Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-04-15
FOR THE FAIR SEX.



Dressy costumes for street wear dur
ing the spring and summer are made
with a fancifully cut surtout, or redin-
cote, rs it Is also called. and al full short
skirt bordered with heavy thick
ruche, or else cluster of narrow plait-
ings. The idea in such costumes seems
TO be that of dispensing with al drap-
cry. and giving the desired roundness
by the fullness of the skirt, also by the
richness of the material used in the
skirt. The fancy for directoire styles
has brought this undraped toilette into
fashion, and it has also contributed the
exaggerated revers collar and pockets
which belong to the directoire cos
tunes. Brocade is chosen for the long
coat, and either plain satin, silk OF
heavy quality, satin de Lyon, or velvet
for the skirt. Black directoire suits
are very stylish, with facings of satin,
either red. cream-color, or heliotrope.
showing on the coat. Single breasted
coats have the wide notched directoire
collar set on, while those with double
breast have it cut as part of the
coat. The seam at the waist line,
with the pockets set there, is
used TO give ashort-waisted appearance.
The back is made of the two middle
side beginning in the armhole. Below
the waist line the seams are left open.
and the skirts are lined with colored
twilled silk, or else satin; this gives
four straight hanging pieces of the coat
skirt. Two large buttons of enamel or
OF bronze, or else painted pearl, define
the waist in the middle seams of the
back, and under these buttons the waist
line seam begins, rs the middle back
forms are the only ones that are con-
tinuous. The skirt has four straight
breadths, and single gored breadth,
which is in front. The width at the
bottom is about four yards. Sometimes
Innings, and indeed weights. are ADDED
to these skirts; but this is superfluous,
as most ladies take great comfort in the
sight weight OF these new costumes.
and also in the fact that fifteen yards
are now sufficient, when formerly from
twenty to twenty-five were required,
A broad band of the brocade win serve
for trimming Mt the bottom, or, when
economy is the first requisite, the skirt
may be left quite plain; but there is a
much prettier effect given when n wide
ruche or n cluster OF three or four fine
knife-plaitings borders the skirt. A
black brocaded satin surtout, lined with
lavender satin, and worn over n full
skirt of plain satin de Lyon, makes a very
rich costume for the street. Dark green
brocade is very handsome faced with
cream or old gold, or else with red satin,
and plating of the red satin is then
placed around the foot of the green skirt
by way of illumination" Beaded
cords, with passementerie spikes rather
than tassels at the end, are draped around
the hips to hang in front or on the left
side: Sometimes beaded fabric is used
for the directorie collar. cuffs and pocket
flaps OF plain black satin coats.
Ladies who object 10 surtout suits be-
cause they are not used in the house, rs
many short dresses now are, have bro
caded skirted coats of medium length,
with plain silk or satin de Lyon skirts
trimmed with brocade like the coat
Lengthwise trimmings of brocade are
considered most effective, such as an en-
tire front breadth cut out in forked
tongues at the lower edge, and made to
rest there at the foot upon two or three
fine knife plaitings, which are also con-
tinued across the side cores, and some
times all around the skirt A brocaded
panel revcrs on each side gore, showing
faclngs OF satin its whole length, is an
other design for trimming such skirts;
the front breadth is then wrinkled
slight y, and the back is covered by two
straight breadths shirred in clusters, or
at most very irregularly draped for
stout ladies two and half or indeed
three full breadths are sometimes worn,
hanging straight and plain in the back,
with very deep shirring on the tournure.
Apron effects, shirred scarfs and moder-
ate paniers are, However, still used by
those TO whom they are becoming, and
they will remain popular during the
summer because they are so well adapted
to grenadines, fine buntings and other
transparent fabrics. The Tallien over
skirt, open up the LEFT side. and scarfs
that hang in Oriental style down the
left side, where they end in tassels, are
favorite designs for such drapings.-
Bazar.