Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1878-04-12

poetry over the majority of spring millinery,
and found myself going about singing solemn
ly
"On the top Of crumpety tree
The Quangle Wangle sat
But his face We could not
on account Of his wonderful hat.
For his hat hundred and two feet wide
With bells aud buckles every side
And ribbons and bibbons and loops and lace
SO that nobody ever could see the face
OF the Quange waugle Quee."
But didn't sing that at "Ville de Paris q"
Not bit Of it. thought instead of old pic
lures, and l could point ont to you the very
hats that had stepped ont of Sir Peter Lely's
or Sir Joshuas canyasses TO add beauty to
our prettiest women. There is % "Roscberrv"
which, after all is but Il modification of the
"Gainsborough, having square crown, and
wide brin, uptuincd on tho left II is to be
worn high on the head and far buck, so it
must needs have pretty face underneath
The one which | admired most of all of this
shape, was a beige chip. with the brim faced
with deep garnet velvet ut the left side. fill
ing the upturned brim. was II bow of beige
silk, and an car of wheat pointing towards
the front; near the front was a cluster of
holyhocks buff and garnet n scarf of beige
silk was twisted carelessly about the crown,
knotted ON the left, and through the knot
pearl-handled dagger was carelessly stuck
soft plumes of beige color completed the trim
ming of this most exquisite hat
Crownloss bonnets, not unlike the Fan
chon' of years ago, are shown great deal
for summer wear. They are mostly made en-
tirely of flowers with loops Of satin ribbon at
the back, and satin strings but one that
saw was Of white chip, with coronet front,
faced with black velvet against which was a
band OF soft, white ostrich feathers: in the
very centre of this a green butterfly had set
tied long loops of white satin fell over the
top, aud at the edge of the chip at the Luck,
where the crown would begin if there was
one, WAS a thick cluster Of rose leaves and a
fringe of pearl beads One Of these flower
poncheons' was mad" entirely Of pansies,
another Of forget-mc-uots Oh dear. if
could only make you see one bonnet which
everybody went wild over: but | can't, be-
cause it is entirely indescribnblc 1t was n
most noudcscript affair in white chip. lilac
silk, and profusiou Of English violets shad-
ing from almost deep purple to white. OF
the head 1t looks like nothing so much as an
old-fashioned cLajse top on. it was one of
the most becoming honuets ! ever saw. There
is not another one like it in Boston, certainly.
and don't know as even Paris holds its fell
low. 1t was one Of Tuvee's sudden nspira-
TONS and | don't believe it has ever been du-
plicated
Chips are resuming their supremacy after
having been superseded by straw for an en-
tire season. We see again the white chip, the
natural beige, mastic, gray, and even fancy
colors. The hats themselves are quite small
when untrimmed with high crowns, squarer
than those of last year. while the brims are
either quite close forming the cottage shape
or coronets quite high and standing close to
crown depressed on top with rolling sides,
the real Marie Stuart lifted on one side like
the "Gansborough' and "Roseberry." and
depressed in front and lifted in the back.
forming the "Modjeska.' Flowers are the
prevailing trimming, but with them are used
soft ostrich tips and pompons; the same bon
net generally holding both | never saw love
lier artificial flowers in my life. Nature has
been copied almost exactly; everything is re-
produced. There are punches of field flowers,
daisies, buttercups, and clover tops tied with
meadow grasses, scarlet peoples and buds,
holyhOcks in all colors trailing arbutus and
anemones, yiolets, pansies, and trailing sprays
of wisteria, snowy chrysanthemums with
tinge of pink in the tips roses of all kinds
from the shy sweet-brier to the passionate
perfume-laden Jacquenimot, hyaCinths. and
delight of delights. white snow-drops, which
have never before seen successfully simu-
lated.
Roman pearls and crystal beads are quite
the rage and when used with discretion. add
to the effect of a stylish bonnet, but when
used with lavish hand, give a tawdry effect
The ribbons are mostly of satin with double
face; one rarely sees gros grain now as scarfs
for bonnets or hats, soft silk or chenille gauze
is the thing
Don't think, my dears, that you are going
to have everything to yourselves and monop-
Ollie all La Dame de Modes attention. In
deed mo- There are others las has rights"
besides yourselves, although they don't make
so much talk about it. | wonder if you think
the other half of creation must not have as
much attention paid to their hats as you to
yours. You needn't read any farther than
this, for what follows has to do only with
your brothers.
had occasion the other day to visit A. n.
Cooks, Washington street, to see about the
disposition of a seal skin sack for the summer,
and found them busy opening their spring
styles, which they had just received fresh
from London. This house. which is, by the
way, the only authorized agent of Tuss & Co.,
of London, the most famous hatters of the
world, lead the style in gentlemens' hats for
all New England TO begin with silk hats,
the article that, while il is not the most COM
monty worn, is the most important one of the
masculine toilette, since there are occasions
when it is de rigeur has the crown very slight
ly bell-shaped, with a close brim, rolling at the
sides. There has been an attempt to intro
duce a silk hat with straight brim. but it has
been unsuccessful, as it is not so generally be-
coming nor in so refined style; there is some
thing too pronounced about it; the close brim
is considered more elegant The same shapes
come in the American gossamcr hats, made
by Morris of Philadelphia, and which are
kept exclusively for Boston by Mr.. Cook,
These hats are remarkable for their lghtness
and if one must of necessity wear a silk hat,
are as comfortable as any he can find For
undress hats, to go with business suits, and
TO wear ON all informal occasions, the Derby
is the prevailing shape. 1t is style which
has grown familiar to all with long usage !;
you know it, if, indeed, you haven't worn it ::
low, round crown, small brim curling at the
sides. 1t is iaunty and almost universally be-
coming; so much SO indeed that many of my
own sex, not content with all that is done for
them in the way of variety wear your Der
by with careless, airy grace, sometimes
only sticking a gay feather into the band
again twisting scarf about it and letting the
ends fall at the back. But the Derby" is
yours, no matter how much we want it. Still
there are those who do not care for so jaunty
style, liking something more conservative;
for these there are high straightforward
hats with brim less curled than the Derby
hut by no means straight While this is not