The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1879-12-05
FASHION NOTES.

The Indian cashmeres, embroidered
In gold, cost $40 yard before i'm
ported.
Gold and silver are wrought into
the white brocades used for bridal suits
Rich chameleon silks in contrasts Of
olive and gold are revived.
-ROsettes are preferred to loops fol
fastening the drapery of black silk
dresses.
Waists made with very sharp points
are an odd design of French dress
making.
-Bonnets of chenille and beads, both
in black and in cOlors, will be worn this
season.
Thread lace of many colOrs has
been imported for the use Of the MILL
ners.
Black silver is fashionable, and rrl-
bics, cmeralds or diamonds set in it
have an uncommon luster.
Silver bands for the throat are worn
in place of necklaces and pendant
brooches take the place of scarf-pins.
Seal skin will be made into dolmans
instead of jackets this year. The gar
ments may be bordered with silver otter
and lined with scarlet or old gold.
The newest Partisan note-paper has
the monogram set on a medallion of
dark blue or black paper and pasted on
the top of each sheet of paper and sur
rounded by gold border.
The stuffs prepared for hat and bon
net trimmings are very rich, both in
color and texture. Shot goods, velvets
with threads of a different color in the
pile, printed fOulard and brOcade inter-
woven with gold threads, are among the
new materials.
GENERAL REVIEW OF FASHIONS.
Paniers, instead of being more vo-
luminous, are extremely moderate; and
when palmer, smoother appearances are
preferred, paniers are dispensed with.
Princesse dresses, though long familiar,
hold their place more firmly than fresher
modes have done, and are chosen for
full dress, and the general use of rich
and snowy fabrics. All of the peculi-
arities which distinguish new designs are
those of harmonious combination; some
times the best results are produced by
the use of color, and again the beauty
Of the costume will be due to its taste
full trimming. Vests, basques, paniers,
and a round waist with a tablier or
apron front are each and all simulated
upon the plainest princesse model. The
rage for shirring, which seems to be on
the increase, has extended to princesse
dresses, and even the flounces are shir-
red at intervals in perpendicular clusters
of two or three gauging threads, throw
ing the intervening sections into puffs.
For the most dressy occasions such a
princesse costume will be laced at the
back, instead of closing at the front, the
latter portion being opened in surplice
form and filled in with point-lace and
tulle, with bouquet of some one flower
at one side. The overskirt drapery
which forms part of such dress con-
sists of two folded scarfs which extend
from the panier at the back and cross
in front Just above the founces. the
upper half of the skirt front having
panier scarf draped high over the hips
and shirred widely at the center
front. These draperies are all
trimmed with lace, the scarfs
upon both edges, the panier upon the
lower edge only. The back of the skirt
shows an extremely bouffant drapery
composed of the scarfs which trim the
front. The foundation of such toilette,
which is the chosen style for full dress,
is the plain princesse, and this is made
to represent the round waist, and is fin
ished with elbow sleeves. The novelty
of the season in polonaises is the design
which is intended for ladies who do not
select coats, basques, and jackets as
their first choice. 1t is also intended for
the street, and for formal visiting, in
which case it is made of velvet, or the
richest fabrics of silk and wool. The
front, with one dart only, is double
breasted, closing with two buttons and
sloping away at the waist, disclosing a
long, slender vest, cut in o.
point at each side. The long
front then forms a curved drapery
with the plaits caught within the seam
which unites the side-forms to the GEN.
ter; the remaining drapery extends full
length over the skirt of the costume.
Coat-sleeves, large pockets, and mas
culine collar and lapels are harmonious
points used in finishing this seasonable
and stylish garment, which is sometimes
made of vicuna cloth, or camel's-hair
suiting, and worn over velvet, corduroy,
or skirt made to match the polonaise
itself. Basques are now of every posi-
BILE form and kind according to the uses
for which they are intended. Vests,
narrower than they have been, are gen.
orally plastrons-that is, made
by laying vest-piece directly
over the centers of the basque proper,
and are cut to a point; or they have
point upon each side-front. The backs
are cut square like the habit coat and
habit basque, and fans are inserted in
the side-form seams, even when these
same side-forms are turned back to
make revers. Panier effects are still
admired upon basques, and these are
either included within the design itself,
being formed by extending the side
bodies, ETC., or else they are supple
mentary pieces which are placed under
the pointed front, and carried over the
hips in plaits or folds. Two kinds of
round waists now prevail; one is the
simple shirred waist with rows
of gauging at the shoulders and
the waist; the other is the plain round
waist with habit or coat-shaped extern