Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1882-01-13
THE HEIGHT OF FASHION.
Styles Of Garments in Which
Fashionable Women Now Ar
rays Herself.
FASHION NOTES.

TUT CuuICu, CdIIldSc, duu flolJluS
purposes are medieval costumes,
heavy and magnificent, with embossed
figures in relief, sewn on instead of
being woven in the material. Original
suits are those with numerous designs
cut out of Venetian leather, cloth or
satin, and applied on plush, velvet and
cloth, or the same conceits are illus
trated in jet, iridescent and illumi-
mated beads in applique on the most
costly plain fabrics, and again in bro
cades the figures and flowers are out
lined with the beads, and pendants of
the same sparkling, luminous orna-
ments drop from the center of the
exquisite designs.
EVENING ROBES.
An evening or opera cloak is in dol
man shape, with defined cape in the
back. The fabric is white brocade
and trimmed in an applique of the
same beads-seed and Roman pearls
and crystals-used in the dress, and
a fringe of the same with chenille
edges the sleeves and bottom of the
wrap.
Many of the styles for young and
new married ladies have been
adopted to suit certain faces and fig
ures from old time pictures of re-
nowned artists. The favored colors are
dark ruby, with very pail pink, purple
with gray, rose and pale blue, and roy
al purple with gold.
Shrimp pink is one Of to-day's RACES,
and a very pretty shade it is. One
toilet in this color is entirely of satin,
with embroidery in seed and Roman
pearls and crystal beads. The other
has the dress of pink silk very heavy
and rich, with plaitings and rufies Of
the fabric aud front and decorations of
a v%ariously colored oriental fabric,
which is perfectly radient, but as in
describable as the luminous statistics
in some jeweled cave. This dress is
further garnished with exquisite point
duchess lace.
Most unique and beautiful is an.
evening robe of brocade in delicate
blue, with floral designs, silver
threaded, and old English thread lace
arranged over silvery white satin. The
basque, of brocade, is finished with lace
and sprays Of roses, and the low-cut
corsage, to be worn for the ball after
the days receptions, shows a Spanish
centufe Of brocade, with a p~rofusion of
lace above, and in this lace bed are
garlands of all manner of full-blown
roses in all the exquisite garland c%olors,
while upon each shoulder and in
center of front are beautiful humming
birds, lowering over the flowers on
flexible feet. The superb train is of
the blue and silver brocade, and is
arranged in Wstteau plat and entirely
without trimming. The satin front
and sides of skirts are covered with
lace draperies and cascades. Garlands
OF robes fall down sides and cross front;
tropical birds, most brilliant in
plumage, red and blue, are at the side,
and a bird of paradise and an Impeyan
head are upon the flowers in front,
and are partly covered by a deep fall
of lace. Silver ornaments, with dia-
monds, are to be worn on neck, head,
arms, and in ears of the charming lady.
DANCING DRESSES.
For ball dresses tulle is much used,
and it is very pretty. Some idea as 10
how the airy dresses are made can be
conveyed in this description. Backs
are draped in diaphanous clouds,
fronts are of plated AOunces; scarf
%tunics, with ends falling gracefully at
the back, are made in either velvet,
satin or watered silk. Bodices are
cut with many seams, very short on
the hips, the fronts pointed or round
ed, the backs describing points, the
sleeves short, the bodices low or low
square. On some of the silks and
gauzes most exquisite trimmings are
used, as a deep Aounce of clear white
crepe lisse, embroidered all wei with
thick white silk, in design transparent
enough to show the color of the dress
through. Another garniture is a lacey
gauze, covered wei with iridescent
beads, which is very brilliant.
An exqisite dancing dress is of
cream surah satin and MORE. The
bodice is of watered silk, with cream
lace arranged in box plaits up the
arms from the wrist and to form a
collar found the throat, and then mar
row strips of feather trimming are
laid on. A deep red rose nestles in
the feathers in front Of the corsage.
The skirt has two deep aounces, put
on in wide box plaits, and a narrow,
perpendicular strip Of feather trim
mings is laid in the center of each
alternate plat. At the top of the
other iounces is folded a white scarf
of satin surah, loOped at the back and
lined with MORE. The gloves match
the color of the feathers, as do also
the hose, but the shoes are of bronze,
with cream lace fnishings.
Very dressy is this toiletfor a young
married lady. The tablier is of
apricot silk, put on in puffs and
founces, alternating with deep ruf1es
of white lace, the pointed bodice and
plain train, which is fastened on the
waist in pulled, tunio shape, are Of
pansy colored velvet. Pearl embroid-
cry decks the front Of the corsage and
the Queen Elizabeth collar and the
sleeves are edged with rare old rose
point lace.
Very rich is a dress of ruby satin,
with a stylish princes waistcoat Of
pale pink satin, embroidered with
roses and foliage in the moss and olive
shades. The bodice, drapery and
train are also embroidered with small
multiaora roses, buds and foliage, and
the dress is finished with point de
Venice lace. .
One dress is composed entirely of
hand wrought Spanish lace, over satin,
both materials being in rich, almost
..lJau IL. H. tu.s II