Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1878-05-23
Letter From Chlna-Vlsit with the
Viceroy of Canton.

the Canton river in the southern part Of China.
One naturally wishes, on reading his letters on
the strange people and the ole wonders of
that far east country, to be there and see, but
no doubt Mr.. Barber wishes more heartily that
he we're home and away from such scenes.
The following is part of letter under date of
April 2, written to his father the Hon. J. Al
len Barber:
There is nothing of interest in the
trip up the Canton river, q great
sameness of low, paddy (rice) fields
and small villages along the bar ks,
with pagodas here and there stand
ing up in their loneliness and ancient
grandeur as time-marks of gener.
atoms long past. As you approach
the city you only are aware Of it by
the greatly increasing number of
junks and sanrans and boats of all
kinds and an apparently larger viii
lage than usual and a strongly in
creasing unpleasant odor, for the
Chinese cities are very dirty. The
foreign consuls and merchants live
by themselves on small island con-
nected to the city by bridge. They
live very pleasantly here entirely rid
of Chinese, except their servants. Our
Consul is Mr.. Lincoln, rather a
pleasant, fine fellow. The first two
days we lay there we spent in sight.
seeing and shopping. On the third
day the Admiral was to pay his of
fetal visit upon the Vicsroy, (the
second in rank after the Emperor. J
The Consul had made all arrange.
ments so at IL, A. 1.-The party con-
sisting of the Admiral, the two COM
handing officers, the Staff Lieuten.
ant, the Admiral's Secretary and N.Y.
self, met at the Consul's and taking
our sedan chairs, carried each by
four coolies, we started in process
sion in the order above named, ex-
cept the Consul of course leading, all
of US in full dress uniform. We had
six runners ahead to clear the way,
and two interpreters. The distance
must have been fully three to tour
miles through the most intricate city
In the world except Pekin; streets
no wider anywhere than an ordin-
airy sidewalk, say eight feet; so mar
row that the chairs could not pass
except in certain places. Passing
through long streets Of handsome
silk stores, butcher shops, carpenter
shops, tea stores, junk stores in in
extricable confusion, you can mag
inc the effect. Carried up in Sc
dan chair at the height of the shoul.
ders, the horrid, quaint, dirty, hsnd-
some peculiar streets, the countless
stores of all kinds, the myriads of
passing Cinnamon of all classes and
descriptions, the constant noise and
confusion of hundreds of these run
nsrs clearing the way for the chairs,
going in all directions, the apparent
confusion Chaotic almost apparent
ly) and yet all as regular as clock
work, and as regards the Chinese all
going on in the same groove it did a
thousand years ago. The sight was
one | never can forget. l so wished
you could have been one OF the party.
After about two hours threading
this Chinese puzzle we came to
a large gate which opened at
our approach, and we found our
selves in the outer court yard ofthe
palace-three or four hundred re-
tainers scattered around in all sorts
of dirty Chinese uniforms A hun
dred yards brought US to second
gate which, opening, we found our
selves in the second court. Here we
dismounted from our chairs and
were met by the Viceroy with his
suite, to whom we were presented
in recession, according to rank, by
the interpreter The Viceroy was
dressed in the finest Of silks with a
long mandarin seal coat covering all
with his various badges of rank
adorning his person. 1t is impossible
to describe them TO you-it is mat
ter of too great variety and length
for letter. The manner of Greet.
ing is this /: putting the closed hands
against each other, the thumbs in
line, and bowling low, no shaking of
hands. After short parade preced-
ed by the Viceroy and followed by
his suite we were conducted through
two long courts and finally found
ourselves in small room decorated
by various Chinese characters and
Joshes (gods) and at table laden
with Chinese eatables, at which we
were seated according to rank-the
Admiral at the opposite end from
the Viceroy, and then toward him
in ra, k. L was on the Viceroy's
right. Before beginning to par!ake
of the various dishes the Admiral
made a little speech thanking him
for the kind reception, ETC.. and of
how much pleasure it would give
the President TO hear of our gracious
reception, &c., &c. You can readily
supply court speech without my
taking the time ard trouble to write
it. The viands, consisted of nothing
but preserves, candies and Chinese
| CohOo-sOno VI tuo picoOiVce, bum
as oranges, lines, berries, &c, were
very fine. The retainers and suite,
to the number of fifty or more, stood
around us. His table was rather luxu-
riantly supplied with forks no chop.
sticks. During our rspast conversa-
ton flowed fast and the Viceroy dis
covered to US intelligence as regards
the outer world, far beyond what we
would have given him credit for.
He told us his province embraced
over fifty millions of people; that
our immigrants into San Francisco
nearly all belonged to his province.
The reason that railroads could not
be introduced was on account of the
coolies Qaboring people)nnd also be-
cause the Government had not the
money and the merchants would not
lend it. His salary is perhaps fifty
or sixty thousand. but | learned that
he gives the most of it away in char
ity. He spoke OF our country, the
late action of Congress in reference
to Chinese immigration, &c. When
/ IL was nearly time to 90 taa uas