New-York tribune., 1880-06-27

approaches the base Of the Jura range which al
ready looms up In the distance ike line Of blue
II Is q peasont three hours afternoon ride down to
Besaucon, which Is reached at haltpast D, IN
time for dinner. The town, which was known as
Vesontio in Cmsar's dav, and which still abounds
in Roman relics lies in deep valley and Is reached
from the depot in omnlbuses by steep downhill
road, Meats and drawbrldges and gates must be
country into the 3. pOpulOus city streets
Looking mp almost any ;, street IN Bes-
an9On one sees IN the distance nSSoIht noun snG
heavy guns en- barbette frowninR down upon MN.
The nearer we come to the frontier the heavier are
the cannon and the more suggestive are all the sur
roundings of villanous saltpetre. For we are now
not far from the Rhine Another days journey WIN
bring us there, Leaving Besaneon a1teT preaKlast,
saw Quarter before ten, we cross the SWISS Dorder
about nOOD but not until after we have traversed
wonderful bit of mountain railway, skirting the
course of tine river Doubz and passing % LnrouRn an
average of two tunnels to the mile. We begin to
see fir groves and chalets and Swiss peasSnts win
knee-breeches and stout walking-sticks and broad
brimmed hats with feather in the she, and the
general air Of Tyrolese warblers. Yes, this ID in
deed the Switzerland reproduced go often IN PIC
lures, IN books, and on the mimic stage
CUSTOMS CEREMONIES AT THE SWISS FRONTIER
At Dele we cross the border change cars, and for
the frst time In Europe find passenger cars not di-
yided into compartments, but modelled like our
own in America As you cross the platform Swiss
functionary not in uniform, steps up. and speaking
passes on to tho next. Then the baggage has to DO
examined by the customs authorities But in this
matter Swiss officials arc verv polite and not ex-
acting. Their principal concern appears to be to
ascertain whether you are q drummer for any
French dry goods notion house. and if so whether
you are smuggling in any samples.
Scarcely has PoTentray, the first station beyond
the frontier, been passed when mountains covered
with snow half way down to their base begin to
appear standing ont in startling wintry contrast to
the buttercup and daisy-dotted fields which line the
railroad track. Iventure to say that no American
ever caught his first glimpse OF this kind OF Swiss
scenery without an exclamation of delight, or
quiekened beating of the heart. And yet some
heartless Englishman has remarked that Switzer-
land is only the kitchen garden in which Europe
grows her crop of hOtekeepers. Did you ever YIslt
a city the Continent where there was not at least
one hotel kept by q Swissf
Five hours ride from the frontier brings us to
dinner at Basle on the Rhine, which at this point
is wide, rapid and navigable. The city il closely
built both shores, the walls of the buildings, In
many instances, rising straight up from the Ieyels
Of the current. Seated In comfortable little din
ing-room, at the White Cross Hotel the windows OF
which look directly out upon the river, one may
find abundant food for thought In watching the
waters of this mighty torrent rushing silently and
swiftly by under bridges and meath the glimmer OF
countless gas lights Just they rushed by centuries
ago when primeval forests lined their banks. How
often has this current borne along the shouts OF
triumphant warriors, or In turn been crlmsoned
with the blood of retreatlnR foe What Werd leg
ends could not these hurrying eddes tell OF every
spot they have passed OH their way downward from
their sources; what vague suggestions do they
bear of the wild mountain passes through winch
their course must vet lead them 'ere they disap-
pear into the great ocean And 80, amid the sooth-
ing haze of his aferdlnner cigar, the weared voy-
ager hero forgets the fatgues OF hs long Journey,
and amid his reveries thanks his stars that he has
made-once at least-a journey from Rochefort to
the Rhine.