The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-03-17
A Day in Havana.
Harper's Magazinc.l

IlC ID NlSt WHO hudpGS ulHlScll dG oHCt
to the leisurely modes of the natives.
This fervid climate will not be trihed
with. Rise at six. The early morning
is delicious. Take only cup of coffee
and hard biscuit, and start out for a
walk to one of the many churches whose
discordant chim7s ring out a noisy vel
come. Then visit the markets. That
upon the Campo del Mario is the most
picturesque. Here all the products of
this fruitly isle hang in masses of rich
confusion.
Close by the battery at the end of the
Prado a peculiar and exciting scene may
be witnessed every morning. Here the
surf rolls up with free stride against the
shore. just where little bay is formed
in the coral rock several hundreds of
horses are undergoing an inspiriting sea-
bath, or awaiting their turn in long lines,
tied head and tail, upon the shore.
Without this refreshing process the
horses soon droop under the climate, and
even with it they are all sleepy and sad.
Perhaps it is partly owing to the prepos-
ferrous style of harness in use.
At 9 or 10 o'clock breakfast is to be
eaten, beginning with fruits. Then a
ride until midday. Your guide will go
to sleep while he talks. Somnolence is
the normal condition of everybody in
waiting. Take the hint and indulge in
sesta until about 3. Then, if man,
you may smoke the soothing cigarette
until dinner which must be conducted
in lcisurely style, cheap red wines
taking a prominent plrce.
Business hours with merchants cease
by general custom at an early hour. AT
ter o'clock i'll the afternoon the Prado
and avenues leading towards the Cerro
present the gay effects we Northmen as
cribe to festive occasions only. Our
country women may be distinguished in
the throng by their hats. The Cuban
ladies disdain the use of further orna-
mcnt for the head than that affected by
an elaborate coiifure. Their forms arc
swathed in light muslins, and many are
seen wearing the lace scarf of CASTLE
| penClent from masses of dark hair knot.
ted at the back of the head The real
social life of Havana is best revealed,
however, after dark. Then a motley
throng surgcs through the canopied
streets towards the cafes, the theaters and
the public squares where splendid mill
tary bands discourse stirring and, to us
novel Spanish music. In the brilliantly
lighted cafes one must wait often FOR 8
vacated chair. Stupendous and strange
looking bibular compounds are PLACED
before the drinkers. :.
The leading theater, as all the worlc
has heard, is the Tacon, the auditorium
being not unlike those of many of ou'
American play-houses, 1t is very large
having three galleries. The play bein!
conducted with rapid movement upol
| the occasion of our only visit, our limit
ed stock of Spanish proved inadequate II
the duty of criticism. .....
An odd custom prevails at another the
, alter of the vaudeville stripe. The write
was one of n determined quartette whicl
: held its own with a crowd in front OF
wicket for half an hour or more Havin
4 purchased the requisite tickets, we wer
= compelled 10 breast the outflow Of hu
nanity coming down the one narroN
d. stairway al the end of the first act Hay
| ing gained our box, we were permitted t
1 enjoy single act of farce, in which tn
e leading dramatfs persona were a superat
/ tive soldier in very red and baggy pants
e looms and an irate matron OF muscula
: tendencies. This act lasted twenty mil
utes. The fate of the heroine remain
shroudcd in mystery, for we shortly di
r covered that our term of lease had e.
pired, and our box was wanted for al
other party. We should have gone dow
p to the ticket Office and engaged our plact
+ anew for the ensuing act.