The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-04-11
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Openings at the leading millinery houses
show what will be selected from the importa-
tions for fashionable use in the city and at the
summer resorts. The bonnets fit the head
pleasantly without being too large; the crowns
are shaped to take in easily the puffs and braids
of hair that are now either on the crown or
just down the back of the head, allowing the
wearer to have high coiffures on some days and
low ones on others. Chip is the favorite ma
terial, only few split straws and yellow Tus-
cans being shown. Partisan ladies are wear
ing silk bonnets for the demi-season to match
their costumes, but they have not yet become
popular here, though some very beautiful ones
are exhibited. In some of these the silk is laid
smoothly on the frame, in others it is shirred
on wires or on small rattans. Again, there are
bonnets with silk crowns and chip or Tuscan
brims, while others have shirred silk brms
with straw crowns. The novelty seen at the
most fashionable houses is the gold Neapoli-
tan bonnet. and also silver bonnets of the same
light braid. Plain black Brusse,s net Is put
plainly on lace frame and trimmed with
pipings OF satin, jet gilt braid, and pleated
Chantilly lace with flowers; this makes most
tasteful bonnet for an elderly lady.
The colors most used are beige, the new
OoS4uouiiuos Iou, Ulu ROlu, anu maStlC gray.
The beige shades are used on black and on
white alike, and combine with almost any col.
or; the pale beige tnts scarcely deeper than
cream-color are becoming to brunettes, but
those with more brown in them are suitable for
blondes only. The dark Jacques red is also
associated with great many other colors.
Bead ornaments are used with great care at
the best houses. The single row of large pearl
or tinted beads on the edgel of the brim is the
best way OF using them. Pearl fringes are on
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beaded brooches, pins with chains connecting
them, and clasps all made of beads. The beaded
coronet is still w0rn but is not as good style as
former :, since it has been so commonly worn
Silver p ,arl beads for bonnets of the palest
blue are very handsome. Gold and silver braids
are still used, being laid fatty on the brim In
rows OF three OF four. Flowers and feathers
are both used more sr aringly than formerly.
The novelty in feathers is the straw-tipped
ostrich feather for trimming Tuscan bonnets.
Other feathers are tipped with tiny seed-pearls,
of long ostrich plumes. The real Roman pearls
are the beads most used by stylish miliiners.
jet ornaments are almost wholly confined to
black bonnets. Watered ribbons are also used
with care, as it is an easy matter for dealers to
have their ribbons hattened in moire designs,
and this makes them; very common. The
watered satin ribbons, however, on the hand
soonest bonnets.
The more simply the bonnet is trimmed the
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are around many crowns, but the newest fancy
is for ribbon laid straight across the crown, and
thence forming strings, while there is also
nalf rosette OF long irregular loops on top, or
else an Alsacian bow. The flowers are down
the left side, sometimes at the very end of the
curtain band. The feathers are short, and in a
cluster OF three curl toward the brim from the
top of the crown, or else a single plume passes
down the right side. There are no more
streamers OF trailing flowers down the back;
the bonnet is too compact looking to permit
these; sometimes there are four strings, two of
which hang behind, but these are the exception.
We have, however, seen but one French bou-
net out OF the many imported that is without
strings 70 tie In front. The Greek fillet of vel
vet or silk fatly folded and less than an inch
wide is the most stylish face trimming. No
flowers and very few ruches are inside the
front OF bonnets. Shirred silk or satin Innings
are on many bonnets, and these serve for the
only face trimmings.
New veils are narrow black net pieces to
be worn like a mask veil. The lower
edge is hemmed, and has a light fringe
of fine chenille, and there are dots of
chenille all over the veil. Some OF these
have the dots busted over with gilt, or else
with rainbow-colored tinsels to match the rain
bow beads on the bonnet. Beige-color is also
seen in wells of this quaint brown-yellow shade
dotted with chenille of the same color These
are handsome with chip bonnets that are
trimmed with beige-color.
Inere Is nOtuins ueW tO De SAID as yet about
round hats as the novel designs will appear
later just before the ladies go into the country
for the summer For city streets the chip
round hats have square brms in front, turned
up close and sides like English walking hats,
but is trimmed with loops or with dropping
breadth OF gauze. The side brims are not faced
with satin velvet as they formerly were, but
are left to show the fine chip. For black or
else bege-colored gauze is much used. 1t is
put on in full, luxurious looking scarfs. and
there is an ostrich tip or wing, and an orna,
on such hats, For the country are wide-brimmed
shade hats, and the pretty Peg Wothngton
with split brm t1aring upward on the left side,
and trimmed with full wreaths OF roses or else
OF leaves. Pale blue and dark red are associ-
ated in these CAV hats, also beige and red. The
useful toque with the brim turned down in
front and up behind is much larger than for
merly and islsuitable for both town and coun-
try.