The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1881-06-15
Tho CITY of TuniS.

An italian proverb says, "Sec Naples
and then die" and there is also all
Arabian saying to the same effect as
regards Tunis; but to the European
traveller the Mohammedan city, with its
mosques, it's minarets, it's huge palms
and fig trees and, above all, the great
fortress that dominates its site, will
always be preferred. Unfortunately,
on landing the pleasing illusion is
speedily lost, and that which appeared
from afar as a succession of fine streets
and princely residences is found to be a
labyrinth OF small lanes, the buildings
generally in a wretched state of dilapi-
dation and the narrow roadways flthy.in
the extreme. Evidently there has never
been any recognized plan in its construc-
ton, but Of late years, especially since
the occupation of Algeria by the French,
the influence of European residents has
resulted in ameliorating and identifying
some of the open sites with which the
city is studied, but which are mostly
dedicated to cemeteries and to the ruins
of palaces and strongholds that mark
the salient history of Tunis since its
foundation in the birth of our civiliza-
ton. The city may be divided into
three parts, respectively devoted to the
Europeans, the Arabs and the Jews.
The square in which is situated the Elk
change presents a fine appearance, be-
ing. built with some semblance of regu-
larity, and containing the abodes OF
the consuls aud rich foreign residents.
This quarter assumes the liveliest and
most picturesque appearance during the
busy hours of the day, when Arab,
Moor, Turk, Frank and Jew meet in
this, the principal mart of the northern
coast of Africa, where are to be found
all the products of this magnificent but
as yet poorly explored continent.
The upper part of the city, forming
O species Of amphitheater, is inhabited
by the Mussulmans, and or the sum
NIT is the Kaslal or citadel, which is
Justly celebrated for its Oriental mag
nifcence, the approaches being embel-
lished with massive Roman and Sara
comic ruins, with fountains shaded by
marble porticos wrought with the most
intricate and elaborate devices, with
the upper spaces studded with palm
and other tropical trees. Tho citadel
itself must have formed g. redoubtable
stronghold during the middle ages, but
with modern artillery it's heavy embat-
Elements could be preached in q few
hours. It contains many monuments
dedicated to the kings of Tunis, some
huge towers on which are cut various
texts from the koran, and an armory
dating from the time of Charles
", of Spain, containing a most
valuable collection of military tro-
plies. There is also an arsenal,
u powder mandatory, and depots for
provisions and supplies; indeed, the
citadel is almost q complete city of
itself, with it's arcades, it's galleries, its
vaults and subterrancan passages, in
which, without q guide, it would be as
easy to lose ones way as in the cata-
combs of Rome. From the ramparts
is q most magnificent view, but the chief
attraction to the eye is the bey's palace,
the Darel-bey, which is justly con.
sidered as the finest type yet extant OF
the Moresque style of architecture, and
superior even to the Alhambra in the
beauty of it's lace-like ornamentation
and the brilliancy of the colored marble
with which it is chiefly adorned. This
superb building shows in all its purlieus
that strange mingling Of misery and
magnifcence that since the days Of
"Haroun-Al-Raschid" and the "Thou-
sand and One Nights" appears to be
inevitable in all oriental palaces not sub
ject to European rule.-.Sam Francisco
TL-oojre