The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-02-26
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

The newly imported silks Of light weight for
spring and summer goods have very dark
grounds in stylish maroon red, bottle green.
violet, navy blue, or black, with broken lines
and broken cross bars of white made up of two
or three threads. There are also regular pen.
Gil stripes and bars of white. but the broken
patterns are newest. Finer silks for rich cos
tames have satin and repped satin stripes al
ternating in two beige shades with lines of
blue or cardinal between. These satin repped
stripes are also shown in pale pink, blue and
cream for evening dresses, or else they have
broche figures on the eatin stripes between the
white repped stripes. These are to bs made up
with plain satins of the same shade. Stripes
promise to be most popular in all such fabrics.
yet there are many patterns in small figures of
fans and other Japanese designs of color on
white grounds. For trimming plain silk or
wool dresses there are very narrow lines alter
mating in all the shades.
The prettiest barred silks have clustered lines
Of three or four threads each way in the new
wine reds, green, beige, tan.colors, gray, and
black on white. There are very small bars, and
there are Still smaller checks and armure de-
signs, in the nicer qualities of summer silks
that cost $1.50 to So yard The small de-
signs of this kind are preferred for the black
and white mixtures that produce grisslle eff
fects.
Louisine silks, loosely woven soft, and flexi-
BILE, come in gay tints and rocco patterns of
Pompadour colors in stripes on cream, pale
gray, or white grounds; the plain half-nch
stripe has satin lustre, while that on which
the chintz rosebuds appear is repped There
are the old-fashioned patterns formerly seen on
challes and on organdy muslins. There are
also gay baudana plsids, instead of Scotch
tartans, shown in Louisine silks; the plaids are
not very large, but are of the brightest colors,
such as two shades of blue with olive and old
gold, or else green with garnet and white bars
about an inch square. Louisine silks cost 81 25
10 $l.50 a yard, and will be used for Pompa-
dour overdresses at the watering places in mid
summer with plain silks or else satin. The
soft Louisine silk is also shown in invisible
checks Of wine color, gray, or black on white;
these will be used for street suits for the city,
and the red wine shades are especially liked
f0r young ladies and misses.
Solid colors are most largely imported in
woolen goods; there are many Chuddsh effects,
stripes, and checks shown in the weaving, but
the single color is preserved throughout. Tan
shades prevail, and there is every gradation of
eeru tints, cream and beige colors; some of
these are SO fsintly colored that they look like
soiled white, and depend for their beauty upon
the fneness of the wool and the intricate de-
signs in which they are woven. Gray shades,
wine colors and the old-fsshioned lavender,
drab, and mode shades are shown in all these
goods. The Chuddah stripes, like herring
bones. come in smooth-fnished French goods
at S1.50 yard for double widths that measure
forty-elght inches. There are also the cameIs-
hair Chuddahs, that look like the real IDdia
Chuddahs, at So 10 81 yard; the latter are
most popular for black dresses. A novelty this
season is watered striped woolens in the new
sapphire blues. ecrn and tan shades, copying
closely the effect of the satin striped Eoires
worn during the winter; in fine wool these are
81 Is yard, and are double width. Beautiful
criuk led woolen goods like Grape are known as
zephyr armure. Cashmeres of fine quality are
plaiD and also striped in the white, cream and
beige tints, as well as quaint shades of blue,
like the new faience sud Sevres tints, turquoise
and robin 's-egg.
Among the new fannel-fnished fabrics for
summer dresses is a novelty called beige de
sante, made of very sleazily woven fine wool in
gray, tan, or beige shades of a single color, or
else in Invisible checks. This is about as heavy
as tue bunting worn last summer, but is not SO
stiff and wiry. 1t ia single width, and costs 60
cents yard. For 80 cents yard are excellent
qualities of de b-ge in cool cleav gray shades
for plain suits and travelling dresses. BuntDgs
of vsrions qualities are imported again in va
riety Of colors: the light cream, pale blue, and
pink shades will be used for little girls dresses;
black bunting is cool and pleasant wear for the
country. for travelling, and for dresses that get
hard usage.
SPRING BoNNETs
The first importations of French bonnets show
the large Clarissa Harlows shapes, with brims
that hsre above the forehead, and are tied
down closely at the sides, aud also small bon
pets with close brims lise those popularly worn
during the winter The soft crowns now worn
in caps and turbans of velvet or satin are SO
much liked that they have been reproduced in
chip and straw bonnets. These have close
fronts, and are apt to be trimmed IN Alsacian
style with large bow on top. There are also
soft crowns of Satin, either plain or striped, or
else of damssse silk in Persian patterns, used
With chip brims. Fanehons, or three-corpered
half handkerchiefs Of white satin, embroidered
in colors, and edged with Breton lace, are also
used on the crowns of chip bonnets A pecuii-
ar novelty sent over from the best French
milipers is the wine-colored chip for the entire
bonnet, or else braids of wine-color alternating
with white chip in rews on the entire bonnet.
A great deal of wine-colored satin ribbon is