The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-04-18
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING WRAPS.


The greatest novelties in sucb garments ara
the black satin mantles trimmed with lace aud
beaded ornaments; for midsummer there are
also new mantles made of single strands of
sewing silk tied in square meshes, with let
bead caught in each mesh. The most popular
wraps, however, are of black India cameps
hair with long fleece, or of richly repped black
SILK, or else Sicilienne or, better still, the new
repped silk fabric called baDgollne, which Is
entirely without dressing, yet soft aud light
In the costume illustrated the mantle is made
OF the dress materia-olive silk--and this il
customary even in the plailest wool costumes.
The custom is to trim the seam down the mid
ole OF the pack, to bofder the edge and to put
good zeal Oh tr1m ming around tae neck; the
ironts are buttoned as far down as the waist:
TWO long ends of ribbon are placed at the
throat, tobe tied in long looped bow with
ENDS, aud, II liked, similar bow is at the
waist. Black cashmere mantles for plain use
are nlade IN this way, and also for ladies in
modrning. Beige-colored cameps.hai is pre-
.erred to gray for dressy wraps. Straight gal
ioon, with or without beads is preferred to vine
passamenterie. The whalebone and grass
fringes are fluffy, and look richer and fuller on
these wraps than the smooth sewing silk fringe.
Knife-pleating of silk is also used for woolen
mantles. The rainbow and beige colored beads
are considered more stylish than black let, but
they are very expensive, and will probably
be transient fashions. The favorite trimming,
however, is French lace in thread patterns,
laid in knife-plestngs, and put on In two, or
three, or even four tapping rows. The quality
sold at 30 cents yard and nearly three inches
wide is most used. Spanish blonde lace is put
on In the same way, or else it is merely gathered.
Loops and ends of inch-wde ribbon, either
satin or gros grain, are set amid tue lace pleats
10 use as little lace as possible, vet make
pretty mming, three or four kuife pleats are
lad, then PLAN space is left the width of the
cluster OF pleats; In this plain space Is placed
an upright loop of the RIBBON with two ends.
each cut 10 forks like trident; two-eighths of
yard of ribbon are needed for each looped
piece. Two rows Of pleated lace stand upward
around the neck, and two or three are turned
downward; wide passamenterie loops of
ribbon separate the rows that are turned in
different directions
DRESSES.
There are entirely distinct styles for differ.
ent toIlettes, and the modistes say there isa
marked preference for palmer dresses than
have lately been worn, with a tendeucy toward
fuller skirts For instance, rich dresses for the
house, for dinners, for carriage aud receptions
have almost invariably bisque-waists, with a
SHIFT tnat mas no overskirr, very fiat In front
and on the sides, and has flowing train of
three or perhaps four breadths: this train is
very simply bordered with one wide pleated
hounoe or with three narrower pleatpgs, while
the trout breadth is trimmed straight down the
mlodle with Hat galloon, beaded gImD, fiat
lace, or a lace jabot, and the side cores lap
sightly 90 the front, as if it were petticoat
inclosed by them, or else these sides have
panels OF different colored SILK or OF trim
m1ngs in horizontal rows. Tue basque is of
the plainest design possible, aud Is quIta short
for these dresses, though the longer cuirass is
preferred for plain Costumes. The neck is
either cut out square, or else 1t is high, and q
whi q silk square is laid on, draped with white
lisse, aod edged with beaded galloon, either
pearl, rainbow or jet, The front of the basque
Is sharply pointed, the sides shorten almost to
he waist liae, and the back ends in slight
loops of the silk doubled aud piped with satin.
Worth is not willing to ,andou the long
seams from the shoulders that produce a slen-
der appearance; be uses them quite as fre-
quently as he does the short side bodies begin.
ming in the armhole The coat or the elbow
sleeves have oftener cuffs of lace than flowing
frills, and are most usually trimmed down the
top or the arms with the material used in the
square neck. The edge of the basque is ha-
lshed with one, two, or three sstin plpings, aud
the very high English collar, with it's broadly
turned over points, is lined with satin, aud has
also two or three pipiOgs The trimming of
the basque is confined to the square trout, or
else it is fchu Of lisse, Of lace, or Of brocaded