New Ulm weekly review. [volume] (New Ulm, Minn.) 1878-1892, 1881-02-16
fuller than they have been made at any

fuller than they have been made st anv
time since short skirts were revived.
though they are not made in the classic
shapes popular here that depend so en-.
tirely upon their fullness that draperv
is dispensed with. On the CONTRARY.
inc hrst lmportations show great deal
OF draperry very bouffantly arranged,
with scarf sashes that pass around the
Inquire, and give the fullness of paniers
below the hips. Indeed, sash effects
are gwen in many ways, not only with
tne gay fabrics of trimmings, but with
whole breadths of the dress material
that are draped quite straight, or else
doubled at the lower end without being
cut apart, or perhaps they form one
mammoth bow on the left side, and a
pointed corner on the right. The front
and side cores are clinging, and these
are still made the objective points for
trimming. For instance, shirring,
which has now extended to heavy
cloths, will cover the upper half of the
front and side cores, while below this
will be square points of handkerchiefs.
or receding scarfs opening over pleated
founces, or perhaps series of scarfs
of satin will be shirred at intervals
across the front gore, and pass under
brocaded side breadths that are as flat
as panels, but which are faced with a
contrasting color of satin, velvet, or
plush, that makes itself visible without
being too conspicuous.
The Jersey jacket worn during the
summer has given suggestions for some
OF the new features of cloth and cancels
hair costumes, and in some suits the
Jersey webbing, like stocking net, is
used for the clinging waists or polo
naises of such dresses. For instance,
navy blue costume has a polonaise
laced behind made of Jersey webbing,
fitted by middle seam in front, and
under-arm seams without darts. The
collar and the sash drapery are of blue
plush lined with light yellow Surah,
while the skirt is blue cloth laid in kilt
pleats. Another costume entirely of
black has the Jersey polona!se of web
bling, without darts, to which is at
tached kilt of black camel -hair: a
sash of polka-dotted black satin forms
the boutfant drapery, and conceals the
seam that joins the kilt to the polonaise.
Less conspicuous than these dresses,
which are meant only for very young
ladies and misses, is the jersey basque,
which is fastened in front, but is based
upon the Jersey idea of dispensing
with useless seams, and is therefore
made with the French back that has no
side bodies, while the fronts have but
one dart, though there is often narrow
plastron or a slender vest added, which
compels another seam, though conceal
ing 1t at the same time, and this gives
the fullness required for the bust, which
is usually made by the second dart.
This is handsomely illustrated in
black camel s-hair suit that has copper
red satin with black polka dots for
trimming. This gay satin forms narrow
vest not four inches wide down the front
OF the black basque, also shirred
round collar so deep as to nearly cover
the shoulders. A breadth of this satin
is draped like panier sash on the edge
of the long. plain basque, which, with
its few seams, is made to follow every
outline of the figure from the throat
down low on the hips. The sash is
shirred to the front of the basque, and
is fastened on the left side under a clus-
ter of loops of black satin ribbon that
is copper red on the wrong side; the
sash is spread out wider across the
back, and forms an immense bow, with
ends that hang almost to the edge of
the skirt This skirt has first a silk
foundation, which is faced at the bot
tom with camel s-hair, on which is
narrow pleating of red satin, and also
one of black; beneath this is balay-
euse of white muslin embroidered with
red. This whole silk skirt is then con-
cealed by one long kilt pleating Of
black camers-hair sewed on a few
inches below the belt, so that it will
not be clumsy around the hips, as that
would spoil the fit of the close Jers ey
basque; this killing stops just below
where the satin pleating borders the
foundation skirt of silk.
Quite different from these suits are
other cloth dresses that are made gay
by combining them with tartans or
Madras plaids of satin Surah. The
corsage is a habit basque of cloth,
either olive or seal brown, with shirred
plaid Surah passed around the neck
and down each side of the 'front.' The
cloth skirt is then shirred across the
front, and has most boufant draperies
of the plaid Surah arranged in points
like handherchiefs at the back, and held
by bows of many loops of green satin
ribbon, with red on the reverse side.
Very handsome dresses for the demi-
season are shown of black Surah satin,
trimmed with many pleatings of the
same, much jet embroidery on lace, Jet
fringe, with facings and balayeuse
founce of heliotrope Surah. The
mOuchoir costumes of medium weight
of wool are for autumn wear, and are
made in most bouffant styles.
For later in the season, cloth dresses
are combined with striped velvet or
plush, and there are velvet costumes of
new and elegant designs. A prune vel
vet suit is embroidered all over with
polka dots of the same shade, and
trimmed with shirred Surah satin scarfs
that cross the front and extend down
the sides in panels. The boufant dra-
perry of the back is formed by the SUI
rah arranged in sash effects, and bor-
dered with the velvet. The waists OF
such suits are single-breasted coats of
the velvet, with deep shirred Surah col
lar, or else a broad Byron collar of the
velvet piped with Surah. Large square
pockets on the sides. In other cos
tunes the Surah satin forms the great
coat, with Louis Quatorze vest Of bro
caded velvet, in which the detached
flowers are as large as a lady's hand.
Rich passementerie ornaments trim the
paneled sides of such dresses, and a
row Of chenille fringe often edges the
panel where it falls on the border
tlounce.-Harper's Bazaar.
FRANK WATKINS, a twelve-year-old
boy in Penn Yam, N. Y. coughed up
the other Gay brass hook which he
had swallowed ten years ago. It has
been supposed that the boy had con-
sumption, but since getting rid of the
hook he seems much better.
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, who had an
almanac for saying wise things, once
remarked: 1T is hard for an empty bag
to stand upright Why one should