The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-11-17
[Harper's Bazar,l
New York Fashions.



There are no marked changes made in cut
ting gentlemens clothing, though pantaloons
are narrower than those of last season, and all
coats are shorter, including the Prince Albert
frock coats, dress coats, morning cut-aways,
sacks, and also overcoats The suit for business
travelling and morning wear is made entirely
a:.l- Ss~lsi In
neat plaids, checks, or mixtures of color. The
coat may be sack with one or four buttons,
or an English cut-away with the same number
of buttons. The vest, cut high like the coat,
has collar or not according to the fancy OF the
wearer. The trousers are very close-httlng
The semi-dress suit for church and afternoon
wear is really the day dress suit, as it is worn
to all entertainments given in the daytime,
such as afternoon teas, receptions and we'd
dings. This consists of Prince Albert double
breasted frock coat of black or clark blue
twilled cloth-young men prefer dark blue
with marked diagonal lines; this coat is finished
with silk facings, and the vest OF the same
cloth is cut very high to match the coat, SO that
only very little of the folded scarf is shown be-
low the collar. The trousers are made of heavy
cloth with dark neat stripes, usually having
gray effect, but no special color prevails for
these The dress suit remains unchanged in
shape, except that the coats are shortened
little. The most glossy west of England broad
cloth is used for this swallow-tailed coat and
the vest, which is cut low in front to match it,
and these are the only garments now made OF
broadcloth for nen OF fashion. Silk facings
may be used on such coats, or they are omitted
as the wearer directs. The narrow trousers are
of heavier doeskin OF the same lustrous black
used for the coat. Young men of fashion now
wear this suit to all entertainments in the ev-
ening, putting it on for six o'clock dinners,
making evening calls in it, wearing it to the
theatre, where formerly it was seldom seen,
and going thence to receptions. Overcoats are
made of Elysians and fur beaver cloths, and
are most often sacks, slightly shorter than those
of last year, but occasionally surtout overcoat
is ordered Blue, brown and black are the
colors used without preference for either.
Flatly folded scarfs of satin with black or
very dark grounds nearly covered with small
intricate figures in gay colors, are now fashion
able for day use. Large spots of white, or OF a
color contrasted with that of the ground are al
SO worn, and are much more stylish than those
wit b the small polka dots. Gros grain scarfs
are little used The Sweepstake scarf has
catch underneath that simplifies the fastening.
AOAeAo
a bow BY the wearer, must be broad enough to
fill up all the space inside the neck of the vest,
and conceal the white shirt front. Neat Eng
| lish scarfs made to wear with standing collars
| are folded quite narrowly at the throat below
narrow neck band, then widen slightly and are
sufficient to fill up the space leftby very high
| vests The straight De Joinville scarfs are
| tied by the wearer to initiate those Just de-
| scribed though some are worn In ring, or
| tied in a long sailor knot to bear an ornamen-
| tai scarf pin Satin is preferred to silk for all
| these unless the wearer dresses in mourning,
| when black gros grain is used. For fall dress
\ the narrowly folded white lawn ties are chosen;
| some black satin ties folded in the same way
| are also worn at dinners, etc.
The shirt fronts chosen for all occasions, for
| dress as we'll as for general veal, are OF plain
| linen of three thicknesses cut in shield shape,
| and without any decoration in the way OF en-
| brodery or pleats This shirt bosom is never
/ visible except with the low cut front of dress
| coats when few tiny tucks or cords may be
stitched in the edge, outside Of the single large
| stud which is now worn on dress OCCASIONS
| This stud is of hammered gold or plain Etrus-
| Can gold, with Jewelled centrei ulSuonu'
| sapDhire OF turquoise is preferred. turned
/ down collars are again restored to favor lor
/ dress occasions, but are worn very narrow
| with small open space that Is niied py the
| small bow of the white lawn scarf; another
| shane has the turned-down collar meeting at the
| throat but is sloped away broadly to show the
| fIat scarf worn with it. The Jason collar is a
| popular standing collar, as 1t laps slightly aud
does not have sharp points that are uncomiort-
| able to the wearer; this is worn both for dress
| and general wear The English collar, stand
| ing behind and turned over in points in front,
| is still used. There are various other standing
| shapes. Some are like clerical bands; some
meet without tapping; others leave an inch OF
1 space open at the throat and still others nave
\ the tops curved at the throat instead Oh oelng
/ turned over in points. The cuffs are narrow,
| square cornered and meet without tapping, SO
| that they may be worn with linked sleeve out
| tons Gentlemen who wear large sleeve but
tons that are difficult insert in stiffiy starch
ed linen, will facilitate mattersspare their cuts
4 and perhaps retain their own good humor, by
4 sliobtIy mostening the linen near the button
! hole on the wrong side touching it with the
tongue is sufficient.
Hammered gold combined with platina is
| fashionable for scarf pins and linked sleeve
| buttons worn by gentlemen. These come IN
large round ball heads for scarfs, and IN oyal-
| shaped buttons. White enamelled studs are
passe, and the single large stud described above
| is most used. The collar button Is an import