The Emporia news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1859-1881, 1880-06-25
SOMETHING BERGH WOULD STOP.



The conquest OF Strasburg by the
Germans has added 10 the empire a city
Of 5000 people and several millions of
geese, 10000 of which are devoted TO
strange uses. These geese live and die
for the benefit of the few exquisite
hvers and the many men and women,
especially men, WHO like To act the part
of the gourmand and are willing to nav
for II, a. well as to indulge in culinary
NIB occasionally. These geese are edu-
Gated with sole regard for their liver,
the latter being used for the .p0tes de
foEes gras,h which go around the world,
packed IN boxes or the pots of Saar-
genund, of which the latter are rather
preferable. The first pate of goOseliver
on record was made by the Romans. In
order TO get the liver large and fat the
geese were placed in iron cages, their
heads sticking out in such way as to
make its withdrawal. impossible and
life wretehed. To make misery com
plete bright fire was burning close by,
Keeping up a temperature in which
three geese out of four persisted,
while the fourth succeeded, on the
strength OF three or four meals a day. to
develop miserable body and an enor
nous liver Roman gentlemen occasion
ally had their anseraria where the ami
mails were fed on figs, as Horace says:
or juicy figs they make food for the
liver OF the goose" When the luxury of
Rome was swept away by the Teutonic
migration OF nations, it is reported that
the Jews retained the secret of the goose
liver, and the whole secret of the modern
pate was divulged only by the French
revolution, although the philosophers
who helped to bring it ON enjoyed the
dish hugely, provided it was saturated
with the aroma of the trutfle The Jews
had mild preference for onions, but
Close, native of Normandy and chief
de cuisine to Marshal COntade, who was
commander in Alsace from 1862 to 1888,
decided that large, fat gooseliver was
too good for onions and garlic; he filled
with trutt1es, surrounded il with a danti-
ly chopped veal, enveloped tue affair in
the richest dough, and gave it slow
stew. But he insisted on an enormous
liver, the Perigord trutf1e and appreci-
readily among the male and female
6edr-espFits, the higher clergy and the
intellectual leaders; men of affairs are
occasionally too prudent to be gour-
mands. In 1878 Close decided to find
constituency of his own; he set up for
himself in the rue Mesange, and now the
dish enjoys an international reputation
The Russians admire it greatly; it is
liked in France and England, and much
in America. The Germans call it
Le6erpGStite and are quite up to its re-
finements.
America will never produce much of
this food for mellow palates, unless all
its pRevention-of-cruelty societies adjourn
SINE de. For the whole process of max
ing it is unnatural and not specially ap-
40 hae oil 10,
about nine months old; they are placed
in dark, damp cellar, where they are
tied on stone tables with their backs
down and their necks unsupported,
while wings and feet are separated as far
as possible. For about u week the I'M
happy creature struggles and screams
against such human fiendishness; then
sets in period of dull resignation,
which lasts five or six weeks. They are
fed once in two hours, or rather forced
TO digest little dumplings of stewed
corn, buckwheat and chestnuts, and this |
process IS repeated six times day. Fl !
nally the birds approach their natural
end, and the great point is to kill them |
just before They are usually SO far
gone as to be unable to make any re- |
sistance; they have no real meat, but |
their liver weighs about three pounds, |
and consists chiefly of fat; the rest is |
sold for about ten cents. The liver is |
then filled with about pound and a |
half of truffles, and placed on ice for a
week. Then it is cut up in slices and |
placed alternately with the most delicate
of finely chopped meats, in tin boxes or
earthen pots, covered with pure and |
tasteless fat, and stewed for about five |
hours. The article is now ready for the
market of five continents, and the rule is
TO like it. The last prevention ofcruel-
~ officer who made his appearance in
was denounced as Socialist,
and barely escaped with his life