Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1879-04-02
LEAVING THE LIMBS FREE.
Something Better than Pull-Backs for
the WOmen--The English Movement
for Greek Styles of Dress for Women.
Boston Transcript.

Boston Transcript.
Every few years some enthusiastic
woman comes forward with plan for
changing the dress of her sex and Incl
dentally reforming numerous abuses of
the laws of health and good taste.
Amelia Boomer was the last person who
made any converts to change in outer
clothing, and all her disciples have long
ago died or lost faith in her, and the
costume of which she was the advocate
can only be found in some "water
cures" and a few gymnasiums, and pos
sibly at Vineland, N. J. Then came
the American dress-reform movement
and a general change in the style of I'M
derclOtning, not only in the United
States. but in England, France. and
even Germany. Thickly-g gathered gar
ments, with straight seams, were re-
placed by others gored and shaped to
the figure; two garments were made
into one and all were arranged SO that
the whole weight Of the dress hung from
the shoulders, and for time women
seemed contented. The pretty princess
dress or notifications Of it, which did
justice to good figure when worn with
this Undertaking, was so graceful that
one could hardly believe it modifca-
ton Of the comparatively ugly "em-
press" of dozen years ago, and was so
comfortable that everybody was loath
to forego it when fashion threatened to
substitute the sacque or Louis XVI.
panniers for it. Several English ladies
of taste determined either to keep their
princess dress or something very like it,
and not to be transformed into the like
ness Of Marie Antoinett's maids Of
honor, are strenuously urging the adop-
ton of the ancient Greek dress, with
very slight notifications. This cos
tune consists of two pieces, the chiffon
and himation, or shawl as it is usually
called by its advocates. The former is
gown, which may be either high or
low necked, short or long sleeved, but
which should be scanty and should have
as few seams as possible. 1t may be of
cotton, linen, silk or wooden, but should
not be stiff, and it may be just long
enough to touch the ground or may
have a train. Its color may be white,
saffron, blue, gray, purple or olive green,
and it may be striped, figured or even
checkered. The shawl may be of the
same or of different material to the chit
on, and is simply seamless piece of
cloth about two yards square, or accord
ing to the rules laid down by some la
dies, two yards by four. The Greeks
threw this garment over the left shout
der, brought it round under the right
arm, and then threw it over the left
shoulder again, adjusting the folds with
as much grace as possible. The Eng
lish ladies draw two of the corners over
the shoulders, leaving long loop to fall
below the waist at the back, and draw
ing the edges together at the front, pro.
ducing an effect not unlike that of an
oversklrt opening slantwise down the
center. This arrangement leaves all
the limbs free. and is perfectly easy and
graceful; but it takes time and taste,
and some ladies prefer to fasten the
shawl IN its place by loops passing
over buttons on the chiffon and It's
girdle, SO that it requires but a few
moments to draw its folds into place.
The trimming Of the chiffon and the
shawl may be of infinite variety, from
alpaca braid to Oriental embroidery;
it may be wrought into patterns of com
plicated richness Or laid on in straight
bands. The proper place for it is
around the borders of the shawl, the
lower edge Of the clifton, the wrists of
the sleeves, around the neck, and pos
sibIy down either side Of the opening in
front. The shawl may be edged with
fringe and may have tassels at the cor
ners to hold it in place, according to
the ancient Greek custom, or may be
left as it comes from the loom. There
is no lack Of chances to display hand
some jewelry with this dress. The
shawl is clasped on the shoulders by Or
naments that may be large or small. as
one pleases; the girdle may flash with
diamonds and rubies may glow at throat
Or wrist, Or even clasp the gown from
throat to hem and the sleeves from
wrist to shoulder, if one please, without
offending against classic taste, so that
the love Of ostentation can be gratifed
as easily while wearing this simple
dress as when arrayed in the regulation
"suit of four pieces" Several of the
persons who have objected to the cos
tune ask why the princess may not be
substituted for the chiffon, and the an
swer to this inquiry is that the later is
more simple to make and easy to fold,
and therefore to be preferred to the
princess, although it does not fit quite
SO smoothly. The shawl needs no rec
ommendatlon to any one who has seen
it, and few who have do not hope for
it's introduction. There is some danger
that its English advocates will create a
prejudice against it by calling it a dress
for persons of culture, and seeming to
restrict its use to class, thus con-
demning it to an existence as restricted
as that of the elegant pre-Raphaelite
gowns; but it is to be hoped that If it
should make its appearance here,
American women will have more sense
than to speak of it as the property of a
clique. The most beautiful woman
cannot wear it in public without attract
ing disagreeable observation until it is
put within the reach of all, and its gen.
eral adoption will not detract from the
peculiar grace of those who diSDlaV