The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1879-09-10

The fur felts of the coming season are .
great improvement in manufacture over
those of last autumn. The pile is longer, and
is IS soft and glossy as that of the finest
beaver that ever appeared on . wealthy
Quaker's head. Plush felt is very light, and
with its warm, comfortable effect for wear in
cool or cold weather, it will doubtless be
among the leading features in the street tot
let's of the next two seasons.
For the haute toilets of the later weeks
of autumn and for winter, velvet and satin
made bonnets will be in vogue. A novelty
IN velvet manufacture is . variety that bears
the name velours antique, material which
has cut pile, and more fluffy pile than
the cut velvet. but a surface less deep and
fluffy than plush. The pile has been subjected
to the rolling process, and the face is that of
the very heavy old satin of which the
petticoats of our neutrality-suspicious.
were made. Terry, or uncut velvet, appears
in several of the models from Paris modistes,
and the fine royal uncut velvet is seen in
dainty creations for reception and evening
wear. There will be, however, no DETECTION
in popularity for cut velvet, while the use of
two and three materials appear in many OF
the model bonnets that have been sent out
from Paris.
Distintive of the coming season are the
chameleon or shot velvets, satins ribbons, etc.
These effects, it will be understood, are pro-
duced by the different and contrasting colors
in the warp and in the wool. Thus we have
the peculiar tint of the raisin, in uncut velvet
of old-gold warp, and the brownish crimson
called zulu" color in the wool Gendarme-
blue vieux-rouge, gold and black, gold and
laurel green, channels and lavender, etc. are
woven together with the effect of the Turc
satin of 20 years ago.
Bead-embroidered lace is noticeable in the
list of bonnet materials. This has been i'm
ported in crown and brim patterns, will,
scarf for brides and piece lace for trimming
For the crowns and brims the lace is stretch
ed on satin, and the effect in the bonnet is
that of the satin embroidered with the cut
beads and bugles. Some of the most tasteful
bonnets to which our attention has bee..
called have the crown of beaded lace on satin
and the brim of cut velvet. The jet beading
of the summer is continued, with
beading in opalescent and iridescent colors.
and lophophore and merle effects to match in
idea the chameleon or shot velvets, ribbons
and other millinery garniture.
The remark above will prepare the reader
for what is to be told about the ribbons that
have come in.
A novelty in ribboas appears in the twilled
manufacture with the sheeny surface of satin.
The effective twilled ribbons are in shot or
chameleon colors-the warp of one color, and
the wool of a contrasting color-and in these
all the fashionable and standard colors are in
troduced.
Double-faced ribbons are still de rigeuer.
Of these the most pleasing variety is the
satin-lined velvet. Double-faced satin rib
bons will be as much used As they have been
for the last three seasons, and gros-grain-
lined satin ribbons will also be seen. The
double-faced ribbons are generally of mono
chrome, though there are also small i'm
portstions of two-colored and two-tonsd rib
bons.
Monochrome pekin ribbons are satin
striped on gros-grain ground, and are particu-
lsrly pleasing in the new colors. Brocaded
ribbons are also shown, but the fancy
will be for ribbons of plain texture. Ribbons
of Nos. Is and 20 are those in greatest de-
msnd, while they run up in width to No. 80
FEATHERS, BIRDS, ETC.
Feathers of all kinds will be used in pro-
fusion. Ostrich feathers are in short nodding
| tips, demi-long tips, and full-length plumes
| shaded in two colors to match the shot vel
| vets and ribbons and two tones of color, and
in monochrome, willow and fringe finished
They are arranged in clusters or bands of the
small curled tips, two or three demi-Ione
| tips clasped together under metal or beaded
| ornament in the center Of the crown of the
bonnet, or one or two plumes sweep grace.
| fully around the brim or over the crown.
All sorts of stuffed birds will be worn
Those of brilliant. natural plumage are in
| highest favor, though we are inclined tc
think that the art of the dyer has had much
to do with some of the parti-colored birds OF
| recent appearance. South American hum
ming birds of the most glowing metallic
| colors are clustered in threes, fives and sew.
ems, set beak to beak. with their tails spread
out like a round fan on the side or in the
| front of bonnets clasping one or two demi
| long ostrich tips, or upholding bow of rib
bon. Mounted garlands of whole hummine
birds, of the head and breast, or only the
wings, decorate the front or form the inside
trimming of bonnets, or surround the crown,
| of bonnets and hats; and in all conceived-o
bizarre arrangements humming birds anc
sun birds will be used.
| Bronze merle, paroquets, pigeons, dove
and other birds of medium size are in tn,
| line of the fashionable. The smaller OF thes,
birds are used whole, but more frequently
the bird is split, presenting the head, back
tail and wings; or sideways, presenting tn,
head, section of the breast, one wing, and
| half the tail. The wounded dove, with it
pretty head bent back against one wing, il
| among the trimming millinery caprices; and
they are sad evidences of mans ruthlessnes.
to his own advantage to be noted at every
turn in the stuffed birds of the millinery
market.
Beautiful effects are noticeable in the
mounted pieces of the breast feathers of va
rious bright-plumaged birds. These are in
club-shaped arrangements, bands and crown
of lophophore, iridescent, and cashmere col
ors. requiring for their perfection the breas
feathers of the impeyan and golden pheasants
the bronze merle, the peacock, the cardinal
the Baltimore oriole and humming birds
various combinations and designs being re
sorted to to create tine thing of beauty.
Human Judgments