The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1881-04-01

The new basques are single-breasted,
and fit as smoothly as q Jersey all
around the hips until they reach the
middle forms of the back, where they
are folded in two box pleats that may
be triple or quadruple, and are open up
the middle seam to show the layers OF
folds or pleats. In order to keep the
round basque perfectly smooth over the
hips, it is loaded by weights of lead to
bold it down, and these weights are not
confined to the front and back as at pres
eat when only four or six are used, but
there are now ten or twelve weights
placed at intervals around the basque in
the facing that completes it. Some
times the left side form of the basque is
made very much longer than that on
the right side, and is caught up by q
bow of ribbon on the pleats of the mid
die form. In others, there are four box
pleats in the middle, behind, that reach
nearly to the bottom of the lower skirt;
these are arranged in pairs, two above
the other two, are lined with crinoline,
and are each as wide as the whole
breadth of silk used for lining them;
they are then folded in triple pleats,
and are pressed fatty into shape; they
do not look stiff, because they are
usually relieved by sashes of striped
stuff, and they fall amidst the intricate
curved draperies that are attached to
the skirt. The fronts of basques are
made often to turn upward and back,
and are faced with the bayadere stripes.
Sometimes only the right front is turned
up, and the striped Surah facing con-
sinues as a sash, passing under the long
oox pleats of the middle form to the left
side, where it falls in straight single
sash end to the foot of the dress. The
pleated plastron inserted in a Pompa-
'dour square, or else with the lower part
curved or pointed on the bust, is the
most usual trimming for the front,
though there are many folds and
shirred pieces in long vest shape. A
bow of narrow ribbon is tied in front at
the waist line across such pleating, and
sometimes there are wide ribbons that tie
in one huge bow on the left side. Two
standing collars are on dresses with
striped plastrons; one of these-the
inner collars striped, and passes all
around the neck, while the outer one, of
plain goods, is confined to the back, or
at most begins where the plain material
of the waist begins. Five box pleats,
each an inch wide, form stylish
plastron; this is piped all around with
the plain goods. A great many dresses
have Byron collars of striped stuff; 9TH
ers have straight piece of striped Surah
like a ribbon, six or eight inches wide,
gathered to the middle of the back of
the neck, passing around to the front,
and having single loop and two ends to
finish what recalls the neck-ribbon of
old times. Buttons are small and in
conspicuous on these new basques, be-
ing confined to fastening the front,
where they are often hidden out of sight
by the many folds, pleats, and shirrings
of the trimmings. Pockets are seldom
seen on these new garments, or on the
newest outside wraps. Belts and a
hanging bag take the place of hip pock-
cts. The curved drapery is like that
known as hoped drapery, with the
length not caught up by pleats down the
Sides but drawn up to the belt, and
pleated there the ends are not cut apart
below, but are in a continuous curve.
There are quite as many long over-skirts
as there are short ones, but the object
in all seems to be to I" corrugate" them;
that is, to wrinkle into many folds the
soft stuff that lends itself so easily to this
graceful draping. Sleeves retain the
coat shape, and are most simply trim
med at the wrists, with tendency to
gathering up the inside seam shorter on
the arm than the lower part of the
sleeve. Facings and piping folds of
contrasting color will play far more
important part in trimmings than they
have ever yet done. For very dressy
costumes, great deal of lace, very fully
gathered. will be used; for black dress
es, Spanish lace is chosen; while for
lighter dresses, white lace of the mex
oensiye kinds is colored as dark as cof-
fee yellow, and is also used in great
quaint les There are some soft,
crushed-looking rosettes of Surah, but
the prettiest dresses have many bows
each of the many loops heaped upon
each .other-of satin ribbon about two
inches wide; these are at the throat and
waist line, in the cuffs, the back of the
basque, and on the retrousse sides of the
Basar.
Horinr ouA GMon6;n~