Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1878-08-01
MID-SCMNER FASHIONS.
A New Use for ClOthes-DressinG At
Watering Places-White TOiIettes,
Ltc.

FROM THE STARS OWN CoaREsP oNDENT
NEW YORK. July 81, 1873.
Dress this season offers but dull field
for anything but speculation and fancy. The
realities are worse than common place. They
are, out of a limited circle, as uninteresting,
not to say repulsive as vicious taste spreading
itself over certain area can make them. l
havesmade an exception OF one circle; but
there are, indeed, two which must be omitted
from this generalization. One is an exclusive
and refined circle, which has good examples
and an abundant la bora DRY to draw from; aud
the other quiet home keeping and reflective
class, whose lives are full of duties. and who's
delicacy and refinement are instructive aud
part of themselves, not the growth Of an ex e
the commences of what is beneath The first
Trail rich laces over delicate silk in the pri
vacy OF their own homes, because they are
Soflness because they can DO SO, but not in
glare and show, and they select the most
modest and least pretentiOus of their costumes
for the most public and promiscuous occa-
siOns.
The second-Arm themselves with neatness
and neutrality. The plain dark or neutral
shade IS enc CHOSEN because it is lever c1n.
other. The afternoon dress of twentycent
lawn is as indicative of the lady as the soft
trou trOu silk and valencienceS for it is de St-
tute OF the obtrusive. ruf1iing and patent lace
edging, which has become the insignia Of
vuIgarity, and may be worn in its sim picity
with as much propriety next year and the
But these two circles, or classes, are in the
minority. They are represented very sparlns
ly III the crowds at watering-place in the
streets. among the thrOngs upon cars and
steamboats,, or at the gay pleasure resorts. Ia
stead, there are numerous specimens Of the
forlOrn, the incOngruous, the grOtesque, ald
the hideous or idiotic in their clothing: 0le
wonders, looking at them how go ID material,
were ever made to look so utterly and help
IeSsly limp lank, ugly aud inadequate You
will see on the street cars tall, angular woman
juvenile vests and cutaway jackets; you will
see stout, d-stOuldered, large faced
women wearing "Coolie'' hats, which take out
at once the gleam Of intelligent expression
they may have pos essed; and all sorts of
women displaying fancy designs and srolg
contrasts OF color in common fabrics and in
the most public places.
QUAKER REACTION.
1t is pity that a reaction could not take
place which, for time at least, would give us
Quaker nea!ness and simplicity in our mode
the very sources OF all fashion. But that is
impossible, because the busy business and
trading class, from which fashions spring,
tive and inspiration of fashion. the rGis5n
d,etre Of its existence, and their interests are
bound up with is development in this direc-
ignorant followers of changing styles, are
more. to be pitied than blamed, for they are
not the workers, they are more truly the sac
of diversified trade interests. What emanci-
patton it would be for thousand, of women for
once to be freed from the tOrturing anxiety as
example, suitable for everyday needs, and
another which shall be recOg gniZed everywhere
by its more elegant cut and cOStlineSS of tex
ture as suitable for any SO; ;ial occasion. We
have the basis for such dresses in the newest
waking suit with jacket attachment, and the
square or shaped bodice, with the pretty
elbow sleeves and plain trained or trimmed
skirts. The styles are sufficiently the fashion
not to be strange: all they want is recognition
and for respectable number of respectable
women to adopt them as permanent. Tnls
becoming too preci us to waste them in an
eternal chase after novelty which has SUCH
poor results.
he period we are passing through, it Is to be
hoped, is a transition stage II GU sht to bt
Known as the sloppy era-everthin5 runs over
and is without strength and snuntneSs, truth
or honesty. II we get good thing we turni
qualities. or make additional sources of tor
ment. AS, for instance, when we adopt d
sensible jacket with useful pockets, We tax
are needed aud put them on the back wher.
they are wholly unnecessary and therefor
FOOLISH and where to put them to use would b
simply tn court theft and put temptation
the way of those who consider it only oppor-
tunity.
DRESSES FOR SUMNER DAYS.
The high colors, the punching up of fabrics
sary material Is especially exasperating
through the heats of July such as We have
just passed. The temperature of even our
northern summer is such as to make comfort
OF the highest Importance; health and GER
taihly activity, depend upon 1t. A burden
some dress, or one with trail upon which has
and which needs yards upon yards OF cotton
beneath it to keep it in due position, is a
Weariness beyond the power of words to ex
Ehn nv.l.yn l.
lettes for such season are of fine linen or cot
ton. and fOulard silk. Where the heat is not
so intense, grenadine may be worn over plain
fOulard, and muslin over Italian silk or col
ored batis1e; but the designs should be found
from weight and Celebration, and made 80 as
to be light and cool-.ooking as well as in
reality.
A very pretty outfit made for Saratoga
included i'll It's list lovely toilette Of White
lawn trimmed with white hand embroidery
and bows of dark olive and pale blue ribbon.
cline, which Is a very delicate kind of bunting
as fine as berage. This was made as Prin-
cesse, with smallsized paniers and demi.
train. The trimming consisted of bands of
Indian embroidery and bows of crimson and
god cOlOred satin ribbon. The bodice was
cut square and the sleeve reached only to the
elbow. Both were finished with ruffies of old
lace.
A dress for garden party was of pale blue
lawn, made nearly short, with kilt plated
tiounce, a round bodice, and a little fichu
Valenciennes lace, placed upright on short
Overskirt, which was turned up and tied back
q LGCeuSe.
A stylish black grenadine costume presented
several novel features. The demitrain skirt,
finished with a bOx-plaited fOunce, was Of
black satin the pOlOnaise was striped with
satin and trimmed down the front with dOu.
BILE cascade of black Spanish and white Valen-
ciennes lace, in the shells Of which were placed
narrow black satin bows. The back had
peculiar lacing of black satin pipings and
loops, which formed an ornament upon the
drapery below the waist line.
A great deal OF distinction Is given to sum-
mer toilets by the use of masses of wide
TOrchQn and wide Valerciennes lace. This
must not be cOnfOunded with tine narrow
patent edgings which are used to finish the
ruffieS of ShOp-made dresses. The distinction
between the one and the other Is GOO marked
for comparison.
- A lovely wrapper belonging to the same out
fit was Of purely Gabrielle cut, and made of
fine white linen lawn, trimmed with cascade
Of the delicate pink and blue, or what is
known as the POmpadOur tOrchOn lace. There
were no ribbons upon this dress. Toe outlines
were traced in exquisite needlewOrk, and lace
rutfieS Ornamented the sleeves, (Which were
only demilong and quite narrOw,) the neck,
which closed at the throat and the pockets
The whole effect was wonderfully soft, be-
cause unbroken by any interpOlated lines o
colorlng.
For a walking dress there was pretty,
pale maStic colored depige, with no trimmin
save pipings of silk of the same shade, aud
ruf NJ yyhi lace with