The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-12-29


delicate roseolored and white brocade sk and plain
ciel blue faille. The waist and the sknt 70
nearly half its depth are formed OF INC
length by the blue silk At the foot the skirt -
borered by neatly laid knife plating, over
Swallowed by shelllike arrangement OF the procaae
silk. edged with narrow knife plating or the iaiiie
scarf drapery formed OF the two yarietiee OF SILK
covers the skirt as to rob it of the singular anu
it. The trimming is of white and rose-eolored
lamine fringe, with tufts OF apple blossoms With
out foliage. combining the folds Of the drapery. Inc
waist is cut square neck. and filled in with crepe
lisse and Bretonne while the elbow sleeves OF blue
silk. finished with revers Of the brocade SILK
and filled in with ruchipgs OF lace.
A third graceful and lovely toilet s composed OF
pink dainasse silk satin and faile. The "Lamballe
polonaso Is made principally 81 tne asmasse. ana -
apron of SATIN richly embroidered in silver, and the
long train of failie has plating OF the same.
aud heading of damasse. cut in points and falling
over the uppermost of the satin hounces The elbow
are finished wn Of aesp 81 ana
mented at the toe and on the instep with hiigree
silver butterflies.
This was made after the style Of the "Adrienne'
princess dress. and is remarked for its grand air
Principally Of heavy. cream colored satin. the
front is cut Pompadour at the neck and
separated little below the waist, showing "a
skirt of garnet velvet, ornamented with two
scarfs Of cream colored crepe de chine. that are
trimmed with heavy garnet silk fringe with tassels
of cream colored chenille intermixet The fronts
are turned back with large revers OF garnet
brocaded velvet and satin, and caught together
with large bow Of velvet pnd satin over
the long train. which is trimmed with
cascade Of plaitings made of the crepe de chine
pIaitngs Of the same material extend around the
foot of the dress. The cuffs and deep collar are OF
velvet and the slippers with Spanish arch. are OF
coored satin with garnet colored res IS i'll EN-.
THE ..LAErIrIA" STYLE.
An exquisite toilet IL OF pale blue brocade. satin,
fae anu plush The ''Laetitia" polonaise is of the
brocade, and the cut away fronts show vest OF
silk plush above and below the waist Yala.
and trimmed with chenille fringe There
are two long tabs in the back faced with satin and
surmounted by a rosette and the long pointed train
OF ialc. trimmed with plaitings and ruchings OF
satin. The collar and cuffs OF plush and the but
tons of finely wrought silver
FLORAL GARSITuRE.
There is de 'ided outcropping Of floral garnture
on evening dresses this season. Flowers or one
kind rather than mixture seem to be preferred.
large bouquets to hold in place the folds OF
the drapsry or small bouquets placed here
An elegant white satin dress has the train
studded with violet pansies. while garlands
Of panses cross the taber garland carl outlining the
that trim the sleeves. Roses. primroses and other
blossoms arranged with velvet autumn leaves
dresses. The waist bouquet Is one OF the most de-
cided requirements OF the mode and the little breast
knot OF pansies or violets one OF the most popular
caprices
DRESS coLoRs ARTIFICIAL LIGHTS.
All ladies know that color presents different
tint in the day time to that shown in artificial light
The color of texture gains loses by the latter
according to the amount OF yellow contained in it.
Violet. which is q complimentary color to yellow. ia
dccomposed in gaslight the blue disappears and it
becomes red. Blue, If pure. thus borders on grecn
if dark it appears harsh aud black and II pale loses
color and becomes gray. Turquoise silk. which by
sunlight is beautiful. loses its brilliancy and ap
pears faded.
In ascending the scale Of cold colors yellow green's
are among the prettiest for evening Thus.
applcgrcen is not far from emerald. and emerald.
without changing tint, gains in brlliancy and rich
ness. Amber already beautiful acquires richness;
straw color slightly reddens in the folds; sulphur
does not change. There is nothing perhaps, more
charming than maize, for, without losing its pc
tint.
The same effect is produced in red shades. for the
yellow glare Of evening lights. which is SO fatal to
blue, augments their splendor Ruby is heightened
in its beauty particularly in plush Materials orange
red brightens and pure orange takes flame color.
Black and white DO not escape the action OF arti-
fetal light Those beautiful blacks so well named
the ravens wing, become duh and heavy by not
retaining the blue shade which gives them life and
depth. White on the contrary, improves at night.
and. If faded, revves. For this reason actresses
often ask for white that has lost its color believing
that the fooghts will restore its lost brilliancy This
white is called lanc-de-lumiere
color which retains it's charm is silver gray
always pleasing and disfinga<. 1t even gains
slightly rose color hue; but should the gray contain
suspicion of blue, like pearl gray the blue tint is
lost and the distinctive characteristic Of pearl gray
disappears.
very handsome and useful evening cloak Is OF
d,uble-faced soft plush in the circular shape The
edge is finished by . simple hem, about one inch in
width. The fronts faced with silk. and
silk lined bournous hood, garnshcd with
large silk tasselled cord. and rich, oxdzed silver
clasp. This cloth is shown In variety Of colors-
ecru, steel and iron grays brown and drab. self
lined with blue, scarlet or some other lively color.
Minivcr cloth is also used for evening coaks and
closely resembles the finest minivcr fur.
An opera MANTLE fit for Eastern princess. is
made OF heavy white silk matelasse. with red gold
lncr uys1v NJ
and beading.
The latest freak Of fashion is q celluloid watch
case and these very unique and pretty. They are
finished ut the edges with q narrow gold band and
the handle and winder are also of gold.