The Portland daily press., 1878-08-22
From Harper's Bazar.l
Autumn Goods.

the first fall goods received this season at the
wholesale warehouses. These form study in
color that would please the eye of an artist.
The sombre grays and yellow browns SO long
in favor are replaced by clearer hues and by
the most softly blended rich colors. Thus in
one fabric four tints of olive, pale blue, garnet
and dark yellow are seen, yet all are SO SUE
dued and SO correctly blended that there is
nothing striking or disagreeable.
The new color, to be associated with almost
every other shade in the prism is Theirs red, "a
deep dark garnet, richer than the cardinal red
that has been worn lately. This is already very
fashionable in Paris for bonnet trimmings, and
for the flowing ribbons. belts and other access
eores of stylish costumes; it is especially
handsome in satin and in velvet, and will form
the background for the rich velours and b1oche
stuffs to be worn for winter dresses.
New fabrics have Eastern names, aid are
Oriental in colors and designs. One of the
novelties shown in Palmyra broche of fine
wool closely ribbed, yet with satin-like sur
face thrown up in small brocadsd flowers.
India cashmeres, woven more loosely than
the familiar French cashmeres, are largely i'm
ported, in various weights and under new
names. One very light quality for dresses is
called Shoodas; very heavy cachemire de
PInde for wrappings is known under the name
of caravan cloth; another rough-surface cash
mere fulled up is called casinair foule.
The Chuddah cloths, such as are seen in
Chuddah shawls, with a tiny woven stripe in
herring bone design, are very largely imported
for the winter. These are really cancels hair,
and differ only from that in general use by be.
ing woven in quaint stripes instead of in reg
ular even twilled surfaces.
Cancels hair, or, as all such stuffs are now
called, India cashmere, comes loosely woven
and coarse-looking. yet is expensive. 1t has
less loose shaggy fleece than that worn last
year, and is most shown in olive with green
hues, hazel brown, and gray that is nearly
blue. Worth is making short costumes of this
in combination with satin. There are also
many beautiful fine twills more closely woven
than the India stuffs, yet as soft and pliable as
they.
Indications at present are that the shaggy
bourettes will give place to velours with the
rough threads caught in loops like the surface
Of Brussels carpets, instead of leaving the loose
fleece hanging. These raised loops form regu-
lar figures in diamonds or squares on plain sur
faces, and are all of one shade of dark Theirs
red, mastic, myrtle, and, ab1ve all, the olive
with green shades.
The novelty that is likely to prove most pop
ular for the sensible and sty lish short suits for
fall and winter is shown under the name of
coatings, and is more largely imported than
any other material. This sembles the chevi-
OTIS and English homespuns worn by gentlemen
for business and travelling suits, and strength
ems the rumor that cloths are to rival bourettes.
These coatings are very loosely woven thick
threads,-not twilIed-and of comparatively
smooth surface. Instead of the plain gray
and hrar7 form ar1x in hos onOdc
are now beautiful melange of three or four
dark, rich colors, so perfectly blended as to pro-
duce at short distance the appearance Of a
single color. The olive green and reseda tints
prevail in these, and there are many hazel
browns. pet in nearly all are threads of Theirs
red or of sulphur yellow, or dark mandarin
orange. These are to be made up in suits with
jaunty coat and vest or else the long cassque.
and Of course, short skirts, for long skirt Of
this fabric would be most lncOngru0us.
There are various fabrics imported, the mer-
chants say, especially for vests of ladies' suits.
Among these are corduroys OF several dark
colors, such as blue, green and maroon. as we'll
as the usual gray and ecru. Small broche pat,
most intricate figures for vests. Velours with
the raised loops cut as in velvet and opened in
stripes is also for the plastrons and vests of
PLAIN wooden dresses.
Among the mixtures OF sllk and wool are
most beautiful meanges with thread stripes,
one thread olive and che Eext red or blue or
yellow; and still finer new stuffs have here and
there what seem to be stitches of silk of bright
hue taxed in the dark wool surface These are
hsrdsome for young ladies' suits, and are imi-
lated in the less expensive fabrics.
Another novelty is the braided stripe with
close background on which are raised stripes Of
thicker threads woven as if braided or plated
together in three strands. This is meant for
vests, or else for the entire over-dress
Last, but by no means least in importance,
come the plaids. 1t is the custom almost every
fall for merchants to assert that plads are to be
fashionably worn, but this season the rumor de-
serves credit from the fact that Worth and
other Partisan dress makers have used them ali
summer for Exposition dresses, and have even
used plaid foulards for trimming black grena-
dimes and white baleges: The importations
and invisible plaids. such as are known to deal.
ers as fancy plaids. They are marked by
French manufacturers Ec0SSdise, but are not
the genuine Scotch tartans, such as are worn by
the various clans. Blue, green, red, olive, and
old gold are the colors that appear in plaids,
and these are as intrcately blended as in the
coatings described above The illustration of
the cut paper pattern in this weeks Bazaar will
show definitely how these plaids are to be made
up.
ter for garniture on bOnnets and for dress
trimmings.
Large square buckles for belts from two to |
three inches broad are imported in engraved |
silver, IN pearl and in jet mixed with steel. |
Everything indicates that belted dress waists |
will continue in favor. New belt ribbons are |
deliberately embroidered by hand, or else bro |
caded in the loom. Brightly Powered belts are
worn in Paris with black silk and grenadine
dresses.
The fancy for wearing black around the
neck without any relief Of white is popular
with ladies of very fair complexion; brunettes |
find it unbecomiDg and warm looking. The |
favorite black ruche is of thread lace closely |
pleated in knife pIeats, and sometimes there is
q slight pleating of crmped black crepe Iisse |
inside the lace ruche. This black garniture is |
in best taste With black dresses, but is also |
worn with ecru, beige and pale blue dresses
with verv stv1 ich affoct