Gloucester County Democrat. (Woodbury, N.J.) 1878-1932, 1879-09-09
Fashions of the Season.

Among the new dress goods in silk
and wool mixtures are found some
novelties in the form of welted striped
lengthwise the goods, producing cor
whose ground is either gendarme blue,
bronze, plum, dark green, brown, or
black, bright silk threads produce a
tiowered design in .jardiniere effects, the
figures being for the most part small set
designs. This stuff is intended for the
paniers, back draperies, cuffs, revers,
and collars of costumes whose under
skirts, sleeves, and minor parts are COM
posed of self-colored, all-wool, weIted
striped goods of tints and shades CORE
spending with the grounds of the figured
goods. In the plain goods intended for
the underskirts the welted stripes are
also crosswise the goods
Other fancy silk and wool mixtures
have narrow alternate stripes of plain
wool and figured silk, the silk stripes in
small bright arabesque or armure de
signs. Other striped cloths have parti-
colored grounds of bronze, French gray,
cherry, garnet, peacock, gendarme aud
navy blues, and shades Of stone and
GrdotSe or slate color.
Plaid jacquard is a genuine novelty,
the large plaids being produced in a
variety Of novel and striking designs
and sharply contrasting colors woven in
a jacquard loom, and, while they imi-
tate the size and colors of tartans, are
very unlike them. Broken blocks,
squares, and dashes of color are pro
duced in the midst of the wool mixtures
by bright threads of silk thrown in, the
predominant tints being old gold, sap
phire and turquoise blues, cherry and
other shades Of red, and bright shades of
green on dark grounds.
In plain all-wool goods, in addition to
the camel's hair goods, cloths, fiar nels
and cashmeres of last winter, we are
shown new material called toile de
saasglier. This is plain woven, but has
a rough surface, and resembles bunting
made sufficiently heavy to serve for warm
winter dresses.
The ready-made suits, thousands Of
which are sold every season and sent all
over the world, are shown this fall in
dark cloth colors in the new shades Of
amaranth, Rembrandt green, gendarme
or ducks breast and navy blues, dauphin
and dark French grays, Burgoyne and
golden browns and black, with garni-
lures and parts of the costumes of trim
ming satins, plain, plaided or striped,
silk plush. jacquard corduroys or welted
stripes, wide wooden braids and Scotch
and jacquard plaids, or other trimming
goods of silk and wool mixtures similar
to those described above.
The greater part of these suits are
made up in the form of a coat BASQUE.
with pointed waistcoat in front and u
position back, curved shorter on the
hips. When the basque has not a waist
coat it is given stomacher like plas-
tron, which is pointed below the waist.
and consists of two revers sewed together
down the middle, extending from the
neck down and tapering gradually na--
ROVER to the waist. Under this plastron
waistcoat or stomacher the basque is
fastened with small fiat buttons. The
plastron may be either of plain cloth or
satin, or it may be covered with parallel
lines of zigzag braid set on crosswise in
points. The position backs are some
times pointed, but oftener square, and are
given flat boX-plaits beaded with fancy
buttons. The skirts are short, trimmed
with the usual f1ounce or f1ounces, in the
plaitings. Paniers appear on many of
LlNSC ohli u, III SEAL Is ttEIstIlStu ~ produce
panier effects. Wide bells are seen on
many of the basques, beginning in the
seam under the arms and fastening in
front. Other basques are half double
breasted. and others again have surplice
plaits crg athers in front, and blouse eff
fec,s are also popular in basques, fasten-
ing down with three-inch wide belts. to
which the side pocket is attached. The
buttons on the waistcoats are smaller
than those on other parts OF the costume.
Few outside pockets are seen, but some
times a long square or pear-shaped ap-
pendage of this kind is attached to the
lower edge of basque. and made very
effective with trimmings. Plaid silks
and silk plush Of the same shade as the
wool material of the dress, and self
colored jacquard corduroys. also of the
shade of the wooden stuff, are used for
trimming cashmeres, toilc deS Indies.
camel's hair and toize de sdngtier COS
tunes. These ready-made suits range in
price all the way from $40 TO S75 and
800.
Large and small bonnets, the first very
large and the second very small, are seen
among the importations Of millinery
goods. The large bonnets are either
pokes will. close sides, directoire bon