The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-03-21
tHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING WRAPS.

SPhlNG WRAPS.
Fichns, mantelets aud scarfs are the shapes
chosen for the most dressy spring wraps. The
materials are principally black camel's-hair
and black Sicilienne; cashmere in the finely
woven French twills has lost its prestige, bat
the rough-surfaced ,achemire des Indes il still
in favor. Black gros grain is occasionally
used, but Is less plable than the soft Siclleune,
The fchd in its various styles is so simple and
so graceful that 1t is universally worn in Paris,
and Is largely imported not only as separate
garment, but as part of the costume. Some
of these are quite shallow, reaching just to the
waist line, and they may bs quits low on the
shoulders, or else high behind; the fronts are
quite long and narrow, and are tied In half
knot, that draws the garment closely to the
shoulders, keeps the arms close to the sides
and has the graceful clinginz effect that the
clingiDg costumes require. Those Of black
wool are most used, ara embroidered directly
on the edges aud finished with fringe that Is
tied into the hem of the garment, like that
seen on Canton Grape sbawls The prices Of
small wrap is the Carissa Harowe scarf. made
almost straight, reaching from shoulders to
waist in the back with long ends n 'front.'
There are short darts 10 the shoulders to shape
~ p.opeeiy, auu iaucitul nat nood Is IN the
back. These ale embroidered, or else trimmed
with three or four rows OF knife-pleated lace
aud passementerie. There are also manv
capes, some of which are three round Csrricks,
while others are single cape Of black camers
hair slightly pointed in front aud back aud cut
with a long seam on each shoulder 10 the old
fashioned way. Around the neck Of such
cape Is deep pleated collar of black watered
silk edged with beaded balls, fringe or lace,
and watered silk pleating borders the gar
mnut MaptaIata arae in hn,d
many OF these have the graceful Dolmaa seams
In the back, with the arm piece cut quite Short
or else forming small sleeve, and the front
extending very low. There can be nothing
OF this shape, as it is necessarily confined to
two or three rows down the middle of the back
and border on the edge. 1t is more than ever
necessary that these garments be cut very close
to the figure aud 10 slender proportions, instead
OF the loup, bulky mantles worn q year ago.
Illustrations in the Bazar of last week will give
traer idea of these WRAPS than any mere
description can do. The illuminated beaded
trimmings showing every color of the ra,noow
are much used on these black mantles, making
them very rich and expensive; jet trimmings
in new designs are also shown. The most ele-
CANT Sicilienne wraps are lined through
out with old gold oolored SILK or
else with twilled silk Of soft beige shades. Rich
are also heavily beaded. Toe friuges are large
ly used aud are especially handsome. Whale-
bone ard grass frnges Of stte ued silk threads
are very fashionable aud the beaded frinaes Of
Intricate patterns are used on elaborate wraps
Small square bows OF narrow black satin ribbon
is used in the same way. Two strings of ribbon
each yard long and about three inches wide
are placed at the throat of the mantle and the
wearer ties 1t in a long looped bow. Sometimes
this ribbon is watered on one side and satin on
the other; in other cases it is doubls-facsd satin
ribbon, one side black aud the other beige, old
gold, olive or cardinal.
Very few dressy wraps are made in sacque
shape: There are, however, some of heavily
lest French sacque shape, single breasted, me
dunn long and smooth over the t0urnure. These
are elaborate with rainbow beads lace, passe-
menterie and fringe. For jaunty uudress wraps
English jackets, sacques with Carrick canes,
and other masculine-sleeved garments are pre-
ferred. The English coat Is precisely like
genteman's morning coat in the back but Ia
buttoned from the revers collar to the waist In
front, aud thus does away with the necessity
for vest. These are made up IN light mastic
gray aud beige colored cloths Of English and
SEQ ch manufacture, not in set disgolals or
in basket patterns, bat in irregular indrfiuite
weaving that products the mixed effects now
so popular. These are simply stitched on the
edges or else they are bound. Those Of gray
broken plaids will be much worn for morning
wear by young ladies. The prettiest sacques
with Carrick capes omit the middle seam in the
back and none of these English garments have
long seams from the shoulders.
Travelling cloaks retain much OF the Ulster
shape, though more closely fitted and many
are ornamented with Csrfick cspes. The
Eoglsh cloths are used for early spring and
steamer wear For long journeys where
cooler and more dressy wrapi desired, the
genuine India pongee is used for making the
long cloak and CsrIick capes. Beige and ecru
popgees are imp ported for this purpose, also the
cool clean gray shades. Gray muslio and
linen busters will be made in similar shapes.
Wooden buttons, large, thick, and with eyes
in the middle, are used on cloth wraps for
spring. Thick braid in rows of three to i've is
a favorite trimming for light cloths; on some
wraps light trimmings of gilt or of silver are
mixed with the brsids. Carriage wraps are
made OF cloth 10 bouretts mixtures OF many
coors. The shape is partly circular, and psrlly
DolmaD, adhering closely to the outlines of the
hgufe, yet being very easily put on or taken on,
as all extra wraps must be-.
NEW GLOVES.
Something unique is cough. for 10 gloves
nowadays, as In other things; hence undressed
kid gloves have come to be considered the most