The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-05-24
The City of Tunis.

An italian proverb says, "See Naples and
then die," and there is also an Arabian saying
to the same effect as regards Tunis but to the
European traveller the Mohammedan city,
with its mosques, its minarets, its huge palms
and fig trees and, above all, the great fortress
that dominates its site, will always be pre-
ferred. Unfortunately, on landing the pleas
ing Illusion is speedily lost, and that which ap-
peared from afar as succession of fine streets
and princely residences is found to be laby-
rinth of small lanes, the buildings generally in
wretched state of dlapitation and the narrow
roadways filthy in the extreme. Evidently
there has never heen any recognized plan in
its construction, but of late years, especially
since the occupation of Algeria by the French
the influence of European residents has result
ed in ameliorating and beautifying some of the
open sites with which the city is studded, but
which are mostly dedicated to cemeteries and
to the ruins of palaces and strongholds that
mark the salient history of Tunis since its
foundation in the birth of our civilization. The
city may be divided into three parts, respec
lively devoted to the Europeans, the Arabs
and the Jews. The square in which is situated
the Exchange presents fine appearance, be-
ing built with some semblance of regularity,
and containing the abodes of the consuls and
rich foreign residents. This quarter assumes
the liveliest and most picturesque appearance
during the busy hours Of the day, when Arab
Moor, Turk, Frank and Jew meet in this, the
principal mart of the northern coast of Africa,
where are to be found all the products of this
magnificent but as yet poorly explored conti-
nent.
The upper part of the city. forming species
of amphitheatre, is inhabited by the Mussul-
mans, and on the summit is the Kaslah or cit
adel which is justly celebrated for its oriental
magnificence, the approaches being embellished
with massive Roman and Saracenic ruins
with fountains shaded by marble porticoes
wrought with the most Intricate and elaborate
devices, with the upper spaces studded with
palm and other tropical trees. The citadel it,
self must have formed q redoubtable strong
hold during the middle ages, but with modern
artillery its heavy embellishments could be
preached in few hours. 1t contains many
monuments dedicated to the kings of Tnnis,
some huge towers on which are cut various
texts from the KoPan and an armory dating
from the time of Charles V. of Span, contain
ing most valuable collection of military tro-
phieS There is also an arsenal, powder
mandatory, and depots for provisions and
supplies; indeed, the citadel Is almost COM
plete city of itself, with It's arcades, its CALLER
ies its vaults and subterranean passages, in
which, without guide, it would be as easy to
lose ones way as in the catacombs of Rome.
From the ramparts is a most magnificent view,
but the chief attraction to the eye is the bey's
palace, the Darel bey, which is justly consld-.
cred as the finest type yet extant of the Nc
rescue style of architecture, and superior even
to the Alhambra in the beauty of its lace like
ornamentation, and the blilliancy of the COL
ored marble with which it is chiefly adorned
This superb building shows iu all its purlieus
that strange mingling Of misery and magnii-
cence that since the days of ''iaroun-Al-Ras-
chid'' and tile Thousand and Ono Nights"
appears to be inevitable in all oriental palaces
not subject to European rule