Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-04-01

Fortune that Can Easily be Acquired
Some New Travelling Drcsses-Suanmer
Trimmings.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, March 81.
On the whole women may be satisfied with
their clothes for the present and coming season.
Among the designs that are. fantastic there are
quite enough that are good and sensible to pre-
vent those who wish TO walk on in the even
tenor of their way from being obliged to part
from their ideals-and, indeed, the 'sshow" ia
much less than 1t seems through the medium of
exaggerated newspaper paragraphs, which are
nothing If not exaggerated.
Essentials remain very much as they were !:
that Is we have still the convenient walking
skirt; the simple, durable class of materials !;
the freedom from bustles and tournures; and
an entire absence Of superfuous drapery
If drapery is needed or wanted. however, the
latitude Of fashion is such that any amount of
It can be supplied. We have still for spring
wear the tailOr-made suit, with stitching and
buttons for finish, and the neat hat to match for
those who wish them to serve for summer trav-
cling and excursions. And, lastly. we have
large hats and bonnets, for which women who
have reached middle age, or suffer from neural
gia. or have compilations to save, ought to be
thankful.
There has been some altering back and forth.
as usual. Last year the jacket bodices were Of
figured brocade, and the trimmed skirts worn
with them were Of solid material This wear
tne Jackets are plain, and the skirts striped,
checked or figured. year ago the overskirts
were draped long; now they are draped short,
and the disposition continues to get rid of them
altogether, or substitute the ecarf-sash or dra-
perry. The Jersey" bodice remains, notwith-
standing the successful effort to revive the coat
bO6p0 cd p,ir
for young girls are the striped and killed skirts,
the slender. perfectly moulded bodice of the
plain material and the scarf-sash over the hips.
knOtted or drawn through ring on one side.
The throat is easily and becomingly finished by
a round collar Of the stripe laid In pleats. to
match the skirt. These costumes are made in
pure wool of fine, soft texture, and are a
study OF lovely color and contrast. There are
olives and browns, old blue (the blue of old
China), and pure Bordeaux shade. There are
browns and pinkish salmon, the darker color
always forming the solid portion of the dress,
and there are shades of red. with tcelle or Irvine,
Ga rattan dark shade of pretty color,) which are
effective, the fcelje being used for the bodice
vi course, the Jersey" dress is only suitable
for young, slender, yet well-rounded women;
and, ii worn without exaggeratiOn or coauetry.
lt IS perfectly modest and charmingly dainty
design. 1t ought not to be worn in single,
eml-transparent creepy fabric, or by large,
very FULLY developed woman; because the first
as If the wearer would be indecent if she could
while the second is vulgar and betrays the alb
sence OF refined taste. But it must be re-
membered that the Jersey dress, the upper part
of which is fitted and lined and adjusted to
seams, IKE any other basque waist, is very
diHerent thing from the Jersey independent bod
ice, which Is knitted in a close elastic stocking
stitch, and drawn over the body like supple
mentary skin. This is quite as bad as wearing
tights" in public. It is disgraceful if it dent
ut; it is indecent if it does.
COLOR
is an immense factor in dress at present, and q
very fair test of the amount of art and culture
which woman puts into her clothing, or at
least how far she keeps in support with the
most recent ideas in making her selection. Art
and esthetic ideas in dress have done much for
us in introducing new world Of color a world
OF meaning, of depth Of expression. such as of
late years. previous to this era we knew no thing
Ii any one wishes to be convinced of the truth of
this statement let them compare the fine art
shades with materials Of to-day with those often.
hfteen and twenty-five years ago. Every wear
the improvement Is manifest and the shades or
tones develop more subtle consciousness.
growing character which contains possibilities
Of harmonious relations with the persons and
influences with which it is brought in contact.
OF whom and Of which it is destined to become
a part. Take green for example. There is no
color SO significant, so capable Of tender, help
full, growing expression. 1t is in the subdued
art shades universally becoming; and it
fraterniZes with more cOlOrs than any other
except those that do not quarrel because of
their fixed and eternal neutrality. Who does
not remember what were called the grass
greens and apple green's of q few years ago?
They were the green's Of paper flags on st.
Patrick's day. Put these greens by the greens of
grass and leaves, even at their brightest and
one will be astonished at the quiet depth, the
delicacy and subdned character of the natural
finland the garish tone of the artificial one
the immense difference between what we call
nature and what is nature
The esthetic school have endeavored to get
no OF the entire system Of crude color. substi-
tuting for it the refinement Of subdued tones
such coiors as are found upon old china tapestry.
painting, and needlework; and to q certain
extent they have succeeded The best English
and French manufacturers have been clad to
adopt ideas which had all the attraction Of now
city and all the force of tradition. Particularly
where atmospheric Influences are favorable.
colors have been lowered, deepened, and the
general tone greatly improved In this country
1t is more difficult to create new departure OF
this kind, because the climate lacks the humidity
ana tenderness necessary to the production Of
policy of the country is to sustain its manu-
facturers, not improve its manufactures. Our
art cOlOrs are therefore confined to imported
fabrics and materials, and the price puts them
out OF the reacn OF any but the rich, or at least
those who can afford Injuries. Still one good
effect has been produced: Our manufacturers
have been stimulated to the production of
variety in color and to attempts at imitation.
Unfortunately, the failures of the art school
have afforded opportunities for exaggeration
and MISREPRESENTATION on the part Of those who
never lose the opportunity to indulge IN either.
and instead Of receiving the credit to which it
Is fairly entitled, it is made responsible for
individual fOllies and propensities. But
the art schools and societies establ-
ished by women throughout the country
are doing much to correct this false idea. and
the wisdom is beginning to be apparent Of the
absolute standard which the New York Society
OF Decorative Art first created for ITSELF which
It has maintained and which Is fast raising it to
the rank of true art school. In the experien-
ces OF this society it has been found that the
genius for the work among the women IN this
country who execute art-made work IL far SUI
perior to that Of England; but the study of de-
sign has been carried to much greater perfc-
ton than with us. Almost ali the original
designs come from the Kensington school
while In the execution of permanent art-neede-
work it Is essential to use English material, our
coiors and methods Of manufacture not pro-
ducing the necessary results.
AN ART SCHOOL FOR DRESS.
What we need now is q school that will truly
avn NJ in. a