The Bossier banner. [volume] (Bellevue, Bossier Parish, La.) 1859-1952, 1880-04-22
FASHIONS FOR WOMEN.
What Well Dressed Ladies are Expected to
l Wear the Coming Season.
DREssY COSTUMES FOR SPRING

OnGoC1 SOO1 u mEd TOh Or RIMS
Dressy costumes for street wear dur
ing the spring and early summer are
made with fancifully cut surtout, or
redingote, as it is also called, and full
short skirt bordered with heavy thick
ruche, or else cluster of narrow plait-
ings. The idea in such costumes seems
to be that of dispensing with all drapery,
and giving the desired roundness by the
fullness of the skirt, also by the richness
OF the material used in the skirt. The
fancy for Directoire styles has brought
this undraped toilette into fashion, and
it has also contributed the exaggerated
revers collar and pockets which belong
to the Directoire costumes. Brocade is
chosen for the long coat, and either
plain satin, silk of heavy quality, satin
de Lyon, or velvet for the skirt. Black
Dlrectoire suits are very stylish, with
facings of satin, either red, cream color,
or heliotrope, showing on the coat
Slngle-breasted coats have the wide
notched Directoire collar set on, while
those with double breast have it cut as
part OF the coat. The seam at the waist
line, with the pockets set there, is used
to give a short-waisted appearance.
The back is made of the two middle
forms, and short side body on each
side beginning in the armhole. Below
the waist line the seams are left open,
and the skirts are lined with colored
twilled silk, or else satin; this gives four
straight hanging pieces of the coat skirt.
Two large buttons of enamel or of
bronze, or else painted pearl, define the
waist in the middle seams of the back,
and under these buttons the waist line
seam begins, as the middle back forms
are the only ones that are continuous.
The skirt has four straight breadths, and
single gored breadth, which is in front.
The width at the bottom is about four
yards. Sometimes Innings, and indeed
weights, are added to these skirts: but
this is superhuous, as most ladies take
great comfort in the slight weight of
these new costumes, and also in the fact
that fifteen yards are now sufficient, when
formerly from twenty to twenty-five were
required. A broad band of brocade will
serve for trimming at the bottom, or,
when economy is the first requisite, the
skirt may be left quite plain; but there
IS much prettier effect given when
wide ruche or cluster of three or four
fine knife plaitings borders the skirt
A black brocaded satin surtout. lined
with lavender satin, and worn over a
full skirt OF plain satin de Lyon, makes
a very rich costume for the street. Dark
green brocade is very handsome faced
with cream or old gold, or else with red
satin, and plating of red satin is then
placed around the foot of the green
skirt by way of illumination. Bead
ed cords, with passementerie spikes
rather than tassels at the end, are draped
around the hips to hang in front or on
the left side. Sometimes beaded fabric
is used for the Directoire collar. cuffs.
and pocket flaps of plain black satin
coats.
Ladies who object to surtout suits be-
cause they are not used in the house: as
many short dresses now are, have bro
,aded skirted coats of medium LENGTH.
With plain silk or satin de Lyon skirts |
with brocade like the coat.
Lengthwise trimmings of brocade are |
considered most effective, such as an
entire front breadth cut out in forked |
ongues at the lower edge, and made to
est there at the foot upon two or three |
inc knife-plaitings, which are also con-
inued across the side cores, and some
lines all around the skirt. A brocaded |
PANEL revers on each side gore, showing
acings of satin its whole length. e
mother design for trimming such skirts
ne front breadth is then wrinkled
lightly, and the back is covered by
wo straight breadths shirred in clus-
ers, or at most very irregularly draped;
or stout ladies two and half or in
Iced three full breadths are sometimes
worm, hanging straight and plain in the
Jack, with very deep shirring on the
ournure. Apron effects, SHRED scarfs.
nd moderate paniers are, however.
till used by those to whom they are be.
oming, and they will remain popular
urlng the summer because they are so
Tell adapted to grenadines, fine bunt-
1gs, and other transparent fabrics.
he Tallien over-skirt, open up the left
lde, and scarfs that hang In Oriental
lyle down the left side, where they end
tassels, are favorite designs for such
rapings.
SPRING BONNETs.
The turbans for spring are either
ound hats or bonnets, according to the
resence or absence of strings, and are
'orn in French fashion further back on
ne head than has been customary here.
chip or Tuscan braid crown with a
uff OF heliotrope satin for the brim is
ne OF the simple and stylish illustra-
ons of this hat, while still palmer
ct very dressy style has the brim turned
closely around the crown, plainly
overed with pale gray velvet, some
elvet folds higher up, and two or three
rived ostrich tips nodding outward |
nd backward from the crown. This /
at is set back on the head, leaving the
rofile in relief, and showing the thick
esses that are now curled on the fore
cad; this is far more effective than
hen the turban is drawn down over
le forehead almost to the eyebrows. +
lack chip turbans are trimmed with
ack grenadine that has velvet polka {
DTS; long gold-headed pin is thrust
trough one side, and there is a large
tin bow behind, also two black o.
ich tips.
The heliotrope colors that promise IN