New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-08-30
Sur commando.
On nnrfn On NLlIn

Sur commando
On porte yillc
This srn appears on a white back ground next the
door which formerly showed the words:
I'm grand Dol cafe-au-lat pour cents
Ascending the rIckcty wooden stairs at the cor
ner which are protected by an elaoUately orna-
mented railing-a memento of better days-one en-
ters the restaurant. 1t consists OF long. hlgh
din.y room, whose large windows. broad case
menis aud once prctcntious cornces hlnt that the
room NAV have been formerly the parlOr OF some
wealthy Ncw-Yori merchant who then considered
that he was living far uptown. On he walls hang
cheap Iii Autographs and chrOmos, among which the
faces OF Washington and Hayes appear. At one end
IA gaIy design representing the French Republic.
A martial but distressed woman Is Drecarously
poised on high monument, which is apparently
supported by some brilliantly uniformed soldiers
aud sailors. In the corners OF the room appear some
dusty statuetles. Wooden tables covered with a
KIND of oiled cloth ranged along the sides of the
restaurant, each table containing four heavy glass
tumbeIs. SIX strong wooden CHAIRS at Il table
complete the furniture. rough sidcboard ard sink
occupy one OF the iurtner eoIneis, whle the other
Is ralled off, the space behind being entered by
little gaze. Here Madame usually sits placdy knit
ting when she Is not occupied by the cares OF the
cuisine. Between the sink and the counter is door
over which ~ written: &" On ReHtre pas ici' From
behind the door issue mysterious slZzIngs which
Indicate that the cock there holds undsputcd sway.
When one sits down at table n BRISK, smiling
garcon appears and asks what Monsieur wishes. He
Is probably coatleSs and very likely holds cigarette
IN MS mouth, bur the courtesy with which nc wishes
his customers " Bon jour" on entering and depart
ing aud his obiiglng alacrity might well he COPIED
in more pretentous American resorts. lie produces
a long elaborate menu freshly made ont each day,
and YOU find that the prices OF his dishes from
o 10 20 cents the latter eXtravagant expense being
incurred for u Gilct dc bGW dur chdmpigR0nS, and
q thdtedu6ridHd.
Antoine. who is both garcon and proprietor will
tenderly recommend, If you understand French his
mdqudedu Ia mdihe dhotet, when, when pro-
vued, carefully gIrnlshed with hnes her6es. Will
be found not To belle his predictions. Then he
will b.ng some thick. heavy rin OrdRdre aud at the
conclusion of your dinner Will suggest gtOrid Of cog
nae. OF petit rare OF hrsch. If You ask for
cigar he will produce blue paper bundle contain
Ing SWISS cigars. Tor Antoine was born III SwItzer-
land. Each cigar Is about SIX inches iii length.
hollow stray runs througni containing broom
straw which Is to be Withdrawn, while the other
acts rs a cInney to furnish the draught
After dinner, If you invite Antoine to take M
that your knowledge of French enables YOU 70 fol-
low his rapid utteranceS; and tell you how desc
lated " he > now tnat Madame has gone back to
Switzerland to take charge OF some property re-
Gently inherited. But there is one subject upon
winch Antoine viii speedily grow indignant and
that ~. oddly enough, the French IN this country.
From his own experience lie considers them utterly
worthless and tells at length how his French
TONERS make trouble. find fault with his vands and
exhibit narrowing reluctance to pay for their din
ncr>.
Aud il is Il queer set that frcqu"nts he Restaurant
du Grand Vail The men are usually makers OF artI-
fetal flowers. Overs. or silk weayers. Fortunately,
the place Is yet unknown 81 the average American
but Iis Bohemian cnarms nave been long enjoyed
by the artistic fraternity. 10 them this reproduce
OF the French cabaret recalls happy hours spent
~ beloved Paris.
quaint couple frequented the Grand Vatel not
long ago. The man, tail. slender and hpcctaclcd
looked like Il German student, while the man.
vIvucIous aud cUqucitlsI, was the genuine French
mOdiste. Inc man seemed always nervous, as If
fearing something. and tins was the reason He
was the son Of wealthy Belgian merchant. En-
plOyed his fathers business, and enjoying "a COM
Portable income, he married, and had pleasant
home with ms wife aud child. In the course of
time he across this woman and his hcklc affec
tons were transferred. HIS fell sick aud this
followed by the serious Illness of his child. sud
denly his father died, and II discovered that the
business was involved and the estate was heavily
in debt. BY the laws of Belgium the are held
responsible for the fathers debts The burden was
"A heavy one, aud the man proved himself base
coward. Deserving his dying wife and sick child. lie
fed with his woman to tins country. Here sister
allows INN meagle pension, while for the rest he
is supported by the wOmaus earnings.
But there IL peasanter side 10 life ut the Grand
Vael. Any evening after dinner the room Will be
well filled with Frcnchmen and blue with cigarette
smoke ltluerant musicians haunt the place, plaN-
ing airs from familiar operas. some one wul very
likely JON III with the words. aud perhaps. carried
away by the music. begin acting scene from some
wel,-remembered opera. Then WINE follows song,
and the swarhy Italians. clnklng glasses with their
hosts, leave the restaurant reluctantly ~ must any
vino enjoys the suice OF Bohemian ana foreign
life mingled with his prosaic everyday existence.