Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-03-04

Prom Or Osrp Co,TeqpOn1e-,t. !

NUAI W i.i4hdsr- 7 Is also often thin, gfO57y
and unbecomlng as glazed paper. I.ue darl
wool holds color and light ana shade better. II
has greater depth and sofrness: and some IA
expensive aaJfOns have a Iaodosty. grace and
freshness ShiCh may De credited 10 tho wear
ers, and are wonderfully cheap at the prIcs. IL
Is not long since silk dress was O rare acqu'-
SiOOn Tor the wives OF cOmpITatiVeI7 rfr1 men.
now every woman and every young girl must
not only have six dress but many VINO can
bot affori ~ must have several and have them
frequently replaced. also. at any cost and any
sacTince-msde by others: for the selfish ana
4nconsi fcTate are too apt 10 pGt the best things
10 the worst uses. and demand the oest long
Being.
at the present time there Is not the least ex-
cUSe for hU5 ing silk when II cannot DC Afforded
or when WOOL or cotton would do jI5t rs well.
The cotton manufactures for dress purposes
have teen gradually Improving for several
years past, or rather they have revived SOM
Of the 81 Is that were known long ago, before
silks beCaT 70 common as 10 drive thea for q
time from r1e market.
THIS sgu"g hey are daimler, pret.ier, more
varied AID more attractive thau ever. The
soft Sati,t- are fine aS silk and there Is a new
cotton ue istC7 10 which the name does great
injustice, I'r II Is not so slaZy as the linen
EatiSte. ana NIll not wear IS -FinyF a. d1es The
linen OF; Isle, unless II Is OF the very highest
grade, a. @ then IL Is too costly tOr m9jl~lty.
What = called cotton b4ii5te Is m1da ike
linen GTss1 lawns. IL IS ''sbc"r.T a ladies' say,
without icing dlaphOnoIS, AMI fine is We'll as
1Ym. II cmes In small, Charming designs
some Oid Z glish and some a mOii1catipn OF
the japan st some lovely patterns are In
shaded blue, and others IN very dun buff, with
EaiIutest i ayes and tiny brown berries on the
delicate q signs. They are OF Arnold & Con
stables Importation, to which house is con-
signed all Ot AnderSOn'5 famous Scotch zephyr
s-iDghaIns- The colOring5 OF these no climate or
washing can alter. They are perfectly fast
and so MAJ dSOme IN pattern and harmonious in
rOIorIDg o. 20 make summer walking dresses lit
for q Princes
Last ye the very large plai1s had vogue
In consG g.ruce OF the sudden Development Of
the handkerchief" dresses which the plaid
Vfngharne taSily represented. PlaidS OF eQor-
nous stripes have sold again tnis year. The more
recent pat show stripes IN varied cus lerS
OF lines some fine as hairs, and shaded from
stripes That are almost solid 70 distinct alter
mates. which form q very wide stripe Of a dit
ferent tCIt or color. The cOlOTS are grey pink
blue and brown: in different combinations, aud
there are also some that are very dark-yInp
checked WI n old gold; bottle blue and black
hut these dTe moderate pla!dS plain. Very new
rombina'ioIs are shown III Wlhe coiored Saline,
and a ne with w1ne-colOTtd ground we'll
covered ith q figure IN shaded daTodiS
the ColCT~ being different unts OF olive
Old blue a gold. The short Skirt trimmed
With plcl.,ugS or gathered n1uuceS is OF the
plain color. the pTinceSSe pOI0nal>o, purity open
and dTaped away from tue front, is OF the
figured fa''' &c and Is tpished with deep round
collar aud cuts OF the plain Saline. b0y1tred
with pale coffee cOIOTed lace. Some OF the fine
cOttons arr dotted aud have plain material to
match The ground; others are IN very small
ming material Is d0ttel also. The new TRIM
ming, OF best qualities. can be selected TO match
fabrics anC are equally fast 10 color. The col
oTed cotton eInbrOideTieS, for example, OF CaSn'S
manufacture wash and We4T With the goods
and are or a Uniform 1neHeSS OF texture that
corresponds exactly with the Anderson glng-
hams and me pretty, soft finished satines, per-
Gales, and ctTnOTicS. The trimmings need not
he draw ~ its gathering thread into rut-
fling, bUJ may be laid nat = preferred, aad
thus form = very pretty and durable embrOi
Md rFNr.,t A.1r-
fuIed IL CO.OT5 also, but tC cannot Ue relied
upon for Th, preservation OF is color AMI If Is
not OF uniform quality 50 that texture and pat
tern can Tag-ly Dc found TO SulI new a1f dne
rottOn fat III. and when IL Is. the price Is eX-
ceptioIaus Etgh-
THE SHORT DRESS
Is still In &c ascendant, aud It depends upon
women tl,...as-Ives to keep it so, or at least 50
well sust5.Uti and protected that any woman
ran wear g. without feeling herself To .narkaOIe
At present - short dress, as before remarked,
is In the as, ud4nt. The majority OF evening
dresses Gf six, satin and Or0c lde. worn By
young gi-Is- are cut short, ana Spri1g walking
and yisltin- dresses OF the richest material
clear the ground. so that they can be worn with
comparat4Ee comfort. Mike the modes OF
some tel Of ufieeuyearS ago, which ran into
all sorts O. crCeItriCitlCS and made those who
INDUCED f. II look like mOunteoaDE5. the style
Of to-day is, or may be, modest, sensible ana
conyenieIr. II Is not too short, and il is most
fashionable wien IL is simple and free from
overlOaGiJE. can We not Keep IT, that is in IL
essentials. There ought 10 be women enough
now OF thought and intelligence TO adhere TO 8
single idea which is undenia oily goOd.-6yer
essential % health, economy and cle5tnlineSS-
and which offers no restriction. except where
restriction Is necessary TO save waste, AM the
attributes becoming every constellation:
women.
one OF the short dresses made recently for
brides Ou1 TT Was or the richest vine COlOreC
velvet, aTO consisted or a snTTed and f1O1uce(
skirt d pTluCease pOlOnaiSe. and street jaczei
lined WITH silk 70 match. PoioIai5e aud jlcke:
were uItrimmed, except with exquisite button:
nf carved sn0ss agate and Tufiie and Jab0t o
Mechlin lace, he iiD0t FOR the Jacket forming
she'll ike ends but that for the p0lOn alSe reach
Ing TO the waist. Another short dress for TAI
same trouSSSau was composed wholly OF satiI
OF the new blue green shade known as duck:
breast" IL consisted OF a trimmed skirt
basque anu small Mother Hubbard" mantle
the latter gathered at the throat, but drawn fl
at the waist, where the fronts were confined bl
broad belt The skirt IN front was mass O
Shtrr1ngs and small straight p1ffS and ruff e
The basque was modified cu1raSs sloped up a
the sides, AID with afan-shape at tue back
and the rich trimming OF knottet silk and che
nile fringe, with deep Melted beading upon th
mantle, exactly matched the shade or the satin
Another dress for more serviceabIe wear wa
OF dark brown zephyr tweed. IL consisted o
WalktDg-skIT pOl0natSe, and cape with hood Thu
skirt was trimmed with single n0unce mad
In clusters OF fine pleats spaced between 70
about half the distance occupied by the pIeate
The polOnaise formed hollow pIaits below th
waist, which gave It the requisite fuIlness, AM
was giTded l15t below the lice OF the waist win
heavy cord and y SSelS. The cape was strafgh
and lined With silk; The hood wish dark brow
satin. The tone was dark brown throughout
which Is much more elegant for outdoor cos
tunes than a striking contrast.
HOODS
1t is not necessary TO say that In this countr
We run everything into the ground. An Ide
that one obtains admission is used I'd In 81
many different ways that it is not SURPRISING /
not even is ghost IS left IN time TO yitnps{ 4
Inc lact OF It's existence. Hoods nave eDterr
upon this Ollef and undesirable season of Do-u
1arfty. The original Idea OF a hood was thar :
should D. put TO use. IC was attached IN IN
round gfpSey cloak 10 serve when ra1utrad IN
3 covering tor the head. or course fhiS IA ON
or the question now -a-dayS. So the funr.Io,
OF the hood having departed. IT is only rptalne
as an ornamental accessory. OF the rom,
cloak IL Sill seems necessary part and If i
Lot an VI becoming addition TO other c,arUoaats
jackets ard capeS, ir the material Is nor :,
thlck as 70 &c clumsy ana the articles are IN
street Wear. Bur do lot put moods on i4elat =
ana uISleiS. and cioakS, and capeS and eyer,
street garment IL your possession: aud ab1y.
al IhlnSS, 90 lot put them on your cashTop-,
morning gowns or your handsome doImar
CLOAK IL both these latter cases they are -,
tlTely out Ot place. and show poverty or Iaaa
IS We'll as ignorance OF what IS Citing
The jacket with hood is one OF IGa ready
made garments, and when the hood Is unO1ar
ate In size. Tat. and lined with dark raw siIl
or satin showing no violent contrasts OF color
IL looks extremely we'll upon slender vount
women. But later and more exclusive styIt