Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-03-01
THE EVENING STAR.
March L, 1850.
SPRING FASHIONS,

| -SFh1NG FASHIONS,
| New Cooperative Dress Associa.
n0m-What the Next few Weeks
w .na r Develop Develop i'm Springs Goods
From Our O,cn Correspondent
| NEW YORK, Feb. Is.
The most hopeful sign about the dress of
women is the gradual distaste which the more
intelligent Of them begin to feel and express for
| the changes and vagar1es OF fashion, and espe-
cially for the printed rubbish known as fashion
articles-that there is way of treating the
level into the region Of Intelligence, If not art
There is no doubt-it has been done already but
chiefly by men-by and by, with the Drained
women that the colleges OF to-day are preparing
for the work of the future, we shall have the
subject Of dress treated from higher stand
point and get rid OF the catalogues OF bonnets
only merit is that they fill space and can be
multiplied dd minimum. What is there in dress,
after all, any more than in a name? 1 remem-
Der modest little country girls in England, who
looked sweeter and fresher In new lilac cotton
dresses, white ''tippits" and straw bonnets at
Easter than our girl0look in their conventional
from the beginning till the end. There are old
fashions which we call ''hideous," yet women
were loved perhaps more truly then than now,
so that the style OF dress has nothing to do with
Tie eternal laws and nature OF thtngs-beSides,
to come back to the original idea, the new inter-
ests which women Of all classes, in one way or
til gent women themselves: Does so much
time and money spent on dress pay?'
The answer is invariably NO" it does not
accept what iS-at least the majority must or
cruelty yourself or be crucihed. Then comes
the practical question again, "Does martyrdom
pay?" ana the answer In ninety nine cases
would be, in such cause, mo" Well, all
right! They go ahead as usual, and so do we
High prices are paid, work is badly done, and
the result Is so unsatisfactory that 1t forms the
subject OF conversation at the next Jea-party.
A NEW CO OPERATIVE DRESS ASSOCIATION.
At meeting held recently at the house of a
Field presented the plan of newco operative
dress association on the same principle as one
Incorporated in London In May. 1917, and of
which the Duchess of st. Adams, the Duchess of
Westminster, the Marchioness Of Huntley, the
Lady Cornelia Guest, Julia, Countess of Jersey,
the Countess OF Lacester, the Lady Francis
have become the PatroneSSeS, in addition to
many well known leaders In society and the pro-
LESSONS. The idea seems to have taken root
bly, ubk &c occasion referred to represented
very exclusive as well as very Intelligent
classes and the subscribers to the stock were
ladies. The object Of the association as express
cd in the statement made byMssFleld is to estab-
fish cooperative store where all kinds of dress
! goods for ladies and children, made and I'M
| made, can be obtained by the addition of small
percentage to the cost of goods and workman
ship. only shareholders can be customers,
benefit of the reduced cost of materials and gar
ments but also to six per cent interest on the
investment 1t is stated that the capital of the
London company was turned during the first
two months at the rate Of six times per annum.
The shares have market value in London, and
register is to be kept of the persons wishing
not proposed to begin active operations before
next autumn, but in the meantime the Subscrip.
tion books will be open, Miss Kate Field act
ing temporarily rs secretary for the company
II there is reason for the organization Of
such an association In London, this ten-fold
! stronger in New York, where the cost of dress
ly high class is exorbitant. The great difficulty
will be In earring the right kind of labor to
perform the work. The want OF trained and
conscientious workmen and workwomen being
the greatest barrier to success in the manufac-
ture OF women's clothing In this country. There
is also among our own people want of the
habit of economy and care in dealing with ma
terials, and this in the aggregate gives to for
eign competitors the great advantage over
native manufactures.
This obstacle, however, it is supposed, can be
readily surmounted. II trained and economical
operatives cannot be found here, they can be
imported, while the fact that every customer is
a shareholder, and thus in some sort pro-
prietor, will give them personal interest In the
Institution and make them more willing to see
| the merits than the defects. Ladies everywhere
are invited d to become partieipators In this
| shareholders: that they can send with contl-
| dence "a. whatever they require, sure Of being
treatedNkactly as If they were on the spot or
obtaining their goods or garments at reason.
able cost, and Of receiving a dividend out Of
their own purchase. The sense OF security is In
itself benefit not to be lightly valued, and will
attract large number of those ladies who have
been accustomed to send to New York for
spring and tall outfits, and who find how diff
cult 1t is to conduct such operations satisfac-
toriiy unless through intimate knowledge of a
business house or some person connected With 1t.
SPRING STYLES.
What charm there is in the new spring ma
terialS, In the delicate shades of color, in the
lovely combinations, in the quaint artistic de-
signs, and fine, soft teXtures The tenderness
Of summer atmosphere surrounds them. You
can think of them only in connection with Eng
fish paintings in water cOlOrS, and English
Eaidens holding up their skirts on the long grass,
feeding their birds or tying up their wild-rose
vines.
The goods are lovely. They make one
ache with their beauty, for one feels how the
designer must have glowed and thrilled within
himself owe, over his happy thought how the
growing up under his hand; and now it lies
| there-too good for 1t uses. For what can one
do with beauty that soils, or is tearable, or
bre akable, in this work-a day world but put it
on shelf? The useful is what is required, and
there is very little change, and not much that is
attractive about that. We only miss 1t when
talizng an element in the young woman's life
| OF to-day, as one can imagine. She is dainty;
she is Intelligent; she Is appreciative She has
emerged from the school-room upon this de-
Ightful world full of things which seem to have
been made to give her pleasure: but she cannot
have them. The modern gospel Is that she must
be Self-rellant and Self-SuppOrting; and that
means dark stiff dresses and thick boots and an
English walking Jacket, and sunlight and fresh
air shut out. After five years of this sort OF
thing she will have grown sallow, be dubbed an
old maid, and If she wears pretty dress be
criticised for trying to appear young. Art,
which Is mostly shut up in Seven-by-nfne
studios, has passion for outdoors, and is I'm
parting it to the rest Of the world. Or perhaps
1t is the gypsy instinct In us which revolJs from
confinement within four walls and is eternally
reaching out into the beyond. But what an
iron task-masJer this selfsupporting, this work.
ing necessity is!
1t is the duty of those who can illustrate this
charm and beauty of dress to do so for the benefit
OF those of us who cannot. II must wear a
dark walking dress, for the sake of economy, at
an afternoon reception, l am none the less
obliged to my hostess and the ladies with her
for receiving me in rosebud Vatican" with
lace and ribbon, Or classic white gown with a
golden Zone-tn fact she adds to her hospitality
The inspiration Of ideas, the subtle influence of
a refined and harmonious atmosphere full of
suggestive thought and indicative Of taste. l
pass in my rusty dress pretty yard or garden
or even window where is girl, fail, with golden
hair and milk white skin which has not been
cOarSened by exposure or darkened by hard life
and narrow circumstances. She wears straw
hat, and dress Of some simple cotton fabric
but light and dainty, and Is as unfit for rude
work, for the routine wear and tear which Is
neceSSarF to the earning of so much per week