The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1878-02-16
Review Of Fashions.

THERE are several things which 90
to make up what is called good taste in
dress: form, color, quality, adaptable
ty or becomingness, and, more than all,
that discrimination which stands for re-
straint. Without the latter, everything
is likely to be sacrifice to mere novel
ty, there will be no honorable retreat
for waning charms in dark colors and
old lace, and low-necked dresses, beau
tiful for the white shoulders of girls in
their first seasons out, will upon elderly
matrons recall the remark of the por
trait-painter that he priced variety of
scenery quite as much as if he worked
at landscapes. As the present is the
social season of the year, full-dress
toilets are of special interest, and, if
special fancy inclines to extremes, these
may be looked for in evening costumes.
While the princesse form still holds the
first place in favor, great number of
dresses made in this manner are decid-
edly low in the neck, and these are worn
by young married ladies as well as
those still more youthful. Plain prin-
cesse models as well as those which
have .simulations of basques, etc, serve
for this purpose, and the shape of the
low-cut neck is a matter of taste or be-
comingness. Occasionally the back of
the dress is somewhat high and square,
and the front is very low and built up
to surplice shape with frills of tulle
Round necks, too, are once more Sin
fashion, and are drawn up high upon
the shoulder like the old-fashioned
spencer waist worn by children, the CEN
tiers, front and back, being very low.
All such waists or necks to waists are
built up to proper height by puffs of
lace with ribbon and flowers mingled;
the garniture is carried over the shoulder
and from below the short sleeve appears.
All short sleeves are longer than they
have been for several seasons. Belts
are also worn with princesse dresses,
and those for evening toilets, made
rather wide, are composed of folds of
satin, harmonizing with or matching
the dress material, laid in narrow folds
and fastened either with flat bow which
is a continuation of the belt pleats, or
else by silver slide or buckle. Pompa-
dour and surplice-shaped necks con-
tinue to appear upon princesse dresses,
and are the chosen shapes for dresses
of heavy materials.
Polonaises with skirt-eXtensions APP
pended are, if possible, more liked than
| they ever have been for demi-toilet,
and for handsome dresses made of two
fabrics, such as silk and velvet. The
freshest fancy for polonaises is the wide
belt, which extends only from the darts
to the center-front, or at the most from
under the arm. Only slender figures
wear these belts very wide; all of them
are fastened with buttons, studs, or
some fancy ornament, which it is most
convenient to fasten permanently on the
belt, with the real hook-and-eye fasten-
ing on the inside.
Basques with overskirt simulations
are much demanded by young ladies
just at present, this form of dress being
well adapted to the figured gauzes, etc,
which are worn over light silks. Vests,
which match in fabric the center of the
apron overskirt or drapery, are seen in
basques which are low in the neck or
ladies are becoming tired of diagonal
draperies, the "apron" or front breadth
of the simulated overskirt is Topped
drapery made highest at the sides, or it
is laid in points at the center, and each
is trimmed with lace or beautiful APP
pliques of chenille or silk placed on lace
foundations. Fringes of flowers and
grasses, and the new laminee fringes,
are also among selected trimmings.
Whatever form of drapery is chosen for
the front of costume at present, the
back is as correct a copy of the princess
form as it can be made. Only the
plainest and simplest draperies are adj
mired.
Sleeves are as small as may be worn
with comfort, and slight fullness at
the elbow is required for durability. In
some cases ladies have the cuffs of
sleeves made separate, that they may
be the more easily replaced by white
cuffs. The necks of best dresses are
also finished with narrow bias bindings,
and separate collars of silk or velvet or
the dress material are supplied for oc-
casions, as rufus, Pierotte collars, and
rich articles of lace are becoming more
and more popular.
Just at this quiet season of the year
there is revival of Breton-shaped pol
onaises and basques, which are made
up in fine cashmeres and bourette
cloths, trimmed with silk upon the first
and velvet upon the latter. These trim
minos are in the form of bands, dotted
along the edges with cut jet beads.
Silver buttons are used upon such gar
ments, and narrow bands of plush, piped
with satin or finished with a narrow
outline of silver braid, are also much
admired. Plush trimming is often ac-
companied by plush buttons with silver
centers, also by frog buttons about the
size of date seed. A heavy winter
toilet of olive bourette over skirt of
olive silk is made as follows: The skirt
has two narrow side-pleatings of silk
with an inch-wide bias of corded plush,
sometimes called plush corduroy, for
heading. The polonaise cut in Breton
form has the centers banded across at
intervals with plush bands, Joined by
silver buttons. Plush appears at the