The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-04-09
IHarper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
CHILDREN's DRESSES.

| anu tney also select IN Paris appropriate mod
els for these juvenile garments. One of these
pretty fabrics is the new checked tamise cloth
"A soft smooth wool stuff like that formerlv
known as delaire, yet woven in checks and
bars of bright colors, such as pink with blue
ecru with deep red, aud other gneham-like
patterns. Grape srmure is another WOODEN
goods of solid colors In cripkles like Grape, ex-
cellent for spring suits, and for walking coats
OF very small children. The nice French bunt-
Ing, as soft as flannel, and of fine wool, are
chosen for girls dresses in the new dark wine
red, cream, tan-color, pale blue, or tie popular
gendarme shades. For palmer dresses the
gray, olive, or brown beige de sante with fau-
mel finish is chosen. A beautiful new fabric,
called camels-hair armure, Is the finest wool
in tiny diaper figures; this comes in white,
cream, fray, and pale blue, and is SO a yard for
double-wdth goods. The summer Chuddah
cloths of very light weight are also used for
youthful dresses: the checked Panama tweeds
are of the same quality, aud make serviceable
dresses for general wear, especially in the clear
gray and cream colurs checked with white.
Most of thsse nice wooden goods are made up
in conjunction with striped or brocaded silk for
borders, vests, collars, and cuff, and the coloTs
chosen are those considered most stylish for la.
dies; thus young girls dress of the pretty
gendarme blue cashmere, sold at rs cents a
yard, will have the accessories of brocaded silk
and wool in gendarme and old gold colors, or
tan-colored cashmere will have satin revers and
vest of the same shade, piped everywhere with
the brightest poppy red satin, or else the trim.
ming will be broad bands Of polka dotted fou-
lsrd, either brown or blue ground with white
spots. For more dressy suits the barred Louisine
silks in wine-color or dark green are very pref.
ty, or else the chintz foulards are used with
gay flowers on cream or pale Sevres blue
ground
The new French dresses for small girls are
still shown all in one piece, but they are fuller
than those of last season. Instead Of giving
princssse effect, they look like long cut-away
coats with the deep franklin vest reaching
nearly to the foot cf what appears to be kilt
skirt, but which is merely deep killed founce
sewed underneath the coat halfway between
ihe waist line and the bottom of the garment.
On almost every imported dress for girls from
two to. ten years of age this effect of kilt and
coat is preserved. The kilt pleatDg is made up
of very wide plests, and is quite az often seen
in box pleats as in side pleats; these peats are
trimmed on dressy suits with one or two rows
of bias satin, either plain, brocaded, or striped.
Thus dresses of the gray, tan, or brown Pana-
ma tweeds in small checks will have poppy red
satin vests and bands of the same on the kilt
ing, or elss the accessories will he of brown
satin piped with cream-color. These grave
colors are much used for children, but it is a
popular fashion to use bright color5 for trim
ming them. White pearl buttons in cup shape
with eyes in the centre are on most French
dresses, or else black pearl dotted with old gold
or pale blue or deep red. The coat effect is CIV
en- to some of the smallest princssse suits for
children of eighteen months) by merely putting
very broad pockets low down on the sides;
these appear to separate the long waist from
the kilt -pleating the hips, while the front is
a box-pleated vest that continues into the skirt
pleating. This is very pretty in pale gray
Chuddsh with x-pleated vest aud pockets of
light blue silk. Gendarme blue striped on ecru
satin makes rich trimming for blue cameps
hair suits.
Wash dresses for schoolgirls, ard for smaller
girls dressed in colors, are made Of Scotch ging-
hams, the bandana plaids, the chintz percales,
and those with polka dots aud striped borders.
They are very simply made with kilt SKIRT aud
pleated waist that extends half way down the
kilt, and is worn with belt. The kit-pleatiDg
is attached TO deep yoke that fits smoothly
over the hips. The belted waist has three box
pleats in front, and yoke in the back, to
which the fullness is gathered. Thus an ecrn
percale with red or blue polka dots and red or
blue striped border will have row of the
striped bordtriog set on two inches
above the edge of the kilt; the belt will bs
made Of this border, and the collar and cuffs
also.
Some new fabrics are shown for the clothing
of the tinest little children, either boys or
girls one year old and upward. For their
spring walking coats, TO bs worn over white
muslin dresses, are new cloths woven in
bars Of pink and blue and white woolen cords
with a mixture of glossy silk threads. For the
same purpose are fancy corduroys in new ar
rangements of stripes and figures, made OF
very light quality. These wash well, and are
very effective when trimmed with the heavy
Russian lace and large pearl buttons When
made of colors, pale blue or light gray is chosen
for these coats. In shape they are long sacuues
either single or double breasted, with the M
der-srm seam extending quite far bick, and
made to curve parallel with the seams Of the
side forms that begin in the arm-holes. These
seams, with that down the middle of the back,
make five seams, end in each of these at the
garment is set a silk fan of very fine pleats. A
pale blue camel's-hair coat has gray silk fans,
gray cameps-hair coat has fans Of brocaded
old gold and blue silS, a, gray cameps--
hair coat has gray silk fans, and
another blue coat has white silk and wool bro
caded trimming. The heavy Russian laces
are much used on these and other wooden gar
ments for children.
A new white muslin for the little folks dres-
ses is called Persian lawn. has more body
than null, yet is as sheer, soft, and silky-look-
lug as 1uQlh is % C6uLS YdIO, 6uQ
nearly yard wide. For the white slips trim
med with lace and insertion this is preferred to
the stouter cambrics that are only suitable for
trimming with Hamburg embroidery on thick
cambric This sheer Persian lawn will also be
used for ladies' dresses, trimmed with Breton
lace. Swiss muslin with tiny pin-head dots is
also used for children's dressy slips that ara
trimmed with very open insertion and lace,
and are worn over blue or pink slips of silesia
or of silk There are also little Gabrielle dres.
Qda pntirplu of the Raeqian lana nj rathnF
of insertion in lengthwise lows with curves of
the lace down the side cores in front and back,
and two gathered rows across cambrics with
dimity stripes half an inch wide are used, and
trimmed with open patterns Of Hamburg en-
broidery.
The newest caprice for making these little
slips combines two favorite patterns, having
the front in three or four box pieats from the
neck down to the Spanish founce, while the
back has yoke with the remainder of the
dress gathered to 1t. This is very nice for sinu-
pie dresses; but more elaborate design for
fine Persian lawn and lace dresses has diago-
nal box pleats on the front, and also on the
sleeves, alternating with insertion. Thus there
are three diagonal box pleats beginning at the
left Of the waist with three rows of insertion
that appear to lap on other diagonal rows COM
ing from the right shoulder. These extend far
below the waist to meet a pox-pleated
Spanish fouuca. To use a sash with such
dresses, a wide pink, blue, or striped ribbon is
passed around at the top of the Spanish hounce,
hiding the seam that Joins it to the dress, and
is held in place there by diagonal straps made
of rows of Hamburg insertion edged on each
side with lace. The newest Spanish hounces
for white dresses are of the plain muslin, box
pleated instead Of being gathered; and in place
| of edgiDg the bJttom Of the doupce with trim
| ming, the lace or embroidery is gathered on
| quite full at the top of the fOunce, where it is
| sewed to the dress.
Many mothers, wishing to add a touch of
| color to these small white dresses, trim them
| with the Hamburg work, that is scsIlopsd and
| dotted with blue or red. Others use the pretty
| prints and percsles and linen lawns with pia
dots or stripes of color on W hite grounds
| These are made up with three box peats down
the font and back, with gathered Spanish
flouncs to complete them. At one furnishing
house nine dozen such little dresses have been
sold, made of American percale, at go cents
| each. The zephyr gingham dresses ID pretty
| cross bars are more expensive.
Close cottage caps of lace, muslin, and eu-
broidery are still worn by small children. Nc
| dallions of needle-work in muslin or white silk
| are on some of the finest caps. Turbans Of
| white sill, or else soft crowned turbans like
| those worn by ladies. are trimmed with white
| lace for boys of one or two years. Straw hats
| in mixed colOrs to match the brocaded aud
| tyir Of oh e..