The New York herald., 1879-09-22
PARIS IN PLUMES.
Shadowy Mourning Wells and Ruby
Powdered Robes Oh
A DREAM OF FAIR DRESSES.
Nantes Of Moss and Silks Through
Which Sunbeams Play.
PARIS. Sept. 8, 1879.

religious service celebrated at Notre Dame de Lor-
cite in memory of the first anniversary of the death
of NJ. Thiers. few cards had been issued for the
ceremony, which Parisians calls "Ba,a de Pan" and
the press had announced the event; nevertheless.
public feryor has either abated grief has cooled
for the congregation not only thin, but far from
select. Out OF the eight chairs placed in tho
tuary for eminent mourners only two were occu-
pied. and they by Mme Theirs and her sister. Nile
Dsne. Tho edifce was carpeted only. not hung
with black. and the mass rendered impressive By .
full organ and choral performance. -,,
The widow of the illustrious deceased attired
like her sister. In dull close Milanese description
Of bombazine; tho crosscuts &C., were empress
crape their wells foil from the of close bonnet
shapes in long trains full three yards long the
ground, which they swept manteauxI dc
cour. shadowy in tho extreme is this style
of veil, for it shrouds the figure in wavy folds
entirely. and spreads night around; but the
wearer must be very certain that the
kind OF privacy it pleads for will not
be molested and that persons following in her
will considerably avoid pressing forward. step
the flowing Grape draws the bonnet back-a most
painful pull il the latter is securely pinned to the
chgnon. and if not. down 1t falls This occurred to
Nine. Theirs. As she descended the nave to depart
there most ndecorous push Of persons anxious
to stare at her. and her Marie Stuart weeds were
caught her bonnet forward. however. very quietly.
and after that carried her veil over her arm.
1t has been observed with much truth that re
spect for public decorum, or which the nation was
ever noted, is now becoming fainter and fainter
The rabble who trampled Marie Antoinette's foot
as she walked in their midst. and trod off her
shoe, have left behind them grinay trail. and for
these anguish Is sacred. sight of tears, sight
of blood. it is all sight to feed on so long it
lasts. But while good manners the decline it
must be admitted that phraseology in divers indus
trial branches is becoming polished the lam
guage once spoken at the Hotel Ramboullet
Gentlemen who sit up working under the
tiles over long strips Of open-cut embroid-
cry talk of powdering designs over with
rubies, which means that the patterns are
closely set with red glass beads. Then there is
..chiselcd lace. which means black net borders OF
which the festooned edges are traced round with
| gold thread tambour stitch There Feather
| dustings' besides, which means tufts Of down,
dotted here and there. on millinery trimmings. and
| rainbow tippings only bits Of ducks breasts
Joined on to marabout. Joaillerie naturelle means
fowers stars and emblems made Of the tiniest but
fashiest parts OF the most precious BIRDS These af-
ected forms of speech. more particularly applied to
the novelties of this season, are very
insane l we we draw parallel ALE between
la@ s ao was ass o
iaary aGt sad sn w
woman, who is feathery. all over just now. The
fashions are suturnalia OF plumes. They nod by
threes on Macounase shapes; bend under the bur-
den of insects poised above; nestle in po1npons;
wave in cavalier flourish; bristle up the wing
form gorgeous clump in Us fat piece of sunshine
as swept forest glade; or again. proudly dis
daining. the hues OF glorious things oontentedly
curl about in the sober drab hues natural to the
birds they pulled from H f-
.a8 FEArHERY FILMS.
crown called Yedda, and worked for Nine. Eugenie's
millinery ateier by Japanese artistic. not to say
ouyrlere. The material is creme corded silk crown,
not drawn, but standing Tan like at the back the
rim is moderate directoire OF drawn white velvet.
The crown is the great feature. 1t is q spreading
boquet OF gem like feathers infinitely small. and all
gummed irst then sewn on in harmonious group
ing. do not think setting Of emerads and rubies
could be moro beautiful this Yedda so patiently
elaborated has all the merit of handwork each tiny
film having to be taken up separately aud out OF diff
The other new hat called zaire is the triumph of
embroidered beadwork. II is garnet velvet small
sized directoirel with nedding, ostrich plumes
shaded from dark wall flower to bright inasturttum
and jonquil tips; tho embroidery is gold thread
tanbour foundation. over which unfold acantha
can fancy Princess Scheherazade paying her morn
ing calls in hat OF this kind; it seems to step
naturally out OF the "ArabiRn Nights" entertain
ments. The question is who in our days ana in our
cline will put it on. Everything in this costly line
fashions depart for Russia aud Spanish grandees.
We have, It is true, royal marriage in
perspective. but there must be cloud over these
hurried espousas. and, for the first time my life,
have just heard the heiress OF merchant prince
tstarch and mustard) declare 'she wouldn't like tn
be the Archduchess state reasons. indeed; decent
reasonsl And who knows If the end of that will
not be an end similar to the Comte de Chambords.
but asked no questions I have seen the Arch.
duchess, and think the way she behaved when her
future other-in-law called ON her at tho ''Aieu-
rice was very respectful and proper. Queen Isa-
belle, accordance with court etiquette.
having advanced to kiss the hand of the
royal fancee, the Archduchess hastily rose
and knclt to Isabelle. who lifted her and
pressed Austria" to her bosom. or course there
cred tombs. but the orleans Princes will not be
present A description OF the materials ordered or
the trousseau their makes and all the etceteras will
but be repetition of what was seen for the former
youthful Queen 1t strikes me that all the materials
but brides. Who but girls full OF soft, dreamy
hopes. love aud the other delusions are lit to wear
the poetic fabrics now on sale? Does 1t seem natu-
raj tnat grabbed. soursouled spinster. matron or
elder, should go about ia these Kaleidoscope silks
through which sunbeams play?
have gone over the whole series from pckins to
the very latest made yicuna shown by al. Birze. 1t
is he calls it, feat in the weaving line, being
'.gace woollen vicuna." II appears that harry and
soft vigognes. although still In dcmand, not to
viewed. viz % The difficulty consists in the difference be-
tween weft and warp. Thus. the weft is OF three
shades lot us say bronze. and the warp OF
on the whole Is silky-looking yet the feel
is downy. This new fabric is considered
its changefuT hues which are match those richer
brocades and Indian stufs made up for casaquns.
The latter range in Paris from thirteen and a half
francs and five metres required for casaquin.
Cropon do Lahore. IN the paon and sapphire
shades is another beautiful tissue It is not quite
plain, having watercd markings woven I'M 1t will
make up with other Indian Tissues especially satin.
In ali the palm designed camels' hair materials
that 90 by strange Asiatc the coored effects
are all silk. lady's cloth for nantles is the drap
dc Ladakh, over a metre wide. s,A,l 8. N
For evening dress the woolcn materials arc sap
pie transparences in vapor coorngs. There Is a
rose to dream about called .nngor-tips" but whose
fingers unless Ph1be's? 1t Is as light as incense
smoke. too and this really is the perfection of tho
manufacturers art--nnmcly that the idea inspired
by color should BIO realized by touch. Industry thus
becomes fine art. But again this notion of hnger
tips calls back to III the cnds OF ladies'
hands are as pretty as an ocean washed shell
that they ruthless at times. In connection
with roses have been told that when Abd-el-Kader
was Ut the chateau of Ambosc, In Cour-
rainc not ono rose could ever be gathered