Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1880-09-09
FOR THE FAIR SEX.

uIeSStS are ludu6 up Oh SuCIb 0I6SSeS 1OI
day wear, with very long trained skirts
for full dress; the medium demi-train
does not appear in the first invoices.
Very rich fabrics that. give the greatest
appearance of warmth are used, such as
the polka-dotted yelyets, brocaded vel
vet with large detached figures, and
plush, with cloth for palmer costumes;
the warmest colors also appear in abun-
dance, especially in the accessories that
form trimmings, though many beautiful
costumes are shown in two tones of the
same color, especially when heliotrope
or other purples are employed. The dull
copper reds are very stylish as an illu-
mination for black; heliotrope and Law
ender are also effectively used with
black. The satin employed for draperies
is very soft, and is called Surah satin,
though its lustrous surface requires close
weaving that conceals the twills that are
the special feature of Surah silks. The
cOrsages of new dresses are made with
as few seams as possible, and are there
fore of the simplest shapes. The short side
forms of the back are used almost with
out exception, though some modistes still
prefer having wo side forms in the way
introduced by Worth several years ago,
Skirts of French dresses are fuller than
they have been made at any time since
short skirts were revived, though they
are not made in the classic shapes popu-
lar here that depend so entirely upon
their fullness that drapery is dispensed
with. On the contrary the first imperta-
tions show a great deal of drapery very
bouffantly arranged, with scarf sashes
that pass around the figure, and give the
fullness of paniers below the hips. In
deed, cash effects are given in many
ways, not only with the gay fabrics of
trimmings, but with whole breadths of
the dress material that are draped quite
straight, or else doubled at the lower
en- without being cut apart, or perhaps
they form one mammoth bow on the
left side and a pointed corner on the
right. The front and side cores are
cinging, and these are still made the
objective points for trimming. For in
stance, shirring, which has now ex-
tended to heavy cloths, will cover the
upper half of the front and side cores.
while below this will be square points
of handkerchiefs, or receding scarfs
opened over plated founces, or perhaps
series of scarfs of satin will be
shirred at intervals across the mont
gore, and pass under brocaded side
breadths that are as fiat as panels, but
which are faced with a contrasting
color of satin, velvet or plush, that
makes itself visible without being too
conspicuous.
The Jersey jacket worn during the
summer has given suggestions for some
of the new features OF cloth and camel's
hair costumes, and in some suits the
jersey webbing, like stocking-net, is
used for the clinging waists sor polo
naises Of such dresses. For instance.
navy blue costume has polonaise
laced behind made of Jersey webbing,
fitted by middle seam in front, and
underarm seams without darts. The
collar and the sash drapery are OF blue
plush lined with light yellow Surah,
while the skirt is blue cloth laid in kilt
pleats. Another costume, entirely of
black has the Jersey polonaise of web
bing, without darts to which is at
tacncd kilt of black camel's hair; q
sash of polka-dotted black satin forms
The bouffant drapery, and conceals the
seam that joins the kilt TO the polonaise
Less conspicuous than these dresses,
which are meant only for very young
ladies and misses, is the Jersey basque,
which is fastened in front, but is based
upon the Jersey idea OF dispensing with
useless seams, and is therefore made
with the French back that has no side
bodies, while the fronts have but one
dart, though there is often narrow
plastron or a slender vest added, which
compels another seam, though conceal
ing it at the same time, and this gives
the fullness required for the bust, which
il usually made by the second dart.
This is handsomely illustrated in black
camel's hair suit that has copper red sat
in with black polka-dots for trimming.
This gay satin forms a narrow vest not
four inches down the front of the black
basque, also q shirred round collar so
deep as to nearly cover the shoulder
A breadth of this satin is draped like
panier sash on the edge of the long
plain basque, which with its few seams
is made to follow every outline of the
figure from the throat down low on the
hips. The sash is shirred to the front
OF the basque, and is fastened on the left
side under a cluster of loops of black
satin ribbon that is copper red on the
wrong side; the sash is spread out
wider across the back. and forms an inn
mel Sc bow, with ends that hang almost
to the edge Of the skirt. This skirt has
the bottom with a camels-hair, on
which is narrow plating of red satin,
and also one OF black; beneath this is q
balayeuse of white muslin embroidered
with red. This whole silk skirt is then
concealed by one long kilE-plaiting OF
black camel'S-hair seWed on few
inches below the belt, so that it will not
be clumsy around the hips, as that would
spoil the fit of the close Jersey basque;
this killing stops just below where the
satin plating borders the foundation
skirt of silk.
Quite different from these suits are
other cloth dresses that are made gay by
combining them with tartans or Madras
plaids of satin Surah. The corsage is a
habit basque of cloth, either olive or
seal brown, with shirred plaid Surah
passed around the neck and down each
ide of the front, and has most boufant
draperies of the plaid Surah arranged in
points like handkerchiefs at the back,
and held by bows of many loops Of green
satin ribbon, with rec on the reverse
side.
For lister in the season, cloth dresses
are combined with striped velvet or
plush, aud there are velvet costumes OF
new and elegant designs. A prune vel
vet suit is embroidered all over with
polka dots of the same shade, and trim
med with shirrec Surah satin scarfs THAT
cross the front and extend down the
sides in panels. The boufant drapery
OF the back is formed by the Surah ar
ranged in sash effects, and bordered
with the velvet. The waists Of such
suits are single-breasted coats of the
velvet, with deep shirred Surah collar,