Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1880-09-24

Ol lnt Ilcn lnul mOrOlue VI
the shawl.
A new overdress which, it is said,
will be worn this winter for full dress,
is the lawn tennis apron, with bib,
back and front, heavily embroidered
and trimmed with lace and large
bows.
New hosiery is shown at the Grand
in plaid designs to match the
new plaid suits. Polka dotted stock
ines are also seen, while the old ia
vorites reappear in dark or bright
solid colors, embroidered or plain.
Surah and soft silks, generally in
bright hues, are being largely used in
Paris for re-trimming last years
gowns in the form of Innings, braid
ings and plaits of color being intro
duced here and there to brighten up
the whole.
An elegant novelty is plush in tiger
%colors, in designs Of overlappingshells,
so thick in pile that each stands up
and out from the ground Of the mate
rial. The material is superb and the
price is thirty dollars per yard.
Some very tasteful novelties in dress
trimmings are shown. Prominent
among these are braided passementries
and ornaments in jet and colored
beads, and the new cloak and dress
buttons, which this year are more
artistic than ever.
Silk circulars and long cloaks in
dolman shape will continue fashion
able. Some elegant novelties are
shown in embossed matelasses and
double-width brocades Of velvet and
silk, the same fabrics as those shown
in single width for jackets and coats.
In Paris for promenade costume
the jersey bodice, laced at the back,
with or without hood, is a great fa-
vorite. The other fashionable styles
are the casaque aud habit jacket, the
blouse and plated bodice, with a
pointed waist %buttoniug at the back,
with a plated or small many-aounced
skirt.
Once a black bonnet meant subdued
mourning. Now it means nothing at
all, and a black bonnet embroidered
with Jet and trimmed with feathers is
preferred to any other by brides
whose purses are slender, and is worn
everywhere except to places where
full dress is necessary.
English jackets of l~ight-colored
cloths, with large plush collars, cuffs
and pockets, will be the first wraps
worn when the cool days come. The
large buttons and the pretty Innings of
heliotrope, old gold, pink, pale blue or
cardinal Surah are marked features of
these jaunty jackets.
Those pointed overskirts when the
wind does not blow them about so
that they look like mad things, gives
the figure a look that reminds one of
the slash dress formerly worn by a
court fool, aud when a woman puts a
tassel on each point the resemblance
is even more plainly suggested.
The new French shades are most
peculiar; the newest is called "tete de
fashan." Then there is a tawny We
netian red and a lapis blue and some
greens for evening wear that bring
to mind all sorts ofmarshy vegetation.
The desire appears to be to compass
the eccentric rather than the pleasing.
Black dresses are more than v e in
fashion, and some of them will be o.
exceptional richness. Such, among
others, are dresses of black Grape OF
black tulle, embroidered with gold
amber and fridescent beads. These
beads have a dazzling effect, height
ened by the sombre background. The
foundation Of such dresses is always
Of black satin,
A dainty novelty comes in the form
of a small round Japanese fan, with
a long, carved teak wood orivoTy han
die, the body of the fan covered witt
quillings Of black French lace, anC
the center filled with daises with vel
low and black centers, and the horde
decorated also with the same flowers
The under side of the fan has a hand.
painted design Of daises and leaves.
Very beautiful and rich are the EN-
broidered tulle tunics shown for even
ing dresses. One is OF white tulle
with daisies and leaves; another black
with shaded crimson roses, and We
another has Wild roses, pink and white
wrought on its surface. The especia
oeauty of these is hal the embroidery
being done on Brussels net, appears a
a short distance as If wrought on dres
material. A border comes with tn
tunic for trimming waist and sleeves
A novel design shown at Madam
Demorest's late opening was the "R1
salou' toilet. The basque, thong
short in front, lengthens at the side
into panels reaching to the bottom Q
the skirt, and at the back gives tn
effect CT 2 long basquine over a full
round train. This graceful toilet ais
illustrates a novelty, which is to divid
the seams Of the basque or polonais
below the waist, gather the detache
ends closely, and finish each one wit
a bow Of ribbon, a %tassel, or a jet bal
For mantles in silk, satin and Sicili
enne, and for wraps in cashmere an
alpaca. a distinctly new shape is wor
by fashionable English women, viz
the cassock, Enthusiastically suggeste
by an academical robe. 1t comes yer
} high in the throat and reaches almOi
to the hem Of the skirt and is lare
and flowing. The hand is slippe
} through tiny sleeves about six inche
deep. and closely set rows Of running
about the throut recall the academi
, robe, but give a square, unnaturs
height TO the shoulders,
;. Virginia Politics.
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