Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1879-10-09
Feeding the Multitude.


Leaves SaA tive Fishes.
A correspondent OF the Tribune has been
disregarding the advice OF the ages BY ex
plorin2 the kitchen OF his boarding place.
This Is what he found out about dinner.
getting In great Saratoga hotel:
| The proprietor claims that this Is the isrg-
es, hotel 10 the world. We witnessed the
preparation OF the dinner from the begin.
ming to the end Mr.. Antoine Ennesee. the
head cook Of the establishment, was our
cicerone. We found that gentleman clad
after the latest fashion plates Of his guild,
and boxing every inch of him French
cook. II he had been eucased in a clergy
mans habit he would not have passed for
a ciefgymsn, but rather for French cook
In disguise.
$50 you have come to help me get din
ner, have you, gentlemen Z" said he "well,
need all the help can get for have to
iced one thousand one hundred to-day, and
my bill OF fare is a generous one" One OF
the gentlemen inquired who made up the
bill of fare. ~ make Il up" replied the
cook. The steward buys Whatever he
] likes, aud | make my dinner out of what
there Il In the house. For example. step
this way, gentlemen :" and the cook led to
one OF a number OF large blue chests which
/ were ranged about the sides of n large
room. In the middle of the room was A
butchers block and table Opening the
chest the cook showed US q hundred or 50
/ beautiful fish stretched upon the ice side
/ by side There were salmon. weak-tsh
striped bass and Saratoga Lake bass
Each fsh was thoroughly clean and ready
/ for cooking. II have two kinds of fish on
| the bill to-day" said the cook. and | NAV
as well lay them aside Thercupon he
selected ten OF the largest salmon. the
| average weight of which was about thirty
/ pounds. and fifteen blue fish. which to
/ Rether would weigh about a hundred
| weight. lone of my assistants will come
| Tor them when he wants them" said the
! cook. 'lt might Interest you." he added.
''io know that hav. eighteca assistants.
besides the two bakers. the hye pastry and
| lce-crcam cooks, and the sixteen women
who prepare and cook the vegetables
lhs i the mcai-room. gentlemen. Ia ,his
next chest are the steaks and chops Ill
ready CO, for the gridiron. We haveiwo
| butchers who Gu, and dress the meat
There must be / 600 or 500 steaks. small
aud large. In this chest. In this next chest
are the lamb and mutton. We use about
25 racks a day. Let's see what there is
% come out OF here Tor dinner. leg OF
niutton. capcr sauce" That will take six
% these fellows. Then | wan, ten hind
aud sIx saddles OF mutton TO roast There
wlil be some OF this lamb or mutton lei,
over. and We viii use Il Tomorrow under
the head OF cold meats In this che-, /.
the beef. We use a great deal of beef
To-day ~e shall roast dftcen ribs OF beet
tha, average forty five pounds. aud Hftcen
ieuderloins There will De one ri5 lei, for
supper. Here. now, are the little spring
chickens. and We use between 900 aud co
day. Don'tihey look pretty with their
arms tucked away behind their back: For
dinner alone We all want abou, 3 90 of
the iittle chaps. We shall boil 90. roast 80.
aud use - more In the spring ssGic. IA
Marengo." The other chests are for cold
meat. and the salads We boil about elsh,
hams and twelve tongues every day. aud
they answer for cold meat the next day.
Thr salad dressing we make as often a.
necess~r =. TODAY have good supply
put iHe soup.bones. lou Know Ne maze
the stock tor oar soups hy boiling the
bones from the joints after We have carved
all the good slices OF meat of them. We
boil the bones In great kettles by steam.
The stock for ts-iay's soups was boiled
yesterday. IL takes about leJ gallons Of
soaps for dinner. To-day We have green.
turtle soup"
one OF the gentlemen interrupted the
COOK Ia his story 10 ask him II be really
used turtles In the making of green-turtle
soup. The cook looked AZ lhe base insinua-
tor in silence for a moment and then said
Y es, sir. We use turtles. To-day We i've
tao turtles. eighty pounds weight each
We we're Just about to leave the meat-room
when giancing AZ the bill of fare the cook
sad: Excuse me. gentlemen, oscrIooke
thte HsricoI of lamb. a IA prin,anler." /
use sixty pounds OF lamb for that" He Sc
Il. a. q
pastry room. where the cooks were already
AZ work getting ready for dinner. The hr,l
Item on the Dill OF fare under pastry" was
cabinet pudding One OF the cooks was
mixing up the dough for Il. He said the
result would be 2jO small pa1diEys. Three
kinds of pie were Ia progress, rhuOarb.
pumpkin and blackberry. One OF the party
expressed surprise that only nine dozen
pies would be needed for the i nner. 'Oh,"
said Mr.. Ennesee, "our guest don't come
much iron Massachusetts,. They are most
ly from New York. They dou'i care much
for pies Here Is what they like" and he
pointed 10 where people were working on
what he laid would turn out TO be 500 Char
lo,le Ru.ses- We make a good deal OF
cake too. 10 eat With the lce-cream and wa
trr-ice. and all OF il IL made in this room.
OF course we always have some on hand,
aud only have 10 make 4 single Kind or two
10 day. We bake the pastry in these tile /
ovens These two men are the bakers
They do noihin. except make bread They !
use four barrels and half OF hour day. /
This afternoon they will be at work on tea
biscuits. They make between 5000 and
400 OF them a day. There Is not much
bread eaten al dinner We use lots OF but {
ter and eggs and milk in thl. room but |
can't tell exactly how much we use for din
ner In the whole house la single day
We use for cooking and on the table about
800 pounds Of butter, 400 dozen OF eggs, and |
zoo quarts Of milk. The ice cream takes
con siderable milk and eggs. We emake 220
quarts uf iCt-Ci GauI and waterloo together.
They freeze il In this room We looked
10, but there was nothing TO see other than
very warm-looklng man clad in long
rubber apron, who was engaged lu turn
ing the big wheel Of the freezing sppara-
tus.
As We came from this room. Mr.. Enne-
see called attention TO the dough that was
mixing for the Queens fritIers." I'VE
make bushels OF them Tor dinner" he said.
Euterirg the room 10 which the vegetables
are kept, We saw barrels OF potatoes. cab
bases. onions, ,turnips. egg plants. aud other
vegetables. "uow many potatoes do you
use for dinnerf" one Of US inquired. BE
tween three aud four barrels, sir; we use
eight or ten barrels a day To day we
have egg plant fried. and we shall use one
barrel Of the plants" what is the favor
ite vegetable, the one most called for?'
Mr.. Ennesee poioted to . stack Of green
corn. I'VE shall use two thousand five
hundred ears to-day said he. They like
tomatoes pretty we'll, too. We use ten
bushels q day. You don't see anybody
peeling potatoes here, do you" inquired
our guide. swell, the reasoc is that we
peel them by steam. We put o bushel OF
potatoes into that zinc cylinder and turn
on the power. In fifteen minutes they are
peeled. You see the potatoes strike on the
sharp triangles that are punched in the
cylinder, and that peels them"
A little after noon We paid visit to the
great kitchen. Upon the left side Of the eh-
trance, the ribs OF beef, the chickens, the
lamb and the mutton, were roasting over
hot-coal fire; roasting on splits that were
turned BY q small steam engine close at
hand. In pots close by the salmon were
boiling. Across the room great kettles
filled with vegetables were hubbling on the
fire. while at the end Of the room number
OF cooks were engaged with the spring