Butler citizen. [volume] (Butler, Pa.) 1877-1922, 1880-08-25
THE ART OF BUDDING.
BY Il. J. BLACK.

The yuong tree which receives the
bud-the stock, as it is called-should
he about half an inch in diameter,
though a smaller size will answer.
In some cases trees an inch, and even
two inches in diameter, have been
budded but the work is more difficult,
and there is larger wound to be
healed after the bud begins to grow
THE TIME TO BUD.
The time for budding varies with
the different fruits, and also with the
different seasons, hot, dry summer
Fastening. and cool, moist summer
retarding it. The stock is in the right
condition when the seasons growth is
nearly completed, (Which is shown by
the formation of the terminal bud, }
and while the bark still peels freely
At this time also the buds to be trans
erred have generally grown to be iirm
enough to answer the purpose. The
order of budding the different fruits is
about as follows: Beginning with
plums and cherries in July; then
bears and apples in August; closing
up with apricots, nectarines (generally
budded on the pesch) and peaches by
the middle of September. If however,
the peach stocks are of more than one
seasons growth, they will not peel
freely long after the lst of August, and
must be attended to by that time or
before.
On the other hand if, instead of the
mazzard, the mahaleb-the French
wild cherry-stock lie used to bud the
fine cherries on, it will be growing 80
rapidly in July that the buds will not
take on it, and the work must be de-
ferred until the latter part of August
or the middle of September. 1t makes
rather better stock than the mazzard
and as the buds are more mature late
in the season, the percentage OF fall
ures is much less than on the mazzard
The stocks being in the right condi-
ton, the additional requirements are:
l. Buds of the desired kinds OF fruit.
Ifthese are at hand, SO much the bet
ter. If not, some well-established
nurseryman of character can supply
them. Buds can be sent by mail or
express hundreds of miles, if done up
carefully in damp moss-merely damp
anu prepared (waterprooD paper. 2.
A budding-knife, costing IS cents or
81. The knife made on purpose is OF
course best, but good "Barlow" has
been known to do excellent service.
A thin blade with a rounding point,
and very keen edge, are the import
ant points in the knife. 3. Some soft
material for trying. Linn bark, pre-
pared by sleeping in water for three or
four weeks, is the best material but
candlewick or wooden yarn will ans
wer.
HOW TO BUD.
To prepare stick Of buds, select a
shoot of the present seasons growth.
The more perfectly it has been ex-
posed to the sun and air, the better.
Cut of few inches of the immature
top, and of the butt or lower end, as
the buds on both are imperfect. I'm
mediately remove the leaves from the
remaining part of the cion with the
knife, cutting 80 as to leave about one
third of an inch of the footstalk.
This must be done at once, as the
leaves carry off moisture rapidly, in
juring the buds beyond remedy in q
short time. The stick of buds is now
ready. Keep in damp cloth until
used.
The place to insert the bud is gener-
ally an inch or two above the ground,
choosing smooth place in the stock.
With the budding-knife make an up
right incision rather over an inch long
and entirely through the bark. At
the upper end Of this incision make
another, crosswise, about half an inch
or less in length, the two cuts when
made resembling the letter T. Some
prefer to make this latter cut oblique
instead of square, as the tying in the
case will not fall into the cut, and o
more complete finish can be made.
The point now on which success
mainly depends, is raising the bark for
the admission of the bud ,rithout touch
ing Me soft netO acood underneath.
This can be easily learned by little
practice.
The thin piece of ivory in the end
of the handle of the budding-knife for
raising the bark has gone pretty much
out of use. the point Of the knife doing
the same work as well, or better, and
with less trouble. The beginner may
find the ivory preferable for a time
but as soon as possible the ability to
use the point Of the knife should be
acquired.
TO cut of the bud (Which is to be
done Immediately after or Immediately
before raising the bark, hold the stick
Of buds in the left hand, the heavy end
pointing outward, then let the knife
enter nearly horizontally half an inch
beyond the lower end Of the bud, and
come out about thrce-fourths of an
inch above it, taking very thin slice
Of wood with the bud and bark The
English method is to remove this thin
slice of wood; but this is Of no partic-
ular benefit, while it increases the
labor. The bud is now to be inserted
carefully in the opening prepared, for it
holding 1t by the short footstalk and
pushing it down gently to the lower
end Of the cut. Should the upper end
Of the bud extend above the incision,
cut it off 80 as to make good fit.
The incision is at once to be wrapped,
firmly but not to tightly, with the ty-
ing material, beginning at the lower
end and entirely covering the orifice,
but leaving uncovered the footstalk,
and the bud especially, though wrap
ping close up to them. The intention
OF this wrapping is to exclude air and
moisture.
There should he as little exposure
Of the cut surfaces to the air as posi-.
BILE; consequently the operation once