The Portland daily press., 1878-07-18
From Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

oPCoh
travelling dresses worn by American ladiess
Instead Of the partly worn, frayed-out dresser
that English ladies do not think too dowdy fo-
public carriages and boats, the American tray.
eller has trim, neat costume Of substantial
fabric and quiet color made in the simplest
manner, without any Of the ribbons, puffs and
flounces that are so easily disarranged on
long journey. Since the revival of short
dresses this costume has bseu perfected, and at
least one such dress is found in the;wardrobe of
every lady who goes out Of town during the
summer. Theimaterials best adapted for trav-
elling are all-wool goods Of light quality. II
there is thread of cotton the goods will cookie
with dampness, and indeed the pure wool Is
required for warmth. Mohair goods are also
durable, but they lack the softness that is now
liked, not so much forsdrspery, bat because the
soft stuffs ara pleasant to the touch. Plain
solid colors, or else bourette with rough threads
or the smallest checks are chosen. Dark myr-
tie green is favorite color for brides travel
ling dresses this season; there are also stylish
moss and olive green dresses in the fashionable
English homespun cloths. Plum color, brown,
and blue-gray suits of cameps-halr are very
popular, and the gray and dust-colored suits
are always worn. Nice qualities of bunting,
either plain or rough threaded like bourette,
make nice travelling suits for young ladies', but
these look best when trimmed with the same,
or else narrow braid Of the self COLOR instead Of
the gay galloons worn last year.
The best design for the travelling dress Is q
short round skirt with kilt pleated founce. or
else an entire kilt skirt. The short overskirt
has a retrousse facing In the washerwoman
style, both in the front and back. The waist
may be a habit basque, or else a princssse shape,
with the ends passed under scarf that con-
csals where the kilt skirt joins the waist; or If
preferred, it may have the familiar cut-away
coat and vest or the plested blouse. The lin-
gerie and jewelry must bs very neat and not
conspicuous. The shoes are buttonsd kid
boots an the stockings match the costume In
color. An English shaped round hat OF chip,
either black, gray or brown, is trimmed with .
grenadine scarf the color OF the dress. The
gloves of lsle-thread are very long on the
wrist; some ladies prefer long undressed kid
gloves for travelling even In midsummer, and
these now come in dark colors. A wide belt OF
ribbon or of morocco is worn with most waists,
though never II there is vest to the dress
From this belt hangs square bag OF velvet or
of morocco for holding the handkerchief, rail-
road tickets, purse, etc. Instead OF heavy and
expensive travelling bags of leather, many
ladies use the square canvas covered bags that
are strapped together with something like
shawl strap. Pockets of chamois leather for
holding money and diamonds are attached to
belts that pass around the waist, or else they
are passed over the shoulders. Many fanciful
shawl covers and straps are made by ladies, and
richly embroidered; plain ones sold at the fur
nishing stores are made of canvas, with large
pockets inside to cover the shawl perfectly.
When ladies do not care to provide them
axx,sft 81 -.
any short suit and protect it from dust with
travelling cloak of linen, mohair or pongee.
The simplest shapes are liked for these, such
as the long sloped sacque with sleeves, instead
est have the fronts cut double breasted, and the
neck finished by three Csrrck capes that do
not reach below the armholee. The incest
busters are.made OF ecru Indian pongee, aud
cost $20 those of mohair are IS to SIS; of
linen they begin at So so.
For short journeys linen fabrics are used for
travelling suits, such as fine French linen,
made with apolonaise and short skirt, trimmed
with a rutfie embroidered with Jacqueminot
red, black, and blue together. 4 novelty also
are suits of linen crash, such as Is used for
towelling. These are made with kilt, wash
erwoman overskirt, and basque, or q cut-awsy
coat and vest.
There is great variety In the light wraps
that are useful on summer evenings In the
country for throwing over the shoulder. Among
those of least weight are the thread shawls OF
cotton woven in shell figures of white, pink or
blue, or in mixture OF these colors. They
cost, according to size, from 81 80 to S4 80.
Those Of pale amber or cream color are sought
after by brunettes, and may be worn by all
complexions. The mixed black and white
thread shawls are liked by old ladies. Woolen
shawls woven in lace-lke patterns and bordered
with fly fringe are sold in large squares of sky
of the silky-looking Iceland wool are IS or S.;
these are popular in dark Jacqueminot red
with border of cream white knitted in lace
pattern. White Ice wool makes Clustering and
cool-looking summer shawls Shetland wool
in light open squares knitted by hand costs 81.
Among the handsomest stuff shawls are those
of thin bourette having cashmere colored
stripe of rich hues and rough threads alter
mating with stripe of black or white. These
cost So so.
Heavier shawls for afternoon drives are
squares of French cashmere Of the full width OF
the goods, fringed out on two ends. These are
effective in pale blue or rose old ladies choose
the French gray and light beige colors. Price
So. so. Still nicer than these are the fine soft
Chuddah shawls of exquisite light quality
woven in the odd little herring bone pattern
peculiar to shawls of this brand. These are
lower than they have ever been sold before in
ln this country, squares OF rich colors, dark
red, gray or pale blue, being offered fer $l2.
For travelling shawls the striped India long
shawls are more serviceable than almost any
kind, and these, too, are greatly reduced in
price, mAUy udVluR Uccu OhotOu AosoAy oe R1Vy
these are coarse, but of excellent coloring, and
the better qualities are sold for half the price
formerly given for them.
The Paris thread gloves fashioned like
kid gloves, long in the wrists, yet with regular
seams, like those of Balbriggan stockings, are
| excellent for summer wear. They come in
very fine grades, with long plain wrists but
toned by three buttons, for 81; those with four
buttons are $l.10, and with five, 81 20. The
long clocked gloves of the fine Paris thread are
C0ns0arpd atvsh without OQt6OQH. and
loose enough to pass up the arm like q gaunt-
let. These come in cream-color, beige, gray,
white and black. They cost S1.10 . pair.
| Those of cream and white are most used; the
| others grow lighter with being washed. Silk
| gloves also come with long open worked wrists
| s'clocked' as they are called. They are beige,
black, and mastic gray shades. and are far
| moro expensive than thread gloves, costing
! 81 40 pair.
Black net mits are now universally adopted,
| and are comfort in the way of both coolness
! and economy. Very pretty short lace gloves