, 1878-05-22
A LEtiHORN HAT.

uloilllllp. Liz DtShcI plldceou otoOu aU
the door in the narrow noisy street be-
low, but Mr.. White had already gone to
his Office, Annie pleaded headache, and
the children had their allotted tasks
with the German governess to accom-
plish. I must either remain within doors
during the hot hours of the day or 60
out alone. l decided on the latter
course.
81 am to old to require any chaperon,"
l said, and glanced in the mirror
There / beheld a not unpleasing
image of little woman attired in gray,
with a silvery veil over her plain face,
in the act of fitting on pair of quite
infntiesimal gray gloves. kissed my
good Annie and the children, as if
l was going on long and perilous voy-
age, and departed in the basket phaeton.
What a new world was that all about
me 1t was the city of Leghorn, with
its tall houses, rendered dingy by sea
damp, and wide white squares, the
atmosphere redolent of tar the quays
thronged with shipping, the clumsy fun
nels of Oriental Steamships relieved by
the lighter tracery of interlacing masts
against the sky, I like ships; in their
boundless suggestiveness they resemble
wishes, hopes, ever coming and going on
some fresh errand.
The phaeton ratified through the main
thoroughfare, once Via Grande, and
now rebaptized, after the manner of all
italian cities, in the name of Victor
Emanuel. l noticed with the interest
of stranger groups Of bronzed sailors !;
the untidy Leghorn woman with trailing
gown, and tapping handkerchief tied
over their frowsy head; the brilliant
uniform of an occasional officer strolling
languidly to his cafe.
The Sea Gate was reached, and
the white road which threads its way
beside the Mediterranean to the beauti-
full suburb of the Ardenza The sea-
breeze waited to me delicious GOODNESS !;
the hedges of evergreens and oleanders
in masses of rose bloom mingled rich
odors the stunted trees dropped their
feathery foliage laden with gray dust.
| gazed out over the sea, which sparkled
like sapphire, with the lighthouses SO
bright at night, now pallid in the morn
ing which no longer had need of them,
and the sails glitteting with an exquisite
silvery whiteness on the horizon. l
glanced down the white road as it
curved along the strand, bordered by its
feathery trees and oleanders, its gardens,
hotels, and villas stretching to the Mar
emma, and the coast l might never ex-
plore.
''This is the most beautiful shore in
the world, and the old Romans knew
it." l soliloquized; and just then the
phaeton paused.
Ny destination was the bath. Again
the charm of novelty delighted me, for
it was my first summer with Annies
household. Bsthing at Livorno is made
pastime, recreation, instead of a
serious business | walked out on a
pier which terminated in a round space
shielded by tent from the suns rays,
and then the smiling old bath woman,
in Tapping straw hat, conducted me
down a passage, bordered on either side
with the little tents with green doors,
to my destination. Once consigned to
the "baracca," / was free to remain in
the tiny house, with its roof Of mating
and walls Of stripped canvass, where the
water rippled in of transparently green
hue, or to part the curtains and issue
forth boldly as a swimmer | decided
to remain secluded in my crystal bath,
as | was alone, like mermaid in cave
was startled by the curtains being
separated from without, and the appear
ance of mans head, with long sandy
beard. The head advanced such evident
intention of tall body's following that
| uttered faint scream of alarm, when
the intruder retreated hastily with n
muttered "Beg Pardon
| received the apology with such dig
nifty as is possible to a very small lady in
flannel bathing suit, hanging to a rope
to avoid drowning in deep water, and
with her head done up in an oil-skin cap
"Some stupid Englishman" l said
pettishly.
The hour was too early for many oc-
cupants of the large tent, and when l
emerged from my bath drew a chair
near the railing, to again gaze out over