The New York herald., 1878-03-03
GRANT IN THE EAST.
Splendid Reception in Up-
per Egypt.
VISIT TO ABYDOS.
The Cradle OF CIviIizaton-T ombs and
Temples Centuries DID,

On tho morning OF the 18th OF January, that being
The third day Of our journey came 10 The town OF
Stout, or Assiout, US some call It. We nave a 'ice
Consul here, and tokens OF our coming had oeen
sent. could be soon by the nags which decorated
the bank and the crowd tho shore. Stout Is the
capital oil Upper Egypt and Is city OF 900 inhab-
tants The city distance back from the river
aud grew Importance as The depot OF much Of the
Caravan trade from Dartour. Upon arriving the
Vice Consul and his came board and were
presepted 10 the General Congratulations were
exchanged, and we offered our friends coffee and
cigars IN the true Oriental style. Tue OF our
Consul mere is WASH e Hayat. He Is Syrian and
large landed proprietor He Is grave elderly person.
who spoke oniy Arabic but his son had been educated
in Beyrout, at the mission schools, aud knew English.
We all drove to the IL parched fields,
through country that IN more favorable years would
bloom like garden. But the Nne is pad this year,
ind bad Nile Is calamity secona only 10 \ famine in
Egypt We rode into the aud through the bazaars
All the town seemed 10 know ot our coming, for
wherever we went crowds swarmed around US, and
We had orcO our donksys through masses Of Arabs
Egyptians Of all ages and conditions, some almost
naked-crowds cry ing for baksheesh pressing arii
res Of merchandise upon us. Tho bszaars are mar
row covered ways, covered with mating or loose
boards. enough 10 break the force oi the sun. Tho
stores are little cubby nolcs OF rooms, in front Of
which the trader sits and calls upon you TO buy. As
these avenues than feet At
best, you can Imagine wnat time We had in
making our progress Tho had 6ne
houses and mosques, but in the main II was
ike all iowns in Upper Egypt. a collection Of mud
hoveIs We rode beyond The town to tho tombs built
In tho sand aud climbed The limestone rock on
aonEeys. This was our first evidence of tue manner
OF sepulture the 0ldsn These desert rocks OF
limestone were tunnelled aud made Into rooms, and
here the mulnm cd dead found rest. The chambers
appointed or them large and spacious according
10 the means OF the deceased. Ia some that
wo entered there chamber, ante
chamber and sometimes connecting chambers There
were inscriptions on The walls, but they
had been deiaced Tho early Christians had deemed
It their duty obey the first commandment by re-
moving the representatives Of the gods that came IN
their way. Tho ceilings OF the tombs had been once
decorated, but modern Christians have deemed II
their duty deface them by hiring pistol snots
When you visit tomb aud the blue starsJand
astronomical forms that the aucients painted with
TO much care, II Is so cunning to Try the echo
by hrins you pistol Consequently tho roofs are
spotted with bullet marks. Hero also the
derers ior shelter. and you sec what The hres have
done What tho tombs may have been In tho past
when they came fresh from pious, loving hands you
can imagine. But what with ancient Christian icono
selling the graves Tor ornaments nothing remains but
empty limestone rooms Alhng with sand and few
hierogly phic memorials the walls
RECEPTION TO GENERAL GRANT.
We were hidden TO IN entertainment at the homo OF
VAST e Hayat, aud, seven being the hour we set
forth. We were all anxious about HrsI Arab en-
tcrtninmon and after some elaboration naval
concluded TO 60 in their uniforms. The Doctor
rodo ahead In tho carriage with General and Mrs.
Grant and the Consul General As the Doctor wore
his uniform and the others in plain dress he
welcomed by the awe stricken Moslems the King
OF America. Hsdden the Of US rode
behind on trusty and we'll beloved donkeys,
Handeu in uniform, followed by wondering crowds.
] suppose no taken for minor potentaie, as In
the Oriental eyes all that lace and gold could not be
gastsd on anything less than prnccy rank. But We
all had less attention, although could feel
that the uniforms the contre OF glory, and that
We shone with borrowed spleudor AS we came TO the
house OF wasf el Hayat found a real transiorma.
t,on scene Lanterns lined tho street, servants stood
on the road holding blazing Torches y Transparency
was the gate with the words, 'Welcome General
Grant," rhe ''Nn was turned upside down, but that
made dncroucc, ior the welcome in far Africa
made the heart Ihrob quicker As rode up torches
bazed rockets went up into the AR, various coored
lights were burned and we passed iuso the court
house over carpets and rugs OF heavy texture and
gorgeous pattern. Our host met the gates OF
his house welcomed US In the stately Oriental
way, kissing the Generals hand be claspcd It in
his Two hands, and then touching his own heart,
lips and brow. Here mot the Gov:rnor, and more
welcome still the Rev. l. X. Alexander and his wife.
MIR. Alexander Is Of the professors IN the mis-
sionary college and is under. the direction Of the
United Presbyterian Church. The dloncr came. and
u was regal in its profusion and spendoE should
sag there were least twenty courses, all well
served. When 1t concluded the son OF the host
arose and IN remarkably clear and correct English
proposed the Generals health. You viii allow me- |
sm sure, to give you fragment oil this speech.
"Lopg have heard aud wondered" said
The speaker, "at the strange progress which
America has made during this past century by
which she has taken the first position among the most
widely civilized nations She has quickly improved
IN Sciences morals and ar,s that the world stands
amszsd at this extraordinary progress which sur
passes tho swiitness OF nghtuing II is to tho
hard work OF her great aud wise men that
ali this advance imputed, those who havo
shown 70 the world what wise, courageous,
patriotic do Let all the world look
10 America and follow ncr exam ple--that nation
which has taken as the basis OF hor laws and the OBJ
ject OF her undertakings to MAINTAIN freedom aud
equality among her own people and secure them Tor
oiherz, avoiding ail ambitious schemes which would
draw her into bloody and disastrous wars and trying
by all maintain peace internally ami extsr-
nay. The only two great wars upon which she has
engaged were entered upon for pure and just pur-
posesihe first for releasing herself IRON the English
yoke aud erecting ber nd tho other Tor
stopping slavery ana strengthening the union OF tho
States; and woi We know that mainly under
God duo to the talent courage and wisdom Of HIS Ex
ceency General Grant tnatthc latter Of the two
prsos brought 70 successful issue" The speech
closed by a tribute TO the General and tho Khedive.
General Grsnt SAID In response that nothing In bis
whole trip had Impressed him as TINS unexpected,
this generous welcome IN the neart OF Egypt He
had anticipated great pleasure in his wish 70 Egypt
and the anticipation had been more than realized
Ho thsnxsd his most and especially the young man
WIN md anaknn of him with 40 lrh nrnias