The New York herald., 1878-09-15
New Costumes, ColOrS, Millinery, Styles
and Fabrics.
A u T u MI N III A Il s.
Walking Dresses Without Trains Once
More Popular.

TO look for fashions-neW IAshions, 100, Wnlcn
shall completely possible overthrow old ones
and make women sigh tor stability, or ese-more
money. Everybody talks OF style and the new lash
ions, and not few stand the brink OF making
basty selections and contributing to satirical crt
cAsm.
But natures mightiess effort is to wait
But Who that Is q woman and ready Tor new toilets,
ever waitsY
OUTDOOR COSTUMES
n the street costumes OF the present season the
most noticeable feature Is the extreme simplicity oil
the dresses and the quiet shades which preva-
lent that bright coIor except II be used in The way
OF trimmings, Is something TO be remarked.
Short costumes almost universally adopted; but
10 be really stylish they must not touch tho ground
at any point should be short enough to show the
heels the boots This nscesstates that careful at
ten.ion should be bestowed upon the chaussurs Tho
success of these costumes, after SO many years Of
neglect, is truly astonishing. They the source OF
SO much comfort that they undoubtedly will
remain in favor tor some time to come Walking
dresses principally made Of woolen abrics, which,
OF their durability, softnss and tho facility
with which they tall graceful drapery. arc rapidly
Buperseding silk tor street woar.
CHANGE IN STYLE
Many Indications point toward wnat may be deemed
. radical change in the styles We have had four
rsau dresses, moro less modified, for long sea-
son; but slight changes have begun 10 work what
may end In very serious resulta For instance, the
arspery Is placed higher on the hips, and bounant
sTects have actually presented themselves with an
ls.on,shing degree These two facts put
Iogether decidedly point toward the return OF tour
aures. However, there Is ums enough when they
arrive to groan and bewaIl their advent and then
meekiy obey tho m mapdatcs OF fashion.
THE 'TRIASoN" PoLoYAlsE.
THIS graceful garment makes Its debut In ie beau
monde to-day, and is very beautiful when worn with
, short SKIRT 1t has bourant back, formed by two
iulI puns surmouuted by plated basque, ana double
breasted fronts trimmed at tho bottom with double
Tevers la laveuse. combined IN this stylish de-.
sigp. 1t Is tight httng and has side forms at the
back rouuded TO the armh0!es
The .sLambaIe' Is also bouffant In the back, with
basque In front, trimmed TO represent Louis XVI
vest apron, with drapery rather high al the
sides. 1t IS tight htting with tho usual number OF
darts n front and side forms in the back rounded 10
armhoes
Another entirely new style costume consists OF the
sLeonora" walking skirt and the 'Ceciia" basq uc.
Tnis Is very pre.y made IN small plaid ana PLAIN
FOODS combined. with walking boots Of the plaid.
THE ''DucHLssE MATINEE"
This Is something a Iittle more drsssy than the
,rdinary wrapper and yet neQliQe Ii somewhat re-
,embes very long paletot, reaching TO about loot
tho ground, and Is intended 10 be worn over any
kind OF skirt. The more elegant matness are made
oi siIk, foulard, cashmere and the Cheney armure,
very eabortely trimmsd, but the design Is quite
lavorite and most convenient style Tor home
dresses is basque overskrt and skirt The GrszeIa"
Is pretty overskrt, ano Is sufficiently long
the entire sKri, wnh the exception OF the founces
trimmings, and II combines well with the "MaJoaino"
basque, which is very coQuettish IN effect.
The .Esmsralda' OverskIrt Is an excellent dosign
for woolicn materials or iabrcs OF Elk and wool that
are too heavy, winch are soft aud drape grace
FULLY. The bands forming the pastron down the
front and The ming the side may be braided
embrodered III different shades OF the color OF the
material AMI thus made furnish avery bcaut,iu al
The ssJcsslcu' used IN
with This overskirt with charming style.
THE s'AIExAXDRA" PRINcEss DKEss.
This Is exquisite reception tOIlot design, and
when made In pare blue silk. combined with damAssee
silk having ground OF od gold color with the de-
mugs Of brown velvet enDroicered with ola gold
pale blue, and rich fringe which all the colors
q combination oil two fabrics and be used TO ad-
vantage making over hall worn dresses OF siik
vevet and reconsuucting them with The aid Of some
one OF the modern hgured aorcs 80 enscIivsiy used
with SILK.
NOVELTIES ! DRESS MArERIALsL
In dress goods bourotto Ideas Secm entirely
ignored The tendency toward PLAIN materials Is evi
de enL although varieties as 10 acsgn and color
are presented. yet both nre modest. some tho
goods sh ow eayety of alton color the
surfaces smooth ana the coiors, though bright
aelicarely intcrmxed and an general toned down
BY dark quiet contraspgs lu tins style OF goods
additional effect Is gwen by small invisible checks
plaids, some ewnst Resembling thoso introduced some
years ago. their grave shadowngs IN the midst Of
bright dotings OF red blue and yellow Afford very
tasteful relief.
ScOtch piadS are 1ntTouuCcu IOr lnule6' wear, Dut
In accordance win the general unobtrusivcness Of
goods the puids are comparatively small and the
rolors greatly subdue1. linda camePs hsir Is lead
ing fabric the coors solid snd Tor the
DARK. The surface SHOWS delicat twill, not unlike
sashmsrc over which at Intervals are long nairs which
lie the goods u overlooked through csrsless-
ness in weaving. In double widths OF from iorty-
four fortysx inches prices vary IRON III 80 TO $3 SO
snd 81 per yards very hns qualities range rs hgD as
s. per yard.
suilings so called from their emblance, in the
more quiet styles, TO the cloth worn by gentlemen,
10 nm
shades oil coIors. Not unrequently Invisible checks
or stripes appear IN regular shadings throughout;
again ibs surface is without any DIVISION Of such
eharaclcr aud gradatons 70 texture up those
which moro less freely united with SILK, there
n almost endless variety ol hue; Ihess come under
bhe general head of 'noveties," and vnry IN price
from nity cents to 81 single width, ana scvcntynve
cents TO IS, double width.
Anotnsr class goods battles description, because
they different IRON any thing when has for
loug time bcea Introduced In general they are OF
coor throughout, variety oeing gwen by marked
differences Ia the weaving; but patterns small
anu regular. In order ~ form such figures hno wires
have been inserted over when the thread crossing
has formed loops proportionally small and the wire
being afterwsru wthdrawn the ngure remains raised
IL has siKy feeling TO tue touch and ~ vovety In
81 10 upward.
Corduroy cloth Is brought out IN dark, pale and
hight coIors, nud Will be iashionsbiy used vest
ings and Otherwise comboed In new costumes
On boiled scotch giughaas, IA gay coIors aud
clan plads, biue ahd green, with cross bars oil red
and old gold, are among tbs prominent avorites sbs
peason, and II will be worth the shoppers wuile to
bsnrn the difference between the Goraon tho
Forty-second, tue dasbing Rob Roy ana tho more
lobcr Mcpherson. The BIT oil yellow green wnich DIS
nnguisnes the latter will surrey Try the complexion
nore sorely than the antique reds aud gold shades
which coDspic cuous ~ these insteriaiA
sEw SILKS.
Scoten plaids similar 10 those In wool, repro
duced sIIk and form some oil tue piQuaDt aud
noticeau.c novelties IN dress matsraiA Prices Tor
those from 81 yard upward
There 10 AN Unlimited variety OF styles In the
American silks, IN Drocadss, Hrnures "Venetians,"
all silk satins, Forentnss and the new sros allls Is
shown IN ALI colorA TnIs In destined Io become a
isvorile class OF gooas ior evening" drosses, u ap-
pears 30 light and airy, yot has good body and
grapes gracefully.
pAsHIoSABLK coLoRs.
Several shades oi wInc color also varietos more or
lees prom ounccd OF garnet will bs very popular For
duy they appear chiefly IN millinery, and AS aeces
sories of The costume but Tor evening viii form in-
portant parts oil the richert TOILETS o The sea-
sou Cardinal IN not excluded and Vulcan red Is oc-
casionay seen aud new rich shade OF rod 10 termed
surbter. The principal wine shades are CbamoertiD,
LATTE and ST. Julien. The last Two are quite novel
snd will be much used Bordeaux Is 50 called IRON