The Portland daily press., 1879-01-16
New York Fashions.
[HaTper's Bazar.1

as popular as ever; but there are also diaphan-
GUS gauZes, grenadines, and the sheerest mus
lin. The genuine India muslin, such as writ
ers of fiction array their heroine5 in, is worn
again. This is soft sheer muslin with uneven
threads, like lineo, so fine and thin that the
lustre of satin is not dimmed when covered
with 1t. To prove that it is the poetic drapery
of the far East the modiste shows the brand of
the India firm wrought on one end of the goods
IN eilded hierogyphici beside great bands of
gorgeous red. 1t comes 10 double width, and
is literally doubled over without being folded
ia a crease in the middle,ss less ethereal fabrics
are, and costs sc a yard The pure white is
showp, aud also deep cream-cclor; the latter
must be used with cream-oolored satin. Six
muslin rivals the India muslin in favor, and is
IN direct contrast to it, as it is as glossy as if
made OF silk, aud has firm body. 1t is espec-
ally liked as support for great deal Of lace.
Thus it is used for over-dresses, above either
silk or sstiD, that are richly trimmed with VAL
epciennss, Breton, or duebesse lace.
The new white games are in great variety.
One of the most ff4ctive patterns has bars of
loops like plush, forming diamonds. Others
have stripes Of satin less than an inch broad, or
else moire; 10th raoire and satin are required
to trim the later. The soft white bareges grow
In favor, aud are inexpensive. They are par
ticuIarly Effective when two colors are used in
combination with them, such as old gold with
garnet, or else pale blue with moss green. The
two coors are introduced in flowers or 10 fac
ings of velvet, satin rosettes, or in kilt-plestsd
Houuces which are alternately of white with old
gold, then white again followed by dark red.
The foe Lyons tulls is the traditional fabric
for ball dresses 1t is made up in most elsbore
ate designs over satin, as it Is not eHectiv-
w6eo used scansly, and has many flowing rib
bons and rosettes of white satin for trimming.
White organdy musllu When used this winter
has pleatiHgs of Breton lace for trimming.
SHORT DANCING DRESSES.
Shortdresss for dancing are being worn 10
Paris, and few have been made here. These
have paoier over-dressea, and herald prob ,bly
the prevailing fashion of a future season. These
short dresses are confined to very young ladies',
ana are usually the white dresses so suitable
for debutAntes. The skirt is quite short in
n font and oa tas 3 dss, bas the back, while it
has DO traiD, is sloped away to point that
touches the floor, or perhaps it is long enough
foe t~0 or three ibche' OF the point to rest on
the floor. These ara so convenient in dancing,
more especially now that it is becoming the
f.shion to take steps instead of merely walking
tbr0ngh the figures of a qaadrie, that they
will doubtless grow 10 fayur A short white
satiD SKIRT of this kind was made PLATO, with
only pleateI satin fril sswed to the bottom
for trimming.
Three kinds of low corsages are used this sea-
son, VIZ, the vast with loog points, the bslted
Jose hioe corssge, and the corset basque. The
pointed waist has very harp poInfs in front and
back, while the sides detns the waist ioe; this
is much liked for satin waists, AID IS always
laced behind. The Josephine corssge il round,
g,ih vars Inv darts. a wide b-IL of aIlk 0r
satin folds. The corset basque dts precisely
ike COZ set over the hips, ana merely outlines
| fine figure. 1t has but f-w seams aud may
be laced b. hind or battoned III font. 1t has no
regular darts, but there is a seam down ths
middle OF The front. aud what is usually dart
ts carried on up to the neck, making two md
die forms; there is then uDler-arm gore and
short SD form in the back; the MIDDLE forms
of the back sueporf the eyelets for laelDg. The
lower edge Is finish d BY two silk cords. The
low neck is round, aud flushed By the becom-
log Greeian drapery made of folds of tulle
eGged with lace, sud caught together in the
u ddle OF the ttont by knot or cluster of soft
folds of the dress, SATIN or sllk. rhe sleeves
are the merest baud or frilI. Square necks are
also much used on low cJrsages, aud not few
are V-shaped; he preference, no wever, is for
the rouud low neck A roseLt- of satin ribbon
Is worn high on the left side Of Grecan Oerthas,
and a bow Of many loois is 90 the top of the
right sleeve.
When high eorsages are used the waist has
al 4ays basque b SEX, but may be short aud
round with a belt in front This basque Is
made dressy by full jibots of lace from the
throat down, or else IL Is cut out square. The
ieeves are transparent, Of lace or of thin silk
Dnsllu, aud may be long in coat shape, or else
only half-loug TO the elbow.
| An effective fabric in colors is garnet or CAL
dlnal red crape, which is sdem!-transpsreDt; this
,s is very suitable for dr.piog satin dresses
| There are also new damask Grapes with criukled
ground strewn with bouquets or single flowers
Jf the same coior. Tue striped moires, satin
| aud velvet striped gauzes, and repDed silks
striped with satin in coOrs, are much used as
| parts of bali toilettes The colOred gsuzes are
new, with small cross-bArs OF satin or of velvet
| like llues, aud there are delicate rose and blue
| Chambery gsuzes through which are woven
| threads of silver or of gilt
| Some Of the most distinguished looking even
| iDg dresses have skirts with straight fronts in
/ oanels and flowing trains, aud are without
| over,kirt or dtspery. This style is effective in
combinations Of two materials, as in oeauti-
| f1l dress Of pale pink brocade and pink silk.
| Ehe front eo'e-wh ch is divided into two mar
| row panels bg a seam straight down the MD
| dl---is Of brocade, while the side cores are of
p aiu silk turned back IN four-iOch panels from
| the brocsde; as the foot of the front cores is
| some fly ftuge, aud there are r0sates or satin
| -lbbou ia the panels. Back of the side CORES a
| aOd wide0s at the top, where it meets jn the
| ,ck and holds down the fulness of the straight
| flowing tralo a knile- -pleating edees the tram
| sod the side-gores. a low round basque for
| his dress will have the two middle forms of the
| 'Eont of bfoeade to 10 atch those of the skirt
Greek tulle bertha with pearl fringe and satin
l ruseJtes
| Bgttoued boots or French heeled slippers for
| dancing are made of the material of The dress
| or its trimmiug. Those of satin or Of brocade
| are CONSIDERED the most stylish. The silk
| stockings are of the same color, or else white
| with colored embroidery. The long gloves ex-
| tending half way to the elbow are OF Creamy
| white undressed bid, either plain or with lace
| Insertions and sris, or else the long lace Dits
| are worn in white, black, or color to match
| thu dress. An attempt has been made to in-
| oduce feather trimming instead of flowers for
| 0aii dresses, but ve'y young ladies Consider it
| 20 tld-Iooking. A Father ruff IN the hair is,
| however, much used. There Is fancy for
| striped SATIN OF striped moire fans made OF a
| oart Of the dress material. These are inexpeu-
| -lvely mounted in while imitation Of ivory.
Lace sc4sfs tor the b air aud S0rties du bal were
| larely drscrlb d at length In Bdzdr SIN.
| ,pl5r jewelry is now wore by fashiuua able young
| a9ies thap has lately been the custom, Many
! i.dles wear natural flowers on dress occasions,
! each one selecting a particular flower and con-
\ tinlng herself TO it. large clu-ter is stuck IN
the belt, and smaller one, contaioIDg, it NAV
be. q single flower, is fasteued high on the II II
de of the cor-age by jeweled brooch which
IS prepared for that purpose, or else oy few
/ oops of Iitboo.