The Portland daily press., 1877-07-12
THURSDAY MORNING, JULY 12.
Correspondence Of Harper's Bazaar.
New York Fashions.

Rlack silk costumes are being made M in
Breton styles. Some are in conjunction with
Dlack velvet, having the vest of velvet, also col
lar, cults and rows of bias bands for trimming.
Others have black galloons for Gborders, while
very snowy suits have brocaded vests and wide
India galloon ION the basque land oyer-skirt.
Notwithstanding the introduction of
novel designs, the long, round overskirt re-
mains the most popular for simple black dresses
either of silk, cashmere or grenadine. To give
1t variety, however, it is now slit open up the
middle OF the front breadth for a length of
three-eighths of a yard, trimmed up the sides
OF this opening, and long-looped bow of rib
Don is set on at the top of the opening. The
trimming, of knife-pleated silk, fringe or lace
extends up the opening. Five widths of silk
are used for this over-skirt, viz, the front
breadth, gore on each side, and two straight
breadths behind. The drapery folds are very
ow down, and the silk is so little cut that it
will be an easy matter to alter it when the
shape loses favor.
Black silks are very cheap at present. This
is probably owing to the fact that so few COS
tunes entirely of plain gros grain are being
made. now that damask silks and grenadines are
SO largely used in combination suits Many
ladies of experience are buying the low-priced
silks for lower skirts. Thus ten yards of silk at
$l.Z5 or Sl50 make very reasonable skirt
To trim such silks the most tasteful plan is to
have them alike all around. A knife. pleating
hve inches deep, is very neat and stylish. The
most fashionable dress Makers especially the
French modstes. now use the sewlDg-machne
for stitching up the hens that edge these
pleatings.
Tha
CANDY muslin are now made in toque shape,
with the brim rounding down on the eyes, and
the back quite short or else turned up. The
brim is faced with red, blue or pink silk. and
IS gauged on cords or wires; two or three
The crown is soft and full, and is mace of the
transparent organdy without lining. just in
front is thick cluster of loops of silk like the
lining, and wreath of foliage, or of moss-rose
bdds, or perhaps natural grasses, trims the
crown. A twist and loops of black velvet fill
up the back.
Many young ladies provide themselves with a
variety of round hats for the summer, and do
not take bonnets to the country. Large rustic
straw garden hats are shown in exaggerated
toque shapes, trimmed with wreaths of rubber
grasses tied with loops of ivory white ribbon
that are edged with silver braids Others
have punches Uf field flowers tied in knots of
blue grenadine scarfs. Those dressy hats of
white chip have the brim faced with black vel
vet, and slightly rolled on one side. A scarf of
yellow crinkled Grape is around the crown, held
in place by black and yellow flowers. A brown
rustic straw hat has an armure gauze scarf of
brown caught up with cherished, black and
white. The novelty for grenadine wells, es-
pecially scarf wells, is buttercup yellow grena-
dine with tape border on each edge. These
are carelessly folded around the crown of
the hat and then wound around the neck The
cheap flats that are covered with muslin or
tarlatan ruches are very pretty when the white
tarlatan is puffed all over the hat and studded
with daisies, or else with small bows of black
velvet ribbon. Others have bouquets of scarlet
popples and of field flowers in the centre, with
loops and ends of black velvet ribbon extending
from thence to the edge of the brim. Very
dressy scarf wells are of black thread net, edged
with two or three stitchings of floss. or with
very narrow thread lace; others have gilt dots
ana git fringe. White arabesque gauze is also
used for bonnet strings and for scarf wells.
Mixed ecru and brown, rough straws in
plaids or bars are stylish for travelling bonnets;
they are trimmed with brown, blue or green
velvet folds, cluster OF game feathers in
otlve shades, and large smoked-pearl buckle.
BronZe-colored and olive-tnted chips are chosen
TO match handsomes travelling costumes;
wreath of mignonette and birds wings of kin.
dred shades trim them tastefully. Other bon
nets OF old gold color have thick loops of satin
ribbon OF the same shade relieved by ipter.
Innings of ponceau or navy blue ribbon
Short round skirts are the rule for the woolen
suits now worn by Partisan ladies. They are
trimmed with border formed of three mar
row pleatlngs Of faille to give substance to the
lower part. The fashion Of wearing the skirt
very short in front and on the sides, with a
narrow train behind, has appeared here.
Moss green trimmed with pink is French
combination for fete dresses. Pale blue trimmed
with ruby is also in favor. Another French
caprice is that of making seaside suits of man
DARN yellow wool, trimmed with cardinal red
Creole caps of gray-striped foulard silks are
worn to breakfast by young married aides,
Iney are trimmed with lace, and sometimes
with small bouqute of flowers.
Fine French cashmere shawls, two yards
square, and fringed are shown in imitation of
the rare Cheddar shawls They come in pale
rose. csel blue and French gray shades They
are very soft and caressante, and will be much
used for extra carriage wraps, and on the piazza
at summer resorts Price S6.
Lace vests are dressy novelty for brighten
ing up dark silks and gauzes Point duchesse,
these. "