The New York herald., 1878-09-30
DANE FASHIONS MANDATE.
The Costumes Most Favored by the
Beau-Monde.
RICH AND COSTLY TRIMMINGS.
Artistic Combinations in Dress Goods
and CoIors.

When women cease to about what they wear
or how they put on their clothing the head of the
house will have 10 establish kind OF family pound,
where discipline will restore the imprisoned to
healthy sentiments. Dress has now become one OF
the fine arts, and 1t is comfortng-st least to women
charged with too great devotion to dressto observe
the remarkable interest which the artists show In
trained pettcoats half width draperies and the man.
agement OF buckles, bows and other pretty tries.
The artist may be an artist, It Is apparent; but
woman's woman for a. that, and under her fingers
bows and buckles always settle themselves as II by
predestination. The new order OF the new season
concerning princess dresses, it will bo sscn, will
be = fresh witness to this natural readiness which
charactsrizes women. The plain, almost severe
etyles, will still be in handsome materials,
combining two or three fabrics and 1t does not
necessarily include trained skirt this season, either,
ana is frequently seen in the form Of walking dress
Skirts have become fresh objects Of interest this TALL
aud while the kiltplated design still admired Tor
variety OF materials ladies require another shape for
fabrics which are too heavy after they are plated
II Is plain to 90 that the new poonases are to
war against princess dresses. Many Of the handsome
styles elaborate in design aud trimming that
they constitute entire costume and make an ele-
rant appearances Loopings OF precise kinds are
mv0feo ior poionaises, but tne piustronS reVers,
mixtures of material aud color, are scarcely to be
described. Tho short dress has to a considerable
sxtent rsesabiished itself In public favor. 1t has
been largely used during the summer by young ladies
for the hops at watering places and OF the very
prstsst dresses seen at Long Branch, Saratoga and
Newport wsro of organdy, made short and trimmed
with white lace and colored ribbons.
Black silk toilets are iashonably and popuIarly
worn as ever; but instead OF being combined with
velvet thoy now worn stylishly trimmed or com.
bined with satin or brocade. The conjunction Of
aille with satin 10 almost universal in elegant recep
lion dresses and Is by means confined to black,
but the two are usually OF the same shade. as well
color, when such colors as blue mauve chosen
variation IN color being observed only In the trin-
ming Velvet is more used in conjunction with wool
Tor street costumes shan with silk, and for this pur
pose 1t s very useful ana stylish. Silk away
from the wool and has fat not at all elegant ap-
pearancs, used either trimming or in combination
But velvet OF the same shade stands right out with
nne effect, greatly enrching woolen costume, and
II OF good trimming quality lasts as long the wool
NEW COMBINATIONS MATERIALS.
An important revival Is that of watered silk which
is used combination with faille satin and vel
vet new and artistic style OF ornamentation has
been applied TO II, which rs very effective, consisting
OF gold embroidery outlining tho design. Gold
purpose, and a fine gold braid is also introduced,
which assists In bringing out the simple and fbrous
character OF the designs In the formation OF styi
ish costume the moire used for the vesi the cus
the rolling falling collar the facing OF the
pei OF the haDit bodice
Another revival Is that OF SCOTCH plaid and ch eek
which used In combination with plain WOOL The
union ot very dark blues and greens Is perhaps
tho best the basis OF PLAIN material being invisible
green or indigo blue, and instead of sti6 walking &
Jacket scarf the whole width OF the PLAID may be
picturetquely draped, tho ends FALLING the
shoulder II the habit boaics is used Tor these cos
tunes the Dress including tho vest, should bo prin-
c,pally composed OF plain material The plaid Is
employed Ia the deep bnding or facing OF tue deep
psinss IN the facing vi tue cuffs anu Ia the making
OF bows and straps me scarf round wrap Will 0o
wholly formed OF the paid High color SHOWS itself
more IN masses than II mas done late
years ana arrests instant attention. There are
all red dresses In preparation Tor winter fes-
siviIiss and all red bonnets, which Will be worn
At theatre opera. The dresses arc COMB ina.
lions Of faille with satin, satin with veivet
eade, ana ars enriched with old point iase placed
Ia the square neck ana as ruies 10 the elbow sleeves
Red stockings are worn with black dresses or req
bows on the Shoes red rose IN the bodice repeating
the break IN The otherwise somore Character OF tho
toilet Recent imported iabrics, such as br0caded
satins and vevets, are very rich and snow mixture
OF high brilliant color, which is, however, so nd
They are very expensive, but rs emily u small qaan.
tty IL required to trim dress or costume inc aggre
Increased.
AUTUMN TRIMMINGS.
There are numerous varieties oi tanain<e ruches and
gslloons and severai novelties In the taiaee rBges
oi ali coiors, spaced with alternate crimpeu fringe
aua tamsnee ana pain silk A new gaoon has
raised crry surface OF chcnile aud silk upsiancing
loops, very velvet Ike anu pretIy Tue mixture Of
whitc cusnills and pearls in the new gaIeons has
proved DO 80 gencray liked thar several designs
nave bcon brought iorw ard. Among them are gi,nps
Of pearl and crystal beads, elective ior laying
white SATIN All tue new fringes are deep.
measuring not less than four, and reaching
ksHn nl0 FtEtn
tiop-and the shades of all mixed toettes arc
repestsd In the irlnges wnIcn Trim them
on gray, has deep netteu heading OF both colors
enaing In thick pendants nve inches long. These
alternating, Win the PINK aud blue equally distributed
Inc tasssl lorms prominent feature IN all iringes
tnis fall Jet mixtures abound IN black frIngss.
Beads are strung IN aud out OF iasseis, and also su1
tho headings with beautiful brlisncy. PiatIngs
are csrtain 70 bo retained. but an appear.
sncs OF novelty Is inevitably required, aud
this rs 10 be accomplished by extra orns.
nsntation placed upon The plaits Very deep side
platings upon skirts are divided off at dis
tances BY clusters or three pipings OF velvet or
brilliant satin. The lsncy Tor pinked lounces and
gathered as well as ned ruche, are revived
this season. The chicorie rucno IS plated through
the centre either IN clusters continuously and tao
edges are notched In simpio saw teetD. Different
klhds oi p'nkinE are aavised Tor different qualities
OF silk. large scallop cut IN rich SILK has smaller
scaiiops. anu sui mVre SNOWY pinKng tue SER
rated Icai, when ~ 30 SNOWY mat the nounce which
u edges may be comparativcy scani. Embroidery Is
30 streLuously urged AS general garnIurc ior ths
new heatOn mat IL ls Dceved tnS Industry viii DO Vf
valuo during the winter SIX emUfoidery, cilher
with or without beads, or blended with silt gver,
rheEille ana noss work and ..skelch workn on
woolens, executed with fine zephyr WOOL and floss In
long stitches, are the kinds OF needle work kcy
be used upon the material Vests ana tuvor iron Is,
win the sleeves anc colaretcs showing reduced pat
terms Of embroidery, arc Tor black silks with let and
garnet beads used ior gayer anentalons.
New buttons are larger than formerly, those for
outside garments beng the SIZE tweniy cent
coin. vsgsablevory buttons have raised centres OF
paie pearl; anu bell and pear shaped buttons IN
FnR 0sf Vol AL uDln that auAt
oilk ana embroidered buttons arc puilet shaped
stead of Hat Real tSroise shell Is one OF the latest
tancss, anu these are lnlad with gold fancy col
ored pearl Ia the most COZ omerato ner yet pre-
Serving degree oil taste and beauty quite surprising
Pyramid pearls are circle of sparks that