The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1879-08-14
FREAKS.
First Hats of Acknowledged BaEar'
Tells What Will BE Worn when the
Leaves Begin 10 Turn.

First Hats of Acknowledgment BREar"
Tells whRt Will BE Worn when the
Leaves Begin TO Turn.
The new silks to be worn during the
early autumn and winter are brocaded
stripes Of two Ur three contrasting colors,
and also small artnure figures set in pre-
else rows. Muny Of the armure silks are
partly velvet, while others are plush, the
figures being long raised pile on a silk or
satin ground Of the same color. This is
especially handsome in black, prune, gray,
and quaint blue shades. The striped silks
have arabesque figures in graceful curves
Of a darker color on a lighter ground, as
gendarme blue on gold, prune on pale
rose or pink, cardinal on cream color. The
stripes are about an inch wide, and are
separated by the merest pencil.lin Of
twilled satin. These figured silks are 10
serve, as at present, for parts OF costumes
that have plain silk or satin for their foun-
dation.
The furnishing houses are spending the
summer months in making up silk aud
wool suits for early autumn. The designs
are French, and are copies OF the models
leading French dress.makers furnish for
their best customers. Agreat many black
silk suits are being made, as these are sta
pie suits and remain in favor no matter
what novelties are introduced later. Three
or four different fabrica enter into
each OF these" black costumes: first, there
is the lustrous black gros grain Of heavy
cord for the principal part; second, The
armure OF arabcsque, velvet for paniers,
panels or other garnituTe: third, the mex.
pensive silk for the lower skirt where it is
concealed by the overdress; and finally,
some plain satin for pipings and for fac
ings.
Two styles Of making these dresses are
shown; that which is considered most
dressy has the panier pOlonaise for the
overdress, while that which is most suita.
BILE for all occasions has a basque and a
trimmed skirt. There are various arrange.
ments OF the panier polonaise. but that
which meets with most favor at present,
because it has so many new features, has
the long fronts rounded away, from a
velvet vest to make boutFant folds on the
hips, and its ends are gathered up in the
back beneath a graceful basque. The long
breadths Of silk are then added behind un.
der the basque, and these are punched up
to make the back sufficiently boutfant.
The vest OF armure velvet comes to a
sharp point in front inst where the silk
paniers begin. The short round skirt has
the front and the narrow side gore formed
OF alternate stripes OF armure velvet and
box pleatings ofsilk that extend from the
belt to the foot; six OF each OF these stripes
is q favorite number.
The second design has a basque OF sim
pie shape, on which is set a panier scarf
of figured velvet, which gives It a very
dreSsy effect. The details OF these suits
are noted carefully for the benefit Of cor.
respondents who have asked suggestions
for remodeling last seasons dresses, and
for making new ones in anticipation OF
the time for wearing them. The silk
basque is round, medium long, has two
darts in front, and q short side form in the
back, beginning in the armhole. The side
forms and two middle forms Of the back
are OF the same width at the waist line.
The panier effect is given by a broad piece
Of figured velvet laid upon the skirt Of
the basque.
To brighten up black silk suits for young
ladies a great deal OF color has been used
during the summer, and will reappear in
winter dresses. The gayest design is the
Scotch plaid trimmings of velvet in regu.
lar clan tartan patterns, that form paniers,
borders, vests, o wide belt, cuffs and col.
lar. The gay Stuart and Rob Roy plaids
that have a great deal OF red and yellow are
liked by brunettes, while the blue and
green mixed plaids are used by blondes.
Dresses made Tor less youthful ladies have
the krimmings OF soft twilled silks, bro
caded in Persian patterns OF many rich
Colors and OF most intricate designs.
While stylish summer dresses are made
season that the accessories must CORES.
pond in hue. Thus the parasol, the fan,
the sash and the stockings are chosen all
lot the same prevailing tint, with refer.
enGe 10 that Of the dress trimming. When
there are paniers broGaled in two c0lors,
instead OF a sash, both oil these appear In
tho articles just mentioned. The simplest
bingham dress has It's japanese fan Of the
gay hues Of the plaid, and the lisle.thread
gtoCkings arc Hecked or striped in similar
tints. 1t Saratoga one lady is said to
possess twenty paFasol5, each eGe OF which
was made 10 order after her costumes were
completed.
White parasoIs with lace trimmings are
1.-THE most elegant OF the season, and accom-.
pany the whlte FRENCH bunting and India
muslin toilets worn during the day on the
piazza. Embroidery in gay colors forms
q border around the cream, white and
i pale pink parasols that are made oiLwilled
India foulard; a deep fringe repeats these
colors on the edge OF a parasol. For car.
| riage use there are also satin p~arasols
usually either white or black, enriched
! tprnsiye parasols the canopy shape, OIL
size almost as large az a sun umbrella, il
Eprelerred to the Japanese shape intro,
lduced this season.
Wide belts Of woven canvas iastenet
with leather buckles are tho novelty iI
. country toilets. Some OF these arc fouI
v and a half inches wide, arc made Of whit
o canvas, and are fastened by three small
buckles aud straps al light-eOlorcd lcath
a er; others are only two inches broad. TX
n the left side lG attached 4 square Whit
canvas bag, and the whole is very etteC
l. tive with blue, black or green dresses. Tn.
a belts cost from sixty-ive cents to n dol
lar, and the bag Is one dollar and a hall
= There are also brown canvas belts witt
y black leather buckles, half blue stripe
q with white, solid blne, plain gray an
IL black c~anvassets,