New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-09-15
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
sEAsoNABLE MATERIALS AND PATTERNS

ClIILDRENS SUITS.
The days of Richard the Second are revived
in the fashions caused the imprisonment OF
the unfortunate tailor who devised and brought such
ungGdly fances' IA finest bOrdenng3 and br0idcrngs,
leaf-shapcd or IN arabesques. II imbued with some
fantastic, weird spell NOW that the revival mania Is In
the ascendant the designers 20 tho days Aho-
lab. who receives notice In Exodus tho great cl-
broderer in blIe. From the web OF Penelope. he era
ciou services Of tho OF lace aud the emOrol-
continue TO the present day OF exquisite art,
which has been perfect than ia IN tho
new passementories ringcs hGnd-worked and embr0id
cred aces, sans cashmeres sks, and other fabrics 1T
FOR fairy-land. Jet romans In the ascendant.
Chenille Is the most important feature ia the eab
crate manufacture of iringes and ornaments A
band OF clustering dropping small chenille sur
mounts band five inches in width composed Of fine
chenille aud et woven IN intricate designs from this
depends a wide thick fringe OF large chenille
dropping the other TO the depth Of four inches
superb wide Aaading OF alternate fine chenille and cut
Jet dotted here and there with large jet mas
fringe Of chenille network in diamond shape. In each
diamond similar acorn is pendant from each poat
hangs tasse OF Jet IN a Of chenille tasses form
Ing succession OF three fringes. An equally wide
fringe OF alternate &c and fue chenille balls has al
elaborate, very wide heading OF fine chenille arranged
u gcometric designs and dropping chenille balls. A
fringe Ave inches deep hangs in points OF network or
cu ei headed with large chenille balls that also droop
finest cut jet veined with nne chenille the edges are Of
fine cut Jet. Many other superb fringes, OF them
sixteen inches deep IN such shapes formed by
usrous satin Cords the toll Of the Tyre bird flour de
ls fret WORK Gothic arches, slender columns with foil
around the capitals, roses, and lilies. design
rather narrow band Of passementere is hung with
frngcs Of graduated satin balls the other, each
point the design completed by very large square
Of chenille worked with Jet and finished by long
Jet drplets A magnificent fringe half yard wide
shows a succession Of overlapping small chenille balls
at intervals long, large chenille tassels are suspended
over a cluster OF bamboo leaves Another style has a
gauffered silk ground and covered with large
chenille laid on in fantastic designs; chenille
and jet balls hang finished by a Jet cone
shaped ornament. Jet beads and bugles are
arranged in diamond pattern interviewer with stars
and tulips in sa;in cords and very fine chenille.
Passemcntcries equally rich and massive again. as
seen composed OF satin cords, soft plant ppngs cord,
beads and chenille, the most artistic designs appropri
for the richest materials by loom, These are
all extremely large. One intricate design Of a fuchsa
is filed in with fine satin cord descending in points of
jet. spiked fern style is interviewer with tiny cut
Jet and nne chenille another in palms and rOsettes is
mixture of comes and sharp ances that massed in
ground work Of cut jets showers Of satin balls drift
down into points. large round ornament ia composed
Of satin piping with OF chenille four nges OF
three graduated balls Of chenille and satin each
descend from the medallion Other graceful sets OF pas
sementere are In flower aud foliage designs The leaves
Of cord the flowers Of chenille the wigs Of fue
braid. very large amount is OF oak leaves and long,
dropping Others take on. In OF chenille
and satin ppg-brad fan, leaf, cone, crescent star.
lily lleur de lis aud obesk ehapes. some fantastic
shapes gttrng with cut jets resembles the pinwhee Of
fireworks with the dropes Of quantities Of satin and
chenille little balls. Some Of the larger balls Of satin
covered with network of fire jet three inches
around These are hung in graduated sizes.
Cordelers return again. increased In popularity and
size. These exceedingly massive, OF heavy twisted
sa1n cord and flat satin braid The sort intended 10
pass around the waist and fasten on side is az
thck huge rope; the tassels correspondngly
massive made OF beads and heavy silk twist. The
weight OF cordeer of description might exceed
four pounds.
EMBROIDERIEs
The extraordinary beauty and costllness OF the embroi
deries for dresses make them marvellous well
precedented works OF art. This exquisite work on
batise, silk muslin, ne lace and cObweb muslin ranges
width eighteen to twentyour inches OF delicate
creamy tnts or the ace5 OF this width fancy
a huge cobwcb that has caught drifting lilies, roses
vines aud falling leaves again snowf1skes and berries
worked sofest glstening creamy floss silk The silks
aud other fabrics above mentioned done in most
perfect imitation OF old aces Venetian point, Point |
Bruxelcs and Duchesse. Between the lace designs the
material is pi reed with tiny eyeet holes initiating
ace-york exqu,tely worked. of these vide IN |
descrlbahlV fin Tor the ornaneDtatOn OF dress
skirts are heavy with the large massive embroidery
upon them creamy lilies roses, other large flow
ers that also form the waving lower border The same
style Of trimmings for other portions OF the dress are
narrower though equally elaborate, and wonderfully
lcuted. These also fine cashmere, silk and |
velvet.
The ground in styles, is perfectly co gered with
open work. interseeted with the heavily embroidered
roses vines and curling teudris, thcket Of tres work.
bosses pierced with needles OF such fneness that It
like farywork. fanike Deacock's tails the deli
oious harmony OF flowing lines tendrils of Oriental
plants all softly clear. of exquisite creamy floss on cor
responding lace silk in self cOOrs other materials
without glare harshne3s Some of the shades are pale
,owslip tonqu starry primrose. The other coors
Tor the autumn embroidered to correspond IN bot
e-green, purple olive, chocolate, wIne red
strawberry red. the telegraph blue, cur copper
red, and cinnamon brown. These embroidered bands
are I'm TWO widths, for SKIRTS aud waist. Some superb
yeyet4 are covered with silk embroidery in the trailing
rose and vine pattern which Il repeated on silk some
wide silk bands OF creamy tints exquistely GIN
Jrodered IN closest imitation OF gIpdro lace others in
point lace Of open intricate patterns the pattern always
orming the edge.
BUTTONS.
Buttons no extrava yanf in style and artistic de-
ens also come in two sizes. 10 correspond with the
cut jet buttons predominant One variety
coated alloy that closely initiates the
md nigh pol al Of gold ana silver. On the plain bur
lished surface Of KIND horses head in elaborate
'epousse this is reported In the gold and silver An
,th,i open wheel work. and in tho centre small
medallion finely engraved and dclicatey Over!ald with
wire ornament others, In gold. cone AVE. slightly rides
,ent have an eagle branchcf excellent execution in
)as relief Tie most arlis ic ana desirable of the new
buttons be those of duh silver IL close imitation
u the Roman coins OF the days OF the Caesars Other
luaint styles Of 0xdizcd silver with polished silver
alton. The hgree de-igs Ia tue nn,u II
he chasing and intago work initiate that " the cOs-
ICY IL " :
nt5 4 alloys OF copper, gold ana dark green finely
beaded and carved One design IL lyre-s arcH decori-
with beadilg OF oak leaves. Oner styles copy the
Renaissance Of slight irld, sccncc; palm tree vine
lnd flowers ~ has relief.
Some t. Of brass buttons with bead WORK background
nave "a heat in has relief cor cred with tiara Oul-
nenfed With horns tlat tdrn each way an ornament IN