Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-11-01
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
HOUSE AND STREET COSTUMES
WINTER FABRICS.
The Scarlet Woman and Her Re-
IODgIngs-Preparsti for the Gay
Season.

NEW YORK, October 31.-There never was
season when so much that was rich and beau
tiful in fabric and material was pressed into
the service Of the dressmaker's art. Manufac-
tured designs go back to the days of the first
Napoleon, and reproduce fac SMILES of the
richest stuffs used for upholstery as well as
ladies' attire and supplement these with what
ever art and ingenuity can devise in the way
of fanciful variation from an original idea.
The preference this season seems to be alto
gether in favor of soft, thick satins, velvets,
and plushes overlaid with designs which are
raised so decidedly as to give them the effect
of being put in relief. For example, there are
garnet satins enriched with designs in uncut
velvet which represent all the minutia of the
most delicate lace, and have no counterpart
except among the magnificent fabrlcaticns
used for upholstery in the royal apartments at
Fontainbleau and Versailles. The lace pattern
Is woven in so closely as to form part OF the
entire body of the silk so that it will literally
wear as long as thread remains of it, and be
always handsome for garniture. 1t is used for
the fronts of trained and also of walking
dresses. and presents the appearance OF a lace
embroidery executed in minute bead work.
Sicilienne which has heretofore been mainly
used for cloaSs, is this winter employed for
trains, the front of the dress being of satin or
brocade and also the bodice. The colorS are
such as are only appropriate for rich dinner
dresses -salmon-pink. old gold, cardinal, Nile i,
olive and myrtle-green, and mulberrY-brown.
In velvet brocades very new and rich effects
are produced by combining the cut and uncut
lines in the formation of leaf and floral designs
upon thick twilled satin foundation.
The pushes are the most varied of all the
rich fabrics which have been made to do duty
in the service of the capriCious goddess OF
fashion. OF some of them the close pile is a
quarter of an inch thick and exquisitely shaded
so as to produce the effect of softest animal
fur. In some the irregular lines in light
shades OF brown upon dark seal look like the
skin OF the alligator In others the zebra, the
tiger and leopard skins are apparently repro
duced. Others have festooned effects, and
still others lightnipg-l like darts or rainbowed
stripes, and these of course are most suitable
for Innings and are principally used for that
purpose. An extraordinarily effective pattern
in plush has a large raised figure in the lighter
shades OF brown upon soft, thick, velvety
pile marked into small crescents in the darker
shades so as to be almost invisible.
Many of these designs are thoroughly artiS-
tic and require artistic treatment in the dispo-
sition of them To cut them up is to destroy
them. They require massing in unbroken
lines, and are therefore used principally for
trains, the rich Innings of black brocaded
cloaks, and for coats enriched only with artis-
tic buttons.
The cloths of the season are very attractive
in the dark solid colors and heather mixtures.
They are used for complete suits dress. muff,
toque hat and exterior coat or jacket-and
also for the braided overdresses and close fit
ting prlnceSSe polonalse draped high upon one
side over a satin or plain velvet skirt
Quite boon to economists has been devel-
oped this season in a new make of vSiveteen,
introduced as the nonpareil, and at extremely
moderate prices. The changes of fashion and
the hard wear to which we subject clothes in
great cities, renders the wear of silk, or what
is called Lyons velvet, out of the question for
any but the very wealthy. Yet there are
many purposes for which an in
expensive velvet of good appearance is very
desirable, and tt e want seems to be met in the
nonpareil velveteen. The pile of this imported
fabric is short, thick and soft, and looks more
like real velvet than any heretofore used; in
fact, in the best quality it requires expert
to distinguish the difference, the cotton ap-
pearance having been altogether gotten rid of.
1t is particularly useful for walking suits,
for independent jackets, and for girls
and children's wear. A jacket of
red nonpareil velveteen with jabot Of
to the wardrobe Of a young girl who has not
many party changes, and costs a mere trif1e. In
black and brown it is excellent for skirts with
cloth over. dresses. and it also makes very dis
tinguished looking princess suits for boys.
A beautiful plaid cloth has been introduced
in dark green with lines of red and fine bars of
white, which is very effective and much used
for trimming dark green dreSses-a suits.
The prettiest are in the Jersey form, with
killed skirts. and scarf drapery of the plaid;
the deep basque bodice fitting a rounded
figure like glove. the plaid appearing in small
side pockets and fiat coat collar and cuffs. A
soft colored elastic material is new and used
for jackets, one stripe being elastic and the
other laid IN clustered pleatings. 1t is intended
for Jersey costumes.