Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-03-01
ESTABLISHED 1850.

successful and priced the work The best way
to use these stuffs is to make of them sleeves
irregularly but is not cut. Machine
embroideries may be cut up for cuffs.
collars and mountings of various kinds, but
hand embroidery should be treated more
kindly and with greater respect. Embroidered
sleeves give great distinction to dinner or In
door dress, but of course the style of drapery
would only suit simple classical design, not
one that was much cut up or 'fuSsy." EN-
bro1derieS for bordering reproduce in the ma
chine made patterns the old needle work and
solid flannel patterns. The lace and needle
work designs di play the scallops, the eyelets,
the tiny wheels, the stars. the square lattice
and other well known and pretty devices
roses conventjonalized, shaded leaves daisies,
buttercups and other small flowers, including
these are executed In natural colors. but
with the stiffness inseparable from the
regulation border. Still many of them
are very handsome and effective. The
rect. and the natural leaves accompany each
flower This Is point failure on which would
be considered shocking in these days when art
has progressed so far as to have given us some
idea of nature, but it was not by any means so
certain to be the case few years ago, for
work must follow pattern, not nature, nature
being considered an uncivilzed object whom it
was not respectful to copy faithfully. AS for
the noun ing Of artificial flowers, beyond
general idea that the big leaves were to be put
with the big flowers and the little leaves with
the little ones. there was little care for the
strange unions effected, Reranium leaves being
as often put into juxtaposition with roses as
those which truly belonged to them.
The ''Judic" robe, with deep pointed bodice
and panniers draped away from a skirt pulled
and fiounced is one of the best Of the popular
importations of the season in embroidered cos
tunes, the fine dark and light tones of the
SOFT lovely cloth showing to advantage the col
ors or the embroidery, which are varied and
brilliant, but are well blended and harmonious
ly combined.
In open work patterns, the dark bronze and
olive shades in self colors, are most admired
and they are also very handsome in black and
almond tintS.
Upon fine wool and silk grenadine the en-
broi iery represents the most exquisite lace
patterns, and is often executed In white or
tinted white. The needlework patterns upon
batiste are also many of them very beautiful,
and furnish most charming garniture. The
prettiest thin dresses worn this coming season
for garden entertainments will be of light tuff
and pale blue batiste, silk muslin and nuns
yelling, with the deep ruffies and bands of ex-
quisite open work embroidery in the self color,
in jardiniere colors. and In white.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There is a revival of white upon black this
season. which gives us many of the effects and
combinations that were common twenty-five
years ago. The white embroideries upon black
have been preceded by the panier draperies OF
white lace upon black satin and black satin
mervaleux, many ladies utilizing founces in
this way that had formerly cut off the
bottom Of the dress. Bellies, too, who like TO
create sensation, have been wearing with
stockings, clocked with tan brown
and red, and black sandalled shoes
This innovation is not likely, however, to
obtain to any great extent for the depth of dye
In the black gloves makes them stiff and liable
to leave traces on delicate fabrics, while of all
gloves they are the least pleasant to wear
their one virtue being durability. One result
of the revival will be that small black visites
and black lace capes and mantles will be worn
this summer over white and light lawn and
muslin dresses and that split and Dunstable
straw bonnets will reappear, trimmed with
black embroidered lace or ribbon and flowers
THE NEW BoNNETs
are large. for which we should all be thankful
The nearest approach is the "London," which
appeared last fall in imported felts under
another name. 1t has high pointed crown
and wide brim, which flares and rounds up
to one side. 1t can only be trimmed with
feathers and these ought to be in profusion
and of the ostrich variety. A bronze straw,
for example, of the London shape. Is faced
deeply with primrose satin, finished toward
the edge with velvet of the color of the straw,
pUffed over end forming border to the brim.
One very long and wide full feather is placed
at the left high upon the exterior Of the brim
and carried round, the end curling over at the
back. Three others form cluster upon the
left side, two curling over towards the 'front.'
and one being of the primrose shade, while the
rest are Of the bronze, unless the bronze in all
Other straw shapes reproduce less of the old
Dutch character and more OF what Is known as
the "Gipsy" bonnet. The difficulty in regard
to the latter is that it cannot be made to look
''dreSsy, " that is to say, elegant; whatever its
materials may be, it always retains flavor of
the sun bonnet, from which it seems to have
grown.
Straws appear in all colors, but there are
modified pokes in black or white. which are
faced with velvet, the edges finished with an
exquisite silk and gold BRAID and the exterior
with scarfS of embroidered silk muslin and a
bouquet of mustard in flower, of oats and
small red poppies or hedge roses shat are
handsome and suited to all occasions for
which a summer bonnet is required The
colore straws are in demand, but except with
brown suits which seem to require hats
or bonnets In quiet accord with their
subdued tone. they will be selected with
out much reference to ANYTHING more than
an absolute sltion very different from con-
trast) to the color of the dress with which they
are worn. Very dark red straws may he worn
with bronze; black with white or buff; dark
green with white and old gold trimmed with
black
Old Dutch ideas seem to have been drawn
upon largely to supply this seasons millinery
for we have soft cap with ruffled brim that is
an exact copy of an head dress in Dutch pic
lures. The ruff1e does not lie fiat as that Of the
Charlotte Cordsy cap, but frames the face and
is lined with color. The crowns are EN-
broidered or covered with an embroidered
tissue. The trimming is a light wreath of
berries or flowers.
EsTHETIc IDEAS,
though they cannot be said to dominate. large
Iy influence fashion. Conventional fashion,
the fashion of the ordinary French miIliner
and DIRE smaker, is Of course opposed to them.
They interfere with the traditional confidence
reposed In such authorities They teach peo-
pie, and women more especially, TO think for
themselves, they get rid of starch, OF what is
artificial. They will not permit beautiful fab
rics to be cut up into patchwork, and they
constantly adVOpQfn nf hat 10 frFyao and
good in material, and the announcement of
design based upon correct principles in art
Women have usually been credited with being
the -conservators and worshipers of con-
ventional forms; but this seems to be a mis-.
take, one of the many that men wilfully make
IN regard TO women. 1t was men
who hunted and lampooned the
Bloomer sisterhood; it is men who
have abused and lampooned Mr.. Oscar Wilde.
in both cases for divergence on account of
dress. Within their limits men follow their
regulation laws with strictness unknown to
women, and dare not depart from them so
much as hairsbreadth. Every one must wear
white neck ties, or every one black: every one
gloves or no gloves at all: the black frock coat
may be worn up to the very moment the gas is
lighted, but then it must vanish like Cinderella
and its place be taken by the swallow tail One
of the points of male attire is the narrow or
broad expanse of shirt bosom, and who would
be seen displaying the one when the other was
demanded by fashion? Women are criticised
for throwing away questionable gar
ments. Pity they did not! On the con-
trary, they wear themselves out making
them over, while men accumulate in close Is
and bureau drawers vests ties caps and coats
a multitude that have become unwearable be-
cause lacking quarter Of an inch, or possess
ing that too much. The fact Is we do not gain
much by narrowing the boundaries of fashion
The smaller the domain the more rigid the
authority and the more tYrannical the despot
1t is in minor details that the prevalence of
aesthetic ideas is most widely seen, In the re.
vival of simple antique forms the cultivation
of hand work. the stimulus given to pure fabric
their constant improvement and the discredit
thrown upon treacherous and fiimsy mixtures
They have also taught or are teaching the pub
lie something in regard to design and where
to go to fiud the best models. Decoration has
been transfof med and it cannot fail to have
permanent effect upon the dress OF women in
the future, for art requires that women who
are so essential to 1t shall, so far as they can,
illustrate it.
In larger way the aesthetic idea supplies an
everlasting source of suggestion and inspira-
ton Tor all those exceptional occasions which
suggest a departure from the conventional
such as weddings anniversaries and the like
Is there not wonderful fascination about the
"earlY English?" Certainly Kate Greenaway
and her followers have found their profit by it.
nality and call it crime. We talk about origf-
nall y in fashion, or rather novelty" for
which there is a perpetual demand but in
reality fhe novelty Is little teeter back and
forth. like children on sees saw. It is up and
down little more or little less; but never a
new departure or really original idea in the
interests OF the permanently needful and beau
tiful
STREET COATS AND BAsoUEs
The spring walking costume par excellence
consists of a walking skirt and coat with tails.
the latter turned back and faced with silk or
satin merveilleux. The skirt may be killed or
trimmed Win kllted MOVERS, or pulled above
one or more fOunces; but it is usually of a
solid color and Of fine wool. satin merveil-