Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1879-10-09

That never bids him pause nor stay;
He clutching tight his pocketbook,
Andprecious glad to get away.
" Descending might have done with tact,
II not too soon betrayed" says she:
"How lucky that to sober fact
drought her ere too late" saysh
Fashions of the Season.
Among the new dress goods in silk
and wool mixtures are found some
novelties in the form of welted striped
goods, the stripes running across, not
lengthwise the goods, producing cor
duroy effect; and upon this surface,
whose ground is either gendarme blue,
bronze, plum, dark green. brown, or
black, bright silk threads produce a
howercd design in jardiniere effects. the
figures being for the most part small set
designs. This stuff il intended for the
paniers, back drapcries, cuffs, revers.
and collars of costumes whose under
skirts, sleeves. and minor parts are COM
posed Of self-Colored, all wool, weltcd
striped goods Of tints and shades CORE
. spending with the grounds of the figured
goods. In the plain goods intended for
the underskirts the welted stripes are
also crosswise the goods.
Other fancy silk and wool mixtures
have narrow alternate stripes OF plain
wool and figured silk, the silk stripes in
small bright arahesque or aTmuTc de-
signs. Other striped cloths have parti-
colored grounds of bronze, French gray.
cherry, garnet, peacock. gendarme and
navy blues. and shades of stone and
drCi0tse or slate color.
Plaid jacquard is n genuine novelty,
the large plaids being produced in
variety Of novel and striking designs
and sharply contrasting colors woven in
n jacquard loom. and, while they imi-
tate the size and colors of tartans. are
very unlike them. Broken blocks,
squares, and dashes of color are pro
duced in the midst of the wool mixtures
by bright threads of silk thrown in, the
predominant tints being old gold, sap
phire and turquoise blues, cherry and
other shades Of red, and bright shades Of
green on dark grounds.
In plain all-wool goods, in addition 20
the camefs hair goods, cloths, nar nels
and cashmeres of last winter. we are
shown a new material called t0ls dc
sdnqiier This is plain woven, but has
rough surface, and resembles bunting
made su ficiently heavy to serve for warm
winter dresses.
The ready made suits, thousands of
which are sold every season and sent all
over the world, are shown this fall in
dark cloth colors in the new shades of
amaranth. Rembrandt green. gendarme
or ducks breast and navy blues, dhuphin
and dark French grays. Burgoyne and
golden browns and black. with Rarni-
tures and parts Of the costumes OF trim
ming satins. plain. plaided or striped.
silk plush. jacquard corduroys or weltcd
stripes, wide wooden braids and Scotch
and Jacquard plaids, or other trimming
goods Of silk and wool mixtures similar
20 those described above.
The greater part Of these suits are
made up in the form of n coat basque.
with pointed waistcoat in front and n
poltilion back. curved shorter on the
hips. When the basque has not a waist
coat 1t il giveua stnmacher like n pIas-
tron. which il pointed below the waist.
and consists of two revers sewed together
down the middle, extending from the
neck down and tapeTing gradually na--
rover to the waist. Under this plastron
waistcoat or stomacher the BASQUE IL
fastened with small flat buttons. The
plastron may he either of p,ain cloth or
satin, or il may he covered with parallel
lines Of zi0zag braid set on crosswise in
points. 7 , position backs are some
times pointed, but oftPner square. and are
given fiat box -plaits beaded with fancy
buttons. The skirts are short. trimmed
with the usual founce or flounces. in the
usual variety Of kilt, knife blade and box
plaitings. Paniers appear on many of
these skirts or searfs arranged 10 produce
panier effects. Wide bells arc seen on
many Of the basques, beginning IN the
scam under the arms and fastening in
front. Other basgues are half double
breasted. and others again have surplice
plaiiscr athers in front; and blouse ef-
tecss are also popular in basques, fasten-
Ing down with three-inch wide belts. to
which the side pocket Il attached. The
buttons on the waistcoats are smaller
than those on other parts OF the costume.
Few outside pockets are seen, but some
times long square or pear-shaped ap-
pendage of this kind IL attached TO the
lower edge Of basque. and made very
effective with trimmings. Plaid silks
and silk plush of the same shade as the
wool material Of the dress, and self
eolored jacquard corduroys. also of the
shade Of the wo0len stuff. are used for
trimming cashmeres. toiie des Iades,
eamefs I.sis ana .oiie dc saHgiier cos
TUNES. These rtssdy-made suits range in
price all the way from $40 20 S7s and
eiOO.
Large and small bonnets. the first very
.arge and the second very small, are seen
among the importstions Of millinery
goods. The large bonnets are eitner
pokea will. close sides. dircctoire bon-
acts with square crowns nnd faring
brims, or Rsbagas baunets that frame
the face lie halo. The small bonnets