Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1882-04-20
Lady Harbefton,s Reform Dress.

Lady Harberton's Reform Dress.
From the London Standard.
What may be done toward abolishing the
manifold small Inconvenience, as well as the
graver, because more Injurious defects in
female garb, we have just been shown par
TALLY. at least by the 'NatlOnal Health Societys
Exhibition of Hygienic Wearing Apparel" held
last week in the Cavendish rooms No. 81
Mortimer street. 1t attracted throngs of
feminine visitors, VIII seattentiOn had probably in
m ost cases been directed to it by Mr. Treve's
lecture at Kensington, Of which the exhibition
is intended to be practical illustration The
great object Of observation and comment was
the ''divded skirt" of which there were many
specimens in various cOl0rs and materials. The
Rational Dress Society" issues the following
description of the skirt it advocates:
'Tne divided skirt is a skirt divided between
the legs SO as to clOthe each leg separately the
underclOthing to be arranged beneath this as
most convenient 1t should come to about the
instep. quite clearing the ground and be made
about yard round at the ankle. An ordinary
street dress is worn over this, which may be as
much or as little trimmed as the wearer may
fancy. although, to secure lightness the less the
better.
1.-THE divided skirt may appear under the top
skirt about two or three inches without exciting
the least notice.
1.-THE divided skirt and the under garments
may be fastened to broad band fitted round
the hips, SO avoiding pressure of any sort round
the waist; or, if preferred, hooks or buttons
can be placed on calico bodice to be attached
to correspond ng loops on the skirts. The top
part of the dress may be any loose body or
jacket the wearer may choose, always avoiding
bands. ltgatureS, or pressure Of any sort from
below the fixed ribs to the top of the hips.
I'm this costume the weight of clothing may
be reduced at least One-half. because as the d.
vided skirts cover the body fully and evenly.
fewer layers Of clothing are required, and less
material in their construction We have here a
style Of dress by which no internal organ can be
injured, no muscle cramped, no movement of
the body impeded. and to which the wearer may
add as much grace and beauty as her own good
taste may direct"
Two complete costumes. designed BY this So
ciety, which took the silver medal at Brighton
exhibition. were on view. Both are made with
the divided skirt, one with a loosely fronted
body, surmounted by an open zouave jacket;
the other has long 'Princesse Polonaise" with
| a wastband. lady clad in one of the divided
skirts was most patiently and courteously eXhib-
iting it to surrounding visitors. Among its
advantages, she mentioned that she had
worn it for some months past as a
walking dress, without attracting remark of
any sort. She found the dress very handy in
dirty weather, as the skirt followed the move
ment of each forward foot independently. and
was not liable to be stretched and soiled, like
an ordinary skirt, against the muddy heel OF
the wearers other boot. 1t can be so looped up
as to form a short dress for walking, while tor
indoor use it may hang at full length Most
women who are in the habit of walking for any
considerable length of time together, or who
have gone over rough ground in rough weather,
must. when tOiling against the force Of the wind
and the weight of cumbersome pettic0ats, their
steps often impeded by a narrow, clinging skirt,
have envied the ease and rapidity with which
husband or brother, or even a little sister,
still young enough to be allowed the free action
of her limbs. moved over the same road enjoy
ing the walk which was spoilt for the full
grown woman by the fatigue, irritation and
discomfOrts of her dress, and the consciousness
of the clumsy figure presented by tapping pet
| ticoats fringed with mud. Perhaps the vision
of approaching stiles that must be clambered
over in fettered. awkward fashion did not lessen
her annoyance. If the divided skirt" does not
remedy all these Inconvenience, it is at least
one step toward modifying them. 1t offers far
less resistance to wind, and gives greater free
dom to the step. Its warmth is greater than
that Of an ordinary dress, and not even fall
can disarrange its position, SO that petticoats
| are no more required, though anything needed
for increased warmth can be worn beneath it
without involving useless weight.