, 1879-05-18
CHAMPAGNE WINES.

the kingdom of wines that beefsteak does IN
the kingdom Of desh,- the only difference
being that champagne is an aristocrat and
beefsteak commoner. Champagne being
luxury, is costly and beefsteak, being staple
necessity, is cheap. They meet on the COM
mon ground that every one likes both. Every
one who drinks wine likes champagne.
Even teetotalers like it, though they do not
like to drink it, and are safe against its fasci-:
nations because with them theoretical
principle is superior to sensual taste. Men
may differ about other wines. Some like
the Rhine vintages, while others would as
soon drink vinegar. One connaisseur will
prefer claret and on no account touch sherry,
while another demands port and thinks it
the only 6t thing to drink, while still another
thinks that Burgundy is preferable to the
others We have named. But when it comes
to champagne there is no question. People
may differ as to brands of it; but all cham
pagne is good, and it adapts itself to the
requirements Of every palate, no matter how
exactirg ;tmay be: -: =
An English writer, Mr.. HENRY V1zErz11z,
has rsyently printeda book upon champagne
which gives some interesting information as
to its manufacture. The foundation is the
must. In its passage through the watts the
scum and the sediment are carefully re-
moved, and the wine is then poured into
casks and placed in cool cellar during part
Of the winter, during which timo o slow fer
mentation goes on. When the sprng ar-
is ready for mixing with the products Of
othar vineyards which are to establish it's
flavor. On this point Mr.. 'VHErE11Y
SAYS B: 'sThe aim is to combine and develop
the special qualities Of the respective cras,
body aud vinosity being secured by the red
vintages Of Bouzy and Verzenay, softness and
roundness by those of Az and Lily, and
ightness, deicacy, aud efferyescence by the
white growths Of Avize and Cramant. The
proportions are never absolute, but vary
according to the manufacturers style Of
wine and the taste of the countries which
form his principal markets. When the;
blending is thoroughly effected, the wine is
bottled and placed in cellars whose tempera-
ture is skillfully managed: Then the second
fermentation commences The carbonic-
acid gas is developed and sediment is de-
posted. The bottles are then placed in
| slanting racks and shaken daily by peculiar
manipulation, which in time forms the sedi-
ment into q sort OF muddy ball that lodges
in the mock Of the bottle The workman
then uncorks the .bottls' and elects the ball.
| A little liuueur. is added, the bottle is re-
corked By machine, and then, after another
shaking to mix the wine and ,iqueur, and a
short period OF rest, it is ready for the mar
ket,-its future excellence depending largely
upon the time it has rested and the date Of
the vintage. No wine has SO much care ex-
pended upon its manufacture. There is no
| wine IN which manufacturers take so much
pride. # the purchaser buys lntclligently
| there is no wina SO good or so healthy. a.
It is cheerful to learn from Mr. V1zETELnYs
book that much of the talk about aaultera-
tions of champagne is mere talk, aud that it
| il possible to get pure champagne just as
easily as pure beer, by buying from reputa-
! BILE dealers. OF course, there is champagne
| and champagne, and if a man buys for the
sake Of economy and without reference, he,
1
need not be surprised if le obtains: cham
pagne that is made, from the apples that
grow on the trees of New Jersey and is
| nothing but the plebeian cider in state Of
| unnatural exhilaration. But, even then, he
enjoys immunity from the harmful effects
that arise from other kinds of cheap liquors,
for sparkling cider is not half so
injurious as the sparkling water which
teetotalers are - so fond Of apostro-
:phizing. OF course, however, the teetotaler
will always: condemn champagne: but the
lover of the sparkling vintage offsets it by
plying the teetotaler because be cannot en-
joy: it, just as fully as he condemns the
coarse, brutal appetites Of wretches who
gulp down the fiery, poisoned liquors OF the
dram-shop. The only regret after reading
Mr.. .V1zErE1EYs book is the consciousness
that champagne cannot be any cheaper. but
must grow more costly, because the districts
in which 1t is made constantly diminish, It
is one Of the misfortunes of the present
world; which will probably be rectihed IN
| ..... a:,k,.,+ JT+o1;o That all The really GOOD