Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1882-05-11
NAY BOSKkTs AND HATS.
The Peculiar Novelties In shape
Hats Very Large, BOnnets
Very Small.
Millinery Trade Review.

| w ltu all anu Will luc many budpte
and styles in which the millinery Of
this spring has come out, popular
taste and fancy seem to be narrowing
down to two distinct ideas, and these
are embraced in the shapes ofbonnets
and hats that are very large, and in
bonnets that are very small. The
large hats, as per recent importations
from Paris, are growing larger; late
large bonnets when regarded compare
lively are proportions considerably
magni6ed, while the capote expresses
the prevailing furore in the small
bonnet. Bonnets of medium size,
however, have not entirely disap-
peared from notice. We find them in
small numbers in all consignments
from Paris, and they are shown in the
millinery parlors of all our reliable
modistes. But for the most part they
are held in reserve for ladies OF middle
age and older, who regard the capote
as inconsequential and undignifed,
and the larger bonnets as Haunting
and audaciously coquettish. The pc
culiar novelty in hats, as far as the
shape is concerned, is a copy, in pro-
portions somewhat enlarged. OF the
style worn in the time of Francois
|. The crown is of medium hight,
quite broad, and rounding on the
edge, and the brim is broad, curling
at the sides aud dropping very little
in front and back. The trimming is
facing of velvet, and atorsade or
twist Of velvet in many folds surround
ing the crown, and held down in a
point on the front Of the brim by
long fancy metallic buckle. whish also
sustains two long, full double plumes
that sweep around the left side and
droop over the back. Or, with the
facing of velvet, the Francois | hat
trimmed with monture of feathers,
composed Of one or two long double
plumes that shadow the right side Of
the brim, and succession Of curling
tips, which nod outward from the
crown and shadow the left side of the
brim. The hat, as now seen, is far
more imposing chapeau than the
Francois | reproduction of several
years ago, and with extremists in the
mode it promised to be very popular.
An illustrative model is of brown
Milan braid, trimmed with brown
velvet and feathers. Notifications of
the Tyrolean and the Piedmontese
hats, with their semi-conical and
peaked crowns and wide hrims, are in
the list of the approved by our leaders
OF the ton. Late faneies show hats
with the crown and the brim of differ
ent colors, or of different shades of
color. A model in memory, 10 Pied
mont hat, is Of Milan braid, with the
crown in a subdued shade of peony
red and the brim OF cardinal red. The
brim is faced with velvet in peony
red and edged with a finger puff Of
velvet in cardinal red, and the trim
ming in is a monture of plumes and
tips in cardinal red, two full double
plumes, shadowing the left side of the
brim, and succession Of curling tips
springing out from the right side Of
the crown and shadowing the brim.
Velvet, it will be understood, is dis
tinctive feature in the millinery of
this season, as it is in dressmaking;
and it will be observed that the hat
trimmings, whether OF feather or
flowers, are adjusted to shadow the
brim quite as much as to smother the
crown. Many of the most beautiful
hats shown in the openings in our re-
tail houses, and those in the parlors
of our most reliable modistes, have
the crown ripped off and crown Of
velvet substituted; or leaving the
crown of Leghorn. French chip, or
English split straw, the inner half Of
the width of the brim is made of the
velvet, or an outside facing Of velvet
gives the effect OF a brim formed of
velvet and the straw braid, and for
millinery purposes the caprice of the
moment is best expressed in velvet Of
emerald-green of the liveliest shade.
An exquisite hat Of modified Braganza
shape has the crown of green velvet,
cut in single piece, and giving shape
by plating around the sides, and the
brim of the finest and most flexible
Leghorn braid The hrim is faced
with futed Oriental lace. The crown
is encircled by two rows ofrich 0rien
tai lace, Swallowed on the left
side by ostrich plumes in green and
curling tips in white. A second
hat, in which green velvet is notice
able, is Of white Manila braid, the
brim faced with the velvet, and an
outside facing Of velvet covering the
inner half Of the brm Folds of
rich Oriental lace are laid gracefully
around the crown, here and there
confined by a small French gilt pin,
and over the left side Of the brlm are
laid two full double white plumes.
Hats for street wear and general
utility are Of Manila and Milan
bTaids, in ecru tints, or the fashion
able cloth colors; and in many in.
stances they are faced with Milan
braid Of strong or Of CONTRASTING
color cardinal red, for example
facing ecru, and blue facing brown
| Velvet facing, however, is more fire.
quent, and, because of softer anC
more pleasing effect, it is more popu
lar than the facing OF straw. Tn
trimming more frequently correspond
in color with that in which the ha
appears, and it usually consists il
ostrich plumes sustained by torsad
of velvet, or monture Of plumes AM
tips. But it is matter Of taste; tn
tint or color Of the hat is many time
followed in the feathers, and feather
of mixed colors are admissible. Ros
garlands branched without foliage, o
with very little foliage, and running
, into long slender sprays Of buds
poppy garlands branched withou
, buds aud terminating in long spray
.A l.. i i Al 1