Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-01

Of the middle ages Or it my be ornamented
instead with an embroidery OF silk In which
beads upon lace II buttons are use1, not more
than six or eight are required and II pos sib g,
are artistic. Delicate painting or enamel are
f dse mess ND diSsngushed done after original
something distinctive In carved or inlaid pearl.
Very rich stuffs are imported for coats by lead
ing houses, and few of the best modestes in
four and nve yard lengths. Some OF these are
! brocaded and others embroidered. Some are in
stripes and others In Persian mixtures or cash.
mere colors, though the cashmere blending OF
Color Is not necessarily confined to cashmere
patterns, the range Of which is very restricted
There are mixtures In ri0h embroidered stuffs
the patterns of which are small but completely
skirts of gendarme blue velvet or some shades
! OF peacock blue, SpeckS OF which appear In all
| the more recent India patterns. They look ex-
%e asS wsa dark DS the
they are better as coats or dresses, enriched and
frightened with dark bronze and iridescent bead
elh0roioers' CASHMERE po1x.ss.
While ClOSe-ftt1ng jackets and coats have be-
| come part Of elegant indoor dress, the fitted
| garments have been retired in q degree from
outdoor service, and the dolman, or a garment
which is q sort of cross between the dolman and
utstte, only longer, and with shoulder pieces
| forming long sleeves has Saken their place
The back is narrow, and shaped so as to At the
! form, but the sleeve gives 1t the dolman appear
| ance, while the front Is Shawl-Shaped straight
and closed from the top to the bottom. The
| newest and most elegant of these garments is
! made Of cashmere cloth, a hand-wrought India
manufacture. 1t Is lined brown or bronze satin
and bordered with very thick ruching of
| fringed peacock feathers. OF course, they are
very expensive, from $3.50 to $500 each. But
silk fur lne6), seal skin and cloth clOakS follow
the same model, which is suitable only for mid
de-aged ladies', for 1t Is not at all youthful in
appearance. Fur. it must be said. has received
almost its death-blow in the long succession of
mild winters and the continued warmth of a
very remarkable october. Fur dealers and
ready cloak makers always say that no matter
how severe the latter part Of the season may be,
III 1t Is mild In the earlier portion the sales Of
warm winter garments reach much smaller
aggregate than If the contrary Is the case
COLOR.
The consideration of color has been lifted into
a higher place In the general question OF dress
by the Importance which has 81 late attached to
1t artistically and even scientifically. Still, it is
too broad and too nice q subject to be dealt with
In paragraph or Illustrated individually, ex-
they can devote to the subject all the advAn-
tage OF thorough culture and wide experience.
The best that the majority can do is to avoid
glaring faults and discrepancies by adherng to
safe dark and neutral tintS.
Certain shades OF blue are rare and very fash
1onable this season, but they are not easily OBJ
tanned. They are the old blue Of calico printed
deeper tnge OF violet. A stone blue, which has
depth but no surface brightness the duller
shades of peacock blue, In which there Is but
little green, and the gendarme blue, pale old
willow china shade which Is so often confound-
ed with others totally unlike ITSELF The darkest
shades sIla6 Of blue, the invisible, the in
are used for street Dress the lighter shades are
employed in coteline and cashmere for house
dresses, especially by. young ladies who trim
India cashmere or with Irish point and ribbons
matching in color. A great many simple cesa-
quins and polonaiSe are made of these materials
,Nlpi,,
innocent OF tiounce or plating, or ruffled black
silk skirts may be utilized in this way High
colors, and what short time ago would have
been considered extraordinary cOlors, are VEN
tured upon nowadays and no one criticises or
condemns. Very broad ribbons with stripe of
solid color down the center and a chinU or
cashmere stripe on each side are used to form
cross or diagonal lines to make part of the tab
lier to ill In the sides of the basque make one
long band down the front or back of the toilette
in any solid neutral color. Plaid silk Is used In
the same way upon wool, the plums, the
reds and other high cOlOrS In plaidS, being very
dark this season, and often shot with black or
very dark brown. Shot silks are employed just
as everything Is, by those who have a fancy for
them, but they are preferred for rich Innings, or
inexpensive fabrics such as satin de Lyon, by
elderly ladies, who remember with affection
de Lyons resembles) Of their youth. The
triumph of colors may be said to have been
achieved when it can be SO controlled and
manipulated as it is to-day, that all sorts Of
compilations wear all sorts of colors and find
them, through sk1llful blending or softening
association, entirely becoming and capable Of
adding new expression to beauty.
BEAD TRIMMINGS.
The novelties In Jet and bead trimmings and
they are very costly instead of the old-faShioned
paSsamentr1es, we have tiny beads embroidered
terms, fringes arranged as breast plates, plas-
irons and panels, beads forming the entire front
of short skirt and wrought into most lovely
leaf and arabesque patterns. The wonderful
nj StvIa nf
ornamentatiOn to any dress and produces most
-iridescent- effects. All the shades Of
amber, Of bronze, of wine, of dark green and
ruby appear separately or together, and the dark
blended masses are most effective upon black.
Amber shades upon net over amber satin are
extremely distinguished, while bronze mixed
with ruby or darker wine colors and dark green
satin or velvet lights it up Singularly like con-
cealed fire. The broad bead laces and bead en-
brOider1eS are used for side trimmings upon
for the back OF mantles or the front of boddices
The work Of making these trimmings is enOr-
NOUS They are as tine delicate, complicated
and difficult as real lace and cost quite as much
or course they are imported. The work could
not be done here and would not be, for it Is star
walton, and we have not yet the class who would
spend their time upon 1t.
BUTTONS.
Buttons have become a very important ad-
Junct and very expensive one, from seven to
ten dollars per dozen is not at all unusual, and
at least dozen and a-half are required for the
jacket Win us QOuDl6 DreaSb us lappelS, It's
pockets and its cuffs. They are not Of kind
either that address themselves very strongly to
the imaginations of the crowd. The finest are
composed of carved and 1nlaid pearl, lower
grade Of ir1descent pearl, and the commoner
sorts still, of horn, grained wood, vegetable
ivory, and the like. Dark polished horn, in
which many ShadingS are visible, are almost as
handsome as pearl and are greatly to be pre-
ferred to vegetable, ivory or painted wood
Grained and fnlaid wood are sometimes very
beautiful but painting is only admissible when
1t is very fine or associated with sentiment or
character. Buttons are principally used for
jackets or wOollen dresses, the former exhibit
them often as their only trimming, while the
latter also are rendered more or less distinctive
by their style, character and significance. When
used upon the latter, however, the employment
of them is not confined to the bodice, but ex-
extends to the side panels Of the skirt, which is
very often studded with them, and If they are
handsome and adapted to the fabric this ar
rangement upon dress of plain wool Is very
effective.
THE NEW HATS
maintain their character for originality and
brilliant picturesqe effect. The same contrasts
however, exist in head gear that are formed in
other departments of ladies' clothing, and the
most fashionable millinerS instead of mixing
them all up together, now arrange them with
some attempt at classification The finest nov
city of the season is undoubtedly what is known
as the feather" bonnet. This is composed
almost wholly Of mounted feathers, taken from
the neckS OF peasants at least half dozen of
which rpuuirpd for chanpau