The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1879-10-31
LETTER FROM SCOTLAND.
EpMpuReu, Scot, Oct. z, 1879.


MR. EDrToR:-. As the tourist passes
through that wild and romantic scenery,
which lies between Loeb Lomond and
Callander, and which has been pictured
90 graphically by Scott on the pages of
his "Lady of the Lake" and "Rob
Roy" there Is no object that strikes the
eye with moro interest and curiosity
than the solitary abode of those heroes
who made those writings so popular.
The presence of these rudely built
dwellings, dotting the rugged pathway
here and there, at first surprise the
traveller, who looks in vain for the
means Of subsistence In the neighbor-
hood, then amuse him, and finally be-
come an unnoticed yet essential part of
the grand picture before him. All that
the average tourist sees of them, as he
rolls by in the Grove ded coach, is simply
their unshapely exterior with grass
grown roof, dingy window, and perhaps
an unwashed face, tempted by some
idle curiosity to see the gay votaries of a
far-of busy world.
IL was my fortune to edo" this pict-
uresque region in q more humble but
far more satisfactory manner, viz, on
WV IL OothPaffl Wltu au
companion: and we took the opportu.
nifty of making as thorough an exami-
nation of these highland huts as our
sense ofgood taste would allow. Leav-
ing onr steamer on Loch Lomond at In.
versnaid one bright September morning
we turned our backs on the Alpine
peaks Of Ben Arthur, with the cobbier
and his wife sitting amicably on their
submits, and climbed the steep hill
which leads to the pass to Loeb Katrine.
To our right rose Ben Lomond clear
and bare. Beside us ran Arlslet Burn,
which tumbles into Loch Lomond at
Inversnaid in most beautiful cascade,
which gave Wordsworth the locality
and inspiration for his "Highland Girl.'
We soon found ourselves on level
road in moderately broad and wind
ing valley shut in by low, bare, heath
covered hills. The morning coach, with
its prancing four-in-hand and its twenty
odd passengers crowded on its broad,
open top, rolled by us at this point and
was quickly lost in the distance. AS the
rumbling OF the wheels grew fainter the
silence became oppressive. Nothing
could be heard save the gurgling of the
brook, and now and then the bleat of a
distant sheep as it wandered on the
hillside. The silence was not more no.
ticeable than the utter absence of life
and motion. Sitting down by the road
side you could just distinguish the
sheep as they fed amidst the purple
blooming heather. AT the foot of the
hill beyond the brook solitary figure
could be seen spreading hay In small
nf ,.nfonCoA nd H.,
advance of us, in what looked like o
loose pile of stones, was his home. AS
we approached nearer it vindicated to
some evtent its character as an abode
of man. The hut was about twenty feet
by twelve, six feet to the caves and
was crowned by low, matched roof,
on which in process of maturity was o
fair crop of grass. In, front, a small
window with four lights OF glass re-
lieved the unmortared wall. Seeing no
entrance we went around one side and
found a small running brook, with tub
to catch the water. A small doorway
appeared, surrounded by various imple-
ments of both outdoor and indoor labor.
Rapping on the half closed door it as
opened by stout and intelligent ma
tron, who answered few questions
about our route in pleasant and INTEL
ligibly Scotch brogue and kindly offer
ed us glass ofiwater. Stepping within
the door, while the little girl ran to the
spring, we found ourselves in small
room hardly ten feet square, with an
earthen floor, large fireplace, a table,
etc. While my companion talked with
our hostess about the weather, took
the opportunity to take brief survey
OF the apartment, which seemed to be
the only one in the house. On the 0p.
posite side from the fire recess in the
wall contained two beds or hunks, one
over the other; on another side stood Q
bulky mahogany bureau, which had the
aspect OF being an heirloom long in the
possession of the family. Over the fire.
place licked loudly an old-fashioned
table, which answered all purposes iron
kneading the dough to washing tn,
dishes. However uncomfortable ap
peared these close quarters they did no
seem to be at ali injurious to the healtl
or good humor Of its occupants, wht
chatted freely and easily with us al
long as we remained. AS we went ou
of the deor and bid our benefactres
good morning, with coin for her trou
BILE, we noticed small opening into tn,
same building, which was obviously tn
pen for the goats, which furnish tn,
milk used for all household purposes
The sheep have to be driven down int,
the lowlands as winter comes on, 70
there is barely enough fodder to sustain
the lite Of the goats through the coll
winter months.
Passing along Loeb Katrine an,
down through the Trossaehs, we say
lmany ofthese huts. Most of them wer
, somewhat better constructed than th
,, one described, having two apartment
/ and mortared walls. Here and there
. small garden was adjoining, wit
plums, cabbages and potatoes. Cowi
pigs, hens, ducks were seen at timei
: Curtains adorned a few windows, morn
ing glories grew about the doorway
the homemade beath-broom ivariabl
rested beside the doorstep, and acroi
the way the mornings washing fluttere
in the breeze, with its brilliant colorin
of red and blue and green. Such al
the abodes of the descendants of II
McGregors, the Rob Roys and the Ma
] farlanes, and the tourist of to-ds
would sadly miss these reminders
those barbarous yet heroic days. Rut
and inhospitable as they may seem
many, they contain intelligent peop
/ nossessed with n rare cheer and