The Arkansaw traveler., 1882-06-25
WARTIME FASHIONS.
How the Women of the South Go, Along During the War of
 the Rebellion.
Ma1 W. Early.

Brought during the late war. but do no;
 know of any schronlclcr who has depicted
 he straits for clothes 10 which the women Ind girls of the southern oonfederacy
 terc reduced during the blockade Our &ry goods merchants had pretty good
 Rock on hand al the opening of the var. Ind this, with the supply VIC had our
 elves. enabled us to get on without press ng inconvenience for the first year ot the Far. Then we resurrected from old chests
 Ind closets ali the heirlooms ~e could
 Ind Tn the shape of ancient garments be- Npuging to our mothers and grandmothers. In which we looked sers much like l se, n grown-up Kate Oscenaway hgures. Ne began. also. 10 resort freely To the dyer. feeling the force of Geldsmith's line. Nightly altered: :. The only refuge is ;o Ac'
 - Fortunately. there was a wooden factory n Richmond during the war (the Grcn- ahaw Mills that turned out yery so:,. Gnod wooden cloth. There was also. l be- kcse. one at Sootis.ilie. l,trle town abou, 1even,y miles above Richmond. on the James Fiver and kana~ha canal. and one n Bou>ack's. n southwestern Virginia. These tao latter factores. though the, by
 np means furnished daint. fabries. E e,e all of great assistance Tn clothing . people of Virginia There were several
 pt;on cloth factories in operation n North Earolina during thc War. and from these
 Fe drew large pari of the cotton cloth bsed in Virginia then.
 # ln the country We had to resort "a the
 com. which on all old Virginia planta-
 ions was used fer inc purpose of supply Ing the negroes partially fl TO, entirely
 nth clothing. Elderly negro women were
 et apar to spin and weave for the others. They carried m the.E work generally III a xellar. their wild. sweet. mournful hymns
 hingfng with the sound of the shuttle oT the monctonous hum af the wheel. !, was noi music ot >o high an order as $chubeu's ar Gounod's = Splnning-whecl Song but II had a distinctive character 4nd charm of i,s own and was nlIed with n weird and plalntlve sweetness. ,he like
 pf which have never heard except n the Ringing of tobacco factory hands Durng fhe var homespun dresses were a sbed 1eal worn by Virginia country ladies for <yen day wear. and have seen some of fhe>c dresses fha, looked real pretty ard 5aunn on fresh young girls. The dyes {as well a> the cloth were q home pro duetion. Ivy leaves. set with alum. made . pretty gray. sumac leaves and ehinqua- pin bark made black: maple bark made a bush; lurple. and peach bark made green dye. speaking of homespun re- feminds me of d homespun bali gwen by
 the Richmond belles: not during the war.
 as some might reasonably suppose. but year or two before. and said to be one of the most charming and successful enter tainments ever gwen in Richmond. On this occasion all the young ladles ap- Reared IF coSvimes of hnmespun. made Gp in hundred pretty. taneiful. pictur- &sque styles.
 2 The men of the eonfcderaey. those in 1he army. al least. fared much better with Respect to clothes than ,he women dld ,he government providing them with uniforms 8mported from abroad through ,he block a ie. Occasionally. too woman would sget d prize n the shape oi d trunk nr :. box of new clothes smugeled through the Blockade. in which case her toilette would Dc the envN and admiration of all her Feminine friends Persons who had Friends or relatives n Baltimore. Phla- Aelphia or other northern cites would Sometimes be favored with box of store 2 1lo,hes-- remember such a box beln: Sent from Philadelphia to acquaintance
 pf mine in Richmond. who became ln consequence. the glass of fashion and the mold of form. 4 plaid ribbon in ihls
 box was lent by turns to vanous friends. ssho looked on ii as rare and dainty Sf.rm II. .h. 3ibbon of the order of the garter. Inc esrlter wore i, ro an elegan, entertainment 3n Richmond the las. winter of the war. Merchants as wei as individuals would occasionally receive goods through ,he blocSade. but these were scarcely opened
 before iheir eager catsoners would sclzc
 on them and buy them up. prices rose =lmos; as high as during the revolutionary fsrar of TO The last winter nt inc N AT 4he thinnest- riinsiest dress rose above Sloo a yard. Dresses that winter were enade with basque and fuil. piaIn skirt. 5pr fiounced one. semi-long Bali dress
 ts of silk CT other heavy material were 8nade after the memorial fashion of a
 Irecian waist. with full. plan skir, in frain behind, and do moi think any of Fhe changes or capuces of fashion have Am proved upon the beauty and simple ele- ssgance of thIs costume Muslin dresses ksere fiouDced 1T puffed, and 5y dn; Of be Sng carefully Garncd and laundred. ~ere zFnade rc do good service. On one occas- bon young lAdv of my acquaintance ap- Reared IT 4 sery dashing costume of Slnk silk b-ocade. the desIgn being so Barge and coarse as to cause q suspicion ahmong her lady friends that she had r,- fproslsed q ball costume ou, of an old brpc- sateile curtain; and a sprigh,iy young lady. soa the spur of the moment. composed a sparody on Moore -0agin oi the Harp. Beginning thusly:
 F lis befe, -a La; ;tis t-e., th.f s5~ N-sr for ih-s.
 W as q curtain 3f old
 But the rest ls foo full of personalities sfor repetition Such transformations and sInake-shifts were the orde. of ,he day dur Png the var. Numerous arrIeles -eon- srlsed by turns double debt to pay like
 fhe pieces of furniture described D. Gold fsmI,h. - Bs night bed. a ches, of draw