The Portland daily press., 1878-09-25
lHarper's Bazar.I
New York Fashions.

Cloths Of various kinds will be the favorite
material for the short suits of fall and winter.
The most stylish patterns resemble the Che
Viots worn by gentlemen, and are mixtures of
color; but the popular taste will select the plain
solid colors in stylish tints of myrtle green
Bordeaux gray, sapphire and bronze. These
can be had in single widths of pure wool lightly
woven, like what is known as ladies' cloth, and
is used for plain riding habits, as low as from
65 cents to so cents a yard. There is a prefer
ence for the double width cloths that measure
forty-eight inches yard, but these single
width stuffs are twenty-four inches-just half
the width-and will cut to about the same ad-
vantage. Eighteen yards is an abundant pat
tern for short costume, and the material for Q
warm winter dress need not cost more than S13
or SIS; sometimes yard or two OF striped vel
vet is added for vest, collar, cuffs and bands,
but it is quite as popular to finish the coat and
overskirt with three or four rows of machine
stitching, and put a single pleated fiounce Of
the material on the lower skirt. Myrtle green,
bronze and wine colors are more popular in
these cloth suits than the navy blue and black
that have been so long worn. Other cloths,
known as coatings and suitings come in small
neat Cheviot mixtures and are double width,
measuring forty -eight inches; these cost from
$1.50 yard up to So. 70. Those at S150 are
excellent in single shades of sober gray or
brown, but the more expensive aud more dressy
ones have mixture Of colors. Eight or nine
yards are sold for suit.
Scotch colors are beautifully mingled in small
checks, broken plaids and stripes, producing
cloth effects. Blue with green prevails in these
as in the favorite Scotch tartans The Scotch
goods are exceedingly soft and pliable, being
made of the finest wool woven in loose twills;
these, in clan pleids cost from S175 to 50 25 .
yard. Fancy plaids with odd combinations of
stylish colors come in French fabrics that are
harsher, with more lightly twisted threads
than the Scotch goods; they cost S150 q yard.
The bourette colohng is shown again in
smooth-surfaced fabrics, where the rich CASH
mere shades are thrown together in heteroge-
neous manner and lghtened by stitches Of pale
blue, green or rose. They are double fold and
cost ~ 90 yard. These will make gay cos
tunes for the young ladies with whom bourette
was SO popular last winter.
The finely twilled cameps-hair with OCCASION
al loose threads lying along its surfacs remains
the choicest and most expensive wooden fabric.
1t comes 10 the new bronze, sapphire aud gar
net shades at So so yard. There is also q
heavy cloth with much loose fleece on its sur
face, called camel's-hair cloth which is in the
colors of the twilled goods, and heavy enough
for outside wraps; this is also SO 80 yard, The
fine, soft Chuddah cloths are made of the same
fleece but are woven in herring bone stripes;
these are highly priced for over dresses
by ladies who have used the soft Chuddah
shawls; price 81. 65 to s. in all the new dark
shades.
The Persian figured sbrocaded patterns de-
scrlbed above in silk and satin are copied in
fine wool with silken raised surface and costs
So SO yard for single-width goods. Wool
Sicilenne, with lengthwise reps like the old
time favorite known as Biarritz cloth, Is also
shown in all the new shades; this is also a most
desirable fabric both for appearance and dura-
bIlity and is probably the forerunner of many
repped stutfs that merchants say will soon be
placed in the market
Among the importations of the past week
are beautiful short suits made by the pattern
OF the washerwoman polonaise. These are
very handsome in gray cloth, trimmed with q
wide retrousso band, collar, and cuffs of gar
net velvet An edge of gold braid Is sometimes
tie green velvet. Another cloth suit Of choca-
late brown has long square apron trimmed
with eight lengthwiss bands of striped velvet
and satin. These bands are three inches wide,
straight instead OF bias, and extend the whole
length of the apron. The lower short round
SKIRT Is only two yards wide. The peated
hounce on this dress will serve as q model for
many others. 1t has three side pleats of the
cloth and then one side pleat OF the velvet.
forming a very pretty cluster. The fine knife
pleatipgs look SO much like machine pleating
that they are falling into disuse, and the wool
fabrics are really too heavy for them. Other
pleated founces of cameps hair have three
bias bands of satin, each an inch wide, put on
as a border before the half-inch side pleats are
laid. Pretty fabrics in India cashmere pat