The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-09-25
[Harper's Bazar.]
New York Fashions.

The use of satin has brought nto vogue again
lusrous silks with satin finish for the principal
parts of the dress Some OF the richest Paris
ian costumes for the winter are made OF black
satin de Lyon, which is silk with a satin-tin-
ished surface SO closely woven that the reps can
not be seen ON the lustrous side. This comes In
jet black shades of beautiful qualities at $3.50
or 1915 yard. Gros grains also take on an
added lustre, and notwithstanding the general
advance in prices, very handsome qualities are
found at 1925 yard, to be combined with the
richest brocades. When gros grains are chosen
those with very decided reps are preferred to
the medium reps lately used, as there will
probably be return to all-ribbed and velour
fabrics. The heavy Antwerp silks, sometimes
called cathedral silks, are sixty inches wide,
for cutting circular and other large wraps.
These are S13 yard. There are also armures
and satin de Lyon in these wide silks for
wraps. The brocaded black satins, or those in
one shade of any fashionable color, are chosen
for combining with plain silks The designs
are small and quaint, such as olives, stripes
with birds in them, Japanese fans, shells, palm
leaves, and thorny branches, polka dots, etc.
The new wool goods are pliable and OF light
weight, yet give the effect OF thick, heavy fab
RIGS. For plain costumes made entirely OF one
fabric there are cloth-like ''suitings," with in
distinct threads, lines, and checks of many col
ors mingled, and presenting the effect OF self
colored stuffs in fine wool and double width
these are $3.50 yard In the same class is the
Majolique camel s-hair, in two shaded stripes
of dark contrasting colorS, such as old gold with
the darkest Japanese blue, or with garnet,
green or brown. There are various glace-
shaded wool goods. Some are plain ground; (;
others are matte with squarely woven threads;
and others are pekins, having very small
stripes Red shot with green is evidently IA
vorite combination, as it is shown in changea-
BILE fabrics of all qualities. Plain colored goods
in all the new shades of blue, garnet, brown,
and green, are imported in Chuddah stripes OF
zig-zag weaving; in mummy-cloth surfaces OF
irregular waved dots and specks, IN small ar
mure figures; in crinkled Grape cloths, In reps
across like velours and cotelines or else length
wise, as in Biarritz cloths; and in the heaviest
twilled camel's- s-hair cloths, as we'll as those OF
light quality, like cashmeres. All such goods
are double width, and cost according to their
weight aud fneness, from $1.50 a yard to $500.
Brocaded wool goods of Oriental designs, es-
pecially those with palm-leaf and arabesque pat
terms form the largest part OF the importation
of fabrics that are meant to be used In comDlna-
ton with other goods. The richest OF these have
silk woven with them, sometimes as much as
two-thirds of the fabric being silk, yet the
wool is kept ON the surface, and the effect is as
rich as that seen in camels-hair shawls. These
come with black grounds nearly covered with
palms, or else the ground may be pale blue,
Scarlet. or cream color; they are double width,
and cost 81 or IS yard. Other broche goods
of similar designs are woven in single widths,
and cost from $1.25 up, and many are cut OIL
in short lengths, and put up i'll suit patterns
with plain repped woods OF any OF the new
stylish colorS.
For morning wrappers, for dressing sacques,
and for lining of wraps, there are camel Ps-hair
fannels in new patterns of brocaded stripes.
The contrasts of color are lovely in these,
showing rose pink with pale blue, garnet with
dark blue cream with red, or brown with gold
These cost $3 yard, and measure yard ana
q half in width.
For travelling suits the dark tartans in soft
twilled wool are shown again, and 1t Is found
that the largest plaids are most popular, es-
pecially those that combine blue with green.
They come in three qualities, costing Sl7o to
$2.25 yard
Worth sends short costumes of black satin
de Lyon with gay brocaded velvet basques and
trimmings The skirts of his walking dresses
are slightly pointed behind and although the
foundation remains narrow, a full effect is CIV
on by outside drapery This foundation or lin
ing is of inexpensive black silk with a deep
knife-p -pleating of satin de Lyon around the
bottom. Then, instead of a separate over
skirt, the drapery of satin de Lyon is sewed in
at the belt, and consists OF four long, fuli
straight breadths, shirred up each seam, and
trimmed down each seam with gay brocaded
satin in Cashmere COlOrS Sllk fringe Ileu Ill
the hem trims the front and side breadths,
while that behind which is very much fuller,
has deep knife-pleating like the founce be-
low it. A cluster of black satin loops showing
old gold lining is at the end of the lengthwise
bands of brocade. Panier scarfs of the black
satin de Lyon begin in front at the belt open
in curves, and end in the side seams, with
many loops of black and old gold.
Other suits of plain cashmere, either brown,
black, blue or dark green, have long basques
finished around the hips with gay brocaded
cashmere that is gathered to form paniel
scarf. This panier scarf is three and hall
fingers wide, and is sewed all along the edge OF
the basque. 1t is then shirred quite short i'll
front in two clusters that meet when the
basque is buttoned. and again in the back just
below the seams that unite the side forms to
the middle back forms; large bow, or else
three-cornered pieces like two half handker-
chiefs, are set in the middle of the back. Thls
plan is commended to those who wish TO re-
model plain suits of last winter. The skirts ior
such basques have the oveT-skirt made on the
lining (Which is really the lower SKIRT; ana
instead of being trimmed separately at the
bottom. the edges are covered by the cluster of
hounces at the foot Bands of the gay goods
are SET on each seam and the whole is shirred
sjiohtlv Sufficient fullness for the back is
given by the paner scarf which is attached to
the long basque, and makes the garment al
most half polonaise Buttons of two sizes
are on most suits. They are made of tinted
pearl, in all the gay colors that appear in the
Cashmere.