The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1878-08-10
whtt,n for the IntsIliespper.l ,,,I al
~ Leaves from NY Note Book.
1t. LISBON. ds


II. ..a.
Early one lovely morning In October,
We were steaming up the river Tsgus, In
one Of the Royal Mail Co.'S comfortable
vessels. We passed between the ships Of
the Euslish aset and it vu pleasant 70
see the Gag Of old England waving, - ii
TO welcome US TO new place Of soiourn.
The whole panorama Of Lisbon (which
like Rome IL built on seven hills beau
tifully spread on. before US IN the morn
log sun. The Castle and Palace Of Belem,
forming prominent objects on the one
aide, and the "LazAvetto" or Quarantine
Hotel, built on a bill, equally so on the
other. We anxiously awaited the 'deci-
sion Of the Health Officer, who sentenced
Us to eight days quarantine, and why?
For no other reason tina. We could dis
cover except that = man had died Of yell
low fever at Bahia, 4 fortnight before our
s.esmer touched at that port One would
have supposed that our three weeks sea
voyage from there would have been con-
sidered suficien. publication, especially
a. we had no sickness on board. Soon
boats came along.ide, with baskets full OF
delicious fruit, fresh fss, grapes, pears,
pIums, etc. OF course, they had to
be hauled up by string and the money
put down in the same way, on account OF
our being 10 quarantine. The European
fruits tasted luscious 10 Us after 90 long
an Absence. I like them better than tropi.
cal fruits, which soon pail on the taste
from their extreme sweetness. About II
O'Clock, coal barge or lighter came along
side, into which first, second and third
cla.s passengers went promiscuously-
altogether about 100 people, luggage, par
rot,. monkeys, aud other pets belonging
10 the passepgers.' We soon arrived at
the LsEsretto, which Is Just opposite Lis:
bon, on 4 pretty high hill. We took half
an hour TO trudge up 9 winding path,
paved with ANAL, round cobble stones,
,only h4lt imbeded In the earth. Itwas 4
sort Of martyEdOm, which made ns happy
TO reach the summit We chose our
rooms and we're Just thinking that little
rest would be grateful, when an official
came and told Us We must come down 70
the warehouses at the bottom OF the bill
to open our luggsge, o. descending 70
great deal eAsier IL accomplish than the
noun,ing) we found ourselves in u
very large room, which was divided into
sort Of pens by hanging screens. We we're
Informed that we must take everything
out OF our trunks and hang them up on
those screws, that they might BE- spEiukled
with disintectant! What? five trunks
10 unpack 10 the bottom, take out every
artieie, shake and hang it up? No, that
vas too much 70 bearl We consulted u
Portuguese follow passenger, who ad.
vised "a 10 follow his plan, and use \
golden key. On the application OF this
potent smoother of, difficulties. We we're
Informed that It would not be necessary
10 unpsck' the trunks We need only open
them and prop up the lids with bits Of
wood 10 let in the air. Some poor untor.
tunatess we're obliged to hang up all their
wsrdrobes, and q queer exhibition i
made. We had again to toll up the hill;
and certainly found that our day's work
had given US an appetite for dinner. !
cannot look back upon the "Lazaretto"
as a pleasant place Of abode. The rooms
contained only the strict necessaries OF
life, and our only amusement was the tan.
taliziug one OF '1oking on the blue Tagus
flowing beneath the windows, dotted here
and there with tiny pleasure boats, their
white sails filed with wind, looking
in the distance like stately swans, floating
on the still bosom Of the charming river.
Occasionally burst of laughter from
party Of those gay pleasure seekers
would reach our ears, making US long to
be with them. AT the expiration Of our
term Of days, we crossed 10 Lisbon and
located ourselves comfortably in the
Hotel Dufand. The host Is Swiss, his
wife Eoglish, and they have a tamily OF
seven handsome daughters. The town Of
Lisbon Is all up and down, very clean,
the streets principally wide, the Chiado,
the finest street, Is not so wide "a some Of
the Others, bat has the best shops. One
street, Bua de Orc (Gold Street., Is en.
tirely composed Of iewelry and gold
smiths shops, and a fine display they
make. Every now and then in the course
Of your ramhles, from the top OF some
elevation, you get glimpse Of the Tagus
and its opposite bank, which Is billy and
dotted here and there with pretty little
villages, the white cottages cleaning in
the sun on their background OF olive
trees, the foliage Of which is very
dark. I paid visit early one morn
ing to the market, which Is very
interesting. Tables covered with deli
cious fruits have spread over them q
large awning, made like huge white
cotton umbrellas, the handle dashed to u
pole 10 the centre OF the table. The pref
", rosy, though dark skinned market
women, add attraction TO the scene, they
wear over their heads, stiti1ly starched
white muslin handkerchief tied under
the chin, this forms charming frame for
their piauaute faces and beautiful black
eyes. They wear also, heavy dark
cio.t cloak, pleAtsd closely round the
neck, and large velvet collar contrast
Ing we'll with the roay cheeks and white
handkerchief. They must weigh fear
fully on the shoulders. ] am told that
they descend through several generations,
~ heirloom-. ,.g.lr.,
Lisbon aboupds 10 pretty gardens, the
eE.tre!ta," near the Anglican Church, Is
4 charming promenade. The "Passeio
Publlco," Il q wide garden with astraight
gravel path from end to cod, and =
fJwer garden on either side.
The d.hermen here are rather picsur-
esque In appearance, they wear a very
brosdbrimmed black felt hat put quite,
on the back OF their head, sailor fashion
immeuse gold earrings, aud on their
shoulders large dark blue handkerchief,
with brigh. red and yellow flowers 10
the corners, which are knotted care!essly
10 front. A short dark blue skirt COM
pletes this costume. They go baretooted,
and (psr parsnthese) have very thick
ankles.
Another place worthy Of description is
the cemetery; its very name ia strange:
Cemetario dos PraEsres-Cemetery OF
Pleasures. The collins are not under.
ground, but enclosed in small chApels
With iron doors, most Of which have a
cross Of open work in the centre through
which you can see very we'll. On one,
or sometimes on both aides, are shelves
on which coffns covered with colored
silk, or velvet, are placed. Facing the
door Il an altar, which Ia often decorated
With great taste; q prize diem completes
Ina intarnal ARRANGEMENT Of these little