The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1877-03-26
The 0racleS WHO Rule the Capital Of
the Fashionable World.
A Peep into Some of the Sanctuaries
of the Law Givers.
HOW TO FIT AND WHAT'S BEFlTTING.

PARIS, March o. 1877.
"Lhistoire Sc repsie" is an old French saying, Of
which tho very liberal translation is that there Is
| nothing under the sun. few novelties have,
however turned In the course OF the present cen
| fury, and among these stands foremost the "?aris
man-miner" This curiosity OF the ago We live In
first appeared twenty five years ago He emerged
from behind counter the Rue de Richelieu, and,
in spite OF tho vicsstudes Of tho nation to which he
owes his fame--in spite of war; SIEGE invasion and
hard tines the TALL OF the Empire and OF those whose
patronage gave him prestge-the ladies' couturier
still nourishes and his present achievements eclipse
| those OF his palmest days
The PARIS -milliner is often alluded to as II
the comprehended whole legion Of profession
ais but in reality there only two In the business
and OF these onlytho originator of the species
possesses the faculties and gifts requisite for deli
cate mission The name OF this man IS
Worth, and that OF his emulator but in way his
equal, is Pingat. Their satel es and women
OF great talent In their !ne-desisners coloriss, IT.
tersall content to supply and execute with rare ability
the ideas given thom These iorm u notable phaanx
in the army Of the commandments, but however
competent and consulted not among them would
dare tho responsibility OF launching forth their
own inventions before maser.cye has glanced
couragement approval From what has been hero
said tho reader will already conclude that such gov
eminent and such rule as this must be based ON
something less transient than nero vogue. In truth
1t ~ Notwithstanding the triviaty of Ia mode
there q power In the BRAN OF her ruler, and this
power is taste, tact and will combined.
A PARTISAN cELEnRITy DESCRIBED.
A pen-and-ink sketch OF N. Worth, in what may
call ..his different moods" will convey impartial
notion OF this Partisan celebrity. The accessible mood,
the inventive mood aud the obstinate mood arc cor
ainly the chief of this versatile genius.
Al
sons take the trouble call at hts house of business
for the purpose OF seeing him and provided with
kind Of introduction or reasonable motive he
is correctly polite aud aflablc. Tho visitor whocvor
he be- IL greeted with the impassve countenance OF
OF tho world long accustomed to feminine diplo-
macy and the stranger may feel assured that whatever
he may say propose he Will obtain neither yea nor
nay until the piercing graybue eye has detected sim
certy the speech and manner of the person he ad
dresses. NJ. Worth somewhat beyond tho middle
height With faultess precision, his hair.
which is thinning, la Capou, is always at ease and
his bow to a duke ambassador is the his
bow to a solicitor whose request cannot be granted
His answers. short and his talk by no means
suggestive. Putting all things together. II N.
Worth is sometimes sorcly tried by the i'm
Fortunate he never shows temper
fuses admittance to his rooms unto authorized
Of notable rms journalists of repute
and even cri!icl 1t is that he does not at
tend TO his customers. He takes no orders or meas
urcs but he advises, and inspccts number
o. young employees dressed tho style OF the day do
the business, apparently; but as purchasers go to NJ.
worth's establishment for toilet leaves it.
without having viewed by the master, no order
escapes without supervision Ii lady desires that he
should see her toilet ..tricd on the 'saiic des
i,taie1es gas lighted in full daylight and he looks
over the process OF fitting, which Is however, per-
formed by women.
1t generally sallices that the models for a
be his that he should have cree them the term
goes. Those who know magician and transformer
OF figures are that he truly enjoyable when
the act of inventipg. Hc shakes Off the gentleman
rider and cabinet MISTER style ior quiet consdera-
lion OF his lay figure. Mere chance sometimes throws
incompatibtcs OF color and tissue across his path
II so he combines them according to tho sug-
gestion OF the moment. There Is not
thread woven Of which he cannot
make an appropriate oddly; but generally the inlri-
cacles of drapery the result OF much iorehought
and study. No material Is too costly Tor the rough
OF a idea Yards and yards OF valuable Indian
TISSUES the best Lyons fabrics. OF lace embroidery
aud gauzes wasted with prodlgal hand. AT other
times piece OF muslin Is sufficient Like all
superior artists Tor NJ Worth is ARTIST he consuIts
the few lookers.on he may not mind calling in when
tue effect desired Is Obtained; he does not dsdain II
frank open opinion; but Tor all that never alters
Tor the sake OF acquiescDg with notion not his
Thus 1t Is he has long preserved his originality.
The facility with which he yields, when convinced,
can only be compared to the obstinasy with which he
maintains his The words mo, no. really
not" may always be interpreted 81 VIII moi"
1t Is well known in the trade that II a
dealer insist pushing material through
Worth's influence should the latter once shake his
head pressing useless. Any disregard OF first
Worth justly sensitive is undue pfyiDg into his pri
vale nic lie has palatal residence stables and
household Sarcsnes who has shared the abors
OF the firm since lett tho military service; "a we
who English woman, and well Kept servants; he
gives occasional receptions and dinner parties is fond
art WRITER'S actors and men oil W.T., ana resents the
wholesale made OF his name. The world need know
no more. "As you are capital fellow, he once said
lady who writes on the fashions 81 will show aud
tell you everything, but please don't put me In PRINT
Tor having boon friendly to YOU should have twelve
fair enemies in the press tomorrow" A great deal
has been said about tho exorbitant price Of
NJ. worth's loilettes. No one Is Obliged TO be
dressed by NJ Worth. Another plant Is that
he VIII not have anything TO do with duchesses
and countesses II not treated by them as II
seen the ..man- mhncr" attend TO the Duchess
de Metternich, the Queen OF Spain and other crowned
/ heads with all the difference oil gentleman, aud Ger
talnly had u right to DC treated as such by them.
! third complaint Is that the interior Of NJ. Worth's
salons animated and theatrical AS scene AZ
the Theatre Francais but all salons IN society are
more less stages, aud tho only difference between
those OF the gands monde and Worths that in til
former his customers and not bia employees are the
actresses An atmosphere Of bon pervados the
place which certainly very attractive TO the refined
ANOTHER ORACLE or FASHION
| should be happy TO state that this likewise the
case at NJ Emile Pingats institution, but the reccp
ton there given To the writer did not admit OF rs iavor
able impression. Being DESTROYS to give HIM u
good word Tor tue intelligence and enterprise with
which he has kept up his fame in spite OF competition,
| called, aking due announcement OF my journalistic
credentials and purposes, and concluded these formal
tiles bv standing face 10 lace with tins Emile Of school
not ioresccn Jean-Jacques. VI. PingaL cutting
out an open sleeve Of stn gauze for Mle Hcbronn Of
the opera-at least he SAID So / requested the favor
OF view of his spring novelties although having seen
and had surieit OF the styles elsewhere. had
asccndcd ". Pingats floors Tor fresh view OF himself
He mas not grown and his smile has not soured but
his hair rs pepper and salt aud his not vi
the pure Paris dialect "What good can your view Of
! my novelties do meY" was the matter-of tact answer
TO my request
at can do you no harm TO have them reviewed In a
| FIRST class New YORK journal"
~ beyond that: haye no need Of the mn blcity