The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1880-03-24

ana around whose walls are the monu-
ments which illustrate all the epochs OF
civilization for two thousand years
| suppose most of your readers know
something of the strange relations which
now exist between the Pope and the Ital-
ian Government The Pope never leaves
his apartments in the Vatican, although
they are Immediately connected with st.
Peters. Not even to officiate in the edi-
fee which bears the name Of the apostle
of whom he regards himself as the hneal
successor. Since the memorable Goth of
September 1870, when, as they say here,
"Italy took Rome, he has confined him
self to his portion of the Vatican, taking
exercise in his own gardens, holding his
receptions and discharging all the duties
of his office within the precincts assigned
to him. His body-guard consisting OF
about one hundred men, remains with him
in the limits where he holds himself a
prisoner, never appearing on the streets
or in any place of public resort, unless
they come in the dress of ordinary citi-
zens, while the Italian police and soldiers
may be seen at all times in the great
square in front of st. Peters, and up to
the very steps which lead into the build
ing occupied by the Pope and his re
tainers.
A Protestant Mission has established
itself beneath his windows for the main
tenance of secular and Sunday Schools,
in which the Bible is made the basis of
all the instruction given to the day and
night classes organized there. Undert the
rule of King Humbert Protestant church
es can now be erected in any part OF
Rome as readily as Roman Catholic
churches can be built in any city of the
United States
I had so often heard of the narrow,
tortuous, and filthy streets of Rome, and
so little o. the new, airy, and spacious
squares of the new city, that l was quite
unprepared to see the beauty cleanliness,
and imposing aspect Of the latter 1t is
true that a large portion of old Rome is
repulsive to sight and sense, but the pro-
gress nf modern Rome is surprising.
Many Of the houses recently built will
compare favorably both in size and at
tractiveness with those of any city in
southern Europe, and great number are
now in process of erection. In the mean
time great changes are taking place which
will improve the sanitary condition of the
whole city, from better drainage, from the
widening Of old streets, and the construc-
tion of solid stone walls along the banks
of the Tiber. The cityis abundantly sup
piled with excellent water, not from the
river, which is still the faUus TS5eris "
of Horace, but from the neighboring
mountains. The oc9ua FeI5ce, about
thirteen miles long begins at the base of
no lhop n+oi, h.
titty-six miles long, constructed by the
Pr@tor @. Martius Rex, l46 years B. c.,
and restored in 1869, brings supply of
water from the Sabine mountains, and is
considered the purest in Rome; while
another aqueduct constructed by NJ.
Agrippa to supply his baths at the Pan
theon, yields daily 100000 cubic feet
| of water, which some prefer to any other
brought into the city.
AS it does not fatigue me to climb and
as | have no experience of the strange
desire, of which some speak, to cast them
selves down from great heights, | not
only assembled to the top of st. Peters,
but climbed the narrow perpendicular
iron ladder by which one reaches the
ball, just beneath the cross, 45O feet from
! the pavement. From that perch one OBJ
tains the finest view of the city, of the
wondrous Campagna, and of the ranges
ofmountains toward the northern horizon.
The day was one of exceeding beauty, and
the atmosphere singularly transparent.
On the left rose Soracte, celebrated by
Horace, OXIDES ut uLtu stet niUe C1ndi1uJjl
Soracte) the summit of which was crowned
in ancient times by a temple Of Apollo.
Then came the Alban and the Sabine
mountains, and beyond these the great
chain OF the Apennines, towering high
above the other ranges, and at this season
Of the year covered with snow; the whole
constituting panorama of indescrbable
beauty.
I believe that each Of you, .Messrs. Edi-
tors, has visited Rome, and you can there
fore well appreciate the interest l felt
IN making an excursion along the Appian
way in visiting the Catacombs of st. .
Calixtus in seeing the Colosseum, first by
day and then by the light Of the full
moon; in inspecting the Pantheon where
repose the remains Of King Victor Eman-
uel, and those Of Raphael, over whose
tomb is the inscription
llle hc est Raphael timuit quo sospte vinci
Rerum magma parens ct morente mori;'
in exploring the Lateran Basilica in