The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-10-07
GHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
Bonnets and Hats.

Openings of millinery at fashionable houses
confirm the announcement made early in the
season that the picturesque will prevail in
millinery, but that while large pokes and
round hats are shown in great numbers, the
small bonnets and becoming turbans also lind
favor There can be no definite rule about
these shapes, as large bonnets are not limited
to large heads for they are sometimes particu-
larly becoming to small ladies; the face alone
decides the matter, and in the great variety of
shapes shown, something is easily found to
suit each physiognomy. The poke bonnets
are greatly improved in shape by the small
tapering crown now used instead of the broad
flat crown, like that of an old lady's bonnet,
worn when they were first introduced; indeed,
nothing can be more coquettish than these
quaint pokes, arranged as they now are to
leave the small sloping crown quite prominent
and bare, and mss all the trimming on the
brim. The most youthful looking pokes have
the brim covered or edged with down, or fur
or plush with a very long pile while the crown
is of smooth plush or of moleskin velvet. This
is beautiful in dark green, brown, bronze or
garnet pokes to match costumes, with full,
furry edge that is SO becoming to every face;
and for trimming bird is p aced close against
the left side of the brim. or a panache Of feath-
er tips and on the right side two small bands
like folds of plush pass toward the back of the
crown. where they are fastened to an orna-
ment of old silver. For dress bonnets this de-
sign is carried out in white, pink, or pale blue
plush that has moire marking upon it for the
smooth small crown, while the brim is covered
with pearl lace or else white Spanish lace in
which are two or three rows OF great white
beads cut in facets the strings are also of this
lace; and for ornaments there are half dozen
humming-birdG placed in a row, to show the
brilliant hues of their breasts and throsts.
There are also Marie Stuart pokes entirely
covered with pearl lace, with feather tips for
their trimmings, but fewer white or light dress
bonnets are shown than usual, as dark bonnets
are known to be- most becoming, and are OF
such rich fabrics that they are dressy enough
for most occasions. A novel trimming laid on
the outside of the brim and below the crown Is
three full frills Of unc1t velvet laid double,
fully gathered and overlapping: These rutties
effective when made OF the glace velvet show
ing two colors, one Of which is the plain velvet
showing two colors one of which is Id the plain
velvet that covers the crown; thus brown
changeable uncut velvet, and the edge OF the
brim has gathered binding like puff made
of red uncut velvet. Ribbon OF uncut Velvet
on one side and satin on the other forms
square bow low on the left side, and there are
three tips of ostrich feathers at the top. An
other poke that points down on the forehead
instead of projecting above 1t has the orlm COW
cred with lophophore feathers while the crown
is green velvet. There are also black lace
pokes of the new heavy guipure silk lace with
1,o iafO alO and
the strings, while black ostrich tips are the
only TRIMMINGS; a bow of narrow moire RIBBON
ties the lace strings below the throat. Anota-
er black poke OF real Spanish lace has two rows
of large Jet beads that are made TO droop anu
dangle on the edge of the brim. A olack ielt
poke that has fur-beaver Drlm mas Two rows
of Spanish lace on the outside OF TINS orim;
The bows on pokes are very Hat and have
long loops-either TWO or four loops-of double
faced ribbon, and one edge OF this rlooon is
folded over SO that both faces are seen. Moire
ribbon with satin or plush back is very etfec-
tive for such bows These bows are placed
far back just on the top of the crown, wi
the middle closely strapped and loop
falling toward each side OF the crown
or else both loops are long and extended down
the right side, while the left has plnache OF
pompon OF feathers. Another fancy IS ior
bow with very long loops placed with tne ssiap
close to the brim on top, and loops extenolng
far down the left side. A stylish ana uselul
small poke of black beaver has double DOW OF
black ribbon-satiD on one side aud more on
the other-placed at the top OF the crown, and
falling close upon it, Two jet turtles fasten
the loops down. a small black panache is on
the left side a row of black faceted beads half
an inch in diameter is on the outside OF the
brim. Strings are bowed up close to the throat
without long hanging ends Bias velvet or
plush, hemmed and not lined, is ased for
strings as well as ribbon.
The great round hats of plush, felt, or beav-
er are much larger than any yet worm 1hey
are like the picturesque hats worn by players
i'm old comedies and have forests OF feathers
that droop and nod with every motion OF the
we,rer Tne tapering crowns are also seen on
these hats and are usually in bold relief, with
the trimmings of feathers aud OF plush massed
on the wide brim. Sometimes the edges are
nlain and the brim is so broad that a peating
three inches wide of doubled velvet is sswed
inside the brim, beginning where the crown