The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1881-10-26

that will vie with London or Paris in the
nobility ofits buildings. Hard by, streets
narrow and tortuous, are Boulevards,
straight and imposing; and long rows of
fine business squares, without break,
attest the subordination of private to
public importance. The quays are lined
with buildings of noble proportions, and
crowded with vessels of every nation, in
important trade.
Rouen possesses probably the most val
liable collection of paintings in France
outside of Paris. The inhabitants, though
devoted to trade, have made an unusual
ly fine collection of valuable works of art.
It's academy contains more than five hun
dred paintings. The collection took its
origin from the paintings taken from the
converts and churches suppressed in the
revolution of 1898, and has subsequently
been vastly enriched by important pur-
chases by the city as we'll as gifts by
private individuals and the government.
The most valuable are Jesus Chez Marthe
ct Marie, by Jordaens Alteration des
bergers, by Rubens; La Vierge de Lixte,
by Raphael; and Un portrait d'homme,
by Titan. A day of great enjoyment
can readily be passed in this truly re-
markable gallery.
The Gothic Work of Rouen
is, however, the chief attraction to the
traveller. The linen market, an old
and large building, and the Palais De
Justice, have been much admired, and
are very beautiful monuments of the mid
Il 10 p,,t h. II, 0f
the most worthy of notice for the perfec-
tion of it's architecture and the beauty of
its painted windows. An exquisite gem
of Gothic architecture The first stone
was laid in 1913, and the choir chapels
and transept were finished Immediately.
The nave and tower are 100 years later,
but the plan is retained. The central
tower is 260 feet high, and is model of
finished beauty. The south portal is as
delicate bit of taste as was ever trans
ferred into stone. The interior is 443
feet long and LOG feet high. All the
windows are of painted glass, and the
stranger is invited to look at the rehec-
ton of the perspective of the nave from
the holy water basin by the western en-
trance.
The Cathedral is also of vast proper
tions and elaborate decorations. But for
the make-believe spire we would rank
the Cathedral of Rouen above the famous
Notre Dame of Paris. The central spire
is detestable and disfguring iron work,
replacing the one burned down. The
whole external work of the front wall is
exceedingly elegant. Dark ages, the
middle ages, may have been, but they
put deal of light and beauty in the
stone work they did Much of this vast
Cathedral was wrought in the 18th CEN
tury, yet from nave to transept, from
every curve in yonder dome 100 feet
overhead, to the minutest carving of the
curious stalls by my side, thought is Wis
ible, as varied, as rich, as airy, as thor
ough and conscientious as aught wit
messed in any architecture of our boasted
modern times. Alas that there is no
correlation between the place and the
worship While we visit the Cathedral
service is in progress. A certain solem-
nifty there is in the ritual, but it is a wor-
ship of priests rather than of the people.
A few of the lowest orders of society are
present to humble their Paters and Ave
Marias and bow before the images OF the
Virgin and the saints, and watch the
numerous priests intone High Mass with
melodious voice, and swing the censer,
and display the back of richly embroid-
cred mantles, and adore the holy relics
with extraordinary devotion. But where
are the middle classes, where the think
ing, stirring men and women Of the age
in France? They have abandoned the
Cathedral. Why? because the Cathe-
dral is at war with modern ideas. To-
day on every hand there is determina-
ton to make an end of cLericalism-a de-
termination announced with emphasis at
the last general election, and one which
undoubtedly means more than merely
crippling the Cathedrals and clipping the
wings of the clergy. Absolute renuncia-
ton of religion seems to be the point at
which French society is aiming, 1t is
the doing Of the Catholic Church herself,
much as she and all good men may fear
for the destiny of an utterly irreligious
society. She has long been preaching
that there is nothing between faith in
her dogmas and general unbelief. The al
tentative is now accepted in France, and
the Church which is incapable of modifi-
cation, which has openly declared war
against modern society and human rea-
son has her reward, in utter abandon
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