The National tribune., 1882-09-02

RAISING FOREST TREES FROM SEEDS
continued-T The soil having been brought
into good condition, and well, pulverized
three or four inches, deep, it will be ready
for the seeds. The most convenient method
for after-culture is to SOW in drills; broad
cast sowing requires more tedious labor in
removing weeds, and altogether prevents
the surface cultivation so beneficial to
growing crops. The distance between the
drills viii be determined by the method of
culture intended. If hand culture is to be
employed exclusively, they may be placed
about eighteen inches apart, but if for horse
culture, then they will need to be drawn at
least three feet apart The depth of the
drill will be guided by the size of the seed
Chestnuts, peach-stones acorns and all the
large kinds of nuts should be covered with
about three inches if the soil is light, but in
heavy soils covering of two inches will be
sufficient. The best covering Immediately
over the seeds is 4 compost of leaf or woods
mold and sand; two or three inches of this
light soil laid over the seeds, then tramped
firmly over with the feet, viii place them in
the very best condition for growth. Press
ing the soil firmly around and over the
seeds will secure a more uniform supply of
moisture around them, which will assist
termination, and the covering of light, well
pulverized soil will present no impediment
to the growth of the young shoots, which
often occurs when the soil is of nature
that will become hard and compact when it
is dry, and through which the young germs
ca 1t penetrate. ,,r,.-
lA-t and very small seeds are more diff
cult to manage than the larger kinds. They
require to be sown on the surface and lightly
rolled in, and the surface afterwards rolled
smoothly. In sowing these small seeds in
drills, particular care must be taken that
they are not too deeply covered. A rule
has sometimes been announced that all
seeds should be covered with thickness Of
soil equal TO their diameter, and this is
probably as near being general good rule
as can be given for seeds that are sown in
glass frames, or in greenhouses. But in
ordinary field and garden culture we prefer
doubling this quantity of covering, and we
think that this is in the main a very safe
rule to follow.
But the best method of insuring healthy
termination is to shade the seed rows until
the young plants are well up. Where only a
few seeds are sown, perfectly shaded spot
may be selected for them; the alterations
attending warm, sunny days and cold nights,
on ,o1d -o;,,g ,,ro,-as ;,,;,,,;o,7e To +ba srUaIi
ing or terminating seeds. If they COM
mence swelling and then receive a check
from cold, they Will probably rot instead of
growing. Shading keeps them under more
uniform conditions, both as regards heat and
moisture. Various expedients may be
resorted to for procuriD- shade; covering
slightly with straw will answer a good pur-
pose provided that it is removed before the
young plants become intermingled with it;
when this occurs it is safer to leave the
straw and allow the plants to grow up
through it, than TO attempt its removal
with the risk of destroying many of the
plants, Brush laid rather thickly over the
seeds with few cornstalks on top so as to
help increase the shade will generally be
available on farm. a heavy sprinkling Of
chaff sown over the seeds and then rolled in
is better than leaving the surface of the
ground fully exposed.
When the quantity to be sown is small,
or in cases where the seeds are very fine,
such as seeds Of the mulberry and birch,
they can be managed with more certainty
of success when sown in boxes, and kept
covered with grass and shaded during sun
light, removing the shade and cover during
the night, after the seeds vegetate. Expo
sure to the air when the sun is not shining
isthemost important feature nraising plants
from the small kinds of seeds. The plants
are usually very minute and slender for two
OF three weeks after they appear, and in a
close, damp atmosphere they will speedily
disappear; technically, they damp off-[To
be continued.