MORE figure all through it.
There are also pretty summer silk dresses
made entirely of the checked Louisine
silks, with collar and cuffs of black
velvet, or else with many fine plaitings
edged with Spanish or with French imi-
tation lace, made in the manner lust
described for the dresses that have black
Surah combined with them. Tailor
made suits of shepherds plaid-black
and white twilled wool-are very popu-
lar for spring and summer travelling
dresses.
Black and white together is also very
fashionable in millinery; thus there are
small white straw capotes trimmed with
black velvet in Alsacian style, and but
tons of the white straw dot the velvet
very prettily; black satin straw bonnets
have haIf-wreath of white daisies along
the front; black lace bonnets have white
roses across the front, over which the
lace falls; black jet capotes have cluster
of white lilacs or a panache of white
feathers on the left side; black jet crowns
have poke fronts of shirred white mus
lin, or their brims are covered with
white lace plaitings; and large round
hats of white straw, with white plumes
and white MORE outside, have the be-
coming black velvet inside the brim.
Ficelle or flax gray lace is also sue
cessfully used as trimming for black
dresses and bonnets. 1t forms the cor
sage drapery, vest and cuffs of black
satin costumes, and appears in length
wise rows down the front or as side
panels, or straight border on tabliers.
The patterns are so large in this lace
that it is most effective when used with
out fullness. A bonnet crown of ficelle
with velvet Alsacian front is very eff
fective.. The Oriental lace has been
colored the flax gray tint, and combined
with white lace for jabots, but it is not
liked for frills around the neck, as it has
too much the appearance of having been
soiled by contact with the skin.-Har-