Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1882-08-27

ClIul OUes. w ueu tie IduTiC u, ~ sSi
light one the bodice is often gauyeC
over the shoulders and ut the waist line
Most of the bodices are half open, witt
a pleated plastron which can be taker
off at pleasure.
Plaids will be very popular, but noi
the check plaids or those defined by
solid bars of contrasting colorS, but the
new plaids show a solid ground in tht
bronze, the new blue, green, brown
and garnets, divided and subdivided
by feathery or mixted lines of bright,
dark and light hues, cardinal, old and
bright gold, black, white and contrast
ing colors. .,--r
For afternoon or reception purposes Is
a toilette of reddish eopper-colOred satin
and floral broeade. The skirt all round
is formed of the satin, and Is garnished
with alternating fiounces of satin and
brOcade. The pointed jacket bodice, OF
plain satin, is bottomed at the left side
and garnished with. small stand-up
collar and drapery Across the bodice OF
the Powered brocade, to match the
cuffs. Knotted scarf of the brocade.
. A stylish. simple dinner toilette is OF
fincly-striped rosewood and light gray
shot silk, puffed on one side at the foot,
with bow of mahogany-red velvet,
and covered on the other with narrow
gathered fiounces pinked out round the
edge; the bodice is peaked and trim-
med shawl fashion with old yellow
guipure, the front forming a vast OF
gathered light gray satin; short basques
with a putting at the back.
One of the new travelling cloaks is OF
thin gray cloth and is novel in forma-
ton. 1t has deep Killed skirt, which
is very convenient for walking and
sitting. The edges are all fiuised by a
silk cord to match, or Of a contrasting
color, and the fancy hood is lined with
striped silk or satin. The Hubbard
sleeves and front are finished by bows,
and handsome bow and ends orna-
ments the end of hood at back.
Underskirts are still made narrow,
trimmed with fiounces at the back, and
lace or acknowledgement fiOunce
round the foot; they should not be too
stiffly starched. The petticoat is short,
Just meeting the edge of the balayeuse,
which forms several rows of ftounces
under the skirt, beyond which it should
hardly show at all. The pett'oat of
sura h is made either plain or l,,eated,
or else gagged half way Up about five
inches deep, and very clinging at the
top. Its only trimming is lace border
round the foot.
Most novel is the "Connaught" CO.'S
tune, which is composed of sapphire
blue foulard and trimmed with ecru or
cream cOlored lace. The skirt trimmed
with two f1ounces the Breton lace,
divided by puff of the material, is dn-
ished at the bottom with a narrow
box-pleated tlounce. The polanaise of
sapphire blue is fitted well to the figure ;
the drapery is crossed at the side and
finished at the back with pulled and
rounded end, and edged with lace. The
bodice is buttoned down in front; the
chemisette and ruffies at the wrists are
composed of ecru Indian muslin.
The Jackets for early fall wear both
for in and out of doors come in count
less variety of styles. The Newmarket
is as much in favorat ever. 1t is stylish
and elegant and can be made i'll any
material. Velvet garnshei with
metal buttons shaded To match
the mixed tints in the clio 4 or
plain in a good contrasting slade,
are all in good taste. The
duchess is another Out-of-doOr5 ] ;cket ;
it must fit the figure to perfection. For
i'll door wear the long-waisted bodi ce,
pointed back and front o. finished at
the back with Il jocky basque, is in
equal favor.
Lace is worn in quantities and with
all materials. The lace now varies
much from the lace Of the past, and
the term lace includes heavy trim
ming made of fine pack-t thread for garn-
ishing linen, cambria and wooden
dresses and other varieties to very
beautiful and fine lace. Belgian laces
in particular are extremely fashionable
in buff white, ivory or cream color, III
large much-raised pattern over trans
parent ground, reasonable ing fine canvas
Dresses of light-cOlOred satin or surah
are literally covered with lace OF this
kind. 1t is used cut from the piece in
flounces, draperies and paniers and Or
namented with great many bows Of
colored ribbon.
The styles of this month will be favor
ed this coming fall and even during
the winter. Various fashion authori-
ties give their individual ideas rs to
what these styles are, and sometimes
the statements conflict, but in one
point almost all agree, and that is the
great degree of fullness over the hips,
which is attained 10y adding to the
bodice pulled or pleated paniers and
draperies; that is, when they are at all
full, for there are dresses entirely diff,
ferent in style, for instance, those with
skirt pleated from top to bottom,
without any trimming beyond plain
scarf crossing it over the hips and tied
behind, or else, instead OF scarf,
mere silk cord placed in the same way,
and appearing to fasten down tine
pleats. This kind of skirt is made
round, not too narrow. At the foot be.
hind or at the sides or else both behind
and mt the sides, the skirt is slit open
in the shape of a pleated gore, and
shows a simulated underskirt Of diff
ferent material and color. Some O
these short skirts have the lower par
ola different material, which simu
lates a large. nurses apron, open be
hind from the waist to the edge. In
this latter case a putting similar to the
lower part fills up the opening.