The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1877-01-27
Our 0liu.


seige Of city, holding careful cores
pondence with the secretary, Colbert, con-
cerning the purchase of some points from
Flan lers, Venice and Genoa. He advises
Colbert to advance thirty or forty thousand
liVres for the laces, adding that by making
the purchase in time he viii derive great
advantage in the price, but as he hopes
the siege will soon be at an end, they may
await his arrival at Paris for his final de.
cision. 1t seems, however, from Colberts
answer to Mazarin that these laces we're
destined as patterns for the improvement
Of the French manufactures; for in the in.
vcntory of Mazarin' s effects after his death
there is no mention Of Italian points or
lace coyerlets, "deRteLies d ort au d argent."
There is no doubt that the minister and
his secretary were then meditating the es.
tablishment of those points de France that
Colbert instituted so successfully in 1865
at d Alencon. The history of the estab.
lishment of this manufacture is interesting
in itself, and may afford lesson for our
republic that could be taken advantage of
in shorter time than might be deemed
possible by some. In 1860 the French
government issued sumptuary ordinance
prohibiting the use of all foreign "passe.
mem" points de Genes, points coupes, and
any French laces and passements exceed
ing an inch in width. The ordinance then
goes on to condemn the canons which, it
states, have been introduced into the king.
dom with an excessive and insupportable
expense by the quantity Of points of We
nice and Genoa with which they are load
ed. The use of these canons was entirely,
prohibited, unless they were made of plain
linen or the same stuff as the coat, without
lace or any ornament. The lace.trimmea
"canons' of Louis XIV, as represented
in his interview with Philip w., in the
Isle Of Pheasants, previous to his marriage
in 1860, give good idea of these extray-
antappendages. The ordinance of 1860
had but little effect, for various Others
were issued in the following year, with
the oft-repeated prohibitions of the points
of Genoa and Venice; but edicts were of
no avail. No royal command could com.
pei people to substitute the coarse, inferior
laces Of France for the fine artistic pro-
ductions of her sister countries. Colbert,
therefore, determined to develop the lace
manufacture in France, and produce fab
rics that should rival the coveted points
of Italy and Flanders, so that if money
was lavished upon those luxuries, it should
not be sent out of the country.
In 1865, at the recommendation of the
Sieur Raoul, he selected Madame Gilbert,
a lady Of Alencon, who was acquainted
with the manner of making Venice point,
and giving her an advance of fifty thou.
sand crowns, established her at his own
chateau, Lonray, near Alencon, with thirty
expert lace-workers whom he had at great
expense caused to be brought over from
Venice. In short time Madame Gilbert
arrived in Paris with the first specimens
of the fabric produced by herself and her
workers. The King, inspired by Colbert
with desire to see the work, during
supper at Versailles announced to his oour
tiers that he had just established manu-
factory of point more beautiful than the
finest of Venice, and appointed day for
an inspection of the specimens.
On the day appointed the King and his
courtiers came to Colbert's house in Paris,
Madame Gilbert, instructed by Colbert,
had arranged the laces, the beautiful points
d dAtencon, in the most artistic manner on
the walls of room hung with crimson
damask, where they showed to the best
advantage. When the King and the no.
bles entered the room, they were perfectly
delighted. The Grand Monarque ordered
a large sum of money to be given to the
happy Madame Gilbert, and turning to his
courtiers, said:
Gentlemen, hope l will see no other
lace worn at my court than this new fab.
ric, upon which bestow the name Point
de France"
Scarcely had Louis retired, when the
courtiers rushed back, and, at exorbitant
prices, paid to Madame Gilbert, stripped
the room of its contents. The approval
of the monarch was the fortune of Allen.
con. Point de France, adopted BY court
etiquette, soon became as fashionable as il
was compulsory All who had the priyi-
lege Of the "casague bleu," all who were
received at Versailles or we're attached to
the royal household, could only appear,
the ladies in trimmings and head dresses,
the gentlemen in rufiles and crayats, of
the royal manufacture.
An ordinance Of August 5, 1865, found
ed upon large scale the manufacture of
points de France, with the exclusive priv
ilege for ten years, and grant of thirty
six thousand francs. A company was
formed, its members rapidly increased and
in 1868 the capital amounted to twenty
two thousand livres. Eight direcrors were
at salaries of twelve thousand
livres year, to conduct the manufacture,
and the company held its sittings in the
Hotel de Beaufort, at Paris. The first
distribution Of profits took place in Octo.
Der, in 1868, amounting to the enormous
profit of fifty per cent. upon each share.
In 1870 second distribution was made.
and one hundred and twenty thousand
livres were distributed among the share.
holders. The distribution Of 1873 was
still more considerable. In 1875 the ten
years privilege ceased. The money was
returned, and the remainder of the profits
divided.
Colbert likewise set up fabric at the
Chateau de Madrid, built by Francis l.,
in the Bois dc Boulogne. Such was the
origin of point lace in France. Colbert's
plan was crowned with success. He cs-
tablished lucrative mandatory that
brought large sums Of money into the king
dom, instead of sending it out. Well
might he say that Fashion was to France
what the mines Of Peru were to Spain"
From the fourteenth to the eighteenth
century the art of lace.making continued
to increase and spread in all the countries
of Europe. Itwould be impossible to emu.
merate all the different points that are
spoken Of in.the histories Of lace that have
from time to time been written, or that
occur in the inventories and wardrobe ac-
counts of kings and queens, priests and
prelates, in those Eve centuries. Every
country of Eurona-na., o,,o.,. .oo.. =