New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-03-26
HOW CARVING MAY BE LEARNED.


NO SCHOOL IN THE CITY-TALKs WITH ARTISTS OF
TIE KITCHEN.
Several readers of The TRIBUNE have recently
written asking where they might find practical in
structlon in carving for the table. A TRIBUNE re-
porter set out accordingly the other day to ascer-
tain what means for education in carving existed.
Though unsuccessful in finding carving school, he
found sanguine prophet of one that Is to be when
he accOsed Fernand Fere, the indefatgable chef OF
the Astor House, who sitting in his little office
and taking frequent peeps through the window at
his army of cooks.
81 can tell good carver by the way he picks up
his knife said Mr.. Fere. "The art Is one that is
learned by practice and yet there are men who
have carved for twenty years, and do not yet know
how to do it. They will make mess of it, just as
some cooks will dress up dish so as to take ones
appetite away. Such will often get a position
because they speak French but if they go into the
kitchen they will drive away hundreds of dollars
worth of custom in little while. There will be a
chance for everyone to learn cooking and carving
when the Union Unverselle de DArt Gull
naire opens its school in this city,
which will be on October 1. 1t would
have been opened before. were it not
that we wish to take time to perfect every arrange
ment. Then. as people will soon be leaving the
town. and cooking is not very interesting in warm
weather, we will do better 10 wait until autumn.
We intend to hire some large hall in n good quarter
uptown, for the school. Only the most eminent
artists in cooking in the city Will give
the lessons. Each of these with an as
without remuneration. Every "Wednesday evening
a commtce will examine the learners Ia the lessons
that have been given in the preceding week. We
shall charge certain price for season tickets to the
course of Instruction Rich persons viii have to pay
for poor people; we shall give lessons free of
charge to those who are unable to pay for Them so
lof
accomplishment of cooking and so know when their
tables are well furnished the school will especially
benefit cooks, poor persons who nave 10 earn tnelr
We expect that marketmen will furnish free the
meats and vegetables necessary and after the dishes
oTmea cooked tested OF carved they Will be sent
probably TO charitable institutions or 10 poor fam-
lies We will probably arrange 10 teach the preDara-
ton of a certain bill of fare each week, beginning
with the soup and ending with the ices In warm
weather can teach the making OF light dishes or
have exhibitions of fruits, preserves etc. 1t Is also
expected that some instruction In the chemistry OF
foods and III the adaptation OF diet 10 the tempera-
ture of the year. as well as to the PERSONS
condition and occupation, will be given. In ten
wears expect New-YOrk to beat Paris in the matter
of cooks and cuisine. Ten years ago New Workers
were content with pork and beans or an Irish stew
But now they demand the best And why not We
have the products, and the money to pay for the
best. All we need Is that the men W no have be-
come experts and have taken degrees III the Paris
cooking schools should teach Others and elevate the
standard of this art, which Is SO interesting and
so important TO the happiness of the race.
Why, the Emperor William knows enough to
have French cooks. He has four of them and SIX
Germans as assistants. Prince Bismarck also has
French cooks"
The Union Univer5cle de LArt Culnaire will
hold an exhibition of all kinds of kitchen Inple-
ments, furniture and productions at Terrace Car
den IN May next. The committee in charge Is now
holding meetings every other day.
Behind, or rather beneath, the scenes at
DelmOnico'S, the reporter found the presiding
genius in snowyc cap and apron sitting IN his Office
and surrounded by thousand and one sayory
odOrs. lie said they had little use for carver, as
their meats and fowls were usually cut up before be-
ing cooked. lie knew of no place where carving was
taught. The head waiter said he knew of carving
schools IN Paris but i'll this city. Carvers, he
said were mostly needed in hotels like the Lang
ham and the Charing Cross in London where whole
fowls or joints of meat were put on the table and
cut in the presence of the guests. This plan is fol-
lowed in the rOtunda restaurant OF the Aston House,
and Mr. Stetson himself i'll former days wont to
carve side OF the table while his patrons ate
on the other.
Charles Delmonico said, on being appealed TO- that
he enjoyed watching Il good carver. Such one
would cut so clean, and strike SC true every
Joint and altogether would dissect fowl
perfectly, that it took carving out of the
region of drudgery into the realm of art.
But he never heard of instruction carving, aud
thought the only way to learn was to take "A knife
and practice. John Pinard expressed similar views.
Mr. Thompson, the steward of the Fifth Avenue
Hotel, SAID that carving learned by appren-
tees watching and working with experienced
caryers. That, at least. his theory. lie
thought ladies who wished to learn carving
should go and watch some good carver
though he was afraid he could not open the Fifth
Avenue Hotel kitchens for them. else they should
hire pTactised carver to give them lessons. lu-
quIries of other cooks and caryers brought no
further information. At the rooms of the New-iork
Cooking school young lady said positively that
they taught no carving there.
Rules for carving are given in some cook-books
but they are about as useful as rules for swimming