The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1879-09-04
Wboien DRESSES for Fail.

Wbolen Dresses for Fail.
DARK cloth colors in the new shades
of amaranth, Rembrandt green, prune,
Burgoyne, golden brown and ducks
breast blues are shown in the new
wooden dresses being prepared in the
furnishing houses for early fall wear.
The materials are camers-h cloth,
cashmere ard new fabric called toile
de sanglier, which is regularly woven,
yet has a rough surface, and resembles
bunting made sufficiently heavy to
serve for warm winter dresses. The
trimmings are satin of the same shade,
silk plush borders, many rows of ma
chine stitching, wide wooden braids,
and gay contrasting silks in Scotch
plaids or in most intricate mosaic de-
signs. The shirring 50 popular dur
ing the summer will not be given up,
and there will be the usual variety In
pleatings, from the fine knife pleating
like crimping to the broadcast killing
and box pleats.
The coat basque and pleated round
skirt will be one of the stylish designs
for wooden dresses. The basque is
short and even all around, or else il
curves shorter on the hips. 1t may
have a vest, or q square guimpe like a
plastron made of the material used for
trimming, or else it may have the plas-
iron vest, which is pointed below the
waist, and really consists of two revers
sewed together down the middle, ex-
tending from the neck down, and curv-
ing narrower at the waist line. This
may be of plain cloth or of satin, or
else it may be almost covered with par
allel lines of zigsag braid placed cross
wise In points. The back has very fiat
position pleats in the middle seam,
which may either be of the wool goods
or its trimmings, or else it may have q
bias revers set in each seam of the side
forms. Other basques are slightly
double-breasted. requiring only two or
three, buttons for the doubled part, which
discloses the vest set in beneath. The
surplice trimming gives the figure such
roundness that twill continue in favor;
also the wide belt beginning in the
seams under the arms and fastening in
front.
Blouse effects will also be popular,
and these are now used to retain the
pretty shirring, and also to combine it
with vest and with pleatings. For
instance, one of the newest sugges-
tons shown is Rembrandt green cash
mere with Scotch plaid satin trim
mings which has a blouse basque
made in this way. The gay plaid satin
is laid on the basque lining straight
down each side of the front. each side
two and a half inches. broad, or at
least extending to the first dart. The
wool material is cut the shape of the
lining, and its front edges are shirred
crosswise in two clusters-one at the
waist line and the other at the top
of the dart-and are drawn back to the
edge of the plaid satin vest; the full.
ness below the waist line is pressed in
fiat pleats, and the lower edges are
simply piped. Tiny shaded buttons
fasten the vest. The plaid is again in.
troduced below the waist line in pos
tilion pleatings, in the standing bias
collar, and in the cuffs. Few outside
pockets are seen, but occasionally they
are made quite effective as trimmings
by being cut in a long square-cornered
shape, and placed on the edge of the
basque, where they hang like a bag
Small fancy plsids of wool and sill
combined are also used for trimming
plain wool dresses. Those with mtcl
red and gold on olive grounds trim eff
fectively. Gendarme blue wool i!
trimmed with bars OF pale blue; DIV,
and old gold on dark blue grotnd
The newest and warmest-looking trim
ming is silk plush of the same SHADE
as the dress, used for panels, borders
and vests, and for stripes down tn
front of the skirt between box pleats.
The pleated skirts show every varie
ty worn during the summer, but there
are two styles most often repeated
viz, that for tall figures has three side
pleated flounces covering, the front
bread tbs horizontally, while that likee
By shorter ladies has the religious
pleating extending straight from bel
to foot down the front and sides
Few skirts are pleated all around il
kilt fashion, vet very few are seer
without being pleated somewhere
The fashion Of the deep square Ro
man apron, covering the front and
sides, while the backis covered by two
three. or four pleatings, will remain ir
favor:
For pleatings to border skirts, clus
tiers will be greatly used. When con
trasting materials from the trimming
clusters of pleats of the gay trimming
will alternate with others of the plair
material chosen for the dress. Boz
pleats will also be fashionable for Dor.
ders. and these will be wide or narrow
according to fancy. The tabs and re-
vers of satin like the trimming so pop
ular last winter are repeated on new
French eostumes.-Harper's Bazaar.