The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1879-09-10
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Wooden Dresses for Fall.

Dark cloth colors in the new shades
of amaranth, Rembrandt green, prune,
Burgoyne, golden brown and ducks
breast blues are shown in the new
wooden dresses being prepared in the
furnishing houses for early fall wear.
The materials are camel'S-halr, cloth,
cashmere and a new fabric called toate
dc Sanglaer, which is regularly woven,
vet has Il rough surface, and resembles
bunting made sufficiently heavy to serve
for warm winter dresses. The trim
mings are satin of the same shade, SILK
plush borders, many rows OF machine
stitching, wide wooden bralds, n gay
contrasting silks in Scotch .plalds or IN
most intricate mosaic designs. Inc
shirring so popular during the summer
will not be given up, and there Will
be the usual variety in plaitings. from
the fine knife plating, like crimplng, to
the broadcast killing and box plalts.
The coat basque and plated round
skirt will be one OF the stylish designs
for wooden dresses. The basque is short
and even all around, or else it curves
shorter on the hips. 1t may have a vest
or a square guimpe, like q plastron,
made of the material used for trimming,
or else it may have the plastron vest,
which is pointed below the waist and
really consists Of two revers seWed
together down the middle. extending
from the neck down and curving nar.
rover at the waist line. This may be OF
plain cloth or of satin, or else it may be
almost covered with parallel lines of
zigzag braid placed crosswise in points.
The back has very fiat position plaits in
the middle seam, which may either be
of the wool goods or its trimmings. OF
else it NAV have Il bias revers set in each
seam of the side forms. Other basques
are slightly double breasted, requiring
only two or three buttons for the
doubled part. which discloses the vest
set in beneath. The surplice trimming
gives the figure such roundness that 1t
will continue in favor; also the wide
belt beginning in tile seams under II
arms and fastening in front.
Blouse effects will also be popular, and
these are now used to retain the pretty
shirring, and also to combine it with 4
vest and plaitings. For instance, one of
the newest suggestions shown is u Rem
brandt green cashmere with Scotch plaid
satin trimmings which has q blouse
BASQUE made in this way. The gay plaid
satin is laid on the basque lining straight
down each side of the front, each side
two and u half inches broad, OF at least
extending to the fist dart. The wool
material is cut the shape of the lining,
and its front edges are shirred crosswise
in two clusters-one aethc waist line and
the other at the top afthe dart-and are
drawn back to the edge of the plaid
satin vest. The tullness below the waist
line is pressed in flat plaits, and the
lower edges are simply piped. Tiny
shaded buttons fasten the vest. The
plaid is again introduced below the waist
line in position plaitings, in the stand
ing bias collar, and in the cuffs. Few
outside pockets are seen, but occasionally
thew are made quite effective rs trim
mings by being cut in a long square
cornered shape, and placed on the edge
of the basque. where they hang like p
bag. Small fancy plaids of wool and
silk combined are also used for trimming
plain and wool dresses. Those with
much red and gold on olive grounds trim
effectively. Gendarme blue wool is
trimmed with bars of pale blue. olive,
and old gold on dark blue ground. The
newest and warmest-looking trimming
is silk plush of the same shade as the
dress, used for panels, borders, and
for stripes down the front OF the skirt
between box plaits.
The plated skirts show every variety
worn during the summer, but there are
two STYLES most often repeated, viz,
that for tall figures has three side-plaited
flounces covering the front breadths
horizontally, while that liked by shorter
ladies has the religicuse plating extend
ing straight from belt to foot down the
front and sides. Few skirts are plated
all around in kilt fashion, yet very few
are seen without being plated some
where. The fashion Of the deep square
Roman apron covering the front and
sides, while the back is covered by two,
three and four plaitings, will remain in
favor.
For plaitings to border skirts, clusters
will be greatly used. When contrasting
materials form the trimming. clusters Of
plaits of the gay trimming will alternate
with others of the plain material chosen
for the dress. Box plaits will also be
fashionable for borders, and these will
be wide OF narrow, according to fancy.
The tabs and rcvers of satin like the
trimming so popular last winter arc
repeated on new French costumes
Hnrper'S Bagar. 4.
Unhappy Marriages
The truth is that these too frequent