The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1881-03-17
Spring NIantles.

of mantles, and those vary from the
tiniest shoulder capes to large shirred
garments. The small capes are exceed
ingly stylish when made quite straight
across the back, reaching over the turn
of the shoulders, and having narrow
ends pointed below the waist in front.
These are made of black camel's- hair, OF
satin silk, OF surah, and are elaborately
trimmed N ound the neck with high
plated frills of lace, luches of passemen-
tcrie, beading and fringe; a simple trim
ming is on the lower edge. Other
capes arc merely large round collars,
| like the fur collars worn during
the winter, and others are enlarged to
the size of the fur pelerines so popular
at present. These are always black,
with many rows of narrow plated lace
at the top, and wider lace plated on the
edge, upon which beaded ornaments like
fringe are pendent. OF course there is
very little warmth in such garments,
and they will be worn merely to give a
| dressy finish to handsome costumes on
| the street. This full high trimming
about the neck and shoulders is now con-
sidered very stylish, and is so generally
becoming that it will be wo l by stout
and slender ladies' alike, provided always
| the figure is fine.
The shirred mantle of black satin
merveilleuX, satin surah, OF sicilienne,
is the most elegant and expensive gar
mcnt for the spring. 1t is made much
shorter than the shirred cloaks worn
during the winter-such as the Mother
! Hubbard and the Directoire-but is
similarly shaped. The shirring is in
many rows around the neck, across the
middle forms of the back, and about
the full wide sleeves. In many cases
there are no seams on the shoulders, and
the shaping is done by two long seams
from the back of the neck down, and
a seam under each arm. Some shapes
have merely large slit cut for an arm
hole, and wide shiried piece sewed in
this slit does duty as sleeve. In some
mantleS there are six or eight rows of
shirring around the neck like collar,
with standing plated lace above, and
the only other shirring is then wide
cluster just below the waist line in the
middle form of the back. Still others
have three or four shirred clusters across
the back forms, with the spaces between
laid in plaits, and these extend the
whole length of the back. A large bow
of black satin ribbon is placed Just be-
low the waist line behind and there are
smaller bows on each sleeve and at the
throat. Spanish lace promises to be the
iavorite for trimming these mantles, and
Is used III full-gathered and in plated
fills. Passementeries and galloons,
with jet and without, are used for head
ing laces and for fringe-like drops amid
the plaitings. There are also new fringes
of chenille, like the sealskin fringe worn
during the winter, but of lighter
quality, with full silk fringe be-
meath to support the chenille strands.
An entire hood of Spanish lace is one
of the pretty ornaments for such cloaks,
, and great deal of ietted Spanish lace
is used for trimming. Sometimes the
whole piece put in the armhole for Il
sleeve is covered with Spanish lace plat,
ings. Some new patterns of brocadc
satin, especially those in leaf, star and
almond designs, are used for very hand,
some mantles, though the reader i,
/ warned that it is far safer to buy plain
fabric, that is, not figured.
Less dressy mantles are made of the
cheviots and cloths described for jackets
in the shirred styles just noted for man,
| ties, and these will be chosen in prefer
ence to jackets for general wear, except
by very young ladies and misses. The
{ full bishop sleeve, shirred at the band
and again where it joins he middle
/ forms OF the back, is seen jr
, these cheviot mantles. The drapeG
cords, low on the back forms
|, also trim such garments, and the
: hoods and edges show glimpses o
ombre striped satin surah, or else there
is plain red or blue surah edging plat
ings OF the cloth. A pretty mantle, will
the deep Havelock cape that has onl.
one seam behind, is trimmed with small
D plated fans of striped satin surah let il
. near the edges of the cape and of th'
t lower part of the garment; the chevio
> has melange of many colors, and tn,
/ stripes show dull gold, with little rec
| and green, yet it is all SO toned down tina
the effect is harmonious and quiet. TIL,
| square folded sleeves, falling plain from
> the elbow down, and cut in the carmen
instead of being inserted at an armhole
are seen on many of these wraps, SOM
of which are entirely without shilTing
while others have the middle bacl
: forms elaborately shiTed, OF else merel,
! in a single cluster. There are yer,
} graceful spring wraps in many OF tn
new STYLES to be had for g9.6 or $40