The Portland daily press., 1879-03-20
New York Fashions.
From Harper's Bazar. ]

i
Chuddahs. When made OF these fine soft wool
stuffs it Is used for dress and for plain occs-
sions sindiscriminately, but when intended en-
tirely for carriage. church and visiting toilettes
1t is made Of Sicil ienne, of heavy repped silk.
OF satin or of silk velours. The middle seam
in the back and that on each side from the
shoulders down are the only lengthwise seams;
the front extends so far back that the side
seams appear to be back seams and thus give
the effect of three seams down the back. s m
liar garments shown at the furnishing
stores have very thick moss-lke passementerie
for heading the fringe, while others have heay-
lily bsaded galloon either of jet or beige colored
beads. Sometimes chenille is the most con-
spicuous part of the fringe and the galloon, e.
pecially when the mantle is Of tan or cream
colored wool. The trimming most generally
used however, is very heavy grass fringes
crimped like the tape fringes. A more sum-
merry trimming seen on French wraps of
black wool or of silk is pleated French
lace in three or four rows that touch
each other without laDpiug. Iustead of
sewing this lace trimming on the thick goods
of the MANTLE it is sewed on strong black net,
and this transparent foundation is then sewed
l
several rows of peatings hang as softly and
gracefully as frin ges do, and this plan of trim
ming is also good way of enlsrging msntles
left over from past seasons. Sometimes very
tine cashmeres or drsp d etc are used for these
wraps, but the more roughly finished Chud-
dahs and camePs-hair are preferred. Jet orna-
ments In oval shapes, with pendants like tas-
sells, are put down the back, on the shoulders,
| down the 'front.' or on the square sleeves of
French wraps. Thin silk Is used for lining all
| mantles.
The plastron jacket is garment Of very sim
/ pie shape, to be used for all occasions, though
By adding rich trimmings it may be made very
dressy. 1t is largely imported in tan and beige
colored cloths, and also IN the palest cream-col-
ors, with merely stitched edges and fanciful
pearl buttons for trimming. Gendarme blue
cloth. dark wine-color, and bottle green are
also used for such jackets. These are to be put
| on with the earliest spring days, and will be
/ useful all through the summer for cool morn
| ings in the country, for driving jackets, and
for travelling. The plastron is sewed in per-
manently, and the revers are neatly orHa-
| mented with many rows of fine soutache braid.
On some wraps the revers are made of striped
/ velvet or of satin. Snowy buttons add much
to the beauty of this jacket but it is still more
important that they be substantial.
The soft brocaded cloths in pearl or cream
tints are among the most dressy fabrics used
| for spring wraps. They are made with one or
| with three seams shaping the back. and have
the sides cut 10 give the effect of the square
| Hungarian sleeves, while the front is a long
| slender scarf in mantlla shape. The heavy
velonrs like corded silk aud the soft twilled sa-
tin known as foulard satin are the other rich
materials. The shapes do not differ greatly
frOm those OF last season, though every thing
| with Dolman-lke wings hanging low on the
| sides has disappeared. The pretty scArfs and
| fchus introduced last year are again largely
| imported. The quaint shape with square man.
| DARN slee aud pleated back Is also seen in
| spring garments. A great many wraps have
| jet trimmings and it is a matter of individual
taste whether or not they shall be used. For
| mldsum are thin grenadine cspes, with
| plastrons of silk embroidered with let, high
collars, and long scarf fronts. These are made
| of the square -meshed canvas grensdine, aud
| are edged with feathery psssementsries and
| crimped fringes, or else the pleated French
| lsces or the newer black b eton lace. For
| plain jackets great deal Of English homespun
cloth Is useu in small checks and broken plsids
of two shades OF gray, or else of DARK reddish
| brown or of claret.color.
The first large importation of Parisian
| dresses consists entirely of short costumes for
the street. These are made up principally of
basquss of most varied designs, with trimmed
skirts representing an oyerskirt drapery that
Is fastened permanently on the lower skirt.
Other suits consist of but one piece, as the back
whether basque or princesse- ia sewed TO
the back Of the skirt and the entire dress is put
on at once. What constitutes the chief differ
ence between the costumes of last season and
those of the spring is the more elaborate drap-
ing in the way of shirred and folded fronts and
softly puffed backs and hips that give the
oouttsnt effect of paniers. The lower skirt re-
mains narrow, has the same shaped cores aad
1 q MI nj INN NTH =.
| hounce, unless on the front side deeper trim
| ming Is needed to meet the over-skirt Boz
pleated fiounces, plain regular pIestugs, clus-
tered pleatipgs and those with spaces between
| are all used. These are invariably made
straight across the goods (bias aud gathered
| tOunces have for the moment disap paarodJ;
| two to five rows of small hnfe-pieatings are
also seen, especially in satin and in striped
| goods.
The marked features in the new over-skirts
| are the sbirred fronts and the soft bouffant
back drapery. This shirriog will extend down
the middle Of the front OF the apron aud also
down each side of it. Sometimes the shirring
| gathers all the fullness of the apron near the
| top, aud the ends then slope away like cur
taius aud are edged with fringe or it may 0e
they have three-cornered revsrs added balow
| on each side. In Other cases the upper part Of
| the front breadth is covered only by the basque
| and the shrri0g gathers all the apron fullness
| very low down on the lower skirt. In still
other models the shirring extends diasonsly
/
| is edged with broad retrousse band of the
| striped or else brocaded trimming. These
| lur0ed-up bands are seen on variations OF the
| favoiite washer-woman over-skirt, and are
| made more effective By being made OF a fabric
| in strong contrast to the dress material For
| instance, in the useful wooden costumes called
| the Fair Ms i'd of Perth suits, the soft sheer
wool fabric of the dress is of single color
| such as cream, claret, olive. gendarme blue,
| black or rifle green, while the vest, the panels
| and the retrousse bands are Of gay plaids in
sI the quaintest new combinations Of colors. The
apron of the over-skirt has soft folds sc;oss it,
the broad plaid band is low down, and panel
on one side is of the plaid laid in three leugth-
| wise pleats. The back is made bouffsnt by
| softly draped breadths caught up from the
| from the lower edge high on the sides and bOr-
dered with the plaid. The wool stuff used in
| these suits is as sheer as bantng, but is not
| wiry and harsh
The basques are in endless variety, compris-
| ing the Pompadour basque with square front,
the vest basque, either single ordo1hie-oresst-
ed, the plsstrou, the fan back, the fchu front,
| and SO Ou throughout the list. They are only
| uuifoi m in being shorter than the long plain
| cuirass, which is not in harmony with the short
bouffaut skirts. The novelty In vests is a sort
| of oval-shaped opening of the basque upon
| them but every variety of the vest 0asque as
, | now worn is seen in the newly imported dresses
That which seems most popular dispenses with
a separate vest, and has the vest material laid
directly upon the lining, with the fabric of the
] outside dress sloped away to show the vest de-
| meath; and these are most sty lish " when Tapped
l az if doube-bressted, aud fastened by two ":
) | of buttons, having three or four in each row
d Shlrred or plated plastroDs 6ll no the square
I Pompadour opsnings at the neck of other
Q | basques; in some cases these are sewed in with
? revers on each side, in others they are NJ ado
9 separately like bibs. A great many kerchie
d collars like shirred fichus, or else merely folds
d are made of the soft silk or satin trimmin!
f edged with fringe or lace as flush for the eel
t of basques. The short side forms of the bach
q are almost universal. Position pleats aud fans
are quite fl at in the back, aud begin below the
q waist line usually. Plain or piped edges still
g prevail. Sleeves have very small neat cuffs
+ and sometimes q fan is set in the outer sesu
t near ths wrist
4 Ecru wooen dresses of Bayonnsise (resemb
|. ling tamise cloth). or of Cashmere or camePs
II hair, will be greatly in favor for early spring
@ trimmed with contrasting colors, such as claret
colored striped satin, or small figured blue o.
1t brown brocaded silk. or else the new chinrz
+ figured foulards in gay Pompsdour colors Tn,
10 bQttons 10 go with such dresses are fiat pear
It gded, and tinted and inlsid with colors to Cor
a respond with the trimmings. Sometimes th
f. striped silk used for the trimmings has all tn