The weekly clarion. [volume] (Jackson, Miss.) 1863-1882, 1881-03-17
FASHION NOTES.

are permanently draped most volumil
Gus over-dresses. The foundations c
. the dress are, however, unchanged, 3
the basque with trimmed skirt remain
the prevailing style. But the BASQUE
vary from the simplest and shortest no,
worn to the long surtout-an Englisl
surtout relieved of its severe plainnes
v by French taste-and this surtout i
worn over a skirt as elaborately trimme,
and draped as those made for the short
est basques, Many skirts are trimmed
with four or five founces in box pleat,
or side pleats, while some are pleated a
intervals those that are SHRED at tn,
top and folded below into pleats are also
In great favor. Most founces are wide
| ly bordered.w the material used for
trimming or the figured stuff that is
used in combination with plain material.
A pretty spring toilet is described he,
low. Dress of dark blue spring Che
viot. Skirt trimmed with "A rather deem
fiounce, with clusters of large pleats
separated at regular intervals by appli-
cations Of Scotch plaid Surah of ex-
tremely soft and blended shades. On
the front of the skirt were three enor-
! nous bows of the same Surah, more
than eight inches wide, and spread out
so as almost entirely to cover the front
of the dress. The overskirt, of the
same material as the skirt, opened in
fan shape, SO as ia show the bows.
The side breadths of the overskirt
were laid in broad pleats, and formed a
large cornet of funner at the bottom.
In 6o g IL
the plaid Surah was mixed here and
there. The corsage, in the form of
jacket, opened from the throat to about
an inch from the waist over a pulled
plastron Of Surah. The large sailor
collar and cuffs were also of Surah.
Bayadere stripes in soft satin Surah
in fine wooden goods are the striking
novelties for combining with plain fab
RIGS, but they require to be sparingly
used, for instance as revers, facing
plastrous, collars, cuffs, sashes, and
sometimes skirts, while the basque and
0verdress or drapery is always solid
colors. Cheaper board patterns, blocks,
plaids and plain goods &c contrasting
colors are used the same way. Brocades
no
except the Egyptian brocade which is
very quaint and effective.
BAsQUEs, DRAPERIEs, ETC,
The new hasques are single breasted
and fit as smoothly as a Jersey all
around the hips until they reach the
middle forms of the back, where they
are folded in two pleats that may be
triple or quadruple, and open up the
middle seam to show the layers of folds
or pleats. In order TO keep the round
basque perfectly smooth over the hips,
it is loaded by weights Of lead to holdit
down, and these weights are not confn-
ed to the front and back as at present
when only four or six are used, but
there are now ten or twelve weights
placed at intervals around the basque in
the facing that completes it.
Sometimes the left side form of the
basque is made very much longer than
that on the right side, and is caught up
by bow of ribbon on the pleats Of the
middle form. La others, there are four
box pleats in the middle behind, that
reach nearly to the bottom of the lower
skirt; these are arranged in pairs, two
above the other two, are lined with
crinoline, and are each as wide as the
whole breadth Of silk used for lining
them they are then folded in triple
pleats, and are pressed fatty into shape
they do not look stiff because they are
usually relieved by sashes of striped
stuff, and they fall amidst the intricate
curved draperies that are attached to
the skirt.
NI,af 20 RI No i
to turn upward and back, and arc faced
with the bayadere stripes. Sometimes
only the night front is turned up, and
the striped Surah facing continues as a
sab, passing under the long box pleats
of the middle form to tho left side,
where it falls il straight single sash
end ~ Ihe foot Of the dress.
a great many dresses have Byron col
lars of striped stuff; others have a
straight piece of striped Surah like a
ribbon, six or eight inches wide, gather
ed to the middle of the back of the neck,
passing around to the front, and hav-
ing single loop and two ends 10 finish
what recalls the neck-ribbon of old
times. Buttons are small and incon-
spicuous on these new basques, being
confined to fastening the front, where
they were oft hidden out of sight by the
many folds, pleats and shirrings of the
Pockets are seldom seen on
these garments, or on the newest out
side wraps. Belts and a hanging bag
take the place of hip pockets.
The curved drapery is like that
known as hooped drapcIy, with the
length not caught up by pleats down
the sides, but drawn up to the belt, and
pleated there the ends are not apart
below, but are in a continuous curve.
There are quiet &c many long over
skirts as there are short ones, but the
object In all seems to be to s'corrugate"
them that Is, to wrinkle into many
folds the soft stuff that lends itself so
easily to this graceful draping. Sleeves
retain the coat shape, and are most
simply trimmed at the wrists, with
to gathering up the inside
seam shorter on the arm than the lower
part of the sleeve. Facings and piping
folds of contrasting colors will play
far more important part in trimmings
than they have ever yet done.
For very dFessy costumes. a great
deal Of lace. very fully gathered, will
be used -for black dresses, Spanish lace
is chosen; while for lighter dresses,
white lace Of the inexpensive kinds is
colored as dark as coffee yellow, and is
also used in great quantities. There
are some soft, crnshed-lookin rosettes
of Surah, but the prettiest dresses and
mantles have many hows-each of many
loops heaped upon each other-of satin
ribbon about two inches wide these are
at the throat and waist line, in the