The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1881-11-10
FOR THE LADIES.
CInfh CnafnInnn.


for street costumes this winter. 1t is
worn in all its varieties, such as the
smooth habit cloth called Amazon or
lady's cloth, the tricot, which is in
small figures like armure, and the
rough-finished Cheviots like those worn
by gentlemen. The simple and stylish
cloth suits made by tailor, are per-
haps most in favor, though there are
many imported costumes of cloth that
are for more showy. The tailor-made
suits rely upon their fine fit for their
beauty, as they have no trimmings but
the usual rows of machine stitching,
and some plating on the bottom of
he skirt; later in the winter border
OF fur will be placed around the skirt,
and separate collar and cuffs of fur
will be added to the coat For slen-
der ladies the basques of such dresses
are made double breasted, with a
single box-plait closely stitched
down each front, and one double
box plait in the back. A slit is left
open each side of the back, between the
middle forms and side forms. A wide
stitched belt is strapped on the side
seams; there is slit for breast pocket,
and side pockets also; the collar is By
ron shape, and the cuffs are square. If
the basque is intended for full figure
the plaits are omitted, AMI it is SIM
pie position basque, single or double
breasted, straight around or shorter on
the hips, as best suits the wearer's taste
The skirt is cut off about the knee and
box plating is added to finish out the
length, or else the skirt is entirely plain,
with several rows of stitching near the
foot, and this is afterward trimmed with
border of fur. The overskirt is draped
permanently on the lower shirt, being
sewed in the same belt. This may be
the ordinary round apron, or it may be
pointed low on one side. The bouffant
appearance given many new dresses is
not congruous with these suits, and
tailors say with pleasure that bustles can
not be worn with the costumes they make
as the heavy fabric will weight them
down. For very young ladies the newest
cloth basque is very short, being only
three inches below the waist, and This
often separate piece sewed to a
round waist and curved in the front be-
low the waist line. For the street q
coat of cloth may be added, and warm
1y lined. This may be gle.breasted,
but is most often double breasted, and
is of medium length, with two box
plaits behind. The cloths imported
by tailors are of excellent quality, and
cost usually $5 yard. Eight yards IS
the average quantity required for suit
from $75 to $125; with the lowest
priced suits there is no extra coat for
the street. Tailors protest against the
use of braid and frogs on cloth Co.'S
tunes, but ladies who have their own
fancies carried out insist upon having
these additions in the way of trimming.
The thick tubular braid about fourth
of an inch wide is put around the skirt
and overskirt in parallel rows, and the
basque has trefoil trimming of braid
across the bust, on the cuffs, the cor
ners of the Byron collar, and on the
middle forms of the back.
Imported cloth costumes are more
elaborately draped and trimmed than
the stylishly.severe suits made to Or
der. Plush is the trimming most used
upon these, and this is usually of
contrasting color, and the polonaise is
the favorite overdress for such suits.
A long, simply y-shaped polonaise of
myrtle or bronze green cloth has
double-breasted fronts fastened diago-
nally by bronze or old silver buttons,
and the cellar and cuffs are of ombre-
striped plush shading from ecru to
green, or else brocaded plush in leaf
pattern is used in dark-red shades, or
perhaps green shades. The skirt i
then quite plain, with two great box
plaits behind, cluster of side-plaits
down the middle of the front, and
wide border at the foot of the plush
trimming. The leopard spotted plush
is also liked for trimming dark brown,
tan-colored and ecru plush suits for
young ladies; these youthful looking
dlesses have a little pelerine cape of
the plush, also muff, and sometimes
turban. The London suits of cloth
have braiding upon them in designs
rather too elaborate to suit fastidious
tastes, and sometimes cloths of two
shades are used in the same costume,
the darker shade forming the principal
part of the costume, and stitched bands,
plaitings, collar, cuffs and pockets, an
swering for trimming, are made of the
lighter shade. Blocks, stripes and
small checks of Oheviots are chosen BY
young ladies for their cloth suits, and
in these the Prusslan blue shades are
very fashionable, also the copper reds,
seal brown trimmed with green, or the
opposite of this green cloth with
brown plush accessories-and finally
the mustard and olive shades of Cheviot
with DARK garnet plush, or else sapphire
blue or myrtle green.