The Evening critic. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1881-1885, 1882-09-04
CHkUTAUQUA LAKE,
where md what IL is-Chnrming
Scenery. Delightful Atmosphere,
Lovely Peoplc-A Pen Picture Of
al

CHAUTAUQVA bAhl' aug NDs-ii"NV wv
route Of the L. 8. Il NJ. $. road out of Cleveland
In nm casterly and slightly northerly direction
on tho map, up through Monitor, Ohio farther
ON through Erie, Pa, stlll farther and through
the corner Of tho Keystone state, until you
penetrate New York short distance In the
extreme Northwestern corner, md you reach
Brocton junction, on the Bufralo Plttsburg
road. Your oyc, gentle reader, now turn
wee bit south on this thoroughfarc, and
short distance fotches your vision to tho littlo
old town OF Mayvlllo. This 10 the scat Of Chau-
tauqua County, n. ", and Is ut the head of
Chautauqua Laltc-"a body OF water higher In
altitude than any othor navlgable water on
this hemisphere" writes connolssour. May.
Vile is located on tho brow of an abrupt in-
cllno and Is as dry as n powder magazine. 1t
is very diminutivo place, plated evidently
by tho Pilgrims, but is a pleasant relief to one
who has been sandwlched down In the hustle
of u metropolis for a long period. one OK.
changes his linen ulster for an ovorcoat at
Mayvlllo and In disdain casts away his dusty
palmleaf and buttons up his vest. Tho
dry, cool atmosphere relieves him OF the lar
borlous duty of wiping OF his chin, and when
the wharf n reached for cmbarkatlon TO one of
the many resorts on the borders of tho lake
the traveller Is as cool as n vegetable garden,
as fresh as II mint julip and as buoyant as u
Sullivan.
The Scenery is Enchanting.
1t Is poetic, inspiring, scrumptious. The
docks are fringcd In every direction with the
prettiest, cleanest, most accommodating
steamers one ever saw. Some are large, with
triple decks and spacious holds, while others
are of the yacht pattern so numerous now on
the Potomac. The larger series OF steamers
are OF style which should BIO followed by tho
pleasure boat builders who supply tho Wash
ington boatmen. They nre very long and mar
row and are lindcrcuts. There is sharp ri.
valry In the boating business, and 1t Isn't the
slightest bit of trouble TO get boat for any
point on tho lake at almost any hour of the
day. Their speed is high, their accommoda-
lions flrstclass, and their patronage large.
Every hotel Is supplied with a goodly number
of row-boats, which are ut the pleasure of the
finds every conceivable comfort here he finds
no extras charged to him when he settles his
board bill. The landlords OF tho Eastern re-
sorts would die OF dry rot II they were COM
PEELED TO be rivals to the hostlerles OF Chau-
tauqua Lake. The inn-keopers are generous
and Jolly, and their attentions arc as perfect
as Yankee ways and Western principles can
Bemus Point.
stopped at Bemus Point, resort midway
between Mayville and jamestown, on tho
eastern bank OF the lake and on the peninsula
wns met at the dock by Mr.. lothian Bemus
proprietor OF the Bemus cottages, which com.
pose one OF the prettiest places here. Here, as
elsewhere at modern resorts, cottages are TAX
Ing the lead In accommodations, but there are
enormous hotels, with airy piaz2as and beau
tiful lawns and gushing fountains and SPLEEN
did comforts on every hand. The Jolly and
corpulent Mr.. Bemus placed me In very clever
quarters In a cottage hanging or the brow of q
hill overlooking the placid lake, where speed
the scudding steamers and sail boats at all
hours Of the day, and with the caro- OF father
remarked that he hoped l would enjoy the
crispy breezes, the chestnut forests about the
cottages, and that the believing COWS In the
pastures hard by would I'LL tho place of the
rustllng wheels Of the busy city.
And he rubbed his fat sides, poked me ono in
the abbreviated portion of my person and say
Ing something about supper time and his fresh
bass and pickerel, hurried or to look after the
comfort OF other guests.
A Chautauqua Picture.
l have been tho means OF causing the ''sud.
den and mysterious disappearance" OF uuantl-
ties of prepared bass and piokerel fresh from
the lake, and muflns, and steaming tea and
other mouth. moistening dainties so plenteous
here, and sit now In rustic seat at the edge
of the lake, looking west. To my back is tho
cluster OF Demus cottages, clinging like Ivy to
the hills which gallop up and down. 1t 10
still, save the laughter OF playing children
and the snorting steamers thuggtng away far
out on the quiet Lake and making their last
round for the day. Evening has settled down
upon the scene, but the impulses OF darkness
are dispelled by n bright full moon which
creeps up In the East and like filtered love
parts the veil and kisses the cheek of the
lonely sage. The lovely forest of chestnuts
the chirping nightbird. The narrow roadway
which winds along the lake at the foot OF the
| hills is deserted. Tho clang of the horses
| hoofs has ceased. The oars which have been
all day long dextrously piled in the bosom OF
the now quiet Chautauqua lay In confusion al
| my feet, and the rowboats which have carried
over the bosom OF the crystalline water the
| loads OF gay human freight from early morn
| Till twilight, with keels upturned, rest like
| tired steeds on the beach below. The pale
| soft light of the moon gives the waveless sheet
| of water before me silver color-a sheen
like look. Far up the lake lies the Chautau
qua camp-grounds. The church doors are
closed. No sound reverberates over the space
| of water intervening. The few remaining
| visitors have closed the doors OF their cottage
| and repaired to peaceful dreams, and tho visi
tors near me have adopted q like reserve
| There is now no sound audible to my ears
| No children seLd up their merry laughter
and no echo comes TO me from the lake. TIL
| air is chill, and leave the lonely spot ant
HE away to sleep of the drunkenness OF tn
view.
Chautauqua Lake
| is one of the prettiest bodies OF water In tn
world: ills twenty miles long, and an ave,
age OF four miles in width. 1t is fed b
| springs, and Is as limpid as the waters OF tn
gods. Its banks are high, and whom not lai
OF In grand old farms, are decked with pin
Hudson is more sublime only by the height
| only because It shows better by Its eminenc
| o. higher altitude. The lake has no current
termed an ''outlet," which is nothing NOR
than narrow, crooked-neck tail, runnin
down to jamestown. charming new Englan
The air is perfectly pure, and hay fever an
malaria subjects not only grow fat here BIT
| are entirely relieved of their ills. 1t ia quiC
or lively along the lake, Just as you like
At ohautauqua, where the great reyivals III
held, II is very lively. At Bemus Point 1t
what You want to make H. but always plea
ant. There is relaxing nature stalkin
| about, which dissipates ones insipid or owe
taxed energies, and stocks up the empty war
houses OF life. Grave people become poetic
| old bachelors fall In love; rheumatics loI
their crutches; dyspeptics become musician
| widows are made wives; old men grow younl
equity folks are promo to play pranks and pc
petrate risky capers; unawares, one Is rel
OF the place, with II heathfulness, makes
very desirable for all classes.
POtpOurri.
The guests IRE largely from Cleveland, OF
cinnati and Pittsburg.
Although Chautauqua Is famous as a rel
lous peoples rendezvous, Ingersolllans CT
find no possible objection TO the place as
| sort.
Nearly two weeks have elapsed since the O
| sembly adjourned, but there Will be ma
guests here six weeks hence.
Overcoats are pleasant. Thermometers
dictate from 05o to so.
, Governor Porter, Of Indiana, has Gotta
| here.
People pray, sing, fish for bass and picker
go boating or hunting, instead of politics.
New Yorker served an old.fashioned ella
bake here last week. one hundred perso
were feasted. CEDRIC
WOman's Christian Temperan
Union.
The ladies Of the W. q. II. U. have kept
their Gospel meetings in Masonic Hall, thu
! headquarters, all summer, and much inter,
ia manffested every Sabbath good audionc