New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-10-15

racal array sat a musician with ivc,strnged IN
strument ike huge guitar; Ihey e Gnger armed
with misrdb or small triangle of wire Inc steer
strings were not unmelodious, but the voce OF tho
singer recalls those noises w0n ndd,ngs Nv homes
for an ode IF laz. chanted con esPItSo th 20 hni
lshed az rs the singer opened ms U' nv " r"nf
low forth AmdR, AmdR and var idT, 'lI Wy 1900 aE"s
shrieked again. felt half inclined to say foS,cos
obi puer apparatus, and take my leaVS' pi. LnU
rapt counenances OF the ShanIada anu ms L
hefroved such an intense enjoyment as 1t would
have been cruel TO interrupt. Presently lhepIlpc1y
hand withdrew The greasy stopper from inc po!lic,
and offered me haf wfnegass Or 10 strom@ s
a colo less I0uor made from the grape as stlouV -
brandy and powerfully seasoned win ahiseeu.
Having helped his guest, the Shahzada pouIed loor
himself, aud atterward for all the company, senu-
ing the single VINE glass round with great gravity
After drinking we ate bread with curds ana SPIN
ach, till once more music arose WIN ltS Nulupr
tuous swell" Sayyid Ali turned up ut tins stage OF
the proceedings, and respectfully asked the ShauI
zada to favor up with some display OF MS nualCal
aent. The Shahzada, delighted, turned up us
cuffs, and laid hold of red and black IL um,suaPcu
like Stage goblet, but half the size OF chuIn
Placing tine stem of this under ms ieit arm, thlS
representative somewhat remotel OF Acn@hmen 's
and Chosroes proceeded to finger the parchment
with no despicable deXterity 70 tuno called Tue
Russian. family suggesting that hlgh ana moving
composition which goes by the name OF Lahniga w.
BAH. apDiauded, and shortly after took my ue-
parture. When one had 10 march at sunrise theIe
~ some Inconvenience i'll waiting to see lhe emu VI
an Oriental SOiT6e musicale. SayyId All renalheI
and Kept il up with the Shahzadl TIL the small
hours.
Our traveller was not very deeply impressed by
the splendors of the capital He entered Ieherah ny
"a tawdry blue tiled gate, topped by bold picture
of Rustams combat with the White Demon wrought
in coloreT tiles In design this is equal to school
boy drawing a slate; as piece OF coloring' III
is effective enough" The houses on the high street
are low, whtewashed and narrow; and the distinct
lively Persian coifee-houses are intermingled with
Ia IttpN IN
including, among other pubic improvements d lux
uriOusy furnished bar-io0m.
The palaces Of the Shah deserve some notice. L
did not see his town residence; but OF the many
summer lodges which dot the loot-slope or Shlnrah'
SAW four or i've notably SaltaDatabdd which be-
ing comparatively recent. ana on Grand scale
may serve as a specimen OF the rest. IL lies SOME
600 feet higher than Guiahck, IN the must oI d
noble garden where p9plars and planes give ample
shade and mulDcTries, pums apples ana cherries
can be gathered till one grows ufed. SlreailS oI
clear water run by the sides OF the Alleys anu Iou
tans with pellUcld basins Ill ~ inc VISTA III var
Gus directions, while great tank, hundred yaTuS
long by sixty broad and eight or nine 1eet deep oc
cuples the centre Above this stands large SUM
mcr-house Its central hail, paved with blue tles
IS DOlygOn OF some twenty yards III diameter; a
fountain plays in the middle and raised dais oc7
cupcs at one side. The angles are adorned
with frescOes the work of Persian artists, repre-
Scntng European scenes though one cannot I'M
agne what principle has guided the selection one
picture shows the LOBBY OF the House OF Commons;
another the interior OF some large London fesiad-
rant a third the inside OF church during service;
fourth, the nave of some cathedral. HE summer
house is three stories hIgh and the upper floors are
LAID out In illustrated by mirrors ana uecO
rated with pictures OF jOyally ana festlVe proceed
| lngs between two persons. These are ludlclOds 10
the last degree, both youth and maiden pong III
vaTably aIrayed III what the artist c0n8ld red the
fastest European fashion, while their eyes nave no
regard for their concerns, bu are stcadIiy III
rccted on the behodeT. One panel bears the hgnre
OF a gigantic waspWaisted whlte-cTlnOhnel dal'el'
in whose lap sprawls lover ABOUT hall her SIZE,
y, 4 1
cup dangling IRON his ncryeleSs Aald spills us ruby
contents over the white SKIRT OF ms sweetheart.
had the curiosity 10 ascend above the tnlIu stoIy
into the loft under the roof, and found II the hOt
test place bad ever entered III my lie; hotter no
doubt than the piOmbt of Venice, Tor IeheFdn Is
nearer he sum- ana no roof could be much thlhDef
than the copper sheathng of this painted dome
Besides this prnclpll summer-hOuSe there are sew
cral other buildings IN various prrts OF the grounds
inc in a series OF rooms to the Shshs bedr at
the top. another is a clock tower of much the same
pattern. Another is the Shahs menagere, gai-
ery filled with pictures OF Wld animals, some OF
which copied from English designs, such as the
picture of the grizzly bear sitting on pine trunk
which bridges a canon, while he holds the dead body
of horse under his fOrcpaws--a design that forms
the frontispecc, It mistake not to the book called
" The Great Lone Land but most of them Origi-
nal indeed wonderfully aud fearfully so. he eX-
preston of The mouth of the hppopotanus Is e5pe-
cIaily uncanny. The birds are much better dOne
couple OF condOrs on q dead OK are indeed twice
the size OF Their quarry but when that point Is over
looked finds some hing TO admire III Inc
rendering of the plumage and IN the general pose.
The PcrSian5 most successful III portrait paint
ing " hen they lay fancy aside, and 20 IN Tor
faithful representation Of real men, they can pro-
duce very respectable hknesses
Perhaps what have written will serve to SHOW
that royal state Persia is half barbarOus yet and
decidedly deficient III finish. 1t has much that is
bright and striking i'll color, gliding and mlrror-or-
namentatlOn. but Costumes aud splendOr Will
be looked for in vain. The things that seemed TO
me III best taste were certain doors ana soma WIN
dows OF carved wood, where design and execution
were pretty and delicate. The flooring OF a ROOM III
the wOmen's apartment III Satanatabad was pretty
enough; 1t consisted OF glass ties laid aver
groundwork Of blue rosettes. In the sarddDa or
underground chambers Of the Nigaristan palace III
Ieberan city, where Faith Ali Shah used 10 dispOrt
himsel with his ladies' IN the heat OF tie summer
day, still see, and if he chooses, slide down.
the SUrSurd or shoot of white marble, rubbed
smooth by the white limbs of that gracious
mOnarchs many wives as they used 10 come Gid
ing INTO his royal arms 1t IL an inclined plane
down which one shoots with considerable velocity
in d sitting posture, TO plunge ut not stopped) INTO
a marble tank at the foot. sOlenn!y slid down IT,
III riding boots and spurs feeling that but made
quatcly represented the spirit OF the place.
Opinion seems to be divided as to whether the
Shah's visits to Europe have done HIM good or not
/ have heard 1t SAID that one result OF them has
been 10 diminish his respect for the European
Powers. BE that as 1t may, Ieheran at least has
gained something by the Shahs experience OF Euro
pean roads.
Everywhere Mr.. Stack found evidences of mis-
government and oppression, and throughout the
country districts the desire was freely expressed
that some European Power would seize the kingdom
and put end to tho suferings of the people. But
much greater respect seemed to be felt for Russia
than for England, and the marks of Russian nu-
epce were unnistakabe. The surrender of Canda-
bar by the British was universally interpreted as a
confession of weakness.