The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-05-12
WEDNESDAY MORNING, MAY -.

may be gathered there and carried up the
open part For thin wool dresses nuns veil
ing or the thicker French buntings are made
up in the styles just described Drab, ecru,
and black are the popular colors for such
dresses, and the entire dress is OF one piece,
without silk or figured goods in combination
The block Cheviots in gray shades, the rough
English homespuns. and coachman,s drab
cloth are used for heavier suits. Dark brown
is the favorite color for homespun cloth, es-
pecially when there are irregular red threads
woven in it. Shepherds check is also again
stylish for very young ladies-and misses.
The elbow cape is in great favor with young
ladies, as it is easily made, and so inexpensive
that three or four such capes are found in a
Summer outfit, viz, one of black lace, another
OF white lace, third of the cloth Of the travel
ing dress, and a fourth of black Sicilienne or
Surah, with a hood lined with red or orange
silk. Thin qualities of Surah silk are used as
the foundations of elbow capes that are covered
with lace fringe. Black Breton lace and the
woven French thread laces are most used for
these capes; the figures of Spanish lace are too
large to look well when pleated Sometimes
the entire cape is covered with row after row
OF lace pleating: but for economy's sake. ladies
use up short lengths of lace that they happen
70 have, by putting lace at the top only, and
fringe below. There are also capes that mere
ly cover the shoulders, and are formed by four
rows of pleated lace laid on Surah, with a ruff
at the top for the neck; some red yellow, or
blue ribbon is passed through puff of black
net and sewed outside the ruff to keep it erect,
and a bow of black satin ribbon is tied at the
throat in long loops and much longer ends.
Dressy white capes of the same small size have
ten or twelve rows of box-pleated Breton lace
covering the foundation, which may be net or
else white Surah. Very simple elbow capes
are OF any black silk or wool fabric, with three
or four pleatings on the edge and ruff at the
neck: to some of these Worth adds very SIM
ply shaped hood with gay colored Surah lining;
other Slclllenne capeS are nearly covered with
passementerie and fringe. The modistes also
import Melted capes of the elbow size made Of
heavy sewing twist, with jet bead in each
corner OF the square meshes and deep ietted
fringe on the edge. The full ruche of lace
which forms a ruff high about the neck is al
ways OF black lace, and on this ruche much of
the style of the cape depends.
Foulard handkerchiefs instead of cambria
ones are made into cravat bows. The new fam
cy is to fold the kerchief through the middle
each way, thus making square, and then turn
over in point the corner which is made of the
middle of the handkerchief A gay little
brooch is stuck on this turned-over revers, and
the cravat is finished. This is very pretty
with heliotrope or a pale blue handkerchief
with white embroidered border edged with
lace.
Another fancy is silk striD trimmed on two
opposite sides with lace, then laid in eight
lengthwise folds close upon each other; the
lace ends are at top and bottom. The top end
OF the lace with some of the silk is then turned
over fatty toward the left side, and the longer
silk and lace part below spreads out like a fan.
This is beautiful in white Surah and fine Bre-
ton lace. White India muslin is used in the
same way.