The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1878-09-29


designs In trimming widths from three to
five inches-for seventy-flye cents O yard !;
those at 81 are very handsome, and the best
qualities are sold for 81 So. These are all
very seldom brought to this country. The
French laces from thirty cents upward are
considered good enough to be folded up In
small flat pleatings: their pretty patterns are
edge be good, or else the pressing necessary
| to fiatten the Deats will wear 1t off.
A novelty In white torohon lace Is calico
double-meshed torchon, and Is without
with scallop to finish the edge. This Is
stylish trimming for cambria dresses, and Is
used for stuffs OF Light quality, 1t Is exceed
ingly strong and is preferred to all other
| trimmings for petticoats either OF muslin or
of flannel. Tt is 40 cents a yard.
! Duchesse lace Is the most popular OF the
white laces for trimming evening dresses OF
| silk or gauze 1t Is also used for parasol coy
coliarettes, and finally for mitts.. A hand
some set of wide collar and cuffs OF duchesse
lace costs from S25 upward.
MADE-uP LACE COLLARS
AS the fashions of collars change so soon
ciennes edging, and make FOL, themselves
ladies who object. to buying the duehesse
collars and cuffs use narrow Valen-
pretty sets at small expense. The founda-
ton Of the large collar is cut out OF very sheer
muslin or else white wash net. On this the
|
rows, or else IN punches formed of two rows
of the gathered edging headed by narrow
velvet ribbon, either black, blue or rose color.
Eight rows of lace arranged in four clusters
make the collar deep enough; two rows are
then made to stand up around the neck for
finish to the collar. The cuffs are similarly
made.
The effective church lace. Or Irish point, as
1t is also called Is very popular Tor collar i
lace Is very sheer fine muslin cut out in de-
signs, and the edges orerwrought. Collar
cites OF this lace are made In vest shape, ana
cover the long front OF the basque, The
edges are caught together by tiny punches OF
! flowers or else by knots Of ribbon. They cost
from S15 to $40.
Neck ties Of white muslin laid in long close
folds are made very slender, and are crossed
on the bosom, or else they are long enough to
reach straight down to the end of the basque.
They are edged with Valencennes lace, and
!, have insertion to match. They are also made
of black or white crepe lisse for mourning,
FRENCH FANC1Es.
Cheched and plaid foulards are much used
in Paris as trimmings OF bareges and or
dresses there are knife-pleated frills OF blue
and green plaid foulard. These frills are
pinked on each edge. There are also vests,
plastrons, and chemisettes OF checked silk Tor
pleated vest OF checked ecru and green fotl-
lard A band Of the foulard trims the tunic
and edges or borders the kilt pleating on the
lower skirt. A coarse yet soft rustic straw
: the checked silk. More elaborate dresses
have o curtain oyer-skirt opening over, q
: checked pleating. These styles will, it is said,
, prevail In the autumn and winter.
I For fanciful short costumes for Out-Of-dOOI
i fetes and for short walking dresses Worth
has revived the casaque. This casaque is @
= ii6iats elese fitting coal in Louis Quinze style
with large pockets, large pearl buttons, and 9
: lace iabot. The easaque falls 80 low Oh the
skirt that an over-skirt Is not required.
, The I,rtanon hat, with Large bow IN front
! made of plaid or striped nabob gauze, is worn
! in Paris with paner costumes.
! Another revival predicted for the autumn
: Ia that of the pleated polonaise with q yoke
a and very wide belt. This has been introduced
, abroad under the name of the blouse casaque
1t lis a loose, easy garment peculiarly adapted
, for summer dresses, but Is already being
made up for cooler weather In India cashmere
trimmed with Russian lace aud silk embro
!, derry. There are also shirred blouse casaquet
y without pleats.
Satin and brocade are the materials mos
I used at present for making handsome dresses
a that will be also worn in the wiuter. There
6 are new heavy yet soft brocadeS with the
ground woven insmall armure patterns.
n The newest short dresses have three kilt
: nleated hounces crossing the back aud cover
q ing the back breadths from belt to foot. Il
front there Is an apron wrin11led across ant
one wide knife-pleated hounce at the foot
/ Sometimes this short apron takes the washer
i woman shape, and sometimes IL is merely
n pieAted scarf.
q The dresses made Of Madras plaids and o
}, bandana handkerchiefs have become yer,
q popular In Paris. A small umbrella Is alst
S covered with these gay PLAID cottons 20 mater
,, the dress. The handle Of wood Is carved at tn
! end to represent the head OF pugdOg.
J. new Partisan fancy Is that OF wearing thu
: boutonniere, or small bouquet, not In th
n waist, but on the left sleeve, between tn
InEH md ia rl.ny ihtnr hNn
# der.
v Satin or velvet bodees, known as revolu
ton bodices, are worn with white muslll
n skirts. These are In coat shape, with revers
s and cape covered with white lace, as, Ior III
: stance ruby satin with Venetian point lace Q
d the old Venice guipuIe. There is first whit
=, silk petticoat. over which Is q white muslit
q nleated skirt, and washerwoman overskir
It bordered broadly with ruby satin and whit
t lace
% Black velvet bracelets are revived to wea
a, with half long elbow sleeves. They are fast
" ened with square buckles OF paste or OF dia
t. monds. and ara ornamented with the serpen
e and lizard brooches that are now 50 popular
d These bracelets and rocOCo buckles are II
keeping with the black lace nitts and coun
try toiiettes known as Trianon dresses.
Monograms that had been little used OF lat
so are restored to favor since the fancy for EN-
% broidery began. The monogram Is Wrough
- on linen collars, on parasols, on lace mitts o.
10 the insteps of stockings, and sometimes
" shoes.
y The white muslin pleatings once so fash
40 onable for trimming black silk and colore
% % dresses are coming into use again. They ar
20 worn under black lace, or else they peep frot
IA beneath ruff1es OF the dress material. grea
10 deal OF white lace OF very open pattern IS ais
= used on dark silk dresses; among these al
80 church lace (or Irish point, Honiton, Flemis
ut laces, the open-meshed torchon without an
pattern upon it, and Valenciennes OF new ope
designs These are all modern laces, yet the
az are given a look of age by being dipped
90 weak coffee until they are quite yellow. The
90 are very much used on the panier and Wa
63 teau dresses of damask and OF foulard the
. are ordered for fetes.
Is A thick rouleau of satin is now used to fiji
s. ish the edge OF the flowing tram Of handson
6, dresses.
lei
i col. KENL0CH FALCONER.
le