St. Landry democrat., 1882-05-27
Full.Dress TOilettes.

The full-dress toilettes prepared at
this season of the year are much simpler
than those shown in the autumn. For
the midsummer fetes at country houses
and watering places short dresses will
be worn exclusively; hence at the
largest furnishing houses not one
trained dress was exhibited in the gas
lighted room devoted to evening tot
lettes. Low corsages were also omit
ted, and the display consisted of many
very bou1ant short dresses OF fine soft
fabrics, with surpice Or square neck
elbow sleeves. The corsages fitted the
figure smoothly below the hips, and
abundant draperies were arranged
there. Most of these dresses were fast
ened in front by hooks and eyes or
very small buttons that were concealed
by lace frills, and their trimmings were
massed on the neck and arms, or if laid
on the bodice, they were so smooth and
flat that they added nothing to the ap-
parent size; and in order to add to the
look of slenderness these trimmings
were brought into q sharp point at the
waist line or just below it. There were,
however, some corsages laced in the
back, fitted by very few seams, having
only one dart in front on sharply
pointed waists, or with Jersey
polonaises that had no side forms.
Pink and white are the prevailing colors
for such dresses, with {: few pale blue
| tintS for blondes, but none of the deep
lemon yellow shades shown last year.
The materials are either faille or the
lustrous satin merveilleux for the foun-
dalton, with nuns yelling, embroidered
silk muslin, Powered gauze and Span
ish lace for the drapery, richly trimmed
with embroidery, lace, innumerable
] bows of narrow satin or velvet ribbon,
and very few flowers. Pink satin s,lrah
for the foundation of basque and skirt,
covered entirely with white Powered
gauze, makes lovely dress; a great
panier sash Of the pink satin gives the
necessary bouffant effect. A pale blue
MORE basque or close corsage is worn
with white skirts or embroidered null,
or else silk muslin, and this is arranged
to conceal the edge of the MORE bodice;
the only blue tints in the skirt are given
by the blue silk foun 1ation skirt, and its
many small bows of satin ribbon with
out ends, or else with clusters of ends
Of ribbons cut in forked tongues with
out any bows or loops. Embroidered
pale blue gauze as a Jersey polonaise
over blue satin is one of the French fam
cies. White sheer muslin with small
dots wrought very thickly upon it is
made in panier polonaise that fits the
waist and hips smoothly over a blue
lining; the panier fullness is shirred to
the edge of this waist, draped in two
deep festoons on the front and sides,
and hangs very full and long, yet in a
narrow space, behind, to the foot of the
blue skirt, which is nearly covered in
front with frills of embroidered muslin.
The convenient fashion of wearing
bodice of one kind with skirts of another
remains in STYLE MORE and the cling
ing soft satins are most used for these
bodices; but instead of representing the
coat-basque worn during the winter,
they are the bodice with paniers like the
blue MORE and white embroidered silk
muslin combination described above.
Still newer fancy for such combina-
tons is a shirred surplice jacket of satin
surah worn outside of full muslin
waist. For instance, a Partisan dress
has ecru embroidered null for the skirt,
and for high corsage with deep collar,
but without sleeves. Over this waist,
concealing all but the front of it. is a
dark garnet satin surah jacket with sur
plice neck and elbow sleeves and great
embroidered cuffs to match the collar.
This is blouse jacket without side
forms in the back, but shirred at the
waist line and also in front, with
sash bow behind. Striped en-
broidery is used for plated founces
on the skirt, and arranged SO that an
embroidered stripe is on top of each
plat. This forms two very wide curved
founces across the front and sides,
with plain null sbirred as hounces be-
tween, and edged with Florentine lace;
the back is arranged in poufs, and three
very narrow knife-plaitings trim the
foot. Cream white surah skirts are be-
ing made in the same way to wear with
cardinal or blue waists. Nuns yelling
for basque and paniers over surah
skirt is another combination that re-
mains popular, especially white or pink
yelling, with pink satin surah for the
skirt The foot Of such dress is most
fluffy trimmed with fine tapping plait-
ed frills-three in cluster-with lace
frill laid over, and wide enough to cover
them; then above this are other lace
frills, under which pink tulle is gath
cred to bring out the pretty pattern OF
the lace. -Harper's Bazaar.
! "A physician says that exposure
plays secondary role in the production