New-York tribune., 1879-12-21
COOKING OF MEATS.
A.EEF- STEAKS AND ROAsTS.


The student OF cook books will often be amused
and somewhat puzzled at the contrariety OF the
directions given by the various culinary oracies'
For instance authority tells us never to skewer
baked beef but to use twne, as the skewers permit
the meat juices 10 escape; other anthorities arec'
the use of skewers. One tells us not to season the
beef until the surface is partly carbonized by heat
another directs that tho beef lie in marinade OF
seasoning for hours before t is subjected to the In
1ucnce of fire. Ono tells us toput no water In the
baking pan another tells us to put water there.
But these differences happily or unhappily do not
trouble the average American housekeeper who nass
way of her own inherited for generations. probably,
and who cooks she was taught to do The COOK
books show another curious thing. In theory none
of them advocate fried steak. 1t is broiled grlled.
deyilled, and done lots of other things TO-" but
there are no recipes for frying. Yet venture to
say that in one-half of the families where these
columns are read steak is fried rather than broled
1t is not always easy for those who burn wood to
command broiling fire. as those who burn an
thracite coal may always do, and in regions where
bituminous camel coal is used as fuel broling
fire IS out of the question unless charcoal is used
So ut the risk of being charged with culinary heresy
of the most grievous stamp we give the following
recipe for frying steak: Select nice slice of sir
lon tenderloin or round as the case may be. Trim
off all superlous parts and If the meat is tongh as
n great deal of our American beef is, it should be
placed on a steak board and pounded with steak
FOUNDER. eThis, too, is rank heresy, but when We
remember how rare q possession Is q mouthful of
perfect teeth and how often for want of an ivory
milln the poor stomach is imposed upon and ruined,
we must allow the FOUNDER. 1t Is true that tough
meat will yield to time and simmerng over a
smothered fire, and this is what il should do really
but time is often matter of great Importance and
the house must often be out Of the kitchen
and unable to look after the tedious operation of
simmering aud with her il is fried steak or nothing
Then have the frying pan hot over hot freput bit
OF suet butter in the pan and lay in the steak II
the pan Is hot the outer surface of the steak will be
crisped and the juices kept in. Stand right by the
steak every minute. turn ii when crisp side.
TO the othor and whom that side ia crisp turn ii over
again until il is done. This must be determined by
the tastes of the eaters-some like steak rare aud
some we'll done. Lay 1t on warm plato and
then season and servo Immediately. Into the fat
in tho frying pan stir q Tablespoonful Of -four and
when IL Is nicely Drowned pour in milk and stir till
the gravy is of the right consistency Then salt
and serve 1t is not pretended that steak cooked in
this way Is as wholesome as when broied OF SIM
mered down to q gravy. but 1t won't seriously hurt
stomachs which do not rebel against pickles. pastry,
tobacco beer, whiskey. and pork. As little fat as
possible should be used in frying the meat moro
may be added, If necessary, TO make the gravy.
To broil soak.-Have clear coal fire, rub little
fat on the broiling iron to keep the meat from
sticking and whom che iron Is hot lay the steak on
It, sWhcn crisp on ono side turn over, and when
done lay on varm plate sssson and sorva Steak