Morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven [Conn.]) 1848-1894, 1882-08-12


merce is still Furnishing Its wealth be-
comes especially evident when we drive
| along the Alster basin and see the magnif.
cent private villas of the merchant princes
of the North. We are loath to leave beauti
full Hamburg but the sun does not wait and
80 onward we go.
Saturday, the 9th of June we leave
| Hamburg for Copenhagen via Kiel and Kor-
soer. We cross the Schleswig- Holstein.
| The soil is fiat, but well cultivated In Kiel
we CT oss the Belt by boat to Korsoer, and
heaGe by rail to Copenhagen, where we ar
II ee late at night. Our Sunday in Copen-
'Iagen is very pleasant We almost fancy
!, ourselves at home, it is SO quiet, peaceful.
! Not a shop is open. We attend church,
| plain room with few wooden seats but the
place is full of people. AS the familiar
words of the Anglican liturgy drop from the
! lips of the venerable old minister our hearts
are filled with joy at the thought that the
| same God lives here and is worshiped here
| who cheers the other side of the At
| lantlc. After service make visit to
| Thor waldsen museum. Well may he be
called Thor" for he is god in his works,
| grand and sublime sculptures filling large
| square building the result of one chisel, one
brain and one hand. His Triumph of AL.
| exander,' q magnificent bas relief, and
''Christ and His Twelve Apostles" in life,
| size, strike US as the most beautiful. Christ
| is blessing the people. 1t is wonderful how
marble can express SO much love, pity and
| sympathy The building is square, with a
| court, in the midst of which stands plain
| tomb covered with ivy, emblem of the im
| mortality of the fame of him who there
| rests from his labors.
1t is here in Copenhagen that we begin to
have long twllights. Their effect is very pc
| culiar and somewhat exhilarating. Sleep
does not come, neither fatigue nor WEAKNESS
is felt, and when at last, toward one in the
| morning, we retire for rest, are obliged
| to darken the room to create at least an iliu-
sorry darkness. On the Goth we leave Co
| penhagen for Christiania via Goetteburg
| The weather is fine. 1t is sail of twenty
| two hours and none too long. The Cattegat
| is studded with islands, and on entering the
Skagerack the scenery becomes more and
/ more picturesque. The sun sets at 92O, a
magnificent sunset lighting up the many is
lands The Skagerack reminds us of the
| st. Lawrence and the Thousand Islands. At
three the sun rises again and we retire for
| the night. In the morning we come in view
of Christiania whose bay is one of the finest
in the world Navigation must necessarily
| be difficult here. The city spreading along
| the Fjord is very fine irdeed. After Copen-
hagen Christiania seems dull. The hotel is
| comfortable. We experience to-day our first
warm weather. We have SO0 at noon. The
irives along the Fjord afford great enjoy
ment.
On the goth we start for Throndiem, from
where we will take the boat which is to con-
| Portable, stopping frequently, allowing pas
sengers to alight and stroll about, gather
| flowers and then resume their journey. The
| road follows the windings of the Glommen,
whose shores covered with hills. We
| rise to an altitude of 5000 feet. The Their
mometer is at 50 and we shiver with cold
| The hills whose feet covered with dark
pine mingled with silver BIRCH form a beau
| tiful contrast of light and shade. The sum-
init of these very hills is not unfrequently
| covered with snow. The water reflects hills
and clouds in most admirable manner.
The Glommen winds its way through the
| Mijisen, lake nine and half Norwegian
miles long. We stop at Hamar for lunch
| Everybody helps themselves. Salmon is the
main dish, and rothe gritze with hide, sort
of red blanc mango, with cream our dessert
| The bells ring and onward we go. The SUM-
set that night was glorious. Its rays bright
en- the snow clad hills which are partly re-
| fected in the water of the Gula. Late in
the evening we stop at Tonset, little ham
| let. Passengers, conductors, engineers and
| trains all stop for few hours sleep. Those
| who have not secured rooms beforehand are
| obliged to sleep in the cars. Our hotel is
| somewhat primitive, but very clean. Even
| here we find maids who speak French and
English. Norwegians as rule are well edu-
Gated. 1t is SO light that we prefer to enjoy
| ramble and only retire about two o'clock.
At six in the morning of the 3Oth we move
| on, going down through the valley of the
Gula. AS we approach Throndjem in the af-
ternoon the panorama is peculiarly grand.
Imagine a city winding along beautiful
| Fjord and leaning against a seven fold am
! phitheatre of hills towering one above the
other. This is Throndiem. The city has a
| thoroughly northern character and is very
| clean. The houses are very clean and even
| the poorest are decorated with curtains and
| flowers. The cathedral, built in the twelfth
| century, is very interesting. A Christ, copy
| Of do r. Ic
| life size and the light which strikes it through
the green tinted windows is of very fine eff
| feet and gives warmth to the marble. To-
| ward L go on board and at midnight our
ship president Christie sets sail for the
North Cape. Now, expected, comes
the toughest part of the trip, that which
| may perhaps most try our patience. The
| boat is crowded and on the morning of the
I'd of July drizzly rain chills US through
/ and makes rather low-spirited. But we
| do not grumble. One of our party, named
| the Philosopher, cheers us by his philosophy
! cal exhortations to patience, and the first
Sunday passes quietly, though unpleasantly.
| However, a fellow-feeling makes one Won
drous kind. The rain melts the ice of Ell
quette characteristic of the English, and
| even without introduction gradually be-
come acquainted with our fellow travellers.
Towards midnight we reach the famous
| rhorgatten SO much spoken of by Du Chail.
! lu. 1t is natural tunnel cut in the rock
| 225 feet high and 60 wide. The rain has
| subsidized, but the sky is still lowering We
go on shore, guided by a sailor, to attempt
the ascent. The climbing is rather difficult,
| for the road g SO you may call it, leads
| among almost inaccessible rocks and deep
| crevices These are studded with lovely
| fowerets. 1t is one of the greatest charms
| OF the North that everywhere the foot treads
on daisies, buttercups, ETC., even where all
| other vegetation ceases. When reached
| our destination we were more than repaid
| for what saw. Such sight will never
be forgotten and involuntarily the German
| poets words came to my mind, Whom God
| wishes to favor he sends into the wide, wide
| world" 1t was one o'clock in the morning.
| The little boats furrowing the water, in the
| distance our steamer. the sea of a greenish
color transparent like brook, and those
barren and steep rocks lighted up by the
rays of the sun just trying to break through
the clouds on the horizon, was very original
| and grand The tunnel is in itself wonder
| full, cut in the rock and fringed out as it
| were. We retire rather fatigued but well re-
| warded
The Sd of July is at hand. Everybody is
full of expectation, the Arctic Circle is
passed, and if the weather is clear we may
for the first time to day see the Midnight
| Sun. At Bode go ashore, small town of
| l, 800 inhabitants, wooden houses but cheer
| full looking. The weather is still threaten.
ing The sun is hidden behind a cloud, but
| colors. At $50 have supper, hastily
taken so as to lose nothing of the Alpine
scenery, whose beauty is still enhanced by
| the sea. The clouds would even add to the
beauty of the landscape were it not for the
dread which mars our hopes. But finally a
| light wind rises, and, as if touched by q
fairy wand they gradually rise and reveal us
the sun in all its splendor, not dim, not
| darkened, but radiant as at noon, standing at
| an hours distance from the horizon. 1t is
twenty minutes to midnight and watch in
hand we make our observations. The lumi
nary seems at standstiil. Proudly and su-
perbly it's rays shine while in the South
| the pale moon strives in vain to draw our at
tention. Time proceeds. 1t is five minutes
to twelve, and as if DESTROYS to salute the
great day which makes every American heart
beat with joy, the sun shines in all its glory
on our Fourth of July. Thanks to the 10y
atty of an American citizen, all Americans on
board had been gathered in the prov; at the
stroke of twelve the colors were hoisted, the
bell rang and here on the Arctic Ocean a
hearty cheer was brought to the land of the
brave and the free. Then the Englishmen