The Milan exchange. (Milan, Gibson County, Tenn.) 1874-1978, 1879-02-20
MOURNING.
Csst q mre, BonRets. Neekttes and Oiher
Articles of woman Wear
Boston Transcript

| Boston Transcript.
"One would not be fright when enc
is dead, " said the poor heroine who was
anatomizzd by one of the most pitiless
of the Queen Anne men. aud still less
would one be a fright because ones
| friends sre dead, and, as q rule, no one
is more particular or exacting than the
mourner who is preparing to show the
world how deep is her grief for the loss
of loved one. The veil, which in for
mer days wss the point about which
neighborhood gossip used to circle, won
derirg why ''she" didn't have it little
longer or little shorter or with deep
er or narrower hem, is now usually
two yards and quarter in length, and
is fastened very closely around the back
of the bonnet, falling over the face. Ire
bonnet itself is of the cottage shape,
trimmed with plated folds of Grape in
stead of ribbon, and the Alsacian bow is
replaced by peculiar knot that is
graceful in effect, and which quite does
away with the awkward stiffness of the
cottage shape when made Of felt or
straw. The face trimming is Of Grape,
and in half mourning of crepe lisse and
narrow Chantilly lace or silk. The out
side trimmings OF the half mourning
bonnets are lightened by feathers sprin>
killed. with jet.
Grape is less used as trimming than
formerly, and, although some persons
insist on having the whole waist of the
gown worn in first mourning covered
with it, it is generally employe only to
define borders and tor collars, cuffs and
pockets. On street costumes it is not
used at ali, folds and pipings of the
dress material being employed instead,
and in hall mourning its place is taken
by silk. Princess dresses, basques and
overskirts, and drsped gowns Stimulating
them, are almost equally in favor. Grape
buttons are used in first mourning, and
frosted and cut Jet when hall mourning
is assumed.
The day when gray, lilac, lavender and
purple weIe mourning colors has gone
by, and only black and white ale admis-
sible, but these are blended in an infinite
lumber of novelty cloths, ranging from
fl ty cents to two dollars and halt q
yard, and having the same becoming ef-
feet as gray. In deep mourning the first
place is held by the Henrietta cloths,
which begin as low as seventy five cents
and range as high as 81 50. The serge
called drap d'alma, beautiful, piiable
material, costs from 81 80 to IS 25, and
is preferred by many to Henrietta cloth
As less common. Plain serges, French
bombszineS and tamise cloths are also
worn, and above all, camePs hair, VIII ch
retains its popularity wonderfully, con-
sidering how eagerly it was adopted when
it first Appeared. In cheaper goods are
the plain caehmeres and the simple de-
lanes, which are 50 inexpensive that
many who do not mean to wear mourning
long prefer them to anything OF better
quality. Albatross, rough delsine, is
pretty tor suits, in which IL can be en-
ployed either by itself or in oUbiuation
with g smooth fabric Brocade CASH
meres, which now cost but 81 % yard,
may be used for trimmings in very igdt
mourning, or, when employed In great
Ir0fusi0n, will serve TO transform
mourning dress into an ordinary black
costume.
The spring impOrtstioUs of mourning
goods will include granite grenadines,
the fine, soft, curiously woven material
which was introduced last year, and pre-
terred to the square, meshed fabrics;
crepe du japan, which has q slightly
crinkled surface; wool grenadines, both
single and double width, and ba eyes OF
different degrees of fneness. French
buntings of good quality will still be
worn, and the light summer camels
hairs. Besides these will be byzsntines,
1)rentines, crapelines and a dozen other
light materials that are sufficiently do
lorous in appearance, without being too
heavy for comfort. Siciiiennes will be
used tor trimmings of half-mourning and
usterless sewing silk grenadines.
There is dissgreeable rumor abroad
that the polka dot is on its way, possibly
as pretty symbol of the black death,
but as yet it is only seen in neck-tie-, a
few of which, intended for half mourn
ing, have black dots scattered on their
white surfaces. Crepe lisse and clear
lawn, very finely plated, are the pref
test things in white ties, but there are
some good combination of black and
white transparent materials, and some
elegant ca, cAdes of black crepe lisse.
The prettiest ruches are those composed
of triple rows OF fine plating, and many
ladies arrange this so as to simulate 8
sauare-necked dress, and fasten it with 3
knot of lusterless black ribbon at the
back. Frills of crepe lisse are inserted
in the wrists of mournipg-dresses, and.
with tew exceptions, the black is very
soon displaced by the white. Linen
cuffs aud collars, embroidered with black
are worn with morning dresses, and the