The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1879-08-12


Those familiar with the history OF China and who
remem bered the days mot long since gone. when an
army marched this very road to menace
Pekin burn the summer palace of the Emperor
and dictate humliating peace to China, those VINO
remember the earnestness. the suppiicatng earnest
ness with which the government resisted the EFFORTS
of the European Powers to introduce ministers into
Pekn could not but note the contrast in the recep-
ton of General Grant, and the changes i'll Chinese
thought which that contrast implied 1t confirmed
the remark made to me in Tlentsin by one or the
clearest headed men have in China. that Gen.
erai Grants visit had done more than anything else
break down the great wall between China and the
outer world.
Our journey from Tung Chow to Pekin lasted five
hours The horsemen could have gone ahead in two
hours, but the chairs moved slowly. The sun was
warm and the painting coolies had to rest and change
frequently. After leaving Tung Chow our way was
through country that did not appear to be over
settled, over stone road which and then broke
into dirt path. We came to villages and all the
people'were out, even to the women and children.
Sometimes the children quite naked after US and
begged. They had learned the Naples pantomime of
pressing their hands their breasts and lips to tell
us that they were hungry. You observed what you
in Naples that for hungry people almost starved
the beggars have q running and staying power
which our highly fed people at home might envy;
Sometimes an elder beggar would appear and knoel
on the road and shake his rags and bend his fore
head INTO the dust and aims. We noted tea
refreshment. In fact the main duty of the
escort seemed to be to gallop from tea-house
to tea-house. tie their horses under the trees.
refresh themselves, and on our arrival gallop
TO the next point. Considering that escort was
more for ornament than use, that although robbers
sometimes overhaul travellers on the Pekin road,
had enough in party to take OF any
band OF robbers we were apt to encounters 1t was
rather comfort that they rode ahead and had their
ease at their inns. As came to q town near Pc
kin were met by other officials. who were pre-
scented to the General and other troops. These
monies over, we kept on our road. The dust
about us, the sun grew warmer and warmer. and
the general discomfort OF the weather. the country.
the neglect the decay that seemed to have fallen
the land, all combined to make the journey
weary In addition to this came the fatigue OF
riding III n chair. For all hour or less riding in
chair is novel aud you have special sensations of
fatigue There is an easy. jogging gait. and you
look out your window into the faces of the Gro wd
as you pass along. But after the first hour you grow
tired aud cramped. You cannot move about. You
are compressed into one position. You ache and
grow restless the jogging trot becomes an annoy
ance and your journey, il it lasts more than two
hours, becomes the most exhausting form Of travel
known to man.
THE END OF THE JOURNEY
Shortly after midday we saw III the distance the
walls and towers OF Pekin We passed near bridge
whore there had been contest between the French
and Chinese during the Anglo-French expedition,
and Of the results of which that the officer
who commanded the French should be made u noble
man. under the name OF the Count Palikao, and had
later adventures in French history. As neared
the city the walls doomed up and seemed harsh
and forbidding, built with and strength
if to defend the city. We to
gate and were carried through stone arched
join the Generals party The people in Pekin after
we passed the bazaars did to note our
presence. Our escort rode over the wide dusty
laLes called Streets and all that Of the city
the dust which from the hoofs of the
who struggled on ahead. We were so hot, so weary
with riding in our chairs, so sthed with the dust,
that it unspeakable relief to at last the
American flag floating over the gateway Of the Legal
ton. Here guards and tents for euardsmen, to
do honor to the General during his stay. few min
utes after o'clock alter five hours OF severe
and uncomfortable ride, we entered the legation and
mat md fpnyu
hosts.
THE AMERICAN LEGATION.
The legation III Pekin Is shut of from the main
lodge, from which Chinese servants look out with
inquirng eyes. The American flag. floats over the
his home here is the habit tor the legations ord
narily to display their colors only Sundays and
holidays On the right side of the walk series of
low stored buildings. which is the home OF the
American Minister They OF brick. painted drab.
and covered with tiles. Nothing could be palmer
and at the same time more commodious anu COM
Portable On the left side is another series. whore
the Charge d'Atfaires, Mr.. Holcombe. the act
smaller building. for the archives Of the legation.
Standing little way off from the house the Charge
dAifairos is building called the pavilion set apart
for guests. In the arrangement Of the grounds and
the buildings you note American simplicity and
American energy. The energy seems to be devoted
to make flowers and trees grow. There flowers
and trees. and coming out OF the hot dusty town
did an hour ago. it was grateful to be welcomed
by them. They have torlorn time in this hard
soil. and l have doubt ii the secrets OF
the legation were unfolded 1t would be found
that the preservation OF the roses and the
Under my window is rose bush couple of. roses
depending from one stem being all that remain Of
It's beauty 1t seems to gasp for rain. DR.. Elmore,
the Peruvian Minister, lives In Mr.. Stewards section
and, he gives dinner to General Grant this
plants and trying to induce them to smile upon his
guests. General Grant lives in Mr.. Hocombe's
apartments; the Colonel and are in the pavilion.
Our naval friends in Mr.. Stewards house, under
Dr. Elmore's hospitality. which is thoughtful and
untirng. The legation offices are plain but neatly
kept. You have library with the laws OF the
United States. Congress archives. newspapers and
the latest mails In side room are English clerk
and Chinese clerk. Behind this office is u row Of
other buildings, where the servants live and where
the horses are kept.
AMERICA IN CHINA.
The legation, Ill its grounds and appointments, Is
one of the best we have in the East. 1t seems
almost like coming into cloister to find yourself
away from the bewilaerng Oriental world. among
books and trees and flowers The fact that we have
such legations place where ministers live in
comfort and where Americans are not ashamed to
visit is due not to our government but to Dr.
Williams, the former Charge dAffares. Dr. WILL
iains. soon rs the treaty opened Pekin to
bassy for America that should be respect
able and useful. When finished tho govern
ment would not have the embassy, and it
thrown upon his hands. The Doctor. there
FORE is the author of this legation. Mr.. Seward
the Secretary OF State who refused to pay for 1t.
When DR.. Williams entertained Mr.. Seward in Pc
kin he pleased to hear the ex-Sccretary express
his regret that the government had not taken the
legation. The Doctor still owns the property, and,
the government pays him enough rent to make
his investment worth ten per cent he has not. I
hope. suffered for his enterprise and patriotism.
ADDRESS THE AMERICAN COLONY.
On the evening of our arrival the American resi-
dents in Pekn called in "a body the General to
welcome him and read all address. Dinner over our
party entered the legation parors and presented
the small colony OF the favored people who have
pitched their tents in Pekin The members of this
colony are missionaries. members OF the customs
staff, dplomatists ana one or two who have claims
schemes tor the consideration of the Chinese gov
eminent. After being introduced to the General and
his party DR.. Martin, the president OF the Chinese
English University. stepped forward and read the
wing address:--
Sm.-Twcnty years ago tho American flag for the
tne entered the gates of this ancient capital For
OF that time countrymcn have beon
here under its protecting folds and II is with feel
ings ordinary that gather ourselves beneath
shadow this day to welcome arrival because
you sir under God, IL Is due that its field had
fragments and It's golden stars scattered
the winds Of heaven Having borne that banner through
Of victory which huds few parallels In the page
Of history IL was your high privilege to gather
around ID In ccmentcd union the long dis
cordant members OF national family. Oc-
cupying tho most exalted position to which
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