Yorkville enquirer. [volume] (Yorkville, S.C.) 1855-2006, 1882-06-01
5t}istellauepns &eadiug.
A CHAPTER ON MALE ATTIRE.

in it an ever recurring pleasure it ceases to
be trouble and consumes no more time than
to dress carelessly. The eman who buys one suit
for I'LL occasions is never well dressed and al
most invariably ''seedy" When some State
occasion compels him to get into his venerable
old dress suit, the last state of that man is
worse than the first. He feels awkward and
uncomfortable, and looks as If he had hired his
clothes from al undertaken for SO per night.
The only way to overcome this awkward feel
ing of being ''dressed up' is to frequently
change the business suit for a demi-toilet-
a half dress suit. A knowledge of what is
proper in dress, together with the habit OF con-
forming to the same, gives an appearance OF
elegance in no other way to be acquired, and is
the only way in which man can learn to appear
at his best We often hear men say, with the
air Of having conquered the seven deadly sins
in the act "Wel, buy suit of clothes, and
put 'em on and wear 'em till they are worn
Out.n One bows and smiles in the presence OF
such exalted virtue, and quietly makes note
that it were better plan to buy two suits of
clothes and wear them alternately till they
were half worn out, and then buy third.
Many men of genius, education and the high
est intellectual attainments are utterly indif-
ferent to their personal appearance, and fancy
this is very superior frame OF mind to be III,
while really it is no credit to them III the
world. To I've we'll dressed and in conformity
with the usages of good society is thousand
fold more creditable, and people who affect the
contrary are generally actuated more by Vanl-
ty than superior sense.
At this particular time browns, green's, olive
browns and greenish olives are the coming
colors. Grays have by no means passed out OF
favor, but olive and brown tints are preferred
by ,,,ho foChiOnS RptWpnn
these leading colors there are numberess in
termediate and intermingled cOlorings. There
was few years ago no medium between plain
dark goods and 'hgh fancies.' Now their
name is legion. The favOrite wOrsted diago-
mails are shown in stripes, pin checks, plaids,
square blocks, large and small, and in color
ings which combine green, brown, red, blue,
black, and olive, but so cleverly harmOnized as
to have the appearance, at little distance, OF
solid colors. The old style vale has been
changed to variety of weaves representing
the cOrkscreW and the Barathea or ribbed d.
agonal, the effect of which is excellent. The
groundwork Of most of the combination color
ings is diagonal and at distance the tlnts
blend into solid color. Tailors who follow
English styles recommend Berlin worsted or
pin checks for summer suits to take the place
of cheviots and tiannels, which look so lawful
ly ready made, you know" These wOrsted
are in finest wool, of black and white and
brown and white, alternate dots no bigger
.han pins head, which blend into one light
color and look cool and (ahem !! genteel.
This is the sort affected by young men who can
afford to pay SIS for summer suit, for ma
terial that cannot be initiated in cheap goods.
Striped trouserings are III great favor. They
come in stripes varying from the invisible to
the distinctively marked, and the former have
found much favor with conservative people.
A fancy cashmere vest, striped trousers and
dark coats are much affected by we'll dressed
New Workers. Cincinnati men incline to the
dark coat and vest ell suite and the striped
trousers. In these latter garments the change
from loose to tight is recognized by all classes,
though the extremely tight fitting trousers are
accepted by comparatively few. This fashion
of trousers differing from the rest OF the suit
is the result of the present close style, for one
coat and vest usually outlast two pair of trou-
sers, from the tendency of the latter to get
''baggy'' at the knees, a circumstance which
causes the average young man Of fashion more
uneasiness than the condition Of his bank ac-
count. We are confidentially informed by
society man, the ''set' Of whose clothes are
the envy and despair of a wide circle OF admi-
rers, that the only way to prevent their Daggl-
ness which has been a cause or anguish TO
three continents, sour Continent" and the
Eastern and Western Hemispheres generally,
is to give the trousers a little hitch at the knee
when you sit down, and under no circum-
stances to crook the pregnant hinges of the
knee too much when seated, but to leave the
neither limbs extended in a not ungraceful
fashion. Eternal vigilance is the price OF
more things than liberty, and moments for
getfulness will be fatal, for the cloth once
11ol l>1,f fln hor Of ho
knee, not all the pressing, sponging and block
inc of every tailor's goose on Vine street can
undo the mischief. You will be suspected OF
a desire to show your neat over-gaiters and
YOUR olive or cardinal Isle thread hose, and
needless people will stumble over your out
stretched limbs, but you will be sustained by
that consciousness that nerved Firginius to
strike the fatal blow, and say with him:
There is no way but this.
Much of course depends upon the material,
certain elastic cloths being quite unfit for
trouserngs, and much depends upon the cut
ter. The careful man measures from hip to
knee. and from knee to foot, and locates the
knee at the exact point. The careless man
measures the length of the leg and supposes
the knee to be .'there or thereabouts." Most
depends upon the maker, the handicraftsman
who sews the garment. He can make or mar;
if in putting the pants together he slips one
side up or down a quarter Of an inch, the
whole garment is out of balance. Naturally
but few men do this fine and careful work, and
they command their price, and the buyer must
pay it. You can have coat made by ''S5
man. or a ''12 man, The difference in the
appearance of the garments cut from the same
cloth, and made by the two men, is just the
difference between well dressed man and his
shabby neighbor Always supposing the first
coat can be afforded, the wise man has his
clothes made by a master workman.
In the cut of all coats a tendency to shorter
waists and smaller sleeves is noticeable, and
customers favor the change, especially men
who 90 in for style when it first comes out.
But these ultra fashionableS are not the men
who give best support to the business, and so
the tailors move slow, and present modltled
styles to catch the solid men. The single and
double breasted cutaway are the popular styles
for business coats, though sack coats are by
no means in disfavor. The cutaWay (Sngle
breasted four button) can be made to answer
the double purpose Of a high or low roll, but
the style continues to wear all garments
closing high. 1t is cut with narrow shoul-
der, narrow side body, short waist, long sklrt
and small sleeve. The vest is single breasted,
without collar, cut to close high, short and
staight ut bottom. The new sack coat traces
the form of the body without any loose cloth.
This close fitting body calls for close sleeve
and narrow shoulder, cut to fit without
wadding, and the more sloping it appears the
better the men like it. The fashionable length
for a man five feet eight would be about
twenty-nine Ur thirty inches. They are usu-
ally made from suitings where the coat, trous-
ers and vest are made of the same material.
| The vest is short and the trousers to OrueT.
| The edges of these coats are either braided
flat or double stitched one-quarter of an inch
| between the rows.