The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-06-17

/ AND WHAT rs BOUGHT BY THE TRADE
INVESTING IN LACE on IN GOVERNMENT
BONDS.
PARIS, June 2. 1878.
In former 'etter an account was gven Of somo Of
she lace manufacturing centres OF France TO this
was added description Of some OF The best speci-
msus exhibited the French court 81 tne Champ do
Mars In . different section is separate and large
Tor Belgian laoss belonging TO tho best firms In
Paris tor Belgian lace generally exhibited BY man
uia0turers on their account. This court is some
what of the limo OF the Pays Bias gal
iery. The censre 10 reserved Tor two glass
cabinets, not unlike temples for tho worship
point by Parisiennes. Around are the cases con-
tanning goods from Ypres, Courlrai, Ghent Anvers
Ulsene and other localities Brussels lace has ever
since the fifteenth century, been PRICED BY magnaes
and the powers that rule over empires and Kingdoms
It was formerly donated by muniacent sovcregns to
caihedras Ind ancient. churches. In our days VEIL
shawl ouncss robe OF Brussels point Is considered
regal gift An examination OF the specimens exhibited
shows that, although made all over Belgium, II Is
best made Brussels ITSELF Other cities IN this in
dustrous are In close comp6titon with tho CAPT
tai but either the flax used elsewhere IL OF different
quality the same care may not DO taken IN spn-
ming H. or there may the same strange fact
noticed In France--no Two localities with the same
materials produce the same MAKE
HOW IT WAS MADE.
The spinning process excessively minute In Bel
GUM, tho thread being SO line that it escapes the
sight and The sense Of touch solely relied
on. A practised spinner works in tho lower
floor OF her tenement when not underground.
as exposure TO dry air rcnders her fax
thread apt to snan. All the daylight available pro-
cceds through an iugenlously contrved opening,
which casts 1t iut ON her work. Every ccn.imere OF
tho 1ax drawn from The disinG presses through her
sensitive refined and DISCERNING ouch The wheel Is
stopped II the slightest unevennesa is perccp,ible
The hand made reseaM. or groundwork, II was which
formerly rendered Brussels point SO valuable It's
pc secession envied In England that quantities
were smugged in, and later, with Wow TO evado
law, sold more as 'point d'Angletcrrc. usurped
designation that prevailed Tor years when England
had no genuine laco of her own she has now Honi-
ton. Before machine made net Was Invented Zoo
were made out Of one pound Of, Brabant grown *
POINT LACE.
Flowers of Brussels point are now dpptfqued on
tullc resea groundwork. They are either executed
with tho needle pillow made. II iE the former
instance, flowers called points; II in the latter,
ssplat.n Antwerp. Ghcnt and Binche produce 'spat
work, which inferior to Brussels yot Binche lace
has Of late years acquired lame. sds = sata
Children commence their apprenticeship In these
localities at the carly age I've At eleven they earn
q maintenance denteiitere attends TO her home
duties add even does ned work when not employed
at Lace making. Others work In ateless exclusively,
but all perseverc in sue trade, as,wagcs with ac
quired competency Unfortunately their oyesignt Is
greatly affected when they srs thirty Tne genuine
brussels srtico gose through many hands befoes a
piece u finished.
brsdeieass is oss who makes sne rsssasa or mash
work. AFf {*N
Dsntetiere is the simple designation gwen to one
who makes the footing s..s
point maker) Is the ono who executes flowers with inc
needle only. aNa1 srar aesftst II iRns. t.M :. .
flowers.
Joimtemss is one who joins tho separate pieces
Iiatteuse is one who makes pillow lace flowers
scdu, done by HAND or machinery
MALIxEs LACE.
Naues lace s made NJ AnvorA Louvain and at Ma
limos. Swift called IL "MackliDo Ii ID summer
lace being light and having Numerous fancy designs
worked In among flowers " hob are traced round With
glossy nat thread. A quantity Of different Flemish
accs were 10 former days called Mccklis, some OF
which certainly were the real iaoe We call Malines
OF the dandy OF l727 II was sung:-
Right Mackiu must twist round his bosom and wrists.
In s.Rodcrck Random" We read OF another Ills
hair powdered with "sarscAdL cambria SHIRT; his
Malines lace DYED with coffee grounds
Lady Montague, describing an adm,rcr, writes
"with eager beat his Meckiin cravAt moves; he
This must have been tho samc lace Indies are now
20 prouseiy wearing on their .foutdrd, underiinen,
morning caps, neckues aud Aarqaise camorc peg
nors.
lace iisssreG queen Charlotte was partial 20 it ana
ENCOURAGED us manufacture; also Queen Amelle-
even Napoleon admired ~ his. however, rey,v,Dg
only from unjust neglect II Is called trisson
wnen mounted "a run Tor the bosom or throat: ior
merry IL was called ir'zcttc In the preceding let
ciennes Is made anywhere, but At Vaiencieanes
is chiefly manufactured at Ypres. IL was imported
from French Hainauit into. Flanders IN the seven
toenlh century At Ypres the groundwork 10 large
square, which the tissue OF tue pattern
stands out Ia relief. yacncennes IS made also az
Brugcs but Il is not mrs. rate article hcrc TINS
feriorsy caused simply ~ obsiinaey IN traditional
processes AZ fpres the boDbns are twisted iour and
I'VE times, Bruges twice only, al Client twice aud
halt No power viii prevail TO make tho people follow
Yprcs Nevertheless all thrive, sor ihers 400 lace
schools In West flanders, irequented ny $4,000 APP
preniccs. All Began made Vaicncienncs were Tor
merly called 'isasses." pecsuse Inferior 20 early
rraies cfcrneies vaencenncs; now at this period
FIR ince alone buys OF Belgium Tor upward OF Twelve
Millions OF francs.
ExaHErS LACE
A black lace, which initiates chantilly, 10 called
cnghein aco manufactured IN Belgium, ~ place
called GranmonL We snail presently see that IN en-
trcly lace rather that old lacO entirey
new form has or the rst time been brought forward
At tins Exoosition and owes us origin 10 me inanuac
turers OF Grammont ana BRUSSELS combined.
HERE'S RICHNESS
will now describe the richness contained In the
Belgian lace court. The grsa; attractions are four
admirable dresses, made oy NJ. Worth Tor the Arm Of
Nornand, Perc Fila x Cband0n, SUCCESSORS TO Frnn-
s a., gsIr1an isces but A the a,ner."t way avs
that h,unces and long lengths eau be employed
according 10 styles Of the day, the study OF lace
Is he chief object to be considered. AT cacn corner
OF OF the square temples already mentioned is
costly toilet made 10 ypy the genre most suitable 10
the lace. There are, therefore, iour robes--a dark
green faile, sobcry eDiycpca with vicil or and
mcncd with nat nouncs, Guns AMI collar (the nounce
fuiites down each side), and the bodice. being
.haDr with tails. The lace Is needle lace round
int, the must costly OF ALI
Second "A robe tsu, or white brocads, with trans
parent oil marigoid aud margosd satin lining the
Drocado loops The lace IL Fieusish point IL opens
down the robings on zach side, much Ike the manner
Of uriains drawn ana looped on each SIDE oil win
dow; but the draoery thus thrown back IL Of fairy
woven texture. On examining u closely Is ike
shaded AIRY garIands OF hly-wnite strcwn on spider
wcbs.
Thrdlhc black robe Ia the novelty OF this season.
II Is wnuc Brussels point appqued on black tram
montiace, an innovation III Worth approves and which
therefore opens new neld IN whicn the urn who
this wonderful dress arc the hrst runners. the
dress n ornamcnted win nounccs friIls Jet
beads glitter aud OBJ rusive. The
the satin and velvet the d0wny effect OF the
white wavy application on icatnery piack lace, arc
rendered the more striking by clusters Of
OF cardinal satin, black narrow watered ribbon and
well or mixed. IL 10 a square bodice in'frouL The