The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-11-09
OPERA TOILETS.
Dresses and Finery To Be Worn
at the Theatre.
PAST AND PRESENT FASHIONS.
Novelties in Kid Gloves, JeweIry
and Laces.

In the days when Jenny Lind sang at Castle Gar
den no lady of the old Knickernoeker school would
have venturcd within hearing of that nlatchless
voice unless in iu evening dress, and gallants
of that day considered it only proper respect to the
| talented artistic. less than to the ladies whom
they escorted. and were likely to while there
| to appear in faultess evening attire.
At the present day fashion less arbitrary
and "all depends upon circumstances" as to how
much how little one shall conform TO any ser
rules in dressing tor opera theatre. II occupying
n box lady is expected TO be deliberately
dressed than If seated elsewhere. Full opera toilet
does not admit of bonnet, bu. in this country re-
ception toilet. with light evening bonnet:
is considered sufficiently elaborate even
for the boxes. When seated elsewhere
any handsome walking costume, with light
evening gloves is the conventional style of Dress
A .'creakipg'' fan is uncomfortable accompaniment
to the dulest strains Of prima donna. and tiny
drop of almond oil applied the rivet and carefully
wiped away will remedy this defect and add another
to the good deeds of life; but words fail when
would speak to the people who keep up whispered
comment during ones favcrite air.
PRIVILEGES GENTLEMEN.
A gentleman is not expected to be attired in even
ing if the lady whom he to the opers
is not in full dress. but il he lady clad in
visiting toilet to concert. accompanies her
costumes. he may, il he Wishes be in full dress. II
gentleman wears full dress at the opera it is per-
mssbie for him to visit any part of the house where
he may have friends acquaintance, but it Is
good taste for him to seat himself among those who
not attired as he is.
There is decided preference shown for the dis
tinctve Louis XIV, Louis XIV. and Louis XVI styles
Many of the favorte ideas season are still
tanned The princess effects too becoming and
graceful to be entirely abandoned. and there
princess dresses still. but with notifications. which
being interpreted means paniers the sides formed
by scarf draperes. and arrangements of the
back to give full flowing train. These are made
with two three full! breadths at the back but all
trains made comfortable walking length in
front and at the sides. The long trains.
whether square or round shape. are heightened alb
ruptly back OF the front side cores. while in the dow
ing trains the lengthening is more gradual.
Short skirts are used for dancing dresses, which
the wearers and their partners both delighted.
1t is also fashionable for young. unmarried ladies'
and young matrons who have pretty
feet, tien clauses, to short dresses
for dinner toilet. Dancing dresses are made
OF thin goods, and for young ladies'. white ones
the most popular. The preference for all white
toilets is still very marked both in thin goods and
the heavier fabrics white satin being in especial
favor, pompadour silk with white ground being
used in combination, or silk of delicate color.
Rich patterns have been introduced in American
brocaded silks "a variety OF delicate shades; aud
the 'grosfae is beautiful, soft. crapey silk with
high lustre that drapes charmingly. This also In
shown in all colors and the hues are exquisite.
While light colors have preference for evening
wear, yet many black toilets made of satin
or velvet, the requisite color being given by an
light brilliant colors. with black ground and
the floral design in bright natural coors. With tho
| latter black gloves, bouquet embroidered the
back. arc worn. The fashion OF having the basque
different from the lest of the toilet is revived.
pekine plain velvets and the brocsded fabrics being
usually selected for this purpose.
LACE GARNtTURE
White lace is extensively used for trimming on
dresses of all colors and fabrics OF light and
heavy quality black lace being fashionably used on
black ouly Frlnpes are as fashiona be AZ aver and
to order i'll the colors of the toilet and in
most beautiful designs. The appiques made Of
coored beads are the latest novelty in trimming
for evening toilets, and flowers much used OH
toilets made Of thin materials, and hots Of ribbon
play an important part in the garniture Of many
Pearls among the most popular and beautiful
of gems. and with those who prefer soft. mellow
light to flashing briancy they have always found
especial favor. Generally the weight Of pearls does
exceed five six carats and pearls that are
very pearl the size OF walnut is called Q
paragon, and the size of small cherry desig-
mated q diadem. Pearls, however, of these dimen-
sions black diamonds. A celebrated
jeweller says that pearl to be handsome must be
milk white, clear and entirely free from all spots
also smooth and glossy 1t should possess a fine
'orent"-that is, a lustre which sparkies when ex-
posed to the sun. Oriental pearls gener.
ally white or of yeowish tinge. while those
found in America darker. being tinged
Win brown black. Pnk-hued pearls some
times seen. but the pink generally fades out OF them
when long worn. Ladies' who deck themselves with
pearls have but little idea at what they have
been obtained. Artificial pearls are made natu-
rally as almost to defy detection Sometimes the
inner part OF blown glass bead is filled with u mix.
ture of fish scales dissolved in spirits of ammonia.
Another method is to take faulty pearls. and grind
them with lemon juice and gum. after which they
moulded into form aud baked in bread mixed
with amalgam.
xybi a..
the finish of Kid lace at the top of handsome Gloves
and this by of its delicacy OF texture.
rather to be made of thread than kid. The patterns
are attractive, and much variety Is given by the
combinations OF color. In many instances the lace
corresponds with the glove, yet frequently it does
not Black gloves arc finished both with black kid
and with white kid lace and in the latter tho
stitching on the back of the glove is also white.
Gloves in shades ornamented at the end
OF the wrists by lace of the hue. again the
lace may be white. Dark gloves are finished with
lace OF the color. and light lavender il
sometimes finished with black kid lace These
kid lace hnishings are about three inches
in width. and add considerably to the length Of
the gloves, that two buttons equal to four Of
other styles and six buttons to eight Six buttons
is the greatest length i'll which this style of glove
brought out. The lace is headed by band OF kid
on which a button is placed. This sets firmly upon
the arm. keeping the lace in position. The best
quality of kid is in the aking OF these gloves
and the coors are very handsome, including white
and the entire range OF shades considered stylish
the present timc Prices the kid top gloves
are. tor two buttons, 81; six buttons, So.
Oriental designs are the leading novelties of the
SEASON.. lhcy are rlcH euhutci wrought III mixtures
OF brilliant colors which often produce transpar-
ent effect. Brooches, scarf pins. earrings. sleeve
buttons. chatelaines and watch cases produced
in this style.
GOLDEN sERPENTs.
New ideas have been presented in bracelets. Ser
penis of braided gold are coiled around tho in
such way that they cling with lifciike tenscity
wherever placed. There is clasp. and il desired.
the serpent may be stretched out II living rep
tile. The head is varously decorated with jewels.
Other styles show combinations which have
found favor in rings. A large solitaire pearl
il set at end of golden wire. and
diamond OF some siza at the other. The ends
are then twisted together and secret fastening Is
added beneath but IL appears as n the wearer hhd
carccssy bent the jewel laden wire around the arn
Wider styles of bracelets show patterns almost as n
tricate az tho diamond lace OF last year.
The most fashionable earring Is now large ciu1.
ter, say pearl. ruby sapphire centre set around
with diamonds, and Is about an inch IN diameter.
/ There is not much change in ringS except thai a
| Niarauso ring. composed of centre row OF small
cats eyes, bordcrcd by diamonds. ia new, and some
nj rhlns. snpphlrns NAts'