The examiner., 1882-02-18
LADIES' DEPARTMENT.


 new goods displayed on the counters of retail stores. The zephyr cloths, as scotch glnghams are now called, are tne first washing goods shown, as these have become a staple fabric, and are already being bought by ladies who prepare their dresses in advance of the season. Even stripes, small checks and irregular plaids are the patterns in these' and the colors are clear blue with white, or else two shades of blue dark garnet, brown, green, O i've and black with white. The bordered ard handkerchief designs are not shown, the preference being for half inch stripes and inconspicuous plalds. The garnet ginghams are in better shades than those introduced last year, and arc especially pretty in checks alternating with dark blue. Plain colors are shown to acc 1mpany the different patterns, but the experi- ence of last summer suggests entire dresses of one design instead of combi- nations. The clean blue ginghams striped with white. or else in bars, will remain in favor, as they wash we'll and are becoming to old and young, blondes and brunettes, alike. Ths darker blue, with cheeks of different shade of blue, are serviceable because not easily soiled. Ladies who are making these dresses during the leisure of the winter prefer the simple designs that were in favor last year to any novelties shown in the fashion plates. The round lower skirt is made to escape the ground, and is trimmed with one wide or two narrower gathered founces, cut straight across the cloth, hemmed on each edge, and if ornament is desired. finished with open Hamburg embroidery that is all white, or may have the color of the giugham introduced. The round long overskirt is edged with the embroidery put on straight-not rufHed-and is caught up very high on each hip, and once in the middle of the back. The waist is 8 very plain round basque, not lined, with belt of the same, Byron collar, two ruffles on each sleeve turned toward the wrists, and the edging of embroidery; or else the box-plaited hunting jacket is used with single breasted fronts having two box plaits, while the back has but one. The plain basque is moro generally becoming than the box-plaited jacket, and wa hes better. Rows of small tucks like plaits down each front and down the middle of the back are also liked, but these are open to objection as being difficult to iron we'll.
 New soft-6nished percales are shown in the stylish light pore elain blue with dots, soarfs, bars and lines of white These are use for shirtings as we'll as for l1dies' dresses. Other percales more especially intended for shirting, havA W li'e grounds with small stripes pr fi9ures in bright red, b.o vp, blue or black.
 Tho first wool goods shown are for spring. These ara so loo,el! woven that they are not heavier than al ordinary bunting, yet the broa lt' threads used spreal out and prev, nl them from having the sleazy appearance of buntings. Some of these are in solid colors, such as olive, grayish- blue, sea brown, mustard, etc., while others are mixtures of colors such as are seen in the English homespuns, illuminated with threads of red and orange. They are said to be pure wool, are double fold, and are sold for sixty cents yard.
 French cashmeres will be largely in plain colors, both of light and dark shades, and also with polka dots of white or of lighter shade than or else in contrast with it. A novelty in such stuffs, introduced dur ing the winter by the fashionable mo- distes, will be found in the spring goods in largo moon-like spots instead of small polka dots, wrought or bro- caded on the fabric not printed there, es such designs usually are. These moons are from two to three inches ;n diameter, are plaoed far apart, and though in contrasting color to the ground of the goods they are so large that they are always of very dark and inconspicuous coloring. Thus seal brown has navy-blue spots that are almost black, and dark-green grounds have maroon moons. These stuffs are more loosely woven than cashmeres, and have woody nap like that of cam els hair. Dress fannels for travelling and mountain suits are also exhibited in nicer qualities among new goods. These have the smooth finish of lady's cloth without it's weight, are double W dth and cost $1.50 yard.
 Fnshlon Notes.
 Flower fans are 8 novelty.
 Side draperies, long and flat, are re-