The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-03-25
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions,


heavy thick ruche, or else a cluster of narrow
pleatings. The idea in such costumes seems to
be that of dispensing with all drapery, and Civ
| ing the desired roundness by the fullness Of the
skirt, also by the richness of the material used
in the skirt The fancy for Directoire styles
has brought this undraped toilette ir to fashion,
and it has also contributed the exaggerated
rcvers collar and pockets which belong to the
| Directoire costumes. Brocade is chosen for the
| long coat and either plain satin, silk of heavy
| quality, satin de Lyon, velvet for the skirt
| Black Directoire suits very stylish, with
| facings of satin, either red, cream color, or
| heliotrope, showing on the coat. Single
| breasted coats have the wide notched Di-
rectoire collar set on, while those with double
breast have it CIT as part of the coat The seam
at the waist line, with the pockets set there, is
used to give short WASTED appearance. The
back is made of the two middle forms; and
short side body on each side beginning in the
armhole. Below the waist line the seams are 10 IT
open and, the skirts are lined with colored
twled silk, or else satin this gives four straight
hanging pieces of the coat skirt. Two large but
tons OF enamel or of bronze or else painted
pearl, define the waist in the middle seams of
the back, and under these buttons the waist
line seam begins as the middle back forms
are the only ones that are continuous. The
skirt has four straight breadths, and single
gored breadth, which is in front. The width
at the bottom is about four yards. Sometimes
Innings, and indeed weights, are added to
these skirts; but this is superfiuous, as most
ladies take great comfort in the slight weight
of these new costumes and also in tba foot tbot
fifteen yards are now sufficient, when for
merly from twenty to twenty-five were re-
quired. A broad band of the brocade will
serve for trimming at the bottom, or when
economy is the first requisite, the skirt
may be left quite plain; but there is much
p-ettier effect given when wide ruche or a
cluster of three or four fine knife-pleatings
borders the skirt A black brocaded satin
surtout, lined with lavender satin, and worn
over full skirt of plain satin de Lyon makes
avery rich costume for the street. Dark green
brocade is very handsome faced with cream or
old gold, or else with red satin, and a pleating
OF the red satin is then placed around the foot
of the green skirt by way of illumination"
Beaded cords, with passementerie spikes rather
than tassels at the end, are draped around the
hips to hang in front or on the left side.
Sometimes a beaded fabric is used for the
Directoire collar, cuffs and pocket flaps of
plain black satin coats.
Ladies who object to surtout suits because
they are not used in the house, as many short
dresses now are, have brocaded skirted coats
OF medium length, with plain silk or satin de
Lyon skirts trimmed with brocade like the
coat. IIength-wise trimmings of brocade are
CONSIDERED most effective, such as an entire
front breadth cut out in forked tongues at the
lower edge, and made to rest there at the foot
upon two or three fine knife-peatings, which
are also continued across the side cores and
sometimes all around the skirt. A brocaded
panel revers on each side gore, showing fac
ings of satin its whole length, is another de-
sign for trimming such skirts; the front
breadth is then wrinkied slightly, and the back
is covered by Two straight breadths shirred in
clusters, or at most very irregularly draped;
for stout ladies two and half or indeed three
full breadths are sometimes worn, hanging
straight and plain in the back, with very deem
shirring on the tournure. Apron effects,
shirred scarfs, and moderate paniers are, how
ever, still used by those to whom they are be.
coming, and they will remain popular during
the summer because they are so we'll adapted
to grenadines, fine buntings, and other trans
parent fabrics. The Tallien overskirt, open
up the left side, and scarfs that hang in ORR
entail style down the left side, where they end
in tassels, are favorite designs for such drap-
ings.
The turbans for Spring are either round hats
or bonnets, according to the presence or alb
sence of strings, and are worn in French fash
ion further back on the head than has been
customary here A chip or Tuscan braid crown
with puff of heliotrope satin for the brim is
one of the simple and stylish illustrations of
this hat, while still palmer vet yery dressv
style has the brim turned up closely round the
crown, plainly covered with pale gray velvet,
some velvet folds higher up, and two or three
curved ostrich tips nodding outward and back
ward from the crown. This hat is set back ON
inn fha -
showing the thick tresses that are now curled
on the forehead; this is far more effective than
when the turban is drawn down over the lore
head almost to the eyebrows. Black chip tur-
bans are trimmed with black grenadine that
has velvet polka dots; a long gold-headed pin
is thrust through one side, and there is large
satin bow behind, also two black ostrich tips
The heliotropa colors that promise to be chos-
en- by renned tastes are now brought out in In
da muslins to be used for bonnet trimmings:
this muslin is edged with very yellow Langue-
doc lace, and used with yellow flowers, such as
Jonquils, narcissus, or roses. Feathers will be
very much used on large Summer bonnets that
Will be worn at the watering places for small
bonnets flowers will be preferred While Pa
risiennes wear turbans further back than Amer
leans do they reverse this. with all other
shapes, especially with small cottage bonnets,
and thus they dispense with all face trimming
Lace dropping over the edge Of the close brim
and falling on the hair is popular, because it is
becoming to all faces; the Spanish lace and the
tetted Breton laces are most used in this way
Black Spanish lace bonnets will doubtless be
the favorite OF the Spring, as they have been
worn for dressy occasions all Winter. For the
demi-season ostrich tips will be used to enliyen
them, while flowers will be worn ON them all
through the Summer. For full-dress afternoon
receptions white lace bonnets with pearl and
opal ornaments are now most in favor.
New parasols for spring and summer are of
medium size, with ribs eighteen inches in
length; There are only twelve of these ribs,
instead OF sixteen, the number used last year;
and instead of being g.lded they are painted
red, and are placed outside the lining, where
they are displayed conspicuously. The para
soils are not in canopy shape, yet are not nearly
so flat as the Japanese shapes used last sum-
mes. The lining follows the outside silk and
is between it and the red ribs The novelty is
to have wide border ON the Innings; some
times it is woven in. Changeable silks are
much used for Innings, especially in mixtures
OF yellow and red that are called sunset 81 lks.
Red silk Innings are perhaps more used than
any other color, and the border may be a striped
band, or else in cashmere colors and designs
ring is tied to the top Of the parasol and this is
pushed down upon 1T when it is closed, to hold
1t In place. A ball tassel is also new orna-
ment, which is tied to the outside by string.
Some have rosettes Of narrow ribbon tied near
the top, and again on the handle, and some
very fanciful parasols have bunch of artificial
flowers fastened on one gore.
Levantine (which is soft twilled sik,) lus-
trous satin, brocaded silk, satin foulard, ecru
pongee, are the fabrics most used for the out
side of parasols. Spanish lace, both black aud
white, cashmere lace of many colors, and
fringes, are the the trimmings; chenille fringe
and the curled tape fringes are the most effect
i've. Natural sticks of light woods are used
for handles, such as the English oak, which
has green shades on its pale ecru colors WEIGH
sci sticks are also much used The knobs or
crooks at the end are of Longwy faience. or Of
closonne enamel, with bands to match or else
OF Dresden China Lady-bugs flies, and bees
OF most natural colors are stuck about on the
oaken handles
AVisit to Andersonville.