The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1878-08-11
THE DRESS or WOMEN.


shape OF gowns for women For long trno
now the dress has been worn very tight. and it
cannot be denied that to all good feminine ilg-
urcs at least. such garment is moro becoming
than some of the styles II replaced. and, inas-
much as ii partially serves the ends OF both
beauty md utility. il seems u pity to discard IT,
unless something very much better Ia substi-
tuted The rumOrs are to the effect that the
pancr worn in the time of Marie Antoinettc,
and which causes far from graceful enlarge
mont ut each side OF the hips. is TO bc evolved
for modern use.
There may be no foundation for tho rumora
which 50 agitatc the world OF nlantuamakors.
or. rather which fashion reporters represent
as occupying the thoughts OF the beautiful
craft at whose head the great Worth stands
but they are significant MS showing the tyranny
OF fashion," about which writer in the Corn
hH Magazine troubles herself. and at which so
cial satirsts and social reformors havo 80 long
beaten that it has become pretty throadbare
But the English essayst says some things
worth listening TO. Her purpose il to inquire
whether tho civilized world cannot by some
gigantic struggle and common protest release
itself from the thradom of modern fashion,
and obtain degree OF the quiet and nxity In
the matter Of costume which has blessed or
cursed the Chinese for q thousand years She
socks for some peaceful haven. safo from the
ceaseless perturbatons of this disturbing infu
cnce in which those may find rest who are now
dragged reluctantly with the current Of fashion.
or for such as. affecting to defy It. are wallowing
helplessy in the trough Of dowdysm."
Countless shiftings in the form Of the clothes
OF mon being incompatible with the grave con-
Germs Of life. the masculine fashions now change
but little. and Il coat, provided ii IL not too
much iniurpI ly bp fpr
Tho alterations in its shape are trining. and
man need not make himself an object Of re-
mark by ncgecting to keep up with them. II
he wishes to dress Of an evening. there II only
one sort OF suit for him to wear aud he may
cndue himself in the same garments Just so
long as they do not present a shabby appear
ance The costume is not very expensive. It Is
easily put on. It is invarable. and 1t may be
worn for n great length OF time without giving
him n look Of oddly. something Offensive 10
the ordinary modern idea. Once no has ar
raycd his manly form in II black swallow-tail
coat. buck trousers and waistcOat q clean shirt,
properly blackened boots. and n white cravat.
he Is dressed for any society. and looks as well
n the ncNt man. provided nature has gifted
him with figure on which the tailor can make
clothes hang effectively. And even If he is a
rawboned and awkwardy built person. he gets
on vol enough. and has 10 occasion TO trouble
himself about his garments.
But how can women. Of whose attention and
money 80 large part is spent on the nero
fashionng Of clothes. bc relieved from tho OPP
prcssion which now weighs SO heavily on them
This is the question asked by the writer In the
CornhN Reri@r. and her answer II that " the
harbor Of refuge 10 be provided one day for that
cultured elite among women who are beginning
10 feel the tyranny Of fashion intolcrablc must
...N
where on the contrary. it finds its securest
anchorage in use" That u.s. when women have
once found a fashion Of dress which II becom-
ing to them. they must. II they would be free
stick to IT, in spite OF Worth and his satellites
and content themselves with such changes of
color and ornament a. their individual tastes
prompt
The cost OF n woman's dress. as regulated by
tyrannous fashion. has. in truth. become very
onerous No lady who has not Il good deal Of
money TO cxpend on her clothes can now afford
10 20 into fashionable society with any fire.
quency. while man can put i'm an appearance at
bals. parties. dinners. AMI receptions daily and
/ nightly without heavily intrenching on q com
paratvely small income. Yet women are now and
must always remain the centre and the mould
crs Of tho most elegant and refined society. and
wealth. as we we'll know. cannot always confer
on it, possessors grace. wit. or cultivation.
Therefore, ii is great misfortune II fashion
shuts many women out of sphere i'm which
/ they could exercise n beautiful influence nnl
which by nature Rnl requirement they are we'll
/ fitted 10 ad0rn.
The later fashions not only frequently and
radically change the form Of feminine dress
but they also so make their law that tho ma
terial Of which it is composed IS cut into hun
dred pieces. thus preventing any subsequent
alteration Of the shape Of the garment. W. do
not leave oven To the moth its proper work bui
begin with our own hands to fret our gar
ments before they are made. Our damnsks and
hrocades are all hacked 10 death cut remorscless-
/ Is through leaves and flowers and the stalk Join
ed irrclevantly 10 the heart Of the rose. and tn,
nutlmtcd bud TO the thorn Then comes the
trimming which involves the chopping Of
the rich stun into bits. the whole work rrquir.
INK great outlay Of time Oh the part OF the
seamstres-, and the result being the destruction
OF the material for any except present use
whereas In the old days gown so expensive
and so elegant could have been brought out
year after year. and perhaps handed down t.
another generation.
This English protestant against the rock loss
tyranny of fashion and corruption Of the nrt of
dress sccs no other way Of escaping from tn,
thrnldom and curing the evil than that Of fol.
/ lowing the simple principles of dress as estah.
lished by the Greeks and which oven now gov
ern the costumes Of the Oriental peoples. tn,
dross of the Indian ayah. in which a scarf eight
yards in length Is made to form. without pin OF
thread. garment incomparahy graceful and
convenient, and that OF all ranks in ancient
Hellas. offer extreme or typical examples oil
this employment Of easy means to admirubl,
7 and varied ends She then proceeds 10 indi
cate the character of the dress with which she
. would wage war against the modern fashion
auioorats The garments should bo adapted /,
the lines ~ the human frame. the weight fall.
ing whore it is least oppressive. and every or
/ gan ana muscle being allowed its free develop
/ mcnt. 50 that the advantage of the wcarer
would b" first suhseWed. They should be pui
I together according 10 established rulo aud =,
as to receive chara tor and not impose II on
the person. They should be oaey To- wash
where the material admitted If such pnrinca-
/ tion, ana should not occupy an undue sutcc in
wearing. keeping. or carving about Finally
the dress should be removed from vulgar
comparison 10y association with some great and
enduring monument OF the past. associat ions
whose revival urnsaupa would la, falt ~ ia,