The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1882-09-30
Early Autumn Costumes.

Readers are advised to select for their
earliest autumn costumes solid colOrs,
ana use the simplest designs sent over
from Paris. For instance, get Sicilienne,
ottoman wool reps, or cashmere of a
dark shade of brown, green or red, for
the corsage and drapery of what appears
TO be a princeSSe dress, but really is a
cuirass corsage with the skirt entirely
separate and attached below the hips by
great hooks that catch on loops sewed to
the waist. If the waist is Sicilienne,
the skirt may be of plush or velvet of
the same shade, and for a brides WIS.,
1tlng costume, or her travelling suit in
which she is to be married; this will be
best of golden brown, darker seal
brown, or the new electric blue. The
basque should be fitted smoothly over
the hips without any pleating added in
the back seams and should be ''round
basque''-that is, of even length all
around, instead of being shortened on
the hips or heightened in the back, This
basque of Sicilienne has Breton vest
OF the same laid in very fine pleats as
Tar up as the top of the first dart, then
let fall in loose soft puff, gathered in at
the neck, and finished there with q
double standing ruffle of Sicilienne that
should extend all around the neck. The
Breton vest, it will be remembered, be-
gins on the right side and laps to the
.left, hiding the buttons that fasten the
fronts of the waist On the edges of the
vest, concealing where it begins, is a
plush revers that extends all the way up
around the back of the neck; the edges
of this revers meet at the waist line and
are scalloped on the inner side and cord
ed with Sicilienne. For this vest Sici-
lienne ive-eights of a yard wide is used,
and the fine pleats, fatty pressed and
much Tapped, are twenty in number. A
dropping fringe-like ornament of passe-
menterie balls falls below the throat
across this vest, and similar ones are
on the plush cuffs, directly over the back
drapery, and on each hip below the
plush pockets. The plush skirt, with
one side gore, front gore and straight
back breadth, is cut out around the
lower edge in deep narrow scalIops-
six inches long and two inches wide
and these are bordered with Sicilienne;
these scallops fall on a boX-pleated plush
balayeuse, The hip drapery of Sicilienne
represents short full panierS in three
lengthwise box-pleats, with the edges
turned under in q puff. On the plain
part are pockets of plush-long, narrow,
with bias corners-and the fringe passe-
menterie below.
For plain cloth dresses made at home,
Hercules braid two inches wide is the
trimming. These should have habit
basque only two inches deep on the sides,
sharply pointed in front, and with the
long square middle forms of the back
held in two double box pleats A row
of black Hercules braid is across these
box pleats, while the other edges of the
basque are corded. Two rows of braid
outline a vest up the front, and are
pointed to form cuffs, The standing
cadet collar is of velvet the color of the
cloth, and dull old silver carved buttons
faSten the waist. The lower part of the
skirt has lengthwise tucked tlounce
half yard deep, with only its upper
half tucked, and the lower part falling
in loose pleats over a boX-pleated balay-
euse. The apron over-skirt is draped on
the lower skirt, and its edges are sewed
underneath at the head of the tucked
tlounce. The front is much wrinkled
and has five rows of Hercules braid
lengthwise from the belt to the edge.
Over this is worn a jacket mantle, This
is a partly fitted sleeveless jacket, with q
mantle drapery that falls low over the
arms like Dolman, 1t has a deep
Byron collar of velvet, satin strings to
tie at the throat, and two rows of wide
braid for trimming, This costume,
made of old green cloth with many
parallel rows of black soutache, or of
invisible blue with black wide Hercules
braid, or of golden brown cloth with
the brighter fcelle-colored braid, will be
simple and stylish choice for the first
cold autumn weather. A turban of En-
glish straw, with velvet brim trimmed
with many cocks plumes, and one or
two small, meek, sad-looking doves, or
else sea-swallows, in front, should be
worn with it.-Harper's Bazar.