New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-02-10
THE FASHIONS.

oy.rroNs - NOVEL DESIGNS FOR TABLE oRNA-
MgNTATIOE.
All manner of innovations are threatened
q, femiupe costumes Novelty Ia great charm almost
rresistibe In ITSELF and when II is united with beauty
and Convenience what excuse can be made Tor not up
propyiatps whatever 1t may oer There is more taan
the usual number Of artses abroad fishing in fasoh
sbe waters eager to any Hosan and etsam tna
NAV be drifting from the wreck Of the anc'en regime III
order TO crafty the present caprice for everything ou
uusnt fofcgu, old, delicious perpexing nediey VI
costumes typical Of every nation Hndoo cioti - maui
into classical ard Druidish costumes, and sometimes ne
couture L. arranged In the Japanese style OF or"us
fastened with long daeeers and pins, such az are pro-
fusely illustrated on japanese fans The general enec'
may be pretty and odd but Is scarcely arusuc
please the aesthetic eye. Some new dresses are see VI
the styles prevalent the times OF Queen Anne hh
beth, Margaret Of AuJou, and the LouseS, VIZ"
graceful ideas borrowed from the Greek, homau
.nd Italian fashions. In 1895 Philadelphia
had population Of only $4,000. but was tue scene VI
brilliant excitement and gayety ana q constant sueces
s,on of dinners fouroclock teas evening parties ana
balls before the adjournment Of Congress- The fashion
able colors at these distinguished assemohe anu
the materials and ornamentaon were much like those
OF the present day Pale pink fade green, violet warm
roey ac lemon old gold and white were conspicuous
The beautiful Mrs. Morton. painted by Stuart ana VINO
WAS called the American Sappho, wore at @ dinner
costume Of chestuut brown satiD the Grape sKirt en-
Another elegant Dress not unlike some OF the present
o.v as white satin petticoat with corsage Of violet
velvet the skirt ooped up the left side with cords
and tasses and the train of violet sattn Jcung lazy
wore delicate satin pettoost emofoidefed
with Aatin and stripes OF green 1t wac ooped gracely
up and held with cluster Of pale PINK rosebuds me
daughter of Chief Justice McKeon wore blue satin
aress opepng over pettcoat Of white Grape exQuisey
embroidered and scarf Of rosecolor crossing the front
was caught up with flowers; the dress was ALSO very
richly trimmed with white Grape and MOVERS
The hair generally was powdered and dressed
with embroidered bandeaux verei Grape and nodding
plumes Married ladies' distinguished by tur9an-
shaped csps Of finest India muslin beautiful brunette
OF noted family India gauze petticoat protus
~ ornapented with coqueicot satin striped witR saoe
and goldcoOred silk cords; the train was brown velvet
Stuart, when he painted the portrait OF this brilliant
BELLE added to tho toilette by placing on her superb
black hair ~ East india plaid kerebiei Ia Creole The
quaint but becoming poke bonnet worn few years car
Her. is anticipation, as is also the hideous lego
contrast to exquisite Greek dresses worn at home
matinees AFTERNOON teas. and small private family IA
made Of the finest Of cashmere the softest Of creamy
white cu n Gs@e aHd a sa ane
adapted the snd harmony OF this style or cos
o.s elk I" and silver thread large roses ferns popple
and amaranth. THIS design was copied from group OF
,ss Grave Sds e, a SS
exquisite robes Is embroidered In SILK and gold.
the feathery bamboo, TALL ab0rescent ferns entWlnny
the esfy Of slender palms Others SHOW N gold
silver and silk variegated oriental tapestry Of howeIs
s sorde pat Of white SILK cascades and satin II
,nond % M De nS Sat l' sr Graceful
woman manage the classic folds But the cAtho-
reSes ID the Woman Of today may be eraid viii, one
Worbs latest extravagances lie fuu PaTsian tohee'
without historical souvenirs.
AMERICAN AND FRENCH SILKS CoNTRAsTED.
Enr
miserable quality Of the silks and satins from the Lyons
looms: that they scarcely outast bali dozen wear
ipgs plush brocade and scenne take their place This
emarates from France but the English have for several
years previously acknowledged the superiority Of the
American silks brocades damasses and armures as well
"a eros-rraps which are free from Injurious matter.
and will neither crack fray. but outwear several
French silks Another great defect In black SILK is
wearing shiny" which comes from tue &C
nDder friction Cracking arises from the strain
OF The delicate silk to carry Its heavy load OF IRON pot
in foreign treatment Ravellng thread IRON the SIR,
r SesT hna s ns GSr viii
and lumpy, and II small quantity be burned t wi.
pare viii immediately bo consumed crisp leaving
only pure charcoal new feature IN SIR trade nae pee
tie snez Canal and Mediterranean direct to NewYork
though the greater part q me AsaS here D
By rail- Thus the elk completes the circuit Of the wor.
starting from tue same point an9 a a and inc
lessened prices OF raw material have permitted A9eiodh
as are demanded by the Caprice Of fashion
richer silk and greater elaboration The mechanism used
mac5ne so a%e beautiful bail dresses Of white and light
pure silk brocades. sans printed in eoiors ana oner
Ole Of these delicate blue worn at recent di1 Inner
eaeorste trimmed , Sh saSy n4sT"s
satin ribbon Of the same lovely blue Ine eorsage l. c
IN dep DSt 70 5Sd' made
net Foundation, snstains the weight OF countless seea
about the throat and cassc bandeau OF silver twist
with pearls. and comb " corresp9na were ne 0m
Inc bandeaux are among the graceful new things OF tins
year Some of these OF the finest silver nagee o
cObWeb fTagil!ty 10 Appearance they arc formed IN
arabesque curves tiny shells with pearl in each
palms or Of easT S Ge % sncS as
beautiful touraline, green as tue sea Linlau0le
the gittering Carnets from Arizona. Other styles Of
beauty also OF red gold and gold and she'll
POPULAR USE OF LACE TRIMMINGS.
Quantities Of bead.embrodered lace soften the warm
bright shades OF evening tcietes whether OF satin,
de chine The Felicite model Tor iuii
dress Of the princess shape, Win Rroceiu mo'nc-
tious The low pointed bodice Is finished with a
shrred plastron in front and laced up in the back the
long traip cut round has q second fanshaped train
laid over It. laced down the centre as to disclose the
under train long tablier apron is crossed by two
wide scarfs which from under the corsaee and are
carried over TO the right where they are fastened low
beneath an enormous bow OF the material rms drspeTy
OF gauze heavily embroidered Win lroescene eens
of Shifting cOlOrs contrasting well with the color OF inc
underdress This Ornamentatlon Is also CONTINUED on
the taber and bands for the cOrssge and tny sic We
while the design OF this dress may be strictly iooWeu
the draperes be made OF oIhsh
lace beaded tue painted silk satin, or satipstriped
gauge Lace ounces are made OF grace use Sy tlS
Ladies' VINO are accom- plshed IN the beautiful art OF
embroidery execute great deal OF the artsuc "orh
seen this season full dress occasions ... ,,
Black and cream coored Spanish laces are very ias
ionable are sleeves OF black veNet cos
TUNES as well for white or cream
cuOred evening dresses Sumo styics nav
the floral designs elk blonde closely outlined VITO