The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1878-08-10

The Feather Business.

@SAS ~ ANGh OIA CITY
alone in single year is almost incredible,
especially when one considers that pIumes
are only one small unit among many un-
necessary requirements of fashion. The
forests and the marshes of the whole world
contribute to the well-stocked feather en-
pOrium. Ostrich plumes, natural, colored.
made into a thousand different forms of
trimming, skillfully knotted and curled
into ''willow feathers" or combined with
other speices of plumage; marabOu, natural
or adorned with trembling spangles; pea
cock skins and tails; breasts of glossy
grebe and blue heron; delicate egrets: the
irideseent purple and green head and skin
OF the Impeyan pheasant; thousands of
humming-birds, birds Ofparadise, red birds
birds green, black, yellow, blue-of every
conceivable tint and mixture-are found
here, each suggestive of foreign lands and
wild forest life.
The chief business in feathers is with
ostrich plumes, which are used for every
variety Of purpose. They come principal
ly from South Africa, although the long
soft Egyptian feather known as the Mo-
gador is of finer quality than the Cape"
feather and brings higher price. The
Cape feathers are pure white, often tipped
and streaked with a soft gray tint. Some
varieties are gray throughout, and Of the
most delicate texture. Those from the
wild Egyptian birds are sometimes as long
as twenty-four inches, aud the down on
each particular spine is longer and thicker
than those from the Cape. They are of
pure white, or of an almost invisible yellow
tint. The price per pound, which con-
tains from eighty to hundred long feath-
ers, runs as high as three hundred dollars
for the best qualities. There is often
considerable quantity of guano and other
dirt, which must be carefully removed by
the manufacturer. Acids are used in
cleansing feathers, after which process
they are assorted and prepared for the
market The thick quill is scraped with
glass on the under side until about half its
substance is removed, which leaves the
feather soft and graceful from stem to tip.
Many are left in their natural purity, or
soft gray coloring, while others are prspar-
ed in various tints to suit all tastes. The
feather manufacturer uses mineral dyes
adapted to the delicate nature ofhis plumes.
Cloth dyes should never be applied to val
liable plumes, as, however well the feather
may appear at first, it is rotted, its natural
gloss and softness gone forever, and it re-
mains only sorrowful relic Of its former
splendor. A feather once dipped in cloth
dye soon wears out, and can never be re-
newed, while it may be cleansed or dyed
every season by professional worker in
feathers, and still retain its briliancy and
valuable qualities for years.
Marabou, egret and some Of the light
airy plumes are sold in quantity by the
ounce, and are worth from eight to six
teen dollars, according to the quality.
Birds which are imported whole, like hum
ming-birds, birds of paradise, and hun
dreds of more common varieties, are reck-
oned by the dozen or hundred. Thousands
Of humming-birds are brought from South
America The Indians shoot them with
bow-guns made from a small palm from
which the pith is removed, leaving pol
ished bore. The tiny birds are in this
way stunned, and captured with out inju-
ry to their exquisite plumage. They are
rudely stuffed, the wings secured by a
narrow strip of paper fastened tightly
around the body, and in this form they
reach the feather manufacturer, who then
cures them with acids, arranges them ar
tifcially, securing the wing open by
means Of fine wires, and display them,
a gorgeous show of glistening color, in his
cases. Neither hgmming-birds or whole
birds of any kind are as much in use as
few years ago, and it is to be hoped the
tickle changes of fashion win soon put
an end to the wholesale slaughter of these
small denizens of the forest and meadow.
No plumage is of more service to the
manufacturer than that Of the peacock,
whose magni6cence has been called the
"consummation in feathers Everyfeath-
er on this noble bird is turned to some use;
its long tail plumes, the tuft upon its lOrdly
head, every one of its gfistening scales,
are of value. Yards and yards of green,
blue, and purple trimming are manufact-
ured by skillful fingers as decoration for
cloaks, dresses, hats-whatever use fashion
may dictate. In fat feather trimmings
the maker may display much artistic skill
in combination Of colors. Every bit Of
plumage too small for other uses may be
interviewer with an infinite variety Of
shades and tints. Here is trimming made
from pure white marabOu plumes, airy and
graceful enough for fairy bride; there,
the feathers of the peacock, the Impeyan
pheasant, the blue heron, are combined
in gorgeous gold and purple and drab as
would suit the costume Of queen. The
white peacOck-where is his contribution to
this rich array? The white peacock is
not a species; only at intervals does he ap-
pear, a solitary albino Of his tribe.
Royal, indeed, was that chapel de paOn
blanc worn centuries ago by st. Louis
King of France.
Feathers must always hold place far
in advance OF artificial flowers in decora-
ton of costumes. Flowers are at best but
poor imitation of the reality, while
plumes are genuine and magnificent con-
tribution of nature to mans desire for
beautiful adornmeut.-Hdrper's Magazine
for Augast.