Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-05-07
Pork I'm France

French pork Is very peculiar meat The
vivacious Gaul Is immodera,ely fond of 1t; but
by the sturdy Briton 1t Is not usually coBsid-
cred palataole. He likes the form no more than
he does the flesh Of the Gallo pig, of which
there IL eztaut surprisingly faithful trans
cIlPt In one Of the first pictures painted So de
sixty five years ago by an English artist then
very young. named Edwin Landseer. TIE origt-
nal OF the pig In question resided, We believe
at Chelmsford; and 1t may Lave been with
equal curiosity AID contempt that the bluff
Essex calves" beheld the gaunt, scrubby long
shouted flop cared, low-quartered grey houn1
barrelled, long legged, limp tailed '.Mounseer.n
agricultural societies may have done much to
Improve the various breeds of pigs In France
since young Master Landseer painted his pic
thai f"e BREAKFAST bacon Is rareiy
to be met With In France. The richest
OF the fat bacon produced never makes IT'S ap-
minute ''spicuh" with which ..iricandeaux" are
lardeo; but thousands OF pounds weight Of fat
bacon are consumed In French kitchens for
hares for example, are covered with com plete
| envelope Of it while they are being roasted,
Whlle immense quantities OF lean bacon are
used In the preparation OF sauces. AS for the
! FreLch ham, which resembles more what we
| call cushion" Of bacon than It does the giant
hams of Yorkshire and Wiltshire, 1L Is assufedIy
thels IS, SO admirably cured as to be both sweet
| and tender; aud visit to the annual "Faire
| aux Jambons,' at the Barrlere du rrene will be
sufficient to prove that at least four III h. or
this ham ia OF French grOw With and manufacture.
IL is necessary in the interests OF sociology
th. t these facts should be brought to the front,
| since even In some usually we'll Informed Or
| CANS OF the Partisan press there would seem to
| b kind OF scare lest the continuance OF the
| government embargo On American pork should
prove the temporary ruin OF the French CHAR
| cutter" Nothing OF the sort, we conceive, need
| be apprehended. 1t would be matter OF gen
eral lamentation If anything were done to
W ma ton nf
| the charcutier." He Is not SO much a pork
butcher as pork confectioner-as exquisitely
skillfni in Disgusting the porc!ne flesh III an
almost endless variety of ways as was that
cock In the service OF Titus Quintus, the e o.
Ian, who, when an enraptured guest, after say
the twenty. seventh course at grand banquet.
complimented him on the versatility or the
cuisine. smllingly replied that ''he had eaten
nothing but pork" IL is true that the French
"chaTcutier" has occasionally known hard
times. In the twelfth century all swine what
soever were Danished from Paris for the reason
that an impetuous pig had run between the
legs OF horse bestridden by Philippe, grandson
In the sixteenth century the ''charcutiers" were
most prosperous guild, renowned for their
altful connection Of young pig that had been
AT that periOd they complained bitterly OF the
concurrence delOydle, or ''untradesmanllke''
competition OF the monks OF the Abbey OF st.
Antoine, who drove roaring trade in pork
pies, as succule lent, no doubt, as those mutton
pies or the manufacture OF which the nuns OF
the Convent OF santa Aguese, at Rome are
still so justly celebrated. The Paris CHAR
cutler Of the present era, however, may per-
haps be regarded as hghly-perfected spect-
men OF the pork confeotioner. Cleaning and
polished Is his marble counter. bright shine
his brazen scale and weights; white as snow
are the napkins on which repose his dainties
His little garlic sausages are so gracefully fes.
toned that they might form components OF
new order Of architecture; and very often his
door jambs are embellished With oil paintings
OF still l1te-pork always OF course, predont-
. Iating-executed by advanced students OF the
Ecole des Beaux Arts.-LOndOn Telegraph.