The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1881-10-15
Trimmed Bonnets for Autumn.

i've trimmings that depend entirely
upon the size and shape of the bonnets.
Feathers are used upon them all, and
this is the only feature they have in
common. For pokes the object is to
display the outlines of the bonnet,
hence the ribbons are placed very fatty
and the feathers curl away from the
side instead of being clustered against
it and concealing it. Plush and velvet
are the materials most used for pokes,
and these are smooth on the frame. the
shirred interiors being less used than
formerly. Contrasting colors are
chosen for lining brims, and this is of
shaded plush, or else of very long pile
plush of becoming shade, as crevette
or shrimp pink plush is inside of
bronze plush poke, orange plush lines
mordore, or golden brown, bonnet, and
ombre red plush makes a stylish facing
for myrtle green or black pokes. To
complete such a bonnet it is enough to
use watered or satin ribbon three or
four inches wide, double it across the
back of the crown, fasten it with flat
headed gilt pin on each side. and let it
fall thence in strings. Then on the left
side is very large pompon of ostrich
feathers of the color of the plush, above
which are two short ostrich tips that
curl outward from the bonnet. This is
very elegant when made of myrtle green
plush, ribbon of the same color, wa
tered on one side and satin on the other,
a myrtle pompon and two tips that are
shaded green and gold. The pins of
gilt have star-shaped heads, and three
similar pins are thrust bias just below
the crown on the curtain band Other
pokes have the ribbon passed up from
behind the crown, Tapped on top and
tied in stiff, old-fashioned bow that
lies on the right side, thence passing
down as if to tie the sides close to the
head, and then forming strings. A
long Hoped bow with the loops
dropping softly and short ends
fastens the bonnet under the
chin. Sometimes the ribbon bow is tied
at the top of the crown on the left side
and its two loops are sewed fatty on
the back of the crown; this bow seems
to hold the panache of feather tips,
which curl outward and forward on the
left side, and may consist of any num-
Der from two to SIX, or even eight. For
young faces nothing can be prettier
than the pokes of moss green plush with
rose pink lining next the face, and
both colors repeated in the feathers,
while for the more elderly the orange
and dark ruby facings will be used with
old silver colors outside, or brown,
scabieuse, or myrtle green. A ruche
of ostrich feathers on the edge of o
poke is also becoming. warm-looking,
and tones the complexion. The beaver
and felt pokes sold in the shops are
trimmed in the simple styles just de-
scribed. and now that ribbon is used
great many ladies will be successful
with their own millinery.
For small bonnets the foundations
are larger than those worn last year,
and the trimmings are much fuller than
any seen on pokes. The brims are
slightly raised above the front hair,
and may be lined with shirred velvet or
with striped or ploughed" plush, and
rows of long large faceted beads either
net, and these beads are tied together
with gilt cord by the milliner as she
sews them on. There are also large
balls of tinsel, graduated smaller to-
ward the sides, to be used for the same
purpose. Bias plush. lain in corrugated
folds, is outside the brim of small bon.
nets, while the crown is flat. Plumes
nodding out from the crown on
the left or very large aigrette OF
pompon, and some fanciful orna.
ments of old silver, or polished brass,
or metal in the shape of insects or long
pins, complete the trimming. The
strings are invariably of ribbon-plush,
satin, MORE or changeable satin Surah.
If ribbon is used for trimming, it has
the effect of Alsacian bows, though
merely placed in two rows, broadened
at the ends instead of being looped.
Laces also have the same Alsacian effect
given by plating in clusters on each
side of the front. Plated brims are
seen on many velvet bonnets, and there
are some cap crowns, though smooth
crowns, beaded crowns and feather
crowns, especially those of the golden
pheasant, are preferred. The new che
mile and guipure lace is also prettily
massed on the crown, or else allowed
to fall over the edge of the brim in a be-
coming way. Chenille and plush flow
ers of large size, roses, dahlias, nastur-
tiums, asters and lilies are clustered on
the left side of the bonnet quite high
up, instead of dropping as they former
ly did. Birds are also much used on
small bonnets. They are generally cut
in half from beak to tail, and some
times only the head and breast are
used, but more often the whole length
of the bird is given. 1t is placed with
the head upward on the top of the
brim, and q bit of French sentiment
shows turtle doves, or the pure white
dove, with ribbon about the neck that
seems to tie it to the bonnet.
The Longchamps, Bolero and Gains.
borough round hats are of velvet, plush,
beaver or felt. and are trimmed with
feathers, birds and bias scarfs of plush
or velvet, with some guipure and che
mile lace. The ACCORDION crown is the
novelty for such hats. This is four.
corned piece. stifly lined, and resting
upon folds like those of an ACCORDION.
The effect is very pretty in black vel
vet, with the brim lined with solid let
galloon, edged with large faceted Jet
beads, and many nodding ostrich tips
outside. -Harper's BazGr.