Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-11-01
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Autumn Styles for Busy Women and
Other Women Beauty and Fine
ClOfhes-Fashionsi i'm Fars and Season.
able Novelties.
From our own Correspondent.

the reason, in fact. why men are taking the
place of women as dressmakers and costume
designers. Dress has become many sided IL
represents history, classic literature. sanitary
science. physiological research, and the cropping
of an infinitely varied class of mind after beauty
per Ss-as a something by itself The average
woman drcssmaker is unframed; untaught.
She does not know enough 10 be exact even in
her copying of others-much less to be original.
As for hist 1ric i'll .as or classic ideas. she does
not know what you mcan-she follows her pat
tern. only she rarely succeeds in getting the
two sides of il alfxe and cannot move an inch
beyond her orbit
The male dTeSsrnaker has the ADVANTAGE
usually of having received a tailor apprenticeship
and sthcrefore accurate: also ne never acknowl-
edges that there IL anything he does not know:
he plunges in boldly where the more tjnid foot
steps OF woman would fear to tread although
ne may be no better acquainted with the road
than she is but the man trusts much to the
ignorance of his customers being equal to his
own. White the woman would lack the courage
TO take the riSk-perhaps feel too conscientious
TO do it. The dress question. like every other
In these days. has assumed new and complicated
Iorms and requires more thoroughly trained
1nteiligences to deal with it. Our college bred
young women rush into writing or teaching. or
DRIFT into dependence and pOverty-they will
not lower themselves as they think. by doing
housewOrk dressmakipzA We are therefore
obliged to- send abroad orfeso1t to men, and the
curious result is that our working population.
those who need work and must live by it. do
not know how to work, while those who have
been taught at all have been taught to despise
II as o means of subsistence.
In the meantime Ideas spring up in better in
struCted communities. and travel here. whether
We are ready for them or not, and the only diff
ference we realize is that we have TO pay very
nigh price for them instead of being able to sell
them to Others, we might If we originated
them ourselves. When costume society is
started with great artists at its head in order to
correct popular errors and put stop to incOn-
gruities and historical inaccuracies in dress and
fashion. the dress question must be considered
no longer as frivolous or irrational but as
belonging to the domain of Art-its place in that
domain depending of course upon the beauty
the originality. the Intelligent grasp of pOSSibili-
ties. the education of eye. hand and sense. that
Is put into it. What the future may bring to us
OF harmony and splendOr, of nobility in design
and eXaitatiOn in color. may be dimiy fore
Swallowed in what we see to-day. We may GER
tainly DEFEND upon more cheerful world. upon
brighter aspects upon the use Of lovely and
more varied color upon less funereal procession
of sad. back-rObed women. and also upon this
Introduction of light and sOftness and beauty in
essentials taking the place of the tdwdry efforts
TO brighten and animate the dizziness
and coarseneSs of our present standard
The dress question is rapidly dfferentiating
itself and assuming the same aspect for some
women that it does for men. For the profess
sOnai woman of tO-day-the woman worker
fashion does not exist any more than for men,
Her needs are as Imperative and as uniform as
those OF men. and demand dress at all times
that is.quiet, unobtrusiye and gives little
trouble Get rid of the frequent changes and
temporary caprices, and the dress of the
woman is superior in comfort in many respects
to that of the man. She can dress herself more
evenly. with more warmth and regard to
changes in the weather. The single obstacle
(the skirt to rapid lOcOmOtion is just now as
little OF hinderance as possible, for it can be
made without flOuncing punching. or tie back,
and as both men and women are preudiced i'm
favor of skirts for women they must continue
TO be accepted and kept within the bounds of
reasOn-if that can be done.
BEAUTY BEAUTIFULLY DRESSED.
Beauty unadorned stands very little chance
nowadays by the side of plainness splendidly
adorned yet there never was time when
beauty acknowledged to possess right
diyiner. to be and only to be, than now. Beauty
patent TO the eyes of men Is dover as rich as
mines of wealth can confer, and a gift more
potent than that of genius. But it has to be
stamped and labelled to be recognized. for the
average of mankind are destitute of standards
ana dance TO the popular tune. whatever that
may happen to be. Still. after all is said and
done, beautiful woman. beautifully dressed. is
lar OBJECT TO look upon and worth taking
some trouble to see. This draws the crowd to
the feet OF Mrs Langtry- Her mmetic art can
not be so line as that of Sarah Bernhardt, but
anu her UreSS are q SuInclent study.
Men VIII go to see the woman; women will 90
TO see her clothes. point Of difference exists
between Mrs Langtry and her leading support
Miss Nate PattisOn. Mrs. Langtry's dresses are
made in Paris: Miss PattisOn's in London Prob
ably Miss Pa1tlSOn's do not equal Mrs. Langtry's
In cost, but they afford an opportunity to Judge
OF the tit and style of London dressmaking
English ladies are charged with dressing vilely.
and While London tailor is a synonym for ele-
gance and the perfection of taste London
GrpSSmaker n a ri irra-
trievably to vulgarity and dOwdyism Now if
this was true ten years ago, it is not true to-
day. and Miss PattisOn's wardrobe made en-
tirely by London house, will fully bear out
the assertion. Her first dress as Mrs No,.tres-
sor. In the Unequal Match" Is of ruby velvet
and salmon pink satin, with brocaded front and
roping OF pearls; high collar edged with pearls;
salmon pink vest. The second dress is prim
rose gown of terra Gotta broeade. a very soft
ground shade, with bouquets of wild flowers
tied all over IT, 1t is lined with terra Gotta
satin and trimmed with full jabOt of tinted
Flanders lace down its entire length 1t is
worn over petticOat of white silk ruffied with
ivory lace. The irst dress in AS You
Like IT, IN which she takes the part OF
Celia. is OF electric blue cashmere. and
satin Killed; coat bodice with inserted vest
Of white silk covered with lace: large white hat
and feathers. The second dress worn is a pure
canary-colOred satin. brocaded in q very grace
hui curied feather pattern The front is draped
ever pleated satin petticOat striped with white
let and pearl embroidery. The sides are looped
with ropes OF pearls. and from one is suspended
pouch covered with pearl network The
edge of the skirt is cut in Oyer-pleated satin
and lace. The bodice has a marquse collar
edged with pearls. and the sleeves are very
pretty They are open on the back the entire
length. and tied over full under-sleeves of mus
lin with silk shoe laces with silver tags CetiG's
forest dress is an excellent model for a fancy
dress IL consists of peacock blue and bright
red cashmere; blue bodice and sleeves slashed
with white muslin; white hemstitched collar
and cuffs; leather pouch.
Mrs Langtrys dresses are q secret as vet.
They are said 10 have been made expressly for
her American engagement, and whatever she
may be a. an actress, she is mistress of the art
Of dressing; so that her Clothes will be legiti-
mate objects of interest. Historic parties pri-
vate theatricals and fancy dress entertainments
are TO be in great form this year. and many the
ater clubs have been formed OF Young ladies
who, with sufficient male escort to save appear-
ances, intend to see Mrs. Langtry in every part
she assumes, for the sake of studying her COS.
Tunes.
EVENING TOILETS.
White Is not used so much this year as fol