Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1881-03-04

bcCcars, and demands pay for that ser
vice; and wants to bay some oraLgel
for us, and expects pay for tint also
Bat III the midst Of this confusion. Il
strange procession meets us. -Four men
in black robes approach, carrying a
strangely shaped cotfin or casket upon
their shoulders. The coffin is gorgeous
in crimson and gilt, but is carried as
carelessly as if it were nothing but d
stick Of wood.
Behirl 1t follow several boys in
birck skirts and white sacks, while sew
irregularly, some on one side of the
street, some on the other, all staring
about indifferently.
Will this hill never end? Shall we
never get out of this Babel? We sue
coed in buying few oranges, and at
last reach the top of the hill, and are
deserted by all the beggars except the
albino and two others, who run along
beside US as fast as our miserable horses
can trot over the rough road.
Soon we began the ascent Of Vesuvi-
US in earnest. The road turns back
ward and forward again and again,
rising little all the time. A part of
it is made over lava streams OF the
seventeenth century, on which scanty
vegetation is growing in places, and
parts of it over streams OF moro recent
eruptions all black and rough.
We see the Hermitage and Observa-
fory above US apparently not more than
half mile off. but we 60 on mile after
mile on our zigzag course. Our fol-
| Ia Oh, In 30 he nj 10,
straight up the rocks, and reach the
Hermitage before us. We come upon
a party of pedestrians from Massachu-
sets, who are ascending in the same
way With guide. They, too. leave us
behind.
At every turn some new object OF
| curiosity or interest meets our eyes.
Here an old man with o violin, and a
young man with au accordion accom-
panying his voice, favor us with an
Italian song for several rods, supple
mented, Of course, by the obsequious
bow and hat.
Here is little church, and an urchin
runs up to tell us it is the church OF
ST. Somebody. and wants soldi for
the information. A woman runs out of
a hut, bringing some bottles of wine
called "Lachryma Christi" or Tears
of Christ" which with violent gesticu-
lations, size insists on selling to us, but
with extreme indignation and astonish-
ment, carries then back when we
flourish our coffee bottles at her.
What new ruse for obtaining money
can there be? All! here it is. At the
next turn, little ragged urchin runs
out and stands upon his head till we
pass, and then runs after us calling
loudly for his pay.
We proceed, slowly climbing for
nearly two hours, and reach the Hermit
tsge at 11:20. Here we leave the team
and eat our lunch, which the landlord
had put up for us.
We put our bottles of coffee and
lemonade in our pockets, aud some
| eggs which wa are to cook in the hot
lava in the crater. Then We purchase
some sticks or rough canes, and try to
hire guide. But we are considered
victims, SO they charge. eleven francs.
We know the lawful tariff is only
four francs, but nobody pretends to
speak or understand English now, and
the policeman whose duty it is to pro-
tect travellers from the extortion of the
guides is nowhere to be found.
Thanks to friends, We know guides
are Lot necessary, 20 off we start at 11:40
alone, to the great alaazament of guides
and beggars, who call after as that we
must not 60 alone, we shall get lost or
be killed.
A plain path leads directly over the
lava beds OF several eruptions of quite
recent date, and we follow it; but as
soon as the guides see that we really
mean to 60 alone, and that they have
over reached themselves, seoen of them
start after US, hoping we shall need
their assistance when we reach the
cone.
Forty inmates Of hard walking brings
us to the foot of the cone. Here we
find the portantinas, or chairs with
poles extending from the seat, forward
and backward. The guide in front
carries the poles in his hands, the one
behind carries them on his shoulders,
and in this chair one can be carried up
the cone for thirty francs.
Here are our seven tormentore.
"Surely, madame wants q portantina?'
Surely she does not, and she will
| uOt Elek ueE u6CA III OQos
They can speak and understand Eng
lish now.
We begin the ascent. Some of the
impudent fellows start ahead urging III
to take hold of straps which they have
in their hands. Others follow close
behind, and want to puIsh US. They
purposely hinder us as much as posi-
BILE with their straps or hands thrus,
out in our way, and with their constan
. jsrgon.
The path is very sleep, and our fee
, sink several inches into the loose ashe
. and gravel at every step, but putting
our sticks down carefully, we push our
selves upward.
Neither entreaties, nor threats, no
even swinging our canes at them avail
to drive off our tormentors. Wors
: than mosquitoes in swanp, are these
Italian guides. With mulish obstina
cy they cling to US, but becoming
E weary at last, and seeing another party
coming, they run for them. and blu
one is left. Soon he too gets dis
couraged and goes back, and We ar
left alone. Again and again we 81
down in the ashes for few moment,