Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-07-08

| fashioned yellow poke trimmed With lowered
i black ribbon and s.i5 carried ablack silk bag,
1 drawn with ribbon strings upon her arm
For a famous dinner to be given TO dis
tinguished individual at Newport, fashion
| able New York dressmRker sent down dress
/ OF poppy red satin, with short plain skirt,
| trimmed 18th thick chiccoree fuche, mixed
| with ivory satin. A deeply pointed and PAN
/ Tered bodice was edged in the same manner,
| showing the front of the skirt, which was
| trimmed with ruches, alternating with ruff1es
| Of lace. The bodice was cut low, narrow
square, surrounded with ruching and lace,
and the satin sleeves fitted close down to the
elbow were fiaished with chiccoree ruches and
wide open ruffis OF fine lace.
Another dress Of rose hued brocade was
made precisely similar to this. only the front
was Of plain fcelle satin, covered with deep
fiounce of duchesSe lace.
YACHTING AND SEASIDE DRESSES
Yachting becomes more and more fashiona-
BILE wear by year. and great deal Of taste and
much skill are expended upon costumes for
young ladies' who are invited to share in the
delightful pastime. The sailor costume with
Garibaldi waist. which was so very much in
vogue few years ego, has disappeared entire
~. and the Jersey, the belted blouse waist,
ard the deep, close fitting basque have taken
It's place. In best circles there is q decided
difference between the yachting dress Of a LADY
that is married ladv-a chaperon or matron
Of q party-and the girls. The chaperon viii
wear deep, square cut vest aud deeper Jacket.
and jabot Of lace; a large black straw hat with
a wide flexible brim, trimmed with messy
border soft and becoming as feathers but not
so easily affected by sea air. ami having Grim
son pomp0ns at the side. The girls will wear
navy blue flannel dresses, belted in with DARK
red sateen dark red sateen collars trimmed
with wide Irish lace. and broad brimmed sailor
hats set back on the head and trimmed with
bands OF red or blue satin ribbon. Blue gray
suits are very pretty trimmed with poppy red.
but cold grays and blues do not look so well
upon the water as upon the land
A very handsome yachting dress, made re-
Gently for married and brilliant brunette of
pt rhsps thirty-fve, was of bottle green cloth
trimmed with many rows of very fine and mar.
row gold braid, with an almost imperceptible
mixture of dark green silk on the gold The
deep vest was OF dark crimson broc Ade in a
small feathery figure fastened with tiny bronze
plaque buttons. Her nat was very dark green
straw. Of the creole shape previously describ-
ed, and it was trimmed with large. well curled
ostrich feathers-one crimson, the other dark
green. The skirt was plain, but laid in fine
close killings The lady's dinner dress for
yachting was of ruby satin. with very short
plain skirt, bOrdered with thick fuche; square
half low bodice, and elbow sleeves, with gold
lace laid fiat and also set up from the edge;
high shoes fastened with diamond buckles: and
ruty silk stockings embroidered with minute
gold flies.
Gentlemen, it is said. do not like ladies to
suppose that they can dress ANY way" on
board yacht, or even that they can wear
ordinary travelling dresses and an old silk for
dinner dress, so that an invitation for few
days trip or excursion is sometimes rather
onerous if due respect must he paid to the
hosts wealth and preferences. I5 is considered
easy, and blameworthy because it is so easy,
to a woman of fashion; but nothing is more
difficult 1t requires as much geuius in its way
as to perform any other art work. The sue.
cess of art is its conceament and to make it
look as easy as nature. This is what the sue
cessful woman OF fashion must do. She must
look and act as if she had grown behind her
various masks and surprises, and 50 il each
one were part of herself.
The Brighton Beach, dress is of ficelIe
pongee or thin wool with an embroidered
trimming On the material, and gathered
Mother Hubbard collar of dark maroon or
wine colored satin trimmed with ivory Irish
or Florentine lace. Large hat Of dark maroon
straw, trimmed with satin ribbon and pompons
ard brim faced with pleated lace. or the ar
raDgement may be reversed and pleated lace
used on the outside while the brim is faced
with the twilled surah the shade of the straw.
Another style of "Coney island dress is
m ade in two shades of sateen-fawn and Grim
son, dark gray and green two shades Of China
blue. or any Other combination preferred. The
shortiplaia skirt is made of the darker SHADE
mounted with pleatings. aud panieFed basque
of the lighter A straight cape OF the darker
completes the suit which is often trimmed
with lace or embroidery upon the BASQUE the
cape and across the apron part OF the skirt
The wearing of bunch OF the flowers that
happen 10 he in season is an almost universal
fashion with young girls of ali classes this sea
SOB, and is charming caprice OF the moment
The streets filed. first with Iilacs then
with field daisies and buttereups. then with
70 es and fances. By and by Il will be golden
that for ten cents any one may inhale the
sweetness OF the woods ard fields. il they are
debarFed from their full enjoyment.
BATHING DRESSES.
There is less change perhaps in bathing
dresses than in any form of costume worn by
women, and there ought not to be any at ali.
1t should be easy to make dress suited to go
simple a purpose, and then It should be ad-
hered to without attempting change or aItera-
ton. The attempt is usually made to bring
American ideas in regard to bathing dresses
nearer the European standard, and this NAV
well be done in regard to the good cut and
Shapeliness OF the garments; but the ahsance
in this country of bathing machines which run
down into the water and enable the batber at
seaside resorts abroad TO step from her box into
| the water. is sufflcient reason why the sleeves
and tr. users of our women's bathing dresses
should maintain their standard of length The
parade before hundreds or eyes and opera
glasses Of men, women aud girls marching
from bathing houses down to the beach or
along the sand and into the water Is sufficiently
trying with legs and arms partly covered, and
would gladly do 1t IL they could without this
vulgar IL not indecent exposure.
Fashions that come and go have no reason
for their existence beyond the desire to make
a sensation, create novelty or do Something
different from last year. The bathing dress
always consists OK the blouse and the trousers
the former belted in and cut with but little
/ IuuneSS. as IHlS last not only adds to the
weight but renders the skirt more liable to ffy
up from the body in the water, and encumbers
without protecting it. The foreign bathing
| dresses are well shaped and some of them are
made in the Princesse fashion (whole) without
skirt, the waist belted in broadly with a piece
of the blue and white stripe that forms ire
collar. The legs are cut of a little below the
knee, and the sleeVez are short. hpt &C 70
marked, iad5az are not in their bathing dresses
| except IN the water. The bathing machines
run down on wnee.S into the waves and go
after the he.cners at signal. Here it is
VArT different, and no modest girl or woman
would think of cutting her bathing dress in
| such fashion unless her bathing place was
| private and secluded. The difficulty of finding
| ready-made really good and permanent designs
10 what should be so simple an outfit as bath
| ing dress is well known, and for this reason it
| is much better tOlbUy the material and make it
| up to suit individual tastes The cost will
| probably be more, but the satisfaction will be
| greater, and the dress will be good for several
seasons instead of one. The prettiest dresses
of the season are OF Clark blue. trimmed with
| light blue and white stripe, collars narrow at
| the back, but coming down into deep square
| corners in front: broad belt of the trimming,
and band above the pleating of the flannel.
THE LAST OF THE HOUSE OF A. t. STEWART.
This week closes up the great house of A. T.
| Stewart & Co., which for sixty years has exer-
| csed an enormous influence upon the trade in
women1s wear in New York city, and indeed
| throughout the whole country. 1t has been a
pitiful sight for wesks to see the ruin which has
| come upon a COLOSSAL SGTuCtufe, up WIN
| SO much care and tended with so much pride
by its original owner 1t would have been
a lesson for women also to have
seen what those things were that lost
their value and became so much trumpery
when the glamour of a fictitious idea in regar J
to Style" and fashion was taken away from
| standard articles, Common linens and hosiery
and gloves and flne fabrics of pure quality
! maintained their price, and were at
very email reduction, il any. But the
fancy =" goods - the gilt-edged but
feather-edged fans-went for what they would
bring-and were dear at any price. For
months past the formerly great house with its
armies OF attendants has been gradually de-
nuded OF its statesmen and superintendent as
well as its choice goods, and in their places are
the cash boys, who stand behind the counters
and do their best with the curious medley of
bargain hunters. 1t has been a pitiful sight,
and those who have known stewards, - and to
whom it has been a household word Tor nearly
half century, wish it had stopped in its glory
and been spared this humiliation.
JENNIE JUNE.