Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-01-15
TAILOK.MADE MEN.
How Natures Crooked Ways are
Sometimes Made Straight by Sar.
fOFiAI Art.

TAILOK.NADE MEN.
How Natures Crooked Ways are
sometimes Made straight by Snr.
tOrial Art.
The fact Is that there are very few men
who are formed regularly. What professional
cutter would cali regular proportion is
measurement OF SO inches TO the breast ana So
inches to the waist But those measurements
are seldom met with" This was said TO a .Su,,
reporter In reply TO inquiries as to the shapes
that are encountered by tailorS who make Gus
tom clothing. Experienced cutters say that
they are obliged 10 make allowance for peculiar
forms In almost every case. Many men have
enc shoulder higher than the other. This is
particularly the case with those WHO do much
writing. The right arm is ofteneSt kept con
tinuaily OF the desk, while the left arm &. rested
aid lowered. Naturally, IN such cases, a mans
right shoulder Is raised ana his left shoulder
depressed. To remedy this slight defornity
the expert cutter must resort to padding.
Talk about padding" said an old cutter,
women. Put your hand on the shoulder of the
first InaD you meet; you will find proba ply that
instead OF a bony shoulder blade you VIII feel a
soft cushion. Watch the men walk NC OF
Broadway. You viii notice that many of them
swing their arms under caves OF padding. Look
at TIE padding IN the breasts OF coats and vests
A tailor fln0s man 'caVed in AID has TO build
him out. That Is the reason SO many high
vests are worn. low vest would expose the
fat. pitched chest
How about the iegs?'
lectfons Of mans legs is unworthy OF his pro-
fe. sion. II n.an is handy legged, Tie cutter
VIII make him wide AMI roomy paEtalcOnS iD
which bis crooked limbs may wander without
cefectlcD. IL he Is short legged. the cutter
VIII lit him snugly, SO that his neither extreini-
ties shall not Offend the eye. III he is long
RsgeG. the cutter ADDS little to the length OF
Ills body and brings him apparently into pro-
portion. 1t Is very common occurrence Tor a
mans tight leg to be little longer than his
LEFT. O:ten one arm is little longer than the
oiher. Wy often mans occupation gives
him st0opD position, SO that he seems a.
most humpbacked. TIE expert cutter attends
TO all these pecullartties and sees to IL that they
are as far as possible concealed"
do you think that men are as particular
abour their dress as women"
When they care at all they are more fast.dl-
Gus. The trouble With men IS that they do not
always Know what they want Women are more
they make STUDY OF dlesS They think or it
from Childhood. They see something they Ike
and say, Make 1t Ike that They know how
goods wlll look when made up. But many men
areunreaSonahly fastidious. One thinks he has
full Dreaoss. When you measure him lie pulls
and swell5 cut to Undue proportions. When
the coat IS finished aud ne tries IL on he says I;
don't 1T, when the real trouble Is that he does
not swell himself ouE as he did when he was
measured. Ii a man is punctiltous ABOUT q very
neat Close fit. the chances are that he will COM
plain that his clothes are too tight when he
tries them On. Then the man VINO says he
wants them easy and is not particular about
the Mt is to De reared. When he gets his clothes
home his wife or his sisters or his fellow DO ard
vii sGrnfin!ze hts .. ...,.,, nnd send hin
back to The u...~ c'f''nate tailor"
do you find tina, men are much Influenced
their clothes?''
Influenced: Why, cir, It amounts to slavery
ID many cases have bad men make me cou-
They come here filled with Instructions. Thay
have orders for the style OF cloth, the style OF
cut. the sty lie Of buttons. the lining trimmings.
ana price. When cut coat for married man
know that. In most cases, have got 10 please
the wife. Frequently man goes away per-
fectiy satisfied with garment aud comes back
d next day running over with complaints.
sometimes When l know there is nothing
wrong, put the garment away In q Closet.
never touch IL, and when send IL back In few
days IT. is pronounced very much better and all
right" ''-'
The military tailors are the greatest adopts
70 Gullcfng up unpromising forms to become
m S OF soldierly appearance. They Will take
a lean, scrawny, consumptfve clerk and turn
him out In uniform that makes him quite a
formidable as well as progressing person,
WITH skii!ful appropriation OF haircioth bag
glng ana batting, they manage to manufacture
Well-rouIded forms In almost every case AS
Tor the theatrical taiiors. their work is often a
marvel OF art. Actors with natural grace I'll.
cess OF form nave sometimes served as walking
advertisements OF fashionable taiiorS. Actors
whose line OF characters eguires many Changes
OF fashionable dress are frequently asked 70
Introduce some new styles.
"What does it cost to dress a man tn the
height OF fashion," was asked OF : Fifth avenue
tailor.
about soc year" was the reply. "But If
a man Is TO indulge In $500 fur coats and q
variety OF fine SILK Geckties and an assortment
OF fancy rdltaloons his bills will run up much
higher Notwithstanding all that Is said OF tae
extravaganza OF wolDan'S dress, 1t costs quite
as much TO furnish stylish clothes to men as 10
women. The reason is that a Elan cannot have
his clothes made over as woman can. IL his
clothes get out OF fashion they are useless 10
him. But the clothing OF women can be made
over to suit new fashions year after year. Their
laceS and ribbons, feathers and trimming of
all kinds, reappear constantly In new forms. IL
wGman has splendid wedding dress for in-
stance, she keeps is for years and wears it on
state occasions. But mans wedding suit
must be worn out before it goes out OF fashion.
Among the poorer classes the women always
dress better than the men ia the same station ia
life. They VIII seize upon fashionable style
AID make up Old materials in the new shapes
with marvellous aptitude. Men do nothing OF
this kind, and that Is the reason why, az a rule
they do not follow the fashions as scrupulously
as WOmen."-N p. Sam.