Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-03-01

DfesBm 1keT8-Ak IN eAF MSFcY-Ine
New Tvyeed-Neek Dressing-BOn-
net Trimming.
New YORK, February 2S What is the reason
silk is the only fabric in which a modern
woman considers herself dressed 1t is often
stiff, awkward, and difficult to manage: it Is
also often thin. glossy, and unbecoming as
| glazed paper. Fine dark wool holds color and
| light and shade better; it has greater depth
and softness; and some inexpensive cottons
have modesty, grace. and freshness which
may be credited to the wearers. and are
wonderfully cheap at the price. 1t is not long
since silk dress was a rare acquisition for the
wives Of comparatively rich men. Now every
woman and every young girl must not only
have silk dress, but many who cannot afford
it must have several, and have them fire.
uuently replaced, also, at any cost and any
l'sacrifce-made by others; for the selfish and
inconsiderate are too apt to put the best
things to the worst uses, and demand the best
long before they have learned the conditions
of its being
At the present time there is not the least ex-
cuse for buying silk when it cannot be afforded
or when wool or cotton would do just as well.
The cotton manufactures for dress purposes
have been gradually improving for several
years past, or rather they have revived some
of the styles that were known long ago. before
silks became so common as TO drive them for
time from the market.
This spring they are daintier, prettier, more
varied and more attractive than ever. The soft
satines are fine as silk. and there is new "cot-
ton batiSte" to which the name does great in
Justice for it is not SO slazy as the linen batiste
and viii not wear 'stringy" as does the linen
batiste, unless it is of the very highest grade.
and then it is too costly for majority.
What is called cotton batiste is made like
linen dress lawns. 1t is sheer, as ladies say,
without being diaphonous, and fine as well as
firm. 1t comes in small, charming designs
some Old English and some a modification of
the Japanese. Some lovely patterns are in
shaded blue, and others in very dull buff with
minutest leaves and tiny brown berries in the
delicate designs. They are of Arnold & Con-
s'able's importation, to which house is con-
signed ali OF AndersOn's famous Scotch zephyr
g1nghams. The colorings OF these no climate
or washing can alter. They are perfectly fast,
and so handsome in pattern and harmonious
IN IN colorlng as to make summer walking dresses
ft for princess.
Last year the very large piaids had vogue
10 consequence Of the sudden development of
the handkerchief" dresses, which the plaid
g1nghams easily repr Sented. Plaids of enoF-
NOUS pattern have also sold again this year,
but the more recent patterns show stripes in
varied clusters of lines; some fine as hairs and
shaded from stripes that are almost solid to
St1nct alternateS which form a very wide
stripe or different tone or color. The coIors
are grew, pink, blue and brown in different
combinations, and there are also some that are
very dark-wine, checked with old gold bottle.
blue and black-but these are moderate plaids,
plain. Very new combinations are shown in
wine colored satine, and a satine with wine
colored ground well covered with figure in
shaded daffodils, the colors being different
tints of olive. old blue and gold The short skirt
trimmed with pleatings or gathered fiounces
is OF the plain color. The princesse polonaise,
partly open and draped away from the 'front.'
is OF the figured fabric, and is finished With q
deep, round collar and cuffs of the plain satine
| bordered with pale, coffee-colored lace Some
OF the fine cottong are dotted, and have plain
material to match the ground; others are in
very small checks, and upon some of these latter
the trimming material is also dotted. The new
trimming OF best qualities can be selected to
match fabrics, and are equally fast in color
The colored cotton embroideries, for example,
OF Cash's manufacture, wash and wear with
| the goods. and are of a uniform 1neneSS of
texture that corresponds exactly with the
Anderson ginghams, and the pretty softfin-
ished satines, perchales and cambrics. The
trimmings need not be drawn by its gathering
thread into ruffing, but may be laid fiat. il
preferred and thus form very pretty and
durable embroidery. The Madeira embroidery
is manufactured in colors, also, but it cannot
be relied upon for the preservation of its color
and it is rot of uniform quality SO that texture
| and pattern can rarely be found to suit new
and fine cotton fabric, and when it is, the price
is exceptionally high.
THE SHORT DRESS
IN SIllI IN the ascendant, ana IL depends upon
women themselves to keep it so, or at least so
we'll sustained and pr0tecte that any woman
can Iear it without feeling herself remarka-
BILE. At present the short dress, as before re-
marked, is in the ascendant The majority of
evening dresses of silk, satin aud brocade worn
by Young girls are cut short, and spring walk
ing and visiting dresses of the richest material
clear the ground SO that they can be worn with
comparative comfort. Unlike the modes of
some ten or fifteen years ago, which ran into
all sorts of eccentricities, and made those who
INDUCED IN it look like mountebanks, the style
OF today IL, or may be. modest, sensible and
convenient. IL is not too short, and it is most
fashionable when it is simple and free from
overlooking. Can we not keep it, that is in its
essentials? There ought to be women enough
now of thought and intelligence to adhere to a
single idea, which is undeniably good-even
essentisl to health, economy, and Cleanliness
and which offers no restriction, except where
restriction is necessary to save waste-and the
attributes becoming every conscientious wo-
man.
One of the short dresses made recently for
brides outfit was Of the richest wine-colored
velvet, and consisted of shirred and fiounced 4
skirt, a princesse polonaise, and street Jacket
lined with silk to match. Polonaise and jacket
tons of carved moss agate and rufie and iabot
of Mechlin lace, the jabot for the jacket, form
ing shell like ends, but that Of the polonaise
reaching to the waist. Another short dress
for the same trousseau was composed wholly of
satin Of the new b,ue-grt en- shade known as
ducks breast" Il consisted of a trimmed
mantle, the latter gathered at the throat, but
drawn in at the waist where the fronts were
confined by a broad belt. The skirt In front
was mass OF shirrings and small straight
puffs and ruffies. The basque was a modified
cuIrass, sloped up at the sides and with fan
shape at the back and the rich trimming of
knotted silk and chenille fringe, with deep net
ted beading unon the mantle, exactly matched
Another dress for more serYiceable wear was
OF dark brown ZEPHYR TIVE d. 1t consisted of
walking skirt, polonaise, and cape with hood
The skirt was trimmed with single hounce
made in clusters of fine pleats spaced between
for about half the distance occupied by the
pleats The polonaise formed hollow pIaits
below the waist, which gave it the requisite
fullness, and was girded just below the inc of
the waist with heavy cord and tassels The
cape was straight and lined with silk, the hood
with dark brown satin The tone was dark
brown throughout. which is much more elegant
for outdoor costumes than striking contrast
HOODS.
1t is not necessary to say that in this country
we run everything into the ground An idea
that once obtains admission is used up In so
If not even its ghost is left in tune to witness
to the fact of its existence. Hoods have enter
ed upon this brief and undesirable season of
popularity. The original idea of hood was
that it should be put to use. 1t was;attached to
the round gipsy cloak to serve when reqHired
for covering for the head OF course this is |
out of the question NOWADAYS so the function |
as an ornamental accessory. OF the round |
cloak 1t still seems a necessary part and it is |
not an unbecoming addition to other garments, |
jackets and cepes, il the material is not SO l
thick as to be clumsy and the articles are for |
street wear. But do not put hoods on jackets /
and ulsters and cloakS and capes and every /
street garment in your possession, and above |
all things do not put them on your cashmere /
morning gowns or your handsome doiman /
cloak. In both these latter cases they are en-
tirely out of place and show poverty of ideas /
as well as ignorance of what is fitting
The jacket with hood is one of the ready /
made garments, and when the hood is moderate |
in size, fat, and lined with dark raw silk or |
satin, showing no violent contrasts Of color |
it looks extremely we'll upon slender young /
women. But later and more exclusive sty le /
Of jacket has deep round collar which mar /
rows off towards the front and crosses, form |
ing double breast, the collar continuing as a /
trimming, or forming collar only, as pre- |
ferred.
THE NEW DEPARTURE.
Nothing very decided in the way Of novelty |
need be expected this season in design or fab |
ric The revolutionary process which has |
given us color as an element to be artisticallv |
treated Is so recent that the unfolding and |
development for some time to come will ma /
turally be in the same direction. If any change
takes place it will have moro the appearances |
OF a reaction-of return to solid shades and /
fabrics, for the rush OF color was too sudden /
and the variety put upon the market too great |