The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1879-11-14
FASHION NOTES.

-" INK ClOVcE II Ou0 Oh inc now
shades in felt hats.
Scarlet flannel skirts embroidered
by hand in Persian colors are to be
worn.
--Medallions of lace-like passemen.
terie decorate the back centers of ele-
CANT wraps.
Small trains of velvet are added to
some of the short dresses, by French
dressmakers.
Embroidery is executed by ma
chinery upon the heaviest fabrics, light
gauzes and crepe isse.
The last edition to the list of silver
jewelry is an earring representing .
ribbon run through ring.
Satin weddings, richly embroidered,
are made up with tips of fine white
leather for gentlemen's braces. This is
putting webbing to more suitable use,
than using it for belts.
New walking-boots of Indian goat
are made with silk elastic cores two
inches deep, set in each side at the an
kle, and above this are half q dozen
buttons that close the boot in the usual
manner.
With the Pompadour style of dress
adopted for evening costume, necklets
of wide ribbon, tied in bow under the
chin, are worn. Brooches, lace-pins
and pendants are often fastened in the
bow.
Jackets of plain red cashmere, COW
cred with embroidery in dull tints, are
made up to wear with black velvet
skirts. These jackets are lined with red
silk and are worn with linen chemisette
and lace cravat.
CLOTH SUITS.
The new cloth costumes have mascu-
line styles peculiar to themselves. These
are skirted coats double or single
breasted, and perhaps the Tallien over
skirt drapery caught up high on one hip,
and hanging straight elsewhere. This
drapery is sewed in the belt with the
silk lower skirt, and conceals all the
silk not already hidden by two or three
straight bands of the cloth covered with
ten or twelve rows of stitching sewed
on straight around without the slightest
fullness. The border flounce, even of
most modest proportions, is not now so
stylish as an edging of velvet two or
three inches wide laid in six plaits and
sewed on beneath the skirt braid. The
loveliest blue-grays, gendarme blue,
plum, and garnet shades are selected
for cloth dresses, and these are rivaled
by plaid cloths that are not in tartan
clan plaids, but in fancy bars and col
ors; thus gray has large bars formed of
threads of red, and blue is barred with
gold. The stitching is of the gay color
in many parallel rows forming q border
three or four inches wide. Great wood
en- buttons, or else painted Japanese
and there is always a cravat made like
those sold for gentlemen, chosen in cor
responding colors. There are few vests
on these coats, but either the guimpe,
the cravat, or the pointed revers slop-
ing at the waist line is found the former
are on double-breasted garments, and
the latter on single fronts.
COMBINATION COSTUMES, ETC.
AS we have already noted. the COM
binatlon of two materials is used in less
patchy ways than formerly, though per-
haps not so economically. Thus, in
stead of alternating forms of two ma
terials in q basque, the entire basque is
of one fabric, while the skirt is of differ
ent stuff, with the basque fabric for
trimming. A French costume made for
q New Orleans belle will illustrate this,
and will also show how color may be
stylishly used on black suits. The ma
terials are black satin dc Lyon, and
black brocade with small figures of red
and pale blue with olive foliage; red
satin is then used for facings, fans, etc.
The skirted coat is of the gay brOcade,
with red satin shirred as q guimpe in
the neck. The short skirt of black satin
de Lyon has flat narrow side cores OF
the brocade forming panels that arc
faced on the front edge with red satin,
and quite separate from the skirt found
alton; these are plain to the foot with.
out q lounce. The black front gore is
flat, with fans of scarlet satin set in al
the foot. The back drapery is formed
of three full breadths of satin de Lyon
laid in lengthwise plaits that are moi
pressed fatty, and are slightly caught up
at the bottom to show other red fan.
plaitings. Squares of black satin edged
with jet fringe are on the hips across the
brocaded panels. Large jet buttons with
gold eyes fasten the coat. A round
reticule made of the brocade, with
shirred red satin at the top, is suspended
from the arm by ribbon strings. Othel
costumes have the brocade introduced
as paniers on the skirt, and in some in
stances the paniers tie in q knot directly
in front below the basque, and hang
plain down the front to the foot, whert
they are trimmed with fringe. Sucl
paniers are seen of black embossed vel
vet on black silk or satin skirts, while
the basque has q velvet guimpe, or {
pointed front, collar, cuffs, and pockets
Scarf sashes across the front breadth
as low as the knees are used on shOr
suits. They are much used on plaitet
front breadths, and begin on the left sid
quite high, extending diagonaAy to tn
left below the knee, where they end in
great bow. In some combination dresse
the lower skirt and coat basque are o
velvet, satin, cloth, or corduroy, Will
the drapery, which in this instanc
forms q short Marie Antoinette over
skirt, is of camel's-hair; in other suit
the coat will be of figured velvet, tn
! Over-skirt of plain wool, and the lowe