The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1878-12-19
WOODEN Suits.

cashmeres and cloths of solid color are
found to be most popular. They are
with embossed velvet, MORE
satin and striped goods that are partly
velvet and partly satin; sometimes a
third fabric is added for facings. Silk
of inexpensive quality is used for the
foundation skirt, to prevent the cos
tune being too heavy, but this is sell
dom seen as the fiounces are usually of
wool. There are, however, stylish
plans of making wool costumes in
which silk plays a conspicuous part,
viz, when three deep flOunces are put
on the back part of dresses with apron
drapery, End in the revers polonaises
that turn back from the front and dis
close two or three founces of silk ON the
front breadths. Such polonaises are
called the Trianon, and their jaunty
shape is an excellent design for remodel
ing the princesse pOlonaises of last sea-
son. To do this the side seams of the skirt
are ripped open as far up as the hips;
the fronts are then cut off short to dis
pense with any cross-way folds, and
turned back in broad three-cornered
revers to the middle seam, leaving the
buttoned part below the waist about as
long as plain cuirass basque. The
revers is then covered on the outside
with silk, satin or MORE, and the side
seams are sewed again, leaving all the
length possible in the back to be
punched up in bouffant drapery by
means of several tapes. The lower
skirt worn with this polonaise requires
deep trimming on the front breadths,
such as very narrow kilt-pleating be-
ginning so high that the top is hidden
under the short front of the polonaise;
this pleating is usually of the wool OF
the polonaise. When Something more
dressy is required, three pleated flounces
of silk cover the front breadths. This
suit has been prettily made in dark blue
ladies' cloth, with revers and flounces
of blue silk with tiny polka dots OF
white. A vest of the silk may be laid
on the front, or else wide belt may
be sewed in the side seams under the
arms.
The reverse of this, with the pleated
flounces behind, is also very fashionable;
but care is required that the founces
be very full and well Tapped, and
that they do not extend too far forward
on the sides. A beautiful short suit
made in this way is of myrtle-green
camel -hair and silk, with the gay
trimming of Scotch plaid satin cut in
straight stripes not more than three
inches wide, and forming borders and
bands that look like satin ribbon. The
front is draped like an apron, and
trimmed with three plaid satin bands
there are trimmed revers down the
sides, and the upper part of the back
has panier pouf opening on the three
silk f1ounces that extend across the
back. The waist is a position basque,
the front part of which is plaid satin
vest. The vest extends far below the
green camels-hair of which the basque
is made. Ladies who prefer black
suits use camel's hair and embossed
velvet together, and pipe them with
satin. The vest is of velvet, and the
camers hair basque is double-breasted
and buttons across it. For cloth short
suits seal brown is the favorite color,
and is very handsome with either
striped or embossed velvet. For dressy
suits the overskirt is made on the low.
er one, and in many parts of the dress
is the only skirt over the foundation
this does away with the great weight
The palmer cloth suits are merely long
round over-skirts and basques that MAY
be worn with any black silk or velve
skirt. Young ladies wear garnet clotf
or camel's-hair suits that have many
pipings of satin of the same color, o.
else the striped velvet forms trimming
Pleated wool founces are often made
more dressy by bias band of satin al
inch wide laid on an inch above thu
lower edge of the flounce. The gray
suits most worn are of the checked
suitings or cloths such az gentlemen
have lately worn; these are simply
made, and their only ornament is row!
of stitching and large smoked-pear
buttons. A few more dressy gray suit
are enlivened by garniture Of maroon
velvet. 1t is, however, matter O.
comment that few somber-colOreC
costumes are worn At present; garne
of q very dark rich shade, myrtle green
ducks breast blue, and very red-tintet
seal brown are the colors most used il
suits; navy blue and gray have in .
measure lost favor as complete suits
though often used in combinations
Harper's Bazaar.