Morning journal and courier., 1882-03-21
The Fashions.

From the New York Sunday HmSs.l
 Quite a variety of new spring goods is al- ready on view. The ''tissus chardons' have a winter heavy appearance when used over dark rather fabrics, but produce quite a diff ferent effect over light materials. There handsome glazed surahs and striped or plain satin merveilleux covered with small light silk balls like missiles, which move with the least breeze. The various and beautiful tints and different forms of these thistles constitute their great charm. One of these toilets is of sapphire blue and gold-colored surah glace, with the front of the skirt of "surah char dor'' with many colored tufts. On the lower part of the skirt are five narrow glace surah hounces with heading on the top one. On the upper part of the skirt Is baby sash, falling down the back in two broad ends ly- ing one over the other. Under each of these is broad band of old-gold colored satin ar ranged to initiate double flaps. The pointed waist opens down the front, and is plaited on the lower part of the back. Aronnd the basque, collar and cuffs Is a double "surah chardon'' trimming, forming a fringe of tufts.
 Faille is again to be in general use, which it has not been for some time past As it IS serviceable and economical, it Is quite a wei come addition to the spring styles. Round capes and mantles are used on all occasions. They serve when larger garments are too heavy and when the weather Is not warm enough to dispense with an outer garment With failIe or mixed cachemire and faille suits, small plush capes may be worn, lined with satin. Among other new spring goods are fine checked materials in two shades Foulards of this kind were in wear some sea sons past, but the materials at present for these cheeks are surah, surah satin. or ''rhadames, " which is about the same article The best combinations of color are pink or blue, and wood color, wood color and seal | ! Is1-t ] II II ''tete de negre." With each checked materi- al corresponding plain goods are to be had the latter serving for bias bands, revers, ! vests and plastrons. The waists, which are l of the checked goods, have not the disadvan- l tage of those with large checks, as the fine ones do not enlarge the figure. Surah dress es of this kind have trimmings of bias velvet or of satin and moire. The lower parts of skirts have full ''chicoree" trimmings. These can be used on light fabrics as well as satin, velvet and striped plush.
 Short ''levites'' are to be much worn by | young ladies. They consist of a short man s coat, with a small standing collar and are quite different from English. jackets, which are more like the weston" The Dorsay levite, with a full skirt, Is very stylish; 1t is difficult to make and still more difficult to wear, and will consequently retain it's cachet and not become common. This garment 1 closes at the waist by means of two buttons, showing underneath vest of satin, plush, l velvet or moire. The vest can be changed for different occasions. The prettiest shades for these leyites are light brown, steel color, blue mouse color and Russian green, in plain cloth or in cloth with various colored shades. The revers and vests are of moire. French moire and striped pekinees moires will re- place plush as the season advances.
 For plain walking and travelling suits, gray ish blue goods, with red or brick-red satin cordings, are very becoming, and much pref erable to the old fashioned shades, such as garnet and wine color. Gray cloth levites are bordered with narrow folds of satin in two colors. The vest may be of moire or satin.