Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1877-09-01
FASHIONS FOE SEPTEMBER.
New Sly les in Materials and Co.'S
tumes-The Counting COIor-Ecunom
zeal Bridal Outfits, and New silk
Underwear
.r Special Correspondent. ]

From Oar Special Correspondent
NEW YORK. August p.
Did y on ever, did any body, ever ride or
walk through miles and miles of woods,
whore rich growth was mingled with tan
gled underwood, clumps of moss, and deli
cate Teri s? Did You ever did any body ever
lie fn that depth of shade, and looking up,
catch the glintiDg sunlight as it stole through
The leaves, Illuminating the dark spots, but
j. avfng them dark, aud cool, aud resIful sttIl?
Then mat person can have some sort OF idea
OF The materials which have been evolve 4
from the bur hands anu brains of artisans
for our use and wear duriug the pas wear
Whence came so fine a Il subtle an idea?
VINO MT on This happy thought of going TO
Inc woods, and searCbiUg In the fibres of
woods ard the primitive freshness of dark
moss For ins pirsIio0 in weaving designs Tor
Inc material of VIII. WOODEN suits and eos
TUNES are composed? Aud having got the
idea, how q id they get the result? Walk up
and down lanes of new Stuils, aud you can
almost swear 10 the sweet woody scents and
smells that come from them. Hold up n
piece to the light, and the green Is almO L
folden with the sunshine; lay it in the
shadow, and its darkness is almost black
The Sc moss green shades and messy or ii brous
designs are the notes which have been struck
for this coming fall and winter. No more
Scotch tarltans at present; 10 more wide,
solid stripes; no more detacaed tigures or
flowers, or spreading patternS-the dark moss
shade IS the great thing in plain wooden ar
muTes, matSlsssies, baSket-clothS. aud the
like, bat there are other faDricS. greater nov
cities, IN which there are several shades OF
moss, CT bronze, or olive green interviewer,
and Introduced ike Speck> N the messy ig-
ures ale tiny sunspOts in yellow floss. which
brighten the dark surface, but leave ii dark
still.
FALL COSTUMES
These charming materials are accompa-
MED by plain silks, and velvet of the same
shade, and tell their own story as to the con
tipuance of the pretty overdreSs ana useful
pOlonH.'se silk and wool, aud silk AMI velvet
Will be blended. as they have been for s.ye.
RAJ years past; hut the beauty of color and
the q ference of design In fabrics will give
to the costumes all the charm of novelty.
AS minated III previous letter, the orig
inal designs OF the present season in dress
fairies are not only fine examples of art in
industry, but they are fore tas of the
skillful combinations which are to elicit al
imitation at the forthcoming Paris exhibit
ton, and, in fact, nothing can be C ,ncei we'd
better adopted TO the carrying out of the art
istic Ideas in dress which prevail al the pres
ent lime, on which unite SO much of real
L nth witt poetic sentiment. But il must not
be opposed that these ideal fabrics will be-
common; OF some OF them not twenty
pie ces have been imported, and the price is
IDEALLY high. Why are novelties always
double the price of the standard fabrics? asks
curious person. Because they are novel
ties; because the importer pays double for
them. OF the standard fabrics there are
many; Of the new designs only very few;
the manufs cturer says; take them or leave
them; | shall want twice as much, as | have
got before they can be duplicated. So it hap
descriptions OF dress fabrics to be had, aud
if they are NOT fortunately obtained in the
beginning of the season lney cannot after
wards be found at all. There are several
forms of fall costumes, so that ladies will
lot be restricted 10 the Pfincesse.
n newer style than this is the coat dress,
consisting Of fat pieated train, skirt
trimmed In front, q coat cutavay into some
what long but not sharp points upon the
sides, and a back narrow, but strais nt across,
and trimmed Or tille3 in W ith embroidery or
with ricn nat trimming OF chenille or silk
aid chenille which latter harmonic IS wOLd
fully ell with the h 4. dsome Jafter silk and
wool \ ateTials. OF cour e there are infinite
pO sibiities in the coat ress, but il ought 10
he always of rich materials, aud not at
temp ed except by a thorough mOdiste. The
font y closed with bows of ribbon and ruf-
fes OF lace, over trimmed skirt, or some
times over q square vest; the latter is known
as The "Marquise" style, the former the
"Sicilian;' both depend upon taste and the
elegance OF fabric for their effectiveness.
n. liner the Pripcesse dress nor the cuirasse
basque has, however, been displaced. But
tie cuirasse basque is worn with trimmed
skirt, rather than with an overskirt, and the
Pm ce>se dress Is trimmed also, or ra jhar
made from design, which Is complete in
itself, ar d requires but little extraEeous
orrs mtnt. Many of these forms may, in
deed, he called East Lake" for the beauty
ard finish is all in the material, and In
cOrporated so strictly into the body OF the
garment, that nothing seems TO have been
stuck in without use or purpose, which is so
often the Case with trimming. Bows down
the front are more ample and effective than
buttons, aDd one must be glad TO see them re-
vived though not TO the exclusi ion OF buttons,
for these must always be used when the
fastening is effected upon the side. Bows
are now made of ribbons nearly two
inches in width. The out door accom-
pantment to fall costume is a sacpalatOt of
medium length, and made of heavy silk, or
OF material matching the overdress. OF
course this latter is only the case when 1t is a
simple armure or other cloth in q soilei color.
A sudden revival of the pleated Jacket bod
dice has taken place which has become rage
for morning wear at hotels and watering
places. IL is usually made with al over
shirt, and worn with a cOlored silk, slip or
an undeIdress OF Oatiste, and the jacket,
which is ornamented with bows, is also
belted in with ribEOn the color of the silk
or III Z batiste. White muslin overdresSes of
this des cripliOn may be utilized for evening
wear ny yop-s ladies al very small cost, by
making up min black or cOlOred muslin
elite or arlatane skirt aud corset cover, and
wearing the muslin over 1t, with ribbons TO
match The underdress.
ECONOMICAL BRIDAL OUTFITS.
Many young ladies write TO know how
small amount of money can be used to Tho
best advantage in procuring a bridal outfit,
and few general suggestions may be found
more useful than the narrowing down of
such directions as can be given 10 special
details or course the question is greatly
siml Lifted If the under clothing has been pro-
vided at home, and has not to be taken into
cor sideratiOn, and this ought always TO b,
the case where economy Is an object. Next
IL 10 we'll " scc WDdl may Dt 81 once SET ASIDE
as not practicable, and under this head In
such case should always be put the white
bridal dress, the white shoes, the traditional
orange blossoms, wreath, veil, and the like.
For the orange blossoms are OF no use at all
after the ceremony, and the veil Is only good
TO tear up into fancy bonnet strings and neck
ties, and the white dress may never be
wanted, ana may, as 1t often does, lay by
until 1t is yellow, and then, after it has been
dyed, serve for An ignoble lining. The most
economical bridal dress is the modern cos
tune, or what is technically called q travel
ing dress. This is always of such material
and design as iu an ordinary wardrobe
adapts ii 10 church OF visiting purposes after
wards, and the necessity OF having 1t COM
plete insures the possession of one well made
pIesentable suit al least. Light and fancy
silks may also be set aside. II but one silk
dress can be afforded, that should be black;
II but two, black and navy blue, or black and
brown, or dark moss green, the leading color
the present season. Cashmere Is SO fashion,
able now that cashmere costume, which
has become indispensable, Is also perfectly
safe and lady like. 1t may be united with
silk or velvet, or one of the new fancy wooden
materials, and if two complete costumes are
not 10 be thought OF, nothing better could be
selected for the wedding dress than some
such combination as has been mentio,a5