The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-11-22
THE DAILY STAR
LADIES WINTER WEAR.
Fashion Points and Toilet Notes
in the Metropolis,
Intelligentiy Compiled by One
Who Knows All About Them.
New YORK, Nov. 20.


New YORK, Nov. 20.
Special Correspondence of the Star.
Among the many new shades in vogue
at present is kind of changeable greer
called "reine Claude" A faille toilet il
this color shading off sapphire blue, which
is one of the newest combinations, is made
with a skirt trimmed like an apron, with
very small tluted flounces, placed on bias
and surrounded by two draped "quilles
The lower part of the skirt is trimmed il
the back with futed flounce. Above j.
trimming consisting of puff drawn il
about the knee, and then plated in large
flat plaits falling to the top of the flounce
The waist is cut in "habit," with large
square ends of sapphire-colored satin COW
cred with rich designs in "reint
Claude The ends are lined with
sapphire-colored satin. Around the
neck and sleeves is a shell-shaped
lace trimming, which also forms
the jabot The bonnet made for wear
with this toilet is an Empire" shape Of
black satin. The brim is covered with
jet, and two small paroquets are the only
trimming on the crown. They are blue
and green, and are placed close together.
This description is to give an idea of the
elegance of many Of the present toilets.
Much more simple styles are, however,
extensively favored. The "genre tail
leur' style continues in vogue, and has
not changed in shape. An English
checked or plain cloth may be used. The
skirt is short, with deep plated founce.
The tunique is composed of two breadths
of goods; one is cut up in bias on either
side and draped over the front of the
skirt, the other forms puff in the back.
The basque of the jacket is turned back
in revers. Down the front are two rows
of plain large buttons. The garment has
simply two rows of stitching. This
makes very useful and economical
suit.
The rich fabric called "travail du
chale de PInde," and which has all the
coloring, softness and elegance of the
India shawl, is among the very expen-
siye articles. Some of these are worked
with gold. A very elegant kind of vel
vet, called "peau de lion," is used for
waists and casaquins. This material
comes in several colors, and is very ex-
pensive. Bronze colored "tafetas glace,'
shading off ruby color, is also among the
fashionable fabrics. Many toilets of this
kind have jackets of Pekin in the same
color.
In addition to the many different
kinds of beads in use at present, the
richest looking of all are the cachemire
beads. They are very brilliant, and look
like many tiny golden beetles. The
beads are the novelty of the moment,
and all kinds of designs are formed of
these, which may be combined with any
color, especially indien broche, garnet
and black. A jacket made of indien
broche, with the collar and cuffs of seal
colored velvet covered with cachemire
beads, has superb effect. A velvet
dress trimmed with these beads is also
very elegant. Handsome silk and bead
cordings are also in great favor. They
are used on all parts Of the toilet.
Dresses are bordered with cordings, as
they were some years since; the outer
garments have these trimmings, and
they are extensively employed as
around the waists. For
the last-named purpose the dress
must be perfectly flat in front, and the
waist pointed. The cordeliere is then
placed double a little below the waist
in the back; the two ends are taken
through the buckle over the end of the
point of the waist, and the tassels fall
over the skirt. This is called "ceinture
Ruy Bias" Sometimes these cords are
hemp color, made of silk, with elegant
tassels. Every one has seen the portrait
of Louis XVII, representing him with
velvet coat and fine batiste shirt, with
a fat collar, and plaitings down the
front, and the jabot also plated and
taken back over the sides, forming revers.
This shirt is not fastened even to the col
lar. 1t is this shirt which has been
copied, and is made in many ways for
ladies' wear. 1t is often only made in a
guimpe, and collar. Full Lace trimmings
replace the jabot; surah replaces the ba-
tiste; but in which ever way they are
made, they are always the "Dauphin"
collar. The small cuffs match the collar,
and are placed on the inside of the
sleeves, and turn over on the outside.
Large Mazarin collars are also worn.
They are particularly favored for chill
dren, in which case they are very large.
This collar is much used for ladies'
wrappers and night-dresses. For even
ing dresses this collar is made of rouched
or plated lace, either black or white.
The collar is fastened by large bow Of
satin ribbon.
Another novelty is the "collier archi-
duchesse," made of passementerie with
finely cut beads intermixed, and PEN
dants Of beads placed very close together.
A white plating is on the inside Of this
necklace, which is placed over the collar