The Rutland daily globe. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1873-1877, 1877-07-27
Especial Correspondence Of the Globe.l
Visit to ProYincetoWn. Cape Cod

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Taking passage on the staunch steamer
Gov. Andrews, we sailed down Boston
harbor, passing the many points of inter
est, among which are Governors island !;
Castle island, on which stands Fort Inde-
pendence Deer island, with its buildings
for the city institutions; Thompson's
island, with its buildings of the Boston
asylum and farm school for INDECENT boys !;
also Spectacle and Long islands. We
passed through the Narrows, leaving Low
ellis island and Bug light on the left and
Gallop's and Georges islands on the right.
We arrived at the outer lighthouse. Pass
ing out OF the harbor into Massachusetts
bay and keeping eastern portions of the
coast on the right, with the bread expanse
of ocean on the left, we proceeded in
south-easterly direction, our vessel blowing
majestically through the dark waters.
Looking out upon this tIackless waste, we
saw small, dark object, which, when 1t
approached, proved to be large ocean
steamer, and still others, some noble ships,
others smaller craft. / will here FAY ore
can hardly fail Of learning lesson of DO.
likeness from the conduct of these steamers.
For instance: We pass very small
steamer and she salutes US with her shrill,
piping whistle, and Immediately, in the
deep-toned bass of our steamers whistle
comes the answering salute. Even in pass
ing barge, loaded with people on some
holiday excursion, and receiving a salute
from an ordinary boatswain's whistle,
the same respectful reply was made
as TO the largest vessel. Three
| and one-half hours after leaving Bos.
ton, we found ourselves in picturesque
Provincetown and standing there we seemed
to have left all America behind u.s. Though
not fifty miles from Boston in an air line,
Cape Cod is regarded as sort of terra in
cognia by half of the people of New Eng
land. Cape Cod is but wilderness of sand
where for thirty miles would scarcely be
seen stone of any size. Cape Cod has
been called the barred and Bonded arm of
Massachusetts, the elbow at Chatham, the
wrist at Truro and the half closed fingers at
Provincetown. Following this smile. on
the end Of the fingers stands Woodsend
light house, which seems to welcome us to
the beautiful circular harbor of Province
town. Bartholomew Gosnold ard John
Breton were the first white men to land
here, later the forefathers brought up here,
but the water was 30 shallow they could
not reach the shure in boats and the people
were compelled to wade ashore, and it be-
ing Monday the women did their washing,
thus initiating the great New England
washing day. At that time Long Point,
the site of Woodsend light house, was
wooded down to the shore, now it is en-
trely dcnuded of trees.
In l749 Provincetown IS said to have
consisted of only two or three families,
and few cows and sheep; now it numbers
some thousands of inhabitants, has three
or four churches, several hotels and hume
rous places of business. The streets are
composed of an admixture of clay with |
top dressing of oveter SHELLS ""o peuuies, |
which makes them sufficiently solid, aside
from these it is deep sand. Most of the |
houses are of wood. Willows, poplars, To- |
Gusts, balm OF Gilead, lilscs, syringas and |
a few kinds seem to unremittingly strive |
for life. All the earth is imported. The |
town is situated on the shore of the hatbor, |
opposite the entrance and has two princi- |
pal streets, each a mile in length, one runs |
along the harbor, the other follows an ele- |
waited ridge of the sand Hills parallel with |
the first. A plank walk is laid on one side |
OF the avenue by the shore, the other side |
being occupied by stores, fish houses and |
warehouses. The harbor is completely |
landlocked and has good anchorage for the |
largest vessels. The town is of extreme |
length as compared with its breadth and |
lies fronting the southeast and is the ter
minus of the Cape Cod railroad, 100 miles |
from Boston, and about 60 miles by water.
On the summit of Tower hill (from which |
the town house has been burned) we were
almost astride of the Cape, having the At
lantic one side and Massachusetts bay in
full view on the other. Ships come and
go by hundreds, folding their wings and
settling down on the water like weary sca-
gulls.
There is quite colony of Portuguese in
Provincetown. They look Gypsie like,
with their swarthy faces aud cleaning
eyes. Cod and mackerel fisheries form the
main industry of the inhabitants, while
some go whaling in tchooners to the gulf
of Mexico, the Western islands, or far up
the north coast. Whales used to abound
in the waters. of Cape Cod bay, but now
about the only "Reminiscences Of whales to
be seen in Provincetown is a gateway
formed of the ribs of whale before the
door of cottage. Cranberry culture has
also become quite an important industry on
some parts Of Cape Cod, vines producing
abundantly in what appears to be pure
white sand. On returning we pursued u
somewhat different route, passing close to
the noted Minot's ledge lighthouse, and re-
ceived a salute from its lonely occupants,
by waving of handkerchief, to which we
were not slow in responding. We arrived
in Boston eight and half hours from the
time of leaving, having enjoyed an eXcur-
sion to which we shall often revert with
feelings of genuine pleasure. TVS