Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1882-09-01
AUTUMN FASHIONS.
WHAT WILL BE WORN THE
COMING SEASON.
New and Costly FabrIcs-A Farewell
90 Plush and False Hair.

NEW YORK, August 31.-Do the readers Of
fashion letters ever stop to think how mis-
leading they are and how they misrepresent
the majority Of women? Do they keep in
their minds as they read the descriptions
of fine dresses, of flmy lace drapery, of
richly wrought ornsmentation, the very
small number out of the whole to whom
these refer, while the great majority wear
all their lives the sad garment of necessity?
For one, 1 feel when I am writing of fash
ions in which only one woman in hundred
can feel a personal interest, that am doing
bitter injustice to the other ninety and nire,
part OF whom deprecate their influence
while the rest spend their lives in calico, and
consider alpaca In the light of an inspiration.
why do fashion writer's devote themselves
exclusively to the record of gorgeous toi-
lets, oftentimes evolved out of their innsr
consciousness doubtless, when so many
women would be glad to know how to make
their prints and simple woolens up with
taste ~ asks the working mother of family
at the West. But in very truth there is no
necessity for deVoting successive columns
to the description of the making of prints
and woolens, for the former are subject to
such limitations as quickly disposes Of
them, and paper patterns are cheap and
plenty. The only unlimited field is supplied
by the imagination, and the story of the
extravaganza OF women is always interest
ing to male readers, even though they be
living off some woman's earnings. This
thought may not be very apropos, but #
was suggested by the brilliant display Of
samples" in the sanctum of a buyer for
famous New York house.
eyes," he replied, in answer to a remark,
Ladies Will have magnificent materials to
choose from when they get back from Sara
togs and Newport. In twenty-five years l
have not seen anything in the way of design
like the manufactures of the present sea-
son. Look at this, now' 1t was a velvet
broche upon rose pink surah ground. The
clustering leaves and tendrils of the pattern
were In dark wine color, and lay In shadows
which lfghtened as they approached long,
full blown flower. Half of this was in
shadow, half in light, which csme from
beneath, while the dark side was touched
by spots of electric light producing won
derful effect, at once Illuminating and
skeletOnizlug the object as If an electric arc
had really struck down upon it.
"Artistic?' repeated the buyer: "I should
say so. 1t will require an artist to make
them up. Here is one that is fit to put uu-
der frame" 1t was piece Of satin
broche with ostrich feathers in pale yellow
thrown upon a tinted ground, the stems
catching dropped rosebud and piece of
curling and twisted smilaX, while in care
less proximity lay lovely bouquet, con-
s!sting principally of q large, exuuisiteIy
shaded rose and few vivid leaves. What
bewildering composition for a design TO
be woven into dress fabric It
might have been copied from q
iady's dressing table without the change
OF single detail. "Cost2 Oh, well. don't
you know such stuffs as these are not
used for entire dresses, but for trains, the
front of the skirt and watteau back-be-
sides, growth of the age must keep getting
something fner.''
MAGNIFICENT OPPORTUNITIES.
There is no doubt in regard to the op-
portunities for magnificence OF those who
possess the inclination, and the means TO
pay for 1t; and 1t is perhaps as praiseworthy
to clothe the human form divine with beauty
as to expend 1t upon wall paper or a race
horse. The new designs are all in broche
patterns, but they are not all expensive or
SNOWY. There are broche patterns upon
wool that are scarcely distinguishable from
the self-colOred ground, and indeed, though
there are individual examples of rich shading
and striking combinations, yet the general
effect of the modes for the coming season
will be plain, dark and self-colored.
The richest and most novel effects in dav
costume will come from the new applica-
tion of leather and gold embroidery. Leather
as applied to the ornamentation of dresses
and jackets Is not quite new, but it is the
first time 1t has appeared in popular form,
that is to say, upon costumes that can be
purchased outside OF Paris at price (un-
made) perhaps something under $50. The
leather is cut out in designs and applied with
embroidery silk In firm and effective stitch to
the cloth; the outlines being further empha-
sized and enriched by bead work, gold upon
bronze and brown; bottle-green upon myr-
tie; electric blue upon cadet blue, and the
like. Applied ornsmentstion is not re
stricted to leather. There are appliuues of
plush, plain and embossed; appiques of
velvet, plain and broche; all outlined and
varied by many different kinds of raised
work In braiding and embroidery. This
decoration in relief is used largely for tab
liers on the front breadths of walking skirts,
which are otherwise plain. The principal
part Of the oTnamentatiOn is placed upon the
front OF the dress, the back being draped or
plated and the jacket bordered or finished
to correspond WITH the skirt.
THE REVIVAL OF soUTACHE.
There is a sudden revival, one might al
most call it an uphesval, of soutache
(traided) embroidery. It is also used in
pyramidaI forms, as It was forty years ago.
but it is made still more effective by form
ing a part OF the pattern of the narrow
military braids, set upon edge-in what
would be called in metal the sknife blade''
pattern. Besides the pyramid designs for
the front of skirts, brsidiDg is used in ara
besque and other designs for costumes, and
specially for jackets, which will be a feature
of fall costumes. The soutached Jacket is
not very loDg, and exceedingly iaunty. It
is held to be in its most suitable relation to
exterior objects, when it is placed in con-
junction with a walking skirt of large
plaided Scotch wool, the dark wine color or
green ground, checked in shades of brown,
green and yellow. The skirt is not flounced,
but the front is bias, and the slight drspery
to which the most careless effect is i'm
parted, but which is firmly held at the sides.
is also laid on the bias. These costumes are
exceedingly youthful, and their effect Is en-
hanced by Scotch cap with cocks plume.
More quaint, sober and altogether digni-
fed are the long redingotes of dark green
soft brown cloth, braided down the sides
ing to disclose the braided front of the walk
ing skirt. These are handsome and have a
picturesque effect, though not necessarily
expensive. In fact, any lady who is expert
with her needle, could have a complete suit
stamped and then braid it for herself.
CASHMERE ROBES.
The beautiful open embroidery upon the
material which machinery has placed with
In the reach Of almost every one, aud which
last summer gave the requisite touch to
those hitherto difficult materials, nuns veil
ing and the charscterless (when plaiD) pom
gee, reappears upon. cashmere, fine camel's
hair, carmelite.cloth, and many others soft
plain wooden fabrics. The colors are dark
and the "clOth" shades maintain their su
premacy. The embroidery is executed upon
the houncing, and In narrower strips for
basques and paniers. A complete dress Of
embroidered cashmere, with bonnet and
feathers matching in c0ors. is eXtrt mely
elegant and very useful and suitable for early
autumn walking or visiting dress.
The cashmere morning robes are another
of the revivals and will remind many elderly
ladies OF the days when they were on the
threshold rather than nearing the back door
of active life. They do not yet signal the
return of the Aounced and embroidered un-
derskirt, for they close down the front: but
they are cut straight and bordered with
cashmere bands with braiding or with en-
broldery.
GOOD BYE COMBINATIONS.
Combination costumes have been drag
ging out an existence which was not sane
TONED by high fashion for over a year past.