The Morris County chronicle. [volume] (Morristown, N.J.) 1877-1915, 1879-09-27
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
The Ruling Fashions.

Hattractive costume, consists of a plair
skirt and short polonaise with yer,
llb0uffant paniers and back drapery
There are several other novel and lovefy
designs in trains, derni-trains, Jackets
and styles for misses and children.
which must be seen to be appreciated.
An exceedingly novel design, combin,
ling q short walking skirt with an over.
lskirt, having a panier at the sides anc
boufanb drapsry at the back, is the Gle.
lila walking skirt. Fllis pattern, made
of two materials plain and striped
4 forms a most graceful skirt, as ladylik
and stylish, and SO simple in its design
that the plainest seamstress@ cannot fai
i to. put it together correctly. .sAnabelle'
is another new model greatly admired.
The plain skirt is of American brocade
in the gendarme blue color, and the
overskirt is formed of plain silk Of the
same color. 1t is composed of deep
apron front, two paniers and a very
boufant, gracefully arranged back
drapery. Bands Of the brocade border
the paniers and form reyers at the front
and back. 1t is as dlStingate in effect as
lit is novel in design. Six yards and
[three-quarters of material, twenty-four
inches wide, will be required for the
overskirt and paniers, and six yards and
/ a half of the brocade will be sufficient
for the underskirt, bands and revers.
| Black, dark blue, invisible green, deep
wine color, almond and all the beige
shades are used in the medium qualities
of cloth for extra garments to be worn
with ordinary street costumes Hall
fitting Jackets have the preference fo1
ordinary street wear. The newest de-
sign in the line of mantelets-which are
the accepted garments to be worn with
| visiting toilets--is the sFelicie.' The
singularly graceful sleeves, cut in a f1ovel
and convenient manner, form paniers al
| the sides and impart an. .ex ceedingly dis
ti1agae air, and render it equally as well
| suited fol. dressy wear as for general re
quirements, the disposal of the trim
mings being sufficient to make it appro-
giate for the most stylish occasions. An
her new design is the Loretta, y
hieh has long pointed tabs in front,
pinted shoulder pieces inserted in dol
Nan style, and arranged so as to produce
the inevitable panier effect by being
| looped into shorter back piece.
/ The India shawl holds place oil
honor among wraps. It drapes grace
! fully, Is harmonious with, almost every
toilet, and the rich coloring gives an all
of distinction to the whole All kinds
are worn, long and square, the striped Oh
BostOna md the figured styles, some lovely
designs and combinations having been
4 introduced this season.
| We have the Renaissance cravats
| Henri / IL. ruffs, Empire collars, Francis
II. tJi3ets and Marie Ai1boinnette cog
TUNES, the long pointed Medicis basque
and the short full corsages of the first
empire, Pompadour silks, antique laces,
A Oriental st,affs, Scotch plaids, Grecian
coiffures. the faring Directoire and mer-
lveilleuse bonnets, the close Empire
1 capotes, the modest Derby and the
dashing, Gainsborough hats, and a host
/ oFsOthef seemingly ineongTuous styles.
Both the fat and bouffant styles are
fashionable for street wear this season
and enjoy about equal popularity, and
frequently the. two elements are com
| bined, the skirt being narrow and plain
and the drapery bouffant, Plain heavy
woolen goods Of dark rich colors are
usually selected for the aforementioned
! type, and are made up in the severest
style, without trimming of any kind ex-
/ ceptihg rows of machine stitching near
the edges. \. The skirt is plain, the over
skirt very slightly draped, and often not
at all; the tight or half-tight jacket
/ is usually slightly double breasted,
with perhaps the collar and cuffs of vel
vet or plush to break the severity; the
cut and fit irreproachable, the :" tailor
| finish imparting a sort of masculine all
to the jaunty garment. Equally fash
ionable, and perhaps more popular than
\ this somewhat exclusive type, are the
costumes in which brighter .colors and
contrasting goods are used, made up in
the bouffant styles which characterize
indoor toilets. The gayest colors and
most striking contrasts are admissible
| for street wear this season, and ever
| when the main material is a simple one
of quiet color the trimmings are most
usually of some bright contrasting goods
i or more often of combination of severa
i colors.
/ While the greatest liberality is allowed
in the selection of the style of the walk
/ ing costume, on one point fashion is in.
/ eXorable-the skirt must, be short
/ Young ladies with pretty feet, and who
! are fastidious about their clsaussatge
/ have their walking skirts made at leas
4 three inches above the ground, but tht
majority adhere to a length which es,
capes the pavement all around and doe:
not conspicuously display the feet.
Plain skirts, without vestige of trim.
ming, are considered most stylish; bu
they must be cut and mounted with the
greatest care, as any defect either in thu
fit OF hang is more easily detected
than when the skirt is trimmed. Mate
rails of medium weight have usually
4 some style of garniture, either broad
bands of velvet, plush. satin or some O.
4 the varieties of brocaded silk. Flouncel
on walking skirts are usually from fiv,
/ to ten inches deep, seldom deeper, as i
I is fashionable to have portion of til,
plain skirt show between the fiounce an(
the short upper drapery. Skirts plaiteC
all the way up are also worn, the skirt
being laid in regular kilt or bag plaits o.
! in sections. One favorite style has tn,
I front and sides laid in perpendicular
plaits from top to bottom and a drapery
at the back; another favorite arrange
ment very becoming to tall figures ha.
side plated founces across the front ant
drapery at the back.
| Tight fitting basques are used to com
plete costumes for autumn wear, the de
sign always being selected with refer
ence to the arrangement of the skirt
| When the drapery is very high anC
DOuHanJ a basque, SilOrI on the nlpS an(
/ pointed back and front, liFe the Corneiia
! is the most appropriate; or, if becom
ing, round waist, completed by yer,
broad belt, is chosen.
/ Novel in design and exceedingly be
coming to slender figures is the Sybill;
basque. It is tight fitting, the from
] having the usual number of darts in eacl
1 side and ornamented with wide pieces o
j the material joined in the shoulder seam
and shirred both top and bottom, givins
the effect of full fronts. The back il
i fitted with seam down the middle ant
| side forms rounded to the armholes
/ The skirt portion is Of medium length
/ forming two points in front, and is ar
ranged in a moderately boufant rnanne
1 in the back.--NeD York Herald
How Two Foolish Girls Were Served
/ We have heard lately Of two younl
girls of good character but thoughtlessl,
i foolish who came into town one after
noon from their suburban homes O.
4 the street they were accosted BY twl