The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1878-10-06
HOW IT STRIKES A WOMAN.
MUST THE PLSYWRIGHT AND ARIIST
MAKE WAY ron THE MILLINER?
a Visit to Four Theatres TINT Taught n Lesson
-Genevieve Ward. Nine. Modjeskn, aud
Mrs. Florence ss Their Maids Attire Them


The lavish expenditure, not to say rcck-
less extravaganza. with which plays arc put
upon the stage nowadays. has been severely
and Justly criticised by the press. But the
critic who sits in the auditorium and witnesses
the subordination OF art to tho articles Of the
dressmakcr and the scene painter can form
only faint idea Of the extent and ramiilcations
OF the mischief. His view is from II purely
aesthetic point. lie knows. perhaps. but does
not consider IL his province TO trace tho effect
back to its foundation in the ethics Of the situa
ton.
Neither does the fashion reporter, to whom
Is sometimes assigned the almost impossible
task OF describing the dresses Of actresses.
consider 1t her duty TO show how utterly impos-
sibe 1t is for women. and for that matter men
too. sometimes. to become artists in the true
sense Of the word. who are tortured with the
collection and care of wardrobes such ~ royalty
itself does not indulge in Mt the present day;
and. added TO this. the senseess habit OF chang
ing the dress for every at OF the play. The
highest art is only attanabo to the highest ma
ture. The genius that eXpends its best forces
in designing dresses and studying the effects OF
costume must sooner or later suecumb to the
fulfilling tendencies Of such studies
We will cease ere long to have Raches. Ris-
torls Sddonscs. Booths. Macrcadys. Talmas.
and Salvinis. II we progress in the art Of stage
dressing and spectacular effects az we have
since Mr.. Lester Wallack began thirty years
ago to inaugurate what was at that time
needed reform IN stage scencries and costumes.
How can mn artist become other than weak in
grent roles when the dress Is more than the
man or the woman And this principle applies
10 managers rs well ~ 10 artists. manager
should be II man Of cultivation aud taste. How
can he be either when his mental resources are
taxed To tho utmost with the production OF PLAYS
I'D al
the Skin OF the sccne painter and the ingenuity
Of the carpenter? How can he secure the tai
cnt demanded by truly Intelligent pluygOvrs
when he caters for the sensuous eye, that can
be- cnughtby pomp and splcndor, rather than
To- thnt refined and critical one. which appreci-
ates the correct rendition ot role by an artist
whose soul II uusullIed with low ambitions.
whose mind will be- content with nothing short
OF perfect conception and rendition OF char
actrr-ono who studies with conscienrcf
, TO exempliiy with facts. There are now on
the boards OF four Of our leading theatres four
successful. paying plays The principal parts
in each are represented by artists whose names
ar, very famil liar in the dramatr Procession.
At Booth .. where Genevieve Ward ana NHndrn-
hoI are playing queen Catherine and llOlstg
in Henry ye Eighth. Whatever may be the
port. both are lost sight OF In the sp"ndOr Of
the spectacle. | have been there night after
night. both before and behind the scenes. Ii is
"a "a spectacle equal To Henry Flith.' as repre-
s"nted tn r. four years ago IL takes 221 per-
sons in all u put II on the stage. The amount
Of money expended for gas. calcium lights. md
exploding batteries. costumes and scenery in
Guiding the panorama Of the Thames ~ the
Kings galley a-ccnds the river. passing under
old London bridge and through the most mag
niilceut parts OF the city OF that period. and
the mechanism that brings the eight angels
down beam Of light IN Queen GATHERINGS
dream. would startle the ghost of Shakespeare
gr those OF any old-tme lovers OF his plays.
singular are the Improvements made upon the
ideas of the Bard of Avon.
1t costs about ten thousand dollars TO produce
not Include Miss Ward dresses. That's a sep
arnte matter. In the first act she wears u dress
which. as designed by the great Mr.. Louis Wing
1eld anu made 10y Paris dressinnker exceeds
in splendur all that any ordinary bookish lover
oi Shakespeare ever conceived. no matter what
his or her powers OF Imagination may Toe. The
krte II ot whit" satin. fringed with many rows
of gold and liver !ringes. The robe opening
over II AMI falling away in an immensely long
Train IN the hhck Is OF dark ruby-cOlored velvet
lined and bordered with crimson. loop~d with
STA large lrw"lled stars glrdlri with diamonds
and other Jewels. IN" long end forming flash
~. Elir'tlhs mrd tNllinG over The KIM" IN
'front.' The crow,'ls studi 4 with u wealth OF
diamonds and other crown Jewels ~ England.
diamonds the gold-fringed handkerchief the
pulled and slashed sleeves. tho ermine stom-
hchcr Hnd gold anu red shoulder cushions.
make up Il picture too dazzling for Queen who
already had discovered that her influence over
the heart OF her lord WIS on the wan-.
In the next act the audience SEQ her in the
trial scene. scarcely less mugn ncrnty attired
IN u white satin krtc OF u different make. and
green corduroy velvet rube und train. q
coruu"t ~ jewels. ustomAcher Of satin strapped
with gold. ana the whole costume, undoubtedly
audience To- attend 10 much else than the splen-
dor Of the gentle Queen distress.
In the next act. catherine wears another eN-
quislte ana wrll-chos"n costume, and stu
another of gray silk. with chinchilla fur trim
minEs in the druth scene. II II a Little remark
ahit that Miss Ward does not begin To touch or
move her auilcn'" until she laws OF her robes
q state. and that until hrr glOrIrs and splendOrs
bass away and she becomes hy nm n1mirnt,l.
make up. AN Old woman in the death scene she
elects no compassion for her misiortunrs. Ii
Is a. difficult 10 ieel sorry Tor woman Aitired
In Af.alt
II Is Tor one who rRNrs. and scouts anu irets
over her fate. l have seen Miss Ward. AS
Queen Catherine. die five times ana was moved
almost To tears each time. Her gray SILK dress
has great deal 30 DO with the pathos OF the CO.
caslUn. Whoever is admitted behind the scenes
AT Booth :. and sees the exhaustion OF the ac-
tress al the close of This performance. Will be
struck with the thought that on some night She
will be- apt to conclude her luDors with IA real
instead OF Il mo'k death.
But tne exhaustion is. In great measure. at
trbulable to the frequent changes OF her cos
tune.
At the Fifth, Avenue Theatre the admirers
OF Madame .ModJeska find that the fautlcss
costumes which she wore IN amllle 20
last year have been thrown aside. The
American pubic demands new ones. Five
times does THIS mAtchlcss artistic robe and dis
robe at every performance Of Camille" Her
first dress IS OF ten rose colored iAillc and Per-
SIAN brOcaded satin and velvet The dress is
IN the very latest style % make up, The dag
onal. loupcd side scnrfs give Il hint OF tho
coming paniers. The open square corsaCe,
with lis high collar slightly rolled In front 10
SHOW inc : NIl't Nllhg. Is thu admiration Ot
every society belle who, as soon rs fdWtlie steps
on the stage levels her opera glass. not 10
s'rutlntz" the deliucatiOn OF the character by u
genius which comprehends and faithfully rem
ders thus most difficult role. but 10 study-ior
imitation, pcrhHus-th" toilet OF the art ste.
In tho sucuud act LdHiNc wears u robe COM
posed OF white fallie. simple. elegant. class 10
/ creation, It's drapcries formed 10y two white
| CHINA Grape scuris. THIS dress is Modjesku's
own design. All her other dresses ARE left 10
III" taste and ingenuity Of her dressmukrr, VINO,
/ OF course, - an artist in ms or her line, and
when clnsslc or historic roles are 10 br per-
formed her numerous artist friends. the pHint-
ers and sculptors ol Paris. come To her aid and
design them for her. She places their designs
in the hands OF her dre~smakeIs accom- panied
with explicit directions. and that is tho end OF
the matter to her until sne puts them on.
Inc Simple toilet of blue cachmerc and Tor
chun luce IN which she appears in the thiri act
OF Camille and which Is So mucn admired.
she ASSURED me cost the modest sum OF fifteen
dollars. Tine bull dress II the fourth act cost
three thousand francs IN Paris. II Is q marvel
OF creamy wnlte satin meo. hrOcHde. frin.rs. Sill
Yer tlnsrl. ana HOVER ghrultures. and however
mu'h thr urtst may forget the dress in the
EFFORTS required by tn" situation in the play Ut
tue moment she WruIs II, ! am sure the eyes he
nina the opera gHs-rs SEQ more ol the dress
than they perceive 90 ModlrskA's inlmitabe art
WHAT would tlry nut give to See tue drcs sr-