The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-05-12
LHarrer's Bazar.]
New York Fashions.

Among the latest importations are genuine
India foulards in very light or delicate patterns
or else in designs of the richest coloring. They
come in lengths of seven yards, enough for an
over-dress or for combining with other goods,
and they cost $40 length. They will be used
for long gowns with velvet or satin skirts, and
also for matinees.
The black Surah costumes are among the
choicest Summer suits. They are made up
over tafetta silk, and are as light as grenadine;
and probably will prove to be, cooler. One of
the handsomest shown has the skirt nearly
covered with two kilt flounces of the Surah.
each of which is widely bordered with watered
silk. The overdress is "a polonaise, made with
the middle of the front ard back formed of
fine lengthwise pleats. Thread lace over white
lace trims the neck, down the front and the
sleeves. Another black Surah dress meant
for the house is round skirt trimmed with
pleatings on which red Surah is stitched in a
wide border, and the edge is finished with lace.
The matinee is long, and has a red pleating
around the edge, and also very deep pleating
around the neck and sleeves.
Red Surah and also orange is much used in
Illuminating dark costumes, and on fabrics of
light quality it is fast taking the place of satin
in this regard just as the figured foulards are
preferred to heavier brocaded silks for combin-
ing with summer goods 1t is considered es-
pecially stylish to use this soft twiled silk be-
tween the pleats of the wool skirts of pilgrim
age costumes, and also for lining the hoods of
the pilgrim gown. Thus a skirt of pleated
black wool has a band of Surah nearly two
inches wide stitched down between the triple
IL, Of I'll hat fAA1x
stitched-from the knees down. Another
peated skirt of blue wool is laid in box pleats
two inches wide, and the space underneath,
between the pleats, is covered with bands of
red Surah.
One of the favorite caprices of French dresses
is that of making the front and sides of the
skirt represent five great box pleats, and these
have eyelets worked in the edges, and are
laced down with silk cords ending in tassels.
A contrast of color is always seen in these;
thus an 6cru or drab wool dress has dark green
cord and tassels, while one of navy blue has
red eyelets, cords, and tassels. The latter
makes beautiful skirt for blue Jersey Dodices
that are laced with red. The overskirt is then
a very short apron, much wrinkled. and with
bouffant back drapery To wear over the Jer-
sey waist in the street is short gown and
hood of blue wool shaped like the tea gowns
but much shorter
Pleated skirts for walking dresses are more
popular than they ever haye been, and are
most variously made Some are box-pleated
in single pleats, others are double kits, while
many have three killed hounces covering
them. Most of the skirts of one pleating fall
at the foot on narrow pleated border, which
is often of dark orange or red, in contrast to
| the goods of the skirt.
Ladies who make their own dresses delight
| in the full round skirts that are not among the
| imported dresses. These vary in width from
| three to four yards. The present fancy is TO
| tuck such skirts in the old time way, having
| cluster of four to six tucks, each two inches
| wide, and very close together, yet not tapping.
| This is around the foot of the dress, and may
| have a knife or box pleating below it, coming
| out from under the edge of the skirt. This is
| very nice for thin wool goods, though heavier
| cloths, such as the Cheviots, have but one or
| two wide tucks, and when tailors make these
| dresses, they cover the tucks with rows of
| Stitching OF course it is impossible to slope
| or gore the breadths of skirts that are to be
| tucked, as they must be straight to tuck
| smoothly; hence these skirts are only sloped
slightly at the top of the front and side breadths
| and are deeply shirred behind, or else laid in
| very full pleats The round waist with wide
| belt is liked with such skirts and the only dra-
| perry is the short wrinkled apron confined to
| the front and sewed in with the side seams OF
| else there are pointed wing-like pieces ON the
| sides, each finished with tassel, or perhaps
drapery somewhat in panier styles extends to
| the sides, or it may be there are two flat
| square ends down the front tucked to match
| the skirt, and edged with fringe or pleating
| If basque is preferred, it must be open be-
| low the waist to show the shirred shirt, and to
| do this the entire back is sometimes divided
| into pieces that are caught together at the
| ends, and each finished with taSsel or else
the middle seam is opened below the waist,
and turned toward each side in reYers leaving
| the shirring in view.
| Sleeves of these simple dresses are made
quite full at the top, and are gathered in at the
| armhole to make them stand up slightly like
the leg-ofmutton sleeves. The wrist is tin
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and with stitched edges; it is usually left open
| a short distance up the outside seam, that lace