, 1877-05-25

cores, knife-pleatings, pockets, collars,
and sash ends of ashes-of-roses gros
grain. The drapery is unequal, being
massed in horizontal pleats on one side,
while the opposite gore is of plain silk,
on which square bows of silk are laid.
The foot of the dress is cut out in
squares. and silk knife-pleatings border
the skirt. The inevitable pearl buttons
appear on all such dresses. These beau
tiful dresses will be copied by thrifty
ladies who wish to modernize partly
worn dresses, as one good dress may be
made of two old ones, or the best parts
of half-worn silk dress may be COM
bined with one of the new woolen stuffs
described below.
For evening dresses the princesse
style prevails, and for these gay dresses
IS laced in the back, has a square neck
and a Medicis collar, and a separate
square train without particle Of dra-
perry, aud suggesting regular court
train. The richest dresses of this kind
have some of the cores of light gros
grain and other cores of the new chen
lille gauze of gay colors. For instance,
a sky blue gros grain princesse dress
laced behind will have the front side
gores--which begin now on the should
er and extend to the foot-made of che
mile gauze in which appear Holbein
green, sky blue, tilleul and rose-colored
dashes, and the trimming around the
bottom will be, not fiounces, but a
broad ruche made up of many pinked
silk ruffles of each of the colors in the
gauze. The back, with square train and
no drapery, has also a gauze gore on
each side from neck to foot. The neck
has Medicis DOLLAR in the back, with
wire to hold it in shape, while the front
is a low square, trimmed with ruches of
silk of the four colors and white lace.
The plainness of this dress is its great
beauty. Tt is intended for graceful
figure that can dispense with the adven-
titious aids of scarfs, drapery, and fancy
pockets. The sleeves are long tight
coat sleeves, with gauze cuffs.
The new mandarin yellow and tilleul
shades are seen in some of the richest
evening dresses. There are gauze
dresses with cross stripes of mandarin
and cream-color, made over trained
skirts of cream-colored silk that are fin
ished around the bottom with a wide
box-pleated ruche of silk pinked on the
edges. The basque is round, with a
broad Josephine belt made of seven
folds of silk, showing both deep manda-
rim and pale cream tints. The long
round over-skirt is trimmed with fringe,
and there is a row of diagonal folds of
silk on the apron to match the front of the
basque. which is fastened on the left
side. The drapery behind forms one
long soft narrow puff, held in place by
folds and knots of the silk, beginning
at the waist and extending to the end.
While regular sashes are not worn,
there are many arrangements of these
lengthwise silk folds, knots, and loops
for holding up the skirts of over
dresses.
A novel idea is that of introducing
Algerienne wool and Knickerbocker
stuffs for the over dresses of full-dress
toilets. These goods now come in such
delicate grounds of tilleul, cream, and
pale blue, with dashes or stripes OF gay
Oriental colors, that they are as ex-
pensive as brocades and velvets, and
they fall naturally into the soft draper.
les now so much liked. A polonaise of
wool with tillezl ground has raised
threads in lines of Holbein green, blue,
and Vesuve red, trimmed with tassels.
each one Of which is sewed on separate,
ly to form fringe. Such garments are
made with open square necks, Martha
Washington sleeves, and sash folds Of
tilleul and cream gros grain; the lower
skirt is of tilleul silk, or else of deeper
olive or Holbein green.
For midsummer parties are elaborate
toilets of the palest blue oor cream or
CANDY muslin, worn over silk skirts
founced with the organdy. The over
dresses are polonaises trimmed with
white Fayeux embroidery and knife
pleating of the lawn, edged with Valen-
ciennes lace.-Bdzm.