Ellsworth American., 1881-01-20
Vol. XVII. Whole No. 1856. Nos.
New York Fashions.
STYLES FOR JANUARY


Fashions which prevail in Jan, ary, hold
their own during the remainder of the win
ter, and the New Years costume il imror-
tant therefore, not only as indicative OF what
is stylish at the present time but of what
is to come. BY far the greater number of
dressy toilets are made with trimmed skirts
and basques and the use of magnificent
brocqdes having proved unfavorable to short
dresses for evening wear, most of the hand
somer costumes are devised with trains.
They are not of unusual length and are a
compromise between the square and the
round train, Pa-tAlrins of tho ,,aturo NJ both
since they would be square but that the
corners are rounded off Sleeves are gem
orally to the elbow and the cors&ce is cut
high around the throat, square or heart
shaped; the latter style being sometimes
allowed to come close about the neck and
opened below. These leading ideas are of
course so variously combined and modified
by the skillful modiste that there is no
sameness, but continual variety, for among
number of New Year costumes gotten Up
for leaders of society by Lord & TAYLOR,
it was only on a close examination that GER
tain prevailing features were to be remark
ed. superb costume was of black velvet
on which at intervals were placed in ap-
pllque style, bouquets and sprays of silk
embroidered flowers in gay natural colors.
The effect was lovely. Another exquisite
costume was of heliotrope brocade COM
bined with satin; third, gold and crimson;
a fourth, pale pink brocade with satin and
crystal passementerie; a fifth, pure white.
All the brocades were very large in pattern
for you must remember that small figured
brocades are not now used, at least for very
dressy wear. Opera cloaks were never so
gorgeous and are really respIendent Gre
atlons Of rich brocade wrought in very
large, wide open flowers, The long dolman or
visite is the fashionable shape for these ele-
giant garments
PLUSH COLLARS
are decided novelties and give a stylish fin
ish to dresses, being all the more becoming
perhaps, because there is wide range as to
choice in the way of color. Cuffs of plush
can be added at the wrists. Of course there
should be white collar or rutfie within the
collar of plush and cuff of linen or lace
below the plush at the end of the sleeve.
Street costumes are often added to BY large
collars or even laps of plush and here too
the plush cuff may give warmth about the
wrist. The severe winter has also brought
fur capes into much demand and fur cuffs
to match are now sometimes wQ{n The
G9PdebeGrGea tf T Is On other TaS norts Of the
tune, but charmingly coquettish fancies are
now seen as substitutes. They are made of
plush or heavy cloth cut into some pretty
shape, wadded bound on the edges, tied
with ribbon and sometimes edged with wide
white lace. Others are finished with gold
braid, artificial flowers or embroidery. If
ingenious, YOU can devise one for yourself,
but the pattern houses bring out models and
of these, the prettiest have noticed, is the
Olga. Sara Bernhardt has left behind her
rage for ruffiings about the neck. They
never were in such demand nor carried to
quite such extremes. Crepe Isse is much
used, probably because so becoming, vet
lace comes in for a full share of popularity.
1t is impossible to give special description
but in all kinds, the Sidenburg favorite
brands are most sought after because most
fashionable and the best made.
INDEPENDENT BAsQUEs
of cloth or velvet to be worn with differen
skirts have a jaunty finish given them BY
additions of gilt braid and embroidery.
Three rows of braid around the edges and
embroidery on the collar, cuffs and pockets.
One sees at glance how pretty these must
be and they afford change from basques of
brocade, Another new and pleasing orna-
mentatlon for corsage is to have collar
and cuffs of colored satin, red blue, gold.
o'' N'N'' AAHi'iCt Will SlIl tIlOIOlueTN.
This of course is more suitable for a cos
tune than an independent and the collar
and cuffs of satin take the place of any
other trimming on the corsage. A touch of
gilt embroidery or of satin and embroidery
can be added on the skirt but it is not es-
sential. This season indeed. it is hard to
misplace gilt trimmings. In all sorts of
forms they intrude themselves EVERYWHERE
and much as they are liked for costumes are
more prominent in millinery. But gilt or
silver bralds should never be put on bro
cades where variety of colors are blended
although we do see tinsel threads running
through brocades. Metal trimmings are
better adapted to plain goods and in general
are SO employed. Enormous bows of satin
ribbon are now attached on the left side of
the corsage just above the waist line, in
stead of the mammoth bouquets of flowers
which were once in vogue, and the fact that
all symmetry is destroyed by their use,
does not seem to interfere with their popu-
larity. Lucy CARTER.