Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-07-01
THE EVENING STAR.
MONDAY........... 1, 1875.
FASHIONS FOR ,yTLY.
summer IOilettes and MONOGRAM
Eans-A Twenty-Five Dollar Outfit
The Latest i'm ParasOls-A Modern
WOman,s Miseries

lhere is DOCK OF French carieatureS now
very rare, entitled I'm Antre Monde" by
Granville, who was the great master of DorG,
ana furnished the originals for many of his
most grotesque conceits. Among the chap
tiers, IL my memory serves me rightly, is one
on the minor miseres' Of men, and looking
through il and seeing how easily they can be
turned into the broadcast jests one can but
wish that some clever and experienced woman
artist would do the same good turn for her
eX and change the everyday annoyanceS of
our modern clothes into the means for raising
a healthy, natural and wholesome laugh-a
gn OF freedom from worries and yeNations
now becoming all too rare.
Every woman who has had an experience
with modern dreSSmakerS; who has lost her
tavoTlte bows in the street; who has felt her
tie back" giving way at critical moment;
the faSteningS of whose tOurnure have de
serted their post, TO her unutterabe shame
ana m0rtlfcat1on, will understand what |
mean. But these are not the only troubles
Inns seems to be the end of ShiftleSS, slack
lll-done work. Every article that is purcha Sed
ready made is left unfinished, and the pa lent
or impatient fingers of the purchaser mast 90
over seams, faSten ends, and sew on buttons
before daring TO wear a new garment. if she
would be saved the humiliation OF seeing her
self drop apart like the wonderful creations
OF pr estiGi gitateur.
Buttons have always been the hete nOfr of
W. men since the foundation of the world, or at
least since the invention of Shirts but At
one time, the liabilities were supposed to be
Conhned 10 the accidents and emergencies of
me particular garment, of late years. however
anu especially since studs have replaced but
tons upon shirt fronts. buttonlesS shirts have
become mere nothing, beside buttOnieSs
boots and buttoneSS twelve button" gloves
In Tact, buttons have become such a source of
constantly recurring trouble, that the old play
Oh Button, button, whose got the button has
fallen into dlSuSe. and 10 suggest it, as source
OF mlrlh and enjoyment, would seem to be
adding insult to injury.
q her minor mSerieS are the shapes of the
naS and the heels of the shoes, so that il is
literally true, that our woes begin with the
Gown OF The head and end only at the feet.
we talk great deal about variety i'm fashion
being adapted TO every diversity of style but
as general rule no woman gets the style
which ,t IS specially adapted TO her; The effect
oil The diversity is as utterly mixed and uncOn-
EruOuS as II they had all been shaken up i'm a
bag, and each person was obliged to take the
one That came out first, then they have got to
abide by il, and be martyred every time if is
worn until it is worn out. 1t is no use to talk
tons.
The untrimmed hats and bonnets of the
period look ike nothing human or divine until
they are trimmed, and nine-tenthS of even
what are called ''well-to do women buy thP
untrlmmed, purchase the trimming, and put il
pay the milliner's prices.
The nOndeScript way of wearing the hair is
another misery. 1t is safe to say. that ninety
nine out OF every hundsad Women i'm the
country, are tOrmented with the problem of
how TO wear their hair, and for the most of
them. II is never solved.
Another misery is the glove question apart
from the buttons. Modern gloves cost twice
as much as formerly, and are almost worth
less. The market is flooded with wretchei
article which initiates in form and finish a
good foreign make. but in the wearing proves
TO be delusiOn and a snare That the but
tons disappear, goes without saving. the next
Inc side seams cape widely, and before they
have been worn a week the fingers and thumb
begin TO crawl through the rotten tops
Human nature cannot provide against all
these sources OF worry and annoyance, but
woman nature has to endure them: There
are many others, such as committing fine
handkerchlefS to the care of the laundreSS and
never seeing them afterwards; having your
PEI pillow SaamS scortched, and your pet col
lars and cuffs which you have been saving up
money TO get Tor three months. torn: to find
that your own particular silk umbrella has
been lent, instead of the cotton one kept for
such purposes, and to have shabby old ala
pacca one returned in its place. But these
mlserleS are not exclusively modern nor all
OF them feminine, but belong to all time and
all places where civilization and Christianity
are known, SO 1t is not the intention to discuss
them.
PARTISAN TRUNK.
lnOSe readers who have never been present
al the opening of Paris trunk "a trunk bought
In the Rue RivOli, and filled with pretty
DIRE SSeS and French elegancies of various
klndS, cannot conceive and certainly will not
appreciate, the Importance attached to its
arrival. sometimes it is made the occasion of
a small, but select, luncheon parry. the partici
pants IN which, after the final discussion of
ices, fiulf and sweet punch, and wild sherry,
adjourn to the bOudoir of the hostess and
there crowd about the object of their interest,
each anxious to get the best view at the trea-
SureS contained within its brass bound lid At
a recent ceremony of this kind, at which two
ladies' besides the owner assisted there WAS
displayed, first an elegant princeSSe dress of
white SILK, covered with white barege, made
with delicately plated fiounceS and enriched
with an exquisite embroidery of field mar
guerltes, with pendant buds, and sha led
10llage, executed upon gauZe. A second dress
was OF thin maStlc colored wool, and this had
a long basque with waiStcoat of faille, and
trimming OF embroidered galloon. the vest
finished with a lovely lace jabot. A short CO.'S
tune was of beige camelS hair (yery
hnel in small invisible check, the faille I'M
derSklrt and vest matching in shade. All the
dresses had the pretty lace finiShings at the
neck and sleeves, the bows, and whatever gar
nlture was necessary to render them complete
A bonnet OF pale chip, in the Marie Stuart
form. was ornamented with a fiat band of
light bronze satin ribbon, upon which was set
enclrcllng the crown, row of twelve insects
In hlagree gold; a willow plume, tipped with
gold, was placed so as to cover the coronet
ike fringe, and shade the band of bronze
sa'ln, threaded with gold cord, which sustain
ed the brim. The edging of this latter was
effected with gold braid, piped with bronze
satin.
There were two sleeveless paletots. one of
black lace beaded in colorS, and striped with
embroidery, and another of twilled Surah silk
trimmed Win Wide ValencienneS lace, and haV-
ing large yalencienneS lace pockets upon the
back. There were undergarmentS of rose
pink, and ivory twilled silk. eXquisitely trim
med with lace, and wrapper of pale blue in
the same cool, cinging, delicate fabric fin
lShed with cascade of fine, wide tOrchOn lace
extending all the way down the front and dot
ted with fiat loops of marrow blue ribbon.
There were also lace necklieS, a light fichu of
lace, with a pretty enameled bee upon the
shoulder, and some lovely white lace mitS,
trimmed with knots of ribbon. 1t would be
breach OF confidence TO tell Of other contents
OF that famous box, almost as magical in its
power OF transformations as PandoraS. But it
may be remarked that the recipient, ShOrn of
all toilette acce SsOrieS, shows nature reduced
to its lowest terms, and that encased in the
mysterious contents of the lower righthand
corner OF the ever to be- remembered but
harmless looking receptacle of style and fash
ion, she became soft, round, plump-in short,
miracle OF Partisan, il not plaS .ic art.
SUMNER ToILETTEs.
The thin summer beige, camel'S hair and
gasoline have quite taken the place of bunting
and are usually made as short costumes, in a
style that furnishes strong reminder of
dresses worn thirty years ago. The very latest
French models consist of skirt with fiounce
at the bottom, a front laid i'm straight folds
and back slightly draped, but plain upon the
hips. The bodice is round, high and finished
with capeS or breteleS, which crosses the
shoulder and outlines a collar In the back
With this simple dress is worn a cape of the
material which is finished with plated ruff