New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1878-03-09
LETTERS FROM THE PEOPLE.
japanese TEXTILE FABRICS.

JAPANESE TEXTILE FABRICS
LETTER FROM AN EXPcRT-w0vEN SUITS, FRO
cADYD DRESSES AND EMBROIDERIEs-A VARIED
COLLECTION AT TIEfANY's.
To me EGitOr Of The Tribune.
SIR: Numerous articles have been written
about the dctle metal and enamel productions Of JAPAN
but little, until now. has been said Of the proficiency OF
u&apanese as weayers and manufacturers Of textile
fabrics. For years past we have been familiar win
Japanese silks such offered for sale In dry goods
stores, specially made for the European and American
markets but what has been excessively scarce ana al
most unknown until now the woven stuis hrocaoeo
dresses and embroideres that worn by the princes
and damios OF that period at which the most remHka
Die manufactures made like soyrcs porceialn' Only
for presentation pieces FOR the Of crowned head
For the artist and the collector the study Of such su
affords an unusual interest for IL shows even 10 pee
advantage that subtle quality OF oTnamenation when
makes Oriental interesting. Inc 1fst IMPRESSION
received on seeing these superb textures is one OF eX
Qusite delight at the perfect harmony OF design ana
color but the eye wandeTs over the sum- new details
appear in every spot. The color OF the GROUNDWORK
changes and so does Of the ornamental pattern but
on several yards Of stuff the juxapositon of color
between the ground and the ornament will not be re-
peatcd aOrding great interest to the observer
The robes of the princes of large dmensonswhlc
seems singular when think how low In stature the
japanese isand cut square. for their artistic
sbty acute that they could not have the heart to
not without interest for take the dresses apart
and the wide bands of sus for decorative purposes
The lining used for each dress is always in per
feet harmony with the outside hues Of the garment,
which Cffer the most striking variety even
in one single piece. The dresses Of musicians.
testers priests aud lords though cut in the same shape
are ornamented with suggestions OF the occupations OF
the wearers Some heavy with gold brccade that
their weight is nearly sufficient to bear man down. but
in all cases that exquisite harmony Of color, which
is such @ relief to after all the dogmatc art we nave
suffered under long, carried out in the most delight
ful fashion These people who live in abodos that are
more like tents than houses, and who. thanks to the
glorious climate of their country, always out OF
DOORS seem TO imbbe the influence OF the magnificent
coorng of nature by which they always surrounded
japanese is true art in the fullest accepaion OF
the term that is Simple rendering Of nature without
any effort of the brain. When Imagination comes IN
play then il introduces those terrible though gracefully
curved monsters which astOnish Us and sci Us thinking
WIN lhe eeIeIai 1VIoSt , -, ~, Wy "e' ~ '
The mealic threads used IN their brocadcs are always
,aS'srs IN n6ner ,Donufoctnro This has a twOold
utility: while 1t makes the stuff more rigid II Goes
away with the hard cracks which occur pieces III when
gold thread of inferior quality is used for real gold
Thread is too costly used except III church Orna
mental work and even then only Tor pieces used on the
altar In or the finest embroidery, such rs was
male for the hangngs OF temples, the gold work on the
dragons Is heavy enough TO Introduce glass ewes and
monsters terrible. In embroidering crapc-sueh
is known IN the trade as clepe dc chine
they without rivals. They use peculiar
method Of reServIBg certain parts by painting
them over with chemical which prevents spots
thus prepared from taking the dye. In tnis way
when the stuff comes Of the dyeVat an important
part OF the ornamental design is already Indicated by
white masses ard lines Paids produced by lines Of
different and thickness interesting 10 right
angles been used by them long before they
became identified with Scotch fabrics
The largest collection OF japanese textile goods ever
brought together up that time that shown at the
S hesc s e. ~ IeeD i'm the narkf untl few deys
yVlpp n n
ton of sufs which the spoils of temple and palace
in the centre OF Di-NppoH. Apart from their artistic
interest these goods tOnahy Old and belong
to the artistic period of japanese manufacture
for Japan they could not be reproduced for
many times the price for which they are oriei Tor sale
here FREDERIC NoK>.
Nety York, March 8, 1879.