The Portland daily press., 1879-05-22
Harper's Bazaar.
New York Fashions.
PLAIN SKIRTS.

fLAlN SklRIS.
Notwithstanding the prevalence of trimmed
skirts in the present styles, some of the richest
and most elegant costumes worn on Fifth Ave-
nue. have plain skirts without single founce.
These skirts are plain and round in shape, con-
sisting of five breadths, viz, a gored front
breadth, a side gore ON each side, and two
straight back breadths of single width goods.
They are usually lined throughout, and have
stiffer crinoline facing at the bottom than
trimmed skirts have as they need to be kept
firmly in place; the edges of the skirt are
turned up two inches on the facing instead of
being bound with braid. Ladies who are
weary of the weight and the expense of
founced skirts welcome the revival of this
simple fashion. AT present thick self support
ing fabrics are most used for these walking
skirts, such as corduroy, plain satin, cloth, or
velvet but the simple cut is also seen in
striped goods, especially silk with stripes of
satin or of moire. Both very bouffant and
very plainly draped over-dresses are seen with
such skirts. For instance, a black plain skirt
of silk in half-inch stripes alternately of silk
and satin is worn with a black camels-hair
polonaise cut in Marguerite shape behind,
while the fronts slope sharply open from the
waist line to disclose the striped skirt front its
entire length. A gayer costume has a very
dark wine-colored satin skirt entirely without
flounces, above which are very short bouffant
panier over-skirt and basque of the new tan
colored mousseline de laine. There is no eff
feet to conceal these plain skirts by long over
dresses, on the contrary, they are often worn
with polonaises that have scarcely any front
below the wide belt worn at the waist. Cor
duroy plain skirts are worn with long straight
paletots or redingotes that have no drapery
either in front or back; these redingotes are of
light drab or tan-colored camels'hair or cloth,
or else dark brown is chosen. This costume
is very handsome for travelling dresses, and is
liked for its severe style.
Pleated skirts are the popular and universal
fashion, while plain skirts are as yet only worn
by leaders of fashion. These are the regular
kits, beginning at the belt or else attached to
yoke and the preference is for loose looking
pleats suspended from the yoke, without being
mounted on plain skirt: tapes at intervals
pass around the skirt and hold it in place, and
many thin wooden kits, such as mousseline de
laine and bunting, are lined throughout with
paper-muslln. Large loose looking kilt pleats
are more stylish than small close ones. Some
times a large pleat and small one alternate,
while other skirts are box-pleated all around.
In all these skirts wide box-pleat is in
front from the waist down, and many skirts
that are not pleated all around have the front
width laid in great box pleat, with side
pleats turning back from it. This is great
Iea1 in N b1aak ci1l SKIRTS that
of small means use with various over-dresses.
The religieuse pleating of fine, small pleats
the whole length of the front is also much
used. Woolen kilt skirts-and this fashion is
most appropriate for wool goods-have border
of the trimming three inches wide placed near
the bottom. Where greater economy is con
sidered, and the weight of kilt is too great,
box pleats or wool goods, of satin, or of silk
are set at wide intervals down the whole
length of the front of the skirt, and these are
shortened on the sides and back.
Short basques are again revived on account
of the panier drapery of the over-skirt, which
must be very near the belt Basques are also
much worn with belts that may pass all
all around, or else confined merely to the
front. The bouffant scarf-like panier draping
is usually set on the upper part OF the lower
skirt but may be attached to the basque, be-
ginning at the end of the second dart, and
forming three or four folds on the hips or else
the basque may be cut longer and draped in
folds. Sc parate vests are now not so much
used as those sewed in with the basque, and
seen only on top and bottom.
Sashes are suddenly revived in rich brocaded
ribbon, satin, and watered ribbon. Worth
drapes brocaded sash permanently around
the hips and fastens it by very large gilt
buckle on the left side. A brown brocaded
sash is very handsome on the tan and cream
colored wool costumes. Sometimes wide black
watered ribbon is passed around the waist as a
belt and hangs down the front with one very
long fiat loop and two longer ends; this on
black silk costume. With other black dresses
CAV Vatican and Roman sashes are worn in
the careless Oriental style, loose about the hips
and with large knot and long ends hanging
down on one side.
Suits of bunting trimmed with polka dotted
satin of contrasting color are greatly in favor
with young ladies and misses. They are made
with basque and overskirt usually and peated
kilt The over-skirt has pleatings down the
front and sides, if the skirt is not kilt, and is
trimmed with a box-pleated flounce that shows
the satin between each pleat. Blue or brown
satin with polka dots is most us ed on tan, white
and cream-colored buntings; the navy blue
bunting has lost favor. The more expensive
French buntings have kilt skirt and a
| boutfant apron over-skirt that is caught up