Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-11-01

| hoof.
| quaint pretty dress of partly pla,i and
partly plain wool is made with very deep
Kilt pieating. over which d-apad apron Is
| n'aWn at the sides. With ShirrirgS and arranged
| IN snghtly irregular drapTied folds at the back.
Ine sleeves are close and tnree-q uarters long,
| Inc bodice Is open. heart shaped aud finished
| Win peasant handkerchief OF plata wool
| Cui1S OF the same are turned up on the sleeves
ala the pen matches these and the lower Killed
| 'ShIrl Nhlcn is OF course plain. The plain color
| should be garnet. the plaid garnet. Old goii
and biacs and the prettiest finish 60 Guns. col
hro s anu s., Os EN- Is some simple pattern In en-
| A very handsome imported dress consists of
| cashmere and velvet ia Two shades of mulberry
Ihe cu'TaSS bodice Is OF velvet. and two velvet
| is repeated in drapery, which heads the Killed
| flooDces OF cashmere upon the short sktrl. The
| sleeves are OF cashmere with two puffs of vel
| vet, one at the top and one az the elbow. both
| Diminishing as they approach the inside of the
arm. The sleeves are shsrt of the wrist and
quite close. deep linen collsr and cufrs OF
ene " Medlcl style. edged with embroidery
| tistic. "
The French Jersey costume is of bloc car
meite cloth, the Jacket fastened at tue back
| with small gold buttons the trimming fiva mar
row rows or fine gold braid. The Jacket is per
| ,ecsly lifting The sleeves are long, plain. close
10 De worn with turn down linen cuifs or long
gloves OF undreSsed ecru kid. Three SIN All poId
buttons are placed on the back OF each sIesye
Tne skirt has fiat Killed founce. rather deep
ana close oYerSktTt draped at the lett side
| The English Jersey is OF dark blue storltny-
eCte, with small round collar and cu1S Of garhet
hahnei embroidered with blue and yello WOOL
, oea6f u,aperS. also emofodered, covers the
eage OF the basque where ft unites win the
Killed skirt. All the jersey costumes i'm por5ei
lnls 1all are made with deep bell fitting under
waists OF sllk; TO which the short Killed Skirt is
attached, and over which the jersey is drawn
Ike glove. The use Of the real Jersey CPS
tune In New York, however is almost Confined
10 Misses and young ladies for school and class
wear. Ihey are too juvenile looking for mar
ried ladies'
There are some pretty features OF short COS
tunes which deserve special mention. One is
the belt OF soft, undreSSed leather to which a
pocket or silver cbatelaine watch may be at
tached. Another the sword sash or doubled
SIX knotted at the side, and with ends drawn
together and finished with taSSels With
dress OF dark blue flannel or ladies' cloth a red
or old gold sword sash may be worn, and scarf
OF the same tied around the hat, or the brim
may De faced with red. The indispensable
tHng Is that red should reappear In the toilette
ana IL should not be in the dress unless as a
0alageuSe round the bottom OF the skirt. and
TINS Will not save the necessity for red upon the
hat or bonnet
The light, broad leathern belts are very pretty
with lear brown costumes and light felt or bal-
yer hats trimmed with brown aud gold orna-
ment-dagger, great nail with enlarged head or
Key. The long gloves Of undreS5a5 Kid should
match the belt in tint. These gloves soil easily,
and are therefore very expensive. but they i'm.
part an appearance or great distinction TO
flannel or wooden costume.
HAND-KNTT WOODEN GARMENTS
in the same category with the wooden dresses
are the wooden hand knit garments OF which so
great variety or excellent designs aud quality
have been brought into The market withla The
past few years. There Is the 'Comoi nation"
underwear TO begin with, which takes the place
or vest and drawers. This is well shaped ana
II tt is higher in price than the single articles
ii is because the special design IS only m anu
Iactured in best and most durable qualities.
Three OF the union combination garments Will
easily last three years. and then be good to give
away. There Is another kind not yet imported
TO any extent into this country. and very dear
because scarce, that are knit from Shetland
yarn By Shetland women. and are very light
SOFT and elastic. They have this advantage
over the Union, which are heavy close and
urn, out not Sc soft, SpriDgy or flexible. These
shetland manufactures are the pure product OF
the sheep, and hand-mld2 Throughout neecInp
comcing. spinning, knitting, all being done oy
the makers.
The Cardigan jacket is recent improvement
upon the usual fancy vests and knitted wooden
jackets. lt is not so deep as the Cashmere Ter
Sey. ana Is straight, with a ribbed belt short
skirt, and several convenient little pockets. The
jersey Is objected to by most ladies as having
TOO much the appearance OF an underv5st, TIE
Cardigan JACKET Is useful in thousand ways
for protection tn travelling, for delicate women
In doors, for added warmth under thin cloak
or jacket; and though they cost four or five dol
lars to begin with, they are a most economical
purchase, Tor they are said to never wear out
Besides these there are a great variety OF
Jackets, vests and SpencerS. with and WITHOUT
sleeves, In hand-kniu goods, and Quantities or
long, fieecy ScarfS and three cornered coverings
for the head. For little girls there are charm
Ing hoods in two shades OF blue or red with
leggings to match, and Others in solid coiors.
such as garnet. brown or dark blue; also, Ia sets
OF similar kind.
BEADED RECEPTION DREsSEs
very distinct change is already observable
in the use Of beads in the trimming OF eleyauS
garments and costumes intended for receptions
or other occasions Of ceremony. Last year Beads
glittered everywhere and upon everything
Now they are only distinguished when cut ani
arranged in glittertDg masses. or carefully
shaded for special fabric or design.
The ordinary mixtures though dear when
bought In the shops are no longer SO desirable,
because they are copied by so many young
women who buy the mixed beads In blnca
and make their own fringe and embroidar their
own passementerie with the Shining gloouleS
The hne, intricate, and elaborate network, how
ever, is beyond them, and also the working out
Of trimmings shaded In one color, though capa-
Die OF 1redeScent reflections, and therefore there
is still scope for originality and for effect which
Is new and striking By reason OF It's magnIfi-
cence. But there are great many rich dresses
into which beading does not enter -the spleat lid
brocades, the hand embroidered satias aud the
velyetS trimmed with fur. The beaded dresses
are reduced TO class and must possess special
claims to DE noticeable Or achieve distinction.
There is decided inclination for rch fabrics
and gowns OF a brighter or more Soulber hue
than have been faShiGnabiy worn Ia che eve
ming during the past several years. The white
mania has largely disappeared, and amber,
crimson and gold have taken its place. The
splendid White silks are Drocaded, not In colorS,
but in shades which are blended with the white.
ana In outline Designs Oh Sucn Proportions as %
be most ungraceful II they were stiff or de-
tached or Independent of their surroundings;
tut they are so naturally and SO gracefully la
terwoven, so admirable In their arrangement.
that they become real study OF design which
gives fresh pleasure every time 1t is looked upon
instead OF becoming moDotonouS ana weafi-
some. Shades OF gold and bro gn are used upon
white in the production OF the Passion fiower,
and tints OF water green with pale gold in the
water lily pattern, and there are daisies and
primr0SeS blended so bew1lderingly In the FROST
ed satin surface that il is hard to tell VIII ere one
ends and the other begins, or how far each Is
lost in the shading or the ground Very often
the designs upon grounds OF pure or tinted
white are outlined With gold thread and ,Utfer-
lGjd most eXQui5ltely, so that instead OF being
obtrusive and SNOWY the gold really requires
looking for. To put bead trimmings upon such
fabrics is barbariSm Of which few la1ieS would
be guilty and even gold lace vulgariZeS them
unless the lace is real and the gold In tt very
fine.
ARTISTIC DRESS
has been very limited In Its range In this coun-
try as yet but IL has done one thing for US: it
has made simplicity fashionable, and over dress
ing, that common vice, vulgar-at least 10 the
minds of women who read and think. The foe
art OF dress is still not SO well understood but
that one who practices it makes picture which
every ore turns around TO look at; but there is
recognition OF It as an art, ana there is freedom
I0r every one who Chooses 10 avail herself OF IL.
hfnr Nf-.,1