The Portland daily press., 1878-10-10
THURSDAY MORNING. O
tHarper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.

behind ard on the sides. These oyer.dresses
are of Pompadour brocaded silk in several
colors. They are cut low in the neck in a
pointer else square and have very short sleeves
No high corsages are prepared for them. as the
over-dresses are mostly in princess shane with
the waist and overskirt cut in continuous
breadths The trains are very long, are tied
low down instead of flowing in straight breadtbs
and all have squere corners. The lower skirt
Is oil plain satin or silk and the train is most
often an extension of the over-dress. or else
there is breadth of the brocads in the middle.
with one of the plain fabric on each side of II.
The most elaborate fringes made to match the
brocades are the favorite trimmings for the
oVer-dress. Flowers are used in the greatest
pfotusiop, aud 10 rich masses as borders for the
trains or as great panels on the side instead of
the struggling garlands formerly worn. Very
little lace appears on these dresses The flounces
are narrow knife. pleatings of satin or of silk.
and great deal OF pleated crepe lisse is used
Dom In colors to match the dress and in white.
Marrow satin ribbons in ends, loops and slen-
= der bows are employed in various ways; thus
there are long clusters of loops down the
seams, or else ends are pointed and finished
with button, and others alternate with long
stemmed rose buds in forming fringes. Few
beads are seen except the white Jet or crystal
beads that are sometimes tied in the fringes
MOST OF the corsages lace bahnd and are fas-
tened with very small fine laclng strings in
stead OF the conspicuous ones used last winter
One OF the richest dresses is of beige and cream
shades, partly brocade satin and partly plain
and for unique border it has many rows of
tiny buttons Embroidery in long panels ia
said to be in favor with Parisiennes for orna-
menting evening dresses. Some bridal dresses
shown are of white satin brocaded in flowers.
ana others in stripes, in combination with
plain satin. There are pale-tinted embossed
velvets in all the new Pompadour combinations
to form over-dresses for velvet skirts Of SIM
liar pale shades. Black velvet dresses retain
the princesse shape, with scarf drapery across
the front. aud square trains; Chantilly lace is
the thinning. Very handsome black satin
dresses for receptions are shown, with elabor.
ate ornaments Of jet in lace designs, and pale.
tinted satin ribbon bows The whalebope
fringes are are also found to be most harmoni-
Gus trimmings for black satin toilettes.
Reception and carriage toiettes with bonnets
to correspond ale composed of striped velvet or
brocaded satin with plain satin. One of the
handsomestis of the new shade of blue called
duck s-breast the front of the skirt and the side
breadths are OF alternate panels of plain satin
and OF the brocade; the back is slightly bonf-
FAINT, being held by a large bow, and ending in
asquare train. The waist is cuirass BASQUE of
the brocade, and there is coat of the satin
with brocaded collar and cuffs The bonnet
has hard round crown of the blue satin, with
velvet orlm slightly pointed in Marie Stuart
style, but without face trimming: the trimmino
Is an Alsacain bow of velvet, with ostrich tins
OF the new blue and one gold ostrich feather.
The lace crayat is the new Breton lace, and the
gloves are gray lavender kid. Embossed and
striped velveIs in which there is much beige.
old gold and duck S. breast blue, are used for
er.dTesses in these rich costumes that have
demi-traned skirts. The waist of the dress il
scarcely more than basque in front, but turns
DaGk en- reVers on the sides and is a princesse
polonalse behind; this is one most pooular
design; another has the skirt trimmed with
revers and quite bouffant, with q separate
basque that invariably has a deep vest much
longer than the basque. The small-fgured
brocaded silks in Persian colors are also mneh
used for reception dresses.
Inc most elegant evening wraps are of satin =
finished brocade in small shell patterns raised
to look as if quilted. They are made in loose
shapes, a compromise between msntjas and
sacques and have wide and square half sleeves.
The trimmings are white fox fur, swan's-down.
lace and fringe. -
The short suits represent all designs with a
preponderance of basques and over-skirts with
A9NoIo "uu ieefousse panuS. OGner6 nave SIM
pie deep fully gathered aprons of the wooden
fabrics, while a broad band of embossed OF
striped velvet is placed on the lower skirt in
such way that it outlines the apron and seems
to border it.
A novelty in waists is the polka basoue.
which merely extends below the taper Of the
waist, and is then trimmed with side-pleating
eight or ten inches deep. This promises to be
popular with young and slender ladies, aud is
made up IN gay Scotch plaids that are trimmed
for basques, especially the double breasted from
with square opening at the top, and slopeC
away az the waist to show deep vest below
This vest is usually of velvet, and the suuar,
at the top is hlled in with the same velvet
The long vests, real or simulated, are in great
favor, and are commended to readers who ask
bow to modernze basques that have become
too Short or are soiled or worn in 'front.'
Wraps are divided into coats, mantles. and
loug cloaks. The coats are for general usa
and are cut 10 the shapes illustrated lately 10
the Bazaar. They cost from 81 upward, The
NANTES are for more dressy occasions, and are
made with long square fronts, wide but short
square sleeve-llke openings on the sides, and
graceful backs shaped by one, two, or three
seams. They differ from Dolmans in being as
short on the side as in the back. They are
made of black camel s-hair, Of Scilieune. fig.
ured velvet. or of cloth, and are trimmed with
menterie, and pleated lace. The long eloaks
are to be worn in the carriage with the demi.
trained skirts of visiting costumes. Thew are
made OF Slcllenne, repped silk, or cameps-hair
and are lined with squirre-lock fur, and
trimmed with black lynx or with silver-beayer
Mornins wrappers are made in very simple
designs, with the front and sides hanging per.
fectly smooth, and the back easily fitted with
short side forms. The skirts are narrow demi.
trains gracefully curved. and are without
fiounces on the bottom The pockets on the
sides are square and very large. The collars
are deep and square in yoke shape, or else
rounded like the Carrick, and there is usually
a standing collar besides in the Englsb
shape known as Piccadlly. A few
are made dOuble-breasted with reyers collar.
and some very dressy wrappers are made with
asilk vest and trimming that slopes off to sim.
ulate cut-away coat. The new material for
wrappers is closely woven French flannel
that looks like cloth, and the colors are ia The
dark cloth shades instead of plaids and stripes.
Bordeaux red seems to be the fayorite color
after which is pale blue or else darker turquoise
olue me trimmings are velvet of the same
shade, cloth pinked on the edges, and white
lace, either Russian or torchop.
Hem-stitch1ng and very fine needle-work
ornament the new linen collars and cuffs to the
entire exclusion OF lace trimming. The rou-
leau or rolled-over English collar remains the
favorite shape, and. is worn either yery high
about the throat or else quite low; the latter
fashion prevails in Paris, but the preference
here is for high close shapes. The turned
over points OF the collar are covered with
cry. or else open-work is done in circles.
arabesques, or coach-wheel patterns, or in dag,
onal lines. and the edge of the collar has
band hem-stitched on, giving the effect Of a
hem. If any lace is used, it is very fine tor
are straight instead 81 ff sqannal a sGSsa e
square piece cut out. and filed in with fineD
Iy crimped linen roffie that is hen-stitched
The plain linen collars are of the rolled Enc.
llsh shape, with "dicky'' or collarette fnr
making them fit we'll; next these are prettv
hem-stitched collars, not made straight, as real
hem-stitching requires, but with a false hem
attached by strong yet open stitch as pretty
as clearinghouse and more durable.
Frlls for the neck and wrists are two path
cred muslin ruffles the inuer one higher than
that on the outside, neatly scalloped on the
edges in button-hole stitches. These are for
morning use. For afternoon and evening are
crepe lsse frills in three rows each finely
crimped, and each edged with puri braid. There
is also very finely crimped muslin with thread
edgiugs on the hens.
To wear at the throat with the fine linen COL |
lars that are used with morning and walking
dresses are cravat bows of variegated ribbons
one color of which matches the grave shade of
the dress, while the others are very CAV, Tins
with seal brown dress there are two long
loops OF seal brown, two of pale blue. one Of
cream, and one of moss green. These yarie
gated bows are of satin ribbon, double-faced, |