Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-08-09


lace patterns upon ground Of rich wine-colored
or Old gold satin. The costume ornamented In
this way was a fine stone-colored French wool,
ana the cost was considered very high at forty
dollars, the new and specially wrought trim
mlngs rendering it SO. Open work embroidery
or lace itself as substitute for this effect re-
duced the cost considerably. but took away all
the dlstlnctfve effect and novelty. The trimming
IN this instance formed wide. stiff border above
! narrow pleating round the bottom of the skirt.
which was ungraeeful. and needlessly expended
the costly ornamentation. scarf-like band
upon the front, placed diagonaily would have
oeen prettier, and the finish upon the long coat
basque would have been sufficient for the back
Inc new basques are all cut with deep. rather
narrow lappels the interior pleating of satin
when the exterior is wool, and vest of satin
forming sort of rolling collar. which Laws back
nat from the front. and NAV be covered with
lace or bordered with lace jabot of lace finishing
the neck and extending down the front.
There is straw lace or netted scarf of straw
with fringe. which are placed over satin and are
very effective. They are very finely made. and
are not cheap, consequently only used for rich
bonnets of Tuscan or Leghorn. but upon these
the wide scarf which they cover being rich in
color and gathered with the straw netting in the
center, where it is fastened with a very hand
some and finely-wrought gold clasp the only ad-
ditional ornament-the effect is very good.
A fashionable costume for the Spas is of
shepherds check. trimmed with black velvet
and worn with coarse straw bonnet. faced with
black velvet and trimmed with a soft twisted silk
scarf in larger check. The dress usually has
straight cape to match A quaint idea is the
pilgrim hood and cape, with hood made OF
flne wool, lined with satin and usually in dark
colorS. though the lining may be red or wine
color. or old blue or gold. preferred if not of
the SAME color as the outside. The outfit is
very convenient to slip on in the morning and
may be carried in strap with shawls ard other
things without injury.
There is no aftau,pf in Car,penr 70 follow
1ashlOn In the way it is done i'm America A
dress must be made as fashionably as is con-
slstent with the ideas of its owner but when it
IS made it is worn without alteration. and with
out shame, until replaced by another. There is
sometnlnS, however. that is very charming
about high-class German women and it is the
fepose. the absence of shams and nervous eX-
citement and worry which are. it must be con-
leSSed somewhat characteristic of American
women. Their hair smoothly braided shines
Ike satin, freZe rs only considered excusable
on the very young and powder is unknown: it is
worse than yulgar-it is disreputable. Their
dress has the air of permanancy. which distin-
tinguishes all their belongings: but. while in the
common people this leads to dinginess and
dowdyism. Among the refined it is good true
and harmonious. leading them to avoid fiimsy
geW-gaws. which only cheaper, never enhance.
the effect of dress.
SOME CHARACTERISTIC COSTUMES
An afternoon dress. worn by a German lady
fine and soft. trimmed with soft silk brocadc.
mixture of wine color and olive old blue and
goid. There was nothing novel about the ma
terials which would be considered heavy with
us Tor summer wear; but the costume itself was
very good and the effect of the draperv was en-
HANGED by not being too much cut up it formed
a broad scarf draped seni-diagOnally across the
'front.' and reappeared only in a broad knot and
as cuffs and vest. The dress worn by a
sister OF this lady was peculiar shade of puce
cof frivy
and real lace as jabOt for the neck and ruffies
at the wrist. 1t was very handsome and very
effective, but the skirt had no trimmings save
two narrow thickly-laid pleatings and an in
terror ruffle of lace.
There is total absence in the streets of the
German towns of the white and thin dresses.
which are common in London. and, so far as the
latter are concerned. in New York. But then
ladies are much less frequently seen upon the
streets, and the opportunities for observing
their nome life are not many during a hurried
trip. The difference is very marked, however
in this respect. between New York. London and
the continental cities Women are in the shops
very quietly and neatly dressed; peasant women
and servants are seen walking in the streets.
also the wives of poor artisans but the rich
women certainly do not make habit of walk
ing. and therefore there are fewer opportunities
OF observing their dress. their modes or their
manners. At wedding. which we had the
good fortune to see by pure accident. as we
poSScu CHuICil WHeIe lLe TeirlOuS ceremony
was performed. the civil ceremony having
already taken place, the bride wore a plain
dress of thick white silk. finished round the bot
tom with a triple ruche. but having neither
drapery nor OVcrskirt. The wreath Of Grange
blossoms was carried completely around the
head unmlXed with any other flower. but there
was no veil. A small woman in black accom-
panied the bride in the carriage got out with
her and arranged her dress 1t might have been
her maid Following in another carriage came
two young ladies. possibly sisters. who were
dressed in prettily draped regular Partisan cos
TUNES of pink and blue silk. trimmed with white
lace, and white lace bonnets trimmed with
| flowers. They looked much brighter and hap
pier than the bride. There We're several other
toilets of great be .uty. one of which was of
black Spanish lace. fiUunced. over black satin,
and another of dark olive green satin with an
open work of gold embroidery over POPPY red
satin.
The most characteristic dresses are those which
never change; the dresses Of the peasant women
seen in the market places and sometimes in
groups. as they come in from the country to
make purchases Short. straight full skirts of
dark linseyWOOlsey; straight sleeves and bodies:
thick low shoes, and handkerchief usually
white, doubled and worn as cap, the corner ex-
tending down upon the back, and making COW
ering for the shoulders. This is the dress that
lacks the picturesque French element the winged
cap: but is eminently practical: and it must be
SAID Tor the peasant women. that they look
strong. hardy healthful and bonny. usually.
though saw one yesterday walking beside
donkey. loaded with vegetables. whose face
haunted me for hours, it was SO sad. so like one
OF Milletts S. who has revealed the peasant woman
in her Isolation and hOpelessness
WHAT TO BUY.
There are not many things which it is advan-
tageous to buy in the Belgian or German towns.
but among the few are amethysts and amber.
linen and laces, onyx buttons and some very
beautiful as well as very quaint china This linen is
a JOY to the eyes, and for what We would con-
slider ordinary prices can he obtained such ar
ticles as thrifty hOusekeepers look at longingly
in New York. but dare not think of purchasing.
In the hotel where We are staying the sheets are
pure linen. the cOverlids down. the towels
damask. the table cloths fine as best at home.
and the curtains lace. with ruffied borders inside
others OF cretOnne. The table service is exqui-
site china. part OF MintOn. part of it the product
of the greatest native mandatory. And it is
not Clipped. The house is over an hundred
years old, and many of the servants have been
in its employ twenty-five or thirty years.
The English take home quantities of linen and
| whole cases of china and faience from the Nu-
remburg and Ludwig Vessel manufactures.
but Americans have the fear of the Custom.
hOnSo before their pj,lino1