The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1880-01-17
PARIS FASHIONS.
How New Styles Are introduced. Now
and the Days Of Eugenie. Talk Of
Dresses, Wraps and Millinery.
PARIS, January 8, 1880.

nuoptlOn Vi aHoIHtI WHicH CVhtdSlcu
sharply with it, was something to be
hooked for years ago, but it is not char
acteristic of the fashions Of to-day. Then
the new style came in with a sweeping,
Indifferent dash of spirited grace, which
seemed to say, whether you hate me OF
like me, here 1 amp Not so the present
fashions. They mince along and linger,
as if afraid of the reception they were
Yyoing to receive; they are always coming,
always going-quite unlike the old styles,
which, when they did appear, came to
stay for few weeks at least.
The present mode of ushering in the
fashions is eminently calculated to ben
eft the miiiiners and dressmakers.
When, in days bygoae, one particular
style appeared and was worn for some
time, until the ladies' appeared as though
arrayed in uniform, any tolerably clever
needlewoman could copy it with rea-
sonable degree Of success. Not SO the
present styles. Everything.ancient, Ori-
entail, historical and artistic is eagerly
sought for, and the result is bewilder-
ing medley, which only the deft hand Of
a professional modiste can fashion with
any degree Of artistic grace.
Since Paris lost her Empress there has
been no official center in the city from
which fashions emanate. In no other
city, however, is there such a constant
stream of royal visitors as in this one
great republican city Of Europe. This
is, without doubt, due to several causes,
but chiefly it is owing to the fact that
greater than Eugenie-the Empress Fash
ion-still reigns here. Instead of hav-
ing one prophet, Fashion now has many;
hence the variety Of fo7Rs in which she
is wont to array herself Of late.
Worth supplies many foreign ladies
Nah his elegant costumes, but there is a
large number Of superbly-dressed Paris
ian ladies, who, Of choice, patronize
ether. modistes and there are many of
these who produce the most charming
bonnets and costumes. The New Year
is the season for Paris openings, since it
is the time when wholesale foreign buy
ers frequent the city in search of the
first hints of the modes for the coming
season. Mime. Virot, Laftte, Hahn and
various Others are extremely popular
with those who are in quest of pattern
bonnets and hats; and whoever is so for
tunate as to be permitted to examine
these, enjoys rich treat speak ad-
visedIy, having recently enjoyed it my
self. -.
For present wear, brush and beaver
hats are much adopted, and many of
them appear in the exact shade of the
fur with which they are to be worn. In
many instances the hat, muff and in
croyable cape match. Singapore silk is
used in trimming these hats or any silk
with cashmere effects, while sometimes,
for the brown ones, which are worn with
seal fur, soft brown plush is employed.
Owls heads usually appear at one side,
as the dull yellow-and-brown plumage
corresponds SO well with many furs now
worn. tE#
Black bonnets are still popular, and
the crowns are often solid mass of Jet,
the beads being put on so close together,
the foundation of the bonnet is entirely
,saYered. Again, the crowns are beaded
in patterns, not the floral or LEAKAGE de-
signs employed earlier in the season ,-but
in mosaic or tile patterns. For these
black bonnets beaded plumes, bands and
tips are still in favor, also black jet point
d'esprit lace, which is simply black
Brussels lace with the dots in Jet beads
instead of silk. -....
Another class of bonnets have brims
and crowns Of different material, while
the trimming may consist of one or two
fabrics entirely different from either of
those which constitute the body Of the
bonnet. An artists hand is needed here
to knot, group and arrange the trim
mings gracefully, or the result is patchy
In the extreme. These bopnets are worn
with dresses Of corresponding colors,
often, indeed, the material is similar
For full occasions our elegantes
are adopting white bonnets, the chief ex-
ception being hats composed entirely of
gilt. Nine. Barber, Avenue de POpera,
makes speciality of these. Large white
hats of beaver, plush or felt are edged
with broad gold braid, trimmed with
plush bows, gold buckles and white
ostrich plumes. Evening benDets are Of
white lace, spangled with gold; they
have broad lace strings, which are some
times fastened withs rose upon one
shoulder. .,, ..F . 8-.-l. ~
The gilt bonnets are in the turban or
cspote shape, the crown surrounded with
a band of white feathers spangled and
tipped with gold. Fur sometimes ornar
ments these hats and the strings often
correspond in hue with some portion Of
the costume. s 1aaAgsa9 49,
Colored felts are still ia favor for ordi-
aary purposes, and are trimmed with all
manner Of materials Usually the silk,
in cashmere patterns, or shot silks, are
mingled with velvet or satin Of plain
shade to match the bonnet.
The toilette Of the Queen of Spain,
upon her entrance into Madrid, was Of
cerise velvet and satin. Her bonnet, par
asol and muff were Of white lace. Do |
not smile. In New York, where the sea- |
sons are as sharply defined US The fashions |
once were, such costume might provoke |