Centre Democrat. [volume] (Bellefonte, Pa.) 1848-1989, 1879-10-16
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
The Ruling Eashious,


olution during the year. The panier
has triumphed, and graceful. bouirnnt
drapery Is the order. II IL visible ON
All dresses and even on outdoor gar
ments. The styles In walking dresses
are numerous and charming. and will
command much admiration. The
"Hortensin," an exceedingly simple vet
attractive cogtume, consists Of n plain
SKIRT and short pol0naise with very
nouiiant paniers and back drapcry.
ihcrc are several other novel and lovely
designs In trains, demi-trains, jackets
and styles for misses and children.
"hlch must be seen to be appreciated.
An exceedingly novel design, combin-
ing short walking skirt with AN over
sklrt, having panier Mt the sides and
nouiant drapery at the back, Is the Gle
ia walking skirt. This pattern. made
Of two materials, plain and striped.
forms most graceful skirt. as ladylikc
and stylish, and so simple in It's design
That the plainest seamstrcss cannot fail
70 put II together correctly. "Annbcllen
- another new model greatly admired.
! The plain skirt Is of American brocade.
IN the gcndarmc blue color. and The
oycrskirt is formed Of plain silk Of the
same color 1t is composed Of "a dccp
apron front, two paniers and n very
boufiant, gracefully arranged back
drapery. Bands Of tho brochde border
the panicrs and form revers at the front
and back. IL IL as distiHgue in effect rs
| IT Is novel in design. Six yards and
| three-quarters OF material. twenty four
inches wide, will be required for the
oyerskirt and panicrs, and six Yards and
n half Of the brocade will be sufficient
for the underskirt, bands and reyers.
D
| wine color, almond and all the beige
/ shades are used in the medium qualities
/ OF cloth for extra garments 10 be worn
with ordinary street costumes. Half
fitting jackets have the preference for
ordinary street wear. The newest de-
sign in the line of mantelcts--which are
the accepted garments TO be worn with
, visiting toilCts-is the "Felicic." The
singularly graceful sleeves. cut in a novel
and convenient manner, form panicrs at
/ the sides and impaTt An exceedingly dis
tin9ttc air, aud render ii equally as well
suited FOR drcssy wear "a for general r.
qulrelnents, the disposal Of the trim
ming- being sufficient To make IL arpro.
. pirate for the most stylish occasions. An
other new design il the Loretta "
which has long pointed tabs in front.
. pointed shoulder pieces inserted in dol
man style, and arranged 20 as 10 produce
/ the inevitable panier effect by being
loopcd into shorter back piece.
The India shawl holds p plgrc Of
. honor among wraps. 1t drnpcs grace
fully, is harmonious with almost every
/ toilet, and the rich coloring gives AN air
/ oi distinction 20 the whole. All kinds
are worn, long and square. the striped or
Boston and the figured sty les, some lovely
. Ifu ~ al A.
introduced this season.
/ We have the Renaissance crayats.
] Henri Ill ruG<, Empire collars. Francis
|. toilets and Marie Antoinnctte cos
tunes, the long-pointed Medici4 basque
and the short full corsagcs Of tho first
empire. Pompaduur silks. antique laccs.
Oriental stUfis, Scotch plaids. Grccian
coiiiurcs, the ilaring Directoirc and mcr-
yoilleuse bonnets. tho close Empire
capotcs, the modest Derby and the
dashing Gainsborough hats, and host
OF other seemingly incongruous styles.
Both ihc fiat and bouffant styles are
fashionable for street wear .his season
and enjoy about equal popularity. and
frequently the two elements are com
bincd, the skirt being narrow and plain
and the drapcry boufiant Plain heavy
woolen goods of dark rich colors are
usually selected for the aforementioned
type. and are made up in the scyCrest
style. without trimming Of any kind c1-
ccpting rows of machine stitching near
the edges. The skirt is plain, the over
skirt very slightly drapcd, and often not
AZ all; the tight or hali-tight jacket
Is usually slightly double breasted,
with perhaps the collar and cuffs Of vel
vet or plush 10 break the severity; the
cut and fit irreproachable. the tailor
finish imparting n sort of masculine air
10 the iaunty garment. Equally FASH
ionablc. and perhaps more popular than
this somewhat exclusive type, are the
costumes in which brighter colors and
contrasting goods are used, made up in
the bouifant styles which characterize
indoor toilets. The gRyCst colors and
most striking contrasts are admissible
for street wear this season. and even
when the main material j. n simple one
Of quiet color the trimmings are most
usually of some bright contrasting goods,
or more often Of combination Of several
colors.
While the greatest liberaliiy is allowed
in the selection Of the style Of the walk
ing costume, on one point fashion Is in
exorablc--the skirt must be short.
Young ladies with pretty feet. and who
are taStidious about their ch1iLfwirc.
have their walking skirts made Mt leas,
three inches above the ground, but the
majority adhere to length which cs-
capes the pavement all around and does
not conspicuously display the feet.
Plain skirts. without a vcstige OF trim
ming. are considered most stylish; hut
they must be cut and mounted with the
greatest care. rs any defect. either in the
fit or "hanR." is more easily detected
than when the skirt Is trimmed. Mate.
rials of medium weight have usually
some style of garuiture, either broad
bands Of velvet. plush. satin or some oi
the varieties of brocaded silk. Flouncc.
on walking skirts are usually from five
to ten inches deep. seldom deeper. rs II
Is fashionable to have n portion Of tho
plain skirt show between the fiouncc and
the short upper drapery. Skirts plated
all the way up arc also worn. the skirt,
/ 4 : 4. 4 -