The Portland daily press., 1882-05-12
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Guimpe dresses are revived for little girls OF
two years of age and upward. These dresses
may have separate guimpe Tor belted waist OF
muslin), with the low-necked full dress put on
over it, or else there may be yoke and sleeves
If white muslin and embroidery, with the full
dress sewed to these permanently, and produc-
ing precisely the same effect as that of the sep
arate garments. The dress all in one piece is
best for very active little girls. who would BIO
apt to drop the low neck and short sleeve off
the shoulder, but there is an effort being made
to revive for the Summer the fashion of leay-
ing the neck and arms of these little folks
bare; hence many mothers prefer the separate
dress and under-waist of guimpe, as these may
be worn either way. For the present Spring
season the quaintest little old-fashioned Dutch
dresses of cashmere are made with a full low
square-necked belted waist pulled short
sleeves, and full gathered skirt of width and
half of cashmere simply hemmed, and per-
haps two or three tucks above the hem. Some
times this baby waist has no sleeves, but mere
ly a strap across the shoulders, and sometimes
it has very short high puff sleeve; the neck is
usually bound narrowly and there are two
rows of shirring below the binding. In some
such dresses this stirring is repeated at the
waist, in others there is an inch.wide belt
stitched ON all around, and still more preya-
lent fashion has the belt or shirring only III
front, with sash beginning in the under-arm
seam and tied behind in a large bow; this sash
is of the cashmere, two-eighths of yard wide,
hemmed all around. Another similar dress
has the full front shirred at the neck only,
falling straight thence to the end of the skirt,
while the back is gathered in at the waist line
and has the cashmere sash just mentioned. ALI
these styles, it will be SEEM initiate the dresses
worn by German peasant children, and are
made of deep blue or violet plum-colored cash
mere, or else sky-blue or rose Sometimes a
row of white Hamburg open embroidery edges
| the neck, sleeves, and the ends Of the sash of
the cashmere dresses, but this is more apprc-
pirate on the baby waists of the colored per-
| Gales and mulls with figures in them now used
| for the same purpose, such as the blue or pink
| percales with birds or roses all over them, or
cream white mnlls with great mammoth pan
| sies or else plain colored lawns, ginghams or
| Chamberys are used in navy blue, or raspberry
| pink, or perhaps Turkey red calico. The square
| low neck seems to be preferred for all these
| dresses.
Box-pleated dresses are made up in similar
| fashions, and are preferred for plump children,
| who would lock too stout in the gathered dress
| es. These pleated dresses have waist and skirt
| in one, with three box pleatS the emil length
| of the back and front, finished at the foot by
| two gathered rufles of the bingham, or else Of
| white embroidery. The two outside box pleats
back and front pass over the shoulders, form
| ing the strap which is the only sleeve, and the
| dress is fastened behind by false flap under
| the middle pleat There may be rows of Rus
sian lace or embroidery across the front be-
| tween the outside pleats. The light blue ging-
| ham is very pretty for such dresses The
| guimpe is of tucked white muslin, or else has
| tucked or embroidered yoke and sleeves, while
the lower part of the waist is plain muslin pass
ing dov9 to the hips, with a drawing string or
belt at the waist line; If belt is used, it should
be stitched on the outside, so that when the
| child grows the waist can be heightened by
| placing 1t lower.
All these styles, with many others besides,
| are made up with q hieh-necked woke and long
sleeves of white embroidery and muslin sewed
| permanently into the square neck of colored
| dresses, thus giving the effect of guimpe and
| separate dress. Sometimes Mother Hubbard
| effect is given bJ putting clusters of shirring
| in the front and back of these dresses; for in
stance, there are two punches of shirring just
| below the yoke, and two similar clusters at the
waist line of little dresses that have the waist
| and skirt in one. Deep Jokes of white Ham,
burg embroidery that have the lower edges
| scalloped are pretty for pink and baby blue
| gingham dresses. A gathered bias frill is
| sewed to the edge of the dress skirt, and an
| embroidered edging is sewed upon it. The frill
| at the neck OF Jokes should be turned down
| and bound at the top to prevent the scalloped
| edges pricking the child's tender skin. The
| white sleeves represent guimpe sleeves, and
are slightly full, with little band to hold the
| gathers at the wrist, on which are two rows of
| edging with their straight sides stitched to-
| gether.
While colored dresses are preferred for the
| morning and for the country, white dresses are
| still chosen for the best. These have the full
| gathered skirt, nearly covered with embroid-
| cry, being made of founce of Irish point en-
| broidery or the open worked Hamburg, or else
| the more serviceable close patterns. There are
only two or three inches of the plain muslin at
| the top, just enough to gather cell to the belt
| of insertion which is stitched on low-necked
| baby waist of muslin that has pulled sleeves
high on the shoulders, giving square effect.
| The sleeves are tied with ribbons, and there is
| sash, narrower than those lately worn, tied
| around the waist. There are also high-necked
white lawn and pique dresses made to give the
| appearance of low waist by being trimmed
| with a turned-down embroidered frill low
around the neck and shoulders, and having
| caps of embroidery. representing short sleeves
sewed in the armholeS above full gathered long
sleeves of the muslin. These dresses have five
narrow box pleats from the high neck down
| the back and front below the hips, where
sort of panier frill is added, deeper and fuller
than the frill outlining the low neck, and be-
| low this the skirt is laid in kilt plaits. On
| pique dresses mock basque is sewed on the
| hips instead of frill A cravat bow of four
| loops and ends is set trife to the left in the
| full ruches of embroidery and lace seen on the
necks of little girls white dresses. Tiny little
girls of two years wear their skirts almost to
their ankles, while larger girls wear them
| shorter, but always reaching well below the
knees.