American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1881-07-09
Gentlemen's Clothing.

English styles still prevail for gentle
mems clothing. Coats remain short
and trousers are narrow. The suit for
business, for travelling and for general
morning wear is made entirely from
one piece of English cashmere or
Scotch Cheviot in neat mixtures of
color without any defined pattern, or
else in very small checks. 1t is dc
rigueur that this suit be all alike, and
as trousers show wear soonest. an
extra pair of trousers made from the
same piece of goods is provided with
the suit. This suit may have either
an English cut-away coat or single
breasted sack, buttoned by one, three
or four buttons, according to the wear
er's fancy. Such coats are shorter than
those of last season; the vest has no
collar, and is very high; the trousers
are narrower in the legs. The semi
dress suit for church, for visiting. for
day weddings, afternoon receptions,
and, indeed, for al ceremonious occa-
sions in the daytime, con sists of the
Prince Albert double-breasted frock-
coat of black or blue diagonal cloth.
with a vest of the same, and trousers of
neat, gray stripes of medium shades,
neither too light nor too dark. This
coat has silk facings, and this suit is
worn by the bridegroom. his best man.
ushers and guests at afternoon we'd
dings of the most formal kind, where
the bride appears in full-dress toilette
of white satin. Gentlemen's full-dress
suits with swallow-tail coat are now
literally what they claim to be-even-
ing dress-and are never worn before a
late dinner. With the English we'd
ding suit another English custom of
dispensing with gloves is adopted here,
and the groom at ceremonious weddings
at Grace Church. or st. ThOmas's, or
st. Bartholomew receives his bride at
the altar without gloves; of course the
best man, ushers, and guests are also
without gloves. The narrow white
folded neck-tie is replaced on such oc-
casions by fiat scarf of satin foulard
with white ground; this fills up the
small space visible inside the high coat,
which is buttoned close about the figure.
An innovation recently at the marriage
of an Eglishman to a New York lady
was the use of white detached CATERS
over the shoes of the bridegroom and
his attendants. There is no change to
note in full-dress suits other than that
coats are shorter and pantaloons mar
rover. This suit is the only one for
which lustrous broadcloth is now used
by men of fashion. Besides the regula-
ton suits just described, gentlemen
provide themselves with a morning coat
of black or blue diagonal cloth, cut to
button from one to four buttons, and
with this are separate trousers of dark
quiet colOrs. For midsummer wear
there are also suits of Scotch heather or
of serge, either blue or brown, made
with sack coat, either single or double
breasted, but never with fitted coat.
White double breasted duck vests are
worn in summer with Prince Albert
frock coats. Summer Overcoats are
short sacks with silk breast facings;
these are made of Melton or diagonal
cloth of dark gray or brown shade;
light brown is the most fashionable
color. Smoking jackets imported from
London are of English homespun cloth
made up in short skeleton sacks. For
travelling are listers of English tweed,
or busters of checked homespun cloth,
or else of gray or black twilled mohair.
-Harper's Bazaar.