The Somerset press. [volume] (Somerset, Ohio) 1873-1977, 1880-04-01
ADVENTURE IN THE ANDES

tdttDf VI uktHt lOi ~ III dOtuk buotnCSo
in New York and Valparaiso; and 10
April Of that year it became necessary
for me - make journey from the lat
ter city TO Mendoza, which is the CAPT
tai of one OF the States Of the Argen-
tine Republic.
Upon this journey had for travel
ing companion a young ensign, named
Seaver, from the United States ship L.,
then in harbor of Valparaiso, and two |
poems (grooms); and we Travelled int
company with Government courier |
who bad the mali ia charge. 7
Our route lay across the Cordillera |
(Sonthern Andes), and was made by |
way OF the Usaplata Pass; and it was
during our trip over the mountains that
was an eyewitness OF the following
Perilous incident.
& Both Seaver and myself were young
men TO whom the trip was q novel ex-
pefience.
Leaving Santiago on the 1lth of the
month, We Immediately entered among
the foot hills, our route taking us grad
ually yet constantly upward, and In
four days reached the summitridge of
the q paso," thirteen thousand feet
above the sea-level at the Port.
Our nights were passed at the
casuches,n or shelters OF brick or stone,
built by the Chilian Government for the
protection Of travellers.
From the Western side the ascent
presents no great difficulty; though
often devious and steep, the path is
quite safe. Nothing can exceed the
grandeur Of the mountain scenery from
the dividing ridge of the Usralata
range. ~ rtslArf
The air, from its rarity at this great
height, is wondrously clear. The gla-
ciers, across the deep, dark gorge on the
left, glitter like roseate crystal; while
on the right towers the vast snow-white
cone of Tupungati. Though already
thirteen thousand feet above the plains,
this enormous peak rises fully eleven
thousand feet higher, dazzling the eye
with its pure bright robe of everlasting
snow.
Summer and winter it stands, alike,
white and cold. Never had the brilliant
beauty and grandeur of the Andes i'm
pressed me so deeply, unless perhaps
when first the long white line of sun
tipped peaks opened to my Northern
eyes On entering the harbor of Valpa-
raiso.
But the descent "a the mountains on
the east side toward Mendoza, is mat
ter OF far more peril Before us lay
the dreaded idd<Sds which we had fre-
quently heard spoken Of; and many Of
the stories related concerning them had
filed us with vague apprehension Of
coming danger. \.
The term lad<ya Il given TO narrow
path which threads the tide Of steep
mountain, particularly when along the
brink of precipices and overhung by
crags. On the Uspalata paso there are
three Of these ldd<rds, Of which the third
and last, going eastward, is by far the
worst. 7-@y
II is called the Ladera de las Vacas, or
the "Cow Path" Beneath it flows the
Rio dc las Vacos, or Cow River. The
poems related some story connected with
the name which, however, the long
rough journey has jolted out Of my mind
past recall
On the second afternoon after passing
Tupungati, the guides told us that the
tdderas would be reached next morning
but as 1t proved we were 10 have com
paDy 10 passing them. Thus far W.
had seen few travellers on our way
having met only Government courier
and German-Jew clothing dealer.
Bnt that evening the tinkle of mule
bells along the path ahead announced
that a numerous troupa, or caravan, wa
not far in advance; AID Just at sunse
we came up with their bivouac in tn,
lea of eli fl which offered them shell e
from the chill evening wind.
IL was party of political refugees, a
we understood, that had left Mendoz
during late civil disturbance, now ol
their return. The party numbers
rising seventy persons among whom wer
twelve or fifteen women, some of thes
latter plainly ladies of good birth, an
at least twenty children under the ag
of ten.
For company's sake we made our ow
bivouac little the right of them; an
during the evening they testified thei
good will by first sending us a presen
of cake ana a bundle Of cigaritos, an
afterwards freely coming to our fire an
engaging in friendly conversation.
Early in the morning we were rouse
by the cries of the muleteers. On
friends were already astir, taking thei
mate (tea), and preparing to set forth
A long line of mules stood in the path
each with huge wicker panier, G
double basket slung across its back. Th
use of these / was not long in learning
they were for carrying the children. TT
little girls and boys were put in th
baskets, one on each side of the mule
back, and the covers shut. Doubles
this was the safest plan; yet it was ne
without thrill of fear, and / though
Of the loderas before them; nor did
wonder at the fond, anxious kiss ths
each mother bestowed on her darlin
ere the panier cover was shut and th
mule started forward.
First went the mules with the pacl
saddles of luggage, then followed tho,
with the children, while those ridden b
the women brought up the rear.
We hurried our own preparations an
set oil close behind the troupe, curiol
10 see them make the transit of Il
difficult paths ahead.
A ride of less than league down th
valley now brought us TO the first of Il
laderds. II is the least difficult of Il
three; and at the sight of 1t felt Il
the time quite relieved, for it did n
seem so very perilous. The path
nowhere on this one less than yard
width, and in but one place did Il
rocks impend over it. Upon the low
side the mountain sloped steeply dow
into a ravine; ard at points show'
precipices with two or three hundr,
feet sheer descent. The path curv
round the side of the mountain, and
i should Judge. mile in length.
On coming to the head of tie pa
where It begins to thread the brink
the gorge, the caravan had halted; a
the chief muleteer, or eapitaz, ga
some directions Girths were tightent
and then, at the word, the leading mi
started forward with his nose 10 {
ground carefully smelling out each st,
his bell tinklipg fitfully.
The others followed. Save tinl
of the bells, not sound Was TO