Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1882-09-01
Propagatlng by Budding.

When fine variety OF fruit or flower
has been obtained, IL is desirable that IL
should be preserved and disseminated.
Sometimes this can be done by planting
tho seed, but oftener the tree raised
from seed will more nearly resemble the
original stock of which the good variety
is an offspring and improvement. Va
rious methods of propagation having in
view the desired result are used, such rs
by cuttings, layers, suckers, dividing
roots, grating and budding. OF all
these the last is often found to be the
best. The process consists in affixing o
bud of one tree or plant in the stem of
another in such a way that it will grow
into and become part of the stem, and
ut the same time continue its natural
growth, unfolding and developing into
distinct stem and branches in such q
way that when no shoots of the stem to
which it is affixed are allowed to grow,
IL shall constitute all of the tree above
its point of union, and bear fruit of the
same kind rs the tree from which it was
taken. OF course there must be some
likeness or affinity between the tree
from which the bud was taken and that
in which it is put, and the nearer the
relationship the more likely is the OPP
Grafton to be successful. A pear bud
can sometimes be made to live on an
apple tree. Some varieties unite read
lily on the ounce, but it will be impossi-
BILE to make a pear bud live on peach
tree; and so of other varieties.
To be successful in budding, the work
must be done when the stem in which
the bud is inserted is in vigorous growth.
The bark can then be readily lifted from
the wood, and the prepared bud be
placed in such position that the sap
which has been subjected to the chem
ical assimilation of the leaves, and is
passing downward on the surface of the
wood through the inner bark or albur-
mum, will come in direct contact with it
and aid in forming a speedy union. Be-
fore commencing the work of budding,
er knife and material necessary to bind
expressly for the pursose, with thin
ivory end to the handle, but any pocket
knife with a thin blade rounded at the
end will serve the purpose. Strips or
strings of Eastwood are best for tying,
but. in the absence of these, other ma
terial will serve the purpose.
To prepare the bud take cion of the
present seasons growth, and cut off the
portions of each end that have imper-
fectly developed buds. Next cut off
the leaves at about the middle of the
foot stalks. Then take the cion in your
left hand, with the small end pointing
toward you, or partly under the left
arm; insert the knife blade, which
should be sharp, half an inch below the
bud; cut through the bark and little
into the wood; pass it under the bud,
bringing it out little above, thus
taking off the bud with the bark and
thin slice of wood attached. Then make
in the stem or stock in which the bud
is to be inserted horizontal or trans
verse cut through the bark, the height
depending on the size of the stock,
which may be from one-guarter of an
inch to an inch in diameter, and of the
bud to be inserted, and from this make
an incsion down the stock about an
inch long, being careful not to cut so
deep as to injure the wood. These cuts
will resemble the letter t. Now lift
the bark on each side of the upright in
cision by passing the ivory handle or
the back of the rounded end of the
knife, as you may use the one OF the
other, under it. If the stock is in prop
er condition, it will not be necessary to
lift the bark the whole length of the
incisioD, but only at the angles. Now
take the prepared bud by the foot stalk
and enter it under the loosened angles
of the bark, pushing it gently down
ward to the bottom OF the incision. The
eye of the bud will now be from one
fourth to half an inch below the hori-
zontal incision. If the upper end of
the bark is above this incision it must
be cut oil square across, SO that it will
just match with the bark of the stock.
When the bud is thus placed it must
be fixed by binding it with the bass
wood or with woollen yarn in such way
that every part of it will be covered ex-
cept the eye. After about two weeks,
or as soon as the bud has made union
with the stock, this band should be re-
moved or loosened. The stock should
soon thereafter be cut off to within a
foot or so above the bud, and when the
latter has made growth of three or
four inches should again be cut in or
have all leaves, buds and sprouts re-
moved. Care should also be taken
that no sprouts grow on the stock below
the bud.
Budding in this latitude is usually
performed in the summer or early part
of autumn. For success three things
are essential. First, that the bark part
freely from the wood of the stock.
Second, that the bud be well ripened
and properly prepared. Third, that the
two be properly adjusted. 1t is well
that the buds be put in on the north
side of the stock when practicable, a;
they are thus sheltered from the direct
rays of the sun. The operation is one
of some nicely, and to do it well and
rapidly requires considerable expe
rience, but it is astonishing how quickly
it can be done by an expert.
Another process, known as annulal
budding, is sometimes used on trees o.
hard wood and thick bark. A ring o
bark is taken from the stock, and one
of equal size, containing the bud de-
sired to be grown. If the stock be
larger than the cion, it will not be nee
essary to remove the bark from it
whole circumference; if, on the othel
hand, the cion is larger than the stock
the length of the bark can be reduced
The parts should be well fitted and tiec
with mating after the wound has beer
covered with grating wax.-N, Y. Sun
Cheap Fertilizers.