Morning journal and courier., 1880-09-23
Paris Fashions.
Short Dresses for Walking, Paniers and Scarf Draperies and Rich Materials i'm Vogue.
VI. c. s.


 : Short Dresses for Walking, Painters and ! Vogue.
 From Le Follet for september.I
 l September brings in no very novel fashions
 but confirms those introduced last month l The vogue of the polonaise is likely to be as great and as durable as when first yorr ono ! good reason being the fact that if it's material ! IS judlciously chosen several toilets may be 1 arranged simply by variety of underskirts
 each of which may again be accompanied by
 another polonaise, or some form of over l dress, such as casaquin and tunic and so ! multiply indefinitely the number and style of ] dresses at little expense. Tournures also ! and several other appliances for sustaining ! the back breadths of both long and short ! skirts are decidedly in fashion, and as SUD- ports to the heavier materials worn in au ] tumn and winter will be greet improvement ln comfort as well as appearance. Excepting l for elderly or very stout ladies' all Walkin0 dresses are made short, many accompanied 1 by adjustable trains if fitted in material and style to more habille purposes. These skirts l are quite narrow, the only fullness being at l the back; the top is fitted to a shaped band if made separate from the bodice-and the l back drapery is more or less bouffant. With trains, whether separate from or cut in the skirt, the same arrangement takes place. all the fullness being thrown to the back, and the length not commencing forwarder than the
 
 and the leading artists know too well how graceful and becoming they are to allow of their punishment Paniers of Surah mer veilleux, voile, barege, crepon, grenadine. &c., are very light and elegant the lower edges are trimmed with lace. fringe or a mousse of little plisses For evenine-dress
 garlands or fringes of flowers edge the pan
 iers' convulvulus, muguet, fuchsia and other
 pendent flowers being selected for the pur
 pose. The scarf draperies also are in as great
 favor as ever, and form an elegant addition
 to 'tPrincesse" dresses especially Draperies coulissees in the centre and plaited at the sides are very graceful, the contradiction thus caused in the folds showing the material to great advantage. Bodices laced or buttoned
 behind, are very becoming to most figures and decidedly elegant in appearance. Morn ing outdoor dress for seaside wear should be of extreme simplicity. The rich materials of the day are of great beauty-draps de sole, with brilliant flowers, some of which are woven with gold and silver threads brocaded satins, Pekins, double arnure, satin merveil- leux, gros de Lyon, satin, velvet, sIouis'' and sImperial'' velveteens, plain and figured poplins, for this beautiful material far too long neglected, has been brought again into fashion by the leaders of society and will be much employed. For dresses of simpler character the numerous fancy materials are ln great demand and are worn combined or trimmed with plain fabrics The soft wool lens of English make are in the greatest favor among Parisian as well as English elegantes and most lady-like as well as useful costumes are made with them Grenadines, gauges, mossolines de sole the most fashionable transparent materials and the numerous va- rieties of voiles, crepons, &c., are much en- ployed. Confections are becoming more and more elegant. Satin, gros grain, poplin, Sicilienne Schudda and Indian cashmere are the leading materials for toilets habillees; these are profusely trimmed with raised em- broidery, fringes, beads, passementeries, bead gathered and plaited laces. Col ored mantles and coats are also much worn, and made of cachemire or light cloth are very The colors chosen are gray. ecru, blege, ivoire and creme The leading styles in hats and bonnets are the ssMous- quetaire, , with raised brim. trimmed with B handsome feather en amazone the Con de, :" more oval in shape, and raised at one side only; the '.Calotte," covered with feath- ers the Tourists, D of straw lined with plain grena velvet, trimmed outside with scarf of nousseline de sole, edged with lace, tied with } large bow in front, spread out on the srown :; a veil of the same attached to the 'hapeau can be thrown over the face or light y twisted round the throat. Rice straw lined with color is very fashionable for dress bon nets, one of the most elegant being lined and trimmed with ruby velvet with a large spray 'f chestnut blossom falling behind on the lair.