Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-11-30

for so much that 60 quickly loses its value and
Is yet not worn or defaced. Articles can be
given away. OF course: but they do not always
feel that they can afford to do this or that it is
right. and thus the cloak and wrap question
mas become bugbear to very large number
OF refined and conscientious women.
There was time when two kinds of cloaks
for winter wear were all that were made-the
expensive velvet aud the respectable cloth. A
Weii-made and neatly-trimmed black CLOTH
which could be bought for from fifteen to
twenty dollars. was then considered good
enough for anybody; and the velvet cloaks, for
which only rich real Lyons velvet, at ten and
twelve dollars per yard, was used, were objects
OF aspiration certainly, but not test of
position or OF claims to consideration.
this disturbance in the ranks of our
| outer garments. Silk for cloak must be
of good heavy quality. 1t must have warm
and handsome lining, and border or ornamen-
| tation of some kind, and therefore, by the time
it is an accomplished fact, it costs money. Fifty
sixty, seventy or eighty dollars is good deal
for the woman who only has a hundred for her
| own autumn needs and those perhaps. of one
or more children, to expend on onesgarment,
besides which she could not possibly afford to
buy another. and silk taken out and worn COM
monty every day looks in very few months de-
faced and shabby. This consideration puts silk
cloaks out of the question for many women but
then the question comes back with force. what
| one do the work of many. There are pretty
cloaks OF almond tinted cloths. with dark plush
collars and cuffs for young ladies and young
married women but these are too youthful and
not sober enough for matrons. One solution
lies in the selection of darkest shades of velvet
beaver cloth. made up with plush velvet or fur
collar and border. These ClOaks are handsome
and durable but they must be made 10y a first
class modiste. and the pattern must be chosen for
its permanent qualifications, not its mere pretti
ness. In this way shade. tone. excellence of
fabric and design may give kind of distinction
to garment which would otherwise be merely
''respectable;" and responsibility is associated
with good, struggling woman who keeps
boarders. and manages. by striving early and
late, to support family, but not at all with
fashion.
Two of the most elegant clOaks imported this
season were shown me as favor the other day
at the Cooperative Dress Association. They
had been purchased as soon as opened, and
therefore had not been displayed One was a
very long coat of Shetland SEAL every inch Sc
lected. and forming magnificent garment, fit
Tor an addition to an imperial wardrobe. 1t was
made up with the utmost care. lined with the
richest quilted satin. and finished with collar
and cuffs of the finest dark beaver. The price
was four hundred dollars. and it was not dear,
for not more than one of thousand could be
turned out Of the aggregate of even costly ma
terlalS like this perfect production. For that
| reason it was instantly seized There is always
the one person in the world to buy the one eX-
ceptional thing the unique object The diff
Guilty is IN finding the people to purchase all the
rest. The second cloak was a large Russian
dolman in black silk plush. with wonderful
sheen. lined with crimson plush. The peculiar
character OF the cloak was obtained from the
sleeves. So few designers of clothing or dress
makers understand the distinction that is given
by the sleeves alone, when it is marked by de-
clded form or ornamentatiOn. In this instance
the narrow back of the cloak was plain-Only
crossed low down by thick passementerie cords
OF rich silk and fine jet, with a long slide and
pendant ornaments. The sleeves. on the con-
trary, set high and of the long. narrow dOlman
shape, were exquisitely embroidered upon the
plush in rose and leaf patterns. the outlines in
solid raised stitch the veining and filling in the
finest net beading and net work. The fasten-
lngs and finish We're as rich and fine as the en-
brOidery. and. with the embroidered sleeves
rendered this garment as distinctive in plush as
the aforementioned in sealskin.
1t is a fatal mistake to mass trimming or the
principal features of the design upon the bodice
or skirt of the dress and then add a common
place Sleeves it reduces the level of distinction at
once.
THE LARGE BONNET
has been a god send to women with large
features and of a pronounced type, women who
have been forced into small bonnets, which left
the broad face or high cheek bones exposed or had
which only emphasized the points that needed
tOning down. Many women have been made
beautiful by the protecting shade of the soft
beaver brims and the distinctive finish of the
ostrich feathers, without any mixture of frippery
and color.
Feathers are in the ascendant this winter for
ornamentatiOn, and are more suitable than
flowers for the season. although with country
holly berries look well against black or grew or
dark green. But long slender and wonderfully
shaded feathers are very much preferred for the
design in rich brOcaded silks. and shaded ostrich
feathers are made with pearl and shell or amber
sticks into the richest fans-fans and fan-shaped
punches of peacock feathers are used for wall
decorations; humming birds for looping up white
and water green satin dresses; and not only are
these hats and bonnets wholly of feathers. but
sets consisting of pocket muff and coachmans
cape, which are made of small overlapping
feathers of the most brilliant as well as the most
sober tnts.
The long. pale tan color and mastic gloves are
more used for dress than any other and have
largely superseded both black and white though
Of course these are always very well worn. Orn-
amentatiOn on the gloves is always more or less
vulgar. bracelets consisting of several narrow
rims of gold or silver being the prettiest and
least distiguring addition to pretty arm.
New DIRK has not yet adopted the London
fashion OF seven to nine capes an addition to
cloth walking coats. but it has imported .'Prin-
cess OF Wales hose. of black or dark brown
silk, in which are inserted tiny blocks consisting
of broken checks of red and dark green These
are the colors of the ''Prince Of Wales" plaid
said to have been invented by him and used by
the Princess for herself and children. Red. green
and white are the colOrs for Christmas decora-
lions, and therefore peculiarly appropriate at
this season. which perhaps my readers will per-
NIT Inc to wish may be most happy to every
One JENNY JUNE.
TOR THE STAR.
Bells of Christmas.
Bells OF Christmas soon will chime,
And their tuneful notes will fly
From the steeples white with rime
To the clear star-frosted sky.
Soon the organ pipes will blow
Strains triumphant, loud and long,
And the happy choir arrow
Fill the whispering church with song.
Soon the pungent scent OF pine
VIII perfume the chilly hall,
Holly sprays and cedar Irvine
Precious pictures on the wall.
Soon the Christmas fires will flare