Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-09-02
FASHION WRINKLES.

on one side and corded like siclenne on the
other.
PEPPER-AND-saLT mixtures. notified cloths.
and underlined stripes and plaids are the rule
In the new wOOllens for travelling dresses.
RIFLE-GREEx of the darkest shade is at pres
emf the fashionable Paris color for trimming
hats and for the many flowing bows that form
the garniture of summer dresses.
GARNET JEwELRY Is gradually creeping back
into fashion again, and the price of the stones
has advanced.
BRIDESMAIDS that are to be this fall are re-
minded that the very latest London fashion is
for short dresses.
BYRON COLLARS of fine needlework done on
linen cambria, with square turned over cuffs to
match, are among the fine lingerie brought
home by ladies' who have done their summer
shopping in Paris.
A WITTY COMMUNICATION upon the present
styles says that there Is but little difference
between the picture of a medieval saint and a
modern fashionable sinner.
SPITE OF OPPOSITION, children's dresses are
still preferred made in the princesse style The
shape, however, is much concealed by its
numerous draplngs In the form of paniers SASH
am other trimmings.
NARROW braid, in silver or god is much used
for trimming cloth dresses ola monochrome
Color. Ever so little of this garnture goes a
great way In effect. An unsparing use of it is
gaudy in the extreme.
NEW striped silken fabrics for combination
dresses for the early autumn days have wide
Stripes of uncut velvet alternating with stripes
of plush of the same width. These will be used
for the cOrsage and the stripe will enhance the
slender. long WASTED effect now in vogue. The
front of the skirt will be made of plain plush,
and the padded paniers and back drapery will
be of the striped goods.
A NEW and extremely beautiful shade of
golden brown promises to eclipse all other cOlOrs
In popular favor for autumn dinner or carriage
Costumes. In combination dresses of satin and
velvet. this color i'm its most golden hue for the
satin fabric and deeper shade for the velvet,
fOT!Is most ladylike and effective toilet either
for the street or the drawing-roOm.
FICELLE LACE STRINGS are new on autumn
hats. Another caprice has velvet ribbon for one
string. with bow under the chin that seems to
hold a trailing spray of flowers that falls from
the opposite side TO form the other string. The
Eimrod hat is a new shape, with its turned
down front covered with tiny birds that look as
If they had just been killed From the summit
OF the crown loops of velvet ribbon drOOp down
to the edge of the brm.
SOME OF the new autumn walking costumes of
tweed are decidedly masculine in STYLE show
In; a white under-waistceat, cutaway coat fast
ened Just below the chest with one button a
Standing collar with round gold coar-button
and linen cuffs held together by large gold links
or huge cuff-buttOns, and browning all, q jaunty
English. low-crOwned derby hat devoid of trim
ming of any sort. Many English girls go a step
further than the Yankee girl dares to, and carry
slender ebony cane.
GLOVES are as long as ever. and the tan-col-
ored variety are still worn with full evening
dress This odd fashion is far from the purest
or best taste, but nevertheless it is In the height
OF style, and we are aware what violent obec-
lions and fierce criticisms may be Overruled by
this magical assurance. Critically. however,
these gloves, dark and ugly in shade and look
Ing especially so when worn in conjunction with
pure white and other delicate evening toilets,
are really neither appropriate, becoming, nor
pretty.
The RUSSIAN PELIssE is a long. close, plain
garment brought out for wrap for the inter-
mediate season. 1t is shaped like tight redin-
cote, has but few seams. and all its fuilness Is
masSed in pleats in the middle seam of the back.
1t covers the figure from neck to foot, and may
be buttOned down the entire single-breasted
front. or 1t may fly open below the waist in
front 1t is made of dark cashmere camel's
hair, or diagonal wool goods; is lined through
out with surah for the fall, or plush or wadded
BLK for winter and is bOrdered all around with
o great ruehe of the material, else it is Orna-
mented with the sOutache embroidery that
Vi
winter.
The new shade Of royal cardinal is now greatly
used in combination with amber, gray, dark
blue, brown, laurel green, and black. charm
Ing dress Of dark blue serge. made for seaside
wear. Is arranged with double bOX-plats from
the waist. These are left loose a few inches from
the bottom. forming a f1Ounce, which falls Oyera
narrow killing of red serge. The bodice is
shirred, and worn with a belt around the waist;
and there are knots of narrow, red ribbon at the
throat and upon the sleeves a bunch of wider
loops catching up the somewhat buffant pam
niers at each side. Another dress of fine gray
linen has bOx-plaits at the whole length of the
skirt, the hOllows being of red linen. square
plastron, very full. is let into the bodice; this
also being of the brighter color. A bobad gray
sash piped with red Grapes the hips.
FANCY FEATHERS from birds other than os-
triches are also coming more greatly into fash
Ion, as well as the birds themselves, and the
Indications are that during the tall and winter
birds heads, birds breasts or wings and some
times whole birds with the claws guilt, will be
the rage. Pheasants breasts and wings sell
well, and there is also great demand for Span
ish cock feathers. The breast and sometimes
the wings of these birds are used and make
very handsome and expensive trimmings. Rus
Elan hackles, feathers taken from Russian cocks
are also In demand and are of bright yellow
Color They are very dear, and with the head
ami breast of another bird they ale punched
after the manner Of peacOck's TAIL and form
handsome trimming. Cock turbans. jetted and
pheasant turbans with Russian hackles are i'm
fashion. Another style is q mixture Of para
disc. pheasant and imphean, which colOrs form
Q beautiful contrast. and are very expensive
Birds of all kinds but principally those OF
striking plumage. are In demand. Another
style of trimming on beaver or black hats is a
bunch of fine ByOe natural tips and q large Byoc
plume.
THE NEW CHEvIOTs have outline designs
woven in the faded tapestry colors, and there
are many notified surfaces showing q perfect
meange Of colOrs while others have distinct
shade for the ground. and fine specks Of single
contrasting color strewn about in what Is called
'.pepper-and-salt' pattern. The sOutache de-
Signs are woven in others, and there are bold
stripes like those Of last season. with some
large plaids Of dull colOrs that appear to be
bias across the breadth. There is a French
fashion that promises to be popular OF wearing
jacket OF cloth nearly covered with sOutache
embroidery. with plaid skirt of cheviOt or
other wool. This jacket need not match the
SKIRT. but 1t Is often made of the same color as
that most conspicuous In the plaid of the skirt
Electric blue, terra-cOtta and rifle green Jackets
with black s0utache work are those most largely