The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1878-12-29
Dame Fashions Latest Dictates to
Her Numerous Court.
DRESSES FOR THE NEW YEAR
Novelties in Silk, Satin, Velvet Brocade
India Muslin and Crepe de Chine.
A BRIDES RECEPTION.

pie ana SO little ulversncu more "'
required in regard to it than was necessary for the
selection of suitable material and color for the pur
pose for which it was required. But now colors have
been multiplied and broken mp into an infinite num-
Der of shades and instead of few standard fabrics
count hundreds half ut least being only imi-
tations of the original by whose they are called.
sEAsoNABIE FABRICS.
Among materials used for the elegant costumes
now designed by Fashions landmarks 1t is observed
thlt the light gauzes and tissues, which little while
since were considered so essential for evening
dresses are now somewhat in the background. Pre-
vaing shapes require fabrics with more body, and
they if possible, rich and varied than ever
Regal velvet sheeny SATIN stately brocade rustling
silk, fairy-like India muslin, crepe de chine and
host Of other lovely materials present themselves
for the surages of the fair who have forgotten,
or chosen to ignore the old adage Beauty when
unadorned is then adorned the most
Mousscnc de lane is u charming material which
is quite the rage abroad for evening dresses. 1t is
soft light and supple. Grapes gracefully, and comes
in the most delicate shades. The same may be said
of India camels hair only it is thicker. Mousseline
de lanc is particularly charming III white, and looks
beautiful when embroidered 1t is particularly APP
propriate. over white silk. for young ladies. En-
bossed vevcts and satins very popular. and the
fashionable colors-garnet. rose, sulphur. straw
color ana VlOet-arc proIuscly uSeu, 10 Tue cAciu-
sion of gold and beige which or less neg
lected.
Evening dresses arc usually made of two materials
only such US velvet and brocaded satin faille and
crepe de chine Silk muslin elegantly embroidered,
is still in vogue for evening toilets and white India
null dresses mace up with PROPULSION Of tiny
rufies. hemmed with colored silk hoss and trimmed
with ribbons and flowers to match, and worn by very
young ladies'. The tints most desired for evening
dresses are peach and lemon palcst turquoise lotus
blue. and a tint. which is the natural mate to
olive Pink is again almost royal favorite owing to
its beauty as combination shade and it's especial
effectiveness with black. brown and dark green.
GORGEOUS TRIMMINGS.
The trimmings for evening dresses are of unusual
richness and variety. Perfect cascades of ribbon
used often placed all down the dress-sometimes
two or three the front, and sometimes tho
ribbon is ruchcd o/placed in coquiles all round thu
bottom Of the train and mp the sides. The very
finest ribbons are employed, with the two sides in
different shades else delicately shaded from the
darkest to the lightest or Powered on side and
plain on the other.
Ruches are very fashionable. sometimes quilted in
the middle and having the edges pinked out and this
particular kind is known chicorte Some prefer
to quill them near the top as to give the effect Of
tiny hounce
The trimming which holds the highest position in
decorative art is lace of all kinds and descrip-
tions. It is worn everywhere. Some OF the
loveliost dresses have three jabots Of lace
placed pcrpendicuarly the front, from the
waist down. Jabots down each side Of the long court
train have a very elegant effect. Lace Aounces
seldom used but ladies utilize them by draping
them diagonally like scarfs the apron and this
arrangement gives very rich effect. The latest
novelty is to embroider black Chantilly lace with
white The effect is striking and handsome.
Embroidery Of all kinds is worn and the height
Of elegance to have the embroidery worked directly
on the dress ITSELF but this very costly and when
the bands Of embroidery neatly applique the effect
is almost the Chenille embroidery in brilliant
shades is very beautiful; but the most beautiful is
the silk embroidery on tue representing garlands of
flowers in their natural shades Embroidered plaques
placed down the dresses and are very effective.
Flowers figure largely in the ornamentaion of ball
dresses. necklace of dropping flowers, foliage
grasses is worn with armlcts Of the same These
admirably to conceal thin neck and apparently
shorten long arm
The sleeve is undoubtedly one OF the most i'm
portan points with regard to the toilet 1t should be
in harmony with the whole. both as to shape and
garnturc u simple dress requires a simple sleeve
The intuition of coquery can only advise when the
sleeve may be shortened to the elbow. or when it
may be slashcd to display the lace underneath, or
finished with rufiied cuffs to show of the dccacy OF
the hand.
TOILETS NEW YEARS DAY.
Modistes say that great number of handsome
black dresses have been made for New Years recep-
tons and that many ladies' are exhibiting laudable
do sire economzc by the purchase Of dresses that
will do for common rather than particular pur-
posse There Is great fancy for black velvet dresses
for reception and for evening wear. Some very
elegant black satin dresses trimmed with beaded
passemcntcrie and fringe or lace for the older of
the fashionable ladies, and black satin in combina-
ton with MORE or plain gros grain silk for younger
matrons.
An exquisite dress is Of rich black silk embroidered
IN lily of the valley and pansy pattern in dense
garland. Three embroidered scars the tablicr
diagonay and form the drapcry on the train. The
skirt is trimmed around at the foot with triple cus-
tered box plating headed by knife plating arranged
in the halt open fan style.
A dress OF plain black satin and silk has very
graceful tablicr OF silk the left side, laid in
lengthwisc side plats-the plated arrangement
tending slightly beyond the centre of the front-and
lenghwise gathered satin the right sidc the silk
and satin so disposed covering the front and side
CORES. silk and satin is effectively arranged at the
skirt is q simple border OF beautifully made knife
plating The basque waist OF satin displays ayest
of silk and the sleeves of satin. with cuffs Of silk
''nAINDow'' COSTUMES.
Varying the fancy for dresses Of black. there arc
striking and attractive creations in which several
coors are introduced A beautiful dress is
c cainel's hair. The basque of corn colored
camels hair is cut away above and below
the waist showing vest OF caroubicr satin; deep
collar and tabs in the back. also of satin. The
.Evadnc'' train has a beautifully shirred front Of
corn-colored faillc crossed low down by drnped
sash Of camcl's hair. Long handsome revers down
camcls hair, IL gracefully draped and finished with
plating OF faille, headed with satin.
A charming combination OF velvet, satin and faillc
liz i'm the princess style, with basque In front and
square train in the back the dress being principally
of black velvet. The vest and cuffs of old gold
SATIN and handsome panels Of the sspe
material extend down each side Of the
skirt in front and crossed by three small
sashcs made Of doublefaced ribbon. black velvet
side and red silk the other. Two large
bows of the ribbon placed down the middle
Of the train ruche of red faillc faced with old
gold satn extends round the neck and down the
fronts line with the edges of the covers
the front OF the panels. Another similar ruche
borders the train and IL continued up the side, simu
lating q mdHfedu ds
An exceedingly stylish and ladylike costume IL In
lavender silk and garnet velvet, and very rich and
snowy dress IN OF black velvet, bright olive satin and
brown silk, richly embroidered in variety Of bright
colors. very gcntecl dress is Of velvet MORE
antique and satin, garnurcd with rich fringe each
material being OF tho exact Bordeaux shade.
A BRIDES RECEPTION.