The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1879-10-11

nttlng like Joan OF Arc c0rSage, is
thing of the past, and numerous designs
have taken its place, nearly all of which
are short on the hips, some onlymeasuring
two or three inches from the belt at the
shortest point The fronts and back are
sharply pointed, la Marie Antoinette.
Another design is short on the hips, has a
square front and position back. The
long seams extending to the shoulder
where the side forms are introduced are
not seen on the latest imported dresses.
The seam instead ends at the arm-hole,
after the fashion of few years ago. The
reason given for the change is that the
long seams give a narrow ERECT to tic 1.S
shoulders, and apparently increase the
size of the waist. The extra side-form at
the front is still used, as it obviates the
necessity of ross-basque seams. Shoul-
der seams are still short, and sleeves, I'M
less on demi-toilettes, are long enough to
cover all the arm. Many handsome
dresses are being made with trains that
are adjustable, or that may be looped up
short with good effect. In this case the
train is but short one, as it would be
difficult to dispose of drapery too volum-
inous. Avery handsome black reception
dress, imported to exhibit at the fall
opening of leading house, is made as
follows; A long square train is laid in a
large Vatican plait, which is unconfined
and opens as it nears the bottom. The
material is black satin, striped with bro
caded velvet. At intervals of about
six inches the train is
slashed up twice that distance,
and putting of plain black satin intro
duced. The petticoat over which the
train opens is of black satin, with a
pointed tablier formed entirely of black
Jet galloon and fringe. The basque is
made with square-neck vest entirely Of
jet, and is bordered with handsome jet
fringe, with wide-netted, beaded head
ing. Another handsome reception dress
is of satinstriped changeable Pekin, in
herron-blue and claret. 1t is made with
long court train, which is round and is
very boufantly looped at the top. 1t is
edged all around with plisse but three
inches wide, plated with all the claret
satin stripes on top, glimpse of the
lighter stripe being visible only when the
plating flares. The petticoat is of Pekin,
with tablier and revers of claret, velvet,
ornamented with Pekin rosettes. The
basque is short on the hips and has a
long sharp point at both back and front
The only ornamentation is a claret velvet
collarette, which extends in two long
points to the bottom of the basque.
1t is a noteworthy fact that on all i'm.
ported dresses the sleeves are of the same
material as the waist. Many street
dresses are not made with a regular
basque, but only with a sacque or jacket
under which waist may be worn for
warmth.
Basques frequently have pannier eff.
feet given by the addition of the panniel
scarf, which is laid in plaits and secured
to the back of the basque. 1t passes ovel
the hips in irregular folds and is plain ir
front. Vests are still much worn, bu
are greatly diminished in size, the newes
being but little more than narrow trim
ming extending down the front of tn
basque. Quite frequently they ar
formed of the beaded galloon or othe
beaded garniture with which the dress i
trimmed.
MILLINERY.
Thousands of bright plumaged bird
have been ruthlessly killed to make beau
tiful the hats of the coming winter
Waving ostrich plumes have been lait
aside for breasts, wings and even who'll
birds of brilliant color, and so lavish i
the use of that exquisite beauty, tn
| humming bird, that the variety is threat
e ened with determination. Large breast
+ of comparatively dull hues are bright
S ened by the addition Of the neck an
l.. breast of humming birds, as many 9
e ten being sometimes inserted in on,
: Feathers are grouped together IN ever
e imaginary way in combinations {
y breasts, wings and heads. One novelt
d is bow of Impeyan breast feathers, wit
e humming- birds plumage inserted he
: and there, and cross-piece formed
n two humming-birds' heads. In ol
Ii leather ornament Ten or uWelVe SUE
heads are all grouped closely togeth
like bunch of flowers. Bands of feath
a trimmings will be used as fancy ms
IT dictate, either as face trimming to
T. rolling brim, or to encircle the crow
,s They are not of ostrich feathers
II formerly, but of the breast plumage
"a all kinds of bright-hued birds, colors
N gaudy as a parrots sometimes being use
$ Peacock bands will be used, as they q
70 cord well with the popular paon shade
,e Wings are to be largely used, and appe
If in great variety. They are large al
,r are prepared in their natural shaI
is which is 50 much prettier than the Fl
It or six quilts fastened together, whi
d formed the popular wing of few st
IS sons since. One wing on hat is CO
I'd sidered insufficient, as many being us
ne as it is possible to dispose of. A pref
D. way of arranging them is to p
a one on each side of the hat la Nj
To curry. The feather bows and pla
ry breasts are put on che top of bonn,
r. with loops of ribbon or silk. /
ms feather ornaments for the winter will