Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-22
HOME DRESsMAKING. 4
Hints for Amateur Drcssmakers-
How Dresses Should be Cut and
Trim med.

The great test of the manner in which dress
IS mace Is what dresslnaSerS call its set" Tao
c0stliest materials look shabby If boddcaS are IL
nttlng ana skirts hang awry. Therefore, in
cutting care must be taken that pattern AMI
goods are laid as true and straight as the carpen-
lef's RUE and plumb; in basting, that neither
see Is stretched nor yet held unduly full and in
stitching. that the tensions OF the sewing m.-
chine are exactly right. On these three points
the success of the work chiefly depends
In this day OF perfectly-titting paper patterns
IL Is easy to ft dress; indeed II the pattern is
properly selected it will lit the first time without
alteration If the printed directions which come
should be easy across the bust. Nothing looks
worse than to see dress pulling at the button
holes. A strip of the dress material should be
stitched down the front, On the edge where the
buttons are to be set. This will come under the
button-holes when the dress is fastened, and
prevent the unsightly glimpSes OF white under
meath, which are apt to appear when this is not
done. In order to insure the perfect tit of a
dress across the bust the best dreSsmakers usu-
ally place fold OF wadding inside when fitting
1t. The inside bet fastened to the back OF the
bodice al the waist line Is of the greatest impor
lance, since 1t holds the back In place and pre-
vents any possible slipping. The best test OF a
Meil-nit1ng dress Is that while it displays the
figure to the b,.st advantage and shows neither
crease nor wrinkle ii gives perfect ease to the
Wearer. To use the words OF an experienced
ann sn ule ods dist ~ tits like agove-yet
The favorite collar OF the season is the Eng
fish collar. An excellent mode Of making this
Is TO take bias strip of the material two Inch S
wide, and line it either with the same or with
SILK II the dress is trimmed with silk. and an
lnttrlining OF wiggin to give the required stiff
ness. This band must be rounded at the cor
collar, is often added to this. Many dresses are
n}ade with separate vests which may be re-
moved, leaving V-shaped opening, to be filled
in with lace when desired.
BasqueS with points in front and coat-shaped
backs are very popular. Others have a broad
bias band ADDED around the bottom. giving the
effect OF Louis Nv. coat a fashion which af-
fords a n easy method of remodelllng last year S
dresses.
Very few dresses are now made with separate
OverSkirtS The foundation OF the skirt is of
cambria or calico, alpaca or foulard silk. This
IS faced for few inches from the bottom with
the dress material; Trimmed with fiounceS Or
pleating as far up as desired and the material
Is then draped to form a simulated tunic.
Shirrcd fronts are very fashionable. Pieated
ones are still worn, although less liked than q
few weeks ago. Most OF the trains are square,
and some OF them are made to take OF at will,
thus making or one and the same dress a hand
some short suit, Or trained dinner dress as
emergencies require.
If possible, a dress should always be draped
either upon the person who is to wear it or on
some one else as near her size as possible The
scarf dr3pery is still much used for evening
in two loops, one falling over the other, where
the fullneSS OF the train commences behind,
and thence carry across the front, putting in
pins here and there, taking care not to pull it,
and fasten the otLer end with loop and end be
low the drapery OF the train. The scarf should
be arranged in IRE gularly graceful folds rather
than in a set: flat style. The new paniers are
more Scarfs han paniers, and are arranged quite
low down. They are put on directly at the belt,
extend over the hips, and often hang in sash
ends low down On the train. SHRED trains
with the fullness at the waist drawn into
broad cluster OF closely-gathered shirrlng and
thence hanging plain, are new feature this
season. Very many tabs and tOngue-like points
are seen on imported dresses These are often
n mo 2 wall
bound with SATIN Full box-pleatings, Or tiny
knife pleatS, are set underneath them, showing
In fans between the tongues. A new and stylish
shell trimming is of velvet, lined with satin and
set on in full double-boX pleaJS, caught through
the center like a ruche The top of the pleat
then has the upper and lower edges fastened to-
gether, forming sort Of shell trimming and
showing both the satin and velvet. This may
mere and silk.
A great deal of brioche goods is used for dress
trimmings this season. Very dark materials,
Gamers hair, cashmere and silk are used with it,
1t is almost impossible to give clear idea of
how dresses are made In mere words. No two
are alike, and changes are rung In every posi-
BILE combination OF color and material. Killing
continues to be the trimming most generally
used. This fashion has lasted longer than any
other, yet there are few dresses made into the
composition OF which 1t does not enter. Very
narrow killing, known as knife pleating and
wide folds are alike popular. Much of it is done
by steam by regular machine pleaters, at great
saving OF time and trouble. For ordinary fabrics
this answers very well, although some risk is
always run: The heat used is apt to be too
great, and the material Is sometimes Scorched.
SILK, however, should never be steam pleated,
for it robs it Of its beauty and gloss and makes
1t look as though 1t had been dyed or cleaned,
while satin and velvet are literally ruined by
steam pleating, and when done by hand should
never be hot pressed. The hand machines
which come for rleating are excellent and save
much trouble. In using these for handsome
goods it is well to put the machine under press
instead OF ironing the pleat1ng. If you do not
wish to stitch your Killed nounce down upon the
dress, put tape underneath and stitch it upon
that, then sew to the dress by hand. For a
flounce it Is always well to set a second tape
about third OF the depth from the lower edge
and stitch or tack it underneath before putting
it upon the skirt.
Folds to set well should always be cut Exactly
upon the bias, and lined with wlggin. To
border fiounce or tunic with silk fold, place
the dress on the wrong side. Then turn the
fold over and basic carefully. Turn In the upper
edge of the silk. which should be cut wide
again on the right side, and sew with blind
stitches on the wrong. Folds of velvet or satin
or brioche must be put on in the same way;
In hemmtng bias founces great care should be
taken not to stretch the flounce. A leading
firm In this city who pride themselves on the
exquisite manner in which their suits made to
order are finished never suffers a hem, straight
or bias to be turned by machine, every hem
being carefully basted by hand.
Inc SeU VI OreSS SklflS depends mucn upon
the scoop given them in front at the top of the
gore. French dreSSmakerS leave the side
breadthS two inches longer at the top than the
front gore in order to secure this, and most
paper patterns are deeply scooped out on the
hip. Care should also be taken that the skirt is
slOped evenly at the bottom. In order to do this
spread 1t out on the floor and slope both sides at
once from the front. The facing should be cut
to fit each gore, then stitched together, sewed
to the bottom of the skirt, and turned up and
sewed again at the top. Skirtbraids should
always be Shrunk before putting them on. Then
stitch by machine on the right side and turn
ing over hem by hand on the wrong.
F1chu shaped and Surpl1Ce trimmings are very
popular for the necks Of dresses. A new style
consists OF scarf folded around the neck and
drawn by close shirring for six inches from the
end. The length of the scarf is from one and
quarter to one and half yards.
In sewing on fur bands lay the fur on the gar
ment, with the wrong side up, leaving the width
OF the strip OF skin between 1t and the edge of
the cloth. Hem the band on along the very edge,
taking care not to catch the felt in the thread
While sewing. Turn over when done and hem
again In the same manner where the fur band Is
Joined through the middle. Turn down again
ment, making three turns of sewing. This Is
good deal OF trouble, but 1t is the proper way to
do the work, and pays In the end.-[I leilndelpIia
Times.
What Paints the Autumn Leaves.
The green coloring matter of leaves has been
recently re1nVeStigated by NJ. Frenzy, and his re-
suits shed some light on the cause OF the colora-
loo n1f