Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1881-02-18
CmArIEsroS. S. C.. Feb. /. 1881

ms Oh inc negroes grew thicker rs we dp
preached the city, and squalid, meagre little
homes they were, not nearly so thriving as
others have seen not long ago in Maryland.
They always had small patch or bit Of
land attached to their huts, which they faith
fully cultivated. From one of these wood
land cabins issued an old negro man and
two children. His face was very black and
his wool was very white, and his costume
and appearance were so grotesque that he in
simultaneously reminded me of "Old Tiff,"
in 'Dred." Ills care for and kindness to
the children also recalled to me Uncle
Tiff" lie helped them into kind of van,
made of an old tobacco wagon, with great
hoops overhead, over which was stretched
blue and white striped ticking, as an avn
ing, but sorry protection it would prove,
as great rents in the WORKOUT canvas would
give easy access to the wind and rain They
seemed to be moving, for the van was filled
with a quantity of old furniture There was
Il hen-cOop in which there was great flut-
tering of wings, and multitudinous bags of
corn and produce. | became so interested
in their arrangements that for once was sor-
ry to have the train leave the station.
We arrived at Charleston about midday
and took rooms at the Pavilion" one ofthe
best hotels in the city, whose genial proprie-
tor and lovely wife, by their kind at
tentiOn 10 strangers ensure the comforts of a
home as well as excellent attendance as an
inn. Then, for the first time, | experienced
at table a delightful Southern custom. which
| believe, is not met with at anv hotel farther
north than Charleston. | refer TO the custom
of having oranges and bananas as a first
course for breakfast. A large dish of
oranges, golden and juicy oftentimes with
tine dew still on them, is brought you, to-
gether with fruit-knife, finger-bowl and nap
kin. You order your breakfast and while it
is in course of preparation you are enjoying
the luscious fruit, thus combining the beau
tiful and practical, with excellent results.
Before we had been here more than day or
two the weather became very warm-so
warm that our travelling dresses became
very uncomfortable and outside wrappings
were unthought of The transition from the
icy, wind swept Lake and the snow-piled
streets of Burlington to this sum-
mer land, was wonderful - magical,
and We were ecstatic with delight most Of
the time. On one of these beautiful days we
took the little steamer ''Pocassin' for a
long sail in the harbor. We passed old
Castle Pinckney, just in the bay, and then
sailed on to Mt. Pleasant, picturesque little
village, situated on one Of the numerous pro-
jections near the city. Then We sailed on
farther out at sea, and landed at Fort Moul-
trie, or rather at the village of Moultrieville.
the landing place for the Fort; there we took
the horse-cars for the Fort We visited the
old redoubt, the spiking of whose guns and
evacuation of which was really the prelude
of the war, as it proclaimed a just resistance
to the encroaching of the South. 1t is built
of brick, and so strong and compact that it
is only occasionally that green moss and
tufts of grass find any cleft for resting
place. We IZed sOlemnly at its black and
smoke stained ramparts and at its high
arched intrcnchments, and our thoughts re-
verted to the memorable past. Two or
three thriving palmetto trees grow in one of
the angles OF the fort, and are called The
Brothers" by the inhabitants, and near by,
at their base, enclosed in fretted iron railing,
is the grave of "Osceola, the great chief
| was fortunate enough to procure bit of
wood from the surroundings OF the grave,
and also fragment of mOss-covered brick
from the old fort. After pleasant hour at
Moultrie, our boat took its way over the wa
ter 10 Fort Sumter-grim old Sumter Ar
mored in its strong, gray stone walls, but
still more strongly in its impershable asso-
Citations Sumter !. From whose proud battle
ments gazed hopelessly weary,
SlsilN SilllS NLt Euuo VI
the ''Confederates, completed by fire and
devastation, what want and suffering had
failed to achieve, and the grand oldlfag was
struck \ Southern lady, wife of one of
the Confederate officers, said she stood on
the battery and saw it lowered. She said:
1T came down slowly, lingeringly, as il it
fnreSaw the wears of bloodshed impending"
The gray stone wall, with its high watch
tower and the circuit of earth works within
the fort, make ii seem almost impregnable.
When the Northern troops were bOmbardlng
the fort, gentleman who saw II told ME
that sometimes the balls would strike the
water (thcy were thrown for nearly eight
miles away, rebound and fall inside the fort
with terrible effect.
There l.. perhaps, no more sublime spectacle
on the American coast than the approach to
Charleston 10y sea The bay, dotted with
vessels of Every description, steamers, mer-
chant vessels, hrigs and sloops in the fore
ground Fort Moultrie on its island guard
Ing the city on the right Fort Sumter, grim
and frowning. on the left; Morris's Island, with
battery Wagner looming up in the distance,
farther out al sea; nearer the city, and also
in the foreground, castle Pinckney, with its
walls anl elrlhworks, while Cooper river,
on the other side of the city, brings its tribute
to the srr.,, ocean. Dotting the harbor at in
tervals, are the United States ships their
dark rigging and salless masts forming a
delicate traccry against the soft blue sky.
The scene is picturesque in the extreme,
and my description very inadequate. Charles
ton itself, with its multitudinOus spires and
tall stately towers, its houses, many balloon
led. It's long marble arcadcS. glittering white
in the afternoon sunlight, flowers ont OF the
sea 4 second Venice, n city as beautiful rs
if raised hy an enchanter's hand from its
own STA foam and il is built by an enchant-
cr's hand, for what is more potent than II
thorough appreciation of the beautiful in life
and true. aesthetic instinct. And this is one
of its greatest charms. Every house seems
like the realization of some poetic fancy of
its owner
'.1hc houses are not all alike YOU Know,
All the houses alike IN the row.
but every house strongly impresscs You with
itSown individuality, its own motive, and
the effect isbewildsringly charming They are
much more disconnected than in Northern
cities. They are generally enclosed in Il
yard or garden frequently nearly lost in u
grove of magnolia and wild orange trees.
One saw yesterday, surrounded by high
rough stone wall, with huge archc1 gate
before it with great iron balls As large rs can
non balls surrounding its gate-posis. 1t
was very venerable in appearance and inter
cstns. Another | saw surmountcd with II
magnificent box wood hedge, with here and
there arcades cut through the branches
Sometimes the view of the grounds Is
wholly Jhscured until YOU arrive at the en-
trance gate, and then pecping through you
can see all kinds of tropical plants and trees,
palms, dwarf palmettOs, or magnolias, or,
perhaps, fountain, with sportive nymph
bathing her white limbs in its waters an
other "Lorelei," rs fair and beautiful us her
German sister. The modern houses are
generally built of white marble. or brown or
gray stone and sometimes of wood, very
elegant and costly, vet they in their
grandeur in No wise delract from
the older buildings. The city, 10 me,
seems perfect harmony OF form and color
These residences are generally sur
rounded with broad veTalda5, often the one
above the other Sometimes lovely nriels
and bay windows take their place, filled
with MANY -colorcd glass and ''mulIoned' ira
crry. Then. again, ConservatorieS blooming
with tropical verlure refresh the eye.
Balconies perch everywhere, wherever
they can gain foot hold, and window gar
d,ns. the haunt of bright winged birds, reach
out their loyelness to the passer-hv
Another bright day-but they were all
bright red letter days, it seems 10 mc-we