Morning journal and courier., 1882-03-21
Price Four Cents,

'levite." On the lower part of the skirt replacing hounces, is a double cloth chicoree trimming, bordered with a red satin trim ming which falls below the goods and is lined with green satin The next may be of red or green moire, according to fancy. and the piece falling below of the other color. Each suit may have two vests, one of the same goods, the other of mofre The vest may be false, but if so there can be but one for the suit. 4 false vest is only used for walking suits. Plush will be en- ployed until warm weather comes. Young ladies from l5 to r years of age wear the
 ley1te Dorsay' of plain or fine checked cloth Tn such colors as dark green, seal. iron gray over surah, cachemire or moire dresses. One of these dresses has dark green cloth 'redingote Dorsay," with the collar and cuffs of dark green plush. The plush over skirt IS cut out on the border, and the under skirt has on the lower part cloth chieoree trimming surrounded by four narrow plait- lngs, two of satin and two of Boolen goods. The high '" bise" vest is cut exactly like 8 mans vest, with high linen collar and hat craTat. For more dressy purposes 2 light blue plush vest is made with the suit This suit may serve for house dress with a hght slIk oyerdress, which is generally of a last years fabric, and a waist and scarf tu- nlque. The paniers and back draperies are ~ellj fastened, and by taking of the redin- gote and vest the dress Is ready for indoor wear. When light silk or satin toilet is rather old, 1t can be used to great advantage TOT little girls dresses combined with dark colored plush. Take, as an example salmon colored failIe combined with reddish brown plush or light pink and blue silk with garnet plush Light blue Is also combined with green and pink and green with seal color. fretty little redingOtes are of ''cLasseur'' velvet in such colors as green, red or blue. Ihey will be worn over fine white embroi- dered dresses.
 Painters are stIIl the style It is quite an art to arrange them properly For a tall. slight figure the panier may be well puffed over the hips, and it is necessary that it should have some body. For a short. stout figure 1t should be very small. and placed q little toward the back of the hips. 4 tall, stout person may employ the large Louis XV panier, which IS also placed rather toward the back of the skirt.
 "Tournures" are again in general use. They should be narrow, light, supple. and fitted to the figure. The object of the tour nure is to make the waist appear slender and give form to the figure. The tournure is in dlspensable with the panier as the latter nat urally enlarges the hips
 Among the ornaments most iu use at r7res- ent are diamond buckles for the hail. to fasten on the shoulder, to raise the train. to close velvet around the neck and in fact to be placed on all parts of the toilet There are also very pretty waist trimmings for those who cannot afford diamonds. Trimmings of roses are used on the borders of evening toi- lets. These are not like the cordings SO oft en described, but are close cording of fuI roses, with leaves placed over the edge of the hem and not above it. The hem is only sup ported by double lace balsyeuse 4 trim ming for half mourning use consists of black blonde with white silk designs.
 toilet for visiting purposes is Of reddish brown and caroubler satin. The red satin body of the skirt forms an apron and Is bor- dered with a narrow huted founce The remainder of the skirt has a similar founee of brown satin On either side of the apron Is reddish brown satin panel The apron Is partly covered by two white lace ruffles extending all the way down the centre and crossed diagonally by double ribbons in the two colors, placed at regular intervals and tied on the left side in small bows This forms down the front a kind of lacinc The right side of the skirt is perfectly flat, while the left side has large box-plait embroidered on the lower part. On the side toward the back IS very narrow crossEise fiuting In the back is puffed breadth fastened down in the middle of the skirt and terminating in lengthwise plating. The brown satin waist opens in shawl shape, and has a large en- broldered collar, with narrow ribbon taken dlagonaIly across the open part to match the skirt trimming. The basque is trimmed with rich embroidery. The sleeves have a deep embroidered cuff and small ribbon bow The back of the waist is tailleur shape and forms two box plaits. The black straw hat matching this suit has brim shading the eyes, though not deep, trimmed with a broad jet band. On the left side is bird of para disc. The crown of the hat Is rather high.
 Suits of fine surah checked goods have founces with hollow plaits combined with outings. This style is suitable for satin IralEiDu 1rarcac vi cd ish lace. Some of the old styles to be brought out are ''toiles de laine" mohairs, satins de laine, and glazed material former ly called ''levantine. 9 Of this beautiful toilets are to be made. Rich suits have the skirts flat in front, with chicoree trimming on the lower part. The material is-either broche or plain satin, with embroidered or checked moire antique panels.
 The polonaise habit and princess polonaise will be worn early in the spring for half mourning and ordinary walking purposes. They are raised by two eordings to form a double drapery- These are fastened under bow on the position.
 There are not many new bOnnets to be seen yet Capotes are up to the present time the favorite shape. The eapote Parisienns of brown straw has a wreath of fine flowers and moss combined with berries and sprigs of gold The front sets little up from the head On the left slde Is bunch or blue tips. The wide fawn-colored satin strings are tied under the chin in large bow. On the top of the crown Is an Alsatian bow of satin of the same color. ruby -colored satin capOte is embroidered with garnet colored beads. black Spanish lace barbe is fastened againt the bonnet by a garnet and gold buckle. On the side is a bunch of pink feathers shaded with ruby color. The wide strings are of Spanish lace. Another style Is hat with a moderate sized brim raised on one side. It is of seal-colored puffed satin. The brim is lined with pink satin pulling. Across the front and falling down the left side are red plumes shaded with pink. A head-dress for indoor wear has a crown of bouton dor satin trimmed with white blonde, and a satin trimming raising the lace on the right side. In among the ribbon loops on the side are three metal pins fastened to cross each other. Another coifure has a crown of silk tulle gauge trimmed with Spanish lace. Around the crown is garland of velvet and satin roses with chenille leaves i and satin loops falling over the chignon. How Ice is Made in Georgia. From Atlanta Letter in Hartford Tinss.l We have visited the establishment of the