The Portland daily press., 1880-07-15
THURSDAY MORNING, JULY Is.

Sashes TO wear with such dresses are made of
Surah silk, either dark red or peacock blue,
finished with spikes of gilt on red and silver
on the blue. The Surah is cut in two length
wise, and then sewed together double; the
ends of the sash are gathered, and the spike
put on. With black dresses made with round
waists black Surah sashes are used, and hn-
lshed with a jet ball; sometimes the black
sash is lined with red Surah; there are also
saShes of Surah that are blue on one side and
red on the other. These Surah sashes are so
soft that they may be tied around the waist
without adding to the bulk: they are fastened
by knot on the left side, from which the ends
hang only as far as the knee; very long sashes
are not stylish. Sometimes plain belt is
covered with Surah finished with spikes or
balls hang straight down the back; this gives
finish to the round waist, and takes away
the plain look at the top of skirts that have no
overskirts; loops with these sashes detract
from their broad Oriental style quite as much
as would too great length.
The linen lawns are prettier this summer
than usual, and are more highly appreciated
for their GOODNESS and cheapness. The polka
dotted patterns-b black, blue, brown or red on
white-make up most stylishly, and are sold in
nice qualities of pure linen from % to 50 cents
yard. Fifteen yards are required to make a
short dress with round waist, apron front, and
straight full back simply trimmed with full
border f1ounce. Dark red or blue satin ribbon
in a long-loopcd bow at the throat, with belt
ol the same tied on the lett side with short,
hanging ends, is all the ornament needed.
The neck may have a handkerchief tichu
which is pointed behind, or else a Byron COL
lar. Pretty evening dresses are made of the
cream white seaside zephyr, which initiates
India stuffs with crape-like finish, and costs
from IS to 81 cents yard. II requires to be
made in full bouffant fashion with much fes-
TONED drapery and is trimmed with Langue-
doc lace and many loops of pale pink or blue
ribbon.
Barred English homespun cloths and the
coa"hman's drab and olve-colored flannels are
the most stylish selections for mountain
dresses this summer. Gray homespun with
red or blue bars. and the pattern known as
Cheviot designs are very fashionable, also
checks of two shades of yelowish brown very
similar to the rough sleazy cloths worn by gen.
tlemen for business suits. Navy blue suits of
flannel areestil worn by those who do not care
for novelties. belted basque, with three box
pleats in front and back, is the design for the
waists OF flannel dresses, though occasionally a
coat basque is seen, with square pockets, cuffs
and collar of striped flannel, or else covered
with many rows of braid The pleated basque
has no ornament but the stitching on the
pleats, collar, sleeves, belt and on the lower
edge of the basque. A scant round oversa irt
is still liked, with slight hoped drapery be-
hind, but it is newer to have q full round
skirt with the shot apron forming the only
drapery. This is handsome made of gray
homespun barred with red; the full skirt is
then finished with narrow box-pleating
around the foot, and ten or twelve rows of
red stitching above it,