The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1878-12-12

OUR EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENCE.


W II hU AOf Ian NOhhbSEUNDbhUE
LETTER NUamER rHIRrEEN.
NAPLES.
Leaving Geneva by the morning train,
We 20 by way OF Mt Cents tunnel, Turin,
Genoa, Pisa, and Civita Vechia, to
Rome without stopping. Remaining
here long enough to make railroad con-
neetions, We are on board the train for
Naples, which We reach early in the
morning, just forty-seven hours after
leaving Geneva. Our first view Of the
Mediterranean is by moonlight at
Genoa, and for several hours we are in
constant sight Of it. The early morning
finds US on the lookout for the leaning
tower at Pisa, which we do not see from
the train, but have seen before. Until
noon, when we reach Rome, we are
much Of the time on the shore of the sea.
We pass in plain sight of the island of
Elba, and perhaps see the dim outlines
Of Corsica IN the far distance. Beyond
Rome We are away from the sea, and
passing through places familiar to every
classical student. OF the many, we eau
only mention Capua, which was the
winter quarters Of Hannibal, and where
the insurrection Of the gladiators under
Sparticus commenced. The speech Of
Sparticus TO the gladiators, so dear to
every school-boy's heart, came back to
me, aud looked about for some gladia-
tor with short sword, helmet and shield,
but saw only full-rigged Italian officer
struttiug about the depot. A little
later, while the freshness Of early morn
ing yet hung upon the vineyards aud
orange groves Of this almost tropical
climate, we reached Naples, the light of
Italy, its largest city, aud. the paradise
Of travellers. Naples has a population
Of 400, 900, and is most delightfully."- situ-
ated on the bay Of thesame name whose
wonderful beauty has been recognized
for nearly three thousand years.
On our long ride along thequay to our
hotel, we realize that we are indeed in a
strange city and in the midst Of a people
aud productions different from any We
have before known. In the markets,
which seemed to be all only pieces Of
canvas to keep Off the sun, were
peaches, grapes, oranges, lemons, aloes
and nectarines from Sorrento, just across
the bay, pomegranates, olives, figs, and
several other fruits Of which even the
names are unknown to US. Bare-footed
men and women, and half-dressed or en-
tirely nude children are to be seen
everywhere. In the two miles along
the quay an artist could pick out dozen
"Neapolitan Fisher Boys" while men
clothed only in two garments stretch
out at full length upon the stone pave
ments and sleep.
All kinds Of work are carried on in the
street in front OF the houses. BARRIERS,
shoe-makers, ,harness-makers and clothes
dealers often have everything out on the
sidewalk. Women cook, wash and iron,
care for their babies, sew, knit, smok 2
and DO all kinds Of household work on
the street. Two or three times we even
saw them going through the children's
heads hunting game with a fine-tOothed
comb. In places there were large yards
in which strips Of macaroni ten feet
long, hanging over poles, were drying
in the open air, exposed to whatever Of
dirt the breezes Of heaven might bring
them from the street.
Everything about US shows that we
are among a strange kind Of people, and
in southern climate. The narrow
streets aud high houses, with balcony
in front Of each window, the braying Of
the omnipresent donkey, the ceaseless
clatter Of wheels and swapping Of whips,
the harsh screaming of the peddlers,
the undaunted impudence OF beggars,
guides, and carriage drivers, all combine
to give the traveller something new at
every turn.
The national characteristic Of the in-
habitants Of.Naples, as far as they have
any, has always been, and is now, love
Of the enjoyment of the present and an
entire disregard of the wants Of the
future. OF all the Italians, the NeOpOli-
tans are the happiest and the poorest,
the LATEST and the dirtiest, and the least
given to mourning the misfOrtunes Of
the past, or the wants Of the future. The
bare-legged lazzaroni, with an empty
stomach and not single sOidO in his
pocket, or any prospect of his getting
one, will curl up in some warm corner
and 90 to sleep as contentedly as though
he were a Millionaire.
Probably no finer or more varied view
is to be had in all Italy than from the
Carmadoli, former monastary, on
lofty hill at the back of the city. 1t in
cludes all of the matehless bay Of Naples,
with its numerous islands, much Of the
city below, on the left, Mt. Vesuvius,
with its vine-cOvered base, and miles Of
fertile plain dotted with numerous vii
lages, while in the opposite direction
stretches the open sea. The wonderful
beauty Of the situation aud its surround
ings has given rise to the Italian saying,