The Vancouver independent. (Vancouver, W.T. [Wash.]) 1875-1910, 1878-10-10

hard, and glossy as flint, it is made to
keep. Nlildew may attack, but it can
not deteriorate it. 1t is made for the
month, and warranted to last. And so
it would in an American household, for
no one would eat it, but in Switzerland
it is considered delicious, and yet the
Swiss are better cooks than the French
or Germans. The laws which govern
their cuisine are based on science and
tempered by Italian skill. They never
mix dishes, never offend the stomach,
or attempt to cheat the season by offer
ing a cats liver as pate. If you are
to eat a horse-steak, you are informed
beforehand of the ordeal through which
you are to pass.
The Swiss are essentially an honest
people, and as their lives are honest,
so also are their wines. Finding that
the fair interfered with the regular din
ner for travellers, the driver pressed on
to Sallenches, passing through the
towns of Cluses and Maglan. As we
found we must leave Bonneville with
out delay, we took hasty look at the
column, five feet high, erected in honor
of Carlo Felice. Crossing the bridge;
the road passed between the base of the
Mole and Mont Brezon, which bounds
the Arve valley on the right. But
new road has been built directly under
the Brezon, until it crosses the Arve
by fine stone structure, and Cluses is
reached.
This very old town boasts its watch
makers who compete with the Genevese.
Indeed from this little unkempt town
to Lyons, to Augsburgh, and to Strass-
burg, have migrated some firms of
highest reputation. Journeylng on
through grand Alpine detiles, the road
passes beneath precipices, which seem
ready to overwhelm one with their
frowning sides, as the diligence races
along on its way to Maglan, which is
on the right of that same restless, racing,
turbid little Arve. Beneath lovely
mountains, in among trees and flowers
and fruit, is this vagabond village of
think a good place to migrate from.
The hum of the bee, the noise of the
cascade, the echo of the mountain, and
the flow of the Arve, however, the tru
ant finds it hard to forget, and many
one dreams of this home for weary
years in a foreign land.
As one leaves Maglan, and gets be-
yond its last cbdlet, the road is seen
through wider part of the valley, to
touch almost on the Nant d Arpenaz.
which is said to be one of the highest
waterfalls in Savoy. It's fall is zig gag;
tumbling down to the road, it passes
under a bridge into the devouring
Arve. All the way from this point the
valley widens. From Sallenches, to
the base of the everlastingly beautiful
Douron, are spread lovely fields, smil-
ing in the light of the sun. Women
, and men are seen at work, hardly turn
ing their heads to look at the full dill
gence as it speeds by, so intent are they
on making hay while the sun shines"
Directly are seen the peaks of the Va
rens, which are aid to rise eight thou
sand feet above the sea. 1t is glori
Gus sight, and once seen can never be
forgotten. although it is eclipsed by the
view of Mont Blanc as beheld from the
bridge There also can be seen pine
clad Forclaz, and still above it rise
Aiguillc de Goute, Dome de Goute.
and twelve miles beyond the summit of
the highest mountain in Western Eu-
rope. Before reaching it, the diligence
lands its hungry crowd at Sallenches
Two of the party have fallen into deep
slumber, induced by the sublime
scenery. the mountain air, or possibly
something in the construction of their
brains averse to the sense of sublimitv.
After tumbling down the impromptu
steps of the diligence, one must climb
up the not very firm steps of Sallen-
ches hotel. Then on up to the second
floor, where a long table is spread in
front room, and where the host is al
ready carving stcaminG hot boiled
fowls. ham, and tongue. Rice, delight
fully boiled, peas, beans, potatoes, and
salad, are there. And in front Of each
guest is bottle of pure rim ordmdire.
In the centre OF the table is vase of
wild flowers. and through the middle,
all along, are ranged fancy dishes of
figs, almonds. raisins. Three or four
pretty mattresses are in attendance, and
in spite of lunch which we had taken
of fruit bought at Bonneville, we made
a hearty meal, wine included, for which
we paid the modest sum OF five francs.
Into the diligence again, and on the
way TO St. Gervais in the gorge of the
Bon Nant, and so on. Above the spread
of the valley Of the Arve, all the way
along, are stupendously magnificent
views. The road takes curve, and at
a great height along the bank OF wild
torrent, there are views almost appal
ling in their grandeur. Just beyond
Servoz the road crosses the raging
Dioz, and is close to the Bresen. Then
on the top OF steep ascent we are on
the second ridge, as il were, of the val
ley OF the Arye, very near to Mont