Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-10-02

euetCneo smOotnv oveI the ek1n ana peffectlV
outlined the figure. TO make complete Jersey
costume killed skirt was added. which was
united to the jacket and the seam hidden under
the folds OF silken scarf knotted st the side.
round collar OF lace and the riboed wrists con.
cealed and ornamented also with lace or
rufiled trimming.
These Jersey costumes have been common in
London fer the past eighteen months. but they
have not been seen here excepting occasionally
one brought over by tourist
The large houses such as Stewards and Ar
mold Constable, have had the knitted silk Jer-
sey jackets in stock but have made no point or
them because the statesmen did not understand
what they were for; they showed them and sold
them as undergarmentS During the past six
months every house OF any pretensions has had
them. but did not exhibit them trimmed or In
conjunction with skirt as a complete costume.
Inc truth Is American women did not take TO
only use to which IL could be put is as an addi-
ton to the regular dress for warmth and for
thls purpose the rne cashmere merino, with
the finished neck and wrists, (when sleeves are
added), are really more useful and suitable
The latest improvement on the jersey In Eng
land is bodice made OF '-stockingette" a
1aoric which looks like knitted silk or merino
ana Is elastic, though IL Is shaped and made
more convenient by buttoning at the back
These are made up into entire costumes and a
number have been imported this fall. They
are pretty and coquettish but girlish looking
and not adapted to matronly women. They
may De worn by young married ladies as house
this last, indeed they seem specially designed
Tor the skirt OF the Havelock and the skirt OF
the jersey form a succession of killing which
u axe very graceful double tunic
The ''StockiageJte" Jersey OF course admits Of
nuch greater variety In color and f1nish than l.
possible In the ''spun silk Jerseys, which are
also very expensive. In England they are a
bere the price is SIP TO sl5. and then there is
only the beginning OF costume
CoInRs AND FABRICS
Inc coiOTS OF the season are bronze, gold and
garnet: There Is hardly anything into which
these do not enter. and the quite new materials
snow these shades In different combinations
almost exclusively. There are fine bronze
lines Of silk In a fat antique embroidery stitch.
one way garnet, the other gold, making a plaid
nearly quarter OF yard square. The beauty
ana elegance OF This combination cannot be
described. But who Is to wear such a fabrlcP
1t ought indeed to be daughter OF the gods In
being dfvinely tall, for q short woman would be
lost IN one of the checks
All the shades are dark and so fine one e. can,
uVated by them: one would like to buy for all
tne WoIld, Tor the last thing is the most beauti-
1u,, and one could keep on buying forever.
ihefe are no ngureS In wool. The grounds are
dark. soft arlnures and camels-h.ir Cloth, with
striped plaided or Indian borders Noxndng IS
eiu9e, however; The handkerchiefs pfsSs cad
borders are in shaded tones: where hiass iefsf is
used In satin as a border to richer fAlasIcS the
lines are narrow and clustered. In tie indian
borders and brocadeS all rich colorS ara blended
IHCo sulali araDeSque and palm-leaf designs.
which are more characteristic and less fancifui
than formerly.
The more expensive the material the less con-
trast there Is ln the color and the more quietly
are shades and tones blended. The most costly
armure ciothS-thOse that are s. per ward
double Width)-are enriched with borders OF
satin brocade In the same shade OF color Beryl
blue, Tyrol or myrtle green, faIsau golden
broWnl, evecque (purple), and GIL Bias. the new
red. The great trimming fabric is to be plush
and for some purposes ii is very effective but it
- i, aouotiul II IL oDtains much OF vogue here.
lt has always failed to do so. for Ii Is not at ali
as r1ch In appearance as velvet and costs nearly
as much as the German" ssilk-facedD veIvets
when are so popular for trimming purposes,
an0, III TACT, answer for caps and bonnets, which
OnIy last season. just as well as the more ex-
penSive fabric.
AS change, plush will be welcomed for the
mounting or cloth surtout and cutaWay coats
accompanied by a Russian or Tam O,Shanter
cap, also or plush, and 1t makes handsome coats
and sacqueS for children, but as substitute for
e tto eitner Ior the trimming OF garments or
the making Of the garments themselves, it is
hardly possible that it could be accepted nv
women OF refined tastes. ~
sn In millinery, plush seems likely to be more
successful 1t Is effective In the making OF cans
and oonnets, and affords not only an alterna-
tive TO velvet and change from the dullness OF
felt, but compromise between velvet and
satin. -A
The latter requires to be rich In quality. or
else 1t wears badly and looks poorer than six.
Ii handsome, IL IS not only expensive but snowy,
toilet. Plush and beaver are likely 70 be yery
much In demand, therefore, Tor secondary hats
and bonnetS. The velvetS OF the season are
figured In very large and rich patterns with q
mixture OF cut and uncut threads In the design.
Whlca ACIDS greatly to the effect OF the raised
MOVERS, leaves and transverse bands which
follow closely the best models In decorative ART.
The silks are also brocaded In large patterns.
ana are very rich. You can almost pick the
white carnations off q golden brown (faiSanl
SIX, were they not tangled up with slender
brown 1berS and grasses.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS
The new wraps for fall wear take on the dol
man shape They are small, OF rich black satin
or satin armure, heavily trimmed with lace or
cut upon the shoulder.
There are almond. tinted dolmans OF satin
armure or line camel'S-hair cloth, lined with SILK
ana trimmed with double border Of Indian
SILK, each edged With deeper silk and Chenille
fringe. Which form lovely evening and visiting
wraps for the between season, but the black are
almost obligatory With black toilets and for
dress and belongings.
Cloths will be much used for winter cIoaks
aho out-ooor garments, the new feather
ciosh standing first on the list This is thick
py ladies for driving, or Newmarket" coats
Large plush or narrow velvet collars would be
used for the mounting.
A lighter cloth would be used for the "Have.
lock" and the wood color and faisan mixtures
are most in favor for listers, which are OF two
xmas, Inc shaped ulster, with cape, laced upon
each shoulder, and at the back with silk cord
spiked ends (smalD, and the ulster with round
cape and Capuchin hood, girdled at the waist
with cable cord knotted at the side. This has
open sleeves which, like the hood, are lined or
Father faced, with satin.
The cheyiof, tweed and feather mixtures are
all used In the making of listers, while the
nnish Is either OF the ground shade or In an In
0lan mixture. Or forms a very dark and mild
contrast-as darkest shade OF garnet With dark.
est shade OF myrtle green.
AUTUMN CAPS, HATS AND BONNErs
caps are now regularly added to the list of
MATS ana Donnets which make I'D the choice In
fall and winter headgear, and as they are the
novelty they must have the first plaza. The
NEST taking" OF the new cap STYLES "a the
Tam O'Shanter," which consists OF large
lull irregular crown set 10 a band which must
be the side OF the head above the ears and
trlzzes The cap requires very little trim ming
Ii may be furnished with a band Of feathers
and pompOn Or aigrette set high at the side:
but the most approved method is to cross silk
cords upon the crown zone or more colors being
used IN their manufacture, and put three rows
upon the head; plush being the favorite
material for the production Of the caps them
selves.
The Russian" cap is a round turban which
may be or felt with plush border, and is often
made entirely OF feathers, the golden and OuIo-