Evening star., 1877-10-06

by it, merit or Sa"t OF merit, by its o-auty
or ugliness. TIE -peci ally new and diSttuc
tive stN les ef the presen, sea on cons - of =
hat without q brim aud a no net gh irh might
be called the PrfEce>se, for il is Gu all In
one with no dividing line bet wean Grove and
trfm and Is simply charming apo heos.s
r nuns bonnet, made in sa ia or vel vet,
lined with delicate white satin or p'usn, "A I'd
trimmed wi hOut lace, feathers or flow
e4s The back OF the bonnet, or what consti-
lutes AL upr gnt crown, il cut open, AID a
very narrow revers shows The white lining,
while the simple orname ut bars il across.
but there Il no trimming upon the Inside
neither band nor ruching and the fastani z
fs effected with narrow double satin ribbon,
tied In bow at the side under the left ear
and severity ali other millinery creations re-
tire into the back ground. There are the
usual straight crowns aud soft crowns, aud
high crowns and no crowns at all. There are
brims turned up and brims turned down and
brims which are wig shaped and brims
which lie close TO the head; but the manner
of them is too mixed and too multifarous TO
admit of special description, the variations
and the diff rrences of so minute a character
as TO elude perception much more character
tzatiOn.
The general demand is that the bonnet shall
either match the costume or be made IN light
materials, for evening and reception pur-
poses.
Feathers are elegantly worn as ever, and,
In fact, The length aud beauty of the ostrich
plumes Is fast becoming one of the tests OF
sty lie aud social position Plain Lyons vel
vet is, as last year, the fabric most ussi for
winter bOnnets, but satin is still mpre used
for trimming, and there are new riooOns,
which are honey com Oed aud have the effect
of chenille, which trim with great softness
and beauty, aud not only harmOnize with
the rich stuffs composing the costu mes, oIt
add greatly to the becOmlngness of The bOu.
nets themselves. The new hat has bee the
cause of some cOngratulaJlOn, but still more
weeping and walling among the young
women, for whom 1t is especially inte lded;
for alas! il is crown without a brim aud
requires q dainty, delicate, and nigh br ii
face to do 1t anything like justice. Such
faces are rare, and the blowsy ones
and the frOwsy ones which will insist on
showing themselves beneath this provoking
and cOQueLLish little ecap-''VivaniI-re' as
IL is called-wOuld drive an artist TO distrac
tiOn. As for apples upon bOnnets for a deco
ration, no lady would think of employing
them for such n purpose Once To put apples,
and there is nOthing tO prevent bsets, GU
cumbers, and other articles of culinary use
and interest from following suit Yet little
russet apples and silken pears are to be seen
alongside of humming birds and fern leaves
and ostrich feathers: and, as If the incDn-
gruity were not sufficiently Startling, the
oldest effects OF color will be aided. IL is
hardly Eeedful 10 say that diScrltniu uatiOn
and Judgment are required in the select on
of head x ar; and, indeed, at no time within
recollection has choice IN this reSpecs become
SO nuly indicative OF an uuretine and un-
cultivated or positively vulgar Las Z.
THE NEW THINGS.
The g nuihely new things are always rare,
but there are eternal revivals of stuffs aai
iyies which have hal tnetr day In the past,
aud, being reSusci, ed, must be accepted
As a novelty IN the absence OF the real art.
The eruption of color, the good Contrasts, the
combinations of cOlOrS iust-a of sh AIDES prD-
duce new effects, which differ SO widely
from the neutral tone which Immediately
preceded them as to be somewhat startling.
But the worst of the new things is the at
tempt 10 revive the tawiry tinsel, the child
ish beads aud other elements VIII ich. al the
lest, make but a cheap theatrical display,
then tarDish and become wholly disreputa-
an ii l.
vered imitation of birds wings, bead EN-
broidery, which had little vogue twenty
years ago. before We had lard OF Eastlake
or Industrial and Decorative art, ought to b3
now an impOsslblliGy, and, 1t is To be hoped
Will not ind many admirers among educated
American women. IL is in fact discourage g
TO try 10 make head way against the besOtted
ignO ance that fills the market with a sense
less JargOn OF 1DcOngruOus objects. all speak
ing a different tongue and creating Babel
out OF which utter silence-which is the ab
sence of anything called ornaments a
blessed relief. The only hop, lies in the bet
ter education Of women in their knowledge
of what Is ft and harmonious, AMI their
lection OF what is merely meretr C lous. This
would teach fashiOn-mOngers that some
thing more than change is required to pro-
duce success.
PARIS CLoAKs.
Heavy Antwerp silk seems to have quite
taken the place OF velvet In the composition
OF rlch outdoor garments. A strong effort
has been made this season to reintroduce
velvet In more important capacity, but 1t
seems still to be preferred as a trimming;
while the magnificent solid silks still main
tain their prestige and have the honor of
being sele ted for the more costly garments,
the only y ones, ,indeed-excepting furs-which
are wholly com posed of one fabric The
shapes, whether dOlman, sacque or paletOt,
outline the form, and are cut very long Fur
will be less used this year for trim ming than
last, the new drop trimmings, the ricn
glmps and passementeries having achieved
at once prominence and fashionable distinc-
LION: But there is still great demand for
q n1 1na1 1c nh,
are now not confined to ths circular form,
but are produced in long paetOt and dOlman
stJ les, and are equally suitable for Carriage
wear Less expensive clOaks and walking
jackets are made of fancy diagonal cloths
variOusly trimmed with br q ids, beaded d ASS
menteries and heavy silk, pat on In rackled
bands, or sometimes In sashes, which are
knOtted one above anOth er. and have sewed
instead OF fringed edges. Jackets are much
longer now than form erly, and fit much
more closely to the form. New seal skin
jack are 3S inches in depth, and this may
be taken as an average for the ordinary Eng
lish walking Jackets. Cloak clasps have be-
fur-lined wrap. They are now made very
large, and In quaint, old designs OF Oxydized
metals differ .nt )lOrs, and as they can be
removed from one irme mt to another there
is great pride in having them handsome, the
clasp, in fact, sOmetim es rendering plain
garment distinguished.
ODDS AND ENDS.
The ornamental little handkerchief intro
duced last season have now become an in
siitutiOn. They are mere bits OF sheer
cambria or batIste, scolloped or vandyke
upon the edge and worked In colors. They
are usually pinned in the outside pocket OF
the dress or pOlOnaise, with one corner stick
ing out; the handkerchief for use occupying a
place, as usual, in the inside pocket A
novelty In lingerie has already obtained
great favor with the artistic and literary
class. 1t consists of deep turn dow linen
collars, and cuffs cut close to the wrist and
extending up Oh the arm, TO which they are
shaped. They are considered particularly
stylish for morning or indoor wear with
dresses OF black or invisible green CASH
mere, which of course must have sleeves cut
close to the wrist, barely leaving room for
the hand to pass through. The handsomest
OF these sets have an edging of fine embrOd-
ery and are fastened with pearl buttons.
The newest ''dog collars" consist of black
race ruched thickly on strip OF black silk
or riohon, aud tied close to the throat under
the chin with narrow ri iobon. A ribbon
doubled, sewed together, and the lace mount-
ed upon IL In full shells or cascades, m AXE a
thicker ruche, which Is very becomins
These are worn exclusively in the street. and
are the best recipe in the world for neuralgia
The cOlOred embroideries promise To bs a
great rage. The favOrite combinations are
dark olive and moss shades of gree 4 COM