Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1880-03-05
New Y:rl Fashions.
SpUrSf, NITfTJSTrT


Further importations Of spring nlllln-
cry confirm the earliest advices. There
will be very little change in the shapes of
bonncts and those of medium sizes,
neither very large nor very small, are
most seen at present. Poke shapes OF
the moderate sizes are very largely I'M
ported in all the various braids, such as
Tuscan, chip, lace straw. English split
straw, satin braids and Leghorns. The
creamy yellow Tuscan brlids and the
lustrous satin straws are very handsome
and promise to he the leading fabrics.
The lace straws are open braids III beauti-
full lace-like designs. and appear To be
much stronger than the frail straw laces
formerly used. Sometimes the brim only
is striped with this lace, while the crown
lis Of more solid braid, such as chip or
Tuscan. A special novelty is the cash
mere effects given to these new straws by
introducing colored threads in the lace
like design; pale blue, heiiotrope, and
red threads are very effective when com
bined with the natural hue Of the straw
There are also mottled effects of color
given to chip hats to match the costume
with which they are to be worn, and
sometimes two shades of colored chip
from alternate stripes all around the bon
net these are excellent for morning wear
or for travelling bonnets in two shades OF
brown, beige, lavender, gray or green.
Black chip bOnnets have merely the
crown of chip, while the scoop bfim and
the curtain are formed Of straw lace,
which is heavily beaded with fine jet
beads; sometimes old gold straw is ar
ranged in stripes in the black chip bon
nets
The Marie Christian is the name given
to dressy affair which is neithera bonnet
nor hat, but something between, ana is
TO be worn by young ladies' on drossy oc-
os.sions. ut Newport or Saratoga. 1t has
a prominent crown, with Il wide brlln
rolled back from The trent, and split Ill
two from the edge to the crown; this split
is To come directly on top Of the head,
and the crown is to be placed quite far
back un the head. The tinring brim will
be faced with - becoming color. and the
crown Is to he trimmed down one side
with Il long McrcutIu p.Um,, aud down
the other with flowers. The yellow
Tuscan braid is most used Tor this Span
ish address, with Spanish lace strings,
and the new Spanish yellow called Ira
belle will appear in the trimmings, CON-
bined with red iii the flowers, tocomplete
the national culors OF SPAN. There are
other wide-brimmed round hats III vari-
GUS shapes, recalling the Devonshire and
Pinafora styles Of last season, and young
ladies who have valuable Leghorn and
chip hats left from last summer will find
them useful this year, rs they viii readi-
ly lend themselves TO all that is new in
the late importation. Gyspy hats are
very largely imported i'll the most eoquet-
fish shapes, to be worn well back on the
head, with the sides tied down, and the
front projecting in poke shape Then
there are hats with halo brims that frame
the face and show off handsome hair, as
they are 10 be merely perched on the
back of the head; and there are turbans
of various shapes, to be worn in front or
far back On the head, according to the
taste Of the wearer.
Ribbons will be fonnd much used for
trimming bonnets, and for this purpose
are shown in three widths, known to deal
ers rs Nos. :. II, and - and varying from
one and half to three inches in breadth.
Satin ribbons are shown in great variety,
and are especially handsome when
double-fa in the new way that makes
inc HFOlp Sltie SAaCtiN llht inc lASui. VI
rather does away with wrong side alto
gether, so that the ribbon may be twist
cd and turned in fashion, which is n desi-
rablc thing, and withal economical, in
making bows, loops ami roscttcs. These
double-faced satin ribbons are strewn
with irregular dots of cashmere colors on
a contrasting ground; thus the grounds
are japanese blue, or turquoise, hello
| trope, red, brown or black, dotted with
creamy Isabelle pink or maize. Striped
ribbons are also shown III two shades OF
satin, or else i'll contrasting colors IN
most capricious arrangements, such as
bronz with gold, or else sapphire blue
with gold, pink with blue, garnet with
cardinal, or red with old gold; The new
colors that are developed i'll these impor-
tations are Isabelle yellow-the historic
Spanish color-pheasant brown, and the
new shades that have purple for their
base and recall the lilac. lavender, mauve,
violet and heliotrope tints For millinery
purposes the old fashioned lustering NIB
bons are revived; these are of the smooth
silks which the French call tatfetas, and
are now shown with tape-hke borders, or
with feathery edges, i'll many of the
styles used twvIit, years ago. They are
very pretty IN coachmans drab, argent
and pheasant brown shades. Very soft
satin duchesse or mcreiNieuSs ribbons
| have changeab,e colors through the cen
tire, with border stripe 'if full satin on
the edges. Again, there are armure-
striped ribbons that are double faced,
satin and gross grain, with the stripe like
a broken cord The Oriental figured RIB
bons come in new quaint colors that are
more nearly modelled after the japanese
/ than the cashmere colors of the Winter.
Very rich Gobelin ribbons are shown
that appear to be literal copies OF stripes
of Old tapestries, and there are polka
/ dotted and damasse ribbons that have
/ but one thing i'll common, VIZ, the soft
/ pliablencss that makes them easily twist
/ ed and turned into knots and bows. Ex-
perienccd millincrs write from Paris OF
| the decided preference among designers
/ for the pheasant brown shades that com
bine well with shades of buff, such rs
I Tuscan and Isabelle, OF the light purple
tints. The soft silks for trimming the
crowns of bonncts come in the twllied
lustrous fabrics known MS satin duchesse.
OF as satin sublime, and are represented
Ill light cashmere combinations as well
as III the new plain color5.
Fichus and bartes Of black III OF white
Spanish lace are to be used TO Lrape sum
mer bonnets, just as they haze been dur
ing the Winter ON opera bonrcis. Those
richly beaded with pearls or with jet will
I be preferred. but Il great deal Of Spanish
lace will be used without beads There
are also beaded crowns on tu!le prepared
, i'll rainbow beads u:' well as in black and
white The beaded lace sarniiurcs sod
in trimming widths are probably the
handsomest ever Brought to this country.
The net is fine tTlle. and there Is no pat
tern of the lace wrought III the tulle to be
merely outlined with beads, bEi IN The
contrary. the fine beads form the design,
and instead of merely outlining the pat
tern, the whole figure 90 the flower, palm
leaf OF arabesque is :ncrustcd with beads.
Some of tn, Sc are S. or IS va-d III the
wholesale houses. Insertions are beaded
10 match the designs of the lace edges.
For creamy lacsa the Languclcc point Is
shown in the dark ocru !ints now called
T-ol.1l.