Ashtabula weekly telegraph. (Ashtabula, Ohio) 1880-1886, 1880-03-12
Trimmed Bonneis.

~ liNt W least OF Nut close GuINnNn
shapes and the larger medium-sized
shapes with scoOped fronts or else with
ilaring brimi but the gypsy bOnnets,
with irregularly indented brim that is
not wired, have occasionally trimmings
on the crowns. II the soft satin known
as Turc satin, as satin duchesse. and as
Merveilleuse is used for trimming, Il is
shaped into many tapped soft folds close
around the line that toins the brim 10
the crown, and is finished by one or
two rOsettes Of four or five loose loops
and a strap placed quite low down on
one side. One Of the new long spiked
ornaments Is then stuck through this
rOsette, and indeed through the bonnet
itself. This spike may be gilt or Jet,
and is in quaint new shapes, such as
the half comb with one long tooth worn
| by Japanese women, instead Of the
arrows and darts worn last year. The
brim is then covered with plaitings Of
| gold lace, or Of Languedoc, or else a
/ border Of the tiniest flowers edges Il. or
/ perhaps cluster Of roses, or of pop
| pies, or Of pansics, is massed directly
on the top. The inside facing Of the
] bonnet is Of silk, satin, or velvet slight
| ly shirred, and some Of the handsomest
! bOnnets dispense with even this, and
are made double Of the Tuscan braid,
or else lined with gold braid When
ribbon is used, it is twisted easily
around the crown, and then hangs in
strings on each side, each string being
fastened by an ornament, such as a tiny
spread japanese fan Of engraved gilt,
or butterfly with pearl-tinted wings,
or a square brooch with pink cameo
setting, or else a round clasp Of cut Jet.
! Soft satin or brOcaded ribbons are used
for strings, and are much wider than
those Of last year, measuring three and
a half or four inches in breadth. Soft
| brocaded silk is also doubled for strings
for chip and Tuscan bonnets, as well as
for those made of lace. The Gobelin-
figured ribbons are also stylish for
strings.
In glancing over the importations Of
French pattern bonnets at the whole
sale millinery houses the eye is arrest
ed at once by the prevalence of the
heliotrOpe shades, and of the Spanish
combinations of red and yellow. Thus,
for once, both blondes and brunettes
are provided for, as only the fairest
or heliotrope, while brunettes are seen
to best advantage in the rich colors
worn by Spanish women. The preva-
lence of these cOlOrs is seen especially
in the flower montures, as heliotrOpes
and pansies promise to be quite as
popular as the red and yellow roses and
poppies. In arranging flowers on the
bonnet the border for the brim is one of
the newest fancies; this is the merest
lie of very small flowers placed out
side the brim, or a row of tinted pearl
leaves, gilt wheat, or the pretty green
leaves of parsley. or of tiny unblown
daises, or else violets, or, if inside the
brim, rosebud wreath is used. Pop
pies of natural size, and both red and
yellow together, or else large Jacque-
minot roses are massed between brim
and crown on top of small Tuscan straw
bOnnets. A great cluster of the bright
yellow Isabelle sprunt roses, made up
of fine soft crushed roses without any
foliage, are low down on the left side
of a black Spanish lace bonnet, and a
smaller cluster holds the lace strings
together low on the bosom. Pansies OF
mammoth size are grouped together or
lllG bllil VI JGNOnaullt MUS
or else a single pansy is stuck inside
the brim of a poke-bonnet, and another
is low down on the left of the crown
Pansies with yellow centers tone dOwT
purple shades, and make them usefu
to brunettes. and there are many com
binations of lavender and rosy mauve
with cream-color or with pink in the
trimmings of bOnnets.
Beads of every color appear in the
trimmings. The yellOw-tinted pearl,
are, perhaps, the newest, and are useC
separately for dotting the plain creamy
silk brim of upturned DevOnshire hats
There are also some ruby beads il
strings used, but there are more irides
cent beads, and jets are used in abund
ance, being either alone or else miXeC
with gold beads on the black lace bon
nets that have gold threads Throughout
the designs of the lace; some chenille
threads are also seen in Spanish laces
The fringed-ietted edges of lace arr
very effective for the fronts of bonnets
The most novel lace. however, and on,
that is too expensive to become common
is of gilt threads that will not tarnish
| and are almost as fine as the linel
luItduH VI AGdA ltANos 4AG OllGnAu
= laces of many cashmere colors are alsl
= expensive. The Languedoc lace witt
| its cordGl designs is far more effectiv,
than Breton lace, and will supersede'
, for millinery purposes.
. A great panaehe of two or thre,
! ostrich tips placed far back on the lef
! side of the crown and nOdding outwart
from the bonnet is considered yer,
stylish. A very large pompon wit
ostrich feathers at the base and erec
: herons' feathers in the center is place,
: quite high yet far back on the left O
the crown of very elegant French bon
nets. A bunch of three small tips i
very handsome in lace bOnnets, or els
= falling over the brim of chip bonnets
while very long Mercutio plumes, mad
of two or three ostrich feathers sewe
! together to give them great thickness
). are curled closely, and worn along th
brim of Gainsborough hats.
From the notes above it will be see
that the importations are made up {
creamy chips, yellow Tuscan braidi
n and lace bonnets; to these will be adde
n at midsummer the loveliest white mus
/ lin hats, trimmed with Open-wOrk lik
b Irish point lace, and made in quaint oil
), English and in Watteau shapes.
d For useful black chip bonnets to
: put on very early in the spring lovel
D trimming is Oriental lace gathere
around the crown and tied in bow o
k top; then four ostrich tips-one of ye
;. low, the next of peacock blue, the thiT
Y of ciel blue, and the fourth of pheasar
T. brown are laid beside each other, an
q curl over on the front of the brim. Al