, 1881-11-12
DINING WITH KURDS.
How They Stuff Themselves aud Get
Fea-fully Intoxicated.

DINING WITH .kDRDS-
How They Stuff Themselves and Get
Fea<fully Intoxicated.
Central STA Letter to London Daily Ntfrs-
At length, the rather tedious tippllng pre-
lininaries over, we We're called to dinner,
and a regular Polyrlemus feast it turned
ont to he. The Ei1ir, who was
most anxious that everything should be
as much 4 IN Franca as possible, took his
seat ut one side OF the head Of the table. /
sat opposit to him. The head OF the table
was occupied by. a young nephew. 1t was
eyide,lt!y a kind Neutral of point. Next the
Emir sat his brother, another kurdisl, chief,
whose eyes were already beginning 10 look
"1ishy" from the effects Of his continued
libations. Next hin sat the son of the Emir,
I; lad Of Il, already HakiM, or Governor. Of
Shirwan. Other brothers and relations sat
III due order. Beside lie was Il colossal
Kurdish chief, Governor Of some outlying
district.
First, white soup. whose base was evil
dently milk, and highly seasoned with aro-
matte ilerbs, was brought in At the same
moment Musician with three-stcinsed
guitar struc1, up what, doubtless, was music
to the ears Of the company. To inille, like
kind vi confused jangte, devoid Of either
melody or harmony. The sonp was readily
disposed os, and. pentll,. the arrival of tile
next course, red anu white wine wis rapidly
s,llDc&: down from tile Russian ttl-yiassts,
likes,nal cylindrical tlEabIcrs, with 4 movable
outer Shell alsu handle Ut silver. Our first
meat course WAS very gnod, intieed-s,.lail
pieces OF meat, Whether stewe1 or roasted,
OF both, couldn't make t'c1, stuck urarl
small! wooden Skewcrs. This. my host ill.,
formed Int, wills kebat il IL blessed llus-
seiu.'' Next we had meat with mushrooms,
dishes l stopped cosa'iEg 1T tie
twfiftll course. | was urariy. suffocate.f
with food, though / pat1nuli but very
lightly Of each dish, and all the tlnls: my
his ein,1mous platetul clean, kept reproaciling
lie with not doing Justice 10 knra cookery.
In this country, Is we'll as among the Tur-
coa,ans- it is considered the highest polite
hiss for guest 10 stuff himself us full rs he
can possibly hnls:, and Then culllIsenct. !.
series of eruc1:,ions i'll hi, hosts face lis !,
prout OF the ilear1inesS Of his meal. 1t is
worthy of remark; that almost ietween every.
course wtter-plptS were called tUr and freely
smoked. 1t reminded me forci3!y Of
tables d'n6te of Spanish hotels ut smoking
cig:lrets between the courses. Nowhere else
have seen this practice. After I'LL indefnit
humber OF various courses we lad conserve
followed BY 4 heavy rice pilatf with buiIed
mutton. the piece dc resistance III :.l Urien-
tai coilntries- Next CAN'T: will fowl, and tile
meal terminated with llaslled meats Of diff
sweet dishes in the midst Of the meat courses
is truly Oriental. LII Turkey the pastry is
invariably the penui:iInatt, dish, and lie
heavy, substantial pila1f the last. l cannot
say appreciate the system by any means.
At tlIia juucture the old EMir" sent to his
sian manufacture, evidently presents fran
his generous nsgllbors. THESE hc took
great pride i'll winding III and setting going,
ard ti'e suitar-twanEer VS. obliged 70 cease,
inlinitly liSgustetl ut seeing himself thus
ecliIsed. The amount OF wine and arr;ck
consumed during the rtpast was very large
indeel, and the oyerdole reverence and
extreme respect for the Emr which
proceedings gradually died away, Civ
ing place 10 III, utter Disregard of
alI the proprietics.. Indeed, before the re-
past was half over The junior. members Of the
company Lad become nUlSlIy Intoxicated.
My negtibor. the Colossal Kurtl, and his yis-
avis, Iile En!r's brother, another massive
specimen of humanity, held out steadily;
but Aere was 4 wandering, watery look
about tile latter's eyes which told that the
end was not far otf. It this point ther.. WAS
another general distribution Of cigars Un
this occasion The Emir first lit and Smoked !:
little OF the cigar, aud then. calling out each
PERSONS name in turn, the Individuals calue
into their mouths. This bestowlnG Ut lighted
cigars WAS considered an extremely higl.
honor conferred On the recipients:
At this point THE dinner had degencEatcd
into = mere debauch. Some parties were
seated OH the pavement uttcrliy inartic,t-
late howis In I'LL attempt to sing. Others were
proie.aaulg to and tro, their feet IA: III front
of their botiies supported under the arilS
by Il couple Of Servants. The greater 1.unt-
1lut.1 han
over each otlier III vain attempts to get oil
their legs. Myself. the ctlussal kurti, and the
grinl-lookillg household physician were, l
belive. The only sober persons left except the
scryaulS-tlle latter being forced. doubtless
much TO lileil regret. to act lis look:rs-on
only. LII Peisi:1 It's III Russia. llu >ellsa Of
shame whatever scents to attacn to tlrlilkc,-
ness. II was past midnight, and yet there
ties, ana began to feel somewhat aniuus us
to hoW Eiatters were going to end l llearti
the Elnir several times ask where / was,
though w:s not six feet distant. AT last
usual custom in Persia that when 4 guest is
invited to supper he PASSES the night III his
hosts house This custom is probably slue
to tile extreMc lateness OF the hour at which
supper is usually eaten, and the dark, ro,1gl.
roads and lanes the guest would lave to
traverse on his way holil.. In latter years
another festive reason doubtless largely
contributes to the advi$abitty of tile III
sited not tempting the lan.ers of the mid
night streets Thanking the E1nir fof Ills
htSpltable attentions, tut cxcusiug myself OH
the plea of having much IL write, took my
leave, directing my eseps toward my .lingy
carayansary, and accompanied by two ut the
Emir's servants, each bearing Il Chinese
lantern LIS large as tile big drum Of Il res-
1llent. Such is banQuet away i'll Persian |
kurdistan, on the lnarse of the vast desert
atl the More curious perhaps for the tinSe of |
Western iniluence that mingled with ii-ull |
tflIkr
that till:c caslle. All through the banuue; I |
llotlced one tel1dercy-a!l the li,urc remark |
aeIe for the attempt tn suppress it lit my |
presence hail Russia as Il friend, to co,i- |
slider her already 4 nelghbor, and to drink |
the health Of tie Car.