Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-03-15
NOTES ON THE WAY.
Sailing in Summer Seas.
On THE MEDITERRANEAN,

S"fhhDS Ahh SOttSs
On THE MEDITERRANEAN,
January, 1879.
1t has long been matter OF doubt with me
whether any sea voyage is worth the taking,
that is merely as sea voyage, and for Its own
sake, except to an invalid, and under the ad-
vice OF physician, and very competent one
at that. But If there is trip of the kind which
pays its way as it goes, so to speak. / take 1t
that the passage from Marseilles to Alexan-
dria, or at least so much of it as lies between
the first named place and the soutnernmost
extremity OF Italy, must be that happy excep-
ton.
The departure from Marseilles, If the weather
be at all pleasant, is sure to be attractive and
interesting in the highest degree. This great
Mediterranean seaport has not been called
"city of churches" so lar as / know; yet It SO
happens that the last objects which fill the eye
Of the traveller departing by water are buildings
dedicated to religious worship. The large and
handsome new cathedral, now In course OF con-
struction, is certain to challenge his attention,
for, oddly enough. it stands close down by the
waters edge, and not far from the principal
docks and basins OF the port, instead Of on high
ground and near the center OF population,
where one would naturally expect to find it. It
is Byzantine in style, of rather elaborate design
imposing in size, and built of black and white
marble in alternate courses. These stripes
give 1t somewhat bizarre appearance, but on
the whole the effect is not unpleasant, and it
will undoubtedly be very good when the colors
are somewhat toned down by time.
But even more conspicuous and striking than
the Cathedral, il not so large, is the singular
church or chapel which crowns the summit OF
the high and steep hill of Notre Dame de la
limits OF Marsellles and her heights are neither
few nor insignificant. The tall dome of this
prominent landmark is surmOunted by an i'm
mense figure OF the Virgin and Child, in burn
tshed gilt bronze. At ali hours Of the day this
shining group flashes back the rays of the sun
or stands out in strong relier against the clouds.
Ir1,n ahrrr
highly -priZed relics, and as 1t can be seen from
every point of view in the city, and is the last to
meet the gaze OF the sailor as he leaves port,
ard the first to meet his eyes ON his return it is
not strange that it is held in the highest venera-
ton, and regarded by the people OF MarSeilleS
as almost literally the abiding place OF their
Guardian Lady.
FROM MARsEILLEs TO NAPLES.
The entire coast OF the Gulf Of Lyons, a deep
and well protected indentatlon of which forms
the harbor Of Marseilles is succession OF steep
rugged heights and bold barren headlands.
Near the shore,-in the neighborhood of Mar
seilles, at least,-lie many rocky islands, ap-
parently of volcanic origin. Indeed the shores
the same indications. Nearly all these heights
and islands are covered with towers and forts,
which add considerable scenic effect to the
views, especially In the eyes Of travellers &C
customed to quieter phases OF nature and less
display OF military equipment. One of the most
inaccessible and also one OF the most strongly
S, fys
is pointed out as being famous for having once
been the place OF imprisonment OF Mfrabeau.
tsee French historyl
on the Mediterranean, is passed in plain sight,
followed In quick succession by Hyeres, Can
resorts Of inyalids lining the shores OF the Gulf
OF Genoa. These places are all well protected
by high hills in the rear from the cold winds
which sweep down from the mountains In the
q rtrnkn H.,rt
this feature little could be seen from ship board
OF the charms Which they must possess to bring
hlther the same people year after year, as
many OF them do.
The next morning after leaving Marselllas
the first object that meets the eye, at a short
distance On the right, Is the steep and rocky
birthplace OF the great Napoleon. At first
sight the whole island seems barren and inhos-
pitable to the last Degree but a more careful
Inspection shows that every little gorge and all
waited. Soon afterward Elba, equally famous
as the place where the ''little Corporal" was
imprisoned and from which he escaped, to give
Europe fresh tr1bulation, comes into view on
the left. Seen at distance from the deck OF q
passing vessel, one does not wonder that any
one who could do so should escape from Elba.
and many cosy looking homesteads are seen
situated on warm sunny slopes, surrounded by
well cultivated gardens and fields. Next come
the Islands OF PlanosO and ForncOle on the
right, and then Monte Cristo, the scene OF
Dumas popular novel OF the same name 1t
rises out OF the sea like an immense dome OF
granite, and at distance seems TO be nothing
bnt solid mass of rock.
A DOREsoUE PICTURE.
AS we passed this island it presented one OF
the most striking spectacles 1 have ever en-
Joyed. The sun went down in a red blaze, just
behind it, bathing the sea in every direction In
n HOOD OF lurid light; thus projecting the dark
beyond. The outline was, of course, sharply
and distinctly drawn; but every thing else
was dim and obscure, giving wide play to
houses and fields, il any, were all lost in the
common gloom. The whole picture was in
sense Dosaue IN "a ana
as the home Of tragedies and romances OF the
weirdest SORT
Besides these have mentioned, other rocky
islands, too numerous and insignificant In size
to be named, lie on every hand. They are by
no means to be despised on those accounts, how
ever, for they add wonderfully to the variety
and charm OF the voyage. Formed generally, 1
should Judge, OF a yellowish-red lava -colored
rock, they stand out clean cut and bold from
the blue sea In which they lie, and, trimmed In
as they are, with lines OF breaking surf on every
side, they CLEAN under the warm bright rays of
the sun like bits OF fiery topaz set In frame
phire. Every furloDg forward shows new and
different views, which the eye never tires Of
watching.
THE APPROACH TO NAPLES.
Early the second morning the bold and pic
turesque islands which hem in the ever lovely
bay of Naples rise out OF the sea like realized
dreams OF fairy land, First Ischia, next Viva
ca, and then Procida, on the left, with far
famed Capri on the right,-all castle-crowned
and lovely as ever sung by poet or painted by
Artist These are quickly passed. and the an
chor is dropped In the center OF scene which
surely must be as fair as any the sun shines on.
VI Naples, proper, / can say but little. Our
stay was too short to allow the luxury of sight
seeing IN anything like satisfactory way. A
row 10 shore, followed by couple OF boats
filled with street or rather, should say, with
bay musicians, who made the air resonant with
gay songs q short and hurried drive through a
portion OF the city; a lunch at one OF the noted
cares, washed down with generous glasses of
Lachfy'na Chrysti; a chatter with the fruit and
Hover Venders; back to the ship again, with
music on every side,-these brief experiences,
which left vague confusing impression, much |
like peep through living and vocal kaleIdo. |
scOpe,-afe all know OF Naples as yet
But after the cold and disagreeable weather |
we had found in England and France, it was |
IT al pleasure to sit on deck In the warm bright
sunshine and clear atmosphere the remainder |
OF the afternoon, and gaze on the beautiful pic
tules which lay Oh every side. The summit of |
NeSuVluS was hid from view all day by veil OF !
cloud, but elsewhere everything was bright and |
nlstlnct, and enough could be seen, even during |
our ShOlt stay, to understand fully how Naples |
ana her matchless envfrOnS hold the admiration |
OF the world. AS said, my stay was brief, Yet |
during that brief stay had opportunities for |