American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1881-04-09
Spring Nantes.


shapes of mantles, and these vary from
the tiniest shoulder capes to large
shirred garments. The small capes are
exceedingly stylish when made quite
strai ght across the back, reaching bare
| ly over the turn of the shoulders and
having narrow ends pointed below the
waist in front. These are made of
black cancels hair or satin, silk or
Surah, and are deliberately trimmed
around the neck with high plated frills
of lace, ruches of passementerie. bead
ing and fringe; a simple trimming is on
the lower edge. Other capes are mere
! Iy large round collars, like the fur col
lars worn during the wiuter, and others
are enlarged to the size of the fur pei
| crimes so popular at present. These are
always black, with many rows of mar
row plated lace at the top and wider
beaded ornaments like fringe are pend
ent. OF course there is very little
warmth in such garments, and they will
be worn merely to give dressy finish
to handsome costumes on the street.
This full high trimming about the neck
and shoulders is now considered very
stylish, and is so generally becoming
that it will be worn by stout and slender
ladies alike, provided always the figure
is fine.
The shirred mantle of black satin
merveilleux, satin Surah. or Sicilienne,
is the most elegant and expensive gar
ment for the spring. 1t is made much
shorter than the shirred cloaks worn
during the winter-such as the Mother
Hubbard and the Directoire-but is
similarly shaped. The shirring is in
many rows around the neck, across the
middle forms of the back and about the
full wide sleeves. In many cases there
are no seams on the shoulders, and the
shaping is done by two long seams from
the back of the neck down, and
a seam under each arm. Some shapes
have merely large slit cut for an arm
hole, and a wide shirred piece sewedin
this slit does duty rs a sleeve. In some
mantles there are six or eight rows of
shirring around the neck like a collar,
with standing plating lace above. and
the only other shirring is then wide
cluster Just below the waist line in the
middle form of the back. Still others
have three or four shirred clusters
across the back forms. with the spaces
between laid in plaits, and these ex-
tend the whole length of the back. A
large bow of black satin ribbon is placed
Just below the waist line behind, and
there are smaller bows on each sleeve
and at the throat. Spanish lace prom
ises to be the favorite for trimming
these mantles, and is used in full gath
cred and in plated frills. basement
cries and galloons, with jet and with
out, are used for heading laces and for
fringe-like drops amid the plaitings.
There are also new fringes of chenille
like the seal-skin fringe worn during
the winter. but of lighter quality, with
full silk fringe beneath to support the
chenille strands. An entire hood of
Spanish lace is one of the pretty orna-
ments for such cloaks. and great deal
Of jetted Spanish lace is used for trim
ming. Sometimes the whole piece put
in the armhole for sleeve is covered
with Spanish lace plaitings. Some new
patterns of brocaded satin, especially
those in leaf, star, and almond designs,
are used for very handsome nantes,
though the reader is warned that it is
far safer to buy plain fabric, that is.
not figured.
Less dressy mantles are made of the
CheviOts and cloths described above for
Jackets in the shirred styles just noted
for mantles, and these will be chosen in
preference to jackets for general wear,
except by very young ladies and miss
es. The full bishop sleeve, shirred at
Ine OAHU, anu again WHeTc IL JOINS tue
middle forms of the back. is seen in
these Cheviot NANTES. The draped
cords, low on the back forms, also trim
such garments, and the hoods and
edges show glimpses of Onljre striped
satin Surah, or else there is plain red or
blue Surah edging plaitings of the
cloth. A pretty mantle, with the deep
Haveock cape that has only one seam
behind. is trimmed with small plated
fans of striped satin Surah let in near
the edges of the cape and of the lower
part of the garment; the Cheviot has II
melange of many colors, and the
stripes show dull gold, with n little red
and green, yet it is all so toned down
that the effect is harmonious and quiet.
The square folded sleeves, falling plain
from the elbow down, and cut in the
garment instead of being inserted ut
an armhole, are seen on many of these
wraps, some of which are entirely with
out shirring, while others have the
middle back forms deliberately SHRED,
or else merely in a single cluster. There
are very graceful spring wraps in many
of the new styles to be had for $3.50 or
So but the newest Cheviots in shirred
shapes range from $40 to S25. -Rar-
per'S Bdzar,