Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-09-01
THE EVENING STAR.
september L, 1879.
NEW FALL FASHIONS.
Autumn Materials Of Home and
Foreign Manufacture Costumes
and '.Picture'' DresseS-The Bust.
ness Outlook

AAcoS OuuOOAs
From Our Otrn Correspondent
NEW YORK, August, 1879.
There never was better outlook for bust
ness OF all kinds, and especially that belonging
TO manufactured products, than this season.
We have not only recovered largely from the
many and dire results OF the civil war, but the
wide-felt depression has stimulated genius, SKILL
enterprise and industry to such an extent as 70
lift the whole country out OF its dependence on
foreign nations for its important supplies and
place 1t not only on an Independent basis, but
in the attitude OF competitor In markets mere
tofore controlled by England and France It
has taken some years, many experiments and
few failures to bring about this condition OF
things, but the result has, after all, been
achieved In remarkably brief space Of time
and American manufactures now occupy posi-
ton where they are no longer ashamed of the
light OF day, but are able boldly to avow their
origin and, abroad at least, find the Amer.
can" stamp badge OF honor rather than a
sign or disrepute. The enormous carpet trade
has become almost exclusively American
Dealers, even the largest, do not pretend Co
keep any but home made goods; they ayow
that 1t is no use that the quality Is equal in the
diherent Kinds to any of those imported. the
colors as fast, the designs better, more In ac-
c0rdaDce with modern Ideas, and they can be
SOLD at one.half the price. 1t is, therefore OBJ
Fl Tna mat importatons are useless.
Ihere was time when carpets or American
manufacture and, In fact, all fine woolens IN
which nXity OF color was essential, were under
aGloua, ana II was considered doubtful II from
climatic or other causes auy attempt az pro-
duclng high-class wooden fabrics In varieties OF
hlgh or fancy color would not prove failure.
EEaipe,s, rlch IN appearance, equal to the finest
Euopedn MoQuette were so soon s.Off Color in
places where light struck them or the contact
or feet wore upon the surface. that they were
egulValent 10 failure for genuine Moquette
may be subjected to hard service for ten wears
ana still be good for ten years more Fine
cloths, too cut into mems trousers, looked
rubbed" at the knees before the first button
"a M rod fnof hat,
English cashmere until long after it has
been remanded to the keeping OF the valet.
But. all these difficulties have now happily
been got over-knowledge and experience have
taught what were the Indispensable re1uire-
mentS to excellence in the preparation OF the
raw material, as Well as In its manufacture
INTO fabric, and the lessons have been so well
learned that In England to-day, the home OF
manufacture, an American cloth of cotton or
wool Is synonymous with pure article, practf-
cally adapted TO its purpose. DOUBTLESS, for
as manufacturers have had lizard" time. For
few years previous the war. and the specu-
lative mania that succeeded it, had run up
prices TO fabulous heights. Merchants had only
TO SIT still and count their gains: everything
sold; goods and articles that had lain upon the
shelves for years suddenly acquired value, and
turned into greenbackS, II not into gold This
could not last always: the downward tendency
came and was not near SO pleasant, and with
IL the stimulus to American manufacture and
many experiments which proved disastrous to
buyers, as we'll as to sellers; but at last bottom
seems to have been reached. and business
established again upon what promises to be a
before American trade interests@one is the
tendency and temptation to overdo whatever
gives any reasonable hope OF success the other
deterioration In the quality of the product the
cause from which England is at present suffer
Ing, for it was this which made IL 80 easy to get
away her customers.
NOVELTIES IN AUTUMN MATERIALS
All the ordinary materials now In use for
nfn
tons, and IN the essentials viii compare favor
ably with any goods imported, while In color
and In the taste displayed In design they are
foreign fabrics. In fact there is a curious cor.
reSpondence between the lower class OF goods
here and the higher class seLt from abroad
the same direction. The buyers OF our great
ladies clothing houses do not find the fabrics
and costumes, the designs and combinations OF
color all ready made to their hand, and laying
around loose so to speak. The ideas are In
many instances, one might almost say 10 the
majority, sent on from here and executed to
order, and this Is particularly the case In re-
color VI
But to return to our American manufactures.
The styles this season are very good-the col
ors for street wear are the finest cloth shades,
and there is peculiar clearness Of texture
winch shows clean and thorough preparation OF
The crude wool. The novelty. ia suitings is
''Momle" cl0tn, sometimes called mummy cloth
In solid coiors and dark cloth shades. 1t is &c
inches wide, so that it cuts to excellent advan-
tage, and may be made up with the tailor,
finish or stitching, and buttons only, or COM
biIed with Monte cloth OF the same shade in
which lines Of two colors OF silk thread form
narrow clustered stripes which are at the same
time neat and vivid In their effect. This striped
material is used for vests, cuffs, collars, folds
for lappelS, Similating coat pockets, and for
whatever the figured or combination fabric
may oe required 10 the way OF mounting
Camels hair cloths reappear with thicker.
warmer body, and fine hairy surface. The long
SILKY black hairs, and the short almost Invisible
White ones giving decidedly foreign appear
ance to the finish. These cloths are much more
sfylfshly completed as suits without contrast
ing fabric: The form of the costume should be
stitching as fine, the edges may show lining of
silk, or satin, but only buttons should complete
the exterior ensemble.
Bourettes come back to US In very small neat
patterns. The knotted cords form part of the
solid body, and the sllken threads introduced in
the brightest colors show only the minutest
dresses over dark silk, or velvet skirts, and the
mount1ngS, bows, and the like should be of SILK
or velvet like the skirt, though high color like
gold or garnet may be associated with 1T.
Heavy cloths for street jackets show the same
cteanness OF texture that has been previously
remarked, and are In t1ne dark mixed, or clouded
There are also all wool tweeds In rich, dark
mixtures, which make very handsome ulsters
and are so distinguished in appearance as TO
carry the PAIN from much more pretentious
cloakS.
The basket-cloths are made plain in dark
cloth shades, and also with very small checks
In color. They are very substantial forty six
inches wide, and In all the warmth OF pure wool
only one dollar per yard. They are excellent
materials from which TO make serviceable suits
for either ladies or children, and at this price
few need lack one.
NEW FOREIGN FABRICS.
The materials which come from abroad. and
OF which, indeed only samples are as yet to be
seen, are distinguished by their fneneSS soft
LESS and cloSeneSS OF texture, and the minute
ness OF the designs, which are In solid colors OF
dlnerent shades OF saphir, bronze Bordeaux,
genoafme blue and sage green. The new color
Is "canaque" or Zulu, a dull copper color sup
| posed TO be the tint OF the Zulu skim Ii is an
| ugly color, and exceedingly unbecoming, so
tbat few Anne rican ladies VIII be likely to at
| tempt wearing 1t. Nevertheless, IL is accepted
abroad, and must have a good show here and
| those who are heroic enough TO sacrifice beauty
| On the altar OF new sensational fashion viii
! here have an opportunity. The combination
fabrics are In silk or silk and WOOL In rich cash
! mele colorS and designs. The cashmere pat
terms are so soon exhausted that but little
| variety is afforded, as the manufacturers have
| reSor.ed TO the blending OF cashmere colors In
pretty leaf and floral patterns, which form mar
| row striped designs These mixed and brocaded
| faDr1cS show two entirely distinct and separate
schools, so TO speak, one exhibiting the brilliant
| contrasts and effects OF the Pompadour era the
| other the rich blending OF the duller colors OF
| Louis XN's reign.
The delicate coteline, VIII Oh has been fashion.
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