The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1879-12-03
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
New York Fashions.

FOR THE FAIR SEX.
New York Fashions.
A decided change in styles is noticed
this season. Where, last fall and
winter, bouffant draperies were avoided
as exceedingly unbecoming and the thin
and slim and fiat effects were sought for,
we now discover gathered, bunched-up
paniers, fully draped basques, plain pet
ticoats and pillows of puffs at the hips,
short skirts with shirred fronts and long
loops of rich material. The skirts are
even shorter than those of last winter,
and neat boot is supposed to belong to
the costume, besides one of the bags of
"old times" which hangs from the
wrist, with flowers embroidered or
painted and monogram at one side.
These bags arc pretty adjunct to the
oilet. They are made mostly of black
satin, lined with old gold, satin, or
whatever corresponds with the suit,
with wide ruffle at the top. gathered
with silk or gilt cord and finished with
long black silk tassel. Occasionally
one appears-belonging originally to
some dainty ndmother-wrough in
fnely-cut jet and floral designs in old
gold and beads. These are rare
and curious, and at once suggest
"old fnery." Illuminated materials
are used on nearly all suits as
trimming for plain or mixed goods.
The colors are not decided enough to de-
scribe except as combinations of har-
monious effects. The Persian and Japan
ese designs are all repeated this season,
and enter into cloth and velvet, show
ing prismatic clouds and gray.green
grounds, olive predominating. Indeed,
the composition of effect this season has
been carried to the extreme, 80 that even
the new customs are indescribable. They
are composed of multitude of colors
and multiplication of material of diff
ferent texture and character. Melanges,
or mixed goods. come now in all wool,
as we'll as in silk, and present a raised
surface resembling demasse, These are
a repetition of the designs of summer.
The camel's hair melange is suited to
everyday costumes, and show Turkey
and Persian patterns. Mourning pat
terms in camel's hair are particularly
pretty, showing gray waves of silk on
the black grounds. The pekin stripes
and ,jardiniere tancies enter into every
material in fact, and are simply the
elaborate styles that appeared early in
the spring transferred into winter goods.
The Scotch plaids are always acceptable
and young ladies, as well as children,
are seen attiIed in these and serviceable
suits. The India shawl effects in CASH
mere are the novelties ofthe day, ,and meet
q ready sale. They present the palm
leaf, surrounded or intermingled with
Oriental designs, and are very hand
some. Velours, also, is presented rs a
novelty, and looks like brocaded vel
vet. They resemble plush, as the sur
face presents nap, and makes rich
and durable costume for the street: In
silks, the patterns are varied and bold.
as, also, quiet and unpretentious: The
gay reds and yellows contrast their pop
pies and sunfowers amid dark green
leaves. Four or five colors are noticed
on nearl y all the new fabrics, and the
tones and tints of each of these may be
seen in delicate waves, like the reflected
and high lights of a painting, giving ef--
feet to the flower which is wrought
above. Grecian work or patterns form
odd backgrounds for delicate surfaces.
Armoure silk has narrow stripes of
satin and interminglings of lace-like or
misty designs.
For street wear' the Derby hats are al
most universally adopted by young
ladies, and are worn without garniture
of any kind by many, while others are
trimmed with 4 long ostrich plume,
starting from beneath a full rosettc of
satin ribbon placed high on the side OF
the crown. Riding hats with square
crowns and pretty brims, curving in
front, are also plain and severe.
or ornamented in the same way.
The beaver hats show very wide brims,
and have long and hairy surfaces. These
wide fiaring edges show off handsome
feather well, and seem great favorites
with young girls. They are worn far
back on the head, also, and require q
decidedly pretty face be"eath, as they
are trying top-knots and unbecoming to
very many. The felts are finer this sea-
son than ever before, and the beavers
coarser. Whole birds are seen on the
close little bonnets, which follow the
cottage shapes of a year ago, and some
heads are crowned with green parrots
or dove.colored pigeons that repose on
the top of the hat and spread their wings
over the side. Birds are employed uni
versally, and on some of the imported
bonnets are grouped wings of several
species. with brilliant green and gold
contrasts against the soft, gray plumage
of the dove. and wing of the male
black bird, sh owing a vivid scarlet tip.
Soft silk serge is employed in trimming,
and the bonnets are resplendent with
bugles and feathers tipped with jet. The
mania for bead trimming has already
been carried to all lengths. and ladies
are seen on the promenades covered with
bugles. The eye is almost weary with
the display, though the passementeries,
fringes and hat-covers are elegant and
costly. Antique satin is often seen
covering ene-half of the bonnet-crown
and velvet the other half. 1t is broug mt
out in all the popular shades. The
pekin velvets and silks, too, are used
largely, and the old style changeable
silks are brought forward rs novelties.
Wide strings are worn, tied at one side.
These are double-faced. The soft silk
strings are usually edged with lace.
The cashmere ribbons in harmony with
shawl designs in dress goods are very
popular, but even these are spangled
profusely with colored beads. Gilt
bands of braid are ornamented with
bronze bugs and gemmed insects, which
apparently move in mournful procession
round the crown. These are expensive
devices, but novel. The shaded feathers
of ostrich plumes are in demand. Some
times these are held in the beak of a
bird, as the latter is often as large rs the
hat or bonnet itself. The two feet, or
claws, are allowed in such cases to trail
over the sides or back, and are utilized
to hold the veil down or clasp a silken
crush of trimming. Paroquets are worn
much, and are sometimes crowned with
added pompons of smaller birds heads.
The bands for hats are shown entirely Of
wings also, and all kinds of fancy ar
rangements.
News and Notes for Women.
A branch of the Royal School of Art
Necdlework has been openedat Glasgow.
A beautiful young Austrian travelled
all the way from Vienna to Fort Worth,
Texas, to marry her sweetheart.
Mrs. Tiburtius, wife of the surgeon
general of Germany, is a leading dentist
OF Berlin and attends the royal family.
A Philadelphia bride recently wore a