New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-01-04


Ii was amusing enough 10 witch the gait Of all
these fair apostles of new creed in dress. They
moved about With gliding step; when they sat
down they assumed poses whose stiffness suggested
that thus they had sat for a hundred years, aud
thus they meant TO SIS for another century In tho
expression and bearing OF all these women was a
lack OF abandon and freshness; there q self
consciousness and a melancholy. After n while
however, | began to note that there some
charming figures present that lowered on the or
derland OF gsthcticism in dress, who had very pref.
tily adapted its pecullarities to something Of the
fashion of the day. The result was a pleasant in
dIyiduahty of costume. ! noticed also delightful
gements in col0r--symphonies II the proper
aesthetic word-One TINT passing through all iis
shades or moduatiOns as we see II pass in flowers;
violent contrasts subtly harmonzed by the mass
ing and arrangement OF the dlscordant hues.
was on q visit with some aesthetic cousins. and
had been initiated into the dogma that dress should
he 90 the body what speech is 10 the mind. there
fore had watched the scene with something of the
interest of a neophyte. We were home now, and,
while we toasted Ouf toes before the fire. we dis
cussod the evening. My cousin Lucy IN early girl
hood had been considered the plain one Of the elan;
but on my return nom the Continent found that
she had acquired certain slyle-an odd, not no
pleasing picturesqueBess. The pre-Raphaelite gqrb
She had adOp ed suited her; the dim rich cOOTng
trailing skirts. high rucbe, and pulled sleeves
brought ont something queer aud uncommon IN her
appearance. Tonight she was enthusiastic IN her
admiration of the beautiful Mrs H.. the lady of the
yellow nODdescnpt garment. Cousin John followed
Srcnlar sonorns draw Her dress =" was S he idSai
of what dress should be; its color, the tall OF its
folds. were like her gestures and attitudes-sOund.
less words, set to the music OF herself"
Are not her attitudes little affected THAT
crouch, for instance II ! timIdly suggested.
She reminded me qne9mmonly OF panther IN
Phlistine youth. Johns bosom friend.
was the only who laughed at this hippant
smile; Lucy looked coldy on the Japanese screen
she held
"Then why will she frizz and pull ont her hair
ill II sticks out like the edge OF matched roof
over her forehead ~ continued Mr. Browne.
My dear Browne, you know nothing Of the SUBJ
ject," SAID John, with indugent superiority. Mrs.
r. has studied dress IN reference TO herself She ha,
mastered il as IN art. She knows the value Of that
wild HAIR. IL Is ia harmony with that grand, mas
sye chm Of hers. IL deepens her splendid satrags
appearance-if You like, her panther-like look. |
always think Of Medea when see her. IL only
continued John, pathetically. ali women under
stood dress Mrs. liz does, we should have no PLAIN
women There ought TO oe no plain women. Every
age has its grace Its dignity If it be only seized
WHAT asked laughing. edo you mean that
a girl should stand before her lO0king-glass aud
study the capabilities of her face and figure, and
looks p ''''''''' - Wv ~ ''''
a Certainly" emphatically replied my cousin.
" To make herself a. beautiful as she can be Is a
womans duty, aud she should bring her Intelligence
TO bear upon the subject. She ought 10 study her
appearance. aud then deliberately and boldly adopt
the stye OF dress that will bring out what
or lOyeness she has If this were done, should
have quaint. graceful, dRnIted ana beautiful
women, but not an ugly or an insignificant Que. As
TOT fashion, IL rum Oh ART III uItSo. hdi 10
be The slave of each caprice born of drcssm lkeIs
bTain One year every line OF wOnan's figure
hidden in hoops or distorted By hideOus protruber-
anceS-anOther, her limbs bound 50 tight that she
loses all grace aud freedom of movement
"JODn Is rIglt" said Lucy. " Fashion - a mis-
take; at least it Is so for the plain ones OF this
world. Their only chance Is To be individual IN
their style of dress was fright when ! pinned
ms faith on my drcssmakers. One day bad the
strength of mind to lay aside my chIgnon, which
made my head twice too big. My forehead Is like
the dome OF st. Pauls my shoulders like those
of a champagne bottle. yciled my br0ws with
fringe Of har. make you present OF the informa-
ton; my looks depend upon the night use oi
couple of haT-pins. ornamented my shoulders
win pulls; had my thin throat behind ruche. In
Il day of paniers and bustles adJured then. i left
OIL superiluOus draperIes; adopted trailing pam
skirts thereby giving 10Y short stature the Deneht
Of flowing lines forswOre every color that was
not Of soft and neutral unt and now am enjoy
ing my little day aud hold my own. even when
pretty women in the room. At any rate, have
a clear conscience. may say; | have made the
most Of the small share of looks Providence has
endowed ne with"
" You must have mOunful moments, Miss Lucy.
contemplating the bungle some of YOUR acqualnt-
anCe5 make Ot theirs" SAID Sir browne, ChteIliy,
looking down upon her.
"Mournfull Savage it would be more correct to
say replied Lncy, who albeit an esthetc damsel.
was yet OF a high spirit. Now there Is poor susan.
She spends more Oh her dress IN mouth than |
think do IN year She adopts every change of tho
fashion She Is pretty enough. Of soft sentimental
beauty; she has nice golden bair aud pink and
white complexion, and gentle blue eyes. that look
something like those OF a dreaming lamb. Well, be-
II the fashion. she wears waIscoats, uslers
wide-awake hats, snort skirts. The consequence Is
she mcann gess unit of a multitude, and her
innocent face out of all harmony with billycOcS
hat. Now, II had my way. would dress her al
ways Ia Vatican, IN tender cOOrs and long. some
vi at loose garments, with asacque behind; lwOuld
gather mp all her har aUd knot the top of her
head. she would then have distinct type. aud 1t
would Ice pleasant TO look az herr
Then. there is Miss Matthews said John, with
a groan Yes" quoth Lncy; Imagine bright,
eyed woman; with tuIned-up nose ana a broad
face and head; distinctly irregular countenance.
vet with plenty OF sparkle Iii n. one That suggests
something of the gyDsy; the figure not good short
aud rat her squat: she lust the that ought
20 be dressed IN closentting dark dress with per-
hapS a rlch bit of color introduced here and there.
Her hair should be arranged loosely, 10 make hne
bac gUADd To her face; instead OF which. lt rs all
brushed back tIght and gathered into conven-
tonal knot. displaying TO their fullest the wide ex
panse of cheek and jaw. Then the short figure Is
made shorter and squdtier by the tris and nOunceS
that cover the skirt. But the bad taste of these
young women does not make me luse my temper "a
does that of Mss Robarts; hers is simply the ruin
"Maguihcentl' exclaimed Mr. Browne: why.
she has flaming red haIr, aud not feature in her
face but Der eyes. and one of these has slight
squnt'
That is nothing" said Lucy. 1.-THE old masters
were rather fond of slight squmts-lt gives puz-
ziIng expression To a face"
WHY, Lucy" | interrupted, laughing, all my
notions Of beauty are getting shock. Red hair
and IA Squnt beautlfuiV
Miss ROberts's squint Is only the suspicion of
one just like that you see IN some pictures. her
eyes are simply grand, and her hair makes you
think of all the Venetian pictures you ever saw-lt
is coppeIy red. As she goes about dressed she -
now. she is plain woman n had her eyes ana
HAIR / would be the most splendid woman ~ Eng
land. There Is not color that girl could not wearI
every shade of green and crimson would haImOnne
aud contrast Superby with such haiT. She cannot
spend much on dress; so, instead of buying a few
good things, she buys fllmsy stuts, aud those nSuai-
IL eOloTieSS or chilly bright. Imagine! she had a
white bonnet OH the other day! never look at her
but | want To dress her IN "A waTm-tmted gowh'
made with ample folds of rich material. Thee
should be something stately aud quiet IN her dieS'.
Her shoulders too hign Tor puffs, but she nighI
wear PLAIN or wide open sleeves. Ii had tho
chance | would make her look like wa KING
Titan"
80 she ought TO be; aud should all women DO
pictures in the flesh" said John. 1T Is conNel,,