Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-03-12
MARTYRS OF DRESS.
Aches and Pains that Women Smil-
ingly Endure for Fashions sake.
OBSERVATIONS BY CLARA BsLLE.
IN Y. Cor. Gin. ENQUIRER

IN Y. Cor. Gin. ENQUIRER
Fashion Is pittiless in putting clothes On
women. The comfort OF the wearer ia never
taken into consideration. She must make her
body conform as far as possible to the shapes
OF her garments. and never mind the pinches,
distortions and exposures. To have her waist
compressed and her abdomen held back ia too
those things as a matter Of course. Tight and
high-hee he'd shoes are also an ordinary torment;
loose ones If she would, for IL must be borne in
mind that neat feet are expected or her. Mems
feet are partly covered by their trousers, and
therefore do not show the full size: but
Womtns have no such advantage. and when
visible are seen for sll they are worth. 1t will
not co to enlarge them for the sake OF ease:
nor to lower the heels. for no device that i'm
proves them must be neglected. Going TO the
other end OF a fashionable woman, we find her
head covered or uncovered to suit the passing
caprice OF style; In the present Geld weather,
II she wears a bonnet 1t Is mere strip across
her back hair, affording not the slightest
warmth. She goes with her brain chilled and
her ears aching alongside male escort who is
muified warmly from neck to pate. he condo
scendingIy asks her If she is cold. and she re-
plies, 20, no; I'm as warm as toast being
CAREFUL not to let her teeth chatter. All 81 '1g
the whole length OF herself, betWixt head ani
feet, she is subjected to
ToRTUREs OF DRsss
Pins stick into her In places that she can't
reach at the time: garterS are too tight. and
SlCp VI utOou III uST llUQS, cor
set steels break, and the sharp ends prod her
sides; changes from the flannels OF every day
to the baroness Of evening costumes give her
shivers and neuralgia; her hair pulls fright
fully In spots when elaborately done up; she Is
covered with contriVances of ornament that
man would not bear the annoyance OF, like
tight gloves. heavy earrings and uneven fasten-
ings. l mention these things 80 that the nus
band or father when he sufferingly pays the
bills for fine female costume, may understand
that the wearer is incidentally punished for
her extravaganza.
THE HAIR
is now an object of fashionable solicitude. The
high style OF dressing u vogue five years ago is
struggling to displace the low style which has
for women to let fashion control the arrange
ment Of their hair, since what makes one face
pretty makes the next one ugly; but usage is
law IN this matter, and hence change Is OF
every female head The settlement OF the pres
ent war ought to be the sensible compromise
that each shall! adopt the coi1ure best suited TO
her features. There have been some attempts
to introduce the Oriental comb, but not with
general success. A few wear the high Span
ish comb. but 1t is not particularly effective
without the characteristic mantllla, OF which
it is properly an accessory. The most fash
ionable comb is called the Barrette, and Is about
three inches high fantastic In shape and made
OF gold, silver or shell. An almost equally popu-
lar comb, called the COquette. Is worn with the
hair dressed high up on the head. The top is
of the finest cut steel, and the open work pat
tern Is shaped to sit sidewise among the tower
Ing locks, giving launty air. Bangsa are giving
way to soft, loose rings of hair falling over the
forehead. The Japanese style of coiffure is
sometimes seen though there are very few
women to whom 1t is becoming. 1t consists OF
large pufts, crossed by enormous gold pins and
ODD ornaments and requires great quantity
OF false hair to form gigantic chignon. The
long discarded bunch or curls is again seen at
the back OF the neck; but, as have already
said, the tendency is to pile up the hair atop OF
the head, and to return TO Pompadour rolls.
REACTION IN DANCING
has set In at the close OF the season. The
racket waltz, and its many grotesQue modifica-
TONS are seen so rarely that those who In
dulge In them are very conspicuous In their
antics. The old, easy, undemonstrative waltz,
| with not too frequent reverSalS. is the style OF
| round dancing now most In vogue in polite
society.
The latest freak In jewelry Is to wear great
number OF bangles On one arm, with dangling
and rattllng Charms OF various kinds, and on
inches broad and half an inch thick. Insect
| jewelry holds Its popularity, and new designs
In beasts heads, each more htdeouS than its
predecessor, are brought out daily. Cats-eye
brooches are In high favor. Coral Is said to be
| coming in.
A new use for the Jersey is coming into FASH
ion. This clinglng yet easy garment is wholly
| out OF favor for public wear, but for the house
it is to some extent taking the place Of The
| wrapper. 1t forms bodice at once perfect 10
| ut, easily adjusted, yielding to the movements
VI uc uCuy, anu Iedully auaptaple 10 various
! skirts. Thin women can wear 1t presumably
| with no corset underneath, and f1chu of some
| sort crossed over the bosom relieves the plain
ness sufficiently, If the wearer's modesty is
| the jersey is decidedly DeW1tching article JoI,
| well shaped Womau 20 ppt on. 1t is ready
| for wear when bought; out a velvet peleri1c
| and cuffs, OF hood lined with come bri ,ht
| color, will greatly enhance Its STYLE 4 xii ed
| skirt with scarf over drapery, is the ordin ary
! adjunct CLARA belle.