The Portland daily press., 1879-11-06
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

prOWH HIS lIO thO ohNiA' -
three wide bands Of the cloth nearly covered
Except the width of piping on each edge) by
straight band of dark green satin. The cloth
drapery above represents an irregularly draped
apron over-skirt merely stitched with four
or five parallel rows Of dark green. A frock-
coat shaped precisely like those worn by gen.
tlemen, completes the suit. 1t is stitched on
the edges and sleeves, has satin facing on the
collar, and many buttons for its only orna-
ment. Another suit OF seal brown cloth has
tho drapery falling open over silk skirt TO
show in the back and front green silk founces
laid in side pleats. A border of fur seal-skin
edges the drapery and the coat of this suit, and
il is said sealskin will be one of the most fash
ionable furs for trimming winter garments. A
band of fur near the foot of the skirt, with a
narrow satin l1nife-pleating below, is stylish
and also warn-looking.
Other cloth costumes show different con-
trasts. Thus, dark bottle green cloth dress
is stitched with cherry red and shows facings
of cherry cashmere. Ten or twelve rows of
the red stitching around the lower skirt are its
only trimming. The oyerskirt has fewer rows
of stitching with the facing showing on the
sides The green cloth basque is made pre-
csely like the basques of riding habits, and
has rows of tiny embroidered buttons. A gray
cloth costume is trimmed with black corduroy,
the skirt being formed of three kilt pleats of
the gray in clusters separated by a corduroy
pleat. Skirted basques double-breasted frock-
coats with the double part added by seam
down the middle, and habit basques are, it
will be seen, all used with CLOTH suits. While
brown and green are the fashionable colors for
these suits there are some of very dark gen
darme blue stitched with white, black OF gold
color, also garnet with sclf-colored stitching.
There are also very stylish suits of the English
hom e-spun cloths in checks of olive shades,
trimmed with very dark dull red satin set on
in straight bands around the skirt. The skirted
coat has many fiat pleats behind, and square
pocket flaps. The sleeves of cloth suits are
plain coat shapes entirely without trimming,
or else having either one or two large buttons
set near the wrist and with these are mock
button-holes. Instead of binding the mock
holes with silk. they are now overcast as real
button-holes are, but are not cut open. Square
pockets are put in skirted coats OF cloth, or
else on the sides of the upper-skirt drapery
when the basque is in habit shape. These
pockets are large, plain and fiat, and are some-
times trimmed across diagonaly with stitching
and buttons, or else open across the middle in
a slit that is bound with silk.
While cloth suits are the first choice for sty-
lish yet plain dresses, there are more dressy
woolen costumes of camels-hair combined
with velvet or satin, and for these combina-
tions the new redingote is the over-dress chos-
en-. This long coat is handsomely illustrated
in suit of bottle green camel's-hair with bro
caded velvet in stripes to be worn with plain
skirt of green velvet or Of satin. The waist
part, as low down as short basque would eX-
tend over the hips, is of camels-hair, made
double-breasted by a seam up the middle, and
trimmed with two rows of large japanese but
tons. A square fat skirt piece, also of the
camel's-hair, is sewed below the hips on the
sides only, beginning at the last dart, and ex-
tending back to the seam that joins the side
body to the middle forms of the back; this
square has pocket slip in it. What consti-
tutes the great-coat is the added coat-tails of
striped brocaded velvet, made of two straight
breadths. merely rounded to fit the hips, and
attached to the waist all around below the
skirt part just described. These open gradu-
ally down the front. and fulness is given to tho
back by great bow and ends of the velvet
doubled set on just below the middle FORMS
There are four ends to this bow, two of which
are not cut, but hang like looped scarf The
slee YES have no cuff, but merely two buttons,
with simulated button-holes overcast with
foss-silk. These redingote suits are very ele-
CANT, and are sought by those to whom panier
drapery is not becoming. They are made up
also in black velvet or satin for the waist,
with Drocaded velvet Tor the Sklft.
Black satin costumes are imported as the
richest toilettes for visiting, day receptions,
etc. The new back drapery for black satin is
made of two breadths of wide satin faced all
around the straight edges and square corners,
and caught up in the middle of the top to SIM
nlate great bouffant bow, across hich a
strap is tightly placed. The coat is then doub-
le-breasted, with perhaps a guimpe and revers
of the striped Jet goods or else q border of sea-
otter II the skirt is trimmed with otter. Some
satin skirts have three tiny knife-pleatings of
the satin around the edge, and these are al
most entirely concealed by a heavy jet fringe
made entirely of sthe beads, and sometimes
half a yard in width. The pleatiugs are over
lapplng, and are never SO wide as their fiat
heading, which in some cases is otter, above
above which may be great diamond ornaments
of jet. Some of the skirts have satin scarfs
draped in Grecian style high on the left, and
crossing the front in diagonal folds and these
have jet fringe on the edge. The back drap-
cry is yoluminous by reason of its width, being
sometimes made of three breadths of satin;
but it is not caught up in more than two places
and usually only once, which is just below the
belt. Long draperies are seen on these new
suits, and the lower skirt, which is sham of
cheap silk, is entirely concealed.
The new round waists are shown on black
satin suits, made with guimpe and girdieAof
jet goods. The satin is laid in three folds or
pleats in the fronts and back ON the shoulders,
and these are pointed III surplice fashion to
meet at the belt or to cross on the breast The
neck is felled in both behind and before with
Jet gulmpe. belt OF Jet goods is then made,
with girdle point at top and bottom in front,
and great bow behind, of satin with square
ends, that give the effect of habit basque.
There is no change in the shape of short
round skirts, nor in the very small bustles
which are worn with them. The bustles are
only required to lift the skirt out and back
very slightly, SO that the wearer may not
touch the edge with the back of her foot. The
most fashionable modistes have imported just
such bustles as they have been showing for
several seasons, and even these are not re-
quired by all figures (merely by those who are
naturally tiat,) and are used to give a fuller
round appearance. Hoop-skirts, or anything
approaching them, are not found at the lead
ing houses.
The new muffs made of the dress material
are in reticule shape, and are trimmed with
lace. The velvet, satin or brocade used for
the most conspicuous part of the costume is
chosen for the muff the lining is of silk plush,
either white garnet or old gold, and the open
ends are bordered with soft white lace, such as
Breton or point d'esprit, very fully gathered to
fall in shells. The muff is nearly fiat and is
broader on the lower edge than on top. 1t is
very handsome when made of black velvet
lined with white plush, frils of creamy Breton
three inches wide on the sides, and suspended
from the neck bya narrow velvet ribbon
which is tied in bow behind. A black satin
ribbon bow is on top of the muif. Black satin
nuns are nearly covered with Jet ornaments,
and other muffs are made of the beaded silk
used as part of the costume.
The new lace ruifs to be worn very high
around the neck are made of four fine pleat-
ings of lace, usually Breton or point desprit,
sewed to row of narrow lace insertion. Two
pleatings stand around the neck, and two fall
outside the dress. Narrow satin ribbon is used
to tie the ruff, and may be lnotted on the lett
side or i'll front according to fancy.
Young girls i'll their teens, and also very
small children, wear the grave colors used for
their mothers enlivened by the gayest India |
brocades of fine wool, or else Pompadour-fg- |
ured goods in mixed silk Or satin and velvet. |
A long overdress, punched up on the sides and |
behind, with a plain skirt is the popular de- |
sign for their incest dresses, while the short |
basque or the frock coat is used with long
round overskirts of palmer suits. Flannel or
cloth is much used for misses dresses in shades |
OF garnet or gendarme blue, also in homespun |
checks. The waists are sometimes made with |
three box pleats and a belt. The long round |
overskirt is looped high on one side and droops
on the other, or else it is caught up on both |
sides under fiat square pocket The lower |
skirt has no iounce, but is ornamented by ten |
rows of machine stitching; white stitching on
blue suits is liked by girls. The Derby felt hat
that may be bought as low as fifty cents, is
worn by misses also the Pinafore with straight |
sailor brim. There are also many rough bea-
yer hats with soft brims, variously turned up |
TO suit various faces. The skirted coat of
cloth is the Wran for misses TO wear with nice |