The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1879-02-05
THE COOKS EESTITAL
The Remarks able Display OF Culinary Art
Ihnt Mns Made Inst NIeht.

II was q festive spectacle. last night at
the Academy Of Music. on tho occasion ofthe an
nual ball Of the Socidt6s Culinaircs Philanthro-
pique and COsmopolite. In good attendance.
good music. and good spirits it was all that
could be desired. But rs art. as an exposition
Of high culinary morals 1t was below former
years. when the nrst-n -nnmed society held its an
nual display in Irving Hall and other lesser
places than the Academy Of Music
Apart from the bad taste Of serving croquettes.
or any other wnrmed-over food. on formal oc-
cgsiqn, the general pettishnrss Of treatment
must be censured. This small style.
though well enough. for ordinary oc-
Pang@e Much oU. excellent 'Pa5P,'r %5pS dexiSrous S
handling of material. WIS observable. too OH
srrvnhle in TACT bnt with il an almost all PER
Nadinc platitude. The exceptions 10 this were
n striped ha-s in its native element which
was simulated by waves OF whipt butter:
cook. lis scales were made conspicuous. the
iorm WIS kept intact, ana not ~ IN too many
,oinrr cisrs con'rhied by cNiraneous soaiings
til u could not he told from any other FISH that
swns. Form ~ the intellect of a style. and
must not b" sacrInced to any mere feeling OF
color or fanciiuln"ss Of decoration.
piece consisting u three sucking pigs.
roasied. was in high style. and very expressive.
They eyed each other IN an indrs,ritab'e way.
IL was a sight To- inspire Charles Lamb with "a
new and enlarged idea OF the possibilities OF
ronst nix.
4 ilff't' WHICH FN'ltFl tlN inter tl tlN lllln@
especially WIS two mould- ol Jelly. one over IN"
other. with an electric light hurning M the top.
tho wires of the battery being twined in and ont
Of the surmountng ornament An electric
light rs certainly an interesting thing In It's
place. hut whnt had tito do with those two brown
ONuls Of cold Jelly
Very elaborate dishes were designed for the
vinnds. tut there WAS often singular want oi
relation between disn and Wand. Undisguisc
white sugar dishes. with fancy figures around
IN" edges. contained fish. calves foot Jrlly.
pate de- foie-gras. and 50 on. Not thus
did the creut Carame design dishes.
but with him each dish aud Wand were
in strict fitness and consonancc. 4
grotesGue figured. and was much enjoyed.
an enormous human head. with hand hold
ing iork. Before Il was set Dreaded frog.
An epicurean smile ran around the huge
mouth, which enjoyed before touching Ii was
styled II. VI. :. pinafore."
their absence THIS is significant. All the
great culinary artists were humorists They
We're, besides. alive tu the questions OF the hour
and made political parodles IN potatoes. and
sntlr'2ei state affairs IN frogs mud fishes.
IL i- rs well not tn make special mention ~
muuy other pieces; for every true cook Ii ai
heart "A Natel. mud though none ot them is AS
good ~ he ought 20 he or a. he would have lis
believe him to Doe. 10 is better % have every cook
stand upon tie order Of his going and not eout
once. Iu"y must .howevcr.stDp using that iouiI~
ht'lr ruse Of a looking ass lake with Cro'on
wutrr nnd goldfish for at least hall the Things 10
is used for now. II is very VOL In fishing
scene" whore it can do duty tl the occasion IN.
hut what on earth can II iueHn rs 20 base tn %
pound cake. irut Jelly. sugar lion,
or a horsef Let our ingenious cooks
study the masters. No amount oi nero handl-
work Will make a cook--the cook must have
brains, and dish must rmhody an idea
The bnll OF she night was. oi course. enjoyable
in the highest degree, and everything went
merry ms q dinner bell. To the harmony of "a
hundred musirians. dancing was kept W tili
the COOKS and their company were iull Of the
may