Daily globe. [volume] (St. Paul, Minn.) 1878-1884, 1882-10-02

faH Materials-How to Put Together-An
Opportunity for the Ingenious-Cloaks
and Jackets-Millinery.
Correspondence st. Paul Globe.1
1t has come, that embroidered wave or
wave of embroidery foretold in my letter
from Saratoga. Submerged we find no es-
cape. Embroidery looks forth from bon
nets;, of embroidered costumes, enough
perhaps has been written our cloaks and
jackets come ready embroidered, while
glimpes of embroidery peep from shoes.
Great and almost fatal is the blow thus
struck at combinations of material. Fatal
indeed except where dotted or lowered
woods (chiefy in large patterns) are made
up as polanaises over plain underskirts or
where lowered founces serve as offsets to
plain over-dresses. An exception, too, must
be made in favor of gobelin tapestry woods.
New and notable, they are most truly. In
colors of olden time; in landscape pat
terms where the designer shrinks not
from representations of trees, mount
aims, castles and the like. Evidently such
ponderous simultations must be disposed
with caution; the fair one must not be
too heavily laden, and SO we shall
see the greater part of the cos
tune composed of plain camers hair,cash
mere, etc.. while as a..plastron in front or
in touches elsewhere come in the tapestry
additions. On other woods come rows of
pussys' heads, dogs faces, etc.; these must
be worn by somebody and as scarce any
body would wish to appear SO peculiarly
enveloped, we may conclude that large
part of the costume will be of plain
goods. And now the observing reader
may remark that my ''bill of exceptions
is so large as to null;fy my assertions re-
garding Combinations Nevertheless I
repeat, the signs of the times are against
themh Ordinary goods are no longer so
put together.
SELF HELP.
A word now in confidence to such of my
readers as have more ingen uity than
money. Embroider costume for your
self if you want one. Buy so many yards
of material; soutache braid to match;
have your design stamped; go to work
and in a short time, behold your costume.
Pyramidal patterns covering the front
breadth are extremely stylish with touches
for sleeves and corsage, but you may en-
broider braids of different widths, bestow-
ing them as best suited to the design
you may choose. Or if quite
skilled needlewoman, you might embroi-
der with silk in those graceful, wavy outlines
peculiar to canton Grape shawles. This
latter process, however, being much slower
than that done with soutache braiding.
There is popularity, too, in the putting
on of braid that you should note. Much
of it is run on in such way that one edge
stands off from the cloth; but again we see
much lying fiat, SO you have your choice.
Of course, too, you are wanting to know
how all these new goods are to be made.
Now, I can give you no better reply than
to advise you to send postal card to
Lord & Taylor asking for their fall cata-
logue. There you will see not only the
latest and best illustrations, but a series
of ably written articles on every depart
ment of dress.
A silken cloak is a silken cloak, and as
such must command esteem. But even
the wearer of such respected garment
will look enviously on the lady who ap-
pears enveloped in one of the new wool
redingotes, finished with soutache embroid-
cry, and opening down the front to disclose
the embroidery to match on the costume
below. None of your makeshifts or hum
buggeries here. She needs no herald to
proclaim her outfit brand new.
A saddened glance at your
silk cloak, no matter how rich and slight
exercise of those logical faculties that dis
tinguish the sex, will show you that some
body may surmise that you might have had
that cloak last winter, while that fortunate
she is above suspicion. Now if costume
may be embroidered, why not one of these
super stylish redingotes? Why not a jack
ct? A jacket undoubtedly you are quite
a young lady. For embroidered jackets of
wool are as effective silencers of gainsay-
ing rivals as redingotes could be and
grand rush will be made for them. Jaunty
and well liked too, will be velvet jackets;
giving change,and if made of nonpariel
velveteen coming within the means of
those who would hesitate to pay the cost
of velvet. A word too as to your winters
umbrella. In buying, ask for one having
the new spring acting catch for holding it
open or closed. The old wire springs, so
unsightly and liable to get out of order
are completely done away with and
undoubtedly this is the greatest improve
ment since the invention of paragon
frames.
MILLINERY.
The dove, crow, pigeon, hawk, partridge
or wild duck on your new bonnet must be
fattened out, the velvet or ribbon trim
ming made to pass over the body and un-
der the wings, while the head lies Nesting
in the back hair or sometimes looks re-
proachfully from the front. It is all in
how you do thing. How else would the
absurdity of wearing such things be pos
sible? To the rational mind it would not
be possible, but to the fashionable intellect
these concentrations will be not only pos
sible, but ''sweet." Equally sweet will be
cocks heads. plisteninp in q native fnrv