The New York herald., 1879-03-17
PARIS FASHIONS.
Coming Styles, Popular Shades and
Clever Devices
GREEK ONLY IN NAME.
Borrowing Ideas Of Decoration
from the East.
RAGE FOR BRETON LAPPETS.
Bonnets, Hats, Head and Hair Gear and
Other Novelties.
GREEK ONLY IN NAME.
RAGE FOR BRETON LAPPETS.

PARIS, March i, 1879.
While the public mind in France is supposed to be
in state of il-dehned uneasiness the fashions for
March enjoy enviaAle equanimity. They. at least.
are high and dry in the world settled on paniers-
The pretty flesh and blood lay figures that walk
about NJ. Worths showrooms are to be viewed within
a fortnight In their new spring attire Not until
these young ladies' typify each different style are
the fashions ''set" These carefully selected beau
ties. though all slender scale of statuary from
ffty to ffty-three centimetres round the waisG.
are in expectation Of moderate paniers On the
day I looked in to ascertain this fact /
met very arstocratic bride who already, was wear
ing o1tye underfabric There among these
inf ated contrivances three distinct shapes-the
Niron. the Ninetteo and the Mousquetaire. The
panier proper is only. after all, tournure put on
over the hips. as baskets are hung over donkeys;
but panier may also be worn below the waist. be-
hind.s while the bodice is longwasted princesse.
that ends with looped up festooned basques. The
worst OF panier is its accompanying escort of pufs.
frnges ribbons gathers and frills with twists and
torsades to correspond. round tho bottom Of
tho skirt All these accessories require care in
order to preserve them from crushing and
from sword and spur influences in ball
room. body OF ladies full of good
Intentions, but devoid of large means ara as matter
Of course opposed+o the system. They are Issuing
circulars tho absurdity Of submitting to tho
caprices Of fashion and pointing out what loss Of
time and temper paniers will prove. Several are ad-
vocating the adopaion of an Interchangeable cut that
might bo executed in the costlest materials. en-
broidered. inserted otherwise beautihed with pre-
cious stones, male of the least expensive stufs
according to the rank and station of wearers. They
appealing for the Greek "chiton .pronounce the
ch like a k. and sound the long in the word
fown). A fund acknowledgements tho appeal
Thus learn that the chiffon; Is the oldest naine
given to garment; that Adam and Eve.
in the Greek Bible, said to have
worn chitons; that JoscpEs coat was q
chiffon. as we'll as Tamar's robe and Agamemnon's
best suit of clothes. andtha everything that was
coat, skin or peel went by the same designation.
While female schoiastics thus erudite will only
remark that.a style that would peel of when worn
out, and thus require no mending. would save much
more time than any other for expounding the Greek
Bible and setting forth theories. do. however. be-
ieve In tho blessings of uniform drapery for women
but especially for,menl and in the East exclusively,
for what sort OF o bonnet would look well with a
chitona cannot pictureathe Greek styles q
rainy day. nor how they would hook running
aftor an omnibus. and VIXEN Macadam lies deep.
worry intellectual woman isns liable to get soaked
through q wcak-minded woarer Of peatrs and pill
low-stuifed sleeves. A tuckehup chiffon. veil and
umbrella are not the classical ideal. Meanwhile,
manufacturers are sending in checks in neutral
tints. plain grays and quantities OF blue.
IDEAS THE EAST.
The usuafseries.of mastic. almond. drab and beige
are forthcoming ip Indian cashmere. Themixturs Of
blue satin with blue French morino win be feature
and the union Of these two does not discard sang
dc-bGus plhsa.for trimming. short. loose Jacket
for indoor wear is made like s-aaribaldian blouse
or needledarned lace The usa,al material Is twiled
opal blue silk. and the seevos loosely gathered
in three places-one row round the arm hole. the
other aSovethe elbow and the third below the cuff
midway betwecn tho elbow and wrist; frll OF lace
Is sewod these gathers. and it is difcu ult to i'm
ayinc anything moro old-fashioned looking by way
of novelty. Another object-of the kind Is deep
aouncc OF lace round loose creme dainasse Jacket.
The ounce is placed plain all round. but runs up
layers. ono folded over the other under tho chin.
All this lnce vhethor old point Raguse, Is beconi-
OF mock gravity observed likewise on the features
young baTristers and parsons.
MAskKIs.
BY tho way. there have already been given q few
masquerade balls, and students gown with hood
Of black evening dross has been worn. with
academic cap aud lace cravst This is called the
graduate costume and is said to have been sug-
gestcd by Tcnnysons Princess. Ben Hordts 81
otro but Partisan, ladies intensely igno-
rant of poets having Saxon origin that am OF
opinion their mirror only inspired them while they
luckily fell on fne old hounce which had been
boarded because It was pity to cut It, being part
OF some gala attire worn years ago by spprecia-
tive lncosross II Is difficult TO speak well OF the
newest dominos worn at fancy and mask balls.
They set closely natural siin being fitted IN
thc back by central seam, and las will rein1tn tho
cut for sprir,gI the back forms OF tho body part
start irom the shoulder. instead OF the armholes
bcug deeply hyiloscd medieval point reaching
to tic waist is usraly added for the purpose of
concealing not tho fgurc but tho wearers usual at
n
dresses Will be taken Oh when disguise s no longer
sought They are made OF rich Iokin inoire or plain
pekfn satine and brocade. Some eoquila with
laic. The closcliting are usually retained the
whole evening" looscr make is the Vatican and
picturesque last century shape. Sorvia aud
kouincia becoming pre-cinincnt for what
parisians cali industrial creations. Scrvian
peasant and Roumean girl are good characters Tor
masquerade. but famed maison dc hlas.c has dono
better than copy costumes from thcso interesting
spois. Their last product exhibited 10 amateurs
only is y Koumelan set OF table lirncn ami towels.
napkins, &c. II ~ work doue by hand. inserted iii
u satecn kind of oatmeal cloth and lnstratcd with
Persian designs in brilliant noss ailks which figure
oncralds. rubics and sapphires. Ns
DilArEi,ils.
The Rcutelian embrodefess still aihcres To carly
Indian lie and to the lclsan sontionay drawn
nowcr and bird but all Dur point Lace and all
Renaissance work disappear before tho above minute
and elaborate performances on ifncn-drawn nbrc.
while the colorcd fancics these arc original and
gorgeous. The open work foundation, ~ IN all
neole-madc designs is uneven In point cf mesh for
nation. cut therein lies the difference bc,wcen ma
chine embroidery aud genuine work. Ly.tything Ia
embroidered for the coming season. and among other
admirable specimens o'lJrcd lawns in tins soitest
tints strcwn with white hoss sprays. They sent
up for narrow fourrcau skirts that will be worn
under panicr-tuuiquos; also greatly en,ied tho
forthcoming chenillcs IN faded unts on satin. Tho
latter truly artistic. They hpndlworkcd,
showing graduated sizcs OF horal decorations the
design widcns up the Bodice and decreasing a. ~
again fiou the waist down to tho bottom ol the
robe where roses, firstly miniature buds only, cx-
paud into posies that tumble In rollic and profson
over the insiep. a pale moonlight satin marked ia
this way With mousse chenillcs Is soft and
furry In the cxtfomc. while tho gloss
OF tho foundation lends simmer TO tho
ensemble Eut such fancics these have
already been sketcned in rougher line. Totally
novel the spring lotus blue crcpon, the pcrsan
silks and biotchcd Japanese tssuea al these fore
tolla perfect saturnalia of glare. the moro all
the gorgeous sheen is being trimmed with black
velvet, and those iridcsccnt gold unanels pearl
and other Orienta buttons. II Is supposed the
eesantss will adopt color and keep TO it. varying
their attire and their materials, cnliyening 1t or
otherwise SOLDERING 1t down according TO the irpOr-
tance OF inignihcancc OF the event they diess for