The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1879-01-09
[Harper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.

The graceful costume with cauezou BASQUE
and jabot over-skirt, is simple and stylish de-
sign for plain dresses to be worn either 10 the
house or street. At the present moment it is
seen in soft wooden stuffs, either plain, plaided
or striped; and we take pleasure in suggesting
its appropriateness for the percale, calico and
lawn dresses that ladies prepare during the
late winter months for spring and summer;
the furnishing houses are making Just such
dresses of plaid or striped Chevot or Scotch
gingham to be worn by their Southern custo-
mers even during thu winter mouths. The
waist and over-skirt are so simply shaped that
they are suitable for the planest dark print
that busy housewife makes up for morning
wear.
The canezou basque has a small square yoke
to which the loose, full blouse extending down
over the hips, is sewed in gathers instead of
pleats. The word canezou implies flowing
garment, and the Partisan fancy Is to let this
corsage hang unconired below the yoke, but
this has a most neglgee appearance and is
only used here In dressing sacques, while
breakfast dresses are worn with belt, and in
many cases have the gathered parts at the
waist line sewed in permanent gathers on a
belt or lining; this does very we'll for wooden
dresses bat is Objectionable for cotton fabrics
as the gathers are troublesome to the laundress.
The yoke needs strong lining in most dresses,
as the strain Of the corsage rests upon it; the
blouse part is never lined, as 1t would be too
clumsy. The lower edge is simply hemmed or
fsced. or else finished with piping fold.
The iabot over-skirt is merely long, eep,
round apron front with very wide side cores
that meet in the back underneath the jabot
fall. The pleated part low do wn on the apron
is formed by pleats in the side form sewed
there permanently; but If, owing to the stiff
ness OF the fabric, or for any other reason, they
do not arrange themselves nicely by the use Of
these pleats, it is we'll to aid them by lacking
the pleats also on the seams Joining the front
gore to the sides. The back of the side cores
should be firmly bound with tape or braid after
the pleats are SET, aud should be tied back
tightly. The back breadth is put over this in
large Hat peats that form jabot-like sides. The
edge OF this jabot breadth is so rounded below
and SO bias on the sides that it must be faced
instead of being hemmed, as q hem would not
lie smoothly; where the wrong side of the
goods differs from the right side, this facing
must be very wide, as the reverse side is seen
in parts of the jabot.
The plain gray and brown woolsns that are
worn in the early spring will look we'll made
in this way; de beges left over from last season.
basket woolens Of light quality, and the stylish
camels-hair and eashmeres Of solid coler are
all being used at the furnishing houses for
such dresses. In some instances, o collar
cuffs, belt aud hanging chatelaine bag of velvet
are added to such dresses to make them more
wintry looking, and a garnet cashmere with
velvet accessories of the same color is especial-
ly pretty; others have silk trimmings instead of
velvet; and still others of Cheviot and cloth
mixtures, in checks, plaids or stripes are en-
tirely OF one material. One imported dress Of
this kind is Cheviot cloth in pin-head checks of
blue and gray wholly of the cloth, even the
/ chatelaine bag with nickel clasp beirg made Of
it. 4
The newest cslicoes found on the counters
are striped in twilled lines initiating the
Cheviot patterns. For present use they come
in navy blue, dark green, seal brown or olive
shades with white twilled line stripes in clust-
ers; dealers say the dark garnet shades so popu-
lar at present are being made mp in these
goods. Chintz patterns of palm leaves, or else
of Pompadour colors in rosebuds, daisies, and
other small flowers, are shown on black, brown
and maroon grounds in good shilling calicoes of
domestic manufactures. The bordered calicoes
are also much used and they trim over-skirts,
basques, and pleated founces very prettilly,
and, moreover, they wash well when neatly
sewed on without drawing. Many prints with
beige or elss cream-colored grounds are shown;
some OF these are striped with garnet, OF
signs. The Scotch ginghams are now bought
in the regular tartan plsids Of the gsyest
| hues; when these are genuine Scotch goods they
! wash and wear well, as they certainly should
| when 75 cents yard is asked for them. The
French ginghams known as Madras ginghams
have gay red bars and plaids on white grounds;
| these are 35 to 40 cents a yard.
DRESS, BoNNETs, ETC.
| White bonnets trimmed with pleatng of Bre.
| ton lace are the novelty for receptions and
| dress hats. The entire bonnet may be Of
white net, or else it is of ribbed silk, velvet,
felt, or, more elegant still, of white satin put
| smoothly on the frame. The Breton lace of
| trimming width-between two and three iu-
ches broad-s then pleated as finely as if
crmped, and put in several rows across the
crown, or else there are only two rows around
| the brim of the front and edging the curtain
band below the crown. Still other bonnets
| have only strings of india null edged with
pleated Breton lace These strings are about
fourth of yard wide, are very long, and are
passed across the curtain band in the back
without cutting them; they are then tied under
the chin 10 very large, soft. loose bow. A
| black satin bonnet relieved by these white
strings is considered very elegant. Garnet
velvet, navy blue, and black velvet bonnets are
finished in the same way.
Scarfs to wear around the neck outside Of
fur lined cloaks, seal-skin sacques, or velvet
mantles are made of the soft white India null,
trimmed all around with pleatsd Breton lace,
and having three or four rows pleated straight
across each end. These scarfs are so wide that,
when gathered up around the neck, they are
almost as warm as fur boa, and are used to
take the place of furs. This lace is much
cheaper than it was when first used year ago,
and has quite taken the place of torchon OF
Smyrna lace as trimming for outside gar
ments; the Smyrna lace is still used on plain
underclothing, as 1t is most durable trim
ming.
When first used the Breton lace with straight
edges was preferred; but now the most expeu-
sive lace of this kind has a needle-worked edge