The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1878-12-05
oUR EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENCE
LETTER NUNuER TWELVE.
.-u-ree FAKES

Ffom Baden, a riueo aoouJ Two houis
brings us to Strassburg, where we stop
long enough to pay hasly visit to the
cathedral and its wonderful clock. If
one has the ambition to climb up the
45O feet Of the cathedral spire, he will
he rewarded with a particularly fine
view Of a beautiful and fertile country.
The astronomical clock, which is within
the church and is built on the floor, is
remarkable for the number Of things
which IL indicates, and for the number
of figures in motion when the clock
strikes. 10 the city, we notice particu-
larly the great number of awkward
storks, which, being protected by law,
are permitted to build their nests on the
roofs and chimneys of the houses. The
same thing is noticeable in the neigh
boring city Of Bale. Strassburg, which
is large aud well fortified, is the capital
Of the provinces taken from the French
during the late war, and was until re-
Gently nearly on the boundary between
Germany, France aud Switzerland.
We make a brief stop at Bale, noted
as being the residence for time Of
Erastus, the friend Of Luther. In its
cathedral is all that remains Of Hol-
beIn's celebrated frescoes Of "The
Dance of Death"
Our next stopping-place was SehaG-
hausen, at the falls OF the Rhine, which
is one Of the finest cascades in Europe.
Neither in height Of fall nor volume Of
water is il to be compared with Niagara,
and yet it il well worth a visit. The
river is highest in June and July, when
the snow among the Alps il melting.
/ At this time the current is full and
strong, and the water is dashed into foam
as it is hurried over the rocks, and il the
traveller is favored with the light OF
clear, full moon he will carry away with
him a picture which he will often recall
with pleasure. Our hotel here was the
first in which the walters were girls.
They wore a costume which, as n many
places in Switzerland and Germany, is
peculiar to the locality. II consists of a
black velvet bodice, cut square in the
neck, laced at the sides, and fastened
with large silver clasps connected by
long silver chains. The bodice also has
wide white sleeves. The costume is
quite pretty, which am sorry is more
than eau be said Of the girls who wore
| it,
On our way to Lucerne We stop at
I Zurich, which is one of the most -four
ishing Of the Swiss cities, noted for its
manufactures OF silk and cotton, its
world-reuowned Polytechnic Institute,
aud Tor its unrivaled location. Situated
at the foot of Lake Zurich, it has from
nearly every part of the city a superb
view Of the lake, whose green shores are
dotted on each side with villages and
summer hotels, while the snow-capped
Alps rise on the distant background.
The settlement Of the place antedates
/ Roman times, and indeed any authentic
I history. In the museum here is pre-
served the finest known collection OF
relics from the ancient lake dwellers,
who have been as great "a mystery to the
antiquarians as our mound builders,
and about whom next to nothing is az
yet known. In the old armOry the trav-
eler will be shown one Of the numerous
eross-bows which claim the distinction
Of having once belonged to William
Tell, if indeed our cold-blooded histori.
ans do not decide that such a person
never lived.
Leaving Zurich, we soon reach LAX,
Zug, a beautiful little sheet Of wateI
nine miles long by three in breadth
which is deeply set in between greer
mountain slopes, while toward tn,
south towers the lofty Mt. Regi, which
is here visible from the base to the sum
nit.
Shortly after, we reach Lucerne
which is situated at the foot of lake o
the same name, and is favorite resor
Of tourists. A clear, dark stream whicl
issues from the lake aud flows swiftly
through the city, is crossed by fou
bridges, two Of which are old aud verl
quaint. These two are furnished with
roofs and are decorated with paintings
one with one hundred and fifty-fou
pictures representing incidents in th
, lives Of the patron saints of the city
the other with forty-five grotesque pic
lures Of the "Dance of Death" In thes
last death is represented as being presen
in every profession and occupation @
life. or course every one hears th
great organ, which is one of the bes
three or four in Europe. But TO me tn
finest thing in Lueerne is Thorwaldsen'
figure Of the dying lion. This is twenty
eight feet in length, cut in the face Of
q solid, perpendicular rock, and is a mon
s ument to the memory of twenty-six oi
Z ficers and seven hundred and sixty so
= diers OF the Swiss guard who were mas
r sacred in the defense Of the Tuilleries i
a 1892. Its simple and grand proportion
: are wonderfully impressive, and shO'
u the power Of true art. This work is
q study for hours.
From Lucerne a sail Of three hour
takes US to Fluelen, at the opposite en-
Of the lake of the Four Cantons, one {
the most beautiful sails which a.
Switzerland can boast. The whole eS
tent Of the lake is associated with th