The Hawaiian gazette., 1879-09-17
Letter from souIh africa.
oArE rOwx. South Africa, june 27, 1877

line oil my voyage thher, which, as several interest
ing islands touched at route, may be fitting
introduction to what will follow and other matters
herein related may tend somewhat to account for
several of the opinions which have formed regard
ing the very much mismanaged colonies Of Britain
situate in South Africa.
There are two rival lines of steamers sailing be-
tween England and South Africa Cape Town being
the first port of call, from whence they proceed on
ward around the coast far Zanzibar on the East
Coast, and return by the SAME route Each line has
fortnightly departure from England. and from
Cape Town for England, thus giving weekly mail
service to and fro The steamers Of the Donald Cur
RE line, which alternate in their sailings with the
steamers of the other line, sail from London and call
Dartmouth to embark mails and such passengers
wish to avoid the trip down the English Channel,
which occupies two days of sometimes disagreeable
westher. The steamers of the Union line sail from
Southampton, and call at Plymouth for similar
purpose SO that Dartmouth and mouth are the
ports Of departure for the of the South Ar
mail service. Only classes of passengers are
carried in the steamers viz, Chief cabin and Fore
cabin the former pay f2l. los (s575 5O) the latter
Ell (SlO5-OO) the principle is the same in both
cabins, and they differ only in degree of style and
quality.
AS may be supposed the name led me to take pas
sage by the Donald Curre line, and l sailed from
London one fine Spring morning at daylight, having
evening,
all night. On getting around the deck in the morn-
ing, was somewhat surprised observe that every
officer and man belonging TO the steamer were Eng
llsh most of them natives of London the passen-
gers, OF whom there were about three hundred were
also with two OF thee exceptions natives of Eng
land, and mostly from the Southern counties fully
one half Of these were young going out to join
the volunteer corps at Natal TO fight the Zulus for
the patry wages of S. (S.25i per day. out of which
they would have to Pay for their provisions, which,
n=iv nd
quality. What chance such inexperienced and timid
striplings, most of them Were could have with
the strong and fearless warriors of Ceewayo is past
my comprehension; but l have well grounded
opinion that 10 die away will be their fate if
placed in trout Of the enemy. Undoubtedly a great
deal of the blundering and cowardce which have
marked the proceedings of English leaders and Eng
lih regiments in this Zulu campaign are due to the
ineicency of just such Englishmen as formed the
greater part of my fellow passengers. In subse-
quent letter shall again allude to this matter when
try to account for the continued British disasters in
the Zulu war. and th" unrghteous and overbearing
conduct Of English officials, both civil aud military
toward the Zulu king and his people.
1t was beautiful Spring day when we entered the
English Channel the atmosphere clear that
the coasts Of France aud England were distinctly
visible, the towns and landscapes of the English
coast passed in rapid review, until early on the
morning Of the third day out, we arrived in Dart
mouth harbor; and after the anchor was dropped
the passengers spent the day shore until p. m ,
the advertised date Of departure. The harbor of
Dartmouth is very beautiful sheet of water sur
rounded by cliffs and hills of considerable elevation
and Is thoroughly protected from the waves Of the
English Channel it is probably the finest and most
easily accessible harbor in England. The town of
Dartmouth, at the head of the herbor, and at the
mouth of the river Dart. contains a population of
about ten thousand and rises in terraces on one o6
the least abrupt Of the hills from the waters edge
where ara constructed extensive wharves and piers
From the steamers deck, at the anchorage. COM
manding view of the and its environs is obtain
ed. and the eye delights to linger the fantastic and
pTeensions villas that nestle in all directions among
the shrubbery and flowers that cothe their rock.
bound gardens. Many Of the streets, and most of
the long winding walks, are hewn out of the solid
rock, and large proportion Of the population is of
the well-to-do class, being. for the greater part
retired army and naval officers, with their families
The entire stretch of forming the harbor is
calm as mill pond, and extends inland about four
miles, with an average width of nearly mile mar.
rowing however to quarter of mile at the entrance
which is defended by fortfcations The surface of
the water dotei all with small boats of va
rious kinds most of which contained pleasure parties
of ladies and gentlemen small steam launches were
also seen pulling amongst the varied craft and, take
the scene altogether, it lie one of great beauty
nature and art SO beautifully blended and com
bined in Dartmouth and its surroundings that my
memory and Imagination must ever retain the i'm
preston. After stroll around the town and the
varied promenades Of its suburbs, we hastened on
board the steamer at the hour appointed, when we
proceeded again on IT southern voyage there
after the shores of Old England seen by many
of us for the last time, and quickly lost in the
evening haze which is SO common in the English
Channel.
After five days passage from Dartmouth we came
IN sight OF the most nortbery of the Madeira islands
and as we passed close to the land way to the
port OF Funchall, we looked upon the scenery with
feeling Of disappointment; bare and tame looking
landscapes characterize most Of the country visible
from the vessel, no trees are seen, and only field
here aud there we could discover roads or paths
and the houses of the poorest description there
is apparently good deal of table land which. on
the occasion of our visit, was partly obscured in
cloud and mist. As neared the port of Funchall.
the scenery seemed to improve somewhat, and we
perceived vineyards on the heights above the town
but neither Funchall its called harbor (which
is an open roadstead) have much beauty, and, even
the little beauty that is from the sea- dimnshes
On q closer approach. The steamer dropped her
anchor of Funchall about half mile from the Shore
and we took the opportunity to stroll around the
town for few hours. The Portuguese boatmen
charge what they get but a number of us ioin-
ed together and hired boat to take us ashore and
back for stated sum amounting to about 2s. or 80
cts. TO each person. On reaching the landing which
is simply beach, met large crowds of the Portu-
guese natives, male and female, the latter mostly of
questionable character; after making our way
through the crowd, entered the town and engaged
Portuguese guide to conduct us through the town,
and lead us to the various places of interest. Our
guide, by sundry short cuts down alleys and
through narrow streete, toItuous windings, and
several indescribable paths. took us first to the
cathedral, and afterwards to a park planted with
sycamore trees the latter being worth the visit as
the trees are artistiealy planted along the avenues
which run at right angles through the park. For a
time enjoyed the delicious shade as the sun had
nearly approached the meridian. This park would |
have peculiar beauty were it properly attended to
but aZness and carelessness evidently withheld the
necessary labor. Portuguese soldiers and policemen
lounge listessly, smoking cigarettes, or drinking
new and cheap wine in the saloons loosely attired
abandoned women we the streets more COM
monty than ladies, and it is only the arrival of a |
foreign passenger steamer that there is much stir in
the town, or las was inforned) any appearance of
trade. There few industries in Funchall, |
which l presume peculiar to it viz. Factories
for making wickerwork, such as easy chairs |
baskets &c. Of neat and convenient shapes; work |
shops for the manufacture of feather flowers of rare
beauty and in close imitation of Nature and cabinet
shops having as speciality the contraction of |
writing desks, work boxes and various articles of |
like nature artisticaly inlaid with various kinds of
richly colored wood, &C. These articles are aIlyery
finely finished and, quality considered, are sold at
very low prices. Few passengers, who touch at |
Funchall, go away without purchasing some of the |
above articles, which well adapted for presents
for friends. During the few hours stay in Madeira
there is not much opportunity for seeing the manu-.
facure of wine; but doubt wine making, and the |
industries l have named, comprise the bulk of |
Madeiras enterprise and trade. The inhabitants are
all of Portuguese descent and of tawpy brown
color, not much lighter than Hawaiian natives but |
have better, or, at least, classical features |
Most of the women have airy politeness and |
pleasant manner, while their voices are soft and /
musical, and their faces expand into smiles indca-
tive of amiabls dispositions. No white English |
tspr araI . H..