The Portland daily press., 1882-04-06
[Harpors' Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
FRENCH DONNETS,

FRENCH BoNNETS.
Openings of millinery at private establish
| ments show many unique novelties not dis
| played at the Wholesale houses. Velvet is seen
| to rival faile as a trimming, and also as parts
| of the newest bonnets and round hats. The
| quaint shades used with wool dresses are shown
| for these velyets such as terra Gotta, copper
red, electric green, bronze olive, mOrdore gold
en- brown, and some primary shades OF blue
that are quite bright in both light and dark
shades. These velvets form the entire crowns
| of straw capotes, or of Leghorn and Manila
| hats, or else they cover the outside brim Of
straw bonnets that have Normandy straw
| crowns, or they face the inside brims of pokes,
| or form luted puff on the edge Of round
| hat or a tiny capote; and more than all else,
| velvet is used as narrow ribbon for strings,
| and for smooth, inch-wide bands around crowns
| where they are fastened on top by prim bow
| that holds clasp or bee made OF Rhine
stones. Another pretty fancy Is the use OF
| white and cream-tinted Irish point embroidery
| on muslin for soft crowns lined with Surah sat
| in, and completed by brim of Tuscan or Bel
gian straw. Thin French crinkled Grape is al
So prettily combined with this Irish point, or
with beaded Spanish laces, or with many short
ostrich tips to form dressy bonnets in pale rose,
or blue, or cream-color. The velvet-trfmmed
bonnets are for the demi-season, while for mid
summer are tulle bOnnets drawn on wires
without other frame beneath, in order to dis
play handsome coiffures These come IN pale
blue, brick red, and cream white, adorned
with many beads of the same color as the tulle,
and with small feather aigrettes, or very large
clusters of flowers with dropping foliage that
hangs low ON the left side, even down on the
strings. Crowns are the objective points Tor
displaying new materials, and many of these
are soft large crowns; the rnew twine lace Is
used for such crowns, and there are ptln1etiS
(embroidered) stuff crowns, ietted grenadine
crowns, and others OF lace straw with buttons
or pendent drops.
< great deal of colored Spanish lace is used,
especially in the dark myrtle green that is now
so popular for bonnets. This lace sometimes
covers the brim, while the crown is OF greon
velvet, with row after row OF strung gilt beads
upon it. Face trimmings are used again, and
the small capotes have either coronet or else
q row of roses or other flowers, without foliage,
over which lace falls There is an effort, also,
to bring back white tulle cap-like ruches inside
the brim. The Patience pokes, brought out by
a celebrated London milliner, are large and an
tiqnated-looking, with flower cluster inside
the brim on it's left side. Pink beaded lace
bonnets with ostrich tips on the side, a crown
made of bows Of moire ribbon, and strings Of
transparent Grape, are shown for dress occasions
nets of Neapolitan braid are shown in both
small and large shapes, and are commended as
of better quality than those formerly used.
Several rows OF large beads are still used on
the brim of capotes, and sometimes many rows
Of such beads form the entire bonnet Gypsy
shapes, large pokes, and very large flats OF Ma
Mia or Leghorn are shown for Newport and
Saratoga hats. These have single great pouf
of net, tulle, or jeted lace over satin placed n-
side the brirn, an inch from the edge, or else
they are faced with dark velvet or with rows
of pleated lace and beads. Tie outside Of the
hat has white Spanish lace scarf for trimming
combined with many feathers OF several gay
hues, or else there are ten or twelve roses or
benches of yellow flowers with foliage, and the
only feathers form single tuft, with spirited
aigrette rising in its centre. Frills Of lace
dropping around the brim are also seen
again on hats that are large enough to shade
The richest black bonnets are Of jetted lace
laid over satin, with black aigrette on the
left and row of black satin pansies formingA
coronet under dropping lace. Neat and simple
black bonnets are capotes OF Neapolitan braid,
with jetted lace falling over slight face trim
ming of white flowers, black faille strings, and
black aigreste. Youthful and plain capotes OF
Manila braid have twenty tiny bows OF dark
green satin ribbon clustered on the left side,
with soma dwarfed sunfiowers on the right
The coronet is covered with green velvet
puff, and strings of the narrow satin ribbon are
tied on the left side in a square bow to match
those of the trimming.
GLOVES.
Cream and tan colored gloves remain the
popular choice. These are worn with black,
white and colored costumes, without any at
tempt at matching the gloves to the dress
there are also the various wood colors, mode,
drab, slate, mastic, and seal brown shades, as
well as straw and pearl tints; the preference,
however, is for darker gloves for all occasions,
even for those where full dress is required.
Mustard colors and lichen shades, with olive
tints, are shown for spring, and as an extreme
novelty terra Gotta hues are also displayed.
Many ladies still use the long, smooth buttoned
gloves but the general taste is for those that
have loose closed wrists entirely without but
tons. or else those that have two buttons at the
wrist, and are closed above on the arms. Cor
respondents who ask the meaning of the names
given these gloves are informed that Mousque-
taire gloves are those fastened by two buttons
at the most tapering part OF the wrist, and
closed above pm the arm. SAKE or Jersey
gloves have plain closed wrists without hut
tons. The name Biarritz refers to the materi-
al of the glove-not its style-which Is lamb
skin, thick, durable and inexpensive. Cha
mois gloves are of the buff and tan skins OF the
chamois; they wash well, and are excellent for
country use. The chamois Suede gloves are
thicker than undressed kid gloves, but not so
thick as castor-skins, and are chosen for both
service and style Three rows Of heavy dark
stitching are now seen on ladies' gloves, es-
pecially in the stylish tan colors. Women OF
fashion now wear the chamois Suede gloves on
all occasions, for travelling or for dress, and
then clean them by Wa shing them in tepid
water in which is a little ammonia; they come
in buff, tan, and in white, and in four-button
to ten-button lengths, some OF which are but
toned closely, and others are SAKE or Mousque-
taire styles.