Morning journal and courier., 1881-06-30
The Fashions for Summer.
From the New York Times l

Parisian ladies still favor the masculine
 style of dress. Jackets and habits may be
 seen in great varieties. Plain walking suits
 have invariably the ''Dorsay'' jacket. This
 garment is of either blue, brown or black
 cloth, or of English cloth in many colored
 amazone collar indispensable for wear with
 this jacket. In the cravat is a scarf pin.
 There are even made real gentlemen's cloth
 coats having only the slight changes neces-
 sary to suit the female form. The fronts
 have double rows of buttons and two gores.
 Beyond the gores is small basque fastened to the waist. This makes the garment set
 well over the hips. The back is cut exactly like gentleman's coat. In addition to this eccentric fashion are many different styles,
 most of which are in the best of taste.
 All articles of the toilet this year have a character of novelty which cannot fail to please Even in the minor details this nov make of petticoat, which may serve equally well for a skirt trimming. On the border is a flounce composed of large plaits lying against groups of three fiat plaits and trimmed with Bruges lace The body of the skirt is cut out at regular intervals, and each piece is draped to form kind of pointed scallop. The plaits between the scallops are at regular intervals and have satin ribbon bows. Colored surah petticoats have many f1ounces of lace in the same shade. Another
 novelty is matinee of broche satin in silver
 designs, or on a blue checked grounding. This opens over a s'mousseline de sole'' plait- ed chemisette, and closes only in the neck. The chemisette and garment are trimmed
 with handsome Alencon face. This is plaited
 like 8 surplice, and can be worn with any
 other suit as well as with matinee. It is
 most suitable when used with light silk or batiste toilet for seaside or country wear. Narrow rounded skirts are worn covered with To 1r,if1 fro plaitings. There is left in the back just enough place to allow for the small train of loops and short ends or for the fan shaped back. This is charming dress for figure of medium height. By making the train rather fuller and arranging 8 panier scarf over the hips, the dress is quite suitable for tall, slight forms. Even rather stout ladies may adopt this style by making other changes in the waist These small founced skirts are
 much more becoming than the plaited ones
 that have been so long in vogue.
 Dressmakers and even ladies themselves make the changes they prefer in their toi- let's. An example of this may be given in a dress worn by fashionable lady. This was of black satin, with seven narrow founces bordered with cherry color alternating with seven rows of Spanish lace. The hounces composed the front and sides of the skirt. The train was kind of Maintenon half-skirt of cherry color and black broche goods. COn1QS rom the lac0 dpfOu duu TdiSSO Ou the upper part under two tongues of the goods was a small rounded basque, forming in the back coat-tail. The front was short, and the rounded basque opened over black satin vest embroidered with jet beads. The Catalan shaped hat worn with this dress had brim turning downward covered with blonde. On the outside of the bonnet was a bunch of feathers and roses
 All the new fabrics have now been brought out. Very pretty toilets are of the new shaded and striped goods. There are so many novelties in these that 1t Is difficult to make a selection. Dressmakers have found l it quite task to make suits of these fancy | materials they have, however, succeeded admirably, and with the addition of plain goods many beautiful dresses have been | made. The following is description of one of these dresses It may be in any color ot | silk or summer woolen goods. The round l skirt has one or two founces, each about II inches deep, placed on silk skirt if possi 1 ble. This is much more comfortable wear, especially for summer, than woolen fabrics. 1 The hounces are of shaded or striped goods. 1 The unique princess waist of plain goods 1 opens on the lower part of the front, and or l the side it is raised. The trimming for this and for the sleeves is striped shaded The | draperies in the back of the skirt are of plain | goods. The suit may be thus varied the 1 hounces may be plain. A large silk Algerian scarf is tied rather low on the side and very l high in the back where it forms very large | bow with tight knot, and falls in plain ol l fringed ends. The waist may be trimmed witt | silk matching the scarf. It has large | lengthwise plaited collar, opening in the | back like fan, or ''guimpe'' down the | front, under the crossed facing of the waist | The waist trimming may also consist of z
 deep revers reaching to the shoulder. There | are very few short toilets either for street ol
 house wear which cannot be made from this
 model The material may be new or it may
 be taken from last years dress.
 Shirred gathers are much used when the
 fabrics are very fine and supple. Wher
 shirrs are well made they do not enlarge tht figure. Half the hounces are gathered iron
 the upper part, and the remainder is left tt
 hang loose, or else the plaits may be fastened l in different ways, either to form an ordinary
 plating or hollow plaits. The latter may b'
 triple or quadruple, forming tiny fan
 shaped trimming. The upper part of tht | skirt is shirred from about Il to 13 inche down, thus making it very tight fitting. Tht
 lower part of the waist and above the shoul The sleeves may be shirred from the shoul
 der to the elbow. Beautiful toilets are mad
 after these designs of plain surah "yolle d | nome" and woolen 'smousseline de PInde,
 with trimmings to match. These may als
 be trimmed with cream colored lace. Stripe'
 grenadine dresses have plaited hounces, witt
 lace intermixed, and trimmings of light silve
 passementerie, and dropping ornament
 placed on the ends of narrow moire antiqu } | ribbon These ornaments fall over tn l apron, and are then taken around the scarf and over the fronts of the waists. When is necessary to have the toilets very elegan
 light silver lace is intermixed with the trim ming and a small bunch of flowers is placed o
 the waist to take of the effect of the mourn