The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1878-11-21
OUR EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENCE
ErrER SUMBER ELEVEN.
HEIDELBERG.

Ona pleasant summer afternoon, tn
train on which we were was winding
along the fertile valley Of the Rhine
when. with sudden turn, il swept ava,
from the river toward the dark mount
aims. some ten miles distant. Hal
an hour later we were in the beautiful
and romantically situated city of Heidel
berg, gazing in almost Open-moutbeC
amazement at the grand, tree-eOvereC
mountain which seemed to hang owe
our heads, and wondering how a city
could ever possibly he squeezed in be
tween il and the Neckar which washes
I its base. BY six o'clock we had gone
| through with the eight or ten forma
| courses at the table dc hOte dinner, anC
were on our way up the long street
which led to the castle, more than three
hundred feet above the city. We had
time only for a hurried glance at the
ruins, which are the grandest and most
extensive in Germany, before the de
clining sun threw around US the glOries
Of a beautiful sunset. Late in the even
| ing, as we sat in our room talking with
friend, the full moon came up from
behind the great mountain and shone
upon the city and the distant ruined
castle with richness Of silver light
which throws peculiar charm about
such scene as this.
The nextmorning, under the guidance
ola friend, student in the university
we set out for an all days tramp oveI
the mountains and through the ruined
castle. Several hours walking along
well-made paths, winding constantly
upward through the woods Of the mount
ain side, brought us to the summit,
more than ! 1,20Ofeet above the city. On
the way up we had many beautiful ont
looks from resting places along the path,
giving us constantly varying and widen
ing views Of the city, the castle, and the
surrounding country. A part Of the
time We went up the remains Of a long
flight Of stairs, called Heavens Ladder,
which formerly extended from the castle
straight up the side of the mountain 10
its very top. But no language can begin
to DO justice to the wonderful panorama
which lay before US after We had ascend
ell the tower on the Konigsstuhl, OF
kings seat. Below, and far away be.
yond the city, is the fertile plain with
the Rhine aud Neckar winding through
il. Beyond the Rhine are the Hart7
Mountains, with their wealth OF legends
and in sight are also the Odenwald, the
/ Suabian and Taunus Mountains, and on
| the other side Of the tower, the broad
rolling, unbroken green OF the hills and
and mountains of the Black Forest. Or
clear day, with a good glass, the spire,
Of the cathedral at Strassburg can bt
! seen by those who have good imagin.
ations. Decending by a circuitous path
we 20 through acres OF huckleberry
bushes, and these, indeed, give a namt
to it, for Heidelberg, in English, means
nothing more than hucklekerry hill ol
mountain.
Whats in name ," Everything
How all that is beautiful aud romanti,
seems TO be suggested by the "old castl,
OF Heidelberg" but when we begin I,
talk about the ''old stone house OF
huckleberry hill," the ideal has all ooze,
out of US, and we cannot think Of any
thing poetical. In like manner, whel
we think Of moonlight walks "under tn
lindens," we picture to ourselves brown
haired, blue-eyed German lovers, will
their aims around each other in
romantic and natural manner-b bu
when we talk about moonlight unde
the bass wood" which means the sam
thing, it is impossible TO bring up any
thing poetical, or to think of anythin
short Of Samantha Simpkins and Heze
kiah RawbOnes struggling awkwardl
along on opposite sides of the road, an
venturing an occasional remark abou
huskin's, quiltings, or the prospect of tn
"apple-sass" crop.
On the way down, we have a fine vie'
of the valley OF the Neckar, and up
pretty little stream on the opposite sid
Of the river. We again see the city fror
a height above the castle, and from
are enabled to get something OF an ide
OF the size Of the castle and the garden
around it. Decending, we enter the ca:
tie grounds at the Great Terrace, whic
forms one side of the gardens, and fror
which there is very fine view of Tn
castle, the city, and the country beyon
as far as the Hartz Mountains. A pai
Of this terrace is a very high wall bull
up from the gardens below, and filed /
against the side of the mountain. II,
tween this and the crag on which tn
castle stsnds there was formerly a larp
Hover garden, which must have Or,
sented beautiful appearance from III
the part Of the castle facing it, or fror
the terrace.
a walk OF quarter of a mile alon
the terrace brings US to the main er
trance Of the castle, beyond which, an
nearer 10 the town, is the Elizabetha
gate, large triumphal arch, built b
one OF the lords of the castle in honor q
his English wife, Elizabeth. The mai
entrance was formerly over the moat b
draw-bridge and through a waite
tower with a narrow passage closed b
massive portcullis, whose rusty Iro
points can still be seen above our head
as we enter. The entrance opens into
great open square, around which th
buildings are mostly arranged. Ther