Savannah morning news. [volume] (Savannah) 1868-1887, 1881-11-01
ESTABLISHED 1850.
FEATHER Hans AND BoNNrrs.


The early fall was distinguished by sudden
irruption or small toques and turban hats and
diminutive bonnets made entirely Of pheas-
ants feathers, in brilliant metallic green's and
some shaded browns These feather hats are
pretty in the hand, but are not at all becom-
ing on the head. They are not susceptible of
trimming, and look fiat and unplea antly
bright and metallic. The second thought OF
most ladies, therefore, inclines them to
the distinguished looking beaver and felt bon
nets with furred borders, which can be worn as
poke bonnetS or large hats, and which are
fashionably trimmed with at least five ostrich
plumes
Feathers as trimming are a rage of the sea-
son to the almost utter exclusion or flowers,
and the number massed upon one large hat is
almost incredible. Five is the minimum; the
maximum depends upon the ingenuity OF the
milliner in disposing OF them. The exaggera-
tons INDUCED in are not confined to the num-
OF the novelties In head gear are astounding,
and would seemingly suit lunatics better than
sensible women.
EVENING DRESSES
The preparations for the gay season are on a
magnificent scale in some of the new fine
houses, and on the part of the fashionable
modistes. The electric light is found to add
greatly to the brilliant effect OF ball costumes,
when placed high, and the finest ball rooms
will be certain to be Illuminated in this way in
addition to myriads of wax candles In gilt,
brass or silvered candelabra, for it is not to be
supposed that every one, even Of our wealth.
est citizens can afford to initiate Mr.. VIM H.
Vanderbilt in having solid silver chandelier
for grand salon.
There is immense diversity In the handsome
toilettes now in the hands Of modistes-more
than has ever been seen among dresses pre-
pared strictly for dresses OF ceremony and
the reason is doubtless the greater freedom
and latitude in the exercise Of Individual taste
and the acquisition Of many beautiful things
in the way OF materials and garniture. 1t can
not be said this season that any one style or
material predominates, excepting that the
foundation for all rich toilettes seem to be
laid in silk or satin, even when veiled with lace
or tule to give them light and diaponous
effect In fact, diaponous materials are not
much used-not at all, except for young ladies
or debutantes, and in the form OF lace. Tho
preference is for satin, satin rhadames, satin
brocade, satin enriched with embroidery;
plush, plain and watered; and for married
ladies some combination of moire antique
with satin and velvet.
A fashions BILE combination consists of moire
antique train, an embroidered satin front. and
bodice also enriched with embroidery; sides
pannelled with falls Of wide lace and loops Of
satin ribbon.
A dress worthy OF Marie Antoinette consists
of coat of canary colored satin embroidered
with silver, turned back in broad revers, and
raced with dainty canary colored brocade out
lined with silver thread. Skirt of canary col
ored satin draped with white Spanish point
and ornamented with thlstles in their natural
color, with twisted silver stems. A robe dress
of red currant colored satin, and fashioned
Win buttons Wnlcn look ike engraved ruOleS.
The sides show border extending the entire
length, and round the neck Of beaded en-
broidery in different shades of ruby upon a
black silk net foundation, which is, how
ever, entirely covered. An artistic
dress made to order is long gown of mouse
colored velvet, with moyen-age back to the
waist and broad satin belted front. The skirt
Is perfectly plain; the sleeves a small leg-of-
mutton, full at the top but fitted to the lower
arm. With this dress Is worn deep collar and
cuffs of old lace an antique necklace OF coins
which forms a collar. An ''early English
dress of old gold satin exhibited on the occa-
sion Of the opening Of the Cooperative Dress
Association, has been copied several times to
order in bronze satin, in olive satin rhadames
and in almond tinted satin. In this also the
skirt is cut plain but full at the back and gored
at the sides and in front The boddice is short
and belted all around; the sleeves long and
puffed at the top.
The conventional evening dress for young
ladies consists of a short, trimmed skirt, the
back draped over a killed fiounce, and the
front shirred or pleated above a deep box
pleated hounce which ascends to the knee
The bodice is long V shaped basque with
panniered sides forming an overskirt, and the
sleeves are shirred or plated to the elbow.
Surah in light tints makes up pretty in this
way, trimmed with white lace, and with alter
nate ruff1es Of silk and lace across the lower
front instead Of box pleated fionnce.