New-York tribune., 1881-08-15


the whole water front Pretty. quiet walks run
along under strange palms and pines.and past flower
beds, fountains and statuary. One walk leads
along the balustraded seawall where one can look
down the dark washerwomen. mostly itahans
and many of them beautiful 10 variegated dresses
barefooted aud barcarmed. washing the cltys
soiled linen at tow tide. There they sit Oh the mud
banks and slap, and pound, and rinse away In the
dirty water. One wonders how they can expect 10
cleanse anything but they do, and hang out the
garments over acres of the low. moss-covered Hat
You would hardly beilevc that vessels are un-
loaded by ca ts here. Immense two-wheeled trucks
drawn by mules horses, hitched tandem, are
driven out to the lighters in the water and though
the waves come to the horses necks, they carry
their loads high and dry to the shore. Some
sels too get stranded quarter of mile away from
shore. while others are discharged ut the Central
Pier, where there are railroad tracks and small To-
conotves to land the merchandise.
The buildings are mostly of soft brick plastered
walks and streets narrow, and there trees
IN the streets AT distance however the trees of the
2atios rising above the roofs. make the city look
well shaded. The sidewalks run under lofty vauted
arcades making them very cool IN Summer.
NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS.
There many natonalitles in New York, Int
they become assmilated and do as Americans 90 !;
but here everyone holds to his country's costumes
and customs tcnac,ousy than he " oud at home
First there old proud Castian Spaniards
purer-beoded here, some say than IN Europe; Eng
land and Scotland in strong force France and
Deutschland; Italy; handsome snaky looking
Greeks, and several thousands of wide
awake Americans. Of course it is =
Spanish country, but tho French language
does service almost everywhere. The Spaniards
affect French manners that it is safe
to address anyone in French, and if he does not
derstand he will be all attention to he thinks
Frenchman.
The climate though IT is now ulidwntcr here. is
not often 80 cold az to make need fire. There
was a white frost the other night, but it
occurrence 1t seelus strange to hear people speak
OF the warm north and cold south winds. There
has been some dark, foggy rainy weather, and
windy too. The pampnos southwest Winds AVID
Mt times carrying gravel stones from the shore as
far as the shipping three to nine miles There seem
to be considerable diphtheria aud smallpox in the
city, notwithstanding its narne of good air" Per
haps this y explained by the eXecrable system of
sewerage
There is a pretty park at Palermo n few miles
from the city. Its avenue OF pams is superb and it
has fine tot of the wild animals of the country in
cages, including laglIars. pumas aud others. There
are many railroads centrng here. and they do
good business. lam told. Trains leave often for
the country resorts &s from New York to Coney
Island. But there is difference in the comfort of
riding mover was so joltod before in my life.
though did feel little reconciled and at home on
glanciug ut the name of the makers of a and
reading familiar United States firm narue Amer
icaus would laugh at the primcra ciesse. The first
class viii be blue with smoke that one will
step back thinking it the smoking car, Int
smoke in their facesf Yes aud ten to one the
women's dainty hnger will hold cigarettes. while
clouds of blue smoke waited from their lips into
ones face. soon learned thai cond not pass the
Cathedral without running the gauntlet of novel
tngly. and stretched out coored cigarettes wax
like fingers, saying so snasively Cigarros,
Sena ~ and adding such coaxing invitations in
their Innslcal tongue that you would wonder who
could resist. These were daughters OF the aristoc-
raey, selling articles for the church.
never bciore such city for dress The very
clerks look if g"ing out To dine and the ladies are
free with their rich colors. not CANDY and with
ragr ioi thing. hut each taking the color hest
suited for her. have stopped often to look even at
corner gr"ory the effect of arranged colors so
dazzling. Think not If you s'e a street to-day you
will know u 10 ,noIrow 1t will he in "a new blaze
OF glory, changing apparently AZ easily rs kaledo
scope.
CREATURE COMFORTS.
There are me- milk carts here A donkey stands
at the door with huge pile of skin cans on
his back. and the rider dressed in Turkish style
serves out the fluid Another qnite common custom
is to drive the with her calf through the streets
and milk into the tumblers given by tho doormaids
Horses left at door not tied their fore feet ara
hobbled There fine markets which present
busy III the morning. The water carts and
the carts oi produce drawn by great soft-eyed oxen
another sight thought first the wide wheels
were made for driving out in the water but on going
TO the country saw it becanse of the mud Right
by these quaint things yoa the regular horsecar
with driver and conductor The lattor has no bell
but blows blast big cows horn that nearly
lifts you out of your boots. Only track is laid
In a street, aud the corner building
shows which way the cars run. The water here is
very bad, taken from the river, and often makes
strangers sick. Delicious pears. oranges, and
bananas to be had here the oranges beir,g very
large and casting only cent piece. think they
raised IN the pahOs.
My hotel model one, with small entrance and
nnpretending outside. hut for quiet, elegance and
comfort unrxcellcd A private ventilating shaft
Keeps nr perpetual breeze in INV room, which has
. waststtud bureau wardrobe polished China
ever and basin. comfortable. clean bed aud wax
candies for light. At o'clock the bells in the Ner-
cod Church awake one, and tap electric bell
summons dark Apollo of "a waiter who brings
enough coffee for three cups, half-pnt of warmed
milk halt u loaf of bread, and butter Breakfast is
at and most elaborate meal, after which you
may find few languid Spanards ready TO do bust
but do moi call senorita for they are NOT M
yet Dinner LIS from 4 TO O'Clock. and is composed
OF many conrses-soup fish, game meat, confections
fruit etc. The waiteIs quick "A flash and
peso itour centsl ~ received gratefully and then
though they viii do their best IN any event.
j saw the comet juno 5 abont halfway he
tween Sirius aud the bnght southern star Cano-
{us ana neal the horizon IL had very bright
through bright moonlight We get scraps of news
occasionally hy cable and from European papers
here. and circnlates largely and makes money for
Its editor. He - known w. III. Low but I am
sold that be is the notorious Winsow They tell me
lsf gets little recoapitlon in American society here
have not Sfcn painting in the place. Art evidently
has uo votaries here. though there Is evidences
enough Of high civilization.
AMusEMENrs THE PEOPLE
Icalled one evening at the house of very pleas
ant English gentleman, where after having had din.
and proving to the youog gentlemen that
oould not play billiards. they said they had box at
the theatre, and invited me to go So we went, and
saw the favorite of the city, Comma Cuniberti
who creates immense enthusiasm here She is very
young. and il called the Child Ristori II il soid