Delaware state journal. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1870-1883, 1880-10-07

New YoIk,s Newest StyIes-Exquisite
Designs inlet Trimmings for Co.'S
tIines-GrOtesque Hutton Designs.

New HoIk,s Newest StyIes-Exquistfe
Designs Inlet Trimmings for Co.'S
TUNES Hutton Designs.
Special Correspondence of State Journal
New York, Sept. 27.-"Its the season.
ing as does it"-Sam Weller. The jet
trimmings upon costume, recently worn
10y Mrs. A 4. Stewart, cost 500 Both
quantity and quality were there but it was
exquisite tineness and beauty of design
that were chiefly noticeable apron fronts
of let are shown for $3.50 and we may
easily deiuce from these facts that jet is
very fashionable. Fringes, entirely OF jet
or heavily intermingied herewith, are
seen, running in width through all grada-
tons to three quarters of yard; the last
mentioned, however. being really apron
fronts. Passementeries in the higher types
exhibit rare artistic skill. Here we |
see floral designs chiefly sought
for, and many are wrought in |
such way that the flowers or leaves can,
upon occasion, be taken apart and sewed |
on singly. Passementerie frogs are in
great demand and simulate butterflies,
coruucopias, &c, as well as flowers. Pas
sementerie medallons are quite feature |
in trimmings yet scarce, perhaps, more 40
so successful style of ornament III dress.
All are often connected by cords which are
very popular trimming. The inevitable
black silk eau be metamorphosed into a
handsome evening costume by means of
Jet trimmings. Laid on colored silk and
attached to the dress by a fine needle and
thread with long stitches on til, wrong
side, they can afterwards be taken of, aud
Obi MI, mil nj hot kt,tt, IVA
as important as ever. Pearl and metal
are most employed, the former ranging
in all shades from pale tinted to such as
are deep smoke dyed, and the latter dis.
playing great variety in coloring and
device. Choice il given among floral pat.
terms carvings of heads, or all manner of
birds and beasts, some of which are anus
ingly grotesqne, as for example where
monkey shaves before mirror, nc. She'll
shaped buttons are new, and i'll delicate
sea-green hues, display carvings of water
fowl and aquatic plants. Yet, not in
device alone are buttons remarkable, but
in size; for, at times they are very large,
especially on street costumes, where the
dimensions of trade dollar are not con-
sidered too pronounced. Trimmings of
material are made in much the same styles
as have prevailed, and here the changes
are rung on knife, box, and kilt plating,
ruching, gau2ing ard shirring. Box plaits
are very narrow; kilt plsits are wide, and
knife plaits are either plain or in shell
designs For thick flannel or cloth cos
tunes machine stitching is popular.
Among novelties iuaugurated by the fall
season, Jerseys" are the most remarka-
BILE. They are woven garments fitting
close to the figure, reaching to the hips
and brought out in heavy silk or wool and
dyed i'll all fashionable colors, garnet, dark
blue, red, DC; will take the place of
basques. Coming high around the throat
they are finished with ribbing at the neck
and rubbing appears also at the end of the
long sleeves that are intended to look HI if
moulded to the arm. In fact the whole
| garment Is meant 10 fit like WAX" and
there never WAS as great al opportunity
for showing off fine figure The ques-
ton arises rs to whether the Jersey will
be adopted by our best classes This is
predetermined rs yet, but its existence
establishes the fact that costumes close
around the hips will remain popular while
rs we all know, such as are gathered full
about the waist are likewise very stylish
| OF course, between these two opposite
| tAtittLth, we uhNt hi manner OF vary ing
ideas and notifications aud in CONSEQUENCE
corresponding liberty. Then, too, we
see polonalses, hasques, overskirts
trimmed skirts and hanging, un.
trimmed skirts all worn; 30 really there is
scarcely limit AS TO choice. The v!oletta
costume is a long tight fitting polonaise,
reaching to the bottom of the skirt at the
sides and looped high in the ,niddle Of the
.uIv. Il ~ A.
skirt plain in front and at the sides
and plated full ut the back The
Castiii overskirt is arranged with double
apron draped in the middle AID falling In
two points, producing the effect of
paniers aud the back draped in simple
and grace full manner. Suitable for all
classes of dress goods, but especially for
cloth, it could be tastefully combined with
the Lola basque. Trains are at dis
count. They are worn, but only some
times, for even in full dress We oftener
observe demi-trsins or short dresses. The
last mentioned look youthful; give chances
for the better showing of pretty shoe
aud stocking, to say nothing of superior
convenience, so We cannot wonder they
are in favor
The success of Breton and LanRuf doc
iacSb uhS tISpuTHRtu InhUuIdClurcrS TO
send us new impOrtatlons, Some ars en-
tirely novel; others, reproductions in new
patterns. | wish | could hde quste,y d1 =
scribe them to yor, for lace il now Nh im
portant part of woman's dress. Yet sm
puzzled now to do this with pen and ink,
and since touching on this topic /, has
occurred to me where you can see the
best of them for yourselves. A COPY of
| A IN oil a
there, with delicate accuracy, they are
illustrated. The white laces, not a few,
ready made up in fashionable 'k-rchiefs,
i4bots, NC, are daintiIy portrayed on dark
surfaces, looking so real that
you fancy you could handle
them. Send postal, asking for
a catalogue, and you Will sse uot only the
aces but the latest ways of making them
up. Besides, too, You will get idens on
so many points that / would gladly touch,
but cannot in the compass that is assigned
me. For in confidence will confess that
sometimes in Whiting, | feel like the
preacher who, having discuursed on one
| Christian grace, finds 20 many Others
. about which nothing has been said aud il
can refer you to H guido lSays u, hand,
4 my conscience is so much the clearer,
especially as you are put to no expense
] We have dOlmaus and dolmans The
e idea is repeated over aud over again anG
0 permestes to a greater or less degree
. almost the entire world OF outside gar.
D ments But the little word almost
/. means something, for you see by it tina
o there are such things as jackets and clos,
c4saques. In a minority it i'd true, ye
not wiped out of existence. The dolma,
of the day, however, fits as closely as i
o it were a jacket; the large sleeves clingini
10 to the figure and having non
:; OF that spreading out effect Fl
d Objectionable in former times
>, There is an elegance in dolma,
g which is not possible to jacket, and no,
IL that the symmetry of the garment is NOR
% looked after than formerly, we can imagin
70 nothing handsomer or more general
IN becoming. The most stylish are Gale
lie visites and model well worthy OF recon
le mendstion is the 2arah. The Langtr
ID casaque is nearly tight-fitting with hoo
at reaching to the waist, slightly doubl,
r. breasted and suitable for all qualities {
Id cloth and many kinds of material. Th
X hood can be lined with the same goods {
ne tho tarp,a,t mr. nnntraofipn