The Republican journal., 1881-09-15
Letter from New Mexico.

SANTA FL, \. NJ Aug. /, 1881.
EDITOR JOURNAL: 1t was nearing twilight
The day had been warm and the sky cloudless
Turning quickly to the right from the main line
of the great continental road, the A. I. d S. F. K.
r., the train entered a region of unsurpassed
beauty 10 the left slept the low hills of the
Cerios range beyond them the San Dia noun
tains, mellow in the approaching gloom and to
the right the beautiful Jemez Peaks, already dark
ened by the clouds of coming storm. Dashing
from the white capped Santa Fe range the storm
came IN all the grandeur of elemental warfare.
Every pulsation Of the throbbng engine could be
distinctly felt whlrled around the side of the
mountain, The darkness deepened and in mo-
ment the clouds burst and the hurricane swept
across the broad basin and darted over and beyond
the mesa encrcling the river, But in an instant
the sun broke through the drifting clouds in
blaze of glory and then sank slowly behind the
far Oft range, tnging the sky with a supernatural
beauty, lending roseate hues to the silent peaks,
and forming picture worthy the artists most en-
chanting dreams. In moment more
in Santa Fe where the descendants of Spanish
cavaliers and the children Of the Purtans meet as
citizens Of one republic, and harmoniousy
weaving the fabric Of free government
The journey hither from Ration had been IN
tensely interesting At some points the whole
country was aboom with wild flowers and seas OF
gorgeous color Hooded hill and mesa and valley.
Here were harebells and buttercups and daisies
pretty native children of these western wilds as
delicate and more beautiful than their Eastern Sis
ters There were white tassels made up of little
bell shaped flowers almost like the lily OF the val
ley, but growing shrubs, and pretty yellow
blossoms like the lowering currant hawthorne
blossoms shaded from white to pink and wild
sweet peas and columbne. In one small valley,
where the waters from the mountains had swept
down and distributed the seeds of the mountain
verbena,
A COMPACT MASS or FLOWERS
extended from hill to hill ana as gentle breeze
rpped their surface one was reminded Of nothing
but softly 1owing river of royal purple, hecked
here and there with golden yellow blooms
What queer old town i is, this collection OF
adobe nuts called Santa Fe 1t seems protane to
smile and obe IN the midst OF Its hoary antiquity
and only the measured tread of Alexandrue syI
ables is suited to its venerable walls Granting
that the Aztec chiefs once walked its streets, and
here scenes that old when Columbus
sighted the Western continent old when Charlie
magne hattled with giants in ;he tabled ollen
time old when Christ walked the obedient
But to-day wonderful change is taking place
where a few years ago the principal object TO be
seen some lazy senior smoking the national
cigarette. and complaceutly summing himself out
side his door, now is heard the sweet music OF
hammer and saw.
To be explicit. Santa Fe contains population
OF 5000 IS situated Oh plateau surrounded by
mountains and is at elevation of 1,0l5 feet
The houses are chiefly adobe, pastered on the eX
terror i'll some instances and whiewaShed N the
interior The common adobes, occupied by the
lower ass resemble deserted brick kiln They
are very comfortable, being warm IN winter and
cool in summer, and when plastered, painted aud
pencilled really look quite neat, The hotels are
SIMPLY row of rooms built around placita or
court, opening both to the placta and the street
There are many places of intereSt-the plaza, con
tanning monument erected in memory OF the
New Mexican soldiers that fell during the battles
OF Nalverde and Goretta IN 1862. and in the In
dian wars the old cathedral of San Miguel, built
by the Franciscan fathers in lnj2 partially de-
stroyed in the Pueblo revolt. and rebuilt by de
Vargas the oldest house in the city. old when
Coronado was alive; the new cathedral tine stone
structure the bishops garden. where grow luscious
peaches Juicy pears, and toothsome grapes the
stone convent OF the Sisters OF Loretta the SIS
teI's hospital; old IT, Marcy. built by Gen Kear-
ney in lSi6; the old cemetery, where sleeps the
headless body Of ten. Perez the Masonic bury.
ing ground last resting place of Gov Bent who
was killed at the Taos revolt in lSt Guadalupe
chapel: and the governors palace. Concerning
these enough descriptions have been written to
fill a library The plaza contains three or four
acres and is occupied by handsome shade trees
The palace resembles a great tumbledow New
England country house. 1t has been the seat Of
government for more than two centuries, and is
still occupied such 1t is always in a chronic
state Of repair. san Miguel church is the Oldest
OF the old 1t is built Of adobe in style of archi
lecture it resembles five large boxes of dried mud
placed each on the other. each box smaller than
the one on which it rests. The front yard is filled
with graves. and even the interior of the church
was onee used for intermeut
Inc streets oi Santa e are very narrow, OureIS
wide enough tor two teams to pass. The men who
walk these streets are for the most part clad in
American costume although the sombrero and red
sash are frequently visible. The clean
| ~ and sometimes tasetully dressed The Amer
can business element is quite large, and every one
seems to be making money.
| But although Santa Fc is an interesting place il
is not New Mexico, He who would see it as it has
always been must visit 1t soon, tor since the
Atehison, Topeka Il Santa Fe railroad has stretch
ed its long iron arms down into that portion of the
country great changes are taking place. Passing
| down that iron artery OF commerce the famous
! Rio traude valley is shortly reached. The valley
varies in width spreading out IN places amt
breaking INTO gentle uudulauons as it recedes
! from the river, until the broad green pillows seem
| to roll against the misty mountain leagues away.
Then again, it narrows until the rugged ranges on
either side are within stone throw from the
| rivers bank The Ro Grande III its sluggish
march to the guilt shifts from one side to the other
as If picking It's way like a careful girl The vol
une OF water .luctuates some seasons over leap
| ing the ow bank at others shrinking till you can
walk across the channel IN places without moist
ening The soles of your shoes. This valley from
the Mcslla valley TO the gulf has d grape produe
ing capacity equal to that of France. Grapes are
! grown in Mesilla in great abundance and Of superl-
OF quality both for table use and wine making 4
vineyard in full bearing produces from POO to
1000 gallons OF wine to the acre annually, The
first crop realized the third year. and increases
annually until the maximum six years-s reach
| ed. This maximum is gallon of wine to the vine,
and the then good for this regular yield for
fifty years. The expense of caring for vineyard
after once planted is comparatively insignificant,
not reaching five cents per vine in vineyards of
five thousand vines This includes care of the vine
| yard dining the entire year and the making of the
wine ready for the barrels The quality and flavor
of the wine depends upon the care bestowed upon