Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1879-11-07
Farm, GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD.
Planting Fruit Orchards.

rangement and management, hence any
man who contemplates planting, whether
a small or extended plantation, will dc
well to keep these essential points II
view and avail himself of the experience
gained in these several directions, mo-
only by himself but his neighbors, fol
experience is the trustworthy guide.
Beginning with the question when Il
plant, there are advocates for both fal
and spring setting OF orchards. Pomolo
gists very generally agree that fall is the
season for lifting seedlings and rooted
layers for stocks. Many of them 90 fur.
ther and advise planting these in the fall
as this saves handling, avoids all dan.
gerous loss in heeling-in and gives the
trees time to throw out and mature new
rootlets before the severe summer heat
and drought comes ON, which is not al
ways the case in spring planting.
Another argument advanced in favor OF
fall planting is the leisure time occur
ringat this season, which naturally in
duces more extended orchards with
work better done than during the rush
and worry of the spring season.
While on general principles it is safe
and wise to advise the fall planting of
fruit orchards, this advice, like all 9TH
ers, is subject to modification. Fall
planting, for instance, should be avoided
IN climates where the winters are long
and severe, or where alternative freez-
ings or thawings are frequent. Again,
on some soils, experience has taught that
stone fruits succeed best when set DUR
ing the spring. The matter therefore
resolves itself into the fact that the sea-
son OF planting extends from after the
fall OF the leaf in autumn by frost. until
its temperance in the spring, provided
the ground is not frozen.
There are soils of certain texture
and quality. as that commonly termed
sandy loan, with a sandy clay subsol,
in which, with proper management, all
the hardy fruits can be grown to perfec-
ton.
On this may be gained good results in
apples, pears, plums, cherries and
peaches. On the other hand, soils there
are wholly unfit for any kind of fruit
trees; these comprise such as are peaty
or mucky, damp and cold and spongy
soils. Experience has proven that ap-
pies thrive best in dry deep soil, be-
tween sandy and clayey loan, and pos
sessing a considerable portion of lime.
The plum - excepting perhaps the
Canada or native, and Mirabelle, which
succeed ON very light soils-do best on
rather stiff clayey loan. The cherry
and peach require light, dry and warm
soil for enduring orchards.
The best site for an orchard varies with
localities, hence the wisdom of gaining
in the immediate neighborhood the
knowledge required. An eastern and
9nI1t horn ~ 101 =.
be avoided in sections where late and
severe spring frosts prevail. If high
winds from the west and north are to be
guarded against it is recommended that
situation be chosen where some nat
ural projection, as a belt of woods or
hill, will break their force. If no such
protection already exists, it will be wise
to set out at the same time the orchard
is planted a border of some rapid grow
ing tree, which will form a protection
by the time the fruit trees have come
into bearing.
Selecting the varieties for fruit Or
chard is most important point and
should be made in reference to the
special purpose tor which the fruit is in
tended. A commercial orchardist in
the imm ediate vicinity of good market
Will lind profit in summer and early
autumn fruits, for instance, while the
market grower at distance obtains his
gains from late autumn and winter varie-
ties which may be safely packed and
transported. Low, stout trees, other
things being equal, are preferable to tall.
slender ones, and especially should this
preference be observed in elevated and
exposed positions.
The square form, in rows the same
distance apart and an equal space be-
tween each tree, is the usual plan prac-
tlced in setting out orchards. Twenty
five feet is the distance commonly al
lowed for the average apple orchard
I: Barry recommends thirty feet in all
directions as none too many for standard
trees. Peach trees should be set at
ABOUT fifteen feet apart, as should plum
and cherry trees. Standard pear trees
require from twenty to twenty-five feet.
These distances are of necessity only ap-
proXlmate, there being great difference
between the sizes and varieties of the
same fruit, and also in their habits OF
growth.
The season previous to planting the
soil should be at least twice plowed and
enriched with suitable composts. When
this has been done planting an orchard
Is simple matter, holes being dug deep
and wide enough to admit the roots.
Where the soil has not been previously
prepared planting requires considerable
labor, especially if there are any defects
in the soil, which ought to be remedied
at this time by the aid of composts.
Dig large holes and line the bottom
with good bed of compost, composed.
II the soil is too compact, of sand, leaf
mould, muck, ETC., to render It more
porous, and if too light, of clay, stiff
loom and ashes to render it more reten-
tive. Lime should form part of these
ccomposts. especially for apple and pear
trees. Barry recommends half peck
OF lime mixed with the bed of each tree
In soil not naturally calcareous. In soil
adapted to fruit culture if in q good state
OF filth there is no necessity for either
large holes or compost. The compost
having been laid and covered with q
layer of pulverized soil set the tree in
the hole, carefully adjusting the roots,
and fill it with fine earth which should
be firmly trodden down around the tree.
Where the trees are large, or in exposed
positions one or two stakes should be
placed with each tree. Mulching is al
ways advised; it prevents the moisture
OF the soil from evaporating and main
tains uniformity of heat. A deep mulch
ing is required for trees planted in the tall
to prevent the frost from penetrating to
the roots and heaving the tree out Of
the ground.
Household Hints.
Apply little soap to the hinges to
prevent the doors creaking.
A cup Of water in the oven, while
baking, will prevent bread, cakes, etc.,
from burning.
New linen may be embroidered more
easily by rubbing it over with fine white
soap; it prevents the threads from crack.
ing.