The Portland daily press., 1879-04-23
[Harper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
FRENCH STYLES.

FRENCH STYLES.
The choicest novelties for spring and sum-
mer toilettes are brought over by the modiste
who remains latest in Paris. These belong al
most entirely to the styles of Louis XIV. and
Louis XVI, though the vests, the jabots, and
the puffed sleeves are copied from the fashions
of EARLIER reigns The special feature of the
latest importations is the use of gay figured
colored goods of very light weight, such as
foulards. cotton satteeD, and this semi.trans-
parent wool fabric formerly called mousseline
de laine. This fine wool is more sheer and
light than that known as French bunting, and
instead of being confined to single colors, 1t is
now shown with white, cream, pea.l or Sevres
blue grounds strewn with small palm leaves or
with flowers. These figured delaines are used
for short suits and for house dresses, while the
plain colors, especially the cream tints, appear
in evening dresses combined with satin, moire,
and brocaded silks. Another novelty is In
dienne Grape, lustrous gauze thinner than
tissue.paper, and especially pretty in cream
white made mp over silk, and tiimmed with
the lightest quality Of Breton lace. In cotton
dresses the same pretty Pompadour figures are
preserved, even In the plain chintz calicoes.
and the design of making is as elaborate as for
the fouIards and delaines.
The Pom padoar styles are chosen for the gay
youthful dresses that will be worn at summer
resorts. These have overdresses very bunchily
draped, q great deal of shirred tIi mining and
lace, with fchus, jabots and puffed sleeves.
When the dress is short costume, the skirt is
decidedly short, showing the foot as high as
the inslep, and escaping the ground entirely.
When demi-train is used for the house. the
front and first side breadths are as short as
those of street suits. In some dresses the top
of the sleeve is puffed; second puff covers the
elbow, and thence ruffie of plsatings and
much lace falls on the wrist. In other dresses
satin Pnlts j. s ba shs n others still
there is single puff reaching from the elbow
to the wrist. One fancy is to button the sleeve
up the inside seam, while other sleeves are 60
tight that they are buttoned from the elbow
down on the outside. Very full ruffles of lace
edgiDg the simplest sleeve now worn make it
stylish. In fact, the abundant use of inexpen-
sive lace is feature of day dresses, while the
richest lace founces are again used in their
legitimate way for trimming full-dress toilettes
The front and sides of handsome trained
dresses are in many instances covered with
founces of Valencennes, duchess or point
lace.
The handsomest all black grenadines have
satiI-brocadsd leaves, diamonds, large spots or
lozenge shaped figures ard are made up over
colored silk throughout, such as mandarin yel-
pink The trimmings are col0red beaded pas
sementeries, or else jet, with lace pleatiDgs,
fringe and sometimes fans and bows of the col
ored silk used for the foundation. Thes rich
dres es are made for the house and carriage, as
they have long full trains with panier scarfs,
Simpler grenadines with short skirts, or ct
most demi-trains, have panier polOnaises cut
quite long, and the edges punched up in drap-
cry on the sides and back. These are trimmed
with religieuse pleating, or with festooned
Of ho MIA i'm In,
square meshes withoue figures. The festoone1
founces are edged with lace pleating, and jet
passementeries or fringes are added to make
them more dressy.
NEW HOSIERY.
At the furnishing houses new hosiery for the
spring and summer is made of the fine Sea
Island cotton in ecru and cream tints, embroi-
dered on the insteps or else up each side, in
quantity combined colors, such as pale blue
with olive green, red with yellow, aud pink
with deep red one of the fancies Of the season
is polka dots of embroidery in color all over the
instep of the Baloriggan stocking. Black
thread stockings are also shown, and it is said,
will be worn all summer; they are embroidered
with pale blue, lemon color, pink or red. The
ecru Balbriggans are deepened in color until
they are almost as dark 81. old gold, and have
black veins wrought up each side.
The small bustles used all along for trained
and demi-traned skirts are now commended by
fash ionable modistes for supporting the panier
draperies of short suits. These bustles, howev-
er, are offered with the caution that they must
be very small, as the bouffant effect is more
stylish when it is produced by the vOuminous
| bunched up draperies of the over.dress. The
| imported bust)es are of muslin with some
| curved whalebones, run in castings, and the Sc
| are confined to the middle of the back, begin
| ming Just below the waist line.
NEW FLoUNcEs.
There are many pretty designs for founces
4 49, .Iz NJ
| short dresses these are merely border flouIces,
not very deep, and alike all around the skirt,
| unless the arrangement of the over-skirt re-
| Quires this fiounce to be deepened on the front
| breadths. For this border founce French mod
| istes use full shell hounce made up of the
wool and silk goods used in the costume; first q
knife -pleating finger deep made of the silk Is
| around the bottom of the skirt; the heading fol
this is a narrow box-pleating Of the wool, each
edge of which is finished with silk knife-pleat
ing; between the box-pleating the edges of The
knife-pleating are pulled together and taeked
to form shell.
i The shirred flounce is simple and pretty. 1
is made Of straight silk ten inches deep, hemmet
by machine on both edges. 1t Is then laid il
side pleats, each an inch wide, three in q clus
ter, and space finger long is left between
the clusters. The pleats are pressed smoo,bl!
| at the bottom the length of Q finger, whi
above this each pleat is gathered lengthwise-
one row of gathers to- each pleat-snd drawn
|
This makes frilled pleats at the top and plail
pleats below. Sew to the skirt an inch from
the upper edge of the hounce, aud also below
the frllied part of the pleats
A stylish fan hounce easily made is also o
straight silk ten or twelve inches WIDE In th
| flounce the pleats-either three or five In
cluster-are folded or Tapped upon each other
and are stitched across near the top, and agail
at half their depth; this makes the upper par
quite fiat, while all below this is allowed t.
spread outward like fan.
The festooned fiounce is most often seen OF
the front and sides of trained skirts that ar
plain behind, or at most have q plain side
, pleated founce. 1t forms I've curves usually
though sometimes only three are seen. 1t
cut bias, aud edged top and bottom with knife
pieated silk, or lace, or else plain.msshed gren
| adine. 1t is then caught up in four horizonss
: folds that draw the lower edge up almost Il
3 the top, TINS forming curves on the lower edge
A bunch of ribbon loops, rosette, or small
cascade Uf lace is set in between each curve
This graceful trimming is pretty for lawn,
batistes, white muslins, and grenadines, and
se. n on some of the most fanciful Pompadou
foulards.
SurpIice pleatings of fine fol is are laid o
fronts of dress waists. They begin at the sid
of the neck, and are caught low on the bosom
The pretty old time fashion of drapipg whit
tuIle in V.sbsped folds 10 the front Of dar
> dresses is revived. Sometimes the neck is CT
out In heart-shape, and q revers Is set eac
side. 10 other dresses Worth extends revel
from the bust of each side to go upward, crol
: Just below the throat, aud button at the top.
most Pompadour squares the lower edge
pointed upward instead of being cut straigi
Q across.
The ceremony of baptism by immersion wi
celebrated 10 Texas the other day, and whe
, | 1txcI 80. ~