The New York herald., 1878-12-31
THE BUDDING YEAR.
How The HoSpitalities Of the Festival
viii Be Observed.
OLD TIME LUNCH TABLES
Religious Obserances Of the "Watch
Night" in the Churches.

While the householder avals himself OF the coming
year to take account of stock in home and store
to the housewife the dread responsibility OF
preparing table for the entertainment of her New
Years guests. In ancient times, according to Holy
Writ. it considered great thing to have table
spread in the presence Of ones enemies. But the old
things are passed away and the modern custom de-
mands liberal provision of provisions for the aid
and comfort of those chivalric men who remember
tho first day OF the year and keep It.
Differing somewhat from the few years ilnine-
diately preceding 1879. it would seem probable
that calling will be very general and that the
habit OF hospitality that had fallen somewhat
into disuse is again likely to become nearly
universal There ways and ways of doing
this. In very old fashioned homes the ancient
preparation of glass of sherry and piece of cake
win do duty now. they have for scores Of years
now numbered with the dead. In others modest
service will consist OF , large roasted tur-
key. with oyster stuifing and dressing, chicken
salad . few picked oysters, dish of fruit and
huge Of boiling coffee. Others, again. venture
into the realm of expense and indulge in quail veni
son. roast meats, hot rolls. coffee and perhaps bowl
of punch. Between the bottle of sherry wine on
little card table in the and the great table
groanng with every substantial known to the mar
kets and all the delicacies in and out of season,
there is . wide difference. Last year but little COM
paratively done in the way of entertainment,
this year there was but small improvement and 1879
bids fair not only to eclipse its immediate predeces
but really to rival the gorgeous of usher
years gone by. NE
THE MARKETS.
New York's great--though dirty ana inconvenient-
markets were never richer in goodies than they
are to-day. And everything is sabominably cheap"
too In Of the years that gone the good lady
who spread roast quail upon her New Years table
considered extravagant. and the Of her hus
band was looked upon with suspicion by his bank.
This season quail are cheap-as cheap as dirt. The
Western birds here great abundance. and be
retailed with profit at twelve shillings DOZEN They
are firm feshed and sweet nuts. The Long Island
quail scarce, and bring 81 SO per dozen easily.
The Western freight loaded with barrels Of
those favorite birds, and of the choicest deli
cacies Of the coming festival will likewise be of
the cheapest Psrtridges plentiful and cheap Also
Dealers say that they sell rapidly. not to their old
customers alone. but also to people. whose in
qnires indicate lamenable condition Of ignorance
concerning ..what's what" and ''what isn't" From
this the poultry people infer that the New Years
tables win present different appearance from that
of former times. vet E8 +.
venison is cheap and abundant One heavy dealer
in meats says he has sold venison this week
than iii any four holiday weeks in years He. like
the poultry men, has orders for New Years Day. and
forecasts the serving Of many juicy saddles Of veni
son for hst festiys , occasion But one sucbng pig
brough. from Orange county in this State and will
become the head centre of bounteous table in the
hospitabe home OF democratic officia--one of the
few OF that style to whom the returns OF the late
election were kind.
WORD ABOUT OYSTERS.
Differ the ladies' may-and that they do differ is
painfully evident-n respect Of meats and poultry.
of having oysters If table is be set at all oysters
become sine qasd mon Oysters vary in size, price
ss s In sa
They have differing names. but only one
aas,ad And dv. they are universally % y busy The
and arc greatly affected BY callers who havo no time
to dne." but who kindly consent to take oyster
bvaives ali over the civilized world said yesterlay in
We werc Here; just look ut our order book. We
have 700 orders to MI by noon New Years Day. as
against 45O last New Years"
mot many. don't believe our books will call for
10000 raw oysters between aud New Years
'.what priced pickleds do you sell most OPP
Mediums, you see-here, try one; how's that?
and his wife come in to order. Nine times in
ten she would be satisfied with the cheapest but he
invariably airs himself and orders the dearest Then
she chimes in and they finally compromise the
- fellows. Queer world, this"
Where do you sell?'
.All over, but mainly up town and in Brooklyn.
We avoid Brooklyn calls all can account OF
that Internal ferry. Let's see; OF seven hun
dred orders they are all IN New York. except ten or
twelve in Jersey City and perhaps fifty in Brooklyn
about how many do they avcrage!''
'Not over two hundred, should gay. We have
sold low twenty-five. but rarely under fifty.
we have one customer the Hill, in Brooklyn, who
has ordered 1000 every year for six years past He
sets bully table. tell you. know him pretty WE'LL
although never met his folks. Last year called in,
nnd II his table cost him cent it cost him S25O0.
The way the wine flowed was"
u do you sell any thing besides oysters p
''Oh. yes; scoops and HOLSTERS; but, rule they
Anxtff for 1pptl In It~.1 1..k
oysters. Our sales good last time; but ii orders
keep they have begun shall have 1000 ut
win be lbO 900 oysters These. averaging "a per 100.
will make gross sale for the day of $1,000"
"How much profit?''
ooh. that's another topic. Try another oyster"
CREAMS. TUrrI IFRUTTI AND GIAcEs
OF the making of sweets there is no end. and New
York confectioners have been busy enough this
preparing creams. tuttifrut bonbes glacecs jcllics
charlotte ruse. blanc-mange, cakes candies table
naments, pieces montees and notices. Many OF
these decacies are considered necessities for well
appointed New Years table. and they add ously
TO the cost OF the entertainment Of late years the
excessive charges Of professional confectioners
have conspired to check the custom Of spread
ing elaborate tables, and creams especially have
been tabooed This season the dealers seem 70 have
learned lesson and to have profted by the rebuke
for prices have taken terrible tumble. and house
wife, caring to chill the Intervals of her guests need
the country said yesterday. Our house will serve
NJ. New Years Day. We shall have twenty-five
wagons and i25 mon and boys at work. attending to
deliveries only"
"wlat your rates this yeary'
''Oh dog cheap; ridculously cheap. OF course, by
tho quart, adhere to our reduced rate of nifty
cents, but we sell gallon of first class for
81 No. We wiz sell 400 gallons any number over
single gallon at thiryivo cents quart, and make
money at that"
ia the demand ~ great as usual?"
Greater. We have gs7 on the books now, and by
this time Tuesday night there II be l5O0 at the least
sstiinate.''
about how many quarts do they averageY'
well. that's difficult question to answer. You
lee uai
Ions 10 that. Well, let me see; guess figure It,
l should say they average ten quarts each. some
folks give party to fifty puope and they want
fifteen quartsive plates or thereabouts to guest;
but IL lady has party Of $50, and lots Of en do
she darcsnt order less tnan thirty quarts. We havo
one public affair 70 which are to send 100 quarts
ies take em small and large. and guess ten quarts
IL q fair average"
You have been public caterer. how iongg'
"Twcnty-hve years