The Red Cloud chief., 1881-05-05
Goods for Spring Wear.

Goods for Spring Wear.
What is the reason silk is the only
fabric in which a modern woman con-
siders herself dressed? 1t is often stiH,
awkward and difficult to manage; it is
|. also often thin. glossy and ~unbecoming
as glazed paper. Fine dark wool holds
color and light and shade better; it has
greater depth and s~oftness; and some
inexpensive cottons have a modestv,
grace and freshness which NAV be cred
tied to the wearers. and are wonderful
ly cheap at the price. 1t is not long
since a silk dress was a rare acquisition
for the wives of comparatively rich men;
now, every woman and every young girl
must not only have a silk dress, but
many who cannot afford it nus have
several, and have them frequently re-
placed. also, at any cost and any sacri-
tce-made by others; for the selfish
and inconsiderate are too apt to put the
best things TO the worst uses, and de-
mand the best long before they have
learned the conditions of its being.
At the present time there is not the
least excuse for buying silk when itcan-
moi be afforded, OF when wool and cot
ton would do just as well. Tee cotton
manufactures. for dress purposes. have
been gradually improving for several
years past, or rather, they have revived
some of the styles that were known long
aeo, before silks became so common
as TO drive them for q time from the
market.
This spring they are daintier, prettier,
more varied and more attractive than
ever. The soft satins are fine As silk,
and there is q new ''cOttOn batiste,"
to which the nam does great Injustice,
for it is not SO slazy as the linen batiste,
and will not wear "stringy" as does
the linen batiste, unless it is of the very
highest grade. and then it is too costly
for a majority.
What is called cotton batiste is made
like linen dress lawns. 1t is "sheer,"
as ladies say, without being diaphonous,
and fine rs well as firm. 1t comes in
small, charming designs--some Old En-
glish, and some u modification of the
japanese. Some lovely patterns
are in shaded blue. and others
in very dull buff. with minutest leaves
aud tiny brown berries in the delicate
designs.
Last ycalsthe very large plaids had a
vogue in consequence of the sudden de-
yelopment of the handkerchief
dresses which the plaid ginghams easily
represented. Plaids of enormous size
have also sold again this year. but the
more recent patterns show stripes on
varied clusters of lines. some fine as
hairs and shaded from stripes that are
almost solid to distinct alternates which
form a very wide stripe of a different
one or color. The colors are gray,
pink, blue and brown in different COM
binations. and there are also some that
are very dark-wine. checked with old
gold, bOttle-blue and black; but these
are moderate plaids plain. Very new
combinations are shown in wine-colored
Saline, and a Saline with w~ine-colored
ground well covered with a figure in
shaded daf1odils, the colors being differ
cnt tints of olive, old blue and gold.
The short skirt trimmed with plaitings
or gathered flounces is of the plain
color; the princess ~pOlonaise, partly
open and draped away from the front,
is of the figured fabric. and is finished
with a deep round collar and cuffs of
the plain Saline, bordered with pale
coffee-colored lace. Some OF the fine
cottons are dotted and have plain ma
tcrial to match the ground: others are
in very small checks, and upon some of
these latter the trimming material is
dotted also. The new trimming of best
qualities can be selected to match fab
rics and are equally fast in color. The
cOlored cotton cmbrOiderieS wash and
yea with the goods and are of a uni
form fincncss of texture that CORE
spends exactly with the ginghams and
the pretty, s~oft-finished satines. ~pcrcales
and cambrics. The trimmings need
not be drawn by its gathering thread
into ruflling, but may be laid flat if pre-
fcrred, and thus form a very pretty and
durable embroidery. The Madeira en-
broidery is manufactured in colors also.
but it cannot be relied upon for the
preservation of its color, and it is not
of uniform quality, SO that texture and
pattern can rarely be found to suit a
new and fine cotton fabric. and when il
is. the price is exceptionally high.
The short dress is still in the ascend
ant, and it depends upon women them
selves to keep it so, or ut least so well
sustained and protected that any woman
can wear it without feeling herself re-
markable. At present, the short dress,
rs before remarked, is in the ascendant.
The majority of evening dresses of silk.
satin and brocade worn by young girls
are cut short, and spring walking and
visiting dresses of the richest material
clear the ground so that they can be
worn with comparative comfort. I'M
like the mode of some ten or fifteen
years ago, which ran into all sorts OF
eccentricities and made those who in
dulged in it look like mountcbanks, the
style of to-day is, or may be. modest,
sensible and convenient. 1t is not toe
short, and it is most fashionable when il
is simple and free from overlooking.
Can we not keep it-that is in its essen.
tials? There ought to be women enough
now of thought and intelligence to adj
here to a single idea which is undenia-
bly, good-even essential to health,
economy and cleanineSs-and which
offers no restriction except where re-
striction is necessary TO save waste and
the attributes becoming every cOnsci.
entious woman.-Jcnnie June.
Protective Resemblance Of Insects.