New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1880-07-04
THE FASHIONS.
COSTUMES FOR MIDSUMMER.

For cool mountain retreats or ocean brcezes,
tho new ulster SURPRISES all other garments Of that
shape The soft, Atwood cloth is either In pla dark
colors such livery grey or Cheviot mesnge mixtures
and sometimes with hair stripe. The haif-doube
breasted front has small collar, and hood Is at
tached having q lining Of red surah silk. The back
IS shirred In i've six both above and below the
waist and has q belt meeting In the back from
the seam under the arms that buttons beneath
pIped tabs. Roomy, useful pockets complete
the comfort Of this wrap. ornamented WIN
sham buttonholes and buttons More costly wraps
in the shape of listers surouts reGlngotes made OF
pongee are shown. The real India pougee is easily
and therefore tho end is really less
ave than materials that suffer from atmospheric
changes and the soil OF travel Other
still lighter materials for travelling dresses
are Chuddah CLOTH Abbess cloth. serum cloth which is
japanese batiste, and fine flannel finished materials in
delicate tlnts. All duh. unhappy travelling suits are
abandoned The luxury Of drawingroom cars and
steamboat palaces admits OF charming wraps and
dresses, such as one would wear on city streets
handsome ulster, OF many Others. Is made OF fne
amond-col0r Chuddah cloth, faced and piped with
trawberry-red surah silk The hood is made full by
narrow concealed silk tape, in which Is run an elastic
about inch from the edge and this forms ruilie
An old fashioned retculo matches the hood
in the facing and rufae, and hangs at
the eide by two silken cords. Similar
cords also hold the shrred back In place OF belt
There ia little breast pocket and one inside the skirt
for the pocketbOok. checks, etc. the coats ragans,
redingotes and haf-itting basques are all tailor
finished IN light cloth without ornamental
ton excepting that OF handsome buttons.
Fine uutwilled French bunun2s take on
Grape finish. somewhat resembling NOME coth DARK
blue is abandoned for gendarme blue, olive and all the
new colors OF the present The dark blue bunt
ings popular for their security and those lett
from last year are rejuyenatcd with some OF tde
pretty brocade fabrics 10 silk or satin.
The bonnets and hats with these dresses are
brilliant with fruit and flowers, and graceful with nod
ding pumes Rough straw artistic looking hats In gypsy
shape are trimmed with several long ostrich puine@ or
scarfs OF soft heavy India muslin, aud long Topped bows
mingled lace aud muslin. Others have graceful scarfs
OF delcately tinted white surah elk held In place by
a cluster of crushed red peoples. Fancy straws for
mat ching costumes resemble chene effects In shaded
coors these may be several shades OF blue straw del
icatey blended green or again the gayest OF
Persian Scarfs OF eXqulsitey embroidered Jap
silk twned about the crowns Of hats and less
costly scars of coored pOnge Foulard embrold
cred in cut silk embroidery Some of the imported hats
show blue and red crushed peoples mingled with guam
titles of old gold colored lace. Fashion Is no longer
arbitrary There is longer the aggravang need to
match shades and waste valuable time III sometimes
vain searches for available trimmings as to color or
teriaI Everything that can be used on IA bonnet
fashionable without regard to color The most extra
ordinary arrangements are seem such strawberry
red or garnet silk satin with PINK roses rep0sing
amicably on Isabelle yellow straw. The gay
plunage Of Brazilian parrots and parroquets is sim
ulated IN clusters and bands panache Of green and
yellow feathers while the gold cOlOrcd straw bonnet has
lining Of shirred red satin. BIT there other hats
of creamy chp or shining straw gimp that
gicams delicately beneath snow dlift of
lace and muslin and curling ostrich tips, the
lining Of palest yellow. blue or heliotrope The
passion for red extends TO wells as well rs umbrellas
and parasos. Pony and ourrant cOors are cOuspcu
GUS In green's olive and oak are the most desired.
The variety in cOlOrs Is enormous. In a collection OF
plain fabrics seveny-two shades reckoued among
these all of gray. almond biscuit violet, mauve
and heliorope extremely popular. The prevalence
of yellow in every imaginable shade has already been
commented upon
Some exquisite French costumes recently opened are
marked down from $50 TO S25 in consequence of the
seasons being precptated by the extreme heat These
dresses show two decided contrasts In each. A
foundation intended for the skirt, Is OF
very fine cream.colored silk pongee of unmis-
taxable Chinese manufacture. The basque.
sleeves founce and scarf draperies OF the thin.
cool and lustrous Corah Inda silk having delicate blue
ground covered with brown and gold palms and grace
full arabesques. The founce and several yarts Of
creamy Breton lace are Killed in readiness for
use Another of these exquisiiely harmonious
costumes has ground OF plain gendarme
bue surah twIed silk. accompanied by the
combinations of the creamcOlored pongoe ana silvery
green Coral, or dead bay color enlivened with coral
pink. In these charming costumes the artistic ELECTS
arc carefully observed Tie positive color Is less than
tie other therefore that there shall be no lack Of har
nony the designer sends nineteen twenty yards Of
inc SKIRT which of the plain material, and not
than nine or ten yards OF the other. In THIS
way strong contrast with perfect harmony, IS
produced The model shows a rather long bGsque III
shape and fastened with buttons gistenng with smu-
lated gems This is edged with kniieplcated louLce.
headed by the skirt material laid Ipch-widc band
of narrow tucks. Ch- bottom OF the skirt. winch il
cream color, is finished with n kDi;e plcatcd
aonnce of the darker Fabric, surmounted by a
Vide tUcl ed baud Of the crcanl-coIor above this
shirred putting hall yard Wide the same fabric, which
IA headed by putting OF the DARKER material
An apron Oyers II attached To The skirt band, and Is
crossed ddeoually over the front By scarfdTarcrY OF
The darker silk. This IL caught together on one side by
n knot of RIBBON. IL then arranged at the back WIN the
drapery also Of the ereamcoior, snd fans low be-
hind. In other models cords OF c2ntr"s1ng
color used for draping the sleeny folds more
gracefully than sim sewrd bands ohd Is again SET III
cordOns with innged tsssels upon the Dack me sere
or the Cords should be placed only upon
costumes where there are few huternR trimmings, II
any, and where the folds lie In smooth grace on tne
contrary ribbons belong 10 the c0quetsh style OF dress
whereon they 1utcr in innumerable DAINTY knois and
ends accordance with some gay butterfly French
costume. II mistake 10 place ribbons and eords on
models in dress ladies who not carefully
coached" or have failed personally TO study
e eessories Of the toilet. For instance. the
style Of Embarrassing; the jewels aces as well as the
Observed or person will look to quote Sir Benjamin
Backbite &" like mendcd sntue III which the eonnois-
seur may that tae head is modern. though
| the trunk : antique"
Within the last few passion for lace has arisen,
and no collection without ancient lGce form
uQ complete set Female travellers, as well as the
agents for mercantile h)nses. take the collecting
| mania not only for bnc abrsc, but FOL the
supeIb church lace Of Italy the exquisite work
| 1uanshp OF nuns Spanish m0pastorIes, who
expend all their skill Spanish pout and elso for
tne beautiful silk lace blonde both white and black.
| 1he Nauoual ManIa of Spain Ia held sacred by
| law and cannot be seiz d for debt, but Is
| frequently eagerly purchased by collectors, and
| AS eagerly sold by impoverished owners The
| pattern OF Brussels lace follows the fashion
OF the ancient lace OF this manufacture showing The
Gothic styie Of ornament which has been KEEP; heir
looms III some families The present patterns follow
nature ard are wonderfully artistc they accurately
! copled in the machine-made laces IN cotton.
| Alencon, Cnantiily Vaeuciennes, heavy old