The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1878-01-12
Ghin9s abroad.
Correspondence Of the Nep York Observer.
LAKE COMO.
AN EARTHLY PARADISE,
nY 4 LAnY.

auOhueF sphere. Hc uFedusS vi ldlI 1tduu
are realized, and earth, air and sky unite
to charm the senses and entrance the
spirit. We left Milan yesterday morning,
aud came by rail to Como, and BY boat
through the Lake to this exquisite spot.
All the afternoon we sat on our balcony
at Bellagio, looking out on the lake and
mountains, entranced by the beautiful
lights and shades, the fragrance of jessa-
mine and roses, and breathing, with
dreamy wonder, the soft, balmy air. The
sunset was the most beautiful view of Ma
ture that life has brought me thus far, and
the loveliness of that hour was revela-
tion. The Italian tints | have often seen
pictured, but l never believed in them;
and this is not picture-it is living,
changing scene,-and the soft coloring of
the hazy landscape is only one of the sub
tie influences which delight one here. |
close my eyes, and it is still the same. A
gentleman told me, this summer, that this
was place to visit if one we're twenty
one; but it does not need youth or romance
to make Como delightful, though / do
think that one could renew their youth
here most blissfuliy. l have not seen
cloud since we came to Italy, and it is the
/ height of the season for the Lakes. This
hotel-the Grande Bretagne-is the larg-
est in Italy and beautifully kept. 1t is
more like Aarrogate to us, than anything
VIC have been in on tie Continent. All
the guests are English and Americans.
We left the Germans suddenly and entire
ly in the Austrian Tyrol.
This morning we took one of the pretty
boats with scarlet cushions and awnings
and two rowers, and went out on the Lake.
Such lovely morning, and with every
turn fresh vision of beauty the villas
dotting the shore with terraced gardens,
and wa lis often covered with scarlet vines
that dipped their tendrils in the Lake
water. Little villages nestled here and
there under the cliffs or on the mountain
side, the convent bells Ginning with many
echoes far and near, and the fragrance of
a thousand flowers mingled with every
breath of this balmy air At the Villa
Melzi we stopped, ascending the stone steps
through garden that was like great
conservatory Out-of-doors, and were shown
through the house. Here the works in
markle of Thorwaldsen and Canova are
exquisite Two of CanoYa's statues have
never even imagined could be so beautiful.
A little boy took US through the grounds,
and gave US each sprig of jessamine and
bunch Of lemon yerbena;-this last was
trained as vine, and would have covered
one side Of church. On the other side
of the Lake we stopped again: again as
cended broad stone stairway, and walked
through long garden lawn-a wall on
each side covered with jessamine-to the
Villa Guilia. This charming house fronts
on the Lecco, branch of Lake Como, and
Its garden extends to that shore also. We
sat among the flowers, with a view before
us so lovely as to be beyond description; and
felt that no day had ever been so fair,
no scene SO exquisite as this.
Two little girls-the gardeners chill
dren-had followed us by my encourage
ment, and | rested between my quiet &C.
stacies to amuse myself with them. They
are so pretty, these Italian children, and
not dull; they meet smile half way, and
return the slightest fovor with devotion
and grace that make you wangat once to
do more. One of these babies was named
Josephine and the othery Caroline; and
Josephine, as elder, gathered us flowers,
telling the name of each, and with her
dark eyes as well as her sweet voice assur-
ing us Of their fragrance, and asking if
they were not most beautiful. | asked
them if they had dear mamma, and the
reply was :-"Yes, yes-at home" In
walking back, we passed the gardeners
house, where the mother was sitting, sew
ing little garments, just within the door;
and we left the little ones at her side, say
ing "adio" and ''gratzia" very prettily to
us, while knew they were eager to show
mamma the money we had given them, as
soon as we were gone.
This afternoon we have walked, and the
sun has set again in a soft glory that is
like new miracle every evening. The
shades gather, the little boats come in from
over the Lake, the steamers "Como'' and
"Elvczia" bring new guests to this fine
house, and another table d'hOte is immi
nent. We are not so lost in the loYeliness
of Nature that We do not enjoy the crea-
ture comforts by the way. Indeed, think
that, wanting these luxuries within, we
should not find the joys without half SO
inspiring.
1t was no easy task to leave fair Como
on day so fair, but next morning we took
the pretty rowboat in which we enioyed
so much, and went to Menaggio, on the
opposite side of the Lake, and there ar
ranged for carriage to take us over the
mountain to Porlezza. We wound by
gentle ascent up the hillside, thinking at
every turn that We should not see Como
any more; but at each height the view
was wider aud more lovely than the last.
until we reached little chapel ON the tip
top, where we lost the lake and begun the
descent towards Lake Lugano. At Por-
lezza we took steamer and came down past
many curious towns, with vineyards and
olive groves on the mountains which en-
close the deep blue waters, to Lugano and
our hotel
As l had failed to see a convent with
its inmates, the next best thing was to see
one that had been transformer; and this
hotel was once a Franciscan monastery.
and is perfectly preserved. 1t is all of
stone-wall, stairways and floors. You
should see our suite of rooms The Sleep
ing-rooms open from the salon, and this is
ten feet square. The one window opens
on a stone balcony with charming view
over the Lake. Ihave just been out there
to see the moon resting in the rosy sun
set sky and already casting its pathway on
the water. Within our little salon we
have tiny lounge and centre table, easy
chairs and round, white stove that, if it
had an urn above it, would do for a mon
ument. These rooms were once the cells
of the monks, and the buildings are large
and massive, built in two quadrangles and
surrounded by gardens and strong walls.
| walked this afternoon, upall the terraces
to the long path that overlooks the con-
vent and Lake, where the brothers, no
doubt, spent many hours pacing to and fro
and telling their beads or resting on the
broad stone benches, where VIC sat to-day.
When we came down, we went into the
chapel connected with the monastery.
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