The Morris County chronicle. [volume] (Morristown, N.J.) 1877-1915, 1881-06-10
GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD.
Budding Young Seedlings.

| should be budded first, because of the
rapidity with which budding can be ac-
comphshed, an experienced budder
often setting one hundred in an hour ;
| second, the more convenient season at
which it is done third, the fact that
the operation can be performed without
injuring the stock in case of failure,
| which is always more or less liable in
stocks headed down for grating
fourth, the opportunity which it affords,
when performed in good season, of re-
| peating the trial on the same stock. To
these several advantages raay be added
budding is preferred for the stone
| fruits that require extra skill IN graft
/ ing, but which are budded with ease.
Budding is done during the growing
| seasons. Time budding, especially on
/ the peach and nectarine, is praeticed in
! the South, but is not advised in the
more Northern States. The ordinary
budding season extends at the North
from about the middleof July until the
middle of September, and the earliness
or lateness at which species is budded
| depends, other things being equal, on
th6condition Of its growth. The time
| forbudding therefore depends also upon
| the weather. In warm, dry season
| the young wood natures earlier and
stocks cease to grow sooner and are in
consequence ready for budding earlier
than in a cool, moist season that pro-
longs the growth of the stocks and re
tards the maturity of the buds. Stocks
making feeble growth require to be bud
ded earlier than those that grow freely.
To sum up briefly, bud early all trees
that accomplish their growth early in
the season and defer the operation on
such as continue to grow until the
autumn. The tree must grow long
enough after the bud is set to unite the
bud with the tree, but not long enough
to admit of the formation of new layers
Of wood over the bud and destoy it or
force it into premature growth late in
the season. In all sections of the coun-
try and in all cases for successful re-
suits in budding, the buds to be insert
ed must be perfectly developed in the
axis of the leaves on the young shoots
and the bark must raise freely from the
stocks to receive them.
Budding is usually performed on
trees from one to five years old with a
smooth, soft bark. Strong yearly seed
ings Of the apple, pear, cherry and
plum, also well-rooted layers Of the
ounce, planted in good soil during
the spring, are often in a proper condi-
tion forlbudding in July, August or
September following. Seeding trees
exhibit q great difference as regards
thrifty growth, therefore it is always
wise to select for propagation such only
as show indications of health. Many
orchardists reject all apple stocks that
ar not large enough to bud the second
year.
Any lateral shoots from the stock
likely to obstruct the insertion of the
bud can be removed at time of budding.
AS rule, low budding makes the best
trees, aud dwarf stocks ought always to
be budded as close to the surface of the
ground as possible. With rapid, late
growing and tender varieties, in sec.
tions of country where there is danger
of their being wlnter-killed if budded
too near the ground, it is advised to
bud high whom hardy stock can be OBJ
tanned.
The process of budding cannot be
intelligibly described without cuts,
therefore any man or woman who pro-
poses to cultivate trees, shrubs or plants
ought to learn the art either by watch
ing an expert-the better plan-or by a
careful study of an illustrated descrip-
ton of the operation to be found in
such valuable works as Barry's Fruit
Garden"
Shield or T-budding is an improved
mode. For this the incision made in
the bark of the stock is in the form of
the letter T. The bark is separated
from the wood with the ivory end of a
budding knife and the bud pressed into
place. The upper end Of the bark
attached to the bud is cut square, to fit
to the horizontal cut on the stock, and
bass string, cotton wicking or other
suitable material is then wound around
tightly, beginning at the bottom and
covering every part of the incision,
leaving the bud itself and the leafstalk
uncovered. The string is fastened above
the horizontal cut and the work is COM
pleted The success of budding de-
pends largely on smooth cuts, an exact
fit of the bud to the incision made for
it, and secure tying that will exclude
air and rain. One great difficulty ex-
perienced by beginners is the proper
removal of the bud, but little practice
will obyiate this. By the way, care
should be observed to keep the buds
moist and protected from the sun and
air until set. When considerable
quantity is cut at one time they may be
preserved by wrapping in damp cloths
or placing in moist sawdust.
| In about ten days OF fortnight after
budding its success or failure will be
apparent. If it has succeeded and the
stock is swollen, loosen or remove the
bandage. IF it has failed and the bark
continues to separate readily from the
wood, a second trial can be made. In
some cases, notably with cherry stocks,
it is necessary to loosen the b ndage
and retie it, as rapid growth causes the
string to cut the bark before the bud is
fit to be united. This, however, does
not usually occur. As rule the string
Is removed IN from two weeks to 6
month after budding. All bandage:
should be removed finally and not re
main on during the winter.
Stocks budded one season are headed
down to within few inches of the bud
the next season, about the time The
leaves begin to appear, and all bud.
starting into growth on the stock are
rubbed off Later on, the portion O
the stock left above the bud at thu
heading down in the spring should bt
removed with close and smooth slop
ing cut at the highest point of unio1
between the bud and stock k-Neso Yo,i
/ World.
Recipes.
Corn MEAL PUFFETs. -Four cups corn
meal, one cup wheat -four, one egg
butter size of a walnut, one-half tea
spoon salt, three teaspoons baking pow
der; mix with milk to make thin
batter, bake in gem-pans or bread pan
in a quick oven. A tablespoon Of suga
or molasses may be added.
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