Ashtabula telegraph. (Ashtabula, Ohio) 1874-1880, 1879-08-29
BUtter Abroad,

England is rapidly becoming a market
for increased quantities Of American
| butter, says the CiLltiudt0r, and statistics
already show a surprising total of butter
exported thence. Dutch butter is very
largely consumed in every part of Great
/ Britain, and it has been estimated that
/ three-fOurths of all the foreign butter
| used in England is imported from Hol-
land. Leading journals express the fear
| that considerable quantity of it is only
purified fat favored with buttermilk.
A considerable trade is done in Irish
butter and as a rule foreign butter from
Holland, France and America are pre-
ferred, because the former are consid-
cred scrupulously clean, while the Irish
product frequently contains hair and
| dirt, as we'll as too much salt and brine.
The varieties of English butter are
numerous enough, but they do not hold
a prominent place even among the peO-
pie Of England. Some of them are ex-
cellent; Devonshire, Aylesbury and
Epping buffers are deservedly popular,
and Cambridge butter also, though it is
currently reported that what is called
Cambridge butter is only mixture of
foreign buffers. Delicious butter, pos
sessing fine creamy flavor, is aIsomade
in the vicinity of Edinburg, Scotland,
yet the great majority of the British
butter is far inferior to the cho:,c lines
of American dairy produce. Nearly all
the best butter supplied to the London
clubs comes from Ostend, from Nor
mandy, and from Brittany in France.
French cooks in their preparations use
a great deal more butter than the Eng
lish do, and it is said an English house
5,oo ol1oI Oft tho
disposed of in a French kitchen. In
various forms the French use butter for
sauces. RaUi00te butter is the dairy pro-
duct incorporated with chopped herbs,
pepper, salt and lemon Juice. It is
EerVed with steaks and broiled fish.
Mditre FhOtel butter is butter kneaded
with chopped parsley, pepper, salt and
lemon Juice. A pat is put cold either
under or upon brOiled meat or fish. and
melts in the dish. When dish is said
to be Ia rnditre dhoteI, it is almost
always served either with this butter or
with what is called n1Gitrs d'hOteL sauce,
which is only common melted butter
with chopped parsley added to it. An
choYy butter is made with butter and
pounded anchovies.
There are simpler preparations of but
ter sauces than these used III France,
and which can be easily prepared
Among the most important are "black
butter" the French beltrre noir, a piquant
sauce used for some kinds of fish. caIf's
brains and similar dishes. 1t is made
by melting fresh butter in a saucepan.
and letting it remain over the fire till il
is brown without being at all burnt. =
is then mixed with vinegar which has
been boiled rapidly till it is considerably
reduced, pepper and salt are added,
when the sauce, after being passed
through a strainer, is ready to serve,
fiNut Brown butter" or betLrre Ia nOiSette,
is one Of the most perfect of fish sauces.
1t is made by melting fresh butter, and
allowing it, not to brown, but to &C
quire light golden tinge. When this
point is reached, the butter is taken at
once from the fire, and served with salt
and a little lemon juice. Oiled butter,
another simple sauce highly esteemed
by French epicures, is nothing but fresh
butter melted to oil, but not colored at
all, then strained to free it from the
milky sediment contained in the butter,
and slightly salted before being served.
In Denmark and Sweden butter is
made in large quantities. Butter Is 30
generally employed in England, that in
addition to that made at home, nearly
1SO,OOO,OOO pounds of foreign butter are
imported annually; while it has been
estimated that in London alone the an
nual consumption amounts to about a.,
100000 pounds. In India butter is made
from the milk of bufaloes, and under
the name of "ghee" is universally used
in native cookery. In Brazil large guam
titles of butter are imported from Eng
land, France and Germany, in addition
to the native product, which latter is
very inferior. No good reason exists
why an extended market for American
butter may not be developed in Brazil.
In Southern Europe butter is very spar
ingly used, and in Italy, Spain and Port
hgal it issOld by spothecaries as an oint-
ment for external application in the case
of bruises and injuries.