The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1880-09-07


HOW TO DREsS.
The Use OF Feathers tn the Fashionable
worid-The Latest Dress Materials
Turnover ColIars-Gorgeous Fans-A
Dainty aud Costly Evening Costume.
TIE "boom" is the name for new
round hat Of felt for little girls.
BRAZILIAN bugs and beetles are used in
profusion upon some fthe Paris bonnets.
SMALL bustles are worn with street cos
tunes aud larger ones with evening tot
lets.
Six distinct shades OF green ale to be
seen upon recently imported bonnet,
not counting it's crown Of shaded green
plumes.
DIREcrolRE collars and dress cuffs Of
black velvet richly EN- broidered in gold
are very stylish and becoming. Some
times an edge OF gold lace is added. They
are also made OF garnet, purple, wine or
dark myrtle green velvet, or brocaded
satin de Lyon, and edged with frill OF
creamy Languedoc lace.
PoRTIA fans are greatly in favor at the
present moment in Paris. They are made
OF ostrich and peacock feathers, and the
plumage OF the golden or Impeyan pheas-
ants. Other feathers are employed, but
these are the iavorites. The centres Of
these fans are sometimes adorned with
heads or wings OF small brilliantcolored
birds.
IN London it Is the fashion to mullle
the throat. Parisians, however, are wear
ing broad turnover collars Of linen and
lace, with the wide ilaring Medicis collars
OF velvet or brocaded satin worn with
them. The collars OF linen are simply
fastened with stud or brooch, and no
how or tie Is worn. AS a rule they are
less becoming than upright and close.
fitting collars. A throat must be well
shaped and not too long II q rundown
collar is TO be becoming.
A VERY pretty travelling dress is made
Of amethyst-colored Indian cashmere. The
bodice is close.fitting and cut very high in
the neck, and is faced down the front
and on the tight coat sleeves from the
elbow to the cuff with gold.colored cord.
The buttons are good imitation Of anne.
thyst studded with gold dots. A brocaded
silk scarf OF the color OF cashmere is
thrown across the skirt, draped into three
upward plaits and loosely knotted at the
side. The front OF the underskirt is killed,
and the back is trimmed with narrow
ruiIles OF the brocade. A lace panel
separates the two styles OF trimming.
The elegance, economy and variety, no
dress will so certainly combine those ex-
cellent qualities as one Of velvet, made
walking length, with a close-6tting bodice
and killed skirt. This dress is the foun-
dalton for many changes, as black vel.
vet underskirt can be worn with an over
drapery OF any color and OF any rich mate
rial. a Lois velveteen OF English manu-
facture has recently been introduced into
the market which has won the favor OF the
most severe Partisan critics. In texture
aud appearance II bears the closest resem.
blance TO the best Lyons silk velvet, and
the manufacturers say that 1t neither turns
rusty with wear nor changes Its color.
Dress materials will be OF the most ele-
CANT description this season. The change
able silks and changeable uncut velyets
are maryels OF richness and beauty; bro
caded satins and embossed and plain vel
vets OF every hue and pattern are to be
seen. For evening dresses there are mag.
nificent satin fabrics in pale colors or
white heavily embossed in large iloriated
or arabesque designs in white velvet.
In some OF the brocaded materials the
most vivid contrasts oil colors are intro
duced. We see, for instance, the most
brilliant shades OF red used in conjunc-
lion with dark blue-the red being OF vel
vet, and the blue Of monochrome brocade.
Old red satin Is made in conjunction with
pompadonr Pekin brocade In stripe OF
sky blue cut velvet alternating with a
stripe in floral vine Of natural clors.
An evening dress Just received from
Paris is OF pale blue brocaded silk, tur-
onoise blue satin and white tulle. The
front OF the dress is OF the brocade, over
which is gracefully draped soft folds Of the
tulle. Over this again wide tabs Of the
satin are crossed and fastened In the mid
die with clusters OF iorget-me-nots and
| lilies OF the valley. There are four Of
these tabs, and the bottom Of the skirt il
fastened with notched.out band OF blue
satin corded with the brocade and finished
with deep auting Of white tulle. This
trimming Is continued also at the bottom
Of the back OF the skirt, which is then
covered up TO the basque with full bull
| lions OF the tulle. Thesquare low cuirassG
bodice Is OF brocaded silk with narrow
plaslron OF plain blue satin in front. Tht
sleeves are short, and there IS white lace
trimming around the top OF the bodice anC
the sleeves. Epaulets OF iorgetme.notl
and lilies are placed on the shoulders ant
a cluster at the left side OF the waist.
onRrou feathers will form large par
of the Rarniture on fall and winter bon
nets. Shaded, beaded and gold-tippet
feathers will be most worn. Some OF tn
shaded feathers have three or four distinc
combinations OF colors, as for example
white feather shading into mauve, thel
into canary color, aud terminating at tn
In In rich purple. Very elegant ianc,
feathers are pompons, coques, paroquett
the breasts OF gold and silver pheasantl
bronze merle heads and plumage. Birds c
!. paradise, orioles, English robins and gol
| finches are also very fashionable. SomI
times the head Of an Impayan pheasant
! attached to the tuited wing Of some othe
, bird Of brilliant plumage. Peacocks' teati
) ers in the shape oil bands, crowns an
r aisrettes, will be very popular-accordin
' In their shaded hues with the new tints
4 fashionable green. Very beautiful feau
/ ers are manufactured In the new Persia
i elIats and smooth satin.like breasts wit
+ graceful dropping skeleton feathers a
it tached, Of rich plum, wine or olive
n shading into the very darkest hues
y these tasteful colors-are also exhibits
These feathers will be chosen by q larl
1t class Of ladies who prefer quiet colors az
l: shapes in bonnet garniture 70 the hues ar
d sly les adopted by ladies Of more errat
T. tastes.