The Princeton union., 1879-03-19

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rial from the rest Of the garment. For
costumes made of cloth and the heavier
woolen goods used for early spring and
travelling the underskirt is not unfre-
quently without trimming Of any kind.
excepting several rows of stitching near
the bottom, and the overskirt ID Of some
simple design, like the "Birena," the
"Muriel" or the .Lilea," finished to
match the underskirt.
r2@a@sH% THE FRANCESCA. e Has
This is one of the simplest and most
practical designs for trimmed walking
skirt. It has moderately houffan
drapery, and is finished bY q deep kilt
plating on the bottom. This skirt is
suitable alike for heavy or light goods,
dressy or ordinary wear, and is really an
excellent design for washing fabrics. For
dressy wear, or where I ombination of
materials is used, the Berenice is especial.
ly desirable. This has short, fully
draped apron, from which revers are
turned back and carried to the back,
where they support the drapery in mod
crate pouf. Another new style, especially
suitable for supper silks and grenadines,
is the Lltta, which has the apron and side
cores puffed and the buck effectively
draped. Two, and even three materials
are e,: used 4 in combination for street:
costumes, and this applies to the simple
suits made of percale, cotton satin,
marine cloth and other fabrics for sum
mer wear. The rule observed when only
two fabrics are used is to have the costume
itself made entirely of one goods and the
accessories ana trimmings Of the ether.
There is wide scope for the exercise Of
much taste in the selection and, arrange
ment of the goods to be used in com bina-
tion, and while strong contrasts ars al-
lowable, good taste dictates that. afA
rangements must not be bizarre In effect.
RECEPTION TOILETS. l;sf .fat
An elegant reception toilet is arranged
with the "Rosalind" train and the
''Desiree" basque, made in moss green
silk, with the vest, collar and cuffs On the
basque of French MORE of the same color,
satin stripe alternating with a.swatered
one and the puffngs on the front of
white crepe lisse. This dress is trimmed
with an exquisite fringe of green twist
and chenill combined, having strands
dotted with crystal beads. A very silly.
ish dress is made in chine summer silk.
dark plum and old gold colors, trimmed
with plain plum colored silk and rich
fringe in which both colors are intermixed.s
The trained skirt is known as the 'Gwen-3
dOline," and is trimmed with broad revers,
on the front, which are connected with
panier drapery at the sides, while the
back is looped in simple but very efec-
tive manner. The bottom of the skirt is
trimmed with Marguerite plaitings of the
the same material as the dress, headed
by chicoree ruching of old gold and
plum colored silks. The ''Anatolia'
basque has a plain vest in front with
broad revers at the sides continuing to
the back, which is much longer than the
front. 3%@',, TX ss3o .. S..ss
The ''Paulyna" costume is designed
for young lady of fourteen, and is verb
handsome. The "Dotha" skirt is anothy
er attractive style. The Brenda" jacket
is decidedly masculine in character, and
has coat back, with the side for nj
carried to the shoulders. ..ls /
| FASHIONABLE MATERIALS FOR THE SEASON
While the spring is scarcely more thai
prophecy and promise the shops ars
full Of seasonable fabrics. The first thai
are likely to be required are heavy wool
suitings, which of late years have been
known under the general term of camel's
hair cloths, and these are now introduced
in what ~----~l'<~a ~a--...1'eso- v0iors--o ana are
extremely soft and flexible. The surface
this season is smoother than before,
though the long hairs are not lacking.
Chashmeres are rapidly taking the place
of camel's hair fabrics, and there are
new effects IN this long familiar suiting.
Crepe cashmere has the crimped appear
ance which it's name indicates and is seen
in a variety of new colors. Light wooden
goods are attractive in various shades of
beige, as gray, and not unfrequently are
f1ecked by threads of darker tcne running
crosswise. Others show fine twills or
diaper patterns, while varieties are found
exhibiting long hairs lying flat over the
surface, these being copied from India
caners hair goods. Small and some
what indistinct checks, composed of
divers shades of gray or brown, give ad-
ditional opportunity for selection. These
materials are all wool and quite thin,
with a''flannel fnish,'' rendering them
soft to the touch. For travelling and gen
eral wear during the summer thew will
be found excellent. They come both in
single and double widths; prices COM
mence for the former at forty cents, and
the latter at 81 per yard.
Pekin wools display surface covered with
narrow stripes set close one to the other.
| These are alterations of different shades
OF brown or gray. The floral ideas of
the time also find representation in thin
silk and wool materials, designed for
spring and summer, and pretty effects
result from silken leaves and flowers on q
woolen surface. New gauzes upon a del
icate surface, display Pekin stripes of vel.
vet, these being narrow and having only
small intervals of gauze bet1 cen.
Sometimes the colors are the same in
both; but Oftentimes CAV effects resu1i