New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-11-29
OLD SPANISH MONTERREY.

4 TOWN THAT HAS SLEPT FOR CENTURY.
SINGULAR FEArURrs or THE EARLY cAPrr'L or
CAIFOHNiA-ITs Low ADOBE HOUSES. CROOKED
STREETS AvD IDLE PEuPLE-ONE or THE
wRrCK- OF THE GOLD FEvrR.
IRON AZ Occasional CORRESPONDENT OF THE rmBUNE.l
san FRANCrsco. Nov. 12-Perhaps there are not
half a dozen cities in this country which have PRE-
served the Old Spanish atmosphere OF dlenihed
idleness, pride OF ignorance and scorn of modern
Improvement IN equal measure with the sleepy
town of Monterey. IL is only hundred miles
from busy. bustIing san Francisco. but whole
continent OF race differences and preiudices scpa-
rates from the capital Of the Pacific coast 1t s
only twenty miles away from Santa Cruz but 1t
has nothing IN common with this new iavorite of
fashion, Energetic men have tried 10 mOdcrulze
the place during the Last year by building large
hotel near ut hand. but the force of inertia has
been too much for them. The hotel stands apart
il no more belongs To- thc place than does the snort
ing engine which goes putting IN and out twice a
day. 10 seems like farce 10 suppose that this
antique Spanish town To lit Is ndolrnt eyes
10 tie stranger IL is -elldcpendent like tine forces
OF nature: il is stubborn piece of antiquity which
Improvement beats upon "a, the waves beat upon
the shore OF its beautiful bay.
Modern Monterey bcyus with the new hotel and
ends with the lighthouses and the railroad depot
After you cross tine narrow strip OF sand beyond
the station there is no auachGonism 10 disturb the
historical pIopreues. The town rs scattered over
the hillside. facing the east and looks ont upon
bav whose shor, Inc forms perfect crescent. whose
waters are as blue ana lustrous ms those of which
Homer sang. while the cioujic,s heavens above
couplet. the rhythm of sea- and -Ay.' 4 fringe
Of foam marks tine point where She gIi,cuin- sand
ends and the indigo wafer begins. Two wharvcs
break the placid surfac. OF the bav. but they are
deserted Commerce cousofts not with the place.
Industry Is upied only in the small boats Of tine
Chinese fishermen d.mly seen in tine distance.
ANCIENT AuoB HOUSES.
Turning ones back ON the bay and passing ZIP
the main street of the town. it is seen that nine
tcnths of the houses are adobe pron "Uuccd with
three svllahes. with two low stor''- ul "a long,
.lopine root. The walls are thick AND massive as
tbo,, of % fortress: the windows have deep lodges.
heavy ,ashes mad sm.u, paues the doors are bat
tened and studded with huge nails: the ratters
project from four to rI1ht iect over the front and
form = natural covering for the spacious vcranda
which surrounds the house; the chambers on the
second ioor open upon this vcranda. access 10
which is gained ohly 1y outside stairs Chimncys
,Iso me exterior app.udagrs us I'D tine Southern
couutry Tie r01l D.. covered With dull rod eartheD
tiles. each scmI-criindcr folded one upon the
other and loollu. at q little distance exactly Ike
rows of rusty iron pipe. Partitions are built OF
adobe "A foot thick. Inside. the house IS delight
fully cool in summer and dislgrccaDlN damp N
winter The lew houses of wealthy Spanish
families have floors of hard wood. beautifully
waxed and polished. The novels of Indians AMI
balf-brccls have natures floor of w"l-packed
earth. CABIN and maus' are Wmtc"a,hed alike,
only tLe latter mas IT,. rough adobe walls hlddru
from SIGHT hy o. coat of pdet ring Around most OF
fine houses are gar lens luriOS'U nv adobe Wills
whose height is increased nJ several LAYERS "l sou.
These walls show clearly the nature OF iir sun
dried adobe. It's worn surface Is ullra with thr
stubblv points OF wheat aud grass stalks Tor Jhr
adobe ia tine brick WIN winch the captive hIldf'h
All I.rac wr,stIed. After seeing these modern -prcl-
mems Won yet CLEARER dc3 of the dcyINsh lnee-
r"'r+ nt ro- tuast,rs " no compelled them to make
brick. without straw phrase which rs meaning
less until YOU have seen well worn adobe.
GARuE>~ or ROSES AND HDLLYH 'CKs.
4 lew fruit trees anguish in thcse gardens. The
melancholy cypr.ss-thc iayOrItc shade tree Of
tine town dourislcs iu the shadow OF ruin, lts vivid
green contrasting strongly with the tanned tint Of
other vegetation. Everywhere the rose and the
h,llvbock blossom side by sidc-a singular anti
thesis of the tawdry and the elegant in nature
Roses bloom winter and summer. and 1--we to ripe
old age In one secluded garden IS usty rose-tree
with a stem rs thick az a mans leg. and with
branches which corer a large green house. The
hoiirli0ck gives "A pleasant dash or cuior To the
long gray adobe walls and perhaps expresses The
mai .fl
houSfs on the hiIl. They could grow loses Wlth
lin. same trouble hut thcir taste IN ornament seems
10 have only reached the hoyhock stage Of eyo-
luton. Traces Of tn whaling industry. TOT when
tb. town was once noted. are seen on every hand.
The galKs in front Of MANY houses, the approach
Ia the ugly little Catholic church, the borders OIL
dover beds--all are formed OF the rouhd central
bone in the vcrtebra OF the whale. lou NAV also
come upOn youngsters IN the street playing morse.
and the wagon useu Il one OF lhe up-nphes on
whale. blcached 10 the whltencss oil ivory by long
exposure.
STREET LIFE AND INCIDENTS.
The sun beats down ptilessly upon the wide
dusty street Ii WAS macadamlzed sometime IN the
last century. and 1t Is simply bed of dust which
every horse strs into clouds and distributes upon
the passers-by. There are no sidewalks. save III
few blocks on the main street. Elsewhere carthen
walks scarcely less dusty than the street serve for
the few foot passengers and are separated from the
road nv deep eullirs. which in the brief rainy
season are turned into brawiing torrents. Streets
meet At all angles. and mcandcr over the side hill
seemingly At random. They are sacred To cows
dogs DIGS. and gerse The rominohcSt street scene
IN Monterey rs "A half-brced urchm, mounted bare
hack on a broucho. dasnIug along IN hot pursuit ot
n stray bull calf 10 is the nearest approach 10 NE
and animation that tie pac permits The streets
and stores wear look of perennial sunday quirt
and dulness Business As TRANSACTED IN % ltl7ulry
yyov that calls for no eXcrilon ana No noise. Ih'
main occupation of the residents scrn- to p' 70
drink whiskcy and 10 LOAF and I"' itr lhr SOUL
The Infusion of American blood INTO tin ti"'nt
does not appear To have any effect IL Ia, been
absorbed aud Mcxicanized. No man could icai'i
for any length of time the seductive aziucss "t me
| rl,rr 4 lew DAYS d-moralizes one; bali year
! would end in complete relaxation OF the moral
/ fibre.
| And vet the old town once had It's hrIrf hryd1y
/ ot nros1erlty Standing by the cross planted near
one of the melancholy wIaryes YOU may look 'dc "a
! i'm fancy upon that June day 10 100 When IIdIr
Iruircro Sierra erected and blessed a cross un ms
spot and the five priests and thrtf STOUT spanish
/ froopers chautcd "a mass and sans IT, Denim. ON
1 rrrtIs
| h,.,1,r thr rapltal of Alta California. and unuer
various Governors il passed down io llle time when
! thr Iulted states seized upon D.. IErn began q
nv, I for thr old city. In SIG 10 Wa The head
| nu,rters for Commodore SloatS iugaie. the ~aNan-
! NAH and "a garrison of 30 men WI, rstduh-h,d IN
fhe N,xIrau fort Iho-, were lively days Tor Mon