The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1878-03-16

and these are made as close to the body
of the dress as possible, and with the
largest portion at the back. Plastrons
or insertions frequently extend from the
neck of the dress to the foot, and these
are laid, sometimes, in fine side-pleats,
or else shirred with fine cords, as was
once the fashion for bonnets. A large
proportion of the plastrons, vests, etc,
upon silk and also upon mixed toilets
are outlined with trimming. A hand
some variation upon the plain prin cesse
shows an opening made in the back
breadths at the foot. This wedge-like
space is filled in with a succession of
narrow side-pleatings, which are ex-
tremely snowy upon an evening dress
of two colors, or upon dinner costume
of silk and velvet, or contrasting shades
of any material.
Polonaises, quite unchanged this
spring as to their form of modelling,
were never before so handsome. Many
ladies prefer this design, with a skirt
appended, to the princesse. For the
street, with capes added, the polonaise
is handsome, and suggests certain eff
fects of drapery, such as wrinkled and
pleated fronts, which are not always
obtained in the princesse models. The
first costumes for spring show polonaise
forms with short belts extending from
the sides to the front. These belts are
Independent of any model. In using
them, it is a fancy with ladies of slen-
der figure to have the polonaise loose
oil ba let hn I,n1 -,
closes few gathers across the fronts.
Polonaises which close diagonally are
still in vogue, and there is fancy for
trimming the long diagonal hem with
swinging or drop buttons and the most
elaborate fastenings.
Basques are of two varieties this
spring; one is the street garment, made
with vest, real or simulated, and worn
with trimmed skirt; the other is a
garment for the house, which may be
indefinitely varied by garnitures and
the use of the material. Many small
changes which are Independent of the
model are seen upon street basques; the
vest is white, embroidered in colors, or
it is of some rich dark material: and,
although the fastening may be at the
side, as in the Breton, row of show
buttons is placed down the center or
diagonally across. and belt appears
from under the sides. This same alter
alton or addition is seen in garments
called jackets. Basques for evening
wear have Pompadour squares cut out
from the neck, but the row of buttons
closing the front is not disturbed, and
the trimming of the garment passes
around the neck and Pompadour, and
so down the basque centers. Another
plain basque model has the fronts cut
out in extremely low, surplice shape.
Folds of tissue or crepe de chine are
used to build the dress up to the neck
upon the shoulder-line, and these are
narrowed closely at point below the
bust. A high chemisette is worn across
the front. A sleeveless basque which
is intended for a supplementary gar
ment for the street is modelled with
cuirasse fronts, and long stylish back
like that of the habit basque. Small
capes are seen at the neck.
Blouse waists are among the familiar
designs to which fashion has been
pleased to give new life this spring.
Yoke waists are also favorites with this
whimsical leader, and ladies now max
ing up dresses of Scotch gingham, per-
Gale, and even light silks and cash
meres, are using these designs in great
numbers. Yokes are so much admired
upon slender figures that trimmings
are used to outline them when the real
yoke is not employed. Blouse and
pleated waists of cashmere are made
dressy with rows of floss needle-work,
or else applique embroidery placed on
each pleat. Large collars are seen on
pleated waists, and extensions below
the belt are also added by those who
admire them. Sacques, deprived of all
except an easy fullness, are being used
for new spring and laundry materials.
These are chiefly liked by stout ladies,
who will use large collars, and belts
which will take in but little fullness
A box-pleat placed down the center OF
the back of sacque breaks up the
width and makes becoming point fol-
fiat trimming.
Over-skirts for the new season are
always arranged according to individ.
ual taste and figure, and the plain
square or smooth diagonal front which
is adapted to laundry work. Long
square backs and sides in which shirrs
are placed so as to be readily removed
are the designs required at present fol-
percales, lawns and new cotton bou
rettes. The antique sleeve reaching tc
the elbow is still the ruling design fol
handsome dresses; that with the broad
upper and narrower under division i:
demanded for other uses, although the
simple coat sleeve is as much approved
as ever. Pockets upon outdoor gar
ments are Indispensable; but pocket,
upon handsome house toilets are con
cealed by garnitures. For simple per
Gale dresses, pockets are matters o.
choice; and for the careful and stylish
the antique reticule, suspended from the
arm, is recently revived. The new
spring suits. which include a short skirt