Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1880-05-21
perfumery and Flowers.


II is carious fact that some OF our
svee,est flowers are UNAVAILABLE Tor
the purpose Of ferfunery. Sweet brier.
for instance, aud eglantine can only be
initiated. No process has yet been dis
covered by which their delicate per
fnme can be extracted and Pre- served +;
hat spirituous extracts OF rose pomade,
of flower OF orange, neroii 0il-slso
producel from the orange, and YER
bena-when cunningly combined, very
fairly initiate both. Lily OF the val
ley-another useless flower 10 the per-
fumer, thsugh of exquisite scent in
itself-is marvellsusly initiated by u
compound Of vanilla. extract Of tube
rose. jasmine and otto of almonds.
Almost all lilies are found too power
full even for perfumery purposes. and
are therefore little used, even in combi-
nation With other odors, for it has been
found IN many instances that they do
not harmonizs we'll with the fixing
and Disgusting" scents in general use.
1t appears from DIR. Piesse's little
book on pefumes that most OF our very
sweetest flowers are only successfully
initiated, Ms the wall-hower, clove-pink,
sweet pea. Magnolia is too expensive
TO be genuine. Myrtle is very rarely
genuine. Zeal sweet Dea there L. none,
and heliotrope and honsysuckle are
cley,rly msde up. Iuberose, vanilla.
orange flower, violet, rose, jasmine and
cassie, with orris and vitivert, musk
and anbergris il proper proportions
and combinations, are the leading ln-
gradients in most perfumes. Mignon-
cite. sweet as il is in the garden, is al
mos; useless by itself TO the perfumer
and tuberose, one of the sweetest
il not the very sweetest flower
that blooms, combined with jasmine
makes the perfume called stepLanotls.
By eafeurdge il gives II most delicious
extract; but il needs to be fixed imme-
diately by a less volatile scent. or il
will Immediately evaporate. Fixed by
vanilla or some other enduring odor. II
is one of the most charming and useful
essences in the perfumer's repe, f0ire,
and enters into the composition of al
most all the favorite handkerchief bou-
quets. Cassie, otto OF almonds, tuba
rose and orris, or two-thirds Of the
violet essence generally sold. The
genuine essence OF violets is only to be
procured at special places and at exorb'
liant prices.
Of fixing or permanent scents, the
principal are musk, vanilla, amber
girls, orris and vitivert. Orris is per-
hsps more used than any other, and
enters largely into the composition of
all popular dentifrices. From the odor
already known, We may produce by
proper combinations the scent OF almost
every flower that blows, except the jas
mine. 1t is the one perfume that deties
spurious imitation. It seems almost
needless to say that otto of rose comes
chiefly from the East. The rose-fields
OF Kizanlik, in Roumelia, and the sweet
valleys of Cashmere give US the altar gul
renowned over the whole world. But
there is very sweet otto of rose made
from the beautiful Province roses that
grow to such perfection at Cannes and
Grasse. The flower has rather subtle
odor, arising, it is said, from the bees
1 carrying the pollen of the orange.Aowers
7 to the rose. beds. The otto is obtained
by maceration and entIeurage.
The whole South of Europe is what
one might call the perfumer's happy
farming ground. Comes and Nice are
especially famous. There, on the mild
sea-cOast grows the delicate cassie that
can scarcely bear q blast; at the foot of
the mountains, tho violets are sweeter
than if grown in the sheltered valleys,
where the orange, tuberose and mig
nonette attain to such marvellous per-
lection. But flowers are grown for per.
fumery purposes in many other places.
Nemes is famous for its rosemary and
thyme, Nice for its violets, Sicily for
Its lemons and bergamot, ana England
IS famous for lavender and peppermint;
the latter always commanding high
price in foreign markets, as 1t forms
the general mouthwssh used on the
Continent. The lavender grown ut
Mitcham and Hitchin is about eight
times the value of that grown in France
and Italy; and for ordinary uso there is
nosweeter perfume than good lavender
water.-Chan,bers's Journal.
To WASH FINE MUSLIN. In washing
muslin dresses, the colors may DO pre-
vented from running by pursuing the
following course: Take out all the
gathers at the top OF the sleeves and
at the waist, wash the dress quickly in
not too warm water, rinse 1t immediate
~. roll it smoothly in dry sheet, and
let it remain uutil just damp enough
to iron. Another process for washing
hne muslin of delicate colors is to take
wheat bran--about two uarts for a
!ady's dress--and boil it for half an hour
IN some soft water, then allow it to cool,
strain the LIQUID, and use it as q substi-
tute for soapsuds. 1t removes the dirt
\ from the material like soap, is inert in
regard to the oelors, and requires to be
rinsed out in only one clean water, and
starching is unnecessary. This may be
regarded as the best method, on the
whole Of washing fine muslins anq also
calicoes. A great number of beautiful
dresses are, from time to time, spoiled
In washing by the discharge OF their
colors, from the use Of warm suds. In
all cases the suds and rinsing water for
colored articles of drens should DO used
IA oal1 an r>nssihla Tho hrop uanJ ..