Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1880-11-25
FOR TIE FAIR SRXs
Autumn and winter yyraps.

The cloths for autumn and winter
wraps are made with figured or rough
surfaces rather than with the smooth
lustrous finish of broadcloth. They are
of unusual thickness, yet soft and aexi-
BILE; and as colored threads in cheviot
effects are introduced, 1t is more than
ever necessary that they be pure wool,
or else they will not be serviceable. For
plain wraps the choice lies between the
serviceable diagonal cloths with inside
fleece, or else the loosely woven yet
heavy cheviots. For dressy sacks for
young ladies the coachman's drab
shades are much used, though the nov
city introduced by Pingat, who is the
leading Partisan designer of cloaks, is
for basket-woven cloths combining as
many colors as are found in the bourette
cloths worn two years ago. Seal brown
or black diagonal cloths are chosen for
serviceable plain cloaks, while the
cheviot checks, irregular plaids, or
mixed surfaces are used for jaunty coats
Tor general wear, and for the useful
ulsters that are by no means confined to
travelling wraps, but serve often for
shopping and instead of waterproof gar
ments. Larger plaids are for mantles
in the McGregor style, though these are
often fanciful Madras plaids instead of
those of the Scottish tartans. Another
novelty is the repped cloth like empress
cloth, with half an inch of long warm
fleece on the inside; this is used for the
long rich coaks with plush or fur bor-
ders.
Above all else plush is the favorite
trimming, especially for masculine
shaped jackets that merely require a
collar, cuffs and pockets. The hood,
which is added to many jackets, should
be arranged 20 button on, so that il need
not always be worn. A lining of plush
or OF some striped or spotted Surah satin
is seen in most hoods. There IS a fancy
for single breasted jackets, and for those
without the skirt piece sewed across the
hips,yet many skirted coats with double
breasted fronts are worn. What is called
the jersey coat dispenses with collar,
cuts and the double fronts, and is made
TO bit rs closely as possible; even the
pockets are without flaps, and are set
underneath the fronts, with n diagonal
opening bound on each edge. Rows of
Buttons set on the seams are the only
ornaments. These are for very young
ladies, and are shown in gray and blue
cloths for SI3 so. The genuine Jersey
webbing, of which the Jersey waists
are made, is made up into more ex-
pensive jackets for autumn wear, but
there is no attempt to give the close
Jersey effect to these garments. They
are simply English double-breasted
Jackets, OF dark blue, brown, black
or plum-colored, and are piped no
the edges with satin OF the same
shade. Large pearl or metal but
tons are their only trimming. Well
made jackets of cheviot cloths with
plush cloths and collars cost from SI2
TO S25 each. These are of the stylish
medium length, not long enough to
Conceal the drapery Of short costumes,
nor so short as to look scanty in the
presence of longer garments. One of
the newest caprices is that of adding n
ahort pelerine cape to jackets. To give
3 stylish effect this cape must be cut of
straight across the back-not rounded
and must cling closely TO the shoulders.
reaching just below the armholes. This
Is shown on the Charlotte Corday coats
that fit like sacks. and also on the long
loose clOaks with full-gathered sleeves
Mantle shapes, or those with dolman
effects, are considered more stylish but
less youthful than the jaunty coats, and
are mostly chosen by older ladies.
There is n fancy, however, for military
looking mantles with double capes in
'front.' for young ladies, and even for
schoolgirls. Some of these are trimmed
With gilt or silver braid, and are made
Of blue cloth, but BLACK braid, rows of
stitching, or else the Havelock plaitings
are better trimmings. The monks cloaks
re also unique garments in favor with
soung ladies. They are loose and long,
18th gathered sleeves and gathered
hood, and sometimes little capes ar
.dded.
In place of the belted ulster that was
% generally unbecoming, there are now
sarious gracefully-shaped long cloaks
made of the English cheviot cloths OF
quiet colors. The English driving cloak
! an excellent overall" wrap of this
Ind; 1t has n circular back fitted and
mapped by seams, square sleeves in a
loose front, and n pointed hood. This
: made of cloth of mixed colors, with
brocaded lining for the hood, and costs
3S5. Others Of much less expensive
Cloths are shown with double-breasted
Fonts cut off across the hips and length
ned like polonaise. Another style
as cape that may be buttoned up to
|0rm n hood, while still another has
kilt-plaiting at the back and double
apes, while most picturesque of all is