Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-06-04
SUMMER FASHIONS.
French and English styles, Revival
of Ancient MOdcs-Speclalties OF
The ACCOMPLISHMENTS OF sum.
mer Clothing.
TFzoM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT

NEW YORK, June /, 1881.
There are two distinct modes prevalent among
the upper ten thousand this season, both OF
which have their admirers and followers; both
of which, indeed. are followed by the game In.
d1vlduais. One OF these represents the French,
the other the English idea. The French Cling
10 the drapery and the conventional forms
"hich nave become so familiar. The English
revive the styles Of the last century, not In their
entirety. but In fragments; In plain skirted
gowns" III granny" bonnets, In "leg-of-
mutton" sleeves, and the full sleeved surplice
cloak.
1t ls probable that the modern school of Eng.
nsn artists Is, more than any thing else, re5pOa-
sibie for this reproduction OF quaint picturesque
forms. and 1t cannot be denied that they have
made Welcome break In the monotony OF the
oyersk1rt, or trimmed skirt, and all the other
eternal see-saWing TO which the dress OF won an
seems doomed, and which In reality possesses
neither the charm OF novelty nor the dignity of
ptrmanence; for notwithstanding the rapid
changes upon which fashion writer's have to
dilate in order to preserve their occupation,
any woman can see for herself how little there
Is that is really new.
The great difficulty In regard to the English
esthetlc styles Is that they do not seem
real. We have got so accustomed TO the over
laying prccess-to the lambrequin and drawing
room curtain cut, and arrangement of DIR
clothes, that simple costumes look like mas.
queradtng In other pee pies garments. Women
VINO sign over the depravity OF cutting up good
material, ard wasting" it In sbirIings aud fur.
fashioned design, though really much more
inguished than the one she selects, because
there seems so little OF It, and she Is afraid she
would De laughed at II she should wear 1t. This
cecil. quaint, graceful modes are therefore re-
st1icted In their operation. and little used ex-
cept by those who can afford variety in their
designs and wardrobes and please themselves,
people. In short, VINO set the fashion, rather
IMAM follow 1t. Even the limited adoption,
however, has had good effect. 1t has broken
up. as wss before remarked, the monotony of
conventional ideas, and proved fruitful source
particularly the case with ladies' who live much
In doors. and who like variety in their simple
dresses of plain wool or some washing material
They have rot only the short wrapper the
double skirt with blouse waist, and the SINGLE
founced skirt with polonaise, which have been
set into belt with plain skirt; the tea poWr.
SHRED OF set into yoke; the surplice waist
with belt. plain skirt and pulled Sleeve the
plain bodice waist, with gored apron front
cross over nchu and leg. Of mutton sleeves, In
fact. the variety is only limited by the number
or dresses required.
sPECIALTIES OF THE SEASON.
revival Of pretty and becoming fashion is
that CT narrow walking skirts, covered with
numerous narrow fiounces within few inches
OF the waist. Blouse Jackets, the plain cuirass
and the belted waist are employed indiscrlmi-
natey with this skirt; but belt Is usually
added, OF satin, matching the dress or Its trim
ming, from which the hover trimmed pocket
Tor handkerchief or fan Is suspended.
TIE sly lie adapts Itself well to the thin wooden
Ienrles IN cream. ivory and other delicate tlnts
ard also TO lace and muslin as trimming for
foulard or grenadine and gauZe upon silk. The
making OF ruflleS Is not very tedious in these
days OF sewing machines, and they are easily
put On; so that young ladies can compass a
dressy toilet with very little cost If they will
In addition TO the revival OF Old English styles
this season, there Is revival of Old English
labrlcs,-IoWered cotton satteens. Me..ras or
darned. when was formerly caa.ied "tambour''
musiins, thln open-WcIked wools and Chals
1oulafd, dotteG and embroidered muslin and
thin tWeefs for summer travelling wear.
Satlnet also reappears-a thin but rather firm
and ourable SILK, much affected half century
ago by Old ladies', bJs now used as foundation
fer piaitings and 6fapery of lace or muslin.
gTenaC1ne or any other fine tissue. The sum,
Mer tWeeds and heather mixtures copy exactly
the same goods made for man, and are excellent
wear for seryiceable costumes. The colors are
dark bronze, olive with lines of garnet or old
gold, which are almost Invisible. They are
mace with short suits. with no trimmings save
buttons. and are often accompanied by coats or
listers to match.
The.'Newportr rowing dress is pretty nov
city. 1t Is OF white linen with almost straight
skirt frlmmed With two narrow ruflies edge i
with fine outline embroidery. broad belt
and small fced OF the linen Is embroidered to
match. the latter Is edged with broad fine
linen gimpure lace The sleeves are full at the
top. Dat form 'cng cuff shaped to the arm
below. A gypSey straw hat Is WOr With this
dress, trimmed with the blue hepetica ragged
sailor or some flower that will match the Color
OF the thread In the embroidery, which is usu-
ally d-blue. Other morning dresses are
made OF dead buff nankeen, trimmed with linen
lace and worn with large LegnOrn hat deco
rated with !, null and oats, the Drims lined with
third distinctive style consists OF q po,oo-
aise Of lowered sateen over ruf1ied skirt OF
plain sateen; the ground OF black claret or
there is large collar to this, which is edged
with cream lace in an old Brussels pattern, aud
this lace Is laid fat upon the upturned cuff of
tie sleeve, which is shirred at the top and
wrist
ShirriDg Is the most.distinctive feature In the
making OF summer dresses, and the rage for ii
Increases in the senseless way which fashion
usually 1OlIoWS Dresses and nantes ere
SHRED all over, so that they are made to appaa
humpOacked, and are, In the wear, straight stiff
and uncomfortable. 1t would not be at ali sur-
II manufacturers should give stu1s In the fall
In which the shiriln 3 already executed or. ct
least, simulated. II has been done Ia cotton:
why not In silk and wool?
The use Of lace Is not a novelty, bat the de-
velopment OF trimming laceS and their app,tca.
tons to the most diversified materials and de-
signs is certainly growth, though not In any
very high or artistic directions. There is moth.
Ing as becoming, however, as lace rig atty worn
and in the matter OF dressing up plain dark
toilets ana adding grace to lighter ones the
modem trimming laceS have already served a
good purpose
The present furore is for Spanish" lace, So
called; ready made OF Normandy. and In much
prettier patterns than the Old formal Spanish
lace. TIE most magnificent dresses OF the sea-
sen have been made of black or white Spanish
lace over black CT cream satin, with large bows
for garnlture OF black or cream satin ribbons.
No beading allowed. The skirt Is bounced Ia
front TO the knee with lace, where one OF the
BOWS Is placed. From this point The lace over
dress is draped away 10 fall In Serpentine folds
at the back. The satin underdresS Is princes
SNAPPED. but the high lace bodice Is shirred down
10 form long point In front, and the sleeves are
either satin TO the elbow, ard OF lace made IN a
oalIoon at the top, or they may be entirely OF
lace, snort. or reaching below the elbow and
having finish OF satin ribbon.
Some very pretty short evening dresses have
been made for young ladies' Of pink or white
foulard. the skirt ruffied with lace, the square
cut bodice high upon the shoulder, outlined
with lace which maue double fall over the TOD
OF the arm and formed substitute for sleeve
Small Spanish lace shaTls and nantes are
amor 6 the da1ntieSt or outdoor wraps, arranged
as nchuS and garD1tured with bouuet of flow
eIs. Inc small summer nantes from Paris are
either made OF lace or Of soft Sursh trimmed
profusely with lace and long loops of satin
Ilooon. The all lace are many OF them made
up In ri HES upon net foundation. bur the SILK
are snirrcd 10 the form aud obtain ali the
beauty from their sofness ana grace ana me
protusion OF rich looking LACE.
TIE yellow open-Work straws are giving Mace
10 cooler looking chips and NeanOlitans "a the