Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-03-21
Classic Costumes.

DRESS FOR WOMEN.
Every few years some enthusiastic woman
comes forward with a plan for changing the
dress OF her sex and incidentally reforming in
Vulnerable abuses OF the laws of health and
good taste. Amelia Biooraer was the last per-
son who made any converts to a change in
outer clothing, and all her disciples have long
ago died or lost faith In her, and the Costume OF
which she was the advocate can only be found
In some water cures and few eymaaSiumS,
and possibly at Vineland, n. j. Then came the
American dress reform movement. and gene
raj change In the style or Undercothing. not
only In the United States, but in England.
France and even Germany. Tricky gathered
garments. with straight seams were replaced
by others, gOred and shaped TO the figure; two
garments were made into one, end all were ar
hung from the shoulders and for time wo-
men seemed to be contented. The pretty prin-
cess dress, or notifications OF It, which did
justice to good figure when worn with this
underclothing, was so graceful that one could
hardly believe IL modification OF the COM
paratively ugly "empress, OF dozen years
was 10th to forego 1t when fashion threatened
to substitute the Sacque or Louis XVI. painters
forit Several English ladies OF taste, determined
either TO keep their princess dress or something
very like 1T, and not TO be transformed into the
likeness OF Marie Antoinette's maids of honor,
cient Greek dress, with yery siipht m@dif;ca.
tons. This costume consists OF two p,es,es
the chiffon and the himation, or shawl, as il IS
usually called by Its advocates The former IS
gown, which may be either high or low neck
ed, short or long sleeved but which should be
scanty, and should have as few seams as posi-
Ole. IL may be or cotton, linen, silk or wooden,
but should not be stiff, and 1t may be Just long
enough TO touch the ground or may have
train. Its color may Be white, saffron, blue,
striped, figured, or even checkered. The shawl
may be OF the same or OF different material to
the Chiffon, and is simply seamless piece OF
cloth about two yards square, or, according to
the rules laid down by some ladies' two wards
by four. The Greeks threw this garment over
the left shoulder. brought it round under the
right ARM tand then threw it over the left Shout
der again, adjusting the folds with as much
grace as possible. The English ladies draw two
OF the corners over the shoulders, leaving long
loop to fall below the waist at the back, and
drawing the edges together at the 'front.' pro-
ducing an effect not unlike that OF an overskirt
opening slantwise down the center. This ar
rangement leaves all the limbs Free and is per.
fectly easy and graceful; but ii takes both time
and taste, and some ladies prefer to fasten
the shawl In its place by loops passing over but
quiIes but few moments to draw its folds into
place.
The trimming of the Chiffon and shawl may be
OF infinite variety, from alpaca braid to Oriental
embroidery: 1t may be wrought into patterns OF
complicated richness, or laid on In straight
bands The proper place for 1T is around the
ton, the wrists OF the sleeves around the neck,
possibly down either side or the opening fn
front. The shawl may be edged with fringe and
may have tassels at the corner to hold It In
place, according to the ancient Greek custom,
OR may be left as 1t comes from the loom. There
is no lack OF chances TO display handsome Jew
erly with the dress. The shawl is claSped on
the shoulder by ornaments that may be large or
small, as one pleaSes; the girdie may flash with
diamonds, and rubieS may glow at throat or
wrist, or even clasp the gown from throat TO
hem and the sleeves from wrist TO shoulder II
ole please, without Offending against classic
taste, so that the love OF oStentation can be
gfatifled as easily while wearing this simple
dress as when arrayed in the regulation ''suit
OF four pieces"
Several OF the persons who have objected to
the costume asks why the princess may not be
substituted for the Chiffon, and the answer to
this inquiry is that the latter is more simple to
| make aid easy to fold, and therefore to be pre-
ferred TO the princess, although IL does NOT hit
| quit SO smoothly. The shawl needs no recon-
meEdatiOn to any one who has once seen It.
| and few who have do not hope for its introduc.
| ton. There is some danger that its English
| advocates will create prejudice against il By
calling II dress for persons OF culture, and
seeming to restrict its use to class, thus con-
demnlDg 1t to an existence as restricted as that
| OF the elegant pre- Raphaelite gowns; but it Is
| to be hoped that II 1t should make It's appear.
ance here American women will have more
sense than to speak OF IL as the property OF q
| clique. The most beautiful woman cannot wear
| IT In public without attracting disagreeable OBJ.
Servation until II Is put within the reach OF all,
| and its general adoption will not depart from
| the peculiar grace OF those who display most
ance on our shores is still dream OF the future
| and for the present American women viii fol.
| low French and not Athenian fashions Boston
| TRANSCRIPT