Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-10-01

/ must admit that my own first impression in
regard to the divided skirt costume was one of
prejudice against 1t. 1t seemed to SAVIOR too
much Of BloOmerism even to become popular,
was apparently too intricate for the ordinary
apprehension, and therefore added to the COM
piications Of the dress question instead Of SYM
purifying them. But better acquaintance with
tne subject has greatly modified this view. do
not suppose the Rational dress will commend
itself TO irrational people, or to those who con-
sider the whole question Of dress as quite out OF
the pale or common sense. and one to be judged
entirely by the light Of incoming and outgoing
fashion; but it Is worth the attention of those
who need practical walking or working dress,
ana especially Of young women and girls who
want sensible college and school dress IN which
they can work, walk, row, dig, climb, play lawn.
tennis, ride tricycle. and be decent. No girl
bustles and the ordinary dress without sacri-
nee OF modesty as well as refinement and natural
grace.
NEEDED PROTEST.
Apart from conflicting opinion in regard to the
Rational dress, it seems pity that the actual
and primary intention of the society should have
been Intentionally or unintentionally on the part
OF its opponents retired into the background,
and the most radical side Of an innovation.
which was introduced more or less as an expert
ment, brought to the front. 1t is quite time
that an open, fearless and persistent protest was
made against any attempt to revive or perpetu-
ate manifest indecencies, vulgarities and injurl-
Gus fashions in dress, and q widespread opinion
exists both in this country and England, which
could be found formidably strong If unhampered
by revolutionary ideas. An attempt will shortly
be made to obtain an expression from the intel
llgent women of America in regard to two
points relating to dress upon which there ought
not to be two opinions. and which ought at once
to receive the united condemnation of all pure
minded and honest women. One is the revival
OF the hustle; the other the attempt to natural
ize here the low neck for "full'' Dress
The creator Of this revival Of the ''Crino-
lette' are men whose simple idea is
ago; they lost money by the subsistence of the
hOOp vogue; they have ever since Deen trying to
start the fashion again by having authoritative
paragraphs written to impose upon the ignorant,
ana by inducing corset and other shops to keep
their wares On exhibition. This autumn q de-
cisive step was felt to be necessary, and the en-
tire ignorance Of its originators of any advance
Ii the minds or thought of women is exhibited
plainly in the new article by which it is proposed
to improve" the general outline of a wonlan's
form. 1t, In effect, creates two humps one on
each hip, la Marie Antoinette, and the walk
which accompanies this singular manifestation
OF physical perfection is the fac simile of the half
jerk, half waddle, of double panniered and
overloaded donkey. This is what it suggests,
and the statement is not intended as an exagger-
alton or the mere forcing of grotesque COM
parlson. 1t Is simply to show how far removed
the ideas OF these people are who endeavOr
70 folst these things upon the public from
any common, not to say artistic sense and how
nLCle credlt they give to women for the exercise
OF reason where dress is concerned. A feeble
hope is expressed in some fashionable quarters
that bustles will not again attain the measure
of absurdity that called down upon them before
such a storm of ridicule; yet the very beginning
is almost worse than the previous ending, and
shows plainly enough that only very little
encouragement is needed to induce manu.
facturers. at least, to 60 any lengths or
breadths. At present the hustle has made very
little Roadway. 1t is not found in the best shops
nor among the best classes. and it is easy to
prevent it from obtaining foothold, but it
ought to be done in a thorough and unms-
taxable manner. Intelligent women everywhere
should refuse to cOuntenance such attempts at
distortion and deformity, and give manufac-
turers and dealers to understand that a fashion
can only exist by the consent of majority, and
that they refuse their consent to that which has
10 excuse in art, sense or taste for existence.
THE GREAT MOTHER.
In the play of "Cup," as produced by Mr.
Irving at the Lyceum theater, in London. one of
the scenes gives the interior Of temple dedicated
to the service of a goddess, the Great Mother.
represented by the colossal figure of a grand.
many -bosOmed woman, with little children of
all types in her wide arms. This is at first
shock to the ultra modesty of some who can
look upon half-dressed woman in a ballroom
without the slightest disturbance. The yaison
detre in one instance is visible, in the Otherit is
not. 1t is considered vulgar for q woman to
nurse her baby III public and if compelled to do
SO by stress OF circumstances the modest woman
conceals the fountain from which the infant
draws its sustenance as completely as possible;
yetthsis natural and beautiful provision for the
supply OF animperatfve want and has been made
the theme of poet and artist, while for such an
"a inn mo- In To 81
iibertines and men and women who are
strangers. and who only look to jeer or blush
for one who has not the grace to blush for her.
self there is no excuse, no possibility of motive,
save vanity so Overpowering as to kill
mOdesty.
Some may plead thoughtlessness, but If the
public opinion among women expresses itself as
1t ought this cannot long be considered rea-
son for Ontraging the finer sense Of those women
who have thought upon the subject Why should
women expose their necks and arms to the
shoulder any more than men? Why should it
De considered any more decent. any less vulgar.
Yet, Imagine man presenting himself in such
guise in any assemblage! Is 1t because women
have more flesh to show than men, or because
they imagine it enhances their attractions and
let it be understood for what it is: let it be a
badge, an insignia, note of warning to some,
an evidence to all that the sacrifice is made upon
the altar OF vanity which leaves no room for
refinement or delicacy, and not upon that of
fashion.
ENGLISH WOODEN MANUFACTURES.
As well attempt to oppose the natural current
of stream as the strong tide of public opinion
when it has set in certain direction. and the
general ignorance in regard to the extent of
social influence has found no better exemplifi-
cation OF late than in the well-intentioned effort
Of an English lady Of rank. the Countess of
Beehive, to make ALPACA fashionable" Alapaca
and the stiff wOrsted serges received their sen
tence ten years or more ago, when cashmere,
camels hair, and the soft wooden goods of
French manufacture came to the 'front.' Ameri-
can aspirants for prominence in the manufac-
ture OF wooden dress goods took the front and
to-day as fine cames hair cloths and other softly
draping woolens are turned out of native mills
as can be obtained abr0ad-almOst, at least, as
good for popular use and wear.
But the British manufacturer, or at least the
British workman, could not unlearn his tradi-
TONS There are plenty of cases on record in
which the manufactures, with his larger expert
ence and clearer insight. attempted to Introduce
new machinery and train his work-people to
meet new demands, but they wouid not be
trained, they would not be taught, they would
not stand any innovation, they would go ON in
the oio way or not at all; and their ignOrance
and stupidity left them stranded while the advan.
eng TIDE carried ships ont to sea freighted with