Staunton vindicator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1860-1896, 1879-09-19
New York Fashions.

bune.
New York Fashions.
MILLINERY-THE BIRD MANIA-MATERI-
ALs-CosTUMEs.
NEW YORK, Sept. 18th.
We are overtaken by mania for birds.
IT you buy the biggest bird you can find
and put it on your bonnet, you will dis
cover that you have not bought one as
large as Fashion permits. For what do
you say indeed to the idea of great birds, a
foot or more in length, having even the
two feet left dangling below. Imagine the
effect, and yet this is just what some
elegantes are going to wear. Peculiar bands
are finished with birds head, while one
foot hangs down from the centre. As
change, moreover, we find very long and
very broad feather bands, on which five or
six paroquets are perched in row. Now
these are not Bowery styles, but are
brought out by leading and exclusive mil
liners. True, I have taken extreme ex-
amples, but as Tweed in his day was
leading fact suggestive of a swarm of les
ser facts in the shape of frauds, SO the pro-
nounced specimens just quoted are lead
ing facts in the shape of birds of every de-
gree and kind down to the little humming
bird. AS another indication of the bird
mania, will add that small birds are
grouped, five or six with heads together
in the centre and bodies extending out
wards in a circle, while bands are con-
trived of say four birds, two on either side
with heads facing, other birds being
placed beyond with gradually diminishing
effect. Again have seen fall bonnet,
on the brim of which seven humming
birds were placed in row. Feather bands
are in distressing variety, and here we
find frequently the peacock's plnmage and
even the domestic chicken. Flowers are
in consequence almost driven out, yet as
| an evidence of possible liberty. have
| noticed one bonnet which was completely
! surrounded by continuous row of full
blown roses on the outer edge and no TO-
liage whatever. Where flower is seen,
Lit is usually a rose without foliage, yet,
satin foundation entirely covered with
leaves, except on one side, where large
spray of trumpet-shaped crimson velvet
flowers was ''spread." Mark the term
spread" But these two last examples
are exceptions. Bonnets are small, me-
dunn or large, having close brims, wide
brims, high or low prims. Crowns are
neither high nor low, neither round or
square, but sometimes they are conspicu-
ously broad and set very far back, leaving
| wide expanse of front brim. The lead
ing material is satin antique, a species of
satin, showing a short nap little like
plush. 1t is laid plainly on the frame, but
is also made into rosettes, folds, etc.
Stylish bonnets are of velvet laid on plain
ly, and felts in all colors are again intro
duced.; Uncut velvet which looks like
silk with an extremely large rep is a hand
some new material in millinery. Serge
silks employed in trimming are often
doubled for strings, which are sometimes
eight inches In width, and in general we
find strings of ribbon very wide. Old
ladies will remember ribbon of forty
years ago, having heavy rep with border
of indented satin and fine silk Sleopmga.
This is now called the Ottoman gros
grain. and is the latest novelty. New
ribbons are also satin on one side, and
gros grain on the other. Face trimmings
consist usually of a lining, either plain,
shirred or plated.
MATERIALS.
/ trust that no bachelors eye may rest
upon what am about to say in regard to
the new silks. They never were 80 rich,
varied, beautiful, and it must be added, so
costly. They actually run up to fifty dol
lars yard. For the benefit of any stray
bachelor who may unluckily see this, l
will 60 on to say, however, that often
times yard or two will be sufficient, since
it may be placed only in touches" upon
more moderate foundation of satin or vel
vet. This really will be a favorite idea
for winter costumes that of putting
small quantity of bright rich material on
something more conservative and unpre-
tentious. Thus therefore, importers al
most bewilder us by the beautiful India
cashmere, jacquard, brocaded, striped,
and plaided patterns, to say nothing of the
new changeables. yet in contrast they have
paid no small attention to plain cashmeres,
diagOnals, satines, Cancels hair-goods and
merinos in dark cloth shades.
COSTUMES.
Street dresses must be short, and as the
greater number of costumes worn by young
ladies at Saratoga and Newport hops, were
short, SO we may predict the same for win
Pter. Matrons and some young ladies will.
|lof course, prefer the elegance Of the train.
lsFor a short costume know nothing pref
liter than the Sybilla basque and the Anto-
I ai11R oYerskjrt, since the two go tastefully
together, and both embody all the latest
ideas. a very suitable polonaise for
walking costume is the Faalsstipa and an
other equally stylish is the Oresida, The
lsola polonaise is. charming model for
girls OF from ten to fourteen, but the
lAmina basque and Harfra overskirt may
also be recommended, New ideas in cos
TUNES are also brought forward in Ehricb's
ssFashion Quarterly" which deserves
special mention, since it contains the best
features of fashion magazine, price
current and catalogue. Its illustrations
of costumes, laces. trimmings, jewelry.
household articles, etc., are executed WITH
skill ank fidelity, while the accompanying
descriptions are remarkably clear'
The publishers. Messrs Enrich q Co.. OF
Eighth Avenue, announce their readiness
to supply every article described at its
quoted price. but the chief use OF the
ssOuarterly'' is to furnish ladies with a re-