The Portland daily press., 1881-01-05
New York Fashions.
[Harper's BaZar.l

lHarpers BaZar.1
The lingerie for the neck is yoluminous at
present both for simple and dressy toilettes.
The caprice of the moment is the Sara Bern
hardt ruff of lace in triple box pleats finger
deep behind and narrower in front, held in
place by two threads of wire that pass along
the inside of the ruff quite out of sight. This
is used for very high corsages, and also for those
with square or surplice openings at the neck
With high-throated ruffs loose fluffy cravat
bow of null is worn, trimmed with Valen-
ciennes, duchesse, or else any of the various
Breton laces, or the newer imitation Aencon.
One or two long dropping loops of null and
jabot in the middle is the favorite design for
such bows. There are also many frills made of
three rowso of Valenciennes net that has the
merest points of the patterns of Valenciennes
lace; the inner row is quite high, ard these
frills are basted permanently in the neck and
wrists of dresses. Crepe lisse finely crimped is
also shown in three rows for each frill, and
each row is finished with pearl edging. Brus-
sells net is considered more dressy for fchus
than the null embroidered fchus worn during
the summer, and it is also more dressy to trim
these with lace-ether real duchesse, the imi-
tatl0n Alencon, or the new and substantial
point d'Angleterre. These fchus are very
large, and are accompanied by an immense
bow of satin ribbon that is placed ON the left
side.
A novelty for the street is the striped null
fohu or kerchief to be worn outside the cloak.
This is shaped like the embroidered null
tchus worn in the house, and is dotted and
scalloped with needle-work ON the edges. The
stripes are the new feature, and these are half
an inch wide, of red, brown, black, or tan-col-
or with white. They cost 81 each. Another
inexpensive novelty is the white null scarf
made very wide, and trimmed all around with
broad hem that has polka dots, or else bars of
color-bright blue, red, brown, or black.
These are 90 cents each.
Byron collars of thin muslin, hem-stitched
or embroidered, are shown, and others are
made of handkerchief cut in half and
mounted on a neck-band; the other half of the
handkerchief makes the looped bow for the
throat. These collars must be straight ON the
onter edge, and only very slightly curved next
the neck, so that they will roll over closely: it
is not stylish to make them round by SO am in
the middle of the back. While these Byron
collars are meant for morning and for plain
toiettes, the pleated null collars edged with
lace are considered very dressy, and are ex-
pensve, costing from So upward The pleat
ing is finger deep of the null laid in narrow
side pleats edged with lace nearly as wide as
the null. This is sewed to band that fits in
side collar OF the dress, and the pleating rolls
over like Byron collar. The front does not
meet on the outer edge. and there is a null
AID lace bow tied in front after the collar is
put on. Null scarfs remain very wide, and
may be embroidered hem-sttched or edged
with lace. A great Geal of real lace is now
used on such scarfs-especially Valenciennes
and duchesse laces-and insertions to match
are let in above the hem. These scarfs are
either tied in very large bow ana pinned
on with silver pins, or else they are
passed around the neck inside the collar; they
must not be worn outside the dress collar even
with the simplest linen collar. For plain lin
en- collars the standing English shape with
points turned over in front is still most used
though many French collars are pointed quite
low in front.
An importation of models to be copied for
lingerie for the early Spring shows wide COL
lars and square cuffs to be worn outside of the
sleeves. These collars are made of rows of
Valenciennes insertion alternating with en-
broidered insertion, and are edged with the
Valenciennes that is principally of the plain
net with merely scalloped edge or point
wrought in Valenciepnes designs. These
large collars are either pointed or square be-
hind and make very little show in front. This
will be the effect of great deal of the new
lingerie, as, for instance, sheer null embroid-
cred on the edges is made into little hoods at
the back, while the front has the merest fichu
ends to be tied in throat bow. These are
meant to rival the handkerchief-shape fichus
which are SO popular at present. New models
for making up laces similarly shaped, and
there are new embroideries in open patterns
that are as effective as lace, yet more substan-
tial.