The Sunday herald. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1866-1887, 1880-12-05
PAINTED CLARA BELLE.
Hcr Actual Experience M tho Hands of
n Professional BcnutiHcr-The New
cat Fashions In Millinery, Hair
Dressing, and Other Fcmtntuftics--
How Much VIII the scaut Bodtccs OF
the Nautch Girls Bc umttNted7

the Nautch Giris ne rmitsted7
Npw YORK, November "a, 1880.
Having read several accounts purporting |
to tell how the writer's had been benutihed by paint
and cosmetics IN professional hands, wondered |
whether II was really fact that woman's face could
I've so dcfy "made up " as to defy detection Thcrc
only way to test the question: and that was to
submit myself personally to treatment. so went to
the foremost "boautylng bazaar =" In the city, the
one about which had heard the most praise, and |
found myself In a small private room seated |
In something like barber's chair before mirror.
with female operator. She began by making me |
take on the waist Of my dress. and then she envoloped
me In . loose muslin wrapper. Next she shsmpoocd |
my hair thoroughly, and that felt cool and good.
Then she dried 1t with SPONGE brushed II up from
my neck and forehead and dressed after the fashion
Of the period, using great deal of sticky bandoline
She went from my hair to my eyes, bathing them
with liquid which probably had be,ladonna in It, for
II enlarged the pupils and impaired briiiancy. The
mort operation was to pull out stray hair here and
there my neck, arma, and shoulders with pair
OF twee,ers. Then she washed my face with pale
rose-co'ored cosmetic which dried rapidly while sc
such rs Is used by actors sho put higher tint my
checks, and some bright rouge on my lips and nos
trils. With brush she blackened my eyebrows,
temples were delicatcy traced with light blue; and,
". s., vs d'Sfa bad rs S%S p s
also invited to buy the various things which tho
| ett,
| my verdict on the result Is simply this: No woman
| can paint without detection. Devoteos OF fashion
may lns, as wo,, abandon m ,he contrary opinion
hardly recognized myself. My face was greatly
changed My eyes shonc, my checks glowcd, and
been there when entered But this, mind you was
in somewhat dlmly- lighted room. where the work
was softened and shaded. Ten minutes afterward
met myself In street mirror, under the full glare OF
anccnday sun. Well, ! was simply disgusied. Tie
painted surface looked no more like human skin than
it did like sole leather; the black around my oyes
like strokes OF charcoal; my lips had tho unnatural
Sswsd ''nr't %y artificial ns ss % With t"s ne s"
repuision. II reminded me Of some eSecrabie portrait
onSht S veil With which co~ereS the
Then went stiaightway home. and scrubbed my face
until every trace Of foreign substance was gonc MY
experience convinced Of tho utter folly VI pant
withoa, showing Exactly whstitl.. Dry powder. and
nightly little of that. Ia all that advise any woman
to put her face. lfnature has not impaired beauty
Of complexion there Is trying to make up the
deficiency by ar.ice. II s far better to turn in
genuty toward wearing our hair bccoiningy, for in
that direction great deal Of comelness may he COM
@ G r, @ ei N wm 1 wsy You unM a.s s o
icc OF all outward Indications Of flesh and
blood Muchcnm be done, however, In theway Of hair
dressing and millinery to improve any woman head.
Fashion has decrced the revival OF the little Fanchon
bonnet for theatres operas. receptions, and even
street wear. Little bonnets proving as dificult
to dspace large coirurcs and full hair dressing,
The fact Is 1t takes great deal OF taste. graceful
carriage and picturesque pose of the head to make
large bonnet or hat becoming. ON the other hand,
woman must have well formed head, with toler.
ably abundant chevaurc. to make severely close and
classic style Of hair dressing toerable Very
TAT, thn-haired wonen rs well as angular ones, must
wear their hair in an imposing style to look WE'LL
The fat woman must have putfs a bandeau crown
braid top of her head, while the thin must
sort to crinps. waves curs and an abundant, loosely
well understands the use OF fluffy hair to a thin
woman. In none of her roles does she her hair
closely dressed In tho style now demanded by some
arlers of fashion, Happily, the latitude al present
allowed In matters OF dress extends to the head. Mo-
body need be afraid TO dress the hair high full, II
snc cofure is more becoming to her than the more
Il lately introduced classic styles. II is said that the
a revival Of large bonnots and that then the furry
felt beaver, and plush hats and bonnets of large size
y will he about the only ones Iiscd IL this comes Ia
+ pass Heaven help us to sse the stage when 20 tC
the theatre. Thus far such spreading head gear |,
:, confined to young girls exceptn tho Of those
10 who grab at everything that is and out
= landisi. The small close bonnes look warm and
= comfortable. Notable among them tho red ones,
Of which there great many, and, provided the
shade he dark enough, they arc becoming to almost
face. Tho prettiest are made Of plush with thu
color, the strings being also plush, frinred at the
edges Other red ones are composed entirely OF plush
ID Furs are fashionable, of courso, but they are moi
sold 80 largely US they were last winter, account
OF tho extensive use Of plush and velvet In cold
ia weather costumes. Indeed. there was time
when women sat down with more gingerly circum-
specton. II is common to see row OF them jus
balancing OH the edge OF a hOrse-car seat enduring
the discomfort Of unrest and the fear Of capsIzng, al
for the sake Of not pressing down the nap Of veve
robe by Stttlng ne1vlly Oh IL. sui, HevereS
weather we viii continue to wear seaiskin the pre-
I'd ferre fur OF n who can afford It, either trim
I'd ming for rich 'acame cloak or dolman or for thu
with muirs this season. Instead Of the bOas lonI
OF worn. Among the imported wraps and costun,e
I'd fur is much more frequently than those mad
ts here. Velvet and fur are, In fact the chosen ma
tcrias OF the Parisans' garments this Their
yard doep across the 'front.' and In bands tho bac
th draperies, while tho collar, cuffs and pockets ar
on also OF fur match. Other foreign dresses of ma
-, room and Napoleon blue satin, Of rich and heav
quality, have two bands Of fur around tho skirt wh
70 tho poonass is also heavily fur trimmed The rega
character Of such costumes Is highly becoming +
satuesque women, and equally out OF place diminu
Al tive figures more aaesniy .a garb than dress
lned. But TO dart from such heavy apparel
y. thing gossamery let write about Nautcl- girls
jackets. To dress after the fashion set by popu
lar actress has long been custom Of novetylov
h. ing women. Tho costumes Of tho stage usual
W. 1t Is not surprising that they should capture Il,
- admiration OF the sI. Nilsson, the singer, set oi
py because she looked for anything In such
rt garment Fanny Davenpots gorgeous apparel. dur
mt Ing the recent run Of "An American Girl. " at til
cs Fifth Avonuo Theatre, extensively copied.
~ TO do this arms and bOsOms rather fully un
covered. Bernsardt's case is no exception. Thoug
she suffers social ostracls her clothes being i'm
nd tated and female bOies-whether presentablc Ill
- Fanny's or unpresentable like sarah's-ars beIn
~ speaking now it should be mnderstood, of ti,o.s hui
IN teres Of fashion who are blown hher and thlther
Dw exhibited on our stage q fashion which Davenpo
could not follow, because she ia too nssy nor Berr
ne hardt, because she is too bony. The hve Hind,
actresses who have come 10 appear at Days and WI
from the theatre wear their native costumes. The,
at consist OF short waist jacket OF Ratin covern
to the and shoulders hut reaching only about trc,
quarters over the breast each side, and leaving
is- strip OF skin bare six Inches wide from neck to elt
Ids n pair Of loose satin trousers coming down to II
de bangles. 1t is manifest that Davenport could ~
wear such suit very well, because OF TOO much OF Il
u. maternal sort of fnllness and that IndOo Jacket
u Bernhard would disclose hcr lean ribs too planl
But these girls from India have Just enough flesh to
os she is wife. Girls become women very young whe
J. w. she came from. They are Nantch dancers, pant
'e mnists and siagers, and to put them on New Yo
M stage Is about the most audaoious risk taken
air any manager. Some OF our actresses expose the
ed naked backs low as the belt line. but soc Il
ho fronts Of l,are female bodies down to that poi
RS, Is than American audiences have been accu
be toned to. The question is pertinent, how much W
Daly' Is fashionable theatre, and probably so,
he best society w 60 70 nee the Saniel girls. II
me Jackets off the stageY An this matter of usag
ier and l really wonin't be surprised at anything
Jackets, following the debut Of these Fast Indian a
hs t'sses. with some degree Of confidence.
IN; '.ol, you cant expect American women to be
signer to whom broached the subject, ''but IN t.
as you what II do, and J. II bet 1t viii take like wildar
IN III put into tis market a modified Nautch JACKIE
". which shall merely simulate exposure That Is,
the win make Jacket Just like the original, which II
ICES waist all the way rOund-between the belt and I
md bottom OF the much albrc vest: hut I'm pace
IN the exposed surface will put IN delicate colored sl
for That will suggestive don YOU se and AT the s,r
time decent. The style VIII have run, he assure
IL; for fashionable delight In gambolng along very clO
III to the safe side between modesty and iminodesi
d. but II woman fail 10 accept II for themselves
liar Will adapt II 10 little girls, In whom guile
Ia suspected, aud for whom II win really lie becoming
Inns ua,nn,as presume on tho liberty aecori,a
the chil,ihood have dIfculty in perruaIug so,ue
rhe INV customers that II is udslIenie for their ounr
Of daughtars Of eight or ten ara peng TOO ala "a, .,
ms their legs aoye their kuees THE girls to t.r raj
Nr. usually bep hard for longer skIrs believe mar
est eIrI of si1 Years even bi feels sense Of
In exposing her legs; and isn't 1t wrong To oitTa
rny that feeliDgY think 30; Int IN only dressak,
" and can't undertake 10 reform my patrons ~
Lee shall go f0r the Hauteh Jackets and VIII begin by ma