Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-06-10
FOR THE FAIR SEX.


sllauts VI HtllotiOpe are III preparation.
There ale also mauve- colored satins
with small punches of violets, which are
arranged like the madras fichus so much
wide borders. Many suits are 10 be
made in this style. The "tissu Mont
morency," n new material, Is covered
with designs of handsome cherries and
leaves. The grounding Is dark garnet or
bronze color. The material is arranged
in different-sized bands, divided by light
threads. Snowy toilets for young ladies
are made of this goods, and it is also
much employed for sun-shades. Surah
and foulard continues to be the favored
materials, rs they are light and soft and
admirably suited to all kinds of drapery
Position basques and "tournures
are daily gaining in favor. With this
yle Of waist the fronts are pointed,
and the sides cut out over the hips,
while the backs forms position coat
tails. The waists are smaller than ever,
requiring corsets of the very best make.
Satin, which hitherto has been re-
served exclusively for winter toilets, Is
now extensively used on spring and
summer dresses. These have puffings of
satin down the front. and draperies and
plaitings. The trimmings, when COM
bined with Pompadour foulards and
plain surah, are very light and suitable
for summer wear, and have totally
different effect to that produced when
combined with such goods as velvet
vigogne. Colored faille and brocaded
taffetas are in high favor. With the
new fancy fabrics in use, aprons are
made of satin, either in the color or the
grounding, or in one of the colors of the
design. This style is useful for making
over old dresses
Plain linen and batiste dresses, which
cannot be worn as they are. may be
made over in pompadour designs with
the same materials. Blue, gray, and
straw colored linen dresses may be COM
bined with percale satinettes, and the
old-fashioned waists replaced by the
Watteau casaque. The plain skirt has
short train and putting OF the fancy
fabric. The mot important character
istic of the making over of these old
dresses is to so combine the shades that
the new goods do not deaden the effect
of the old. There are so many shades
now in use that this is not difficult
matter to accomplish. Satin inserted
plaitings are very extensively used.
They are placed between the side pieces
of the waist, on the middle CT the
basque. between the breadths of skirts
on the sleeves, and, in fact. on all parts
of the dress. The "soufllet," as this
plating is called, consists OF fan.
shaped plating, arranged in seven plaits
fastened close together on the top and
left loose on the lower part.
In the outer garments in wear Mt
present, q style has been brought out
which was all the rage six or seven
years ago. 1t is kind of MacFarlane
garment, with the addition of varied
trimmings. The double pelerine has
large opening for the arm to pass
through. The lower part of the gar
ment is plated. This small cloak is
| of English cheviot on wooden reps, and
Is used for shopping purposes and demi-
toilets. 1t must always be of some
| fancy goods. and Is often lined with red
surah. The collar Is sometimes made
| to match, and Is sometimes of velvet
in the color of the garment. The
"etrangere clock is of satin, lined
with heliotrope colored satin. The
seam Is cut up in the center of the back.
The seam o. the sleeve passes over the
shoulder and terminates on line with
the seam under the arm. A piece is
cut out to form the sleeve. The trim
ming consists of bonde plaitings and
jet fringe. On the sleeves are satin rib
bon bows. The manteau Colibri" is
of black sicilienne. 1t consists of two
pieces Joined in the back seams. The
fronts close TO the waist. from which
point they are taken back and Joined
under a black satin bow, with passe-
menterie cords and tassels. The gar
ment is trimmed with ruched lace and
beads.
Toilets for halfmourning wear are
made combining black and gray faille.
| The pulled apron is generally of plain
black faille, while the draperies are of
the grayish silk. The gray train il mar
row. The waist is OF black faille and
| the vest of gray. The black sleeves
have gray cuffs. Any moruning dress
made of fall or foulard may be ar
| ranged in this matter.
A toilet for deep mourning may be of
epingline and English Grape. The skirt
Is trimmed with deep, plated founce,
| over which is a band OF Grape. The
front ofthe tunique Is divided into two
parts. One oil these forms the apron and
crosses a second piece, which is smaller
and forms panel on the left side The
tunique is trimmed witha band of Grape.
On the side of the apron Is large Grape
bow, with falling loops. In the back
is puff trimmed with Grape. The
cachemire jacket is trimmed on either
side in front With q broad bias Grape
band, and cording of the same borders
the basque and pockets, On the back of
the basque Is an inserted Grape plating.
The turned-downo collar IL OF Grape.
The long sleeves are trimmed with two
bias bands and a p aiting of crane. The
hat matching the suit Is small capote
covered with English Grape and trimmed
around the crown with a Grape braid.
The Grape veil, thrown over he back of
the bonnets, Is not long.
Baby dresses are trimmed more than
ever with embroideries. The drawers
have deep trimming Of embroidery /;
the petticoats have four fiounces, and
the deep worked collars are TO be seen
on all dresses. English dresses are
worn by children up to their twelfth
year. with draperies and scarfs, which
seem TO divide the dress into two parts,
one forming the skirt and the other a
| lOOap- fitting tuninue For thaea droaaas