Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1882-08-23


been of late wears so slmplified that almost
anyone with a reasonable degree of execu-
tive ability can manufacture fashion able
costume by using an approved pattern and
following the directions printed upon il,
selecting new pattern for each distinct
style, while in Europe many Indies adhere
to the old plan Of cutting one mo.lel and
using it for everything, trusting to personal
skill or luck to gain the desired formation.
However, some useful hints are given
which are well worth offering after the
paper pattern has been chosen
1he best dressmaKers here and abroad
use siA for lining, but nothing Is so de-
rsnle or preserves the material as well as a
width and sheuld be laId out thus folded.
Place the pattern upon it with the upper
part towards the cut end, the selvedge for
the fronts; Tue side pieces for the back
will, most probably. be got out of the
width, while the top of the back will fit IN
the Intersect of the 'front.' A good yard OF
stuff may be often saved by laying the
pattern out and well considering how one
parts cuts into another. Prick the outline
on 10 the lining; these marks serve for q
guide for the tacking.
In forming the front side pleats be care
full and do not allow fold or crease to be
apparent on the bodice beyond where the
stitching commences. To avoid this, before
beginning stick pin through what Is to be
the top of the pleat. The head Will be On
the right side and holding the point, one
can begin pinning the seam without touch
ing the upper part of the bodice. To as
certain the size of the buttonholes put
piece of card beneath the button TO be used
and cut IL an eighth of an incn on either
side beyond. Having turned down the
piece in front ON the buttonhole side, ruR
thread sixteenth of an inch from the
width of the card. Begin to cut the first
buttonhole al the bottom of the bodice and
continue al equal distances The other
side of the bodice is left wide enough to
come well under the buttonholes. The
buItonholes must be laid upon II and pIa
put through the centre of each TO mark
where the button is TO be placed. In sew
ing on the buttons put the stitches in
horzoptally, if perpendlcularly they art
likely 10 pucker that side of the bodice so
auch that il will be quite drawn up and
the buttons will not match the button
holes.
As to sleeves. Measure from shoulder
to the elbow and again from elbow TO
wrist. Lay these measurements on any
sleeve pattern you may have and leDgthen
or shorten accordingly. Ibe sleeve Is cut.
In two pieces, the top OF the arm and the
under part, which Is about an inch mar
rover than the outside. In joining the
two together, If the sleeve is at all tight.
the upper part is slightly fulled TO the
lower al the elbow. The sleeve Is sewn
to the armhole with no cordings now, and
the front seam should be about two inches
IN front OF the bodice seam beneath the
arm, but one must be guided in this by
the form OF the wearer.
Bodies are Low worn very tight-Jittlng,
and the French stretch the material veil
on the cross before beginning to cut out,
and in cutting allow the lining to be
slightly pulled, so that when on the out
side stretches 10 it and insures better fit.
An experienced eye can tell Efench cut
bodice at once, the front side pieces beng
always on the cross. In dress cutting and
hitting as IN everything else there are fall
ures and disCoursgements, but practice
oyerruIes these little matters, and Trying
again" bring sure reward in success
Another hint may be of benefit 10 per-
sons OF moderate means; they should, as
rule, dress in black or dark colors, as such
are not conspicuous, and consequently do
not tell their date as lighter articles do. A
blue dress, for Instance, or Il red leather,
how plainly they speak the wearer's iden-
tIty, even at a distance, and how glaringly
they tell OF the length of time they have
been in wear.
a sensible suggestion is made in regard
to the finish in necks of dresses Tor morn
Ing wear. Plain collars have rather a
stiff appearance, tulle or crepe lisse frilling
are expensive and frail, SO II is q good idea
to purchase few yards of really good
washing lace, about al inch and q half in
CeptE; gull or pleat, and cut into suitable
lengths 10 tack around the Becks OF dress
es; this can be easily removed and cleaned
when soIled. A piece Of soft black spanish
lace, folded loosely around the thfoat, close
10 the friDings, but below it, looks very
prettiiy; or you may get three yards OF
scarf lace, trim the ends with quilings,
place II around The neck, leaving nearly
all tie length in the night hand, the enc
lying upon the lett sh ulcer beipg abou,
hall d yard long. Wind the larger piece
twice round the throat, In loose soft folds,
and fesIoon the olher yard and half and
fasieH with brooch OF flow er at the side
The dresses made now al the fashionable
establishments are called emergency Gus
TUNES, being made either for special &C.
casions or because the lady has money
enough TO pay for what she does really
need, which IS certainly an advantage to
the Gressmaker, who must have employ
ment at all seasons TO provide the family
bread.
One OF these very elegant toilettes is of
sursh and laSe-blue velvet
and is intended for fall wear as well as
the watering place. The skirt Is grace
fully cut and edged with velvet. ha'f
yelled over with border of Chantilly lace |
no paDiers or puff, but drapery of tur-
quolse blue suIah, trimmed with open |
work embroidery, cream coIored, thrown |
over the skirt and caught up several times; |
bodice with a ACE ruffle over embroidered |
plastron, with basque skirt in front and |
pulled out at the back; sleeves three-ousrt- |
ers long, putfed out at the armhole, with |
revers at the bottom. All |
sleeves, almost without execution. are |
semi short or threequarters long. SO that
long gloves or mittens must be worn. |
a pretty dress for little girl has short |
skirt OF Japarese toulard, slashed open |
About halt way up al regular dis ances to
admit of a tribe fold being Inserted. The |
blouse is made OF blue surah, trimmed |
with Venetian lace; the sleeves are half
ODg and loose.
The roveity in bathing suits Is made of
pale blue and yellOwish serge. The draw
Els are trimmed with puffs of blue, and
he long blouse, of the blue serge, is trlm-
ned from Eeck to lower edge of skirt with |
laduatlng puff vf yellow fabric. The
yoke and sleeves are also of the yellow
and are gauged and pulled. The blouse
IS confined at the waist by canvas bel,
md an oil-silk cap, gaInished with blue
braid, covers the head. Canvas sleeves,
blue bound. and Rsvy blue stockings COM