The New York herald., 1878-03-10
Mourning for Victor Emmanuel
and the Pope.
PARTY SPIRIT IN FASHIONS.
How Spurious Gros Grain Silks
Are Manufactured.
THE COMING EXPOSITION.

PARIS, Fcp 2x, 1878.
BY tho time this column alls the space marked out
for in the HERALD The two great public losses which
have suddenly changed the face Of things in Italy
Will belong 10 tho history OF tho past. Society In
Paris, however, is stilI under tho solemn impression
OF those events, at least far external manifesto
tions are concerned. There has been great demand
for black satiD black blonde anu black chenille mule
teer fringe When The death OF Victor Emmanuel
compelled dplomatsts to exhibit the usual evidences
OF complimentary regret mourning could not be worn
light enough; whlo the republican party, tho con-
trary took occasion 10 Overd0 black and appeared In
cashmere suts-a material very sombre in itself.
Even the coat made OF black cloth. Since
The death OF Pho Mono tho republicans manifest
similar spirit OF opposition by Tightening the
!encbrous effect of their black whIie the wives aud
daughters OF the lcgtimsts 10 be In the
deepest cashmere, with Grape bands and facings.
Servants still stretch ana yawn in waiting rooms
when their mistresscs pass By them like shadows
their way to early mass On leaving their secluded
houses In streets without shops and protected by high
walls they quietly glide along the pavement ol the
Rue de Sevres, Rue do Greneo ana Rue de varenne.
they are sometimes quito aono, sometimes In groups
of three or iour. Dl.gusc themselves as they will
With hideous mcrino shawIs anu less hideous meruo
;apotes, they have those tiny feet In kid boots, and
those neat shapcly hands III kid gloves that peculiar
gait and that Frsnchy way OF holding their heads or
their shoulders which IT Is useless 10 endeavor to
cover up even supposlng seven popcs TO die,
one a day, IN The same week. Any mortal flesh rising
at six would respectfully walk at distance behind
such mourners these, anu Hnd himself against his
will, IN tho Chapelle des Peres, where wells are
usually lifted up and whore, by the light OF painted
glass windows, arc revealed arIstocratic noses blue
or brown gray eyes with fearful iashes, and lips
iull of supphcatiop.
How icrvontly do the women OF France pray in the
same breath for Plus TX and for Leo KILL, while
their Husbands in the frame Of spirit as the
servants caunot mako up their minds 10 shake of
oth and with the their early of duty run.
Nevertheless, forty days. fasting end,
md after black cashmere must come silks.
ABOUT BLACK
Now, can talk very isarnedly of black silk,
having quantity or samples cut from the looms
which send forth their fabrics to the exhibition l
wish every lady who means to buy black
nix Knew whit do about that investment
Ana how In feeling of Christian ssterhood
wish they could be preserved from the so-calIed
genuine black cord warranted grease or 10 alb
sOrb dust have seen dealers talk about this cord
Until purple IN the face but they fail convince
me. l have faith Ia weak nbre bad dyes and
weight all these detects incident TO SILK that will
not being hidden under immersious in troaclc
spermacot, and iron. have visited some OF the
manufactures which, even at Lyons make for the
cheap Paris trade. there have known a silk msr-
chant to have handed raw silk for oach
pound OF which he had three in return.
Tho two aot out OF the mixtures
for dressing and dyeipg, not out Of the silkworm
Any one who who has not studied Euclid can CON-
prehend that whatever substance 70 put in tissue
must likewise at some time other come out OF 10
again. lf spermacsti anu iron be boiled in the dye
Of thick, glossy texture. and that texture be made
n n n poba eho 80
wearer win assuredy rub out the Two fronts OF
her skirt all the grease, rsace, &C., prmively put
In the web. This s plain TACT, aud II explains how
soms gros grain silks get shiny and dusty looking In
short time. They are great disappointment, be-
sause they were SO handsome IN the piece such gloss
Iuch feel, such fold. They were expensive, be-
sides; much q yard without duty and tIfs
arsssmakor's bil was long, dreary affair. After q
little compassionate sympsthy, few words Of comfort
and advice Ladies ana male purchasers are equally
TO blame. not the dealers dealer isa human being
bat he IS unfeelng, and that should be taken con-
sidcratlon when he sells black silk People will have
gros grain and will pny the price for II.
THE GENUINE ARricLE
know but OF four reliable firms who tell tho truth
about their products and when places faith
IN their selection he she is asked How uch ~ TO
DO invested on the purchase If the at disposal
be moderate very good snk s forthcoming, though it
may not DO cord II useful dress Is wanted tho silk
'rdercd Tor instance, 10 robe do fatigue or t 10 q
arap dAnvers or dram d'Rhons, the ''drap" at
Lyons not sanifying cloth. PLAIN, close textures
Of black silk Samples should bo written for and
when in hand there is a method Tor selecting good
silk from bad one II, after having made a fold ON
tho cross 10 sample forwarded Is not easily enaced
by rubbing it over again with the nrst finger or by
pulling tho material IN contrary direction, that
silk IL bad. II, on tho other nand. the
ridge imperceptibly disappears, the material Is
good, Tor silks should be supple, however
thick There perhaps silks on record Of such
thickness as those made by tho Greeks whom silk
weaving was first introduced in Sicily. Some o the
specimens show over hundred figures o toga;
whole Bible stories initiated IRON fabrics made
centuries before at tConstantnope These tissues
glossy, supple, and formed drapery folds such
now being attempted IN our trans. The damask
silks again used Tor sacerdotal vestments are, IN
spite OF appearances, supple; no embossed embroi-
derry could Oe worked on them If they wore stn
some oi the iron laden tissues sold Tor gros grams.
nrm iu rich material s soft and has not tho brittle
ieel OF our aduiIeratcd fae.
SILK AT COMING EXPOSITION
Not all the best silk France produce will bo
hibted Ut tho Exposition. Nothing interior will ap-
pear, but there Is among makers ut Lyons spirit OF
emulation which prevents young nrms from showing
their elasrs in reputation tho progress they have
quietly been making. Rising wcavers havo deter.
mined 70 blde their time, beng content to sell by
tail until that time arrives aud until they have ac
quired public patronage, not by showing masterpiece
pnoe In way, but by serving the public well. There
IL confidence and patience system which can
fail 20 secure the reward OF further lame. some
oi the mixed tissues made OF wool aud silk, of lawn
ana silk and OF gauzo with silk designs ars
already ION private view" In Paris. The "aisposl.
lions" OF these stripe OF tho iounaation fabric
nnd another OF open work, such ladders Iattices
.reis patterns, &C. s extraordinary that such thin
materials should be destined TO adhere 10 the female
figure wlthdut spItting. This could not be doue
without tho aid oil tho corsetmakers art Corscts are
now tho real bodices and carapsce made by nature
Is moro clsvcrIy art,cula.sd shan some OF them A
comparatively large space will DO occupied by whale