Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-07-01
L. 1879
& Pa0e.l

Moreover, hard usage, hard work
ne SoftDess and fairness, and those
lsticS which constitute the Chief
Of women and change them into thin
land sall0w objects, whose only safety as
as personal experience goes lies In the I'M
obtrlsivenesS OF plain black.
Women from whose lips, eyes and hair, cheeks
and brow the color and sunlight have not faded
can afford TO array themselves like flowers In
delicate shades OF pink, white and blue, and
provoke no criticism, only admiration. But
with delicacy OF attire the utmost freshness is
required and That means money, and mOuey in
penty, In these days OF wonderful elaboration
anu my stefiouS composition OF toilette and ac-
ceSSOTieS.
OF the possibilities OF color we have hardly
as yet begun 10 dream. The majority of women
have DO opportunity to indulge their tastes in
this particular Their lives are narrowed by
want OF time. place and the limitations of Cir
cunstance The woman who has to look after
houSehoid affairs, go TO the grocery or market
be ready TO attend to a dozen different affairs
in dozen different places without change of
dress, must choose one that fulllS the eSSe atial
conditions of use. unobtruSiveneSS and adapt4-
Ollity; that is TO say, Ii must be short dark and
take out little time to arrange. This is the ne
ceSSty not OF one day, but Of every day in ther
nVes, and fashion, therefore, cannot alter 1t.
Inc possession OF some means does not III 3te-
rally change the aspect OF the case; 1t Is only
where the wealth is so great that the house
hoid Is organized on footing which
relieves It's mistress from Responsibility
that the women of the family can indulge In
cloud-iike draperieS Of lace and muslin, or live
In such charming secluson as renders striking
and unusual display Of color possible. Newport
Is almost the only place In the northern states
where the summer society admits of an enjoy.
ment or an al fresco character In conjunction
with perfect freedom to live and dress accord
ing to individual tastes. In Saratoga Cottages
are attached to big hotels, and the inmates If
they wish TO be retired from observation, must
i've as hermits; put life In Newport is OF less
complex and multifar1Ous character The scot
ETY. is not always composed OF the same people,
our social conditions are too 1iuctuating for that
on. put Is always composed OF people who maintain
the same kind of state and exist upon very near
~ the same footing Of equality and respec-
liability. In these charming villa residences
sedged round by walls OF foliage, which form
as complete barriers to the outside world as
walls Of brick Or stone surrounded by the
beauty and fragrance Of flowers and all the ap.
PliaDces OF luxurious modern life. Women are
naturally dow cred with fairness and delicacy
and take On the daintineSs of soft fabric and
the flush Of rich color as the peach ripens In the
sunshine. There is no keener enjoyment to be
gotten out OF this life than the possession of
those conditions which harmonic with our
tastes and afford an opportunity for their d.
Verslned expression. But the persons who
possess wealth, especially In the country, where
~ Is often suddenly acquired, are not always
the possessors OF refined taste, and, instead of
nnding pleasure In al tistic details of the toilette
CONSIDER e,2Oa Ell the e. necessity which is imposed
helgnDOrS, Wear1sOme and disagreeable
GARDEN PARTY COSTUME.
SOIt CD1DeSe silks are very much affected for
these dresses, or for the polonaise which is
charming one made for recent entertain
ment was striped with satin and dotted with
rose0udS In Pompadour collars. The skirt was
hat leghorn ornamented with red roses and
creamy ostrich feathers. soft ivory SILK.
mace short, was trimmed with wide embrOid-
elsa bands Ia distinct pattern OF dropping red
ana white fuchsias. Very long white lace mltts
reached TO the edge of the silken lace ruffies of
ane sleeve, ana cnlp hat, trimmed with a
wreath OF fuchsias and fodlard parasol en-
oroidered to match the dress, completed the
costume. A black dress Of very narrow Striped
ana Drocaded grenadine over satin was en-
Ilcned at the sides with cascades of let. The
OF small yellow roses, the brim of lace aud Ter.
lined with shtrred yellow satin. very sim,
PIE out perfectly charming dress for a young
girl was OF delicate lilac muslin trimmed with
NseiI ana additional interior pleatings of fine
creme isse. -
A coarse straw bonnet which ACCOMPANIED it
was ornamented with thick wreath OF mig
nonette, and was set at the left of the corsage.
Pfnafore costumes are very popular for gar
Den and eroquet parties. The ptnafore Is a
square Iunlc, BACK and front tied together upon
the shoulder with ribbons. the sides united In
the same way. There Is no fullneSs and they
are worn over perfectly plain high dresses of
muslin, SILK, Cambria, Bingham, liner lawn,
terage, or any other light tissue mat may be
fancled. One Of the prettiest anu most striking
CT these Pfnafore costumes was compcaed OF
alternate lace and muslin tied with red ribbons
over OYER dress OF black grenadine. The hat was
black straw, and the feature of the trimming
was red rose as large as sun-fower, which
haS been introduced this season for the first
tme. me Pinafore Is not always different in
coior and material from the slip or dress over
which 1t Is worn. A fayortte style is made 10
daFk blue cambria or linen, trimmed with linen
ACE or embroidery and ribbons of the same
trimmed with white embroidery and satin rib,
Don OF the prevailing tints faced with con-
trasting color.
H ID hardly possible that any revolution In
fashion can seriously interfere at present with
me tendency to sweetness long drawn out"
which exists and is fostered by the present
craze On the subject OF art. Shortness and
stint1ness are not tolerated either In women or
the designs for their Clothing, and the return
10 Iotundlty or ounch1ness Of cut or form, viii
certainly not take place for years to come. The
expectation that with the revival of figured
laDr1cS would come back the dolly Warden,
hoops and panniers, has so far not been real
Leo- designs still follow the outline of the hu-
man form, and are cut and shaped to diminish
the breadth and give as much length as possible
70 tne human fgure; even the notifications of
tie panniers which have been introduced are
draped so closely over the hips as NOT 10 in
crease their size unless they are deficient In
natural proportion, and the drapery at the
PACK SIMPLY masses itself into graceful folds,
which are lost In the sinuous movements OF the
Small rounded train. Even the cOmmonest and
simplest dresses obey this new law, and have
oeen modltied and very much improved under
Morning dresses consisting OF sacuue and
SKIRT were formerly neither neat nor becoming,
because the Sacque was short In proportion to
the skirt, and so loose as to be almost shapeess
NOW sacque and skirt Of delicate muslin or linen
lawn Is one OF the prettieSt OF costumes, for the
saeque is long, high cut upon the shoulders and
50 Wen SNAPPED 10 the figure as to make the
dress seem complete instead OF a mere dis
habille. This style OF dress Is used for summer
wear In the morning almost universally, both In
the city and country; the skirt. walking length.
being more COL Tenient than that of wrapper,
and long Sact re, with Its border OF white lace
or White embrC derry, being more sui able for
The out-of-dOor lounge or walk than the too
great freedom OF the robe de chanabre. The
trimming or course should be suited to the ma
terial-embroidery for gingham or cambria
Linen lawn may be ornamented with hand
MADE linen lace or embroidery, according to
taste.
Outdoor jackets have been superseded almost
entirely by the small round cape mantalette
and nchu instead OF jacket with a pOlonatse
as formerly, small cape or large double collar
completes the costume, aud nchuS or manta-
ieteS or style similar TO the kathleen, Illus
frated In the present number, are employed
Tor church wear, and When a garment is needed
TO complete suit, consisting OF trimmed skirt
and basque. The fashionable tOurnureS are
very small and OF two kinds One Is for use
with side paniers, and Is intended especially for
ladies who lock full noturaI developments, and
the other for those who require some slight aid
TO hold the fulneSS gathered in the form OF puffs
or draD at The hack In DOSitfOn