The Portland daily press., 1878-07-25
From Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

| with gay snort dresses for the country is the
agant courier of paniers. This overskirt is
short, round, and wing-like on the hips, while
the back shows the contemplated return to
bouaant drspery. The curtain overskirt is
another fashion of drapery that recalls the
dresses of Marie Autoinette. In some instances
| this curtain is so eaborately draped as to sug-
gest upholstery, hence It's name; but the plain
er models are graceful, and are especially COM
mended for combination dresses ahd for re-
furnishing the dresses of last season. The
black silk dresses that Worth is said to COM
mend most highly have this curtain overskirt
made of brocade, while the train and apron are
of plain silk. Three or four flowing back
breadths form the tran and in some cases are
| looped by tapes underneath to look quite bout
fant. These breadths are merely edged with a
narrow knife-pleating that extends up the
| sides to the waist. The three short breadths
| have wider pleatings at the bottom to represent
| a petticoat. From the front of the belt descend
| two brocaded silk bresdths that curve outward
| to the sides and are hidden under the pleatings
The lower edges and the front are finished
with fringe. A jabot made of many narrow
loops of the silk, stiffly interlined and perhaps
faced with satin, passes down the middle of the
| front breadth. This design is so simple tha
| ladies can easily make it at home, and thus
anticipate the style that il is said will prevail
| next season.
In Paris the simplest fabrics are made up in
Trianon dresses. New chintz costumes and
the Indienne cottons-soft, fine, and closely
woven, yet very light-have the butterfly over
skirt or the curtain drapery precisely like those
tba r;o dad nd
striped gaCzes. A dainty little neckerchlef
completes this dress, shaped somewhat like the
Marie Antoinette fichu, which has gradually
won its way into ftSvor again. The cotton ker,
chiefs are however more usually square, and
have gay border. The dresses lately de-
scribed as being made up entirely OF Madras
handkerchiefs are similarly fashioned There
also polonaise dresses of gNyly e0iored ging,
hams, with panier fullness on me sues, ana
revers of contrasting color trimmeIN Witn Wnite
lace Thus dark blue gingham poll >oaise mas
a broad vest of mandarin yellow gnghA VI Snas
is almost covered with white Russian lace; ps
low the vest the polonaise is turned up wi."
yellow revers, and the sides are gathered toto
the back to give the fullness of paniers The
skirt has knife-pleatings bound with the dark
yellow; the cuffs and collar are also yellow,
with wide lace laid smoothly over them to tone
down their high color.
Worth has sent over most beautiful foulard
Of nae "Asds 9ssdfas ip p, the new Tranen styles One
with a wide uleated fiounce edged with VaIen-
ciennes lace. and above the lem is insertion Of
Valenciennes. A iabot of many loops of pink
satin ribbon and lace is down the middle OF the
front breadth, while the butterfly over-skirt is
short and round on the sides, aud long and
bouffant behiRd. The basque has square
neck and elbow sleeves. Many rows of pleated
Vaenciennes trim the front across like vest
below the open square, the sleeves are length
wise rows of insertion with fouiard bands.
Light blue foulards are made similarly, and are
trimmed with white Mechln lace. Short dresses
of plain white organdy or of dotted Swiss mus
lin have the butterfly overskirt with puffed
border in which colored ribbon is run, and the
edge is finished with knife-pleatng. The
square-neck corssge and elbow sleeves are in
keeping with such skirts A white foulard toi-
lstte of this kind is combined with dark violet
blue so0lard, which appears as a vest below
the Pom ,Nadour square of the neck, as curtain
oyer-skirt and as facing of the broad KILT peats
with which lie skirt is trimmed
To wear with such dresses at the garden par
ties for which they are intended are very pic
turesaue round hats With broad brims. Some
of these are made of tbe thinnest white Or
CANDY muslin shirred on t0e thread-like wire;
The brim is broad, and mads up OF this shirred
organdy covered with a row OF docnesse Ro,ns
lace laid on so that the scsllopet edge VIII IN
ish the brim. The crown is smonIn, asu SUI
rounded by long finely curled wh.te ostrlc9
plume The left side of the plume Is turneu
up in Deyonshire style, and q spray of Leeam
and dark roses fills in the space.
Another style suitable for the quaint new
dresses has the brim smoothly covered with
antique silk in Pompadour colors of rose and
pink, while inside is shirred satin, either rose
or blue. Only the crown of the hat is of chip,
and this may be either whts cream or beige
color A wreath of grasses, or of gilded oats,
or of corn-howers or daisies, is around the
crown, and a pale-colored ostrich Zip is allowed
to stand like pompon.
For inexpensive shade hats there are soft ru=
tic straws far lighter than those formerly worn,
and with satin lustre. These cost from 20
cents upward, and ladies trim them at home in
most coquettish ways. The brim is firss faced
with silk, either dark Jacqueminot red, or
pale blue, or dark sapphire. A wreath of
leaves or gra5scs or daisies is on the outsids.
The brim is then carved on the left side, and
the back is turned up more abruptly, and large
square bows of ribbon the color of the lining
are placed on the back and sides of the brim.
The edge of the brim needs wire in order to
indent the sides and back. Some ladies omit
the flowers and use only ribbon for Trimming
the crown. That about two and half inches
wide is mc1t uEc /. Small fruits, such as plums,
grapes, cherries, and berries, are also much
used on garden hats. With them is a loosely
folded scarf of t)urette guaZe
Nabob gauze is the name given 10 beautiful
fabric used by miliners for trimming round
hats and bonnets. 1t is of Oriental colors iu
inch wide stripes, and is loosely woven in
square meshes. The rich coors of India cash.
meres are scen in this fabric combining dark
yellow with rcd, blue, and myrtle green. An
other fancy is that of using Gcarfs of cream or
beige colored grenadine for trimming black
and beige colored round hats. Chip flats are
colored in beige tints, and look as rich as Leg
horn bats. These are widely faced inside with
dark green or olive velvet. while around the
brim is scarf of Lou-s Quinze silk in chene
design. Instead of the hesvy-looking gold and
silver braids, modistes put an inch-wide row of
Leghorn other straw braid inside the brms
of round hats. One of the newest fances Is
to turn the broad brim back from the forehead
and fasten 1t against the crown with pins that
ha 0Old o.
gether.
Lace bonnets for young ladies to wear on full
dress occasions in the summer are made in
baby shape, or else regular capotes. The frame
consists of only few wires, and is very light
1t is first smoothly covered with silk and then
with lace. Thus, for a blonde, the frame Is
covered with pale blue silk, on which is laid
Valenciennes insertion and lace very much like
an infants cap. Ros5s, pale blue aigrettei
aud loops of blue ribbon complete it. For
brunette, the silk is oldlgold or cream color, and
the lace is black Chantilly; the flowers are
Jacqueminot roses
Bassues are becoming quite short in 'front.'
extending not more than nge or six inches be-
low the waist line. They remain very long be-
hind, and when fnllness is added 1t does not be-
gin at the waist line, but more than finger
length below it. 1t is more customary, how
ever to have the back forms fl at, and to have
each form end in a loop, made By lining the end
of the form with st,ff interlning, facing 1t with
silk and turning it up underneath Two long
iooped bows of doube-faced ribbon are set down
on the tails of the basque.
A jabot of loops of narrow ribbon is set down
one side of the apron front of dresses. Some
times these loops are many colored, as, on q
blue Chamtery gauze dress the loops are
cream-color, cardinal red, and black. On black
silk or grepadine dresses the ribbon is black
| satin on one side and gros grain ON the other.
| This ribbon is an inch wide; the loops are
| about three inches long; they are in rows of
| three or four, and should be very thickly clus-
| tered.
| Syft facings of barred crlnoine muslin are
| used in silk skirts instead of stiff wiggIp.
| The English turned over collars of dresses