The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-09-30
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Sacques, coats and jackets are again inn
ported for plain wraps while more dressy gar
ments are Of the various mantle shapes. The
cloths used for fall and winter wraps are very
similar to those chosen for gentlemens coats;
they are not smooth broadcloth, nor are they
lustrous; they are heavily woven in large dag
onals, twills or in basket squares, or else in
stripes, small blocks and checks and there are
also camel's-hair cloths with closely woven
twills and fieecy lining All these cloths are
very soft and flexible, though sometimes nearly
an inch in thickness, and most of them have
the long fleece lining Just mentioned. They
ara used in black and drab more than any
other colors, but may also be had in bronze
SEAL blue, invisible green, and very dark wine
colors.
The coats and sacques are OF medium length,
covering the hips well, and are either closely
fitted OF else so slightly loose that the outline
of the figure is closely followed. The back has
three seams, with the side forms beginning
usually in the armhole. The fronts have one
or two darts according to the shape Of the gar
ment, and may be single-breasted or else
doubled to fasten from one to three buttons.
and cut away below the waist line, or else it
NAV for warmth be doubled its entire length.
The collar and the tabs at the back have the
tailor-like finish seen on gentlemen's coats.
There are, however, long sacques that have no
masculine appearance, and are richly trimmed
with the new raveled fringes, with many rows
of satin piping, and with velvet set on in blocks
that alternate with blocks formed OF overlap
ping rows of satin piping. Still others are
trimmed with rows of beaded braid, or OF passe-
mentere'with straight edges like galloon; and
A. ,e col mr.
ders of Ottoman velours very heavily repped,
OF else of uncut velvet. The plan OF sewing
near together six or seyUn rows OF thick braid
that is half an inch wide is also retained for
bordering jackets of figured CLOTH
The more dressy mantles have some new
features, and repeat some old ones. The new
collars, for instance are in pelerine shape, with
long tabs that curve nearly to the end OF the
front of the garment; these are shaped like the
fur pelerines that began last winter to replace
boaS.
For travelling and plain wraps the Ulster
and the circular are equally popular. listers
outline the form, and have neither belt nor
cape, and may be of plain color, or else OIL the
underlined plaids, checks and stripes shown In
the English homespun cloths; waterproofs are
made in these simple shapes, and are far less
burdensome than the great cloak and cape
formerly worn. The plaid twilled cloth circu-
lars retain the same simple shape, and are
often reversible, having solid gray, blue or red
on the wrong Slue. Inc DluO SiCCh
lures are most liked for such wraps.
square of white India muslin widely
hemmed is worn tied carelesSly around the
neck with dark dresses, both in the house and
street. New silk neckerchiefs are OF the rich
Persian colors, covered all over, except mar
row border, with closely woven palm leaves.
For cool mornings plain silk kerchiefs are
worn in cardinal red or deep blue, and there
are gay Scotch plaid tartan silk squares for the
same purpose.
The prints for autumn wear are i'll the dark
colors strewn with gray grounds formerly Pc
culiar to French chintz calicoes; they are now
seen in the inexpensive shilling calicoes OF ex-
cellent designs and colors that, it is said, Will
wash well. Some are provided with single
border, while others have border on each
selvedge. The mummy cloths of fine cotton that
became popular during the summer are also
repeated in the dark Cashmere colors, with
bright palms and flowers strewn lrregularly on
the ground, or else i'll stripes. These dresses
are not now made up in the plain, homely
fashions that correspondents sometimes ask
for. They have basques, overdrskirfs and
over-dresses caught up by shirred drawing,
strings that mako them easily laundrled, and
are quite as attractive for home and morning
wear as costumes of more costly fabrics. The
only difference between these and richer
dresses is that elaborate rutftes, hounces and
laces are omitted from the wash dresses and
the edges of over-skirts, and basques are either
left plain and stitched in rows by machines, or
perhaps tney nave gay po.uer see oii, VI q
most they have the side-pleatings that are now
easily managed by the laundress.
POINT D'EsPRrr LACE.
The novelty in lace that promises to rival
Breton is called point d'esprit. 1t is OF the
same qualities as Breton, being simply hne net
in which small dots or points are darned by
hand when it is ''real', or woven by machine
when it is called imitation" For the trim
ming lace small aw-tooth points or scallops are
wrought on the edge. The expense is about
|. the same as for the Breton laces. Bows for
the coiffure and smaller bows for the throat
are made of India null edged with point des-
prit Iaca