New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-01-22
MIDWINTER FASHIONS.

VISITING DREssEs-HATs, GLOVES AND HE
MINOR DETAILS OF TILE TOILETTE.
North. South. East and West, women
are gradually becoming united by sl'Aeh 'il'a"'
,a by sukworm For more than two de
eades the snkworms OF Europe nave peeh
stricken with a my sterious disease winch PIVN'"
fatal before the victims reached the spinning point
The cause has never been discovered clearly nor
proper remedy suggested, nor could the sllAWoilh "
REPLACED In regard TO England is supposed that inc
climate is extremely unfavorabe 10 the growth OF inc
delicate white mulberry especially after 1t has peeh
stpped OF its leaves Even under Italian SKIES lhche
fragile trees treated with the tenderes care aeI c
stripping process; allowed 10 rest, careiu.y s"''ne"
with moist hay they the anxious nursing gwen
10 human being With the decrease OF the supply Elk
has gradually become more expensive
According 10 the annual report of Consul IeNotto al
LYONS the United states annually produces upward OF
$4,000 600 worth OF silk fabrics but being WITHOUT
silk nlafure this country entirely dependent upon Lu
rope and Asia for the material The mulberry tree
Is raised here without difficulty. Thousands of women
md children are ready and 70 enter this new ed
OF industry thus developing one more great source VI
national wealth. NJ. PeiXoto believes this can De d"he
by the Invention OF machine which VIII DO Tor the Ia"
silk what the cotton gin for the raw cotton Inc
,orn that feeds on the mulberry leaves produces the
most delicate and beautiful silk but is very fragile
There is another species OF sikwo-to belonging 10 Tue
plebeian caste, the bJmbyX worm OF China tha' pears
change Of climate without loss OF health II lced5
ercediv on the leaves Of the aautus tree, winch is
constgrtl cut down and kent ia bushy stat" The Dom
byx gives two crops Of cocoous year and lives IN the
open air among the strong shoots OF the hardy tree me
SILK is coarse and exceedingly strong and Is nSe' ny TIC
poorer casses FOX their common clothing tie year
round The homhyx is hearty feeder ano
has y vigorous constitution. The large cocooh'
arc oval and OF the color o. 0cadcaL II was hi' III
1rolucci into Europe by two Pie2mcHtrse nati"l7t'
WHO received IL from missionary in CHINA HreA"'H7
fo- the women OF America to Import The bonbyN tla'
$3.50 mild r
are gradually beginning to comprehend that tey are
rayng two prices fo- imrorc! silks that ater ALL are
not nearly So durable the domestic when is eq'"J
desirable i'm every way. The texture IS Oh the A'' ana
there Is no possibility OF crack OF fray or arriving al''
few months wear into the fata, shiny gloss ioI
which there i, no remedy. This proceeds from The action
a the soap and aIaaI. dcye!ol nc grease under fc"i
The cracking and crca>ing ., silk arise from TIC io'
itv of the fine threads carry their great load 81 sHch
chemicals dyes and mixtures as iron, oEV02d soda p'l
nah GOOD test Of purity is 20 burn small quantity
Of The threads Pure silk VIII instantly crisp. leaving
or.y charcoal heavily dyed SIX viii shoulder 10 yer
low greasy ash Tho American brocadeS and sTos grams
are Of absolutely pure silk aud usr0us and soft that
m expert would p" able TO Distinguish them from
rcclsl silk fabrics excepting by critical cNamIu@tian
Their durability is UnsuIpa,sedi yet they are s"lu al
one half the price Of foreign silks Tho first Important
step in recent American improvements arose from the
opening Of the overland route, which brought The raw
silk direct from Asia Before that time manufacturers
were forced 10 receive the refuse of Tie European mar
lets.
PAIr. AND RECEPTION DEES-TS.
The cry Of fashion change, chlu-a Is really not cT-
travacant for although at times uhicnS loss On our
manufacturers it Is probably, On the whole benefit.
conposser is by 10 means found fgUlj VITA because he
pays an price for an exquisite it Oh coorng
on canvas. Why, tAcn must O woman be condemned
eiul because She ivc- ya,ue ana to her dress ia
new and beautiful combinations! cultivated oye for
color and musical 20 ay i-ritated by discord'
The memory OF Laura Is uc0Uplc without the charm
ing dress Of green velvet and oes which Pcrar'h Gd
not disdain amortalc. To-day. among the artistic
combinations IS superb ruby satin, with blue GIN
bossct velvet figures Oihcr important c'ors are dark
green garnet old gold, myrtle green, cho"dun copper
colon and black in velvet and brOc3dc satin For young
1aJe. some of ne ros delicate and beautiful colirT are
seen baby blue, shrimp pink pale lemon sapphire blue,
and white and silver. superb WcaoASCT,"' OI Amer
ihrcads en,inr through lis creamy white horated
groundwork For other magnificent Weddn--lr es.es
White brocate combined Win satin also There is
,acJ near DEEDS ana six and thread chenille on the
white satin ahe' ~ the r!r%hda ioliase "l wafer
eperscd with ferns and spHod iroGds OF palm some OF
deIis,te Costume are family tinted with rose or in
Inoihcr-of pearl, while peach color may he safely in
irs,9e caution particaary for the style noude Win
suspicion red in the haIr, or too much color Madame
debt for an elegant rts. o peach cooIcd sk dcicatcy
gintiuv through the finest India muslin with sasncs
and flowing ends OF t!!Nt rlb2onS. MSle ana ItnoH'
even orange, aslOHac cOorS, aud their effect Is
heath banks OF snowy clouds Of tUle finest, souest
null Crimson is frequently chosen VITA these co!ors
Among some tropical bits OF rccss Is reception dress
ofruby satin The OHgIalncd skirt sOVs through Ora
perry Of priceless black Cnanty lace in ltsIi an cAQus
lite picture Of SHADED roses, vines lily cups, bees and
butterflies. like Ac finest etching or INDIA ink drawing
with White jet. The design Is Of bcwidcrins form,
Ike a fairy cavern OF stalact'tes, grouped il col
ACCOMMODATING TIN. superb fouucc OF Brussels point,
which passes around the front and is adjusted to the
fastened with punches OF white hyacinths classical
flower promising 10 take the place OF the too common
beauty graceful branch Of Eyacluth crosses each
strap OF satin forming the sleeves hainldden III
INST Brussels point The square cut basque
s filed with similar lace, and below this Is vest
covered with the winnie JET ehpIoutly. SoHle iaD'gs
}ranc6inc feathers Of fera and tasseed cat kus tie
beads Snow fiery and eneradiue lustrc soitcned by
the Vcvety and skCn shades OF the other materials Ia
soft green and soft gold
TEA AND VISITING COSTUMES.
In the way OF tea and visiting costumes common
.ense still holds and guides the designers shears.
Dainty dresses Of abatross cloth, nuns veil
ing cashmere satin Lyon Surah silk arc combined
with wool silk and trimmed with the fashionable
open worked embroidery the selvaSe, lGccs in
fusion or ribbons. aoTe elaborate arc rich velvet
dresses. coored black. with great deal Of lace
Nothing can preer artistic than the present
STYLE Of dress OF tremendous revolutions must
he effected before American women conscious Of their
grace and beauty win consent to be made hideous BY
The sthees advocate Incdaval fashions with skcn
coats and caps. runs ana cnus ana iarthSL,s' WIN
the majority, Ustheuc dress would DC simply ecceu-
frcty. golden Is difficult TO hit between the
Tsthetcs and Ecstatcs and Deprec!dtors But 70 use
The strongest argument, Hstbeuc colols are extremely
ruDecoInuE SO is the arrangement OF the costume
Nor always convenient TO talk only OF poetry, music
and flowers, or TO carry IL general way handful o
lilies aud feed peacock and attend TO the duties every
woman has TO perform, whatever Ter station IN NE.
HATS AND BONNLTS.
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