The Forest Republican. [volume] (Tionesta, Pa.) 1869-1952, 1879-04-02
FnshIaus Of the season.

prise of the new season is the restora-
tion OF the panier, or the so-called Ca
margo puff, which was introduced in
the eighteenth century along with
Vatican dresses and garden theatricals.
It is predicted that fashion will restore
the very Camargo which was once called
"a rage apd a vortigo," but until it is
safe TO venture upon extravaganza
paniers will be of the same material as
the dress, and procured more by loop
ings, draperies and trimmings than by
separate puffs, wings, &c, applied to
the costume.
For ordinary walking dresses "trim-
med" skirt-that is a skirt with the
trimming arranged directly on it, is
combined with jacket more or less
tight fitting, or an overskirt and short
skirt, the latter either trimmed with a
simple hounce or left plain, according to
the goods used. Polonaises OF simple
designs are also. employed to complete
costumes, but are not so fashionable as
the aforementioned arrangements. For
suitings the ''tailor" finish-rows of
machine stitching-is the accepted
trimming, the vest, collars, cuffs and
revers of some different material from
the rest of the garment. For the COS
tunes made of cloth and the heavier
woolen goods used for early spring and
travelling the underskirt is not un
frequently without trimming OF any
kind, excepting several rows OF stitch
ing near the bottom, and the overskirt
is OF some simple design, like the
"Birena, the "Muriel" or the "Lilea,"
finished to match the underskirt.
FASHIONABLE CoLoRs. quite
new and strange are the canaque, or can
nibal, succession of copper shades.
the name being given from the resem-
blance to the copper complexion of
tribe of cannibals. Blue is largely
brought forward, and appears in many
different shades but, with the excep-
tlon of the dark marine blues or the
palest tints, mixtures of green are often
more or less apparent. The most pro-
nounced blue of the season is called
sapphire, and this, but for an overcast
ing OF green, would be revival of that
positive blue which for long time has
been consigned to oblivion. Gendarme
is dark shade of military blue, and
other blues of milder type are Japonais
and bleu de Sevress Baltic blue is al
most gray, and the clear pale blues are
too attractive to be relinqpished. Vel.
low finds good representation in the new
spring colors, but the shade most in
favor is old gold. Pale yellows are by
no means ignored, and in new flowers
excellent results are produced by shad-
Ings from pale yellow into reddish tints.
The beige shades also appear frequent
~. Garnet and wine shades have taken
new lease of life, and are brought for.
ward everywhere and in all shades, from
such as are so deep as to run almost
into black mp to others resembling pale
req OF lighter wines. Pivoine (peony)
ls combination Of garnet and plum
color. Viessy rouge is q new bright
red. Dark plum is not extensively en-
ployed, yet serves as a fashionable color.
The lighter shades of prune are not
much seen. This place seems to have
been usurped by the wine colors. but il
ls III the paou (peacock) colors of the
cay that the greatest mixtures and
ehangeable hues appear.
New STYLES IN TRIMMING. .-Fringes
have by no means lost their prestige.
and may be had in as great diversity cf
design as there is diversity of taste. The
average depth of fringes is from four to
SIX inches, including the heading. Many
plain silk fringes are still sewed under
meath the edge Of the goods, and no
heading whete7er is used. Wooden
frlnges are no longer considered fashion
able, although very neat patterns are
still spRringly used on ali wool gar
ments wdtre there are no ends of dr.
perry to be trimmed. Plain hems and
rows of machine stitching are the most
stylish finish on all other parts of
wool costumes. Fancy ribbons are
largely nsed for loops, and in some de-
signs form a complete cascade down the
front of dress. These ribbons vary in
width from half inch to ten inches and
half, and are of all colors and shades
of satin, with lizards, flowers, fern
leaves and other devices composed cf
gilt and silver bullion, and fine silk foss
woven into the ribbon. The price
ranges from twenty-five cents per ward
up.
BUTToNs.-Olive and barrel-shaped
haud-crocheted buttons, either all silk
or combined with jet, will be much used
on garments trimmed with passemen-
terie. Wood buttons, hand painted in
gold and colors, are very choice, light
and effective, and cost from thirty five
cents per dozen up. French horn, both
in the natural color and dyed, are inlaid
with gold and pearl in raised designs.
representing stars, flowers, birds, beasts
reptiles, fishes and fowls. Crystal glass
buttons, sometimes called " Rhine peb-
bles, " are introduced. These are cut
in facets and set in platina, and have
most brilliant effect at night the prices
vary from seventy-fve cents per dozen
up. Medium sizes only, in any kind of
buttons, are fashionable, and the guam
tity used is totally dependent upon the
style of the garment, some requiring
only what will fasten the vest, and
others, sufficient number to outline
the cuffs, pockets, etc.
NEWEST STYLES IN PARAsoLs.
elites are being brought forward in sun
umbrellas and parasols. An entirely
new sfVla ia the 90 pO1bo dot. bo,.5o =