Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-11-18

both a long and happy life!" said the old lady,
softly smoothing the girls bright head
And every one was satisfied. except the ladies
of the Tower.-Helen Forest Graves.
SOME OF THE SECRETS OF BEAUTY
Compile xiOns-HOW to Make Up-The
Eyes-Etc.
From the Whitehall Review.
There Is as much a ''fashion" in compilations
as there is in bonnets OF boots Sometimes ma
ture is the mode, sometimes art. Just now the
latter is in the ascendant though as rule,
only In that inferior phase which has not
reached the 'concealment of art''-the point
where extremes meet and the perfection Of arti-
flee presents all the appearance Of artlessness.
No one Of an observant turn of mind, who is
accustomed to the sight of English maids and
matrOns, can deny that making up, as at present
practised, partakes of the amateursh element.
Impossible reds and whites grow still more i'm
possibly red and white from week to week under
the unskllled hands of the wearer of ''false
cOlOrs," who does not like to ask for advice on
so delicate subject, for, even were she willing
to confess to the practice the imputation Of ex-
perience conveyed in the asking for counsel
might be badly received, and would scarcely be
in good taste.
The prevalent and increasing short-sighted-
ness OF our times Is, perhaps partly the cause of
the excessive use Of rouge and powder. The
wielder OF the powder puff sees herself afar off
as 1T were. She knOws that she cannot Judge of
the effect of her complexion with her face almost
touching its reflection in the glass, and stand
ing about yard off, she naturally accentuates
her roses and lilies in a way that looks very
pleasing to her, but is rather startling to any
one with longer sight. Nor can she tone down
her rouge with the powdered hair that sOftened
the artificial cOlOring of her grandmother when
she had her day. Powder is only occasionally
worn with evening dress, and it is by daylight
that these dreadful blush reds and whites look
their worst.
On the other hand there are some women so
clever at making up their faces that one almost
feels inclined to cOndone the practice in adnira-
ton of the result. These are the small minority,
and are likely to remain So for their secret IS OF
kind unlikely to be shared. The closest In
spection of these cleyerly managed compilations
reveals no trace of art.
Notwithstanding the reticence of these skilled
artists, an occasional burst of confidence has re-
vealed few of their means OfaCcompshin9 the
great end of looking pretty. do you often do
thatt' said one OF these clever ones, a matron of
thirty-seven vino looked like a girl of nineteen.
to a friend who was vigorously rubbing her
cheeks with a coarse towel after plentiful ap-
plcatOn of cold water.
Yes, every time come In from a walk, ride
or drive. Why?" sH lI5H ! ~ 800
"Well, no wonder you look older than YOU
are You are simply wearing your face out"
But must wash?'
Certainly, but not like that. Take leaf
out OF my book; never wash your face just be-
lore going out into the fresh air, or lust after
coming in. Nothing is more injurious to the
skin. Come to the glass. Do you notice
streakiness in the cheeks? That is the result of
your violent assault upon your complexion Just
than you did twenty minutes ago l N te PARK.
We'll, l really do. look old enough to be,
your mother; but, then. you are wonderful
You always look SO young and fresh!"
because never treat my poor face so badly
as you do yours. l use rain-water and if can
not get that have the water filtered. When l
dress tor dinner l always wash nv face with
milk, adding just enough hot water to make it
pleasant to use. very soft sponge and very
fine towel take the place of your terrible hucka-
back arrangement"
Two or three years ago a lady, of ORIENTAL
parentage On her fathers side, spent q season
In London society Her SconiufexiOn was vas;
brown, relieved by yellow, her features large
and irregular, but redeemed by a pair of lovely
and expressive eyes So perfect was her taste
in dress that she always attracted admiration
wherever she went. Dressed in rich dark
browns or dullest crimsOns or russets SO that
no one ever noticed much what she wore she SO
managed that suggestions and hints-nO more
OF brilliant amber or pOmegranate scarlet should
appear just when they impaired brlliancy to her
deep cOlOring, and abstract all the yellow from
her skin. A knot Of old gold satin under the
rim OF her bonnet, another at her throat, and
others in among the lace at her wrists bright
ened up the otherwise subdued tintinlr of her
costume, so that it always looked as though It
had been designed expressly for her by some
great cOlOrist. Here rouge was unnecessary
The surroundings were arranged to suit the
complexion, instead of the complexion to suit
the surroundings. There can be no doubt as to
which is the method which best becomes the
gentlewOman.
In addition to the disagreeable sensation of
making up. 1t must be remembered that the use
of some of the white powders eventually des-
trOys the texture OF the skin, rendering it
rough and coarse. Rilmel the celebrated per-
fumer, in his Book of Perfumes" says that
rouge being composed of cOchineal and saffron,
Is harmless, but that white cosmetics consist
occasionally of deleterious substances which
may I'M ure the health. He advises actors and ac-
tresses to choose cosmetics, especially the white,
with the greatest care, and women OF the world,
who wish to preserve the freshness of their
complexion, to observe the following recipe:
Open air, rest. exercise and cold water In
another part OF this pleasant book its author
says that schnondd, cosmetic used among the
Arabs, Is quite mucous and at the same time
eifectnal. This cream which consists OF sub
limated benzoin, acts upon the skin as slight
stlmulant and imparts perfectly natural cOlOrs
during some hours without OccasiOning the in
cOnveniences with which European cosmetics
may justly Oe TepfO0cneO. IL Is well Known
fact that bismuth, white powder containing
sugar of lead, Injuries the nerve centers when
constantly employed. and occasionally causes
paralysis itself.
In getting up the eyes, nothing is Injurious
that Is not dropped into them. The use of kohl
or kohol is quite harmless, and, 1t must be con-
fessed. very effective, when applied-as the
famous recipe for salad-dressing enjoins with
regard to the Vinegar-by the hand of a mfser.
Modern Egyptian ladies make their kohol of the
smoke produced by burning almonds. A small
bag holding the bottle of kohol. and pin, with
a rounded point with which to apply It. form
part of the toilette paraphernala OF all the
beauties Of Cairo, who make the immense mis-
take Of getting up their eyes in an exactly sim
liar manner, thus trying to reduce the endless
variety of nature to one common pattern. a
mistake that may be accounted for by the fact
that the Arabs believe kotol to be sovereign
specific against .Ophthalmia. Their English Sis
tiers often make the same mistake without the
same excuse. A hairpin stepped in lampblack
Is the usual method Of darkening the eyes in
England retribution following sooner or later
In the shape Of a total loss Of the eyelashes
Eau de Cologne is occasionally dropped into the