The Portland daily press., 1879-05-15
New York Fashions.
Harper'S Bazaar,


Very small eottage-shaped bonnets and the
picturesque large shapes have both been
adopted as milliners predicted they would be.
Some of the dressest bonnets to be worn with
various costumes are small close shapes of Tus-
can straw, or else ecru chip, trimmed with
loops of cream-colored satin ribbon and wide
Breton lace barbe that forms bow on the
crown and also strings; inside the brim is
shirred satin and the flowers on top are either
chrysanthemums or roses. This is charming
costume to wear with elaborate costumes of
black grenadine, silk and satin. The beaded
lace bonnets to wear with various dresses are
either close shapes or else they have Marie
Antoinette f1arng fronts these are also most
often trimmed with white chrysanthemums,
lily buds, roses, and barbe of Breton lace.
Simpler bonnets of black chip are edged with
beaded lace or else they are daintiy trimmed
with jabot of India muslin and lace on the
right side, some saucy, perked-up loops OF black
satin ribbon on the left a bunch of white lilacs
or of chrysanthemums on top, and four narrow
strings, two of which are white satin ribbon
and two black. Inside the brim is shirred black
satin, on which rests row of white Breton
lace. To make this still lighter, the brim may
be faced with shirred white muslin. Other
black chip bonnets have an Alsacian bow and
strings made of a white Breton lace barbe;
this is quite far back on the crown, while i'll
front of it is a cluster of black ostrich tips; the
brim is edged with large jet beads, and cres-
cent of jet in the centre of the lace bow.
For light mourning are very dressy bonnets
of black chip, trimmed with black China Grape
edged with black Breton lace The Grape is
twined around the crown, and held by Jet
stars A wing is stuck in the back quite low
down.
The large Marie Antoinette bonnets are
pointed in the middle of the front, and one of
the faring sides is filled in quite low down
with flowers. This is fanciful shape that
should be worn only by very young fresh faces,
and will probably be more worn in Saratoga
and Newport than the close cottage shapes
now so much liked for city streets.
Old gold braid, one or two inches wide, faces
the brims of black chip round hats and bon
nets. There are also jet galoons showing moth
ing but the beads used for facing the brims of
black satin and jet bonnets. Still other black
chip bonnets have jabot of black thread lace
trimming the right side, loops of black satin
ribbon with old gold on the wrong side are ar
ranged in a ladder on the left, and yellow
chrysanthemums are clustered on top. Inside
the brim is shirred old gold satin, on which is
laid plainly row of black lace.
New wraps of black Bengaline are mere
shoulder cape, but are peated slightly in the
back to a broad piece covered with jet embroid-
cry, and the fronts lap on the shoulders. This
is edged with very deep crimped fringe with
jet in it.
A novel wrap to wear at Newport or Sarato-
ga is made of white muslin in a long scarf
folded double, and edged with fine pleated
Breton lace. This is folded like a fchu across
the bust, or else tied with hanging ends 1t
may be worn with any summer costume.
Another fanciful mantle is panier fichu
made entirely of black lace, or else of black
figured with two or three rows of gathered
thread lace This forms a cape behind, crosses
on the breast, and drapes the hips like full
paners. This is very handsome with trained
dresses.
New bouquet-hoders are rings and brooches
that support fan-shaped ornament made up
entirely of Rhine crystals; some of these have
serpent of stones twined around them. The ring
holds the corsage bouquet, and the pin fastens
it to the dress 1t is worn near the waist line
on the left side. Large punches of natural
flowers form such bouquets, and it is the ca
price of the moment to show the bunch of long
stems at the end. Carnations, Marshal Neil
roses and the Jacqueminot roses are the clus-
terS most used
Japanese fans spread open, square cornered
and with thick stick handles, are made very
handsome by being mounted with silk-pale
blue with olive green, or cream-colof with dull
red-and artistically decorated i'll japanese de-
signs painted by hand; they cost 81. Japan
ese-Shaped parasols grow in favor and ladies
select parasols to go with different costumes
not to match them in color or fabric, but to
harmoniZe with them. Stylish paraSolS are
now so striking in their gay fabrics and quaint
shapes that they are conspicuous if not in keep
ing with the dress.
New silk bows for the throat are without
lace, but are made up of the materials of the
dress and its trimmings Thus cream colored
satin bow has its jabot shape made partly of
this satin and partly of olive green, both of
which are held by straps and loops of brocade
in which these colors combine. The ends of
the satin are cut in sharp trident points.
DreSsy little kerchiefs of pink or of
white crepe lisse are trimmed with Bre-
ton insertion and edging and are used
for caps, for cravat bows, or as a
pocket-handkerchief. Others of muslin EN-
broidered in colors have the centre caught up
III puff and held by cluster of flowers. This
may be used either on the head or at the
throat
Newest white silk stockings are wrought
like lace on the instep instead of having lace
inserted