Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-12-19
Gossip About EmbrolderieS.
FASHIONABLE MATERIALS AND STITCHES.

FASHIONABLE MATERIALS AND STITCHES.
IRON the New York Times.
SO many materials are used as the foundation
for fashionable embroideries that some clue to
them and the stitches used in connection with
them is valuable
Embroidery on The Stanlp-(is also called raised
embroidery)-In work of this kind the figures
are raised in high relief from their backgrounds
by means Of pads formed Of wool or hair, over
which the embroidery is worked. The figure is
first outlined on the groundwork, and then
stuffed with thick white or colored silk or satin.
over this most elaborate stitches are worked.
Embroidery Chip-The foundation of this
work is made of finely plated straw or PUSHES.
SO closely woven that they have the appearance
OF Java canvas, and are much used for mats to
keep heat from furniture. The embroidery is
executed in bright -colorcd silks, and the design
and stitches are equally simple. For instance
for q mat with four corners a central star of "a
points would be worked in three shades OF
bri@ht-coiored silk, and where the points meet
in the center one crGSS-Stitch in northumberland
silks should he worked. corn-fower in one
corner could be carried out in blues and green's
the blossoms in pcOt-stitct. the leaves in satin
and the stem in crewel-s+itch In another q
rose-spray in natural color and greens, the buds
IN poet and satin stitch. the leaves in SATIN and
the stems in crewelstitch. In the third pansies
could be executed in silks of the natural color
and in the fourth spray of forget-me-nots. the
buds in French knots, and the leaves in satin
stitch. would form an admirable contrast
Embroidery upon Ledtter-The finest kid is
usually chosen for this work, and the patterns
are the same as for embroidery in satn-stitcl
The design is traced upon the material and
small holes pricked with stilettO for the needle
to pass through: but occasionally such materials
can be bought ready for working. The design
must be carried out in satin-stitch in colored
flosclles, and when the work is finished the
leather must be pasted upon thin linen to keep
1t from splitting. Fashionable gloves with
gauntlets are embroidered in this. way in mono
grams. crests and fanciful designs
Embroidery on Nusiia-Is fine close kind of
white embroidery carried out upon fine cambria
or muslin with white embroidery cotton The
design is first traced upon thick drawing-paper
and pricked out with pins. then laid upon the
muslin. and powdered blue rubbed through the
holes leaves the perfect impress Of the design
on the material. This is then carefully run with
thread of embroidery cotton. The stems in
any such design are worked in rope-stitch the
leaves with the veins left unworked in point de
plume. and the rest in flat sstin-stitch. while
flowers are worked independently in satin-stitch.
with centers of French knots and the outer
leaves are executed in point de pois and finished
with bGttOnhOle stitch.
En,brOide,y on SW-Is executed in any of the
usual embroidery stitches. but satin. feather
crewel and French knots are the most effective
beautiful re ult is obtained by tracing a de-
sign OF corn flowers and pOppies uDOn a back
ground OF deep olive or maroon silk, and en-
broidering them in their natural cOlors To do
this well frame must be used. and the eff
feet will be heightened if gold braid is used in
combination with toselIeS. The natural colOrs
OF the flowers will harmonic well with it. and
the leaves in various shades Of olive green
should be rendered in satin stitch the tendrls
In feather stitch. and the stems in crewe stitch
Designs of corn flowers, poppies and wheat
ears can be easily obtained. The wheat should
be carried out in satin stitch in pale yellow
c0lOrs.
Embroidery on Teycet-The finest embroidery
upon velvet is applique work. The pattern is
cut out in the material, which has first been
backed with coarse linen and stretched on
frame. The designs or patterns Thus cut out
are pasted upon silk foundation. and are out
lined by laying two lines of gold thread or purse
silk around the edges. and securing them as in
cOnchln@. while such stems and tendrils as may
De incladed IN them are worked in gold bullion.
the center of the flowers and buds being in
French knot made in silks or f!oselle while the
veins of the leaves and other portions Of the de-
si@n are long satin-stitch in tiIoselle or floss
silks
Embroidery in God ard Si7rer-Is not very
satisfactory. as it soon furnishes: still. it is
often used in fashionable work for table-bOr-
ders, chair-strips. ard lembrequus. TO work
we'll in such material the foundation. which
should be of velvet, is stretched on a frame
ana the design is drawn upon it in white
chalk Little pieces of parchment are needed
to fill up the raised portions. and are basted
into the required positions. A stilctto is
needed to make small holes in the material
through which the gold ard silver thread can
be passed. and a large-eyed needle is necessary
for conveying it. and the stitches are passed
over the padding which has been already ar
ranged in position. 1t is extremely difficult to
work in bullion; the least moisture in the hands
of the worker furnishes the gold. and the work
q fnnftv md fhna
will be spoiled.
Ba,r'e,a Sitch-Is fiat conching used in silk
embro!deries. and is worked by laying down
line of floss silk or foselle. to secure which a
thread is brought up from the back of the ma
terial on one side the filOsele and put back on
the other The stitches that secure the tiO-
selle should be at perfectly even distances.