, 1879-03-16
THE FASHIONS.

that fashion will restore the. very tamargo
which was occc called +" n rage aud vertigo"
but until it is safe to venture upon extravaganza
paniers will be OF the same material as the
dress, and'procured more by loopings, draperies'
and trimmings than by separate pulls, WINGS
etc, applied to the costume.
For ordinary walking dresses "trlumed ~
skirt-that is, skirt with the trimming ar
ranged directly on its combined with jacket
more or less tignt-htting, or an oversklrt and
short skirt, the latter either trimmed with
simple founce or left plain, according to the
goods used. Po1ouaises OF simple designs are
also employed to complete costumes, but are
not SO fashionable as the aforementioned ar
rauCements. For suitings the Il tailor Z" hnlsh-
rows of machine -stitchiug-is the accepted trim-
ming, the vest, collars, cufls, and revers OF
some different material from the rest OF the gar
,oent, For costumes Nude OF cloth and the
heavier yooleu goods used for early spring and
travelling, the undcrskrt is not unirequent1y
without trimming OF any kind, excepting seTeFal
rows OF stitching near the bottom, anu me over
skirt IS Of son,e simple dssgn les as IKE inc {
ishcd to match the unucrsk!rt.
THE FRANCESCA.
This Is one of the simplest and most practical
designs for trimmed walking skirt. 1t has
moderately boulI4nt drapery. aud is finished bv
a deep kit plating on the bottom. This skirt
is suitable alike for heavy or ighs goods, dressy
or ordinary wear, and is really an excellent de-
sign for washing fabrics. For dress; wear, or
where combustion Of materials is used, the
Berepire is especially desirable. This has
short, fuily-draped apron, from which rcVcrs are
tnrned back and carried TO the back, wherc they
support the drapery in a moderate pouI. Ao-
o;frr new stvle, especially suit able Tor summer
silks and grenadines, Is the Litta. which has the
apron and side gores pulled and the back effect
are used in the combination for street costumes,
and this applies to the simple suits made OF per-
Gale, cotton satine, marine cloth, and other
fairies for summer wear. Tie rule observed
when only two fabrics are used IS TO nave the
I costume Itself made entirely oil one goo.ls anu
| thc accessories and trimmings OF the Other
! There is wide scope for the exercise OF mucn
t taste in the selection and arrangement OF the
goods to be used IN combination, nna, WINE
Strong contrasts arc allowable. good tas1e dc
| tatcs that the arran cement must not be bizarre
| in effect.
There is no doubt that the present popularity
Of brocadcs. used in combination with plaln SILK
or velvet, has affected the sale and man ufacture
OF silks proper. Nevertheless, the latter class
| Of fabrics are always iu demand. American
brocades are in high favor. the supply for spriil
| being more varied and beautiful thau ever. Inc
snril,r STYLES are introduced iu all the fasniona-
bic colors, including several varieties IN garnet
shades, nayy-plue. drab. wood color' and " Nv
| crv u color, which has bccr SO popular during
the winter, and Wien combined with velvet
matching in shade forms rich aud e!esaht m eos,
| at Sl.5O rcr yard. All silk satins ol Amer
lean manufacture will also be- popular
dress materials this scason; lney arc
shown iu variety Of co'ors lor DAY ana eEcn!ts
| wear. and those IN dark shades, sprinkled with
| white .polka dots, are very beautiful. loes
are Of soft texture, drape gracefully, DO not
| Hcrumplc" easily, and are txenty-two inches
wide. Their price is ABOUT Sl.oo por yafa, nc.
HACK, with white POLKA dot" combined Wat!
Hack velvet, forms stsll5h costume. Summer
silks are cloudcd over BY chine patterns, which
show among small broken checks and stripes
| while others in small quiet plaids are loosels
woven. whence the name, serge quadril1ee, which
has been applied TO them. PeSn stripes ar al
shuwn in silks OF one cod, the satin and SILK
stripe alternating. Gulpnre is the name gl7ef
class Of opcn-work fabrics Of eilken texture
Ftfectiyg silks, either white or in pale shades
are wrought in jardiuiere stripes OF meolun
width.
.co1ors mite new and strange arc the Canaque
| or canubal, succession OIL copper snaues: tn
na1,e oefur given from the resefn nolance to lnf
| cxnncr con plcxiou OF tribe OF cannioals. Blu
Is iargely brought forward, anuappears Ill man.
GifTercnt shades but, with the exception OIL ths
Ozark marine blues or the palcst tin1s, n.AIuIe ar
of rrecu are often more or less apparent III
mnSt pronounced blue Of the season IS ca1'et
. sapphire, and this, but for an oVercastlng
! green, would be rival OF that pos1tivc piu u
. which for a long time has been conslsnea =
oblivion. Gendarne Is oaIh sluS 49,, ~ n+a 10
nnnis uud bleu de Seyrcs. Balti: blue is almos
, rray, and the clear, pale blues arc zoo q
| rractiye to be rclinQuished. rc1lo" Auu
| | good representation il tue new sp1t' eJ1o, ~
hut the sna,le most in favor is old goo. IA!
| ycllows are By no rncaus ignored, and IN nes
i1owars excellent results are produced oy snac
ings from pale yellow into reddish tlnts: na III
pejgc shades also appear frequently. 1at.te its
| AMI wine shades have taken new lease oI AAt
and are brought forward everywhere, ana III
, | shades. from such us are SO deep as 70 run
] | most into black up to others resempliuS ~
raIe red of lighter wines. PVoine (peony} IS
, combination OF garnet anu plum Go'oi: ~ .,
rouge is 4 new bright red. Dark plum IS mol :,
D tensively employed, yet serves Us a fasalonaol
: | color The lighter shades Of pruDe are nt
z much seen. This place seems to nave oce
usurpcd oy the vine colors, but it Is IN the pao
J. mixtures and changeable hues appear.
NEW STYLES IN TRIMMINGS.
j. Prominent in the list of choice trimmings al
l. ! the finely beaded passemeuteries, which repr'
duce some OF the designs already familiar, VIM
7 the more eIpensivs grades represent leaf pa
e terms OF various forns with pcrlectly-execuse
| tulips or fuchsias depending from the centre
the leaf Some OF the passemcnteries are r.
r | lieycd and frightened BY a delicate tracery
II gold or silver threads nterspersed 20 as to lor
arabtsque or Greciau designs throughout Il
10 pattern. The effect is rich, but ty no meal
n gaudy, and the styles aud prices are such as
render these goods rather exclusive, 1or TIL
T. At least, These cost from IS to $l2 per Jar
Il Painted bands for dresses arc seen Of cuqusi
- desien aud artistic beauty. These are palnts
ID by hand on velvet, satin. and silk -, Flowers
=. al their richest tints, birds OF brilliant plut
20 ooe. Jewels, Shells aud musical instruments 4
~ ~ painied Ei:n all skill ami fidelity to nature
20 rhese beautiful and artistic trimmings. FIRING
10 10 have by uo means lost their prestige, and nj
ID be had in as great diversity OF design as tlle
n nf frinses is from four to six inches, includ
- the heading. An entirely new fringe Is form