The National tribune., 1881-11-12
EATING AND DRINKING,

Doubtless most American bon-vivants looking
the erecentlypublshed bill of fare of the Gar
were ready to thank heaven that they were not
born, as thousands are" to eat Russian food
The old tradition that Russians devour candles
as English children eat sticks of candy and drink
traln-oll instead of Burgundy, has died out But
the queer stuff which is prepared for so high and
mighty parsonage as the Emperor of all the
Russlas would turn the stomach of an Anglo
| saxon lt may be admitted without danger of
disturbance to international friendship that the
! Russians aregluttOns, Orrather-let us say-beavv
feeders. They eat fast and they eat a great deal.
Nor can 1t be denied that their feeding is cross.
Moreover, their notions of what GOES tooetbern
in well-Ordered repast are sometimes very oueer
Russian gentleman, long time q resident in the
United States, superciously used to saw that he
hated public dinners; it was possible that at these
feasts one might see men drinking cbampaone
with their fish. Nevertheless, the Grand Duke
Alexis, when he was in this country, drank cham
pagne with his fish, But then he wore colored
cravat to the opera. He was also very young
All this, however, is DEPRESSION. What the
Car eats would probably prove the truth of the
old adage that that which is one mans meat is
another mans poison. How would our club men
and Delmonicos curled darlings fare if, invited
to dine with the Emperor of Russia they should
be asked to whet their appetites on "zukuska,'
instead of the customary raw oyster or Little
Neck clam? The Cars banquet begins with the
terrible zukuska, by way of bonnie bouche. This
dish is composed Of caviar, herring, smoked sal
mon, sardines, smoked goose, sausages cheese,
bread, butter and raw beets stepped in brandy.
Isn't that pretty dish to set before the king?
Even though it be served on golden plates and is
eaten Cor supposed to be eaten) before going into
the banquetng-rOOm a civilized stomach would
certainly revolt against such horrible mess as
this. But worse realains behind, or rather awaits
the happy guest who sits at the table of the Gar
If this grand monarch happens to have ordered
his favorite soup, the 'shtsh" to do honor to his
American visitor, let say, there will appear a
potdge of mutton boiled with beef, onions, garlic,
sweet herbs, beetS, and Spices the meat being cut
in small cubes or iunks. In Russia this is con-
sidered light soup.
But still lighter soup served cold, is said to be
mush of various things. This is the famous
"okroska," mixture of stewed apples, pears,
plums oaten grits, small pieces of meat herring,
and cucumbers The Jenkins of the imperial pal
ton, was taken suddenly i'll, and was compelled
to bring his catalogue to close by remarking
that full account of the luxury of the imperial
table would take him too far. What he meant
by I" too far" we leave to the imagination of the
reader. And yet the Gar of all the Russias one
of the most tremendous potentates upon the
eats Ib--a .A--- Hn .or. aa
likes re.a. l- s.rs a- does Eh.cE Fser g.-.s
.na same sbiog. The tristt-tI a.z+-.z 5aa- es
have aases bod a- Russian. and as 10 tntFe-z a
Is ~ -.sissEsu ~ az eats .5l-=- 3,=a al .--..5s
-1.- 10 ~ 1850. ,,e.tu,r urau ulrU
original barbarism of man survives in his choice
of food Doubtless King Kalakaua, in the privacy
of his royal closet furtively devours slice of raw
missionary by way of sOlace for the indigeStible
cooked stuff which slavish regard for the con-
ventionaities Of life cOmpels him to eat. Never
theless civilized men will pity the Gar, who in
addition to the daily terrors of assassination, is
fed with incongruous and non -assimilative hodge
podge.
Perhaps, however, the variations in maa's gus
tatory Judgment are due to heredity, not to edu-
cation. 1t may require few centuries to extin-
guish in the imperial Cossacks those fierce and
crude appetites which they have inherited from
barbaric forefathers. The Latin race feeds on
garlic and onions it fed on those pungent roots
when their luxurious ancestors mingled sea-wateT
with their wine, and smacked their lips over the
revolving mixture. What are called national
dishes are usually unsavOry to those who are not
to that manner born. When Lord Ashburton
was in this country he was invited to dine at
Nahant, with party of Boston nabobs, fish
chowder being one of the crOwning features OF
the repast. 1t is said that his lOrdship being
pressed to give perfectly candid opinion Of this
replied: " have eaten many na-
tional dishes, In many lands, but never anything
so bad as this" A Swedish nObleman of high
degree treated TO a private banquet by a New
York friend, who was anxious to do him honor,
put morsel of teTrapin into his mouth, and then,
overcome with terror, rejected it with the single
exclamation Waugh" 4 Cheyenne Indian
given bit of salt goldfish by hOspitable Yam
kee in Kansas spat it out with energy, secured
his tongue with corner OF his blanket, and
;ried, Indignantly: You too much foOlee mel
All of which proves that unreasOning hered-
tary prejudice guides the taste of the world in
matters OF choice for the palate. Probably no
,ducation would make chowder endurable to Il
nan who had reached maturity before he expeT-
mented with it. Terrapin, the pride OF Mary
and, is worse than caviar to the general run OF