The Sunday herald. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1866-1887, 1880-04-25

prtstug consequence Ot tue hUtrVNWc-
tion of Elevated Railroads = Won
dreus works Of Art In wemcn's
SHOES nud stockings.
New York Cor. Of the Cincinnati Enquirer.
Fashions are often affected by local causes.
we have remarkable example lust now in this city.
Beautiful shoes and stockings for women, and attfui
methods Of wearing them, have coinc suddenly into
vogue Never before has much care ana expense
been put Into the coverings Of female feet and legs,
This Is conspicuous feature Of the spring styles and
MS such must, aa fashion correspondent, not fa TO
chronicle It, The Of the movement II palpabe;
II IL nothing else than the elevated railroads. -Four
Of these lines are stretched In air aud everybody
rides on them, To reach the stations stairways OF
varying height sometimes rising TO the level OF six
story housctop, must he climbed. You see the point
at once Women's slicos and stockings have become
articles Of publicity. Women do not like TO exhibit
such things hut VI forced by the cxgences OF elevated
railroad travel to do so they are detcrmlned-and
speak, he 1t remembered, MS one Of thcm-that the
display shall moi he unatracivc. So there Is nothing
reprchensble In the present metropolitan rage for
lne undergcar. Unlike the Infamous fitting hoops
OF fifteen years ago, which made wantonly INDIGENOUS
displays, little Is shown except Of necessity. No
woman can mount fifty or n hundred steps without
showing her feet to those behind her and II her dress
he OF the fashionable slorincss for street wear,
or less Of her stockings Will be visible too. high
wind intensnes the interest Of the Spectators make
these particulars plain In order to clear my fashiona-
BILE sisters from ali unfair suspicion In their craze for
identifying their ordinarily concealed extremlties.
Shoes are devised IN various new styles, the chief
really are. This effect Is best produced by making
the heels high and setting them forward as far as
practicable Thus we have the French heels brought
back into greater favor than ever. The woman's
heels stick ont behind, like those OF the theoretical
darkey and 1t might be dincuit for near sighted
man, looking only Mt her feet to tell whether she was
going upstairs or coming down. One rather clever
expedent for hiding this back portion Of the foot to
have the rear and upper parts OF the shoe made OF cloth,
lets the real and the French heel stick out looking
like very small entire foot. Women with naturally
dmnutve feet take advantage of that happy fact of
neat, plain shoes, with square, honest heels. The
wearing OF pads the inster to turn FIAT feet Into
high ones Is very common, and they are kept open
sale In the ancygoods stores Colorcd leather Is used
but only In dark shades. low shoe, almost slipper
late style, and will be likely to ind favor as soon
the weather settles warm for 1t is best suited to
show the embroidery OF stockings Thus far, how
ever, CATERS only are seen They are low and some
reaching half way to the knee, no longer seen.
Buttons the universal fastening for CATERS, and
costly one are usedsome with quite nc settings Of
precious stones OF dark color. pair OF gaiters
with diamond buttons are seen twinkling up and
down the starways OF the Sixth-nv stations but
advertisement. Such glitter Is In bad taste, and no
lady of taste would indulge In It,. The same con-
dcnaiion IL deserved by the metallic clanklng heels
with which certain women manage to attract atten-
tion. Little tassels permissible at the tops OF
CATERS IN 'front.' and small rosettes, but they must
not be Of bright color. The toes of shoes
very pufgatory of torment for the wearers Physi-
clans say that perfect health Is indicated when per-
organs. all being at entire ease. The fashionable
woman. on the contrary, is not happy unless she |.
conscious of painful feet; otherwise, she would feel
that her feet could he made to look smaller.
Stockings have come ont refulgent. All the old
forms of stripes, iings, and figures. with countless
additions, are to be seer on legs and on counters.
Speaking of legs why do some of our over sensitive
American women dodge the word by saying limbs
English ladies know no such nonsense, and speak
plainly of legs, when they mean legs, without ever
thinking OF immodesty. Therein they arc sensible,
and refined people In New York are following thell
example, The finest Of silk Is put Into these beauti.
figure by elaborate embroidery. Generally the de-
signs artistic and pleasing though tho rage runs
TO In directions. Positive improperly II
involved In pair of stockings that saw In store
They had foundation of hesh-coored silk. ovei
which was gauzy surface OF blue. When worn, o.
course, 1t will look like veil OF llue real flesh
hut who win dare to wear Ill The same brazen sor
of women suppose, who viii put on that othe
shameful pair In which short hose are simulated Will
the knees. The effect would DO startling, Imagine
These ofenses are exceptional for the great bulk o.
the spring stockings are chaste and lovely. Has tn,
reader ever considered how different Is the effect o
color from white in feminine stockings9 The ONT
looks dressed and the other undressed. Remember
when you last actress IN feshings and how he
aspect of nudeness shocked you. Then RECALL Who'll,
stage full of buresquers' legs In bright-cOiOred stock
ings, and You will admit that, by comparison, they
seemed decently clothed. The same rule holds goo'
elevated railroad stairways and our women art
wise to the colors, provided they are TASTEFUL!
blended Dark hues are popular; and black, Will
trhe of red yellow. blue, is great deal. TIT
drawback Of black is that it makes the legs seem fa
smaller than they arc. tn avoid the appearance o
spindle shanks is quite generally had to pad
ding. Women need no longer go to the well-knOwi
theatrical hosiery store In the Boweiy for 'symme
tries ~ All the corset makers provide slcl
helps to shapeliness, and great deal of skin is
pended suiting them to the varied requirements o
widely differing legs It is not too much to say tina
New York women never before dressed their feet ant
| legs carefully rs they do now.
Costumes of moderate cost are likely to he over
looked by fashion writer's who are tempted TO de
l ri, mara oil ia A N
| the Stores however, has supplied me with matter o
the reasonable sort. Almost every description o
| high priced novelties whether imported produces
at home, is quickly taken up by manufacturers @
cheap goods, and Initiated In more or less admIral
manner. Goods Mt 25 cents yard are made to loo
like the 81 stuff, though of course II Will not wear
WELL In the hands OF tasteful and judicious maker
of suits. these materials work up very well into street
| travelling, and home dresses for 81 to $40. An In
| stance noted in my memorandum is a walking cos
tune of English wlnsey, or mixed suiting consistin
of trimmed skirt and jacket. The prevailing ton
| soft flannel finish. The underskirt Is trimmed a
around with row Of plating, above which til
front of the skirt is laid in folds gathered at the side
| and slasbed In the centre, the back drapery bein
made fun. The pockets cuffs, and collar of the Goa
are made OF contrasting shade of French popr
| This suit was marked $40. so, and could probably Il
made for several dollars less. Another combnatio
| Of monte cloth and brocade, of brown and drab mix
lures, is sl6 The undefskirt Is trlnmed round til
upper part of the skirt is laid In two scarf draperes
tile back very fully draped, and trimmed with ban
|
breasted, and OF the style known as the English coa
| basque. Lovely house dresses of cambria and per
Gale, having all the effect of the Yedd0 crepe an
| fouard costumes, can be bought from a to ga
| prown linen suits, made up with view of bein
easily washed and ironed cost only 90. Those VIII
desire TO make for themselves can take the fOll0win
for general mOdel The bottom OF the skirt Is trim
med all around with deep knife plating, heade
with fourinch band of scotch gingham IN contrast
Ing coors. The overskirt Is draped high at the side
and full In the back, and lnsbed With banas of cling
ham, The basque ~ tight hitting, and trimmed wit
the ginghan TO Initiate waistcoat 'front.' The cola
Is standing and the cuffs and pockets trimmed
match. The long English surtonts, or coaching uls
| tiers, are also sold low here. When not OF very fin
cashmere. and not lined with bright silk or satin
they be had ut $40 to Si2; when Of mOhair pop
| lin, for g. The landsomcst dolmans, nantes, an
shoulder capes, lined witt, gay SILK and trimmed wit
embrOideries, passenenteries, fringes or plating
Of lace, are from sa5 to slOO but very pretty an
dressy ones Of diagonal cloth and inexpensive gre
grain SILK can be bought for ell to So Cheap wakin
| Jackets are made of dark corduroy cashmere, at
| to 50.
Light dress costumes for young women and girls al
| made very pretty now OF white organdie. They al
| more deliberately trimmed than formerly, with MOI
profuse shirrings, pniings and plaitings, and niue
larger qualities Of lace. Tho prices range from sl3
| 500 and they could doubtless be made In Ctncinna
for less The patterns be had Of almost any OF Il
various dealers, and the materials In your dry goot
stores Those In the lower grade OF prices have Ut
trimmed skirts, and are intended for girls In tleI
| teens They arc of organize muslin combined wit
limitation Breton or yalenciennes lace. The botto
OF the skirt is trimmed with two rufies OF oil
candle. with lace Insertions, and edged wit
lace. A simulated oyerskirt Of organdie trlmme
with lace is arranged in paners at the sides. caugl
up In front with full loops OF white satin ribbon,
fail In graceful drapery at the back The front Of n
waist consists OF alternate perpendicular puings an
Insertions arranged to represent walstc0at, aud III
back Is trimmed In similar style. The sleeves al
trimmed with diagonal insertions OF lace, and fnishe
with lace Rulings. The cuffs and collar match Il
general style OF costume and the trimmings are
any shade Of ribbon desired. The most elaborate an
costly grade OF prgandie and Lace combinations al
long trained dresses for evening or occasional wes
by old young. They are In princess form, and MAD
thus, The bottom Of the skirt Is formed OF founce
muslin, laid In box- paiis and edged with lace, whic
Is carried completely round The front Of the skirt
trimmed IN two deep points, formed Of rowsnf lat
| Inserting with narrow and wide edge, and hnishe
with bows Of satin ribbon The hack Is trimmed wit
similar points either side, while between the froI
and back the sides OF the skirt are trimmed viii
honnces of the material laid insma plats, each edge
with lace Between the points AT the back the skirt fal
In cascade TO form the train, and Is elaborated
trimmed with plaitings OF the material edged wit
lace, Tho upper part OF the costume Is divided from IL
lower by a Of double loops OF satin ribbon, and
trimmed, front and back, with perpendicular inserting
OF embroidery. The sleeves are similarity trimmed
and both front and sleeves finished With bows an
loops Of ribbons The collar Is OF lace laid In paits
4 funny scene, and one quite within the subject
~. IA 1akF