The New York herald., 1879-10-15


with another exclusive taste-that of badges and
that for perfume only. of which The emsnations
do announce the wearers presence even when un'
seen.
ARABvs PERFUMES.
am afraid the union of many such unseen midi
vidsah6s viii result in very strong smell wherever
they assemble. 1 am asked. when such matters as
these are laid open TO my Judgment tand objections
will arise. in the matter Of ocular transmuta-
tion). What is the harm if contending scents do
create strong smell? Well. ladies in the heat OF
emanations and supreme scent with view to neu-
tralize all others, likely TO forget that their
brothers. fathers and husbands have nerves that
nothing enervates so much as perfume Nero knew
this; he had double ceiling over his benqueting
board on Mount Palatine and at given word this
artificial covering was drawn open in order to give
passage to cloud of Bengal petals. which. fall
ing all his guests, their reclining couches and
patrcian bosoms did so perfume the tepid atmos-
phere that II nebriated much the fumes of de-
licious Tuscany vines. There are. besides few
natural perfumes; if we except roses and spices.
volets and herbs nearly all scents composed and
thus called ''bouquet." Sweet mignonette has
been approached by rtstda and of the most fra
grant essences derived from inodorous matter
such gas dung. rotten egg. sc. There other
considerations besides for instance coquette who
adopts mown hay her emblem and who
wishes to be detected in room, though perhaps
hidden by a pastiere screen. is sure
to be asked after by her lover who will inquire
her scent is perceptble to the where
abouts of his Hay; and what animal will he look
like as he goes shifting from corner to corner.
But to return to gems. rubes admirably
initiated pearls, ana in unheard Of prorusion on
embroideries for lace purposes. Women sigh for
the historical ruby given by Gustave III of Sweden
to tho then Czarna of Russia. 1t was. dit the size
Of pigeons egg. remember one formerly in the
possession of that extraordinary "orginar the Duko
of Brunswick. 1t was engraved. and weighed fifty
three carats. But it is at Mexico that the finest are
viewed. though the number exceed their beauty
The cathedral church there is paradise of rubes.
1t is said that Romo, dare not put
approximate value them, and know
Rome generally tell her treasures il she
don't. That priceless gem. Miss Burdett Coutts,
has one of the most precious rubies known
in the world. but these mentions only prove
how rare uncommon ruby is, for their owners
nifcance they have; let ladies quietly beam in
fashionable glow be it false real to look on one
attire much as possible Like mellow old painted
window with calm sunlit CLEAN shining through.
is all people now care for.
But we shall initiate Babylon if we overdo color
ings all this sweet smelling all this gold, all this
elaborate incrustaton all this perce metal all these
hangings. these brocades, these towering galoons
Of multicoiored crystal beads and the fringss
jewish They came in with Solomon, went over to
ByZance thence to Italy and here abound III tawdry
tnsel imitation. And our birds whence come they
with the rainbow tints of angels wings their
downy breasts? We have tremendous birds the
new hairy telts and on the back of drawn crowns.
Nevertheless plain ribbon trimming is much
admired only the strings must bV from five to six
inch wide and of the glossiest kind.
HEAD GEAR MODE.
An! there is nothing of the wisdom Of Solomon in
our hats. Up 90 the cabriolet pokes leaving room
for whole family to sit down inside between the
forehead and outer RIM the sides sit closely to the
cheeks so the face is completely encrcled and, am
told, snugly. Anyhow it looks snug. especially a
turned up in the middle OF it ALL All the art
displayed In hat is shown about the Innings Of
these progressive rims. The latest idea Is to pin
down the strings on ones BOSOM Nice and prim
this but our nosegays are removed to the shoulder
10 wear orange blossoms epaulettes is the brides
pride. and thin ladies 1--WE all thin now hide
flower knots. No say how the stout
and short necked have managed their anatomy. but
every lady has slender throat and waist now. 1t
is therefore. the height of fashion this fall to
a short Venetian pelcrine with an outrageously
straggo'up straight collar that rises up above the
1t is always lined with tho shade used for
slashes; If the toilet be scabieuse let the lining and
slashes be turquoise blue The success of drawings
and gathers is monumental. II is a womanly and
deft fashion. for it shows industry, care, trmness,
and throws down gauntlet In the very face Of ma
tron, do that" or machinery WILL but
meanwhile the mantuamaker has earned her bread,
and her poor little needle has kept ahead of the busy
tictac which leads the harvesting when 1t does not
follow to CLEAN. have broye aud paon
toilet on which the paon formed. trimming. The
DrOy6 ktuu was Vlcuna ana the p8Ou Satlu. Inc
latter laid dowr in band of fiat folds that sud
denly went on in runnings. then in
killings and then in narrow puffs. so that
every kind OF needlework displayed,
and tho variety repeated on cuffs, &c. Another
make is that of futed drawings. The material is
laid horizontally the width OF trimming required
and in blocks: the ends right and LETT huted.
Endless blocks are placed about plain tabber
width third mako is that called deux etages
trois etages, &C. These etages are formed by two
three runners that fall the other There is
the short hounce. too just over the stomach, and
used for enlivenng the train. The 9arde fiancatse
jacket fastened side OF the bosom is maze to
Wall OF Troy squares bordered with bead
fringe One of the graceful styles or the season and
totally fresh Is an overmantle having fulled-in
sleeves round the armhole which fall loops OF
satin epaulette. The fronts spirals of Breton
lace that roll round, detached like a boa of foam.
The collar has '.matelot cut 1t made of eotieane,
or "Messina." dull kind of Sicilienne. Among
the prettiest fashions of the season are cordons
of natural flowers, which cross the bosom from the
right shoulder to under the lett arm and Others
worn like bracelets round the arms. These floral
decorations ornament gentlemen when their part
ners waltz and typiiy the poets desire, De porter
guiIiande les deu1 bras de la femme quos
diD,e." AS to artificial flowers, we have u hiaeous
chocolate and q green The latter is like
young cabbage. At all garden parties ladies adopt
uniform costumes-all white all blue. all red. all
violet, cap and all. These are well carried out. OF
ter and seal are already worn in bands. couturier
the Velasquez Of fashion styles. is revivng tur in
all the antiqu models One of the actrices
famed for their beauty adopting them in
bination with palo satin. A few cashmere muffs
have boon viewed The evergreen oak shade ia
worked on velvet, with chenille of d soft brown and
with gold for monogram muifs. Vigogne glac6
makes up beautifully with the shot satins. Otter
and sapphire good mixtures.
In such place as France. where the nation
leans toward prestige and hangs willingly to
its rulers by way OF habit curiosity is keenly ex-
cited by those who for the time hold the helm of
executive power. The family of NJ. Grevy neces-
sarily are point de re. and revelations have trans
pired concerning tho only sympathetic person in
that circle. II Is Mile Alice. the Presidents daugh
ter She Is a curious girl enough tor the daugh
OF French man OF law. NJ. Grevy had long wished
for boy before her birth. and when she born
coinforted himself by dressing her i'll brooches.
The taste for manly attire lasted until she was
twenty ive and her last manly suit was made ut
Mont-sous-Vaudrey. the country seat OF NJ. Grevy.
The pcasantry love her and know none but her. hor
father and mother never leaving their home to
minglc among the rustics of the locality. When
Mile. Alice. ruegidturd not in male attire she
dresses as a paysanno aud draws on wooden shoes;
her hat Is beaver adorned with cocks feather. and
her hair is rolled low on her neck. Sho sometimes
moves from Mont-sous-Naudrcy to Salns, u few