The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-09-25
WEDNESDAY MORNING, SEPT. 25.

terms are side-pleated and edged with single
inch-wlde fold of dark satin. Black cash
mere aud cameps-hair suits have bands aud
bindings in the gsy-colored brocaded silk, rep
resent1ng Cashmere designs in which are much
old gold color and dull red. Brocaded RIBBONS
are then used for bows Dark plaid suits have
the English coat, as the only waist of the cos
tune; many of these bave bright brass put
tons in bullet shapes. The furnishing houses
make these E lglish coats with lOu g round over
skirts, aud sell these two pieces TO wear with
any lower skirt of silk that Is left over from
last year. The stores also make lower skirts OF
good black silk in new shapes with stylish
trimmings, and sell them for $25 to $35 Vests
are also sold separately. 1t is fast becoming
as easy for a lady to purchase her clothing
ready-made az it always has been for gentle
men.
O-mi. trained dresses of satin and of figured
velvet with repped silk are imported for car
-risge, visiting and dinner dresses. The styles
for these are similar to those worn two years
ago, with deep basques, long overskirts, more
bouffantly draped, and demi-trans. One of
the few successful toilettes entirely of satin
is made of black satin, trimmed with an
abundance of the crmped whaleboDe fringe
that has precisely the lustre of satin. This
has habit basque, with the front cut off at
the waist, and finished with wide belt A
peasant waist is outlined by piping on the
corsage. The Overskirt has q deep gathered
apron, with rows of fringe across the mid
die from top to bottom; side-pleating is on the
lower skirt. Another dinner dress has rich
ly brocaded silk outlining Juive overdress on
plain silk; this has deep square pockets on
the sides, and the back forms a square train.
trmmep with brocaded revers and many loops
OF doube-faced satin RIBBON. Embossed velvet
IN bronze shades is used for the basque of
another handsome dress; the velvet is cut
away IN front, and the lining is covered with
pam bronze SILK 10 vest shape, and this vest is
allowed to extend four or five inches across the
bottom OF the velvet basque. as if long vest
appeared from beneath. The vest is trimmed
a Ia naslatasfe, with three rows of bullet shaped
buttons covered with the embossed velvet and
joined by horizontal bands of piping. For
such an elaborate corsage the plain over skirt of
SILK has merely long deep apron laid in manv
folds across, and bOrdered with q wide retrousse
band OF the figured velvet; the back is bouffant-
'ly drapcd:- A novelty ia the sleeves is an over
sleeve Of velvet on the upper half to the elbow,
while the remainder OF the plain coat sleeve is
of silk Very little trimming is used on the
wrists OF coat sleeves Four or five horizontal
rows OF piping across the outside of the sleeve,
piping, make stylish and simple finish. A
narrow knife-pleated frill of silk falling on the
wrist Is sometimes the only trimming on
sleeves. When velvet is used 1t is in pointed
else only in bias band. The sleeves are quite
tight and have gathering at the elbows.
Hosiery for the fall is in hair line stripes
around the limb and is embroidered I'D each
side. FMS 10 not new, but promises to be the
popular design. More expensive stockings are
of solid dark color, with the instep and ankle
OF light shade, striped across with peneilled
lines of the dark color.
The newest black velvet bags are embroi-
dered in gold and in other colors in floral pat
terms. Wide velvet belts are wrought in the
same colors to be worn with them Plain vel
vet bags have gilt bands and monograms. The
old-time beaded reticules are again revived.
Black felt bonnets in close princesse shape,
trimmed with a band of cashmere feathers, or
else with an Alsacian bow of velvet aud satin
RIBBON, will be popularity worn during the fall
and winter,
Bullet-shaped buttons come in colored pearl.
10 BRASS in steel, and crocheted in colors and 10
black, for winter dresses. When two colors
appear in the dress goods, the round silk but
ton is OF the lighter color, nearly covered with
crocheted netting af the darker shade.
La;e pendants are attached to the fronts of
wide lace collars.
Five horizontal bars of lace in vest shape are
SOLD IN duchesse point and Honiton, for orna.
mentiDg dress waists.