Middletown transcript., 1877-01-13
Our New York Fashion Letter.
BY MRS. GRUNDY.
WINTER HATS.

fashions are supposed to be the highest
touch of art, and no one disputes the
fact that they always are an improve
ment on the first crude Fall styles 80
But this year there is less difference to
be seen than is usually the case Econ
omy is the favorite topic among feminine
New Workers, but it is difficult to see
in what they have carried out their
good ideas. Perhaps millinery shows
it somewhat-bOnnets being palmer
than the first fall openings indicated.
The "show hats" were then piled up
with several stories of loops, flowers and
feathers, while now we see a great
number of simpler and to US more artis-
tic bonnets, depending on their rich
material and stylish makeup rather than
on quantity of trimming Plain bands
of silk velvet, with few loops and
steel pin or buckle can be arranged on
a pretty felt in such way as to make
a charming effect Of course, feathers
improve, but they are not absolutely
necessary as our milliners would fain
make US believe. The Cavalier" and
STANLEY" are the favorite shapes in
hats. The former has wide brim and
high crown, making q long plume almost
indispensable, the latter has the brim
very drooping almost fitting the fore
head. Then there are intermediate
shapes of various styles, the English
walking hat, always standard, and
others more fantastic. Some Of these
are turned up at the side and worn far
back on the head, some even turned
up at the side of the back while broad
brim reaches out in front. But this
brigandish fashion is almost entirely
mOnopolized by our gay young friends
of the white walls. black court plaster
and choked up necks. Gray felt is the
favorite material. Bonnets have not
changed very much except to be little
closer fitting in the back and higher in
front.
CoLoRs AGAIN.
IN dress the most convenient as we'll
as the most stylish suit for general
street wear is Of brown came's hair
cashmere serge or basket clothes. This
is usually made up in very long and
full overskirt and stylish jacket, both
trimmed with tassel fringe and worn
over brown or black silk skirt Obscure
stripes are still worn but plain and
damassie goods are better. There is
greater inclination toward colors, both
in house and street costumes. The
good taste of American ladies always
prompts them to make black the stand
ard dress for street wear, and even now
four-6fths of the shoppers are SO attired.
But for calling, visiting and carriage
wear the dark shades Of green, plum,
blue and maroon are much worn In
party dresses gay contrasts are pro-
ducsd, even blue silk and green are
piped with cardinal, and blue and green
put together.
TRIMMINGS.
To return to woolen goods, the dark
gray and black mixed wool material
made up with black silk, is very stylish.
Polonaises of this material are pretty
draped low in the back, trimmed simply
with cords and bows of black silk, and
worn over one of those made-over black
silk skirts that form SO important part
of almost every lady's wardrobe. Over
skirts are longer than ever, if possible,
the length before looping often exceed.
ing that of the underskirt. As a result
the underskirts are not trimmed very
much, one ruf1e alone generally being
used. Sometimes the skirt is perfectly
plain if of rich material The fringe of
the overskirt shows very handsomely
over this skirt And this fringe seems
to be almost indispensable Prstty
wooden tassel fringe can be bought for
from thirty to seventy-fve cents yard
Ball fringe is somewhat used, but it has
a netted heading. Black fringe silk
comes in hundred styles, very deep
netted heading being most expensive
and most elegant The handsomest has
heading Of half yard, each square Of
netting ornamented with a small ball
About a yard of this trims the whole
front Of dress, being headed Of course
BY wide fold Of velvet or silk.
OLD AND NEW.
The Princes" seems to be about
the most novel thing in the cut Of
dresses. 1t often has sort of riding
habit look, and is trimmed up the front
with passementerie Some ladies of
majestic figure affect military style in
this dress, small high breast pockets,
and real military braid trimmings =
These braids are to be used very much, j,
gold, silver and steel and cut out pat
terms initiating embroidery. Platings
and fittings seem to be impsrishable.-
The plain cuirass is still the waist for
all dresses except the polonaise and
princess. 1t is sometimes pointed now