The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-12-06

WEAR FOR WINTER WEATHER.
What the Ladies Appear in and
How it Should be Made.
Dresses, Mnffs, Trimmings, Millinery
and Children's Fashions Intel.
ligently Discussed.


One material seldom composes the en-.
tire costume, and when this is the case,
beaded paSsementeries break the monot.
ony. Black is no longer the uniform for
winter street wear, although it is much
used when enlivened with trimmings bro.
caded in the gay cashmere colors in palms
or arabesques. All Persian and Oriental
effects are shionable. Peacock shades
share popularity with them.
For the street there is no one distinct.
i've style Of costume worn by all. Ladies
no longer dress in a uniform, but indi
vidusl taste is allowed full play, and q
pleasing variety is the result. Combina.
tions, however, are the rule Paris re.
ports say that there is limit to the pop
ularity of bouffant drapery, and the an.
ticipated voluminous skirts will not YET
make their appearance. Styles have
changed materially within the last six
months, but the change is not as great as
was predicted. More fullness is intro.
duced into overdresses, and. tapes are not
as confning as formerly. Underskirts are
so made that they will hang well with
out the aid of ''tie-backs," and are al.
lowed to fall il natural easy folds. Some
sort of support is necessary to distend
the skirts of heavy, clinging winter
dresses, so small hoops are making their
app arance. They are as yet narrow and
not very long, but they encircle the fig,
ure with tapes across the front. For
those to whom this style is Objectionable
are shown bustles very similar to those
last in vogue. Still another method of
supporting the drapery is by means of a
skirt founced with crinoline, or by a
quilted satin petticoat, in which are run
whHlebOnes or wires.
The polonaise will probably not remain
popular much longer. Basoues with
trimmed skirts are at present the most
usual way of making walking dresses, By
trimmed skirt is meant an underskirt
apon which the overdress or upper dra-
peries are secured, thus making but one
garment out of two. Plain skirts are
not as much worn as in the fall; but
where the material is rich, the trimming
is very narrow.
A great deal of ingenuity is expended
apon front breadths of handsome dresses,
and the drapery is so arranged as to dis
play this part of the dress. Tabliers CON-
posed entirely of jet or passementerie are
very effective. Successive horizontal
rows of plisse are used, and long box
plaits extending from waist to hem, with
jet or brocade showing between each,
make a popular garniture for tabliers
Shirring is also extensively used for this
purpose. An elegant new material,
which has just made its appearance. is
being adapt, d for tablier ornamentation
as well as for trimming other parts of
the costume. 1t is silk in which jet
beads are woven in stripes, or in pat
tern covering the entire surface. 1t is
very heavy and should be sparingly
used.
Cloth suits are much used for street
wear, and are always plainly made. The
underskirt unless entirely of corduroy,
should not be left plain, but ornamented
with deep flounce. either side or box
plated, or with three plaits of the cloth
alternating with one Of corduroy. The
overskirt is plain and round, and is
@lraped high on the sides by means of
stitched straps. The only ornamental
ton is several rows of machine stitching
ofa different color. The basque is usu-
ally in some coat form with full skirt,
made double breasted, with a seam in
the center 1f the front. The sleeves
should always be in coat shape, with no
cuff or ornamcntation of any kind except
Two buttons placed near the wrist; with
mock button-holes, which are not simu-
lated with silk or satin piping, but are
regularl worked and left uncut. The
long coat, or redingote, is model much
used for making up costumes Of cameFs
hair and silk, which are more dressy than
the cloth suits.
EVENING DRESSES.
Ball dresses for the winter are very e1e-
CANT in design, and are always of two or
more materials. Brocaded silk, satin
and velvet, and plain and Lyons satin
are all used in preference to gros-grain.
Pointed basques only a finger long on the
fps, with square or heart-shaped neck,
are much employed for evening dresses
Trains, when any are worn, are long and
flowing, in the court train style, and are
never trimmed except with very mar
row Aounce. In some the back breadth
i. of brocade, with satin breadths on
rither side. Pannier drapery is affected
in evening dresses as well as in others.
aud is usually supplied by shirred scarfs
passing over the hips, which end in a
large bow behind, or are secured under
The end of the basque. An entirely new
fashion is that of trimming evening dress
es with bands of feathers.
All dresses fos dancing are made as
short in the back as in front. The most
elegant brocades and satins are being
made up in this way, after French mod
els. The eorsage is not decollete, but
opens just at the throat, and the sleeves
reach to the elbow, or a little below it,
ending in rufie. In having an evening
dress made, some ladies have copied a
figure from a picture in the time Of Louis
XIV or XIV. The costumes of Marie
Arithmetic and the Duchess of Devon.