Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-04-01

SukaSeu In weaving tneSe must be like FAIRIES
| nngers; and. indeed, they are heretitarily
| adapted TO the work Even France canno,
compete with Malta In the production OF mitts
OF such delicate shades OF color aud exquisite
OF course they are not intended for outdoor
wear, out for the houSe-for hands that are like
III iilies, that toll not neither spin. such hands
as poets talk about putting on fevered brows,
ye. which would inevitably roughen and grow
req II they had to do duty In a sick room.
Tue cost OF the finest OF these Maltese mitts Is
from seven to nine dollars per pair, but there
are Chantiliy mtts on exhibition al A. T. Stew
arts which cost twenty -four dollars per pair
as ann. the average range is like the Maltese
from seven To nine dollars The tints are so
deIcate that they look white until you put
whlte beside them. ivory white. Then you see
mat There are faint times OF flesh color. or
pearl or canary. OF pink. and the like. The
Chantilly lace mitts are black The filmy veil
o. the Maltese upon a white and ieweled hand
~ mne pfoportlons must. however, be some
l. does not make much difference what seople
nave VINO wear Thread" gloves, but In the In
s .,r OF economy one may be permitted 20 ask
why they are all made so long that they re,cn
hall way up the arm and are a nuisance under
the sleeve? Thread gloves are not dress
gloves they are not needed with short sleeves.
put aiwaSS with long Ones with the sleeves To
Ine WrlSt, which accompany travelling dresses
and are feature or the spring walking dress.
LOT they mt very close and leave no room for a
Gun, much less five or six inches of unnecessary
ana dlSreputab1e glove. 1t is TO be hoped there
fore, that when the new thread gloves and mitts
make their appearance (they have not done Il
AT thlS present writing) that they will at least
oe graded In length and not turned out all alike,
cable.
kByBER CLOTH HASpKERcHfEf pREssss.
Inere was an Idea In the ''bandanna" dresses
or last year which has been turned TO account
ana reappears this year in much finer and more
aIITacilve form Dress patterns are imported
In khyber cloth "a line, soft. close buntinp1
when consists OF twelve large handkerchiefs
surrounded by broad douele or treble cluster
ha
gether makes stripes for the front and two more
are draped at the back the rest are employed
as n0uncing for the walking skirt and as border
Tor the basque, cuffs and collars.
;, Inc PLAIN shades OF the body part OF the
hanukerch1efS are lovely pale blue olive garnet
and wood color. The borders are i'm good taste
also; Tor example, on the blue the border is
composed OF clustered cords of black and white.
hhyber cloth is the rage this season. and in the
edeainy white does not at all differ from the ga
ZenneD OF last year. except that it now comes In
dress patterns and is accompanied by a border
and bands for trimming in Persian colorfngs.
tine, he D1aaer Is used 1or LOUNGES, the bands as
wise strips or panels. They may be made up
also similar to the bounced barages of twenty
I'VE ,,,,t years ago that Is without overskirt and
with series OF gathered fiounces with heading
between, and the skirt put On a band attached
10 surplice waist. The cloth itself is forty
eight Inches wide, and an exceedingly tine soft.
dellcate and beautiful material In its best quall-
ties. f
A peculiar application of Khyber cloth has
With foulard cambria (undressed.l OF the cot
ton which forms the underdresS there is fifteen
yards, and OF the overdreSS or polonaise. eight
OF nine. The ground of the cambria is turkey
red, but it is well covered with fine Hover frurcs
In olive, blue. black, gold and white the lines
being very delicately drawn. The wool part is
owe IN color, and the design for the dress
shows the polonaise open In front and drawn
away to form long close paniered drapery az
the sides and simply draped back. The waist is
neted 10 ana me open square at the neck shows
dress, including the skirt is entirely OF the cot
ton, and shows red ia front and round the hot
tom. The color IS the old-fashioned turkey red
and perfectly fast.
COTTON sAT1NE.
This material is certainly one OF the triumnhs
OF COTTON manufacture to-day. No satin is finer
Ing. III 1t was three dollars per yard instead OF
fifty cents, it would be considered beautiful be-
yond compare. Certainly 1t Is preferable, SO far
as actual appearance goes, to the satin" fou-
lards, which are announced as a feature OF the
season, but which are too glossy. as well As
OPAQUE. 10 be becoming: OF course, cotton Saline
is Opaque also, but 1t holds light and shadow
better than the shining satin foulards, whose
surface Is repellant, and the cotton texture is
really softer than the satin, which has stiff
ness out OF harmony with its Arcadian designs
ana al1reSco character. Satin is being run into
the ground. There are straw or bradS and
satlu as trimming, or In combination is almost
universal. This is unfortunate. because satin is
not becoming unless treated by an artist-no
fabric can be that has a perfectly smoo h glossy
surface-and It viii only take a little while to
Slcken ladies' OF it, as they have been before uu-
III they refuse to look at it entertain it I'm any
shape or form whatever; and the benefit of a
rich ana beautiful fabric is lost because IL has
been made too common and universal. IL will
be remembered how difficult IT was to bring
satin TO the front few years ago: how man4
encrtS were made, and failed because the preju-
dice In the minds OF many ladies was so stronr
against II. This Will hardly be believed In the
lac OF the present furore for satin and SATIN
finished goods.
SATIN ARMURE AND SATIN DE LYON.
An unfatling evidence Of the decline in pras-
ige OF any rich fabric is the reproduction of the
same effects In common materials, and 1t Is
pretty certain therefore that the DAYS of satin
are numbered. Already a more DISTINGUISHED
place has been taken by Satn-arinure and satin
de Lyons, very soft richly finished fabrics less
rejecting lights and shadows, and having a
slight Twill OF figure, which gives character TO
tne surface; Plain satin, particularly white
satin, should never be allowed TO come next the
skim only the most perfect beauty in the tex
ture and coloring OF the skin can stand il, for
every Thing glanceS Off from It, and il holds I'D
eaefy 6elect 10 clear view like mirror per-
tectlY plain surface is now not tolerated In any
oraS materials except wool. and these are com
bined with figured Stuffs. or contrastea with
poIdeIs. Even plain white muslin has given
way TO striped dotted and figured Suisse and TO
What are called Grape" effects In null. The
pihn SIX musnS are being rapidly transformed
by embroidery. which is executed in cOlOrad
Siihs III panuS ana borders for ruifiing.
EMBROIDERY.
The light wood shades used this spring are
very effective for throwing up the colorS of en-
bfoidery, and many clever needle women among
those not obliged to work for daily bread are
engaged in transferring the sweetness of uea-
dow and forest TO the fine soft materials which
VIII constitute the groundwork OF charming
costumes Tor the present season upon which we
are entering. There is no end to the poSSibili-
ties or embroidery now that light has come to
the aid OF color, and multiplieS all its beauties
10y the action OF the myriads OF tiny mirrors
contained In minute beads OF glass Novel eff
fectS are constantly making their appearance
and there seems to be no limit to the aopllca-
uon OF the idea or the variety of the designs.
Rice" beads, White but semi transparent are
recent development and are used In connec-
ton with an embroidery executed In fine braid
upon very light and fine cloth wraps in milk
and plth OF wood shades. The delicacy and
beauty or these exquisite garments il is difficult
10 realize from description. House dresses too
and wrappers afford an almost unbounded field
for this sort OF decoration. as the materials en-
ployed are particularly suited TO the long. sim
PIE, graceful style OF indoor dress and the Sc
clusOn to which they are devoted admits OF the
exhibition OF every pretty fancy.
In what may be called iewelled embroidery
nothing finer than the Introduction OF seed
pearls has ever been attained, although the
effects OF color In the iredeScent beads are of
course much more brilliant and startling. But
quite recently Oriental luxury has been Fivalled
III the lncrustation upon ruch medallions OF
cameo pearls set In punctured band OF gold
Wnlcn ADMITS OF attaching the cameo firmly TO
the medallion. These medallionS form the GEN.
flnl fIrrr1r. n tRnn k.a~ No.