Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-04-07
NOTES ON THE WAY.
vEOicrn Jerusalem.
February, 1879.

long travel. or the emotional religious enthusi-
asst. suppose Jerusalem is an exceedingly in
teresting and insiring place to visit; but to an
ordinary matter-of-fact traveller, who sees
things as they are and not as they might have
been or might be- it is about as forlorn and de-
pressing spot as can easily be found. 1t Is
small, il-built, and dirty to the last degree. II
is literally without beauty or dignity Of any
kind. There is no industry whatever carried
on, except the manufacture In small way OF
minor articles from olive wood, while the
bazaars are few in number and Insignificant
and monotonous in character. There is moth
ing picturesque in the costume nor attractive
In the life and habits of the people. There ar,
no gardens Or yards Neither water nor tree,
nor grass are to be seen anywhere; aud how
can any place be attractive to the eye, would
like to know, without at least some Of these at
tributes? Modern Jerusalem may be described
briefly and truthfully, In fact as disappointing
In the aggregate and disgusting in detail.
The locality is rich in historical material, it Is
true, and associations Of the most sacred Char
acter may be said to cluster about it like the
luxuriant vine which clothes the ruins of a
magnificent temple; but the scenes OF events of
the most mOmentOus consequence are grouped
together In such an Incredibly narrow field
occurrence are pointed out with such unblushing
dogmatic assurance, that one almost loses faith
In the events themselves, as well as respect for
those who so glibly recite the doubtful ira
dltt0ns regarding their locations For example
remember the night OF my arrival in Jerusa-
lem was shown from my chamber window the
pool DYING just beneath) In which Bathsheba
was bathing when she excited the unholy de-
siIes of David, standing in his tower Just
around the corner. Yet on subsequent inquiry
and examination, not the slightest evidence
could be adductd to show that either of the
places were what they were claimed to be. On
the other hand all the circumstances and prob
abilities were against the theory so confidently
SET up; SO 1t was nearly every where, and In
ever happened In or about the city that the
precise spot where 1t took place cannot be
pointed out at once and beyond the possibility
od ah ana THIS notWithsandiag the
and most II not all Of its landmarks destroyed
over and over again since many OF the leading
events In ITS history transpired. But perhaps
and the only one which need be cited, is the
reputed location OF the crucifixion and tomb of
the Savior. situated well within the walls OF
even conjecture with satisfaction where the
original walls of Jerusalem stood; but in view
OF the conformation OF the ground upon which
the city is built, and which forb!ds the idea
tnaC 1t could ever have been extended on at
least three sides OF It's present limits either the
alleged site Of the crucifiXion and entombment
must be rejected or the immense population
claimed for the city at their date must be given
up. No mind capable of reasoning can, it
seems TO me, entertain or reconcile both prop
OsitlOnS.
WHEREIN JERUSALEM Is UNATTRACTIvE.
have said there Is nothing dignified or at
tractive In the appearance OF the city, seen
from any point OF view, and this statement /
wish to emphasize. The buildings, public and
private, are all built Of stone, and they are
among those intended for private use whether
for dwellings, or business purposes there Is no
pretension whatever to architectural style or
taste, neither has anything been accomplished
In that direction by accident. Nor are the In
teriors OF dwelling or business houses. IL they
can De said to be separate, any more attractive
walls, the partitions and the roofs are thick
mas ses OF stone; the floors and ceilings of the
roc ms are OF the same material; the window
are few and small; and the facilities for heating
are rare and inadequate, SO that the moment
one enters one of the rooms he feels as though
ne had been 1mmured in the damp, Chilly and
cheerless vaults of prison.
ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
The only public buildings in the city worth
speaking OF at all are the churches, of one kind
and another; and as rule these are quite as
unimposing relatively as the private houses.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the grea
central point of interest in the city, is neithe
impressive in size nor fine in STYLE Its exterior
is almost entirely hidden from view by the mis-
eraDle structures surrounding 1t on every side,
while It's interior Is so divided in its elevations,
so cut up into chapels and sub-sections, and So
cluttered up with tawdry fittings OF one kind
and another as to entirely destroy whatever of
grace OF style and harmony of proportions it
may once have possessed. The much talked-Of
Mosque OF Omar, which occupies the site OF Solo
mons Temple, and claims to have Jacobs sacri-
fcial stone within its walls, has magnificent
f1De ornamentatiOn, both inside and out; but the
building as whole is not extensive in scale nor
grand or pleasing In design. Besides, there is
able In many parts, which detracts greatly
from its dignity and effect when examined
closely. The other notable Mosque, that of
aEssr adys1 god e ao on the 16 G Temple @
the most that can be said OF it. 1t is neither
lofty, massive, nor graceful, nor in any
way particularly attractive, according
Armenian church OF st. James comes next
In size and Importance, but In any other city
than Jerusalem 1t would not De likely 10 attract
attention, much less be regarded as an archi-
tectural lion. It has, however, some furnish
ings that are unique to western eye; and,
although could not understand a word that
was said, found the religious services there
one afternoon both interesting and impressive.
There are two Jewish synagogues, also whose
conspicuous M Mdomes,.one green. the other
worth seeing when they are reached. Such an
expectation viii not be realized, however. One
is quite Old, the other comparatively new, but,
iNnd, ootn are barren, dreary places, poorly furn-
ingly dirty in every part.
THIS comparatively brief catalogue includes
auout All tne buildings OF any consequence In
The city. They are all overshadoWed and nut
10 Shame by the walls surrounding the city
ltself. These ale indeed OF great mass and sim
PIE dignity, and, with the strong and lofty
towers rising above them at irregular intervals
constitute about the most Impressive feature of
tne LOCALITY, whether viewed from the inside or
al distance from beyond
ACCOUNTABLE STREETS.
But II little Is to be said in Recommendation OF
the general architectural appearance Of Jeru-
salem, still fewer words Of praise can be be-
slowed upon her streets. The thoroughfares
are all harrow, Dark, crooked, uneven, and
nlthy TO the utmost degree conceivable Such
Ihlng as conveyance On wheels has probably
never Deen seen inside the walls of the present
city, and SO round and smooth have the liino
stone paving blocks been worn that travel.
elthef on the back OF an animal or on foot ts
always dlffcult and sometimes positively dan
9elous, particularly after a fail OF rain. To
merely say that the streets are dirty gives no
adequate idea Of their actual condition. and
ms remark is especially applicable to those in
the JeWlsn quarter. In some OF the Fellah vii
lages or Egypt l had seen filth and foulness
Whlcn then supposed could not be matched
anywhere In the world, but what afterwards
saw ana slneit among the chosen people in Jeru-
saen mace the Egyptian denominations seem
clean ana fragrant by comparison. Why the
people lnhaolttng some OF these localities are
mol every year swept Off the face OF the earth
Dy diseases born OF filth, decay and degradation
is question that would puzzle all the boards of
nedItn ana sanitary commissions in Chrictap