The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1879-02-02


monotone-silk and wool matching I'D tint as
nearly ms possible. Wraps to suit are the
rule, and black cloaks-unless the dress is
black-are used mostly for morning The
usual reduction In winter goods has begun,
and cashmeres which, at the beginning Of the
season sold for dollar yard, are now
marked at seventyfive cents, while In fancy
goods, where the risk OF changein fashion is
greater the reduction is greater also. Fur
bands are a fashionable trimming for street
suits and for carriage costumes also. The
long habIt-polonaise, edged with fur, is made
OF velvet or brocade for wear to kettle-drums
and afternoon receptions. Skating costumes
of cloth or cashmere are heavily trimmed
with fur. Of course, they are short. Fur
vests and collars, as well as bands, trim them.
One OF dark blue cloth had border OF chin
chllla on the jacket, chinchilla muff and blue
felt hat with band OF chinchila Another, OF
seal-brown cashmere, was worn with a full
set of seal-sacque, hat, huff and tippet.
Skating boots are high and trimmed with
fur to match the cashmere. These are expen-
sive, but 1t Is easy to stitch band OF fur, lined
with cloth, on to the top Of an ordinary walk
ing shoe. The new fur-ined silk circulars
so much liked, are made with invisible sleeves,
into which the hands are put-serving the
double purpose OF muff and to hold the
cloak from flying back In the wind.
ELABORATE DRAPERY
The models for early spring wear show a
decided fullness. The poionaises overskirts
and the drapery on the robes are very eabo-
rate, and the looping Is placed considerably
higher up than In the garments of to-day.
The scarf sashes, with which many Princess
dresses are decorated, are fuller, and are put
on to appear more so: instead Of being ar
ranged IN prim folds they are shrred or
gathered, and 30 fastened to the skirt that
they appear very full The waists are gen.
orally very much trimmed and many OF them
are made In diagonal or perpendicular folds
or shrrings, while the sleeves are not at all
severe as In the past those that pretend to be
close-ftting having pulled tops or being made
with cuff-shaped caps, and we notice de-
cided inclination for the flowing sleeve of the
past, some OF the spring models being half
fiowing, while In the designs fE summer gar
ments some OF the sleeves are just now long
enough to reach below the elbow and half
wide, while others are the large drapery or
dolman sleeves worn many years ago, and
which are very pretty to expose fair, plump
arm, but exceedingly ungraceful for the
middle-aged dame, whose beauty Is enhanced
by hiding or covering up as much as possible
of their arms and skinny neck.
The pompadour or square neck, either real or
simulated, is very deliberately garnitured the
face being put on about three times as full as
In the past-in truth everything, even the
skirts, have more fullness, and the boasted
simplicity Of style which has really been seen
only In the iaunty comfortable short walk
ingsuits, exists no longer even In name.
There are some changes made In the arrange
ment of floral garniture for evening and re-
ception costumes. The garlands are in clus-
ters held together by vines and sprays, and
| intermingled with loops Of two-faced satin
ribbon or with cable cords OF gold, silver or
In variously colored silk corresponding with
some portion of the coloring of the material
| forming the costume. These wreaths or
garlands are also embedded In graduated
falls OF lace, put on exceedingly full, SO that
| the lace half covers the exquisite flowers that
nestle among its delicate folds Cascadesoflac
are also intermingled with the loops OF rib
bon or cord, but this trimming is not SO beau
| tiful as when flowers are used.
| Many Of the rich brocaded or embossed
trains are trimmed with plating made into
shells by drawing the lower edges up to one
side at intervals and fastening it. Ii the
plaitings are lined with diff rent color the
effect is charming Scarlet under black, pale
blue under plum, mas tic or old gold under
olive-green or beneath black or navy blue,
| are among the favorite combinations for this
season.
BoNNETs.
The popular bonnet OF the season Is, beyond
doubt, the close French cottage and the
| Quaker shape. Tlese come in all styles OF
| felt and are made In velvet and satin to match
suits. Natural history supplies most OF the
ornaments The fancy for bugs and beetles
and lizards has passed In o an accepted fash
| ion and 1t Is rumored that next we shall have
squirrels and mice perched upon our heads
BJnnets for full dress match the suit with
| which they are worn, and, therefore q lady's
dress bonnet Is usually chosen with reference
| to her best suit. For evening white is the
| choice at opera and theatre, etc, whilea black
| bonnet or hat Is used for morning and for
| shopping.
| New kid gloves, for full dress occasions
reach almost to the elbow and count nine or
ten buttons. They have three rows Of inch
wide Valenciennes lace inserted around the
arm between inch-wde bands of kid, the top
of the glove being flushed by plated frill
OF lace. The finest white undressed kid gloves
are made In this way. Black kids have also
insertions of Valenciennes; they are consid-
cred very stylish, and are thought to make
the hand appear small.
Everybody In Paris says Theodora sis
wearing the lovely Indian muslin handker-
chiefs. just take square OF the finest India
muslin and border it with this Breton lace
Fold 1t around your neck as a Quakeress
would; gather itup close to bring the fluffy
lace around the neck; fasten 1t with flower
as the Quakeress never would. Then fasten
to the handkerchief long end, also trimmed
with lace, which you carry down on the dress,
like sash. Emphasize that also with a
flower, and you are-chic."
New lace scarfs are three yards long and
over half yard wde They are intended to
be wound Spanish fashion, around the head
and neck for wear at the opera. A stylish
mode mode OF arranging them is as an Asa
tian bow on the head, in which case an orna-
ment or flower is added. producing the effect
OF an evening bonnet.
ftl Wiuo DidCtlttS dtt WOIu udlI way Ut-
tween the elbow and wrist, with the elbow
sleeves universally adopted for toilets de cere-
monte this season; another narrow gold or
jeweled bracelet Is sometimes worn at the
wrist.
Naearat red and reseda are favorite COM
binations Of color for full stately evening
dress. That is, the under dress is OF nacarat
plush satin, velvet or MORE, and the over
dress Of reseda brocade, satin or gros grain,
or striped silk fabric.
Snake bracelets, winding several times
around the arm, and having jeweled eyes,
are among late novelties in jewelry and or
naments.
Square necks are much worn on low cor
sages. necks are also seen but round. low
for ball toilets.
Jewery for the hair and imitation jeweled
ornaments for this purpose are seen In great
quantities and variety in the jewelry and
fancy stores.
The hat of the passing moment is the
equestr ienne, in rough gray felt, banded
with three narrow ribbons placed at intervals
around the crown