The New York herald., 1879-07-14
FREAKS OF FASHION.
Materials, Styles and COlors Appropriate
10 The Summer Months.
4 MEDLEY OF FINERY.
Costumes that Are Won by the Sea-
shore and on the Road.

scarcely De expected tnat go
ward tend in the direction of that simplicity
which belonged 20 the time wheE the spinning wheel
turned the cloth the linen and the hand loom
toiled aboriousy at the costler fabrics the use OF
which were confined wholly to the rich and great.
In days linen made for lifetime. and cloth
30 be used by children IS children. Fashion changed
but slowly. and not at all among those who
earned their daily bread by honest labor.
The world very different from what it
is at the present time. Now wealth IS
much more widely distributed. and machinery
has made fabrics cheap that it only pays to mend
them from the cost of making, not from the money
spent upon the material itself. Materials are very
reasonable in price. 1t is well worth while nova
days for young women to bestow upon their own
dress of that time, patience and consideration
which they have been toned to devote to fancy
work. Paper patterns obtainabe with as
much ease as u spool of thread They designed
and cut with accuracy. and there IS no obstacle to
the cultivation OF charming taste and even origin
ality in their dress by young women though
they may not have u superabundance OF
pocket money. Let them take well cut design
ns a basis OF operations. They may diverge from
it any way that suits their fancy after they have
learned to do so with safety, and by saving them
selves the expense in making be able to indulge III
dresses well more of the accessories of
dress. Light and diversified coors are more FASH
ionable now than time past. and freshness,
frequent renewal is essential to their attractive ap-
pearance. Let the girls, therefore, learn to be their
own dressmakers il they would dress beautifully
and fashionably.
MODELS AUGUST
very pretty and seasonabio design is the
"Athalia overskirt. 1t is ingeniously arranged to
give effect of side paners and graduated pus at
the back. which separated by bands and ter
skirt. 1t is an extremely graceful model for thin
goods. Tho .valentine" blouse waist is the newest
and prettest OF the pleatel waist styles. Yoked
waists had Il short life. as they not found suit.
able for elegant stylish dresses. The ''Valcntine
is particularly lovely in material that be
trimmed with lace embroidery. The embroidery
should be bought by the piece. nice qualities
now be purchased at 81 50 to 81 for twelve yards.
which renders the trimming OF a dress quite mex
pensve.
The Camilla polonaise is a revival of the ''Mar-
guerite" styles with the side panier effect and q
simulated vest, formed OF self-colo-ed material
This design is especially pretty in the striped and
figured foulards, which have been important
feature in this seasons dress materials. Nothing
could be cooler for summer wear than eoonaise of
this description made Of American foulard-say
with pretty blue figure light tinted ground,
with facing OF plain turquoise blue silk. edged
with Breton lace. A simple founced skirt. walking
length of either plain blue the figured silk
would complete charming garden party costume.
''PINAFoEE" COSTUMES.
The "Pinafore' is square tunc back and front.
tied together upon the shoulders with ribbon the
sides united in the same manner: There is no full
ness. and they are worn over perfectly plain high
dresses of muslin. silk. cambric. gingham. linen
lawn barege any other light tissue that may he
fancied pretty and striking "Pinafore" costume is
composed OF alternate lace and muslin tied with gay
colored ribbons over u dress of black grenadine The
s'PinafOre' ma
teral from the slip or dress over which it is
linen. trimmed with linen. lace embroidery and
ribbons OF the same shade. Checked ginghams are
also used trimmed with white embroidery and satin
ribbon of the prevailing tints. laced with contrast
Vests to with without jackets over an or
binary bodice give full dress appearance small
cost. They made OF white linen. trimmed with
lace and embroidery of black velvet, India mus
lin. tred on PLAIN foundation and caught down
with pearls at intervals; of Pompadour muslin and
OF SOFT washing silks. They reach to the shoulders,
iasten at the back at the waist and termi
liz square ends. They bordered all
round with lace. having cascade sometimes down
the centre of the front and standing run at the
throat They the front of the dress entirely.
sometimes they are made i'll one piece, of Duchesse
Or Brussels lace.
FASHIONABLE FANcIr.
special racing fashion is to tr,pge the paraso.
with flowers like those the bonnet ana
carry 4 bunch of the same, only natural in the
haIid. All exceedingly pretty illustration of this
charming idea was seen at Jerome Park "feii
day." when the tcrraced lawn was crowded viii
fashionable spectators. The wife of a very rich
dress of soft thick black silk,
striped with white satin and trimmed with
with white Breton lace Her bonnet made
OF black lace. the crown cncircied by thick
iringed still more thickly. while in her hand she
carried huge bouquet OF yellow buttercups. The
effect striking and peculiar. Fancies OF this de-
scription are not cheaply executed economically
followed 1he cost is great to those who have but
little, and the results quickly dissipated so
there is not much show it still it is a beauty
and JOY as long as IL lasts
II is easy that the most exquisite dressing
which is tbs result of the highest civilization. must
always ind its expression IN deiicacy and variety
of tint coloring. Solid dark colors arc use
they % are not capable w apy PyOers,se poerv 0of oft
expression, and they do not employ the art
and the skill In this nanipulation and nreservation
that constantly grow out OF the refinement Of human
needs Black, for instance, is the uniform OF gem
teel poverty everywhere. and. although it can be
enriched into grace and elegance, still carries
about with IL that dominant sense of utility aud
uniformity which have been chief for the
appropriation Of II for men and busy working
women. Moreover, hard usage and hard work tell
upon softness and fairness-thosc haractorstics
which constitute the chief beauty of wonen-and
change them into thin. and sallow objects,
whose only safety, so far personal experience
goes. lies in the unobtrusiyeness of plain dress.
Women from whose lips, eyes and hair. checks and
brow the color and sunlight have not faded can
afford to array themselves like flowers. in delicate
shades Of pink, white and blue and provoke no crit
icism.
or the possibilities of color the fashionable world
has hardly as yet begun To dream. The majority OF
women have no opportunity to indulge their tastes
III this particular. Their lives are narrowed by
want of time and place and the Limitation of cir
sumstances. The woman who has to look after
household affairs, 90 10 the grocery or mtrkct. be
ready TO attend To dozen different affairs a dozen
different places without change OF dress must choose
one that iuihs the essential conditions OF and
auaptaDility-that is to say. it must be short and
dark and take but little time to arrange That il
necessity Of not one day but OF every day in their
lives. and fashion, therefore. cannot alter It,
NEWEST HAYS AND BOSNEIs.
The large hats which have been such feature OF
the summer styles will hardly be carried over into
the fali. except for excursion purposes. Tho diff
culty about tho large hats OF the presol season has
been thor weight. The light chips and florida
braids OF last year have been superseded by coarse
heavy English straw. which is faced with velvet and
frequently trimmed with velvet also ia addition to
llnu!cs aud metal clasp. The weight OF all this
upuI the head u hot summers day is injurious
Wen a. very uncomfortable
The recent iportcd styles are compara.
tve.y sEa aud quite IA the gypsy cottage
iorH With small upward briin. One feature of the
new styles la bunncts may bo considered at least