Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-01

ShlTlS anu HOW DctSQueS over tl6So were Drawn
and draped as simply as possible white and
black gauZe. The tablier having the gauze
drawn across and gathered into the side
seams, the train massing the gallze which cover
ed it and the satin into shirrings partly con-
cealed by vOluminouS cluster of satin ribbon
loops and ends, which were gold color upon the
which can be arranged to suit tastes Skirts
were demi-trains and destitute of fiounceS but
around the bottom were very thick white soft
rouches of white and black lace.
Black upon one and white upon the other
mingled with bOx-plaitlng OF the gauze. Trails
oflarge roses would probably give the finishing
but without fiounces, overskrts, or drapery, ex-
cept that obtained from the Yelling of the satin,
they managed to be very distinguished.
JACKETS AND CLoAKs
deserve special paragraph, for they have
taken upon themselves new forms and new
duties. The jacket of the season is small and
close-ntting, perfectly plain. no vest, sometimes
upon the short skirt OF the back, which do not
extend below its edge, English collar, square,
not large, pockets and cuffs. 1t fits like glove
always handsome They are plain and made In
cloth, velvet and velveteen, in very dark wine
and cloth colors rather than in black though
black may be and is sometimes used 1t Is not
necessary at all that this style of jacket should
be the same color as the dress. On the con-
trary it must be different to be a Ia mode. For
instance, will see dark brown with ecru, wine
color, fawn or grey dress, and invisible green
with plum color and gold plaid.
The paraS0l however, not unfrequently
matches the jacket-and quite number OF ruby
and wine-cOlOred velvet jackets have been
seen at the autumn races at Jerome Park, with
velvet parasOls to match, embroidered in leaf
and coral patterns, with ecru or maStic, the
shade Of the dress, the trimmed skirt of which
was alone visible. To conclude the description
of these toilettes it may be remarked that they
were accompanied by Pamela bonnets Of coarse
straw, trimmed and lined with velvet the shade
| OF the jacket, and mounted with high group OF
ecru or maStic ostrich feathers. The coat
| is a more dressy garment. 1t is a fanci-
| full copy OF gentleman's dress coat, some.
| times fastened down the front, sometimes
| cut away, but usually leaving very long
| narrow tails, between which may be basque
| composed of a series of fiat side plaitings or
long pun of the silk or satin Of which the dress
| is composed, and which these long panels or
| straight lappels hold In place.
The coat, like the jacket before mentioned, Is
independent OF the dress at least OF different
fabric, and only corresponds or harmonzes with
1t in color, never matches; it may indeed oner
| the most striking contrast All that Is neceS-
sary is that this color shall reappear In some
| other part OF the dress or headdresS. For ex-
| ample, a ruby velvet coat may be worn with
white satin; q dark wine color with pale amber,
| q brown with delicate pink, q rich plum with
olive, a maroon with pale lavender, &C. A coat,
| moreover, is never made plain, even OF velvet q
| jacket may be, but not coat The latter, II Of
velvet or any plain rich fabric, Is enriched with
embroidery Of gold, lat or rough, after the style