The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-09-19

A new neckerchief is square of white
India muslin, widely hemmed, worn tied
carelessly around the neck with dark
dresses, both in the house and street.
There are new silk neckerchiets OF the
rich Persian colors, covered all over, ex-
cept a narrow border, with closely woven
palm leaves. For cool mornings plain
silk kerchiefs are worn in cardinal red or
deep blue, and there are gay Scotch plaid
tartan silk squares for the same purpose.
For travelling and plain wraps the ul-
ster and the circular are equally popular.
listers outline the form, and have nelth-
er belt nor cape, and may be of plain
color, or else of the underlined plalds,
checks, and stripes shown in the English
homespun cloths; water-proofs are made
in these simple shapes, and are far less
burdensome than the great cloak and cape
formerly worn. The plaid twilled cloth
circulars retain the same simple shape,
and are often reversible, having solid
gray, blue or red on the wrong side.
The leaves of the sumacs, in their au-
tumn tints of claret and crimson and gold,
are fine material for wall bouquets. Re-
sembling ferns in their pinnatiied form,
they group well with them, and add bril-
lance to their delicate hues. Harper's
Bazar says they hang out their gorgeous
orihammes in rocky pastures and by bar
ren hillsides Just as summer visitors are
fastening homeward; and all the winter
after they have been nicely pressed
like the banners in old baronial halls,
they will lend glory and grandeur to
many a humble home.
September, according to fashions cal
endar, is the most important in the whole
year; important to all classes, all trades,
as well as to merchants and modistes, to
the humblest artisan and the brilliant in
ventor of color or shape. The whole
sale and retail merchants indulge in the
liveliest antici pations of an earlier, more
active, and prosperous season than they
have enjoyed for several years. Dealers
and orders far exceed those of last sea-
son. 1t is difficult to imagine new colors,
for every tint and shade has been eX-
| hausted. Still new names are announced,
such as Zulu, reddish brown, dauphin-
gray, having tint OF yellow; duck breast
blue, a more changing and brilliant
blue than the gendarme; amaranth, a
reddish purple; cjnaque, a golden copper
color, and acaiou, of the same color shad-
ing into mahogany red; Bougogne, a
plum color with violet tints; Japonicas,
peacock's breast, and toile de sanglier.
In addition to these new shades srld
colors, familiar colors reappear, such as
all warm wine tints, old gold, olives, and
other glowing hues. In wool fabrics
there is an enormous demand for satlnes
having a lustrous surface, and monte
cloth similar to the popular cotton goods
of the same names. These show broche
and rave arabesque designs, wherein the
brilliant colors in warp and woof blend
together in the most quiet and har-
monious manner. For instance, the
warp of some rich, dark color, as gar
net, conaque olive, brown or black
shows threads in the woof of mingled
white, bue-green, yellow, scarlet, blue
and purple. These appear in checks,
stripes, and give general chene effect.
Another novelty is the jacquard plaid,
which might be mistaken for the
regular tartan or cashmere plaid, but is
widely different i'll material. The
colors are quite as brilliant and the con-
trasts equally great, but the effects of
broken plaids, dice figures, square, bro
ken lines and dashes Of vivid colorings in
silk, threads of gold, scarlet, brilliant
blues, viyiche, a new name for old-fash-
ioned cherry and green, mark the differ
ence. These are also used for trimming
the jacquard corduroys and plaid silks OF
tartan colors. Armures of American
manufacture promise to be very popular
in blacl, and all manner of colOrs 1t is
limited that the passion for rough h-surtaced
goods is dying out in favor Of smoother
varieties, such as cashmeres and silk anc
wool mixtures. In the latter the variety
and quality are unsurpassed. Cashmere
de FInde returns this season with it,
shining long hairs on finer and softer
ground than that of last year. 1t also
appears in true Oriental colors, the plain
strange, dull Indian blue for the. under
skirt and in the warm, rich mingline
colors in palms Of tiny size, an arabesqut
chain broken by little lozcnge. The
dark ground shot with yellow floss Of
gold thread, and myriads of fine color:
are blended like the Indian designs of :
camel's hair shawl
A close examination of some of the
!, new silk and wool fabrics discloses a
many as from six to ten brilliant colors
all cunningly blended together in one
perhaps softened, mellow shade. Ye
there will be visible countless little fan
A tastic shapes in exquisite ferns, frond
!, and curling leaves. Chameleon silks ar
= revived in richest dyes, in such contrast
: as olive and gold, dark blue and gold
: garnet and old gold, garnet and blue
e bronze green and blue, pomegranate pin
e and silver gray, brown and ducks breast
blue, dark green and gold. There ar
s also black grounds on which are brillian
! colors. One style shows satin stripe
: alternating with stripe of the change
n able silk. These two styles are som'
q times combined in one costume. Olh(
n new silks for autumn wear have brocade
o stripes of three contrasting tint