The Newtown bee., 1879-06-25
Summer Fashions.

last. This summer we are having new entirely new-styles, both i'll materials and in the manner in. which they. are made up. Mummy cloths, satteens, percales, calicoes, batistes, printed linens, lawns and organdies, the grena- dimes, debeiges, and even the white dress materials, all come out in new forms, and designs. The styles, too, in which they are made up are novel and striking in the highest degree.
 Basques are not abandoned, but the fashionable basque is worn over waist coat or has simulated waistcoat formed by plastron on the front, and has long. double point before, tapering upward over the hips. and made either short in the back or falling in square postillions more or less trimmed. Below this basque is worn short round skirt when the dress is intended for outdoor service, and this skirt is made thus: at founces, arranged in piaits, shirrings or shells, according to fancy. Above these are draperies, taking the place of an overskirt, and composed of a tablicr, side plastrOnS, and back draperies, and these again are headed by scarfs which simulate the paniers of the reign of Louis XVI and the days of the unhappy Marie Antoinette. When we say simu- late we do not mean that they are actual reproductions of that style of dress ornamentation. As yet these paniers are in their incipiency; but before the end of summer few ladies will have new material made up without ordering these panier scarf draperies, in some form, to appear on the hips of their dresses. In Paris it is even now the fashion to wear panicr draperies composed entirely of flat-lying artificial flowers on evening, ball and bridal dresses. The panier is always punched in plaits high under the back draperies or under the posJillions of the short basque.
 Two materials, and frequently three or more, are used in the composition of all stylish costumes, and one of the ma terials is always peki'ae or striped. When these stripes are sprinkled over with flower, leaf or other designs they are called Pompadour stripes, and nothing is more fashionable than these.
 Another sure indication ofthe change in styles are the mantles which are worn in preference to sacques or dol mans. All fashionable wraps are short in the back and on the shoulders, and very long in front. The ends in front may be rounded, pointed or square, but the longer they are the more fashionable, you may may be sure, the garment Is considered The sacque fchuis an exam ample of this kind of wrap. It is really a cape falling in a point to the waist line in the. back, very short on the shoulders. reaching only to the top of the arm, while the long, curved ends cross on the bosom in front, and are fastened under a bow of ribbon or silk in the back just over the t0a1r7aatre. Rich fringe, at least a quarter of a yard in depth, and com posed of alternate sections of crimped tape and silk twist with strands of cut jet at intervals, trims the sacque jIchu all around.
 These are only two examples of prevailing styles of garments. The va riety is endless, and never did women have so large and diversified field to choose from what they would wear as at the present. Of one fact, however, they ought to be warned. Dress has resolved itself into three styles for three different occasions. The street or outdoor dress, which is invariably short; the indoor home dress, or dress for informal and unceremonious occasions, which should be demi-trained, and the evening dress, which must be long trained, and have a real or simulated Pompadour or low neck and elbow or short sleeves. Again, the dancing dress for young ladies must be short, and in modified Marie Antoi- nette style, while matrons who dance must be content to walk through a quad lille or lanciers in their trained robes. But no matter what the age of a lady may be. she wears nowadays, if she IS fashionable woman, short dress whenever she walks abroad, whether in the street or on her own lawn, or in the garden.
 In addition to the old-time favorite sheer dress materials, the lawns, grena- dimes, organdies and bastites, there is a very cheap fabric that has come into use this summer. It is ''cheese cloth, ]" the identical diaphanous cotton cloth used to wrap around cheeses as they go into the press. It costs only four cents a yard, and is from thirty-six to forty two inches wide. Twenty yards make the fullest kind of dress, kilt-plaited founces and ruffles, paniers, ptastroaas and all. The approved trimming for cheese-cloth dresses is cotton, bandana plaid, Madras handkerchiefs cut into bias bands, pipings and bindings: The gayer the plaid and the larger the better. The handkerchiefs are only thirty cents apiece, and it. takes less than three to cut the bands, pipings and bindings neces- sary for a dress.
 First cousins to these cheeSe-cloth dresses are suits for children made of un- bleached domestic, and trimmed with bandana handkerchief bands. They are made up as kilt and blouse suits, and are exceedingly pretty, cheap and servicea- ble.
 Large quantities of Madras and Scotch gingham, and checked and striped goods, are also made up for children in the same style, or in the gabrielle fashion of the last season with one deep flounce orsev- eral smaller ones at the bottom.
 Color in dress seems actually gone mad this summer. All colors are fash ionable, and in any desired combination