The Portland daily press., 1881-09-22
LIE PRESS.
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Increased length is the rule for all outside
garments imported for the approaching season;
otherwise there is very little change in shapes,
and il the materials are suitable, the cloaks of
last winter can be worn again without being
altered. The Directoire styles are repeated
for coats, while jackets are in the plain French
shapes rather than in the masculine and laun-
ty English styles so long in vogue. Plush Is
the favorite material of the season, and will DO
used not merely for trimmings and for jackets,
but for long cloaks as we'll
Cloth paletots are more than two-thlrds OF
the length Of the dress skirt, and follow the
outlines of the figure without being closely
fitted They are double-breasted, and have
two side forms. one of which comes very far
toward the front. Heavy warm cloths with
diagonal twill. or else smooth surface ana
tufted wrong side. are used Tor these paletots,
and the trimmings are almost invariably OF
plush. The plush collar is deep enough to be
called CAPE and is cutoff straight across the
back, giving a square effect that is now con-
sidered stylish. A border measuring from six
to ten inches in width is made of the plush,
and put across the end of the spaletot.
Cuffs of plush are not deep enough to make
the sleeve clumsy and have the effect of being
turned back from the inside. Large side pock-
ats are seen ON some garments but the prefer
ence is for pockets set underneath the cloak,
and showing merely slit as an opening for
the hand: this slit is cut bias and is bound with
plush Two rows of shell, or metal, orwooden
buttons. are down the front. These paletots
are shown in drab and seal brown cloths, also
in dark green, wine-color. and navy blue; a
great many bronze and olive tints are found
among these jackets, and these are considered
stylish for wearing with black dresses, and
will also look well with most of the dark col
ors now used for costumes.
Shorter jackets fitted closely to the figure.
and either single or double breasted, are made
of the English homespun and Scotch cloths
that resemble those worn by gentlemen.
These jackets are very iaunty. and are popular
with young ladies. They may be cut away be-
low the waist line. or else buttoned their entire
length. A coat collar of plush is the only
trimming, as the sleeves are simply bound,
and the pockets the merest slit on the hips
and ON the left breast The single side form
of the back is broad and short, beginning in
the armholes The buttons are of colored met
al or of vegetable ivory, and are chosen to
match the cloth in color, but are not conspicu-
onsy large. The hunting jacket shapes are
also retained for Cheviot garments, but with
fewer peais than those OF last season. Two
box pleais in front and one in the back are
sufficient, and these are not cut in the cloth
usually, but are sewed on close-fitted jackets
The cuffs, collar and belt are sometimes OF
plush, hut are in better style when made of
the cloth.
Plush jackets are dressy garments for young
ladies' and are liked in the seal brown shade
that can scarcely be distinguished from the
seal fur which they copy so closely. These are
made up in the shapes Just described, and are
entirely without trimming. When lighter
shades of tan. ecru, or drab plush are used for
the Jacket, dark seal brown plush forms the
collar, caffs aud poe ket welts.
Large mantles are among the most comfort
able and becoming of the new wraps. They
are fit by three seams behind, and have
a sleeve-like side piece; the back extends low
over the tournure, and the fronts hang straight
to the knees These are quite as cliDging in
appearance as those of last year, yet they are
so fashioned that they do not pinion the arms
to the sides: indeed, the wearer MAJ adjust
her bonnet, or cross her hands above her head
If necessary, without pushing the wrap up
above the shoulders in an uncomfortable way.
The novelty for these wraps Is to make them
entirely of plush, either black or seal brown,
and TO line them with gay striped or ombre
DlQSD, OF Else Wlt1 Qulll6u SAUL. - Rf6db UOW
of plush or of satin placed on the tournure to
give the stylishly bonffant effect is TO be found
on the newest NANTES. The trimming about
the Leck is very full, consisting of pleated vel
vet, SHRED collar, deep plain collar of
feathers or of plush or else some ornamental
arrangement of passementerie and lace. jet
and coiored beads in amber and bronze shades
are used for trimmings, but there are grea er
number of passemenuerie ornaments without
beads.
- 81 oJaJ
satin, satin SERGE and striped satin, are made
with bishops sleeves, and may be shirred
about the neck for slender ladies' though the
plain shoulders are seen when the fabric has
large figures. The striped satin serge with
plush stripes two inches wide is one of the
most elegant materials for wraps. Plain
satin serge is used for shirred mantles. This is
a new fabric with twils like those of heavy
diagonal cloths, and with the lusIre of satin.
1t has no warmth of its own, and therefore re-
quires quilted satin Innings, and glimpses of
these gay colored Innings seen as facings of
the frills about the neck, and on the bishops
sleeves.
For morning wear and for travelling mantles
during the autumn are straight wraps in hree-
quarter lengths, made of Scotch cloths in
blocks, and in dark invisible plaids These
have collar as deep as a cape, and there are
large sleeves, and sometimes pleating is low
on the tournure to give greater fulness.
Long cloaks conceal the entire costume be-
straight Japanese shape, like great gown,
others have bishops sleeves either shirred or
pleated in, and some fullness is massed at the
back under great tournure bow. Brocaded
plush, satin or velvet, with large figures or
stripes, is used for these rich garments, or else
they e. tirely of plain satin or plush. When
made of plain satins, they are trimmed with
collar and border of plush, feathers or fur, or
with very elaborate passementerie and lace
When plush is the trimming, the cloak is sin
o IL hrpaefqd and a hrnad nlush hand aYtAndg
down each side, widening out into the border
for the lower edge. The furrowed plush in
lines across is very rich for trimming. When
two materials are combined in these clOaks,
moire silk sometimes seen with satin serge.
The bishops sleeves, the great bow of the tour
nure, aud the pleatings about the neck are
made of the French more silk Block patterns |
of satin brocade are stylish for cloaks. The
long cloaks Of plush are plain as if made of |
seal fur. Deep round collars of plush have |
long scarf-like revers attached to the front on |
PLAIN satin serge cloaks. Cords of jet are placed
in parallel rows Oh the shoulders of black sat |
in cloaks Chenille trimmings in ruches of |
loops and in Hat oval pieces are much used,
and there are more fringes of chenille than of |
all other materials; these are in the soft,
smooth chenille strands that are known as |
seal-skin fringe; sometimes each strand is fin |
ished with an acorn-sbaped pendant.
Plush Innings are more beautiful than ever |
on account of their o, bre effects and stripes of
colors The red ombre pushes |
shading from rose to cardinal, and those of |
green from pistache TO bronze, are seen in the |
handsomest wraps. For palmer garments |
there are black and gold stripes in the plush, |
or red with blue, green with red, or ecru with |
brown. The pile of the plush is heavy enough |
TO give sufficient warmth, and there is no in |
terlining needed. Ladies who dress very warm |
ly have objected TO furlned cloaks as being too |
heavy and warm above Winter costumes, and |
by these the plush Innings are preferred as a |
hapnv medium