New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1879-08-13
IN THE SCOTCH HIGHLANDS.
THE PLACID TOWN OF ELGIN.

THE PLACID TOWN OF ELGlN'
A FFEING MARKET-FRoM ABERDEEN TO kLelN-
RUINS OF CASTLES AND coTTAGEs-A PhiLo-
soPmCAL GLovER-THE TOWN AND ITS lNHAb-
ITANTs.
1vpoN AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT THE TRTBUNE'I
ELGIN, July Ion my first visit 10 Ele'h 'n0
Mace was in state of fermentation. Its features
were distorted had lost the classic regularity Oh
normal repose The occasion was the annual leelng
or hiring market, and the place was thronged WIN
hands OF agricultural labOrers in quest OF engage
ments They had come in from the surrounding
country; fne-lookng lads of brawny build, dressed
in their holiday suits and wearing Jauntly at Var
ons angles of elevation the Highland bonnet
with its top-knot of red. Like all other
Scotch towns and villages, Elgln con-
sists of a high street from which side
streets and closes branch off on either hand. AS IN
the case of Dundee, the Hgh-st. of Elgin is WIDER
than the streets running into IT at either end ana
might therefore be more correctly described as a
central square or place. In this place the farm
hands were congregated, standing about in groups
and ever and anon diving upon mysterious errands
into the alleys or closes. Bargains had possibly to
be sealed IN the fashion common to the strains OF
the North and towns of the South. Such at least
seems fair inference from results
To-day farm hands, farmers and grieves are pre-
sumably settled and at work, looking after the
tardy crops and Elg1H is itself again. 1t differs
greatly from the average Lowand towns, and good
deal Of the difference is III ITS favor. Coming here
from the east change is felt the moment Aberdeen
is left That city seems to be claimed neither by
Highlander nor LOwlander as his own. Its natives
are neither SassenaChs nor Gaels, but Aberdonlans
Travelling westward either up the Valley OF the
Dee orup the Valleys of the Don and Une to StrathDo
oie and Huntly the points Of the distnctvely High
md nO
marked There is to all appearance less admixture
of Saxon blood throughout the POI llation. The
Scandinavian type also, often met nth along the
cast coast aud in the middle counties undergoes a
change The naxen hair of the descendants OF the
Morse Marauders changes to light and sunny shades
of brown, varying through hazel and chestnut to
darker brown. The light blue eye becomes more
pierc,ug and steely, and bushes of tawny
red nang from the checks and cbins OF
the peasants Of Western Buchan and Strath-
bogie. of .Banf and Speysde. The same
characteristics were noticeable among the teelng-
market jewellers Eigin. The face of the country
also undergoes a change. There is rapid success
sion Of hills and streams of wooded uplands and
cultivated valleys. There is none of the wild
grandeur associated with Highland scenery; the
Landscape is on The contrary marked by the pastoral
quiet and dotted with the retired mansions found
in the Lowands it is true that dilapidatcd out
buildings or cottage ruins are frequently passed, but
there is nothing directly suggestive of depopula-
ton OF of any vioIeul change in the occupation OF
the SOIL such as has taken place IN other sections OF
the Highlands. The County of Aberdeen abOunds
in Iuins, and the crumbling cottage walls
are TO the debris of castellated mansions
as the peasant is to the anstocTat. Be
tween the old castle of Slams, on the east coast,
and that Of the Farquharsons of Inverary, near
]. ..N.H MN tltAp of
castle ruins than in any other county in Scotland.
Those Of the peasants cottage play the part of
humble and not inharmonous companions to their
lordly ucichbors and those of both ranks occur at
frequent intervals all along the regular route from
Aberdeen through Inyerary, Huntly and Keith to
Tgin as well as IN the less accessible parts of The
county.
chose Elgin as a stopping-place because it is a
representative town. IT, by stralning point, we
say that Brdge-ofAllan is the Scotch Saratoga, ST.
Andrews the Scotch New-Haven, and Rothesay the
Scotch Long Branch, that point would re-
Oure to be passed before American parallel
could be found for Elgin; and yet as
have said il is a representative town, although
neither a spa, a seat of learning, nor sea-coast
resort. 1t thriving place. with something of
commercial and something more OF an allstocratlc
air History, location and population have all
been for many years past favorite residence of
men seeking place wherein to spend the Fall of
life in quietude aud retirement The builders OF
fortunes in PARKWAY parts ofthe world have settled
here to await their last change, and possibly to give
a little time to the study Of the philosophy of life
as summed up by the glover whose grave III the
Cathedral grounds to the east of the town bears the
sage inscription;
This world is a city fun OF streets,
And death f. tho merc8t that ali men meets.
III lyie were a thing that mOuie could DuY,
The Poor could not 1--we. and the Rich would not die
In any case the epitaph is worthy of beng re-
corded. The class Of residents alluded to have
papted their villas and mansions on all sides Of the
town uuder the arts tuCratc shadow, so 10 speak, OF
that OF the Countess of Seaield. The names ana
memories of many Dukes, Knights. BISHOPS ana
Generals are associated with EIglh ana no doupJ
tend 10 give il a tone agreeable 10 those VINO care
for such things as titles and rank. linen again III
has the misfortune to bear the reputation oI oGHs
a yerv healthy place. Many are thus attracted to
III who think that their constitutions demand
auietude and perfect immunity from all Jhe as
turning influences of an average lie. 10 them
Flpin is desirable because there is moth
ing extreme about 1t. III Is not 100 near
the sca-tye or SIX mics aNay-ahu US
air ought therefore TO be Draclng WIN
ont being too strong. 1t stands upon plain
by a river, and therefore runs iar chance Oh pc
ing moderately warm. II IS not high enough TO pe
cold and trying TO weak lungs, nor low enough TO
II Is natural that with the two classes mentioned
predOmiuatiug in influence, II not III NUMBER IN us
population, Elgin should be conducted upon con,
aervntiye u1nclple as regards manufacture aud
trade Ii virtually rests upon its retirement and its
health To give il " lfeN would be TO break ITS
chic, charm. The money spent IN Eigln is nor,
broadly speaking, earned there, and II suits the
Lumor and interests of its inhabitants to retain as
strictly as possible ITS character OF refuge ana
gaultarium. II u loses that character ana becomes
enterprisng aud progressive, II viii be no longer
the Elgn of the present day.
There no prospect OF such revolutionary
change ON the contrary the chances are III favor
of Flgn's long supplying what 1 find in II, an eN-
annie of class influence shaping tue destiny OF