The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-11-15

cuffs, etc. Embroidery is very much
worn, and can never grow common, as it
is always expensive. Very elegant en-
broidery is made on a light foundation
which is cut away, and the work may be
transferred.upon the costume, looking as if
embroidered. there. Buttons now form
an important feature of lady's dress.
handsome smoked-pearl buttons are beau
tifully carved in bas-reliefs and intaglios
Jet buttons are cut in the popular "bug'
or oblong shape. -.a ~
MILLINERY. ..i .., ..-. .,.
Shapes of every description, from close
eapotes to large, picturesque Devonshires,
are in the market, so that every one can
be suited. There is a great fancy for
bonnets which combine two materials
one for the brim and another for the
crown. The materials are not only con-
tiasting, but the colors also. A hand
some imported bonnet has crown of
crackle velvet tawny tiger yellow.
The brim is of plain black velvet, and is
faced with shirring of dark red satin.
A twist of crackle velvet passes around
the crown. which is surmounted by a
breast of cashmere-colored feathers
The strings are of biased twilled silk the
color of the crackle velvet, and are six
inches wide. Strings form quite an inn
portant part of bonnets this winter, and
are quite wide. Serge or twilled silk and
satin are fayorite materials for strings
whether used on any other part of the
bonnet or not. Strings are often trimmed
across the bottom with plating of point
d'esprit lace. All the new ribbons are
used for strings. A half square of net
ting thickly beaded, with a fine chenille
fringe, is draped across the back of some
bonnets and forms strings, to knot loosely
under the chin.
The almost entire absence of face-trim-
ming on the winter bonnets is notice
able feature. A plain velvet band crosses
the 'front.' and the brim is faced with vel
vet or shirred satin, but other trimming
is usually avoided. The edge of the brim
is sometimes bound with bead galloon
in Jet or in cashmere colors. On some
bounets a fringe of beads is on the edge
of the brim, and falls towards the face.
Beads are very largely used as bonnet
trimmings, in black and colors. They
are made in fancy patterns for covering
bonnet crowns and in galloons to match,
for binding the brim. A dull lustreless
satin jet has just made its appearance
for mourning. Where the crown of
bonnet is of plain satin, it is considered
incomplete without a covering of beads.
Bonnet crowns composed entirely Of
breast feathers laid flat, are among the
novelties. The feathers usually employed
for this purpose are those which are on
the metallic-green and blue shades, or of
the cashmere colors. Very wide, plain
gilt braid is used as facing for bonnets,
and gilt cord as finish to the brim. A
bonnet of gray felt has a button-hole
stitched edge worked with large gilt
cord.
Large hats Of soft, furry silk beaver in
the drab shade, called dauphin gray, are
pretty for young faces. The nap is near
! lv half ali inch long, soft and fluffy. The
brim is wide and caught up in odd places
or turned back from the face Long os-
trich plumes, in brown or in natural
shades, make the prettiest trimming for
these hats with the addition of little
satin ribbon, in dauphin-gray shades.
These beaver hats are also worn in black,
trimmed lavishly with black ostrich
pumes. The brim should never be faced
or bound, lest the soft effect be destroyed.
Felt is much used for common wear, and
is shown in all the new shapes A new
fancy is to trim felt hats with fur. The
fur has very bccoming effect when not
too lorg.
Feathers are still the popular trim
ming, to the detriment of the flower
trade. The breasts and made feathers
are beautiful and costly. Maple leaves
of feathers, in the bright autumnal tints,
are very handsome on velvet bonnets.
They are sewed flat on the side of the
crown, three or four being considered
sufficient for one bonnet. The few flow
ers that are shown are of almost une-
qualed beauty. The most stylish are
large roses with shaded petals of silk
and satin, and the darker shades are of
velvet.
These roses are superb, and one with
buds is considered sufficient for one bon
net, and large enough for bouquet de
corsage. Since last months report shot
velvet and satin has been quite generally
adopted as a trimming material for bon
nets. Brocades are used, and one bonnet
at a leading importers has crown of
gray Chine silk, with indistinct pink
flowers scattered through it. A twist of
the same silk is wound around the crown,
and pale gray ostrich tips curl over the
top. The brim is of black velvet, and
the strings white point Pesprit. Com
paratively few ornaments are used, and
these are not of very obtrusive charac-
ter, although the large daggers of gilt or
steel are very snowy. Horse-shoes are
favorite ornaments, and Brazilian bugs,
with their bright metallic colors, are
used.
There are few if any shapes commonly
called Ground hats''-that is, those which
rest upon the forehead. All hats and
bonnets are worn off the face, but some
lust to the edge of the hair. For young