Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-11-30
THE POTOMAC RIVER.



mac river was recently read before meeting of
the Maryland Academy of Science, and appears
I'm the Baltimore sam:
This historic and celebrated stream ia at once
the grandest and most remarkable of the sur
face features of Maryland It is in many re-
spects both river and bay Two great divi-
sions, marked by peculiar Municipalities.
distinguish it into the Upper and Lower Poto-
mac The latter forms the estuary or bay por-
Ton or the river, or that in which the
tides ehb and flow. 1t extends from George
town to Chesapeake bay. a distance of 125 miles.
Below Alexan dria it expands to a width of
nearly two miles. and all along it's winding course
receives the waters of wide picturesque creeks
which Increase its breadth and produce far
reaching estuaries at the lower levels. Some of
these eXpanses of water are from three to five
miles wide. while the river measures at its
mouth nearly eight miles. between Point Look
out and the Virginia shore. Along the upper
part of its course, south of Washington. the
banks are made up of clay and sand cliffs which
rise to height of 30 to 60 feet. but as it pro-
ceeds the hugh border lands gradually slope
lower, and finally fade out in points and bars
Before entering this division it has left the re-
gion of primitive rocks, and afterwards it passes
only through the alluvial and soft beds of the
Jurassic and later geological periods.
THE UPPER POTOMAC.
But that part of it to be more particularly
noticed here is the river proper, usually called
the Upper Potomac" 1t is at present entirely
beyond the reach of the tides and perhaps has
always been So Swift and powerful it rushes
in imperturbable grandeur through a channel of
IT'S own construction. cut out of all the series of
rocks and through the bodies of the most massive
and elevated mountains i'm the state I'm form
Ing the entire southwestern boundary of Mary
land 1T forms water border of uncommon
diversity and shapes with great diversity the
lower outlines of five large counties AWAY up
hIfrnr MT linC pyuifc harn E-ngt
virginia touches the great Backbone or Allie
ghany range, marked by the Fairfax stone. this
youngest of our great rivers bursts forth from
the sandstones. shales and limestones of the car
boniferOus strata. The region is one of marked
Interest from the variety of striking objects which
1T presents to view Hill tops and knobs of
mountain height. lofter than the Blue Ridge.
SNAPPED and trimmed by the tremendous floods
OF the later geological ages. stand in close prOX
unity between the crests of the higher ridges. A
vast sea OF rocky waves and fOrest-clad pillows
swallow up the landscape in all directions.
Broad belts of hemlOck. spruce and the north
ern pines bound the highest horizon and form a
dark background for the oaks. chestnuts. ma
pies, blrchcs and poplars of the less elevated po-
sItlons- most picturesque scene stretches
out before the eye as it takes in the winding
valley. with its silvery thread of water. here
and there arrested by a ledge of dark rocks
then flashing the sunlight from the torrent or
rapid, or leapin@ in foaml-stirring cascade to
the basin scoped in the rocks below. In the
deep solitude of the wilderness. where broken
masses of rock lie spread around in endless
confusion, where the forests are choked with
the trunks and branches of the fallen trees and
the mOstened slopes are covered with the mat
ted foliage OF the vines and creepers; there, too,
where the Towering shrubs and sweet scented
Terms weave chaplets and plumes of the tender
est green over the crowns of the weather worn
boulders. this bright streak of water pursues its
onward course, ever forward and downward.
with ceaseless impulse towards the sea- 1t is
1af fort
surface in territory nearly 200 miles in length,
while its tributaries on the north side cross
nearly or quite the entire width of the state Its
great south branch in Virginia, with the Shen-
andOah and dozen smaller rivers and creeks
orain an area fully twice as great. Indeed,
THE SOUTH BRANCH
Is the principal member of the upper river. and
to it is largely due the wide expanse of water
which it discloses before passing beyond the
high mountains. Soon after leaving the head
waters it has worn deep trough into the firm
rocks, torn away huge pieces from the hard
lodges and resiStleSSiy rasped and dug its way
downward along the flank of the great Back
bone mountain until the foot of the great coal
basin has been reached. Its course has hitherto
been northeast it has spread out into a broad
creek. with shallow but limpid water running
over stony and pebbly bed; now it makes
broad curve around to the west; then. resum-
ing the former course and bending north il re-
celyes the waters of a fine branch. the Savage
river; another bend is made and the George
creek adds its narrow stream to the 9uickened
Hood. which PUSHES on with new energy Its now
vigorous and strong creek, able to contend
with the distractions that press in its way Two
miles above the former it had taken a new
direction. going in general southeast course:
this is pursued for distance of about eight
miles during which it is tearing its way across
the end OF Dams mountain. and then flows on to
New creek. The slope Ofthe country now fayOrs
another change of direction. and accordingly
the river PUSHES away northeast through its
shalloWer trough. interrupted by frequent
rapids between the ridges of Dams and Knobbv
mountains, distance of twenty miles, when it
bends abruptly around the spur of the latter
mountain and touches the city of Cumberland
Wills creek now adds its quota of water and
the river passes down on the east side of
knObby mountain. Here it is charged with
Islands near the Virginia shore. and soon
bends into the form of the letter s to pass
through the gorge in Evitts mountain. it is
now in the very heart of high, abrupt ridges
whose barriers must be crossed at right angles
Running in straighter line towards the south
east. it PUSHES through the gorges of Martins,
Warrior and Town Hill mountains. surrounded
by most romantic scenery decorated in all di-
rectlOns by a boundless stretch of verdue-clad
dill and dale. In the interval it has been
Joined by the great South Branch. and the two
have united their waters to dash on with re-
ne~ed energy in rendng the hills and distrib-
utlng noufishment into the valleys further
away Having passed Town Hill. it flows in
long, irregular loops towards the northeast.
Cutting its way through the dense body
OF Sideling Hill and gliding in perfect
silence over the wreck of mighty lodges
Oh rock now lying as scattered bOuIders
over Its bed. it bends once more and runs
down the valley of the Tonoloway to where the
little town OF Hancock stands. out upon the
nils. Inc beautiful dam which feeds the
Chesapeake ard Ohio canal has been passed
the arched rocks and the cement beds of the
Round Top have been left behind and the beau
tiui. clear river as smooth and placid as a lake
giistens in the sunshine and reflects the images
of the grand old trees that line its banks Still
broad and shallow. pursuing its course over the
planned edges of the Sandstones, states and lime
stones that lie across its path, it makes long
sweep towards the east by little south. until
the spurs OF the North Mountains are reached.
At this point il has broken through a deem
gorge in the midst of q wild, rugged and most
romantic country, to become involved in diff
culties which it could only surmOunt by passing
suddenly around the unfolding rocks and form
ing a long. narrow loop After bending twice
more it strikes the heavy states at Williamsport.
admits the copious current OF the COnococheague
river, Is unable to penetrate further in the
direction and IL obi 70,