Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-11-13
Gensiemen,s Clothing.
tHarper's Bazaar. ]

Gentiemen's Clothing.
tHarpers Bazaar.
Two changes are shown In the clothing made
Tor gentlemen, VIZ, all coats are shorter, and
trousers are narrower than those worn last
year; 1t may also be added that vests button so
high that very little OF the scarf Is shown, and
tne SHIRT front IS entirely concealed. Mixtures
or color In the London cheviots and English
caSsimeres are chosen for morning business and
travelling Suits Plaids and stripes are still
Worn but the preference Is for 1ndistinct threads
OF color SO wei blended In weaving that a SOM
bre hue is produced, Notwithstanding there are
many threads OF red or OF blue. This suit Is
very English-l0OkiDg, and the entire suit should
be made of one material. The choice lies be
tween short cut-away coat and short sack
but In either case it must be single breasted
though it may be made to button Two, three or
four buttons according to the taste or the figure
of the weaTer. The vest, Of the same CLOTH
buttons very high, and with cut-away coats it
has no collar.
Two materials are required La the semi-dress
suit used for church. visiting, the theater, &C..
VIZ: black diagonal cloth for the coat and vest
with dark mixed cloth for the pantaloons. The
coat is the double breasted Irince Albert frock-
coat, high-cut, with silk facing In front, and
bound with braid OF medium width. The vest
Is cut high TO match the coat The trousers are
not black, except for mourning suits, but are
mixed threads OF hair stripes Of gray with black,
or other 1nconspicuous pattern in which dark
colors predominate This suit is preferred by
many gentlemen for day weddings or recep-
lions. The full dress suit for dinners and eve
nluB IeCcpOlouS TeIldlliS luc SNdtlOW-G1u coat
OF fine black cloth. with vest OF the same and
black trousers. The coat Is shorter than It has
lately been worn, Is made as plainly as possible,
and it, with the vest to match, is cut very low,
displaying great deal OF the shirt bosom.
For winter OVerc0atS long sacks prevail. but
Surtouts are being introduced by the most lash
lobable ta1lOrs. Brown is the favorite color for
overcoats. but blue and black are equally sly
llsh. The materials are fur beavers and Ely
slams.
LINGERIE.
hfrf f1,
business or for full dress, are made as plainly as
possible, without pleatS or embroidery. They
are merely three thickneSSeS OF linen, sloped IN
the lower corners TO make shield shape, and
finished down the front outside the eyeleLS with
perhaps TWO very narrow tuckS, or three Or four
fine cords, or, it may be, several rows OF Stitch
Ing. The box pleat formerly seen on Shirts for
general wear. and the vignettes of embroidery
around the eyelets OF shirts worn on fun dress
occasions, are now omitted; and this is not
because the shirt front is entirely concealed
by the high cut vests and broad scarfs now
used, but because all ornament is objected
TO, and platnnesS is the fashion OF tile
day. Standing collars an inch and quar-
ter high all around, or else slightly higher be-
hind, are worn In straight band, not turned
over In front, but not meeting, leaving bare
space OF more than two inches at the throat.
These are preferred to turned down collars, yet
the latter are worn, and are still considered
stylish, provided they leave the bare space In
front just mentioned for standing collars The
cuffs are wide and square cornered. and instead
OF tapping over at the button holes, the edges
must merely meet. and be fastened by linked
sleeve-ButtoEs. For these buttons a bar with a
chain and button IS the fanciful style, but
hands ome single buttons are by no means aban-
dOned The eccentric taste for representing an
imals in scarf pins still continues. The wild
boar is shown In silver. gold and even in
crusted with diamonds, but the newest caprice
is for an elephant OF yellow gold or Of silver.
SCARFs.
Coats are cut so high that scarfs are nearly
concealed, and for this reason more color Is ad-
missible In the scarf than was formerly thought
ID good taste. A great many very dark red
colors, In which old gold, red and blue appear,
are now Worn by men Of quiet tastes. The
broad Iiaudent shape, smoothly folded, yet
worn alike with turned-down and with stand-
Ing collars. The very wide Joinville scarf is
also fashionable, and is preferred by young men,
who wear 1t In ring. or else tied In knot that
gives the effect Of sailor tie. Satin, either
plain, brocaded, With smooth figures of many
colored threads, Or else In polka dots, is the
1avorite material for scarfs. Horseshoes, whips,
blts spurs. stars, lines, triangles or hieroglyph-
les IN colors either blue gold or white, are seen
on English scarfS OF luStrous satin. Black and
blue are the standard colOrs for scarrs Mar
roWly folded white lawn ties are for full dress
Black satin ties folded an inch and half Wide
are Iof theater parties and other semi-dress oc-
caSion5.
HANDKERCHIEFs, HOSIERY. ETC.
White silk pocket handkerchiefs have polka
dotS OF color all over them, or else they have
colored hens dotted with white; the hens are
VICE, ana may De em-stitched In open.work or
nan9kerch1efs have narrow hens that are hem
stltched: Hosiery Is preferred In solid colors
Iatner than IN stripes, and quiet shades of gray
or Drown are used Instead OF red or blue for
general wear. A slight line OF embroidery mo
each side Is the ornament and this is in Contrast
ing gay color. Hack silk socks are worn with
LOW h shoes. Gloves for the street are in tan or
crap SPADES, with wide English stitching on the
PACK OF darker shade than the gloves. Undressed
kld the more glossy dressed kid, and those of
neaVler SKINS, are all used. Those fastened by
canes OF light wood have tooth OF whale for
Inc handle; buck-horn crooks are also on Eng
slsn canes. Short smoking jackets imported
from London are Of English cassimeres Of dark
gray, drab, or black grounds Illuminated By
many threads or gay cOlOr5. They are In sack
shape, single breasted, and are finished on the
OF silk Of the high colors In the cloth. Plush
lap robes are chosen for gentlemenS dog-carts
These are double, with white plush on the in
plush that resembles ea fur Seats seal IS considered
especially stylish for such robes. There are
also gay.striped rough cloths such as are used
and other
row toes and low English heels are worn In the
street.
The black silk hats worn for dress by gentle
men have moderately bell. shaped crowns six
and a half inches high. The medium narrow
Or1mS nave the DOfSAy curl, Out are not rolled
so much as those OF last season, except when
intended for young men, who also choose
slightly lower crowns. The hard round-crown
Derby remains the stylish felt hat for business
and general wear. The crown Is very low.
measuring oaiy four inches and q quarter In
height, but the brtm Is Q trifle wider than that
OF last year. though not quite so much rolled
Black felt hats are most used, though some OF
brown are sold 70 match suits. English styles
VIII prevail In the seal-skin caps worn during
the winter. They will have visors that may BE-
turned down In front, and Wide rolled hands