Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1878-06-07
Hnrls Letter.


PARIS, May 18th, 1873.
Ones first impressions ON setting foot in a
country that has been known to him only
through its history, literature, and art, must
necessarily be crude aud fresh, for the great
stream of the life Of IA nation, like that of an
individual. is neither historic, literary, or
aesthetic. Those only who supply the Amer
lean press with Paris letters, written in New
York, may be supposed to be profoundly and
thoroughly versed in French affairs, and en-
repp0rt with the life, motives, and aims, So
cal political, and moral Of the new Repub-
lie that has been grated on to the old Empire.
But crude and fresh rs my opinions are. lpro-
pose to give them my superficial comment
may prove useful as foil TO the profound
disquistion and precocious knowingness of
the omniscient Bohemian, whose clniryoyanco
has saved him most nauseous sea voyage.
On the morning of the 18th of May, |
climbed down from my berth in the steamer,
made IL hasty toilet, and went ON deck to
catch n first glimpse of France. We were
passing the islands of Alderney and Guernsey
and the sight of houses, hedges and gardens,
dimly observable in the distance, was delight
full to our scasick eyes. The island Of Guern-
sey it will be remembered was the refuge Of
Victor Hugo in his Punishment during the
second empire. aud its sea and scenery We're
the inspiration of his "Tmyailleurs," as well
as of some of the finest passages Of his last
work. "Ninety-threc." | was thinking Of
these, and trying TO see things through the
glamour Of his wonderfully poetical descrip-
tons when a fellow-ctizen from Iowa told
me something worth knowing. lie said
"Those are the islands of Jersey and Attorney
where that fine breed of cows come from.
We could now see Cherbourg with its FORTH
cations and fine artificial harbor about ten
miles distant, and auchoring near the quay,
close to three French iron-clads, we en-
barked upon the little steamer that had
come alongside to ferry us to the wharf. As
we approached we observed n crowd of pco-
pie and four or five cabs drawn up to receive
US among them was grand and portentious
military personRge, with sword, cpaulets, and
cooked hat; one of our passengers insisted
that such distinguished looking individual
could be no other than Marshall Mcmahon,
and said that he had half expected the honor
of his presence at our landing but it proved
to be only gems d arms. pronounced John
ny Darmsl and we soon learned that this
country produced great many like him.
Now came the inspection of orr baggage.
| Our trunks were sent to the Custom house,
but our yalses passed free, with only a formal
inspection. As passed Marshall McMahon,
he inquired in very good French: "Tabac =
told him 10. "Segar;" told him. six.
This seemed to satisfy him, for he merely
touched the valise with the grace peculiar to
his race, and said ''c' est 6ols' pronounced
like "shebang'D which literally translated
meant that the little 'shebang" was all right
and we passed on to the cab that was to con-
vey us to the Hotel d 7 Aigle, or, in plain
American, the Eagle House. We were next
entertained with the immense amount of
chariute, ring that French hackman is able
to do on Il very small capital. Five of us, be-
side the driver, got into IA one horse two
wheeled vehicle and with as much flourish
and iucessaut crack of whip as if he had been
driving on a Roman race course, he forced
his horse at a slow gallop through the streets
of Cherbourg. At the Eagle the landlady
was drawn up to receive u.s. hanked on one
side by her sister, and on the other by a very
pretty young woman, in black alpaca dress
and white apron who seized our valises and
took them to our rooms As soon as we saw
the landlady with her bowling, smiling staff
We were all more than ever convinced that we
were in France, FOR We had seen such super
natural pohteness in what we then supposed
to be the cxaggeration of French opera
bouife.
Later in the day we walked through the city,
looked at its historic defeuces. and admired
the splendid colossal statue of Napoleon in
scribed with his words; Il will reproduce
at Cherbourg the marvels of Egypt" aud
pointing with the rdiating finger of his right
hand to the magnificent breakwater that he
had built far out in the sea.
Among the first impressions that an Amer
lean will have of France is the great prevalence
of women they do much of the work in the
hotels. cafes fields and even at the railway
stations As tagmen and switchmen. Where,
asked one Of our party, "can all the men be
l see few but women; ;" later in the day Il
long column of blue coated, red pantalooned
conscripts, all apparently between the ages of
Is and %, marched with light jaunty steI
through the city, and there was an answer tC
the question, where are the men:
have been in Paris only two days, and n
the Exposition only one day. 1t is quite
plain that in this show France is the Alphi
and Omega; that other natonalties are tn,
etc, etc, among which the United States j,
observable, but by no means imposing.
will write more particularly of the Exposition
III my next. c. a. 5.