Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1879-06-06
FOR THE FAIR sRx.
Fashion Chapses Of the Future.

Slowly, yet by perceptible steps, the
modes OF the feminine tOiletteRTV chang
ing, and the changes already made are
but prophecies of what will appear in
the near future. The days of the sheath
like skirts may be numbered, and more
bouffant and voluminous draperies are
being introduced in the costumes for
early autumn, which are a mere hint of
what the autumn will bring. Puffs and
paniers are seen on almost everything,
and not only is the back draped but the
sides are pulled, and in some of the late
lmportatiOns of summer toilettes the
side paniers are very marked, being ar
ranged in puff wide at the top, grow
ing narrower as it descends the skirt and
banded across the wide embroideries.
giving them very much the appearance
of the basket paniers, from which pre-
sumably they were named at first. There
is, in trained dresses more especially. n
tendency to a more decided fullness of
the skirt ut the top. A dress now in the
process of manufacture at one of the
leading Arivate establishments In the
city has the entire width of the train
gathered at the waist, underneath the
coquettish basque, and hanging in one
unbroken line to the end. The effect is
very elegant, especially as the material
from which it is made Is of heavy bro
ccade, which would be spoiled by bunch
ing up and otherwise perverting it from
its proper purpose. The petticoat is of
plain silk, and the buttons which are
used to fasten the train to are most pc
culiar, being made of silk cord in two
shades with the center tasseled.
New materials show the increasing
tendency toward bright colors, and the
very newest and most novel of all Is the
old-fashioned changeable silk in a SUI
perior grade, with polka-dotted silk in
two cOlors to make a combination with
it. As yet, there is not q yard of this
silk in the country, but some patterns
have been sent to private establish
ment by the commissionaire in Paris.
which arrived only two or three DAYS
ago. One of these is changeable green
and gold, having golden sheen through
which the green shines, making the
most perfect effect; the silk which ac-
companies it, and which is to be used in
combination as trimming, has over
shot gold colored satin dots on a green
ground. Another very lovely one has
fawn colored and gold com ined in the
same way. In everything there is the
increased color; very few black dresses
are worn out of mourning except silk
and grenadine, and they are lighted up
by embroideries in satin or gauze or by
bows of color. A grenadine dress now
IN process of making has satin petit
coat trimmed with panels of satin, en-
broidered in Marshal Nye and Jacoue-
minot roses in the natural colors; the
overdress of plain grenadine is looped
Jauntily over the petticoat by bows of
satin ribbon, and is edged with a che
mile fringe bounded by silk of the colors
in the embroidering. A vest in the same
design, but in much smaller pattern, is
inserted into the corsage. The effect is
most gorgeous.
Many of the imported embroidered
bands have a most decided Persian
effect. This appears not only in the
coloring but in the figures used. One
might think from their gayety that thew
would only be used on house dresses (:
but that is by no means the case. They
adorn street costumes as we'll A mas
tic camel's hair cloth recently finished,
and to be worn at Nahant this summer.
had bands of this Persian embroidery
against black velvet. The effect was
very lovely. Comparatively few of
these dresses will be worn in town; thew
are Tor the country or seashore, where
gay clothes are quite in place. Prob
ably, if the rage for them keeps, they
will appear in town in the autumn, but
we can make no certain prophecy of
that. Boston women are quiet in their
tastes and don't like to faunt bright
colors on the street, and they never 20
the lengths to which New York women
go; SO whatever one may see on Fifth
and Madison avenues, he will not see
the same on Beacon street.
The putting together Of the petticoat
and train and the skirt and draperies of
the short dress is only step toward the
one plain skirt; at least, that is the way
the French modistes interpret it. 1t is
not likely that we will return all at once
to severe simplicity, if, indeed, that point
is ever wholly reached; but the better
class OF women are really demanding less
trimming and fuss. Plainness to a GER
tain extent is extremely desirable, and
the average dressmaker should be made
to restrain her eXuberance in the matter
OF ornamentation. When they learn
that elegance doesn't mean ruffies and
putfs and fri Is and flounces. thew will
have gone far in the direction of the
artistic in dress, and they have more
hope in time to reach it. In the mean
time, may the modiste who understands
the meaning of discretion and taste con
tlnue to give lessons to the rest.-Bostoa
Advertiser.