The Portland daily press., 1882-06-01
lHarpers' Bazar.l
New York Fashions.


New York Fashions.
The clothing worn by men during business
hours when travelling, and in the morning
generally, is made Of Scotch mixtures" as
the rough cloths are called, or else of smooth
English cloth with black ground on which are
small colored dots or figures. Dark mixtures
are most fashionable, but young men are wear
ing cadet blue, or the English green that is al
SO blue Small checks, dots, and small figures
are we'll worn, but plaids are not used. The
entire suit is cut from one piece of cloth. The
coat is the sngle-breasted English shape that
buttons one button very high, and then slopes
away; it is of medium length. The vest is al
SO very high, covering all the shirt front but
the small space at the top concealed by the
scarf; it has notched collar, and is single
breasted, as indeed all vests now are. The
shapely trousers fit the legs closely, but the
best tailors do not make the very tight panta-
looms occasionally seen on the street For SUM
mer suits blue or black Scotch ChevIots take
the place of the flannel suits formerly worn.
These are made with sack coats that button
either one or four buttons, and which also TOLL
back and show high vest underneath. There
are suits of light gray English cashmere in in
distinct checks, with threads of red or blue
made for Young men, while for those who wear
mourning are suits of black Chevlot.
Che day dress suit for afternoon weddings,
luncheons, all day receptions, day VISITS, ana
for church. has the Prince Albert frock-coat OF
black or invisible blue diagonal cloth, or that
with the new corkscrew weaving. The hlgn
SINGLE breasted vest is of the same cloth, and
the trousers are of the new English cashmere.
An effort has been made to introduce with
this suit the spotted fanciful vests now SO pop
ular in London, but this has met with little
success. The evening dress suit for dinners
and entertainments-and never to be donned
in the daytime-has swallow-tall coat and
vest of lustrous black broadcloth. The coat is
cut to roll very low, and has silk facing The
vest also rolls low to match the coat, buttons
three buttons, and is ornamented with line
of very fine embroidery of black needle-work,
representing vine or serpentlne line on bhe
collar, pockets and its lower edge; line cord
also finishes the edges of the coat and vest.
The close-ftting trousers are of west-of-Eng-
land doeskin of the same jet-black hue, and the
side seams are finished with a cord. White
vests are not worn with these suits, and, IN
deed like the white duck trousers once SO
popular, are now scarcely seen.
Spring and Summer overcoats are SACKS me-
dunn long, single-breasted, with fly fronts, on
which is silk facing to the edge, or only half
way as the writer prefers.
The plain shirt front of three thicknesses OF
linen is still most used both for dress and plain
occasions, but there is tendency to return 10
the pleated bosoms formerly worn. One large
plain gold stud, or cat's-eye, or other gem is
worn in the middle OF the bosom instead OF
three smaller stud buttons. Narrow standing
collars are most used the newest collars are
very slightly t.dog-eared"; others lap slightly
without being turned over at the corpors; stlil
others have wide space open at the throat;
and the English standing collar, with wider
points turned back remains in favor. turned
over collars are also very narrow; some OF THESE
meet, while others do not, and some are more
deeply pointed than others. Cuffs are either
round or square-cornered.
The hat-folded and slightly pulled scarfs are
worn smaller than formerly, yet are large
enough to cover we'll the small space OF the
shirt bosom not concealed by high vests. very
dark satin grounds with small figures or dots
are liked for morning scarfs, while lgnter
white and biscuit scarfs of twilled silk shotted
with color, such as terra Gotta, peacock blue,
or red, are narrowly folded to fit in high vests,
and are very stylish with day-dress suits. For
ordinary wear are the knotted scarfs OF dark
blue twilled foulard OF various shades very
much covered with white figures. Grenadines
are also made up in small knotted scarfs OF dark
colors, and there are many OF the W1ncsor
grenadine scarfs, to be tied by the wearer.
Young men like the four-in-hand scarfs OF sat
in an inch and half wide, and long enough
to pass around the neck and pc ted witn
strewn with small golden horseshoes, or tiny
red feathers, or with dashes of red or white.
The Derby scarf, similar to this, is OF white pi-
que, very long, and two inches wide. Other
wash scarfs, fatty folded, are OF white duck, OF
else of pioue, dotted with red, blue or black.
For evening dress white cambria or black satin
narrowly folded scarfs are still used, New
scarf pins have plain surfaces OF old gold, with
gems sunk in them in gypsy style; a ccat's-eyee
or trefoil of a ruby, sapphire, and diamond
looks we'll imbedded in dull gold surface;
There are also many hammered golu pins anu
copper-tinted silver.
White linen handkerchiefs have either very
wide or quite narrow hems, hem-stitched, and
there are many shown with gay-colored paiis
and outline figures on these hems SILK pock-
et-handkerchiefs to be worn In breast pocKe,s Oh
oyercoats are of pale or dark blue, cardinal, or
cream. color, with wide hem-stiched hem.
Balbriggan, silk, and ribbed lisle-thread ho-
sierv is shown in very dark colors and black,
entirely plain, or else lightly clocked, or with
very fine stripes around the loot. very oaik
blue. fawn, tan-color, and drab are favorlle
color. and dark cardinal is still worn.
The pointed toes and toe-caps seen on fash.
ionable shoes are made against the advice OF
the best shoemakers, who say they not only
cause pain when worn, but permanently IN
iure the shane of the foot. The fancy for these
Shoes is brought about by wearing tight trows-
ers that magnify the apparent size OF tne loot,
but sensible men, who do not adopt extreme
STYLES. wear medium rounded toes and shoes
that are longer than the feet. Street shoes are
buttoned CATERS of calf-skin with lighter
gouare-edged soles, instead of the heavy Eng
Iisbe soles worn in the winter; the heels are
low and square. Dress CATERS have mat kld
tons with patent-leather goloshes; they are but
toned on the side, and have low heels.
Dress hats for spring are OF pearl gray cassi-
mere. with bell crown five and half inches
hiob. and round curved English brim that is
nearly two inches wide. The felt hat for busl-
ness and general wear is an English DERBY,
Iarcer than those lately worn; the crown IS
five and fourth inches high, and the rolled
brim is two inches and an eighth In wldtn.
Cocoa brown is the stylish color, ana tnere arg
navy blue and English green Derbys imported
to match suits. American Derby hats nave
more tapering crowns, and are not SO hlg1 az
the English shapes; they come in pearl coior,
black and brown, Travelling hats made IN
London are of Cheviots in small check or Win
mixed grounds, made with cores that curve 70
form a Derby crown; they are soft ana nave
shapeIy rolled brims that are also soft, 30 thaG
the hat can be put in the pocket or crushea
without harm. - of
English waterproof long coats are shown OF
reversible cloth, different on eacn slae, VIII
rubber between. ,;,,. NOR
ties, but are otherwise matter OF caprice. ,
They are worn or omitted at pleasure al oay
by ushers at weddings, ana
wben naving visits. When used, they are fas-
tened bv two buttons and there is return 10
lavender gloves with embroidery on the Dacks
Fawn. drab, and tan colors are the popuiaI
choice. Lisle-thread gloves, "tilburled -thas
is. with kid in the palms-are used 1or dtlVlpg.
Small pins of gold, with gold heads, or eise
with tiny pearl or opal heads, are 9sea w