The Evening critic., 1882-01-28
Nnr Snrscr American wines.


who tried to sell him wine made in Amer
lea, but failed. Tho idea that wine of
home manufacture was fit for n connOisseur
was then considered huge joke, and the
merchant and his friends had hearty
laugh over it, To-day the same gentleman
is among tho largest purchasers Of native
wines in the country. This is a fair OK
ample Of the change which has been
wrought in public opinion in regard TO
what is already an important branch Of in
dustry by the energy and perseverance of a
few men.
1t is only lately that tho wines produced
in this country have, to any extent, taken
position of rivalry with Spanish, German
and French wines.
California has taken rank as wine
growing region, and New jersey has proved
her ability TO produce grapes equal in char
actcr TO Portugal, not only the lighter
wines, but port sherry and claret are being
produced there fully equal to any imported
in body, color and bouquet. In fact, the
port is superior in body and medicinal
virtues.
At Passaic and Vineland, New Jersey,
the cultivation Of the grape has attracted
considerable attention for some years, and
at these points, as well rs on the mountain
slopes, and at several points on the Hudson
River, there are extensive vineyards, many
of which are owned or controlled by Alfred
Speer who, from small beginning, and in
spite of obstacles of no ordinary kind, has
attained great success as wine grower His
Mount Prospect Vineyards at Passaic, and
vineyards at other places, comprise from
fifty to one hundred acres, on which are
raised vines of different varieties-some of
the most difficult to bring to maturity.
Among them is the imported Oporto grape,
from which is made the Port grape wine,
which rivals in every quality the Spanish
Port As may be supposed, the utmost care
and unceasing attention during ten years
of costly experiments were necessary to
bring the Oporto grape to bearing point,
in which time thousands of vines sickcned
and died during our winters and springs.
A few, however, survived, and they, af-
ter eight and ten years nursing, at last
became hardy, and formed the stock from
which vigorous layers were made for propa-
eating. The vines thus obtained have now
become acclimated and thrive well; having
passed all the vicissitudes of our climate
they become healthy, vigorous and prolific
bearers. The grapes are allowed to hang
until October, when they become dead
ripe" They are then gathered and put in
the wine press, whence the juice is con-
veyed in pipes to watts, where it is allowed
to remain until fermentation sets in. Uf
| it is intended to manufacture red wine, the
| skins and pulp are allowed to remain in
| the must" but these are removed ifwhite
| wine is desired). The juice is soon raclled
| off, into barrels and slowed away in an
| other building the date being marked on
each barrel. After successive "rackings,"
to give proper "fineness," the barrels are
removed to an inside cellar, where the tenn
| perature is always the same. Here they
remain until the wines are from three to
five years old, which is the necessary age.
The average production of the vineyards
controlled by Mr.. Speer are about sixty
two thousand gallons year.
Mr.. Speer has devoted over thirty years
to the study of vinus fermentation. He
fist commenced in small way by making
fruit wines from currants and berries, and
soon became interested, by advancing large
capital, in the planting of vineyards on the
Hudson River and in California, and af-
terward at Passac New Jersey, where he
| has expended thousands of dollars in the
experimenting on the cultivation of foreign
wine grapes and in the employment of the
| most skilled wine growers of Europe. Mr..
| Speer was the first in this country who ex-
| tensively advertised American wines.
So rapidly has the demand for his Bur-
| gundy and Socialite Ga claret) and Port
| Grape wine of New Jersey production in
creased that it was found necessary to
enlarge the cellarage and storage accommo-
dations, and q fine three-story building
100 feet front, has been erected, having
underneath several deep cellars-one within
another-where any degree OF temperature
can be steadily maintained. A number O.
other buildings adjacent are also occupied
in connection with the business. The Port
Grape wine is handled with the greatest
care during four years of slow fermenta'
tion and ripening, and is considered by
Europeans as superior to Spanish Port.
The grapes when brought from the vine
yards are carefully selected and removed
from the stems, and passed through roller;
that break the skins. From this mill they
are thrown into large watts, and allowed to
fcrment few days before pressing. Thus
the high color and astringency are obtained
together with the rich heavy body fol
which this wine is noted. After being
pressed the "must" is run into casks, au(
placed where it can finish its fermentation
and remain undisturbed until carly th
next spring, when it is drawn Off into othe
casks and removed to buildings of differ
ent temperature. Here it remains 81;
months, when it is again racked off, ant
removed to still another temperature. Thi
treatment is kept up for four years, unit
all the nitrogenous matter or yeast princi
pie is pIecipitated, and separated from th
wine.
Thus it becomes perfect and will keep il
any climate. The wine is pleasant, rich
has fine flavor, and as family and tabl
wine its use is particularly beneficial. S
successful has the experiment proved, tina
it is safe to predict that in few years tn
banks of the Passaic and the eastern slop
of the Blue Ridge will be covered for mile
with vines. His Port Grape wines hav
| acquired worldwide reputation anon
physicians, and are used in hospitals as tn
best wine for medical purposes, and largel
used by churches for communion. Thor
sandsof families and aged people claim the
presentexistence to the use Of this wine.-
NeD York EueniRg Post.