The Portland daily press., 1882-04-20
New York Fashions.
[Harner's Bazaar

Harper D ioaLa1.J
Silk and wool costumes with embroidery and
velvet garniture are the staple suits displayed
at the openings at the large furnishing houses"
The new blue shade which is best known as
porcelain blue is the color that probably hnos
most favor, as it is produced in all the stylish
fabrics 1t is shown among the imported dress
es in gros grain for the box-pleated puffs of q
skirt with dove gray cashmere for the Trianon
polonaise, and gray OPEN worked embroidery
for the trimming. 1t is also shown in cloth
dresses of every quality, beginning with those
made in Paris, and deliberately ornamented
with black brandebourgs and braid on the
skirt as well as on the hair, or of the cloth-fin-
ished fiannels that are neatly made and sold
for S25. These suits at medium prices are the
most satisfactory of all ready-made dresses, be-
cause they are of simple styles, with most OF
the outlay for their pure wool material The
round skirt is partly laid in deep pleats, and is
plain like a kilt in front, with row of buttons
and mock button-holes down one side, and
draped apron oyerskirt permanently attached
at the belt The basque has single-breasted
or else diagonal front, with Byron collar,
square cuffs and box-pleated backs. Black,
brown, deep green, and cadet gray fannels and
cashmere suits are similarly made.
More expensive than these are the cashmere
and French buntings with self-embroidery, or
else wrought In white or in contrasting color
Only enough embroidery is used about the
neck, sleeves, and across the tablier or paniers
to give character to these dresses and the edges
of the basque, as also of the gathered LOUNGES
of the wool goods, are cut in the narrow
scallops or leaf points that are so often seen on
Worth's handsomest dresses. These points
may be lined with gay color to brighten dark
dresses, as one of the prettiest black wool
dresses shown had geranium red Surah facings
and another of leaf brown had ecru Surah.
1t is the caprice of merchants, this season to
call all soft wool stuffs nuns yelling; but that
is very expensive fabric-known by its inch
wide selvedges-and ladies who have little
money to spend will content themselves with
their all-wool buntings that are now sold with
embroidered edges for $22 to $25. There are
also domestic thin woolens for $l5 to Sl7, sold
in dress patterns of nine yards of double width,
with nine yards of embroidery The rival
trimmings for this lOw-priced embroidery on
| plain dresses are many rows OF soutache or OF
the wider tubular braids, and the lined scallops
| described above.
White wool dresses are imported with open
embroidery of white silk, and are trimmed
with bronze green, blue or copper red velvet
about the neck and waist. The skirt is laid in
the vide embroidered selvedge trims these
pleats. Small balls'of white wool fall from
other pleatiDgs; the basque opens over vest
fastened by gilt buttons, and there are straps
of the velvet instead of a cravat bow, with
wider sash and bow of velvet. Chuddah cloth
and twilled woods are used for sea-side dresses
of this kind.
The revival of colored faille as well as black
is an accomplished fact as this finely repped
silk is even more used than satin Surah in the
combination dresses brought over from Paris.
There are, however, few dresses made entirely
of taille, for this fabric does not drape SOFTLY
and cashmere of the same shade with an en-
broidered selvedge is preferred for thedrapery,
while the basque and lower skirt are of faille.
A pretty design for such combination has
Greek drapery of the cashmere; the faille
skirt is without founces in front, but is laid in
fan cluster of lengthwise pleats on the left
side, where 1t is disclosed by the draped cash.
mere Two pleated founces cross the back,
and the tunic falls behind in great double box
pleats. The faille basque is laced in front,
pointed behind, and has two side-pleated frills
sewed 10 this point, each containing two
breadths of silk, and one of these is three
eighths of yard, while tnat resting upon it is
only half as deep. For such dress, seal
brown faille and cashmere are used, and the
whole may be enliyened by little pale blue
satin or MORE introduced in the middle of the
Greek pleats on the lower skirt, lining the
pleatngs at back of basque, and as a facing for
the open embroidery that trims the surplice
neck and square cuffs. Black fallle and CASH
mere is very simple and elegant made in this
way, and frightened by geranium red MORE or
satin.
Notwithstanding the prevalence of colored
dresses at the openings, Worth and other Paris
dressmakers have prepared very elegant black
dresses There are satin Surahs sold for 81
yard that are quite good enough for the lus-
trous foundation of such dresses. For these
the satin basque is pointed, and merely edged
with lace instead of being covered with it.
There are two gathered frflls of the lace, lapp-
ing, and much deeper on the hips than in front
and behind. The newest caprice with Worth
is to use the French back for such basques,
without side bodies and merely single seam
up the middle. puff, or perhaps two puffs,
is also stylish edgiDg for pointed basques
Surplice folds from shoulder to bust, and pulled
vests, are pretty trimmings for the front OF the
corsage. A panier scarf breadth edges other
pointed waists, being tied around like a child's
sash, or else attached to the edge by shirring,
or in small side pleats, leaving narrow frill
at the top, or else having lace ruche there.
The paniers curve out in certain shape in
front and fall in soft drapery behind to the
foot of the skirt. For the front breadths SIM
pie trimming, still in favor, is two founees
deep enough to cover from belt to foot, gath
cred at top and across the middle, with pleats
between the gathered parts, and edged with
leaf scallops. New guipure laces and passe-
menteries that are made of fine satin cord trim
these dresses as we'll as the lustrous black
failles. There are also jet embroideries on net
open silk embroideries, and Spanish laces in
full frills for trimming.
To Turkish up last years dresses, panier-
draped sash of the satin Surah sold for 81 a
yard is used to conceal the edge Of the basque.
The box pleats of last years basques are taken
out, and the seams are sewed up and boned to
the edges. A surplice bosom drapery and a
narrow pleated scarf on each sleeve are added;
the large buttons are replaced by small ones OF
ball shape, and this sometimes requires the in
sertion of pointed vest to hide the large but
ton-holes.
a. al fI,
are used with the black silk or satin duchesse
skirts of last season. Terra-cotta cloth and
dark olive green basques are also seen, with
occasionally velvet jacket There is none OF
the color put on the black skirt, but the cloth
Jackets, no matter of what color, have frogs
of black braid on them; six frogs OF even sizes :
are preferred to those that are graduated in size
English homespuas OF dark checks, tan celored
cloth, and the new blue and brick red shades
are made into hunting jackets to wear with
dark skirts in the street, while for the house in
the morning are pretty belted sacques of dark
navy blue and wine colored fouiard spotted
with white. For more dressy waists tight
basque shapes are preferred, and the Stained
glass; patternssof foulard, with many colorS
covering the fabric, are used. Tinted pearl
buttons, nearly white, and shaped like berries
fasten their pretty waists, or else they have full
frills of creamy lace and many loops OF narrow
ribbon.
Dealers say that nine. tenths of their sales of
hosiery are colored stockings. Black silk stock
ings are the most stylish for the street, and also
for full dress day and evening wear with the
highest dresses and also with white. Solid col
ors are preferred for general wear, with very
light clocking or leaf embroidery up each side.
The lace work open designs and hand embroid
cry of self-color or in contrast are the orna-
ments for silk or thread stockings to be worn
with low slippers, and these slippers, most Of
ten of black satin, are so very low at the toes
that the embroidery on the stockings begins
just above the pointed toes.
Translation.
Who was it, who speaking of a translated
book, said: 1t may have been good wine when
it started, but If SO it has been unaccountably
Watered on the way?