Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-09-12

drlfted snow; and the WetterhOrn thruSting
perpendeaar IN and 'ah the az Tuohorn
and the WellhOrn, and the SchreckhOrn, and
the Lauteraahorn, and the Finisteraahorn,
and the Grosshorn an and the heb Breithorn. si and the
TschingelhOrn, and the GSpaltenhOrn, and the
DOldenhOrn and the SchneehOrn and prOba-
bly, several other horns, but about this time in
IN the air with not a spark of fire. except a
handful Of embers in foot stove for the use
OF the ladies, that we were compelled to aban-
don the search for mountain horns, and take
stiff horn OF another description discovered
In a wicker-cOvered flask, after which we
went TO bed for warmth, and piled all our
blankets and fluffy outside feather-beds of the
establishment.
OVER THE WENGERN ALP TO LAUTERBRUNNEN.
The sunrise view from the peak of Maun-
hchen, above the hotel, was magnificent. and
the atmospheric effects in the valleys particu-
larly fine. The air was still and mild, and the
sun gave pleasant warmth. The lowing of
the hundreds of cows in the dew-sparkling
pastures below, and the musical tinkle of their
bells, came up pleasantly. Some patches of
snow on the mountain side seemed likely
places for snow balls, but when reached what
looked like snow was pretty solid ice. After
breakfast of meat, bread, cheese, butter, coffee,
and honey, the latter always found upon the
breakfast table in SwitZerland,) we set out for
new wonders OF mountain and valley, going
germ Alp and Lauterbrunnen. In this route
we were passing for nearly the whole of a
cloudless day along the front of the Jungfrau
group, and they were photographed on our
memory in enduring lines. We visited one of
me mountain dalrleS on our way down, to see
how Swiss cheese is manufactured. The pro-
cess was not calculated to inspire an appetite
for that article. The entrance was through
COW house, where ones steps had to be care
fully picked, and the cheese manufacture was
going on in dark cabin, foul with unpleasant
OF the milk in great kettle over a wood fire.
ana IN another part of the room boy
was turning a grlndstone-shaped churn. A
draught of fresh cream got here was not
SO bad, and no doubt the mountain dairy
men turn out very good butter and cheese
from their unpromising quarters. At Shei
geek, the eliminating point of the pass
struck again the routine track of the tourists,
and the path was almost as full of them,-
men, women, and children, on foot on mule
PACK S ana IN & chairs. as pennsylvania avenue is
theaters. The ascent and descent between
Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen by the bridle-
path is steep and fatiguing, though no end of
ladies', and stout ones, too, were sweating up
and down. English women and American
women have taken the mania for Alpine
climbing, and one sees them everywhere here,
with Alpen stocks, short skirts, and stout boots:
Undertaking featS sometimes a good deal be.
yond their strength. The Wengern Alp, where
we stopped to dine at the Hotel Juugfrau, is
for an hour or two in the middle of the day to
see the avalanches. 1t is just opposite the pre-
cipitous snow-laden sides of the Jungfral, a
famous place for avalanches. and so near that
they resemble a rushing cataract, and are &C
companied by noise like thunder" These
avalanches are advertised to come down with
gIeas tast frequency h ABOUT noon when the sun is
under a sun hot enough to demand an um-
Drella without witnessing any thunderous
cataracts OF falling ice. There were two or
nf fny,f fnr
put nothing to come up to the description of
the guide book. Perhaps the avalanches are
receding as well as the glaciers.
WOULDN'T DRINK MARES MILK.
1t was pretty tiresome trip down the
Lauterbrunnen end of the pass, and we were
glad to stop at the little "Hotel Mittaghorn"
for lunch and rest. Our guides had been very
obliging, all the way. practicing wrestling,
fngerpulling and "yodeling' (the Swiss fall
setto minstrelsy) for our amusement, and now
one OF them thought he would give us treat
we should really enjoy. He procured pitcher
and proceeded to milk mare in our caravan,
to offer US some nice fresh mares milk
George O., who up to this time had stood it
manfully in testing all the eeAntuc dishes
enigmatic, soups and stews, tue vinegary
wines, and the cheese of all cOnsistencies from
leather to muSh,-nOw broke out in revolt
Drink mares milk he would not, and he picked
mountain, with the air of one who had his own
opinion OF mares milk drinkers. Some of us
tasted the milk. 1t was not not disagreeable,
was than COWS m
but springs" and there are twenty Or IhirtH
waterfalls here, including the Staubbaci,
Ve 6 cep @ de IKE the Bridal
into spray long before 1t reaches the ground:
SO it gets the name of Staubbach, I"dust
brook, y which is not as insipid as 8 Bridal
as asqSsh Sean i s fS by Ssy any @ %anns
The most striking thing about Lauterbrunnen
is the pertinacity of the venders of wood
carvings. Unlike the general courtesy of the
purchase of their wares was declined We
completed the circuit to Interlaken by a car
rage ride down the White LutSchine; having
the Black Lutschine. At Interlaken we parted
with our pleasant and intelligent companionS
Mrs. and Miss French, who returned to their
boarding boa SIg place at Ihun: Mrs. French, who
in Switzerland.
GIEssBACH.
Every tourist in Switzerland goes to the
GiesSbach, and so went We; 1t is on Lake
Brienz, a short steamer trip from iEterlaken.
The Giessbachi isa series of seven cascades loll-
ing from rcck to rock from great height (high-
est point feet above the lake, land is framed
with dark green foliage. This have stolen
from the reliable Baldeker and suppose it Is
so: but the fall doesn't look the height. Per.
hapS our first impressions were not favorable.
When we reached there 1t was dark and rafny
The tree shaded road to the hotel on an
elevated plateau, lead up by q series OF zigZags
that seemed interminable especially under the
dtscourageme1ts Of the driving rain and
empty stomachs. The light from the hotel
looked always so near and yet so far. and there
were just there. At the same time there was
quite picturesque effect produced by the rays
Of light falling through the green branches
upon the dripping groups toiling up the ascent.
The scene reminded one of DOre'S weird pic
ture OF Hop OMy Thumb, and his dOlOrous
band OF brothers struggling up the mountain
path to the Ogres castle, led on by q single
gleam OF light from the portal of that grim
When at last we reached the hand
some and cheerful looking hotel it turned out
that we were SO unlucky as to have timed our
VI visit .H on 5 SATURDAY, and that 80 many people
60 .ta there a on that M day as pleasant place to
the hotel proper, and had to take up our
line of march to the "dependence.h the
old hotel building some distance away.
rain-pro0f arbOr, however covered The
walk to the lodgings, but when we had secured
our rooms, then 1t was requisite to walk all
the way back to the new hotel for supper SO
it happened that we were not In the best mood
20 appreciate the falls, or the display of Bengal
lights with which the cascades are Illuminated
ever, we were willing to admit that the ilIu-
with different cOlored lights wa
very beautiful, and in the morning to cOncsfje
that the falls under bright skies were worth
seeing, and that the hill side up which we had
!abOred 50 painfully was really a Charming