The New York herald., 1879-12-14
BEAUTY ADORNED
Paris AttireS Her Bellies for
the Winter Season.
A COIFFEUR,S CARNIVAL
Queen Christine Of Spain and
Margherita OF Italy.

Hoearth and Sir Joshua Reynolds are dividing the
honors OF reproduction from their pictures for our
present fashion styles. The former furnishes the
idea for the make and cut the latter for color. We
have gone back still further. even to that tender
Princess Valentine OF Milan. whose peaked bodices
fitted beautifully. whose embossed velvet flowing
skirt (nacarat and royal blue) was so gracefully
draped her slender figure. We are wearing her
ive-rowed chains too on half high bodces.
aud nearly all demi-toilet bodces have
square 'rasstas" on the bosom flied
up with wonderfully worked chemisettes, shirred.
boullonned and inlaid. These four and i've rowed
chains Of Venetian origin. In times they
arc made Of imitation diadems and other precious
gems called diamanes brilliant They support me-
iallions. still better enanels, which set round
with pearls. and have long pear-shaped pearl drop
that shivers on the bodice. We have not yet come
to Valentine Vscontis cap. 1t partakes OF the
Norman nurses conical head gear. though futed on
the forehead. and of ST. Vincent Sisters flaps down
each side. 1t certainly characteristics, but more
appropriate than many other strange caps in vogue.
The trouble with renaissance revivals will be
our heads. Unless we costume to a fancy ball we
never think of wearing proper shaped hat coif-
fure in perfect keeping with the rest We make ma
terial and colors correspond of course but we are
too much tied down to conventional notions carry
out individual ideas they should be. We 90
about with long and high poke or with halo brim
round our faces; put toque OF sealskin quite
out of date with the ensemble or commit some other
such atrocious anachronisms. but be historical we
cannot. People would stare" then leave the copy
OF medieval dresses alone. We must give up being
fifteenth century heroines, that is ALL keep to
humdrum Directoire abominables. Anything
ventiona rule. is inartistic. Readers well say
that Persian designs conventional, and yet much
admired. They are at present. but this does not
prove that they artistic. Design aud color
two different things. Persian coiorings beautl-
full.
QUEENS
The fashionable coiGeavs. figure improvers deco
rators and mares dh6te have left this capital for
Madrid. The choice and make of the young Kings
bridal presents, in the way of Dress had been sub
mitted by His Majesty to the Duchess de Sesto who
has exquisite taste, and she much complinented
on her selections when the royal wardrobe
hioited to u few connoisseurs in the saloons Of the
famed couturier have admirable full even-
Ing toilet for Queen Margaret OF Italy made of thick
salmon satin; the train is full, initiating, as this
appendage always should. the tail of the bird
secraed to Juno. The front OF the dress is salmon,
like the rest. and covered with frills or Alencon
sewed Oh in the shape Of. V. with thick salmon
satin dahlia at each point. Each trill is adorned
with white, long, glass fringe that being of the
purest crystal, produces the effect OF Oriental
sunset: this is due the scinlatng effect Of gas
on the salmon lustrous material and crystal
cOmDlned. The train worked round with the
salmon satn in laurel Leaf shape while psses Of
the same come in between. Nile colored foliage.
mimosa blossoms and plume made fern to be
the floral adornments 1t has been falsely stated
that wreaths ball dresses out of date. There
are rules of this kind Thus robe of tule.
spangled with gold and adorned with white China
crepe. encirced with festoons of amber and gold
coored roses; the fringes on the bosom drapery
amber crystal and gold beads, while the peak Of the
bodice is entirely bordered with large hollow amber
beads. This kind of beading is quite fashionable,
too. for rounded basques. and it comes in between
the pufs of sleeves.
RoBED FOR THE WINTER
The new costume for December is in the Henri II.
style 1t is made of paon and murky green
stamped velvet. The train Is paon. the bodice is
tight with sashlngs in the cuirass basque; the col
lar Is high behind and in trout, lending rather
stiff neck appearance the wearer; the sleeves
slashed and set in very high on the shoulders they
are OF the velvet material the forearm, however, of
the paon. kind OF gauntlet falls the elbow and
thus hides the discrimination of color that the
paon proceeds. it were, from under the gauntlet;
the forearm is tight to the wrist
Never the cuffs OF sleeves palmer. sometimes
there is nothing to adorn them put depassam Of
are Japanese inlaid or Rudolph buttons antique
enames.
1t seems Incredible but there is a Pompadour
broche being made up for revers which
1GOf. per metre. Very little is required. but
scrap or costs a few dollars. The way of using
this is ON overwrappei tunc fronts for tunics there
are which form three separate drapes down the
front-thus a very pale tiileul satin is required in
upholstery drape for the bottom of d tablier; over
this second shade OF tilleui is draped in plain,
folded style; the third drape is side and has
the hip and finally borders part of the train.
Waists OF all makes. The pointed this
Henri II. costume, with slashes; others are laced
half way, or down the back and front. The open
bodice and undervest are still maintained also the
polonaise. but with panier folds rounding the
fronts into the back seams.
The deshablle is now article of great import
1t is loose jacket with loose sleeves round
the armholes. loose fronts and made Of sarah mixed
with satin or with plush and SATIN either
trimmed with cream colored Bretonne Alencon or
imitation point according to the kind Of deshabille
required. The pret,iest coral pink and nacarat
plush with real crimped Brctonne falls down the
fronts. in order to form foamy jabot and the bows
are coral pink. The other two delightful coors for
a deshabille are heliotrope and Nile green.
MASTLEs FROM CASHMERE.
must now describe the new winter mantle. Well.
every body will be having one. because cashmere
shawl is easily employed without cutting for the
make of it. and cashmere shawls employed for
any shape not shawls. 1t is a mantle. however.
to the ankles. and the opening behind from waist
downward is filled in with frills Of black lace.
Tile front Is straight aud frilled with one
of lace each side. but on this is placed
very deep horiated. beaded galoon SO far there Is
shoulders and neck, for all the funess has to be
disposed Of there being cut in the material. This
Is done by shirriLg round the neck and by drawing
the threads in To the shape OF the wearer down to
the end or the collar bones the remainder OF the
material necessarily rides up and forms kind Of
ridge on the shoulder which is considered the
beauty OF the whoe concern. II look at the pic
lures OF that bIoated King OF England who was. In
his way. defender OF the Faith we shall see he
wore mantle of this Kind hen he wished to look
amiable and sat for his portrait. At the Cathedral
Church oil gloucester there is the cfgy OF or the
Edwards with cloak this make on, at least down
to the shoulders; aud many of tho French Queens
are represented with IL made of fur skins and OF vel
vet aud ermine believe the adoption of this make
pleads Tor corresponding piece OF headgear, and
cannot fancy coup dc rent poke on the top of 1t.
By the way, that too Is novelty. coup de rent
hat means literally that is almost switched OF
ones head by sudden gust wind; only it IL made
OF velvet anu wire ia that sdeway shape 1t Is orna-
ncnted with ostrich tips and bunch OF carnations
IN the warm shades Ill up the gap when bandeaux
nrc d Ia reiigieuse-that is. Hat.
The style of hairdrcssing IN very becoming
Ali chignons ont or the question; the false hair
ts all locks. aud waves completely the skull
when the wcarer's own hair into use for
natural that fall all over the neck. but not
heavily like love locks in fantastic. unstudied way.
The most extraordinary adorninent for the ball
room is the addition of two or throe marabout
feathers placed low down on tho Lapc OF the neck.
FfGAltos.
Talking Of hair drcssing u very novel way of col.