Staunton vindicator. [volume] (Staunton, Va.) 1860-1896, 1878-11-15
New York Fashions.
BIRDS ON BONNETS-THE GILDED AGE
NEW DESIGNS-soCIETY TOILETTEs.



here, there, and everywhere on new bon
nets, give continued testimony to feml-
nine perversity. There is quite a'run made
on felts, and "a faVOi tie stJ le OF trimming
is gay Pompadour, or brightly striped
ribbon laid plainly, except on the top,
where towers huge bow. The bright
ribbon is in effective contrast with til.
felt OF dark brown, blue, green or gray
Piquant little felts are garnet or wine COL
oled and are trimmed with, ribton, leavts
and flowers to match. These are wor
with short costum in the same fashior
able shades. lie sure and have strings
tied under your chin; a bonnet is not
onnet without.
THE GILDED AGE.
One might call this the Gilded Age.
without e, ing SO far out of the way, since
just now it would be harder task to say
whe gilt is not put, than to say where it
is. For we find it everywhere; plentifully
mixed in with trimmings, and glittering
on ribbons; rich materials are wrought in
bright traceries of gilt. or are Topped and
fastened by gilded cords, while braids, pas
sementeries and fringes are sometimes
composed entirely of gilt. Even laces,
both black and white are combined with
gilt; it shines on hosiery; in millinery the
gilded OraanlentS are really innumerable,
and they even force themselves ON dainty
ty white muslin caps. Yet on the other
hand. do not pray You. imagine us all
laden down with gilt. Not so. For this
is quite a little town you see, and scope is
afforded for many different styles. Thus
while one fashionable lady chooses gilt,
another equally fashionable lady will have
none OF it. But from frequent seeing OF
it, we lose our horror, and come to regard
it quite coMplacently.
NEW DESIGNS.
Of these, the Panler polonaise slows the
new bouffaDt back and is otherwise quite
stylish. For short dress, the Princess
walking costume may be commended,
while in the way of an outside garment,
the Octavia sacque should be mentioned
This would combine with either the Prin-
cess or the Mathilde walking costume.
The Zoline Vesite is another new street
garment cut in circle shape. For the ben
eft of ladies who make their own gar
ments. will mention that J. &.P. Coats
have received the gold medal at the Paris
Exposition for their spool cotton, but this
is only confirmation Of the awards of all
expositions where they have invariably
obtained the highest prizes. The Wilt
mantle Linen Company have taken only
a second class prize the silver medal.
SOCIETY TOILETTES.
Embroidered and Pompadour silks are
among the choicest novelties introduced
for dinner, reception, and evening tot
letteS. The first named are skillfully en-
broidered throughout by hand, in varied
and beautiful patterns, while the latter
as the name would IMPLY, are similar in
character to the Pompadour ribbons, which
in millinery are productive of such excel
lent results. Plain satin is combined with
these rare fabrics in many ways. but usual
y
characteristic of the court train, and the
embroidered or Pompadour silk is disposed
in front or elsew here as may seem apprO-
pirate. Bro AIDED silks are also brought
largely into requlsition in rich society
toiletteS.
A superb dress, made by Worth for Miss
Astor, is of white satin and brocade silk.
The corsage of satin is in basque shape,
pointed back and font, nth heart shaped
seek and trimmed around the neck d
down the trent with crystal jet. The
-l-evt-s are lon4. The front of the skirt is
composed of white brocade, woven in large
roses and leaves, and at the lack court
train of satin falls. The low + edge of the
front breadth is Gni he'd with loopings of
satin and fringe. An extremely rich and
Elective toilette, ordered for Mrs. VIM.
H. Vanderbilt, is made of crimson satin,
united with rich brocade, of which brown
is tie prevailing color. Anot er toilette,
recently completed for her only unmarried
daughter, is maze of Nile green satin and
Pom padnur silk, showing Il beautiful floral
pattern Oh groundwork of green, similar
to the Satin. This is made with basque
and long sleeves, A second toilette, de-
vised for the same young lady, is of pale
pink satin, combined with MORE of the
same shade aid trimmed richly with Mech
lin lace. This is low neck, with short
~leeves,
Flowers are almost ignored in evening
toilettes. In many of the handsomest they
do not appear at all, while, if used, it is
generally for the purpose of catching a
fall of drapery, for which nothing else can
be substituted. Even in bridal toilettes.
where orange blossoms are indispensable,
they are sparingly employed. Satin, bro
cade and indented silks are the favorite
materials for bridal dresses, while for the
veil of tulle, no substitute has been found.
Passementeries and fringes are Of ex-
traordinary width and richness. The for
mer are of gilt braid combined withamber
beads, or, again, we find additions of
changeable beads. by which irrideseent Of
fects are produced. Crystal jet is laid on
a white foundation, forming refined class
of pass9ementeries. or is wrought into
fringes Of liks character. These passe
menteries are laid down the seams Of cor
sages from neck to waist, app.saf also in
skirts apd on carriage wraps, the gilt "rlr-
rideseent gre placed with striking results.
Sometimes they are seyen inches lg in width.
and may be put on as headings to fpringes.
or again, are interviewer t4ereWitl,
Chenille is largely employed in the mann
facture of rich fripgts, and other styles
are tufts or even embellishments OF sllken
threads. a carriage garment OF black