Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-15
THE WILD TURKEY.
Page From Brillat Sayarin,

That same classic consolation which can be
found by the student in Homer comes to the
Searcher in gaStrOnOmicS when he refers to his
Brillat Savar1n. What elegance ease UarUe, and
wisdom there is In his 'sPhysoloyie." Here is a
paper or two dedicated to wild turkey and Bril-
lat Sayarin'S visit to the United States in 1894
This great critic of the table was musical in an
amateuIish way, and 1t seems quite probable
that while political refugee from Paris in New
York he must have existed by playing the violin
In some theatrical orchestra. 1t was Brlllat Sa
yarin who, however, was among the very frs
to find the sublime qualities of the canvaSS-back
duck, and, with wonderful perspicuity, he de
clareS 1t to be 1.-THE most delicious OF all wild
fowl" The few clear touches which he gives
OF our early American table are excellent. He
SAYS that that. during his stay at Hartford he
pay him visit, and that in his back
grounds (queerly enough translated into French
asst deInteTes de retdt there was an abundance
OF partrfdgeS gray squirrels, and wild turkey.
1t is Mr.. Bulow who is the host, and the
Frenchman is delighted with his reception at
the farmhouse, and he falls at once in love with
the four fine daughters of the host. whom he
calls "qaA0t1e bed,tr brifs de fIe,' or as he
AnglicizeS it, buxom lasses No sooner does he
enter the old homestead than the table groans
under its weight OF substantial food. There is a
superb nt0rcedn OF corned beef, a stewed goose,
roasted leg OF mutton-but then Savarin tells
OF lot Of roots, frdcir@S) which, we suppose,
were potatoes or turnips. After the dinner tea
was served, of which Savarin took innumerable
cups. But it was the hunting expedition which
most occupied the Frenchman's mind. Sports
man he may or may not have been. but it must
rather be supposed that he brought down his
game in a discriminating kind of way, for as he
killed his birds the idea was always in his head
how the partridge was to be cooked, and how
it would eat. Brillat Savarin killed his par
tridges, enough of them, so that he night
dress them in various ways and plenty of
squirrels. These rodents might have ptN-
lied him, but he had enough originality
to improytse at once an admirable method
OF cooking them. ''At last" he writes, it was
a lucky star which brought us in the very midst
quick enough when the flock took wing, for let
him have it. and he fell dead" TO the farm went
Sayarfn, another plentiful meal was eaten in
company with the four pretty girls, and an am
allowed the spiritual Frenchman to indulge in
many neat compliments. To round off the
evening in all its completeness one of the young
ladies sang Yankee duddle," tstr.,) with the
plant OF "Mary, Queen OF Scots" and ballad
on the death Of Andre. Was Brillat Savarin car
ried away by the music OF the hour? He is I'M
wondering how he should cook his partridgeS, his
squirrels, and the great effort which he was to
lavish on his turkey. Gen. Lafayette was In the
mouths OF the host and his daughters they spoke
with enthusiasm OF their liberty but recently ac-
quired, OF future peace and prosperity for the
country. During all this time writes Brillat
Savar1n. Il was absorbed In my reflections.
was meditatfng about many things Of the great
est Importance. How was my turkey TO be
dressed? had made up my mind to carry it,
Woa f n rst tn OF my gae to Hartford r but
ents, the appliances absolutely necessary?
wanted TO build culinary trophy, which would
advance my reputation as a cflssa,o..'' Every
thing was for the best, so 1t seems The French
gdshORo1Ite in Hartford prepared game dinner
Wfts his own hands; the partridgeS were served
en- pdpiUote: the squirrels In CO,trb3ttiIL of
Madeira wine. There were numerous guests at
Hartford who partOOk OF this feast and he thus
describes his turkey: sit was the sole dish
which represented the roast. 1t was lovely to
look at. 1t .hattered the sense OF smell, It de-
lighted the taste. 1t was eaten up to the very
last morsel. and around the table was heard,
good? exceedingly good! Oh dear sir! what q
glorious bit IN
1t is pity that the exact method employed
by Brillat Savarfn for cooking his bird was not
recorded. A wild turkey, when roasted is the
king of birds. 1t partakes OF lese nlaJeste to
stuff 1t, save with one single Ingredient, and
that is with cheStnutS The bird has delicate
aroma, subtle flavor, which is lost when coarse
ingredients are introduced into it. To seize the
exact point Of cooking is difficult. II overdone
1t is spoiled, and stifl 1t should not be rare.
ABOVE all, in drawing the bird, as small an OPEN
ing as possible should be made. Cash bird OF
TINS Kind, and it loses all its virtues in cooking.
any one who is lucky enough to have wild
turkey sent him, and unfortunate enough not
" LIVE roasting apparatus, ought to send 1t
W lIlenu whose cooking appliances are more
compieGe, and. or course, accept an invitation to
eat lne Diro. Few have had the good fortune to
cay tame turkey which was almost as excellent
in Louisiana and Texas. where oceaSionaIIy a
turkey takes peculiar delicate favOr from be-
ing fed exclusively on pecan-nuts. Nv r.
Times. 49,