The Hickman courier. [volume] (Hickman, Ky.) 1859-current, 1882-11-24
Black Cashmere. Camel's.hair, Etc.

A nice black wool dress has become
almost indispensa le in a lady outfit
and is valued alike by the young anC
old. For young the present fancy IS t.
brighten black dresses with faeings ant
vests OF coIored cashmere, or 10 wea
an entire basque of a gay color, or els'
Jersey waist, but the greater number
OF black wool dresses are now made IL
the simple STYLES adopted for clott
dresses. as these are more serv ,ceablt
because less likely to go-oiit OF ia 'hion
and are inexpensive because they re
quire no trimming but stitching, or else
very simple braiding. The cashmere
of nice quality, and Jet black without q
blue cast, is OF itself so pleasing iabric
that trimming is not needed to enhance
Its beauty, but the tubular braids, many
rows of soutache, or small quantity oil
| galloon made OF twisted cords, or some
velvet folds are generally aided to
camel hair dresses. If a combination
Is liked better, or there are partly worn
skirts of last season TO be remode ed,
the wool goods - used Tor a-s.aJ2icr pol
onalse OK a pc lisss VIII H9aaA - = =
and collar OF the material of the skirt.
/ The Jersey webbing that is sold bv the
| yard is also purchased for a waist 10 be
used with wOolen skirts; in sin
/ gle widths this is now sold for
| Sl.J0 yard, and is made up
/ with few seams, and more snuglv
! fitted than less elastic fabrics, rs il clinos
and expands with the figure. Some
young ladies add q collar. wristbands,
and sash OF dark red. bright Turkey
red, or turquoise blue cashmere to com
plete these waists; the buttons are
usually black and very small. Plush
that is no longer the first fashion. is
now used for the skirt, with camel s.
hair for the over dress. The skirt NAV
be perfectly plain, with a narrow box
plating OF camel s-hair at the foot. or
e may have some lengthwise plaits ad-
ded in the front or sides where the
oyer-dress. discloses it. or it NAV have
most OF its fullness in two great box
plaits behind, and the cloth-like over
garment be cut with long side cores,
and short position back that is cut of
straight across on the tOurnure. This
makes warm looking winter dress for
ladies who do not find the taiIor-m4de
suits becoming. The wooden repped
stutfs that are liked best have the reps
leLgthwise instead of across the fabric.
because they are more easily cleansed
by brushing downward; these are sim
liar 10 what was formerly called Biar-
ritz cloth. but the reps are more prom,
inent Beaded trimmings are not Liked
for black wool dresses. the ladies whc
consider expense think it a risk to buy
jet trimmings, because they have been
worn so long. The embroider.es done
on the fabric are liked for more costly
black dresses OF cashmere or of camel s.
hair.
The Henrietta cloths that were for
mRriy confined 70 faIfa- -.
mourning are now used bv those wear
ing colors when very rich fabric is de-
sired. and The trimming IS the silk Span
ish lace with heavy corded designs on
meshes OF guipure. Shirring in broad
masses IS no longer used on woo,en
skirts. though the Slightly shirred scarf
draperies, or the fronts of the basque
shirred upon a vest, are still popular.
Iucks around the skirt and on the over
skirt are more used even than last sea
son, and quite rival the lengthwise
pa Is This is especially true of French
dresses, as the Paris an dressmakers
have lately made the entire frt mt and
side breadths of ha finch tucks in cash
mere costumes not only in black. but in
co.ors. The effec is that Of horizontal
braiding, and the edge is trimmed with
ruche or with "A narrow b x-Dlaitinp.
Vests are worn in such varied shapps
this season that they afford excellent
ways Of freshening up a partly worn
basque. A velvet, corduroy. velveteen
or brOcaded velvet vest NAV be appro-
pria ely added TO almost any wool. or
silk. or satin basque. IF the bottoms
AM holes are fraYed. a Breton vest is
most useful, as it is all in one piece.
or may have seam down the
middle, and can be sewed on
the right side with a slight edpino
of I'd paSsementerie and is tanned
across to the left. where it is met bv
similar trimming, and MAY be fastened
by hooks and loops, or there NAV be a
row OF small buttons down each side.
If the skirt front is also worn. a breadth
of velvet may be inserted there in sirni
lar fashion, and the vagaries of the
styles are such that a b't of chenille or
jetted fringe may be used ut the foot of |
this breadth, even though it does not
appear elsewhere on the dress; indeed. |
there IS fancy for leaving the wide |
side breadths without any trimming at |
the foot. no matter how eiaboratelv the /
other part of the skirt may e trimmed. /
If the Breton vest is not liked. there /
can be narrower vest put under seal /
ops of the dress waist, or with ruche /
TO conceal the join, or there NAV be /
4 more masculine-shaped vest. with
louble points in front, and Sits for
watch and change pockets This vest
5 sewed in the under-arm seams, and is
'ften of brocade. with the cashmere
ront of the basque drawn back gradu-
lily from Just beneath the collar. Two
gathered frilIs of doubled ottoman silk
n of satin. each an inch and half
vide, and both turned toward the left
ide, and placed down the BASQUE from
leck to waist line. are tasteful trim
nings for any waist. and will conceal
he soiled front of a dress of last year.
-HNy-r1ez-i z F20-0g-