The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1882-09-29
[Harpor's Rasar.l
New York Fashions.

AT this moment the chief topic Of interest is
the materials for Autumn and Winter dresses.
We have been permitted to inspect these IN
some of our leading houses, and will proceed to
describe the results of our visit There are still
numerous chine wool goods, with small party
colored plaids; pointilles, in the English fash
ion; and lastly, ribbed or repped cloth, with
slender threads of color, which makes very
stylish suits
AS regards colors, groseile on dark green,
blue on dead leaf, cachou, ansadou, GEORGE
d'Gr6re, hussar blue, and al the gradatio"s Of
olive predominant. Checks in two eolors, or
else in three shades arranged in Mosaic fashion
OF which the whole suit may be made il de-
sired; mscaroons, or large round spots, plain or
chine, on chime or plain ground large black
brocaded figures on wood-color, sea-wsed, or
sienna ground, may be used with plain stuff
harmonizing in color. The skirt and waist
are made of the plain material, while the cape,
vest, revers, and sometimes tho entire sleeves,
are of the figured stuff. 1t is the same with
the brocades and satins with immense flowers
or leaves on plaid ground; the flowers some
times have all the colors of the rainbow.
Very pretty costumes will DO made Of wool
len brocatelle, straw on wood-color or medium
blue, gIoseille or olive on black, ETC.; these
stnffs, combined with satin or faiIle, mako ell
egant visiting toilettes. Embossed velvets will
continue to be in favor, and embossed borders
are prepared that are sold with dress patterns
to be used as trimmings; these are oftcn in i'm
tation of lace embroidery on network ground.
We have also seen very rich and elegant bro
caded pushes designed to serve as trimmings
for silk and velvet. Then there arc also each
emires woven with raised figures, which are
also designed as trimmings to the accompany
ing dress patterns, for they are 100 costly to
serve for the chief part OF the costume.
1t is too early TO speak definitely about
changes Of fashion. The indications are that
there will be no great transformations. We
will cite an Autumn costume just made ct one
of our best houses of fine dDlddou cloth. The
skirt has tablier formed of pleatings and
puffs The overskirt is of the same material,
open halfway up in front, and drawn back
from the tablier. The close-dtting corsage to
match is covered at the bottom by black Su-
rah scarf. which is tied behind The sleeves
are tight, the bottom being hidden by the long
black kid gloves, which are drawn over them
A black lace scarf is tied round the neck on
one side, and fastened by flower. Gainsbor.
ough hat, trimmed with black silk.
Wide white embroidery continues 10 be much
worn for Autumn soirees For example, skirt
OF seal brown faille is entirely covered with
three deep hounces of heavy open-work en-
broidery, with raised figures. A ruche OF
pleated fallle on the bottom was ALI that
showed the material of the skirt. Corsage of
seal brown velvet, very closely fitting, with
short basques in front, and position and pouf
bow AZ the back. This combination Can be va
ried In many ways with different colors-stufs,
embroide ries, or lRces, etc.-and is always very
pretty.
Nothing is as yet decided concerning hats
and bonnets, and youthful danes and young
girls will probably continue to wear the round
shapes that are SO pretty and becoming when
they are not exaggerated. Fashion is In . toll
Grant mood there are no cast-iron rules or sud-
den changes, and we pass by an imperceptible
transition from one style TO another, ieav ng
full scope for the indulgence of individual
whims and fancies. For instance, We may
mention the Mithridates hat, of Turkey red,
which is species of helmet, and tho Phfyg-
ian cap, projecting far over the face, in tn
recesses of which we have been astonished to
discover an elegant young belle.
We have already spoken Of the rage for SOU
tsche embroidery that will prevail during the
coming winter. We will instance a pretty Pc
lisse, both stylish and simple, of dead leaf Al.
gerian cloth, with printed designs Stimulating
soutache embroidery. The shape is loose in
front, the sides being draped under position
basques with velvet bows. Sleeves q Il UieiHe,
trimmed on the bottom with velvet bands; q
similar band Is set on to form collar, and I'm
ished with bow. 1t is the fashion to line
these large wrappingS with Sursh, either
cbaDgeable or else Scotch plaid or striped in
colors harmonizing with that of the pelisse.
The embroideries that ar now used for trim
miuSs hfo duuliEhuly VOL duapt6Q lOf all KINGS
of combinations. There are lustreless and op-
en-work brocaded figures that are cut out and
applied on the plain stuff, and then edged with
soRtache embroidery, which finishes the de-
sign; then there are embroideries OF gray steel
chenille, mixed with steel beads; and others OF
acorn-colored chenille, with brownish beads
which harmonic well with navy blue, etc.,
etc. Applied velvet figures will also be mixed
with embroidery. Ombre braid or GALLON may
be used very effectively in clusters of seversl
rows. with slender gold cord between; this
will make stylish trimming for skirts, corsag-
es, scaris. and even wrappings
We will conclude with economical sug-
geston. Ladies who chance to have an old
fashioned Empire or Stella shawl with large
plain centre or border, can convert it with lit
Tie trouble int stylish wrap. If the ground
is black, it can be arranged in visite fashion,
with the border around the edge and on the
bottom of the Russian sleeves, and also down
the middle of the back. II the ground isivory
or blue, it can be transformed by tho same
process, into an elegant carriage wrap.