The Portland daily press., 1881-10-12
.Harper's Bazar.l 4
New York Fashions.

The irnpf,ftations OF Paris dresses displayed
at the openings of large furnishing houses con-
sist almost entirely of short costumes. The
no sei features In these are made to produce
pr Inier effects, and also to give the appearance
c 4 full skirts. The materials used are heavier
thsn those OF last winter and consist OF plush.
velvet, satin moifa. cloth. Chaviot, aud the
heavy qualities OF cashmere and camel's hair.
There are basques, coats and poonsises, and
many dresses have the princesse effect in the
back, with basque and trimmed skirt in
front. The appearance of full skirts is given
by great peats-either siae pleas or box
pleats-extending from the waist 10 the foot,
hanging loose from the foundation skirt. and
usually trimmed at the foot. The oupdation
skirt benest til this is, however, closely gored.
and is in most dresses very narrow indeed
while in others it measures two and a half
yards in width. All drapery is very soft,
very full, and begins higher than any worn for
several seasons. The 'bow drapery,"
made of single wide bow of the
material ia on thref-fourths of the dresses
shown, and also on many wraps This bow
may be folded in loose loops of the stuff draped
a. back breadths, falling on each side in
loop three-eightbs or half 4 yard deep, without
being sewed in the seam of the skirt. IL is
however, more often made separately, and
sewed on one or two eighths below the belt.
amid the fullness of the back breadths, which
are attached by two great box pleats to the
belt. This bow is often made of half width
of cashmere in the single loops, each halfa
yard deep, folded softly, made to droop close
together, and tightly strapped at the top.
This, with the panier draperes that are sewed
to the basque, or that form part OF the polon
aise front, gives the full and bouffant effects
that make French dresses large enough with
ont the use Of artificial touruures. For the
pleated skirts there is handsome design OF
making two very wide double box pleats down
the back, then five side pleats. also very wide
are put lengthwise on each side, leaving ne
front plain This arrangement Is effecti' % in
condor brown moire for the box pleats, and al
ternate side pleats OF m ,ire and velve<6 The
basque of brown velvet is as long as q morning
coat, finished behind IN swo grestv box pleats
below which is the insariable bow, and the
bow is the only drapery on me pleafed skirt,
which Is tackled at iIltervs.is to the gored foun-
dation skirt
Worth cings tys velvet and displays its beau
ty in the great coats which he makes form
parts OF costu mes that are said to be- copied
from old portraits in the Fsubours St. Ger
main- These long stately garments are plain
and entirely undraped, yet are made boufftnt
by ttsists and folds OF velvet in panier shape
high on the hips. A pointed vest and two
deeply pleated valances on the skirt are usua
ly Of brocade or of embroidery. The vslve,
ski ft has no hounces, but merely the yalances
in front, aod two wide double box peats be-
hind. The brocaded velvet costumes are
Dsrst often combined with plain velvet aud
latin Of the same color.
GIoln with plush is oae OF the most stylish
combinations for winter costumes. Ths fancy
plushos in burrows aud in ombre stripes are
used, but these are also many plain pushes,
both in contrasting color TO the cloth, and also
in the same shade. A polvnaise of mustard
colored cloth is worn over ga net plush petit
coat A green cloth basque aud drapery has a
skirt OF striped gold and green plush; this Is N
graduated stripes that pass around the figure
A seal browa cloth basque has paniars and
skirt OF plaid shaded plush, showing ecru and
golden brown hues. B tile green, 0ronze aud
mustard colors are the fayorite for suits of one
hue made partly OF cloth aud partly of plush.
P0lonaises and basqubs with plush panier are
the 0ver.dresses OF such suits.
Worth uses three or four fabrics in the same
costume with fine effect. Thus a coat of seal
brown velvet will have boz drapery of MORE,
and = skirt with gold and brown brocaded vel
vet panels, pl Gated satin fronts aud two great
box pleats od plain velvet behind.
Nothing eau 90 more elegant than the hlack
COSTUMES oil satin that nave the skirt bali Gov
cred oy siugie deep II buuce OF brocsded vel
vet. Above THIS, aud cJnceaiing the upper
nall Jt the SKIRT 10 a coat OF back SATIN which
is Covered with Jet passementorie. From the
hips down the 0rocaded velvet is added, bs
Ginning at the cnt-away fronts aud extending
TO tue two box pleaJs of the middls forms
Real black Spanish lace is used Ia
friils on the ueck aud sleeves, and sbot IS
on the sides Other back satins have lace val
ances, or else are trimm-d with pissenenterle
panels made for the dress A Dlack satln dress
from Worth has tho antique po nted corsage 60
which the panIer Is attached IN pun that Tails
low on the SKIRT which mas SIDE pleats on the
sides, Two kIe3l oox pieats pehind, anu Two
valences OF jet passemei.terie across the front.
spanish lace noonces Trim the oox-l'ieated oaek
preadthss aud there are Two iaca Jtoots gu the
fr0ot OF Inc basque, WIN flit ~ the neck
Ehe npyoi feature OF TINS a'ess Is the sleeves
whiQa nave only one seam-tnat INSIDE the arm
and are shirred IN point az tne top, win
tho shlrrlnx insertea oes"seh Tue osck au
front Oh tne basque extending up 10 Tue heck
in pnint-
Serges and otner tWilied W'oen goods Or
dark stylish colors are used ior tns principal
parts OF simpie suits, ana are orightened ~
gay bright stuHs placed In the hollow OF lhe
box pleats OF the skirt, or as n,uDces, out not
in the over-skirt. The basque mas DOW OF me
gay stripes at the back, or else some position
pieatings, Byron Collar, and Dieatl"gs IRON
the neck to the waist line. Tue dark rms
green, scar orown, ana pun coioreu Sizes are
that reaarn hla cloths and are heavy euouyh for