The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1880-05-05
"Xact" as to Shades, Ma
terials and Styles.
Some Costumes Described---Fa'
verite Trimmings---BOn-
nets and Hats.
New YORK, May 4, 1880.


IN this color. Rich brocatelles in two
shades of heliotrope are in preparation.
There are also mauve-colored satlns with
mall punches Of violets, which are ar
ranged like the madras fichus so much
worn last summer, with the center and
wide borders. Many suits are to be made
In this style. The "tissu Montmorency,"
\ new material, is covered with designs
Of handsome cherries and leaves. The
grounding is dark garnet or bronze color.
The material is arranged in different sized
bands, divided by light threads. Snowy
toilets for young ladies are made OF this
soods, and it rs also much employed for
vun-shades. Surah and foulard continue
to be the favored materials, as they are
light and soft, and admirably suited to
ill kinds of drapery. A suit Of "piyoine"
or penny-colored surah and beige'col-
ored foulard with peony designs is made
with foulard skirt trimmed with gath
cred flounces, with the heading of each
founce formed of several rows OF shlr-
ring. The Louis XIV. surah vest reaches
to The middle of the skirt Down the
front are enameled buttons. The vest
opens about 10 inches below the waist,
where it separates and is taken back,
and follows the border of watteau
polonaise. This foulard polonaise is
ihirred on the shoulder, on the waist,
and on the border of the vest and forms
over the hips kind of panier, which is
draped in the back. The back is
"tailleur" shape, fitting into the figure,
with a "tournure' underneath. It forms
three narrow and full puffings, the last
one of which is turned up and fastened
to the skirt. Two surah scarfs are taken
from the seams under the arms and tied
in loops which fall over the first putting
Of the dress. The half-long sleeve il
trimmed with a ruffle with shirred
heading. On the right sleeve over the
shirring is a tiny gilded butterfly with
silver pin. The baby hat worn with thi
suit is rather large, with the brim raiset
on the left side. Near the hair is full
spray of roses without leaves. A littl
toward the side, in front OF the brim, ar
two white plumes.
Position basques and "tournures" ar
daily gaining in favor. With this styl
Of waist the fronts are pointed, and tn
sides cut out over the hips, while tn
back forms position coat-tails. TIL
waists are smaller than ever, requiring
corsets of the very best make.
Satin, which hitherto has been reserve
exclusively for winter toilets, is now ez
tensively used on spring and summe
dresses. These have puffings Of sati
down the front, and draperies and plai
ings The trimmings, when combine
with Pompadour foulards and plai
surah, are very light, and suitable f'
summer wear, and have totally dite
ent effect to that produced when cor
bined with such goods as velvet vgogu
Colored faille and brocaded tafetas a
in high favor. With the new fan(
fabrics in use, aprons are made OF sati
either in the color of the grounding
in one of the colors of the design. Th
style is useful for making over O
dresses.
The Louis XIV and XVI styles ST
retain favor, and everything that is 0
and genuine is used for the toilet. |
door dresses are also in pure Watte'
style, with pufed and shirred sat
fronts, and pockets and cuffs of t
same trimmed with ribbon bows. 0
brocade and Pompadour materials a
employed to advantage for this purpo
An indoor dress made in Watteau sty
and forming one of six robes de chant
Of a bridal trousseau, is Of woolen a
silk "cachemire faconne," the crea
colored grounding having designs of 81
blue and oli-gold coiored palm leay
placed very close together; they are n
row and long The fronts are Of s.
blue pufed satin, shot with threads
different colors. With the last materi
however, the cachemire must be gu
fresh, which is not SO necessary with
plain satin.
Plain linen and batiste dresses, VIII
can not be worn as they are, may
made over in Pompadour designs W
the same materials. Blue, gray, 8
straw-colored linen dresses may be &C
bined with perc lie satinettes, and the {
fashioned waists replaced by the "
teau casaque. The plain skirt ha
short train and puftings of the IA
fabric. The most important charac
istic Of the making over of these
dresses is to so combine the shades
the new goods do not deaden the ef
Of the old. There are SO many sha
now in use that this is not a diff
matter to be accomplished. Satin
serted plaitings are very extensi'
used.
They are placed between the
pieces of the waist, on the middle Of
basque, between the breadths of SIX
on the sleeves, and, in fact, on all P
Of the dress. The "souflet," as
plating is called, consists of
shaped plating, arranged in sc
plaits fastened close together on