New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-01-26
COUNT MOLTKE'S TRAVELS.

A BULL FIGHT ON QUEEN ISABELLA ""D
DING DAY-lMPKEssIoNs AND OPINIONS OF Ma
PIFox III. AND HIS POWER IN FkANCE-sAXA
RUDRA
The pOint of the remark that Count Moltke
Is silent languages might almost be apphed 10
his written as well as TO his spoken words lie mas
published Ile and that little late 10 life. history
OF the recent with France was issued In 1873 IN"
following years, and he hoped to write ana eo' ae-
counts OF the wars 1859 and 1866 Letters which nc
wrote Constantipople in ls3j'39 were pfh'eu III
German the time, but not In English until recently
while q ira lnton of private letters written from
Russia at 3 iater te'iod was made year or TWO
since by Mss Grac} Bigeiow, OF NeW-HorK' ana
published here Thee however, several hnhhsheu
msnuscripts Journals and letters, which until now
have not been before THIS pubic In book form' aho
for TIE most part have been seen at all. Paris OF
them have been collected into volume ana puOisneu
In England under the lite, Notes OF Travel ana the
book has JUS beer received by scrbner & wexford IL
is divided into three parts the first being WandernSS
aear Rome" and consisting OF extracts from count
- Moltke's manuscript notes the second, Spanish
Journa'v anc the third. Letters from Paris" Moltke
went % Rene in 1s45 aide-de-camp to Prsce
Henry OF P and during the leisure anofoeo
him by this posion gave his attention to the Roman
Campagna, which at that time had scientifically spea
ing, been unoxplored. The result was map OF the
Canpagna which brought great credit 10 its author and
this day in high repute During the same period
he set himself to the preparation OF work on the
neghborhood OF Rome OF which he seems never to nave
finished more than introduction. From this copous
extracts are given in the Notes of Travel and for the
suggestive comments which they contain on Roman
history and Christianity well MS for an illustration OF
the originality and clear-sghtedness of Mokes mind,
they are worthy Of reproduction. He says
There is indeed scarcely n SPOT the face OF the
globe which many and snch great deeds have been
performed rs that which Is lnc."S6d WITHIN the narrow
the conquest OF this plot Of ground ana lus me same
period was subsequently needed IN order 10 sn9due ne
nd uallf, dae!c a
were wrought in the plains between Ven ana
the foot q the Allan His rn Most Of t faes
for by the tms real history begins the enterprises Of
R0,ne extend Tar beyond these narrow llults Bnt al
which she ACCOMPLISHED be referred to the district
question: IL hence that The great roads Iadla't1
NOS sses rs FAR as the Rhine and the EupbratcS TIE
remains of countless tombs mark their course in the
DeIghbOrhood Of tie mighty city II the forest nag al
one time gwen p3es to aa6 Lana ys o Tnen t in EN-
aud gardens until at LAST WI, wlth o., the ,ost t@i'
Tie seat OF the Empire transferred 10 the Dos
phcrs. end indeed Nature herself seems to have des-
neni, OF or einspherc. Roue owed her greatness to
her ipa' It's COustantinot to her position between
IN The centre OF b9 ancient mainland. Yet
The laiu. D Of Rome, which had been achieved and
powerful that by means Of a new .;d spiritual
tum again from almost credible deoaSemcnt
Ranke observes the dominion Of Rome first aroused
IN mankind the sense OF their common nnmaniIy
ton OF universal God The birth OF Christ took
DtaCC at this moment OF the WJrNS utFcIOpntDl MS
HE was Obsc1re Born of conquered PEOPLE, He had
not His head. He spoke of God IN parahes
OF the maefaelor. And yet earthly life was purer.
exalted. And even when considered from tenn
r,ral standpoint there nothing OF greater moment
than His wandeTings, His teaching, and His DEATH
aaS ha nsrs and affairs Of the ovmpan dees now
adorned temples OF one God. The image OF Cesar
@ %n S the s the 70 r0r
of shameful death. was exalted TO become the emblem
Of victory and glory.
Again be writes of the deep and ineffaceable marks
which changes of time have left the city and
Its neiGhhorhood. The life of modern Rome he says is
unable occupy than part OF the area included
within the wall OF Honorus beyond which 10 the ex-
tent Of four and half mics extend gardens and vine
yards from which far the foot OF the hills the coun
try is desert. Then he continues:
For this reason there is ndescr bable charm in the
On ns apomndnu WITH life and present Of pTcio1aa
Stiffness The castle OF the Ggtani eleayes to the tomb
Meells, and the cupola Of Michel Angelo rises above
Neros circus The tombs OF the martyrs lie amid
leathen eoumbiria and modern roads pass through
blasted by lightning, stands upon The nil on which
waters Of tLe yellow Tiber aud railway will
pass through the plains which witnessed ts1umpha'
to t drow St he 9T the esn Every
step beyond the gates OF Rome 6ings us 10 some
rial great events but they belong to very dlneren
ages
In following passages there interesting sugges
tions Mokes personal experience during his expor
atoms OF the Canpagna:
It's indeed a delightful sensation to pass through the
SUN sleeping city the early morning, and beyond the
garden walls into the free oPe fo 1ee %
stDess prevails In that lonely district and not even
Rome reaches the car There is no house visi
bie Only brightly colored lizards on the OLD ruined
walls the beginning OF the work with their quick
eyes and then dart hastily away me suns 0Gsn.
soft rustic whistles through the broad pine tops
Sometimes there is real danger when the half wild dogs
used for shepherdng the hOcks band together Tor
common ATTACK. But the extraordinary humber OF
snakes of them venoinous Is stu more unpleas-
wayfarer hang the brushwood through which
he must push his way II is necessary to wear hsn a1d
ing. With torn clothes and wounded feet exhausted by
he las dscoyr tomb an inscription the shaft Of
pillar or fragment Of plaster OF winch there no
record In or gulde-DoOKs ne goes Oh MS way Teoe
ing ~ the acquisition
Several paragraphs are given TO adscussion Of the
Roman climate ami the many anomalies which II pre-
sents The Giulia, where the nobles families
built their palaces in the time Of Leo x, now quite
condemned while a street known as Tardinone. the
payemcut Of which defcd with filth, has reputation
for special heathuDess But more curious than all Is
The unh ahfulness at sunset OF Monte Plncioa point
which brings this pece OF description OF the noble
view which the tourist has from that beautiful and cele
brated empence
the height Of eighty feet is one of the most beautiful
IDe bastng city lily below him countless capoias and
steepes tower above the masses OF pa and houses
ancient and modern oudncs Near TO q pine on ColOnna
conspicuous object from afar. there Is an old square
tower from when Nero may have Witnessed the burn
Ing of the city while he sang TO his Tyre Further TO the
right the Capitol towers high above the Venetian
Palace. So. Peter and Paul LOOK down from the col
urnns OF Antoninus ard Trajan, on which they were
placed, as the inscription tells u.s. after they
had been purified from all delcnent." Janiculurn Is
painted violet tnts, together with the stately Aqua
aoia and OF St OnOfrio where asso ended
his unhappy life The Vatican rises like giant out or
the Insts OF the valley the TIber, and Hadrans I'M
mortal monument stands Ike an armed warrior IN me
gathering darkness VI twilight. The sun H. already
scnffng last beams through Michael Angeos WIN
dows In the Pantheon; IL sinks into the twnkling
sen aud tho sky formo wide golden BACKGROUND on