The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-11-03

NNASH'
Otherwise there is no set rule, and the designs
are Of endless variety. For instance, there are
short basques and long ones, coat-shaped
basques and the close polka shape; and while
paniers are seen on a great many skirts, there
are almost as many with flat panels on the
sides and plain undraped breadths behind.
Thus individual tastes may be gratihed,
and ladies no longer appear to be dressed III
uniform. This is also true in regard to colors,
as there is no single color referred to as more
fashionable than others, and the all-black COS
tunes so long in favor are now enlivened by
colored trimmings of the gayest shades. Bro
cades that were displaced for season by
striped goods have re-asserted themselves,
and are now shown in all fabrics, from those
of the plainest wool up to velvet flowers on
satin, sold at $16 to 500 a yard. Siciiennes in
the fashionable shades of blue and red are i'm
ported to be used as parts of dresses, and satin
dc Lyon is preferred to gros grain, not merely
for its glossy surface, but because it does not
wear shiny or cut in the creases.
A basque with trimmed skirt is the ac-
cepted fashion of the season for both plain and
rich dresses the suit Of three pieces-basque,
overskirt, and lower skirts scarcely found
at all among the importations, though the
same effect is given by lower skirts that have
regular oyerskirts sewed in with the belt.
There are also many overdresses (the word pol
onaise is now little used by Partisan modistes)
with panier drapery or else in palmer redin-
cote style.
Among Worth's new fancies is that of cut
ting the edges of the front of basques into elon-
gated squares or "battlements." The front is
quite short and each side is slit to form five
battlemented squares, making ten on the
basque These stop at the under-arm seam;
there are then two side FORMS slightly longer,
while the middle forms of the back are in long
narrow habit shape. The squares are piped or
corded on the edges. Long side forms for the
back are not abandoned but the short forms
from the armhole are most used. Surplice or
shawl-shaped necks and longer pointed vest
pieces or reyers trim the fronts of dresses
Some of these bosom draperies are very full,
while flatter draperies are laid on others. The
full shirred waists are seen on many dresses OF
soft fabrics, but experience proves that this
fulness is best confined to the front, where it
gives round bust, and the back is more be-
coming when made plain, rs has long been the
fashion. Hooks and eyes fasten many waists
without buttons and holes, especially in the
gathered full waists where buttons would de-
Strov the effect, and also on sharply pointed
corsages. The eyes are now covered with but
ton-hole stitching of seWing-stlk the color OF
the dress.
In some combination dresses the lower skirt
and coat basque are of velvet, satin, cloth, or
corduroy, while the drapery, which in this in
stance forms short Marie Antoinette over
skirt is of camePs-hair; in other suits the coat
will be of figured velvet, the overskirt OF plain
wool and the lower skirt OF PLAIN velvet or
else the striped corduroy velvet.
The narrow point OF velvet is very styilSh 1or
trimming both cloth and silk dresses. This IS
something between plastron and a Vest, as IL
begins broad in the neck III the shoulder-seams
and ends in sharp point at the waist line.
Square collars of velvet shaped like bibs are
| also put on separately instead OF being seWed
| in as Pompadour square. The new surpnce
| or pointed necks have white crepe lisse folds
| inside, then small revers OF satin, Wnich mas
| also high turned-over collar attached 10 IL IN
| moderate Directoire style. Outside OF this
| revers and collar are three or four satin folds
| that pass around the back and widen low on
| the bosom, whera they are rounded instead OF
| being square-cornered, and are finished with
great bow. The large bows OF DIrectolre cos
fumes are seen on many dresses. Sometimes
this bow fastens the turned-over collar at the
throat while below is an open square with
guimpe or shirred filling of lace, muslin, Jet
beaded black lace, or of satin. There is then
| second bow below the open space, ana this Is
| usually at the left corner.
AS We have already noticed, the combina-
| ton of two materials is used in less patchy
| ways than formerly, though perhaps not SO eco
| nomically. Thus, instead OF Alternating forms
| of two materials in a basque, the entire basque
| is of one fabric while the skirt is of different
| stuff, with the basque fabric for trimming.
| The new cloth costumes have masculine
| STYLES peculiar to themselves. These are SKIRT
| ed coats, double or single-breasted, and per-
| haps the Tallien over-sklrt drapery, caught up
| HIGH on one hip and hanging straight else
| where. This drapery is sewed in the belt with
! the silk lower skirt, and conceals all the SILK
| not already hidden by two or three bands Oh
| the cloth covered with two or three rows OF
| stitching sewed on straight around without the
| siiohtest fullness The border flounce, even of
| the most modest proportions, is not now SO sty-
| lish as an edging of velvet two or three inches
wide, laid in box pleats and sewed on beneath
| the skirt braid.
Worth sends both very small and very large
| wraps also very plain and very elaborately
| trimmed garments For instance, black
| satin coat has no trimming but a separate vest
| of the richest figured India cashmere, W hlch
is longer than the black coat in front, behind
| and on the Sides A single large button at the
| this elegant garment. In opposition TO TINS
| are large black satin cloaks with Dolman
sleeves nearly covered with Jet embroidery
| Black camel 's-hair wraps are Short and nave
new closed puffed sleeves inserted IN the cllng-
| ing sides. .
| Large wooden buttons are used on cloth suits
| and wraps made by Worth. They come in
walnut wood alone, or in lighter oak and wal
| nut together. Another novelty in buttons is
| that of having them made of the material used
for trimming the dress, but instead of covering
| moulds with this fabric, they are regularly
! mounted on metal, with rims of steel, Jet, or
| gilt Another tasteful fancy is a set of buttons
| of cream white porcelain decorated in colors
| by hand, and each button bearing different
| device, as a bee, a bird, a spray of flowers, a
| fan, etc. Six buttons are furnished for the
| front of a coat, two of larger size for the
sleeves, and two still larger for the back of the
waist. New jet buttons for coats OF satin or
velvet are of smooth polished jet the size OF a
silver half dollar and are sewed on through
| two gold-rimmed eyes that ornament :he CEN
| tire.
Red cashmere underskirts of bright scarlet,
of cardinal red, garnet and wine-colors, are
| heavy enough for warmth. They are trimmed
| with Dleated founceS around the bottom and
up the back to the belt and are also provided
with regular hustle of curved whalebone set
| in cases at the top.
New point d'esprit laces for cravat bows
omit the points dots altogether, and are
| merely the plain Breton net button-holed in
saw-tooth notches, and laid in fine knife pleats
! Other patterns have the dots in rows crossing
the lace from the selvedge to the worked edge
Norristown Herald An article on the bum
| blebee in juvenile publication starts out with
Children, did you ever stop to consider the
power possessed by bumblebee?" And, chill
dren, we advise you to be very careful in max
ing investigations in that direction. When
you do stop to consider its power, always select
bumblebee that has white forehead. This
insect weighs less than am ounce, and doesn't
| carry q cnncealed Weannn. The kukIuX bum-