, 1881-06-19

an is determined by the length Of her dress,
and the balayense Of the sort described above
made tall WOMAN ioUk short, and absolutely
tlwarfed Il short one. Now only aailty
elging Of white: nr cream lace Is visible oe-
low the skirt, giving it fresh anu any "p~
pcarance.
4 stylish French bonnet Is of shirred satin
lneryeilleux, shading from crown Ut dgep
purple to II rim ri pattst lilac. \ cascadeu
wreath 6f gold lace is laid arottna me crown,
into which are set tiny clusters OF he!lotlope
material Of the hat. Around the edge Of the
brni is placed band formed Of gold anu
mauve-tinted beads, and OH the right side OF
the bonnet are pose,t a handsome large Go!a
buckle and a full! ostrich plume, OF bishop,s
purple shading to pale lavender.
4 beautiful dress Just completed for
young debutante il made of peach-blossom
satin, with the short skirt trimmed down
each side with plated rut.!es OF white sllrali,
yelled with white Renaissance lace OF the
finest quality; The hig!, corsase has fichH
Of lace folded over the bosom, anti adorned
with knot of crushed roses placed upon the
left shoulder. 4 wreath Of roses veiled with
the lace is placed around tile foot Of the dress
just over the deep ruftie Of lace, which sur
rounds the bottom Of the skirt.
There is infnit variety in the draping and
atlorntng vi dreSs-Skirts at present, ho,llccs,
plisses, tunics, revers auilles, bonlllones,
panels, and long sasheS hanging, straight or
with gathered ends finished by beaded oriaa-
nlents OF some kind. or crossed AMI loosely
draperies or skirts .lraped in any way are
very often made upon fausses jupes OF i'll
ferior material. For out-ot.door wear,
whether for the morning or AFTERNOON. the
toilets are made short in front. with denll or
adjustable trains, but for ceremonious wear
the skirts are long and flowing, being sup
ported by the train balayense of surall.
The rage for white costumes increases rs
the summer advances. most OF these being
white lace, pearl, and white jet trimmings,
white flowers and white satin ribbon, being
the most fashionable ad0rnments. The pres
ent elegant materials in surall, 6rocade, sat1n
de Lyon, nuns yelling, grenadlnc, aug ~
these toilets, and they are equally becom'ng
to blondes md brunets- White sIrah COW
cred with white tu!le, embroidered with
pearl and crystal beads, and having crirass
bodice with beaded tulle sleeves. makes
very beautiful toilet. Sume of these dresses
are also made in the princesse style, laced up
the back. with tulle scarf drapery just be-
low the waist, or falling FROM the back OF the
skirt half across the front ~ a point, AMI
passelnenteries.
Among the nuulberless summer fabrics are
pale tinted silk and linen mixtures, Louislne
silks, brocaded gauZes showing bright gllnts
of silver and gold, French foular4s always
popular in Paris, French orglldies In tho
new and fashionable shades of cream, white,
almond. china blue, Quaker gray. and corn
color, and delicate-hred French lawns, quite
in the jardiniere style, to be made up 4 IL
shepfertless, with jaunty vatican ribbons
Of tioriated batistes there are most beauti-
full variety, with patterns Uf flowers III natal-
raj size such as lilies, passion flowers, car
nations, roses and buds. In seInl-dlapflall-
ons materials nothing ranks s higher ,aI tl'ah
ingly popular fabric for dresses Of every de-
scrption. from the exquisit Grecia1l house.
robes 10 the elaborate evening dress. loaded
with rich white lace and made up over white
Surah.
The "obelisk :" is the very latest agony'
in round hats. This new shape P" done " Ill
marble or grant would serve Americans very
well in the place of all obelisk. upon which
to inscribe 4 long poem setting forth the yam
ity of all earthly things. especially OF moaern
hats. provided we hal not already lilf-
ported" y genuine article wllict! has been !,
set up with appropriate ceremonies. As it
is, the s.obelisk' hat is a creation fearful
! and wonderful to look upon: ltS like was
never before seen in these United States. a
head-eoyering somewhat similar to it may be
found in old picture books, showing Mother
Goose flying through the air upon upon {:
broonlstick-" Como to sweep the cobwebs
out Of the sky" as the rhyme runs. But
tall peaked sugar-loaf hat should aslorn the
heads of our society bellies seems incredi-
| BILE. Its length from the tip Of the peaked
crown to the heat-ba1ld measures
about fourteen inches, and the broad brim
surrounding it is five inches wide \ lady
wearing one alighted from her carriage III
front OF a leading business house III this city
lately and became an object Of special attrac-
tior. She was dressed in costume OF deep
ruby-colored satin de Lyon, trimmed with
ruby-brocaded velvet. Upon her head was
one Of these m0nstrosities of fashion, the
high pointed crown was surrounded BY Il
full wreath of ruby-colored ostrich feathers,
shading to Il pale pink. The t1aring brim was
faced with dark ruby velvet. The hat itself
was rnby-colored straw, matching one Of
the shades On the feathers The dress worn
by the lady was in elegant style, but the hat!
Shades of Macbeth and the witches thereof!
1t drew s,1ch..a crowd that it was with dilli-
Guilty that the lady entered the store, and
with greater difficulty that she made her pur-
chases.