Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-07-01


portant duties of the future.
Among the middle or professional classes a
great many girls now earn in one way or an
other the income which either supports them
or furnishes their clothing and spending money.
The new developments In art decorative work
have helped greatly toward this end; and in
the little ones too young for @ REGULAR School
what venerable old ladies did for the young
children of the last century In their "infant
The great improvement In the dress OF the
college and high-school girls is evidence of their
Willingness to adopt better method when 1t is
subordinates Itself at once to higher interests
when these obtain foot hold. Fancy and gew
gaws, which require attention and constant
change. are Incompatible with devotion to exac-
ting and absorbing studies When students find
this out they drop them and cultivate kind OF
dress that does not take their attention from
their work. that is simple, and what is easily
adjusted This has become the rule in all first
class women's colleges, and in the best of col
legiate institutes htgh-schools. and semnaries.
FASHION AS BUG-BEAR
however, no longer exists Women Of intelli-
gence dress as they please. Some really know
little and care less about clothes, and are rather
at the mercy OF their dreSsmaker in cOnse-
quence. But there is not much gained In read
Ing about fashion because it is the business OF
the fashion v rter to avoid reiteration in regard
10 sub5e;t wi b is endless and useless itera-
ton, and in which it is necessary to work un-
important things up SO as to make them seem Inn
portant. This necessarily makes large drafts at
cares to know how little there is that is really
new under the sun? We were all born yeSter-
day and will be dead tomorrow, and we all be-
l1eVe that the world began and will die with u.s.
ALL WHITE TOILETS.
AT recent fashionable breakfast given to
young people OF both sexes IN honor ofthe re-
turn OF one OF their number, young lady, from
an extended stay abroad, ali the toilets were
white; and the remarkable thing about it was
tnat tne Idea was carried out by the gentlemen
as wen as by the ladies. The costumes of the
nf ifa farr1
or white diagonal, and were faced with white
corded or tWiled silk, with a soft finish. Pale
lavender or mauve ties We're indulged In, and
there were some white. with delicate sprigS OF
embroidery, but gloves so far as the gentlemen
were concerned were conspicuous by their alb
sence, and the majority OF the ladies wore ivory
n0unced "lOvely." How could they be other
wise? Girls never look so well In anything as
ln White, and In this instance all were tasteful
though many were simple. One Of the pret-
tiest exhibited an over-dless OF Surah, draped
away from the front over shirred skirt of fine
lndla muslin, tllmmed with white lace, the close
lace, over which hung fringe of lilies of the
valley. This trimming was repeated upon the
open F-shaped neck and elbow sleeves, also
composed OF the Surah The honored guest
wore very rich dress of white damasse gren-
adlne over short skirt OF white satin composed
OF fine pleat1ngs. over which were ruffles OF
pleated lace. The damaSSe was fringed with
lace ard pearls, and pearls festooned the dress
In 'front.' besides furnishing In a finer and more
costly form the ornaments for neck arms and
ears.
Several OF the dresses were OF white dotted
muslin, others were of tOite retiqe,,se a soft.
thin Woolen material otherwise called nuns
Yelling" These last were usually trimmed with
white satin. and several In addition, with tier
! upon tier of pleated Languedoc or Breton lace
Tor though this style OF trimming is not new
| description.
The chief points of the toiettes were:-hrst,
that the dresses were all short; second, that SO
| many We're frnged with flowers; third, that
| only high-heeled tie shoes or strapped slippers
| were worn with the fine Open-wOrked or en-
bIoidered silk stockings; fourth, that excepting
earrings and bangle bracelets, composed Of an
| iLhnlte number OF COILS there was scarcely any
| leweiry; sixth, the hair OF every one was
| hinged across the front, but otherwise dressed
! with the utmost simplicity In a low. loose knot
| or bunch Of-bra1dS or curlS, surmOu nUed with
comb, band, or silver ornament
ARTIFICIAL WILD FLOWERS.
| The imitation of roadside flowers, 10y some
| called weeds)-such as golden rod, scarlet
| feather, wild laurel, hedge roses, etc-is q
present feature Of floral fashion as found at the
miiliner,s shop; and, to carry out the idea of
| tafed in fine powdery appearance, and some
| OF the leaves, buds and flowers appear to droop
! as II half Withered. These limitations are eX-
uemely al tSt1c, and clusters of them faSten the
swiss aprons" of muslin worn at lawn tennis
| as also the tops OF lace handkerchief bags For
1he the aprons, the arrangement requires three
| little punches down the right side and one
thrust into the top of the left pocket. These
pretty notions being In such vogue increase the
| efforts to attain perfection In Initiating even
| the most Insignificant f1oweret
| TEA GOWNS AND NEGLIGE DRESSING.
Inc !oTms OF tea gowns are SO various that
near to being Tea gown; but some of tSe bret.
| ,1est are certainly the raw silk, hand embroid-
| ered at intervals with the IfnieSt of rosebudS
and hanging loose from the neck band to the
floor in what is an exaggeration OF the Vatican
shoulder-f0ld. The hem is cut into the square
Wenetlann points and profusely filled In with
fGchlng either short and stiff or knife folded.
ana TWO inches in length. Enormous ranging
sleeves; which fall back up to the very shoulder
! When the arm Is raised, and have also points
and ruchlng, display If the material is muslin,
punch OF natural flowers set into the hollow
OF the arm at the elbow. Another bunch, very
! large or natural nowers is fastened anywhere
| ma mat the Wearer peases upon the front folds Of
| the gown. profusion Of lace adorns the front
| OF tle waist careleSsly PUNCHED about the
/ tnfoat. ana carrying out the idea of extreme
,Mgs'5e as It Is now regarded by artistic author
Bernhardt appears before the American public
those who have not seen her during that trip
10 a rarlS mat everybody takes, will see In what
English and some American actresses It is
simply that she understands true neglige. In
this alone does Bernhardt's stage attire sur
pass that OF the majority OF her competitors
style, exceeding elegance, she certainly attains
OlheIs can attain the same by carefully study
ing these points of superiority but in the art
=! wearing with careless negligence What is
s!fctly the habtliment OF the boudOir she Is
aus olutely unsurpassed, as she is in the exoui-
slte taste with which she orders these special
garments. A lace peignOir which, upon many,
Would appear sloyenly, will fall about her with
artlstlc elegance, and yet its grace appears all
unstudleQ. From careleSSly arranged hair to
sllppered foot all Will carry out The idea of a
iaoy surprised In her least Sotg,te moment: but
with what cOnSummate art is every particular
studled before hand! Every fold has its IAN
guage, every frill its meaning. The whole is
simply perfect"
HOSIERY.
Ihe Iashlon OF ornamental hosiery is respon-
s.pie Ior that OF shoes In place OF boots, which
is SO prevalent this season. 1t Is pretty fash.
ION II the foot is small, and the dressing dainty
out high. .colored stockings and tie shoes do not
improve large, nat, nl-shaped feet and for these
tnere is nothing better or half so good no mat
Ter What the fashion may be, as a well made
buttoned boot. Large feet are not, however. a
characteristic OF American women. Usually
their feet are small, and would be pretty and
delicate II they were not disfigured BY the ab-
surd desire to make them look still smaller than
they are by wearing tight shoes. The American
girls foot Is particularly slender and elegantly
shaped, with high arched insJep, and Is dis
played TO perfection In the close elastic silk
stocking and high Oxford shoe, with tongue
and straps, through which q black RIBBON is
run. These are The walking shoes used instead
OF boots, with handkerchief dresses, and the
only objection to them is that they do not sup.
phe fine,t hose worn ia sjlk in nIoir ooyo,, .