The Portland daily press., 1880-11-03
New York Fashions.

necessary that they be pure wool, or else they
will not be serviceable. For plain wraps the
choice lies between the serviceable diagonal
woven yet heavy cheviots. For d. essy sacques
for young ladies the coachman's drab shades
are much used, though the novelty introd uced
| by Pingat, who is the leading PAR sian design
| er of cloaks, is for basket-woven cloths COM
! bining as many colors as are found in the bou-
rette cloths worn two years ago. Seal brown
or black diagonal cloths are chosen for ser
viceable plain cloaks, while the Cheyiot
checks, irregular plaids, or mixed surfaces are
used for iaunty coats for general wear, and for
the useful ulsters that are by no means con-
fined to travelling wraps, but serve often for
shopping and instead of waterproof garments
Larger plaids are for mantles in the McGregor
style, though these are often fanciful Madras
plaids instead OF those of the Scottish tartans.
Another novelty is repped cloth like empress
cloth, with half an saeh of long warm fleece
on the inside this is used for the long rich
cloaks with plush or fur borders.
Above all else plush is the favorite trim
ming, especially for masculine-shaped Jackets
that merely require collar, cuffs and pockets.
TIE hood, which is added to many jackets,
should be arranged to button On, so that it
need not always be worn. A lining of plush
or of some striped or spotted Surah satin is
seen in most hoods. There is fancy for
single breasted jackets, and for those without
the skirt piece sewed across the hips, yet
many skirted coats with double breasted fronts
are worn. What is called the Jersey coat dis
penses with collar, cuffs and the double fronts,
and is made to fit as closely as possible; even
the pockets are without flaps, and are set un-
derneath the fronts, with a diagonal opening
bound On each edge. Rows of buttons set on
the seams are the only ornaments. These are
for very young ladies, and are shown in gray
and blue cloths for $3.50. The genuine Jer-
sey webbing, of which Jersey waists are made,
is made up into more expensive Jackets for
autumn wear, but there is.na attempt to give
the close Jersey effect to'these garments They
are simply English double breasted jackets
fsdark blue, brown black or plum color, and
are piped on the edges with satin of the same
shade Large pearl or metal buttons are their
only trimming. Well made jackets of Che
viot cloths with plush cloths and collars cost
from S12 to $25 each. These are of the stylish
medium length, not long enough to conceal
the drapery of short costumes, nor so
short as to look scanty in the pres
ence of longer garments. One of the
newest caprices is that af adding short
peleriHe cape to jackets. To give stylish eff
feet this cape must be cut off straight across
the .back-rnot roubded-and must cling closely
to the shoulders, reaching just below the arm
holes. This is shown on the Charlotte Corday
coats that fit like sacques, and also on the long
loose cloaks with full gathered sleeves. Man
tie shapes or those with Dolman effects are
considered more stylish but less youthful than
the jaunty coats, and are mostly chosen by
older ladies. There is a fancy, however, for
n ilitary-looking mantles with double capes in
front for young ladies, and even for school
girls. Some of these are trimmed with gilt or
silver BRAID a1d are made of blue cloth, but !
black braid, rows of stitching, or else the |
Havelock pleatings are better trimmings. |
The ronk's cloaks are also unique garments |
in favor with young ladies. They are loose |
and long, with gathered sleeves and a gath |
cred hood. and sometimes little capes are |
added
In place of the belted Ulster that was so gen. |
orally unbecoming there are now various |
H.
glish Cheviot cloths of quiet colors. The En- |
glish driving cloak is an excellent "over-all'' |
wrap of this kind; it has circular back fitted |
and shaped by seams, square sleeves in loose
front, and a pointed hood. This is made of |
cleth OF mixed colors, with brocaded lining
for the hood, and costs $35. Others of much !
less expensive cloths are shown with double |
breasted fronts cut off across the hips, and |
heightened like polonaise. Another style |
has a cape that may be buttoned up to form a |
hood while still anothor hoe y,Io
the back, and double capes while most pic- |
turesque of all is the monks Ulster. with a |
cowl, cape and rope-like cords and tassels
The stately long cloaks of brocades, satin de |
Lyon, Sicilenne, velvet and plush are chosen |
for dressy wraps, and rival the richest fur
Dolmans in their costliness. Black is the fay-
orite color for these garments, with satin or |
plush Innings ofsred, ,od gold, ecru, or lavender |
shades The elaborate passementeries that |
are banished from cloth wraps are seen here |
in profusion, and these, with the heavy lin |
ings make the great cloaks something formid |
able in weight. The plain satin de Lyon OF
these cloaks is often shirred heavily down the |
middle of the back, or else around the neck
and the full sleeves. The brocaded yeiyets or
the figured satins are of course kept smooth
and plain, and it is in these garments that the
large figured brocades are found most effective:
feather patterns, tulips, liliesiof natural size,
are preferred to the close matelasse figures and
Persian designs formerly used. When wool
goods are used for such cloaks, the India cam
els hair is preferred, as it is clingng and pill
able, while for mixtures are the repped Sicili-
ennes. Occasionally plush cloak is shown
in brown or gray mottled shades; but black
plush does not rival velvet in beuty. and. like
satin, it is used to best effect in small GUAM
titles for borders, collars and cuffs. For lus-
tro1s garments the heavy satin Surah (mer-
veilleux) or else satin de Lyon is preferred to |
plain satin. The beaded trimmings rival
plush borders in popularity, and have even
made their appearance on seal skin cloaks,
though they seem incongruous, as they con-
ceal the beauty of the deep pile of the fur.
and make the weight too great for comfort
A small soft muff in bag shape is made to
match many of the richest cloaks
The soft satins called satin meryelleux are
shown at S1.75 yard upward, with quaint
combinations of color in the brocaded designs.
These are to be made up with wool goods, or
else with the changeable satin de LYON that
has colors in harmony with the brocade, and
costs $2 yard. Plain satin de Lyon at 1.5O
yard is preferred to silk at that price for
combinations with the smallfgured Persian
brocades. and for more expensive goods the
new satin Alecnon, thickly twilled Suran, is
chosen at 81 yard. The brocaded satin de
Lyon may be found in pure black, and in
pretty designs, at $1.75 yard, though more
stylish large detached figures bring the ex-
pense to So or $4. When colors are used the
preference is for those of one shade rather
than the mixed colors. Some patterns in
bronze, green, or blue shades at So will make
most effectively in combination with plain
satin de Lyon or velvet. An econom ical way
of undermining a black dress with worn
BASQUE is to use the Stripad valvat and satin |