Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-03-01
iregularly. rather than festooned on both sides

are In demand for spring costumes. and the
lighter, the nearer to white, the more elegant
they are. Ivory camelS hair cloth Is made into
a skirt with mounttngs OF brocaded stun strfoeti
In red gold. and blue, upon an olive ground. THIS
brocade forms the jacket, which hts close to the
ngure, mas collar; pocket and cuffs of the same,
tons, which are Of iredeScent pearl or course
popular costumes Will be made OF dark mate
or gensdarme blue, but the combinations are
always Indian or Persian mixtures and they are
used very much as last season. as bands. BOOK
ets vests, scarfs, diagonal folds. half cuffs half
pockets, collars and the like. Detailed deScrip-
ton is useless Success depends upon taste aud
experience There is this difference. however
between wool and cotton costume materials
that whereas the body Of the wooden costume is
plain and the material for trimming figured the
new dress cottons are all figured and represent
expensive brocaded fabrics in pattern as well as
ton grapes. cr1nkled almost transparent, cot
ton fabric, figured in colors upon light and dark
gro s no,; out principally dark There is also
ton, printed In delicate colors upon light tinted
ground and exactly adapted for making up into
0alnty summer costumes, with white lace and
rlnoons ior garden parties and such. II is COM
paIatlVely expensive, though, IS cents per yard,
ana ltS appearance after passing through the
nands OF the ordinary laundress is problematical,
Ior II colors would stand such a test. texture
might not. The fine undreSSed cottons with
tiny, slender sprays OF leaves and blossoms, tied
loosely together upon pale buff ivory whira
and tinted i grounds are very pretty and in best
ch1euse without fear. The patterns of the cot
ton fatileS are very new and pretty. They show
minute horn shaped vases, from which springs
arrow or miniature Japanese fan tied with
ribbon. Shades of olive, brown, mastic, gems
darme blue and the new orange red, are freely
art decoration applied to cotton dress manufac-
lures with great success.
Brown sateens and .'monire" cloths reappear
in very much the same designs and coloring of
last year, but the Madiar ginghams are In
charming blue and white checks, very suitable
Tor the wear OF children and young ladies' and
there is novelty in Chambery striped cotton
when is striking and considered by some very
stylish, though the brown stripes on the I'M
bleached white Is more suggestive of bath towels
than ANYTHING else. 1t is, however, to be used
self; and, when cut on the bias and employed
as trimming for a ''f1Sh-Wifeu tunlc it NAV
seem to be quite part Of the natural order Of
things.
BEADS AND EMBRoIDERIEs.
!t mas seemed for some time past as If all the
labor and ingenuity that could be expended on
bead work and embroidery had been exhausted.
but in reality the work of design In this direc
ton has only just begun. The discovery of ire
descent color as applied to beads and the ap-
pl1cattOn OF natural forms to needlework has
opened up vista the end of which is certainly
not yet. The embroideries and beadwork upon
lace and silk muslin are among the most mar
yelous productions Of the needle, and one is not
more surprised at the exquisite loneliness of
the effects produced than the amount of labor
and cost seemingly thrown away on fabrics so
fra1l and tleeting. But the roses and lilies of
the embroidery live and survive the destruction
OF the foundation upon which they are based.
The lace may wear away, but the embroidery
remains beautiful as ever, aud is therefore not
SO extravaganza purchase as 1t seems
The beadwOrk In rainbow tintS in bronze In
amber, In minute drops of color, in which all
hues mingle and which are used to form leaf
lets upon satin, brilliant bordering for silk
nr1G md frir for hov
nets, pdSsementer'te for mantel ornaments,
and covering tor the entire fronts OF
rich dresses, show a splendor and diversity
one may SO express it. which is entitled to
respect. The most novel and beautiful dresses
seen at recent entertainments have been made
Of eaok sth RpeGs plain with perhaps
and front from the square neck to the edge of
the skirt, covered thickly with beai embroidery
In designs as traceable as If they were executed
each case fitted like glove, the sleeves were to
the elbow, and were finished with real D,tcheSse
or point lace. The necks were shawlshaped or
square, but the fronts made blaze of simmer
ing lights. And yet not blaze OF the light was
only caught and reflected as II by thousands Of
radiant pin-pointS and made the glories OF all
dresses the most remarkable was white satin
embroidered with white jet, an amber satin en-
broidered with shaded amber beads and dark
wine colored satin ornamented with the aark
bronze and beads of eredeScent hues mingled
together. The colored laceS are only Just be-
ginning to find their way beyond an exclusive
circle Coarse or common colored lace Is much
worse than none at all 1t must be rich, and
made expressly, or at least look as If it was
made expressly for the fabric with which it is
put IN order to be acceptable, and it
In fact, trimming Of all kinds should be real,
and adapted to their purpose or not Used at all
As an instance In point 1t may be remarked that
the plain edge OF wooden tailors- made garment 8
Is acknowledged to be more distinguished in ap-
pearahce than If it had the addition OF any
amount OF wooden fringe. 1t Is not necessary,
however, always to have great deal OF money
to speLd In order to produce good effect Ideas
go farther than money. The newest designs for
embroidery upon linen and other inexpensive
goods consists Of bronze stems and fibreS, upon
Inc points s. Of which are wrought the white
the peach. There are little leaves also and
messy stems with perhaps bug crawling upon
them, or little butterfly with outspread wings.
clever girl may embroider such a dress for
herself with no great expenditure Of time or
labor, and be In possession Of a costume that
will be the envy OF all her friends and that
money could not buy.
Summer fans have made their appearance
with brown stems and tibreS thrown half way
across the outer edge. The tiny Leaflets or
blossoms, the insects or birds flying towards it
straw trimmings generally will be feature of
the spring millinery and suit well the pretty
primrose, hel1otrOpe and mulberry ttntS which
appear In silks, satins, gauze, lace and Grape.
novelty in bead Ornamentation consists OF a
straight cape or very deep collar which Is fitted
to the throat and falls straight around the
shoulders. They are a great addition to plain
black costumes, either of silk or satin or cash
mere, fmpart1ng to them, If the basque is deep
and well cut, an air OF decided distinction.
OUTDOOR WEAR.
All the signs Of our season point to an early
recurrence of warm weather, to phenomenal
spring, in factwhich will demand change from
the warm clothing, which has scarcely been
needed throughout the entire winter A good
deal OF confusion has been created In fashionable
circles by the fact that while flowers were
blooming In the snow here, temperature Arctic
Ia Its severity prevailed abroad, and clOakS and
costumes sent from Paris and London were
better fitted for st. Petersburg than the SUM-
shine OF Broadway in New York. 1t would be
hardly safe even now to send to Paris for a
wrap, for instead of a little cape or mantle,
which will probably be the article required in
March and April, a Siberian coat will make its
appearance, OF long haired cloth, closed up from
with board bands Of fur wherever fur could be
placed.
Street garments are of two kinds. They are
eithervery long or very short. The stylish rag
Ian reaches to the heels. The fichu cape scarce
Iy covers the shoulders. Between these is the
jacket, very plain but well cut into the figure
and with straight Jersey skirt.
1t Is prOpheSied that summer dresses of mus
lin will be very simple. A single skirt, founced,
straight bodice, sash or ribbon belt, sleeves
half short, and lace or muslin flchu with ends
fastened In the belt.
A mantalet OF this description is the spring
ant ~