The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1882-07-21
PRECIOUS STONES.
The Business In Diamond nds-O diamond CUT
tiDg-vniue of Briiiiants.


| tiDR-yaiue OF BriiIiants.
The custom-house people are uneasy
over the undoubted fact that great
many precious stones are smuggled into
this port from Europe 1t is compsr-
atively easy to conceal them, and the
ten per cent. duty exacted by the gov
eminent makes it hard for many morally
weak individuals to resist the temptation
to smuggle. The government officers
have been aware OF the evil for a long
time, and have been doing their best to
stop it, but the great disparity between
the volume Of trade in precious stones
and the amount of the goods declared
at the various custom houses by i'm
| porters shows that the government is
defrauded of large amount of revenue.
The passion for all sorts of fashion,
able gems is rapidly increasing in this
country; The price asked for them is
average increase in cost within the past
two years being fromsten to twenty-five
per cent. The discovery Of the African
diamond mines some six years ago
for while reduced the price OF dia-
monds, but the rapid growth of demand,
tin he United States chiefly, has re-
stored the equilibrium of the market.
The trade are now asking ten to fifteen
per cent. more for diamonds than was
asked fifteen months ago. New York
dealers in gems have had the most pros
porous business of their lives within
She past year and half. 1t is a COM
mon thing in New York society to see
&10, ,0G0 to $4,000 in diamonds on q
lady's person. At the fashionable en-
tertainments on Murray Hill, or at the
balls and garden parties at the watering
places in summer, one may literally see
bushels OF diamonds. Nearly every
woman has big solitaires in rings or
earrings. Ths Ia-es solitaire uiafnond
Is not preferred to the cluster. The
gentlemen wear few diamonds, and they
are likely to be mistaken for gamblers
il they wear solitaires. They wear
rings and studs of fancy stones, how
ever, and while ten years ago they were
eschewed by American gentlemen of
taste, the outfit of man of fashion now
is not perfect without them. Sapphires,
rubies, the amethyst, topaz, the en-
erald, cat's-eyts and the aqua marine
are the stones in most demand for
gentlemen's wear.
In the year 1881 gems to the value OF
$8,332, ,511 passed through the custom
house, which was nearly four times the
value OF those imported in 1871. Deal
ers say that all the more valuable stones
are now selling at the rate of six to one
as compared with 1871. New York is
already one OF the greatest markets for
gems in the world. Many people here
wear diamonds who, if living in Europe,
in the same social and financial position,
would not think of such thing. The
briskness OF the New York market is
naturally centering here all the indus
tries connected with preparing the gems
Tor the retail trade. Diamonds are now
largely imported in their natural state.
It is only six years since the first
oiamond-cutter who was proficient in
his business began work here. Now
there are quite namber of these skill
ed workmen in New York, and dealers
assert that their work is superior to that
OF either the Dutch, French, Greek or
English cutters and polishers. In proof
OF this rather remarkable statement,
they say that European dealers have re-
Gently sent diamonds in the rough to
that a GOOD ----y European-cut stones
are cut in a careless manner. and do not
compare favorably with the work of
American workmen in polish and brill
fancy. 1t takes at least four years to
learn the art of diamond. cutting. The
diamonds are found in alluvial deposits,
and are extracted by washing. Two OF
them are rubbed together until they re-
ceive shape in the rough. They are
finished by grinding on revolving disk
Of steel, which is covered with oil and
in the shape Of brilliants, and some in
the form Of rose, having a fiat bottom
and an upper surface Of tiny facets, and
ending in point. A flrst-class work.
man can cut and polish about FIVE dia-
monds week, and his wages range
from $40 to S75. The great secret OF
the trade lies in the knowledge of the
grade Of stones and how to cut them to
make them commercially most valuable.
II is the easiest thing in the world for
workman to ruin a stone. A flaw or q
scratch across its face deteriorates its
value fifty per cent.
Perfect brilliants of the first water are
now selling in this market: One-half
carat diamonds, $l75; one carat, $3.50;
two carats, $500. Diamonds of q large
size bring whatever can be obtained
from the purchaser, as no fixed price is
stated. When diamond is over five OF
six carats it is not very salable. An
importer in John street has had two |
diamonds, each twenty carats, in the |
market for years. and has been unable
TO sell them. The largest gem ever cut |
In this city was forty carat diamond.
II WAS off color, however, and was
bought by a gambler. Solitaire ear.
rings. two carats, are worth from 81, 200
10 81, 800, are large enough to produce
= striking effect. and many very wealthy
people prefer them to large diamonds,
which they think look clumsy. The
largest and most valuable diamond in
America is said 10 be owned by Maiden
Lane dealer. 1t is valued at $50, 900,
Weighs ffty-fye carats, is called "The
Pearl OF India" and is described as q
pure white, cushion shaped, double-cut
brilliant.
Merchants here claim that the nu-
merous imitation diamonds have never
materially injured their business. The
bogus stones are only passable imita
lions under the glare OF gas. Sunlight
readily exposes their real character. Oi
course the white translucent stone, frea
rom flaw and perfectly cut, is the mosi
valuable. Yellow, brown and jet-blacl
are readily found in thu
but pink diamonds are rare
New York Letter.