The Lamoille news. (Hyde Park, Vt.) 1877-1881, 1880-11-10
Autumn and Winter Wraps.

Autumn and Winter Wraps.
The cloths for autumn and winter
wraps are made with figured or rough
surfaces rather than with the smooth
lustrous finish of b~roadcloth. They are
of unusual thickness, yet soft and Aexi-
BILE; and as colored threads in cheviot
effects are introduced, it is more than
ever necessary that they be pure wool,
or else they will not be serviceable. For
plain wraps the choice lies between the
serviceable diagonal cloths with inside
fleece, or else the loosely woven yet
heavy cneviots. For dressy sacks for
young ladies the coachman's drab
shades are much used, though the nov
city introduced by Pingat, who is the
leading Partisan designer of cloaks, is
for basket-woven cloths combining as
many colors as are found,in the bourette
cloths worn two years ago. Seal brown
or black diagonal cloths are chosen fer
serviceable plain cloaks, while the
cheviot checks, irregular plaids, or
mixed surfaces are used for jaunty coats
for general wear, and for the useful
ulsters that are by no means confined to
travelling wraps, but serve often for
shopping and instead of waterproof gar
ments. Larger plaids are for mantles
in the McCregnr style. though thaae arc
often fanciful Madras plaids instead of
those of The Scottish ~tartans. Another
novelty is the repped cloths like empress
cloth, with half an inch of long warm
fleece on the inside; this is used for the
long rich cloaks with plush or fur bor-
ders.
Above all else plush is the ~favorite
trimming, especially for masculine
shaped jackets that merely require a
collar, cuffs and pockets. The hood,
which is added to many jackets, should
be arranged to button on, so that it need
not always be worn. A lining of plush
or of some striped or spotted Surah satin
is seen in most hoods. There IS a fancy
for single breasted jackets, and for those
without the skirt piece sewed across the
hips, yet many skirted coats with double
breasted fronts are worn. What is called
the Jersey coat dispenses with collar,
cuffs and the double fronts, and is made
to fit as closely as possible; even the
pockets are without flaps, and are SET
underneath the fronts, with a diagonal
opening bound on each edge. Rows O.
buttons set on the seams are the only
ornaments. These are for very young
ladies, and are shown in gray and blue
cloths for $l3. so. The genuine JERSEY
webbing, OF which the Jersey waists
are made. is made up into more ex.
pensive jackets fer autumn wear, bu'
there is no attempt to give the clos
Jersey effect to these garments. The!
arc simply English double breasteC
jackets, of dark blue, brown, blacl
or plum-colored, and are piped o.
the edges with satin of the sam
shade. Large pearl or metal but
tons are their only trimming. Well
made jackets of cheviot cloths witt
plush cloths and collars cost from ST.
to 1926 each. These are Of the stylisl
medium length, not long enough t.
conceal the drapery of short costumes
nor so short as to look scanty in til
presence Of longer garments. One G
the newest caprices is that of adding
short pelerine cape to jackets. To Civ
stylish effect this cape must be cut o.
straight across the back not rounded
and must cling closely to the shoulders
reaching just below the armholes. Thi
is shown on the Charlotte Corday coat
that BIT like sacks. and also on the lon
loose cloaks with full-gathered sleeves
Mantle shapes, or those with dolma
effects, are considered more stylish br
less youthful than the jaunty coats, an
are mostly chosen by older ladie
There is a fancy, however, for militar,
looking mantles with double capes
front for young ladies, and even f
schoolgirls. Some of these are trimme
with gilt or silver braid, and are MAD
of blue cloth, but black braid, rows
stitching, or else the Havelock plaitin,
are better trimmings. The monks cloal
are also unique garments in favor wit
young ladies. They are loose and lon
with gathered sleeves and a gather,
hood, and sometimes little capes 9
added.
In place of the belted ulster that W
so generally unbecoming, there are no
various gracefully-shaped long cloa'
made of the English cheviot cloths
quiet colors. The English driving clio,
is an excellent overall" wrap of I'll
kind; it has a circular back fitted Al
shaped by seams, square, sleeves in
loose front, and'a pointed hood. I'll
is .made Of cloth of mixed colors, wi