New-York tribune., 1878-09-28
THE FASHIONS.
ArrnMN OPENINGS.

AND FOLIAGE - ELEGANT PASsEAEN iEhdhs'
PRINCES AND BUTTONS.
It is not in matters of fashion That ex-
tremes meet It by slow gradatiOns not suddenly,
that which otherwise would have appeared OK
trovaeant and absurd are accepted. As far as simple
usefulness goes the modern bonnet is somewhat
failure but for beauty and elegance 1t stu lays eian
no admiration and the shapes are different enough 70
please the most fastidOus. The close prncesse mas
something OF the cottage sides and front with
a high broad crown and suggestion OF
enrtain hand The famous Beefeater" returns again,
with other large bOnnets with faring brims.
sometimes cap-crown is seem Feathers. through
strange caprice OF fashion, take the eadi DOth bonnet
and hat decoration On both continents the destruction
pf birds is enormous. Not only tiny humming-Drds
Win cleaning heads but the larger birds-the brilliant
mpan Chinese kughsher the tanager OF red and pur-
nile bues the lophophore and India eOroueJrOu All OF
these are perfectly stuffed and on the wing. There
are besides breasts Of the sea-gull and peacock,
and made breasts Of some exquisite feathers Oh
dusly blue dashed with white. and each tiny
tp Rlltters with specb Of mother o. pearl
Fxonisite wings and bands to be made into bows are
dyed with marvellous art in imitation Of Persian eoiors
and are called cashmere feathers The extreme point oil
feather only used, and each one dyed IN the cash
mere colors is arranged and sewed on band IN the
shape Of birds wing, in close imitation OF the
groundwork Of a cashmere shawl. Others form
anaeke Of from three to feathers Of small ostrich
tips IN cluster all the Oriental colors seen in cash
mere shaws; the peacock lOphOphOre oriole ana lm-
plan form the ostrich cashmeres
There are many new fabrics in millinery goods. all
corresponding with the general magnifcence OF material
and color now coming into The simpler bonnet
coverings are velvet plush and silk and there are new
embossed vevets for trimming The new striped velvet
has satin ground Of some intense color, on winch are
velvet stripes in relief Of another color For instance,
ground OF old gold has stripes OF garne or one OF sap
phire blue has stripes OF dark Jaequemnot req
aAwF hasyn aprQQ N
background. Another novelty Is soft corduroy velvet
with curly fluffy pile; bOurrette velvet has surface
of fleece and at irregular spaces rough silky knots vel
vet dDiSe one of the most brilliant OF the new FAB
RIGS. Under the rich black velvet pile there gieam
fecks Of scarlet gold silver "copper" green and blue In
luminous changes There is nothing of tawdriness In
this glowing lightning effect beneath the dusky,
thick pile great deal Of red is used IN
all shades, such ss grenat or garnet ana
three OF four Jacqueminot shades. One borders
upon Magenta another is the Theirs redseyeral shades
darker than garnet-and there Bordeaux Chamber
TIN St. Julien and other wine cOlOrs. also dull dark
Egyptian red. The new green is extremely dafK, ana
the new blues, called gendarmes, are different from
the other blues the Opaque gems dter from the trans
parent new felt color Is simply drab, ana there are
beautiful shades of cream, warm ha2el 6IoWn ana
ROld-brOnze. There are, in fact cOOrs In ribbons ana
fabrics TO match perfectly every feather ana mower
for fastesinE feathers and bows in the way Of gilt
cutstee lizards bugs. beetles scara1er and tiny birds
ams Of Slt laeree decorated with cut-steel facets
5et rOsetes. gimp and tasselled ringes; Ribbons are
double-faced plush and satin satin and watered silk
velvet and SATIN satin and grOsgrain The width COM
monty used about two lncnes fau fl9poh 10 snO"h
90 match wool and plaid costumes
Felt hats and bOunets come in such shapes as the pn-
cesse clingng shape, with Normandy crown and mar
row curtain band others return TO the old fsVorte
shapes as the Derby hat and oxford, the coquettsh
DevOnshre and the later "Beeeater" The latest arrival
Is called Liberty cap; it has rolled-up brim and
quaint crown bending forward An olive velvet bonnet
has two wreaths Of shaded olive velvet leaves passing
around the brm, and It all is scattered quantity
of Brazilian beetles. large bow OF gOld-brOnze satin
ribbon is placed one side, and the two sets OF
strings also match the color of the beetles The only
face trimming is a narrow pleating OF olive velvet
garnet velvet bonnet has shades of satin ribbon fall
ing behind the nsrowest Of satin, for the purpose OF
tying under the chin others Of velvet and san the
velvet Of much darker shade. These cOlOrs are re-
peated in wreath Of shaded small velvet silk and satin
peonies that surrounds the bonnet The only face trim
ming IS q roueau Of garnet satin and chenille cord
pearcoored felt is trimmed with pearcoOred plush IN
a broad band across the front On large Alsatian
bow on TOP is perehed an impian bird WITH
beneath the shadow Of the bow. The edge OF the brm
Is studded with small cut-steel ornaments, ana laced
with garnet velvet Long pearl-cOiored saun strngs
are fastened at the back beautiful cream colored
felt has Alsatan bow made OF cashmere feathers he
other trimming consists OF cream satin mnIled WIN WIN
red There is garnet velvet marrow puing lnslas the
OF feathers In cashmere eoors green yeCW ana Dla9S
blending IN the other. double bow Dehind OF gold
pGndehe OF three white and curling ostrich feath
bonnet Of odeska shape opened at each side and
sasbed acrOss with gold cord On pleatng o. nght ng
bronze satin placed Asatan bow quite far forward
OF green velvet and feather rosettes marrow punnR
velvet eRtTaed MIN goq cora IS neg us SGe m n o5
side is edged with a let fringe ana .aSst MsSs9e
wide creScentsRaped band is set beneath the turhedup
brim and covered with fluffy feather trimming here and
trimmed with black satin ribbon and halffacing OF
black velvet. The edge Of the broad brim lie pierced
three black ostrich tips nod forward and three long
Plumes coil gracefully around the crown a3opnG & De-
falling either side and strap passes nrmly across
the middle.
Flowers will be worn perhaps later in the season,
dress bonnets In conjunction with feather tips and
rosetes There chapets Of pale gray leaves Of silk
Itreaked with delicate color aud confined at the
ends by crimson tropical bud or toune OF crushed
Jacqueminot roses. Garlands intended to edge the
oyerskrt Of ball dress arranged in roses showing
all the Jacqueminot shades, from the deepest crimson
ana Magenta and Bordeaux red to the lighter tints.
These are made Of silk, satin, and vel
vet, and hang dropping from bending stems.
Autumn in her gayest livery copied faithfully In mag
nacent satin velvet leaves, brOnzed aud mottled
in yellow, scarlet rGddy brown and dusky gray,
with messy stems and twigs tinged with decay. There
seems TO be an endless variety Of material used in the
Manufacture Of hOwers such chenille gold and silver
tinse and enamel velvet, SILK, satin, muslin rubber
and the natural ieathery grasses, heath and braoken
growing IN every field Superb panses appear in var
GUS exquisite shades Of carnaOn aud shell pink gera
mum red shading into dark Jacqueminot aud richest
crimson IN soft satin and velvet The charming flowers
OF the Lady Washington geranium are fashionable this
season in fesh-OOlOr, eorapink shading into warm gar
net OF finest silk and velvet Nor chrysanthemums
less lovely their novel shades Of blue deep as sap
phire and all the tints Of garnet and wnecoors
trranged in exquisite gradaton Of shade, involving
shade in long garlands, clusters for the waist and
bosom. and montureF. Beautiful tropical leaves
and thistes, with feathery pumy grasses gltteriDg
with gold and silver dust grouped together In cs
ters for various purposes For brides the conventional
orange blossom still relgns favCrite, but not alone
insmne spirea. white lilac. MYRTLE