The People's vindicator. [volume] (Natchitoches, La.) 1874-1883, 1881-09-24
Autumn B0nnets.

LluucS W lUaulICSt lGS6lI III tuo luCIctsSCu
size and quaint shapes of the bonnets
imported for autumn and winter. Large
poke bonnets with nigh tapering crowns
form the bulk of the first imp0rtations
Of felt, beaver and plush bonnets; the
round hats are also large and in pictur-
esque irregular shapes; there are, how
ever, some small bonnets and small
round hats shown, though these are not
nearly 80 small as those worn last win
ter. For plain bonnets, felt, which was
discarded last year, is revived, espe-
cially for small bonnets that will be al.
most concealed by trimmings of plush
and feathers. Larger bonnets are of
mapped felt brushed smooth and glossy,
with the brim left unbrushed to make it
look like fur or plush. The fronts of
pokes are high and narrow, or else they
are rolled back along the entire edge;
the crowns are mostly in Mother Hub
bard shapes. There are also the Bern
hardt pokes so popular during the sum.
mer, with the back of the crown turned
up, and a projecting front that may be
worn down on the forehead, or high
above it, according to the wearer's pleas-
ure. Smooth beaver or mapped felt
pokes have sometimes a border of clipped
ostrich feathers woven in the brim.
Plush poke bonnets have smooth crowns,
while the entire brims, inside and out,
are brushed to show the deep pile, and
sometimes the brim is striped in two
tones Of one color; again, there are
black crowns with the brim of bronze,
old gold, or drab, or . brown crown
with ecru brim, etc. The felt, plush,
and beaver ,bonnets come in bronze:
olive, and myrtle green, several shades
Of red and Of brown, with drab, black,
and white. Small capotes and also
small pokes are shown in similar colors
made of smooth felt with s'brush. beaver
brilns- name dealers give to the
furry BLOCKING beavers. The Rabagas or
coronet front is seen on many capotes,
while Others are turned up with the
square revers seen on the Bolero hats.
Among the large hats the most graceful
are the Longchamps. This is shown in
felt, with its upturned brim faced with
plush, feathers, or velvet, and q tuft Of
short plumes falling toward the front
from the crown. The Dolero is another
familiar shape, with . straight brimi
turned up squarely all around, and the
upturned edge covered with dropping
lace or beaded fringe. The newest
Gainsboroughs and the peasant shapes
have very slender crowns tapering al.
most to point. English walking hats
are also heightened in the crowns, but
are not largely imported, as they are
merely neat and jaunty, while the fancy
at present is for nothing not picturesque.
The new hats will be laden with
plumage almost to the exclusion of
flowers. Ostrich tips, demi-long festh.
ers, and the long plumes very much
curled are the first choice. The tips
may be al Of one tint, or shaded
through several tones Of color, and will
be made to surround the crown and
curl outward from it on round hats,
while on pokes they are massed in a
cluster on one side. II Stylish long
plumes are SO thick that the single long
feather is not sufficient, hence they are
"piecedn under the quill in order to
mske them full and long. Fancy feath-
ers are made up in various designs to
match the glace and shaded pushes
with which they are combined. To
make DIP the feather ornaments boxes
Of birds are imported, the feathers are
stripped from their wings and breasts,
and are paateds together in hands and
coronets, and new colorings are thus
made up. There are whole boxes
filled with toarterelles meek little doves
in their solemn drab shades; smaller
cases contain dozens Of tiny humming.
birds; while great wooden chests are
filled with brilliant impions that are as
large as turkeys and only found on the
highest mountain.peaks; many of the
green.blue feathers and those of flame.
color are taken from these mammoth
birds. The feathers Of kingfishers,
herons, merles, paroquets, guinea hens,
pheasant and peacOcks are taken apart
and fancitully e-arrsnged. The breast.
Of humming- birds form medallions on
fame-colored impion turbans. The
eyes OF peacoeks' feathers are massed
to make the Argus turbans in which
English girls delight, and Mercury
wings OF asingle dark color arc added
ateath side Of feather bands for crowns.
The odd Partisan caprice is for NINA,
ture Chanticleer made oflthe blue-green
or red iinpion feathers on the body,
with the scarlet ibis for the comb, and
some real cocks plumes for the tail.
This Is offered for . side or1ement 70,
bonnets and hats, and Is said to be q
popular now In Paris as turtles, lizards,
and beetles were formerly. Harper,
Bazar.
! Ancient Frsenasonry II Mexico.
DR.. LIE Plougeon, distinguished
arcAaokgist, writes the following inter.
eaipg letter from Merida, Yucatan:
% have discovered the ruins Of On
aaciSnsl)l Masonic templs, where thu
priests and magicians used to gather
| in. order to celebrate their mysteries.