The Florida agriculturist. [volume] (DeLand, Fla.) 1878-1911, 1878-07-03
A glamour of the Fast boncs

SO" W. AAO W1GSI C3rTlerS SCllA
ply their trade about the streets.
Armenians, Persians, and dwellers of
the far away khanates, may be seen
among the crowd at the markets, and
really looking more at home in their
quaint garbes than do the Western
traders, in hats and trousers. No
where else does the illusion grow
upon one so much as in the numer-
Gus traktirs which surround the mar
kets. The Oriental hangings, the
'diI1vans, the lamps swinging censor
like from the ceilings. all have an
Arabian Nights air, which is height
ened by the appearance of the mute
servants gliding silently about.
dropped in the other day at the
great Moskovski Traktir, to wait for
a friend who was to accompany me
to the markets to see the peasants, or
Mo9iks, selling their household
goods. The Moskovski is one of the
largest, if not the largest, traktirs in
the city, and is the place where
the tea merchants Of Russia rendez-
Vous; for almost every calling or
guild here has its particular traktir
where It's members meet to talk over
business, as well as to supply the
wants Of the inner man. It is not
exactly restaurant, nor yet exactly
an exchange, but partakes of some
thing of the nature of the two; eat
ing, perhaps, being the principal OBJ
ject, and business a secondary consid-
Grafton, in the establishment.
The entrance to the Moskovski is
up broad flight Of stairs, leading
from street intersected with ruts
and dotted over with holes. A liv-
cried servant throws open large fold
ing doors, as soon as the formal
knock is given, and you find yourself
in a temperature which is delight
ful contrast from that you have Just
left. Servants are waiting to take
your Overcoat and wraps Looking
about, you see long apartment with
arched ceiling, and with its polished
floors thoroughly filed with sofas
and tables; the latter of different
sizes to accommodate proportionate
groups, At the far end of the room
stands an immense organ, perpetually
grinding forth airs from the favorite
operas. The place with all its access
.orles-the vaulted roof, the rich
hangings of silk and brilliant woods,
the swaying lamps, the many sofas,
the music and warmth--all contrib
ute to the glamour of novelty. You
have entered upon civilization other
than your own.
The Illusion is increased, too, by
the stealtby movements Of the SER
wants, all dressed exactly alike and
notable for their silent and swift ODE
dience. Unlike the dapper serving
men of all other restaurants you
know, the servants of the Moskovski
are tall, athletic men, apparelled in
white tunics and full white trousers,
and with their long hair brushed
smoothly back from their foreheads
and parted in the middle. Their
manner is a cross between the alb.
surd dignity of the tail.coated, white
neck-tied English, the over jealous
French, and the slam-bang American
walters. All their movements are
unhurried, sustained, and measured,
and, moreover, they don't talk In
deed, no one seems to talk much or
loudly; and the somewhat boisterous
entrance and conversation of my
friend was greeted with an unmistak-
able stare of establishment and
annoyance by the other guests of the
traktir. Neither do the people about
disturb you with that incessant clat-
ter and gingle of knives and plates
which obtains in other places. The
Russians, among themselves, are not
a laxative people, and l am told by
those knowing them well that the
peasants sit habitually silent at home.
To the ear the Russian language
sounds by no means harsh, being
somewhat like English, with all the
hard sounds taken out.
The cuisine of the Moskovski
ranks among the first in the city, and
the list of viands to be had runs
the gamut from the national pot
pourri Of cabbage soup to the most
elaborate of made dishes. The prin-
cipal article of consumption in the
traktir, however, is tea. You cannot
pass day in Russia without learning
The Russian for cup of tea, pro-
nounced, as nearly as l can convey
the sound, " Stackan tchay." Indeed,
as soon as you take seat upon one
of the divans, and have table
drawn up before you, the tall servant
brings tea at once, without an appar-
emf doubt in his mind that Won would