The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-05-07
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
NEW BONNETS.


Fresh developments in millinery are shown
at the latest openings of imported bonnets sent
out from Paris after the styles of the season
are definitely settled. Two shapes prevail in
these hats-frst, the gypsy with slight poke
shape for the brim, and second, novelty in
small bonnets, viz, the. close coronet bonnet,
which is small close cottage shape, with a
coronet standing around the brim, clinging to
the head, and framing the face. This coronet
is OF chip, and may be plain or covered with
satin or with lace, and serves usually as q
background for flowers. 1t is very handsome
in the new satin straws, with wreath Of pam
sizes on the coronet. or else poppy wreath Just
back of the coronet. Lace and satin bonnets
have beaded coronets of jet, or pearl, or else
cashmere beads; the crown is then beaded to
MATCH and the space between is covered with
pleatings of lace, or else with lace scarf.
The gypsy bonnets have small poke brim
which shows the parting of the front hair, al
though the bonnet is worn very far forward.
The low double coils and plaits of hair that are
now so fashionable suit this gypsy bonnet, as
the back of the crown rests easily upon the low
coil. All the face trimmings detract from the
simple style of this bonnet, but the richest vel
vet of pale blue, heliotrope, or poppy red is
used for lining tine brim, and this may be
edged with very narrow lace gilt braid or
else row of large beads directly on the brim
The trimming sweeps round the crown closely,
and consists, perhaps, of single long, very
full ostrich plume and tiny cluster of flowers
low behind tine ear. Indeed, the flowers now
used are so large that single flower is gener-
ally all that is needed, as, fer instance, a
white gypsy has pale sky-blue plume held by
one large and velvet-like pansy; the purple Of
this pansy is almost blue, and with its bits of
pale yellow the combination with the blue of
the plume is very quaint and pretty. Pale blue
velvet edged with the narrowest gold-lace
lines the brim of this bonnet, and the strings
are the new tape -bordered gros grain ribbon of
the same blue shade, Soft satin duchesse or
brocaded ribbon trims some gypsies, while one
of black chip faced with wide gold braid has a
scarf OF black net dotted with gold beads, and
held by Marshal Neil roses. Pale heliotrope
velvet makes beautiful Inning for pokes that
are trimmed with heliotrope flowers of both
light and dark shades, and a wide barbe of
white lace. The new salmon red velvet lines
the brim of leghorn bonnet that is trimmed
with white point Raguse lace barbe held by
two golden pansies. Fancy Tuscan braids in
lace-like patterns so open that the bonnet has
W oO AiiO0 WIFI SILK are also maue up
in these shapes.
One of the novel fancies on imported dress
bonnets is that OF having pearl-beaded applique
embroidery on velvet crowns for chip bonnets;
for instance, on heliotrope velvet with point
d'Angleterre barbeS for trimming, held by
pearl pins. The cashmere beads of large size
are also now used for edging brims in the way
jet beads have been worn, and the smaller
beads are then set in loops on black lace
crowns.
int Ioo IaI Il
Raguse are considered more elegant than the
Languedoc or Breton, though they do not pro-
fess to be anything more than machine-made
laces, and are sold for about 50 yard in trim
ming widths: These have very fine irregular
meshes that Initiate those of round point, and
are only partly covered by large flower designs
strewn about in clusters, while the larger seal
loped edge is formed by vine.
Lace bonnets of plain lace, either black or
white, when not beaded heavily, have first
hne knlfe-pleating set on the outside of the
Drlm OF the lace frame. just back of this
wreath OF large flowers without foliage is
grouped, then lace scarf or fichu is laid over
the flowers as if yelling them, and drawn so
closely as to seem to crush them. The ends of
the scarf or fichu form the strings and the
middle droops over the crown. In white lace
bonnets there is sometimes a regular crown
covered with rosette made of row after row
OF the pleated lace. The tiny bunch of flowers
below the left ear is the only trimming, unless
long pin with a large gold head is thrust
into the lace.
The Spanish lace bonnets approach more
nearly the design of the Spanish mantilla-
They are made of one very long black scarf
very lightly mounted on frame which is
really only wire bar across the front and be-
low where the crown should be. This bar is
covered with row of large gold beads. A
bunch of roses is behind the left ear, and
another bunch catches the scarf together low
| on the breast Red and yeAow nasSurtAuuns
with velvet petals, crimped transparent pop
pies, and double hollyhocks are among the
flowers used on black lace bonnets. Gold lace
IS sewed in two or three rows across the ends
of black net strings.
Among the new ribbons those entirely of
gilt threads, making a sort of cloth of gold, are
the most elegant for Tuscan and lace bonnets.
Yellow satin ribbon with palm leaves bro
caded upon it is also used for strings, and there
are many of twilled silk doubled and tied in
long-looped bows below the crown.
Very picturesque round hats of white chip
have the wide brim bordered with daisies,
and turned up directly in front, where a satin
bow holds it. Turbans and Gainsboroughs
rival the gypsy as hats for young ladies.