The Jasper weekly courier. [volume] (Jasper, Ind.) 1858-1922, 1879-05-09

10y A~o @o~thay scH n"ysl
Considering that fashion Il poised
upon . pivot, and has no more stability
than the winds IL must be regarded as
fortunate that human tastes are Welding
and easily transferred. The panier,
scarcely more than limited at three
months ago, has developed like poll
tician's pet measure, and takes is place
without 50 much as hesitating for the
favor OF acceptance. It is simply in
fashion, and the rest goes without say
ing. The extent to which the panier y
represented Is left entirely to the indi-
vidual; for 1t IL chiefly, and, in large
proportion OF cases, produced by drap-
cry, pleats, and trimmings, 1t interferes
but little with models or designs.
Basques are finished of with wi:e re-
vers and high pockets which enlarge
the hips, or, in the case Of grenadines,
TREY are supplied with drapery sewed
in under the vest-front quite smoothly.
und lifted at the sides in two or three
curtained or festooned loops. Upon
the back Of . grenadine basque pleat-
ed width Is added as an extension 70
the center, and this il looped into
panier, trimmed with lace, ribbon, or
jets. Fine crinoline Is required to stiffea
panier draperies OF grenadine and It's
sue, also for many fancy fabrics ofcrepe,
or delicate silk and wool. A handsome
basque for the above mentioned ma
terials has pleated centers both at the
front and back, and the sleeve isnade
to correspond. The general outline OF
THE doo;rv, 4. .~...-o L..x A. 49,
cut up high above the hips in order "a
show the looped drapery Of the over.
skirt beneath. Vests are seen on al
most every basque this season, and
when this Is not included in the design
proper, the center-front Of the basque Is
filled up with snowy jabot Of lace,
which may match the trimming Of the
dress, II that Is lace, or it may Be de-
tached article Of lingerie. The first
named style is most admired. Princesse
dresses, more than other designs, NAV
be conveniently provided with panier
effects. The drapery Is easily arranged
high upon the hips, and short apron is
cut pointed at the sides, and shirred up
TO half the depth in the ccnter-front.
These additional aprons are really
mere matters Of trimming, and are add.
ed often TO any princesse design which
Ii smooth over the hips, and has drapery
folds or pleats disposed across the foot.
Polonaises, SO far from being rejected
favorites this season, are much admired
for their adaptability to new ideas OF
drapery. Those that are originally
closed in front are sometimes left
open at some distance above the hem,
and the depth carried up in deep folds,
or pleats As high as the figure may re-
quire, makes an extremely handsome
tf.ct. When center-front is closed
and happens 10 be shirred. the extra
length upon the hips is also shirred, and
carried higher. The models Of polo
naises are not changed by varieties OF
garniture or draping; ladies wear them
as they are, quite as frequently as other
wise, and it must not be supposed that
any revolution in fashion has taken
place because greater effect OF pulled
drapery is suggested, for unless the
panier IS becoming 70 the figure, it is
BY no means adopted. Overskirts are
now sharing the general liking for
handsome draperies with trimmed skirts
which always have the advantage rs re-
CARDS convenience. The newest designs
are exceedingly dressy, and show quite
As much elaboration as the basque be.
longing to the costume. All designs
which open more or less in front are
classed as curtain overskirts, and these
are admired because they admit OF m
panel being placed upon
the skirt beneath. This panel matches
the vest Of the basque, or where jabot
Of lace takes the place of the vest, the
same garniture fills up the open space
on the skirt-front. Fashion still com
mends overskirts which are draped in
dependently Of each other on the sides.
For instance, the right side will show
its depth taken mp BY pleats laid in q
cluster, while the left side has simply
lines Of stirring uniting the sides and
back. A stylish design for
grenadine mixed with dama,-
see silk has panels, similar at both
sides, and the front Is made dressy with
widths Of grenadine carried across, in
festoon shape, and each trimmed with
lace and looped ribbons. The back l.
pulled, and made longer than the front.
II there u favorite mode Of disposing
of the extra length Of polonaises, over
skirts, etc., this season, il u BY shirring;
and this Is carried into vestfrOnts, and
even into sleeves, made Of grenadine and
other diaphanous fabrics. ~ Unlined
sleeves for the street are not admired;
engthwise-pleated and shirred designs,
not too full. ard yet made with sufficient
width to protect the arm, are more pop
llar. Very many new dresses show
ichus made Of the dress material, hand
'omely trimmed: These are cut in half
shape, and laid in easy
Odds around the neck; the ends are
'arelessly looped below the bust, or they
ire precisely held In place down the
ront by three straps elabcrstcly trim