The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-04-02

they are always made to lap deeply. This is
very effective in striped goods, as in black
grenadines, and is much used ON plain sewing
SIX grenadines, or on brocaded stuffs. Other
skirts nave wider puffs, that may be either BIZ
as or straight when made of plain goods such
as the Surah or nuns yelling; and these ex-
sSnd up 10 the knees, where the top is con-
cealed under the upper drapery Some dresses
nave a series OF narrow tapping bias puffs up
the middle of the front BREADTH where Tanned
knlfe-pleatings were formerly placed, while
others have similar puffs up the left side where
they are disclosed by the over-skirt being
caught up very high on that side. There are
also many polonaises shown as the season ad-
vances, and these are very full on the hips, in
exact contradiction to the long close basqres
that mt like Jerseys. Sometimes this fulness is
merely extended around from the front in the
usual panier style, but in many cases the full
ness IS added in deep shirring just below the
waist line, and the part below is turned back
in revers. The skirts of dresses worn with pol
onalses are quite as elaborately trimmed as
those with basques. Sometimes the whole
front and side breadths are shirred and three or
four gathered ruties of Egyptian brocades, or
OF blocks, or else of bayadere stripes, are
placed across the breadths to break the monot-
ony OF the shirring. The shirred squares are
set ON a the neck, or else inserted like plss-
irons. The new bows for dress garniture have
as many as ten or twelve long loops that
are really loops-not fatty pressed
and also some ends notched or forked; all this
is held by one small strap at the top or in the
middle Satin ribbon two inches wide is used
Tor such bows, and often two contrasting colors
OF ribbon are employed, the latter being placed
inside the darker loops as a lining. The plain
iull skirts worn here do not appear on French
dresses; no materials-not even the bayadere
stripes-are made up entirely plain. The low
er skirt remains very narrow, and is shorter
than that adopted during the Winter, but the
iong-talked-of return tosimple straight breadths
is confined to the flowing trains of full-dress
toilettes, and to brocades that are too rich and
heavy to be draped. Very small bullet-shaped
buttons fasten the front of corsages and these
are mostly crocheted, with perhaps few beads
IN them. The large buttons most used are of
steel or other metal to match trimmings and
these are not conspicuously placed, as they
nave lately been. Six crocheted bullet-shaped
buttons and button holes on the outer seam of
the wrists give neat finish to coat sleeves. A
shirred satin cuff is also popular, and there are
folded narrow scarfs tied around the arm, with
a small bow on top, and hanging tasseled
ends.
The novelty for black grenadines is the use
OF the plain or twilled sewing-silk grenadine
Tor the entire dress; and for its trimming are
frllls of black net, dotted and scalloped with
white silk. This trimming forms square on
the neck OF the basque, and edges the three
scarfs that are draped across the front of the
skirt. Two soft bias puffs of the grenadine
trim the foot of the skirt, instead of frills and
the back is bouffantly draped.