New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-10-24
THE FASHIONS.
STYLES FOR AUTUMN AND WTvrrp

| wEAR-HATS AND BoNNETS.
| From tune to time some mode of dressing and
material has been introduced admirably suited to the peo
pie among whom It has made its appearancew adapted
to the climate and the conditions of modern life graceful
easy beyond the of those in limited clrcum
stances when taken in its simplicity yet capable OF re-
cevng without injury the most costly and gorgeous EN-
beshments Of wealth. admirably answering the neces
stiles Of the day times, while preserving due regard
to the graces OF FORM Lately there is appeal going
the rounds OF England made BY the Countess OF Beehive
in which she eloquenty advocates the use OF English
wooen fabrics in preference to those of foreign make
The particular material especially recommended "a
alpaca. which has long been blackballed" here by
fashion.
The two dresses by the Countess at Bradford wero
alpaca "The black costume had skirt OF alpaca with
wide killing of box peats each pleat having narrow
watered ribbon edged with gold down the centre This
nounce twobrds of the skirt and is edged with
gold fringe, close Killed pleating Of alpaca
lying underneath the edge. The tunic Is formed by
double band of alpaca half yard deep, striped with
narrow black MORE ribbon and gold braid, and looped
up the back with large MORE bow This band only
reaches the hips where joins and the edge Of
the Jersey body, which is made plain and without
seam, and Is laced down in front with a gold cord
There were plain MORE sleeves, fitting quite tightly,
with many OF gold braid; the same trimming on
the tight MORE collar; and standing frih Of gold
fringe inside the collar The sleeves very short,
which might be objection, long gloves must inya-
raby be with them At the banquet in the evening"
Lady Beehive skirt of white velvet en- train,
deeply trimmed round the bottom with plisses of white
satin and innumerabe rows Of white point dAencon
lace q long overskirt which, however, completely
covered the back of the skirt did also the tabler
in front, that only at the sides could
the rich material OF the skirt be seen Both
taber and overskirt were made Of creamcoored mo-
hair trimmed with the same point dAencon lace
tight fitting waist OF the mohar cut low at the back and
shape in 'front.' finished with the same lace, and
wide waist belt and sash Of white satin ribbon TED on'
side, completed the costume"
VARIETIES OF ALPACA GOODS.
Naturally the Bradford alpacas and mohairs moi
the goods wearing rusty in few weeks OF that
These have yet only been revived in England
and il is possible may reach our shores still there
arc memories Of the mohairs briantines and soft silky
apaoas worn fashonaby here several years ago, when
gay again be revived. For those who find black sis
an impOssbity the ustrous alpaca now extinct made
most admirable substitute. As rule fine soft alpaca
is infinitely respectable tLan cheap silk, Ill dis
gused by any amount OF lace or giterng fringe OF jet
or iewelry that might be heaped upon it, As all soft
gracefully draping fabrics eagerly sought for by the
aesthetics creamy silky alpaca may perhaps, be permit
ted a position equal to serge, cashmere, Indian
tussorc Magpore silk, capable Of
long artistic sweep OF outline without rustic OF
stiffness. The Roman costume the perfection 81
elegance and when Caesar ell at the foot OF fompeys
statue his tailor provided him with the easy method Of
q manner OF grace anu simplicity!
COSTUMES FOR EsTHETIC MAIDENs.
However caricatured, the aesthetic gown triumph
OF artistic beauty when made ridiculous awkward
and ont of form. The perfectly plain gown made IN
prncesse shape without drapery hOunces, FILLING In
rich full folds needs only quaint sleeves and bodice cut
square, some rich old lace and ornaments Of medieval
style in silver; the harmonious eoIors OF the dun East
ern pink sage olive pale primrose yellow saffron, pea
cock blue, soft browns grays cream, amber are an.
ranged together different designs of different ages Sir
Peter Ley's portraits serve for models In another
portrait the lady flashes out in the mellow autumn
sunshine richly dressedn pale blle hrte and Persian
pink incrusatOns and yellow gold embroidered bodice
again in charming sky blue and rose-colond Vatican
gowns. like so many pieces OF animated Dresden
china The fashions OF SIR Godfrey kneuers quaint
coats and caps, and golden rings with rufs, and euns
| and farthngales ard thngs, ornaments and
initiating the armor of the dark ages, Carlo
Nhglah oIe-aAes' ''o iiid naiored With
alloys aud slender steel chains for holding up the
drapery There feather fans just disinterred
from oblivion, and quaint hre hanscreeus OF luted
green silk slipped in round cases Of striped gold aud
black fragrant wood TO hang az tue side by silver chains,
girdles and chateaines. Ddtodls and sunhowers COM
! plete the aesthetic adjoining.
ELEGANT MODERN COSTUMES
Some recent openings disclose modern costumes Of
great magnihcence in fantastic richness of ornament
aud bright glow OF color. One OF Worths models Is
charming of delicate violet velvet eXqustey
embroidered with purple pansies The square-cut
cOrsage of velvet and pulled sleeves are trimmed pro-
fusely with point Lace Scattered about clusters Of
panses satin ribbon aud lace Other fashionable c0ors
are seen in superb costumes OF exquisite embroderes Of
SAGE green and brilliant shadings in crimson plush
binaons OF dusky olive velvet with color adorned
with embroidered lilies and elaborate ningngs OF moss
green velvet and goldcoor with peacock feather trim
made trailing with trans of cloth
| not long passed by. or back TO bandrkyns and
farhngles Tine present skirts quite escape the ground
ollie NJ 4 a.
of pale sage with designs IN high relief OF India blue
plush Tine deheatey armohihns tlnts are contras,ed
with the SuTah tin waist OF the blue shade softened by
quantities OF costly lace and applique embroidery OF seed
Tie revival OF the once popular French moire which
S nv announced by tae most Artistic Of tae modsc
who discover how gracefully the white MORE especially
adapts itself TO lace and the sheerest OF iLusiAs and
satins.
BALL AND WEDDING DRESSES.
Exquisite ball dresses already made almost COW
with white Spanish lace, the peculiarly beautiful
effect Of the shinmerng waered design beneath the thin
ule gauze or India null, half revealed, half concealed
with few waterles grasses and tiny cut glass beads
for dew Will create perfect fancy dress OF Undine e
gends. Elegant bridal costumes with delightful ight
and shades and faint lunar radiance have already ap
peared in Paris composed OF the white MORE watered
silk, shining with sOftened lustre beneath the lace
| of the veil and draperies equally Transparent.
| The most elegant OF wedding dresses thi,
have 40 TAR been composed Of combination OF
aud the front and SIDES OF satin. The front Is embrod
cred with seed pearls and floss in retwork and clus.
ter for,ct-nen0ts is ia each square reaching down
to meet peang OF satin that extends the front
headed by pleatcd ruche Of old lace having baud
OF pearl passementerie running through the centre
sidepeamg OF satin, also finished as above extends up
the sides OF the front dividing IL from the MORE bach
which is edged around the bottom with five sdepleat
ings OF satin. Tue squarecut basque ia filed in al the
meek with snowy masses of fluffy tue and crepe lisse
and tue pearl passementere. There is also satin
set in the front of wastcOat shape The elbow sleeves
mixture of lace and satin Sprays of orange bios.
mixed with white jasmin, the relief of green being
the pretty innovation OF fOureaved clover in cluster,
are arranged gracefully about the basque and drapees
The MOzen Age is repeated this This style has
the pointed waist both in front aud back. There no
sign basque the Sides which only inch Or
two below the belt OF the skirt The sashed sleeves have