The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-01-26
GRANTS EASTERN TOUR.
Our EX-President Near the
Crater Of Vesuvius.
OVERLOOKING POMPEII.
A Romantic Picnic on
the Lava.
TALL A N LIFE.
Glimpses Of Social and Political
Life in Naples.
AN INTERESTING JOURNEY.

NAPLES, Dec. 90, 1871
We came to Naples hoping 10 and sunshine, but the
Consul tolls that there has been such weather for
many 1t would be even cold In our Indictment
New York. rejoice in the possession OF capacious
ulster, which brought into tho Mediterranean against
many protests, but which has boen useful compan
ion. Poor Naples looks especially cold These poor
souls need sunshine, and they arc almost too cold TO
beg So much has been written about Naples that
may BIO spared catalogue Of its attractions. On
anchoring in the harbor the General aud wife andod
and made tour OF the city. There was the summer
palace, in which royal persons live for few weeks
every year and whose grounds are open only by por
mission. There ID the castle OF San Martin, an old
monastery now turned into a museum and barracks
We spent good hour in looking at It's curiositics,
which did impress either curious startling
"This," said the guide, ISIS tho picture of Mr.. So
aud So, who generously gave this museum to
Naples" SWELL" said the General In
aside tone, 'rf had museum like this !
would give it to Naples or whoevor would take It."
There a beautiful chapel, In which tho Lord Is no
longer worshpped, but which was gcm OF elaborate
decoration. There burial ground Of the monks,
surrounded by marble pillars, upon which skulls were
engraved. ln the centre was one larger skull, grin
ming, and tho temples whitening laurel wreath.
Around this cemetery were the coisters under whose
arches friends the monks, used to walk and road
and mediate. with such suggestions the skulls
would inspire II was ghosly enough, and there was
a comfort In turning from It to the balcony, few
steps or which overlooked the brow Of hill, showing
Naples beneath and Vesuvius beyond, and the shin
ing sca--an overpowerng picture OF lie ana beauty
and natura We stood the balcony and looked
down from dizzy height, and thought how much
in with truo religion 1t was to worship
God az we saw Him here in His mojesty and glory and
not over stones and bones and sights OF evil omen.
vEsUvius FROM NAPLgs
There far above was Vesuvius and wo were impa-
ticnt for the ascent 1t late whom arrived,
but tho General with military promptness, gave
orders for the march next morning We stood on the
deck and studied the old mountain, and picked
out tho various objects with telescope and did an
immense amount OF reading on the subject The vol
cano was In lazy mood, and not alive to the honor
of visit from the exPresdent of the United statcs
for all he deigned give-us was lazy puff OF smoke.
not spark. a fame or cinder. suppose the old
monster aristocrat and conservative. and said
s'What do care for Presidents or your new Repub
ucs9 have scattered my ashes over Roman Re.
public have lighted Casar's triumphs AMI thrown
my clouds the path of Brutus rcsh from Cnsar's
CORPSE Why should set my forces in motion to
please party OF Yankee s,ghtseers even If one
of them should BIO famous general and ex-
ruler o. Republic2 have looked upon Hannibal
and Caesar, Charlemagne and Bonaparte. have
crations who worshipped Jupiter as have admon-
ished generations who have worshipped the Cross
| am The home OF the gods, and II you would my
power look my and ask OF the ashes that
Der Hercuaneum and Pompoii." So the stubborn old
| monster gave US fash OF welcome, only
| smoky puff now and then to Jtell US that ne q
monster all the timo il he only chose to manifest his
| awful will. So stood upon the deck in specula-
| ton and some of us hoped that there would be
eruption something worth describing The Gen.
| eral was bent climbing 10 the very summit and
| looking into the crater, and with that purpose we
| started in the morning
THE ROAD TO THE MOUNTAIN
We should have gone earlier, but many high people
| In uniforms, commanding one thing another, had
10 come board and pay. their respects. 1t was ten
before we under way, the General and party In
| the advance with our driver. whom We have called
the Marquis, on the box and Mrs Grants maid bring
| ing up the rear We drove all the way. You will
derstand our when remind you that the Bay Of
Naples is something like horseshoe. On one side OF
tho shoe is the city, the other is vcsuvius. There
| fore to reach the mountain wo have drive around
the upper circle OF the SHOE The shores Of this bay
arc SO populous that route seemed 10 be
| unuous town. We only knew that We were passing
the city limits when the guard stopped our carriage to
| ask II there was anything on which we were anxious
to pay duty. As there was nothing but q very modest
luncheon kept on, rafting through narrow, stony
streets. Bcggers kept us company, although from
| some cause another thore were not many
supposed Perhaps 1t was the good government
which we are told Is dealing severely with
beggars, or more likely it was the weather, which,
us l remarked, worry cold and seems TO
have taken all ambition out Of the people, Still we
were not without attentions in this way, ana from
streets aud byroads woman or man, or sometimes
n blind man led by boy. would start up and follow US
with appeals for money. They wero starving or their
children wero starving, and lest We might not Under
stand their tongue they would pat their mouths or
breasts to show how empty they were. For starving
persons they showed great courage and endurance In
following our carriage. Tho General had assort-
| mcnt OF coins, and, although warned In the most
judicious against encouraging pauperism, he
did encourage it, and with SO much success that be-
| fore he was halt way up the mountain he was a
pauper himself to the extent of borrowing pennies
from somc of his companions to keep up the demands
| upon his generosity.
Aspects OF xEAroLIrAy LrrE.
What we observed In this long ride around tho
horseshoe was that Naples was very dirty, very
happy ana a very picturesque town. We learned that
the supply OF rags was iDexhaustibe. never knew
what could be done with rags until saw these lazza-
ronL Fuzzy to have grown rags, as sheep grows
his necce and yet there was no misery In their aees-
happy ar,y IDLE Isheyed' sKeping sTn1 ,y
misery and woe which one sees SO often Ia London.
take IT, therefore, that begging Is an amusement an
ministry, aud not u recessity-that Tho Naples
beggar goes out TO his work ike any other
Iaborcr. He Is not driven to u by tho
gaunt wolves hunger and disease. One scamp.
gray-Uearded scamp, too, who followed us was
baker. VINO madc ana sold loavcs He was standing at
his coun ter trading when carriage hove IN sight
Al he threw down his Ioavcs and started alter us
IN iuil chase, moaning and showing us tongue and
beating his breast and tolhng US no was starving.
Wen, when he received his coin he went 70 MS store
aud presume began to hagglc over his bread That
CON was clear gain. He was not beggar, but spec
ulator He went into the street ana made a ltte
raise Just as brokers and merchants al home go into
the s'srec and Try M In stocks. The Nca-
poItan specuator wiser man Than his New
York brother. He ran no risk Even II he did not
gain his coin the run did him good, and his zeal gave
him tho reputation OF an active business man.
learned also on this trip TO repress my appetite for
maccironi We saw maccaroni IN all forms aud under
ali Stances dangling In the wind catching tho
dust. Give me dish with Tue most suspicious
anteccdens rather than this maccaroni from Naples.