New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-08-15
MOUNT DESERT.
,,orxr,Ns AT THR sEAsHoRr-PENoBsCoT BAY
NEW KEsORr For FASHION.

nm HARBoR Mount Desert. Aug. 9.-Tnere
-, mo few summer DAYS more peaceful and
Iobcious than that which is spent aboard the
.-o,or Iewiston. vOyaging in July weather from
p,,,Iand 70 Mount Desert. The Lewiston, being
loo boat with masts and sails conveys to the in
xn,r,euced traveller a vague impression of tossing
h,llows and dangers of the rocky coast beyond the
-onass of paddle-wheels alone. But the ordinary
s,vmer trip is as quiet as an excursion TO Rock
ov. | mean as quiet with respect 10
.ho behavior of the sea it is great deal quieter If
rrs take into account the behavior of the passen-
,ars The steamer leaves Portland between IL and
70 at night--or on arrival of the trains from New
york and Boston; and running only a safe distance
bovoud the headauds of the deeply serIated coast,
makes a stop about sunrise at Rocklard Oh the
western shore OF the Penobscot Bay. From this point
70 the end of the the voyage is the very dy OF
steamboat travel. There are several bays and har-
bors each of which is well known to be the most
beautiful in the wOrldfor instance. those OF New
York Naples San Francisco, Genoa and Queens
,own-bnt | think expansive Peuobscot Bay, with
IFS scores of big green islands, its coves
and inlets. its nesting white towns us
sparklng and sheltered waters must De paceu
high on the list. As the Lewiston Steams across
this broad arm of the winding her course III ana
out among wooded islands. through narrow straits
10 the balt Cilt> touNAlHS lh7R '''
Castine and later at Sedgwck and Deer Isle we
feel II TO he rather an advantage than otherwise
that she Is not AT all fast Speed would not ut the
placld scene On the land side the bold coast, with
its rocky sea-wa and the bright green slopes ABOVE
i set against the dark blue BACKGROUND OF distant
mountains southwark stretches the lihmltaDie
ocean. dotted with white sails far away
The fresh breeze is loaded with the IN
vigoraring perfume of the salt sea; ana
from Tune to time II blows across the islands II
brings rs also the pungent aroma of the pines. II
Is not he least of the attractions OF these pctur-
esQue waters that the rounded lsets with hardly an
exception are clad almost to the edge with Stalwart
and sharp-outlined evergreens. have heard tray
oilers say that the scenery OF Penobscot BAY is
much ike that of the Norwegian hOrds.
The high ridges of Mount Desert rose straight be-
fore us as we pushed through the archipelago
About noon We rounded the seaward point, and en-
tering the long. narrow sound which runs north and
south between PERCEPTIONS mountains almost clear
through the centre of the island We landed at
Southwest Harbor Here is quiet little village
where hotels and clearinghouse have not
vet put the lObster-cannng industry ont OF cOunte-
nance Only few of the passengers left us at this
alluilug spot. Some sought the unpretendng places
of entertainment near the whaIf Others had their
trunks lowered INTO sail-bOats and row-boats, and
so sped away across the coves and nlets TO pretty
cottages before whose doors the wash OF the bay
broke La lilly on the stones. There was wonderful
nrospect inland, where the sound filed all
the chasm between the abrupt mountains
We coasted all along the south shore of the
island close to bold beadlands and PIC
,nresoue caves and turned into Frenchmans
Ray which lies on the eastern margin of Mount
Desert dotted. like Penobscot, with pine covered
islands Bar Harbor. the principal settlement and
the centre of gayety is not visible untl you
are close upon it. Sheltered by projecting point,
Il turns itself away from the and looks up to-
ward the head of the bay and the Schoodic Noun
tains on the mainland. bar of pebbles. bare at
low tide connects 1t with a craggy island ana
gives name. The ocean s net TO be seen from the
village streets unless You will take little trouble
10 And the proper point of view. ana sui1 IN
summer Is phenomenon. Faced on the north
and west by the steep mountains up whose
lower slopes the cottages are gradually
climbing Bar HarbOr offers beautiful
outlook every hand; but IT'S advantages as
q pleasure resort not naturally so great as
those of Southwest HarbOr The frigate Constitu-
ton, entering the bay just as we dad, gave MS an
opportunity. as we steamed along beside her. OF
ENJOYING that noble sight, well-managed ship
under full sail. About o'clock III the midst OF
feet OF yachts and little boats, the Lewiston
made last to the pier, auU 40 pein"hS' III o''"S"
of the picturesque and the uncon ventonal walked
ashore.
They found the picturesque on the wharf Rows
of Young ladies' four five deep, stretched as far
a. the bewilCered eye had time and strength 10
reach and past the batteries of these curious far
ones and their attendant cavaliers the shamefaced
travellers made their painful way. Many OF the
gentlemen on the wharf were clad III kmckerDocK-
ers OF boating SUITS but the ladies were radiant IN
lovely costumes and their delicately gioved hands
held brilliant parasOls OF crimson or wnlte SILK OF
japanese paper. Even those ingenious syrens VINO
fit to don the apparel consecrated by nodistes
10 the seashOre aud to shipboard knew now 10
make themselves the pink of fashion and the acme
of style. Presently most OF them Tell 10 KISSING
some new arrival; the big trunks were trundled
ashore, and the cloud of millinery swept up lhe
dusty street. 1t was a pretty sight but alas for
the Unconvention al Mount Desert is no
longer the haunt of the hunter the
fisher and the genteel tramp. 1t is copying
the manners of Newport and Saratoga. ana VIII
learn before long to emulate their extrava0ance.
Lands which were worth few years ago Only h'e
OF six dollars acre have been sold TINS year lor
two thousand dollars acre. There are waer-"orKs
There are street-lamp posts as yeI without any
lamps IN them. There is newspaper. There are
street-sprinklcrs. The very "buck-boards " have
been vanished till they make your eyes ache, and
some OF them have set up springs! Try Dr.
Dosems Pasters" painted the rocks. 10
crown all, there is uniformed police force nave
the names Of sixteen hotels i'll Bar Harbor' several
OF which give frequent hops, aud have rooms
for 300 400 or 500 people That popular resort
Kept by Mr. Desises, and locally known as DE
sizzess Hotel" is beginning to be styled, ID de-
based French, the Hotel Des Isle" and, dare say
IN the course Of another season its sIgn-DOafd
VIII develop he normal agreement between
The substantive aud the article. The summer
Quests supposed TO number ABOUT
oo0o' and they are increasing WIN
great rspidity. All the energies of the permanent