, 1877-04-15

TIE RAGE OF THE MANDARIN.
Special Correspondence Qf The Tribune.
PARIS, March 31.-As the season advances, Fash
ion becomes more pcrcmptory in debating styles,
which will ut least favor African conceptions Of
beauty; but, as duty compcls me to register yaria-
tions OF the modes rather than to criticisc them
will merely state that at many OF the openings
which took place last week, glaring mandarin was
more conspicuous than any other hue. This color
is even more profusely used than the cardinal red
Of last scason, and, although the latter is again
striving for supremacy under new nomenclature.
II Is fast declining before the more obtrn-
siye yellow. Not only arc Trimmings and
small appendagcs OF the toilet displayed in
mandarin, bnt robes which will render tho
wearczs liable to be mistaken at a distance for
charettes filled with oranges nre much admired by
the masses. These are designed by costumcrs,
who wish toattract the attention Of those transient
visitors of the great metropolis, who 50 surging
through the immense stores at this season in search
OF novelties and who imagine tnc most bizarre styles
must truly be a 10 mode. Summer toilets will
therefore be divided in two very distinct classes,
as the great " Weber would have styled. ''in con-
cords and discords'' Even the most trivial affairs
in life Thus presented to his mind, anu 1t is
related that un one occasion the beauty OF hou-
quct was rendered most offensive by having it Of
fcred TO- him in q gorgeous but c0arscty. painted
vase "A single chud In its native purity would
have pleased 1ne WE'LL he said. '' hut the discord
They require vase Of Scyrcs, and that which now
contains them suggests bunch Of htdcous tnscl OF
blue artificial roses weeping with mock dcwd1ops
OF huge glass bcads'' At the less conspicuous but
more recherche openings, yellow tiuts are very
delicately used, and centrally for trimming. Thus
robe Of black satin and white French muslin has
mandarin ribbon subdued by being placed under
nounces oil the muslin which altcrnates with others
OF Mnlines lace and few 1ouis XIV, cluster bows,
triangular shells Of ribbon similar to those worn
IN the seventeenth century These are also worn
In the hair with cordons Of nastprtiuns. The COM
hInations OF - -:
are among the newest arrangelnenta and form
toilets known rs chauve-suurs, on account OF
uniting twu materials entirely opposite to each
other, the Chauyc sousis or bat unltes two dit
fercnt natures. These toilets can be formed OF
white muslin or other thin material ana satin IN
all colors, although the tint known as chcseux de
Ia reinc Is now in the asceudancy. The satin de-
notes that winter has mot yet abdicated- and the
white muslin represents summer, which is approach
Ing. The 1nittens to which l recently alluded
have made their appearance in even greater variety
style are of >, ,.undrcsscd :: hid, and come in
pcarl-sr hesh-color, nuance suede, steel,
and black. Tho mitaines .du Barry arc Of
black silk velvet embroidered In brilliant coors,
and equal in length, six button gloves; they cost
20 francs pair. The silk mitaines DirectoiEe are
Oriental style; but the gauntlet 1ntten which &C
companies the tight sleeve Of toilette de course il
the most beautiful Of the apparent endlessyartcty
Mi.tens are now triumphant and viii remain 50
., Hats for fetes champetres are already looming
are OF extremely Hne Leghorn, dropping low In
front, and arc ca1ledthc Reveille. They are tn
yariably trimmed with scarfs generally Of tissue,
with which natural flowers are 10 be