New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-08-20
A RAMBLE IN ENGLAND.
BY WILLIAM WINTER.
FIRST GLIMPsEs OF COUNTRY AND CAPITAL.

TO a pause off the coast Of Ireland, and. looking forth
across the black waves and through tho riffs in the
rsins mist, we see the low and lonesome verge OF
that land of trouble and misery. beautiful Whltc
light flashes now and then from the shore, ana at
intervals the mournful booming of n solemn bell
floats over the sea- Soon is heard the rolling click
OF oars. and then two or three dusly boats glide
past the shin. and hoarse voices hail and answer.
A fcw stars are visible in the hay sky, and tie
breeze from the land brings of, in htiu pulls, the
fragrant balm of grass and clover, mingled with the
salty odors of sca-weed and Shiny rocks. There Is
sense of mystery over the whole wild scene but
we realize now that human cOmpanionshlp Is near,
and that the long and lonely voyage Is ended
The night passes and with it the trip in st
Ge rge's Channel Next comes the panorama of the
bold coast of Wslcs-noblc with crag and Deautl-
full with color. Holyhead, with It's picturesque
lighthouse, its br.dged chasln, and its
peak, to upon our view, and fades away IN the
distance Then glide by the rocky shores of Orme's
Head and Rhyl, and soon we are anchored in the
broad, hospitaole Mcrsey. and gazing once more on
the sonlbrc spires of Liverpool copiOus DIS
bursemcht of fees Il weary waiting, scramble INTO
the tender frantic struggle with the Custom
House. a narrow escape from being crushed beneath
tumbiing trunks gauntlet of pertinacious beggars
and impudent vagabonds,-and We stand. III
freedom and joy, the soil of our mother land.
What glorious possibilities of vision and OF
thought are before us! What memorable expert
ences Will be ours, before bid adieu to these
historic realms!
Travellers who make the run to London by the
Midland Railway pass through the Vale of Derby
and s&lrt around the stately Peak thar Scott has
COMMUNICATED IN his novel of "PeverllD 1t issa
more rugged country than is seen in the transit by
! the Northwestern road, but not more beautiful.
You see the stored mountain in all Its dcicacy of
outline aud all its airy magncence of pOlse soar
ing into the sky-its summit almost lost IN the
smoky haze-and you wind through hillside pas
lures and meadow lands that curl0usly inter
sected with low zigzag stone walls, and constantly
a. the scene changes. you catch gilmpses of green
lane an shining river; of dense copses that cast
their cool shadow on the moist and cleaning
emerald sod; of long whito roads that
stretch away like cathedral ai5es and
arc lost beneath the leafy arches of elms and
oaks of little church turrets emboweredi in ivy
OF thatch cottages draped with roses of dark
rlvines ltXuriant with wild proiuson Of rocks
| and trees and of golden grain that softly waves
and whispers III the SUMNER wind; while, all
around, the grassy banks and glimmering meadows
are radiant with yellow daisies and with that won
derful scarlet OF the poppy which gives an almost
human glow OF life and lOveness 10 the whole face
| Of England. After some hours Of such pageant
SO novel, fascinating, ncctlng so stlmulauyc
I of eager curiosity and uniulhlled deslre-lt Is
relief at last TO stand Ill the populous streets aud
among the grim houses OF London, with all its surg
ing tides of liie and ali Its turmoil of effort, conflict,
| exultation, and misery. How strange it seems
| yet at the same time how holneike and familiar
| There aloft the great dome of 81. PauPs
Cathedral. with its golden cross that flashes in the
sunset There stands the Victoria Tower-lit EN-
tl,of of ho NNb
name 1t bears. And there, more lowly but more
august rise the sacred turrcts of the Abbey. 1t is
the same old LondOn-the great heart of the modern
wOrld-thc great city of reverence and our love.
| As your wandcrer writes these words he hears the
| FLASHING of the fountains in Trafalgar Square and
the evening chimes that peal out from the sDre of
II. M.T;ins-iG-t Fields, and ne knows himself
once at the shrine of al his youthful dreams.
| 10 the observant stranger III London few sights
can be more impressive than those which illustrate
the singular III which the life of the present
| encrOaches upon the memorials of the past. Old
| Temple Bar has gouc and only column, at the
junction of Feet-st. and the Strand, denotes where
once it stood The building that famous as
wills Coffee House is still standing, at the north
west corner OF Bow-st and Russeli-st but It Is now
shop for the sale of pork. Crosby Hall-built in
| l46G by Sir John Crosby, VI. F. for London
aud bought from him, ten years later, by
the Duke of Gloucester afterward King
Richard the Thrd-now serves the public con-
veuicnce us dnnc-room The picturesque rem
nant OF Cardinal Wclseys palace, in flcet-st, has
become BARRIERS shop. The Midland Railway
trains dash over hat was once ST. pancras church
yard-thc bnrial-place Of Mary Wollstonecraft and
of many other British worhies-and passengers
looking from their carriages may the sguaiid
| children of the noighborhoOd sporting among the
| few tombs that yet remain in that dcspoileG Gem
ctcry. DOlly's Chop House Intimately associated
with the wis of the reign of Queen Anne, has been
! totally destroyed and the ancient tavern OF " The
| Coch.r lmmort.,lzed by Tcnnyson. in his poem OF
| "Wln WaterpIoots MonoIoguc" is to disap-
appear; and ith It goes wooden passage-way that
dates back 20 period before the time of the Plague,
and that escaped the great Fire of 1866
On the site of Northumb, raud House stands the
Grand Hotel The graye-stoucs that formerly
paved the yard ol V Westminster Abbey have all been
removed TO make way for grassy lawns ntcrsectcd
with pathways. In Southwark. across the Thames,
the cugne-room OF the mammoth brewery of
Messr.. Barclay a. Perkins occupies the site OF the
Globe Theatre, that Shahcsp, are MANAGED. One of
the most venerable and beautiful churches IN Lon
don that OF 81 Bartholomew the Great gray,
| Wondering temple, of the twelfth century, hidden
away ia Il corner If >mthield. and so poor that II
mas To beg = siNpcuce from every yisitOr,--s
decorated by the Eruption Of gimp factory, one
wing of which bulges directly into
the triiorum and mpends above the
altar As lately as the 18th Of july the present
writer walking in the churchyard of 81. Paul's,
Coycnt Garden-the scpu'chre OF Wychcrcy,
Wilkes. Mack.m. Edwuf KING, ilaines and many
| other renowned voiarcs OF the staGe-tound work
men building new Will to sustain The enclosure,
and almost every stone in the cemetery uprooted
and leaning against the adjacent houses These
monuments. il was sand. wOnIl all DC repiaced but