Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-07-05
TEE RUSSIAN sTsrCE1
Dircctians Cor the Newest and 7Ece'
Fashionable Method Of E,ioroiGrTy-
Fancy Work for Supsnicr-yarioU5
Devices for Trimming Clothes nnG
Passing Away tE,c Time.
From the Philadelphia Times.


From the Philadelphia Times.
There is something particularly fascinating to
the feminine mind in the term fancy needle
work, which means much more than one would
Imagine. for ii not only suggests pretty deco
rated faishings tor household adornment but
embraces hundred and one furnishings for
underwear and childTen's costumes. including
the magnificent head and silk embroidcries now
so fashionable or all manner of handsome robes.
Among the European novelties for industrious
ladies who favor fancy neediewOrk there are
designs for Russian crOss-stitch embroidery.
printed on transfer papers. which are easily
transferred to the material by ironing. These
designs are excellent and of ali kinds includ-
ing wide and narrow borders. designs for
dOylieS of different sizes and patterns for
Chair backs The work is easy and so well
adapted for practical application to all manner
OF purposes that 1t has rapidly become very pop
uar. The number of cuiOrs employed for this
style Of embroidery being rather limited and
shading impossible. u = Haiied with pleasure 10y
ladies' who Know that coiCrin@ is their weak
point and that the shaking in their crewel work
has never been altogether satisfactory. The
colorinG of Russian embroidery IS as a rule very
simple. and widely contrasting tnts may be
brought into close proximity. The new transfer
papers are wonderful aid To this interesting
work anu will enable those who can procure
tieiH 10 etiDrOhiSf many Inc pieces
True Russian work is defined az embroidery in
red and blue c0ttol upon linen. in conventional
patterns executed in three different stitches and
as this work is in great demand hints for its eX-
ecution VIII be well received. Ii Is used not
only on linen for tea cloths towels spryietteS
side-bOard cloths and bedroom furniture bat on
silk for borders. ties. gloves and slippers Tie
linen canvas. exactly reproduced from the old
material Is the best for working upon where it
can be used. pat when Russian embroidery is
linen or Si 1st
be first tackled on to the material and the work
done over it. the threads to be afterwards drawn
away. The linen canvas should be worked
either with silk or cotton of ingram colOrS.
THE RUSSIAN STITCH.
The Oldest and most purely Russian stitch is
called point sans enyers, because when well eX-
ecuted it is a square stitch. exactly the same on
both sides. 1t may be varied in many WAYS 1t
can be done in four threads or on one. Another
variety has two sides of the square omitted. so
that the stitches form little yaHdykes. Another
Is simply darnng. the return stitches being
omitted. but the stitches in the different rows
alternating. and again there is the ''Hobein
work. which looks like simple stitching ana
will be the same on both sides.
The next is called point croise which is widely
known from its facility of execution. This is
the simple CrOss-stitch i'm which the medieval
backgrOunded work is executed. 1t is not
known whether this stitch is OF German or Rus
quaint character of their own while in the
German specimens heraldc animals and scroll
work appear. and they are altogether more elab-
crate.
The third stitch is point de devant which is
worked in squares of three stitches taken over
Six threads. the alternating lines having the
squares beginning OH the center space of the
preceding ones. cushion stitches together. This
Is much used for backgrOunded designs squares
being omitted every here and there in cUnyen-
tiOnal patterns.
The colOrs used in purely Russian work are
red alone. or red and blue. occasionally mixed
with white thread Black sometimes appears,
and IN tie Old Moscow work yellow and green
are seen. together with gold thread. The point
sans enyers is almost entirely worked in red
cotton. Besides these stitches drawn work is
much used to divide or to edge borders. the
threads beng drawn out for about half ali inch.
and the center being twisted round a thread run
through it.
DECORATIVE WORK.
A day or so at the watering-place or seaside
may be spent in decorating one of the rush bas-
kets ROW used for carrying work or the purse
and handkeTchiefS 4 specimen shows the
outer covering in black satin. 1t is put ON full
round the edge and has two OF three ..eaug-
1ngs, according TO the horizontal rush bars
running round the basket in and out The satin
is carried down and neatly fastened Off UNDER
Meath the basket. The lining is OF quilted satin
ana may be red. yellow. pink or light blue. A
ruche to match runs round the top and fall Of
black lace dr0OpS over the outside The ham
dies are bound round with either the black or
colOred satin. Tie lace is about four inches
Wide Il little pincuShiOn is sometimes added
at the side and also small lookine-glass such
rs are to be found in dressing bags or work
cases Some are entirely formed of satin and
black lace: others are richly embroidered and
finished with the lace or the decorative fringes
with the combined colOrs OF the neetlIew0rk
This employment is very fascinating and many
10.
Ors after the same manner.
80 many useful articles nav be created in
these hours of leisure. Those for table use are
simple and yet attractive. There are dOylies
with groundwork of line cream granite cotton.
frinSed round the edges and ornamented with
outline embroidery, which NAV be executed in
either rope or black stitch, with either washing
Silks OF various cOlors or with grain cotton.
APPLIQUE WORK.
Applique work on serge or oatmeal cloth is
much in favor for Hiantel and bracket finisliinrs
cushions. foOtstO0S, char-back covers and table
cloths. Yelveteen or cloth are good materials
as they do not fray out. Get good. bold pat
tern traced. of ivy, beg0n!a or vine leaves
chain-s:itch the outlines and veinin@s. cut away
near the stitching. but not too close and the
work is done There is also plush or slammed
yeiyeteen. which can be worked in chain stitch
by following the impression OF the stamped
leaves and flowers Bands for trimming chill
with cloth or velyeteea and in some instances
cotton dresses OF chambray. in plain colorS are
garnished with bands and borders of some bright
chintZ. chan-stitched on to the foundation fabric
Serviettes are finished with outline embro!d-
cry. The colOrs principally used are dark blue
and red. One Is worked in the corners with
fantastic birds, and another has iG the four cor
ers Chinese men and boys. holding branches CT
the tea plant in their hands.
pretty housewife is In plush ornamented
with bands embroidered in contrasting colors
The handles are of the same cord as that used
70 edge the bag. and the tasscls show the CON-
olned colors OF the embroidery. As an orna-
mental piece large palm is applied in crimson
plush on an olive plush ground. The work is
executed in gold thread with coored silks
Another pretty decorative idea is that of
painting on lace, which is used to trim bonnets
and tea gowns. This is very dainty and the
cOlOrs should match those OF the other trim
mngs- The painting is done in water colors
tOlerably moist. mixed with Chinese white One
specimen has a good defined design or it and
was filed up III color. A pink rose was shaded
In deeper tint. and had some green leaves sur
rounding IT. and slight scroll was done i'm pale
blue This lace is arranged as cuffs ruiies and