, 1877-07-22
THE FASHIONS.
New Ways OF Dressing the Hair
---Montague Locks.
Resurrection Of Mantles---Ways Of
Making Up White Goods.
ParIsians at the Seaside.--B Battling.
Dresses and Ancient Castles.
NEW YORK,
Mf1n Ha1HH"n
Sn<ria} Corrxxuoudeuek nf TIL

1
Dame Fashion to be very gracious il
| her requirements, and in no particular ART
her exactions less rigorous than in tht
coiffurc. The cardinal rule Of all hatr-dressing
now is that whatever is most becoming is mos1
fashion, though there are few minor rules
| which cannot be overlooked. It must be 9
source OF pleasure to every well-minded being
that it is no longer necessary to pile upon the
head q gool-sizcd hay-stack Of somebody elsc's
hair This certainly is great advance, and at
this rate We shall soon see little besides be-
coming and appropriate coiGures. Hair
dfessers, who are really artists, lay down DIFF
fcrcnt regulations for blondes and brunettcs,
| and ladies' who desire to achieve the most
F, admirable results will do well to observe them.
directions may With advantage be reversed.
! These general rules are that for blonde, or
rather for light hair, tic aufiuess cannot be too
great, while dark hair should be smoothly and
| closely arranged. Hence crimping, curling,
frizzing, etc, arc not only admissible, but are
desirable for blonde hair, while "water-wares u
aud massive braids are to be encouraged. Both
styles use the ''Montnguc locks,' which arec
tanlyhideous; but What does that matter, ,solong
| as they are decidedly Ia model Thcsepopular
"Montaguc locks ~ need word of description,
as believe the name is purely local, and for the
sake, of lady's better appearance, wish the
fashion were local too. The haar around the
| forehead and temples is cut short, and with the
/ assistance OF some stiff lather Of soap or
| 'sbandoinc,n a sort Of pomalc, it is held in
] cur1s turned up towards the face and glued to
| the forehead. In short, these charming Mon
taguc locks are what was not SO loug ago COM
monty oeaomInate1 5' ..sPitccu1T!s;;'' The fringe
the case Of elderly ladies' while young ladies
! and misses wear it straight. In sumo fuccs
where the brow is painfully high, this banging
Of the hair tends to soften the outline and to
cases it is to he recommended. But when the
forehead is very low, it is advisable to avoid
either ctitnps or banged hair which would over
hang it.
classic Grecian knot is retained by ladies whose
heads have the exquisite contour absolutely
necessary for wearing this coil. Most ladies' are
familiar with the manner OF rearing this struct-
ure Of hair, but to the uuinitiatcd word of d.
reetion may be welcome. The front hair is
loosely waved, and all is gathered together at
the napc of the neck. There it Is coilcd or is
made into braid and then wound into knot,
low Oh the neck. Frizzes are sometimes worn
on the forehead with this style of coitfurc but
they are in exccrablc taste. The front hair,
being loosely waved, may admit Of few negli-
gent curls or little tcndrils Of hair, which look
soft, unstudicd, and hence pretty. Many ladicsadd
handsome ornamental comb, but, when young
ladies adopt the Grecian coil, the comb is geuer
ally omitted
ONE OF THE MosTADM1RABLEs STYLES FoRMoRS-
ING
is the French twist, though ladies to whom 1t Is
il1-adapted shun it steadily. Everybody, be-
lieyc, knows how to compound the French
twist, though everybody cannot impart to it
the smoothncss, hrmncss, and glossy look
which is its charm. The twist by itself IS much
worn, but it may be handsomely elaborated by
any one Of several additions. A bow Of hair
may be placed at the top of the twist, Or the
latter may be st1r1nounted by few fnger-puls.
This coitfure may be adopted for evening wear
By adding two long curls on the open
oHcrs s 81 Set aon 1as Ss % pa aad The p An few
strenely handsome cotffure shows the hair mass
led well nron the upper part OF the head. The
hair is drawn away from the forehead, and is
secured at the back of the head. Here double
face each other. Plain but handsome sidc-combs
are worn at the back OF the head. The front
hair is disposed in short irregular curls, and at
the sides, covering all the visible portion Of the
admired coiffurc is the Cadogan. The back-hair,
which is drawn together at the nape of the neck,
is made into broad, massive braid. The cnuis
turned up on the outside and fastened upon the |
crown Of the head. Here the hair is
fngcr-pufTs, or loops. Sometimes the puhs arc !
set to ono SIDE while the bow Of hair placed di- |
ayonally adorns the other. A comb Is usually |
the finish. The bow OF hair is, by-the-way, a |
very popular adjunct, and various are the modes t
used to introduce it. An elegant disposition Of
the hair for evening reveals this bow, large and
loose, set diagonallv on one side. The other
side IS arranged IN series Of loops, satin |
smooth, and Tapped as loops OF ribbon. Il gold |
Or silver comb, and tiny natural flowers among
the loops, complete 4 handsome coiffure.
All the charm OF a well-dresscd head does not
ar arise from juslicious disposition Of the hair.
There are all sorts OF elegant little
our % fair % DANES s'o n tn t1lcse 0'Ausn sanucl
days. The prettiest Of these are Of lace. They
arc intended for evening wear out-of-doors, and
summer resorts. They are twelve or twenty !
inches wide, with rounded poiut at the front,
and with long round ends to tie under the chin.
1EwiTcH1SG FASHION
Of Spain has been brought into our midst BY
our large and fashionable Cuban class, and the
own beautiful women The lace mantle and its
charming headpiece are seen frequently at the
watering places. The majority of these mantlcs
are Of lace, but some very handsome ones
are Of other diaphonous fabrics These
are much admired, and every lady
self Of one Ribbon bows, of tasteful and
unique construction, are charming hcad-orna-
ments. 4 very pretty one consists Of five short |
ellds.-two on one side and three on the other.
The ribbon shows all the brilliant tints of rich |
Roman ribbon. Across the centre is spray of
style make up delightfully."- for young girls, and
for morning toilettes also are much admired. |
For these black ribbon Is used, with a spray of |
Ehlte lowers, or handsome Jet clasp or buckle.
Tue ribbon must be always fringed, as it gives
lighter dressier appearance. Breakfast caps
fnrst nnl At.r