Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1879-03-28
FOR TIE FAIR SEX.
The Fashions.

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which bonnets are made. Undercloth-
ing and table linen are embroidered in
many colors. Handkerchiefs have
monograms worked in cotton or silk in
as many as seven different hues, and are
often adorned with plaid designs and
borderings striped in all colors. Th re
are scarcely any more suits made in two
shades of the same color. They are
now trimmed with "pekin or Scotch
plaid goods in altogether different colors
from the bodies of the dresses. Tissues
are made OF satin cashemire, for bonnets
and neckties and to trim suits.
Pekin continues in fashion. A new
kind has Just been manufactured for
spring wear which Will Berve for many
combinations. 1T is wooden pekin with
narrow satin stripes. These stripes al.
ternate, one being plaid and in natural
shade, and the other having small
branches in bright colors on plain
grounding, which is in a different color
from the grounding of the plain stripe.
Another novelty in pekin is called tina
n1Ovible," which means immovable. 1t
is pretty gray material. FOulards will
| be more worn than ever, as also surah
"corGb des Hndies," and louisine,"
which is handsomer even than surah.
It is as soft as satin, and always comes
in light shades. In these materials
there are Scotch plaids in large designs
and very pale shades, with which are
combined small punches of many col
ored fine flowers. These flowers are
marked on cashemire. The new color
n plain goods is called "chaudron."
1t is coppery-brass color, or rather
kind of golden brown. Among the
knowns which are to be in fashion this
spring are red, straw-color and biege.
Old-gold color will still be worn, but
not 80 much as formerly; that is, the
color is not exactly the same Gold and
silver are likely to be mixed with differ
ent tissues and combined with embrci-.
deries. Materials shot with gold and
silver are now much used for the dra-
peries and trimmings of ball dresses and
also for the trimmings OF bonnets. Real
moss is now combined with flower trim
mings.
The chief question at present in re-
spect to the make of dresses is the
draping of the paniers. Some nodistes
try TO make their spring suits some-
what in this style without altogether
adopting it; others make bight-ftting
dresses, with very long peplum points
on the side, which lie perfectly fiat and
are trimmed on the ends with tassels.
The princess apron forms the upper
part of the peplum point, and the plait-
ing O. EEcoSSaire is narrow at the top,
becoming broad toward the lower border
of the skirt. The plating is bordered
on either side with the peplum trim
ming. This Greciau style has great adj
vantsges; it is admirably suited to small
figures, to which it gives taller and
more slender appearance. The most
suitable material for these dresses is
silk. A dress made in this style, and
worn at one OF the latest Partisan ,fetes,
has lemon. colored fdille skirt, trimmed
with double ruchings of .failIe and crepe
Rs8e. The waist is cut very low in the
neck, and is square both front and back.
The dress is cut from the waist down in
large peplum point, which ends on
the lower trimming of the skirt. The
lemon colored plush train is taken back
in revers, and bordered with band of
satin embroidered with flowers. The
peplum point is covered with Jet work
and colored flowers. Many plush trains
are worn by ladies who do not dance.
This fashion is particularly popular. as
plain .taiLle toilets can be altogether
changed in appearance by the addition
of the plush train. This train must be
in color contrasting with the remain
der of the toilet; for instance, over o
pink fdiLle or satin dress the train may
be of ruby -colored plush.
To return to the paniers. Those per-
sons who fully adopt this fashion arrange
them in the following ways: The panier
is taken from the side and falls among
the folds of the train, or forms tuni-
que. Some paniers are made very short,
and fastened to the waist like puffed
basque. An evening toilet may be of
light blue crepe de Chine and white en-
broidered 'eauze. The train skirt is
plated. The white satin apron is cov-
cred with small embroidered gauze
founces. Down the sides of the apron
is q trimming consisting OF blue and
pink double faced ribbon. On the lower
border of the apron is blue-plaited
founce. Down the back OF the skirt
are puffed draperies, drawn in to the
middle of the train by means of many
large ribbon loops. Large ribbon loops
fall in cascades over the draperies, start
ing from the right side OF the waist.
The waist is plated all the way down,
back and front, The upper part of the
waist is opened and trimmed with ruf-
fe of embroidered gauze and ribbon
loops. The neck trimming is completed
with crepe lisse and lace collarette,
with blue ribbon through the centre.
Over the arm-sizes is roll of crepe de
Chine. The sleeves, which reach to the
elbow, are of white net, worked with
beads. On the left shoulder, falling
down the back, are long loops of the
double-faced ribbon. The BELTS of pink
ribbon.