The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1881-03-05
How Partisan Women Dress.

Beginning with the chaussure for the house
there are gray silk stockings embroidered with
tiny flowers or leaves, and downy slippers of
silk, wadded and quilted. For reception toilets
at home and abroad, sky blue, salmon, or vert
d'eau Open-wOrk silk stockings are worn with
shoes of black satin, or of a color to match the
dress. with high heels, and bars or bows trimmed
with jewels. For going out in the morning, on
foot or in Il carriage, red stockings, or of the color
of the dress, such as seal brown, plum, green, &c;
very high boots, buttOned in front or on the side,
or even on both sides, of dressed kid almost as
fine as that used for gloves.
For the underwear, a little short petticoat,
drawers, and waist Of sky-blue or pale pink
flannel, trimmed with coarse white guipure, and
sometimes embroidered with white silk then a
a longer %petticoat of black satin lined with bright
cOlored plush and for dinner and evening dress
es a white muslin petticOat, with pleated hounces
edged with lace forming q baayeuse. This white
petticoat is Joined to the dress, in order to sup
port it evenly throughout, and keep the train
properly spread out. For this purpose it is basted
to the belt of the skirt, while The Ggunced part IS
made separate. and is but,Oned on, SO as to be
- 'e7i aite.cr than the resi- of the --.,.c0at-
l"- .-s dress -vu5 nov snail I undertake -
dee % me shapes. the sil5s. and itag rim3ing.
..ySs es OF sac Cay2 As well attempt T.
number -hc sands Of the seashor-. The dress sor
morning stree. wear is Away Of wool, whateYe,
may 1e the condition OF tie wearer, AMI always
VI d d COlOE II lulC TOT VISITS DdlU alter
4 O'Clock the color is lightened a little, and the
trimmings depart somewhat from the simplicity
which good taste enloins on them for morning
dress. When the four o'clock visits-that is,
those made after + o'clock-take place among
elegant women keeping their own carriages ,many
articles of excessive luxury are allowed which
would be in the worst possible taste if they were
made on foot or in a public vehicle. A lady in
her own carriage does not cease to be at home
even on going out, and for this reason may wear
with IMMUNITY brocade pelisses embroidered with
gold, if such is her pleasure.
The so-called fancy jewelry occupies an i'm
pOrtant place in the dress of the day, being worn
on slippers, in c~ravats, on bonnet strings and on
bOnnets on the wrists, the neck, and the waist.
At this moment animals are greatly in vogue
animals of all kinds, even the most ungraceful
and repulsive. They are suspended as charms
from chatelaines, watch chains, bracelets, and
necklaces, and are mounted as pins and brooches,
and are much in fashion Just now as pendants to
flagree silver necklaces worn over high-necked
dresses.
Tabliers, otherwise called tie fronts OF dresses.
threaten to- become as sumptuOus as those of the
court of Louis XIV. They are made of velvet,
painted by hand, like fans, with sheafs Of flowers.
garden bouquets, Vatican scenes, landscapes.
&c; all this for the front of dresses. Others,
moreover, are embroidered all over with gold.
both plain and frosted, and with embroidery
representing not only flowers and trees, but also
personages. With these skirts with ornamented
tabliers are worn waists entirely open over a
p~lastron to match, which is laced half way up
with gold and silver cord.
There are also many embrOideries worked with
colOred beads-gOld, silver, copper and steel-on
bands of tulle which are used for ball dresses.
C~orsage p~lastrons and skirt fronts are worked in
the same manner. Gold lace of all width is used
more than ever, as we'll on tulle as on silk dresses.
Another new g%arniture is collar, cuffs, and poek-
et-haps Of cuir-coIored leather, ornamented with
gold, silk, or chenille embroidery.