New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1878-09-14
THE FASHIONS.
RETURN OF COMMON SENSE.

THE HEw SHORT DREss-LoUIs XIV. COAT AND
wAIsTCOAT-NEw ovER-sKIRTs AND PANIERs-
TIE JUIvE DREss-NEw GOODS, PLAIDs, COAT
INGs AND ARMURE CLOTHS.
RumOrs come of impending revolutions. The
antfashion movement is simply harmless spasm but
the short dress movement looks serious It Is sens
Bile, and she who deliberately prOmenades crowded
thoroughtare trained skirt will become notorious
the who persisted in hoop-skirt and ehignon
after both had ceased to be fashionable. Fashion, how
ever arranges things sort duiety firmly surely
All Of imported street dresses round order
to escape the ground and for informal visiting,
promenading and shopping and also for morning wear
The short underskrt is about three yards width The
foreign models closely copied here show only side
gore, leaving straight back which Is sometimes made
with deep yoke cut bias, and again has a drawing
string concentrating all the funess at the back The
material used for tails skirt matter OF indifference
that it Is lined a wide facing Of something sub
stautial suces ana the skirt is entirely concealed
cepting the houuce twelve inches deep the bot
TOM There IL a great preference shown just for
the blt-pleated hounce Tue popular cOatbasque, or
cuaway jacket and vest and overskrt Of the Summer
reproduced In heavier fabrics, very much in the same
shapes The cOatbasque butOned closely up over
the vest from the waist to the collar and again
sOped away, confined by strap two the bust
The vest again simulated by pleatugs Of silk,
with belt added II Is much longer than those lately
worn The shoulder snort and the back OF the
coat IL quite broad, but 10 prevent tmparting
an unbecoming brOaduess TO the back the
three back left open and
are widened In the centre TO make wide box
pleat pieces corresponding with the material Of the
vest are introduced set These additions
or innovations are greatmproyements the plain coat
back Of the past The new oyerskrts made
with apron front just disclosing the edge OF the kilt
peated founce. again they parted the knee
down like curtain drapery. The back Is simply back
Oft Vvoo
side seams and allowed 70 fall IN soft graceful folds,
gradually becoming wider toward the bottom. Another
model shows the long full breadth Of some wide ma
teral caught up here and there, possessing enough
fulness at the top TO make agreeable change from the
ungaceful tightness OF the last Yet another
model has the oyerskirt front revived from worn
five six years which crossed in front at the
belt and then draped away at the Sides permitting the
| front Of the dress to be The turnedup,
or commonly called Tetrousse borders 20
the edges OF OyerskiTts very popular,
having been introduced last season as the washer
woman's oyerskirL The difference exists in the
fact that the oyerskrt itself longer turns up but
there a rerousse band Some OF the oyerskiris have
unique look from being turned up at the bottom and
down at the top about quarter OF yard below the
belt This only suitable slender figures IL Is
des;Ood here that the underskt Is left separate from
the other portions Of the costume matter Of econ
Omy.
It was supposed be before actually It is simply
instead Of pair OF tapping wings" prominent side
pieces affixed and other mOnstrosities succession OF
waving loose folds from hip hip graduated until the
lower folds fall into the natural folds OF the oyerskrt
There need be hidden arrangement beneath. There
are several designs for the back OF the dress.
handsome French model showing street
dress made Of plaid India cashmere and velvet
has the skirt with peated rule OF bias plaid, edged
with velvet and pped with silk. The plaid overskrt
has wide peplum velvet at the sides finished at the
seams with long-looped bows Of brOch6 ribbon, the
small brocaded flowers showing the cOors Of the cos
tune. Tue coat Is very long uniting combination Of
the three fabrics opering velvet wastcoat The
close coatsleeyes Of velvet have wide cuffs trimmed
with silk pipngs and crossout pieces Of plaid
The cOOrs employed In this costume are dark myrtle
green, bronze-brown and old gold. Another simpler
plaid street dress has the yoke, bousewast and belt
This style will be extremely popular The pretest Of
the many imported models in plaid Is shown In the
forty-seoond tartan, combining green and blue The
peated basque much longer than those Of last
season and Il pped with double fold OF the two colors
IN silk The retrouss6 overskrt has similar pipings at
edges OF tie band and also at the yoke cuffs square
pockets and collar Down each side there are long
ooped bows Of aud blue ribbon, and the front
fastened With engraved gilt buttons kitpeaed bias
aounce finishes the under short skirt The mqgnh-
cent Julve dress reappears this season. model Is
made OF sapphire blue velvet IN long plain prncesse
! robe, mnde sleeveless showing the entire front OF
velvet The edges o. the PoSn9ss from the s95
with broad white chenille beaded passementarie ter
minang large tassel agrane The sleeves are blue
velvet Another fashion OF the Juiye robe Of ecru India
cashmere Is worn over dress OF garnet velvet Inc
edges OF the cashmere polonaise are bordered with
| sable fur the cuffs, long, square pocket aud under
train similarly trimmed IL i noticeable that the
back aud three sometimes four materials are COM
bned such satin. silk, velvet and cashmere the plain
fabric Tor the underkrs, and the figures or stripes or
paids for upper portions and trimming The Louis
XIV Regency coat Is worn Win the snort utss open
| ing over a very long walstcoat
The American plaids OF the Glenham make equal IN
soness and beauty any the imported fabrics. These
are shown in all Of fancy patterns as well as In
those OF different clans such the blue and green Forty
second the bright Mackenzie blue and green. erossned
with red and yellow the black and red Rob Roy the
darker Argyle and others as well known. These are
! afty.four inches wide and 81 75 yard The fancy
MAIDS are grave aud quiet Some OF the street dresses
are made OF very dark cashmere camels hair chew
lots or coatings, and English h0mespuns, and have
sleeyes cuffs and other accessories OF small plaid OF
which the overskirt must also be made The wholesale
and retail houses show beautiful specimens OF Winter
goods for the new designs Chief among the soft wooen
fabcs for Winter are India cashmeres less close IN
| fabric than the regular cashmere, and lTTegu-
called ThoOdas. Another. much heavier, and adapted
Tor wraps Is called Caravan CLOTH and one sun shagger
! tremev handsome The Imperial and ribbed ATInures
are 81 so yard. as inches wide. TIE Armure Malange
cloths come in rich dark shades heckad with tiny lntr
n' dssiens Of rich Persian colors. The Quadrill6
/ NeippA nas gold fine checks interviewer with suoh
shades as garnet, dark yellow and dusky owe Ihs rs
! So 80 yard, and 4S inches wide Fine eamels' halr
cioths are this year called Chuddah. and closely resem
lie the Chuddah shaws excepting that the suitngs nave
dne strpe interviewer In the smooth surface Ihs Is
1s Inches wide ~ 20 yard and Il seen In all such
| shades "a hazel-broWn, olive CASTOR new shade OF
gTay smOke-blue, dragOu-blue, green-blue, called
heron blue shades OF bronze and steel The Armure
Cloths rake ON the new Theirs red garneo and
| darker Pompeian red and all handsome clear colors
The Oriental fabrics especially brilliant one or
them IA the Palmyra broch6 Of finest wool with close
ribs and made radiant with little silk and satin flowers
OF every variety and color Another style OF this fabric
has the appearance OF chenille cord slightly tufted In
4 L. % -nrl