Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-10-22
FASHION WRINKLES.
THE LATE NOVELTIES.

the rage.
OMBRE effects are already considered greatly
out of fashion.
THE most refined black dresses are frightened
by touches of color.
CoRsAGE boquet of artificial flowers is now
sent nome with new street dress in New York.
AMONG the Jersey suits are some in new
mixtures, dark, olive and gold, with q sus-
pcion of red.'
TIE STAR on last Saturday, as well as to-day,
is Respondent with novelties, staple articles,
silks. satins, ETC.. in the advertisements of the
reading Washington merchants.
FULL TRIPLE-PLATTED PRAISES are in vogue,
made after the fashion of the ruffles seen in por
traits around the neck of Sir Walter Raleigh.
They are called Raleigh ruffs.''
HALF-FITTING PALEToTs of plain dark cloth,
more especially Of a dark green tint, are very
fashionable for the autumn season. They have
no trimming beside large fancy buttons.
BRIGHT CoLORED STRIPES and checks are
again in favor, and those who rush after every
novelty will at once appear in zebra CARDS show
ing as many different hues as the ancient cos
tune worn by Joseph himself.
CLOTH DRESSES are still plated to the knee,
with scarf drapery or wrinkled apron above the
kilt. The waist for such dresses may be either
lar and cuffs of velvet or plush.
PRETTY NETS made Of silver or gold threads,
and also silk nets with gold beads threaded in
the meshes, are being worn once more by very
young ladies. In silk they come in shades of
brown, auburn, golden color and black, to match
the shade of the hair.
A DECIDED novelty is the shooting Jacket
made Of dark-colOred cardinal cloth, or vigOgne,
which is worn upon the street over skirts of
black satin silk or cashmere They are stylish.
and also very Notwithstanding these cool
autumn days, and do not appear as conspicuous
as one would suppose.
VERY RICH and quite novel is costume of
black cloth and satin, with the tunic and the
trimmings Of the long basque, formed of cloth
applique on satin in leaf design framed in
machine embroidery in cord. Spanish lace and
long Topped bows of black satin ribbon complete
the garniture of the dress.
MANY of the new fall round hats, and few Of
the mltigated poke-bonnets, have a fall of Span
lsh lace at the edge just deep enough to shade
the eyes. This drapery is very becoming to
most faces, and as the fashion gains ground and
the width of the lace grows trife deeper wells
Will be quite superseded.
FASHION is most prolific in her conceits this
fall, and each days expositions illustrate new
designs and odd features in styles, for, as the
bonnet is susceptible Of hundreds of variations
and notifications, so can dress be created after
numberless models, and stylish wraps are by no
means confined to limited quantity of shapes.
The favorte decoration at present for the
throat is necklace of amber or real coral
beads, both of which are in great request. Ac-
cording to the aesthetic code, amber beads
should be worn with the new artistic sickly
green's, the deep philosopher blues, any of the
dOwdy reds, or the intensely royal purples.
which they affect.
INTENSELY bright colors are seen among all
the late importations and some of the new COM
binations are quite alarming. Ii this fancy goes
on unchecked, an audience Of fashionable ladies
in church or concert will resemble huge bed of
Dutch tulips, and the similarity will be height
ened by the newly developed taste for stripes of
every possible hue.
LITTLE shoulder capes shirred in Mother Hub
bard style at the neck. accompany many dresses
Underskirts are sometimes laid in large puffs,
separated by several rows of shirring. The last
pun falls IN f1ounce, and several narrow rows
OF pleatings are set underneath it. The drapery
with this skirt is drawn very high at the sides,
with short apron front and full puff at the
back, from whence falls long ends.
THE N. Y. Post says: Checked and striped
wooden goods, serges, vigognes, cheviot cloth
and limousine are the most fashionable mater
ials for autumn walking costumes. which are
invariably made with short round skirts either
laid in very broad, fiat box plaits from belt to
toe. or with three straight fiounces put on in
hollow plaits. In the latter case wide scarf is
draped over the skirt and knOtted loosely. low
on the left side.
ONE of the prettiest ways of making a suit for
miss is. to have the skirt plated. and the
waist with satin point in the color of the suit
The back and front of the waist are gathered
over the skirt fall small paniers. The long
sleeves are drawn i'm around the shoulders and
wrist, and are left loose in between. For little
girls about II years of age the short skirts are
plated and have no panierS. The trimmings
consist mostly of gathers and satin ribbon bows.
SILK CORDINGs, rich ''cordelieres," and tags
will be more used fOrtrimmings than ever before.
Winter cloaks and redingotes have rich brande-
bourgs passementerie appliques. During the
autumn season there will be worn a number of
long redlngotes of brOche goods in the colOrs of
the dress. As, for example. skirt of satin
merveilieuX in changeable cOlOrs such as pur-
pie and green. the lower part consisting of seven
narrow puffings falling rather loose and sep
arated by reddish silk lace.
VERY SUITABLE STYLE for short wooden
or silk skirt is to have the lower part trimmed
with two closely plated fiounces, the upper one
being somewhat the deeper. About as high as
the knee is drapery taken across forming nat
kind of scarf with fringed ends 1t is very
slightly draped. The waist has small. short
basque and shawl-shaped drapery with a
putting in the back. The revers are arranged
over a coarse piece of goods to make them sit
out instead of falling fiat.
LADIES who have India, Paisley or other hand
some shawls are making them fashionable and
wearable by turning them into Porta or Mother
Hubbard cloaks, trimmed with a bordering of
fur. If the center of the shawl is marked by a
pattern. this should be included i'm the shirrin9s
just below the shoulders. The short, wide
sleeves are made from the ends of the shawl.
With a little taste and good arrangement these
shawls can be converted into wraps exactly re-
semblng those which are said to come from In
dia, for which fabulous sum is asked.
INDEPENDENT COATS, to be worn over skirts
Of black or dark colors, are still seen in great
variety. They present the same leading fea-
tures-a closely fitting shape which outlines the
figure, high neck and tight coat sleeves The
materials OF which they are made are brocaded
velvet, striped MORE, plush or CLOTH Plain black
satin or silk coats will also be a desirable me-
dlum between the very expensive and the very
plain styles. These coats have cuffs. pockets and
deep, rounding collar Of velvet, and are also
adorned with handsome buttons of steel faceted
Jet or those of silk fastened by cords OF frogs.