Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1880-10-07
Vol. d.XZVl. Whole Nc. l34l. No. ii.
New York Fashions.
FALL. WRAPS.

The influence ofthe dolman is felt through
out the world Of out door garments. True,
there are such things as jackets in existence
and they are fashionable too, but for one of
these, fear to say how many fall wraps are
characterized by the peculiar features of the
dolman. 1t is true likewise that the newer
name of ''visite" is constantly given, but
after all, tis but a name. And thirdly more
over it is true that the dolman or vsite of
to-day, differs materially from what it once
was, but this is so much the better, because
the good points are retained and the objec-
tionable discarded. There is an elegance in
dolman which is not possible to jacket
and now that certain "Aappiness" (excuse
me for coming a world has given way to
notifications of shape by which it hangs as
| closely to the figure as a jacket, there is
nothing handsomer or more becoming In
view of cold weather, styles are long and if
you ask me for q desirable model, would
say 1.-THE Zerah." A jacket is certainly
more jaunty and one of the most striking
novelties in this line is the Langtry Cas-
aque. Nearly tight fitting, it is slightly
double breasted and has hood which reach
ing to the waist, can be lined with the same
goods as the garment or in contrast. Circu-
Of the newest being fitted to the figure and
with arm holes. But the genuine circular
is not yet thrown aside. If YOU have one
wear it, but do not make up new material in
a shape that is on the wane
STYLES or MAKING.
The Jersey" is startling novelty so
much so that it is as yet doubtful whether il
will be worn by any but few who deligh,
in whatever is conspicuous. This new gar
ment is woven throughout of heavy silk or
wool dyed in fashionable colors such as gar
net, plum, dark blue, etc 1t is intended
to be worn in place Of basque and fitting
like wax, gives especial opportunity for the
show off of fine figure. Reaching high
about the throat, it is finished with ribbing,
and ribbing appears also at the wrists. Now
the very existence Of the Jersey is proof that
costumes close around the hips will remain
i'll vogue are aware of the inauguration
Of round waists with full skirts hanging
partly or entirely plain; styles punched on
the hips are still seen and all the above
ideas are kept separate ntermingled or
modified until one can hardly say what is
fashionable and what is not Then too, We
oby 4
trimmed and untrimmed skirts, so really
there is no end of liberty The Violet,a
costume, tight fighting poonaise reaching
10 the bottom of the skirt at the sides and
looped high in the middle of the back is
combined with a short walking skirt plain in
front and at the sides, and plated full at the
back. Tn" ca~tiha overskirt is arranged
with double apron draped in the middle
and falling in two points, producing the ef-
feet Of paniers and the back drapcd in a
simple and graceful manner. 1t is suitable
for all classes of goods and with the Lila
basque, would be especially adapted to
cloth costume. The Valentino train has
long. pointed apron and panels at the sides
with full, long train at the back.
ACCESSORIES.
Lace is now an important part of woman's
dress, being much more freely used than
formerly. This doubtless is owing TO the
success of Breton and Languedoc and so
manufacturers have this fall introduced some
charming varieties. Puzzled how TO describe
them, have bethought me Of the ilustru-
tons in Lord and Taylor's catalogue which
lies by me. They are beautifully accurate
the white laces portrayed on dark surfaces
with such clearness and delicacy that ii
seems as If they could be handled. Send
postal asking for copy and you will see
not only the illustrations but the new ways
recommend this also, because there is so
much more to be written of than | can men
ton and if | may refer you to a guide which
will inform you on many points have left
untouched It's all the better for both of US.
My conscience is relieved and you are bene-
fitted, particularly as you are put to no eI-
pense.
The other day Mrs. A. f. Stewart wore
costume the jet trimmings upon which
cost 800. This is one among many evi-
dences of the popularity of jet. Fringes
passementerles composed entirely of it or
intermingled with silk are very fashionable,
as well also as the passementerie medallions
that feature Of the day. Trimmings
of material are much used and here the
the styles are in great measure the same
as formerly-plaitings, shirrings or gaug
ings. Kilt plaits are quite wide, but box
plaits quite narrow and knife plaits are
either plain or in shell designs. For cloth
or flannel costumes, rows Of machine stitch
ing much liked and for costumes of all
kinds, cords have unusual prestige, hang
ing or looped in any way that seems tasteful.
Buttons are more fanciful than ever and the
limit as to size is great, since large ones on
suits for street wear are the dimensions of a
trade dollar. And in parting would say,
don't neglect the accessories of your dress"
for as Sam Weller says, "lt's the seasoning
as does it." Lucy CARTER.