Morning journal and courier., 1881-06-30
ing, which this kind of dress must naturally

 produce.
 Soft Silk fabrics, called stalgeriennes, " with bright colored str pes, are much prettier than the shaded goods Stamped satins in varied designs are to be extensively combined with light suits and woolen goods. French ssmoire antique'' is also used This will be worn during the summer, combined with ecru en- broideries forming searfs, waists and waist trimmings. Small velvet mantillas and scas- aquins'' are also seen over colored skirts, and will continue in wear until the warmest weather. These garments will be found most serviceable for evening use at the seaside Velvet is in reality no warmer than broche silk or moire antique. Many short, plain dresses are of t'voile de nonne," with satin stripes. This material is always used bias, to obviate the stiff appearance of the stripes. The bias founces are slightly gathered, and not p1aited The unique and waist are also of bias goods The stripes may be length wise or crosswise. The favorite shades are mouse color, dove color, dark beige and buff color The smallest lace parure serves to enliven the toilet. There may be worn with these suits scarfs or mantillas to match. There are also seen over these dresses habit shaped paletots of white or brown cloth
 Another kind of toilet is of India cache mire in such colors as blue, gray, or plum color. The front of the skirt is of shaded satin and the narrow hounces are in three different tones, shading from dark gray to steel blue. The cachemire waist forms 8 redingote, and has broad moire antique sash, starting from the sides and tying in the back under a cocade of the same ribbon. The ends of the redingote are raised under similar cocade. The front of the waist opens in heart shape over q shaded satin gathered fichu. This is a very simple style. Some fancy garments are of black Hindu cache mire embroidered with brownish steel beads. Another garment may be of seal colored satin, embroidered with old silver-colored silk and beads and trimmed with gold Span ish lace and feather bands. There are also enlbroideries on cachemire in vermicelh de- signs of silver gray cording. This produces the exact effect of lace, and is most suitable for half burning trimmings Summer con- fections combine satin or lampas with Spanish lace. The lampas forms the back, and the large visite sleeves are of lace. On the gar ment is 8 quantity of jet-work, making tas- pieces.
 An elegant evening dress, with novel dra- peries, worn by 8 well-known Parisian &C., tress, may be described thus The front of the skirt is of white silk covered with white lace embroidered with pearl beads. The pa nier is of the same lace. The blue satin waist is cut square in the neck and has an embroidered lace fichu. The fchu is drawn in around the neck by means of puffing, with blue satin ribbon drawn through and forming necklace. This is tied near the left shoulder, where the fchu closes. All the character of the toilet consists in the way the train is arranged A large breadth of blue satin is taken, plaited down the mid dle and fastened on the lower part of the waist. It. is thus drawn over the hips and sewed against the dress to the lower part of the back, where the two ends of the breadth of goods are joined on one side. Each is fastened down against the apron on the other -s1 IL -1zsL =. on the lower part of the waist and then open ing to form train are quite novelty. Many ladies have adopted tight fitting sleeves buttoning on the outside, with the long, loose gloves taken over the sleeve. These are suitable for walking purposes as well as for evening wear.
 Corsets have become an indispensable &C., cessory with the present fashions of tight fitting costumes and waists lacing down the back front. In spite of much having been said against their use, very few of the fair sex are without some kind of corset. The use of these dates back to former times, when Roman ladies, during the early part of the republic, wore kind of waist or belt of a stiff material, to support the body and chest. A well-made corset, setting perfectly to the figure and not worn too tight, is one of the most necessary articles of dress. It IS best to be measured for these, and to try them on before they are completed From the time an 1QranG wears OrcSS6S KlQu or broad belt is used, with shoulder pieces. To this the child's undergarments are buttoned. Little girls wear these until they are about years of age From this time the belt has rather more shape, and the back part is sup ported on both sides by whale bone of very soft steel spring From the age of 10 or 12 years another bone is added in the back. Corsets for young ladies have busks narrow whalebones and very soft steel springs. Ladies' corsets of satin or other material have iointed busks, and are drawn in over the hips, making the front of the cor sets very long. Corsets for mourning use are of surah. They have no bones in the back, are very short, have shoulder pieces and fasten all the way down by means of pieces of elastic. There are often worn over these cuirass corsets broad belts buttoning on the sides and cut round to take the hips we'll in to the figure. The petticoats are fas- tened to these belts, which must be at least II inches deep.
 There are many small articles for travelling purposes which can be made by ladies them selves, who can thus save much expense. Among these is case for umbrellas sunShades and canes This may be of gray linen, trimmed with small colored embroidery and stitched down lengthwise in three compartments. The narrowest of these is reserved for the cane The cane closes by means of straps with buckles. On the end is an embroidered piece of the goods, serving for a handle. A case to wrap travelling shawls in is of gray linen. It is over a yard long and about 30 inches deep. On the sides are hems about five inches deep, shirred underneath, and drawn together by ribbon. This shirring closes the case on the ends. On either side of the cases are bands of embroidery, and it closes by means of button holes. The han dies are of three thicknesses of goods en- broidered on the sides and fastened on the outside of the case. A writing case for travelling use is of light shade of leather, divided off to form the different compart- nents for paper, envelope, visiting cards, pens pencils and blotter. The latter is em- broidered on the outside, or ornamented with paintings carefully pasted against the leath- CT. On the outside of the case the mono gram is embroidered.