Delaware state journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1870-1883, 1881-06-30
FASHION AT THE SPRINGS.
THE VERY L1TEST AGONIES IN
DRESS.
The MomentOus Question Of Sleeves
Miracles In Gloves - Travelling
Suits-A Pleasant Watering Place.

Suits-A Pleasant Watering Place.
Special Correspondence Of State Journal
RlcnPlELD SPRINGS, N. Y, June o.
On the sleeve question there is
a break up of party lines quite
equal tothat in the Republican
lamp. Like the Conkling thunder
cloud comes the Gigot or bishop
sleeve, so much like the old
''leg of mutton that the un-
initiated easily mistake ons for the
other. But dressmakers know that in
stead of being cut all together, as the leg
Of mutton was, its newer substitute has
the immense balloon puff at the top, set
on Independently. OF course this daring
sleeve (like the aforementioned political
chainpion) has its more humble followers
and We see sleeves having puffs of modest
dimension at the top or with two moderate
puffs divided by shirring. On the
other hand, the straight. close sleeve
stands firm as if held in the grip OF
administrative patronage. One advances,
the other retreats, but only to come up
again victorious, and an edifying combat
is promised us during months in the
future. As a result, however, the public
reaps no small advantage; the young
lady distressed by an arm too thin can
take shelter beneath puffngs and, hiding
her native poverty. present good outside
appearance, while she, with rounded arm,
who fears not the scanning of critical
eyes, can wear sleeve fitting close to
natures fair proportions. Both are
stylish.
PERAMBuLATISG PUFFIYGs.
The word "shirring,' used a moment
ago. brings up fertile train of rehec-
tions. Of shirring there is no end; it is
the rage. On the corsage, nothing more
fashionable than shirrings; placed in all
sorts of ways, running around the neck
like broad collar, traversing the front
or back, or both; surplice fronts are
shirred at the waist; belts and sashes are
shirred; shlrrings are on sleeves; over
skirts are shirred, while skirts are some
times shirred throughout the entire front
and side breadths. Again, there are
shirrings in delicate touches ON the cos
tune, to say nothing of varied access
sories-sashes, bows, &c, which, made
of soft silk, are caught at the ends
by rows of shirring. 0ftentimes a
spike or ball of beads is added (for one is
not much in the way of fashion just now
without a beaded addition somewhere)
and occasionally quite grotesque results
| accrue,a as for example where a lady whose
| overdress is entirely composed of length
wise divisions shirred at the ends and
caught by beaded spike. happens to be
| overtaken by high wind. Away they
| fly in a circuit around her and the
| question arises as to whether that can
| properly be called a skirt. Near akin to
these popular shirrings are pufhngs; so
| much so that the former are often dis
| placed by them. One or more pufings
| around the neck are looked upon as a
| seasonable ornamentation row of
| putting on the lower edge of the skirt is
equally in favor while at the wrists
| puffed trimming serves in place of the
more conventional cuff. Some white
muslin costumes are mass of shirrings
| throughout-as for example one recently
gotten up for Emma Abbott (who spends
the summer here at Richfield Springs)
of cream white null. As accompanying
finishes are a hat of shirred null and
parasol in keeping. Let stout people,
however, beware of these mutations,
choosing rather the severer attractions OF
close fitting designs. OF such the Baronne
polonaise Is very tasteful, being close on
the hips, falling in shawl-shaped point
at the left and draped high at the sides.
But where one desires good deal of fshirr-
ing there is nothing prettier than cos
tune such as Miss Abbott wore the other
day. 1t was of light wool and silk pale
blue and gold made Aurelia waist in
surplice style; the sleeves were in two
puiis with shirring between and a shirred
belt and sash gave finish. The Carita
overskirt showed a back drapery rather
bouffant; the front arranged with
shirred apron draped high in the middle
and falling in points at the sides.
CLOVIS.
| She who has penetrated the inner
portals of the Temple of Fashion, now
wears tan colored gloves-llid or chamois
skin-made without buttons and often
times of length that, if permitted to
take its natural course, would reach
quite to the elbow. But just here comes
i'll the Shibboleth the sign which dis
tinguishes from the common and outside
world. That stretch of kid or goat skin
does not follow its natural bent in life, but
is allowed to hang in crumples on
crumples, wrinkles on wrinkles about
the wrist, presenting an appearance the
| most-U cannot use the word | want, for
fear my language might be thought too
-strong) so will settle down on
"peculiar,' which | trust will
be satisfactory to all parties, and
sufficiently deterential to the class of
ladies under review. These gloves are
most tender point in the estimation of the
fashionable at the present moment and
are worn not only with costumes of silk
or wool, but with their muslins and even
white satin. More ordinary mortals; that
is to say, the majority, will have none of
this, but still wear gloves fitting to the
wrist or arms, aud here We find in addi-
tion to kid, both Isle thread, silk and
lace mitts in unspeakable variety. Yet
tan is a favorable shade; much affected
even by conservatives prevailing in
gloves of all kinds and worn with cos
tunes of every color. Other stylish colors
worn even by the exclusives above men,
toned, are gold, golden brown, gray or
black. Both gloves and mitts too of all
degrees are very long on the wrist.
TRAVELLING, YACHTING AND MOUNTAIN SUITS.
Among the fashionable parties who are
now daily arriving, preference given to
light flannel or tweed costumes is quite
noticeable. Most of the former are made
with tailor finish, but the latter have
usually some pretty stripe in combina-
tion. In the way Of design, nothing is
more in favor than the Sutherland cos
tune composed of a skirt trimmed with
gathered hounce, an overskirt showing a
draped apron and full back drapery with
tucked blouse waist confined by a belt.
This would be very suitable also for a
mountain or yachting suit to be completed
by soft knocked i'm felt hat, desirable
because not susceptible of injury. Other
nice travelling suits are made with the
new Ascot basque-dOuble breasted, box
plated and confined by belt and pocket.
In conclusion, | will make no apology
for transporting my readers from dull
New York pavements to life at watering
places where New York fashions reign.
Here at Richfeld Springs the principal
change since last season has been the
virtual rebuilding of the American
House by Mr.. Welch of the New York
St. Nicholas. Fresh breathing cleanliness
is everywhere; walls throughout newly
papered and painted; floors recarpeted-
parlors in Moquette; beds and bedding
: all new. The old kitchen and laundry
are demolished and substitutes are now
located at the extreme end of a new wing
200 feet long, thus doing away with odors
, of cooking, noise of dishwashing, &c
Adjoining is the dining room, spacious and
handsome, while leading to it is a grand
hall Is feet wide by $50 feet long. The old
bar room is taken from the piazza, and in.
-. j =.