Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-07-31
fountain and the brilliant lighting with tho !.

OF course the toilettes are different from those
formerly demanded Tor hop or grand BALL
| great deal OF latitude Is permitted and IL is
| quite demanded that the dressing for an
| outdoor fete OF this description shall have a
| certain air OF informality. Very elaborate or
conventional costumes would be out OF place.
and.instead OF giving an air OF distinction, would
| convey the impression that the dress was worn
| In the absence Of one more suitable Very long
trains are above all things out of place. and are
not only source OF discomfort TO the wearer
but show lack OF the sense OF fitness which no
amount OF splendor can atone for.
Large hats are feature OF garden party
dresses, though they are not uniformly worn by
any means. but they form a striking addition 10
quaint costume. For example large black
hat with three black plumeS Is worn with
straight black dress and white lace fichu form
ing large collar. The Surplice waist Is broadly
oelted In, and from the belt hangs an old-fash-
Toned bag or reticule which draws I'D with a
string. There are not many artistic or aesthetic
toletteS 10 be seen In Saratoga:the most OF them
are OF the conventional stamp. TO which. for
tunately, this season Fashion gives a certain
amount OF good sense and simplicity.
some or the prettieSt dnSSSeS worn by young
laoleS consisted OF white tHlle skirts in sue
cesSion OF plaitings and gold lace boddlces. A
sklrt OF pale blue satin was accompanied by a
coat OF gold and pale blue brocade with sleeves
OF gold lace, combined with satia and brocade
IN lengthwise pufflngs. An outstanding rufle
OF gold lace finished the throat.
A pretty dress OF thin white wool WIS en-
broidereG across the front in brown cafS-raIIs
ana small shaded gold butterflies, and this was
repeated upon the back which had a double
S n t,o, orspery over the killings. The basque
Was usnt hitting, and band Of embroidery was
oIUugnt 10 point In front and headed the fine
plalt!ngS or the sleeves
another dress OF White wool was most charm
iiiiSiy ana appropriately embroidered with pond
,ii!itS, ana bunch OF these was worn AT the
zen. nuch admired dress was OF ivory sat
49, IL, eSquisltely painted with cyclamen and
uin Intu with plated lace.
Some quaint PInafore over-dreSses were M
me lnuil TIED with gold color. and black rib
eoh oNef-ureSSeS or black gauze trimmed With
gold ana black lace. Quantities OF short white
dresses We're worn with broad satin or Surah
Sashes, and one elegant dress or black satin was
uIapeo WIN hat scarfs of white surah laid In
IoIuo- 4 DIS was walking length and with II was
worn black chip hat trimmed with white null
ara SOFT silk pomponS. Few heavy silks or
saIIhS Were 10 be seen. The majority were light
summer FoulardS lowered, spotted or satin
nhlShed, and Suran silks The latter were con-
Splcuous In several lovely tolettes OF ivory mink
ana primrose trimmed with lace or tuile and
OF course some of the dresses were rather
pizarre One, for example, was OF ivory wool
CIlInIed with an immense bandana plaid In red
anu sellow. Another was of silk checked with
SaIln on very large stripes, the broader and
nghter being the horizontal stripes producing
Inc old "Balmoral" effecy. The bocdica w9S
sttfalgnt, ara Two stripes almost covered IT from
siue 10 sue ana shoulder TO shoulder SO that the
result was striking, Ii not elegant. The colors
were petunia and white. A very good erracG
was produced by combination OF ali the pansy
a
pansy bonnet. -
The sensation of the day, however. upon
Whlch these costumes were shown was achieved
Dy lowered dress with alternating strines and
leg,oImutt0n sleeves. The skirt was straight
gathered slightly in front and shirred at the
a Dack; A large lace collar almost covered the
shoulders and formed jabot in front. The hat
was large and had brim indented deeply In
three different places. The wearer carried a
bag suspended from her belt.
CHARACTERISTIC ToILETTEs
a 6aaI Zoe,
dressing Which deserves no special mention and
winch Is only eXcuSable In the Ignorant. or
s 1a9s VINO are without resources. Hops and
them, and languid young and middle aged
women drag trains over the floor which have
uo1e campaign duty the previous winter, and
unoer these depressing circumstances become
more ourdenSome and more of WEAKNESS than
ever. Doubtless 1t is laudable and praiseworthy
10 endeavor to utilize ones old clothes but the
ract should be admitted that they are old
clOtheS; that they are not suited to the condi-
tlons or the circumstances, and that the wear
ing or them Is measure OF economy. The
cnaIacterlStlcS OF watering place dressing es-
pecially Of dressing at Saratoga. where the ar
moSphere Is so bright and dry and full OF light
ana color. should be freshness QuaintneSs. dell
GaOS [ei , simplicity and originality. To
season which only exists after dark and treason
10 the RADIANT air and pleasant care free life which
i ins ana welcomes us. II Is quite time that
LADIES or real position and Intelligence Should
SET Ine example OF leaving their trains and
Jewels at home when visiting summer resorts
III IL, I1e iatter are valuable, they must be worn at
all times and seasons for fear OF theft and moth
ing more utterly vulgar1Z1ng can be Imagined
IMAM the exhibition In promlscuous asSemblage
OF pupllc village street or bonnetless head
ana ungI0Ved hand adorned with great diamond
ngs ana earrings. It is true that very MANY
do consign their most valuable Jewels and their
Ilchest dresses TO the safe-keeping OF a vault or
place OF beStowal In their own houses and only
take With them to the SemI-publicity of water
Ing place hotels summer wardrobe light and
suited 10 the conditions and circumstances:
put there are Others who find In a Soiourn of a
rev weeks an opportunity not to be neglected OF
ali1bg Their Spiendors, and these are supposed
10 oe representative, which is very far from
Oe1ng the case.
The shops of Saratoga furnish a great many
ouu and quaint thiLgS which are USED as acceS.
SORES TO The toilette, and give a Saratoga
tna'scleT 10 10. Among tine articles In vogue
thlS ST ason are handkerchiefs and small shaYls
OF white pineapple cloth, transparent
SILKY fabric embroidered In gold In Turkish de-
particularly handsome for old ladies over blaek
or gray SILK. The handkerchiefs are used for
Ine neck as trimming for hats are twisted into
caps, and transformed into ties.
The large hats are perhaps the feature which
give the most character to Saratoga dressing.
and surely no such decided effect was ever
Is the coarsest straw the trimming soft null
and lace, with an interior lining on black or
color. The style is not only distinguished and
becoming. but useful. IL is protective and much
better than the old habit OF walking about the
streets under the glare OF hot sun. life
which is spent almost exclusively ous of doors.
as that OF a Saratoga season, requires some spe.
c1al provision OF this kind and this season ft Is
met.
Ladies who leave their jewelry behind them
can easily supply themselves from the exhibits
OF ornaments in rock crystal, cornelean, moss
agate, shell, onyx, and other stones which have
local celebrity. Some very fine specimens OF
rare stones can also be obtained, for which the
prices are not at all eXorbitant
Branches OF large city stores usually try to
work on SuperiluouS stock by SupplementinC
tnelr trade season with Saratoga but sometimes
they display samples OF forthcoming novelties
which are very interesting. Among these are
some beautiful fans OF fat smooth feathers upon
when exquisite painting is executed. These
rlch feather fans with shell sticks will be among
the most elegant OF the incoming styles The
nTsC nave appeared In the form of the square
ny IAN set In gilt frame with long gilt nan
Ole put lhey are also made round and TO close
Old fashioned bags or reticules are not a Sara
toga fashion, but it is only here that have seen
them beautifully ornamented with the owners
monogram painted fn shaded and delicate tints.
but or large size. l observe also crystal amber
buttons with lies and other small insects at
tached to them or embedded In them for the
nrSt time, and new hood, the lining of which
is ornamented with group OF flowers hand.
painted, but most exquisitely, and 1t Is said SO
that they are weather proof.
WHAT THE ARRIVALS WEAR.
Travelling dresses show change which upon