Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1880-09-01

Argus-eyed sentinels successfully posted here may
have witnessed ride Of two hours further
west brings us to one Of the most famous battle
fields Of Greece, and to the little village hard by
which was the birthplace Of Plutarch The
ancient Cheronea is called in modern Greece
Capurna. Here very near, certainly in some
part Of the plain before us,-a plain admirably
adapted for free and open ight,-the Boeotians
achieved their independence over Athens, B c.
4i7, Philip OF Macedon won the decisive victory
over united Greece 1893 b. c., and here. B. c. So
the Roman Sula defeated the armies OF NTH
there was a remarkable memorial erected The
Boeotians who fell were all buried in one deep
pit and over the spot on a low foundation, was
placed colossal marble lion. Afterwards base
and all sank, and possibly, to protect the monu-
ment In some time Of war the whole was covered
with mound of earth For centuries only
tumuus was seen or supposed to exist. Finally
1t was excavated and the lion disenterred. But
the local authorities, not knowing its history nor
valuing 1t rightly as a work Of art, caused or per-
mited 1t to be broken in pieces,-some say for
the treasure 1t was thought to contain. Here
around the pit (which has recently been dug out
to a considerable depth lie the massive frag-
ments. The head is quite entire, the legs are
each detached from the body, and the body itself
which must have been nearly ten feet in length,
has been shvered into dozen pieces. 1t might
easily be reconstructed and would then be GER
tainly what the historian Mure deems it now
the most interesting sepulchral monument in
Greece
From this point we had originally intended to
go north to Thermopyle, but bad weather and
the wretched state of the mountain roads obliged
us to renquish this project. and hence we return
to Athens by way Of Thebes, Chacis and the pas.
of Decelea. The first named town, so renowned
In the days OF Epamnondas and the supremacy Of
Beotia, and then seat of luxury and the arts,
is now the home OF perhaps fifteen hundred unen-
ergetic people, and the most unkempt and filthy
village we have seen In Greece. Yet on one
side we trace the foundations Of very ancient
walls, and many Of the modern dwellings Of
rough unhewn stone are hecked here and there
by pieces of marble columns, cornice or freze.
These are indeed, "mournful relics of her for
mer grandeur" The country around is only
partially cultivated, is entirely destitute OF trees
and shrubbery, and is, during the summer, we
are told, as dry and white as the sands of the
desert. Chalcis, on the island Of Eubtea, and
separated from the mainland only by the bridged
! strait Of the Euripus-through which current,
) sometimes northwards and sometimes southwards,
flows at the rate often Of six or eight miles an
hour-s interesting both account Of its present
condition, and still more through its history and
associations. As we approached 1t a battalion Of
cavalry was marching out for daily exercise. The
high walls erected in the time OF Venetian soyer-
eighty, and distinguished for their square towers
Q and lion crests miniatures Of the Campanle OF St
! Marks, are yet In quite good preservation. The
: new city outside is busy workshop Of shoemak-
ers. A little south Of Chalcis are two bays, one
OF whch-topographer still quarrel over The
I ,chich-must have been Aubis, immortalized in
8 heroic and tragic song as the rendezvous of the
Greek fleet before its departure for Troy, and a:
the scene Of the sacrifice Of Iphigenia. On oui
ninth day we follow the winding shores of thes'
bays for about three hours, then strike off from
t Dramisi towards the mountains on the right fore
II the Asopus in nearly three feet Of water, by
Q rough path over jagged limestone, gain the sum
nit OF the pass Of Decelea and, after ten hours ii
Q the saddle and on foot, find welcome shelter anC
Q repose at the country seat OF King George b!
Q this southern pass over Mount Parnes Mardonia
d led the Persans on their retreat after the BATH
II of Salamis, and here the Spartans entrenche'
g themselves, to the great injury Of Athens int
e later years Of the Peloponnesan war. The king
u summer home on this mountain eyrie overlook
the whole Attic plain the Acropolis and the Sar
70 vonc gulf beyond and with its extensive garden
s. and ornamented grounds-all the work Of the las
st ten years-forms one Of the most attractive vii
lie lagos Of Europe The February mosning here
re like one in the beginning Of May at home, and
r as we descend to the plain and draw near the en-
sla. hnak lxuit
Oh almost tropic fierceness HIT Y.