The New Orleans daily Democrat., 1880-04-04
FASHION TALK.
How To Keep Cool in Warm
Weather.
The New Fabrics Just Suited to
to Spring and Summer Lin
gerie, Underwear,
Etc,

An Otu nubnDE OHc6 Bhiu Lb u young Dss
who had literary aspirations: Don't write
book my boy; the shelves are full" There
would be dismal gap on certain shelves that
we know about II the young genius had
hearkened to the dehortative counsel of his
ancient adviser; yet, really, one feels at
times as II the amount of clever writing that
is pouring In upon an unprotected people
should be limited by law. To read ell the
good books that were thought at one time es-
sential to polite education, and yet keep
no with this breathess rush Of literature
that gains In volume day by day, would seem
TO necessitate retirement to solitary life
and a conservation OF all one's hours to the pc
rusal OF new books.
But that is not half the grievance, as II an
avalanche OF printed, bound and titled talent
we're not enough for poor reading humanity
newspapers come upon us like bees about a
clover field, and quarterlies, monthlies and
week9les, like the locu3ts Of Egypt. Con
spiclo,is among these last swarm the fashion
publications, which have a knaok peculiarly
their own of turning peoples heads. II
American women do not degenerate into
mere devourels OF fashion Items 1t will not
be because all the allurements of literature
and art have not been thrown about them
Even the practical hand of science lifts q
finger In this cause, and "hyglenie' dressing
becomes fashionable hobby In which even
the prudent and pious may join
The DEMOCRAT ls In no Wise better than Its
fellows In this matter, but has fallen into the
general SNARE and with an expiative men
culpu 1t lays before n church going COM
munity all the temptations to personal van
ity that week of discovery can put INTO
Sunday paper, and carefully instruots Its
readers how to trim ''the congregation side
of their bonnets.' But after all, our trained
and crinolined girls are not more frivolous
than the lasses of q century ago who met
together in kirk, where
Some were thinkin' on their sins.
And some upon their elaes,'
and 1t Is by no means clear that 1t is more
reprehenshle to think oompacently on pretty
clothes than bitterly on mean ones Until
this point Ia settled, and we are convinced
that dress ls without moral influence, 1t Is
not probable that the assiduity Of fashion
writer's will abate.
LINGERIE.
Indeed how can 1t, when every window on
Canal street acts as stimuant? The linge-
rie alone displayed there would mock the
sternest self control. and the laces tempt the
most Invlolable consclentiousneSs. The prss-
ent aspect of neck-ties is really dangerous
They are assuming such huge proportions
that they threaten toextinguish other import
ant points of the toilette. Cravets grow
broader and fuller day by day, and can only
be made of the very softest, finest material,
which may be lightly massed and thrown
into graceful outlines. Il is TO be hoped that
ties and crayats have reached their greatest
expansion, and that the thick frlls now In
vogue will not swell into the EllZabethan ruff.
which rises like o casemate around the head
Frllls may be made as full as the taste de-
sres, and of any of the delicate new laces
Il
d'esprit are particularly adapted to plating,
although Languedoc Is sometimes preferred
for Its richer tones.
J bots are shown In several shades of yell
low, from eoru to cafe-dm- lau and rtlsset. rs
well as in dlaphanous films of snowy lisss
and tulle for compilations that will not bear
any suggestion of yellow. Laees have be-
come an accepted accompaniment to full
toilettes, and quite plain dresses are rendered
snowy by the addition Of handsome lingerie
The figured MULE which Is so much seen In
scsrfs, cravats and fiChus, is particularly fan
cied by young ladies, and promises to be the
preferred material for neckwear and break
fast caps at sea. side and mountain resorts
next summer.
A very dainty chemisette. to be worn with
a surpice-shaped waist, Is made of plaitings
of Languedoo or Breton lace passing In three
graduated rows around the neck and down
each side of the front, as far as the opening
of the waist extends. A cuff, corresponding
In style, accompanies the ehemisette and
should be worn with sleeve which opens on
the outside OF the wrist. Another cheml-
sette, designed to be worn with u square
necked waist, Is made of puf1iDgs of fine
mule between rows Of Bretonne insertion.
and plating of lace to match, finishes the
edge and neck. The accompanying cuff has
q puff of MULE between rows of Insertion,
and a double plating of lace on the edges to
match that In the neck of the chemlsette.
New laces have to q very great extent sup
planted the old favorltes for general use.
Bretonne though still largely used, shares
Its popularity with the newer point d'esprit,
and that In return yields up something to the
later fancy OF Languedoc: There Ia still
fresher novelty In Malines lace. an imitation
of Mechlin 1t Is soft and feathery, and shows
principally q pattern In crushed roses, with
sprays.
Mousseine de sole is still much used In the
manufacture of lingerie, and crepe de chens
In exquisitely delicate shades is as much ad-
mired as ever. Some Of the Collarettes and
tichus shown in moueselne de. ioie are very
elegant and expensive, the trimming being
of real lace. A very beautiful tichu Is made of
soft mousseline de sole laid In folds around
the neck and down the front to the belt
There Is full ruche OF lace In the neck and
a border of point daloncon on the outer edge.
A garland OF tiny rosebuds, or of other small
flowers, garnishes the neck.
SATIN,
The revival of satin as fabric for garni-
ture has proved to be the grand inspiration Of
manufacturers. and such has been its success
that 1t still holds the first place In fashionable
favor. Its decorative capabilities recommend
1t to the taxed ingenuity OF dressmakers who
bring out It's lustrous face In hundred new
expressions. The admixture of linen as n
basis in satin makes 1t not only more dura-
bic, but far richer than 1t would otherwise
be. Rosettes made Of plated satin are very
snowy, and may be rapidly and accurately
made from long uncut strips laid In double
box-plaits and caught into rosette shape by
buttons or pendants. A little ingenuity and
reveal MANY charming variations in its ar
rangement. A very handsome sleeve may be
made by the insertion of V-shaped puffs at
the shoulder and wrist; and another by
double puff extending the whole length of the
sleeve on the outer side, or, il preferred, ter
minating just below the elbow, leaving the
lower part of the sleeve open for lace plait-
ings, These garnitures require compare
lively small amount OF material, and suggest
an economical ,piecing--out of scraps that
should commend 1t to the hearts of thrifty
ShODnarS Scraps nf lapa and fringe al,ch aa