New-York tribune., 1882-02-19

extensively applied that 1t is evident the dis
must have made great ravagcs in this district;
and in places whole vineyards had been put in
soak, the tops of the vines just showing above the
muddy water. The grape finds n cOngenial soil
even at the edge of the sea noticed one spot where
the railway traveller if he had INDUCED in the
tional amusement of throwing peanut shells
ou, the window, might almost have tossed them
into vineyard on the left hand and salt water on
tn, right Large quantities Of salt obtained
from the lagoons along the coast. Heaped up in
truncaed pyramids. the product is deposited by the
| banks Of the great canal of Languedoc. through
which il find, its way to market. The sun set
ting IN Venetian splcndor behind lagoon when the
tram entered upon a long spit of sand. In the gath
eriug darkness, with water both Sides the loco
motive seemed to be carving straight ont to sea-
Hating finally at the seaport of Cette, town ia
nous. according 10 the guide-books. not for the
growth but for the manufacture Of nearly all the
principal wines known to commerce. we changed To
another road which carried Us northward through
Montpelier and Mines 90 meet the express coming
from Paris and Lyons down the Valley of the hhOhe
and toward midnight We were riding down the curl
Gus escarped streets which connect the railway
station At Marseiles with the centre Of the
town.
Most Of us probably remember the striking de-
Mar,eillcs glaring in the cruel heat of a summer
noon but far different is its appearance on ne DAY
m winter when by good fortune, the bitter mlstral
chances not TO be blowing from tie rorihWeSt'
Ih-u the dust lies sill; the is genial tTlend
he white houses, rising in amphltneatre around
the deep and crowded port, form an ettecilve con-
trast of color with the hills behind them and the
unrivalled blue of the their feet it would not
be difficult to fancy that the ancient commercial
settlement which is older than history, and has
been one of the capitals of tra'e for perhaps tlrce
thousand years had been planted with an ele cIehy
70 tbe picturesou. in situation and the harmonious
in tone The approach from the sea must he espe-
cially beautiful The ends of the nearly circular
range Of hills upon whose slopes and IN the en-
closed basin the city is built, draw close
together at the entrance of the harhor, and
a conspicuous landmark rises near each Ot the
extremities On the right Is the rocky and
sterile promineuce upon whose top. 800 feet ab've
the sea stands the fam sanctuary oi y tTe Dame
de la Garde still an object of particular devotion to
the sailors and fishermen of the Mediterranean as il
has been from remote times On the left, just over
the masts of the ships lying in the outer port ap-
pears the new and still unfinished cathedra-a spa
cous eiitice III the Byzantine style, built OF gray
and white stone in al ornate courses ana
crowned with several domes. The opening
lies between two stone forts of them five centu
rles old The greater part of the immense foreign
commerce of Mirseilles now finds shelter in series
of artificial basins formed on side the forts by the
construction of a mole mile long; but the inner
harbor v here the chief trade of the Mediterranean
centred for many ages, L. to this day. one Of the
most interesting features of the place. Crowded
with sailing craft, often exceedingly quaint IN
build and various in rig 1t reaches nearly three
quarters of a mile into the heart of the city, faced
on three sides by a line of qnays, which are
thrOuged by the ritlme people Of the world ne
principaI artery of the cty-the Broadway of
Mar>eiues-is a handsome thoroughfare called by
various appelations in different parts of its cours-,
but best known by the name Of its lowest portion,
the Rue de Ia Canne5ierc 1t b gins on the hills at
the back of the town. and runs straight down the in
cline TO The head of the old harbor. Stately hotels
splendid cafes rivaIling those of Paris, the most
brilliant of the shops and the finest of the business
Offices line both sides Of this spacious avenue; ana
its eavetv is furthermore enlivened by striking con-
trasts Ia the diverse mulJitudes who animate the
picture | found two tall Arabs in the imposing
white burnoose staring. with "A bewllderment when
their natural dignity Intellectual to conceal. at
the hustle around them. returning French
colouIst was followed by an odd It'll negro page
whose shining face was lighted by grin and
st off by q fez Sailors carried screeching
narrcts and other gorgeous birds. Fishermen aud
dock .borers clattered along the sidewalks IN
wooden shoes and clumsy leggings of green piald
blanket A detachment Of soldiers Just landed from
Africa-invalids probably from Iunis; they looked
haggard and needy-wOre curious red caps about
twice the height Of the ordinary fez, and as they
crowded into the railway station, with their strange
lot of nond-scrpt luggage, they JOS led the swarm
OF English tourists the way to Cannes, eHcum-
bered with innumerable Gladstone bags, guns. hat
boxes. satchels, rugs and umbrellas. Eyerybody-
tue Arabs eXcepted-n lot in hurry, seemed at
least 10 he pushed OH by of something to do.
IT, the life Of Marseilles there a certain
almost American. with picturesque variety Of co.,
tune IN manner altogether lis own; and these two
characteristics strongly distinguish the Caunebere
from the boulcvards of Paris which otherwise 1t
much res .mbics.
In the arrangement Of the principal streets Mar
seilles shows the same love If beautiful perspective
which noticed at Bordeaux. The long straight av-
enues often finely shaded, display stately far
reaching prospect closed wherever that II possible,
bv some striking piece Of architecture. In the Cours
Belzunce the broad street is divided in the mi lcle
by shaded foOtway At one end stands the statue
of the good Bishop Belzunce lustrous for is hero
ism during the appalling plague of 1920, when half
the population perlshed. continuation of this
street leads into the famous pleasure drive of Mar
seilles the Promenade du Prad) which, after
course Of three miles ends the shore OF the Med
terranean 1t is shaded the whole distance by four
rows of sycamores which thrive much better here
than they do with us, and certain places fifth
row of some other tree is interpCated. That
half of the Prado nearest the sea is occupied by
pretty villas wish could take a New-YOrk hack
man and put linn on exhibition by the side Of the
genial and engaging creature who drove us along
this promenade and thence miles further by the
winding shore. The construction of the open carriage
was highly favorable 10 conversation, and the
docie and willing horses required little attention,