Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-01

Of the middle ages Or It my be ornamented
beads are intezmixed, or with o lea. pattern OF
beads upon lace. II buttons are nsei, not 10 Ore
than s1 or eight are required, ard, II pos sb 9,
are are artistic; delicate painting or enamel are
designs and by good artists, and next to these
something distinctive in carved or inlaid pearl
very rich seufis are imported for coats by lead
four and 1ve yard lengths Some Of these are
1 brocaded and others embroidered. Some are in
stripes and others In Persian mixtures or cash
mere c0l0rS, though the cashmere blending OF
color Is not necessarily confined to cashmere
patterns, the range Of which Is very restricted
There are mixtures In rich embroidered stufs,
the patterns Of which are small but completely
cover the ground, and look well with plain
skirts Of gendarme blue velvet or some shades
of peacock blue, speckS of which appear in all
tremely wen also with very dark green, but the
1 bronze shades do not make up well as skirts;
they are better as coats or dresses, enriched and
frightened with dark bronze and iridescent bead
embroidery.
While close fitting jackets and coats have be-
! come part Of elegant indoor dress, the fitted
garments have been retired in a degree from
| outdoor service, and the dolman, or a garment
| which Is q sort Of cross between the dOlman and
| uistte, only longer, and with shoulder pieces
forming long Sleeves, has taken their place
| The back is narrow, and shaped so as to At the
form, but the sleeve gives 1t the dolman appear
| duCt, Wlult Uuc 1TOuI ISSudWlSndDSu, SUTdlglU
and closed from the top to the bottom. The
| newest and most elegant OF these garments is
made of cashmere cloth, hand-wrought India
manufacture. 1t is lined brown or bronze satin
and bordered with a very thick ruching Of
fr1nged peacock feathers. OF course, they are
very expensive, from $3.50 to $500 each. Bat
silk Our lined), seal skin and cloth coaks follow
the same model, which is suitable only for mid
dle-aged ladies' for it is not at all youthful in
appearance. Fur. IL must be said. has received
| almost it's death-blow in the long succession of
/ mild q continued n a
| very remarkable october. Fur dealers and
ready cloak makers always say that no matter
how severe the latter part of the season may be,
IL 1t Is mild In the earlier portion the sales of
warm winter garments reach much smaller
aggregate than if the contrary is the case.
| COLOR
The consideration of color has been lifted into
higher place In the general question OF dress
| by the Importance which has of late attached to
1t artiSticay and even scientifically. Still, 1t Is
too broad and too nice subject to be dealt with
| In paragraph or Illustrated individually, eX-
cept by those who add to the time and money
| they can devote to the subject all the advAn-
| tage OF thorough culture and wide experience.
The best that the majority can do is to avoid
| glaring faults and discrepancies by adhering to
| safe dark and neutral tintS
| Certain shades of blue are rare and very fash
| tonable this season, but they are not easily OBJ
| tanned. They are the old blue Of calico printed
| fifty years ago-an amethyst blue in which is a
| deeper tinge of violet A stone blue which has
depth but no surface brightness, the duller
shades of peacock blue, in which there is but
| little green, and the gen'darme blue, pale old
willow china shade; which is so often confound-
ed with Others II totally unlike Itself The darkest
| digo, both OF which are almost black,
are used for street dress, the lighter shades are
employed in coteline and cashmere for house
! dresses, especially by young ladies who trim
| them with straight bands OF fine imitation
| India cashmere or with Irish point and ribbons
matching in color. great many simple cesa-
| quins and pOlona1Se are made OF these materials
and colors and worn over plain skirts of velvet
innocent OF tiounce or plating, or ruffied black
| silk skirts may be utilized in this way High
| cOlOrS, and what short time ago would have
| been considered extraordinary cOlOrS, are ven-
| tured upon nowadays and no one criticiSes or
| condemns. Very broad ribbons with stripe of
| solid color down the center and chinZ or
cross or diagonal lines to make part of the tab
lier to fill In the sides of the basque or make one
long band down the front or back Of the toilette
in any solid neutral color. Plaid silk is used in
| the same way upon wool, the plumS, the
reds and other high colors In plaids, being very
dark this season, and often shot with black or
| very dark brown. Shot silks are employed just
| as everything Is, by those who have a fancy for
| them, but they are preferred for rich Innings or
inexpensive fabrics such as satin de Lyon, by
| elderly ladies, who remember with affection
| the shot silk and satin cevanttne (Which satin
| de Lyons resembles) of their youth. The
| triumph OF colOrs may be said to have been
manipulated as it is to-day, that all sorts of
| compilations wear all sorts Of cOlorS, and find
them, through skillful blending or softentng
| association, entirely becoming and capable OF
adding new expression to beauty.
BEAD TRIMMINGS.
The novelties In Jet and bead trimmings, and
they are very costly Instead of the Old-faShOned
| paSsamentr1es, we have tiny beads embroidered
| on net work of lace in exquisite real lace pat
| terms, fringes arranged as breast plates, plaS-
irons and panels, beads forming the entire front
Of short skirt and wrought into most lovely
variety OF color and shading adaptS this style OF
| characterization to any dress and produces most
brilliant iridescent-eff All the shades OF
| amber, OF bronze, OF wine, OF dark green and
ruby appear separately or together, and the dark
blended masses are most effective upon black.
| Amber shades upon net over amber satin are
| extremely distinguished, while bronze mixed
| with ruby or darker wine colors and dark green
| satin or velvet lights it up Singularly like con-
| cealed fire. The broad bead lace5 and bead en-
| dresses, separating the back from the front, or
for the back of mantles or the front of boddlceS.
| The work Of making these trimmings Is enOr-
NOUS They are as fine, delicate, complicated
and difficult as real lace and cost quite as much
| OF course they are imported. The work could
not be done here and would not be, for it is star
walton, and we have not yet the class who would
| spend their time upon 1t.
| BUTTONS.
Buttons have become ve1J important ad.
| junct and a very expensive one, from seven tC
| ten dollars per dozen Is not at all unusual and
| at least dozen and a-half are required for the
jacket with its double breast, its lappels, its
| pockets and its cuffs. They are not of Kind
| either that address themselves very strongly to
the imagtnations OF the crowd. The finest ara
composed Of carved and tnlaid pearl, a lower
grade of iridescent pearl, and the commonel
| sorts still, of horn, grained wood, vegetable
| ivory, and the like. Dark polished horn, In
which many standings are visible, are almost as
| handsome as pearl and are greatly to be pre-
| ferred to vegetable, ivory or painted wood
Grained and 1nlaid wood are sometimes very
beautiful, but painting is only admissible wheI
1t is very fine or associated with a sentiment OF
| a character. Buttons are principally used fol
| jackets or wOOllen dresses, the former exhibit
them often as their only trimming, while the
latter also are rendered more or less distinctive
| by their style, character and significance. Wher
used upon the latter, however, the employment
| OF them is not confined to the boddIce but eX-
extends to the side panels Of the skirt, which L
| very often studded with them, and If they art
handsome and adapted to the fabric this ar.
rangement upon dress Of plain wool is very
| effective.
THE NEW HATS
maintain their character for originality and
brilliant picturesqe effect The same contrasts
| however, exist in head gear that are formed III
other departments of ladies' clothing, and thu
| most fashionable mtllinerS instead of mixing
them all up together, now arrange them witt
some attempt at classification. The finest nov
city of the season Is undoubtedly what is known
as the feather" bonnet. This Is composed
almost wholly of mounted feathers, taken from
the neCkS of peasants, at least half q dozen o