The weekly herald. [volume] (Cleveland, Tenn.) 1876-1888, 1881-02-04
FOR THE FAIR sEX.
Winter Fashions.

the foundation as well as the trimming
OF dresses. Velvets and plush brocades
are the leading materials. When the
Jacket and skirt draperies are made Of
this, large and medium-sized figures are
used, but when the costume is OF plain
goods, and the wide collar, cuffs AID
pockets are of the brocaded material,
the smaller and detached patterns are
most appropriate. A tight-ftting jacket
lined with quilted silk of brocaded plush,
velvet or satin, is worn with a skirt Of
the plain material, the color being slate
Of the ground in the brocaded goods.
Deep collars, a hood at the back and
corded edges finish the jacket. The
skirt is made plain to the back breadth
for stout ladies, but for slender figures
is frequently shirred for several inches
from the belt, even on the front breadths.
Handsome materials are often made up
with no trimming upon the skirts, and
when the bonnet and muff are of the
same materials and daintily trimmed,
and when well-ftting gloves and boots
are worn, the entire costume is attrac-
tive through sheer simplicity. The
variations of this style stop only when
the whole costume is covered with
trimmings Of various colored fabrics,
passementeries and fringes.
In dress goods for ordinary street wear
the newest are the Cheviot suitines, in
somber mixtures, from one TO two yards
wide. They are made up without other
trimmings than side plaitings OF tie
same. Dark colored monte cloths, with
tinsel bands for trimmings, are imported
in all the mode colors. Both Scotch and
French plaids in the newest combina-.
tons and colors arc used with skirts of
cashmere or other plain material match
ing one OF the colors in the plaid. For
mouchoir costumes the handkerchiefs
may be obtained in all the prevailing
dark colors.' They are in squares of a
yaad, and the double width Of one and
a half yards, the latter forming a good
sized shawl which may be arranged
ta%ncifully to form an extra wrap. A
novelty in suitings is a striped material,
with inch-wide stripes of chocolate, ger.
darme blue, cardinal and mixed colors.
The entire suit is made of this. In
mourning goods, the standard Henrietta
cloths, cashmeIes and similar materials
are used as extensively as formerly.
Skirts of walking dresses are made with
plain fiat Grape bands or folds on the
edges Of the skirts. The entire front
breadth is sometimes covered with Grape
for deepest mourning. The rich Radz-
mere silks, used in combination with
Grape, are also used for deep mourning.
Knife and box plaitings are placed on the
edge in many instances, and combined
with Grape folds for half mourning. The
styles of making up do not differ from
those of ordinary costumes, except that
in place Of the Oriental mixtures and bro
cades used for trimming colored suits,
bands and folds of Grape are substituted.
Almost any style of cloak may be
worn which suits the figure of the
wearer: Short jackets, either tight
fning or half-tight, are made of the
dark shades of plush and worn with all
kinds of street suits, either black or
colcred, the good taste Of the wearer
preventing a discordant combination of
colors. Gendarme blue, dark green,
plum and wood browns are the princi-
pal colors used. Half long sacks, with
capes nearly the same length, are made
of Surah silk and trimmed extensively
with jet passementeries. The dolman,
in all varieties of form, is the leading
pattern for the cloaks OF large size.
They are very long, reaching to nearly
the bottom OF the dress, and the sleeves
sometimes form acape. They are made
Of Surah and armure silk, velvet, bro
cade or brocaded satin and lined with
squirrel fur, quilted satin or silk, colored
or black, and bright colored plush.
They are trimmed with bands from
three to five inches wide of silver, black
and blue fox, plucked and unplucked
beaver, c%hinchilla, leopard and tiger
skins. The Russian fat deep collar,
with bands surrounding the edge from
the neck down the closed, or both sides
of the open front, and around the bot
tom and wide sleeves, is the most suit
able manner Of trimming them. Seal
skin cloaks in sack shape are shorter
than last season, but the dolmans are
nearly as long as the dress. The I'M
trimmed sacks are preferred, even with
out the cuff. The dolmans are trimmed
with five.inch bands of black fox and
beaver. The Russian sleeves OF the
paletot are also trimmed with wide
bands. Muffs of fur match the fur
trimming Of the cloaks with which they
are worn, and are without trimming.
Circulars lined with squirrel are as
popular as ever. Seals caps are made in
coaching. Paris, turban and helmet
shapes, and are trimmed with a bird
laid fatty near the top of the left side.
Collars are used with muffs and cuffs to
match.
In millinery there has been shown a
decided preference for the small bonnet,
the larger styles-those with the ire
mendous brims, imported early in the
season-meeting with little favor. The
shape most in vogue at present is the
small, close-itting capote, worn very
far back on the head, in shape similar to
the cap worn by the peasantry of Ger
many and Holland. These little bon
nets-which are scarcely more than a
headdress--are marvels of richness and
beauty. The most brilliant Oriental
mixtures are used for their composition,