The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-06-12
Harper's Bazaar.
New York Fashions.


have very little dressing and require very lit
tie starch when they are laundried; if made
stiff with starch they do not produce the eff
feet of being new and fresh. Ginghams and
mummy cloths have found most favor for such
dresses. The ginghams are in plaids, bars or
stripes of gay colors, else in the popular seer
sucker patterns of two shades of gray-blue and
the mummy cloths that are most liked have
quaint faded-out colors in stripes, with a
chintz pattern of palm leaves or flowers be-
tween. The entire dress is most often of one
fabric, instead of choosing plain goods for the
lower skirt. The mummy cloths are of the
thickness of satteens, but instead of having a
closely twilled lustrous surface, they are woven
roughly with raised spots and dots. The skirts
of these dresses are invariably short, as they
form a walking suit for summer wear and the
kilt skirt is used more often than plain round
skirt. The kilt skirt has a very deep yoke
coming far below the hips, and the killing is
added in very wide pleats, deeply folded but
quite far apart and held in place by single
row of tapes sewed underneath half way be-
tween the yoke and the foot of the dress.
These pleats hang easy and careless-looking,
siuu ~ ID uOb lAlClucu lildt bley Dc SUlU
and prim, consequently it is not difficult to
wash and iron them. With such skirt
short, bunched-up polonaise is worn in what is
called the Marqulse style. The fronts round
open just below the waist, and are caught up
in single cluster of pleats, or else bunch of
shirring on each side and in the middle
of the back. These pleats are below
the hips, leaving the plain Margue-
rite effect in the back, and there may be a
cluster of long loops of gay ribbon ON each side
where the punching begins. To edge this pol
onaise some of the fashionable cotton laces are
used or else ecru yak lace. In other cases knife
pleating Of the material is edged with heavy
italian Valenciennes lace that is very narrow.
Sometimes solid-colored Chamb6ry, either red,
pale blue, olive green, or 6cru is laid in knife
pleatings and put beneath the lace-edged frill,
and is only seen as facing, or when the frill
of the material is blown up. When the polo
naise is not used the waist is panier basque
punched up in the side seams and also in the
middle of the back. The over-skirt is then
panier round overskirt made with gored front
and side breadths, and full back caught up in
either three or five places. To be worn with
silk skirt of dark brown or of myrtle green or
else with the short black silk skirt that still
forms the foundation of many useful toilettes.
The expensive Scotch ginghams and the
lighter qualities of zephyr French gingham
are made up similarly, and trimmed with white
braid lace, or else a Scant ruffle of Hamburg
work in snowy open patterns. The American
glnghamS are made up in suits trimmed with
Smyrna lace, and sold for $40; q parasol to
match is furnished with suits sold for S12 The
oh or otn nona sold fN,.t
cents yard are perhaps the most satisfactory
of the domestic ginghams both in regard to
washing and wearing well. They are made up
with belted basque that is not lined, and with
a long apron overskirt. A bias band is stitched
on the basque and overskirt in preference 10
the knife-pleated frill. The only trimming is
the deep kilt hounce on the short lower skirt.
Cotton laces in snowy effective patterns are
much used for trimming muslin and cambria
dresses. What is called Byzantine point is liked
for such purposes, as it washes well and imi-
tates the rich designs of antique laces. The
Russian laces in braid-like patterns are still
popular, and cost from 20 cents to 60 cents
yard. Cluny lace is again much used for chill
drens pique and bunting dresses, and there is
great deal of fine Irish tatting for trimming
Point Raguse lace is used on bonnets as well
as dresses; this has the fine irregular meshes of
thread lace, with the pattern applied and held
by button-hole stitching; the designs are like
those of point applique lace. This lace and
nice dresses of white muslin or of the white
gauZe bunting The black French laces known
as limitations of thread laces are now given
what dealers call the thread finish, by weaving
them in irregular meSheS that can scarcely be
distinguished from those of handmade laces
These are to be laid in knife-pleatings, and the
designs are mostly with reference to this, having
a space between the wrought figures, which are
narrow and lengthwise The trimming widths
vary from one half to five inches and cost
from ~ IN az oaDtS a ward Rlapk Rratou loo
is shown in similar patterns; and is very styl-
ish for edging wells and neck-ties and for
trimming bonnets. 1t is however, very frail,
and the meshes are as slight as those of tulle,
so that it has not proved very useful or effec-
tive for dress trimmings Beaded laces, to
brighten up plain black chips or tulle bonnets,
cost from $3.50 upward. Both Jet and gold
beads are used. As the beads simply outline
the design, ladies can easily modernize laces
they have on hand by sewing on fine cut jet
beads.
Two extreme sizes are shown as cravats to be
worn in front of the neck, viz, the very small
muslin bow for morning and plain wear, and
the very large long jabOt in the Louis Quatorze
sty Q for more dressy occasions. The small
cravat is merely bow made of two rows of
pleated Breton lace attached to bit of India
muslin; these are sewed together to be round
like tassel, and are tightly strapped in the
middle with a muslin fold; when finished, the
ends lie HORIZONTALLY and the whole affair is
long jabot has Just such bow as this for be-
ginning, while below it the muslin and lace
fall in irregular shells to the waist line. No
two are alike, and they are so capriciously
fashioned that the most inexperienced can
scarcely go wrong in making them.
There are also very wide fan-shaped cravats,
made of two rows of pleated shells of lace with
lengthwise fan pleats of muslin between. A
cluster of narrow ribbon loops hangs from one
side; this is brocaded ribbon or else plain
satin For still drascU q
bunch of violets or of Marshal Neil roses,
or some other favorite flower is added. With
such cravats, collars or frills of lace or
lisse are worn. Collars are sometimes dis
pensed with, and an India muslin scarf is laid
in fine folds and passed around the neck; mar
row Breton lace edges this scarf at top and
| bottom, and the ends have wider lace pleated
across them. The soft null used for bows and
fchus is mostly imported from France, and
very closely initiates the real India muslin.
| 1t is very sheer with irregular threads like
linen and washes without thickening; it is two
| yards wide and costs from S5 cents to $3.50 a
| yard. The ecru null is similar to this but is
more deeply tinted.
Linen lawn neck ties, or those of India null
are made long enough to pass around the neck
| inside the linen collar-they are not considered
stylish if worn outSide-and the ends form a
| bow in front; hem and fanciful hem-stitch-
ing in blocks or bars are finished with the most
exquisite embroidery. For ladies in mourn
| ing on the sides and in rows across the bias
| ends. Jabots are also made of crepe lisse,
| either black or white, closely crimped and laid
| in shell-like rows.
One of the latest novelties is the shoulder
| cape in Carrick shape made of silk fringe. The
upper part is tied in meshes and fits like col
lar, while below this, grass fringe in thick
rows hangs to the waist line; price $40.
Instead of straight black lace scarfs to wea1
| around the neck in the street, there are
small fichus of black net edged with lace and
arranged like a iabot in front. These are alsc
| worn in the house, and ladies who find it be
coming add standing frill of black lace feI
| the neck and do not use white at all. The
| fancy seems confined to black or white fol
trimming the neck; almost the only colore6
neck-ties sold are those of polka-dotted satin
to wear with very plain costumes.
An eyewitness Of the recent terrible tornado
in Kansas says that the cloud from which the
wind and rain seemed to come was in the
l., ,f