Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-11-01

ever, and made over into plain demi-trained
and draped as simply as possible white and
black gauZe. The tablier having the gauze
drawn across and gathered into the side
ed it and the satin into shirrings partly con-
cealed by a voluminouS cluster OF satin ribbon
loops and ends, which were gold color upon the
white and black upon the black, but the color of
which can be arranged to suit tastes. Skirts
were demitrains and destitute Of founces, but
around the bottom were very thick white soft
rouches of white and black lace
Black upon one and white upon the other
mingled with box-plaitlng OF the gaue. Trails
OF large roses would probably give the finishing
touch to these dresses when they were worn,
but without iounceS overSkirts, or drapery, eX-
cept that obtained from the yelling of the satin,
they managed to be very distinguished.
JACKETS AND CLoAKs
deserve a special paragraph, for they have
taken upon themselves new forms and new
duties The jacket of the season is small and
close-fitting, perfectly plain no vest, sometimes
| In fact often double-6reasted with Side Iappels
upon the short skirt OF the back, which do not
extend below its edge, English collar, square,
| except the buttons which are often striking,
| always handsome. They are plain and made In
cloth, velvet and velveteen, in very dark wine
| and cloth colors rather than in black, though
black may be and is sometimes used. 1t Is not
necessary at all that this style Of jacket should
| be the same color as the dress. On the con-
| trary it must be different to be a la mode. For
instance, viii see dark brown with ecru, wine
| color, fawn or grey dress, and invisible green
| Win plum color ana gOld PLAID
The parasOl, however, not unfrequently
| matches the jacket-and quite number or ruby
and wine-cOlOred velvet jackets have been
seen at the autumn races at Jerome Park, with
| velvet parasOls to match, embroidered in leaf
| and coral patterns, with ecru or maStic, the
| shade OF the dress, the trimmed skirt OF which
| was alone visible. To conclude the description
| Of these toilettes it may be remarked that they
| were accompanied by Pamela bonnets Of coarse
straw, trimmed and lined with velvet the shade
| of the jacket, and mounted with a high group OF
| ecru or maStic ostrich feathers. The coat
| is more dreSSy garment 1t is a fanci-
full copy Of a gentleman'S dress coat, some.
times fastened down the front, sometimes
cut away, but usually leaving very long
narrow tails, between which may be a basque
composed of q series Of fiat side plaitingS or q
long pun OF the silk or satin OF which tile dress
Is composed, and which these long panels or
straight lappels hold In place.
The coat, like the jacket before mentioned Is
independent OF the Dress at least 1t is Of different
fabric and only corresponds or harm0niZeS with
1t in color never matches; 1t may indeed Offcr
the most striking contrast. All that Is neceS-
sary is that this color shall reappear in some
| other part OF the dress or headdreSS- For ex-
ample, a ruby velvet coat may be worn with
| white satin; dark wine color with pale amber,
| brown with delicate pink, rich plum with
| olive, maroon with pale lavender, &C. A coat,
| moreover, Is never made plain, even OF velvet; Q
Jacket may be, but not . coat. The latter, II OF
velvet or any plain rich fabric, Is enriched with
embroidery Of gold, fat or rough, after the style