Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-03-01
various kinds, but hand embroidery should b:
treated more kindly, ana with greater respect

treated more kindly, ana with greater respect
Embroidered sleeves give great distinction to
drapery would only suit simple classi al design.
not one that Was much cut up or 'fussy:" En-
made patterns the old needle work and sold fan
mel patterns The lace AMI needle work designs
display the scollops, the eyelets the tiny wheels,
the stlrs, the SOU re lattice and otner we'll known
and pretty deviceS-rosei conventiOnaliZad, shaded
leaves, daisies, buttercups, and other small fiow
rose All these are executed in natural
coIo-s, but with the stiffness inseparable
from the regulation border still many OF
them are very handsome and effective. The
colors are good, the outline in the main correct,
and the natural leaves accompany each flower
cred shocking in these days when art has pro-
crossed so far as t. have given Us some idea OF
be the case few years ago, for work lnu5t follow
pattern. not nature, nature being considered an
unciviEzel object whom it was not respectable to
copy faithfully. As Tor the mounting OF artificial
flowers, beyond a general idea that tle big leaves
wert t, be put with the big flowers and the little
leaves with the little Ones there Was little care for
the strange unions effected. geranum leaves being
as often put into juxt tpo>iton with roses as those
which truly belonged to them.
The =" jude !" robe, with deep pointed bodice and
paniers draped away from a skirt puffed and
hounced, is one OF the pest Of the popular nporta
The fine dark and light tones OF the soft lovely
cloth showing to advant ge the coiors OF the EN-
brodery, which are varied and brilliant, but well
blended AM tremendously combined.
In open work patterns the dark bronze and olive
shades in self colors are most admired, and they
are also very handsome in black and almond
tints
Upon fine wool and silk greuadne the embroid-
cry represents the most exquisite lace patterns,
ana Is often executed in white or tinted white.
The needework patterns upon batIste are also,
many OF them, very beautiful, and furnish a most
worn this coming season Tor garden entertain
ments will be OF light tuff and pale blue batiste,
SIN, muslin and nuns yelling, with the deep ruff
In the self cO.OrS, in jardniere cOlOrS, and In
white.
BLACK AND WHITE.
There IS revival OF white upon black this sea-
son, which gives us many OF the effects and COM
binations that were common twenty-five years
ago. The white embroderes upon black have
been preceded by the panier diapnries OF white
Lace upon black satin and black .tin merVeflleuX
many ladies utilizing ounces in this way that had
formerly cut off the bottom of the dress. Bellies
too, who like to create sensation, have been
WeiflIg with white dreSSe; long black gloves,
black silk stockings clicked with tan brown and
red, and black sand lct shoes This innovation IS
not likely, however, to obtain to any great extent,
for the depth OF dye in the black gloves makes
them sttn and liable to leave traces on delicate
fabrics, while OF all gloves they are the least pleas
ant 10 wear, their one virtue being durability
One result OF the revival will be that small black
viSites and black lace capes and nantes will be
muslin dresses, and that split and DunSt'be straw
bonnHtS will relppear. trimmed with Dl4ck eM-
DrOidered lace or ribbon ana flowers.
TIE NEW BONNETs
The newest shape is the ''LonGon," which appeared
last fall in imported feiti under another name 1t
has high pointed crown and a wide brim which
flares and rounds up to one side. 1t can only be
profusion and OF the ostrich variety bronze
straw, for example, OF the London shape is faced
deeply with primrose satin. finished toward the
eGge with velvet OF the color of the straw, pulled
over and forming border to the brim. One very
long and wide full feathers placed at the left high
upon the exterior OF the briln and carried round,
form cluster upon the left side, two curling over
towards the front, and one being of the primrose
shade while the rest are Of the bronze. unless the
bronze In all OF them shades into primrose.
Other straw shapes reproduce les, OF the old
"Gipsy" bonnet The difficulty in regard to the
latter is that it cannot be made to look 'dressy"
that is to say, elegant; whateverits mater is may
be, IL always retains a flavor of the sun-Gonnet,
from which it seems to have grown
Straws appear in all colors but there are modi-
fled rokes in black or white, which are faced with
velvet, the edge finished with an exquisite silk
and gold braid, and the exterior with scarfs of
broidered silk muslin, and a bouquet OF mustard in
Hover or oats and small red peoples or hedge roses
that are handsome and suited to all occasions for
which summer bonnet is required. The cOOred
StrdwS are in demand, but except wi tn brown suits,
winch seem TO require hats or bonn5ts in quiet ac
cord with their subdued tone, they will be selected
without much reference to anything more than an
absolute opposition very different from contrlst)
10 the color OF the dress with which they
Very dark red straws may be worn with bronze,
black with white or buff, dark green with white
and Old gold trimmed with black.
Old Dutch ideas seem to have been drawn upon
largely to supply th!s seasons millinery, for we
nave soft cap, with ruied briln, that is an exact
copy OF headdTesS in Dutch pictures The rufe
does not lie fiat, that OF the Charlotte Corday
The CROWNS are embroidered or covered with an
embroidered tissue. The trimming Is light wreath
OF berries or flowers.
EsTHETIC IDEAS
though they cannot be said to dominate largely
influence fashion. Conventional fashion, the
fashion OF the ordinary French miiliner and dress
maker. is Of course opposed to them. They inter-
ftre with the traditional confidence repOSed in
such authorities. They teach people, and women
more especially, to think for themselves, they get
rid OF starch. Of what is artificial. They will not
permit beautiful fabrics TO be cut up into patch
work and they constantly advocate the use OF
what is true and good in material and the en-
enlargement of design based upon correct prnci-
pies Ill art. Women have usually been credited
with being the cOnservatOrs and wor5hipnerS OF
conventional forms; but this seems to b. mis-
take, one OF the many that men wilfuy make in
regard to women. 1t was men who hunted and
lampooEed the Boomer SisterhoOd; it is men who
have abused and lampooned Mr.. Oscar Wilde in
DOth cases for divergence on account of dress
Within their limits men follow their regulation
laws with a strictneSS unknown to women and
breadth. Every one must wear white neck ties,
or every one black; every one gloves no gloves
very moment the gas is lighted, but then it must
vanish like Cinderella and its place be taken by
the swallow tail! one OF the points of male attire
Is the narrow or broad eXDdnSe OF Sk rt BOSOM and
who would be seen displaying the one when the
other was demanded by fashion? Women are
criticised for throwing away questionable
garments Pity they did not! On the con-
trary they wear themselves out making
them over while men accumulate in clos.ts ami
bureau drawers vests, ties caps, and cOatS-a null
tituie that have become unwearable because
lacking quarter OF an inch. possessing that too
much. The fact is we 60 not gain much 10y mar
rowing the boundaries OF fashion. The smaller
the domain the more rigid the authority and the
more tyrannical the deSp0t. 1t is In minor details
that the prevalence Of aesthetic ideas is wide
ly seen; In the revival OF simple, antique forms:
the cultivation OF hand work the stimulus given
to pure fabric, their constant improvement, and
the dScred1t thrown upon treacherOuS and fiimSy
mixtures. They have also taught or are teaching
the public something In regard to design. and
where TO go to find the best models. Decoration
has been transformed, and it cannot fail to have q
permanent effect upon the dress OF women in the
future, for art requires that women who are so es
senti1l to it, SHALL so far they can, illustrate it.
In larger way the esthetic idea supplies an
everlasting source OF suggestion and Inspiration
for all those exceptional occasions which suggests
departure from the cOnventiOnal-such as we'd
dingS, anniversaries and the like. Is there not a
wonderful faS indLiOn about the .'early Engfsh'':
Certainly Kate Greenaway and her followers have
found their profit by 1t. 1t is the province OF ig-
nOrance to rail at originality and call it crime
We talk about originality in fashion, or rather
novelty" for which there is a perpetual demand:
but in reality the novelty is little teeter back
.l6fn Nf n 1fIraa 1il lNny.