The daily gazette., 1880-11-06
Our European Letter.
Special correspondence OF the Gazette.

So soon as the Passion Play was
ended we started on our return Jour-
ney to Munich.> The carriages were
already awaiting, and it was dark by
the Time we were fairly on the road.
We had a covered carriage and two
good horses that were TO take us to
MOI neau, sixteen miles by the road,
where we were to find the special
train. The carriage lamps were lit,
and cast strong light over the road
for some distance before. The whole
road was swarming with men and
women on foot, Through which worm
ed continuous limo of carriages so
far as we could see. The driver said
the road for ten miles was crowded
all the way, and that he would take
the road over the mountain in order
to reach Morneau in time for the
train. 81, after creeping on with
the crowd for a mile or two, he struck
out through the woods that seemed
endless, and up steep hill, that,
Judging from the time required to
reach the top, must have carried us
up amongst the clouds. Three hours
OF continuous climbing before we be-
gan to descend sometimes on the
edge ofa precipice over which plung-
ed waterfalls down into the black
ness of darkness so deep we
could but family hear the fall of the
waters on the rocks below.
But if we crept up the mountain,
we fairly flew down the other side
the horses being unable to hold back
the carriage even with brake ap-
piled. A party of our new made ac-
qnaintances declined to leave Ober-
Amergau on account Of The danger
OF crossing the mountain at night, =
We learned that they left next
morning, and in descending the
mountain the brake gave way
throwing the carriage on the horses
and killing both of them and the
coachman. Fortunately the passcn
gers escaped with sli5ht injuries.
We passed wonderfully old look
ing Jesuit College, where no women
are ever allowed tie set foot.
1t was lit up for night study, ant
there were many students in black
gowns observable as we passed. th5
windows.
The coach stopped at Utter Am
mergau to give the horses rest anC
bait. 1t is quite large town, buI
we did not leave our carriage.-
Many a wondering eye peeped IN
upon the strangers who, at midnight
sat there in their town as complete
ly lost as though in desert. But
soon we were again plunging along
through the woods that seemed to u'
fearfully wild. Occasi nally the
lamps showed an opening in which
was a Swiss cottage with Its little gar
den enclosed. No other sign of life
in all the solitary road. You may
imagine that the lights of Morncal
with its waiting train were haileC
with pleasure.
Two days more amongst the pic
ture galleries and churches and pal
aces of Munich, and trip along the
shores of the Iser which here is evel
"rolling rapidly and we again be-
gin our westward journey. Switzer
land is in the direct road to France
When in ber-Ammergau we were
one hundred miles from Venice ant
a little over fifty miles from Lake
Constance, but it required a car
riage journey of about two days tC
reach either place.
The season in Switzerland was
over and it was cold amongst the
Alps.
We were advised that it Was too
late to see the mountains with any
satisfaction and we reluctantly took
the northern route for Paris, pass
ing through Ulm, Baden, Strasburg
and Nancy.
A mocking sight of the far away
Alps. from the highest point over
which we passed, is all we saw Of
the "cverlasting hills" There
they were the snowy peaks glitter
ing in the morning sun, a glorious
vision never to be forge ten, even
though we should return next sum
mer for closer acquaintance.
We stopped at Baden-Baden and
expecting to see Saratoga we were
disappointed, for there is no parallel
except in the great hotels and a
likeness in the summer
visitors, who were still there IN
great numbers. The notorious "con-
versation haus," or "Kursall" is a
large white building with wide
porch or colonade and court or
garden in front. 1t was closed and
The tall neglected grass all about it
md INTENDED shrubbery and flowers
gave it pit iful appearance.
Baden is at the beginning of the ia
nous "Black Forest of whose wood
choppers and robbers and fairies and
ynomes, &C., every child has read.
The Back Forest is an apparently end
ess stretch of woodland covering
mountain and valley for many miles.
The wood is dark pine, not the great
rees of our imagination, but rather of
small growth, very few measuring
more than foot in the greatest dame
er of its trunk.
In Strasburg is the grand Cathedral
With its lofty spine of delicately chs,
He'd stone, rising near five hundred
aet from the ground, and only exceed
d in height and beauty by its newly
nished sister of Cologne. 1t contains
he wonderful astronomical clock,
,hich performs so many curious feats
q