Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1879-05-29
Al AbnmI AIrnaI AuIin.

mud and dust and to show the pretty
| boots which are the order Of the day.
/ The usual width Of "A short skirt Mt the
! bottom is two and half wards: very
! tall ladies have them quarter Of ward
/ widcr-very short ladies a- much mar
/ rover than this. For plain walking
[ dresses the usual finish 10 the lower skirt
Is "A killed founcc from eight 10 twelve
| inches deep. Above this the tunic il
/ draped in various ways 30 many indeed
I that IL il difficult 10 specify any particu-
/ lar style as the leading fashion. Per
haps the preference j. FOR tunics distinct
] in front and gathered in easy horizontal
/ folds. The backs are 81. aight and looped
in every conceivable way. but the ends
are almost invariably square. The pan
/ nicr Is out in full force. but IL j. formed.
not by crinoline underneath. but by full
soft drapcry Of the dress itself One
4 stylish model has n single deep full puff
| hanging at the back; another has Two
/ puils, one on each hip, and yet another
I has three pulls, one above the other.
I directly behind. III the fullne-s Of the
l lower skirt is drawn 10 the back by
means OF an elastic tape run in a casing
across the back brcadths half a ward
[ from the foot Of the skirt. Fichu wraps
ARE much worn with walking suits, rs
well rs with carriagc-drc-scs. but the
I preference Is for the doublc-brcasted
English jacket. or still more for the
Louis Nv. Jacket. opening 10 display
the long vest Of striped or procadcd ma
icrinl below it, Very often the vest Is Of
plain silk or satin. The Incroyablc coat
Is much liked. both for walking suits
and for full dress toilets. This is double
breasted. fastened with four or five but
a
above and below. Very often the Jacket
has rcycrz both nj bottom and top.
These may be easily made by facing the
fronts and turning them back. when the
jacket need not be cut unless desired.
There are many new and pretty skirt
trimmings. many Of which may bc cast
Is made AT home. Newest Of these j. the
shirred plating. For this n straight
ilouncc Is cut twelve inches deep and
three times the length Of the skirts
breadth. II j. laid in inch-widc kilt
plaits. and each plait j. stitched (likc a
tuck. indeed, more than plait) 10 with
in q fingers length Ai the bottom. where
they are pressed .lAtly. The tucks. or
plaiis. above this are shirred on the edge
by a single row of fine hand gathering.
and this draws the shiTTinH up into q
succession Of scaniily pufioi plaits The
houncc is then stitched on an inch from
the top. and again Ut the head Of the
plain plating at the bottom. ShirTnd
plaiting- are also made In clusters. three
in a cluster. and a space between. An
Other stylish iiuuncr i the fan plating.
This j. cut straight also 30 the depth Re-
quiTcd and then plated in clusters Of
five plaiis. piled one on another. The
plaits are pressed and stitched across
near thc top. and again few inches from
the bottom. so that the lower part spreads
out in succession Of open fans. Very
much liked. hut scarcely new. Is the Van
dykcd ilounce with only fullncSs enough
10 allow II to sd smoothly around the
skirt over fan plating. the fans Of
which come in the open spaces between
the Nandykcs. Another popular head
ing for fiounCcs is a shell trimming form
ed Of a strip Of the dress material pipcd
on both edges and box plated into triple
plaits Between the box -plaits the edges
of the band are caught together 10 form
The shell. Scarf drapcrics are much
worn both on short and long dresses
For walking dresses they are still folded
in upturned plaits across the front and
knoi,ed behind. Some tunics are slit
straight up through the middle Of the
front breadth for from six inches to half
n yard. The sides Of the openings are
then faced and turned back in rcvprs. 4
bow is placed ~ the apex of the tTiangu
lar opening thus formed. and the plating
in front extends high enough 10 cover all
that part Of the lower skirt disclosed by
the opening.
Perpendicular trimmings arc very FASH
ionahle Long revcrs. extending from
the belt to the edge OF the overskirt. or
where the dress is in one to the trimming
at the foot, appear on many suits. A
great deal of fine shirring Is used, espe-
Cially on thin dresses. Shirrcd plastrons
Of silk or satin are favorite trimmings for
black grenadines. The shirring Is usual
Is done In Clustcrr-inch wide bands of
horizontal shirring twelve inches apart.
from the top TO the bottom. drawing the
plastron into long fat puffs. A great
deal Of pekin Is used. All material in
alternate raised and fiat stripes is known
as Pckin. whether Il he velvet. satin. silk.
wool or cotton; or. as is often the case.
mixed fabric. This forms bands, revers.
folds, vests. etc. upon solid-colorcd ma
terials. Usually the Pekin matches the
dress In tint-violent contrasts having
lost favor. The fancy just now is to use
IL in cross-cut bands. straight across the
goods, ms rufiles are cut. The edges of
from three 10 eight inches deep--a fash
ion which affords an easy method Of
lengthening any bodice left over and un-
fashionabiy short. A stylish suit noticed
recently had two folds. one of plain satin
the other of satin Pckin edging the basque
as far as the back side-scams; then
they were lcft loose and extended 20 form
asknot with long ends rather low on the
dress. Above this the back of the
basque was finished with loops of satin,
forming double fringe. Fcs,ooned
iiounces are much used on the front and
side Of trained skirts. They form from
three to five curves, are cut on the bias
and edged top and bottom with lace,
kniie-plaiting. or fold of silk or satin.
Brocnde Is much used for trimming hand
some silks. and IL put on in the same
way as the pekin.
A great many pretty suits are made Of