New Ulm weekly review. [volume] (New Ulm, Minn.) 1878-1892, 1879-05-28
Spring 1rll!lll|l,ssry.

The first importation Of spring bon
nets consists Of soft English straws, fno
smooth chips, and rough chips, IN ivory
white, beige brown, gray and black.
The shapes are quite large, with ample
square crown and broad brim that
hares widely above the forehead, but
clings closely 10 the sides. These are
similar to the Clarisae HarIowe shapes
that were introduced last year for SUM
merry gypsy like bonnets, and have been
repeated for very dressy hats during
the winter. The small cottage and
Alsatian shapes that are now 50 uni
versally worn do not appear in these
earliest importations, and the rumor is
that they will be laid aside as entirely
too small for summer use; however,
they are 50 neat and becoming, and are
SO easily made and trimmed at home,
that ladies will be loath to give them
up. The new large shapes are to have
bows with long tapping loops, strings
that pass across the top and tie the
sides down closely to the ears, and
bouquets of flowers put in most pr0mi-
nent places, as single cluster inside
the front, and another outside on the
top or back Of the crown. These bou-
quets will be of mixed flowers, with
long stems and very little foliage.
English shapes Of dozen different
varieties win be used for the round
hats that are worn in the city streets,
while those for outrof-town have wider
brims that are turned up in irregular
fashion, sometimes directly above the
forehead, or else one-han the brim is
turned upward on the left side. or it
may be only quarter between the
front and side 10 rolled. The Derby
and Oxford hats with narrow rolled
brims or else fatty turned up sides are
very largely imported. There are also
turbans Of the pretty shapes worn last
summer, while novelty is the Da Vinci,
like the cap with wide rolled brim and
bell crown seen in pictures!of Leonardo
da Virei. Jaunty little jockey caps of
straw are shown for children-for boys
and girls alike. The deep wine-t tinted
red shades are to be as much used for
trimming these hats as navy blue has
long been. A yellowish-white braid
jockey cap is very pretty, with q band
Of wine-red gros grain ribbon, wide
binding of the same around the visor
and the back, and q raveled ribbon
rosette to match directly on top of the
crown. Blue, hunters green, seal
brown, and black trimmings are used
in the same way. Other jockeys are of
alternate rows Of braid in blue, brown,
olive, red, or black, with white. For
larger girls are pretty little hats with
brims dropping on the sides in what 10
called the Lotus shape. Sailor shapes
are still shown for misses and children.
The names of spring colors supplied
in French invoices are very suggestive.
The new blues are called faience blue
and Sevres blue, comprising many pale
and dark shades of pure tone, while
the new iceberg blue may be classed
with green as well; there are also tur-
quoise, peacock and sapphire blues that
have q great deal Of green in them.
The new green is called roseau Greedy.
and is the pale gray-green seen in reeds
and water-grasses. The white used Is
ivory, and the yellow and brown shades
are tea-rose, maize, old gold, beige and
marion or chestnut color. There is q
great deal of argent, or oliver gray,
which is contrasted with other colors.
Grenat. nacarat and cardinal reds will
be used in most combinations.
The materials to be used BY milliners
for crown and for trimmings cut from
the piece are pekin gauzes, iardiniere
silks and satins Of light quality. The
pekin gauzes have narrow basket
woven gauze stripes, alternating with
repped, satin or brocaded stripes; other
gauzes have open blocks an inch
square in lace-like patterns with closer
woven blocks between. These gauzes
come in ivory white, Sevres blue,
roseau and all the new shades of one
color, and also in contrasting stripes.
Velvetstriped gauzes and checks Of
velvet on galze are also shown; some
times the velvet is in two Scotch colOrs,
such as bars of blue and green velvet
on black gauze; these will trim black
very effectively; the velvet stripes vary
from the merest pencil line to inch
wide stripes. Some of the richest
gauzes have brocaded stripes. The
jardiniere silks for bonnet crowns have
tiny flowers brocaded on them. The
satins are as soft as foulard, and have
white tracery that resembles lace or
embroidery. Sevres blue satin with
ivory lace-like designs is especially
handsome.
Breton lace will be used a. trim
ming on bonnets made up of the mate
rails just described; it will be used in
cream white, ivory, and the bleached
shades now in vogue IS plaitings for
the back Of the crown, as Alsacian
rosettes for the top, and as an edging
for tulle strings. -Harper's Razar.