The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-12-29
SPAIN AND THE SPANIARDS.
A Visit to the Historical City
OF VittOria.
ULYSSES AND ALFONSO.
Growing Uneasiness Throughout
the Basque Provinces.


to be twice told tale. Some incidents connected
with the journey OF the exPresident worthy OF
remembrance. The pomp, the parades, the dinners.
the display OF military and social attractions have
been repeated here, in other European lands.
You must add to this that Spanish courtesy
Is always stately and gracious This air
Of sincerity adds to the value OF
courtesy. The American will tell you in hurried.
rolling fashion, 'Glad to you" Come again"
Take drink; and straightway you vanish and are
forgotten. If you a week later you will require
an introduction. The spaniard will tell you. This
is your house You have taken possession of it,"
You must not suppose that this involves the right to
move your furniture and set up housekeeping. He
what the American means, but says it in q
more impressive manner. In the reception OF
General Grant there the differ
1t stately and grave. The General
might lave been conqueror coming into
his kingdom; he might have been the
fifth Charles. risen out of his Escural tomb, come
back to what had become of his vast dominion.
He would have been received pretty much as our
President received. There would have been
ceremonies speeches. attentions. You would miss
the crowds that surrounded him at Christiania and
all through enthusiastically eager crowds. You
would miss the cheers that followed him through
England. The spaniard goes in a crowd except
ignt. The moment of supreme enthusiasm only
comes when Frascueo drives the point Of his sword
into the neck Of the painting and wounded bull.
A GLIMPSE BIARRITz
II was the intention Of General Grant when be left
Paris TO make short visit to the Pyrenees, and es
pecialiy Pau But when he came to Bordeaux he
met by a message from the King OF Spain, who was
at the time at vittora, directing the nanauvres of
his troops and who especially requested that the
General would honor him with visit. If there is
thing the General diskes il is reviewing troops
but the message from the King was so cordial
that it could hardly be declined Accordingly Pau
was postponed. and the General went far
Biarritz, meaning to rest night and the
frontier day Barritz very beautiful. After
cloudy Paris there something joyous the
shine which lit up the old Biscayan town and
streamed ont over the And the seal How glori-
IL to it, really it, after much
living among rivers and hedges and to feel that the
farthest waves washed the coasts Of dear America
Biarritz il a small frontier town. wher. the French
come in winter and the Spaniards in summer. II
juts out into the sea- and has peculiar
rocky formation, which breaks into
vines and caverns. and admits Of quaint
walks and drives. Barritz might have lived for
few centuries its drowsy existence like hundreds Of
other towns which have a coast and sand over
known, had not the last Napoleon builded himself a
seaside residence. His wife had fancied Barritz in
early Spanish days and il is supposed the house was
built 10 please her. But from that moment Biarritz
became famous. Many of the most interesting
events Of the Third Empire happened this
beach. Yon will read about the time they md
in the books of Prosper Merimee. Barritz seems 10
have been to the Empress Eugene what the Tranou
gardens in Versailles we're to Marie Antoinette. It
here that she could do she pleased and it was
Spain that old friends could drop in and talk
about old times II here that Bismarck before
the German and Austrian war to ind ont what Napo-
leon would do. Napoleon quite charmed by
the young German statesman, and talked
into neutrality which he afterward re.
garded as one OF the grave Of his
reign IT this bamboozling of Napoleon
by Bismarck. this making the Emperor believe that
il he would only keep his hands of during the Aus
tran war he might DO rs he pleased afterward. that
began the Of Prussian triumph. Napoleon
kept his hands Of. Austria was thrown and Ma
pocon found not only that il impossible for him
70 do az he pleased but that he last face to
face with the ancient aud hereditary foe Of France.
POLITICAL MEMorns BrAnEIrz.
These are among the thoughts that come as you
stroll along the beach and look out upon the sea.
u rolls calmly when Bismarck and Napoleon
marck has serious problems before him. and
sits pcrpexed and Wondering over his united DER
many, which somehow does not unite as harmoni-
0usly was hoped, but engenders assassination,
and standing armies. and deficiencies. and commmn-
ism. sits prc,naurcly old man. bent and gray be-
tore his time. Napoleon has vanished into night.
The fair Eugenie finds her home under
the cold gray skies Of chiscIhursi aud no longer
comes TO her Biscayan summer resort. Her house
i closed. II l. large square unpretending pile,
that looks from distance like sugar refinery
grain elevator Il ooks so big and plain. am told 1t
viii not be open until the Emperor comes 70 his own
again which prospect not very apparent. In the
meantime the little town. missing its Bonapartes
and Btsmarcks. Mornys aud Merimes. and
all the following Of the court. has fallen
into quiet, old fashioned ways There IL a casino
where you may have cards and coffee; a singing
saloon. where you may drink beer and hear VII
vacions young woman not oyorcloihed sing you the
latest songs from Paris. n II happens that your
knowledge of tho French tongnc Is Indefinite there
will he no remorse ~ conscience in hearing the songs
There several h1tels-ono ~ them among the
finest in Europe. have high authority Tor saying
that in this hotel is Inc only cook in Europe who can
broil chicken IN manner satisfying 10
the American taste. There are stores where
you buy worsted commodities aud an manner Of
knick.knacks from Paris. Tho sireets--I believe
however, there IL only Onc--are picturesque you
tho Basque costumes. formers who yoke their
by the head and compel them to haul tho
heaviest loads. think the General was much moro
interested IN this than IN any thing csoinrh more
than IA the memories aud remnants ot the
Third Empire--and tried 20 solve the problem
lie had seen oxen handled IN many
ways. but in this pyrencean fashion
The II studied the more useless Il ap-
pearcd. suppose il IL some old Basque tradition
and has CONE down from ths Cartaginians There
gardens and aromatic plants that perfumed the
air. Tlicrc were walks on the sea and on the edge
OF cliffs that overlooked the This i all 81 Biar.
ritz. which fingers 4 sunny spot In tho memory,
for here you have the and here also you have
tokens ~ spain
ryaLIsH OK rrAts.
We entered Spain about noon, passing many