New-York tribune., 1878-09-28

base of the mountains Yet il were hardly true to
say this of the Geiranger FOrd for there. though
the tallest peaks which hem in the harrow water
are but little over 1000 feet, they are so
ranged-now swelling up green, though steep, from
the waters edge now rising boldly on tops OF pre-
cptous cliffs which descend perpendiculary into
the ford walls of backened rock, over which cas-
cades of white foam pour-that one cannot conceive
how Nature could combine any measure OF
material to produce more grandeur OF effect.
curious feature of Norwegian life heightens the
effect of Nature on the Geiranger tJ0rd. Far mp on
the mountain sides one sees little patches OF cleared
land green with pasture, very small ana very sIeep
Your glass enables you to discern miniature tarm
buildings. For grass for the cattle Is so precious
here that on these almost inaccessible places, l,oOO
or 200 feet above the ford. peasants live WIN
their herds The slope Of these pastures Is otteh 80
should fall of, and they tether the little cdren as
well, that they may not meet their death IN thelr
play. To discover these human habitatons made
microscopic by the distance. gives measure which
furnishes juster estimate OF the heights on when
they stand and as the peaks rise above these pas
tnre spots 900 feet at least the eye guages tner
height with an appreciation made accurate by the
contrast of mans achievement with Natures hahol-
work.
At the end of the Geiranger FjOrd, just over
the little hamlet of Merck, descends the
StOr Eos. a grand cascade which comes pour
ing down the mountain side for two miles OF
more, bending and cuTvng in its course contlnu-
GUS series of leapng, foaming waterfalls. To ap-
preciate fos like this one must ascend along It's
course. for Nature is on so grand scale about it as
to dwarf its size unless it be close by. When
one does this. and mounts, as l did by the
side of the Vermedal Eos at 0rmen in the Roms-
dal for "A mile and half at least, and hnds con-
tinuOus of cascades from twenty 10 sew
enty feet high along the whole route, ne gains
more adequate sense OF the grandeur and beauty OF
the falling river For many OF these larger
falls are really rivers in bulk. The grand
est of them all which l saw was Ihe 0Reg- KEY
the Sorr FiOrd, southern branch OF the Nardanger
II is a torrent, or river, which springs from lake
on the mountain top, and leaps from 800 to 1000
feet down into a rocky basin at the end OF the
Ringdalsvand. 1t is framed in by an amphltheatre
of magnificent rocky cliffs, which stand to the
mountain like buttTesses to a cathedral tower IL
has a largo volume of water, and the mist bols up
in vast clouds of spray about its final plunge, so
that il did recall something of the sensation expert
enced at the Cave of the Winds at Niagara as stood
dripping with the foam as near as could venture
OH the rocks. Nothing, of course, in all Nature can
approach or even suggest the unequaled majesty
of Niagara in its volume of mighty waters. But
the Skeggerdal Eos did remind one OF little section
of It, when one stood envelOped IN its spray. Its
height of course is immensely greater But to COM
tall, slender PALM with its quiyerng cOronaI
of feathery leaves with forest OF outrageous OAKS
II has been rather the fashion, thlnk' 10 depre-
ciate the cascades of Norway, because they are not
Niagara. But they have beauties OF their own as
distinct and charming as that which dlstn-
gushes a rhododendron from an elm. One pecuh-
arlty of the Norwegian waterfalls have never seen
elsewhere Ii is the play OF distinct rosy hue
over the white foam of the fall. This Is unlyer-
SIotta Eos in the Romsdal, where the water IS
crowded together between narrow walls OF rock,
and churned into finest foam by the violence OF the
descent. lt seems to come and go, to heghten anu
deepen like blush. as though the stream had grown
ruddy with the glow Of its eXhilaratlng exercise.
The green water. the white foam, the PINK hue,
combine TO delight an eye which Is sensitive TO the
play of color
But I might write on and on about the beauties
of Norway, until both force, patience-and
your type-wcre exhausted. One cannot cOndense
the delight and charm of three weeks amid the
fiords INTO two columns of newspaper. Let me
saw therefore in conclusion, that one finds some
thing Of human interest in Norway as we'll as as
thetic qualification, The people are primitive and
simple in their ways quiet and undemOnstrativo in
their manners but not even the children tau IN the
expression of a grave pOlteness At any little
favor, the least ones take your hand and hit 1t to
their l,ps and say sbyly, " TAX thanks. l met
but two attempts at imposition, and but one OF rude
ness in all the course of my wanderlngs; ana only
There are some inconvenience. One tires at times
of the carlOle for the position is somewhat con-
strained and mOnOtOn0us. As a vehicle II re-
minded me of a teaspoon on wheels. You slt IN the
bowl and tight tit II is your legs rest on the thn
line of the handle and the end of IL - turned mp as
n stopper 10 your leet. prefer the stolkar, which
is simply twO-whcel cart with seat for two form
this one AN change ones position little. The horses
too are steady, but unemOtiye. The evolution OF
forces seems to fail in their case, for the energy OF
clicking and llappIng of whip or rens does not pass
ON into tie Stccd. They are sure they know best,
and really seem, as an Irish travelling companion
said TO have a spirit level IN their siomachS so I'M
mediatey and accurately do they discover the least
ascent In the road But these are slight annoy
ances IL tired at supper time and tale cross, you
ask for something 10 eat yonr stat0n-master re-
stores your good humor. as in his quaint stumbling
English he says, 4" have made sheep die for you,
and If his chops are tough and his fish hshy, there
is hearty good will and welcome in the way II Is
offered Aud think the decision of almost every
one after a few weeks of Norway travel might be
expressed IN the words of the English young lady
about a performance of Wagners music, when she
saId, d" An. that is far TOO more really than most
awfully jolly" Z. T. TIFFANY
- TrOms6e AugHd 2l, 1878.