Daily globe., 1879-03-16
skirt. It has a moderately bouffan

plating ON the bottom. This skirt is
suitable alike for heavy or light goods,
dressy or ordinary wear, and is really an
excellent design for washing fabrics. For
dressy wear, or where combination of
materials is used, the Berenice is especial.
ly desirable. This has a short, fully
draped apron, from which revers are
turned back and carried to the back,
where they support the drapery in mod
crate pouf. Another new style, especially
suitable for supper silks and grenadines,
is the Lltta, which has the apron and side
cores puffed and the back effectively
draped. Two. and even three materials
are used in combination for street
costumes, and this applies to the simple
suits made of percale, cotton satin,
marine cloth and other fabrics for sum-
mer wear. The rule observed when only
two fabrics are used is to have the costume
itself made entirely of one goods and the
accessories ana trimmings of the other.
There is wide scope for the exercise of
much taste in the selection and arrange
ment of the goods to be used in combina-
tion, and while strong contrasts are al
lowable, good taste dictates that ar
rangements must not be bizarre in effect.
RECEPTION TOILETS.
An elegant reception toilet is arranged
with the "Rosalind' train and the
"Desiree" basque, made in moss green
silk, with the vest, collar and cuffs on the
basque of French MORE Of the same color,
satin stripe alternating with watered
one and the puffings on the front of
white crepe lisse. This dress is trimmed
with an exquisite fringe of green twist
and chenill combined, having strands
dotted with crystal beads. A very stly-
ish dress is made in chine summer silk,
dark plum and old gold colors, trimmed
with plain plum colored silk and rich
fringe in which both colors are intermixed.
The trained skirt is known as the "Gwen-
doline," and is trimmed with broad revers
on the 'front.' which are connected with
panier drapery at the sides, while the
back is looped in simple but very effec-
tive manner. The bottom of the skirt is
trimmed with Marguerite plaitings of the
the same material as the dress, headed
by chicoree ruching of old gold and
plum colored silks. The "Anatolia"
basque has plain vest in front with
broad 1evers at the sides continuing to
the back, which is much longer than the
front.
The "Paulyna" costume is designed
for young lady of fourteen, and is very
| handsome The sDotha" skirt is anoth-
er attractive style. The brenda" Jacket
is decidedly masculine in character, and
has a coat back, with the side forms
carried to the shoulders.
| FASHIONABLE MATERIALS FOR THE SEASON.
While the spring is scarcely more than
| prophecy and promise the shops are
full of seasonable fabrics. The first that
are likely to be required are heavy wool
suitings, which of late years have been
known under the general term of camel's
hair cloths, and these are now introduced
| in what are called mode colors and are
extremely soft and flexible. The surface
this season is smoother than before,
though the long hairs are not lacking.
Chashmeces are rapidly taking the place
of camel's hair fabrics, and there are
new effects IN this long familiar suiting.
Crepe cashmere has the crimped appear
ance which its name indicates and is seen
IN variety of new colors. Light woolen
goods are attractive in various shades of
beige, as gray, and not unfrequently are
flecked by threads of darker tone running
| crOsswise. Others show fine twills or
| diaper patterns, while varieties are found
exhibiting long hairs lying fiat over the
surface, these being copied from India
canels hair goods. Small and some
what indistinct checks, composed of
divers shades of gray or brown, give ad-
ditional opportunity for selection. These
materials are all wool and quite thin,
with ''fannel fnish," rendering them
soft to the touch. For travelling and gen
eral wear during the summer they will
| be found excellent. They come both in
single and double widths; prices com
| mence for the former at forty cents, and
the latter at 81 per gard.
Pekin woois display surface covered with
narrow stripes set close one to the other.
These are alterations of different shades
of brown or gray. The floral ideas of
the time also find representation in thin
silk and wool materials, designed for
spring and summer, and pretty effects
result from silken leaves and flowers on a
woolen surface. New gauzes upon a del
icate surface, display Pekin strines of vel
vet, these being narrow and having only
small intervals of gauze bct1 cen.
Sometimes the colors are the same in
both; but oftentimes gay effects result
from rich stripes on Ii ght or sober
grounds, or vSce 0ersa.
SILKS.
There is no doubt the present popular
ity Of brocades, used in combination with
plain silk or velvet, has affected the sale
and manufacture of silks proper. Never
theless, the latter class OF fabrics are al
ways in demand. American brocades
are in high favor, the supply for spring
being more varied and beautiful than
ever. The new designs show exceedingly
handsome figures. The spring styles are
| introduced in all the fashionable colors,
including several varieties in garnet
shades, navy blue, drab, wood color and
"livery" color, which has been so popu-
lar during the winter, and
when combined with velvet matching
in shade forms rich and ele-
giant costume at low price, as the bro
cade can be had at $3.50 per yard. All
| silk satins of American manufacture will
also be pupular dress materials this sea.
son. They are shown in variety of col
ors for day and evening wear, and those
in dark shades, sprinkled with white
"polka dots," are very beautiful. They
are of soft texture, drape gracefully, do
not ''crumple" easily and are twenty-five
inches wide. Their price is about $3.50
per yard. There is variety of shades in
blue, and the black, with white "polka
dot" combined with black velvet, forms a
stylish costume. Summer silks are cloud