The Newtown bee. (Newtown, Conn.) 1877-current, 1879-09-10


Wistaria gladdens our houses outside,
And Xeranthemum flowers forever abiue.
is the Yucca, or needle and thread,
And with the old Zinnia our verse is ended.
Black SILK Suits for Autumn.
The furnishing houses are spending
the summer months in making up silk
and wool suits for early autumn. The
designs are French, and are copies of the
models leading French dresSmakerS
furnish for their best customers. A
great many black silk suits are being
made, as these are staple suits, and re-
main in favor no matter what novelties
are introduced later. Three or four diff
ferent fabrics enter each of these black
costumes; first, there is the lustrous
black gros grain or heavy cord for the
principal part; second. the armure or
arabesque velvet for paniers, panels, or
other garniture; third, the inexpensive
silk for the lower skirt where it is con-
cealed by the overdress; and finally, some
plain satin for pipings and for facings.
Two styles of making these dresses are
shown; that which is considered most
dressy has the panier polonaise for the
overdress, while that which is the most
suitable for all occasions has basque
and u trimmed skirt. There are vari-
Gus arrangements of the panier polo
naise. but that which meets with most
favor at present because it has so many
new features, has the long fronts
rounded away from a velvet vest to
make bouhant folds on the hips, and its
ends are gathered up in the back be-
meath a graceful basque. Two long
breadths of silk are then added behind
under the basque, and these are punched
N lrn Inf
FAINT. The vest of armure velvet comes
to sharp point in front just where the
silk paniers begin. The short round
skirt has the front and the narrow side
gore formed ofalternate stripes of armure
velvet and boX-plaitings of silk that ex
tend from the belt to the foot; six of
each of these stripes is favolite num-
Der. Sometimes these stripes fall on n
narrow box -plaiting at the foot; the
back breadths are trimmed with deep
boX-plaited ilounce of straight silk. The
fronts of the panier polonaise are edged
with rich fringe, such as the smooth
chenille fringe known as seal-skin fringe,
and tassels of crimped silktape.
The second design has u squabeof sim
pie shape, on which is set panier scar
of figured velvet, which gives it very
dressy effect. The details of these suits
are noted very carefully for the benefit
OF correspondents who have asked sug-
gestions for remodelling last seasons
dresses, and for making new ones in an
ticipation of the time of wearing them.
The silk basque is round, medium long,
has two darts in front, and short side
form in the back, beginning in the arm
hole. The side forms and the two mid
die forms of the back are of the same
width at the waist line. The panier
Off 10 friyr hui e
ured velvet laid upon the skirt of the
basque. 1t begins in a point at the end
of the front. of the basque, ascends
sharply on the hips, and is widened so
rapidly that it forms deep plaits on the
hips, and these terminate by being sewed
in the seams which join the side forms
to the middle forms of the back. The
middle forms are left quite plain, being
merely piped on the edge with satin, and
ornamented higher up with a volumin-
Gus bow of satin ribbon. There are
also strings underneath the basque, be-
ginning in the seams where the panier
Scarf ends, and tied back tightly to hold
the panier fullness in place. On the
bosom of the basque is velvet revers
placed straight down each side of the
hem, beginning in point at the collar
and widening to three or four inches Just
above the darts. Bows of black satin
ribbon and either satin or velvet buttons
fasten the front.
The lower skirt is next considered
This consists of four breadths of silk,
and is short enough to escape the ground
all around. The front gore and that on
each side should be made the entire
width of the silk at the bottom, and be
back breadth is the whole width, and
has, besides, small piece joined to each
side at the bottom. There is drawing
string not far below the belt across the
back to mass the gathers behind, but
this is not drawn tight enough to give
the clinging effect for which it was first
used. In many dresses this lower skirt
is made of black silk that is sold ut 81
a yard, MS it is entirely concealed by the
richer goods of the overskirt, but in the
greater number the front breadth is ex-
posed, and must therefore be of the best
silk. To accompany the basque just de-
scribed flounce is used of straight silk
ten inches deep laid in cluster of seven
knife plaits, with box plait of either
silk or velvet between. The overskirt
does not cover the plain silk front
breadth On each side it forms TIVE
panels of the figured velvet, each finished
separately. and Joined by bows of satin
ribbon. These panels are straight, and
are piped all around with satin; the
front panels are three inches shorter
than those Just beyond them, and tn
over ends are finished with fringe. The
back drapery is of silk cut full and
straight, simply hemmed, and punched
up irregularly. The overskirt and lower
skirt are attached permanently to one
belt, and are put on rs one garment.
To brighten UP black silk suits for
young ladies great deal of color has
been used during the summer. and will
reappear in winter dresses. The gayest
design is the Scotch plaid trimmings of
velvet in regular clan tartan patterns.
that form paniers, bon ders, vests, wide
belt, cuffs and collar. The gay Stuart
and Rob Roy plaids that have q great
deal of red and yellow are liked by
brunettes.a while the blue and green
mixed plaids are used by Blondes.
Dresses made for less youthful ladies
have the trimmings Of soft twilled silks
brocadcd in Persian patterns OF many
rich oolors and of most intricate designs
As these silks are soft, they make grace
full fun draperies, such as shirred vests,
or surplice scarfs, or the new shirred
guinness that are inserted like plastrons
In squares or in points. The only over
skirt then consists of short wrinkled
apron of tire gay silk that is in full
painters on the sides, and is tied behind
in puff bow, or else fat sash with
long ends If this leaves long plain
front Of the lower skirt uncovered, it is
no matter, as all that is required by
style h n sffnr,le border fIounce or else "a