Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-10-01

StlH II Is much more suitable 10 restrict the
wreath 10 one appropriate n over than 70 mix
IL of several some OF which are aSSocia,ed i'm
40 way win the traditions Of The bridal cere-
hony. FOR blondes We should suggest that
me ~Ieaih De always made OF the small white
bridal roses. But IL is in the house dressing of
young girls that they have the as>f opnOrt1
nity lusi now To display their ind ldusl taste.
and this fortunately leads them to the exer
else OF their skill and the cultivation OF their
industry. The newest and most elegant home
dress consists Of pain dem-tra med skirt
and a pulonaiSe, both enriched with artistic
embroidery executed in crewel and in forms
which are as nearly copies from something I'm
nature as poSsleie-iong stalks and Stalky
noWeIS, Sn2ll Terms, thiStleS, grasses and
weeds upon which insects are crawling or set
ting or floA which they are .iyiGg. 4 girl OF
original ideas, who can draw her oa'n design,
or begin and 20 on without set CcsiSn and
with good results. is in the ascendant, and dis
plays her work with no little pridn.
Is pos, ibe that cutting oil the trains or
REDUCING their length, and making the party
dresses SO pain and simple, viii Su -geSt 10
| some oi The girls another idea mos. approori-
s.s ats 20 me hard times, and thar is the getting
Ilu oi carriage bills when they ~ II balls and
| parties. Tie number of young men who co
alone 10 balls, sociables and other evening en-
i1 teLtainmehts l has been rapidly increasing for
Years paSt, and Is now general subject OF re-
marx. noubt.ess IL is parity due - the grow
| ing $50 a. ion of men ard women consequent on
cluo ilte aud other causes. but il also largely
| due TO the absurd necessity Imposed unef,
| young nen OF providing a carriage at an ex-
| pense of three dollars, whenever they invite
| ter or party, and this added I'D other ex.
penses swellS the amount to a prohi oitory size
Let girls turn TO, and make their own dresses
In pretty simple fashion let them discOur-
age the hiring OF carriages. the purchase OF ex.
pensiye bouquets. and refuse restaurant sup
pers, at least beyond the moderate dish OF
oysters, the cup OF chocolate, or plate Of ice
cream, and they will see marvellous change
in the social thermometer, gir stock will 60 up.
MOURNING STYLES.
One OF the changes that has taken place in
A IN Erfls A NJ haFa
d0nment OF crepe as dress trimming. This
has been caused partly by modification Of
pubnc opinion in regard TO the necessity Tor
wearing mourning at all, and partly by the in-
PRODUCTION OF a great variety of dun, black
materials, which can be made SUN iriently ex-
pressiye without the addition OF a ia brio which
IS iran, costly, and diSagreeabe TO wear.
Doubtless, also. the complications Of the mod
ern costume have had an influence in setting
aside atIimmlng that soon presented a worn
and shabby appearance, and, in accordance
with the etiquette of custom, had 10 be re-
moved and reIlaced by a less sombra material
alter SIX months had passed or course there
are persons Who still adhere TO their traditions
and reigl0CSly wear heavy crepe during the
prescribed length OF time. But. at least, it is
not essential, and is rarely seen, except In the
case of widows.
The finest mourning styles are now diStin-
guished by simplicity of design, ald the use of
pure iabries, such as an exquisite quality of
camelS hair, black Chuddah wool iiae CASH
mere, and heavy, luStreless silk. In the first
stages. the woolen fabrics are made UP with
Oul dnN lDlttlilAturc OF SILK or trimming.
Black velvet, il must be remembered, is not
mourning neither is figured woo, figured silk,
silk with gloss, feathers, lace or any orna-
ment except jet, and this is used very sparing-
| lngly, and not before the second stage of the
mourning period. During this stage, how
| ever, white India wool, or camel's hiir NAV be
used used, LOT indoors, as wrapper, for example.
| laced with dull black silk, or trimmed with
| black ribbons. But the embroidery. ii any be
used, must he executed in wool and not i'm
| silk, and instead OF lace, crepe GSse must be
rtSfS
A mourning costume should be quite plain
| with the exception Of the skirt. which may be
| nounce0 with knife pleatings of the material.
| Inc basque or polonaise should be cut per-
| fectly smooth over the hips, made high and
close al the neck, with close fitting sleeves,
reaching nearly 10 the wrist. The slight
drapery should be arranged low upon the SKIRT
| at the back, and the front finished simply with
stlIchlng, mplng. and just enough small but
| tons, covered with the material for fasten-
ing. The only trimming admitted around the
| bottom OF the polonaise or oyerskirt is flat
| BIAS ioid, or several narrow folds OF the mate
| rial, stitched on. The bonnet should be of the
| small cottage shape, covered with the mate
| rial oi the dless, the trimming, folds and BOWS
| OF the same, or crepe, as preferred. Ii crepe,
| lhe vail, also, should be crepe, but il the
! material Is used, a vail OF dull liSse or thick
| gauze may be Worn. These close forms are
| very becoming TO We'll rounded figure, and
| reduce somewhat excessive ep5ynDOipt
| 1he outer garment Is a long, close fitting
naletot- made very plainly, and without visi-
pc buttons or button holes, the fastening
II
| finishing il al the throat.
When a widow begins 10 re enter society she
wears the luStreleSS black silks, without Trim
ming or ornament OF auy kind save 4 thick
! ruching of black lace at the throat. Hay
| lewtlfy may be small solitaire pearls, or diat
moncs set in jet, but She does not para lie
snowy let ornaments, and hair jewery is ~
| longer fashionable.
The best and most useful way TO make
! heayy Slik second mourning dresses, is with q
! demi-trained skirt trimmed Only round the
| bottom Main haSHnp "a nj
| fdrcy styles are out OF place.
I AUTUMN TRIMMfSGs.
| 1here is character in every thing this sea
Son, from baby's bibs TO bonnet ribbons. The
| lailef nave made decided hit, by departing
| from the gToS grain standard, which has OBJ
| tanned so long, and blooming out in an the
styIes SfaIesry oot ot =, Satln and many c9lors The
with a reversible side in contrasting color. or
| anotIer shade Of the same color. But there
| are revivalS of the lowered ribbons of a cen :
| tury ago, very different, however from tha
| designs OF those days. These are also exc
cuted upon satin, the palest shades and look
| cuted hand painting. These ribbons range
from two to three dollars per yard, and onIu a
tely smGH quantity Is used They are very
| effective upon satin bOnne;s of the ground
| shades, the remainder of the trimming ostrich
| feathers 10 match.
New roses are made without foliage, in diff
| ferent shades of silk, satin. or velvet from
| almost black TO blood red. Thedarber stades
pfedomln2te, and when used they are ass, .
clated WIN shaded foliage. But the fines,
Things In artificial flowers are tie lJng fun
! cordonS OF vivid autumn leaves IN all the col.
ofS OF an American Landscape and the won
Geffully natural reproduction of branches OF
Inc ndzel and chestnut, ;he bursting pod.
| showing the shell or kernel beneath, and tho
stems and leaves being SC faithfully copied
that IL would be difficult to iiSlin gliSh be-
! tween the real and the imitation. Fringes
! paSsenentarieS, and the like, are fui the time
! being under cloud. ClOaks are not ey an I'm.
| lshed with buttons; they are fastened -sitb
clasps, copies OF medieval ornaments. Dresses
| are universally trimmed with embroideiv
| which is applied il not wrought upon tn
| fabric, or the combinations of plain color
| with figured armure or brocade
An elegant dress made recently abroad. and
sent over, was composed of lees-of- wine satin.
| and trimmed with facings aud bands of gold
| embroidery. executed In fine lines of gold
Unread and red and black silk. This, at the
neck and sleeves. was laid over with "mecb-
I'm" lace, and this over fine pleatings of creme
ttSSe Ihe train was plain satin, the looping
OF the slight drapery gracefully effected by a
oand OF the embroidery. Persian or MANY
col0red embroidery upon velvet is sometimes
used in conjunction with black cathedral silk.
Inc gold medal awarded at the Paris EXPOSE
ton for dresses, was for lavender silk, EN-.
pIoldered upon satin, with silk of the same
shade MRS Mackay, OF bonanza fame bought
tne nnest set OF diamonds exhibited at a cost
OF about one hundred and Seven,y-fve Cl75,0OO)
nousand dollars. JENNIE JUNE.
SELLING HIS WIFE's WOODEN LEG.-Mrs.