The New York herald., 1879-03-10


the scene where Pliny witnessed the destruction
of the cities of Sorrento and PoInpeii, tho
range OF shining hills. the convent looking
down from beetling crag, which we climbed
one December day; the anchorage of the Vandaa.
and above all the towering volcano from which came
smoke and haine-it was as If we were meeting old
friends. We into the harbor and old friends
came on board in the person of Mr.. Maynard, our
Minister TO Turkey, and Mr.. Duncan. Consul to
Naples. The Doctor and went ashore to make sure
of teegraphic message that it my duty to send.
but it late in the afternoon that none of the
party followed our example, aud as the sun went
down steamed out to sea- The last We saw of the
city was vesuvius. the smoke resting above it in
dense wavy cloud and the flames flashing like bea-
in the calm summer air.
THROUGH THE MEDITERRANEAN.
On the morning of the 10th, the Sabbath. Mr..
Borie who earned the first prize for early rising.
came to my berth and said that StromboH was in
sight. Last year when we sailed through these
islands Stromboli drenched in showers and
mist, and when Lieutenant Strong pointed out the
volcano from the quarterback OF the Vandalia all
could mass Of rain and fog. But here we
were sailing under the shadow of this ancient and
famous island. What we saw q volcano throw
ing ont ashes and smoke in feeble fretful manner,
though jealous of its flashing rva. in Naples Bay.
and cluster of houses at the base. evidently
village: can understand good many puzzling
an Independent city. why New Jersey does not
become annexed to Pennsylvania and New York;
why Ohio man may resign ofice-but cannot
conceive any reason for human beings living in
Stromboli They are at the absolute mercy OF the
and the furnace; they are far away from neigh
bors and refuge and rescue. 1t must be to crafty
poetic instinct. for Stromboli is poetic enough.
And now are coming with every turn Of our
screw, into the land of classic and religious fame.
These islands through which we sailing
the islands visited by the wandering Ulysses.
This rock that we study through our glasses
in the gray morning light is the rock of
Scylla and we sail over Charybdis This town that
looks very modern, on whose white roofs the sun
shines with dazzling glare Is Reggie, which in holy
days was called Rhegium 1t was here that Paul
landed after Syracuse and Malta adventures. carry
ing with him the message of Christ going from this
spot to preach the Gospel to all mankind.
FAREWELL TO EUROPE.
We pass Etna the lett, but the mighty noun
tain wrapped in mist aud cloud and We sail
through the Messina Straits, the sea scarcely rip
ping. and we are soon again i'll the open
sea- the land fading from view. On the second
morning we pass close to Crete and the snowy
mountain ranges that glorious and unhappy
island. At noon they fade the line of snow becoming
line Of haze and as we bid Crete farewell we say
farewell to Europe, for we head directly toward
Egypt and the Red Sea and India, and who knows
what beyond. Farewell to Europe and farewell to
many bright and happy hour spent its shores. Of
which all that now remains is the memory.
EOTIIEN.
On the evening of the 18th Of January-this being
the evening of the seventh day OF journey from
arseilles-we came to an anchor outside OF the har-
Dor of Alexandria. There was some disappointment
that we did not enter that evening. but were an
hour late. and swung at anchor and
found what consolation we could in the enrapturing
glory of an Egyptian night. In the morning when
the sun we picked our way into the harbor,
and when we came on deck we found ourselves at
anchor, with Alexandria before usher minarets
looking almost gay in the fresh light of the morning
a boat came out about eight, bringing General
Salvage, Consul in Alexandria, and Judge Morgan,
of the international Tribunal General Stone came
with kind messages from the Khedive and the hope
we might be able to come to Cairo. But this was
not possible, had to connect with our English
steamer at Suez. and Suez was long days journey.
SO all that was left that should pull ashore
rapidly possible and drive to the train. The
Consul General, with prudent foresight, had ar
ranged that the train should wait for the General.
and thus it came that ride through Egypt, from
Alexandria to .Sucz, was during the day, and not
otherwise would have happened during the long and
RAILRoADING IN EGYPT-sUNNY, SANDY suEz-
PYRAMIDS PLENTIFUL, BUT NOT SO THE oMNI-
BUSES.
SUEz Jan. 80, 1879.
dated my last letter at Alexandria, although there
was for doing We only remained long
enough to allow me to ask Mr.. Salvage to post it
You must not be particular about dates and places
in this correspondence. must have date and q
place for each letter just you have peg for your
hat, but what try to do is to give you much OF
the history of our journey around the world may
interest friends at home. with impressions of the
people and the lands see. The only value
these impressions have is small one
1t is simply the old places with new
eyes. When tell my story of the East. as have
had occasion to do before, feel how much remains
to be told, and how feeble all efforts to picture
these changing scenes. which change from hour to
hour; for every hour brings farther from oul
civilization and civilization which ages
ago the marvel and the glory of the world.
THROUGH THE FIELDS DESERT
Pleasant it to Egypt again, although
only saw it through the windows Of hurrying
train. Pleasant, too, it to land in quiet. unos
tentatious fashion, without pomp and ceremony
and pachas in waiting and troops in line. the blare
of trumpcts and the thunder of guns The escape
fort to the General. who seemed to enjoy
having ones hands to shake. to enjoy snug cor
in ordinary railway car talking with General
Stone and Mr. Borie and the Consul General The
train waited half hour for us. aud would have
been detained longer but for the energy and genius
shown by Hassan-our old friend Hassan, who ac-
companied on the Nile. Hassan down to
meet the General in his full consular uniform. and
when he found that train waiting. and that wo
were behind, he took command at once. There was
not an IDLE ARAB on the quays VINO was not pressed
into the service by Hassan, and shortly after we
reached our station our bags and bundles came
after us in kind of procession-a hur-
red. scrambng procession. Hassan. in high words
stick in hand calling OUTLET us hope--words Of sym
pathy and encouragement. Hassan, a. the official
guard Of tho Legation. wearing q sword, ia an au-
thority to the utmost in having traps and par
cells carried from the wharf to the train. Our rido
to. Suez was without incident, and Egypt seen
from the car windows was tho same Egypt about
which much has been written. The fields were
green. Inc air was clear ana generous. The train
people civil When Arabs gathered at our doors
to call for backshecsh in tho name of the
prophet Hassan made himself, not with
out noise and effect. bcncfcont innu-
cnce. The General cbatted with st me about school
times ut West Point, about friends, about the new
days--and fears the evil days-that have fallen
upon His Highness the Khedivc Mr. Borie made
various attempts to the Pyramids from the cars
and talked over excursions that some of had
made. and We came near remaining i'm Cairo for
another steamer to enable him visit the pyramids
aud the Sphinx. and the Serapcum ut Memphis,
I,rr rt.I In
late for India. and Mr. Borie would not consent to
the sacrifice of time on the Generals part, and
keep on to Suez.
suEz AND SEA.
The sun s down, and the lingering shadows Of
Egyptian sunset light up the desert and the Red Sea
with u variety of tints. and the sky is n dome of
glowing lght-so intense and clear and that 1t
affects you like music-as into Sucz. There
friends the dusky boys and Arabs In muslin,
and a tall Arnh with a turhan carrxi nu "a lantern