Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-12-12
ESTABLISHED 1850.

American manufacturers viii contribute their
silken articles and fabrics Of every Dissertation.
SIX growers from many different States win
send their cocoons. Established hlatures viii
send the silk ready for use by the manufac.
turer. and factories their varied specimens OF
embroidered silks, sewing silks, ribbons, ties.
handkerchiefs, and the like Ladies art deco.
rative, and other societies are preparing orna-
/ mental work, executed In American silk upon
American fabrics, and stuffs for upholstery,
silken hanRings, and many kinds of goods
attest the degree Of skill and excellence
which silk culture In this country has reached
prosperous and progressive silk growing in
this country means q source OF wealth greater
| than that OF the California gold and silver
mines. and infinitely better from the moral and
| industrial point Of view. It means the keep
ing at home the millions Of dollars now sent
abroad for raw materials and the manu-
featured fabrics, and it means also q new in
dustry adapted to farming and agricultural
communities, which will fill the place of those
that have been absorbed by great associa-
tive companies and establishments. Every
body in this country. rich and poor, buys silk,
aud there are few women without at least one
silk dress in their wardrobe Here, therefore,
where the great market exists. should there be
sources OF supply.
THE CLOAK PROBLEM
The multiplication Of designs ana materials
for cloaks has added another to the many
problems which afflict women In connection
with the dress question. OF cloaks and mate
cloaks too that are moderate in price as well
as cloaks that are expensive. But fashion now
demands the appropriate garment for every
occasion, and this discredits the one that was
formerly deemed suitable for many occasions;
besides which it is not easy to find the lady.
ike cut IN inexpensive materials, since the
range has become so large and wide and the
standard OF prices risen to higher level. II
money is no object, the most fastidious taste
can find satisfaction in embroidered plush
superb brocade plush lined, or q
shetland seal with beaver collar and
cuffs, but, in addition to this, secondary cloak
will be needed. not so warm and not so expen-
sive, an ulster for travelling a waterproof for
rain, dolman or mantle for between seasons,
one or more Shawls, and couple of mantleS
or silk and lace outside garments for summer
wear, in addition to a summer ulster of silk or
linen. This list of outside requirements sounds
absurd to men, yet it is really very moderate
Tor woman who is obliged to meet the de-
mands of society, and It does not include the
necessary opera cloak or fur-lined wrap
(sleeveess, so that it can be easily thrown on
or Off. which is essential for lady who goes
to parties and receptions, to balls and enter
talnments, in lace sleeves or no sleeves at all
exchanging the summer atmosphere of her
nome Tor frosty air and piercing wind and
snow. But querists will naturally remark that
all this Is only necessary for the wealthy
womsn-the woman Of society or position; It
Is IS not necessary or suitable for the middle
class woman. and, therefore, presents no
problem to her for solution This Is, however,
mlstake. In this country we have
no middle class women, and we
have few, very few. who are able to control
any considerable amount of money Almost
the only ones are the single women who earn
IT, The wives of men who have the reputation
OF wealth are often the most severely restricted
in the use Of money, and of those who inherit
wealth or can dispose of 1t in their own right,
the majority find 1t absorbed by others or SO
controlled by men as 10 put the disposition Of
II practcally out OF their own hands OF course
TINS condition is gradually improving; but,
especially In conservative circles it is still held
that woman is incapable Of self government.
s1 snas tney must FOR safe keeping be transferred
otner man, and naturally the fixing Of this be-
lief brings about its results; il a child was
never permitted to use its limbs, if from in
fancy they were bandaged and tied down to a
board, it would always be helpless and e Grip
pie.
The embarrassments of the position fall
upon that immense class Of women who have
10 sustain their social credit in the face of
constantly increasing difficulties and the utter
failure OF the men upon whom they are de-
pendent to realize the position. Moreover it is
source OF intense dissatisfaction to them
selves If they are women Of sensitive con-
SCIENCE 20 spend money for SO much that so
quickly loses its value and is yet not worn or
deLaced. Articles can be given away, Of |
course; but they do not always feel that they |
can afford to do this or that it is right, and |
thus the cloak and wrap question has become |
q ougbear to very large number OF refined |
ana conscientious women.
There was time when two kinds of cloaks |
1or winter wear were all that were made-the |
expensive velvet and the respectable cloth A /
wen made and neatly trimmed black cloth, |
Wnlcn could be bought for from fifteen to |
twenty dollars, was then considered good |
enough for anybody" and the velvet cloaks, |
Tor which only rich real Lyons velvet at ten |
objects of aspiration certainly, but not a test |
OF position or of claims to consideration
The silk cloak seems to have made |
all this disturbance in the ranks of our
0ufnF oI0a -
OF good heavy quality; it must have a warm /
and handsome lining, and border or ornamen-
tation OF some kind, and therefore by the time /
1t is an accomplished fact IL costs money Fifty
sixty. seventy and eighty dollars is a good deal |
for the woman who only has hundred for her
own autumn needs, and those perhaps of one /
or more chndren, TO, xpend on one garment, be-
sides which she could not possibly afford to buy
another, and silk taken out and worn common. |
~ every day looks in very few months de-
faced and shabby; This consideration puts
women; but then the question comes back |
with force, what to have for substitute and /
how to make that one do the work of MANY |
mere are pretty cloaks OF almond tinted
cuffs for young ladies and young married /
women, but these are too youthful and NOT
sober enough for matrons. One solution lies
In the selection or darkest shades of velvet
beaver cloth, made up with plush velvet or fnr
collar and border. These cloaks ara handsoma |
and durable, but they must be made bv a
no s mioolSse mn and the pattern must be
mere prettiness. In this way shade. tone. eT.
cellence of fabric and design may give kind
ot distinction to garment which would other
biiitY is associated with q good. strIIe0iin1
woman who keeps boarders and manages bT
stirring early and late to support a family, but
not at all with fashion,
Two of the most elegant cIoaks innrortad |
Ihis season were shown me as favor the other |
1ay az the Cooperative Dress Association. |
Ihey nad been purchased as soon as opened
and, therefore, had not been displaved One |
was very long coat OF Shetland seal. every
men selected and forming a magnificent gar /
ment Mt for an addition TO an imperial ward /
robe. 1t was made up with the utmost care,
lined with the richest quilted satin. and finished
with Collar and cuffs OF the finest dark beaver |
The price was $500. and it was not dear. for
not more than one OF thousand could be /
terlais, ike this perfect production, For that
reason it was instantly seized There "a at
ways the one person in the world to buy the
me me ss;xsesepslonal thing, the unique object. |
chase all the rest. The second cloak was large
Russian dolman OF black silk plush with q won
ealIi oeIa1i snsen, nned WITH crimson plush. The
pecullar character OF this cloak was obtained 1
from the sleeve. So few designers OF Clothing |
or dressmakers understand the distinction thai |
Is given by the sieevesalone when it is marked
by decided form or ornamentation In this in |
stance the narrow back Of the cloak vas nIain-
only crossed low down by tAiek passementerie
cords Of rich silk and fine let, with lone sl;de
and pendant ornaments. The sleaves an an |
contrary, set high and of the LONG. narroU |
1olman shape, were exquisiteY embroidered |
upon the plush In rose and Lea patterns the
outlines in solid raised stitch. tae yeininC and
1lling with finest beading and network The J
and finish were as rich and 6nc -, |
The embroidery. and, with the emhrafdareS
sleeves. rendered this garment as datfnct;va n; q.
plush as the first mentioned In seal akin
lt Is fatal mistake to mass trimnino Or o..
principal features OF the design I,,e,s tLo
0oddice or skirt OF the dress, and then adS
commonplace sleeve; it reduces this IoveI -
at once. VI
THE LARGE BONNET
las been a godsend to women with Iaroa
eatures and Of a pronounced tyne weTnen |
VINO nave been soFced into small bonnets watch |
eIt the broad face or high cheek bones ex-
posed, or mad to compromise with turned IN |
'r noatlng brlms, which only emphasized the |
points that needed toning down Many women
lave Deen made beautiful by the protecting
made OF the soft beaver brims and the dfstiuc-
I'VE hnisA OF the ostrich feathers, without any
MIXTURE OF frippery and color.
Feathers are IN the ascendant this winter for
, ,rnam entatlon, and are more suitable than
lowers Tor this season, although in the conn
ry holly berries look well against black or
grey or dark green. But long, slender and |
wonderfully shaded feathers are very mach |
preferred for this design in rich bFoeaded
'ilks, and shaded ostrich feathers are made |
With pearl and shell or amber sticks into the |
richest tans-fans and fanshaped punches of |
peacock feathers are used for wall decora- |
ions. lummfDQ birds for la0nin0 mn vykita ]