Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-12-01

~ shot tio sums allOJIeO may De maze more
or less Interchangeable. OF course nothing is
sara mere IN regard to jewelry, as girls seldom
purchase that for themselVes-and ought not
JeWelfy Is not necessity and is only valuable
When IL Is associated with a friend, a place.
or an event.
But there are two indispensable articles that
nave been omitted. and these are b0nnets and
SHOES. Inc cost Of both might be put down at
an average Of SIS, which would leave but
margin OF SIS for cuffs collars, vaseline. cara
mels, postage, cologne, society dues every girl
now belongs to a society. car fare and the
IKE. 1t Will be seen, therefore. that while s.
per week or $3.50 per year, is enough, and can
be made ample by industry and economy. it
does not admit of eXtravagant or wasteful
expenditure, and any small margin that can
De made IN giving directions will find useful
employment in others.
FULL EVENING DRESS.
The styles for elegant evening dresses this
season are very rich, and have an air Of solid
ity even when in light colors. Thin materials
are only used by young girls, and even these
sparingly and in conjunction with silk. satin,
or brOcades. The majority of the fabrics used
are solid, ottoman silk or satin being the new
est, and the trimming is lace and feathers and
Jewels-the latter used as clasps, buttons
sprays, buckles and the like, and imparting
magnificent effect to an elaborate costume.
Nothing finer can be imagined. for example
than an ottoman satin dress in the shade
known as topaz pink trimmed with neat Rus
sian or Irish point and bands Of soft ostrich
feathers, with diamonds catching the light
with every movement of the body. Cream
ana wafer green are made up in the same
way; or the front of the skirt will show
plain breadth of Powered velvet, edged with
a thick ruche Of the satin and a satin panier
dfaped diagOnally upon one side only and
Dordered with lace laid upright on the satin
above the feathers.
Beaded embroideries are not at all so indis-
crlmlnately worn as last season. The tenden-
cy Is towards the massng Of certain distinc-
tive effects. Artificial flowers have almost
disappeared ornaments. and when used
they are more frequently put on single into the
h0uOWs OF thick plating or ruching around
the edge OF a train. across the front of a skirt
or upon a lone horse panier, as the one sided
panlers are somewhat cOarsey called by irrev-
erent girls Of slangy tendencies. Pale crushed
roses and double white chrysanthemums are
the preferred flowers. Natural flowers are al
most universally used for corsage bouquets-a
charming fashion and one that ought to be
permanent-but when artificial flowers are
used at all it is clustered together and placed
high, nearly upon the shoulder. and almost
touching the throat at the left of the bodice
When beaded trimmings are used at all they
FORM the entire ornamentatlon; The front Of
the skirt VIII be 4 mass OF beaded embroidery
and paniers, or panels, bodice and sleeves
will be trimmed with a net work of white, jet
and pearls and fringe. The network of beads
over silk or satin bodice is one of the most
effective novelties of the season. 1t is used
mainly in black and white, the former made
OF small cut Jet, the latter Of white jet and
pearls. The sleeves are usually to the elbow.
and composed of the beaded network only
and fringe as a finish over the elbow But
upon one of the Langtry nights at Wallack's,
occasions distinguished for such dress
as we have been accustomed heretofore to see
only at the opera, a beautiful amber dress was
/ displayed, the front covered with amber bead
embroidery, shaded with brown. and with
brown velvet leaves outlined, and Yeined with
amber silk. The bodice was of brown velvet,
pointed at the back, the amber satin skirt
gathered to 1t. The sleeves were network
of amber beads with brown glitterng points
and there was dog-collar over the velvet at
the throat To match. In box on that same
evening a young lady wore a dress of cream
nuns yelling trimmed with quantities of cream
lace and feathers, which formed fichu and
outlined the draped paniers upon the skirt.
Her entire costume was white, her bouquet
being of white crushed roses, her fan of feath-
ers matching her dress. The chdPerOHe, pre-
sumaDly her mother, formed q magnificent
contrast to this beautiful simplicity. Her
! gown was of salmon brOcade, combined with
salmon cOOred satin covered with one deep rich
lOunce of point lace. The bodice was cut
square and trimmed with lace, the sleeves half
long, and the fan was of red feathers with
! border OF lace; corsage bouquet of red hot
I house roses. Such elaborate dress at the
theatre could only be explained by the suppo
sitiOn of immediate adjournment to ceremo-
NOUS reception; but there has been decided
attempt this winter to introduce the English
methods of no bonnets and more evening
style of dress at the theatre, with as vet not
very fortunate results. The effort may lead
/ to greater degree Of latitude, to the posi-
bility of lady appearing without a bonnet,
especially IN box, without encOuntering eye
glasses from every part of the house, or being
set down as being OF questionable reputation;
but complete change from the present neat
and simple walking or visiting dress in which
/ Ii is possible TO 20 TO the theatre to the dOwdv
and homogeneous effects gotten up by the
British matrons in London ''stalls'' is far from
/ desirable, and from it we may heartily pray
/ to be delivered.
! The short dress did not succeed in establish
! ing itself for handsome evening dresses for
/ ladies of all ages, but it is retained for young
! girls for dancing purposes, for afternoon re-
/ ceptions. and for all occasions, in short, where
/ 1T is found most convenient Many ladies re-
/ fuse to wear train in the crush of a wedding
reception or grand evening entertainment but
would not think of going in a short dress to
dinner party or even wearing one at home
I Dinners are the most formal and at the same
! time the most elegant of entertainments
/ They can only be given by those who have all
! the resources of refined social life at their
command, and therefore dress for a dinner,
where there is room for display. where the
i company Is limited to a few choice people, is
really more important than that for large
! assembage, unless the last should involve
( some special and distinguished circumstance.
EVENING DRESS AT HOME.
The fashion Of INDEPENDENT waists for half
evening dress or evening dress at home is too
convenient to be discontinued readily, and it
Is susceptible of much pretty variation and
charming effects obtained by the exercise of
the taste and little effort on the part of their
wearers. The preference this season is deci-
4 dedly in favor of the Jersey" style. which is
/ ''glOve fitting" rather deep, and shaped close
/ ~ over the hips For one young lady this
sGVle Is cut IN q delicate shade OF blue SILK ana
made up with white lace laid upon the silk
down. the front and all round the edge. Above
/ the lace there is a charming design in wild
I roses and marguerites painted in oil or water
/ cOl0rS, and this is repeated upon the sleeve at
the turn of the elbow, which is also finished
with lace. A similar design in ecru silk was
/ painted by another young lady in viOlets and
/ daisies, and still another of terra Gotta silk,
/ cut with polka tabs, contained in each one
small cOnventiOnalized sunflOwer. One of the
artists in the cases mentioned recommended
! salmon colOred silk with tabs decorated with
! small scarlet peoples, and further states it as
/ an excellent plan in using oil paints to squeeze
the tubes out on blotting paper which absorbs
I the oil and prevents much of the danger of
I spelling the silk,
/ Fans are usually painted and trimmed to
match these waists, and are then suspended
! from the sides by ribbon loops. Some young
/ ladies also add pouches or paint pouches in
stead of fans, and some prefer embroidery to
painting and put il upon velvet instead of silk.
! \ wine colOred velvet waist was recently
made and embroidered with feathery grass
( upon which small, yellow. butterflies were
I alight, and in which were mingled tiny pink
/ tipped daisies Square cut velvet basques also
! look well without either painting or emDrold-
cry when trimmed with Irish point, which is
/ laid fiat and upright upon the edge of the
basque. Past a certain age there is a want of
dignity and fitness in the somewhat fanciful
effect Of a contrasting bodice, but for young
girls, and a means of utilizing half-WOrn
skirts Of light, delicate materials there is no
more suitable or effective method, while they
also assist in providing the essential variety at
small expense.
CHRISTMAS AND TWELFTH NIGHT PARTIES.
There are to be many Christmas and Twelfth
night entertainments this season, Ostensibly for
children. but in which older people are quite
as much interested, for the children are simply
the principal medium of interest and enter
tainment-lay figures, through which to con-
Yey picturesque ideas. The role of the children
nowadays Is by means to sit in corner
and say nothing. They are made part and
parcel of social life, and they take to their
parts as naturally as if they had been bred to
them through all the centuries-the girls with
even more freedom and grace and quickness
than the boys. Their appearance has changed,
mother in miniature hiding the timid ignO-
exaggerated simplicity and quaintness of cos
tune covering the knowing ways and assured
self possession of the little man or woman.
Properly the entertainments projected should
be called costume parties. They are English
in their origin. and owe their growth and sue
I cess to the development of the aesthetic idea
( which, whether favored or not by men and
women. blossoms out almost universally among
the children. the mothers gladly arranging
their daughters in the quaint old fashions and
curious contrasts in color which they dare not
| ALWAYS assume for themselves. Even the most
conventional are appealed to from the histori-
cal and picturesque point of view, and find an
assemblage of children. brightly intelligent
and recalling memories or traditions of the
past and its WAYS the most delightful of pas
times 1t is possible that the idea may take
more serious form, for it is capable of useful
development. The whole history of dress-its
growth, its periods of high refinement and
decay, of eXaggeration and reaction-might