The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-10-28

ODER 20, 1919. -IkOADhO1
the sea bathing at San Sebastian at the Arenas Of
Bilbao and all along the northwestern coast supply
the natives with charming summer retreats, where
at sunset it is deemed an imprudence to go about
without an abrigo or top coat. And even without
travelling further from Madrid than the thirteen
leagues separate the Royal Acazar Plaza do
Oriente from the royal seat of La GranJa de San de
june. july August and september-snjoying ali the
blessings without any of the drawbacks OF the sum-
heat.
UNDER THE GUARDIANSHIP OF SPANISH FORESTS.
There has been repeat. not one drop OF rain at
La Granja from the beginning OF June. YET the
trees the square before the palace the shrubs OF
the parterres the Kings garden or park have not
one leaf parched shrunken and the turf looks as
fresh and verdant it may be on the slopes of
Windsor or the hats of Hampton Court. We are
here $500 feet above the level OF the sea; the noun
tains all round, clad with their primeval pines,
have not even yet in mid Auguet let down all the
snow nesting in the holows OF their deep gorSss;
the brawling Of rushing streams gladdens the ear
under the green garden avenues, supplying tho
luxury of the score OF fountains which royal mu-
niicence has laid out with consunmate taste, some
OF which. like that of La Fama. send up Ia FESTIVE
In the air that their rainbow crowned spray may Dc
all country far ~ Segovia six miles on
All round outside the Royal domains are splendid
drives shaded by lofty and ne bride paths
across wild heaths covered with brushwood. along
tumbling trout streams leading to sylvan spots OF
unsurpassed Alpine loneliness the Boca del Asno.
the Casa do Vacas to Robledo to the ruins OF the
old castle OF Vasain, with more rugged ways into
the heart OF the Sierra, the Reventon or cleft in
the mountains and to the hoary solitude OF III Pau
lar What spot on earth can imagination conjnre up
for more bracing and invigorating summer apodeY
The sun is burning hercely for o few hours OF the
day away from the shade OF the trees and from
the relief OF the mountain breeze. But tho
breeze is seldom failing. aud for shade we are no.
where ut loss; and at the rising or setting OF tho
tho elasticity the air. its purity tho frasrancy
of tho wild thyme and OF the pine foliage with
which it is mpregnated, have softness, sweetness
and balminess which the Alps themselves cannot
rival. No dew falls here, yet there is moisture III
the air the compar alive length of the night in this
southern latitude tempering tho parching influence
of the days drought. The peasant in the field, the
soldier at parade or DRILL the sportsman in pursuit
OF game, thrive III the noontide glare; and tho
lounge Of the Court and fashionable circle Is taken
here before lunch timo, between eleven and one
O'Clock. little Inconvenience being felt from the heat
even by the children and nurses playing with hoops
aud skipping ropes in the sun the palace terrace
And yet with all these natural charms and several
score of fine houses with gardens and two country
inns La Granja seems tn have Little attraction for
the Spaniards. and this year little better than
desert till the King graced tho place with his pres
Hardly anybody but those for whom the only
alternative lies between this aud Madrid are here
even now. And OF those whom duty chains to tho
spot many painting for Biarritz. and some aro
of to that darling spot Whenever health or pressing
private affairs supply pretext for their absence
In those that remain 1t is pleasant to study some OF
the peculiarities OF Spanish summer life. ...
KING ALFQNso's COURT.
La Granja. when the King is here. of course, be-
comes the Court We have here the Kings Cuiras
Sers, his troops. his Halberdier Guard the attend
4hts. honorary and salaried, about his person. or
those OF the Princess and of the Royal Infantas.
off. and q sprinkling OF the diplomatic body. The
KING lives here almost patriarchally; the gardens
are opened throughout the day. ana even the par
terre round the palace, close to its windows. is lib
orally accessible to every class OF persons Before
domestic mourning broke in there was an open
theatre, musical band and the g,aades eauz playing
in the afternoon. the King and the Princess Of
Asturas taking their pleasures with their Subjects
mixing and conversing with the groups seated the
marble benches upon slight acquaintance and with
unaffected amiabilty and cordially. TO all outward
seeming the gathering OF the people at LasGranja
thA nj hn nn.
many years established equality before the law
in Spain. anu there is nothing in Iuen's womens
to mark any distinction Of social rank. Yet
here may discern forces of attraction and repu
sother to ocs orether The latent II areus the
exclusive instincts OF which royal personages
show no trace. are still at work. and un..
consciously, as 1t were. betrayed by of
the titled servants in waiting upon them.
But familiarity and even friendship between the
men do not always in this country imply intimacy
or even acquaintance between their families. Wo-
men stand their ground with polite determination
and ignore each other with easy nonchalance:
Where the greatest nobemen and the King himself
move about in shooting jackets and straw hats the
ladies display nery characterized in the highest
rank by simplicity and elegance, among the middle
orders by gorgeousness OF colors and profusion of
founces and furbelows. There the fair ones sit in
chairs, group scanning another. taking stock of
the rival attire, whispering CONFIDENTIAL remarks,
while the men. all to themselves. flourish their
the Kings movements to be ready with their
obeisance he passes, yet breaking out into loud
disputes or bursts Of noisy merriment without
shadow OF restraint. Thus, between checks
friendly communion and freedom OF country habits.
La Granja constitutes very curious kind Of water.
ing place. 1t is simply Madrid and tho Court out OF
town. tho same classes in their usual antagonsm,
every man known to his neighbors animated by old
likes and dslikes mindful OF precedents swayed by
prejudices. With little pleasant but unexciting in
cidents of this kind the tenor Of Spanish sum-
NOR life at La Granja Ia varied. The usual way OF
getting rid OF the day consists in lying abed till be-
tween ten and eleven. coming to muster on tho
Palace terrace till going homo to lunch, taking
siesta till five six then drive, ride walk down
the to Segovs where score of carriages cover
with dust many groups OF nurses aud children. OF
priests and priests cronies. and ladies' in long, trail
ing dresses; tho pedestrians seldom stretching be-
yond the Campo del Tomlo, an open heath where
wild thyme grows, and where the enjoyment
sists in sitting on rocks and watching cardboard
kites, in the shape of veritabo hawks or eagles.
flying the air. and driving little live birds scared
aud fiuttering out Of sight or q little further OF
to the Valsain Brook, where the amusement is
supplied by Newfoundland dogs plungng in tho
rushing stream, breastng the current, fetching
sticks and diving for stones to the great delight
and qualification of their proud owners. In the
evening" after dinner or supper there is the theatre
with the Spanish play performed before thin
audiences play told twice over, the actors part
being merely perpetual echo to the prompter's
voice. Even with limited stock of the worlds.
enjoyment the Spaniards contrve to tide over the
summer; for, after ALL whether in town country,
the thing they most delight In is talk and there Is
plenty OF room between heaven and earth at La
(iranja for overy variety of grave light. improv-
ing or triaing conversation.
SARCEY ON THE COMEDIE FRANCAISE.