The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1879-10-12
FASHION TALK.
The Best Fashion Magazines.
Styles in the EARLY Days of the Repub-
lic-What to Wear Now.

Picture galleries have come to be the best
fashion magazines, and old portraits the best
models LII the world. One primitive thought
may sometimes be discovered running
through ages Of art. discernible, 1t may be,
In the knotting of the hair or the shaping of
the bodice From the dust Of o hundred at
tics these ideas are exhumed In the shapes Of
old satins and silks THAT had long lain hid"
We think the women or old dressed "better
than they knew: the conscious silk to beauty
grew" end they would probably be much as
tonished IL a modiste OF the present day
should interpret to them their own toilettes.
We hope the shades OF Vandyck, Reynolds
are not shocked ut the homely uses to which
their high art has been devoted, their gall
leries OF patrIolan beauty becoming fashion
plates for the populace.
FASHION MAKERS.
Fashion-makers get some Of their most ar
tlstic ideas from old pictures in which the
beauty and grace OF other years have been
perpetuated and lmmortalized. Their genius
is made manifest In their ability to develop q
costume into full-blown perfection from q
mere hint received on canvas. We think they
have every right to claim that they have
planted this sacred hill with fresh laurels.
Worth has taken this field with AL easy mas
terry on occupation that challenges our HON
age. IL ID d sort OF ''squatter" sovereignty,
however, for he has invaded territory that
nature pre-empts for women, and the com
Ing" woman will certainly dispossess and IN
crown him.
FASHIONS IN wASHTEGTONs DAY.
4.
some of the portraits Of the time OF our first
President. That which takes precedence is.
OF course, Mrs. Washington. whom We find
attired In the familiar and most becoming
Pompadour corsage and the pretty .'elbow
sleeves" that have revealed to US SO many
white and shapely arms In tho last year or
two. But Id the same breath with which we
commend the costume, we criticize the Golf
fure The forehead, which she transmitted
to her son and which admirably became him,
Ia overnight and unfeminine, and should have
been shaded by a soft, low arrangement OF
the beautiful and abundant hair, which Is
sternly and remorselessly drawn back, and
no sign given OF It's final disposition. The
pearls, which are stitlly inwoyen among the
bands OF hair, could not look more out of
place on the brow Of her "eonquering hero"
The next three, those OF Mrs. Duer, Lord
Strings daughter, Mrs. lizard and Mrs.
Hamilton, although likenesses or beautiful
women, are % artificial with their towering
Pompadour rolls and mounds OF powdered
hair, that they inspire no feeling except OF
intense amazement that lone small head
could carry such a line Of Notifications"
Actually health and cleanliness should forbid
such barbarous deeds.
In charming contrast to these portraits is
that Of Mrs. Lawrence Lewis, the beautiful
Nellie Custis, whose nearest descendants are
living among us here. The head Is 80 perfect
that 1t looks almost ideal, and the depth and
lustre OF her speaking eyes seem to be en-
phasized by the easy grace OF the self-ar-
ranged hair that shades and frames her face.
The arm, which was still beautiful when she
almost reached her four-score years. Is ex-
posed to the elbow In the fashion OF that day,
ana the costume worn Is harmonious and pic
turesque. One can readily understand how
Mr. Lewis cORld eZalaim forgivinRly, after
having waited three mortal hours for his
gnawing within him, while his unready wife
made her tardy toilette, "who would not be
hen-pecked by such eyes?'
We cannot linger over the charms OF person
and dress OF all those lovely women; but II
any OF our readers would like to Gull some
ideas for personal use from the Beauties OF
the Republican Court. we will refer them es
pecally to the portraits Of Mrs. Chauncey
LoOdIlcn, MITE IHoS. haldolpH anu MIS-.
John Jay, as being among the rarest. The
solution OF the charm is not In the greater
beauty of one over that OF another, but in the
more artistic treatment and presentation OF
the whole outer woman.
HAIR.
IN our last talk" we threatened cur readers
with homily on hair, but friend has said
to us warningly, "don't preach" and now we
dare not say serious word. But as fashion
u inevitably didactie we may be permitted to
into q mill and all ground out alike, but use
the liberty that permits individuality. and
aont go wandering about your eoiffures In
meaningless or fantastic way. Study well
recognise your years il you do not confess
them. Remember that Grecian knots and
low braiding belong to youthful and symetri-
cal heads. and high couture should be
adopted where age and contour demand 1t.
Nearly all faces are softened and sweetened
by an easy disposition OF the hair about the