The Portland daily press., 1881-04-28
THURSDAY MORNING, APRIL 2s.
have gay bayadere-striped scarf or kerchief
folded caralaSsv around the croun

have gay bayadere-striped scarf or kerchief
folded careleSsly around the crown
Very large round hats with wide faring
brims, not wired, but turned up most in front,
are worn far back on the head, especially by
girls who wear bang on the forehead
THESE come IN the rough straws in Panama
bralds, and In chips, and are trimmed with two
or three pompons and two rows of thick cord,
when the rough braid is used For the Pana-
ma braids, striped Surahs and wide ribbons
are liked, while for the more dressy chips
there are many small ostrich tips around the
crown, or else single long plume. One of the
newest round hats, called the Olivette, has
the brim curling upward and outward all
around, except far behind on the right side,
where it suddenly projects in sharp point
down toward the shoulder This gay little hat
is most often trimmed with feathers. The
new porcupine straws, with stiff projecting
loops of braid ARE very effective when trimmed
with long loops OF ivory satin ribbon, two or
three white silk pompons in a cluster on the
left side, and TOR the facing of the brim, vel
vet OF some becoming color, such as garnet,
dark blue, brown olive or black, to frame the
face and be an effective background for the
delicate tints in the childs face and hair. The
creamy yellow Tuscan braidS and Leghorns
are made into both pokes and flats for very
dressy wear, with white satin and feathers for
trimming. There are also little poke-bonnets
and round hats for very small girls, made of
row after row of pleated Breton lace, mounted
on frame, and trimmed with feathers and
flowers High pointed crowns are seen on
some OF the rough straw round hats, and these
have row of silk pompons at the base, while
the stiff brim is lined with velvet
Ginghams are in half-inch stripes, or else in
two-inch plaids of a single color with white.
These may be made with three box pleats from
the neck down, sewed permanently half the
length of the skirt, then falling open, and
trimmed with wide edging of Hamburg en-
broidery in very open patterns A deep round
collar of this work, with square cuffs of the
same t"rned up outside, gives style to this lit
tie dress. Other ginghams are cut low square
neck without sleeves, and are worn over
white guimpe of pleated muslin. Solid pink
or blue Chamberys are made in this way, and
are laid in box pleats scarcely an inch wide
from the neck nearly to the foot.
Flannels and Cheviot dresses for Spring, and
linens and piques for Summer, are made for
fasten in front; one of the best shapes is
straight double-breasted garment, with very
wide box pleats the entire length Of the back
and two in front, with two rows of buttons
down the middle. The collar is deep and
square, and this, with the cuffs and wide belt,
may be of a different color; the belt passes un-
der the box pleats, and is buckled in 'front.'
More elaborate pique dresses have insertions of
embroidery or of linen lace let in down the
front, with pleating behind; still others have
brocaded-looking designs in the pque
or else small blocks like satin squares are WOW
en- in, while many have embroidery done d.
rectly on the repped material. Thinner white
dresses are of creamy null shirred at the neck
and at the waist in Mother Hubbard clusters,
and trimmed with many-looped bows of two
kinds OF satin ribbon, such as rose with blue,
pink with red, or cream with garnet. Twill
striped linen lawns and striped muslins are al
so made Up in this way for Summer.
Very wide sashes of 0nlbre Surah cut length
wise, or else the broad shaded ribbons, are
chosen to shade from pink to dark red, or sky
blue to dark blue, to be worn with white prin-
cesse dresses. The sash is put in many folds
Tar below the waist around the figure, and may
De tied IN large bow behind, or in dropping
loops ON the left side. On many dresses there
are three or four straps of insertion, finished
on each side with edging sewed lengthwise on
the dress, and the sash is passed through these
For wool and silk dresses the Greek polo
naise is used for larger girls. This fits the
waist like Jersey, IS laced behind, and is
drawn up high on the left side Sometimes
this has the Marguerite pulled sleeve and
when made of white wool, looks like the Mar
guerite dress in Faust. 1t is, however, more
garnet cashmere Topped up to disclose a skirt
OF bayadere-striped Surah that has In it every
color OF the rainbow. Sometimes block silks
Of two colors are used for these skirts, such as
red with green, or blue with red. There are
two ribbons used to loop the polonaise of these
dresses; these are passed around the hips. and
knotted in long loops where the skirt is caught
up on the left side. The darker ribbon is on
the outside, and the lighter ribbon is laid in
side it, to show on the edges like facing.
Dark green nuns yelling is stylish fabric for
misses dresses, and French modistes trim it
quantity with pleatings of pale blue and paler
pink Surah around the foot, while quantities
OF point d'esprit lace are gathered for trim
mings about the waist. These inexpensive
laces are pretty garnitures for wool and silks
alike.
For palmer wool dresses large girls have
Cheviots and fiannels made with the SINGLE
breasted hunting jackets that have but one
wide double box pleat down the middle of the
back, and two broad single box pleats in front.
The over-skirt is of the round apron shape SO
long worn, and this, like the skirt beneath,
has rows of machine stitching for its only
trimming.
Imported wraps for girls are Mother Hub
bard capes shirred around the neck, and also
shoulder mantles that barely cover the Shout |
ders behind. being cut off quite straight across,
and with long straight tabs in front. The |
folded kerchiefs and fichu-shaped garments
are also shown in as elaborate fabrics as those
worn by ladies', but Jackets and Ulsterettes are
preferred by American girls and are shown in
most convenient and useful shapes. The box
pleated and belted hunting jacket of Cheviot
is in great favor as an outside wrap for school.
girls, and is worn with q wide belt to which
bag is attached. The Ulsterettes most liked
have shoulder cape or else the deeper Have
lock cape reaching to the waist line, and open
up the middle of the back; these listers have
deep pleats down the skirt in the back, and
pockets on the hips.