The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1880-05-13
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Now York Fashions,

luere are Also mauVe-cOlOrPQ SaJluS
with small punches of violets, which are
arranged like the madras fichus so much
worn last summer, with the center and
wide borders. Many suits are 10 be
made in this style. The "tissu Mont
morency," new material, is covered
with designs of handsome cherries and
leaves. The groundlngi is dark garnet or
bronze color. The material is arranged
in different. sized bands, divided by light
threads. Snowy toilets for young ladies
are made of this goods, and it is also
much employed for sun-shades Surah
ana foulard continues to be the favored
materials, as they are light and soft and
admirably suited to all kinds of drapery.
Position basques and "tournur, S"
are. daily gaining in favor. With this
style of waist the fronts are pointed,
and the sides cut out over the hips,
while the backs forms position coat
tails. The waists are smaller than ever,
requiring corsets of the very best make
Satin, which hitherto has been re-
served exclusively for winter toilets, is
now extensively used on spring and
summer dresses. These have puffings of
satin down the front, and draperies and
plaitings. The trimmings. when COM
bined with Pompadour foulards and
plain surah, are very light and suitable
for summer wear, and have totally
different effect to that producei when
combined with sueh goods as velvet
vigogne. Colored faille and hrocaded
taffetas are in high favor. With the
new fancy fabrics in use. aprons are
made of satin, either in the color or the
grounding, or in one of the colors of the
design. This style is useful for making
over old dress 8.
Plain linen and batiste dresses, which
cannot be worn as they are. may be
made over in pompadour designs with
the same materials. Blue, gray, and
straw colored linen dresses may be com
bined with percale satinettes, and the
old-fashioned waists replaced by the
Vatican casaque. The plain skirt has
short train and putting of the fancy
fabric. The most imp rtant character
1st!c OF the making over of these old
dresses is to so combine the shades that
the new goods do not deaden the fleet
of the old. There are so many shades
now in use that this is not difficult
matter to accomplish. Satin inserted
plaitings are very extensively used.
They are placed between the side pieces
of the waist, on the middle of the
basque, betw cen the breadths of skirts
on the sleeves, and, in fact on all parts
of the dress. The "souff1et," as this
plating is called, consists of fan
shaped plating, arranged in seven plaits
fastened close together on the top and
left loose on the lower part.
In the outer garments in wear at
present, q style has been brought out
which was all the raye six or seven
yearsago L. is kind of" MacF Farlane "
garment. with the addition of varied
trimmings. The double pelerine has
large opening for the arm to pass
through. The lower part of the gar
ment is plated. This small cloak is
of English cheviot on wooden reps, and
is used for shopping purposes and demi-
toilets. 1t must always he of some
fancy goods. and is often lined with red
surah. The collar is sometimes made
to match, and is sometimes of velvet
in the color of the garment. The
etrangere clock is of satin, lined
with heliotrope colored satin. The
seam is cut up in the center of the back.
The seam o. the sleeve passes over the
shoulder and terminates on line with
the seam under the arm. A piece is
cut out to form the sleeve. The trim.
ming consists of bonde plaitings and
jet fringe. On the sleeves are satin rib
bon bows. The "manteau Culibri " is
of black sicilienne. 1t consists of two
pieces joined in the back seams. The
fronts close to the waist from which
point they are taken back and Joined
under a black satin bow, with passe-
menterie cords and tassels. The gnr-
ment is trimmed with ruched lace and
beads.
Toilets for halfmourning wear are
made combining black and gray faille
The ,pufted apron IS generally of plain
black taille, while the draperies are OF
the grayish silk. The gray train is II tr-
row. The waist is of black iaille and
the vest of gray. The black sleeves
have gray cuffs. Any moruning dress
made of faille or foulard may be ar
ranged in this matter
A toilet for deep p-mourning may be of
epingline and English Grape. The skirt
is trimmed with deep, plated hounce,
over which is a band OF Grape. The
front ofthe tunique is divided in'o two
parts. One OF these forms the apron and
crosses second piece, which is smaller
and forms paneI on the left side The
tunique is trimmed with a band Of Grape.
On the side of the apron is large Grape
bow, with falling loops. In the back
is puff trimmed with Grape. The
cacnemire jacket is trimmed on either
side in front with a broad bias Grape
band, and cording of the same border.
the basque and pockets On the back of
the basque is an inserted Grape plating.
The turned-down collar is of GRAPE.
The long sleeves are trimm' with two
bias bands and p aiting of crane. The
hat matching he suit is small capote,
covere with English Grape and trimmed
around the crown with Grape braid.
The Grape veil, thrown over he back of
the bonnets, is not long.
Baby dresses are trimmed more than
ever with embrOideries. The drawers
have dep trimming of embroidery (;
the petticuas have four hounces, and
the deep worked collars are to be seen
on all dresses. English dresses are
worn by children up 10 their twelfth
year, with draperics and scarls, which
seem to divide The dress into two parts,
one forming the skirt and the other a
loose fitting unique. For these dresses
many vests and plastrons are made in
fright colors. Spr tied toulards and
Madras tichus, with de'p borderings,
are made in suits tor little girls. Suits
are made for babies. from three to five
years of age, of white, blue or pink
sicilienne. These consist OF micro
scopic directoire redingotes, with triple
collars. The fashions in children's hats
are large Leghorn straws, not quite Sc
large, however, as were worn some
years ago. The brims are raised in
different parts under either a bow, q
bouquet or feather.