The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-10-04

ing the draperies in place, is an embroi-
dered band trimmed with lace. The
square train is composed of two breadths
Of goods, which are draped as far as the
ankle and then sewed together. The
draped part has band of embroidered
goods up the sides, and over the train in
the center are many loops of mOss-colored
and red satin ribbons, in the shades of
the embroidery. Around the skirt, from
the sides of the apron, is plated
satin founce, surmounted by an embroi-
dered band. An embroidered band with
lace is around the hips, over the place
where the skirt is joined to the waist, and
terminates at the point of the pastron
under the loops of ribbon, matching
those on the skirt. The duchess sleeves
are trimmed with satin plating, an en-
broidered band, lace and satin loops.
A suit for indoor wear may be OF
bronze-colored woolen goods, with bias
stripes in old-gold color. The skirt is
wholly plated in the Scotch style, with
hollow plaits in front. The jacket is OF
the same goods. The back and front
pieces of the jacket are so cut that the
stripes 60 in contrary directions. In front
is a plain band of goods. Around the
hips is byonze-colored cachemire scarf,
closing on the left side under metal
ornament. The sleeves are bias. An old
gold-colored surat scarf forms tichu
around the neck The sleeves have the
same kind of trimming. The suit is
trimmed with bows of old-gold-colored
ribbon. The muslin cap to be worn with
this suit is mounted on stiff tulle. 1t is
trimmed with muslin ruching and satin
ribbon bows.
STRIKING NOVELTIES.
The varieties of STYLES for the season
are numberlcss and beautiful. First in
point of costliness and beauty are the
new silks in cashmere effects in Persian
colors, with shot or changeable grounds.
These come also in stripes, polka dots,
palm leaf, and other Oriental designs.
The colors for day wear are rich tones of
Egyptian fed, yellow, olive, invisible
greens, and rich tones of dark and me-
dunn blues, the mingling Of various col
ors so managed as to produce scherness
of effect that is very French, medieval
and artistic. On some of the shot
grounds appear the rich old-fashioned
colors and designs of the Louis XHI1I pc
rIiod, producing soheer tones by the ming
ing Oh ...cn pure shades of color. Even
Ing shades are cream, pale blue rose, blue,
old gold and sulphur color, in similar
changeable effects, mixtures and designs.
Among silk and wool novelty mixtures
a class Of goods of rare and original
character is encountered. Except for
that peculiar stamp of high fashion which
France imprints upon all her textile pro-
ductions, one might take the rich fabrics
on the counters for the stuffs of Persia
and other Asiatic lands. The palm-leaf
pattern crops out everywhere. Oriental
ideas prevail, even in the stripes of con-
trasting colors, showing the combinations
of the kaleidoscope in one line, and the
satin serge or monte or snakeskin effects
in the alternating stripes. Most of these
French India cashmeres, however, are not
striped. They show a mingling of rich
colors in Oriental, Egyptian, ancient
Greek, or Roman, or medieval Louis
XIII designs, with chameleon effects pro
duced in the weaving. They are intend
ed for parts of costumes, and must be
sparingly used to produce the best effects
Many of them are in brocaded designs Of
uncut wool velvet on satin surfaces, pro
ducing the ever-recurring chameleon ef-
feet produced in nearly all dress and mil
linery goods of this falls production.
For bridal robes, white brocaded and
damask satin is shown to be mingled
with striped or plain white satin. Taste
and individuality can be displayed anc
character shown in the selection of The
designs of even a bridal dress. The va
rietv to choose from is very large. There
are brocaded white satins for brida,
dresses, with shattered stars and crescent
and flower petals mingled together, anc
others with rosebuds and leaves; ant
: others still with jardiniere designs in pur
white, the effects produced by the pat
tern alone. Then there are small ant
large figures, and narrow and wild
!. stripes, 10 suit both tall and petit
4 brides.
/ A novelty in white underskirts is
i nainsook skirt trimmed with three mar
= row founces, with crooswise plaits. Oh
n the edge of each founce is very fin
y embroidery, gathered on, and from thi
{; falls a light guipure of Valencienne
" lace. The effects Of the transparent nair
is sock, with the embroidery and tn
guipure, which is still lighter, is yer
pretty.
n BoNNETs AND MILLINERY.
# In millinery there is jet reviva
# Quantities of both variegated and blac
/, Jet are seen on many hats and bonnet
l. and Jet and colored tinsel glitter a
a nauseam on every counter. The mo'
V notable miliners of Paris are represente
a in trimmed hats and bonnets, but thos
d of New York trimmers are noticeably /
is better taste. However, Josse, Tuve
is Annie and Georgette, Eugene, Virot an
1t Pariset all have bonnets on exhibition
e Tuvee sends monster this season in tn
d form of large square-crowned satin bol
a net, with plush brim lined with red We
80 vet, and trimmed with yellow strings ar