The Portland daily press., 1879-11-13
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Seal-skn is shown in darker, richer shades
this winter than The furriers have ever before
obtained and remains the favorite fur for
sacques and cloazs. The sacque is the popular
garment, and is very little changed in shape
from those worn last year. The length is about
the same, but sacques trifie shorter than last
sesaon's shapes may be worn, though the depth
depends on the length of dress skirts lady
prefers to wear. The most stylish sacques for
ladies Of medium height range from thirty
seven to forty inches in length. The front of
the sacque is double-breasted, has a broad re-
vers collar that opens or rolls close to the
throat, like gcntlemau's coat collar and is
fastened the entire length by bars Of seal held
by passementcrie loops; buttons are obiectiona-
bic, as they deface the fur. The back is shaped
to follow the outline of the figure, and is slight
ly fuller below the waist to admit a bouifant
tounure. There is no seam down the middle oil
the back, as that part of the garment Is
"blocked" over form; the pile is apt to wear
off in the seams especially in the back, where
it is apt to be rubbed, hence purchasers should
choose sacquos with the fewest seams. The shoul-
ders are very short and high, giving masculine
and jaunty effect. Sleeves without cuffs are pre-
ferred, as the cuff gives clumsy appearance.
The quilted lining is Of satin grec-a lustrous
twilled silk that does not fray. Plain sacques,
and those enriched by a collar, cuffs, and wide
border of another kind of fur, are both fashion
able. Careful purchasers usually prefer put
ting all the money spent for the garment in
plain untrimmed sacque Of fashionable shape
and fine quality of seal skin, depending for its
beauty on its fine fit and rich fur; at "a future
season, if change is desired OF the later style
requires greater length, a border of other fur
can be added. The strong Alaska seal skins
with thick durable pet are used for most
sacques, while those of extraordinary fineness
are made of the Shetland skins; the latter,
however, are almost out of the market, as few
Shetland seals are now taken The purchaser
should blow open the fur and stroke it against
the pile to assure herself of the depth and vel
vet-like thickness of the pile, also that it is
we'll colored to the pelt. There is an increase
in the price of the raw skins in Europe, owing
to their scarcity, and also to the greater de-
mand for them since Parisiaas have acknowl-
edged their beauty and made them the fash
ionable fur. But Notwithstanding this adj
garments are as yet very little increased in
price though it is said they will be much
more costly later in the season. Plain un-
trimmed sacques of good quality and stylish
length cost from SIPS up. A very fine Alaska
seal sacque costs $500, and those of Shetland
SEAL richly bordered, are $500 or more. The
garment that furriers find meets with most
favor is an untrimmed Alaska sacque marked
$175. To add border of course increases the
expense. Beaver, chiuchiIla and other trim
mings are the most fashionable for sacqnes
The silvery and the plain brown beaver are,
perhaps, most used, and are COSTLY as collar
cuffs and border Of such beaver will add so or
800 to the price Of the sacque Chinchilla
trimmings are still more expensive, and are
only becoming to blondes; the price for trim
ming a sacque with this delicate gray fur is
500 to $50, according to the width and quality
of the fur used. An unplucked otter border is
very handsome, and will cost from SO to S120
while the plucked otter trimming will range
from $50 to S75. A border of the rich black
marten fur is very effective, and is added to
the sacque at cost OF $40 to $40. n muif OF
seal skin is added to wear with the sacque. 1t
must be as small as possible, and without tas-
sells or bows at the ends; sometimes 1t is bor-
dered with the fur used for trimming the
wrap. Muffs of Alaska seal cost from Sl2 to
$25, while those of Shetland are S15 to $50.
The long cloaks of seal skin are even more
luxurious garments than the sacques Just de-
to the ankle and are shaped very much as
many cloth and silk cloaks are, with two or
three seams down the back, and Dolman effects
given on the sides by great sleeve-like pieces
that fold over the arms. A few are untrimmed,
but most have wide borders of fur with long
fleece and broad Russian collars of the trim
ming fur, which is lined with seal fur, and
thus made doubly warm. The border usually
extends up the front, and the garment has
ely to button all its length; the quilted lin
ing is of satin gree the color of the seal-skin or
else dark rich cardinal red. The prices of the
cloaks shown range from 1928 to 5000. The
long fleeces are very elegant for trimming
these stately wraps, such as the Argentine fox,
the Grecian CT the blue lynx, the black marten
and the natural coon. There are also beauti-
full wide borders of the silvery black beaver,
or in clusters or of the natural beaver in its
light brown shades, SO soft and velvet-like,
while for novelties the gold brown and black
skins Of the spotted leopard are used for deep
collars, wide cuffs and border
The echarpe Tor yictorine) with long wide
ends i'll front to cover the chest is fast taking
the place of the boa in sets of fur; indeed, the
boa is almost confined to fur seal and black
marten, as lheSe furs are more effective when
made round instead Of fiat. There are also
pelerine collars with points back and front that
are especially effective when made of chin
chilla. and to these is added a new fur collar
that rolls high around the neck, and is attached
to "a sort OF colarette of silk that may be passed
under any cloak, and thus attach the fur collar
to it, as though it were part of the garment.
Muffs are as small as it is possible to make
them when expected to cover both hands, and
are also perfectly plain, that is without bows.
fur tails, or tassels OH the ends. 4 fiat bag or
reticule of fur is made to match these sets, and
is hooked to the sides.