The Portland daily press., 1880-04-29
New York Fashions.

costumes, one of which has straight and SIM
pie outline without drapery, while the other
retains bouffant outlines produced by elabor-
ate festooning. Rich fabrics are required for
the straight dresses in order to make them ell
egant as we'll as simple; but for thin summer
goods, such as foulard, grenadine, Surah, and
the religieuse yelling, which is now as diapha-
nous as gauze, the bouffant draperies are pre-
ferred. Modistes import few tournures or bus
ties OF any kind, as they prefer to give the full
appearance by founces on the petticoats or in
side the dress skirt
Some Spanish costumes made by Worth rep
resent the most bouffant styles, and also give
new suggestions for black grenadine dresses, as
they are made of black brocaded and jetted
tgrenadine lined throughout with pale Isabelle
yellow silk or else with bright Jacquminot red.
These dresses are very elaborate and are meant
for dressy occasions, yet they have short skirts,
measuring two and a half yards at the foot,
and this may be said of nine out Of ten of the
imported dresses; very few demi-trains are
shown, as these are restricted to house dresses,
while for full-dress evening toilettes court
trains of great length, with full, flowing
breadths, are used. Two kinds of black grena-
dine are in the same dress; that for the pleated
flounces is striped with satin, and the stripes
are made to 60 around the figure, instead OF
being lengthwise. For the body and overskirt
q
outlined with jet is used, also the large satin
balls and polka spots.
Other grenadine dresses entirely black are
made over glossy Surah skirts to make them
light The apron overskirt, plain or in dag
onal pleats, is one of the popular fashions for
such dresses, while the new back drapery is
formed of two loops, one above the other.
These are made of a single breadth, with both
ends pleated to the belt, and the curved lower
edge trimmed all around with wide pleating.
,e, flor rlx
trimmed. The satin-striped grenadines, also
plain canvas grenadines, are used in Paris for
trimming plain black silk dresses; when the
plain grenadine is used, there are usually mar
row panels or tongues of silk or satin falling
upon them. Jet netted aprons, or else fringe
half q yard deep, trim the fronts OF many
grenadine dresses. Sometimes the sleeves
come only to the elbow, and below this are
half-SleeveS of jetted net that fit the arm
smoothly, or else wrinkle like thread glove,
and are finished at the wrist with ruffies Of
lace and loops of satin ribbon. Directoire col
lars and square cuffs are made of ietted net,
and edged with row Of cut jet beads like
those used on the brims of bonnets; these trim
bacques of black grenadine, and also OF silk
suits. Surpiice and square necks OF such
dresses have black beaded tulle draped inside
of the opening. Another new fancy is that of
using creamy white India muslin shirred in
side of open necks of grenadine and foulard
dresses.
The matinees, or morning costumes, are most
dainty toilettes, made with a petticoat and
long unlined sacque of Surah silk of cream
white, pale, heliotrope, or light blue, trimmed
with gathered rufflles Of the same edged with
Breton lace. There are also most graceful
sacques of black silk or grenadine skirts in the
house. These are not lined, and are as cool as
muslin. They are trimmed with wide pleat-
ings of the black Surah, on which is laid a
band of old gold, red, or heliotrope Surah, and
this pleating is edged with black Breton lace.
A pleating six inches deep lies around the
neck like cardinal collar.
Pleated skirtsiforming double kits are very
fashionable for foulards and for thin wool
dresses. Hoods are about to be revived, and
are made on round capes that reach only to the
elbow, as we'll as on the long straight gowns
that form overdresses for suits. Gathered
ruffieS made very narrow and double OF the
silk are on Paris dresses. The gay cotton
dresses are quite as effective as those of foulard
Creamy muslin embroidery and white Langue-
doc lace are lavishly used on French costumes
of Turkey red calico; the parasol and fan to
match are of the same calico very delicately
painted by hand.
Other cretonne satine, and mummy-cloth
dresses are made up in the Vatican designs
that are used for foulards, and are elaborately
trimmed with lace. Yachting dresses of wool
bunting are made of the handkerchief-pat-
termed bunting with blue ground polka-dotted
with red. Dark blue foulard with white polka
dots is made into charming short dresses faced
with dark red and sold for $50. Red foulards
in Turkish patterns are faced with blue.
Dark wine-colored Surah dresses are elaborate
ly trimmed with creamy white muslin and
embroidery. Coat sleeves Of dresses are made
very high on the shoulders and stand upwards
like mems coat sleeves The wrists of sleeves
are very plainly finished, and are trimmed
with lace pleatings. l
Sleazily woven flannel, called by the mer-
chants beige de sante, and sold for 25 cents a
yard is made up for summer dresses for the
country, 1t may be had in navy or peacock
blue, gray olive or cardinal, and while all pure
wool, is of such light weight that it is liked for
morning dresses The box-pleated waist OF
belted basque is simply stitched, or else piped
with dark red. There are two or three full
straight breadths gathered or pleated in the
A box-pleated ruffie piped with red trims the
edge When made at home such dresses need
not cost more than IS.
For low-priced white dresses the Summer
zephyr sold at IS cents yard is very pretty
creamy white muslin as soft and thin as India
muslin, and with a crape-like crinkle. This
makes charming drapery for partly worn
evening dres' of light silk, and might also be
edged with the new cream and gold laces, and
draped upon dark or even black silks.
Shawls with solid centres and embroidered
borders are being utilized for the long coats
cashmere, with dotted embroidery of pale gray
in the border, makes beautiful over-dress for
a gray silk trimmed with blue satin pleatings
Another shawl of brocaded silk and wool in
mixed cream and gold is also effective for a
long coat, to be worn with skirt Of black vel.
vet. A coachman's drab coat of fine cashmere,
with brown velvet Directoire collar and pock-
cts, is worn with a brown velvet skirt.
Spanish lace will be the fashionable net fol-
polouaises in the Summer, and will be worn
with dresses of pale gray, heliotrope, or ecru
silk
Gray or brown Cheviot, in black patterns as
well as in checks, is sold for the popular prices
of so or 60 cents yard, for making light wool
en- suits for Spring, Summer and Fall. 1t is
made with pleated skirt, which is sometimes
a plain kilt, but more often there are three
rows of pleating across the back breadths, GOV.
ering them from the belt to the foot, while the
front is single kilt A long coat basque or
still longer surtout is piped with red to com.
plete the suit.