The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1877-12-13

ONE Oh the most popular designs for
both house dresses and street suits is
that which has q basque and npron in
front, with the back in. princcsse style,
with waist and skirt in one. For street
suits this design is carried out as an
over-dress to be worn with q lower
skirt of silk. For evening and full
dress toilettes the lower skirt is dis
pensed with, and the princesse back
tbreadths are heightened to form q
train. The last design is being much
used for plain silk dresses, either black
or dark stylish colors, especially when
only one material is used for the dress.
Black silk dresses are very popular
made in this way, and trimmed with
plated frills of French lace. Chenille
| fringe is used for colored silks, orlelse
they are simply corded on the edges.
Ladies who study economy find this
design useful for making new sover-
dresses that may be worn over part
ly-worn skirt, as the pattern almost
covers the lower skirt, and gives the
effect of astylish princesse dress. From
ten to twelve yards of silk are required
for the over-dress.
A very elegant wedding dress just
completed shows how two. materials
are combined in this way for full dress.
The front of the waists which is a
lsqnare-neck basque, sand the entire
princesse back, are of white brocaded
silk; the gathered apron is of plain gros
grain, and is made on the lining of the
lower skirt-which is really the only
skirt-and the edge is finished with
plated founces on the three front
breadths. The princesse back, with
| five long seams from the shoulder down
over the tournure, is of the rich bro
cade, not draped, but falling plainly in
a long flowing train that is merely
edged with single plating of plain
silk sewed to the bottom, not set upon
it. The front of the basque is merely
piped on the edge. The square neck
has point lace, crepe lisse, and orange
blossoms around it, and spray of the
flowers extends over the left side ike
1.-THE end of a fiehu. The sleeves of
brocade are turned back AT the eli
bow like cuff, and filed out with a
puff of lisse and frills. Garlands of
orange blossoms are curved around the
apron, and tiny humming- birds nestle
in the flowers. A jabot of lace is down
each side where the apron and train
meet A dinner dress from Worth s
belonging to this trousseau is of dark
wine-colored silk brocaded with pale
blue. The waist of brocade has round
front, belted, while the back is pos
tilion basque, merely piped, and
weighted down with leads in the cor
ners to hold it down. The straight
square apron is of the brocade, cover
ing three front breadths, and fringed
across the bottom. The back is flow
ing train of wine-colored silk merely
plated around the edge. Bows ofydark
red and pale blue ribbon trim the
front. Worth is making many of these
flowing trains in preference to the Hat
fan trains introduced last winter. and
his dresses are remarked this winter
for their simple trimmings. The visit
ing dress for the bride to return calls in
was a skirt of olive green gros grain,
with a velvet over dress of the same
shade, made, with vest front, deep
panels on the side. and princesse back.
Old gold-colored silk, raveled as fringe,
was used to head the plaitings and
tighten the dark olive, velvet and silk.
Another fancy Of Worth's is that of
finishing the back of basques in loops
made by turning up the end of each
form separately. These loops are very
effective, are easily made, and take the
place of more expensive trimmings;
some basques have but two loops, 9TH
ers have four. The round waists are