Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1878-11-13
VOL. 74.-3761. NO. 5.

to have the lower part of each sleeve come
together, and thereby gain longer strip for
the wristbands. If number of shirts are
to be made at one time, cut out all the
backs and fronts first. In cutting the latter,
place them so that the portion of shirt
where the front yoke is sewed on will come
directly against the same part in the second
front. 1t must be borne in mind now TO not
cut out each bosom piece separately but as
one piece. The advantage gained In this is
that an entire yoke for one side of the shirt
can be gotten out of this strip of muslin.
Now that the shirt is cut out, the next
question is how to begin, and how to pro
ceed after having begun. In the first place,
hem all the flaps and the opening, which
should be five inches in length, at the bot
tom OF each sleeve. Now sew the selvedge
edges together from the lower end of the
slit down the middle of the back then for
finish to the opening, turn over the sell
wedge edge an eighth of an inch, stitch it
down and secure it at the bottom by tri-
angular piece Of muslin stitched on the
wrong side.
Now baste the bosom in very carefully,
taking the two thicknesses of the linen, and
joining with the edge of the muslin in
seam that will come on the right side of the
shirt; press the rather stiff seam thus made
with the fingers, then turn in the outside
layer of the linen, and stitch down neatly,
covering the seam Just made. Take an
extra little strip to face across the lower
edge of The bosom. Now begin two inches
from the arm-hole and gather the backs
across until they are drawn up sufficiently
to fit the yokes, remembering that the right
yoke is always a little wider than the left, TO
allow for the lap; then proceed to gather
the sleeves at the bottom to fit the wrist
band the gathering is now all done. Next
sew the wristbands OH the sleeves, and stitch
them all around Now sew up the end of
each yoke, turn it over and run single
basting thread across, so as to keep the out
side and lining even; next sew the lining
of the yoke to the back in a seam on the
right side, and then stitch the outside down
very neatly; sew the front of the yoke on in
the same manner.
The next step is TO sew up and fell the
seams under the arms and sleeves After
this is done, insert the sleeves into the body
a good half inch, sew them, and press the
seam out with the fingers then turn in the
raw edge and stitch down; this serves as
little facing. The band around the neck
must be cut crosswise Of the linen in order
to make it retain its shape. Sew it around
IN seam and turn it right side out. Now
comes the shaping of the neck, which, if
properly done, is the crowning triumph of
well-made shirt. The directions on the pat
tern indicate the number of inches to be
followed out in the bosom. Care must be
taken to avoid the least sign of angularty
in the curve from the point where the yoke
comes in contact with the bosom this is
common fault, the result of which is the
continued pulling out of the band from un-
der the collar. If after shaping the neck
the band proves too large the bosom had
better be followed out little more; never
cut more than the barest seam off the yoke
for one of the most dsagreeable features of
shirt is its being too low in the neck at a
point on the shoulders.
Now turn in the edge of the wrong side
of the neck band, and stitch it on the wrong
side of the shirt; then serve the right side
the same way, and stitch all around Now
work the button holes, three in the band
and two in each sleeve. There should not
be single button sewed on the shirt when
pearl collar buttons are so inexpensive. In
working the back button holes in the neck
band great care must be used to bring the
bottom exactly opposite the middle of the
centre pleat. Add the cores, and the shirt
is done.-Harper's Ba-dr.