The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1879-04-18

Turin. Italy. April n.

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lungs and ihroats. I crossed the chan
mel, hat short journey so much dreaded
by foreigners generally, bnt thought
nothing of by Americans after their
longer n on passage across the At
lantic-end came TO France smiling In
bright sunshine, n happy contrast to
stern old England we had left behind
five hours ago.
A ridc OF four hours through a pretty
country, cheerful and picturesque,
abounding IN bright prospects, which
fash upon us through the car windows
with the iapidity of dissolving views,
and we nre in Paris, gay, beautiful
Paris. We make no stay here now,
however, for we are en- route for Italy,
that land of sunny sky aud genial eli
mate. So after n good dinner at the
buffet of the Lyons Railway station, we
enter another railway carriage bound
for Turin.
1t is 8 O'Clock at night when we set
out, and tired with our days journey,
we settle ourselves for our nights ride
we think with longing of our luxurious
sleeping coaches at home, and regret
that they are unknown in this part of
tn world.
We ride all night, and at noon the
next day we find ourselves at the Ital-
ian border, where strange looking gold
laced, dirty officials in a mixed jargon
of French and Italian demanded our
passports and the keys TO our luggage.
Finding no tea and no tobacco, they
accept our visiting cards for our pass
ports if we have none, and let us pass.
And now we continue our journey
through a country that reminds me of
our W dear Vermont. only that here
the hill sides are covered with Vine
yards, and the SUBMITS of the lofty
Alps, which now lift their heads above
us, are crowned with snow; and here
and there perched on rocky cliffs,
which from their height would seem to
be almost inaccessible to man, are
grim, rugged old castles in various
stages of decay and ruin, looking as it
they had been carved out of the solid
rock on which they stand.
AS we go on, winding in and out, we
ascend the mountain sides until at last
we reach the snow level, and il seems
as if we had left spring down at the
base of the mountains and had crept up
into old winters lap again.
But at last we enter the Mt. Cents
tunnel, that wonderful construction
which may well bf regarded as one OF
the great mechanical and scientific
events of the nineteenth century.
We are thirty minutes making the
distance of eight miles which consti-
tutes the length of the tunnel, and the
best part of the ride being a descent,
we emerge into the charming valley of
the Dora Riparia, where we catch pass
ing glimpses of wild mountain gorges
and lovely vine clad hills. Clusters of
orange and lemon trees in full fruit;
groves of olive trees, with their green
knotty branches, gnarled trunks and
beautiful foliage. And always the great
Alps towering above. We pass through
short tunnels innumerable, wind about
the river curves seeing delightful views.
And at six O'Clock in the evening, %
hours after leaving Paris, we arrive at
Turin, the first large city on the route
through northern Italy.
Turin is beautifully situated on the
river Pc, and with the Alps for a back.
ground. 1t is quite level and is regu.
larly laid out in broad, clean streets,
and large handsome squares called Pal
azzos, in Il of which, the Palazzo
Real, in the very centre of the city, Il
the Royal Palace, the summer resi-.
dence of King Humbert.
The architecture of the palace is un.
pretentious, indeed, its exterior is rath.
err inclined to shabbiness. 1t is a large
square brick structure, plastered with
the cream tinted stucco so much useC
in Italy. Nor is the interior very at
tractive; it consists in large lofty ap-
partments, %profusely decorated wifi
gildings and mirrors, neither of which
are very fresh. But there are fine pic
lures by many of the old Flemish
masters, and other schools, Titiar
and Murillos and family portraits
of the old House of Savoy by famou,
artists. There Is also a princel,
marble staircase, magnificently dec
GRATED and adorned with statues i,
marble and bronze, one of which rep
resents an equestrian figure of Amade-
us in bronze, the horse is in pure
white marble, and PROSTATE under the
feet Of the horse are two slaves in black
marble; the size is colossal, and The
effect is superb.
But these Italian palaces, be they
royal or ducal, lack the air of comforI
that one finds In houses of less preten
sion at home. We were shown, will
an air OF considerable pride, by the
guide in attendance, a lift or elevate,
! in which the queen descends from heI
apartments into her garden and pri
vate grounds. 1t was rudely construct
ed and furnished, and was raised and
lowered by simple ropes and p~ulleys.
Turin also boasts of a fine old cathe,
dral, erected in 1892, which is also con.
nected with the Royal Palace, and car
be entered from there through a lofty
circular dome which forms a chapel
Immediately behind the high altar o.
the cathedral and is approached by 8
series of steps.
The chapel Is in form O small circle,
beautifully wrought in black marble, II
contains lint monuments and statues In
pure white marble, which produce O
wonderful effect in contrast with the
dark marble of the chapel and its altar,
which latter is decorated with gold,
silver and gems, and Is lighted by four
beautiful and curious hanging silver
lamps. This chapel is the burial place
of the Dukes of Savoy. On the altar,
In a strangely fashioned vase, is a por-
ton of the cloth in which the BODY OF
our Saviour is said to have been wrap
ped after His crucifxion. One finds so
many wonderful specimens of holy
relics everywhere in Italy, that one Is
forced to believe that the miracle OF the
loaves and fishes extends to relics.
Turin is intimately associated with all
Italy's struggles for freedom and
unity, and in her beautiful streets
and squares you constantly see monu-
ments to her illustrious sons who have
borne an honorable share in her de-
fence.
There are few poor looking houses In
the city, the people are as q class indusy
trious and clearly In appearance, and
altogether Turin presents a marked
contrast TO our pre-conceived ideas Of
Italian cities, for she looks new and
fresh, not decayed or ancient, and haA
all the enterprise of a new city, thought
her history dates back to two hundred