The Portland daily press., 1879-05-01
[Harper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
WRAPS.

sert their hCld on favor for dressy garments,
while light ecru and tan colors are most seen in
the jackets that are more for service than for
dress. The glossiest fabrics are used for hand
some mantles, such as satin Sicilienne, moire
and rich gros grain. There are also come new
materials used, such as Bsngaline, which is as
lustrous as gros grain, yet as soft and pliable
as Sicilienne. 1t has very heavy reps, and is
used for fchus, mantles, etc Worth also uses
it for basques and over-dresses, as its soft tex
ture drapes beautifully. Another new fabric
is satin de Lyon, which has the smoothness and
almost the lustre of satin on one side, while the
other side looks like closely woven gros grain,
These and the moire, satin, and gros grain
mantles are made up without lining, and are
richly trimmed with three or four rows of
scantily pleated black lace, or else very deep
fringe Jet passementeries and drop ornam ents
are used as heading for fringes. also a stand
ing ruff1s of the lace. When warmer wraps
are needed, camePs.hair is used, and trimmed
as richly as silk mantes. For an intermed-
late wrap lighter than silk, China Grape is Sc
lected, and trimmed with. fringe tied in the
hem as on Canton Grape shswls, or else the
fringe is formed entirely of fine jet beads.
with deep heading of square mtshes.
For small wraps the fichus are preferred, and
these are shown in different shapes. A popu-
lar style is that with the ends crossing low on
the bust in front and carelessly tied behind.
This is the true Marie Antoinette style, aud is
much liked by young ladies' Another youth
ful.lookipg fchu crosses smoothly in front,
is shaped to fit over the hips, aud fastens below
the waist in the back. This is sometimes given
bontfant appearance by large bow of many
loops of ribbon placed low on the part that
fastens over the tournnre; in other garme nts
this basque part is pleated or puffed slightly to
give the effect of paniers. All these garmetn 8
have very short capes in the back, bat older
ladies prefer the larger fchus with the cape
reaching below the waist. behind, while the
fronts have long ends Tapped as If tied at the
waist line. For the latter camel s-hair is the
fabric most used, With lining of fine silk to
make it pleasant to the wearer The glossy
whalebone, tape, and other crimped fringeS
are handsome for trimming wooden wraps; also
the grass fringes doubled over from the top,
without heading. Very deep fringes are in
favor at present. In order to give the effect of
wide lace, it is now the custom to have three
rows of pleated Breton or else French lace, and
sew each row to black net of graduated widths
then to attach these pieces Of net to the edge Of
the mantle; jet psssementerie or lace ruche
is added above for q heading. Another hand
some mantle for an elderly lady has the long
front ends caught together to form tassels that
and finished with lace or fringe.
Next after the fichus come the mantles with
sleeves, or with the sides extended to form
square half sleeves. The newest fancy is to
give to these wraps panier appearance by
pleated fullness low in the back. Such wraps
are very elegant when made Of satin de Ly On
trimmed with many pleatngs of Breton lace.
Ladies who find it dificult to fit the shoulders
of mantles perfectly, conceal any mistakes by
putting rows of fringe or Of lace around the
neck deep enough to cover the darts on the
shoulders. A plea ated lace fan, or else jabot,
gives the front pretty finish.
For thin wraps fchus Of black Spanish lace
are shown, with Spanish lace frills and jet
ornaments. Some grenadine mantles are also
made, but these are more especially for grena-
dine dresses. Small round capes composed
| ished with fringe are revivals of the fashions
OF two years ago.
Sleeveless jackets of black satin are nov-
| city this season. They are short and iaunty,
| of China Grape shirred on the upper edge.
| Black camels-hair sacques are trimmed with
passementerie, in which gold seutache is intro
duced. Sacques of black silk or Sicili-
enne have very wide panels, cuffs,
| collar, and border OF Jet trimming in lat
ticed designs. Dressy jackets OF tan or cream col
| ored cashmere or cloth are trimmed with pekin
fabrics, or with pleated satin or silk let in the
| back and down the front as vest, or only as a
| plastron. For driving jackets young ladie:
| buy those of homespun English cloth iu promi
| nent checks or stripes of two beige or tan
shades; those of sailor blue cloth are not as
| much worn as they were last season, Those
| who prefer klack jackets have them made oi
fancy cloths with heavy diagonal lines or small
| armure figures, or else herring bone stripes.
These are donble-breasted, slightly cut away
below the waist, have short side forms and are
simply stitched on the hem; they are heavy
| enough for spring weather and cool mornings
in the country; they cost So to $12.
BoNNETs.
The modified Directoire bonnet, with broad
brim, fl airing at the top and close at the sides
is very MISUNDERSTANDING, and thus fal
proves to be the most popular Of the larg
shapes. 1t is shown in chips and in fame!
braids with the cream-colored rough straw
that trim SO effectively; also in the jet EN-
broidered bonnets, me- OF which are dOce oil
tulle. while others are wrought on satin Some
times soft crown is added to the dIrectoir
brim, but more usually it is large, smooth sn(
square. Those of beaded tulle are smooth oI
the frame and have lace strings, lace qull
ling and bouquet of roses or carnations witt
the long stems showing conspicuously placed
balls like those of necklace edge the brim
Still other embroidered bonnets have. whit
marabout plumes on the top, and elder bios
soms with watered ribbon for strings. Il
some bonnets the tulle is laid over black satil
and the lustre enhances the richness; q larg
thread lace barbe is passed below the crown Of
the small curtain, Is fastened on the sides b
crescents of Rhine crystals, and falls thence a
strings. In the haring brim of the Director
shape gold braid is sometimes used for facing
though shirred satin or silk is most often seen
Another stylish shape for chips and sof
straw bOnnets has broad fiaring brim that
quite soft and is drawn back on the left side b
trimming passing from the inside. This is
graceful and becoming shape for young ladie
who wear elaborate coiffures The close COT
tsge shapes with plain front or with rolled brir
remain most popular with ladies of conserva
tive tastes and are commended at the bes
houses as being most suitable for city streets
The Cabriolet bonnet, so like round hat, wi
, be worn at the summer resorts. 1t has gres
many flowers fancifullV disposed upon it, bot
inside and out, and is tied by ribbon string
: that pass across the crown.