The Newberry herald. [volume] (Newberry, S.C.) 1865-1884, 1880-08-18
SHIELD BUDDING FRUIT
TREES.

Pomologists are now giving the
preference to budding over graft
ing in the majority Of cases: There
are several excellent reasons for his
preference. Budding is more easily
and quickly accomplished; it can
be done at more convenient sea-
son: the operation does not lnJure
the stock in case of failure, as IS al
ways more or less liable in stocks
headed down for grating, and last,
but by no means least, when bud
ding is performed in good season
an opportunity is afforded ofre-
peating the trial on the same stock
when the first did not take. 10
these advantages may be added,
budding is preferred for all stone
fruits, such as peaches, apricots
and cherries, which require extra
skill in grating, but which are
budded with ease.
The time for budding stocks de-
pends upon two conditions there
must be a flow of sap in the stock,
or in other words, it should not
have fully completed its growth,
and the shoot from which the buds
are cut should be in similar con-
dition, but with the buds that are
to be used fully developed. A lit
tie practice will enable one to Judge
very correctly of the state Of a
stock in reference to budding. The
season for budding fruit trees may
be said to extend from the first Of
July until the first of October:
Such trees as cease to grow early
in the season must be budded
early; such as grow until late in
the autumn must be budded later.
The different trees come into season
as follows: Plums cherries, apri-
cots on plums, pears, cherries,
ounces, nectarines and peaches.
In short, perform the work OF bud
ding only when the bark Of the
stock parts or separates freely from
the wood: and when the buds Of
the years growth are somewhat
plump and the young wood is
growing firm.
Shield or T-budding is one of
the approved modes and is largely
practiced by our best pomologists.
Having decided on the part to be
budded, select a smooth spot and
make an upright incision in the
bark from an inch to an inch and
a half long, and at the top Of
this make a crosscut so that the
whole shall form T. From the
stick of buds cut a thin, smooth
slice of wood and bark containing
bud. With the rounded end of the
knife next raise the bark on each side
of the incision just wide enough to
admit the prepared bud. Taking
hold of the foot-stalk Of the leaf
insert the bud under the bark, push
ing it gently down to the bottom
of the ineision. If the upper por-
ton of the bud projects above the
horizontal part of the T cut it
smoothly off that it may completely
fit. Next tie a bandage over the
wound, beginning at the bottom
and tying firmly above, leaving the
end and foot-stalk of the leaf only
exposed to the air.
In about a fortnight after bud
ding the success OF failure Of the
operation will be apparent. If it
has succeeded and the stock is
considerably swollen, loosen or re-
move the bandage. If it has failed
to take and the bark still parts
readily, make another trial.
Budding, as most farmers under
stand, differs from ordinary graft
ing, not the least in it's nature or
effects. Each bud is a distinct in
dividual, capable of ofbecoming a tree
under favorable circumstances. In
grating, a branch composed OF
several buds is employed with
considerable quantity Of bark and
wood, while in budding but sin
gle bud with small quantity Of
the adjoining bark and wood is
used.-Ne1o York World.