Helena weekly herald., 1881-12-08
Helena, Montana, Thursday, December 8, 1881 g..
FASHIONS FOR MEN. a-4.n
All Coats Shorter and Pants Tighter
[Harper's Bazaar

[Harper's Bazaar.
There are no marked changes made in the
cutting of gentlemen's clothing though PAN
falcons are narrower than those of last sea-
son, and all coats are shorter, including the
Prince Albert frock coat, dress coats, morn
ing cutaways sacks and also OvercOats. The
suit for business travelling, and morning
wear is made from one piece of English or
Scotch in neat plaids, checks, or mixtures
of colors. The coat may be sack with one
or four buttons or an English cutaway with
the same number of buttons. The vest cut
high like the coat, has a collar or not, ac-
cOrding to the fancy of the wearer. The
trousers are very close fitting.
The semi-dress suit for church and after
noon wear is really the day dress suit, as it
is worn to all entertainments given in the
day time, such as afternoon teas, receptions,
and weddings. This consists of Prince AL
bert double breasted coat of black or dark
blue twilled cloth-young men prefer dark
blue with marked diagonal lines this coat
is finished with silk facings, and the vest of
the same cloth is cut very high to match the
coat, so that only very little of the folded
scarf is shown below the color. The trousers
are made of heavy cloth, with dark neat
stripes, usually having gray effect, but no
special color prevails for these.
The dress suit remains unchanged in
shape, except that the coats are shortened
trife The most glossy West of England
broadcloth is used for this swallow tailed
coat and vest, which is cut low in front to
match it, and these are the only garments
now made of broadcloth for men of fashion.
Silk tacings may be used on such coats, or
they are omitted, as the Wearer directs. The
narrow trousers are of heavier dOeskin of the
same lustrous black used for the coat. Young
men of fashion NOW wear this suit to all en-
tertainments in the evening, putting 1T on
for o'clock dinners, making evening calls
in it, wearing it to the theatre, where for
mally it was seldom seen, and going thence
to receptions. Overcoats are made of Ely
Sims and fur beaver cloths, and are most
often sacks, slightly shorter than those of
last year, but occasionally a surtout over
coat is ordered. Blue, brown, and black arc
the colors used, without preference for
either
The shirt fronts chosen for all occasion for
dress as we'll as for general wear, are of plain
linen of three thicknesses, cut in shield
shape, and without any decorations in the
way of plaits or embroidery. This shirt
bosom is never visible except with the low
cut fronts of dress coats, when few tiny
tucks or cords may be stitched in the edge
outside of the single large stud which is
worn on dress occasions The stud is of
hammered gold or plan Etruscan gold, with
a jeweled center; diamond, sapphire or tor
1uois is preferred. Turned down collars are
again restored to favor for dress occasions,
but are worn very narrow, with small
open space that is filled by the small bow of
the white lawn scarf; Another shape has
the turned down collar meeting at the throat
but is sloped away broadly to show the fiat
scarf worn with it.