The Portland daily press., 1878-05-24
fxIDAY MORNING, MAY "a.
lHarper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
NOVELTIES IN MILLINERY.


strings cross the crown, pass over the brim
holding it down on the sides, and tie under the
chin. The trimming is bunch of flowers at
the top OF the crown or else pancahe of short
feathers that curl toward the front The stylish
Jacqueminot red, darker than cardinal. ia much
used for trimmings of satin or of ribbon. The
inside OF the new bonnets is merely faced with
velvet or satin, and has classic fllet of velvet
or OF gilt banding the hair close to the fore.
head. Another novelty is that of having the
faripg brim of double chip, making the inside
precisely like the outside, and requiring no
trimming. White and cream color rival Jacqus-
minet red in trim mngs for the new bonnets
All strings pass over the brim, beginning some
where on the outside of the bonnet instead of
inside, as formerly. A pauache of from three
to six short slender ostrich tips bunched to.
gether is used on boDnets that are to be worn
in midsummer. Sometimes these are allowed
to curl over the brim high on the left side as a
face trimming, but they are usually placed
further back on the crown. The Alsacian bow
has also receded from the top of the bonnet to
the middle of the Crowd, where it is posed
just above the curtain band.
Colored dress bounets are less used than white
ones, and are almost confined to beige aud
mastic shades. A novelty for these is plain
silk gauze, instead of the figured gauze which
Is already common. This is handsome for soft
pleated crowns Of beige-color, while the brim
Is covered with a ruche Of ostrich feathers
or else q wreath of bsige-colored foliage.
Pearl beads for edging such bonnets are also of
beige color. The fine mastic gray chip bonnets
are also trimmed in monotone with mastic
satin ribbon outside, mastic gray tulle ruche
inside, msstic beads, and mastlc ostrich tips,
while the only touch Of bright color is a bunch
of pink and red strawberries, or else bouquet
of Jacqueminot rosebuds.
Very neat bonnets of black chip have light
silk or gauze folded carelessly around the crown
and bunch of damask red roses on top Some
pleated black lace falls over the curtain band,
and q ruche of the same is inside the brim
This design is easily copied by ladies who do
their own millinery Beige-colored gauze
trims black or beige chips nicely in this way.
Some ladies use twist of bias silk like that
with which their dresses are trimmed as the
only ornament on plain boLnets for travelling.
With the return of warm weather shade hats
Of new shapes are shown. For young ladies'.
for driving in phaetons and general wear at
the watering-places, are the broad. .brimmed
Fra Diav0lo hats and the picturesuue Peg
Wellington. Both these shapes have very soft
wide brims that are richly trimmed inside with
stt VI Silver oraiu OF snlrreQ Sllk, or else PLAIN
velvet or satin bordered with beads and trim
med with flowers. The panache of feathers is
also conspicuous on these round hats and
always curls over the front of the brim, and
the hat is worn SO far back on the head that
the whole brim is shown. Fra Diavolo hats
are handsome in white chip with black velvet
facing on the brim, while the outside has cnrI
ing feathers and black velvet ribbon. Or else
1t is OF beige chip, with the inside of the brim
nearly covered with sivered braid, and in
M hnr oI, - - L =
cream roses holds it in place. Outside is
beige psnache and satin ribbon around the
crowd, with long streamers behind. For plain
er hats for the country ladies select black or
White rougn-and-read straws with wide brim
slightly rolled on the left toward the back
The trimming is facing of black velvet on
the brim, while on the crown is long black
ostrich plume and velvet ribbon band with
streamers. For ladies who prefer shade hats
TO droop in front there are toques of fine white
chip coming very low down in front, vet cut
away in the back to show the back hair. I'm
ported hats of this kind have panache of pale
blue feathers high on the top, curving down
over oupch OF strawberries. Light blue
watered ribbon is in loops down each side of
the open back, and ties as strings under the
chin. '-0
New walking hats for the city or for travel
ling, are OF black chip, with the sides turned up
These have round crowns, and are very hand
some when trimmed with satin and gauze to-
Rether and some feathers. Flowers are never
used on such hats. The trimming around che
crown should be very fully pleated, reaching
look. 40 edging of two rows of gilt braid
with piping of black satin between, is yerv
stylish on the brim of such hats. The regular
English walking hat, with the sides turned up
high, is now edged with row of gilt or lei
beads and faced with velvet A youthful trim.
ming for such hats is q wide brocaded ribbon
band IN bright Oriental col0rs, mingling blue,
scarlet, and yellow and having two or three
short ostrich t1psin these gay colors. A new
ornament OF such hats is a whip Of cut steel and
gilt.
DRESSES AND WRAPS.
Costumes of India pongee are now worn again
Is they come ia the stylish beige shades, and
were always liked for their coolness, Welding
texture, and excellent service Some have the
ecru laces and insertions for trimming Just as
they were formerly used, while others have CAV
embroideries of silk or of linen Jacaueminot
red with pale blue, or else olive green with
pink, blue and cardinal. Even when trim med
with lace, wide brocaded belts of gay colors are
worn with these dresses. The favorite design
for making is the pleated with yoke and belt
short skirt trim med with kilt. pleating and q
scarf over-skirt, in which open lace insertion il
set and the edges are finished with lace. 9th.
ers nave rows of beige-colored silk braid piped
ing dresses of this material have Embroidered
anchors on the collar and cuffs.
travelling cloaks of this popgee are the first
choice for summer wear, as they are cool, and
their smooth surface sheds dust. They are made
with long princesse back, double-breasted fror
and Carrick capes. New listers of gray OF
brown linen have a scarf passing over the right
shoulder and under the left arm, where it ends
In pocket.
Chime Grape ichus tied on the breast are the
Iavoflte wraps with young ladies. Some OF
these have French lace and insertion for trim.
ming, while others have whalebone fringe OF
else jet fringe and embroidery.
CaroinaI capes reaching to the elbows, and
Gni.e Ge straight around, are also fashionable for
light wraps. They are made of black Sicli.
enne, with elaborate pleatings of French lace.
or OF black cashmere richly embroidered, while
below this are two or three rows of very deep
ana Iull whalebose fringe. There are besides
these, regular Marie Antoinette fichus of black
silk, Tapped in front, and fastened behind ba-
low the waist These are of black silk or of
Sicilienne, with insertion let in and lace on the
edge. For palmer yet stylish mautles are
menus OF Diack diagonal of light weight, made
nigh 10 the back of tie neck and tied in front.
with whalebone fringe for trimming. These
cost Slz50 each. Another inexpensive fancy
Is the small three-cornered shawl of black or Of
white llama lace, to be tied 10 front as a fichu
Inese are 20 each. For $6 to $40 are black
Cashmere ichus of the graceful small size worn
by Young ladies'; their trimming is embroidery
done on the garment and Chinese fringe that is
knotted and tied in the hem.
The single breasted cut-away coat in English
shapes is the fsvorite wrap for travelling and
couotry use It is made of diagonal or of
smooth cloth of light weight, either black, blue
or dark brown and is stitched in rows on the
edges instead of being bound or faced with sill
that will soon wear off. The buttons are DOL
ished horn or bone and'are 30 smooth that thew
button easily and'do not wear out the button.
hole. The back has the masculine shape, With
short side forms and pockets set on the waist
line. These jaunty jackets cost from MIA to
SIS; some OF very fine cloth are shown at $28
Dark blue cut-away suits with vest and kilt
skirts are made up in tailor fashion, and sold
skirts of the dark blue cloth sold to he worn
with black silk kilt skirts. A fancy with
young girls is to have small brass buttons on
these blue suits, and vests of beige-colored bro
caded silk.
NM