The New York herald., 1878-03-03
small consolation to know now, II could un.
derstand It. Yours faithfully, L. B. A. HARPER.
PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS OF POPE
LEO Kill

TOWN OF PERUGIA-GENIAL AND TENDER
REGARD OF THE NEW POPE FOR HIS OWN
| PEOPLE AND sTRANGERs-wHAT MAY BE
EXPECTED OF HIM.
An American lady. now resident in Washington
d. c.. sends TO tho HERALD the following interesting
"reminiscences Cardinal Pecc the present Pope, Leo
| KILL, whom sho knew some years ago when ne was
tne Cardinal Archbishop OF Perugis, and when she
and her daughter months lived In that quaint
| old Italian town. She writes:-
The winter and spring OF 1870 were passed by US In
| Rome. II was q memorable time, Tor II was the
year Of great Ecumcnlcal Council, and Interested
in its deliberations and In the wonderful concourse
brought together that time, remained there until
the great July drove away. We selected Tor
summer home the quaint old town OF perugia, SO
OF art Strange say unless oil very late years, this
charming old town Is seldom selected as permanent
does near the railway, between Isomo Florence,
those who visit II remain there but lew days, except
ing now and artist who fingers there Tor tho
ane pictures OF Pcrugno aud other Umbrian artists,
tho beautiful wood carvings designed by lsaphael
| Tho early ircsco Of Raphael IN The Convent San
| Severe. OF pictures by Raphael there Ie but lew
no~ ss and os Of the D
sold 10 the Russian Emperor during our stay IN fo-
Tor very large sum, the owner being obliged 10
spirit IL away during the night because The inhabi-
tants OF rcruga were indignant that they should
lose tho last great picture OF their great master.
| This old town, famous IN tho history OF bygono
days. has this time interesting to The whole
Catholic world. having been tor many years the homo
OF the preseut Pontn formerly Cardinal Pecc Arch
| bishop Of Perugia, and Leo Kill Peruga is
snguarIy situated and around steep hill, over
looking broad plain, through which the Tiber winds
| IL is about u mte from station The only wido
leads through OF tho old gates OF tho town.
the porta Munzia makes u half circuit Of the hill
| aud comes out upon the top broad corso
| winch ends In a double square. Most of the other
the town itself arc steep and narrow and
| only passable for foot passengers and mules The
corso many tine buidings-palaces OF tho old ars-
| tocracy of this ancient city. The great piazza or
Tim nj nuSn the
sdc the Cathedral OF San Iorenzo fine Gothic build
ing OF Tho hftcon.h century, having what is now rarely
seen near OF doors the outside OF tho build
| ing q pulpit, from which formerly sermons were
| preached to tho crowds In the public square,
| Hero the great preacher San Bernardn0 da Massa
Is said to addressed the crowds collected TO hear
him. Opposite this entrance Is fountain noarly six
ovor erected IN Italy ornamented with beautiful
carvings Giovanni da Pisa. On tho other sido OF
the church, tho centre OF the second square, Is tho
beautiful bronze sitting statue OF that grand old Pom
| lin, julius H., crowned with tho tiara, the right
hand raised, giving benedction that one foes would
| remain forever, or, as hawthorne says lone might
hope 10 eel quietly descending upon the need or the
distress that ne had closest at his heart"
The grand old Cathedral once possessed many tine
pictures, which have been taken from 1t during the
Italian revolution and transferred 10 the picture gall
| iery of tho town, Tor which the churches con.
ve.ts have been pllaged But the greatest loss was
that OF tho magnificent picture by Raphael oi the
DN tho rrsDcO .sS wno soa0s
only copy, which now fills The place from which she
original was taken. Opposite the Cathedral stands
one OF the most interesting town halls IN Italy On
the wall over the principal entrance Is the griffin
blem OF Perugia The great Gothic doorway Is elab.
ornament, with the columns supporting tho
| arch resting on tho backs OF huge grifips
seen on the lover floor is the Exchange lsaIa dol
! CamDio), with small chapel adjoining formerly
still bright with Color aud glowing with tho genius Of
PoruRLO great mastcr OF Raphael In this limited
oannSs me ne ser ss's Su. %o.s ro
which one must feel that Raphael drew sonac
OF the inspiration Tor his own great picture.
Perusno Peru, o. himself quite unIiko our IDEAS Of
the old painter Ia tho grand old hall In the third
story Of the Sala della Preottura there still
manning lrescocs by Bonagli, tho master OF Perugino
himself On the side OF the square between the Town
Hall and tho Cathedral stands the line old palace Of
tho Cardinal Archbishop, three stories In height,
building Of great architectural beauty. We went
re.uss so, ns sseS. SoSs ssrS
had ofion seen Cardinal Pecci, bu. had never
met nun, and therefore had carried away
Ooen whispered, even at that day, that he was
to be the Pope that We were not little sur
visit from ono tho prelscs OF the Cardinals house
hold who had received directions from HIS Emnence
call upon and offer US all those KIND courtescs
which are SO welcome IN a strange land Through
| mutual fricnd-one OF the CardinAls-his Eminsnco
had learned o our intended residences OF some months
| discussions and anxious deliberations OF tho
las. exciting weeks % Of tho Council he had
strangers ut Perugia and TO direct that every
| courtesy and kindness should be shown How
bright our days there werc made by this thoughtful
nessi Everything beautiful In art, Cue old pic
lures rare old missas all the treasures Of the old
libraries, &c, filed as they were with interest,"
were thrown open to u.s. and made that summer one
Of the most memorable OF our lives
During the weeks before the close OF the Council
the Cardinal often his letters TO his prolate in
quired kindly as to our enjoyment, and whether he
still continued TO aid he had been directed 10 do
The Council adjourned; the world now knows Its de-
cisons Few those who were In Rome or It's vcin-
ty knew great the strain had been on the health
OF the distinguished who took part IN Its debera
| tions Most OF them were past middle lie, upon
! whom the dcbitating effects OF tho Roman climate
| aud an unusually warm summer had been very iDJu-
rious And these effects had boon increased by tho
| exciting and anxious discussion OF one Of the most
| important dogmas OF the Catholic faith.
A few days alter the CARDINALS return we called to
| thank him, and TO Tor the lrst time one who had
bocn SO thoughtfuly kind toward Two unpro-
tcnding, quiet Americans. In most minds in our
own country and often, too Europe 1t Is supposed
that the cardinas Of tho Church live most luxurious
lives. 1t Is grcat mistake; the most simple, quiet
lives arc often led by those devoted prelates II Is
true position Princes OF the Church has
In the past required state and ceremony In
puDiic, but IN private lfo OF those have been
SO fortunate to thcy have been as humble and
% ss any VIDE ah Of !.
second story, conducted through succession
OF rooms, Is usual in Italian palaces, all OF them
being handsome large rooms with lofty ceilings but
unosen furnished, reaching finally snalior
one, evidently tho study. with writing table, &c I,
time that had met him, and OF course the impress
sion OF visit is not forgotten We ielt that wc
not only To moot one VINO uuu Ooeu very kluu
| u.s. but also that we see, had boon often
! inIimated by members OF the Papal household at
Romc tho probable SUCCESSOR OF Pius TX. The Csrdi-
nal and toward US as We entered the room.
| Ho wore knoc brooches with scarlet stockings, and
shoos with broad gold buckles; his cAssock
was dark with a scarlet cord tho edge.
On the back OF his head he had a small scarlet cap
concealing his rather thin and slightly gray har
lie gold chain with tho cross, tho symbol Of
| his bishoprio. he was OF tall, slignt form, with
dignined carriage; somewhat ascetc IN appearance,
aud who had not known how kind he could be,
| his manner might have seemed rather naughty and
| cold. This howover, soon passed away. He had q
broad, intellectual b'ow clear, blue eye and large,
| nrm mouth which Droko into pleasant smile as he
| spoke. Ho struck us as man OF rare intellectual
force, and among his late 1ocK AZ Peruga nc IL loved
| and rcvcred IA devout ana On ristian bishop.
How kindly and thoughtiuIly he Interested himself
enjoy OF The great objects OF interest In
his dear Pcrug Fatigucd aud worn as he was by all
the wearsome iabors Of the Council, aud the great
dangers then threatening old Romc ana tho
Pontrs power, still he never during our stay coascd
L ~ Nd Al lIla4 INN