The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-09-06

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dard material, is always worn, but will
probably be more used this year than fol
several seasons past, because of the return
to plain woolen stuffs. Not so with silks
however. For trimming street dresses
satin-striped silk will be very largely
used, the color in both stripes being the
same. The stripes are usually third Of
an inch in width, but both narrower and
wider will be worn. Satin and moire
stripes are not among the new importa-
tions, but are not yet PASSED out of date
Very handsome ones are in light shades
for evening wear.
As the season advances, velvets will be
more and more worn, not only plain, but
brocaded. Plain black velvets will, as
always be popular, but it is more fashion
able when brocaded. In some of these
fancy velvets irregular stripes are formed
by fine satiny lines; in Others narrow
stripe of velvet alternates with one of
satin of the same shade, ON which is bro
caded small floral pattern in bright col
ors This is very pretty design and is
imported with the groundwork in all of
the dark shades of the season. Brocaded
velvets of solid color are to be as popu-
lar this year as last. In one line the
ground is satin and the floral design upon
it velvet, shaded by being left in places
uncut. A very stylish fancy velvet is of
various shades of brown and tan, softly
blending with one another, with the sur
face divided into small irregular pat
tern by overshot threads of yellow or piel
silk. 1t has a curiously notified effect.
The elegant heavy brocades Of last year
will not, as prophesied, 60 out at present.
In many of them the pattern is ar
ranged in stripes to accord with the pres
ent popular fancy.
An attempt has been made to reintro-
duce the old-fashioned changeable silks,
now known as shot silks. Probably they
will at first meet with some opposition,
as the style is a rather conspicuous one !;
but as every revived fashion is improved
upon before it's second adoption, this
may be 50 modified as to please critical
taste. Black silk has always been con-
sidered the one material unaffected by
the caprices of fashion, but even it must
at last succumb and share its laurels
with Sicilienne. This material has here
tofore been exclusively used for cloaks
and circulars, and was woven with a
worsted filling. 1t is now manufactured
entirely of silk, expressly for dresses, and
appears under the name of Bengaline
sole. 1t is rich and elegant, hanging in
soft lustrous folds, and drapes much
better than gros-grain silk. A word in
its favor is that Paris dressmakers use it
extensively, and predict for it great
popularity. 1t combines well with all
the black trimming materials. Its lustre
is 50 soft that it seems to need the addi-
tion of something glossy, like satin, as a
garniture. The silk and worsted Sici-
ienne is still used for wraps, but is con-
sidered unsuitable for dresses.
An appropriate early fall material is
French bunting in subdued colors. 1t
must not be confounded with the coarse,
rough material first introduced as buit-
ing for it is finer and prettier. Travel
ing and street dresses made of this
material will be found most useful, and
may be worn until late in the season.
Striped satin is the prettiest garniture
for such dresses.
HINTS ON MAKING DRESSES.
1t is said in Paris that dresses for
almost all occasions will be made short,
even calling costumes. This is, indeed,
great revolution and emancip patton but
it is little doubtful if American ladies
will very willingly lay aside the graceful
train. Ball dresses are still made very
long, but many dancer would appre-
ciate the absence of a train. A very
elegant imported visiting costume is
made with short, scant skirt of bro
caded velvet in brown shades. The
overdress is of brown satin, and is very
ample being draped quite high on the
hips, which makes the front full and
short. The basque is of satin, and has
pointed front and long backs, divided and
finished with long bows. Cuffs and col
larette are made of the brocaded velvet.
An outside garment accompanies this cos
tune. 1t is of the satin, in long Con-
tinental coat form. The vest, cuffs, col
lar and large pockets, which are placed
on the hips are all of the brocade. This
coat is heavily wadded and lined to rem
der it comfortable in cold weather.
1t is probable that for walking cos
tunes the sacque will be of the same
material as the dress, while for dressy
occasions it will be necessary to have
handsome black wrap.
There is just now fancy for short un-
derskirts, made rather scant and entirely
without trimming The most serviceable |
and generally useful are those of plain
black velvet, as polonaise of any kind
may be worn over that material, but the
newest ones are of the popular satin or
velvet Pekin. A very pretty walking
dress for a young lady has an underskirt,
like those just described, of garnet Pekin,
over which is worn Marquise polonaise
Of garnet Indian cashmere, which has
cuffs, collar and belt Of Pekin. The ele-
CANT velvet brocades will probably be
made up into these short untrimmed
skirts. They really consume as much or
more material than the founced skirts of
last year, for then ladies secured the
effect of velvet skirt by putting ruffie
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