The weekly herald. [volume] (Cleveland, Tenn.) 1876-1888, 1879-10-09
The FASHIONS.

Fan-shaped brooches, deliberately
enameled with flowers, are in style.
Habit basques are ~unbecoming TO fat
women; but they will be the first to
adopt them.
Strings Of japanese blue soft tWilled
silk have gay gold, red and bluefgured
cashmere ribbon down the center, and
point d'esprit frills on the ends.
For black costumes the fancy viii be
that suggested last season Of having
brecaded velvet for the basque, and
plain silk or satin for the two skirts.
The wedding dress has a style of its
Own usually; but for the next season the
panier draperies and certain effects will
be used very much as they are for other
full-dress toilettes.
The felt poke bonnet will have change
able satin trimming, with narrower
cashmere ribbon sewed down the mid
die of the wide strings, andfeathers that
show cashmere colors in combination.
A new style of spoon, very small and
slender, is called old Newport and is
after Queen Anne's design. The spoons
are a representation of some ancient
spoons found at Newport, and are relics
Of the old days of 'Merrie England.
Some OF the cloths for overdresses and
for wraps have a melange of colors and
lines as artistic and as irregular as those
Of Turkish carpets. Some Of the most
expensive Of these goods have a great
deal OF silk in them, and this is nearly
all brought TO the surface.
The shot or changeable stuffs come in
repped goods, in s%atines, in twilled
serges and in cloth. Some are all wcol,
soft and flexible, while others have O
mixture OF silk, which is shown in tiny
specks or stitches; or. olteEer still, in
raised figures Of Eastern designs.
The high corsage and long coatsleeve
is the severe style that is preferred for
church weddings; but many basques will
have surplice drapery Of lace following
the outline of an open heart.shaped cor.
sage, and the transparent lace sleeves
reaching to the elbow will also be re-
tanned.
Bonnet ribbons come in changeable
effects in thick twills like silk SERGE
They are two and a half inches wide,
and will be used not merely for strings,
but for trimming the whole bonnet.
There are also twilled serges by the
piece to be cut bias; these show the shot
colors to good effect.
For dress bonnets are large shapes,
with the wide brim curved in three
places on the right side, and plain on the
left. These are very handsome when
made of satin antique in cream-color,
twilled silk OF the same shade for scarf
and shirred facing, and ostrich plumes
also of cream color held by a beetle OF
natural hues.
Byzantine point washes well, and is
much usedfor trimming; it initiates the
rich designs of antique laces. Russian
laces, in braid-like patterns, and cluny
lace, and point de RaguSe, are all fash
ionable on children's dresses. Black
Breton is principally used for millinery
purposes; it is almost too frail and in
effective for dresses.
Harpe r's Basar announces that hand
some black cashmere costumes are i'm
ported for general wear. 1t is now pre-
ferred that the skirt for such suits should
be of cashmere instead OF silk, and in
many French suits the skirt is made of
silk of light quality, but is covered in
all its visible parts with cashmere. Thus
a black silk round skirt will have the
whole front and side cores covered with
a single breadth of vely wide cashmere,
because the short front OF the ~polonaise
displays all the skirt front; but the back
of the skirt has the silk covered with
cashmere only about a fourth of a yard
above the border hounce, as the long
back OF the ~polonaise conceals it. To
make such skirts the cashmere breadth
is widely shirred down the middle fold,
and this shirring is sewed down the mid
die of the front breadth OF the skirt; it
has only this single row of stirring, and
ia shaped to slope with the second side
seam, where it is gathered in the whole
length Of the seam. The back breadths
are then partly covered at the bottom,
and the whole is finished with q border
founce; or, what is still more fashion.
able, a cluster of three.sided plaitings,
each three inches deep when finished,
and made to lap on the edges. The up
per and lower of these plaitings should
be of cashmere, and the middle one of
silk. The panier %polonaise is then elabo-
rately trimmed with wide black embroi-
derry in open-worked designs, OF with the
new fringe, or else with the gay India
cashmere stuffS, arranged to form q
ichu, collar, belt and cuffs.