The Portland daily press., 1880-07-29

eSAp" VIC Wdlol lS u WitlC DOW Vi Sdlln FlU-
bon in two dropping loops closely strapped To-
| gether; when bow is added on each sleeve,
it matches that worn at the throat and is now
placed OH the inside seam on the top OF the
arm rather than the outer seam. as was
formerly done. 0f f+.-
Still another bit of coquetry in the toilette
brought about by the introduction Of jersey
waists, is that of lacing part of the corsage in
front. To do this separate piece Is inserted
in each of the front darts the whole length of
the dart its outer edge is stiffened by whale
bones, and eyelets are worked beside the bones
through which this extra piece is laced aercss
the 'front.', often crushing down the rich EN-
brolderies and laces that pass down the front
of the waist proper. This is much used on the
foulard dresses that are not injured by the
dampnesS at the seaside.
Black wool dresses worn at the seaside are
frightened by the quaint Japanese sashes that
are made of white and cream-colored stuifs
richly wrought on the ends with pale blue
green, red and threads of gold or silver. These
are passed aro1hd the waist instead of belt.
and are tied in long-looped bow ON the left
side, with the broad short ends of the embroid-
cry fully displayed.
A scarf of white nuns yelling is a fayorite
trimming for the rough straw hats worn at the
seaside. This scarf is wide, and loosely folded
encircling the crown without hanging ends.
A dagger, fork, or gilded hoe or rake is
thrust through the scarf
OTHER MIDSUMMER DRESSES.
The shirred waist is one of the quaint novel
ties of the summer for wash dresses, and is
considered far more stylish than the plainly
gathered waist worn with belt; it is also more
becoming than pleated waists to slight figures
This waist is as long as basque, covering the
hips, and being of even length all around. The
full front is shirred ON the shoulders a short
distance from where it is ssewed to the collar,
while the back is smooth and plain OH the
shoulders. At the waist line both in front and
back is cluster of shirring five or six inches
deep, and slightly broader at the top and bot
tom than at the smallest part which is about
the middle; thus there are five or six inches
OF breadth at the top of the shirring, and only
four inches in the middle. A regular side
form is set in the back, but the front is all in
one piece, and is shaped by the sloping seam
under the arm The shirring is held in place
by shaped piece, to which each row is closely
sewed. There is no outside belt to this basque,
as belt would partly conceal the shirring;
on each side at the waist line, extend
ing along the plain space between the
clusters of shirring. This band is very wide
and is usually made of two pieces of edging
sewed together on the straight edges. The
open English needle-work, or else Hamburg
embroidery in gulpure patterns, is used for
this purpose. A pink Chambery or French
gingham dress is very pretty made with this
shirred basque, without lining, and trimmed
with open embroidery in Greek squares. \
small fichu pointed in the back and not larger
than pocket handkerchief folded iagonaily,
trims the neck it is simply hemmed and bor-
deerd with white edging or embroidery; when
put on 1t is tied i'll front, close to the throat,
and Is worn with high standing linen collar.
Sometimes regular sailor collar is made with
such waists, while others have merely the
turned-over Byron collar. A row of embroid-
cry edges the basque, and the front is fastened
by small bullet-shaped pearl buttons sewed
on through eyes in the centre. The sleeves
are nearly close-ftted on the lower part of the
arm, but are slightly full at the armhole SO
that they stand out like gentleman's coat
sleeve. Small gathered ruffles trim the short
skirt OF Chambery dress. Sometimes there
are three narrow ruffies. each edged with
Breton lace of the same width as the rufiie
while fourth ruffle at the foot, is entirely of
the Chambery, without lace. In other cases
there are alternate plain ruffies and lace
trimmed ones. There is bouffant overskirt
il the wearer is slight, but merely an apron or
a trimmed front with straight back breadths il
the dress is to be worn by full figure.
Tee round shirred waist which does not ex-
tend below the waist line is greatly in favor
for light summer silk dresses, and is perhaps
more dressy than that just described, which
extends below w,the waist like basque. 1t will
be used for the pretty wool dresses of the au-
tumn and Is likely to continue in favor, as it
has the quaint, antique look that it now so
fashionable. 1t is made over a fitted round
lining, and is widely shirred above the vast
line, and is worn with belt of ribbon ON the
side. 1t gives an appearance of roundness to
figures that are too slender yet need not be
made too full to be becoming to those who are
quite feshy.
Next to these dresses in popular favor, and
more easily made, are the simple blouse waists
formerly called "infant waists" Instead of
gathering these waists to a belt to which the
skirt is attached, it is better to make the waist
separate from the skirt and long enough to ex-
tend three or four inches below the waist; this
length below the belt is then worn under the
skirt being tucked away ont of sight. A mar.
row belt is then put underneath the waist. and
the fullness in back and front is sewed upon it
in two or three rows of shirring; the belt with
its edges turned under neatly, is then stitched
by machine along the entire waist line To
strengthen these dresses that are made with
out lining, a shaped pirce of linen Hsome-
times set in with the armhole and under arm
seams, but in very transparent materials this
spoils the effect and partly conceals the
trimmed under-waist with which it is worn:
for this reason many modistes omit those fac
ings, and make the waist large and loose on
the sides where the strain of the farms comes.
AS most lawns and ginghams shrink when
washed, it is best to make such dresses quite
large and roomy, besides, neglige appearance
of the blouse waist, with easy loose tit, is con-
sidered more stylish than if prim and closely
fitted. The shoulder seams alone are made
close and it is necessary that these seams be
very short and directly in line of the shoulders
instead of toward the back, as they were for
merly placed. When the skirt has simple
apron without any draperv IN the back, but
merely straight flowing breadths, the apron is
permanently attached to the belt, which is put
on after the blouse-waist and is buttoned or
hooked in the back An outside belt ribbon
or sash of satin ribbon or Surah tied on the
left side completes the toilette. When making
these dresses of very thin lawn, null muslin,
or organdy, the seams on the shoulders and
under the arms should not be left "raw," that
is, with rough edges that show through to the
outside; they should first be closed in what is
called the English bag seam, made by stitch
ing it first with the roughsedges outward on tho
right side, then turning the garment. and by
seam on the wrong side inclosing the edges
and concealing them. The armholes of wash
dresses should always be corded, as they need
the cord for strengthening the thin fabric.
Ladies with thin figures continue to wear high
under-waists beneath their dresses but there is
tendency to restore the low waists and low
dress Innings that have been abandoned so
long. Transparent lace sleeves are fashiona-
BILE on silk dresses, though it is not yet the
custom to cut grenadine waists with low
necked lininos