Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-11-29

one. at least left over from last season.
The coat might cost more tl,:-- go go: U;:S coats
and ulsters &C not needed every year: they last
even With growing girls at least two years. and
therefore the money set down for the two gar
mcnts may be put into one, or a part OF It de-
voted TO tine purchase of walking Jacket
which is a necessary part of young lady's
wardrobe. but does not require renewal oitener
than once in three years. What is true Of the
best winter dress Is also true Of the light silk or
grenadinc for best summer wear. Making it at
home reduces nearly half the expense. and
the surplus can. OF course, lie put i'm a finer
Material. richer trimming, or pretty lace wrap
or other garment. Summer c...ziirr.Gs at Sl5
for two might 10 reGuced very materially by the
purc:.-" OF less expensive fabrics than those at
lToEi 10 10 ~ cents per yard, and frcln making
THEM IRON coed patterns instead of buying
READ! male or paying for the making 1t is
never WISE economy. however, to buy cheap cot
tons; TWO dresses OF Scotch Ginghan or one of
sin"iam and one of corded cambria will last two
seasons without showing wear, and ore season
without washing. If old dresses are kent in re-
serve TO save new ones
y wrapper IS one CT those things that is only
needed occasionally. especially BY young girls.
andthcrciOre doesHG rcau. re iredlIpnt renewal.
ana wrappers are 30 easily made that the Young
woman VINO is not willing to make one for her
self ought not t. have any. Fifteen dollars for
underwear is rather lew. unless it is made at
Meme. ana allows little margin for the fiimSv
lace which it is how the fashion with many
young girls to have inserted i'm large quantities
ON their undergarmeGts. This fashion is not
however. one to be commended. II was in the
first instance happy thought of the ready
made clothing houses to insure tine more rapid
deterioration and mora frequent renew al of their
wares 1T appeals also tn the vanity Of the
young. and by some IS considered mark of re-
finement and 6eicacy. when as a rule it is the
opposite. for no class indulge in this species of
extravaganza to the extent of one that is name
rpn of Enir r.,
all se-respecting women Fifteen dollars will
buy three sets of merino underwear and several
complete sets of neat cotton underrar,nentS
handmade and finished with simple hand en-
Droidery. klnd that is better cut and lasts
longer than any others. These will last two
years without being worn out. SO that this pro-
vision is really ample.
Underskirts. hosiery. gloves ard handker-
chiefs are capable of elastic treatment. and the
last three are apt TO be reinforced by frequent
gifts at Christmas and upon birth DAYS. so that
the sums allotted may he made more or less inter-
chan"eabe. OF course nothing is said here in
regard TO JeWelry. as girls seldom purchase that
for themselves-and ought net. Jewelry is not
necessity. and is only valuable when it is as
ISOLATED with friend Il place or an event
But there are two Indispensable articles that
have been omitted. and these are bOnncts ard
shoes. The cost OF both might be put down at
an average of S25. which would leave but a
margin OF $'l5 for cuffs. collars. vaselnc cara
lneis. postage. cologne. society dues. (cvcry
Girl now belongs to q society. car fare and the
like 1t will be seen. therefore. that while s.
per week. or $50 per year is enough. and can
be made ample b. industry and ccGnOmy it does
not admit OF eXtravaGant or wasteful eXpendi-
tEre. and any small margin that can be made in
gwen directions will find useful employment in
others.
FULL EVENING DRESS
The styles for elegant evening dresses this
season are very rich and have an air of solidity.
even when in light cOors. Thin materials are
only used by young girls. and even these spar
ingly and in conjunction with silk. satin. or
brocade. The Majority of the fabrics used are
solid. OttomOn silk or satin being the newest
and the trimming is lace and feathers and Jew
els. the latter usei as clasps buttons SPRAYS.
buckles and the like and iInparting a marliiti-
cent effect to an elaborate costume Nothing
nher can be imagined. for example than an
ottoman satin dress in the Shade known as
topaz pink. trimmed with real Russian or Irish
point. and bands of soft ostrich feathers with
diamond catching the light with every move
iment OF the body. Cream and water green are
made up i'll the same way: or the front of the
skirt will show q plain breadth Of lowered vel
vet edged with a thick ruche of the satin and q
satin panier draped dia@onally upon ore side
Onlv and bordered with lace laid upright On the
satin above the feathers.
Beaded elnbrOlGeritS are not at all so indS-
crlminatey worn as last season. The tendency
Is towards the massing of certain distinctive
effects. Artificial flowers have almost disap-
peared as ornaments, and when used they are
more frequently put III single into the holloys
OF thick plating or ruchng round the edge
OF train. across the front Ct a skirt or upon a
lone horse panier. as the one-sdcd paniers are
somewhat cOarsely called by irreyerent girls OF
siangy tendencies. Pale. crushed roses and
double white chTysanthemums are the preferred
howers. Natural flowers are almost universally
USED Tor corSage bOuGuets-a charming fashion
and one that ought to be permanent-but when
artificial flowers are used at all it is clustered
together and placed high, nearly upon the
shoulder. and almost touching the throat at the
left Of the bodice
" lien beaded trimmings are used at all they
form the entire characterization. The front of
the skirt will be q mass of beaded embroidery,
and paniers or panels bodice and sleeves will
be trimmed with network of white let and
pearls and fringe. The network of beads over
silk or satin bodice is one of the most etrec-
tive novelties of the season. 1t is used mainly
in black and white. the former made of small
cut jet, the latter of white Jet and pearls The
sleeves are usually to the elbow. and composed
OF the beaded network only and fringe as
finish over the elbow. But upon one of
the Langtry nights at Wallacks occasions
distinguished for such dress as we have
been accustomed heretofore to see
only at the opera, a beautiful amber dress was
displayed. the front covered with amber bead
embroidery shaded with brown and with brown
velvet leaves. outlined and veined with amber
silk. The bodice was of brown velvet pointed
at the back, the amber satin skirt gathered to
1t. The sleeves were a net work of amber beads
with brown glittering points. and there was a
dog collar over the velvet at the throat to
match. In box on that same evening q Young
lady wore a dress of cream nuns yelling,
trimmed with quantities of cream lace and
feathers, which formed tichu ard outlined the
draped raners upon the skirt. Her entire cos
tune was white. her bouquet being of white
crushed roses. iier fan OF feathers matching her
dress. The chaperone. presumably her mother,
Termed magnificent contrast to this beautiful
simplicity. Her gown was OF salmon brocade
continued with salmon cUlored satin covered
with one deep rich fiounce of point lace The
bodice was cut square and trimmed with lace:
tine sleeves half long, and the fan was of red
feathers with border OF lace: corsare bououet
OF red hot house roses. Such elaborate dress at
the theater could only be explained. by the sun
position of immediate adjournment to a
cerenoniOus reception; but there has
been decided attempt this winter
to Introduce the English. methods
OF no bonnets and a more evening" style of
dress at the theater with as vet not very fortu-
nate results. The effort may lead to a greater
degree OF latitude. to the possibility of a lady
appearing without bonnet especially i'm a
box, without encOuntering glasses from
every part of the house or heinz spt down &C