Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-03-11
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Spring Millinery.


shapes of bonnets, and those of medium
sizes, neither very large nor very small,
are most seen at present. Poke shapes
OF the moderate sizes are very largely
imported in all the various braids, such
as tuscan, chip, lace straw, English
split straw, satin braids, and Ieghorns.
The creamy yellow Tuscan braids and
tile lustrous satin straws are very hand
some, and promise TO be the leading
fabrics. The lace straws are open braids
in beautiful lace-like designs, and appear
to be much stronger than the frail straw
laces formerly used. Sometimes the
brim only Is striped with this lace,
while the crown is of more solid braid,
such MS chip or Tuscan. A special
novelty is the cashmere effects given 70
ored threads in the lace-like design;
pale blue, heliotrope. and red threads
are very effective when combined with
the natural hue of the straw. There
are also mottled effects of color given to
chip hats to match the costume with
which they are to be worn, and some
times two shades of colored chip form
alternate stripes all around the bonnet
these are excellent for morning wear or
for travelling bonnets in two shades Of
brown, beige, lavender, gray. or green.
Black chip bonnets have merely the
crown of chip, while the scoop brim and
the curtain are formed OF straw lace,
which is heavily beaded with fine let
beads; sometimes old gold straw is ar
ranged in stripes in the black chip bon
nets.
Ribbons will be much used for trim
ming bonnets, and for this purpose they
are shown in three widths, known TO
dealers as Nos. 7, ~ and %, and var wing
from one and "A half to three inches in
breadth. Satin ribbons are shown in
great variety, and are especially hand
some when double-faced in the new way
that makes the wrong side exactly like
the right, or rather does away with n
wrong side altogether, so that the rib
bon may be turned and twisted i'm any
fashion, which is desirable thing and
withal economical in making bows,
loops and rosettes. Striped ribbons are
also shown in two shades of satin, or
else in contrasting colors in most capri
cious arrangements, such rs bronze with
gold, or else sapphire blue with gold,
pink with blue, garnet with cardinal, or
red with old gold. The new colors that
are developed in these importations are
Isabelle yellow the historical Spanish
color-pheasant brown, and new shades
call the lilac. lavender, mauve. violet
and heliotrope tints. For millinery purS
poses the old fashioned lustering ribbons
are revived; these are of the smooth
silks which the French call taffetas. and
are DOW shown with tape-like borders,
or with feathery edges, in many of the
styles used twenty years ago. They are
very pretty in coachman's drab, argent
and pheasant brown shades. Very soft
satin duchesse or merUeiLle,Lse ribbons
have changeable colors through the cen
ter, with border stripe Of full satin on
the edges. Again, there are armure-
striped ribbons that are double faced.
satin and gros grain. with the stripe like
a broken cord. The Oriental figured
ribbons come in new quaint colors that
are more nearly modelled after the Jap
ancse than the cashmere colors of the
winter. Very rich Gobelin ribbons are
shown that appear to be literal copies of
stripes of old tapestries, and there are
polka dotted and damasse ribbons of
endless varieties that have but one thing
in common, viz, the soft pliableness
that makes them easily twisted and
turned into knots and bows. Expert
enced milliners write from Paris of the
decided preference among designers for
the pheasant brown shades that com.
bine well with all shades of buff. such
rs Tuscan and Isabelle, and of the light
purple tints. The soft silks for trim
ming the crowns of bonnets come in the
twilled lustrous fabrics known as satin
duchesse, or as satin sublime. and are
represented in light cashmere combina-
tions rs well rs in the new plain colors.
Fichus and barbcs of black or of white
Spanis! lace are To he used to drape
summer bonnets, just as they have been
seen during the winter on opera bonnets.
A chapter might he written on the
old-fashioned flowers that artistic dress
ing has brought into use. Those with
yellow and red shades predominate,
and include the marigold. sunflower.
dandelion, buttercups, carnations. as
ters, dahlias and other stiff. pctaled
flowers; chrysanthemums, poppics and
peonies-not of the largest sizes-are
copied to perfection, and the great
crushed roses without foliage are shown
in every shade that nature has ever pre-
sented them, from the palest tea-rose to
the darkest red damask roses. The large
flowers are commended for corsage bou-
quets; but tasteful milliners know that
the most graceful trimmings for bon
nets are made up of fine flowers, such rs
heliotrope, myosotis, mignonette. vio- !
lets and pansies, with merely one or two |
large flowers 20 give the rich coloring |
required now by fashion.
Ostrich feathers come In the three |
small tips that represent the three nod |
ding feathers of the Prince of Wales, and |
are now in different shades Of one color |
rather than in the contrasting colors |
that were too much in the feather duster |
style; thess are very handsome when |
showing cream, Tuscan and Isabelle |
shades. or else graded from beige to |
pleasant brown. or from pearl to hello |
trope. These nodding plumes are chosen
for Tuscan and chip hats, while for the |
more full-dress lace bonnets are the |
light fluffy marabout feathers of deli |
cate hue, tipped on the edges with |
cashmere colors. For walking bonnets
in turban shape, and for round hats. are
Dtiff feathers mounted breast feathers |
and wings that pass around the front |
and sides of the crown, and cutirclv trim |