Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-05-18
WHERE TO EAT IN PARIS.
Valuable Information For This
Summers Visitors.


COMPANY HE MAY ELECT-woMEN WATERS.
From the London Daily N,ws:I
Restaurants and cafes in Paris differ as
much from one another as clubs. One house is
fast, another slow Here noble old foggies are
TO be1Ound: there you may meet politicians.
artists, literary hen, or financiers.. Historical
associations which may be wanting in one
house abound in one a few doors off.
The Cafe AnglaiS still holds its place as the
foremost restaurant, and it is a pre- -eminence
SO well established as to need no putting. Every
Sovereign or Prince who has come to Paris
within the last twenty five years has dined
there, and many have supped in very festive
less renowned for breakfasts. The places for
mayonnaises; Voisin's, at the corner of the
Rue du FaubOurg St HOnOre, where the wines
are catalOgued according to their ages, and
asors and ina prices to she eonsams ss
and DLrand's opposite the Madeline.
In these houses the Russian prince,
with diamond studs are to be seen. They are
not places for small folks who would not even
understand the nomenclature of the strange
dishes which the habitual customers asked for
Here a beefsteak is styled 'chateaubriand,"
and it is supposed TO be brOiled between two
other steaks, of which it imbibes the juice
though may disclose small trick of trade
and state that this waSteful method of cook
ing is only practised for well-known cOnnois
seurs, and that most people who ask for
chateaubriand get simply very tender steak,
lai ger and thicker than those at other houses
The Cafe d'Oreans, in the Palais Royal, is
another good breakfast house much patron
lied by French politicians. 1t is small, and
remains almost empty, except from II till l,
hours senator's deputies and councillors of
state, who have business In the government
buildings of the Louvre and Palais Royal
invaded by playgoerS who have tickets for the
Theater Francois, and by several of the actors
themselves, notably Got and the Coquelins,
ants OF the Palais Royal. Vefours is the only
one which holds a first class rank. 1t is a noted
house for public dinners, like those which
used to be given at the London Tavern, and
being opposite to the Palais Royal Theater,
it is convenient for persons who mean
to finish their evening by laughing at
the Jlbes Of those excellent buffoons, NM;
BrasSeur, L'Heri'ier, Hyacinthe, and Gil
Perez. All the other restaurants in the
Palais Royal are cheap establishments,
which provide breakfasts at IF. and din
ners al. IF: 75c. per head There are about a
with bourgeois families. The fare they pro-
vide Is not pad, and their rooms are sumptu-
0ns 5e6g NET in fact those fps Ppnfeey chambers
1887, were used as licensed gambling saloons.
Old men remember the days whom all these
saloons were thronged with rich strangers
patton of Paris by the allies in 1911 and 1915,
the money gambed away by foreign officers
in the PalaiS Royal was enough it is com
puted, to repay the French half of the war in
One must not leave the PalaiS Royal without
noticing its Cafe de la ROtonde, in the garden.
which is the rendezvous of all provincial ac,
tors who come to Paris to seek engagements
There they meet Partisan managers and man
ayers meet one another and discuss the
price" OF comics and jeunes-premierS. The
R0tonde has become sort of theatrical
bOurSe, in which the quotations of dramatic
talent are ,esta blished as the prices of script
are settled on change. In a small street just
on side the Palais Royal the Cafe DIES Aveu-
giles used to flourish until five years ago. 1t
had platform Oh which an orchestra Of blind
men dlScOursed string music all the evening:
but most of the performers having died OFT
frOm privaliOns experienced during the siege
the troupe has not been recruited. Facing
the other end of the Palais Royal that where
the Iheater Francois stands. is the Cafe Re-
ers. A foreigner ha wing no friends in Paris
may easily pick up acquaintance here if he
isMilling TO play chess with chance Corners
The Cafe Richie, the Maison Doree, Phil
the Vaudeville, Hills on the Boulevard des
Capucines, and NOel's in the Passage des
Princes, all stand about on par as excellent
houses where good entertainment can be got
at prices somewhat lower than at the Cafe
Anglals. The Cafe Richie has somewhat de-
c!ined from its aristOcratic reputation earned
IN the days when the late Marquis of HerLford
patrons; and the same may be said of the
Maison Doree, which has remained fashion
a;olt, however, as supper house. Philippe's
and plumeS itself on its hOmely dishes, like
tripeS Ia mode de CIen, petit sale dur ch )ur
&c; and 1t is, indeed about the only house
moments notice. NOels occupies the old
dining room OF the Hotel des Princes, which
used to be the best hotel in Europe forty wears
ago. When the hotel was demolished to make
way for the arcade which bears it's name, the
dining room was left standing, and very
large and handsome one it is. We may come
now to another class of hOuses-Brebant's
which Is the journalists house of call: the
Heider, where officers cOngregate; the Cafe
CARDINAL resort of academiCans, men of
ss SCI and mp publishers; and T9rtoni's This
its reputation for nearly seventy years as
an ice and chocolate house. 1t supplies break
lasts, put not dinners or suppers. Its clientele
at other cafes, but no other house affords re-
fIeShments OF such unimpeachable quality.
The Helder, where civilian face can scarce
be seen, is noted for its abslnthe, and likewise
Tor It's head waiter, Felix, who is walking
army list, In that he is said to know the name
of all the officers above majors rank i'm the
French FIR service This remarkable man is alta
OF BrebantS, is another phenomenon, for he is
a playwright and journalist, as well as an eat
ing housekeeper, and he has always shown a
great great al anxiety to monopolize the custom of
succeeded pretty we'll, for almost all his pa
irons earn their living by brain work, while
his connection with the stage brings dozens of
actresses daily over his threshold. All the
DahquetS which authors give after the hun
dredth performance of successful play are
held at Brebants. Going higher up the Boule.
yards, we come to the Cafe de Madrid, which
is much frequented by writer's in comic PAPERS.
also by WOuid-be journalists, who come here
to meet petty editors; opposite is the Cafe deS
Varieties, much hOnOred by actors and Bo-
napartlSts pamphleteers, election agents.
&c. The Cafe du GymnaSe is another
house Tor comedians, and BonnefOys,
higher up, is reSOrted to by civil engi,
neers, the house having once been the abode
OF a cup for this learned profession. AS
we walk along the BOulevardS we may observe
several restaurants over which the name of
Duval hgures, and these are very popular
houses, 100. There are about twenty of them
IN fails, and they all belong to the same
owner: originally opened for the accom-
iniouatlon OF wOrkingmen, their luxurious fit:
lungs anu general cleanliness not less than the
s0ununeSs OF their cooking, soon procured
them the patronage of higher class of ems
toners. Nowadays wOrkman's blouse is
never seen in them, and they have gradually
become the dining houses of the smaller
Dourge0lsie and of young bachelors, tourists
ana otherS who not care to spend much on
eatlng. The charges are cOnSpiculOusly
moderate, and even the recent addition of Is
per cent. does not bring them nearly to the
level OF prices in ordinary houses. In all the
DuVal restaurants, except one the attendance
Is performed by mattresses in gray gowns
white aprons, and capS-very spruce and
cOmely. 1t is found that these yOilng ladies
walt much better than men, and il is Snr