Sacramento daily record-union., 1881-06-20
THE FASHIONS.
WHAT IT Is DEEMED FASHIONABLE TO
WEAR NOWADAYS.
The Ladies' Robes. How They are Made,
What of, and how ornamsnted
This Summer.

What of, and how ornamsnted
This Summer.
A very large Alsacian bow of dark red |
plush, held by a gilt ornament, is worn in
the hair with morning toilets.
Throat bows of satin Surah of pale blue,
rose, or lemon color are trimmed with
Spanish lace dyed the color of the Surah.
ocket-handkerchiefs for day use have
narrow hem of porcelain blue or of dark
red, and sometimes the entire center is in
small blocks Of ecru with white.
Ecru lace mitts, and dark tan.colored
mitts in the closely woven silk MAJ ,,uerite
patterns, are stylishly worn with black
dresses and those of very dark color.
The scarfs of colored Surah for the neck
have square ends of white or of ecru ver-
micelll lace, embroidered in gay silks in
pretty designs of baskets holding flowers,
butterflies, and birds nests.
Shirred waists with belts, shirred fronts
with puff below and two deep pleatings
put on in curves, and some simple back
drapery, or else full straight back breadths,
will be stylish and pretty for wash dresses.
A pendent pocket of white satin and
Spanish lace is hung by ivory white rib.
bons to the belt to be worn with evening
dresses. A gold brooch holds the lace to-
gether in the front, and cluster of natu-
raj flowers is thrust in it, or is fastened on
the outside.
Black Spanish lace fans of circular shape
are made up over stiff foundation that is
pleated in the center, and fastened to
thick handle wrapped with ribbons. "A
bunch tof natural flowers is the prettiest
trimming for such fan, though they are
usually provided with artificial clusters of
Marshal Neil roses or dark Jacqueminot
buds. They cost from IS upward.
A novelty on imported dresses is the use
of large pins of gilt or oxidized silver,
shaped like huge hair-pins, for securing
the drapery of woolen dresses, such as
dark blue nuns yelling or porcelain blue
camel's-hair. Smaller pine, shaped like
nail heads hattened, are then thrust into
the scarf drapery on the wrists OF the
sleeves, in the belt, and are also used to
close the front OF the dress like buttons.
The Medicis puff for the neck is newer
than the ruff. 1t is made of bias null
shirred through the middle to form a full
puff each side of the gathering, and these
puffs are worn high and close about the
throat, or else pointed low en- supl;ce. a
ruff1e of lace may be placed below the
lower puff, but the upper puff rests against
the neck without lace. Two soft puffs,
each turned toward the hand, are placed
inside the dress sleeves. A long-looped
bow OF ivory white satin ribbon fastens the
puffs at the neck.
The Chine figured satin Surahs are also
very beautiful for full. dress toilettes.
With ground of cream white, the figures
in pale blue and rose, with green foliage,
look like chenille embroidery, or like hand
painting These are for basques and
trains with shirred petticoat fronts of plain
white Surgh, or else of ombre shades like
the green foliage or the pink of the rose in
the figured part. Valenciennes lace in
stripes forms the sleeves of such dresses,
and the front of the basque is cut square,
and has stomacher of the lace. A bow
or slight drapery OF the ombre Sprah is on
each sleeve and on the corsage in front and
behind.
The Bengaline or Victoria silks, repped
like Sicilienne, and as soft as Surah, are
lovely fabrics for summer evening dresses.
They come in white and the palest tints,
and are most effectively trimmed with
white laces, especially the new Valen-
ciennes with plsin meshes and simple
feathery edge. a lemon-colored Bengaline
dress has the waist deeply pointed in the
neck behind and before, and the wide
Valenciennes gathered very full in the edge
of the neck to fall about on it carelessly.
The sleeves are of alternate lengthwise in-
sertions of Valenciennes and bias bands OF
the sBengaline. With such waist, the
skirt will be of the silk nearly covered
with plea.ings of the lace put around in
rows.
Some of the prettiest dresses for summer
evening are made of the twiiled Surahs in
light shades of blue, rose or lemon color.
trimmed with Spanish laces dyed the color
OF the Surah. The pleated tlounces that
half cover the short skirts are widely edged
with this Spanish lace, and sometimes the
large dotted Spanish net of the same color
is draped at the top for an overskirt, and
forms the transparent sleeves. In other
dresses the corsage is of the Surah, shirred
in many rows quite high about the neck
like deep collar, or else it is pointed i'll
surplice fashion quite low, and finished
with shell jabot of the lace. A soft belt
folded very wide, with large sash bow at
tue back, is placed around the waist, and
has ends that fall almost to the edge of
the skirt. Similar dresses for quiet
occasions made of black satin Surah,
trimmed with black Spanish lace
and sash of black watered ribbon,
or else striped wa. ID silk cut in two in
the middle of the breadth. Black and
striped satin founces covering an entire
skirt are also worn with basque and over
dress of black Spanish net, edged with
black Spanish lace laid over white lace.
A white Spanish lace polonaise abundantly
trimmed with lace and white moire ribbon
bows is beautiful over-dress to wear with
white skirts of satin Surah, white moire,
sh0t skirts, and are entirely white they
are worn at day receptions with Panama
bonnets or round hats that may have color
ed plnmes, and colored velvet pleated in
the brim, but are also seen with white
Spanish lace scarf.mantles, the only color
in the whole toilette being given by the
large bouquet of natural flowers in the
corsage.
Instead of frills at the wrists and neck
of dresses, they are sometimes finished
with puff of the Surah used for trimming.
To make this puff fluffy and soft.looking,
it is first pleated, then doubled, and the
pleating is pulled out in the middle of the
puff. a single wide ruche at the foot is a
favorite trimming for the skirts of simple
dresses. This ruche is five or six inches
wide, and is laid in treble or quadruple
box pleats, folded very deeply, and each
cluster of pleats placed an inch away from
that next it. 1t is then stitched in the
middle, and the edges are allowed to fall
forward and almost meet. Many collars
sewed around the neck of dresses are now
wired; this is true of dresses that are
high about the throat. as well as of those
opening low on the bust. For instance,
high.necked dress of cashmere, trim.
med with watered silk, will have stand |
ing collar two and half inches high be-
hind and curved to the front. A wire is |
placed inside the collar at its upper edge, |
and the collar is then rolled over TO turn
down half its depth in the back. This is
very neat fashion when two materials a.
,.oJ {ha COLLAR ct,cb ne achp,o-a ~, ~ 4,