Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-06-01

marked apologetically, smy clothes are very
nice and all that, bat feel as If had nothing to
wear"
SUMNER srEcIALrrEs
| Among the summer fabrics which time cannot
wither nor custom stale, notwithstanding there
Is no great variety in design or color are the
pure linen lawns. The merit of these externally
good and lovely materials is their refinement
| and mex pensiveness. They are not in high
vogue now, for they are anything but snowy :
but they are delicate, refined, cool and deserve
TO De Kept In mind by women who spend much
| OF their time indoors, who can wear dresses
light In color and delicate In texture but do not
want frail or gauzy tissues. The tint Of linen is
| never dead white, and these have q ground well
covered by small broken, leafy. coral, and
norous patterns, in dull violet, primrose, black
nne to darken very much the surface. They are
used exclusively for the house (except by
very young giris), and are made up in simple
shapes princess or long-shaped sacque, with
| skirt tucked lengthwise In front and trimmed
with fine torchon lace the sides of the front tied
with gros grain ribbons, the color Of the figure
throat.
I For young girls they are very pretty. made
with belted bodice and two skirts, or with
pleated blouse waist and trimmed skirt, the
trimming confined to Q simple draping across
the front, edged with lace and round not deep
irregular drapery at the back.
The FULL bodies came to us from England,
and they are a. much worn In London as ever
| In fact they have travelled to France; but they
are almost wholly confined to washing and very
thin tissues, such as nuns yelling and the like
Here they are discouraged, and have been almost
commonly ignorant and inexperienced dress
maker to make them presentable. They have
been accustomed only to perfectly plain waists.
0asques, Jackets and the like and they do not
| know what to do with fullness, or how to dis
pose Off 80 as to preserve the symmetry Of the
hgure and It's outlines. The basques were as
much Of q difficulty when they first made their
appearance, twenty-five or thirty years ago.
| 1t was believed then that only q man would
ever be able to fit basoue,-tailors under
took 1t and the male dress-makers who
were very numerous In those days, but IL
was believed to be out Of the reach of
the feminine dress-maker's intellect. In
TACT, they did at times make sad work of It;
but they acquired the art Of cutting basque In
time. probably with the help Of the plain paper
anything else that fullness-Grecian or other
| In corsage is quite beyond them. OF course
| there are dress-makers who can At slender
figure with full cOrsage but one OF the troubles,
and not minor one but very serious one In
TINS country, Is that II you undertake to have
anything well done you must pay at least twice
as much as 1t is worth to get it done.
THE COMPLETE SUMNER COSTUME.
speciality OF the season is the complete dress,
black or cream color with lace yelling, and
accompanied by bonnet and parasol complete.
The distinction Of 1t Is largely due to the depth
and beauty Of the lace trimming and the finish
and harmony Of the entire costume The foun-
dation is usually satin surah; the lace, Spanish
point Is often so deep that two widths of It
one laid across the front Of the skirt, the other
In close paniers upon the sides-will cover It
except the nne Killed founces, and q scant puff
ing which serves as q heading to these. The
lace Is also deity and gracefully woven into the
draping at the back, forms the mantle or yisite
with Its deep rufied collar and founcing. and
borders the rich parasol, which alone shows a
SKY OF ola gold or ruby high upon the inside.
augmented by fine embroidery Of jet which is
used In broad bands and panels, and is sunple-
mented by small bonnet entirely OF let. OF
course the costume is weighty but It il very
enectlve, and for lady who desires a dark and
striking toilet, without much regard to cost,
there is nothing more distinguished A lighter
all black dress, and one that those
ladies' would prefer who do not like and
Will not wear jet, is Of black embroidered nuns
yelling over satin surah used in the same way
as Spanish lace. The hat is black chip, large.
and OF the "Creole" or ipdented form, and
trimmed with profusion Of feathers and fac
Ing OF silk net. Nearly all special summer cos
tunes are accompanied by parasols, and many
by fan to match. The new French satteens
are sent In boxes, accompanied BY these acces-
sions; and have in previous letter described
the cheese cloths with cretonne appliaued or
bands embroidered, which were Completed by
the addition Of bonnet and parasol The fashion
Is pretty one In cottons, but it is an expensive
broidery, and not likely to become popular. The
Lace" effect upon and in materials, cotton and
wool have not had the success that was antici-
pated for them by dealers. Upon cottons such
effects are thrown away in the simple striped
mesh which only disfgured the surface of the
fabric. Had they been made in lace patterns.
ana arranged as borders, perhaps the result
would have been different; but hardly, for trim.
ming iaces are so pretty and cheap that there is
no object IN 30 palpable an imitation which has
not the grace OF the original
The wooden lace seemed to deserve succesa
Tor as material for overdresBes It is CHARMING
and 0btainable In black, white and colors; but i
Is somewhat expensive Ce1.50 per yard), and,
being open, requires to be made over silk 90
. snaI u Is costly purchase BY the time the
The cream patterns are, however, lovely over
pale blue, and can be arranged even more grace
ioliy and to better advantage than lace ITSELF
!e may also be used In the cream tints over
greatly reducing the expense while the effect 10
preserved, and the costume rendered even more
appropriate for summer afternoon wear. little
fetes, croqust parties and the like.
LAWN TENEn.
Lawn tennis has created dress of its own
very simple, pretty and suitable one. II
consists Of straight dress (of Saline,
gingham, lawn or any other pretty sum-
mer washing materially, with Q killing or
several narrow founces round the bottom. a
belted waist, and "Pinafore" overdress cut
square or low pointed at the neck, and having q
VIDE pocket Tor balls directly across the 'front.'
The sleeves Of the dress are pulled or made as A
small leg Of mutton, or they may be plain II the
arm is well formed, but they are long, coming
down nearly to the wrist. The overdress 10
often made Of cotton, with '1ace" effects, which
seem peculiarly well adapted for this purpose,
particularly over Saline or any other lowered
cotton. The bonnet is cap Of the cotton.