Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1882-08-09

PARIS, France, July %, 80.

Paris Letter.
PARIS, France, July %, 80.
July has only brought us fitful glimpses
of what is usually understood by July
weather. For one day of splendid. unal.
loyed sunshine we pay dearly in storms,
sharp winds that carry pungent atoms to
our eyes, and waves of comparative cold
that leave a sad residue bronchitis and
neuralgia in their wake. Despair at the
improbability of complete change having
taken possession of the Partisan mind, a
general determination to act in the teeth
of the wind and the temperature has got
about. Cotton materials having waited in
vain for suitable circumstances have to
manage as we'll as they can without.
Zephyr cloth is to be seen doing 'arduous
duty against the chilly elements, and the
insufficiency of their costumes Is remedied
by the addition of folds of muslin and lace
around the throat, with doubtless flannel
supplements beneath if indiscreet inquiry
be pushed SO far. Indeed, many dress.
makers provide flannel Innings, for silks
especially, as gentle sort of padding for
inconvenient irregularities rather than as
an additional stratum against a capricious
temperature. Certainly such silks set
better when stretched over this softly
yielding foundation-theyt are less liza Bile
to radiate in creases from those seams on
which the tension lies. The end kept
most in view now isithe. perfection of fit
and general proportion rather than any of
the old superlatives of wasp like waist
and sloping shoulders. As for the latter
they are points that score very little, the
fashion of vertically cut armholes and
frilled sleeves rendering every woman
more or less high shouldcred, even if
padding-an extreme measurable not
resorted to. A flannel lining to the upper
part Of the sleeve cannot be classed under
the same head as padding, though in
minor degrer it answers the same purpose.
Partisan dressmakors have gradually
grown into the way of providing all the
accompanimentsl at the same time with
the gown. mo dress is sent home without
its attendant ruchings at throat and wrists,
its proper amount of 6Glaqeuse tackled
beneath the hem, while the ladder of stiff
muslin frills tied into the back breadths,
and the eiderdown or horse hair cushion
beneath the pouf, is as much part of it
as the whalebones and pockets. With all
this garnish it may be argued that one
material is as good as another, so long as
it is opaque. But then the eye has also to
be INDUCED. and it does not do for toilet
to evoke SILVER in the spectator. There
fore the warm properties of deep shades
are used as q counter action, and dark
colored cottons are preferred to light
There is Foile d Alsace as supple as
silk, and with tones almost equally good
whereas with the sateens the dyers are
even more successful, and the most ex.
perienced eyes may be deceived at very
short distance. Bright blue is almost the
best, without counting navy blue, now
much worn in its very darkest shades with
white or light blue spots, or spots OF many
colors, like the brilliant orhs of the Roman
candles to delighted so soon at the peoples
fete. The black lace skirt occupies the
position formerly held by the black silk
dress-that democratic robe par excellence
suitable to long and short purses and to
manifold circumstances, being as the oc-
casion warrants, sufficiently elegant as
we'll as scdately unobtruslve. The lace
skirt may do still more, and serve as a
slip to an additional train of satin for full
dress purposes, punches of crimson ribbons
adding the necessary bit Of color, or roses
crimson or Notwithstanding 1t still
further when necessary. Masculine taste
has adopted dark navy blue-almost black
in its effect, with white spots, for summer
shirts of Foulard, ties, Lillethread socks.