The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1880-12-04
Fall and Winter Dresses.

last winters style; the same basoues.
the same quiet drapery in the hack of
the overskirt, which is in fact a mart of
and attached to the underskirt. of which
not more than six or eight inches shows
at the bottom.
The most elegant tints are of silk,
damassee, satin, satin de Lyons. plush,
in various combinations rarely Of one
material throughout, though frequently
of different shades of the same color.
Jet is still chiefly relied upon for bril-
liancy of effect, and the simple edcing
of cut beads very popular, and certainly
very beautiful. Colors were never rich
er in tone or in contrasts, and some
beautiful effects are produced by q
bright lining of satin or plush, of which
you get, as it were, accidental glimpses
in the drapings.
The varieties in wooden fabrics are
even more fascinating and tempting. as
they come more within the limits of
average purses and desires and are
viewed with a positive intention of APP
propriating, rather than as interesting
specimens of high art. All shades Of
olive in soft wool and camel s-hair tex
lures offer tempting possibilities. Some
in handkerchief patterns, the border be-
ing rich but quiet combination of
colors in which gold predominates. A
dress would require twelve of these
handkerchiefs, and they are from g 10
81 square, so that nice suit can be
had for $50, or less, if made at home.
This matter of dress-making is always
very disturbing and sometimes costs
more than the material itself. By hav-
ing dress-maker come to the house it
can be greatly reduced-say to three,
four or five dollars-but this is always
attended with uncertainty of result;
that intangible but indispensable thing
known as style may elude you.
The simplicity of some of the street
costumes is acceptable to those of us
who have no taste for elaboration. A
perfectly plain short skirt with trimming
at the bottom about six inches deep, and
over that a coat with loose breadths-
such a one, made to fill an order, we
have seen of olive damassee over q
skirt of olive satin; almost severe in its
simplicity, but very distinguished, and
may of course be initiated in less ex-
travagant materials. AS the skirt will
not tax any ones skill very much, the
coat alone will require the help of an
expert.
The hood on street suits, as well as
on coats and cloaks, is an old friend,
and very picturesque addition. They
are usually lined with bright plaid or
some contrasting shade of silk. Some
fit closely to the back as if pressed, and
others set up in loose folds. This CRATE
full feature of the coming season is sure
to be very popular, and perhaps it will
be well to make it adjustable, so that in
case it becomes unpleasantly common it
may be removed at will.
The Scotch and French plaids-al-
ways a staple article in the raarket-are
seen this season in brighter combina-
lions of color than usual. The French
goods are imbued with the delicacy of
tint which is so conspicuous IN the man.
ufactures of that people; so that they
do not shock even where there's union
of many bright and differing shades.
These goods can be had from 81. so to
$500 per yard, forty eight inches in
width. They make very serviceable
suits for young girls attending school,
and require very little trimming. The
underneath skirt may be siEaply bor-
aered with single plating, one-eighth of
q yard in depth; over-skirt stitched;
sleeves and collar may be prettily finished
with facings of cashmere.
Many new wool materials sire brought
out in plain solid shades; some with
smooth surface, and others with twilled.
These goods are desirable for all ordi-
nary wear, and can be trimmed with
satin to match the material, or bright
ened with pipings of cashmere in any
pretty contrasting shade. Striped worsted
braid makes a very suitable trimming
for them. A lovely suit of bottle-green
lady's cloth was shown, with facings of
cardinal cashmere, having the Languedoc
sacque of the same material for street
wear. Lady's cloth should always be
shrunk before making.
Cancels hair is still in great favor and
seen in all the exquisitely beautiful tints.
Certainly no material can give better
service that a good French camel's -hair.
The best quality is the cheapest The
camel's-hair with monte cloth finish-a
new materials mostly made up with
plush.
Striped and plaid plush and velvet
will be much used-a marked feature
in trimming for fall and winter wear.
Satin will be in favor, and combines
very prettily with camel's-hair. A very
handsome suit is of black camel's-hair
trimmed with black satin and lace. A
dress trimmed in this style can be worn
at any season.
Much that is unique and effective de-
ponds upon the proper combination of
color. Many people violate the laws of
good taste in this particular more than
in all others. Much depends upon har-
mony, even in contrast. In the some
what new and desirable fabric for la
dies wear called cheviot we find the
beautiful shades of dark plum, garnet,
turquois blue, bronze, old gold and green
combined in small, deep-toned checks,
with rough surface by which an APP
pearance of indistinctness is produced.
From this material are made handsome
suits, with side plating on underneath
dress; overdress and basque piped with
any of the shades in the material to suit
the taste. Cheviot is much used for
children's wear, being frightened with
cashmere in the invisible colors which
abound in the fabric. 1t is forty-two
to forty eight inches in width. and costs