The New York herald., 1879-07-29
AT FGHA NlS4AN.
Journey from the Amu-Daria to
Mazar-i-SheriG.
CROSSING THE OXUS.
Troubles with Officials and
Servants.
IN THE LAND OF MYSTERY.
Reception by the Governor
of the City.
TAsnKESD, June 10, 1879.

'If all goes we'll. You shall hear from me VI Caoui
between tho 18th and Goth OF May
SO wrote you in my last, and the end OF May
coming apace. with torrid sun IN It's tralh'
found me no further advanced than to the right
bank of the Amu-Daria. The march from Bokhara'
bustling with life, had opened merrily as farce
and just as you have seen the betrothed couples
come down hand in hand to the footlights smirxing
and chirruping, and the fatal "Bless you my chill
dren" trembles the lips Of their respective papas'
when suddenly note arrives. proclaiming that Mr.
Slasher is a coward and Mr. Crasher poltroon and
that the marriage nevertake pace-so you might
have beheld my projects shattered and my hopes de-
stroyed by the sudden desertion Of my servants we
had scarcely reached the limits Of Russian territory
when my entire staff gave me warning that il per-
sisted in my intention of entering Afghanistan
/ must go alone Vainly did threaten
them with Imprisonment for breach OF con-
tract. THAT" said they, sis merely question
Of liberty; the other is one of life. 10 make mat
ters worse, despatch was brought mo from the
Governor of Samarcand, saying that His Highness
Yakoob Khan had not yet condescended to answer
my demand for passport to his domains. And still
another worry in the whinis of my interpreter
This worthy the Of Moscow tradesman.
and his first on reaching Tashkend was to learn
II there was any one there who could replace him
Finding there was none and that he had me at his
mercy he proceeded to enjoy himself to the utmost
newer stirring abroad except in q carriage, never
speaking Russian but to drive private bargain with
my tradesmen, insisting that he should share my
room with me, robbing me of my favorite turban
and getting the Tashkend judge so deeply into his
debt that my last chance Of redress was gone. Luck
lily, however. found strolling player. who had q
smattering of English, German and French and who
consented to serve condition that let him
xubcr wi ms
readily complied, and so. after much tribulnton,
reached the banks of the Amu-Daria-the historic
Oxus.
FoRDING THE RIVER.
Here, on the watery frontier that separated mo
from Afghanistan, the country which had so long
been in my dreams, the country that in my brain
had assumed the proportions of Israel's Promised
Land-standing here, like Moses upon Pissah, I
began to fear that should see than its
shores. for malignant spider, as big as sparrows
egg. and with in its bite fell on me unawares
during the night and routed me utterly. For all
that was up with the dawn. My baggage and pack
horses to before me, and had already
started. At the nearest ford the Amu-Daria is mile
and quarter broad Looking across it the eye finds
no resting place i'll the fiat country scarcely tingcd
with green, which stretches away to the horizon be-
yond these brackish waters rolling through miles Of
sterility their burden of gray mud The Danubos
banks wake few enotions the ANU -Dara's mono. The
ferry boats five i'll number. and their primitive
condition shows you that the relations of the two
countries not intimate The natives know them
by the classic of caiques. Caiques of Constan
tinople. gondolas of the Golden Horn, gliding with
musical flash of oar through the perfumed air. how
ye desecrated! Barges some twenty feet long.
some eight in BREADTH having a boat-hook ut the
stern which is supposed to act o rudder, but
which grips the water SO feeby that the boat floats
with the wind carrying a dozen passengers whose
horses have to wade out into the stream and then to
be lashed turously before they can be to
come on board, whore they shiver, whinny aud
tremble during the entire voyage. These the
caiques OF AmuDaria. In the bow of each boat sits
the coachman. Coachman! echoes the surprised
reader. Certainly. An Afghan Jehu. whip and reins
in hand has horse by the tail to our STEM
II the wind blows with any force he harnesses two
and guides them to right left deftly he
would drive through the streets OF city: Our
Rosipante is nothing but skin and bones Weight,
rather than strength seems to keep him going.
Three-quarters of the time he is swimming thus
take nearly an hour to cross. and then lean
stood his head to the north aud draws the
along the marshy shore for the FIVE miles that we
have lost by the force OF the current We are three
hours returning.
Here. at last. is Afghanistan. am met by func-
tonary, who issue majestcay from a hut built OF
bamboo and placing his right hand upon his heart,
salutes l learn that he is called tho serher
dues according to n tariff, which varies with
the tollpaycr's appearance being particularly hard
av On the S wSyworn % and ragged pilgrims to Mecca
rounded by throng of native soldiers, keen-eyed
garrulous and hungry looking. their pay being s4
month-pour tout I,otdge. They constituted them
selves escort. atIred in their short cameps hair
tuncs. their striped turbans. their trousers drawn
tight at the ankle over yellow CATERS, their flint
and lock pistols at the waist. their antiquated mus
kets. with iron prong, and ii was noon before
reached our first halting place, where tents were
q iel % frnm
suns glare. The Serkcr and pay little compli-
ncntary visits to each others tents the hungry
escort stands pecping outside. and @ lively
hustle announces the arrival of our foraging
parties with grass for the horses and chickens
me. lcod water is served immediately. This Afghan
speciality followed by the dinner Hore is the bill
fare served with the help Of big brass dish hold
ing dozen little dishes made of the material
and quantity hung with bels:-Mutton hash, pdtes
d black meal, marrow bones from the blue bull,
slowed pears. small cucumbcrs, roast chicken iced
with sugar thcarit shades of Natcl and FrancateD
with the khebale, consisting of four pieces of nut
ton roasted on aspit. two fowls served up
rods and. need hardly say. the intermnable pilau
Saving the roass. all tho dishes swim in oceans of
tafrontinted gravy. Thoy are followed by u COLA
ton of pears and grapes brought from Mazar-i-
sheriff. had discussed the fruit with Infinite rusto
when my friend the Serker. to inform mo that
upon mature reflection he I'll ought IL better 20 keen
under his ego till he got word from the Governor
OF Mazar-i-sheriil and to my CONSERVATION, found
that my baggage had without my knowledge. been
sent on ahead. Had not hardened myself against
such treatment my fortitude would here have given
way. II was only when reflected where was and
In whose power that could summon up patience.
BREAKERS AHEAD
Tho constant suspicion that hcmmed inc round
mace me reflect that itwoud bc not only difficult to
forward my letters, but TO write them. or
course carried with night and day special cor
respondents kit OF toolshis writing materias---but
I'LL was safe from curious eyes darnd not get to
work On "a ploa, therefore, that WAS being pos-
oned by the cdors of the kitchen / had my tent
moved and, posting my interpreter sentry at tho
door. sot myself to write fearing that should never
again got the chance within the limits of Afuhans-
tan. l wrote till dawn, and was pretty nearly ex-
hunS fan tyha ar u..Iv 4
knew that an envoy had come from the Governor of
Mszar-i-shcrin. There were two OF them in fact;
one in iolt cap. gray stockings and embroidered
slippers; the othor trying 30 shield his head from
tho sun with ridicuously small and dandy turban,
his qninincdyed beard cleaning fiery red in its rays.
The horses OF their stan were richly caparisoned,
al tho saddles and brides bearing In ioman charac-
tiers tho marks OF different English regiments The
men were arni1 to tho teeth with carDes and ps-
tolls. They were long. thin, dark in complexion,
formidable in aspect, but withal orderly that