The Newtown bee., 1879-09-17
FOR THE FAIR SEX.
Autumn Millinery.

The first importations of autumn mil
linery, says Hdrper's Basar, consist
mainly of large bonnets, but, as was the
case last season, two extremes are repre-
scented, and there are also small close
cottage shapes. The large bonnets are
pokes with close sides, and a large brim
projecting above the forehead. The
Directoire bonnets with square crown
and tiaring brim are repeated, and there
are many rolled bl'ims that have the
Rabagas effect once SO popular; these
frame the face, and are similar to the
halo brims that have been found so gen.
orally becoming. The small bonnets
have scarcely any brim, and seem to
consist of a square crown that takes in
the back of the head, and covers only
about half the top. These shapes have
been worn during the summer at New
port and Saratoga, and have looked more
like caps than dress bonnets, as they
are without face trimmings, plumes or
fowers-being simply trimmed with
ribbon loops and bows. Other shapes
serve either as a bonnet or round hat.
The favorite Carmen bonnet is shown
with greater breadth in the back. The
rolled brim English turban promises to
remain in favor, and there are pretty
round hats with a dropping square front,
while both sides and the back are turned
up. The regular Scotch cap is shown
for very young faces, and there are
jaunty Derby hats precisely like those
worn by. gentlemen. Very large. Ty,,
rOlean hats are seen with high-pointed
crowns, but these are the only excep-
tions to the rule of broad crowns. One
fanciful shape, a compromise between a
bonnet and a round hat, has three curves
in the brim on the right side, while the
left is rolled up smoothly; this shape
and the very large Gainsboroughs are
the most picturesque styles exhibited.
All these quaint shapes are represented
in the sOftest silk plush, in fur beavers
with pile an inch long, and in smooth
French felt. Sometimes two fabrics
enter into one bonnet, as, for instance,
the crown will be smooth felt, while the
brim is silk plush OF the rough-faced fur
smooth plush, and the brim of rough
plush showing very deep pile. A novelty
this season is feather felt, with loose
shreds of feathers forming the pile of
fine felt; in white and pale gray these
will be used for dress bonnets.
The poke, the Carmen, the Directoire.
turbans, Derbys and Gains borough hats
are shown in these fabrics. Sometimes
the edge of bonnets is finished with a
wire covered with satin of the same
shade. Many of the round hats have
their broad rolled brims widely bound
with silk or satin of the color of the
felt, Ornamented by several rows of
stitching. Some of the turbans have in
denied crowns of plain, felt with rough
plush brims rolled closely, while others
reverse this arrangement, and have
smooth brims on rough crowns
New tints of cloth shades are shown
in the bonnets for winter. Rembrandt
green is very largely represented, and is
dark like myrtle green, but with more
blue in it. The new red is amaranth,
with purple shading that will make it
popular with blondes, while for bru-
nettes is UieatG rouge, like the dull scarlet
known as Pompeiian red. Japonais is a
new green-blue, and there are beautifully
fine felt and plush bonnets in the gem
darme blue shade that was so difficult
to obtain last year; another artistic blue
is called Douanier, and all the ducks
breast~shades that are both green and
blue are again represented. Another
shade that seems copied from the plum
age Of birds is ca1aGqate, a golden brown.
HE bronze browns with their olive
green hues will also be worn again.
Prune and plum colors are shown in
great variety, shading toward red the
new BurgOyne is a beautiful plum brown
color. In light shades there are MANY
biege tints with cream, ivory white, and
a great deal of old gold in very soft
tinbs Caet blue and rose pink are well
used in combinations with thenew dark
colors.
Fancy feathers will be the leading
feature of the trimmings of winter bon
nets, Merchants call these fancy
feathers because of the fanciftll shapes
in which they are mounted, but the
feathers themselves are of natural colors
NOT dyed-and are plucked from rare
bine many rich cOlors, and are mounted
in fiat pieces that conform to the shape
of the bonnet. Occasionally the whole
birC is placed in a natural poise on the
front or side of the hat, but far oftener
one bird is made to do service for two
hats by being split in halves from bill to
tail, and having a spirited little top
knot or some tail feathers added. The
beautiful Brazilian humming-birds that
glisten like jewels are more used than
the larger birds. Sometimes an orna-
ment consists of five or six of these tiny
birds clustered together as if in a nest,
their heads and long bills crowded as if
pushing each other from the nest, an
with their beautiful plumage. There are
coronets with two heads meeting in the
center, number of tiny wings stuck
next in fan shape, and tail feathers at
each end; these are to be set between the
crown and brim, and will serve to trim
the bonnet. TIE object seems to be to
combine as many brilliant colors as can
be massed together in one of these
clusters. Sometimes an Alsacian bow
is formed of birds, or else of their wings,
and there are feathered butterflies and
foliage similar to those used last year.
Golden phesants' feathers, especially the
small "eyes " of the feather, and guineas
hen feathers on borders, are shown for
turbans. Bits of tinsel, of jet, and many
let beads are added to make feather orna
ments. The pompons are In great
variety; one of the prettiest is the rose
pompon, with feather petals tipped with
tinsel; among these are black pompons
and bronze with gold edges, also anna
ranth, plum, white and blue. Natural
gray long ostrich plumes are imported,
and all the new shades are shown in the
tips, demi-long and Mercutio plumes,
some of which are tipped with let, or
else they are waved and curled like will
low plumes. Feather fringes and bor-
ders are made of the tiniest tips closely
curled. Odd little tufts ofwhite feathers
Ike snow-flakes are dotted about in
dark feather borders. Solitary birds are
mounted to show their feet, and some
times the feet are stuck in pompons or
in the fiat ornaments; on other pompons
a dragon-fly is poised while still others
have either black o: wfIfke hcrons'
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