New-York tribune., 1879-05-10
THE IA SHIONS.
FRESH SPRING OPENINGS.

1
teen underskrt ia worn marvellouhly coquetsh gray
saeen poonase all covered with the gayest OF posies
and wandering vines The Is cut hearshape, ana
for the neck is distracting little kerchef OF hnest
Swiss all fluffy with Breton lace. Quantities OF ribbon
bows involving all the colors contained in the poonase
| are dotted about among the folds Of drapery, on
| the BOSOM the pockets, and wherever bow Of rib
bon be placed Among the new goods JdrdthteTe
| satteens JardiRere twiled creonnes, monte clotDs
with little bouquets printed upon them, and Pompadout
lawns and Organdes then there dark blue linens,
pped. when made up, with red amber. and jdrdiiere
linens whereon lovely flowers, painted with an ar
lists brush, and vines wander. All OF these beautiful
cotton and linen fabrics closely initiate the Pompadour
| foulards which form important an accessory 10
| dress These coquettlsh costumes are trimmed with
lace. fine embroderies and loops OF ribbon, embodying
| several shades, as NaIcsse yellow with cream and
S6vres blue ecru with olive and garnet. mastc gray,
color and pink citron poppyred
and black. The pancr overskir IS in these styles
made with two in fronts reaches quite low,
| and is carried high up as lar the hips; the
| otEer curve is placed each sido Of the
| opening OF the lower part These are also grace
! fully draped back A pretty effect il shown by
the addition frills OF knifc-plamgs, on thin ma
terals of gathered frils OF Breton lace There are
| hounces shrred plated on the back. The waist Is
open In heart V-shape, and Is a so shirred lhc
elbow finished with frils TO match and long
ace mitcns reaching the elbow and a charming Pm
|
| sembe.
| One of Worth's triumphs in house dress is
Vatican costume ofivOrynted fouard covered all over
with scarlet hOneysucke vines. The skirt Is trimmed on
the front with a OF Ounces cut out at the
lower edge in square turrets displayed full plai
ing of Breton The coat-basque- -shaped-has very
long and full paners drawn up at the sides and COM
peted with cluster ivory ribbon bows min gled
with red anu white great deal OF Breton lace trims
the whole dress in double paitings. The back OF the
skirt is draped forming two full puf and falling mass
of drapery has revers red silk and cascades OF lace.
As the season progresses paniers will take mder
form and there will be evidences left OF the natural
figure Hoops are mysterously hnod ar there is sly
movement toward patches and the enormous bonnet OF
1880 threatened-also the tunneshaped which
some one said when maidens hid their bushes
discarded when blushng became questionable IL
dress restraints must borne, but touching bonnets
nothing is imposed. Their variety infinite and their
legion. OIe consequence of the present caprice is
thai flowers nave be renewed almost as often as
gloves Nature will be followed she gives the first
snow-drop and violet on through the regular routine
until the blooming of the and chrysanthemums
She insists upon these details persstenty as the
| German dramatist who noted in his play ;
| a" Here Is to be heard the sound of red
coat brushing" And the new fashions seem
| Inclined to slide gradually and gracefully into the
teacup time OF hoop aud hood" with quantity COS
tuned Chloe and Doris ChaDgeabe silk is revived from
oblivion and called shot silk. This Is used Ill combna-
ton with striped silks and satns. Among the prettes
effects olive and gold blue and gold, black and
garnet pink and gray brown and green. The change
able silk front has three breadtbs covered with rues
and the three trained back breadths composed OF
tie striped satin edged with knife-Dlsng, headed by
frayed bias ruching The vest is also made Of tic
striped satin. while the side forms OF the pOonase
OF the silk, and carelessly draped In back
over the hips, where they attached TO the striped
! ATTN loug a
| French dresses shown at private exposition
| are marvels Of elaboration apd artistic sk In
color and design. black velvet and brOcaded stripe
genadne has the drapiug Of the long skirt arranged
| q plated scarf trimmed with Jet embroidered lace ;
full plating Of black lace the front breadth
held in place by a wide band OF Jet The basque cut
high with elbow sleeves, and trimmed with Jet lace.
Some magnificent Pompadour grenadines are brocadcd
with flow theiI natural cOlOTs. These trimmed
pr0usely with black Spanish ande lace, aud are made
up cOmbiued with black satin and knife paitings Of
several in which introduced the lns of the
flowers Jet fringe intermixed with silk. nettcd jet
ilidesccnt bead pasSemeuterie, ist lace. and
jet ana gold passementeG modaOus are all used upon
black grenadines which graceful sweep If panier
dfaperies both for and home dresses
with til, settled advent OF the LOUIS XVI styles. mo-
ostes longer advocate building up" the figure but
! insist upou the cultivation Of pumpners EiDow
sleeves and the squareshaped cOrsage TO be unvcr
sal. unumeranc preu pieces Of lingerie invented
|
SWISS hnc lawn. sprigged lace, silk muslin, Irdia
null AL 1uGy with paitings of Bi eton lace Iuchngs Of
fravcd stls, shlrrcd, plated and embroidered lace III
seToh1 r Sna %gI la.pmL. 4a @ m rs
and are rend red .tl more by the aud beautiful
throat bows of Ribbon Among the pletuest OF these are
| non,ocrouatc AID silyery green all glitfrrlng with
threads OF silver wrought in The These are decor
ated with inexpensive pnS-ior instance dove on the
wing. Of silver set with glitienng le Rtine pebbles
holding in lie bill spray OF olive branches set with
g4rnrts emeralds and sapphrcs Another style shows
open music box the lines of music are accurately de
| fined, and a brilliant little enamelied bird Is ptrched
upon them. Besides the Persian ribbon alluded 70 mere
is another even more bcauflfu called ndcTe de Pere
shown the closest imitation OF mother oipear ia the
| ehlmm"rlrg nlJesceht tntlnE ana shailus' pm
| decorating a cluster ot these throat Oows rep
resents one of the golden spathes OF palm How
| ers, tbe flbpoh reproducing tle many Y-cooIeu
brlancigS Of the tropical skies Another ancient Sym
bo in gold aud green enamel Is Ihe n,-etoe 9"mgh OF
the DIuiis some new ana cnsty lace pIs also li$ed
for ribbon bows, imaie flowers to carry out the
The violet gntng of the ameihJ IN two shades forms
a pausy there are urquoic iorgei-m--nos, IVY leaves
| and iy, caves OF translucent aqua marine; aud
| bloOGrcd tOp@Z droops from green golI
| curyiug sem. Keguariy eacn season is the poi
| onsise nlacs-ba led and set aside for
f.yorte, and as regularly - ttls iueahhape garment
models snow tue polcnaise proper with panicrs and
vest attached. The IL very deep ANA the pOOnaso
lines edge the direct from tho neck TO its lower
edge ana a. re II curves away the np cuitllu
draprry fashion Tor the display OF an eab"Iatey
trimmed taber. There ieyers and drapeIy at the
| back falling over a full or dcmi-traln, according
| 20 the style OF costume. One OF these models
pocket ana of jdrdHitre iouard SIX tue
is c1ged with trtioH OF
plaltngs. Tho puloHGIsc for summer days Is made ui
black Chanuiy, black spanish and other black d"e',
very much trimmed With velvet or saun Tbron Ines,
are worn over Oiack SIX or satlh OF ioI evening use
over come By gin color, which purple ana y.Oot
are exc uded. excepting where mourning - worn.
SATIN, although rather "A heavy iaUric for Summer
! IL seen combined with SIX, louldfd six
| and grenadines. The front breadth Is hEclN
sbirred tie DolOuaise Overskri dTapery curves
| graotfuuy back plated paniors. some 81 tue sliA
ana .ittn models for street wear are made in three
pirce-Da.qge OycrskTt ana skirt, which is cut sort
and round; ue front l. stirred lad III straight or
f.t.. yvIf
skirt scd with two Triple bOX-plaited rut1es
| black brocJde bunting IS made IN TINS fashion
| he Ia. L. black brncIdcd SILK.