Wheeling register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1878-1935, 1879-08-08
AUTUDINAL BONNETS AND
HATS.
Feathers Invading Flowers and
n Fearful Suggestion of the
Poke ShaDes.

| Paris Correspondence OF tne Millinery Itaue
I Review for August.
As was TO be expected from the show
OF feathers at the Grand Prix-a fact |
was careful TO bring under your notice
last month-feathers are to a certain ex
tent to supersede flowers for next win
ter. The mOnOtOny of ostrich plumes is
| 10 be broken by the addition of fan
taisies Of every description. The most
| exquisite arrangements Of tropical
plumage and rare birds, either entire or
| i'm part, mounted more or less flat-thc
/ placing Of a creature in its natural pose
| on a bonnet or hat being problem of
| some difficulty and seldom proving be-
| coming to the wearer. These, however,
| will be reserved for "bost" bOnnets, as
| they are mostly very expensive, and the
common limitations thereof, composed
OF the trophies of the European farm
| ward, are very far indeed from taking
! their place. So, where Ornamentations
| of more moderate price are desired,
there is little doubt but what fanty
flowers will be used, made OF satin and
| chenille, velvet and pluch, or natural
! aatificiap blossoms mixed with "unnat-
ural" foliage, the long amaqone feather
or the plume of ostrick-tips remaining
/ their usual accompaniment; for the size
| of the chapeaux has unquestiOnably in
creased, and therefore much trimming
will be required. IL is pretty certain
that large bOnnets will be the favorite
for autumn and winter. People are
getting gradually accustomed to them
| here and are beginning TO see the charm
| of pretty face hemmed in by spread
ing brim and to the less attracted by the
| exhibition of hair than formealy. Still,
| it is likewise equally certain that all
women will not adopt this sort of head
| gear, that the capOte will be maintained
| for morning wear by many and its dec
Grafton consist for the most part OF dra-
peries of some handsome material
! Black bonnets for town and variegated
straw hats for the seaside are so trim
med now.
| The LYONS silk-weavers will be even
! larger contributors to the millinery trade
| than the bird-catchers OF America or the
Ostrich-farmers of South Africa. Never
was the beauty of silken fabrics carried
| to so great an extent. There is soft
| richness about the satins, depth of
| tone i'm the velvet and a variety of hue
| i'm the fancy tissues that has never yet
| been equalled. 1t is obvious that not
| only has every nerve been strained to
produce new effects, but the method of
manufacture has been carried TO the
greatest perfection and the very best
raw materials made use of. The list of
fabrics suitable for autumn and winter
millinery is much TO enumerate, as II
includes almost every species OF silken
tissue. Besides the usual plain velvets,
SatinS and grOS-grain, both satin and
gros-grain shot with two cOlors, as well
as shot talletaS, shot terry and velvet
with siiken threads OF white or pale yell
low in the pile, that give 1t speckled
effect, printed fOulard with cashmere
and other oriental patterns upon it is to
used both for draperies and Innings; the
lighter sort of silks being preferred TO
velvet and and other brocades. A very
brilliant brocatelle with bright colored
patterns arranged in stripes and out
lined with t,tmbour stitch in gold thread
is among the novelties. For immediate
use on country and seaside hats there
are gauzes striped with many cOlOrs,
mostly dark, relieved by one or two
light shades md various figured gauzes,
one OF the prettiest specimens having a
terrv-liKe pattern in neutral tint on
Pompadour-Striped ground. The rib
bons follow the lead OF the stuifs, and
are soft and rich. Some OF the newest
are staiped with satin on sEOt-silk
ground. They are wider than formerly,
from three To four inches ut least.
When very wide strings are required,
piece silk hcmmed over in roll is pre-
ierred 10 ribbon. Double satin strings
with irill of lace at the end will also be
used, as well as satin folded into three
folds and tackled down.
The great object sought for by the
millnCrs in their creations for autumn
and winter is To get as many hues and
tints together as possible, and combine
of them harmonious whole. The many
shades Of the feather fantasies are
matched i'm the drapcries and ribbons.
DraperieS of various materials are likely
TO be much more favOrad than ribbons
for the outside decoration OF ChapeauX.
BY using plain and shot fabrics for the
draperv and striped ribbons four or five
tints can be happily amalgamated. Such
a profusiOn OF ornaments being used
the bonnet itself sinks into insigniti-
canoe. The crown may be entirely COW
cred with silken walls, coils and flutes or
the rich plumage of a tropical bird,
while the brim is gathered velvet or silk,
or else the brim may disappear under an
excess of decoration and the crown be
deity covered in one piece with rich
satin. This refers, of course, TO hand
some, dresS-bOnnets; for ordinary wear,
felt will resume its supremacy as soon
as straw has become unreasonable. 1t
is fully expected that felt and beaver
hats will be much worn, the Gainsbor-
ough especially, carefully bent and
moulded to suit the face. The velvet
cap or toque is to be another favored
stvle of headdress. In the meantime
only those milhners who supply the
foreign markets have us vet done much
toward their preparation for the winter;
the others are still busy editing novel
ties for the country and seaside. One
of the iavOrite simple hats for the pre-
sent season Is in variegated straw, with
shelving brim shading the eyes, and tied
down close ut the side; the trimming
gauze striped with the several colOrs Of
the straw, brown, dark blue, and maize
or crimson, pale blue, black and yellow;
or else satin ribbon three or four colOrS
folded together into wide Alsace bow
in front and carried plain around the
crown. Ii fantastic or a bird be added
the hat becomes quite elegant. Hats OF
of IA large size in coarse white straw,
ruched with lace and decorated with
Mcntoue wreaths of grasses or field
flowers, and black straw hats trimmed
with masses of beautiful roses, are still
all the fashion, while the latest eCcen-
trio novelty is a Japanese hat covered
with little silken bells, applicable Tor the
seaside only. Dress bOnnets for early
autumn have their straw brims furnish
ed with smooth satin-coyered crowns.
Those in Tuscan and maize satin are the
prettiest. the trimming being ostrich
plumes to match, and perhaps a rose or
two. with strings OF point d'esprit net.
Bonnets ola more simple type are plain
" trimmed with wide strips OF reps or
gros-grain drapcd round the crown,
q. 10 go,