The New York herald., 1879-03-10


There is no doubt that the present popularity of
brocades. used in combination with plain silk vel
proper Nevertheless the latter class of fabrics are
always in demand American brocades are i'll high
favor, the supply for spring being more varied and
beautiful than ever. The new designs show exceed
ingly handsome figures. The spring styles in
troduced in all the fashionable colors including sew
eral varieties in garnet shades navy blue drab wood
color and ''ivery" color which has been popular
during the winter. and when combined with velvet
matching in shade forms rich ss ana s ele-
cade can be had at 81 so per yard. All
silk satins of American manufacture mar will also
shown in variety of coors for day and evening
and those in dark shades. sprnkled with white
texture. drape gracefully. do not "crumpe" easily
and twenty-five inches wide. Their price ia
about 81 80 per yard There is variety OF shades In
blue. and the black. with white polka dot COM
bined with black velvet forms stylish costume.
sks arS a and
while others in small quiet paids are loosely woven.
whence the name, serge quadrillee. which has been
applied to them Pekin stripes shown in silks OF
color the satin and silk stripe alternating. Gui-
pure is the name given class OF open-work fabrics
Of silken texture Effective silks, either white or in
pale shades wrought ia jardniere stripes of me-
dum width.
Colors quite new and and strange the Canaque,
cannibal succession of copper shades. the name
being given from the resemblance to the copper COM
pexon tribe of cannibals Blue Is largely brought
forward. and appears in many different shades; but.
with the exception of the dark marine blues the
apparent The most pronounced blue of the
is called sapphire and this but for overcastng Of
green would be revival Of that positive blue which
for long has been consigned to oblivion. Gen
darme is dark shade of military blue, and other
Savrss Oh Baltic blue almost and the clear pae
blues too attractive to be reinquished. Yellow
finds good representation in the new spring colors.
but tho shade most in favor is old gold.
Pale yellows by no means ignored. and In new
flowers excellent results are produced by shadings
from pale yellow into reddish tints. The beige
shades also appear frequently Garnet and wine
shades have taken new lease of life. and are
brought forward everywhere and in all shades,
from such as deep to almost into black
up others resembling the pale red of lighter Wines
Pivoine (peony) is combination of garnet and
plum color. Vicssy rouge is a new bright red. Dark
plum is not extensively employed yet serves as a
fashionable color The lighter shades of prune are
not I0ich seen. This place to have been
usurped by the wine coors but it is in the paou pea
cock colors of the day that the greatest mixtures
and changeable hues appear.
NEW STYLES IN TRIMMING
Prominent in the list of choice trimmings are the
of the designs already familiar while the more
pensye grades represent leaf patterns OF various
forms. with perfectly executed tulips or fuchsias de-
pending from the centre OF the leaf. Some of the
passementeres are relieved and frightened by q
delicate tracery of gold or silver threads inter-
spcrsed as to form arabesque or Grecian designs
throughout the pattern. The effect Is rich, but by
no means gaudy, and the styles and prices such
as to render these goods rather exclusive, for time
at least. These cost FROM $5 to Sl2per yard Painted
bands for dresses are Of exquisite design and
tistc beauty. These are painted by hand valvet.
satin and SILK Flowers in all their richest
tints birds of brilliant plumage jewels shells and
musical instruments are painted with skill and
fidelity to nature these beautiful and artistic
trimmings. Fringes have by no means lost their
prestige and may he had in as great diversity OF de-
sign there is diversity of TASTE The average depth
of fringes is from four to six inches, includ-
ing the heading. An entirely new fringe is
formed of a hand crocheted heading. background Of
twist front of crinped tape and bands of pas
sementcrie, nterspersed with strands OF crocheted
with tiny satin or crocheted bali This elaborate
fringe may be had at 50 per yard. Many
plain silk frnges are still sewed underneath the
edge a the goods and heading whatever is used
Woollen frnges longer considered fashion-
able although neat patterns are still sparingly
used on all wool garments where there ends
of drapery to be trimmed. Plain hens and rows of
machine stitching the most stylish finish on all
other parts OF all wool costumes. Fancy ribbons
are largely used loops. and in designs form
a complete cascade down the front OF o dress These
ribbons vary in width from half inch to ten inches
and half and OF all colors and shades of satin,
with lizards. flowers. fern leaves and other devices
composed Of gilt and silver bullion. and fine silk
floss woven into the ribbon. The price ranges from
twenty live cents per yard up.
For trimming evening dresses. crystal. pearl and
white satin beaded and bugled laces snowy and
effective and cost from So per yard up. Spanish
blond IL kind of lace usually employed. and the
beads follow the pattern OF the lace, either covering
it entirely or only defining the outline Embroidered
silk muslin is much used for the garniture OF dressy
toilets and comes in new and choice designs Price.
81 to x25 per yard "Self' trimmings follow up
hoIstering designs, and often put without
fulness, but cut out either in round square or
pointed designs the lower side and faced bound
with acontrasting color finished with fringe.
Tasses in upholsterng effects then placed to fall
in tho opening made by the cutting out. pekin, q
striped material of satin and silk or satin and velvet
Is much used Tor trimming. and Is cut out so that
the stripes either horizontal or pcrpendicular
rather than bias. this being used garniture for
the of the skirt for collars. cuffs vest any
accessory trimming desired.
Olive and barrel shaped hand-crocheted buttons,
either all silk or combined with jet. will be much
used ON garments trimmed with passementere.
Wood buttons. hand-painted in gold and colors. are
very choice light ana effective and cost from thirty
five cents per dozen up. French horn, both IN the
natural color and dyed. inlaid with gold and
pearl raised designs. representing stars. flowers.
birds. beasts, reptiles, fishes and fowls. Crystal
glass buttons, sometimes called "Rhinc pebbles"
are introduced. These cut in facets and In
pIatna, and have a most brilliant effect at night;
the prices vary seventy five cents per dozen up
Medium sizes only. in any kind of button. fash
ionable and the quantity used is totally dependent
upon the style of the garment. some requiring only
what will fasten the vest, and others. sufficient
number to outline the cuffs. pockets. &c.
NEWEST PARAsoLs.
Novelties being daily brought forward in
umbrellas and parasols An entirely new style is
the polka dot borders. which are destined to share
were introduced in coaching parasos last season.
but the .polka dot borders tho latest novelty.
They are of satin in variety OF colors and the
borders show alternate of stripes and polka
dots. Those in navy blue. tho fashionable greens
and black satin with white dots with satin stripes
and ..polka dot borders particularly attractive.
These all finished in choice handles of pearl or
ivory in variety of designs. tipped with gold aud
otherwise ornamented. very pretty and cconomi-
cal parasol is in black satine with satin stripes and
satin borders. They are novel. tasty. scrvccable.
harmonizing with the Pekin stripes in dress
material and decidedly superior to the all silk
umbrellas that made of poor quality of silk.
These are handsomely mounted, and the most
fastdious taste find qualification from goods of
this class.
onSAMEs1AL MEDLEY.
Crystal Is the leading novelty this season m the
way of ornament. The crystal is. however,
very different from that which has sometimes borne
the same name. since it has nothing of peary white
ness but Is clear like glass, being indeed. nothing
more than glass cut and dfashioncdnto various shapes
1t is conspicuous in millinery. belt clasps and
pins of various styles. New ornaments for the
hair show heavy balls of crystal fancifully dis
posed one these being three globes each the
end of a silver silver Is the favorite motal
employed ia combination, and although gold with
crystal Is seen, Ii is used to limited extent only
when compared with tile first named material New
silver combs finished by large crystal balls and
AMIN IN found "a single ball OF crystal, about the