New-York tribune., 1879-08-26
RURAL ENGLAND.
BOAT VOYAGE on TIE WYE.
RIVER sCENERY-Ross-GOODRlCH CAsTLE-TlN-
TEN ARREY

at Chester who does" Stratford, Warwick ana
ken worth at the remnant Of day. and then fushes
up to London little thinks that the train is whlsk
ing HIM away from one of the most beautiful regions
in tins wonderful island Poetry has given the
scenery of the Wye a lasting renownj and yet al
though il lies only little TO the westward % the
ordinary route Of travel from the Mersey to the
Thames few travellers from our country know any
thing of its enchanting prospects. In the surller
season the railway companies advertise cheap rates
for the |" Tour Of the Wye" and dare say ther
excursion tickets worth what they coss' al
though il must be confessed that the frequency
with which the trains plunge into the bowels OF the
mountains and run through long tunnels at the
most picturesque points of the road is calculated 70
interfere with the travellers enjoyment. he proper
way to make the descent of the Wye is in a row
boat. This conveyance may be taken at Hereford
whence YOU can doat to the Bristol Channel IN two
easy days Hereford is a shabby and untidy little
city, and ITS ancient cathedral, most yllanousY
restored is not of the best in England Never
theless some hours can be well spent in viewing the
vauted asles and mutilated sbriue-, and the RUNS
of chapter-house and cloisters IL wondering that
rude and ignorant age should have reared Sdch
superb works. and more advanced age
should have battered and destroyed them; in
loungng about the streets where antique
houses with timbercd aud carved fronts, sTili
look neat and sturdy; and then aliet
passing through a dirty lane where Nell G"ynue
was born and a tauge of squalid courts and alleys
where the name of that celebrity is afectionately
displayed upon gates and corners, you VIII come to
a bridge over the Wye, and see before YOU soft
landscape On the left hand smooth lawn slopes
to the waters edge from brilliant and tree-fringed
garden and over the foliage appear the gables and
chimneys Of the Episcopal Palace. On the right.
near row Of pretty cottages. are the boats waiting
for customers, and l am afraid not getting many.
Indeed. for twenty or twenty-five miles below
Hereford the aspect Of the bluks-low meadows,
through which the stream twists itseli-is some
what mouotonous and il Is better 10 take the rail
way as far as Ross, and begin the voyage there.
ROSS.
Mounting the steep slope upon which the little
town of Ross has disposed itself, and passing
around the curious old building in the market
place-a town hall raised aloitupor worn pillars and
red sandstone and Offering shelter under it- arches
to the vendors OF poultry, meas and gooscberries-
Won will find standing sile by side on the main
street booksellers shop and a chemist. shop both
rurporting to be the veritab.e dwelling Of john
KvrIe. celebrated in the third of Pops's Moral Es-
saws as the Man Of Ross
BUT on our praises why -hoult lords e1~r0ssl
Rise. honest muse and sing tnr Man or Ross;
=
But rapid severn uoa--e applause rcsounds
In this case both claimants are equally in the
right; for the two shops were originally one house.
and If was there that John Kvrle passed some of
She most fruitful years of his remarkable life The
town is full of memorials of him. AT the top OF the
hill is the public recreation ground which he
planted for the benefit of his native place. and
next 10 it is the pretty stone church, beautfed by
his Hneraii-y and haiiowed by his remains.
Tomhs and statues, more stately than one would
have looked for u such q little town, are placed
thick around the chancc and in the midst of them
rise two living trces-tall and thrifty elms which
have thrust themselves through the pavement and
crown MP inside the church until they nearly touch
the roof The townspeople regard them with aifec-
tion because they are said TO be shoots from
euue which John Kyrie planted in the churchyard.
They stand Just within one Of tho windows. 1t was
a br cht and quiet sunday afternoon when sat in
the deserted church TO look this pretty spectacle.
The easement was open the branches We're dancing
i'm the wind the light played with the foliage, and
strange shadows fell upon the efigies of departed
knights and danes stretched upon their gray stone
Monuments. and the life-size figure Of a cavalier
standing erect with his hand upon his shield. A
broken cross in the churchyard bears the significant
Inscription: Plague. Auo DOmi, 1857 Buri-
ais 3IJ. Libera nos. Domino A gravestone is
Sacred to the memory Of MARGARET, the wife Of
William Watkins, late chaise-dryer at the Swan
Inn i'm tins town from which we may infer that
NJ Watkins took pride IN his profession. Another
Watkins exclaims, posthumously:
Flrrveu vain world, I have seen enough OF Ae,
Now am careless what Won sans Of me;
Your smiles court not nor rrOwns t,arl
Ny cares past my head lies quiet heGr-
with more Of the same sort But the favorite
epitaph in Ross appears TO have been the familiar
-tanza. Aflictlon sore long time l bore' which is
repeated several times
The Royal Hotel at Ross stands in pleasant gar
dem on the edge Of PERCEPTIONS hill. Looking over
a low viue-covered wall, you see the road below,
cut out Of the side Of the mill then a stretch Of
green bottom land, heights again in the distance,
and the tortuous Wye LurryIng through the a'Iu-
vial valley From this point the wiudinrs Of tLa
river can he deserted for several miles. At Ross 1T
makes an enormous horseshoe bend around one OF
the most beautiful hayfells imggnablc,-a vast
expanse OF perfectly smooth meadow, dotted with
a few oaks, one of which is supposed TO be a thou
sand years old Not more than half a mile away,
on the opposite bank, is tue picturesque lit
tie hamlet oil Wilton In full view of the
hotel are the ivy-clad remains Of Wilton Castle.
built in tie reign Of stephen, and for many gene
rations the residence Of the Lords Grey de Wilton
but ruin now for more than 200 years. There
is fine stone bridge OF the time of Elizabeth, with
curious sharp basuons between the five arches and
on the bridge stands tall sandal bearing a moni-
ton whose wisdom may excuse its syntax:
Esteem thy precious time,
which pass SO quick away;
Prepare then for eternity,
And do not make delay.
Ispent several days at Ross, too much charmed
with the place % leave il. At last the Ross vouu-
teer corps, getting ready for the annual cncamp-
ment began marching about the streets 10 the
tune Of "GrardfatheTs Clock" and babe the boat
man be in readiness for the Ecxt morning. There
r,.rn nf ts nn...u rnrs. Internationally lrnnnr.-