New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-05-16

dest months of solitude in 1913, the mountains
curve continuously in lines of austere dignity anu
temnerc6 sweetness. Assist. SpOeto. lodl' lie'i
crown lesser heights within the range VI F'oio"
Here and there the glimpse of distant rivers hRn'S
silver spark upon the plain. Those NILS con0o"i
Lake 1hrosymene; and there lies Orvieto, ana An
coma there: while at our feet the Umbrlan chain-
naipp breaking away into the valley OIL INC lloel'
spreads in all the argeness of maestlcaly con'oie
ing mountain slopes. This IS a landscape WHICH "a"
never lose its charm. Whether it be purple golucu
Simmer. or Winter with sad tints OF russell "oouS
and family rosy SHOWS, Spring attired in tenuer
est green of new-1edced trees and budding flowers,
the air is always pure and light and finely tehpeIe"
here City gates sombre as their own antiquity,
frame vistas of the aughingfelds Terraces nahkeu
on either side by iuttng masonry cut clear
of oliye.hOary slopes, with cypress-shado"eu La IL"
in hollOws of the hills. Each colgn or pon' VI VAN
tace carries bastlon or tower OF Etruscan holn"'
pediaval architecture, tracing the limits Oh 'ho
TOWN upon Its mountain plateau Everywhere tU
and nature lie side by side in amity Deneath q shy
so pure and delicate that from Its lmpid ueptn 'o
spirit seems to drink new life. What alr-'in.S VI
lilac orange and pale amethyst are shed upon unoSe
vost ethereal hills and unduatng plains! what
wandering cloud-shadOws sail across this sea Oh
olives and of vines, with here and there fleece OF
vonor or q column of blue smoke from charcoal
burners OH the mountain flank! To southwark 1ar
avay beyond those hills is felt the presence OF eter
nal Rome not SEEM but clearly Indicated Dy tne nuI
rvlnc of hundred streams that swell the llDer.
The neighborhoOd of the town affords much 10 at
tract the student of antiquities, art. or history
No city illustrates moro forclbly the VlolenC Gull
trasts of the earlier Renaissance. Inc name Vi
Perupia suggests at once the painter who more ina"
any other gave expression to devout emotions III
49, nlioiOn n
of medigval history in detail we'll know Perugla as
Tho lair of one of the most erocous breeds of heroic
rrAions which italy can boast. Her name to them
| n,osorts the great house Of the Bagloni, VINO
drenched Umbra with blood, and gave the oroau
folds of Assist to the wolf, and who through SIX
successive generations bred captains for the armies
of Venice Florence, Naples, and the Church. Inc
art of Perugino implied q large number OF devout
and wealthy patrons, who were not only capaoe vi
COMMUNICATING him, but eager to restrict MS greU
mowers TO purely devotional dclineatlon Inc ieuis
of the Bagioni on the other hand implied society
in which eoregious crimes only needed success to he
accounted glorious where force, cruelty, and cynical
craft reicned supreme, and where the anii1al IN
4incts attained gigantic proportions in the persons
| of snlendd Young athletic despots. In Peruga, IN
, word heneath the fierce blaze of the Renaissance,
1vere hrouoht into glowing contrast both the mar
| +;oI violence and the religious sentiment OF medlH
valism, raised for moment to the elevation OF hhe
| art The contrast between the bloody scenes ue-
sorbed by the historians of the period ana the paclu
indifference of modern society is the subject OF one
If the authors most vivid characteristic pictures -
After reading the chronicle of Matarazzo at Pc,
ruga through one Winter Day ielt LnS Ih
snuare for still those steps ana paVemehs 10 NY
strained imagination seemed reeklng WIN tne out-
nonred blood of BagliOni and on the ragged stoue-
| of Con Lore
diving day, Then by one OF those strange HeahS VI
the brain TO which we are all sunect. LOT o'vmU
finished church walls and as i walked was III
tbe Close of Salisbury on a pertumGd summer hllcI
noon The drOwsy scent of lIno-hoWcrS ana mig
nonette the cawlng of elm-cradlcd rocks, me nun
| of bees above, the velvet touch OF smo0th-shoIl
grass and the bTeathessshacOw OF notohIesS eIGei
| hougbs made up one potent ana apsorohg Hloou vi
| tho Charmed senses. Far overhead SCARED the calm
Sray spire into the infinite arr and the perfection
Of accomplished beauty slept beneath III those Tong
lines of nave and choir and TRANSCRIPTS. 1t was but
momentary dream, a thought that burned liseli
mon fancy overtaxed by passionate images. Once
once more saw the bleak, bare ilngs OF tue Ieiupa
piazza the fOrorn front OF the Du0mo' Tue pi0nz'
inSdn and Pisauo's fountain, with here and there
a fake of that tuInultuOus fire when the lLallal
, sunset sheds. Who shall adequately compare INC
Two nicturcs2 Which shall we prefer the Close OF
Salisbury with it sleepy bells and cushioned ease
of imInemOrial deans, or thls poor thIeau'
bare passion Of fe hlaggd o wer0 where T eenu
in painters and scholars ana prophets aId tcSlaIIi
levers has throbbed itself away TO nOthingnesS
II wonld be foolish to seek an answer TO TINS qucs
, | ti,n die 70 institute a comparison for Instance
between those tall young men Win thelf Droao
Winter cloaks, VINO remind me OF DriG9hetto, an,
the verrers pottcrlng III search OF shllllhRS :Oht
the gravel. paths of Salisbury. IT, Is more Iatlohal
nerhons 10 reflect of what strange stun our Soui
. are made in this age of the world, when @sthetl
1 nieasures full genuine, and satisfying, can b
communicated alike by Perugla win us IqScina
ton of dead, IrTevOcable. dramatic past, aug ca =
bnry which fluids the artistic climax OF lts Ehglisl
confort i'm the "angel Of the house." FROM NaIa
| raZzo smitten with Greek love Tor the Deautlu
GufOnettO, to MIR. PatmOTe ID wac s'ep
+ MIR. Symonds's chapter entitled " Thoughts II
Rome about Christmas" affords a specimen OF tn
refined speculative suggestions clothed III shii
ing parb of poetic prose- in which, with the eXcep
t;on Of Mr. RuskIn, he has no prototype in the Who'll
z field of English literature. On journey to Rom
bv the way of Siena with the landscape lighted Il
nv brilliant sun like that of q late SUPPLEMENTARY
J.. he was pursued by the thought whether Christina
. in Italy vas the as Christmas IN England
with the loads of holly and mistetoe brought int
: tho towns on country carts. He arrived in time t
hear the midnight services on CHRISTMAS eve III III
f Sistine Chapel and St. John OF Latolau' TO Dreath
@ | ,ho dnst Of decayed shrnes, to wonder at dOtin
cardinals bcgrimed with dust and to resent the ba
= | toeto of the conceited Engishmen who made
q ! rnocl,erv Of the palsy-stIicken ceremonies Their
: were nine cardinals going to sleep, nine train-bea
u era talking scandal, and twenty huge, handsom
' Switzers in the dress devised by Michael Angelo
y The choir, Gagged off by Gdcd railing, gave out
continual nasal drone, of which wcro caught at II
h teryals the words, "S@cua. s9cuorum, amen.
f The chapel bazed with light, and very strange di
Is Michael Angeles Last Judgment, and his Sibyl
fl and his Prophets appear upon the roof above I'll
is motley crowd:-
n- Next morning put my dress-Glothes and whit
De tie and repaired with groups of Engishmcn sim
W iarlv attlrei and of EnQlishwOmen in black Graz
~. 1.-THE regulation costumel, 20 st. Peters 1t was
u glorious and cloudless morning; sunbeams stTeahe
is tbe vast space full Of soldiers and mingled mass
every kind of people. Up the nave stood doub
flies of the p0ntifical guard. Monks and nuns mix.
IN With The Swiss curassiers and haberds. COntddt
It. crowded round the sacred images, and especial