Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1878-10-18
FOR TIE FAIR SEX.
FRshIon Notea.

- EeLh1Ita - nNAnllCu
frOuis of wide lace collars.
Velvet cuffs are pointed and have but.
tons aud mock buttonholes
Long belt clasps, extending almost
half around the waist, are worn.
Side-combs, 50 long banished, are
again worn by ladies, old and young.
Corduroy velvet will be largely used
for the underskirts of winter costumes.
Gold and silver braid will be used on
new costumes, especially for the pipings
of bias bands.
Handsome mourning dresses are made
Of white camel's hair, and are trimmed
with Russian lace.
A new freak of fashion shows the dol
man with double skirt. It is not near
lyas pretty as the graceful single-skirted
dolman.
Vest fronts are seen on many Of the
new imported dresses; some of them are
composed entirely of the plaitiDgs, or of
close rows of shirring.
The panier has resolved itself into
very small dimensions, aud consists in
the slight looping or draping of the
back breadths of the overdress.
The tight-6tting coat sleeve remains
in favor, and is now made with slight
gathering at the elbow, which makes it
much more comfortable to wear.
Bead fringes will be used in trimming
hats and bonnets this winter. Those in
old gold tipped with ruby, emerald or
sapphire promise to be the favorite.
Short walking dresses are destined to
be the rule. 1t is the fashion in Paris,
and the fact is only preliminary to its
general adoption ON this side of the
ocean.
Small round "toques of velvet will
be worn as round hats or bonuets: these
have the new ornament in the shape of
a dagger of French gilt, set with cut
steel or jet.
Novel garniture for both bonnets and
hats is shown in bands, and mount
ed clnb-shaped pieces of pheasant's and
peacock S feathers, in the natural and
cashmere colors.
One of this seasons new French bon.
nets is of felt, with very high square
crown; the brim and the crown are slit
up on either side, and then laced up
with gilt or silk cord.
The peculiar novelty of the present
mode in cloaks is the double-skirted
"Dolman," wrap which gives the
effect of "Dolman mantle, worn over
deep, sleeveless sacque.
Bullet-shaped buttons come in colored
pearl, in brass, in steel, and crocheted
in colors and in black, for winter dresses.
When two colors appear in the dress
gods, the round silk button is of the
lighter color, nearly covered with GRO
cbeted netting of the darker shade.
Embroidered garments will be i'm
ported for next season. This fashion of
dress identifying is all the rage in Paris,
and hence we have coming to us en-
broidered lace, bands and materials of
all sorts richly embellished with exquis-
lite needlework The whole vocabulary
OF f)sseI, in all their numerous eyes,
will he brought into use, since all sorts
OF floral designs and Greek scroll work
Will be represented.
The Idol OF the Cafe Chantant.
a Paris correspondent writes as fol-
lows: The marriage and retirement OF
the French singer Theresa drops the
curtain on tableau of happiness which
closes the public career of one OF the re-
markable women of the time. Theresa
was once little female gan,in of the
streets, alwaye hungry but happy, until
tue frequenters of the cafes began to
know her as beautiful singer of senti-
mental songs. She was, however, only
mediocre, and in the interval of her en-
gagements was hardly less prosperous
than she had been in childhood. AS q
singer, she is now known as a popular
upholder of Napoleon I'LL, with whom
the monarch. in gratitude, held more
than one interview, leaving her each
time handsome souvenir of the honor
he had bestowed.
The style which Theresa invented,
which brought her at last fortune
worth $4,000 year, has long been
studied by every ca60tine of the Eau
bourgs, for to those who can catch it, it
is thought, in the imaginations of the
street artists, to be the sure open sesame
to fortune. The wonderful trick was to
sing a sentimental song in grotesque
manner, to deride the sentimentality and
affectation of the French people.
Her first great success was achieved
by happy accident. At supper of
Bohemians of the Stage she sang "The
Flower of the Alps" a sentimental song,
as burlesque, and everybody was con-
vulsed with laughter, except little
manager, who remained perfectly seri-
GUS. He saw a great success in it, and
took Theresa for an engagement of a
month at good salary. She crazed
Paris from that moment; and no man
who has ever been in Paris since that
time for ten days will fail to remember
her.
Her success went on increasing, both
In fame and in substantial results, from
that time. She had discovered the law
OF her own popularity in the willingness
of the Parisians to have mockery made
of the maudlin pathos which had long
since ceased to draw their tears. She
Knocked it, therefore, with all the venom
OF her hate of calling that had never
brought in bread, laboriously perfecting
her eccentricity of voice and gesture and
all her tricks of comic surprise. The
resa represents phase of French char.
acter by the success of the ridicule she
heaped on it, and she essentially be-
longs to the second empire. She also
stands remarkable as wise woman.
She knew when to retire; and it is to be
hoped that her cottrge and husband will
compensate for her lack of applause.
A California Fortune.
Rich mems fortunes are nearly ALWAYS