Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-11-29
WINTER FASHIONS IN NEW YORK.
1z0sS to Combine Warmth with Least
MISUNDERSTANDING Drcss-The Dress
OF s:sris-Wh1t IL Costs - Christmas
Cards and Parties.
from Our Own Corres?onden.-

NEW YoEK Nov 2S.h.
The most noticeable change i'm dress is one
that is hardly visible 70 the careless observer. IL
Is the decided ideas women are beginning to en-
terrain o.. the subject the gradual release from
the dogmatiS.n of sclfc0nstitutcd authorities.
and the stronger end truer artistic feeling-that
h. desire to carry olt a single idea in a
single cos:une or garment. and not
weaken or destroy it 10y the introduction of dis
turbing influences. i have Often alluded ic
these letters to the tendency to Xix colors,
fabrics, elements in deS -. ard the Hke-nOt in
such way - 40 produce harmony. but disorder
6rG confusion of fragmentary ideas 1t is diff
cult even yet 20 di1crenti2te the true !cim the
simple un!tary designs. the natural tints and
graduation or complex hTmCnies OF color. from
the patchy substitutes which catch the eve of
the animated ard give them tine impression Of
getting more style as well as more material for
their money. A simple example will serve The
h1est and most expensive cloth Jackets and
suits aIF plain or only enriched by hand stitch
Ing OF Work-tO have the ciiitS. collars and
pockets Of silk or velvet yulsarizcS instead Of
enhancing the appearance bat the chcan buyer
always wants these additions and the mUre con-
spicuousiy hostile they are To the material upon
which they are grated the more the article will
be likely to strike her fancy.
The effort on the part of the best authorities
and most tasteful women of the present is to
mass single effects and leave them undiSturbed
or to work out a more complicated idea with
due regard to the laws of circumstance and pre-
portion, so that the result shall be. as in the
nrst instance, harmonious and satisfying
while giving evidence of the exercise of more
Thought and skill The street 6rcss of cloth Is
perfectly plain but beautifully fitted. The
evening dress of silk or satin is overaid with
priceless lace and beaded embroideries or net
work. The walking dress is as dark and unob-
firm .ix- hot
evening dress is not only composed of the light
est and brightest cOiors. but reflects ali that
exist on the earth, in the air. in the sky, or in
the water.
The same tendencies are seen in head-sear
There are hats AID bounetS Oi tweed and softer
cloth. with a ToS1tte of small folds ui the mate
rial for ornament or birds wing: and there
are tiny bCnncts which look like one immense
Jewel or IKE an aigr@tte OF feathers. with q dia
mond star in it. There are small turbans and
English walking hats matte OF the feathers of
the barEyard fowl laid one over another, and
there are cavalier and Picturesque hats of vel
vet or fur. with u small fortune upon them in
the shape Of broad magnificent ostrich plI.r'es.
Two distinctive elements NAV appear in z cos
tune. but they must be arranged aitistically
and intellectually. not i'll an ClectieSs. incon-
gruOus, or simply disturbing manner. For eX
ample, q costume may bc composed OF velvet
and wool but instead OF cutting UP the velvet
In small pieces and making blisters of them here
and there upon the skirt and the Jacket plain
walking skirt will be made wholly of velvet. a
graceful pOloEaSe wholly of wool and the vel
vet will rcappear in II plain round shoulder cape.
which AIDES the requisite amount OF finish and
warmth.
F;.r Is fashiorab!v used as a wide border this
season to the long coats OF cloth or velvet.
These compose almost the entire dress only
rim OF gathered or pleated fiOuGce showing be-
low; and with them is Worn fur or Embroidered
hats. trimmed with bani of fur or with featl-
ers only The wide fur trimming or solid cloth
or velvet is the TOst effective of trimming but
1t loses all its distinction if it is associated with
. many-cOlored fiower-trmmed bonnet.
distinct effort is being Made also to reduce
Che amount Of clothing heretofore supposed
necessary for warmth. OF rather the number of
irregular garments which have burdened one
part of the body and left the other exposed.
The complete knitted enlargement. now so
well shaped and made beautifully soft. is sup
plementeti by a second which serves as chclmise
drawers and corset cover One handsome
Knitted skirt in blue. olive or garnet wool is
sufficient over these for warmth and relieves
the waist from the pressure forced upon it 10y
many bands and skirts. Instead of this skirt
Lady HarbertOnS idea might be adopted of a
divided skirt or drawers with waist attached
made in the material of the short dress and
this would make the warmth and thickness
over the body uniform throughout The
Irrational Dress Society," of which Lady
Haberfon is president. has recently offered
prizes for models Of dresses which will fulfil
certain conditions but uniformity of dresses
among all classes and conditions of wCmen is
not TO De expected nor among the representa-
tiyes of any one Class nor is it perhaps des:ra-
BILE. At any rate if is opposed to the present
genius and tendencies OF human societies. and
there is no use in trying to make water flow
uphill.
GIRLS ALLOWANCE.
"a Mother" writes asking what would be
considered a fair allowance for the dress of a
rirl h,l in,
tants, where there is good deal of dress; but
where the necessities are not quite those of a
great city The father is respectable merchant
end the mother has small income of her own.
out of which she dresses her two girls, the elder
Of whom she considers ought how to learn how
TO dress herself and manage her own affairs.
She asks if 20 per weel, (S2G0 yearly would be
o sufficient sum and how it should be expended.
She begs also that the reply MAY be given so
that other mothers may have the advantage
(f any to be derived from it,
Under the circumstances stated by this lady
s. per week ought to be quite sufficient for her
daughters dress. and. If well managed and not
expended in large DISSEMINATING or sewing bills
Should afford margin for such emergencies as
even girl is liable to meet who participates in
modern social life, and who is saved much
embarrassment 10y being able to act indepen-
IDENTITY. 1t is not Well however. to give girls
or boys the habit OF spending freely They
should always have to calculate in regard to
their outlays and incomes or the educational
purpose of entrusting them with money not Of
their own earning, will be lost snht of and the
pleasure OF sacrificing inclination TO the niger
desire OF giving or doing for others will be un-
known.
An early lesson too. 70 be learned is not TO
buy what Is unnecessary because il is pretty or
attracts the eye. The majority OF pretty-lookinn
things are useless or c:iiineat!y unsatisfactory
and though the most Of Us have To obtain this
experience by paying more or less for it. yet we
need fewer lessons if conscience is additionally
pricked by necessity
Girls who can sew and largely make their own
clothes have an immeasurable advantage over
those who are too indOlent to correct their
ignorance in this respect. There are poor girls
who are dependent upon hard-wOrhino fathers
or brothers who spend large sums for work
which they ought To be happy and thankful to
execute for themselves; andIherc are daughters
Of rich men yho make ali their own dresses and
enrich every gift which they present to others
with their own lovely handwork O. sirls !,
Bright. Intelligent. sweet as YOU are. how much
Of the burden it is in your power to lift from
aching shoulders: how much OF beauty To add
TO this life. which is often so grey and dreary
and sad,-if you could but see and know il.
But what of the possibilities of So per week !: