Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-12-04


once considered mere opportunities for subur-
pan residents to see play or hear So ne music;
lately they have been elevated to the
organized with and without gentlemen Per
haps It is because the attraction of CLUBS poi
tics ana business renders men less and less
availapie as escorts, that ladies have been con-
PEELED to resort to other methods OF seeing what
Is TO oe seen and fulfilling social functions
Whatever the cause, the fact remains. Ladies
having friend visiting them invite others to
Tet ler at lunch and attend the matinee per
romance In company at such place and upon
such a date. Sometimes the lunch is given at
nome; more frequently It takes place at Del
moEtco's where the SELF. elected hostess pays
the Dill and provides the tickets for the party
10 which she acts as escort and chaperone.
Tnere are very good reasons why the Iestau-
rant Is CHOSEN. A formal lunch at home Is a
very elaborate affair, and abSorbS the energies
of modest establishment. II IS impossible TO
hurry 1t or the guests, or have IL terminate
WltAin the limits OF time while the cost is really
greater-lr wine Is excluded. as it usually is by
ladies-than at the restaurant. To the ladies
participating 1t is an all.day affair." and is con-
S'dered delightful, for those who have travelled
ana DIought home foreign habits make their
mldday breakfast Of the twelve or one O'Clock
lunch. and only reach home In time ror the
family dinner after the performance is coz
ciuded. or course there are ways OF making a
matinee lunch more or less expensive. Some
ladies supply artistic menu cards and indtyid-
ual bouquets even at restaurant, and In ad-
clifton, II not their own. a hired carriage or car
RACES Others dispense with these extras and
allow thelr friends to be driven home la their
own carriages. which may be waiting, or avail
themselves OF the ever ready hacks street cars
AID stages.
a short dress is almost universal on these oc-
caSlons, unless in the rare instances where q
COX" has been provided FIR the party and all
are " carriage, people. who would as soon taiak
OF travelling on telegraph wire as walking or
tdhlfg the street cars.
TIE FUR LINED WRAP
The round cloak of black silk, lined with fur.
has had day which seems just about drawing
to close. Doubtless it viii be retained fer a
time. and 1t will certainly be worn by ladies'
VINO have invested from fifty to one hundred
collars In one, but 1t viii cease to be popular
because It Is expensive. troublesome. and unless
possessed OF solioy good qualities easily defaced
and spoiled. Excellence In silk and fur is cost
", and the popular idea is to get things cheap.
FOlty, ffty, sixty dollars for circular cloak,
even II 1t Is lined with fur, does not seem Cheap
to the popular female mind, and is readily pur-
suaded into what it wants to believe, that a
forty or fifty dollar cloak Is just as good as any
other. In fact the sum paid is large out OF a
small income, and 1t ought not to be paid by
women who are responsible for the care and
prudence with which the money that their hus-
bands earn is spent. They realize this when
the fur comes Off upon their street dresses the
edges become rubbed and worn, and the money
spent over again in time. thought and trouble
given to its preservation IRON moths aud other
animals.
soft, warm, and rnuch more suitable wrap
is made of feather cloth, with a sofC, furry, re-
verslble side, and ii elegance OF appearance in
ms garment is still demanded, a pattern had
peter De obtained, good quality OF black satin
dc Lyon purchased. and lining OF the new
- beaver" or "sealsktn" plush. put in, which is
more recent, more fashionable, more elegant
more healthful, and probably less, certainly not
more, expensive than good fur.
EVENING DRESS
exhibits as have before intimated, some very
singular and remarkable contrasts. The most
magnificent toflettes will be worn In the same
place, at the same time, and among the same
SET as others that are plain even to affectation
indeed II plain, 1t must be to an extreme, Or it
would be merely common place-and ugliness
any thing Is better than that. 1t will occur
therefore that the same lady Will wear toilet
on ole occasion that will attract all eyes to It's
richness, and upon another occasion one entirely
destitute or trimming or ornament except per-
haps an antique, or one vivid bit of color.
TheIe is no occasion, however important,
"nen long perfectly plain dress OF rich velvet
satin. or brocade exactly moulding fine form.
Is Is not more supremely elegant than any amount
OF trimming or accessories. and If the wearer is
worthy OF her dress the result is usually the
theme OF admitting comment.
very elegant and noteworthy even Ig toilets
are made with bodice and train of white or
del1cately tinted brocade over what seems to be
a petticoat OF beaded and embroidered lace or
gauze- The skirt opens upon gauze panels at
the SECS or upon one side, and upon the lower
part OF the front, which shows narrow pleatingS
OF the gauze supplemented by rows OF beaded
fringe. The train is edged with thick ruch-
ing OF the gauze, and the bodice perhaps
trimmed by It on surplce folds. The sleeves
are composed of lengthwise pufTings OF gauze
and brocade shaped to the arm or OF the gauze
alone.
For small sat homes young ladies still wear
the brocade jacket or basque, and white silk
and gauze trimmed skirts. Doubtless there Is a
measure OF economy In this, for 1t enables some
WhCSe allowances are limited to utilize last
summers skirts or summer dress skirts whose
waists have become soiled or unfit for use. 1t
Is dress that can be worn also to the opera or
afternoon receptions, and requires no thought
for pretty jaGot of lace furnishes all that Is
required In The way OF accessory and is always
ready.
Beaded trimmings are not so much In demand
as last winter. probably because they became
so common that unless q novel idea or extraOr-
otnaIy beauty OF effect could be obtained The
result Gid lot pay for the cost. There are still
beaded SENSATIONS" but they are not obtained
by the use OF the usual fringes and passe-
menteTies, except among persons to whom even
the contents Of the shops possess the charm of
novelty.
An imported evening dress which made a
veritable sensation is OF black satin, very thick
ard very rich, and sewn all over closely with
tiny beads OF pure gold. or course the dress is
what Is called whole dress, that is, in one
piece, and It fitted the wearer, who is a remark
to perfection. Since this appeared others have
been made which had sleeves beaded In the
same way and Is part of the front OF the skirt
or laoIer. One OF these was an amber satin
seed pearls The ivory satin was further en-
riched with Duchesse lace embroidered with
seed pearls, and the amber satin with a fralSe
OF goid lace.
THE WHOLE DRESS.
There is little doubt that the whole dress will
DE the dress OF the future for women-at least
for the majority. There is an increasing revolt
against the discomfort, the folly of cutting I'D
the principal article Of clothing into so many
pieces-of burdening the hips with so many
useless f0ds and eXhaust1ng time and strength
In putting on and Off, arranging and adjusting
what ought to require a moment.
or course the whole dress will not be adopted
all at once nor universally, but the tendency is
toward such dress In the trained gown for the
evening, the short Jersey" for the street, and
the whole undergarmentS which ladies who
have tried them feel that they cannot relin-
quish without going backward In taking up
again the separate vest and drawers whose
double folds and gathers are wholly opposed to
smoothness OF outline and artistic beauty and
elegance of form: and women are to be con-
graduated that enough OF freedom has at last
been obtained to make 1t possible for those who
desire to lose the burden of clothes to do so
without attracting unpleasant attention or in
curing the charge Of eccentrIcity.
JENNY JUNE.
GLOOMY PROPHECY By VETERAN OF 1872
The veterans OF the war Of 1912 began the cele-
bratfon OF Evacuation Day at sunrise. Adjutant
j. Gould warner. the adODtpd son Of the vote.