Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1880-05-28
FASHION NOTES.
HINTS ABOUT DRESS.

Red Surah and also orange is much
used in Illuminating dark costumes, and
on fabrics of light quality it is fast tax
ing the place of satin in this regard, Just
as the figured foulards are preferred to
heavier brocaded silks for combining
with summer goods. 1t is considered
especially stylish to use this soft twilled
silk between the pleats of the wool skirts
of pilgrimage costumes, and also for lin
ing the hoods of the pilgrim gown. Thus
a skirt of pleated black wool has band
of Surah nearly two inches wide stitch
ed down between the triple cluster of
pleats, that are fatty pressed-not stitch
ed - from the knees down. Another
pleated skirt of blue wool is laid in box
pleats two inches wide, and the space
underneath, between the pleats, is cover
ed with bands of red Surah.
One of the favorite caprices of French
dresses is that of making the front and
sides of the skirt represent five great box
pleats, and these have eyelets worked in
the edges, and are laced down with silk
cords ending in tassels. A contrast of
color is always seen in these; thus an
ecru or drab wool dress has dark green
cord and tassels, while one of navy blue
has red eyelets, cords and tassels. The
latter makes a beautiful skirt for blue
Jersey bodices that are laced with red.
The over-skirt is then very short apron
much wrinkled, and with boufant back
drapery. To wear over the Jersey waist
in the street is short gown and hood of
blue wool shaped like the tea gowns, but
much shorter.
Pleated skirts for walking dresses are
more popular than they have ever been,
and are most variously made. Some are
box-pleated in single pleats, others are
double kits, while many have three
killed lounces covering them. Most of
the skirts of one pleating fall at the foot
on narrow pleated border, which is Oft
en- of dark orange Or red, in contrast to
the goods Of the skirt.
Ladies who make their own dresses de-
light in the full round skirts that are
not among the imported dresses. These
vary in width from three to four yards
The present fancy is to tuck such skirts
in the old-time way, having a cluster of
four to six tucks, each two inches wide,
and very close together, yet not tapping.
This is around the foot of the dress. and
may have "a knife or box pleating below
it, coming out from under the edge of the
skirt. This is very nice for thin wool
goods, though heavier cloths, such as the
Cheviots, have but one or two wide
tucks and when tailors make these dress
es, they cover the tucks with rows OF
stitching. Of course it is impossible to
slope or gore the breadths of skirts that
are to be tucked, as they must be straight
to tuck smoothly; hence these skirts are
only sloped slightly at the top of the
front and side breadths, and are deeply
shirred behind, or else laid in very full
pleats. The round waist with a wide
belt is liked with such skirts, and the
only drapery is the short wrinkled apron
confined to the front, and sewed in with
the side seams; or else there are pointed
wing like pieces on the sides, each finish
ed with a tassel, or perhaps drapery
somewhat in panier styles extends to the
sides, or it may be there are two fiat
square ends down the front tucked tc
match the skirt and edged with fringe OF
pleating. If a basque is preferred it mus
be open below the waist, to show the
shirred skirt, and to do this the entire
back is sometimes divided into pieces
that are caught together at the ends, anC
each finished with tassel; or else thu
middle seam is opened below the waist
and turned toward each side in reverse
leaving the shirring in view.
Sleeves of these simple dresses arr
, made quite full at the top, and are gath
cred in at the arm-hole to make then
stand up slightly like the leg-of-muttor
sleeves. The wrist is finished in tn,
simplest manner, without cuff, an(
with stitched edges; it is usually lief
open short distance up the OUTSIDE
, seam, that lace may be gathered there
[ and carried up the open part. For thin
wool dresses nuns yelling or the thicker
French buntings are made up in thu
styles just described. Drab, ecru,. ant
| black are the popular colors for sucl
dresses and the entire dress is of on,
piece, without silk or figured goods il
J combination. The block Cheviots, il
2 Gray shades, the rough English home
spuns and coachman's drab cloth are
used for heavier suits. Dark brown is til,
; favorite col.r for homespun cloth, es
, pecially when there are irregular rec
threads woven in it, Shepherds checl
is also again stylish for very young ladie
| and misses.
, LINGERIE.
The fine gold lace with threads as fin,
, as linen is combined with other laces il
fichus, breakfast caps, etc. 1t is warrant
ed not to tarnish and is so light and del.
icate that it brightens up the white fab
ric, yet does not look like theatrical tin.
, sci. Thus there are collarettes of Ian
, guedoc lace made in tull frills and will
fichu fronts, on which row of narrower
l = I I Al. A.