National Republican., 1881-11-05
WINTER FASHIONS.
SOME RICH DRESS MATERIALS.
Beautiful Trimming Evening Coinurcs-Scason.
able Colors-Toilct Yarieties-Personal
Notes Of well.Rnown Women
Facts for the Ladies.

You will sec bayadere stripes uniquely
outlined with threads Of tinsel.
Moire satin is greatly admired. Fancy
plush comes in graduated colors.
Some of the brocade pushes show large
floral patterns, arabcsqued on satin
Brocaded and striped velvets are sue
cessful fabrics In forming rich combinations.
Ombre plush presents harmonious color
shadngs. This style OF goods has fancy express
sion.
In all-wool plush designs there are a
number of lovely effects that can lay claim TO
the picturesque.
Gros-grain silks in the rich blue and
olive shades make up beautifully, associated with
brocaded velvet.
Satin merveilleux are very fashionable
and combine cxquisitoly with fancy plush, show
ing medium-sized plaids.
Fine all-wool goods are used in making
UP handsome promenade costumes. Some of the
patterns give both the bayadere and perpendicu-
lar stripes.
A very handsome party fabric of brocade
has sapphire.tntcd ground, upon which arc
scattered at equal distances tiny sprays OF au-
tumnal foliage in colors true to nature.
The newest collars are round, and, as q
novelty, arc made Of ribbon two inches wide,
trimmed with lace of the same depth and side.
plated. The size is such that II reaches nearly TO
the tips of the shoulders.
An Indianapolis paper says that under
new law in that State women are eligible to any
Office under the general special school laws. 1t
suggests that the woman "should not be back
ward in coming forward"
Some of the silk productions are very
handsome. They are marvelously rich varieties in
color shadings, and these tones are usually OF
pronounced characters and hence they are exceed
ingy effective In n ballroom.
Anew York decorator has recently fin
ished room hung in silver.gray damask, with q
blue fringe painted with bright flowers The
mouldings arc silvered and the furniture Is sill
vercd, with blue and pink brocaded coverings.
Brides are getting tired ofappearing all
in white, like n snow -drif, and fair New Yorker,
who will be married this autumn, will have her
satin gown covered with carnations roses and
forget me -nots, outlined in gold and worked in
color.
The condition of the ex-Empress Eu-
genie is said to be very sad. She has mover re-
covered the loss Of her son, and is now living in
almost unbroken solitude, taking no interest In
external events orpersons Pecunarily, hermeans
are ample, her income being not far short of ESQ.,
600 year.
French cashmere has u new name il
has been chrlstened faute, which, being trans
lated means necessity-certainly an appropriate
cognomen, since this material is so generally
patronized and has so many recommendatory
qualities. 1t has in fact, become indispensable
for every day wear.
There is to be another portrait of Mrs.
Langtry. Sir Frederick Leighton, Mr.. Poynter,
Mr. Millais, and an army of smaller painters have
done their best or their worst for her, and now
the Jersey Lily is to be used as raw material for
symphony" or an arrangement" or a "noc-
turne," by Mr.. Whistler
Buttons are more beautiful than ever.
The new silver iligree are of Italian character, or
they are made very open, and show underneath
colored satin grounds Metal buttons and those of
composition have every possible shade of color
Dark pearls divided in half, arc set upon surface
with the effect Of embossing.
There is special fancy Just now for
fresh water pearls. These are found in the pond
and river musses, which school-childrcn through
out the country oflen amuse themselves in catch
ing, forever fancying they are edible clans.
Fresh-water pearls have been used In jewelry but
few years, though perfect specimens ofthe luster
are as valuable as oysterp pearls.
The greater number of basques are
single breasted, but there is effort to restore the
diagonal fronts tapping far the left side at the
neck, then sloping away to the right side. Two
points finish the front ofssOme basques, while
Others have one sharp point and rows of lace or of
striped plush fill in the sides smoothly, or else
there is a folded panier effect given by some soft
fabric.
There are q number of beautiful garni-
lures of late importation, which are exclusive for
winter wear. In the line of beaded trimmings
there is quite handsome variety; you will see
lovely ombre shadings affected entirely by tinted
beads, and there are many exquisite Jet
designs, some of which are remarkably fine and
artistic, Beaded ornaments are prolific in trim
ming expensive costumes.
The inevitable lady who missed being
mistress OF the White House has turned up in time.
The Troy Times says "a lady once moving In tho
best society in New York now resides at Little
Falls and knows the meaning of might have been. ;
When President Arthur was poor young man and
fifteen years younger than this lady he proposed
and was rejected. The lady is well known here,
and does not refrain from mentioning her lost
| opportunity"
In the display of passementerie novel
ties there is much thatis truly antique. You will
see the rich blending hues of Gobelin tapestry,
and there are lovely colors presented in "tam-
boured" stitchngs. Black chenille bands are very
attractive; they trim beautifully and cost from a.
to Sl250 per yard. Chenille is generously EN-.
ployed both in embrolderies and fringes. The
"cord" fringe is about six inches deep 1t is very
handsome, and can be purchased at the very mod
est price of s2i per yard.
Young women have taken q remark
able place in the late examinations Of the London
| University. The class for mathematical honors
had but three members, one Of them girl, who
took the palm girl also came out ahead for
| English honors, aud two OF the four for German
honors were girls, who again distanced their male
rivals; one of the three again, placed at the head
for pharmaceutical chemistry was girl and Miss
Prldeux was first In the honors list for anatomy
coming from the London School of Medicine fol-
Women, and beating both Of her rivals from Guys
| Hospital.
Fashionable hair dressing this season
is characterized by simplicity. All complex fan.
cies in this department Of personal adoTnment
have vanished, and In the place Of intricate and
confused modes there Is instituted In couture ar.
| ranging an easy grace and artistic finish that Is
very becOmmlng to nearly every style Of beauty
II Is stated that the dressing Of the neck has a CON
| trolling influence In the arrangement ofthe hair
and for this reason you will hair dressed both
high and low; the latter style, however Is the one
most patronized. The front hair Is still worn In d
FUZZY manner. There are the nat Montague curl
and the jaunty bangs waving carelessly over the
forehead "Coquettes" are still favored; this styl,
is very artistic and easily arranged.
In every phase of dress there is lavish
exhibit of color, and fashion has attempted L
classify this very expressive feature In wnte
modes. The eastern idea in color mixtures has
tendency 10 confusion; yet the ianciful In this di
reeton is not overtaxed, and never presents dis
cord when refinement and picturesque results are
sought. The various wine shades are richly given
and there are browns from the rich chestnut to the
golden'hued russell Faience blue Is placed by thC
side Of cinnamon reds. The bright mahogany