Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-01-11
RAMBLES IN SUNNY ITALY
UNDER THE SHADOW OF MOUNT
VESUVIUS.
Launching of the IrOncIad tsItalIa,s
A Grand Naval Achievement
Memories of the Past-The Grand
school of medicIne-The Ashes of
81. Matthew-SaIernO's Greciaa
Temples.

school of medicIne-The Ashes of
81. Matthew-SaIernO's Grecfan
Temples.
SORRENTO, December 25-Editor Morn; ;ng
Netcs: Since my last letter in your columns.
whereia Milan, one of the grand capitals of
Northern Italy was my theme, have passed
far southwark. and from the witching region
or the Bay Of Naples, am moved to resume my
pen.
In comparatively recent issue of the NEWS
which have duly welcomed, it was matter
of interest to observe an item relative to the
launching of the largest ironclad in the world
the Italia = which swept proudly into active
existence from the shores of Caste.lamare
upon the bosom of the placid bay
At the mention of this recent triumphant
naval achievement, how custer associations,
born of memorable historical events. There.
across the sweeping curve of waters on the
fatal August day eighteen centuries ago, was
harbored cff Misenum that portion of the Ro-
mar fleet commanded by Pliny. the elder,
while time was preparing the dread wrath of
swart NeSuYiuS, pregnant with destruction for
PompeH, Herculaneum, and that other CITY
Stable, over whose ruins sprang later into ex-
lStence the CaStellamare of to-day. Not even
the famous ironclad, Italia could have shield.
ed the too adventurous commander of that
ancient fleet from the poisonous vapors that
envelOping Stabiae, compaSsed his destruction
such, at least. might have been tho appropri-
ate comment or Suisen NeSuvius, scowling in
eternal menace above the scene, equa Iy of her
ancient terrors as of this recent naval fete
Let us pass awhile from the presence of the
awful Mount-even now vomiting its lava
streams, in lurid sheets adown its
sides, and perilously near the iron
necklace, which man has lately bound,
for his convenience, about her asby
must yield the palm to Naples peerless bay
can yet take comfort that no volcanic tyrant
threatens, with relentless sceptre the smiling
cities OF It's winding coast Here, in SalerRo
we can stroll along the spacious Corso Carl
baldi that makes so handsome a frontage for
the city of the gulf, and inhaling the invigoTat-
ing breezes from the sea, can yield a prompt
at enion to the account of the CITY 4 high re-
pute, Of yore. in the Department OF Medicine
That attention will however, inevitably
wander and falter, 50 soon as we turn from
the one handsome street by the shore
into any Of the innumerable narro1
filthy streets that branch off laterrllv
from it. But then it is to be remembered
we reflect, the Grand School OF Medicine
demands as the essence of its being and pro-
greSS, the existence of that subject which
grim Disease has vauntingly invested. Yes
the surroundings would be far too healthy for
Medicine to flourish into fame, if ali the streets
were CorSos Garibaldi.
Into one or the narrowest and least inviting
of these alleys it is necessary to plunge to and
our nearest way to the Cathedral Ascending
its steps, attended by goOdly array of beg
gars, we pass first into preliminary square
court, which Is lavishly adorned with saTco-
phagl, whose basreliets suggest Bacchanalian
revels and such like scenes from mythology.
affording, altogether, an inconsistent picture
TO precede ones entrance into Christian tenn
pie, like the preface to some books, which is
startltngly divorced from the subject matter
Passing from this AtriuIn. as it is called
into the Cathedral proper land consigning
the beggars behind us to Bacchus), the eye is
greeted with the usual profusion of Mosaic
work on pulpit and altar, with the usual splen-
dor of adornment in pillar, pavement and C, IL
ing, that IS too common to Italian churches
generally to demand special comment, and
then we descend into the crypt Expecting TO
be ushered into q damp subterranean recepta-
Gle chamber for the dead amid the usual forest
OF dim Norman arches, it was matter of very
agreeable surprise to find instead a spacious
and handsome church. whose central altar
gains special sanctity from containing the
ashes of st. Matthew. There burn ever the
holy lights, glowing witnesses to the deathless
The richness of decoration in this chapel inst
stops short Of excess, and here at least.
the somewhat unwieldly splendors Of the
church above are contracted and corrected
and the chapel of st. Matthew will have its
pleasant memories when the church shall have
for US very shadowy recollections. In quitting
IL, curious FEELING OF satisfaction came ever
me IN connection with the reputed resting
place there of the saint 1t would seem at
least, that has remains ara not scattered over
the universe nor endlesslY reduplicated for
the edi1cation of the faithful. and think tn It
If tomorrow | were shown a bona or a w
tooth of st Matthew, l should indiglsntl ex-
claim: Why, we buried him not long ago in
Salerno"
So, through the Atr.um, again past the Bac-
chantes and the beggars. through the dirty
streets, and once more into the gay Corso We
do not fail to note here the marble statue
erected in honor of an earlier warrior
spirit, called the precursor of Garibaldi and for
whom conspicuous for his courageous effort,
was destined to disaster and the crown Of a
gallant death. His countrymen have been
mindful in giving to their broad and smiling
Corso the name Of their great living chieftain
to erect in its midst fitting tribute to one who
strove and died for his country's liberties.
While 1t IS true there has been no volcanic
spirit herea5outs. to work with restless and
destructive energies through the ages, and that
therefore we may not look for buried cities to
yield their daily store Of hidden treasures vet
the traveller at Salerno tarries not long without
directing his course towards those marvelous
precincts where stand the Grecian temples
that have scorned the need of burial to pre-
serve them, and have spurned thef futile clamor
OF time, decay and death. No detailed
required. Familiar subjects for the
painters brush, and produced from every point
of view by the photographers art, the majesty
and grace OF their matchless proportions will
recur With a vivid promptneSs to most of my
readers. Erected by the sons of Greece, at a
time when Grecian art was approaching its
zenith, no wonder the massive pillars of the
Neptune temple and the graceful triumphs of
the companion structures hardly yield first
place to the glorieS of Athens itself
Their builders were from Sybaris and their
name has passed into synonym for all that is
diss lutte and corrupt. Her surrender to an en-
ervating pursuit of pleasure first made ali
Greece Sybaris, then bowed her to the Romen
yoke; nor was there, as we learn from the bril-
liant pages of Gibbon, more potent element
conducting to the decay and decline of Rome
the victor. than the degenerating arts ACQUIRED
with Greece, the ctim.
But one work these settlers from SybariS did
accomplish with the sineWs of the brain and
hand, from which must needs ha e been ex-
peled the slightest touch of enerVation; and so
while the ruins of the Roman power lie grovel-
ing here amid the dust of their very founda-
lions, ana retain little to instruct even as TO
their former uses; while there is absolutely no
vestige OF the Christian life and worship which
found so fourishing an asylum in Paestum;
whlie vandalism devastated and deSpoiled, and
the elements combined their powers and peSti-
lence applied its honors to depopulate and
leave deSolate; there has stood from the ear
liest date of Paestum's fife, six centuries be-
fore Christ, this grand achievement, the SUI
preme effort of its founders.
Doubtless, the strength of devotion, accep-
table TO Divinity, stimulated the powers of
each Inspired builder, and crowned the com
DfGODGCT
Immortality. Let the massive strength OF
Pae stunts grand old city wall pass on to slow
assimilation with decay; it is yet the confident
assurance OF an admiripg world that these ma
Jestic temples, conspicuous ameng her won
ders, will know neither death nor diminution
In this season, when Sorrento, with her quiet
life, awakes to an unwonted activity amid her
peaceful groves of orange and of olive; when
Capri glowS with purer pleasures than berius
ever knew amid all the brilliaBcy of his dozen
palaces: when Naples rings with hearty mer
rlmeDt that would fam encompass all, even the
humblest of her light-hearted careless folk;
when, in short, the glads0me sentiment Of
ChrlstmaStlde seems so d-pervading-
thought of Paestum comes 70 mind with
starthnsly curious effect Doubtless, in
the then fenigDant temples festivals far
eclipsing in splendor those of her
Jubilant sister cities to-day. But when the
very soil refuses TO yield up any longer the
roses that once challenged the admiration of
the world: when the very breeZeS that once
sported with the perfumes of a thousand
chaplets, twining in loving profusion about
those Stalwart pillars, are now charged
with a noxious breath, redolent of pes
tilence;-it is quite possible TO realize
as rejoicing, or as exhibiting anything beyond
that which alone she claims the proud
attribute OF maJeStic silence.
/ shall reserve as the subject of future let
ter the wondrous beauties OF the drive from
Salernc to Amalh, ard the attractions and
incidents of our stay in Amalh.
With most cordial Christmas wishes and
many happy New Year greetings to my read
ers and all the dear homeland, remain yours,
ScYTHIAS.
Railroad Communication Resumed.
DAKvILLE. Va, January 10.-In conse-
quence OF the wrecking of a freight train