The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-11-19
(Harper's Bazar.J
Gentlemen's Fashions.

Two changes are made in the clothing made
for gentlemen, viz, all coats are shorter, and
trousers are narrower than those worn last
year; it may also be added that vests button SO
high that very little of the scarf is seen, and
the shirt front is entirely concealed. Mixtures
of color in the London Cheviots and English
cassimeres are chosen for morning, business
and travelling SUITS Plads and stripes are
still worn, but the preference is for indistinct
threads of color SO we'll blended in weaving
that sombre hue is produced, notwithstand-.
ing there are many threads of red or of blue
This suit is very English-looking, and the en-
tire suit should be made of one material. The
choice lies between short cut-away coat and
a short sack, but in either case it must be sin
gle-breasted, though it may be made to button
two or four buttons, according to the taste or
the figure of the wearer. The vest of the same
cloth, buttons very high, and with cut-away
coats it has no collar
Two materials are required in the semi-dress
suit used for church, visiting, the theatre, etc.,
viz, black diagonal cloth for the coat and vest
with dark mixed cloth for the pantaloons. The
coat is the double-breasted Prince Albert frock
coat, high-cut, with silk facing in front, and
bound with braid of medium width. The vest
is cut high to match the coat. The trousers
are not black, except for mourning suits, but
are mixed threads OR hair stripes of gray with
black, or other inconspicuous pattern in which
dark colors predominate. This suit is preferred
by many gentlemen for day weddings or recep-
tions. The full dress suit for dinners and ev-
ening receptions remains the swallow-tail coat
of fine black cloth, with vest of the same and
black trousers. The coat is shorter than it has
lately heen worn, is made as plainly as possi-
ble and it, with the vest to match, is cut very
low, displaying great deal of the shirt bo-
som.
For Winter overcoats long sacks prevail, but
surtouts are being introduced by the most FASH
ionable tailors. Brown is the favorite color
for overcoats, but blue and black are equally
stylish. The materials are fur beavers and
Elysians.
Shirt fronts for all occasions, whether for
business or for full dress, are made as plainly
as possible. without pleats or embroidery. They
are merely three thicknesses of linen, sloped
in the lower corners to make shield shape,
and finished down the front, outside the eye-
lets with perhaps two very narrow tucks, or
three or four fine cords, or it may be, several
rows of stitching Standing collars an inch
and quarter high all round, or else slightly
| higher behind are worn in a straight band, not
| turned over in front, but not meeting, leaving
bare space OF more than two inches at the
! throat. These are preferred to turn-down col
lars, yet the latter are worn. and are still con-
| sidered stylish, provided they leave the bare
| space in front just mentioned for standing col
| lars. The cuffs are wide and square-cornered,
| and instead OF tapping over at the button holes
| the edges must merely meet, and be fastened
by linked sleeve buttons
| Goats are cut so high that scarfs are nearly
concealed, and for this reason more color is ad-
missible than was formerly thought in good
taste. A great many dark red scarfs are seen,
and those in which old gold, red and blue ap-
| pear are now worn by men of quiet tastes
| Narrowly folded white lawn ties are for full
| dress. Black satin ties folded an inch and a
| half wide are for theatre parties and other
| semi-dresS occasions
| MWhite silk pocket-handkerchiefs have polka
| spots of color all over them, or else they have
| colored hems dotted with white; the hens are
wide, and may be hem-stitched in open-work,
or stitched on by machine. White linen pock-
ethandkerchiefs have narrow hens that are
hemstitched. Hosiery is preferred in solid col
ors rather than in stripes, and quiet shades of
brown or gray are used instead of red or blue
for general wear. A slight line of embroidery
up each side is the ornament nd this is in
contrasting gay color. Black silk socks are
worn with low shoes. Gloves for the street
are in tan or drab shades. with wide English
stitching on the back of a darker shade than
the gloves. Undressed kid, the more glossy
dressed kid and those of heavier skins are all
used. Those fastened by two buttons
are chosen by men of fashion. Calf
skin shoes with narrow box toes and low Eng
! lish heels are worn in the street.
The black silk hats worn for dress by gen.
tlemen have moderately bell-shaped crowns
six and half inches high. The medium mar
row brims have the D'Orsay curl, but are not
rolled so much as those of last season, except
| when intended for young men, who also choose
| slightly lower crowns. These dress hats cost
| IS. The hard round crown Derby remains the
| stylish felt hat for businers and general wear,
! The crown is very low, measuring only four
| inches and quarter in height, but the
brim is a trife wider than that of last year,
| though not quite SO much rolled. Black felt
hats are most used, though some of brown are
| sold to match suits. These cost $3.50 when
| of the best quality. Crush hats for the opera
are shown in silk, satin or merino, and cost
| from 81 to $12. English styles will prevail
in the seal-skin caps worn during the winter.
| They will have visors that may be turned
| down in 'front.' and wide rolled bands.