New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-09-30
THE FASHIONS.
FALL OPENINGS OF MILLINERY


HISTORY IN THE JEWELLERS ARr-PopULAR
wRAPs-CosrUMEs FOR AUTUMN WEAR-srYLEs
FOR CHILDREN.
Women have been the frequent theme of
ihoralsts and satirsts of every age Among some
Vi tne earliest records is the fierce war made
against their Weakness vanity and hnery, accom-
panied by highly colored desert l,tions of what
punishment they must anticipate in the world to
COME fashon now returns to the days of the
fiots ana Danes for some of its latest ideas dress
ana heagear and, later TO the eighteenth century for
thetrbans with hripipes cOifs pokes helmets and CABS
The popular Marie stuart bonnet has never lost ts
PRESTIGE and still graceful model for the mil
liner 10 exercise her skill upon. During the past
seasons there from the ashes bygone days the
great straw hat, tied under the chin flowing back
cahed the Pamela and 1t Is favorite to-day. The
Renaissance, the cottage onee graceful Gansbor-
ogh return also; AMI there is the Obesk n giant
among the pgIny family. The golden mean is difficult to
ma In the glare of bonuets there is
no more shade taste or perspcctive than
IN the chinese landscape tea tray Others of
rVshng beauty and perfect from largest
smallest, eInhodying the exquisite MANAGEMENT OF
colors melody in tonics, diatonics. eemi-tones and
demi-Semi- luavers, the gamut of harmony which NJ
Chevreal has given TO color thousand
tones Managed with aesthetic grace the effect
'Soharnhhg Naturally there are exaggeraons for in
stance the new coaching hat of the Devonshre shape
something appalling in size, and the trimmings CORE
sp"nd one of these shapes in lizard green edged
with gold braid The lining Is velvet the same shade
OF green An Amazon ostrich plume delicate shrimp
finding into green is placed on one side. and on
the otherthere is pouf of shrimp feather tips Some
immense velvet bows complete the trimming. The
eighteenth century caleche cabrolet is revived OF
lesser SIZE IMAM those worn over the of
hur powder ana pomatum, which LETT unopened for
from three to nine weeks This sty covers the Mother
hupphiu also Some OF the most elegant GainsbOrOugh
hats OF black felt, plush straw have "A trimming on
one side OF ten or twelve shaded coOred .thors
Neither rfhboQ string is added.
Ihls graceful na the Lon gchamps and olcro of past
fame, il too popular be ignored therefore il com,
aSah TINS autumn of such materials push, velvet
telt HEAVIER and satu, The model hats are In all man.
c III orohze shades aud every shade OF red from tho
htcst tint OF crashed strawberries copper to the
intense suane the golden brown Of the Pheasant and
coilee-hean brown the delicate shrimp pink champagne
primrose, duh bottle lizard greet the vivid MUS
TARA yellow OF the East, creamy white aud gold, all
seen III the materials ribbons, feathers flowers
new bonnets. Bronze shades the present are the
favorte coors used by tine of the Paris
houses. novelty TIE accordion crown the name ex
plains Its appearance in the folds which lined with
some very stiff fabric the piece itself being our-cor-
hered Some of the winter bOnncts 81 velvet have
plcated brims stun or hard crowns are generally pre-
ferred to the cap crown Tney seldom plain but
are beaded in handsome patterns Others are made nj
together OF feathers.
large cabroiet bonnet Of the striking colors
proves mcontestiby that must in some eases Weld
'o ashou Ihe felt, OF yellow brown dead leaf has
lining OF plush, with stripes sultane rcd and mus.
tara yellow the same shade Of red satin nervolleux
Is gracefully draped about the crown with yellow
long plume is laid around the brim composed of the
plulnase oil some brilliant tropical bird.
BONNET TRAININGS.
great deal OF attention Is paid ribbons These
are used to greater than for several decades
Watered or plain SATIN ribbon is simply placed in
'front.' OF o' behind the crown aud pinned serves
for strings Feathers placel on the left side In
large pretty, pompons decaely shaded the color
OF the bonnet. The bow tied top also "A revival of
past fashion; this also passes down tu6 sides and tied
under the chin. In fact, tho economical ones VIII have
very little trouble In trimming their poke bOnnrts alter
having seen model or reading a description. plush
bonnet has a plush lining with velvet The rbDon
used is about four inches wide slcuder faces three
INCHES wi d. for the large chins bottle or lizard
green bonnet maE be lined Th the say,l OF striped
plu-h ana the srin OF the came material sriu1s
however, are mon imperative On: while very fnshona lo
depend upon the caprice Of the u many casrs
they are not becoming. and fashion il hbr,nl.
some velvet bonnrts are lined with pilsh; or the
reverse The delicate snrm? pink which Is also the
color OF the nucr lip II The couch shell ia lining nit
charmngly With the bronze or brown salc. SOM, ~
the shaded reds are used 20 line black, olive green or
gray bonncs The strings fastened the sides with
goa ornaments OF extraordinary shapcs some oi these
are of medieval fashion, copies phtina and gold OF
bcakshapod yisors. aud little unue TOP to hold
a waving plume OF feathers; the eadlyug, ON tbe
steel gauntlet initiated into gold bosses in
the shape of lions and ieopards; "A little slender
piece OF chain mali attached barrel or To helmet
winch forms the heads OF long gol pins purpose
OF fastening the strngs sides OF tue hat OtDer.
ihtrr periods In the closest imitation az
dragons, the rose. the cuch the chain buce cornet
and pigeons wings These made mostly OF oxydizsd
silver and gilt.
NATURAL HISTORY ~ MILLINERY
Not to be OutdOne by The ancionis, modern French
jewellers ana workers In metals send out hdeous ewery
Tor bonnet decorations and for other wear In the shape
OF Hfeke huge spiders, crabs and
oI the hVcicst imaginative description; small
crocodiles, bees dragon dies, garter spales
snais, shrmps, e asshoppcrs, wolfheads. mako
up the catalogue OF these quaint conceits In metals
colored by alloys; patina gold silver. and costly
gems are also used In the manufacture these uuiaue
works OF too natural II predicted that this new
fancy VIII circulate through cycopD liza of natural
history the pensive soth, pae-eyed and the
cam the graceful eel the no wiling gya cutcus and the
ringailed monkey may appear In the magnincence of
patlna and oxdized silver aud gold with owclled eyes
ana ehqustely enanred To grace the bOnnets scarfs
cuffs ana lace barbes adorned by the wlsest trh
Ancient buckles set with Irish diamonds and paste are
revived.
Some OF the hornets are shown of the most vivid
scarlet. model poke lately imported Ia IA blaze OF
light from the scarlet shrred satin lining gracefully
arranged covering OF the frame sweeping long
plume OF the same color. There is happy relief In the
slight mixture of white combining with the wide scarlet
tile strings The piqiant Tam OShanter turban cap
of the past summer Ia returned after IA absence
WIN ,iie cown mhue gay WIN scarlet satD ana the
rounding band OF ghttering beads A pretty poke of
acncaie green plush has facing Of wild rose pink; the
trimming OF feathers shows the two colors united:
ensemble seems live lovely hidden in It's
foliage.
Among lately imported trimmings there are some nets
of chenille. OF varlegated in Oriental coors let
and pearl used for covering the bonnets aud
hats Birds OF strange, bright plunage perch
brim with head upliited and open bea they are dis
posed on The side, cur In half Pairs of pretty
doves are placed on the lett OF plush bonnet
and white doves with sam ribbon about their necks