Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1881-03-16
GEuMPSES Of THE FASHIONS.
New Spring BOnnets--.The Direc-
tOiFe MantIe-.-PeculiariIles Of
the Latest Imported Costumes
--SimpIe Styles In Spring
Dresses.
New York Evening Post.l

Now lOIk Evening fOst,l
B%uttercups are in market.
Silk bonnets are in high favor anC
are made to match the toilet.
The shooting jacket now so popula,
is becoming only to slender figures.
Plush will be used upon spring cos
tunes of cheviOt, cloth and cashmere
Uncut velvet in changeable colori
will be used this season as a dress
trimming.
Henry II. toques of plush or velvet
are favorite hats both in Paris anG
London.
The corsage bows of satin to be worn
at the left side of the belt have reach
ed absurd dimensions.
Embroidery and hemstitching in
the highest styles of decorative art are
now applied to table linen.
The most fashionable porte bonheul
of the moment is the bracelet formed
of old silver medals.
The old fashioned flowing sleeves of
lace are again popular. The wide
directoire collars are worn with them.
Dove colOred silk stockings en-
broidered in colOrs to match the toilet
are the very latest novelties in French
hosiery.
Egyptian scarabees and South Amer
lean beetles have been s~upplanted by
%locusts and Texas tarantulas formed
of gold and enamel inlaid with imita-
ton jewels.
Bridesmaids wear short wells of
white silk tulle, and shoulder capes
and dainty mouchoir muffs, formed
entirely of white flowers and edged
with trills of rich lace.
Chenille flowers and foliage are very
fashionable; they are used for coiffnres
and the trimming Of bonnets, and are
especially pretty and effective when
twisted among the braids and coils of
the hair.
Brocaded and plaid Surah is much
used for brides on spring bonnets. A
pair Of these broad scarf-like strings,
with an Alsacian bow on the crown of
the hat, is all the trimming that is
needed to transform a winter bonnet
into bright looking head dress suitable
to wear until the June breezes blow.
The Louis XIV coat basque for street
wear will continue in favor. The ma
.terial for these coats is generally of
black embossed velvet, as they can be
be worn over skirts Of every descrip-
ton. The coat requires very little of
garniture except the buttons, which
must be very handsome.
Steel lace is a novel fancy in millin-
cry trimmings, although gold and
silver laces retain their popularity,
and Spanish, Nemours, Renaissance
and laces wrought in designs Of white
Derbyshire spar beads, and seed pearls
have appeared in large quantities, and
are much employed in the formation
of opera and reception bonnets.
Newly imported costumes are all
bouffan in effect about the hips, but
narrow, plain and clinging around the
lower portions of the skirts. The
sharply peaked bodice is also a feature
Of these toilets, many Of them having
handsome ichus of lace to be worn
over them. The general effect is a
resemblance to the costumes Of
the eighteenth century.
Some of the new spring bonnets are
studded with mock jewels, and some
Of the fancy braids are dotted with
straw buttons and crystal beads.
The bright yellow straws have the
precedence of pure white. although
the white chips are unusually delicate
and beautiful, and are exceedingly
graceful in shape. The Belgian split
braids and the Florence and
Tuscan straws are equally attractive
and new in design.
The new directoire mantle is made
very long and is exceedingly graceful.
The wrap is shirred over the neck and
shoulders and is made of dark bronze,
or black %vigOgne, lined with gold col
Ored Surah silk, end trimmed with
amber, bronze and gold beaded orna-
ments. Sometimes the mantle is
formed Of heavy black Sicilielne,
lined with crimson and trimmed with
sparkling ornaments of jet and Hun
cords and spikes.
Although the spring dress fabrics
are exceedingly elegant in color and
design, there is anotioeable and happy
tendency toward simplicity of style in
the formation Of garments made Of
new material. Street costumes
are made in the severe style 30 popu-
lar last seasOn-the Trinitariai dress
being a decided %favorite. This cos
tune will be much in vogue during
and is invariably made Of black.
Another popular dress 10 be worn
during this season is a short killed
Ofblack HindOo cashmere with
! draping Of the same material laid
over II in heavy upright folds. A jer-
bodice is added, and over this
ie worn a pelerine Of black fur
Dr. plush.
A very pretty spring bat In the
Belle Bourbonnaire" shape is Of sill
YER gray Belgium braid, trimmed with
! large bow ofdoye colored satin mer-
'eilleux, edged with steel lace. A
pray Of wild rOsea and leaves IL fas-
ened under the boy and brought