Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-10-01

satin-fnished silk which has not the stiffness or
Impenetrablity OF gros-grain, nor the smooth
| gloss of satin. but takes on lovely tints, falls
easily into graceful folds, and is specially adapted
therefore, to evening dresses and for the prin-
cesse bodices which are draped over the hips and
are 30 useful and pretty for hal-evening or at
home toilets. Satin nerveilleux is employed In
young women like it, and in gray or black it is
as suitable for the grandmama as the ivory and
cream tints are for the granddaughter. The lat
| ter combines well with nuns yelling and thin
mousslin de LANES in the construction of short
evening toilets not too expensive and suited for
small dances and sociabies. The skirt is all of
the wool, and ruffled to the knee; the back may
De draped or ruffled according to taste, and the
| princesse bodice has full trimming of Spanish
lace en- cascade and cream satin ribbon, large
DOW at the back being prominent feature.
Evening dresses up to certain age are uni
versally made short and the effect is simple.
some show the phfled sleeves and belted waist;
others shirred sleeves with masses Of finely
pleated rufling, and still others elbow sleeves Of
| Spanish lace.
some beautiful dresses are in preparation, the
skirts OF which are enriched with iounces of
Spanish point and Spanish point lace draped
upon the left side and garnitured with clusters
OF ribbon and lace. The bodice is of striped
spanish point lace and ribbon, and open but not
square at the throat. The shaped opening at
the neck, 1t may be as well to remark, is much
more fashionable than bOdices cut square. The
style Is In harmony with the pointed princesse
b0dlces, and square at the neck, it is hardly
necessary to say, should be carried out on the
lines upon the lower bodice and skirt. No more
Ignorant mistake can occur in the construction
OF toilet than to make tumble of architectural
or mathematical lines.
Satin merveiNeux is used for clOaks fur and
SATIN lined, and is for this purpose less glossy
tnan satln, more effective than satin de lyon. A
heavier variety is of course employed for this
purpose.
COOPERATIVE DRESS.
This association is an accomplished fact, and
mas announced its formal opening early in Oc-
to0er Its building is one of the finest In New
York for the purpose. comprising SIX floors two
hundred and fifty feet deep by fifty feet wide, on
one OF the wide streets, C23d, and is fitted with
tnree elevators, telephones, electric lights, and
every modern improvement. 1t has also secured
the services of efficient superintendent in their
diHerent departments, and it only remains to be
seen whether the business methods will show
sunlcient advance and the economic aspect adj
vantage enough to secure wide patronage.
Inc one enormous drawback in this country to
cheap production is the high price of
LABOR compared with that Of European c0un-
tries, and it's inferiOrity. This creates an
aggregate OF expenditure that doubles the sum
total for the same requirements abroad. and
renders 1t exceedingly difficult to sell cheap and
still meet the exacti0ns Inexperienced American
wOmen-buyers. The club feature is expected
to be q great attraction and its privileges will
hayea special value for ladies living at dis
lance, Monthly reunions, circulating library,
reading room, with club cOnveniences for
writing, resting, lunching. and dining are part
OF the program, and special entrance is pro-
vided for members who wish to reach the club
rooms and avail themselves of the social oppor-
tunities without going through the business
sections.
Among the imported costumes already re-
celved for the opening, in a walking suit of
called the Formosa. The ''victoro" is of dark
olive satin Rhadamas, MORE antique and silk
velvet, all in one color The wanda" is a COM
bnation OF dark satin duchesse and ombre
striped plush.
the ''NOblesse' is trained dress. all black
and very rich, a combination of black velvet and
satin merveieuX trimmed with prOfusiOn of
black lace and fine jet embroidery and fringe.
The ''Quecousse" is also black. 1t is walking
suit Of black satin, beautifully trimmed with
embroidery of fine cut jet and steel The '.Pou-
treslna " is seal brown suit of satin merveil-
leux, trimmed with plush. The Every Good"
Is black walking dress of satin meryeilleuX.
MORE antique and silk velvet. The Martigny''
is bronze brown walking suit of satin and
plush, the best made Of old gold MORE ANTIQUE.
Many new esthetic designs are in preparation.
and historic models will be exhibited, designed
by Mr.. Frank Mi!iet, the artist who designed the
costumes for the Greek play produced at Har-
ward.
The ground fiDor Of the building is devoted to
all kinds Of piece goods and small wares. the
second floor to suits and children's clothing,
also articles forigentlemen. The third floor con-
tains an arcade m which are departments for
shoes. millinery perfumery, stationery, and
many others. The upper floors are devoted to
club purposes and work rooms. The presidents
room, fitting rooms, and the like are on the Sec
Ond floor.
B0NNETs AND FCRs.
have not space for any detail in regard to
bonnets, furs, cloaks, or outdoor wear gem
orally, and indeed, it is too early to predict with
certainty matters which depend largely upon
the tenperature-On the comparative GOODNESS
or mildness OF the season. In general terms it
may be said that both hats and bonnets will be
large faced with velvet or plush, and trimmed
with feathers The cabriolet shape and the
high narrow crowned poke being the favored
shapes in the most fashionable circles. But
the use of plush will modify size and high color
and the employment Of gold trimmings favor
the small bonnet later in the season. Feather
iOques and turbans are put upon the market in
immense quantities this fall, but they are a
local fashion and most unbecoming with their
fat shapes and bright shiny surfaces
The new thing in fnrs is long narrow collar
shaped to the neck, but extending In narrow
tabs to the top of belted waist-a modification
OF the Oid-fashioned vict0rine. 1t is made in
oidck IOA. seal, SreOe, RUSSIAN ChlnChila, otter
and natural beaver-the most fashionable furs of
the season, The small cape or straight pelerine
is made In beaver, fox and seal, and is very
stylish vogue just now; only those that are fine,
short and smooth or very soft and close, as
beaver and Russian chinchilla.
The finest fur-lined ClOakS are Of the dolman
shape, and are fifty inches long They are made
Of brocaded silk, satin merveilleux, and satin de
Lyon, lined with whole squirrel and trimmed
with seal, otter, black fox, or Russian chinchia.
What were known as the ''pointed" furs are less
used than formerly. Natural beaver is used
more for sets-cape or collar and muff They
are specially suited for wear with mastic -colored
beayer-clOth coats and felt hats Of the same
shade, trimmed with feathers and satin to match.
and faced with coral red or crimson plush.
Coral-red silk, trimmed with white lace, will
be in high vogue this winter for evening dresses.
particularly for blondes with very fair hair. En-
broidered gloves and gloves puffed upon the
arm are used more upon the stage than else
where. They are neitheriadylike nor any improve
ment to the shape of the arm and hand
JENNIE JUNE.
Jobs Affections
To the Editor of THE EVENING STAR:
q To nsckrc tot