The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-03-23
SPRING BONNE7S.
Radical Changes in the Head
Dresses Of the Fair.
BRIGHT TINTS AND SUNSET SHADES.
Pretty Faces Framed in Masses of
Brilliant Flowers.
When daisies pied. and violets blue,
And cuckoo buds of yellow hue

OF shapes for the is said to be the result
of the mixed nationalities which have imposed
their influence upon Paris fashions during the
last year; but be that it may the materials
of which hats and all head coverings are
to be manufactured will include the same
which introduced nearly a hundred years ago.
Many of the shapes are larger than last season;
repetitons of the cottage STYLE but others
have Aaring brims rising the forehead. with
sides fat to the head. Elegant importations
are of soft chip Tuscan. with rather large crowns
Of medium height and wide brims of equal dimcn-
sions all around. The brims are bent by the mil
liner in any way that may becoming and desir-
sble and in consequence there is variety Of coquet
fish 'jauntiness which is extremely pleasing. So
the fashionable aud fair can be in style this
spring. and at the time wear hat that you can
see without the aid of magnfying glass. The
latest and most effective shape for street and carriage
wear is the "cappobia." The crown is very broad
and fat the top. while the front flares very
high heavenward. This Is filed in with flowers.
Then, again, the brm is lined with shirred silk or
with velvet of dark color, which affords effective
contrast with the outside trimming. and flowers are
placed in heavy masses upon the outside. where
sometimes many as ten large roses are disposed
in continuous row without admixture Of any
foliage.
Rich ostrich plumes also sweep over these wide
and fancifully caught brims, and in white or pale
shades of yellow delicately refined Young
ladies wear brims falling low the forehead but
rising high at the back where they filled in with
heavy sprays Of flowers and ostrich feathers.
The straw bonnets not pronounced. but yet
In general have the brim faring the forehead.
with sides coming close. Here may be observed
many new mixtures Of color, for not few dyed
in alterations of red. yellow, blue and brown.
1opr for. ctt in 11oclr
brown olive. ecru and blue in both the deep marine
and the pronounced sapphire, which is at
present fashionable Beige ana ecru shades pervade
nearly all styles OF new hats and bonnets. and per-
maps 1t Is uue to the prominence accorded yellow
brought forward.
THE cAMAnGo BONNET.
The pretty little cap shape camargo has no brm
except coronet, which falls closely back over the
bonnet, without affecting the shape. Beaded straws
idea Of the day, and with view to being
placed on bonnets beads are brought out in black
and all the fashionable colors which fnd representa-
ton in straw or chip. They are quite small and are
sewn on in rows to correspond with the manner OF
sewing the straw or braid.
bonnet of fine black chip is beaded with small
ecru beads. The crown is high and conical, and the
front slightly faring is filled in with crepe sse
plating. Upon the front of the crown is placed an
encircles the crown and forms q large bow at tho
back. handsome buckle set with Rhine crystals.
Is the right SIDE black ia lace strings
white chip hat. in the Rubens STYLE has mod
eratcy faring brim and low crown. 1t is faced
back the head. little the left side. Two white
ostrich tips fall the br toward the right side.
aud the back is trimmed with Lahore daInasse, on
which garnet and gold are intermixed.
THE "REPUBLIQUE' BONNET.
The very latest Paris production Ia the ''Repub-
lique.' In shape it resembles the Phrygian cap Of
the first republic, and the arrangement OF the silk
trimming Stimulates the peculiar folds of the liberty
cap which it resembles. The upper portion falls
over in the manner, and to make is only to
initiate the headdrcss OF the Goddess Of Liberty on
the old American dollar. The effect OF this bonnet
for it cannot be called hats very good. 1t is be-
coming to the oval face especially. and suited to
blondes as well as brunettes The decided tendency
bans and general style of hat and bonnet trimmings.
and is the natural effect of the present state OF the
French politics upon fashion.
The pretty silk turbans lately introduced will
tnue to be throughout the spring.
style of these headdresses closely initiates the
phrygisn cap, and they are shown in all colors.
Some OF the prettest are in striped white and blue
and the spotted strawberry color ana white. called
enamelled strawberry flower. Few styles have taken
80 quickly. Abroad. however they are not worn so
at the back of the head as our fashonables set
.hem
The new style Of "Pinafore hat for little girls is
very jaunty and Is formed in blue straw shaded
With old gold, by some artistic device known only
to the modistes or inventors.
RIBBONS GARNIrURE.
In ribbons and materials for trimu ming the va
riety is very great Elegant bonnets are trimmed
with plain satin satin and gros grain ribbon and
dainty laces put on light airy flowers. silks and
ribbons showing the Pekin stripes. flowers jd,ii
mere patterns small checks and bold plaids.
rs we as 0 Bresenno lace, whish prominently
brought forward. Striped ribbons are in every
quality and design, from those Of medium texture.
unprctentiously wrought. up to Others which unite
the greatest skill in combination OF shades with
The richest and most expensive material. In
fancy brocadcd ribbons ono might as well attempt
10 note all the flowers of the field to cnumerate
the endless display of designs and colors. The
richest have gilt threads interviewer throughout,
and the flowers are embossed ON heavy satin sur
faces. Ofentimes. however the colors are subdued,
showing intermixtures Of such shades Ssmes blue,
grayish tints silver grays and cream or light crm
tnts. Rose colorcd and white reversible ribbons,
blue and straw color lilac and French gray yellow.
white aud flesh pink, all of these still seen
In hat ornaments there found great changes
this spring. On the hats and bonnets without
flowers there are braids Of either gold or silver,
broader and of q finer kind than those used for tho
purpose last year. Golden buttercups, silver
straw, gold centred white silk peoples. butterflies
OF mother of pearl beetles with vAregatcd backs and
crystal lizards will be worn as ornaments light
coiffurcs. A new moir ribbon called "mother.of-
pearl ribbon. resembles that substance in its hucs,
Its surface being satiny.
NEW SILKS MILLINERY.
In these goods Persian and Indian ideas are con-
stantly prevalent, and the names bestowed in
keeping Lahore damasse L. one OF these. Othcrs
are Afghan melangc Pcrsani jardinierc and Ycddo
meangc, the last displaying Chinese designs com
bined with narrow stripes. Checked silks. In quiet
tones of gray. aro called serge quadrllee and these
not unlike the foulard silks used for costumes.
A large variety may be seen in class of opcnwork
fabrics called guipures. and the combinations of
colors are almost endless. Without exception how,
Is stylishy united with black, cardinal. blue or old
gold. Pompadour norc Is handsome fabric. show
ing bright lowered stripes. alternating with open
work in black. Camargo silk Ii in ecru. Gauzes OF
various colors and patterns are much used In mi-
merry. and here ON frall foundation may be
Pckin stripes of velvet well also heavy velvet
checks
Peculiar silks and ribbons show the partially faded
madras coors. aud these are In large plaids or
stripes. Gay Roman stripes are new feature aud
will divide favor with scotch and other decided
plads, all OF which, however, are not bright. for
some are In grave tones of gray or brown.
ARTIFICIAL FIOwEus.
The new canaque-cannibal color--is found In
flowers, and one or the most distinguished sprays OF
the season Is n succession OF open chrysanthemums
shaded from light to dark in peculiar copper
tints. Another spray In ia sapphire blue.
Charming leaves appropriate to cpripg are
made OF Grape, and. as may DO
imagined. are very thin and delicateiy wrought.
Roses and chrysanthenuns in very great iavor.
and often tiincs are placed In heavy rows one after
another without u mixture of foliage. Pale yellow