New-York tribune., 1878-07-13
THE FASHIONS.
ARTICLES OF SUMNER WEAR.

lhe eX-EmpresS was mucQ aDuSeQ en-
couragng extravaganza in Dress but far the Repub
ncan system has not able accomplish any inn
prOvement in that line. Dresses still made Of two
coors sometimes OF three and ornamented with elaho
rate prouson The consolation is that the Repub-
can ideas prevailing permit OF great liberty OF
choee and that those who prefer to dress simply may
do So although. a rule, extravaganza prevails. The
fabrication OF ribbons has taken very large increase
owing to a fashionable demand. A great quantity OF
ribbons win be used this season for trimmings on bon
nets, dresses or wherever a ribbon may be success
fully employed; and this luxurious industry
yields profit to army OF manufac turers
clerks dyers, reelers, warpers, wefters, we AYERS
designers, glazers, rollers. cutters folders, aud
packers The beautiful satin ribbons Of the reversible
style, for trimming white dresses, produce charming
effect something like small bouquets OF flowers They
are mostly side and watered upon the other
in such artistic harmony Of colOrs as clOyepink and
foam-green amber and biscuit bluegreen and granite
gray, HoDein green and very pale blue mastic and
cream, OivC-green and gold color, rose-pink
and ruby gOld-bronZe and black and moss
green and acanthus Several styles Of these
narrow ribbons are knotted fancifuy together embOdy
ing delicate contrasts in dark and light effects and are
the white lace muslin OF an evening dress
That passion existing for white muslin evening
dresses might delude into dreaming OF economy ana
pastoral simplicity, whereas nothing can be more expen
sive The muslins and French Organdes fne as
~~N
trimming is not considered extravaganza En-
broidery is also profusely applied On one ex-
quisite model, the skirt has deep nounce
which is composed Of alternate rows OF Valenciennes
insertion and very fine tucking. There are elaborate
qungs muslin edged with lace at the heading OF the
ounce and the sort OF trimming edges the cloud
like scarf drapery that gracefully laid the front
and terminates at the Sides Behind two breadths OF
muslin form a train loOped just below the edge OF tho
basque, aud this is profusey trimmed with Lace Clus-
ters of the reversible ribbon In bouquet
II cream tearose mgnionete shades mossgreen, blue
and strawberry red placed wherever there is any
looping OF the drapery and In the quilngs and edgng
of lace.
Another style shows the lace rufes forming cascade
across the front of pncesse Dress arranged dagonay
and dotted all over with the dainty bright ribbons The
pretty sleeves reach only to the elbow aud there fall lilo
fris OF lace completed by bands and longoOped ribbon
basques made of alternate rows OF lace ana nne
tucks and full quIings Of lace and knots OF ribbon.
Many OF the French gauzy and Organdy fabrics
are trimmed on the skirt with succession Of rufes, the
FrouFrou fashion returned again after several years
With these fresh and charming dresses is the Nell
Gwynne white-ace mttens reaching nearly TO the ell
bow. They are made OF silk pic net and some OF them
are beautifully embroidered and edged at the upper part
with rUiie Of point dapplique of a creamy tint
Among some fashions for muslin toilets is tab
er made Of an elaboration of lace and finest embroidery
PoOnases made In princesse shape OF lace In one
piece SO arranged in other instances that the designs
are perfectly matched in the seams. The waists are
made low Innings OF white or colored silk, with
short sleeves Others less costly where there nounces
trimmed with Vaenciennes or white Spanish point
are worn over colored cambrc or lawn. Little round
capes promise TO very popular, made Of lace, lawn
tue muslin aud other very transparent fabrics. They
are double and treble, well single, and are edged
with frilng and quings OF muslin or lace. There Is
hint OF the resurrection OF the gigot" leg o. mutton
sleeve, after many decades OF rest aud the giraffe COMB
another long forgotten fashion OF our foremother is DIS
inferred aud made beautiful with settings OF hlagree
silver and radiant pearl
Costly and elegant black Chantilly lace long mittens
brought out from Paris, and with them long aband
oned black silk stockings with nsertngs Of needle point
ON the instep aud Sometimes cOced and embroidered
equlsitey with delicate vines and flowers. The sheath
shape skirts have necessarily undergone an Innovation
PARTLY on account Of the impossbiIty OF wearing
short dress this shape and partly because OF the reV
val Of many antique styles One OF the additions OF In
noyations is seen in paniers in order TO afford some sup
port the loopedup drapery. bouhant style Is the
very latest change although the fronts OF dresses are
s severely and classicaly fat Worth has introduced
d new costume especially adapted TO increase the
boufant effect The overskirt is left open in front
and drawn easily away upon each side over an
elaborate underskirt, in one instance the front
OF the uuderskirt is simply kilt-paited from the
belt down With this model the overskrt IS caught on
the hips in cluster OF plaits held IN place by knot Of
long strongly contrasting ribbon loops The short apron
oyerskrt is again introduced after ten OF rest the
paners at sides lined with stiff material to
make them bOuffant, to correspond with the backs
Sometimes there is pointed drapery at the back and
kilt plaits in front. For city and travelling short
dresses are made up OF masc beige colOrs biscuit aud
all shades OF gray OF such fabrics French bunting
plan fine wool cames hair, and combinations OF plain
camel's hair and pin-head checked silk. They are
trimmed with fine plaitings OF Cluny lace or
the color OF the dress. The paitings OF the skirt
are made engthwse the side are gathered in
the and kept In place by ravoled SILK ruches
The lace is laid In many horizontal rows over the
dat front With this model is worn plated waiscoar
over which habit basque is butOned. The skirt Is per-
fecty round the shadow OF train Is forbidden
The Laveuse (washerwomans oyersklrt Win reronsse
band a faYOrite accompaniment TO the shOrtGllted
skirt particularly for the picturesque archery ana lawn
| tennis costumes. Dark-Dlue Darege ue luxe unnmed
with 6cru Smyrna lace Is one fayOre style Another Is
made Of Robin Hood green French bunting plped WIN
sCn @ n R xoa S are Combined with six and pfncesse polo
naiscs made OF Armure or seeded nannes OF ght
Costume ia made altogether Of one material there
many OF stitching aud gilt dome-shaped buttons
the habit basque blouse waist must be closely ttng
the sleeves comfortably loose yet not too long aud all of
the trimming close ana compact without flying ribbons
or sashes To interfere with the game. Tho archery hat
suit the caprice or the wearer OstFcn leath
scarf of chenille gauze is careessy knOtted about the
crown, fastened with golden or silver arrow Loosely
fitting gloves Of undressed KID ana strapped shoes with
low broad English heels complete the conventional cos
tune for out-of-dOor sports.
AT seaside hotels and other fashionable Summer
sorts women look like nothing much as brilliant
graceful butterflies and bright birds OF the tropics ri
yallng the flowers in harmonious tints exquisitely
blending they win their title this never before
of being the flowers OF the human race. Delicate
batistes OF latest importation come in pale pure blue
rose-color earose the faint yeowsh glow seen In the
heart OF earose, pale rosy lavender and tender opal
tnts These dainty dresses are trimmed with cascades
and edgngs of lace and reversible ribbons In knots and
clusters IN charming contrasts OF color The creamy
white Of bar6ge and fine sewing silk grenadines are seen
made In the cosest The hues of pink, purple
gold and blue peep from beneath the transparent folds
as discreety as the in the dim haze Of morning
gray transparent evening dress suggests The Rainy