Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-04-30

fhOny ana ntneSS or Things Inc women upon
the street are quietly and sensibly dressed.
They walk steadily as if with purpose Their
dark hats and jackets are no more conspicuous
than those OF men. and their very appearance
announces that their expedition has purpose
and means business" If exercise is to be
taken there are other ways of obtaining it than
to dress in questionable tastes in an exagger-
ated manner, and saunter I'D and down a buSt-
ness thorougfare at the time of the day when
gentlemen are returning to their homes. and
for no other apparent purpose than to be met
by them.
STUDY IN BLUE AND WHITE.
Happening in recently at very fashionable
establishment, was invited by gentleman in
authority 70 take the elevator to an upper
story to see some dresses that had been pre-
pared for Newport and were about TO be sent
off Passing through long apartment be-
tween rows of lay figures we entered a room
that at first sight was a regular Blue Boards
chamber. Groups of apparently headless figures
stood motonlesS, covered entirely with slips OF
white or pale blue cambria. The first appear
ance, coming from the rainbow.hues or outside,
was ghostlY but there was nothing awful or
mysterious about them in reality. The removal
or the Fps disclosed dozen or more summer
dresses, exquisite in their freshness, and nu-
merous other articles ordered for the compile
tion of special toilettes or the general ward
robe. The dresses were short without an ex-
ception, and nearly all made of light. THU ma
terials thin wool predominating, and usually
over or in conjunction with silk or satin
trimmed with great deal of white lace. The
me jority were whole dresses-that is cut in
princess style the waist and hips well defined
the draperY arranged in folds or ScarfS and the
trimming in very fine knife pleatings. fire.
quently supplemented with scant ruffles of
wide white lace,
One of the most charming dresses was of
nuns yelling with pleatings of the same and
additional ruffies Of fine Breton lace, which
was arranged in large irreg ular pleated shells
like folds upon the drapery at the back. In
the wide satin belt was bunch of wonderfully
natural provence roses and cream satin ribbon
continuation with
lace. A hat OF Leghorn straw wi b fancy brim
turned over. rather than bent down from the
large crown. and ornamented interio ly with
shlrrlng OF null, wreath OF lilies OF the
valley, and exteriorly with white ostrich feath-
ers and large cream satin bow the
compartment of this dress.
A vatican gown of chintZ foulard was placed
over white satin petticoat, with a pleated
edge, and exhibited not only full pleatngs of
lace round the neck (Which were turRed over
hat). but jabot extending entirely down the
front and a ruffe around the bottom pretty
dress was of pale robin-egg blue satin trimmed
with white ivory silk muslin, embroidered with
the same shade as the dress in floSelle. An
other was of soft pink Surah satin, draped with
a crepe tissue, the silk embroidery veined and
outlined with silver. A small bonnet was of
this same pink crepe; the crown embroidered
the front mass of pink tinted hedge blossoms
A Mother Hubbard cloak of black damasSee
was very handsome. 1t was shirred at the
waist behind as well as at the neck. and tied in
with a ribbon. The sleeves were the old
'Bishop" and triple ruching of black lace
extended entirely around it
Among the oddities was tea-gown Of Ori-
entail foulard with mandarin sleeves and three
rows of cream lace, forming q deep collar.
There was jabot OF lace do Wn the front
pretty novelty for summer morning wear
cons 'sted of blouse waist of white embroid-
cred muslin with full sleeves to the wrist, and
for wear over it a deep cut-away jacket of dark
olive silk plush made with caps for the sleeves
or small epaulettes in fact, which served as
mounting to the muslin sleeves, and increased
the apparent height of the shoulder The
jacket formed a small perfectly fitting coat at
the back and could be worn either with an
olive silk skirt or of plain white muslin
with embroidered rufiing for trimming, both
being furnished.
SPRING NOVELTIES.
| Perhaps there's nothing quite so pretty and
| effective on the new working materials rs the
cotton satines They have been mentioned be-
| fore as showing very graceful patterns on
| plain dark grounds, but each new instalment
seems to be prettier than the last The flower
patterns shaded or rather tinted in white and
| pale gold, with pink huShes or cream shading
| into yellow and brown are works of art Four
| later designs show gold and bronze figures on
cream or ivory grounds and remarkable effects
| in Japanese designs which quite cover the sur
! face and blend picturesque elements in sort
/ of harmony.
There is popular idea, built upon news
paper paragraphs, that Faster is interesting
| principally on account of its new bonnets and
| the appearance of spring toilets In reality,
so far as dress upon the street and in public is
| concerned, it is the most unattractive of
! seasons, for winter clothing begins to look
| shabby and few are prepared with their spring
| changes even if the weather permitted which
| it rarely does. This year Easter was ex-
ceptionally fine and warm, yet new bonnets
and spring toilets were very few and far be-
| tween. There were few, however-among
| them walking dress of dark olive brocade,
/ the front shirred and draped, the back plain
but laid in thick plaitS. the coat basque shirred
| in front and finished with a rolling collar of
| satin. inside of which was a standing collar and
chemisette of duchesse lace. The ornaments
were buttons and half moons OF steel and gold.
| A handsome dress of black damassee was ac-
companied by small Mother Hubbard visite
| of black satin Surah trimmed with black lace
| and beaded fringe. 1t was unlined and very
soft and graceful. The bonnet was a fancy
straw lined with gold-colored silk and trimmed
| with violets and buttercups; the tie black
| lace barbe over white. hat worn with a
/ black costume of cashmere ana satin with
heavy paSsementerie and cords for trimming
| was of fine English straw, shaped exactly like
a flour scoop, the black turned straight up, the
| front projecting over the face. The trimming
consists Of group of large roses placed upon
the front and shaded from the psest gold to
| the softeSt pinB. Over the crown were large
! loops of Surah satin ribbon, shaded in the
| same tints and the strings tied under the chin
! consisted of white lace over ribbon to match
| Sleeves have taken new departure. The
latest are suggestions or notifications of the
! ancient 'leg of-muton," of which they may be
| the forerunuers. They are moderately full
| from the top of the arm to below the elbow
! where they are SNAPPED ana gathered into q
| Deep light filling cuff. The fullness may be
left loose, or it may be shirred in through the
centre, forming shirred band The sleeves of
light muslin, lawn and cambria dresses are
| made slightly full and short; that is, they only
reach below the elbow, where they are shirred
or set into close band, and finished with a dou-
| bic ruffie of lace.
Very effective black cashmere costumes are
made smooth over the hips and broadly belted
| with satin. which also forms the standing col
| lar rolled over with slight spring. The back
-. 1nks 1rN1. Il -
! and the front draping cut out in teeth which
are lined with satin. cape faced and hood
| lined with black satin accompanied some of
| these dresses but they are complete without
| this addition. A beautiful dress, ordered for
| an Easter entertainment, was Eof the palest
| shade of blue satin, with q slvery brocaded
| figure, which covered the surface. The trim
mings were plaitings Of white and cardinal.
satin and white lace, and the principal orna-
ment mass of red roses placed directly in
front of the corsage between the line of the
waist and the bust.
GLOVES
are always problem to the uninitiated. and es
pecially to the unprovided with large share
of this worlds goods OF late years they have
been greater difficulty than ever because the
market is deluged with an article especially in
thread, which, wherever it comes from. is a
delusion and snare. The fashionable glove
of to-day does not fit smoothly; it is wrinkled
upon the wrist, and therefore the English Iisle
thread glove has gone out of fashion because
it does fit smoothly, and has what is called the
"kid-glove' finish. For this reason a common
cheap thread" glove, which does not cost
twenty cents to make, will sell for seventy
five cents and one dollar. because it has a
wrink led lace wrist, while much more dura-
ble English glove has to be reduced to fifty
cents and can then hardly find customers
Thread gloves a comfort in summer
upon occasions-that is in travelling, making
trips, excursions and the like-when it is
necessary to slip the gloves off and on with
CELEBRITY and at moments notice. But thread
gloves are of little use in riding or driving in
the country For this purpose wash-leather
gloves should be used, and if visit Is con-
templated a pair of dressed or undressed kid
gloves carried in the pocket for an emergency
Indeed it is always good plan to have pair
of kid gloves in reserve il lady goes out
wearing Isle thread or driving gloves, for it is
never certain that an emergency will not arise
when they will be required.
In regard to the use of thread gloves, pick
up stitch, If one drops, instantly, and they
will last much longer and always sew tie but
tons on English thread gloves or they will drop
off The first time of using--not probably if they
are of best quality, but II they are of such as
the majority of women buy. One may wear a
print or gingham dress in calling upon friend
in the country with perfect propriety but
gloves and boots should be daintily neat and
the hat fresh or picturesque.
PARAsoLs.
Last year might have taught a lesson in re-
gard to these indispensable adjuncts to a sum
mer outfit. Whether it did or not time will
show. The styles put upon the market were
many of them characterized by an utter want
of taste and fitness, but they were Of a kind
that shock when the temporary glamour has
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