Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-04-01
ESTABLISHED 1850.

satIns embroidered with large shaped tulips
and roses which look like life. There are
white watered silks outlined with gold en-
| broldery and primrose brocades with veining
| OF pearls upon satin.
The new plain silks and satins are suggestive
OF all the flowers OF the spring and all the
| fruits of the summer There IS strawberrv
satin embroidered with shades Of olive and
| yellow on mignonette pattern, and shades of
peach blossoms which are exquisitely lovely.
! and which have buttons made for them Of
! enamel, inlald with fine, pure gold.
There are delicate hand-embroidered mus
\ nns, which are considered cheap at nine dol
| lars per yard, and are made over strawberry
| link, or pale blue satin with needle work ruff
fling, and satin belts and pockets to match
a. dark olive satin costume for Easter Is
made short, with small cone shaped puffs Of
strawberry satin set in at intervals on the top
4 OF the sleeves. A square vest and cuffs of
\ strawberry satin show narro " embroidery la
olive shades in the migRonette patterns. The
| hat was strawberry satin crown, with wreath
| or mignonette around the brim.
There are many small patterns In brocaded
/ silks this season which are very pretty and
trim plain silk and cashmere or tweed most
! effectively. They make handsome jackets or
! basques: and there is no better way in which
| nice old dark wool or silk dress can be re-
modelled than by making over the skirt upona
! lining with a little of the brocade and adding
well fitting cuirass basque made of it entirely.
Inc DeaGed trimmings are lovely-Quite be.
Yond description. They contain all the new
shades of violet, gold, ruby, primrose and dark
I
as effective as masses of jewels. The beads
are set solid, but marvelously combined and
ha1ed in leaf and flower patterns. which are
very light and form a fiat bordering of glitter
ing rope, strand or tasselled fringe. These de-
signs must share the hODors with the glittering
pageant of s'eel which reappears perio ideally
and always with flourish Of trumpets. But
IL never lasts long, for its hard glare Is cold as
death, and 1t can never be made becoming;
that is to say, it can never be made to add TO
any WomanS g beauty. but like steel mirror it
m6ltiplies homelineSS and deprives beauty Of
all warmth and sympathy. The revival Of
steel at this time is due to the fact th at we get
French winter fashions in the spring and Uice
Cersd, for there are no summer materials to
which steel trimmings could be suitably added,
and to put them on velvet or satin would rem
der both still more intolerahle than they are
during our warm weather
The revival of Spanish lace has proven very
successful, end its style and manufacture has
IN const quence very much improved. The new
b!ack ana white spanish trimming laces are
very beautiful. They are In Brussels lace pat
terms, and some are studded with very small
silk buttons. Those in black are used for grena
dimes with charming effect, and In white for
Che SIX muslins. gauzes and striped tissues
which are used for over dresses and combina-
ton with plain and figured Indian silks. Some
OF the black are beaded with gold; some of the
white with pearls, the latter forming leaves or
buds, while the former are generally put on In
Conspicuous amongth new trimming fab
r1cs are the changeable silks, which are in very
high colors. and show striking contrast on the
reverse side. Gold enters into every one, but
the depth of the different colors is wonderful
Twenty shades seem to float on the ruby, the
wine, the purple. the amethyst, and the gold
and the reverse shows the lighter tints of the
color In golden glow.
My last letter gave all necessary information
about the new cotton fabrics, but TO what 1t
contained may be added line regarding a nov
city called the "Cramm' ging ham. 1t is a zephyr
gingham in wide stripes OF delicate pink or
robins egg blue and white, with alternate
stripes in which the blue or pink color is
crowded up so as to make it solid, and leave no
white vi ible. These solid stripes are enclosed
In clusters of white hair stripes. Thess stripes
are the latest things in gingbams and are much
more fashionable than plaids.
GRADUATING DRESSES.
The question Of dress for graduation Is quite
serious one for many young girls; still more
so Tor their mothers, and iG sometimes inter-
feres seriously with the good work and hard
study requir ed in order to close school career
with with hon r The knotty point ought TO be sat
lsfactor N settled some months before the
time q which the costume is required. and
then dismissed from the mind of the graduate,
for it is cruel to allow her to be tormented
with perplexities of this description when all
her powers of mind and strength Of body are
demanded to meet her first public ordeal with
compesure.
The dress for boys and men on such occa
sIons is of immense help to them, because it
requires no thought in getting or at any other
time. 1t is commonplace enough to be forgot
ten A girls dress, on the contrary. even after
she has passed through all the anxious stages
or what and how and whether, and finds the
articles needed in some shape or another an
accomplished fact is still source of tribula.
ton. Something about its cut or shape or
ht' or trimming, is sure to be wrong. 1t is like
or unlike some other that Is obnoxious or ad
mlred: 1t does not look as was expected. An
idea that was considered brilliant turns out
tawdry, and all this is because there is no re
cognized standard, and the white which every
body is supposed TO understand ranges all the
way from elegant toiettes of brocade and
satin to mixed masses Of muslin, with coIored
bodice and many colored ribbons, which show
all the barbaric taste OF JoSephS coat without
Its utility.
graduating dress should, If possible. be
white, all white, without admixture of color
in its trimming. 1t may be of f1ne material
but it should be simple, so that as little diver
sity OF condition be expressed as possible at a
time when all meet on equal ground. and
stand on their merits before an audience The
most suitable materials are fine dotted or en-
broidered muslin, or some soft ivory wool.
such as nuns or Cheddah cloth.
OF course the whole class should decide on
one or the other, for it would look yerv badly
to have part dress in thin wool and part In a |
cotton fabric, but either are more suitable be-
cause more modest than silk or satin which
should be rejected. even If the parents are
rich enough to afford 1t, until more pri-ata
and social occasions, after the youDS i,adv has
entered society, "NS H"'
A college. graduating class Of high reputa.
olon on mas decided for this year upon dresses
lSe OF WeiCe nuns cloth. made with round
pooGfces, straight shirred fronts and draped
oacks over Killed founces-wide ivory satin
oelts and bags of the material lined with satin
ana drawn with satin ribbon. sleeves shirred
ara nnlsned with fine pleatings and lace.
Strapped shoes neat buttoned boots are |
best worn with such dresses, which are, of |
course, made short.
design for dotted muslin shows also a
round waist shirred, so as to form a deep
round yoke. Below this the fullness is gath
ered into wide belt, which is covered with |
corded silk belt, with large pearl buckles The |
sKlrG mas three rufies in front, edged with lac
and headed by three very narrow upright |
fr1lls. The back has a very pretty overskirt, |
draped 1rregularly over single hounce. Such |
dresses as these are inexpensive and very
Selta6le 81 Tor light summer dresses afterward. |
Ii class desires to be little quaint, 1t might
ADOPT plain skirts OF cream-colored satin, with |
several narrow ruff1es upon the bottom. with |
polonatses cut square, and with elbow sleeves
OF howered chintZ, with cream-colored ground
and wear with them small mob caps
modest dress of fine ivory wool with ivory |
satin trimming is, however, much more suita- |
bic than q fancy dress, and can be made more |
useful afterwards And this is the 81 vie to be |
recommended to girls Of taste and refinement.
NEW BoNNETs
The bonnets of the season are small, but in |
stead OF the skull-shape, reproduce the Cottage
and Normandy Sty les. The character is de-
rived from the color and Satin-like gloss OF the
braid, or the Cesign OF the straw and gayety |
of the trimmings, which consist of primroses |
cowslips or violets, massed upon the crown |
or bEim, or satin and brocade arranged in |
folds and bows end scaIf-like strings which |
are gathered up in fripged ends and fastened |
at the sides with an ornamental pin instead of /
a bow. The straws are revivals of the old Co |
burg plait and the "open work. or lace-like |
straws which require silk lining the color of |
which corresponds with the exterior trimming |
? he old "Neapolitan" straws are also revived /
in black and white and are very light and |