The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1880-09-09
FOR TIE FAIR SEX.
Ladies Fafi and winter Dressei


day wear, with very long trained skirts
for full dress; the medium demi-trnin
does not appear in the fist invoices.
Very rich fabrics that give the greatest
appearance of warmth are used, such as
the polka dotted velvets, bTocaded vel
vet with large detached figures, and
plush, with cloth for palmer costumes;
the warmest colors also appear in abun-
dance, especially in the accessories that
form trimmings, though many beautiful
costumes are shown in two tones OF the
same color, especially When heliotrope
or other purples are employed. The dull
copper reds are very stylish as an illu-
minatio1 fer black; heliotrope and law
ender are also effectively used with
black. The satin employed for 5raperies
is very soft, and is called Surah satin,
though its lustrous surface requires close
weaving that conceals the twills that are
the special. feature of Surah silks. The
corsages of new dresses are made with
as few seams as possible, and are there
fore ofthe simplest shapes. The short side
forms of the back are used almost with
out exception, though some modistes still
prefer having wo side forms in the way
introduced by Worth several years ago,
Skirts of French dresses are fuller than
they have been made at any time since
short skirts were revived, though they
are not made in the classic shapes popu-
lar here that depend so entirely upon
their fullness that drapery is dispensed
with. On the contrary the first lmporta-
tions show great deal of drapery very
bouffantly arranged, with scarf sashes
that pass around the figure, and give the
fullness of paniers below the hips. In
deed, cash effects are given in many
ways, not only with the gay fabrics Of
trimmings, but with whole breadths of
the dress material that are draped quite
straight, or else doubled at the lower
en- without being cut apart, or perhaps
they form one mammoth bow on the
left side and a pointed corner on the
right. The front and side cores are
cinging, and these are still made the
objective points for trimming. For in
stance, shirring, which has now ex-
tended to heavy cloths, will cover the
while below this will be square points
Of handkerchiefs, or receding scarfs
opened over plated founces, or perhaps
series of scarfs of satin will be
shirred at intervals across the ront
gore, and pass under brocadcd side
breadths that are as flat as panels, but
which are faced with a contrasting
color Of satin, velvet or plush, that
makes itself visible without being too
conspicuous.
The Jersey jacket worn during the
summer has given suggestions Tor some
OF the new features of cloth and camel's
hair costumes. and in some suits the
Jersey webbing, like stocking-net, is
used for the clinging waists .or polo
naises of such dresses. For instance, a
navy blue costume has q polonalse
laced behind made of Jersey webbing,
fitted by a middle scam in front, and
uuderarm seams without darts. The
collar and the sash drapery are OF blue
plush lined with light yellow Surah,
while the skirt is blue cloth laid in kilt
pleats. Another costume, entirely Of
black has the Jersey polonaise of web
bing, without darts to which is at
sash of polka-dotted black satin forms
the bouffant drapery, and conceals the
seam that Joins the kilt to the polonaise.
Less conspicuous than these dresses,
which are meant only for very young
ladies and misses, Is the Jersey basque,
which is fastened in front, but is based
upon the Jersey idea OF dispensing with
useless seams, and is therefore made
with the French back that has no side
bodies, while the fronts have but one
dart, though there is often Il narrow
plastron OF a slender vest added, which
compels another seam, though conceal
ing it at the same time, and this gives
the fulluess required for the bust, which
is usually made by the second dart.
| Tnis is handsomely illustrated in black
camel's half suit that has copper red Eat-
in with black polka dots Tor trimming.
| This gay satin forms a NARROW vest not
| four inches down the front of tile black
| basque, also shirred round collar SO
deep as to nearly cover the shoulder.
A breadth of this satin is draped like a
panier sash on the edge of the long
| plain basque, which with its few seams
is made to follow every outline OF the
| figure from the thfUat down low on the
hips. The sash is shirred to the front
OF the basque, and is fastened on tho left
side under a cluster of loops of black
satin ribbon that is copper red on the
wrong side; the sash is spread out
wider across the back, and forms an i'm.
me-, Sc bow, with ends that hang almost
to the edge of the skirt. This skirt has
first silk foundation, which is faced al
| the bottom with q cameps-hair, or
which is a narrow plating of red satin
|
balayeuse of white muslin embroidered
with red. This whole silk skirt Is then
concealed by one long kilt-plaiting o
black eame'a-hair sewed on few
inches below the belt, SO that it will moi
be clumsy around the hips, as that would
spoil the fit OF the close Jersey basque
this killing stops just below where tn
satin plating borders the foundation
skirt of silk.
Quite different from these suits ar
other cloth dresses that are made gay b.
combining them with tartans or Madra
plnids of satin Sprah. The corsage is
habit basque of cloth, either olive o
seal brown, with shirred plaid Sural
passed around the neck and down eacl
ide of the front, and has most boutfan
draperies of the plaid Surah arranged j
points like handkerchiefs at the back
and held by bows of many loops of gree
satin ribbon, with red on the revers
side.
For later in the season, cloth dresse
are com bined with striped velvet c
plush, and there are velvet costumes
new and elegant designs. A prune We
vet suit Is embroidered all over wit
| polka dots of the same shade, and trim
med with shirreG Surah satin scarfs tn;
: cross the front and extend down IL
sides in panels. The bouffant draper
of the back is formed by the Surah a
ranged in sash effects, and borders
with the velvet. The waists OF SUI
suits are single-breasted coats OF Il
, velvet, with deep shirred Surah cola
q or else broad Byron collar OF the velv
z..-l-z