New-York tribune., 1880-04-04
THE FASHIONS.

VICTORIA AND TIE IRISH POPLSs-IuE MASK
VEIL Nut IN FAVOR WITH PHYSICIANS.
There IS an excess Of embroidery and superb
cries in brilliant colors The taste for neutral
fns has departed White dresses Of satin ser brocade
are enriched with graceful cascades and white Jet
embroideres upon lace into which pearls and shell work
are introduced Again embroidery In crewe and In silk
IA seen on bands different kinds Of dresses I'm designs
of flowers and foliage, nermixed with pearls or rides
cent beads Oth1r patterns worked directly on the ma
teral are In odd arabesques and Oriental patterns OF
palms and ailantus.
ln passementeres the designs take the shape OF ferns
palms, and others initiate closely the small dice
like figures, the intricate patterns Of India shawls In
ridescent bead work. showing every brilliant hue eN-
quistely shaded Added TO this comes embroidery III
gold, Steel silver chenille wool, cotton applied on all
kinds of materials very old fashion s revived This Is
soft linen and null muslin covered over with large uoS
embroidered in shade OF cotton linen floss, wool or slk
The dots are instance, white ana gray two shades
OF gray, again haved IN two cOlors These are done III
satin stitch and in Chain stitch
Another charming speciality of tho toilet is hand
painting silk and satin velvet skilfu artist can
paint sprays garlands Of flowers on neckte, sash
ends corsage backs of gloves and cuffs 10 match Lilies
Ofthe valley fOrgetmenOs, aud moss rose Duds are
faYOre flowers for blondes; buttercups Jonquls, dan
delions and little suuhOwers brnnettes. They are
especially handsome black silk or satin, when boots
slippers OF the material painted to corre-
spOnd.
Yellow is the prevailing color uers mngle all yel
low roses poppies and chrysanthemums with vyd cop
per reds scarles and Jacqueminot reds Dark Asrppi
ma roses brighten thu color Of small sunowers Marsua
Neil roses or pale cJwsps Yellow las been an unstly
despisd color and only when il Is too pure Is 1t unnn
ageablp then must be placed with dn eoIors sueh as
tnc deem heavy reds used in the draperes or the old
Italian masters, especially OF Titan. The red chosen ny
the Spanish women is very dcep they avoid scarlet or
cardinal AZ they would green blue. pale dull blue
contrasts we'll with pure yellow; pure. vivid blue Kills
IT, blonde can very we'll wear yellow cautiously
mixed with the intense purple Of the Parma violet or the
new heotrOpe cOlors which properly belong 10 the uu
tints aud be confouuded with the very pure
shades of the hclotrOpe flower. Skilled American
taates are toning down the strong contrasts OF
French models so that blonde ard brunette American
STYLES are better suited
Some delicious colors and fabrics appear for Sum-
mer toilets and evening dresses Through most OF these
there is strong Oriental tendency in color and design
in japanese, Indian Chinese. Chacs arc revived !;
some styles having creamy ground over which are scat
tered little Ca boxes jars vases, birds Of Paradise inter-
scrsed with branches of foliage. beautiful novelty in
Nuns yelling, exquIsitey fine wool fabric Of even
warp and of such delicate cOlors as palcst
cream straw and lavender The fabric Is also seen
covered with silk brocade palms leaves unit NJ the
delicate shades and used in combination with the pln
The Zebra stlpe is ap.oy striped fabric Of silk and
wool some new goods clled AOatros CLOTH OF the tex
| turc of flannel aro daek wlne-cOOrs, Indian blue
dusy olive, hellorope and pansy RoHGc 1d1cnope Is
simply tho Turkey red calico OF past away fashion
now 10 he fashionaby this Is all red and aO red
covered with gay yellow black and blue figures IN dots
strpcs on palm leaves The two styles are TO be used
together in a The always popular Serrmdker
dnRhams return again this season. and cambrcs OF PLAN
gray dark blue and lavender coors break ont all over
| in the inevitable white polka spot Scotch einchaln
handkcrchcfs dresses genuine bandanas, mummy cloths
/ h..pf fluga 0r0 nit.f
season as they were year ago.
The favorite Spanish costumes are made OF hne
nearly transparent wool fabric called tole regeuSe. Of
deepest black and must be trimmed with black embroid
cry. Other black dresses nre black grenadines, striped
or polka spotted made up black sains. and exIuis
ely fine black eashmeres, on WHICH polka hpo's uTo e
broidered.
Some excellent woolen suits are ready for Spring
made Of cameps hair. serge. cashmere. dc bego and
English homcspun. These all combined with SILK
Frightened with some gay color In the way or
piping narrow knife-pcating around the edge an In
seron OF bands or cords tassels Elaborate shirr-
ing Is used upon the finest Of these dresses; THIS
tculary noticeable in French buntngs, whereOn the
upper part of the Sleeves the collar aber and ounces
shrrngs OF the same materia or OF SILK OF sa'in
either plain OF the figured Oriental patterns. -
The new and beautiful cotton Grape material Geir de
me- is formidable rival summer fabrics. Il Is
realms the cIinkcd appearance after being washed.
There is tendency to return to the stralght skirt M
srnccitlly arranged oversSrt DO abandoned In fact,
sSna be Of INV oSes isRm e
walking skirt arranged with SOrcd Rklrt, on whioh s
sfi sfrt pSry open Sp The front and moderately Goroa
behind Tne Fnntine Is u pretty Qyerskrt arranged
win double GPTOn hTSs IA ting mdGo sS ~ he on or
nenied with a bunch Of ribbons. The back Is draped
For evening dresses satin IL the favorite material
yeowsh shade OF white satin is eaborateiy trimmed
chu Of the lace placed round the neck Is ornnmried
wn opIss Of sc'e rSa Su1 u S with %S
gauzo embroidered with hone sucke vines ~ natural
coore bouquets holding tho drapery aud placed on
the aud waist are red roses ana yellow cnrysth
themuns by way Of change many ladies' tirel OF the
fashion, which Is certainly very graceful OF placing
single dark red white low ut tho aldo OF The head
lust undor the aud TO cOrrcspond on the cor
sage II rumOred tho Queen has ordered genuine
Irish pODns to be worn again on State and other great
SouSls and terry ThS dierspeo in the arst two con
ss IN Go h1os Of 6S hS FIX n % TSrT & S ry c Is ad
beautiful fabric comblnes happily with Sk push' satin
Some charming dresses. recently imported. OF black
satin have The front covered with net work or lattice
OF cut let Black Drecl0e costumes suggest the abar-
dOnuent Of all drapery, returning to the old fashioned
fun skirt hanging straight from tho band These have
coats made singe'breasted, with wide collar. The
are let open at the waist line. aud the skirts dis
close rich lining Of 3d gold, corcr creaiicoorcd or
olive The quantity OF material required for his
style OF dress II only hItecn ynrds
There movement IN London toward The abandon
mrnt OF tho musk veil. This r. strongly recommended
by physicians ascribc headaches and weakness Of
bandaged tightly the cyce The mystery OF coy.
erng the aud leaving the mouth chin exposed
has never yet been explained graceful lace vtll Is
| talked Of
Jardere cOlorlngs have entered largely into honnets
and hats Hiraws aud chips and dyed rel blue
any shade that VIII match tho gay China silks the
howers aud ribbons that mingo In brightest pruflslon
together The pretty costume bonnet IA noted for It's
qse simplicity. An amateur II taste might make one
Tor eaeh dress OF lalfhandkerchief Of silk or aatin
SONS head chenille fringe. flowers plumes an orna
meDt VI glt or silver, or perhaps 4 bird. These little
fanchcrs however, must only be worn by the tall ana
| confined D-
rectolre or any style Of bonnet having flowing front or
| wide brlm
The parasOla make departure from those OF last
season, III having twelve rcd ribs instead of sixteen,
eighteen nchos III length, nnd placed over the lin
which is faced up inside with the silk form
ing the covering or strongly contrasting border con
Boling of woven edge ora striped baud OF beautiful