Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1879-06-02
NEW FORK FASHIONS FOR SPRING.
Art Costumes and Ordinary S0us.
mer Ostumes-(stOves and IkOSherys
Oirn CoTrespoIsdent.l ]


tFrom Our OWn co7respondent.l
New YORK, May 81, 1879.
There is nothing that is so striking in the
fashions OF the present season, as the strong in
fusion OF color and great variety OF STYLE The
dark uniformity OF street dress has disappeared
ard the mosi striking apd bizarre combinations
are inGulged IN, especially by young women
whom this country are the almost exclusive
representatives OF the whims or the passing
moment, Lor Is the result unpleaSing,-at least,
to the eye. Perhaps we have grown tired or
the eternal black ana neutral tints, perhaps
the lives of,too many have been shaded OF late
years, In GafH AID neutral colors. Whatever
lhe reason, the admiNture OF light and bright
.lbIs upon tie streets aad In public gatherings
Is cbeerT & and even II the effect from strictly
artstic point of view is a little outre. Yet as
spot OF color upon stone gray side walk it is
em,nenfly successful.
Americans a. a ration run too much 70 Crays
and Orowns ard blacks. Doubtless n il a ten
dency AT once safe and economical a sort OF
barbor OF refuge for slim purses aud refine
tastes. But II is question II the constant con-
temptation cf tie dark and neutral Side OF life
does not sadden IL and refine away the vital
hold as well as the external vulgarity.
American NCmen are generally as gray aud
sallow looking as their clothes. It Is a relief
TO find one who dares 10 be red and healthy and
IL such an one makes her appearance in purple
and old gold the reactionary excitement She
creates is a stimulus worth bottles OF pho3-
pilates and pounds OF "brainr or ''nerven food.
HIGH ART AND HIGH FASHION.
There are certain broad lines or distinction,
however, which are gradually making them.
selves apparent In the dress OF the period,
which are not al all visible 10 the superficial
it is a very complex and complicated system or
wheels working within wheels, and having
many forms and modes or expression. We have
to-day American fashion which turns Its models
out by the millions, and is rapidly covering
the same ground IN Europe that it does In this
country. We have, also. Independent fashion,
the outgTowth OF sort OF Bohemian art which
does as Ii pleases, which wears convenient short
walking dresses, loose jackets, many pockets,
rough and ready hats, and on occasions steps
out like picture OF Holbeins, Gainsborougn's,
Sir Joshua Reynolds, or a miniature beauty
from the court OF Marie Antolnette. The Eng
lish representatives or this class belong TO q
country. They are the followers and patrons
OF modern art. They do vast amounts Of crewel
work. after the patterns OF the Kensington Art
school, and they consider olive greens and
browns the only shades OF color &c for wear.
The gendarme or peacock blue has come to the
rescue OF this class. IL is an 'art" color. 1t is
permitted entrance into the charmed circle.
and lights it up with wonderful force and
beauty.
High fashion does not find the Bohemian mix
ture or the Bohemian tendencies towards free
dom ard convenience, TO its liking. But it will
not be behind the cdnaile, either In STYLE or
appreciation OF art. Instead OF meandering In
wooo untS, over cheese cloth, and coarse, un-
pleacned sheeung, it employs famous French
aftistS 10 design the exclusive models for
oilsilldI dDu udflnOulOuS costumes. ana IL
pears In these, serenely and bllssfuliy conscious
or being robed in a creation fashioned ey.
pressly, not TO be had By any other mortal, and
therefore as near an approach TO that angelic
robe, which is said TO be the outgrowJh OF our
loves, and which is to be part OF the reward or q
life or good deeds 10 this world.
FRENCH ART COSTUMES.
The new departure made by A. T. Stewart AZ
Co. is really decided innovation. and will
doubtless have to be followed In time by other
leading houses. The importation of very rich,
attended by more or less OF disadvantage In
the nrst place il is opposed, entirely, TO the
habits OF French manufacturers. They never
make up, or exhibit In their own show rooms
the rich styles for whole season, or their very
costliest and most original styles, at all except
as they are finished and put on view for a day
or two before being sent away. Their best
styles are Individual and made to order not
turned out in,the gross.
The costly models which the great houses OF
New York city have been In the habit OF receiv-
Ing In the spring were necessarily made up n
Tie winter, ard risa Uersd the models for winter
Ia the summer This not only made them ap-
but the inevitable handling and the exhibition
MADE OF them 10 many persons before finding Q
purchaser made them appear common, so that
rifce, and were simply valuable as patterns
from which other costumes could be made
THIS IL VIII De easily seen was a very wasteful
Even as models ladies cared little for them be-
cause they could not be exclusive, and were not
suniciently recent fndividualized or distinctive
10 render them especially desirable. Gotten up
In the bunch, and at time when there IA 4
dearth, rather than an excess of ideas they
naturally contained "reminiscences OF past sea-
willing and able TO pay extraordinary prices for
their costumes begin now TO demand something
peter than this, and this demand has oeen met
py the employment OF French artists OF &C.
knowledged reputation, who produce ORIGINAL
water color designs TO each one OF which IneIr
names are attached, and whose reputation
and completeness OF the work.
certain number OF these designs are sent
over Mesn every month, and represent most
graceful, approved, or original ideas In the
different classes Of costume OCCASIONALLY there
Is morning dress, but usually these tOilettee
are too simple for elaborate representation, ana
ing OF street. dinner and evening dresseS
The color1ng and detail Is wonderful Every
minutia Of trimming. jewelry, flower garnirure,
that the copy can be strictly Followed without
any deviation, II the modiste Is not artist
enough TO vary with safety. These exclusive
TONERS, and In carrying them out an the work
Is executed by hand. the most careful experts
being employed In this department Ladies
dresses, or sending their orders abroad are very
much pleased with the results OF this new
method. The costumes are found 70 be su-
Is less than that OF imported dresses, though or
course IT depends somewhat upon the exclusive
ness OF the design, some ladies preferTing to nav
for the painting outright rather than have IL
seen or used thereafter
A magnificent princess dress made after one
or these models was executed In Gend'arme
blue brocade, striped with hair lines OF amber,
black, tinted white and gold, set close together
with q small figure upon the solid ground be.
tween. Turned back from the front was q
triple collar, and vest OF amber satin, giving
the effect Of q long caSaque cut-away, and hav-
ing three reuers at the throat and below the
line OF the waist each finished with an edgtng OF
real Mechlin lace, or which the Bret0nne Is the
imitation. The train was Serpentine and inter.
W1ned with fold OF the satin, and the amber,
color also reappeared In the intricate and shell
like fiouncing, not deep but very elegantly nm
ished, which completed the bottom OF the skirt.
This design is only suited to tall figures and is
Well adapted TO the rich narrow striped grena-
dimes broca0ed and showing satin or velvet
lines, which are among The most beautiful
fabrics or the season. Several very pretty de-
signs are for short costumes. Some for the
mountains, Others for summer ball dresses for
young ladies.
A very rich black carriage toilette lately Inn
ported consists OF Princesse .dress with sides
OF black satin, ana front and train OF very
beautiful black grenadine, brocaded In feather
patterns. This was caught here and there with
taSselled ornaments made OF dark iredescent
beads, which also formed bands used as strars
at the sides. The mantle was a large one with
lQd fl1a .baf fko