The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1878-06-02
NEW ORLEANS FASHIONS
MOURNING COSTUMES.

those garbs which Indicate recent bereavo-
mpnt. and the same unwritten but recognized
laws fix the length of time during which it Is
respectful to the memory Of the dead to drape
ones self in certain sOmbre COlOrs, widow
usually wears bOmbazine and English Grape,
or she may use Henrietta cloth, drap dctc,
tamise cashmere or any other wooden goods
which are not ornamentally woven and have
no lustre but the addition Of Grape is cOnsid-
cred Indispensable. The latter fabric is
costly luxury, because it Is as readily Injured
by dust or damp, and Is generally worn both
sparingIy and carefully, Ladies' Of wealth
prefer their mourning robes and wraps en-
tirely covered with 1t; that is. n foundation Of
lustreless alpaca Is smoothly Oyerlaid with
the uuivering material, and no decorations Of
any description moro gay than a fold are
added to the garment, and these are often
omitted Jet black grOs grain siiksuf peculiar
richness serve for lighter elegant mourning,
and imperial serge, Turkish brlliantines,
opera alpaca, beaver and mOhair are intended
for dresses set apart for utility and dura-
bility.
BOURRETTE GRENADTNE
Is a favorite fabric of the present for mourn
ing purposes; 1t Is a CrOss-barrod goods in
checks, hasket-ClOth like. crepe bUii9te Is a
semi-diaphanOu9 silk, or silk and wool texture,
with crepe face, crepe bourrettH Is also sheer,
but Of heavier warp than the batisto, The
iron canvas mesh grenadine Is a desPrvedly
popular fabric for wear In mourning; plain
checked MexiCaiues are seen In the stores va
| ried by the striped and plaided, In patterns
more or less large. For less heavy mourning
| there are damask gauZes In set Or geOmetriCal
leaf and floral patterns.
RhACK BUNTING
| bIrL To nuI hn t,Iuin IlooIy
batste and organdy wash materials, is a wise
| selection for summer wear. TamiSe sells ut
GO cents to 81 50 per yard; Henrietta cloth
and English bOmba2lno cost from 80 cents to
| 81 80 per yard, according to finpness Of quail
| ty; French cashmere is priced ut from Is
| cents to So; Mpxicaine grenadines and hOur-
| rettPs at from 30 cents to 81 50; crepe bUtjate
at from 81 to 81 25' imperial serge at from
| 81 IS to 50 per yard, and silk for mourning Is
very fine and handsome nj 81 II, still hand
somer at 50 80 select assortment Of these
black goods may he found at the establish
ments Of Messrs, Levois and d. H. Holmes X
| Go.
STYLES OF MAKING.
| The princesse Is the favorite model for those
dresses. and an elegant one may be fashioned
| Of tamise or Henrietta CLOTH with cores or
divisions of English Grape applied, and drap-
cry Of the same above the trimming at the
| fine bombazine had an application Of
Grape, mounted on glaCo silk, shaped to the
lines of the figure down the front
Il drapery of Grape set in the centre
seam Of the back, below the line of the
hips and arranged gracefully in scarf fashion
at the bottom were two finely-laid knife plat
tngs of the bombazine. A Grape collar, divided
! In the centre of the back with n bow Of grOs
grain ribbon, finished the neck, and cuffs of
Grape, shaped to correspond with the collar
and Ornamonted with ribbon bow, completed
! the sleeves
The greatest care should be taken with the
outline of these plain dresses. They must be
| fitted with exnCtness, and their drapnry
should be arranged with the very perfection
| of skill, or they become an added grief both
| to the wparer and to the observer. This year
| black collars are not entirely discarded. but if
| n widow may wear white Cnp border we do
not see why she may not have touch of
| white at the throat and wrists. Grape not
| unfrcGuently pOisOns the skin under perspira-
ton and close pressure.
THE 'swALLOW-TAIL" BASQUE.
or that with the back conforming to the
model of n gentleman's dress-coat, is popular
| for the earliest tightening of first mourning
! vest Of Grape is usually accompanied by
! centre form Of Grape in the back; the edge Is
| fnishcdlwith piping, with Grape and buttons
Stimulating narrow ,l"ngthwise pocket-haps
| Dresses Of Mcxicaine grenadines for first
mourning are trimmed with plaitings Of the
| material; for lighter mourning, plating Of the
. material finishes the skirt, while French lace,
| h'ih 1i,RhI'F lh''i VI 'i',,iy FitIb'' tL'i,'7'
orW InitmG trimrnn H nra Strno
ai,,o ~ rIoir 'IrnGoiro or Loin,, n,o,Io
III % III i"s nd Ill IL ,,na
emf iIu n-yyo, inr,af FoT fravolino ~, rn,,ntrv
wnor thceo e,ite orn form"d If LrntinT mo-
. hair or como rtLor et,,,t n,ota ,ioI - 'I'0
i''''
THE BONNET
should be of Grape, and very plainly made;
! the Grape is mounted smoothly on silk and
| trimmed with folds. and bows made Of folds
of Grape Widows walls are from two to two
and one-half yards in length. and are worn
across the bonnet. enveloping almost the en-
tire figure, the hem being a fourth Of u yard
the back. For less severe lGOUrning. the vail
w n,'! , miu.L"p Oyer ''le I',J n W
| coIg NOT nTor Tho fann Tho GRAND vail hning
laid aside when the dress is made less sombre,