Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1878-12-11
COSMETICS.
A Peep Into a Fashionable Lady's BOu
dOir-.-The Art Of ROuging and
PenCillag.


OOoMtllCte dIt ullAutu AnOV thlC0
classes, face powders, rouges and pen
ellis. 0fthe first named, there are a
great which are, by the French,
again diYidedintdtwo kinds or qualities
viz: Beneficial and poisonous" Face
powders which are beneficial to the
skin are very carefully and cautiously
made and very expensive, and only the
wealthy can afford to use them. To
supply those who have not the requi-
site funds at their disposal to purchase
the high class of goods, cheaper and
poorer material is employed, and sub
stances used whichare said to be hurt
full and dangerous. These goods are
kept for sale by nearly all dealers in
dry, fancy and notion goods. The
profits on them are large and they are
sold for what they are worth, without
responsibility.
The majority Of ladies lacking ex-
p%erience, fall into the error, that high
prices are fancy prices, and that no
good articles can be obtained for less
money. The regular dealers hold to
the rule that it is much better for
them to sell only the pure and high
cost goods, although they lose many
oftheir customers who are unwilling
ly in search of, and can afford only the
inferior and injurious articles.
The best face powder to be used
in the street is claimed to protect the
skin from sharp-cutting winds, dust
and sun. Many contend that powder
is more injurious than the dust and
air, but practical experience shows
that not only does it protect the skin
exposed, but it whitens and softens it.
The best article Of this kind, univer-
sally used in France and England,
and now coming into use here, is call
ed China powder" In the use of
cheap powders, when the skin absorbs
the injurious minerals of which they
are composed, the skin becomes hard,
dry, and cracked, and their use is
said to be very detrimental to health.
Liquid cosmetics are, with many, in
high favor. This article is used most
IL for home and (by the discreet) street
use. The cheap liquid cosmetics con-
tain lead, mercury, salts and other
poisons.
The second class is rouges, made of
vegetable and animal matter and color
ed by cochineal mostly. They are in
great variety, from the china leaf,
which Is so delicate that il * used on
the lips, and its presence a hardly
be detected upon the closest scrutiny,
down to red powdered chalk. 1t re-
quires a fFe-dollar note to possess a
small box the size of a pen-box of a
rouge said TO be made from the genu-
inc damask rose. The Creme I'm
peratrice," Creme de Turoque" and
Rose des SouYeraines are among
some Of these costly luxuries. These
are for home use. On the stage
creams and powders of good and bad
quality are used, according to the
taste and quality of the actress, with
some its use being almost indispensa.
bic for good effect. For the lips ant
eyes, cosmetics are shown in sticks
The finest and most costly is called
the raspberry stick which is deli
cate in tint, durable and not at al
injurious. The manufacture of thi
article is a secret. Tsllow is largel,
employed in making the cheap good
of this class.
The third class is pencils. Thes
are used only to any extent by mem
, bers Of the dramatic and musical pro
fession, and the object is to give tn
eye a bright, vivacious and youthful
appearance. The Arabs have it i
general use to give the eye a perfee
a oval shape.
In France the eye-lashes are colore
t with what is called the "mysteriou
5 pencil" or Koheuil, a very expensiy
article, which is applied with an ivor
l. stick. 1t is said that tears or an
moisture fail to dull or deaden il
lustre, and also that the absorption
81 it by tho eye has no bad effects. TIL
n article is not yet in use in Americ
s where but very little penciling is don
b A French expert says; In the al
\ plicatiOn Of any face powder or roul
st the face should DO submitted to co.
10 cream, then busted with rice powde
le then wiped entirely clean with a linC
towel, and only then is the skin
proper condition to receive the co
metip. 1t should always be rcmov,
before retiring.
ID The reason assigned Why oosmeti
are SO expensive is the many process
50 the materials are said to undergo b
n fore injurious substances are remov,
es to avert bad effects before the articl
u is fit for uso, and also because all
the finest qualities are made In seer
Tho manufacture of all the fine goo
n is confined TO France. In this cou
nj try only the cheaper and moro col
he mon goods are made, principally
90 Philadelphia and Now York and t
.es Ingredients employed arechalk, stare
M white lead and purified and rein
We tallow. Rouging in Boston is vC
ID. prevalent, and the use of this arti'
ds Is daily increasing.
is ~
A pilgrimage composed Of abe
IL 5OO archbishOps and bishops, a
Sc more than 10000 other persons, is
~ lDg organized for the end Of tho pr
IN est Ia1nth 10 Goa, where the roma
81 ~. Francis Xavier, which are (
posted there in a m~ausoloum, will
"a exhibited during fhree dave Cir