New-York tribune., 1878-10-26
THE FASHIONS.
A pFvTvAr, OF ANTIQUE FABRICS.

There exists Just now O passion for the word
roooco which Is applied 10 Dress landscape gardening
furniture and brio abrao generally 1t Is an age OF fo
coco or retrogressye. fashionable belle VIII nave her
costume TEmpre with bonnet hat Of Louis Seize,
and Jewels Roman, japanese or Egyptian 80 one ne
comes carelessy incOnsideratey pachy indeed our
lesouc because inconsistent To all this one would not
object If women would study art and different ages.
MANY of tho fashionable mOdises frequent the theatres
solely for the purpose Of studying the artistic costumes
of the actresses and prma donnas London ana Pars
MANAGERS comprehend perfectly the necessity OF a
sublime toilette" aud celebrated painters such as
Roux Durand and Others search books OF the Rehhas-
sance and other epochs sketch drapery, invent pat
terms ard combinations of coors which in turn are
made I'm Inv famous modise gratuitOusy for the re-
nowu given their names great ariste and success
ful opera or play make the costumes fashionable at
once. wardrobe for the operate season consists OF
Some of the most magnificent dresses that
hayo ever been seen on the American stage
showing the artistic genius OF Worth. Two ac-
curate reproductions Of the fourteenth century,
including the hair ornaments and slippers for the Trova-
fore are first blue brOcade satin mauyc train
The mauve sleeves suprrbly embroidered and
slashcd with gold. The second Is white satin Also
richly embroidered around the skirt and laced with gold
EIsa's bridal dress in "LOhengrin" is superb whto
satin Prncessc with low and short sleeves ex-
quisely embroidered by hand in an intricate design Of
roses and foliage in white silk and gtterng gold thread
CdTmeng Suanish costume is a creamy white satin skirt
covered with floating mass OF tue with gold om-
brodcrcd ounces over vest of scarlet satin IL worn
black velvet jacket embroidered eaboratcly with gold
thread. OGc Of PhHiHG'S costumes IS a gOld-or0nze
SATIN The front breadth is mass Of graceful drapngs
Of more delicate shade in silk Of the same color with
tiny stripes green satin and elegant bordering OF
silver fringe silver passcmcnteric buckles are placed
on the drapcry which Is umncd by loops OF blue, gar
net and ovccoorcd satin. cOquetlishy displayed just
enough TO lend the artistic tint OF color The corsage
which is laced in front, is combination OF the PLAIN
satin and striped silk The elbow, sleeves and neck are
eXquStcy trimmed with creamy white SILK lace, heavy
with embroidery of silver beads ana Ornamented with
set Of the passpmenterie buckles Among the beautiful
concert dresses is OF the new cherry color
which will be extremely fashionable this season
for evening dres.-in satin made With long traln
edged with wide. full plated ruchng OF satin which
in .ont is decorated with white roses and foliage The
round surplicc waist. again revived, has fold OF red
watercd silk conccalng the belt The back Of the waist
dcsccnds deep cuirdss gradually rounded and or
nam Sltcd with q large bow of watered silk. a charm
ing garland Of white Is placed gracefully across
the hust shoulder aad passes carcessy down
on side of the skirt to the edge. magnificent cos
tune of costly velvet is shade OF warm hazel-brown
The front of the skirt ia made OF cloth Of SILVER
interviewer with roses ana pansies glowing In
tie tints OF nature, and attached to the dress
at each side by Louis XIV buttons aud silver ana
brown taSscs The Squarecut corsage is completed by
o r,odcshe made OF costly Old lace ruillcs and
there refers Of the silver brOcade Long basques are
made to the back Of the waist, which is cut away in
front that II may not spoil the effect of the brocadc The
elbow sleeves OF br0cade fall into full rulcs OF old lace
The edge tho skirt cut IN turrets. showing
beneath the glitter OF silver fringe.
Ii will be that satin is first among the fashionable
fabrics followed by brccadcs, velvet MORE antique and
watcred silk Cherry garnet, famous vino tnts, and
all vivid pigh lupa will
scky ghosts of shades that have been popular for so
long very fashionable color for the street il warm
dark brown, in silk and brOcadc This eolOr is very
handsome in Cdchemire de Z Irde Another favorite
shade deep sOmbre gray called Sarde. This is bright
encd by the contrast OF the new pink called Opheia,
very delicate rosy gray. What is called the dead finish
in silks seems be abandoned for rich lustre This
ia very apparent in figured brocadcd silks which show
a satin finish. The latest importatiOns OF dress
fabrics have a background for the display OF
rpplcs or waves OF velvet silk ground OF dark rich
color. These elegant fabrics, some Of them selling for
SO yard, used for portions only Of costumes;
velvet brOcadc heavy thick silks, yeOurs and corduroy
cloth are among the heavy and superb dress goods used
TO combine with silk, soft India cashmeres and fine
csmes fabrics. Besides the fashionabes shades OF
red later mportatons show amaranth, absinthc. pea
straw and softbended COOrngs like the cloudy beauty
| of Ilmoge porcelain, with tint involving tint.
Pinked gathered and bOxpaited ruches are revived.
and ruches made bias and frayed at each edge Patngs
are too popular be yielded. they show variety in
styles such being divided at regular distances by
| fine clusters OF ppinGs. Sometimes sdeplaited
hounce is made Of two materials in alternating strips
| again hounce has the lower edge cut in points or
turrets and the opening is filed in with fine knife
paitngs OF silk If tho dress is WOOL satin it silk
great deal OF embroidery seen on vests cuffs collars
| and other accessories OF the dress. Early Autumn
| wraps ere seen in the familiar dolman dolman
| mautles, aud various other mantle shapes. Round
capes reappear and nchus matching the costumes In
dependent wraps made OF China Grape India cash
mere drdp d'ff, and silk elaboratcy trimmed with
lace ribbon bead and silk embroidery, and rich passe
mrutcr!c fruges Heavier wraps IN stcque shape are
made of maaSSe and there are other styles III drab
TAM bronze, aud olive Gamers bah Inc chanGe from
extreme aurs IN the backs OF dresses very apparent
! as the season advances.
hc latest fashions draperies and upholstery come
IN magnificent Gothic siy lcs OF spun aud raw SILK.
hora arabcSqucs III duli coIors Another style of the
same stuff has stripes OF cream, dusky blue and dark
fabric presents lustrOus face IN imitation Of nsel.
! whcrcon gold threads gutter in minute spccks.
low. Tue designs in olive and shaded red
show figured circles. cioth OF gold Is covered
with crlcd crisIy leaves two shades o olive.
color and dull blue Raw silks come in Persian designs
TO correspond with the rugs and carpets o the East, and
opitrs after the HndOO. All silk drapereS with
satn have designs taken from specimens of the
Ciuqltl emo period IN nTuleu circles ana ar4Desqes
chcrD-co.or, sapphire and Indian blue ohye garnet.
ana intense crimson. superb satin damasks como
| aud blue. velour Palma is new fabric in mode
and bYchtcOlOIcd ground covered with raised plush g-
ufcs. Jltc appears in new dress OF cOOfcd silk and
plush figures IN stripes on various shaded draD grounds.
MOhalr plush, material presents the appearance
Oi large tn arabcsques velvet ground in all col.
! Ors HaTitccut at OF crimson silk plush cur
! ta!us are bOrdered with silk tapestry in dun
| Persian coIors. Noqucttc tapestry has a white
! ground with Brilliant little bouquets OF now-
! cls. Pretty curtains of creamy batiste arc
made with wide Insertions aud edgres Of real gupure
lace. othcr inexpensive curtains are hne Swiss an-
bDulCd showing large heavy flowers, aud fine Noting
ham with stripes OF Oriental plants and hsurs. Fine
Brussels point curtains have exquisite designs Vasrs
hllcd with lilies and pcdesais and These are all
| less than half price,
The latest fashion Of furniture fringe Is made very
WIt M succession Of balls ana taSscs, cmbOiying all
Ci the culOTs o. the fabric ~ silk and wool alt silk
ani m heavy silk bullion. Toe ayorite chamber furu.-
hal fec tI I1f,.L.