The Portland daily press., 1879-02-17
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING MILLINERY,

oEhlNU MILLINERYs
The first importation Of spring bonnets con-
sists OF soft Eoglish straws, fine smooth chips,
and rough chips, in ivory white, beige brown.
gray, and black. The shapes are quite large.
with ample square crown and a broad brim
that far's widely above the forehead, bat
clings closely to the Sides These are similar To-
the Clarissa Hatlowe shapes that were intro.
duced last year for summery gypsy.like bon
nets, and have been repeated for very dreRsy
hats during the winter. The small cottage and
Alsacian shapes that are now so universally
worn do not appear 10 these earliest importa-
lions, and the rumor is that they will be laid
homsvsr ,SSntirely ,Sire too small for summer use:
80 a..,,,r - ess so 90 neat and becoming, and
oy ' sosad at home, that Ia
dies will be loath to give
large shapes are TO have bows wfSss
ping loops, strings that pass across the f5r-rs
tie the sides down closely to the ears, and bous>
quets Of flowers put in most prominent places,
as single cluster inside the front, and another
outside on the top or back of the crown. These
bouquets will be of mixed flowers with long
stems and very little foliage.
English shapes of dozeu different varieties
will be used for the round hats that are worn in
city streets, while those of the out.of town
have wider brims that are turned up in irregu-
lar fashion, somssiues directly above the fore
head, or else one-hah the brim Is turned up-
wards on the left side, or it may be only o
quarter between the front aud side is rolled.
The Derby aud Oxford hats with narrow brims
or else fatty turned up sides are very largely
imported. There are also turbans of the pretty
ohax, oxwNr ok uuhs l.
the Da Vinc, like the cap with wide rolled
brim and bell crown seen In pictures Of Leo
nardo da Vieei. Jsunty little iocky cap, Of
straw are shown for children-for boys and
girls alike. The deep wine-tinted red shades
are to be much used for trimming these hats as
navy blue has long been. A yellowish- white
braid jockey cap is very pretty, with q band
of wine red gros grain ribbon, wiis binding
of the same around the visor and the back, and
q raveled ribbon rosette to match, directly ON
top Of the crown. Blue, hunters green, seal
brow q, and blsck trimmings are used in the
of braid in blue, brown, olive, red, or black.
with white. For larger girlsare pretty little hats
with brims dropping on the sides In what is
called the Lotus shape. Sailor shapes are still
shown for misses aud children.
The names of spung colors supplied in
French invoices are very suggestive. The new
blues are called faience blue aud Sevres blue.
comprising many pale aud dark shades Of pure
tone, while the new icebsrg blue may be clss-
sed with green as well; there are also turquoise,
peacock and Sapphire blues that have q great
deal OF green in them. Tha new green is CALL
ed r0sesu (reed), and is the pale eray-green
Seen ln reeds and water-grasses The white
used is ivory, and the yellow and brown shades
are tes-rose, maize, old gold, beige, aud marion
or chestnut-cOlor. There is a great deal Of
argent, or silver gray, which is contrssted with
other colors Grenat, naosrat, and cardinal
reds will be used IN mostcombinations.
The materials to bs used bv mIlluers for
crowns and for trimmings cot from the piece
are pekin gauzes, jsrdiuiere silks, and sauns of
light quality. The pekin gauges have narrow
bsskei-woven gauze stripes alternating with
repped, satin or brocaded stripes; other gauzss
have open blocks an ioch square In lacs-like
patterns with closer woven blocks between.
These gauzes come in ivory white, Seyres blue,
roseau, and all the new shades OF one color,
and also In contrasting stripes. Velvet-striped
gsozes aud checks OF velvet on gauza are also
shown; sometimes the velvet is in two Scotch
colois, such as bars of blue and green velvet on
black gauze; these will trim black very effeot-
lively; the velvet stripes Vary from the merest
pencil line TO inch-wide stripes. Some Of the
richest gauz.s have brocaded stripes. The
jardniere silks for bonnet crowns have tiov
flowers embroidered on them. The satins are
rs SOFT as iouisrd, and have white tracery that
resembles lace or embroidery. Ssvr.s blue
satn with ivory lace-like designs IS especially
handsome.
Breton lace will be used as trimming on bon-
nets made up Of the materials Just described;
it will be used in cream white, ivory, and the
b'eached shades now in vogue as plestings for
the back of the crowu, as Alsscian resettes for
the top, aud as an edging for tulle strings.
A chapter might be written about ribbons. so
great Is the variety shown. Tue ribbon known
to milliners as No. 16 will be used for trimming
10 preference to materials cut bis s; this trim
ming width Is about two aud a half or three
inches wide; there is an effort also to use still
wider ribbons. The pekin Tor striped) and the
jardioiere Tor brocaieG) ribbons are most large
ly imported. The striped ribbons co me 10 gauze,
gros grain, and brocades OF two tones of one coll
or, aud in many quaiotly pretty contrasts that
recall the old fashIoos of a hundred years ago.
New reversible ribbons have one side of plain
ssus, while the other is striped in contrasting
colors, or else has brilliant Persian b.ocado
upon it. Very soft satin ribbons havs q bro
caded border down each side, or else the border