Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-02-02

named after the famous Mrs Iangtry who Is
native Of the island OF Jersey mot New Jer-
Sey), seems to have solved q great many prob
lens for the English ladies, and been accepted
almost universally, as most convenient and
useful form OF short dress 1t consists of long
woven basque, usually worn with a Killed skirt
mounted with scarf laid in folds; but 1t is
also worn In other forms, and make a dress
which does away entirely with the necessity
for cutting. fitting or making-the Jersey tit
ting perfectly, through the woven elasticity
which adopts itself TO every figure and Simply
covers 1t like an elastic skin. The woollen Jer-
seys have been very popular. but they have
little beauty or elegance, COMPARED with the
woven silk, which are beautiful, and most
charming In appearance upon fine, we'll
rounded form.
None have been seen here as yet except those
imported by and for private individuals. Finely
woven cardigan jackets have been sold as Jer-
Seys, but they do not differ from the ribbed
knitted jackets OF previous winters. except in
lulness OF the rib, and the gradual but steady
improvement In the outlines. The genuine Jer
sey Will doubtless make its appearance with the
spring, though ii is by no means certain of
creating the furore here II did in England. where
there Is popularity great desire To get rid OF
trouble in regard to clothes; where women have
generally less time to spend upon them, iud
figures that show better to advantage In so re-
aliStic dress.
EARLIEST STRING COSTUMES
TIE earliest spring costumes decide the fact,
II aEy doubt or II existed, In regard TO the con-
tnuance of the short dress. They are "a short
and less tied or pulled back than heretofore
which is necessarily simple. The most object
ionable part is the jacket. which makes a pre-
tenoe OF being coat, and is sham all the way
through, good neither for protection nor cover
ing nor comfort. The material is lovely, a iine
sort camel's-halr in olive brown. plum color,
myrtle, gendarme. amethyst and pure m ,uSe,
fawn and drab shade. The trimmings accom-
panies each dress pattern. and consists Of hand
some cashmere, or silk and wool mixture in
small palm-leaf designs, and India colors, or of
embroidered satin vest and cuffs. with satin
enough for the small amount TRIMMING
quired upon the skirt or for making of the col
lar. Young ladies will, 1t is thought avoid the
dark cofors and India mixtures and select
the quaint blues or pale neutral shades with
satin trimmings and Shirred plaStron In
place OF the embroidered vest With such
costumes they Will wear an early English style
OF felt, or straw bonnet, lined with blue Or poppy
red satin, and having strings to match the lin
ing, which shows very little below the brim.
Another style of spring costume is composed of
long redingote, open in front half way, finished
at the neck with turn-down collar. and reyerS
and belted in broadly, after the style of the
..Directoire." The skirt is of no Importance, as
it merely shows little OF the front and an edge
OF bouncing below the coat. With this gar
ment is worn knotted handkerchief of silk or
lace, and wide beaver hat, Or soft felt, the
brim somewhat depressed in the center but
spreading out on both Sides and group or
panache OF feathers mounted In the center
forming the principal part OF the ornamentation.
There Is to be an effort to revive Irish poplin,
but it is hardly likely to be successful. Poplin
Is shiny; 1t Is not silk it is expensive; it will not
clean or dye: all these are objections parLicu-
larry since our native manufacturers are turn
Ing out materials and richer fabrics SO admir-
able IN color and quality, and so moderate In
price,
Low-NECKED DRESSES.
There is surprising reaction against low
necked dresses, and this time IL comes from
abroad, even the toiletteS for balls are made
high, or cut square, and are accompanied by
mixture of lace embroidery and bands OF con-
trasting fabric. Painted dresses are becoming
common,-a satin tabiier often showing a
charming design in mixed grasses and flowers,
in shaded peach and apple blossoms, or the
starry white Towering almond. OF course the
design Is repeated upon some portion of the bod
Dice, but it must be done very judiciously and a
pretty idea is TO mass large bouquet OF real or
artificial blossoms corresponding to those that
are painted upon the folds or gathering of the
train.
Not so deserving of praise is the senseless
fashion of dangling little muf of lace and rib
bon at the side OF the skirt. 1t is perhaps not
more absurd that the affectation of flower
basket. which had no relation to the dress, oc-
cupation or habits OF the wearer and is simply
nuisance, tolerated on account OF the ecldt of
sporting new fashion. But the muff idea is
certainly more inconvenient to the owner for SO
few know what to do with them. Some carry
them-haying them suspended by ribbons
others let them hang as chatalaine and pin
little lace handkerchief inside OF them, the cor
ner Of which just shows at the top. for OF course
they cannot even be put to the use Of dainty
lace pocket.
THE NE" DOMINO, AND MASH.
vt some recent private masked balls a COM
plate trans fol- MI ton seemed to have taken place
II IN the cd thctmaSk, and wide spreading lain
black Domino with its large cape and envelope
Sleeve, which have been the orthodox disguise
for SO L any years. Instead of the plain cotton
fabric the demiIoS now are of silk much more
closely cut, and are accompanied by masks of
white or black lace, and lace falls with tart
ike ends which tie under the chm and envelope
the threat or shoulders. the majority of these
elesrant domlnos are BLACK and the lace is black,
perhaps richly wrought with amber or irGde-
scents beads, but There are most charming
gov rs in blue. straw or rose colored silk al most
covered with White lace, and the rose. or canary
color, and the white lace is discovered to be ex-
uemey becoming to beautiful brunetteS. This
lace mask, and the beauty and coluetry OF the
domino, does away in the minds OF many with
the objection TO masked balls-there is not the
dark, and absolute concealment about it, which
attaches to the old Italian forms. and therefore
not the suspicion or opportunity for wrong.
BRIDAL Wells FOR WIDOWS.
Another innovation is a bridal veil for ladies'
contracting second marriages. Heretofore the
long veil has been monopoliZed by maiden
brides, as well as the wreath. and the orange
blOSSomS-the wreath has been some time since
discarded by fashion so that only the orange
blossoms and the pure white OF the dress re-
main TO distinguish the young bride from one
who has been once widow The dress of the
bride OF second marriage may be as delicate
in color as she chooses. but it should not be
white, and now that it may be covered by the
long pure fold of lace, or tulle the difference
server. The arrangement. however, is in reality
very different from that which would be suita-
Bile for young girl. No flowers are uStd-the
VEIL 1t should be of rich old lace Is laid In classic
folds clasFed with jewels or held with large
pearl-headed pins, and drawn entirely back
from the face. OF course much of the grace of
the arrangement depends upon the taste OF the
Wearer or the dresser but it is often caught
and maSSed upon the back of the train with
the flowers, white roses and jasmine, which 1t
would not be proper to wear upon the head.
The necessity for orange blossoms on the part
OF the young bride becomes greater now that
these are almost the only distinguishing part OF
her attire, and frantic efforts are sometimes
made to secure sufficient supply to serve for
garniture The demand for this purpose has
certainly advanced the price, and Will probably
stimulate production.
CURIOUS CRAZE.
A rather singular craze has taken possession
OF well-to-do women in New York not so much
young ladies as their mamas, married women
between the ages OF thirty and fifty, to pursue
the study of some foreign language. Doubtless
this Is the result Of the universal desire for for
eign travel; the isolation and discomfort which
ladies suffer who lind themselves in Paris or
Berlin without knowing word of the language
spoken; and the hope which every one cheri5hes,
II they have not been abroad, of sometime
going. Whatever the underlying motive, the
consequence has been greatly advantageous to
fmpecuniOuS teachers of French and German,
who, though they may not make fortune, find
themselves suddenly able to cover the cost of
bread and coffee in the morning and table
dhote dinner at night In one Of the famous Ital-
ian or French restaurants