New-York tribune., 1881-09-11
THE FASHIONS.
BRICs AND STYLES FOR AUTUMN.

FABRICS AND STYLES FOR AUTUMN
PLAYED IN COMBINATIONS OF COLoRs-FAvO-
RITE FABRICS OF SILK AND woOL-rHE RAGE FOR
PLCsH--TRAvELLING NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS.
TERIE AND JET TRIMMINGS.
1t is becoming necessary that fashion writers
should arise and perform for the ysiologie du Gou
as applied to dress the gracious service which Brat
Savarin rendered reg lrling the delicious and
mysterious arts OF the table, mngng with the aesthetic,
pohucal ana metaphysical siGnifcahces Of the
day. Rocco MEANS" says Bescheree, "to
denote what ia fantastic outre III decorative art !"
and certainly aso applies to the revival mania which
goes back to Aholiab who receives puff" in Exodus
as the great embroiderer in blue web Penelope
needs no mention, and continues through centuries
TIL the present day 1t is age of and Of
nificence; exquisite art dcying nature, and
The days of Richard the Second revived IN the
fashions that then caused the Imprisonment of tie
fortunate tailor who devised and sewed such ungody
fancics as mantes and flowing sleeves of cloth of gold
vevetedgcd, with fue BORDERING oaf-shapeI, which
is precisely the fashion OF the present day.
The new and eccentric fashions introduced lately, not
only III styles but In odd coIbnatous OF colors, win be
con mued on through the autumn and winter There
are violent contrasts, watch offend the artistic
eye, and others are SO picturesque that becomes
gradually reconcod to the loss of le soft tints
charming grays are seen not real gray but gIaysh for
mdcnntc Ia color, the tint of olive leaves
the tree is neither white bat neutral CLAN
cous which barnonaes with everything contrased with
1t. There are some ruddy and golden browns Other
artistic colors the Florentino bronzes god and
Sreen these promise 10 rank high in popularity
| in silk and IN wool fabrics Among colors intro
duced during the just passing away, and which
win continue to be popular, uppc
before 1t is varnished the lovely CA blue Old copper
tiuts, or chaudO coffee red crerete rosy salmon
Color otherwise known shrimp; Pompehan and duh
brick red dctiou mahogany; and daha. 1t to be
an important object of The modises many
and tins together possible and contrve of them har
mOnious wuoo. The onbro stripes bold and stiik-
ing some of them 5nccnt in such Oriental colJrs
au red blue olive, and the yellow gray loved by tho
people OF the East.
POPULAR MATERIALS.
In wool fabrics here is an enormous demand for the
Radzimcr Sicienncs. which possess silky, ustrous
surface and alike suitable for dresses wraps 1t
very wide and costs - yard. The Radzmer silks
soft sany ustrc; in fact, all satin-tnshed fabrics
will hold an important part in costly toilets spcci
OF the extreme tone OF high colors and exaggerated
contrasts is seen in an imported costume The pescd
skirt IL composed OF intense red surah SILK, trimmed
with two or three of Onbre In shades
red and the Florentne bronze; Eadzuer silk OF the
golden pheasant tint is gracefully drdped about the
skirt; the basque is made of MORE fancifny arranged:
stripes take ne place of checks Three styles fabric
are placed together the basque Is either OF MORE or
watored silk the plain skirt of lustrous satny silk the
trimming such as wide nonnce Is OF striped silk laid
In pleats The passion for plush which had It's growth
las season is stl preemincnt. The latest novelty
trimmings. The pile is cut in such way forIn
cross stripes two inches wide, in different lengths. A
superb pattern OF satin Merveeuse s covered with
lilies, tulips roses, suntowers daisies Of push like soft
est uncut velvet. magnificent material is rich
vet covered with plush designs the grounds Of this
style OF brocadcd plush In elegant shades a.
Car blue the plush howers OF pheasant golden brown
eXqusitely shaded and vencd, in wine colors
strewn with Tue plush flowers in black or bronze
Extravagance of embcl,hmcnt and Wild ire gnlarity
OF outline rather welcomed than discoura ged
love of the sensational is another of eccentrci
ties In costume, and the desire for change-a
desrr naturally ostcred by those make good TOR
trade For example axe one of Imported nodo which
promise 10 be popular The material of -oitest cames
har Is OF golden pheasant brown, striped with Ro be
OF rch hiocale SHOWS the varied dark Persian coors
Offering the strongest possible contrast. The
White to c6ocolotp bT"wp. and there @ & ess"y
eopard-Hkln pluhheS made To combine with nore
or plush costumes Parisian model has a turqnoise
blue plush skirt with peas arranged tiger plush; the
tabler is OF the same trimming united TO the
m setan sdE Icgr" Is Mje girdit OF the plush with
drapery and shirrn. forming IN agreeable ensemble
ness over eronns of IcS yoi', sn , n,o,n 90 ~
the heayy moesAin velvet of laubent silver scattered
reguar over grounds of onc winc-color concebrown,
pale ce az du and water green satin otAcr broad
dIsks OF green Dron@e nethy7l aud sulphur. OF plush
Another new material is Rhadamos silk twillcd upon
both sides, yet having a rgit side pcrccpunc In the
stately sweep In It's folds, simple graceful Eesusc
tatcd from the oblivion OF two or threc decades
than those of silk these i richest satin brocade
with separate designs Ior the hounces. Heavy MORE
antiques, as well as watercd silks rcinstated
Omore silSs are lately soen also waercd In little
iu rlpplcs IN such pretty shadings aud mauve
mothcr-ofpear opai, aud tine red oi e6rdonyx. Some
autumn toilets Tor tile mountains made OF hunters
green hnne with poIonaises ot and gold striped
SILK and wool stuirs Tho necessary wrap suppncd
Ia Il Jacket of nannel. having hood atticned
aud large gilt buttons. Tne jacket Ia lou
blc-breastcd. The accompanying Derby hat
corresponds in color, having WIDER brm than those OF
last year; the space between the is nrd
IN WIN the pencocks breast piuhngc and some loosely
with gold pms or oXiiizcd OWLS heuds.
PATTERNS FOR EARLY AUTUMN.
The first and important OF the Autumn openings
IL that Of paper patterns the millions of both Ign
aud low degree, whereby the mystery OF dress
making at home is mado clear 20 the most
ignorant by following the simple Instructions and
illustrated figures on the envelopes containing the
patterns. or these the OtBmpe p,s,te Ia especially
graceful and unique The fun sleeves are inserted In
full dolman STYLE and then drawn In shrrs the
waist and edged like the rest of garment. with wide
lace. II Is made mostly OF Scienne. satin Mervelcuse
cashmere, and trimmed with passemcntere long
ooped satin bows The Grosvenor pelsse very ele
CANT wrap cut long In cIrceshape with curved oporings
cut IN the sides to admit of the graduated plcatings
that serve for sleeves Inserted In the back
Sat San qyeH 6So% the the W@st rs snpe'"d g"nf
Perrot collar completes the peissc which is suitable FOR
street or travelling purposes These peatngs may of
for child, the COsette, is equally unique aud very
quaint; 1t IL cut sacqucshape with extensions the
neck,turned under AT he lower parts and shirred 10
form sleeves sash IL inserted at the back and the
at the bottom with wide pleating. picturesque and
quaint little drcss In the Greenaway blouse, loosely
square yoke The long tight sleeves finished win
fun pufs ut the tos ana the skirt Is trimmed around
heading. broad sash il placed the body very
hEi nearly covering the heart The Gr'nina toet ad