The Portland daily press., 1878-08-14
[Harper's Bazlr.]
New York Fashions.

The principal trimming for almost all gar
nents worn by Parisiennes this summer is en-
broidery. 1t begins with the parasol and ex-
tends down to hosiery. Black silk parasols are
covered with black or colored needle work. and
filled in with beads. They are lined with white
silk, and edged with black, ecru, or white lace.
Ecru silk embroidered with flower patterns is
used for vests for parasols, fichus, as bands
for dress trimming, and also as bonnet crowns
For the latter it is used with coarse straw bon
nets as crown twisted d la creole, as bandana
handkerchiefs are worn. Soft ecru liren is also
covered with embroidery in Louis XIV. style,
and used for vests. This last is called Russian
embroidery by many dealers, and is sold 10
bright colors, such as red and blue mixed with
yellow aud olive green. 1t is sold in bands of
different widths for trimming different parts of
the dress; very wide bands are intended for the
retrousse facing on the washer-woman over
skirt, while narrower ones are for basque and
sleeve trimmings.
Narrow ribbons are made into clusters of
hanging loops for trimming white, black, and
other summer dresses. They are called Louis
XIII bows. and are very effective when made
of satin ribbon that is double faced, showing
cardinal on one side and turquoise blue on the
other, or gray with carmine, pink with gar
net, moss green with blue or sulphur with
black. They are fastened at the throat, just
back of the neck, on the pocket on one side
and on the washerwoman overskirt band on
the opposite side
Checked aHd plaid foulards are much used in
Paris as trimmings OF baregeS and of WOODEN
dresses. For white barege afternoon dresses
there are knife-peated frills of blue and green
plaid foulard. These frills are pnked on each
EDGE There are also vests, plastrons, and
chemisettes Of checked silk for light wool
dresses. An ecru wooden dress has pleated
vest OF checked ecru and green foulard. A
band of the foulard trims the tunic, and edges
or borders the kilt pleatiug on the lower skirt.
A coarse yet soft rustic straw hat is trimmed
with scarf and large bow of the checked
silk. More elaborate dresses have a curtain
overskirt opening over q checked pleatng
These styles will, it is said, prevail in the au-
tumn and winter.
fetes and for short walking dresses Worth has
revived the casaque This casaque is long
close fitting coat In Louis Quinze style, with
large pockets, large pearl buttons. aud lace
jabot The casaque falls so low on the skirt
that an overskirt is not required.
The TrianOn hat, with large bow in front
made of plaid or striped nabob gauze is worn
in Paris with panier costumes.
Another revival predicted for the autumn is
that of the pleated polonaise with a yoke and
abroad under the name of the blouse casaque.
1t is loose, easy garment peculiarly adapted
Tor summer dresses, but is already being made
up for cooler weather in India cashmere
trimmed with Russian lace and silk embrod-
cry. There are also shirred blouse casaques
without pleats.
Satin and procade are the materials most
used at present for making handsome dresses
that will be worn also in the winter. There
are new heavy yet soft brocades with the ground
woven IN small armure patterns,
line newest short dresses have three kilt
pleated founces crossing the back breadths
from belt to foot. In front there is an apron
wrinkled across and one wide knife-pleated
founce at the foot. Sometimes this short apron
takes the washerwoman shape, and sometimes
1t is merely pleated scarf
The dresses made of Madras plaids and of
bandanna handkerchiefs have become very
popular IN Paris. A small umbrella is also
covered with these gay plaid cottons to match
the dress The handle of wood is carved at
the end to represent the head of a pug dog
A new Partisan fancy is that of wearing the
boutonniere, or small bouquet, not in the waist
bnt on the left sleeve between the shoulder and
elbow, and quite near the shoulder.
Satin or velvet bodices, known as Revolu.
ton bodices, are worn with white muslin skirts.
Ihese are IN Coat shape. with revers and cape
covered with white lace, as, for instance, ruby
satin with Venetian point lace or the old Ven
ice guipure. There is first white silk petit
coat over which is a muslin pleated skirt and
Wasner-Woman oversight bordered broadly with
ruby satin and white lace
Black velvet bracelets are revived to wear
with half-long elbow sleeves They are fas-
tened with square buckles of paste or diamonds
and are ornamented with the serpent and lizard
brooches that are now SO popular. These
bracelets and rocOco buckles are in keeping
with the black lace mitts and country toilettes
known as Tranon dresses.
Monograms that had been little used of late
are restored to favor since the fancy for en-
broldery began. The monogram is wrought on
linen collars, on parasols, on lace mitts, on the
insteps OF stockings anG sometimes on shoes.
Ihe white muslin pleatings once 30 fashion,
able for trimming black silk and colored dresses
are coming into use again. They are worn |
under black lace, or else they peep from be- |
meath ruffies of the dress material A great |
deal OF white lace of very open pattern is also |
used on dark silk dresses among these are |
church lace Cor Irish point, Honitop, Flemish |
laces, the open-meshed torchon without any |
pattern upon it, and Valenciennes of new open |
designs. These are all modern laces vet they |
are given look of age by being dipped liz |
weak coffee until they are quite yellow. They |
are very much used on the panier and Vatican |
dresses Of damask and of foulard that are or |
dered for fetes
A thick rouleau of satin is now used TO finish |
the edge of the flowing train of handsome |
dresses