Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-02-01

| rate. but the forms 10 be gone through ae al.
| ways the same. and are very simple. fns LADIES'
! wear bonnetS or picturesque hats. ana visiting
or walking costumes; the gentlemen, morning
dress. IL they chose. tholgh there are some
who Will not meet ladies excepr IL evening
DRESS even In the afternoon. unless II Is oy day
Eight. for there never was m an who could Da
Persuaded unoer any circumstances 10 pat on
swallow tail untll the gus was lIt-at hone
OF ABROAD There is rarely music al an after
noon reception. People pay their respects 10
TIER hostess or host. or 10 the hostess more
frequently. and the ladies receiving with her.
chat. go through the rooms to find out who +
there they know, take cup OF tea aud = home
again, but ft is pleasant way.of 10 ,eting
nltLds, and makes no heavy drafts upon time.
strength or pocket
Lunch parties are characterized ON SWAZILAND
DAINTY little gifts Ia the form OF menu cards
ana 10y the refinement ano beauty OF the table
equipdGe-the embroidered linen n dimasK the
glass, the china the lowers ana the dplrtc y OF
The bill OF fare A lunch party OF dozen ladies
had prepared for them recently lovely little
eitsei>. upon which were tiny plaques in me
form OF palettes. with BRUSH eacn oae paintai
with little gem OF a landscape me enough for
jeweiry. Another lady mad Tor eacl one or her
guests SATIN bag hand pain cd and 4 lei with
II tsh YioletS and lilies OF the valley
FASHION AND ECONOMY.
am oIten asked. by letter and otherwise TO
give some directions for the tasteful dressing lr
ladies or moderate means Ii seems to IN IN AZ
DO mat 10 the verge OF iteration. and tue pN-
clGslon or much that Is noJClv orUhy IA the realm
OF Snat Is called high fashion Because AFTER
an Is mol wealth or poverty tn Al Is the tot NJ
me majority: IL Is tne struggle OF natural TASTE
ana Intelligence 10 express Itself under 90 aii-
items tnat are rarely favorable 10 dryrlopn pnf
AM tnal need TO be aided b. every means Ia the
power Oh those who SympaJhlSe with such en-
NlonHent. With m0Eey enough one can bly
tiSte, elegance. beauty, brains pyerythtu,r n,It
t1at ihtaLglble personality which SURROUNDS the
| diNiGual as with an atmosphere SO That
The dress or the very rich Is no more an expires
sion OF themselves than that OF the very pDor-
II Is an evidence OF the length ana depth OF their
The tasteful economist requires a whole lite
Tine IN WHICH 10 learn the art OF dreSsiaE well
on small means for much OF this art consists In
learning what TO do without aud another large
proportion In learning how TO take care or what
she has. But IL is, after ALL only the art OF
ut ing certain thing within certain limits and
as II Is LOT possible 10 90 beyond them, the re-
sun must pe or neutral, rather than pro
hounced, character. All persons who live on
small HNeG Incomes know that In their choice
VI mouse. OF 1000, OF furnishing, CT ornament,
they are restricted by al inheXible line. a bar
I1er as real as though composed or iron bars.
which keeps them within certain narrow and
wen Celned range which affords little opporLu-
llty Tor the play OF Imagination or fancy
Women are charged with a perpetual craze
for novelty, yet with this large majority the
principal pleasure In dress Is Ia looking back
upon some happy accident winch gave them a
quiet, becoming, useful gown or garment ar a
price which did not prove embarrassing. and
nlne tenths or the letters which women write
In regard TO their dress are mere appeals 10
know how 10 make old clothes look as well as
new. and five dollars do the work OF ten. Tnelr
great mistake Is Ia trying 10 make SIN all means
WORK In harness with fashion rather III iu TASTE
an effort that must az Il rule end In yeXarIous
disappointment An English lecturer On dreS,
remarked recently that fashion WAS for rbp
rlcll, taste for the Intelligent" and this is a
diaIlLcuon which economists Will GO Well TO
bear III miad.
great deal OF the fashion ofthe present day
Is an outrage upon TASTE and Destructive OF
comfort Delicate little women may De seen al
any time sWaJhed around with huge t)lds OF
heavy material dragging long Overloaded
trains behind them VITA determna ZION OF
endurance which would be heroic IL it had
worthy motive, but which having no rnoffyp
but the qualification Of vanity, the d0ing IL
because others do, becomes a weight and burden
that eXaauStS the nervous energy AMI takes an
the sweetness and brightness out OF their lives
IL Is the women who can least afford lL wno are
mus sacrificed. The rich have toietta5 suited
70 every occasion. They have short and long
ana half trained dresses They have simple
gowns and elaborate toilette5 and they can
chapge from one 10 another. But the economist
must make her one best dress serve for all sorts
OF occasions. She must wear iC with or without
me protection OF a carriage, and 1t on rht
therefore, not to impede her locomDtio1 or
require too much of her strength to carry.
o1d or nigh colorS. fa1clfIl patterns rrtkfny
combinations, and tiimSy material she cannot
Indulge IN, for they are not permanent. They
are employed with special reference 10 rapid
changes, and the throwing aside of one fash
lonaole folly or fantasy as fast as 1t is super
cedeu by another. This is an imoOsoibiIity TO
one who would dress economically and there
fore their study or thought or dress should ba
disconnected FROM fashion, which has become
Sy n0E0mouS with change ard 'De directed ny
CT referred to taste, which is Often "a FAR re-
moved as possible from what IS kaOwa a.
FASHION. Think or woman less thaa I'VE feet
nigh aud weighing perhaps d hundred and one
pounds, carrying aoOut With her thirty yart5
more or less, or satin. velvet ani plush. aat
several pounds OF beads ia the shapa OF fringe
ana tags and paSSemeaJege. That Is fashion
d e woman ia a plain higl gown or brown
satin with RULES OF fine lace aud a string OF
amber beads round the neck-a dress Jnaf' is
not an obstacle. that even Ii II is long Is easily
taken up. That is taste
These are examples OF women OF means;
there are plenty or women VINO possess taste
WHO never did and never wdl own a gown or
satin or beads OF amber. The point IS that tue
1lr>f dress is WEAKNESS While IL IS fashion and
viii be an atrOcity when &c IS out OF fashion
The other can be worn with pleasure and salts
1acLlon BOW and any time within a generation
for the elemental principles In dress remain
very much the same. Ii is only the ''0verlay-
Ing which comes and goes like the 1gurcs OF a
kaleidoscope.
BLACK ToUETrES
The elimination ol black silk from fashion
able fabrics has cut the ground from under the
feet OF thousands Of women who considered
themselves always We'll dressed IN this re
spectacle yet unobtruSive tissue. IL is true
many Of them. wives OF plain, we'll TODD mra
do not trouble themselves about fashion and
viii still buy and keep their one black silk In
happy ignorance or Indifference OF the decree
others who wish TO preserve a certain social
status and relationship 10 iSulCn yet VINO can
not often IepleniSh the most import Ant and
expensive Item or their wardrobe ana 10 uhoSa
the loss OF the black silk OF lis loss or caste Is a
serious difficulty.
There are still black toiettes IN plenty but they
have not the ease or The permanent character
OF black SILK. There Is satin, satin mixed with
brocade and brocade with satin. There Is vel
vet trimmed with satin. and wool combined
with velvet ana plush, whica Is used indiS-
cr1Tn1nately in conjunction with anything aud
everything. The complications trouble the con-
SclentiSuS Dut rather narrow minded woman. Sue
wishes TO be equal Ia her way 10 the situation
tut her anchorage, her harh0r or refuge, has been
taken away. She cannot get best dress every
occasion or even every year. and how can she
tell whether these combinations VIII remain ia
vogue. Besides. If they do. everybody knows
that mixture soon takes on worn look the
edges AID OVERLAPPING being more liable to frlc-
ton and contact
The problem may be solved by the selection
OF plain SATIN with, perhaps. border OF plush,
by old ladies, and soft figured d lmaSk or satin
brOcade Dy younger women. THESE may be
worn for several years, and even when out of
fashion" will still nave an appearance or dis
tinctfOn.
Black having disappeared largely from So
ciety, but being still employed for church and
street wear. some modest ladies OF moderate
income have short suits OF black cashmere
camels hair. or tine feather Suittng, made with
Jersey bodice and sash laid In folds OF satin
or brocaded silk, and for dinner or evening wear
abroad plain trained dress OF wine cOlored