Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-03-17
RAMBLES IN THE TROPICS.
FROM NASSAU TO VERA CRUZ.
Beauties of New Providence - The
Queen of the AntIlles-Charms and
Delights of HaVana-The ReaIing
Place of COlumbus-The Caves of
BslIamar-A New Town in Yuca.
tan-CampeachY-O 10 Mexico.


Place of COIumbus-The Caves of
Bsllamar-A New Town in Yuca.
tan-CampeachY-On 40 Mexico.
STEAMSHIP City OF ALEXANDRIA GULF OF
MEXICO, February 22-Editor Morning Netcs:
Washington's birthday finds US in the Gulf, en-
route to Mexico. 'Tis pleasant to know that
Washington has birthday so far away. Every
one at table to-day drank each to their own
sovereign and Geo. Washington. The party of
which we are member is composed of repre-
sentatives from all parts Of the United States,
and all are under the personal care of Mr.. H.
A. Callan. of the firm Of Leve & Alden. The
present excursion is the pioneer Of personally
conducted tours through this wonderfully
strange land, and, judging from the perfect
success that has attended this one, we predict
many more will follow. From first to last it
has been one continual round of most exquisite
pleasure, the best accommodations the best
hotels-in fact, the best of everything. The
cities through which we have passed have
been at our disposal The party itself is COM
posed of the very best element of American
society, and fortune has indeed smiled upon
us from first to last After leaving the st.
Johns, our first stopping place was Nassau.
Many of your readers know from experience
what a pleasure awaited us as we steamed
into that beautiful bay. The bay presents
one of the most charm ng of sights, with the
brilliant shading of the waters, pea green,
dark green, blue, purple, all contrasting with
each other and producing an effect so beauti-
tul that the pen OF man fails to convey any
adequate conception Of its wonderful enchant-
| ing loveiness. On nearing the town we see
host of negro boys diving in the water and
making their way out to meet the ship Then
Onn Of fhO rS0nc OTrin Of cfrsl
cast small pieces of money in the water and
| down go the little rascals after Them and it is
rare that the money gets to the bottom before
1t is seized. The water is so clear that one can
| see the silver as it sinks we'll as the half
naked blacks as they fight with each other for
the possession of the lucre deep down in the
depths 1t is like a fairy tale-the glitterlDg
water of many colors, the tropical shore with
the whitest, cleanest Of towns nestled on the
hillside, all surprise and delight the traveller,
as ne considers the fact that we are only two
| days travel from home
On disembarking we were conducted to the
Royal Victoria Hotel where supper fit for the
| gods was spread before us on spotless linen.
The afternoon was devoted to driving and
walking about town and a visit to old Fort Fin
castle, an old fortification built in the form of
side-wheel steamer, and dating back to 1889.
The old fort Is now only used as signal sta
ton.
The shades of night are falling fast, and as
they fall motley crowd Of jolly darkies gather
in front OF the hotel with their musical instru-
ments, and the evening is spent watching the
antics of the amateur minstrel company. Cal.
Wagner could well take lessons Of this troupe.
The next morning walk to the market to
see the many -colored fish well paid us for the
trouble, and after breakfast trip with Captain
Sampson to the sea gardens was in order.
How can ever describe this, to us, new Won
der? Leaning over the edge of the boat, with
water glass, we see the many -colored sea
fans waving on the bottom among the corals
and sponges. Our divers are on hand, and,
stripping to the waist. down they go to the
bottom, bringing up many lovely specimens.
Returning from the sail. we take drive to
the suburbs, enjoying with exquisite delight
the various phases OF life, both animal and
vegetable, in this charming retreat.
On board the Western Texas, we steam away
to Havana, the capital of the Gem of the An
tilles-and gem IL itself Two days sail and
we sight the shores of Cuba. the mountain
ranges showing up as though forming part of
a chain of clouds hanging over the horizon.
AS the shores become more distinct they look
smoky and dim. AS we coast along we gradu-
ally draw nearer until the tall royal palm and
cocoanut trees are outlined against the clear
azure sky. Old Moro Castle is made cut, and
as it becomes more distinct what memo
ries crowd upon the mind. Grim and defiant,
it stands on the solid rock, and as it frowned
down upon us we think of the many heart
sick wretches who have been buried in it's dun
geons in days gone by. The bay of Havana, in
which we are slowly steaming, is
a fine harbor, with plenty of water. Moro
/ Castle extends from the east outer point
far up. covering a large space. The town
Of Casa Blanca continues the view on
place for the old slavers TO anchor To the
west the city of Havana becomes more and
more distinct until the whole city spreads out
before us in one grand panorama. Down come
the many small craft with mutton sails sur
rounding us as soon as we anchor. The Health
Officer calls on us, and after he has looked us
over we crowd into the boats and tuck our
selves away under the canvas awning stretch
ed over wooden bows.
On lauding. the custom house officials over
haul our baggage, but not so close as is the
RYTCfn In hA I'D Afnfn Vii
maity over, we HE away to the Hotel Tele-
graphic. The streets through which we pass
are narrow and filed with dense population
AS we get up town the streets widen, and beau
tiful parks allied with tropical luxuriance, meet
the view, reminding one Of the fact that he is
indeed in strange land. with hardly a land
mark left to remind us of the States. Mules
and horses loaded down with huge packs, one
animal tied to the others TAIL meet us at every
turn. The one-horse coaches stand
on every corner-a most convenien MT
custom. No hack driver importunes YOU.
but seated on his box he dozes away his time
| until you rouse him. For forty cents, Cuban
scrip, he drives you to any part OF the city, or
for 81 50 per hour he will drive you all day
AS 81 gTeenback y i'll buy 81 rs to 81 so Cuban
scrip, you can readily see the charges are not
high. was surprised to see how rapidly we
were driven from place to place. Heat does
not count with these Cuban horses All day
and all night these equipages are dashing
about was not able to learn whether they
ever rested or not. AT the Hotel Telegrapho
we were introduced to the proprietor by our
Havana conductor, Senior Edwarda Smyrk. a
prince Of interpreters and guides. sumptu-
our repast awaited us And here let me add
that during our stay in Havana the table was
rnshed in a style equal to any in the States
After supper Mr.. Smyrk took us in charge. and
for four deyS we were flying about Havana
and MatanZas in first-class shape. The streets
of the city of Havana present a most beautiful
sight at night At five the gas is lit. and so
numerous are the lamps that it is almost as
light as day. They are not extnguished until
daylight. We reached Havana the day before
the Mardi Gras carnival, and everything par
took of gayety and mirth The next day-Sun
day--we all visited the churches like every
body else, after which we followed every
body else's example and went out on the
prado to see the carnival AS the long line of
equipages passed us counted until was tired
and the resul of the count was as fol-
lows: Carriages with occupants ma, ked. 1.150;
private carriages Zone and two horses) 405: four
horse teams, 8; tandems, II; six horse teams,
1; making total Of 525, which estimate was
about half. The masking was nothing out of
the common, but the gay assemblage, the fine
horses the happy faces, all made uD a charm
ing sight.
In the evening the grand Bal Masque at the
Casino or Spanish club is the proper thing. All
of Havana's best and choicest brands of society
are there. The club house is very fine an i'm
mense room in the shape of letter IL, "
with theatre at one end and is filed with gay
maSkers, full to the brim with gayetV and fun
The shapey foot of the Cuban lady shows to |
good advantage in the tightly fitting, high
heeled shoe. The dance "a waltz must have |
Oe6u IAauo LOT Juo climate. III Is a very SLOW, |
graceful movement. pausing and resting after |
each strain of music. In other words as the |
music continues, the dancers skip every other |
strain, stopping short in the dance to chat. |
and then continuing the dance where they left |
off, only to stop again exactly on time
After leaving the Casiuo the gentlemen OF |
the party called at the Tacoon Opera House, |
where grand ball masque of the lower classes |
initiate the upper. Here the scene changes. |
Trouoadours sing and play. The lascivious /
dances of the Orient are seen, and wild goes the
finn and mirth. One strange thing noticed with |
that great mass of the lowest of Cuban society |
numbering some four thousand people-not |
one oath did W. hear nor a single disturbance |
of any kind and, Furthermore, during our |
entire stay in Havana we did not see a drunken /
man, nor even person arrested by the police
can safely say that / never visited more |
orderly city.
visited the next day. 1t is surrounded by the |
botanical garden and beautiful to the extreme |
with its avenues of royal palms and lovely |
variegated flora.
The cemetery, with its quaint curious burial |
places engaged our attention, and the drive or |
cerro is equal if not superior, to our own shell |
rOa 9
The Cathedral of st Ignatius, where the re- |
mains of Columbus rest, is point of rare In /
enough to be allowed to inspect the vestments. |
many of which are very elaborate and costly, |
set with gems Of great value. The chancel and |
altar are situated under a dome of great /
beauty To the right, you face the altar in /
the dome you see fresco of 'sOur Saviour I
Healing the Sick" On the left opposite. The |
Last Supper" Between the two the ''Virgin |
Mary Ascending to Heaven" In front of the
dome and on the ceiling of the church is a large |
rarraea nt a ffou Of the All-Saaine Fua 10 tho