The Portland daily press., 1878-04-26
ERMs $500 PER ANNUM, IN ADVANCE
IHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions,

New York Fashions.
New importatons of dresses from Paris illus
trate further the novelties announced last week.
10 combine with plain gros grain, Worth uses
tine spotted silks and those with stripes already
described. The spotted silks are all of one
shade, with small obong figures brocaded in
them; these are new for black silk costumes,
for evening silks of pale tints, and for wedding
dresses. 1t is not probable that they will be
generally worn, as they are not sufficiently
striking, but they will please fastidioas tastes,
and will rival the striped silks introduced in
the fall These have stripes OF satin an inch
wide alternating with heavily repped silk
stripes Of the same width, and may be all of
one color, but are often in contrasts, as mas
tic gray satin with beige silk stripes. or cream
with myrtle green, or pale blue with olive.
When brocades are used for very rich dresses
they are of small figures with delicate grounds,
as pearl gray with tiny buds OF blue and green,
or else quantity colored stripes, separate small
vines, or clusters of flowers. There are also
very soft silks with open lace-like stripes sepa-
rated by threads Of contrasting hues in Pompa-
dour colors. All these materials are used
merely for parts of dresses-never for an entire
costume.
Black silk dresses for the house are sent out
by Worth with basques and demi trained flow
ing skirts, with parts made of the new spotted
silk, and, by way of Frightening up the dress,
the gay wide brocaded belts which he adds to
the plainest toilette. Blouse fronts gathered
across are put in many of these black basques,
while others are merely round waists-that is,
cut off at the waist line-hnished by a wide
belt and cut square in the neck. The back Is
square basque simply piped, and the belt be-
gins in the seams under the arms. The spotted
silk appears in bias collar that descends low
on the breast around the square opening, and
forms the lower half Of the tightly fitted coat
sleeves. On the skirt the figured silk extends
straight down the front about quarter of q
yard in breadth. When the kilt-pleated sides
of plain silk are set in next the figured part,
they are crossed by wide panels Of spotted silk
edged with fringe. The back has three flowing
breadths for a train edged with narrow knife
pleating. Other black dresses from the same
modiste have pleatings of black satin down the
sides and on the train, also large satin knot at
the throat and on the back of the basque, which
has seams extending below the waist in Mar
guerite style. Some have the front OF the
basque ornameuted with shirred satin pieces
that give a blouse effect. Still others have
vests and short aprons, or else scarfs of figured
grenadins. Very small 6chus of the same gren-
adine, only large enough to cover the should
ers, are impo ready made to wear with such
dresses. The latest fancy, when color is intro
duced, is to have the bright Spanish shades Of
Tapped panels on the skirt, also 90 the vest aud
sleeves.
Beited habit basques are the waists most in
| favor with Partisan dress-makers for dresses of
various kinds-silks, white muslins, and also
woolen costumes. Many are cut off at the
waist line in front, and the belt Is very wide,
measuring from three to four inches at the
sides, where it is sewed In. If m sde of folds OF
silk the belt tapers narrower toward the mid
die, where mother-of-pearl buckle, or one OF
aiIu faafqna IN. faatanad
trfe toward the left side by buttons or By
g-looped bow of ribbon. The greater novel;
ty, however, is the wide brocaded belt ribbon
fastened by buckle. The back OF the basque
is without trimming in most instances. out
sometimes V of another fabric IS introduced,
and this V terminates In point at the waist,
instead of extending to the end OF the basque.
The newest eccentriclty Is TO invert this v, and
have it spread out like fan 10 pleats oelow the
waist, making the back look very broad Satin
pipings on the edge and two ornamental but
tons complete the PLAIN back. We have al
ready described the vests, Sompadour squares,
and blouse effects that are seen on the front.
Costumes of white muslin fof afternoon wear
are made with long princesse polonaises, with
Swiss insertion richly embroidered down every
seam. Beige-coored satin ribbons, shaded
through several tones, aie used N these day
toilettes; others have pink and cardinal togeth-
err or else cardinal and graen, or some other odd
combination of colors. Wide brocaded belts OF
many colors, with brocaded ribbons to cores
pond, are used oI other white Costumes.
The newest breakfast sscques to wear with
silk Slxrts are of thin white muslin made with
yokes, and pieated from the yoke down 10 back
and front. Very few are imported in the reg
ular sacque shapes. Everywhere Is shown the
| preference for fully pleated waists aud yokes.
| Some of thes have Malines lace laid haty on
the yoke as border, with the scslloped edge
turned upward, and nnder the lace is light blue
foulard. The peats are pressed fatty and af-
ter being sewed to the yoke they have but one
| more fastening to secure them and that is Q
| row of stitching across the waist line. Standing
! frills of crimped muslin and lace are around
the necS, and below this IS a deep collar, either
| PLAIN with lace edge or else closely shirred.
| When the torch0n lace is used on such sacques
| it is as fine and light as Valencienues. Pea
| shaped pearl buttons are used on these sacques,
To wear around the neck outside the street
wrap modistes have imported black net ker-
| chiefs or fchus with their edges embroidered
and finished with 'fy fringe" of tied tssses Of
| gay colors, such as pale blue with red and
| green or else beige with crimson. Paris muslin
| aud the tinted blue or pink silk-muslin necker-
| chiefs are wrought to show rose buds of natu-
raj colors Long lace scarfs, either black white
| or beige are shown again in Spanish lace and
will be tied low on the breast or crossed like
hchu. Pale blue fchus, large enough to reach
to the elbows, have borders and insertions Of
white Spanish blonde or of the new lace that is
embroidered on grsnadine.
White tulle wells dotted with chenille or with
pearls are the novelty for summer They are
in mask shape with a hem or else pearl fringe
on the edges
For the coiffure are real butterflies With all
their varied tints preserved and mounted on
silver fligree or gilt.
New combs for the back hair are no longer
high and towering, but show merely a single
row of jet, silver pearl beads that fit closely
around the front OF the coil, or the finger pntfs
| that are now worn far forward on the hair.
Another pretty ornament for the hair Is the
| Greek fillet of silver or gilt-a mere band-held
on by an elastic strap. Ladies' are making
these of black velvet studded with jet or with
gilt nailheads.
Ends of fine round point lace complete scarfs
of sheer linen cambria that are to be knotted in
the large sailor tie that is now worn at the
throat. Scarfs that pass around the neck are
not used, as most collars of dresses are sufici-
emily ornamental, many of them being cut out
in squares and piped around. English collars
of the dress material are finished with two or
three pipings or else with eating of lace
New chateaine fans have bird handles,a small
rad tanager or an orole being mounted on G.
hollow stem, in which is concealed a painted
silk fan. A tassel at one end draws out the
fan, while to the other end chatelaine hook
is fastened to attach the fan to the belt. Some
OF these fans are very unique in design, repre-
senting mammoth lead-pencil, or bottle of
perfume, or a ridiDg-whip: price So to S.
very fine linen cambria gathered by eight or
ten close rows Of shrring and are edged with
finely crimped Valenciennes lace in new de-
signs or else with Malines or very fine torchon.
The richest lace collars of duchesse or of Hon.
iton are very large and pointed back and
front. New fchus of crepe lsse are bordered
with embroidery in pale, delicate colors and