The Sunday herald. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1866-1887, 1882-10-22

Having arrived at this charming spot on
Monday last, IN company With Col. janes stevenson,
NJ the chronological Bureau and Col. Ilzor editor "
tho Eureka Eogio, tNansas city, We ct once voted
Kcam rancho the Eden or tile West, and ] snatch
time TO send you rcw lines dcscrtivc Of my Jour
uoy.
We spout several days In Santa Ft whore wo had
the pleasure Of meeting Gen, Mackenzie, military
commander OF this district, from whom we received
many courtosies, aud who rendered Col stevenson
every possible aid In hitting out his expedition 70 eS-
plore the Canon do Chiefly and the ruins In that vcin-
ity. find this quaint old town mnch changed since
my last visit hero. The nnc buildings which loom
up here and there mark the advance Of Eastorn civ
uzatou, hut those OF who know Santa 10, with Its
low adobe houses and narrow, crooked streets,
blocked up with burroS laden with wood, or perhaps
with the entire household effects Of somefamiy or with
Idle Mexican men aud women, Aunterng along, or
sitting tho sidewalks punng cigarettes and offer
ing fuits FOR sale feel pang VI regret that the oldest
town In the country Is fast losing ts charm OF anti
guilty. Tho old Spanish churches, too, have been so
moderated In the process OF repairs that much OF
their primitive nttractlvenoss is gone.
The Palace now occupied 10y tho Governor as once
and residence, looks much as Imagine 1t did when
used 10y the spanish dtgnltarlo4 though II has built
up history Tor Itself since tho building VI It by the
spanish Invaders. There Is, however, one improve
mont In Santa F6 which tho heart feels regret
the Openlng Of pretty little hotel. The shops are
making vast strides. There are two nno Iewclfy
stores with elaborate displays of native silver and
gold icwclry What dctracts from the beauty OF the
Mexican nlagree work Is tho strong suspicion that
most Of II Is manufactured IN Newark, N. j. Indeed
have boen told for fact littleish old boy' Il
kept In the work-room of ono OF these establishments
ostrnsiby M worker In ewelry, when In reality he
does the clock and watch mcndng, tho Same hts OF
gold and silver wire having been on hand Tor many
day. The visitor requesting to see The work SHOP,
signal Is given the old boys he jumps from hls bench
and IL deeply Interested over the delicate lace work
Of gold or silver. hut jewellers are not the only
dearrs who practice the "trlcks OF the trade
over the door OF n certain establishment one reads
"Curios Ancient aud Modein.n This Is the great
resort for tourists and curiosity seekers. Here one
hnds tho Gods Of the ancient AZecs-be careful do
not touch the clay, It may burn you These same
gods may hc fresh from the Indian oven, The
ruchos living In the vicinity ofsanta 20 resort to- thls
store to receive orders am ola by the Indians,
features aud throwing his four limbs In some out
andsh posture. Tho Chorci Indian pottery seldom
OF urver lnds Its way to santa F6 u Il made 10y In
daus remote from that city, and is manufactured
exclusively for their use, and In many Instances
they are 10th to part with 1t. even for good round
sum-
During my stay In Santa Fc was the guest Of Mai.
and Mrs Tucker. Their friends, know, will he happy
to learn that they have charmingy pretty home In
the faraway city. Their little four. year-old boy Is
thoroughly enjoying Western life, and mounts and
drives burr0 like native. Leaving Santa fc, we
proceeded over tho At. aud santa Fu RAILROAD south
to Albuquerque, the Rio Grandc. Tile new town Of
Albuquerque Is thriving business place and rail-
road centre Here We leave the A. T. and Santa F6,
and take the Atlantic and Pacific which Ia To carry
MS west to Wngate This road passcs through an eN-
cccdingy interesting section of country, and has
| already advanced some two hundred and nifty miles
beyond Wlngate. While waiting for MIR. Stevenson
to complete his 'camplng OUTFIT ~ We took Dcep at
furnishing us r"nsporaiion NY old old 2" n friends
greeted warmly aud insisted that spend the hest
portion of tho day In castng on peaches and melons.
Those OF the Indians who had visited Washington
eager to refer to tho good times they had there
and tho many great peo do they had seen. chanced
to be In Zun when Con. John Logan visited the vii
lage. Tho people highly pleased TO receive
OF Washington's great caciques.
Fort wlnpate Is pretty little group of gray adobe,
gablul-root houses, nestled In M ancllnal basin on
In tho distance Is remarkable wall OF red sandstone
cliffs extending from east to west, distance OF three
at whose house was guest while at Wlngate, one
can enjoy an over changing panorama. The cliffs arc
constantly ranging. DIR. Matthews is we'll known In
chronological circles as an ardentworkerln that branch
OF science. and hc Is now busy preparing grammar
OF the Navajo language Iieishappy In havlnga wife
as earnestly enthusiastic as himself.
We loft Wingate on the morning of the 3Oth, and
travelled n distance OF forty-fvo miles to Fort De-
Nance, tho Navajo Agency. Some years since this
| adobe, built around plaza forming square They
look decidedly worse for wear. The only cheerful
looking spot about the place Is tho white sandstone
school house-a story and mansard with slate
roof. This building accommodates over one hundred
boarding scholars fear tho time viii be long ere
much Is made Of It, unless tho Department gives the
Navajos agent to thor liking II pitfu to listen
TO their entreaies to us to talk for them when
turn to Washington. The great council chief,
GanadO Mucho (many hands, after long talk with
the gentlemen OF the party turned and addressed me-
begging me, in the name OF the women OF the tribe, to
talk to the Great Father for them lie said 90 the
mothers desired that their sons DO good men. The
railroad coming through hoir country and their
sons must learn to like the Americans and work with
them, not against them; and they wanted man
for their agent who wOnld teach and lead their young
| men like a good father. Aside from the question
whether the present agent Is what tho Indians do
| Met him. cannot visit the Navajo gOunlry and
not feel that 1t would be wise and humane In our
Government to give to these people man who could
enlist their sympathies and respect. Since my ar
rival In the country troops were sent from Wingao
| to quiet disturbance. The Navajos declared they
Our host tMr. Keam) has the most remark
| able control over these people. Their low,
and respect for him Is unlimited. have
heard prominent Army officer say Mr.. kean
| has saved tho Government several Navajo wars
| This gentleman has been trader with the Navajo
for some years, and speaks their language fucntly
| agent. hardly think he would he willing to MAKE
| the necessary sacrifices to crafty their desire.
| which would have been exceedingly pretty had 1t
| walls been watered by rlvuet. miss the lea
crystal streams OF Colorado and the North Iiore
travels for days over alkali deserts with scarcely
drop of water. Tho second night spent at
| rancho owned by Mcssrs. Leonard aud Williams
two OF the hearest and most hOsptable bachelors II
| all the world. From here we had long days trayr
OF fifty miles and no water save one little pocket
only taste for our mules. In this country one soo
finds healthy appetite, and when the mules halto
for their drop our little party alighted and dc
scenlcd into an aroya In order to find shelter from tn
| wind and to partake Of our luncheon Col. Rize
suggested cup Of hot tea, Brush was gathered an
a Are lighted, and the pot was soon boiling. What
glorious cupsof tea Col. Rizer is the prince of te
drawers We arrived at our present destination
abont sunset. This rancho is walled in by Mr.
Keams, aud Is called Keams's Canon. 1t il MIN
miles long, varying In width from n half TO three
quarters of mile The rancho is composed of
number of houses built Mexican style around plaza
1t was source OF great surprise to us to find such Al
i utal.lI glltnA ant I'm
from civilization. The houses are built u
white sandstone, and Mr.. Kean's bache 10
quarters stand on the inner side OF the plaza. Tn
entire front of the building is shaded by an awning
blue and white canvas, while rows Of cotton woods
frnged with tho morning glory ana clenaiis ANA grca
beds Of stately dahlias, enhance the scene Peopin
modestly from the grould mignonette makes the al
fragrant. Immediately opposite Is the kitchen an
| dining room. Tho walk leading from the kitche
to the cellar is covered with tho most pcturesqe chi
nese awning. To the right are the houses IA
the storing OF wool purchased of the Nava1Os III
| richest Indians In tho country. On the left IL til
museum, the centre Of attraction to all Interested
chronological Studies or Indian curos The cOllcetio
of ancient pottery Is superb. When Mr.. X. dispose
of this valuable collection trust that the Government
win not permit 1t to cross tho waters. II Is of specii
interest 10 our own students OF North American eth
nOOgy. Returning TO the bachelors quarters on
finds the most aesthetic taste displayed. Think &
arepares ornamented with margin tiles bearing odd
est Indian dosigns tinted walls capped with fIiezes
laid Ia pink and blue grounds. with lilies and sun
nowers pictures and curtains 10 correspond; the cnl
tain rings OF pure silver; lamps suspended by chair
| VI hiNti DaHgitas IHl
| and table, covers OF rare Navajo blankets. Margi
plaques adorn the walls and In acoyes stand pedest
| holding ancient yascs-al veFy beautiful.
) Mr. heam mas Ito gneet cook IN tho country an
when we sit down to u dinner 0f hye OF siS cOuTs,
served IN choice porcelain and silver. exclaim TIA
| Is rOughiny II with q vengeance. Mr. Keam WI
absent from home when we arrived. but were mac
welcome by his friends, MIR. Stephen the oleyerest
scltchmen, and Mr.. MGElmoll, who 60Nn hanishe
every remaining atom OF our ideas 0f Western Tancl
men by lhoir bright witticisins and Intelligent di
courses; and yet these men have spent the best yea
OF their life remote from Eastern civilization NJ
Keam, accompanied by MIR. j. Stanley brown, of Il
chronological bureau, arrived here last night, aud 4
morrow We are of for Canon de Chiefly. n. e. 3.
planets in October.