The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-05-13
THURSDAY MORNING, MAY ID.

n French cuisine must go slowly. You, by
fast, violent cooking, drive up your chimney
all the delicate flavor. We, by using gentler
methods, preserve them. l never bake meat
or poultry--never, never. That would be sac
rilege. 1 roast with charcoal. I have this ap-
paratus to do it with, and small rooster,
which buy with what you call patent sum-
mer heating apparatus. You see these two
sides of wire? This holds my charcoal-a wall
of hot Goals. l can move it easily nearer or
further from my meat. When the cook wants
to replenish the coal she can carry it for mo-
ment away from the chicken, SO that no dust
can come, then she can put it back. 1t is a
make Shift you think. No; it is in very COM
anon use in France. l never could cook well
without four de campdgne, what you call a
Dutch oven. Although the Oldest of all cook
ing utensils, and in use over the whole world,
American kitchens have it very rarely How
can you concentrate the heat in any other way?
There is no end of dishes whose success de-
ponds upon four de canlpagne. l use many
herbs, and find those can buy here very good
but not in sufficient variety. We use much
more of the leaves of the laurie-bay leaves,
you call him-than in America. One thing l
rance of is the marineing Us that the Eng
hsh wordO No, you say. Well, then the
sleeping of ten or twenty-four hours before
hand in a bath of vinegar-or wine-in which
vegetables have been placed-in order to make
it tender and full of fiavors. Meat is very good
in its own juices, but sometimes for a change
that method is excellent. Oh, sauces? That
would be too long. Your American sauces,
bad copies of the English ones, are abominable.
Paste for the paper on the wall. say. There
is that common sauce of little bntter and
much -four which is horrible. 1 only see it,
for never eat it. When you copy French
sauces, unless you are wise and have prudence,
you make greasy things, and no one ever re-
preached the French cuisine with being greasy
it is against the traditions of our kitchen. 1
give you generalities but, my dear madame,
these generalities are the important things
which must be first acquired. Now here is my
dinner for to-day. 1t is simplicity itself-a
p0t-ou.feu. We will eat the meat afterward.
The p0t-au.feu saw well described in the
Times household columns some months ago.
Now let me tell you again about this meat. l
raise the cover. You will see that there is this
larger piece of meat and other smaller pieces.
The small pieces have been ON the fire with
the vegetables ever since 9o'clock You will
dine with US at $50 o'clock. This larger piece
it is now 330-was put in the pot at 10. 1t
will then cook in the juice of the other meat,
have added to it the flavor of the stock. You
see that my chicken is now being prepared for
roasting. This macaroni was boiled this morn
will be arranged in the four de cdmpdgae an
grdtin. For prinaeur you shall have dish of
green peas, and after that salad of lettuce. 1
will promise you after that some beignets of
apples-and that is all. Now that is all of your
lesson. Come with me up stairs and ] will
play for you that polonaise of Chopin"
Yes, knew quite we'll that with either her
bdttene de cuisine or her piano this French Ia
DIV excelled.