Morning journal and courier., 1882-12-28
Fashions for NIidwinter.

As the season advances one looks in vain for an article of dress which can be called
 quite new. Novelty is not the characteristic feature of the present fashions, but dress
 makers succeed in making some amends for
 the lack of it by great variety of combina tions in material and trimming. new way of draping ''crepe de Chine" over an otto man velvet skirt is to have two crape scarfs shirred very closely from under the point of the waist, taken over the hips in lambrequin style, and then drawn through g rich ring of passementerie. which is either on the point of the waist on 6 square basque. The passementerie applique work consists of two large rings placed one upon the other, with the ends of the scarfs crossed through the first to form double loops These loops are lined, and then the scarfs taken to the front, where they form Vshaped trimming over the centre of the apron, and are fastened by large metal buckle. The ends of the scarf are taken back a second time and drawn through the second ring, where they form Q butterfly bow smaller than the first one The ends then fall straight and are trimmed with chenille fringe. This is a very l light and pretty way of draping. Light silk skirts have overdresses of plush or velvet in dark shades, cut out the lower part in | squares and bordered either with fringe or [ with silk lace. The lace is either ivory white or in the color of the skirt. Tho overskirt ! is open in the back to show the outings on | the train. pleasing effect is obtained by
 
 ] light colored silks. Velvet pointed waists l are much worn in the evening. The long ! point is either fringed on the sides there | is only a point in front, while the back forms ! & long narrow basque. This basque general l ly matches the panel trimmings in front of ! the dress A toilet in this style, intended for l wear at the Court of Vienna, consict If a ] habit aad panel trimlninps of nnis v. ff.1s- ' rics, with medallions on a sea green ground l ing. The satin skirt is ''chair de nymphe'' 1 color. The front of the skirt forms pink 1 putting with brocaded panels taken over the puffs, leaving them full in between, Tho i. light sea green short satir. train has loops, | short rounded ends and rosettes all over the | back, combined with ends of sna green vel I vet Pointed basques are nearly always bor deresl either with -elvet outings, colored l blonde, white lace chenille fringe, or, with 1 what is still better, dropping ornaments of ifsassa.,,anteria, heads CT aaGains
 | With the fabrics now in use, long trains are particularly graceful. The tissues fall in | soft full plait3 without any of the stiff effect :; of former trains. Lace dresses are pretty ] with the ronnd skirt showing the foot, thus | retaining all the grace of a short skirt. In ] the back is long velvet satin train form 1 ing a court mantle. Oriental embroideries
 are much employed for evening dresses. A | quantity of soutache embroidery is done on : cloth. with gold and silver intermixed. The l work is in the color of the cloth. Odd em- ! broidery is thus made, as, instead oe follow ing the outline or the Work, the whole flow l CTS CT leaves are covered by working the
 soutache in a close zigzag to form full de- 1 sign. This is very elegant, although simple
 in appearance. myrtle colored jacket l trimmed after this fashion is bordered with a 1 double row or narrow strips of goods placed
 on with the second row in between the space
 left by the first In the back is a large de
 sign of the embroidery described above.
 The same work is on the plastron, cufty; oo&~
 lar, and strips of goods. These jacssts '.re { also of putty colored cloth for theftre wear.
 They are trimmed with brown gafoon, shot
 with gold or silver. They are s,so of cream
 colored cloth, with uacharair0 galloon trim
 ming.
 For Parisian receptieas ladies now wear
 very short ribbed vaIvst or plush coats, with
 the small basque oves the hips with a triple
 fringed chicorss, trip.ming ornamented at in
 tervals with small .silded flies. The nous
 quetaire collar 4 cuffs trimmed to
 match. Fron. dresses for rich toilets
 are of plash in >.ld tints, with designs of
 very large flower. with bright-colored petals
 Many natural an lrtificial flowers are used
 ersd with thera. One of the latter is worthy al of mention. The whole d-ess is of brocade
 The apsa.l is cut in squares and falls over a