The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1881-03-26
Spring and Summer woolens.

Ne
THE new wooden fabrics for spring
and. summer dresses are twills of light
quality, or else they have smooth, even
surface that is very loosely woven. To
make such goods of the purest wool and
of least weight has been the object with
manufacturers this winter, as the various
cotton goods have been brought to such
perfection that they have almost driven
summer woolens out of use. Hence
there are many new stuffs as transparent
as the sheerest muslins, yet of the plant
woods that make graceful clinging dra-
peries. Bayonnaise is one of these fab
RIGS that has long been a favorite in
black for ladies who dress in mourning;
this is now shown in white, drab, French
gray, pale blue, and other delicate
shades, for making the entire dress on
silk foundation. Nuns yelling and the
fine French buntings, with many quail
ties of what is called wool-muslin, are
shown again in all the colors used last
year, and in some new tints, such as
maize, gray, and olive. HA
Thicker wool goods, sufficiently heavy
for the early spring months, are shown
in stripes, both lengthwise and baya-
dere, plaids Orn6re (shaded), shepherds
checks, and bordered patterns. The
colors in these are very rich, and are
quantity combined, so that they produce
a quiet effect, Notwithstanding a great
deal of red and yellow is used. There
are suggestions of Oriental tates in the
richness OF these colors, yet the English
fa i,N( iaEc
are also recalled by the dark grounds
slightly illuminated by threads of bril-
liant colors. Onsbre or shaded figures,
stripes, and plaids prevail, and to grad
uate a single color through all its tones,
from the darkest to the highest,
is marked feature of new fabrics of
all qualities of wool, and also of silk
for trimmings. Among the new colors
is Vandyck red, which is darker and
softer than the cardinal shades so long
used; q great deal of reseda, or mig
nonette-color, is revived-a gray-green
tint that contrasts prettily with many
shades; porcelain blue is lovely with
white, and also combines well; there is,
beside, great deal of olive and of
clear deep green, with the natural beige
tints SO long used, and a new vivid gel
low almost as bright as that of Marshall
Neil roses. at &c.,
For travelling dresses and nice wool
suits there are heavy beiges and light
camel 's-hair stuffs, with ground made
up OF mule ran stripes-the merest
threads of olive, drab, reseda, or poree-
lain blue, alternating with cream white
lines-and provided on one selvedge
with solid stripe for bordering in some
rich shade that trims well. This border
is often woven like Chuddah TO give zig
gag clearinghouse effects. Pin-head
checks sometimes take the place of the
narrow stripes on the body of these goods.
The cross stripes, called bayadere, are
shown in very quiet and also in very gay
colors for combining with plain goods.
The latest fashion plates show very
graceful short dresses, with single
skirt and double-breasted basque. The
skirt is covered with founces of two
widths, the wider flounces of the baya-
dere being double the width of the mar
row frills of single color. The basque
is of the single shade, with collar, revers
and cuffs of the stripes. Sometimes
these stripes are used diagonally, and
sometimes lengthwise as well as hori-
zontally; they are also effective for lin
ing and facing plain stuffs, only glimpses
of the lining being seen inside the revers
and other retrousse bands that are shown
on new costumes.
The wooden plaids like those in cotton
goods are no longer Scotch tartans, but
are mixtures of Madyas colors, with the
English designs in cloths worn by gen.
tlemen, and these are combined with
fanciful French tastes; thus the large
plaids will be made up of small checks,
the inner block will be single color,
and the bars will give the illuminated
threads of Vandyck red, green, etc,
There are also half-transparent fabrics
that mix these colors up without any
apparent design, yet produce very
rich effect Mixed silk and wool stuffs
for parts of suits are shown in block
patterns, each block half an inch square,
one block with satin surface being next
a wooden one; contrasts of colors are
the rule in these, such as dark green
with old gold, yandyck red with blue,
olive with pale blue, and white with
cream, blue or pink. These will be
used for basques of dresses that have
plain wool for the skirt.-Harper'S