The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-05-05
THE FASHIONS.
Comparison of Present Styles with
Those of the Past.
> U M M l. r. Sill X s
The Novelties Most Favored by
the Beau Monde.


OF prophecy few lpes in different portions OF the
book may be quoted as instances OF the difference be-
the fashions OF tho present and those of the
past
'In 1880" says the author, 'by the example oil
Marguerite OF Navarro the women frzzed their hair
their temples brushing II back in from tho
forehead. They caps Of satin velvet, trimmed
With precious stones and gold" Hero is found ex-
Actly what most ravisning little caps OF to-day
composed of--velvet and lace, with beads and
GALLONS or gold; these certainly copied from
the coiIures OF the above mentioned period
and remind one OF the famous headdress worn by
Marie stuart with the legendary point lowered The
forehead All this freak OF fashion Tor 1875
quires to insure It's esab isnment Is the good Will aud
authority OF pretty woman And again .In 1895.
suring the reign oil Louis KILL, ladies superposed
dresses-one short, the other long and trained; tho
rorsage was d6colleie In square, the sleeves. large
and high, were very tight below the elbow" THIS
styie OF sleeves fashionable at the present
time. "They Lavish in the use Of lace for cuffs,
collars, wells and trimmings; also ribbons embroii
cries. beads, figured Raloons, feathers, flowers.
LOUNGES ana iurbelows scattered profusion on gar
meDis.n
TASTE or THE PRESENT.
ono must observe the agreement between those quo
tations and the taste OF the day. We have beads,
feathers superb embroideres, gaiioons gold gilt
Tor both morning ana evening wear, are overladen
with these ornaments. Ball dresses in tule or gauzc
absolutely by brliancy Of their beaded
splcndor. There is certainly advantage 10 be de-
rived from this luxury and extravaganGe in dress; It
Iorms another trade for women, TINT OF an cmbroid
sress. This work is pretty to do and muncrative.
one OF cur great 'maison dc nouveautes' has just
created model OF dress which destined to
taio great the material is fine wooiien
trimmings which accompany 1t embroidered
with beads OF the same shade. This bend not
the brlancy ofJel, OF cinir de lune, nor OF Pare
ciel; 1t accords admirably with costume OF
Ibis MATERIAL and Is likely TO DO most popular
with ladies' who desire to follow tho fashion in a
quiet ladyiike manner. For evening dress very
pretty bertha worn, which deserves to be o.
llced it but little known. THIS
graceful MODEL is IN white creme sse, Qraped in l.t
folds round tho corsags d6coete The bertha q rather
low Ia front ana at the back; however II rs long over
The shoulders where u falls IN a square. Nothing
becoming and grace III than all this soft
looking crepe round the shoulders
MODERN FASHIONS ADAPTlBIITY
There Is notnlng more rsmarkaoie about modern
fashion than It's hexbiiity, It's adaptation individual
stye ana taste. The elderly lady her plain
gown with leg OF mutton sleeves, II she likes, nat
real lace collar and couture, such MS she would have
twenty years ago aud be 'aii right" The lady
middle trail her elegant prncoss stately
matron fashion, aud The young gir wear smart dress
OF thin wool or pretty cotton aud QUO aud all be
tired beyond cavI or reproach All that Is essential
yoked waists and basques among the most bccon-
Ing designs o the Season. aud especially suited TO
the lighter washing materials, TO prints, ginghans
and the like, also TO the somewhat straight and
slender style OF American female lecture.
The most remarkable thing IN dress material Is the
manner 10 winch all the rare and costly fabrics are
initiated 10 cheaper lines oil goods The bourcttes,
checked, boucted and baske stu us ne
kinds, cosing from II yard upward, are found imi-
lated IN cotton aha cotton and wool goods,
more than ten, fifteen and twenty-five cents yard
The marvellous shades oil color Initiated. too
There are the pale grays, shot with orght gold color
rcd and biue; The pale ana dark grounds shades
oil ovegfcen, oronze, tileuii, navy blue and water
blue; even delicate tInts oil shell pink cnamois
bun, suot w.h hight dark lines positive color
NIL ia cotton goods and al tie prizes mentioned
IDEAS IN GRENADINES.
No class OF materials has been largely elo~
by Tue spread of boare.te designs tnan greas led
many Of which now seem scarcely to be gre, 4nes,
greatly mas their character become CHI any .adnes
or black Is not inirsquent. but very b. ed. White
SNOWY grenadines have siiksn and dsec> .autiul aud
some bright color, crimson or brixh' AXE dashes VI
Pile, woven u in a pattern or sinai blue. Tor exam.
paratively nne threads oil black cheek yslh coul.
Is Oack, with 1altened threads Grepadine lam nee
blue steel or tinsol-we of me,aI-gola silver,
elects, ana many of The re grounds with crapeliss
tmaii patterns IN brocaoed grenadines are IN
snaPea uauIss, flower sprays or iozcnge
stynsh iransiormS a IKE manner evincs many
10 those whIcp lions show changes siiniar
Aany ehaImp have taken place IN grsnadiues
: vcning Or gly tasteful examples. designed io'
faces OF unnncr wear, are found in both on sur
q coio' ate, and all the pale shades, combination
Variee or texture-ofentimss OF lne two--afoi
~ sap opportunity Tor choice PiainiNwoven srsh
es, however, are always IN demshd anu, Tx
ack silks. seem never to become uniashionaDe
therefore they are resented and are purchased "
ladies' who snrISk from DRESSER styles rialhi,
woven grenadines begin al nifty cents per yaru
Drsp msraDeau shows surface Of havane, o
some other supaued shade regular strires, IA sell
color or ia contrast, when, composed Of shor fringe
ike ends wing Hat, yet capable OF beng rough
rned by the touch. or, 10 use familiar ,xpresson
N ..rubDeu the wrong way" Whence the connection
between sucn iaDno aud the terrible parrot OF IN
Trencn revolution seems dificun to determine
SUMNER SILKS
fyl am
thougn hardy slyhsh, may DO regarded as standaf'
GOODS since Tor certain ciass oil persoos they seen
Almost q necessity. Inis yoar, IN narrow widths
shey commence AZ low AZ hfty cents per ysru some
tniBg handsome, iusrous and ,ois - me Anier,ca
srmure pougcc. II Of pure SIX, 10 sol a. well 81
soluble coiors, which blask forms the BACKGROUND
and the narrow zgzag stripe running ienlthw'se. ~
color. stiu another variety Of this poDgee show
inc boure;te peculiarly, and " striped ieI9.n
aud aarg brown mingled. "Gros faiiIo''
lac name OF a class OF silks, without srnen
fx or gum nnsh Iustrous, and oi all Tue preNallh
aaes worn an the present time. IL Is also very bcau
tul white, soit aud drapos ~ The most graceful
manner. Printed silks winch nave black grounds
With pin mead dots stripes small sprays OF leaves or
delicate little flower Ia white, are among the NUS
comfortable aud best wearing materials ior su'nm NM.
wear Lace striped bunting Is Introduced, anu buns
mig plainly woven as hitherto sells athiy conts yarn
a beautiful soft wool material Is pun, OF s,s. pa
gray with ptnhead blocks Of darker bun aud gray
Ieive is y name applied season both TO matcr
color The iabric rs soft and not uniko cam o.
nau. ana the color " rich brown.
ar those who viii pass The summer holiday at Ga,
watering places there exquisite damascus aud sum
tutr DrOcades ~ every conceivable siaae Iouisinfs
WIN pretty basket squarep SILK oourettss aud sol
Hrmufes pink, blue, chamos and ricb cream co Tor
wuh these summer veiyets aud gros grain silks Q
moderate wetrn NJ are intended ior combination.
there ~ aIso a fancy material called rsye helo,se
with a brown or navy blue ground, varied Dy perpeL
dtcssr clouded lines OF white. 1his fabric - snilH
10 popnn aud costs VI yard for "a width Of iwenty
four inches.
EnRissn barcees again introduced, and coDbin'
very beautifully with SIX, aud the same use - aiaa'
III pia,n heavy grapes IN hight coIors
TIE new linen Datistes are extremely dehcate am
In tho most attractive color and are made up hk
grenadines anu worn dressy occasions. - IN Ia
nndea are found IN hne organizes, which are irnnie
with the finest Forenoon inscrtings abd borderinls
For ladies VINO are NOT Obliged 10 take laundry ~
pcpses INTO consideration there are beautiful mutt
and corded mushns. which Will DO worn with hchi
Nrap. 10 match. some OF the prettest ana fresnos
Of these materials are only l21l cents yard aud IN
cafOrs are warranted. Tue 0d-fashionsd indigo biu
kugsn calIcoes, with bright orange ngnres are use
isr young ladies' sulls, made ~ wita white YES