The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-09-06

lOHS anu Is uiNlueu lulO TWO udITOW euuS,
which are finished with fots of black
. satin ribbon. A large cap-ike fichu of
/ black Spanish lace is secured at the mid
) die of the back, passes over the shoul-
ders and fastens over the breast with a
: bow or bouquet de corsage. Another
, handsome imported dress is made ali in
one garment. 1t is of black gros-grain
silk, with long train, unconcealed by
, drapery, inserted in fine shirrs little be-
low the waist-line. Two rows of plisse
form the trimming. The front breadths
are of black satin, almost entirely COW
cred with heavy jet passementerie, over
which falls satin tablier, shirred
through the center. The waist is of silk,
J with basque fronts and simulated satin
vest.
Basques unlike the costume are worn
abroad, and to some extent here. They
are of silk or satin, usually of some light
shade, in stripes or brocade pattern, and
are only suitable for house dresses.
They are prettiest worn with silk skirts,
either of black or some very dark color,
or with white Swiss. A very pretty one
may be made of white and pale blue
striped satin, with rounded or pointed
fronts and Directoire backs.
For wedding dresses the coming winter
tho preference will be giveu to white
satin. For trimming, lace and laminee
and fly fringes will be used. Pointe lace
is the most elegant; but if the bride is
very youthful, it is by some deemed un-
suitable. Breton lace is now being used
for trimming wedding dresses, and is en-
ployed in great profusion. 1t may be
gathered or plated, according to fancy,
but should never be put ON plain. The
trains of wedding dresses are as long as
those worn last season, and are frequently
left to flow from the waist in long un-
broken folds, uncovered by overdress or
scarfs. In this case the tablier may be of
brocade or of the same material as the
dress, elaborately trimmed.
WRAPS
For the early fall there will be re-
sumption of the stylish and convenient
little mantles worn in the spring, of
India cashmere and other light wool ma
terial, plentifully decorated with lace,
fringe and Jet. A little later SiciIienne
will make its appearance, and, even when
unlined, can be worn until quite cool
weather. Bengaline sole will be used for
wraps to some extent. The all-wool
Siclienne will only be made into light
inexpensive wraps for early fall use. The
shapes still adhere to dolman styles for
dress, and to plain sacque form for ordin-
ary use. Middle aged and old ladies wear
the dolman styles for all occasions. The
d0lmans or mantles are made about forty
inches long, and are the same length all
around. There should be center back
seam, and the sleeves are put on in long
seams extending over the shoulders and
down the front. Sometimes, when the
sleeves or half capes are large and cumber-
some and liable to fall out of place when
the hand is dropped, they are tied togeth-
er with wide ribbons crossing the front.
A handsome garment of this kind from
Worth's, for fall wear, is of black Sici-
lienne. 1t is in sacque form, with dol
man sleeves, which are tied together with
bands of jet three inches wide. 1t is on
ly thirty inches long, but is heightened
by sewing-silk fringe ten inches deep,
with wide netting covered with cut-jet
beads. Wide jet galloon passes up the
centre of the back, and follows the seam
which joins the sleeves to the main part
of the garment, and also ornaments the
front, nearly concealing it. Sacques will
be shorter than heretofore, the proper
length now being thirty-four and thirty
six inches. A great preference will be
shown for all masculine coats; but these
are only for young ladies' The frock
coat, with full skirt, is the most popular
style, and should button closely in front.
Fine checked cheviots and mixtures are
the materials most chosen for these styl-
ish garments. They are sometimes fin
ished on the edge with two rows of ma
chine stitching but are never trimmed.
These jackets are pretty and stylish for
walking and shopping, but for calling
and the theatre dressier garment is re-
quired. There is every indication that
ulsters will be more popular than ever
this winter. For fall, or for wearing
over a knitted Cardigan jacket in cold
weather, they are made of dark checked
cheviots unlined, and for real winter use
are of heavier grade of cloth, with a
thick lining which ends at the waist-line,
avoiding unnecessary thickness over the
hips. They may be either single or
doube-breasted. Some Of the newest de-
signs fit the figure closely, with single
dart in front. The collar is wide and
rolling, and under it the hood is fastened
so it may be worn or discarded at pleas
ure. Cross-seams over the hips, to make
the garment set smoothly, are concealed
by very large flap pockets. The sleeves
have large square cuffs.
MILLINERY.
For early fall and even until cool
weather chips in black and dark shades
will be worn, The trimmings will also
be in dark colors, relieved by bright
feather or bunch of flowers. A very
pretty bonnet for early fall has wide
brim turned toward the face, slightly de-
pressed in the center, but very narrow
in the back, setting close on the hair. 1t
is of dark brown chip, and is faced with
r. IL