The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1879-10-01
THE FASHIONS.
Black sillk Costumes.
Frank Leslie's Lady's Journal. I

In the black silk costumes that have
come out combinations of varieties of silk
textures are notably apparent. The novelty,
and the most prominent silk fabric for the
foundation Of the confection, is plain satin
de Lyons, or the satin-faced gros-grain tex
ture to which allusion has previously been
made. The most approved fabric to be used
in combination with this is the satin bro
cade or the satin de Lyons brocade-the dis
tinctive pattern of the stuff relieving u satin
ground. But the use of the satin-brocade on
the satin-faced silk is not universal, nor must
it be thought inevitable. Very elegant con-
fections are of armure brocade, and the gros-
grain brocade on foundation of the satin de
Lyons, vice versa, handsome and faultless
combinations of plain gros-grain or faille,
relieved by satin or armure brocade, or used
in conjunction with these peculiar foriated
textures. Nor, in this connection, would we
have our friends to forget the polka and the
satin-striped silks now fashionable. Some
of the most attractive dresses that have APP
peared this season are combinations of these
silks with the satin de Lyons and the plain
falle; while the dotted and striped black
silks are in special demand for the relief eff
fects which now distinguish costumes Of col
ored materials. Indeed, for in use black silk
dresses for street wear and the promenade,
polka-dotted and satin striped silks are in
popular request than the foriated, because
better adapted to the making of the vest, the
collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, facings, ETC., which
give expression to the styles of the present
in costames for autumn outdoor wear.
In costumes for the house and carriage
wear, foriated brocade most generally OBJ
tains as the combining silk stuff. An at
tractive model for dinner and visiting is a
combination of satin de Lyons and satin de
Tho clyi rf &c
and the trssin rounded. Three knife plaitings
of the plain silk four inches wide, bordesthe
skirt, and plsitings of the same width cover
the entire tablier, being sewed in with the
side-gore seams. The overaress is of the
brocade. The waist in front is elongated in
deep double paniers, which open over tie
plated tablier, and after being curved over
the hips, lose themselves in the bouffante dra-
perry of the princess back. The neck opens
en- surplice, under fichu folds of the plain silk,
and drapery folds of the plain silk, caught
down by rich bow of the plain silk, doubled,
is the finish of the elbow sleeves. The trim
ming on the paniers and the tournure is a
very rich fringe of chenille and cut jet tassels;
plsse of wide B-etonne lace over a plisse
of crepe lisse fills in the sleeves, ard narrower
plisses of lace and Grape lisse all IN the
neck-a bow of doubled silk, set at the point
of the Y garinshing the corsage. Varying
this model are shown dresses with, the tab
licr covered with three or four side plaitings
and the plaitings sfnothered under rich
fringe. When this is the style the trimming
of the train is different, or the train is unbor-
dered and dependent for effectiveness upon
graeefulness of drapery.
To great extent the princess style,
modiied in the changes of the mode, will
prevail for all dresses intended for she haute
toilette, though the basque waist has not been
discarded. Various notifications of the
basque appear, while the round Josephine
waist or the round front, bolted across from
the side seams, shows the latitude allowed
by fashion in adapting the cut of the waist
to the peculiar fancy or to the figure of the
wearer-
BLACK CASHMERE COSTUMES
Blaoi, cashmere costumes are prominent
importations for street wear. These are all
made up over, or, in combination with black
| silk; bat, as n general thing, the silk is so
hidden by the woolen stuff rs to make it
really unnecessary in tie confection except
| for relieving effect. All these dresses have
the shozt round skirt. The foundation is OF
silk. The skirt is bordsred by killing OF
the cashmere 10 or y inches deep, and two
kiltingSof equal depth cover the taSlier; or
above the killing which.borders the skirt are
two or three scarf appliances folded. across
the front and side cores, and drape6 in the
center under fots or dropping bows of gros.
| grain or satin ribbon. Plain side cores OF
/ paniers, bordered by silk or satin facing
| dozen ever the tablier, and are drawn back
into the bouffante drageyy of the touTnure
The whist is a deep jacket with ths- plastror
front, orrcut away and made with a rolled
collar 70 display vests the basque is of the
Louis XIV. extension style; and On the hip;
are deep square outside pockets, or pocke
flaps SHELTER an inside pocket. TIE relieving
| effects on these costumes are os the silk
satin OF other material brought into con
junction with the cashmere, while the con
fiction, appears distinctively os the cash
mere.
CLeAKs.
Fopgeneral service the prineesse sacqu,
cloak will be that of most important consid
eratisn; the dolman mantle and the Tisit
retain. favor for mere dressy wraps. Th,
latest modification of the princesse sacaue i
sinGe-breasted, with a rolled collar roandet
in contour, the fronts meeting about tn
center of the bust, closed over the wais
with three or four buttons, and cut away il
gentle cure from the belt line. Fi,se seam
and the seams running up to the shoulds
seams, are still seen in the hacks os fmpbrte,
clsalis; but the inclination is toreturn to tn
back with three seams, ths side-body sean
csrving::into the arm hole. The front of III
single breasted sacque is quite closely fste
by single dart, sloping TO the lines Of tn
figure over the bosom and following to tn
waist in the centre of the front. Double
breasted sacaues are most generally half o
three-fourths fitted, though we see them ais
. with the loose front-the front straight G
cut away as the fancy may direct, and th
neck finished with the rolled coat-collar
Plain beaver and diagonal cloths of yer
} soft, close texture are preferred this seaso
) for cloak-making to cloths of basket an
matelasse textures, while an occasional wra
T of figured cloth shows that the varieties III
derstood have not been entirely discarde
Serviceable wraps are of soft, messy, ecr
gray and brown camels'-hair cloth, and sin
t liar textures in black show an unwilling d
parture from the velvet beaver and the chm
ella cloths of the past.
The more simple of sacques are fnisht