The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1881-04-21
Renturps of New Drpsaps.

The shirred waists that were intro
duced year ago, are generally adopted
for new dresses made of any of the soft
fabrics that shirr we'll, such as surah,
fine woods, foulsard and soft muslins
This shirring is not now confined to
clusters at the neck and waist line, but
covers the entire shoulders in parallel
rows Stimulating n round yoke. 1t is
also conspicuous in the full sleeves
called generally bishops sleeves. In
some of these it appears in several
rows around the armholes, the elbows,
and again at the wrists; in others, the
gathering at the elbows is omitted, so
that soft puff is formed; while other
sleeves are shirred all over-those for
short arms in lengthwise rows, and in
horizontal rows for long arms. Shirring
is also seen on standing collars, and on
the wide round Stuart collar. The
shirred scarf for trimming the front Of
the corsage remains popular, and is
now much broader than it has been
WON, and is longer than the basque
both ends falling below the basque, and
being finished with fringe. This scarf
| is now shirred in clusters, with the space
between folded in plaits five clusters of
| shirringare used; the middle clusteris in
the back Of the neck, two clusters are Just
below the throat III front, and two more
are at the waist line. There are various
ways of shirring dress skirts, the simplest
of which is to shirr the entire lower
skirt in rows around the figure. Another
dressy front of skirts has two shirred
| scarfs, each six or eight inches wide
when completed, put straight down the
front from belt to toe, while in the space
between may be four lengthWise knife.
plated frills, two on each side turned
to the middle; or else there are five
| long looped bows of surah, doubled mar
rowly, and finished with tassels placed
on the flat open space. Another new
! feature is the use of two soft bias putfS
around the lower skirt instead Of plait-
ings Sometimes these are very narrow,
and they are always made to lap deeply.
| This is very effective in striped goods,
as in black grenadines, and is much
used on plain sewing-silk grenadines or
on brocaded stuffs. Other skirts have
wider puffs, that may be either bias or
straight when made of plain goods, such
as the surah or nuns yelling; and
these extend up to the knees,
where the top is concealed under
the upper drapeIy. Some dresses
have series of narrow tapping bias
puffs up the middle of the front breadth,
where Tapped knife-plaitings were form
erly placed, while others have similar
puffs up the left side, where they are
disclosed by the overskirt being caught
up very high on that side. There are
] aluo ,Nnlnnoicac oh h.
son advances, and these are very full on
the hips, in exact contradiction to the
long close basques that fit like Jerseys.
Sometimes this fullness is merely
extended around from the front in the
usual panier fashion, but in many cases
the fullness is added in deep shirriug
Just below the waist line, and the part
below is turned back in revers. The
skirts CT dresses worn with polonaises
arc quite as elaborately trimmed as
those with basques. Sometimes the
whole front and side breadths are
shirTed, and three or four gathered
ruffles of Egyptian brocade, or blocks,
or else of bayadere stripes are placed
across the breadth to break up the mon-
otony of the shirring. The shirred
squares are set ON at the neck, OF else
inserted like plastrons. The new bows
for dress garniture have as many as ten
or twelve long loops that are really
loops NOT fatty pressed and also
some ends notched or forked all this
is held by one small strap at the top or
in the middle. Satin ribbon two inches
wide is used for such bows, and often
two contrasting colors Of ribbon are
! employed. the lighter being placed in