Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-04-01
THE EVENING STAR.
TUESDAY April L, 1850.
SPRING FASHIONS.
Easter BOnnets and Outdoor Gar.
lnents.
THE VIEW ULSTER,

tFrom our Own Correspondent
NEW YORK, March 81, $780,
There Is great deal said In regard to the I'M
provement and beauty of fabrics for woman,s
dress; OF the development OF design In accord
ance with correct ideas Of art and taste, and
much of it is true. The advance in depth and
variety OF celor, the application of skill and
genius to every day needs. and above all the
education which the masses are receiving in
correct Ideas OF forms, are not only adding to
our resources and stimulating the employment
OF faculty, but they are rendering a return to
some OF the more outrageous foll1es of the past
impossible. In the meantime, however while
artisans are weaving all the glorIes OF earth,
as cl0th1ng for the human. the human is left TO
take care OF itself very largely and as yet shows
no added beauty of face or form to ut tt for its
gorgeous habilimentS.
hen ladies grow so faStidiOuS In regard to
the Cellcacy OF their surroundings and the luxury
and delicacy Of their clothing, one naturally
LOOKS for a corresponding fineneSS and dainti-
ness In the Wearer, and as general rule one Is
disappointed. The frame should fit the picture
and rice reTSa, and 1t is quite time we began 10
I'm rove the physique of men and women TO lit
tnelr Clothes; at present the clothes have the
advantage. What is the use of putting white
satin and delicate lace upon a crow. or an owl,
ora pig. or buzzard? Would tn s.r appearance
and prOpenSitieS be made all the more striking
10y comparison? Dress should always be sub,
ordinared TO the wearer-it is the woman that
lives, not the dress-apd to see respectable
burden OF fiounces and drapery and overskirts
ana plumeS and paSSementeTfe and fringe the
puffy face displaying itself in jauntiest hat. is
sight which is rather pitiful than one to excite
admiration. so also one must feel a sense of
1ncongrulty at the sight OF q narrow lower of
bones very thinly covered by yellow skin rising
out OF sea of .glittering Splendor, and one can
but think how inappropriate the casket to what
IL noldS. III is true the heart may be of gold
inside, but 1t is not the heart which the outside
world sees, nor Which requires clothing.
arvf hot tar,S,n "a
relax their efforts to give us beautiful fabrics
but 1t is highly necessary that women should
make study of the improvement of the human,
ana particularly OF their own type A little
physiology, little actual knowledge of the
conditions 1t is best to secure OF those it is
essential to avoid, may come In not only as an
element In the preservation of life but as an
important factor in its enjoyment.
SPRING BoNNETs.
Easter brings out whatever is fresh and spring
like in head gear, and to a certain number OF
persons. fashion, like the world itself is ever
new and ever young.
The new departure few years ago in MILL
merry, the introduction Of picturesque hats and
eecen.r &c bonneis seems to have exhausted
nOthlDg that Is actually novel, and much that
Is unreasonable. The gold tissues for crowns,
the SILK and gold stuffs for trimmings, the gold
lace and the long gold ornaments are the new
things, but they are not appropriate to the sea-
son. The gilt OF lace and manufactured orna-
mentation looks like tinsel on the tender SUM-
One turns with q sense eff WEAKNESS from these
SplendorS TO simple punches OF cowslfps and to
waves OF soft white lace in conjunction with
delicate chip.
The shapes are hideous in the hand; it is said
they are more becoming on the head. Whether
That Is to be understood as compliment to the
head or the bonnet have n0t been able to Disco
yer. They are not particularly new. They really
and truly look as II they had been selected from
among the ugliest that have made their ap-
a five I'M hon
many OF them, are short at the ears, and broad
the "Queen Anne" style. The turban hats are
large and full In the crown. also, and perfectly
straight and plain around the face SOFT oval
crowns OF this description are not unbecoming
for the edge is finished with border OF ruchlng,
OF lace, or of feathers, or fringe of beads or
pretty fuf1ineSs Of the hair. which must be ar
ranged to suit the style Of the hat or bonnet,
and, In fact, Is not infrequently changed, since
blonde to chestnut, or fiaxen to :. English
brown such crowns are called costume
caps" and can be purchased ready made at
from sl.15 10 50 each, the purchaser adding the
trimmings to suit herself, very little being re-
Quired. or course, their low price and cheap
ness render them very convenient and extremely
popular, for at the price ladies can have hat to
match suit for about four dollars while the
purchase OF one or the making OF one to order
would involve double or treble the expense.
The tuscan straw bOnnetS, With open ''lace'
IKE bI1m, is revived after having lain dormant
for about quarter OF a century, In the red
rage Whtch has sliced upon fashion. and Which
Is very suggestive OF the scarlet woman, Tus-
can is naturally all lined and trimmed with red.
ana It mas hardly yet been discovered how we'll
IL trims with creamy white or black lace and
daisies Charming crown bOnnets are conStruc-
TED OF foundation frame covered with tulle
and small white roses. with narrow fringe of
lill OF the valley for border These are lovely
hats for brides, and by far the prettieSt things
which have made their appearance,
OUTSIDE WRAPS.
fnc+
new bonnets OF the season, seems to have ex-
pended Itself largely upon the unDrOmtSing us
ter and the pretty designs In spring wraps. The
new ulster Is really ladies' garment, elegant,
graceful, vet useful and with Just the Sugges-
ton or color about 1t that give tone and charac-
ter. If Is composed OF soft mixed or plain cloth
in wood tones and shades; has a round hood,
which is drawn In and faced upon the inner
edge with silk or satin, and stirring at the
back of the waist which takes in the slight ful-
ness. and below which a belt is buttoned or
are gathered to form a ruffie at the wrist and
faced upon the inner side to match the hood
and this inner facing Is repeated upon a side
pocket which Is suspended by cords and tassels,
and which holds the handkerchief. All the pref
test mixtures In small Invisible checks aud
pale wood ttnts are found In the cloths of which
these ulsters are made, and the silk facing en-
ployed. also several inches deep upon the inner
fronts Is In poppy red, peacock and gensdarme
blue, tesh-colored pink and shades TO match.
The cost Is very moderate for so handsome
SdlmcIt. tlc average UtlLS only twenty dollars.
Another design which takes the place of the
ulster for young ladies is the long English coat
or Raglan This also is made In light cloths
like the spring oVercoats of gentlemen. and is
very 1aunty as well as decidedly useful. The
skirt Is open on the back and there are seams
which attach the skirt TO the body and give a
perfect fit to the double breasted front, which is
open en- fe,erse, and finished with an English
collar. There are very real and practical side
pockets with flaps, Which faSten with small
spring clasp SO that change, or even the pocket
book, is comparatively secure In them. The
small dreSsy garments take the dolman, visits,
or mantle shape; and are OF black satin de Lyon
very richly trimmed with thick lace ruching and
passementerie, or there are In light almond
tinted armure silks and silk mixed cloths. TRIM
med with double fr1ngeS. The under one In
chenille, the tint of the ground of the fabric: the
other taSseled silk fringe in the colors of the
silk mixture. These frlnges are repeated at the
neck, forming deep collar. And two clusters
or satin ribbon bows are added-one at the
throat and the other at the waist. The light
armure silks, satin finished used for the most
elegant wraps, are hardly feather weight yet
they are lined with marCelline of the shade and
trimmed with quantities of lovely silk ard Che
nile fringe. The small vislteS of black satin de
Lyon are also very handsome and effective but
they have more weight and can be utilized so
that they have not the air of exclusive freshness
and novelty.
Capes have made their appearance also In
pleated lace and fine jet frlngeS upon net. with
a S6rder OF fine Jet fringe, with very deep silk
and jet netted beading.
The jackets are In plain or mixed cloths tailor
stitched and finished. but with no contrasts In