Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-02-17
NOTES ON THE Way
3re English " inter Watering Place.


disagreeable weather Of her winter months.
about the best thing that presents itself is run
dlwn 10 Brighton for a fess days Ia this way
one can get 10Th light and warmth, which at
that season OF the year evidently cannot be
Obtained by stranger in London for either love
or money. Not that the facilities for heating
hotel rooms are any better in Brighton than in
London; but the climate OF that place is milder,
naturally; and when the fog rises from the sea.
as II is pretty certain 10 do during the day. the
sun SHINES with considerable warmth, which il
is almost certain not to do in London between
october and March. Besides, Brighton is the
great watering place, or rather the great sea-
side resort for all England, and the winter
months, curiOusly enough, are the height OF its
fashionable season. Therefore. for the double
purpose OF finding more tolerable weather and
TO see something Of English a-Side pleaSur1ng,
TO Brighton we determined to go. The ride
hlther consumed only little more than an
hours time. and was far from unpleasant, even
though the trees were thickly coated with hoar
frost, and many details OF the beautiful pastoral
LANDSCAPES OF Sussex and Surrey through which
we Passed were entirely hidden from view by
recently fallen SHOWS In the spring or early
summer season, VIXEN the hedges are white
with hawthorn blossom and the fields green
with WITH tie promise OF coming harvests, the ride
must be perfectly delightful But, as said it
was far from unpleasant as it was. This cir
CumStance was, however. largely due to Ameri-
can inventive genius. The trip was made In
roClny ard comfortably warmed Pullman parlOr
car, instead of in wretched little boxy English
coach, with only a small hot water tank for
heating purposes. or no warming arrangement
Whatever; for the read between London and
Irrigation IS one OF the few railway lines in Eng
land on which that innovation on the fixed and
Old 1O9y Institutions OF John Bull has been in
trCduced. But, while mOdeied on the American
pan, me English Pullman IS not exactly the
twin brother Of its American prototype II Is
lignier, as well as narrower and shorter and
dotS not therefore run SO smoothly and easily
as thost We are accustomed to. It's conductor
N0ie the wei known uniform Of the guild in
america. however, and the extra charge for
rdln@ iii ii was about the same as In The United
states. 50 tnai In these respects at least we
were reminded OF home, and were thankful
accordingly.
WHAT BRIGHTON Is LIKE AND UNLIKE
once at Brighton we found il as unlike an
American seaside resort as possible Instead
CT being situated on a long, low level sandy
beach, as is customary with us, it Is perched
largely Oh rather steep hill side and the bath
ing neach IS properly speaking, no beach at all.
Ntf Goes sea bathing appear to be one OF the
features OF the place,-at least during "the sea
Son.' Such a thing is done. | believe some
tiiHeS IN the heats OF summer. when few visitors
so tEele, but not at the period which the swellS
call their own. AS | have said the town lies
along and close under a high range of hills: and
to THIS TACT, | suspect, it Is largely Indebted for
It's popularity. These hills St retchinr 10 the
nolthWaTd and eastward. serve to protect 1t
from the idnOrthern winds which sweep down
llon the German sea at this season OF the year
a
favored portions OF the faStanchored isle are
cold and dTear. The beach, so called. would
make ore OF the best battIe-fields Imaginable
for TWO cOntending factions OF village bovs
Surely such inexhauStible fields of large clear
SraVel and round stones Just the right size for
Throwing. were never collected together any
where else in the world. How any one can
muster courage enough to bathe in such place
even When bathing is in order. is more than
can understand. / am told however that by
taxing one or the bathing houses hanging on
m u, y.
shore, and going out some distance a smooth
and finn bed can be found. But on this point /
Can give only hearsay testimony. Itwoud take
a gCod deal to induce me to make any EXPERT
MeHts on my own account.
MUSICAL BEACH.
The beach Is very steep, and the surf does
not amount TO anything to speak Of Visitors
to Brighton have, therefore, very little of the
roar OF the ocean; but, while the breaking O,
the waves makes little or no noise there is one
regularity Of sound that have never observed
anywhere else. The approaching wave rolls uD
Tie rounG s, ores above mentioned with consider
able force and carries them back again some dis
taI:ce when II IecedeS. Of course, when it
cones up the stones are covered. and no sound
is heard, but when it returns the stones follow
IL ana give out peculiar metallic musical
sound much like the ringing Of myriad5 OF
small muffied bells little way Off. The effect,
as may De imagined, Is quite curious and puz-
ZHng at first, but really very pleasant to the
ear.
Brighton ITSELF or more carefully speaking.
Old Brighton. is remarkably quaint and inter
esting place. Many of its buildings are very
Old and both curious and picturesque In an
architectural point OF view. The streets gen
orally, and particularly those along the hill
sdeS, are narrow and crooked, and abound In
queer ard attractive little courts and angles.
This part OF The town has many houses cOnsid-
eIably moie than century old, and on every
slQe ale 10 be seen weather. worn relics OF the
TaSt. Some OF the Sgn-bOardS strike stranger
very eddy; For example, the Brighton UNI
brella-mender, instead OF going about the
streets making the Internal noise which his
American brother seems to enjoy SO greatly
stays quietly at home and puts I'D his sign
,'lospital for Umbrellas and Parasols." Other
business announcements, nearly as curious,
ale to be seen On every hand.
FEATURES AND PECULIARITIES.
The two features of Brighton prominently
named in the guide books are the Pavilion and
the Royal Aquarium. The former was built bv
one OF tie Georges, as his seaside villa but was
Afterwards bought by the corporation, and is
now Used for various purposes. 1t contains the
picture gallery OF the place. the assemble
rooms, or halls for swell balls, entertainments.
etc, and some Of the municipal Offices | be.
EleVe are also located in it, The Pavilion Is
large and rambling affair built somewhat In
the style Of al oriental pagoda and is rather
picturesque and pleasing in appearance. The
grounds, which are ample and well kept, con-
tain many rare and beautiful plants and shrubs
they constitute, IL fact, the principal park OF
The city and are quite place OF resort for its
ftSIueltS. me Aquarium IS one OF the most
extensive and best equipped to be found any
where, II IL Is not, indeed, i'll every respect the
best in the world. 1t is situated close by the
SEA side. 50 that ii is kept constantly supplied
with salt wafer directly from the ocean, aud
contains in better condition than can be seen
alnCSt anywhere else, nearly every kind of
aquatic monster and attraction that has been
taken ard kept alive. The Pavilion and Aqua
rum seem 10 be regarded by the cOmpilerS of
guide books as the features OF the city, but
really The most attractive place by far, and the
ole most freGuented by residents and visitors
alike, is the Espanade. This is wide and mag
mtcently constructed avenue or boulevard,
running along the whole sea front Of the city
1t is some three miles In length, and is Sepa-
paIated from the beach only by broad,
smoothly paved fOotWalk with here and there
bis Ol grass and appropriate shrubbery. AT
some points tins me thOr0ugnfare Is protected
nom the encroachnentS OF the sea by strong
wall or hubble and solid masonry, varying from
ten 10 sixty feet in height, anG security fIOm
accldentS is ensured by an Iron baluStrade run
hing the Whole length From this parapet, par
uculalty at the higher points lovely sea views
die 10 pe mad. and III clear weather the coast or
fiaEGe may easily be seen.
Al distance OF nearly mile apart the two
tStepiated piers CT Brighton extend out into
lGt sea from the Esplanade. These, too, are
latoilte places OF resort. i'll pleasant weather,
dlu especially from sunset until DARK. But the
ESplahade proper is The great attraction. IJ is
Oh tle ESpianaGe that All the stylish turn outs
ana all the fine saddle horses in BIZ. ILon make
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