The Leavenworth weekly times., 1879-05-22
THE STYLES.

- H = Il
hat Is What the Ladies iearn for.
and That Is What Our New York .
Correspondent Dishes Up for Them.
special Correspondence ofthe Inter-OceaE.I
NEW YORK, May ll-To be fashionable
he must be picturesque, and in struggling
or the picturesque it takes woman Of
teen artistic perceptions, and a not over
stimate of her own personal charms, to
lvoid being grotesque.
Take, for instance, bright, piqusn: face,
and little straight figure, set II by COS
ume which promises to be tn rage, and
ior which the material IL imported In pat
.erns selling at $50. The ground IL CT
satin, IN mustard green, gend'arme blue, or
the different shades Of tiel, covered with
tinv polka dots of another color, in silk;
sufficient quantity of this is allowed FOR the
overskirt and waist, or draperies; the re-
painder comes 10 Old. fashioned chanee=bl-
silk Of the two tints, for the underskirt and |
trimmings Or. for the upper part. comes
a satin heavy as tapestry. tue ground tints
dark and almost concealed by clusters Of
crimson moss rose buds, tiny blue forget |
me-nots. miniature convolyuii. or knots Of |
hare bells; with this comes the plain siik |
or satin.
The lowered satin il then made up iu.o |
a round waist Of the kind many years ago
called 'surplice' and still to be seen in the
dsguerreotypes OF grandmothers and great
aunts. The waist is very short Of course,
and cut into long, narrow V that reaches
10 the belt; this ia edged on the inner side
by fine plaitings Of lace that lap over, fill
ing The space until the neck is reached; on
the outer edge is pulled piece OF the ma
terIal shirreG down at intervals, once Al the
neck. again at the termination OF the waist,
which is concealed by soft sash belt, start
ing from the sides about three inches under
the arm, and coming down TO point In
front fastened by buckle OF brilliants.
The skirt proper is shirred, Gnely pulled,
or covered with plaitings up the front and
rouud the edge Of the skirt; bu. il is the
drspery that impsrts the picturesque elect
This is composed of two long, straight
widths OF the goods sewn together, and
starting from either side of the buckle, be-
ing closely gathered. under the belt; tn
stuff is brought dowE' in the front, curved
suddenly over the sides, and meeting at the
back, forms the drapery, terminating Tor
the house in a train, or for the street
in short back, and being much more pro-
nounced int the latter, and it imparts
shepherdess sir.
To carry out the boutfAnt effect
THE BUsTLE
has been brought into re4uisition; though
80 modified in form that il classes rather
with the instruments of punishment Used
in modern prisons and ssylums, than those
of the Spanish inquisitiop. with which il
used to be compared.
These busiles are being manufactured by
the thousands, and in their present shape
come with wire and crinoline tops, ten
inches in length. and made as much longer
a. desirable by founces Of crino. he, thirty
eight inches being the extreme. The sha ape
is not so exaggerated as before, and the
article itself is rendered immovable by
s1ndry straps and belts that prevent the
ridiculous cont e.remps common TO their
las, appearance. Hip paniers are also
worn /; indeed, when a woman is fashiopa-
bly, dressed she Is pretty wel1 fenced in.
These paniers are made entirely OF crino-
line, laid in fine close plaits or sowed into
the dress.
With these Costumes are worn hats with
wide, A .ring brims, suddenly bent 10 Gi.
rectIy in front, somewhat in imitation of
the Mary Stuart, and trimmed with soft,
plumy tips, old fashioned buckles, snd
filmy lace, always real and as fire as a
dress would require. The gloves of course
hsrmopize with the costume in color, and
the bottines are made Of the dress goods,
| tipped with soft kid and buttoDed with
| hrilliants.
Such an outfit must be made By work
people artists in their own line, aud prop
erly worn by pretty woman; made by an
ordinary moGiste, and donned by stout or
| ill-shaped woman, the effect il the came a.
that produced by highly decorated per-
ambulstiug tub.
is the fashionable color, with a misleading
name, being applied to every sh ade Of drab,
even 10 those bordering on brown; these
tints come in thin soft woolen materials,
but especially in mummy and coachmsns
cloths, and also form the bases for mixed
and mosaic goods which are used for
street suits, and are very plainly made Al.
ways short generally with a walking Jack
ct, piped with silk and SATIN, or, the lcket
| finished with collar and cuffs of velvet, and
the skirts simply stitched with silk in four
or five rows
Dressmakers prophssy that outside wraps
will be little worn this sumn er; sacque-
are entirely passed, and at present mantil-
Las, with long tab fronts, short backs and
simulated sleeves, are "the thing" black
siik the material most used, and trimmings
J French lace fringes ard satin maintain
9 their pc ularity.
Silks, with half-inch stripes, in contrast,
ng colors, 4 = in market, but expensive, as
hey are Ii, ,de much heavier than IL
.ormer years snd generally finely ribbed.
Grensdine Will be a standard favorite
md CONES ont in a variety Of new styles
and colu ola -tions. O1s OF the most notice
able a. vs. stripe of delicate pink velvet
embrOii red with blue forget me nots next
to str pc OF the most gsuzy material in
white. Another, s'mi' ar in stvle, presents
every 81 sde of rcd. from the flush pink tt
dregs-of wine, go eaquisitely combined that
perfect harmony re-ults. This same mate
rial also comes ir self colors and is trimmed
with Fresere lace to match in tint.
Boutonnier es demand psnsies or butter
cups. "CRIss"