The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-02-16
MARCH FASHIONS.
Gut and Color of Ladies' Spring
Walking Dresses.
THE HAT OF TIE SEASON.
Artistic Novelties for the En-
hancement Of Beauty.


the fact that out of of fashions the best fea-
lures have been taken and combined with what ex-
pcrience has shown to be the best methods of unit
ing the modern exisencies in regard TO clothing.
Street dresses must follow certain we'll defined rules
in order not TO be conspicuous attract undue at
tenton. The short woman her skirts
demi-traiued and nntrimmed The plump woman can
display her figure to advantage i'll princess dress,
and the medium. slender figure indulge i'll delicate
stripes and fabrics speckled dotted by figure
The large woman. tall il proportion. should never
anything but solid fabrics-black neutral in
tint. and unbroken by line dash--but she may
revel in trimmed skirts. provided they are draped
low. and by adding few loops of crimson or gold
satin ribbon to the folds at the back. where they
merge into the train, will shorten her perspective
and sufficiently reduce her line of length to make it
harmonic with the line of beauty
All the soft materials in cotton, wool or silk-and
the two have been greatly improved that they
are equal in appearance. and more sympathetic
to the touch than the ast-adapt themselves to the
graceful designs of the present day, designs which
ladies' ought prize and cling long possible.
for they will be fully appreciated until they per-
nit them to be superseded by something far less de-
sirable. and whose stealthy approaches may be
in the efforts to revive the panier the short apron
and the grotesque concets of Paris during the first
Consulate.
SPRING WALKING COSTUMES.
The street dress must be dark, short and unob-
trusive to make it suitable for walking in different
kinds of weather and in acrowded thoroughfare. The
present styles of adapt themselves to every
qurement of in and door life, and the best styles
can therefore be relied upon for certain degree of
permanence. The "Nathilde" walking skirt, for ex-
ample is more fashionable to-day than when first
issued and will be good for year to The
'Criselda walking skirt is another excellent design
for walking dresses, and either of these may be
used spring costumes with entire certainty that
they will not be likely at present to lose their popu
larity. With these skirts. which require but mod
crate amount of material and exactly adapted to
the all wool materials the pretty mixed fabrics of
silk and wool, may DO employed the ''Clementine"
Pamela" basques, the .Meanie or the '.Balsamo."
The 'Melanie" is pretty and youthful, very stylish
for combination OF silk and wool or wool and
velvet.
model and forms charming design for spring
dresses for street wear, i'll conjunction with long
jacket or tchu draped aud knotted at the back.
Ladies who wish it revive for house the
French waist with it's belt and simple skirt trimmed
with two or three narrow hounces and cut so as to
clear the ground This is really pretty dress, in
delicate striped checked ginghams for medium
sized slender women, and very convenient for
with aprons of silk muslin.
Charming spring suits are In preparation in gray
and fawn shades and small designs which quite
the surface. They made short with
draped poonaise deep, close basque and trimmed
skirt, the hounces being kt-plaitcd or triple box
plated and spaced between. The sleeves demi-
long and filled with fine plaitings OF crepe lisse.
and the garniturc consists of combination of blue
and wine coored ribbons arranged with more or less
profusion Nothing be more picturesque to
street costume than the straight nanteet knottcd i'll
front. to complete dress which is of solid color
| or OF two shades of the color with hat to
| match. The fashionable shade of the tor
these complete costumes is no longer the pale
| and fawn is also considered very distinguished.
|
for travelling and riding cloaks and are being made
in larger variety of materials than when first
duced In addition to the improved waterproof cloak
| ings i'll Gark gray navy blue, brown and black.
ulsters made in long haired mastc cloths of diff
terent shades and frred upon the inside that they
suitable for the coles weather, and as the warm
weather approaches will reappear in mohair alpaca
and in summer silk aud in all the gray shades Of
| linen.
More dressy garments partake still of the dolman
shape. although they cut very close to the form
| and remind one very much OF the visite' of twenty
years ago, of which they might be called graceful
modification UDess the garment Is cut in the same
material as the dress there is little variety in color
fabric. The soft cames hair cloth has superseded
the drap Il etc. and the trimming of rich passemen-
aud crimped fringe which falls from the upper
| and decidedly the most graceful OF textures
| MEXICAN OPERA CLOAK.
| A singular and beautiful opera cloak Just intro
| ducod initiates the Mexican cloak by both
! promenaders and horsemen. 1t passes the
| head with very wide coulisse, which, drawn up,
makes rich shirring about the throat. The chest
thus perfectly protected from the chill OF the corri
doris. and the shirring Itself being richly decorated
| with gold threads aud Indian beads. it serves to
| decorate still garment of which the deep
border is blaze OF gold thread and beaded embroid
| cry Below this embroidery falls u superb fringe,
enriched by pendant tags of scarlet-the cloak is
| yelow.whte-and OF gold thread terminating in
small bars of hlisrce- 1t is in circular FORM one
yard and half deep. and is very rich and effective.
pRLssY WRAPS FOR SPRING
Black inantles will be most used though light
drab beige colored wraps will be considered more
drcssy. The shapes similar to those of last
season, fitting at the back with three and
Lii. hat.
square Hungarian fashion, instead of dropping
pointed wings like dolmans. These OF medium
length, covering the tournure and hips and
trimmed with with three braided points down
the back. A great deal Of French lace will be used
cloth will be fashionable stitched edges and SNOWY
buttons being the only trimming The small
lcLus of embroidered black cashmere last
spring again largely imported.
novelty in trimming consists of painted buttons
for dresses of black white silk. satin velvet
These painted i'll sets by competent artists each
button differing from the others. IN this only
skill but attention to proportion is necessary 1T
would be absurd tor tiny bird to be associated with
a large butterfly. Each button must properly
company the others. and sot of sixty buttons, of
which no one resembles the othor and all alike are
wull executed, is decided Improvement to dress
Some OF these designs are intended to initiate the
fne mosacs.
There never was u time when the neck was dressed
in so many charming ways. A coat bodice, for
ample will be turned back from the front. and tho
neck filled in with soft plaitnes of crepe lsse, in
which flowers always nestle. THIS decoration of
flowers has brought back the fashion OF wearing
flowers the hair. they confined to full
dress. Lace bows and jabots also decorated with
roses which sometimes added loops of pearls.
The double ncckerchicts OF silk Grape still
used but gathered to the lett side and fastened
with long spray of roses carnations. The
styles OF soft null, slightly gathered and bor-
derud with lace. These surround a high square
neck and tall in square tabs in front carried i'll
the fashion N tchu 10 the waist There Is nothing
stifi and cutonal in the arrangement of these
accessories; they must appear graceful. easy and
natural
| NOVELTIES
Lace shoes OF SATIN which appears TO
be laco. The designs OF applique aud guipure
carefully initiated and supcrposcd 10 all appearance
on the main fabric. The shoe is finished WITH the
smallest heel yea worn. IL Is so narrow and 50 high
that IL requires practice TO venture upon II. Some
designs these shoes initiate velvet with everything
| lace. some ladies' having worn shoes upon which
set lace the fancy taken up. and hence this
really beautiful shoe.
| cold silk tissue Is new fabric extremely elegant.