The new North-west. [volume] (Deer Lodge, Mont.) 1869-1897, 1882-09-22
THE NEW NORTHWEST.
Across the Rockies IN Montana.

From Bozeman 10 Helena Is about one
hundred miles, and the sparsely settled con-
dillon Of Montana will be understood when
1 say, that In the region settled seventeen
years ago, with the exception OF one little
mining village Of perhaps two hundred In
habltants, nothing which can be called
town Is seen In the whole journey. Aiittie
belt of farming settlement follows the banks
Of the Missouri for twenty miles below the
junction of the three rivers, and few creeks
coming down from the mountain sides are
dotted with ranches. The lines OF black
alders frnging these creeks can be seen ten
miles away--narrow, bright green ribbons
laid across the gray, bunch grass slopes from
the eorges In the foot hills down 10 the deep
valley of the river. There are very striking
yIews of the Belt mountains on the east aud
the main range Of the Rockies on the west
TO be had from high divides between the
creeks, and at one point the Missouri can De
seen for many miles-a clear, winding stream
embracing countless little green islands. The
country 10 covered with sparse growth OF
bunch grass growing In stands OF about
dozen stalks with bare spaces as large as
dinner plate between. The grass gives color
TO the valleys, slopes and hills; but nowhere
is Il thick enough TO look like All eastern pas
ture. Herds of horses aud cattle are seen
here and there. They look fat and content
I'D, but 10 thrive upon the scant grass they
REQUIRE wide range. As much as ten acres
OF grazing ground for each animal Is the
ranchman's usual estimate.
Helena Is a town of six thousand inhabi-
tants, wedged in cleft between bare hills
and debouching upon the plain as best 1t can
among enormous piles of stones and dirt
the debris of extensive placer mines. Scarce
" have the miners spared room enough for
the road to get into the town among their
hideous heaps and holes. An unciean busi-
ness this placer mining, carried on In The
mud and dirty water and leaving ghastly
gashes and scars on the face of the country.
The town is the outgrowtb Of a prosperous
mining camp-the Last Chance guleh, from
which II Is said more gold has been taken
than from any other single locality In the
world. Its situation as the nearest point In
the mining region to the head OF navigation
on the Missouri river at Fort Benton made
Helena distributing center In the days
when merchants brought In years supply
OF goods during the brief season OF navisa'
ton. Thus II got start as the chief COM
mercal town ofthe Territory. 1t still keeps
the lead, and will continue to keep 1t unless
the railroads should develop a larger town
In the Yellowstone Valley. Ugly to the
eye, with its scrambling, shadeless streets
clinging to the steep hills; its narrow,
crooked, ill-built business thoroughfare, and
It's blotch Of a Chinese suburb, Helena Is,
nevertheless, an Attractive place. The
traveller can enjoy his ease In comfortable
hotel, read the news morning and evening
in intelligent, we'll printed daily newspapers
take his choice Of seven churches on Sun
day, read the new publications In a public
library, supply his needs at stores as large
times as large In the east, and enjoy the
society of people who add to culture
that stamp of originality Of character SC
common in the far West, and 50 rare In old
communities. The town is singularly self
centered. Small as II Is, it has mettopoii'
tan airs. 1t does It's own thinking without
reference 10 Chicago or New York, and has
lis own code of morals. which includes the
federation OF public gaming houses on the
most eligible corners Of the main street.
People speak Of "the States" as # some far.
distant country In whose affairs they take
but slight interest. The height OF human
felicity, In their opinion, is 10 live In Mon
tana and tstrike IL rich" on a quartz lead.
The highest title to distinction is to be an
old resident. The red.faeed miner or ranch
man In big clay-colored sombrero, who
brings down his fist upon the bar aud says,
81 am an old Montaniap," feels as genuine
4 pride as did the Roman citizen Of old
when he boasted Of share In the empire OF
the world. To have come into the Terri
tory In 1862 Is an honor here as great ne a
lords title in England. The cordial hospi.
tally shown to strangers by the better
class of residents of the Montana towns Is
pleasant surprise. Acquaintance are essily
made and the traveller who lately was glad
Of chance TO unroll his blankets at night
on the floor OF q ranchman's cabin finds
himself entertained At bountiful tables
surrounded by the numerous Access
series of a tasteful and comfortable home
life. It Is a thousand miles across vast,
desolate spaces to the nearest city; but here
are books, pictures, pianos, and luxurious
furniture. The only noticeable difference
in the talk of social circles observed by one
fresh from the east, Is that the current news
and political discussions Of "the States" are
or slight interest here, and are rarely men,
toned, and that local affairs, including the
heroic days Of the Vigilance Committee, are
much dwelt upon. You will very likely
learn that the prominent lawyer or banker
who sits next you at dinner, was leading
yigilant and helped hang dozen murderers
and robbers. The papers give but meager
telegraphie summary of events in the world
oatside Montana, and the st. Paul aud Chi
cage papers are 90 old when they reach here
that they have but few readers. Hemmed
in by mountains and separated from the
well settled portions Of the west by wide
areas of vacant country, Montana has thus
far been q region apart, and has worked out
her own destiny without much help from
beyond. Soon the Territory will be ira
vsrsed from east to west by eight hundred
miles or railway. Population will pour 10
and the little mountain community, grown
to the dimensions of State, will assimilate
with the nation at large.
We crossed the main divide Of the Rockies
ut Frenchw oman's Pass, about fifteen miie'
northwest Of Helena. Tie pass gets 1T
name from woman who was murdered b!
her husband In the early days of Montana
settlement, and over II runs the main roa'
between Helena and the Upper Missoui