Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1881-01-01
In he Coast of Normandy.
PARIS, --, 1880.


PARIS, --, 1880.
Dear -: 1 have been on two
weeks trip in Normandy, and just returned.
We stopped ten days at Rouen, day at Fe-
camp and ten days at Etratal, little water
ing place on the coast, and came home by way
of Hav-e. We had very good time, and
the sea air has braced me up considerably.
I made half n dozen studies from nature at
Etratal, in Gil. The country around is very
beautiful the farm-houses and yards are very
picturesque. The sea- bathing was something
new for ne, but not being able to swim more
than mile, 1 generally looked on at the
pretty French girls, who rather lose some of
their bloom and beauty in wet condition,
but you should see them when they are dry.
We went through Rouen and its cathedrals
What place II was These were he
MISTY OLD cATHEDRALs
You dream OF you read of them and hear of
them, but all this is indefinite and unsatis-
factory until you see them, then you can go
home and wrap the drapery of your couch
about you, and lie down to pleasant dreams,
provided you dream about these cathedrsls
They haunt you; you cannot think of any
human work being more beautiful, and it fills
You up. and you say to yourself, l have net
something that satisfies me at last. 1t is not
one CO thedral that alone attracts your atten-
ton tnero are half dozen enormous build
ings, any one Of which would make a city
celebrated The great Cathedral of Rouen
has the second highest steepie of any church
In the world and 10 look up from some little
~. lad nd nE
these tumb.e-dow old houses is sight so
beautiful and odd that you feel as though you
would ike to live and nope around the old
place forever. This is a peculiar effect OF
these cid towns You become attached to
them at once and feel as though you had
lived in them all your life. l suppose the
reason is because everything is old and Its in
It's place-belongs to the atmosphere, and
You easily f into your place along with the
gargoyles, caves spandreis, buttresses, etc,
and feel at home. The cathedrals, more than
anything else, have their
FASCINATING POWER,
Aad before you have seen them many times
you feel an affection for the old pile that be-
comes as strong as that for a friend. The
buildings are so thoroughly human and
spiritual, so much more so than anything else
you see, that it IS no wonder they possess
such charms. They are so cid and fine that
you almost take your hat of standing look
ing at them. You take your hat off on the
inside why not on the outside, which is much
more beautiful and impressive. The Cathe-
dral of ROuen is very old and is moss-grown
and crumblinC away, like an old man with
his teeth falling out /; 1T has mellowed and
has the appearance of having been hewn out
of solid rock. and worn away by the rain into
all sorts Of fantastic shapes. The iu-
terror of the cathedral is not as beautiful as
thsoutside butts very grand and solemn, and
If the weather permits the effect Of light and
and shadow. is one Of the most beautiful
sights that can be conceived, but these effects
are not frequent and last but little while at
the best.
We dropped into the grand cathedral at
sunset after 3 heavy rair-stOrm and the at
mosphere was wonderfully clear. We passed
through the little four-foot door and came
out of the dark passage into one of the most
wonderful effects [ ever saw. The cathedral
was
VERY soNBER,
The immense clusters of gray columns run
ming up out Of sight into a shadow of deep
reddish tone, everything misty and indis-
tinct, but on the floor and striking a few
of the columns were immense patches of
colored light streaming from an immense
stained window over the organ. Gorgeous
streams poured down of every tint and shade
of color conceivable. It was sublime and in
such beautiful harmony with everything
around. The colors were apparently as i'm
movable and solid as the stones, and seemed
to sympathizs with the old place. Presently
we would hear q faint chant away down in
some corner Of the cathedral, so indistinct
that you could just hear the ghost of chant
somewhere in the distance. We sat and
listened, and looked, and thought, and Won
dered until the light gradually faded away,
THE ooLoRs GREW FAINTER
And weaker, and finally dissoiving into the
gray stones, leaving the church lit only by a
few streaks way up overhead. The solemn
chanting went on, and then came sweeping
down to me the musical chime of the old
steeple hundreds of feet above cit was a
dream" c. whispered; let's so while
we have the impression one of the guides
may come down on US and spoil it at any
moment" So we quietly slipped out. |
think that 1 viii go back some day and do
some painting in one of the cathedrals.
There are hundreds of pictures in them from
every view, aud all beautiful.