Staunton spectator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1849-1896, 1879-09-02
4 NIGHT WITH THE SARDINES.

"Sardina, sardina-Sardi-i-i-n fres.
cua-a-a-a!"
"Sardines, sardines-fresh sardines ~
Such was the shrill cry that reused
me at dawn on the first morning of my
presence in Lequeitio.
Lequeitio is an ancient and not much
frequented seaport en- the coast of Biz.
caya. almost impracticable to the stran-
ger even in fine weather, owing to its
numerous outlying rocks. just awash,
and utterly unapproachable in half q
gale. 1t is charmingly situated on the
inner bend of small gulf, and is pro-
tected from the full force of the Biscayan
waves by an island which stands in the
center of the curve, forming the minia-
ture bay of golden sand.
The Basque seamen retain their repu-
tation as being the best in Spain, and
can vouoh that the fishermen of Lequei.
ito are as fine and hardy set of fellows
as skipper need choose from. In their
long, unlocked, light-built galleys,
manned by patron and fourteen oars
men, rowing double-banked. when not
under sail, they put to sea, sometimes
never to return.
must tell you that 1 am now writ
ing of May, 1875, a period when the
Carlist war was desolating the north of
Spain. had been following, as cores
pondent, the movements of the Legit-
imist forces, and being weary and worn
had made for LequeitIo in search of re-
novating sea- breeAes, and few days of
peace and quiet.
AS luck would have it, when I was
wondering how I could make trip in
one of the galleys, the comandante de
armas or town major, to whom I had
delivered a strong letter of introduction
on the previous evening, sauntered
down the mole, followed by his orderly
carrying basket. The oid gentleman
was evidently intent on levying con-
tribution IN kind, and when the patron
of galley caught sight of him he STEP
ped ashore, shook hands with the vete-
ran of previous Carlist struggles, and
| himself chose at least couple of hun
dred of the choicest fish. The comman-
dante then passed the compliments of
| thu day with me, accepted cigarette,
and suggested that should buy dozen
or two of sardines, and have them cook
ed for breakfast at the seamen's tavern
close by. To this / assented, but on
condition that something beyond sar.
dimes should form the fare, and that he
and the patron of the galley should be
HHola, Clement Cruel" shouted the
commandante; there is a friend of mine
senior Inglese who asks us to break
| fast with him. What say you? I am
willing and 1 should think that an ap-
petite is not what you'll be wanting"
"Where, and at what hour ?"
"At the tavern OF the widow Marti-
nez at eight"
II accept, and will send the fish,"
looked upon the advent of the COM
mandante, just at the moment, as very
fortunate. was very desirous of making
a night trip in one of the galleys, but
hardly seeing how to work the project.
Now matters appeared more promising,
and felt pretty certain to pull through
before Clement Orue and I parted.
We found Clement Qrue awaiting US
at the tavern, and If savory meant any
thing, but little appetite would be need
ed to relish the meal. It is true, there
was but one common, bare walled,
smoke-incrusted, raftered room, with
seamen eating, drinking and soaking
hearty, frank set of fellows, who held
their glasses toward us as we entered.
A side table had been prepared tor our
party; and, certainly, not even in the
best of bondas, would be found whittier
cloth or napkins brighter, knives, forks
and spoons, or cleaner plates.
"Take you on a trip-well, I don't
know what to say. There is no room in
a galley for idlers, and if it came on a
breeze of wind, or the net got fouled, or
everybody's way. Besides. the men
mig6t4not like it, and you might get
lsick and after all, there isn't much to
isee; and + know, so far as am con-
earned, if I was not forced to do it, I
would sooner be tucked up comfortably
in bed than getting wet"
"Well, but look here, genor patron,
this kind of thing is not altogether new
| to me, though have never been after
the sardine. The fact is, was brought
up in fishing village, and could steer
and row when only eight years old. In
addition. I have knocked about at sea
considerably, have crossed the Atlantic
four times, have run through. blockades
on the American coast, and might, per-
haps, be able to bear hand if you were
pushed"
"Hola, caballero," exclaimed the pa
tron with beaming face; "hola, so you
are bit of salt yourself touch there ~
holding out his hand. "4ou shall
make trip, never fear, and it just hap
pens that am one short of my compile
ment."
Having noticed half dozen of the
crew at the center table. suggested te
Clement Orue that he should call them
over to drink the health of the new
hand. This was done, and I saw the
arrangement met with their entire ap-
proval, more especially that part IN
which was mentioned keg of aguardl-
ente and two or three bundles of cigars
Then it was agreed that the patron
should take his evening meal with me
in the same place, and that. wind anG
weather permitting, the galley would
cast off at nightfali.
Well, at the appointed time, founo
iClementi Orue awaiting me, and on
chair by his side rested formidable
looking bundle.
"Here I am, senior, and here's YOU
kit. There's just steady cap-fuli te
the northwest, which will be deae
against us working out, but fair 1ol
running in. AS it is more than prooa
BILE we shall get a wetting, l nave
brought you a stout flannel guernsey
and pair of oilskin overalls, so leav;
| vOur coat with the widow Martinez.