, 1881-03-06
LIMA,
The Capital of Peru, Now In the Hands
of The EIiilIlDks


1Tftten for The FhfuHo Tribune bY OMccr Of the
Cni:eI Stutts Niru.
The present unhappy condition OF affairs in
Peru forcibly recalls contrasting circumstances
that came under my observation some yeurs
ago. when the vessel the Saginaw, Oh which I
was an officer came to anchor uudcr the Ice of
Sun Lorenzo Island. i'll the Harbor Of Callao.
The Peruvians were then in great ylee ut their
receut victory over Spanish feet, whose ves-
sells were formidable opponents, but neverthe-
less powcrless to cope with the batteries Oh tho
shore. We remained in this port fifteen days. a
portion of which time the Saginaw was lying be-
tween tie United States flagship Lancaster nnd
the English flagship LIE andcr wbile nearer the
shore was anchored the United States double
eEdcr Wuterec. Hundreds Of vessels of all na-
tions occupied tie bay, conspicuous among
which were the beautiful war-steamers Of the
Peruvian navy, MI Of which were destroyed last
month by the ChtlinnS, whose neet with neutral
vessels, now entirely occupy the bay.
During our sojcurn In this peaceful harbor, SO
well protected by the islands and the peninsula
from fierce south winds. nothing happened to
disturb the serenity of our surroundings, which
wcr. truly welcome after rough pussage from
Panama. Leaving the latter place ut daylight
Aug. IL, we " "crosscd the line " OIL tho 18th,
where. instead of the hot weather which is gen
orally understood to prevail in this locality, we
experienced quite the reycrse. In fact, it Wns
SO cool that blankets we're required at night, and
oyercoats in the daytime greatly contributed to
our comfort. After passing the Equator, the
sea became more bosterous and the wind more
chilling, until within two days. sail OF Calao.
Instead of Hocks Of sca-gulls, which usually
follow vessels in the Northern Hemisphere. we
now had the beautiful aud graceful Cape Horn
pigeons soaring above us, which kept us COM
pacy until rounded the Horn and nsain
rlparpH the *O1fntOr flT the Atlantic.
The Bay Of Callao is formed By the Island Of
San Lorenzo, which is separated from the main
land By narrow pnssage of water. This island
is now the prison Of nearly 1905 Peruvian soldiers
captured by the victorious Chilians; while the
shores present a sicaenIng spectacle Of the hor-
rors OF WAT. human debris greeting you atcvcry
turn,-the mutilated remains of the thousands
Of men that were strewn the rcon not having
been yet entirely removed. These remnants Of
mortality will not remain long, however. as the
great yulture Of the Andes Is wA1chtng from
nights a1l robed IN snow, coGyal with crea ton,
the putrcfyins refuse Of this neither world; and
his keen glance, always surveying tho surface Of
the earth, will not be long in discovering this
dainty prey. The vulture Of the Andes deserves
more than passing glnnce. Soaring fur above
the thunder-clouds this rnyenous bird sails
n!nng. but never Stops his wing unless ut tho
call Of hunger, when he is lured from bis home
in the dark blue heavens and descends from hisn
dizzy nights. The wonderful history Of the
yusturo OF the Andes rivals that Of grilfins and
dragons in fictitious attributes anu cxtrnva-
CANT cx.ggerat.ous: and legendary lore
ascribes to it wonderful atmospheric disturb
ances that once hurled avalanches from the
mountains and buried yillngcs below,
The City of Callao was plainly distinguished
from tie Bay, with its volumes Of smoke from
factories und machfnc-seDps; but these nre
silent nov under the stern rule of martial law.
while starvation aud death are confronting their
victims almost us ruthlesly as the sword. Like
all commercial cities. the waterfront Of Callao
presented
to-day it. is the hustle and confusion conse-
queut uoon war. A short distance from the
principal landing is the raflrOad-dcPot nenr
which stands the castle containing tho arsenal,
which is still safe and sound, In spite Of tho
elosts o of denor!Sed M P9punse 70 destroy it.
This decentralization of people usually so or
derby seems Incredible. as Spanish courtesy
never forgets itself. even in Il frenzy. Of this I
have been frequent witness and especially ot,
one Occasion, when at least 4,0oJ people assem-
blcd at concert in the open air There was no
jamultng or crushing, every one seeming dis
posed to make way for his ueighbor,-conse-
quently rendering the affair satisfactory and
pleasant AND uiso thought our pushing, el-
bow ns Americans would do we'll to luke pattern
from this example.
Cailuo is the seaport OF Lima, which lies IN
land about six or seven miles. The two cities
are joned by railroad. the line of which
Is marked by many interesting scenes.
Travelling short distance, we see cross which
WIS erected to designate the place to which Il
Spanish frigate was carried by Il rush of waters
from the bay during Il great earthquake. A
uuSc swell Oi luG SCH tuGn iDfGrWQGlfIeu the
shipping in the harbor aud tfle greater portion
Of the city in instantaneous destruction, and
landed the f-igatc nearly mile from the shore.
On both sides OF the rOnd are seen places
rendered historical by events which occurred at
the time Of the conquest OF Peru by Pizarru;
among which are churches, converts, ald gar
dens founded by the advcnturrr. Fields Of corn
and gr,iin, orchards Of peach-trces and other
fruits incident to L Temperate Zoue, welcome
the eye of one who has long been accustomed TO
bunanas ornnges. ard other Tropical produc-
lions. aud who has been obliged to consider ap-
pies and peaches as us,..ttainaole Iuxur!es-
Arriving in LIMA. found the streets rather
narrow, but lined with fine stores and buildings
Of elaborate construction, many OF them denot-
Ing great antiquity. The style OF private resi-
dences is peculiarly nttractive,-the entrances
being through ide-a1ched gateways Of stone,
whose sides are ornamcntcd with frescoes, many
of them of great size. and generally illustrating
religious subjects. Passing through these, the
front-doors are approached through gardens or
court-yarus,, often containing fountains and
statues and surrounded By balconies covered
with sp!rals OF tropical bloom. The dwellings
are furnished IN the most sumptuous nanner,-
the floors being covered with carpets of richest
designs. ana tic walls hung with costly tapestry
and magnificent paintings
The great feature OF Lima is its grand SQUARE
Tia Plaza Grande), measuring about 600 feet each
fountain, surrounded by beds Of howers urns
and vases continuing hAngtng vines mud statues
raised aloft OH marble pedestals. On two sides
Of the Plaza the pavement iics under contin-
ued series of arcades, surmouatea by balconies
md far hrf1ar rho