The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1877-09-20
New York Fashions-Fall Styles.

The same idea of combination which in
f1uences rich fabrics this season is found
in simpler materials, those of all wool
being shown with mixed hues; line of
white shot in grays, browns, and invisible
greens; gray damasse patterns on dull
grounds, with here land there line of
cardinal or the favorite mulberry color.
These vary in price, according to texture
and width, from 81 70 80, and will be used
for costumes with or without silk OF the
predominant color. The heavy water.
proof woods will be used by ladies who
wish costumes at once durable, simple and
refined. These are shown in great varie.
darkest grays, browns and blues, with an
the effect. These in double width arc
shown at 50, the plaid being in light
hue, the groundwork very dark. Blue
is shown at $3.50 yard, and will also be
shades begin at fifty cents.
Polonaises, draped slightly, will be
much worn for ordinary occasions. The
Princesse form, buttoned down the front,
and draped from six to ten inches below
the back, and slightly at one side, finished
with q fiat bow of ribbon, is serviceable
and stylish design, the edge of the gar
ment being finished with five rows of
stitching or a-dark close galloon. These
will be used in the wool materials over
silk skirts trimmed with deep side pleat-
ing, each pleat being at least two inches
wide, or two knife pleated fiounces. If q
wool skirt is preferred, the same style may
be employed. Should the polonaise be
trimmed with silk, the under skirt fiounces
may have bands of silk laid on the edge,
or the silk founces may be bound with
wool, and should then be cut out in points
or scallops and laid on scantily. For or
binary usage pretty wool polonaise has
the Princesse form, with close pleating
set in eight inches from the belt at the
back; q row of buttons extending down
the middle pleat; large pockets are put on
the sides; pleated piece laid a III Pompa-
dour in the waist, with side pieces button
ing across below the bust. Trimming
may be put down the side seams if de.
sired. Jackets are sometimes outlined
in trimming on the polonaises and
should have the points long, the
sides sloping up to the belt, where flap
in position or straight jacket fashion is
set in. Others have the trimming straight
around, diagonal drapery at the back
being below the simulated jacket. A
polonaise of dull gray cloth was bu toned
down the waist to the belt, the front
breadths being opened straight at the left
side, and finished with small ribbon bows.
In the back, drapery was arranged at the
right side, row of bows being set in to
correspond. If jackets and round over.
skirts are preferred to polonaises, the
cuirass form, cut long, should be used for
the jacket of the Louis Quinze, with
straps of wool or silk crossing the front,
or the vest simply buttoned. Such cos
tune, made up in silk and wool, had the
Louis Quinze jacket very long, with the
straps of silk bound in wool, three straps
being put On each side of the middle
seam in the back short distance below
the belt. Tho back was cut with the side
pieces long, the middle piece half the
length, and trimmed with the three straps
laid across, every strap having a finish of
dark pearl buttons. The sleeves had sim.
Aar straps put on above wide pleatinp
Of silk and wool. The ovcr-skirt was
long, and draped closely at the left side
Df the back. row of straps extending
thence to the edge of the over-skirt. The
under. skirt was Of silk, with two pleatings
Of wool and silk headed by bias bands.
Another costume had the front bresdths
Df the over-skirt cut down in three pieces.
eacn bound with silk on one side. and
aid over each other, finished with fat
pearl buttons. The back was draped low
Town.
Felt bonnets are not seen among the |
EARLIEST importatiOns for autumn. Vari-
'us materials are employed for the cover
ng Of etframes. The shapes for |
AL and early winter retain the favorable |
:hAracteristics Of last season, with vel |
.ome Improvements. Prominent among |
he new shapes is one suggested by the |
popular capOte Of last season, the crown |
icing more precisely round, the brfm |
leeper and better shaped. This fits the |
lead closely ct the side, and can have face |
trimming or mot, according TO Individual |
ancy. A second style has round crown,
With bFim sllRhtly beat q q Xafi6 Stuart |
Another style has 8 diedom front piece |
Ibove . curved band, where the flowers |
Y face trimmiugz may DO set IN. The !
modified cottage shape will also be worn,
md Il particularly youthful and pretty. |
u general effect Tie bonncts are ANAL and |
Iainty n design, while their trimmings
lre ontlrcly novel,
Ths fnl<ies y ~ ussd 5or the coverinr |
= WoIl q 1Simmfpk Of I'LL bonnets, and |
leoha13f 1koG6 Wugn late into he eeeeon.
Is sjlk, plush, nnfin. md, for ordinsrv
ye1f. wool material like The costume. Tia
,ologp nro various, plush Of slolicate hue |
Ieip9 nkpWn IA dre6s hats With sotfn trim. !
ninEe, o. ejoe eores:: dark. rich safins. tha |
IN tlnts u old gold, mulberry and garnet.