The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-10-03
lFrom HarDer's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Opening day at the leading fashionable mil
linery houses gives further suggestions of fall
styles, and confirms those already announced.
The majority of the new bonnets are small cot
tage shapes and close-ftting capotes, but there
are many large Marie Stuart bonnets, with
pointed front and flowing plume, and there are
also the dressy Bergese hats, with little crown
and spreading brims-gay and dressy shapes
for young folks. The hair is dressed yery soft.
ly and with reference to the shape of the hat.
For the crownless floral bonnets, or those with
feather fronts to be worn on dressy occasions.
the coiffure is high soft loops and puffs on top
of the head. For the close shapes the back
hair is arranged in fiat chatelaine loop very
low on the nape of theIneck, or else the chate-
lsine is braided in wide basket braids.of seven
strands or.more.
The materials for. .thesnew bonnetsl,are plush
or velvet trimmed with, satin. The plush NAV
be plain or striped. Some brocaded silks in
Marguerite pattern are used for crowns of spe.
cial bonnets. There are also some kid bounets
like those introduced last year, and there are
very fine felt bonnets with plain cut edges
while others are wrought with jet or with clair
de Enne beads. Gros grain is still used for
many pipings and facings, though the more
lustrous satin has the preference The frame
of the bonnet is plainly, covered with any of the
fabrics with long pile; the plush can not look
too heavy or too much like fur, and the velvets
are of the richest quality. There are few pip
ings and cords on the edges, the materials Of
the inner and outsides being sewed or folded
plainly. The satin trimmings are clusters of
bias folds massed around the crown, or perhaps
only on one side and across the top. Nothing
is stiff and regular. In many cases the crown
is not surrounded with trimming, but is left
bare on each side, bow and ends below, aud
plume across the top. Face trimmings are of
dark velvet in most bonnets, no matter how
light the outside is; few tule ruches are
shown inside bonnets, but oftener there is a
single piping fold of velvet, or twist, an Alsa-
clan bow, or an irregular puff; it is an excep-
ton to the rule to see flowers inside the bri1n,
though there are wreaths, branches, clusters,
and bouquets outside. Ribbons are satin on
one side, gros grain on the other; there are
also plush ribbons and others richly brocaded
with gold or silver threads outlining the figure,
Two colors appear in most bonnets, one very
dark, the other quite light. but there are also
monotone bonnets, showing three or four
shades of one color. The clair de luIe, or MOON
light gray, is not confined to beads, bat is a
beautiful shade found in all the new materials
OF plush, satin, and ribbons. All-black hats
are still shown, and are always stylish The
most dressy materials for these will be black
plush trim med with black satin.
The feathers and flowers surpass those of any
former season. The bird-of-paradise, with its
golden plumage, is the choice for expensive
bonnets. There are, however, the pretty her.
ons feathers, wings, guinea-hens breasts, pea
cocks breasts, and many other stiff and slen-
der feathers for less costly hats. Ostrich tips
and the long Marie Stuart plumes are used in
Drofusion. Among flowers the rose is still the
favorite, with velvet or silk petals, and the
mOssy leaves of chenille. The fruit clusters
are used very carefully by the leading modistes.
Very small crab apples, or seckel pears, or
greengage plums seem most in favor; straw
berries, apricots, grapes, and cherries are occa-
slonally used, but the extravagances in such
ornaments are not found at the best houses
Felt is especially liked for round hats, it,
only rival ibeing velvet Helmet-shaped hats,
like those worn by gentlemen during the sum-
mer, are offered for young ladies'. Their only
trimming is wide galloOn band and a slender
wing, Another .jaunty shape comes far down
over the brow, with square visor-shaped front
Whiie the back and sides are rolled closely
against the crown; this is the Jockey hat, and
is most suitable for young girls in their teens;
the feathers, which are two short ostrich
plumes, are set on the back Of the crown, and
made to curl down on the 'front.' The Princess
Louise hat is revised English walking hat,
with both sides rolled closely against the crown
and square dropping front and back This lis
handsome made of felt with velvet brim, jap
anese ornaments, and game feathers, breasts,
or wings. The Gainsborough shape remains.
but not so large as the conspicuous hats worn
during the summer in the country. Felt of
gray shades, with the brim covered with clair
de lune gallool, band of the same, and sill
vered wing, makes a stylish Gainsborough hat.
Flowers are not used on round hats for city
streets; they are confined to shade hats for the
country.
Long slender sacques will again be favorite
wraps for fall and winter. Those for general
use are of medium length, made of the new
rough cloths. double-breasted, buttoned their
entire length and with coat flaps behind These
are also shown in smooth cloths of various light
gray shades, and moreover of clear blue and
scarlet. For the latter the trimming is rows of
applique embroidery in shaded colors. More
dressy sacque eloaks are long enough to envelop
the whole figure, which they fit closely, and
have side draperies in the way of capes or flow
ing sleevs.
New ornamental bows flor the throat are of
ribbons Of two contrasting colors tying small
cluster of flowers on shells of Valenciennes
lace. Vulcan red ribbon contrasting with pale
blue or with mandarin yellow make pretty
bows.
Broad collars of pale blue, rose, or cream
colored foulard are made to wear with dark
dresses. The wide Anne of Austria cuffs COW
ering the sleeves are of the same foulard. These
make a handsome facing for duchesse and 9TH
er point lace, though the colored collars and
cuffs are also worn.