Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1880-07-31
SARATOGA FASHIONS,
The Season at Our Gaycst Water.
ing Place.

ing Place.
lF1'ont On1 OIrn Correspondent
SARATOGA, July 80.
saratoga Is gay with very different gayety
from that which prevailed twenty years ago
linen there was much less freedom, much more
Journalism, much less real comfort. but great
deal more splendor and ceremony In dress and
belongings. Then distinctions were widely
marked, and 1t was uncomfortable for a lady to
stay lnere unless she was accompanied by the
regulation number of Saratoga trunks, could
grange her dress five times in the day, and con-
form IN every respect to the unWritten laws
which guided and controlled the etiquette of
dress and fashion. Times are different now. NOT
mat there Is not plenty OF dress, and plenty of
display OF 1t, out 1t Is certainly not changed so
OFTEN, and there is refreshing freedom In the
independence with which ladies whose wealth
ana position enables them to stand as authority
wear simple dress from morning until eve
ming, changing IL as suits their personal tastes
ana convenience not sacrificing their own In
chna6lops s. to any faneied necessity. This
change las been produced since the war, and it
mas he!ped to make Saratoga one OF the most
delghtful, as 1t has always been one of the most
healthful and stimulating OF our summer re-
sorts.
THE WOMAN OF THE FUTURE.
There are two facts that strike one with i'm
1nense force this season on first arriving at the
most popular OF our watering places, and these
are hrst, the number Of tall we'll grown young
women that the present age has developed,
and, second, the size OF the hats they wear.
look like revival Of the race OF Scandinavian
goddesS-as If all at once our earth were being
Pt es9pIed again by mighty Brunhelds and lovely
Sldurthas, instead Of the slim sallow type we
have Deen accustomed to associate with the
born American. WV
The immense hats, which have wide, indented
OF turned up DrlmS, enhance this blooming style
| OF beauty and render 1t all the more conspicu-
Gus. little more Of dignity, little more OF
iT eips e. and they would quite realize the poets
| most diyinely fair. But their too abrupt move
ments and the loud talking-the silly talking
ana 'tittering" IN which nearly all girls In.
lies. they are the representatives of
The IN present, and particularly Of the
America, and as such are to be congratulated
on being great improvement physically on
dhose that have gone before them. Their fine
development speaks we'll for what improved
methods-more air. better and more nutritious
food, and stronger, more intelligent aims-are
aOlng aof :, 1hem, NO more slate pencils no more
rneOIies IN regard TO food, no more moonlight
IeVerleS and morbid longings: the healthy mod
era 81 / Is the most practical, the most unro-
mantlc OF mortals, and her dinner is as import
ant TACT TO her as 1t is to an alderman on Lord
May s day She is not ashamed to eat. and
she shows the results OF good living and exer-
else, both or mind and of body. From such
young women as these In the present, 1t is easy
10 Cell what the women OF the future will be-
ERECT realiZationS OF the ideals of the poets and
the ronahcers-no mere bundle OF nerves. but
ktDp-
dom that Is preparing for them.
MORNING DRESSES.
=, one OF the greatest pleasures of Saratoga is
me music, OR perhaps 1t is the exercise the
music affords for social companionshtp, for the
coming together upon the wide interior piazza
OF OF, q the notes and the chatting with friends
romance or the ballad of Robin Adais come
floating towards you. Be that as it may. here
Is great rivalry between the hotels in the effort
10 secure an orchestra OF superior character,
and the very best time to see the morning or
evening fashions OF Saratoga Is upon the back
plazzas OF the principal hotels when the ladies'
are gathered to hear the strains Of Verdi or
Gounod, Sullivan OF Strauss between breakfast
and the walk or drive before dinner. 1t is
easy TO discover who are the guests OF the house
and who are stragglers, the lockers on, the
guests Of the guests. The costumes Of the
former are more mixed and are of an un-
def1ned character. There are stout broad
raced old ladies' in the t1nieSt of bonnets and
Small-1eatured young women in enormous hats.
Between these are angular females there Is no
other word to describe theml, fiat-cheSted and
with hair that looks worried and anxious as IL
IL never could be got to arrange itself right, and
looks dragged ana worn out with hair pins and
unsktllful handling. Where these last come
from, and what they do in Saratoga is always
mystery. 1t cannot be any interest in dress, for
their clothing has nothing whatever to do with
fashion, past, present, or to come. The ma
jority, OF course, does not belong to either OF
these classes-they are charming women, in ap-
pearance, at least, and form themselves into
gay groups as much at home under the radiant
haps tr1f1fng with embroidery While they chat
with their friends in the intervals of their IA
vorite compositions. The first impression these
groups create is one OF refinement and rest,
their Is nothing exciting about their toilets In
style or color. They are SOFT, dainty and usually
white. There is white in every variety. White
SWISS muslin, White null trimmed with lace
and ribbons; white Saline Ornamented with
needle work and black velvet and white wool
Trimmed with plated lace and satin ribbons.
There is white silk muslin, exQuisitely embroid-
cred and charmingly draped over heliotrops
SILK. and creamy white India silk, trimmed with
e saSa;s OF Breton lace, and worn with
fchu OF the same lace, which looks like a large
collar. There is even one dress of sheetinS,
though this material is banished this season
from good society; but 1t Is trimmed rather loud
~ with bandanna plaid-a combination which
only the brunette beauty Of the Wearer renders
picturesque and becoming. great deal OF the
alr OF refinement which have said character
ICES such an aSsemblage this season comes from
the absence OF the former vulgarizIne additions
10 the natural hair, the dirty trailing skirts and
lne unnatural humps produced By bustles tour
nures and the like. The dress Of women at the
present time is almost as natural as iU can be-
IL outlines the form it admits OF no distortions
or eXcrescences The simpler it is the better it
tracts from grace. The short skirts can be kept
Ias,ldlously clean, and In sitting displa the
Prei,ty strapped or tie shoe and solid baek red,
open work. The untidy wrapper has Of cosirsa
disappeared; there are morning dresses cut prin-
cesse style, but they are short, and have a dress
pretty full and straight at the back: trimmed
or apron fronts; round waists and half sleeves
slightly gathered into a straight Gun covered
with lace. In the fashion of thirty years apo.
Young girls wear colOred coats and bodices with
white RULED skirts, or thin white wooden
dresses, embroidered in outline patterns with
shaded wool In decorative patterns
THE SARATOGA GARDEN PARTY.
The "galden party" is modern imnrove.
ment upon the ancient hop, which is usually a
G!smal affair. To Judge Hilton and Mr. Heary
C!air, OF the Grand Union, belong the cIefiit or
discovering and carrying out this brilliant idea.
which entails great deal OF trouble and ex,
pense, but affords an almost entire day of pIeas
u!e 10 thous ands, and leaves the remembrance
OF scene more rich In color and picturesque
detail than can be realized by the aid Of the
Imagination alone. A floor for the dancers and
a platform for the musicians are erected upon
the ground. and the latter Is draped with flags,
While the former is feStooned and furnished
with settees. This floor is given up to the chill
oren In the afternoon, and to the adults In the
evening. The spectacle OF so many beautiful
children, quantity and charmtngly dressed
dancirg with modern ease perfection and grace
tnrrlx :. tho w q mn M n