The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-05-03
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

TRIMMINGS FOR MANTLES, DRESSES, ETC.
The new fringes most used for mantles are
called double fringes, as they have second
row of fringes at the back, which falls over the
heading and entirely concsals ii. These are
chosen in the stylish grass fringes of fiattened
threads, and the whalebone fringes with wider
thread or tapes, also aattened. AS these are
new, they are expensive, the plainest whale
bone fringe costing 50 yard; similar to this
is the willow braid fringe in handsome designs.
When beads are added, the grass and whale-
bone fringes cost from So 70 up till very rich
patterns with the beading wrought In Gothic
points cost as high as Sc. Moss headings for
fringes are very stylish, with tassels Of grass
intermingled with jet. There are also open
lace-like headings to whalebone frnges that
ara tied in tassels. at $3.50 yard. Mourning
fringe is not as plain as formerly; the newest
has crimped fringe for background, upon
which are tied tassels of grass fringe; other
patterns are very handsome crimped tape and
grass with jet on the heading and in the tas-
sells; these cost 81 or SIS yard. Pretty head
ings for fringes in mossy designs are msde of
crimped twist with jet beads, at S1.55 q yard.
New psssamenteries have opened star-aud-
compass patterns instead Of leaves and vines
and cost from 80 cents yard upward Worsted
galloons for colored dresses are from 10 cents
a yard to Is cents. There is less of the wide
galoon used, now that Breton costumes have
made it so common. The preference instead Is
for several rows of round, square or soutache
braid, quite narrow, yet not so narrow as that
used for braiding patterns. This braid is placed
in parallel rows quite near together, aud some
times touching, though this produces the effect
of a single wide braid; gayer way for youth
full dresses is to pnt thread of gilt or silver
braid between the narrow black braid The
colored fringes for bourette dresses are made of
two or three colors to match those in the dress,
and consist of tassels crimped parts, flies of
silk tied on, and the mulberry or caterpillar
designs. These are of silk for silk bourettes
and damask silks, while wooden fringes are
made in similar colors and designs for dresses
entirely of wool. Pink and rose tassels alter
nate with beige colored grass, or else beige Is
with dark brown, or white with blue, or red
with cream color. Amber beads, the paler
beige colored beads, and the Illuminated rain
bow beads enter into many rich fringes and
passementaries. The clair de luns trimming
has had its brief season Of favor, and now looks
old fashioned; the other bead Trimmings are
very popular at present. but they too will prob
ably be a transient fashion.
NEW BoNNETs.
New suggestions are found 10 the Paris bon
nets brought out later in the season. The
haudsomest chips and straws have the inside Of
the front lined with dark velvet or satin, and
edged with single row of gold braid or else
the new rainbow braid that has tinsel threads
OF many colors to match the rainbow beads;
they have no other face trimming. A great
many beige-coored chip bonnets are in the late
importations. Some of these are trimmed
throughout with the same shade, having wa
tered beige ribbon strings, satin or gros grain
loops, ostrich tips, and darker brown velvet for
bandeau or fllet in front aud for facing the
brim and curtain. Other beige chips have deep
cardinal red trimmings mixed with beige-color,
and for flowers wreath Of small strawberries
| with brown foliage. A new fancy in white
| chip bonnets is to have at intervals rows of
| rainbow tinsel braid Some new chip bonnets
| are merely brims and curtain bands without
| crowns. The vacant space for the crown is sur
rounded with wreath OF flowers that form
fringe, and this fringe fills in the empty crown.
Gilt rings, through which the silk or satin is
passed around the crown, are on many new
hats. The large Alsacian bow is now made of
double-faced ribbon in many loops, with sever
al ends indented or notched ike saw teeth.
| Many pipings are on the edges of straw bon-
nets; some have the piping folds alternating
| with gilt soutache. A double bow of satin rib
| Ton is set on straw curtains, and covers them
entirely. Many rough straws or else figured
satin straw bonnets are shown some are all
| black, some white, some beige-color, and many
have gilt braid introduced, or else white lines
| are interviewer in the black. For dress bonnets
for summer, beige tulle is embroidered by hand
| in colors, such as olive pale blue, or pink.
| Gilded Greek fillets are imported to put
| in the front Uf the tonnets. Brooches of dead
| gold are the most successful ornaments. Thick
| fringes of buds fail from under upturned curtain
| bands; other bonnets have pleated crepe lisse
| under tba curtain. Alarge gilt screw is an or
| nament of questionable taste seen on French
| bornets Less fruit is worn than last seas on,
| though there are some luscious looking berries,
/ cherries and plums. A novelty is a wreath
made of loops of ribbou-grass, in green stripes
| and in maple red, with many ends of the grass
cut in trident forks. Sage-leaf wreaths have
stylish shades of green. aud for color they are
mixed with scarlet poppies. Many entire
wreaths are in beige shades; these look well
| when representing piue cones, burs, thistles
and seed pods, but the "sere and yellow" leaves
are more especially popular; these are used on
black and beige-colored bonnets. The olive
| shades OF mignonetto make it a most popular
| flower. 1t is combined with Jaequeminot roses
and spikes of white lilacs
For little girls hats the novelty is hne Manila
with wreath of flowers painted by hand on the
soft brm. Wild flowers, poppies bluets, and trail
ing arbutus are artistcally painted on these
pretty hats. Boyish looking straw hats with
rolled brims and fiat crowns, or else round
Derby crowns are also shown for young girls
besides these are the pointed Japanese crowns
and the picturesque TSrolean. with the jaunty
sailor hats.