The Portland daily press., 1882-03-21
New York Fashions.


[Harpers Bazar.l
The mantles imported for spring and sum-
mer are regular mantillas, with short round
back and long scarf-like fronts, or else they are
the half-long shapes. The mantillas are little
more than scarfs, as they have but one seam
that in the middle of the back-and are made
to fit on the shoulders by means of short darts,
of which thero may be one, two or three on
each shoulder. The back seam is often sloped
outward over the tournure, giving bias effect,
and in some mantles the whole fabric is cut
bias, as the goods then cling more closely;oyer
the arms This cape-like back extends just
below the waist line, resting smoothly over the
tournure where it is usually ornamented with
great bow of moire ribbon, or else there are
pleats covering the back seam its entire length
and finished at the end like fan in order to
spread out upon the tournure. The fronts
may each be quarter or three-eighths Of q
yard wide, and extend as low as the knees,
where the corners may be left square, or else
the end is drawn together, and completed by
passementerie tassel, or lace pleated in the
shape of tassel, and bow Of many loops OF
narrow moirG ribbon. The neck is cut very
high. and is further heightened by full ruche
of lace made in shells like jabot, or Of narrow
standing lace frills, with some much wider
lace gathered below it to fall deep on the
shoulders like Mother Hubbard collar.
Back is the color chosen for the most dressy
mantles and the materials most used for these
are satin duchesse, Spanish lace net in the
piece, with Spanish lace for trimmings, and
the new moire brocades. This is used forithe
most stately garments, and is the only kind OF
brocade seen in elegant black wraps, unless we
except the moire antique grounds with flowers
brocaded upon them. For more youthful look
ing garments the caprice OF the season Is FOR
Spanish lace in the piece laid as transparent
on satin, and this really gives the effect OF q
lace brocade. The satin duchesse, satin mer.
veilleux, Surah, Rhadames, and other twilled
lustrous silks are used for wraps that are
trimmed with lace, jets and chenille fringe;
occasionally Siciliennes, armures and silks
with cords forming bars are used, but the one
thing Deedful is that each must have the lustre
of satin. When wool Is chosen for black man
ties, it is either camels-hair or Chudda, and
the manner of making and trimming is similar
to those Just described colored satin Surah
Innings in all nice wool wraps, and for these
Innings ecru, drab, olive and silver gray are
much used, with few Innings Of dark cardi-
nal.
The trimmings most used, next to Spanish
lace will be fine guipure laceS, and also mix
lures of soft flexible satin cords in lace patterns
with fans and medallions of guipure introduced.
Later in the season the embroideries in open
designs will be used for mantles. These gui-
pure laces in trimming widths cost from 81 to
50 yard, and are put on with less fullness
than the frils of Spanish lace. The satin cord
laces are very expensive, and are shown with
lets and without them. The new passemente-
ries are also made of theze flexible satin cords,
arranged in row after row, forming circles, or
else in oblong shapes, diamonds, or chains,
rings, etc., and there are also leaf and flower
designs Solid jet passementeries are in SINH
| lar designs of links and rings, and there are
many drop trimmings, some entirely OF jet,
| some mixed with satin cords, that are pendent
| in lace rosettes, jabots, ETC. Great stars or
daisies of jet are placed in rows down the
front and back amid the pleatings set on man
| ties, and there are buckles for the same pur-
| pose made of bugles with chenille. For fringes
the choice is given to the chenille fringe as
full as a ruche and of the sleek chenille that
resembles seal-skin, and wears much better
than the ordinary kind. The ribbons used for
garniture are almost all of moire, either very
wide for the large bow on the tournure, or two
inches wide for the bow with long ends worn
at the throat, and also for the half-inch ribbons
that form small bows Of many long loops that
are set about in the shells of lace labots.
For light wool wraps, Manila, tan and drab
Chudda or camel's-ha is made up IN the
styles just described, and trimmed with seal
skin fringe of ruche-like fullness, showing two
or three shades, and also with shaded bead
passementeries in the new designs of ovals,
circles, etc. For gayer wraps for the carriage
or for the street, with dark costumes, the Per-
Sian clOLlS OF mlx6Q SILK s-.u WOOl IclLdlu III
favor. These have very small close figures in
the colors of India shawls, and the newest have
olive or mustard colors for the prevailing tint,
and have satin ribbon bows in these greenish
hues set on the back and front. Half-long
shapes with square sleeves are preferred Tor
these gay wraps, and fringe of sewing silk
of Harlequin colors showing the colors IN the
Persian cloth is the trimming; these fringes
have no heading, as they made OF graduated
widths of fringes attached to narrow tape
loI hx,t tba Vvo falling IL
The Cheviot sacques, Jackets, and short man
ties already described Are the jaunty garments
for general wear by both young and elderly
women. Mustard and olive green hues prevail
in these cheviots and the designs are checks.
blocks, or else melange of colors made up of
small dashes The Jersey style without pleats
at the back is the jacket for very young ladies;
then others have two box pleats behind as for
merly, but are not open with flaps at the back,
like the usual English coats. Still others have
a seam around the hips, with second piece
set there to give fullness for paniers under
meath. Most of these button very high at the
throat and have coat collars or else the square
Byron collar, or it may be pleated collar or
standing frill. The Cheviot mantles are most
ly half-long with square sleeves, and are
trimmed with box-pleated rushes of the Chevi-
OF, or else with sleek chenille fringe. A few
such garments have shirring about the should
ers, but are not nearly so full and clumsy-look-
ing as the Mother Hubbard wraps were when
| first introduced. Sometimes there is but one
| seam in these garments-that down the middle
| of the back. The top is then shirred at the
back of the neck, armholes are cut in the sides,
| and square sleeve-like piece is set in with
very good effect. Still others have pointed
wing-like sides resembling the dolman mantle
Cheviot of the mustard and brown shades is
also much used for listers, but many prefer
the solid-colored twilled cloths in seal brown,
dark green, drab, or navy blue: The checked
Cheviots are very appropriate for these useful
undress wraps that were originally intended
| for travelling and for rainy weather, but are
| now worn on the street the Sunniest mornings,
| if it suits q lady's convenience to do so. The
| loose listers with pleats or rather tucks, back
| and front, and square sleeves, are most largely
| imported, but as these do not outline the hgure
| many ladies prefer the more closely fitted gar
ment that was first introduced. Some bows OF
| satin ribbon and facings of satin inside box
| pleatings of Cheviot are the trimmings for
| handsome listers. Buttons are so fast losing
| favor that not only the small wraps described
| above, but the large ulsters also, are in many
cases fastened merely by hooks and eyes. This
| is reaction from the conspicuous plaque-like
buttons so long used; but it is going to the 9TH
| or extreme, as such wraps need substantial
| battons and button-holes down the front.
though it is relief to be spared the useless and
not ornamental buttons set on cuffs and on the
| back of garments to define the waist line.
| Small bullet-shaped buttons of colored pearl,
| shaded to correspond with the cloth, are ap-
| propriate for listers. The shirred cuffs and
| collars are still seen on many listers, but
| square sleeve, finished like a great smooth cuff
| is newer. Sometimes the sleeves are folded up
| from the lower edge, and are sewed in the
| seams that join the middle forms OF the back
| like those so much in favor for Winter cloaks;
| the bishop sleeves, fully gathered, are also
seen, but the preference is for the plain
| square sleeves with satin lining and stitched
edges. These loose, listers are coolest for
| summer wear and do not crush light dresses
| worn beneath them; they cost from $50 to $50.
| A yoke with lengthwise pleatings is one of the
new shapes for listers, but this requires TO be
fitted with great care. Dark green is a stylish
| color for twilled cloth listers
Ghosts.