The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1881-04-14
Down South Befo' de Wa.
NEW ORLEANS IN 1873

|
family at the North would not employ more than
two. The cook would do nothing but cook; the
washerwoman would do nothing but wash. There
were servants to wait upon the table, and others
| to sweep, dust and make beds; and then there
| was the NANNY" and her assistant. If the mis-
tress of the house did nothing more than to that
the servants did their work properly, it is much
as could be expected Of her. Many did not do
that leaving the household affairs almost entirely
| in the hands of the servants Nearly everything
which goes on the table is bought from day to day
nquantties just sufficient for immediate use The
excessive heat and dampness of the climate, and
the ravages of the red ants make it difficult to keep
articles of food for any length of time The red ants
| tiny insects as they are-are great pests. They
will eat their way through the cork of bottle if
| it be filed with syrup and drown themselves IN
the fluid by thousands 1t is almost impossible to
! keep them out of sugar and often after stirring
your coffee in the morning it is necessary to skim
off the ants which come to the surface. The only
way to keep food from these insects is to have a
wooden safe or closet on legs which are stood in
cans filled with water or oil. The cockroaches
| scarcely less troublesome and are larger and more
numerous in New Orleans than in any other place
| have ever been. 1t is certainly more convenient
TO buy what is wanted from day to day for family
use than to keep supplies on hand to mould turn
rancid and furnish food for insects. As the pur-
chases mostly made by servants, dealers en-
courage their custom by giving what is called
"laignappe." That is, they give to the servant
making the purchase something for his or herself,
! bearing a certain relation in value to the amount
| expended If only five cents worth is bought
! The servant claims lagnappe, which in this case
would be perhaps bit of candy. OF course the
aignappe is really paid for by the master or mis-
tress and they are fortunate if they not other
wise detrauded, as they are pretty sure to be
| Washing is coufned to one day but IS car
ried on at least six days out of every during
the greater portion Of the year. A complete change
Of under and outer clothing every Gay is the rule,
| and in the hottest weather or when extra exer-
ton has been necessary, a second change will be
made Suits of clothes and sets of underclothes
are owned by the dozens and the clothing OF one
New Orleans family would nearly fit out regl-
ment White linen coats, pants and vest the
usua summer wear for gentlemen, though the vest
is often dispensed with and thus the washer
| womans post Is certainly not an easy one.
| In some establishments the servants occupy
! a separate building or buildings, but usually a
wing, one room deep, and as long as may be
qured is devoted to their use. On the ground
floor will be the kitchen wash room and store
room and the next floor the sleeping rooms,
| opening from gallery upon which door in the
main building opens. When this door Stocked the
servants are confined to their quarters; but it is
rarely locked
The first thing IN the morning cup OF coffee is
drank This is brought by servant to your bed
| side 1t is hot sweet and strong and after drinking
it you feel noincInaton to linger in bed 1t makes
| you wide awake at once. The partaking of
morning cup of coffee is universal custom in the
tropics, and is really sanitary precaution. 1t is
| a well established fact that when the stomach is
empty the system Is more liable to contract dis
ease than at other times, and the morning air II
New Orleans is regarded as particularly unhealthy
until the sun has dispersed the maarous vapors
| After coffee bath and then you are ready for
breakfast which is served at seven or light clock.
The variety of dishes at every meal in a New Or
leans household is mach greater than that gener.
ally set before a Northern family of the same
SlduulLS IlSu uOLlLul. lIltu DdudLdS, lllVN
| chicken, stewed meat ham or bacon, eggs and
| oysters, with the strongest of coffee load the
breakfast table. The bread is from the bakers,
| and usually the long French oaves. Hot bread is
rarely used The dinner hour is from four until
six Some business men dine at the former hour,
leaving their offices after the closing of the banks
at 3 r. NJ, and then return to finish their CORES
pondence and other work in the evening. Those
who dine later, conclude their business for the day
before going home to dinner. Soup is invariably
served first Then perhaps a dish Of the meat
| from which the soup was made. great variety
of dishes follow, many Of which are new and
strange to the Northerner-green peas cooked with
cream, stuffed and baked eucumbers, carrots cut
| fine and stewed in cream ducks cut up in small
pieces and sausages ditto served with rice, &c,
&c Homny always has place on the table, and
the salad bowl is not to be overlooked When
other material is not to be had potato salad,
made Of potatoes which have been boiled and
sliced is served Roast meats such as beef and
mutton are not often seen on private tables but
in their place are poultry and game. Garlic is
| much used as a seasoning. have seen piece OF
roast beef which had cloves Of garlic stuck in it
before cooking and was cooked until it was nearly
black all through. Baked fish. such the Sleeps
head and red snapper, seasoned in the same
way Gumbo is a tavorte dish and takes the
place Of soup at dinner. There are many kinds of
gumbo-crab, chicken, oyster, &c. In making
chicken gumbo the chicken is cut up and frca
seed Then water is added to the gravy, and Just
before the dish is to be served the green pods of
tl ,i-r ID T., tla
glutinous quality Beside the tureen on the table
is placed dish full OF boiled rice, and large
spoonful or two OF this IS put in a soup plate and
then the gumbo IS added This is fayorite
| supper dish also and is often served about mid
night at small parties, after returning from the
theatre opera. Fruit in season, and there is no
time of the year when some kind of fruit may not
be bad is literally used. No table is without
| wine-lf it only be the rit ot}l,oite or common
table claret, which is drank from goblets which
have been partly filled with cracked ice. A small
cup OF black coffee concludes the repast Many
families have but two regular meals. 1t is only in
Americanized or English households that tea is an
established meal. To most creoes tea itself is
garded rather a medicine than beverage. So
| far, what has been written applies merely to the
ordinary routine and table of New Orleans house
hold. To describe the dishes served at break
fast or dinner party would be small undertak
| ing. Before dinner the gentlemen would repair to
the massive sideboard for glass of sherry dashed
perhaps, with absinthe while the ladies would
swallow GQeuer glass each of annisette cordial
After the oysters, glass of white wine after
the soup glass of pale sherry; then the claret
glasses are filled, and soon the popping of cham
pagne corks is heard Maderia-more plentiful in
those days than now-and Burgundy would make
their appearance and lust before the cup of black
coffee choice brand of white wine After coffee
a Po"Scats-which means simply after coffee. 1t
is prepared in lqeuer glass. First a little
| brandy is poured in then three or four kinds of