Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1879-03-18
NO. 20.
miscellaneous.
FASHIONS FREAKS.
SPRING BoNNETs,-NEw LINGERI, AND
OTHER NOVELTIES DEsCRBED BY ''HAR-
PER's BAZAR.'

The large bonnets to be introduced with
the first warm days of spring are not the
flaring coronet shapes lately worn to frame
the face and surround it as with halo.
The new wide hrms extend forward as
we'll as upward, and begin to widen at the
point where they first leave the crown, just
as the old-time scoops and poke-bonuets
did. This widened brim is faced inside
with shirred satin or with smooth dark
velvet, or else with the dantiest India mus
lin this facing begins an inch or less from
the edge of the fine braid, which is left
bare. and has no wire in it, and the ex-
tremc edge of the facing is often visible
from the front.
Other hats with garnet velvet facing
have simply two long cream yellow
pumes beginning below the crown and
curling up to the top thus surrounding it.
TO dispose these plumes gracefully, to
prevent the satin folds and loops from
looking stifly regular, and to have the fac
ing smooth. are necessary items that are
not as easily done as would seem at n
glance. The large long-looped bows are
now worn further back on the bonnet, be-
hind wreath or branch of large flowers
thickly clustered. or else they are put quite
in the middle of the crown.
Among the new ornaments are straw
beads strung in fringes and in patterns as
galoon. The tinsel galoons are also shown
in colors busted with silver or with gold.
Brazilian beetles are mounted on brooches
or in sprays with gilt settings to ornament
the brocade of greeu-blue shades, and also
the white chip or braid bonnets. The
white crystals are brilliant in silvered set
tings in buckles, brooches, crescents and
bees. The jet ornaments for black lace
bonnets are the handsomest vet imported
and they will be largely used again
BrOcaded ribbons are shown in japanese
designs deicately tinted, and so artistically
done that they look like water-color paint
ings. These are beautiful on the Tuscan
hats for the watering places.
Rustic straw bonnets, to be worn with
morning and travelling suits, show two or
three bright colors mingled with the black
or brown braid that forms the greater part
of the bonnet For country use are yellow
>traws with satin-like lustre. trimmed with
brocaded red and yellow gauze ribbon,
forming an Alsacian bow behind bunch
Of scarlet poppies.
The black net bonnets are most often all
black. with jet ornaments, jet feathers,
and black Breton lace for trimmings; the
material of the bonnet is Brussels not of
very small meshes. without dots, laid
smoothly over the frame. When colOrs
are used on them, they are the new tea
shades, old-gold embroidery, white, or
Prince of Wales red.
The combination of colors most seen is
that of dark red with cream-color; this
arrangement is As popular for blondes as
tor the brunettes by whom it was original
ly used. The pale Sevres blue is used
with tea-color, and to these is sometimes
added Jacqueminot red in the way of
roses or buds not quite blown.
Panama tweeds are now loosely woven
wool goods of light weight for spring and
summer dresses. They are woven in
small checks of three or four threads each
way. suggesting the Panama canvas used
for embroidery. They come in tan, beige.
and gray checks with white. The new
Cheviot striped woods are narrow stripes
of two grave shades, with the lighter
stripe marked by broad Cheviot twills;
this will make useful and pretty travelling
dresses.
Short scantily- -gored skirts of gray mo-
hair are made up for Balmoral petticoats
They are either plain or striped have but
one side gore, and are trimmed with one
or two pleated tlounces. The pleatings
are in clusters. or else plain x-pleatings.
They begin a low as 75 cents, but the
incest have rows OF black velvet heading
the flounces, and cost $3.50. For nicer
Balmorals black alpaca is used.
New white muslin skirts are trimmed
with two or three pleated frills of Hamburg
embroidery. They still continue to be
made with deep yokes at the top, and the
longer skirts have fan trains.
New French chemises are made with
closely fitted bands that button on each
shoulder, instead of in the front. The band
aronnd the neck is formed of the small
turks done by hand, and there are clusters
of tucks six or seven inches deep. sepera-
ted by spaces extending lengthwise down
the front; such chemses, made of nice
French percale. are Sl.15.
Louis Quatorze iabots made very full and
very long. are the dressy novelties pro-
vided instead of the small bows They
are made of the sheerest India muslin, laid
in many fine pleats, and shell-shaped loops
edged with great deal of Breton lace.
Some of these reach To the waist line, and
others, it is said, will extend to the end of
the vest.
Small loops of pleated muslins and Bre-
ton lace are shown for cravat bows in
white, pink and blue for - cents to 81.
The pretty butterfly bows cost from 60
cents to - each.
The tavorite pleating for neck and wrists
of dresses is also of Breton lace in two
rows. one of which is wider than the 9TH
er.
Scarfs of fine net edged with Breton lace
are used for two purposes. They may be
worn as bonnet-strings that begin on the
crown in bow, or in pleatings, or else
they may serve as a scarf for the neck, to
be tied in large bow at the throat, and
the ends folded straight down in front to
the waist.
The Oriental turbans now worn for
breakfast caps costs from 81. % upward.
according to the value of the handkerchief
used in making them. Silk handkerehiefs
to match the wrapper or the short costume
are most used, but very picturesque tnr-
bans are made of Algerian scarfs of soft
bourette woods of gay colors on white or
black grounds. >1-
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