The New York herald., 1879-08-10

the director has had the sake ol concord
among clerks that henceforth Knocked in felts and
Phrygian caps shall not be subject to misapprehen
sion, their to be looked hostile
TO any other form of government.
EARLY FALL SHAPES AND NOVELTIES.
There are at Nine. Eugenie's two other new
models for the early fall. One wide with high
and nat crown and no curtain. - slightly curved
III front though expanded and lined with gathers.
1t is all ivory satin antique but the lining is corded
silk of the shade. The trimmings ostrich
piumes two curling forward and one over the crown
while the strings. both wide aud long, are crossed
over the nape OF the neck aud tiled in large bows
to the lett of the chin. THIS shape is
intended tor dark American ladies' AS a
rule the strings will be brought forward from
the back, and they placed low behind but shot
drapery. laid in close folds and made of every de-
scription of shot materials. is the new trimming.
The new brownish red, which Louis XVI. was the
first to call .ea and is properly callei canaque."
is much made up with garnet and ruby.
There are canaque roses. The great novelty in
covered. are the lophophore. mixed with bronze
spanges. handsome round crown is en-
crusted with design III span9les close to
another in lophophore; the rim is Marie Stuart.
beautiful pamela Is ornamental on the top with a
chaplet OF large shot pows closely tied together ana
on the side spreads large Malacca dove. which Is
preferred this year for the changetul hues OF its
plumage In the ateliers above mentioned l saw
the new 'pompon rose. 1t is black and mace or
feathers, with gilt contours it is shaped like rose
bending on the stalk and Will appear in all shades
A tavorlte shade Will be scarabee
SHAPES AND SHADES FOR THE OPERA.
The shapes tor the opera and their trimmings are
more uressy than formerly. This is due to the va
riey or open shapes, that necessarily filled with
delicate pale flowers with lace and plunes. tiny
lophophore cord is used for the inside or rims. 1t
is sewed at intervals to the gathered fiat Innings
which are now as much matter of debate out
side trimming. curious felt Is the pink clover.
There close shapes also. but they the dstin
guished minority and trimmed with beautiful bead
work. The IDEAS this coming season are mostly
inspired by Brittany and the fashions worn
in that province from 1890 to 1895. Some
of the shapes are in the sail-away style.
The shades all bright; there is red antique
and anaranth, dark peony red, purple red, and all
the reds make up With brown ruby, with garnet
and the girohee colors. The time las come when
the prejudice against red has length ceased
exist. For years this color was considered vulgar;
but culture teaches that, like black and white it
| solemn and neutral Red submits to variation ac-
cording to the position it holds to the effect of light
and to contrast. 1t has different harmonIes in diff
ferent combinations. or rather it has different
Values it is conspicuous or it is sobered down. and
never fails to break monotony.
ALL KINDS OF BLUES.
We have, too, various blues-Japan blue and blue
after shower; Italian ware blue, and sketch blue,
kind of faint gray with blush tint II is
beautiful with white for evening attire. Persian
colors are i'll great vogue They are delightfully."-
SOFT and yet distinctly yellow, red brick purple and
blue, but blended i'll one surface Tor casaquires,
loose mantle coaks and ornamental parts OF dress.
The calnaen blues soft woollen tor vests aud for
putings let in are artistic i'll the extreme. Some OF
the new indiennes, all ahame with red and yellow,
are marked round the design with gold thread and
sod at 23f. per metre These traceries are called
Louis Nil. embroidery. 1t may be asked where all
kind is viewed in Parisan walks. In the diploma
fists world. the financial world and III the
chateauX
GOSSIP ABOUT
We have had excursions this summer, the
weather having prevented every kind OF sport Ill the
way OF yachting, angling and flirting. Then COM
pany only feeling its way around the Presidential
circle. Satirists have been unkind to every one
holding prominent position, people say, and it is
hoped NJ lirevy will call all the moades together in
grand tete. He is actually being accused already Of
accepting invitations and not returning and curiosity
wants to be satisfied as regards Nine GTevy. Ii
hospitality OF kind do not stop all the
witticisms afoat Mme ana Mile. Grevy win be carl
catured unlnercitully was Mile. Feicie Dosne,
sister-n-law to NJ. Ihiers. Already suggestions OF a
disagreeabe kind made through the press and
gentleman owns, or rather happens to be owner of
house in Paris OF which the tenants, though fair.
happen to be somewhat eclectic in their conjugal
tastes. Whenever an occasion is afforded this un-
fortunate house, its owner and his tenants
are alluded to. Thus short rarenthesis lately
announced that NJ. Grevy would attend
some meeting avec sa mason. But" added the
writer. las mention was made of his secretary s
n,aison; it is supposed it will not be wanted" At
other times this mdison called the distiug uishel
gentleman serda Mile. Grevy is said to be both
amiable and pretty. The review was her first ap-
pearance in public but, unfortunately the weather
was arocious and her mauve toilette had to be pro-
tected under long overcoak and her features under
veil.
Cdche-poussieres tact the toilet of the day.
They teres, with open Jewish sleeves that are
faced with velvet. or they are derote also long anu
tight overas made of satinet and glossy alpacas.
Charming loose domans are made of beige fannel-
finished cloth. but these have half sleeve that but
clears the elbow is faced with gathered satin,
while tho crmped silk fringe is mixed
with balls OF gimp and even trou Jreu
ionaDle adornments both for woollens and silk
and for costumes. Walking dresses are growing
shorter. Box pleating, killing and bias bands Of
the material used tor adorning sleeves and bodice
are their usual make. Colored casaquines are the
novelty still Japanese buttons richly carved and
enamelled. Some very beautiful toilets have been
sent Barritz, where gay doings are being looked
for during the stay OF the Prince of Wales and of tue
King of Spain 1t is pleasant to know that
gay life is the move somewhere. Surely Biarritz
is the only spot and the field enough, the
whole esplanade being strip OF green between Villa
Eusene and the waves. Small rs this prone
naue be Spanish ladies' make the most OF it, All their
dresses are cleaning; there is the antique and the
modern there the medieval and the Renaissance.
The aesthetic alone is banished that style not being
favorable to the bruno with skin slightly gildcd
by many past suns.
All their morning fans are either Indienne or POM
work meandering below deep margin of andrino-
pie. Their artistic dress styles are outre. When a
Spanish sehora English girl goes in for revving
the Velasquez or the Holbein fashions they generally
overdo their models. II must be admitted that
there is satisfaction in setting ones own
individuality, as it were. the style OF
dress preferred and adopted. but tact more than
ordinary taste is req ured. Ladies may be reminded
that the neck OF bodice and its sleeve sufficiently
show TIE style and period its wearer is dcsrous to
recall Attention. too. is essential in the selection
of colors which should be brick any of the tans or
browns, paon, Russian blue, grayish blue, olive
green aud amaranth red clover. Any OF the old
gold shades relieve these The general features
pointed, peaked ana WnaltDoneu Waists, WIFI
funess over the bust close ruffs stand mp col
lars. the latter not too high. but more in the
rounded, sailor shape and pulled sleeves. The
latter are varied by either having one puff
on the armhoe and another the elbow
or by wearing perpendicular pus in several places.
Puns are also siashed with satin bands. but pretty
is the wide at the top and narrow
on the wrist Fellows, browns and violets are
coors FOR pufs with sober green ground for chief
material and they should be OF satin Bodices, which
already fasten at the back and sleeves. which are
in the arrnholes very high indicate that ladies'
read up historical dress IN order to advise their
drcssmakers in the matter of good selections. The
study OF old masters and attentive consideration OF
pictures sixieonth century, will greatly assist indi-
vidual idea.
INFLUENCE or ITALIAN MASTERS.
Horizontal ruunngs are another indication of copy
from the Italian masters. The low Rubens bodice,
filled in to the throat with Indian muslin, COM
Iuencinp. The coife is another item. We have like
wise gathered skirts in pompadours tpoth cotton
and silk, which all are familiar with. Hat pleats
round the waist not having appeared i'll our own
times before 1852. The bodices are cut long, with
rounded peaks in front and behind The skirt opens
np1 10 ha n N cac id, to