The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-09-01
TUE PRESS.
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
pemi-season Toilettes.

Dark costumes that may be worn with or
without wraps are demanded by the uncertain
weather of the demi-season. For this purpose
the earliest importation consists of satin Surah
dresses with brocaded dounces, plain satin
merveilleux dresses combined with MORE,
Cheviot suits, and vol dresses with or without
another material. The brocaded Surah dres-
ses are of exceptional elegance. The short
round skirts have three deep flounces OF the
fabric, each flounce being heavily brocaded on
the edge as a border. The short yet full upper
drapery is also brocaded, and the border Is re-
peated on the basque, which is very short IN
front and on the hips, in the style formerly
known as the polka basque. These dresses
are shown in old silver-the new dark gray
in myrtle green, condor brown, and brick red.
A three-cornered fichu of silk muslin, edged
with very full rows of Aurillac lace, is at
tached permanently to the neck OF some OF
these dresses, while others have the new shirred
Mother Hubbard cape of white null and Tunis
lace covering the shoulders; the sleeves have
soft crushed puffs of null and full frills OF
lace also. Dresses of plain satin mervellieux,
either black or dark colored have the new
polka basque made surplice front by tapping
over from right to left, but tapping SO slightly
that only one great button is required to fast
en- it at the waist line. The low pointed throat
is then trimmed with sort of shawl shaped
collar of MORE or else of one of the new striped
fabrics that show lines of plush of bright color,
and of metaI-either gilt or silver. Some
times instead of button strap like belt is
used, and fastened by ornamental clasps or
buckles. The front and side breadths OF the
skirt have the foundation covered by two tab
liers or smooth valances of the MORE shaped
around the figure closely, with scarf like
drapery at the top that falls also behind with
bouffant loops and ends. To fill in the open
neck of the surplice basque there are kerchiefs
of various fabrics such as black beaded net,
black silk net, black muslin, and the various
white tulle, NULL and lace kerchiefs that were
worn during the summer. Pretty little Shoul-
der capes are made Of the dress material to be
worn in the street. These are not new IN
shape, as they are gathered about the neck IN
Mother Hubbard style, or else the fullness IS
laid in pleats from the neck down; they are
cut off short and square behind, have high
collar or ruff, and long slender tabs in front
The Cheviot costumes are either PLAIN,
striped, or checked, and show great deal OF
copper red, mustard, and bronze shad1ngs.
They are made similarly to the simple suits Or
dered in the spring for travelling dresses, and
the only trimmings are frogs and braids of the
same color; indeed, these trimmings are con-
fined to CheviotS of solid color, While ma
chine stitching or binding of braid IS sutflelent
for the striped or barred Cheviots. Metal but
tons of rich designs are offered for these dresses
but many modists still use the plain smoked
pearl buttons with eyes in the centre.
Some stylish wool dresses of cashmere and
the rougher-surfaeed camels-hair have been
made In the ctdudron or copper shades in
pheasant brown, dark green and porcelain
blue, cowbined with satin Surah OF the same
shade or else with watered silk for trimming.
One of the prettiest combination dresses for
young lady has the full skirt back arranged in
three large box pleats of the cashmere separ-
ated BY clusters of side pleats of satin Surah of
the same shade; these pleats take up the entire
fullness Of the skirt, extend from the belt to
the foot and are without founces. The front
and side cores have two very deep pleated
aounces of the wool goods, and short, full
apron draped in set curved pleats that disap-
pear in the side seams of the back. The basque
is very short on the front and on the Sides and
has a wide belt confined to the front and fas-
tened by colored pearl buckle. The
back of the basque is longer and square and
repeats in miniature the box-pleating OF the
skirt with side pleats of Surah between. This
costume is shown in dark blue and in coffee
red cashmeres, and will also be made up in
black satin Surah with the inner side pleatlugs
of black naoire or any of the new striped and
block patterns that combine satin and gros
grain, or else satin and MORE. To wear with
the red and blue suits just described, rough
straw bonnets of dark blue or red are imported
trimmed with very wide striped blue and red
ribbon, and three curled tips OF mixed red and
blue ostrich feathers. Correspondents who
have asked for early hints of fall styles for
travelling and walking dresses will do well to
copy these models. The new Cheviots are al
ready displayed on the counters of retail
stores and are sold in double widths at VI 20
yard. Cashmeres in the new artistic shades
cost from 81 to $3.50 while the satin finished
Surahs are from S1.50 So yard. Flannel
finished cloths of medicm weight, suitable Tor
the present season, are 81 yard.
Plush eScalier, or staircase plush, is novelty
for trimming dresses. 1t is made OF plush
with the pile cut in different lengths to form
cross stripes from an inch to two inches wide.
This is especially handsome in black plush for
collars and cuffs of cloaks and dresses, but IS
also found in colors. Brocaded plush is still
plush figures of long pile. This combination
of velvet and plush in one fabric is perhaps the
most elegant feature of the new goods.
New designs of brocaded velvets show great
balls and moons with three-inch disks Oh the
heavy moleskin velvet. Plain velvets are
shown of the purest silk at prices not found
hitherto; and in selecting these it is best to get
the very thick short pile, because 1t is less
easily defaced merchants call it uncrushable,
and sell it in the new acajou, bronze and anne
thys shades for Sc to $40 yard.
For pretty petticoats and dress trimmings
for young ladies are velvets and pushes with
gay stripes of contrasting colors, such as green
with red and lines of old gold. Roman stripes
of twilled satin in gay yet delicate colors are
alternsted with plush stripes for youthful
looking dresses. Pekin velvets show satin
stripes Of different widths of the color OF the
velvet, and there are also many polka-dotted
velvets and pushes for trimmings and for
skirts. The chameleon pushes are new shown
shades of one color, or of yellow to red, ecru to
brown, pale green to dark myrtle, etc. These
are for trimming cloth and camel's-hair
dresses. There are also block patterns in ON
bre plush, and the different markings of
leopard and tiger skins are shown in sgray.and
tan-colored plushes.
The fashionable choice for black dresses will
be the Rhadames silk, or else satin merveil-
leux with damask fiounces. Rhadames is
new twilled silk, twilled on both sides, but
differently twilled, showing the lustrous twill
of satin on the right side, but merely that OF
pure silk on the wrong side. This fabric with
brocaded fiouuces, has q stately look that
makes it fit for dowager, yet it is soft and as
pliable as the satin merveilleux which it rivals
A novelty this year is black satin merveilleux
chine flowers showing tulips aud bouquets OF