New-York tribune., 1880-09-26
THE FASHIONS.
NEW STYLES FOR Autumn WEAR.

NEW STYLES FOR AUTUMN WEAR.
xovEI DESIGNS IN HATS AND BoSNETs-THE
DERRY OUT OF FAvoR-IHE MANIA FOR ANTIQUE
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES OF NEW COLOR AND
TEXTURE FOR DRESS GOODS - RECIPE FOR
CoLORIyG LACKS.
The tide of fashion has returned from the seaside
with the mellow days of autumn. and now appears
en- Broa dway and the richly dlght IN iitian
red and dove-coor besprinkled Ith glittering IN
crustatons and baI monious blendngs of champagne
color with palest tcru, rosy garnet and changing
pheasant. "lovely blue playing into green" cinna-
mon and gold, and gold into copper and intense
purple chestnut browns and amber lights III
chameleon and exquisite chene stuffs. The French
modises have already altered the sweep OF their
cutting shears, and the manufacturers announce
change of designs and colors therefore series OF
tremendous revolutions takes place. and certain ar
tisans cry out piteously the nexorahe course OF
fashion flngs to one side the wares that few
weeks ago were so coveted and cherished. branding
them with that fatal mark. questionable" which
renders them useless and unstable for the next
seven wears. Notwithstanding this, New-fork
seems compelled to dress according TO Partisan dc
tates in some shape or other.
The new silks and sltins very rich and elegant, are
rivaed by the richness and Costumes OF the trn-
mings that accompany them Bonnets also obey
the general order of change not only In shape, Dnt
material Smooth felts east somewhat III the
shade last year this year witnesses their downfall
The fclts are plush-fnishe the beavers are IKE
fur i'm ouality and the finest bOnnets are OF SILK
plush and velvet or if they have smooth beaver
crowns they have fluffy fur brims and facings. Inc
small capote shape returns again with front pro-
iectinC az the top but clIpgng closey at the sides
in some capotes the brm is very pcrccptby rolled
back The crowns are Of medium shape and stih.
and they are worn we'll back on the head. At this
writing there are signs OF the lnharnonlouS
! Derby and young ladies who have been initiating
men in them and hdeous ulsters VIII be forced to
/ return to feminine prettinesses in beautiful ana
| pc,uresoue Rubens and Galnsb0rough hats, or the
| smaller hats in the shape of large English turbans
! with full crown and rolling brin. these hats ana
J bonnets have no other lining than the furry beaver
/ They are IN such colors as POmpean red, dull
/ green varying from myrtle to dusky olive, purple
shading from the richest tnts to pacst heliotrope,
and mauye drab, Carmete brown creamy white
and black Some of these hats are simply trimmed
with a coId-twistcd chenille cordeIier of the same
shade passed several times around the crown. fin
,shed with large tassels having the tops en-
| brcidered with gold beads. An ecccntnc and
! p,cturrsoue broad-brmmed imported hat Is OF thlck
fur beaver IN closest imitation of ticer skin IN Its
| motted shades the left side Is caught up close
| agai,st the crown and held in place by Il large
tigers paw with gold claws from this starts an
ostrich plume of darkest brown varying into the
Ughtest amber sweeping around the crown ard iall-
Inc Low behind. An imported turban has a large
crown of rcn brown velvet laid on loosely; the top
is embroidered in imitation OF two curved plumes
| of shaded fine chenille. gold beads and silver gilt
| thread fading at the ends lnro paest ecrn. large
twisted gold dagger Is placed on one SIDE small
! capote Is covered with fine back lace heavily ana
| oftt VI
| on each side meeting beneaGn the chln over the
~ ide black two-taced velvet and satin strings.
Among new materials there - IA snOrt-rDDe piuSh
Looking very like da gonal uncut velvet; It com
hines well with the tnlck tWllied rurah SILK ana
heavy satin. An imported cap9te shape Is covered
with this elegant taOrc OF delicate amber TINT :;
the back and brim are edged win moss plush. As
false hair Is now Abandoned the new shapes, es-
peciallv that called the POKE, wnlcn narcs very
Inuch IN front. lii closely at the back. Extreme
natural simplicity is seen IN back HAIR lhere Is an
enormous quantity OF ieathers-the Jdspe shideu
feathers ana feathers showing two distinct cOlo's
such as red and green old gold and dark brown
mink 6rrH with dark ruby. new feather has two
colors differently arranged the long exterior Ma
mpIts arc tor instance bright gold color and the
-oft down beneath IS deiieate gray or putty color
large pompons having three in Il oaster, when
black are busted tblckly over Win guld or Jet
sorinkltngs They are, however. seen In all cOlOrs
and sometimes III mingled tnts OF the golden
uheasant or hummlng blrd. lhe GansborOugh
ms are nearly covered with black noddiDg plumes.
Jet has lost none of prestige and Is everywhere
go some of the iet-trInmcd and j-t-embI oIdered
bounets and hats enormously heavy. The
feathers or plumage of the brilliant lophodore,
impean peacock and pheasant, and hnest downy
gray hens are worn IN turbans or toques used tor
fine entire shape two wings Ike those or Mercury
are placed behind. their sharp points touching slm-
nIv but not tapping These gay feathers are
made up into diadems, buckles, OAK leaves and
acorns berries and pine cones. The gay kerchiets
made of twilled Surah silk are very much used for
trimming also III plalded Velvet, plush
and silk crossbarred with large chenille There are
mo tnce trimmings the furry beaver, silk plush and
chenille cloth being considered more becoming than
ANYTHING else. The new material tor strings, which
are very long and wide. IS an old-time changeaole
silk showing two cOlors for Instance a green silk
has a red lining. the red tlnts showing IN the face
of the green the creaIn-cOlOred Dack OF another
sannhire ribbon shows IN changing tlnts on the
blue Some very wide satin Surah strings are a
quarter of a yard wide. In the new style OF Dor
fe,s some of the bonnet strings have a border of
nush or velvet set the edges These wide strings
Are fastened under the chm IN a large bow, and
clasped with little wild ooar WIN ruby eyes and
extended legs or tiny whlte elephanf Oh gold and
IVORY iewellcd, hanging from golden pin that
secures the strings. On another golden jewelled
bar a little gold kitten plays with "A Dali made OF
n large pearl Generally there are earrings to
matcn the cOifWe PIN, no matter now eccentric (;
pore-reine bracelets also correspond All
manner of quaint old ornaments are searched for.
not for their intrinsic value, out tor artistic designs
Rock crystal Rhine and other pebbles set in dull
silver. after LOUIS AV style, are In demand Tor
snoe buckles. belt slldes aud clasps, also for Oonnets
and bonnet strings. The blIc ok straw hats and OOn-
nets for early autumn are prOtdsely trimmed with
feathers and great deal OF jet and chenille. While
thers u an enormous quantity of iridescent beads
nsed the preference is for amber. Some amber
nlusn and amber satin capotes are embroidered IN
nalms feathers or flowers and stars with shaded
amber beads.
Among the first and most important of the early
aufumn openings ~ tnat of paper patterns for the
million whereby the woman Of limited means can
make her dress at home fashiOnably, by obey ing
the slmpe instructions, as the most expert modste.
ar a very trlfl ng cost. The Voletta costume has a
very distinQushed appearance. consisting of long.
fitting polonaise reaching quite 10 the bottom
of the SIX rt at sides and looped high in the middle
of the back, and Is combined with short walking
srt nan IN front aud at the sides and pleated full
at the hack There are broad the the waist
rhat are connected with deep Capuchin hood,
| Il