The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-08-01
THURSDAY MORNING, AUGUST /.
tHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

a great deal Of stirring is used on the Paris
ian dresses that have been sent over since the
latest openings. In the first place, large round
collars al deep coffs of thin dress materials
are made up entirely of fGely shirred rows.
fokes OF muslin and of grenadne are shirred
either across or perpendicularly. Plastron
squares are sbirred, and there are shirred vests
Polonaises of cashmere have close princesse
backs with beted fronts. and these full fronts
are drawn into shape by clusters of shirring
done at intervals across the front preadths.
Oversk:rts with deep aprons have rows of shir.
ring down each seam, and it is probable that
the shirred founces will also be revived.
Banting dresses are found to be among the
most serviceable for country use, 10 the mount
aims, and as travelling dresses. These suits are
not made Of the sleazy mixed fabrics sold for
20 or 30 cents yard, but of serviceable quail
ties costing from 40 cents upward. These
shake of dust, do not cookie, and will endure
hard usage. Blue buntings are rather psssees,
aud the choice now Is for ecru, mastic gray or
black bunting. These are made up in conjunc-
ton with silk of the same shade and of light
weight, and are almost as pretty as fine cam
els hair costume The colored Cluny laces
trim scru and gray bunting prettily, and on
rome the white Russian lace is used in con-
junction with black velvet ribbon or with dark
seal brown velvet For black and dark blue
buntings the best trimmings are silk and knife
pleatingsS OF bunting raveled on the edge to
form fringe. A habit basque with a silk vest
and wide folded silk belt in front and the wash
erwoman overskirt Is favorite design for such
dresses. The retiousse band of the overskrt
and the triangular pieces behind are of silk,
ynd these are edged at the top with knife pleat-
ing; this pleating mnst not be repeated at the
bottom OF the turned up band. A novelty this
season is the bourette bunting.
Among fancy French ornaments there are
lizards Of brlliants set in silver, to be used not
only as brooches. but for ornsmenting dress
waists, belts, scarfs and hats. The lizard de-.
sign is preferred, but there are also many drag
ons and pretty small square buckles; the lat
ter are placed down the front of the dress, or
else on slippers, where they look very brilliant.
Silver combs in dligree designs are used with
the low coiffures that are in vogue this summer.
Some have narrow high tops, while others lean
over toward one side. There are also many
with ball tops or bands of GOLD or silver. These
ere worn quite far forward on the hair, and
from the front have the effect of Grecian
fillet binding the front hair.
Fins for the hair are ornamental balls.
Some are of red gold, and others of the palest
yellow Roman gold, and there are massive
silver pins. The knobs are cube shaped, or
else round faceted balls. Squares with hollow
centres have pendent chains to which balls are
attached, or else there are thick hanging rings
Some are dotted with pearls or with turquoises,
and other have cut steel facsted upon them and
Rlittering like diamonds.
Pretty neckerchiefs for the balcony are half
squares of pale blue or rose-colored silk in bas-
kat open-work. yet brocaded and edged with
fringe that La tied in the hem.
Large round collars are made of three rows
of Valenciennes lace, each an inch wide, laid
in knife-pleatings, and finished at the top by
one stand ing row of the pleated lace and an in
ner pleatng of crimped crepe lsse. These
pleated lace collars are far handsomer than
those with gathered rows of lace lately de-
scribed. A vine of embroidery heads the upper
pleating, and some collars have loops of narrow
satin ribbon down each side of the front and in
the middle Of the back. Cuffs to wear outside
of tight sleeves are made to match the collar
Other new collars similarly made are sharply
pointed in the back and front.
A small bow of inch-wide white ribbon is
worn at the throat with dark morning dresses
and linen collars Narrow satin ribbons OF
dark Agrippina red are worn with black grena.
dine dresses. Those at the throat have long
loops hanging, and the two ends are then car.
ried down to the left hip and fastened on the
back OF the basque, from whence hang loops
and ends.
Small white handkerchiefs, with the edges
ecalloped and wrought with o color, are formed
into pretty pleated bows for the thrO at, to wear
with morning dresses.