The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1878-04-13


and they may be quite low on the
shoulders, or else high behind; the
fronts are quite long and narrow, and
are tied in half knot that draws the
garment closely to the shoulders, keeps
the arms close to the sides, and has the
graceful clinging effect that the cling
ing costume requires. Those of black
wool are most used and are embroid-
cred directly on the edges, and finished
with fringe that is tied into the hem of
the garment, like that seen on Canton
Grape shawls. The prices of tichus be-
gin as low as ten dollars each. An
other small wrap is the Clarissa Har-
lowe scarf, made almost straight,
reaching from shoulders to waist in the
back, with long ends in front. There
are short darts in the shoulders to shape
it properly, and fanciful fiat hood is
in the back. These are embroidered,
or else trimmed with three or four rows
of knife-pleated lace and passementerie.
There are also many capes, some of
which are three round Carricks, while
others are a single cape of black cam
els-hair slightly pointed in front and
back, and cut with long seam on each
shoulder in the old-fashioned way
Around the neck of such a cape is a
deep-pleated collar of black watered
silk edged with beaded balls, fringe, or
lace, and watered silk pleating bor-
ders the garment. Mantelets are seen
in abundance, and many of these have
the graceful Dolman seams in the back,
with the arm piece cut quite short, or
else forming small sleeve, and the
front extending very low. There can
be nothing new in the way of putting
trimming on wraps of this shape,
as it is necessarily confined to two
or three rows down the middle of the
back and border on the edge. 1t is
more than ever necessary that these
garments be cut very close to the figure
and in slender proportions, instead of
the long, bulky mantles worn year
ago. The illuminated beaded trim
mings showing every color of the rain
bow are much used on these black
mantles, making them very rich and
expensive; jet trimmings in new de-
signs are also shown. The most ele-
giant Sicilienne wraps are lined through
out with old gold-colored silk, or else
with twilled silk of soft biege shades.
Rich GALLONS and passementeries of
open patterns are also heavily beaded.
The fringes are largely used, and are
especially handsome. Whalebone and
grass fringes of fiattened silk threads
are very fashionable, and the beaded
fringes of intricate patterns are used on
elaborate wraps. Small, square bows
of narrow, black satin ribbon are set in
a row amid pleatings of lace on the
border of mantles. Watered ribbon is
used in the same way. Two strings of
ribbon each a yard long and about
three inches wide are placed at the
throat of the mantle, and the wearer
ties it in long-looped bow. Some
times this ribbon is watered on one side
and satin on the other; in other cases
it is double-faced satin ribbon, one side
black and the other beige, old gold,
olive or cardinal.
Very few dressv wraps are made in
sacque shape There are. however,
some of heavily repped silk or of Sicil-
ienne made in the simplest French
sacque shape, single-breasted, medium
long and smooth over the tournure.
These are elaborate with rainbow beads,
lace, passementerie and fringe. For
iaunty undress wraps, English jackets,
sacques with Carrick capes and other
masculine-sleeved garments are pre-
ferred. The English coat is precisely
like a gentleman's morning coat in
the back, but is buttoned from the re-
vers collar to the waist in front, and
thus does away with the necessity for a
vest. These are made up in light mas
tic gray and beige-colored cloths of En-
glish and Scotch manufacture, not in
set diagonals or in basket pattern. but
in irregular indefinite weaving that pro
duces the mixed effects now so popular
These are simply stitched on the edges,
or else they are bound. Those of gray
broken plaids will be much worn for
morning by young ladies. The pretti-
est sacques with Carrick capes omit the
middle seam in the back, and none of
these English garments have long seams
from the shoulders.
Travelling cloaks retain much of the
Ulster shape, though more closely fitted,
dHU ludlll are OIHdllcHlcu WIFI CdrElck
capes. The English cloths are used for
early spring and steamer wear. For
long journeys, where a cooler and more
dressy wrap is desired, the genuine In
dia pongee is used for making the long
cloak and Carrick capes. Beige and
ecru pongee are imported for this pur-
pose, also the cool, clean gray shades.
Gray muslin and linen busters will be
made in similar shapes.
Wooden buttons, large, thick and
with eyes in the middle, are used on
cloth wraps for spring. Thick braid in
rows of three to five is favorite trim
ming for light cloths; on some wraps
light trimmings o. gilt or of silver are
mixed with the braids. Carriage wraps
are made of cloth in bourette mixtures
of many colors. The shape is partly
circular and partly Dolman, adhering
closely to the outlines of the figure, vel
being very easily put on or taken of, as
all extra wraps must be.-Harper'S Ba.
gar.