The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1882-03-17
New York Fashions.
lHarpers' Bazar.l

hips, and this is produced by several different
| styles Of corsage and drapery, such as pointed
waists with paniers, draped panier basques.
princesse polonaises with pointed bodice fronts
etc. There are not many seams in new corsa-
ges, but there are bones in each seam its entire
| length, and these serve to hold the waist down
over the hips as smoothly as the Jersey waists
| fit The ends of most waists are concealed BY
the drapery that is passed around the hips, ,.but
there are some pretty reyers basques that have
satin or embroidery turned up on the edge, bo-
ginning next the middle forms of the back and
extending to the front. This is ususlly about
four inches wide in the back, and tapers to
point in front, where it is finished by a ribbon
bow of long loops and ends; the upper edge Of
this reyers is neatly piped with two piping
folds; when embroidery is used for the revers.
the scslloped edge is at the top, and the plain
lower edge looks as If the embroidery hsd
come from underneath it on the wrong side;
the middle forms of the back are folded in one
or two double box pleats, and an irregular bow
of ribbon is set on ;rregularly, that Is. toward
the left side of the box pleats. few waists
are shown with side-form seams to the shoul-
ders, but tho short side-forms, of which there
are generally two on each side, are more often
seen. The neck is very high, and the shoui-
der seams very short.
A pointed V-shaped vest is in many dresses.
This reaches from the throat to the waist line.
and is seldom smooth, four graduated puffs be-
ing used instead. This is very pretty when
made of moiIe, or OF satin Surah on wool or
silk dresses, and to this embroidery may be
added, following its outlines, with the scalloped
edge falling ON the putfs. With these pulled
and pointed vests no buttons are used, the only
fastening being hooks and loops OF silk over
metal Ii buttons are preferred they are very
small and round-larger. than shot, but not 30
large as bullets. These are of crocheted silk,
or silver, gilt or other metal, or else OF wooden
balls covered with the dress material. The hat
metal buttons are not as large as silver dime,
are colored to match the material, and have
raised figures upon them-leaves, flowers, trees
and sometimes shepherdess with lambs. The
prettiest arrangement for making the neck OF
the dress very high around the throat is . bias
piece of satin gathered on the standing collar
by three or four rows of shirring, and forming
a small puff at the top, in which is drawing
string of narrow satin ribbon that is to be tied
in bow in front. For trimming the front OF
the waist, when the pointed vest and embr0t-
derry are not used, there are four folds Of satin
sewed in the shoulder seam, beginning at the
top and extending nearly to the armhols;
these folds are graduated narrower down to the
top Of the first darts, where they become only
three or four inches wide; a slit Is then mads
in the dress waist on each side Just above tho
darts, piped around with satin, and the folds
disappear therein; square turned-oyer collar
is then placed at the back of the neck, and
there is a standing collar in front.
The newest idea for sleeves is to make the
coat sleeve slightly full at the top gather Ii in
at the armhole, and put little padding inside
the top to make the sleeve stand upward. This
padding is put in a separate piece of silk lining
and when basted next the agmhole has very
pretty effect. Wrists are close, or else the
sleeve may reach only to the elbow, or it may
be halfway between the elbow and wrist. Two
soft puffs of satin turned downward toward the
hand are preferred to frills or plain cuffs; II
embroidery is used, the scalloped edge is
turned upward.
The lower edge of waists presents the great
est diversity; sometimes this is cut in sharp
point behind and before, and piped or corded;
in this case the waist is laced up the front, and
the pped edges rest on full panier drapery at
tached to the skirt. The more frequent ar
rangement, however, is to conceal the edges Of
the waist after it has reached the hips by fas-
tening the paDiers upon it with hooks and loops
or by pointed belt of four folds of satin, or q
ribbon sash beginning in the seam under the
arms, and thus trimming the front, while the
back has drapery sewed to its edge, making .
bouffant princesse polonaise effect. When .
draped basque is preferred, the basque is we'll
boned down over the hips. and scarf paniers
curved open in front are attached TO the edge,
This IS used lor spanish lace drv~so1 atau <vx ~
woollens. The simple polka basque IS nked
for Cheviots and other plain wool dresses
This, in its newest modification, extends even
ly around the hips three or four inches below
the waist line, and has box pleating finger
deep sewed on the edge. When longer coats
are used, these are also of even length all
around, and medium long. The fronts slope
away, or else are curved slightly, and the
broad side form of the back is heightened and
turned upward in cluster OF folds, and fas-
tened permanently in the middle-form seams
below the waist line.
Lower skirts are slightly wider, and econom-
ical modstes use the cotton satines Tor these
foundation skirts instead of cheap silks. A
great many skirts appear to be pleated their
entire length, but this pleating is only put on
the parts not concealed by upper drapery. Ten
quadruple box pleats of moire silk or satin
sometimes form the entire visible skirt, and
these are made over cotton satine skirt that
has narrow pleating at its foot. Woolen
skirts are more often laid in wide side pleats.
A new bordered effect is added near the foot OF
pleated wool skirts by inserting four tapping
tueks of satin three or four inches above the
edge. Some very pretty skirts OF cashmere or
nuns yeiing have narrow lengthwise tucks,
stitched by machine, extending from the belt
to near the foot, where an embroidered sell
wedge finishes this like fiounce; such skirts
are made Of the wide wool goods with embroid-
cry done on one edge, and are thus made cross
WAYS of the stuff; the narrow satin pleatlng of
puff is inevitable beneath such fiounces. Very
high full drapery in panier style, either quite
straight around or else curved open in front, 10
the popular trimming for the lower skirts.
THIS is made OF full width OF satin, and -
most often without trimming on the edge; 1t Ia
looped and knotted behind, and the straight
ends hang nearly to the foot of the skirt.
Striped faille and satin skirts have merely .
ruche at the foot, and the scarf paniers at the
top Embroidered cashmere and satin Surah
paniers are in curtain shape in front, being
formed of stitched tucks, beginning in the belt.
and extending half their depth. Gathered
fiounces are used, but not to the exclusion OF
pleatings, and there are many soft pnffs as bor-
ders of skirts, and also 10 form the trimmings
of the front aud side breadths. The white ba-
layeuse inside lower skirts is of open-worked
muslin in preference to lace and muslin pleat-
ings Skirt braid is now sewed in between the
skirt material and its facing.
For Spring silks and satins the inch-wide
stripes of contrasting colors are used, such As
brown with blue, lichen green with rose, ecru
with olive, etc.; one stripe is of SATIN and the
other of faille, which may be shaded. Tho
stripes are used for the pointed basque and
the plain round skirt, while plain satin like
one of the stripes forms the bouffant scarf pam
iers, and the wide ruche at the foot of the skirt
This is handsome in stripes of mordore satin
with pale blue faille. The paniers are OF the
dark satin, and the satin ruche at the foot is In
triple box pleats, caught together to show the
facing cf pale blue stripes
For afternoon and evening are waists and
paniers of cream white Spanish net-this is the
piece lace laid on white silk, with pulled
vest of cream moire and skirt of puffs of
white nuns yelling, with straps and bows OF
MORE and rows OF scalloped Spanish lace.
These white toilettes have no color, and are TO
be worn with natural flowers. Black Spanish
lace dresses have the Spanish ret over SATIN
Surah, forming draped basque, with the
pointed basque boned its whole length, and the
drapery of lace without lining covering the
hips. The coat sleeves are padded at the top,
and trimmed with black Spanish lace iabot
at the wrists. and similar iabots are down the
front from the throat to the point, being tied at
the throat and point by bow of shrimp pink
satin ribbon The skirt of black satin Surah
is covered with puffs and pleated Surah, wide
IL edged with Spanish lace. A narrow pleat-
ing of white lisse is in the neck and sleeves,
hut instead of the full white lace cravat bow is
the shrimp pink bow just noted. A balayeuse
of pleated muslin covered with open worked
embroidery is inside the skirt. The buttons
are tiny crocheted balls.
Mantles of Spanish laee-the net or piece lace
laid over satin Surah are among the most
dressy of the imported confections. Some OF
these are as long as the cloaks worn during the
winter, and are desgudd for spring wraps to be
put on when fur and plush lined garments aye
laid aside. The satin is sufficiently heavy 10
make lining unnecessary. Other long wraps Of
satin with so many frills of Spanish lace that
tho satin 10 almost concaalRd Some 0f thaza