The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1878-09-04
[BJ w. G.I
A Tour to the RangeIey Lakes.
First SettIers-Squire RangeIey-LaIKes
and Mountains-The Great DANA
Sunday at the Hotel.

and Mountains-The Great DANA
Sunday at the Hotel.
NUMBER w.
Rangeley lake is 1911 feet above tide water.
Of course our first excursion was to Indian
rock. Captain Howard's little steamer leaves
the village landing usually at 2 o'clock, but
ours was morning trip. She runs to the
Mountain View House at the foot of the lake.
a distance of about ten miles, in an hour and a
half. A sail on placid lake has often been
described by ADLER pens than mine-I shall not
attempt it. This craft is smart little propel
ler With an awning; her captain is gentleman
and we'll fitted for his place. He has q neat
cottage Of his own on the lake shore. He sup
plies the post office at "Indian Rock with
daily mail from without, and all the camps and
cottages on the shores get their mail matter
from there. To reach Ineian Rock from the
boat landing passengers must walk over
"carry" of two miles. In crossing through the
woods we came to small clearing now nearly
grown over with trees and bushes, with low
dam, over which the noise of falling water
alone breaks the stiffness of deep solitude.
Here Squire Rangeley" had his mills, mill
house and potash factory. The fallen mill
stones, which have long since ceased their
grinding, are the only monuments lett here of
his business energy. He sawed all the lumber
necessary for the settlers buildings-not for
the profit, for the demand was small, but to
further the settlement of his lands. He also
ground their corn and grain at loss. There
were no other mills within 20 miles.
Indian rock itfelf is wide, fat ledge, i'm
portant for its situation and not for its
appearance. Before the dam below was
built, it was several feet above the water.
Now it is used for the landing place of the
steamer which takes US over the lake below.
It was the traditional meeting-place of the
Indians when they alone frequentad these
waters in the spring fishing season. They
came to procure their summer supply of trout,
which they dried in the smoke of their wig
vans. Here undoubtedly, on Sunday morn
ing Father Rosie gathered his Norrdgewocks
to hear his mass, for confession, for the settle
ment of all disputes, and to consult about their
employment for the week. They came from
above and below, and also from Cupsuptic lake,
which is not one of the chain, although its
broad outlet comes in here-it stretches away
northwest at right angles with Rangeley lake.
Now trout fishing is cerried on here by COR
poration.
Scamp Kenebago," on the opposite shore of
the outlet from the rock, is the headquarters of
the Oquassoc Angling Association. About ten
years ago party of Philadelphia and New
York sportsmen, of whom Jay Cook in his
best days was prominent member, made
annual visits to Rangeley lake and ponds. and
after few years, secured by lease and legisla-
ton, fishing rights, rights of the soil, and cor
porate rights. They have here quito a farm
with comfortable buildings. The whole estab-
lishment is in charge of Mr.. G. T. Richardson,
who formerly had small camp and clearing
here, which he had purchased of a hermit
named Smith. The association is now COM
posed of about seventy members. They own
forty Indian Rock boats. Their principal
building is 100 feet by 20. Its main room,
open to the ridgepole, is used for q
sleeping and sitting room, with rows of
single beds surmountad by musquito-bars, on
each side of the room like the stalls of the
Knights of the Garter, with their banners
above, in st, Georges Chapel, Windsor Castle.
In this room is a monster fireplace of stone in
a cornar, aud in the centre a long table with
papers and periodicals, aud in another corner
is a cabinet organ. Bat all these comforts are
not exclusive, they are open to the public at a
reasonable charge per day. There is separate
building for ladies. The business meetings of
the Association are held in New York. Their
entire outlay here is said to be $4,000 As this
is not fishing mouth there is but little COM
pany here at the camp.
Ga the arrival at the Rock, of the passsn-
gers by steamer from the head of the lake. q
similar steamer called the Oquossoc, Capt f.
G. Barker, leaves Indian Rock, the shrine of
the angler, that runs through the outlet to
Lake Mooselucmaguntc. Many of the rocky
mer residences, ("castled crags" like the banks
of the Rhiue) with boats at the landing below,
and an occasional sail boat at anchor. Hon.
VIM. P. Frye of Lewiston has neat cottage
facing Indian Rock inlet. On our route down
the lake we pass "Student's Island" on which
twenty five years ago, party OF college boys
from New England institution had camp,
and at the breaking up, they buried keg of
brandy for future use. This was found by the
river drivers the next spring, who took it to
the opposite shore now Brandy Point" and
drank it.
Capt. Barker was born at Saccarappa. He
has for several years been acquainted with the
lakes, mountains, and rivers OF Maine; former
ly serving as guide in summer, and as a hlnter
and trapper in the fall. With one companion
he went through the wilderness to Q1ebec. A
few years ago he lassoed moose in this lake
and with help from others, landed him and tied
him for while to tree, and then released
him. From his steamer he pointed out to me
Bald mountain at the east, Bemis mountain at
the west, Kenebago and Deer mountains in the
northwest. In nearly the same direction we
see conspicuous mountain called CamePs
Rump, part of which is in New Hampshire
and part in Maine-Canada line is within sew
en- miles of its base. Capt. Barker described
the situation of "Parmachenee lake, in the ex-
treme west corner of the state. Its outlet is
the Magalloway river, which enters the Andro-
scoggn, soon after that river leaves Umbagog
lake. We also see Mount Bigelow in the north,
on Dead River; so named for Maj. Timothy
Bigelow, who was one of COL Benedict Arnold's
officers, in the perilous march up the Kennebec,
in the expedition against Quebec, in the fall of
1775. There is tradition that Maj. Bigelow
climbed this mountain to see it he could dis
cover the St. Lawrence. 1t is certain that it
b as borne his name ever since. 1t is mentioned
as are the 9th IT islands l have named, in the
journal of DR.. Senter of Rhode Island, who
was surgeon in Arnold's army. While on
Dead River, he says under date OF OCTOBER
18th, 1775 (the same day that Mowatt burned
Falmouth) "This day Major Bigelow returned
from an advanced party into the wilderness in
quest of provisions, and crossed the lake, four
miles. This was very beautiful situation for
the wilderness. A large mountain lowering
boldly on the northwest, with more at greater
distance in the south and southwest Those
must have been the mountains seen from our
steamer.
The length of this lake is about twelve miles.
We are now landed at the western end of the
"Great dam," where is the "Dam camp"
consisting of two large low buildings-these
with barn, are all the buildings here. The
newest of the camp buildings is occupied by
the agent of the owners, Mr.. Thomas McBord,
and the men employed on repairs, and in build
ing sawmlll over the saw on platform tnat
is manufacturing lumber for that purpose.
The camp is open to visitors, and we obtain a
good dinner, although there are no females in
Che establishment. We are surprised at the
extent and strength of the dam. The i'm
mensity of the structure in such place leads
/ us to iook for the habitatons of the people
who built it; but one only is to be seen. The