The Forest Republican. [volume] (Tionesta, Pa.) 1869-1952, 1879-10-15
FARM, GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD
Approved Modes ofBuddInR.


ing, as most farmers understand, not the
least in its nature or effects. Each bud
is distinct individual capable of be-
coming tree under favorable circum-
stances. In grating, branch COM
posed of several buds is employed with
considerable quantity of bark and
wood, while in budding but single
bud with a small quantity of the ad-
joining bark and wood is used.
Pomologists are now giving the pref
erence to budding in the majority of
cases--first, because of the great rapid
ity with which it may be accomplished;
second, the more convenient season at
which it is done; third, the fact that the
operation can be performed without in
juring the stock in case of a failure,
which is always more or less liable in
stocks headed down for grating; fourth,
the opportunity which it affords, when
performed in good season, of repeating
the trial on the same stock. To these
several advantages may be added, bud
ding is preferred for all stone-fruits,
such as peaches and apricots, which re-
quire extra skill in grating but which
are budded with ease.
The season for budding fruit trees ex-
tends from the lst of July until about
the 1st of October. Such as cease to
grow early in the season must Oe budded
early, as soon as mature buds can be OBJ
tanned, because it can only be done while
the stocks are in a free, growing state,
tull of sap. Such as grow until late in
the autumn must be budded later. The
common sort of plums terminate their
growth early in the season and are there
fore budded early, whether with plums,
peaches or aDricots. The Canada plum
nd oh nj
fall and may be budded much later.
The different trees come into season as
| follows: Plums, cherries, apricots on
plums, pears, apples, ounces, nectarines,
and peaches. In short, perform the
operation of budding only when the
bark of the stock parts or separates
freely from the wood and when the
buds of the years growth are some
what plump and the young wood is
growing firm.
The implements required are prun-
| ing knife to remove any branches on the
stock that may be in the way of insert
ing the bud, and budding knife, very
thin, smooth and keen-edged, to take off
the buds and make the incisions in the
stock. In selecting buds convenient
way is to choose thrifty shoots that have
nearly done growing and prepare what
is called stick of buds by cutting off a
few of the imperfect buds at the lower
end and such as may yet be too soft a.
the upper end, leaving only smooth,
we'll developed single buds, double buds
being fruit buds. The form Of wood
bud is always long rather than round.
In the case of peaches there are some
times triple buds, the center one of
which is a wood bud.
Shield or T-budding is one approved
mode. A variety of this method, recon-
mended by Downing and practiced by
many horticulturists. is as follows: Hav-
ing ready n stick of buds and soft woolen
yarn or strands of bass mating, moist
ened in water to make them pliable for
tying the buds. choose a smooth portion
of the stock. When the latter is small.
other things being equal, let the buds be
inserted near the ground, also on the
north side of the stock, as less exposed to
the sun. A rule observed by many is
"In free stocks place the bud within
three or four inches of the ground; al
dwarf stocks bud close to the surface OF
the ground" Rapid, late growing ten
der varieties, liable to be winter-killed
in some ATTITUDES if budded near the
ground, should be budded sufficiently
high to avoid injury, but as genera
thing low budding makes the best trees
Having decided on the place, make an
upright incision in the bark from an inch
to an inch and a half long al,G at the tor
of this make q cross-cut so that the
whole shall form a T. From the stici
of buds, with the buddine knife, cut 1
thin, smooth slice of wood and bark con
tanning a bud. With the rounded end o
the knife next raise the jarR on each sid,
of the incisiOn Just vice CROUCH to ad
nit the prepared bud. Taking hold O.
the footstock of the leaf insert the buC
under the bark, pushing it gently down
to the bottom of the incision. II the up
per portion of the bud projects above tn
, horizontal part of the L cut it smoothl,
off that it may completely fit. A band
age is next tied over the wound, begin
ming at the bottom and tying tirml,
above, leaving the end and footstock o
the leaf fOnly exposed to the air. Common
) shield budding differs from the meIhod
described in the removal of the slice o
wood contained in the bud. Advocate
for the latter contend that when the bu'
, has only the shield of bark it is NOR
, liable to get destroyed by heat or drynes
than when the wood is left on.
In about a fortnight after budding it
success or failure will be apparent. If
! has succeeded and the stock is a goo
! deal swollen, loosen or remove the band
age. If it has failed and the bark stil
, parts readily make another trial. MI
! knights plan of tying buds with tw,
bandages is often practiced, one beloN
! and one above the bud. In this case tn
; lower bandage is removed as soon as tn
! bud bns talen, the upper one remainin
: two or .'ee weeks longer.-NelO YOT
World.
: usehOId Hints.
Castor oil will soften leather.
q To whiten ivory, boil in lime water.
b Hay water is good for washing ms
; teriaI of ecru tint.
e To rid closets of ants, use green per
J. permint frequently.
! To clean zinc, rub on fresh lard wit
= = "A cloth and wipe dry.
y Paint shonld be Vanished. because