Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-12-04

WnHe now they are not only approved, but
toinette; or cap like Mother Hubb ard, or .
run copied after Queen Elizabeth, or pulled
sleeves to match the unfortunate Marie Stuart's,
vonshire hats. and gowns taken right out of the
sixteenth, seventeenth or eighteenth centuries
The change is also made manifest quite as
mpch Ds aas Is not as ey what - wofa How
agony which has been piled on under the name
OF 'drapery." How pleasant to return to the
long plain skirt, with knowledge that the
Overskfrt confers distinction! How refreshing
the sense OF freedom, the ability to choose the
style OF ones grandmOther'S gown. II that Is
cesign. from which it will not do to deper a
haiI IS breadth!
Naturally these evidences of radica move
ment among women do not lie very near the
rich than among the professional women and
artists The very fashionable follow the lead
OF French dressmakers, and carefully avoid a
lattuce winch has flavor OF BOhemtaniSm.
But 1t Is observable that ideas which originate
with the artist class in England have been
eagerly caught up by reigning authorities In
Worth and Prfgat, particularly Worth, who is a
man Of genius and ideas, recognizes a good
thing, whether new or old in his own line, when
he sees Il, and is not at all the slave Of notions
Imagine a lady in an amber satin dress
trimmed with old gold plush. the trained skirt
having band of the plush, the deep basque
fringe OF chenille, with band OF plush aoove;
the sleeves formed OF alternate puffs OF satin
ano oands OF plush. Imagine this tall. stately
woman with brown hair plain : waved back
rom pale serious face, talking at a commoa-
place evening entertainment with a little lady
In Josephine dress OF white satin with straight
bodice and full pulled sleeves. Yet this was
really seen In an ordinarily fashionable assem-
blage, and no one thought anything OF if. The
contrast in the style aud character or the two
dresses could Lot have been greater had the
centuries rolled between them.
But it is not often that such sharp contrasts
ale forced upon the attention; usually dress Is
Ordinary enough: the presence Of a new
thought, an idea In ire mind OF the wearer, in
or the SuperfuouS and the presence OF some
slttIe innovation: some original touch. which
heps characteristic Of the wearer.
WINTER STYLES.
Ihe special features of this seasons styles
are warmth and comfort. II people who can
oress at all are not warm it must be their own
fault. Short wooden dresses for the street, long
It ather cloth or seal skin listers, and beaver
bonnets, knocked In and tied down with garnet
ribbon under the chin. The garnet, however,
the ribbons should be black also. Materials are
warm. Colors are warm and dark. Fur is
pre- sent everywhere and is used upon every
thing: dresses, jackets, bonnets, gloves and
side. and the hats and bonnets that are not
beaver. are either feathers or fur or trimmed
with fur.
The ''velveto season seems to have changed
into ''fur season and the fur dealers would
have reason to rejoice If the s. lid furs were In
me ascendant. But alas SealSkin listers at
$3.50 and $500 each are luxurieS reserved for the
lew, and the fur is mostly worn In shreds and
patches-eyen muffS being made by dress
makers, and having only band Of fur trim
ming, or lining OF fur to an outside, matching
the costume.
The short dress for the street Is blessing so
generally appreciated and so absolute a neces-
slty for the new class OF business and profess
S SIC woman that Will not be likely to loose
IN the habit Of doing. There are enough now
OF supporting women In active pursuits to
sustain whatever they find most suitable and
convenient. at least so far as the length of
skirt Is concerned. and the comfortable walking
dresS Will therefore be retained during the
present generation.
siqered decided innovations at first, and for
Which short life-whether or not a merry
oEe-WaS prOphesied have steadily held their
Own a ana become part of the existing order, sus
ceptiple, OF course, of change and notifications
10 their details, but intact as elemental condi-
tons. The walking hat, for example, was born,
OF rather born again, about twenty-f1 five years
ago, round, straight bTfmmed, decidedly
Iustic-looK1ng country cousin in the way of
head gear, and the laughing stock of its more
fashionable relative, the coal scuttle bonnet. 1t
three stories and mansard roof and though
it was r1dicued, IL found adherents which it
mas never lost. The low crown and straight
remained and remains Still: has o figured va.
r1ously as the Hungarian the Polish, the Rus.
sian, and the Tyrolean and more recently as
the Galnsborough, the Rembrandt, the Rubens,
the Van Dyke, and the Duchess OF Devcnshire;
urtu now there are hats and caps OF every
imaginable form, bnt all mere Outgrowth and
enlargement e a OF the original idea. The basque
the early basque was: Broad, Lifting sn be.
cause CUT low upon the shoulder and broad
upon The bach, il was most awkward and
waist But there was useful and convenient
IDEA In Ii; also, an opportunity for moulding the
form to more shapeliness than was possible
began to be perceived. The basque gained
ground, and for years the test Of a dressmaker
was her ability to fit basque.
But the numerous failures made some ladies'
resort 10 the ta1lOrs. who improved the outlines
oy making them more like those of q coat
whence came the term ''tailor-made basuuesn-
and the basque became fixture. What more
perfect form can be imagined. for a high bod
dice, than the well fitting cUirass basque?
PLUSH COSTUMES.
Among the very newest street costumes are
combinations OF silk plush and wool In solid
uniform color. The skirt is of wool, trimmed
with plush, the deep jacket OF plush lined with
which accompany the costume Of plush also
lined with farmers satin, and trimmed with
CORDS but not tasseis. The substitute for those
Oii OuO cop ID pumpOua, upOu tue Hull LUe cOCUS
are festooned and the ends concealed by bows OF
satin ribbon. The sides of these dainty little
NUTS are rutfled with the plush which Is lined
with the satin so that the edge shows this
inner side of brighter and more shining
fabric. These complete costumes of plush and
Vicugua cloth, or ribbed cashmere are we'll
adapted for afternoon receptions and general
visiting purposes. There is no basque under
the plush jacket, so they are not too warm and
are made comfortable for the street In the
coolest weather by the addition of wrap or
round cloak.
The same complete design can be carried out
in velvet and wool with an advantage on the
size CT service and durability, for plush does not
wear very well Ii put to frequent use, and Will
60 out Of fashion while velvet Is always good
wear.
Richer reception and visiting costumes are
composed OF velvet and satin, with fur for trim
ming, the cap having band of the fur, and the
mun band through the center instead OF on
the sides, when IL is finished with ruffleS, but
some laGies prefer the plain muff of solid satin,
with narrow fur bands upon the ends and lining
manent and suitable for those who have
attained matIonly age and dignity.
AFTERNOON RECEPTIONS.
The afternoon reception was happy thought
Which probably grew out of the English five
O'Clock tea, which we have never been able to
acclimate because our dinner hour (siX o'clOck)
entrenches upon 1t too closely. But the after
noon reception beginning at four and ending at
seven is just sufficiently formed to serve as a
means having OF debts and inst sufficiently