New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1878-01-12
LIFE AND HABITS ABROAD.
BY BAYARD TAYLOR.
WAYS OF LIVING IN ITALY.
From The Weekly 7r'eil''

-, hit of life n ia only through such familiar
oo,,,.int.ncc coupled with a tolerable knowledge
of the language, that stranger may inteillgeh.y
ipdae Of the character Of the people among WHOM He
is soiourninc The tourists who merely pass 10 ana
fro giving their chief attention TO scenerF aI anu
architecture are liable TO be deceived by theH nIs'
inuresSons of the population or by their own per-
sonal experiences In Europe, my rule mas "WayS
hoo, IN discover those hotels in the large clties
With ara natronzed by the people of the country
a. least 70 avoid "a far az possible those which are
crowded with English and American travellers. In
tbe latter one finds that the atmosphere and many
of the bal,ts of his home follow him; IN the for
NOR ono is compelled to adapt ones self TO other
WAYS Of life and thus uneonsciosly acquires an IN
sight into their character.
In this and succeeding sketches, however 90
not propose to adopt any strlctiy-delhed plan OF
presenting my own "reminiscences OF life IN o'ner
lands shall turn from one to another, as they
NAV arise and give such illustrations as are most
distinctly remembered. In some cases. tho expert
ences lie far apart, as l happen to have VISITED
Europe seven times within the last thirty years I'D
Others the great material changes winch are harhy
less portant there than in our own country curing
the same period have perhaps already made obsolete
some habits Of life which once observed. ms Is
not matter of much consequence, since whatever
the contrasts which they present-pOssibiy, the
hints they nav occasionally furnish OF means where
nv our own habits might be somewhat varied, to our
general advantage.
turn TO Italy, first, because the common report
brought back by American travellers-until within
the last ten or fifteen years. at least-has been SO
signaly unjust to the Italian people 1t IS true that
ignorant strangers cheated in Italy, as they arc
here or in any other highly civilized country Amonth
ago met an English gentleman, who was absolutely
frightened by 4 brutal hsckman into paying ~ for
two hours of carriage. Nhen anything
similar happens to an American in Rome, he IS too
apt to make an Italy responsible The continual
pilgrimage from all the rest of the world to a land
so ilustriOus in its history gOrons IN Its art so
attractive in its scenery and climate, has created,
as matter Of course, class of people who prey
upon the pilgrims This is simply the law OF canse
and effect Bnt know people on the face OF the
earth who, considering their former condition. and
the amount of intelligence allowed TO them, have
shown more patriotism. more patience under heavy
burdens, capacity for genuine progress, than
the Italians. The common people" peasants" as
they are dramatically, yet somewhat contemptu-
ously called-possess the elements of large and
vigorous nationality, and the regeneration of their
country az that of France and Spain, will uti-
matelv come from them.
The Italians live very simply. The country peo-
pie are content with diet which most American
farmers would despise. They have four necessaries
of life, the supply of which is always first consid-
ered-bread, maccaroni, oil and wine. The ordinary
bread is coarse and rather dark. but decidedly more
nutritious than that made from cur fnely-bolted
American flour. We imagine that bread is good in
proportion as it is rhte, and thus lose much Of its
best property. The Italians sometimes cook macca-
in OFF and from when
ever possible, in meat BROTH with the addition Of
cheese and tomatoes. The olive oil, which each
farmer makes for himself, is far better and whole
somer than lard in fact, it is almost equal to fresh
butter Whatever is fried in it is sweet, paatable
and easily digested. great many Americans,
knowing olive oil only as medicine, shCdder when
they hear il spoken of as an article of food.
Yet / have often seen them. in Italy, heartily
relisliug their chops, and Omelettes, and
fried fish, without the least suspicion of the
fact that much of the flavor was due TO the OIL.
Wine is universal article OF consumption for man,
woman and child. Yet there is very little Intem-
pcrance among the people-eertany not more than
one-temth If what we find in our own country
Wine onions, and oil. to great extent, supply the
place of neat but eggs and fish also plentiful,
aud usually cheap The flesh of pigs and goats
the raising Of both animals being little expense to
even the smallest landowners is much more com
mon than veal or beef. Old or disabled horses are
fattened and slaughtered, and many an unconscious
visitor to Rome, Naples Florence, takes his share
OF roasted horse in the restaurants. After little
experience learned TO distinguish the flesh and
having no prejudice against the use Of il, fire.
quently ordered il for dinner. 1t has coarser
grain than beef and slightly paler color; the
flavor is similar, but with suggestion of sweet
ness II the horse be not too DID, he furnishes q
really paatable roast.
1 remember once, many years ago, entering the
house of small farmer in the Valley of the Arno,
to procure drink Of water. 1t was noon, and the
hrsbandman had Just from the field for his
dinner. His wife was in the kitchen, preparing
sort of soup which exhaled the appctziDg odor
Of onions. and two children, a boy Of twelve and
girl of eight, lowering around with faces which
expressed healthy hunger The man went out
for the water, az / supposed; but the dark
carthcnwsre pitcher which he brought was filed
with cool wine from the cellar A plate with
slice of dark bread and a pinch of salt, was
also placed on the table. In to my question,
he informed me that the house and An adjoining
field, olvc-crehard and vineyard in one containing
some seven or eight acres, were all his property.
Docs tins give you n living I" asked. " Yes,
can manage" said he. You see all my family
we use about two barrels Of oil and eight barrels Of
wine IN year. Pigs and chickens, You know, cost
nothing 70 keep. When the season is toleTable
have some oil and wine to sell. do work. now and
then, on the Counts place Assunta my wife, makes
something by her spinning and if we fall little be-
hind one year we make it up the next. Oh, yes, we
IRE wei contcntod.0
have no doubt that this family represented the
circumstances Of hundreds Of thousands Of Others,
throughout Italy. The people work steadily, but
witt or and tba,- tot,a tbo,r frlI
share of the many holidays which their church al
lows them. Their houses always solidly built of
stone, and last for centuries; but only those who
are in exceptionally good circumstances have separ-