The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-06-23
[Harpers Bazar.]
New York Fashions.
Gentlemen's Clothing.

and for general morning wear is made entirely
from one piece of English cashmere or Scotch
Cheviot in neat mixtures of color without any
defined pattern, or else in very small checks.
1t is de rigueur that this suit be all alike, and
as trousers show wear soonest, an extra pair OF
trousers made from the same piece of goods is
provided with the suit This suit may have
either an English cut-away coat or a single
breasted sack, buttoned by one, three or four
buttons according to the wearer's fancy. Such
coats are shorter than those of last season; the
vest has no collar, and is very high the trou-
Sers are narrower in the legs. The semi-dress
suit for church, for visiting, for day weddings,
afternoon receptions, and indeed for all cere.
monious occasions in the daytime, consists of
the Prince Albert double-breasted frock-coat
OF black or blue diagonal cloth, with vest of
the same, and trousers of neat gray stripes of
medium shades, neither too light nor too dark
Gentlemen's full-dress suits with swallow-tail
coat are now literally what they claim to be-
evening dress-and are never worn before
late dinner. There is no change to note in
full-dress suits other than that coats are short
er and pantaloons narrower. This suit is the
only one for which lustrous broadcloth is now
used by men of fashion. Besides the regula-
ton suits just described, gentlemen provide
themselves with morning coat Of black or
blue diagonal cloth, cut to button from one to
four buttons, and with this are separate trou-
sers Of dark quiet colors. For midsummer
wear there are also suits of Scotch heather or
of serge, either single or double-breasted but
never with fitted coat. White double
breasted duck vests are worn in summer with
Prince Albert frock- coats. Summer overcoats
are short sacks with silk breast facings; these
are made Of Melton or diagonal cloth of dark
gray OF brown shade; light brown is the most
fashionable color. Smoking jackets imported
from London are of English homespun cloth
made up in short skeleton sacks For travel
ing are listers of English tweed, or busters OF
checked homeSpun cloth, or else of gray or
black twilled mohair.
Perfectly plain shirt fronts are used for all
occasions, even for those of full dress, w hen
the shirt bosom is visible in the low-cut dress
coat sometimes two pairs of eyelets are neces-
sary, as two studs of white enamel may be worn,
but for those who wear gem, only one pair of
eyelet holes is made. With the high vests and
coats and wide fiat scarfs worn in the daytime,
the shirt front is never seen. Standing linen
collars are nowlmadelto lap in front. Turned
UOWu COlldfS arc WOIu udfEOW, ana 90 not
meet in front, leaving space an inch and a
half wide at the throat. Cuffs are square, and
are made to meet, not lap, so that they can be
worn with linked sleeve buttons. Neglige
flannel shirts for gentlemen to wear in the
mountains. for hunting, or boating, are in Che
viOt patterns and colors, or else with polka
dots OF white on blue, or blue on white, etc.
Balbriggan underwear is in solid colors this
season, in shades of fawn or tan; this costs
from $3.50 to S12 a suit.
The flat folded scarf is now worn in the sum-
mer as well as in winter. 1t has been i'm
proved of late by being made over acorrugated
shield that fits closely to the wearer, as it IS
curved slightly instead of standing outward, as
those with stiff straight Innings are apt to do.
w nes e a
Then there are dark wide De Joinville scarfs
to be tied by the Wearer in sailor knot, or
else passed through ring. Quaint shades of
blue are popular for Windsor scarfs of foulard
that may be dotted or else have many Japa-
nese figures upon them; similar motted effects
are liked on white and cream-colored grounds.
Madras colors are pretty in bars, checks and
stripes, and there are some checks of white
with single color, especially blue, black or
brown. While the Windsor scarfs OF grena-
dine and of foulard are wider than ever, there
are also many narrowly folded scarfs of satin
or of foulard with banged" ends, as the deal
ers call the straight fringed edges. Gingham
neckties narrowly folded are still worn, but in
larger plaiuS tndu tuOSo Oh laSG summer; tl6S0
are 25 cents apiece, or $3.50 dozen.
HANDKERCHIEFs AND HOSIERY.
Large French linen pocket-handkerchiefs
used III the morning have narrow hens of gaJ
colors, or else the entire centre of the handker-
chief is in blocks of ecru with white. while the
corners are tipped with red or blue. Ombre
stripes of red, blue, or olive on the hem are
new and popular. English handkerchiefs of
silk, either white or colored, have dots in the
% nf nfraS ao1A
which are large balls, or else stripes, or it may
be birds or animals. For dress are handker-
chiefs of sheer linen with medium hem hem
stitched and white embroidered initial or
monogram.
Balbriggan and lisle-thread socks for general
wear have dots or fine horizontal stripes, or
else are of plain dark color. Very dark blue
socks for day wear nave embroidered spots or
rings of black or red done with silks, or else
they are grey rings on lighter blue, or old gold
is wrought on very dark red, or pale lemon
color on peacock blue. Similar contrasts of
color are shown in very narrow stripes. For
full dress to be worn with low shoes are plain
black silk socks with black clocks at the sides.
Long Knickerboeker stockings of ribbed wool,
to be worn on bicycles or with hunting suits,
are 50 % pair. Nh- 1913
Round narrow-toed shoes have superseded
those with broad square toes. For street wear
and for business are buttoned boots-not Con-
gress gaiters-of calf-skin, made with good sub
stantial soles, low heels, and narrow toes more
pointed than formerly. For gentlemen who
Dress shoes for the house, the carriage, and for
evening are of patent-leather. The Oxford
ties-very low shoes laced on top--are worn
with separate black cloth gaiter tops by gentle
men with English tastes Low pumps of pa
tent leather are chosen for dancing.
The dress hat for summer is of dark grey cas-
simere, with very marked bell crown, broad at
the top, and six and a fourth inches high; the
brim has the D'Orsay curl, and is about an inch
and half wide. Price Sc. Business hats are
of the same blue-gray cashmere as dress hats,
but are low round crown Derbys in shape. The
crown is worn as low as the face of the wearer
will permit, and ranges from three and half
TO five and half inches in height; the brim
has the English round curl. These are $3.50.
The fashionable straw hat remains the rough
yet soft and light Mackinaw straw in sailor
shape, with low crown and stiff brim. High
er crowns are on the Mackinaw hats worn by
elderly men; $3.50 to $15 are asked for the
real Mackinaws, of which there are many i'm
itations that lose their shape when exposed to
the weather. Manila hats for old gentlemen
are $5 or Sc. The only,soft neglige hats shown
are the soft crushed felt travelling hats to
match suits in color. These may be folded up
and put in the coat pocket; they come in
white, gray, blue, black, olive and brown.
Youths and small boys wear small Mackinaw
sailor hats with wide bands of fancy colored
ribbon.
Eng ish kid gloves of heavy quality, with
wide stitching on the back, and undressed kid
gloves fastened by two buttons, are those most
worn by gentlemen. Tan and mode colors are
chosen for driving, promenading in the fash
ionable streets, and for going down town to
business in the morning; these are the few oc-
casiOns on which gloves are worn, as it is far
more usual at present to see gloves thrust in
the breast of the coat or carried in the hands
than worn upon them. AS we have already
said, they are not worn at day weddings nor
are they usually seen at receptions, either in
the day or evening. Ceremonious calls in even
ing dress are made without glos es; they are
seldom worn even at dancing parti es-a fash
ion greatly detrimental to the dresses of young
ladies of which they complain bitterly. Driv-
ing gloves of lisle-thread with kid In the
palms and inside of the fingers, are $1.50 a
pair.
When Barnum's show passed through q
city in the interior of the State, Chang, the