Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-11-01
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NEW YORK October 30. Is;S
| The beauty of dress materials of design OF
ornamentation, and all In fact that goes to make
| up the wardrobeS OF those who have taste as
we'll as means TO crafty il, was never better
illustrated than this season. II is pleasure SIM
| ply TO look at some OF the fabrics-to trace out
the delicacy, the ingenuity, the wealth OF imagf-
| nation that have contributed To their produc-
| tion. The mixtures OF silk and wool are almost
| as handsome as the brocaded and embroidered
| Satins and velvets; and the numerous Stufs into
which gold and silver threads are introducedi
| small quantities give a richness TO costumes
| and especially to elegant indoor toilettes which
has never been seen since the livery of the mis-
| tress has been that of the maid also
WHITE AND GOLD.
The belle or the season OF 1859 will literally
| be bound in white and gold, this being the
| fashionable combination OF the season White
| for grand toietteS is as much the rage as ever
| and more costly than ever for mol only are gold
| threads introduced into white brocadeS. but
J train dresses Of white satin are enriched i'm gold
| and white silk embroidery trimmed with showers
| OF gold and white mafabout fringe and French
| lace sleeves into the design OF which delicate
! gold threads are also introduced The most
faSIlonabie White opera cl0akS are embroidered
/ with mixture OF white silk and gold. and the
! most distinguished white DonnetS have brimS
! edseu With gold cold. and are trimmed with gold
cololed satin ribbon. and ostrich or marabout
| feathers tipped with gold
Charming new wrappers for indoor wear are
einolodered up the front and upon the cuffs
/ ana pockets with stalks and leaves. executed in
! the shade OF old pure and ordinary gold aud
| have tiny golden butterflies OF other small
insects With expanded wings poised upon leaf
or stem. These cannot be bought. hut ladies of
! altlstlc tendencies enlbroideF them al home
ana The composition mentioned il the latest and
! most approved OF al those which nave origin
aIed from the London School OF Art
| No dreamer ever imagined more beautiful
! dress Tor fair woman than some of The recent
| creations OF our modern modiste. inspired 10y
! explorations INTO The domain of the artist. The
| long. soft clilIgfng robe Of cashmere of white
| chudah wool, OF rich satin combined with silver
elocade, OF c.qe de chenc embroidered and
diaped over satin. are centuries apart from the
! sun White muslin and the thick dead-Whitt,
opaque SILK OF satin of quarter OF a century
! ago through the SinuouS folds OF these drape-
| RES every motion OF the graceful limbs can be
! traced. and II Is question which concealS and
! which diScloSeS most, the wile-Skirted low
| necked. bare-sh0uldered. shOvt-sleeved frock OF
| tmlty Years ago, or the high. close. suggestive
/, gown of to-day.
! WINTER FABRICS
| The newest and the richest OF these is the
! Pekin stripe. which consists OF stripes an inch
| wide OF moile, alternating with one OF satin.
| upon which is a small brOcaded figure in colOrS.
! This is usually combined with plain satin of the
| ground color. blue being the most fashionable
| or, at least, considered the most desirable
| The brocaded yelyets are also very rich. but
these aIe usually Self-cOlored and are combined
with plain faille of the same shade. Thus a
| costume OF ciafet-c0lored bTOcaded velvet and
faille will be trimmed with bands OF soft featl-
| efS to match, and the small bonnet of clarpi-
| colored velvet feathers TO match the trimmings
/ such costumes are made in brown rs well as
claret-c0lor, and also in dark pruHe The most
| expensive stuffS are the hand embroidered vel
vets and satins, which are used exclusively for
| trimming purposes. The designs are ALWAYS
| very small. and gold and red are always intro
duced into them, 50 that they are Very effective
1 without being at all pronounced the Oriental
! blending OF color preventing them from being
! Gf
but they are now used for draaeFy aS well aS for
vests, Guns and collars. Instead OF cuffs. Tia
| deep. rounded cap OF forty Years ago Is some
| times added to the top OF the sleeve the cuff
| being made Of antique lace
! Beside these marvels of hantliworH The small
/ figured brOcadeS and reversible silks s.em quite
! poor and OF no special importance Yet they ar.
| really very beautiful well made aud in comb
! nation with rich faille and trimmed with fringe
TO match the figured silk, constitute elegant
| toilettes. Many OF the finest effects in eos
| tunes are now produced by all application o
/ ornament TO plain fabrics. Thus Diatn black
Sllk and satln are made into gorgeous masses o
| lne SIN ana Jet paSSmenterie and embroidery
| tne ornalnentatlOn following the regular design
| which sometimes introduces very admrable
aid thoroughly artistic effects. Thus feather
designs, dropping fuchiaS and wheat ears
| mixed with blue bells may be recognized and
! the effect of all this is very much heIphtened
by the fr1nges which are very light and made
! OF narrow, nat SILK tape, crimped to represent
marabout, and mixed with strands OF six and
! jet OF soft chenilles, the whole falling from the
infr
| grace and S0ftneSs OF effect
Ine costumes OF velvet and wool are as
iasiiionaDie as ever, and the finest wOoen
material mat for this purpose is the twllled camel's
nalf, SOFT as chuddah wool. and having long
! SILKY hairs upon the face. This material is 4S
lncneS wide and was formerly sold for three
doiials yard; now II can be purchased for one
dollar and a-half and is lovely either I'm cOmbl-
| nation with velvet or wO0Ien brOcade OF these
iaSt tnere are several new manufactures: one is
known as the :" Rocco" another as the Sui
flnr. fIa.a
| Ihese are all woolen fabrics with silk woven i'm
! as design, and are used less in combination
| than as trimming.
The ma jofity OF woolen costumes are male
| short, even the finest, and the wooden brocades
| is used as a facing for cuffs. vest collar and
pockets, and as side lappels for the habit bodice
Just as silk brocade or hand embroidered satin
Is used for trimming richer textures.
Of woOlen suiting materials the name is
legion: And they have the merit OF not only
nelng inexpensive, but genuine in quality This
Iact tne majority 0fsW0men are Just now ia a
position to appreciate. for nine out OF every ten
are In distress over some Od-faShoned pOplin
Ine lmpractlcable color of which viii not admit
OF combination with any OF the dark modern
shades, while the mixture OF silk aud wool will
not admit OF any process OF dying or transfer
nation. Except as trimming, which can be
feadlly removed, mixed goods ought never TO be
used, no matter what the fashion; the body part
OF dress ought always TO be composed OF tine
siik, WOOL, cotton, or velvet. The japanese
silks and poplins, so called, which Of late years
have Hooded the American provincial markets.
are specimens Of the modern English fashion OF
mixing and adulterating textile fabrics. They
are worthless mixture OF cotton with little
Sllk, charged with gum TO make them stiff and
glossy, and have broken the hearts OF many
ignorant women who can afford to get decent
dress once in three years, and who supposed
that in this trash they were getting something
equal TO silk. at half the price.
American manufacturers are winning the
most favorable position abroad, as well as at
home, for the purity and honesty OF their goods
Our American f1annels, camels hair cloth suit
ings. and blankets surpass foreign productions
at little more than half The price; and for two
dollars yard a black gros grain silk
Of American manufacture can he pro-
cued. which is perfectly pure, and
equal IN appearance TO the French silks sold
at fiye dollars per yard. In fine or what used
TO ne called Opera" fannelS, the advance in
manufacture has been great. The hair stripes
instead OF being printed, are now woven. and
the SO1tneSS OF texture and beauty OF coioring
renders them very fayOrite materials for indoor
dresses. wrappers and Sacques, as well as cloth
Ing Tor children. The newest flannel skirtings
are handsome enough for suits. They are i'm
darkest cloth shades. with a winsey mixture
which Is very pretty, and adapts them to chill
drenS suits as wellas their special purpose.
DRESSING FOR OPERA.
The revival of grand opera i'm New York and
the probability OF its continuance has raised
many questions in regard 10 correct toilette,
for such occasions. Formerly an opera dress
consisted mainly-OutSide the boxes where fulI