Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-09-01
THE EVENING STAR,
GEDNESDAY. September L, ISS
NEW lORK FASHIONS.

ooeu ATiuamings. &cs. &C.. &c.
IRON our own Correspondent
NEW YORK, August s., 1880.
Nearly all the changes that take place in fash
ion are minute, ard hardly 70 be noticed at the
time, or Individually: but taken In the sgcre-
gate, and massed after little in costume OF
what is called the Z" latest style" the r,,suit IS
something entirely different from that which
we have been accustomed to see. great
many OF these little changes have been going
on lately, and though the steps are gradual VET
IL looks very much as Ii they were taking US 10
snort. 1uny. eNpanse OF costume. instead OF
The long, drawn-out sweetness and thinness we
gave been getting used 10 for the past several
years. Perhaps this Is the natural result OF the
lD1cduction OF the short costume. Fashion
Hhl Lot tolerate for long short, straight skirt;
mere Is no chance for wrinkles or diversity In
II. Ii viii do FOR a mountain rarnbie or lake
excursion. but is out OF place. or At least
thought 10 DC so. In the city. and especially IN
toilette. ~ " III"
Last winter we applauded everyday did the
snort. pain skirts OF velvet and salln. TINS
Nt1tSr these same skirts VIII De covered win
1luItltcdinouS little LOUNGES. not fail flat as
10, sGey have teen recently, but gathered or nnely
hhiie- peSted and then pressed only half Nav,
tarIhE tlie lower part 10 stand out OF turn u
WIN a little Irregular appearance OF fuilneSs
"hith Is very pretty and graceful Plain fab-ic;
nay gi!th way Largely 10 figures long straight
Letrto 10 snort ful and pulled ones: plain vests
- siiilng and p!aStroUs. and the close cut
u4steI. II Is hrtatencd, will be replaced by the
T Tae co st ana ne lowing sleeve. All these do
Eot as sel assume the proportions that Some of
- ua! remainder; but fashion. as befo~a re-
tnaihtG, Is never altogether Revolutionary
~, nalgsS come by degrees but Inevitably tead 10
We enlargement OF any wei defined ties. ana
IltTe IS nothing 10 prevent the growth IN size
1lO folundiIy Until we find ourselves swinCiE,r
doai saiah % steel. multiplied in1eiiuitely
against every object with which we come IN cay
taSt. as the women did OF TWENTY-FIVE wears arro
T.. frc9ress? Oh; no Progress viii not prevent
II. Inele Is 40 folly that men and women have
man
gulty OF again. In the meantime there Is
nothing TO be alarmed about. We are ali right
so Jar. we have the short dress. and at least
during the past summer and probably during
The coming winter We shall have had the CON-
fort OF II unembarraSSed with dress eXfenders
or machinery OF any Kind. Certainly this is too
Good TO last. Ii we could live in this way With
out any trouble upon earth, We should not want
10 60 10 heaven. For what were dreS5-makers
Invented but 10 change the fashion OF dress
before 1t Is half worn out, SO that a new one
would be averted:
The Important new fact at present is the rull or
lloWlLg sleeve. This always means expanding
sSiifs The tull bodices and the pieces which are
now put on them are also SigniieantTney belong
TO The Tull skirt ami "leg OF mutton" era. Ia
TACT the only chance that exists Is la the multi
pjlclty OF forms and designs Which make ft pos
hlple Tor modest women or quiet tastes 20 Sip
along III styles CT their own choosing without
ntlhg distinguished by eccentr1city cr afTecta-
tiCn.
The mixing up Of The Georgian and She Vic
toItar, and The queen Anne and other epochs,
is the funniest thing about the fashions OF the
present day. or the display OF a striking hts
tofltai feature. Ike the Stlt-wire1 lace collar
which is associated with pointed stomachers
alQ thick broCadcS, ii con junction with one OF
The soft, creamy, indeseri0abiy draped conyen-
uonaI dresses which are really marvel OF
modern millinery art.
SUMNER WEDDINGS
AS yet We have not got back to starch. We
shall in tine. out tor the present we may stu
reVei Ia soft null and wool and lace and silks
tint
all sorts CT lovely shapes with the least possible
bandlng-and the less the better. The summer
mas teen signaiized by larger number OF fash
ioDabie weddings than is usual at this season
ana these. many OF which have taken place at
Newport or In country houses, have afforded an
olpoItIniiy fof the display OF an extraordinary
humber OF lovely light toiettes, In white India
muslin and aceS, soft ivory Surah and pale yellow
SIX InuslinS, combined With silk or satin OF the
same WoLdertul sunset tint A dress or this
description, trimmed with opaline bead fringe
ara languedoc lace, Vas a miracle OF pale gold
and 1rridescent color.
The pale oreiine mixture is the latest form OF
what is technically called Jet" used in en-
oTodefy upon white lace, and is exceedingly
eTectNe. especially In sunlight or gaSlight
THIS delicate fabric looks as Il illuminated by
myrfads OF real diamond brilliants for only
these, one would Imagine, could reflect 50 much
color.
The Bretonne and Languedoc are still The
faNolite trimming laces, but they are much
more nlely plated than formerly, and some
times IN rows two or three deep. The edges
IKE those or other ruffIes, whether pleated or
gathered, ale left Loose, and In mass present an
iECescrfhahly charming appearance, filiny and
ioamy IKE the spray OF Niagara. and when
teckeG win beaded color the correspondence
may be carried still further.
New saShts OF double surah are odd and
quaint. They are made OF the doubled Silk
gathered at the ends and finished with long
spikes. They are not long, a10 are simply
hhotItd at the side Ike sword sash. For
CHILDREN the sword sashes are preferred. They
nave Igtd ends aid are tied In a Oow. One
~ 10 ~ trr1anr
many weddings, consists OF dress OF SOFT
creamy white silk, tw1lled Corah usually with
req sash, stockings and hat. Or trimming upon
the hat. Black, red. and gold, with white. are
used in the same way. Many soft silk figured
costumes are made up IS sort OF polonaiSe
over solid silk rutlied underskirt- When the
ground is cream and there is red in the figure,
tie CDderskfrt VIII he red; when yellow, yell
low, and SO on. OF course the yellow Is repeat
ed IN the trimming OF The hat and other parts OF
the toilette.
a beautiful dress worn at a wedding was OF
ivory surah, with delicate flush OF pink and
gold la the ngure. The sides were trimmed
satin, and covered with lovely embroidery OF
white jet upon lace, with rringes Of the jet.
The sleeves were OF satin, covered With the
same itch ornaments.
ARTISTIC DRESSES.
It is quite decataU1e question how far the
American taste IL dress VIII be affected by the
eStheIic mania Which Is prevalent In England.
E5thetic dress in England is largely confined TO
artists ard lfterateurS, a sort OF people or whom
one TeaGS about good deal IN the newspapers.
because they form d sort OF society to which
journalists have access, OF which, indeed they
form part, but they have little TO DO with May
Fair, no more. not SO much as che Bohemia 6e-
ment Of New York has TO do with the ASrOrS
AID the Liyingstones, and the fashionable wo-
men OF New York have never faItered in their
allegiance TO Worth and his Intricate drapery
any more than their brothers and husbands to
The swell" taIlOrS OF Bond street in London.
1t is rue we have had glimpSeS OF eSthetic
DRESS but ii was not lii strict society" circles,
out on tie brotherhood, where are TO be found
wives OF artists. poets, editors, authors by pro-
fesoion; In racT, professional people, which it Is
beginning to be We'll understood, While they
constitute society OF their own, are not so
c1ety.'
ESthetic dress laborS under the difficulty at
present OF having no professional opponents.
Ideas In regard 10 il are dim and vague and
there is ro one 10 formulate them or give them
lii Iinctness. one can go into the furnishing
stores ard see thousands OF dresses. hut hot one
that is not commonplace and characterless.
great success might be made by somebody who
Instead OF following suit {no pun intended or
toleraIed), would make a specially OF what
others have not got. 4 few months ago a BoS-
ton man came 10 New York and started speci-
atty store ia one OF the little narrow hall ways
that reIt es stores [and costly ones, too) on the
UPPER part OF Broadway. His stock was limited
to hall a dozen different kinds Of decorative
articles, all OF them OF a refined and artistic
character and most OF them decided novelties,
which cnuid not DE cleaDly COpipl. He has