, 1880-06-06

Swift Engiish-bullt steamers now run up the
Dosphorus ail day long. Surfing from the
Horn. and Inks Galata the commercial @ quarter,
to Stamboul the true Turkish city, they touch
at both the European and AslatlG sides OF the
opportunity of swift and cheap loconotion.
The long summer dnys they are crowded with
men and women Of all nations, in all imaginary
costumes: and I'll the winter they carry ht1si-
ness people to and from the city, stopping ut
nenrly I'LL the yiilnges en- route, II takes
end t Of tie tie noephorns- @ s. "a % distance @ Of abont t
twelve miles. The scenery is lcyeiy and unique;
the Suitan's summer palaces, built OF white and
these are succeeded by some of the handsornest
kondhs OF the yizers and other notnble Turks;
the most extensive gnrdcns, crowned with tAll
ut the buck Of these palaces. Elegant dispatch
Iohts and the Sultun's not-to-be-d -dcspised sinall
ironIelad hcet, sit IN state upon tho deep and
limpid waters. not fifty yards from shore Gay
cutQues flash hthcr and thither in the golden
light Imposing mosques reflect their tapeTsng
mtraarets In the clear waters; Turkish villages,
with IL sprinkling Of European houses. nestle In
the sheltered valleys, while thickly- grown woods
crown the submits Of the bills. which stand out
IN bold rrlief against blue and amber sky.
Grtnt changes hive metamorphOsed - beautf-
full Stnrlboul.' Repeated nnd extensive fires
have destroyed the older and more picturesque
dwellings: have been told that thirty years
ago Stamboul I'm the rays Of the setting SUM
shone like city begen,med with rubies and set
in gold. This effect was caused by the numerous
bright red and yellow colors of the wood OF
which the houses were uniformly built To each
OF these was attached a garden full Of tai 1eafy
trees. The effect Of these vivid colors thrown
up against a pure Eastern sky, and reflected in
the waters OF the Afur1nora was mngical Indeed.
The golden balls bIuzcu like miniature suns, the
marble kiosks and magnificent mosques CLEANED
whittier than alabaster through the dark expresses,
while ne grind city lay baehed In Hood Of
But at this hour. though the mosques and the
taperinE mlnarets still stand, the golden bnlis.
are no longer to be seen, the marble columns
have grown somewhat gray, the tall trees are
few aud fur between. tho quaint red and yellow
houses have long been burned, and more thnn
half The dwellings arejbuilt of stone anu mortar.
Asnmons most half-cducated people, external
reforms ufe tho first adopted In Turkey. Cor
ruption In eyery form abounds; bribery is the
only means of advance to any post, or III any
Office. The most ill-chDsen people and the most
ignorant I'LL the thigh plAccs" here. The suresr
and easiest road to wealth Is By usury and
"espionnge." Moneyds lent privately ar enor-
nous interest, and without a suitable present
you dare hardly ask help in any matter even
from friend.
Turkish houses ore furnished with large div
ans, upon which the master Of the house curls
himself up, smoking his nargifeh "a kind Of
pipea receiving his friends ur visitors without
moving from his place. merely giving @ kind Of
sala'n4 und mohoning his friend to take his seat
beside HIM Here they will sit and converse for
hours refreshing themselves from time to time
with tny cups OF black coffee. Turkish houses