The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-03-22

falls landed me at Taavsra dc Ia Regina, where be-
lievs, battle was fought in 1909 fully re-
allied that was In for 81 tough job" The river
wocnd all over the country, and chargeibe in
temper rs a novelists heroine. Sometimes IL was
mile wide. running slowly and with as
calm and smooth surface as a lake. Again,
1t the next bend Of the stream. the river would
dart toward range OF hills, and, instead OF going
around them, a. its previously erratic would
have led me to expect, plough straight through the
solid rocks. Then It would become narrow as .
canal, deep and rapid n mil race In some parts
the stream hurried along with the speed OF express
train.
WILD COUNTRY.
The country was utterly wild, and II un-
usual thing to paddle from morning I'll night without
seeing a human being AS / knew nothing OF the
river, except that was bound for Lisbon, 1t may
easily be imagined that l vas not easy In my mind
did not know but that the next angle in Canyon
might land me in whirlpool over precipice Dur
ing the 1rst i've days passed thirty waterfalls
GLOOMY CANYONS.
On the sixth day entered upon dreadful bit OF
river work. The ragus through high mountains,
and ali sides the scenery or the widest KIND
II one had eye for the romantic, then tho
to show u or to forever alter hold his peace. Oen
the stream was completely darkened by the high cliffs
and the iorebodiug waters seemed 10 grow deathly
was heartily glad to the sixth day with good rest
straw bed the floor OF friendly PEASANTS hut.
THE GYPSY RAPIDS.
As It neared the Portugal line the river lost
none Of its terrors. Ny health remained good,
but I had lost some flesh. l could not help
feeling the effects OF SO much hard work aud
exposure. Every day was q series OF dangerous
struggles and every hour ended with moments OF
anxiety. On the evening OF February 10, from six TIL
|
G,tauo tho Gypsy rapids,-saito the Devil would DO
more appropriate name Tor IT, The current about
thirty kilometres nour and the rocks up like
great vail on either side, leaving only strip OF pale
twilight overhead. The stream took abrupt turn
about every hundred yards l came through safely,
| but thoroughly exhausted. When got ashore 1 had
look into the top OF my dress to II my hair
| had turned white
PORTUGAL
| On February IL the Portugal line was reached. l
had found tho trip much longer than 1t estimated
TO DO and found that the most accurate maps give no
| true data upon which such a journey be
made. l had bcen under many obligations
to the Spanish government tor provisions and in.
formation furnished me along tho way through the
province OF Caceres The country people wero always
kind TO me- After leaving Montaivao two days Of
padding among the hills brought mo to Abrantes, .
town Of considerable size. here the country spread
| out into vast plain and tho became a
braod, majestic stream. Thence three days moro Of
pleasant though uneventiul down stream work landed
me In the capital OF Portugal shot during the
voyage 102 waterfalls and rapids The highest fall 4
went over fully. nfty feet. suffered Tor pro-
visions on Two occasions, living for three days on
bread and olives.
RECEPTION
1t docs not become mo TO speak OF tho reception
accorded me here. Long before reached the city
met by fleet Of small sail and row boats
and soon alter many small steamers, loaded with
excursionists, came to welcome me- Tho crowd
on the piers Is stated by the Lisbon jour
mails to have about 200, 900 people, and as
have always believed the newspapers IN America
not disposed TO question the statistician OF tho
leading journal OF Portugal While passing the Royal
Arsenal l was congratulated the success Of the
voyage BY officer representing the Minister OF tho
Navy
GIBRALTAR.
/ conioss to finding myself in o very debilitatcd
condition. and really believe could not endured
the strain much longer Tho entire distance WINS
than 1000 kilometrss. intend to leave in tho
early part Of March for Africa hope 10 60 TO Glib
ral,ar, and from there to the opposite shore.