Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1880-06-29
Correspondence Central Presbyterian ]
Letter from Rev. DIR. HOge.
BEIRUT, May 1st, 1Ss

Correspondence Central Presbyterian
Letter from Rev. DR.. HOge.
BEIRUT, May 1st, 1880.
Messrs. Editors,-If in my last letter
I omitted to tell you of our visit to Cana
of Galilee and Nazareth, I cannot now
afford the time to give you any account
of our stay at these memorable places.
THROUGH PHENICIA.
From Nazareth we struck directly
across the country that we might 60 to
Beirut through Phenicia. along what
was once the great route for the armies
of Egypt when they advanced to their
northern conquests, and of the hosts of
Assyria, Persia, and Greece on their
southern predatory excursions. was
exceedingly anxious to see something of
Phoenicia, whose inhabitants excelled
all others of antiquity in enterprise, and
whose maritime expeditions extended
not only to India and Africa. but to the
shores of Britain and of Northern Eu.
rope, and whose narrow territory is now
strewed with ruins which testify to the.
wealth and magnificence OF their an
eient cities.
It was with q sensation of relief that
we left the dry and desolate hills of Pal-
estine and crossed the high, sandy ridge
on the western border, from the top of
which we saw the Mediterranean once
more, and then turning southward,
cantered along the smooth beach against
which spendid surf was breaking, un-
til we reached Haifa, where we found
ception. The Kishop, ''that ancient
| ri VOL ~ 10 oroccod hnfaro pnoohirn a fo
and the plain beyond its southern bank
is made attractive by long line of
feathery palms. One of our company
quoted from Bishop Heber's missionary
hymn,
From many an ancient river.
From many palmy plain,"
and remarked that here by a singular
coincidence, we had the two together,
"the ancient river' and "the palmy
plain" in immediate contact:
MT. CARMEL.
It was still so early in the afternoon
when we arrived at Haifa that we had
time to ascend Mt. Carmel, at whose
base the town is planted. The road
WHICH leads to the summit Is so steep
and rocky, that we dismounted and led
our horses to the top, but we were re-
paid for our toll by the glorious prospect
WHICH the western extremity of the
mountain commands. Few things are
more refreshing than to look down upon
the sea from a great height, especially
when that sea is the Mediterranean all
of whose shores seem to present every
combination of natural beauty which
curving bays, and bold headlands, and
shining BEACHES Gan afford. Mt. Carmel
pushes far out into the sea, the white
surf at the base forming a silver fringe
to the dark foundations of the mountain
which rises SO abruptly out of the water
to its magnificent height. It is not the
western end, however, but the eastern
extremity of the mountain which is the
repIted place of the sacrifice of Elijah
and bis victory oyer the priests of Raal.
From thence one has charming view
of the hills of Nazareth, of Mt. Tabor,
and of the little and great Hermon, and,
of course. Jezreel is full in sight.-Jezreel
to which the prophet ran before the
chario of King Ahab when the heavens
were black WITH CLOUDS end wind at the
breaking up of the great drought. One
"exeellenoy of Carmep is its "dOwery
top" At this season of the year the
crest Of the mountain is all aglow with
flowers; nor do they constitute its only
beauty, for the ridge is clothed with
pines, wild almonds, oaks, and pear
trees.
From Haifa we rode along the hard
sea beach. famed by the fresh wind, to
ACRE
the ftolsmais Of Acts xxi: 7. and the
st. Jean d. Acre, Of th3 Anight OF st.
John. This town has figured greatly in
naval annals 1t was the chief port aud
landing places of the Crusaders. 1t was
bonn barded by Napoleon and would have
been captured by him but for the gallant
resistance of Sir Sidney Smith with a
han4fi.l af English sailors. 1t was at
tackled again by the fleets of Admiral
| were the principal means of the expul-
sion of Ibraham Pas ha from Syria and
of the restoration of the country to Tur-
| kish rule. We rode through the gate of
| the east wall into the town, apa inspec-
\ ted the market place, the mosque, and
| the citadel, which was swarming with
| soldiers. The people had an unfriendly
| look, and seemed to resent our riding a
bout in this way to crafty onr curiosity
in this good Moslem community. Not
liking our welcome, we did not remain
! long, but hastened forward to our noon
day resting place, which was so charm
ing that I must give you little account
oft. After passing the chateau of Alb
dallah Rasha and the ruins of one of the
castles of the Crusaders, we halted at an
| orange grove of vast extent, on one side
of which was the longest and finest belt
of cypress trees ever saw. They were
thick enough to afford dense and most
grateful shade. They had been planted
on an elevated ridge of earth (artificiaI)
several hundred yards long and the
ridge being covered with grass as well as
with shade, we spread our carpets there,
and as we partook of our noon day meal
we experienced to the full the charm of
this out door and tent life lit is long
time now since we entered house,
the air redolent with the fragrance of
orange blossoms, and the grove itself
filled with singing birds of gayest plu
mage On the ground lay great piles of
oranges Just behind us was the splen-
did remains of Roman aqueduct, nine
ty arches of which were still standing.
and along the narrow road long lines of
slow paced camels were nOiselessly
swinging along, bearing their great
packages of produce or merchandise
such as in other countries would be sent
by steamer or by rail
Was not this a nice spot for lunch
and siesta?
On Saturday night of this week our
tents were pitched near
ACHzIB
where we were to spend the Sabbath,
and as, it may be, no one ever encamp-
ed before in that strange, wild spot, ]
may as well tell you something of that
place also. Our dragoman found little
flat, sheltered by hill on one side, and
skirted by palms on the other, about
fifty yards from the sea, where he erect.
ed our tents. Between our tents and
the water was narrow sloping beach
covered, not with shells, but pebbles
the smoothest and most beautiful 1 evel
: saw. All night long I could hear the
sea rasping this gravel, with a strange
swishing sound, varied by the suller
, plunge of the breakers as they rolled in
and fell heavily on the shore. We sal
together that night outside the tents
watching the effect of the moonlight
through the solemn and stately palms
talking of country, church, and home
and gratefully anticipating the rest o
the Sabbath on this lonely shore.
Sunday was day of novel experien.
ces to us, as it was the first time anv O