Phillipsburg herald. [volume] (Phillipsburg, Kan.) 1882-1905, 1882-10-05
Home Dressmaking.

proved pattern and following the dlrec-
lions printed upon it, selecting a new
pattern for each distinct style, while in
Europe many ladies adhere to the old
plan of cutting one model and using it
for everything, trusting to personal skill
or luck to gain. the desired formation.
However, some useful hints are given
which are well worth offering after the
paper pattern has been chosen.
The best dress makers here and abroad
use silk for lining, but nothing is so dur
able or preserves the material as well as
firm slate twill. This is sold double
width and should be laid out thus folded:
Place the pattern upon it with the upper
part toward the cut end, the selvedge
for the fronts. The side pieces for the
back will most probably be got out of
the width, while the top of the back will
fit in the intersect of the front. A good
yard of stuff may be often saved by lay
ing the pattern out and well consider
ing how one part cut into another.
Prick the outline on to the lining; these
marks serve for guide for the lacking.
In forming the front side plaits be
careful and do not allow fold or crease
to be apparent on the bodice beyond
where the stitching commences. To
avoid this, before beginning stick pin
The head will be on the right side, and,
holding the point, one can begin pinning
the seam without touching the upper
part of the bodice. To ascertain the
size of the button-holes put piece of
card beneath the button to be used and
cut it an eighth of an inch on either side
beyond. Having turned down the piece
in front on the buttOn-hOle side, run
thread sixteenth of an inch from the
extreme edge, and again another the
width of the card. Begin to cut the first
button-hole at the bottom of the bodice,
and continue at equal distances. The
other side of the bodice is left wide
enough to come well under the button
holes The buttOn-holes must be laid
upon it and pin put through the center
of each to mark where the button is to
be placed. In sewing on the buttons
put the stitches in horizontally; if per-
pendicularly they are likely to pucker
that side of the bodice so much that it
will be quite drawn up, and the buttons
will not match the button-hOle.
AS to sleeves. Measure from shoulder
to the elbow and again from elbow to
the wrist. Lay these measurements on
any sleeve patterns you may have, and
lengthen or shorten accordingly. The
sleeve is cut in two pieces, the top of the
arm and the under part, which is about
an inch narrower than the outside. In
joining the two together, if the sleeve is
at all tight, the upper part is slightly
fulled to the lower at the elbow. The
sleeve is sewn to the armhole with no
cordings now, and the frOntseam should
be about two inches in front of the
bodice seam beneath the arm, but one
prtriIa1 in fbiS Inv tho form, Of
the wearer.
Bodices are now worn very tight fit
ting, and the French stretch the material
well on the cross before beginning to
cut out, and in cutting allow the lining
to be slightly pulled, so that when on
the outside stretches to it and insures a
better fit. An experienced eye can tell
French cut bodice at once, the front side
pieces being always on the cross. In
dress cutting and fitting, as in everything
else, there are failures and discourage
ments, but practice overrules these little
matters, and trying again" brings a
sure reward in success.
Another hint may be of benefit to per-
sons of moderate means. They should,
as rule, dress in black or lark colors,
as such are not conspicuous, and conse-
quently do not tell their date as light ar
ticles do. A blue dress. for instance, or
red feather, how plainly they speak of
the wearers identity even at q distance,
and how glaringly they tell of the length
of time they have been in wear.
A sensible suggestion is made in re-
gard to the finish in necks of dresses for
morning wear. Plain collars have rather
stiff appearance, tulle or crepe isse
frilling are expensive and frail, so it is a
f1no 10 Of
really good washing lace, about an inch
and half in depth; quill or plat and
cut into suitable lengths to tack around
the necks of dresses. This can be easily
removed and cleaned when soiled. A
piece of soft black Spanish lace, folded
loosely around the throat, close to the
frillings, but below it, looks very pretty;
or you may get three yards of scarf lace,
trim the ends with Fittings, place it
around the neck, leaving nearly all the
length in the right hand, the end lying
upon the left shoulder being about half
ayard long. Wind the larger piece twice
around the throat, in loose soft folds,
and festoon the other yard and half,
and fasten with brooch or flower at the
side.
The dresses made now at the fashion
able establishments are called emergency
COSIuluGSs DGlllS luStOC CilIlOI 1OI SpCCtdl
occasions or because the lady has money
enough to pay for what she does not
really need, which is certainly an advan-
tage to the dressmaker, who must have
employment at all seasons to provide
the family bread.
One of these very elegant toilets is of
turquoise blue surah and lake blue vel
vet, and is intended for fall wear as well
as the watering place. The skirt is
gracefully cut and edged with velvet,
half yelled over with border of Chan
lilly lace, no paniers or puff, trimmed
with Openwork embroidery, cream col
ored, thrown over the skirt and caught
up several times; bodice with a lace ruf1ie
over embroidered plastron, with basque
skirt in front and pulled out at the back;
sleeves three-quarters long, pulled out
at the armhole, with embroidered re-
vers at the bottom. All sleeves, almost
without exception, are semi-short or
three-quarters long, so that long gloves
or mittens must be worn.
A pretty dress for little girl has short
skirt of Japanese foulard, slashed open
about half way up at regular distances
to admit of triple fold being inserted.
The blouse is made of blue surah,
trimmed with Venetian lace; the sleeves
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