Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1881-09-22

NATERIALs-NTLLINERY-DEsIGNs.

Of course YOU have been thinking of what
We are to wear this fall and winter, and |
am happy to give you such early information
that you will know quite as soon as the av-
erage New Yorker.
This is in consequence of my having been
allowed to look over Lord and Taylor's sam
pie books.
Among satins the prevalence of plush
chiefly in stripes or squares, but sometimes
too in large floral figures is very noticeable.
MORE or watered ,atins, too. are extremely
fashionable. In truth YOU can hardly mis-
place a MORE design for they come in stripes
extending all over the surface in larger or
smaller ripplings. or united with plush or
brocaded stripes. Not only are these rich
fabrics combined with PLAIN satin or velvet
for dressy toiIette,, but they serve As touches
on fine wooden costumes. while for such
purpose variety is given BY plush combined
with metal threads that lie embedded at
narrow Intervals
New pIaded or striped woolens are also
brought out in great VARIETY to be combined
with PLAIN wools IN all the fashionable col
ors. bronze, garnet. vine, dark blue or
brown. These plaided OF striped woods are
prominent among fall mportatlons, and are
novel, not oul, by reason of the new colors
harmonlztng with the handsome PLAIN wools,
but by new arrangements Of bars and col
umnS.
Cherlot, too. is very fashionable. 1t has
a loose twill, and IN small indstinct checks
or stripes will be made IN simply shaped
costumes without combination But more
DIR, ssy cheyiot is wrought with plush or
MORE satin stripes, while to complete the
outfit, a cluuded chevlot, in colors 10 match,
is provided. These costumes will be very
stylish, vet not more 50 than cheylots that
have broad stripes taking up part of the
breadth. These latter are intended for the
plisse (paitedl effects that are amongst new
est ideas.
The stripes are laid in plaits, that one
color appears on the outside while the other
SHOW, from beneath in gllmpses only. The
transitions in color are ,ubdurd 50 that they
can be worn by person. Of quiet taste.
Brighter Soolen- are woven IL alterations
OF one plain, broad stripe and one Of floral
design and these are disposed in ptisse
style, either the floral stripe appearing on
the outside with the plain color peeplng
from below, or rtce rersd. OF course there
is PLAN material 10 match.
THE NEw BONNET.
Felt IS conspicuous IN millinery and is IN
black, white and all ne~ colors. As to
shapes. one may choose among the poke
family, 4patut IN outline with high pointed
CROW u nr selection can be made among the
smaller ruttage and capote bonnets. In
poke, tGrre is considerable diversity since
some crowns are more conspIcuously pointed
than others and there are notable differences
in size Bu. most OF them are quite lars ;.
Hat. are often very large; having broad,
square rrovns, with wide brlms turned up
on the icft side Yet again we see Derbys
and trrhans. Plush or velvet are the mate
rials used and are laid plainly on the pokes
and usually on the small bonnets we'll.
For trimming. We have plush, satin, velvet
rti hX nF an -
feathers. feathers feathers. Ostrich plumes
of such length that they must be artlfcially
prolonged. sweep around the huge hats but
on bonnets, a cluster Of tips is preferred.
Culurs ID ostrich feathers are frequently a
very tumble e-t9o or three mixed in hap
hazard way but sometimes they are of one
color or shaded from dark to light. Frath-
ers are IN bands. breast. With heads or en-
tire bird, from large dove or paroquet
down To hummlng bird are seen but are
not a. fashionable as bands. Cocks plum
age Is also on new hats but Is dyed IN bronze,
garnet. olive and other new shades.
SEw DESIGNS.
For the checked cheyiots that shoull be
plain in outline with tailor finish" there is
nothing more suitable than the Sutherland
costume having short skirt trimmed with
a deep. gathered fiounce oserskirt with full
back drApery. apron front and tucked basque
confined BY belt Stout people would do
better 10 select plain chevIot or some one
Of the new woods either finished with stripes
or touches of other material and for them.
plain fitting corsage is the rather judicious
choice. Here We find the Baronne polonaise
arranged over a short walking skirt trimmed
with deep plaitings. The fronts are cut in
one piece falling over a shawl shaped point
at the left and draped high at the sides.
The Richmond" is a new tight fitting
jacket cut away below the waist, turned
back in revers above and fastened BY single
large button at the waist The Rtelka is a
dressy mantelet in circle shape with shirring
at the neck and in plsstron behind.
LUCY CARTER.
Ill.