Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-11-01


the deep basque bodice fitting a rounded
figure like glove. the plaid appearing in small
side pockets and fiat coat collar and cuffs. A
soft colored elastic material is new and used
for jackets, one stripe being elastic and the
other laid IN clustered pleatings. 1t is intended
for Jersey costumes.
WALKING DRESSES.
The winter walking dress, par, excellence,
is of dark plush and consists of a coat or half
fitting Jacket and plain skirt which clears the
ground 1t is simple in appearance and OBJ
tains its distinction solely from the cost of the
material which is from three to ten dollars
per yard suit: plain as it looks, is valued at
from three TO four hundred dollars and,
though finished with every attention to detail,
is only becoming to somewhat tall and very
slender figures for it has the effect of shorten
ing and MAKING them look what is technically
known as "bunchy."
Plain velvet suits are equally expensive and
more susceptible to grace of outline. These are
usual y made of fine killings of satin ia front
or at the sides and box plated back. The
coat may be cut with lappels or as a deep
basque, with square terraced sides, and a seam
at the waist line across the front. The trim
ming may be narrow lines of very fine god
braid which does not tarniSh. But the basque
or coat of these velvet or plush costumes is al
ways faced with satin, and has not unfrequent-
ly plated satin vest or plastron, which forms
a continuation of the tablier.
Simpler walking dresses, and those which are
more generally u eful, are of dark cloth or
serge, with double or single breasted basque,
slightly cut away from the front disclosing
shirred or plated scarf, which forms a close
drapery across the front of the killed skirt. A
fiat coat collar at the neck is supplemented by
a narrow standing one, and a double row OF
buttons ornaments the front of the basque.
Some Of the designs have panelled sides en-
riched with a soutache in several shades of the
color of the cloth. over the single self color.
The jacket is then braided to match.
Other walking dresses are of heather cloth
in the pretty dark mixtures that are now so
fashionable, made with three killings in front
and draped back over a killed fource, the
white dress being Princesse, with a straight
coachman's cape of plush in a darker shade of
color. A girdle of thick cord is looped and
knotted over the drapery at the back
costume may be enriched or made more
dresSy by reducing the cloth dress to the
dimensions of a PrinceSS9 polOnaiSe and wear
ing it over flounced skirt of red or wine
colored satin, with hat of felt or velvet
trimmed with feathers in different shades Of
red or wine colOrs.
long close-itting polonaise of billiard cloth,
draped high upon the left side with thick silk
over dark mulberry velvet skirt. The hat is
a Rembrandt of mui berry velvet or felt and is
trimmed with five ostrich plumes in shades of
mulberry tipped with gray-the color of the
cloth. This polonase is also worn over black
velvet with large hat OF black beaver trim
med with black plumes, without any trace OF
color.
TIE POCKET MUFF.
The pocket muff is not an ephemeral fashion
1t grows in favor and has been improved until
1t now assumes very useful and practical
shape. The latest designs are of cloth. velvet
or plush to match the dress, the pocket in front
forming a morocco bag for change, a purse
visiting cares or paper slips; The top opens
used for a handkerchief or small purchases
The sides are open and ruffied at the top, the
interior lining being of plush or fur
Round toques are often made to match these
suite, the crown being fitted to the head
ghlrFiOpg hplnU pyb fc
the narrow puffed brim. A cloth vel
vet or velveUeen suit complete is as
coavf nient and handsome a winter dress
as could be desired, and on the score of com.
fort the cloth is superior to the velvet Velvet
Is so easily rubbed up and fiattened that it is a
source OF constant anxiety to those who have
to use walking" dresses for walking; and the
heather mixtures in cloth are not only more
suitable for the purpose but they are distin-
tinguished by the approval OF the best authori-
ties
Furs have received a decided set back
through the long continued warm weather
and the influence Of plush. To the
use Of fur lined cloakS is charged
many aggravated affections of the throat an
chest, increasing tenderness Of the lungs and
other affections OF like character. There are
days of arctic severity in our Northern climate
when a fur-lined or furred mantle of some
kind seems almost necessity, but, after all
ladies who can afford furred or fur-lined coaks
rarely venture out in such bitter weather,
while the temptation is to make it serve every
purpose, the cost being such that few women
can AFFORD more than one handsome street gar
ment. These considerations are reducing tho
number of those who desire fur-Iinea sill
cloaks, and adding to tae popularity OF plush,
which is not open to the same objections
in it's lighter qualities and at a dis.
tanee presents in the tar patterns a precisely
similar appearance. Plush, too, has the addi-
tional advantage OF a greater variety Of color
and design, and the peculiar beauty of the
plush designs adds another charm to fhe em-
ployment of the fabric,
Seal fur retains its vogue but Fashion by no
means restricts itself to one or two kinds of
fur, or to the darkest shades of color. Chin
chilia and gray-mixed fur known as Russian
are used for SETS and also for trim
mlngs, the sets consisting of small muff and
collar shaped like an almost ST. aght small old
fashioned Vizsori1e. Natural beaver intro |
auGed last season, is also very much admired, |
but Is sold more in "skatiDg'r sets-straight |
coachman's cape and muff-than in any other
form.
Still, as before remarked furs have been
mucn broken up, partly by the trimming or |
of cloth and other cloaks with fur |
or plush collars, the introduction of the pocket
mum and muffs to match the costume, and |
lastly by the long continued mild weather, |
which prevents people from buying furs until |
they consider 1t too late to buy at all or have !
provided themselves with what they are |
willing to accept as substitute. Long haired |
furs have quite gore out. The fashionable |
furs have q short soft pile, and the furs which |
have mixture of tints seem to have the pre- |
ference over those which are dark and solid.