The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-01-20
DAME FASHIONS DICTUM.
Midwinter Dress Materials, Trim
mings and Styles.
GLOVES AND SHOES.
Fashionable Mourning Garments and How
They Should Be Worn.

The new combinations OF material and devices o.
style which fashion has dedicated to the opening OF
the new year must please every one When the Ange
OF the Flowers in graceful apologize, asked the rose
under which he mad lain sleeping TO mention one
charm 1t did possess IL asked that veil oil moss
might be thrown about it-a charm that wouid seem
TO be repeated in the trimming OF costumes whether
In brocades embroidery beaded passementerie or gar
looms Among the partial changes OF costume Is that
of gathered skirts with deep and close drawn plats.
Softness and warmth in union with the greatest
possible lightness are chiefly looked to In materials
woollen or mixed woollen fabrics necessarily take
the lead for outdoor costumes Bourettes win Six
favorte combination for over dresses; also striped
woolens with sat!n twceds with coiored stripes ana
cashmere, one kind OF which has nne fur nnisn.
The most expensive materials OF this variety are rep
resented TO be OF India manufacture, the product Of
which they made being similar TO that used IN
cashmere shawls. For 81 yard the buyer Will hnd
in leading stores here plum bronze and dark green
cashmeres OF handsome quality. peculiar SHADE oil
red maroon a decided favorte In cashmere, as il
combines han dsomely with ribbons OF the shade,
faced either with cream color, tleul very pale
blue.
American bourettes are among the low priced ana
popular materials for midwinter. The shades are
similar to those seen in imported goods OF the same
character, and the double width is sold for 81 yard.
Cheviots, all wool and twilled, are much finer and
softer than the fabric usually designated by this
name. These suitings three-quarers OF yard In
width and sell for sixty and seventy cent? yard. 1t
is, however, better economy to buy double-iold fab
RIGS, such as the tissue Bengale, at So yard and
iorty-eight inches wide. Domestic snitings OF the
bourette variety have perfection OF manufacture
and durability of color. So-caIled cancels hair cloth
is in much request.
Ia m LYONS
achieved greater triumph than in tho silk materials
offered. Figured. faxed, paided, striped ana spotted
find their place in Dress together with velvet in out
door. dinner reception and visiting costumes satin
brocatel, satin plush and striped silks are evening
dresses, Tor which plain silk is worn for underskirs.
ExcELLEscE AMERICAN FABRICS
The American manufacture Of all .'silK armure' Is
OF the desirable of all textile fabrics. These
goods made of double twisted spun silk
thread III the filing and in the warp and will wear
like iron, always appearing new and beautiful Price,
81 90 per yard. A vcriiable oddity among new Co.'S
tune materials is called mosaic tissue, with fringe
Bronze, brown and indescrbable shadings Of these
colors distinguish this fabric, which is woven
with plain interval OF inch, succeeded by a
frnged interval OF the width. The effect Is that
OF Tom Thumb fringe sewed the widths at inch
length distances and each OF fringe falls above
aspace and vice versa the effect is extremely odd
THIS MOSAIC tissue is the most peculiar of the
materials introduced this season, both in color and
figure Its width is twenty four inches and tho price
SIS yard.
At present the evident purpose Of those who con-
troll the operations OF fashion 10 the production Of
STYLES which will represent beauty without exaggera-
ton orvulgarity. striking proof Of this intention
is seen in thointroducuon OF Princess forms, which
DO not ADMIT OF trimming, but which are not
Of
tcrials.
4 STYLISH PoLoNAIsE.
The eElfride," tor example, is handsome model
for a dinner reception dress at home II may be
made In hne soft caneas hair and trimmed with silk
velvet, or, more expensivey STILL in armure silk
faced with satin. Thedrnge should match the coors
In the fabric, and the buttons must be small and
with the silk, velvet or satin that constitutes
the trimming.
THE '.HoNoRA.r
This supplies elegant design for an overskirt
we'll adapted soft r<erals, 1t drapes gracefully
md outlines the figure without suggesting any un-
tighness restriction 1t Is well adapted for
soft damasse Tor crepe de chine, and may also be
used most appropriately cashmere all wool pege
but the trimming in THIS should be fringe ofwool
with heading OF silk to snatch the bands the "Dcl-
phinc" basque, which very styshiy goes with it.
This basque and overskirt together may be made up
in any spring materials, they strictly in
ance with the tendency OF fashion, ana good and
permanent models Tor continued wear.
The famous "cardir.al" robe has been In Paris
at some of the fashionable dinners. Whether this
extremely bright red color Will come into favor
say until the season becomes somew hat moro
advauced The tune IL very long. open IN 'front.' ana
entirely without ornsnentation, with the exception
oil very small Hat buttons.
RECEPTION DRESS.
An elegant toilet, all black, has Just been CON-
pleted in which Lyons velvet, brocaae silk and plain
black SILK are combned The ''Clotde'' train Is very
long ana fails squire at the back. The foundation OF
the front Is PLAIN silk, finished the bottom by
hounce OF velvet and silk combncu and further
trimmed by two broad sashes OF Drocade silk,
trimmed with rich chenille and CLAIR dc luDe
fringe, and crossed ,nagonally reaching almost from
top TO bottom. The aies are ornamented with broad
OF the brocaoe trimmed with pIpings velvet
and large buttons OF black velvet and clair do June
beads, and are caught together ut the back by bow
OF black velvet The entire back of the train is OF
PLAIN SILK without trimmings, and tails In regular
plaits below the bow, which connects the revers.
The "Noriup' basque has the back pieces brocadc,
tho long sideorms OF silk. the short OF velvet
tho front OF silk collar sleeves and sasn OF velvet
aud trimmed the bottom by OF passc-
menterIe embroidered WITH clair do lune BEADS.
Through the collar aud cuis Iolds OF tho
paest blue SATIN, terminating in bows shaded with
black thread lace
FOR THE PROMENADE
An exceedingly stylish short walking costume is
arranged with dress dark brown woolen noigcng.
The skirt Is kit plated all the way around and Just
reaches the ground Tue "Erine" paetot rs trim ed
with marten lur ana heavy tcrle and
pleted by ssCarrIckn cape. Ihe nun should match
trimmed with velvet For street wear, Tor travelling
Tor whatever requires service thcre is constantly
increasing tendency to simplify and reduce to the
most practical basis. Many LADIES' now have with
every street or travelling costume bonnet or hat
en- suite of the material Of the dress, whether that
is silk or wool, and trimmed IN the sim
pIest manner. Ii the costume Is for the
street It VIII probably, IL all wool, be trimmed
with silk or velvet and then the bonnet
may be made OF the inDnc used In trimming,
have perhaps SOFT crown and psrtake OF the Nor
mandy shape or have a mere band for brIm. II the
suit Is IN all wool diagonal tweed, intended Tor
rough usage. the material VIII DO drawn plain a
hat shape, "Derby' or "roque," bound with silk
galloon aud trim med with SILK cords and tasscis
II lady has an accommodating drcssmaker or Is
clever enough TO fashion herown clothing from paper
patterns she anoro several such outfits, ana may
lnen keep her ''arcss" bonnet hat Tor best
IionE.
TAILLEUk
This title Is given 10 cloak much In vogue just
1t present. 1t Is cut and finished oil with the greatest
care as garniuro Whatever - admissible the sole
ornament consists Of several OF stitching round
tho edges To its masculine style OF cut ana TO tho
OF all trimming IS due the name gwen to this