Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-10-11
THE AUTUMN FASHIONS.
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harper's Bazaar.
The severe English styles adopted for street
toiIettes should ind favor with people Of small
means, because they dispense with elaborate
trimmings, and are Of such simple designs that
they can easily be made at home; indeed, moth
ing detracts so much from what is now con-
sidered good style as the meaningless and fussy
additions third-rate dressmakers put on street
costumes with the avowed purpose Of making
them more dressy." It is In their plainness and
their fine fit that their beauty lies, and all the out
lay of money should be put In the fabric and in
the workmanship that gives neatness Of finish.
The pure wool stuffs worn at present are within
the reach OF people Of small incomes, provided
the cost of the material is the principal expense.
instead Of being as it is too often scarcely half
as much as the price Of the trimmings and the
dressmaker's bill. For the cashmere Jersey
CLOTH camers hair, cloth-fnished flannel. and
lady's cloth suits that are worn I'm the street and
house alike. trimming is absolutely unnecessary
and. If insisted upon 1t consists at the utmost OF
some rows OF inexpensive braid, or a collar, vest
and cuffs OF velvet. The double-wdth cashmeres
costing from 81 to 81 80 yard, may be had in
all the fashionable shades Of electric blue. rifle
green, terra Gotta, condor brown, and Jet black.
Seven yards will be enough for the Dress and IL
trimming Is desired, there should be added q
half or three-fourths of a yard of velvet of the
cuffs, or perhaps for very narrow vest inserted
between the scalloped edges Of the cashmere
basque fronts. or else for covering the small but
ton-moulds that fasten the waist. and are
placed on the sleeves, and in two rows below
the waist line in the back. The basque should
be fitted very high about the neck short on the
shoulders, with low darts that make the bust
dropping and slight, and dispense with all pad
ding. The back has a short side form beginning
In the armhole on each side, and the middle
Of hn Innly 4
Flatly pressed position pleats may be added In
the middle forms If the figure requires fulness,
as this gives more finished and dressy appear
ance than closing the seams their whole length
over the tournure; the latter plan is however
very much In favor with stout ladies, and is In
keeping with the Jersey fashions. and looks par
ticularly well when there is panier sash drapery
that hides the plain edges Of the basque.
The inexperienced dressmaker is warned
against letting these simply shaped basques
have an appearance of being tight or snugly
fitted. Those made by French modistes and
London tailors are ''clear cut" following every
outline OF the figure, yet are evidently loose and
easy In every part, without COMPRISING the
figure in the least Sleeves are now made very
close to the arm, with the front half much longer
than that under the arm, and this makes the
armhole large and high, giving freedom and
comfort. cluster Of gathers at the elbow is
absolutely necessary to give the proper round
ness there, and join the full front to the palmer
uHueT-aTm gore dOlQing the top OF the sleeves
in gathers in the arm-hole is q matter of taste
and Is most becoming to very sloping shoulders
while 1t adds to the height Of square
broad shoulders, The velvet vest for such
dresses may be placed under scalops that
are corded or piped on the edge, or else
it may lap over the basque fronts in Breton
fashion. being edged merely with cord or
piping fold and Is sewed down permanently on
one side. and fastened by hooks and loops on
the other: The standing cadet collar may be
made OF the material or Of velvet, and the same
is true OF the turned-Over Byron collar The
skirt of such dress is now most often made
over cOsely-gOred foundation skirt Of alpaca,
cotton Saline, farmers satin, or OF inexpensive
SILK; the silk foundation is. however, losing
favor because it is usually of poor quality that
is not nearly 30 durable as the outside fabric
This skirt must be covered with cashmere to the
depth OF fourth Of a yard. and it may have a
narrow pleating set on it also, but this is no
longer considered necessary. The skirt breadths
of cashmere are attached to this skirt about an
eighth of yard below the belt when the drapery
Is high and in panier fashion, but for dresses
that have the round apron overskirt these
breadths may begin lower as il is only required
that they be well covered at the top.