New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1878-02-13
LIFE AND HABITS ABROAD.
by BAYARD TAYLOR.
ii.
COMMON LIFE IN SPAIN.


..ne IN an accidental way and is of rather I'M
psuaI character When was in London. III Octo-
her 1852 under orders from TIE TRIBUNE TO meet
Commodore Perrys Expedition to Japan and emma,
Tho following March, l found that the overland
tourney mi Qht be so utilized as to allow month
in Snan and two months in India. ] was somewhat
nrenared for the former country by my trip across
Mexico nearly three years before and by moGer-
atc knowledge of the language, dating from the
boyish days when was accustomed to practise my
Spanish lessons upon ono Mexican and two Cnoah
felow-pupils. The tbrough-ticket to lndla maze
Gibraltar my inevitable starting-point, and thus
was only able to travel IN the province of Andausa,
without passing north of the Sierra Mcrcna. There
were no railways in SPAN at that time, and only
diligence Tor stage) lines on the main highways be-
tween large cities. All other journeys must DE FADE
OIL horseback.
In lime. 1867, visited Spain second time. en-
teriug the country from the opposite corner. l
crossed H. eastern end of the Pyrenees from France
into Catalonia and returned from Barcelona by way
of the little republic of Andorra into France again
All OF Spain which lies between these two mos!
widely separated provinces-Aragon. CASTLE, Leon
Galicia Estremadura-I have never seen. But pre-
csely AndalnsIa and Catalonia represent the whole
range OF Spanish life and character In the former
province the Moorish element is, if not predom-
ancient yisigothic blood exists in its greatest
purity and gives its stamp to the life of the people
In the mixture of Gothic, Saracenc and Celtic
races out of which Spain has grown. the hrst OF
the three has always supplied the restless conquer
ing force; vet the Spaniards with singular iucon-
sistency claim to be a Lam race even while boast
ing of their Gothic blood The truth is, they arc
more nearly allied to the Piedmontese in Italy; to
the East-Prussians; to the Swedes, Danes and Nor
man English. than to any Romanlc race. Their
habits nevertheless, are more Oriental than Euro
pean and without perceivng this apparent contra
dict1on, they cannot be correctly understood as
people.
Since ON both occasions / visited Spain without
asngle letter of introduction, and travelled chiefly
OIL horseback e happens that know nothing what
ever of the WAYS of living common to the middle
and higher classes of society. lean only report con-
corning the domestic habits of the common people,
the great bulk of the population. There was one
custom, indeed prevalent among the better class,
which had an opportunity of learning IN SeVille
and Granada-but should be doubtful whether 1t
still exists 1t is of those ancient, almost poetlc
habits Of society, which disappear with the increase
of travel 1t occurred to several times on enter
ing a cafe in eieher of the two cities have men
toned that, on calling the waiter to pay HIM for
the chocolate or ice or whatever else might have
ordered, he replied: 1T is paid already. seior."
But who paid it 2" was my natural question. The
walters reply was invariably, 81 don't know who
il was" If / then said, " Show me which gentleman
il was he always answered, He has gone away
Ii was simply an ancient custom, which suggests
the refined and noble hospitality of the Arab race
Some native gentleman had perceived that was
foreigner, and had himself paid my bill as well
come to Spain. In order that might feel no obi
CATION was not allowed to know him, and the
waiter answered me in accordance with THIS ancient
and sacred rule. have never found anywhere else
In the world, a courtesy so generous and delicate.
Tie Oriental habit of saying, MY house is
YOURS" or at your disposal" is retained ID Spain;
and of course it must not be taken too literally
So is the universal custom among the people, high
and low of never sitting down to eat without IN
ylting ali who may be accidentally present TO par
take of the cheer. The conventional answer Is
"Many thanks; may II be good provision for you"
yet if any one, through Ignorance or pressing
need should accept, ne wOud certainly receive BIS
share In travelling from Mexico to Vera Cruz by
stage a good many years ago. found 1t almost I'M
possible to pay for meal. Some one of the native
passengers was sure 10 have settled III advance with
the landlord for the breakfast OF dinner OF the
whole company This is not a mere matter of os-
tentation with the Spanish people, or they would
not take such painsSo conceal their hospitality. 1t
relig iOus duty.
In strict connection Herewith, another custom
prevails which first learned in Andalusia had
hired horse in Granada, for the journey to
Gibraltar by way of Malaga and Ronda, and this
included second horse, with mozo-groon, guide,
companion and servant, in one. | was fortunate
in having gay, hght-hearted, honest fellow, who
shortened the way for whenever the rough
bridle-path wide enough for two 90 ride abreast
e. 4 God
selves and the horses, Jose went into the kitchen
and helped prepare the meal; then, when all was
ready he washed his hands, cOolly took seat at
the table and helped himself TO the omelette and
stewed kid was rather surprised. but said nothing.
In the evening the same thing happened again (;
and finally on the third day, Jose, having become
free and confidential towards me, said g You are
not like the Engshmen. Senior. have travelled
with them, and they won't allow me to eat with
them, according ito our Spanish custom Well,
when that happens, don't 90 into the kitchen, ex-
cept for myself, and they don't fare as well as
yon do, l can tell you" He was right; 1t Is the
ordinary habit of the country and must say that
not only Jose but all other attendants ltemployed
in Spain conducted themselves Ike gentlemen as
my companions at meals.
This and bother similar customs evidently account
for the democratic manners of the Spaniards. Ex-
cent the Arabs, do not think there is more Dig
nifed and self-possessed race OF men in the world
A timid or embarrassed Spauard is phenomenon.
The man or woman lowest in the social scale-even
the beggar in the streets-will talk with Grandee
OF the blue blood or the King himself, not only
without cringing, but without apparent confusion
of manner. One great charm of travel IN Spain Is
the circumstance that the traveller may feel himself
perfectly free to speak 10 every one whom he meets,
sure that civil remark Will bring civil answer
and that an honest genial manner will lead 10 imme-