The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-01-13

proud daring prelate, full OF intrigue and craft 70
whom Spain owes Philip w.. the War of the Sue
cession and Europe that long, fierce. Marlborough
war His was the loftest head Of Spain, but it lies
here very low. and on his tomb he commanded that
there should be name; simply the sentence. Here
lie ashes" Tombs succeeding tombs. chapels in
profuse decoraton-sx centuries of Spanish history
enshrined. How strange the contrast-this living
glorious church. that was the embodiment OF the
greatness of Span that was to be nations
cathedral the centre of it's power. the exponent of
its religious pre-cmnence-this vast and breathing
church. every line instinct with imperial purpose
should now be in dead, abandoned town! The only
living thing in Toledo is the Cathedral. 1t lives in
the spirit of the fourteenth century. All the rest is
dead.
CAME
This smooth stone. worn by the sautations of gen
erations of worslppers. is sacred spot Here the
Virgin came in person. as she had lived and her
feet pressed this slab encased with red marble.
1t in st. ndefonso's time, and she came to
this saint. You the where she alighted,
and kiss it, millions have kissed it before you. 1t
seemed pity that fountain did not spring up, with
healing in its waters Lourdes and added to the
revenues of the town. good shrine with paying
qualities might have saved Toledo But this not
to be- Here is the rock, which you may kiss, and
for the rest let not question too curiousy these
manifestations of q most holy faith for nothing is
beautiful than faith in this pitching, tcemng
world.
TREASURES CATHEDRAL.
The General was shown an accumulation Of silver
and gold as altar ornaments They were saved from
the French and carried to Cadiz. There cross,
which was made Of gold, brought over by Columbus
from the West Indies-the that planted on
the towers of Grenada when taken from the Moors-
and the sword with which the sixth Aonzo drove the
Moors ont of Toledo There is famous virgin with
pearls and gold upon her dress to ransom city. In
1868 some robbers came into the sacrsty and carried
off this virgin. priest managed to raise alarm
and the blessed image saved. 1t is eleven
turtles old Since the attempted robbery the virgin,
with all valuable things, is kept guarded, and it
only a special honor to General Grant that
allowed to them. Even then admitted
into the with the utmost precaution,
and attendant priests kept watchful eyes,
lest the temptation walk off with
handful OF pearls would be too strong.
There were vestments which we looked at until we
grew weary and yearned for the sunshine. Nothing
Is more grateful than to wander into cathedral 10
lose yourself as it were in its recesses to study out
the old inscriptions, to drink in the inspiration of
the pious who reared it, think of the eternity
it represents. standing for ages-unchanged, IN
changing-the temple of the same God, the home of
the same undying faith. How the world sinks from
you, ana you are III the presence or Goa! Nothing
could be grateful. But to be shown cathedral,
to be handed about by priests and vergers. poking
braid bone faded cloth at you, mumbng
legend after legend in mechanical, auctioneer
fashion-nothng be distressing. And it
was with something of the spirit of men in fight
that escaped into the grateful air.
FAREWELL TOLEDO.
Nothing could have been better meant than the at
tentions of friends the priests who opened every
treasure and showered with the blessings every
relic Toledo is not to be in day in a pro-
cession. you agricultural show. The inter-
of the town is in her repose her ustrious past
Toledo is legend in stone. She has relation to
this age She is the remnant of city that was
glorious in the days of Columbus And yet her de-
cay is not distressing. There is gloom about the
town, misery gaping sources of poverty and
crime The world has gone beyond her, that is all;
and she sits her hillside in cheerful contened old
age, thinking of the days when kings to her
lap and princes did her bidding-think ing of the
Roman and the Goth, the Moor and the Christian.
They have all bowed down to her and worshipped
| her. Why should she for the world of Jovear
| and Martinez-Campos? God forbid! There were
| knights in her day. knights and warriors. who
brought her gold from the Indies, and precious woods
| from Lebanon, and trophies of knghtly prowess
from the Holy Sepulchre Let this sordid world rage
and sputter. Serene Toledo sits, serene on her hill
sde beautiful in her years and decreptude content
| with the glory she has known, disdaining this
world of and uproar that rolls in the far
distance. Thus she seemed to whirled away
in evening train. The long rays of the setting sun
slanted and flashed from her towers, typifying the
| splendor that once rested her castled wallis
splendor rivalling if not SURPRISING that of any city
| in our modern civilization.