Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1878-12-05
EUROPEAN LETTER.
NAPLES.
From our own Correspondent,

Lowing 0cuct8 ny the morning
train We go by way OF Mt. Gents tun.
mel, Turin, Genoa, Pisa, and Civita
Vechh, to Rome without STOPPING.
Remaining here long enough to make
railrosd connections we are on board
the train for Naples, which we reach
early % the morning, just forty.seven
hours ,fter leaving Geneva. Orr first
view q the Mediterranean is by moon
light al Genoa and for several hours
we are in constant sight of it. The
early morning finds US on the lookout
for thu leaning tower at Pisa, which
we dc not see from the train but have
seenlbefore. Until noon, when we
reach Rene, we are much of the time
on thu shore of the sea. We pass in
plain sight of the island OF Elba, and
PERHAPS see the dim outline of Cor
scia il the far distance. Beyond
lsomewe are away from the sea and
passin: through places familiar to ev-
cry Classical student. OF the many
we Cal mention Capua, which was
the wiiter quarters OF Hannibal, and
where the instruction OF the gladia-
tors under Spartacns commenced
The speech Of Spartacus to the gladi.
ators, SO dear to every schoolboy's
hear, came back to me, and l looked
about for some gladiator with short
sworl, helmet and shield, but saw
only q vull rugged Italian officer strut
ting abus the depot A little later,
while thefreshness and beauty of the
early mrning yet hung upon the
vineyard and orange groves of this
almost topical climate, we reach Ma.
Piles, tn light of Italy, its largest city
and theparadise of travellers. Naples
has population of 100000 and is
most Delightfully."- situated on the bay
of the anne name whose wonderful
beautyhas been recognized for near
ly 3,0Oyears.
On ar long ride along the quay
to ourhotel, we realize that we are
indeeoin a strange city, and in the
midst,f people and productions
differot from any we have before
know. In the markets, which seem
to be j only pieces Of Canvass to
keep off the sun, were peaches,
grape, oranges. aloes and nectarines
from Sorrento just across the bay,
pome,ranites, olives, figs and several
otherfruits of which even the names
are unknown to US. Barefooted men
and 7omen and halt dressed or en-.
tirel, nude children are to be seen
everywhere. Ia the two miles along
the tuay an artist could pick out q
doza "Neapolitan Fisher Boys"
whis men clothed only in two gar.
mems stretch out at full length on
the pavement and sleep.
al kinds of work is carried on in
the treet in front of the houses.
Barriers, shoemskers, harness makers
and ,lothes dealers often have every
thin, out on the sidewalk. Women
cook wash and iron, care for their
babis, sew, knit, smoke, and do all
kinG of household work on the
streets. Two or three times we even
saw them going through their chill
drens heads and hunting game with
fin, tooth comb. In places there
W ere large yards in which strips OF
macconi ten feet long, hanging
overpoles and drying in open air.
eypoed to whatever of dirt the
breeNs of heaven might bring them
from he street.
Esgything about US elbows that
we ars among a strange kind of peo-
pie anl in southern climate. The
narrow streets and high houses,
with abalcony in front of each win
dow, the braying of the omnipresent
donkey the ceaseless clatter OF
wheelsa and swapping of whips, the
harsh Streaming of peddlers, the IN.
daunted impudenoe of beggsrs,
gridea ard carriage drivers, all com.
bine to give the traveller something
new ut every turn.
The NATIONAL characteristic of the
inhabitants of Naples, as far as they
have airy, has always been and is
now love of the enjoyment of the
present and en- entire disregard oil
the wants of the future. Of ell the
Italians the Neapoitans ere the hap.
piest aud the poorest, the fastest and
dirtiest and the least gwen 20 mourn.
ing the misfortunes of the past OF
she wants of the future. The bare.
legged !azzaroni with an empty
stomach and not single soldo in bis
pocket or any prospect OF getting
one, will curl up in some warm cor.
ner and 90 TO sleep as contentedIy
as though he was millionaire.
Probably no finer or more varied
view is to be bad in all Italy than from
the Carmadoli, former monastery,
on lofty hill back of the city. 1t in.
cludes ell Of the matchless bay oil
Naples with It's numerous islands
much of tho city below, on the left
Mt. Vesuvius with its vine covered