The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1882-11-17
Fall Bonnets.

The.late openings Of millinery show
many novelties not found earlier in the
season, and by these exhibitions the
styles are settled, confirming the predic-
tons that dress bonnets will be very
small for ladies of all ages; that poke
bonnets will be worn to poke more down.
ward than above the forehead, and will
be used by young ladies rather than old
ones; and finally that round hats will be
extremely small turbans or caps worn
back on the head as bonnets are, or else
they will be very large, with wide fronts
that shade the forehead and cover the
front hair entirely. More small bonnets
of velvet are shown than of all other
materials. The full front and soft crowns
are newest for these. but smoothly COW
cred crowns and brims are the popular
style. The fancy for contrasts is shown
in having the crown of one color and the
brim of another, and the liking for red
with green is seen in many shades Of
these two colors; thus, for full-dress re-
ceptions, the opera, ETC., are crowns of
the palest pink rose velvet, with light
green velvet for the brim and strings;
while to wear with visiting costumes are
crowns of bright Arab red or dark garnet
velvet, terra-cotta, or strawberry, with
the brim of dark moss green or rifle
green velvet, or perhaps green velvet
foliage covers the entire brim, or it may
have the rich beaded and embroidered
laces of these two colors; there is then
single bird or panache of feathers on the
left showing both colors, and the strings
of velvet or ottoman ribbon to match
the color of the brim. One pretty fashion
is that of dark green velvet for the en-
tire outside of the bonnet, with shrimp
pink velvet shirred inside the brim, and
a cluster Of shrimp pink ostrich tips out
side. Electric blue velvet bonnets lined
with ficelle gray shirred velvet, and
trimmed with aiicelle plume or bird, are
also fashionable contrasts. The full
fronts of velvet mentioned above are
rows of boS-plaiting covering the brim,
or else there are five or six rows of loops
of velvet or satin ribbon thickly over
Tapped to form the brim, while the crown
is either plain smooth velvet, or it may
be a soft cap crown of embroidered
velvet, or of plain velvet in two length
wise box plaits, or gathered on reed
round and round in q circle, or else COW
cred with the beaded and artistically en-
broidered laces.
Two shades of strawberry red velvet
with panache of the same shades and
ottoman ribbon strings are liked in
small bonnet to be worn with black,
green, or strawberry red dresses. The
Arab red velvet bonnets are also offered
for both blondes and brunettes. and these
are softened by a long scarf of Spanish
guipure lace that serves for trimming
and for strings, with either red or black
bird, or the inevitable cluster of three
ostrich tips ON the left. For black velvet
bonnets these lace scarfs are also used,
and there are black ostrich tips busted
all over with gold to trim them, and the
brim may have gold cord passementerie
on the edge or inside. Other black vel
vet bonnets with box-plaited brims are
shot all over with gold beads; still others
have jet crescents in black laces, and
more youthful ones have panache of
shrimp pink or strawberry red or copper
colored feathers. The tiniest bonnets
ever worn by full grown woman are
made for young ladies to match their
suits. From front to back these measure
only an eighth of a yard, and the crown
is straight and flat against the head, Sc
that they tit the back part of the head
perfectly, resting on the low knotted
couture. Plain velvet covers these; bro
caded velvet ribbon crosses the brim
carelessly in easy folds from ear to ear;
the entire edge is bound with striped
plush; two or three gilt stays, butter
flies, beetles, or short pins with ham,
mered gilt heads are stuck in the ribbon,
and two small curled ostrich tips are on
the left side. There are no strings, and
the bonnet is held on by two long pins
thrust through the crown and hair.
Made of pale blue, shrimp pink or cream
white, with beaded lace or ribbon, these
are charming for dressy wear, while of
black or dark velvet they are suitable for
church or street, to wear with the plain
cloth or cashmere costumes that are now
chosen for church and street. Any in
genious young woman can make herself
two or three such bonnets for the price
she would have to pay for one made to
order. The felt bonnets of small size
are trimmed with velvet folds and breast
feathers, or a bird, and most of these are
close in shape, with the trimming pro-
ducing an Alsacian effect by its outlines,
though not always arranged in an Asa
clan bow.
Very dressy pokes of terra-cotta, cleo
trio blue, or copper red felt have their
entire trimming of ostrich feathers of the
same shade passing around the front and
sides far forward on the brim, but not
meeting behind the crown; the edges are
bound with striped plush ribbon provi-
ded for this purpose. and there are no
strings. Elegant pokes are made of
bright Arab red or dark garnet velvet
with shirred ficelle gray velvet lining,
and Il red bird with long plumage that
sweeps around back of the crown. Ham,
mered gilt beads set singly and an inch
apart are the stylish finish for the brims
of velvet bonnets. New ..piece lace" of
cords of French felt is used for the entire
brims of bonnets that have velvet crowns,
either black or colored. Among the nov
elites are braided chenille, plush and
felt bonnets in imitation of the basket
bornets worn during the summer. For
elderly ladies are black velvet bonnets
with real Chantilly lace trimmings and
black velvet bands held by clasps of an
tique silver; bunch of dark pansies and
strings of ottoman repped silk complete
these. The new bright Arab velvet is
very effective in combination with dark
brown velvet, plush and brownish-red
plumes. A few amber beads are seen
IA ,-;,rr tlo br;,,,, Of 1orI 1-a1vat hnppats