Omaha daily bee., 1882-09-16

,ole ia attached while the shoe is y
urned inside out and which Is re- 7
.urned again for fishing. -
Tho manufacturinc and selling OF Il
leather mud other materials used w g.
shoe trade is mainly carried ON AZ h
Poston. aud tho value of the goods OF r
dis hind shipped from that city was l
rated in 1874 at S1,376,0OO. In the
year the shipment OF
sboes from Boston To
towns outside of New Eng !.
land was estimated at over . 1000, OOO 9
na,rs. Although the finest shoes are /
handsome and finished, great interest
attaches to the various improvements
in =. ,,hinery which has taken place
during the last 90 or 60 years. Inc
frat attempt to introduce machinery
upon q large scale was made III Eng
land in 1909, when q patent was
granted for a method of riveting soles
and heels to the uppers instead OF
seving them together; aud the famous
eng;neer. Brunei, was the first to in
troduce the machine into factory
where tho manufacture OF shoes was
carried ON by the invalid soldiers OF
Chelsea hospital, for the supply OF the
army. But this Euglish machine fell
into disfavor, and it was followed by
the general adoption of the American
factory system and the use of Amer.
can machinery. 1t would be impossi
HE To euumerate the various novel
ties and improvements in machinery
which have been made in the United
States since the invention OF the
wooden peg in fastening the
cheaner kinds of boots and
shoes by Joseph Walker in
1918. One of the most important OF
such machines is the pegging machine,
for which six different patents were
Granted in 1851, and which was per-
fected in 1860, since when 1t has been
in General use. BY this machine two
pairs of women's shoes a DO pegged
Q in a minute, and two, three, or four
@ rows of pegs can be put in at the same
v time. Equally important IS the sole
a sewing machine, by means OF which
G nearly 100 pairs OF women's shoes are
furnished with soles in an hour, and
800 pairs sewn as the result Of a days
~ work is considered fair. This Is the
Mckay machine already named, anc
a the income from tho royalties upon it,
use amounts to over $oUO,ooo. =
al mschine-made boot passes through =
p different hands, and a pair finished b,
,e hand through 33. That 10, of course
ne in manufactoriea; in small shops on
ne man can complete a pair alone, u II
IN 40 doing he will pass it through 80 dis
st tinct operations.
The mechanics employed N Me-
II. York are mainly foreigners, Irish an
az Italians making the best workmer
,le although Germans and Swedes al
10 largely employed. Manufacturers ga
m that the margin of profit upon shc
for making is far smaller than is supposed
led the materials being very expensiv'
ia and the best leather for uppers, whic
is imported paying a duty of 20 al
40 per cent. The cost of q pair of k
ara, uppers is 1926, or from 1874 to $50
are dozen. Heels are supplied to q
,nv manufacturers al the rate of 81. Of
,est dozen pair. Fancy shoes and slippe
are are principally made at custom stor'
) in and vary in style considerably mo
than every day boots and shoess abe
and which there has been for many ye'
i in an uninteresting monotony, chic
!, al varied by the introduction OF what
allv called the common sense or bro
the soled shoe, and the anatomical boot
lean shoe, which purports to be made
the exact proportions of the natu
" 1900 c-A ,t1Drf rannrH IN
ura- human foot Wicnou' r1saiu
/, it, exigencies of fashion. This latter
nish introduced in New York some l5y.e
ning ago by q chiropodist, and has gail
ork. considerable favors so much 30 7
uph. 30 men are in his employ, and
to a demand steadily increaseF, but
ouaI doubtful whether the patron
lean extended to this style OF
and will O YER exercise {
and. influence upou the trade. Last sea
style the fashion OF having sao'o
go the costume was much tn vogue,
the the fashionable shoemakers are
both opinion that this fall and winter
nm. preference will be given to line br'
aker. shoes for dinner wear and to "
com. satin or kid for full dress. Shoe'
,bI;c match costume are, of course,
of orally made to order, but 1t vii
a difficult to procure feathers In
nanv deep.toned colors which are u
US OF fashionable tiis "ihUvi' "r-
seen no longer worn across ~ NeP'
a the rosettes n BOWS Oh al hiiu' III
and of fashion. The low-cut tie, sho
ildrea the embroidery of a handsome 8
"a de- inc. is preferred, and will be ma
sboe bronze this season. "Spanish 81
a vii. were at one time fashionable,
drink. were usually of black satin, emt
their cred on the toes i'll beads, or eve
emory colored silks, and were only oil
Dutch able in very small Sizes, the ep
.round beauty priding herself almost as
stow as the Chinese upon the sma
,rland, and symmetry of her foot.
Recently alligator skin has
rtisan. largely used for gentlemen's ailI
J finest 1t is usually of the natural co
nade in being found very difficult to dy
uestion any of the popular shades. 1t
manu- durable, and Is gaining in fav
due to the purpose. Inc very pr
"a Mas. STYLES of all this season are she
more children's shoes, especially In
! settle for very small tots, "hich arc ~
d shoes the softest kid, eithe wni'e,
color, or pink, m triihinoo WIZ
lily, are frillings Of the same kid up tn
antilles, and around the TOP ohh:cor'
ne hun of different colors, hhiSheu o
Welsh little t~assels, are also Popuia!
Tyr, who Russian boot Tor niue Joys !
,pulence out OF fashion; nan SHOES are
emaker, usually worn, ana Whac are XII
var the Oxford ties,
my was A consideration OF Doots ahe
,husetts, is scarcely complete without a
.iderable of the many improvements int
for %DrOtectlon from the Weatn