The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1878-08-15
The Trlanon Styles Of Dresses-Sum'
mer Hats.

In farlS nave OtCOIuc LH0 IdSulOu VI ClC
summer there, and have already APP
peared here at the summer resorts.
The butterfly over-skirt worn with gay
short dresses for the country is the
of paniers. This over
skirt is short, round and wing-like on
the hips, while the back shows the con-
return to bouffant drapery.
The curtain over-skirt is another fash
ion of drapery that recalls the dresses
of Marie Antoinette. In some instances
this curtain is so deliberately draped as
to suggest upholstery, hence it name;
but the palmer models are graceful,
and are especially commended for COM
bination dresses and for refurbisning
the dresses of last season. The black
silk dresses that Worth is said to COM
mend most highly have this curtain
over-skirt made of brocade, while the
train and apron are of plain silk. Three
or four flowing back breadths form the
train, and in some cases are lOoped by
tapes underneath to look quite bouffant.
These breadths are merely edged with
narrow anticipating that extends up
the sides to the waist. The three short
breadths have wider plaitings at the
bottom to represent petticoat. From
the front of the belt descend two bro
caded silk breadths that curve outward
to the sides, and are hidden under the
plaitings. The lower edges and the
front are finished with fringe. A jabot
made of many narrow loops of the
silk, stiff1y interlined, and perhaps
faced with satin, passes down the mid
die of the front breadth. This design
is so simple that ladies can easily make
it at home, and thus anticipate the
style that it is said will prevail next
season.
In Paris the simplest fabrics are made
up in Trianon dresses. New chintz
costumes and the Indienne cottons-
soft, fine and closely woven, yet very
light-have the butterfly overskirt or
the curtain drapery precisely like those
seen on the rich brocaded satins and
velvet-striped gauzes. A dainty little
neckerchief completes this dress,
shaped somewhat like the Marie An
toinette tichu, which has gradually
won it's way into favor again. The
cotton kerchiefs are, however, more
usually square, and have a gay border.
The dresses lately described as being
made up entirely of Madras handker-
chiefs are similarly fashioned. There
are also polonaise dresses of gayly-col-
ored ginghams, with panier fullness on
the sides, and revers of contrasting
color, trimmed with white lace. Thus
dark blue gingham pclonaise has a
broad vest of mandarin yellow ging-
ham that is almost covered with white
Russian lace; below the vest the polo
naise is turned up with yellow revers,
and the side are gathered into the back
to give the fullness of paniers. The
skirt has knife-plaitings bound with
the dark yellow; the cuffs and collars
are also yellow, with wide lace laid
smoothly over them to tone down their
high color.
Worth has sent over most beautiful
foulard dresses made in the new Tria-
non styles. One of pale flesh pink has
a demi-train, trimmed with q wide
plated flounce edged with Valenciennes
lace, and above the hem is insertion OF
Valenciennes. A jabot of many loops
of pink satin ribbon and lace is down
the middle of the front breadth, while
the butterfly over-skirt is short and
round on the sides, and long and bout.
FAINT behind. The basque has square
neck and elbow sleeves. Many rows
of plated Valenciennes, trim the front
across like a vest below the open
square; the sleeves are lengthwise rows
of insertion with fOulard bands. Light
blue foulards are made similarly, and
A,,s,, ID ~rvsAl 1rvIstn Mnoh1in lace
Short dresses of plain white organdy
or of dotted Swiss muslin have the but.
terfiy over-skirt with pulled border in
which colored ribbon is run, and the
edge is finished with anticipating
The square-neck corsage and elbow
sleeves are in keeping with such skirts,
A white foulard toilet of this kind is
combined with dark violet blue foulard
which appears as vest below the
Pompadour square of the neck, as a
curtain over-skirt. and as facing of the
broad kilt plaits with which the skirt
is trimmed.
To wear with such dresses at the gar.
den parties for which they are intended
are very picturesque round hats with
broad brims. Some of these are made
of the thinnest white organdy muslin
shirred on fine thread-like wire. The
brim is broad, and made up of this
shirred organdy covered with row Of
duchesse point lace laid on SO that the
scalloped edge will finish the brim.
The crown is smooth, and surrounded
by long, finely-curled white ostrich
plume. The left side of the brim is
turned up in Devonshire style, and a
spray of cream and dark red roses fills
in the space.
Another style suitable for the quaint
new dresses has the brim smoothly COW
cred with antique silk in Pompadour
colors of rose and pink, while inside is
shirred satin, either rose or blue. Only
the crown of the hat is of chip, and
this may be either white, cream or
beige color. A wreath of grasses or OF
gilded oats, or of corn-hOwers or
daisies, is around the crown, and a
pale-coiored ostrich tip is allowed to
stand like pompon.
For inexpensive shade hats there arc
soft rustic straws tar lighter than those
formerl" worn and with satin luster.
Ladies trim them at home in most CO.
QueJClSn ways. 1uC UIAA 10 AAo1 A<SOCu
with silk, either dark Jacqueminot red,
or pale blue, OF dark sapphire. A
wreath of leaves or grasses or daisies
is on the outside. The brim is then
curved upward on the left side. and the
back is turned up more abruptly. and
large square bows of ribbon the color
of the lining are placed on the back and
sides of the brim. The edge of the brim
needs a wire in order to indent the sides
and back.
Nabob gauze is the name of a beau
tiful fabric used by milliners for TRIM
ming round hats and bOnnets. 1t is OF
Oriental colors in ;nch-wide stripes,
and is loosely woven in square meshes.
The rich colors of India cashmeres are
seen in this fabric combining dark yell
low with red, blue and myrtle green.
Lace bonnets for young ladies to
wear on full-dress occasions in the
summer are made in baby shape, or
else regular capotes. The frame con-
sists OF only q few wires and is very
light. 1t is first smoothly covered with