The Portland daily press., 1881-06-11
[Shoe and Leather Reporter
Theatrical Shoes.

very extensive industry, but it brings into
play all the skill and handicraft of the work
man in manner which ordinary shoe manu-
featuring does not call for. A skilled workman
must be familiar with the costumes of many of
the principal characters in tragedy and comedy
and must, in all cases, make his work conform
with the surroundings. OF course the attain
ment of such skill is a matter of time and
study and those who are competent are we'll
remunerated.
In New York there are two manufacturers
who make theatrical work speciality The
Oldest house in tho trade is that OF Herman
Nestroek, who has been engaged in the busi-
ness for the past eighteen years New York
may be regarded as the center of the trade,
and orders are sent there from all parts Of the
country. The annual trade in that city Is
fully equal to 100000. The busy season lasts
from about August Is to May 10. During that
time there is constant stream of orders COM
ing in, but in the Summer months there is
scarcely any business done.
One of the peculiar features of this branch
Of trade is, that all the goods have to be made
to order. It would scarcely be possible to car
ry a ready-made stock that would meet all tho
requirements of the buyer. Most actors and
actresses are extremely fnieal in regard to
their foot wear. If they have small, shapely
feet they like to show them to the best advan-
tage. If, on the contrary. their pedal extrem-
tiles are of unusual dimensions or ill-shaped,
they want the shoemaker to exercise his ut
most skill in concealing their imperfections.
AS general rule members of the profess
sion are willing to pay well for goods that
meet their fancies, and it is an indisputable
fact that the manufacturers put heavy figure
on their shoes.
There is always some new idea cropping up
in regard to stage shoes, and no matter how
triding or insignificant it may appear to the Or
dinary observer, actors insist upon its being
carried out with scrupulous fidelity
Manufacturers regard Shakesperean plays as
the best adapted to display their skill and at
the same time fill their pockets Most of the
foot gear in such plays as Julius Caesar, Othel-
10, Anthony and Cleopatra, ETC., has to be
made in conformity with the styles of those
days as represented in old prints, or in some
cases designs have been taken from tombs,
coins, and monuments coeval with the periods
represented. This naturally calls for
the exercise of the utmost skill ON the part of
| the workman, and his remuneration is, of
course, higher than on ordinary work. Next
to tragedy come opera bouffe and variety,
where costume is an all-important factor.
Formerly these shoes were imported from
France to a large extent, but as it was found
difficult to obtain correct fit without being
acaully measured for the goods, and inasmuch
as the import duties were almost equal to the
original cost, the trade gradually fell away un-
| til now it can scarcely be said to exist
Nothing but the very best class of stock is
used in shoes for stage wear; for masquerades
and amateur performances, however, a more
inferior grade of goods is generally worn.
Some idea of the prices and classes of goods
which are most frequently in demand may be
| gained from the following: An ordinary jig
shoe. has thin sole, of Hoyt's best white oak
leather, and French or Curacao kid upper.
The heels are high, with steel tap, into the
center of which is inserted spool shaped
piece of the same metal, broad at each end and
narrow in the middle, which slides into a
groove followed out of the heel and when the
foot isNbrought down it makes that peculiar
tapping jingling noise which charms the ears
of va1iety show habitues. There is a constant
demand for these goods at from $4
to 50 per pair for plain and SIS
to 81 for fancy styles. Shoes for ballet dane
erS are made with flesh colored satin tops to
match the tights, thin oak soles and strong
leather boxes to allow the wearer to stand on
her toes with ease. The tops are cut very low,
just covering the first phalanx or joint of the
great toe. If cut too high or too low, they in
terfere with the free motion of the foot.
Prices for these run from S2.50to $3, and
pair or9inari y lasts only week. :
OF late there have been quite number of
imitators of the East Indian Nautch girls, and
they require a peculiarly shaped shoe. with
high heels and an extremely pointed Chinese
toe. The uppers are made in one piece, of
gilt or silvered morocco, manufactured by
K. A. Smith & Bros, Philadelphia, with a
seam down the front. They are worth $6 per
| pair, and met with ready demand during the
last Winter.
Among the most common articles of foot
wear for Shakesperean plays is what is called
| the Hamlet shoe. 1t has black velvet upper
cut rather low in front, with single strap and
silver buckle. The heels are rather high and
broad, and are also covered with black velvet,
which gives the whole shoe an extremely SON.
Der appearance, in strict consonance with the
mournful aspect which the Prince of Denmark
| is commonly supposed to have worn. There
is but little room for alteration in the style of
| this shoe, and it is usually kept in stock and
| brings IS per pair. Another, which is in con-
| slant demand, is a court shoe, made with o
| black morocco or patent leather top broad
strap piece with large buckles, and very high
| heels. They sell for from Sc to 81 per pair.
An ordinary Roman sandal is also in fire.
quent request. 1t is usually made to como
| high up on the leg and is either laced or but
| toned. 1t is slashed all the way up to the top
| from the strap piece almost to the back strap,
| and is open in front nearly down to the first
| joint of the toe Russet and red morocco is
| generally used on these goods and they vary
| in price from 81 to 50 per pair.
| High boots, such as those worn by Falstaff
| in King Henry w., are mostly made of CUR
! colored morocco, coming far up on the leg,
| with pocket top, lined with the same material
| of red color. They vary in price from $40 to
| SIS per pair, and there is q fair call for them
| all the time. The uppers of such goods as
| these are all sewn on the Wheeler & Wilson
| machine, but the rest of the work is done by
hand.
| In 1871, when Booth inaugurated his series
| Of CbaL alci in, No
| goods that had never heretofore been made in
] this country were required, and most of them
| were made from designs drawn especially for
| the purpose. Among the most striking was a
| Roman sandal OF the time of Julius Caesar, to
| be worn in the representation of the play of
that name. 1t was simply piece of sole leath-
| er, cut in conformity with the shape of the
| foot, and fastened by means of straps, enc
| passing up between the great and second toes,
and the other just back Of the joint of the lit
tie toe. These straps were affixed to leather
frame above the ankle, having eyelet holes in
it for lacing purposes, and thin straps passing
from it around the back of the leg They came
up to the knee, and were there crowned with a
| band OF fur-tipped leather.
In what are called society dramas, such as
"Pique," "Mss Multon,'' etc, the furniture
and costumes appear to be regarded as of al
| most equal Importance with the actors or their
acting. Ii an actress has dress of blue silk
| for instance, she must have ssatin tops of the
| same Color, ana even the high Louis AV. heels
which are used on these goods, must be COW
cred with the same material. Sometimes the
shoes are made with gold or silver morocco
tops. They are generally laced, as the foot
has then greater pliability than if button shoes
were worn. The usual price for such goods as
these is from $S to S12 pair
There are numerous other styles which
might be mentioned, but we have confined
ourselves to the most important, and some
idea of the nature and scope of the business
may be obtained therefrom.
An idea of the extravaganza 81 some actor.
and actresses in regard to their costumes MAY
be gained from the fact that Edwin Booths
shoes for stage wear cost him nearly $1,000
year Mary Anderson comes next with abou
$500. John Mccullough is put down at al
most $780, and several other leading members
of the profession each spend some $500 yearl,
| for hair ctara