Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1881-10-28
FROM BOSTON,.

an cDlQeInlC OF Dluhns IIOm uNhu " ibOtt
women are to be enveloped in it. Aud wont
they be comfortable 7-such warm, soft, pro-
tectng material as it is. don't wonder it is
so popular, for certainly nothing could be
loveler than il is in all its variations of style
and color. 1t seems as though the ingenuity
of the manufacturers must have been taxed TO
the utmost in order to produce such exquisite
results. Not only is there the familiar mate
rial that we have always known under the
name of plush. There is the mole.skin, which
has short, soft pile, like velvet, and which
is one of the richest variations, especially
suitable for millinery. Then there is the ON
bre or shaded plush, the striped material al
ternately of plush and satin, and a plush in
which the pile graduates in length from the
mole-skin to a long, fringe-lke pile. 1t is
perhaps unnecessary to say that this last is
exclusively for hounces to dresses and for
trimmings. There is gorgeousness, luxu-
rance about the fashions of this season that
is almost oriental. The tendency has been in
this direction for several seasons, increasing
from year to year until now we have come al
most literally to cloth Of gold and silver, and
our girls look like gay tropical birds in their
new adornments. Nor is the plumage want
ing, on the bright-hued human birds of pas
sage. Scarcely member of the feathered
family but has contributed to the personal
adornment of our girls. Even the barn-door
fowls add their mite, and have seen whole
turban hats made of Guinea fowls feathers
The peacock, the grebe, the heron, the par
rot, the sea gull, the duck, the gold and silver
pheasants, doves, humming-birds, and the
beautiful tropical impian, set of the quaint
plush bonnets, or make jaunty turbans, which,
set atop pretty girls fluffy hair, are wonder
fully coquettish and becoming. I've always
had a tremendous fancy for these feather
hats, which have been for some time an Eng
lish fashion, but which have not been taken
up by American milliners until this season,
when, you must know, society is English If
it is anything. Among the ultra-fashionable
people, London styles are the most approved,
and this is why the feather hats are so popu
lar, as they are by no means of French ORR
gin, but are much affected by Englishwomen.
They are by no means an inexpensive luxury,
and their price keeps pace with their pretti-
ness. The plainest black one costs ten dol
lars, and they go from that to thirty, which
is the price of one made entirely of impian
feathers. The average price, however, is
about eighteen dollars, and for this you can
get very handsome one of golden pheasant,
peacock or grebe. Some of the most beauti-
full ones that have been imported were shown
last week at the millinery opening of Henry
NJ. Burr Il Co., at 400 Washington street, and
side by side with these we're some made at the
house, which were equally beautiful You
know my propensity to wave the American
flag whenever occasion offers? Well, found
my opportunity at this opening, where, out
of over two hundred pattern hats that were
exhibited-no two of which were alike, by the
way-not one was imported, but all of them
were made in the workrooms Of the establish
ment, under the direction of an American
milliner. The result was most satisfying to
national pride. was very much amused by
French lady who was present at the opening
with friend Looking about her as she en-
tered the exhibition rooms, she said, with an
air of satisfaction: "Ah. this is Paris. go
to many places, and they say to me, This
bonnet comes from Virot, and this from Le-
chevalier, and this from Martinez : and
look at them, and tell that they never saw
France. But here-ah! 1 know the French
bonnet, and it is here. People were kind,
and did not undeceive her, and she went away
serene in her belief that she had in America
found the bonnet of France-speaking after
the manner Of Ollendorf. All! but they were
lovely, and, as heard one enthusiastic ad
mirer remark, ''quite reconciled one to exis-
u 7 IL
any other, a small, close bonnet of brown leaf
plush, with a bunch of the richest velvet flow
ers and foliage in the same rich, soft color.
Il was 80 quiet and ladylike, and 1 think its
very contrast 10 the brilliant bonnets with
which ii was surrounded was what made me
like it 80 much. There was, for an evening
hat for young lady, a white plush in the
French poke shape, which was made so pop
ular by Mademoiselle Bernhard last winter.
1t had a small, rather high crown, and brim
wide and haring in front but narrow and sharp
ly upturned in the back 1t was covered with
an embroidery of tiny pearl beads, and trim
med with two long, thick, curling ostrich
plumes, falling on each side and held in place
by butterflies made of impian feathers. In
side the uplfted brim, three of these butter
flies were irregularly placed, looking as though
they had accidentally alighted there. saw
Madame Anna Granger Dow there, trying on
a large, picturesque, olive plush hat, trimmed
with feathers shading from olive to pale sui
phur. 1t was handsome and becoming enough
to touch even the aesthetic soul of Lady Jane.
l always think it is a hopeless task to make
any one see bonnet by description, but
must hazard it once more, trusting that may
be able to give you some idea of Mother
Hubbard bonnet in silver-grey plush, 1t had
on one side a large fiat bow Of shaded grey
satin ribbon, deepening at one edge into black.
This bow was held in place by a large cres-
oent-shaped cut steel ornament. On the 9TH
er side was grey ostrich plume, placed quite
low and falling over the edge of the brim.
The ties were of ribbon like that the bow was
made from, and there was no trimming inside
the iaring brim. You see by the bonnets
that have mentioned that large and small
shapes alike are used. One is Just as fash
ionable as the other, and which it shall be
must depend upon the person who wears it.
Fashion is allowing much more individuality
in dress than ever before, and as consequence
people look better dressed, and all the women
one sees are not turned out exactly after the
same model. As for millinery, it may be sum-
med up briefly in this manner: "Plush, jet,
beads and feathers" That seems to compre-
bend all the features. Feathers have super
seeded flowers, there is an immense quantity
of jet used, beads of all kinds play promi-
nent part in trimming, and, as told you in
the beginning, plush is epidemic. Even the
children wear plush bonnets, and the misses
felt hats have plush brims-and these, by the
way, trimmed with large bows and long, curl
ing feathers are as picturesque as you please.
So much for the bonnet of the day. Let us
do il honor. SALIm JOY WHITE