New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-12-13
YULE.TIDE FASHIONS.
,EwELs. PLATE AND BIJoUTRY.

ORNAMENTAL NVODc.
Those who have long been accustomed to
dead and surfaces and uniformity in color
scarcely realize the artistic advantage Of change in
metal Absence Of bodycoo has been the greatest de-
feet in modern workings Of gold silver, copper. until
ecarcely longer than decade ago. The cold white or
silver chilled with it's sameness but now any article
from the simplest object for table use to the most
elaborate and magnificent for the toilet, may be had
IN natural and artistic glowing nts coored by
alloys. The charming floral designs for the issh
fOnable lace pins OF the summer arc replaced ny
Others, less delicate and graceful but more ap
proprate, as aecompaniments TO the ncn' warm
hues fashion orders for this season outrvains the
ancents. modern designers and workers III metal pro-
duce wonderful lace.pin wrought by chemical pro-
cesses into the bieike shades OF color, In the
shape huge SPIDERS crabs the graceful eel arantuas
and small crocodes all of the livelest imaginable de-
,eripop Platina gold and silver eOored by alloys are
used In the manufacture Of these works OF natural ART
The result of examination is prediction that the TASTE
natural history viii gradually lead to cyclop@ia
in which the pensve sloth the pale-eyed oyster the
bowling ryascutcus and the monkey trloe generaiIy
may appear IN the splendor of oxdlzed silver ana gQa
with lew eIled eyes and CLEAN here and there OF Clo
NATURAL HISTORY
Ar present the fashionable taste ruins to Owls III inc
hollow Of silver crescent five owls OF graduated
size are perched with wde soieDn eyes, the punsge
exauisely shaded and tinted in duh oxdized colors
A houe I'm natural coors also holds i've Owls hat are
naa.a and worked An owls head of large size with
cleaning eyes lie tinted In bright metallic coiors.
A bright silver crescent holds IN the mono"
a pair of owls tinted In dlnerent shaues
~ red. brown and gray 0fher lacepins are IN the
hne Of large ducks head and neck showing elaborate
d,onorsd work exauisitey shaded IN natural eoors
small apple equally elaborate Is impaled by the PIN
passing through it, and pair of oxidized silver pncers
holds brilliant dead butterfly yth dropping wings and
dronpnc legs Huge gray oxidized silver spiders are
of size tinted with DARK
and metallic blue alloys the outspread wings punctnred
by the long pin Several wonderfully worked heads OF
mug dogs are of different nationality and amiabi-
ity expression, having ruby eyes charming iaoe
min takes shape OF curving branch hooDg large
pansy enamelled gold in purple blue Some forget
menots are enamelled also gold, the leaves exqui-
sitely vened IN pale green gold.
silver dog collars revived These are intended TO
no worn outside the collar OF the dress, claspng 1t
closely OF these are so arranged as to be sepa-
rated int a pair of bracelets. The designs are
in the scales and chain mail seen IN
armor fastened with gadlings sucn 'as
are seen on steel gaunuets. Other shapes are silver
bars finished at each end by silver ball, and again IN
silver beads and in medieval styles. In newest
fashion come costly garter clasps in great variety
pair of these clasps, quite elegant enough for brace
let are of engraved silver, set with large ex-
ouisitey enameed psnsy in low relief fastened on oue
silk elastic in OF blue satin ribbon Another more
costly hax hammered silver surface holding smiling
face of the Man in the Moon finely chased These are
placed on scarlet elastic and satin bows Another set
of oxidzed silver shows finely carved and chased Owls
heads with golden eyes, fastened on blue elastic SATIN
ribbon ana plush bows. Mourning carriers are made OF
black silk easc plain silver clasps set in TUFTS OF
black chenie and ribbon. similar pair are set with
antique silver COINS
TABLEWARE.
In table silver and gold the last shadow of Puritan
simplicity has departed. Some Of the magnificent pieces
o Mate battle description The Merovngians and Anglo
fIluctr ated IN
headed and igee and appropriate work of the design
ana again in the Celtic hammered work The designs
aud workmanship rich in detail. yet light ana e1
ouistely elaborate in the manipulation OF the dEerent
metals of old silver and copper. very large superb
puncb-bowl of silver, goldined. is specimen OF mar
velous work; thick grapevine Of natural colors Is
coied carelessly about the brm; large branches OF
grapes OF oxidzed silver hang, forming the hahues'
from leaves of FURNISHED gold here and there tinted with
fecks OF autumn's vivid colorDg; the lade OF satin
finished silver goldlined, has long curved handle
wound about by a delicate vine OF gold and occasional
small leaves gold finished by bunch OF gold grapes
laid in mezzoreevo at the end from carved gold lear
large plate for fruit, of satnbnshed gcidbas broad
fat edge of gold; the centre is rreguary hammered
with black oxidzed work laid half around on the wide
EDGE Ia sunfoger of natural size, the finely worked
golden petals flexible, and the stamehs a
reproduction of nature in ren brown ana
black shaded golc, the leaves brown ana
,nred in many colored alloys. large oxdized silver
pir,her shows wonderful elaboration the thick handle
;s formed i'm closest resemblance 10 an octopus arm
coiled half around midway tadpoe IN alto relieve Is
perched. aud large lizard having accomplished Tue
frip inward looks the brim the body OF the
pitcher initiates in irregular dashes and waves Oh
black oxidized, in which sea monsters disport'
Another pitcher Of the character but oil different
shape has handle formed in alto relieve OF large
dragons hdeous head bent over the edge the long DOdy
finishes at the bottom with huge claws and tan; the
body of the pitcher smoo OXidzed silver Is covered
with wayes curling FOAM spray tossed by large fab of
the most elaborate workmanship These pitchers are
purely Japanese in character.
ORIENTAL DESIGNS.
Alarge square tray ofJapanese design In SILVER
holds a dozen tiny afer-dnner cofeecups In the shape
of mugs and sauoers each handle is different from the
Others consisting OF a twig, flower, bunoh
of leaves, The decoration in nielo also
varying in each cup. The god-ilhed
bowl has similar quaint decoration, with
an ornamened stem and clusters of berries laid about
the edge The lid the co1eepot has on top the Japan
ese dog "Jos"in alto relieve, quite free and winged
dragon forms the handler the decoration Is OF cranes
trees and bamboo stalks in finest black lines and etch
ings Another sci OF coffee pots OF japanese hammered
design has q decorated alto rehevo Dfahcn III proMn
alloy Iintinr froG which hang barberres in clusters
snS S, sone leaves; on the other side
bird IN bronze cOors, lizard and neg superb tfay
exausitely decorated with soft elimmer OF pearl opal
and nher nts on the satin finished gold surface. show
ing dragon fies butterflies lowering over the whle
iesyed mics bend over the bank The two go6lcs and
pitcher in more OF %
seems contest of birds in the trees OF paest green gO
the pale white wild roses; cluster OF corn
CLEANS beneath tue clouds OF delicate amber anu
silver snowy white, has salver with mir or,sui ace
andy clusters Of flowers Of frosted anu rop
silver separated from the base by gold bands
sn1~ psrf MATHEMATICIAN silver with antique deco
ratons gold and siyer the gobists correspond WIN
fower-vase hammered oxidized silver; rose 6ranen
tinted brown trails about the body OF the vase IN alto