Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1881-08-13

we feel, II we do not see, the r0uhu
orbs decline and rise behind long
level lines of crimson hue, which
change into pinky radiance as he
rises without setting. Two ships APP
pear, like phantoms, to break the soil
tude of the scenery. Again we 60 to
our berths disappointed, but not alto
gether unenthusiastic; for are we not
assured by science and our eyes that
there is no sunset hereY
Are we, after all, to go home ungrat-
fled? Upon this misty morning 0f the
last Of June, arising at 8, | seek some
relief from the monotony of daylight
and volcanic mountain; for the pros
poets above TrOmsoe are not equal to
those below. The SHOWS and clouds
commingle so that it seems one I'M
broken whiteness upon the lonely
shores. The air is damp and mugRy,
except in the south, where we least
want it clear, and there it is illumined
with blue streak of light. Not a
sign of human or other life now APP
pears not even a duck, or a sail. 1t
is the skeleton of the world, in its
shroud. We have, while asleep, passed
over some open sea, and are within the
protection Of the islands on the west.
At 10 o'clock next morning We are
at Hammerfest, which, although it is
the uppermost town in Europe, is not
the upper end of our journey. 1t Is
not SO large by half as Tromsoe, for
it has only about 5000 population. Ii
looks more like seaport. The har-
Dor is full of little fishing boats plying
their trade. We walk to the rocky
stream which gushes out OF the frozen
lake, all covered with snow, and en-
deavor to reach the Lapp encampment,
which the melting snow forbids. We
enter the snow huts of the people on
the outside of the town. They are
very dirty and squalid; but the roofs
are already green with grass, where
there is better provender for the
stunted yellow cows with short legs
and fall Rdders. than amidst the rab-
Bile and SHOWS of the common at the
margin of the lake, beneath the rocky
mountain. We were not a little puz-
zled at the useless cultivation Of grass
upon the roofs of these houses, mas
much as no one seemed to practice the
economy Of the Scotch peasant, who
CARRIED his COW on top of his roof,
and evening, to eat Of the
grass. forgetting how easy it would
have been to eat it, and carry it to the
COW.
HAY IN LAPLAND.
Almost as much care is taken to dry
the hay in Norway as the fish, for the
weather has its vicissitudes, and the
winter is long and wedsisome to man
and beast. For some time we were
at a loss to understand the meaning of
the great bundles of poles, like exag
gerated fascee or piled together like
the lodges of the red man of our land.
They are found everywhere in the
fields of southern Norway. They
stand in the meadows or lean against
barn and fence, and attract attention
at every view. What can they be2
At last the solution came. They are
used for curing hay. Hay is hung up
10 dry. Stakes are set about six feet
high and pins inserted, on which
these slender poles are laid. The
poles are so arranged that when the
grass is placed upon them they shed
rain. The sun and wind soon do the
making, allied by stalwart females.
These impFovised hedges are features
of southern Norwegian landscape,
They are thoroughly rural, and quite
in contrast with the bleak aspect OF
the fjords.
Passing down the principal avenue
of Hammerfest, called Neddre-G Con
nevvolsgaade, we see a neat little
church. Its bell rings. We enter,
aud are met by a Catholic priest, a
Hcllander, who is here at work edu-
eating and preaching. His name is
the Rev. Father Crull. He calls to
his aid the Rev. Father Hagerman, a
German, who is here as director Of the
Catholic missions in Lapland and
Fipmark. Wine aud music, and
many pleasant chat, ending with a
benediction, and we are placed under
the direction of a young Morse teacher,
who tenders her service to help US
about Hammerfest. The church only
numbers thirty.four, and its age is but
a few years.
AN ARCTIC CUsTOMHOUsE.
Under tine conveyance vi our beau
tiful genius loci, Mademoisellt
Gabonier, we visited the docks about
the harbor, which is full of activity
We note how many watchmakers' anC
clock shops there are in Hammerfest
"a sign Of confusion as to night and
day. Some twenty open boats Of the
antique mould. such as was recently
dug up near Christiania, we're prepaT.
ing to unload their fish at the rec
warehouses which overhang the water
They are Lapp vessels. The 6sf
were Of divers kinds; some red, anC
very large. The Lapps are not a mic,
set to look upon. They do not com
pare with the toughest of the Nor
wegian fishermen for cleanliness @
behavior. Their waamuses (as VI
used to call them out Vest, or loosl
coat Of white, thick, and dirty WOODEN
are held by belt-sometimes market
with the name Of the oWner-fFoH
which depends the Norwegian knife
which seems to be worn openly b
everybody. This is a most innocen
weapon, and only used for honest pur
+ poses. Drunk as arc many of thes
Lapps, and rolling about the docks j
stupid glee, yet no violence results
no insults are given. About us, as "
walk, are people eating and drinkin
at coffee stands.
Here, far off at this end of tn
earth-as an evidence of civilization
| suppose-is the inevitable Custom
house, with the red flag of Norws