Delaware state journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1870-1883, 1880-09-09

ampreknaDie CltAuel-lue EUernAl
'TIps'' = Shower of Moods -
Breakneck Stairs Dangerous
Dwelling Places-The Irrcsistabie
March of Modern Progress.
Special correspondence Of. State journal
QUEBEC, August 3O.-"Don't expect too
much pleasure" was the last warning of
cynical friend to our party, just setting
out on its holiday tour. ''Places are, after
all, very much alike, barring a few de-
gross of altitude and temperature; and
people are much more So" Had our
fri Idly cynic accompanied us thus far on
our travels, he could have been triumph
autly refuted, for certainly neither Quebec
nor its people resemble very closely any
thing that we have ever seen.
One of the walled cities of medieval
Europe dropped bodily on the border of
the st. Lawrence could not have q more
strangely foreign effect than has this
quaintest of towns; and the brown. faced,
quick-glancing, French-speaking people
that form the greatest part of its popula-
ton, bear as little likeness to the types
with which we are familiar. With all
their vivacous looks they never seem to
be in hurry, these French Canadians
The deadly struggle for getting on"
which penetrates to the very bone of the
Anglo-Saxon. does not seem to affect
them to any desperate extent. That
is the first generalization which we
made, and it WAS forced upon us on the
south bank OF the st. Lawrence while wit
Messing the lu1icrous deliberation with
which the baggage of the train of the
Grand Trunk railroad, upon which we had
arrived was transferred to the ferry boat
that lay ready to carry passenger to
Quebec. To this boat We had FASTENED
with the usual Yankee" prompitude, but
the bulk of the better informed passen-
gers came lounging along at intervals of
five minutes, followed much later by q
small truck drawn by single horse which
crept carefully down to the end of the
wharf where helt dozen Canadian por-
tiers seized each the smallest valise or
package that could be singled out and
placidly walked on board with 1t and so,
by mild degrees the dray was emptied and
sent back for another load. Once, by a
fitting of the dray the lock of a trunk
received some injury, when the whole six
collected for several minutes in an in
terested group, patting the lock, poking
IL WIN hhboin NM HNhhh'hB wa w
look at it, while queer old man with an
enormous beehive-shaped hat circulated
round the group, the most wildly
interested of all all chattering in French
like party of blackbirds.
Out at last on the broad st. Lawrence ;
broad and majestic, although at the lowest
point of its II feet ebb-a beautiful
panorama opened before us. Tho sloping
shores of Point Levi lay behind, dotted by
dwellings and dominated by their three
forts a light mist softened to dream-ike
blue the distant highlands, and the round
solid mass of the Isle CT Orleans before
Us the Lower Town of Quebec lay along
the shore in picturesque variety of shape
and color, and back of that the rocky
nights upon which perches the city
proper. girdied by its wall ana crowned
by its (perhsps) irpreguahle cltdsl 9
military position, tire Quebec people are
fond Of informing strangers, second ouly tc
Gibrsltsr in strength and inaeeessibility.
1t Is a tough pull mp the streets of this
second Gibralter. and animals less stronl
in limb and sound in wind than these
stout Canadian horses could not easily
accomplish it, hut. ~ they pull Willingly
and seem generally in good condition
even members of the s. P. G. A. viii
bundle into the inevitable Sightseeing
cartilage without conjunction. If tn,
sightseeing party is not more than two
the best vehicle in which to make thu
round of the city is unique affair, called
calash Of. Caleche): two very stou
wheels, upon which, mounted on grass
hopper springs" sits an odd little rouDt
4 ~, ~ ,,,Ata al
serves for seat for the driver. Tn
special good point of the calash is the cas-
with which it can bs turned, as the phras
goes, on dinuer plate; a very desirsbl
thing in thCs' narrow streets and abrup
turns
visit TO the citadel, the very reason o
Qlebec'5 being, is, of course, the FIRST ide
Of the visitor: but objects Q
interest and historical association
catch the eye at every turn O
the way thither. A most picturesque littl
cottage opposite the ST Louis hotel whic
Immediately attracts the eye to its slopn
roof aud lst,iced windows, is pointed on
as the house where Mnntcalm held his lal
council NJ war before his defeat aud dealt
Not far beyond, in the same street, is tn
humble cottage where the body G
Montgomery was prepared for burial aftt
his death in the heroic but disastrou
assault of Quebec in 11j5.
There is no trouble whatever in bein
admitted to the citadel in fact the CARR
son appear 10 welcome visitors as an agre,
able break in the mopotony of their live
and, imagine, derive no small amount {
pocket money from the tips OF those whol
they conduct on the round OF inspection
The nice, manly lad who was told off fl
our conductor was such frank-faoel
gentlemanly young fellow, his manner
though modest, we're so much those OF
social equal that ! should about as SOC
have thought of offering a quarter to Il
ed tor of the JOURNAL; but found,
! the conclusion of the round his palm gui
ready and his thank you" quite mecha
ical Viewing the imposing defense
bastiOn. wall noat and tower, all mann,
with their grim dogs of wsr-happi
sleeping now-and listening to the Carr
: lous prattle OF the young soldier, we b
came qnite British in our feelings, exultt
! IN the apparent impregusbility of Il
. position, triumphed anew with Wolfe
!, the Flains of Abraham, so closely owe
( looked by the citadel walls, and thrill
. again in sympathy vita his Then d
!, happy as the French are seen to fl
q But then came little shock of revulsio
=, And this, said the young fellow, int
eating from the King bastion the me
a steep and rugged slope Of the rocks beo
rising $50 feet above tide level "this
y half way up the slope, is where MOI
=, gomery fell The Yankees thought, v
y know they'd take ug by surprise, conf
:. ny where our defenses were the strongt
/. and So least guarded; so they came snea
~ ing up that ravine thinking to surpr
'a rs but they got the tables turned
as themselves you know his eyes brighte
:. ing at tine thought OF 1t. We went on
a d more critical mood
", The Union Jack hattering on the CHI
:, bastion denoted the PRESENCE of ,
A Governor General, who, il seems, civ
II much more time to Quebec than to dul
!, Ottawa. II the Princess, now in Eoglar
y where here too the royal flag of Engla
i would float from still higher staff, taxi
~ down the Marquis honOrs. His Exceler
Il, was just about to start for Point Levi
~ inspect the forts there, and the horses
- himself and suite were waiting in front
the Governors quarters, glossy, fl
limbed creatures. with broad, squ1rel
trimmed tails. like the horses in Pune
pictures. Visitors are not allowed
approach the quarters nsarer than fl
8, yards willis His Exceiency occupies the
lie A snobbish idea presented itself fo
~ moment of waiting Mt that respectful {
I'd lance to see the Q1ecn's son-in.lGw mt
" his appearar ea, but being by this time
m a democratic and uu British mood
t, thought Of the exceedingly wishy- was
ce ness of Guido and Lita," considered t
C. the Marquis was only a nice young n
~ with turn for writing very poor yer.
r. and passed on.
IA ''And what ia that little brass cam