Sacramento daily record-union., 1881-09-20
FOB WOMEN.
EARLY FALL FAsHIoNs-HINFs OF NEW
STYLES.
Crinoline and the Hoop-velvet and Pushes
Trimmings and Flowers
Some Royal Costumes.

It is safe to say that there will be no
startling changes in fashions this fall
Crinoline fights stubbornly for existence,
and will probably be worn to some extent,
though not universally. The small hoop
is decidedly the favorite, and it is often
only by the swing of the dress that one
can detect its presence. Parisians wear
tournures of crinoline rather than hoop
skirts. Models for dresses sent from Paris
are narrow as ever as to the foundation,
the bouffant appearance at the back being
given by the arrangement of the drapery.
Shirring promises to hold its own, and will
appear for fall and winter on the soft silks
OF the period, after the same fashion now
used for mulls. A favorite style has half
the skirt and more than half the bodice
closely gathered. A very usual mode of
making the skirt is with two deep founces
cut on the straight, and quite half yard
deep, headed by gatherings, say from six
TO eight. The bodice meets the top
founce, SO as to appear to be cut en- Prin-
cesse, but from the waist to join there is a
succession of close-set gatherings. The
bodice has gathered circular piece at the
throat, reaching to the shoulders. This is
A4nP PsCN OAAJ 4OA
NERvnLEUx STRIPES
VIII be much used for trimming. A pretty
mode OF using these is to put an edging of
the stripe down the front of the bodice
and tunic, while the skirt has killing
either of the stripe alone or of the plain
and striped material alternately, the latter
falling between each fold and showing with
every movement of the wearer. Pretty
little drawn capes of the dress material
are very fashionable abroad, and will prob.
ably be the first wrap worn here in the
coming autumn.
Velvet plushes will divide favor for COM
bination with handsome fabrics of all sorts,
brocades, satins of various kinds, cloths
and soft, fine woolens. Tiger plush is again
to the fore, and new plush is shown in
alternate stripes of thick plush and woven
fringe above fringe of pendant tassels.
Ombre satins are again seen, and novelty
in these show stripes with tiny sprays of
flowers in contrasting shades. Some of
the Oriental and Egyptian patterns are
very original, and quaint idea is that of
dull, green leaves on sapphire ground,
with large beetles, just touched with red,
scattered literally over the surface. Among
the oddities may be classed japanese pict.
ures, birds nests and border with pea.
cocks introduced. Less outre and fully as
effective is beautifully finished design of
pansies in feuilles mortes tints on dark
ground, or in shaded grays for half-mourn-
ing.
CONDOR BROWNS,
Dull reds, dark greens and great deal of
dead old gold appear among new shades.
The latest blue is porcelain, the identical
shade of old China, and yet another nov
city in blue shows a tint more gray than
blue, unless when contrasted with pos
tive gray or with black, when the blue
tint stands out unmistakably clear and
distinct. Cloth dresses are to be the thing
for street wear. Early in the season they
will be trimmed with velvet or plush, and
later on with bands of fur, with muff and
hat to match the fur trimming Dark
green, dark blue and browns of all shades
from wood color to seal, will figure in these
suits, together with the pretty cheviot pat
terms which have had such a "run'' of
late Trimmings bid fair to be as gorgeous
as ever. The iridescent fringes and gimps
are wonderful in their brilliancy, and but
tons and neckties are seen to match every
are richly embroidered with fine cut let,
jet and steel, iridescent pearl, the last be.
ing most effective by gaslight. Flowers
are made up In solid surface, say half a
yard deep, and are laid transversely across
the front of the dress. epaulettes of flowers
being decided novelty. Birds are worn
as well as flowers, and wealthy bride ap-
peared recently at French chateau in
cream brocaded velvet, with a tablier of
opal and pearls the trimmings, plaitings,
founces, etc., lined with pale pink mass
OF delicate humming. birds having appa-
rently flown upon the entire front. The
fashion of wearing
NATURAL FLOWERS
Is spreading rather than decreasing, and at
weddings especially living flowers are pre-
ferred to artificial ones. Thus at late
notable wedding in high life, described by
the Paris correspondent of the London
Queen, the bride wore a very transparent
muslin dress over satin, with a tablier
formed of narrow muslin hounces mixed
with tulle, which had the softest effect pos
sible. The train, trimmed with tulle
ruches, was looped up at the sides with
bouquets of natural orange blossoms. The
large tulle veil was fastened with a simple
Gordon of living orange blossoms placed at
the back of the head, and below the thick
tulle ruche round the throat there was a
necklet of real orange blossoms. The
brides sister was the first bridesmaid, and
wore white Indian muslin over blue, the
short skirt looped up with bouquets of
natural rosebuds tied with blue ribbon;
Louis XIV. shepherdess hat in rice straw,
trimmed with wreath of pale roses and
hots OF pale ribbon. The bridegroom's
mosher-the Baroness de la Plesse-wore
llac-satin Merveilleux, painted with PAN
sizes of all shades the immense train was
bordered with a fringe of pansies. The
bonnet, made with wide Spanish lace
mantille, was arranged over
BOUQUETS OF PANsIEs.
The brides mother was in a Pompadour
toilette of broche satin, with garnet stripes
and small bouquets on white ground the
bonnet entirely Of flowers to match those
In the dress large Pampadour fan, like
wise of the same silk. Viscountess de
Beaumont wore iron-gray Surah, with
cuirass bodice, worked all over with steel
beads; the tablier fringed with steel, and
between every row of fringe a garland of
pOPplOc VI ali oHauSs, uub H1tuOut leaves
princesse bonnet trimmed with steel and
poppies, shading from pale to very dark
red gray parasol lined with red, and the
cover painted in water-colors with bou.
quet Of poppies.
Jackets different from the skirt-casa-
quins, as the French call them-are to be
great feature of the season. Brocade
velvet and plush will be the fayorite ma.
terials for such jackets, but woolen
damasses, figured satins, and all that class
of goods will be used. Sometimes the
skirt will be trimmed to match, but this is
not obligatory. Pleated jackets of flannel
or cashmere serge will also be much worn,
and these will make it easy to utilize any
old skirt fer indoor wear. Garnet, stone
gray, dark blue and reddish browns will be
among the popular colors for these