The Portland daily press., 1878-10-30
[HarpeI's Bazlr.1
New York Fashions.

AT tue m0distes openings 0asqu3s and over
skirts prevail in the new dresses but not to the
exclusion of polonaises, though it is remarked
that the latter are usually accompanied by
demi-trains instead of short skirts. A stylish
effect is given to these by having the fronts
turned back in revers or by putting in plas-
tron vest the length of the whole garment and
by making the back drapery higher, or else
having the back very short and filing out the
skirt with houuces in the demi-train; still
others have wide scarf drapsd like an apron,
and stopping abruptly in the side seams. The
arrangements Of two materials in polonaises
are very original. Thus black cashmere
polonaise has the vest and the entire back of
brocaded silk in quaint pattern of cherries
and leaves; the silk vest extends quite low
down, aud its end is concealed by an apron of
cashmere that is edged with the new chenille
fringe, which has no heading, and is of fiuer
strands than that in general use Down the
sides, where the apron stops are straight
pieces, friDged, tied in knot, and left to hang
down from the waist The brocaded back Is
straight and short, like long basque, and the
demi.trained skirt is covered with fiounce,
Still another fashion is that of using s. o,o,
plaid satin bands for trimming black ..hn,o,a
polonaises These pass straight dow :, n. &C.
and two bands are put around ma skirt onj,,
far apart, and separated by lands or ,onlaonv
of plush, either moss greea or elsa daan garDo,
Worth drapas the BISON of basques aud the
slueS Oh tns uress SKIRT TO match. A straight
piece OF s'lk tringed on each end is passed
around the oAek of the deck in easy folds, tied
IN knot on each side of the front. and tba
ehds ieis 10 hang down nearly to the belt A
similar piece also knOtted and fringed, is put
| down the second side seam of the skirt; in some
| instances the apron is turned back at the sec.
ond seams to give the effect of this kuotted
piece. Other basq1es fall open from the waist
line down, and are trimmed from the top of tbs
darts TO the lower edge with bias brocaded
SIX; at the top this gives the neck the effect Of
ssquare, which is also finished out with a
knolted piece like that Just described. and the
standing collar of brocade has a wira 10 hold n
In place. Black dresses will be as much worn
as Iney nave ever 6een, but for the first time
,ney are successfully trimmed with colors Pale
blue and green brocade, and plaid blue and
green velvet, are very popular trimmings for
BLACK silk suits Black silk skirts are still the
foundation OF many costumes, but if the dress
IS meant to be very handsome the pleatipg 10
this lower skirt is of black satin, or else the
SILK ls covered as far as Is visible with black val
vet put on plain, without pleating or frilIs
Fer midwi1ter this velvet skirt will be trimmed
WITH single band of fur. The striped siIks
| that the leading modistes brought last season
| are now seen in the palmer establishments. es-
DecialIy In black for combioiog with plain silk
Inere are many small accessories, such as fans.
VesIs, pags, purses, etc, made of striped satin,
| to wear with striped silk costumes. The shon'
| Plug bags hung at the side are so popular that
they are now made up of the dress m aterial In
checks, plsids, and other woollen goods, and
are nnished with nickel clasps and chains like
those seen on black velvet bags
The square Roman apron Is a new shane for
the oVer-sklrt OF dresses that lave flounces Cow
ering the back breadths from the waist To the
| foot. This apron consists of front gore with
| narrow gore on each side 1t is cut yery long
| and ssraight-lcokiDg, to fall with few wrine
| kles 1t Is simply bordered with bias yelvet At
the foot and up the sides to the belt Il is yerv
pretty in the light drab cloth short suits that are
| being made up for church dresses or for a
brides tIaveling dress, The apron OF dras
cloth has garnet velvet border about six
| inches wide. The back breadths have three or
else i've hounces of drab silk piped with garnet
velyet Inc basque has velvet belt in front
with position back. To wear with such a
dress is plain drab felt bonnet with garnet
| panche and Alsacian bow and striugs Other
drab cloth suits have no hounces; the over
SKIRT Is very deep, and is fully drspsd behind.
| Sometimes very little gilt braid is. introduced
| in these light dresses; but it must be vsry
| carefully done, or it becomes as snowy as
| footman's livery. Garnet is the color most
used for trimmings that contrast with the
| color of the Dress
| Very dainty Balmoral sHirts to be worn uu-
| der handsome short dresses are made of cash
| mere and trimmed with insertion and edeing
| OF torchon lace. Pale blue, ruse and bright
scarlet are the favorite colors. Sometimes the
substantial merlnos are used instead of CASH
mere. The shape is that of short round
| skirt with one side gore, front gore and a
straight back breadth drawn back by draw
lng'strn9 IN a casing. A narrow fiounce or
| mere, edged with lace and ornamented with
| two or three rows of insertion set on quite far
| apart The top is gathered to yoke that fits
smoothly over the hips. There are also SINH
lar skirts made of black foulard silk and trim
med with torchon lace,
To wear beneath these pretty Balmorals are
warm petticoats OF thick zephyr wool crocheted
IN Dsautl1oi pattern in scarlet and white or
else IN gray chinchilla with purple or crimson
borders. These cost six dollars, aud are in
great favor. Colored flannel pettcoass are also
much used, such as pink or b,ue flannel with
torchon trimming or else a founce scallopsd
and needle-worked on the edges or else dark
scarlet flannel embroidered with white or with
black.
White twilled f0ulard is imported made up
as corset covers or under-waists. This silk
washes well, is pleasant to wear, and is Mica
enough to be worn as lining under lace or In-
dla muslin waists that are not lined. Fins
peatiugs like tu ks are lengthwise on the bust
and the neck and sleeves are finished with iu-
sertion and pleated fril of Breton lace.
New wells of black thread net without dots
are in mask shape, with the lower edge pointed
in sharp van1ykes, aud stitched in four or five
rows OF colored silk to suit the prevailing color
of the bonnet.
New neck-ties are of white Canton Grape,
with inserted ends of duchesse lace, or else
pleatings of the popular Breton; the Breton lace
should be three or four inches wide, laid in very
fine knife pleats, and sewed straight across the
ends. Linen cambr.c neck.ties are made in the
same way. When passed around the neck
these ties are now put inside the linen collar,
next the flesh, inste ld of on the outside of the
dress collar; they are then tied in long g-looped
bow in front, and often this bow is all that is
visible of the white tie. Other white ties are of
nansook about four inches broad, hsmmed and
hem.sthched all around.