Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-05-17

Several Suits Necessary for Daily Use.
WEARING ONE SUIT UNTIL. n Is WORN OUT-A
VARIETY or COLORs TO CHOOSE FR0M-HOw TO
PREVENT TROUSERS BAGGING AT THE KNEES
THE STYLES.

PREVENT TROUSERS BAGGING AT THE KNEES
THE STYLES.
CLARA De We're" in Cincinnati Gazette.
The true art of dressing well, an authority
states, is to make a careful toilet every day.
The man who has once formed this habit findsin
1t an ever recurring pleasure; it ceases to be
trouble and consumes no more time than to
dress carelessly. The man who buys one suit
for all occasions is never well dressed and
almost invariably ''seedy." When some
state occasion compels him to get into his
venerable old dress suit, the last state of that
man is worse than the first. He feels awk-
ward and uncomfortable and looks as if he
had hired his clothes from an undertaken for
So per night. The only way to overcome this
awkward feeling of being dressed up" is to
frequently change the business suit for a demi-
tOiet-a half dress suit. A knowledge of what
is proper in dress, together with the habit of
conforming to the same, gives an appearance of
elegance In no other way to be acquired, and is
the only way In which man can learn to appear
at his best. We often hear men say, with the
air OF having conquered the seven deadly sins in
the act, well, buy suit of clothes and put
'em on, and wear 'em till they are worn out"
One BOWS and smiles in the presence of such ex-
alted virtue. and quietly makes a note that it
were better plan to buy two suits of clothes
and wear them alternately till they were half
worn out, and then buy third. Many men of
genius, education and the highest intellectual at
tanments are utterly Indifferent to their personal
appearance, and fancy this Is a superior frame
OF mind to be in, while really it is no credit to
them in the world. To be we'll dressed and in
conformity with the usages Of good society is
thousand fold mo e creditable. and people who
afect the contrary are generally actuated more
by vanity than superior sense.
At this particular time browns green's, olive
browns and greenish olives are the coming col
0rs. Grays have by no means passed out of
favor, but olive and brown tints are preferred
by those who lead the fashions Between these
leading cOlOrS there are numberless intermedi-
ate and intermingled colorings. There was
few years ago no medium between plain dark
goods and ''high fancies." Now their name is
legion. The favOrite worsted diagonals are
shown in stripes pin checks. plaids, square
blocks. large and small, and in cOlOrings which
combine green. brown, red, blue, black, and
olive, but SO cleverly harmonized as to have the
appearance, at little distance of solid colors.
The old style vale has been changed to variety
OF weayes representing the corkscrew and the
Barathea or ribbed diagonal, the effect
of which is excellent. The groundwork
Of most of the combination coIorings
Is diagonal, and at distance the
tints blend into solid color. TailOrs who follow
English styles recommend Berlin worsted or pin
checks for summer suits to take the place of
cheviOts and fannels. which look 80 awfulIy
''ready-made, you know" These worsteds are
in the finest wool, of black and white and brown
and white alternate dots no bigger than pins
head, which blend into one light color, and look
cool and (ahemD genteel. This is the sort af-
fected by young men who can afford to pay SIS
for a summer suit, for material that cannot be
initiated in cheap goods. Striped trOuserings
are In great favor. They come in stripes varying
from the invisible to the distinctyely marked.
and the former have found much favor with
conservative people. A fancy cashmere vest.
striped trousers and dark coats are
much affected by we'll dressed New
Workers. Cincinnati men incline to the
dark coat and vest en- SUITE and the striped
trousers. In these latter garments the change
from loose to tight is recognized by all classes,
though the extremely tight fitting trousers are
accepted by comparatively few. This fashion of
trousers differing from the rest of the suit is
the result of the present close STYLE for one coat
ana vest easily Outlast two pairs of trousers,
from the tendency of the latter to get 'baggy"
at the knees, circumstance which causes the
average young man Of fashion more uneasiness
than the condition of his bank account. We are
commercially informed by a society man, the
set" Of whose clothes are the envy and despair
OF wide circle of admirers, that the only way
to prevent their bagginess, which has been a
cause of anguish to three continents,
''our continent" and the eastern and wes-
tern Hemispheres generally, is to give the trous-
ers a little hitch at the knee when you sit down.
and under no circumstances to crook the preg-
nant hinges of the knee too much when seated.
but to leave the neither limbs extended in not
ungraceful fashion. Eternal vigilance is the
price of more things than liberty, and mo-
ment's fOrgetfulness will be fatal, for the cloth
once stretched and nodded by the shape of the
knee. not all the pressing, spOnging, and block
ing of every tailOr's goose on Vine street can
undo the mischief. You will be suspected of a
desire to show your neat Over-gaiters and your
olive or cardinal Isle thread hose. and needless
people will stumble over your Outstretched
limbs but you will be sustained by that con-
seriousness that nerved Virginius to strike the
fatal blow, and say with him:
There is no way but this.
Much Of course depends upon the material.
certain elastic cloths being quite unfit for trou-
Servings. and much depends upon the cutter The
careful man measures from hip to knee and
from knee to foot, and locates the knee at the
exact point. The careless man measures the
length OF the leg and suppOses the knee to be
there or thereabOuts." Most depends upOn
the maker, the handicrattsman who sews the
garment. He can make or mar; if in putting
the pants together he slips one side up or down
quarter OF an inch, the whole garment is out Of
balance. Naturally but few men do this fine and
careful work. and they command their price,
and the buyer must pay it. You can have
coat made by a ''$5 man" or ''$12 man." The
diHerence In the appearance Ofthe garments cut
from the same cloth. and made by the two men,
Is just the difference between well dressed
man and his shabby neighbor. Always suppos-
ing the first cost can be afforded, the wise man
has his clothes made by a master workman.
In the cut of all coats tendency to shorter
waists and smaller sleeves is noticeable and
customers favor the change especially men
who go In Tor a style when it first comes out
But these ultra fashiOnables are not the men
who give best support to the business, and so
the taiors move slow, and present modified
styles to catch the solid men. The single and
double breasted cutaway are the popular style
for business coats, though sack coats are by no
means in disfavOr. The cutaway (single breasted
four buttoD can be made to answer the
double purpose of high or low roll, but the
style continues to wear all garments closing
high. 1t Is cut with narrow shoulder, mar
row side body, short waist, long skirt and small
sleeve. The vest is single breasted, without
collar, cut to close high, short and straight at
bottom. The new sack coat traces the form of
the body without any loose cloth. This close
fitting body calls for close sleeve and a mar
row shoulder, cut to fit without wadding, and
the more sloping appears the better the men
like It, The fashionable length for a man FIVE
feet eight would be about twenty -nine or thirty
inches. They are usually made from suitings
where the coat. trousers and vest are made of
the same material. The vest is short and the
trousers to order. The edges of these coats are
either braided fiat Or double stitched one quar-
ter Of an inch between the rows