The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-05-29
Harper's Bazaar.
New York Fashions.

| 1NSW L oIh T dSulOuS.
| While very gay colors are again fashionable
in costumes for the street and for day wear, it
| is subject of remark that white and black
toilettes predominant in the evening, when full
| dress is worn. Young ladies wear dresses of
| soft cream white India muslin, or else of ba-
tiste, which is purer white, and has more dress
ing than India goods; or else they choose white
barege, or the new fabric called nuns CLOTH
which is all wool, woven irregularly like French
bunting, and as transparent as gauze. For In
! dia muslin and batiste, embroidery and lace
are the trimmings, with many loops and pam
1 Ter sash of brocade or satin ribbon These
dresses are usually made up over white silk, or
| perhaps satin, and sometimes colored silk is
| used for foundation. White foulard dresses
have shirred full fronts to the waist and on the
over-skirt, with light frills of Valenciennes
Malines, or Breton lace. The black dresses so
much used in the evening by older ladies have
usually satin for foundation, as its lustre is
needed to brighten the effect, and white lace is
again in favor for trimming black. Thus the
vest and the three front gored breadths will be
nearly covered with lace in wide f1ounces or else
in lengthwise panels or shawl will be draped
as an apron. Stripes Of black satin on white
satin are also used for vests and petticoat
breadths the flowing train is then black SATIN
and the panier scarf of the stripes begins in
front, encircles the hips, and forms revers on
the train Flowers are not much used either
on Dlack or white dresses, except in the cor
sage bouquet, that has grown in its dimensions
until it almost covers the front of the dress
about the waist. If artificial flowers are used
smaller bouquet is on each elbow sleeve, and
a series OF bouquets extends down the sides and
front of the skirt.
Two styles of round hats imported from Lon
don have found favor with young ladies' The
first is the English turban with a broad, square
low crown and rolled close brim. This is liked
in the fashionable rough straws, but is also
shown in chip. 1t is trimmed with gay soft
scarf, very full, and closely wound around the
crown. A bow or knot on one side, and wings
OF birds are stuck in the scarf; sometimes there
are as many as six small wings. The brim has
band of bias velvet-not wide enough to con-
ceal all the straw-set plainly around it, with
perhaps bow on the right side. These hats
ars worn quite far back and frame the face like
halo. They are sometimes called the bonnet
| turban.
| The other English round hat has straight
| wide brim, and half-high square crown trimmed
with the nodding cluster of ostrich tips known
as the Prince of Wales feathers. When wire
is put in the edge of this wide brim it is rolled
| slightly up all around if the wearer likes; a
plain smooth velvet facing is on the brim The
| trimming is a scarf of plaid foulard in bandana
colors, or else satin either plain, polka-dotted,
| or striped. The feathers are at the back, or
| else quite far back on the left side, nodding
| forward on the crown.
| The standing collar around the neck of a
| dress is now covered with shirring to match the
other trimmings. The drawing-strings pass
around the collar, not up and down upon it.
Surplice effects given by shirred pieces down
| the front are greatly in favor for dress waists
Striped, plaid, or polka-dotted silk or satin is
used for this purpose; thus an almond-colored
basque and overskirt is worn with fullshirred
front of Scotch plaid silk, and the kilt skirt is
also,of the gay plaid. To trim waists in this
| way take two pieces lengthwise of the goods
| each fourth of yard wide, and long enough
to reach from the shoulder-seam to the end Of
| the basque front. Double the upper end to
| make ruff1e an inch wide, and Shir it across
| in bunch of five or six rows, drawing it into
| half its width; then make two similar clusters
| of shirring at the waist line, drawing them
much narrower than at the top to give taper
ing effect: This is prettiest in a soft trimming
| dation lawn. Sometimes broad belt passes
| over it at the waist and the part below the
belt hangs in two loops like great Alsacian
bow, or else forms a sash. Some dresses have
| more full blouse effect given them by cover
ing the whole space from the front of the neck
| down with single breadth of the striped or
| plaid silk. The checked Panama cloths so
much used by young ladies for spring suits are
SO thin and pliable that the surplice drapery is
made of the cloth, merely piped on the edges
| with olive. maroon and seal hroxvp oi1lr
Some of the polonaises sent out by Worth
| have the vest sewed in the garment, but sepa-
rated Just below the waist, and the ends hang
ing and tied with ribbon loops, or else orna-
ends are also on the sides of skirts. What is
called the Marquise polonaise is much used for
thin dresses This rounds in 'front.' and forms
panier folds on the hips like those of the Marie
Antoinette polonaise, but the edges are very
| much trimmed with frills, or lace, or fringe An
other fancy in new polonaises is that of cutting
off the two middle back forms to make a point
Just below the waist, and gathering the bouffant
full skirt to the pointed waist. Sash drapery be-
| ginning at the side seams and dropping low on
| the tournure is another fashion, while Just the
| reverse of this is seen in other garments where
| all the long sash is confined to the 'front.' Black
and white plaid sashes are worn with black
dresses. They are draped under the back of
| the basque with long broad loops and fringed
ends showing. There are also belts of the silk
| or satin of the dress trimming, from which
hang straight down behind two broad flat looms
and two sash ends. The sashes that have been
laid aside for many years are seen again, and
the over-dresses of last season are all being re-
modelled by merely making the long low drap-
| cries shorter and higher.
White flannel suits are made for ladies to
wear in midsummer at the seaside They have
| kilt skirts suspended from narrow yoke, an d
| the pleats are bordered near the bottom with
gay bandana plaid cut in a bias band. The
| Over-skirt has very short scarf-like apron
with long draped back, and is also bordered
with plaid. The basque is caught up in the
handkerchief pieces of the plaid are arranged
like sash bow in the back and around the
neck.
What are called cheese-cloth suits are dresses
made of unbleached muslin and trimmed with
rows of woolen skirt braid, or else bias red and
yellow plaids in the handkerchief patterns.
The vests, lengthwise pleatings, paniers, and
other stylish fancies are seen in these dresses
Charming caps of muslin to be worn at break
fast have mob crowns bordered with scant ruff
fes that are scalfoped neatly, and cost only 80
cents to $l 20. Bows of light blue, cream, car
dlnal, or else black ribbon are set in front.
The newest breakfast sacques have inser tions
OF Breton lace down the front between rows of
tucks, and are trimmed around the collar,
sleeves, and bottom with gathered or pleated
Breton lace. Similar garments are shown in
twiled foulard silk of light colors or black, and
will be worn with skirts of white muslin or of
| DldCk SILK. FOR warmer SacqueS hne black
flannel is used, and is trimmed with heavy
white torchon lace.
Thomas H. Taylor one of John Browns
followers in his Harper Ferry raid, has lust
been discharged from Monroe county, NY,
Jail, where he had been confined for two
months, on charge of embezzling his sisters
money. Taylor is now 65 years old, and
served in the Union army during the war,
being-twice taken prisoner, and spending some
time In Libby prison. His mind has been
weak OF late years, and the action which
caused his arrest is credited to this fact
Vennor has been heard from. He predicts
that summer, up to the middle of July at
least, will give abundance of rain with
temperature below the average. August,
September and October, says Vennor, will be
the fairest months