The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1878-12-12
WoOlen Suits.

Short suits of woolen goods trimmed are
the accepted street costume for the win
ter. Now that fashions are settled definite
ly, India cashmeres and clothes of solid
color are found to be most popular.
They are combined with embossed vel
vet, MORE satin, and striped goods that
are partly velvet and partly satin some-
times third fabric is added for facings.
Silk OF inexpensive quality is used for
the foundation skirt, to prevent the Co.'S
tune being two heavy, but the silk is
seldom seen, as the hounces are usually
OF wool. There are, however, stylish
plans of making wool costumes in which
silk plays conspicuouspa part, viz, when
three deep founces are put on the back
part of dresses with apron drapery, and
in the revers polonaises that turn back
f1ounces of silk on the front breadths.
Such polonaises are called the Trianon,
and their jaunty shape is an excellent
design for remodeling the princess
polonaises of last season. To do this the
side seams of the skirt are ripped open
as far up as the hips the fronts are then
cut off short enough to dispense with
any cross-way folds, and turned back in
a broad three. .cornered revers to the
middle seam, leaving the buttoned part
below the waist about as long as plain
cuirass basque. The revers is then COW
cred on the outside with silk, satin or
MORE, and the side seams are sewed
again, leaving all the length possible in
the back to be punched up in bouffant
drapery by means of several tapes. The
lower skirt worn with this polonaise re
quires deep trimming on the front
breadths, such as very narrow kilt-plait-
ing beginning so high that the top
is hidden under the short front of the
polonaise this plating is usually CT
the wool of the polonaise. When some
thing more dressy is required, three
plated flounces of silk cover the front
breadths. This suit has been prettily
made in dark blue ladies' cloth, with
revers and founces of blue silk with
tiny polka dots of white. A vest of the
silk may be laid on the front, or else a
seams under the arms.
The reverse of this, with the plated
founces behind, is also very fashionable;
but care is required that the founces be
very full and we'll Tapped, and that they
do not extend too far forward on the
sides. Ladies who prefer black suits use
amel's-hair and embossed velvet to.
gether, and pipe them with satin. The
vest is of the velvet, and the camel's-
hair basque is double breasted, and but
tons across it. For cloth short suits seal
brown is the favorite color, and is very
handsome with either striped or en-
bossed velvet. For dressy suits the
overskirt is made on the lower one, and
in many parts of the dress is the only
skirt over the foundation ; this does
away with the great weight. The
palmer cloth suits are merely long
round over-skirts and basques that may
be worn with any black silk or velvet
skirt. Young ladies wear garnet cloth
or camel's- s-hair suits that have many
pipings of satin of the same color, or else
the striped velvet forms trimming.
Plated wool founces are often made
more dressy by bias band of satin an
inch wide laid on an inch above the
lower edge of the founce. The gray
suits most worn are of the checked suit
ings or cloth mixtures such as gentle
men have lately worn these are simply
made, and their only ornament is rows
of stitching and large smoked pearl
buttons. A few more dressy gray suits
are enlivened by garniture of maroon
velvet. 1t is. however, matter OF
comment that few somber-colored Co.'S
tunes are worn at present; garnet of q
very dark rich shade, myrtle green,
duck. breast blue, and very red-tinted
seal brown are the colors most used in
suits navy blue and gray have in q
measure lost favor as complete suits,
though often used in combinations =
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