The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-05-19
Harper's Bazaar.
Gentlemen'S Fashions.


last season, and all coats for day wear button
high; the rough cloths used for business suits
are worn higher than the finer goods of semi
dress coats. Vests also button high to match
the coat, showing only the scarf about the
throat, and concealing the shirt 'front.' All
| trousers are worn narrower.
Semi-dress suits have the double-breasted
Prince Albert coat made of black or blue cloth
in diagonal or else corkscrew patterns; this is
| for church and for general wear, though young
| gentlem IN prefer the single-breasted coat.
Morning coats with flaps and pockets are also
| made of these cloths. The vest is OF the same
material, and buttons high, with or without
collar, according to fancy; the binding is of
moderate width. The trousers are closer, and
have hair lines or narrow stripes of medium
i colors.
| Business and travelling suits are made of
Scotch Cheviots in plaids, stripes, or mixtures
of quaint colors. The entire suit is of one kind
of material. The coat is either a single-breasted
| sack to button three or four buttons, or else
| the regular English jacket with flaps and pock-
| cts. The vest buttons very high, and the trou-
| sers are narrow.
Dress coats are not changed in shape, but are
| worn shorter than last year. They are made as
the vest of the same fine black cloth is cut low,
| like the coat. to button three buttons White
vests are not worn with full-dress swallow. tail
| coats, but are worn in the summer with
| the Prince Albert frock- coats as part of semi
dress suits White vests are usually double
breasted.
Spring overcoats are single-breasted sacks
made of dark brown or olive Melton, and are
| faced with silk on the edges.
Gentlemen's shirt.fronts are made of three
| thicknnSSaS of linpn laid narfpcflv
without tucks. Some have corded edges, but
plain edges. are most used. There are but two
eyelets for studs, instead of three formerly re-
quired when vests were cut lower. Full dress
shirts are also as plain as possible entirely
without embroidery, and these have but one
eyelet, for jewelled stud as very little Jewell
ry is worn by men Of taste. The cat's-eye da-
mond is fashionable for the single stud. When
two or three studs are preferred, they are Of
white enamel on gold, made to resemble linen
buttons, or else they are of yellow gold and
very small. The sleeve-buttons of plain or
hammered gold are worn linked so that the
cuffs merely meet at the edges, and the cuffs
are square cornered and straight. New collars
stand perfectly straight all around without
tiaring, and meet close at the throat. Turned
down collars are not very deeply pointed, and
have an inch and half open space in front.
Neglige shirts for travelling and morning wear
are of the finest French cambrics in bird s-egg
blue shades with white polka dots, or else
white grounds with stripes, bars dots and jap
anese figures in colors. The Madras cloths and
Scotch ginghams are also used for these Shirts
The Punjaub scarf, folded fatty at the throat
to I'LL the space not covered by the high vest is
made OF washing goods, in one piece that can
be laundried without injuring the shape. 1t
is excellent when made or linen duck or of
pique in solid colors, or with dots, stripes or
Japanese figures on white or cream ground.
Rivalling this for summer use are neat ties of
Scotch gingham, folded in four folds an inch
wide when finished; these pass around the
neck and are tied by the wearer in a small
flat bow, just as full-dress white ties are worn.
The designs are the smallest bars and hair
stripes, with a tiny border of color at each end,
and either straight or fringed ends. The birds
egg blue French cambrics with white polka
dots are made in similar ties. Satin ties, both
black and white, are made in the same way,
and sometimes lines of color are added at the
ends, though all black or white is in best taste.
The narrow black satin is used for dinners;
white satin and white lawn ties are used for
full dress receptions. The Claudent scarf, of
the popular shape that is rounded at the throat
is made up this season in the twilled Surah
silks in checks or in plain colors Windsor ties
which are wide, bias scarfs to be tied by the
wearer, are especially popular in navy blue
foulard dotted with white; these cost 81. .25.
Surah silk of all dark, rich shades is made up
in the Windsor scarfs, and this shape is pre-
ferred for grenadine scarfs by gentlemen who
can tie cravat bow easily. For those who
cannot, new scarf, with the suggestive name
of "96 in the shade,' commends itself, as it is
easily adjusted and very light and cool when
| made of grenadine or Surah.
White linen handkerchiefs for dress occa-
sions have narrow hens not half an inch wide,
hemstiched, and otherwise very plain. Those for
general use have wide hens of robin 's-egg blue,
or red, with polka dots; sometimes the centre
is dotted also, and sometimes the whole hand
kerchief is of this grayish-blue. Silk pocket
handkerchiefs of Surah, or else printed foul
ard, now have similar hens, instead of
striped woven border. Colored hosiery is
more used than white or ecru, and is chosen in
marrow stripes around the leg, or else in solid
| colors embroidered on the instep or merely
clocked on the sides. The English and French
hosiery is far preferable to the German. Bal
briggan and lisle-thread socks are chosen for
day wear, but silk socks, especially black silk,
are used with low shoes and for full dress.
There is no change in the shape of the but
toned CATERS that gentlemen wear on the
street. They are made of calf-skin Of light
weight, with round toes and low square heels.
English soles are worn with these, and the
shoe is Of symmetrical shape, without being
tight, as the best-dressed men do not want
their shoes to appear small. Patent-leather
shoes with cloth tops are worn for dress, and
also at the seaside, as the glazed leather does
not crack when worn in damp air, and calf
skin will not hold its polish when exposed to
dampness. Morocco slippers are worn in the
house, with colored socks.
The dress hat for Spring is the black silk hat
d
deep, and very narrow brim with well-rolled
D'Orsay curl. These are so youthful-looking
that old gentlemen have their hats made to or
der with broader brims. The Summer dress
hat will be of the same shape, but of silver
pearl color, and made over willow body that
makes it very light and COOL So is the price.
For business hats are very low round-crowned
Derby shapes, with the narrow brims described
for dress hats. They are of black felt, or of
neutral, and mixed colors for the present sea-
and Of naarl-Oray for MiIsuuunar. thay
cost $3.50. The most fashionable straw hat
will be the Mackinaw, which is very soft yet
rough-looking with stiff straight brim the
price is $3.50 to So. The English Dunstable
Soft felt hats in medium colors are shown in
light weights suitable for travelling hats.
The heavy Chevrette kid glove, made in
English fashion, with three broad rows of
stitching or embroidery on the back, and fas-
tened by two buttons, is the fashionable choice
for gentlemen. Lighter qualities of kid are al
so made up in the same way. Tan-colors with
| medium drab shades, also lemon colors, are
most liked; the wide embroidery is usually self
| color, but tan stitched with black is very sty-
| lish. Coaching gloves are of heavy skins, and
| show the raw edges in the seams; they have al
| so heavy welted backs. Driving gloves are
| lisle-thread on the back and kid inside. A
novelty is pointed lisle-thread gloves with dots
or diamond figures all over the hand; they are
finished with two rubber springs at the wrists.
They are of gray, olive, or old-gold-coloT, with
wide stitching on the back.
Gentlemen's driving coats are made of Pan
anna cloth in English sackSshapes as long as an
Ulster, and are of gray, drab, and dust colors.
| They cost SIS. Ecru pongee and gray mohair
| are also used for these coats.
English waterproof coats have the outside
| like Scotch Cheviots in light dark brown
| checks, and plaids of tan and snuff colors.
| These cost $50 each.
New canes are bamboo sticks with the knob
top of hammered silver. Buck-horn handles in
hooked shapes are also popular for canes. Eng
lish umbrellas with sticks of highly polished
pimento wood are used by gentlemen.
The New Bishops.