The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1881-05-19
[Harper's Bazar.J
New York Fashions.

Thh season for summer travelling is at hand,
and travelling dresses are in demand. Chew
lots and fannels are the materials most used,
and there is a wider liberty in choice of colors
than formerly. The rougn flashed Cheviots
are usually melange of colors, with some
prevailing hue, such as condor brown, bronze
or olive green, with stripes or bars of red or
orange that may be ndistinct and merely sug-
gested, though the stripes are apt to he OF even
widths and we'll defined. These come in
double widths like CLOTH cost from 81 to 50
yard, and require six or eight yards for the
suit. The aannels are of lighter quality, and
are especially liked this year in tan-colors and
in olive green shades, though the popular blue
flannel will not be discarded. When plainly
and tastefully made, these light wooden dresses
serve for morning suits at the cool
mountain and seaside resorts The
favorite corsage for such dresses is
the shooting jacket with double box pleat
each side of it; the Byron collar, vide belt
strapped on at the sides, and two rows of but
waist, which, to be we'll fitted, must
be made over cl>se lining like any
other basque. For ladies who are too stout for
the pleated waist, short position basque is
used, made as plainly as that of riding-habit;
the front should be cut away from the waist
line, the edges should be even all around-not
shorter on the hips-and the back should have
series of fiat fan-ike pleats, or else two large
box pleats in the middle form. For the round
ckirf fau OF ic a Of
for trimming, and narrow box-pleatng is set
on at the foot, being sawed to the edge of the
skirt, and hanging below it. The tucks may
be two inches wide, with space their own
width between, aud may be four, six, or eight
in number. The imported dresses, however,
have narrow tucks only half an inch wide, ve-
ry close together, and with single cluster of
six or eight tucks; similar cluster of tucks is
repeated on the pointed over-sklrt, which con-
sists Of an apron made of single breadth, with
the point drawn to one side. and full straight
back breadth tucked on three sides, and very
slightly draped. The top of this back breadth
may be pleated to the waist, and the lower
half slit upward in the middle and caught up
in pleats so that tho falling sides each form a
point. When the cloth used is heavy enough,
rows of stitching complete the basque and
over-skirt, and the whole suit is made in the
simple and severe style in which tailors made
up cloth costumes during the winter. The
round apron over-skirt, with stitched edges, is
still seen on tailor-made suits, while others dis
pense with wrinkled drapery in front, and use,
instead. three straight stitched forms across
the front and side cores, while still others open
these forms in the middle, having q series of
square cornered pieces, each stitched in rows
down each side. AT the furnishing stores the
full round skirts, with full straight back
breadths and apron fronts are commended as
light and simple for mountain dresses OF fan
mel. These have tucks and pleating for trim
ming the skirt, and are very youthful looking.
Still others have two deep killed pleats all
around the skirt, while the top has short
wrinkled apron that is shirred in rows down
each side, and is fully draped behind. Such
dresses of olive green or of coachmans drab
flannel, made up with pretty hunting jacket,
are sold for S2150; while those with a round
skirt and apron are $17 or SIS. For the latter
two pretty capes like coachmen's capes are
added, and may be buttoned ON or left off at
pleasure: passementerie ornaments with cords
connecting them, are on the back and front of
the basque. Small buttons of polished bone or
of vegetable ivory are used with these dresses.
A square bag like the dress material, or else
one of seal or alligator skin, is worn attached
to the belt.
A poke bonnet of rough straw, either bronze,
black, or old gold color, will be the popular
choice to wear with travelling dresses. Featll-
ers in small clusters of tips, or two half-long
plumes, or a single long plume will be the
trimming with large bow and strings, il re-
quired of satin Surah ribbon. The mousque-
taire gloves are OF chamOis skin, with loose,
long wrists, and are usually of tan-color. The
travelling cloak may be jacket or short,
shirred mantle to match the dress; but the
more popular wrap Is a long Ulster or a Mother
Hubbard cloak Of some English homespun
n nf ant frnn fhn nd itnh1 In 90
be worn over various suits. Indeed, many la
dies prefer to wear this cloak on short journeys
as 1t is long enough to protect any nice
costume it may be convenient to use, and they
are thus not restricted to a travelling dress.
Fer midsummer the coolest cloaks are made of
India pongee, shirred at the neck, waist and
sleeves in Mother Hubbard style.
Very long loose-wristed gloves without but
tons. or else with two buttons at the wrist,
though closed above, are the stylish choice
this season. The Sake or Bernhardt glove is
closed ali the way like stocking, while the
mousquetaire gloves have a slight opening at
the wrist to be closed by two buttons. These
are worn made of undressed kid for most occa-
sions, for full dress as well as for shopping;
the same STYLES are used in chamois skin and
in glace-inished heavy skin for general wear
and for travelling. Tan colors, condor brown
and black are the colorS most desirable, and
these are worn for full dress or with the sim
pleSt walking costume There is no longer
any matCnluS Oh gloves TO Une ureSS. Inc Tan
colorS are worn with any dress even with those
of white satin, and within a few weeks have
been adopted by bridesmaids at fashionable
weddings; there are also light shades of tan
that will be considered specially stylish with
white muslin dresses during the Summer.
White gloves are confined to brides, and are
not even seen on the bridegroom, as IL is the
latest custom at the most ceremoniouS we'd
dings for the bridegroom, his best man and the
ushers to appear without gloves The long
closed gloves vary in length, those most popu-
larly worn being equal in length to gloves that
are fastened by four or six buttons, while
those to be worn with short or elbow sleeves
are as long as if fastened with ten or twelve
buttons.
A pretty caprice for Frightening up black
dresses or to add to white toilettes, is set con-
ssting of spread fan, pocket for the hand
kerchief and Medicis collarette, made of Su-
rah satin trimmed with Spanish lace of the
same color, and clusters of flowers. To enliv-
en- black dresses these are made of rose-pnk
Surah, on which is pleated Spanish lace of the
same color, and punches of dark red roses To
wear with white dresses pale blue Surah or
else ivory white is used, trimmed with blue or
with white blonde and the bright yellow Mar
shall Neil roses. The fan is made in radiating
pleats mounted on spread Japanese fan of
large size. A bow of satin ribbon is tied round
the bamboo handle.
Ona6re sashes of satin Surah three yards long
and made OF an entire bre adth of the fabric,
are sold fol 50. They are folded around the
hips like paners, and tied behind in large
bow of long dropping loops with short ends.
Cinnamon rad shades and those of olive green
are most liked with white null dresses.
A young German was once pressing his suit,
and in the midst of his ardor questioned the
=. L. IL "a l.