The Portland daily press., 1879-12-08
GHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

The dark solid colors enlivened by gay Ori-
entail trimmings are used for children's and
misses dresses in precisely the same way de-
scribed for ladies. Cashmere, camel '-hair, and
other woollen fabrics are chosen for the skirts
of dresses, while gay broche goods in palm
leaf designs make the basque or other over
Dress and border the plain skirts. Gendarme
blue garnet, and deep green are the favorite
colors for the plain fabrics, while great deal
of old gold and red appear in the material
combined with it. For the combination
dresses worn by girls from twelve to sixteen
years two pieces most used, viz, short
panier polonaise, with plain skirt, or else
double-breasted coat with pleated kilt skirt.
The polonaise may fasten behind or in front,
according to taste, and is very prettlly trimmed
with point in front beginning at the neck
and ending at the waist line. This point is
made of shirred satin run crosswise in small
tucks, or else of pleated plush in lsngthwlse
pleatings; a revers of the satin or plush trims
each side, and long looped bow of satin rib
bon is placed at the point. The fullness con-
cealed under the bow spreads out to drape the
hips, and is fastened behind by two Marguerite
bows The skirt to wear with this polonaise
middle of the front and bordered with she'll
fiounce or else it may be of corduroy, velveteen,
silk or velvet, made perfectly plain or else
edged with narrow box-pleating that peeps out
from beneath the skirt braid For making such
suits there are stylish shades OF blue or garnet
camePs-hair sold at 81 to 25 a yard. double
width. and these can be worn over plain skirts
of gray corduroy, that comes in broad line
stripes, at so cents yard, or else in the cordu-
roy velvets that have fine stripes, and cost SlZo
a yard. These are single-width goods, and are
really striped velveteens; the colors are gen.
darme blue, garnet, brown, and green. Inc
CAV Oriental cashmeres used for over-dresses or
for trimmings cost from 81 80 to $5'a yard, ac-
cording to their width and quality.
The only costumes made entirely of one fab
ric for misses are those of cloth or of corduroy,
and these usually consist of three pieces-a
coat basque, or else a pleated waist belted In,
and a round apron over-skirt draped very high
on each side above plain skirt simply stltched'
or else kilt skirt. The coat basque is double
or single, breasted, and of medium length,
stitched on the edges and trimmed with gilt
or cut steel buttons. If pleated waist is pre-
ferred on account of giving roundness to
slender, undeveloped figure, it is made with
three box pleats stitched down the front to the
waist line, and the same number OF pleats are
in the back; the garment extends straight
around below the hips, and is hemmed there,
but the pleats are left loose, being merely
pressed instead of being stitched down. Gen.
darme blue bottle green, or navy blue cloths
are preferred for these costumes; next in favor
is the English homespun cloth IN checks Oh
ecru and brown, or. else two shades OF olive;
this is loosely woven and not heavy. There
are also cloth finished hannels in nice blue
shades that are quite heavy enough for dresses
to change with the English homespun suits,
and these two dresses form an excellent winter
outfit for the school-room. Among the ready
made suits at the furnishing stores brown or
blue flannels are made up, and fancifully
trimmed with old gold braid. These have
kilt skirt, with crinoine lining in the box
peats, while around the hips is drapery IKE
a pleated scarf. The coat is tight in the back,
but loose in front, and has deep collar. Some
times the hip drapery is cut in two points in
front, and there are two hanging ends. These
are made for misses of sixteen years, and also
for little girls four years OF age. The prices
range from 50 to S12 90, according to size.
For very small girls, from four to eight years
of age dresses are preferred in single piece cut
in the English styles illustrated in the Bazar.
The fronts are usually made to represent jackets
and vests by arranging the trimmings to do SO,
while the back has some pleating set in below
the waist line. These may be made of claret,
brown blue, or drab flannel, and trimmed with
gay India figured goods or with some striped
satin or else they are entirely OF the fancy
plaid flannels once used solely for lining gentle
mems overcoats, but now liked Tor these little
dresses on account of their quaint coloring such
as drab with red, green with red, and navy blue
with white or with red. Those dressy princesse
dresses have three knife-pleatings across the
back instead of the single kilt or box pleating,
and these have bouffant effect added by little
sash tied below the hips. A dark green CASH
mere princess dress with three knife pleatings
| and CAV India scarf with square collar OF
the India goods, is very pretty; seal brown
cashmere is made in the same way, ana plped
with male blue, cream-color, or bright red.
Cordnrov in the Arab shades, rpakes beautiful
I;ttle nrncesse dresses that serve also Tor walk
ing coats The gayest trimming for these is
Velvet in bright Scotch tartan plaids, used as
vest and pipings with occasional glimpses OF
| red satin facings Mothers who prefer quiet
colors, use seal brown plush or velvet for the
square collar cuffs, pockets, and pipings OF
corduroy princesse dresses.
There is no change in the white dresses worn
by little girls under four years of age Mothers
| who do not like to use white dresses all the
Winter get solid-colored fannels in the new
peacock blue and dark claret eolors, and make
pretty little box-pleated blouses precisely IKE
| the white muslin slips so often described ihey
| have merely three box pleats in front ana pc
! hind nearly the whole length oil the garment