Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1880-04-15

..~-HAsHIeNs- F0R W0MHNsu-r-n-
WHIST wen Dressed Ladies ere Expected to
Wear the Coming Season.
DREssY CosTUllEs FOE SPRING.
Dressy costumes for street wear dur
ing the spring and early summer are
made with Q fancifully cut surtout, or
redingote, a. It IL also called, and full
short skirt bordered with heavy thick
ruche, or else cluster of narrow plait-
ings. The idea in such costumes seems
to be that of dispensing with all drapery,
and giving the desired roundness by the
| fullness of the skirt, also by the richness
of the material used in the skirt. The
fancy for Directoire styles has brought
this undraped toilette into fashion, and
it has also contributed the exaggerated
revers collar and pockets which belong
to the Directoire costumes. Brocade is
chosen for the long coat, and either
plain satin, silk of heavy quality, satin
de Lyon, or velvet for the skirt. Black
Directoire suits are very stylish, with
facings of satin, either red, cream color,
or heliotrope, showing ON the coat.
Single-breasted coats have the wide
notched Directoire collar set on, while
those with double breast have it cut as
part Of the coat. The seam at the waist
line, with the pockets set there, is used
to give q short-waisted appearance.
The back Is made of the two middle
forms, and a short side body on each
side beginning in the armhole. Below
oiof M tt,o LEA
and the skirts are lined with colored
twilled silk, or else satin; this gives four
straight hanging pieces of the coat skirt.
Two large buttons of enamel or of
bronze, or else painted pearl, define the
waist in the middle seams of the back,
and under these buttons the waist line
seam begins, as the middle back forms
are the only ones that are continuous.
The skirt has four straight breadths, and
single gored breadth, which is in front.
The width at the bottom is about four
yards. Sometimes Innings, and indeed
weights, are added to these skirts; but
this is superhuous, as most ladies take
great comfort in the slight weight of
these new costumes, and also in the fact
that fifteen yards are now sufficient, when
formerly from twenty to twenty-five were
required. A broad band of brocade will
serve for trimming at the bottom, or,
when economy is the first requisite, the
skirt may be left quite plain; but there
is much prettier effect given when a
wide ruche or cluster of three or four
fine knife plaitings borders the skirt.
A black brocaded satin surtout, lined
with lavender satin, and worn over a
full skirt of plain satin de Lyon, makes
a very rich costume for the street. Dark
green brocade is very handsome faced
with cream or old gold, or else with red
satin, and plating of red satin is then
placed around the foot of the green
skirt by way of illumination. Bead
ed cords, with passementerie spikes
rather than tassels at the end, are draped
around the hips to hang in front or on
the left side. Sometimes beaded fabric
is used for the Drectoire collar, cuffs,
and pocket flaps of plain black satin
coats.
Ladies who object to surtout suits be-
cause they are not used in the house, as
many short dresses now are, have bro
caded skirted coats of medium length,
with plain silk or satin de Lyon skirts
trimmed with brocade like the coat.
Lengthwise trimmings of brocade are
considered most effective, such as an
entire front breadth cut out in forked
tongues at the lower edge, and made to
rest there at the foot upon two or three
fine knife-plaitings, which are also con-
tinued across the side cores, and some
times all around the skirt. A brocaded
panel revers on each side gore, showing
facings of satin its whole length, Is
another design for trimming such skirts;
the front breadth is then wrinkled
slightly, and the back is covered by
two straight breadths shirred in clus-
tiers, or at most very irregularly draped;
for stout ladies two and half or in
deed three full breadths are sometimes
worn, hanging straight and plain in the
back, with very deep shirring on the
tournure. Apron effects, shirred scarfs,
and moderate paniers are, however,
still used by those to whom they are be-
coming, and they will remain popular
during the summer because they are so
well adapted to grenadines, fine bunt-
ings, and other transparent fabrics.
The Tallien over-skirt, open up the left
side, and scarfs that hang in Oriental
style down the left side, where they end
in tassels, are favorite designs for such
drapings.
SPRING BONNETS.
The turbans for spring are either
round hats or bonnets, according to the
presence or absence of strings, and are
worn in French fashion further back on
the head than has been customary here.
A chip or Tuscan braid crown with q
puff of heliotrope satin for the brim is
one of the simple and stylish illustra-
tions of this hat, while still palmer
yet very dressy style has the brim turned
up closely around the crown, plainly
covered with pale gray velvet, some
velvet folds higher up, and two or three
curved ostrich tips nodding outward
and backward from the crown. This
hat is set back on the head, leaving the
profile in relief, and showing the thick
tresses that are now curled on the fore
head; this is far more effective than
when the turban is drawn down over
the forehead almost to the eyebrows. |
Black chip turbans are trimmed with
black grenadine that has velvet polka
dots; q long gold headed pin is thrust |