Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-09-09
FASHION WRINKLES.

SHORT dresses viii be worn this fail almost
universally For ceremOnious occasions the
train skirt is preferred.
SAILOR HATS. trimmed with wide band of
ribbon. with some upright loops at one side. are
the latest revival for young ladies' wear.
NARROW braid. In silver or gold. is much used
for trimming cloth dresses of a monochrome
colo. Ever little of this garnture goes a
great way i'm effect.
DARK gloves will ne AL the rage 10: Sep
tember wear Brown. very clear and rich in
finish dark green. red taa and blue are the
shades for favor in the lines of glOTes and
hosery.
THERE IS a new way to mark handkerchefs.
The name is marked Iensthwise end OF
the hemstitcIed corner. with the letters placed
one above tine other. eEtwiDed like the rings of
chain.
PLAIN VELVET DRESSES are favOfed. The
model is close fitting. the sleeves tight. giving
the arm proportions and in consideration of
this fact thin arms are made to look round
and handsomely shaped by the dressmakers'
art.
LARGE QUANTITIES Of velvet are imported for
suits and wraps. and revival of velvet cloaks
Is an accepted fact for the coming winter. Vel
vet. both plain and br0caded. is more elegant
fabric this season than plush
THE most elegant silk stockings have medal
lions set in the instep with silk embroidery
thread lace White hose or white and delicate
evening cOiored hose have mcdaoas and stripes
In real Valencenaes set in the instep.
LADIES who have small stawls of French or
Spanish lace can utilize them as lehus By gath
er;no them up slightly upon the shoulders and
at the back. across the waist-linc and betting
them i'll over the points. front and back. The
larger lace points can be used in the same
way-bT gathering up more of the depth into
the fitness upon the shoulders.
HLF-IGH BODICES are coming rapidly into
favor for evening wear. They are cut away
about three inches from the neck all around and
are usually worn with lace, ortranspareIlt beaded
sleeves. which reach to the gloves that unite
cover the elbows. tan-colOred mousquetaire
gloves continuing still TO be the height of styIe
The REIGN of embroidery has only begun so
all authorities agree. Flannels cashmeres.
silks. crepes de Chime all fine fabrics. in fact.
come with embroidery wrought on the material
fer trimming. the borders varying in depth with
the price of the robe Paris letters are eloquent
over toilets wrought by hand or loom III eXqui-
site embroidery.
THE MoST ELEGANT COLLARS are of sheer
linen in straight band. with pattern of
drawn-wOrk near one edge and Venetian lace
turned up on the other edge Where the ends
meet In front the lac is gathered very full and
tied by narrow iyory-whte satin ribbon that
gives the effect of lacebOw. There are straight
lfnen cufs also. with Il tied lace bow to be worn
outside the sleeves.
Two COLO2s are especially popular for Scotch
gingham dresses. viz, very pale blue with
white Hamburg embroidery for trimming and
the quaint dark red shade that is called
"crushe3 strawberry" with ecru Irish point
embroidery. These dresses are very simply
made. as they are 10 be iaundried often so that
they may he always fresh. and their dressy
look is given by the SNOWY embroidery used
upon them
The NEWEST FASHION in Paris-that of wear
In black underclothing-ha become the Juror
amongst the women Of the highest aristocracy
The undergarments. like those OF the eastern
cdalisqueS. are composed usually of silk. gen
erallv OF what is called fOulari DIES Indies From
neal TO foot the Partisan lady appears when di-
vested 0i The outer robe. as Just emerging from
IN ink bath-the stockings OF black silk the slip
pers of black velvet. the cOrsets OF black satin
adorned with black lace. and the petticoats of
black surah. filled around the bottom with
sslh mousse of black Illusion or net.
AUTUMN travelling dresses of fine wOolens In
narrow hair stripes, small checks and soft
hlendings of color are very co8,Jae IL fa,d
trimmed with a multitude of small buttons
either round or flat in shape. mOther-of-pearl
being n fayOrite variety. The very fashionable
''gold-intersected' fabrics are further BRIGHT
ened by many gold buttons these forming the
sole trimming. three rows of them being placed
down the front of the dress. and set very close
together Wide striped woolens i'm rich Orjen-
tai coloringS. also take high rank in the present
fashions. all houses in the city having Il remark
able choice of them. They are as fashionable i'm
silk as in other materials. the difference only
being that the silks are in delicate shades the
wooens in dar ker, richer tones.
NEW PARTISAN CORSAGEs show the fronts Of
the basque continued into long panels, which
reach nearly to the foot OF the underskirt This
Is favOrite style at present. a handsome
model made in this way has an underskirt of
royal blu" satin sublime. covered with tiny ruf-
Hes OF the same The cOrsage of royal blue vel
vet has the long panel fronts embroidered with
shaded silks of deeper hue than the velvet In
the back the corsage is cut into vandykes un-
derneath which is set a Louis XIV scarf with
loops and sagginG puffs- This scarf is OF the
satin also embroidered These corsapes are
extremely elegant when made of pale tinted
satins for evening wear over skirts OF lace or
velvet
AMONG the most favored hats are the "Giron-
din shapes. They have straight brms and
rather high crowns. The trimmings consist of
several rows OF ribbon velvet taken around the
crown. and ostrich p.umcs. There Is an occa-
t'onai variation In the shape of these hats Some
Fave narrow brims. in which case there is a
bunch OF plumes on the left side. II the brim is
OToad long amaZOne plume is used Great
partially Is shown this year in Paris for fine
gray straw hats. raised on the sides All the
trimmings Tor these are in the shade of the
straw The brlm is lined with velvet Around
The crown Is long g0Uze Veil which Ia lonr
e.i'u-H ~ tt Idht0 afOulI. The neck. Even the
pigeon i steei gray: il is placed near the edge
o. The brm 81 the hat among the gauZe folds
Ali kids Ui birds are to trim autumn bonnets
Among the plats IN draperies are to be nests OF
Gin! birds with plunage of every color The
larger birds include doves, pigeons parouuets.
AMI phei>ants.
THE COLOR nOst popular at the moment In
Paris is myrtle green, shade which almost
yersyes on the blue of marine green 1t will
rrnbao.y be the most popular color here this fall
anc winter. An immense proportion of green
CLOTHS n all The dark shades have been imported
Garret IL bright cciIrs-so bright as to be called
frfI,;'@'s' In the Frencl; list Of coors--wiI ne
chosen 10y !a'ii"S whose pale or saIiOw complexion
Lenders -T"cE an unbecUming color Olive. prrne.
br0iZe, SEAL plum navy blue hussar q dark
Shade y; cadet blue. and electric a l!gnt shade
OF TIE sane c".or. are all stylish coIors Even
the cHeGuth old elephant which Mr. Barnum
eas so successfully transported and advertised
gI'ee MS nane to a new color. Jumbo brown
EInddy Noise shade. is so named from the
uncseany looking hide OF the huge elephant
There are also Ina::y snuT browns and nl,mber