The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1880-06-16
Letter from Rev. DR.. Hoge.
DAMASCUS, MAY 9Th, 1885,

L
have travelled. The lady land the life) of
= our little party was so wearied by the
long ride on horseback from Sidon to
Beirut that she was not willing to en-
counter the fatigue of the trip to Baalbek
and Damascus, but preferred to rest at
Beirut, where there is so much to see and
to enjoy, and her husband remaining with
her, made arrangements for performing
the journey alone. Not alone either, for
the Rev. DR.. Post, of Beirut, to whose
kindness am indebted in many ways,
selected a guide to accompany me-a ma
tive Syrian, Farah Mahloof, by name,
whose native tongue is the Arabic, and
who also speaks English very well. With
out his aid, as interpreter, could not
have engaged horses on the road, or set
tied bills, or found my way from place to
place. During all the trip 1 found Nah
loot attentive, efficient, and honest. In
this land where all the men 90 armed, he
carries revolver in his belt, and a long
knife stuck in a sheath on the inside Of
has boot. Thus attended l left Beirut by
Diligence at Al o'clock in the morning,
having secured a seat in the 6anqeIette
will be sorry when the Diligence be-
comes obsolete, as 1 suppose it will one
day. 1t Is numbering, awkward look
ing conveyance, about twice as long as an
ordinary stage COACH divided by a parti-
tlon into two compartments In front is
the COUPE holding three persons, with
glass windows in front and at the sides
which can be lowered or raised at pleas
ure. Behind the coupe is another and
much larger compartment, holding |
lynOW hut Ia -,
over the coupe and above the drivers
seat is what is called the bamquette, COW
cred with calash, leathern top, which in
fine weather is by far the most desirable
place in the Diligence, as its elevation en-
ables the traveller to see the country on
all sides to the best advantage. The Dill
igence is drawn by six horses-three
abreast, and as the road from Beirut to
Damascus was made by French com
pany, who own the line and have a
monopoly Of the conveyances on it, the
horses usually go at a gallop along the
smooth macademized way, without OBJ
struction or danger of collision.
Baalbek.
AT IL A. NJ we arrived at .Shtora,
where I left the Diligence, and where
Mahloof hired horses for us on which to
make the journey to Baalbek 1t is a
ride ordinarily performed in about seven
hours-and most interesting one it is.
The road is an Indifferent one, but good
enough for horseback riding, and runs.
nearly all the way from ,Sht0ra to Baol-
bek along a beautiful plain with the great
range Of the Lebanon mountains on the
left and the Anti-Lebanon on the right.
When there are no clouds drifting across
the sky the whole country is utterly
shadowless, owing to the absence of trees,
and lies under the bright glare of the
sun, until towards evening when the
mountains begin to cast their shadows on
one another and over the vast plain.
Then the effect of commingled light and
shade is very fine and then the beautiful
colors which give such charm to a Syrian
landscape come into play AS we APP
preached Baalbek at the close of the day,
all this was displayed in its perfection,
and added greatly to the enjoyment of
the ride. No picture is more distinct in
my memory. The Lebanon mountains
on the north were covered with snow,
the sides were brown and red, and the
plain at the base was of vivid green.
On the south, the purple Anti-Lebanon
range was slightly yelled in mist and
directly in front rose the tall columns
which still surmount the ruined temples
of Baalbek amidst fringe Of slim poplar
trees, stretching entirely across the plain,
from mountain to mountain.
1 found good quarters in the hotel
Palmyra, which was once the residence
Of wealthy gentleman Of Baalbek, be-
fore it was converted into public house.
1t is a good specimen of an oriental build
ing-entered by low, narrow doorway
opening into large, paved court through
the middle of which runs a rushing stream
Of clear water, with an oval basin in the
centre where the water is whirled about
IN a swift eddy, making a welcome sound.
The rooms Of the house are ranged around
the sides of the open court and stone
stairway leads to the upper chambers in
front of which is "a terrace paved with white
marble, divided by narrow red strips,
marking it off into squares and lozenges.
My chamber had six windows on the
lower tier and three on the upper, with a
curiously carved wooden cornice running
around the ceiling. The divan across
the room and the chairs were covered
with yellow silk, and all the furniture