The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1880-05-19
specisr corresDondence of the sta.

Special correspondence of the STAR
New YORK, May II.
A great variety of black materials is
to be seen this spring, and it is more
than probable that all will play prom
ipent part in the fashions. There are
grenadines with moire antique stripes
with large damasse designs on their
grounds, and very fine dots on the same.
There is, also, a fine. canvas material,
which is soft, and something like the
old-fashioned double barege; it is called
s'voiIe." These light fabrics are used
both for short walking dresses and ele-
giant evening toilets. They are trimmed
with jet, beaded embroidery, lace plait-
inas, and ribbon loops. The loops are
generally Of double-faced moire antique,
with famile satin, made long and sewed
perfectly fiat to the dress
Black and white trimmings are very
suitable for this style of toilet, such aa
white and black lace mixed, or with
fringe under the lace, or even with only
black and white double-faced ribbon.
Some ladies who have unusually fine
figures, wear princess-cut dresses. trimmed
around the lower border with plaitings,
fringes, or ruchings, which extend up
the middle in front. where there are also
ribbon loops. This style, with the addi-
ton of Valenciennes ruehing around
the neck, is Sara Bernhardt's favorite
style of dress; her attire is Of velvet,
satin, or pekin, but always blackor white.
The black and white fabrics, made Of
light tissues, which are worn by this fa-
nous actress have draperies and trim
mings replacing the bands Of feathers and
fur, and made of lace, fringe, Or woven
marabout. The dress is always cut prin-
cess style. All tastes can be satisfied
with the present fashions, and il short
toilets are preferred to the above de-
scribed long ones, there is an endless va
riety of the latter to be selected from.
Many of the long skirts are now draped
in puffs, and in different ways, so as to
make short skirts without cutting them.
Square trains are best suited to this pur-
pose; they are raised by means of few
stitches or buttons.
The bright-cofored plaitings which are
placed under black or white dresses are
of red, blue, pink, or mauve-colored
satin. They must be placed so as tc
show very little, only, in fact, when
walking. The color generally cores
ponds with that of the Lisle-thread OF
silk hose worn with all dressy suits. II
is still the fashion for every article Of
dress to correspond with the suit worn
For instance, with mauve-colored toile
the trimmings are ina darker shade
passementeries and friuges are shadet
from light mauve to dark purple. Th'
stockings are purple, the sun-shade o
parasol has mauve ground, with viole
stripes. The straw bonnet is trimmet
with pansy-colored plumes and mauve
colored ribbons.
The bright-colored foulards and per
Gales in red and yellow, with broa'
stripes and caehemire designs, are NOR
suitable for coIored underskirts, to b
covered with black or dark tuniques 0
various wooden fabrics, than for any othe
purpose. Only very experienced dress
makers succeed with these materials
dresses made by an unskiIled hand ar
failures. The fancy materials such a
Oriental designs ON sapphire or "Titian
groundings, or pompadour pekins, are a
present emily used for skirts and trim
(mings, with plain gray or beige cache
mire. Many of the fabrics now used al
employed in this manner, The Who'll
beauty of these fancy articles depends 0
the style in which they are made. If
toilet is peculiar it must be handsome
becoming, and of perfect cut.
| Almost all Partisan bonnets hav
mauve or purple trimmings. Nearly a.
capotes are trimmed with flower
Plumes will be more used for roun
hats. Among the flowers most in US
are velvet and silk pansies, violets, Gov
slips, gillyfiowers, and punches Of lilac
Very few roses are used. These fowel
are arranged in very fiat garlands, an
placed around the brins of the bonnet
There are few other eolors worn beside
mauve. The most favored, however, al
brass, sulphur, fire. and caroubier. Th
ribbon and flowers match in color. Man
shaded plumes are used. Some comment
with garnet and end in orange fire colo
all the different shades coming betweel
A small black straw capote worthy (
mention sits lightly, and is placed rath'
!, back on the head, showing the fiat bal
, deaus of hair; it is trimmed with fir
r golden lace. tf. l.
:, Placed very fiat on the left side a.
tive branches of lilacs, which fall vel
low on the neck. Another shape is
, : kind of pointed capote, with the crow
! covered with many-colored beads al
the brim trimmed with old gold-colore
"surah satine." On the side are O
gold-colored plumes and broad strings
the same surah. A very becoming sty
: worn this season is the Fanehon, mat
q of some light fabric, such as gauze
& blon,lo Tho o;f,,ra ic trim m ad wi N