Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-03-01
SPRTNG Fashions IN NEW roRk.
Correspondence 81 TIE Sfar.l

and monster entertainments are over and were
II not for the opera with Col. NapleSon at IT'S
head, We should be sitting down to sack-c!oth
and asheS-that is 10 say. TO quiet lunches. li,
| lie 'teaS" and at homes" at which there Is no
| dancing. and strict attendance upon one week
day religious service. in order 10 display the
| black toilette ana white undressed Kid gloves.
which are co173nc u faut for Lenten service. aud
| the medtPN al PRAYER book. bound and claSpcd
| and held by silver chains and suggestive or
| everything that Is quaint. interesting and an
| ti0ue. OF course. such observance OF Lent As
was recommended by old Tom Ierrick is out OF
| the question: but as change and 20 give bellies
| and beauy little rest, and 10 AFFORD an oppor-
! tunity tof getting up picturesque black cos
! tunes. il is very nice For there Is nothing 50
| tiresome as perpetual glitter and gayety and
| show: &c pals upon the senses fearfully and
| makes poverty itself attractive by contrast.
| one OF the most elegant ladies in New York
| always wears plain black wool en- dress with "a
| white linen collar and cuffs. al home, until din
| ner time, which is o'clock p. m. IL was Il
| startling. contrast to see her the other evening
| in her. box at the opera, the folds or satin
| damaSSee In the paie>t shade or apiAe blossom,
! mou ding her beautiful form. exquisite lace
falllI q upon her arms and neck, diamonds Hash
| Ing from her ears, and little soft silk cap
| faSieEed with a diamond arrow. poised ligltiN
| upon her head And the next morning every
| stray curl was tucked under d w0b" OF white
muslin and large white apron covered he
DlacA dress, as she sat TRANQUILITY meDding pl'
| OF stockings. putting buttons on aprons and the
! like.
| STRING MATERIALS
Bu; winter is over; spring is coming: let Us
see what we can lind in spring materials. Al
! the heavy gO0dS, fulred Cloths thick ribbed
| VelVets and dark silken plushe5. have dsap-
/ pCareu from the counters or the great shops
| anG they have been succeeded by an array 81
| light and charming spring materials, from
CambrlcS AT l. cents per yard TO rich grenadines
! at six dollars. The display OF printed cottOnS
/ was never pIettier than this sc lSon. In add
! ton TO the iac ginghamS in delicate cheeks ana
| hair stripes. formerly known rs Madras
/ cOIf0nS Dlli restored 10 their ancient title
! OF - giDghamS with which our mothers and
| grandmotheTS were familiar, there are lovely
| . sateens in exquisite chint2 patterns upon
! IVORY grounds. the flgurCS consisting or small
floral designs ana delicate tracery OF tiny leaves
| and nbrouS stems. There are also what are
| Known as - mummy cloths. loOSer ana cOarSer
| In the ground texture upon which also are
| printed small chintI patterns somewhat less
delicate in coiorlIE than the "SateenS
out often with timely shaded effects. The
| best 1H"diStes are putting these lowered
| fabrics INTO combinations VITA plain or striped
goods. excepting in rare instances, when they
ton, however, for delicate chtntzes is White en-
broldeiy OF lace. and for this latter purpose the
| handmade laceS of the European peasant
! women, Irish. Belgian and ASattaIl. are pre
| feired 10 ally other.
In woolenS there are no special novelties. bu,
| al the lovely bdLe shades in summer camel =
! hair have reappeared, and are combined with
silk for complete costumes. There is also new
self-cOloIed cloth, which is called Grape Cloth is
| very reasonable in price and comes in al the
| turquoise shades Of blue. as well as I'm navy
blue, gray and black This material is partcU-
larry well adapted for polonaises OF a light tex
| tu!e over black suits for house wear. and also
for spring suits for misses and children.
| Ia place OF the summer silks in hair stripes
| and small checks there are cheae silks with
| dark grounds under the clouded surface and
| JaSpe silks, also with dark grounds upon which
fine lines are broken into bars and ugZagS ana
| tiny lightning like daSheS. Superior 10 these in
| quality are the 40 LOuSineS - in which the mix
| Jdfe Of White with a dark color form a soft
crapy texture, and the lines an almost mimi
| teSlmal check. Louisines established themselves
| as faV0TlteS last season, and Will be welcomed
/ With the warmth accorded TO a popular favOrite
/ whose merits have been confirmed and tested
by experience. - Perrin is novelty i'll silk OF
light texture which has alternate ribbed and
| satin stripes, and these are now lowered in
| mixed c0loIS, and with unmiStakahle Chinese
! taste There is no up nor down 10 the figure
| because the stems seem to have been drOpDed
| Just as II happened upon the surface some Up.
some down, and some across. The plain striped
material ia ivory tintS has been used very much
for trimming evening dresses during the winter.
bnt in the new liOwered patterns it makes light.
cool indoor dresses OF a quaint and De tuliar
character, well iitted to southern climates.
The richer novelties in silks and grenadines
are striped, alternating with plain color and a
ribbon pattern. The grenadines are peculiarly
rich ana beautiful. Tue grenadine ST ripe alter
rates with narrow stripe OF fritZe velvet,
which shows underneath a foundation color in
satin, which contrasts with the ground color OF
tle grenadine, Thus. Tor example, ccrW shows
garnet; gray. crimson: fawn color, blue, ana
! the like The entire upper service is OF pure
J body color, and the silk over which il would be
made would also be OF this ground Shade. This
would give tone upon tone with the lines OF a
high contrast running beneath the surface, "A
| very lutagllo III manufactured fabric.
Black and white stripes reappear in rich quail
tiles Oh SIN with satin. from hair lines up TO
| stripes ali inch wide. These are used for trim
ming purposes principally, an entire dress OF
black and white being int0lerabe 10 ordinary
GIT after brief acquaintance.
STREET COSTUMES.
me new models for short walking dresses are
cut two OF three inches shorter than those o
last season. Instead Of lust cleaning the grolnt
they are raised just above the heel OF the boo
at the back, and slow the foot in all its grace
or all its deforlnity, very distinctly. Whether
these styles VIII obtain approval and be adopt
ed by the majority who desire short dress /.
| qulle another matter. The probability Is thai
they VIII not. Still they will suit some young
giris with very small, pretty feet, and they arc
undenlably useful for costumes en- ropaEp foI
mountain excursions and for country wear fol
lne members OF walking clubs. The fashion OF
these costumes has not materially changed
they still cling TO the figure and gather up what.
ever drapery Is used in mass upon the back OF
the skirt. The halftitting jacket is also as fash
lonable as ever, and particularly adapted to
morning and washing costumes
more elegant styles and richer fabrics adopt
lle d" este" sort OF small, straight dolman:
or the mantalet, knotted in front or with
stralght, square ends; or the pelerine, which
iaSlenS In front without the ends All these
styles are adapted TO fine Woollen and hand.
some SIX fabrics, Which employ fringeS, pass.
Of course Woollen, even the finest. shows very
utt!e fringe In its ornamentation. compared
win SILK, Woollen fringe having lost its prestige
ana peen remanded back TO the upholstery de-
paftment, and strict fashion not admitting OF
the use OF silk fringe for the trimming of WOOL
len materials. The camels hair suits. there
lore are trimmed with flat embroidered or
procaded Stuffs: Or, better than all they are
hand- embroidered upon.the material This last
method is used for the most distinguished and
complete or woollen costumes. the embroidery
being executed in various colors and snades,and
either outllHlng the jacket vest, cuffs and over.
SklTt or FORMING plaStr0n in front, and cuffs
OF caps upon the sleeves, besides pieces which
are In some way used TO show upon the drapery
or at the sides OF the skirt. Tiny MargueriteS
with delicate foliage, pansies starry forget me
notS and fuchiaS are selected among patterns
Tor this purpose, and executed upon bane
shades of olive and blue, crimson. black ana
owe, and other fay0rite combinations. CreweI
Slltch Is used for this embroidery, and different
shades OF wool are frequently used Instead of
SIX, or In combination with silk TO TORN the
design. an additional reason being found in the
greater ease and rapidity with which the WORT,
! is executed
one thing must be said, that the diversity OF
Styles and the liberation accorded whafeyeI
nad reason or merit In its effectiveness Tor ey-
lstence, renders ii possible for ladies' to design
thelf own toflettes with entire independence OF