New-York tribune., 1878-06-08
THE FASHIONS.
HINTS For JUNE.

OLD FASHIONS REVIVED.
Spring bonnets have already been described,
but great many changes have arisen III the latest
styles Skilled American fingers nave
toned down the too gay ornamentation OF Frencn
models and so there is gilt and glare OF tinse
picturesque eccentrcity has been developed In the
fashion of the GainsbOrOugh bonnet, payfuly chris
tened by belle the "Dilemma," the brm being slit 10
form two horns one OF which is intended to stand up
the other to fat and one is between the two horhS
of q dilemma to decide which shall be the most be-
coming other Summer bOnnets called the IncroydOte
are close copies OF the styles IN the days OF the
French Revolution. The strings pass over the square
crown and tie the wide brm down at the sides under the
chin cluster OF flowers is placed high upon the
crown or else graceful little bunch OF ostrich feaher
tips mods cOquettishly the front. All OF
the late shapes very much larger than those
exhibited at the early openings An exquisite
bonnet of the Incroyabe shape in black chip Is faced
with delicate straw-colOred satin; large loops OF
ribbon and pale yellow blossoms of the Souvenir dc NAL
maison conceal the strings that conne the brim at the
sides Another of the shape is similarly trimmed
with Jacquemi red satin and black crOopng Ostrch
tins The JacquemnOt roses and satin OF this color are
very fashionable but not becoming to bTunetes as
cardinal or strawberry red BrUnetes are advised to
wear the new large deep yellow Leghon bonnets OF tho
Vatican style The brim is faced with olive bronze
brown ctron black velvet and there are gilt beads
for n bordering the brms; the flowers are damask
rose-buds half hidden in mOssy foliage and dark
twigs The large Alsatian bow and strings are ribbon
corresponding in color with the velvet facing. For
blondes these bOnnets faced and trimmed with del
cate blue, cream-cOlor. masc JacqueminOt red and
graceful creamy feathers bend toward the front The
fine white French chip bOnnets Of the Waeau Ineroy
able Marie Stuart shapes very elegant trimmed
with white satin and edged with pearls, and
cluster OF cream and pink or perhaps
simply pandche OF curling, creamy ostrich
lraaIr Hot of
velvet or pearls is placed 10 rest upon the hair.
Some of the garden hats OF Charles l. are seen IN
Leghorn bent over the brow, and trimmed with wild
roses and strawberry vines twined about the
crown Others have clusters OF and pink roses
or a bunch Of creamy feathers halfconceang small
branch OF lovely red strawberries. These are for gar
den parties, dejeuners, croquet. Tho Peg Wellington
and Fra DayOo are successful rivals for driving aud
out-ottown use; broad-brmmed and picturesque, the
brms are faced with velvet satin shrred silk edged
with gold silver braid beads either gilt or amber
Clair de lune beads backbaed but Jet is equally
fashionable IN wide bands OF etted passemenerc edged
with velvet. and feathers tipped with jet The trimming
is black velvet, trioolored roses, clusters OF May
blossoms June roses, apple blossoms, and haw-
thorne and volets, or punches Of wild flow
ors composed Of marguerites, southernwood, Ivy
leaves and buttercups. Chip hats OF these
shapes come also In bright cOors which range from
lightest and putty to all shades Of brown They
are trimmed with beige coOrs TO match in satin ribbon
strings Alsatian bow placed on top. Black chip hats
OF these two shapes becoming when simply edged
with gold braid upon the black velvet facing and hav
ing long black ostrich plume floating the crown
and held in place by Jet and gold ornament. Fancy
sraws and chips for walking or travelling come In both
pale and dark beige shades. These hats are simply
trimmed with beige grenadine and ostrich tips
again. the edges are bound with velvet Of the same
color. and a velvet band surrounds the crown. Otne
H.. IA H.fI Nu Ia
spending with the Dress scarf Of gauze Feathers and
an ornament OF gilt jet two wings are used IN
place Of flowers For ladies who have passed their first
youth there are wde-bummed garden hats OF Leghorn,
elegantly trimmed with lace laid in close paits reach
ing TO edge OF the brm cluster OF feathers placed
high upon side is kept in place by ewelled clasp
The new embroidered wells are so Injurious 10
the eyes that they are not 10 be recommended.
Very long beigecOored scars Of silk grena-
dine and gauze also worn upon travelling
hats the front Of the hat creased behind aud
brought loosely around and then tied carelessly under
the chin the portion the front can be drawn down
over the face II required Blue silk grenadne long
scarfs are also fashonably described but are
less useful many accounts.
Country hats for young girls are made OF coarse straw
trimmed with full wreath Of wild flowers ard Wild
strawberries with natural leaves aud dark MOSES. An
other style shows the black roughandFeady coarse
straw hat dropping the face. with TIE back brlm
upturncd placed inside Is large Alsatan bow Of black
velvet or Jacqueminot red ribbon, and long ostrich
feather curls the crown The Tyroean shape for
children is new turned up side the Alpine peak
sailor jockey aud Scotch hats make up the remainder Of
the styles FOR the little people
High and strongly contrasting colors are abandoned
There Is simplicity In style, but not In orDamentaton
The short walking dress Is established feature
and hesitation longer exists since Worth has prepared
short dresses only for the Exposition. 1t must be
undersood however, that the skirt s made entirely
t1ts "A fla md md
the back 70 made full enough for panier. for short,
cnging sheath-shape skirt divested Of all classical
grace would be simply object for carcature IL II
not absolutely necessary for short stout ladies To sacr
themselves for comfort many OF them VIII stil
carry their trains the train be looped up in
the back az 20 preclude the necessity Of paner. The
short skirts are trimmed with plaings, pinked
ruches several narrow 1ounces, and bands edged with
fringe Naturally, these dresses IN the princesse
shape some have basque backs, others have the waist
nearly covered with nchu. The regular street tray
cling short dress has been described before with
the Killed skirt, vest aud cut-away Jacket These
are made OF Turkish brilantlne, beaver mo-
hair, serge, bunting. whatever equally excellent
fabric is proof against atmospheric changes and dust
II there be an objection to the killed skirt round
gOred skirt may be substituted, trimmed WIN thIec na
matted rufie the front breadth laid IN Wide tueks.
panel extending down each side, the dress Is maze OF
Two materials, and trimmed with ladder OF the daIke
shade ibis trimming Is also carried out on the cuffs
(or sleevcs collar, vest and pastlOns or reyers An IN
side oldfashiOned pocket 10 seWed IN at an opening
which can be left where the panel reyers Is laid on
al the side OF the skirt An ancient fashion has Dteh
resuscitated OF retlCucs bags carried ON tho arm
by strings Some exceedingly pretty velvet aud satin
bags been made by ingenious ladies' OF satin ana
velvet embroidered on each side with the monogram or
initial and cluster OF flowers. IL is done I'm beadwork
embOdying shades of beads I'm glass beads, or IN
shaded silks. The bottom edge ID finished win Dead
silk fringe.
The excess in embroidery has reached Its climax II
ia impossible 10 be more embroidered. more braided
over, and sewed over with silk floss. After safety
comes reactions 1t is we'll not to embroder upon rich
material itself The vest, cuffs, revcrs, collar ana
pockets are exqustely embroidered In such designs
..l.on lnnrna nnnrna oarlnndA OF