The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1880-03-15
EVENING TOILETS.
Costly and Elegant Material
Now the Rage.
The Present Styles in BonnetS,
Mantles and Opera ClOaks.
NEW YORK. March 10, 1880.

thlng that Is costly ana elegant is calleu
into service. Ata ball lately given un-
der the patronage of Ex-Queen Isabella,
there were ladies with diamond buttons
on the dresses valued at $4,000. One
toilet was of white satin, trimmed with
ornaments made of pearls and diamonds
Brocsdes ana satins were the materials
most favored. All the young ladies wore
short dresses There were many more
coiffures worn of feathers, combined with
diamonds, than of flowers.
Many dresses are even trimmed with
feathers, not in bands, as they have been
heretofore, but in bunches. which are
placed over plaits, bows, and over the
drapings of the different parts of the
toilet Many beads.in all colors were also
10 be seen. Over pink satin dress was
IN apron covered with a pink bead
fringe, and punches of violet in dark
shade. Many habits and Louis XIII
waists were also to be seen. The "Anne
d'Autriche" waist with long points is
most becoming, showing the figure to
the greatest advantage. Waists are
still made without sleeves.
Sometimes scallops of beads fall over
the arm. forming kind of trimming.
Many dresses are trimmed with sat n
aprons embroidered with beads, either
white or reddish brown. The small pan
iers are of broche goods or velvet, round
ing on the lower part of the waist. The
back part of these toilets are generally
made in court mantles, with the trains
falling perfectly plain, without the
slightest putting. Oneo the greltest nov
elites for young ladies is painted batiste.
Flowers, butterflies and birds are the de-
signs. This painting is not done on the
goods BY the yard, but the apron, fichu,
0r draperies are colored. This fashion is
to be all the rage for summer wear Span
ish lace is now made, in addition to
black and white, with these groundings
embroidered with all colored flowers. Tie
lace is made in fichus, scarfs and mantil
LIS.
An elegant white satin and faille toilet
Is made in the following manner: The
skirt is Of white faille. The apron is of
satin, shirred through the middl', form
ing plaits on either side. The lower part
is embroidered with blue flowers and
green leaves. The front Of the waist is
composed of two pieces, and there ar
two side p eces under the arm. The
basque falls over the skirt and the end
il covered with Louis XIII draperv,
which is shirred through the center and
draped up IN the side seams. Placed in
the form Of basque, below the hips,
are two satin revers lined with silk and
and having stiff muslin in between the
silk and the satin. They are broad in
front and narrow toward the back. The
back is princess shape, and laces to be-
low the waist. From this point it falls
in long train, draped in waves. over a
muslin underskirt. The train is com
posed of two breadths joined in the
center.
The muslin skirt is cut like an ordinary
plain skirt, and is covered with the
waved overdress. On the side are two
large inserted satin puffings, which are
Joined to the back seams under a head
ing lined with tlue satin. On tie side
of the apron is an embroidered satin
revers, lined with silk and stiff muslin,
which fails over part Of the pufings in the
lack. The lower part of the train is cut
out in large scallops, with smaller ones
on the large ones. From under these
falls a narrow. blue satin plating.
Around the border of the train is white
plating. The waist is cut open square
in the neck, and trimmed with plated
satin drapery. This is shirred in the
center, and closes on the left shoulder.
Down the front are three rows of en-
broidery. The Louis XIII drapery and
tae revers have the same trimming.
Another toilet is of sulphur-coored
silk.grenadine. The body Of the dress
is Of sulphur-colored faille, over which
the grenadine is sewed. The front is cut
to the lower part Of the waist like vest.
From the second gore the dress is cut
princess shape. The faille apron is cov-
cred with founces, alternating in tulle
and satin. The tulle founces are
trimmed with two rows Of satin ribbon
pnd plated; they are rather deep. The
grenadine founces are scalloped and en-
broidered; they have very little fullness.
The breadth of goods which is on either
side of the apron is bordered with an en-
broidered ruffle.
This piece is cut longer than the faille
skirt, and is draped on the upper part
near the gore. Around the dress is a
plain faille founee, and above, on the
Train, are three erenadine founces.
trimmed with satin ribbon. The waist
is very much open in the back, and
trimmed like fichu, with band of en-
broidered grenadinc, and lace rufle,
which extends down the front quite be-
low the waist, in shell-shaped trimming.
On the inside Of the opening in the neck
is a tulle drapery. The "marquise"
sleeves are trimmed with embroidery and
3 gauze rufiie; on the outside is tulle
trimming.
A dressy fchu may be made of lace
and crepe lis,e. The fichu is cut Of stiff
tulle. On the lower corner is plated
bretonne lace. Around the neck is a
double plating Of lace and crepe lisse,
which starts from the right size, is taken