New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1879-12-28
SOME SECRETS OF FRENCH KITCHEN.
BABErTE's "PETIrs PAINS"

From Cassslps Magazine. $500
To begin with. there certain delicious little
cake loaves called, believe, tOrtolong'-at least.
That Blbetie's name for thern-whch nave
never met with in England. but which viii De re-
mcnlbered gratefully by many of our friends VINO
have resided in France. They arc exceedingly light
and delicate, and usuay make their appearance IA
the form Of linked rings or figures 81 with the
believe there are several inferior members o.
this. particular section of the 'petits pains
family; but here il Babctte's own method OF
making the very best kind. and L do not
see any reason why Jane or Betsy should
not be able. with little practice and few fall
urcs To turn out as tempting "a batch now aud then
for the benefit of those who ENJOY such dainty gl
things. in preference TO slices from orr very solid
and satisfying British half-quartern or somewhat
unwhoesOne penny roll Babette set to work WITH.
for instance, three pounds OF flour. hall pound OF
butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, and dozen
eggs, mixing the whole most thoroughly and not
forgetting to scatter about n suspicion of salt
Those were her own wOrds j must leave you TO
lind out what quantity this represenie'l. when she
had stirred il all TO her hearts contcnt-mind, this
was not done very soon-she proceeded TO roll the
dough into long. thin, sausage-ike shape, and cut
il INTO lengths OF abOn four inches. These she bent
INTO rings. which she linked two aud two together
neatly joining the ends by folding over aud pressing
them lightly into one. Then when some half a
dozen were ready for the oven ~ thought. Babete
coolly flung them into large stcw-pan half full
vt boiling water, which stood ready on the IRE
They at once sank out Of sight but presently reap
pearcd floating on the bublling surface. She at
once whiskcd them out with Hat spoon. aud
popped them into a bowl of cold water, where she
left them to soak while she went on rolling. twist
lug and lukng more rings aud Fights. winch, one
at a time were dropped into the boiling stew-pan.
then in cold water where they were allowed to re-
main in soak " But Babette. why don't yon finish
them ?" asked seeing her turning away presently
as though her task was finished. The bonnie ex-
planned that they were finished as. far. as to-day
went. Tomorrow. before Madamc's breakfast time
she would take them out of their cold bath, drain
them rs dry possible in sieve, put them on that
thin sheet Of iron which slipped 50 easily GSi
they were of that pretty light brown. which
Madame ndIniIed so much. The oven must be very
hot. aud she lBabetie) must watch closely to see
that they pulrd and grew big aud light enough
for il NJ all overdOne or burned, they would be de-
tcstable and unpresentable-a disgrace which, ac-
cording 10 the energetic old lady's account, size
could never survive for one little moment.
Another thing which Dabctto made TO perfection
the understanding. delicate aud tempting
d" briochc that nearest French representative OF
the English bun and the Scotch cookie, but re-
fined representative being neither puhY, brown nor
lndigestihle They are beginning to take their place
IL the best English cOnfectiODoIs. On the Couii-
nent they are found everywhere. aud much favored
by our cOunrymcn, who generally know good and
wholesome thing when they get IT, and Why they
should not get this particularly good thing AT home
well 40 abroad, IL their own tables as well as IN
shop. cannot quite see. AT any rate
Will do my best 10 make this excellent little cake
loaf better known by telling You how old iiabctte
proc, eded when she meant 10 give us brooches FOR
breakfast or luncheon nest day rs the dough when
mixed. has TO stand at least twelve hours before
baking.
First she provided herself with, let MS say. one
Il
"a thing which Babette WIS always most plrtcu-
lar about-twelyc ounces of sugar. rather over one
ounce of German yeast. little salt and about ten
eggs. She spread abont fourth OF the Hour upon
her board, nnd having dissolved the yeas IN
enough tepid water TO mix the flour into paste,
she poured this into IL, and kneadcd 1t thoroughly
into stiff bail of dough, which she then scored
with a kulfe and placed IN large pan. which. hay-
ing covered she put in warm place 70 ierment or
as the bakers call il, to set the sponge while she
proceeded TO NIX the rest OF the ingredients. The
remaining flour Was now spread on her board, and
well hollow place made IN {. into which she put the
sugar and salt, mixed together in little cold water
then the Outter and eggs followed tho rest. to be
stirred worked together by Babettes strong fist
who rubbed and rolled aud passed the whole most
carefully through her hand that no ugly humps
should remain unnOticcd TO tell of a careless cook
BY the time all this was sufficiently mixc'l. the
"spOnge.' which had risen and spread and pulled
up 10 three times ITS original size was pronounced
ready for use and spread on the paste. with which
il was careful mix ed and kneaded, then the whole
lump placed upon cloth spread in q large wooden
bowl, over which handful of flour had been
shaken, more -four scattered the top. and the
whole being covered with a towel the bowl was set
a cool corner aud left To work as IL would. Our
ancient bonnie usually made this her even
ing's employment; aud she early
riser, tie sweet little loavcs ready
for ms by breakfast time, although the
dough had first. 10 DO again turned out of its pro-
tectIng cloth aud bowl to lave Hour shaken over
and under IT. aud 10 be then doubled and folded,
aud pressed and rolled. and knucklcd into all kinds
of forms and shapes; then 10 be put back into its
bowl, and left TO It's own devices for some three
hours after which Babette again found time and
energy TO double and fold, ana knead and knuckle.
unti the paste was full OF small bubbles, and felt
like Il large piece oil soft, whifc. elastic padding,
and then was ready TO be fashioned into ordinary
be-ball-shaped brooches 81 every day liie or
fashioned into rings. twists. or fancy shapes aud
brushed over with water and cggcd. SO that when
baked they should assume that hight brown. tempt
ing color which it WIS The old ladys pride to see
them nsSume.