The Phoenix herald., 1879-07-26
Wanderings in Patagonia.

Patagonia, to the majority of readers, IS a teT7a E,tc0gnitd. Few books have been written about 1t, and these were published many years ago. 4 volume recently issued by Henry Holt < Com pany, entitled & Wanderings in Pata- gonna, by Julius Beerbohm, comes to the public with the attraction of novelty Besides the valuable information 1t gives concerning this strange country and its picturesque descriptions of wild life upon the pampas and ostrich hunting, 1t possesses an additional attraction in being a narrative Of exciting personal adventures and hair breadth escapes.
 In August, 1877, Mr. Beerbohm sailed from Buenos Ayres with a party of engineers, who were going to survey aport1on of the eastern coast of Southern Patagonia. Shortly after his arrival at Port San Julian he received news which made his speedy return necessary. A party of four ostrich hunters were about to start for Santa Cruz, and from thence to Sandy Point in the Straits of MageI- Ian, where the steamer for Buenos Ayres touches. The author, therefore. chose this return route, which would also give him an excellent opportunity for further observation of the country.
 Whoever enjoys the beauties of na- ture, even in the widest state, should not think of going to Patagonia to in- dulge his taste. A series of level tracts or plateaus, where the vegetation is very sparse, broken by grassy ravines or canyons" in which clumps of un- derwood grow chains of sandy, barren hills; great plains of sand and stones with only here and there tuft of grass and a stuEted, black-locking bush. often thirty to forty miles in extent stretching away i'll dreary monotony to the horizon-these are the aspects of a Southern Patagonian landscape. There. are no small water courses, though in the ravlnes springs of fresh water are to be found. Shallow lakes are occa- slonally seen, which deceive the in experienced traveller in search of fresh water, for upon nearer inspection white crystals are seen upon the shores, which prove to be salt. In summer the water of these salt lakes evaporates, leaving a crust ot salt from two to four inches in thickness.
 Further south the author came upon scene of unequalled wildness and desolatlon. Apparently it was the re suit of volcanic action, for great bowl ders and sharp ridges of porphyry were scattered about amid the sand and scoriae. Hills, valleys, undulations were there, but not sign of life-no trace of vegetation-alI was silent, bare and desoIate, as though it were the very abode of death or "an unfinished DOT ton of the globe, the very skeleton of a landscape"
 Throughout the vast level tracts or pampas the only sign of human life and habltatlon Is the curling smoke from camp-hres of native Indians or the ostrich hunters. Attempts have been made by nelghboring South American countries to establish colonies in South ern Patagonia, but the settlements have been abandoned on account of the ster- lllty of the soil. The canyons alone present an appearance of fertility, but this Is not sufficient to warrant the pro duction of sizeable crops.
 Beerbohm gives lively description of his first ostrich hunt. The princi pal weapon of the hunters is the "bolas. |" or balls, which are !" either two round stones or pieces of lead, covered with leather and joined by thong from six to eight feet long; or three balls united by thongs to common centre" The hunter swings these balls around his head until the right pitch of velocity is gained, then hurIs them at the game :. the balls become entangled about what ever part of the creature is hit. checks its speed, so that the hunter soon comes up and dispatches 1t with his knife. The dogs started up an ostr1tch and gave chase, the hunters galloping in pursuit. The foremost of the pack had almost reached 1t, when suddenly the bird |" doubled" or darted side ways. and the dogs, unable in their headIong speed to immediately change their course, shot on ahead, and the bird es- capped. The ostrich often resorts to another trick, which is successful when the wind Is blowing against the scent; It lies flat on the ground, with neck out Stretched, and, nearly concealed by the long coarse grass, remains motionless until the dogs have passed on. Sud denly another ostrich started up from a nest almost under the horses feet. as the bird will not leave it's nest upon the approach of danger until thei last moment. An exciting chase ensued the horses tearing al ng at full speed :; again the bird seemed about to escape. when one of the party flung the bolas with successful aim, entangling its legs, bringing 1t to the ground, and the prize was soon secured. killed and hung to the saddle The ostrich of Southern Patagonia IS smaller than the Africa ostrich, and the feathers are not so valuable. One dollar to two dollars is the price per pound at Sandy Point. It's plumage Is brown in color, tipped with white. Ostriches are prized by the hunters as an edible, broiled ostrich wings being considered a great delicacy, having something the flavor of turkey. The eggs are also eaten. An ostrich egg IS about the size of eight hen s eggs and keeps a long time, being fairly eatable six months after being laid The nests are merely holes scooped in the sandy soil under the shelter of