The New York herald., 1878-12-30
General Grants Visit to
Madrid.
CHANGES IN THE CAPITAL.
Reconections Of the Republic Un-
der Castelar,
CEREMONIES AND ENTERTAINMENTS
Evils of the Gambling Spirit
in Spain.

MADRID, Nov. Is. 1873
General Grants visit to Madrid may To summed
up briefly so far the festivities and ceremonies
were concerned. James Russell Lowell. Min
lister. met him at the station. when the General
welcomed on behalf Of the King by the civil authori
ties and especially by Colonel Noel Spanish officer
Of distinction. who detailed to attend him. The
King had not arrived. but in the north visiting
Espartero and reviewing his conscrpts. Mr.. Lowell
gave the General dinner and reception, where
ncn OF all parties to pay their respects to the
ex-President. 1t seemed like truce in the heat Of
spanish politics to Canovas and CASTELAR, in Mr..
Lowells saloons in long and friendly but
presume there is life behind the in Spanish
politics as in and that patriots and national
enemies may talk opera cakes and ale There
. dinner at the Presidency Of the Coun-
I'll, the only State dinner given since the
poor Queen died. There were arsenals to
be inspected and picture galleries. the royal
palace and the royal stables There long walks
about Madrid and long talks with Mr.. Lowell whom
General Grant had never met before, but for whom
he conceived sincere attachment and esteem. There
calls from all manner Of public men, especially
from Captain General Jovellar, with whom the Gen
eral had satisfying talks about Cuba and from
CASTELAR,, whom the General was most anxious to
see. CASTELAR, had been friendly to the North in
dent Of the Republic and the General anxious to
do him honor He contemplated dinner to Cas-
telar. But Spanish politics is full of torpedoes, and
the General was in some sort guest of the nation
and 1t was feared that the dinner might be
strued into republican Unconstitutional inter-
ference in other peoples affairs-and 1t was aban-
doned.
CHANGES IN MADRID.
There excursions to Toledo and to the Escuria
ma ha said data thorf linn
What impressed your correspondent in Madrid were
the changes that had taken place since his former
visit five years ago. 1t seemed to have become trans
formed from Spanish into French town. New
stores had sprung up on the Alcala. and hotels
advised You that they gave meat and entertainment
in the French fashion. Street railways traverse
narrow highways. and it seemed dissertation almost
to hear jangng bells in the drowsy old alleys along
which used to pad my way to the street OF Isabel
the Catholic to hear from sicklee Adee what had
happened to Spain during the night. For poor Spain
was then in interesting condition and the strsnges
births were then coming to light And when we had
nothing else to do used to go out and join the
people when they went to demonstrate before the
public ofhces-generally before the palace Of the
Interior the Puerta del SOL where there was room
to shout and hustle and carry our banners and
where. moreover. Pi Margsll in power. ri.
being friend Of the people. was sure to give .
welcome ana 70 De patent ana we SnOuld have
bread and work. Sometimes used to go down to
tho Cortes and demonstrate in favor Of more radical
measures and more speed In making the Republic and
wait until CASTELAR, and Salmeron and Garrdo came
out that might hail them friends of liberty and
savors Of Spain. ri was arrested the other day as
revoutionist, and Garrido is in exile. and Castelar,
almost alone among republicans. is tolerated in the
Cortes because Of his marvellous eloquence, and be-
cause Canovas said when he sent word to the gov
ernment agents not to oppose his return "A Spanish
Cortes would be nothing without Emilio Castelar,.
And DO in i've the world wags its curious
MEMORIES SPANISH MADRID.
In those days Madrid was a Spanish town and IL
pleasant to walk in the streets and see the
quaint, picturesque life to Saxon eyes; to see
the varied costumes of the provinces to the odd
cries. to visit the cafes with their curious drinks of
almond and pomegranate and orange. temperate and
tasteless, and damsels and wrinLled women
gorging ices and grave men smoking cigarettes
Pleasant was the Prado when the evening shadows
and all Madrid out to take the air
and zee the wonderful beauty of the Skies which
have beauty of their in this captivating SPAIN
Pleasant it to stroll up and down the Prado and
the madens, with wells and mantilas grouped in
couples. with demure. gazelleke eyes that looked at
you shyly. and IL they spoke at all it with q
glance with the FAM which, in tho hand of Span
ish lady. is an organ of speech Pleasant it to
see the nurses in Andausian peasant costumes, their
brown faces and ripe. bonny bosoms which children
were draining ranged in chairs and Watching tho
swaying world in unconscious, innocent wonder.
Pleasant were the dancing groups which you
met in the public squares the denser parts of tho
town, dancing their slow measured step to the music
of guitar and the time of the castanet. And the
bull fighters Sunday afternooni Was anything
pleasant than to stroll up the Alcala and study
the hurrying crowd hurrying on to the to see
the bulls, to be there In time for the procession
Maidens. duchesses. beggars. statesmen, priests
workingmen and soldiers parents and their children
are hurTying to the ring Pleasant the even
ings at Cafe Fornos. with old DR.. Mackcchan, the
Oldest American resident in Madrid, at the head of
the table, and telling his recolloctons of generation
of spanish life. especially his recolcctions of the
dynasty of American Ministers under whom he had
served. from Barringcr to Cushing. and how he
had seen soue fight his duel. and how lie hated
certain secretary OF legation. have never. by the
way, expatriated American who did not have
some cherished hatred which he nourishod and
worshipped-as the Hindoos do idols of evil i'm
portland generally 1t another American. But
there kindcr fricndlier soul than the
old Doctor. and nothing pleased him more than to
celebrate the Fourth of July. Pleasant the
dinners Adee and wont to have with
mysterious friend. who lived in upper story--our
mysterious friend, whose business every one was
seeking to know. and could discover-and
who always roasted his partridgcs himself after
We had arrived. Pleasant the brisk
walks with Forbes the windy plains around
Madrid and the strolls with Austin in the
streets Of the old town. Pleasant IL was to
hear the Minister throw his leg his crutch
and preach about Spain and the Republic. and
marvellous preaching IL for he knew Spain we'll
aud believed in the Republic. But how changed
Cold winds drive maidens and nurses from the Prado
The Fornos table, with the good Doctor at the head.
las vanished in the State Department, and Forbes is
In Afghanistan aud Austin in India, and new Min
lister reigns in the stead of the Seventy, and as
passed the old legation Isabel the Catholic street
was informed by public placard that IL wished to
rent the building had only say the word and take