The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1880-11-15
New York Fashions.
(Harper's Bazar.]


New tints and new contrasts of color are
seen in the stylish costumes imported during
the past week by leading modists. Scabieuse
and dahlia shades of purple tnged with GRIM
son are used in soft wool and satns with re-
fined effect. while pheasant brown is enlivened
by the brilliant Prince of Wales red, or monks
brown is striped with navy blue, old gold and
red, and the favorite seal brown is bordered
with green in the shades so popular with Par
isennes. Scarcely black silk dress is shown
among the importatiens, for silk lacks lustre,
say the modistes, or rather it Is only half way
between the stylish dull finish of fine woollens
and the sheen of the satins now so much used.
If the wearer prefers black, she must choose
either woollen goods-eamels hair, cashmere
or cloth-or else the lustrous Bengaline satin
de Lyon or velvet, and these are almost iuva-
riably frightened still further by beaded
trimmings or facings of some gay fabric
There are also very tasteful house dresses in
which black is the principal color, with q Jer-
sey waist wrought with jet beads, and made
up with skirts of satin de Lyon, with scarf
sashes beaded like the Jersey or else of the dull
Madras plaids in Surah satin. The preference
however, is noticed for woollen costumes that
are made short enough for street wear, and
though of some quiet color principally, they
are warmed and frightened by contrasting
facings to make them also suitable for the
house.
The round waists so popular here become
very dressy corsages in the hands of Partisan
modistes, who introduce most becoming
guimpe of shirred satin that is sewed perma-
nently in the top of the dress, covering the
shoulders and chest, and meeting pretty roll
ing collar of plush or Of velvet The full soft
belt of Surah and the double side forms of the
back take away the plain look of the
waist worn here with peasant dresses, and
make very graceful dress for the house and
for the street also when wrap is added. This
is prettly illustrated in a dress Of dahlia fred-
purple) cashmere trimmed with satin and vel
vet of the same shade. The lining of the round
waist as cut long enough to extend over the
hips, under the skirts aud the whalebones
reach to the ends of this waist. The guimpe
of satin is first set on in shirri rs around the
neck to show no shoulder seams, and is finished
with standing gathered ruff1e of the satin in
stead of collar. This guimpe is pointed back
and front and disappears under the velvet rever
collar which rolls over from the cashmere that
covers the remainder of the waist. The close
sleeve has velvet turned back narrowly at the
WriSt WIN a SnlIreu Sdtiu Gun escaping DeIOW
it. Bullet-shaped crocheted buttons fasten.
the front. The narrow round skirt lining only
two and quarter yards wide has gathered ruff
fies of doubled satin and velvet at the foot.
Just below the waist in front and on the sides
is great deal of shirred satin, while below
this is cashmere drapery i'll many wrinkles fill
ing up the space to the rutfte3 at the foot, and
cashmere is also draped behind. The sash belt
is of satin Surah two yards and half long and
three fingers wide. 1t is passed around the
waist line to conceal the skirt belt and is tied
in long looped bow on the left side The
ends are simply ravelled TO form fringe.
Dresses Tor small children have outlines SINH
lar to those OF the pilgrimage suits for ladies' but
are oitenest made all in one piece. as princesse
dresses are. The quaint little peleripe aud
hood are conspicuous on most of the suits and
walking coats imported The darkest colors
used tor ladies and the richest materials are
Seen on these, such as velvet, plush and satin,
with brOcades that were formerly thought on
ly fit for a dowager The furnishing houses,
however, find il more profitable To copy these
dresses in the simpler WOO stuffs, such as Ma
dras plaids, and Cheviots, with many cash.
mere and Chuddah dresses, and occasionally
those of ladies' cloth. The plush and velvet
walking coats are made only for the smallest
children, but cape of plush or a hood with
plush lining modernizes many of the woolen
dresses left over from last Winter. The shirred
waists a,e also used on the princesse dresses
made Tor small girls, and these, with round
capes and the WIDE rolled brim beaver hats,
give little women quaint, old fashioned look
that is now considered picturesque. The peas
ant dress, with round waist, full skirt, and
draped apron, precisely like those worn by
young ladies, is copied for girls from eight to
fourteen years Of age,