Morning journal and courier., 1882-10-20

1 through tQ9 winter. lue pT5IIieSt hiiOnS l these have small checks. A most elegant 1 com mbination for toilet consists of two long
 ends falling down the front of the skirt, with | buttons and buttonholes as on redlngote. | These ends open over 8 fan, shaped satin
 plating. The panel-shaped trimmings are of delicate shade of lavender colored velvet
 combined with pale shade of green, almost
 gray. The satin fan shaped trimming is
 plain lavender. Two satin puffings in the
 same color form paniers. Tho lower part of | the back of the skirt consists of a fiat band of velvet. Surrounding the skirt are three founces of ruched satin. Above the founces
 in the back are two puffed ends. The laven-
 der satin waist opens over @ gathered velvet vest, with three pieces of goods in the shape of taken across. Most full dress toilets
 are in two different fabrics and in contrasting
 colors. Very odd and curious effects are thus obtained.
 There have been many variations of 1 late in the shapes of aprons and skirts that | it is difficult to describe anything that is | absolutely new. The soft winter fabrics
 must supply the deficiency and be so skill
 fully draped as to give an appearance of novelty. Many oversk1rts are perfectly flat and cut out on the borders over the deep full 1 trimmings on the lower parts of the skirts
 Renaissance farthingals paniers are not as often trimmed on the borders as they
 raised under rich applique passsmenterie ornaments, with tags and laces Bridal toi- lets have small paniers of soft faille or otto
 man velvet, raised under white jet applique work in designs of lilies orange blossoms, roses The dresses may be of white 'pekine' velvet, with gros grain skirts Over ottoman velvet skirts with long trains these small paniers with passementerie ornaments are detached from the dress, and can be used with other dresses. This same arrangement is made for visiting and evening toilets. Black suits retain their hold favor, from the plain costumes of cloth and cachemire to the rich fancy velvet and satin dresses, the latter enriched with jet-work chenille lace
 All the novel combinations are in plaid goods Three are suits for morning and after noon walking purposes of plaid, we'll as in- door and full dress toilets. If this style of suit does not gain general favor during the winter it will not be for want of variety in the make, color and arrangement of the plaids.
 A pretty combination for morning out door wear is of plaid tartan with a skirt consisting of deep hollow plating extend ing all the way up the skirt, divided through about the centre by stitching made on the inside of the skirt as for 8 shirring. This whole arrangement is on false skirt A drapery IS taken from the sides drawn to- gsther and fastened to the middle of the skirt. The back is draped. The jacket is of lark green cloth. It opens in the neck in sha Il shape, The back and side pieces of the back form two hollow plats with inserted plaitings the sides. The collar is in shawl shape. Tho sleeves are long and tight. The whole jacket is bordered with stitching The felt turban worn with this suit has a brim bound with 8 bias band of velvet. The crown is partly covered with a surah drapery. In the back are several ostrich tips. suit for indoor wear, also of Scotch plaid tartan is trimmed with garnet-colored velvet The false skirt has two deep plaitings-one of plaid goods, the other of velvet On the lower border is narrow velvet plating Che tartan" panier is plaited and draped to the back, where there are outings. The pointed waist opens in front in shawl shape, and has small velvet collar and revers Un- der the open part of the neck is small vest of red surah. The back of the waist is tail
 leur shape with posi on basque. The sleeves have velvet cuffs
 Many pointed aprons are made with plaid suits. They are diagonally draped across either to the right or left. On the draped side is a quile trimming, which consists either of outings divided by crosswise plaits | or of fine plaitings of plain goods in three colors of the check. The trimming may also consist of faille butterfly bows. Gros grain ! faille ribbon is again in use, and will be gen erally employed for winter suits Woolen and cachemire suits have cloth habits. They ! are not the jackets destined for wear with all dresses, as they correspond in color with the suit. For silk toilets more costly garments 1 are employed, such as redingotes in black or seal colored plush, or of gros grain silk. For l l black, but rich winter pelisses, intended for 1 wear during several seasons, generally | black Beautiful plaid surah suits are of 1 glazed ''surah croises," trimmed either with l bias bands of pekin velvet, or with plain velvet worked in fine soutache designs with silk and bead metal threads. These trim mings serve for walking suits, while for evening and reception toilets colored Gen 1 oese Spanish lace used. Long winter
 confections are of gros grain silk, with plush and velvet flowers in relief. In the back ! they are taken in to the figure. The trim mipgs are passementerie applique work and cordings with tags. Many very elegant gar ments of this kind are to be seen in Parsian ! bridal trousseaus, trimmed with feather gal | loon and chenille fur, which are as handsome ' as fur. The bands are very broad. Outer l garments are as varied as dresses. A we'll l stocked trousseau contains quite collection ! of these garments ranging from the small | cheviot cloak plaited "a pEcossais' to the 1 large 'levite" of fawn, colored cloth, includ- l ing a carriage cloak and the rich confection
 described above. Fur trimmings are on gros 1 grain matelasse or plush garments.
 The usual variety of fchus for evening 1 wear are to be seen in the Parisian shops. l One of the most useful and easiest models to | make is fichu consisting of aplaited drapery l of tulle "mousseline de Pinde" trimmed
 with handsome lace. It may be used over | au open waist, either square in shawl l shape. On the left side is a spray of flow l CTS. muslin fchu combines lengthwise 1 outings with lace insertions placed cross- | wise On the border of the fichu, about | half way down the waist, is piece of rather deep lace. It is drawn Tn at the waist by a I band of insertion, and the end is bordered
 with laoe The corresponding cuffs are
 puffed crosswise through the centre with ! bands of insertion taken across all around at
 regular intervals. They have lace on either side. A surah tichu consists of a plaited
 piece down the front, this same piece form ing an end Two pieces of insertion, one on
 the waist and the other below, are drawn
 around the plating like rings The fichu is
 bordered with Venetian point lace. On the
 side of the end is red velvet butterfly bow.
 A similar bow is on the shoulder, The small
 straight collar is of Venetian point lace. The
 cuffs matching the fchu are plaited and
 trimmed on either side with lace. On the
 outside of the cuff is red velvet bow. An
 1 tque embroidery and lace are used for all
 | purposes. Point de Venise," or de Ienes, '
 are very effective over bright colors. Old
 fans and antique jewels of all kinds arc much
 sought after.
 An Anne d'Autriche" colerette, suitable
 for wear over 8 matinee, consists of two
 | deep plaited ruffies Of ''mousseline de soie,
 supported by a lace pelerine Batists
 I ''Froudeurs'' collars have two points in front ) and are bordered with lace applique against ; the batiste. Front pieces for wear witt matinees are of batiste, crape or mousselint de soie made iu large falling outings
 A deshablle may be of light blue surat and white silk gauge The surah skirt hal in the back a very fine deep plating. IT front is an apron of deep outings, witf } shirrngs across drawn together by narrow ! blue satin ribbon. The lower part of thu frost forms deep founce bordered witl ) lace The apron is surrounded by double
 shell shaped lace trimming This garment [ may open over Q Moliere chemise of puffet r and shirrsd gaze de soie. On the left side , below the waist, and on the neck are loops of narrow satin ribbon. The sleeves ar, , tight to the elbow and from that point forn a large gaze de soie puffing Below is deel
 piece of lace.
 Englishwomen have taken great fancy t. the Greenaway styles for their children r This fashion derives it's name from the au r thoress of a number of charming design which creating perfect furore in Lon 2 nh,,INh