The New York herald., 1878-03-03


would draps my face and fall over the shoulders. So
when the sun had only draw The web over my
brow and throw the folds shoulders and ride
Although mpch heavier than any ordinary hat, and
apparently oppressive from its texture and the lap
ping folds, there was no discomfort The power OF
the sun sol at naueht Whatever breeze might be
stirring creep into the folds toy with
my chccka Then there was artistic sense 10 sat
isiy II Iit up the landscape. You could ce from
aiar ana - the dress WAS that OF q high Bedouin
chisf-of an Arab ofncer OF rank--you knew that
you were more than pilgrim; that you
were tho symbol OF authority 10 wandering desert
eyes far away, who saw your flaming headdress
streaming over the sand and ielt you were great
paeha-
the FOUNTAIN HEAD or CIVILIZATION
"Here," said Brugsch. as We dismouuled from our
dopkeys aud followed him into tho rlns OF The toni
pie, 'hsrs should all take Of hats for hero 10
the CRADLE the fountain head all the civilization OF
the world" This was . startling statement, but
Brugscn Is . serious gentleman and does not make
extravagant speeches. Thsu he told US about Abydos
wncn lay around us in ruins This was the oldest
city In Egypt II back Mcnes, the drst Of the
Egyptian kings, who, according TO Brugsch, rcisned
l5o0 years before Chrst--centuries before
Abraham came 70 Egypt It is hard to dis
pule q fact like this, and ono Of Tho party
ventured ask whether Tho civilization Of CHINA and
lpdia did not anteoaie or claim to antcdate, even
Abydos To be sure tdid but 10 China and India you
have traditions; here are monuments. Here under
tho sands that We we're crunchng with our feet here
first flowed iorsh that civilization which mas sreamed
over the world. Hebrew, lndan, Etruscan, Persian,
Roman, Greek, Observation-Disclosures form yoa give II,
Whatever shape II takesthis s the fountain OF II ALL
Stanley had been telling mo tow days ago,
we SAT At breakfast at Alexandria. Of the
emotions he felt when he came 10 tho sources
of the N,le where . tr,ckling OF water that
you might arrest and imprson within the goblops
brim out on It's migaty journey 10 The sea. re-
called tho Enthusiasm Of my iiusrious intrepid
Trend as thought that here the source OF an-
other Milo that had Deen flowing for ages. that had
enriched The world tho river enr,ches these
plains with all the arts and civilization aud religion
known TO man, ana that It was flowing, and still
1Owing. with growing volume and riches. You
see sm . believer came TO iheso lands
with reverence and havc iaith these stones.
shall never know much shout Egypt; am afraid
shall enough ior u 70 enter into the con-
trovcrsies about time and men that adorn Egyptian
literature believe In the stones, and here are the
stones on which are written tho namos of Inc kings
from Asncs to Ssthi l. Seth quilt this temple some
where ABOUT fourteen hundred years before Christ,
and like dutiiu king hc wrote tho OF his pre-
Here is the stone which Brussch reads as though it
were tho morning lesson. reading az one who believes
Here IL the very stono, beautifully engraved, and,
thanks 10 the sand, kept all those centuries as
fresh US when the sculptor laid down his chsel 1t
only found In 1862 aud is perhaps tho most vaua
BILE Of the monuments because II knts up tho uprav
eled threads OF Egyptian history ana gives you
unuous link from this day 70 the day OF Moses You
pass your hngcrs the stone and how besutl
iui and clear the lines Aud you It, you
the manifest honesty or the who did the work. Of
the king who told all he knew, ana Of tho truth Of
what written. believe the stone and ecl, Us
! said moment ago, little or the enthusiasm OF
stanley whom he sood at the ickliug source Of tho
Nile
THE RUINED CITY or AsYDos.
So ws follow Brugsoh cut OF tho chamber aud from
ruined wall 70 wall Ths ruins grand SCALE
Abydos 10 q temple which the Khedive is rescuing
IRON the sand Tho cisy was In It's time Of consider.
able importance, but this was ages ago, ages
and ages; 80 that ix glory was dead even before
Thsbes began 10 reign Thebes 10 old cuy. and
yst / suppose, compared with Thebes, Abydos Is as
much older as one OF buried Aztec Towns In Cen.
trail America Ii Older than New York. When The
temple 10 AL dug out We shall ind It 70 have
been 4 stupoudous affair; but there arc other
temples 10 DO soen IN better condition, and what
tradition--a tradition which Piutarch partly con-
arms--was buried tns god Osiris. The discovery Of
that tomb will BE- an event important In Eyypto-
logy as even the discovery Of America by Columbus IN
his aay. In tha earliest times II believed OSIRIS
was buried To the ancient Egg ptians the burial
place oil that god was sacred Mecca is 10 the
Moslsms the Holy sepuichre 10 the MediDval
CHRISTIANS. Tho government has, therefore, been
digging AL directions and ws started after Brugsch
10 sec the work. Mrs Grant rode along on
her donkey, and tho rest Of Us wont In
different directions loot There had been
troubles In tho arising out OF the
bad Nile and taxeA SO We had guard VINO lowered
around us--ons soldier, whom wc called, IN obedience
to the law oi physical condolences, Boss Tweed--
Keeping watch over the General. He was a iat and
ragged follow, with jolly lace II was quite walk
TO the ruins and tho walk hills and ridges Of
burning sand So tho Marquis to The village to
sec the samels had come bearing the iunohson--a
subject Of moro value TO his practical mud
than Tho tomb OF a dethroned deity. II was un in.
tercs,ing walk, TO especially, IL WAS our nrst
real glimpse Of the desert and OF an ancient CITY,
The General and the writer found themselves
together climbing tho highest OF the mounds 1t WAS
rather effort 10 keep our footing on the slippery
sand. Beneath us was ono excavation forty or fifty
feet deep You could see the remnants Of ola house
or old tomb; mnous Of fragments Of broken pottery
ali around You could see the strata that age after
sgs had hesped upon the buried city. The desert mad
slowly been creeping over 1t, and In the strata
were marks Of tho Nile. For years, for thousands oi
years, this mass, which tho workmen had torn with
their spades, had bcen gathering Tho CITY really
city Of tombs. In the ancient days the dcvou, Egyp
tan craved burial The tomb Of Osris, and 80 or
centuries, suppose, their remains were brought
to Abydos from all parts oi Egypt. This
tact gives SPECIAL value to the excavations, us u
gave . special solemnty TO WOW. Asw stood on
the sisvstion talking about Egypt and the impres-
sions made upon oy our journey tho very
striking. There was tho ruined temple; here were
the gaping excavations filled with bricks and pottery
Hero our party, some gstnering beads and skulls
aud stones; others having q lark with SAINT Bsy
others following Mrs. Grant xs body