The Portland daily press., 1878-11-27
[HarpeI's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.

The black dresses made up for the house and
for receptions are usually combinations of two
or three materials made into a baque and
full, flowing trained skirt. The striped black
silks with half-inch or else inch wide stripes of
dresses, and are combined with plain gros
grain trimmed with plain satin and with
fringe. The basque will be of the striped satin
with plain satin vest and revers and silk
sleeves. The skirt will have the three front
bresdths Of striped satin, and the three or four
straight b:eadths of the bicks Of plain gros
grain. There is no overskirs nor even apron.
Very elegant costumes for afternoon recep-
tions, visiting, and church are combinations of
velvet, mOire and satin, Black Is most used
for these rich dresses, but there are many SINH
lar combinations in dark rich colors. For
these the basque and trimmed skirt or the
Traron polonaise are the popular styles. In
some instances the short skirt, if velvet, is en-
tirely untrimmed; in others it has narrow
pleated founce of satin. The moire used is
that known as French MORE, to distinguish it
from moire antique, with its large watered
figure; the new moires are in small waves and
sometimes in stripes; thus a stripe of satin an
inch wide alternates with watered stripe of
the same width This moire forms square
tabier, or a curtain drapery, or revers, or
panels, scarcely any two costumes being made
precisely alike. In every case, however, the
front and sides must be very fiat. They may
be covered with square-cornered Roman
apron of the moire simply fringed at the foot,
and so straight and long that it conceals the
lower skirt, and sometimes takes its
-alo fur<, u.1 L.
cred to the belt at the top, sewed together part
OF the way down the middle, and then drawn
back curtain fashion to show velvet skirt be-
meath. There is also q fancy for putting fans
of pleated satin tabout as deep as the fan car
ried in the handy at intervals around the foot
instead of dounce. 1t is co oasidered especially
stylish to have the rich fabric Of the overskrt
reach from the belt to the foot, where it is
fringed, and these faLs are then inserted either
in the seams or perhaps In the middle of the
breadths as well. The back Is then draped In
many loose pleats, or else it has a pouf and
founces like those already described The
waists are then basques or coats that seem to
be two garments, as the outer fabric is cut
shorter than that used for the vest, which ex-
tends far below it on the sides, and sometimes
behind.
Among other stylish fancies is that of turn
ing back the front of the basque in revers and
this affords good suggestion for altering silk
basques that have become Shiny or other
wise defaced in front. The fronts are turned
back just below the waist line iu triangular re-
vers, and covered with figured velvet, satin, or
Whatever fabric may be used for trimming.
Still another fancy is that of trimming the
vests OF rich toilettss with lace across the bot
tom. The white Breton lace is slightly gathered
or else laid in knife pleats on the edge of velvet,
silk, MORE, or satin vest of any or color of black
There are also pockets set on the fronts of long
silk vests, and in some caseslLouis XIV. jsbots
Of white Breton lace trim them their entire
length
Short suits of fine wooden goods richly trim
med are the accepted street costume for the
winter. Now that fashions are settled defnite-
1y, India cashmeres and cloths of solid color
are found to be most popular. They are COM
bined with embossed velvet moire satin and
striped goods that are partly velvet and partly
satin: sometimes third fabric is added for
facings. Silk of inexpensive quality is used
for the foundation skirt, to prevent the cos
tune being too heavy, but this silk is seldom
seen, as the fl0nnces are usually of WOOL
There are, however, stylish plans of making
wool costumes in which silk plays q conspicu-
nuS mart