The Portland daily press., 1881-06-09
[Harpers Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Black grenadine remains standard choice
for Summer dresses, but this season the plain
sewing-silk grenadines with smooth surface
Will be chosen in preference to all others. The
trimming for this simple fabric is the richest
embroidery of silk on net in close patterns, and
this is combined with the snowy Spanish lace,
or the less decorative French laces, made in
excellent limitations of real thread lace. Fine
knife-pleatings of the smooth grenadine are
placed in many rows up the entire front of the
skirt. A breadth on each side is covered with
panels of the embroidery, made by placing two
straight edges together, and putting them
lengthwise on the skirt, then surrounding the
whole panel with pleated lace. The back dra-
perry of the grenadine is usually made of two
breadths very simply arranged, and long
enough to reach to the foot, where it meets
two narrow knife-pleatings like those on the
front OF the skirt. Bows chatelaines, and
large rosettes of ribbon, either of plain satin or
else richly watered, are on the side panels
The basque for such a dress usually has sur
plice vest of the embroidery, and the entire
sleeves may be of the transparent embroidery
or else of the grenadine, with turned-up flat
cuff of this garniture. The back of the BASQUE
has bows for ornament. Satin Surah of mex
pensive quality is used for the foundation of
such dress. When embroidery is omitted,
Spanish lace iounces are placed across the
front and side cores of the skirt, and the dra-
perry is narrowly confined at the back. For
very gay dresses for young ladies the terra-cot-
ia shades, olive, or yellow satin Surah, is used
for the entire foundation beneath the transpar-
ent grenadine and lace. When the dress is all
black, it is necessary to put scant flounce or
pleating of black crepe lisse under the lace
nounces to support them and also to bring out
the hgureS well. The silk square-meshed
grenadines so well liked for service are made
up IN similar styles, and also with plain self
trimmings Tor morning wear and more general
use. Three deep pleatings covering the back
breadth, with an amply draped apron and a
single pleating at the foot, make good design
Tor these canvas grenadines, or else the reverse
OF TINS is used, having two or three lengthwise
pleatings for the entire front, with two draped
6readths behind. A pretty basque for such
dresses has the front and sides cut off an inch
or Two below the waist line all around, until
the middle forms of the back are reached:
deep pleatlng (from two to three fingers deep)
then nils out the shortened parts and meets
the middle back forms, which are folded in
TWO great box pleats, or draped in handker-
chief points. or else have long scarf tied in a
sash bow upon them. When a gayer dress is
desired, steel or jet fringes and passementerie
are used for trimming these plain grenadines
but the tasteful choice this season is the heavy
embroidery and Spanish lace garniture.
When striped, blocked and brocaded erena-
dimes are used, those with satin foundations
are chosen, and many have the figures of plush
or velvet. These are made up over satin, but
as this makes them heavy, a skirt of twilled
Surah, or else OF the satin Surah is preferred
where lightness of weight is considered. Two
or three deep Surah pleatings each edged
with Spanish lace, make beautiful trimming
Tor the front and sides of such a skirt The
inquired grenadine is tnen draped on the back,
and is used for the basque.
Black and white striped silk is very popular
TINS season for the skirts of dresses, or rather
for their founces. Even stripes, each from
half an inch to an inch broad, are chosen in
satn-stripe gros grain, usually with the white
stripe OF satin, and the black of gros grain;
this is laid in pleats that have the black on |
top, and the white beneath is only accidentally
disclosed. Five deep plaitings Of this kind ap- |
pear to surround the entire skirt, but are only |
placed on the sides, where they are not COW
cred by the over-skirt, two of the aounces
alone passing around the foot. Such f1ounces |
are not fastened down as closely as they for |
merry were, being only held once, and that |
not stifny, by thread below the top where |
they are first sewed on. The oyer-skirt ia |
Topped high on one side-almost to the waist.
lndeed-has very ample draperies in front and |
BACK, forming point low on one side of the |
trent, and similar point behind. This over
sklrt is OF plain black satin Surah, and is
merely hemmed by blind stitches and not 9TH
erwlse trimmed unless jet ornaments or great
pins SNAPPED like hair-pins are used to hold up
the drapery. The basque is plain and round
That is, 1t is perfectly even on the hips, in
stead OF being shorter there than in the front
and back-and is cut away from the waist line
IN 'front.' The Byron collar and small cuffs
have thick jet embroidery upon them, and
there are small jet buttons for fastening the
front. This simple and stylish dress is we'll worn
with black rough straw poke trimmed with
shaded red plumes and is accompanied by
large red silk umbrella.
altered silk is also stylishly used for
trimming black silk or satin Surah dresses,
For instance, with a round black silk waist,
tne neck draping cuffs and sash are of watered
Six In stripes alternating with satin stripes.
around the neck, reaching to the waist on
each side of the 'front.' are three straight folds,
50 laid that the satin stripes are concealed, and
tne Watered stripes are on top. The sleeves
have similar folds at the wrist. The sash bow
at the back is of the striped material, cut in
half, made with two wide loops each half a
yard long, and two long ends; these are closely
Strapped and sewed to wide belt of three soft
waist
Red abounds in Summer toilettes, and is
shown in all materials. A French costume.
Just imported for Newport, is of cross-barred
oatiste In two or three shades of red, trimmed
with deep pleatings and draperies edged with
BLACK Breton lace. Another dress for yachting
Or the mountains or sea-shore, is dark garnet
wool as heavy as flannel, yet as fine as camel's
hair; this is made with a hunting jacket and
overskirt. and has many rows of soutache
braid OF the same shade for trimming Large
BOWS and sashes of dark red satin ribbon are
used with white costumes of various fabrics
such as nuns yelling, dotted muslin,s and
cream white batiste. Very pretty toilettes of
white wool have Spanish lace pleatings and
of Satin Snrah iy,c CTR - |
brilliant hues, or else in pale fade colors.