New-York tribune., 1878-09-28
AN EXCURSION IN NORWAY.
III.

EERODiL-MILEs OF CASCADES.
To the Editor or The Tribune.
SIR: Before describing journey amid the GOrds
and fields of Norway, it may be well to state Just
what ford and field are. They are so peculiar
to Norway that 1t is wonder that ordinarily they
are little known and that thoy are little known,
the numerous questions asked me concerning them
are abundant proof ford, then, is an inlet OF the
sea- extending with wide-spreading branches far
! into the country. The Nardanger and Joque
Fiords are each of them hundred miles In length.
But their beauty comes from their form rather than
their size. They are not simply straight or winding
inlets. They lie among the hills like vast water
| tree feled by the Shore whose trunk extends In
| from the coast which soon divides into manifold
| branches, and then subdiyides into yet smaller
streams so that the root, trunk branch and twg OF
a tree are all represented by ford These fJords
are not only a principal mode of communication,
but they greatly to mitigate the severity OF the
Northern climate and render the country habitabe.
They convey far into the interior the tepid
waters of the Gulf Stream, which has great
| power ON the northwestern coast of Nor
way and act the part of q series OF steam
pipes in their ramifcatiOns among the hills so that
the temDorature is greatly heightened, and clear up
north of the latitude of Hudsons Bay. the brackish
| water of the fjOrds is not frozen over In Winter.
This is the case as far north as Hammerfest. But
for this feature the country would not be hablta-
bic.
A field is simply large track Of upland piain,
corresponding, IN measure, TO the taDle-iands Oh
South America and the Alps or high meadows OF
Switzerland; much smaller than the first. much
larger than the second. The Doyre Field. of which
spoke in my first letter. and the File Field, which
notice in this, are the widest and most beautiful.
Doubtless much of the finest scenery Of Norway
il found on the northwestern coast between
Trondhjem and Hammcrfest but doubtless one
enjoys most that into which penetrates through
ford and over field. When standing on the steamers
deck one looks off toward the coast one seems to be
q moro spectator of something apart from one
Int the sense of distance yanlshes, and one feels
oneself part of the scene when climbing up the
hill which commands the enchanting view or
penetrating the valley which surrounds one with
its grandeur. It was, therefore, with feeling OF
relief as though were getting to he at home again
after visit away from it, that left the steamer
at Moldc. on our return from the North Cape, and
began the delightful experience Of wandering
through Norway.
! Let Inc say at once, for the benefit of tourists,
that the finest inland scenery OF Norway is COM
| prsed in that portion Of it which would be in
clnded between the coast and lines drawn. one
| south from Molde and one west from Bergen,
until they met ut Yik in the Nardanger Fjord.
OF course on the edges of this region there are some
olorious things 10 see such as the ROmsdal, the
country about Odde, including the Skeggerdal
Fos little TO the SOUTH and the File Field and
! Ya!ders TO the west and southwest. But the
greatest things are included IN the lines above IN
dicated II does not a large region to traverse,
bu il "a full of beauty at almost every step, and
one may well occupy three or four weeks in making
acquaintance with its lovcliness and grandeur IL
.;u,,f, ,ottcr ennugh IN In with the helms
| has in hand. Bcnnet's Guide Book not only
Laws down every station where horses and carioles
or stolkars are 20 be had but also gives the dis
tances the rates Of payment, and the character of
! the places and the number Of beds they furnish
| Then the "Norges Communications" a sheet pub
| lshel at least monthly and often weekly, has n
complete list with index, of every steamer sailing
! through the Gords. the lakes and rivers. and
along the coast OF Norway with the days and hours
Of their touching at any point on their route One
can thus make mp plan of travel by little cacula-
ton which need meet with no serious derange-
/ ment You wish TO cross a certain tract of country
to a certain ford. Your Bennct" tells accurately
the routes the distance the time, according TO Nor
/ vepian pony rate. Your NOrgcs Communications
indicates Just when and where the steamer touches.
! and You make your plans accordingly. Thus are
YOU doubly armed" If at a store station, where
horses are furnished but not kept ready, one must
halt tl the steeds are brought IN from the field
hours later driving will make the loss of time,
and happily in Norway the long light nights make
this matter Of little consequence
| The expense OF this mode of travelling. including
everything food. lodging earole, horse boats,
found to be nearer - thqn SO a day; but then
travelled faster than some that H. put more driY
inc into a day than many do. The longer takes,
the less of course. II costs per diem The requisites
for comfort are little luggage waterproof coat
I 1l.N. and faflaf I'm
lids rruuiring luNuries and careful attention should
not attempt the journey All Others, ladies included
do bdab "la ana lnr For a4a is mc2d o2
! like a continuous picnc than anything else. One
| gets "A short, but usually comfortable bed at night
! | only once had 10 sleep on the hay IN COW shed.
! aud the hay was soft, and HeaS do not bite me,
which made my rost qulcor than that OF some OF
| my fellows IL the weather is warm one drives in
| one, flannel shirt uncovered with coat ur waistCoat
| If il rams one dOns his Macintosh and pushes
| through. This Summer however. has been excep,
tIOual m its dryneSs Daring three weeks II ulned
! only one Sunday when was lying by and brief
| shower or two during the last days furnished the
only occasion for producing my waterproof
Bur ! would warn anyone from trying to walk
| with knapslck Walking il well. One may do IL
admirably here; indeed the road Is occasionally 50
| sieep that one has To walk both up and down hull
Bat q weight on ones back is burden which will
! eounerbalance the sublimity OF nature and the
nObler emotions of the soul. The volunteer
| Colonel blundered iutO the right when he wrote
that he had Marched three days at the head OF his
own corpse with three days priyations on his back
| Send your luggage Dy oarlOle ana DE happy carry
! it and-well-StaY at home.
! Do ngcr a long timo-over the preparations 1t
is because the country is so well worth seeing that
| tits worth seeing WELL Let US return to MOldo and
see what we shall see. You take here a little
steamer and sail over lovely ford to Macs Yer
| blungsnaes. A vast panorama spreads out before
You as you start, yividly recalling the celebrated
view from the terrace at Berne. only her1 you see
the long line of black and snow-white peaks from
the water You get lost in the intrcacy of the
| ford changing loyoliness at every turn, and find