Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-06-01
THE SUMMER FASHIONS.
sPECIALTIEs OF THE SEASON.
French and English StVleS-RevfvaI
OF Ancient MOdes-Refiuement of
Summer Clothing.

NEW YORK, May S1.-There are two distinct
modes prevalent among the upper ten thou
sand this season, both of which have their ad-
mirers and followers; both OF which indeed are
followed by the same individuals. One of these
represents the French, the other the English
idea. The French cling to the drapery and the
conventional forms which have become SO
familiar. The English revive the styles of the
last, century, not In their entirety. but in frag-
ments; in plain skirted gowns. in granny
bonnets. in 'leg of-mutton" sleeves. and the
full sleeved surplice cloaks.
1t is probable that the modern school Of
English artists is, more than anything else
responsible for this reproduction of quaint,
picturesque forms, andit cannot be denied that
they have made welcome break In the mono
tony of the overskirt, or trimmed skirt and all
the other eternal see-sawing to which the
dress of woman seems doomed, and which in
reality possesses neither the charm Of novelty
nor the dignity of permaDence; for, notwith
standing the ''rapii changes' upon which
fashion writers have to dIlate in order to pre-
serve their occupation, any woman can see
for herself how little there is that is really
new.
The great difficulty in regard to the English
aesthetic styles is that they do not seem real
We have got so accustomed to the overlaying
process Ito the lambrequin and drawing room
curtain cut and arrangement of our clothes
that simple costumes look like masquerading
in other peoples garments. Women who sigh
over the depravty Of cutting up good material
and wasting" it in ShirringS and furbelows,
would not dare to adopt a plain, "old-
fashioned" design though really much more
distinguished than the one she selects. because
there seems so little OF it, and she is afraid she
would be laughed at il she should wear it,
The COOL quaint, graceful modes are therefore
restricted in their operation ana little uSed ex
cept by those who can afford variety in their
a trDIaar
without reference to what people will say-to
people, in short, who set the fashion, rather
than follow it. Even this limited adoption,
however, has had good effect. 1t has broken
ony of conventional ideas and proved
fruitful source of suggestion
and happy diversity This is particularly
the case with ladies who live much indoors,
and who like variety in their simple dresses of
plain wool or some weshing material. They
have now not only the short wrapper, the
double skirt with blouse waist, and the single
iounced skirt with polonaise. which have been
their stand bys but they have the bias waist
set into belt with plain skirt; the tea gown
shirred or set into yoke; the surplice waist
with belt. plain skirt and puffed sleeve; the
plain bodice waist with gored apron front,
cross-over fichu and leg of-mutton sleeves. In
fact the variety is only limited by the number
Of dresses required.
sPECIALTIEs OF THE SEASON.
A revival of pretty and becoming fashion
numerous narrow hounceS within a few inches
of the waist. Blouse jackets the plain cuirass
and the belted waist. are employed indiscrimi-
nately with this 81 irt; but belt IS usually
added of satin matching the dress or its trim
ming. from which the flow er trimmed pocket
for handkerchief or fan is suspended
The yle adapts itself well to the thin
wooden fabrics in cream, ivory and other
delicate tints, and also to lace and muslin a
trimming for fouard or grenadine and gauze
upon silk The making of ruffies is not very
sKR fhnCn do g
they are easily put on; so that young ladies
can compass dressy toilet with very little
cost f they will take a little trouble
In addition to the revival of the English
styles this season there is a revival of old
English fabrcs-howered cotton sateens,
Madras or darned. which was formerly called
'tambour" muslins, thin open-worked wool
aud chalis foulard. dotted and embroidered
muslin and thin tweeds for summer travelling
wear Sarsnet also reappears; thin but
rather firm and durable silk, much affected
half century ago by old ladies, but now used
as foundation for plaitings and drapery of
lace or muslin, grenadlne or any other fiue
tissue
The summer tweeds and heather mixtures
c py exactly the same goods made for man,
and are excellent wear for serviceable cos
tunes. The colors are dark bronze. olive with
lines Of garnet or old gold, which are almost
inviS ble. They are made with short suits with
no trimmings save buttons, and are often &C.
companied by coats or ulSters 10 match.
The Newport" rowing dress is pretty nov
ely. 1t is OF white linen with almost straight
skirt. trimmed with two narrow ruffieS edged
with fine outline embroidery. a broad Delt
and small fichu of the linen is embroidered to
match. The latter is edged with broad fine
linen guipure lace. The sleeves are full at the
tor, tut form lJng cuff shaped to the arm
below. A gypsy straw hat is worn with this
dress, trimmed with the blue hepatica. ragged
sailor, or some flower that will match the color
OF the thread in the embroidery, which is uSu-
ally old blue Other morning dresses are made
OF dead buff nankeen, trimmed with linen lace
and worn with large Leghorn hat decorated
with null and oats, the brims lined with shirred
null.
A third distinctive style consists of polo
nalse of lowered Sateen over a rufIled skirt of
p ain sateen; the ground of black, claret or
sage green 1t may be. Instead of fichu
there is large collar to this. which is edged
with cream lace i'll an old Brussels pat
tern, and this lace is laid fiat upon the up
turned cuff of the sleeve, which is shirred at
the top and wrist.
Shirrieg is the most distinctive feature in the
making of summer dresses-and the rage for it
increases in the senseless way which fashion
usually follows. Dresses and mantles are
shirred all over so that they are made to ap-
pear hump-backed, and are in the wear
straight, stiff and uncomfortable. 1t would not
be at all surprising, considering the violence of
the fever, if manufacturers should give stuffs
in the fail in which the shirring is already exc
cuted, or at least initiated It has been done
in cotton, why not in silk and wool?
The use of lace is MT novelty but the de-
velopmeDt of trimming laceS and their ap-
plications to the most diversified materials
and designs is certainly growth though not
in any very high or artistic direction.
There is nothing as becoming, however, as lace
rightly worn, and in the matter of dressing up
plain dark toilets and adding grace to lighter
ones the modern trimming laceS have already |
served good purpose.
The present furore is for Spanish" lace, so
called; ready made of Normandy and in much |
prettier patterns than the old formal Spanish |
lace. The most magnificent dresses of the |
season have been made of black or white |
Spanish lace over black or cream satin, with |
large bows for garniture of black or cream |
satin ribbons. No braiding allow
ed. The skirt is founced in
front to the knee with lace, where one of the /
bows is placed. From this point the lace over
dress Is draped away to fall in serpentine folds
at the back. The,satin under dress is princesse-
shaped, but the high lace bodice is shirred
down to form a long point in 'front.' and the
sleeves are either satin to the elbow and OF
lace made in a balloon at the top, or they may
be entirely of lace, short, or reaching below
the elbow and having finish of satin ribbon
Some very pretty short evening dresses have
been made for yourg ladies of pink and white
foulard, the skirt ruffied with lace. the square
cut oddice high upon the shoulder. outlined
with lace, which made double fall over the |
top of the arm and formed a substitute for
sleeve. Small Spanish lace shawls and man.
ties are among the daintiest of outdoor
wraps, arranged as fchus and garnihlred
with q bouquet OF flowers. The small summer
mRLtles from Paris are either made of lace or
of soft snrah, trimmed profusely with lace
and long loops of satin rib oon. The alI-laee
are many n them rnada M in riff YIr1ov q |