The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-04-26
lFrom Harper's Bazar.1
Paris Fashions.

A room full of Paris dresses, prinsipally
from Worth's, gives a fresh revelation Of the
incest styles for summer, especially for the
black grenadine dresses that are always liked,
no matter what novelties are introduced. The
nandsomest OF theselare made in princesse style
and are OF lace-striped grenadine, trimmed
Win bands or stripes of black satin. and many
rows OF pleated thread lace By way of styl-
ism relief, folds of mandarin yellow silk are
laid around the neck under the collar of pleated
black lace, but the yellow does not appear else,
where in the dress. The princesse corsage and
hips are of the plain lace-like grenadine, cut
with two long darts, short side body, and no
seam down the middle of the back; below this
in front and back are many bands Of satin two
inches wide, set lengthwise. The special nov
city IS the peplum points on each side Of these
princesse dresses, made by many rows of pleated
lace and deep fringe. The revers collar Of lace
Is in keeping with these peplum trimmings.
Down the front are three large bows of black
satin ribbon and jabot Of lace. The fiouncs
on the foot is alike all around, and, like those
on all stylish new dresses, is exceedingly aim.
pie, consisting merely of a wide gathered bias
nounce o. silk edged with narrow knife
pieating. Illleul green, old gold color or Ve-
save red silk may be used lin the neck instead
OF mandarin.
For those who prefer basques and oyer-,kirt,
are excellent models in the new habit basaues
with blouse fronts and deep apron over skirts.
trimmed with lace and shirred to represent two
aprons, while the back is square. long and ir-
regularly draped; The basques are similar to
the square habit basques illustrated last week.
but have pretty addition made by a straight
piece of grenadine on each front from waist 10
throat gathered quite full, but careless looking
tK,F II. tt
rilbon-satin on one side and gros grain on the
other; these ribbons are set on the back edge
OF the blouse part with a loop and pointed
end, and long strings are left to be tied BY the
wearer. The front of the basque is buttoned
up under the blouse; the edges are rounded in
front, short in the hips, and square behind. and
are simply piped; the back has long side forms
beginning on the shoulders. The collar Is In
English shape. The long over-skirt is trimmed
with thin lace-like galloon edged with thread
lace, and has many ribbon bows on each side.
Such dresses look well made of the small
figured brocaded grenadines. The skirt is Of
silk, but the over-skirt is sewed directly on this
silk, and the single fiounce is of grenadine,
eight inches deep, straight, and held in box
pleats that are placed very far apart and gath.
cred at the top. A band of galloon with lace
edging is at the top and bottom of such fiouncs
and some have lengthwise stripes Of the gal
loon between the box pleats.
For very young ladies the Juive over dress of
grenadine and barege will be made next sum-
mer by fashionable modistes. This is an over
skirt with breteles over the arms and omen
places on the sides below the hips. Very ele.
CANT models are Of black or Of white wool ba-
striped gauze ribbons five inches broad, show
Ing stripes OF cardinal satin between gauze
stripes that are wrought with cream-color.
Lhese are 70 be worn over silk dresses of black,
Among other novelties introduced this season
BY Worth are hounces made of alternate length.
wise stripes of the silk and the wool of the Co.'S
tune. These are each an inch wide at their
Oroadest, are pointed top and bottom. and in
stead of being gathered, are sloped narrower at
the top. The points there lie upon a knife.
pleatlng OF silk sewed on the skirt beneath.
Another fancy of his is to bind the edge of side
piests with contrasting color; thus on pleat-
ed flounce of rale blue faille, the long edge Of
each pleat is bound with olive. Knife-pleatings
OF plain silk flare open widely, and show that
they are lined throughout with brocaded or
striped silk, as dark blue is lined with striped
blue and yellow silk. The richest dresses have
most simple trimmings around the bottom, u.s.
uaily narrow founce alike all around. A nov
city is jabot OF knife.pleated silk for border.
ing the foot of the skirt. Sometimes there Is 9
BIAS piece OF silk laid in easy horizontal folds
the lower edge and jobot on the top Galloon
trims many hounces at top and bottom For
plain stuffs straight bands of striped goods are
set on the founces, initiating galloon with very
toOo ohCots 4O khtutK uOuuC6S 8b WIQo inter-
walls is again popular; narrower rufles, similarly
gathered, trim over skirts. Dark silk fiounces
are bound or piped with light silk, as olive
brown with cream-color. A pretty trimming
for silk skirts is a bias founce four inches Deep
In box pleats with wide spaces between,
headed by two erect box-pleated rufies half as
wide as the lower one, and each pleat drawn
over to the eide in a curve; this is pretty in
dark ruffies faced with lighter shade, which
is shown when the pleats are drawn to the
side.
Plastrons, square, round. .cornered, pointed in
heart shape, and long like vests, abound on
Worth's dresses. He also delights in belts in
front OF basques, and scarcely makes any two
alike. Some belts are more than a finger
length wide in the side seam after being gath.
cred there; they then slope away narrower,
and are fastened by gold buckle trifie to the
left of the front. Others are girdles pointed in
the middle on the upper edge, while the lower
edge is trimmed with rows of silk loops: Still
other belts are folds of satin buttoned In front;
all, however, begin on the sides, leaving the
back to show the graceful curve of the seams
without interruption. Square collars are on
many of these dresses; but these collars are
only seen in the back, where they are often AZ
deep as q yoke and are finished with fringe
across the bottom. The English collar is made
very high, and the fronts are rolled open yery
far to show the inside facing. The bow at the
throat is used invariably Two knlfe.plea.inRs
OF fringed silk grow in favor as a neat finish
for neck and wrists. Two standing rows of
pleated white lisse or muslin remain the popu.
lar French lingerie. Standing collars amp
cuffs OF dresses partly of wool and partly Of
SILK are made of alternate strips of each to