Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-07-26
OUR PARIS LETTER.


VEGETABLE, MEAT AND FISH MARKET5sU-
BURBAN EXCURSIoNS-DRESS GETTING IN
PARIs-A VISIT TO THE HlPPoDRoMK-THE
GREAT FETB, ETC.
Correspondence Of The Evening Star.l
PARIS. July 18th. 1850.
Autumn fruits were formerly two words
which were mutually suggestive; but in the
advanced culture Of the present time we look
for everything ripe and rare In spring or very
early summer. Two months ago the strawber-
ries began; then followed apricots cherries, cur
rants, gooseberries, raspberries. Now we have
all these, with the larger fruits, green figs,
plums and melons, till the streets are full Of the
heavy fruity odors. and the manufactures of
preserves eXhale delicious whiffs from the great
copper boilers within the DOORS as do the baskets
just In from the country piled up outside them
At the immense markets there seems to be
infinite variety and profusfOn. Two visits last
week to the "Halles Centrales" gave me some
idea of the sources from which the great city is
market for meats, fish. vegetables, fruits and
flowers. How sturdy and saucy the "ladies OF
the market" are! The smaller nedrc7tGndes will
assall you with shrll cries to buy, but the first
class stall keepers assume fine ''take it or
leave 1t" air. They have all charming candor
in the personal remarks which they exchange
about your manner and appearance. and the
noted and repeated. The hOuSekeeperS who
object to the prices or quality OF the wares get
10 very gentle retonders AS our bonne laid
down basket OF petitS pots with an angry pro-
test at their price, the market woman said with
an altogether untranSateable scOrn to her part
ner "Chut. Let her go! She Is Ger'n,dnl" Con-
epudph. as mrs. Parttngton would put it. '''''
On the high market days, Tuesdays and Fri
days, the supplies OF the lesser markets are
doubled and tre6led. The streets on either Side
exhibit much the same appearance as those
around our own markets. Peasants bring in
their loads OF fresh vegetables, small fruits and
spicy herbs. Walking through these long rows
OF stalls one gives grateful thanks to LIBERAL
Open-hearted Nature for her varied and whole
some gifts 1t is almost possible to believe that
we are out in the real country, so fresh and
sweet are the smells and exhalations from
thyme and estragon. parsley and crefentl ana
the neW-dug potatoes and salad. The Illusion
would not resist long the less attractive parts
OF the market, where meats and fish are sold.
The turbot, much esteemed fish on this side
OF the globe, is hideOus looking monster, and
there are others which one wonders did not for
ever repel even barbarian's first culinary ex-
pertinent.
friend wanted me to go to see the abbatolrs
on killing day." explaining how perfect and
sroHa Is the ana sRg nnepg
bloodshed, the animal is dead. 1t is good to
hear that the DID, terrible way can be thus bet
tered, but i1. neither there re, nor or to the morgue
mails have much more interest for me, and
among these am always glad to see the hon.
est, sort eyes, the brown faces and the strong
hearty little bodies OF the dOnkeys. They do a
lot OF work here harnessed to the little carriole
Of light wood Uust the favorite model OF q
child's garden wagon). laden with heavy enough
burdens of every deScribable ware or trotting
contentedly between the deep paniers full Of
clover or flowers, or perhaps earthenware and
metal pots and pans. The farmers or market
gardeners living near Paris use these cheap and
easily kept little animals much. l wonder we
do not import them and try the effect of emf
grafton on this kind of donkey.
have made the gardens and green places of Paris
quite vernal again. The mornings and evenings
are cool. There is wonderful absence of all
annoying insects so much SO that can easily
believe the dear old gentleman who asserted
that for good part Of the summer one fly,
with slight lameness in the right fore leg. had
been his guest at breakfast! Imagine our being
past the Fourth" without having had temper
and comfort disturbed by fly or mosquito! Yet
for all these pleasant things, it is not good to be
kept in Paris after the last week OF June One
Is balcony, to sit on it OF an evening. But the
noise! Compound clamor OF hundred thou
sand vehicles, animals, cries, hammerings,
| OF Paris whether blown by the driver or pressed
| squeakingly out OF the tin and rubber cor
trivance with hand or foot It is deafening,
| to the very springs OF life. Ispeak, OF course
OF the great thoroughfares OF the city. Among
the very old and very new streets there is often
| complete quiet to be found.
1t is delightful to get away for few hours to
| some one OF the many lovely places attainable
by railway or Seine boat, and, going early In
| the morning, to return In the first afternoon
hours when the general crowds are coming out,
St Cloud, some miles down On the left bank of
| the river, is an enchanting place. There Is a
hill to climb and there are long alleys of lordly,
gracious trees, all kept here as perfectly as ii
| is possible to keep trees, and park, fiower-beds
and shrubber1es. The ''castle" is ruin, like
the form OF government that founded and kept
itand like that, far past the possibility or desr-
ability OF repair: but the serene and beautiful
things OF nature remain. giving repose and de
light to the city-tired and overworked popula-
ton. st. German en- Laye Is another resort
going to which one passes Malmalson and other
spots of romantic and historic fame. 1t was
at st. Germain that Louis XIV. was born
There also lived awhile and died the poorest of
the poor old royal frauds and shams the exfled
James II. OF England. l would qualify that,
however, by saying that even that distinction
may not belong to him since he has been sue
ceeded by such superlatively po)r frauds and
shams OF royalty, dead and alive There is a
superb stretch OF terrace shaded by magnificent
TeW Of Of ana a6d @
wood Is just enchanting, with its fresh young
growth mingling with the old, its quiet walks
and thick. SOFT carpet OF grass and wild flowers.
| think Versailles seldom attracts second visit
! of the sight seer. 1t is so mOnotonous and for
mai with the prim dry airs OF the d,scien regime
strongly impressed upon it all. It's miles OF
pictures, good and bad d,-mOStly bad,-are very
well to pass by unnoticed, and a warning
| against the fearful fatigue to feet and eyes
SnOuld Oe gratefully heeded,-a rare fate for
warnings, however.
In a recent copy OF THE STAR l saw with
pleasure that In a loud and impressive warning
Olive Logan had lifted her voice. She cries out
TO our unhappy and deluded countryWomen
who by thousands come to Paris. TO study?
To visit the great galleries? To enjoy its
charming open-air life? To refresh memory
and brighten Intelligence amidst its scenes OF
| the greatest, saddest, awfullest dramas and
tragedies That humanity has enacted? Not So.
alas! They come to learn In what smallest.
unnatural compression to torture ribs and
viscera; to become ''chic" in air and style: to
combine colors In endless variety, and often
In deplOrably bad taste; to hunt the ureSSmaker
and Invade the Shops. Poor things! They do
have Dad time Indeed! The waists are pinched
as have never before seen them; the feet suf-
fer the tOrtureS OF the Wilfully ignorant in the
high-heeled, sharp-tOed shoes; their skins smart
under the cosmetics and powders stopping the
pores and taking away every breath OF the sweet
ness OF wholesome, natural girlhood aud woman
hcod, for even the'elderly person'of the present
1ash1onable generation sacrifices too often all
dignity and grace OF mature life to,the mad folly
OF young" fashions. And all that is said OF
the dishonesty and inefiiciency OF Paris dress
makers might oe supplemented with endless
examples.
Yet l have word to say on the other side
II one has been long enough here TO "knoW the
Ways" OF the City, or Is fortunate enough to
nave a TRENDS guidance and direction, I am
quite sure that lady can be clothed mere with
more elegance and with less trouble and expense
than IN any other city In the world. There are
many quiet and hOnOrably conducted establish
menus where one can pO Pprhano tho rooroo