The Ottawa free trader. [volume] (Ottawa, Ill.) 1843-1916, 1882-04-22

OIueI dOnOm8nu, 70 WnlCD III parties WIN
made the trip through the center and around
the base of the mountain through the koolau
gulches back TO Makawao should belong.
Only one of our party had already the honor
of belonging to the Knights of Honomanu,
and he put on agood many airs In consequence
II was Henry, and only sympathy for his poor
finger prevented HIM from being scalped.
Before leaving camp Monday morning we
carved "A1NOKEA" and the date on big
rock and voted "Laiewai" a first class camp.
ing place.
Our trail now led US down the steep noun
tain side along the black lava river and under
the north cliff OF Kaupo Gap. The scenery
was pronounced X. At noon we halted on the
rocky bank of trucking stream, and had
doughnuts and cheese. Soon after we came
IN sight OF the sea line long way below US,
looking very pretty in the sunlight. The
white line of breakers over the reef made Il
fringe which set off the green mainland ad-
mirably. Away in the distance, across the
thirty mile channel, doomed dlmly the Noun
talns of Hawaii, and at our feet, stretching up
toward US, lay the native town Of Kaupo. AS
we neared 1t we came across stone fences, show
ing that formerly the country was denscly
populated a mile or more higher up the noun
tain than where the first house now stands.
The Kanakas have passed away. Their care
less mode Of living has made the diseases
brought here by the whaling fleets fifty years
ago bear fearful fruit, and IN spite OF the fos-
tering care of the missionaries, they have died
off like sheep attacked by the murraln,
To our left as we enter Kaupo grand sight
reveals Itself-Kamanuwainul, curved cliff
several thousand feet high with sixteen beauti-
full waterfalls IN view at once on its face. 1t
was 80 fine that we unanimously agreed that
il was worth closer view, and we planned
visiting it next morning before going on, as
we expected to camp on the stream flowing
out of the valley into which the cataracts fell.
But tourists propose and guides dispose. When
we reached the point where the road crosses
the stream, a very picturesque spot near the
Kalima interfered:
"Over IN the next gulch," he said, "there Is
a beautiful place to camp"
Here is beautiful place, too"
"We.l, but there are no ferns for beds"
1--WE can get plenty up the valley"
There is no wood here to make fire."
"How far is it to the next gulch"
sob, only little way over the hill"
We put it to vote and decided to go on.
"ittle way" stretched out to about
mile of steep road-for he didn't call anything
a gulch that wasn't over eight hundred feet
deep Farewell, "Kamanuwalnui," with your
beautiful waterfalls! We might have known
the guide would fool us. The place he brought
US to at last was where three grass houses
stood on the sea beach, and his stream of wa
ter WAS pond that oozed out of the ground
Just above high tide and was used by the Ka-
nakas as bathing hole! We wanted to beat
our heads against the rocks for being such
ninnles as to believe him, but 1t was too late
TO 20 back or look farther for a camping
ground.
While the boys raised the tent In the high
grass IN one of the house yards, Mother Prue
led the girls on guava hunt. They soon re-
turned with plenty of the sweet fruit We
bought fresh fish from Father Abraham, as
we dubbed the patriarch of the settlement,
and we had good supper and tried to forget
our disappointment. The night was dellci-
ously balmy and we all sat on the stone wall
singing songs to astonish the natives One
little rascal was very musical, and we heard
him trying to sing Hokey-Pokey Winky-
Wunk" after us, Henry took him IN hand and
taught HIM the chorus, to his great delight.
Future travellers in that benlghted region may
be startled by the familiar strains of that soul
stirring anthem and bless our efforts to civil.
ize the heather.
Father Abraham was evidently struck with
Sally Ann. She was the plump one of the
party, and the old cannibal, no doubt, was
thinking what elegant, juicy steaks she would
make. He squatted on his launches rs she
fried the fish for supper, gazing lovingly up
into her face and followed her with his eyes
whenever she moved, for nearly an hour. 4,
her very much but caused the rest
of us great joy. He was very old and skinny
over $3.50 old, II fact that he
did not consider clothes aecessity. His cos
tune consisted Of the native maiO about the
loins and a tatterrd shirt, and as he squatted
by the fire watching Ann he looked more like
a gigantic frog than human being
The surf broke directly on the beach in front
of the houses without any outer line of
reef to be seen. The boys took advantage of
It, taking refreshing bath both evening and
at a secluded spot around Il project.
ing elf. 1t shelved down SO steep that we
were afraid Of the undertow, but it was great
fun to get down "a low as we dared on the
shingle and let the breakers dash over us We
tried to buy a chicken for breakfast from one