davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
A Chronicle of Neckties.

Neckties are of comparatively recent
date as articles of civilized costume,
and their introduction to fashionable
society was in the middle of the sever
tenth century. They became known
in England only towards the close of
Charles lbs reign. They have been
worn uninterruptedly since then but
through what marvellous changes and
stages have they not passed-from
broad to narrow, from long to short,
from grave to gay, from lively to
severe?" The materials have varied
almost as much as the form, and the
original band of white linen has given
way periodically to brighter and more
costly stuffs, fashion returning ever
and again to its starting-point. AS
worn by the handles in the time of
.harles H., the tie was of exquisitely
fine linen, with ends of lace, and was
a somewhat costly appendage, as may
be gathered from the facts, that in the
Great Wardrobe accounts for 1884
and 1856, Charles III. Is charged EGO
Us. for "a new tie to be worn on the
birthday of his dear brother :" and
James JI. is charged f36 los. for the
cravat of Venice lace to wear on the
day of his coronation. In the Great
Wardrobe accounts of q later period
is an item of William Ills expendi-
ture. ITO six point neckties, fl56."
In the time of William I'LL, ties were
worn extremely long. and the handles
of the day were prone to pass the ends
through the buttonholes Of the waist
coat, in order to prove the excessive
length of their neckcloths. In France,
Louis XIV. had welcomed the fashion
with open arms, and was always o
spicuous for the magnihcence of the
embroidery and lace that decked his
royal neck. Presently an improve
ment was made in the white linen
and lace, which were judged too deli
cate, too easily soiled and cravats
were made of black silk and of silk Of
all colors. A great variation of the fash
ion arose also in 1892, and from no less
mighty acause than the battle of Stein
kerque. 1t was related that the French
officers dressed themselves in great
haste for the battle, and twisted their
cravats c9eIessly round their necks;
and, in commemoration of the glorious
victory achieved by the Marechal de
Luxembourg over the Price of
Orange on that occasion, a studied
negligence in the mode Of wearing q
cravau became . rage in France, and
was termed u la Steinkerque. Stein
kerks, as they were 500 called, were
worn in France by men and women ;
and, of course, as a consequence, wo-
men soon took to wearing cravats as
well az men. The Steinkerk was
generally made of fine linen with q
broad frill of lace at each end some
times the more economical among the
handles of the day wore black silk
s~teinkerks; but as prudence or econ
omy were not the conspicuous points
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Eating before Sleeping.

Man is the only animal that can be
taught to sleep quietly On an empty
stomach. The brute creation resent
all efforts b coax them to such a viola
ton of the laws of nature. The lion
roars in the forest until he has found
his prey, and when he has devoured
ii he sleeps over until he needs an
other meal. The horse will paw all
night in the stable and the pig will
squeal in the pen, refusing all rest of
sleep until they are fed. The animals
which chew the cud have their own
provision for a late meal just before
dropping off to their nightly slumbers.
Man can train himself to the habit
of sleeping without a preceding meal,
but only after long years of practice.
AS he comes into the world nature is
too strong for him, and he must be fed
before he will sleep. A child's sto-
mach is small, and when perfectly
filled, If no sickness disturbs it, sleep
follows naturally and inevitably. AS
digestion goes ON the stomach begins
to empty. A single fold in it makes
the little sleeper restless; two will
waken it and if it is hashed again to
repose the nap is short. Paregoric or
other narcotic may close its ey es again,
but without either food or some stupe-
flying drug it will not sleep, no matter
how healthy it may be. Not even an
angel who learned the act of Minis
trelsy in a celestial choir san sing a
babe to sleep upon an empty stomach.
We use the oft-quoted illustration,
sleeping as sweetly as an infant"
because this slumber of a child follows
Immediately after its stomach is COM
pletely filled with wholesome food.
The sleep which comes to adults long
after partaking of food, and when the
stomach is nearly or quite empty, is
not after the type of infantile repose.
There ia all the difference in the
world between the sleep of refresh
ment and the sleep Of exhaustion.
To sleep well the blood that swells
the veins in the head during our busy
hours must flow back, leaving a
greatly diminished volume behind the
brow that lately throbbed with such
vehemence. To digest well, this blood
is needed at the stomach and nearer
the fountains of life. 1t is 8 fact estab-
lished beyond the possibility of con
tradiction that sleep aids this diges-
ton, and that process of digestion is
conducive of refreshing sleep. 1t
needs no argument to convince us of
this mutual relation. The drowsiness
which always follows the well-ordered
meal is itself a testimony of nature to
this inter-dependence.-New York
Journal of Commerce.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08

Of the age, the marvellously delicate
linen and costly lace were more gene
raj. Ladies wore steinkerks of various
materials, either in linen, lace, or
colored silks; on them it became sim
ply a kerchief wound about the neck
instead of being spread over the shoul-
ders. Many people still possess among
their family relics long, oval-shaped
brooches of topaz or Bristol stones,
and wonder what purpose they served.
These old-fashioned articles of Jewell
ry were worn to fasten (when no
passed through the buttonhole) the
lace steinkerk, which was prevalent
for a long time in all classes of society.
The steinkerk gave way, eventually,
in favor of stocks and frills, and neck
cloths had many important changes to
undergo before they reached their pre-
sent inoffensive form. The neckcloth
held an important place in costume
last century the art Of folding it and
tying it was a serious one, not to be
passed over. The character of
certain stuffs, the aspects of particular
bows, the Specification of the disposal
of the ends, formed the subject of
critical essays and lengthy discussions,
and some of the cravats of the period
were immortalized in sonnets.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Sarcasm and Sugar.

A sugar refining company in Iowa
has shut down lowing to the high price
of conn., The malt factories will be
the next to go. The mysterious SYM
patty which exists between corn on
the one hand, and sugar, malt, syrup,
and various other products on the
other, has long been the subject of COM
mon remark. Its Iamifications go
further than most people suppose.
An advance in corn, for example,
makes hogs worth more, and the cost
of hogs affects the value Of grease,
which is the base Of oleomargarine.
The price of butter, for some unex-
planned reason, depends more upon
the supply of the diaries. "Sympa-
thy is the universal law Of trade"
Articles Of merchandise, apparently
the most diverse in their ingredients
and uses, advance and fall in prices by
the operation of this mysterious law.
Alum and baking powder, chicory
and coffee, cabbage leaves and cigars,
rise and fall together, Does n wish
to know the price of chewing tobacco,
he looks at the quotations of liquorice.
Would you learn what -four is worth,
then see what meal is held ut. Terra
alba and confectionery go together ;
so do cheap shoes and paper, calico
and starch, chalk and milk. There is
nothing more beautiful than this
secret law ofsympathy between mani
mate objscts.-C Chicago Tribune
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Head Hunters.

In Mr.. Books account Of life amonC
the Dayaks (the Head-Hunters of
Borneo), the great national custom of
" head hunting" has, OF course, q
large place. In spite of the efforts of
the Dutch to put it down, it goes on
still 50 briskly outside their borders
that many tribes are on the way to
mutual determination in order to get
one another's skulls to wrap In ba-
ans leaves, and hang up TO decorate
the houses. The boys initiation into
manhood is to go on an attack upon a
neighboring tribe, for he cannot
marry until he has a head to show as
a proof of bravery. Nor does the
bloOdthirsty business stop here, for
the young warriors wedding, such
public events as the naming of a
Rajah's newborn son, and, above all,
a Rsjah's death, with its demand for
heads of enemies to be taken in order
that their souls may go as his servants
in the next world--these and other
reasons are always forthcoming to
make val everlasting between tribe
and tribe. Yet our traveller confirms
the contrast, so usual among barba-
rians, between this ferocity to aliens
and the kindly home life. The Da-
yaks much desired his European
knick-knacks, and begged for them
pertinaciously, but would never take
the smallest thing without leave they
would hesitate if they could not give
a satisfactory answer, but they would
not lie. The have, of course, |
to work like beasts of burden, but the
men behave gently to them every |
body is kind to the children and the
sick are nursed and looked after by
their friends with ready sympathy.
According to the European standard
of ethics the head-hunters at home
compare ia some ways favorably not
only with the more civilized Malays, |
but even, we may think, with some
most ferocious tribe met with by the
explorer was the Things, who are not
only head. hunters, but cannibals, eat
ing the bodies of the enemies whose
headss they take. In most Dayak viii
lagos there are posts set up which
commemorate head-hunting exploits
while others have to do with the yet
more CHASTITY sacrifice of debtslaves.
1t was a relief to meet with a tribe, the
Orange Bukkit, whose partly Malay
descent accounted for head bunting
not being their custom. Nor, indeed,
did they have the Daysk practice
called pomati, the secluding of people,
or prohibiting access to fields or
houses, by setting up some such sign
as a bundle of leaves OH a stick. This
is done in order to get good crops, Or
to shut off evil influences in sickness
or mourning and its often-noticed re-
semblance to the tdpu of Polynesia
gives interest to Mr.. Books careful
description of it. 1t would have been
still better if he had given q picture of
the pomali stick itself London dead
emu, |
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Religious Sentiment.

His words had power because they
accorded with his thoughts and his
thoughts had reality and depth be-
cause they harmonized with the life
he had always lived. 1t was not mere
breath that this preacher uttered
they were the deeds of life, because a
life of good deeds and holy love was
melted into them. Pearls, pure and
rich, had been dissolved into the
precious draught -NdhonieJ Hau-
horne.
Ambitions End.
Why all this toll for trlumphs Of an nour?
What though we wade in wealth or soar in
fame?
Earth's highest station ends In Here he
lies
And dust to dust" concludes her noble,t
song.
Young.
The MYSTERIES OF sorrow, deep and long,
Tina dark enigmas OF permitted wrong
Have all one key.
The strange, sad world is but our Fathers
school
All chances and change His love shall grandly
overrule.
What though to-day
Thou caust not trace at all the hidden
reason
For His strange dealings through the trial
season,
Trust and obey;
In after life and light all shall be plain and
clear.
There is no life so humble that, if it
be true and genuinely human and
obedient to God, it may not hope to
shed some of His light. There is no
life go meagre that the greatest and
wisest of us can afford to despise il.
We cannot know at what moment it
may fash forth with the life of God
Phillips Brooks.
Come, my a my truth, my life;
Such a way, as gives us BREATH
Such a truth, as ends all strife;
Such a life as killeth death.
Come my light, my feast, my strength;
Such a light, as shows a feast;
Such a feast, as mends in length;
Such a strength, as makes his guest.
Come, my JOY, my love, my heart;
Such a JOY as none can move;
Such a love as none can part
Such a heart, as joys in love,
George Herbert.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08

In the arbor, for a long space, the
soft, buzzing, ley summer sounds
were disturbed by Brides sobs; while
outside, with nothing between them
but the thin, dark covered, wooden
partition, sat Amelia, on the ground
among the underwood, her head on
her knees, which were surrounded by
her clasped hands. She had heard it
all, and was thinking 1t over bit by
bit.
What should she do =? The future,
which but an hour ago had seemed so
bright to her as she believed in Lucius
Fitzgerald's love, had suddenly be-
come dimned by mist which looked
eternal. She could not see through
it; 1t was thick as that which gathered
about the summit of her own north
country hills. Still she must try and
find her way through it; and as she
sat there motionless, listening to the
sobs within, and thinking more earn.
estly than she we thought in her
life before, a depth of feeling was
awakened in Amelia's heart for which
no n who knew her only in the'light
comedy of life would have given her
credit. She vas the first to move
very carefully, lest Birdie should hear
and to go slowly to the house. She
met Percy at the door.
"Well, what was up in the arbor?'
Nothing. 1 believe you purposely
sent me on a wild-goose chase. Luz
Gus has gone down toward Raeburn's
farm.
What an invaluable article is stu
pidity in the proper place.
Two hours later the husband and
wife met at dinner. Birdie had one o
her usual bad headaches. Nc one could
have guessed that Amelia had learned
the truth only perhaps Lucius To-
ticed that she was ven more tender
and womanly in her manner than she
had ever been before.
For many days Birdie lay i'll up
stairs in a darkened room. Amelia
never intruded herself unbidden into
the sick girls presence; but a | that
love could think of, and attention
carry out, she gave to Bird e, and
with no demonstrative outbursts. Nor
did she ever tell Lucius that she knew
aught of the past, but helped him
quietly, with soothing tenderness, to
bear the anxiety and irritsbility pre-
duced by BRIDES illness. Amelia had
seen her way through the mists, and
the road along which she had elected
to travel was that of patient sympa-
thy.
AS months passed Oh and tine cica-
tried the wound in Lucius's heart
that destiny had made, was not much
of its healing due to the woman who
loved him well enough to bear silently
and unmurmuringly her share of the
burden with which he was so heavily
weighed?
Birdie Verulsm has never married.
She went abroad with Lady Constantia
for q while on her return she studi-
ously avoided all meetings with Lu-
cius, and pointedly refused to pay
another visit to Abbotscraithie but
she is always on friendly, almost low
ing, terms with Amelia, who scarcely
ever undertakes any scheme of impor-
lance without first consulting Birdie.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Fast Trains on English ard
American Railways.

A critical examination of the speed
of the English railroad trains, writes
q correspondent, does not sustain the
the commonly-accepted notion of
their great velocity, nor prove that
progress in accelerating speed which
was to be looked for IN the country
where the railroad was born and era
died. The famous Flying Dutch
man on the Great Western railroad
makes the run from London to Exc
ter, 1914 miles, in four hours and four
teen minutes. With tour stops, it at
tains a speed of almost ferty-six miles
an hour. A train on the Great North
ern road, the Leeds express" does
better. 1t makes the distance from
Londen to Leeds, 1877 miles, in four
hours-almost forty-seven miles an
hour, with four stops. The train car
rying the Irish mail to Holyhead,
over the London and Northwestern
line, and dubbed years ago 1.-THE
Wild Irishman,' has now sunk into
comparative obscurity with its rate
of q little less than forty miles an
hour. The competition over several
of the great lines to the populous
Scotch cities leads to some fast
schedules.
The morning express on the Great
Northern road makes only four stops
along the line from London to Edin-
burgh, 395 miles, and flies over the
whole distance in nine hours, with an
average rate of almost forty-four miles
an hour and on the Midland line the
night Scotch express runs the AIS
miles to Glasgow with a speed Of forty
and one.half miles an hour. These
are the four swiftest trains in England
and, as will be seen, the Leeds express
with its rate of forty-seven miles an
hour, is the ~fieetest of them all. Three
out of the four trains probably beat the
running time for the same distance ON
any other roads in the W orld. They
are all, however, far outstripped for a
shorter distance by the train on the
Pennsylvania railroad which leaves
Jersey City at 40 p. M. and makes
the run of about lightweight miles TO
Philadelphia 100 minutes, with one
stop, at Trenton. The fifty two and
eight-tenths miles an hour made by
this American train is probably with
out parallel in the schedule time Of
any railroad company on the globe.
1t may be mentioned that the fast
trains of the Pennsylvania and Van
derbilt roads between New York and
Chicago compare well as to time with
the long ruus on the English and
Scotch lines, and more than double
them as to distance. On both the
American and English system of rail-
roads 1t must also be remembered that
for short stretches of straight track,
with good roadbed and favoring
grades, a speed of sixty miles or more
an hour is not very uncommon. The
ordinary time of passenger trains on
the British railroads does not vary
much, If any, from the speed of the
corresponding trains on our steel-rail-
ed lines-about thirty-five miles an
hour for Ell press, and twenty-five for
accommodation trains.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
HOW HAPPY Ii BE.

A little one played among the flowers,
In the blush and bloom of summer ours;
She twined the buds in a garland fair,
And bound them up IN her shining hair.
'Ah nae" said she, "how happy III be
When ten years more have gone over me
And I am a maiden, with youths bright
Flushing my cheek and lighting my brow
A maiden unused in a pleasant room
Where the air was filled with a soft perfume I;
Vases we're near, of antique mold,
Beautiful pictures, rare and old,
And she, of all the lovliness there,
Wa by far tn. lovliest aud most fair.
"Ah me" sighed she, .'how happy IN be
When my hearts true love comes home TO
me;
light of my life, my spirits pride.
/ count the days till thou reach nv side"
A mother bent over a cradle nest,
Where she soothed her babe to his smiling
rest,
''Sleep wei - she murmured soft and low,
And she pressed her kisses on his brow,
80 child sweet child, how happy ri be
II the good God ct thee stay with me
Till later on, life's evening hour,
Thy strength shalt be my strength and
tower"
An aged one sat by the glowing hearth,
Almost ready to leave the earth,
Feeble and frail, the race she had run
Had borne her Hlong to the setting sun,
"Ah mel' sighed she, in an undertone,
allow happy III be when life is donel
When the world fades out with its weary
strife,
And l soar away to a better life"
'ris thus we journey from youth to age,
Longing to turn to another page,
Striving to hasten the years away,
Lighting our hearts with the future ray;
Hoping In earth till its visi 1ns fade,
Wishing and waiting, throue b sun and shade
Turning when earth's last tie is riven,
TO the beautiful rest that remains in heaven.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Fashion.

Fashion.
New flounces are gathered.
Painters grow more b%ouffant.
White MORE fans are in favor.
Spring cheviots are self colored.
Plated puffs make effective tabliers.
Solid jet crowns are on new capotes.
Scotch ginghams are now offered for
sale.
Chenille dotted tuile IS used for bal
dresses.
Gold lace is coming into favor as
trimming.
A tiny silver teapot is the new
watch charm.
Levantine satins are superseding
surah silks.
New floral garniture is made wholly
of beads.
Young ladies use tulle ruches in
preference to lace.
Virgin gold is a pale shade that to
replace old gold.
A border of marabout plumage trims
bridal dresses.
Chenille rushes are stylish trim
mings for nantes.
India foulards are imported for
ladies' in Mourning.
White gauze brocaded with gold il
used for ball dresses.
Mother of pearl satin Is the novelty
for wedding dresses.
Diamonds are set In a row around
the finger in guard rings.
App1iques of velvet or plush on satin
are seen ON opera cloaks.
Genoa point lace is worn plain Oh
the fabric without fulluess.
An interrogation point in diamonds
is a new Partisan brooch.
No wardrobe is complete during
Lent without a evere black dress.
A gold sunfiower is the aesthetic de
sign for breastpins and finger-rings.
Pongee trimmings wrought in lace
patterns are among the late novelties.
A single piece of Russian lace is
made to cover the front of satin dress
skirts.
A short mantle of sealskin completes
Paris dress 8 of brown watered silk.
Natural suntiowers and lilies are
now used by florists to decorate draw
ing rooms.
A garland Of mixed roses is newer
than the corssge bouquet for evening
dresses.
Folding screens for holding eight oil
ten photographs are handsome wher
covered with velvet or plush.
Primary colors and old-fashioneC
shades are announced for spring good
in place of the faded blues and dingy
greens new fashionable.
The Penn's Grove record., 1882-04-08
Clothes Moths.

This name includes several distinct
but similar species of minute moths be-
longing to the family 7Tneide, which,
in their larval state, are very destruc-
tive to wooden goods, fur, hair, and
similar substances. Among them nay
be mentioned the clothes moth (7Eaed
VestidneId), the carpet moth 7ined ta-
petzeNa), the fur moth CT. PeHioneHa),
and the hair moth (7snea erinella).
These tineas have slender bodies and
l~anceOlate, deeply fringed wings that
expand six or eight tenths of an inch.
The antenn@ and palpi are short and
thread-like, and there is a thick orange
or brown tuft on the forehead. The
colOrs range from buff TO drab and
dark gray. The eggs are laid in May
and June Che moth dying immedi-
ately afterward), and hatch out in ff-
teen days. The young worms at once
proceed to work, gnawing the sub
stances within their reach and cover
ing themselves with the fragments,
which they shape into hollows and
line with silk. These rolls are by some
carried on their backs as they move
along, and by others fastened to the
substance they are feeding upon and
they are enlarged from time to time
by additions to the open extremities
and by portions let into the sides,
which are split open for this purpose.
In such ambush the worms carry on
their work of destruction through the
summer; rest in seeming torpor, dur
ing the winter and change to
chrysalids early in the spring. They
transform again in twenty days, and
issue from their shelter as winged
moths, to fly about in the evening till
they are paired and are ready to lay
eggs. Then follows an invasion of
closets, chests and drawers, edges OF
carpets, folds of curtains, and hanging
garments, and the foundation of a
new colony is swiftly laid.
The early days o fJune should herald
vigorous and exterminating warfare
against these subtle pests. Closets,
wardrobes, all receptacles for clothing,
should be emptied and laid open, their
contents thoroughly exposed to light
and air, and well brushed and shaken
before being replaced. In old houses
much infested with moths, all cracks
in floors, wainscots, shelves, or furni-
ture should be brushed over with
spirits OF turpentine. Camphor or to-
bacco should be placed among all gar
ments, furs, plumes, etc, when laid
aside for the summer. To secure
cloth Innings of carriages from the
attacks ofmoths, sponge them on both
sides with a solution OF corrosive sub
Innate of mercury in alcohol, made
just strong enough not to leave a
white mark ON a black feather. Moths
may be killed by fumigating tue article
containing them with tobacco or
sulphur, or by putting it, If practics-
BILE, into an oven heated to about 1862
Fab.