The New York herald., 1879-10-09
FOR LADIES WEAR.
SeaSOnable Toilets for Dancing, Dining
and the Bridal Altar.
ANTIQUE AND PICTURE" COSTUMES.
Novel Styles of Passementerie and
Elegant Accessories

always dress yourselves beautifully" says Rus
kin. mot finely. unless occasions; but then very
finely and beautifully too" How o lady dress
beautifully unless she studies the art OF dress? She
may DO attired In articles Of dress beautiful in
themselves. and yet from inharmouious arrange
mont of colors or want Of accord between various
portions of her dress. she may be any thing but
beautifully dressed. The student in dress should
study color form, effect. One of the most popular
lady lecturers of the day. in her rich black silk dress
and soft white aces with llet OF applesreen satin
ribbon bound around tho siivcry puffs OF her hair.
gives proof that she has dressed herself from
tistc point of view. and has studied effect to good
purpose. She might have bound pale blue ribbon
around her head. but the gasght would have turned
it gray. and this lcssened the beautiful contrast
between her hair and the ribbon. An artificial pink
is pretty IN itsolf. but it may bo placed in
bonnet the good effect of which 1t would destroy
writer has remarked :--"Your clothing is to your
body what your manners are to your mind and your
religious observances to your soul-the
velope which alone is shown to others. and by
which. to q great extent they classify and judge
you" Mrs. Hancock. nee Quincy. one Of tho ladies
of tho Revolution. and who was very scrupulous
about dress. once :-"I will never forgive
young girl who Is not dressed to please or ono who
seems pleased with her Dress
WHAT CAN ONE wgAn?
Handsome fall suits to be in town are Of
fine dark woollen cloths. cashmeres and camers
hair fabrics, combined with narrow striped velvet,
alternating with line OF brocade so narrow
scarcely to do more than furnish q suggestion Of
the blended color which is contrasted with that Of
the body part Of the fabric These velvcts used
in small quantity. simply as trimming. The OBJ
jection to corduroy last year was one Of color
shades could not be found to match the fine dark
cloth shades of woollen materials This difficulty
no longer exists. as colors this match the
cloth and worsteds aud the fabric itself is greatly
improved in finish. In tho making of woollen suits
the important change has been tho substitution
of the trimmed skirt for the overskirt This renders
the dress more compact. less burdensome and IN ore
susceptible Of complete and harmonious design.
The principal changes in costumes made in
those for indoor wear. and yet the changes not
decided.
Most ladies' now have "picture Dress in their
wardrobes, and somo o dozen. This copied from
q figure in painting. or from the famous styles Of
the sixteenth century. which associated with
well known beauties artists. Ono lady will have
q "Marie Antoinette" dress. another Josephine"
third will appear in the costume of the
''Directoire" and another Gainsborough's "Duch-
ess Of Devonshire or get themselves up in close
resemblance possible to the fair figures in the
modern school OF art in water colors.
the side forms are introduced are not seen the
latest imported dresses. The scam is curved to
1t is thought that the long seams give narrow eff
feet to the shoulders and apparently increase the
size the waist The extra side form at the front is
still used it obviates the necessity Of basque
seams. Shoulder seams still short. and sleeves,
unless on dem-toets. are long enough to cover
all the very elegant black reception dress,
imported by leading house for tho fall opening is
made as folows-A square train Is laid in large
Vatican plait. which is unconhned and opens as 1t
the foot. The material is of black satin, with
alternate stripes of brocaded velvet The train is
slashed ut intervals Of about eight inches. up
twice the distance. and puings OF black satin intro
ouced The train opens over . black satin petticoat.
with pointed tabier formed entirely Of black jet
square necked vest entirely of et and bordered with
handsome jet fringe. with wide-netted beaded
heading. Another handsome dress is OF black satin
de Lyons. trimmed with French cut jet fringe in
netted tassels. This style OF passementerie alto
rounded train, trimmed with four shirred hounces.
lined with cardinal red satin drapod with velvct
embroidered in massive floral pattern in natural
colors The extraneous garniture consists OF
mixed silk and bead fringe in colors to match those
in tho embroidery This is regarded OF the
most elegant costumes brought to this city.
duplicate is in sapphire blue satin.
BRIDAL COSTUMES.
Among tho newly imported dresses exhibited the
past week some magnificent toilets noted,
dered for. bride. The wedding dress is of white
satin, richly ornamental with white roses and or
ange blossoms the veil is novelty for is point
d'esprt tulle edged with point dAencon. very
elegant dress was in two shades OF roses-.ea rose
and rose dc la refine The front of the skirt is of
Pekin, in the two shades. and bordered with four
plated aounees: The oyerdress is Of tea rose col
broidored with 6cru silk and the edges en-
broidered with silk and gold thread Around
the ruche of tri-colored Mechlin lace with
two roses nesting in the lace the shoulder.
Another toilet consists OF skirt in cream colorcd
foulard with pattern OF wild corn flowers and
of Gii de roi shot silk draped in paners. The
bodice OF shot silk has basques forming large peas
point d 'Argentan The neck and sleeves are finished
with point d'esprir lace. The bonnet Is OF white
straw with a large yoke brim III front lined with
blue satin. and trimming of cream colored feathers
and bouquets of corn flowers. The dresses tor the
bridesmaids Of lsnt blue lawn. covered each
side with vapoiy ornament OF point desprt tnle
and very narrow blue hounces. The Louis XIV.
corsage Is of lawn. with draperes Of point desprit.
These dresses extremely pretty. Point d'esprit
lace is very much employed in lingerie, AZ well as
For wedding dresses satin is still the first choice.
brocadcd and plain enjoying about equal favor yet
hero the turore tor combinations asserts tsclf
and 1t is seldom that fabric forms the entire
toilet Handsome lace Is the accepted garniture. and
flowers are used sparingly. Tho traditional orange
blossoms are mixed with jasmine. clinatis. spirn
and white llacs. and used to form heading to tho
trimmings and support drapercs. The skirts of
bridal toilets modified regards the bouffant
draperes, which always interfere with the graceful
aow OF the veil princess dress with panior
drapery on the hips divides favor with the basque
and trimmed skirt. The neck is cut square and high
the back. sleeves engthcn according to TASTE the
train very long and flowing.
The veil may be OF tulle. either with or without
hem, IL the dress IL trimmed with lace, IL may
be OF heavier Malines net edged with lace matching
that ON the dress. bridesmaids. dresses arc most
fashionable when made of thin white fabric,
In youthful style than the toilet OF the bridc
aud are trimmed with bright nowers the colors for
each being different, or two wearing the Same
color. The fashion or bridesmaids wearing wells
still continues, but they long as that
worn by the bride. and arranged at the back OF
tho head in graceful style.
GIRDLRs AID CIArELAIxHs.
The wide. colorod canvas belts have
the addition of canvas bags OF the color of the
belt, and mounted in yellow or black leather
They are fastened BY buckle tho outside. tho
inside being in different compartments aud
lined with silk. Two leather straps are placed
ut tho top, through which the belt is
run Moro expensive belts of silk canvas. red,
blue, yellow white, and mounted in real alligator
skin. Novel bags attached to tho belt of yellow
leather in horseshoe shape, having rim OF black
uhout thu width of n horseshoe extending aroupu.