The New Orleans daily Democrat., 1878-02-17
NEW ORLEANS FASHIONS.

snrng days that bring us odors from violets
and orange blossoms: and lovely young
women In spring bonnets, with eyes SO bright
and beaming that life seems fresh and new,
and the story just beginning to be told all
over again. blessing on such weather, for
II makes one glad to be alive; glad that there
is youth and beauty in the world; glad that
there are people whose lives are holiday.
who can wear bright silks and soft laces, who
can walk III the sunshine and shed radiance
upon the bcggar beside them There are days.
dark days, dreary days. when one feels like
preaching the gospel OF black serge and
ho,nespun of the cruetixion Of all ones
tastes and longings and the putting on Of
not with the eartb bossoming,o the birds
singing, and men and women reveling. In
tho general giadness of the season To-day,
one feels reconcilcd to the caprices Of fashion.
1t seems right that my lady should delight
WITH HER woNpER6SSh COSTUME,
her graceful drapery, the delicate puff Of satin
which she calls her bonnet, the antique oddity
Of her ornaments. the rare tint OF her gloves,
the geam Of her hair and always with the
wealth Of her resources. What dreary old
world this would be, Il there weroOn this
fair woman to puzzle over!
Her brunette sister is winning many laurels
Mt the court OF fashion just now. Blondes
have had their day, and with the advent OF
eyed DANES, Of course, had to come again in
fashion in order to show these off. Though
Worth, in designing gown OF yellow silk for
haired beauty '' yd,nt asserts ,tat that .
as sit in the sunshine, cannot but
believe that here taro likes produce diseoHi.
For example, at q recent soiree. lovely btu
nette appeared IN a costume OF amber satin,
without other color excepting crimson roses
with her Louis XIV slSes This wouidohave
been a startling toilet for blond. indeed d
aLAR1NG ASSAULT UPON GOOD TASTE
Mons. Worth for once must be at fault. An
other exquisite evening drestsor brunette Is
of black velvet and mazc-Colored faille. The
train is0pf black velvet: upon each side is
broad. bias piece of velvet corded with black
satin. and trimmed upon each edge with
Duchcese lace. This is carried upon the waist
and over the shoulders, and follows the decol-
faillc s2 y. over @ Which whit5 % tuIle s g gathered
very full,o The basque front Is Simulated
bS rune Of Duchesse lace. Small
hRiguets OF red roses arc set at intervals upon
the bias piece which edges the tabler, and
large clusters OF the same. with vines and
trails OF foliage, are mounted upon the train,
which is farthege decorated by row Of Du-
chesse lace set three inches above the hem.
Black satin boots and maize-colored gloyes
were to be worn with the dress The
NECKLACE. EARRINGS AND COMB
of the wearer were coral Another toilet was
OIL rDSe-plnk SHtlD, trimmed WlLn u patterned
vine In black velvet. embroid4ed with jet
beads The waist was cut square, the corsage
being trimmed with loops OF pink satin, and
with a vine in black velvet embroidery to
match that the skirt. A knot Of pink
roses wits placed It the left side of the square
opening. The sleeves were in the Marie An
toinette style, with frlls Of the pink satin and
Embroidery is more omphycd than ever as
a trimming for light-tinted silks, satins. etc.
O. that Is to say, owers embroidered in their
natural hues. For black dresses. only jet en-
broidery must be used. Tho bands Of colored
flowers are rendered much more effective by
1NTRopucT1oNooF cuT-srEEh BEADS
into, e,e net e,rylnding. Sometimes lace,
worked WITH steel beads and matching the
dress In hue Is used in combination with the
noSSSY' embroidery, thus forming a rich and
Marabou ribbon is fancifu trimming for
evening dresses. 1t is imported in nearly all
and pinks with the undyed down. In the
darker shades, the down is dyed tho same color
as the ribbon. great deal of bead work is
used upon evening dresses, generally inter
mixed with silk or chenille fringe, and these are
frequently outlined with wrcaths of shaded
leaves, or small roses intermingled with brown
and silver foliage; fringes of grasses are very
fanclful and pretty. For evening dresses,
Mr.. Danzger has most delicate Crepe lisse
ruchcs in every conceivable tint--pale salmon,
tea rose, cie!o,lue and cream color
CONTRASTS OF COLOR
o are scarcely admissible in large assemblies.
The most distinguished combination ball
dresses are combinations of separate mate
and satn silk and damasse. satin and bro
cade, velvet and brocade, or velvet and satin.
There is one exception to this rule. any pale
tinted silk can be, with taste and elegance,
combined with Swiss arJ Valenciennes, white
taretan or tue: the two fabrics are sheer
and delicate. blending happily together in a
cloud and sheen.
Numerous plaitings of muslin have almost
superseded the employment of trained TN
derskrts, which soil SO easily as ts become
items of great cXISnsc to society lady. At
Danziger's, the latest form of these appears
on black foundation, intended for black
satin or silk dresses; they are bordered with
n deep edging of white lace, and are very
anJsomely gotten up. There is
GRAND REVIVAL OF SATIN
for evening dresses (Which is used either for
the entire drcss.eo In combination with tule,
Grape, faille or velvet. A lovely costume was
fashioned of cicl-blue satin and crepe de chine
Of the same shade. ThS train skirt of the
former material is trimmed in front with one,
plated hounces Of the same, measuring
each six inches in depth, the upper nounce
heigg headed to form o stand-up
rnfc n The The overskirt ,n .tn OF the &C, crepe a, Dc
kles, Whie the. back train breadth de-
scendso undraEcd, and is trimmed on the
. lower edge with plisse nounce and plated
ruche of the same The satin corsage is
shaped in the cuirass style with low neck
trimmed with revers of the same, and has the
elbow sleeves edged with lace. A reception
dress is of bronze colored Lyons satin, prin
cess shaped, with draperies Of old gold velvet
trimmed with a fringe to match. On the
lower part Of the drapery wide bronze Bow
spreads out, fastened with a gigantic buckle
OF gold and bronze beads. The buckle is re-
peated at the sides, fastening back the drapery
ts w Jnh n int fro in
finished into three fringed-out lapels Over
the bodice Is arranged a double tichu o.
bronze satin and velvet forming 8
point at the back, and fastened or
the bosom with buckle. The sleeves
come to the elbow and are finished with
quilted frlling and drapery of lace. party
dress of white faille for young girl is very
simple and pretty in style; it is draped witt
in 'front.' white in the back; it is slightl,
looped up with white ribbon and SPRAYS o