The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1882-05-07

borhood Of tho city. Tho tomato for example.
was IA yet unknown rs nm edible, being grown
only rs an ornamental plant In country gar
dens under tho name Of love apple. As TO
tho vino cellar OF tho City Hotel. which
enjoyed considerable reputc. il WIS but
imperfecty supplied with German and
French wines. even champagne being in
slight demand; but. on tho other hand, 1t
WAS stocked with Madeira. port and sherry of
superior quality. Tho City Hotel. it seems.
was one OF the first tavcrns in America TO defer
the dinner hour 10 three o'clock. and for u
long time 1t wns customary to spread n table
at noon for tho accommodation Of conservu-
tive diners.
OF contcmporary boarding houses only ono Is
doomed by the author worthy Of notice. that
namely, OF Miss Margaret Mann. at No. G1
Broadway rcsdcnce in which waa regarded
VIC are assured as n certificate Of respectable
ity. and for which. accordingly, young mon OF
exceptional afllucnce were willing to pay the
eXtravagant price of ono dollar per day. Az
rule. however, to board was not accounted
exactly tho thing" by the matrons OF the
period, and the lady who abandoned house
keeping for hotel or clearinghouse lie lost
caste. Eating houses were few in number and
shabby or commonplace in their appoint
by visiting one Of the cellars under Full
ton Market we may behold counterpart
of tho early efforts OF New York purvoyors.
Tho dining room of Cl1rk & Brown on Maiden
lane. ut its junction with Liberty street WAS
the resort OF such persons. chiefly foreign So
journers. ~ delighted In roast beof undcrdone.
and cut in thick slices; but this mode Of serv-
ing beef did not suit the knicknrbocker palate.
accustomed to more thoroughly cooked food.
and which preferred ma ic GRAVES to the pure
red juice.
The cafd OF the time was also a very
humble affair. Delmopico and Gucrin being
the pioneers In this branch OF industry. The
lnttor's place seems to have been rather
bur and lunch counter, than veritable res
tiurant. but the proprietor is aaid to have ac-
eumuIatel u great deal Of money. According
to the authors ,ccount tho first Dclmonico be-
gan business ON William street, between
Fulton and Ann, directly opposite tho North
Dutch church. Tho little place contained some
half dozen pine tables. with wooden chairs ia
match AMI on board counter. covered with
whito napkins. WAS ranged the limited assort-
mcnt Of pastry. Two-;ine forks and buck
handled knives. with common carthenwars
cups and plates. composed the table service. and
the filGt maccaroni coffee and petit vorre were
presented by tho DelmOnico OF the day in
person. who. with white paper cap and apron.
oflieiated as his own Garcon. But by slow
stages the courteous manners Of the host.
coupled with his delicious dishes and moderate
charges. attracted the attention. tick!ed the
palate, and suited the scantily furnished peck
cts of the Knickerbocker youths. who were at
length educated TO acknowledge the superiority
Of the French and Italian cuisine AS expounded
by Demonico.
In n chapter devoted to the manners and So
cial habits OF the epoch Mr.. Dayton tolls us
that when the population of New York city did
not exceed 2OO.OO0. society proper was by no
means so neciy differentiated rs at present
Active employment was necessity for all men
and sloth was Il bar to responsibility because it
was really in most cases Incompatible with
honesty. There were some retired men. but
only advanced age or chronic innrmity could
have forced them TO abandon an active life Tho
trade or calling Of every man was known to his
neishbors. for the mysterious ways in which
fortunes are now gained without visible con-
tinuous labor had not Doen discovered. The
city could boast of few capitalists
whose wealth was computed by hundreds
OF thousands. but the whole possessions OF q
man roputcd rich would scarcely equal the
amount which thousands now annually OK
pend in II sumptnouS mode Of living. The
more eminent representatives OF tho Church
the bar. and medicine wero regarded with q
certain special Differences, but even these did
not assume to constitute an exclusive coterie.
Tho merchant came next. but tho dividing
line between store and shop was not so
clearly drawn as it IL now nor was the status
Of tho employer sharply distinguished
from that OF tho employee. the latter being not
unfrequ"ntly an inmate and always a welcome
guest at the formers home. A fixed abode and
"A consistent unVaryiDU mod, Of liyinp
tered largely into the Knickerbocker notion OF
social dignity, and people looked with distrust
on those who did not own the houses they lived
in. or whose dwellings were mortsa.ed. deem
ing them To possess no adequate foundation
for responsibility.
Parties. even among the most affluent were
not Of frequent occurrence and stated reccp-
ton days or evenings were not needed since
| visiting had not become ceremonial. Tho invi-
! tation to spend the evening was. however, q
near approach to what would now be called u
| party. The routine Of diversion comprised. a
| dance-whieh was always tho solemn cotilIOn.
| for the waltz or any round dance was consid-
cred unchastc. even on the staEe-a SOM: or
two, "GayIy tho Troubalour" being an espe-
cial favoritc-conversation. turning on such
| topics as the last dramatic sensation in the
novels ofG. p. X. Jamcs-and finally tho hand
! ing around Of refreshments" which was
a trying ordeal for dinldcnt young
man. There was. it seems. mark
ed difference between an invitation to
| take tea" and one TO spend the evening -
| Both. indeed. signihcd that you should come
early and not stay late; that is. como about Z
and leave about 10. Neither involved the
necessity OF fun dress, though the swa,lowtail
| was 80 commonly worn that frnck coats we're
the exception, even for business. But tea WIS
an ~ Jdna' entertainment which, by contrast.
WAS informal and agreeable. On the highly
| polished mahogany table were set out the
| highly Furnished family silver urn and tea
service. surrounded by shining white and gilt
cups and saucers, basket OF silver nlisrce
work was hoaIrd with dainty cakes; cut glass
dishes lllcd with sweotmeats were nunkrd by
short cake biscuit. toast. dried beef tongue.
| and cheese" all fixed " in geOmctrcnl order.
Mr.. Dayton assures us that there has been n
vast deal of eXaggcration by the Larditorrs
~wp"r'S dHi touching the luxurious mode Of
living among the old New Workers Of IInll,n,lrr
lineage He cannot, Of course. pretend - say
that some of the legends rotating Ia tnr Dut,b