New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1879-09-08
THE "a SHIONS.
DRY GOODS AND MILLINERY,

September, according 10 Fashions calendar,
Is the important the whole year; important to
all claases all trades well to merchants and mo-
dlstcs humbest artisan and the brilliant inventor
color shape The Wholesale and retail merchants
indulge m veest anticipations OF earlier, more
aud pfosp than they have enjoyed Tor
several years Dealers and orders far exceed those
OF It is difficult to Imagine new
cOlOrs for every tint and shade has been ex-
hausted. Still announced, such "a
Zuiu reddish brown; dauphiIgray, having tint OF
yellow; duckbresst blue. changing and brilliant
blue than the gendarmo; amaraDth. reddish purple;
coneque, golden copper color. and acajou OF the same
color shading iatO mahogany red; BOurgosne, plum
color With violet tinss Japoncas peacocks Breast ana
iolp de saug iier In addition 10 these new shades anu
familiar coors regppear, such as all warm wine
tns gold olives and the exquisite shades OF Au
tumns colorugs rich bronze cheyIot gold and other
glowing hues. In wool fabrics there IL an enormous
demand TOR satines having ustrous surface, and
nome cloth similar 10 the popular cotton goods
OF the same names. These show broche ana
rave arabesque designs wherein the brllent colors
In warp and wool blend together IN tho
mos: quiet and harmonious manner For instance, the
warp rich dark color garnet cOnadue, olive
brown or black shows threads IN the WOO o. mingled
white, buegrccn, yellow, scarlet blue aud purple.
These appear in checks, stripes, and give general
chene effect Another novelty Is the jacquard pihli,
which might be mistaken for tho regular tartan or
cashmere plaid. but Is widely different IN material The
colors are quite brilliant and the contrasts equally
great but the effects OF broken plads dice figures,
square, broken lines aud Gashes Of vivid cOlorings Ia
silk, threads OF gold, scarlet. brilliant blues yivchc
for old-fashiOned cherry and green mark the
difference These are also used for trimming the Jac-
guard corduroys. and plaid silks OF tartan colors.
Armures Of American manufacture promise to be
very popular In black and all manner OF
colors 1t Is limited that the passion Tor roush-sur
"a d,. In NJ gDoofier
such as cashmeros and SILK and wool mixtures In the
latter. the variety and quality are unsurpassed Cash
mere rInde this season with It's shining long
hairs On a and softer ground than that o. last
Il also appears In true Oriental colors, the plain
strange dull Indian blue for the nnderskrt and in the
warm rich min Cling Of ooOrs III palms of uny size, an
arabesque chain broken by little lozenge The dark
ground shot with yellow floss and gold thread and
myriads of colors blended like tho indian do
signs OF camel's hair shawl.
A close examination OF Of the silk and wool
fabrics discloses as many from six TO ten brilliant
coors all cunnniy blended together in perhaps
eofened, mellow shade Yet there VIII be visible count
less little fantastic shapes in exquisite ferns. fronds
and curling leaves. Chameleon silKs revived In
richest dyes IN such contrasts as olive and gCi dark
blue and gold, garnet and OldgOld garnet and blue,
bronze green and blue pomegranate pink and silver
gray, brown and duck's-breast blue dark green and
gold There are also black grounds which are brill
ternatiug with stripe OF the caaneeable
silk These two styles sometimes combined
In one costume. Other silks for Autumn
wear have brocaded stripes OF three contrasting
tnts One style has stripe OF narrow twilled
SATIN alternating with another, covered with lines and
curves Of floral designs some dark color IN high
relief on q bright, light surface These employed
for certain parts Of OF plain silk satin velvet
Notwit hstanding this brilliant Of beauty. black
silks and oashmeres by no means Abandoned. but
are being ordered and made up without added color. In
the panior poonaise basque ana trimmed skirt aud
an excellent new fashion VI overskirt and skirt,
made fastened to ono belt, also with basque.
Many VI the black silk dresses are combined with an
other black fabric. grOsgrain aud armure velvet
or gros-srain and satin superb Scotch plaid vel
vet and silk trimmings will be used ON back silk and
other black dresses for young ladies. the gay ban
ianna plaids have been contrasfed with white Dunngs
and cheese cloths Those plaid acccssions TO the dress
arc seen In panier scarfs belts, cuffs collars,
borders and pocket-bag depending from the bolt
The charm Of Autumn expositions consists mostly In
the bonnet materials and the early imported models IL
is difficult to describe them accurately without the aid
OF color TO bring before the eye, the contrasts
used strange yet picturesque. There seems To
be no rsdstOn in size The shapes either large or
small The Carmen maintains Its position among tho
large bonnets well the poke and cabr0le and the
Dlreotolre Tho large sbagos bonnet also revived
this surrounds Re halo, especially when 1t Is
lined with yellow shrrod ia The small bon
nets take ae capote shape and again there are some
yet unnamed with Just the semblsnce OF 'front.' Du'
making up for this deficiency by possessing a large
square crown. English trbans. the becoming Devon
shire, the Derby and many picturesque models are
shown among the impOrtetions.
The felt and silk beaver bonnets and hats receive
the frat attention FOR carly Autumn wear Gnd theirs Is
new addition in the fclts In the trini called brush
brrn" TIE Of the felt is simply brushed the wrong
way silk beaver hats shown IN yeowsh gray and
in black. Among the trimmings The croquole
velvet il conspicuous. This resembles the famous
croquele Chinese pottery the po being creased fiat
ened down In odd irregular lines This Will DO usrd
more trimmings and crowns 70 boDnes. and also Tor
dresses. Ribbons very wide and come IN chame-
leon or goabe cOors. Ottoman ribbons sometimes
have satin stripe running through the cenire these
have a very heavy rep. Then there are satin striped
ribbons and plain twilled heavy grosssn In al the
new shades.
To sasfy tho demand the destruction Of birds upon
bota Continents Is enormous. Birds ana feathers take
the place of flowers Some OF the birds nearly as
look painfully natural with bill apart, perfectly iml
tated Dyes and oustresehed egs and clawh Here aud
there poises Chinese kl1cnsAer, brilliant East In
dian corOu-cOfOu the purple red OF the tonager or the
CLINT OF tho large opbodo O. TIDY hunming birds az.
set "a clusters with heads Of laming IRE and breasts OF
ehrv -ophnse aud wings rosy brown sAfdOnyx. and
larger birds perch on the front Ot nat Win OUT
opal hucs and dasnes OF scarlet, Or plump Is
any servcd up broiicd toast In addition To tue
natural BIRDS thousands OF little honely gray BIRDS
ars sacrificed and dye scarlet. rbeD again sma par
riots Of CANDY crimson aEG green plumage enng 10
lille branch with strong claws and look out 0f yellow
eyes Ut their velvet and satin surroundings TIE
quantity OF parrots and the larger south american
proves the popularity ~ this brd for trim
ming purposes. In other eases the green aLj yellow
head and breast of parrot IL adorned with the long
s9eeplng tail plumcs Of the bird OF paradise A black
sstn bonnet Is edged with downy fuche OF black
feathers and large orangs-colored parrot Win ex-
tended claw lies helf around the crown.
One OF the gray brush-bum felt bonnets Is trimmed
win sut tvilled gray silk and cufled shaded ostrich
and lOphooorc Is perched upon tine side The
strings are very large and WIDE being made ~ doubled
ias ty;lled six Win narrow pleading CT BretOr lace
on he ends. crCQncle fuby velvet capote bOr
erlns Of gold cord edging vn richly beaded gaoon