The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-09-08
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
Trimmed Bonnets for Autumn.

The pokes, small bonnets, and large round hats
of which importations of French millinery con-
sist, have distinctive trimmings that depend
entirely upon the size and shape of the bon
nets. Feathers are used on them all, and this
is the only feature they have in common.
For pokes the object is to display the outlines
of the bonnet, hence the ribbons are placed
very fatty, and the feathers curl away from
the side instead of being clustered against 1t
and concealing it. Plush and velvet are the
materials most used for pokes and these are
smooth on the frame, the shirred interiors be-
ing less used than formerly. Contrasting col
ors are chosen for lining brims, and this is OF
shaded plush, or else of very long pile plush OF
a becoming shade, as crevette; or to complete
such bonnet it is enough to use watered O.
satin ribbon three or four inches wide, double
it across the back of the crown, fasten it with
flat-headed gilt pin on each side, and let it
fall thence in strings. Then on the left side is
a very large pompon of ostrich feathers of the
color of the plush, above which are two short
ostrich tips that curl outward from the bonnet.
Other pokes have the ribbon passed up from
behind the crown, Tapped on top, and tied in
stiff old-fashioned bow that lies on the right
side, thence passing down as if to tie the
sides close to the head, and then forming
strings. A long-looped bow with the loops
dropping softly and short ends fastens the bon
net under the chin. Sometimes the ribbon
bow is tied at the top of the crown on the left
side, and its two loops are sewed fatty on the
back of the crown; this bow seems to hold the
panache of feather tips, which curl outward
and forward on the left side, and may consist
of any number from two tie six, or even eight.
For young faces nothing can be prettier than
the pokes of moss green plush with rose pink
lining next the face, and both colors repeated
in the feathers, while for the more elderly,
the orange and dark ruby facings will be used
with old silver colors outside, or brown, scabl-
euse, or myrtle green. A ruche OF ostrich
feathers en- the edge of poke is also becom-
ing, warm-looking, and tones the complexion.
The beaver and felt pokes sold in the shops
are trimmed in the simple styles just des-
cribed, and now that ribbon is used. great
many ladies will be successful with their own
millinery.
For small bonnets the foundations are larger
than those worn last year, and the trimmings
are much fuller than any seen on pokes The
brims are slightly raised above the front hair,
and may be lined with shirred velvet or with
| striped or ssploughed' plush, and the edge of
faceted beads either of jet or of the colors used
| in the bonnet, and these beads are tied togeth-
err with gilt cord by the milliner as she sews
| them on. Bias plush, laid in corrugated folds
| is outside the brim of small bonnets, while the
crown is fiat. Plumes nodding out from the
crown on the left, or very large aigrette or
pompon, and some. fanciful ornaments of old
silver or polished brass or metal in the shape
of insects or long pins, complete the trimming.
The strings are invariably of ribbon-plush,
satin MORE or changeabie satin Surah. If rib
bon is used for trimming, it has the effect of
Alsacian bows, though merely placed in two
rows, broadened at the ends instead of being
Topped Laces also have the same Alsacian
| effect given by pleating in clusters on each
| side of the front. Pleated brims are seen on
| many velvet bonnets, and there are some cap
crowns, though smooth crowns, beaded crowns
| and feather crowns, especially those OF the
! golden pheasant, are preferred. The new
chenille and guipure lace is also prettily mass
ed on the crown or else allowed to fall over the
edge of the brim in becoming way. Chenille
and plush flowers OF large size, roses, dahlias,
nastertiums, asters and lilies are clustered on
the left side of the bonnet quite high up, in
stead of dropping as they formerly did.
The Longcyhamps, Bolero and Gainsbor-
ough round hats are familiar. These are of
velvet, plush, beaver or felt, and are trimmed
with feathers, birds and bias scarfs of plush or
velvet, with some guipure and chenille lace.
The accordion crown is the novelty for such
hats. This is four-cornered piece, stiffiy
lined, and resting upon folds like those of the
accordian. The effect is pretty in black vel
vet, with the brim lined with solid jet gal
loon, edged with large faceted jet beads, and
many nodding ostrich tips outside.
The colors chosen by the best Paris houses
for illustrating the new styles are myrtle green
and bronze shades in preference to all others;
next there are naodore, the rich gold brown, and
the various red shades, such as copper, mahog-
any, sultane and other brick-dust colors, be-
sides the claret, ruby, cardinal and garnet
hues. Shrimp pink, pale blue and pure white
not cream white-are for evening bonnets.
Pheasants' feathers are perhaps more used
than all others except those Of the ostrich.
The ornaments show the quaintest French ca
paices. Steel beads are pdSse, but the others
will be largely used New black guipure laces
have satin cords all through the fig ures or else
chenille threads raise the outlin es of the de-
sign. Black Spanish laces have their large
patterns solidly beaded with fine jet.
A new darned lace for lingerie and for dress
I trimming is called Mauresque. 1t is darned
similarly to Breton lace, but in holder designs
that nearly cover the net foundation, and has
scalloped edges with picot finish, which is bet
ter known as purl edging. Tunis lace is a
new and effective heavy lace for edging linen
collars, and for thick fabrics that require the
lace laid upon the goods plainly without gath
ers. The novelty for neck scarfs for the street
is dotted net with the dots as large as silver
quarter of dollar, and this is not only in
black and in white net, but in a rich color of
single shade or else 0nl0re, and the spots may
be flat or of raised chenille, or else beaded.
With the exception of steel beads, all kinds
of beads will be used again in paSsementeries
and other trimmings, such as net with bead
embroidery. Open patterns OF embroidery in
the designs called English and sometimes Sax
on embroidery are now imported i'll cashmere
and other woolenS for dress trimmings. Piece
silks are also embroidered in the same way
across the widths for fronts of skirts, and the
embroideries for garnitures vary from those
two or three inches wide to very broad fiounces
that are covered with this open-work.
New bias ties to be worn as cravat bows or
soft twilled silk in new combinations of colors
especially bronze or myrtle green with red land
golden brown with orange. There are also
foulard neck ties with figures and flowers that
look like hand-painting strewn over green, red,
or claret-colored grounds. The new necker-
chiefs are made of this gay foulard, and give
pretty touch of dark color 10 autumn toilettes.
Blue null neck ties with white polka dots or
rings and white null scalloped edges are much
worn with black costumes in the morning.
White null ties and neckerchiefs are still pop
ular, but there is also fancy for dispensing
with all null or lace lingerie for simple toll
cites in the daytime, and wearing the plainest
linen collar, shaped like a clerical band and
fastened by slender brooch of silver or of
gold. New bows of Tunis lace are made up
with null laid in pleatings, strapped in the
middle, and turned over at the top from each
side. The lace is on the top and bottom, and
sheer linen handkerchiefs with narrow col
ored hens. Plastrons or guimpes for surplice
dresses are made of net, down which are five
rows of very fully pleated lace, and many
loops of narrow ivory white satin ribbon This
ivory white and shrimp pink are the colors