The daily gazette., 1879-09-24
NOVELTIES IN cos UMEs AND
BONNETS.
PHILADELpHIA, September 20.

BONNETS.
PHILADELPHIA,S September 20.
To appeal to the estbetic element IN
wOmanly natures and to crafty az well
the innate sense Of practical utility Is no
easy matter, and yet this result is accom-
plishsd in the arrangement Of each and
every department In tho Grand Depot,
where ali articles are displayed In such
manner as to indicate the artistic genius
and cultivated taste of the presiding or
| contrOii & power.
1t il iu,ieed q triumph to call forth
such r, mark as this.
"There are decidedly more attractions
here In the Grand Depot than at the
Centennial Buildi ogs, with the Exhibi-
ton and State Fair combined. And
now they have improved this place
since ! visited Phiisdelphia in the
through the immense establishment
from the Chestnut street entrance on TO
the China Department near the Market
street door.
To fully appreciate and comprehend
the extent of the changes IN and addi-
tons to the Grand Depot, one must visit
the house and see the recent, erected
ga alleries and new departments, which
will he hni she'd and in perfect working
trade.
Novelties are now being received
daily, and among them are some most
charming hats aud bOnnets and exquisite Q
costumes intended for patterns or to fill
special orders of private customers, who
generally send III measures and consult
with the lady in charge of this depart
tlre of ths buyer to make the season able
European selections.
ELEGANT ROBES.
Among the costumes are maay deserv.
ing notice. A rich costume Is combina.
lion of maroon satin and an embO sed
f,bric In Moorish color,ngs. the trained
skirt Is trimmed with plxitings, ,puffs aud
bands. while tho back and front OF cor
,age, IN deep points, serve as founda
tions for fall Uf drapery arranged from
the curves of the prints in front Of wa's,
Of the rich brOcade. These side piece,
are most graceful and rretty, falling a
they do in curves over the hips and
down the front, ending in The train
which Is very elegant, The back ceLtrt
rxquisitely draped. The apron front u
he maroon silk Is covered with bead
embroidery In designs outlined by /,
silken cord and flushed with rich firing,
Of tassels. The entire costume Is very
elegant and effective.
An exceedingly rich GARMENTS a sat.l
and b ocade combination in bldck, III,
jupon being of the satin, while the uppe
portion of the costume u Of the blacl
silk brocaded In ostrich plumes, whicl
gracefully fall one over the other.
Some stylish little carmen have un
der. kirts tiimmed in various pretty de
Signs IN shirts, plaits and ruff1es, witt
pIhn Gamers hair polonaises, loope,
gracefully, and secured with ribbons
bows and loops. Upon blatk dresses
: cOral-iet ornament, Jet trimmings aDt
bead decOrat' Ons are most elaborated,
used and to great advantage.
. HATS AND BoNNETs.
The head coverings of this season ar,
particularly becoming and jaunty; ther
is nothing loud or pronounced abou
them, ami generally a style can be wOrl
by aln ost any one by making regula
tons in regard to size.
An odd conceit is one of Virot's, il
simple corOnet shape, covered in fold
about the Drim with OLD gold satin, end
ing In shawl points over the back of tn
head, these points being finished witt
black thread lace, while about the from
of brim is a fringe of amber beads. A
lace covering Is upon the crown, ant
over the scarf ends Of the back drOoI
two ostrich plumes, while rich Brazilian
beetles rest in varions places over tn
surface.
An evening hat of tinged white ssti
Is very simple and yet intricate in tn
arrangement of its trimmings. The froI
is q coronet, composed of ostrich featl
ers and half-dozen or more exquisItel
colored humming birds. Golden serpent
an1 pins with rich ball heads hold tn
folds OF the trimming In place on tn
Z hat.
A most novel bonnet is of peculia
shape, scooped font and back an
filled in With loops and bows The from
is finished with gold shirrings, garnishe'
with prlsma,ic threads and iridescen
beads Rich ostricl, plumes fall over tb
v face and hair, ana flies,or beaded butter
!. flies, a,e piercyd by golden arrows, an
: hold the rich laces IN place. The newes
: features Of the bonDets are the strng'
!. which are double, four inches wide, an
: finished at the edges with fringes, and
row of Breton or thread lace.
Pompadour hats are not 30 large as Il
: last season, but their size can be regr
lated by the face of the wearer. A re
y specimen of drab has crown surrounds
by handsome ostrich plumes and fe'
knors of ribbons the same color at th
side. The upturned brim Is faced wit
!, blue sEirred satin antique, and thre
handsome blue plumes rest on the hal
and fall over the right ear, with eiegap