Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1881-04-01

ATTRACTIONS OF THE BAvARIAN CAPITAL
THE TRIP soUTHw hRD-vERoNA.
VENICE, March 5.


VENICE, March 5.
To the Editor of the Free Press aud Times
The clouds which had lasted for three or
four days were still hanging over Munich,
yesterday morning, when We started for
the ancient capital of the Doges, the city in
the sea. Our stay in the Bavarian capital
had not been one of unalloyed pleasantness.
Tho attentive clerk and servants of the
Rheinischer lIof had done everything in
their power it is true, to make our slay
pleasant, and notwithstanding that the new
picture gallery was closed for repairs, we
came away with the feeling that the picture
galleries that were open were worth gong
hundreds of miles to see. The taste for art,
too, which has grown up there no less than
the important art collections which have
been made in the course OF the
last half century, makes il one OF the most
interesting spots in Europe for the student
OF art Perhaps more was done TO encourage
painting and sculpture by Lewis |. than by
the last King of Prussia, but the efforts OF
the Bavarian monarch produced more sub
stantia results if they did no: foster so critical
work, and, unlike the Prissian king, | be
lieve he may be said to have brought out an
independent school of art Recent work in
Berlin, on the other hand. has always been
fragmentary and therefore less interesting.
Many Of the public buildings in Munich, too,
are superior 10 any that can be found
noble entrance and the university are worthy
of special mention. and the Court Chapel Is,
as Baldeker says, "a perfect gem'-one OF
those rare instances OF unbounded splendor
combined with the strctest harmony OF
forms and colors. The Opera House IS
not 80 richly decorated AS its rival AT Der
lin-which is not TO be regarded as misfor
tune, perhaps, but ii is somewhat larger, and
the excellence of the soloists there is famous,
The last evening Of our stay in Munich we
heard an excellent presentation Of "Lohen-
grum" with Yogi in the title role. The OPP
portunities for study and amusement in
Munich are great inducements 10 prolong
ones stay if he dares TO spend hour after
hour in ice-cold museums. Severe colds
caught there, however. made us eager for
sunny Italy"
1t was ten minutes past nine yesterday
morning when we left the large union depot
OF Munich and sped southYard through the
fertile, rolling fields toward the Bremen
Pass. The freezing winds were first TO sug-
gest the proximity of the Alps. Then they
doomed up in the dim distance more and
more distinct US We came gradually nearer
them There were no foot hills. The noun
tains seemed 10 rise up like giants out of the
midst of the plain. Closer and closer we
came and the train turned first right and
then left AS if choosing the best point OF at
tack Then We drove straight forward
toward the solld mass of forests and ice and
rocks Suddenly the forests and snow and
lodges separated and our shrieking, pulling
guide led US triumphantly into the heart of
the Tyrol At first the valley was broad and
the scenery tame, Snow covered the fields,
and while the ground was resting farmers
were chopping in the forests, driving the
timbers and wood down the steep mountain
sides and drawing them TO the little mills by
the river. The farther We penetrated the
Tyrol the more picturesque the scenery be-
came and the narrower the valley through
which We passed. Soon We were obliged to
leav the toItuous course OF the rlver, now
shooting through DARK tunnels, now gliding
along the edge of n frightful prccipce. and
then suddenly darling over the stream and
into the mountains on the other side he
tween Innsbruck and Botzcn, distance of
seventy eight miles, we passed through no
less than twenty-five tunnels and over more
than sixty bridges. The scenery was grand
beyond description. have never seen the
White Mountains in Winter but from their
appearance in SummerI should suppose they
might justly lie compared to the Tyrol re
gion of the Brenner Pass. Perhaps the
scenery from North Conway 10 Fa-
byan's is even little more grand,
especially along the Crawford Notch,
at the bases of Webster and Washing
ton But after We passed the Brenner Pass
seas, we found within a few miles a contrast
which even our grand old white mountains
cannot boast | had been reading in my
faithful guide book for a few moments when
upon looking out of the windows the snow
was all gone, and in lis stead the ground was
covered with green sward. The whole aspect
was changed. Even upon the high noun
tain sides SO far as We could see there was
no snow. Along the sides sheep were grazing.
The white painted houses on the projecting
cliffs now looked more like the dwellings OF
civilized men than the eyries OF wild birds. In
the valley the farmers were plnughlng and
preparing the grape-vineS for the summer.
The grass could almost be seen TO wave in
the gentle winds that were driven from the
great Sahara and the Mediterranean up the
valley: and these were the winds which
made the surprising difference in the vcgeta-
ton on the north and south sides OF the
mountain range. At Ala, after n twelve
hours ride, we passed out of Austria into
Italy and in another hour were in Verona.
suppose this ancient town Is interesting
to most English speaking people, AS
il WAS TO my travelling com
panion, on account of that most famous Of
love scenes which Shakspere located there
II was late at night when we reached the
Hotel Cola, and in spite Of the poetry of the
town we were soon In bed and put 10 sleep
by the music of the river Adige, flowing
under our windows In the morning we
were early awake After breakfast We stroll
ed out for q walk through the town. Now
Us we could spend only about eight hours to
see the sights of the town, OF course 1t was
my plan, as in all such cases to see only
those sights which were marked in our
guide-book with an asterlsk. My Trend,
too, usually took up with the plan,
but that morning his head was completely
| turned. The arena of the Roman times,
paintings, churches, fine archltecture-his
interest for them all was lost We wander
ed. following his guide, through the chef
market place, through narrow street, and
| looked for hat over a gateway, hut after
visiting the via Capelo twice and searching
faithfully. his patience was exhausted
"Darn it faint this hat store, said he.
by George, we have seen it, but | guess
we cant find It" So we visited the other
sights of the town and then walked back
silently to our hotel Before dinner WAS
| over he had cornered the waiter and put hall
a franc in his hand In our after dinner
walk we retraced our steps To the via Capcllo
and there, in neat, three stored, crcam-col-
ored house, with balcony around the third
story, we found the scene OF Romco's fruit
less wOoing- IL. y. Is.
WHEN Senator Edmunds informed the
tissue ballot operators of South Carolina that
they must undergo the Inconvenience oil al
| lowing every man one vote II they wished
10 draw new people within their borders, he
| uttered A great truth which il behOpyes them