Juniata sentinel and Republican. [volume] (Mifflintown, Juniata County, Pa.) 1873-1955, 1881-01-26
Babel at the Dinner Table.

The Russian and the Swede begin, as /
well known, with the .'zakouska" o.
''smorgOst, generally served in an ante
room, and composed of all kinds of appe.
tizing snacks. Raw herring, caviare
smoked salmon, anchovies, oysters, anC
many similar dishes belong to the ga
kouska," and cheese is tasted then instead
Of after dinner. A glass Of vodka or spirits
OF some kind, or more frequently two Oh
three, accompany this ceremony, ito open
the appetite" Excuses are never wanting
for repeating the dose. some cannot wals
upon one leg" says the Swede. ''The
Trinity is sacred" says the Russian for
his third glass, and Every room has four
corners" for his fourth. Probably the
origin of the ''zakouska" may be found in
the fact that hungry guests, ARRIVING some
little time before the dinner hour, would
be offered snack in the meanwhile and
glass of vodka after their journey in the
cold. Where things are done ON a large
scale, the ''zakouska" reaches colossal pro-
portions. | have seen as many as thirty
seven plates On the table. Both Russians
ana Swedes attack the board with voracious
energy. The Swedish word ''smorgost' l
believe to be derived from ''smor og ostn
(butter and cheese. The same custom
obtains In France in a modified form in the
shape of hOrs d9uUres-generally rad
ishes, butter, sardines, etc., but without
the glass OF brandy, which is replaced in
England by sherry and bitters The
French custom of eating melon after the
soup is, / believe, derived from Spain.
Then as 10 the order of serving the courses.
Every country has some different arrange
ment, and there is no universal rule for
any particular Wand or beverage to make
its appearance at any special stage of the
repast. The French and ourselves eat
macaroni as a third course. The Italians,
to whom the dish belongs, treat 1t as soup,
calling 1t and its kindred condiments ''dry
soups"
Now supposing We give dinner to for
elgners OF different nationality, and wish
10 suit each one as TO the order OF the cour-
ses, according 10 the custom of his coun-
try; either many dishes must appear twice
al different times during the meal, or we
shall be quite al loss when to serve them
The northerns commence with brandy ald
cheese, while we take cheese before desert,
and brandy after dinner with the coffee.
The Italian considers macaroni as a soup,
the SpanIard and the Frenchmen eat melon
before the fish. and, lastly, the to me out
rageous fashion of taking an ice In the mid
die of dinner has been introduced, under
the plea of reviving appetite.
Another branch of the subject presents
equal difficulties. When shall salt OF sugar
be used When shall fruit or jellies accom-
pany the meat With what things is mus
tard TO be eateni The Germans serve
stewed fruit with many meat dishes. We
take curIant jelly with mutton, hare and
venison, and apple sauce with goose and
pork. The Italians put grated cheese into
almost every kind OF soup or stew; they
never eat mustard with macaroni. Some
take pepper with melons, others sugar.
Some make fish into soup, others make
into pies. Where shall We
choose