The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1880-04-21
rRKNcH VINES AND WINES.

FRENCH VINES AND WINES.
The Famous French Vineyards Described
With Pen and Pencil-How and Where
the Best Wines Are Made.
3o A sumptuous volume has recently been
issued from the Paris publishing house of (.
Plon & Co., entitled ala Vigne: Voyage
autour des Wins de France" The author is
NJ. Bertall, and the book is well described in
a subtitle as physiological, anecdotsl, his.
torical. humorous, and somewhat scientific
study"
The wines of France are classified in three
chief categories-white wines, blue wines.
red winee-white, red, and blue-the French
national colors. The white wines. says NJ.
Bertall, are wines of luxury and of excep-
tional use in ordinary life; from the Chabirs
and the Saumur, which molsten the oysters
and enliven choice dinners, to the grand
Champagne which sparkles in the glasses at
diners de fete, and the grand Sauterne, which
diffuses its golden amber radiance on festival
occasions. White wine is the wine of the
rich. Red wines are the French wines par
excellence-the wines Of custom and of good
taste; those which especially rejoice the heart
and the brain, enlarge the mind, and give
everything a roseaie hue. To them belong
the warm and transparent color, and the
delicate, elegant, and delicious bouquet.
Blue wines are the wines of the poor. of the
mechanic, and the laborer. They are warm
in the stomach but sharp in the throat; they
revive the body and the mind If taken mod
erately, but, if drunk in excess, exssperate
the vital forces and destroy the play of
thought.
The question as to whether the red wines
of Bordeaux or those of Burgundy deserve
the first rank is an old one, and is no nearer
settlement than it was 100 years ago.
"Your wines are simple drinks for sick peo-
ple," say the Burgundians "YOurs are
head-splitting beverages" retort the Borde
lais. "Ours can travel with impunity," say
| the first. "Ours improve marvelOusly with
| age" declares the second. Most consumers
| are like the President of a Paris tribunal,
| fine epicure after the manner of Brillat-
| Savarin, who was asked at a dinner party
| by the lady of the house whether he pre-
| ferred Bordeaux or Burgundy. Madame
replied the magistrate. in his gravest tones,
'this is case which has occupied me for
| long time, and which am desirous of decid-
| ing, but l experience so much pleasure in
examining the evidence on both sides that
| 1 postpone my decision from week TO week"
The finest of the Bordeaux wines is the
| Chateau LATTE, and close after it rank the
| Chateau Margaux and the Chateau Latour.
| These alone are classed as the first quality.
The second quality includes Larose. Rouzan,
Leovillee, and dozen other brands less
/ known in American markets. The third,
fourth and fifth grades in the Bordeaux
classification include few names that would
be recognized in this country. Probably
the wines of these grades are generally label
| ed for American consumption with names
they have no right to. Below all these
| grades are three other classes called, respec-
lively, Bourgeoise Artisan and Peasant
| wines. The Chateau LATTE estate was
bought by the Barons Al phonse, Gustave
and Edmond Rothschild in 1868 on
the death of Count Duchatel, for
| $500, 600 francs. In ten years the
/ profits on the wine it produced returned the
| entire purchase money to the new owners.
The wines vary considerably in excellence
and value from year to year. After the sale
of the property there was an auction in the
cellars of all the accumulated stock. The
highest price was paid fortwenty-one bottles
of the famous Comet wine, so called from the
fact that it was produced In l81l-the year
Of the great comet. 1t brought l2l francs q
bottle. The great variation in the value OF
Chateau LATTE was shown by the sales of
the product Of recent years, 1864 wine bring
ing eighteen francs a bottle, while that of
1868 sold for only seven. In good years the
vinegar is of Chateau Laftte yield only $50
casks OF wine. The whole product, save what
the Rothschilds reserve for themselves, is
sold in bulk to q single wine merchant, who
disposes of most of it to the English nobility
Very few bottles find their way across the
Atlantic. Most of the so called Chateau
LATTE sold in Europe and America is Dor.
4 Of he frd rals
labeled. The King of all Burgundy wines
is the Clos Vougeot. A little before reaching
Dion, says NJ. Bertall, the train from Beaune
passes on the right long hillside bathed in
sunlight, of mountainous aspect, but care
fully cultivated. Upon its slope stands huge
bare looking structure dominated by two mas
sive square towers.
| Gall at once the countenance of my trav-
cling companion, usually so gay, assumed an
appearance of exceptional gravity. He re.
| spectfully removed his hat.
| "'Uncover,' said he.
81 fastened to initiate him
But what for7' l asked.
Salute the Clos Vougeot,' he replied
with earnestness, the most precious gift
Heaven has made to our country
ut was ancient custom, 1 learned
When regiment passes on the road, the
Colonel orders the drums to beat and the
troops to present arms. In fact, too much
honor can not be paid to this exceptional
product of the generous soil of Burgundy. A
tout selgneur tout honneur."
The Clos-Vougoet Vineyard contains
about 100 acres. and gives an average annual
yield of $4,000 gallons. 1t is probable, says
the author, that at least ten times as much
apocryphal Cos-Vougeot wine is sold as gen.
uine. The chateau was built by brother
hood OF Bernadine monks in 1861, and re-
manned In the possession of the order unit
the revolution, when it was confscated and
} cold. 1t now belongs to the heirs of NJ
Ouvrard.
} The best French white wine is at the
} Chateau Yquem, the product of vineyard
near Pujols, in the Departmental Lot Ell
Garonne, the property of the Marquis do
. / j mr. gall,nas Chntaa,, Xa...-,. NJ