Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-12-28
The Cyprian Damascus.
THE crrY OF Nloosn AND rrs ISnaB,r.s

THE CITY OF Nlcos1a AND IT'S INHABITANTS.
W. Heph Dixon's Letters to Manchester x.p,;ner
our Cyprian Damascus is a labyrinth of alleys.
winning Hhaer mlnaFetS and palms. in and ont
among all endless series of fountains. orau~p
clumpS and oiive-grouEdS. Only native of fhe
town could find his way from gate to moslli,s.
from cotIee-house TO bazaar. An engineer
whose tents are pitched outside the western
gate-which might be called King Richards
Gate-tells nc that he took a whole fortnight
to learn his track from the camp outside Ia rho
konak inside the walls Imagine how the
stranger OF Il day must feel in such a maze
High walls enclose the StreetS-hign walls Of
sun-dried brick, brown and forbldding to the
eye. but pierced by archways here and there
These openings lead into yards and gardens
having rude and far-away resemblance To the
courts OF Seville aud Damascus Here, in truth,
for the loss Of art you have more luxu-
RANT nature. Palms hardly live in Sc
vie, and the pomegranate Of Damascus paIeS
before the same fruit in Nicosia Some
of the doors are left ajar. permitting
feminine peeps at the new masters of the
pace, as they dash past, booted and helmeted
taxing no notice of the dust and heat, Nicosa
has belonged 10 many lords in turn, and her
inhabitants have had 10 look on the faces OF
many strangers, from the Swarthy Persian TO
the palild Frank. Some feminine curiosity may
De expected and forgiven. The present case Is
new. OF all their masters, Syrian, Greek, Eryp-
tlan, Persian, Macedonian. Roman. Byzantine
EhgISh. SaFacen, venetian, Turk. the English
are the Only masters who have Staid away 100
years from the Nic0tianS, and then come back
TO them III greater strength than ever we are
not people who have Waned like other mas
tefS OF tie land. That we have been wit them
al0retline they are wen aware. since certain
villages on the way from I.lmoSal to Nic0sia
Dear the stamp OF English names. our track
was marked by deeds which have OutliEeti The
memory CT crtISading kings, Venetian DrefpctS
ana turkish MutessarifS. Names are I0nar-Iiyci
III cyprus, as in every portion OF the east. Al
many OF the arcIlwayS In these walls stand
typriote damSelS On the watch Nene;ianS
never came back. Crusaders never came back
hat are these English like. who came into
Itler country long ago. left here and there a
name behind them, and have now returned II
time?
AS we approach the Aioslena women draw their
}aShmaShS round their faces Even the Greeks
affect to sllun our gaze. TIE little ones eithpr
dart inside or hide their heads in their mothers
LAPS in order to escape the evil eve Rut All ara
moved. and curious, and excited by your pres
cnce III the streets. sometimes the doors are
silently put 10 as you get near; not always and
Ia futl, not often, t0i the natives of both races
ana especially the MOSltmS, look on yOu as
friends. 4 tricke CT water can be heard in
every yard, While dates and oranges rise ahayC
every wall. Arches run along three sides Of the
hCicSeu space. nder these arches on the
ground l00r lodge the camel, mule, and OK: sun
posing that the owner has such property as
camel mule, and OK. Every family has palm
tree, almost every one has a garden, and not a
lew have water-wheel. Above the arches
1--we the family, the female members in a QUAR-
ter OF their own. Men are content 10
lCuSe Ike shepherds, near their mules
and cattle. while their wives and Sisters
sleep in chambers looking on the orange trees.
within hearing of the water wheels. Women of
all ages, clothed in sea green, pink and ORANGE
garments, sit under the trees, dronng their ma
tive songs, while their busy fingers draw and
spin their native silk. EentaS and balconies
hang above the streets, Turing in ever breath OF
air. The jalOusieS are down. but you are made,
aware, by echo OF whispered words and sound
OF feminine laughter that the native critics arc
at work OF your pale face, puggeree aud riding
boots.
A hundred alleys, winding under minaretS
and palms, III and out, among an endless series
OF fountains, orange clunIp5 and olive grounds.
Gus OF the sea. one feature OF the city separates
Nlcos:a from the Syrian capitalize want OF
any street that, even by the courtesy OF Ori9n-
tails. could lie called .sThp Sfraipit -