The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-05-11
Vanity Fair.

large undenned stripes are 1asnlonaole.
Bellies wear bouquets on the left shoulder,
with ribbons streaming from them; beaux
wear corresponding colors in their cravats.
The most costly painted fans are decorated
IN Moral sprays OF subdued colors, which will
not contrast too strongly with any dress, and
are suitable for half-mourning.
In Paris ball shoes are now being worn
with gold and silver heels, and real pearl
buckles Sometimes even rubies and diamonds
are added.
The new style of arranging the hair adopted
by young men is said to be a Ia Amadeus, of
Spain. We think it Ia Born Idiot. of New
York. Paste this item in every prominent bar
Der shop.
1t is at last discovered that black needs To
be suited to the complexion as much as colors.
Blonde freshness or red-haired fairness needs a
soft, deep shade, as velvet; brunette needs
gloss and sheen, like those Of satin, Lyons silk
or falle; stately, dark pallor is set off by dead
black
The prize hair-dressing at a recent pro-
fessional contest in Paris was In the Louis XVI
style. The hair was golden, and fell in front as
waved fringe over the forehead, while the
back was composed of interlaced loops, with
thin spiral ringlets, terminating with bulky
frizgled curl.
When Alexis was at the Academy he took
off his right glove and rested his bronzed hand
on the box cushion rail. Very soon every
young snob in the house had only the left glove
on, and Miss Abbott, with an eye to fun and
sarcasm, when she came on in the last act
quietly removed her right glove. An audible
smile went over the house.
The oldest thing yet is the cheese-curd
jewelry, invented by a Mr.. Frannberger of New
York and manufactured under his direction by
concern at Leominster. The cheese or curd
Is procured from the New York daires, and Is
first boiled with water until reduced to LIQUID,
to which chemicals are added which separate
the curd from the water and also give it coral
like color. 1t is then subjected to a Acton
pressure. and comes out in sheets about one
foot square and half an inch thick, five pounds
of the curd making about one pound Of "napo-
line, as the composition is called. After dry.
ing it is then cut out by powerful presses, etc.,
and is made at present in fine imitation of
coral, although it can be made in any color.
Gail Hamilton appears to consider Mrs.
Hayes plainness of attire hardly encouraging
80 the dress reformers She says in the Chris
tisn Union: There is not q woman from
Mount Desert to Vancouver's Island who would
not be willing to economic any day in a CAM
els hair shawl costing three or four times its
weight in gold. Mrs. Hayes wears her hair
plainly on the face and over the ears and fss-
in a kno txuift II
assert, from any L am hoier than thou I'D.
pishness, but because she knows she has face
fine enough to stand it, She assumes black
silk as innocently as the milkmaid dreamed of
green, because that suits her complexion best,
and because nothing is so dgnfied and dstin-
guished, and the attempt to throw wet blank
ct over woman's divine, artistic instinct Of
adornment by calling it Mrs. Hayes camePs
hair shawl, only adds another to the myrads of
futile efforts which man has already made to
gather thorns of grapes and thistles of igsp'
Mrs. Hooper describes the dresses worn BY
Albani in Lucia de Lsmmermoor:' "Her
toilettes all made by Worth. were very elegant
and tasteful, particularly the dress which she
wore in the first act. 1t was composed Of
blue so pale that it was but shade or two re-
moved from white. This train was sloped back
with Worth's own inimitabe grace of cut
over an underskirt of shrred white silk drawn
in longitudinal lines. This underskrt was cut
open in front up to the waist to afford glimpses
of quilted petticoat of scarlet satin. The cor.
sage of pale blue satin was cut square and had
half-long sleeves, finished with lace ruf1es
The bridal dress in the second act was COM
posed of heavy white silk, with an underskirt
covered with rows of narrow silver fringe, the
overdress being raised at the right in a novel
and graceful fashion, being folded upward so as
to present the effect of q hood scarf. The
splendid court costume which she wears in the
second act was one of Worth's most startling
combinations of impossible hues, pale Nile
green, lilac and the new color (the vivid orange
known as mandanrie) being blended together
with odd but not inharmonius effect
"A droll fancy lately developed at costume
balls-which by the way are in high favor
abroad at the present Incorporates to be
quite the fashion. This consists of travestying
the head only, and produces, as may be imag-
ined, both grotesque and frightful effects, the
ordinary ball toilets appearing in violent con-
trast with the parodied polls rising out of them.
AT recent masquerade ball in Paris, where
this innovation prevailed, elegant dresses fash
ioned after the latest modes were mounted with
Medusas, Agnes Sorels, Annes of Bretagne,
Judics, gygsies, Vatican peasants and other In
congruous heads. Disgusting the head only
proved equally disastrous to harmonious tout
ensemble among the other sex, as in the case
of the gentleman who, representing lie Mon
sieur Reveille," crowned q full. evening attire
with that at all times most hideous OF head
gears, a cotton night-cap drawn over frowsy
hair. Among the more pleasing delineatons
was that of "The Marvellous Cat" in which
the head of fine specimen of the feline race
was seen peeping from out the powdered Golf
fure of lady robed la mode. This same idea
was illustrated on another occasion, when en-
tire travesty was the rule, with dress of white
satin bordered about with soft white fur; and
gloves and shoes with claw-llke examinations
added The fancy for arraying themselves as
actresses has possessed the fashionable world,
and ladies are actually copying not only the
costumes but the characteristics of their mod
a1s