National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1881-11-12
FALL FASHIONS.
WHAT oENTLEMEp ARE WEARING
PantnlOons, Coats. Warfs, shiri.COllars and Guns
Jcuelry. sd All Sorts Of underwcar-Ihc
Cyst Of All styles OF Goods Here
and Elsewhere.


cutting ucntlemcn's clothing, though pantaloons |
nrc narrower than those OF last season, ana all
coats are shorter, including the Prince Albert |
rock coats, dress coats, morning cut-aways sacks,
and also overcoats The suit for business, travel
ing and morning wear is made entirely from one |
piece of English or Scotch suiting In neat plaids,
checks, or mixtures of color, The coat may be |
sack, with one or four buttons, or an English cut.
away with the same number OF buttons. |
The vest cut high like the coat has collar
or not, according to the fancy Of the wearcr.
The trousers are very close. fitting The semi
dress suit for church and afternoon wenr Is really
the day dress. suit, 1t is worn to oil entertain
ments given in the daytime such ns afternoon
teas receptions, and weddings This consists OF
q Prince Albert double breasted frock-coat OF |
black or dark blue twilled cloth-young men pre- |
fer dark blue with marked diagonal lnesi TINS |
coat Is flushed with silk facings and the vest, Of
the same clio b, is cut very high TO match the coat
so that only very little ofthe folded scarf shown
below the collar. The trousers are made of
heavy cloth with dark, neat stripes, usually |
having gray effect but no special color prevails
for these. The dress suit remains unchanged in
shape, except that the coats are shortened trlhe
The most glossy west of. England broadcloth is
used for this swallow tail coat and the vest which
IS cut low in front 10 match IT, and these are the
only garments now made Of broadcloth for men
of fashion. silk facings may be used on such
reefs. The narrow trousers are Of heavier doeskin
of the same lustrous black used for the coat Young
men of fashion now wear this suit to all enter.
tainments in the evening, putting 1t Oh for six
o'clock dinners, making evening calls in 1t, wear
ing IL TO the theatre where formerly II was sell
dom seen. and going thence to receptions, over
coats are made OF Elysans and fur beaver cloth,
and are most often sacks, slightly shorter than
those Of last year. but occasionally surtout over
coat is ordered Blue, brown, aud black are the
colors used, without preference for either.
sCARFs.
Flatly folded scarfs of satin, with black or very
dark grounds nearly covered with small intricate
figures in gay colors, arc now fashionable for day
use. Large spots Of white, or Of color contrast
ing with that of the ground, are also worn and
are much more stylish than those with the small
polka dots. Gros grain scars are little used.
The Sweepstakes scarf has catch underneath
that simplifes the fastening. The day scarf,
whether laid in folds or tied in bow by the
wearer, must be broad enough to i'll I'M all the
space inside the neck Of the vest, and conceal the
white shirt front. Neat English sc0rf5 made 10
wear with standing collars are folded quite mar.
rowly at the throat below narrow neck band,
then widen slightly, and are sufficient to I'LL up
the spaCe LEFT by very high vests. The straight De
Joinville scarB are tied by the wcarer to imi-
tate those Just described, though some are worn In
a ring or tied in long sallor-knot to bear al or
all these, unless the wearer dresses In mourning,
when black gros grain Is used. For full dress the
narrowly folded white lawn ties are chosen some
black satin ties, folded in the same way are also
worn at dinners, &c
SHIRTS, COLLARS, AND CUFFS.
The shirt fronts chosen for all occasions, for
dress as well rs for general wear are plain linen
of three thickneSscs,cu in shield shape and with
out any decoration in the way Of pleais or en-
brodery. This shirt bosom is never visible except
with the lowcut fronts of dress coats when few
tiny tuclis or cords may DO stitched in the edge,
outside of the single large stud which is now worn
on dress occasions. This stud Is OF Hammered
gold, or plain Etruscan gold, with jcwcled
centre n diamond sapphire, or turquoise
is preferred. Turned. down collars acc again re.
stored to favor for dress occasions, but are worn
very narrow, with n small open space that Is filled
by the small bow of the white lawn scarf an
other shape has the turncd.down collar meeting
at the throat but Is slOpcd away broadly to show
the flat scarf worn with 1t. The Jason collar is n
popular standing collar, as II laps slightly, and
docs not have sharp points that are uncomfortable
10 the wearer; this Is worn both for dress
and general wear. The English collar standing
behind, and turned in points in front, Is sill
used. There are various other standing shapes.
Some are like clerical bands; some meet without
tapping; others leave an inch ofspace open ut the
throat; aud still others haye the tops curved at
lle throat llhltuu VI ONCI III llOlhlo
The cuffs are narrow, square corncred, aud meet
without tapping, so that they may be worn with
linked sleeve buttons. Gentlemen whow large
sleeve buttons that difficult to insert in stifly-
starched linen will incilitRee matters, spare their
cuffs, aud perhaps retain their own good humor
by slightly moistenlng the linen near the button
hole on the wrong side; touching 1t to the tongue
is sufficient,
JEwELRY.
Hammered gold combined with platina is fash
ionable for scarf pins and linked sleeve. buttons
worn by gentlemen. These come in large round
ball heads for scaris, and in oval shaped buttons
White enameled studs are pdsse, and the singl,
large stud described above is most used. The
collar button Is an important piece, and may b'
plain gold or n valuable stone. New scarf-pni
have an animals head, perhaps Of Labrador spar
or else of gold with jewclcd eyes. Tho plaque
pins nrc still worn.
UNDERWEAR
Colorod underwear is preier rred to white by
most gentlemen; this Is true of the silk suits a.
well Rs line woolens. Pinkish lavender and but
suits Of silk are shown in three different weights
to suit all temperatures the gray Scotch WOO
suits of Coburg cashmere are made Of the fines
Shetland fleece; the Bismarck merino in brown
shades has flannel bands at the neck and waist
and the best English mcrino vests, instead Of hay.
ing a clumsy hem at the edge, now finished
with widely ribbed selvedge like that on wrists
and the drawers have woven double seats tn,
latter are 80 to sli the suit according to weight
Stomach bands of pure wool woven in ribs lik,
sevcdges are imported for ladies, gentlemen, nnt
children, and are commended in both rcd anC
white by physicians for those who have veal
stomachs; they cost So. Scotch sleeping shirts TO
travellers are of the heaviest wool, woven with al
opening at top TO put the head through, and ar
then quite straight and ffty-six inches long; tn,
price is $3.50. The dresS.suit protector as dealer
all a. l. don Of txpfl laH 9Th "a
pongee, to be worn over the under. vest aud be
meath the shirt, TO protect the wearer from cole
when exchanging heavy day coats for the lightc
cloth dress -cOats; these are $3.50 to SO. Striped
French fannels of light quality in gra!
aud mode shades, also the mixed silk and WOO
hannels, are made up in Pajama suits for winter
there are also Inexpensive Pujamas Of domestic
hannels, and those Of Japanese pOngee are worl
all the year Bath robes ofstriped blue and whit
hannels, and the blanket robes Of red, gray, o
white blankets, with the gay woven borders Of tn
blanket for trimming, succeed those Of Turks
towellng used in the summer; the newest pai
flannel robes are gathered about the neck in gen
uine Mother Hubbard fashion, und are OTna
mented all around with embroidery done b
hand NighL-shirts oflinen or of heavy Frenc
percale have Byron collars, and pleated line
trill on the bosom and sleeves. with fine fealhC
stitching in the frills The Tappers aud da
gowns most liked by gentlemen are OF Englis
cloths very thick, plable, and warm, aud 4
Cheyiot designs Of checks, stripes, indislinC
plGids, and mixtures Of coloH, or else they are q
japanese silk Of very dark color--brown, maroon
blue, or green-lightly wadded with down an
quilted, These cost S25 or S3O and are less enimi
nate looking than the embrOlded cashmere wrap
pers formerly used. Short jackets for billiards
smoking, &C., are made also Of English cloths {
wadded silk.
HOSIERY.
la hap nd gpplyg NJ ell
..ILI L.. IL