Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1880-02-05

EhSAAAOhAS AOE SBEAAks
Harper's Bazsr.l
The shirred polonaise and short
skirt is one of the first designs i'm
ported for spring dresses, and is given
at this early day as a guide for ladies
who do their own sewing and make up
their simple dresses in advance of the
season. This graceful model is in
great favor with French modistes, who
use it for light wooden fabrics, such as
summer cashmeres, French bunting,
and debege, also for plain grenadines,
as well as for the beautiful cotton
goods that were so popular last year
the mummy cloth, gingham, lawn, per-
Gales, nansook, and the various new
fabrics for the coming spring that are
chronicled further on in this article.
The full blouse effect is given to the
front of this overdress by the rows of
stirring now so popular; and al this is
confined to the front, this garment is
becoming to all fgures-to the slender
and the plump alike. The fullness is
in the outside goods only, not in the
lining, and the shirring is stayed
in basque shape on the
lining which goes beneath it. The
front extends very far back on the
sides, and its skirt is joined to the
graceful drapery of the middle back.
The two pieces are made in one when
double-width goods is used, and this
prevents having extra seams in the
side skirt, though there are two
seams at the top going into the arm
hole beyond the dart proper. There is
one long seam from the shoulder,
joining the middle back form to that
next it. These forms are then cut.
and after the becoming Marguerite
effect is produced the full drapery of
the skirt is attached in soft folds and
pleats that differ on each side. If the
wool goods used is heavy enough, all
trimmings but machine stitching can
be dispensed with, as there is no more
stylish way Of finishing cashmeres
and the thicker qualities of French
bunting. Mourning dresses of ia mise
cloth will also be made by this pat
tern, and merely stitched on the
edges.
The Prince Albert basque suit is one
ofthe masculine, ooat-shaped basques
now SO fashionable, and which will
form a part of spring costumes that
are considered complete without a
wrap. Oriental cashmere of many
colofs combined is used for the BASQUE
and panier drapery, but the same de-
sign IS also made up in the brocaded
silks, satins, and satin de Lyon of "A
single color, or else black: indeed.
there is no better model for the black
silk and black brocaded suit that is snow
part of almost every lady's wardrobe.
instead Of the dress entirely of plain
black silk formerly worn. The elab-
orately trimmed skirt is very hand
some for rich costumes, and velvet is
now used almost as much in summer
as in winter. yet many stylish suits
have perfectly plain skirts with the
panier drapery and Prince Albert
basque. For such skirts plain stuffs
are used more than those with figures.
and these are of rich quality, such as
satin, velvet, or satin de Lyon. Plain
silk skirts, however, are not often
made,a as theydo not look heavy enough.
unless trimmed on the edge with a
box-pleating of velvet or satin peep.
ing out from under the braid binding
Large and snowy buttons are chosen
for the eoat-like Prince Albert
basque.
Agirl'ssuitis cutwith panier BASQUE
Of figured cashmere, and there is a
piece Of the same arranged on the
back OF the skirt to give it the effect
OF overskirt drapery. The front and
sides OF the skirt are covered with
pleating Of plain cashmere. The
basque is made double breasted by \
lap being sewed down the middle and
buttoned on the left side. The panier
drapery is sewed permanently lust
above the edge of the basque ON
the front and sides, and disappears
behind in the seam that Joins the mid.
die back to the side back. This little
dress will be pretty made of the pea.
cock blue bunting and figured cash.
meres to be worn in the spring. The
Vandyek sacque may be of the dress
material or else of brocaded cloth OF
Of brocaded silk. If quite snugly
fitted to the figure it will serve with
an oyerdress, with various skirts
trimmed with hounces, or else quite
plain, and thus variety will be given
to the wardrobe. White embroidered
pique dresses are made complete with
this Vandyck sacque aud a skirt trim.
med with embroidered rufies. The
new japanese cottons, mummy cloth
in gay figures, and percales will be
made up for young girls and misses
oyerdresses, with skirts of a single
color of the same cotton fabric nearly
covered with pleated aounces.
SPRING MILLINERY.
The first importation Of millinery
for the spring is made up of medium.
sized bonnets, turbans and wide brim.
med round hats The yallrw T,....