The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1878-11-11
FASHION NoTEs.
French Droases-The Panior-A Modern
Lady and Her old.FaShIoned Dress
Bea uhaIna and Lamballe Hats-Old
n-x..I.N a.. r.S,nw

French Dreases-The Pauior-A Modern
Lady and Her 0ld.FaShioned Dress
Bea uhnIna and Lamballe Hats-old
Rrocade In Favor.
New York Evening Post.
The beginning Of u season is always
chaotic in regard to fashions numberless
styles are introduced, and before long a
few are found standing out prominently,
while the rest are consigned to oblivion
or are put away to be worked over again,
and brought out successfully in some moro
practicable shape at a future season. Very
often in the flush OF the openings there is
no possibility Of predicting whether or not
a certain style, long looked for and well
advertised, will be sure Of favor. This is
the case at present with the panier; 1t is
slowly making its way, Is not at oil gra-
ciously received, and Is confined to the
more striking styles Of evening dresses,
and it is used in modified ways on hand
some calling or carriage suits, and Its
adoption is as yet uncertain. So far the
clinging style has its place well assured, and
the winter costumes have scarcely IN adj
ditional wrinkle or an increase OF breadth,
and yet to an observant eye they feel the
outer edge Of that circle made on the calm!
waters O! fashion on which the "fourreau"
dress has so placidly sailed when the stone
was flung into them which was labelled
G%panier." In the street dresses made
short and adopted by the most fastidious,
there is a certain looping-up Of the apron
droueries. or a turning back OF the front OF
the Jacket to the hips, which speaks for It.
s.If: and indoor dresses, which in Parls
are worn longer than ever, to make up Tor
the shortness OF walking costumes, are
drawn up and Topped d great deal higher
thnn last wear, SO that II no longer sees
the real sheath dress. ,.
Among the new evening dresses lately,
worn in Paris, ono called the ola Valliere"
gave the panier effect. 1t was Of light
Soter.crcen silk, with rcvcrs OF silver
cloth on the train the apron front, com
nosed entirely Of tongues Of green and sill
var ribb0n. set amidst rufles OF Nalenci-
cnnes. was entirely surrounded with q
wreath OF roses, which continued up to
lie hips, and then joined the panier sides.
Another dress, worn OH tllesaIne occasion,
wos Of heavy satin.fnishcd silk OF dark
riiron.color, with embossed datlias over
4 In dark red shades; the trimmings con-
sisted of punches OF ostrich tips falling
over II tlounce OF old point. II II shuts
ones ewes, it is easy to c%onjure out oil this
mat such address us was worn at Versailles
IN The DAYS OF Marie AntOinctte, panier
and oil.
and its composite style is admirably taken
Off in the following French description:
"IIer dress is Of pckin stripe, with u long,
wide vest, with pocket flaps IN the Louis
XVI. style; the collar NJ linen cravat
edged with lace "a 10 Colin;' the little car;
rick capes OF the coat are q 10 ltevoluiioh;
the stockings are 'ancicn. regime, EN-
broidered and clocked; the large hat, with
n front called 'caleche,' or gig-top, is q l4
dircctoirc,' and it has q bunch oil wired
feathers on it in 'panache restanration,,
while her front hair is curled q PEmplrc.'
From how many sources are thus drawn
the salient points Of a fashionable French
Among hats in vogue are the Beauhar-
nias, OF black felt with plush finish. large
and wide, the edge surrounded with jet
heads. and broad ribbon made into a bow
SGT in the middle OF the crown; the AM
halle, also Of plush felt, OF adccp red shade,
Inns Inc large ribbon bow on the crown
made half Of red plush, half OF plaid while
black velvet bonnets worn with plaid suits,
have large cockadcs OF plaid plush, or vel
vet ribbon, on the side.
Old. fashioned vests, with deep flap pock:.
cts in front, like those seen in the school
ior Scandal" are Just now the rage, ana
ior these the brocaded silks OF the olden
timc have an especial market; the oldest
carrots and family presses arc ransacEed
FIR the real thing, and ladies' esteem them
selves happy who have had gr~eat-grand-
fathers whose vests can be taken in with q
dnrt here or n seam there, and adjusted to
their delicate figures. Those who have no
orandfathors find the old curiosity shops
81 Paris of much interest, and visit them
with the devotion heretofore given TO their
dressmakers, for II must be chic at any
price. no.
M sensible woman thinks OF indulging in
these vagarics unless she has q carriage, or
]freouents the fashionable saloons OF Parls,
where her oddities will pass muster. The
costumes worn OF the street are always
digniicd and plain perhaps . province,
rs well as in America, extremes are rusileu
into, aud wrong things arc worn at the
wrong time, and Parlsians have a quiet
laugh. over the fOllies done, in fashions
name. Just now street costumes are made
OF tailor's materials which preclude oil
cxtra adornments. Sometimes these may
partake OF n masculine air, owing to the
absence OF drapery, the tailor.made jackets
and flat trimmings, but tho cut can DO
modified, and nobby suits arc only worn
by Young girls or very young women.
Dark India cashmeres are very much
used and are mixed with velvet; In fact,
velvet is profusely employed; one cannot
use too much Of It, and on house dresses,
which in Paris arc worn longer than ever
in order 10 make up for the shortncss Of
outdoor suits, the most elaborate brocaded
yplyets or striped velvet pekin are much
cmployed, In this last such mixtures as
crcnat and rose, black and gold, bronze
and blue are most used, and draped aprons,
rovers. vests, collars and cuffs are made OF
amy OF these STYLES OF velvet, combined
with silk or worsted goods.
The skirts OF carriage dresses are some
times made with the plain nuns skirt,
half.Iong; the front has the tablier drapery,
md The casaque in the directoire style,
opening over n vest Of Mcdonald plaid.
4 velvet costume, half.long, is opened to
show a "suisso" or beadle vest, and below,
Ibis there are hollow plaits to tho feet Of
the same material MS tho vest: tho back OF
the dress has a panier effect given by pIaits
on the sides.
tics NJ small Gilt buttons; q new idea is to
have each ono engraved with q different
design; these dresses are only used for
morning or shopping suits. P%olonaiscs
md princcsse dresses for the house are
muchcd trimmed with lamincc and gaut-
fred lringes, iOt, marahout and chenille
fringes called Gratis tails
Breton lace, the dressiest Of the mex;
pcnsive laccs, is much used, combined