Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-07-08
FARM, GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD.
Diseases Of Horses Ess.--corns.

Most horsemen understand more or
less the nature of this latter common
disease. Few are 80 ignorant as not TO
know their location in the foot of the
horse. Yet, with all this knowledge of
the disease, these very persons, though
they think they know the nature of
corns, really know very little about
them.
Corns, like many other diseases, are
durable when taken before much dis
organization of the parts have taken
place.
In the first place. undue pressure
upon the outer edge of the inner heel is
mainly the cause of the disease, and
consequently In shoeing should have
extra care in seating the shoe to this
part of n horse with either n shelly hoof
or a corn. The shoe should be eased
off gradually for about an inch or SO
from the end, never upon any account
thickened where the foot Is weak, or at
all inclined to corns, for most certainly
the increased thickness must and does
increase the pressure, and horse, so
shod, cannot long escape corns.
In all cases of corns the foot affected
must have the sole between the frog
and the outer crust pared pretty thin
and evenly, so as to allow of some elias
ITCHY in the immediate vicinity of the
corn. Cutting away the bars of the
foot very materially weakens the same,
and, as consequence, induces corns
and other diseases of the foot. Weak
heels should not be pared TO the extent
that string foot is, which should al
ways be well and evenly pared at every
shceing, but should be nicely and evenly
rasped, the shoe scarcely touching the
heels.
After corn is found in foot beyond
question, with very fine pairing knife
carefully pare to the bottom. Don't by
any means wound the sensible part OF
the foot, but for fear of quitton anG
other serious mischief, get to the
bottom. Put into the hollow formed
by pairing piece OF tow or cotton bat
ten wet with butter, butter of antimony,
and press it TO the bottom. Do this for
about three or four times; then substi-
tate for the butter of antimony COM
pound tincture of myrrh and aloes
apply Tor some time. say week or ten
days. Then examine carefully, also
watching the movements of the horse
To ascertain the degree OF benefit result.
| ing from the treatment. and govern your
future acts by circumstances. II Lurthe's
treatment is found necessary, why
then, OF course, il mus. be repeated. II
the corn seems TO be dead killed then
have put on a good fitting horseshoe,
or one with web broad enough to
cover entirely the cavity made in the
foot. BE careful not to allow the inner
edge TO touch unduly the frog-neither
bar shoe or broad web. The shoe
must be SO made as TO have no bearing
whatever upon the part affected.
Anoint occasionally with common tur-
| pentine and lard, equal parts, carefully
melted together; this will soften the
hoof and stimulate its growth. This is
good for any disease of the hoof. and is
one of the best aad surest stimulants to
new formation, and may be used with
great advantage in all hoof Diseases
William Horne, III. D. !. s., in Dixie
Farmer.
Budding Peach Trees.
Charles Black, Higginstown, n. j.,
writing on the budding and aler-treat-
ment of the peach in the Gardeners
Monthly, says: We begin rs early in
August as possible; generally the first
week have the branches and leaves all
cleaned off for six inches up the trees.
! Clean out all clods, weeds, ETC., SO that
there will be nothing in the way of the
| workmen; the buds are cut the night
| before thay are wanted and spread out
on grass. well wet, with leaves on. Then
early in the morning the leaves are cut
closely TO the eyes of the bud; the buds
are kept in a wet cloth in the shade at
the nursery. The builder wraps up in
cloth enough sticks or limbs 10 bud
several hundred and carries them tied
fast to his waistband by his side; he
takes out n stick. holds it in bis left hand
| with lower end from him and places his
knife-whieh may be any kind with a
blade pretty thin and of good quality
about half an inch below the bud then
with drawing cut-gradually deeper
cut about as far above the mud; cut
about half way through medium-siZed
stick, not so deep rs in a larger one.
Take out the knife and cut crosswise of
the limb, just through the bark. about
half an inch above the bud, making n
stout bud about one inch long; place
the point of the knife within one or two
inches of the ground on the Seeding.
making a cut upward just through the
bark about one inch long; then make n
cut at the top of IL crosswise, making a
L shaped cut after 1t Is done. In max
ing the crosscut, the knife has TO have
n certain twist, which throws open the
bark enough to admit the point of the
bud without the aid of bone or quill.
Now take hold of the bud cut on the
limb with thumb and foreiinger of the
right hand and twist 1t sideways and it
will come off, leaving the wood cut with
it on the limb; then thrust the lower
point of the bud in the Seeding fully
halfway up; then with thumb nail or
side Of the thumb push down so that
the bud just fits in the stock We tie
with bass mating, cut about one foot
long and in strips quarter of an inch
wide, making three or four wraps. and
tie in single knot in front OF the bud
The ties have to be loosened in ten days
or two weeks, according to the growth
of the tree. They are slit by the knife
about halfway up the mat, directly back
of the bud. II does not ipjure the tree
by the knife cutting through the bark
After this there is nothing needed unit
the next spring, when the tops are cut
off close above the bud, any time after