Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1881-02-03
TAIL0R-MADE MEN.

now NATURES CROOKED WAYS ARE SOME.
TINES MADE STRAIGHT ny sARToRIAL ART.
From the New York sun.
THE fact is there are very few men
who are formed regularly. What a
professional cutter would call 'regu-
lar proportion Is measurement of
thirty-six inches to the breast and
thirty-thrce inches to the waist. But
those measurements are seldom met
with" This was said to Sun report
er in reply to inquiries as to the shapes
that are encountered by tailors who
make custom clothing. Experienced
cutters say that they are obliged to
make allowance for peculiar forms in
almost every case. Many men have
one shoulder higher than the other
This is particularly The case with those
who do much writing. The right arm
is kept continually on the desk, while
the left arm is rested and lowered.
Naturally, in such cases, mans right
shoulder is raised and his left shoulder
depressed. To remedy this slight de.
formity the expert cutter must resort
to padding.
Talk about padding" said an old
cutter, "the men are really padded a
much as the women. Put your hand
on the shoulder of the first man YOU
meet; you will find probably that, in.
stead of bony shoulder.blade YOU
will feel a soft cushion. Watch the
men walking on Broadway. You will
notice that many of them swing their
arms under caves of padding. Look
at the padding in the breasts of coats
and vests. A tailor finds man 'caved
in and has to build him out That is
the reason so many high vests are
worn. A low vest would expose the
fiat, pinched chest"
"How about the legs"
"The cutter who cannot conceal the
imperfections of mans legs is un
worthy of his profession. If man
is bandy.legged the cutter will make
him wide and roomy pantaloons, in
which his crooked limbs may wander
without detection. If he is short-leg.
ged the cutter will fit him snugly, So
that his neither extremities shall not
offend the eye. If he is long-legged
the cutter adds little to the length OF
his body and brings him apparently
into proportion. 1t is very common
occurrence for mans right leg to he
little longer than the other. Very
often a mans occupation gives him
STOPPING position, SO that he seems al
most humphacked. The expert cutter
attends to all these peculiarities, and
sees to it that they are, rs far as pos
sible, concealed"
"Do you think that men are as par.
ticular about their dress as women ?"
"When they care at all they are
more fastidious. The trouble with
men is that they do not always know
what they want. Women are more
apt to know exactly what they want.
because they make study of dress.
They think of it from childhood.
They see something they like and say,
Make it like that They know how
goods will look when made up. But
many men are unreasonably fastidious.
One thinks he has full breast When
you measure him he pufs and swells
out to undue proportions. When the
coat is finished aud he tries it OH he
says it don't fit, when the real trouble
is that he does not swell himself out as
he did when he was measured. If
man is punctilious about a very neat,
close fit, the chances are that he will
complain that his clothes are too tight
when he tries them on. Then the man
who says he wants them easy and is
not particular about the fit Is to be
] feared. When he gets his clothes bis