The New Orleans daily Democrat., 1878-10-27
FASHION NOTES.
MATERIALS.


MATERIALS.
| 1t might be safely asserted that all of the new
goods that are not called "suitings' are shown
to customers as coatings - consequently. both
| names being SO entirely general are not in the
least descriptive, as widely different things are
included In each classification. Plaids, which
are very popular both for ladies' and childrens
dresses. are not confined to any particular ma
| terial, but are found In silk, wooden and cotton
dress goods. The startlingly snowy plaids. OF
| vivid colors and inharmonious combinations,
| that were worn many years ago, are here again,
but do not meet with the favor that Is given to
paids with tho pleasing soft effects rendered
by grave or dark colors. Among such are the
self-colored plaids. which ore happy blendings
of large. irregular plaids in many shades of
gray, brown Oh. .prune color. as well as the warm.
| rich mixture of one or two shades Of very dark
red, sobered by proximity with black: and the
tartans, whore the dark blues and green's are
Illuminated by. narrow lines of scarlet or gold
intervals. Quite heavy cloth is woven in these
plaids. but the colors and combinations are
! or any good quality of all wool goods At much
lower prices, greater variety OF plaids and
checks h2wa IN mtqre OF e9t9n r aad
of the two, the latter Is most deserving Of re-
commendation as being the more durable,
resembling Biarritz cloth. but differing euf1l.
clently to. admit, of its coming under the head
noveeg New basket I{S Soths oof as
stitches Of floss silk, which light It up effectively
A curious fabric which has the advantage of
| being entirely new. and which does not seem to
be favored with any particular name. has
ground of soft wool with raised figures, which
have almost the appearance OF being felted on.
| Broeade silks are still fash hionabe notWith-
standing the attempts to revive moire antique
and watered silks. Black and dark coiored
silks, with seeded or birds-eye grounds, have
| Emall flowers GDtOTE.
| at regular distances.
| STYLES OF MAKING AND TRIMMING DRESSES.
Yoke waists are still worn by young ladies,
particularly by those who are tall and slender.
A fashion that may not recommend itself to
everybody is the caprice for making the basque
of different material from the rest Of the dress.
richer Of the two and it Is not necessary to have
1t correspond with the trimming Of the dress.
Gathered Or pufed plastrons are still seen upon
many dresses, not only the long centre one. but
another upon each side, Of it, Embroidered
pIastrons, in this and other, forms. are also
used upon visiting, dinner and evening dresses,
The liking for short street dresses is far from
declining. and most OF the imported walking
costumes this autumn A. are 5hort or athd9ughie 81
with them in the summer neither do they have
the ,cut-taway Jacket and vest that was consid-
cred Indspensabe: but the waist may be q
basque or plated blouse, according t., the taste
of the wearer. The overskirt, in either case,
may have the lauand ere Or washerwoman front,
the back supplied by the long. perpendicular
plaits in the underskirt. The English or Manly
ud 6e9fe y 9 f9 1
'v are very ~ much much used and two deep ruifies Of
by many ladies preferred to the entire killed
ski irts. Upon, paids. especially If the
are ct III sFibng it Is c0o
aehng Of fG the bars IN The pa ? The
drapery Of polonaises and oyerskirts Is higher
up and more boufant and on some newly-im-
| nOrtGI dresses
arrangements OF loopings, and large bows,
which prodqce very much the same result IN
outline. Flat trimmings are much used, and
bias folds of velvet and satin are among the
most popular striped velvet for vests square
tunes. A stylish black silk carriage dress,
recently imported, has vest Of black and gold
striped velvet. and IS trimmed with bands OF
black, velvet embroidered with tiny suntlowers
(the French areRem Dl oying sunfoWers in deco
ration Just now, and finished with a. scallop
upon the lower edge aud a narroW ", band Of
edges the tunic, which separates at the back in
shawl points which fall over the train, showing
striped velvet. Upon the bottom Of the train
are two very fine and full ,plisses of silk each
with q bias fold of the black and gold striped
velvet. The basque is made with an elonga-
ton of the two centre back seams to form long
loops, which are corded with the striped velvet.
inclnes to color; there is now but little of the
monotone in costumes and even black dresses
adn ad"2ngH gGmbG mnss 9 b BY Ed bg go ba
ehAS SAhOiA
ribbon bows
| WRAPS.
Even with the short dresses an independent
wrap is preferred to one matching the dress.
The mantillas Of serge, cashmere and Sicili-
enne that were popular in the spring will not
be rejeetedd for autumn S Saeaues Of yasriops a "a
breviated skirts must be shorter than the long
sacaues Of last year For winter they may haye
cloths. Intended for the present season. are very
plain and masculine in cut and finish. TWeeds.
cheviots, cashmerettes, diagonals, small checks,
these Jackets. AS q fOretaste OF what we may
expect in the future. fur dealers are exhibiting
| regal looking dolmans of extra size. made of
dark, rich sealskin OF surprising quality.
MILLINERY.
The early wholesale openings give such va
riety that. knowing from past experience that
all will not meet with equal favor. one finds it
difficult to know, which to recommend. The i'm
ported pattern hats, which are 1ndorsed with
| the makers names, that give the stamp of ee-
gance, may, however, be safely taken as models:
The shapes are mostly close at the sides, and
| with large square or else Normandy crowns
! The Josephine or first Empire bonnets are still
among the importations, and in white plush or
satin. with white feathers for trimming, are
very elegant. particularly 50 for brides Striped
velyets and pushes. plain yelvets and satin
and an abundance of ribbon form the trimming
all kinds, foliage and flowers Red and several
shades Of gold color. olive. garnet. blue and
bronze are among the leading colors. Red is 50
popular and there are so many shades of it
that it continues to get itself associated with al
most everything'else in millinery. Following
naments In which garnets are set are used upon
handsome hats. Bars Of rolled gold. Of silver
| and of jet are also used. Bonnets made all Of
velvet leaves. like the floral hats of the summer,
are very stylish. Not less SO are some which
are composed entirely Of feathers. Felt and
mings put on in fiat and compact style. except
at the front. where flowers or. feathers are
massed or the space is occupied by large Al
! satan bow.
RAW ST TATIES