Daily Kennebec journal., 1879-08-27
NO. 2O6.
miscellaneous.
FASHIONS FOR LADIES.
AUTUMN MILLINERY. - .'HARPER's BA-
ZAR' DESCRIBES THE LATEST NOVEL
fIEs IN THE MILIINER's ART.


The first importations of autumn millin-
cry consist mainly of large bonnets, but,
as was the case last season, two extremes
are represented, and there are also small
close cottage shapes. The large bonnets
are pOkes with close sides, and large
brm projecting above the forehead. The
directoire bonnets with square crown and
faring brim are repeated, and there are
many rolled brims that have the Rabagas
effect once so popular; these frame the
face aretand similar to the halo brims that
have been found so generally becoming.
The small bonnets have scarcely anv brim,
and seem to consist of q square crown
that takes in the back of the head, and
covers only about half the top. These
shapes have been worn during the sum-
mer at Newport and Saratoga, and have
looked more like caps than dress bonnets,
as they are without face trimmings.
plumes. or flowers-being simply trimmed
with ribbon loops and bows. Other shapes
serve either as a bonnet or round hat.
All these quaint shapes are represented in
the softest silk plush, in fur beaver with
! pile an inch long, and in smooth French
felt. Sometimes two fabrics enter into one
bonnet, as for instance, the crown will be
smooth felt, while the brim is silk plush
or the roughfaced fur-beaver, or else the
crown will be smooth plush and the brim
of rough plush showing very deep pile.
a novelty this season is feather felt, with
loose shreds of feathers forming, the pile
of fine felt in white and pale gray these
will be used for dress bonnets. The poke,
the Carmen, the Directorre, turbans.
Derbys and Gainsborough hats are shown
in these fabrics. Sometimes the edge of
bonnets is finished with wire covered with
satin of the same shade.
New tints of cloth shades are shown in the
bonnets for winter. Rembrandt green
is very largely represented, and is dark
like myrtle green but with more blue in it.
The new red is amaranth, with purple shad-
ing that will make it popular with blondes.
while for brunettes is rieuT rouge, like
the dull scarlet known as Pompelian red.
Japonais is new green-blue, and there
are beautifully fine felt and plush bonnets
in the gendarme blue shade that was so
difficult to obtain last year; another artis-
tie blue is called Douanier. and all the
ducks breast shades that are both green
and blue are again represented. Another
shade that seems copied from the plumage
of birds is candque, "A golden brown.
Fancy feathers will be the leading fea-
ture of the trimmings of winters bonnets.
Merchants call these fancy feathers be-
cause of the fanciful shapes in which they
are mounted, but the feathers themselves
are of natural colors--not dyed-and are
plucked from rare birds These feather
ornaments combine many rich colors, and
are mounted in flat pieces that conform to
sl, Il, IS tI,,4, all
whole bird is placed in natural poise on
the front or side of the hat, but far oftener
one bird is made to do service for tNo hats
by being split in halves from bill to tail.
and having a spirited little top-knOt or
some tail feathers added The beautiful
brazilian humming birds that glisten like
Jewels, are more used than the larger birds.
The ponpons are in great VARIETY one
of the prettiest is the rose pompom, with
feather petals tipped with tnsel; among
these are black pompons and bronze with
gold edges also amaranth, plum, white
and blue. Natural gray long ostrich
plumes are imported. and all the new
shades are shown in the tips, demi-long
and Mercutio plumes, some of which are
tipped with Jet, or else they are waved
and curled like willow plumes. Feather
lringes and borders are made of the tiniest
tips closely curled. Odd little tufts of
white feathers like snow flakes are dotted
about in dark feather borders.
Dark cloth colors in the new shades of
amaranth, Rembrandt green. prune, Bur-
goyne, golden brown and ducks breast
blues are shown in the new wooden dresses
being prepared in the furnishing houses
for early fall wear The materials are
came's hair, cloth, cashmere, and new
fabric called toHe dc sangiier. which is
regularly woven, yet has rough surface,
and resembles bunting made sufficiently
heavy to serve for warm winter dresses.
The trimmings are satin of the same shade,
silk plush borders, many rows of machine
stitching, wide woOlen braids, anil gay
contrasting silks in Scotch plaids or in
most intricate mosaic designs.
The coat basque and pleated round skirt
will bs one of the stylish designs for
woolen dresses. The basque is short and
even all around, or else it curves shorter
on the hips. 1t may have vest, or a
square guimpe like plastron
make of the material used for trimming,
or else it may have the plastron vest,
which is pointed below the waist, and
really consists of two revers sewed to-
gether down the middle, extending from
the neck down, and curving narrower at
the waist line This may be of plain
cloth or of satin. or else it may be almost
covered with parallel lines of zigzag braid
placed crosswise in points.
Blouse effects will also be popular, and
these are now used to retain the pretty
shirring, and also to combine it with a vest
and with pleatings. For instance. one Of
the newest suggestions shown is Rem.
brandt green cashmere with scotch plaid
satin trimmings which has blouse basque
made in this way. The gay plaid satin is
laid on the basque lining straight down
each side of the front, each side two and
half inches broad. or at least extending
to the first dart. The wool material Is cut
the shape of the lining, and its front edges
are ,hirred crosswise in two clusters-one
at the waist line and the other at the top
of the dart-and are drawn hack to the
edge of the plaid satin vest; the fnllness
below the waist-line is pressed in fiat
pleats, and the lower edges are simply
piped. Tiny shaded buttons fasten the
vast Tho nlaid il apain infroflucpd bt.-