Wheeling Sunday register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1882-1934, 1882-09-24
FASHIONS FOR FALL.
The Latest Materials and how
They will be Made.
Something About the New colors That Will
be in Vogue-The Oraped Skirt
Trimmings and How They
Are to be Used.
FALL STYLES FOR YOUNG MEN.

In a few brief weeks not q shadow oil
! the present doubt Is 70 what VIII or
what viii not be in fashion will perPlex
our ladies, and even now there are
! positiye indications OF favor for certain
s,y.es of dress, while approved and ac-
cepted models arc being reproduced
preparatory 10 the opening expositions
which will very soon be announced.
The earlier fall costumes are either In
the lighter grades Of WOODEN goods or In
silk or satius with appropriate COM
binations of brocades, damasSss, Veivets
| and Arcadian velveteens, which can De
found in solid cOlors or in two or more
hues or tones. These latter materials
hot Only form Jackets and tiuishlngS OF
! handsome dresses, but entire tollettes
| are of velvet or the new Arcadiau
yelveteens, and little later skating
| suits will be made in the same hanu-
| some materials.
| In the first place, grOs grain SILK Is
| reinstated as the standard medium SILK
| of general trade. With its return TO
favor there have come in its train a
| host OF repped goods-velours, lndIenne,
| Ottoman satin and silks; plush We oufS,
yelOurs Iarisienne; all manner of rep
ped and corded fabrics, in fine, both in
| silk and i'll wool, with various names
De noting their repped character. Drap
de Thibet, an old an excellent wooden
| fabric, is revived, along with BlartIl
| cloth, while Irish poplins have AT last
lifted themselves from ob5curity. Many
of the new woolens are brocade1 all
over with flowers or figures OF silk in
contrasting color, and are Intended Tor
wear over plain skirts Uf either wool,
silk or velvet, Just as the fashionable
satins have been worn during the past
season. Checks and plaidS, large and
small, are 10 be found IN quantities, and
there is host of striped goods IN all
aualities-woOl, silk and wool, SIX,
silk and satin, velvet, moire-all posi-
BILE combinations, i'm fact. Some OF the
new cloths are a. soft as India CASH
mere and draped beautifully. EagliSh
fashions grow in favor OH this side of
the Atlantic, and cloth dresses, sailor
made, are the leading choice with
fashionable women for the street. Some
of these are severely simple, depending
for their chic altogether upon their eX-
uuisite fit and perfect make; Others are
deliberately braided, with Others yet are
finished with deep Charles ii, collar,
wide cuffs and borders OF plush or vel
vet.
Braiding will be plentifully used as a
trimming for costumesG cloth, vigogue,
cashmere and the like, tiue braids
forming arabesques, tue edges merely
sewn 80 as to cause them to stani up
right like cord. A narrow braid sewn
on flat sometimes follows the design
and gives more elaborate look to the
pattern. The braiding covers the chest
and diminishes toward the waist. The
sleeves have q rounded cuff not too
large. also braided. The cOrsage is
fastened either by row Of small pas
sementerie buttons, or by brandebourg,
with cords covering the centres.
/ The Hussar jacket, which promises to
be the favorite fall wrap for young
| ladies, is, as its name denotes, almost
/ covered with braiding in soutache or
| cord, and fastens with military frogs.
| These wooden walking-suitS, whether
| plain or braided, will, however, be in
| variably in one color, whether the ma
terial be plain or checked; indeed, there
| is a decided fancy for monotone suits,
even where two, three, or as many as
| four fabrics are employed i'll the same
| dress, silk, MORE satin and velvet all
being in the same tint.
Very large spots are the latest fancy
| i'm LYONS Orocades, some plum-shapcd,
| some round, some oval, some shaped
like pear, but all shaded on the lower
edges and standing out in relief on a
| heavily repped ground. In some cases
| the spots are plush, in other satin, and
| they are very wide apart in order to
show the rich background on which
| they are woven. These brOcades are
usually in one color, still on some the
| figures are in contrast or else in lighter
shade of the same color as the ground.
In rich materials the newest are
fcelle lace designs in uncut velvet, and
these appears in delicate shades of pale
blue, Nile green, lavender and shrimp
pink, for the uncut pile on which are
the shadowy grey ficelle figures, ara
besaues, flowers, cts, that seem as light
as a web of lace just thrown upon the
raised surface. These are for evening
dresses, while for parts of costumes for
receptions are dark strawberry red and
porcelain blue velvet with ticelle
figures, to be made up in combination
with plain velvet and trimmed with
| ficelle lace, or else with embroidery in
| designs like that of ticelle, and match
ing the lace design in the figured part
of the costume.
Embroidered robes bid fair 70 be the
especial craze of the season, both IN
woolens and in silks. In cashmeres
they begin a. low as twenty dollars, the
embroidery at this price being compare
lively narrow, and range as high as
seventy-five dollars or more, for very
fine qualities in imported robes. AS
for the rich embroidered tlOunces, they
are superb; reproductions in silk of the
elaborate needlewerk which in white
goods has been amOug the costly fancies
of the past summer, the same wonder
full openwork in flowers, stars, compasses
and wheels, with ali the space between
filled in with lace mesheS all wrought
in close, silk stitches too strong to break
or fray. This same embroidery, copy
ing the white work, comes also by the
ward for bOdicies and fronts of dresses,
and is correspondingly expensive, the
price of toilet of such embroidery,
made up on a foundation OF surah,
either alone, or further embellished by
the addition of handsome Spanish lace
mounting well up into the hundreds.
The new colors, are, for the most
part, quiet in tone, and though many
of them are rich, none are glaring. Terra
Gotta comes in all shades, from dark
tint with a suggestion OF garnet, to
light brown, which is totally
unlike last years terra Gotta, and has
nothing whatever of the red clay hue
about it. Ficelle is very effective in
combination with terra Gotta, and i:
largely used with violet by leading
French dressmakers. Olive shades
prune, dark-reds, dozen, nay a score,
of blues; more greens than it is possible
to enumerate, beginning with greenish
cream and ending with dark hue Of
cooked spinach; golden brown, and 9
new shade called honeysucSle, faint
rose tint; and the aesthetic crushed
strawberry, are the shades of the mo-
ment.