The Portland daily press., 1882-03-30
New York Fashions.

Velvet in new and artistic shades is much
used for the accessories Of fine woolen dresses.
By accessories we do not mean either trim
mings or combinations, but those small yet i'm
portant parts of costume such as the collar,
the pointed vest, cuffs facings, and sometimes
a tablier or pettcoat front. Contrasts prevail
in these arrangements, and the wool goods is
usually very light with darker velvet TO give
it character; thus chaadisre, or copper-red vel
vet, completes Manila and pale gray CASH
meres; electric blue velvet that is almost green
and is called Douairiere, is associated with
cream white camel s-hair or Chuddah; and the
light buff ecru tints and pale resedas have dark
bronze or olive green velvets for relief. There
is an air OF distinction about these fine wool
stuffs that silk cannot have, and this is furih
or enhanced by the rich embroideries that are
added for garniture. The designs Of the
choicest Partisan dresses gives the general
effect of the priAcesse dress, as already des-
cribed. with close long waist, paniers, and
pleated skirt, yet the costume is not the all-in-
one princesse dress, but consists of two pieces
the waist and skirt--with drapery attached to
one or the other to conceal the place of joining.
The newest skirts are pleated merely in front
and back with six loose deeply folded side
pleats before and behind, while the sides are
quite plain. These begin at the belt, usually
terminate in embroidery at the foot falling on
a balayeuse flounce, and are draped at top with
scarf panier. Sometimes the front pleat falls
open toward the foot, and there is a pyrsmidal
fiat piece of velvet inserted the whole length of
the front from paniers to foot. Simpler dresses
of ecru French bunting or of cashmere are dis
tinguished by Byron collar OF olive green vel
vet, also fiat cuffs that turn upward and point
outward, being slightly larger than the sleeves,
and large square or crescent-shaped pockets on
the side of the basque. For light cloth cos
tunes for spring, French gray cloth is made up
with a Louis Qnatorze coat in which Is gar
net velvet vest nearly covered with white null
embroidery in Irishopoint patterns. and this is
also laid the velvet collar, cuffs, and pock-
cts.
A Frenchy combination of fabrics introduced
last spring by Worth is that Of dark cashmere
for the over-dress with a skirt of summer silk
either checked or striped, and, as further
anomaly, the cashmere has white embroidery
on muslin for trimming. For instance, sap
phire blue bodice, paniers, and panels of cash,
mere are worn over a summer silk pleated
skirt showing checks OF dark blue and cream
color: cream white null embroidery is laid fiat
on the blue cashmere bodice to represent a
pointed vest and cuffs, and also on the blue
panels, with the straight edge below, and the
scallops turned upward. This combination is
commended to those who have partly worn
summer dresses to be made over.
Falle Of fine reps with satin finish is found
in the imported dresses in chameleon effects,
and also plain. Sometimes the chameleon
failles change to show three or four tints, and
sometimes only two The plain failles are al
ready used in preference to satin on the hand
somest imported costumes for the street. Sat-
tin. however, is liked to place beneath trans
parent fabrics such as Spanish laces, beaded
net and the open-worked embroideries that
display the color through the figures. Faille
with two tints, such as ecru with rosy shading,
is also much used for lower skirts OF cashmere
and other wool costumes. Thus with panier
polonaise Of Manila cashmere this faille skirt
will consist of narrow box-pleating lined with
crinoine at the foot, while above it are two
deep-seated puffs of the faille formed OF kilt
pleats half yard deep, with the lower ends
turned under to make a soft pun, only one Oh
these pleatings goes entirely around the skirt,
while tine front requires two to conceal all that
part not hidden by the curtain drapery or the
paniers.
A fashionable French dressmaker has revived
the apron over-skirt once 80 popular, and never
entirely out of fashion, with its five full straight
breadths OF silk or satin. The new feature in
this is stitched pleats from the belt down to
take up the fullness in the front and sides,
while the back is very bouffantly box-pleated.
Another pretty fancy is that Of pleating satin
stripes of two shades to form the entire length
of the SKIRT and breaking the monotony by
turning back the pleats in dlamond-shaped OPP
enings at the knee. Thus pink and garnet
stripes fold all the pink out OF sight, showing
only garnet, except at the knee, where the re-
vers is seen. Still another French caprice Is
| that of fine tucks run by hand-not machine
site ied-lengthwise in woollen skirts
White dresses are entirely OF embroidery.
| with panier sash of satin Surah passed around
| the hips and tied in great bow, with ends for
drapery behind The shirred basque is of open
star embroidery entirely made on a lawn lining
| with deep sailor collar, The skirt is covered
| by three or four founceS OF embroidery, and
| the panier sash conceals the edge of the basque
| which is untrimmed. A breadth OF pale pink
| Surah with pale blue Surah lining in the loops
| and ends of the bow makes lovely panier
sash, and this is worn straight around the hips,
| as childrens sashes are. Narrower pink and
| blue Surah outlines point in front OF the
| BASQUE, beginning at the waist line in the un-
| der-arm seam, and tied low in the mlddlei
| small bows are on the throat and wrists. Wide
| embroidered fiounces can be used ior dress
! waists by making the scalloped edges of two
| tiounces meet down the middle OF the back.
| and also in front. The sleeves are also OF en-
| broidery, with a puff and irill at the wrists,
rounded upward to the inside seam. Simpler
| dresses of white dotted or Sprigged muslin, or
| of null or nansook, have pointed basque with
| insertion and scant frill of embroidery, and al
| so in pointed vest shape in front, with a Byron
| collar. The Greek overskirt is liked for these
| dresses edged with the embroidery and open-
| ing on ono side to show eight or ten narrow
embroidered ruffles that are placed horizontal
| ly on the lower skirt. Two frills gathered in
the middle like ruche trim the foot in the
way described, and have loops of satin ribbon,
! with a coquettish bow at the foot in front. A
single bow of long loops and ends is put on the
| right side-not in the middle-of the back OF
| the basque, and ribbon is tied in point in
| front. Pale blue moire ribbons. copper red
| satin, navy blue and bronze velvet ribbons, are
used on cream white null muslins.
Rev. Minot j. Savage has been lecturing in
Boston upon "What Brains are For" Had
the reverend gentleman lived in Texas he
would very quickly have learned that they
| we're intended principally to be blown out