Sacramento daily record-union., 1881-09-24

fower.like eyes from plain black poke
bonnet, and she carried a pure white para.
sol edged with wide white lace that fell
about her head and shoulders like the
drapings of curtain. She was brunette,
of course, or she could not have come out
best in the struggle of folds of black against
dead W tie. Some of our brunettes always
go abe looking like young widows be-
cause black and white is SO becoming to
them. / or an every day or morning hat
everybody has black straw and a red
flower, or white straw and muslin. Flowers,
of course, have nearly had their day
for the present, but heavy dull single
flower sprays will be in use through the
winter. 1t is quite in fashion to wear the
sunfower at the belt; they come on pur-
pose in dull yellow, much smaller than the
true size. The colors for the season are
pleasing, the glaring old Colds dying away
into bronze, the yermillion of Pompeiian
red giving place to a glowing red which
has suggestion of black in it, and China
blue sand the greens are added-myrtle
green, moss green, forest green, etc.
DRESSES
Are doing away with overskirts as much as
possible, having a fold of drapery across
the front and tucks below this, instead.
Gaugipg or shirring meets the eye every
where and narrow double box pleats edge
the skirts. A few wear one or two
hoops to keep the skirt from the feet, but
the hoop is very small aud scarcely notice
able. A dress made for walking suit ex-
hibited by a dressmaker had pleats
laid over the shoulders and the
extra fullness gathered in at the
waist, a plastron of gauging being put
on in front and coming in point below the
waist line a finger-length. 1t was met
here by a narrow sash of black ribbon, the
dress being black, which, carried to the
right, disappeared in seam, and to the
left formed bow near the back. The
overskirt was extremely short and finished
with Spanish lace. Iridescent ornaments
are used a great deal in dressmaking.
Sometimes they are balls, sometimes tas.
sells, or rings, or crescents, or the old.
fashioned frogs. Plain round waists are
worn more than anything, basques next,
and polonaises least of all. For evening
the style is princesse, as it has been these
several years. Stripes are fashionable, and
plush bands used for dress trimming; jet
beads also. Any quantity of beautiful
things are about the neck-fichus, collar
cites, scarfs, jabots, ruches-but thereis a
tendency toward the linen collar and
turnback cuff. 1t has been and still
is in style to wear yard oi
plain wash net in folds round the neck, the
ends hidden in the bosom or sometimes
carried as low as the belt. 1t is held to-
gether with fancy lace pins or pins witt
round heads of pearl, silver, or gilt. Mus
lin scarfs are covered with polka dots ol
rings of large size. A young friend from
the East sends me her picture taken in {
KATE GREENwAY
Costume, the idea of this fashion findin!
itself in the quaint dressing of the child
rem of Miss Greenway's eharmingly illus
trated little book, "Under the Window.
If you wish to be Bostonesque you must
dress your children so. The photograph
wears Mother Shipton" bonnet, that
is a large poke pushed little off the
face, wide strings drawing it down at the
sides and bowling under the chin. 1t has a
Kate Greenway dress made with a square
yoke, the material gathered to it so as t.
form stand up rufie, and fulled in at th'
waist by sash. The sleeves are gathered il
top and bottom, and forms rufile closini
tightly at the wrists. A ruffie finishes of
the dress at the ankles. The young lady
writes me that black-and.tan coloreG
gloves displace all others for street wear
and are very wrinkly about the wrists. Ii
conclusion let me say we have not yet
reached the esthetic, though we hav'
yearnings toward 1t. Many of our young
girls affect it by wearing dresses cut
straight up and down and very short in the
waist, but the height is not yet reached by
them. KATE HEATH.