Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-04-01

range up 20 one DOLLAR per yaF0. To cut these
goods mp, to bunch them, to destroy the effect
of their design Is a sin. They ought to be made
up in some simple artistic manner and leave to
the himsy cotton crepes, c. ston cheese cloths,
the gauzy nuns yelling aid other thin stuffs
which have no pattern tospoil-and none to dis
cover and take pleasure in--tfe task of forming
innumerabie small ruffles, being drawn off into
paniers and wrinkled up into the inevitable
dfapery.
THE RED BONNET.
The bonnet, or hat, whichever 1t is. has be-
come the most striking and distinctive part of
the costume. The white straws have almost
disappeared, and in their place we have reds
olives, peacock blues, old gold, and lastly Irvine
color open solid and glaze. It is strange, but
the dark red straws the old gold straws. and the
olive and bronze straws are not at all SO loud
and pronounced as one would imagine, and in
their quaint or picturesque shapes, with ostrich
feathers for trimming of the same shade, and a.
facing of velvet or satin. are wonderfully distin-
guished, especially with lightor cream colored
dresses, such as will be worn with them at gar
den parties and the like. Hats were in the first
place a protest against conventionality, and
they have maintained their independence
Young women and women who are not Young
will wear the Gainsborough hat and the esthetic
poke who enter the severest protest against any
other departure from the strictly conventional
ideas.
The large hats and bonnets are not, how
ever universal The small bonnets with crowns
of beaded or gold embroidered lace, the fronts
reappear, and there are also many bonnets cev-
cred with black or cream Spanish lace-the gar
niture cluster of richly shaded tulips or large
crushed roses.
which is feature of the modified poke, and the
genius in making and placing it Ia exhibited in
contriving that the scrawly design shall be
clearly traceable in the large loops and ends. If
one has curiosity enough to look for it.
For those who do not like the dark hats
there are some lovely light MANILA straws,
which are faced with delicate shades, shrimp
pink, straw color, and pale blue. Pale gold and
cream. straw color and pale blue, the faint
pink known as shrimp and ichen green Cthe
rich trimming. But it does injustice to color
effects now days to simply speak of crude COM
binatiOns, for shades are so toned, and so MANY
melt into one color, that the bald statement
does not represent the facts.
THE NEW PARAsOI.S
Parasols are even more pronounced than the
bonnets. They are large, they are in very high
cOlOrs, some of them, though the majority are
as ever in black cream color, or the shades of
pongee. The new features are shirred rufie.
lined and edged with deep lace, very original
sticks of natural wood. English ash, lockwood.
twisted roots, bamboo and the like, and large
mentary decoration to the center of the scarf
bow, with lace ends which ornament the top.
Nothing could be imagined more characteristic
OF the fam bOyant character of popular fashion
at the present juncture than this great spray of
artificial flowers on the top Of parasol. The
materials are MORE antique, red, and old gold,
often covered as far as the ruffie with handsome
black Spanish lace; satin, satin rhadames and
narrow clustered striped satin and MORE.
Cream-colored surah is used for summer para
Sn1o zod ont
mating with cream Spanish lace. These parasols
have very soft and pretty effect. lined with
pale pink, blue or straw color. The flowers are
buttercups and daisies shaded violets. yellow
cowslips, lilies of the valley, hedge roses, and
the like. Some large black parasols are made of
satin and lace in the same way and lined with
heliotrope, red or old gold. The flower garni-
ture may be Scotch thiStles or varegated roses.
Pongee is always used for quiet summer para
soils by very refined class of people. They are
have deep border of Spanish point lace. The
sticks are bamboo, with a twisted hoop handle.
PONGEE DRESSES.
Pongee is the one artistic material we always
possess. and there is nothing more lovely or
more useful for summer costumes. It is cool,
yet close, SO that it does not need a silk lining
beneath. as do many of our summer fabrics;
and, though pure silk, it washes like piece of
white cotton cloth. 1t is easily laid and kept in
fold, yet drapes gracefully and has GOODNESS
without the chill of linen or thin lustre silks.
and more firmness than the gauzy crepe mate
rails which in silk are so expensive as to be out
OF reach, and in cotton are uncertain and every
way detestable. a5T
For several years pongees in the piece have
been accompanied by an extra length, embrod-
cred for trimming. occasionally in q very good
design, but which greatly enhanced the price.
Quite as often, however, the choice of cOlors in
the embroidery renders it unfit for use. Shades
Of amber, of olive, of old blue, with the minut-
est touch of red, are effective and harmonize
the embroidery is executed principally On red
and warm browns the cool, resttul sentiment of
the dress is destroyed. A pretty way of
making these costumes is to put a
bottom of the skirt Across the front lay a
scant flounce of the embroidery between two
deeper, but scant and falling, puffs Of pongee
Above the upper one, and directly in front, lay
a small apron of the embroidery. and arrange
the small side paniers Of the basque, which
should be of the embroidery, so that a festooned
effect will be obtained. A fan shaped pleating
with embroidered border should be inserted in
the back OF the basque and fall over the slight,
irregular drapery, which is short, reaching only
to the top of the Killed fiounce. round
shirred collar Of the embroidery finishes the
waist at the throat.
Pongees make very cool and pretty wraps for
summer wear, and may be utilized with white
OF any OCnef dresses WITH winch the almond
tinted cloths may be worn. The simplest form
is the best. A small rounded mantelet which
obtains visite effect from strap which is
continuation of the lower part of the shoulder
piece and whose opposite end is fastened to
the sides of the back, forming with the
shoulder-piece sort of sleeve, while the back
is held to the figure without belt for the pur-
pose. A bonnet Of MANILA straw-open faced
with pale amber, blue, or shrimp pink; the
exterior trimming cream lace, shaded bronze
leaves, cowslips, cornfowers or hedge roses
should be worn with pongee dresses; but being
cool neutral and artistic material do not wear
with it beaded bOnnets or unnatural conven-
tionaliZed flowers.
SOME NEW TRAVELLING DRESSES.
Some very charming travelling costumes have
been made recently for southern trips, which
are both useful and distinguished. The dresses
are fine camel's hair or Umnitza cashmere, in
very dark myrtle green, olive or bronze cut
whole, of course; of walking length, and
trimmed with open embroidery on the material.
This open embroidery is very deep in its great
est width, but is graded suitably for scant
ruffles across the front, and to outline basque
or jacket if required. This simple Dress which
is all in one piece, is accompanied by cloak of
corah silk of the same shade as the wool, which
COmDlotefV envelOna the ncrson It ia ssMOthnr