Morning journal and courier., 1882-10-03


 Finally after much ado we take a droschky and go to the hotel. A few minutes after arrival another call comes for our pass. ports to ascertain if they have been 0tsed, and then an individual descri ption of every mem Der of our party is sent to the different po- lice stations in town So much for Peters burg's liberty. Alas alas that so beauti- full an artery should be condemned to bleed to death for want of liberty of action, of speech and fain would I say of breath. Everything here is new and unlike what we have seen before. Immense and numerous palaces, large churches and buildings, beau tiful parks, city reclaimed as by magic wand out of marsh and alongside an ab ject, low, crouching population as nowhere you meet in Europe.
 After refreshing ourselves we procure guide to visit the churches. First we are taken to Peter -Paolowsky, fortress and church. Here all the Czars sleep their last sleep. Here lies the great Peter, the founder of the city, whose genius called it forth out of the water. How marvellous to think that all these huge buildings, these heavy church es rest on piles. As enter the main gate our drivers (dressed in caftans, sort of dress fastened by belt) take off their caps and devoutly cross themselves, does every Russian of the old school he passes a church or shrine. The interior of Peter Paoiowsky is very fine and contains some
 aluable shrines. From thence visit the first house built in 17O5 by Peter the Great, which was the beginning of this immense city. The bedroom has been transformed into chapel. On our way home the guide shows us the spot the Catherine canal where the late Alexander II. met his untime- ly end. A temporary chapel has been erect. ed on the spot and an imperial guard stand watch night and day. From all it is evident that the city is under martial laws, and to me the beauties we witness are marred by the want of freedom of thought and ex pression. St. Isaac, which lies in front of our hotel, is, no doubt, the finest church in Petersburg. It is surrounded by 8 colonnade of monoliths of fine jasper. The inside contains beautiful columns of lapis lazuli, malachite, and contains also superb bronzes. Even on this Monday morning the churches are we'll filled. As affairs stand now in Rus sia it is almost matter of impossibility to gain admittance to the Winter Palace. The guide tells us it is no to try, for since two years no stranger has been admitted. Yet we do not intend to be baffled. One of the gentlemen decides at least to make an effort and succeeds, thanks to the kindness of friend of Governor English, who is glad to find an opportunity to show kindness to Americans. But even then there is no end of writing and red tape to be gone through with, but reach our aims little do we are. We do get in, but sticks hats, um- brellas, everything is taken away, and es- corted by a double guard we rushed through those magnificent halls, which we would have liked to examine at leisure. The chapel is very beautiful indeed. The sh rine room, grand hall, is equally fine. The ball room, lighted by 20,OOO candles, is indeed most spacious and beautiful hall of exquisite beauty. The main entrance and stairway, used only on State occasions, must offer most gorgeous sight It is divided into three halls, the center one for the impe rial family, the two others for the diplomatic corps. One of our party stops minute to admire picture and immediately an officer &0h har oClyin har fH p1o on.
 Fear and anxiety are in every face, and yet no one dares to express what they think. namely, that some terrible catastrophe is breeding, which threatens sooner or later to break out and revolutionize all Russia. Dur ing our stay at St. Petersburg fifty Nihilists had been arrested and imprisoned. The eight white stallions destined to the corona tion had been found dead poisoned short time ago by the Nihilsts. I merely mention these facts to show how matters stand in Russia.
 Among other buildings worthy of note I would like to name the Church of Kazan, an imitation of St. Peter's in Rome. Equally remarkable and we'll worth visit is Peter hof, the Versailles of St. Petersburg. The gardens are in the French style and beautiful ly kept. The fountains are exquisite. Here l in this lovely sojourn the Emperor lives prisoner, never daring to go to Petersburg -an uncrowned head waiting for the crown which may become a martyrs crown. How | lovely the scenery and yet how sad. Every alley and avenue is guarded by soldiers. There is dinner to day in the palace in hon. or of the christening of the young princess l The King of Greece Is with his sister the Empress. We see her standing on the bal cony. She looks so sweet dressed in laven der silk, pearls in her hair and round her l neck. She bows gracefully as she perceives \ us- Her face is pale and somewhat sad, but very pleasing. The Emperor is not visible and am told that he seldom shows himself and never takes the same drive twice. The next day we visit the School of Mines. I It contains a very rich collection. They show the largest pearls, diamonds and l gold and silver ore. A miniature mine, with 1 all it's appendages, is also shown to us. How ever, the interest soon becomes deeper when 1 the keeper adds here such & great man and there another ended his life in exile Why, ! alongside all that nature can afford to make country rich and blessed. must man alone be miserable? Why must this noble country still grope in political darkness and lack that l liberty which enlightens the world? One afternoon we devote entirely to the l Hermitage. Here passports needed to | secure entrance. This palace was erected by Catherine II. and contains collection of l paintings of different schools. some by Rus l sian artists which are of great beauty. The sculptures are equally fine. Canova's dancer ! Amor and Psyche are here. The gallery called ''Peter the Greats" gallery contains | jewels of great price. Many belonged to him.
 Others belonged to Catherine |, Catherine II. and Potemkin. To l name all the objects of art con
 tained in this gallery would weary the reader, l but if ever his good angel should guide him l hither I would request him to spend few
 hours here, and am sure he would not re- l gret it.
 To say that you have seen Petersburg
 thoroughly a drive along the isles of the
 Neva is important. Here are the villas of
 the wealthy patricians. Flowers and hand
 some trees delight the eye. The islands are
 united by pretty bridges, and the road which
 fellows the windings of the river is varied
 and interesting. Another thing travellers
 ought not to neglect is to drive through the
 beautiful Prospect Nevsky, the main street | In Petersburg, and to stop for dinner at Pal
 kine's restaurant, the best in town. Here
 one must dine la Russo, take his tea a la | Russo, tea brewed in one of their delightful
 samovas, drunk out of glass with slice of
 lemon and piece of sugar instead of milk. | Tea taken in this manner is thoroughly re-
 freshing and has none of the effects which l so often accompany our tea.
 So much is to be seen that a week is little l enough, but the heat Is very oppressive
 that we decide not to stay any longer for fear
 of the fever. We therefore bid farewell to
 this very interesting city, our hearts filled
 with sympathy for it's people, this city whose
 beauty has delighted us, for whose future We
 make the best of wishes. We can go, for
 we have our written permission in hand, a
 formality without which no one can leave
 Russia. but though with regret, yet with re-
 lief we quit country where the word liberty
 is as yet unknown. To live in this political
 atmosphere would be death to the mind and
 to the intellect. And yet again I say my
 warmest sympathy remains with this people,
 and wish the day may not be far off when
 the standard of liberty will wave all over it's
 land. CLEMENTINE V. ENGLISH.