The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-01-15
New York Fashions.


[Harpers Bazar.]
Owing to the advance of the season, mer-
chants are reducing the prices of their goods
in preference to carrying them over to another
winter; hence the economist who has waited
patiently can now supply herself to the best
advantage. This is true not only with regard
to the reduction of prices, but she can also Sc
lect only those materials that have met with
approval. without running the risk that always
attends the purchase of novelties she can now
buy safely with a view to the needs Of the
next winter, as experience proves that the
fabrics that are the first choice one season are
apt to be the popular goods of the following
year. The safest choice in wool goods is that
of a solid color of dark shade in pure wool.
The twilled woods give best satisfaction, though
flannel-fnished irregularly woven stuffs are
very stylish this season, and these show less
change in price than the twilled stuffs do.
At some of the shops there are twills of good
color, but of very light quality, though pure
| wool, that are sold for 373 cents a yard in
double fold; these are not heavy enough for
substantial dresses, but make useful change
for spring and autumn wear for people who
have little money to spend. 1t is, how
twilled cashmeres armures, or Chuddah cloths
that are several inches wider than those first
mentioned, and may be had for 50 or 70 cents
| yard in stylish shades of plum, garnet green
and black. The handkerchief dresses are also
greatly reduced in price, as these conspicuous
designs must be disposed of during their tran
sient term of popularity. A better selection
for gay wool dresses is found among the bor-
dered wool goods of dark colors with some gay
contrast in border along the selvedge. This
border makes one of the favorito trimmings at
| present for hounces over. skirts, collars, ETC..
and if it should be less popular next year, can
| easily be changed for something else without
marring the dress. The very bright borders
have been most liked by very young ladies'
| and some of the prettiest dresses of the winter
have been of dark green or dull blue twilled
satine. with three or four stripes of bright red
on the pleated founces that cover the back of
the skirt from the belt to the foot, on the
single deep hounce in front, and on the
wrinkled apron above it, The same stripes
are repeated on the collar, cuffs and side
pockets, the only additional trimming neces-
sary being the buttons. Seal brown with
old gold border, olive with old gold, and garnet
with dull blue are also stylish in these bor-
dered dresses. The Cheviots, forty-sx inches
wide, at 81 a yard, in dark patterns of small
checks that give olive brown or green effects,
are tasteful and useful. Many ladies prefer
these to the solid-colored cloths, as the latter
look like hannels, unless the finest qualities
are chosen. The Cheviots are made ap in
severe styles, with the talor-like stitching for
side jacket for walking, made in the English
double-breasted shapes with collar and
cuffs of plush. Imported Cheviot suits made
IN -tondon have -douetcr- -vprovr-across- tho
front and sides, with deeply folded side pleats
the whole length of the back breadths. These
aprons are bordered with silk stitched in
straight rows like quilting, or else they have
stitching without the silk The waist is either
basque of simple shape, or else one with
wide box pleats set upon it, and worn like
blouse with wide belt. Cheviots suits inn
ported from Paris are far more dressy than
those brought from London. The light tan
cream and white checks are chosen in the
furry French Cheviots that resemble camel's
hair cloth, and these are elaborately trimmed
with plush of dark red, golden brown, olive
green, or else dull blue shades. A stylish
dress of this kind is of checked brown
and cream white, with full round skirt open
ing down the front to show broad panel of
cardinal red plush, and border of plush ex-
tends around the edge of the dress, finished
with narrow box-pleatlng OF the plush. An
other, OF furry cream-colored Cheviot woven
in squares, but all of one shade, is made over q
plain skirt of seal brown plush that is edged
with Cheviot box-pleating. The over-skirt
is not looped or draped in any part, but is
even all around, and is pressed in thick per-
pendicular pleats that fall within eight inches of
the bottom of the plush skirt; the lower edge
is widely hemmed, and the open front shows
the plush from the waist down; row of
large pearl buttons and mock button-holes is
down each side OF the open front. The habit
basque has great deal of the plush for trim
ming, and the suit is completed by a plush
muff and round hat OF plush trimmed with
number of brown and cream-colored ostrich
tips. Drab, tan, capucine, and monks brown
are the stylish shades for these wool dresses,
and very dark warm colors are used in the
plush trimmings. Sometimes fur is chosen
for the accessories instead Of plusa-such as
ntta loak hara- and fhncn fr.r
borders are very wide, especially that which
passes around the skirt and up the middle of
the front breath.
To return to fabrics, it is in the brocaded
stuffs that the greatest decrease in prices is
but these must be bought with care, as, like all
figured goods, their reign is far more uncer-
tain than that of the self-rolored plain sur
faces. There are very goJl wool brocades
now sold for 80 cents yard, while those for
81 or $1.25 of mixed silk and wool are of very
} rich qualities, especially when many colors
are introduced, as in the Persian designs. For
repairing dresses that are partly worn, the bro
cades are probably the best materials offered,
but combinations of two fabrics are not COM
mended when both are new, unless two rem
, nants can be utilized in this way that would
not be available otherwise. A double-breasted
basque, with only pearl buttons for trimming,
! is an economical garment when made of bro
cade that is of a color that will serve with the
skirt of one or more partly worn dresses of solid
color. For instance, brocaded wool at so cents
makes stylish basque 20 wear with black
| cashmere skirts, and also with the skirts of a
, green cloth dress that have outworn the basque
: made with them. For 81 yard there are
handsome brocades, especially those of gold
| with red and black, that make beautiful
basques to wear with black silk skirts, or with
any dark wool or cloth skirts left over from
last season. There are alse blue brocades, in
7 both qualities described, that are chosen by
Z | blondes to use with black silk skirts. The
|, Cheviots of tan, gray and brown shades are
chosen for similar purposes, but instead of be-
ing made up as plain basques, they are
| mounted in wide box pleats, and worn with a
wide belt of the material stitched in many
rows; this Cheviot garment Is probably the
most stylish of any OF the inexpensive ways of
replacing the worn waists of dark dresses.
Sometimes dark green, blue, or garnet flannel
| finished cloth is used for these waists by older
| ladies, or else by those to whom the light
, | tinted Cheviots are not becoming. The Jer-
sey waists that have not met with general favor
are now sold very reasonably, and are adopted
: by quite young ladies for furnishing up eco
| nomically dresses that have lost their fresh
ness in the waist and sleeves. A kilt skirt is
!. contrived out of the lower and upper skirt of
l some dark wool dress of last winter, and this
a | is sewed to the edge of Jersey waist that is
bought ready for use for S4 or S5 sash of
cashmere or Surah, or Of polka-dotted silk, is
passed around the hips, and completes the
Q dress. The kilt skirt may be in even small
pleats all around, or in larger side pleats, or it
may be plain in front with wide box pleats be-
hind; indeed, it may be accommodated to the
n cloth in various ways.
For renovating handsome dresses of silk
satin de Lyon, or of velvet, We have already
spoken OF the narrow striped velvets which the
most fashionable modstes use for round coat
: basques. These are shown in black and all
q dark colors for S1.25 to 50 yard, and the only
trimming needed is large buttons. The bro
: caded velvets are also very much reduced in
; price. Plush is still expensive, and does not
4 prove serviceable unless in the costliest quali-
!, | ties.
Q The editor headed an article, Lydia Thomp-
n son robbed" but the printer omitted one and