Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-12-01
THE WINTER FASHIONS.
HOW To COMBINE WARMTH
WITH LEAST CLOTHING.

Notwithstanding of the Children's
Renaissance.
NEW YORK, Nov. 9O.-The most noticeable
change in dress is one that is hardly visible to
the careless observer. 1t is the decided ideas
women are beginning to entertain on the sub
jet, the gradual release from the doQmatism
rsef-cOnstituted authorities and the stronger
and truer artistic feeling-that is, desire To
carry out a single idea in a single costume or
garment, and not weaken or destroy il bv the
introduction of disturbing influence. l have
often alluded in these letters to the ten
dency TO mix colors, fabrics, elements
IN design, and the like-nOt in such
way as to produce harmony, but disorder and
confusion Of fragmentary ideas. 1t is difficult
even yet 10 diferentiate the true form. the
simple unitary design, the natural tints and
graduation or complex harmonies Of color, from
the patchy substitutes which catch the eve Of
the initiated and give them the impression of
getting more style as well as more material
for their money. \ simple example Will serve.
The finest and most expensive cloth jackets
and suits are plain or only enriched by hand
stitching or wOrk-to have the cuffs, collars
and pockets Of silk or velvet, vulgarizes in
stead Of enhancing the appearance; but the
cheap buyer always wants these additions and
the more conspicuously hostile they are to the
material upon which they are grated. the
more the article will be likely to strike her
fancy.
The effort on the part Of the best authorities
and most tasteful women of the present is to
mass single effects and leave them undis-
turDed. or to work out more complicated
idea, with due regard to the laws of circum-
stance ana proportion, so that the result shall
be as In the first instance harmonious and
satisfying, while giving evidence of the exer-
else Of more thought and skill. The street
90 N.HNa .us.e- L .n..NH
htted- The evening dress of silk or satin is
OVERLAND with priceless lace and beaded en-
brOlderies or net work. The walking dress is
as dark and unObtrusive as that of the man
The home and evening dress is not only COM
posed Of the lightest and brightest cOlOrs, but
reflects all that exists on the earth, in the air
in the sky, or in the water.
The same tendencies are seen in head gear
There are hats and bOnnets of tweed and soft
er cloth, with a rOsette Of small folds of the
material for ornament, or birds wing: and
there are tiny bOnnets which look like one i'm
mense jewel or like aigrette of feathers. with
diamond star in it. There are small turbans
and English walking hats made Of the feathers
! OF the barn yard fowl laid one over another,
and there are cavalier and Rubenesque hats
| OF velvet or fur, with a small fortune upon
I them in the shape of broad magnificent Os-
trlch plumes. Two distinctive elements may
appear in a costume. but they must be arrang-
I ed artlstically and architecturally, not in an
. obJectless, lncOngruOus, or simply disturbing
Z manner For example. costume NAV he
composed Of velvet and wool, but instead Of
cutting up the velvet in small pieces, and max
ing blisters of them here and there upon the
/ skirt and the jacket, plain walking skirt will
I be made wholly of velvet. a graceful pOOnaise
wholly of wool. and the velvet will reappear
/ IN plain, round, shoulder cape, which adds the
/ requisite amount of finish and warmth.
/ Fur l. fashiOnably used as Il wide border
this season, to the long coats of cloth or velvet.
/ These compose almost the entire dress, only a
rim of gathered or pleated fOunce showing
7 below; and with them Is worn fur, or fur bOr-
dered hats trimmed with band of fur. or with
I feathers only. The. wide fur trimming on
7 solid cloth or velvet Is the most effective of
trimming, but it loses all its distinction if it is
associated witha many colored flower trim
med bonnet.
\ distinct effort is being made also to reduce
/ the amount of clothing heretofore supposed
necessary for warmth, or rather the number
Q of irregular garments which have burdened
one part OF the body and left the other expos
I ed. The complete knitted undergaTment.nO now
I 50 well shaped and made beautifully soft, is
. supplemented by second which serves as
I chemise. drawers, and corset cover. One
handsome knitted skirt in blue, olive or gar
I net wool il sufficient over these for warmth,
1 and relieves the waist from the pressure
. forced upon it by many bands and skirts. In
[ stead of this skirt, Lady HarbertOn's idea might
[ be adopted of a divided skirt or drawers with
| a waist attached. made in the material OF the
I short dress, and this would make the warmth
/ and thickness over the body uniform through
, out. The Rational Dress society,"" of which
Lady HaFbertOn Is President, has recently
Z offered prizes for models Of dresses which will
fulfill certain conditions; but uniformity of
dresses among all classes and conditions of
women is not to be expected, nor among the
I representatives of any one class; nor is it per-
haps desirable. At any rate it is opposed to
the present genius and tendencies of human
societies, and there is no use in trying To make
water flow up hill.
A GIRLS ALLOWANCE.
"a Mother" writes asking what would be
considered fair allowance for the dress Of a
young girl who lives in a town of fifteen thou
sand inhabitants. where there is good deal
of dress; but where the necessities are not
quite those Of a great city. The father is a
Z respectable merchant, and the mother has a
small income Of her own, out of which she
. dresses her two girls the elder Of whom she
considers ought now 10 learn how 10 dress her.
1 self and manage her own affairs, She asks If
/ IS per week $500 yearly would lie & sufficient
/ sum. and how it should be expended. She
begs also that the reply may be given so that
/ other mothers may have the advantage (f
| anvi TO be derived from it.
I Cnder the circumstances stated by this lady,
i've dollars per week ought to be quite suf-
Z cient for her daughters dresses. and. II well
Z managed and not expended in large dressmak-
ing and sewing bills, should afford a margin
. for such emergencies as even girl Is liable to
[ meet who participates in modern social life,
and who is saved much embarrassment by be-
/ ing able to act independently, It Is not well,
[ however, to give girls or boys the habit OF
I amending freely They should ALWAYS have To
/ calculate in regard to their OUTLAWS and in
Z comes, or the educational purpose of entrust-
/ ing them with money not OF their own earning
VIII be lost sight OF. ana the pleasure OF sacrl-
ficing inclination to the higher desire of giving
Z or doing for others will be unknown.
I An early lesson, too. to be learned is not to
I bus what is unnecessary because it is pretty or
I attracts the eve. The majority of pretty look
7 ing things are useless or emineutly unsatisfac-
[ tory, and though the most of us have 20 obtain
/ this experience by paying more or less Tor il,
/ vet we need fewer lessons if conscience is adj
Z ditiOnally pricked by necessity.
Girls who can sew and largely make their
Z own clothes. have an unreasonable advantage
! over those who are too indOlent to correct
! their ignorance in this respect. There are
[ poor girls who are dependent upon hard work
Z ing fathers or brothers who spend large sums
[ for work which they ought to be happy and
( thankful 10 execute for themselves: and there
I are daughters OF rich men who make all their
: own dresses and enrich every gift which they
I present to others with their own lovely handi-
I work Oh. girls! bright, intelligent, sweet as
I Won are. how Eluch Of the burden it is in your
I power To lift from aching shoulders; how much
of beauty 10 add TO this life, which is often so
I gray and dreary and sad, if you could but see
/ and know it.
But what Of the possibilities of five dollars
/ per week. Ii Is to be supposed that the young
I lady starts with fair outfit and has only to
I fill vacancies a. she goes aiOnes
One good tailor made dress Of plaid, all