The Portland daily press., 1882-03-09
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

D~SA
rolled all along the edge to give coronet effect.
The wide front of these bonnets is further en-
Iarged by their strings being set 50 far back
that the crown is tied fiat against tho head,
and the brim thrown forward and outward.
Fine straw is the material for such bonnets in
preference to chip, which is only found in black
bonnets and in hats Very few pure white
straws are seen, the preference being given to
ecru and Manila braids, Tascans, Milan straws
that are made in England, and the fine Eng
lish split straws that are as light in weight as
chips. Dark straws of the strong Milan brads
will be chosen to match costumes, and are
shown in all the shapes in dark green, garnet,
olive, brown, etc. The small capotes with cor
onet front or with the brim rolled upward all
around will be the first Spring bonnets worn in
city streets, especially in dark colors corre-
spending with the Dress but the great pokes
and picturesque round hats will be chosen for
midsummer at the watering-places and country
resorts. The rough straws for travelling and
general wear are made of porcupine braid of
smoother quality than that introduced last
year, and with a1ustre like satin; these will be
most used in dark colors, especially red, blue
or green. For garden hats are Leghorp flats.
with pleated brims edged with straw pleating
that is embroidered in colors. Manila hats
have colored facings of Belgian straw inside
the brim, thus bringing becoming color next
the face, and doing away with the necessity
for lining. Other hats of very large Gains
borough shape have a straw ruche on the
edge of the brim. OF all the large shapes the
poke with a rolled front meets with most favor
from dealers; when trimmed with great clus-
ter Of feathers directly on top, it recalls pre-
bOnnptS n a Euudrpd oft
which it is modelled.
Faille, feathers, and the new ecru laees are
trimmings on Paris bonnets The faille that is
about to take the place of satin has very small
reps, finer than those of gros grain, and has a
sheen like satin it is very soft and pliable, and
forms folds and drapery on the outside of the
bonnet; but il is most used as a plain smooth
facing inside the wide brim, with tiny piping
folds on the edge while faille ribbon to match
the lining is twisted in one or two rows outside
the crown, and forms strings that begin almost
in the middle Of the back. This failie ribbon
is three or four inches wide, and is twisted
loosely and most careessly across the bonnet
The only other trimming then needed is a clus-
ter OF short feather tips on top, nodding for
ward or else great panache with an aigrette
in its centre is put quite high on the left side
of the crown, or two half-long plumes take the
place of this panache, and cover the entire left
side of the bonnet. Very few bows are made
of the ribbon, though occasionally one with
very long loops is put quite far back on the
crown, or else high up on the right side. There
is also great deal of latitude in the use of
feathers, as they sometimes form ruche or
wreath upon the whole brim, and have long
plume-like end falling in the middle Of the
back; such feathers are very thick; indeed,
most fine plumes are now doubled along the
quill, and represent from two to six tints, eth
er two contrasting shades, such as Manila with
green, or else they are graduated from cream
to deep yellow, or perhaps one side of the quill
shows pale blue, olive, and pink, while the
other side is tan, cardinal and deeper crimson.
The new Manila laces are used to relieve the
plainness of smooth faille Innings, and to trim
the outside as we'll. These are the linen twine
laces described by Madame Raymond, and are
used in their natural unbleached hues of ecrR,
tan, and gray. They cover the facing by be-
ing gathered on their straight edge far back in
the brim, thus bringing the scalloped edge to
the front, or else this arrangement is reversed
outside the brim. These laces come in guipure
designs, and there are also Spanish and guipure
silk laces in these colors, and in red, blue,
green, etc., used for similar purposes Some
times the soft silk laces are put in ruches OF
two gathered frills inside the brim, especially
of Gainsborough shapes, and there are also
many pleatings of lace used. Dark velvet lin
ings of dull green, blue, dark red or brown are
so generally becoming that they will not bo
abandoned for the newer faille. There are al
so few shirred satin and shell-like ruches Of
velvet inside brim. but the greater number
have the smooth Innings of faille, with lace.
Among fancy feathers are large bows made OF
partridge plumes and OF pheaSants' breasts;
these are put on somewhat in Alsacian effects,
as are the broad folds Of faille. Crinkled Grape,
both thick and transparent, and grapes with
moire markings, are used for trimming some
bonnets and for making others. The transpar-
ent grapes are put on the frame quite smooth
over faille or satin. A great deal Of "piece
Lace is imported in the Manila shades, but in
the Oriental and Breton designs.
Flowers are very largely imported by the
dealers, and they prophesy that midsummer
I.kaf afrrrsl ka 1.1a .of.
bonnets thus far shown have few flowers upon
them, but there are small capotes with q
wreath of crushed roses (salmon pink in tint)
on the front, with lace dropping over them. or
else nasturtiums are grouped in the same way,
or beaded leaves are on one side, and sometimes
single rose with green leaves is placed on one
of the faille strings Another pretty floral fan
cy is crown formed of rows of tiny rosebuds
alternating with rows of pearl beads, or else
ferget-me-nots with white crystal and silver
beads. A great many jet and colored beads
will be used again. The jet crowns are solid
patterns of the finest round beads, or very
small bugles in close patterns of waves, circles,
blocks or leaves others are OF faceted beads
mixed With chenille in embroidery patterns on
net, and in Spanish lace designs A front
piece wrought to match comes with these, and
a great many have beaded laces falling over
the brim on the hair. Gilt and straw beads
are also prettily wrought into similar pieces,
and there are pearl crowns and fronts OF beaE-
tiful designs. Drop bead trimming for coro-
nets will be much used, and this is shown for
mourning bonnets in dull black pearl beads
mounted on black crepe lisse. Feathers and
leaves of green and sold shaded beads make
handsome ornaments; other ornaments have
silver iligree-work mixed with pear-shaped
pearls. New faceted jet ornaments are shaped
like lilies Maltese crosses, crescents, cornuco-
pias and swans. Long pins have jet heads
shaped as o heart or diamond, or else they are
oval or hexagonal. Copper-colored gilt and
silver ornaments are shown as pins, with a star
head, or an arrow, or heart with lapis-laZu-
Ii stone in the centre, or else they take the
shape of dragon-hies or beetleS or they resem-
BILE great buttons of the smooth copper color.
For edging the brims of bonnets are beads OF
all colors and of varied shapes, square like
blocks diamond-shaped, round, oval, smooth
or faceted and these may be had in silver gray,
blue, copper, Manila shades, gold,. pearl, jet
etc.
NEw MANTLEs
The new mantles for spring are small and
short, and are made Of rich cloths in which
gilt and silver threads are introduced. Most OF
the new shapes have square sleeve-llke pieces
introduced, and all cover the arms well. One
pretty design has two basque-like pieces low on
the sides, one of which passes over the
arms as sleeve, and tapers to point
in the middle of the back, where
great bow of wide moire or faille ribbon com
petes it. Such wraps are styhshly made OF
Manufactured camel's-hair, with dark brown
marabout ruches for trimming, and a dark
brown faille bow behind. Cheviot cloth jack
cts are closely fitted and are made to outline
the new pointed corsages to which basques are
attached-sometimes one basque only, but Of
gives the full effect across the hips, and allows
room for panier dress beneath. The middle
forms of the back are completed by one, two,
or three box pleats The neck is very high,
and it is closed no matter whether the front is
double or single breasted. The collars are
fba hutt