New-York tribune., 1882-03-13
TIE FASHIONS.
EARLY OPENING DAYS.

EARLY OPENIN DAYS.
AGAIN THE POLONAIsE-JACBETs AND BAsQUEs--
FRENCH PATrERNs-TRIMMTNG AND ORNAMENTS
After varying to all points OF the compass
Fashion finally returns again, at headquarters III
to the graceful economical and becoming polonaiSe nut
basques and jackets OF every other shape TO sun Ill
figures are not by any means discarded These ne"
shapes were all revealed the first opening Of the sea
son-the paperpatern opening. The he-llke dummies
blonde and brunette. with faces, necks ana hanS
are arrayed in the most elegant costumes maze oil
paper trimmed precisely they arc to be wofn' III NM
taiOn Of costly fabrics in color and style Inc inheii
and trimmings OF whatever nature, closely initiated
the lace reproduction OF the delicate designs as
well AS the fringes For the millions who make up theI
own dresses and wraps there are illustrated ehFeopes
containing the patterns IN plain tissue paper Ahohe
the most graceful Of the polonaises Is the Justai
the fronts separate below the waist and are dapei gh
I'm panier pleats at the Sides, ornamented with long
looped rtbbons. The back drapery Is untrlmrnedi
the fronts are trimmed with either lace or
fringe Corresponding ribbon is fastened on each
side OF the waist carried down 20 the point OF the lower
button where the drapery parts. and s tastenea nVe
OF Austria style The sleeves are finished with
pointed cuff THIS model and the Anletta seem
tends much lower before the drapery parted ana car
rieJ up at the back succession of paneY peats ias
te ed near the waist beneath other dfapery ia oyer
the seam in succession of narrow deep PlsatiRREgs
which fall and spread into square taber behina "a @
plain fabric made to combine with skirt or the ne"
check stuff Of which there Is narrow Waistcoa "lGti
ing at the throat with rolling collar ana ecu Guns
tion by It's elaborate combination OF TWO contrasting
SOME OF THE JACKETS
Among the infinite variety of Jackets is the sorolto
an extremely simple closely6ting garment The fronts
being cut away below the waist the shape is relieved
from stiffness. The back is made full in the skirts by
being laid in pleats. This IL trimmed with rich watered
ribbon bows in long loops at each side OF the
af hp
neck to correspond The Granville jacket is double
breasted aud close fitting; therefore more practical
corIeer ornaments the two back seams. otherwise
untrmmed and tailor finished. OF the tanoifn basqnes
the most coauettsh il the Mea fashioned with pleated
paueIs plastron vest ending in large bow and sasn
The back il arranged in full box pats, and there are
broad square collar and mOusqu aire cuffs ofth same
material as the wnistcOat. The pretty little Margarta
blouse waist is made perfectly loose and confined with
belt jabOt of extends from the throat to the edge
which is trimmed all around with side pleatlng; this
cut narrower also trims the sleeves and orrangedaO
the neck This seems to De Gns f6T sprr icr
wear il can be easily made and laundried Some hand
walking skirts have the convenient adjustable tram
made i'm readiness to he attached The POstOra Is trim
med with three deep box ptatcd H0uhCes over WHICH II
arranged very graceful drapcry Ihefe are TWO
overlapping dIaped aprons on the front. me Dich
is made ycecdngy bOlfan with pleated ENDS droophg
For youn girls the Niestia costume is very
pretty and simple. The short g9red skirt is enlrcF
covered with gathered rufiies Ine bas9ne has side
paniers added To the lower part Is sred IA lGt @ &u
terminates beneath very I9rse oG% az e 80, pi'A; @ m
Is also n deep wide collar. a costume CAue the ONI
for girl OF similar age mas %'ue XIV M sboy %,g
Ibis are narrower DOunCe ana corresponding dapery
which Is drawn M and, meeting ar Inc Daslue, ~
Hescse @ and wider one laid FIAT reaching
the waist where 1t is fastened with an Ornament ana
ends in two tabs.
COSTUMES FOR LITTLE FOLKS.
The quaint and charming Greenaway costumes for the
little ones are reproduced Among some pretty designs
is Grcenaway loose blouse which s appropriate for an
apron or dress 1t Is mounted full upon square yoke,
which il simply band disclosing full shirrcd gimpe
drawn up around the neck double shirring forms a
fun rnfe The blouse sleeves similarly arranged at
the wrists Another simple and pretty design Ia an Eng
sh blouse apron made loose and attached to square
yoke Of insertion. There are several narrow tucks at
the bottom heading embroidered hounce. dainty
dress for little girl Of five years ia pale blue flannel
Prucessr costume, edged with two hOuuceS the lining
l. se,ndttnr and the material Is peated like blouse
upon IL there is handsome sash bow OF more, ana
collar ard cuffs Of MirccOurt lace For little gr 0i SIX
charming street costume is made Of an almond cOlOred
cloth casaque butoHing at the waist with an elaborate
antique silver clasp. and open above and below with
OF seal brown plush me skirt Is satlh OF the
same shade; the cuffs and collar are of plush. For
baby of two dress OF creamy white cashmere is edged
with peating, over which fals lhcc nouhce tne
broad sash is OF creamy mOire lace cascade noWsdoW
the front, and quilted lace surrounds the throat ana
Among new colors are some lovely shades OF green
the French and Spanish olive, Naples bay psache ana
/ an absinthe Creen-grIy Hunters-green appears re-
chriseued Veri TirOi and there is light new shade OF
shading with faint yellow bots mellOwed TO ;he exact
tone of outside of StlltoD cheese. MS style Is
mostly I'm soft flannel for costumes There i noh
which are pure tints and halftones, wei as
in richer and darker shades including the warm 0d cop
ncr tints that are so fashionable Notwithstanding the
TACT that they are unbecomng to most cOmpleXons
FoBs, SEALS, PINS AND RINGS.
The fashion of fobs and seals worn by men creates
desire for curiOs and copies of the antique in gems gold
! and coins Among these s terriers head OF massive
gold exqui-ltcy modelled east and chased 1t has eyes
! of rubies aud holds diamond in its mouth. large
coclaoo IN the same plan Of workmanship, with hal
raised crest has diamond circet about its neck and
diamond eyes. superb pendant OF square shape Is sci
! with carving in intago on sardopyx of Hector anC
Achilles; another OF similar shape and mounting, also
very finely carved I'm ntaglio shows tho abors OF Her
cules Seals revived in CLOSE imitation OF those worI
nearly century ago, and are set with b0OdstOnes sar
donyx onyx and chrysOphore Upon some of these are
dclica ely carved IN ntaglo beads of classical ant
myholOg ca studies. The massive gold or the seal
done in elaborate repousse aud the slides are decate
| engraved An antique Greek coin fob pendant SHOVE
upon ts surface Diana driving chariot aud -FOUR horSe
| twisted rope. There some soarfpins OF medieva
| fashion IN patina and gold Of beak shaped viSors
! Shrimps wolf heads bees. spiders and other quain
conces IN platna and gOlt c0ored by alloys, are als
| Among some suberb wedding gifts in preparation 70
| Easter holidays lace pins aud rings set with dla
| certre brilliant green tOurmalne and two large da
monds others have single large stone, as PINK tour
| mnliue OF excessive luStrC II cleaning cutseye
Others show placed together in wild carnival OF color
ing Dyacinth, perdot, ruby ami colored pearl, per
hans stlpcrb diamond The blue topaz Of the dlau
fields Africa aud the flame coored topaz OF Switzer
land are taking prominent place III artistic wOrl
and ans hetic rovivals, for Greek poet says OF th
| topaz: Adorned with II man may gain thS heart o
every woman and woman the heart of every man." Soin
small chatclDo watches Of OIidzed silver are carved
bOdest relief Pan, eXqusitey engraved, peeps from
thicket Of feze on another ne specimen OF artistic
work IN Renaissance mask; surmounting Chatelain
are a rampant unicorn and lien in combat Another DO
| les, carefully worked out with mDute fidelity Il
nature, Is turtle wrought through the repouss