Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1881-06-24


When the blossoms die together,
Gone is scent of rose and rhyme,
Do.eful is the poels rhyhc
When the breeze from east was blowing
over wave and over lea
Was nv heart with grief oernowlng,
Elr INV love was false 10 me-
New Ycrk Fashions.
Irrom Harpcr's Bazar.l
Black grenadine remains standard
choice for Summer dresses, but this sea
the plain sswing-silk grenadines with
smooth surface will be chosen in prefer
ence to all others. The trimming for
this simple fabric is the richest embroid-
erv of silk on net in close patterns, and
this is combined with the SNOWY Spanish
lace. or the less decorative French
laces. made in excellent limitations OF real
thread lace. Fine knife-pleatlngs OF the
smooth grenadine are placed IN many
rows ND the entire front of the skirt.
breadth on each side is covered with pan
els of the embroidery, made by placing
two straight edges together, and putting
them leng;hwise on the skirt, then sur
rounding the whole panel with pleated
lace. The back drapery OF the grena-
dine is usually made of two breadths
yerv simply arranged, and long enough
to reach to the foot, where 1t meets two
narrow knife-pleatings like those on the
front Of the skirt Bows, chatelains, and
large rosettes of ribbon. either of plain
satin or else richly watered. rae on the
side panels. The basque for such dress
usually has surpllce vest oil the en-
broidery. and the entire sleeves may be
of the transparent embroidery, or else of
the prenadine. with a turned-up flat cuff
of this carniture. The back of the
basque has bows for ornament. Satin
Surah Of inexpensive quality is used for
the foundation of such a dress. When
embroidery is omitted, Spanish lace
founces are placed across the front and
side cores of the skirt and the drapery
is narrowly confined at the back. For
very gay dresses. for young ladies' the
terra-cotta shades olive. or yellow satin
Surah, is used for the entire foundation
beneath the transparent grenadine and
lace. When the dress is all black, it is
necessary is put scant fiounce or pleat-
ing of black crepe lisse under the lace
hounces to support them and also to
bring ont the figures well. The silk
square -meshed grenadines SO well liked
for .1rvie4 are made up "a -siaailSr styles,
and also with piaIn self-trlmmings for
morning wear and more general use.
Three deep pleatings covering the back
breadth, with an amply draped apron
and a single pleating at the foot, make
good design for these canvas grenadines,
or else the reverse of this IS used, having
two or three lengthwise pleatings for the
entire front, with two draped breadths
behind. A pretty basque for sueh dress
es has the front and sides cut oil an inch
or two below the waist line all around,
until the middle forms Of the back are
reached; deep pleating fron two to
three fingers deep then fills out the
shortened parts and meets the middle
back forms, which are folded IN two
great box pleats, or draped in handker-
chief points. or else have long scarf
tied in a sash bow upon them. When a
gayer dress is desired, steel or Jet fringes
and passementerie are used for trimming
these plain genadines, but the tasteful
choice this season is the heavy embroid-
ery and Spanish lace garnture.
When striped, blocked and brocaded
grenadines are used, those with satin
foundations are chosen, and many haze
the figures of plush or velvet. These are
made up over satin, but as this makes
them heavy, q skirt OF twilled Surah, or
else of the satin Surah, is preferred
where ightness of weight Is considered.
Two or three deep Surah pleatings, each
edged with Spanish lace, make besuti-
ful trimming for the front and sides of
such skirt The figured grenadine is
then draped on the back, and is used for
the basque.
Black and white striped silk is very
popular this season for the skirts Of
dresses, or rather for their tlounces.
Even stripes, each from half an inch to
an inch broad, are chosen in satin-stripe
gros grain, usually with the white stripe
of satin, and the black of gros grain; this
is LAID in pleats that have the black on
top, and the white beneath is only acci-
dentally disclosed. Five deep plaitiugs
Of this kind appear to surround the en-
tire skirt, but are only placed on the
sides, where they are not coyeaed 10y the
over-skirt, two Of the ilOunces alone pass
ing ground the foot. Such tlounces are
not fastened down as closely as they
formerly were, being only held once, and
that not stiflly, 10y a thread below the toy
where they are first sewed on. The over
skirt is looped high on one side-almost
to the waist, indoed-has very ample
draperies in front AID back forming {
point low on one side Of the front, and 1
similar point behind. This Over-skirt l.
ipliin black satin Sarah, and is merely
htnuaild by blind stitches and not other
wise trimmed unless Jet ornaments u
great pins shaped like hair-pins are use,
to hold up the drapery. The basque il
plain and round-that is, it is perfectly
even on the hips, instead of being short
er there than tfIc front and back-anC
is cut away from tine waist line in front
The Byron collar aud small cuffs have
thick Jet embroidery upon them, anC
there are small Jet buttons for fastening
the front. This simple and stylish dres
is well worn with q black rough straw
poke trimmed with shaded red plume
and is accompanied by large red sill
umbrella.
Watered silk is also stylishly used 70
trimming black silk or satin Surah dress
es. For instance, with n round blacl
silk waist, the neck draping, cuffs an'
sash are Of watered silk III strips alter
mating with satin stripes. Around tn
neck, reaching to the waist on each sid
of the front, are three straight folds, 81
laid that the satin stripes are concealed
and the watered stripes are on top. Tn
sleeves have similar folds at the wrist
The sash bow at the back is Of the stri
ped material, cut in half, made with tw
wide loops each half yard long, an'
two long ends; these are closely strappe,
and sewed TO wide belt of three sof
folds, making the stripes pass around tn
waist
Red abounds in summer toilettes, an,
is shown in all materials. A French COZ
tune. Just imported from Newport, is G
cross barred batiste i'll two or thre
shades Of red, trimmed with deep pleai
ings and draperies edged with blac
Breton lace Another dress for yacthin
or the mountains or sea shore, is dar
garnet wool as heavy as flannel, yet a
fine as camels hair this is made with
hunting Jacket and over-skirt, and ha
many rows of soatache braid of the sam
shade for trimming. Large bows an,
sashes of dark red satin ribbon are use,
with white costumes of various fabric
such as nuns yelling, dotted muslin, an
cream white batiste. Very pretty toilette
of white wool have Spanish lac
pleatings and draperies Of satin Surah j
stripes of most brilliant hues, or else i
pale fate colors.