Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1881-01-27
Fashions In Mourning. etc.

Dresses for deep mourning wear are OF
black wooden goods without any luster,
trimmed with English Grape. For second
mourning such materials are employed
as alpaca and wooden grenadine. The
trimmings generally consist OF em-
broidery, passementerie and black fur.
The bonnets are OF silk grenadine, trim
med with jet-work, black flowers and a
little silk. Caps are also of silk grena-
dine. Long Grape wells are thrown
back, and a small round veil Ia worn
over the face. Dresses for still lighter
mourning are of silk tissues, ranging
from the heaviest silks to the light
est fabrics. CONNECTIONS are either in
materials matching the suits or of
light tissues trimmed with jet. en-
broideries, feathers, or fur. Bonnets
and head. dresses re of lace and silk
gauze. Gloves r the deepest mourn
ing are OF undressed kid. or "bourre de
soie,n and for the lighter mourning they
are of kid. For house wear, cachemire
dresses have the lower parts half covered
with Grape, and are suitable for ladies
of all ages. Young ladies can wear
skirred woolen dresses, cut princesse
shape, or polonaise draped over a
plated skirt. The latter has only on
the lower part three rows OF stitching.
A dress for deep mourning wear is
made in n round skirt. trimmed with
four rows of plated flouncd, over this
are sewed bands of Grape. The tunic
Is rounded and open. 1t is bordeTed
with Grape band. The basque waist
Is trimmed in the same manner. The
Grape collar is square. Down the front
of the waist is square breast-piece
and Grape draperies, with Grape bows
on the lower part. The cuffs are
also of Grape. The Marie Stuart shaped
Grape lat is covered with long Grape
veil. Another toilet is of India cache-
mire bordered with a plated founce.
Above this the skirt alternates ia plain
and plated pieces. The vIsite mantle is
of the same material rs the dress; It
falls in large, regular plaits. On the
lower part in front is deep Grape band.
The square collar is of double Grape.
The capote worn with this suit is of
crepe lisse, trimmed with black feathers.
The strings and rosettes are of Grape. A
bonnet for deep mourning wear may be
covered with Grape. Over the brim and
part of the crown are nine rows Of Grape
pipines. In front of the crown is a
large Grape ruching. The Grape strings
are tsken from the top OF the crown.
Another bonnet for lighter mourning
wear has plated Grape scarf around
, the crown. This crosses In the back and
Is fastened by n Jet buckle. In front of
the crown is a garland of jet flowers.
Around the brim Is a Grape ruching.
The Grape strings have fringe on the
sides. A fichu may be of a st aight
piece OF Grape, plated In three plaits
The outer border Is surrounded by
fringe. On the inner edge Is n Grape
plating, forming the neck trimming and
extending all the way down. The fichu
Is crossed at the waist, and then falls In
one straight end. Another fichu is of
grenadine covered with Jet embroidery
on black tulle. Around the neck and
down the front is a plating. The ends
are short and narrow. The iehu may
be half covered with jet-work, making
a bordering, with the inside arranged to
form plated drapery.