Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-06-26

The old-fashioned Swiss tamboured mus
Inns are again to the fore for dresses.
The new shade of blue called bleu de
mer is a rival to cadet blue for street cos
tunes.
Petticoats of the ecru pongee will again
be worn for summer with all but white
| dresses.
Some of the new satins are such marvels
of delicate flower printing as almost to merit
framing.
Ficelle lace in wide fan pleatings, with
smaller fans above of ivory white pleated
lace, are worn as throat bows.
Large fchus Of null are embroidered in
Irish point designs. having one edge much
wider wrought than the other.
The leg Of mutton sleeve promises to be
quite general with the opening Of summer
and the use Of light materials.
Venetian lace three inches wide forms
fat border for neckerchiefs Of light silk.
The scalloped edges are turned upward.
New full dress gloves are undressed kid,
embroidered with chenille and decorated
with minute butterflies in gold or silver
thread.
Dotted and plain mulls will be very popu-
lar this season, so also the striped null In
white. Tinted mulls are not SO fashionable
as white.
Daffodils, dandelions, yellow tulips and
buttercups are the fashionable flower OF the
hair. White lilies are the choice for house
decoration.
The leading tints this season are all shades
OF red, dark green, sapphire blue and deli
cate pink. The dull tint called old blue is
to be especially fashionable.
A few sateen dresses have appeared with
painted flowers, and some with cretonne,
and stamped velveteen howers cut out and
appliqued skillfullY with silks.
Velvet grenadines, showing great roses or
peonies of black velvet on sheer armure
grenadine, are made up over geranium red
satin, with fouuces of real Spanish lace.
Newly imported French woven underwear
Of all kinds, white or in pale tinted colors,
fit the form perfectly, and are without seams
or one unnecessary fold or even wrinkle.
sateen or fine French cambrics are more
in demand than summer goods OF any other
description. Ginghams are reduced in price
and very attractive in colors and patterns.
A new grenadine gauze wooden fabric re-
produces all the popular designs 10 Spanish
lace. 1t Is used for overdresses. 1t is only
half the price Of the real silk Spanish piece
lace.
Irish point embroidery in ecru or whittier
tints is much used for turned over collars,
with a neck ribbon and bow Of colored
MORE. The cuffs to match have smaller
bows.
A lat scarf Of Venetian lace is formed
into graceful fichu by being placed straight
across the back, gathered at the throat by
MORE bow, and having the ends fiat and
hanging In front.
One of the newest conceits is to trim the
front of the skirt with two plated puffS
above the plated ruffle, while the back is
draped in puffs and also finished with deep
plaitings at the edge.
An old-fashioned style is revived in the
mode Of finishing off the pointed bodice. A
thick cord ia set at the very edge of the
corset, and the tunic and paniers are set
Just underneath the cord.
For the evening, feathers arranged in the
hair and On the bodice, fastened down with
tiny diamond pins. are remarkably effective.
These pins are ia the form OF birds, crescents,
butterflies, flowers, stars and insects Of vart
Gus species.
The most popular Of the new shades in
gloves is greenish bronze, which, 1t is ex-
pec.ed, will succeed the popular tan color.
10 silk gloves the mousquetaire STYLE is to be
the most worn. They correspond In length
to the ten-button kid.
The most delicate, small and least snowy
ruches are sewed in the neck and sleeves OF
lin more often than of the fragile crepe lisse
formerly used, and are usually composed OF
three rows very fnely pleated.
1t is the custom now to decorate the tops
Of long evening gloves with ruche of lace
| and some minute flowers either Just bud
ding out or entirely in the bud, unless the
blossom is as minute as the lily Of the val
| ley, which are seen full blown.
The skirts of last years dresses can be
very advantageoCsly added to a new jersey
bodice of q shade to match, where the
original basque to the costume has become
soIed or worn. A sash can be laid over the
seam where the skirt and jersey are worn.
Women with high, broad shoulders, eepe-
| cially short women, should avoid too high a
ruche or too broad a collar. The STYLES
| most becoming to such are Vandyke collars
OF open lace or pointed fichus, so arranged
as to leave bit Of the throat visible under
/ the chin.
Perhaps the most fashionable coors of the
season are stone color and it's kindred shade,
| icelle, which is a pale drab, literally, Irvine
colors. Mouse color is more rare; so rare
that it is almost impossible to find IT; but it
| is very distinguished, aud is used for SER
viceable dresses.
Plain black silk1 have not chad their
day" and are woS6 as much as ever in COM
| binstion with cashmere and other fine wool
| goods. ALI gros grains have given way
| during the last two years to watered silks,
surahs and satins, but there is every indIca-
tion just now that they will soon be as much
used as ever.
Polonaises are quite as susceptible of
| being made elegant as overskirts and
/ basques. A new conceit has the over dra-
| perry being so arranged as to make the upper
! psrt OF the polOnaise appear ke a round
| basque, above apron folds, with shawl points
| falling beneath the apron in front, and over
long straight piece in the back.
Fichus and half squares in three cornered
shapes, nearly large enough to cover the
shoulders, are made of ciel blue, pink or
lemon colored silk muslin, embroidered and
/ scalloped with floss OF contrasting cOlors,
such IS alive on blue, pale brown on pink,
and dark red on yellow. They are to give
touch of color to black or white dresses.
Ladies who have small shawls of French
or Spanish lace can utilize them as fchus
by gathering them up slightly upon the
| shoulders, and at the back, across the waist
| line, and beltiHg them in over the pointe,
front and back. The larger lace "points"
can be used in the same way-5Y gathering
up more of the depth into the tullness upon
the shoulders.
The decided novelty is the shirred basque.
The sleeves are plain, coat shape. Over the
fitted waist lining, the surah, or whatever
| fabric may be used, is shirred IN the neck IN
shape OF deep, round collars. Under the
arms the shirring begins again, is round in
the back aud forms a point in the front.
| The fullness OF the shirTing makes the
graceful skirt finish to the basque.
The most elegant collars are OF sheer
| linen in a straight band, with e pattern of
drawn work near one edge, and Venetian
lace turned up on the other edge. Where
| the ends meet in front the lace is gathered
very full, and tied by narrow ivory white
satin ribbon that gives the effect of lace
| bow. There are straight linen cuffs also,
with tied lace bow, to be worn outside
the sleeves.
Two colors are especially popular for
Scotch giDghsm dresses, viz, very pale
| blue, with white Hamburg embroidery for
| trimming and the quaint dark red shade
that is called "crushed strawberry" with
ecru Irish point embroidery. These dresses
are very simply made, as they are to be
laundrled often, so that they msy be always
fresh, and their dressy look is given by the
snowy embroidery used upon them.
Cant Mallov of the Kansas CITY mo \