The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1879-09-21
FASHIONS FANCIES.
rhof the AutOcrats Decree To Be
the Proper Thing TO Wear.
a.raet Costumes for the Fall and
uinter-Attractive Styles in Silks
A Step in the Wrong Direction.

sneh bewildering variety Of charming
.,atumes has been submitted to the public
s,doment by score OF contending leaders OF
Suhion that it is almost impossible to select
3 especial praise one style above another, or
= predict for 1t an unusual popularity.
F.stes are as various as creeds, and, We may
tustly say, as antagonistic. But the domain
II their exercise is 80 broad that 1t ahofos
Mom not only for demonstrable and admitIeu
hsuties, But for caprices and fantasies III
mmerable. zt,a had
into this arena the autocrats Of fasnlon nay
Ain followers, and the doubling ana vaeil.
|uttng have only to yield 9 surrenoeieu ~
mhesifating spirit to their guidance 10 meet
s,tb assured success In the effort at personal
Esdornmeut. ID this fold there are no heretics;
4, ara orthodox, or ready to become 30 upon
,srnission. With an unanimity seen no.
mare else, and docllity that is absolutely
rathetic, they subscribe to any decree and
.,low themselves to be nodded into any shape
.hat fashion ordains; and yet they say that
women are wlllful!
The general outlines OF the present styles
u unprofesslona and dtsinterested lockers
= are not strikingly dissimilar. There are
| uiuo ideas which appear In most OF the cos
/ .rnea startlingly paraded and obtruded In
some instances, and yelled and idealized In
1dhers. The models for September are not
creatly changed from those OF August, ex-
cont In 80 far as difference OF material has
made 1t necessary.
fhnr NJ Il nj
street costumes, and the cool mornings and
1ventnQs are slim ulating decisions as to the
syle and material to be adopted for light
autumn wraps. We hope that the custom OF
\ completing ell fall and winter tollettes with q
wrap OF some sort, preferably OF the same
material as the dress itself. will again find
4 s8vor here. It ID graceful and prudent &C
commandment in season which suggests Its
naed. and certainly, as an accessory to the
elegance and finish to costume, 1t cannot be
.overrated. One OF the prettiest designs that
\ We have seen Is the visite mantelet, which, as
III name indicates, IL a combination OF the
visite and mantelet. 1t is not 80 voluminous
- to be objectionable even In our soft Gil
rnate. and requires 10 little material that one
NAV well afford to have 1t made Ia handsome
/ goods. 1t may BIS tastefully trimmed In
fringe headed by passementerie or loops OF
ribbon, OF more richly still BY the two COM
bned ,.,
docilty Of women will not be refuted by any
I rebellion On their part against the most rigid
law thus far enunciated in the fashionable
world. This law demands
THE SHORT WALKING DRESS,
and Ia inexorable. Individual taste may
modify all except It's inches II may be grave
Or gay, grave and gay combined, severe or
jsunty, plain or b0atfant; but then comes the
shitherto shalt thou go. but no farther"
which means just to the fnstep Of youthful
ieet and shade longer for those VINO require
easy boots and have right to indulgence
utter long servltude. The visible addition vi
acuunin9 shoe and dainty stocking to a
pretty costume should recommend this fash
Ion to those who need more than its exceeding
comfort and cleanliness. The fact that 1t is
universally admired and defended by gentle
men is not likely to be damaging to its sue
cess One may as we'll BIS candid.
A class Of dress goods likely to be popular
d the silk shot ia great variety OF pat
terms. Some are wrought In formal designs
with silken stitches In bright colors, one or
more, peeping ut regular intervals from
wooden ground. Others show bright glimpses
Of color soWn thickly or scantlIy here and
I there, quite at random. In the gayer goods
| bright flowers In silk appear upon dark
woOllen grounds, but the smaller and more
modest patterns promise to secure greatest
| favor.
the floral ideas of the past season In new
forms. Bright colors on dark, heavy grounds
either In flowers, vines or Oriental figures
produce gorgeous effects. Some OF the riches
silks are striped In brilliant colors, and Others
are both striped and brocaded. In fact the
fancy OF designers seems to be rioting ia 9
wilderness OF dazzling colors and luxurianl
LEAKAGE. Like ''sober second thought, witt
Its wisdom and confidence, come the service
able fabrics that never did betray us'-plaiI
and changeable diagonals, satins in all DARK
col0rs, soft cameps hair and mixed woOleI
stuffs. These may be tastefully and yet ser
vieeably combined, as we before suggested
with brighter materials, so that the ends Of
economy and style may both be achieved
Some Of the prettlest new styles have peer
designed to meet just such necessities ant
preferences. An Inventive, or perhaps, more
accurately speaking, an ingenious mind act
Ing upon suggestions given and materials
supplied may produce very rich and imposing
tolettes. Certainly there Is room for every
grade Of tast. from the simplest to the mos
quality In all things, unusuallscope Is glver
for the display OF oddly and grotesqueness
We feel like laying entreating hands upoI
Oh fashionable women and pleading the Ell
fectiveness Of ideas that loom through thu
mist" over those that smite the senses witt
naked display Of color end design But what
good could that do? We are inclined to dis
NAL belief that while some women's intuition!
need no schooling, others have none to edu
cate Taste like 'reading and writing comes
BY nature" and those on whom the gift has
not been bestowed disfigure themselves ant
know 1t not. We have sometimes tried Il
probe such minds, looking for their sense 0
beauty, but when for answer they point US t.
the parrot of the forest and the tiger lily o
the field, it becomes irreverent to carry tn
operation farther.
It is pleasant to see how considerable tn
iashion-makers have been In permitting tn
retention OF both basque and Dolonaise, q
we'll as of that most beautiful OF all styles
the princess dress In street costumes To
basque has the ascendency, as harmonizin'
Nbest with the short skirt In reception an
visiting toilettes the polonaise and princes
dress are preferred as better adapted 70 trains
We regret the advent OF paniers. but the
are literally upon us" and we must max
the best of them. To our individual taste
y step backward, concession to an II
1 satiable love OF novelty. But the cunnin
hand Of skill and the quick eye OF sympath