Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-05-30

we rose toward the snowy range comfort de-
handed a rug for the knees and feet Such a
contrast with the sensations Of wenty-four
hours previous. The ascent now became sleeper
and our speed much slower. We had taken q
stronger engine at Kurseong. but it was tried to
the utmost by the heavy grade and short curves.
Tree ferns and towering oaks, set in beds of
wild flowers, here bordered the pathway. Oc-
casiOnally we came upon q gang Of coolies en-
gagged in clearing away one Of the frequent
landslips. Beyond Sonada-another of the
euphonious hill names-we entered into cloud
land; not dreamy, mental territory, but q
damp, chilly, reality.
Once the struggling locomotive stopped in
rocky pass entirely out of breath; and while it
waited to gather steam we walked nearly a
mile. The engineer declined our challenge to
race the train, as well as proposition to pull it
as far as the next station. An Indian 'peg"
(cOgnac and soda) at the last bungalow, and
the bracing air. made us feel equal to any feat.
Trackless gOrges and noisy torrents succeeded
each other at intervals, spanned by substantial
arched bridges. Hardy peasants, of the hill
tribes, passed in growing numbers; some drv-
ing buffaloes or goats and others carrying bur-
dens held upon their backs by strap reaching
across the forehead. Happily we were nearing
the journeys end.
A few minutes later we ratified into the bustee
Cvillage) OF Jhor, seventy four hundred feet
above the sea. Snow was falling lightly, and
piercing winds swept through the exposed car,
Our attention was at once attracted by myriad
or rags, several on pole. one below the other.
flying from the shanty-tops. closer inspec-
ton showed that they bore written Characters.
These were prayers, inscribed by the lamas. and
hung out by the credulous. to paralyze evil spir-
its in the air. We were among the adherents of
q corrupt Buddhism tribes haling from Thibet
the frontier of which Is distant, as the bee fies
only about a hundred and fifty miles.
After leaving JhOr, the incline was slightly
DOWNWARD for three or four miles remaining to
be accomplished. This fact ENCOURAGED onr
feeble engine to reckless degree, considering
the nature Of that section of the line. AT aev
eral bends around which the train was sharnlv
jerked, the step projecting along the side of the
car fairly overhung the frightful brink It NAV
be triumph OF engineering" to build a rail.
way SO close to the verge OF death: but. in tha
present instance, as an approach to sani-
tarium, it has the aspect Of a dismal lest. We
were now within range Of the snowy ssRoof OF
the World"-facing august Kinchinjunga. next
to the loftiest peak-aithough as yet the vail of
ctonds denied US the coveted view.
., :There's Darleeling!" exclaimed the tea
planter at my side. Ahead lay q picturesque
town Of white houses, clinging to the stones of
q group of hills. What swarm of unconth
humanity surrounded the few passengers unor,
aiighting! Odd figures stroye with each Other
amid war of words, for the privileges NJ carrv'
ing the baggage. Presently we were cl,mhing
the ridge Of the Woodlands. COW hotel
preceded by two laughing damsels hearing
our heaVy portmanteaus. 1t was the third time
al ihuia tnat young ladies' had paid us such an
attention. Mr.. Watson has carefully noted this
important item in his diary. The short winter's s
afternoon was fast waning when we Sat down
before cracking fire in our comfortahIe ROOM
nearly thirty miles into the labyrinth Of the
Himalayas. ~ 'Ao