Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-10-01
AUTUMN FASHIONS,
Styles that Require Women to he
Beautiful. Tall and Young The
New BOnnets-DresSing of Girls.
[Frou our O,cn CJrrespondentI

This Is the golden age of fashion for women
who are beautiful and tall and young; women
who can display TO advantage picturesque
Gainsborough," Reynolds" and Beef
eater" hats, and the soft falling drapery of the
clinging artistic costumes. How entirely de-
lightful the world must be to-day for those
who have youth, freshness, taste and money
But alas, the conditions meet in so few; those
who have money so seldom have beauty, or
freshness or taste, while those who possess
these latter qualifications exhaust themselves
III vain desire because means are lacking.
THE BEEF-EATER"
The greatest novelty of the season, speak
ing quite literally, is the English Besfeater
bat, derived from the days of bluff and brutal
King Henry the Eighth, who had a guard
called the Beefeaters, whose rubicund Wis
ages were surmounted by large crowned
broad brimmed hats rolled up on the side and
trimmed with many, plumes, in the style of
the Beef-eater of to-day, which is reproduc-
ton from @ the pictures of the period.
For fall and winter wear, black, grey and
cream colored felt have replaced the straw
and chip, which in this shape have been so
fashionable in London during the past sum-
mer. The edges are often finished in button
hole stitch, with gold or silver cord, and as
many as five magnificent ostrich plumes, two
OF them very long and full, are used in con
junction with SILK galloons or ribbed satins
for the trimming. The long plumeS lay one
over the other, at the back OF the crown, de.
Scendlng, one over the brim, to the shoulder.
as a Prince of Wales plume, partly covering a
large bow. which is placed in the hollow formed
by the curving of the feathers. Nothing can
exceed the dash and elan of this daring Style
upon those who can wear it. Tall, elegant
women, for example, whose all black toiIetteS
Qf the hat is tlack) will bear the closest Scru-
tiny, Hardly less striking is the Reynolds"
which is always black, and trimmed entirely
with black silk, satin or velvet, and black
feathers. OF course there is difference in
the cost and quantity of trimming; but, as Yet,
a hpa inn Srat Of ~ l,rs,r
I'D their purity, and they can hardly be repro
duced i'll inexpensive materials, as the effect
is lost without the depth, when is obtained
rom me quahty more than from the quantity
The = Reynolds" will undoubtedly be more
popular than the . 'Baefeater," for the reason
height Or distinction in the wearer. The
reynolds is peculiarly becoming TO bru-
netteS of somewhat rosy complexion, with
well rounded figures, not short, but not neces-
Sariy very tall. The brim of the Reynolds"
droops more than that OF the Beef eater"
though the crown is not SO large. The edge is
band OF black feathers, and very becoming
modification has feathers arranged in the inte-
rlor, OF the brim. OF the side where it is turned
back from the face.
The "Cavendish' is smaller and more like
the Gains sbOrough, with which we are Well ac-
quainted. 1t is i'll all shades of light velvet
1elt, and is always trimmed with satin ribbon,
and ostrich p!umes matching exactly the shade
of the bonnet.
The massing of these exquistely soft and
beautiful feathers one over another in irregu-
lar but most graceful fashion is one of the fea-
lures of the autumn STYLES.
Anew, ostrich feather can be distinguished
at once by IFS additional size, breadth AMI full
ness, as well as the wonderful shading.
THE AUTUMN BONNET"
Tie bonnetS are as small as the hats are
large. Many OF them are merely quaint
crowns, destitute of brim or curtain. Others
are Quaker shaped. and there is a pretty de
Ild loci incl hot *
fore fastened under the chin, instead of under
he back hair, which is more generally becom
ing than the more eccentric forms. The fea-
ure of the b0nnetS, however, is not the shape
nor even the material Of which they are com
posed, but the trimming. The most eXtraor-
Glnary compositions i'll the way Of feathers
nave been made and are used principally upon
the bonnets and English walking hats. I'm
menSe butterflies, moths and other insects en-
larged to twice the usual size, are made of the
different kinds OF feathers, Or the different
! parts OF birds, shllfuly put together. The
heads and breasts of birds of all kinds are in
enormous demand, especially those which
have varlegated plumage, which are particu
larry handsome or particularly ugly. A bon
net OF wine cOlored velvet, the new ieeS-of
VINE shade, was covered, except the back of
the crown, with six very large butterflies,
made principally of humming birds wings
bonnet OF olive green velvet was entirely
covered with Brazilian bugs and another with
ladders of satin ribbon up which Lizards
seemed to be crawling.
These, however, are eccentric styles. There
are simple styles, the crowns of which are
crossed at the back, with narrow bands of
bows, one of which will be placed on high on
the side OF the high crown, like little chalet,
tipped over the edge of Mont Blanc, another
lower down. nearer the brim, and ostrich tips
curved in between. There are styles in which
The brim is still preserved, and one in which il
is turEed back from one side, in piquant
way. which Is especially adapted to bright
face with irregular features.
The satin bows are quite distinctive part
OF the bonnet. They are no longer two or four
pIlm loops, with two ends. They are grouped,
they occupy, and are really works of taste, if
not OF art The construction of the bows is
indeed, one OF the .sureSt tests OF the class TO
which the modern bonnet belongs.
1he alfred bOnnetS which have made their
appearance are not, strange 10 say either loud
or very pronounced; at least not those which
structed OF several different shades, from gar
net to ruby red. The lighter shades are, of
course, put IN very SDaringy, and the distri-
mirabte.
An equal triumph is achieved in the combi
nation OF several shades of gold, from old gold
down to pa.e cream color. The materials are
satln and ostrich feathers, and the shading of
Goth is so soft and exquisite that I'm masses the
appearance is that of clOtted cream.
-, In speaking OF shaded feathers, especially
be understood that the different shades are
combined In one feather. On the contrary,
eacn one mas nne, peculiar cOOrlng OF its
one. 1t Is In the lavish use of these lovely
ornaments, in grouping them together, or
laying them one above another, that the effects
OF shading are obtained.
The white day reception and visiting bonnet
by bonnetS strictly matching the costume. A
pale Diue costume, for example, trimmed with
striped blue and lemon cOlOred satin will be
accompanied by pale blue bonnet trimmed
with blue satin fibbOn, lemon color on tie
reversible side, and lemon -colOred ostrich tin
among the blue feathers. Another toilette
recently worn was of heavy white silk and
gold and garnet brOcade mixed with black
sleeves OF white net covered with a retwork of
seed pearls arranged in diamond shape. The
bonnet was OF white silk also, the crown sur
rounded by scarf OF the brocade and covered
with network OF pearls matching the sleeves.
Which terminated In a small cape edged with
fringe az the back. A small frfnged coronet
OF pearls also shaded the front, and at the side
were three immense butterflies made OF small
ieatners In colorS matching the brocade.
THE DRESSING OF GIRLS
In the dressing of girls there has been a pop
ular cnange for the better. 1t has always
Deen customary among the very highest claSse7
Ior girls TO dress simply, but we have class
OF people In this country, sprung from humble
cOnditlonS. who have become possessed of
ways belongs to this class. The dresses in
preparation for the evening wear of girls are
OF the simplest materials, white berage; soft
1ne, pale tinted allw0ol delaine: gasoline:
nne bunting; clOtted muslin, trimmed with
lace, and worn over silk or batiSte, and fancy
striped silks of an inexpensive kind, trimmed
with velvet in the dark or contrasting shade.