The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1880-12-16

New YORK, November 81, 1880.
The Openings" of the merchants here are
affairs of unprecedented brillianey and rivalry.
There are several firms that have imported large
ly Of Partisan costumes, and they insert long ad-
vertisements in the papers, describing dresses |
made by Worth, Pingat, Grange, and Magenties, |
and local artists of excellent repute with prices
of the garments ranging from $500 down to-no
very ''lOw figure, it must be confessed Magnlh-
cent fabrics are all the fashion. Where all the
money comes from to buy them is question often
asked
Elaborate preparations for cold season are be-
ing made The squirrels and birds have set the
fashion of providing against and frost col
lecting nuts and dried leaves, and not to be out
done by these sagacious creatures, ladies are gen.
orally studying up the question of furs, and are
laying in great store of such commodities as
fashion sanctions and purses permit Dark furs
will be more fashionable than light. Chinchilla
and ermine always held in allegiance, but
never assert themselves very positively for out
door wear. Blue fox is in the ascendant at the
present for those rare eOnnoisseurs who regard
costly furs in the light of precious stones unat
tainable works of art. The Empress of Russia
had the finest known collection of blue fox and
sable, and the Car once gave to Adelina Patti
peIisse valued at twenty thousand dollars. But
Suc0 regal wraps are E6neTdlAN CuulDeTSOne pos
sessions and of little real use For rugs, robes
are in greater demand than ever. White bear is
the fur in use for bedroom and dressing-room
rugs. Tiger skins are also thrown over the sofas,
but the fashion is far from graceful and attractive
Weak-minded people shudder before committing
themselves to such close contact with the fero-
cious mOnarchs of the forest, dead alive. Muffs
which from time immemorial have been Of fur,
are made of satin, of plush, and of velvet,
trimmed with chenille in gold and black. The
Duchesse muff is of satin, with three little hum
ming birds nestled in a cloud Of black lace. The
flower muff is of cardinal red plush or marine blue,
trimmed with punches of roses, camelias and viO-
lets, surrounded with lace. The Watteau muff is
for evening use, and is of white satin, with paint
ed Cupids disporting themselves after the manner
Of fan decorations. The Castillian is of dark
plush, with an orange-coIored bird perched on one
side. The Minerva is in skunk or sable fur.
The discussion over the great problem as to
whether or not Sarah Bernhardt is to be received
into society which causes such tumult in New
York life, makes it interesting to mention that
when Rachel first appeared in London, in lS41,
though she had had few Of the same petits Gcci-
dents as Sarah Bernhardt society flew into the
widest raptures on her account, and, asking no
questions, threw wide open its arms and the doors
Of its drawing rooms. Rachel was received every
where. She invariably accompanied by her
father and her elder sister. Her unaffected and
dignifed simplicity, her modesty, and the perfect
decOrum of her conduct made her great favorite
with the fastidious English aristocracy. The
aunts Of the Queen, aged models Of propriety,
especially petted her.
The death of Lucreta Mott removed from the
country an influence which, though on the wane
Of late years, at time as powerful as il
was subtle There enterprise for the ma
terial benefit of her race in general, and Of heI
sex in particular in which she did not actively
interest herself In the troubled childhood o
Abolition her energy industry, fiery candor anC
courage never failed to be conspicuous. TIL,
sweet and simple virtues of the Quakers were re
inforced in her by an amount Of audacity and ag
gression such as one finds but seldom in masculin,
character even. 1t was her rare gift to combin,
the tenderness of a Sister of Charity with the dar
ing of a crusader and in this she has been almos
alone among women reformers
This city and Philadelphia have both sufTere,
severely in past years from the rule Of corrupt po
litical rings. Here the burdens of Tweedism be
came too heavy to be borne, and the people over
threw the ring but did not correct the abuses tina
grew up under it. Some of the worst features 0
the Tweed charter are still i'm force. A Legislative
committee is now inquiring into the affairs of tn
city government with the view of reporting sucl
facts and needs to the General Assembly vii
enable that body to provide New York with sucl
a system of local government as will protect it
citizens. The people Of the city are demanding G
the committee that its report shall not be colore
with the wishes and devices of politicians an
rings, and the public interest thus awakened will
no doubt, be vigilant enough to enforce its de
mands. AUGUST
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