Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1881-09-01

with belted and pulled sleeves Here it is con-
ventionai. With basque. Killed front. and draped
back. There are three killings In front headed
| with Madeira embroidery and this Is used also
! as a trimming for the basque and to form cuffs
Indoor gowns are short ard cut sacaue-
| shaped. reaching to the feet. but hardly touch
ing the ground. They have a collar. which is
trimmed with pleated ruttie. edged with lace
| and this extends down the front and sometimes
round the bottom. They are made In pink and
blue. and red ground prints. in very small pat
terms. i'm pongee silk. i'm foulard and in shades
| of silk surah. which is delightful summer wear.
The ont door additions To costumes are pre-
clsely the same as with us-smal. silk and satin
| NANTES, shirred. and lace aud ribbon trimmed.
Melted and jetted capes. and fancy manteiets
| barred upon thin material There are many
small chenille and crepe lie chine wraps which
may be used for changes at hotels and watering
places but are hardly suitable for the street.
aiid have no value except as an addition to the
graceful shoulder adcrnneats. so many of which
are considered necessary TO the completion of a
| fashionable wardrobe
DAINTY BELONGINGS.
Ihere Is no city in the world that has grown TO
such rennements in personal belongings aud i'm
| the arts of the toilet as Paris and the actual
status OF lady or gentleman, and particularly
OF a lady. Is much more clearly exhibited 10y her
personal habits and surroundings than by her
ciothes There lis none OF the baroness even i'm
hotels abroad that we are so apt to find at home
ana the care which in hotels gives sofa and
a
with elegance draperied bed, and mirrors in
abundance, in private life supplements
all these with dozens OF little nice
ties. all tending toward deIcacy. and an
EXQUISITE refinement in the case of the person.
lhefe are dainty instruments. fine as Jewels. for
the cure OF the nails. the eyebrows. the teeth.
| the skin, and even the ears. Brushes for all
uses include dozen ivory mounted and ill.,
closed in satin-wood. satin-lined cases Per-
| TUNED waters are distributed from crystal TASKS
| With silver tGToS that no GRADED fnr Quail
SO as to give it in quantity or drop 10y drop.
So1tenlng creams and velvety powders are con-
cealed in priceless little jars of Indian or old
blue China, and gloves and monchoirs are Kept
In cases that communicate TO them an indescri-
bab!e odor. faint yet most delightful
The underciothing used in the day time in
stead OF being folded as formerly a custom con-
sldered the very pink of neatness and order. is
| now hung upon the pegs of tall revolving
stand which occupies very small space in the
| dreSSlng-rOOm. and over this is thrown a light
cover OF linen which may be ornamented with
German embroidery or etching. Under a cotton
dress lady will not unfrequently wear silk
underc!othing. the underwear being much finer
and more dantily trimmed than the outside
Combs of every description. when not of ivory
are OF tortoise shell, and the shell are the more
desirable When lady goes to her bath.
| over her night dress of hatiste She
put dreSsing-gCwn of pale pink or
blue flannel and the null slippers into which she
| thrusts her white feet are satin-lined to match
| Toilet covers and draperies are trimmed with
quantities of exquisite lace, and chairs. baskets.
| hanging baskets and bird cages with ribbons
and flowers. How it is all kept so pretty and
fresh looking is a mystery. but the modern
French woman gives her mind to the care of her
body. or at least has succeeded in developing
asundant resources for the accomplishment of
her object.
| CHARACTERISTIC ORNAMENTS.
Ornaments have certainly passed beyond the
| massive metal or barbarousy gorgeous era. A
Characteristic or highly hand-wrought necklace
pm, ring. clasp or comb is more distinguished
than a mass of big diamonds, although the latter
should represent a fortune Doubtless these
last would attract attention to the wearer. but
they would also label her as belonging to the
new and vulgar rich who resorted to this method
OF displaying her wealth.
HE desideratum with refined women is the
| possession OF such characteristic ornaments as
are specialties of different localities. and not
easily obtained elsewhere. The coral of Naples
| the silver of Genoa, the cut stones and crystals
OF Germany. the mosaics of Rome. the enalnels
Oh Florence the carved work and delicate watch
mechanism OF Switzerland. and tile exquisite
manipulation of fine gems as seen i'm Paris One
rare ornament lasts forever, and is ALWAYS a
badge of hereditary nobility. 1t proves the pos
session OF taste and means. and experience of
travel in the generation that owned il and an
probation and intelligence i'm the generation
which preserves it. One good and real thing
enriched 10y human skill is worth whole world
OF such stuff as is found i'm most of the shops of
the Palais Royal, which has been fifty styled the
apotheOsis Of rubbish.
"HIGH" NOVELTIES
Everything in Paris is "haute nouveaute al
| though in reality there is no such thing as nov
city. and the same old design or fabric reappears
at regular intervals with the eNactitude of Ger.
tam diseaseS-small-pOX or scarlet fever At a
fashionable dressmaker's the other day lady
asked to have shapes of basques submitted to
her that she might chose from them. One was
brought This is the model Of one had made
In Paris four years ago." she exclaimed rather
cOntemptuOusly. "Ah! madame it was the
fault of your gOOd taste that you selected one
that has had such long life, replied the clever
Partisan.
But though the Partisan designers and moiis-
ties are stimulated by the constant demand, from
America particularly. for novelties, they know
too well the limitations of the dressmakers' and
mllners' art to suppose they can satisfy them
upon any legitimate basis. Originality is genius.
ana Is flower of rare growth. 1t cannot be
forced TO bloom every three months. The only
way, therefore, is to borrow their resources
from tricks. from eXaggerations. from cxtrava-
gances; and this they have done until fashion in
Its succession of grotesque and idiotic
absurdities has become a sort of Punch and
Judy show which attracts the crowd. but has
no interest for persons OF sense and inteli-
gence These changes are generally meaning
less. and simply involve fresh waste of time
and money. An original idea, as before remarked
Is rare ana even III III Is ABSURD. has some inter-
est, and is therefore entitled to acertain amount
of consideration. This is the merit of the
esthetic" idea. 1t is too eXquisitely absurd
you know" but it is different. and therefore
strikes that large class who want to be continu-
ally excited and struck by novelty and who find
that the current slang in regard to it not only
stands for brains, but sometimes actually passes
| for them.
The difficulty about good and fitting style of
dress is that 1t is not striking, and it has ele-
ments Of permanence These qualities do not
meet the wants of the throngs of rarer show ad-
mirers. who must have the cap and bells i'm some
form or other-sOmetimes as hoop sometimes
as Grecian bend. sometimes as a fiat bonnet
tilted low over the nose sometimes as a hat
with brim turned high in the air. At one time
every woman follower is set wild with desire for
an India shawl that must cost anywhere from
| nve to fifteen hundred dollars. The next year
the most 'chic" thing is to cut up these shawls
and make an ugly garment of them with enor-
nous sleeves, only suitable for giantess, called
| the dOlman.
| TALK WITH THE GREAT WORTH.
| Mr.. Worth has returned from Widbad and in,
long chat with him yesterday he showed clearly