The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-03-06
lHarper's Bazaar !
New York Fashions.
SPRING MILLINERY.

suLLiNEhI.
Fresh importatious Of rich millinery show
many novelties not yet mentioned. BonDets Of
satin-fDished straw, of the yellow-tinted Tas-
eau bisiis, fine Leehorn. and fancy brsids in
lace-like patterns are brought over from the
best Partisan houses. There are also tinted
French chips in shades to match the new
spring costumes, such as pale blue and dark
blue tan, beige, aud cream colors, also brown,
gray, black and dark green. These come In
the large fisrng bonnets that will bs cousid-
cred most dressy, and also in the close cottage
shapes that are becoming to most faces, aud
are liked with simple costumes. Tue round
hats are usually Of black or white chip, but
these are also shown in colors. The dressy
shapes have the wide rolling brims in Peg
Wofiugton shape, or the Turenne, or Devon
shire. For palmer hats for city use the turbsss
and English shapes will prevail. Turbsus are
as popular in Paris as they are here, but are
worn low on the forehead instead of on the
back Of the head, as is the custom here. Some
turbans have round crowns, while others are
Ddented from front to back.
A new shade of blue used in satns and in
ribbons is called gendsrme blue, and has green
tints like the peacock blue. The new red is
brighter than cardinal, and is known as Prince
of Wales red. The colors that will b. most
generally used are tan, cream and beige with
some light yellow tints, and the feature Of the
season will be the use Of these colors 10 very
light tints frightened BY combining them with
very dark red or blue. Thus the ribbon on the
bonnet will be dark gendsrme blue and the
flowers the palest cream colors, or else the
-
dark red srtemisias in two or three shades.
Soft twilled satin will be much used for trim
mine, cut bias from The piece. and arranged
irreg gulariy in loops and broken pleats, not in
set bows and stiff folds Itis also tue choice
material for facing bIims Of bonneis aud of
round hats where 1t appears snickly gathered
in large shirrs on cords or reeds, or else 10 very
| fine shirtiog. RIBBONS for striDgs aud for pass
| ing across crowns are widec than formerly,
| measuring from three TO four inches; those
with twilled satin on one side aud gros grain on
| the other, and of the softest quality, shown
| IN ali the new tan, Cream, blue and red shades.
Another novelty Is black Brussels net em-
| broidered on the edges with old gold OF oivs
silss in leaf pattern; this is folded double for
| strings and an Alsacian bow oG black lace oon-
| nets Crocheted lace in ecru tiuts of silk AID
| of wool is also new for trimming Tuscan aud
| chic bonnets. Stitl another novel trimming l.
| cloth Of gold with The tinsel frosted over it:
this is used for iacings and trim usings II black
bobnets great many embossed silks are
1 also shown.
| Flowers aud feathers viii both b. used.
White aud cream colored ostrich plumss are
| much used on light chip boonets and ia new
| ways. Sometimes they appear in the three
| feathers of the PriIce If Wsles, clustered 10
getber, curved nearly double and uoddug to-
| ward the fro0t OF the bO0net. Ga the dressy
/ large boDuets there often two long Mercu-
| ITO ostrich plumes. one Of which Is posed TO
hang very low down on the shoulder The
left side; the other wsnders at will over the
| Orim or crown. The oUly trimming needed
| with these is some soft irfeguisry folded satin
| on the right side, but there is USUALLY bou-
| quet also low down on the right. Very tue
| willow feathers are tippei with straw. The
| feathers OF the impeysn and of other blue
| green green-blue birds have been STIR pped
| and formed into nam moth butterflies of bees
| Dark green les yes for trimmisg white bonnets
are m ade up OF the neutra!-tlnted breasts Of
| brmming birds.
| Very large flowers will be used especially
roses and chrysantheWums. These srs made
/ OF silken petals or else OF transparent Grape.
The roses or the chrysautbemums form q
wreath for the crown, are without any foliage,
and are so large that only six or eight roses
are used, and these are two shades of deep red
or else pale dlnk with tes-roses. There are
also moss wreaths with red berries in them,
and wFesths Of green leaves of fine Grape beau-
| tfulty veiDed. Bouquets of wild roses or of
rose-buds and mignonotte, are also shown; the
| buds have long stems of rubber tuping and ara
| tied to show the stems couspcuously ST. Ell
| beads are struDg on the edges of brms, and
there are many pretty ornaments Of polished
steel and gilt.
The trimming is very simply yet tastsfully
arranged. A fine Tuscan bonnet with fAIing
brim hiss merely one long white Mercutio
| plume droopipg low on the left shoulder, and
| fastened high on the side bv irregularly
lOoped bow of cream satin Tiboon. The brim
has no wire in the edge, and is bare inside at
least an iDcb; then the facing is set oo, and
quite under the brm on the left is q bunch of
wild roses Of pink and cream shades. A slmi-
lar bonnet of Leg born has a black velvet facing
inside, and dark red and yellow artemisias
while outside is folded satin and ecru crocheted
lace, with q single long ostrich plume
sstin-tiDished straw bonuet of cottage
shape is tan-colored, and has q wreath of
Prluce OF Wales shaded roses A black chip
b)nnet with Marie Stuart indeuted brim has q
torsade aud facing of cloth of gold, while out
SIDE are many rose buds, aud soft black satin
ribbon,
Madame Virot retains her fame for making
black honnets. This season they are a net
| found atop, with double Aisscian bow Of black
| satin aud old-gold bbon, s0d vile striogs Of
BRUSSELS net On orodered with old gold Her
dressy white chip bonnets have two pleatings
| of white Breton lace covering the brim, aud a
| wide bsi be for bow on the crOwn aud str Dgs
| A white willow feather with straw t,ps is Ia ro-
setie shape on top, and there dark green
feather leaves for ornament. Other white CD ps
IN cottage shape have the new blue riDoon for
boz and strings. With quiliings of Br tou lace
on the Orim, aud the three Pfiuce If Wales
feathers placed hig h on the lefg side to curl O.
ward The front Inside the btim IS shiIred
blue facing aud some sItemisiss Of Grape.
A few mornings since NJ SIS Julia Stauley, q
maiden lady, died very suddenly at her home