The Portland daily press., 1878-07-04
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
Misses Wardrobes.

The kilt suit is of the most simple construc
tion. The kilt skirt is formed of pleats all
turned one way and of the sizs indicated in the
pattern of the pleated breadth given These
plsats are not lined, are merely hemmed on the
bottom or else faced with thin crinoline lawn.
They are then pressed in shape and are held in
position by two or three bands of tape passing
around the skirt. At the top is plain yoke
covering the hips smoothly, to which the pleats
are sewed. This yoke is lined with silesa to
make it strong, is buttoned behind and may
have belt or not, as the wesrer pleases For
tall slender girls who have scarcely any hips it
is sometimes preferred to leave off the yoke and
have the kilt pleats extend up to the belt, as
this gives fuller roundness to the slight fig
ure; for very stO1t girls the yoke Is often made
deeper than the pattern, but must never bs long
enough to show below the basque. The scarf
sometimes added to such suits is very dressy
and is especially becoming to tall, overgrown
girls. If the figure is sufficiently mature to
require more length in the back than in the
front of the kilt, this extra length is given by
making the yoke deeper behind than 1t is in
front. The vest and cut-away jacket may be
made together or separately, as described else
where. Perhaps the latter plan Is best, as the
vest is the part soonest soiled, aud by having
second vest the suit can be freshened and va
ried. Blue, brown or black and white pin-head
checks made 10 this way are in great favor
with young girls These checked suits are of
nice wo0len for best dresses and are piped with
solid colored wool. For everyday wear the
same checks are seen In prints, percales and
ginghams.
The dress with pleated yoke blouse, washer
woman over-skirt, and round skirt is also q
pretty and simple style that will not puzzle the
most Inexperienced needle-womau. The square
yoke with pleated basque worn with b.lt is
a model seen oD imported dresses from the best
Partisan houses, and on all kinds of fabrics
| from the richest camePs-hair down to plain
| ginghams. This blouse need not have q smooth.
ly fitted lining for thin dresses that are often
washed but ia basque shaped lining of thin
silisia makes wooden or silk blouses
far more durable. Thinning the yoke
adds much to its effect, aud this
trimming may be turned upward toward the
collar or down toward the belt according to
| the fancy. Thus pink, blue or cream -coored
| lawn yoke will have Smyrna lace or Hamburg
| edging, with the scalloped edge turned up
ward; barred gingham will have a band Of
| solid-colored percale around the yoke; blue
| or ecru or gray bunting will have three rows
| of white braid or else one broad row;
| cashmere or camels-hair of olive brown will
have shaded olive and blue embroidery with
the scalloped edges turned down; and checked
silk yoke will have q peated rnffie or a tiny
| pinked frill gathered in the middle. The edge
| of the basque and the sleeves are trimmed to
| match the yoke, and the same is true of the
| band on the washer.woman over-skirt. This
| aver-skirt is especially pretty for young girls
| and is also fashionable for ladies. The front
breadth is cut Sd broad that side cores are not
used, es many seams would interfere with the
| shape of the turned up band when the stuff
| 4. hOfh cfA aVaI "a - L.
merely turned mp instead of being
cut off, turned on the other side, and
| sewed to the bottom of the over-skrt. If a
different material Is used for this band 1t is
effective, and is then simply faced on the outer
side of the apron. The back breadthmay hang
plain, but is more fauciful if tied by bow or II
made slightly bouffant by 6rapery. The turned
| up band is sometimes exten0ed across the back
widths also; when it is coufned to the front
breadth, the trimming at the top should extend
| down the sides of the band. The round skirt
has but one side gore and a full back breadth.
1t should hang evenly all around without dip
piIg in the back. The pleated hounces are
more dressy when trimmed to match the other
| parts of the dress.
| Sometimes the square yoke is made of the
| solid color that is used for bands in trimming
| checked dresses. Thus a blue and white
| checked calico will have solid blue yoke, col
| lar, cults, and retrousse band, and a bias band
| an inch or more in width will be sewed on each
| hounce near the bottom, while a similar band
will serve as heading. Formerly yoke and
! blouse were considered parts of dress suita-
BILE only for calicoes and for school dre sses but
the Parsians have introducsd them for the
| incest material.
| The Derby hat is the shape chosen for gener-
al use by young ladies' This has a stiff high
crown, that may be either round or square
topped, and narrow brim that curls upward
all around Black or brown chip is most use
ful for such hats, and the trimming is band
and binding of wide galloon, or else folds of
black grenadine, with gray wing or dark
dressy occasions broad-brimmed chip, Leghorn,
or rustic straw hats are worn with oddly in
dented brims, and are trimmed with ribbon or
gauze and half wreath of flowers In colurs to
suit the dress. Thus pretty dress of pale blue
bunting is worn with white chip hat trimmed
with bluets and daisies; dress of ecru poagee,
made with washer-woman over-skirt and
peated blouse trimmed with ecru lace, has a
Leghorn Devonshire hat trimmed with cream
eolored gauze and deep red Jacqueminot roses
A white cross-barred muslin with pleated yoke
blouse and kilt skirt is trimmed with Smyrna
lace, and worn with plaid sash Of gray, black
and scarlet bars. The round hat is Of white
organdy muslin shirred on fine wire, and
trimmed with bows of ribbon like the sash.
AS the skirts Of girls dresses are worn quite
short, hosiery is chosen with reference to the
color of the dress. Solid-colored hosiery en-
broidered on the side is preferred to the barred
and plaided stockings. Blue and brown are
the favorite colors; red stockings are less popu-
lar than they were last season. Low shoes are
worn by young girls, but high buttoned boots Of
kid are better for them. as their ankles ara
weak and need the support Of close boots The
heels should bs low and broad.
The linen collars worn by young girls are
turned down all around, and are about two
inches wide. These are very trying for girls of
dark complexion, and in their place are used
standing frlls of muslin or narrow Valen-
ciennes lace. To wear with solid colored
dresses of blue flannel or of percale are collars
and cuffs of percale with colored figures on
white ground, such as a branch of scarlet coral,
or else blue zigzag lines. Small brooches for
the throat are slender bars of Etruscau gold,
engraved, or else with a line of turquoses
through the centre, or balls of pink coral A
prettily tied knot of ribbon is the favorite
cravat bow. Broad belts of morocco with an
tique clasps are to be worn with any dress, and
in many cases these have square bag sus-
pended. Silver filigree jswelry is also much
used by young girls. Their gloves are lace
mitts for incest wear and the long wristed
clocked lisle-thread for general use The wrap
most liked for cool days is an English Jacket of
blue or gray twilled cloth without vest, and
with three buttons buttoning the front to the
waist, instead OF only one.