The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-03-19
[Harper's Bazar.]
New York Fashions,

N6W VI dS1lO1Ss
Black satin de Lyon and camel's-hair remain
the favorite fabrics for dressy wraps for Spring
and these retain the mantle shapes. Light
drab, 6cru, and beige colors are also seen in
woolen mantles. The shapes differ very little
from those of last year, as they have medium
sized round cape-like effects in the back, are
drawn close to the sides and shoulders like a
scarf, and may be cut off round and short in
front, though they more often hang nearly to
the foot of the front of the dress, and the ends
are caught together and finished like tassel.
The hack may have three seams or but one,
and in many cases the sides have square dol
man effects, or are finished like sleeves. Great
masses of shirring, and the full lace fraises,
which are not merely around the neck, but in
a second row bristling up about the shoulders,
or in a third row still lower down, perhaps asa
distinguish the late importations; it is also sty
lish to have heliotrope, old gold, or deep red
silk Innings to these wraps; and these colored
silks, though merely meant as Innings, will
make themselves visible outside, just as the
rich fur Innings of winter cloaks have DONE
The shirring on these wraps appears in various
places; sometimes the tW middle forms of the
back are entirely covered with shirring in very
fine cross lines; the front is then similarly
shirred, somewhat in vest shape; and there is
shirring cluster near the long mantilla fronts,
gathering them into a small compass like the
heading of tassel; pleated silk is then ar
ranged to finish out the tassel-like effect.
There is also fancy for trimming such man.
ties with bias ruffle that is heavily shirred
Jet passementerie, jet fringe, chenille, and
pleated laces of various French and Spanish
brands are most used for trimming black man
ties, and, occasionally the gay cashmere
beads are used ON black wraps. The gay beads
and fringes are, however, most used for India
silk mantles, and for gay cashmere wraps of
designs and colors like those seen in India
shawls; these are meant to wear with carriage
and visiting costumes, and are not for general
street wear. AT an opening of spring dresses
and suits given at the earliest moment, the
light drab mantles and scarfs are shown in
great Numbers, richly trimmed with braided
designs, passamenterie, beaded galloon. and
fringes of the same shade as the camel's-hair
of the wrap. Embroidered black cashmere
scarfs with fringe tied in the hens are shown
in larger sizes than those imported last year;
some of these tie in front in fichu fashion, and
cost from So upward.
For summer wraps there are small round
pelerine capes made of many rows of pleated
black thread lace, with jet insertion between
the rows, and jet fringe on the edge. A stylish
novelty is the black grenadine scarf mantle,
with its Medicis ruffs of lace around the neck
and about the shoulders; jet fringe edges the
shell-like lace trimming at the waist line be-
hind, and the fronts have long pointed ends,
and are tied at the waist by a bow of satin rib
bon. Spanish lace scarfs two and half or
three yards long and about yard wide are inn
ported to wear in the picturesque fashions of
Spanish women. There are also small fichus
of black Spanish lace, and many three-cor-
nered wraps like small mantles, as we'll as the
familiar three-cornered shawls Of larger size.
At the earliest opening of spring dresses,
combinations are seen to remain in vogue, and
the new fancies in costumes are shown. In
French short suits for the street the triple vest
is prettly illustrated in coat-like garments that
are much longer behind than in front. The
coat is usually of brocade, and the foundation
of the skirt plain. The fancy so prevalent for
straight hangings in the back will not be
confined to plain full skirts as at present,
but will be used with tabliers and paniers,
Thus the panier curves full around on the hips.
but stops at the seam joining the side forms to
the middle forms of the back, and these middle
forms hang straight and plainlto the end of the
dress skirt. This is well shown in tot
lette of black brocaded satin, with plain satin
de Lyon for the foundation. The brocaded
coat has three vests in front and a lace jabot,
yet is quite short there, sloping thence longer
on the hips, and lies flat in the back. The
lower skirt, all bordered with pleatings and
draped with paniers of brocade, has finally the
pretty finish behind of two plain straight bro
caded breadths Qined with old gold satin),
and attached to the belt Of the skirt beneath
the coat,-yet hanging as though part of the
Whnu tho vuo xpalk ko no oOld
facings are disclosed. Large jet beaded but
tons, or else those of white ivory or pearl,
hand painted, are used on these suits. French
surtout oyerdresses are made of cream and
brown brocaded wool, and are worn over full
skirts of plain goods of similar shades.
The new French breakfast caps are in most
varied shapes. The Fanchon is again used,
and is universally becoming. The novelty,
however, is muslin drapery at the back
shaped like the Spanish veil, and with ends
crossing in front below the chin. The Martha
Washington caps with mob crown have large
rosettes Of silk notched in saw teeth on the
edges for trimming. Point d'esprit net is
used for many of these crowns, and the notched
edging for pleated frills around it. Flowers in
small clusters and fringed satin ribbons trim
the dainty Fanchons of lace. Sometimes dark
red satin and cream color are most effectively
combined in the trimming; and again there
are three large crushed roses across the top,
two of which are dark red with creamy tea
rose in the centre.
New collarettes of lace have large square,
cornered collar Of lace turned over in the back
and above this is fraiSe quite high about the
neck, while in front is large irregular bow in
Directoire style. Ivory white satin is tied in
tiny bows, one of which rests on one corner of
the large collar. and another is put in front at
the throat. The large size and the irregular
look of these Directoire bows make up their
style. When they are worn, they make the
i mplest toilette look dressy, and they do away
with the need Of elaborate trimmings on the
waist of the dress.
For the street are square beaded collars eth
er of jet or Of rainbow beads, with full fraise
o black lace above. them. These are to be
worn outside wrap when fur collars are left
off. They cost 81. Black Spanish lace scarfs
are revived for wearing close about the throat
like muff1er outside wraps. For ladies whose
compilations allow the use of a great deal of
white muslin there are large wide scarfs Of soft
India muslin edged with lace, to be passed
around the neck, and tied outside the cloak in
a great Directoire. bow. There are also square
neck erchiefs of India muslin hemmed all
around with hem-stitching, and ornamented
in two of the corners with faYciful bars and
squares of drawn-work. Indeed, it is the fash
ion of the moment to dress the neck a great
deal, both in the house and in the street, as is
shown by the popularity of the Sara Bernhardt
fraises, Directoire bows, collarettes, fichus,
and scarfs. Brunettes and all ladies with sal
low compilations use the ecru-tinted musins
and laces that look as if they had been dipped
in coffee, or else they confine themselves to the
black neckware that is always stylish and near
ly always becoming.
Persian yelling is the novelty to be inIro-
duced for Spring. This is black net of very
fine quality, edged with Persian colors given
by Indian embroidery, or else by rainbow
beads. It is lite narrow, and is to be worn
as a mask veil, or else as the long scarf veil
that crosses behind the head, and is tied in a
great bow under the chin.