Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1879-06-13
Summer Fashions.

Luther G. Riggs, in 70 mixers State esman
Summer Fashions.
The long predicted changes in the
radical forms of garments have come at
last. This summer we are having new
entirely new-styles, both in materials
and in the manner in which they are
made up. Mummy cloths, satteens,
percales, calicoes, batistes, printed
linens, lawns and organdies, the grena-
dimes, debeiges, and even the white dress
materials, all come out in new forms,
with new names, and in new patterns
and designs. The styles, too, in which
they are made up are novel and striking
in the highest degree.
Basques are not abandoned, but the
fashionable basque is worn over waist
coat or has a simulated waistcoat
formed by plaStr0n on the front, and
has long. double point before, tapering
upward over the hips. and made either
short in the back or falling in square
postillions more or less trimmed. Below
this basque is worn short round skirt
when the dress is intended for outdoor
service, and this skirt is made thus: at
the bottom are placed one OF two
flounces, arranged in piaits, shirrings or
shells, according to fancy. Above these
are draperies, taking the place of an
overskirt, and composed of a tablter,
side plaStrons, and back draperies, and
these again are headed by scarfs which
simulate the paniers of the reign of
Louis XVI. and the days of the unhappy
Marie Antoinette. When we say simu-
late we do not mean that they are
actual reproductions of that style of
dress ornamentation. AS yet these
paniers are in their incipiency; but
| before the end of summer few ladies will
have new material made up without
ordering these panier scarf draperies, in
some form, to appear on the hips OF
| their dresses. In Paris it is even now
| the fashion to wear panier draperies
composed entirely of fat-lying artificial
flowers on evening, ball and bridal
dresses. The panier is always punched
in plaits high under the back draperies
or under the posUillions of the short
basque.
Two materials, and frequently three
or more, are used in the composition o
all stylish costumes, and one of the ma
terials is always pekine or striped. Whel
these stripes are sprinkled over will
| flower, leaf or other designs they ar
called Pompadour stripes, and nothing
is more fashionable than these.
Another sure indication ofthe change
in STYLES are the mantles which az
worn in preference to sacques or dol
mans. All fashionable wraps are shor
in the back and on the shoulders, ant
very long in front. The ends in from
may be rounded, pointed or square, bu
the longer they are the more fashionable
you may may be sure, the garment
considered. The sacque ttchW is an exam
ample of this kind OF wrap. 1T is reall.
cape falling in Il point to the waist lin
in the back, very short on the shoulders
reaching only to the top of the arm
: while the long, curved ends cross on tn
J bosom in front, and are fastened unde
. a bow of ribbon or silk in the back jus
) over the tOsGrnatre. Rich fringe, at leas
quarter of yard in depth, and com
posed of alternate sections of crimpe'
tape and silk twist with strands OF Gu
jet at intervals, trims the sacque tictu al
around.
t These are only two examples {
3 prevailing styles of garments. The va
riety is endless, and never did wome
o have so large and diversified n field
, choose from what they would wear q
at the present. Of one fact, however, the
E ought to be warned Dress has resolve
itself into three styles for three ditferer
q occasions. The street or outdoor dress
! which is invariably short; the in-doC
!, home dress, or dress for informal an
unceremonious occasions, which shoul
be demi-trained, and the evening dress
! which must be long-trained, and have
Z real or simulated Pompadour or To-
{ neck, and elbow or short sleeves. Agail
J the dancing dress for young ladies mu
be short, and in modified Marie Anto
:. nette style, while matrons who dant
i must be content to walk through q quat
: rille or lanciers in their trained robe
Z But no matter what the age of a, lac
may be, she wears nowadays, If she
n fashionable woman, a short Dire
If whenever she walks abroad, whether
y the street or on her own lawn, or in Il
II garden.
y In addition to the old-time favori
sheer dress materials, the lawns, gren
4 dimes, organdies and bastites, there
~ ~ a very cheap fabric that has come in
i use this summer. 1t is cheese cloth
IF the identical diaphanous cotton clio
j used to wrap around cheeses as they
70 into the press. 1t costs only four Ger
rS yard, and is from thirty-six to fort
20 two inches wide. Twenty yards ma
&c the fullest kind of a dress, kilt-plait
II flounces and rufIles, paniers, ptaStro
20 and all. The approved trimming
3 cheese-cloth dresses is cotton, banda
,s plaid Madras handkerchiefs cut ir
If bias bands, pipings and bindings: I
i, gayer the plaid and the larger the bett
= The handkerchiefs are only thirty eel
~, apiece, and il takes less than three to c
n n the bands, pipings and bindings nec'
90 sary for dress.
Il First cousins to these cheese-clo
Ss dresses are suits for children made off
% bleached domestic, and trimmed wi
bandana handkerchief bands. They 8
a made up as kilt and blouse suits, and ;
IS, exceedingly pretty, cheap and servic'
Is, BILE.
!" Large quantities of Madras and Scot
ho gingham, and checked and striped goo
gaO are also made up for children in the sa
style, or in the gabrielle fashion of