The daily gazette. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1874-1883, 1881-04-30
OUR PARIS LETTER
PARIS. April Is, 1881.
Correspondence OF Gazette.

Holy Week in Paris, regarded
merely in its spectacular character,
is to the stranger one of the most in
teresting periods of the year. 1t at
fords an opportunity Of seeing the
grand churches at their best in all
respects. The religious ceremonies
In themselves are sufficient to at
tract all good Catholics, for it is a
universal holiday, and apart from
the obligations of duty, the sweet
spring weather allures from their
homes, all who are able to get
away. Beside, Easter Is the day set
apart by general consent for the ad-
vent of the spring fashions, and the
women especially regard this law OF
fashion as arbitrary.
The Theatres and Churches OF
Paris are municipal property, and
may be said to be operated by the
government. The former are gen rail-
~ closed during Holy Week, and the
performers-especially those OF the
Opera and the leading orchestras,
are delegated to the principal
churches, where the music partakes
of the operate character mellowed
by the religious sentiment, and is
charming.
The display of flowers in all the
churches Is profuse. In some OF the
large churches there Is a floral
display that, in our own coun-
try, would attract crowds from
a distance. Here, flowers and music
areas they should be--a fitting
part of the worship, on the ground
that our best ana most beautiful Of
ferings are most acceptable.
The grandeur of NEST OF the
church buildings is simply indescrib-
able, and their internal ornaments
ton, their rich and elaborate sculp-
lures, bas-relief, gliding aud paint
ings excel any thing OF the kind In
our newer church edifices. Most of
the churches here were in existence
before the discovery of Ameri>
ca, and have been enriched by gen.
erations of enthusiasts and devotees
who have eft fortunes for their uses,
as we'll as by the conscientious con-
tributions of all who have for CEN
turtles been connected with them.
On the morning of Good Friday
we started out for tour OF the
churches on the right bank of the
Seine. At the Madaleine there was a
a performance of the Messiah by the
grand opera and the local choir.
A floral cross of colossal size, form
cd of the choicest flowers, was set in
bed of other flowers of contrasting
colors, the contributions from many a
princely garden, and filled the great
area with their fragrance.
st. Roche, one OF the richest
churches in Paris, was also profusely
decorated, as was st. Augustine. At
Notre Dame we shown a portion of
the true Cross, two nails from the
same, and what purports to be the
identical crown of thorns that pierced
the head of Christ. Believe this or
not, as you chose. We only say this
is the belief of many here, and the
priests assert it as fact beyond con-
tradiction. The sacred relics are only
shown on these three days, and are
then laid safely away.
Our mos interesting visit was that
to st. German PAuxerrois, whose
wicked bell was tolled as signal fol-
the beginning of the massacre OF
st. Bartholomew in 1879. We
listened to the sweet music of its
chimes of forty bells which have
replaced the original bell that called
the commune to their bloody work.
THIS church is garnished on its outside
walls with carved figures of saints, life
size, standing upon the backs OF squirm-
ing devils of various forms and diaboli-
cal expressions. GrinEing devils lean
out from the ewes and seem to jeer at the
people who enter the portals.
For two days the services were con-
tlnuous in the churches, but on Satur-
day night their clamorous bells were set
To ringing with such effect that the
thunderOus roar OF wheels upon the
streets that never ceases, day nor night,
seemed but grand bass To their music.
But on Easter morning the world OF
Paris awAkens, AS 10 were, to new life.
The long fast and mental agony Is
past and the feast begins. The butter
flies OF fashion emerge to sun themselves
In admiring eyes. A series OF balls and
entertainments begin and all goes mer-
rily again. Nothing Is more beautiful
than the minute variety of shapes and
colors of the feminine costumes, and the
coquettish manner of the bellies of this
gayess capital of the world.
To-day easter Sunday we take seat
in the Champs Elysees, midway be-
tween the grand Triumphal Arch built
by Napoleon BoDaparte to commemorate
his victories, and he Obellsk of Luxor.
The obelisk with its thirty centuries OF
dumb experience, clothed from base to
summit with history no man can right
ly read though written in characters al
most a. fresh and as plain to-day as they
we're when the shaft stood on the banks
of the Nile in the midst of a great ma
ton long since passed away.
These monuments, about one mile
apa t, mark the beginning and the end
of TIE Champs Ulysses. Tbs Seine
courses along one side, and wide ave
nue. overhung with shade trees and de.
voted to the carriages, runs through the
middle. ALI the resi- of the vast space
is divided into flower plsts and winding
| paths, founta aims and statuary and lamps
and bright-paiuted cafes, amid which
the couni less crowd slowly wauders.
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