New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-10-23
BOUILL1BAHSE.
Eron The London relenrnph.

From The London Telegraph.
The Ballad Of Bouillabasse" Will be read and
applauded take it, as long as good English letters
endure and are appreciated; but III strictly Gull
nary SENSE the SMOKING dish of which MIR Thack-
cray partOOk WAS not buuabalsse. 1t was more OF
the nature of a matelote," which may be com
pounded of carp. roach, dace, eels and crawlsh,
stewed with fine herbs and red VINE and garnlshed
with mushrooms. The greatest drawback TO
"natelOte" is that Il is apt 10 be bOny." In
genuine " buuabaiSse" there should be no fresh
water fish aud it Is worthy of remark that many
years after Mr.. Thackeray had immortallzed he
restaurant IN The Rue Neuye DIES Petts Champs, he
admitted that the very lest bOuiabalsse he had
ever tasted had been at a French Creole tavern at
New-O leans, on the road 10 Lake Pontchartrain:
And the reason why the LOuisanian bOulllabalsse"
was necessarily and largely superior to the Paris
preparation, and IN all respects equal TO the Mar
settles one, VIII lie at once obvious when II is re-
mrmbcred, first, that the Creole cookery of New
Orleans is fully par with tina, Of Provence, and
next that the Gulf OF Mexico yields equally with
the Cult of Lyons surprising variety OF hsh, I'M
pOrtant in size, firm iesh and delicious IN aYOr.
II the technics of bOuIllabasse. 1t Is neces
sary to point out that the highest authority rs 10
the proper COnleCUou of this dish IS the famous Pro-
yencal chef" Duraud, the author OF lie Culslnler
du Midi ct du Nord." NJ DuranG's observations on
the vital question Of garlic may he quoted with
advantage here, since the rank and guilty bnlb
plays most important part IN the compromising OF
hOuIllabaisse. Writing during the Restoration,
Durand, with calmly uStltaDe self CONSCIOUSNESS.
remarks: d" have Illuminated the kitchen tor more
than seventy years and nave always maintained
that it IS practicable to suppress the emp oynent OF
used il without having in the first instance aScer
tanned whether garlic was in the slightest degree
offensive - the persons who were about to partake
of my production, nor can / give TOO strong an
expression of my SEM lments OF Indignation toward
those cooks who chop their garlic without having
subjected the esCuient to thorough preliminary
scrapnV. Garlic is full of grumOus PARTICLES; and
it il sufficient for of these granules 10 get be-
tween the teeth TO produce the dlrcst complications
alterations, and deprivation of taste
The welPhty Durand only admits two kinds of
bOulllabaIs,e or BOull-AbaiSse. that a IA Marsel
laIse" and that "a Ia NimOise." Touching the
NarSelllalsc one, the following Is the recipe: In
the bottom OF a Stowpan small quantity OF
chopped onion should be placed. This with u little
good oil, should be passed for moment over the
fire. Then your assortment OF sea-hsh must be cnt
m slices, notably your Looup your MoTilhe' NouJ
whiting, your RasC15se.' and your IangOustr.'
or crav-iSh: but of this last only the tail Of MIN.
The slices OF fish are then TO be placed IN the stew
pan together with some well-chOpprd parsley and
garlic slice OF lemon, tomato from which the
wafer aud the seeds have been expressed: the whole
seasoned with salt, pepper. and a little powdered
saffron. The whole mass Is then To be arose. or
sprnkcd, and that literally, with good olive oil.
and IL IS then To be thoroughly "wetted with a
glass OF dry white wine and some fish bolllOn,
Zuutchc, or broth MADE from fishes heads ana
trimmings carefully boiled down and strained
through tamiS- When the fish Is entirely covered
by the liquid the strwuan IS TO he set 10 the
"douple quick boil until, by means of such heroic
cocion the contents are reduced to threeQ quarters
of their original volume. he reduced sauce
" BouIll-Ahalsse lis then 10 be poured into deep
dish, in which slices OF the crumb Of hne White
brcad-Wlat We term frenCn roll nave bten >Sll-
mctrIcally arranged. The slices of fish are served
separately. BoulliabaisSc "A la Nlmolse differs
from that "a Ia Marsrlla,e' in the particulars
that among the fish red mullet, soles and eelS
admitted. and that when the fish is cooked it IS
served up with "A sauce made from the boiled AMI
pounded liver of a fish called baudrole' mingled
with the yoks of three eggs. some good oil, and
glas, OF MADEIRA Instead OF he sauce OF the Bou-
Abalsse icing poured slices OF bread IN that OF
Mines the sauce aud the fish are served together |
and the whole fish is encICIcd by "CrOutOns' of |
bread fried in butter. Altogether, there would |
appear to be a minimum of garlic in the Mines |
recipe: nor il there any mention made of saffron rs
an ingredient I'm the Marscilles bouillabaisse |
saffron Is almost unpleasant y prominent.