Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1880-10-06
A Picture Of Athenian Life.

Athens has no society at this time oil
year. and very little at any other. In an
clent days the people were not given to
social festivity. Living in the open air.
their amusements were public This ac-
counts for the singular fact that scarcely
any remains of private dwellings have
been unearthed. Their houses were un,
important, but on the other hand, their
outdoor pleasures had no end One half
of the system still rules; the other, unfor-
tunately, has been suffered to lapse. What
scanty social entertainments there may be
are not open TO foreigners, and in this
summer time they cease altogether. There
Is a class of strangers, constantly growing
in Importance, who try to bring about a
livelier Stale of things. These are the
FanariOts, G eeks of Constantinople, Smy-
rna and Other places, rich people mostly,
accustomed to amuse themselves and to
provide amusement for others. The ma.
tive Athenian regards them with contempt
and dislike, which he does not try to hide
lie says they are corrupting the simple
virtues of his race. The foreigner car
only hope they will be quick about it. The
infection would be very wholesome, and
the simple virtue Of sitting all night in a
coffee shop, while the ladies of the family
yawn over sweetmeats and stale gossip,
is one that the civilized world does not
appreciate. The Fanariots it was who,
sickening at the eternal dulness of Athens,
relnvented Phalerum, the watering place
OF the ancients. In spite of this classic re-
commentator, We can see that conserva-
i've Hellenes are not half pleased with the
innovation. They dare not say much, for
the ladies, overjoyed to get little liberty
would not endure one hint of disapproba-
tlon; and fancy that when Greek ladies
have set their minds on anything they dis
play all the military virtues in acquiring
or keeping it-such as valor, tirmness,
ingenuity and clear word of command
1t was almost painful to think how color.
less and dreary was girls life here before
the despised Fanariots gave her Phalerum.
Residents tell me that she had no amuse-
ment or distraction to look forward to
from one sultry week to another-none at
least in which the other sex had part.
Even now she makes herself happy with
limited sort of enjoyment. AT Phalerum
the ladies. after bathing, walk up and
down by themselves in groups, or with
their father, husband or brother. The
young men do likewise, or sit at the cafe
tables watching the very small procession.
Seldom. apparently, does an exchange take
place between the parties warmer than a
bow. Even on the railroad each little So
ciety keeps by itself. But the Greek
women are very pretty, and especially
lively. It one gets into any of the double
carriages crowded with young people and
their parents, there is all the fun and noise,
without the shyness of an English girls
school The ways of life are in one sense
so easy that a stranger may venture to
take part in the conversation without Of
fence; but he is no further advanced. At
the end of the ten minutes journey his
acquaintance comes to Il stop. Until the
hour arrives next day to repeat the excur-
sion the ladies stop ut home, impatiently
waiting, and when it is over they 90 to
bed. There is French open air theatre
at Phalerum. At the ruined columns of
Jupiter there are cafes chantanls of the
poorest class. The band plays twice or
thrice week before the palace, and that
is all the life there is at Athens in this
summer weather. .-Letter TO the london
Standard.