St. Landry democrat., 1878-01-26
The ART of Dress.
from the Saturday Review.

faith tney pfOtesS III cIencn fasnlOns.
They will be enabled to prove by un-
fashionable in Paris cannot be ri.licu-
lous anywhere. Nj. Blancs first SEN
tence is we'll calculated to impress his
readers:
Mature" he says, "vlewed in the
grand spcctacles, permanent OF ephem-
eral, which she offers to our eyes is not
beautiful, but she is sublime. She is
not beautiful because she lacks the
three conditions of beauty--order, pro-
portion, and unity" -
He goes on to explain that it is only
in her lesser works that nature Ebegins
to be beautiful, because in these onty
she exhibits order, takes pleasure IN
symmetry, offers to us perceptiblg uni
ties and sensible harmonies. Mgbianc
also mentions in passing that tfe color
with which nature has tinted me back-
ground of all her pictures is green, which,
he argues, is consequently the most
suitable ground fOrall colors. Hitherto
there has prevailed wh0t now turns out
to be a popular delusion that the sky
and distance are blue or grey; but with
the authority of MBlanc, member of
the French Institute, late director OF
Fine Arts, to the contrary, this motion
must be abandoned.
M. BIauc's fheories are founded upon
the roperapplication OF five principles
REPETITION, alienation, symmetry, pro-
gressiop, and confusion. He describes
q lovely woman as being enclosed in
network of indexible parallels like
bird in cage, an invisible treliis-wOrk
of horizontal and vertical lines cOntin-
upon this block that he proposes to
hang the texture he so feelingly des-
cribes. How many degrees" he ex-
claims, in the scale of sentiment can
be trayersed between the austerity of a
coarse cloth and the soft luxuriance of
Il f0ulard How many varieties exist
between the flannel which formerly
sutficed the modest grace of Athenian
maidens and the rich silk whose rust
liugs accompany a w0man's movements
and announce her approach! He speaks
of the m0desty of tarlatane, the dis
cretiOn of barege, the holiness OF muslin,
the gravity of poult-de-soie, the quiet
wealth of velvet, and the softly lux
uriant effect of wool, which associates
il with domestic life and family virtuess"
stripes are frivolous and fantastic, and
tartans wholly repugnant to the dignity
of dress.
Having characterized materials in this
eminently practical manner, Nj. Blanc
treats of color. 1t is instructive to learn
that every temperament has harmony
of its own ready to hand. 1t is the fuuc-
ton of the artist to render this harmony
softer or more lively, tn bring out that
which is undecided, tO set off what is
insipid, to temper what is harsh, to bring
into relief what may please, by subdu-
ing what would fail to give pleasure"
He goes deeply into the question of COM
plexion. The usual tint of the skin in
Europe is "yelioW mingled with half
tones of blue, gray and rose color and
to those who have ash-colOred hair, aud
half-warm tints with suggestions OF
neutral gray or slashing of pale blue"
They may wear pearls, (which form
a happy cOnsonance, provided their cold
color ia relieved by polished but un
cut garnet, a ruby, or trlnket OF gold"
Col0rs, he says, have human affinities,
and harmonize with our ideas, but es-
pecially with our feelings and our pas
stems. There is something imposing and
terrible in the robe of criminal judge.
Red in the dress of women and princes
of the Church, is suggestive of pride,
bravery, and license. 1t asserts strong
will. 1tappeals to and proyokes obser-
walton. Of blue we read that its ex-
preston is one of purity, that it is i'm
possible to attach to this color the idea |
of boldness, license, or voluptnonsness,"
that it is unObtrusive and imaginative, |
that Of all colors it ascends to the high
est and descends to the lowest. 1t is |
suitable "in its light shade for the dress |
of an innocent maiden, and in its dark |
for romatic affections, and evening
thoughts II does not suit the time
of love" !" so well as the golden and fame |
color. When of deep shade it seems
to indicate mind which is beginning |
to withdraw itself from the realities of
life, and to incline to solitude, mystery,
and silence The lady who foIesees
D journey" prepares dark blue water
proof and deep green hood. We fore
see that il we meet her in this costume
we shall be frightened. Faded blues
at night assume turquois hue !" but in
revenge, turquoise silk, which by sun
light is beautiful, loses its brilliancy
color OF blue, corresponds
to other feelings. IL gives life to the
harmonies of the dawn, and mingling
with the dramatic scene of declining
day, it adds its nuMberless vibrations
to the endless novelty of spectacle which
the sinking sun presents In the dress
Of womenit must only be used as an
echo, because there il something slight
ly acid in. orange color, just as there is
II, tile fruit from which it derives its
name.r In hair dressing form is most
What difference there is,
he exclaims. between u heitd dressed
with feeling and the game head when
left to chance
He enumerates three principal types
grace and iiIagnifieeisce. The
face must be calm, the nose little
thick, especially nc the roof, and the |
EYE large and full to suit the severe
sfyle. How the noses OF people who i
The root We are not informed. but there !
Is sort of straight nose which from it's
lelicacy and sharpness ceases to be Sc :
Vere.' For this he recommends a cOif-
eure do genre. IL the nose il "un- !
equally short and turned up the ar :
ought to be whimsical and t
q
He deprecates the impromptus of the T
moment with heads of typical form; \
/ traditional style suits them better. i
Long curls have an expression Of senti-
mental geverie suitable to romantic 9
aides. Asa general rnie M. Blanc con- !
,iders that tile hair turned back il more /
graceful and natural than these droop- +
M ringlets which the most chaste and 2
;ensler kiss would disarrange.u AS much = =
.are should be taken with the head j,
lress as with the hair. Flowers, feath-
re, ribbons, lace, and game, have all
characters Uf their own. It is only q
light thread which connects all these
With our feelings, but that slender
bread Ill never broken. Nj. Blanc asks =
With rea. on, = Would y0n place inslif-
on q hanghty head or face ii
r;fh irrnssillar features field fInwers. the g