The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-06-26
WEDNESDAY MORNING. JUNE 20.
IHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Wash dresses for the present season are made
in such simple and jaunty styles that they are
suitable alike for indoor and street dresses.
They are almost invariably short 10 the skirt,
and unless OF very expensive materials they
have none of the shirrina and futing that
make them too elaborate for ordinary laun-
dresses. The substantial torchon laces and the
thick machine embroidery in colors are the
trimmings for very handsome dresses that re-
quire to be frequently washed, while still plain
er dresses have pleatings of the material, bias
piped bands, or narrow Hamburg edgings.
There is fancy this season for several pref
ty fabrics that had long since fallen into dis
use. Among these are French lawns of solid
color at 30 or 40 cents yard. These are most
popular in pale sky blue, in delicate flesh pink,
in mastic gray, and in dark violet blue The
favorite style for making is that SO often de-
scribed in the Bazar-of pleated basque with
yoke and close sleeves that are quite short,
reaching only just below the elbows; the over.
skirt is either the sheath shape or else the
washer-womaD, with the edges turned up plain
ly all around, and the top edge of turned-up
part finished with standing pleated frill that
AhoJ AZ Avs luiu bo uuiouCQ Will udIIUW dlcu-
ciennes lace. The pleated yoke basque should
be made over smoothly fitted high-necked
lining of the dress material cut in basque shape
the sleeves are not lined. The skirt is short
usually, but may be demi-trained, and is
always trimmed with one or two kilt-pleatings
of the lawn. Such dresses are found at all the
furnishing houses, but are so easily made up
at home that they have become the favorte
model of the season. Ladies who are expert in
making the braid laces and insertions intro
duced in the Bazaar, and which have become
80 fashionable, sew rows of this insertion
together in y0ke-shaped pieces to cover the
entire yoke of these pretty dresses, and then
fashion cuffs of lace to match. To complete
such toilettes are broad belts of black velvet,
with wristlets of velvet and bows on the over
skirt. There are also parasols OF lawn, lace,
and velvet. A large cluster of natural roses
is worn at the waist, and the gloves are long
lace mittens.
Simple white dresses of old-fashioued CROSS
barred muslin are made in the way Just des-
these have single skirt laid in wide kilt pleats
and worn with a highland sash of plaid rib.
bon tied around below the hips. A plaid of
gray, scarlet and black is considered very styl-
ish. Wide scarfs of soft twilled silk are sold
for the same purpose for So or 81. White
dresses for afternoons at home and for young
girl graduates are made of finely dotted
Swiss muslin, trimmed with pleatings of the
same. simply hemmed, not edged with lace.
These have basque and elbow sleeves, while
the simply shaped and bouffant overskirt has
long Topped bows Of pale blue ribbon holding
it up on the sides. A bunch of dark red
Jacqueminot roses is worn at the waist. Linen
lawn dresses, either all white or else with JAP
anese zigzag figures or bars, are made in the
same way, and trimmed with Smyrna edging
and small pearl buttons in bullet shape, yet
with eyes through the middle.
The American Dercales at 12a cents q yard
come in neat colored figures, checks and stripes
on white ground, but are more effective with
gray or blue grounds dashed with white. These
are made up in suits at the furnishing houses,
and sold for Sc to 81. They have vests and
cut-away coats or else plain basques and are
bordered with bias blue percale of solid color,
and sometimes edged with white cotton lace in
large, bold figures. The domestic seersuckers
stripes of gray-blue alternating with
pink or with white or buff. These are
trimmed with pipings of color, pink, dark red
or buff and edged with torchon lace.
When polonaises are made with wash dresses
they are now quite short and turned up in front
In washer-woman style. This suggests good
plan for undermining the long wrinkled fronts
of polonaises of last season. The wrinkles in
the side seams are let out, the extra length of
fourth of yard is cut off, and after being
shaped to fit the edge from which it has just
been cut. it is trimmed at the top with pieat-
ing, ruffie, or lace, and is sewed on again as
an outside facing.
The fancy for vests enables economists to re-
model basques and sacques that have become
soiled in front or are too tight across the bust.
A separate vest of silk or .pique or damask,
striped or checked mohair, gray corduroy, or
any appropriate material, is made, and the
front of the partly worn basque is turned back
en- reuers to disclose the vest. The part turned
back as q revers begins at the throat, and
slopes gradually to the end. As it is defaced by
buttons and holes the revers is covered with
material OF the vest to conceal these.
For plain wooden dresses buntings and de
bege are most used The American buntipgs
at 40 cents are said to wear well, but they are
not nearly SO soft and pleasant to the touch as
latter are double width. De bege in ecru and
gray shades make pretty short suits, and is
most effective when entirely self-colored in
stead OF being combined with black or brown
silks. There are also low-priced tamise cloths
in stylish shades of beige and blue, that are
being made uplwith pretty trimmings of white
cotton guipure falling upon pleatings of the
material