The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-09-30
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

The Directoire cloak is one OF the most ele-
CANT models of the long cloaks to be worn in
the autumn and winter The shape will also
commend itself for its simplicity, as it consists
merely of two breadths, shaped by one seam
behind, shirred at the top to make it fit around
the neck and shoulders, and with an armhole
in each side TO which is added flowing Orien-
tai sleeve piece. The style of the garment
depends upon its fine fit and its full trimming
of lace or else fringe that is as full as a
ruche for the latter chenille fringe
or else heavy jet fringe is pre-.
ferred. The trSiming borders the en-
tire garment extending up each side
of the breadth behind, which is left open from
the waist down The cloak for early Autumn
wear is not made of heavy materials The fin
est black India camel's hair is used for the out
side, and the lining is caroubier Surah with
satin finish. A wide band of black satin is
placed like a border ON the edge of the gar
ment, as this lustrous fabric makes the lace
which is laid upon it look much richer. The
ribbon for loops and strings is black satin,
with red On the other side. Tho lace is the
French lace initiating real thread lace; the
Spanish, Breton, and ietted laces are also used
for such wraps If the garment is to be worn
in the Winter warm plush Innings of high col
ors are chosen, or else the cloak is lightly
wadded, and lined with satin. A black satin
Directoire cloak is q very stately garment,
| trimmed with lace, or chenille, or jet fringe
| and lined with old gold plush, or heliotrope,
| cardinal red, or, if it is for an elderly lady.
| with olive green plush. Black velvet cloaks
| are similarly made and trimmed. Fur-lined
| garments for this Winter will be made by this
| design: the outside will be brocaded satin de
| Lyon, Sicilienne, or heavily repped silk, and
/ :e trimming will be fox fur or chinchilia Dor.
| ders to which lace or fringe is added. The full
| high trimming about the neck is stylish fea-
| ture of this wrap, and is sometimes made OF
| wide feather rrche, or else collar OF fur with
| long fleece.
The first choiee among materials for combi-
nation dresses will be an arrangement Of plush
| with camels hair in the way now so popular
| for brocaded and plain silks. For instance,
/ the plush will be used for the basque, and the
| camel's hair for the short skirt and lts drspe-
| ry. In some cases bands of plush are added as
| trimming on the lower skirt, but it is con-
| sidered more stylish to confine the plush to
| the basque. This basque is medium long, sin
| gle-breasted, and may be even all around the
| Rims or else the middle forms may be slightly
| nrolopged and held in two great box pleats.
The garmsnt is made to fit with tailor-like pre-
| cision, and is as entirely without trimming as
| a geptleman's coat; indeed, all stitching ON
edges
| Is not even a piping of satin on the edges, as
| the plush is merely turned under and faced
| with silk. The buttons, however, are very Or
| namental and consist of three sizes; the first,
an inch in diameter. is Tor fastening the front;
| size slightly larger is put on the outer seam oil
the plaiu sleeves, whilo half dozen still larger
| buttons are used ON the pockets and Tor dehn-
| ing the waist line at the back The camels-
hair for the skirts of such suits rs as thick as
cloth. vet soft and flexible making beautiful
| drapery when arranged as an apron overs klrt,
! and permanently attached at the belt to the
| lower skirt A pleating OF the wool STUN win
| a narrower pleating OF satin below completes
| this costume. This is very handsome IN seal
/ brown. in olive and in dark garnet colors
| Sometimes the figured plush is used ior the
| coat.basaue but the preference Is 1or tne Piain
| plush of deep thick pile, as handsome as yeivet
and as warm looking as iur inneeu, % ist.tao ao
| seal brown plush is used IL Is oiteh mistaken
for seol skin fur A maroon plush basque wit1
| cameo bronzed buttons is very handsome with
| Riarritz cloth skirt and apron overskrt.
| single band of plush eight inches wlde oorders
sha io,ger skirt. while similar band on the
A! anran is edged with chenille fringe tnat mas
| strands as thick as a lady's finger, and each
| strand is finished by a satin ball; the back OF
this overskirt is buufant, yet isiis IN two iong
| ends that are each finished with large tassei
| of chenille. This chenille fringe is especiany
1 suited for trimming plush, and IS really the
| only thing that does not detract from lls
| beauty Tinted pearl buttons carved IN now
i
| shades for seal brown plush basques. The cos
| tune, combining plush with camel s-hair
/ skirts nromises to be the favorite for church or
| street SUITS or for the handsome saits SeIec.eu
by brides for the wedding Journey ror uay
| rscention. and more dressy occasions, such as
| ceremonious visits the draped ekirt VIII pe
made of satin de Lyon, heavy twilled Surah'
| or of brocaded Six go Ill, -
| lady's.cloth but show their twilled weaving
| sIigbtlv: they ate imported in many new red
| .tal.iu5 blue aud green with olive
| maroon. and many drab shades. Inc nne
qualities are $3.50 yaro: 1nelo % s "Lo o'',gis 'I
With mummy cloth weaving ihat sho" tle
| 49, 49, naaIe ~ colors, aud cost $3.50 yard.
1 IT, hast Qualities of stocking net known as
IarSen webbing. are forty-eight inches wide,
and 81 a yard in the styilsh purple, o,ss,
wine rad. and olive shades Biarrltz cloIn is
W., matu ro3;ved and commends itself from the
| fact that it's lengthwise reps are easily orusneo
| elan The Cheviots for making the enelre
| suit in taior-iike fashions ana are SIM M
liar in style and colors' 70 ,ha;r hnsi-
.elnais Rrow, in the pheasant shades pre-
walls among these fabrics, anu 70 In hrot.',,
with threads of blue, red or iJ,,hIa u.id,L
plalds and checks These a are e. uouv,9 '.r' soms
and cost from Siio 10 larger plaid stripe or 'bor-
% Sio pio' pio,,rr the selvedge. Very quaint coiois
ea e ''''a3,;ped in small checks III camel Snar
% ,vhich a Gobelin border IS aaoeu lne
hanSngaSt siht and widths costing from II % to
I Sd square the more costly % ones arc IeosSss a%@
yards square, but the sm"ivl More es. eas.
aFs arranged nD in the costume Some asd @o- 30
| distes prefer buying the plain iapI 10 ;, .oI
eeting r pads Of large size and }qaln' P1Sm eoi co
erng to combine with wit, rbnSsnnt ,nem brown Gor-
ored handkerchieis with p,le'Iiih nt,iish. For under
ssFs sS. are s0nsSs5a BsSaSse mixed 7h and
sSqs s and sns SSs'lqs prsopa spS soot %
sseaa ao,.rn,er,Iooking o. nna stuffs now have black
ternstng aIesu with red. old gold or blue stripes