The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1880-11-05
ARTISTIC DRESS

60 well understood Dut mat one WIN ptec-
tees II makes o picture which every one
turns around to look at; but there Is fecog-
nuion Of 1t as an art, aud there IS freedom
for every one who chooses to avail herseii
Of Il.
Fashion itself has revived much that Is
picturesque and quaint ADD CHARACTERISTIC
In bats and bonnets, but as yet 1t has done
but little for Us as regards sleeves. All us
energies OF late years have been exhausted
upon punching OF "drapery upon tue
skirt, part OF the dress whose long lines
are more graceful aud becoming when ht
unbraken; but the sleeves aud bodice du'
ring this lime have received little attention.
The cuirsss basque, which has been Tue
principal refuge aud dependence, is good
thing la Itself, but quite out OF harmony
with a much tiimmcd skirt; aud this
basque, with straight coat-seeyes, shaped
close 10 the thin arm OF the average
American woman, realizes everything but
an artistic conception OF Venus or SUBJ
[iect fora painter. The sleeves are strong
point In historic dress, and The renewal OF
such modes In aesthetic circles has been SUI
ficientIy marked TO furnish suggestions OF
which clever modistes are glad 10 take ad-
yantsge. Some house. dresses OF plain cash
mere have been made lately which perfectly
moslded the figure, and had sleeves alone
embroidered in small star-like patterns or
daiScs, small and very close together. The
idea ives obtained from England, and The
effect was very good.
The open sleeve is also revived for house
wear cut longer on the back than on the
inside OF the arm, and turned up or raced
A formerly with contrasting color. More
stately and ceremonious effects are pro-
duced by the pulled sleeves, which make
headway very slowly, for they seem stlff
innovation instead OF revival OF a style
which held sway when all that was rich or
tasteful, IN fashion had its origin, to those
who remember only the plain-sbaped sleeve
OF a recent period. Doubtless this simple
skiD.like covering is boon to woman
with full r0ugd arms; no woman should
dlS6gure such on arm for an instant with
al enlarged sleeve, slashcd, pulled, or Leg
of-muttoned. But she may indulge, if she
chooses. 10 the long, graceful, hanging
sleeve, or one OF shirred lace. which only
forms irregular fluctuations, but does not
make fall arm degenerate into st0utness.
The E0giish "smOck" is very quaint,
and ore was recently brought from Lon
don that was perfect reproduction OF Il
carriers smock 1t i. made OF very dark
green twilled silk, and the gatherings, back
aud front and on the top and bottom Of tie
sleeves, are sewn with red. A little straight
cuff OF ed satin is turned over at the wrists,
and q straight collar at the neck, both en-
broideI ed with q sort OF herring bone IN
green silk mai cbing the color OF tine smock.
The skirt over which IL is worn and beltedB
OF red satin, and it is caught up on one side
with long loops OF red satin ribbon. This
will he used as an afternoon reception
dress at home, and IS charming for that pur-
pose.
Young ladies are putting their smateur
paintings and embrOideries TO good Use by
ornamenting parts Of their dress very beau
tifully aud ineXpensivey. One Of the
picces OF work, executed during a summer
holiday, consisted of vivid carnations with
olive brown stems upon the cuffs, apron,
and breteles Of fawn-colored cashmere.
Another showed small pink daisies upon
cuffs. and large collar of black SILK, which,
edged with old lace, constitute the highest
kind OF style for house or morning-dress.
Wild roses arc painted upon white satin
cap.crowns for opera wear, and every giI
paints fans and oId.fashOned reticules for
herself and her elder friends. Some Of the
painting is net very high art, but both 1t
and The embroidery are an immense i'm
which used to renose on cushions before
the fire, or sit straight up and stare every
body out OF cOuntcnance.
HIGH-SECR DRESSING.
The fashion OF dressing the neck very
high seems TO have recovered from the
slight setback which was probably caused
Iy the long and extremely warm summer,
and Will doubtless receive an additional I'M
petus from the advent of Mile. Sarah Bern.
hard, one Of whose peculiarities it is. Tri-
ple r,lches Of black lace have made their APP
pearance, and very long scars OF white
tulle, white gauze, or white heecy wool,
which are twisted around and around the
throat. and the ends fastened with silver
pin representing lizard, or some sort OF
reptile. Long black lace scarfs are used for
the street aud begin to divide the honors
with the three.c0rnered SIX bandkerchleis
which only succeeded them year ago, but
are beginning to disappear inside The neck
of dresses instead Of disporiDg themselves,
washer.woman fashion, on the outside.
WINTER FURs,
There is not much to say about winter
furS. so much depends upon whether we
have any winter. For the last three or
four wears the outlook has been very dis
and now that NUTS have largely
fallen into the hands OF the millners, there
is little left except sealskin sacques upon
which to base fur trade. Fur-lined SILK
cloaks are dealt in by every furnishing
house; fur cuffs are obsolete, and collars
have only precarious existence, Tor Inc
gauzc and lace scarfs and wide null ties are
preferred to them.
IL the season should prove one OF eXcep-
,;ona1 saVaritv hoUpvnr &C last winter was
abroad, we shall be fully prepared to meet
il. for if we have no: cuffs and collars we
have coats and cloaks made entirely OF fur,
dresses trimmed half a yard deep, and Lap
land fur bOnne,s Of the old cabriolet shape,
which makes the face look like white
mouse in its hole.
There ia q new set consisting OF collar and
muff, which is much liked as an accompani-
ment OF dark woolien costumes, which do
not admit OF anything fancy. 1t is made OF
natural undyed fantastic combinations OF
lace and feathers and fur and satin and vel
vet and bows manufactured by the MILL
ncrs.
The beaver bonnets in millinery are the
success OF the season. They are the only
styles that possess any character. Their
square crowns aud broad brims enable
them TO take any shape. They are bent
into coal scutties or turned up la
Rembrandt. In black and ecru, the
only two coors in which they are
made, they can be worn with any dress, and
are stylish with but little trimming. The
beaded bonnets and small feather bonn"is
are only effective so far as color Is concern
ed. They have no claim to distinction In
form any more than a skull-cap, which they
resemble, but then they are very expensive
and sometimes very brilliant in plumage,