The Portland daily press., 1878-01-09
TERMS $500 PER ANNUM, IN ADVANCE

the lower edge on the outside with band of
tue material cut 70 f5 the shape, turned in at
tne Top, Stitched there by machine and orna-
mented Dy large smoked pearl buttons set on at
n "lGe intervals m with mock button-hole beside
eaeh; rms yoke and overskrt is especially
| iiKed Ior stout figures; more slender ladies have
1 the KIT pleating begin at the belt add tie a
pieated scarf around the figure just below the
nlps. Ihls sash-llke scarf is of the dress mate
I rial, hemmed fatty and oruamented with rows
| OF machine stitching on the hem IL il laid in
easy folds aud knotted behind or else on tbe
left side. The waist to be worn in the house is
chemlse Rnsse OF the material made plainly,
or else peated from the neck to the bait ae-
4 cording to the fashion of French dresses. with
aequare yoke and deep collar. The sleeves are
tight and untrimmed and are worn with wide
linen cuff or else frill to fall over the hand
Ladies who have seal sacqnes select seal brown
cloth OF the same shade as the saeque for kilt
1 skirts and pleated waists aud thus complete
pretty walking costume. For mourning the
dress is made of Henrietta cloth or of bourette
and worn with seal sacque. The rainbow
tinted bourette9 are made with short, round
skirts, pleated flounce aud shaped apron over
skirt on which are wide bands of velvet forming
panels on the sides or else a crescent shaped
piece OF velvet borders the apron for fourth of
yard from the edge aud is trimmed with
smoked pearl buttons; a buckle to match holds
the knotted scarf drapery at the back To-
match such salts are brown or black felt bon
nets that are merely broad crowns with coro-
nSg uisuo VI uFooplng COCKS feathers; broc3ded
1 RIBBON OF the colors Of the bOurette is folded
smoothly around the crown. crossed behind
and tied in front.
Chnchilla bands are used for triming gray
or black suits. and the bonnet to match Is Of
gray felt, merely crown, with broad coronet
band of chinchiila fur. bow of six loops IF
gray satin ribbon is at the end of the crown be-
hlnd, and the gray satin strings are tied in
iong-looped bow just below the right ear. The
1 front IS softened by face trimming of single
a gl6Q1ar Wi ia in
the left side
CORRESPONDENTS ask how black silks can bs
made handsome enough for dressy occasions,
1 and yet not cut the material so much that IL
cannot be altered. To do this some good
white lace is useful, and beaded trimmings
neIp greatly. The skirt has flowing train of
three straight back breadths, long eaough to lie
on the ground about half yard, pleated to
belt at the top, and simply edged below with
knite-pleating two inches wide, sewed into the
edge, not set upon it. The front breadth and
gore on each side complete the skirt; these are
SNAPPED closely to the figure, and are bordered
with two knife .pleated founces set on the skirt.
The side cores are each covered by long reyers
that 1s pointed toward the back, and is in its
turn covered with jet or clair de htRe passemen-
ter'e. Across from these revers are two aprons
draped ou the front breadth aud edged with
beaded fringe; in some instances these aprons
cross each other, in others they sre diagonal.
wnlie still others are merely curved Some
times row OF white applique lace or of round
l PNAao 40 A@piy W Juo I6VSr5. IQS DaSQu0
has position back, with round front in
ished with broad belt of five upturned folds
of silk. The neck is high, but is trimmed in
such way that it has the effect of an open
| Pompadour square neck. 1t is finished with
| an English collar with points turned over ia
| front, and separated from a standing collar be-
| hind. To make the square is a Marie Autoi-
| nette collar made of bias fold coming down
| from the neck low on the bosom, covered with
l beaded passementerie, aud the ends finished
with fringe Inside this collar is a bosom dra-
perry OF white crepe lisse laid under beaded lace
and two fully gathered rows of white point
| meeting at the edge. Inside the standing col
lar is crepe lisse pleatng and a frill Of point
| lace, with lace bow at the throat The
sleeves are tight, with point lace laid On fatty
IKE upturned cuffs, and below this two lisse
| frills fall over the hands. Young ladies use
/ the gay rainbow beads for trimming such
dresses. The clair de Tune and Jet trimmings
are considered suitable for ladies of any age
Ihere are also old gold or 0aOrdore beads that
| are used alone or else combined with clair de
| tane beads. Transparent beaded lace sesyes
| beaded plastrops, or beaded vests are used for
| very dressy black silk toilettes. The corsage
| bouquet is never omitted from such dresses,
and IS more often of artificial flo gers scot home
Dy the modlSte than of the more beautiful nat
ural flowers that soon fade in heated rooms
Long-stemmed flowers are used for these clus-
ters, and there is a special fancy for large vel
low buds OF the Marshal Neil rose; sometimes
these are used alone, sometimes with pale pink
roses, and at others with dark damssk red
| roses. White rose clusters or else violets are
used alone, by ladies in light mourning. Plain
olack silks are made up iu these dresses, bat
there are many more of the rich brocaded silks
and also of those with inch wide stripes Of
satin.