New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-02-06
COFFEE IN FRANCE.
credit now
From The London Globe.


The first coffee root planted in France in the
gardens of the King. at Paris. in 1714 where il
speedily persisted. 1t was imported by N. de Res
son. Licutenant-Genera of the Artillery. 1t IS
said that the berry was not known in France TIL
1857, when the Venetians imported It, to the great
disgust of the doctors; who thereupop prophesieed
evil things. Nevertheless, it had great vogue. In
1860 the Ambassadors of Mahomet III. brought a
large quantity of coffee presumably in bulll, which
beginning of 1900 that Siciian named PrOcope
founded the celebrated cafe bearing his name, IN
front of the Coincide Francalse, wLIch became the
rendey0us of lovers OF the DRAMA the battlefield OF
literary disputes, and was attended. as is certain
London literary club. by gentlemen eminent IN
their respective spheres" Here Voltare passed two
hours every day. Madame de Seyigne put on a bold
front against the prevailing fashion, but struggled
in vain, may well be imagined when she foretolti
pether on one and the same day.
The French housewife, than whom there IS no BET
ter preparer of the fragrant cup, will tell you that
one of the essential conditions of coffee being good
is that it be old. When il IS new 1t is acrd and ex
citing. With age it loses these defects and Thus
NAV be compared TO wine. Mocha coffee is the best:
In France is rarely found in the large grOcers
shops. But the Bourbon is nearly equal to it, Coffee
from Martinique is stronger and more exciting than
those already mentioned and requires longer Keeping
t ia easy of course to buy large quantity of the
green bean n time. add to the stock as it dimn
lshes year by year. taking care that tine storc-ro0n
is dry and above all that no strol gsmeing condi-
ments are placed the coffee jar. such AS WOr-
ccster sauce. pickles, Indian CONNECTIONS and the
rest Coffee has wonderful tendency to borrow
the less fragrant perfume OF other decacles 10 de-
strOy its own.
Beware of roasting tho bean too much. All
travelled Engshmen in France have seen garconS
twirling the cylnder-shaped organ containing the
bean in process Of being cooked, and VIII have re-
marked how very few Turns serve TO render 1t lat Tor
the mill. A clever cook, when such machine is not
available, will obtain the same result by pouring
sufficient sweet oil to cover the bottom of a frying
pan. and shaking tho beans therein for minute or
two TIL they attain the slightest brown tint, and
letting them leap at once from the frying pan into
the mill, thence into the French humble double tin
ca,etip, in which only true coffee is to be
made Above all, let it be made by the lady of
the house in the dinng-rOom before her guests. Ii
is a worry simple proposition to make but Kitchen
coffee is never good when il is prepared by the
head OF the establishment servants will Just
merely" keep back part of the brown powder for
their own use, or will deluge tho cOttee-pOt with
water with the same view. Moreover, 1t is the true
beginning of the end" If the guests have dlned well;
they have three further pleasures before them: The
elegance with which their hostess manipuates her
kettle her cofre-pots and cups the delicious aroma
that speedily fills the room and chases away the too
long lingering fumes of a cOelette Ia SOgtise or the
acrld vapors OF soup la bonnie fere, aud the hual
enjoyment OF the precious liquor that Will render
digestion easy and therefore insure their success
with the lldIes in the drawing-rOOm after the per-
fumed chdSse has been duly discussed.