The Portland daily press., 1878-06-06
IHarper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
Gentlemen's Clothing

Few changes are noted in the English style
Of dress now adopted by gentlemen. FASH
ionabe tailors make the coats of all suits short
er than they have been worn for several sea-
sons; trousers are rot SO loose in the legs as
those lately worn.
The full-dress suit for evening and for day
receptions has a coat and vest of west of Eng
land cloth, jet black, and of the 'dead finish'
that is entirely without lustre. The swallow
tail coat is tightly shortened, and rolls very low
in front; the front of the vest also rolls low to
match the coat. The pantal0ons are of doe
skin of the same shade of black as the coat
and vest.
The semi-dress suit for church. visiting, and
afternoon wear has Prince Albert frock coat
of black diagonal or the fine corkscrew weav-
ing. The vest is of the same cloth as the coat,
and is cut single-breasted. By way of variety
and for dressy occasions in midsummer white
double breasted vest is used instead; this laps
in front, and merely white edge like fold
shows when the coat is buttoned above it. The
pantaloous have neat stripes of medium colors,
neither very light nor very dark. Brown,
beige, or gray stripes ara mixed with black.
Plaid trousers are not worn as part OF this
suit.
For business travelling suits one pattern of
plaided Scotch goods is used for the entire suit.
Sacks and fitted coats are both stylish for these.
Some of the sacks are fastened by three but
tons, while others button only one button and
fall open. The short fitted coats may also be
c osely butt )ned down the front, or else only
fastened by two buttons. Tan, brown, and
gray are the col0rs me 1t uSed.
Summer overcoats are principally sack.
shaped, and like all other coats, they are q
trifie shorter. The materials are diagonals and
Meltons of dark color. For travelling are i'm
ported busters of gray English mohair or of
Panama cloth, or else checked gray with black;
these are long sacks, with the Ulster belt con-
fined to the back instead of passing around
the waist.
three thIcknesse3 of linen without pleats,
though sometimes ornamental down the edge
with a clust 9r of very small tucks, or else of
fine cords stitched in. Colored shirts are per-
Gales with whito ground, on which is stamped
avery delicat3 and quaint figure in blue, brown
black or ,arlet such as rows of dots, coral
branches, zigzag dashes, or else large cross.
bars of single threads of color. Small spots
and hair stripes are always in good taste.
Whips, anchors, bits and horse-shoes are also
stamped on percale. Linen does not take the
colored printing as well as the cotton of per-
Gale.
Straight standing collars almost like the old
fashioned garrote collar are worn again. These
do not have the fronts turned over in points,
but are square-cornered, and worn to meet,
sometimes the edges are quite far apart, ex-
posing the throat; the first is considered most
stylish. The English collar, with the fronts
| D6QL DdCh dS IL UrOhOu 10 stl1l III tOSuOs 1<iucn
cuffs are made to meet instead of tapping, and
are fastened by linked sleeve buttons. The
collars are round, or else square like the new
collars.
The Balbriggan half-hose most popular this
season have very fine stripes of color around the
white instep, with solid soles. Instead of the
cardinal and dark blue socks of last summer,
there is preference for drab, brown, or black
or else the merest thread stripe of red or blue.
The Derby ribbed Balbriggans are handsome
to;d ayohr rod
cream-color or brown grounds. Silk socks are
striped around and embroidered. Fine isle
thread socks have colored stripes.
For nice underwear Balbriggan vests are
and brown shades. These cost SO a suit Bal.
briggan socks to match these suits are imported
for $1S dozen.
Narrow hens, on which are coored figures,
| are on the large linen handkerchiefs used by
| gentlemen. Something unique IN color and
| design like the peculiar patterns for scarfs, is
| selected for these borders The hems are hem-
stitched and there is wider border Of color in
| side the hem. White silk handkerchiefs have
| wide hens hemstitched, and for ornament q
| large colored initial or monogram embroidered
with silks There are also colored borders on
| the hens of silk handkerchiefs.
| Kid gloves are of beige or mastic gray shades,
| with three wide rows of stitching of the shade
OF the kid on the back. They are long enough
to require two buttons on the wrists. The grey
lsle-thread gloves are shorter and fastened by
| one button.
The low Oxford ties Of calf-skin are the shoes
for street wear in summer. They are made
with rather narrower toes than those lately
worn, and broad low heels There are also
buttoned CATERS with kid tops for ordinary
wear. For dress occasions are patent leather
CATERS with black cloth tops. An attempt has
been made to introduce sharp-ponted toes, but
these crowd the foot painfully and have not
met with favor.
The dress hats worn by gentlemen are OF dark
grey cashmere made on q willow BODY shat Is
very porous and light The crown Is sngntly
bell-shaped aud is nearly seven inCnes ueepi tne
brim has round English curl. These hats are
of very fine quality, yet cost only So. Undress
hats are of the same gray shades, made over a
muslin frame; they are in Derby shapes, with
English rolled brim. Some oil THESE DERBY M mats
have "A At tops to the crown, while Others have
the familiar round top. Price $4 80 to IS.
Soft gray beaver hats are put up in small com.
pass in box, and may be put in the overcoai