The New York herald., 1879-09-12
RULING FASHIONS.
Fall and Winter Styles Taken from
Every Era and Every Cline.
TRIUMPH OF THE PANIER.
Bewildering Novelties in Dresses
and Draperies.


and Draperies.
grand opening of fan and winter fashions win
be held At the large pattern houses to-day. the
spacious salons present exceedingly brilliant ap-
pearance and although some of the fair hgures will
neither stir speak they will yet appear lifeke
and be elegantly and fashionabiy attred what at
nrst seems to be rich material handsomely trimmed
but which on closer inspection proves to be ex-
quisiely tinted tissue paper designed according to
the latest fashion and msrvellousy arranged In
plsids. figured fabrics, fringes and laces.
Tho "RAgina" princess dress is truly superb
loilet. giving the effect Of toilet worn over
another. style which at present is perfectly a Ia
mode. The simulated upper one IL cut away above
and below the waist line, showing an inner one
trimmed with narrow founces. Another very dis
tinOue design is the Honoria This is particularly
noticeable for its elegance and simplicity and the
stylish short apron forming full paniers on the
sides. With this train is combined the 'Cornelia"
basque which is pointed both in front and at the
back and admirably in character with the rest Of
the costume.
Fashion has undergone complete revolution dur
Ing the year. TIE panier has triumphed. and grace
full bouEant drspery is the order. 1t Is visible ON
all dresses and even on outdoor garments. The
styles in walking dresses are numerous and charm
ing, and will command much admiration. The
"Hortensia," an exceedingly simple yet attractive
costume, consists of plain skirt and short polo
nsise with very boufant paniers and back drapery.
There several other novel and lovely designs in
trains. demirains Jackets and styles for misses and
children. which must be seen to be appreciated.
cLELIA WALKING SKIRT
An exceedingly novel design, combining . short
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1t the sides and bouant drapery at the back. the
Clelia walking skirt. This pattern. made Of two
materials. plain and striped forms most graceful
skirt ladylike and stylish. and so simple in its
design that the plainest seamstress cannot fail to
put It together correctly. "Anabelle" Is another
new model greatly admired. The plain skirt is of
American brocsde. in tho gendarme blue color. and
the overskirt is formed of plain silk Of the same
color. 1t is composed Of deep apron front. two
paniers and very bouffant. gracefully arranged
back drapery. Bands of the brocade border the
psniers, and form at the front and back. 1t
is dtstin0xe in effect it IL novel in design. Six
inches wide. will be required for the overskirt aud
paniers, aud six yards and half of the brocade
will be sufficient for the underskirt bands aud
revers. x
:, The short, fully drapedl apron. forming paniers
at the sides the straight plastron extending the
the back. formed by turning the skirt up on the
outside impart to this design especially stylish
in style It is arranged with pointed drsped apron
short pointed paniers at the sides, and decidedly
boufant drapery at the back. falling moderately Low
and looped in an especially graceful manner.
FALL WRAPS.
Black. dark blue. invisible green. deep wine color
dium qualities Of cloth for extra garments to be
worn with ordinary street costumes. Halt htting
The "Lorne.: may be said to be u leading design
those who still prefer the vest selecting the "Lu
The newest design in the line of mantelets-which
are the accepted garments to be worn with visiting
toilets-is the 'Felicie.. The singularly graceful
seeves, cut IN Q novel aud convenient manner form
paniers at the sides and tmpart an exceedingly DIS
hngue air. and render It equally as well suited for
posai of the trimmings being sufficient to make it
appropriate for the stylish occasions. Another
new desian is the Loretta" which has long pointed
tabs in front, pointed shoulder pieces inserted in
dolman style, and arranged SO as to produce the in
eviable panier effect by being looped into shorter
The India shawl holds o place of honor among
wraps. 1t drapes gracefully, Is harmonious with
air of distinction the whole. All kinds are wofu
long and square, the striped Or Boston and the hg-
ured styles. some lovely designs and combinations
having been introduced this season.
FASHIONABLE FANCIEs.
We have the Renaissance cravats Henri Ill. ruffs
Empire collars, Francis l. toilets and Marie Anton-
nette costumes. the long pointed Medicis basque
aud the short, full corsages OF the First Empire
Pompadour silks. antique laces. Oriental atufYs
Scotch plads, Grecian colffures. tho harng Direc-
toire and merveeuse bonnets, the close Empire
capotes. the modest Derby and the dashing Gains
borough hats, and host Of other seemingly incon-
gruous styles. Both the fst and bounant styles
are fashionable for street this season, and
sn'y Rs sn s the sr
being narrow and plain and the drapery
colors. are usually selected Tor the frst mentioned
type, and made up in the severest style, without
trimming of any kind excepting rows Of machine
overskirt very slightly draped, and often not ut all
tight half tight jacket usually slightly double
breasted with perhaps the collar and cuffs OF velvet
or plush to break the severity; the and ht
proachable, the "tailor" finish impartng n sort OF
masculine air % to the j.unsy garment, Equally fash
what exclusive type, are the costumes In which
brighter colors and contrasting goods are used.
made up In the bouan styles which characterize In
door toilets. The gsyest colors and most striking
contrasts admissible for this season.
and even when the main material Is o simple one
Of quiet color the trimmings are most usually of
some bright contrasting goods. or more often OF .
combination Of several colors.
WALKING cosruMEs
While the greatest ibersiity IL allowed In the Sc
lection Of tho style Of tho costume. on point
fashion Is tncxorablc-the skirt must be short.
Young ladies with pretty feet and who are astidous
abont their chausre. have their walking skirts made
st least three inches above the ground, but the
jority adhere Q length which escapes tine pavement
ell around and does not conspicuously display the
feet.
Plain skirts, without . vestige Of trimming are
considered most stylish: but they must be cut and
mounted with the greatest care any defect. either
in the ht or chang" is moro easily detected than
when the skirt Is trimmed. Materials OF medium
weight have usually style OF garniture, either
broad bands OF velvet, plush, satin some of the
varieties OF brocadcd silk. F1ounces walking
skirts usually from Ave TO ten inches deep, seldom
deeper IL Is fashionable to have portion of tho
plain skirt show between the hounce and the
short upper drapery. skirts plated all the way up
arc also worn the skirts being laid in regular kilt
bag plas in sections. One favorite style has the
front and sides laid in perpcndicular plaits from
Top 10 bottom and drapery ut the back; another
favorite arrangement very becoming to tall figures
has side plated hounces across the front and q
drapery ct the back.
Tight htting basquos used to complete CO.'S
tunes for early autumn wear, the design always
being selected with reference to tho arrangement of
tho skirt. when tho drapery Is very high and
bouffant basque, short on tho hips and pointed
back and front, like the Cornelia is the most ap-
propriate; or, IL becoming round waist. COM
pleted by vory broad bolt. Is chosen.
BASQUE.
Novel in design and exceedingly becoming to slen-
der ngurss Is the Sybilla basque. 1t Is tight htting.
firm avis fho ,horp pf