The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1880-05-06
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Fashions of the Day.

have appeared in the fashions this sea-
eon are CHIEFLY in the fabrics. There
is little change in the making up OF
dresses. We still have skirts perfectly
clinging in form and draped behind,
short or trained for the evening; the
combination costume in its various
forms, newest OF which is the coat
bodice different from the skirt, and the
severely plain cloth walking dress in
two or three pieces.
Undoubtedly the surtout is the lead
ing fashion among novelties. This is a
pain straight polonaise, with the skirt
open always in front nearly to the waist
generally at the back also, and fire.
quently on the sides as well. The ma
terials of which it is made are various,
cloth, velvet, camel's hair, brocade or
damasse, while the novelty goods in
Oriental mixtures are useful surtouts
for wear with any skirt. The best are
tailor-made, and fit like gentleman
frock-coat and are finished in the same
manner. Handsome surtouts are lined
throughout with coored silk, red or
old gold being the shades usually Sc
lected. The beauty OF the garment de-
pends almost entirely upon its perfect
hit, and great care should be taken, both
in cutting it out and sewing, to have the
threads run straight and to avoid
stretching the seams. When tailor
cuts any garment he lays the cloth
smoothly upon long table, for which
piano top is very good substitute.
and marks it out with chalk. Then il
Is cut and basted with the greatest ex-
actness and stitched as carefully, and
this is the secret of the perfect set
which characterizes first-class tailor
work. Many dressmakels positively
refuse TO ut garments Tor others to sew.
-t" ou make the dress yourself" said
such one, land you sew it crooked; /;
then you blame me-"
Much also depends on the manner in
which dress is put on. The inside belt,
which keeps the back in place and re-
lleVes the seams of strain, is also of vital
importance. The best dressmakers add
to this a second inside belt, set in under
the arms, and about three inches wide.
furnished with hooks and eyes set close
together. Sleeves are made very tight,
and the wearer of a fashionable bodice
is expected to put on her bonnet before
she dons her Dress waist. 1t would be
impossible to bend the arm in these
sIeeXes were it not that slight fullness
is allowed on the under part lust at the
elbow. Sleeves for bail dresses are a
tiny puff. For afternoon wear they are
elooW long, while the favorite length
TOR all occasions is three-quarters, long
wl1Stcd gloves being worn with them
on the street.
The long-waisted, tight fitting jacket,
with deep basque, is very favorjte
model for spring dresses. 1t is fire.
quently made of different material
from tha skirt-velvet, brocaded silk,
Turkish cashmere, wool and silk bro.
cade or any. fancy mat rial; the skirt
may be plain or striped. 1t is well to
trim the skirt with bias bands or flut-
lhgs, panels or scarf-draperies of the
same fabric as the bodice.
There has never been a time when il
was so easy to remodel old dresses to
good advantage. The variety of new
fabrics is infinite, and something may
be found to combine with everything.
The novelty goods-by which we mean
all the army of broche and figured
goods-furnish trimming for all ma.
terials and shades. These are used in
small or large quantities; whole sur
touts are simply as vests pipings, col
lar and cuffs. Last years buntings are re.
made, with bands of the novelty goods
for trimmings, ana old silk or cashmere
dresses are turned into the skirt, sur
tout of novelty goods being worn with
them. Striped silks, which are slightly
passe, are combined with satins to
match the pervadip g,Sint in the silk. A
pretty model has Goat basque of satin,
The front OF the skirt of shirred silk,
with SIDE gor6s of satin, while the back
breadths are of silk and the foot trim
ming IS silk plated flounce, headed
with satin. Another, where more ,ilk
was available, had the bodice of sin
with long revers collar and cuffs OF
satin. Long narrow panels of satin were
set on each side of the trout breadth and
vandyked band of satin headed a box.
plated flounce of silk on the skirt.
Some OF the new washing materials,
so-called, are very handsome. Such are
the Scotch zephyr cloths, figured
mummy cloths. the Grape finished Yeddo
goods and the oil calicoes, which last
are made up in combination with fine
woolens.
The imported gingham suits are the
prettiest OF all wash dresses. A gay
fancy is that of trimming light blue and
White checked gingham with bands anC
pointed tongues of dark claret-coloreo
gingham. Such dress is further deco
rated bya cluster of hand painted flow
ers in the point of the neckerchief which
is tied sailor shion. Something UNIQUE
in the color and in the ordinations is
aimed a. in these pretty cottons. Thus
ciC vi HtilOtlOpe purple las pale cream
colored fa"ings, while another of clarel
red has plaitings of chintz figures ON a
white ground, very much like the IA
vorite pattel ms of foulard. 4
Madras ginghams are sod in auanti-
ties. The trimmings are coarse torchon
CT Russian lace or Hamburg edges, and
a favorite method of making them is
with round skirt, with flounce at the
bottom, or draped overskirt and Jacket
bodice.
In dark colored percales also draped
skirt is worn over short skirt, with a
bodice gathered round the waist and
finished by plated basque.
Coat basques are very fashionable, so
also is the skirted or marquise basque,
which has the skirt set on a little below
the waist line. These, however, are
used chiefly for handsome dresses.
The Russian blouse waist is very
fashionable in Europe and has made its
appearance here. These waists are
SHAPED like the chemise Russo worn last
season with no seams but those under |
the arms and on the shoulders, and long
enough to cover the hips. Their full
ness, however, is laid in single box
pleat down The middle of the back and |
one down each front; when he button |
hole hem of e front is also laid in a |
broad box-plait this gives the appear
ance OF three plaits in front. A wide |
belt of the cloth is then added. The |
edges Of this blouse are stitched by |
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