The Portland daily press., 1881-07-01

IN. Y. Post.l
An article on frauds in iewelrv lately
published lately having attracted consid-
cradle attention, a gentleman thoroughly
familiar with the trade was applied to yes
terday for some further information on the
subject. He said that the frauds in watch case
making, caused by excessive competition had
now become so general that prices had been
"cut to an extent extremely damaging to all
honest manufacturers. The jobbers were prim-
arily responsible for the evil, those in Chicago
having been the pioneers in this class Of swind-
ling, which was now confined to no city. They
would demand that case makers should furnish
them with cases only twelve or fourteen carats
fine, but stamped eighteen carats Many small
manufacturers would yield to this temptation
rather than lose trade, and from this begin
ming they were readily led ON to make ten-car-
at cases, falsely stamped, and to introduce base
metal in various parts of the case. Many of
these so-called gold watches were not stamped
at all with any mark of quality, and the sellers
could not be legally responsible for swindling,
as gold was the component part of chief value
Yet large numbers of watches were sodsas gold
which contained a greater weight-of steel and
brass A very thick steel spring, weighing
twelve or fourteen pennyweights, was inserted
in the rim, technically known as the CENTRE
of the watch, the crown and shank Of the stem
were followed out and filed with brass, and a
brass wire was run through the ring by which
the watch was attached to the chain. In fact
many cases were cut wherever grain of gold
could be saved, and steel or brass was inserted.
The leading watch manufacturers of this
city, this gentleman said, had recently formed
combination to protect themselves against
this dishonest competition in the only way pos
SHELBY agreeing to subject themselves to
heavy loss for time by reducing the rates of
genuine cases to those which were charged for
the articles known as Skin cases." In order
to do this they were obliged to sell the cases at
a less increase on the value of the gold than the
actual cost OF workmanship, hoping thereby to
break down the fraudulent rivalry which had
been growing steadily for the last few years,
until now it seemed to have reached its culmi-
nation.
In addition to the alleged gold watches
which had been described, he said that quanti-
ties of "fled" watches were made, many of
which were undoubtedly sold as genuine arti-
Giles. Such watch case was manufactured of
very thin layers of gold, with layer of base
metal between. the whole being ''sweated" j
together. Really it was simply gilt watch.
but 1t would last for ten years before the sur
lace was worn through and was innocent
enough when sold for what it was. In the
hands OF INSCRIPTIONS dealers, however, it was
very dangerous. An expert could readily
detect its character by the color and weight, as
well as by the use of acids, but with any ordi-
nary custamer it would easily pass for gold.
such watch case, worth some S23, would in
genuine gold be worth $50 or $40.
As there was no hope of getting any legsla-
ton in this country which would guard against
the preparation of the frauds in question, this
gentleman declared that only one way re-
manned for the public to protect itself in the
matter. This twas, for every purchaser of a
gold watch to demand a written certificate |
from the manufacturer that the case was .sof |
solid eighteen-carat gold throughout" When |
private customers generally insisted upon such |
certificates, the retail dealers and jobbers |
would require them from the Makers who |
would, of course, be held legally responsible |
for the correctness of the guaranty.
He said that frauds similar to those practised |
in watch cases ran through every line of Jewell |
~ and gold work. The standard fneness of |
watchchalns was in this country fourteen car
ats, being two carats less than in England, as |
the lower grade was harder and wore better. |
Yet 1t was now extremely difficult to find |
genuine fourteen-carat chain in this market, |
nearly all the chains sold as such not assaying
more than twelve carats. Frequently the |
swivels of the chains were stamped fourteen |
carats, thereby leading to the false belief that
the chains were of the same fineness He re-
GREETED to say that such chains were manufac-
tured and sold even by firms of good reputa-
ton, and that retailers, who bought them from
Jobbers, were often deceived as well as their
customers. In this matter, as in regard to
watch cases, the exaction of an explicit writ
ten guaranty was the only method of protect
ing the purchaser. gifted" and plated chains
Were usually sold upon their merits and chief
1y in the ruder parts of the country.
Thousands of wedding rings, he said were
annually manufactured, filled with brass
wire run through the centre of the crclet, and
stamped with device resembling an 1S-carat
quarterly mark, though in reality it signifed
nothing. There was no doubt that these were
sold as gold and many of them at but little
less than the legitimate price of gold. In the
manufacture of fancy gold neck-chans for
ladies' wear, it was necessary that the links
should be made hollow in order to give them
the proper degree of elasticity. Hence they
were spun over copper wire, which was after
ward, by honest makers, entirely destroyed by
the use of strong acid. 1t was now common
practice, however, to use a solution of acid
which crumbled away only parts of the wire
the weight of the chain. Probably nine-tenths
of the hollow-linked chains, which were sold
to dealers BY weight, contained more or less of
this copper filing. Cameo rings of unadulter-
aecu gnu were rareiy ootalneu Dy purchasers, |
the practice being to run brass wire through
the shank" or circlet, and frequently to in
sert thick piece of brass at the back of the
stone, beneath thin gold layer. Sleeve but
tons, sold as gold, were also frequently backed
with brass, or were of silver with gold We
neer.
He mentioned one noted jewelry firm in
this city, who, always closely watching the
character and prices of the goods supplied
to them, had samples of the articles assayed
pio |
of their quality. If the slightest fraud was
discovered, the goods were promptly returned
to the master, and his relations with the firm
were permanently ended. The only safety for
the public, apart from written guaranties,w was
the practice of dealing with firms of establish
ed high reputation, aud consenting to pay the
value of the articles desired. Buyers had
been led to believe that they could get a gold
dollars worth for ffty-five cents, and the
sooner they relinquish that delusion the better
it would be for them and for honest trade.