Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1879-09-26
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
The Ruling Fashions.

| al dresses ana even on OUTDOOR gar
ments. The styles in walking dresses
are numerous and charming, and will
command much admiration. The
"Hortensia,n an exceedingly simple yet
attractive costume, consists of plain
skirt and short polonaise with very
bouffant paniers and back drapery.
There are several other novel and lovely
designs in trains, demi-trains, jackets
and styles for misses and children,
which must be seen to be appreciated.
An exceedingly novel design, combin-
| ing short walking skirt with an over
skirt, having panier at the sides and
| bouffant drapery at the back, is the Gle
of two materials, plain and striped,
and stylish, and so simple in its design
that the plainest seamstress cannot fail
to put 1t together correctly. ''Anabelle"
is another new model greatly admired.
The plain skirt is of American brocade,
in the gendarme blue color, and the
overskirt is formed of plain silk of the
same color. 1t is composed of deep
apron front, two paniers and a very
bouffant, gracefully arranged back
drapery. Bands of the brocade border
the paniers and form revers at the front
and back. 1t is as dtSting,te in effect as
| it is novel in design. Six yards and
three-quarters of material, twenty-four
inches wide, will be required for the
overskirt and paniers, and six yards and
a half of the brocade will be sufficient
for the underskirt, bands and revers.
Black, dark blue, invisible green, deep
wine color, almond and all the beige
shades are used in the medium qualities
OF cloth for extra garments to be worn
with ordinary street costumes. Half
fitting jackets have the preference for
ordinary street wear. The newest de-
sign in the line of mantelets-which are
the accepted garments to be worn with
visiting toilets-is the "Felicie." The
singularly graceful sleeves, cut in novel
and convenient manner, form paniers Mt
| the sides and impart an exceedingly dis
tt9agte air, and render it equally as well
suited for dressy wear as for general re
quirements, the disposal of the trim
mings being sufficient to make it appro-
pirate for the most stylish occasions. An
other new design is the Loretta, !"
which has long pointed tabs in front,
pointed shoulder pieces inserted in dol
man style, and arranged so as to produce
the inevitable panier effect by being
looped into shorter back piece.
The India shawl holds a place of
honor among wraps. 1t drapes grace
fully, is harmonious with almost every
toilet, and the rich coloring gives an air
of distinction to the whole All kinds
are worn, long and square, the striped or
Boston and the figured styles, some lovely
designs and combinations having been
| introduced this season.
We have the Renaissance cravats
Henri III. ruffs, Empire collars, Francis
[. toilets and Marie Antoinnette cos
TUNES, the long-pointed Medicis basque
and the short full corsages of the first
empire, Pompadour silks, antique laces,
Oriental stuffs, Scotch plaids, Grecian
coiffures, the f1aring Directoire and mer-
veilleuse bonnets, the close Empire
capotes, the modest Derby and the
dashing Gainsborough hats, and hest
of other seemingly incongruous styles.
| Both the flat and bouffant STYLES are
| fashionable for street wear this season
and enjoy about equal popularity, and
| frequently the two elements are com
bined, the skirt being narrow and plain
and the drapery bouffant. Plain heavy
woolen goods of dark rich colors are
usually selected for the aforementioned
| type, and are made up in the severest
style, without trimming of any kind ex-
cepting rows of machine stitching near
the edges. The skirt is plain, the over
skirt very slightly draped, and often not
at all; the tight OF half-tight jacket
is usually slightly double breasted
with perhaps the collar and cuffs of vel
vet or plush to break the severity; the
cut and fit irreproachable, the "tailor"
| finish imparting a sort of masculine air
to the .jaunty garment. Equally fash
ionable, and perhaps more popular than
this somewhat exclusive type, are the
costumes in which brighter colors and
contrasting goods are used, made up in
the bouffant styles which characterize
indoor toilets. The gayest colors and
most striking contrasts are admissible
| for street wear this season, and even
when the main material is O simple one
of quiet color the trimmings are most
usually of some bright contrasting goods,
or more often of combination of several
colors.
While the greatest liberality is allowed
in the selection of the style of the walk
ing costume, on one point fashion is in
| exorable-the skirt must be short.
Young ladies with pretty feet, and who
are fastidious about their chauSSaIre,
have their walking skirts made at least
three inches above the ground, but the
majority adhere to length which es-
capes the pavement all around and does
not conspicuously display the feet.
Plain skirts, without vestige of trim
ming are considered most stylish; but
| they must be cut and mounted with the
greatest care, as any defect. either in the
| fit OF chang" is more easily detected
than when the skirt is trimmed. Mate
rials of medium weight have usually
some style of garniture, either broad
bands of velvet, plush, satin or some of
the varieties of brocaded silk. Flounces
on walking skirts are usually from five
to ten inches deep, seldom deeper, as it
is fashionable to have a portion of the
plain skirt show between the founce and
the short upper drapery. Skirts plated
all the way up are also worn, the skirts
being laid in regular kilt or bag plaits or
in sections. One tavorite style has the
front and sides laid in perpendicular
plaits from top to bottom and drapery
at the back; another favorite arrange
ment very becoming to tall figures has
side plated founces across the front and
a drapery at the back.
Tight fitting basques are used to CON-
plete costumes for autumn wear, the de-
sign always being selected with refer
ence to the arrangement of the skirt
When the drapery is very high and
boufiant basque, short on the hips and
pointed back and front, liFe the Cornelia,
is the most appropriate; or, if becom-
ing, round waist, completed by very
broad belt, is chosen.
Novel in design and exceedingly be-
coming to slender figures is the Sybilla
basque. 1t is tight fitting, the front
having the usual number of carts in each