Morning journal and courier., 1881-10-25
Price Four Cents

I AAA'o tue DoGGer oIsn NOW, poi Is sticky paste and when the fingers are dipped into \ 1t, all that touches them adheres. and none that has come in contact with them remains | In the dish. After our repast and smoke we again stretched ourselves on our mattress es, and as the noises subsided fell asleep | When we awoke we were in Hilo bay. Ascend | ing to the hurricane deck leaving scene anything but picturesque, in which a con- ! fused mass of mattresses, blankets pillows, ! tn basins, calabashes, and drowsy forms in | all sorts of attitudes and positions, awake. awakening and asleep, formed part-a really 1 fascinating sight presented itself It was like | @ beautiful drawn or animated picture. How { can describe in prose what in itself was poem!
 1t was early morning and deliciously clear and cool, the sun had just risen and bathed ! everything in rosy light. Was this the se- cret, the magic wand which transformed this
 little spot into an enchanting picture and inI ' toxlcated the senses, or was 1t only part of ! the beautiful whole? We were anchored in ! lovely bay, which reminded me of the Bay ! ot Naples It was almost semi-circular in shape and trInged with shining beach Nearly
 In the middle of the latter and opposite to us ! was Hllo A number of tall cocoa-palms ! lowered above the row of low white build ! lngs along the shore, and gLmpses of the I rest of the village back of them could be
 caught here and there through the thick foli- ! age while the spires and the towers of four |
 cal nature. A small river with high, rocky.
 fern -fringed banks ran through the village
 and emptied into the bay In the back ! ground were Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Nothing In the appearance of the latter would 1 suggest that It IS the ogre of the place,
 times attempted to drown it and ! which lately, like an octopus. stretched Y forth its long, black snaky arms some fifty
 or sixty miles, seeking to encircle and destroy lilo. It hardly seemed possible that this peaceful, dome-like hill could be a dreaded volcano and a mountain nearly fourteen thou sand feet in height. Mauna Kea formed quite contrast 1t had more clearly defined and jagged outlines. On the foot hills and slopes around Hilo, nestling in and peeping out from groves of banana, pineapple and cocoanut trees, were native grass houses, while groups of natives were gathered on the shore or galloping over the hard sand. A double rainbow formed a beautiful frame for the whole. string of trim-looking boats were plying between the Likelihe and the shore, landing passengers. These re- minded me that there was something to be seen and done on shore and for which I had come. As l withdrew my gaze became con- sclous of 'fbeauty born of murmurtng
 sound, " and turning round I found quar-
 tette of young Kanakas singing softly, &C.,
 companied by two guitars.
 One of the boats quickly brought us to the
 wharf. As we neared it the native rowers let
 go their oars which foated of, and some of
 them jumped overheard and in water up to their waists pulled and pushed our boat among lot of others, until we reached some steps up which we scrambled. At the head of them was an official who was busilv engaged in examining and collecting the per
 mlts to land. passed him quietly, as did not desire to take up his valuable time in ex- plaining that no doctor lived within ten miles
 of where had been living, that had been vaccinated and had not come from an infect ed district, but on the contrary, from a very healthy one, and that, for these .and other reasons, was not possessed of one of the aforementioned documents. Some closed gates kept off ''the vulgar herd" and through
 small opening in these the passengers slow ly found an exit, and, with some difficulty, made their way through a crowd of natives who were very demonstrative in greeting
 friends and relatives just landed with a profuslon of kisses and "alohas" One curse of travelling in our own country was notice able from it's absence. Here, at least, no
 noisy crowd of importunate hackmen blocked the way, or sought to fasten themselves, like hungry leeches, on the bewildered traveller. s. and started off at once on search for rooms. We learned that there miser- able apology for hotel, but that no stranger ever slept there, though some stayed the night. We found numbers on like errand and all reported the place full to oyerhowing.
 After an unsuccessful search, tired and hun gry entered a restaurant CD for break fast. We got something to eat, but conclud-
 ed we had stumbled upon the worst Chinese cook-shop in the place. Everyone asked about it afterwards told us 1t was by far the
 best or not so bad as the rest. We began to think that this was one of the
 numerous cases where view is debtor to dis tance. s. found friend who offered to
 share his bed with him and secured sofa for the night.
 H.
 cent flow, for we had heard, soon after land ing. that it was ''the day after the fair :" the flow was dead; blackened corpse, though still warm, was all we could expect to see. We were glad for the town, but sorry for
 ourselves. Following a trail, "mauka" Gas !. everyone here calls direction away from the sea and towards the mountains the op- posite is makai), we stumbled through brush, mud and puddles and at last reached DOT ton of the flow which had threatened to destroy the mill. We followed this branch until we reached the main body. As we walked over the surface we found that great deal of heat still remained in the lava. In some places it was too hot to stand upon
 and the drops of preparation falling on the
 surface hissed and sizzled like water on hot
 stove; yet we saw some natives running
 over this hot crust. Even when cold it is about as pleasant to walk on broken glass as on this PGhoeboe. Though we were disap-
 pointed because did not get here until the
 flow was ''mdke'' [dead), still in it's present
 state it was interesting. Its course could be
 traced snearly to it's source in Mauna Loa
 nearly forty miles away. This vast body of
 lava, while liquid, flowed down the noun
 tain's side, like river, into broad valleybut,
 unlike water, instead of forming lake there,
 it had continued it's course, crawling over
 hills, ignoring natural channels to lower lev
 els This it had been able to do as the lava,
 cooling quicker at the edges, where 1t was
 thinner, formed sort of viaduct. AS 1t ad-
 vanced slowly 8 crust would form and check
 its advance until the pressure from behind
 caused the molten lava to gush out.h here and
 there; these again would cool, and other
 spurts would mount them. Thus it
 crawled along. assuming innumerable shapes
 and forms-gnarled roots, coils of twisted
 rope, snakes, globes both solid and hollow,
 rippled waves, short flights of stairs, eddies,
 hollow tubes, wrinkles and folds being
 among the number. Steam and heat still as-
 cended from seams and crevasses which ex-
 tended in all directions The stream varies
 from a few hundred feet in width to mile
 or more, and in many places it
 must be nearly hundred feet thick
 or deep. In one place small jet of lava
 crossed a stream. Just above we got drink
 of cool water. A few feet lower down the
 stream emerged almost boiling hot. I was
 told that dog, hot and tired trusting to his
 knowledge and experience of streams in gen.
 eral jumped into this one to cool himself
 and drlnk; ne o1Q not Qo e1tner, ana ne d1Q
 not live long enough to find any use for the
 knowledge he had gained.
 As the pedometre indicated we had done
 over ten miles of walking already that morn
 ing we returned to Hilo. In the afternoon
 we walked with several others to some small
 falls about-a mile and a half from town called;
 believe, Rainbow Falls From below they
 were very pretty. The high banks on each
 side and the sort of cavern back of the falls
 were covered with flowers and ferns. The
 stream divides in two just before going over
 leaving little platform of rock in the mid
 de. From this spot several little native
 boys jumped into the deep pool below, dis
 tance of fifteen or twenty feet, climbing up
 again through cave or tunnel at the side
 They were very graceful in their movements, and seemed more at home in the water than out of it. Friday we spent in Hilo, having determined to remain over until the next trip of the steamer and to visit the volcano. We heard that the lotus in the crater of Kill auea had become more active than usual since the flow had ceased. I also heard an account of how Ruth or Luka, who is the Princess Keelikolam, stopped, as the natives l11sa 1o,1o a1ru 1oua Eo..