The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1879-10-24
CLASSIC COSTUMES.
What Was Worn by Grecian and Rom
Bellies.

What Was Worn BY Grecian and Roman
Bellies.
For the original constituents of wom-
ans attire after weaving had been in
vented we must look to the Greeks, the
pioneers of civilization in the ancient
world. The principal garments, the
"chitOn " and the himatiOn," had
been in use under one shape or another
from prehistoric times, but their gradu-
al development into parts of an Orna-
mental costume is due to the taste of
the Hellenic race, and, however altered
in cut and material, they still form to
the present day the essential items of a
wOman's dress. Originally the ''chiton''
consisted of an Oblong piece of wooden
or linen folded lengthwise, with hole
for the left arm, and the open side fas-
tened on the right shoulder with but
ton or pin. A girdle or belt adjusted
the ample folds of this simple garment
to the figure, and allowed the arrange
ment of any surplus length as fell over.
At later period two oblong pieces of
cloth or linen were introduced to form
the Chiffon. Fastened together on both
shoulders and on the sides with openings
for the arms, this arrangement might be
compared with two long pinafores, worn
in front and back. The next step in the
development of the Chiffon was to double
it from the neck, and thus form a Sec
Ond drapery, either short and girded
or hanging loose to the knees, and
even to the ankles on occasions of cere-
mOny. This arrangement was called
"diplOidOn, but soon became a sepa-
rate item of attire under the name of
chitOniOn," sleeveless Jacket, on
which the most elaborate OrnamentatiOn
of embroidery and braiding was lavished.
The " himation," or mantle, worn by
men and women, consisted of a large
square of the finest Milesian cloth, en-
brOidered at the border and corners, and
artistically draped over one shoulder, the
arms, the hips, and sometimes over the
head. No girdle was used with the
himatiOn, and the great art, was to ar
range the shawl-like mantle in graceful
folds over the Chiffon and chitonion.
The chlamys was another kind of man.
tie, adopted from the Macedonians- an
Oblong or circular wrapper of coarse
material, principally worn by men on
journeys. In very early times wool and
linen formed the exclusive dress mate
rails worn by the Greeks, and white was
their favOrite color. SamOs and Miletus
were famous for the manufacture of
wooden stuffs, and the islands of Kos
and AmOrgos produced the finest gauze-
like sericum or silk; but even Homer
knew already of the richly brocaded
textiles from Persia and of the garments
dyed with Phenician purple. At later
period cotton was introduced for the gar
ments of the lower classes. OF under
garments worn, if any, there is no rec
ord, but sandals and shoes held prom
inent place among the ornamental dress
items of Greek lady. The bands which
fastened the sole to the foot are de-
scribed by Homer as shining and
golden" and the half-bOOts from lydia
and Tyrrhene were of brightly cOlOred
leather, studded with gold ornaments
and embroidered with pearls. Graceful
as the appearance of Greek lady must
have been, arrayed in a richly orna-
mented diploidon or himation, the shape
of her head-dress and the manner in
in which her hair was arranged would
scarcely have found favor with modern
critics. A fringe of curls, to make the
forehead appear as low as possible, and
the remainder of the hair brushed back
to form a sort of apex with tOpknot, is
decidedly unbecOming to most faces,
and curious bandages, nets and caps,
which kept the arrangement in its place,
can not be considered as an improve
ment. Only when diadem or veil was
worn, the modern idea of a classical |
head is fully realized. The costume of
the Roman was an adaptation of the
Greek attire, the " tunica interior :" rep
resenting the clifton, the "tunica ex-
terror" or "stola" the diploidon, and
the :" tOga" or "palla" the himation.
The under tunic was originally a long
chemise sewed on the sides, with sleeves
reaching, in early times, scarcely to the
elbow; but later, under the rule of the
Emperors, descending to the wrist and
terminating in fringes or borders.
When tho Greeks invented the diploidOn
the Roman women at once adopted the
new fashion as an over tunic and called |
it stOla. 1t was shaped on the same
principle as the tunica interior, but
much longer and of ample width, beside
being deliberately embroidered on the
OOAuOAo 40 well % 1TOut 6UU TOuUU the
neck, and the train sometimes weighted
with gold ornaments. The tunica inte-
rior used to be worn in the house without
a belt, but no lady appeared IN public
without having her stole cinctured round
the waist and drawn up in front, to show
her pretty shoes or sandals, while her
and plated train swept the
ground. The belt (semi-zona) twas made
of various materials more or less costly,
according to the rank of the wearer, and
of elaborate workmanship, with pearls
and stones, when worn with the short
stole. The Roman mantle, or toga,
consisted of piece of wooden cloth,
ample to envelop the whole
figure when necessary, and allow a por-
ton to be pulled over the head for pro-
lection from the weather. How to drape
the toga or palla-as the corresponding
mantle worn by women was called
graceful folds over the stOla, so as to
show the embroidered parts of the tunics
and the figure to the best advantage,