The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-06-19
Harper's Bazaar.
New York Fashions.

that are cut in English coat shape, to serve as
street garment without an extra wrapping
The front has two darts but no cross basque
seam, and this sometimes compels the use of an
under-arm dart, which gives the effect of two
side forms in the back. The first side body
begins in the armhole, and in many cases the
second also but the long side forms beginning
in the shoulder seams have proved so becoming
to most figures that the attempt to give them
up has been failure, as many ladies insist
upon having them. There are, however, fewer
seams in the back than when the long corset
like cuirass was SO popular. The middle seam
| is usually retained, though not always. Some
of Worth's handsomest fitted waists are made
with merely the two short side-form seams in
the back. There is less effort to make the fig
ure taper toward the waist line; hence all the
forms Of the back are equally broad at the
narrowest part The greatest changes are
made below the waist in the back by the intro
duction of the paner fullness, which is not
confined to the skirts of the dress, but is seen
on the basque as well. Sometimes the side
forms are cut quite long and broad, are piped
on the front edges and at the bottom while
the back edges are laid in three or four pleats,
and are brought together quite high up, nearly
to the waist line, the middle forms, where
| they are further enlarged by having shell
bow of satin placed upon them; this bow con-
ceals the joining of the pleats. The ends of
the middle forms are in this case laid quite fiat,
and are shaped TO form two wide loops Such
a basque as this is quite bouffant of itself and
adds to the general panier effect. This design
is excellent for black grenadines, with satin
bows for trimming. Another plan, very effec-
tive in summer silks, is that of widening each
form of the back from the waist line down,
and drawing il up in puffs by two or three
rows OF shirring down each seam, or else laying
pleats i'll the seams and covering them with
chain of loops of narrow ribbon. When the
flat basques of last season are to be renovated.
full effect is sometimes given them by put
ting on panier sashes of wide ribbon or of
satin, or bias silk, or China Grape; these are
from two to three-eighths of yard wide, are
sewed in the under-arm seam just below the
waist line, and when brought together lower
down in the middle of the back, they are tied
i'll large, round, looSe-looking knot from
which the two ends hang; a tassel of fringe or
Jet, or pleating of lace, finishes each end.
When the hiDs are very small this panier sash
may be begun further forward in the last dart
In some basques it is almost confined to the
hips, as it stops at the edge of the middle forms
OF the back, and is sewed in the seam there in
pleats; the middle forms are then cut in
drapery is sometimes put around the hips of
polonaises. Another quaint fashion is that of
having the sash begin in the under-arm seams,
and tied loosely quite low down in the front,
giving anegligee look that is seen even ON full
dress toetteS.
When vests are used they are most often of
contrasting colors, and the caprice now is to
find some new shape for the outlines. In
many Partisan dresses the vest is as sharply
pointed below the waist as is the pointed front
of low corsage In others the vest presents
an oval outline, getting smallest at the waist
line and stopping there. The most popular
forms of the vest, however, show only at the
top and bottom, being covered in the middle
by the basque, which is double-breasted and
fastened by from three to six buttons. EN-
broidered satin vests are imported for the rich
est silks and grenadines and for satin dresses.
They are usually in contrast to the color Of the
dress, even black dresses having very gay vests.
They cost, with some additional embroidery
for trimming, S15. Another fanciful vest for
black silks and for grenadines is made of black
lace laid over white or colored silk, either
cream, gendarme blue, narcisse yellow, salmon,
or very pale Nile green. To make these lace
covered vests more dresSy the ends are sepa-
rated from the basque front, and are gathered
together and finished with tassel of pleated
lace or else of jet fringe, which hangs low ON
the front of the overskirt.
The fancy for draping the fullness of over
skirts very high is bringing round waists into
prominence again, the tails of basques con-
ceal such drapery. AS yetthey are not very gen.
orally worn, though some of the newest French
dresses made for ladies who have very long
waists dispense with basques entirely and
have merely broad belt all around. Other
costumes left over from last season have this
appearance given them very easily by merely
putting the belt of the overskirt upon the out
SIDE OF the basque, and adding broad belt of
ribbon or the material of the dress trimming
Sometimes two long wide loops and two long
er ends of sash ribbon are added directly in the
middle OF the back The belts made with 9TH
or rn1rrn no Of4 Inxv AL
reticule of the material of the trimming attached
to them and hanging on one side.
Deep apron over-skirts remain in favor, not
withstanding the introduction of shorter
aprons. Their style depends ON their simple
drapery, and in a measure on their plainneSS,
that is the absence of all trimming. They
are caught up very high on each side indeed
almost to the belt by one or two clusters of
shirring or else by single bunch of pleats
that are very near together The back breadth
then falls plainly, and hoops at the bottom by
reason of its scantiness or else it is very wide,
consisting of the entire breadth of double
width goods, and has bunch of pleats in the
middle to correspond with those on each of the
sideseams; this gives very graceful bouffant eff
feet. Other aprons are q series of irregular
folds or wrinkles held in place by a tape that
passes underneath down the middle of the front
breadth, to which the under part of each fold
if tackled. Still others are merely aprons with
out any back dsapery; these aprons meet under
the ends of the basque behind, and the back
breadths of the lower skirt have then three
deep fiounces covering them from the belt to
the foot. The pleated fronts of skirts are also
sometimes put in the apron instead of the low
er skirt. Thus there is single broad pleat
down the middle of the apron its whole length,
or else there are two or three narrower box
pleats. Sometimes pretty effect is given by
having the front breadth of striped or plaid
material while the remainder of the skirt is of
solid colored goods The over-skirt is then
shirred down the seams that join it to the
md &c hrrr plafl
draped behind. Sometimes there is
cluster of lengthwise pleatS that form the side
cores OF the over-skirt; the fancy is to have
these laid in eight pleats, four of which are
turned toward the back and four toward the
front, meeting in the middle of the gore; then
quite near the foot the pleats are not pressed
in, but are gathered horizontally in rows of
shirring. The curtain effect grows more and
more popular for the fronts of overskirts, and
the objection that it displays too much of the
lower skirt is removed by filling up the space
left open in the middle of the front with deep
lengthwise fan of silk or satin or else by hay-
ing several rows of knfe-pleating mounted hor-
izontally on foundation of crinoline muslin,
and basting this in the open space; when COM
pleted, this has the effect of trimmed lower
skirt with curtain drapery, but is more
useful, because the lower skirt can then
be worn with other over-skirts. As we
have noted above, it is not considered
Objectionable if the back drapery is so drawn
upward that the ends "hoop" as modistes call
ehAo SiIOOO 10 plOeOiiJ given oh IOuCu uICSo-
es by taking two lengths of single-width goods
for the back drapery, and leaving them in one
entire piece not cut apart at the bottom; the
sides are then piped, and the two ends are
brought together at the top, and fastened by
deep shirring on the end of polka bodice.
This bodice is a compromise between round
waist and a basque, as it extends just below
the waist line quite evenly all around. Such a
bodice and drapery of gendarme blue grena-
dine has brocaded cream and blue fronts OPEN
ing in curtain fashion, without trimming of
any kind upon lower skirt of blue silk that
has merely shell border tlounce for trimming.
Among other new departures, one, that mo-
distes predict will become more popular in the
autumn, is that of having the basque of entire
ly different material from the skirts This is
shown at present i'll black brocaded silk basques
with two skirts of plain black silk. The basque
is made in round English coat shape, and
serves nicely for street garment without a
wrap. Occasionally striped basques are shown
in the same way.
Bunting balmorals are found light and pleas
ant for summer wear. They are shown in cream
white, pale gray, light and dark blue shades,
frimmad with one two. three rows of knife