The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-04-03
[Harper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
BONNETs AT THE OPENINGS,

LIE pllVaGe mllnnefS nave had their first
opening of spring bonnets at which are dis
played the shapes and styles selected from
among large importations at the wholesale
houses. For early spring wear in the city, it is
said, the small cottage bonnets will be retained,
while the larger shapes will be chosen later in
the season for the picturesque head.coverings
worn at the watering places and seaside resorts.
The newest cottage bonnets, after casping the
head closely, roll upward in the brim Just
above the forehead and low down behind the
crown. This roll is scarcely an inch deep, yet
when covered with shirred satin it makes the
small bonnet much more dressy than were the
fronts worn during the winter. The best Par
isian miliners have sent out this new shape in
the most expensive braids. trimmed with the
richest materials used this season, Cactus
b7aids and yellow Tuscans are almost as large.
ly imported as chip bonnets ard are considered
more elegant. While cream and ecru satins
are most generally used for trimmings and for
facing brims one of the most fashionable Par
isian milliners put dark facings in nearly all
her bonnets, using especially Prince of Wales
red and myrtle green satin; bat such bonnets
have invariably light trimmings on the out.
side, thus combining light and dark colors in
the way noted early in the season. Dragon
fes made Of brillants ornament some of the
most expensive bonnets; there are also many
horseshoes, crescents, and buckles of these
brilliant crystals used by the bst milliners.
Some of the new roses are as large as a peony,
though not so brilliantly colcred; pale yellow.
cream, and pink roses are shown in these
q rnfh oi1ao nd us ~1o
transparent Grape foliage is placed on the left
side or very low down on the crown. Smaller
roses, yet still of good size come in clusters of
nine in the different shades Of Prince of Wales
red and are massed together around the sides
and top of the crown but not below it. Poppies,
both single and double are used in the same
way. New marabout feathers are finished on
the tips with bits of mother-of.pearl. Silver
wheat and silver cord are also used, especially
on black bonnets, and there are some yery
handsome bonnets with brims made of gold
braid
In glancing over millinef's collection the
great number of colored bonnets and the search
ty of black ones are evident. Aside from the
chip and straw ones already noted, there are
many made.up bonnets Of Canton Grape or of
thin Grape, OF crepe lisse of India muslin, Of
lace and OF flowers. The Canton Grape bounets
of rose pink, white, pale blue or cream color
have shirred brims and smooth crowns that are
round and more slOping than those shown in
braids. For trimming they have wide barbes
OF the new Ferreri lace, the point Raguse or
else OF breton lace held by crystal ornaments;
some very dark flowers or foliage clusters are
then added and there is almost universally a
marabout feather, or else three short ostrich
tips known as Prince of Wales feathers. In
some bonnets pleating of white lace is put
inside the brim, but the face trimming most
q Ctnota 1F
roses are also seen.
The flower crowns are an especial novelty
and will be used for dressy occasions in lieu of
the flower bonnets of last summer. These have
flowing brim of chip or Tuscan braid and the
entire crown is formed of roses crushed togeth.
er, from which small branches depend. The
prettlest rose crowns show pink and cream
roses together. Pansy crowns are also very
pretty with shirred brims of white crepe lisse
or else OF India muslin with lace or ribbon
strings.
To wear with dressy costumes of black or
colored silk or grenadine the preference is
given to Tuscan or chip bonnets with moder-
ately flowing brim, trimming of ecru or cream
satin, Breten lace strings, and knife psatipg
outside OF the brim; also a cluster of white
plumage and some dark large flowers.
DRESSES AT THE OPENINGS.
The first Openings at the large furnishing
stores display dresses with fiat front, aprons,
and shirred fronts in great variety, with but
one feature in common, viz the bouffant back
drapery. This abundant draping is shown in
the simplest white muslins as well as in the
dressy Pompadour foulards, and in the satin
toilettes that are draped with striped and bro
caded grenadines of the richest quality. To
vary these draperies and to make them intri-
cate seems to be the modistes' study, yet one of
the handsomest styles has the smples paniers.
Thus princesse fu!l-dress toilette of cream
colored satin has paniers Of pekin grenadine of
many brilliant c0lors, the gay stripes of roses
being separated by lace.like stripes of cream
color. The satin corsage is plain like a basque
several inches below the waist and the paniers
are then set on: This drsping is breadth
each side of the front sewed on below the hips
almost plainly, then caught up in cluster of
pleats high on the side seams, whence each
again descends, meeting in the back and ex.
tending all the way down tbe middle of the
train in soft billowy drapery. Across the front
breadths are alternate soft puffs of the satin
and grenadine, and the grenadine is also COM
bined with the satin of the houuce on the bot
tom.
The paner basques are seen on many short
dresses of muslin, or of wool or silk Most of
these are simply cut quite long and c1ught up
in pleats in the side seams to make the hips
look large; bouffsnt over-skirt is used with
these. There are also panier polonaises that
afford excellent suggestions to ladies who wish
| to remodel the long polonaises worn last year.
In many instances vest OF plain or Of shirrtd
satin is introduced in these, but others button
closely from the throat part of the way down,
while the lower end is curved open, and their
great length is caught up in deep pleats in the
side seams quite high on the hips other pleats
at irregular intervals are then taken in the
back OF the garment. SHRED satin vests of
cream-color or of gold are used with very dark
fabrics to make dressy toilettes. The preference
is given to contrasts in trimmings rather than
to shades of the prevailing color.
The Pompadour foulards in blight cclors are
made up in pretty bouffant dresses for the
house and for the summer resorts. They are
almost like prncesses wrappers, being all in
one piece, but they have panier basques, or else
polonaise effects shown on the fronts, while the
back will have broad cascades of lace and rib
bon. SHRED and festooned flounces are also
on these gay gowns.