The Portland daily press., 1880-10-22
FRIDAY MORNING. OCT. ss.
passementeries and fringes are the trimming
of these gay dresses.

passementeries and fringes are the trimmings
OF these gay dresses.
Reception costumes of the dark-fgured vel
vets are shown with trains and with short
skirts Olive brown and bronze hues with
green tints are probably the first choice In
these dresses. They are more often combined
with satin de Lyon than with less pliable sat
ins, and the beaded trimmings are also used
here. These velvet dresses have distinctive
style with elegantly shaped hs slf-long hasqueS
with satin waisicoa is, and very little drapery,
as the fabric is too stately and unyielding to
submit gracefully to being bun shed up.
The blue flannel dresses so generally worn
during the Summer and Autumn have proved
that inexpensive dresses may be at the same
time serviceable, becoming, and indeed pictu-
rescue; of late they have rivalled the black
dresses to which many had hitherto confined
themselves, and have thus given variety to the
wardrobe For these reasons the popular
choice for Winter is heavie pure wool goods
with flannel finish, such as may be had for 81
to 81 80 var in double widths that require
only seven or eight yards for dress. The sta
pie navy blue shades prevail in these fabrics,
but there are also dark green, olive, garnet,
and seal brown shades The tannel-fnished
goods are cloths and Cheviots, the latter hav-
ing small checks and irregular threads of con-
trasting colors; besides these are many twilled
goods such as camels hair, cashmere and serge.
The en- ire dress is made of this woolen stuff;
TO introduce silk or satin as trimming detracts
from the style as well as the usefulness of the
dress, as the silk fabric does not wear as well
as the woolen goods, and in order to finish the
dress with tailor-ike neatness-in which its
style conssts-it must be simply stitched in
rows by the machine. When these dresses are
display in the shops they made in the
fashions imported from England, viz, with an
English basque with two great box pleats in
the back, and narrow short skirt on which an
overskirt is draped. When an economist
makes her own wool dress she retains the de-
sign of the peasant dres, SO popular during the
Summer with its full round skirt stitched or
tucked, an apron without back drapery, and
plain round waist with sash, or else a box
pleated blouse with belt. Sometimes instead
of a round waist a jaunty basque is
used, ana this is made quite round-of even
length, instead of being longer in front and
back than on the hips. To cut away the front
of the basque from the waist line, forming two
sharp points, is found very becoming to many
figures and takes away the plain look from sin
gle-breasted fronts. The turned.over Byron
collar must be made to roll very high and close
about the throat, and the nearly tight coat
sleeves are sewed in very high on the shoul-
ders and are buttoned and stitched at the
wrists without separate cuff For those who
like variety, and for very young ladies and
misses, the jersey waist of blue or brown wool
stocking net is bought for $3.50 or $5. To this
is per anently attached twiled serge wool
skirt of the same shade laid in large and shall
low kilt pleats. If the wearer is very slight or
very tall, two rows of kilt pleating form this
skirt. The scarf drapery that conceals the
Joining of the skirt and waist is still used, but
the newer fancy is for an overskirt of the
large shawl plaids or else of the smaller hand
kerchief patterns These overskirts have for
trimming the striped border which is woven
around the square, and are usually open down
the front, and square cornered, with the border
extending all around it. These shawl squares
are sold for 81 each, and are yard and half
square. Some ladies will utilize in this way
Scotch PLAID shawls of green and blue bars and
dark gray or brown shawls with wide borders
and fringe. The Pilgrim polonaise with its
pelerine and hood, is design easily copied in
these plain suits, and rivals the English basque
suit in numbers among the importations.
For the better dresses for church and visit
ing the full skirts are of the dark silks, which
are inexpensive now that satin de Lyon is
more stylish. Plum-color, seal brown, and
dark green are preferred to the blue shades for
these dresses, and black remains as popular as
ever. These skirts have lengthwise shirred
tucks in clusters on the front and sides, or else
they are left plain there, and draped with an
apron of smali-fgured inexpensive brocade or
OF the striped velvets that now sell 50 cheaply.
The back straight breadths of the skirt form
two great box pleats, and there is full ruche
or else border peating around the foot. The
waist is stylish roun coat il made of the bro
cade or of the striped velvet, but if the plain
silk is used for this, round waist is preferred,
and some inexpensive beaded passementerie
forms the trimming on the belt or sash, collar,
and cuffs. A plush border on the skirt and
apron and also on the waist is used if the
expense can be allowed. To make a black
silk full round skirt do duty with more than
one waist, and thus give variety, the apron is
omitted, and the shirred front used. belt
blouse of taE-colored cloth or of corduroy,
with three box peats in front and back, is
stylishly worn with such skirt for morning
toilets on the street; for the house grea er lat
itude in color is admissible for these blouses,
pale blue being the favorite though white and
ecru basket cloths are used, also lavender and
cardinal red. The black skirt may form part
of handsome street costume by having
round coat-basque of brocaded silk of mixed
Persian colors, and is especially stylish with
brocades combining old gold and black.
The surtouts so popular last season with dark
costumes are again made of cloth and brocaded
goods, and the new caprice is to trim them
with deep collar and cuffs of plush, and to
face the skirts with plush of a contrasting col
or instead of the satin or Surah worn during
the summer. Imported surtouts are not as
long as those made here, and more nearly re-
semble basques than the polonaises for which
surtouts have been considered a substitute.