The true northerner., 1878-08-09

PARIS, July 2Srd 1873.
Every great metropolis has, and has had q
centre--a heart, the focus OF life, OF character
and movement. In Rome, the Forum with its
classic memories; IN London, Regent street ; in
New York, Broadway; and in Paris--modern
Paris-the Beulevards. Other points have been
more central aud more fashionable in the Pans,
OF the past, for the Boulevards Interiors we're
once Exteriors, and their history and chrome
logy is known. But the Palais Royal, the Louvre
and other centres of attraction have been
eclpsed by these Boulevards, which represent
the type the essence of Paris life in all Its ori-
ginslity and piquancy. Formed in the seven
teenth century, the Boulevards were at first the
bulworks or ramparts OF Paris when the night
ingales frequented the groves replaced by the
present Boulevards Haussmonn aud Malesher-
bes, and lovers stroed in the Aowery fields
about the Chausee d'Antin. They have many
interesting historical associations. Mongalfer,
the inventor OF balloons, lived IN the Boule-
ward ST. Denis the assassin Fieschi pointed
his internal machine against Louis Philippe
from No. so Boulevard du Temple. and the
noted beauty, Ninon de L'Enclos. lived on the
same Boulevard, No. %; while the well known
Boulevard des Itahens, the zenith Of Partisan
animation in 1915, was inhabited by the cee-
brated comedian Regnard the rival of Maliare.
What transformation in the present day: the
shop windows with the blaze Of Patis. the
wealth Of the Indies and Bonanzas, with the
rarest combinations OF modern ingenuity and
mensions of city, with avenues Of light and
passages OF pleasure. All this must be seen to
be understood or rather felt, for the general
impression OF the far-famed Bouevards s a
much more powerful appeal to the passions.
emotions, and, perhaps, to the aesthetic sense,
than TO the thought or reason. more clearly
typifed in ourmore sober cities. the markets and
marts OF this age Of progress.
A heterogeneous crowd, winch the delights
Of the French Capital have attracted from all
parts Of the world gaze with rapture upon the
scene of wonders. The dazzling display Of dia-
monds and other costly jewels exhibited in the
windows which are Illuminated with gas by
means of rehectors throwing soft clear light
and showing off these treasures to the best ad-
vantage. The windows are in most cases re-
arranged expressly with a view to evening ef-
feet. Nowhere else can be seen such an attrac-
tive display Of taras Of diamonds aud precious
stones, ranging in price from five TO two hun
dred thousand francs Watches OF every variety
of style, and every description of jewellery ght-
ter in the soft mellow light. Perfumery shops,
also arranged with the most consummate skill
lmpreguating the air with delicious odors, add
to the fairy-lik impressions Of the scene.
Clothing establishments marbles and pictures.
bronzes, fruit and pastry shops, in fact every
thing can be found here in the greatest profu-
sion. Every variety of form and device is re-
sorted to arranging gaslights and mirrors so as
to produce the greatest effect. The names OF
many of the principal restaurants aud cafes
are emblazoned over the doors in letters of
fire. the effect Of which is extremely beautiful
while at the same time the cost must be enor-
nous but the shopkeepers seem to pay no re-
gard to the item OF expenditure in their endeav-
ors to eclipse each other in brilliancy OF dis
play. This illumination continues until about
midnight.
point of unusual attraction is the Grand
"a 70 bo 81
ner of Rue Scribe, the largest and most mag
nifcent cafe in Paris, and probably in the
world. The general effect from the opposite
side is dazzling; the rooms are blaze of light.
1t is said that 1000 persons congregate here at
night to drink coffee, cognac, absinthe, and
peruse the leading journals. The decoration
and furniture of this cafe has cost nearly
million Of francs It's main attraction is per-
haps the exquisite painting Of the ceiling, exc
cuted by artists of no less merits than Bou-
langer and Dulaney. A group of bacchantes
and fauns on the ceiling OF drawing room,
which measures thirteen metres in circum-
ference is work OF artistic merit which might
be envled by any art collector. Upon the side
walk, IN front of the cafe, which are about
thirty feet wide, and covered with asphaltum.
like the streets, are arranged small tables and
neat fancy chairs made of iron, these are occu-
pied, upon pleasant evenings, by persons OF
both sexes, regalng themselves with ices, etc.
The effect Of this large crowd, both within and
without the cafe, the great profuslon Of gas
lights, the members of which seem doubled
and quadrupled by reflection from the i'm
mepse mirrors on the walls, combine to pro-
duce scene OF unusual brllIancy aud gayety.
- g cE~--