Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-03-01
ESTABLISHED 1850.

reduce ones idea to its lowest terms In other
words, decide what we do not want before we
begin to consider what we do. The idea Is not
yet developed into an art, is thought of but by
few. and Is clearly understood by none that
viii be likely 20 undertake the task OF teaching
unto Others But it Is the true idea OF dress,
and contains q law obeyed by every one who
endeavors to make her dress express its true
and honest purpose. Probably actresses are
the only class who educate their eyes and
their intelligence to the artistic point so
Iar as their dress is concerned; and Of these
there are very few who know when
and where to stop even IL they have
learned how to begin. A dress worn by a
celebrated actress in the first act Of Camille ="
recently. would illustrate the idea wish to
convey, IL could reproduce its exact pictured
Semblance, which of course Is impossible. It
was composed OF brocade of the palest shade
OF green, and thick, pure ivory.white satin, The
effect was such that a trained eye, without
finding any shape or manipulation OF materials
20 represent the flower, said at once camellia' -
There was no fringe. no ribbons, no ends OF
this, that or the other. but perfect simplicity
and purity or outline. and the white and pale
green.
Two other dresses worn by the same actress
during the progress of the same play were
equally correct. and representative OF the CEN
tral idea OF the act during which they were
worn. One of soft. thin ivory WOOL with round
ehirred waist and bunch of heart6ease at the
beis, was simple cottage dress. Another of
white satin and brocade, glittering with beaded
from gorgeous diamonds, was ball dress. and
each OF these dresses was so distinctive as to
tell It's own story; so perfect in its way that
nothing could be added or diminished
THE ART IDEA
is only new as applied to dress The theory of
1t has always been applied TO plays, and It has
been adopted by the modern school of French
novelists. That is. q modern French novel
turns upon single incident upon which every
thing else that happens has bearing, towards
which it leads and to which it is subordinated
and in the elimination of which the story ends
This central idea is the main thing. and the
ART Is In building up and around and about it,
SO that the laws of harmony and proportion
shall be observed and the subordinate parts
shall not overstep the main structure or dis
figure instead of add to and beautify it. How
often this is done in dressl Trimmings piled
up on worthless fabric; costumes top heavy,
colors fighting each other. or the whole giving
the Impression OF having been brought together
by an earthquake or convulsion in dry goods
rather than by deliberate forethoNght and in.
tentlon. Of course it Is not possible for the
majority or women to study up the art idea
and adapt it to every day use except SO far as
1t may prove OF use in simplifying details and
getting MD OF eneumbrances. The general
pIinclple Is Identical with the special principle
laid down as elementary, viz: to first find out
What 70 get rid Of or what not to have, and
then the task OF what to have for the purpose
required Is very much simplifed
GIRL DREssAAK" RS.
Why do not tbs girls OF to-day become their
own dreSsmakersY They would find an extra
ordinary stimulus and pleasure in the occupa-
tion. and there is nothing that would do more
20 take the nonsense out of them and put sense
IN LIS place. Paper patterns and the shortening
OF the skirts have made the task easy. and
once undertaSen it would not be given up, for
1t would be more Interesting than fancy
work. Probably the inducement to many
would be much greater If the custom Of giving
girls an allowance for "dress" money was
common here as it is in England. But un-
fortunately it is not, and the majority OF the
daughters of well-to-do fathers feel that the
effort would not be appreciated and would
Drlng them no compensation. Young women
whose parents occupy high position in Eng
land, frequently do all their own sewing in
order to make their allowance-which ranges
from 900 TO $3.50 per annum-do its work They
may have one dress Sc ison made BY
dressmaker, not more, and this viii probably
be superintended by dressmaker in the house,
who occupies her time in cutting and citing
while the young lady herself, with perhaps the
help OF family Seamstress, does the sewing
Ihere Is great advantage In thus becoming
acquainted with methods and personally CON
versant with ways and means, with the exigen-
cles and necessities OF work, its limitations as
well as its possibilities. A good servant would
Infinitely rather work for a mistress who was
thoroughly acquainted with the duties to be
performed. and therefore willing to make
allowances; and on the same nrincipie il Ia
easier in making dress to satisfy one who
knows than one whose ignorance makes her
at once exacClng and non-appreciative.
AT THE MERCY.
1t Is strange to what an extent American
women allow themselves to exist at the mercy
of dependents, through want Of actual knowi-
edge and practical experience of work Come
times they rebel against an innovation, or long
continued abuse, but the throwing up of the
work. and the dread of being left to their own
resources, brings them back quickly to the
proper state Of subsection to the dreaded cook
or the inflated modiSte.
The coat sleeve, such as women are at pres
ent wearing. only exists by the sublime uncon-
sciousness of the laws of philosophy and anato-
mical formation on the part of the wearers
There is no elbow to it or In it. The outside
seam is rounded it is true, but the inside seam
Is Is straight and every bend Of the arm paralyzes
it. Thirty years ago coat sleeves were cut SO
as to allow for gathering upon the under
side. which gave perfect ease to the arm and
allowed 1t to move and act without strain or
pain. Now this Is and for q long time has been
impossible. Women who are not engaged in
work that requires the steady use Of the arm
and hand may not find it so serious difficulty.
but those engaged in writing, working at tele-
graphy, painting or operating sewing ma
Ladies who do their own dresSYnakfng soon
learn to pay attention to these details of COM
fort which have nothing at all to do with
fashion, but 1t is impossible TO impress them
she is too busy to attend to individual details.
She follows copy, and only branches out where
you would rather not have her-in trimming
and in massing up "draperies.n n This sleeve
business has become one of the minor miseries
With the reduction in the width and general
outline of the dress, the sleeve has grown
closer and shorter until it holds the arm like
a vice and covers it like another skin. The
white inside cuff has disappeared Is no
room for it. The sleeve is three inches shorter
than the arm, but the long glove Is supposed to
come down to meet il. The tight sleeve would
be less Objectionable If it were occasional, but
It is the sleeve Of the every day working and
walking dresses; the occasional sleeve-thati is
the dreSSy 6leeve-iS varied and modified in
many different ways, and often is no sleeve as
all.
When street jacket is made by dressmaker
en- suite, with. say W0Olen dress, the misery
Is doubled The arm Is twice encased ia sleeves
which are so short there Is no 'pull' upon them
and SO straight that they stop all the vital cur
rents and send the blood rushing to the head
where it creates in q very short time a lovely
rullness is allowed for the elbow, but dressmak-
ers do not seem to get hold Of them. Let ladies
who are about having spring suits and Jackets
made look out for the straight paralyElng coat
sleeve.
THE REV TWEED.
The new spring tweed for suits are all wool
forty-Six inches wide. They como in olive
grey. brown, invisible green, and wine mix
lures. at from 81 to S1 25 per yard, the cloth
stripes and minute checks being only 81, and
very suitable f0rspring ulsterg as well as suits
Five yards make Scarborough ulster with
double collar or hood as preferred. and no
Is required, except q quarter of
yard of nIain siIlx or aafin nc lfYafS,o. o. a.