Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-11-30
DECEMBER FASHIONS.
New Lights Upon n Dark Subject
Beautiful Toilets for Beautiful WO.,
men-Thc Silk Of America-The Cloak
Problem md Providence Bonnet.

NEW YORK, November g.
The dress of women will be likely to have new
light thrown upon it through electricity. Thea
ters discourage electric lights because it dis
closes shams and pretences, coarse painting and
bad color. 1t will do the same in our houses
and compel us to be true, and it will educate us
to refinement Of which we do not now dream
The electric light in ball rooms has been
found to be transforming The sheen of rich
satins in pale blue, pink and tinted white be-
comes slyery in its lustre and the glitter of fine
pearl and white jet embroidery radiance itself.
Some complain that the volume of white light
produces ghastliness, but this will be remedied,
when the electric light is fully understood, by
placing it at distance and transmitting it
through tinted or colored glass Already we
see it broken up into clusters in our great squares
and set high so that from. q distance, or to a
near-sighted individual, it looks like diamond
lamp suspended in the air without visible
agency-and the effect within the radius of a
mile is to diffuse clear. soft light, like that OF
a brighter, more tangible moon. When these
lights are transmitted through properly toned
and tinted glasses. and are suspended by almost
invisible means from the ceilings of bathrooms
and drawing rooms new light will indeed be
cast upon all the objects that inhabit them. We
shall then discover the hideOus effects of gas it's
yellow glare and smoky exhalations. We shall
walk and live in the light and this will disclose
to us how much we have done that was I'M
worthy. and suffered that was unnecessary. be-
cause of the darkness. which may perhaps have
seemed light to us, not having before known
light.
The supreme merit of the scientific develop
ment of the day is that they benefit us all. that
they add to the value of human fife, to the COM
fort of human existence, to the beauty and
sweetness of the air that we breathe and the
space that surrounds us. They will also change.
or at least modify many of the habits and GUS
toms of our social ife and for this reason if for
no other, women should keep themselves well
informed upon all subjects that relate to the
Improvement of the conditions which exert a
formative influence upon our daily lives, and
measurably upon conduct and character.
BEAUTIFUL WOMEN AND BEAUTIFUL TOILETS.
This is an age of beauty, or, rather, of a ficti-
tiOus semblance of it, and it is, for this reason
an age of temptation and perm. Form, color
glitter are beauty, and this beauty wins the APP
plause and rules the hour. Fair women ride in
state, while good women weep in sackcloth and
ashes. Modesty is declared to be mere absence
of charm, of power to attract, and fashion justi-
ficatiOn for any enOrmity. At the opening balls
and entertainments of the present season more
low-necked dresses have been worn and more
shameless exposure of person made than has
been known for many years previous. 1t seems
though the absurd and irrational customs
which tradition has kept up abroad, but which
are probably giving way before modern intelli-
gence and enlightenment. were to be revived
and obtain new lease of life here in commune
ties that ought to have freed themselves perma-
nently from them.
Women in society seem to have divided them
selves into three battaliOns-One showing more
or less of what is considered the aesthetic ele-
ment; another conservative and with what are
called "Old-fashioned" prejudices; a third ami
mated lay figures upon which the utmost art of
the dreSsmaker is displayed. art that sometimes
turns out wonderful, copy-book specimens of
grace and loneliness, sometimes merely over
lays them with stuff and segments of designs
that have no relation to each other. The
aesthetic element, much as it may be ridiculed.
is at least decent: it bears steady witness to the
grace of the long line. to the beauty of simple
folds and drapery. to the exquisite sense of soft
ness in fabric. and to the distinction of an en-
larGed and enriched sleeve. 1t has rehabilitated
the ancient full and pulled sleeves and has
condemned the cut-up styles. which are hitched
and rrffled and tied back until all beauty of
fabric is lost and form becomes caricature.
Doubtless the Rstheticism which parades big
sun-fOwers, which expresses itself in tOuZled
hair. bilious complexion. and craze for dirty
reds and stagnant greens. is open to caricature;
but these are fungi, not true aesthetic grOwths.
for aesthetic simply means the thought the re-
fnement, the culture of dress. and expresses
itself in the attire of thousands of women who
have never heard the name Of ''sesthet.'
lady wore recently at an evening party en-
tertainment dress of dark green velvet, made
with sleeves full to the elbow. but terminating
in close deep cuff covered with antique lace.
The skirt was long and plain, with triple plat
in the back and double ruche of satin and vel
vet round the bottom, but otherwise I'M
trimmed. The basque was deep, and formed a
rounding point in front, and what is known as
the ''lotus-leaf' shape in the back. 1t had no
trimming whatever, except buttons But a
collar 0Ofnnp apl
and amber necklace. Of fine Opaque and care
fully graded beads. and an amber comb. The
collar was drawn in a fold from the high tops OF
the sleeves, and fastened with small cameo pins
This toilet was perfectly simple. yet singulariy
effective. 1t differentiated itself from Others
and every one said. chow esthetic''-which was
great compliment to the esthetic idea, for it
was the most harmonious and least cOmpli-
Gated dress present
On the same occasion a young girl wore a
costume OF pale pink satin merveilleuX. The
front of the skirt was a mass of white jet. The
panniered bodice was trimmed with white
Jetted lace. the sleeves being composed OF 1t en-
tirely. The bodice was high at the back but
filled In with gathered lace on the front, which
was cut very low and square. A cluster OF
water lilies covered the space. At the side OF
the waist and a trail of the same flowers Topped
the drapery at the back. This dress was mix
tMe OF ideas, none of which were carried out 1t
was glittering, snowy. and might have been
beautiful mad it been content to be one thing or
another. Seeing the water lilies, people again
said ''hOw esthetic." but there was nothing
esthetc about it except the water lillies. and
they were out Of place. 1t was conventional
design. which should have excluded the richly
beaded and embroidered tablier. and used silk
and beaded lace as a trimming instead. as more
suitable for short dress. The gorgeous front
and trails OF flowers would have been very well
for rich, trained and elaborated ball dress. but
were more than a short dress of satin merveil-
leux, which is not an expensive fabric, though
very soft and pretty, demanded.
dress. which was very rich. and, at the same
time. distinguished by good taste. was co,nbi-
nation OF amber satin and amber and gold bro
cade in a small iower-what is known as peri
Wrinkle -pattein. The brOcade formed the
plated train the jacket bodice and the bands
which divided the gathered front into scant puff
hngs. The bands were further enriched with an
embroidery Of amber beads, which were SO
worked in with gold thread about the flowerets
that composed the pattern of the brocade that
they became a part of it. The sleeves were ar
ranged with two puffs of satin, one at the top,
the other over the elbows. divided by wide en-
brOidered bands Of the brOcade and terminating
in deep cuff, turned up with old point lace A
shell labot Ut the same lace finished the neck
These combinations of satin and brOcade
with beaded trimmings are more popularity
worn than any other. More sometimes takes
10 nj Of do nd fi.na 10