New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1882-11-19
CONSISTENCY IN COSTUME.

from The London Daily Ne,rs.
{ The beauty OF consistency was TIL few years ago
women of the present century IN nyand. To
wear perfectly plain bodice IN company With "a
skirt whose gathers were lnconvenIently super
abundant lncong gritty universal shat
those who. in advance or their time. dared To asS
what was supposed to become OF the fulness which
SD abruptly ceaha I'd at the waist were considered 90
be curl0usiy hypercrltical II. undaunted by
snubs an lnqurIGe mind OF this order had askel
what was the motive of fringe or lace stretched
plain as trimming upon skirt. without pOssi-
blilty of appearing 10 terminate anything tho
owner OF the interrOeativc mind IN question would
undOn Dtedly have been sOt down a. " odd "A term
of repTOtch which conveyed more severity in those
days than 1t does now. As regarded color. matters
wero worse still On great state OCCASION the
Empress Eugene WOKE a green dress, yellow
mantle and red bonnet. the shades OF these col0rs
being. mast probably. glaringly brilliant Her
taste was considered unlmpeachable. and the cas-
tune in question, dstended as Il was over an euor-
nous hoop, was praised by tue chrOniccrs OF the
period as brilliant and elective"
Without unduly praislng the reignins modes.
which have many faults, 1t may be claimed for
them Uhas they display IN many respects a due rc-
gard for consistency. Frlnges are placed only
where they are pendant from an edge. Lace has
been misused. perhaps, IN the matter OF skirts
where one ilounre is placed above another through
ont the entire length. This however, IS Dut an Il
OF the faulty carrying out OF the original con-
cpptlOn The theory OF such q skirt IL that each
lace houuce represents the edge of skirt shorter
than, aud falling over. the one beneath. When the
lace is ~ iiluy manipulated this deception decep-
by the art which hides ITSELF ~ arti~tica!ly SUE
ccssful, and IN order 70 place Il above suspicion
each ii0Gnce Of the lace should be finely aud iri-
prrcepiIbly mounted uDUu net 81 "A mesh resembling
that of the lace. l ne succeeding nOunce wOu.d
fall over this net and even slightly over the lace
itself the latter being in no case sewed To tho ioun
datl0n. THIS snail precautIon Is TOO frequently
neglected. There was a time when buttons werr
used bV the gross = trimming They We're sewei
on anything and every wh ere d9|a tAe middle ana
up the sides. on either front OF 2 Jacket ana
thickly bestIewing the sleeves Clever. indeed,
was that gIr considered who arranged her buttons
in Vandykes round her dress, and er skill WAS vol
advertised by the terrific noise made IN church hY
her very original trimming. lt never occurred 10
an FOne that buttons should have some plausible eX
cuse Tor being III any given place. In pepperinS
them all over q costume the Pepperer should have
been equally liberal with small tabs and buttOu-
holes Then the buttons conid at least have pre-
tended To be useful beautiful and novel trim
ming has been devised by q French male nd sis-
ceptIble 10 millinery influence and inspiration.
own GARMENTS could never, never be adOruei By 70.
gave tn the world the spleL ldy successful Idea 0i
fringe composed partly OF chenille and partly ot
oxidzed silver II is certainly both graceful and
euectiye. and, like embroidery, is too costly 10 DO
within the reach Of the multitude.
The furrier's art has now placed consistency with
climatic variations within the reach or almost all
The da ily gOverness trudging her firing round can
envelop herself IN delightful furry dread
noughr' at trhlug cost. In her hand may occg-
siOnally be observed small satchel. which ~ a
pleasant mystery Of comfortable contriV ancs.
Opened. IL reveals itself as turlined foot warmer,
which enables It's fortunate pOssessor 10 smile
superior TO the lukewarn uncertainties and slip
perry movements of the railway variety. rs well a.
tho arbitrary irregularities OF the great untIppel
who control their Distribution. The fashionable
fur cape has this year ASSUMED some novel forms.
entirely consistent with its character comforter
and conscleT under stress OF weather. One 81 these
varieties forms sort of mantle. coming well below
tho waist and provided with kangaroo sleeves,
which protect the arms without robOing the body
of neat a. IN the primary cape Another new
form IL that which fastens up the back, thus most
electualy protecting the chest and lungs.
A good illustration of consistent simplicity re
Iieved by a juilicous admixture Of fennne adorn-
nent is afforded by the Redfern dress wnich Mrs.
Langtry prepared for her landing III New York. II
IL OF dark blue serge. fitting as perfectly 90
tailor made garments OF the KIND. and il provided
with small walstcOat showing perpendicular
lines, closely set, of gold braid upon scarlet
ground. IN one side OF this wastcOat Is tie Union
Jack and on the other the Stars and Stripes of the
Land of the West. These adOrnments, appropriate
enough for the OCCASION removable.