Morning journal and courier., 1882-05-17
Price Four Cents.

fnement-have in no instance adopted the
 crinoline of other days, which is said to be l in fashion ct the present time; still, there l is no doubt of a greatly increasing fullness of | skirt, which, If kept within moderate limits
 is far preferable to the drawbacks and un- 1 gainly lank lines of the other extreme. The modern crinolette is universally worn, and l is both useful and graceful. The old-fash- l toned wire monstrosity known as the hoop ! was neither.
 l Sloping shoulders are enduringly unfssh- ] ionable. In days gone by their possession | was considered indispensable to establish any claim to having good figure. Nowadays | fashionable women dress the shoulders as | much possible to produce the desired ! height and squareness-shirred scarfs, high | puffed sleeves. and even beaded epsulets and ] floral garnitures being set upon the shoul- ders to produce extra height. So it seems that even the standard of the beautiful is regulat- l ed by the dictates of fashion.
 A novel dress cap has appeared resembling f in shape the pictures of caps worn by the Italian peasantry. The crown is somewhat high and peaked, and the brim or band rather | wide. One of these shapes exhibited is l covered with black spEigged net on founda- 1 ton of the same color. A pale primrose crepe scarf is carelessly twisted around the edge of the brim and fastened down here and there l by small venomous-looking green insects of
 
 | puzzle entomologist to classify. New Parisian coTsages show the fronts con- | tinued in lomg panels, which reach nearly to 1 the foot of the underskirt, after the man. 1 ner of the fronts of the old French surtout though fitting the form much more closely.
 handsome dress of prune eolored satin, covered with tiny shirred rufies, has cor sage of darker prune- colored velvet, the long panel fronts embroidered with shaded silks of still deeper hues than the velvet. In the
 back the corsage is cut into deep vandykes, underneath which is set Louis Quinze scarf of the satin fabric.
 The embroidery on kid gloves is very artis- tic and pretty this season for example, on browlI gloves the small leaves and buds shade
 gradually from coffee color to palest yellow; on dark green gloves the. silk graduates from invisible or bottle-green to the soft hue of
 the tender leaves of spring; black gloves are embroidered in contrasting silks of various shades, all alike being shaded from the dark
 est to the hghtest tints of the same dye; and now that shaded and contrasting colors are so much in vogue, the new gloves will doubtless
 be an harmonious addition to the fashionable toilet
 good way to freshen a round hat of straw which has become somewhat faded or yellow ed by wear is to sponge the hat with diluted ammonia water and bit of white soap to cleanse it thoroughly. When quite dry cover
 
 preferred. Languedoc netting is pretty, and can be bought at a greatly reduced price, being little out of fashion. Shirr the net close to the band around the crown, and leave the outer edge nearly plain, simply yelling but not hiding. the straw beneath. An Alsa- tian bow of wide ribbon and cluster of bright flowers will cover the crown
 Many of the fabrics used during the cold season will be worn for many week. 5o come, while the addition of myriads of thinner fabrics and lighter hues and styles will give an uncommonly varied choice from which all tastes may be accommodated; but broche, watered silk, yelvets, cashmere, and ladies' cloth costumes will all be worn on the cool days of both spring and summer. Gros grain and faille will be largely used, as their return to public favor is widely recognized. Soft drapery and semi transparent fabrics such as voile reiigieuse and many other varieties known under the generic name of ''veilings" will be worn in combination with gros-@~ silks, poIka-d dotted or striped sa9 moires. In woolens bright hecks os
 neutral grounds are very fashionable, and the t1nsel-woven fabrics of Elective" fame have achieved quite success even in America The demi season. dresses are decidedly quite in style, tailor made costumes being so great ly in favor.