The Canton advocate. [volume] (Canton, D.T. [S.D.]) 1877-1897, 1878-04-02
Latest Fashions.

care 10 acKnOWleuge.-N. I. WCtd.
Latest Fashions.
The short kilt suit for the street is at
last an accomplished fact. This costume
is a stylish example of the convenient
short skirt that the Bazaar has always ad-
vocated as a walking dress, and consists
throug heut of features that are in great
favor at present, viz, the cutaway jack
ct, the vest, the scarf, and plated kilt
shirt with yoke. The materials most
used for such dresses are the useful de
beges, spring woolens of all qualities and
of solid colors, or in bourette patterns, or
else in small checks. Lady's cloth from
cream color through drab shades to dark
green, invisible blue, and black; is
especially popular for such suits. Very
young girls will wear Scotch plaids of
dark colors for spring, and for seaside or
mountain dresses during the summer.
The fashion of these dresses is excellent
for travelling suits, as there is little
drapery about them to be rumpled, and
they remain trim and neat looking
throughout a long journey. Some wash
goods suits are made in this way, and it
IS claimed that they are not troublesome
to iron. Gray, brown and blue linen,
dark brown or blue cambrics, and the
smau-checked percales are chosen for
such suits.
The kilt skirt is especially commended
because it is short enough to escape the
ground; and in order to hang we'll and
gracefully it must do this, and be quite
even all around the bottom. Nothing is
more awkward appearing than a long
kilt skirt with its plaits broken out of
line by being caught up in the hand of
the wearer as she crosses muddy places.
The pattern should be cut the proper
length, viz, from hips to the instep, al.
lowing about two inches to face upward
at the bottom; it should then be laid on
the cloth, and the seams joining the
breadths should be hidden under the
plaits. The plaits at the back are laid
much thicker than those in front and on
the sides, and there is broad box plat
in front. The best made wooden kits
have facing of thin crinoline muslin a
quarter of yard deep around the bot
tom, and the dress material is turned up
on this about two inches in depth, and
hemmed there with blind stitches that
do not reach through to the outside.
Above the orinoline facing and at inter-
walls thence to the yoke are four rows OF
tape extending around the skirt, and
holding the plaits nplace. These plaits
are intended to appear straight from the
yoke down, but they really are slightly
enlarged toward the bottom, though
not sufficiently to fare conspicuous
ly. Each plat should be lightly fas-
tened on the wrong side of each
row of tape, and should be pressed
very fatty. The top of the plaits is
sewed to the yoke, and the seam faced
with tape. The yoke has seam in
front. fits smoothly over the hips, should
be lined with strong silesia, and buttoned
by three.buttons; a belt may be added it
necessary. If ladies are very slight, and
wish to enlarge the appearance OF the
hips, they can continue the kilt pleating
to the belt, and dispense with the yoke.
The reverse of this is, however, more
usually the case. The scarf is long,
straight piece of the material cut either
across the goods, or else, if more con-
venient, lengthwise from the piece. 1t
is passed closely around the figure be,
tween the knees and hips-it will need
to be differently placed for different fig
ures-and must be tight enough to aP-
pear to draw in the kilt slightly. 1t is
lower on the left side, where it begins
and ends and ascends to the right side,
where the middle Of the scarf is placed ;
it is not necessary to sew it to the Kilt,
except on the left side where it is lowest,
and on the highest point on the right.
The large, long-looped bow is made OF the
scarf material doubled and sewed togeth..
er on the wrong side. For ladies OF
medium size about four and a half
breadths of double-width goods are put
in s kilt skirt; the scarf is then about
five-eighths of yard wide. go.
The cut-away jacket and vest need lit
tie description, as such garments have
already become familiar to our readers.
The back of the Jacket has short seams
from the armhole, with lappets in those
below the waist, and pockets placed
across the tail of the jacket, not at the
waist line. The edges of the garment
are merely stitched in parallel rows;
from three to six rows are used. The
vest is sewed in the under-arm seams;
but as this jacket is very suitable for a
wrap to be worn with any dress, most
ladies' keep the vest separate, and merely
add strap or belt Of cambria across the
hack, This allows greater variety also,
as white, gray, cream:color, or else
striped vests may be used instead OF that
like the jacket. Black, brown, or white
horn horn buttons are preferred for these
suits; these have eyes through the mid d
die, are very substantial, and cost 70
cents dozen.
The graceful pompadour Prlncesse
dress is useful design tor LADIES VINO
4. -. ,>~ioo Al IL IL vary aims