Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1882-09-05
SACRAMENTO TUESDAY MORNING. SEPTEMBER s. 1882.
DUB FASHIONS.
WHAT TIE LADIES MUST WEAR OR
BE IN DISGRACE.
Wraps Dresses - Trimmings - Morning
Weay-Visiting Costumes
gats-Etc
New York Times

| New York Times
Rich Ottoman velvets are to be among
| favored autumn fabrics. The shade called
aventurine is likely to be preferred. 1t
is gilded hue of brown, and has the ad-
vantage of blending well with ecru and
Irvine lace. By means of these combina-
| tons the dress is suitable for the present
season and also for the autumn. A sum
mer dress consists of a habit and unique
OF Ottoman velvet, with 4 twine- colored
surah skirt trimmed with lace Of similar
| hue. For autumn wear the skirt is in the
color of the velvet. 1t is in deep plaits
and bordered with deep chicoree trim
ming and bands of velvet in the same
shade. There are also suits of brocatelle
| and OF damask, with medium sized de-
signs in satin on faiile ground. Fer very
dressy purposes mOlres damasks are very
handsome, with designs of bur ches of
roses or floral branches on grounds
of MORE antique. The richest among
these toilets are il cream and corn
color, ivory. and blue and pink, with
punches of flowers in two shades of satin
| broche on the MORE ground. For half
mourning wear, grayish damssk may be
employed in different ways. The skirt or
| front of the skirt only may be of this
! damask under an open unique of black
cachemire de PInde or black satin. The
garment may be cut IL Montespau polo
uaise or in polonaise with panniers. The
round damask skirt has deep double faced
| 2hicoree trimming, with one side of black
satin and the other of plain or glazed silver
gray satin. There are but few new fabrics
az yet to be seen; the whole novelty is
obtained by the varied combination of ma
! terial and trimming. Lawn dresses, for
instance, are always of the same texture,
but they are now made as never before.
! The same rule is applicable to all fabrics
and trimmings, the whole novelty consist.
| ing IN the manner In which they are en-
| ployed; hence plaid, striped aud pompa-
dour goods can always be utilized in new
ways. Among the fabrics intended for
autumn wear are plain and striped Sell
ienue, in such combinations as green,
with wood. coIored and green stripes,
trimmed with bows in the same
collar. Wooden and silk plaids are also to
be used. The goods are generally cut bias
1t makes particularly pretty children's
suits, and is better suited to the purpose
than broche goods The cuffs for these
costumes are of black or colored velvet
In the latter case ruby or green is pre-
ferred. There are many ways of draping
plaid skirts. One of the best is to make
the skirt with large hollow plaits and
place between each of these flat plaits cut
of straight goods. This has an odd and
striking etfec5, as each time the bias plants
open the straight ones are seen. When
plaid goods is pulled the effect is rather
common, but whichever way it is plated it
is always pretty. Waists for these dresses
are always plain. If the wearer has a
slight figure, the jacket may be trimmed
with brsndebourgs cut in various ways !;
but for stout figures there is but one be.
coming way to make these waists-with a
rounded basque in front, and large, hollow
plaits in the back They have small, fiat
buttons, and a collar similar to mans
coat collar. This opens to show a fiat era
vat. Moss color, when used with the
warm gray OF hemp lace, is most becom-
ing combination for suit. Russia leather
shade is darker and more appropriate for
| brunettes than moss color When the sea-
son advances these dresses will be most
/ serviceable of surah glace in two shades,
| one very dark and the other light, in COM
| binations of Russia leather with 90 bale de
| roses" navy blue with dark wood color,
! and tobacco with wood color. For blondes
| all shades of moss and bronze are used
| with blue and "cspucine." Foulards in
large design are worn with lace sacques or
4 with kid cuirasses. Dresses for young
| ladies are of cream colored gauze canvas,
/ elegantly draped and trimmed with lace
! aud cream. colored satin ribbon loops.
| Kid waists are very becoming 10 Young
/ girls. Pale amber-colored cloth dresses
are the style at the seaside. They are
I IL Il
| and unique raised on one side. Iae
! Etiquette autrichienne" is very high in
/ the neck, perfectly plain and tight-fttipg
| and fastened all the way down by small
! silver ornaments. The straw hat worn
4 with these suits is in the same color, with
| plume falling over the hair, and bird,
| with collar of Rhine pebbles. Dresses
| for morning wear have small linen officers
i collars, while the jackets and waists have
similar ones to form double collars. For
demi. toilets, waists open in heart shape to
j show q fichu or guimpe vest of ecru lawn.
| IL may be in either of the three shades
gold, Irvine, or hemp. Large white fichus
are reserved for young girls, and large
guipure collars for children. Collars of
this shape are worn by women at the sea-
side, but are of gray lawn. All suits
trimmed with Irvine lace may have gray
| Mazarin collar, trimmed with Irvine lace,
or as L. valiiere pelerine. Black lace man
ties are used by elderly ladies' Stockings
are made for wear with dresses trimmed
with Irvine lace of an article matching the
lace.
Every woman of fashion has a complete
collection of sacques. Some are OF painted
linen or silk, or of stamped foulard and
taffietas. Others are of Indian silk, with
Persian cachemire designs, trimmed with
reddish Spanish lace. The velvet casa.
quins in ruby, wine color, and navy blue
now worn over batiste and muslin dresses
will continue in use during the winter.
The {" alois waist of ruby colorcd velvet
or satin is very pretty. On the border of
the basque is a very narrow ''Valois u
putting. The front opens in a sharp point
to show underneath a vest Of cream and
ruby. colored broche goods. 1t is sur.
rounded by drapery made of three plaits.
The vest has very high, straight collar,
with ruching on the inside On the
shoulder of the sleeves is a leg. of-mutton
putting, and below are fine shirrs, which
reach to the elbow. In the back of the
basque, falling over the point, is she'll
shaped position.
A visiting dress may be OF black satin
merveilleux and black lace. The satin
skirt has on the lower part double ruch,
ing of the same article. The apron is GOV.
cred with eight rows of black flounces. In
the back is piece of goods draped in waves.
The satin habit waist is pointed in front and
buttons straight down the center. The
small side piece is cut up and joined to the
side piece of the back, and forms with the
back a square habit end. This opens in
the center. Around the basque is a row
of jet trimmings in the shape of medallions
On the ends of the basque are four rows Of
this trimming. In the neck is a small,
| straight collar. The Marquise sleeves are
trimmed with two rows of jet medallions.
The manila.straw hat worn with this toilet
has broad brim raised in front and lined
with dark. green velvet. Around the crown
is a plume in the color of the straw,
Over the starting point of the feather,
on the left side near the back, is large
bunch OF tea roses. Another suit Of
earnet-colored satin trimmed with
Irvine embroidery has garnet-colored
silk skirt with the whole front covered
with an embroidered apron. On the lower
part of the skirt is a deep box. plated