Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-11-01
THE EVENING STAR.
NEW YORK FASHIONS.

NEW YORK FASH IONS.
House and Street Costumes Winter
FabricsThe Scarlet Woman md Her
Belon gings - Preparations for the
Gay Season.
From Our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK. October 81.
There never was a season when so much that
was rich and beautiful In fabric and material was
pressed into the service OF the dresSmaker's art
Manufactured designs go back to the days Of the
nrst Napoleon, and reproduce fac SMILES OF the
richest stus used for upholstery well as ladies'
AZURE, and supplement these with whatever art
ana ingenuity can devise in the way Of fanciful
variation from an original idea.
. Inc preference this season seems to be altogether
OF SOFT thick satins velvets and pushes
s. SiAu Win designs which are raised so decid-
Hiy as 10 give them the effect of being put In re-
met For example, there are garnet satins enriched
the minuti8 OF the most delicate lace and have no
tounterpaTI except among the magnificent fabrica-
az ior upholstery in the royal apartments
AT fohtainbleau and Versailles The lace pattern
Is woven IN so closely to form part OF the en-
1ire body or the silk so that IL will literally wear
as long as thread remains OF it, and be ALWAYS
handsome for garniture. 1t is used for the fronts
OF Trained and also OF walking dresses and pre-
Sents the appearance of lace embroidery exc
cuted In minute bead work.
Slcllienne, which has heretofore been mainly
USED Tor coaks, is this winter employed for trains
and also the bodice The colors are such as are
only appropriate for rich dinner dresSes-salmon
pink, Old gold, cardinal, Nile, olive and myrtle
green and mulberry brown.
In velvet brocadeS very new and rich effects are
produced by combining the cut and uncut lines In
the formation OF leaf and floral designs upon a
thlck twilled satin foundation
Inc pushes are the most varied of all the rich
fabricS which have been made to do duty In the
service OF the caprcious goddess OF Fashion. OF
some OF them the close pile is quarter OF an inch
thick, and exqusitely shaded. so as to produce
the eject OF softest animal fur. In some, the
irregular lines in light shades or brown upon dark
seal LOOK like the skin OF the alligator. In Others
the zeora, the tiger and leopard skins are appar-
ehtiy reproduced. Others have festooned effects,
ana Stll Others lightning-like darts or rainbowed
StrpeS, and these, OF course, are most suitable for
innings and are principally used for that purpose
AN extraordinarily effective pattern in plush has
large raised figure In the lighter shades OF brown
upon soft thick velvety pile marked with small
creScentS In the darker shades so as to be almost
artistic and require artistic treatment In the dspo
SitOn or them. To cut them up is to destroy
tnem. They require massing in unbroken lines,
ana are therefore used principally for trains the
rich Innings OF black brOcaded cloaks and for coats
enriched only with artistic buttons
me CLOTHS OF the season are very attractive in
the dark solid colors and feather mixtures They
are used for complete suitS-dress muT toque hat,
ana exterior coat or Jacket-and also for the
braided Over-dreSSeS and ClOse-fitting princesse
pol0naise, draped high upon one side over a satin
or plain velvet skirt.
Quite a boon to economists has been developed
CniS season IN a new make OF velveteen, intro
duced as the NOnpareil, and at extremely mOder-
ate prices The changes OF fashion and the hard
renders t Mcn we subject clothes in great cities
Velvet, out OF the question for any but the very
wealthy yet there are many purposes for which an
desirable, and the want seems to be met in the
Nonpareil velveteen. The pile OF this imported
IaDrlc Is short, thick, and soft and looks more like
Iea VelVet tnan any heretofore used In fact the
Destquanty it requires an expert to distinguish
the difference, the s'cotton" appearance having
or waKnss % rio Of Is
and for girls and children's wear. jacket OF red
nOnparell velveteen with abot OF white lace the
waist is a charming addition to the wardrobe OF
young girl who has not many party changes and
coSts mere trifle In black and brown IL is excel
lent or skirts with cloth overdresses and it also
makes very distinguished looking "PrinceS" suits
for boys.
A beautiful plaid cloth has been introduced in
DARK green, with lines Of red and fine bars OF white
winch is very effective and much used for trim
ming dark green dreSSes-and suits. The prettiest
are IN the Jersey form with killed skirts and scarf
drapery of the plaid; the deep basque bodice fit
ting rounded figure like glove, the plaid ap-
pearing In small side pockets and fat coat collar
ana Guns: sort colored elastic material is new
ana used Tor jackets, one stripe being elastic and the
other laid In clustered pleat1ngS IL is intended
Jersey costumes.
WALKING DRESSES.
The winter walking dress, par excellence is of
dark plush and consists of coat, or half fitting
jacket, and plain skirt which clears the ground.
1t Is simple in appearance and obtains its distinc-
ton solely from the cost of the material, which is
from three to ten dollars per yard. suit. plain as
It looks, is valued at from three to four hundred
dollars, and though finished with every attention
to detail is only becoming to somewhat tall and
very slender figures for it has the effect of short
enlng and making them look what is technically
Plain velvet suits are equally expensive and
more susceptible to grace OF outline. These are
at the sides and box-plaited back The coat may
be cut with lappeis or as deep basque, with
square terraced sides, and seam at the waist line
across the 'front.' The trimming may be narrow
lines of very fine gold braid, which does not tar
nlSh But the basque or coat OF these velvet or
plush costumes is always faced with satin and has
not unfrequently plated satin vest or plaStrOn,
which forms continuation OF the tablier.
Simpler walking dresses and those which are
with double OF single breasted basque slightly cut
away from the front, disclosing a shirred or
plated scarf which forms close drapery across
the front OF the Killed SKIRT fiat coat collar at
the neck is supplemented by a narrow standing
one and a double row of buttons ornaments the
'front.' OF the basque. Some of the designs have
panelled sides enriched with SOntache in several
shades OF the color of the cloth, or in the single
self color The jacket is then braided to match.
Other walking dresses are OF heather cloth In
the pretty dark mixtures that are now SO fashion,
able-made with three killings in front and
draped back over Killed 1Ounce, the white dress
being prinCeSSe with a straight cOachman'S cape
OF plush In a darker shade OF color. A girdle of
thick cord is looped and knotted over the drapery
at the back.
A costume may be enriched or made more dressy
by reducing the cloth dress to the dimensions OF
prncesse polonaise and wearing it over bounced
skirt OF red or wine cOlOred satin, with hat Of
felt or velvet, trimmed with feathers in different
shades of red or wine colors.
A very stylish walking dress consists OF a long
clOse-fitting pOlOnaise OF billiard cloth, draped
high upon the left side with thick silk over dark
mulberry velvet skirt. The hat is Rembrant, OF
mulberry velvet or felt and is trimmed with five
ostrich plumes in shades OF mulberry tipped with
grey-the color OF the cloth OF this polOnaise is
also worn over black velvet with a large hat of
black beaver, trimmed with black plumeS, without
any trace of color.
TIE POCKET MUFF.
The pocket muf is not an ephemeral fashion.
1t grows in favot and has been improved until it
now assumes Very useful and practical shape
The latest designs aye OF cloth, velvet, or plush to
match the dress, the pocket in front forming a
morocco bag for change, purse. visiting cards, or
paper slips. The top opens and forms a silk-lined
reticule, which can be used for a handkerchief or
small purchases. The sides are open and ruff1ed,
as is the top, the interior lining being of plush or
fur
Round tOqueS are often made to match these
suits, the crown being fitted to the head by a
series OF shirr1ngS, below which is the narrow
lOfh vplv