The new North-west. [volume] (Deer Lodge, Mont.) 1869-1897, 1878-06-07
A RUSSIAN METROPOLIS.
AN AMERICANS IMPRESSION OF MOSCOW.

A
Moscow is the strangest mixture O!
beauty and squalor that can be seen. Here
is church painted bright green all over,
with q picture Of some saints above the
door. Next to it is little, dark shop,
here incenses are sold. A little further on
is narrow, sombre passage, running
through to the next street, with shops
opening to it where all sorts Of wares are
to be seen. The owner stands at the door
and recommend his goods to the passer-
by. At the end Of the street is the Krem-
lin, that wonderful remnant of barbaric
splendor. II you stand and look ut it, as /
did, under dull March sky, the sharp
little snow-dakes pelting you fiercsly in
the taco, with melting snow under foot,
and general nastiness and sloppiness all
about you, you will be moved to sort OF
wender that these high white walls, these
queer colored dones and roofs, and all
this strange architecture could ever be ad-
mired by any but savage race. But 60
to the same point of view on clear day
after snow-storm, when the ground is
white and clean, when the sun scintillates
on the delicate tracery of the crosses
which surmount the domes, when the
domes themselves take deeper and purer
shades of blue and green and gold and
gray, then you will appreciate better the
real beauty which underlies all this bar
barlc splendor.
Entering the holy gate, which Is nothing
remarkable to lock at, every one, except
the Gear, must uncover his head. From
the walls of the Kremlin there is msgnif-
icent view Of the city. Raised so high
above it, the squalor and dirt do not stare
one in the face, and the hundreds of nina
rets and spires, and the crosses all brightly
colored land the green roofs of the houses,
with the low range of the Sparrow Hills on
one side, across which the French army
marched, and from which Napoleon got
his first view of Moscow, form very
beautiful picture. The first thing to visit
inside the Kremlin is the Church
where the Emperor was crowned. From
the first Romanof down TO the present
Alexander Ii. the coronation ceremony has
taken place in this same church, in the
same platform in the center Of the build
ing. The cathedral is more than rich.
1t is literally glittering with gold and sill
yer and jewels. There is not one inch in
the floor or ceiling which is unadorned.
The screen at the back of the altar is of
solid gold. The icones have neckla-
oes and tiaras of diamonds, emeralds aud
pearls. The chandeliers are of silver. The
walls are covered with paintings and mo-
saic works of Siberia marble. No words
can express the riches of the church. 1t is
said that all the wealth of tho Russians
could not buy the contents of this one little
church. 49,.
But for the quaiatness, barbarity and
beauty combined, the church of st. Basil
low 6afiaibg with III sftsadf 8Ssfida Of the
shaped domes. each painted different
color Under every dome is chapel dedi-
Gated to sone saint. Dark, narrow passa-
ges lead from one chapel to another. Here
Is displayed the same richness of orna-
mentation as in the cathedral-gold, silver
and jewels everywhere. There is legend
attached to the church which was repeat
ed to me no less than fi2s .llnes by as many
people. It was built by an italian archi-
tect in the reign Of Ivan, the Terrible.
When it was completed the Czar called the
before him and inquired if it was
possible to build anything more beautiful.
The italian replied that it was, whereupon
the Gear ordered his eyes to be put out.
This story, like many others which are
told Ct John, the Terrible, lacks proof.
Letter to tAs Boston Adusrtissr.