Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-04-30
FASHIONS FOR MAY.

FASHIONS FOR MAY.
The Princesse Dress in the Ascendant
"A Moulded Waist-A Dainty
TrOusSe8u-LaCe As q Garniture-
study I'm White and Blue Novel;
ties.
From Our Oton Correspondent
NEW YORK. April 20.
Now that the ''openings" and E aster," and
other events which are supposed to exercise an
occult influence on the dress OF women are
among the things Of the past fashions for a
time may be considered to be decided, IL any
decision could be arrived at In regard TO a mat
ter governed by no laws, and subject to every
breath Of change from over the land or across
the sea, 30 that winds and waves cannot be
more uncertain-nor, for that matter, more Ger
tain to work within allotted limits. There Is
no revolution to chronicle this season, and lit =
tie OF novelty except In details. On the WHOLE
In the absence of the brick red and bright vel
low, the MADRAS" colors as they were called,
which proved 80 startling last season, the gen.
an 5 s more quaint and
returned to the hustle and hoped skirt abomi-
nations. With semi-annual regularity an
nouncements are made as feelers. stating
authOr1tatfvely that punched UP drapery has
been reinstated, and that bustles aud hoped
skirts are imminent. Such paragraphs are
OF course written In the interests OF the hoped
skirt and hustle trade which has never been
quite defunct. but at present there Is no truth
In them. The skirts are straight as ever,
and the one principle which Mr.. Charles Blanc
enunciated the French dress makers seem de-
teImlned to adhere to, and that is not to al
nit design that does not mould the waist
perfectly. All dresses and costumes, whether
whether expressed in the pure princes se form
the basque and skirt, or the prlncesse back
with belted front. in all these designs a
smooth outline is preserved over the hips, and
this line. The ''b0om" In bustles is very much
like the boom In some other thtngs-it has not
taken place. II women are to credited with
or progressive ideas, It never will
The short dress is almost universal for sum
mer wear, quite excepting among class OF dig
tain age who consider train necessary to their
position. and few others who insult summer
by trailing over 1t the relics of their last win
are nearly all short, and much prettier and
more summary looking in consequence It has
always been asserted, and the declaration has
been accepted as fact by many people. that
tournureS and trimming and drapery were an
essential part OF the short dress, that the long
dress could be made plain and graceful but the
short dress must be trimmed and draped aud
punched and extended. But famous Ameri-
can said the way to do thing was to do it; and
1t is so with the short plain SKIRT it Is done 1t
Is worn, and instead OF common looks quaint
and picturesque.
In these days, in fact, plainness of itself Is
very apt to look distinguished. Cultivated
taste more and more seeks to express itself In
that which Is rich, solid and true in material
and plain In design. Elaboration and display
are becoming more and more the badge OF
the cheap and tawdry.
FINE TROUssKAU.
A glimpse was obtained the other day OF D. art
Of an elegant trousseau during the process of
making. The feature of it was its excessive,
what was called its baby, fineness and neat
ness. All the articles were hand made. an the
SfjfctfDp 10
tuck1ng were a marvel Of daintiness, yet not
all fimsy or wanting in durability. Two
MSat IS casa CT e casn
was cream white. the other primrose pink
Both were hand embroidered entirely down
both sides Of the front. round the bottom and
upon the edge OF the sleeves. The front was
tied together with satin ribbons placed at In
tervals. Breakfast wrappers or "matinees" Of
pink and white foulard and rosebud foulard
were very different in appearance They were
and three rows deep Of white lace ruffling down
the front, round the bottom. upon the sleeves,
ard 6 forming deep round collar;
black surah silk. The skirt was OF satin aud
perfectly plain with the exception OF three
rows OF black and white Spanish lace ruffllng.
SHRED upon the back, upon the shoulders and
In 'front.' where it was brought down to point.
The lace upon this was put on In double ruf.
file, with ruched heading, and In cascades
down the front.
The fronts of the night dresses consisted OF
alternate rows OF tuckng and beautiful en-
broidery; or OF tucked linen cambria aad real
vallenciennes In leaf pattern. Round the
neck and down the front of these latter the
lace was gathered into full Shells which formed
soft cascade. The flannel skirts were EN-.
there we're six sets of surah silk underwear In
different untS-lemon pale blue, pink, hello.
trope. ivory and cream-all OF which were
trimmed with real vaIencienne5 In new and
charming feather
The amount of lace used In the trOusseau was
extraordinary, and 1t was all real. There were
no limitations. OF course all the trimming laces
used upon dresses and garments Were not
round point or even 'duchesse" but they were
real Breton or Languedoc, or fine torchon, but
no cotton limitations of Mechlin, Or point, or
flchus, hoods, capes and mantels OF white or
black Spanish lace, which Is not In reality
Spanish, but made In Normandy. Some were
Hubbard style. Others Wers Tied In 1I fron5 and
gathered at the back, the neck being finished
with full ruffies, and falling loops OF lace or
satin ribbon. Hoods and capes were tied at the
Spanish lace was lined with delicate shade of
hellotrope satin.
The hosiery was all in solid colors or tints In
silk or Isle threadS-some very finely open
worked and embroidered, but none with lacs
insertions or mixed colors. The handkerchiefs,
too, for day wear were of the finest, but they
olive Sege e and q The oHe
were of silky linen cambria exquisitely en-.
Dro1tereo. There were no lace, and, indeed
these are very seldom bought, SO many usually
come In the gifts made to bride.
ORDINARY OUTFITS.
A trousseau OF this description, made with
care and showing In every detail such refine
ment OF taste, Is more rare nowadays than
formerly. Thirty years ago all fine underwear
was hand made. and mothers superintendent tho
preparation OF their daughters bridal outfits, II
they did not assist In doing the sewing. Every
article in those days, and still more strictly In
the years of the half century that preceded
these, was arranged and laid away with loving
care until all were completed: and the tender
ness and motherhood thus tnwrought were
tal1sman, q safeguard ana benediction for the
years to come. That was q worthy outcome of
abundant means, of delicate tastes, of refined
habits; but what does wealth and what we Call
luxury" do now? It takes twice. thrice, i've
times the amount OF money, and goes to one of
the mammoth ladies' furnishing establishments
and buys a quantity Of ready-mada gar
ments, showily trimmed with plenty OF
to-be 1s delighted. She has wanted
just such things for years. Some OF
her friends have them. and there's so much
lace and ruf1ling everywhere. and they are so
cheap that she wonders, aud so does her Idle
and foolish mother, how any woman can be so
''silly" as to take the trouble to make or have
underwear made nowadays But 1t Is not too
much to say that the hundred dollars worth of