The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-07-28
THE GREAT EXHIBITION.
Elabora tely Worked Articles
Of the Female Toilet.
THE LANGUAGE OF GEMS.
Latest Novelties in Italian and
French Straw.
EMBROIDERED HANG[NGS IN WHITE.
French, Swiss and Irish Lace
work Contrasted.
TART.E TJNEN AND PANELS.
EMBROIDERED HANGINGS IN WHITE.
TABLE LINEN AND PANELS.

to. Embroidery in relief len bosse)-tae invention
Of which is attributed b. Pitny to the
Phrygians-s admirably initiated by painted kid en-
bossed satin, and by inlad wood mosaic for blot
tsrs, ladies' cascs, boxes &C. both are faithfully re-
produced by wafer coloring deep border OF olive,
ard sandal wood art,stically curs round soft,
supple silk This decoration having all the appearances
Of heavy flooring when lyirg fiat on writing table
The delicate, aromatic perfume which Is peculiar TO
those woods tmprsgnates the under lining
THING OF NEAUrY.
In the same order oil ideas must be mentioned
novelty from best fancy work firm Il is speci.
men IN imitation OF Byzantine relief work executed
with the needle but to which machine sewing can be
applied The ancient Greeks used enamel, but
here cloth Is used In oil co.ors on q gold
colorsd ground. The design Is antique, such
q one as Homer might have described
being BY fair Helen. II Is an interlaciEg
OF spocryphaa animals wriShing, meandering and
lengthening M tho shape OF weapon This style
OF work, stated to DO adopted when tho present
Lyons stock OF embroidery Is exhausted. II favors
the Introduction or false and precious stones and OF
gold and silver now lavshcd Questionable tissues, and
to ornament ssomachArs In accordance with
the styles favored by celebrities whose dress Is now
copied.
THE LANGUAGE GEMS
Stones have their Language as woll as flowers.
Rhcnsh and Scotch pebbles will DO employed well
as real Tho following arc the symbolic meanings
explained by designers, snamellers, jewellers and
lapidaes all these trades being caIlea In requsiton
by embroide sers who have created new modsls4--
Jasper faith; sapphire, hope; emerald, virginI-
y; onyx innocence; aquamarns, science; amethyst,
humility topaz, wisdom and hrmncss; sardonyx.
maryrdom; chrysote. penitence. II will be noticed
that these meanings were retained IN the decoration
OF early Church vestmens, Tor tho lexicon OF ecces
astical mbrosdcry teaches that emerald green sym
bolizsd st. John tho Evangelist; Jasper, ST. Peter;
onyx. ST. Philip; amethyst, ST. Matthew; sapphire,
ST Andrew, &c
SPANISH HASDIwoRK.
By the side OF modern incrustations there are
again specimens OF Spanish basement for plas-
trous pockets, revers, &c This 10 floss silk covering
with but.onholo stitch pieces OF parchment cut
out in arabesquss VI delicate shading Beautiful
| samples are exhibited. In the Italian section Is
| remarkable pioce OF rainbow coored noodle point
that costs 200 francs per metre. II is, OF course
msdpval and executed with silks as fine tho thread
used Brussels lace Botoro costly textures for the
decoration and oil the person are completed usen-
ton must OF tho only specimen OF real British
lace exhibited. 1t entire robe or Honiton, said
to be 200 guincas WORTH The design 10 modelled In
tho most advanced style Of Flemish lace OF the
| tenth century, combining open rgentan Bride wnh
| the nnest Mecllin.
| POINT
Ther0 " very inferior display Of Irish point and
Maltese lace but, the other hand Irish bog oak
sry much admired; not only because 1t Is boz, but
the designs artistic and genuine reproductions OF
antique design. An old cd sha ped jewel casket
Is one OF The genuine articles carved out OF bog
II represents ST. Patrick preaehin. TO some grim
| looking Druids The whoSconcsytion Is pure archn.
| ology. This Exposition Introduces to French ANA
tours three crosses or rather three very old
| ones, a. they have existed IN Ireland since the
fifth century, but now TO Pariaans. The Clon-
macnoiso AID Aastorboyce crosses are relief after
tho Greek, Latin and Maltese The latter especially
with arms enclosed IN circles, Is noticed for tho
beauty OF tho surface, It being covered with rich
ailegorlcal sculpture. Tho A. Il. T. tforsver which
inscr,plop has now been worn lsdiss' armets
throats Tor 80 many years, Is replaced by bog me-
Gallons bearing the much swcetsr word, "Astors"
my darngl or erin gob ragh,7 IN assembiags OF
| gutturais which Franch gentlemen call tres
original. though they are dear to the chill
drsn Of Erin for their hoary, never 70 DO
forgotten hsartness Psrsians VINO knew nothing
about Irish pearls and IRISH harps are having their
education improved by tho urors with which persons
arou nd tho President snvostins In both They
told the pearl worn on bog IN honor OF the
Prince OF Wales having become member OF ST. Pat
rick's Order This suffcas for homage to the Prince
and TO Marshal McManop whose name 10 PatricS ana
M whose thigh hc might taken MS origin, after
the fSsnion OF those dem gods VINO took birth IN
Jupiters.
Among the beautiful thin gs u Is pity 10 SEQ ex.
hibtted Tor the deceralioA OF gentle bosom are
dozens OF the following bras:-rns bird OF Paradise
| called Phaon ruby aud purhs); tIo bird called DE
Bonspar,e (smbcr goid ana green); Tho Australian
Carsss uoy, white aud ~ cen ofeastsdl; the sapho,
with TAIL called famine 81 feu- Among the oirds named
Seluspnorus tiny ones with sulphur, goid nasiur-
| tiua anu yellow patches GA ths'r breasts NO gem
STRAW FOR uArs.
study which It Is interesting TO make. and which
10 easily acquired thanks 10 very clever clAssinc'-
uon Of the product IL 81 culture as 1t Ia
carried Tuscany IL Is tesn III twelve processes,
plated straw ha, Tue OF straw used in Tuscany,
orroneoasy called Leg horn. grows near Florence
20 be exposed 10 ram II 10 wiE,er softer aud liner
| than any other anu plated differently than other
WIN with pun.,.Sie and ironcn s.raws, Su, Italian
| straw has rival hat made an Florence and sx-
hibtsd as nrst rate specimen Is trimmed round with
a garland OF straw IN twelve stages there are there
iors twelve shades, and each KIND H. either Hover
| grass, rush or some other horai ornamehti tho
mInqilng different sorts Is harmonious In the
extreme and tue ensemble chsste. Parasois made Of
straw not elegant, but straw embroidery on whte
| tuilo looks ike Renewed silk work IN many coiors
| by the side OF THESE straw applications ia tho
Italian section n silver blsacncd screen OF rare
handle IS vi Forenttne carving over
| jujubs wood. Tho whole IS not heavier than pea
cocks leather An Italian nat IN tile Rubsns shape,
| ana another called .Sir Joshua Reynolds" have
crowns OF velvet IN the style OF hats worn IN tho
periods during winch these great artists hourshed An
idea this to DO adopted straw Of any origin. 1t is
impossible tina, ha, made entirely Of Italian straw
| csn assume any but the "Geaner" SHAPE whereas
Win the addition OF velvet caul It takes character
and 10 truly handsome RUBY. blue aud black are The
/ only vclvets recommended.
| A TAPESTRY REVIVAL.
OF all the industrial urts now revived by an ever
inc reasng taste Tor the medeval styles, one OF tue
most important Is embroidery IN SILK, goid SILVER
l cbsAiile, thrcad anu cotton THIS most extensive
branch OF trade depends greatly on tho talent oil special
| dcsi0nsrs, Tor much oil the embroidery admired Is
| maciAne made; 0ut the best executed by hand 10
| almost ~ valuable as lace. The business has
| acquires considerable development In centres Tor
| meriy famed Tor the manufacture oil wbte
| goods. suen gauze ,arlatan, net and musna
Thsso centres are Tarare, 81. Quentin, Nancy PARIS
AIencon anu Lunsvillc In France: Glasgow IN Scot.
Iand and many towns In ireland: ST. Gail aud Appen.