Lexington weekly intelligencer. (Lexington, Mo.) 1871-1887, 1880-10-09
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
FALL WRAPS.

FALL hAfo.
EDITOR INTELLIeENCER:-T influ
ence Of the dolmal is felt throughout
the world of outdoor garments. True.
there arc such things as jackets in ex-
istence, and they are fashionable, too ;
but for one of these fear to say how
many fall wraps are characterized by
the peculiar features of the dolman. 1t
is true. likewise, that the newer name
of s'visite' is constantly given, but. al
ter all, It's but 8 name. And thirdly,
morever, it is trte that the dolman or
visite of to-day differs materially from
what it once was; but this is so much
the better, because the good points are
retained and the Objectionable discard
ed. There is al elegance in a dolman
which Is not possi6ie In jacket, and
now that certain ''happingness." ex-
cuse me tor colIing a word, has given
way to notifications of shape by which
it hangs so closely to the figure as a
jacket, there is nothing more handsome or
more becoming. In View OF cold wealth
er. styles are long, and if you ask US for
a desirable model, l would say ''the
Zerah." A jacket is certainly more
jaunty and one of the most striking nov
cities in this line is the LangtrT casaque.
Nearly tight fitting, it is slight. double
breasted, and the same goods as the
garment or III contrast. Circus ar wraps
are affected by doiman ideas some OF
the newest being fitted to tie figure
and with armholes. But the genuine
circular is net yet thrown aside, 1t you
have one wear it, but do not make up
new material in a shape that's on the
! wane.
STYLES OF MAKING
The Jersey is a startling novelty; so
much SO that it is as yet doubtful whether
it will be worn by any but { few who
delight in whatever is conspicuous.
This new garment is woventhroughout
OF heavy silk or wool dyed inIashionable
colors, such as garnet. plum, dark blue,
etc. 1t is intended to be wrn in place
of basque and fitting like wax, gives
especial opportunity for the show off of
fine figure. Reaching high about the
throat, it is finished with ribbing, and
ribbing appears also at the wrists. Now
the very existence of The jersey is proof
that costumes close around the hips will
remain in vogue. We all Ire aware
of the Inauguration of round waists
with full skirts hanging, psrtly or en-
tirely plain styles punched on the hips
are still seen, and all OF the above ideas
are kept separate. intermlnged or mod
flied. until one can hardly say what is
fashionable and what is not. Then, too.
we observe polonaises, oveskirts and
basques, trimmed and untrimmed
skirts, so really there is no end of lib
erty. The Violetta costune-a tight
fitting polonalse reaching 70 the bottom
OF the skirt at the sides ard looped high
in the middle OF the backs combined
with a short walking skirt, plain in
front and at the sides, and plated full
at the back. The Castillo overskirt Is
arranged with a double apron, draped
in the middle and falling in two points,
producing the effect OF panniers and the
back draped IN q simple and graceful
m If ia i,la for nj al nt
goods. and,with the Leila basque, would
be especially adapted to cloth CO.'S
tune. The Valentino train has long.
pointed apron and pane;s at the sides
with full, long train at the back.
ACCEsSIoNS.
Lace is now an important part ol
woman's dress; being much more free
!y used than formerly. This, doubt
less, is owing to the success of Burton
and Languedoc. and so manufacturers
have, this fall, introduced some charm.
ing varieties. Puzzled how to describe
them, have bethought me OF the illus.
trations in Lord & Tay lor's catalogue
which lies by me. They are beautifully
accurate; the white laceS are portrayed
on dark surfaces with such clearness
and delicacy that it seems as if they
could be handled. Send postal asking
for copy, and You VII see not only IL
lustratlons, but the new ways OF making
up kerchiets, .iabots, etc. l recommend
this, also, because there Is so mucf
more to be written OF than | can men
ton, and if | may refer you to guido
which will inform You on many points
have lett untouched. tits all the bette
lor both OF us. My conscience is re
| lieved and You are benefited, partlcu
| larly rs you are put to no expense
The other day Mrs A. T. Stewar
| wore q costume the jet trimmings upor
which cost $500 This is one anon,
many evidences of the popularity of Jet
frlnges and passementerles compose,
entirely OF it, or intermlngled with silk
are very fashionable, as well also rs tn,
passementerie medallions that are
feature OF the day. Trimmings of ma
terial are much used. and here the sty e
are in great measure the same as tor
merly-plai!ings. .shlrrlngs or gaugings
Kilt plaits are quite wide, but box plat
are quite narrow. and knife plaits ar
either plain or in she'll designs. Fo
cloth or flannel costumes rows of ma
chime stitching are much liked, and TO
costumes OF al! kinds, cords have un
usual prestige, hanging or loopcd il
any way that seems tasteful. Button
are more tanciul than ever, and th
limit suitable for street wear are the Gi
mensions of trade dollar. And i,
parting | would say, don't neglect tn
accessories OF Your Dress Tor, as San
Weller says, Its the seasoning a
does it, LUCY CAETER.
BILL ARP ON THE PRESS.