The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1879-10-22
CHEESE.
Where 1t Came From, Where 1t IL Eaten
and How it Is Made.

II AO" ~ - hXoNSs
Many there are who have heard and
read of it; numbers have smelled OF and
shifted at it, and have worn they would
have no closer acquaintance; but they
have returned to the charge, and from
smelling have proceeded to taste, and,
as in acquiring the taste for tobacco,
opium and other disagreeable things,
have contracted a fondness for the ar
ticle, and soon declare that it is the best
cheese made. Others, and especially
Germans and Hollanders, need not ac-
quire the taste; a fondness for it seems
to be a part Of their makeup.
While the taste of this cheese when
young is rich and creamy, and the flavor
not particularly strong, its powerful
odor when fully ripened has been likened
to everything offensive, and the cheese,
with its consumers, have by some be-
come the theme of reviling and ridicule.
AS its name indicates, Limburger had
it's origin in the province ofLimburg, in
Holland, where, with its popularity OF
shape, smell. process of making and cur
ing, it was formerly exclusively made.
Thirty years ago its production in the
United States was almost unknown, it
being at that time thought, on account
of the difference in climate and pastur-
age, impossible to produce There. The
same notion in regard to Swiss cheese
prevailed. and consequently enormous
quantities Of both were imported from
Europe to supply the large demand in
this country. But it was found that
both can and have been produced in this
country in such perfection that the very
best Judges are unable to detect any diff
ference from the imported article.
Thousands of tons of Lim5urger are
now produced every season. mostly in
the States of New York and Wisconsin,
at a cost of less than halfofthe imported
article. 1t finds its market and is con-
sumed mostly in those cities containing
a large proportion of Germans-Chicago
Milwaukee, St. Louis and New York.
1t is more profitable to the farmer and
maker than any other kind of cheese;
first, because from q given quantity OF
milk more weight is obtained, owing to
the mode OF making and curing, and also
becausethe price it brings is usually from
ten to forty per cent. higher than that
obtained for the standard American
cheese. In neighhorhoods where its
manufacture has been commenced it
usually spreads to the exclusion of o:her
kinds.
The cheese is made in factories capa-
BILE of working the milk from 100 to 400
cows, rarely exceeding the latter num-
Der, rs more would require a larger area
of country than would be desirable on
account of distance to the factory, rs the
milk is hauled and cheese made twice a
day usually. The makers generally buy
the milk from the farmer at a price
agreed upon for the season OF six months,
beginning about May /. The process of
manufacture in its first stages does not
differ from the usual way, except that y
lower temperature is Kept while the curd
is forming, the animal heat alone in
summer being often high enough. Great
care is taken TO use pure milk, free from
faint or filth, and cleanliness is requisite
in every stage of the making. Upon the
curd being formed it is slowly and care
fully cut into squares, pieces the size OF
dice, low temperature and careful hand
ling being necessary to avoid breaking
the butter gIobu,es, upon which the
richness ofcheese depends. 1t is slightly
scalded and stirred, most of the whey
drawn off, and, without being sailed,
the curd is dipped out into perforated
wooden boxes or molds about five inches
square, and left to drain without any
pressure being applied. In a few hours
the packages are carried into the curing
cellar and placed edgeways on shelves,
like bricks set to dry. Every day
thereafter they are rolled in salt. and
replaced when they have absorbed
enough salt. They are turned almost
every day, and the Shiny moisture which
exudes is rubbed with the hand evenly
over the surface, which serves the double
purpose of keeping the cheese moist and
to close all cracks into which lilies
might lay their eggs. This outside
moisture dccomposes while the cheese
ripens, and, being mostly composed of
albumen, like fresh meats. eggs, etc., the
same results follow the decomposition,
and in this case the Limburger odor is
developed, which never forsakes it, and
sticks closer than a brother to all who
touch or cat it. After eight to ten weeks
it is packed in paper and tinfoil, and is
ready for market-in consistence, con-
tents and nourishment the richest
cheese that can be made, but to the I'm.
initiated a malicious..and predetermined
outrage upon the organs OF SMELL
CHICAGO Inter- Ocean.