Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-07-01
FASHIONS.
Dress i'm BOStOn-Inf1uenceO Of Edu.
cation Upon Dress-Tea Gowns
All White TOiletteS.
from Our Otcn CORRESPONDENCE


All White TOilettes.
from Our Otrn Correspondent
NEW YORK, June 80.
The early and extreme warmth OF the sum-
meF has bad much to do In determining the
prevalence of many summer fashions, and the
ginghams and the foulards are boon that
must be felt to be appreciated All the more
elaborate finery is expected at least by those
who can afford to make choice; velvet and
damaSSee grenadines because they must be
made over silk, and are therefore always double
and costly, and Surah silks, which are light be-
cause they are close and warm and dressy. and
require the utmost nicely in all the details Of
the toilette.
The ginghams as before remarked, are a boon,
they are SO light and cool, and though the
fdiOuc way OF making them frequently prevents
them from being so useful as they otherwise
would be. because difficult to launder, yet ii
carefully treated they retain their first fresh
ness considerable TIME. and for ordinary morn
ing and country walking wear, are very pleas
ant and more desirable than any other OF the
cotton fabrics.
The objection to the cotton crapes is that
they never look clean, and that they ''crawf' all
over. In silk underwear this Is not ObjectiOna-
BILE, the fineness and the softnesS rendering the
contact agreeable; but Ia a comparatively cheap
dress fabric the crinke and the sensation it
produces assumes new character, and not a
pleasant one, and it is discovered that crepe
must be choice and fine to be desirable.
Next In popularity to the ginghams come the
foulards, not the satin, but the plain printed
foulardS with light ground, well covered and
trimming of the same or lace, There is nothing
new about these foulardS except that the
grounds are better covered than formerly, ana
the designs full OF Japanese and '.bric -a-brac'
suggestions. The colors. too, are mtngling OF
ola blue and olive shades, bronze, pink, Old
gold, or red, the grounds being usually very del
1cately tinted and the high color very sparingly
used In the designs The later fmportations of
tnese foulards are accompanied by a bordering
70 match, and are much newer than anything
else In the way OF design, color, and arrange
ment OF trimming, which is intended to provide
for fnnumerable little TuffieS
The satin fOulards as remarked In previous
letters, are more pronounced, the ground color
is deeper, the floral designs more distinct the
colors higher, and they do not blend nor do the
l1nesfiow into each other with the same grace
as those previously mentioned. In making
them up, combinations are usually effected
with plain satin OF light summer quality and
texture, out the diSunctfveneSS Of color and
pattern is such that medium Of communlca-
fon is needed between them-a sort OF bridge
10 prevent the shock of too sudden collision
between two thoroughly ihdividualtzed fabrics.
This Is erected with black lace, very closely
pleated aid laid III rows Or arranged in alter
nate founces upon the tablier, the back being
gathered straight.
NO ovERsKrRrs
OVerSk1rtS have disappeared entirely; only
fragments OF them are seen In occasional short
aprons, side paniers and the like. The short.
straight skirt, fun at the back, which is Ger,
tainly hot pretty or graceful, Is a reaction from
the 'drapeI1ed' designs Which have been worn
SO long and become SO excessively tiresome.
something ugly positively refreshing and
makes the faces prettier by contrast. There is
nothing so Wear1-Ome as this eternal strain
after brightness" which means nothing and is
comlnon to everythng-use, honesty, suit
ability. unconscious grace, mere tidiness Is bet
ter than eternal prettinesS.
I'd TnanR na Heaven that we have even partly got
the surface again: perhaps we may even be glad
TO see it again for a change; but at present We
have had enough Of 1t, and We feel quite like
q moi fy1rad lyJn
SAID to her unwelcome visitor when she left
and don't hurry back
Talk about fashion being changeable, was
there ever harder work than to get rid OF one
when 1t once obtains "vogue." You might as
well try to dislCdge the moon! In fact it is verg
IKE the moon-it only disappears to reappear
II not complete In halves or quarters which, be.
tore you knew 1t. blossom out into full moon
as before.
But there are other evidences of Improvement
ana gradual advance along the line, and one OF
these is in relation to
BRIDES TROUssEAUx.
An important and saiutary change Is taking
place In the preparation OF brides trousseaux
and one that will have deeper and more last,
Ing erect than might be anticipated from any
matter that belongs to the wardrobe. 1t has
parents to supply the daughters trousseau on
her marriage without any reference to her future
condition In life but simply In accordance with
her own Wishes the vanity of her mother. or
the previous extent and nature of Ter belong
1ngs. The presents were made In the same way
not IN accordance with The future means and
position OF the married couple, but to suit the
style and belongings OF the brides parents SO
that II Is not at all uncommon TO see two people
living on very narrow income, yet actually
ouldened @ N with % fine clothes and ornamental jim,
cracks, for which they have neither space nor
opportunity for their display. The flnefy is laid
away Or worn when something less elaborate
and costly would be much more suitable the
gorgeous pieces OF silver or plated ware find
their way to the duplicate" shop, where they
are exchanged possibly for something tnat is
wanted or sold for half price.
All this Is the height OF folly and very differ
ent from the custom in the best families La Eng
land. There, no matter what the wealth OF the
parents, the brides outfit Is graded by the means
tton as his wife. II he is higher In the social
scale, every effort is made to provide that which
Is suitable for more exalted rank but II, as is
sne case sge her ,f he he Is man
the world, the money that would have been
spent on an expensive outfit is put into useful
ho9senold nous articles or wisely Invested for the
girls benefit.
This method has been strictly followed In
seVefal Well-knoWn families recently where the
eiia aaugnteIs @ nave married young men Of good po-
sitlon out limited income, which must OF neces.
slty govern the style OF their living The trous-
SeauA IN these cases were very moderate. and
cU1slstea r,n OF use1ul and practical rather than
ricn and ornamental articles. Such garments
IN TACT, as could be replaced when nee .ssary
Wi.hout depicting tco fast and too far the huS-
uaIu purse. Inc unapprOpr1ated funds in one
instance furnished all the linen and the china
IoI the new household and in another BOUGHT
Unlted states four-per cent bond the interest
OF Whlch Will at least enable the wife to buy
ner husband Christmas presents without dra ".
Ing upon him for the funds
Many a poor bride has had costly trained
dresses laid away In her trunks, costly knIck-
knacks scattered or packed for which She had
no space, VINO had not dollar she could can
nef own TO give, or to spend, or to keep It is
time such rOiIy was stopped, and more sensi-
Dle course pursued. 1G Is well to provide girls
win good outfit; 1t Is sometimes the ONLY
tnlDg tney ever have In their lives But let If
ne suited 10 their wants in the future az wei "a
Ine present. The wreck OF lives might be saved
Dy this sort OF care, for it furnishes lesson as
wen as provision; and what can be expected
OF young girls who have been taught by precepf
and display? ~ ''--A''
Piles of underclothing are as unnecessary as
very large number or dresses for the former
are easily supplied and renewed and the latter
go out OF fashion and have to be remodelIed
almost before they have been worn
"A very fashionable, but also very sensible
err was asked recently in regard to her CrOus
seau, Whlch her young friends supposed would
oe worth seeing. 81 am not going to have any
trousseau," she said very coolly. ENot going
10 nave any trousseau!" They looked aghasI
NO. Why should /? IhaVe enough of CLONES
ana black silk, and my travelling dress in
which shall be married win be- ali r shaII ra
1yrn<rrw