The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-06-10
New York Fashions.
lHarper'S Bazar.l


Leaders of fashion with their craving for va
riety are already protesting against the use of
figured fabrics to such an extent that Paris
dressmakers send to the modistes here dresses
of plain surface and solid color. This is espec-
tally noted in the use of sewing silk grenadines
in preference to brocaded ones, and of plain
Surah silk instead of figured silk, also in the
attempt to revive taffeta, which is always
plain and lustrous The most elegant black
dresses this season are of the plain sewing-silk
grenadines, trimmed deliberately with black
lace in which gilt threads are thickly woven,
or else with open trimmings entirely of Jet, or
perhaps with fine embroidery done on grena-
dine for flounces and panels. Spanish laces
over colors, especially red or yellow, are also
used for trimming black grenadines. The
square-meshed canvas grenadine is liked for
parts of dresses that are completed by Surah,
or, if figures are not objected to, by very rich
brocaded grenadines that have smooth ground
OF satin lustre, with large open-worked de-
tached figures. The plain canvas grenadine
in such combinations is used for three or four
narrow pleated frills at the foot, and these are
sewed directly on the black silk skirt used for
the foundation. There are then pyramids of
such pleatings up each side, or else only up the
front. Folded pleatings of the plain grenadine
are then laid like diagonal scarf across the
front and sides; above this is the apron Of bro
cade, and the hooped drapery of the back is al
SO brocade. Rows of jetted fringe laid on
knife-pleatings that pass up the sides or the
front add to the rich effect. Another caprice
is that of lining the waists of black grenadine
dresses with red or yellow silk, and omitting
it in the skirt. This gives q touch of color
and makes the difference between waists and
skirts that is now so popular. A very narrow
pleating of red Surah should be set under the
lowest row of black pleating around the skirt
of such dresses, the sash belt may also be lined
with red, and there may be one or two large
rosettes of black with gay lining set ON the
sides.
FoULARD DRESSES.
For foulard dresses some of the Frenchiest
toilettes are of mixed black and white, as black
with white polka dots, or else white grounds
with black dots. Worth is said to take especi-
al pleasure in these combinations, and often
introduces red, blue, or Spanish yellow to give
them glow of color. For entirely black and
white dresses handkerchiefs of foulard are
made up and trimmed with black lace in fern
leaf pattern, slightly gathered upon white
point d'esprit lace of the same width, but
which is not gathered Creamy white Langue-
foulard that has cream white dots. There are
four deep hounces covering the back breadths
from the waist to the foot, each edged with the
lace. Two f1ounces extend all the way around
the skirt, and the upper part of the front has
a short apron edged with a deep fiounce and
lace. The basque is plain and finished with
lace. White foulard spotted with black is
used for shirred back and apron overskirt
and trimmed with black lace: below this is a
black Surah skirt covered with pleatings that
have bands of red Surah laid upon them, and
are edged with lace. Thus it will be seen that
Notwithstanding the prevalence of gay and
high colors, great many black dresses are
made at the best houses. Among these is q
wool dress for Newport, of black rough camel's
hair with box-pleated skirt, and between
each pleat red Surah is stitched down in bands
The waist is black Jersey laced with red and
the sash is red Surah. For cool days is straight
loose sack with square hood worn quite
open to show the red Surah lining. A Yacht
ing blouse for such dress would be also of red
Surah with a sailor collar. There are also sty-
lish black dresses of gros grain or of Surah,
trimmed with black satin that is nearly COW
cred with white polkat dots. The turned-over
collar is of the dotted satin, and there are two
bias pieces laid in easy pleats down each side
of the front from the neck to the waist line,
and thence each falls below loosely in a point
Folds are laid across the edge of the front of
the basque, and the longer back has square
folds in pocket shape for ornament Panels of
the dotted satin then trim the skirt
The newest matinee sacques are cut in
pretty shape, with French back fitted to the
figure, and with loose front held in place by
satin ribbon, which is sewed in the under-arm
seam and tied in front at the waist line. The
French back formerly so much used, and to
which we are probably tending, has but two
forms, and these are separated by the middle
seam. III straight Sacque front is too full for
the figure even when belted, a seam like dart
can be taken up under the arm. Such matt
nees are very cool and handsome when made
of Surah lined throughout with very thin lin
ing silk. A black Surah matinee made in
this way is trimmed with three box-pleated
frills, each edged with white footing an inch
wide. Tiny dots like those in point d'esprit
lace are seen in the new footing, and are quite
effective. Breton lace is used for trimming
colored Surah matinees.
White muslin sacques for wearing with col
ored silk. skirts are always liked by ladies of
conservative tastes, and are now very hand
some when trimmed with the open-worked
embroidery that is done in heavy patterns ON
open squares like the meshes of lace, or on a
groundwork like hem-stitching.
gingham-like borders and cost only 35 cents
when quantity made up with pointed ends.
Three-cornered pieces of India null, dotted
with tiny specks of black, blue or red, are
worn in kerchief shape close around the neck
They have a wide hem, and cost three shil-
lings. They are cool and pretty for morning
wear with black dresses, and are not quite SO
dressy as those OF pure white India null with
hem-stitched hem or lace. st
The embroidered white muslin fichus are
very sheer and becoming, and sold as low as
81 when very simply needle-worked.
The newest black lace fichus, large enough
for either house or street, have Spanish lace
borders, with the top edge to turn over, but all
the ground is covered with polka dots, or else
large ball figures of satin.