The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-11-15
THE DAILY STAR
STYLES FOR WINTER.
Dresses, Wraps and Millinery In
telligently Discussed.
Some Valuable Suggestions for Ladies
Who Would Dress Well and
.tn. Fashi0nably.
DRESSES.

are made with trains, which are often OF
adifferent material from the front of the
skirt.
A very handsome imported dress has q
skirt of black satin, trimmed across the
bottom with two rows of satin plisse
Two long breadths, shirred lengthwise
open in curtain fashion over the skirt
They are edged with narrow jet fringe
which falls in jabot form. A princesse
court train, with pointed basque fronts,
opens over the skirt and is of black bro
caded satin. The train is very little
trimmed, a single narrow plisse being the
only ornamentation. Court trains, made
either in princesse style or with sepa-
rate basque, are popular for long dresses.
The train should always be of very rich
material, very little trimmed. -
81 A novel trimming to be put above a
plisse initiates braid of three strands.
1t is formed of pieces of brocade faced
with satin of contrasting color. The
tablier of a handsome black toilette is of
black satin, covered with black passe-
menterie, thickly beaded with jet. The
plain skirts of velvet, satin, or other ma
terial, are not as popular as heretofore,
except with very young girls There is a
tendency to return to the fashion of hay
ing the skirts of dress alike, and the
waist of different material.
Shirring enters very largely into the
composition Of winter toilettes. Not
trimming alone is shirred, but different
parts of the dress itself. For slender
figures the shirred bodice is very becom-
ing. 1t is shirred on the shoulders and
at the waist, aud sometimes extends in Il
long point down the front, upon which
the pannier drapery is secured.
There is not the rapid change to bout
FAINT drapery that was expected. The
slim styles of last year are not popular
but for once fashion seems to have taken
medium stand. Panniers are much
worn, but are draped in plaits Or careless
folds quite fatty across the hips, and arc
usually of a soft material. There are
very few simple cloth costumes prepared
for shopping and travelling for young la
dies finished with masculine severity.
The overskirt of polonaise has several
rows of machine stitching, and is draped
high on each hip by means of plaits
The underskirt is sometimes left plain,
but is prettier when trimmed with kilt
ing, or when the seams are slashed and a
fan of plating is introduced.
WRAPS.
Now that cashmere colors and Persian
effects are SO fashionable, camel's-hair
shawls are being worn more than ever.
For those who require greater warmth
are the long garments, half dolman, half
circular, of rich Sicillienne lined with
squirrel and trimmed with wide borders
Of handsome fur. The Sicilliennc, manu-
factured for cloaks is over sixty inches
wide, to enable the cloak to be cut to
better advantage. The newest importa-
tiens have a l.eavy cord, and are called
drap de Grevy and drap AIessine. Wool
Sicilienne is very much used for less ex-
pensive wraps. A novelty which has just
made its Appearances colored sicilienne
1t is now shown in drab and dauphin-
gray for cloaks. Rich, fur-lined circu-
lars have not decreased in popularity,
but that style of wrap is not intimated
in cheaper fabrics. .
The most stylish wraps for middle
aged and old ladies are either the fur
lined circulars or the very large Sieilenne
cloaks, which reach nearly to the bottom
of the dress and have loose do4man
sleeves. They are lined with furand are
trimmed with unplucked OTTER chinchil-
la, or otherhandsomef fur. Sealskin still
retains its popularity, and has increased
greatly in price since last year Seal
skin jackets are in demand, and mantles
and dolmans are also worn. Long seal
cloaks with dolman sleeves are popular.
All dressy wraps are in the dolman shape,
and are generally of either silk or wool
Sicilienne. They are trimmed with a
profusion of fringe passementerie and jet.
In shape they do not differ very essen
TALLY from those of last year, but are al
ways the same length all around. The
sleeves are not cut in one with the rest Of
the garment, but are put on with long
seams extending up the back.
The basque, or habit cloak, is youth.
full and stylish, and is of medium length,
made with long vest of satin de Lyon
or satin rayee. 1t fits the figure closely
being adjusted in front by two darts
The back is without the long seams tt
the shoulder, and fits accurately. Full
ness is given to the skirt by two position
plaits in the back. This is a very dressy
model, and should be made of handsome
material, such as Sicilienne, with the
vest, cuffs and pockets of another fabric
No trimming is used, the edge being fin
ished like a gentleman's coat. The yes
and pockets may be trimmed with passe
menterie and lace. For walking ant
shopping, the cloth jackets, in brown
gray or black cloth with no trimming
but handsome buttons and machin
stitching, are very much worn. A fev
black sacques are seen, but are no
among the stylish modes. They are o
medium length, of wool cloth heavil
repped in imitation of Sicilienne, an
thick enough to require no lining.
TRIMMINGS.
Most of the independent trimmings ar
xaa,Iondaof xyifh iot pinol- fyinuo,