Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-29
THE FASHIONS IN FURS.
WHENCE THE SKINS COME, WHO DYE THEM AN
WHAT FORMS THEY TAKE THIS YEAR.

WHENCE THE SKINS COME, WHO DYE THEM, AND
WHAT FORMS THEY TAKE THIS YEAR.
The annual production of raw furs throughout
the world is estimated in millions of dollars, and
the manufactured goods produced in one year
are valued at 81, 900. 900 O0O The fur trade of
Leipsic alone is claimed to be upwards of Sc, O0O-
600 year. Other great fur centres abroad are
London, where the best dyerS OF skins are found,
and Mini Novgorod, Russia Russia affords the
most costly furS found In any market-the Rus
sian sable, silver and black fox, and sea otter.
Choice samples of the first rarely find their way
to this country, being monopolized by wealthy
Russians, and known to the trade as ''crOWn
sable" Occasionally cloak or muff crosses the
ocean and is sold at fabulous price The best,
and consequently darkest, Russian sables are
found in kamtSchatka, YakoOtSk and certain
portions Of Lapland Russian sables from what
ever part of the country are costly inasmuch as
the martens which furnish them are not nat
urally prolific, and are yearly decimated.
The Hudson Bay Company dots the country
from Nova Scotia to British Columbia with its
trading posts, to which are sent in by Indians
and trappers enormous supplies Of the hides of
the martens termed In commerce "HudSOn Bay
sables," offers, foxes, 1iSheS-in fact, all the
furry skins that North America produces. Amer
lean dyers do not produce so choice and endur-
ing colOrs in furs except with the skins of offers
and beavers, as the London dyerS. For this
reason most OF the skins collected by this COM
pany are shipped to England to be dyed. They
are returned to be made up in New York, where,
however, foreign wOrkmen are mostly employed
as cutters. The mtcroscoplcal Germans are eS-
pectally apt in matching and fitting together
small bits. The United States Alaska Fur Com
pany, famous for its Alaska Seal-SktnS, also e H.
ploys the English dresSerS to great extent
The same may be said OF all dealers In seal-skins
Even the Shetland skins go to England for their
colOrfng. By this it is not intended to imply
that no seal-skins are dyed in this country-far
from it. American dyers drive a fiourishing
trade, but American dyed Seal-skinS can be
bought for two-thirds the price Of those dyed in
London. The fur introduced some years ago by
the Alaska Company under the name of Alaska
sable is in reality the coat of the skunk. Its
beautiful appearance and comparative cheap
ness were III its favor, and its admirers will be
glad to know that a process has been discovered
Tor thoroughly deodOrizing it.
In addition to the well-knOwn fur companies
mentioned are various other companies with
large capital in almost all quarters of the globe,
with agents in every hamlet and village which
hunters ana trappers frequent. While Ameri-
ments made Of or trimmed with the costly Rus
sian furs described, the delicate and silken fur
of the little South American chinchilla and the
Shetland skine, by far the largest number adopt
the skins obtained from the animals Of their
own country. All mink furs Canada mink are
most desirable) are ever in demand without
being classed among fashionable furs. The
favorite. So is the fur of the American lynx
when dyed in England. Nor should be forgot
ten the English-dyed Alaska sealskins which
are very durable, and the equally well-knOWn
and desirable HudSOn'S Bay SableS.
The most popular all-rur garment worn is the
seal-skin sacque. The years come and 60, and
still this becoming and comfortable garment APP
pears with few or no alterations. Never has
there been greater demand for seal skin gar
ments than at the present time according to
the statement OF every leading dealer The
truth is there is no fur to replace the seals
none so well adapted to costumes OF various
kinds or to all occasions. Sacques are made a
trife longer this season, and tit the figure more
closely than formerly. Some of them are quite
plain while others are trimmed with border
OF higher-priced fur, as black as silver fox. An
entirely new fashion this season in our gar
ments are the seal-skin dolmans, with sleeve
like sides which fold over.the fronts. Many of
these are bordered with silver otter and lined
with bright-colored satin, scarlet or old gold.
Double breasted garments are fashionable
folded straight over from the throat down Or
turned back with revers like a coat. Others
again are made with broad, cape-like collars,
and in some instances shawl-shaped.
When selecting seal-skln garments the pur-
chaser will do well to bear in mind that the
Sacque or cloak, If properly made, will have the
pile OF the fleece turning upwards; this insures
its falling backward and opening slightly, thus
showing the depth of the pile, and giving a
darker, richer appearance to the garment.
Sacques which have the finest seams are also to
be preferred, as the pile naturally wears Off
first from the seams. Sealskin, after exposure
be Immediately shaken and spread to dry where
there is no artificial heat. The heat Of the fire
Will deface It.
Fur-trimmed garments are also fashionable
and popular this season. Fur trimmings to coats
and clOaks have in fact almost displaced the
old-time boa. Silk circulars lined with fur and
finished with bands OF fur on the outside share
with silk and fur dolmans for carriage wear the
favor of fair ladies'. Cloth jackets show collars,
revers and cuffs Oh fur; indeed, fur may be seen
on all wraps excepting the adjustable and con-
venient ulster. Abroad, fur-tpped listers are
stylish and popular wrap. There being no good
reason for the absence OF a garment combining
comfort and elegance, leading New York firm
has on exhibition the novelty of a handsome
brown cloth ulster, showing bands of rich brown
sable with points OF hair tipped with white.
This will probably lead to a multiplication OF
the utility ulster, which is likely to go out of
fashion another season If not saved from be-
coming commonplace
are no changes worthy Of special remark. The
present fashion frownS on the employment of
ornate taSselS, bows of ribbons and the like
The muffs are simply lined with satin, and the
newest show apartial second lining Of fur which
serves as protection to the wrists, and makes
wriStletS unnecessary. MufTS of material to
match the dress are seen, but are usually
adopted where fur-tnmmed garment is worn,
and Of course are finished with fur
The furS most chosen for children are Siberian
squirrel, krimmer, chinchilla and coney. Err
mine, q few years ago SO popular among ladies
for evening wear, finds slow marked 1t is
never seen in the street now except on children,
for whom it is fashionable, though, because OF
Its cost, not common.-[N. 7. World.