Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-10-01

| Here again is second upright and aaring ruf.
ne OF fluted lace, which encircses the hair and
decorates il. Between this second ruflie and
| the first is a narrow strip OF velvet, setting
| close TO the head. The whole effect OF the
.marron" depends upon the boldneSs of the
| mare OF the fiuted lace and the correctness OF
me distance at which the raised front is set
from the fluffily curled front hair. AT the back
me halr must necessarily be high for this colt
Iure ana in puffS A pending loop and ends OF
the same velvet as the front garaishes the
back on the left side is a single flower with
out foliage laid fiat against the lace THIS bon
net should only be worn by tall persons
The ..chocelatiere" is simple imitation OF
PEASANTS cap. 1t Is hat with four indenta-
tions-one above the forehead. two over the
ears and another at the back The effects OF
loosely curling hair under these depresslons
or massed low at the back, is very good. Tue
broad ribbon, edged with lace on both Sides 10
form a narrow ruf1ie. The ornaments are a
buckle and small curled feather. Instead of the
ribbon, which should be plaid or striped a
broad fiat band Of feathers may be worn The
feather" bonnet is the natural successor of the
flower bonnet, and is really beautiful. The
finest are made OF the golden feathers taken
from the necks of Turpeyan pheaSants. id Ia d
closely one over another. The ornaments are
perhaps, humming birds, or butterflies AMI
beetles. Very soft and lovely bonnets are m ade
OF small natural ostrich tips and the pretties'
ornaments for these are English starling>
Among the novel toilette accessories are obi
looking pins. formed OF the heads of small
alligators, dried and polished and set with
diamond eyes. They are also used as peadiu
to collars of flexible gold, which enclrcle the
throat and on which Is the name OF the Mag
dalena river, from which they were taken.
more beautiful ornament for the hair Is the
real dragon fly from Peru, noun ed upon gold
wire In such way as to extend ITS wings and
body to their utmost length as well as sustain
them. Scarlet and black butterflies for the hair
are charming ornaments for brunetteS, and there
are neckl aces OF South American beetles larger
and lmore brilliant than any which have pre-
ceded them, and set in double rows without
pendants. AS contribution to tewelled orpa-
hay
season contributed some charming aigrettes
which would do credit TO artists in gems. The
design is an imitation Of a star-like wild Hover
for IL has radiating points which are beautiful
ly wrought OF diamonds and pearls intermin-
gled With native Peruvian gold wrought into
foliage of various shades. few closed buds
are formed of pearls, and back ground Is some
times formed Of small white feather, gold
tipped. OF course, 1t can only be worn upon
hair dressed high and by a tail person. With
these aigrettes come very pretty lace pins. made
by the same hands, and which consist of oars OF
native gold, wrought into t1lagree, and mount
| ed with flowers In different shades of yellow
and greenish gold AS successor to the little
| silk cap, or turban, we have an oriental head
| dress, consisting of broad fold o. rich bro
caded stuff embroidered with gold thread, and
| twisted into a sort of wrinkled, upright baud,
| which Is supposed to be Eastern In It's effect.
| Still more gorgeous affairs consist OF stralgh5
bands of red or yellow satin, or brocaded stuff,
| from the lower edge of which descend rows OF
| real oriental coins, or double rows of fringe
| made of fine gold thread. The hair with these
neaQufeSSeS is Drought SO low over the lore
| head as to meet the eyebrows, and the pendent
| decorations fall upon 1t instead upon the fore
| head.
! Cloth fashions and tailor suits In strong con-
| traSt with these striking and what are called
/ brilliant novelties, are the recent designs in
| cloth and what are called tailor suits for
| ladies' These, of course, are for out door wear
! exclusively, and are copied from Londop styles
| where west end tailorS have long made dress
speciality, and where, also, there are fashion,
| able houses devoted exclusively to cloth suits,
md rid inT Or HrIIrf N,
tunes. The great and meritoriouS features Of
tailor suits for ladies' consist, first OF the ser
| viceable character OF the material, the perfec-
! ton Of the cut the excellence OF the W0rkm IN
| ship and the absence OF supertluous patchtag
| and trimming. IL, in order to meet, as they
| suppose, wider demand, they should relin-
| QuiSh their traditions, resort to cut up styles
| AID fanciful trimmings, tailor suits would lose
| their distinction at once and fall back into
obscurity: This possibility is suggested by
| and Shammng, in some of the recent So-Caled
| coats and fancy jackets issued from good "tai-
| lor' houses. 1t seems such pity that nothing
can be kept pure and distinctive; that every
thing must be Smeared over with some sort OF
| wretched attempt at ornamentation, until
good, bad and indifferent all seems TO use
| vulgar phrase, Ito have been cooked in the
same pot" A good tailor made reding6t, or
what is called "great coat is of gray or mas
tic beaver, light, but warm, cut doub, breasted
| with side pockets and two capeS, or three col
| lars, one OF which forms small cape. Another
| style dispenses with the capeS and triple collar,
dLU auUS COildT anu CullS OF real
| fur. rich imitation seal skin used for this
| purpose is handsomer than the real article.
There are several styles Of tailorS m ade suits.
| One is a short princesse dress made With Killed
| skirt the killing inserted as fiounce at the
| back, as panels upon the side and tablier In
| front, and double breasted jacket, cut medium
| length, and with rolling (English) collar
| Another design consists Of a trimmed skirt, the
| front laid In smooth, straight folds above
| plated founce, and the back very slightly
| draped. TIE basque is curass with pockets
| and with without Stnnat cd a
| accompanies this suit also, or double cape.
| The felt walking hats, or cloth caps, to wear
With these dresses are finished with bands Of
ribbed galoon, and are quite as plain as those Of
| gentlemen, only they have some times heron'S
wing or the breast Of sea gull added for orna-
ment. Plain linen collar and cuffs, with dark
| red, or small Scotch Reck-tie are worn with
| these cloth dresses, the entire outfit being as
neat, trim, and compact as possible. the skirts
are Invariably cut short, that is walking length.
| UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE
| 1t would seem that all that luxury could de-
| wise had long since been exhausted upon under
| wear and Its delicate and dainty relation lin
to possess fascination of its own, and has
| peculiar charm for women whose tastes have
been refined up to the point OF minute appre
must certainly be enhancing In the well-shaped
| garments OF fine white linen and soft creamy
| silk, which are now made with such admirable
wave of lace, or finest needle-work, give added
softness and beauty. The forms are the low
| square, the high round, called because the
| shape Is rounded In front, but comes up over
| the shoulder and the "clasSic," which enfolds
the bust but holds the arm by mere thread,
to which is attached a rim Of lace. Yokes Of
| night dresses and the body OF the chemise to
| the waist is sometimes mere mass Of lace in
| sertions and pulling, with ruching cascade
| around the neck, round the arm, and down the
| front, in which small ornamental ends or bows
| OF ribbon are inserted, more or less or not at
all, according to the taste of the wearer. Some
ladies dislike color upon their underwear and
prefer to fasten their underwear garments
with small Jewelled buttons. SILK under
| vests and drawers for cold weather are con-
sidered Indispensable by such ladies as con-
slider them necessary at all. The scarlet are
| preferred and are, indeed, lovely wear.
The drawers are, Of course, made very short,
and are supplemented by others of cream
colored silk with lace rutfles. Some ladies are,
however, having this silk made up in the COM
bination yles, which gives drawers, chemise
and corset cover all In one, and thus saves the
| gathering about the waist and supernumerary
| garments. The straight, high necked shape Of
the " combination" when 1t first appeared, pre-
vented it from becoming popular among fash
| ionable women, but it is now very much I'M
proved 1t is well cut into the form, the bodice
Shaped, If required, into a pretty, low square,
| and the sleeves left out, or made long or short,
| at the option of the Wearer.
| For cold climates and for those who cannot
| afford the extreme ref1nements of fashion, or