The New York herald., 1879-08-31
FASHIONS AND FRIVOLIIIES.
New Modes and Costumes OF
the ParlsienneS.
INITIATING THE IIEROINES.
Dresses in Paris, at Biarritz and
at Weddings.

at Weddings.
PARIS August 13. 1879.
The times over when it was proper to be
dressed in the fashion. To dress after fashion is
the proper thing therefore that versatile lady.
La Mode. has Professionally ceased her tickle rule.
1t Is rather poor thing to own. but. although her
reign was abhorred. not one out Of her prosecuted
upper ten was bold enough to stand out In open
rebellion against her. All bowed with q cringe and
fawn. Fashion. however feeling her throne as in
that of all the other monarchs In Chrsten
dom. determined to retire for q while from pub
lie life. She made no fuss, gracefully took
of her Panels. folded her train and collapsed.
But none will maintain that she does not contem-
plate to resume power again. She retires. perhaps
with view to distinguish her tact. gift peculiar
to her race. Being woman of the world she knows
womankind we'll. and that it is in the nature of her
daughters to give up their own will as they
have it. Besides. she is a consummate diplomatist.
Before departing she has put all the styles at public
disposal. we'll the materials wherewith to exc
cute them.
EACH TO HER TASTE.
What fearful anachronisms will ensuel Fashion.
at least versed in history, point often
looked in dress combinations. 1t is easy to foresee
that, now all are free to disagree and to
choose attire promiscuously from tho Cru
saders up to Eve and to bring it from the
Crusaders down again to the Zulus. people there
who will call Dier le veult-very bad French. In
gross ignorance lies Fashions hope. Ladies have
already put on bugle and lophophore cuirasses al
though their invitation cards distinctly stated that
aesthetic" attire was de ri0ueuv. little bewild-
erment is de~si rt0~euy. Persons who until now
hava tn ula <haynu avao n the
hands Of their dressmakers told be typical to
select an ,ndividnaiN that harmonizes with their
physique. and to go to party in that. 1t is terri
flying. Firstly there is tho study of this physique
which leads to doubt whether such . model as
ones own ever was cast in human mould before
thing that may have been nevertheless. as every
created being is always told that he she is like
some one else. Books consulted and the fact
made clear that mind gives the harmony and lends
to figure its grace Volumes fingered for the
discovery of mental snitcs in connection with tho
court, burgher and plebeian costumes. What
world There are the heroines Of Shakespeare.
Dante. Bocaccio. Goethe. Caderon and Walter Scott.
There the illustrated tales Of Sweden and italy
and romances; there tho fashions under the
pharaohs; there the daughters of Israel; the
draperies Of martyred virgins and matrons and
the lady loves of the French kings and not
only all these famed women. but there is Mr. Ruskin
to please well ones husband and brothers, to
say nothing Of the visionary ideal world all floating
and flowing in ce and the realistic school style all
crawling and wading in Zoa.
FASHION AND INDIVIDUALITY.
It will soon be found out that when La Mode hold
the scepre dressing far easier and indivduaites
will fall of. Meanwhile. though Fashion longer
governs she inspires tho trade. and In spite Of
anarchy we shall long hear Of this and that
being Ia mode. Thus it is I may speak OF the
general favor acquired by hideous squares and huge
fowerod Madras foulards. tho colors for the new
plaid silks being red and garnet mixed and the fow
cred silks are palm leaves. Then there is prevail
ing taste for on full dress occasions
and at recent grand wedding the bride actually
walked to the altar IN short white gauze petit.
coat. 1t frilled. however. with valcncicnnes.
and over it fastened separately tremendous
court train. cut square. and lined with
white satin. The material Of the train
was brocatel. The full bodice and waist
belt revival is another feature. We all remember
our aunts in full waists gathered on the shoulders
In front and above the belt. also with the back
gathered in the centre. while tho back shoulder
seams plain. 1t was the only make known for
muslins and in it all the princesses Of the Orleans
polonaises are now made in the same way. Straw
berry and cream lawn. mixed with rssp-
Iiltea Ifa rrilis round % the Skirt ana % the orns
mental parts all alternating. Another revival the
horizon is that Of elegantly draped shaws the only
possible outdoor wrap with short dresses. remen-
Der print over which my elders used to laugh
till their eyes watered; it represented . lady in
in spite of q mantle and Directory hat. That is
what we shall come to IL cloaks adopted instead
Of shawls Tn The print ended on paper hre-screen
illustrative of the absurdity of bygones.
sATIRrzrNG THE yAsHIoNApLEs.
.1A Id
plucky little paper Tyitoulet "a Parisan Punch is
taking of the powers that to his detriment.
cal engraving OF "Fnshionnbles" The President Of
the Republic is represented with drum on his back
and followed by cortege in which figures person
by ofacia judges to % be none other than M Iepsre,
Minister of the Home Department. M Lepare does
smoke over little) The honorable Chancellor,
NJ. lie Roger. is in the centre of q crowd
handing over to him their resignations. NJ Ferry
is shown in the outward and visible form of a
sphinx, asking what man in history is supposed to
have introduced the best form Of public education.
Tviboue replies. with imperturbable gravity. 'The
best educator was Simon. the shoemaker" (the per-
secutor Of the Dauphin Louis xvI1) M. Ferry Of
course declares he had looked that Tribouiet
particularly the engravngs 1t is very hard to stop
Paris artists when they hold q man in Office under
the range Of their pencils Writers are as bad.
eAMBkrrA's BAcHEIoR
Now, We all know Gambetta gave . beautiful fote
at the Palais Bourbon: true no ladies were invited
but Gsmbetta is q bachelor-legslv speaking-and
it does not ensue that his company Is not ht for
ladies because the spiteful press say The
hit OF all came out in illustrated under the head
ing. "Advice to single who give parties and are
not much in the habit OF receiving" Tho advice
pointed out all the little mistakes which In
the course OF the evening" and bit of IL greatly
annoyed the President Of the Chamber. il ran
thus -
Mover put fur cloak stroll about in your garden
when your all shivcrng under the damp coat
tails and thin broechos
Receive friends equal footing roservng
hall 70, the big heAd. another the amIassa
dors and third for general guests.
Pay your ballet dancers something than $50 francs
per head whom they have had leave their engage
onts for six or scven rchcarsas and the soiree Is In
ciuded.
Present your corps with the costumes they have
worn at your fcte. &c. &c.. &c.
Such is the criticism undergone hcre. Tho Athe-
mans were difficult to manage and they got thirty
tyrants over them. Parisians should remember
this, especially when of the members OF tho
Municipal Council publicly let's out In n speech
that no chad the honor to belong to the Com