The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-02-27
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

fresh lmportatons Of spring millinery arrive
daily and confirm the ruuored revival of Ha.
vana and mastic gray shades. There is great
variety in these sober tnts. and the names
most prominent on the list of colors are mode.
urao' oeige, ctar dc tune, Havana, tan, wood,
mastle' ana hnally ashes'of-roses, which Is re-
ViVed IN precisely the pinkish drab hue former
ly known under this name. To contrast with
these are the moss and olive green, fresh rose.
pale sky blue, poppy red, and various yellow
shades, from the lightest cream tints to dark
mandarin.
One OF the special novelties to relieve quiet
colors ia gold and silver ribbon This is an
inch or more in width. is thinner and more
flexible than the metal braids, and used as
bows, or as loops forming parts of bows that
are partly OF satin ribbon, or else to tie bou-
quets of flowers. Satin is above everything
the material for trimming, both in ribbons and
cut bias from the piece. There are still gros
grain sides to satin ribbons, but the greater
number are "two-tone" satin ribbons being
double-fsced, satin on both sides, vet each Of
different color. Those two inches wide are
mostly largely imported, but leading French
milliners use many ribbons that are only an
inch wide. Watered silk ribbons ara next in
Importance, but these have been out of fashion
oply few seasons, and 1t is rather soon to re-
viye them successfully; the best are only
watered on one side, and are satin on the other
Friuged ribbons are shown as novelties These
have an inch-wide stripe down the middle of
satin, silk or watered surface, with a fringe of
the same width on each side. Onabre ribbons
have shaded satin stripe in the middle. Jar
diniere ribbons have the fringe of many colors,
while the stripe in the middle is of solid color
For lighter trimmings are the new satin
gau1es, watered gauze, moss gauze, chenille
gauze and gauze bOursttes. The satin gauges
have lace-like stripes alternating with thin sat-
in lines, and are very handsome for soft crowns
or for punches OF irregular folds around the
crown OF soft straw or chip bonnets In other
gauzes these stripes are watered; in some they
have velvet mossy pile; still others have stripes
OF chenille loops between stripes of gsuze.
Gauze bourettes with knotted threads have
already been described. These are most usually
in one color, but some show jardiniere combs
nations of several colors The dainty "cob-
web gauZes are as thin as If woven by spiders,
and there is new friDged gauze with rows Of
Tom Thumb fringe woven across ID so tightly
that the threads cannot be pulled out. Very
little gros grain is shown, but this is q standard
article that the best milliners are not willing to
give up Od-fashioned pin-dotted silks with
tiny raised spots are revived, and there are
trimming silks with the inevitable rough
threads like those of bourette Soft satin bro
cades are shown in small figures of two colors,
or else in two tones of one color, and are as
flexible in quality as the twilled silks so long
used for trimming. There are also basket
woven silks Of the same pliabe quality.
The beaded ornaments Are most varied. Pearl
galloons are made up of four or five rows ct
beads for binding the brim or resting iatly on
the coronet, and there are pearl fringes to
match, pearl comb-shaped ornaments for bow
on the crowd, and balls of pearl on rods for
brooches. Gray, Jet, and rainbow beads are
shown in the same way. Four silvered balls
on gold stems make stylish ornaments also.
Ostrich tips in punches ar, more used than the
single long plumes. New pompons Of split
ostrich feathers are very light and dressy.
A most e natural eject is given to the pale
these leaves of oil-silk instead of muslin, and
not putting wire down the middle. A great
deal of green rubber "tubing," as 1t is techni-
cally called, is used to tie in clusters and hang
like grasses, or to string pearl beads upon in
most incongruous fashion as fringe The
flowers represent every blossom known to the
garden, the woods, or the fields, and with these
are pstural grasses, seed pods, grain, and other
odd clusters of skeleton buds, being merely the
green calyxes of rosebuds stripped from their
colored petals. Worm-eaten faded green leaves
are among the most natural things shown.
The yellow Tuscan braids are chosen by the
most expensive Partisan milliners to trim as
models OF spring stJ les; these will rival the
incest French chips A novelty is gray chip
alternating with silver braid on the whole bon
net. Other bonnets have points Of cardinal or
of blue velvet in the fancy straw brim, while
6till OtuCio udf0 LILO 5LdW CLOWu ulO5b Q4AlQLlJ
folded over on top and on the sides, and orns-
mented there with rows Of buttons Of black
velvet, or gilt, or steel. Black and white chips
are much mixed together. Some Normandy
many bonnets, but there is little doubt that COR
onet fronts will be most popular for spring and
summer.
For early spring use there are fine black chip
bonnets, with narrow tlsck satin ribbon form
ing an Alsacian bow on top, and frill of black
Spanish lace below the crown. A bow of gold
(metal) ribbon holds bunch of rose-buds and
leaves low down on the left side Of the crown.
The brm is bound with gold braid, and the face
trimming is black lace ruche. This is one of
the new Spanish designs, but for more dressy
Spanish bonnets the yellow-tinted Tuscans are
chosen, and the brim and part of the crown
covered with crushed pink and eream-colored
roses, over which veil Of yellow tule is tied,
aud then made to serve as strings. Still other
Tuscan straws have the large Tuvee rosetto Of
yellow watered ribbon on the top, bouquet Of
dark damask roses, with worm-eaten leaves,
and mignonette, while the rolled coronet Is
covered with myrtle green velvet. This is .
very elegant design, yet very simple and easily
copied. The reader must remember that the
large rosette is of loose, irregular loops-per-
haps twenty in number-0f inch-wide ribbon,
and must not be stiff and prim-looking. Some
crowns OF fancy straw bonnets are slightly 10
Normandy shape Other bonnets have their
square crowns trimmed with the band of braid
and stiff set bow of braid worn last summer.
Ostrich tips busted with gold are seen on the
new French bonnets. The daisies or Margue-
rites, the flower of the Qaeen of Italy, arc
formed into chains aud put around the brim.
Brooches made up Of rows Of gilt beads, each as
large as pea, are on other hats. Olive green
velvet or gauze is much used with pale dam
asks and with pink rose-buds. The comeina-
tions of color are very original. Myrtle green,
ivory white, crimson, and yellow form q favor
ite nleldnge
Domestic wooden goods now so closely copy
oh, Gal hrtn 11ns.
buy them as imported goods There are spring
bourettes of domestic manufacture in all the
new combinations of color, of nice soft quality,
sold for IS or 80 cents yard For children
there are basket-woven cloths at the same
price in pale blue, buff mastic gray, brown and
cardinal.
French beiges of remarkably fine quality and
light for summer wear, are now shown in doub-
lie widths, and cost as much as cameps-hair
Ivory white aud pale blue camel s-hair costs
from Sl.75 to So. so yard.
The most popular design for finishing the
edges OF woolen dress skirts Is . single kilt
pleated founce with the pleats 80 broad that
when worn with an overskirt the effect of a
kilt skirt is produced. The edges of this kilt
tiounce are simply hemmed, and the pleats
are stitched on by q machine, In one row of
stitching or else several. The rows of stitch
ing used on the hens Of oyer-skirts or Of polo
naises are most stylish when they are parallel
and In one cluster, not separ sted in two sets Of
rows. Ii the wool material Is sleazy and has
not sufficient body to keep the stitching from
drawing, it should be faced with silesia before
being stitched.
Civil Service Reform.
The true character of the sham civil service
reformer was never shown up in q clearer light