Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-12-06
FASHION IN THE GRAVE.


Every dress INTENDED expressly for the dead
may be styled, genefically, a shrou1 Modern
usages, however. MAKES distinction according
''shroud" to those which are black or waite
and a. habit to those OF brown material Oaly
black, white. o. brown material Is uSel. Tnere
are large shops for the manufacturer OF dcesses
for the dead as for clothing for the living. TIE
manufacture sells TO the Undertaken. He uslal-
ly makes coffilS and co lin trimmings aud very
thing that he sells to the undertaken Is, as rule
sold for just half Of the retail price, and often
for less than half. A lawn shroud that is re-
tail to the mourner for S. costs the undertaken
usually 80 cents. The undertaken often waits
Tor his pay. and frequently he doesn't survive
the waiting time. So he makes his sales on a
basis OF large margins for losses. In that
way he manages 70 counterfeit the eTect
upon him OF the grief that he sees, and he
doesn't die Of sorrow accommodating within him
In the larger maniac tories from which the
undert aker gets his supplies, from Seventy-f1ve
to hundred different styles Of shrouds for
dead women are shown, and fifteen Or more
for dead men. The materials chiefly used are
merino and lawn. The trimmings are satin,
plain, stamped, or quilted; gimp, in folds,
crepe ltsSe and Of Oiher material, embroidery
and raised hosswoTk representing flowers, vines.
tendrils, and In notices. The style OF cut and
making follow to a considerable extent the pre-
vailing modes of dress for the living. The morn
ing dress pattern is largely used for women, and
the dressing gown for men-invariably with a
Uooolu pleCt. TUT lueu IL Is UQe usual SltrU
bosom and collar Of starched linen, often with
studs; for women the bosom piece is made accord
ing to fancy, regulated largely by the material
OF the robe The frequent use Of the patterns
above mentioned may be due largely to the fact
that they are easily put on because OF their large
sleeves and loose fit. They are open at the ack
from top to bottom, and, when put on, are fas-
tened at the neck. The sides are simply tucked
underneath the body.
Garments worn in life are frequently used as
grave clothes-a custom more prevalent in New
"a nor Of in 10 ntrty with,
the possible exception of Deadwood and some
other places, where sudden deaths and uncere-
monious burials are rather the rule. Boston
uses twice as many shroudS proportionately as
New York, which does not require more than
could be furnished by one or two manufactur-
ers. The greater number of the shrouds made
cities. The larger manufacturers usually oc-
cupy several stories. In the ground story coffins
of various sizes and descriptions are displayed.
The second story is used as a salesroom for
shrouds and coffin trimmings, by the yard and
made up; and in the stories above are manu-.
featured the articles displayed below. New
fashions in grave clothes are usually originated
by the ''forelady," as she is called in the estab-
iShment. The least costly ShrOud is Of black
lawn, and it sells at RETAIL ready made for 81
It Is trimmed with the same material, in puff
little used compared with those of other mate
rails. Prices OF Shrouds vary from that of the
simple robe, already mentioned, to $40 or more
Manufactures Of shrouds, coffins. and trim.
mtngs do not sell at retail. In former years
undertakerS often received orders for two or
three carriages filled with flowers; but within
the past two years this custom has been nearly
abandoned. The undertakers made very little
profit on these floral adjuncts.
In long, narrow room-nearly 200 feet long
in the second story of a mandatory Of un-
dertakers' supplies, were shown shrouds for
men and for women, in great numbers and va
r1ous styles. A shroud Of new design Just
brought down from the sewing room, was of
ntap,, Of
black satin folds trimmed at the side with box
plaits and milnerS folds, alternately of satin
and merino. Folds of the same kind around the
neck enclosed a satin-threaded crepe lisse ruche.
1t was finished at the throat with black satin
bow. The end of the sleeve was trimmed to cor
respond, and was softened with a crepe lisse.
In an open box on the counter was brown
habit. The bosom piece was Of white satin
with finger pufTs up and down. There were
gimp and edging at the sides, and box plats
with edging; around the neck, white satin bows
finished With trimming. A mans ShrOud was In
another box. 1t was trimmed with quilted
satin and raised floss work in the shape of
cross and leafy vine. There were a linen
bosom and collar and black cravat and bosom
studs: fold of satin answered for the vest,
and the shroud had the appearance of an elabo-
rate dressing gown for gentleman. Another
bosom OF another pattern, and folds to represent
vest showing two buttons. The shelves behind
the counter were filled with boxes of burial robes
dha n nng They We're labelled @
No. 25 front, color brown" Cashmere robe, No
IS front, color white;" the number designating
the style OF the robe. An 'old lady's shrouds
was in one Of the open boxes. 1t was OF black
cashmere, with folds crossing over the breast
the second fold narrow and of black satin;
pointed sleeve cuffs bound with black satin;
1oldS OF White lawn crossing diagOnally to the
left, across the breast; lawn bow at the throat
and at the wrists and around the neck, Widows
ruche." '.Style No. 81" was somewhat costly
The material was fine brown merino. Double
pufings were edged with white Satins, and edged
again with ruche Of tulle The plain white
satin breast piece had daisy buttons'-buttons
with white satin center and loops of white silk
thread around it-down the middle. At the
throat was white satin bow, edged, and around
the neck tulle ruche. The robe retails for $780,
Quilted to the bottom it would cost $40, and a
cord and taSSel would come with it. Quilting is
more expensive trimming than pulling, for
more time is required to make it. Ordinarily a
shroud has about two feet OF trimming, and the
cost is about one third as much as when trimmed
The. woman employed in the manufactures
work by the piece. They make two shrouds
the simpler. The girls who stitch the seams on
sewing machines earn S. a week. Generally
the same hand makes the entire shroud, doing
the machine and the hand work, and earning
S12 week. The "forelady" does the cutting
Her salary is, on the average, SIS week. The
cutting is not delicate task, for shrouds are
are tucked under at the back and care Is taken
TO have them large enough for person of ordi-
nary size The women work in the mandatory,
and choose their own hours, generally going to
work at about in the morning and Quitting at
In the afternoon. They bring their luncheons
and take about twenty-five minutes 1ntermiS-
sion for eating it. Some of the girls work only
on s. head-lintngs," which extend from the head
of the coffin to the break at the shoulders These
girls learn to work notices and ingenious fig
ures, stitching them entirely with Sewing ma
chineS.-N. Y. SIM.
Men, Women and Religion.
Tenderness and its outcome. pity, are as in
separable from true manlineSS as true womlnlt-
ness. Quickness and delicacy OF perception are