The New York herald., 1879-07-06
PARIS FASHIONS.
The Art Of Fascinating by
Means Of Dress.
ENSLAyING IN THREE SITTINGS,
How a Partisan Belle Effected
a Conquest.
THE szEGEDIN FETE DRESSES

PARIS, June zz Ios9.
An old gentleman of the retrograde school. and.
nevertheless intimate friend of the recently de-
ceased Prince Of Orange. not long ago sitting out
before Bignons. and while observing the passersby
ventilated his ill humor. The Prince pleasantly
asked him to mp the total OF his grievances in
final grumbe. "Well. then" answered the vener
able lounger, II hate all the hurry introduced into
modern life; there is reading it is all skmming;
no dining. it is all eating; travelling. it is all
arriving" Very deep. very wise and true this COM
plant; but it is not comprehensive; for one might
with equal pthiness add-there is courting, 1t is
all killing; there is loving it is ali marrying
Men killed by destinations and marry after short
course of Pompadour pekin. torchon-edged plisses.
Bretonne friliing. Adrianople sunshades and point
d'esprit ruting. It is generally done in the same
number of parts u sonata. There is the introduce
ton the andante the allegro the and the fndie
skipping tho other divisions peculiar to old
masters. lady is cited in Paris who ensaved no.
bleman in three sitngs. The first was at home in her
mothers own boudoir and under tho maternal eye.
the second was under y chestnut tree during the
final down pour at Longchamps races. and the third
out on terrace overlooking town full of beds
of the Marecha Mel species Not of the toilets
she wore extravagant. They were just the
styles quiet man Of taste likes. and the in
which they viewed were admirably adapted for
them.
HOW THE CONQUEST WAS MADE.
The morning or introduction dress was Pom
padour pekin lawn. vert d'eau ground, with mile
feurs stripes and plisses of vert deau lawn. having
lace edgings all the contours; the sleeves
short and mittens long; there were three tiers Of
festooned drapery each hip. each being pissed
round to figure paniers; vert d'eau sash
tied on la Taien. somewhat loose. did but reveal
the slender proportions of the waist; low shoes
which light undulating topknot under
invisible All the lingerie point desprit quill
ing The underskrt but just touched the ground.
The outdoor allurement glace silk polo
naise over downy Indian muslin skirt, friled all
over. The shade Of the poonaise shot pale
blue and the new mauve pink called "vine gather
ing" because not unlike the stains left by crushed
grapes. 1t was a polonaise made to figure the
famous "wings and tail" which fashion
BILE when Nine. Campan wrote her moral
tales, period that saw couples die
of broken hearts instead Of making an end Of their
misery by drowning suffocation over q charcoal
stove The hat was a straw verandah, projecting in
front under u cluster OF pink clover. vine leaves
Of muslin with gilt hores ana drooping white
neck. over this toilet was thrown when the
shower commenced, or rather more hercely con-
tinued for the incessant), duster called
devote which is an overall OF mixed colored material
like bourre that made with velvet collar and falls
II
the throat with bow like the material in shade.
FASCINATION THE THIRD.
The third, chateau toilet, was Wedgwocd
basque bodice with madras bordered trills worked
in silk or muslin with Persian design. The bodice
was open and the chemisette of the work the
borders corresponded with insertions of uting let
in about the underskirt. mantelet scarf thrown
the arm was of black cashmere and black satin
richly trimmed with cord braiding. in which Vene-
tian beads different shades introduced. the
ends OF the two fronts formed long three-cornered
int Ia beaustaSSels. A
hat a la folle. something between Rubens and
Hubbard hat was raised on one side with
toilet; the brim was lined with gathered blue
satin. have said that none OF the three dresses
above described extravagant, but elaborate
they must be styled. No man is charmed with
totally plain attire The very fashionable printed
and satin 1t is introduced in the same way bro
cades for facings and cut In Louis XIV. vests, anu
beautifully fitting casaquins. which accompany ecru
toilets. have seen fine painted cotton materials
made up with crepe de chine and so perfectly that
they initiate Asiatic tissues. and are trimmed with
Cleopatra fringe, rich crimped silk, marabout aud
moire Of the reds and purple.
SOMETHING ABOUT HATS.
Gentlemen who Fascinated by dress to
forward propose after the consideration Of
Directoire la iucarne is fully adopted. The term
Ia ittcarne with the inc,VydLes. The Direc
tore fair did not rush into ucarne hat at one leap
They began by putting down turned basket
their heads with the brm close to their ears Jour
present small sized Pamela). They then found the
having wider fronts Then the fronts were extended
only. leaving the basket part square for the head
which thus rendered invisible on the sides and
only visible in front. the brim performing the
Office OF long tunnel This occurs when persons
door neghbor cannot for the lite OF him get view
OF his nearest odgers profile aud the chapeau la
lucarne was happily defined in mt OF tantalization.
No one in America need be surprised ut the peony
sized roses now made for the decoration OF such
shapes these. bushel of mimosa lavender and
forget-me-not will about trim one. In my opinion
large hats have chance than since Gam
beta had the misfortune to set the fashion at Ver
sailles. 1t in the course of Paul dc Cassa.
gnacs strong Grafton in the Assembly. All
the Deputies had come of their seats and
ously. sngrily exchanging Trojan hre OF
such abuse that Gambetta, complying with regula-
tions. raised the meeting; but. IN compliance also
before he left the chair. He got up aud
looked round for hat. There only one within
to the chief usher. Caring little whose it was, and
such as 1t was. Gambetta took 1t from the person
who handed It, put IL and 10 1t fell right over his
nose. The Assembly extinguished!
We have had the sombrero In spanish circles and
IT. is in reality far more becoming than hat crowned
edifces or crooked gainsboroughs such as ladies'
from the opposite side of the Channel actually travel
in. The idea Of being seasick in u Reynolds shape
But love OF tue picturesque Is ever al insular fac-
ulty and unfortunately akin to the grostcsque. The
Princess de Bourbon wears black sombrero with
large pearls round the border and curling the
crown long plume. This. with toilet of velvet and
fae pekin tgray and black, white Breton lace
frs and a point d esprit fchu, is u most elegant
halt mourning costume. The Princess was thus at
tired at matinee given for the benefit OF the inun
dated by the Spanish colony here
DRESSES szEGEDIN FETE
| Parisians are going through mud ankle deep
wherever anything is being done for the sufferers OF
Szegedn. 1t is probable that public charity never
was 80 peasurably solicited for good u cause
attended with such golden harvest ~ at the .tee
given for them ut the Opera. The illustrated pc
riodicals have reproduced the gay scene during the
tee, especially tho stage transformed into Aermese
The subject ~ now quite stale III Paris and equally
''donc" In New York; but, when all the broth
erhood have had their fine points are left tor tho
fashion chrOnicer. There is that Venice point,
instance. worn by q. Moisset charming actress who
held bouqueteres stall. 1t arranged as scarf
over blue gauzc of which the tablier was literally
covered with deep inarabout fringe, in which hung
long sprays OF crystal beads. But the way the scarf
tied up behind is indesc cribaLeso orig maj that
titled lady walked straight up to the pretty
and with the pcrtness OF lazy of title asked who
had invented that toilet .'Mysef,'' replied Mllo
you copy of the design IL you will pay down an
off fo he .tad Wi he pef