The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1880-09-09
Autumn Millinery.

Small bOnnets nd large round hats
are displayed or autumn and winter.
The bonnets are small capote shapes,
with the front slightly rolled backward
or projecting on top, yet very close on
the sides. The crowns are stiff, and of
medium size, with or without a curtain
band. These, as we'll as most round
hats, will be worn quite far back on the
head, and are furnished with strings.
The round hats are large English tur-
bans, with the brim rolled up all
around, but not close to the crown; or
else they are in Rubens and Gainsbor-
ough shapes, with one side-the left
turned up higher than the other. For
smaller hats is a close turban, and also
medium size in the shape of the En-
glish walking hat; the latter has low
broad crown, and broad brim turned
up on each side, but not close against
the crown; this gives broader appear
ance than has been used in this shape,
and leaves a space that is to be filled in
by long and very thick ostrich plumes.
The principal feature of new French
millinery goods is the plush pile and
fur-like finish given them. This is seen
not only ON the bonnets themselves, but
on the fabrics for trimming. The un-
usual cold of the last winter in Paris is
said to have suggested to manufacture
ers the propriety of introducing fleecy,
warm-looking goods of all kinds, and
the same cause has brought thick fea-
theirs into use, almost to the exclusion
of artificial flowers. Smooth felt bon
nets are not found among the early i'm
portations of millinery. The bulk of
the stock of untrimmed bonnets is made
of plush finished felts and "furry''
beavers, while many trimmed bonnets
are of silk plush or ofvclvet. The long
woolly nap is very becoming, and this
fact is so well recognized that many
bonnets and hats with smooth beaver
crowns have the fleecy finish on the
brim. Sometimes real furs, especially
seal-skin and the gray fox furs, are in
troduced as parts OF bonnets, and there
are bonnets made entirely of ostrich
feathers stripped from their stems and
applied to felt, or else woven into a
foundations; the latter are most seen in
the natural gray shades of ostrich plum
age. Small turbans of fancy feathers
are shown in most exquisite colorings
to wear with cloth and mouchoir cos
tunes. The lophophore, impion, pheas-
ant and peacock feathers are used for
turbars, and they are completed by two
wings at the back that touch without
tapping, in the Mercury fashion worn
several years ago. There are also dia-
dems of these fancy feathers that will
trim hat, and there are lovely feather
pompons, buckles, acorns, cones, and
leaves, with breasts or wings, and
sometimes the entire bird is worn.
Some golden pit mes of the bird-of-
paradise are also shown.
Red is the color that will be most
used in fall millinery; it is used for the
entire bonnet, or else in combination
with other colors. The fur beaver
bonnets and hats are imported in dull
red, myrtle green, bronze, coachmen's
drab, Capucine brown, peacock blue,
and the various shades of purple, also
in white and black; the latter are es-
pecially lustrous, and are very hand
some when trimmed with many plumes
of the same color, and long ornaments
of gold or of jet.
For trimming bonnets, plush, satin,
some velvet, and the satin Surah-
which is the soft twilled satin called by
milliners satin merveilleux-are the
fashionable materials. The Madras
plaids described for dress goods are
shown in Surah handkerchiefs, in vel
vets, plush and ribbons; the colors in
these gay plaids are most quantity
blended, and are decidedly unique.
Chenille will also be used again in
thick cords, and in q sort of galloon or
passementerie, in which it is combined
with tinsel. Jet will be a great deal
used for crowns. for covering brims, in
ornaments and feathers, and in long
hollow cut beads for edging the brims
of bonnets, three or four rows appear
ing on the edge. Some colored beaded
ornaments are shown, especially in he
liotrope, dahlia, lilac and other purple
shades; also in amber and golden hues.
Beaded Surah is imported for trim
mings. Another novelty is tigre, or tiger
plush, with the notified brown shades
of tiger-skins. This is used for cover
ing the brims of bonnets, and is shown
to fine effect on one of the new pic
turesque shapes called the Wagner hat;
the soft crown of plain brown velvet
falls on the tigre brim. which projects
slightly, and is lined with red plush.
Large bees and bugs of gilt, or of
mixed jet and gilt, are stylish orna-
ments. There are also bands of gilt
ribbon that are worn below the crown
of the bonnet, and formed into clasps
to hold soft satin Surah IN place. Large
Jet beads are used in the same way.