The Iola register. [volume] (Iola, Allen County, Kansas) 1875-1902, 1879-11-21
FASHION NOTES.
Very small bustles are worn.

very small pushes are worn.
| Little frogs are worn for brooches
now.
| Plush Is used to excess in Pari.
dresses.
Square breakfast caps are again in
vogue.
Black wraps are de rigueur fol
street costume.
Black cut jet beads now trim all
dressy black suits.
-Fichus will be more fashionable
than ever this winter.
The new lace fraises are made very
high, and frequently wired.
Normandy point is the most suitable
lace for muff trimming, on account Of
its durability.
Pale drab corduroy and wine OF
plum colored camel's hair makes q
warm and dreSsy street costume.
THE NEW HATS
maintain their character for originality
and brilliant and picturesque effect. The
same contrasts, however, exist in head
gear that are found in other depart
ments of ladies' clothing, and the most
fashionable milliners, instead of mixing
them all up together, now arrange them
with some attempt at classification. The
finest novelty of the season is undoubt-
edly what is known as the feather bon
net. This is composed almost wholly of
mounted feathers taken from the necks
of pheasants, at least half dozen of
which are required for one chapeau.
The heads and one or more wings are
used for ornaments, and the former are
grouped together or placed in q row,
like Blue Boards wives, and with saw
age sort of irony, which one would in-
agine would prove suggestive Of an un-
pleasant sentiment to the tender heart
of the wearer, but, contrary to the gen.
eral opinion, women's hearts evidently
do not get into or affect their heads, for
no objections have as yet been made to
the bonnet on the score of cruelty to the
innOccnts.
Next TO the feather bonnet in import
ancc is the beaver hat. This is large,
soft and furry, and the latest "agony {"
is to turn up the wide brim low upon the
left side, with an OWLS head with great
round, staring eyes, and complete the
decoration with a very long ostrich
plume, shaded in natural cOlOrs, for
beaver only comes in shades of dark
ecru and mastic and in black, and it is
the first to wear the owl
In direct contrast to the little feather
bonnet and large beaver hat are the
small Dcrbys, which have jumped into
sort of a rage for girls, and are even
worn by ladies, though they do not seem
suitable for matrons. Much better are
the soft-crowned bonnets of plain silk,
satin or velvet which are now furnished
ready for wear, except the final touch OF
trimming and interior ruchingS at prices
ranging from two to four dollars.
JACKETS AND CLoAKS.
The jacket of the season is small and
close fitting, perfectly plain, no vest;
sometimes, in fact often, double-breast-
ed, with side lappels, upon the short
skirt of the back, which do not extend
below its edge; English collar square,
not large, pockets and cuffs. 1t fits
like glove; except the buttons, which
are often striking, always handsome.
They are plain, and made in cloak vel
vet and velveteen in very dark wine and
cloth colors, rather than in black,
though black may be and is sometimes
used. 1t is not necessary at all that this
style of jacket should be the same color
as the dress. On the contrary, it must
be different to be Ia mode. For in
stance, you will see dark brown with
ecru, wine color, lawn or gray dress an
invisible green with plum color and gold
plaid.
The coat is more dressy garment.
1t is fanciful copy of gentleman's
dress coat, sometimes fastened down the
front, sometimes cut away, but usually
leaving very long, narrow tails, between
which may be a basque composed of a
series of fiat, side plaitings, or a large
puff of the silk or satin Of which the
dress is composed, and which these long
panels or straight lappels hold in place.
The coat, like the jacket before men
toned, is Independent of the dress; at
least it is of different fabric, and only
corresponds or harmonizes with it in
color; never matches. 1t may, indeed,
offer the most striking contrast. AL
that is necessary is that this color shall
reappear in some other part of the
dress or head-dress. For example,
ruby velvet coat may be worn
with white satin; dark wine color
with pale amber; brown with delicate
pink rich plum with olive; maroon
with pale lavender, etc. A coat, more
over, is never made plain, even of vel
vet; a jacket may be, but not coat.
The latter, if of velvet, or any plain,
rich fabric, is enriched with embroidery
of gold, fiat or rough, after the style Of
the Middle Ages; or it may be orna-
mented, instead, with an embroidery of
silk in which beads are intermixcd, or
with leaf pattern of beads upon lace.
If buttons are used not more than six or
eight are required, and if possible are
artistic; delicate painting or enamel are
the most distinguished, if done after
original designs and by good artists,
and, next to these, something distinctive
in carved or inlaid pearl.
While close-fitting jackets and coats
have become part of elegant indoor
dress, the fitted garments have been re-
tired in degree from outdoor service,
Al \