Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-11-30

The Newest styles for YOung Men LIN
and Gut Of society.


SUITS FOR THE sUTroR-FANcY VESTS AND CLOSE
FITTING GARMENTS RULE THE HOUR.
From the New York Herald.
At the present time q man Of fashion must
have frock suit, q dress suit, q cutaway suit, q
sack suit, light overcoat, q heavy overcoat and
storm coat. His suits must be changed four
or i've times year. The increase in the guam
tity Of elegantly designed and extensively made
garments in this country within the past few
years has been nearly ninety per cent? IGentle-
men who can afford it always wear the most ex-
pensive materials trimmed in the most expensive
manner Fashions 7are undergoing quite a
change; no padding, or haircloth is used. coats
being made soft to fit the form. This will not
please those with narrow, ill-shaped shoulders.
and. at first, they may rebel, but will eventually
yield to the goddess.
Gentlemen are emerging from the plain dark
clothes worn so long to bright colorings now
so fashionable in ladies' dress. Three different
classes of goods are often seen in one suit. and
the scarf or necktie is of the most flaming hue
Moorish and Oriental colorings and designs are
shown in the various styles of neckwear, and
the fashionable vest is in bright and pretty
tints The prevailing style of vest is single
breasted, without collar, closing high and cut
short and straight across the bottom. Double
breasted vests are not worn. Garments of all
kinds have never been worn as high at the neck
as now. There is tendency to put fiat braid
on almost all classes of goods except fancy suit
lngs Braids OF various widths are used, the
SIX and eight line being most in favor. The
tight trousers are cut by all the fine trades in
New York, and such thing as loose panta-
looms is not known; but this is not the case in
London. as the leading tailor there cuts the
trousers as loose as were being worn here years
ago.
NEW STYLISH SUIT.
Fancy mixturs are in demand for frOck suits,
sack suits and Overcoats. Light grey mixtures
with smooth surface are used for dressy over
coats, and green also is in favor. The general
tendency is for fine goods yet Scotch suitnrs
are more popular than tfHy have been for sew
eral seasons past. Pin checks are still in fashion,
and some axe them in cutaway coats to be
worn with trousers and vests of one color For
OvercOats there are the Efysans, Shetlands fur
beavers and Montaignacs and many kinds of
plain goods. An exceedingly stylish suit has
just been finished for a gentleman of small
stature, Of the following description:-The
trousers and vests are of black cloth. The three
buttoned cutaway is in blue and black check
With this will be worn a black satin scarf to
change with one of blue SATIN The overcoat
worn with the suit will be of light livery
color, lined with silk of the same hue. and
velvet collar to match. The Overcoat is cut in
single breasted sack. The effect is extremely
stylish and appropriately worn by any dressy
gentleman under forty.
The entire suit, made Of one kind of cloth. is
only admissible for business purposes or for
travelling The double breasted sack suit is cut
with light double breast and narrow lapel
with five buttons to close 1t is shapely at the
back and the sleeves are cut small and crooked.
GAN sleeves, including overcoat sleevs, are cut
thus.) The cuffs are stitched on about two
inches deep and finished with one button For
man five feet eight inches the fashionable
These sack suits are usually made of fancy
suitings. Young men who find the sack suit
particularly becoming can still wear it made in
three different kinds of goOds-the coat of fur
beaver, Eiysians, or any kind of fashionable
goods, the vest Of fancy cashmere, and the
trousers Of something in fancy striped material
and cut tight. The double breasted pea Jacket
with patch pockets, will be worn made in heavy
overcoatng, blue fur beaver being favorite.
These are lined throughout with silk and trimmed
young men, andwhen worn with a Derby hat are
quite effective
FASHIONABLE OvERCOATs.
handsome style is the ''surtOut' coat r.
is a double-breasted frock. the sleeves quite
tight and lapes faced with quilted silk, and
velvet collar One of the most select styles is
the single breasted sack OF Shetland beaver. emf
rather short. 1t is handsome. made of rough
combination goods. blue face with golden tinge
areally beautiful color. A coat made of this
material for very dressy gentleman is lined
with heavy silk serge and finished with velvet
1ashlOnable young man must not feel it, for to
produce the elegant effect the coat fronts should
be turned back to show the rich silk facings and
the stylishly cut undercoat.
A coat for a top garment is the loose oversack
which is patron!Zed by young s'swells" and men
who ride and drive 1t is also considered a
high style for the street, and will in many cases
take the place of the ulster. The newest thing
in the way OF this latter coat is the frOck ulster
with short waist: All fancy shapes in listers
are pdsSe and but little used.
three button cutaWay. rather short wasted
with long skirts, the back having the appear
ance of dress suit, is very fashionable The
shoulders are made close to the body and
shortened, the sleeves tight. These coats are
bound flat with silk braid about six lines wide
This makes very good evening coat. although
the double breasted frock coat is the coat for
receptions or dinner parties. The three button
cutaWay can be made Of any class of goods that
may please the fancy-Of diagonal cloths or gay
colorings. 1t is used for street wear with fancy
vest, and the fancy vest is also worn with the
double-breasted frockcoats. Getaway coats
have been worn for some time past, but the
shape at present is quite another style.
Trousers measure II knee and II around the
bottom but some of the toniest young men will
have them as small as IS inches. These are
made principally in striped goods. Fancy vests
are again introduced, and some noted are ex-
tremely pretty. They are sure to become popu-
lar with gentlemen who pay attention to dress
blue cashmere baraud with few red threads.
and closed with large cornean buttons With
blue diagonal three huttoned cutaway and
dark striped trousers it looked very NICE
EVENING SUITS AND JEwELRY,
The full dress suit has undergone material
changes. The cloth now fashionable is small,
very fine wall diagonal, and very fashionable
coat must be lined with white watered silk. The
trousers have black braid stitched on the side.
no pockets, and are lined throughout with black
silk. The vest has but three buttons There
are two kinds Of dress for wedding purposes
full dress suit and frock suit If the bride is
in full dress and the wedding in the eve
ming the groom should wear black dress
coat, black vest and trousers, white tie
and gloves, patent leather high CATERS, with
plain kid tops. If the bride appears in dark
dress the gloves should be of delicate shade.
not white, and the groom should wear a full
dress suit, with black tie, and gloves of light
color. For morning wedding the bride would
be dressed in dark colOrs, in which case the gen.
tleman should appear in dark frock suit with
plain dark tie or scarf, with gloves of light
color and calf skin CATERS, with kid tops Cen
tlemen have worn hats with very narrow brims
for some time past; but this fall the introduce
ton of wide trimmed hats for the ladies has
made a change in mems hats. The rims are