The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-08-12
AGRICULTURAL.
Concerning the Use of Butter in Foreign
Countries.

England is rapidly becoming market for
increased quantities of American butter, and
statistics already show surprising total OF
butter exported thence. Dutch butter Is
very largely consumed in every part OF
Great Britain, and it has been estimated
that three-fourths of all the foreign butter
used in England is imported from Holland.
Leading journals express the fear that con-
siderable quantity of it is only purified fat
favored with buttermik. A cons iderable
trade is done in Irish butter, but as rule
foreign buffers from Holland, France and
America are preferred to Irish butter, be-
cause the former are considered scrupulously
clean, while the Irish product frequently con-
tains hair and dirt, as well as too much salt
and brine.
The varieties of English butter are numer-
GUS enough, but they do not hold proml-
nent place even among the people of England.
Some of them are excellent; Devonshire,
Aylesbury and Epping buffers are deservedly
popular, and Cambridge butter also, though
it is currently reported that what is called
Cambridge butter is only mixture OF foreign
buffers. Delicious butter, possessing fine
creamy favor, is made also in the neighbor.
hood of Edinburgh, Scotland, yet the great
majority of British butter is far inferior to
the choice lines of American dairy produce.
Nearly all the best butter supplied to the Lon
don clubs comes from Ostend, from Norman
dy, and from Brittany in France.
French cooks. in their preparations, use
great deal more butter than the English do.
and it is said an English housekeeper would
be appalled, at the quantity disposed of in a
French kitchen. In various forms the French
use butter for sauce. Rauigote butter is the
dairy product incorporated with chopped
herbs, pepper, salt and lemon juice. 1t is
served with steaks and broiled fish. Mditre
dhotet butter is butter kneaded with chopped
parsley, pepper, salt and lemon juice. A pat
is put cold either under or upon broiled meat
or fish, and melts in the dish. When dish
is said to be served la lnaitre Ghotel, it is
almost always served either with this butter
or with what is called mditre dh0tel sauce,
which is only common melted butter with
chopped parsley added to it. Anchovy but
ter is made with butter and pounded ancho-
vies.
There are simpler preparations of butter
sauce than these used in France, and which
can be easily prepared. Amongst the most
important Of these are "black butter" the
French beurre noir, pquant sauce used for
some kinds of fish, calf's brains and similar
dishes. 1t is made by melting fresh butter in
small saucepan, and letting it remain over
the fire till it is brown without being at all
burnt. 1t is then mixei with vinegar, which
has been boiled rapidly, till it is considerably
reduced, pepper and salt are added, when the
bduCc, dltcr UcluS pdSeeu tuiOuSu d oeiaiiiOi,
Is ready to serve. "Nut-brown BUTTER" or
beuYre d la noisette, is one of the most perfect
of fish sauces. 1t is made by melting fresh
butter, and allowing it, not to brown, but to
acquire light golden tinge. When this
point is reached the butter is taken at once
from the fire, and served with salt and little
lemon juice. Oiled butter, another simple
sauce highly esteemed by French epicures, is
nothing but fresh butter melted to oil, but
not colored at all, then strained to free it
from the milky sediment contained in the but
ter, and slightly sailed before being served.
In Denmark and Sweden butter is made in
large quantities. Butter is so generally en-
ploye1 in England that in addition TO that
made at home, nearly 1S0000,000 pounds of
foreign butter are imported annually; while
it has been estimated that in London alone
the annual consumption amounts to about
100000 pounds. In India butter is made
from the milk of buffaloes, and, under the
name of "ghee," is universally used in native
cookery. In Brazil large quantities OF butter
are imported from England, France and Ger
many, in addition to the native product,
which latter is very inferior. No good reason
exists why an extended market for American
butter may not be developed in Brazil. In
southern Europe butter is very sparingly used,
and in Italy, Spain, aud Portugal it is sold by
apothecaries as an ointment for external ap-
pllcation in the case of bruises or injuries.