The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-11-22
[Harper's Bazaar I
New York Fashions.

AAC iutcSt lupOTldbluuS VI DUuuClS aKO StkAt
made up of two extreme shspes; that most gen.
orally used is the small close cottage bonnet,
while the dressy novelty is large, with fiaring
front that is indented in point in the middle
in genuine Marie Stuart style. The last fancy
is to put small ruche of curled ostrich feathers
inside this pointed and faring brim as face
trimming. Another caprice, just introduced
from Paris, is fril of black tulle edged with
gilt put in quite full inside the front Of black
velvet bonnets. The leading milliners say they
have fewer calls for black bonnets than for
colored ones Instead of getting black velve'
bonnet and wearing it with all her dresses, q
lady now gets at least one colored bonnet, chos-
en- in reference to her handsomest dress, and
also as a contrast to other suits. The red
shades are most in demand for stylish visiting
toilettes, white bonnets for receptions, and COL
ored felts-not black-for general wear. Gray
felts are very popular; they are used for nice
occasions during the autumn, and for second
bonnets later in the winter. The smooth
French felts and ths rough camel's-hai felts
are equally stylish.
Bonnets with shirred brims are new and
promise to be popular in black and other dark
velvets. For full dress are white or garnet
striped velvet bonnsts, made with q shirred
brim and curtain. The crown is then of soft
white tule covered with the new dark red
roses of large size crushed together across the
top, while the back of the crown has crimson
velvet autumn leaves. Some small tips are
added, and the strings are of tulle or lace.
The small bonnets worn in the streets have
the Asacsn bow of gay ribbon, reversible,
.k-. ID oil Ruf thaoa haAN
familiar, the Partisan hats come with feather
breasts across the top, and this bow placed low
down on the right side. A large -beaked bird
in the shaded greens and red and blue seen in
cashmere colors is placed on the left side Of
handsome bonnets. Among the most tastef ul
ribbons for nice falt and velvet bonnets are
those with satin on one side while the other is
watered. Ladies who make their own bonnets
have black velvet perfectly plain on . becom-
ing frame, and put pale pink crushed roses,
either eight or ten, in a double row Just across
the top where an Alsacian bow would be
placed. The only other trimming is the strings
OF black satin ribbon, with pink on the wrong
side, and perhaps a bee, lizard or butterfly Of
tinsel set on the curtain. The newest wells are
masks of fine black or white tulle that seem
sprinkled over with gold dust.
stiff pique and Marseiles Gabrielles formerly
worn by very small girls. The yoke slips and
sacque dresses, either pleated or plain, or white
nansoox, provided for the first short clothes,
furnish designs for these up to four or five
years of age. These were illustrated as the
Child's Wardrobe, and described at length In
Bazaar No.. 43, Vol. Xl. To wear over these
white dresses in the winter are long slender
sacque cloaks of fine, soft, yet very thick cloth
made in the plsinest way and the only orna-
ment admissible is deep collar, cuffs. and
pockets of velvet of contrasting color. Gray
is the fashionable color for dress cloaks, with
sapphire blue or else garnet velvet, and large
pearl buttons either tinted to match the velvet
or white. Brown cloth is also used. and some
times the buttons are large bullet shape and of
blue steel. The collar is deep square, almost
like yoke. The cloth is known as camefs-
hair cloth and though very thick, il is pliable
and soft enough to be comfortable for babes
eighteen months old; these small sizes cost
from SIS to S18; for larger girls they are $25.
Palmer sacque coaks are Of the dark English
homespun cloths that are mixed gray on the
outside and plaid or striped on the wrong side.
Economical mothers are putting colored
dresses on their girls earlier than was formerly
the custom, and the furnishing houses are sup
plying most useful and cunning little gar
ments. Very dark colors are selected, though
few of the sombre brown suits once so fashion,
able are now seen. There a great many gray
wool dresses, bat they are invariably bright
ened with one of the new red shades. Garnet
is in especial favor when combined with pale
blue, and there are various bright contrasts.
The plaids are very much used in small bars of
green with blue, and these invariably have
many gay bows Of ribbon, some of the loops
being dark green with garnet, or else navy blue
with cardinal The gray suits are of rough
camel's-hair mixed with corduroy and piped
with red silk. Dark green dresses have pin
dots or specks of red and of pale blue and are
trimmed with green silk faced with red. Scarce
ly a dress is without some CLINT of color in
hvsr 4 In 0roa Al ma INV
of velvet are used, especially on the lovely
brocades Of mixed silk and wool; these bro
cades are in very small figures representing
tiny stars, leaves, olives or small flower such
as the foIget-me-not These rever5 are often
ornamentsd with row of buttons, beside
which are mock butten-holes made Of fine silk
piping usually of contrasting color IL brown
dresses are chosen they must be the seal brown
which has great deal of red in it; the plum
cOlOred dresses are also very rich.
The simplest way of making up these woolen
dresses for very small girls is in a Gabrielle
shape, fastened behind, and finished off around
the bottom with kilt-pleating, the head Of
which is covered by sash Of folded silk; the
sash passes all around the figure far down be-
low the hips, is sewed there permanently, and
fastened with large knot or q loop and ends
behind. This is useful dress in small plaids,
and if for general wear the sash should also be
of wool. Down the middle of the front are
three or four bows-the first beginning at the
throat-made of red ribbon mixed with green
or blue, or whatever color prevails in the plaid.
Very pretty plaid dresses are shown in a
shane that is suitable for q boy or girl. The
back is plain prncesse shape, finished, as all
plaid dresses are, with kilt-pleating, while the
front has a cut-away jacket set on, and the
dress front is balted. This is made 10 dark
plaids with stitched edges, and sold for $12.
The regular princesse dresses of plaid or PLAIN
wooeDs are made for the smallest girls and
now have yoke in the back, with double
breasted front trimmed by two or even three
rows of gilt buttons, else the back is cut off
as basque and finished out to the proper length
with side pleating, which may be silk or else
like the dress. 1t is quite usual to form each
division of the back into loop turned under
and pped on the edges; this finishes the basque
prettily.
} Larger girls, from four years up to twelve.
have some pretty new styles, in nearly all OF
which the yoke, the kilt or the cut-sway coat
appears. novelty called the blouse dress has
a yoke in front and behind to which all the re-
| mainder of the dress is attached; a belt at the
waist confines it in shape. Toe fronts are set
on to the yoke with plea9s, also the back. and
| these give fulness enough for the skirt. Where
il ia nlain on the sides the skirt is trimmed tn