The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1877-05-06


ing the Though certainly bess adapted In IT'S
smpcs; form 10 rich, heavy goods, Il can DO so ar
ranged In lighter fabrics 70 be both elegant and appro
Tho ..Msrcia' poonaise is nmoug tho new patterns
10 be introduced this month ia the princess mode, and
is graceful and stylish The drapings novel aud
irregular. II 10 tight 1tting, with seam down tho
shoulders, while the front Is fitted with two darts on
each SIDE and tho third under each arm
ooviaes the necessity Tor cross seams at INC waist nc
The left side OF the front carried over 10 the riSht
side and makes a long, fully drapcd apron.
The alexandra" polonase Is severely simple IN de
sign, and Is one OF tho most elegant OF the many. IL
is tight htting, and buttons all tho way down tho BACK
without any iooplngs
Tho "Veronque' polonnisc Is another OF the modih-
cations OF the princess In dress skirts tho Lconic"
and tho "Eugenic'' tram are Just introduced The
design has the front breadth and side OF the
skirt Cut In the ordinary manner, and the back de-
scribes fn-shapcd tram formed by tho addition OF
"spanish" founcc Over this skirt is draped apron
and at tho side are deep tabs Joined az tie back py
bows
The second Is an attractive novelty tho style of
the undcrskirt well in the arrangement OF the
drapery Owing to popularity in tho manner OF
cutting tho train naturally assumes its lanke FORM
anG requires neither strings cnstcs TO hold IN
position The scarf drapery Is Irregular Dut especay
graceful
Tho basque and ovcrskirt are by no means dis
carded, and tho curass has too well proven It's excel
rounded IN front and slightly pointed In the back.
This Design has tho fronts crossed dagonaliy and m-
ted with tho usual number OF darts on each side The
back with double side forms and there Is seam
the middle as far as the waist iinc; below ms
In sleeves there Is precisely the same degree OF lib
eriy; 1t is liberty with certain restrictions Sleeves
must account be wido loose but they may DO
oil below the elbow, be carried down 10 the
wrist, left out altogether according To taste or
course tho latter Irccaom IS only allowed III ,iur'
dress which ttc dress above as you choose,
but good deal below
BRIrrASY DRESS.
Tho Breton offered not only In a compli-
Gated condition, but also in piece outlined that 10
only necessary to put together according 10 tho
directions, and tho entire costume, embroidered TRIM
this costume was confined 10 the colors and peculiar
trimmings which form its distinctive features in tho
country IRON which 1t imported; but II has been
subjected gradual notifications until now, although
retaining It's numerous buttons aud fancy brads, II has
lost the peculures that made It rather conspicu
dress Tor those OF quiet tastes IL Is seen III dif-
icrent shades OF gray brown and green, as well as IN
bright blue.
EVENING cosTrMEs-JswELRy
For evening toilets combinations OF rich silks and
delicate gauze-lkc fabrics almost the rule. The
silks form the foundation Tor the drapcrics which arc
arranged in scars tuncs for tho SKIRT aud hchu Tor
the corsage Flowers are used III proiusion and form
sometimes tho entiro apron. surround both skirt
and tune in graceful gariands: Following, perhaps,
the example OF the Queen OF England al the opening
OF Parliament aud her recent receptions the display
OF jewels ornaments ut evening entertain
ments atoy gwen abroad has been more tnan usually
brilliant
GORGEOUS RECEPTION DRESS.
exhibited last week, shows light blue silk skirt and
sleeves and brocaded ovcrdrcsS cut IN the pcpium
shape the brocade showing Ave distinct colors adnra-
bly, blended. the edge OF this ovcrdress rs finished
with deep fall Of Nacncicnnes lace OF most cxquls-
lie pattern, headed with piping oil blue SIX. Tne
bottom of the skirt IS Trimmed with pink ruching OF
silk, nne inches wide, IN Ave different coors IN rain
bow shades This combination IL quite new and The
effect is stylish and elegant The short elbow sleeves
trimmed with vacncienncs lace anu fine flowers,
and the neck is similarly garnitured.
Tho new baskctwork texture. striped or otherwise
figured small armure patterns are in endless variety.
Tho n,osdque, oil the pretticst is OF almost an
pcrceptable Cheek and combines admirably with CASH
mere, beige and various other plain seii,colorcd
materials 1t true that dark shades ST II 10 be
seen, are still fashionable, ana will be all summer in
linens, silks and grenadines but many OF the novelties
in spring and summer Iabrics remind one oil the Old
fashion chahis They are delicate, soft and Quakerish
in their wood tints
diamonds, only DO worn by royalty; but an APP
proach least to TINS prnccly maRnhccnce was made
by who had her dress confined by buttons OF
rubos. worth $4,000. and by others using diamonds
In the manner ana even worn IN ornaments on
the shoe In TO convert these things OF beauty
INTO articles for tho skill OF the jeweicr has been
taxed to mount the precious stones that they may
be dsengaged by one, from the brooch or medal
Ion and singly any desired manner. IL rs to
be feared that such lavish and indlscrimnate use oil
what has heretofore been specially valued because OF
It's rarity will compel ladies OF taste and refinement to
appear without jewels, 1t being really more d,stague
not TO wear them.
THE MANTLE PAR EXCELLENCE.
II has been positively decrccd by Dame Fashion tha:
DO reggie must not appear IN the street with
out some outside wrapping and she has kindly pre-.
pared u small sbawl--vcry like hchu-tv pe thrown
he shoulders and take the place OF mantilia,
though II must by no means conceal the rich dress.
For walking thus shawl Will be black lace
or thin dark goods while for the age dress
casons 1t white or light colored fabrics. Crepe
fairs oil this kind also Ia fine cambria or muslin,
with lace trimmings. Those black drap d'cte, en-
brodered SILK and edged with fringe, are exceedingly
pretty and ladykc.
SHAWL DoLMAy.
This design Is new and forms graceful and stylish
garment, describing deep, divided points, both back
and front, and having seam down Tho back slightly
curved to the figure 1t arranged SO as to fall easily
and without unnecessary funess over the arms by the
OF inserted cores, and Is ornamcntcd with pointed
hood aud standing collar the latter having points
turned over In the back as well as IN the 'front.'
DRESSING
"The Quaker bonnet ana the drab silk do not ncces
sariy prove be SAINT, but is there not
something in the manner in which a woman arrays
herself 10 go TO the public worship OF God that ind-
Gates her real caracter?n Ladies Of taste should give
more attention 10 tho study OF church dress. PLAIN
dress Is much more appropriate and becoming and
church, except 1t be at wedding. Vulgar women
have but one reason method-nameiy show,
woman OF taste aud fashion ought not be ruled
by modstcs IN this matter. When woman OF wealth
appears her very best and richest clothing,
should be understood that sho has no other oppor
tunity OF showing II, and the lady OF taste and
good breeding Will always leave at homo rich jcwclry
and laccs. ono can be dressed unexccptionably but
in way not TO attract attention, unless Is by the
simple elegance OF her STYLE There are women who
afford rich clothing, and many OF these have
not The courage TO attend church when the heading
LADIES' appear dressed as II attending reception;
consequently they must retire or SIT III the hunilia
tion OF painful contrast with you. Every lady should
DO provided with PLAIN suit Tor church, ana u writer's
OF fashion and editors OF fashion periodicals would
take this matter IN hand We should have better
.schurch dressing" We commend TINS question TO the
Christianity our lady readers.
UMBRgLLAs AND PARASoLs.
Convenient and economical IS tho umbrella in
accordance with serviccabic travelling waterproof
suit but II not in harmony with the details oil
con,ctsh costume II oyershatiows and quite kills tho
effect OF "a pretty bonnet The sun parasols are small,
tho shades and trimmings selected expressly 10 match
dresses. The costume parasos are trimmed with a
ruilc having ravced edges md Innings Of tinted silk
matching the lining OF the paraso, furnishing very
pleasing effect Some have embroidered ruiics. aud
distinctive style has pinkcd scaiIopcd edge and
lining white light SILK, with butterfly cmbroid
cred In natural coors upon one Of the sections Those
parasols have jointed handles which render them
casy folded placed, when not in use. IN the dress
pocket TIC croquet parasois, oil tinted percac,
extremely pretty Tor country wear, and should be
cared in colors 10 match percalc suits
In order that tho toilet may be perfected lot the
glove, while perfectly itng, bo OF such texture as 10
give the idea OF scrviceablcncss. Something new Is
always for the opening OF fresh seasons and