The Portland daily press., 1881-04-08
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

show such variety Of styles In bonnets that 1t
is difficult to say what are the leading FASH
ions. This variety, however, gives opportuni-
ty for the exercise of individual tastes, and en-
ables the milliner to find something fit and be-
coming for each customer. Rolled coronets
are introduced in the latest importations in
both large and small shapes, but there are also
close cottage fronts, Marie Stuart points, and
above all things else, the poke shapes are pro-
duced in various sizes, some OF them barely
missing the top Of the head, while others OK
tend several inches above it. The last remark
is true especially of the bonnet of hundred
years ago, which is now revived, and provided
with full cluster of flowers inside the brim,
and also band half way back, inside, to cross
the head. This band is part of the bonnet
proper, being woven inside Of it, instead of .
part of its trimming. For dress bonnets me-
dunn size is chosen, and the materials are usu-
ally Tuscan braids or the lace straws trimmed
with many soft, crushed-looking large flowers
without foliage, some feathers, some Surah sat-
in, and great deal of white or steel lace,
with steel or gilt ornaments. Rivalling these
are bonnets Of steel or silver laces, and the
black lace bonnets made Of Spanish or else
d'Aurillac silk lace and relieved by steel lace,
cut steel buttons, feathers, and flowers. For
more general use are the rough straw bonnets
in colors, black or cream white, with bayadere-
striped satin Surah ribbon trimmings, or else
the ombre (shaded) ribbons, showing many
tones Of one color. A few black and colored
chip bonnets are shown for general wear, and
these are liked because they are SO light in
weight The first bonnet to be put on when
Spring days come is of medium size, with q
large crown, or else the poke as large as the
wearer finds becoming. and this will be made
of rough straw, usually black or cream white,
though sometimes brown, dark green, blue or
even red straws are chosen to match suits.
The trimming used is about two and half
yards of very wide soft ribbon, shaded or in
decided stripes. Tho middle of this length of
ribbon is secured by gilt or steel buckle or
leaf, or else large scarabee or dragon-fy, Just
ia front Of the crown. on the top OF the bonnet;
the ribbon is then spread out In wide folds
down on each side, caught in small space at
each ear, and hangs thence for strings II
flowers are added, they are on the left Side or
else across the top, and the same is true Of
feathers, though the greatest latitude is allowed
in the arrangement of the latter. The inside
of the brim may be smoothly faced with velvet
orately shirred. For dressy bonnet the rib
bon is dispensed with, and wreath Of crushed
looking chrysanthemums, carnations, roses, or
some many-petalled flower is placed around
the outside of the brim, from ear to ear, and
this Is yelled by net-silvered lace, jetted net,
or else Spanish lace-about half ward In
width, being drawn closely over the flowers as
if to hold them down, and the net then forms
the strings. The facing will be Surah of be-
coming color, with a fiat row of lace laid
upon it.
The silvered or steel lace bonnets are much
lighter and more dressy than those of steel
beaded net in embroidery designs worn during
the Winter. These silver bonnets need the
stylish salmon, pink coral, or dark red shades
in feathers or in flowers to give them tone
and make them youthful looking. Some
of the most elegant of the black Spanish
Of wide soar Sa Of the aps sn sss
of two rows of lace that is six inches
wide, with the straight edges sewed together.
For these, faring front frames Of medium size
are chosen, the middle of the scarf Is on top,
falling back on the crown and ending in wide
strings. The lace is laid in pleats on the edge
Of the front, and each pleat Is held by CIT
steel button that is faceted like precious stones
| Half-wreaths of dark red carnations are
| flowers are further back ON the crown; inside
the front row Of silver lace is laid quite plain
| with scallops coming close to the edge.
Pink coral with bright yellow is one Of the
favorite contrasts OF color, and when these two
| Spanish colors are used with Spanish lace, the
effect is excellent and is found to be as be-
| coming to blondes as to brunettes. Pink bon
nets are also given character by the use Of very
dark red trimmings, either of flowers, feathers
| or soft satin.
One of the maxims in millinery this spring
is that all trimmings are placed low, yet there
| are bonnets that give Q high effect for the
faces that need it, by the use Of full wreaths
and side pompons with erect aigrettes. or by
lNvn xxn1 hnux ANxx TA, a~olx
are rough straw round hats with higher conf
cal crowns, and wide fiat brims, trimmed with
pompons and cords outside, or else folded
bayadere-striped handkerchief or some short
ostrich tips, eight of which surround the
crown, spreading out on the brim. Sometimes
eight or ten pompons Of red, or black or cream
white silk are around the crown; on others
there are but two pompons with q cord OF steel
or of gilt laid around it in two or three rows.
The fiat brim is faced with velvet Of becom-
ing color, and may be studded with jet or steel
of steel or gold lace finishes it. An
other becoming fashion easily copied is that Of
turning the wide brim back on top, and
making it flare slightly on the sides, then COW
ering it with wreath of soft crushed roses,
which is in its turn covered by wide scarf Of
black Spanish lace, and letting the lace fall
over on the crown sufficiently for trimming
the effect of the Spanish mantilla. The coro-
net round hat has steel lace sewed at the top oi
the coronet so that its pointed edges fall to-
ward the face. The flaring hats are worn very
far back on the head, while the coronet hat Is
placed further forward, and gives a very broad
effect. The poke bonnets are sometimes sc
shaped that they may poke downward toward
the nose, and thus afford protection from the
sun, and save the eyes, as the excellent Eng
lish walking hats formerly did.
Round hats for little girls have shapes SINH
lar to those just described with the wide brim
turned back on the top, and are Of eithel
rough straws or fine Tuscans. Pompons o.
white silk and bows of long loops of white satir
ribbon are the trimming; the dark velvet lin
ings for brims frame childish faces becoming
ly, and the daisy clusters at the top remain tn,
most popular flowers for them. Dark rougi
: straw hats with dark pompons and cords are
for general wear, while large conical pok'
shapes are shown in Tuscan braids for dress,
occasions; the latter have white plumes an,
white satin ribbon, and there are also littl
pokes of white pleated lace, with flowers 70
|, trimming. Larger girls and misses in thei
1 teens will wear the poke shapes that are so bt
coming to youthful faces.
i An editor in Lehigh county received ne'
subscription last week-the first in six month
i and he announced it under the head 9Th
> Cry is Still They Come. Miners Journal.
al 81;