, 1881-12-25

| less source OF tuxa1ion nnd annoyance In con
sequence OF its many propensities.: -. -. =,
a new color is announced called :'Pharaoh' y
It is u yellowish shade of red. und Is said to dc
( rive its cognoInen from, the brlck-maktng pro
4 pansties Of the ancient King Of Egypt. Other
claim that the color Is identical with the hue o
and his army went forth upon their discredita
Bile aud fatnl march to the Red Sea-;
An woolen dresses are simply made, the lead
ing colurs being Vandyek. brown, Venetin
6oing an especial favori , These s; serviceab W .t
suits arc trimmed with bntlds OF soft t:ruy fu
brought from the Sicily lsles-a pretty and ef
quite durabie. For Thinning m streas e dsesscs s q
! more expensive description Russian and Lap
land furs are ia ereat delnaud:. Silver sud BID,
sabies hold their own as preEminentiy the frs
! 10 be selected. ~ e -: 80 =
A Recanier costume made. Of. golden brow,
mervetilen1 has tablier covered with plnitinr
! seal velvet embroidered in various shades o
| gold. The bodice Is sharly pointed and borderet
with gold EN- broldcrcd band Of velvet. Yh
band also. stimulates II: heart-shaped plasrroi
upon the lower porron Of tha waist. The bodtc,
laces at the back, terminating in q wide Loui:
/ Qu1nze scarf Of embroidered velvet. Tho sleeves
are slashed and Tiled III with gold-covered puts
| OF seal VetVcl- = sl,s.: -
! Tho bead manufacturers are making Immense
fortunes. Bending is still carried TO aa extenl
| that Is really absurd From the sole Uf the foot
to tho crown ct the head We are lilcraily coyeref
with beads. BrocadeS arc outlined with them
applique vines are covered with them, even II
| the deiicate veIntng done with the finest bends
nia,foa and sloaks Eesses shoes. stocklnzs gloves
>blters glitter with jet sparkle with beuds and
| crystals resembling precl0us gems of every hue
| .Width Of skirt and fnllness OF drapery arc now
considered quite rs essential to tns stylish tni-
lets OF young misses as to theirmutntnas.> The
long c1ngtnK princesse dress Is almost abolished,
AMI in It's piace are dressy robes covered With
pu.hngs shirrings. TUNES. paniers, trls, reyers.
different Tgys--n- novel arrangeme1t belug TO
fastcn the centre Of, the sash to the left shout
der With fancy buckle or spray Of flowers,
the right side+- where 1t terminates in Il tiny
ehirred kerchief< pouch, underneath which. ,lto
set short, brond ends 81 the sash ribbon: ~.
6ilver-spaugled tulie will be worn with BALL
dresses, oyersk!rts Of white surah, sllvcr-gr7ay
or anber-satin. The skirts Of many beautiful
balt toilets are made entirely Of plaittngs of
white Spanish. blonde. with wide luce" scarf
drapcd around the; skirt tor Il tunc. These
plated lace scaTfs arc exceedingly zcphyr-Iike,
aud make q pleasing contrast to the heavy bro
are placed over underskists Of crea11,- wtlite
surah, and 1t Is quite fashionable to wear Louis
XIV corsages over them, made OF plush Or bro:
bctter carried out Dy making the bodice of white
suruh. yelled By Spanish blonde. aud garnishcd
with sprays Of pale tinted flowers. :: :: =
An opera-coak fresh from Paris is made of
~
arabcsques botng e1quisitely, tinted in pale
cameo and most delicate shHde Of green. The
loose mandarin sleeyes und edges Of the cloak
bordered with Ostrich-feather trimming, the tips
shading alternately into the pale pink or green
The ends Of the sleeves and point Of the sntin->
lined hood nre garnished with long loops and
cnds of white satin ribbon. Tho whole garment
is also lined with white satin. Accompanying
this elegant wrap Is q diminutire envelope muir
made Of the brocade aud bordercd with the
feather trimming. a large knot Of satin, two
artificial tea roses. and bit Of srn!lux arc held
in place by a conch serpent with emerald eyes,
which has as apparently coiled itself around the
:; Luxurious winter rnuntles are now shown made
IN magnificent black tuateriats, with bright plush
Innings These fabrics are usually cut velvcts
and heavy satins, with chenille or velvet t1ow-
SONS, such us passion-dowers, dnhltas, mar
gucrites, cabbagc-roses, suntowcrs,: and holly:
locks, All US large as life: Trimmings nre used
sable or seal, bordering OF xf6fiuet, heavy pas
semeuterles or chenille cords with Jet agnilets.
such are tho only ornaments employed. The
more simple pettsses are made OF satin CLOTH,
sometimes Of light texture. and lined with
bright surah quilted with but scanty w;lddtng;
consequently requiring no lining 1T all. There
are also long bluck India and Vienna wr,lps. !
These are in rhe vfsite. or directoirc form, the
latter shtrrcd around the neck. They are
trimmed with elegant beaded <,nppfiquGs and
jetted cords, which nro always used double, nnd
are placed from the shoulder, to the whist Or
auo outtons' ~, >..., = s:
! Many plaid costumes are seen upon the
promenade; they are very fnshionabiy worn by
those who arc fond Of this style Of dress As Il
and the costume is toned BY bands, panels, and
sushes Of dark plush. Bonnets to match these
dresses are ornamentcd with var-colored or
mottled feAthers made to order from Il sample ]
Of the dress material but in this case one is cO-
deiuncd to wear always the sams bunnet with !
The same dress, and for Ibis reason a costume
$.,1
Is moro useful to those who cannot afford u va
riety Of street costumes; ,A1uny Indies who !
choose dresses Of monochrome color have HUB
bnrd conks nude Of corresponding material, !
md very economical and tasteful suit Is thus |
obtntncd, as the cloak covers the dress COM ]
s. seT easy to trim little ne toaue wit6
satin or velvet OF the same COLOR: SO MS to be |
q s suite, for an affinity il Tho details Of tho
:hese dninty head coverings aro fractional only, !
! bird laid tlat against one side, brunch OF un- /
mounted roses or an Alsatian bow being all tho J
ldornmcnt necessary. **> ~.
broadway importing house deserve dcscrip-
ton. The first one, intended for n bride, con- i
lists Of a cossage and short skirt, The latter
,luin colored. velvet. The skirt parts In front
o show q stfrred unt1erskfrt Of violet saefn, I
trimmed with box plating, headed by double
'elvet.;t The camareo bodice is bordcred with
ong loops OF velvet lined with violet satin.
na q! tnet VAST Slight turerIu1xture Or
trlped velvet In plum color and * Wat
eau g brocade relieve 7 the :. rich daskness
t the ovcr1ress.: The second dress Is OF
oyal blue velvcr and India brochG, ia mile
leuss on Russian blue ground: The velvet skirt
J trimmed with three narrow rtfties, and down
be front is Q tablter acntely pointed, which is
aade % OF the brqche. The velvet corsage is
revtces broche ktlttng. This co1sage "Opens
! front over an undervest Of tho: india fabric,
nj Is IN the shape OF long ,casaquin, with vel
ct straps which cross the plnstron and fasteu l.
owaTd the right hand front: with, small silyer :
uck!es, The seams at the back open for about
ve inches &C the lower part, 70 ,ailotr the
merging Of broche scarf. knotted at, the lert J.
de With careless gruce.: The sleeves, tight to |
'e elbow. arc adorned by sutin VandycE puff
lgs. over which tho buckled bands Of velvet
re repeat9d Oh II smaller scale.
:: How Leatiler Scraps nre Utilized.
- Letuisto4. (3le.) Journal: ~
Every little scrap Of leather that flies from the |
ltteTs kntresi In the Auburn shoe-shops Is saved,
I'd either goes into leather-board, shoe-heels, II
grease. Who says this isn't an economical
re? About two months ago factory. was |
NTtFd f0r making af1oaxhapta In Auh1r rr rhnv /