Morning journal and courier., 1881-09-17
Price Four Cents

mile-on foot. On the way my guide insist
 ed on my entering small cabin built over a hot spring in which lay Maori child who
 had been left in the water t0r 71iz1e nn0aths to | derive benefit for scrofulous affection At 1 length I was carried ''pickaback" over the
 stream, and, emerging from the stunted | shrubbery of the bank, I stood before the 1 goal of my trip, the famous White 1 Terrace. First came a broad level 1 pavement of calcareous deposit over which
 the water flowed gently in nipples, and then 1 against the deep, sombre background of the l hill arose the beautiful white terraced struc- l ture-tler upon tier of scalloped semi-circles l surmounted by cloud of vapor. From a
 recess in the side of the hill flows an enor- nous spring, forming pool perhaps quar- 1 ter of an acre in extent. The water of this pool is not simply hot, but boiling-boiling l at a mad, galloping rate, so that great white hammocks. five feet high chase each other from one side to the other From this cen- tral pool the water flows over a semi i-circular l lip into series of basins from there into second and larger one of reservoirs and so on to the bottom, where it spreads over the broad pavement and then is lost in the marsh. The water in these basins is of the
 deepest heavenly bIue while the curling lips over which 1t flows have f1occulent appear ance and are ornamented with such beautiful
 patterns of natural flagree work as human
 talent could never design.
 NOt tO DOOIS, naQ come prOV1QeQ
 with canvas sliPpers.- and sf7d with these l climDed to the top of the Terrace. Here
 was obtained view of Rotomahana (Hot
 Lake) which was nothing but great swamp
 inhabited by millions of water fowl On the
 opposite side of the valley could just see
 the foot of the Pink Terrace In every di-
 rectlon were arising the vapors and fumes
 that come from the solfataras and fumaroles
 and mud volcanoes of the district num-
 Der of these horrible sights had to be passed 1r,v 7O.-L
 Terrace. First, on level bottom were a collection of truncated cones about three feet high. Looking down into these you saw mass of mud quietly seething I pushed one of these volcanoes with stick and the thing fell together and splashed my knicksrbockers with hot filth so that cut most undignifed caper before the Maori guide and saw at once the expediency of re- suming my boots. Next, after rounding a headland of rocks, was an enormous Assure through which steam was escaping with hid eous roar. There were also countless crevasses, yellow with incrustations of sulphur and whose mephitic fumes made me'gasp and hur- ry on. My first view of the Pink Terrace* was from the ledge of rock overhanging the spring. Close to the hill where 1t issued from the earth, the water was boiling not furiously but just enough to cover the sur face with foam; and, just outside of the boil ing area, the bottom covered with de- poslt of sulphur in the of a circle, and beyond this were succeeding concentric arcs of various colors, formed by the deposit of different salts then came the simple blue of the water, fringed by the pink lip of the pool filmy veil of steam covered the whole This was picture which, doubt not, Is unique in nature.
 The general structure of this terrace is precisely like that of the White Terrace; but it's color is of pale pink, which, in the sum- light, deepens to almost crimson. It's for nation is also perfectly smooth and the lips of the pools are devoid of ornamentation. Here the weary traveller may bathe most re- freshingly, choosing the temperature of the water to suit his fancy the pools at the foot of the terrace being about blood heat, and the warmth of the water increasing as he as- cends toward the top. In one of these pools l fingered for several hours h delicious ease, until the declining sun warned me to dress and hurry back to the canoe
 Although the sights had seen in the val ley of Mahana had been more wonderful than my fancy had ever pictured them, a terrible feeling of insecurity, which must seize every one who enters the sacred valley. made me glad to be once more gliding swiftly over the water of Tarawera; nor did the feeling leave me until I was safely landed at Wairoa. It was just dark when I started on my return to Ohinemutu. Night was on me when I reached the stretch of forest be- fore mentioned. But I was we'll repaid for the annoyance of travelling in the darkness by witnessing most curious and interesting For the space of several hun dred yards the trees along the road were cov- cred, Ii erally stem, branch and leaf with myriads of frehies, whose yellow scintilla- tions resembled but surpassed the phosphor- escent refulgence of tropical waters. This sea of light was soon passed and made the rest of the way to Ohinemutu in the dark
 Urgent business was recalling me to Auck- land, but could not leave the hot lake coun- try without visiting the great geyser of Wa kerewarewa, distant only about mile from 5he Ohinemutu river. Thither I walked the next making my way through great areas of sweetbriar which sweetly scented the air. The geyser is intermittent and plays at irreg- liar intervals. Seated at safe distance, waited for spout" First, there was :umbling sound and then a hiss and spurt, md large body of water was thrown from .n irregular opening in the rocks about forty or fifty feet into the air and fell back in pray. That all, and no sign of the yeyser remained but great cloud of steam Lnd A sucking, gurgling sound as if the earth were drawing in her breath for a new throe
 From OhinemutuI went direct to Tauranga ,n the coast, meeting Katena on the way and being accompanied by him into the town where I dressed him in Arewa fighting cos ume and had his photograph taken by an it. nerant artist.
 From Tauranga the little steamer Rowena arried me and my horse back to Auckland.
 THE END.
 The Maoris call these terraces ''Te Terrata.f