The New York herald., 1879-03-10
SPRING FASHIONS.
Costumes that Are Destined to Find
Favor in the Beau Monde.
RESTORATION OF THE PANlER
Materials, Colors, Patterns, Trim
mings and Bijouterie.

Those modern temples OF FASHION. the inillinery
stores throw open their doors to-day and invite the
charming votaries of the goddess of the well dressed
to inspect their wares. The ladies will find in the
novel costumes subject for enthusiastic admra-
hon which will cause a shudder in the hearts of
penurous husbands.
Fashion is not feeble goddess and rarely yields
the attacks of satire by which she is frequently
assailed. Occasionally she to do but it Is
only in seeming. for when fashion is abandoned 1T
is not in Difference assailants. but because its
wearers demand change But in all ages. either
with tho pen or the brush. satirists have
Assaed fashion. In manuscript of the
eleventh century illuminator introduces
the father of all evil dressed in tho prevail
ing STYLE He wears the long sleeves of the period.
which had to be knotted to keep them from touch
ing the ground, the enormously lengthened train
and the dress laced up in front. Trains. however,
did not grow any shorter because of the paper bull
lets of the brain fired them, in tho thirteenth
century satrist thus of the ladies' of the
period:-"They are like peacocks and magpies; for
the pies naturally bear feathers of various coors so
the ladies delight in strange habits and diversity OF
ornaments. The pies not long tails that trail
I'm the dirt so that the ladies make their trains
thousand times longer than those OF peacocks and
pies"
Among other hits at the fashion is found the fol-
lowing announcements, which is called the petition
of zone William Gingle. coachmaker and chair
maker of the liberty of Westminster" He states
that for the service of ladies wearing hoop petit
coats he has built a round chair in the form OF
lantern. six yards and half in circumference with
stool i'm the centre OF it, the said vehicle being so
contrived to receive the passenger by opening in
two in the middle and closing mathematcally when
she is seated And further that he has also invented
coach for the reception of lady only. who is to
ba in at he ton md
been tried by lady's woman in of these full
petticoats who let down from balcony
and drawn up again by pulleys. to the great salts
faction of her lady and all who beheld her.. 1t is
to be hoped that such extremes of fashion will not
be revived in this century. few years ago many of
ladies' hoop skirts measuring four and a
half yards around the lower edge, but when they had
reached that size Dame Fashion kindly declared they
should be laid aside altogether
An old poet tunes his Tyre to the following song:
Now dressed in cap, now naked in none;
Without handkerchief now, and now buried in ruff;
Now plain as Quaker, now all In puff;
Now s 5aRs Esss Is now "'n IL ya4 in
Now monstrous in hoop. now trapish. and walking
Like the cock the toweS you tho weather,
You are hardly the same for two days together
Notwithstanding these attacks. Fashion sits Sc
curely her ancient throne, having the whole
world for her empire and all the inhabitants thereon
for her subjects.
PANIER
The most pointed surprise of the Is the
restoration of the panier. or the so-called Camargo
puff. which introduced in tho eighteenth century
along with Vatican dresses and garden theatricals'
1t is predicted that fashion will restore the very
Camargo which called go rage and n YER
tigo." but until it is safe to venture upon
travagance paniers will be of the same material as
the dress. and procured more by loopngs draperies
md trimmings than by separate pu1s. wings, &C.,
applied to the costume.
For ordinary walking dresses "trimmed" skirt
that is skirt with the trimming arranged directly
it, is combined with jacket more or less tight
fitting or an overskrt and short skirt, the latter
either trimmed with a simple founce left plain.
according to the goods used. Polonaises of simple
designs also employed to complete costumes. but
not so fashionable as the above mentioned ar
rangements. For suitings the "tailor" fnsh-rows
machine s.itching-is the accepted trimming. the
vest collars. cuts and of some different ma
teriaI from the rest of the garment. For costumes
made of cloth and the heavier woollen goods used
for early spring and travelling the underskirt is OF
unfrequently without trimming Of any kind. except
Ing several rows of stitching near the bottom and
"Birena. the "Muriel' or the "Lilea," finished to
match the underskirt.
This is one of the simplest and most practical
designs for a trimmed walking skirt. 1t has
moderately u
deep kilt plating the bottom. This skirt is suit
able alike for heavy or light goods, dressy or
ordinary wear, and is really an excellent de-
where combination OF materials is used.
the Berenice is especially desirable This
has short. fully drapcd apron. from which
rovers are turned back aud carried to the back
where they support the drapery in moderate pouf
Another STYLE especially suitable for summer
silks and grenadines. is the Litta, which has
the apron and side cores pulled and the
back effectively draped Two. and even
tor street costumes, and this applies to the simple
suits made of percale cotton satine, marine cloth
aud other fabrics for summer wear The rule OBJ
when only two fabrics used Is to have the
costume itself made entirely of one goods and the
accessories and trimmings of the other. There is
wide scope for the of much taste in the
lection and arrangement of the goods to be used in
combination, and while strong contrasts are allowa
bic. good taste dictates that the arrangements must
not be bizarre In effect.
RECEPTION TOILETS.
An elegant reception toilet is arranged with tho
"Rosand" train and the 'Dcsirtc' basque, made in
green silk, with the vcst collar and cuffs the
basque of French moiro OF the same color. satin
stripe alternating with waiered one and the puff
ings the front of white crepe ssc This dress IL
trimmed with exquisite fringe of green twist and
chenille combined having strands dotted with cry stal
beads. very stylish dress is made in chine summer
silk. dark plum and old gold colors, trimmed with
plain plum colorcd silk and rich fringe in which
both colors nermixed The trained skirt is known
~ the ''Owondoline." and Ia trimmed with broad
rovers on the front, which connected with painter
araIcry at tha sides. while the back IN looped In n
simple but very effective manner. Tho bottom of
the skirt is trimmed with Marguerite platings of the
same material ~ the dress. headed by chicorcc
ruching of old gold and plum coiorcd silks. Tho
Anatolin basque has PLAN vest In front with broad
the sides continuing to tho back, which Is
much longer than the front
The "pauyna" costume IN designed for young
lady Of fourteen aud is very handsome. The ''1p.
tha skirt IA another attractive style. Tho brenda
jacket IL decidedly masculine ia character. and has
coat back with tho side forms carried To the shoul-
dcrs.
MATERIALS
While the spring H. scarcely more than prophecy
and promise tho shops fu of scasonable fabrics.
The first that likely be required are heavy wool
sutings which OF lats years have been known under
the general OF caIncs hair cloths. and these
now introduced In what are called mode colors aud
extremely soft and flexible. The surface thus
s smoother than before. though the long hairs
are not lacking Casnmcres are rapidly taking the
place of camels hair fabrics and there effects