Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-09-01

ana the cOlu as severe throughout the win
ter as It is occasionally, American women
could not do better than follow the example
of the Russian ladies, and adopt a single
fur-trimmed suit of plush as permanent
winter dress. But this is not the case.
Women who are not rich require several
changes OF garments in order to equalize
the conditions of the temperature, If not for
the sake of fashion, and q plush suit is not
only heavy and expensive, but almost use
less, as it can be so little worn.
There is no doubt, however, that velvet,
plain and embossed, will be the leading rich
fabric for day wear, as the magnificent
brocRdes will occupy the first place for
evening and indoor purposes. Embossed
velvet, plush lined, are used for the finest
cloaks; but plain velvet, fur trimmed and in
fine dark shades of wine, myrtle green,
cadet blue, and others, will be in request for
redingote suits and the more useful jacket
costumes. 1t is fortunate for those whose
means do not admit of paving from six to
ten dollars per yard for Lyons velvet that
the new makes OF velveteen have reached
such perfection and offer so excellent a
substitute. or these the "nonpAreil," /" in
tToduced last winter, is perhaps in 8ll
respects the most successful. Velveteens
are neither more nor less than the original
English fustian, but the modern methods OF
manufacture have impaired to it quite q
new character, just as they have given US
IN the cotton foulards and satines
fabrics so eTquisitely fine, soft and
beautiful, that If they did not look
like silk foulard and genuine satin, they are
quite handsome enough to be priced for
their own sakes. This is also the case spe-
cially with the Nonpareil velveteen, which
has been put TO severe tests and been found
to retain fits rich shading and color after the
hardest wear. Directions are given for
making 1t up; that is, laying the pile (Which
is thick, deep and richl the right way, and
If these are followed it is impossible to dis
tinguish the suit or garment made from one
Of Lyons velvet, other conditions being
equal.
TAILoR-MADR DRESSES.
ALI plain wooden suits seem now to come
under the general head OF taflor-made
dresses, and there is this advantage, that
though they do change their fashion some
what, they retain certain practical sensible
character, and are never fantasticsllY mixed
or trimmed in a way that is outrageouslY
unsuitable. They have, in short, acquired
a character, which furnishes standard to-
ward which the majority endeavOr to ap
proximate and which has raised the tone OF
serviceable dress. One can always RELY
now on the temperance of the handsome
all wool cloth for dress suits and Jackets,
the camel's hair and trIcots, the armure
tweeds, the meltons and the undYed cloths
for riding coats and walking jackets In the
country. The novelties in cloths this season
are the "SandOwn" and "Indiana." Both
are soft and drape beautifully. They are
imported in all the art shades as well as in
the usual cloth shades.
The tailor made suits of last year consist
ed Of a jacket or deep basque with seam
across tue front at the waist line, and a
double breasted front The skirt (walking
length) was finished with deep killing and
a drapery laid in deep folds or shirred
through the centre in front and falling ir-
regularly at the back. This season there
are already three methods that seem likely
to be popular. One consists OF a killed
skirt, the folds laid in fine clusters, not
evenly, as last season; paniered drapery
and braided jacket Another furnishes q
striking novelty in the way OF lady's dress
coat, which is cut away from the front, dis
playing walking skirt braided upon the
front, or ornamented with a design In an
application of velvet or plush, but the braid
ing is considered the most proper for tailor
made garments. A third style is more or
dinary but very good. 1t Is made OF hne
dark checkered cloths-the medium, not
large-and all of the piece. The walking skirt
is trimmed with killed f1ounce, the upper
part consisting of straight apron (cut on the
bias) and trimmed with a fold, the back
draped. The jacket has postillion back,
and it is cut in points but straight across the
front. Sleeves are always set high In the
shoulder.
The Newmarket coat and jacket hold their
own places and cannot be separated by the
redingOte, because the latter is less protec
tive and better adapted to city streets, but
less to driving, country and travelling wear.
The soft felt hats simply bound and
freshed with band, are an excellent accom-
al oI1
however, visits are to be made, and a
"town" hat is required while travelling or
staying in the country, the long gauze wells
which have become permanent institution
are sufficient guarantee against ordinary
mischances.
FETE TOMETTES.
Some lovely dresses have been sent out
for entertainments at Newport and else
where which it may be well to mention, as
they furnish suggestions for evening cos
tunes. One was of black broche gauZe, a
very rich pattern, draped over black and
white striped satin and trimmed with black
and white lace. Another displayed coat OF
pale yellow brocade on an ivory ground, in
conjunction with skirt of mixed ivory and
yellow satin, both trimmed with beautiful
white lace. The small train was of ivory
satin embroidered Up the back, with an ex-
quisitelY shaded vine of pale yellow wall
lappels, which were lined with satin, dis
closed this, while the cut away style In front
exhibited to advantage alternate crimped
ruffles of ivory and yellow satin, the yellow
covered with white lace, which also formed
a rich jabot at the neck and ruffies for the
sleeves.
For young lady dress was made of
icelle embroidery and red surah, the hat of
ficelle glazed straw trimmed with red feath-
A -
coat of fine China blue cloth over poppy
red skirt Of surah satin, made with soft
pufings alternating with clusters OF narrow
fiounces. A dog collar Of lace, with stand
ing rutfles and square ends accompanied
this toilet.
Red and yellow appear wherever there is
mixed color in design or ornamentation,
and red and yellow will take the place of
white very largely in the handsome toilettes
which Will be made for the coming season.
1t is not the coarse red and yellow, however,
seen in bandsnna handkeTchiefs, or In the
artificial hue Of roses and sunfoWers, but
much softer, darker, deeper, and paler tints
tones that approach nature, though we
never know how far they are from initiating
1t Till we can compare one with the other.
THE LATEST CRAZE
is for Turkish embroidery as ornamentstion
for the fronts of handsome aesthetic gowns.
a ar6SS OF ecru emma crepe was trimmed
recently with two rows of Turkish embroid-
cry in leaf pattern, in solid gold, and several
pongees have been made up with the rich
borders In varied colors and mixture of gold
thread so characteristic of the Turkish en-
broidery we are acquainted with. Quite an
impetus has been given to this industry
lately in Constantinople by the efforts of
some English and American ladies to help
poor women by making the work known
and finding for It a market. These have
been most successful. The long strips of
Turkish cloth, more or less fine, are en-
broidered at both ends and on both sides
They have been used for chairs and table
scarfs, but are now utilized for very ef-
fective dress decoration. Embroidered
hsndkerchiefs, too, make lovely flchus for
morning wear, or in place of lace, and there
are many uses in the way of curtain and
mantelpiece drapery to which this work can
be applied and for which it is valuable, as
the gold does not tarnish, nor do the colors
change.
A novelty in the way of lace pins secures
the bouquet at the throat at the same time
that 1t fastens the tie, and there is bracelet
just imported which clasps the arm without
hinge or fastening, and cannot be displaced.
1t is souvenir" ornament with legendary
inscription.
Fans will be matters Of great importance
during the coming season, the bead and
black fan with gold sticks being prominent
among the popular styles, but the fan Of
l. A..