Washington standard. [volume] (Olympia, Wash. Territory) 1860-1921, 1880-03-05
Homemade Garments.

It may be we'll to continue the sub
ject considered last week, for the benz
tit OF the uninitiated in such matters,
and give the details of making panta-
looms. vests and sack coats. If pat
tern cannot be purchased, one can be
obtained by ripping up half Of we'll
fitting but worn-out garment, pressing
it out smoothly and using it as a pat
tern; the other half will show how the
various parts should be put togther.
Or tailor may be employed to cut o
garment. and the seamstress before
making it up may cut pattern for her.
self for future use. In making panta-
looms the first thing done is to stitch on
the facings of the pockets and insert
the pockets; then the "dress" is fin.
ished; then each leg is sewed up, and
the waistband put on. Then he two
parts are Joined together, and the tri.
angular piece in the back set in; then
the straps are made and sewed on the
waistband; then the lining is basted
nearly around the bottom of the panta-
looms, the pantaloons hemmed and
pressed, the buttons sewed on, and they
are done. In hemming, the stitches
should be taken so as to lie with the
warp of the cloth and if q fine needle is
used aud the silk is the exact color of
the goods, the stitches will not show.
Great pains should be bestowed upon
the stayings so they will not give way.
A piece of fine linen in addition TO the
Innings should underlie all parts where
buttons are sewed on. The material
for pockets and Innings should be of
good quality so it will last. Pressing
should accompany the sewing of every
seam, and complete the whole. If the
pantsloons of boys are lined with silesia
their service will be doubled. Those
who live near tailor might employ
him to give the final pressing upon
which the perfecting of the work so
much depends. The economy of max.
ing these garments is manifest when
one finds that more than half that is
paid for good pair of pantaloons goes
for the work of making them. A wo-
man can easily make pair in one day
ii she has sewing machine and knows
how; if she doesn't know low, she can
easily learn.
Vests are more difficult to put to-
gether than are psntaloons. The order
OF their making is very important. If,
for instance, one makes the collar first,
then the other part of the vest, and then
tries to put the two together nicely,
she will find an impossible task before
her; but taken in the proper order the
processes are all easy. First the gore,
if there is one at the side under the
pocket must be stitched and pressed
nicely; then the opening of the pocket
cut and the pocket inserted, then the
lining of the collar is sewed to the out
side of the vest, then the outside of the
collar is joined to the front and bottom
facing of the vest, then these two parts
are nicely fitted together, basted and
stitched, then turned, pressed andIone
or two rows of stitching made all round
the edge. Then the wadding, if any
is used. is fastened to the lining, this
stitched to the outside around the open
ing for the arm, turned, basted and
faced down with invisible stitches on
the collar, front and bottom facings,
the roll of the collar having been care
fully adjusted. When the two fronts
of the vest are thus finished, the straps
for the back are made and fastened in
place, and the two fronts are laid facing
each other inside the double lining of
the back, the seams under the arms
fitted together and basted, the shoulder
seams likewise, the double lining
basted together at the opening for the
arm. Then beginning at the seam on
the shoulder, at the opening for the
neck, sew round to the corresponding
point of the other shoulder seam. Pull
the fronts of the vest through the open
ing at the neck, close the collar at the
back and face the Innings down on it,
or it down upon the Innings, for both
methods are used, press neatly, make
button-holes and sew on buttons and
the vest is done. With good pattern
and vest to look at as a guide, one
quite ignorant of vest making can sue
coed very we'll the first time.
Unless the seams are exactly straight
or curved, as the case may be, no
amount of pressing or other care will
make the finished garment look nice.
For straight edges one should have a
rule and for curved edges guide and
French chalk to mark seams to be
sewed so that when turned and pressed
the line of the edge will be perfectly
smooth and even. In sewing on the
machine the guide should be used in
order that entire accuracy may be at
taine., No matter how good the ma
terial may be, if it is carelessly put to-
gether, ali fine effect will be wanting.
The stylish look of many suit that
wears shoddy in week or two is owing
to the accuracy Of the seamstress in
making the edges Of the garment exact
and smooth. If the cutting out is we'll
done 1t will be easy to do the sewing
we'll if due diligence is used.
Sack coats are 80 easily made that di-
rections are unnecessary. Any one
that can follow q pattern can make
sack coat, and the dress coats must be
left, so far as at present seems advisa-
bic, to the skill of the professions! tail
ON. Y. Tribune.
GUM ARABIC.-In Morocco, about the
middle of November, that is, after
rainy season, which begins in July, q
gummy juice exudes spontaneously
from the trunk and principal branches
of the acacia tree. In about fifteen days