Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1878-03-19

from gales. Entering this, we
steamed up to Gibraltar, anchoring
about one hundred yards from the
wharves. From our anchorage we
can see the fortified line which
separates Gibraltar from the Span
iisshh ishh territory, aud also a sandy strip
which is called the neutral
ground" very low and fiat From
this point the north side of the pro-
montory, or rock, rises TO its exceed
ing rugged summit, 1400 feet above
the level Of the sea, and command
ing most extensive view Of Spain
and Morocco. One finds quite
enough in this place to keep him in
terested, particularly if he is a mill
tary or naval officer, for this key to
the Mediterranean is most perfect
ly fortified and is, without doubt,
absolutely impregnable. AS you
approach the land from the sea You
observe that the city and mountains
appear to be protected from the sea
by a wall about ten feet in height.
But when you reach the wharves
you find the wall to be about eight
cen or twenty feet high and about
thirty feet thick, with port holes as
close together as the size of the
guns will admit. Most of the guns
are about ten inches in caliber,
rihed, and firing balls of 470
pounds weight. This immense bat
terry alone it would be impossible to
take, there being 800 guns in it.
This protects the city, which is built
at the base of the Crock" The
population is about 10000, and the
garrison numbers 1900 men, there
being 750 guns. The houses are
all built Of stone, are two, three
and four stories in hight, and are
nearly all covered with baked clay.
The streets are narrow, the side
walks being in some cases wide
enough for only one person, and
never for more than two, but every
place and street and alley is scrupu-
lousy clean. The streets are swept
every morning, the dirt going into
the cutters and sewers, and being
carried into the sea by water driven
through. The population is COM
posed of every nationality, the En-
glish and Spanish predominatiug.
There are also a great many Moors,
and a filthy set they are. They are
about the color Of the Turk, though
sometimes nearly as black as the
negro. A sprinkling of Jews,
Turks, Germans and French, with
here and there an American, consti-
tute the remaining chief elements
of the population. The only really
good society is to be found among
the English officers and their fami.
lies, who, as general rule, are quite
genial and social.
The officers of ourship have been
received very kindly, indeed, and
every courtesy extended to us, the
"naval representatives Of the great
est nation in the world" that could
have been expected. The governor
of the Crock" and the officers
have given us formal receptions,
which we have returned. There
are great many cockneys among
the English officers, who seem to be
stunned to great extent by their
brother officers, and constitute the
dread of the ladies. have
heard much of English beauties,
but it does seem strange that all
the "uglies" should be sent to this
place. Nor sm | an admirer of
Spanish beauty il what we see here
is fair type. The Spanish ladies
wear no bonnets, but, instead, lace
covering similar to a veil, except
that it is pinned on top and in the
middle Of the hair, and falls back
ward, leaving the forepart of the
head and the face perfectly bare.
This probably accounts for the dark
color Of the Spanish women, but
their brunette faces are rendered
very pleasing sometimes in the
contrast presented by Jet black
hair and the brightest Of eyes. But,
for my part, | cannot admire them
=-they all have that dreamy, indo-
lent expression, and, l may say,
lambent dullness in their faces, as
if their only object in life was to be
yooed by GONE gallant hidalgo, and
to live through tho mechanical
pr0cess Of eating, AS for the men,
they are a hard looking set, a al
low face, mustache a Ia Napoleon
with gQatee, black hair AMI eyes,
with an expression of profound
laziness and general worthlessness,
and the whole surmounted by an
immensely Wile.brimmed sombrero,
These, yoa Afe to imagine as form,
ing, with one ouppe of brain inside,
the lead which rests upon the main
body, whose integuments are q bob
tailed cut-away coat, with vest to
match In q few instances, lavender
Or very loud-looking striped or
plaid trowsers, Sharp-pointed shoes,
oolored shirt and flaming cravat.
Now to give you my impression of
English life, | will tell you of our
reception by lis excellency the