The Kenosha telegraph. [volume] (Kenosha, Wis.) 1860-1888, 1878-08-01
GRAPE CULTURE.

A1GAI SO1-I NE
The following brief, practical and
condensed rules for the management of
grapes were given by Dr. Whiting at
the Farmers Institute, held some time
since at Saginaw, Mich:
The soil best suited for the grape is
decomposing shale, but any good clay
soil, thoroughly drained will do.
The ground should be carefully pre-
pared, and only well rotted manure
fused
Decomposing turf is one of the best
fertilizers; when it can be obtained no
other will be required.
The vines selected for planting
should be good one-year old layers or
cuttings. They may look small, but
will make the best vines.
Good culture is as necessary to the
vine as to corn OF cabbage.
Mulching and watering the first year
should not be neglected if drouth is
excessive. One good soaking is better
than many sprinklings More water
can be saved with a hoe than can be
put on with sprinkler.
In planting cut the vine back to two
buds, whatever it's strength OF age.
Summer pruning consists in pinch
ing off weak and struggling shoots i'll
order to confine the sap to the main
branches.
The first Summer allow but one
main shoot to grow. In the Fall after
the first frost, cut all the Summer
growth back within two buds of the
ground.
The second year confne the sap to
two branches, and in the Fall cut back
to three buds each.
The third year, if your vine has
made vigorous growth, Il few stems of
grapes may be allowed to mature, but
better take off all the fruit than to suf-
fer too much to grow.
Too heavy bearing while young will
weaken the vine for all future time.
The trimming now depends on what
kind Of trellis you wish to cover.
After you have obtained a good Wig
orous root you can make it grow i'll al
most any place OF shape you wish, by
keeping the branches desired tied up,
and all the others pinched back.
Each year a few Of the strongest
branches should be allowed to grow
as bearers Of fruit the following year.
In trimming cut away as much Of
the old wood as possible, and save the
new, as all the fruit buds are on the
NEW wood.
You can easily tell how much to cut
away by holding your new wood up to
the trellis and imagine branch with
three stems of grapes for each bud.
If you do not cut off enough in the
Fall, and you find that the vine is 60
ing to be too thick, don't fail to attend
to it when the new shoots are from
three to six inches long, in the Spring
or while in blossom. AS soon as the
fruit is set examine the vine, spread
out the new wood so that each bunch
of grapes will hang free and clear;
pick off all the small stems of fruit
and tasten the vines securely, so that
the wind will not destroy your crop by
breaking the young and tender branch
eS.
When the wood has grown SO that
there are three leaves beyond the last
bunch of grapes examine the vine, Sc
lect the branches you wish to save for
fruit bearing the coming year, and
keep them tied up until they have
grown as long as you wish to make
use of. The ends of the other bearing
branches should be pinched off as they
reach this point, "three leaves beyond
the last stem of grapes"
Break off oil shoots and Iaterals as
fast as they make their appearance.
but OH no account injure the leaves OIL
the bearing canes.
The fruit will color but not ripen il
the leaves are destroyed.
Grapes for Fall and Winter use
should be picked as soon as ripe, and
when perfectly dry packed in fine, dry
sawdust Select your box or jar, COW
er the bottom with saWdust, then lay
ers Of grapes and sawdust alternately
until full. Keep in the coolest place
you can find free from frost, until
wanted for use.