The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1880-06-12
Ghinos abroad.
IN THE DESERT OF SAHARA.


Not n DesoIate Plain, Hut Cultivated |
Country, Fruitful Rs the Garden of
Eden-ArRb Manners and Arab Faith. |
A correspondent Of the Chicago Times
sends the following interesting letter, dated |
Oasis Of Taflet, in the Sahara AN Of
ones preconeeiyed ideas vanish before the !
facts Of experience. The Sahara is not !
desolate plain Of moving sand, with no
signs Of vegetation, but a cultivated coun-
try, fruitful as the garden Of Eden. Like
our "great American desert, il has been
greatly belied. III Sahr, as the Arabs
pronounce it, is indeed vast archipelago
of oases, offering an animated group Of
towns and villages. A large belt Of fruit
trees surrounds each Of these villages, and
the palm, the fig, the date, apricots, pome-
granates and vines abound in the utmost
profusion. Ascending the Atlas noun
tains by gradual slope to the region of
high table-ands, VIC come to the land Of
the MoEabiles, or Ben Mozah, aud then
comes gradual descent for 300 miles 10
the vast stretch of treeless territory known
as the great desert. The rivers have an
inclination Of one foot in every 400.
Many Of the streams are dry, except after
rains, when they deluge the country.
Gunshots are fired as soon as the torrents
appear; oil objects are removed, and soon,
with terrible noise, the food rolls on.
The Saharian city stands as if by magic
on the banks Of the waters which rise to
the tuft of the palm trees, but few days
only elnpse ere all disappears, leaving the
district rich and fruitful. The Inhabitants
are not migratory people, and, unlike
the tont-dwellers Of the northern slope,
live in substantial houses with thatched
roofs and ceiling Of cane laid upon oist of
alive wood These houses generally con-
sist Of one room, and have no furniture
except mats on the floor and upon the
walls for three or four feet high. Beds
are sometimes found, but no one thinks
of sleeping on them. The walls are white.
washed and inscribed with verses from
the Koran The inhabitants are made up
ofgenuinc Arabs and Berbers, or Kaybles,
as the French call them. Jews are found
in every oasis, and are very prosperous
aud influential, doing much Of the trading
and making up of the great caravans.
These merchants frequently dress in very
gaudy aud fantastic style, with gorgeous
turban and sleeves Of different eolors, one
being, perhaps, green and one red, and
the skirt a bright yellow. They are not
allowed to wear chekia, or red woolen cap,
but may wear a black cap, and can only
wear black slippers, which they must re.
move whenever they step outside the ghet.
to, and must step aside to the left when
they meet Moslem, and are not allowed
to ride horse. The men are handsome,
aud the women uncommonly pretty and
do not cover their faces; neither do the
kayble women, as is the custom of other
women Of the Sahara. Among the Kay
bles OF the mountain region a passport, or
annaya, from sheik or marabout brings
protection and hospitality. The annaya
is sometimes a belt, sometimes a stick. A
stranger can travel anywhere and meet
with a cordial welcome. This is some.
thing like a passport, is gratuitous, and
not yised The rule is to lodge the stran-
ger for three days, and they do this with a
kindness and care that is rarely found ia
country where payment is expected. The
Berber is not as hospitable as the Arab,
but my companion, Ben Yusef, being a
descendant of the prophet, aud being
provided with an annaya, We found no
lack Of that barbaric virtue anywhere.
The maxim that Fingers were made before
forks must have originated with the Mos.
lens, as that article is unknown among
them. On one occasion, when dining with
a distinguished sheik, he asked mo if |
had ever eaten with my hands before.
"fak foodna ALA" God have pity. ex
claimed one Of the guests, "dont the Chris
tian dogs eat with their hands?" "No," t"
replied Ben Yusef, "when was in Italy
| ate with fork" "God be gracious 10
my father" returned he; sour master Mo.
hammed ate with his right hand" Our
host, in order to atone for this seeming
rudeness, called to an attendant and gave
him juicy piece o meat in his fingers TO
take to me as a mark Of his friendship.
After dinner we invariably had coffee aud
q prayer.
Arriving at the first oasis, Fizig, which
is some ten or twelve miles 10 circumfer-
ence and contains population of 10000
we found the celebrated Hammam, or hot
springs, so famous for the cure of syphilit.
ic complaints so prevalent in this country;
here We entered into the negotiations Of
the purchase of camel, and succeeded in
making an exchange Of one Of our donkeys
for specimen Of this interesting aud use.
iul animal, giving difference Of fifty met.
kals or about twenty dollars. Joining a
number Of Moorish and Jewish traders
We began our caravan life, our camel tray.
cling with a@ong swinging gait, neither
rack, trot, nor canter, like nothing have
ever seen before. The joltiug motion AZ
irst was very uncomfortable, but after n
while became rather agreeble than other
wise. Ben iusef insists that we must
ride lady fashion, that being the style
among the Arabs. The capel 10 strength,
docility and indeiatigable patience Is ia.
valuable; goes seven or eight days without
water, travels thirty miles a day, carries
six or seven hundred pounds, aud subsists
upon quart Of beans or barley or few
balls OF -four day. We made the Jour.
ney from Fizig to kuetsa in three days.
This oasis has population Of 5000, and
is the seat Of considerable trade 10 lead
aud antimony, several mines Of these min
erals being found in the vicinity. Con
tinuing our journey, we reached the pleas
aut oasis and village of Taiilet, our present
stopping place. Between Keutsa aud
lladju is mountain exactly like church;
10 fact, it bears a strong resemblance to
the typical Gothic cathedral. When not
entertained by the inhabitants we set our
tent aud spread our blankets on a dry
bank Of earth, perhaps covered With tow,
ers, prepare our simple repast Of barley,
coarsoly ground aud carried ia leathern
skins, which, mixed with olive oil aud salt,
or made into kind Of mush called kou
kussu, is quite palatablc when the appetite
Is sharpened with hunger Soon after
daybreak we are ready to "fold our tent,
like the Arabs, and as silently steal away"
The Arab tent is merely large square
piece Of caInel's hair cloth, suspended