Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1879-10-11
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
The Latest i'm Dresses and Varie-
ties for Ladies.
sHIRRED DRESSES, ETC.

Stirring, or, to use an old word reviv-
ed by French modistes, gauging, is
probably that most conspicuous feature
of Partisan costumes for the fall and
| winter. IL is not confined TO the plain
wool goods used for neglige blouse
waists, but is seen on corsages, sleeves
| and skirts of the richest fabrics; indeed,
all fabrics of soft qualities, such as satin
de Lyon, plain satin, Cashmere, and
| camel's hair are Ornamented with many
rows OF parallel drawing strings in large
| clusters that are from an eighth 10
quarter OF yard in depth. A costume
| illustrated on another page will show
| that this gauging is no longer confined
| TO the front breadths of skirts and 10
! founces, but is massed at the waist line
| i'm front and behind, and is seen in more
| shallow rows on the shoulders OF the
full bodice. On some French dresses
shirring finger deep passes entirely
around the waist in place OF using a
wide belt. 1t is seen on all bosom dra-
perry, and trims sleeves at the wrists,
and often at the elbows. One OF the
most fashionable WAYS of holding the
full breadths that are added TO the back
of trains to make them flowing is 10
shirr the top in many rows at least two
fingers deep, yet drawn together in very
narrow breadth. There are also over
skirts that have horizontal clusters OF
gauging on each hip to hold the panier
fullness. The way, however, in which
shirring is most seen is in the clusters
on the full bodice at the waist and
shoulders. There are many shirred
founces in which the gauging is both
lengthwise and horizontally drawn.
HANKERcHIEFs.
The pocket handkerchief for nice use is
of fine linen lawn with hemstitches TO
match that OF the linen cravat or neck
tie. Sometimes there is an inch wide
border of the drawn work above the
hem all around the square, while others
have triangular bits of this intricate
work in each corner. Palmer banker
chiefs for morning have hall inch hem
hemstitched, or else they are colored in
some odd design and quaint combina-
ton OF colors; on some pleated lrill
edged with scollops OF needle work is
the trimming. Breton lace and inser.
ton are used on more dressy handker-
chiefs. The lace, an inch and a hall
wide, is sewed on the edge plainly, with
the only iullness which is at the corners,
laid in small flat peats instead OF being
gathered; one or two rows OF Breton in
sertion are then let into the lawn with a
space OF an inch between. Very soft
hankerchieis for service are made OF
silk and linen spun together; they cost
sixty cents each, and are creamy white,
hemstitched hem.
HAND PAINTED LACE, ETC.
One of the novetis for trimmings this
season Is lace painted by hand in cash
mere colors and designs. II is shown
in both black and white; the black is in
Breton patterns, the thick figure is
painted japanese blue, or else old gold,
with red, olive or pale blue. The white
lace is woven in Mechin patterns, and is
most delicately tinted by the brush. Ii
costs from $50 TO s. yard, and is 10 be
used for jabots, neCkties, caps and hand |
kerchiefs. There are also bits OF hand /
painting on silk and on India muslin to
be made up with the white lace, and
already printed lawns in the same gay
colors are used for caps and banker
chiefs in imitation OF the hand printing.
The black cashmere painted lace will be
nsed for trimming black dresses that are
combined with the gay cashmere bro
cades \ great deal of jetted laces
shown for trimming in heavier designs
have been used Black Spanish lace is
also very largely imported. For COM
mon uses pOint'd Alencon lace is now
so well initiated in woven laces that the
most iastidious do not hesitate To use 1t.
DRESS TRIMMINGS AND BUTTONS.
Fringes, passemcnterie separate orna-
ments shaped To the figure, brande-
bourgs. cords, tassels, and painted orna-
ments for Gaping tassels are shown in
great variety for dress and cloak trim
mings. The fringes are very wide, with
Melted headings like the fringes on Cam
ton Grape shawls, or with heading like
ruches that dispense with the necessity
for any other heading; or else they are
made OF what is called curled chenille or
straight chenille, but which looks like
silk or satin ravelelcd in each edge. The
whaebone and tape iringes are also
shown again, and there are beaded
fringes of the finest cut jet, as well as
more snowy iringes made OF large beads
graduated in size. The passementerle
fringes are also very rich, and are made
OF leaf points of gimp that may be cut
in separate sections and used Us orna-
mcnts. The many Colored Cashmere
beads are also made up into fringes that
cost as much as rare laces The passe-
menteries are shown with straight edges
like gallOon, but most often they are IN
leaf, star, daisy, or trellis pattern; some
times there are alternate sections on
which hang jet or satin drops, while
others are very richly crOCheted paSSse-
menteries, and the incest are satin
grounds wrought with jet beads. There
are also Cashmere beaded passementc-
ries 10 match the fringes OF many cOlors.
The paSSCmentcric ornaments are shaped
like u pelcrine, or else round deep
collar, or perhaps vest front with one
or two pieces extending the whole |
length Of the back If the mantal, and .
ending in drop fringe. Perhaps the |
richest of all is covering for the front I.
breadths of skirts, which is made OF net .
thicklv wrought with jet embroidery.
The marabOut fringes and full riches are /
not made of frail feathers, though they |
closely resemble them, but OF the satin
chenele already mentioned. For the /
backs of Marguerite Overdrops are beau
tiiul rosettes and tassels, and also long
gilded points for finishing the ends of I
ribbons used in draping
VARIETIES.
A belt and sash of satin ribbon and |
point Il esprit lace is dressy addition |
now fashionable for plain dark silk, or /.
else for light muslins or other evening T.
dresses. The wide belt of plain blue, /
cardinal or old gold satin is covered with /
point d'esprit net, while the sash ends T.
and loops are formed of three rows of |,
satin ribbon, each two inches wide, with 7
insertion OF point d'esprit between each /
row, and pleating Of the lace across the |
ends. The belt and sash cost s.. Some ,
times the belt alone is used with
rosette of the lace, in which a bouquet /,
of flowers is placed. This costs S2.2j.
To wear in the street are scarfs Of /
white India muslin with pin dots that
are scarcely more than white specks .
woven in them. The edges are trimmed ,
with point d'esprit lace. They are worn
close around the neck, tied in front in
mammoth bow. Price l.25.
Small fichus OfpOint e'esprit net edged
with the plated lace are used either for .
the neck or else as strings for bonnet. I.
Plating of point d'esprit lace is sold .
by the yard for wearing in the neck and .
sleeves Of dresses. Sometimes crepe
lsse plating is setnside the lace frill
rs it is the fashion now 10 dress the
neck very full aud very high. This
is true also Of linen collars that are
now worn rs high as possible, /.
and are held in place by the
white muslin necktie that is passed
around the collar, but inside Of the
dress collar. and j. only seen in the very
large bow that is tied very high and
close tn the throat White muslin ties
arc nsed for all but YcrY dres.Y occa-