Knoxville daily chronicle. [volume] (Knoxville, Tenn.) 1870-1882, 1882-12-17
FASHIONS FOR THE WINTER.
Novelties for Nimble- Wittad arisian
Dress-Makers.
The New Tunique Redinget".-Rich
Fabrics for Evening Weary elvet
Toilets in Style Again---Ban
Dresses Pretty Petit
coats.

Partisan dress-makers are actively en-
gagged in preparing visiting and dinner toi
lets for the winter season. Rich oarl
dresses can always be used for such occa
sions by making some slight changes IN TN
cut or trimming of the waists. New 'tunl
ones redingotes" have been brought out To-
visiting purposes. One of these, made fol
a bridal rousseau, is of green and Pini
brocaded ottoman velvet. The waist ano
sleeves are of green ottoman velvet Inc
long skirt has three plaiIings, two OF green
velvet. and the third and centre plalt Oh
pink faiIle, fringed and arranged to form
moss trimming. Above these plants Is
bias brocaded founce with very little ful
ness. Surmounting this founce is loose
putfing. also with very little fulness. 1t Ii
of the same depth as the hounce, and under
lined with a double fringed pink and green
rnching. Above this trimming is short
brocade apron, falling perfectly fiat. The
oyersklrt opens to initiate two long redin
cote ends, and has two wide, flat plaits IL
the back, with four smaller ones on either
side, This unique without drapery is one
of the novelties of the season, and is made
of all kinds of broche goods and embossed
velvet. 1t will be most generally adopted
for ,llk toilets. as it has over a redingote
the advantage of being dress, while the
redingote. even when of brocaded goods, il
but an outer garment
Among the rich fabrics for evening wear
are grenadines worked with chenille III sew
eral shades, such as gray, blue or moss
green, and toilets in Louis XIV. style, with
Vatican designs. They are ivory white
groundings, and tiny punches of flowers III
Louis XIV style, trimmed with ribbon bows
all shades. Fabrics with lozenge-shaped
patterns in Smyrna tones or In any colors,
such as French, blue, red, old gold color,
brown and green ''pekinees" stripes, have
the same disposition of colors as the stripes
of satin or velvet. Striped velvets are
shaded in such combinations as old blue and
kink. .reen and strawberry, and blue and
wood. Silk armures havelghtgray surround
ings, with the damask designs ID colors-
'"lrianon' brocatelleS in two shades have
ottoman ecru groundings. Gilded ecru and
cream groundings are IN as much favor as
ever. Pushes with ivory groundings bor-
dered with Scotch plaid serve for paniers
and draprie, and for trimmings around
basques. All the fancy rich fabrics have
plain materials to correspond with them.
Velvet toilets are to be extensively worn this
winter. There are different qualities en-
ployed, from the most costly Lyons velvet
to the ordinary English goods. The hand
soonest qualities for rich velvet toilet, are,
without doubt, plain or embossed Lyons
velvet or Genoa velvet, called ''Cellini"
velvet, with plush embroidery. Some
toilets of the last named article are both
novel and odd. For ordinary daily wear the
arge Manchester manufactures provide
English velvets, which are both expensive
md snowy. The new English yelvets in all
,olors are much used.
Dress makers make very advantageous
lse of the ribbon bows employed by mod
stes. Thew are cut like a cocks crest.
BOnnets are positively covered with this
A toilet just completed by one
If the most fashionable French dress
makers is surrounded by kind of full
.uching, consisting wholly of these loops
md ends of ribbons in ali shades of violet.
ALI these ribbon-ends closely pressed to-
,ether make the newest and most charming
imaginable. walking suit made
N the same establishment as the above is
also worthy Of special notice. 1t Is of blue
ottoman cloth, plated in large round plalts
The cloth unique forms two draperles
crossing over the front, AID a prettlly
draped putting III the back. The Louis XIV
waist Is pointed back and front. The col
lar Is straight, and the sleeves are light tit
ting. The trimming consists of a garland
of plnks embroidered In sOutache work.
This trimming SURF unds tie draperles on
the apron and waist The leaves and
branches of this work are flat, while the
lowers are raised and narrow, thus detach-
ng, as it were, the flowers completely from
he remainder of the garment
A ball dress may be of mousseline DEL
Inde and Er5Esh lace The white taffetas
shirt has on It's lower part three narrow taf-
etas plaItlngs surmounted by deep plated
muslin founce. Up the front of the skirt
hree deep lace hounces. The taffetas
waist is covered with silk muslin The
oanlers of the same start from the lower
part of the pointed waist from under mar
low putting. The back Is princess shape
md forms tiny putting. The waist is ut
very low on the shoulders and crossed in
ichu in front. The point on the LEFT side
passes under the one on the right, which is
fastened near the hip under a bunch of
lowers. The '.Marquise" sleeves terminate
lboye the elbow with deep lace trimming
The hair is dressed low with two ringlets
roses on the right side. Another
ball dress may be of white satin and blonde.
The satin apron is pulled and covers the
whole front of the skirt. Cordngs of roses
and violets cover the apron, and are placed
1t regular intervals, with the puffings show
ing between each space. On the lower
part of the skirt is a full garland of roses
and violets, with ruched satin plating
falling below. The panier is of blonde,
and draped up in front under the sharp
point of the waist. The white satin train
has blonde draperies. The white satin
Waste is cut square in the neck, back and
front, and surrounded by rather deep
piece of blonde lace, which extends down
the front in imitation of a vest. The short
sleeves consist of narrow plating. The
hair Is crimped in front, and has a gill
comb in the back covered with flowers. In
the centre Of the Waste is also bunch of
roses.
Some of the new waists have large
hooesplerre" revers in incarnadine color,
garnet or green velvet. For evening dress
IS with trains over two yards long, which
are now IN wear, waists have long points in
ront and often form one piece in the
pacK- These trains are narrow and fall in
ueeP plalts from the starting point, They
ara generally lined with satin in color
contrasting, as they are taken up over the
arm when dancing. Waists which are cut
oval In the neck have pointed vests of light
coIored satin richly embroidered with gold
Unread, silk and pearl beads High-necked
waists, for visiting and dinner purposes,
nave the large oval and breast piece of vel
VET or Ottoman goods ina dark shade, en-
broldered with silk and metal thread in
arabesque designs. Either silver or gold
cordlng Is taken around the lower border.
or o'clock tea, dresses of white yelling
trimmed with lace are very suitable.
The "Camargo" casaque of cachemre
may be worn with these
trimmed with ornaments, bows, strings. and
a belt of ruby -coiored velvet. The casaoue
may be of ruby colored velvet and can then
serve for several toilets. The ''Isabeaun
dress may be of electric blue fancy velvet
richly trimmed with marabout beaded fringe
and bows. The train and back of the waist
are in one piece, and the lower part spreads
IKE peacock's tail The imitation is made
more more perfect by the train being covered
- medallion or Oriental embroidery COM
stnI eu WIN apphques of feathers. This
olJlc VI dress Will e