The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1879-10-15
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Fashion Fancies.

FUN HE F9lh SEAs
Fashion Fancies.
The NEST noticeable point about the
new fabrics is the brightness of their
colors. It would be eXaggeration to say
that the somber shades which have so
long held sway are no longer fnshiona-
BIZ. On the contrary, they form the
basis of the greater number Of new cos
tunes. But in most cases they are COM
bined with gayer materials brocades,
bright with tiny blossoms; bourettes,
sparkling with threads of scarlet and
gold. or are trimmed with brilliant en-
broidery. Prominent among the gay
dress goods are the shot s~ilks-change-
able silks our grandmothers called them.
Ducks breast blue, pigeons throat,
lizard green, ruby shot with %gold-these
! are some of the favorite shades. Under
the gasl;ght these sparkle and glitter
like the plumagc Of some tropical bird.
Wooden fabrics-cashmeres and camel's
hairs-are also shot, and when made up,
although combined with the gravest
colors, form exceedingly brilliant COS
tunes.
A great many striped satins and vel
vets appear, and these, too, are frequently
in the gayest shades Indeed, it would
almost seem hat she who wishes to be
clad handsomely and in the fashion, but
is unwilling to deck herself, like Dinah.
in gorgeous array, has no refuge but
black. This last is rs fashionable as
ever, and is still selected by ladies who
buy but few handsome dresses, and who
vet do not care to be known by their
clothes.
The favorite style of the season has a
curtain shaped overdress, Topped back
from the front of the skirt, which is
plated, pulled, sllirred or plain, rs fancy
may elect Belted bodices, with wide
clusters of shirring in the back. below
the belt, are much liked. Shirred sur
plice fronts promise to be very popular.
For these take a straight strip of ma
terial, aquarter of a yard wide and long
enough to reach the belt, or as much
below as may be desired, allowing for
is being drawn up''in stirring. Hem it
on both sides and turn the upper edge
down, to form an inch-wide rutflle on
the shoulder, where it is sewed to the
dress. Shirr it in wide clusters at inter-
walls offs few inches, leaving the ends
plain. The ends are to be tucked into
the belt or crossed under a bouquet, as
preferred. 49,.
Basoues are long and either pointed in
front, sloping up on the hips, above the
panier, or are turned back in wide
| revers. The new ~polonaise is buttoned
to the waist line only, or else to the usual
length of a cuirass basque; thence it
| opens and sweeps back from the skirt
underneath. Behind it is moderately
long and slightly drapcd. In some
models cores are let in on the hips to
form paniers. Cuirass bodices arc re-
modelled by arranging scarf paniers on
the hips. They are let in just below the
darts in front and draped as a sash be-
hind. The same %expedient is adopted
for princesse dresses, the panier in both
cases being draped quite low down.
Fichus are a mania. Scarfs of white
net are worn by everybody. on the street
and in the house. They are either pin
ned close around the throat or draped as
@ V-shaped fichu, with the dress turned
in at the threat. Handkerchiefs of
sheer muslin, trimmed with lace, are
much worn, and q recent fashion is a
plain square of India null, with a deep
hem, worn knotted loosely around the
throat.
The variety of hats and bonnets is in
finite. Prominent among recent impor-
tations is the old-fashioned poke bonnet,
coming down over the cars and rising
high in front. Gainsborough and Ruhen's
shapes reappear,' and wide brimmed
hats will be bent in all manner of forms
during the coming season rs they have
been the last. If a mar were to crush
his hat rs the ladies do, where, asks an
exchange, would people think he had
been the night beiorep The brims of
these hats are ali lined, and the dark lin
ing Of velvet or satin is very becoming.
Black may be worn by any complexion.
Blondes do well to choose dark blue or
seal brown-the latter IS especially effec-
tive with golden hair-while brunettes
should wear dark crimson or reddish
brown. The new orange shade, known
as caramel, is also becoming to brunettes.
Philadelphia Times.
Some Hints III Dress Effects for Tall and
short Women.
Both tall and short women are under
obligations to the incoming. styles OF
dress. They are such rs a. be readily
made becoming to either the stately,
the petite, or the medium-sizcd woman.
Let Short women beware of very bout
FAINT paniers, and of many rufles,
Aounces or trimmings of any kind, run
ming horizontally around the dress.
Anything that breaks the continuous
lines from the shoulder or neck to the
bottom, of the skirt should be avoided
by the petite young lady. Plastrons
down the front of the skirt, straight,
narrow w%aistcoatS, and basQues that are
either very long, or with very long
points back and front, and long, pointed
panier draperirs, and long, square trains,
will give IN appearance OF height to the
short, and should be avoided by the tall
woman. Short girls should not wear
square, Pompadour-cut corsages. Their
short necks will seem longer, and their
plump persons longer and slenderer. in
a corsage opening en- chdlc. and with
long points or basques below the waist
line. One deep iounce in kilt plaits at
the bottom of their skirts is all the trim
ming allowable at that point.
A plastron extending to the foot in
front, with deep plaits Ia a relgieuse on
each side and long side cores slightly
wrinkled en- panier, will assist in giving
the effect Of slenderness and height.
Long draperies, sweeping in diagonla
lines backward from the waist line in
front, assist in creating this illusion.
Very low corsages and wide belts short
women should not wear; and their
sleeves should be either very long or
very short.
Tall women should seek effects the
reverse of all this. Their skirts may be
adorned with many flounces, which may
be made fluffy, with shirrings and mar
row knife-blade plaitings. Square pom
padour corsagcs, elbow sleeves, boufiant
paniers, waistcoats of varying breadth
ut different points of the corsage, en-
closed under jackets with wide and
deeply-cut revers, and large collars,
large cuffs on the sleeves when long
sleeves are worn, and horizontal effects
in draperies and parts of the toilets.
all have the effects ofshortening the ap-
parent height. The p~aniers may be
draped high, and the back draperics
looped bouiant. Short round skirts
can be worn TO advantage, and the train,
when long for ccrcmonious toilet,
should be deliberately trimmed. Scarf
draperies. too, may be- applied to break
the longitudinal lines Of the dress, and
celcrs sharply contrasting, and two or
more fabrics may be applied in hOri-