The Republican journal., 1882-10-19
Three Days IN Havana.
BY CHARLES 4. PILSRTKH.

SerS, ana nUlllct gOOd-UNeS were eN-
changed as people rushed up and down
the stage plank. In a few moments the
stern OF onr ship swung out into the tur-
bid stream, and the light Of my friend
Nanes cigar is ali that enables me to
distinguish his whereabouts through the
ensuing gloom. Even that soon fades
out, the wharf line grows blurred and in
distinct, and the three quaint towers Of
he old cathedral are the only landmarks
distinguishable. Now with the engine
throbbing below, its tremors felt through
out the ship, and the propeller churning
the muddy waters of the Mississippi. we
glide swiftly down river, and the lights
OF the city are lost in the distance Fare
we'll, Crescent City-a long farewell
Next morning we are at the mouth of
the Mississippi, riding at anchor in dense
fog. and surrounded by steamers and sail
ing craft, like ourselves, outward bound.
Oul captain repOrtsa very low barometer,
a heavy swell outside, and the prospects
tOr continuing our voyage not at all favor
able. soon the rain descendS in torrents
accompanied by intensely vivid flashes VI
lightning, and thunder clapS, which are
aidrmlngly near and StartlinglN load. At
times the lightning impaTts 4 rose tint to
the fast falling rain drops, producing a
beautiful and novel effect. The fog lift
ing about noon, We get under way and
cross the bar The weather is still threat
ening. but at first the sea was not as
heavy as we had feared. 1t grows rough
er and rougheT however, as we proceed
and the CUBA rolls and plunges now her
bow points skyward, and then her stern.
her timbGrs creaking and groaning with
the strain. This is Neptune's opportun-
ity. He comes and taps his victims ON
the shoulder, and they turn pale as they
rise and follow him to the rail. They are
still paler when they return to their
seats, and have apparently lost all in
tereSt IN human affairs. Even dinner
has no charms for them. and though
there are sixty names on the passenger
list, the writer and the purseT are all
shat take seats at the long table but We
discuss the bill Of fare from soup to black
coffee, and conclude the rcpast with 4 eli
gar on deck
The next morning was fine and the sea
smoother The following day was also
pleasant, and in the morning we sight d
bark bound to Havana the first sail visi-
Die since crossing the bar Just before
noon a supposed raft was seen, and the
steamer left ner course only to discover
that it was nothing more than a drifting
log. Vt 9.35 p. NJ. we made Moro Light,
aud as 10 vessels are permitted to enter
the port of Havana between sunset and
sunrise. we were compelled to liz on the
harDor All night But next morning. be-
fore SIN O'Clock, the Cuba steamed in un-
der the guns Of Moro Castle, and came TO
an anchor abreast the city Of Havana
TO attempt to describe Havana, its
harbor, its inhabitants, its buildings. and
its manners and customs, after visit Of
only three days, would be unWise, to say
the least. After all, such descriptions
must fall fag short Of the reality. / had
read dozens Of books, letters and maya
zine articles on Havana and Cuba, but
when ! saw for myself, | found SO much
that was new and novel it seemed as
though the half had not been told So,
instead OF ambitious attempts at de
scription, | will cOnfine my narrative
to personal experiences The first move.
Of course, was to get on shore, and as the
ship Was surrounded by little row boats
with awnings over them-sea cabs they
might we'll he called that was an easy
matter. 50 we We're roWed to a landing
in rear Of the custom-house and when a
clerk had taken down our names, ages,
etc, our party was allowed to pass into
the street. Had we intended to remain
any time we should have had to procure
permit to ito 50. We secured rooms at
the Hotel de Santa Isabel. For a visitor
this hotel is admirably located. and it is.
moreover, acurioslty of itself The build
ING was tormerlythc palace, or residence,
Of wealthy Cuban widow, who married
Il former Governor General, and went to
Spain to live It is built of stone, With
massive walls, and encloses a court
in which is a fountain composed OF
a series of basins, filled with fish and
| plants, and surmounted by lite-siz fig
ure OF Il Spanish water carrier, from
whose lar the water runs down into the
upper basin, which overtlows into the
next, and SO on until the last and largest
is reached, and in which gold and silver
| fish disport themselves. The court is
paved with marble in blue and white
| squares. The principle staircase is OF
| polished white marble, the walls are OF
the same material, and the floors tiled
| The dining room on the second floor has
! long windows reaching to the floor, and
a lofty trescoed ceiling. Just opposite is
the Plaza ID Armas-where fine band
| plays every evening and the resdenC(
Of the Governor General In rear Of the
! hotel is the Sale, or Change of Havana
and the boat landing.
After a short stroll i'll the vicinity VIC
! returned to the hotel and sat down t,
| breakfast at 9 A. NJ. There was a great
variety on the table, including many
kinds Of fish and fruits not seen out O
the tropics, and the coffee was worthy o
New Orleans. Cigars followed the mea
OF course, fer one must smoke in Havana
if anywhere, and then our plans for sight
seeing were discussed An American
resident of Havana, who had kindly vol
unteered his services, remarked thai
there was to be a bull fight that after
noon and that through an acquaintance
he could place a box at our disposal
"a bull fight, by ioyew said one ave
must not miss that exclaimed another
And we did not, although the day was
Sunday. But ones morals are apt to bt
corrupted when far away from home ano
in strange land and then, it is not
every day one has the opportunity q
Witnessing a bull fight. Indeed, oul
worthy captain had told us we should be
so disgusted as to never want to see
another performance Of the kind
About nalf-past four in the afternoon
an early dinner having been ordered ant
partaken Of three vetturas, holding {
party of seven 4merica,a0s, left the Santf
Isabel and dashed down the narrow
street in the direction of the Amphithea
TIRE, some distance outside the city walls
Our jehus INDUCED in a race, at some
risk to our necks we thought, as the
I light vehicles swayed from side to side
| joted over loose stones and plunged int
ruts and holes. But we all arrived safe
| ly at our destination. Before the from
OF the building in which the bull fgh
was to take place, mounted men in uni