Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-10-03
used used n IN cor, conjunction with pOngee and China

% oo -, - 60 s o5tene le OF combined fabrics fol
remarked, usually show figured front. ofter
plain draped back, and plain bssnue or bod
zee. Dlnner ana evening dresses. on the con
trary, when made of plain and figured stun
often show a skirt of the self color shirred ri
enriched upon the front with painting or em
broidery and an overdress in the Wattesu
style, with small train of lowered brocade II
the striking colors and patterns which have
appeared recently. Mrs. John Drew s dresses
as MRS. Malaprop" at the Union SQUARE
Theatre tell the story Of when these designs
fiourished and with the exception OF the height
or the hairdresses. which may possibly reap
| pear with the jewels and the feathers during
the present season, would serve as ele
CANT models for the elegant dinner
and evening dresses OF to-day. OF three
which she wears, the petticoat of one is blue
with train Of blue and rose red brocsde; an
other, brown satin. shirred and divided into
puffs. with trained overdress OF rich coppery
brocade. with an effective design OF wheat and
daisies tied together upon It. The third is pale
mauVe with front OF uncut velvet valenciennes
lace pattern and Vatican overdress of maEnih
cent brocade shaded In the ground color. Cor.
sage ouquet of jacQueminot roses; and this
red reappears in the painting upon the mauve
satin ran There IS red rose also at the side
OF the plume of lavender feathers which sur
mounts the powdered hair,
The very long trains, It is a comfort to see
are generally abandoned. At the Oriole ball
at the Academy of Music, in Baltimore whece
were many beautiful and new dresses. only one
very long square train was observed. and this
| a Z nDt
new, and 1t looked old, absurd and out Of place
The long square traiss alway were ungraceful
and inartistic. because they have no more con-
| nectiOn with the rest OF the skirt than the rafI
to kite Still the latter is supposed to have
a use which lustifieS its eXistence-it Is intend.
| ed to balance the kite go that it will hy The
SOU re tail at the end of skirt has no reason
| Whatever for its being. IL is unhecOming; il is
! 10 the way IL is mere senseless incumbrancs
| which should never again have an existence.
The occasion above alluded TO afforded an ex-
| cellent opportunity for judging of the wide
| range allowed in the choice of material and the
| making OF ball and evening costumes.
A short dress of rich pale pink satin for
exam example, was made perfect by plain brocade
| orocade, with pearled lace laid fiat upon the
front, was made as a full Mother Hubbard
gathered and ntted only at the neck, and the
| elbow sleeves trimmed with pearled lace. A
| striking dress exhibited front Of puffed satin
| with delicately embroidered panels and Wat
teau train of pale peach blossom riboed plush
/ the rib containing minute dashes Of color
| invisible, but repeated in the embroidered
ornamentation. A very rich black dress had a
| front of satin embroidered in richly shaded
colors, the foliage in dull greens and olives and
| train of MORE, with alternating stripe OF bro
cade. Nearly all the dancing dresses were
| short. and this is so advantageous ia many
ways-so particularly favorable 10 comfort
the conveDience OF gentlemen, and decency-
that it is hard to imagine our bright Young
women submitting to trains again for dancing
dresses. To evening dresses cut a not very
| low square it is common now to add tulle or
fine India muslin fichu, crossed In the Charlotte
Corday style. Round the neck a pendant is
then suspended by black velvet ribbon.
THE NEW REDINGoTE.
supply what ladies want" said an old dry
goods merchant or New York, land the goods
Will sell themselves; they will not REQUIRE
pushing" his axiom, if it may be accepted
as such, certainly applies TO the new redingote,
a long, straight garment, which envelopes the
person, and is edged with a thick, triple rucbe
The co operative store which is the most prac-
tlcal OF our women's clothing institutions was
nEse sei 10 me neId with this garment, which has
obtained vogue abroad as a substitute for
the ulster, and the demand is already weeks
in advance of the supply. There are two
grades ia these redingotes, both of which are
shaped exactly alike, but differ in material and
finish. The finer grades are made OF soft chud
dah and other French and Indian wools and
lined throughout with twilled French lining si X
and thickly ruched with soft dull twilled silk
or satin. The more popular kinds are of all.
wool cloth and mixed suitings, dark and suff1-
ciently fine for any ord nary use These are
only lined in the waist and sleeves and are
ruched with the material which is pinked ont
on the edge The usefulness of these gar
ments for fall wear is self evident They are
excellent Tor driving, walking, travelling, and |
all purposes where service is required ia city |
or country. They are protective against |
storms they cover up a rather worn and faded |
dressi ana yet cOntrive to avoid the appear
ance OF the water proof. The favorite colors |
and black. e''
A more UfeSSy OUTDOOR garment is a C0mhf- |
nation OF the long dolman with the Mother
Hubbard. It has the dolman back and sleeve
but is gathered at the neck and waist. There
Is an interior belt which holds it in, and moire
ribbon loops at the throat upon the sleeves
which are gathered at the waist and below the
shlrr1ng behind. The length is a enatter of
taste, but the more elegant nearly cover The
dress. The materials are cashmere-pIain and
(twilled). 7
The jackets are all braided. the designs being
pX2Cnfad in Haf
patterns. and the most fashionable conjunc
uon. as remarked in my last letter with the |
braided jacket is effected by the new plaids in |
shaded browns and greens, cut bias and
stretched plain over the front Of the short
sklrt, which has wicked but fascinating back
draped, "kinked" at the side and called ''Theo.'
BoNNErs INSTEAD OF HATS
Ingenuity seems to have been exhausted in
millinery, for there is nothing new this season |
to chronicle so far. The most notable things |
are very simple in style and recall the bonnets |
or forty years ago to those who have seen
them. They are bOnnets without anV douht:
large In crown and brim. and lined with down
silk orsatin in contrasting C 1lor such as pale
pink with black or brown, ruby with bottle
green, garnet and old gold, and ficelle as an |
interior Tor wine color. The only trimming il |
a large Alsatian bow upon the op OF the brim.
The hat has not disappeared, but it is subordi-
mated to the bonnet. which is only uncomforta
bic because it is uncertain and Vibra es like a |
pendulum between the large and small the |
thatched roof and the close neuralgia breeding |
''scull " There is comfort, however. for the |
OLD ladies' They have not for many ears have |
had bonnet so comfortable, so capable Of |
holding cap as the large crowned grand. |
mOtherly looking ones which have come 70 ms |
with the present season, and which, oddly |
enough, ara employed alike for the very oil |
ana the very young, while the middle-aged
cling 70 the small regulation bonnet and the |
young women choose feather turbans for ordi- |
nary walking wear the large cap for carriage |
riding and driving, and the cOQuettish bonnets |
of Spanish lace and crushed roses, or beaded |
embroidery and enamelled bugs beetles and |
outIeInles Tor theatre and concert wear. Fets |
are very much in demand and are much i'm |
proved In quality. lt is of little use to buy the
poorer kinds, for they spot and lose their shane
immediately. The velvet felts, on the con. |
trary, and the felts with q short hick wool
pile, known as the St. Bernard, are Thoroughly |
resisting" and can be relied upon for wear
and service. All kinds OF feathers are made
up into ali sorts Of shapes and forms but there
Is sentiment growing up which dealers would |
DO well to heed in regard 10 birds as Ornaments
The fear of getting rid Of a species hardly ap-
PlIes 20 t1is nus country where birds are so numer
Gus, but the cruelty is the same everywhere
and the taste is beginning TO be very Question.
able that will spit bird, taken alive for the
purpose, and with its sweet song still in its
throat, upon bonnet aud wear it, for an orna-
ment.
Most charming bonnets come from Paris
consisting or white felt, white Sicilienne white
uncdt velvet and white satin, in the quaintest
little shapes imaginable They have oval or
upright crowns and queer turn-up or ha |
rolled over brims. which, If of felt are lined
With shirred silk or satin and trimmed vii h fuII
ostrich fe theirs, just curIed over the edge OF |
the brim, and thick corded or satIa ribbon. |
The large scoop and small poke bonnets are the |
favorites for little girls Hats selected for /
them have very broad brims are set well back i
upon the head, and trimme1 with satin and i
pJmpons. Later beaver will be ia the as Il
cen1aut.
THEATRE ToILKrs
Since theatre parties came into vogue great /
deal of attention is paid 70 theatre toilets and l
many ladies arrange for them by having the 4
half worn skirt of a handsome dinner or even
ing dress mace over short, and a new velvet i
plush or brocaded jacket added which eiyes /
character and freshness, while at the ssnqe time
preserving the harmonies Of color or adding = /
contrasting color to the toilet.
Black velvet braided or embroidered with 4
gold, ruby plush. or satin, amber beading or /
silk embroidrry in colors, styles or desioos |
which would be considered a little too ne
nouDced for ordinary occasions are IL hand
some, excellent for the theatre. where almost |
anything but the shabby will pass rnuster /
Or course something depends upon the DO |
sition. Occupants Of boxes in full view Of |
the audience require to have every detail of |
tnelr dress carefully considered and may dress
as Tor an afternoon reception or an evening an
I 70 Academy Of Design, out the ordinary thea
ire goer does not occupy box but a reserved |
seat, which is somewhat narrow and ina Thich
long or much trimmed skirt Is nuisance
and encumbrance while The freshness OF a new
one would be entirely. thrown away IL IS
FE.N