New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1881-08-09
AN INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION.
THE MCKAY soLE-sEwING MACHINES

| NNN'SAAAANN AND 1HE REVOLUTION II UA
, WROUGHT IN THE MANUFACTURES OF BOOTS An
sHoEs-IMMENsE FORTUNES DERIVED PROM !
, THRILLING ROYALTY ON EACH PAIR MADE
, | MANUFACTURERS NOW FREE TO USE THE MA
CHIMES WITHOUT TRIBUTE.
AN event OF some Importance in American indus
tlai annals occurred last week by the Termination
OF the patents on the Mckay shoe-sewing machinery
ana with them the royalties" that have yexed tbe
Souls OF modern Crispins. While the rights i'm ones.
ZION nave made millionares of their owners tho in
Ventions covered by them have undoubtedly added
hluch TO the wealth of the whole community. The
tokens OF this addition are found in the rand do
equipment OF huge manufacturing interest the
CROWN Oh valuable export trade and the cheapen-
ing oil product of such universal necessity s boots
and shoes. And when il is stated aritbmcticalIy
that New-Engand alone now sbins bevond bcr
pofuefs over 100000 cases of foot-gcar per an
uuiil' tnat the centres of this trade have about
ulpIed IN wealth and population since 1850. and
'u"' the consumer everywhere can clothe his Gun
uerstapdings" at about half the cost of twenty
yo"is ago, enough has been said to show that the
history OF shoe machinery is not without interest
FROM the earliest days down to a few wears aqo
| ehe process of shoe making was by the laboriops
| hand-stltching of patient craftsmen The awI and
| "'A-coVered thread-this latter an evolution from
nDre or thong-have been EMPLOYED IN
ohe WORK since the dawn of history The
l'ce Is graven on Theban monuments and en-
| A-'~N III 'hN dpHOTlSlllS OF many Tongues III
NOT untli 1909, when battling legions were tramp
| ing throughout Europe, that an Enplisbmon no
thought him how shoe-soles might be attached with
ii'o'S ana invented crude machine for the mr.
pose It's success was of brief duration but il seems
TO have furnished an idea to the RruneI
"ho' In Iolo patented certain devices for cutting
punching and fastening together with wire tho
various parts of shoe. This machinery was con
sidered prodigy In its time but il was maninulo+od
ohy ny the pensioners at Chelsea Hospital and ex-
ciusiveiy to make shoes for the British forces II
WIS discovered ere long, however that the wire was
ape 10 cut through and disable the soldiers feet in
marching and in the peace that succeeded Waterloo
the patents were dsused and almost forgotten
some pegging" machines of but limited usefulness
were the only further advance in this direction |
down TO the development Of the sewing-macbine in
the United States |
ADVENT OF THE SEWING-MACHINT
IL was IN 1916 that the wonderful invention of |
Eiihs howe was patented though some years of toll
ana anxiety followed capital stepped in 70 assist
III itS manufacture. It's capacity to sew leather
goodswas also but slowly developed and recognized
a lew OF the more enterprisng shoe manufacturers
then desired to employ it, though at this stage IL
could only he of use in the "bndingr of shoes. or
sewing together the parts OF the uppers AS was
"Su III those days, the operatives of the shoe trade
were enormously opposed TO its introduction Some
Thought 1t would prove but worthless toy while
many were afraid it would deprive them of work
ana Dread 1t was the old story of the stocking |
loom and spinning jenny'over again.
shrewd NewEngland manufacturer berennop
conceived q way to break down these objections |
lie began by thoroughly mastering the use of the !
machine himself, not even his own family knowing
There was such thing as a sewing-macbipe ON the |
premises. When all his plans were quite matured
he Stitched with his machine nice pair of uppersD
ana taxing them into his factory he said TO his fore
man: What do you think of these ~
Aiter very careful and critical examination the
foreman replied "Why, they are splendidlv done
L never saw better work in all my life.v
Inc upper was then passed around from ono omar
ative to another and all greeted it with the same
verdict. '1'
Well" said the manufacturer, the maker Of
'iiS SahPie wants Work what do you say TO our |
employing him :" -
You certainly can't do better ro,,lioa a., g.
man; " for a workman who can turn ont srob | 5
''ltchng as that would be credit to any factory
ohIortuhately," resumed the EMPLOYER d" the | I
poor fellow is both deaf and dumb"
what pltyp observed the foreman; and then
he added, cheerfully: AT any rate he WON'T fan
'ut much with his shopmatesw \
: But more than that; he neither eats nor drip,,,
Al this every man within hearing iumped nm 10 - h
y magic, aud the excitement was intense rs tbev II
ia exclaimed together: It's sewing-machinel q
It's n sewing-machine n
Inc employer had of course reckoned on this con- "a
'eNinOy' anu "uulcsscd ms Workmen somewhat :
ohoWs: Yes, you right This MINER ,vas v
utched by n sewing machine and every foctor, in .
nc lahd must adopt them sooner or ater-its on1v h.
question OF Tune, and must all come 70 il No,, "a
nave determined to them at once and 7 on, b,
eady to make this bargain with Won. am ou,te h'
are that instead of being poorer Won will ali in
ommon with myself, be the richer for its n,rol, To
on VIII therefore guarantee all of Won vorr q,
resent wages Tor the next twelve months and will
80 pay you all You earn in excess of them If Won
10 wise you VIII accept my offer; give Won fiji TO-
borrow TO consider it," The men were Sensible | CT
lough to abide by the proposed terms and The Cow W
- machlnes were procured and set to work, NJ
Inc trade soon generally adopted them. elaboro. as
ltchlng on uppers became fashionable rs IL ,os ="
ndered easy, and production was stimulated 70 a m
markabe degree The system of "toar, VII, }, p
rs also extended wherein the various stoccs of In
oemakmg were performed by different hands. in az
eau OF each workman completing the whole iob 10
ne subdivision and perfection of these ,,soccsso ia
led Tor other machines, which were ronidl,, VIZ
ought INTO service; though for years there vas |
III wanting the grand finishing device that wonld s
the uppers ana soes of the shoes together Prior 9
1893, 1t may here be explained nearly all Sawed 25l
ois ana shoes were made with welt: that s tho | y
ner sole had light thread of leather emf awe =
g seam being laid therein, after which II was | s.
cked TO the last, the edges of the upper drawn AZ
CT IL, narrow strip of leather called the wolf
"ed 10 Doth inner sole and upper and to this welt ope
outer sole was sewed, all of the work beino don =,
iii the outside. This to-day constitutes the NO.,
making hand-sewed boots and shoes and tbisY. IoSS
venerable process that invontoro -. job