Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-06-03
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Fnshiona of tha nax.

The many decided changes whic h
have appeared in the fashions this sea-
SON are chiefly in the fabrics. There
is little change in the making up of
dresses. We still have skirts perfectly
clinging in form and draped behind,
short or trained for the evening; the
combination costume in its various
forms, newest of which Is the coat
bodice different from the skirt, and the
severely plain cloth walking dress in
two or three pieces.
Undoubtedly the surtout Is the lead
ing fashion among novelties. This is
plain straight polonaise, with the skirt
open always in front nearly TO the waist,
generally at the back also, and fire.
quently on the sides as well. The ma
terials of which it is made are various,
cloth, velvet, camel's hair, brocade or
damasse while the novelty goods in
Oriental mixtures are useful surtouts
for wear with any skirt. The best are
tailor-made, and fit like rentleman's
frock-coat and are finished in the same
manner. Handsome surtouts are lined
throughout with colored silk. red or
old gold being the shades usually Sc
lected. The beauty OF the garment de-
perds almost entirely upon its perfect
fit, and great care should be taken, both
in cutting it out and sewing, to have the
threads run straight and to avoid
stretching the seams. When a tailor
cuts any garment he lays the cloth
smoothly upon long table, for which
a piano top is very good substitute,
and marks il out with chalk. Then It
is cut and basted with the greatest ex-
actness and stitched as carefully, and
this is the secret of the perfect set
which characteriZes first-class tailor
work. Many dressmakers positively
refuse to tit garments for others to sew.
you make the dress YOURSELF said
such one, "and you sew it crooked;
then you blame me-"
Much also depends on the manner in
which dress is put on. The inside belt,
which keeps the back in place and re-
lieves the seams of strain, is also of vital
importance. The best .dressmakers add
to this second inside belt, set in under
the arms, and about three inches wide,
furnished with hooks and eyes set close
together. Sleeves are made very tight,
and the wearer of a fashionable bodice
is expected to put on her bonnet before
she dons her dress waist. II would be
impossible to bend the arm in these
sleeves were it not that n slight fullness
is allowed on the under part Just at the
elbow. Sleeves for bail dresses are a
tiny puff. For afternoon wear they are
elbow long, while the favorite length
for all occasions is three-quarters, long
wristed gloves being worn with them
on the street.
The long-waisted, tight fitting jacket,
with deep basque, is a very favorite
model for spring dresses. 1t is fire.
10 x~f \
from tina skirt-velvet, brocaded silk,
Turkish cashmere, wool and silk bro
cade or any fancy material; the skirt
may be plain or striped. Ii is well to
trim the skirt with bias bands or flut-
ings, panels or scarf-draperies of the
same fabric as the bodice.
There has never been a time when il
was so easy to remodel old dresses TO
good advantage. The variety OF new
fabrics is infinite, and something may
be found TO combine with everything.
The novelty goods-by which we mean
all the army of broche and figured
goods-furnish trimming for all ma
terials and shades. These are used in
small or large quantities; whole sur
touts are simply as vests, pipings, coll
lar and cuffs. Last years buntings are re-
made, with bands of the novelty goods
for trimmings, ana old silk or cashmere
dresses are turned into the skirt, n sur
tout of novelty goods being worn with
them. Striped silks, which are slightly
passe, are combined with satins to
match the pervadiDg tint in the silk. A
pretty model has a coat basque of satin,
the front Of the skirt of shirred silk, 4,
with side cores of satin, while the back
bresdths are of silk and the foot trim
ming is silk plated flounce, headed
with satin. Another. where more silk
was available, had the bodice of silk,
with long revers collar and cuffs of
satin. Long narrow panels of satin were
set on each side of the front breadth and
vandyked band of satin headed box
plated founce of silk on the skirt.
Some of the new washing materials,
so-called, are very handsome. Such are
the Scotch zephyr cloths, figured
mummy cloths. the Grape finished Yeddo
goods and the oil calicoes, which last
are made up in combination with fine
wOolens.
The imported gingham suits are the
prettiest Of all wash dresses. A gay
fancy is that of trimming light blue and
white checked gingham with bands and
pointed tongues of dark claretcolored
gingham. Such dress is further deco
rated by a cluster of hand-paiDted flow
ers In the point of the neckerchief, which
is tied sailor fashion. Something UNIQUE
In the color and in the combinations is
aimed at in these pretty cottons. Thus
one OF heliotrope purple has pale cream
colored farings, while another OF claret
red has plaitings of chintz figures on q
white ground, very much like the fa-
vorite patterns Of foulard.
Madras ginghams are sold In quanti-
ties. The trimmings are coarse torchon
or Russian lace or Hamburg edges, and
n favorite method Of making them Is
with round skirt, with dounce at the
bottom, or draped overskirt and a Jacket
bodice.
In dark colored percales also . draped
skirt is worn over a short skirt, with n
bodice gathered round the waist and
finished by plated basque.
Coat basques are very fashionable. 60
also Is the skirted or marquise BASQUE,
which has the skirt set on q little below