Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1881-01-28
TAILOR-MADE MEN.
How Natures Crooked Ways ar"
Sometimes Made straight by Sar.
tOrinI Art
New York Sun

who are formed regularly, Nhat y
professional cutter would call n 'regu'
lar proportion is measurement oi
thirty-six inches TO the breast and thlr-
ty-three inches to the waist, But those
measurements are seldom met with. y
This was said to II San reporter in re-
ply TO inquiries rs to the shapes that
are encountered by tailors who make
custom clothing. Experienced cutters
say that they are obliged TO make al
lowance for peculiar forms in almost
every case. Many men have one
shoulder higher than the other. This
is particularly the case with those who
do much writing, The right arm is
kept continually on the desk, while the
left arm is rested and lowered. Nat
urally, in such cases, II mans right
shoulder is raised and his left shoulder
depressed To remedy this slight de-
formity, the expert cutter must resort
to padding.
"Talk about padding" said M old
cutter, "the men are really padded
as much rs the women. Put your
hand on the shoulder Of the first man
you meet; you will find probably that
instead of bony shoulder blade, you
will feel soft cushion. Watch the
men walking on Broadway. You will
notice that many of them swing their
arms under caves Of padding. Look at
the padding in the breasts Of coats and
vests A tailor finds man 'cavGd in,
and has to build him out. That is the
reason 20 many high vests are worn.
A low vest would eXpose the flat, pinch
ed chest"
GLOW about the legs p
"1'he cutter who cannot conceal the
impcrfections Of mans legs is unwor-
thy of his profession. If II man is
bandy-lcgged, the cutter will make him
wide and roomy pantaloons, IN which
his crooked limbs may wander without
detection Ifho is short-lcgged the cut
ter will ht him snugly, 80 that his
neither extremitos shall not offend the
eye. Ifhc is long-legged, the cutter
adds little to the length Of his body,
and brings him apparently into pro-
portion. II il II very common occur
renee for mans right leg to be II lit
tie longer than the other. Very often
u mans occupation gives him u stoop-
ing position, so that he seems almost
humpbackcd. The expert cutter ut
tends to MI these poculinritics, and sees
to it that they nrc NJ far ns possible
concealed"
ado you think that men are M par
ticulnr about their dress M women"
"Whcn they care Mt MI they are
moro fastidious. The trouble with men
is that they do not always know what
they want. Women are more npt TO
know exactly whit they want because
they make study Of dress. They
think of il from childhood. They sec
they like and say, make it
like that. They know how goods will
look when made up. But many men
are unrcnsonably fastidious. One
thinks he has II full breast When you
measure him he pulls and swells out
to undue proportions When the cont
il finished md he tries il on he says il
don't liz, when the raal trouble il that
ho doesn't swell himself ont ~ ho did
when he WINS measured. If u man il
punctlious about n very noat close tit
the chances are TINT he will complain
that his clothes are too tight when he
tries thom ON. Then the man who
says he wants them easy and is not
particular about the iit, is to be feared
When he gets his clothes his wife or his
sisters or his fellow bonrdcrs scrutnizo
his garments and send him hack 10 the
unfortunate tailor,
"Do you find TINT men are much in
nucnccd by their wives M to the cut
and material of their clothcs?'
"Iniluenccd2 Why, sir, il amounts
to slavery in many eases. have had
men make me contract To please their
wives in the cut of n coat. They come
here filled with Instructions. They
have orders for the style of cloth, the
style Of cut tho style Of buttons, the
lining, trimmings, and price. When |
cut cont for u married man know
that, in most cases, have got to please
the wife Frequently n man goes
away perfectly satisfied with garment
and comes back the next day running
over with complaints, Then know
who has been criticsing the work.
Sometimes, when know there Is moth
ing wrong, put tho garment away ina
closet, never touch IL ana when sent
il bnck in frw days il is pronounced
very much better and MI right.
Tho military tailors are the greatest
adopts in building up unpromising
forms to become models of soldicrly
appearance They will take lean,
scrawny, consumptivc clerk and turn
him out in uniform that makes him
quito formidable rs well rs u prcpos-
sossing person With skillful nppro-
priation Of haircloth, hngging, and bat
ting, thoy manageto manufacture well
rounded forms III almost every case.
As for the theatrical tnilors, their work
il often n marvel of art. Actors with
natural gracefuness of form have
sometimes served MS walking advertise.
mcnts of fashionable tailorS. Actors
whose line of characters requires many
changes of fashionable dress are fire.
qucntly asked to Introduce some new
style.
"What does il cost 70 dress man III
the height OF fashion, wns asked Of "
Fiith-avenuo tailor.
about 500 n year, was the reply.
But il n man indulge III $500 fur coats
and variety of fine silk necktics and
an assortment of fancy pantaloons his
Ill l.. a. IL. -