The Forest Republican. [volume] (Tionesta, Pa.) 1869-1952, 1879-09-10
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
r.l, and winter Fashlons.

Shot silks are imported for dress goods.
for narts of costumes. and for bonnet
trimmings for the fall and winter. These
silks are known rs glacC by tho French
andt are familiar here
under the name of changeable slks.
The leading modistes introduced them
last season; but they are not so effective
in light colors rs in darker shades, and
did not meet with the favor which is
now anticipated for them. They are
shown in plain surfaces that display n
prominent color in one light and its con-
trasting hue in another view; there are
also striped shot silks with II half-inch
satin stripe of solid color alternating
with n changeable stripe. They have a
quaint ANTIQUE effect when the two ma
terials are used in the same costume.
All the fashionable shades are blended in
these silks.
Bonnet ribbons como in all these
changeable effects in thick twills like
silk serge. They are two and half
inches wide, and will be used not merely
for strings, but for trimming the whole
bonnet. There are also twilled serges
by the piece to be cut bias; these show
the shot colors to good effect.
Another new fabric, to be used for
DODutlS anu N1tSStSs anu III
making the entire bonnet or round hat,
is called satin antique, and is really a
kind of satin plush. 1t has longer pile
than velvet, with all the luster of satin.
and the pile may be brushed smoothly or
else stand irregularly, as is the case with
plush, though not with velvet. 1t comes
in plain surface, and is thus used for
the crown and brim of bonnets, but it is
also shown in stripes that are alternately
plain and rough; in these the whole de-
sign depends upon the way the pile is
stroked. This will be used for dress
trimmings, for vests, borders, paniers,
ETC., on wooden, silk, satin and velvet
costumes. 1t is very handsome, also,
when cut bias from the piece for folding
around the crowns of silk, plush or felt
bonnets, 1t comes in all the artistic
shades of Japanese blue, pigeons breast,
Rembrandt green, amaranth, and in the
new dauphin gray that has golden and
creamy hues. The wide brims of round
hats are lined with satin antique fully
shirred; this gives the soft, full facing,
so becoming to the complexion, but
which makes the hat very heavy.
Another fabric for trimming bonnets
is called satin sublime by the milliners.
This is soft, like the foulard satins used
in the spring, but is of much heavier
quality, is thickly twilled. and has all
the fine luster of satin. 1t comes in all
the plain colors, and is also shown in
changeable colors, and printed in India
patterns like the Pompadour foulards
worn during the summer, though the
grounds for such designs are darker than
those lately used. For trimming light
dress bonnets it is shown in ivory white,
cream, dauphin gray and old gold
colors.
Tiger velvet is a novelty to be used for
trimming both bonnets and dresses. 1t
has satin ground, with irregularly-
spots in long raised velvet pile. There
is also new crackle velvet, in which
the pile is flattened in streaks as irregu-
lar and without design as the crackle
lines on old porcelain. This will be
handsome for plastrons and borders of
dresses, for the plain large crowns of
dressy bonnets, and for the rosettes and
fan-plaitings with which they are to be
trimmed.
Royal velvet is revived also for mil
linery. This is the richly-repped uncut
velvet called sometimes Ottoman velvet.
The novelty in this fabric is the glace or
shot velvet, with one shade for the
ground, making changeable effect
when glinting through the reps that art
of another color. All the new dark plain
shades are shown in this rich fabric il
is especially handsome in the new peony
red, and in the mahogany shades, which
vary from light to dark reddish browns
Ribbons have re-asserted themselves
md will play an important part in the
millinery of the winter. They will bC
used in broader widths than they were
| l,nrinc fhn nd MI II
! form the whole trimming of the bonnet
independent of any fabric cut bias from
the piece.
Trimmed bonnets for fall wear ar,
made up of felts, satin antique Cor plush)
and silk beaver like that used for gentle
| mems dress hats. What are calleC
brush brims " are feature of the new
hats and bonnets. These are fine felt
| with the,nap brushed up roughly insteat
If being smooth as in ordinary felt
others have tufts of rough beaver fas
| tened on the felt brim. Both large ant
small shapes are worn. The small blacl
bOnnets have satin antique for the larg
,rown, with II tiny brim of velvet boun
with jet galloon. The crown may be lai
ia folds of satin, or pulled like gres
rosette, or else il is smooth and half coy
cred with jet embroidery. A large bot
quet of satin and velvet flowers is low o
the left side. The ribbon strings are t
be tied under the left ear in "A long-loope
bow.
The red bonnets that were so fashion
able last year will he considered stylis
next season. These are shown in sma
shapes with close velvet brim, no faC
trimming, and large full rosette crown
three ostrich plumes of the same shaC
Of amaranth red are made to nod towal
the front, and the strings are of sat
antique ribbon, which also trims IL
bonnet.
The round hats of silk plush, satin a
tique, beaver, ETC., are most seen in Il
creamy gray called dauphin, and
> black. The wide brim, irregularly turn
up either just in front or else on the l.
side, is covered with shirred satin su
lime, and often has bird, or wing,
long plume beginning in the middle