Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-05-15

Gentlemen,s Clothing.

t vi 80 ooaIs; NestS also button high TO match
tie coat showing only the scarf about the
throat, and concealing the shirt 'front.' All
trousers are worn narrower.
Senl-oress suits have the double breasted
fTince Albert coat made Of black or blue cloth
IN ulagOnal or else cOrkScrew patterns; this is
1or church and for general wear, though young
gentlemen prefer the single breasted coat.
Morning coats with flaps and pockets are also
made of these cloths. The vest is of the same
material, and buttons high, with or without a
collar, according to fancy; the binding is of
moderate width. The trousers are closer, and
cOlorS.
Business and travelling suits are made of
Of quaint colors. The entire suit is of one
kind of material The coat is either single
breasted sack TO button three or four buttons
or else the regular English jacket with flaps
ana pockets. The vest buttons very high, and
the trousers are narrow.
Dress coats are not changed in shape, but
are worn shorter than last year. They are
made as plainly as possible, without binding
or cords; the vest Of the same fine black cloth
Is cut low, like the coat, to button three but
IONS White vests are not worn with full
dress sWallow-ta coats, but are used in the
summer with the Prince Albert frock-coats as
part or semi dress suits. White vests are
usually double breasted
Spring OverceatS are single breasted sacks
made OF dark brown or olive Melton. and are
faced with silk on the edges.
SHIRTS, CUFFS COLLARS, ETC.
Gentlemen's shirt fronts are made of three
a., u
out tucks Some have corded edges, but plain
EDGES are most used. They are but two eye
lets for stud, instead of three formerly required
when vests were cut lower. Full-dress Shirts
are also as plain as possible, entirely without
embroidery, and these have but one eyelet, for
a JeWehed stud. as very little jewelry is worn
ny men OF taste. The cats eye diamond is
fashionable for the single stud. When two or
three studs are preferred, they are of white
enamel on gold, made to resemble linen but
tons; or else they are OF yellow. gold and very
10 C1 h11ftn rs, ,fni1
Eered gold are worn linked, so that the cuffs
merely meet at the edges. and the cuffs are
Square-cornered and straight. New collars
stand perfectly straight all around, without
har1ng. and meet close at the throat. Turned
down collars are not very deeply pointed, and
have an inch and half open space in front.
Neg1ge shirts for travelling and for morning
wear are of the finest French cambrics ia
biId,s-egg blue shades with white polka dots
or else white grounds with stripes, bars, dots
and Japanese figures in colors. The Madras
cloths and Scotch ginghams are also used for
these shirts In datntiest colors, forming bars,
plaids, and the familiar blue and white seer
sucker stripes. The heaviest shifting Is the
Cheviot cloth with twilled effects, mostly tn
the gray blue With white. Night-ShirtS of fine
white pelcales have full bosOms, with the
pleats merely irOned in, while the deep turned
over round collar and the box pleat OF the front
are trimmed with colored ruffies of fine wo-
ven goods.
The Pajama suits consist of a loose blouse
and trousers quite straight and wide, In Japan
ese shape, and are made of percae or OF Madras
giIgham. OF seerSucker. OF pongee, or the fine
India toulards: s. will buy percale or gtag-
ham PaJama suit, While those OF pOngee cost
SO and of foulard SIS. Balbriggan vests aud
drawers are the favorite under wear at this
season; they come in plain cream tints and
also in deeper ecru. striped around with red or
blue. These cost 50 or SO a suit. A novelty
for summer underwear is a silk lace vest in
large meSheS OF ecru silk: price 81 80.
SCARFS.
The Punjaub scarf, folded fatty at the throat
to fill the space not covered by the high vesI is
made OF washing goods, in one piece that can be
Hundred without njuring the shape. 1t is ez-
cellent when made OF linen duck or OF pi1ut in
solid colors, or with dots, stripes. or japanese
figures on white or cream ground. Rivalling this
for summer use are neat ties OF Scotch gingnam,
folded In four folds. an inch wide when finished;
these pass around the neck, and are tied by the
WeaTer in a small fat bow Just as full dress VIII lie
ties are worn. The designs are the smallest bars
and hair stripes, with tiny border OF color at
each end, and either straight or fringed ends.
The hirdS-egg blue French cam6ricS with White
polka dots are made In similar ties. Satin ties,
both black and white, are made IN the same way,
and sometimes lines or cOlor5 are added at the
ends, though all black or all white is in best
taste. The narrow black satin is used
for dinners; white satin and white lawn
ties are for full-dress receptions. The
Claudent scarf. OF the popular shape that is
son in the twilled Surah silks in checks or in
plain colorS Windsor ties, which are wide, bias
scarfs, to be tied by the wearer, are especially
these cost sl.25 each. Surah silk OF all dark
rich shades is made up in the Windsor scarfs.
and this shape Is preferred for grenadIne scartS
by gentlemen who can tie a cravat bow easily.
For those who cannot, new scarf. with the
suggestive name OF ''96 In the Shader CON-
mehds itself, as 1t is easily adjusted. and verY
light and cool when made OF grenadine or
Surah.
HANDKERCHIEFs AND HOSIERY
White linen handkerchers for dress occasions
have harrow hens not half an inch wide hem
hDr MIA
general use have wide hens or robins egg blue
or red, with polka dots; sometimes the center is
dotted also. and sometimes the whole hanG&er-
chief is OF this quaint grayisn- blue. SILK pocket
hand erchieis OF Surah. or else printed foulafi
now have similar hens, instead OF a striped
woven border. Colored hosiery is more used than
white or eCru, and is chosen in narrow stripes
around the leg, or else in solid colOrs embr0td-
cred On the instep or merely ciocked On the
sides. The English and French hosiery is FAR
preferable to the German. BalOriggan ana
uale-thread socks are chosen for day wear but
silk socks, especially black silk are used with
low shoes and for full dress. knckerbocker
stockings, very, long and OF ribbed wool, a!e
worn with the knickerbOcser trousers OF hunt
ing suits, and cost s. pair.
SHOES.
There is no change In the shape OF the but
toned CATERS that gentlemen wear on the
street. They are made Of calf skin of Ii rht
weight, with round toes and low square heels
English SoleS are worn with these, and the Shoe
is or symmetrical shape, without being tight
as the best dressed men do not want their Shoes
to appear small Patent leather shoes with
cloth tops are worn for dress, and also at the
STA side, as this glazed leather does not crack
when worn In damp air, and calf skin will not
hold It's polish when exposed to dampnesS.
Morocco slippers are WORE in the house, with
cOlOred socks.
Ihe dreSS hat for spring Is the black silk hat
with low crown, only six and half inches deco
and very narrow brim with well-rolled D'Orsay
curl. These are so yOuthful-lOokng that old
gentlemen have their hats made to order with
broader briInS. The summer dress hat will be
OF the same shape, but OF Silver-pearl color and
made over willow body that makes it very
light and cool: So is the price. For business
hats are very low round crowned Derby
shapes, with the narrow brims describ ID
for dress hats. They are Of black felt
or OF neutral, and mixed colors for the
present season, and OF pearl gray for midsun-
mer; they cost $3.50 The most fashionabl
straw hat will be the MackinaW, which is very
sort yet rough-loOktng, with stiff straight brin
the price Is g. so TO S.. The English Dunstable
straw hats Will also be worn In The same shape
sou Ielt mats In medium color are shown In LIGHT
Welgnts suitable for travelling hats. For steamer
hats are those OF stitched cloth, with round
crown and rolled brim stitched all over. Helmet
mats OF plth Tor country wear are liked for their
HghtneSS, and are shown in different cOlorS.
GLOVES.
The heavy Cheyrette kid glove made in Eng
nSh fashion, with three broad rows OF stitching
or embroidery on the back, and fastened by two
buttons. is the fashionable choice for gentle
men. Lighter qualities Of kid are also made up