Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1879-04-23

TIES.
The revival of Pompadour and Mari,
Antoinette styles is the most notable feature
OF the display at the Openings at fashion
able modistes' and furnishing houses. Thu
panier drapery, which is the distinguish
ing characteristic of these STYLES. is seel
on the richest trained dresses for reception
and dinners, and on toilettes of simple
fabrics for carriage, visiting and hous'
dresses. This bouffant draping is the re
action that follows the too elinging prin
cesse dress, and is formed by scarfs OF
short upper skirts laid in soft pleats thai
curve away from the front of the fgur,
over the hips. and are lost in the punched
up drapery of the back breadths.
The richest Pompadour brocades and
Marie Antoinette stripes are used for these
dresses in satin, Chambery gauZe and silk
with flowers, fringe and lace trimmings
The figured fabric is used for the corsage,
the painters and train, while the skirt is
of plain goods. Shirred silk plastrons are
down the front of many cOrsages, with the
panier curying away gracefully on the
sldes, and pyramids of pleatings on the
lower part of the petticoat front. The
flowers for trimming are used in most
original WAYS.
The paner draperies are repeated IN
brocaded grenadine and silk dresses pre-
pared for visiting and dry wear. When
these are black, the trimming is Jet used
most lavishly in wide netting. in passemen-
terie, fringe. ornaments and lastly in
laces. Worth sends black brocaded gran-
adines with the trained skirt draped over
the hips by closely-folded scarf edged
with jet lace; broad panel of jet down
the middle of the front breadth holds full
pleating that covers the three front
breadths.
Another feature introduced by Worth is
the revival of shot silks with two colors
mingled: these were formerly called
changeable silks, and are used in plain eff
fects, with striped satins to correspond.
Blue and gold changeable silk is combined
similar silk onwhich are haif-inch stripes of
blue satin; red and green changeable
silks, pink with gray, and other quaint
combinations, are used in the same way.
The striped fabric forms broad vest, and
hangs in long scarf-like ends down on the
front of the skirt; the side forms of the
polonaise are of the plain silk, and are
the striped middle forms of the back.
Pompadour foulard dresses, so long pop
ular with Parisians, are now shown at all
the openings. Their gay lowered chintz
designs are similar to what was once pop
ularly known as the Dolly Warden patterns
and the style of making is also in the Dolly
Warden fashion. The overdress is panier
polonaise, with the long fronts curved be-
low by being carried up high on the hips
to meet the middle forms of the back.
Mummy cloth dresses are among the
gayest of the imported cotton dresses, and
are made entirely of one-striped fabric,
over which chintz figures are strewn.
The waist is a panier basque like that H.
Illustrated in the present NUMBER the short
apron overskirt is shirred up the middle
of the front and on the sides to follow the
curved and bouffant in the back The
edges of the basque and overskirt are ruff
fled, and the lower skirt is kilt-pleated in
front, where it is quite short, while the
back is a ruffled dem-train
Silk handkerchiefs are introduced for
making handkerchief costumes in the way
hitherto confined to Madras bandanas.
They are creamy white silk like twilled
foulard, with quaint tracery and borders
of black, blue or red they are used for
the bouffant overdress, with plain foulard
skirts.
The newest wraps have panier attach
ments and bouffant backs. At the first
glimpse these appear sensational. but it is
suggested that they will give the new eff
feet to last years costumes that they have
no paniers. Pingat makes a small round
cape of Sicilienne. deeply edged with net
ted Jet the front of this extends long like
basque, and is curved back over the hips
and draped there in small bouffant loops :;
the arms come out from under the cape.
and are not covered.
Evening wraps for balls and the opera
are made of new white brocades, partly
silk and partly wool, in patterns that look
like embroidery, and are trimmed with
white cord and pearl passementeries, cord
fringes and white Spanish lace. A long
scarf of white Spanish lace is then worn
over the head and shouders-a becoming
fashion that some ladies are using over
their bonnets.
White muslin dresses for the house have
graceful panier basques and Pompadour
polonaise with the curved fullness in one
with the corsage; yet there are others in
which the basque is long Louis Quatorzc
coat of the muslin, with much embroidery
and jabots edged with Breton lace.
Creamy white bunting is now made so thin
and fine and of such light weight that it
is used in simple evening dresses for the
watering places, and is especially stylish
for elaborate morning wrappers.