The New York herald., 1878-03-05

would call on the Pscha. We threaded our way to
the palace, which low brick building, like a
barracks The messenger evidently did not expect so
prompt an answer to his summons, as We saw him
running ahead TO tell his lord that we wore coming
coming almost on his heels We passed under CRATE
fcl Of rsos, through open space where
soldiers were lounging about, and into the cool,
open rooms OF tho palace. We were shown
into the reception chamber and ranged on the divan
There a long pause. The Governor was no doubt
enjoying siesia aud had to rub the sleep out OF his
eyes or don bis uniform. Iu time he came, Stout
pleasant looking gray mustached soldier, ~ mis- iu
uniform general We had surprised him, of course,
aud he had 10 dress. He received the General with
grave courtesy, and there the usual exchange oil
compliments and talk about the weather. The Gen.
cral varied tho by expressing his regret
that the bad Nile was the people, and hoping FOR
good Nile. When this was translated, AS the Pacha
only spoke Arabic, he threw up his eyes with
gesture OF devotion, saying, III God wis u,
and may He viii IT," Then the coffee
and the pipes and we set iorth. The Governor said
hs would accompany US IN our walk, which he did.
He directed that the donkeys should be saddled
and they came atter u.s. We then called upon the
German Consul, who waylad Us and begged that we
should honor his house. This oflcer livcd In style
approaching splendor, and when we were servea
with pipes and coffee we noticed that the pipe stems
were OF amber, garnished with diamonds, and the
coffee cups OF the Gnost porcelain In cases oil
silver and gold. These cercmonissever we came back
70 the boat through gust Of sand. The General rode
one Of the Pacha's donktys.
SAILING INTO THE FuRTHEsT REGIONS OF OLD
EGYPT-BUYING AT THE DAzAARs OF Asso-
NAN-sTuDILs OF ETHIOPIAN LrFE-wHERE
THE IsRAELITEs SUFFERED STRUGGLING
THROUGH THE CATARACTs.
CAIRO. Feb. 3. 1878.
Assouan was be end OF jour Dey, the turn
ing point OF Nile trip. Assouan IL the frontier
station OF Old Egypt, on the boundary Of Nuba All
these uays had been pressing toward the Equator,
and began to see the change. Assouan is pretty
town-to my mind prettier than any had seen on the
Nile. 1t Is difficult TO make any standard OF COMPARE
among towns winch are nearly all novels, and SO
lar as scenery is concerned Nature In Egypt is In
grand d phase that sho is always winning. But
there was something about Assousn tnat ut
tracted me. It may have been tho grateful
lreos tEat>% hung over tho Governors pal
ace-you see l call every governors house
a palace-or II may have been the Governor himself
This gentleman was Nubian-soacoal black-a tall,
well formed, handsome man, IN the latest Parisan
Dress Our eyes bad been feasttng tor 30 long upon
In various degrees OF nakedncss and rags that
this real presence Of embodied clothes
kid gloves cashmere and cloth, with tho fez just tip
plug tho left car-was sensation. II was like
breath from tho boulsvards, although our Governor
seemed uneasy in his clothes and evidently feared
they would be soiied. These two early impressions
tho trees and tho garments-ihrew glamour ovef
Assouan, aud now, IN writing, with the memories OF
the trip floating before me, hnc myself dwelling
with comfort upon this pleasant frontier Nubian town.
THE NUBIAN FRONTIER.
or Assouan In the way Of useful information II is
sufficient TO say that It is town oil 900 Inhabitants,
$50 miles south of Cairo, 73O south OF tho Medi.er
ranean. II used TO be supposed that the town lay
directly under the Equator. In the ancient days
Assouan was o quarry and here were found tho
stones which became obelisks, temples and tombs.
Assouan's history is associated more with
Arabian fhan Egyptian history. When Islam
marching to conquer the world the Sara
Gems made q town here ana an outpost.
When this glory departed Assouan became Ike
most frontier towns In the wild days of men, the
scene OF constant striies and schisms between the
Nuban and Egyptian. There is place called tao Place
OF Martyrs, Moslem martyrs, and mosque 500 years
old and many Turkish inscriptions:-I bear witness
that there Is no God but God; that be has no rival,
and that Mohammed IS the prophet Of God" We did
interested in knowing that Il was ut Assouan that
Juvenal lived In banishment. There was no house
pointed out as Juvenaps house, and no tree Juve-
NAILS tree All Of which showed two things--iamcnt.
Bile lack of enterprise the part OF Assou and that
the priests took interest Ia Juvenas cha racter
deeds
THE PHILOSOPHY OF PRESENTS.
In these days Assouun Aourishes ofthe depots
OF the desert trade. Here the caravans come from
Ethiopia and you find traces OF desert merchandise
among the bazaars. We visited tho bazaar Mrs. Grant
and the writer doing some shopping aud Hassan going
ahead with his stick, mmandng all loyal subjects OF
tho Khedive to fall back and make way for the pi.
grims. There were no bones and NO antiquities tor
sale at Assouan, fact that note with gratitude.
But there was honest merchandise OF humble sort
ostrich featners ivory, gum arabic SKINS ebony clubs
silver rings, lances and crockery. II was the rumor
OF ostrich feathers carried to the bazar
soon We were surrounded by crowd waving the plumes
IN our faces The Marquis in his quiet, crcumspect
way had purchased Tor mo some Egyptian earthen-
ware with which intend to make u reputation as
connolsscur the arts when return to America, II
1t Is not broken "rhis," said the Marquis, as he
turned the vases around and around that l might
admire them, 'This is the best thing for presents to
yeur friends. You see 1t don't cost too much, and
people will ssy they hnvo what else has, and
that Is the way" The Marquis 10 my friend and o
prudent man and does not like to speno money,
and on his special requirement, namely tho study Of
human nature, knows million times more than
do But told tho Marquis that all my friends were
pious people who feared the Lord, and that would
tako them home crucinxes and rosaries. 1 had
calculated that could buy rosares and crosses
IN Jerusalem, made out OF the sacred olive tree,
for about u franc apiece-that could havc them
blessed by the Pope when camo to Romc and that
my friends would esteem them more than ANYTHING
else, and that BY expenditure Of about 500 could
win great fame In New YORK, and perhaps become
candidate for Congress in the lower district Tho
Marquis is disposed to think that people at home
would like something useful, and to beads and
crosses he has philosophical views which Will not
repent lest might do him injustce But SAID that
in America people did not want useful presents, but
something excite the highest and holest feelings OF
and