The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1879-05-11
RfID6UMMER FASHIONS.
Radical Changes In Ladies' Dresses Probably
10 he Made Hefsre Next Fnu.

Over or. rather. has been transferred TO tho
limo which dvdoe the long bnsdue from tho
pointed corsage with paniors. Tho reign OF the
long skirt is over. and the long basque is surely
moribund. BY the middle or end Of summer
all oorsages will be cut short on tho hips.
pointed back and front. and around the hips
will swell out the bouffant. plcotcd or gathered |
fulness Of draperics, intended to simulate tho |
paniers OF tho reign OF Louis XVI Large. |
stout women dread this incoming fashion, but |
their fears are groundless. In tho hands Of a |
good modesto tho panicr drapories can be so
arranged ns actually TO conceal obesity better
than the most cunningly-ntted princess corsage
or long basque ever did. II must be remem-
bered that the narrow proportions OF tho skirt
are retained. and that tho hip and back dra-
peries are only varied in their arrangement
There are various notifications Of the panlcr
but tho general effect is tho same. There is n
boufIant fullncss around tho hips, rendering
the outline OF them so dubious that 1t is dinl-
cult ut n slight glance. TO tell what are the ac-
tual dimensions OF tho wearer's person. The
most fashionable panier costumes are not only
short. but tn ey are very short They show tho
entire foot. instep and oil. the high French
hceled boot or shoe being displayed to the
ankle Tho slipper boot. or shoe becomes an
object OF special consideration In such toilet
ns q matter OF necessity, md the hosiery nuite
NJ Ulucu 80 lub HOTt tAuulbilo nv
hceled slippers. with ono or two straps across
the instep. with bows and buckles on the same.
are worn on all occasions. except for street
wear. with these short dresses. Tho boot is
donned Tor street VICAR only the slipprr OF
low shoe. with its ornamental bow and luckle.
worn over faultless hitting SILK or Isle thread
clicked stockings IL de ft0e1iT Tor carriage
and indoor wear. The cOrsnge must III like
"a glove over waisteoat OF satin,
silk. corduroy or brocade embroidery This
waistcoat may be cut either ia one or two
uOiula in front. while the back of the
may be either pointed or squared on in posttl-
ions lying cose and fiat over fat-lying back
drap0ries. The panier draperies are then
brought up and punched In largo plents or
gathers under tho taiIe Of the postilons or
the long poiut in the back. Sometimes the
scaris Of which the paniers aro formed are
permitted TO form pnrt OF the back draperies.
after being caught up under the points or pos
tilions. When long basques arc part OF a cos
tune they ure given panier effect Oy looping
up tho funess OF the Riho pieces back OF the
hips and ornamenting them ut that point with
long cravat bows Of ribbon.
The greatest latitude Is permitted in con;
trasts OF color and variety OF material In all
costumes Intended for home or carriage wear.
Garden. lawn tennis. crOquet. and archery cos
tunes are made as bright aud picturesque, rs
possible All colors and tones and tinis softly
blended or sharply contrasting, ana mhde
gold thread embroidery. are brought into play
in making the butterfly like toilets that ~ here
and there over the green velyety lawns AL along
| that PARK OF America. the eastern shore OF the
| North River between YOnkers and Pecksklll.
| But when the wearers OF those gay Trlanon
| ten of them. old or young. matroh or maiden.
are attircd in solid black-not mourning. but
black-the elegant. dressy. black walking suit
| Of tho American woman, with its laee labOt
fastened with a leweled; golden pm AZ tn9
H,b cRq ase 9 AMI o Sbe1s and sn and ony
| a few bright u wers In the back OF on one side
behind the ear land shaded. too with the black
| lace or black plumcsl to mark that tho Wearer
| is I'm colOrs" not in mourning"
| Prettiest among these short coetumes Is the
| " Pinafore." and although the original Tina
| fore coatume WAS made up of gendArme blue
| French bunting, and trimmed win gOld brald
DOZENS OF different kinds OF Pinnlore suits In
| all sorts Of materials, from unbleaohed domes-
| tic and cheese cloth trimmed with bandana
| handkerchief bands and pipinRs TO costly plain
| and Pompadour striped foulard and the finest
colored. striped plain. ana plalaed patistesi IN
| these delicate tones OF indefinite colors which
| are so much admired by conholSseurs In dress
fabrics.
suits are seen on the forms and counters OF our
leading dry goods stores. Prettiest among these
grounds OF blue. rose. mauve and almond color
| formed by hair lines OF these colors on white
| surface. Borders in solid muses. OF the Same
color as the grounds. or IN iardiniere colors and
| effects. used FOR the 1ounces, ruffies. bands
plastrons. md other ornamental parts Of such
| dresses. These, too. are made up with scarf
| panIers. or with panier sacque5 or sacque
fchus with tho ends fastened up en pa'',t1
rally demi-trained as such nlmy tissues ara not
suitable for any but house and carriage wear.
The rufiles set on the iacket or basque produce
| the waistcoat effect too. white the tablier and
back draperies are only slightly different from
those suits made OF materials of more substan-
tial fabrics. Lace. both real and imitation.
| edges the ruilles and huunccs Of the costlicr OF
these lawn and organdy SUITE, and with them
are worn charming llchus u Breton lace. black
! or white. sometimes very long. crossing on the
bosom, and tying in the back over the tournure.
Smaller flchus of lace and mus lin ara also worn.
| but this does not render tho Jabot unnecessary
| on the contrary, the ruchc, or iralse, or linen
collar. embroidered or plain. must each bo worn
with a labCt or bow OF lace or an illusion scarf
tied crayat fashion IN tho meek.
IN tho new confectlons OF white organdy and
lace prepared for summer evening full dress
and for graduates and college commencement
dresses. Breton lace. either real or imitation,
has almost taken the place OF Nalencicnnes and
Italian Imitation" This lace is moro fire.
quently used in the form OF Dleatngs than
broad scarts that form the Danier and back
draperies, but is more frequently pleated than
set on plain; and when used on the founces. II
| is either pleAtod. or tho nOunco 10 set on in
| knife blade or kilt plents. with the inch and a
half wide Breton lace edslng the same;
Tho prettiest seaside dresses are OF fine bunt-
ing trimmed with bias bands. pipings. bind
ings HnI panier scaris. and pouis or bouiiants
in tho back OF gay Dlaided Madras handker'
chiefs New buntings are OF several Kinds
The old fayorite canvas woven stun but sOitnt
and moro flexible. is called African bunting
The soft. semi-diaphanous fabric. So much like
the old mousseline de- laine, Is termed Pievns
, bunting. while Byzantine and French buntlngs
old chnliirs. and among tho sensible httutings
, are found reproductions OF the Old balHtrlnct
Of thirty years 1;9. me soites' shsdIs, ,, o.
and pure white in these goods combine heaut
. fully with Madras plaid goods. while the darker
colors gendarme and navy blue and tho gnrnr
aud wine shades are trimmed effectively Will
! gold brhds, or gold brucalei. or shot. or golt
: embroidered Galoons and small gin buttons
| Two waistcoats are usually provided for M
: bunting suits and the fancy buttons OF ever
| kind that are brought out this season are usrt
! | to excess in decorating the same ami various
1 parts of the costume. Frequently three row
| Of small buttons ara placed on tho front OF tn'
J | waistcoRts and even on black bunting costume
T, these buttons are generally very gay aud ei
l | fectiye.
5 Dressy hats md bonnets intended to be wori
e with such costumes. match the ground of tn
a suit in tho straw or chip. while the showies
! plumes and flowers and gold braid and galoon
: and gold and silver and crystal ornaments. con
. fine the Breton lace scaris that do duty N
strings for such chapeauX, The Innings o
white or colored straws and chips are more fro
queutly black than cOlOred, black satin shirrlnl
being tho faVorlte lining even whom the gayrs
and brightest flowers feathers. and tnsel orna
II ments are used for trimmings. In addition 4
y the Rhine crystal. and silver. or gold dragon
c flies bees and butterflies. and the lizard ant
serpent ornaments that are 50 popular for bon
- net and hat brooches gitand silver, crystal an,
4 jet horseshoe ornaments are used Tor the sam
purpose. and on some hats even q small glide,
ia rsfl,