The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-03-10
New York Fashions.
IHarper'S Bazaar I


Late importations of millinery show plainly
that small bonnets will not be laid aside dur
ing the spring They are very dressy, and are
so becoming to many faces that ladies who
have several bonnets will not fail to provide
themselves with pretty capote of Tuscan
braid or of open-patterned straw lace for
church and receptions, also for calling and
driving in the city. During the summer
months, pokes and picturesque large round
hats will be most generally worn, but even
then the small close bonnet of lace and flowers
will not be wholly abandoned. Some of the
new shapes have small coronet, while in 9TH
ers the brim is pointed upward in the middle,
and descends thence close to the hair on the
edge. A few Normandy crowns are also seen
on such bonnets. The wide ribbons will be
very little used for small bonnets except as
strings. They will be trimmed with laces and
flowers, and especially with ths new large
pompoms that are partly flowers and partly
feathers. A great many shirred Surah bon
nets are found among early importations, and
these are shown both in large and small sizes
Among the most stylish Of the new dresses
are those of the black soft twilled silk known
as satin Surah, or as satin merveilleux. Some
of these dresses are entirely black, while others
have gay-colored Surahs embroidered with
them, or else great deal of steel used as trim
ming. The soft Surahs drape so gracefully
that the over dresses are usually very much
Susi..l.a0d uuu fufueu.- me apron front which
is permanently attached to the lower skirt, is
formed of series of curved folds accumulated
almost to point in the middle of the front, or
else very low on one side; the back drapery
falls gracefully in looser, longer folds. One
such costume entirely of black satin merveil-
leux is richly trimmed with peatings of the
same, gathered Spanish lace, and wide Jet pas
sementerie, which is mounted on net and has
the effect of lace. The skirt has two knife
pleatings of the material, each finger deep
around the foot. Above this is pleating half
a yard deep edged with Spanish lace three in
ches wide, and this lace falls ON the narrow
pleating. Still higher up the front isl drapery
OF many folds representing sharply pointed
narrow apron. ..4 .t.r rr
Black cashmere dresses are also being made
up for the early Lenten season, and are
trimmed with border of black Surah satin,
beaded fringe, and Spanish lace. Such dress
is very handsome made with two deep straight
founces of cashmere shirred in several rows at
the top, folded in pleats below, and bordered
with bias band Of satin Surah two inches
wide. The apron, attached to the belt perma-
nently, is very much wrinked, and reaches to
the top of the upper founce, where its edges
are turned under out of sight The back full
ness forms two soft yet bouffant puffs separated
by rows of shirring, and on the upper puff fall
two folded bands of the Surah, meeting in v
shape where they are completed by long
looped Surah bow. The round basque has the
middle forms of the back folded in two box
pleats that show triple pleats of Surah where
they fall open below the waist line. The front
has vest of the satin laid in fine pleats to a
point below the waist, and the cashmere of the
basque that is drawn from under this vest is
shirred along the entire edges of the vest from
the neck to the point. Black satin ribbon, tied
in bow below the point, is inserted in the
second dart. The collar and cuffs of black sat
Jet beads in vermiceii % designs. ms Friis Of w yery
fully gathered Spanish lace are then put round
the neck and sleeves, and ladies of very fair
complexion do not add anything white inside
these. To complete this suit there should be
a small capote bonnet of Spanish lace, with
some jet and feather pompons for trimming.
Ladies who are making up grenadines at this
early season, are advised that the handsomest
ones yet imported are striped rather than bro
caded, and that the stripes are alternately of
satin and of open-work like lace. In some
cases this striped stuff is confined to the basque
alone, while the skirts are of plain iron grena-
dine, or else the smooth sewing-silk grenadines
with some of the striped goods used for
retrousses and borders. Spanish lace, Breton,
SsSSe -
for garniture One notably handsome dress
of black grenadine, with half-inch stripes
of satin and of some open-meshed design, has
each Of the sides covered with jabot Of black
silk Spanish lace, the jabots being half yard
wide. On the 'front.' between the jabots, are
three deep striped 1ounces widely shirred and
bordered with lace. The back drapery is an
extension of a wrinkled breadth that crosses
the top of the front like a scarf apron, and this
falls in a single long slender curve of the
straight scarf-not cut in the middle at the
bottom-and merely held by pleating the ends
into the belt A narrow iabot of lace is down
the middle of the back of the foundation skirt,
and is disclosed when the scarf falls open. The
basque has the neck cut out square, and filled
in with four rows Of Spanish lace that extend
in double standing frill at the back; Just out
side of this frill at the back is bias standing
collar, with wire to hold the lace frill erect.
Two bows of the lace are gathered on the edge
Of the basque in the front. The back is irreg-
ularly trimmed, the side form on the left being
caught up by bow on the middle box pleats,
while the side form on the right is simply
hemmed and has weights in the hem to hold
it quite fiat. The sleeves have two ruffles of
lace falling toward the wrists and are gath
cred up slightly on the inside Of the arm.