Essex County herald. [volume] (Guildhall, Vt.) 1873-1964, 1878-04-12
A LEGHORN HAT.

Nine o'clock of cloudless summer
molning. The basket phaeton stood at
the door in the narrow noisy street be-
low, but Mr.. White had already gone to
his Office, Annie pleaded headache, and
the children had their allotted tasks with
the German governess to accomplish. I
must either remain within doors during
the hot hours of the day or 60 out alone.
I decided on the latter course.
"I am too old to require any chape-
ron," I said, with laugh, and glanced
in the mirror.
There I beheld not unpleasing image
of little woman attired in gray, with
silvery veil over her plain face, in the
act of fitting on pair of quite infinite
sinai gray gloves. I kissed my good
Annie and the children, as if bound Oh
long and perilous voyage, and departed
in the basket phaeton.
What new world was that all about
me 1t was the city of Leghorn, with
its tall houses, rendered dingy by sea
damp, and wide white squares, the atmo-
sphere redolent of tar. the quays throng-
ed with shipping, the clumsy tunnels of
Oriental steamships relieved by the
lighter tracery of interlacing masts
against the sky. I like ships; in their
boundless suggestiveness they resemble
wishes, hopes, ever coming and going on
some fresh errand.
The phaeton ratified through the main
thoroughfare, once Via Grande, and now
rebaptized, after the manner of all Ital-
ian cities, in the name of Victor Eman-
uel. I noticed with the interest of q
stranger groups of bronzed sailors; the
untldy LeghGrn woman with trailing
gown, and Tapping handkerchief tied
over her frowZy head; the brilliant uni
form of an occasional officer strolling
languidly to his cafe.
Then the Sea Gate was reached, and
beyond stretched the white road which
threads its way beside the Mediterranean
to the beautiful suburb of the Ardenza.
The sea breeze waited to me delicious
GOODNESS /; the hedges of evergreens and
oleanders in masses of rose bloom
mingled rich odors the Stunted trees
dropped their feathery foliage laden with
gray dust. gazed out over the sea,
which sparkled like sapphire, with the
light houses so bright at night, now
pallid in the morning which no longer
had dneed of them, and the sails glistening
with an exquisite silvery whiteness on the
horizon. glanced down the white road
as it curved along the strand, bordered
by it's feathery trees and oleanders, its
gardens, hotels and villas stretching to
the Maremma, and the coast I might
never explore.
"This is the most beautiful shore in
the world, and the old Romans knew it, "
Isoliloquized and just then the phaeton
paused.
My destination was the bath. Again
the charm of novelty delighted me, for
it was my first summer with Annies
household. Bathing at Livorno is made
pastime, recreation, instead of q
serious business. I walked out on a
pier which terminated in a round space
shielded by tent from the suns rays,
and thence the smiling old bath woman,
in fapping straw hat, conducted me
down passage, bordered on either side
by little tents with green doors, to my
destination. Once consigned to the
bdr0ccd, was free to remain in the
tiny house, with its roof of mating and
walls of striped canvas, where the water
rippled in of transparently green hue,
or to part the curtains and issue forth
boldly as swimmer. ] decided to re-
main secluded in my crystal bath, as
was alone, like mermaid in cave.
was startled by the curtains being
separated from without, and the appear.
ance of mans head, with long sandy
beard. The head advanced with such
evident intention of tall body's follow.
ing that I uttered faint scream oi
alarm, when the intruder retreated
hastily with a muttered "Beg pardon.
I received the apology with such dig.
nifty as is possibleto a very small lady
in flannel bathing suit, hanging to o
rope to avoid drowning in deep water,
and with her head done up in an oil-skin
cap.
"Some stupid Englishman |" I said,
pettishly.
The hour was too early for many occu.
pants of the large tent, and when
emerged from my bath drew a chain
near the railing to again gaze out over
the beautiful Mediterranean. An Amer.
ican man-of-war had entered the port the
previous day. l endeavored to descry
her, with the old pain at my heart. MY
brother Harry, young, brave, good, des.
tined to become a great man, as be-
lieved, had died of fever on board ship
off Callao five years ago, smitten down
without power TO send me O message,
although, thus stricken, I was left alone.
Yes, all alone / shivered in the bright
Italian morning, while my eyes searched
wistfully for the man-of-war. Since then
every frigate had become to me Harry'f
ship, and every officer in uniform assnr.
edly must be my dead brothers friend.