Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1881-05-19

GiN6HAms As THE fAvoRlTE FOR
49, THIS YEARS DRESSES.
The Popular Style Of Making Ihem-An
Attractive Modsl-Sateen Suits
Linen busters Again
10 the Fore.


TO the Fore.
Cotton dress fabrics are shown in
quantities this season, and wash dresses
are numberless, ranging from calico
wrappers at ninety cents each 10 be-
witching suits in satines at SIS, or high
er where the dress is made to order and
fan and parssol to match accompany it.
Gipghams are q furore. Last year
they were popular; now they are uni
yersally worn, and, having fully estab-
lished their claim to beauty and dura-
bility, rank as standard goods. The
variety in which they are shown is be-
wildering-large plaids and tiny checks;
French combinations in daring gayety
Of color and sober hair stripes; broken
plaids, which give ombre effects, shad-
ing from dark red to palest pink or from
navy blue to delicate azure; solid giDg'
hams in dark blue and green and diago-
nal stripes, with broad bands of coior
in blue aud pink shading into each 9TH
er through soft grays. The best choice
in these are the honest Scotch ging
hams, which hold their color as long as
thread OF them il left, and which en-
dure the ordeal OF the washtub unfading
to the last. Good American giughams,
at half the price Of the Scotch, are also
to be recommended, and these also are
fast eolors, but the lower grades, espe-
cially in blue are not to be trusted.
A popular manner OF making gingham
dresses is with pleated jacket and plain
round skirt, trimmed to the knee or
above it with deep killings OF the mater
ial. Sometimes these killings are bor-
dered with a wide band Of plaid, and
deep collar with plaid border, plaid
cuffs, ond plaid belt trim the jacket.
Other ginghams are made with plain
round overskirt with tapes run in the
side seams, forming sensible shirred
drapery, which may be easily let out
for washing. Such a suit is OF hair
striped dark blue in the pattern so pop.
ular for gentlemen's summer coats, with
border OF check in pale blue. The
BASQUE is half fitting, with border
down each front and around the edge.
Cuffs, collar and belt of check complete
the garniture OF the basque. The skirt
has kilt pleating Of the material head
ed by q check band, and the overskirt is
finished by border on the edge and
two bands of check down the centre OF
both front and back.
Other ginghamg yet are made with
tight fitting basque-coat or skirted, as
the case may be. while the trimming,
either OF striped border woven on the
gingham or OF plaid is vasled in many
ways. A stylish mode in sober stripe
has killed fiOuuces to the very edge OF
the basque, where they are met by
wide band of gay plaid. Similar bands
edge each pleating, and the deep round
collar has q narrow border OF the same
plaid. At the back OF the basque is a
sort OF sash formed Of a half square of
plaid, caught through the middle with
a loose strap and forming two pointed
ends. Bingham suits, ready-made, be-
gin as low as S4.75 and range to SIS.
Those at the latter price are profusely
trimmed with cream.tinted lace in the
new styles-cotton, guipure, yermicelli,
Russian laces, etc. Ladies to whom
money is no object select fine Scotch
ginghams or the still worn expensive
French zephyrs and have them trimmed
with real Russian lace. The lace edges
the overskirt, or il the skirt be tiounced,
the fiounees, except that on the very
bottom OF the dress.
A very stylish model is OF zephyr in
pink and blue. The short round skirt
has killing set on to, not upon, the
skirt. The overskirt has a much wrin-
killed. apron front edged with Russia lace
and a boutfant sash drapery at the back
formed of two sashes edged with lace
artistically twisted in and out. The
BASQUE is round, short shape, with
bias band and lace around the edge, and
on this, under the lace, is side pleat-
ing OF Bingham six inches deep,
The new diagonal-striped ginghams
are very effective, but require great care
in making up, since unless the stripes
meet exactly down the middle, forming
points back and front, the dress is spoil
ed. This diagonal effect is reported TO
be very popular with the dressmskers
abroad, and it is said that Worth and
Felix are cutting dress waists on the
bias, a plan which gives a smoother and
/ easier tit across the bust, but which
must none the less be horribly slretchy
| i'm wearing. Satines grow in favor every
day and distractingly pretty dresses are
made Of them. The soft effect and the
pretty Pompadour designs suggest Wat.
| teau's pictures, Dresden china, and
other dainty fancies OF the like sort
| They are almost invaribly made OF plain
and figured material combined, and,
therefore, plain sateen is shown to
match every figure on the merchants
shelves. Imported sateen suits are OF
| pale-blue, or else cream sateen in a SIM
gle color woven in hslf-inch stripes.
| They are trimmed with wide, heavy
white Russian lace and dark-red satin
| RIBBON. These have the smoothly-titted
Jersey polonaise, buttoned behind, yet
| so trimmed by the lace which outlines a
/ basque on the front that it gives the
effect OF a basque and overskirt. The
| polonaise is caught very high on one
| side with bunch OF red ribbons, and
the lower skirt has very wide bias
hounce edged with lace and shirred
twice at the top to form puffs. The
standing collar is shirred, also the cuffs,
A red bow is at the throat, and two
| ribbons at the wsist-line under the lace
are tied in bow. The back is fast ned
by pearl buttons.
Quite different from these are the
olive-green or wine-colored sateens used
plain and shirred all over for the skirt,
while the basque and drapery are print
ed to represent tiny plaques Of six or
eight different patterns on one piece OF
goods. Deep fringe of cotton threads OF
all the colors in the printed fabrics, with
also some gold threads, trims the over
skirt, and, Of course, prevents the dress
from being washed by an ordinary
laundress, though the French scourers
cleanse these fabrics by what they call
"dry pressure" A charming combina-
ton is pink and blue Pompadour pat
tern, combined with solid pink. Tie
skirt is trimmed with narrow knife
nIaading and tnrks nlsin and fipprad