The Portland daily press., 1880-12-03
New York Fashions.
[Harper's Bazar.l


The small close bonnet and the large quaint
poke are the favorite bonnets this season; the
former is for dress, and the latter for general
wear. The small bonnet has been adopted by
young ladies, to the entire exclusion of round
hats for dressy occasions, even the becoming
fur beaver Gainsboroughs having been rele-
gated to misses and children. Plush remains
the fayorite material both for the foundation
of the bonnet and its trimmings There is an
effort to introduce uncst velvet, but it has an
elderly look and is without the lustrous sheen
that now finishes all stylish fabrics 1t is
however, very handsome on pale shades of
blue and silver for trimming. White plush
bonnets are perhaps the most popular of all for
full dress, and are often trimmed with two
rows of fiuted gold lace around the front aud
back, while the feathers are white ostrich tips
and gilt pompons. The plush is put over the
front in aud to the edge of the crown in a clus-
ter of thick corrugated folds that extend from
ear to ear across the top; these folds stand up
ward and are quite distinct but it would de-
tract from the style OF the bonnet to puff the
plush, or TO tie it in the great knots and bows
used last year. The top OF the bonnet is well
defined, and the entire trimming is lnassed low
ON the left side. This trimming consists mere
of three small ostrich tips that curl forward
and outward, or else two or three pompons are
placed stiffly against the left side. Some
times an ornament of gilt or of steel catches
the folds together in the middle of the front of
the bonnet, giving the effect of an Alsacian
bow. Strings are on all bonnets, and these
the chin-not behind or on one side,
As they were last year. Bonnets OF
black plush studded with large gilt beads, or
with the crown covered with network of
steel beads, are worn by older ladies'; the POM
pons are then of black feathers tipped with
gold. For plaiL wear ladies buy glossy
olack beaver bonnet for Sl.75, and put some
bias plush inside the brim for facing, turning
it over broadly on the outside for trimming;
some tips quite low down, or else three of the
inexpensive silk pompons on one side, complete
the bonnet. Ii 1T is desirable to introduce COL
or, this must be done in the strings, or the
tips, or pompOns. Figured ribbons are very
popular for strings, and are now sold at popu-
lar prices in the stylish widths of from two to
three inches. There are brocaded ribbons of
solid colors in good desigus OF sprays or of
blocks for 80 cents yard, while others of
lighter quality, yet all silk, are as low as rs or
30 cents. These small bonnets are so easily
made that ladies are doing their own millinery
and allowing themselves as great variety of
bonnets as they did when Fanchons were in
fashion. A bit of the brocade left over from
walking suit is the foundation OF many new
bonnets, as it will either cover the crown
smoothly, or else it is pleated to form soft
crown, or it may be twisted in with bit of
satin to cover the brim. The large fur beaver
pokes are equally easy to trim, as they require
no facing in the brim, and merely need long
plume twisted round the crown or else some
folds of the plush with which the costume is
trimmed. The newest poke bonnet has the
brim shelving downward instead of upward as
, in the Cabriolet pokes. This is very becoming
to young faces with small features, and is
even worn by elderly ladies whose gray hair is
elaborately dressed in front; but this, like all
the poke shapes should be avoided by ladies
who have large heads, or who wear large colt
fures, 40 it makes the head look out OF proper
tion with the rest of the figure by reason Of its
great size.