The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1879-03-30
COSTUMES SEVERELY CLASSIC.
English mavsDent for Greek styles Of
Dress for women.
Boston TRANSCRIPT.

Every few years some enthusiastic woman
comes forward with plan Cor changing the
dress of her sex and incidentally reforming
innumarable abuses Of the laws Of health and
good taste. Amelia Hloomer was the last
person who made any converts to change IN
outer clothing and all her disciples have long
died or lost faith in her. and the costume OF
which she was the advocate can only be found
In some water cures aud few gymnasi-
ums. and possibly ut viuelnnd, N. J. Then
came the American dress reform movement
and general change In the style Of under
clothing not only In the United States. but
In England, France. and even Germany.
Thickl ~ gathered garments, with straight
seams, were replaced by others goted
and shaped TO the figure; two gar
ments were made into one and all
were arranged so that the whole weight o.
the dress hung from the shoulders, and for a
time women seemed contented. The pretty
princess dress or notifications OF It, which
did justice to good figure when worn with
underclothing was so graceful that one could
hardly believe 1t n modification of tho com
parative ugly empress" Of a dozen years ago
and was so comfortable that everybody was
loath to forego II when fashion threatened
~ substitute the sarqIe OF Louis XVI pan
niprs for It, Several English ladies' of taste
determined either tn keep their princess dress
or something very like II, and not to be trans
formed INTO the likeness Of Marie Antoinette's
maids OF honor, are strenuously urging the
adoption of the ancient Greek dress. with
very slight modicntl ns. This costume
consists Of two pieces, the chiffon AMI
hiGiation, OF shawl ms IL Is usually called
by its advocates The former Is o gov l.
which may be either high or low-nec !,
short or long-sleeyed. but which shout Tho !
scanty and should have as few seat u'eu
possible. II may be cotton, linen silk ory
en- but should be stiff. and 1t may be just
enough to touch the ground or may haT 10
train. Its color may be white. saffron. bt
gray. purple or olive green, and IL may Ii,
striped. figured or even checkerpd. The
shawl may he Of the same OF Of different ma
terial to the chiffon, and Ii simply seamless
piece OF cloth about two yards square. or ae-
colding 30 the rules laid down by some ladies'.
two yards by four The Greeks threw this
garment over tho left shoulder, brought it
round under the right arm. and then threw 1t
over tho left shoulder ae ain adjusting the
folds with as much grace as possible. The
English ladies draw two of the corners over
the shoulders, leaving long loop to fall be-
low the waist ut the back. and drawing the
edges together at the front. producing an
effect not unlike that Of an oveiskirt opening
Elantwise down the centre. This arrange
ment leaves all the limbs free and is perfectly
easy and graceful but it takes both time and
taste, and some ladies' prefer to fasten the
shawl In Its place by loops passing over but
tons on the chiffon aud its girdle, SO that IL
requires but few moments to draw It's folds
into place
The trimming Of the chiffon and tho shawl
may he OF Infinite variety, from alpaca braid
to Oriental embroidery. 1t may be wrought
Into patterns Of complicated richness or laid
on In straight bands. The proper place for 1t
Is around the lower edge of the chiffon, the
wrists Of the sleeves. around the neck. and
possibly down either side of the opening In
front. The shawl may be edged with fringe,
and may have tassels Mt the corners to hold 1t
in place, according to the ancient Greek GUS
tom, or may be left IA 1t comes from the loom.
There L. no lack Of chances to display haud-
some iewery with this dress. The shawl Ia
clasped on the shoulder with ornaments that
may be large or small as one pleases; the
glrdle may Hash with diamonds and r,lbies
may glow at throat or wrist, or even clasp the
gown from throat TO hem and the sleeves
from wrist TO shoulder. II one please, without
offending against classic taste, so that the
love OF ostentation can be gratified as easily
while wearing this simple dress MS when ar
rayed IN the regulation "suit Of four pieces 2
Several of the persons who have objected
to the costume ask why the princess may
not be substituted for the chiffon, and the an
swer to this inquiry Is that the latter Ia more
simple to make and easy to fold. aud there
fore preferred 10 the princess. although It
does not fit so smoothly. The shawl needs
no recon- incubation to any one who has once
seen it, and few who have do not hope for it's
Introduction. There is some danger that its
English advocates will create n prejudice
against 1t by calling it n dress for persons Of
culture and seeming to restrict It's use to i,
class, thus condemning 1t to an existence as
restricted as that OF the elegant pre- Raphael-
lte gowns, but 1t Is 10 be hoped that If 1t
should make It's appearance here American
women will have more sense than to speak Of
1t as the property of ~ clique. The prettiest
woman cannot wear 1t in public without at
tracing disagreeabe observation until It Is
put within the reach of all, and It's general
adoption will not detract from the peculiar
grace Of those who display most taste in it's
adjustment. However its appearance on our
shores is still . dream Of the future, and for
In nInnnDi nlnl.Innn ,.ill I'll