Delaware state journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1870-1883, 1881-05-26
THE VAGARIES OF FASHION
NOW LADIES ARE DRESSING IN
NEW YORK CITY.
The Art of Shadfng-A Superabun-
dance of ads-Hafs-NOveltteH
and Trifles.

The Art Of shading-A Superaban-
dance of Beads-Hafs-NOvelt
and tribes.
Special Correspondence of State journal.
New YORK, May 19.-Shadings are the
great feature of the day-showing every
where-characterizing every department
of dress. In striped patterns one con-
trasting color is not set boldly against
another, but instead we see assemblages
of narrow stripes wherein softened alter
nations are brought about. Combinations
the most daring are effected but in so
gradual AWAY that one is transported one
knows not how from pale to dark, from
grave to gay. New silks and ribbons are
notably affected by these novel ideas;
the groundwork seems overcast by q
wave of color extending in billowy fashion
from one side of the breadth to the other,
and not only is this apparent in plain
surfaces, but where intricate brocaded
patterns are wrought. In costumes these
shadings sometimes take the place of
combinations of two materials a finish
being given by sparkling passementeries
or independent ornaments of jet, gilt,
steel or irridescent beads, while in milli-
merry there is q manifest aversion to con-
trasts except as produced by shaded silk
or ribbon. This is the more easily done
because in not few instances one color
is shaded into another; as for example,
olive green into red, blue into gold, 60.
The new arrangement of flowers, by which
shadowy gradations of colors are notice
able, has been previously alluded to, but
the subject is so important as to bear
repetition. Quite original are oircular
mounds of small flowers where lights and
shadows chase each other as we have
sometimes seen in nature on a half cloudy
day.
BEADS BY THE POUND.
One cannot too much admire the forti-
tude with which fashionable lady now
bears the burden of a beaded fringe, per-
haps foot or more in depth, to which is
superadded broad beaded passementeries,
independent ornaments or an entire apron
front composed of heavy beaded net work.
Bonnets are loaded with beads to match
and out door garments ditto. Now If,
like me, you curiously weigh in your
hands one or more of these glittering
superfuities, you will appreciate the ex-
penditure of strength required for locomo-
tion when thus encumbered. If you
inquire what kinds of beads are used,
answer, jet, gilt, steel or irridescent,
either singly or in combination, while for
evening costumes, pearl beads are in
great favor. In the new costumes that
every day are coming out upon the
street, we find that fringes of silk, wool,
&c., are conspicuous by their absence.
Fringes of any kind indeed are rather at
discount, but if used, are made of some
one or more of the fashionable varieties
of beads. The ideas of the day run more
to passementeries, laces laden with beads
or these independent ornaments which
have been mentioned previously. Mani
testify, however, these beaded trimmings
are best adapted to costumes of silk or
satin. For woolens we have combinations
of material ; plain goods, touched up by
plaids or stripes in an endless variety Of
ways. Here in truth comes in much Of
the genuine novelty of the season and old
ideas are freshened up by newness in
coloring and pattern. Buttons, too, are
used with good results and often fairly
glow on dark or pale fabrics. Then again,
you can hardly misplace cape or hood
Either are appended to any sort of cos
tune and now and then We see the two
worn together. Nothing is more elegant
than black costume finished with steel
anu pcThdps thc pIcsliee given W btoci
and had something to do with the position
now occupied by black, since it is con-
sidered "high style.'' OF course the
material and its trimming as well, must
be of fine quality and if you ask what
is iudicious choice | would say q
Duchess silk which is one OF Bounet's
best. His reputation as a manufacturer
we all know is worldwide and the brand
in question is celebrated for its purity of
silk, texture and beauty of finish. Prices
run from $1.25 to $3.50 per yard,
ROUGH AND READIEs.
Rough and readies have sprung up in
millinery as if by magic. One wonders
where they all came from and manufac-
turers have certainly been taken una
wares for they intended to supersede
them by ''porcupine" straws. The por-
cupines however for the most part hide
their fretful quills in obscurity and a
general ruch has been made for the
trough and ready" These of course are
essentially semi-dress hats, but neverthe-
less we find them oftentimes expensively
garnished and worn with handsome cos
tunes. The greater number are black
but others are yellow or colored to match
dresses. Shapes are in endless variety,
hight. They have moderately wide
brims turned all sorts of ways
and are usually without strings.
But pretty example COTTON up for Anna
Louise carey is black, trimmed with black
satin and having black satin strings.
The shape is unobtrusive, rising slightly
over the forehead, while three beautiful;
pale pink roses nestle on the left side. A
black satin lining is shirred on the inside.
Another rough and ready devised for 4
travelling hat for Nine. Campanini, wife
of the great tenor, is black, turned up on
the left side and trimmed with two gold
ostrich feathers, united with broad striped
yellow ribbon shirring of the ribbon
on the inside. No strings. Mime. Camps
mini is very pretty woman-still young,
delicately featured, of fair complexion
and slender figure, medium in hight.
TRAINS AT A DISCOUNT.
Trains were never at greater discount,
since they are adopted only for quite
dressy occasions. Short dresses are the
rule for everybody, but elderly ladies are
careful to wear the skirt long enough to
cover we'll the foot. For wash materials
and thin silks or woolens, the Ninon waist
and Celimene skirt form pretty combi-
nation; the first without shoulder seams
and fitting plainly; the latter are irregu-
larly shaped overskirt arranged over
gored skirt trimmed with rows of side
plating. In front the drapery laps from
left to right with deep point on the left
side and shorter point further back on
the right. Another pretty combination
is the Manola overskirt and Lucille blouse
which is shirred around the neck the
overskirt having a deep, shirred tablier
and bouifant back drapery over skirt
finished with knife plaitings.
| NEW SENSATIONS.
Collarettes are new sensation. Two
or more broad rows of lace are plaited
around the neck with sometimes stand
ing rutile in addition and are worn by
both ladies and children; the smaller the
| aI,ilI tha tba al