The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1880-04-21


tives inhabit-made up of elegant squares
French and Italian residents, who prefer
this city to Paris, Naples, or Rome The
European side of the city is attractive
enough, with its stately mansions and
wide boulevards, but the native Egyptian
side is far more interesting to the visitor,
because of its strictly oriental character,
and the scenes hourly witnessed in
the streets, recalling to mind the per-
sonages with which the most charming
of romances made us familiar in our
childhood in another oriental city-the
ancient capital of Haroun Al Raschid
Nothing can be more unlike what one
old time streets of Cairo They are never
straight, but meander about so as to per-
petually present what Hogarth calls 9" the
curved line of beauty" Many Of them
are so narrow that two carriages can
barely pass each other, while other streets
are available for foot passengers only.
The far-famed bazars of the workers in
gold and silver, and of the sellers of
thousand gorgeous stuffs from all parts of
the orient are here to be found. The
shops are very small, and the owner sits
cross-legged, on carpet on the floor,
peacefully smoking his pipe with long
flexible tube There is placid calm in
his manner, not unmingled with a quiet
dignity. There is none of the officious
putting of goods or opportunities to buy
so common elsewhere. A devout silence
reigns over the counters of the Moslem
merchants-a mosque-like tranquility, as
# he was absorbed in holy meditation
You select something and ask the price
He names sum at least twice the value
of the article You offer him one-half
the amount demanded, but he informs you
in tone that seems to preclude farther
discussion that he cannot possibly take
1t. You withdraw a few steps as if you
were about to go away, when the mer-
chant informs you that you can have it at
your price, and this he does with the air
OF a man suddenly taken with the collie,
or perhaps he utters plaintive cry at
seeing his goods sold at such sacrifice
his profits not being over fifty per cent
Here in these narrow streets you enjoy
an endless panorama Of commingled races,
clad In oriental costumes ordinarily of
bright colors, red and yellow predomina-
ting 1t is wonderful that there are not
more accidents, considering the fact that
there are no sidewalks. Camels, horses.
donkeys, vehicles, foot passengers, all
mingled in apparently inextricable con-
fusion, and yet there are no collisions.
The carriages of the more wealthy are
always preceded by one and oftener by
two runners, clad in flowing white frocks
fastened around the waist with broad
bright sashes. The legs are bare from
the knee down, and the feet encased in
yellow slippers Each runner carries a
long wand in his hand, and his Office is
to clear the way for the carriage. This
ne does with warning cries and many OBJ
Jurgatons. | was one day riding in
carriage without a runner in advance
and the driver had to do the shouting
a little boy bearing heavy load on his
head was slow in getting out Of the way
and the driver made savage cut at him
with his whip, at the same time utteripg
some Arabic words that sounded so much
like malediction that / asked DR.. Ian
sing, who was riding with me, what he
said. The Doctor informed me that it
was this, Can't you get out of the way,
y boy, when call to you thousand
times? Cursed be your fatherP All
kinds of trades are prosecuted on the
sidewalks, where there are any, or in the
little open shops without doors. in full
view of passers by; BARRIERS shaving the
boards or cutting the hair of their Gus
toners, tailors sewing garments, black
smiths shoeing horses and donkeys, car
penters at work with their primitive
tools, undisturbed by the throngs which
are flowing by in ceaseless professions.
The upper stories of the houses project
over the lower, while from the tops of
the fiat roofs boards are laid across from
side to side, making complete covering,
thus securing shade and coolness to the
narrow streets beneath. No women are
seen engaged in trade. None are en-
ployed about the hotels in any capacity,
and they are wonderfully we'll kept con-
slderlng the fact, that all the rooms of
guests are kept in order and the beds made
by Egyptian boys These cinnamon col
ored lads, without being as fragrant as
that aromatic bark, seem to be perfectly
honest. have not locked my room door
since came to Cairo Ny clothes have
been taken from my trunk and placed in
the bureau drawers and the keys left in
IL