Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-11-02
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
AUTUMN STYLES FOR BUSY WO-
MEN AND OTHER WOMEN.
Beauty and Fine CIOthes-FashIOns
Ia Furs and SeasOnabIe Novelties.


ID carry them out and this is one of the rea-
the place of women as dressmakers and cos
tune designers. Dress has become many sided.
1t represents history, classic literature, santa
~ science, physiological research, end the
cropping of an infinitely varied class Of mind
after beauty per seas a something by itself.
The average woman dressmaker is unframed
untaught. She does not know enough to be
exact even in her copying of others, much less
TO be original AS for historic ideas, or classic
ideas, she does not know what you mean. She
follows her pattern, only she rarely succeeds
in getting the two sides of it alike, end cannot
move an inch beyond her orbit.
The male dressmaker has the advantage
usually of having received a tailor apprentice
ship, and is therefore accurate; also, he never
acknowledges that there is anything he does
not know-he plunges in boldly where the
more timid footsteps Of woman would fear to
tread, although he may be no better acquainted
with the road than she is, but the man trusts
much to the ignorance of his customers being
equal to his own, while the woman would lack
the courage to take the risk-perhaps feel too
conscientious to do it. The dress question,
like every other in these days, has assumed
new and complicated forms, and requires more
thoroughly trained and educated intelligences
to deal with it. Our college-bred young women
rush into writing or teaching. or drift into
dependence and poverty-they will not
lower themselves, as they think, by
doing homework or dressmakiDg We
are therefore obliged to send abroad or
resort TO men, and the curious result
is that our working population, those who
need work and must live by It, do not know
how to work. while those who have been
taught at all have been taught to despise it as
a means OF subsistence.
In the meantime ideas spring up In better in
stTucted communities and travel here whether
we are ready for them or not. and the only diff
ference We realize is that we have to pay very
high price for them instead Of being able 10
sell them to others, as we might If we origin
ated them ourselves. When costume society
is started with great artists at its head, In
order to correct popular errors and put stop
to incongruties and historical inaccuracies in
dress and fashion. the dress question must be
considered no longer as frivolous or
irrational, but as belonging to the domain of
Art-its place in that domain depending of
course upon the beauty. the originality, the in
telligent grasp of possibilities, the education
of eye hand and sense, that is put into it.
What the future may ring to US of harmony
and splendor, of nobility in design and exalta-
ton in color, may be dimly foreshadowed In
what we see to-day. We may certainly de-
pend upon more cheerful world, upon bright
er aspects, upon the use OF lovely and more
varied color. upon q less fuperealprocession Of
sad, black-robed women, ard also upon this
introduction Of light and Soitness and beauty
in essentials taking the place of the tawdry
efforts acknowledgement amin te the dullness and
coarseness of our prese 1T standard.
The dress question is rapidly diHerentiating
itself and assn ming the same aspect for some
women that it does for men. For the profess
sional woman of to-day-the woman worker
fashion does not exist any more than for men.
Her needs are as imperative and as uniform as
those Of men, and demand dress at all times
that is quiet, unobtruSive and gives little
trouble. Get rid of the frequert changes and
temporary cAprices, and the dress Of the
woman is superior in comfort in many respects
to that Of man. She can dress herself more
evenly, with more warmth and regard to
changes ia the weather. The single obstacle
(the sgirt to rapid locOmotion is just now as
little of a hindrance as possible, for it can be
made without fiouncing, punching, or tie back.
and as both men and women are prejudiced
in favor of skirts for women. they must con-
tinue to be accepted and kept within the bounds
of reason-if til 1T can be done.
BEAUTY BEAUTIFULLY DRESSED.
Beauty unadorned stands very little chance
nowadays by the side of plainness splendidly
adorned, yet there never was time when
beauty was acknowledged to possess a right
diviuer to be and only to be than now. Beauty
patent to the eyes of men is dover as rich as
mines Of wealth can confer, and gift more
potent then that of genius. But it has to be
stamped and labelled to be recognized, for the
average OF mankind are destitute of standards,
and dance to the popular tuue, whatever that
may happen to be. Still, al Ter all is said and
done, a beautiful woman, beautifully dressed,
is a fair object to look upon, and worth taking
some trouble to see. This draws the crowd to
the feet Of Mrs. Lsngtry. Her memetic art
cannot be so fine as that of Sarah Bernhard,
hat herself and her dress are sufficient study
Men will go to see the woman; women will go
lIlN - i
exists between Mrs. Langtry and her leading
support, Miss Kate Pattison. Mrs. Lantry's
dresses are made IN Paris; MISC PattiSOn's in
London Probably Miss Pattison's do not equal
Mrs Langtry's in cost. but they afford an op-
portunity to judge of the fit and style of Lon
don dressmaking. English ladies are charged
is synonym for elegance and the perfection
of taste, a London dressmaker is supposed to
be given over irretrievablY to vulgarity and
dowdyism.
Now, if this was true ten years ago it is not
true to-day, and Miss Pattison's wardrobe,
made entirely by a London house, will fully
bear out the assertion Her first dress as Mrs.
Montressor, in the "Unequal Match " is of ruby
velvet and salmon pink satin. with brocaded
front and roping of pearls; high collar edged
with pearls; salmon pink vest The second
dress is primrose gown OF terra Gotta bro.
cade-a very soft ground shade, with bouquets
of wild flowers tied all over it. 1t is lined with
terra Gotta satin and trimmed with full iabot
of tinted Flanders lace down its entire length.
III IS WO II over u pebllCOdJ Oh WnlG6 SILK ruined
with ivory lace. The first dress in "As You
Like It, in which she takes the part of Celia,
is of electric blue cashmere, and satin, killed;
coat bodice with inserted vest of
white silk covered with lace; large white
hat and feathers. The second dress
worn is pure canary c0lored satin, brocaded
in a very graC eful curled feather pattern. The
front is draped over a pleated satin petticoat
striped with white jet and pearl embroidery
The sides are Topped with ropes OF pearls, and
from one is suspended pouch covered with
pearl network. The edge of the skirt is cut in
over pleated satin and lace The bodice has
marquise collar edged with pearls, and the
sleeves are very pretty. Thew are open on the
back the entire length, and tied over full I'M
dersleeves of muslin. with silk shoe laces with
silver tags. Celia's forest dress is an excellent
model for fancy dress. 1t consists Of peacock
blue and bright red cashmere, blue bodice and
sleeves slashed with white muslin. white hem
stitched collar and cuffs leather pouch.
Mrs. Langtry's dresses are secret as yet.
They are said to have been made expressly for
her American engag ement, and whatever she
may be as an actress, she is mis-
her clothes will be legitimate objec's
Of interest. Historic parties, private theatre
Gals, and fancy dress entertainments are to be
in great form this year, and many theatre
''clubs" have been formed of young ladies who,
with sufficient male escort to save appearances,
intend to see Mrs. Langury in every part she
assumes, for the sake Of studying her cos
tunes.
EVENING IOlLEIS,
White is not used so much this year as for
several previous seaSons-tbat is all white-but
combinations of clear, pale shades of green and
pink with white are very much admired, the
color being used for the sides of the skirt and
draped or pleated or trim med with wide lace
or embroidery, or for the train and square bod
ice. All shrimp pink or very pale apple green
are perhaps even more distinguished, and some
have been imported that have cen exquisitely
embroidered with white jet and pearls. to which
lace is added as garniture The favorite colors
are decidedly pale, delicate pinks and green's
the latter taking on yellow tones in satins and
brocades, and such costly and heavy fabrics as
are more suitable for matrons than for young
girls, What are called art fabrics are in high
vogue among a certain travelled" class of
young women, and several charming dresses
have been made of a kind of white India silk
brocaded with gold and made I'D
in conjunction with plain white corded or |
twilled silk, covered in front it'll ruf1es of orr
entail lace. The brocade is in small floral or |
pattern, and forms a small princess |
train. which is cut out in points over pleRtings
Of silk, muslin and interior lace; and the open |
bodice las the small faring collar which is now |
80 fashionable, and a soft pulled sleeve to-not |
OVer-the elbow, which is of the India-silk mus
lin that forms the front of the SKIRT, and, like |
the sleeve, is softly pulled and ruff1ed with lace
A young girl with a slender yet rounded figure
3 pure blonde with hair of pale gold. has had /
One of these soft brocaded silks made up in a |
princesse dress with plain train and long point
ed sleeves open to the shoulder where it is held /
with filagreed scarrabee. The bodice is plaiu
he neck is pointed. and for ornament she
wears a string OF dull gold beads.
This costume sounds eccentric but it does
not look so. we have become so accustomed to
diversity ef' individual taste. There are sug-
sestions of almost every epoch in a really
fashionable assemblage, although. of course, |
he majority will show the prevailing conven-
ional ideas-puffed sleeves, high, rolling or |
ian-Shanpd collars Stiffanp6 n hon iv, 1