The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1881-09-08
Autumn Millinery.

AUTUMN BoNNETs. The taste for pic
turesque dressing continues to manifest
itself in the increased size and quaint
shapes of the bonnets imported for
autumn and winter. Large poke bon
nets with high tapering crowns form
the bulk OF the first importations of
felt, beaver and plush bonnets the
round hats are also large and in pic
turesque irregular shapes; there are,
however, some small bonnets and small
round hats shown, though these are not
nearly so small as those worn last winter
For plain bonnets, felt, which was dis
carded last year, is revived, especially
for small bonnets that will be almost
concealed by trimmings of plush and
feathers. Large bonnets are of the
new mapped felt brushed smooth and
glossy, with the brim left unbrushed to
make it look like fur or plush. The
fronts of pokes are high and narrow, or
else they are rolled back along the
entire edge; the crowns are mostly in
Mother Hubbard shapes. There are
also the Bernhardt pokes so popular
during the summer, with the back of
the crown turned up, and projecting
front that may be worn down on the
forehead, or high above it, according to
the wearer's pleasure. Smooth beaver
or mapped felt pokes have sometimes a
border of clipped ostrich feathers
woven in the brim. Plush poke bonnets
have smooth crowns, while the entire
brims, inside and out, are brushed to
show the deep pile, and sometimes the
brlm is striped in two tones of one
color; again, there are black crowns
with the brim of bronze, old gold, or
drab, or brown crown with ecru brim,
etc. The felt, plush and beaver bonnets
come in bronze, olive and myrtle green,
several shades of red and of brown
with drab, black and white. Small
capotes and also small pokes are shown
In similar colors made of smooth felt
with brush-beaver brims-the name
dealers give to the furry-looking beav,
ers. The Rabagas OF coronet front is
seen on many capotes, while others are
turned up with the square revers seen
on Bolero hats. Among the large hats
the most graceful are the Longchamps
This is shown in felt, with its upturned
brim faced with plush, feathers or vel
vet, and turf of short plumes falling
toward the front from the crown. The
Bolero is another familiar shape, with 6
straight brim turned up squarely all
around, and the upturned edge covered
with dropping lace or beaded fringe
The newest Gainsboroughs and the
peasant shapes have very slender crown,
taperlng almost to a point. Englisl
walking hats are also heightened in the
crowns, but these are not largely i'm
ported, as they are merely neat ant
Jaunty, while the fancy at present is fo
nothing that is not picturesque.
FEATHERS. new hats will b,
laden with plumage almost to the ex
clusion of flowers. Ostrich tips, demi
long. feathers, and the long plumes very
much curled are the first choice. TIE
tips may be all of one tint, or shaded
through several tones of one color, ant
will be made to surround the crow
and curl outward from it on round hats
while on pokes they are massed in {
cluster on one side. Stylish long plume'
are so thick that the single long feather
is not sufficient hence they are
"pieced" under the quill in order tc
make them full and long. Fancy feath
ers are made up in various designs t.
match the glace and shaded plushe.
with which they are combined Tt
make up the feather ornaments boxes O
birds are imported, the feathers arC
stripped from their wings and breasts
and are pasted together in bands ant
coronets, and new colorings are thu
made up. There are whole boxes filleC
with tOurterelleS-meek little doves il
their solemn drab shades smaller case
contain dozens of tiny humming birds
while great wooden chests are fillec
with brilliant impions that are as larg
as turkeys, and are only found on tn
highest mountain peaks many of tn
green-blue feathers and those of flame
colors are taken from these mammotl
birds. The feathers of king-fshers
herons, merles, paroquets, guinea-hens
pheasants, and peacocks are taken apar
and fancifully rearranged. The breast
of humming- birds form medallion
on flame-colored impion turbans. Th
eyes of peacocks' feathers are massed T.
make the Argus turbans in which Eng
lish girls delight, and Mercury wings @
single dark color are added at eac
side of feather bands for crowns. Th
odd Partisan caprice is for minatur
Chanticleer made of the blue-green O
red impion feath 9rs on the body, wit
the scarlet ibis fer the comb, and som
real cocks plumes for the tail. This
offered for side ornament for bonnet
and hats, and is said to be as popula
now in Paris as turtles, lizards an
beetles were formerly.