Saturday press. [volume] (Honolulu, H.I.) 1880-1885, 1881-01-15

the sewing machine one OF the most IN
gonious and perfect labor-snving contrivan-
COS ever known Scores of rival inventions
made their appearance from timo to time,
each possessing some distinguished chnrac-
tcristo or peculiar advantage large works
for the Wholesale production of sewing
machines were established both in Europe
and the United States; and thousands of
skilled workmcn found rcmuncrativo cm-
ploymout in the new branch of industry
thus unexpectedly created. Still the do.
mand continued to increase moro rapidly
than the means of supply, especially in
America, where tho deficiency of labor on
tho part of women and girls had long re-
tnrdod tho development of many branches
of manufacturing enterprise. Even Mt tho
present time, when upwards OF 100000
sewing machines nro estimated ns being in
general uso III various parts of tho civilized
world, there appear 10 indications of any
decline in tho rate of production.
With the general appearance of tho sew
ing machine in its present form, tho public
are tolorably familiar. Whatever may DO
the principle on which il is constructed, it
consists of u small metal platform or table,
from one end of which rises nm arm. This
arm, extending over the PLATFORM has at
its extremity the arrangements for alter
nately raising and depressing the uccdlc,-
the parts connected with the seiang of tho
thread and the formation thereby of n COM
pleto stitch being placed under that por-
ton of tho metal platform into which tho
needle dcsccnds. Tho whole is set in
motion by wheel, placed Mt the left end
of the machine, and worked either by hand
l,. r.
power, according to circumstances. The
three principal kinds of stitch formed by tho
sewing machine arc tho clock stitch" the
double-chain STITCH" and the single
loop" or chain-sttch.' Tho clock
stitch " is formed by two threads the upper
one being carried by needle with it's eye
near the point. This needle is driven
through the fabric, carrying the thread
with it. The needle is then partially with
drawn, so rs to form n loop of the thread
underneath the fabric. Through this loop
the under thread is passed by means either
Of shuttle or n revolving hook or circular
needle, the former being the most frequent
ly employed. When the under tire ID is
thus, either by shuttle or hook, passed
through the loop the needle is wholly with.
drawn, carrying up the loop thread, and
with it the under thread, forming lock in
the center of the fabric. This description
of stitch was first introduced in 1885 by
Mr.. Walter Hunt, of New York, but there
being no apparatus for producing the neces-
sary tension to tighten the stitches, the
machine proved useless. In the sewing
machines now in use, the desired tension,
both of the upper and lower threads is
affected by singularly ingenious arrange
ment, which, however, cannot be properly
explained without the aid of drawings.
The "single- chain stitch " is formed in
something of the same manner as
crochet stitch-the needle, with fine
hook at the end like crochet needle,
being passed through the fabric, the thread
being placed in the hook. The hook is
then withdrawn, carrying loop of the
thread through the last previously formed
loops, so as to interchain the several loops
one with another. The double chain I"
stitch is formed with two threads. The
upper thread and needle are the same as in
the " lock-stitch machine, but the under
thread is worked by looper, which is of
curved form, having two eyes with a
groove between them, in which the thread,
supplied from bobbin on the under side
of the platform, lies. This provides for
the constant supply to the needle of an
open loop, which passes on the inside of
the head of the looper. During the descent
of the needle the looper is withdrawn in
circular direction leaving loop of its
thread round both the needle and the loop
of the needle thread, which is still tight
against the needle. AS the needle is with.
drawn, this loop, by the friction of the
thread with the fabric, bulges ont, and
before the eye of the needle has assembled
above the point of the looper, the latter
returns and passes loop of the under
thread through this needle loop.
Most of the sewing machines in general
use are now provided with certain applian-
ces or extra arrangements for special work,
principally the invention of Frenchman
named Chaplin - moro particularly for
hemming, tuckng and binding. There is
also machine for button-holes, besides
numerous others constructed for certain
descriptions of industry, such as sewing
straw plat, the soles of boots and shoes,
and the like. There is indeed scarcely any.
thing that the most skillful and experienced
sempstress can perform with her needle
which cannot be done much better and
more cheaply by tho sewing machine. AS
regards speed, the machine possesses an
enormous advantage over the hand, being
able to make from 500 to 800 stitches per
minute, while the largest number which an
expert needlewoman can make in the same
space of time is from twenty-five to thirty.
Moreover, the sewing machine never be-
comes weary, but can continue producing
this enormously large number Of stitches
as long as it's owner pleases; whereas an
hour or two would suffice to exhaust tho
strength of sempstress endeavorng to
make thirty stitches per minute. AT the
time of the great exhibition in 1862 it was
estimated that, at the lowest computation,
one machine was equal to five hand-work-
ers but since that time the improvements
effected have been so numerous aud of SO
comprehensive character that it may be
said, without the slightest danger of exag-
geration, that one machine in the hands of
a skillful worker can do as much, in n CIV
on space of time, as eight or ten ordinary
neodlewomen. Scarcely less important than
the speed with which the stitches are made
is their wonderful regularity aud perfect
character. No human fingers, whowever
skillful, can equal, much less surpass, the