The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-03-13
[Harper's Bazar.1.
New York Fashions.

The large bonnets to be introduced with the
| first warm days of spring are not the fiaring
coronet shapes lately worn to frame the face
and Surround it az with halo. The new wide
brims extend forward as well as upward, and
begin.to widen at the point where they first
first leave the crown, just as the old time
CO ops and poke-bonnets did. This widened
Drim is faced inside with shirred satin or with
smooth dark velvet. or else with the daintiest
India muslin; this facing begins an inch or less
from the edge of the fine braid, which is left
bare, and has no wire in it, and the extreme
edge OF the facing is often visible from the
front. The wholesale houses have imported
these large bonnets in the various stylish braids
straws, and chips, aud the millner indents the
brlm according to her fancy or to suit the face
OF the wearer Ladies who trim their own bon
nets VIII md the trimming very simple in an.
pearance, yet not very easy to adjust. The
snlrred facings are easiest for the inexperienced
trimmer; they are cut bias, and are drawn into
the shape of drawing. strings that constitute
the shirring. These shirrings are usually of
light colored satin, especially cream and tea
shades, ,.theslatter being the delicate ii of the
tea rose. The dark velvet facings are, however
more becoming, especially in the dark gar
net and Prince of Wales red shades that ara
most used this season in conjunction with tea
or cream color; next these, gendarme blue, sap
phire, bottle green and black velvet are pre-
ferred. The velvet facing also leaves a bare
edge of the unwired brino, and this edge is some-
times double of the braid. With the red. green
or black velvet facing the outside of the bonnet
will have some cream m-colored satin laid in IL
regular folds or loops down the right side Of the
Crowd, while on the left is single long thickly
eurled ostrich plume of the same shade; this
may begin below the crown and curl up the left
side to the satin on the top, or else it may begin
at the top and hang straight downward. Stin
other hats with garnet velvet facing have smp-
ly two long cream yellow plumes beginning be.
low the crown and curling up to the top, thus
surrounding 1T. Todispose these plumes grace.
tully, to prevent the satin folds and looos from
looking stiffiy regular, and to have the facing
smooth, are necessary items that are not as cas-
lily done as would seem at a glance The laroe
long-looped bows are now worn farther back on
the bonnet, behind wreath or branch of laroe
flowers thickly clustered, or else they are nnt
quite In the middle of the crown. Tbe wbita
oonnets are made especially dressy by the donb.
led strings OF Breton lace In smaller cotta,s
bonnets the brim is faced like those descrihsd
aud the crown is surrounded bv olosa wro.,h
OF large flowers, or of moss or FOLIAGE or sIsa
tne tnree feathers of .he Prince of Wales ayo
usea Win some loosely knotted satin ribbon
AnonR tne new ornaments are straw beads
strung IN frlnges aud in patterns IN oaiIoon
Inc tinsei galloons are also shown in co1o..
q u1usted with silver or with gold Brazilian haat'
les :s. are mounteo on brooches or in SPRAYS with
si. SIna sesti9g TO ornament the brocadss of
oiue snaoes. ana also the white chin ar braid
oonnets. The white crystals are brilliant in
silvered settings III buckles, brooches. orescents
and bees The jet ornaments for black Lace
oonnets ,,1 are tne handsomest yet imported, and
VIII Do largely used again. For the ins;ds Of a
close cottage-shsped black lace bonnet ;s : ro,a
OF graduated jet balls, growing laroer towarJ
the middle, that would answer ver1 wall e. =
Gecklacei yet makes very pretty coronet To
no 'ue SuHe oL oeneE orims are black net gal
outside OF the crown are large butterflies of ;st
presents. leaves, and rings. Tue ornaments
made OF feathers have been described.
=. Droca1eo ripooos are shown in Japanese de-
'lgns delcately tinted, and SO artistically done
hat they look like water-color paintin~s Tnsse
IRE pssutlful on the Tuscan hats for the water
ng- places. '
Rustic straw bonnets. to be worn with morn
ng ana travelling suits, show two or thraa
bright colors mingled with the bIack or brcwn
orald thst forms the greater part of the bonnet
For country use are yellow straws with sst;n.
IKE lustre, trimmed with brocaded red and val
ow game ribbon, formiug an AlsacIan how ha-
llnd bunch OF scarlet p0ppies.
Inc Dlack net bonnets are most oftan all
black, with Jet ornaments, ist festbsrs oaa
black Breton lace for trimmings. ma ,h1 anu
erial OF the bonuet!is Brussels nj Of a .ao a aa
neshess without dots laid smoothiv oea ICY nno lug
.s1s. "a .s Mnen eoIors are used on them, thew
IRE tne new tea shades, old.pold embroidary
' yni.e os FRINGE OF Wales red. For black Chip
,onnets pretty model from Tuyes's has the
laIring orim lined with black satin, on which
IA ialo quite smoothly black lscs embroidered
y.n olu-gold silk to represent leaves. Out
lue are folds of black satin laid carelessly
Iround the left side of the crown, while at the
op OF the right is group of four very small
black tips from which hangs a long black
,lums down to the shoulder
The combination of colors most ssen IL that
IT dark red with cresm-coIor; this Arrangement
5 as popular for blondes as for brunettes by
Vhomi was originally used. The pale Sevres
'lue y USED with tea-color, and to these IL
omeIlmes added JAcqeminot red in the wav Of
9ses or buds not quite blown The oendarma
1ue LOOKS well with cream-color in h-cc,das
graceful round hat of white chin tnrnsd IN
o the right side has the brm faced Ditb osn.
arme b'ue velvet, while around the crown,s
CART of blue and red brocade twined in vim
elVet; one long blue plume ia on the riebt
de- and q red bird is perched in front.
Fanama tweeds are new loosely woven wool
oods Oh light weight.forl spring and summer