Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-11-01
THE EVENING STAR.
November 4. 1850.
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
A Private Autumn .sGpcning'' of a
Eirst-Class Modesto.

firSt.Class NO1iSGe.
VELVET AND FUR-How MANY POUNDS WEIGHT
A FASHIONABLE LADY CAN CARRY-PURE WOOL
AND ITS INFLUENCE, ETC, ETC. ETC.
From oar OIen Correspondent
NEW YORK Oct. 1910 understand Fashion
as it regulates the affairs OF those who live
sup" or down" to it, one must attend the
private exhibitions Of new styles made by mod.
1stes who so to Paris regularly twice year and
import not only for themselves, but largely by
order OF regular customers Some OF the re-
cogntZed authorities among this high class OF
dresSmakers are women OF great Intelligence
and commanding character. and they exercise
weaithiest representatives of New York society,"
What they select and bring Is to be admired,
not criticized; what they advise or dictite is
usually accepted as final. And on the whole
this is natural inevitable, and the best that
can be done vulgar woman never gains this
supremacy. She must have taste, tact, eXpe-
rience, knowledge OF the requirements, and
some elements or natural superiority. There is
no such thing as ''iuck" among women who
make their own way any more than among
men. Such women do not make fashion; they
5ccept what the great centres supplies to them
and they modify sometimes or give an original
order for their benefit or at the desire of spe-
cial customer. Their function is in select
ing, bug ing, knowing at sight whether a
that has been used before), or new" that is.
arranged In some different way-cut Off here or
heightened there). and made OF a material
which l. accepted as the "vogue," because it is
f1erent from last season, and because 1t is
l su d as such by Partisan authority.
All this requires Judgment and experience
In Paris, more than In any other place in the
world. there are always abundant opportunt-
Ties to purchase the l0telieSt things at what
seems to one fresh from any American city,
absurdly low prices. What difference does it
make II they are not the newest things TO one
who does not know what the newest thing is,
and has something that her soul has longed for.
ana That she could not get at home because of
us extravaganza? OF course she buys ii and Is
nappy, out II She is generous and sympathetic
person She wishes to supply all her friends and
III she was an inexperienced buyer for fashion
aole CLIENTELE at home she would perhaps pur-
chase largely with the idea OF making nice
profit, and find herself swamped with old stock
that her customers would not glance at sec
oDd time.
But the most successful purveyors of the
Paris Il arkets have their difficulties 10 dealing
with class whose position and ignorance OF
all practical details renders them both insoienJ
ana fastidious. $500 dress or cloak thrown
pack upon the hands Of a buyer goes far to
render her season Improbable, and she must
deal with each one so as not to batray the fact
IL Is she who holds the refns. At the private
autumn opening which took place the other
DAY at the quiet home In a side street OF one OF
the greatest of these reigning authorities, the
safes mad been large the success complete. yet
her clear cut, really beautiful face was drawn
into an expression Of utter WEAKNESS and main
as she said with Such a tired smile: ..It looks
very line, doesn't ii: but IL is not very fine after
ALL SO there is an under side always that is
worth looking at and taking into consideration
Ia the discussion OF any subject, and the reason
why so much Injustice is done In this world is
because the under side is out OF sight and does
not enter into our calculations or modify our
judgment.
VELVET AND FUR.
This has been called a "velvetD season. be-
cause OF me revival of that exquisite fabric
having been neglected Tor several e years. ears.
Doubtless the severity OF the winter abroad
las year has had something to do with the
tainly Partisan fashions look more as If they
had been prepared for a winter In ST. Peters.
DuTg than New York; even under normal con-
ditions which have been modified 10 a reoark
able degree OF m1ldneSS for several years past.
what we shall do with the heavy masses OF
velvet trimmed with broad and deep bands OF
Iui should the same moderate temperature pre-
vail through still another season, IL Is ard to
conjecture. French fashions would be at dis
count. Among the articles brought over were
eight rich cloaks, the least expensive being
valueG az S2S5, and the highest priced, s.95. All
these had been sold instantly, and II was only
as great favor that two were allowed to re-
main through the day; the others were des-
costly ones was something hardly to be be.
ieVed without trial. II delicate lady was to
be asked to carry such burden in the shape Of
A strong woman would find a difficulty to
ho!dlng IL at arms length. yet the material was
only satin duchesse, or brocade, lined with Old
gold or tiger plush and trimmed with orna.
mahts, cords, paSsementerieS, 1etted fringeS
aha the like. But the reasons for the weight
lie In the great length, in the fuIness which
r,qnlres such mass of material, 10 the pleated
SKIRT In the Jetted collars finished with thick
ruchings at the throat In the qualities OF
thick, soft. cr1mped and beaded fr.nges, and
great plaques, buttons, and ornaments OF passe-
Fur does not appear as trimming or as lining
upon the most costly of the French Cioaks, and
us place upon cloth Is largely taken by car
pei %oye1 1 plush, which has long pile, and
Ties, put which is s1ngulafly effective. Evon
TOT TIE lining OF wraps, fur Is replaced IN N my
instances by striped or high coIored plush bl6
IL Is used In profuSton upon elegant satin and
velvet dresses and costumes. Plain silks, it
may be remarked. is banished this season from
the list OF fashionable fabrics 1t has been on
the decline for several seasons past but this
year it does not appear even in combination.
me nearest approach 10 it is the satin s'Slb-
llme,' and satin de Lyon silks with satin
surface; the first twilled, the second cores
ponding to what was called TURK SATIN thirty
Years ago. Plain Or surface satins, which have
more or less OF cotton or linen mixture in the
lace, nave run plain SILK as trimming and
element for combination out of the market, for
at corresponding price it can be obtained of
more durable and effective quality. But satin
OF this description does not enter into the
making OF very elegant costume, and its popu-
lar use has even discredited the richer and
more genuine, though less Snowy satin fabrics
SO tnat velvet Is eagerly welcome for costumes
and dinner dresses, and particularly for visiting
and streets. Wine color, a pure shade OF very
dark blue bronze green, and leaf brown are the
fs.vortte colors, and they are trimmed With
broad bands Of m.niver, otter, chinchilla and
lynx. Natural beaver and the pointed furs are
II served for all black suits.
the street dresses are short. and the back of
the Skirt straight Some OF them seem to be CON-
posed OF three wide stripes of fur, alternating
With three wide stripes or velvet. The front Is
1ormea Dy dress apron, open on one side. The
fur Which formed its border carried up and eX-
tending to the waist. The basque will, perhaps,
DE finished by a cape, and this sarmounted BY a
collar as large as a polonaise Of the fur, and
both lined with yellow or wine striped plush or
S.tin.
A dinner dress OF wine colored velvet has a
Dahd OF m1never across the front breadUhS over
q quarter OF yard In depth. The basque is
Coat with tails which are trimmed With fur aud
Costly FlOrent1ne buttons and bands OF fur hug
tue neck, Which is open heart shaped aud
H1lSneo with gold lace, and the top and elbow
OF the sleeves, but not the wrists which are
1nlshed with deep CUTS OF gold lace only. The
train ls pleated and plain, with the exception of
a narrow thick pleatlng of velvet and an inte-
rior one Of satin hardly percsptiDie, the shade
In old gold, the satin which lines The lappels of
the coat
Muffs are made of velvet with a center OF fur
to match. The fur trimmings of suits and the
ends consist Of double pleated ruffleS OF velvet
and satin, with an interior lining OF quilted
satin. Heads OF animals, from which the fur is
obtained, are put to curious uses. One will be
placed on the side Of the muff; another set like
TIE first In rim, like frame OF fur or feath-