Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-01-29
FASHION WRINKLES.

band ar ~ofa by ladies'
PARi' o>@'15 10 have sITIeit OF plush, ac-
coTding 10 ths latest di jpi-c1e3
TAN-CoIORED gloves az WON as full dress
Tor mornin. receptions ard at tue opera
TIgHrLT GL9vsD HANDS. sttT and. ss It were.
paral}ztd IN their Kid castings. are no Longer
considered elegant.
SrRAH SILK lasts longer than either linen OF
COtt IN. ana l. therefore very economical ma
terial FOR urdergarments.
DRESS Us designed especially for the house are
nlade with the Corsage either neart-shaped OF
square. anu much soft lace Is worn.
BROADWAY TiIl1ner has mirrors placed in
tie show window, so that ladies' WHO pause to
admire the ooDnetS may also criticiss the,r
cy n.
SOhbBGDT suggests that warming pans and
blast furnaces and decorated fire. places would
De pretty designs for the little SILK and lace
NUTS.
BRAInED CaaIR SEATS are really fashionable
They ere made from nice pieceso OF silk or )olan
sewed together Ike mats. aad bordered With
velvet
TIE PasEIs of folding do1rs ace rreau .ntIy
adorned with paintings arranged SO a5 90 hIr-
monte with the wall paper, ID 1agh differing
from II.
PzARL NECKLACES are In gre II reuusst 20 az
company the very light colors OF the dam .sz
basques al present In hiGn favor for evening
dresses
The CLOCKS Oh old blankets are used as de-
signs for embroidery on DIOR curt Ans. The
stitches are taken In the sane way as th1S, on
the blankets. and the colors are very carefully
selected.
SUMMER Fans may be light ani airy, but win
ter fans should be cheerful and bright, for even
In heated BALLROOM one cannot forget that the
snow lies white on the ground. Holly red
sa'in emb oil 1ered with cTySIal-baad tccIes Ia
Iretty. for Instance
APRONS (Clara Belle writes from New York;
Ct all kinds OF fi1e stuff are fancy OF the pass-
ing moment. The most fashionable are Greek
and Roman style, being really nothing bit a
straight, sC trf like piece OF SILK satin velvet
lace, Sarah. or any other rich and ha1dso ne
material followed ont at the waist lined 10 Dit
The person, and embroidered or trimmed at the
lower t0te with bands or beaded embroidery
ana hinges, or lace Fancy cords aud taSSel5
attach these aprons 70 the walSL aud fa5ten the
ends forIn"d by the holl1wIng out for the waist,
over the tOGrHure In the back. For afternoon
tea parties as well as for evenings at home
girls wear aprons formed entirely OF flowers
Sewed Hat or tarlaJan or Julle foundation. They
also make fanclful aprons OF SILK null, border
ed with lacN frillS. On some OF these. Ii the
wearers b b fro,he1 appear In embroidery or
flowers the In0n0gramS OF their afnaQced hu5-
bands. Their nam mas, m aintim1 wear long
Roman or Greclan aprons OF black Or c)lorei
satin, decorated in the manner already de
Scrtbed or with gold braid and gold Ia "a. These
aprons are generally made at home. and on
them are bestowed great deal OF the prevail
Ing craze for art needIework. s ,u1e women thus
wear In their laps the hard LABOR OF weeks
results that are sometimes beautiful and some
times hiGSOI9.
THE FASHION IN MOURNING DaEss.-Hanr-
eta cloth and imperial serge are the staple
fabrics for the first dresses worn as deep mourn-
Ing. O4e II these n 2tertalS is chosen, no mat
Ter In VIVA season OF the year it Is to be worn
and it has The advantage OF being suitable for
all stages or mourning. according to the trim
ming u5+1: tgdee6 many ladies' wlan Dire sing
IN coiors prefer one OF these cloth-ike sturs for
black dres SeH. Henrietta cloth IS finely twi;le1
and Is or mixed silk and wool: Is is a do IDLE
fold. forty inches wide, and costs from s. TO 8
yard. Mourning dresses are mad in simple and
severe styles. - with refer 80 the designs
levy English fashions e' thai 0es We're for or
lnerly aJopled have been superseded by
lighter French styles, aud the Gus
deep M utning fOf a shorter period than was
formerly done, especially In large families and
by those WHO put on black for even the most
very high at the throat, with closely fitted
sleeve, Is Imperative, ana the fuli round skirts
without oyer5hirtS but with hanging slshes
front drap ~, and reyer5 are very ap 3rnoriate
FOR mourning attire. But the double folds OF
crSre formerly seen on such dress skirts and
The black Grape collars and cGtTS OF tue waist
are LOW 40 sii,hed. TIE folds nave given plac'
10 ands. or single layer or Grape, cut always
on the bias, yet giving the appearance OF
h ng Straight, because this makes the
Irinkies or the Grape perpendc liar; the heavy
only mad 10 order for those who Will no
relnqut>A Fhem- IL their stead are tiuted OF
pieateI irii', or English Grape OF crepe li5sa,
or OF the move dressy Brussels net. La man.
instances this black trimming for the neck Is
not used CT all after the funeral, as tt Is IN
wholesome. White llsse peatings or crlmpe1
frill5, and sLeeT Organdy C0l.ar3 AID cuffs VIII
wide heIIS are then adopted. aud worn unit
linen Is pa On. 0ne of the simple STYLES for
making skirts or black wool dresses, such as
Henrietta cloth or serge, has the back very
fun indeed and without even the narrrowest
peatlng at the foot. la font are Two
bands OF Grape set on narrow cores OF the
WOOL goods and Tapped al the waist Ia front,
spreading open obi!1uely toward the foot,
Wnere they disappear under Grape pie ltin r.
English Grape doubled over silk Is The ma.
teriai made up for deep mourning Donnets in
the winter snd without the mreriiniag of SILK
In the simmer. THESE follow the small shape
That prevails for cOlored bOnnets, and have
only trimming. The broad, smooth crown
sometimes has narrow folds In Jhe lower edge
but Stih curtain band Is more usei; the
strings are of lustreless gros grain rio.
folds placed On the bonnet when nrst
made. as II Is concealed by the veil: but
time over The lace. ana Is after ward dfaped
10 Tall back from the top OF the crown:
a face VII Ot BRUSSELS net Is than used. black
Grape bard Is placed inside the front of all bon.
nets except those for widows. who wear the mar
row ruche or pud OF white cFlmped tarlaIan.
The long Grape veil has hem half a yard deep
III OUt emu, FedcQeS nearly TO the 1901 OF tue
weareT. has narrow hem OF the upper part,
and Is fastened on the bonnet by two long sIen-
der oroccae5 that are covered With Grape For
ight mourning bonnetS very heavily reppad
SILK. or Else uncut velvet IS used. The brim OF
iucn boDne;S II edged With black pearl or duh
Jet beads OF lHst size, either round oval or In
pear shapes Black breast feathers are some
Times put across the entire front o: silk bonnets
While others have merely one side covered by
The feathers. Widows caps for elderly
ladies bay" large crowns OF white taIl-
atan. With an inner crown OF black net.
Tie fronts are made OF two puffs of
cItmped taGiatan. Young widows wear the
Fauchon-snapcd cap without a crown and with
or without strings or taratan that lie under
neath the back hair. For very light mourning
There are tu:Hetoyer pleared collars OF white
nun. edged with wide footing, also pleated.
and worn with wide null bow tel al the
throat There are also square Deckerchiat5 of
NJ uii with deep hem that is hemSli5ched aud
with Clusters OF blocks hemStitch.,i Ia each cor
ner. CIRYat bows are OF very finely folded
white muslin or nS5e edged with footing
Large collars OF doubled white Oryandy are
made square across the back, and END In a
slight point AT the throat; some OF these have
the plea cd footing on the edge while others
have merely q hem stitched on By machine
Fichu- Of organdy and of black Brussels net
aTe shown Tor dreSSy mourning
- zgI.
Varieties OF Cats.
The varieties OF the cat are very numerous:
II Is either entirely black (black al1 white;