The Vancouver independent. (Vancouver, W.T. [Wash.]) 1875-1910, 1878-03-14

the fatigue. The mountain tops at our
left were bathed in clouds, appearing and
disappearing in endless variety, giving
us the most grand transformation scenes.
In the evening we saw Mt Blanc tinged
by the setting sun, so that the snow was
a lovely pink. We have been wonder
fully favored in the weather, having had
almost continual sunshine, very unusual
in this region.
We started very early the next morning
by open carriage for Martigny, by the
pass of the Fete Noir. The road is the
worst in all Switzerland, and as we were
lame after our severe climb, we felt the
jolting sadly. This time we traced the
Arve to its source, watching it become
smaller and smaller till it was mere
rivuet, plunging in cascade down the
mountain side. Here was the watershed,
from the other side of which a stream
flows in the opposite direction. | am
realizing my Physical Geography now.
At the inn where we dined there was a
large family of dogs of the st. Bernard
breed kept for sale. We had hard
climb up the side of mountain by a
ziszag road, ard at the top of the pass
reached Forclaz, whence we had most
lovely view of the valley of the Upper
Rhone, with the pass Of st. Bernard at
the right, giving short route into Italy.
| wished so much we might take that
course, and Uncle tried to tantalize me
by telling how few hours it would take.
Through this valley ran straight
white road as far as the eye could reach,
and beside it the railroad to Italy, for
which they are constructing a tunnel
twelve miles long.
| must hasten III my story, merely men
tionipg that we had to wait four hours
in Martigny, hot, dusty, uninteresting
town. Took evening train for Villeneuve,
at the head of Lake Leman, and went to
Hotel Byron, an excellent house, very
large and fine, with a lovely garden in
front, and the historical romantic Castle
of Chillon in plain sight.
Sunday morning we had delicious
breakfast, daintily served on china which
bore the crest of the house, portrait of
Byron. We sat looking out on the lake,
and listening to the church bells. There
was Sabbath hush on the scene. The
mountains and lake were dim and
hazy, the air balmy and sweet. Uncle
read Byron's description of the lake
from his "Prisoner of Chillon." was
perfectly enchanted with the place, and
would gladly spend month there. We
walked bareheaded to the Castle of Chill
Ion, visiting its dark and gloomy dun
geons, where Downward spent six long
years
Until his very steps have left trace,
Worm as if thy cold pavement were sod,
BY Downward! May none these marks etface;
For they appeal from tyranny to God"
Saw Byron's name cut in the stone pill
lar to which Downward was chained. The
chamber in which the condemned Grim
inal spent his last night contains couch
of stone; near by is the beam for execu-
tons, and the passage through which the
body was slipped into the lake. Fearful
monuments of MANS inhumanity to
man."
We were obliged to leave this lovely
spot and proceed by steamer to Vevay.
Saw two grand hotels, where everything
is calculated to make sojourn delightful.
If ever have plenty of money and time,
| will spend summer on Lake Leman.
Our next stopping place was Lausanne,
perched on the mountain side, high above
the water. Near us the Hotel Gibbon
marks the spot where Gibbon and Vol
taire often sat; the former finished his
History of Rome" in the adjoining
garden. | am rather disappointed in
the town; but the view from our win
dows is lovely. Mt. Blanc is sometimes
visible. but We have not yet seen it from
this point.