New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-05-16
THE FASHIONS.
GOLD AND sILvERwARE AND COSTUMES.


| NEW AND VARIED DESIGNS IN TABLE SERVICE
THE LATEST FASHION IN FORKS AND SPOONS
NAMED AFTER THE PRINCESS LoUIsE-A RE-
TURN TO TIGHT sLEEYEs-JERsEY BAsQUEs FOR
THE YOUNG AND THE MARRIED-COTTAGE AND
GYPSY HATS.
In no branch of decorative art is there
greater Improvement than in gold and silver service for
the table, Absence Of body color has been the great de-
feet in modern silver well in pottery; dead I'M
contrasting silver is of the past by designs copied
from the portions Of Gothic architecture
from Saxon MedDYal and Irish mssals and from purely
oriental sources variety Of color ia given to metal
teaset in Indian designs shows great variety of details
The bowl OF silvergit in repOuss6 side has an
oval Of motted silver this branch Of gold
with sleeping birds in Damascene wOrk-an incrusta
tiOn Of one metal another. The other side has BAN
boo stalks in Oxdized silver. The pitcher shows sur
face OF both notified gold and FURNISHED silver with
bee and furled fan for decoration The and coffee
pots show in superb repOusse largo chased gold cres
cent crane, bamboo stalks and flowers silver tea
cnddy initiates the Casteani siver the cOlOrs in
notified cloudy gray side is covered by spiders
web in which fly seems to struggle and great spI-
der ia travelling toward the web. This decoration Is in
oxldlzed silver. bunch of flowers the other side
| arc in such colors as copper and other alloys.
Some mugs In dark irdescenco and other notified,
! furnished hues, arc gold banded and covered with
climbing ivy IN OXidzed silver. Others barred in
different alloys Of gold cluster Of dropping barber
rlcs IN dark red, and foliage OF tic copper and brown
tlnts OF Autumn cling to the side. third variety
the gold bars divided In compartments; In each Is
! different Egyptian symbol such "a lotos flowers, the
white bean flower, ibis These decorations set
| upon dead silv, T ground
little ete tGie tea set IN low form is In Indian de-
sign. On the hammered gold surface in oxdzed silver
shown crab frog and lizard IN vivid cOlOrs. Other
rclcfs pond lilies shells and bugs, copper gold
set shows graceful spray OF blackberres and squirrel
applied in natural silver. Some spoons OF the
Byzantine pattern are in partial gilt and the flowers
chased by hand pure white The handles OF the jelly,
salad spoon and fork and berry alike in rich
decoration OF flowers the bowls differ in the styles OF
| grouping clusters Of strawberries and foliage.
The Princess Louise Is TIE latest fashion in spoons
and forks In gold and silver Of the old English and
purrs Roman styles pretty fancy Is that Of
Ing ndme the handle for instance, Lily" which IL
| half covered with lilies Of the valley in elab-
| orato rrpOussG work. Another has the initials
! garlandd with mlrguertcs; this Is al done
! IN Land work coffee pot, purely Oriental
has long, slender neck and body In satin finish
silverj the top of the neck opens in bud with cum
| ming leaves Tho decorations are palm-shaped and
! pumcs in repou'.C. The tray Of highly FURNISHED sill
yer is bordcrcd with thlcklyclustercd flowers in re-
| poUsS6. An exquisite pickle or olive dish shows
ground IN waving irregular dashes Of dull irldcscent
colors. On this Is shown cluster Of pond lilies and
broad leaves, dcllcItcly tinted aud fish and dragon
| fly.
]
knives and forks for all manner Of table The gold
orauge-kufe, with five saw teeth, has Oxidzcd Sl
handle decorated with birds aud foliage; with this
tho nut-picks correspond. Other styles OF satin
finish gold with exquisite CioROnne handles. Sumo sill
vcr-bladcd frullkuiyes have Japanese handles each
differing from the other IN the quaint decoration in col
| orcd gold OF reptiles, Rad1cs. rushes and buCs
Among other pitchers one has a hammered gold body
garanGcd by vine III nppllque-sO perfect that II has
! the appearance OF being carelessy laid on-of dying
leaves OF rcddshbrown motled tnts md backbcrrics
! IN natural coors This Is done copper Some fruit
plates In gold in soft cIon tlnts, with studies Of
irut such pines, peaches pears, cherries, in nlello
work, which done b. engraving the surface Of the
metal filing the ncscd lines with small grains of
other metal blackcncd by sulphur, and tbtn usng ana
fixing the gains by heat The effect T. that OF some
cxquisiiey shaded etching Other plates OF this style
show clusters OF grapes aud yine and butterfly and
Strawberries ana blossoms IN copper alloy Some knives
accompanying these perfect Plates Ot gold, with In
| laying OF various colorcd metals AMI designs.
some trays and are hammered IN imitation of
rippes Of In gray oxldized silver Of soft finish
while the decorations Of flower fish, turtles rocks and
dragon flies are copper alloy. Children's mugs OF
cltronhnei finish silver eXIuisitely engraved
from the dcsigus by Walter Crane, such rs Tne Miller
Of tho Dee -; another has designs from Sing Song
sxpcncc" Jack HUrncr" and other tavOrite nurUcry
ballads Tho fnyorlic 4" How does my lady's garden
grow f. again reproduced on u gold plate with ts cir
cle Of lilies OF Tho valley cach surmountcd by charming
chids face smiling al tac graceful maien IN their
midst These all done nlello work. Some quaint
scent nasks hing from chain and all IN the mot
lied gray red old corrodcd silver decorated in copper
cold with japanese fishing crescent and birdie
4 pretty ltc Romnn lamp OF hammered duh silver Is
intended for cigar lighter with copper gold decorations
Match boxes for the pocket are in similar style with
Japanese decoratlonsi this style is extremely popular
There are also fine American curiOe, copies Of the
| antique in odd pieces.
The pretty LalrlOng sleeve f. superseded by the still
ungrncefu tight sleeve reaching to the wrist The
symmetry of the arm hidden III sim pus or pleats II
II something OF tue GATHERING de AsuISs style ana ~
CONNER the idea the fashion OF nrnfy Irois, thc
son OF Catherine is seen IN III" erfec!ly hitting basque
without seam wrinkle. The Jersey basqucs have also
made their n2realAnGc mere II may no. DC geneaiy
known that this fashion r. garment woven or raw Six
without seams, and also improved upon by Worth IN
wool thread cotton raw SILK Of stocking net,
Tnc original Jersey has the sleeves woven In and fits
| feet stocking. but the great maulnilliner COM
prchcnds The difficulty OF hitting all figures
where thy positively needed and the whist laced
by n lady recently returned from abroad is made OF
cream coorcd and brown silk stocking net tho skirt Ia
brown Persian cashmere falling from the waist In kits.
The waist is laced behind with red acngs aud the lne
the hips, whore the skirt meets tho waist Is con-
ccaed by wide scarf OF red surnh sE hesoeyes are
simply rolled back ut the Wrists forming cum, which
kept In place by red ribbon bow, the collar Is made
double OF the material, and Ii rolling These costumes
~ navy blue VIII be largely patronlzed for yachting,
boating archery and the sea side by both young and
II Is now understood that dresses are made short for
WakE' urm-ons 9r hoSI nu bb T Th ~ ~
sleeve which caprice OF fashion or tiers Tor hot weather
IA made cndurHDe Ivy the pufs that yield both
elbow room AMI comparative comfort shirred satin
IA very much used for the fronts OF dresses for cu ana
IL exceedingly useful for extra pldstrOns TO convert
hearsaped waist into nigh corsug, the plastrOn be-
Ing 80 to cover the opening whatever the shape
NAV hc. This addition should be In harmony with tho
toilet similar trimmings, but IL that cannot be
arranged tie shlired pRsrOn should be OF the same
| material "a the dress. handsome walking dress Is
composed OF a gray silk brOcade basque covered With
ararsques OF darker shade. and long tight sleeves of
tI,e same, A pnstrOn front made plain mas the same
coorcd ground covered with large maroon polka spos,
XII skirt matches The pasTOn b0rdered with maroon
SILK maroon SILK OvrTHkirt drawn over the hips falls
mn long drapcTy folds behind. portion OF this Is
br0 ght forward again In wide scarfs below the knees,
-. In n h1r,