The Florida agriculturist. [volume] (DeLand, Fla.) 1878-1911, 1881-06-15
W.
81 40
budding Roses.
.lee. IN PACING Rural Press.


with a dormant eye, is by far the
most practiced, as far as we are aware
and must be considered the safest.
It's season varies, of course, somewhat
with the locality, and falls in July
and August, even IN September.
Your guide is the easiness with which
the bark loosens and this, again, is
at the time of the second rise OF sap.
The only objection to this budding
that l can see is that sometimes buds
in this peculiar climate commence
20 break, and are liable to be killed
by frost.
Spring budding, or budding with
the pushing eye, is, as far as am
aware, but little practiced IN TINS
country. Its season is when the hrst
rise OF The sap has caused the bark to
separate easily; and this is OF course
very different, according to season
(rainfall, etc. and locality, and may
be said to be from January, or still
earlier, to March.
The methods adopted for both
seasons are alike, and are substantially
the same as those used III oudnlhg
fruit trees. Some prefer what is
called the upright T, the Incislon
made in this manner i'll the park.
Some use the inverted l. but we
think that most people, when pecom
ING accustomed to the cross CUT /,
will prefer it to both others
The insertion of the bud is OF
course done a little different Iii all
three cases. In ALL the cut in the
stalk is made first. The bud IS then
cut out of the branch with little
shield Of bark about half an inch
above and below the bud. Practice
differs as to whether any wood should
accompany it or not, but we think
that it is deemed the most practical
way in this country to let some little
wood remain attached, instead OF
trying to get only the bark with the
root OF the bud.
In the upright r the bud is now
inserted thus the two splits are
loosened just enough to allow the
lower part Of the bark shield to pass
below, and the upper part OF the
shield is cut off square, SO as to fit
exactly to the cross cut. In the in
verified L the whole process is natur-
ally inverted, the square cut being
below and the overlapping being
above. This latter process has the
advantage of not allowing the mois-
ture so easy access, and is thought
to be more benefited by the
descending sap. The cross. cut
= is in our opinion the easiest of
them all. It allows both ends to be
overlapped by the bark, and the bud,
which in this case is placed right in
the =, is easier tied and secured,
while the operation is performed a
little quicker. The tying of the bud
is done with wooden thread, haste or
like material, and must be done so
that only the buds remain free. 1t
must be done firmly, still without
squeezing the bark, and is most ad-
vantageously done by another per-
son, who just follows after the man
inserting the bud.
The place of insertion OF the bud,
of course, must vary according TO the
aim contemplated; whether stand
ard rose is desired, or it is only the
vigor and influence of the stock that
is wanted, In the first case the bud
is inserted at the height OF the stem
desired, though there is nothing to
hinder raising the stem from the bud
it the rose is of an upright growth.
In the second place, if the vigor of |
growth, and not a standard, is de.
sired, the bud is best placed as near
the root as possible.
When tie starting bud has attained |
the length Of couple OF inches the
stem above is removed by sharp
cut close to the insertion and very
little care Is now needed, save pro.
tecting the shoots from being rubbed
against and so broken off.
When the bud shows that it has
united with the stalk the tying must
be loosened this is readily known
by observing whether the leaf stalk
that remained attached to the bark
has dropped or loosened, leaving
distinct scar, or it has shrlveled up,
remaining sticking closely TO the
bark. In the first case it has taken,
while the latter is sure sign OF fall
ure. 1t is hardly necessary to re.
mark that only well developed buds
That show no sign of breaking should
I've taken. no matter whether the op.