The Portland daily press., 1882-03-03
[Harper's Bazar,
New York Fashions.

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alternating with a satin stripe of the same
width in contrasting colors. These are to
make the entire costume, or else only the polka
basque, with the plested founces of lower
skirt. Very small checks of black with white
make up stripe that alternates with deep
green satin, or else with a pale lichen green
stripe; cream and brown checked stripes are
associated with dark garnet stripes and there
are blues that look green, with greens that
seem blue, combined with cardinal stripes
The moire striped silks are also in similar con-
trasts, and these are largely imported in the
colors that have found such favor during the
Winter, viz, black moire striped with dark
cardinal, or else with white. There is no bet
ter way of Frightening up black dress of
moire or of satin than by using these red stripes
give light and summary look to black dresses,
as well as being very effective for the entire
dress. A simple toilette for light mourning,
and suitable for dress occasions, has the black
and white stripes made up in an antique bod
ice, with demi-trained skirt. The corsage is
cut out square in the neck, and has fiat iabot
of lace on the sides, with high wired collar
behind, edged with black and white faceted
beads The waist is round behind, and sharp
ly pointed in front, with velvet ribbon begin
ming in the seams under the arms, outlining
the point and tied with bow and short ends.
There is panier scarf across the front and
sides that ends in large bow just beneath the
middle seam of the back, and this gives full
ness to the hips. The front breadths are
opened in squares at the foot, and black velvet
is placed beneath the opening, while pleating
of the velvet, and another of the silk, extend
around the entire skirt. The sleeves reach to
the elbow, and are finished with an upturned
cuff of velvet, and a lace frill falling toward
the hands The fullness of the back is massed
in pleats that touch in the middle at the belt.
Chine silks with shaded figures that look
like hand painting are among the new impor-
tations. These come in the pretty designs worn
o generation ago, showing rose-buds, other
small flowers, and much foliage OF natural
hues strewp on pale gray, brown, cream, or
buff grounds. There are also white chine
grounds for full evening dress with lovely eg-
lantine patterns showing wild roses fully
blown and just budding. Chine stripes made
up of dashes of Illuminated colors have sober
hued reseda stripes between them, or beige
brown, drab, very dark green, or cardinal.
Other chine stripes represent clouds, aud the
damask chimes have spots, dots and blocks OF
color; still others represent watered effects In
chine colors, with satin stripes between, and
there are chine autumn leaves OF most exquis-
ite and varied shading.
Plain coIored silks and duchesse satns are
shown for entire suits or parts Of suits in all
the new and delicate colors. Whether faille or
satin be used, the fabric offered is soft and
yielding, and is more nearly what it processes
TO be than such stuffS have been for several
years past. The success of fine woollen goods
and the loss of faith in silks have compelled
manufacturers to make pure silks, and guaran-
tee their wear. The striped Louisines, Surahs,
and foulards have already been described.
Brocades are shown again; these have new de-
signs that resemble lace, and the sunf1ower
patterns are largely repeated for trimmings
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is made up of the plain satin, stripes, Surahs,
etc.
The new raw silks for dresses please aesthetic
tastes, as they are of quantity beautiful colors
oddly blended in vague, indistinct patterns,
and the fabric is soft, light, and semi-transpar-
ent. The foundation of this new stuff is fine
wool like that Of nuns cloth, and the figures
are put on in raw silk, leaving rough, irreg-
ular surface that entirely conceals the wool.
StaiDed-glass designs, bits copied from illu-
minated missals, and the most decorative fam
cies appear in tkese, combining pale blue with |
green, lichen with rose, pink with brown, gray |
with rose, etc.
The fancy in the newest wool goods is to |
have them platnaetiS, that is, to appear to be |
hand embroidered, though the polka dots, !
moons, stars, blocks and parallelograms strewn |
upon them without stint are brocaded by ma |
chine, and the embroidery on the selyedges for |
trimming is all done by machinery. These fig-
ures are done on nuns yelling and in contrast |
ing colors, such as red On blue, sky blue on |
dark blue, salmon on bronze, white on blue
salmon oD navy blue, and white on white.
There are also Cheviots plAnaettS, the grounds
being of grave colors with gay figures. The |
varieties of nuns yelling are great; thus there
are brocaded nuns cloth of new colors; en-
broidered nuns yelling in lichen, beige, cleo
trc blue, and brown shades, with open-work
on both edges Of different widths for trimming;
nuns yelling with lace-like designs all over it,
and another very elegant kind with velvet pol
ka dots strewn upon it; new imitation Of We
netian lace forms the pretty designs of en-
broidery on the selvedges of black and colored
yelling, while brocaded satin figures are en-
tirely confined to black yelling; great raised
roses with plush-like pile are seen on other
varieties, and the old-fashioned Breton laces
are copied in white embroidery on this favor
ite wool goods. The Cheviots of plain grounds,
or with dashes or checks, are mixed colors, il
luminations, and mustard yellows strewn with
Cayenne-pepper red. Twills of plain colors
are largely imported, and many of these have
embroidered selvedges The new Melbourne
cloths are plain surfaces like smooth bunting,
and there are many buntings, albatross fabrics,
and Virginie cloths that are offered under the
popular name of nuns veiling-a name which
really belongs to the transparent all-wool fab
ric known by it's inch-wide selvedges Satin
SoEen is a wool goods with brilliant, satin-like
lustre New dc beges are shown in the illumi-
mated mixtures that are now liked in Cheviots,
and in plain colors also, such as lichen green,
metallic blues, brown, etc.
plush or velvet on thin armure grounds are the
novelties in grenadines. Great roses, leaves,
and arabesques like those of Spanish lace are
made entirely of plush, or else these figures
are of lace-like meshe5 with thick edges, on
the armure grenadine. The dots are large
moons of satin brocade, or of velvet, or plush
of deep pile, and there are blocks and rings in
terlinked of the same weaving.
Ecru batistes are wrought on each edge to re-
present church lace and Venetian embroider-
les. These will make charming Summer
dresses and together with dress OF black
nuns yelling similarly embroidered will be
found in fashionable outfits for the Summer.
They will be made in simple styles with point
with bouffant drapery around the hips and be-
hind What is called linen gingham is an ex-
cellent durable fabric, another revival from
the goods of the last generation. 1t comes
principally in blue and pink shades, and may
be had plan, OF else with lace-like pattern in
white threads all over it. Percales have also
white designs, like those Of old Honiton lace.