Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1882-03-04
SPRING FAsnIoya
~CseiPy Notes by Jennie June- vvh,.A
Ladies will Appreciate.

promise OF an early season. write,
Jennie June in the Washington Star b.,
o'o"ght out spring designs and spring fabric,
IN profusion. Where lately vere n,,.h..
sr.;'a1, Iarred garments and long coats made
| con,h- iu,' are now lowered satins, ligb,
embroidered robes and nuns veil.
Onlr al ,he deilcate tints for summer wear
- "1ou' SIX weeks, and these broken by
"aini uays. have demanded the exneps;vs
garments lined with porpeou. rlnih 49,
trimmed with the plumage of birds or tbe
eAih OF the otter, which nerves and pur.e,
strained TO obtain, and already they are
suPportabie and must be replaced by LIGHT.
garments, Dy still more curious and 90.
centflc garments and combinations Fo,
!ashion Is nothing now if not eccentric. strik.
ing, peculiar, individualized and defective ;,
Soior Is the watchword. and color which has
heretofore rather shyly hidden itself and ONLY
"aue lis appearance in public in small
quah1it"s and on unusual occasions, is now
to come boldly to the front and be used in
masses so that the neutral and funeral
aspects OF our streets and day assemblages
may De gotten rid of; and the darker shades
Vi owe and brown, invisible green and
| sombre black be used as backgrounds for
r.
SPRING FABRICS.
A new departure always begins in the fab
rlc. because the manufacturers are on the
lookout for novelty; and they have trained
| men, some OF them real artists, to DESIGN
| 'he., patterns, to watch the markets, to keep
on the lookout for ideas and seize them he.
lore they are appropriated. The flavor of the
| natural school is very strong in the desiyns
of the recent French manufacturers. but Il is
often overlaid with what is artificial and nm.
true. There are some exquisite designs in
rich printed silks. The eglantine with shaded
| 1oilage, the wild honeysuckle and hedge roses
with buds and leaves are reproduced upon
tinted grounds with the fidelity of hand.paint-
ing; and when it is considered that these fine
shadings, this delicate veining, the perfect
outlines and lovely blended colors are not
printed into the groundwork of the fabric but
INTO the threads before they are woven. and
| that the least error in forming the bud. in
| shading the leaf would spoil the design. the
perfection to which the mechanism has been
brought. renders it more Of marvel than
hand-painting upon the fabric These silks
are beautiful, forever, no matter what the
fashion or what its changes. Among the
novelties for aesthetic customers are the ..sun-
flower dresses" These are of soft. rich
texture, and dark as well as light tones The
sunfowers are embroidered upon them in
shades of yellow and brown, the perfect disk
being of course in shades of yellow most
beautifully wrought the centers in shades of
brown. The flowers do not cover the sur
| face, nor are they put in at regular intervals.
| They are dropped here and there, and are
sometimes half concealed by the folds of the
drapery; one on the point of the tablier one
half hidden in the drapery, one (of smaller
| size at the left of the bodice, and one upon
| the right shoulder but none upon the sleeves
Only the colOrs, brown and gold, appear in
the sleeves, which should be composed of
one or more pufIs and straight bands termi-
mating in deep cuff. Doubtless, the idea
will not be confined to sunAowers, but express
itself in lilies and roses, in tulips and daffo-
dils-in all the flowers, indeed, which are
popularity used for establishment; but
it is the sunfower which appears first,
and has given its name to the de-
sign, and it is the suniower which will
he reproduced in greatest variety
upon the lighter fabrics, the linens, the pom
| gees, the barege. and the nuns yelling. which
follow suit to the happy thought that finds its
! first opportunity in the more expensive and
exclusive fabrics. 1t was last year that lace
effects upon the plain surface of rich self
| colored satins and velvets were first exhibited,
anu tnouEu tItlt tbst pltNtHttu HUN
| being popular they were certainly suggestive.
| The idea they conveyed has been eagerly
taken up by manufacturers, and applied in
| many different ways to cotton, wool and silk
! en- fabrics. The lace effects upon cotton sat
| inc have been already alluded to. But there
| are some lovely soft silks. with lace patterns
| woven in them in all-silk so closely, that the
! reverse side seems to be composed of the
| tints of the pattern only, which goes quite
through the fabric and forms part of it.
! The richness and beauty of these designs,
| which reproduce Spanish point, the old Breton
! lace now being revived Honton, and Others
OF the famous old and modern laces. make
! the fabric costly and As it is elegant. rather
| than snowy. it will not become common. A
more popular fabric will be found in the wool
Spanish lace" This is fine all-wool stuff
woven in Spanish lace patterns, and in
/ tended for the upper part of dresses, for polo
| naiscs and many of the purposes for which
! Spanish lace is used. 1t is in black or cream
| white. and quite rs effective as the ordinary
! SpaDish lace while il is, of course. cheaper
| and much more durable.
Cottons have become very handsome in
! texture and design that they are competing
! successfully with richer fabrics, aud particu-
| larl, with foulard and soft twilled silks. Sat
| ines at less than half the price cannot be dis
! tinguished from the foulardS whlch tnev copy
| in figure and design, and are particularly we'll
! adapted To the country and for morning walk
inv wear Some of the borders to the
! new thin percaies and camhrics are
beautifully shaded in green's and browns:
with delicate foliage. leaves and
grasses. which form a sort Of dado to the
pre,ty design of the fabric. Others make
little field. starred with buttercurs and daisies
the flowers reappearing in the border part OF
the material. but small and daintily shaped
( Figured satines are accompanied by plain
material of the ground color for the skirts.
! but the small figured cambrics and lawns are
| made up into simple pretty costumes ana
dresses all of kind, the border OF these Is
ON, forming the narrow founces round the
bottom of the skirt and upon its front, while
the same bordering is put on Hat upon the
! overskirt or polonaise.
THE RAGE FOR EMBROIDERY.
A now IMPULSE seems to have been given
IN the taste which has already been formed
and greatly stimulated during the past few
v,ars for embroidery as trimming. Doubt
! less the power of executing the work upon al
! fahrics bv machine and with such rapidity as
m reduce the cost to one fourth, and mus
hr;ng this coveted method of garnishinR
-;,bir the reach of moderate purses, has nat