The Portland daily press., 1878-04-04
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

After examining great number of refined
and fresh-looking dresses from the best Pa
risian houses, several small yet important de-
tails about basques impress themselves First
among these are new ways of giving the square
effect to the front of the waist by very simple
trimming. Thus the new barred ribbon trife
over two inches broad is put in two straight
rows down the front, beginning at the collar
just outside Of the buttons and button-holes,
and ending just below the top of the first dart,
where it is laid over in pleat or gathered to
taper it slightly, and there a large bow with
short ends joins the two parallel rows. making
a Pompadour square. A wide collar covers the
beginning of the ribbon. Another style, Just
the reverse of this, has the ribbon begin at the
top of the first dart, peated slightly as the
waist tspers, and thence widened straight down
to the end of the basque; some basques have
two rows of ribbon placed in this way. The
silk vest laid on the basque is the easiest way
of making vest fit neatly, as it then forms
part of the basque; this:is very much used, and
is then bordered with satin, velvet or figured
ribbon folded double and laid on plainly.
Another simple and pretty way is that of fac
side with silk, then turning this over on the
right side to slope away from the throat, wild
ening to three inches at the bottom, and dis.
closing silk vest beneath; the turned-over
part has the effect of silk revers.
Crepe lisse tinted creamy white and edged
with cream-.inted Valenciennes is worn in the
neck and sleeves of silk, white cameps hair and
grenadine dresses. 1t is put in very thick frils
of three or four knife-pleated ruflss gradually
widened. On some white wool dresses it is put
in shells down each side of the button-holes,
forming double jabot that stops at the top of
the first dart; in other dresses the ruffle that
passes around the neck extends in one row
down the front as if peeping out from beneath
the button-holes.
A stylish way of using ribbons is that of
doubling three shades Of satin ribbon. each an
inch wide, placed closely together to form a
band around the wrist, where it ends in bow,
or on the shorter sabot sleeves that stop halt
way between the elbow and wrist. Imagine,
for instance, that the dress is pale blue crepe
batiste trimmed with rosebud embroidery on
tulle; then the folded ribbons on the sleeves
will be olive green, rose and pale blue. The
basque will have at the throat rosette OF
these three colors with some hanging ends cut
in saw teeth, and the habit basque back will bs
laid in pleats, down each Of which is folded
satin RIBBON Of one Of these three colors.
We must not omit to say that the V 10 the
back of the newest basques ID very sharply &C
centuated, forming point just below the
waist line. Square backs of habit basques are
quite long, spriog off 10 "poBa" style smoothly
Jver the hips, and the ribbon trimmings are in
two rows that pass across the square ends, but
are not on the sides, which are merely piped
with silk. Nearly all such basques have leaden
oh ottaahad tO Ia lining IN kaaD ha ID
from turning up. long-looped bow, very
harrow and with short ends, is at the tip end of
such basques; that seen on the belted basque
habit illustrated in this paper is good model
of this new bow on the bach.
Brocaded grenadines of two cOlors or OF two
shades are among the richest dresses shown
for summer. They are made over silk with
usually basque and an elaborately trimmed
trained skirt. Satin is very often associated
with them as trimming, also the new satin rib
square habit shapes, lined with thick silk, out
most of them have no lining in the sleeves,
leaving these transparent, like the lace sleeves
worn during the winter. Some of these trans
others are cut off just below the elbow; these
are called sabOt sleeves. Another fancy is to
make deep collar of the grenadine to these
dresses, shaped like the collar shown on the
cosely.ftting jacket illustrated on the first
page Of Bazaar No. 13, Vol, XII A yery rici,
color, made up over brown silk, and trimmed
with old gold satin ribbon barred with brown
velvet. The silk Is covered in front with a
broeaded grenadne scarf apron, and the flouuce
is of box-pleated bias grenadine, with pleated
silk frill on the edge. The square basque has
transparent sabot sleeves, large collar barred
| ribbon and bows down the front, and also
cream colored crepe lisse frils edged with Val
encennes lace.
Another novelty for summer dresses is beige
linn i'm ttyn 1ana hrn-
cade. Ii is as thin as batlste and forms elegant
polonaises to be worn over black velvet or slk
This also hasstransparent sleeves and 1t is now
customary with French modistes to make these
| sleeves separate, binding them with narrow rib
bon at the top nd facing the armholes, so that
| they can be easily taken in and out; a second
pair of sleeves is then furnished like the silk or
| velvet of the skirt. Black Spanish lace and
| shaded cardinal satin sibb0n bows are used for
these oyer-dresses. In one instance panels, COL
brodered with rainbow beads are mounted on
l these biege lace.like over-dresses.
Neat and pretty dresses for young ladies and
school. girls are made of the hair-striped summer
silks that are now sold for from fifty cents to
| 81 25 yard. 1T two shades of blue are chosen
or two Dlue-gray stripes, or else plum-color, OIL
may be, old gold and brown, they have a very
| nice effect when trimmed with solid. colored
silk like the darker shade of the two strips
For instance, for blonde of sixteen has just
been made cheap silk of dark navy blue al
ternating with pale blue stripes. The demi-
trained skirt has single pleating seven inches
deep as houncei the pleats are an inch broad,
and are bordered near the lower edge with
bias blue silk band an inch wide. The over
SKIRT has an apron made of two breadths OF the
silk passed straight across the figure like a
scarf, aud cut on the edge 10 leaf points that
are oound with solid blues the back drspery Is
two tapped breadhs finished with narrow knife
pie e,tng. The basque has square oack and
i belted front md ls trim mad on the breast with
lea puints to form a Pompadour square.
Blue pearl buttons.