The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1880-01-17

L AAANo oh0 hhotO VAtCa5tVCIy 0SCu I'VE
millinery purposes than ever, several ap-
pearing upon the same bonnet, and often
Of different plumage. Nor are they con-
fined to millinery purposes alone. They
are used very freely in handsome cos
TUNES, particularly those for evening
1 wear. !.
! Flowers are slowly coming to the front,
though there Is every indication that
birds will still be used as the season ad-
vances, since they appear in profusion
upon the early spring bonnets, which are
designed as patterns for the trade.
Flowers are also used upon some bonnets
quite lavishly, but these are exquisitely
true to nature, and very expensive.
In costumes there seems to be really
dividing line, so far as length is con-
eerned. Short suits invariably appear
upon the street, that is in walking.
Demi-trains are adopted for house and
carriage wear, long trains for evening and
full dress, except in the case Of young
ladies, who are permitted to wear short
skirts upon nearly all occasions.
For street wear the skirt and coat are
in favor, with all manner of elaborate fur
wraps and mantless or the wrap may be
of rich cloth or velvet, and fur-trimmed.
Street costumes are of heavy material
velvet, satin or corduroy-and trimmings
of silk in cashmere patterns are most in
favor. Heavy wool fabrics also appear,
and are exceedingly we'll adapted to the
rather plain manner in which street cos
tunes are made.
House dresses are different affairs. Of
rich material, or a combination of sew
eral rich materials, they are fashioned in
the most elaborate manner. The drap-
cry is not usually very volumfnous, and
two especial styles are chiefly in vogue.
One, rich skirt shirred aud trimmed
with panels, or the ornamentation ar
ranged rather fiat, and an equally rich
basque, which may be either Of the same
or Of different material. These basques
are close-ftting, clinging to the figure
like glove, and made in coat-like
fashion. The only boufant drapery in
this style Of costume consists in the ar
rangement of the back Of the skirt. The
second style, which ia nearly as popular,
consists of dress, or q polonaise and
skirt; though when the polonaise ap-
pear, the front is always short, to display
the trimming upon the skirt. It. has
sometimes a vest-front; is sometimes ar
ranged in panniers at the sides; often it
has both vest and panniers.
Some new combinations in color ARE
met with, among them cardinal and rose,
amethyst and pale blue, green and gold,
and brown and green. This last is one
of Worth's latest; but if / adhere strict
ly to the truth, can not call it pretty.
A black satin dress is made in skirt
and basque. The former has plaitings of
cardinal satin let in at the front and bot
tom; these plaitings are covered with a
netted jet fringe. At the sides the long
basque has three rather fiat panniers:
two of black, the center one being cardin-
al. Each pannier is edged with netted
jet fringe. The back Of the skirt is
looped and slashed in most bewildering
fashion, showing, here and there, gleam
of cardinal through the black fringe.
The corsage has bands of shirred cardinal
satin, covered with fichu Of black bead
ed lace.
Evening and bail costumes are still
more elaborate, and are made of COM
bination of materials. For instance, a
corsage of gold brocade is worn with
skirt of pale blue satin, which may be
trimmed with the. bfocade. Coat cor
sages are even adopted for evening wear,
and are sometimes low in the neck. |
Velvet coats Of plain color are worn with |
contrasting satin or gauze skirts, the |
coat being usually the darker hue. Some
evening corsages are made with a point
in front, are glove-ftting and laced un-
der the arms in manner that leads one
to marvel how it, is put on and if the
wearer is not like the traditional sailors
wife, dressed with the needle and un-
dressed with the scissors" In sober truth /
the day may not be far away when bellies
will adopt this mode Of dress as being
singular and exceedingly troublesome,
and therefore, unlikely to be adopted by
the masses.
Fur costumes must not be forgotten.
They are heavy and clumsy y-appearing,
but no matter, since they are new and
expensive. In some cases even the skirt
is Of fur, or of satin bordered with
band Of fur SO deep as to reach to the
Jacket. A costume of brown satin and
seal had seal skirt, with q n rrow bor-
der Of satin and seal bodice, both SKIRT
and bodice being laced with gold cords
rather loosely, in order to show plait-
ings Of satin beneath. Another fur cos
tune was Of rat-skins, skirt, bodice and
cap, all trimmed with chinchllla fur,
the cap with a hawks head at one side.
Still another fur costume was Of Astra-
chan and black diamond.
Buttons are becoming an expensive
item in a lady's dress. They are in all
manner Of materials and styles. Worth
uses walnut and oak buttons for mantles.
Gold, set with gems Of great val1e, are
worn bya favored few. Gold and en-
amel, with a coronet or especial design,
finds favor with the nobility. Hand
painted buttons, on satin or porcelain,
are exceedingly pretty. Pearl, steel and
silver are also popular. Fof fastening
shirred bodices the ancient hook and eye
are once more employed, as button-hofes