, 1879-04-06
THE FASHIONS.


IN dTes6 great changes are taking place ;
touching bonnets, their variety is infinite, and
their name legion. A score or two of years have
passed away since the straw tunnel in which
ladies' faces once resided WAS abandoned for
the little cottage ornee. Now the coal-scuttles,
the large gypsy, the wide brims OF our great
Erandmothers, return in revival OF Leghorn,
yellow Tuscan, and variety OF pretty OPEN
worked straws. The latest openings show a
mcdly Of different shapes belonging to differ
ent cpochs and different nations; not only are
French and English styles represented, but In
dian, Chinese, Japanese. and even African.
There exists certain fascination in the large
dislngue Lcghorn bonnet, with It's float
lug pale iyory-tiuted ostrich pfumes, cream
coioycd facings Of shirred satin, broad satin
bias strings edged with delicate crcam-colored
Breton lace, and the same soft tint observed in
some long looped satin bows mingled With lace.
All ecru tints and shades Of cream, ivory, buff,
and cowsIip-yeIIow are very fashionable. The
wide brims, something of the scoop shape, arc
all faced for the early dars Of spring with satin,
velyet, or shirred 1adia muslin, which Is as del
icate as lace or tarletau. TIE satin facfngs are
of MI cream shades, faint tints of yellow, Tea
rose, and straw-color, and Of dark velvet, af-
fording charming contrast to the outer adorn-
ings. Dark garnet, sendar1ne blue, dark bottle
green, Sevres-blue, and black are greatly used.
In place Of feathers, flowers are placed in
heavy masses on the outside Of bonnets in half
wrcaths Of very large roses without foliage.
med with half handkerchief Of satin, either
white OF striped, called Fauchon, and are laid
over the crown, the edges trimmed with Breton
1..- n1.t -<% --rv +;1-,
OF garnet satin and cream-color, and
are lined with Inlia muslin drawn in finest
shirrs; the strings ire doubled muslin, edged
with plated Breton luce. The new roseau, or
reed green, the color Of tie first grayish-green
grasses and wnter-reeds Of spring, has charm
ing effect ln a wreath Of foliage made to pass
around the crown OF bonnet, with satin rib
bon of the same delicate tint passing down at
the sides, serving for strings. 4 Gypsy shape
is made Of Leghorn, to be worn very much uycr
the face, In the coquetIish manner brought about
By the briln being held down to the sides Of tho
head BY strings, causing the hat to fare in front
aud behind. This is trimmed with creatn-co-
ored ostrich tip, and large cluster Of dalnask
roses and hulf-blown buds; the strings are
double-iaced satin, garnet and raN-colored,
which are tied in q bow at the back. The wide
brims are bent BY the nilliners to accord with
the face OF the wearer.
Black bonuets lose none Of their old popu}ari-
t., and are trimmed with great deal Of black
Breton lace, jet ornaments, jetted feathers, and
when colors ure liked upon the black lace bon-
nets, tea-rose is added, sometimes garnet, c1rl-
hroideElcs Of old-gold silk or lace and white.
Black chip boDuets are more d,stingue when
trimmed altogether with black satin for the lin
ing, black feather tips, aud an addition Of the
gold embroidered lace.
Straw beads, aud galloon, and gay tinse1 gal
loon are among tile new ornaments. Rhine
pebbles scintilate like diamonds mounted as
spray. Large closed rings hold the Alsatiau
and Lorraine bows in place, and there are gilt
tcring Rhiue pebbles set in silver anchors,
dragons, tridents, beetles, darts, horseshoes,
crowrs, and turtles Flowers are
large. and set in rows without foliage, next to
q row OF chr} san nthenlutns, which forsake their
natural colurs, and bloom in copper tints, sap
phire blue, palest green, and olive. The bright
Scarlet OF pup!1ics CLEANS over large clusters ot
crram-coloreu lnignonette, and pansies assume
all colors but thelr own. Delicate Grape leaves
are formed into earla.ds of graygreen unI gar
utt; flowers Of whatever nature are greatly
used by way OF contrast III wrcaths t0r the
crowus and half .wTratls for the forehead.
French mulstes are already fash,oning gar
,ucnts according TO the style OF the ancient re-
Foomy, easy, and rich in
outside oruatneutation. This inconvepient rev.
o!utio1 has 0een FASTENED by the cry for
.hunyc. The sheath-shape, clinging costumes
retirc to make way for tournures, large, full
paniers. oyerskirts, and long basques, with
rest worn outside and much shorter, small coats
with square tails; and, in fact, decided change
IRON Tile shapes of last spring. The most iu~
portant change Is seen III the new oyerskirts
with the very bouifanr back drapery aud shlrred
front; they are, besides, very much higher than
tilcy we're, sometimes presenting the effect OF
paoier scarf made to pass around the hips and
pack in full clusters Of plaits. An imported
costume Of pearl combined with garnet wa
:crcd silk has sitiu-striped panier oyerskirt
uadc short and draped away at the sides under
short basque Of gurnet, which Is worn over
long, pearl-colored vest. Tie arrangement
II the new overskirt and curtain drapery
) very complicated and difficult to com .
,reheud through pen description, espe-
ially when the contrasts in color and |
abrics are marked. For example: The |
amer scarf drapcry is very full, and the full
less is produced by closelS S-latd plalts just at
he waist, instead Of the former fashion OF being
aid below; thus the hips are made to appear |
cry much enlarged; IS in the case Of Il French |
rcss. tie oye1skir1 Of ccru cancels huir opens |
!, front in tile form Of curtain drapery turned |
lacK at the sides in revers faced with brighter
baae, the reyers being very full. Above this I
,:arf drauery OF darker shade is passed en- |
:rctv around aud under to fail in full draperies
ehind. The uuderskirt OF the dark ecru is |
ui1e narrow, and has Q wide knife-plaited !
ounce on the bottom headed by narrow plait-
az. The open oyerskirts are yerT short, and |
axe on the retrousse washerwoman effect.
Another style has shirred front with very full |