Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1880-06-11
IFrom tae New York Sunday Mercury

capacities of establishment tine advan-
| ta5o nf being within the reach Of all |
purses. At least they are SO when ladies' |
can manufacture pretty tritles of linen, |
and silk, and lace, and muslin and ribbon |
with their own hands Otherwise, such
| things are apt to be by no means an in
expensive luxury. Bat nothing is rhore
easily attained than facility in the making
of them. Given good model to copy
| from-in ease a woman has no inventive
ability or no aptitude for carrying shapes
| in her mind-und an average amount of
| dexteritv with thread and needle, and
there is no woman who cannot, ii she be
so inclined, make the greater part Of her
small auiclcs of lingerie. The work is
light and dainty, altogether feminine and
pretty, and easily taken up at spare mo-
mentS, and it seems to MS that it IL the
sort Of work, pleasant To look at and sew
upon, and useful at the same time. which
should become fashionable and be patron
lied by ladies', instead of the intermina-
BILE pieces Of ''fancy" work they usually
lose their time and ruin their eyesight
upon. and which generally serves no
earthly purpose, and Is OF no manner ol
use. In the making Of iichus, jabots,
etc. it is the lace which forms tine chief
item of expense but even that is often n
very tri.lng one as Il good quality OF
imitation lace is always perfectly permis-
siblr. provided it Is of the particular
kind fashionable nj the time. When Ia
dies possess real laccs the effect of the
objects OF lingerie upon which they are
placed rs trimming is, OF course, very
much enhanced, and there is aSreatef ap-
pearance of richness about the whole ;
| but imitation l,crs, when real ones are
not prorrrablc. do very nicely indeed,
only it is generally necessary to have
more lace than if one Were trimming with
real lace, as i'll that case the quaiIty
makes up for the quantity ii the latter is
not great.
- The smallest scrap of real lace can be
\ turned to account and made to appear
effective, if the owner knows how to ar
range it ingeniously with other materials
| The most dimlnutive and apparently un-
available odd, and ends should never be
thrown away as useless. Some use can
be found for them. Lace and muslin
next the skin, although soft and pretty
and generally becoming, are not invaria-
| bly, SO. There are complexions which
look better with plain linen collars, max
| inc a decided contrast to theIa. When
! the comp, son is ,isiiglutd hv blotches
| or is Coarse, sO1t. full ruches of iace, par
ticularlv crepe lisse, are n mitigation Oh
the evil. particularly at nigh,.
When the ski is soft ard clear, al
though it will lock well with either lace
or linen near ii. the former Is AGAIN the
more becoming. But there are pale !
| opaque skins. that lack life, to which the
severe lines of the plain white collar af-
ford relief, while ruti!es and ruchcs are
not decided enough to take from Their
duluess. There are cold, fresh, rcd and
white compilations, like the skin "f an
apple. not peach, winch do not gam by
| th, contrast of soft rufiies, and whose
crisp clearness shows to better advantage
against plain linen collar. Todark wo-
mlu lace and tulle are more becoming
| than linen. When tine neck is long or
bony, ruiilcs are the most becoming.
| Euiiies about the wrists are more be
coming than linen cuffs In fact the
latter are never becoming. except when
the large style coming over the hand like
.en.leman's cuff is fashionable these
make the hand look small. Although
| full rachinms about the wrist are softer
and more feminine, it is better to wear
! linen cGils and collars un certain occG-
! ,ions, such rs travelling, or where a long
Iay is t. be spent from home, where II
| Change IN the toilet will not br possible,
| aud vet one wishes io he neat and fresh
or in summer on picnics or excursions
when il is necessary to make :;ny eNrr-
ton. HuchinGs tumbled III the l,:isi de
gree are unsightly, culls aud collars equal
" So, but they can go through m''rt ".'f
and tear before becoming 81. In summer
some ladies' find it impossible t. keep IL
riiilc in II decent condition around the
neck. Linen collars may not he as he
coming To them, and they may object t"
them st that season on the ground that
they are thick and warm but fresh
liurn collar is better at any cost than
limp. dragglc,l ruilr. which will certain
! " not be becoming.
Some ladies rndravor to rtcH..cile both
interests by wearing IL little stiif standing
collar under the ruchr, between 1t and
the threat. The plan is not :: bad one
1t serves Its purpose Of keeping the linen
about the neck fresh. and with dresses Of
II certain thickness it docs not look Ill.
With thin dresses it scarcely does 50 we'll,
so far rs appearance is concerned looks
more of IN anomaly.
The chimisettcs that were formerly at
tarhed to collars and ere still always a.
tachcl by French ''iingcries, have the
dnublr advantage of making the collar
set much better than it does when al
iusted with pins. and of preserving the
backs of dresses from disculoraiinn
through pcrspirntlon III summer amt 1"r
these reasons deserve to gain popularity.
Thin lawn and muslin dresses do not fe-
unirc separate rlichngs IN the neck ana
sleeves II trimming of lace of the same
as that upon the rest of the toilet II lncr
trimming there Is, answers the purpose
rs we'll, and, in fact better. There can
be- two rows of lace, and the inner one,
or bnth can be put IN with IL" hastings
..o as to be easily taken ont and washed
when soilcd, whirh is sure to he the ease
lun.. b-farr the dress itself requires ''do-
ing up" This mathud OF keeping III"
trimming about the neck and sleeves OF a
Tim dress spotless frcshens the effect oil
the whole toilet immensely. As for wear
ing any sort of II dress. and particularly
l Il thick one, without either lace, cuffs,
collar or rilchin%s, rs some LADIES' NOR"
, than occasionally do. ii is simply not per
missibe Bracelets will not make up
for the deficiency about the wrists, nor
, will any snr; of ndurnmcnt for that about
. the neck. except perhaps that only
| for morning, Dir, s;a5. ur quite ''undrcss
= ts-handlcrchicfs of null and lace
1 tied closely about ihc neck anl conceal
ing the collar of the dress, where the
1 line of white collar or ruff should be.
+ Besides tie untidy appearance which Il
5 dress always has without the proper nd-
| juncts at the neck and wrists, the lnck NJ
l them. displaying the hard. unfinished
+ lines of the material itself next to the
r. skin, is unbccuming i'll the extreme both
+ To face and hands. II a lady has any
r. prctcutinn Of dressing well she should
IA adhere closely tn the prevailing fashions
t in lingerie The small, subtle variations
t. that take place i'll the shape OF collars,
$ for instance, impcrccptihlc to lneXperl-
$ onccd observers. are very sI"nihcant 10
= those who are az JGjt rs to whether the
{ wearcr is Informed rs to the cIrrce'
f of fashion. and thoroughly understands
r. both them and herself. For the very
g reason that il is only The finer sort "i III
t. spectiOn which will detect the presence "i
Il the proper thing, "r the absence "t H.
i, tha lingerie shIuld always ht such as IL
= be able frarlossly to bear that inspection
And this Is Il Tu!r which arples t1 II great
II many other itcm4 in dress b'shie1 in
i geric The m,uu;i:c ii lingerie,
II such rs collars, crtis, handkerchieis,
already SAID pl