New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-10-18
CHIHUAHUA.


TUERrOF-R1CH RESOURCES AND ktINoOs lAAho
PICTURESQUE PHASES OF LIFE IN TYPICAL
MEXICAN CITY.
,rpov Az OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRIBUNEl
CHIHUAHUA, Mexico, Sept 13.-By the time
,h letter reaches you the Mexican Central Railroad will
,,rdopbtedy have arrived at the Chubisear River on
bich this city situated Yesterday the ends OF the
rails were only six miles away The shrek OF the
locomotive can almost be heard here and IT has become
fayorite pasme with the Mexican cdbalteros to rde
mn and watch the work Of trackbudng and then spur
their into wild with the construction tra'
washouts have retarded progress Of the work some
whats but only obstacle at present is lack OF prdge
material and this will probably be met by er1Dong
over" the arroyds. Then run of eight or ten hours
from Fl Paso will succeed the wearisome journey OF
three days and nights in numbering diligence drawn
nv eight or ten mules, the leaders harnessed -FOUR
abreast; and the state OF Chihuahua, with Its reh
mines broad grazing grounds, its agricultural inter
ests and its Spanish civilization Of 800 years duraoh
will be formally opened TO the outside world You nave
probably received Don Zubirans exubernnt announce
ment of the Fcsta which viii celebrate both the arrV
of the Ferroodrrii and the anniversary Of Mexican
pendence on the 10th, and which is to continue io S"
DAYS with all the pomp OF PROFESSIONS oraIohS ~
bull fights II the necessary permission Tor tne s'
obtained 1t will be great event in Chihuahua HIS
tory for few of her 10000 inhabitants have ever seen
locomotive and stiu fewer have ever ridden on inc
cars - ,
This city stands on the southern bank of the Chubisear
tains at the south When the stream Is 100 hgh Vop
tor1ed communication with the north is suspended ana
II heavy rains should on this might happen AT 'o
approaching Fiesta, in which case Nisitors Nour NC
hopelesy stranded inst across the river from the Guy
As in all Spanish and Mexican towns the central point
the plaza beautiful little garden with howers arDos
and shaded walks surrounded by broad promenade
In the centre is great stone fountain Wh'ner ."o
swarthy Mexican come in true Moorish iasihoh
in the early morning. filling their earthen oHds
shaped like Egyptian urns, carry them away giceIuy
poised on their heads On the west OF the plaza Is
the ancient church. whose architecture shows most
strongly Moorish influences. in the quaint mnaret-
like believers thanking the facade and in the dome at
the rear above the transept This church was built from
the proceeds of a tax levied the yield of the old
Spanish mines of Santa Eulaia some fifty miles east or
the city, which enriched their original owners, contrib
uted largely the growth of this city and are now being
less successfully worked by Eastern capitalists The
church tax was twelve and half cents on every elght
dollars worth Of silver from the mines The building
was begun in 1887 completed in l741 and Its cost was
$3.50 600 so that the yield the mines for these four
years was forty-one millions of dollars. a primitive
and wasteful system OF smelling was employed ana
there are now thousands of tons of Stag scattered about
the outskirts OF the city said 10 contain fifteen ounces 10
the ton of silver and which has recently been acquired
by an American and is TO be revoked The church is
built OF lgh-cOored limestone much used in the pub
lie buildings and larger private residences throughout
the eity On the pinnacle Of the facade is poised an
INV
Apostles sculptured in stone Within the heavy oak
and iron folding doors the vast gloomy interior presents
htll especial interest Save the massive carved pillars
along the sides and few oddly cuInbrous Oaken
benches.
STREET AND MARKET SCENES.
Opposite the church is the municipal building, with
M broad Moorish porch where Don Zubran sits in state
and where unfortunate prisoners who have succumbed
to teqitiIa or agu1rdiente temporarily confined
little below Government mint the tower OF which
If which uripSt
imprisoned at the last revolution, who aterward
shot Just the street The barracks for the soiery
are close at hand There in the city sabout 25Oc
Federal and state troops. Seen in their barracks
devotng themselves to petty gambling, in soied white
undress uniforms their appearance is singulary unre-
possessing But on parade they neat, sodiery and
fairly well disciplined and they have proved themselves
better Indian fighters than United States troops.
witnessed inspection Of the llth Cavalry the other
afternoon. The white shakoes. dark blue
uniforms with stripes and abundant chevrOns and top
boots How they manage TO look so well on the
wYetched pittance allowed them, is a mystery. Inc
Federal troops receive little more than three bits -
37l0 centsa day, and much is kept back for uni
forms rations and by dishonest superors that they
actually get money only cents day, while the State
troops are paid the munifcent Of 379 cents day
but expected from this to furnish their mess and
uniforms.
The most interesting Of all the public buildings in the
early morning is the market-place, large courtyard
surrounds it, Standing on the outside sees burr0s
coming from every quarter laden each side with odd
wicker crates containing cheeses splashed
with mud, or Oilds flied with milk. On the lTmp OF
each burro always perched at least one longlegged
Mexican, fully able far as size goes 10 carry the
little beast himself Within the market three or
four scores OF chaering and gesticuatng hucksters
squang behind straw mats which are arranged with
scrupulous regularity tiny piles Of vegetables fruit
grain and ptOR nuts. The customers, who call upon
the SAINTS rebuke the greed OF Jose or Ranar In de-
handing such price for onion make their purchases
with much hagging and in the most microscopic guam
titles It is better than any farce TO watch the various
bits Of by-pay while the men, huddled under striped
serapes peering out suy under their svered and
gaudiy decorated sombrerOs, the leathery women
putting yellow cigarettes they cook various messes IN
little earthen vessels set in stone re-paces, with the
piles brghteoored fruit and vegetables and the gray
background of the adobe walls form unique and thor
0ughy characteristic scene.
In the streets leading from the plaza the sunlight
Is reflected with dazzling intensity from the light lime
stone and whitewashed adobe of which the business
blocks the better class of private residences
structed over the doors carved the of
the owners, and the windows guarded by gded iron
bars or lattice work through which evening the Mex
lean lover pays homage his adored senora Down in
the bend and the outskirts Of the city
clustered the low mud novels of the aboring classes,
who cling most tenaciOusly TO their old dress and
customs.
MEXICAN SOCIAL CUSTOMS.
From noon until 8 all Chihuahua sleeps. The stores
are closed business is practically suspended and every
one Yields TO the soothing influence OF the sesa But as
the shadows lengthen the Alameda becomes filled with
carriages There are lines of open barOuches containing
darkeyed senoritss, bare-headed. after the Spanish
fashion; family carriages drawn by fat mules, with
eoaehmen In short Jackets and wide hats; and caba
leros mounted prancing steeds with sprnkling of
foppish young officers, especially if parade is In pro-
gress. There snguarly beautiful drives TO the