Sacramento daily record-union. [volume] (Sacramento [Calif.]) 1875-1891, 1880-02-07
Some Secrets Of a French Kitchen.

To begin with, there are certain delicious
little cake loaves, called, / believe,
tortolong at least, that was Babette's
name for them-which l have never met
with in England, but which will DE remem-
bered gratefully by many of our friends
who have resided in France. They are
exceedingly light and delicate, and usually
make their appearance In the form of
linked rings or figures OF s with the early
mornings coffee or MONDAY chocolate. |
believe there are several inferior members
of this particular section of the "petits
pains " family but here is Babette's own
method of making the very best kind, and
do not see any reason why Jane or Betsy
should not be able, with a little practice
and few failures to turn out as tempting
a batch now and then for the benefit
of those who enjoy such dainty, light
things in preference to slices from our very
solid and satisfying British half-quartern
or somewhat unwholesome penny roll;
Babette set to work with, for instance,
three pounds of -four, half pound of but
ter, six ounces of powdered sugar, and
dozen eggs, mixing the whole most thor
oughly, and not forgetting to scatter about
a "suspicion" of salt those were her
own words) / must leave you to find
cut what quantity this represented. When
she had stirred it all to her hearts con-
tent-mind, this was not done very soon
she proceeded to roll the dough into
long, thin, sausage-lke shape, and cut it
into lengths of about four inches. These
she bent into rings, which she linked two
and two together, neatly joining the ends
by folding over and pressing them lightly
into one. Then when some half dozen
were ready for the oven. as l thought,
Babette cody flung them into
large stew-pan half full of boiling
water, which stood ready on the fire.
They at once sank out of sight, but pres
emily reappeared floating on the bubbling
surface. She at once whisked them out
with fiat spoon, and popped them into
bowl of cold water, where she left them to
soak while she went on rolling, twisting
and linking more rings and elghts, which,
one at time, were dropped into the boil
ing stew-pan, then in cold water, where
they were allowed to remain in soak.
But, Babette, why don you finish them %
l asked, seeing her turn away presently as
though her task was finished. The bonnie
explained that they were finished as far as
tO-udJ WtHO IO-luOiloW,
breakfast time, she would take them out of
their cold bath, drain them as dry as pos
sible in sieve, put them on that thin sheet
of iron which slipped so easily into the
oven, and let them bake until they were of
that pretty light brown which madame ad-
mired so much. The oven must be very hot
and she (Babette) must watch closely to see
that they pulled and grew big and light
enough for if at all overdone OF burned
they would be detestable and unpresenta-
ble-a disgrace which, according to the en-
ergetic old lady's account, she could never
survive for one little moment. Another
thing which Babette made to perfection
was the understanding, delicate and tempt.
ing "brioche that nearest French repre-
sentative Of the English bun and the
Scotch cookie, but refined representative,
being neither puffy, brown nor indigesti-
BILE. They are beginning to take their
place in the best English coneectioners'
On the Continent they are found every
where, and much favored by our country
men, who generally know good and
Wholesome thing when they get it, and why
| they should not get this particularly
good thing at home as well as abroad, at
their own tables as well as in a shop, l can
not quite see. At any rate l will do my
| best to make this excellent little cake
loaf better known by telling you how old
Babette proceeded when she meant to give
us brooches for breakfast or luncheon
next day, as the dough, when mixed, has
to stand at least twelve hours before bak-
ing. First she provided herself with, let
us say, one pound and half of -four, one
pound of good butter-a thing which
Babette was always most particular about
twelve ounces of sugar, rather over one
ounce of German yeast little salt, and
about ten eggs. She spread about fourth
of the -four upon her board, and, having
dissolved the yeast in enough tepid water
to mix the -four into paste, she poured
this into it, and kneaded it thoroughly into
stiff ball of dough, which she then
scored with knife and placed in large
pan, which, having covered, she put in a
warm place to ferment, or, as the bakers
call it, to set the sponge, while she proceed
ed to mix the rest of the ingredients The
remaining -four. was now spread ON her
board, and well or hollow place made in
it. into which she put the sugar and salt,
mixed together in little cold water then
the butter and eggs followed the rest, to
be stirred or worked together by Babette's
strong fist, who rubbed and rolled and
passed the whole most carefully through
her hand that no ugly Jumps should remain
unnoticed to tell OF a careless cook. By
the time all this was sufficiently mixed, the
"sponge," which had risen and spread and
pulled up to three times its original size,
was pronounced ready for use, and spread
on the paste, with which it was carefully
mixed and kneaded, then the whole lump
placed upon cloth spread in large
wooden bowl, over which handful of -four
had been shaken, more -four scattered on
the top, and the whole being covered with
towel, the bowl was set in cool corner
i and left TO work as il would. Our