The Red Cloud chief., 1879-12-11
NOTES
husuea are worI

-Fts'N
vogue.
Black wraps are dc rigueur for
street costume.
Black cut Jet beads now trim all
dressy black suits.
-Fichus will be more fashionable
than ever this winter.
The new lace frsises are made very
high, and frequently wired.
Normandy point is the most suitable
lace for muh trimming, on account of
its durability.
Pale drab corduroy and wine ~
plum colUrel cImclis hair makes .
warm and drcssy street costume.
TIE NEW HATS
maintain their character for originality
and brilliant and picturesque effect. The
same contrasts, however, exist in head
gear that are found in other depart
mcnts of ladies clothing, and the most
fashionable milliners, instead II mixing
them all up together, now arrange them
with some attempt At classification. The
finest novelty If the season i uniOubt-
c,lly what j. known - the feather bon
net. This r. composed almost wholly Of
mounted feathers taken from the nccks
Of phcaSants, at least half i dozen Of
which are required for n chapeau.
The heads and one or more wings are
used for ornaments, and the former are
grouped together or placed in a row,
like Blue Boards wives, and with a saw
age sort IF irony, which one would i'm
aginc would prove suggestive of an I'M
pleasant sentiment to the tender heart
Of the wcarcr, but, contrary Ia the gen
eral opinion, women's hearts evidently
do not get into or affect their heads, for
no objections have rs Yet been made to
the bonnet on the score of cruelty To the
innoccnts.
Next Ia the feather bonnet in import
ance j. the beaver hat. This is large,
soft and furry, and the latest ..a@ony ="
is Ia turn up the wide brim low upon the
left side, with an owls head with great
round, staring eyes, and complete the
decoration with a very long ostrich
plume, shaded In natural c~olor>, for
beaver only ONE in shades of dark
ecru and mastic and in black, and it is
the first Ia wear the owl.
HI tiitAt III w III IltNA' ~
bonnet and large beaver hat are the
small DcrbyS, which have jumped into
II sort of a rage for girls, and are even
worn by ladies, though they do not seem
suitable for matrons. Much better are
the Soft-crowned bonncts of plain silk,
satin or velvet which are now furnished
ready for wear, except the final touch 81
trimming and interior ruchingS AT prices
ranging from two To four dollars.
JACKETS AND CLOAKs.
The jacket of the season is small and
close fitting, perfectly plain, no vest;
sometimes, in fact often, double-breast-
ed, with side lappels, upon the short
skirt of the back, which do not extend
below its edge; English collar square,
not large, pockets and cuffs. Ii fits
like a glove, except the buttons, which
are often striking, always handsome.
They are plain, and made in cloak vel
vet and velveteen in very dark wine and
cloth c%olors, rather than in black,
though black may be and is sometimes
used. 1t is not necessary at all that this
style of jacket should he the same color
AS the dress. On the contrary, it must
] cC uitItittl W bC " Us tN'tS III
stance, you will see dark brown with
ecru, wine color, lawn or gray dress; an
invisible green with plum color and gold
plaid.
The coat is a more dressy garment.
1t is a fanciful copy of a g~entleman's
dress coat, sometimes fastened down the
front, sometimes cut away, but usually
leaving very long, narrow tails, between
which may be a basque composed of 4
series of flat, side plaitingS, or a large
puff of the silk or satin of which the
dress is composed, and which these long
panels or straight lappels hold in place.
The coat, ike the jacket before men-
toned, is independent of the dress; at
least it is of different fabric, and only
corresponds or harmonizes with it in
color; never matches. 1t may, indeed,
offer the most striking contrast. All
that is necessary is that this color shall
reappear in some other part of the
dress or ~head-dress. For example,
. ruby velvet ceat may be worn
with white satin; n dark wine color
with pale amber; n brown with delicate
pink; a rich plum with olive; Il maroon
with pale lavender, etc. A coat, more
over, is never made plain, even of vel
vet; Il Jacket may be, but not a coat.
The latter, If of velvet, or any plain,
rich fabric, is enriched with embroidery
of gold, flat or rough, after the style IF
the Middle Ages; or it may be orna-
mented, instead, with an embroidery of
silk in which beads are intermiNed, or
with a leaf pattern of beads upon lace.
If buttons are used not more than six or
eight are required, and if possible are
artistic; delicate painting or enamel are
the most distinguished, if done after
original designs and by good artists,
and, next to these, something distinctive
i'm carved or inlaid pearl.
While cloSe-titting jackets and coats
have become a part Of elegant indoor
dress. the fitted garments have beer re-
tired in a degree from outdoor service,
and the d"lman, or 4 garment which is
Il sort of cross between the the dolman
and risitc, only longer,and with shoulder
pieces forming long sleeves, has taken
their places. The back is narrow ard
shaped SO as To fit the form, but The
sleeve gives il the dolman appearance,
while the front is Shawl-Shapcd, straight,
and closed from the top To the bottom.
JcRai, ,ygRc.
When Bismarck made his first visit
on Il diplomatic mission 10 Vienna. in
1852, there was not SD much attention
paid 10 him as on his recent appearance
in that city. A Vienna Journal recalls
that he was then wholly unknown to the
world, and only plain Herr Won Bis
marck Schoenhausen, his present rank
being 4 late acquisition, and that his
royal master, the King of Prussia. To
secure consideration for him, deemed ii
necessary TO address 4 special letter tn
Kaiser Franz Joseph. saying: Il coY-
fidc the honorable mission To your Ma
je>ty to my representative in the Ger
man Federal Parliament, Herr o Bis
marck S~choenhausen, whose family, one
Of the oldest, has almost Il longer pedi-
gree than mine, and whose ancestors
rivalcd the Hohenzollcrns in bravery and
,,.1;-,ry nx,ihi,- tbs i,sffar SutHca,i