Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1878-11-15

Jennie June in Albany Evening journal.
The belle of the season of 1852 will Iii
d orally be bound in white and gold, this be
ing the fashionable combination of the sea
son. White for grand toilettes is as muc
the rage as ever, and more costly than eveI
for not only are gold threads introduced int
. white brocades, but train dresses OF whit
satin are enriched with gold, and white sill
embroidery, trimmed with showers of gol'
}, and white Marebout fringe, and lace sleeves
| into the design of which delicate gol,
threads are also introduced. The most fash
: ionable white Opera cloaks are embroidere,
with mixture of white silk and gold, ant
the most distinguished white bonnets hav'
brims edged with gold cord, and are trimmed
with gold colored satin ribbon, and Ostnci
or Marabout feathers tipped with gold.
Charming new wrappers for indoor weal
are embroidered up the front. and upon the
cuffs and pockets with stalks and leaves ex
ecuted in the shade OF old, pure AID ordlna
ry gold, and have tiny golden butterflies oil
other small insects with expanded wings
poised upon leaf or stem. These cannot
be bought, but ladies of artistic tendencies
embroider them at home, and the compO-
stion mentioned is the latest and the most
approved of all those which have originated
from the London School of Art
WINTER FABRICS.
The newest and the richest OF these is the
Pekin stripe-which consists of stripes an
inch wide of MORE alternating with one OF
satin upon which is small brocaded figure
| in colors This is usually combined with
plain satin OF the ground color. blue being
the most fashionable at least consider
ed the most desirable.
The brocaded velvets are also very rich,
but these are usually self-colored and are
combined with plain faille of the same shade.
Thus d costume of claret-colored brocaded
velvet and faille will be trimmed with bands
of soft feathers to match, and the swell bon
| net with claret.colored velvet feathers to
| match the trimming. Such costumes are
| made in brown as well as claret color. and
also in dark ponne. The most expensive
stuffs are the hand embroidered velvets and
| satins which are used exclusively for trim
ming purposes. The designs are always very
| small, and gold and red are always introduced
| into them, SO that they very effective
without being at all pronounced. the Orien-
tai blending of color preventing them from
| being striking. The cost, of course, Is very
| high, bit they are now used for display as
well as tor vests. cuffs and collars. Instead
of cuffs the deep, rounded cap of forty years
ago is sometimes added to the top of the
sleeve, the cuffs being made of antique
lace.
Beside these marvels of handiwork, the
small figured brocades and reversible silkS
seem quite poor and of no special import
ance, vet they are really very beautiful, well
made, and in combination with rich faille
and trimmed with fringe to match the figured
silk, constitute elegant toilettes. Many OF
the finest effects in costumes are now pro-
duced by an application of ornament to
plain fabrics. Thus, plain black silk and
satin are made into gorgeous masses of fine
silk and let passementerie and embroidery,
the ornamentation following the regular de
sign, which sometimes introduces very ad-
mirable and thoroughly artistic effects. Thus
feather designs, dropping fuchias, and wheat
ears mixed with blue-bells may be recognized,
and the effect of all this is very much height
ened by the fringes, which are very light and
made of narrow, flat silk tape. crimped to
represent Marabout and mixed with strands |
of silk and Jet or soft chenille, the whole |
falling from the upper as well as the lower |
side with exceeding grace and softness OF
effect. The costumes OF velvet and wool are |
as fashionable as ever, and the finest woollen |
material for this purpose Is the twllled cam
els hair, soft as Chuddah wool, and having |
long, silky hairs upon the face. This ma
terial is forty eight inches wide and was for
merly sold for three dollars yard now it
can be purchased for one dollar and half,
and is lovely eitL in combination with vel
vet or woollen brocade. Of these last there
are several new manufactures one Is known
as the Rocco. another as the Sultan cloth,
and another the ''Trocadore.' These are all
woolen fabrics, with silk woven in as de-
sign, and are used less in combination than
IN 9 trimming.
The majority OF woollen costumes are made
short, even the finest, and the woollen bro
cade is used as a facing for cuffs, vest, collar
and pockets md as side lappels for the habit
bodice lust as silk brocade or hand embroid-
cred satin is used for trimming richer text
ures.
Of woollen suiting materials the name is
legion. And they have the merit OF not only
being inexpensive, but genuine in quality
This fact the majority of women are Just
now in position 10 appreciate, for nine out
of every ten are in distress over some old
fashioned poplin, the impracticable color of
which will not admit of combination with
any of the dark modern shades, while the
mixture of silk and wool will not admit of
any process OF dying or transformation. Ex-
cept as a trimming, which can be readily re-
moved, mixed goods ought never to be used,
no matter what the fashion, and the body OF
q dress ought always to be composed of fine
silk wool cotton or velvet.
The Japanese silks and poplins, SO called.
which, of late years, have flooded the AmerI-
can provincial markets. are specimens of the
modern English fashion OF mixing and adul-
terating textile fabrics. They are worthless
mixture of cotton, with little silk charged
with gum to make them stiff and glossy and
have broken the hearts of many Ignorant wo-
men who can afford TO get dress once IN
three years, and who supposed that In this
wish they were getting something equal to
silk at half the price.
American manufactures are winning the
most honorable position abroad as well as at
home for the purity and honesty of their
goods. Our American fiannels, camels hair
cloth, suitings and blankets suTpass foreign
productions, at little more than half the
price, and for two dollars yard a black gros
grain silk of American manufacture can be
procured, whicn Is perfectly pure and equal
in appearance to the French silks sold at five
dollars per yard.
In fine, or what used TO be be called
''opera" ilannels the advance in manufac-
ture has been great The hair stripes, in
stead of being printed are now woven, and
the softness of texture and beauty OF coloring
renders them very fayorite materials ior in
door dresses, wrappers and sacques, us well
as clothing for children.
The newest flannel skirtings are handsome
enough for suits They are IN darkest cloth
shades, with a winsey mixture. which Is very
pretty, and adapts them to children IN suits
as well as their special purpose.
The Chesterfield coat is II novelty for street
wear. 1t is as long as an Ulster, has Jacket
back trimmed with plated band, and Aus
trian knots made Of silk cord, the color of
the cloth, and pendent tassels These coats
are made of camels' hair cloth III all shades
OF mastic, dark brown and gray They have
a double English riding collar and buttons of
vegetable ivory, colored and speckled to
match the cloth.
New hats Of gray or black beaver are very
becoming as well as very stylish. They are
untrimmed, save plumes to match. and are a
modification OF the Gainsborough with IL
square crown, something like The beei-eater
A feather bonnet is Of the usual small,
close shape, with rather flaring brim 1t Is
made of the natural grayish-white downy
feathers taken from the necks OF barn yard
fowls and sewn thickly upon fine net foun-
dation. This also requires very little trim
ming. save bunch OF feathers. the addition
to this being only band Of satin ribbon
placed across the crown and fastened ut the
side with bronzed OF metal ornaments.
The buttons used upon imported dresses
are like Jewels The majority are Of shell,
pearl. silver or gilt. inlaid with metals or
with colored enamels. The execution OF the
work is so fine AMI delicate that many Of
them might be mounted AZ gems.
FASHIONABLE GLOVES
II is curious to note how strictly the law
which governs the more important articles OF
costume applies itself also to the minor ones.
Gloves, for example, have undergone as com
plete a revolution within the past ten years
as the form of dresses aud outside garments
and a comparison between the short. stumpy
one, and the two-buttoned, wrist-trimmed
kid gloves of few years ago with the long,
flexible perfectly plain and perfectly fitting
glove of to-day, would show very much to
the advantage OF the latter.
Ten years ago the intimation IN fashion
paragraph that two buttons were essential to
stylish appearance of a hid glove was repeat
ed with derision, and many small Jokes were
peri Ietrated at their expense. Now gloves
for the street have six buttons, and the latest
style for evening wear eighteen. and no one