The New York herald., 1877-09-10
LIE BON TON.
A Critical Glance at the
Fall Fashions.
FURBELOWS AND FEATHERS.
There is No Lock But a Golden
Key Will Open It."
IL FAUT DE L'ARGENT.

IL 10 most difficult realize that tho cheated term"
has burned itself out. and that the dainty garments Of
muslin cambric and linen that were SO comfortable
and pretty during the summer TO be laid aside,
and those in dark. heavy material brought forward
Spring was lovely with her delicate tns, pale green
on her leaves and flowers just busEng promise OF
stronger hues. which came IN the warm summer days
but the richest OF Natures dyes reserved for
autumn, and Art to be excellcd by her fair sister,
brings forth her royal colorings for the children Of
fashion.
The imported materials OF this season introduce
green and bronze, oak and gold red and brown yellow
and black and all popular coIorA Then there q
great variety of materials in solid colors but almost
all fabrics it is found that the solid grounds
covered with stripes or figures.
AUTUMN MATERIAL
The same dark colors which have prevailed again
presented, and although shades introduced,
these similar character. In texture, also, the
new materials are still SOFT clingng and many oftnem
loosely Damasse fabrics of all kinds silk silk
and WOOL and oil WOOL to say nothing OF cheaper va
rietes, are once more shown, and will DO received
with great favor they have ever been and IL may
be easily predicted that long as they regarded
as fashionable, combination" costumes will retain
PRESTIGE since the union oil plain and figured materials
has been productive Of such excellent effects, they
will be relinqulshed only With reluctance.
"Cameps hair cloths" are again introduced, but are
considerably modified In effect by the greater than
usual thickness Of tho white hair sprnkled over the
surface The texture is son. pllable and delightful
10 the touch as silk floss.
''KMcKERBoCKER CLOTHS"
Drap de ncge drap de Spitsberge and knickorbocker
cloth the clottod and roughaced tissues brought
out some ago. They arc somewhat aner In
eplotched all with knots of camels hair silk
OF self contrasting color and the effect is novel
and pleasing. What names these materials will bear
In tho future cannot be learned this early period
tho season.
Before gong further, It may be we'll to bring into
notice the favor accorded the bronze Shades which
will lead only ordinary dress materials but
Will be fashionaby worn in silks, perhaps, from the
fact that they combine SO effectively with the gold
colors now in vogue. Be that AS II may, the bronze
shades greet everywhere, and few Of the hand
soonest combinations gold and greenish yellow
colors on groundworks Of bronze shades less
deep IN turn
Other styles of dress materials show pushke
intermxtures ana combinations, and here, as else
where, the changes rung upon differences brought
about in skul adaptations of texture, both heavy and
light, and varieties of color. The general of
apparent and meigesse where feecy ntermingngs are
30 prominent 10 cover the material with q snowy
nnsh
Another class OF goods Is woven imitation of
moss and Of color throughout, the threads stand
Ing up in thick loopings; this is called 6ourettc
mousse
All the above goods come in both single and double
width, and range In price from 81 per yard upward
cAsHMEREs.
Cashmeres In all the dark cloth shades introduced
rs largely they have been, aud may be recon.
mended for persons OF quiet tastes ~ho always select
something unobtrusivo. Black cashmere can 10 worn
upon almost every occasion. The "grand opera' is
considered by those of experience of superior
quality and beauty. and recommended by the mer.
chants the best make in this class OF goods There
10 q vast difference in black dress goods Often the
dye rots the fabric, and one of the most provok ng
lhings to woman is after having dress handsomely
made and trimmed to discover 1t dropping to pieces
when but few times worn.
NEW sILKs-A REVIVAL OF OLD CoLoRs
The old "Mara Louise" blue. clear and bright, is
once more in favor A new silk of this shade Is
scarcely than q close netting, but its exquisite
color will render It decided favorite Grisaille silks
are shown IN motted blended and chene varieties.
which may be used alone combined with plain silks.
Handsome silk woven throughout with very rough
together is shown IN dark and pale shades, and also
IN white, and Is called broderio mousse. Armure aud
mosaic silks. shot with coors bouretto style are
palled bourette faconnie and brodere peluche is a
new and STYLE Prices range from So to 81 per
yard.
Even handsome material roughly finished Is
heavy looking and shaggy in appearance, and tonng
down" becomes necessity. Imagine, tor moment,
tho effect OF entire costume composed OF such a
fabric; the picture groesque and therefore 1T seems
TO follow, matter of course, that something must
be introduced to produce a moro soening effect. For
ihs Is that plainly woven goods are essen
IaI component, and In consequence combination cos
lumes are obligatory where bouretto materials are
selected; plain materials are, therefore, brought out
10 match.
RICH WINTER SILKS.
Tho volvet rich and elegant and will, per.
haps be the most conspicuous. The most attractive
patterns upon grounds OF tho heaviest satin and
brocade and damass6 silks are again seeking iavor
Tissu mateassc will at least for period Of
Ux months, and 1t Is limited that floral patterns Will
ceive greater attention by the ladies than Tor two
years past
beautiful fabric called 'salacte, has been intro
duced. is quite thin III texture. but on the SENT
transparent FOUNDATION ngures resembling frost
work in staactte lorm appear IL is brought out IN
white and pale shades; pr'ce 81 per yard. Peluche
grenauine is another anasomo material for evening
wear. This is AN intcrlnixture OF plush on semi
transparent surface These novelties are very striking
IN character
FASHIONABLE CoLORS.
Color claims place oil quiie as decided Importance
In dress in art, and mucn attention paid TO this
Just now Not only will the bronze c0lors be promi-
ncnt, but all tho dierent shadipgs OF brownish yell
lows greenish yellows, yellowish green's 10 say
nothing OF tho pure yellows, both light and dark. All
the mosscs, ferns aud other vegetable ns arc prom.
sed out OF the abundance of this greenery both
blonde and brunette must be suited.
There must however, be variety, and seal brown
gray, plum and purple. Mastc Is hght shade. and
takes its hame from rcseT bance In color 10 putty
alter IL has dried and been exposed for some time ~
the action OF the atmosphere. Soufre--sulphur--in
number OF shades, is vcry fashionable.
In browns tnere are several shades IN chestnut
browns then there IL seal brown, wood brown, leaf
brown and carmelitc "a gray ish brown
Dark gray Is always III demand and ty its sober at
actiens commends itself 10 large class OF persons.
The souris-mouse gray, ana chinchta, comparatively
q light shadewi find favor. Argent is silver gray.
Dark blue is too handsome color 10 be renquished,
aud holds It's through overy caprice OF the hour
Royal purple Is to be reinstated. Encre-inks dark
shade anu oyeusc is brighter shade of dark purple.