The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1879-05-19

building up the figure, but insist upot
the cultivation OF plumpness. Elbow
sleeves and sqnare.shaped corsage are Il
be unlveISal. 1nnumerable pretty piece
oilingerie are invented In the way Of In
side ichus, chemisettes and kerchiefs oil
Swiss, linen, lawn, spriggled lace, silk,
muslin, India null, all fluffy with plait.
ings Of Breton lace, ruchings OF frayed
silk, sllirred, plated and embroidered;
lace Insertions and lace pulings, and mar.
row ribbons in rosettes, These delicate
conceits are exquisitely becoming, and are
rendered still more so by the new and
beautiful throat.bows OF ribbon. Among
tho prettiest Of these are the Persian rib.
bons Of sapphire blue, tea.rose pink,
pomegranite and silvery green, all gilt.
terlng with threads OF silver wrought In
the designs. These are decorated with
Inexpensive pins-for instance, o dove
on the wing, OF silver, set with glitteting
little Rhine pebbles, holding In It's bill q
spray Of olive branches set with garnets,
emeralds and sapphires, Another style
shows an open music box; the lines Of
music are accurately defined, and a brill.
ant little enameled bird Is perched upon
them. Besides the Persian ribbon aliud.
cd to, there Is another even more beauti-
ill, called nacre dc perle, showing the
closest Imitation Of mother.of.pearl in the
shimmering iridescent tinting and shad-
ing, a pin decorating q cluster OF these
throat bows represents one OF the golden
spathes OF palm flowers, the ribbon repro
dncing the many colored brilliances ofthe|
tropical skies. Another ancient symbol in
gold and green enamel Is the mistletoe
Dough oil the Druids. Some new and cost
" lace pins, also used for the ribbon
bows, Initiate flowers 10 carry out
the artistic harmony OF the Louis XVI,
dresses and fabrics. The violent glintipg
oil the amethyst In two shades forms AL
pansy there are turquoise iorget.me-nots,
IVY leaves aud five leaves OF translucent
aqua marine; and q blood.red topaz rose
from q green gold curving stem.
Regularly each season Is the polonaise
blackballed, and set aside for q new favor.
lie, and Us regularly IL this inestimable
garment restored Tn favor. Recent French
as well as American models show the pol
onaise proper with painters and a vest at
tached. The vest is very deep, and the
polonaise lines edge the vest direct from
the neck to Its lower edge, and there curry
away over the hips in curtain drapery
fashion for the display OF an elaborately
tablier. There are reyers and
drapery at the back, falling over a full or
uemi-train, according to the style OF COS
tune. One of these models Of light drab
India cashmere has a vest, cuffs, pocket
aud other revers o fjardiniere foulard silk;
the undershirt is edged with a sue.
OF narrow knife-plaitings. The
.polonaise for summer DAYS "a made
black Chantilly, black Spanish and
otner black laces, yerymuch trimmed with
velvet or satin ribbon. These are worn
black silk or satin, or for evening use
some bright color, from which pur-
pie and violets are excluded, excepting
where mourning is worn. Satin, although
rather a heavy fabric for summer, is seen
combined with silk, foulard silk and gre
nadines. The front breadth is finely
and the polonaise or overskirt
drapery curves gracefully back in plated
paniers.. Some OF the silk and satin
models for street wear are made In three
pieces-basque, overskirt and skirt, which
Is cut Shorthand round, the front is shirred
laid in straight or diagonal folds, with
tull drapery folds behind. The skirt ia
edged with two triple box.plaited rufles.
A black brocade hunting is made in this
ashton. The jacket-basQue has a black
Orocaded silk vest, with poCket-reyers, and
to correspond.
While the variety in bonnets Is infinite,
he fancy for large bonnets seems to in
crease. The Clarissa Harlowe is one Of
he iavorites, rivalled by the Carmen,
which may be worn as either hat or bon
net. Still later comes the DireCtoire, which
$ very distingue and elegant; tho broad
lrlm flares at the front, but is rather
at the sides. The Gabrilot has an
exceedingly picturesque appearances; it
las the brim turned sharply up in front
Is close'ftting at the sides. The strings
ross the crown are brought down the
sides and tied in q knot under the chin. A
charming bonnet OF this shape made of
ecru chip is faced with pale-blue shirred
'9tin, and a spray Of mingled delicate
blush roses and forget.me-nots drifts grace
qlIy across the front Of the crown. Broad
blue satin strings tic beneath the
hin. Among other new fashions
IRE the jet-embroidered bonnets,
wrought or net, tulle and satin. Other
styles of netted Jet are made over satin.
yet ball fringe cut in. glittering facets
edges the brim. Others have an edging Of
narrow jet passementerie, with cut let
beads, woven into a fine fringe, dropping
over the edge Of the brim; clusters ofjac.
luemtnot roses or superb carnations lend
: brilliant effect to the black lace and lets,
other trimming consists OF black ostrich
held by a horse shoe or crescent
Rhine pebbles, and the strings are black
lace. The new Tuscan bonnets mostly
have trimmings Of hrocaded satin and bou.
luets Of beautiful field flowers, in which
laitodils, marguerites and scarlet peoples,
with meadow grass and conspicuous white
elder blossoms are much worn upon black
bonnets.
TINT TnArpnv a. W1nr.,., |