Indian chieftain. [volume] (Vinita, Indian Territory [Okla.]) 1882-1902, 1882-11-24

Black Cashmere, CameI's.hair, Etc.
A nice black wool dress has become
almost indispensable in lady's outfit.
and is valued alike by the young and
old. For young the present fancy is to
brighten black dresses with facings and
vests of colored cashmere, or to wear
an entire basque of gay color, or elss
Jersey waist, but the greater number
of black wool dresses are now made in
the simple styles adopted for cloth
dresses, as these are more seryiceable
because less likely to go out of fashion.
and are inexpensive because they re-
quire no tr mining but stitching, or else
very simple braiding. The cashmere
of nice quality, and Jet black without a
blue cast, is Of itself so pleasing aiabric
that trimming is not needed to enhance
its beauty. but the tubular braids. many
rows. of soutache, or small quantity OF
galloon made of twisted cords, or some
velvet folds are generally added to
camels hair dresses. If a combination
is liked better. or there are partly worn
skirts of last season to be remodeled.
the wool goods is used for panier poll
onaise or pelisse with resers, cuffs
and collar of the material Of the skirt.
The Jersey webbing that is sold by the
yard is also purchased for a waist TO be
used with wooden skirts; in sim
gle widths this is now sold for
sl.50 yard. and is made UP
with few seams. and more snugly
fitted than less elastic fabrics, as 1t elings
and expands with the figure. Some
young ladies add collar. wristbands,
aud sash of dark red. bright Turkey
red, or turquoise blue cashmere to COM
pleie these waists; the buttons are
usually black and very small. Plush
that is no longer the first fashion is
now used for the skirt, with camers-
hair for the over dress The skirt may
be perfectly plain, with narrow box
plating of camel l's-hair at the foot, or
It may have some lengthwise plaits ad-
ded in the front or sides where the
over-dress discloses it, or it may have
most of its fullness in two great box
plaits behind, and the clolh-like over
garment be cut with long side cores.
and short position back that is cut of
straight across on the tournure. This
makes warm looking winter dress for
ladies who do not find the tailor made
suits becoming. The wooden repped
stuiis that are liked best have the reps
lengthwise instead of across the fabric,
because they are more easily cleansed
by brushing downward; these are SIM
liar to what was formerly called Biar-
ritz cloth. but the reps are more prom
inent Beaded trimmings are not liked
for black wool dresses, the ladies who |
consider expense think IL risk to buy |
jet trimmings, because they have been
worn so long. The embroideries done |
on the fabric are liked for more costly
black dresses of cashmere or of camel s.
hair.
The Henrietta cloths that were for
msrly confined to ladies dressing in
are now used by those wear
ing colors when very rich fabric is de-
sired. and the trimming is the silk Span
ish lace with heavy corded designs on
meshes of guipure. Shirring in broad
masses is no longer used ON woo.en
skirts. though the slightly shirred scarf
draperies. or the fronts Of the basque
shirred upon vest, are still popular.
Tucks around the skirt and on the over
skirt are more used even than last sea-
son, and quite rival the lengthwisc
p,a Is. This is especially true Of French
dresses, US the Partisan dressmakers
have lately made tho entire front and
side breadths of ha finch tucks In cash
mere costumes not only In black. but in
co.ors. The eifecl is that of horizontal
braiding. and the edge is trimmed with
4 Itiche or with narrow box-plaiting.
Vests are worn In such varied shapes
this season that they afford excellent
ways Of freshening up partly worn
basque. A velvet, corduroy. velveteen !
or brocaded velvet vest may be appro-
pria ely added to almost any wool. OF
silk. or satin basque. II the bottoms
lni lies are frayed, a Breton vest IL
most useful. rs it is all in one piece, !
Or may have seam down the I
middle. and can be sewcd on
he right side with slight edging
If nd passementerie. and is Tapped I
across 20 the left. where il Is met by !
similar trimming. and may be fastened !
Dy hooks and loops, or there may be
low Of small buttons down each side. ,
Il the skirt front Is also worn. a breadth
II velvet may be inserted there in SINH
ar fashion. and the vagaries OF the I
tyies are such that BIT OF chenille or !
cited fringe may be used at the loot OF
his breadth. even though Il does not !
lppear elsewhere on the dress; indeed. {
here is fancy for leaving the wide {
ide breadths without any trimming at {
he foot. no matter how elaborately the {
'ther par of the skirt may lie trimmed.
( the Breton vest Is not liked there '
an be narrower vest put under seal
ops of the dress waist. or with n ruche ,
o conceal the join. or there may be
more masctiline-shaped vest, with
Iouble points in 'front.' and Sits for
ratch and change pockets. This vest Z
J scwed in the under-arm seams. and is !
ften of brocade. with the cashmere !
ront of the basque drawn back gradu- ,
lily from Just beneath the collar. Two
frills of doubled otioman silk !
r of satin. each an inch and half [
ride. and both turned toward the left !
ide, and placed down the bas4u from 8
eek TO waist line. are tasteful trim
nings for any waist. and viii conceal :
be soiled front of dress of last year. q
= U.x-..nrt. /. Iy-or