The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-03-17
Paris Fashions.


Correspondence of Harper's Bazar.1
The sudden changes of temperature which
keep us oscillating between freezing and mod
crate weather retard the development of the
coming fashions No sooner does the sun shine
out, making us think of Spring dresses, than a
return of bitter cold makes us hug our Winter
furs, and take no heed for the future.
1t is certain that, as regards wrappings,
small mantes are destined to be the leading
style. Already, for a few weeks past, visites
have made their appearance, with long tabs in
front, and loose sleeves; but instead of being
full in the back they are quite closely adjust
ed. Satin merveilleux, formerly called Surah,
and Bengaline, which is almost precisely like
the Siciienne of former times, will be the ma
terials used for wrappings Satin merveilleux
in all cclors will compose most or rather all
the dresses for Spring and Summer that will
be made of silk. For combinations, which are
still in favor, brocaded stuffs, entirely different
from the materials with which they are associ-
ated, will be employed with a plum or seal
brown skirt, damasse with an old gold or blue
ground, and colored designs will be used for
the basque and sleeves. Large formal designs
in the Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. styles will
be replaced-but only for stuffs designed for
unceremonious toilettes-by stripes with small
flowers in the Louis XVI. style. Foulards,
linens and percales are particularly adapted to
this kind of designs. 1t is said that certain
leaders of the ton intend to wear dresses made
of cotton cretonne with large flowers, like that
used for curtains. Even if this fashion is
aIA ,faA viii laa ~.
chateaux and luxurious country houses, since
one would hardly be likely to sport lowered
cretonne dresses in an omnibus or street car.
Large white collars of linen batiste are more
than ever in vogue, and will continue to be so
during the summer. They are worn by young
girls on all occasions. For evening, and for
older ladies, they are made of guipure, point
de Venise, point d'Aguille, point d'Angleterre
etc.; all these laces, of greater or less thickness
are very becoming and set off the dress with
which they are worn. Many of these collars
are fastened with tabs that are tied in front.
People are beginning to think of change of
residence: consequently travelling toilettes
made of stuffs that will endure hard usage are
in preparation. A dress of this kind is now max
for yonng bride is of Limousine light
woollen fabric with brown ground and old
gold and garnet stripes about finger wide
and some little distance apart. The short
princesse dress is trimmed on the bottom with
deep pleated founce, under which are set
two balayeuses, one of old gold and the other
of garnet, which just peep from beneath the
skirt The over-skirt was made cross
wise of the stuff, consequently with
the stripes running in horizontal
SC arClr,rf III oh,
piece, fell very low on one side; the other side,
on the contrary, was draped very high on the
hip, forming large pleats those of the bottom
being turned upward so as to show the brown
silk lining. Behind, the over-skirt formed
boutfant draperies, with which it seems inn
possible to dispense. A jacket of the same
material, with very long S5irtse buttoned
straight from the throat, with collar, cuffs and
pocket flaps of dark garnet plush, completed
the costume.
tremely elegant. Here is a charming one made
by Worth: Of brocaded gauze, black with
satin flowers, black satin and tulle, and black
lace. The brocaded gauze corsageI was cut
square in the neck, with Henri III. collar and
plastron covered with jet embroidery. The
neck was bordered with jet lace set on plain.
The sleeves were slashed from the top to
the bottom about two fingers wide, and
the opening was filled in with tulle en-
broidered with jet, sufficiently transparent to
show the arm. The black satin underskirt
was covered by skirt of black tulle pleated
founces. The over-skirt of brocaded gauze
opened over this skirt and was ornamented
with scarfs trimmed with lace beaded with jet.
Each flounce of the tulle skirt was trimmed
with five rows of narrow black satin rib
bouffant drapery of the back breadth; this
train, which was made of black tulle, was en-
tirely covered with black Chantilly lace
hounces, each headed with jet lace. A large
cluster of red roses trimmed the corsage and
hair.
A pretty visiting toilette of raisin de Coriathe
satin merveilleux had long skirt, edged on
the bottom with narrow pleated fiounce, from
beneath which peeped pale pink Surah bala-
yeuse. The front was ornamented with tab
lier formed of two pleated flounces, making a
small angle in the middle, and surmounted by
large pleats. Stimulating scarfs. For a wrapping
was a visite of black brocade with large velvet
flowers trimmed with black chenille fringe.
The sleeves of the visite were furnished with
black satin cuffs, pleated horizontally and fall
ing some two inches below the sleeves A Cor
responding trimming of black satin, pleated
perpendicularly, was set down the middle of
the back. Bonnet of satin like the dress, with
a velvet bandeau of the same color in front,
resting ON slender gold circlet; little back
of this was a half-wreath of full-blown pink
roses, pressed close together, and without
leaves. The crown was of gold-lace the satin
strings were edged with narrower gold-lace
across the bottom and up the sides to the tying
of the bow.
Gold-lace, moreover, is more than ever
in vogue, and is worn everywhere. For
instance, there is seen, as a variety of
small and large cravat bows, squares of
black and gold lace about eight inches
in dimensions, which are worn in the follow
ing manner one corner is fastened at the
throat or to the upper part of the waist by
lace pin, the two following ones are spread out
and fastened on the bust, and the lower one is
pleated up to suit the caprice of the wearer.
This forms pretty adjunct to black or dark
dress. The same lace is also used for poufs to
be worn in the hair. A pretty arrangement is
made of cluster of scarcely opened rose buds,
almost hidden in bunch Of gold lace, and fas-
tened on the top of the head by green and
gold beetle. These beetles are all the rage;
they are made of magnificent pearls, their
wings glittering with diamonds, opals and Lab
radorites
Little girls will wear for the spring pretty
long jackets cut away about two inches in front
so as to show the dress. Three ribbons are
fastened on each side, from the throat to the
waist, which are tied in bows, without draw
ing the jacket together. These jackets are
trimmed with guipure lace set on plain. or else
with embroidery; on beige cloth or cashmere
the embroidery is of gold; and on gray cloth.