The Red Cloud chief., 1881-04-28
Spring Hats and Bennet6.


Foxes OF medium size. some small
bonnets. and very large faring round
hats make up the bulk Of the hrst i'm
portations Of spring bonnets- The
pattern ponnets shown are meant for
the earliest spring DAYS. and are of the
closely woven Tuscan and Leghorn
braids, or the split Belgian strsws
rather than the open lace-Ike fancy
straws that will be used when simmer
comes. The pokes are no, extravaganza
" large. and are of much better shape
than those woru in the autumn;
the front projects very slightly, the
ears are short, and the crown Is quite
close, with either 8 reversiurned up on
il, or else q very close curtain band.
The novelty in such bonDets is The re-
turnto face trimmings for them. nrrang-
ell in the styles Of n hundred years ago.
and the use of ribbons and soft satin
trimmings that are reproductions of
fabrics made at LYONS and AZ ST.
Etiennc at the saMe period. A tiny
bouquet of roses just inside the brim is
very becoming to young face; some
times this is omitted. aud there Is a
soft puff of satin merveilleux forming 3
face trimming. while in others the satin
is . smooth lining on which wide white
lace is pieated and sewed sat: piaintest
of all is a coquettish bow of ribbon IN
side. quite far back in the poke, with the
ends rolled Ike 4 curl. and sewed down
each side. then coming out IT the ears
to form strings. a great deal OF ribbon
is used for trimming pokes. and this is
from five TO seven inches wide; espe-
cially is il wide for strings. and all
pokes have strings. A fat effect IS
given in trimming pokes. though some
times an exaggerated bow, somewhat
in Alsacian stS lie. is placed directly on
top. with sharply notched ends hang
iny down on the sides. Feathers and
flowers are also largely used. Ostrich
feathers have taken the place OF the
fancy feathers OF the winter. Two
demi-long plumes begin on the left
side of the poke. and cross the
top to the right, resting there
fatty IN the way now seer on
the Bernhard pokes; sometimes a
single plume begins on the right side.
and hangs almost straight down behind,
while in other casee a very long plume
surrounds the crown. Straw gimp
edges the brim of smooth pokes, or
sometimes beaded lace is used. or bead
ed galloOn binds the edge. or else tinsel
lace is pleated on, and studded with Z
or two rows of silver or gold faceted
beads that are as large As bullets.
Flowers are most often placed close
against the let side. and quite low
down; 4 smaller cluster then peers from
beneath the brim, and is repeated on
the strings.
The small bOnnets shown are very
similar in shape 10 those with broad Tia,
crowns worn during the winter. and are
meant for dress hats. They are laden
with trimmings that take on the Asa
elan bow shape; for instance, q Tuscan
straw bonnet has two loops OF Tuscan
braid (iued with satin and with Mechlin
lace) forming N side of an Alsacian
bow. while the other side OF this bow
is made of the lovelicst white ostrich
tips. A faceted gold clasp forms the
center OF the bow; the curtain band
turns up like n reyerS, and has lace
upon it; similar lace is pleated inside
the brim. and this distinguished little
bonnet is completed by white satin
meryeilleux ribbon strings six inches
wide. and more than a yard long.
Another small bonnet is made up of
some Of the newest fancy materials. and
although silver net and jet are intro
duced. the prevailing color is red-the
new Nandyck rei-as this appears in
the satin merveilleux which IS p.eated
on the foundation beneath the jet and
silver lace, and also in the strings of
omJre red satin. shaded from deepest
Vandyck up TO pink. A cluster of
shaded peoples trims the back of the
crown like a comb. Another little
bonnet, scarcely more than a fanchon,
of silver lace. has for its only trimming
a monture of red peoples. branched to
show four shades. arranged in a huge
bow. and tied in the center with striped
grass.
The round hats are male in large
picturesque shapes, with soft brimS not
wired, and lined with a pleated lace
frill. or else fully-pufed satin; or in
contrast to this there is a stiff brim
rolled to fare all around. lined with
velvet, edged with beaded laces and
great faceted beads. and half hidden by
the small nodding plumes that fall over
it from the crown. The feathers on
such hats are masSed in p~rOfusion that
exceeds even the styles of the winter;
both small tips and large shaded plumes
are used. A novelty in such hats has a
Marie Stuart point in front. Flowers
are mixed with feathers on hats, a
wreath sometimes passing a'Ong the
brim on the inside and sometimes out
side. White Mechlin and Languedoc
laces edging net or null form scarfs for
trimming light hats that have pomrons
OF flowers finished with feathers, or else
they are trimmed on one side with six
or eight tiny ostrich tips. Again. there
are large scarfs of satin merveilleux
shaded in stripes and plaids of Madras
~colors, with bars of gold. silver or steel;
these are used also on dark bonnets for
travelling and for morning shopping.
For black round hats there are steel
trimmings and voluminouS scarfs OF
Spanish lace put on 10 w nearly all
the top of the crown, rs well as 10 sur
round it. The dcdjCE, or mahogany
red shades. are seen in the Tuscan
straw and ostrich trimmings Of very eX-
p~ensive round hats. There are other
straws colored the stylish condor
brown. which is one of the new golden
brown shades, and made into large hats
that require the onbre satin meryeiIleux
scarfs of yellow. shading from maize
into brown for trimming; a little straw
colored lace and some condor brown
velvet trim the brim. and there is a
long shaded plume on the left side
Harper's Ba-ar.
Reoom Drill hr IaMoQ Girls