New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-08-15
MIDSUMMER FASHIONS.
COSTUMES IN AND OUT OF SEASON.

CoLoRs MATERIALS AND PATTERNS OF PoPu-
LAR cOsTUMEs-LAcE TRIMMNGs-FANs AND
MISUNDERSTANDING COSTUMES.
Fashion, no less than history, proverplaliy
repeats itself This year, not once according 10 'no
prcverb in every seven years, hut after oVo so"
the rage for scarlet In days returns Inc "oy
eotcborde iuported from Flanders. of some gstening
red stuff was richly embroidered, the gown oehoe'A
IKE the gown Of to-day, OF softest Surah siik was ~
composed OF sendale. thin silken fabric from ING East
resembling the Saracenic material whicn ~o c@n
earcenet Attached TO the goldtrmmed giruie she oa
ried gypcere or pouch made of fine leather oroidered
with silk hair Of the fashionable color yei-
low-whether naturally or dyed with sa1ron' no one
dared pronounce-and was bound up In net Oh solu
wire In addition the cotehOre. which was tight
Garment butoned In front down to the hips, as the
curass basque she also sort OF armiess
Jacket ike that OF the present day, trimmed with such
rich bordering Minver fur. Her NANTES and ropes
of velvet cloth of gold and silk stiff with golden needle
work pearls in such Of quality and quantity
would startle the most uucouscientous modte now V-
ing Still excepting in quality the extravaganza OF to-day
compares very favorably with that past away wanon
ness fancy which called forth the severest sumptuary
laws. to which, however, no one listened
Summer NANTES ut the watering places OF
delicate velvet which is rather innovation In this
almost tropical climate, and evening dresses OF superb
silks white velvet stiff with embroideries
pearls. gold thread silk fine jewellers work and
full of the delicious harmony of flowing lines, money
suckle garlands trailing wild roscs tendrs of Oriental
plants thckets Oftreis work. anlike peacocks tails
and bosses pierced with needles of such neness that ~
like fairy work. There are some eoquettish
little cloaks of light champagne and god-colored
cashmere lined with Indian blue or red surah, ana
exousitely embroidered in floral designs with
silks closely initiating Nature. The present style
OF embroidery is visible departure from that OF lew
years ago. when shade of vivid green served 1or
the foliage of each flower Now the embroiderer after
the design selected with her the natural leaf,
for example, the lily, the fern or whatever
foliage belongs each flower and matches the silk by
placing the leaf upon it.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-GEAR
The modern tendency is to realism In the art
and it's harmonious cooring which, though it
apt degenerate love of excessive detail on one
Bde and to much display on the other, is very
good The changes of fashion in respect TO this art are
Marked capricous the shape OF bonnets and in
this latter respect, each month seems to give new
surprise; from simple cottage ornee produced in
June and overgrown with they have grown into
substantial house with overlapping roof Of extreme
breadth TO east the greatest amount OF shade and
cursive unduatng floral ornament from which droops be-
comingly fan of lace sewn on the edge They come in all
shapes these large bonnehats like the mosques, dOmes
sharp ances of Mnarets OF Stombou The obelisks
come straw for midsummer of such coors rs
dark red, black and white. green, omber, and
old gold and made graceful with
profusion of floating ostrich plumes the acings are
mostly of velvet pulled shirred This style of hat
does not shade the face but surrounds the head like
frame set back. Some Of the Minarets are immense ;
their concal, sharp crowns seven eight inches
high and the brims equally wide. Some OF the brms
pnched in several places and these shapes may be worn
turned either way the wearer peases Not nfrequenty
the brms beneath massed with flowers, and then
they called basket hats because the lovely flowers
made to appear if they growing there natu-
uray carelessly thrown in an inverted basket They
also fastened down each side by wide satin rib
bon. which holds them fast to the head Something OF
the shape of what was called calash nearly one hun
dred years is revived made of the warm beautifully
tinted Manila straw. the front like cabrioet
top is made to bend and shadow the face in the
most piquant and becoming manner, particularly when
The charming lining il of delicate wild pale
blue. cream strawberry red color.
The preference for subdued tints-aiways excepting
the present of bright vulgar reds very manifest.
The not but the color of lime leaves
when the shines through them, the pale lovely
OF aquamarne like water from the st. Lawrence. Old
gold and gold color by stale repetition ndigcs-
tible old joke. There is yellow not all like
gold but something infinitely softer with faint greenis
shade something like the cowsip fresh jonqu
softly clear without vulgar glare harshness. These
exquisite tns in the garden hats that offer the
strongest possible contrast to the Others OF
the most graceful is like inverted soup plate
covered all with steel powdered, shaded vioets
from palest to the purple the satin
shaded strings corresponding White chip delicate lace
and Spanish lace form the foundation for scsrfs OF
fastened with feathers from the throat of
cock wrcahs OF match lovely pink and white
costumes. Feathers formidable rival to flowers
another caprice of whimsical fashion without regard &c
the
Notwithstanding the sway Of the immense hats and
their popularity, tits decided that they only
Portable and suitable for walking driving therefore
for travelling purposes the low turban /,
chosen for the sensible that it's shape admits of
veil and is Infinitely more comfortable long railroad
Journey. The turbans mostly back slightly Oh
the head for the better display of the oveocs ereve
nd all know nv hear Cir pat.,
Lely; There exists great distinction in the style
trimming the several styles of hats. Turbans caps OF
toques need only close ornainentaton of short feathe
tips in clusters, wing or breast of bird Sometimes m
crown is surrounded with black dark silk pompons
The tban couture is predicted for the future wou
half century ago Some graceful Spanish bOnnes ar
made of black lace scarfs loosely arranged about tn
foundation of net and confined by silken acque
minot of the darkest red shade.
COSTUMES SEASON.
Some charming tOiletes have been lately designed q
blue batistc that shade the sky when newly WORKED
with RAIN described by the Chinese On front
the basque is placed heartshaped plastron pleated
the sleeves peated from the shoulder several inches
and then sbrred join below the elbow where they ar
finished with "a trimming Of white lace. The skirt il
shirred from the waist down TO the knees From thi.
falls wide pleated hounce edged with narrower on
which surnounts three very rules also pleatcd
The oVerskrt open IN front and each side a rcve
of wide lace of the design that on the basque
At the termination of the revers the overrt ia grace
fully draped and caught with longlooped bows of HIN
satin ribbon Appearing from beneath the basque is
bias drapery which around the entire dress ap
descends at the back large loops Another batis
costume in shaded tints OF uncompaoInising rcd has
great deal of black lace upon 1t. grenadnc toilet
are also ~ red and destitute OF shading by bein
.iuea Win req satin ribbons. More comforting tn
tye when the mercury bos up to the ninetes arc tn
Ieresning mus OF transparent creamy white. palest
pues ana Ialltest OF rose-colOr. beautifully embroidered
oi assed with cascades and pus of lace Black grenn
oes anu indeed most OF the black transparent fabrics
ueh o,uh