New-York tribune., 1879-10-01
THE FASHIONS.
AUTUMN OPENING DAYS.


OF the tropics The plain house swallow is not disre-
garded IN fact swallows and sparrows dye easily
that they form slight array among the plan-coiored
and variegated birds The small feathers OF the hum
best barnyad fowl purchased IN enormous quanti-
ties dyed black or IN brilliant coors, and sewed one by
one to yards OF netting and then made into costly
feather bonnets Ostrich pumos are dyed In patches
of gorgeous tints to match the irdescent
beads and Persian silks that Skinner and gilt
ter like fairy spectacle III the mneT's show rooms
The change in bonnes aud hats consists more IN tner
cOors and trimmings than IN their shapes The grace
fui little Fanchon has returned after long oblivion
Beads are used in enormous Quantities In addition To
the passion for Jet there great display Of rainbow
tinted beads OF tho most startling contrasts, copying
the r1ch stu1s Of Persia and Egypt
An olive-green velvet poke-bonnet is trimmed with
wide bias twilled drab satin surrounding the crown,
fastened The sides and extending in very strings
over the satin Is placed broad band OF passementere
embroidered with beads OF every Imaginable color An
ostrich plume. embodying all the brightest hues. Is
placed near and held by the head and breast OF
an orange-coored cOckaoo The inside OF the brim Is
lined with shirTed olive velvet and gold cord finishes
the edge bonnet from the Parslan house OF Tuyec is
extremely large with square and raised front.
and made OF mixture OF satin and plush shirred
cardinal velvet lines tho brim and contrasts in
lovely manner with wide gold-c0Ored satin sirings.
and yellow parrot stretched across one side.
The fashionable red bonnet reappears this season IN
cardnared Fanchon Of satin antique laid Oh The frame
In loose puff and covered with black lace embroidered
with Jets cluster tiny birds having the coors
OF red and black placed top aud set singy on
sides and back. The on red satin strings are COW
cred with corresponding lace Another little Fanchon
of olive Ottoman velvet has the br and edge covered
with bronze Brazilian bugs bunch Of three black ana
olive ostrich feathers droops over the 'front.' and band
bias olive satin passing from the serves also for
long strines The absence Of face thinning Is notice
able. all brims being simply lined with PLAIN or shrred
satin velvet mostly edged with gold braid. Some of
the strings Indian blue dusky olive twilled silk
have stripes down the centre Of brilliant cashmere RIB
bOn and finished the ends Win marrow peatlngs
Of point desprL Marie Stuart bonnet Of the close
shape has new soft crown OF japanese blue
crackle velvet; the front IL satin closely shirred
and superb merle br0nst-a blue and black
Brazilian birds perched on the side The brim is
edged with a narrow galoon Of cashmere beads and
lined with yellow sAiITed satin. bonnet OF thc modi
led Carmen shape has a crown made of the gorgeous
breast feathers OF tropical Bird the front il
velvet embroidered around the edge IN floral pat
tern with beads suung tue eolnrs Of the feathers.
similarly shaded ostrich plume droops around one sdc
ned by a parrots head and breast; the broad twied
satin strings fastened al the sides by little clasps OF
iIiicsccut steel black bonnet g. made entirely OF
small black feathers edged with dull, oval hcad ana
trimmed with 0lachbrd resting on cus'r ~ cathei
tins Tho strings are wide black lace ulmmed on one
bonnet made OF tiny feathers Lard fat. is on birds
hrens Aas two blacibrds peIchod the top III bows
Of black jci-emblOdcI, lace Each tiny feather j.
tipp,d with htte let Narrow set fringe edges the
'front.'. Tho square crown las q llcated embroidered
lace nounce falling behind Tho strings are OF finest
Cnantilly lace.
Among the most striking bonnets are those made OF
two strongly contrasting coors. an amher-lued plush
lining IS shirreG the brm OF olive satin bonnet ana
lie crown is surrounded ly an exquisite blending oi
feathers ike the ground work OF cashmere shawl The
shot velvet having changcaOle effect like tinsel laid
under some transparent fabric, used comDined
with lighter shade 0f totally different color, and THIS
lack o roposo s increased by the multitude 81 gay CASH
mere beads and frinecs. great many CROWDS of bon
nets are embroidered Sh yariegated beads aud copper
spanges Others with jets IN such shapes "a stars, roses
nnd floral garlands. Oihor decorations are large ball
headed pins studded with oolorsd beads in imitation OF
euumol Ggrsc yellow gold balls and antique daggcrs
are Go be similarly used There bands made Of up
turned hummng birds heads showing glancing, eeam-
lug tnroas and sharp bills. The most petufeque and
charming OF al The hes are tne hiOad-nrlmned SIX luI
beavers the fluffy SILKY Iuf OF thc inner nilm Us wen
as the outer lending mde,crlhahle softncss
and shadowy beauty 10 tie face hencaih. some
OF these come III tle creamy tl"! ''ol ,l u''il
with long ostrich plume Gelicateiy
shaded aud held In place by an Owls hcai ana DFea.t,
black silk fur beaver hat oi tne DeNohsmre snae ms
several black ostrich puiues sweeping bdch iIon Tue
after cong quite around the crown as over me I'it
side. gray plush capoto IS trimmed WIN JHl'Icsc
the head showing tie CHANGING beautiful coors oi the
breast Melted patterns beaded with Jet ana cashmere
bcaos come in shapes Tor bonnet crowns and fronts as
well ~ iruges; IL Is therefore simple matter Tor
ladies to make their own Donuets 0i VeNrt or ohef ma
teria and nttle deficiency IN Norhmanshil can Dc |
hidden 10y the bead work, feathers ana birds. charm
mir glcd with plush Of the same shade with tint OF
cream. a long blue ostrich plume falls grace
fully across the front and IL careies-y las |
tened ON the lett sde with group OF /
nf Z fue lusf
very much wider tnau those OF last season one style
SHOWS bias shot SIX made double, having trimming
the centre Of some bright ribbon of oriental design
sometimes the ribbon forms bordering al TIC bottom
edges win the addition of narrow pleatng Of Breton
or I0inI a. 'esprt lace Again strings made OF
safiu striped with velvet, or Persian figured SILK COM
bined with plain satinantlque. The new fancy Is 10
have strings the top Of the crown, ana fastened
al the sides with some snc ornament as the DIGIe
beetles Brazil birds head or claws JET steel or
gold dagger baileaxe. nttle rOsettcs OF birds ieath-
ers buckles rdosconi nues or long, goldheaded pins.
Preparations for Winter toilets are being conducted
on magnificent scale. OF the fabrics OF embossed
velvet have creamy grounds giticTing with nne
gold threads. silver ls also nter"ONeh III the neshes
OF al purple and amarauth; On bridal occasions or
for evening wear natural mowers are tteieiIeo'
The bride is no longer 'ohhheu 10 the con !
ventional orauge-DlOssoms superb wedding dress |
wide graceful taber aud back drapcTy composed Ot |
combination OF satin ana satin brocade are trimmed |
wn ponle duchesse lace aud clusters OF "e roses aud
orange flowers. The square cut cOrsage and elbow |
sleeves are similarly trimmed some OF me mldal iai
Ics of richest dnmask, embossed velvet brocades and
satlns family united with rose or IVORY. These
costly SUNS hlt hlN WIN ldln VIZ
vet OF the exquisite Chamhery gHuzes having satin |
stripes embossed velvet figures Bridal flowers ar
ranged charming accessories 10 the toilet.
nc 90 ~ oranrr.hos'o,ns Snanie,s ,or ~ the
snoudcrs long dropping sprays To hne behind with the
L. ana frnges 10 be- placed wherever needed Some
times white lilac c.Cnatls T. mingled In these floral
seis great pfofusiOu of lace Is combined with the
flowers. The ue veil unhemmed IS more fashionable |
than any other style. Among Oner elegant dresses
IA reception costume of black velvet finished the
Qrapery with hne hand-work embroidery. A plea ed |
nOunce lined with velvet completes the bottom
OF the skirt The tablier drapery ls also embroidered
and has OF fringe aud satin ribbon eubOdy
Ing the varied coloTs the silk embroidery. vide |
putting lined with cerise satin - placed on the left side
The paurr- que also einbr6 lercd IA trimmed with
fringe and ribbon: the sleeves reach the wrist and
completed with IN embroidered cum superb black |
silk Prnce.se dress has tram scvcntl-fV inches III
L.-. -. ~. --n.-.