Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1881-04-27
READING FOE LADIES.
Fashions for the Spring and
Summer.
Philadelphia Public Lcdser,l

Philadelphia Public Ledger.l
NEW WALKING SUITS.
A steel gray batiste foule is an eff
fective costume. The basque is made
up double to give the depth of color
required, arG so needs no lining but a
simple habit shirt under it, to cover
the corset. The skirt is made on a
silesia lining; an old summer silk, if
desired, can be dyed for the tint and
used for GOODNESS. This is bordered
all round by two barrow ffills of the
batiste. The trout Of the overskirt is
a perfectly plain petticoat, gored to
fit smoothly TO the figure. Ii is slashed
perpendicularly in three slashes al
moss to the waist, aud the sides are
laced together with scarlet galloou, the
ends hanging in a bunch of loops, for
finish. Eyelet holes are worked in
the material, through which the
lacings pass. Tue back is in three
deep Giltings of the material. The
buttons ofenamel initiate gray pearl,
with a scarlet flush. A gray chip
bonnet completes this costume. 1t is
trimmed with scarlet satin ribbon and
feathers, and is Of the fiat shape on top
that recalls the mice" hats, while the
sideI are coal scuttle shape.
A stylish walking suit is Of the
black damasse silk, now reduced to a
dollar and a BALI a yard. 1t is COM
bined with plain black surah. The
basque is of the damasse, made very
high shouldered, aud with sleeves
reaching half way below the elbow,
perfectly untrimmed, so that the full
effect ofthe long wrinkled glove may
show. Around toe throat Of the basque
a shirred scarf of plain surah makes a
V shape, which enables the wearer 10
convert the dress for evening wear
by a throat finish of fine dotted white
tulle, turning in" in the material, or
leaving it, as is desired, to display the
throat. The skirt is TWO deep kilt
iounces of the black surah, while be-
meath them is a narrower one Ct the
damasse. The back is an arrangement
of boufant loops of the damasse. A
bunch OF bright yellow dafodils, worn
as a breast knot, is the only relief
needed for this suit, and the bonnet
may be black aud gold, or all black
with s.eel, or combine the iris tint of
twopurples, in Ynich case the flowers
worn must be %viole5s or pansies.
THE IRIS CoLoRs
are shOWn in silk and some wooden
dresses. They are not the rainbow,
but the deep purple and pale lilac of
ofthe garden flag" and are extreme
ly good in combination. Either color
is used to face the full headed rufles
of the other, or to drape across the
plain petticoat as 9 sash overskirt,
making also the collar and cuffs ana
the buttons carry out the same con-
trast. Some of the cheap summer
silks that come in every shade Of fine
check can be effectively combined in
these suits. A pretty way is to MAKE
the front ~petticoat in alternate fills
Of the light and dark silks. When a
richer material is used, such as the
spotted surahs, or dawasse or even
the "watered" silks that are coming
in, the palmer the front of the petit
coat the better.
Ombre silks IN two shades of stone,
or amber and brown, are used 10 make
up tue long marquise jackets, and
worn over a skirt OF plain silk. A good
variety of satin finished striped goods
is made on a linen back, and costs
Sl.25 a yard. 1t will wear as long as
the fashion lasts, which is to be con-
sidered in getting a material that is
not all silk. These jackets have very
long tails in the back, reaching to the
deep puff, which forms the onIy trim
ming required for the plain skirt at
the foot.
A dr'ss Of heliolrope foule, which
almost be called a wooden mus
lin, is made up into the new style of
shooting jacket, thet has only one box
pleat down the middle of the back;
a double box pleat, that is, with one
narrow fold under the broad one. The
is laid in narrow, inch-wide
plaitiugs, like a shirt bosom. The
lolg overskiIt is draped down shawl
fashion, front aod back being cut open
at the Lett side, which allows the Two
cuds 20 be drawn back like the point
shawl. Iii IS just enough wrinkled
at the seams to give this effect. 1t is
merely finished with machine stitches
10 rows, as is the u1derskirt also. The
hat is yellow s raw, saucer shape, but
2 very narrow brim, turned up, and
the crown is entirely hidden with a
pink ostrich feather which
curls about it.
A pretty street dress Of green and
check is braided with black
military traid across the front Of the
basque. Narrow silver braid is used
in trimming street dresses. Astylish
colored tricot cloth has the cor
sa- Q buttoniug at the left side, like a
double breasted co t. A seam goes
down tbe font of the basque, which
is fastened down with large cut pearl
buttons. Two pieces divide gold and
black woven braid are sewed across
the double.brcsst Bretonne fashion
tbe cuffs, TIL Of the basque and over
dress are likewise bordered by the
braid. Narrow steel braid is used on
Of ladies' cloth, and is especi.
ally good on lavender and all the paler
shades.
TO MAKE UP A WASH DRESS
OF bordered heather cloyh or zephyr
gin ham there is no preSiier way than
the polonaise, with turned back fronts.
The bordering is put on so as TO cover
the fold that is made by turning the
fronlq ovor tho b;ns ond tbva $780, a.