Morning journal and courier., 1880-04-17
Fashions Latest Freaks.


| l the coming styles.
 Heliotrope and cream is the favorite con- 1 bination of colors this season. l Threads of green, blue, yellow, black and 1 white make up the color called serpent. Small sunhowers, from one-third to half l the natural size, are popular as corsage bou- quets.
 Gilt and silver balls, both plain and facet l ted. form the heads of fancy pins for the hair. New dress buttons come in two sizes-one ! intended for the coat and the other for the dress waist. The fancy stutfs of tho spring and summer ! will be employed for both relief effects and for comb nations.
 Beaded passementeries will be largely used for trimming silks and satins used in costumes and wraps for the early spring. Dragons, bees, butterflies and birds in in- definite forms appear among the plain leaves and other Eastern designs of lately imported spring goods.
 The most exquisite of grenadines are the new ribbon stripes which present alternate bands of plain black and of bright color bar red with black stripes.
 The Spanish colors, mingled with red and yellow, find much favor in flowers and Mare chale Neil and bright red and jacqueminot roses are used in the same culster. One of the New York dry goods firms has recently displayed gown embroidered with moss rose buds, in which real moss was used
 
 The long overdress, which has recently been revived, is nothing but a gracefully draped princess polonaise, which requires only founce to complete the costume.
 The foulards which have dots as large as quarter of dollar are used for street suits, but there are plain foulards for quiet women who object to looking too much like leop- ards.
 Evening dresses are made with the bodice opsn, in the shape of q square or an oval, and trimmed with draperies, lace and fringe. The sleeves are finished at the elbow, and trimmed to correspond.
 The latest novelty iii the way of making up velvet is to have the dress composed of per fectly plain corsage, plain coat sleeves and plain demi-tratned skirt without founces, tab Her or overskirt.
 All sorts of feathery travelled ruches and fluffy trimmings will be in vogu, in the sea sons millinery. Also all made trimmings, rosettes, straight pieces in folds, and shirrings in wheels, squares aud cresoents.
 Many mazarin collars are still worn, both of white and black lace. Two pleated pieces of point d'esprit, or of crepe lsse ruching one turned up and tho other down, with rib bon between, make 8 very pretty color.
 There are polka dots among the cheap sum- rner silks, as wslI as pin-head checks and hair line stripes. Pretty suits of plain and check ed silk are made up for young girls, the coat with wide Iapels, and the ovsrskirt being of
 
 Gold lace, with alternate scallops filled with messy floss in golden green, with fine dashes of red, soften the borders on the fastest bon nets the trimming which corresponds is Q plat of real golden wood moss, with viosts and graceful wood flowers seeming to grow out of it.
 Princess gowns, the only sensible dress for little girls are trimmed with contrasting CO., Iors for evening wear. A costume of blue watsred silk is worn with deep brown sacque having a cashmere border two inches wide, and has friIl of the same ribbon all around it's collar.
 Shirley Dare tells of pretty dress which has no kilt plating or shirring about it, except in a plaited satin belt, which hangs in front. The undordress is cut into points on the lower edge and so is the overskirt, and neither is draped The waist and overskirt are cut to- gether, and the sleeves are of the bishop shape.
 Crepe lisse is still used to soften the effect of lace ruf1es at the neck and wrists, but it is hardly needed with the soft plaitings of Languedoc lace. It is not considered proper to use it by itself except with mourning goods or with evening costumes in diaphanous ma terials, but some of the new styles are tempt ing to any one.
 4 handsome dinner dress, lately nude, is en princess, the tablier being of violet faille, covered with narrow side plaitings, and the train of violet velvet. The waist has the
 
 satin. The side forms, of the velvet, run into deep paniers, which attached to the train. |
 The cheviots of pure wool loosely woven are among the favorite fabrics for early spring costumes that will also serve for travelling dresses during the summer. They have what was called last year the "hannel finish ;" are evenly but loosely woven, and are without luster They are in small pin-head checks of cream with brown, two drab shades, pale olive with darker green, and two shades of gray.
 Figured materials are now used for entira dresses, being combined largely with material of one shade, which is used for the folds, fiounces, revers, vest-in a word, for all the trimmings of the dress. This combination, however, is not so pretty as the reverse, which consists of 0 plain dress with accessories made of figured fabrics.
 Pretty percalss and cambrics have dark blue, lavender or gray grounds, strewn with white polka dots They arc trimmed with narrow gathered rufdes edged with Russian braid edeing or with torehon. Tucked yokes are on some of these dresses and a band edged with torchon Iace borders theyoke, while be- low the yoke the waist forms side-pleated basque to be worn with a belt. Bands of plain blue ginghan border the ruff1es of strip ed blue and white cambric dresses.
 New York cloth suits made up with plain underskirts and overskirts that look like aprons in front, but have the ends hidden be- meath the soft draperies of the back. The basque is double breasted coat, and has a bow set on the postilion at the back, and another at the throat, matching the satin pip inps of the earment. The collar is of open worked embroidery and the cuffs match 1t.
 Plain red oil calico is imported to make up in combination with figured goods. The Scotch ginghams, sometimes called Madras | einghams, are again provided to make the useful, pretty dresses that came into favor | last year. For the next season there are large | plaids of gay colors for some parts of the dress. aud similar plaids in the same colors for other parts of the same dress Striped einehams are also shown, and there are many of the gray blue seersucker stripes alternating with white.
 The most decorative needlework basket is lined with garden satin padding beautifully upholstered. Three are tied together back to back, thus offering three fronts and three bas- kets. One is appointed for knitting, with bags for wool balls and slides for needles; an other for needIework, with pin-cushion and bags for reels of cotton, needle-book, etc., all of which accessories are in the back, leaving the hollow tree for the work itself the third for fancy work
 In selecting velvet it is desirable to get that with elastic pile that will be least easily flat tened by use. Some of the richest velvets with thickest pile are often the most easily marred. The way to test this is for the pur- chaser to obtain samples and crease them by pressing sharp-edged paper knife against the pile or in other ways, and also molsten- ing it slightly If the pile does not come up after the pressure is removed it certainly will not resist that which comes with even the most careful usage.
 Ruined by ssPersonal."
 az