Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-08-09
FASHIONS ABROAD.

FASHIONS ABROAD.
THREE GREAT FASHION CENTERS-THE ESTHETIC
cRAzE-EccENTRIcIT1Es IN TOURISTS cos
TUAES-LoCAL FAsHIONs-QUAIET AND CURIOUS
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. DRESSES, ETC.
From Our Own Correspondent.
BONN, July Is, 1881.
There are only three great centers of Fashion,
London. Paris, and New York-or you may re-
verse the order and not be TAR out of the way.
Remove from these and Fashion seems to have
been left far behind and to belong to a world
with which the majority of human beings have
nothing to do.
In London the esthctic craze makes
new point OF departure. and lifts dress
out OF the region of the conventional
and the commonplace. Absurd as it seems
when carried to the extreme wide field as it
anords 1or grotesque caricature, and ridiculous
exaggeraton it still has its merits of originality
ana ollerentlatlOn from the usual rut. and more
tIan this: IL gives US with something
of the picturesque. more that is simple
ana sensible than we find elsewhere. The
stralght skirt. the belted waist the pulled
sleeve are uniform in London, but nowhere
eise' EiseWnere-on tine continent. that is to
say-the fashions (when there are any fashOns)
are those OF Paris and New York. EVERYWHERE
are the course straws. scoop-shaped bonnets.
trimmed with the twisted scarf and the bunch Of
roses; everywhere are the trimmed skirts with
uIupeu poionaises; the little capes and the huge
coiais' the oeaded trimmings and the cotton
embroidery; the Japanese figure upon red
ground, and the Spanish lace fichus with lunches
OF mowers upon the left of the corsage. Even
tne OLD town of Bonn reproduces in its every
shop window the lace pleated tie and knots
the costumes and mantles the ribbons and bon
nets that are to be seen in the business thorough
fares OF the city of New York
But FASHION seems here Of much less import
ance IMAM IN the city of London or New York
mere are things that take the lead of it even
among the women of the higher classes. while
Iof the lower 1t does not exist at all. Children
are OF enormous importance in Belgium and
germany, and their care occupies not only the
mother. but the entire family. especially the fe-
male part of it, Moreover, the Belgian and
NeriIian hon$trdu is pre-eminently the house
Wue, ana enough she is not averse to fine clothes
gives no time to them which ought by right
TO be devoted to husband and children. AS a
rule, she IS not a tasteful dresser. She
mas not the subtle instinct of the Partisan, or
the quick initiative faculty of the American. and
her thrift prevents her from cultvating pretty
house ways and daintinesses in her own proper
person. She is fond of wooden and wears it to
the verge of dinginess. But there are some no.
table exceptions, ladies whose fine bearing and
exquisite taste render them truly royal in APP
peaTance, though they are more apt to belong
TO the realm of art and literary culture than to
the German caste of We're de We're.
TOURISTS TOILETS
Perhaps the most singular extravagances and
eccentricties of costume are to be seen in cross
ing the British channel and in the constant con-
tact with the female tourist as she plunges in
and out OF churches and cathedrals or occupies
the cheap end of the boat-which is the best
point for seeing-after having paid for the dear
est, as it plOughs its way leisurely upthe Rhine.
| say female" deliberately. though do not like
md ric
stances seem to have changed their natures and
lost some of their first elements. They put on
hyprld garments. assume sort of registering air
(whch is the poorest sort of imitation of mascu-
line effrontery), and with the inevitable wooden
shaw, which is always carried over one shoulder
or in strap, and never put ON, is as recogniza-
bic as bundle of Cooks tickets
The elegant tourist is severely plain. Her
complete costume of navy blue cloth or flannel
is surmOunted by straw hat faced with black
velvet and trimmed with a broad twisted scarf
OF null, in which group Of blush roses is fas-
tened, and is further finished by the addition of
long undressed kid gloves. Her ulster is tailor
made. and a long gray gauze veil appears if de-
manded by an emergency.
The tailor made costumes of CLOTH of light
texture. but firm and durable, made by several
noted firms in London, are famous the world
over and are worn by ladies of the highest repu-
tation for taste and cultivation. Theskirts except
for habits, are always of walking length and
more or less Killed or very simply draped. the
upper part forming princess pOlOnaise or coat
basque with or without a cape. The hat is a felt
soft or a la Derby. Wherever these dresses are
seen they are badge of that distinction which
marks the lady of experience and cultivated per-
captions They are the least snowy of toilets. as
little so as those Ofmen, but they are of excel
lent material. good tit and cut. and neat strong
finish, their beauty being in their perfect fitness
and adaptability to their function.
But though of English design and special
English product, yet they are less seen upon the
persons OF English lady tourists than those who
come from America American women have a
wonderful intuition. for good thing and four
out of five of the well-otf class 60 straight to
Cobbs. or some other ladies' tailors on arrival
in London and get fitted out with cloth, tailor
made travelling suit, a hat and ulster: and find
the blessing OF dress that is not dropping apart
at every step or left in pieces at every stopping
place.
The 'lawn tennis costumes are utilized very
much by young English girls for travelling. and
they are very good if the Journeys are rot too
longs but though they are often seen on the
channel passage they seem hardly appropriate
on the score of warmth, as the lawn tennis dress
is more fanciful than protective. Such as it u.s.
and as it is seen in all the shops OF London. it
consists of an Old-fashoned ''pinafOre" over
dress. low-necked, and sleeveless, except for
ruffles around the arm holes. It may be of
print, checked gingham or foulard and has one
large pocket upon the front (foF holding the
balls), which in a travelling dress is placed upon
the inside and used for guide books and the
hke-whatever will lie fiat. A shirred bonnet
of the usual scoop shape is made to match the
Overdress. and the whole thing is worn over
plain undertakes of cotton or wool, to which is
sometimes added cape or mantle to match the
underdress: 1t is in reality protective apron
for out OF doors play. with a shade hat or bon
net of the same material; but it is put to many
uses, and is certainly an economical, as well as
pretty, idea. The most effective are red, with
small Japanese blue and olive figures over plain
dresses Of olive with pulled or small leg of NUT
ton sleeves, and drawn bonnet tied with olive
ribbon.
The eccentricities of tourists are mainly seen
in the style of the hat, an English firm having
introduced an early" English hat of soft felt
which, though intended especially for sports has
been adopted for travelling. The ''hatte" can be
thrown up in front or turned and twisted in
every way; and quantities of them. in white
(cream). peacock blue, red ecru and old gold
may be seen all over the continent. sometimes
making bit of striking color. sometimes tied
down with a gauze veil in such way as to make
''gipsey" hat of it-but always an odditv
when and wherever seen.
OF course the opportunity for the picturesque
is not lost upon the American lady traveller and
she seizes it, if young and pretty, with natural
xl1l,-