, 1879-05-18
TEE FASHIONS.

be gone three months
THE FASHIONS.
LONG VS.. SHORT sK1RTs.
!Yeso York sur.
The war between long and short skirts is over,
or, rather, has been transferred to the line which
divides the long basque from the pointed cor
sage with paniers. Tie reign OF the long skirt
is over, and the long basque is surely moribund.
By the middle or end OF summer all corsages
viii! be cut short on the hips. pointed back aud
front, md around the hips will swell ont the
boufant, pleatcd, Or gathered, fullness OF
draperies, intended to simulate the panfers OF
the reign Of Louis XVI. Large, stout women
dread this incoming fashion, but their fears ara
groundlcss. In the hands OF good modlste,
the panier draperics can be 50 arranged as
actually to conceal obesity better than the most
cunnlngly princess corsage or long basque
ever did. It must be remembered that the mar
row proportions Of the skirt are retained, and
that the hip and back draperiss are only varied
in their arrangement.
There are various notifications OF the panier,
but the general effect Is the same There is
bouffant tullness around the hips, rendering the
outline of them SO dubious that it is difficult,
at slight glance, to tell what are the actual
dimensions Of the wearer's person. The most
fashionable papier costumes are not only abort,
but they are very short. They show the entire
foot, instep, and all, the high French heelcd
boot or shoe peing displayed to the ankle. The
slipper, boot, or shoe becomes an object OF
special consideration in such toilet as matter
Of necessity, and the hosiery quite as much so.
The most exquisite Louis XIV. heeled slippers,
with one or two straps across the instep, with
Do"s anu oucAtes oo tne eaoe1 ato "oAA w
all occasions, except tor street wear. with
these short dresses. The boot is donned
~ c+rao+ rear on1v. the slinner or
10" euoe' WILL 40 ~ ~" ~. -
worn, over fau1t'ess nttlns SILK OF hsle thseau
clicked stockings, is de rlgeuer for carriage and
indoor wear. The corsage must ft like glove
o'et "A1aseA. .,,,s,a , .,.t,ao+ s aav ha o,,t
caue embro1oefy. lnls "a1steoat n1oS 10 cut
either in one or two points IN front, while the
back OF the eorsage may bs either pointed or
squaieu ~. ~, ,.;.a 49, hao- p dro,s,ies The nantor @
over nat-'glne o@,A uiapeliee. 80 pAa1.- -
draperies are then brought up and buncheo IN
large pleats or gathers under me ta1ls o. Inc
positions or tne long point IN me pack. oome1
times the scarf Of which the paniers are formed
are permitted to form part OF the back drape-
ries, after being caught up under the points OF
positions: when long basques are part OF
costume they are given painter ettect by loop
ing up the fullness of the side pieces back Of
the hips and ornanenttng them at that po1nt
with long cravat bows OF ribbon.
The greatest latitude is permitted In con.
trasts OF color and variety OF. material IN all
costumes Intended for home or carriage. Cur
oen, lawn tennis, croquet, and archery costumes
are made as bright and pfcturesques as possible
All colors and tones and tints, softly blended or
sharply contrasting, and made brighter and
gaYer still with gold braid and gold thread en-
brofdery, brought into play in making the but
terfly-like toilets that fit here and there over
the green velyetY lawn all along that park ut
America, the eastern shore Of the North River
between Yonkers and Peekskil1. But when the
wearcrs Of those gay Trianon robes take run
down to the city, nine out OF ten Of them, old
or young, matron or maiden, are attired 10 solid
black,-not mourning, but black,-the elegant,
dressy, black walking suit OF the American
-r,r,or xrftf it's 1arn inhOt fastened With lew