The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1880-01-14
farm aud 6ardem.
Fruit Planting.-Continued.

Fruit Planting.-Continue
Having now passed in review the diff
ferent fruits generally raised in Virginia,
we shall say something on pruning, gath
ering, and keeping them. Before doing
So however we desire to refer to the I'M
portance of setting out such pear trees as
are known to be not much subject to
E'blight, and the necessity of finding out
from the experience of others, what APP
Piles succeed in the neighborhood where
it is designed to set out a new orchard.
Thinking over my experience with pears,
I find that the "Clapps Favorlte bhghts
worse than any other, and while 1T Is
fine. and very handsome pear, its plant
ING should be avoided | have recently
had cut down three, ten year, finely
grown "Clapps Favorites," killed by
cannot be obtained from the books on
Fruit Culture, and must be ascertained
by conversing with those who have had
experience with this fruit, and reading
communications in the journals. As re-
CARDS apples, there are many northern
varieties which are constantly being
planted in Virginia, which are worthless
here Among these, L may mention,
Lady Apple, "Maiden's Blush, and
the very large varieties which are sold
as fall or winter apples, and which ma
ture early in our climate, and fall from
the trees, and rot before cold weather
There are diversities of views as re-
CARDS the time and manner of pruning
fruit trees and grapes. On account Of
our hot suns, our trees and vines do not
bear the close pruning and training prac-
ticed in England, and other cooler eli
mates. Our standard fruit trees, as a rule
should only be allowed to take their nat
ural form, and pruning should only be
used to take out all weak and crowded
branches, and those which reach too near
the ground, avoiding trimming the tree
too high, and exposing the body unne-
cessarily to the sun. Some fruit raisers
prefer the fall, and the open weather in
the winter for pruning, some early spring,
and some just before midsummer The
theory Is that autumn pruning soon after
the fall of the leaf, promotes growth
And that pruning about fortnight be-
fore midsummer promotes fruitfulness
We think the best time, as general rule,
is to prune Uery early in the spring, as
soon as the severity of winter is over
The wound heals then readily, and growth
is not checked Pruning should be avoid
ed after buds swell and the sap is in full
flow, as the loss of sap is injurious, and
sometimes brings on canker which is a
serious disease to the tree. In large or
chards it is difficult to prune early in
spring before the sap begins to flow, un-
less several hands are engaged in it, and
more than one intelligent primer cannot
often be found on a farm. When the
pruning cannot be done then in early
spring, let it be done in the fall and mild
weather in winter. There are some adj
vantages in pruning Just before midsum-
mer, as then the wound heals over rap
idly, and at this time, the balance of
the head, and the branches which re
quire removal, can be we'll Judged Of
But we should not choose this season in
preference, but only where an opportu-
nifty did not occur to prune at other times,
as the flow of sap might be injurious, and
the tree then is generally filled with fruit
and leaves which would make the prun-
ing inconvenient.
Stunted and enfeebled trees will have
their vigor and growth improved by pro
per pruning. The nourishment which is
afforded by the roots to all the branches
and buds will be concentrated on those
left. If then, we head back the tree, and
remove half or less of the branches, we
will find the nourishing sap thrown into
a smaller number of buds, which produce
new and luxuriant branches, and larger
sap vessels.
In our next we will speak in detail OF
pruning the different varieties of fruit
trees. r. p
WHEN the carpet is well beaten, and