The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1882-05-28
SCARCELY AMERICAN FARE.
Only = MorseI OF Pork and Few Beans to
Speak for n Great Nation.

The vanity OF France-for the artists COM
prising the committee of L'Unon Univer-
selle do Fart Culinaire belong to that semi
mercurial semi-volcanio nation, which has
done so much to enhance the charms OF ex-
istence-was deeply wounded by the melan-
choly failure Of the dinners of all nations given
last week. which were entirely attributed to
laches in the larder. and not to any deficiency
In culinary skill A conclave OF cooks was con-
seQuenty called together to redeem the ma
tional honor. and the first result was found
yesterday in what was in gay jest styled an
American dinner" The bill Of fare was
soup-cream Of lobster, beef broth with new vegets-
bles keshesnolye., snehoyie. sardines, chow chow,
,oria sauce and new potatoes Reioys,"sussfeured
s .Ps s
M cheese oS
style; spinach. summer squash. Roast-Lamb, mint
sauce Pe:sss.f tra pudding rum ice cream
Chef de cuisine, NJ. Fsre Aston House
1t will be seen at once that the styling OF this
word, a fiction. The. solitary representative
Of American culinary fame was small, greasy
dozen Of ancient beans Even its menu c 9
ion Of Boston brown bread was absent, The
dinner was not absolutely bad. and was doubt
sssSna- class hotel " dinnsr An I'D hen
IT'S mo nye mediocrty The ei ves 20
a confused flavor. Now, there are few things
which more distemper the taste for approach
ing dinner in that spirit of serious tranquility
which DR.. johnson recommends than finding
an uninviting lump of cold starch placed be-
fore you. There are many Americans who. in
their gay young days when they visited Europe,
have frequented the old Caves Of Harmony,
haunts which ,Thackeray has often depicted.
and who doubtless bear in n1,ealy memory
the. well,baked potato. round which the
waiter deftly twined his napkin with
broke, forth and smoked upon the platter.
Such beauteous things are now but rarely to be
found and yet in a so-called tAmerican dinner
a well-cooked potato should have leading
place. for America has an historic interest in
benfghted Europe. or the other vegetables not
one had fresh or distinct flavor. Neither were
oysters served, though America claims prece-
dence in this delicious restorative. and pisciv-
orous gourmets are alive to the fact that, in
~ so cold a May as this. has lost none Of its
flavor or its spirit. For the rest. should this
culinary conclave venture on another American
effort 1t might well. instead Of giving a second
class semi English. semi French feast OF cold
wash, stale salmon. and the eternal sweet.
breads. give some such menu as this. of which
the New York market could supply u dozen diff
ferent styles:
Oysters. CLANS. soup-Crab gumbo. terrspin. Fish
PompAno, New orleans fashion; king nsh, indian fash
beans with thin cuns OF Boston brown bread butter
GREEN peal. fTySGSiessns after aarsPshd e fashion
with cream Long Island asparagus Dessort-BanAnks
fried wine sauce.
Perhaps tomorrow. when the Frenchman
finds his hand on his native frying pan. he will
produce something worthy Of that grand ma
ton which has contributed such brilliant tours
de genie to the tooth and to the toe.