New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1877-04-10


ali the foreign produce are transported in this maui
ner A wheeled carriage for such service Is never
seen. No fine building presents remarkable as
pect Teheran is a city of mud in oasis of plane
trees.
One sees nothing but wide dusty spaces broken occa
sonally by mudwal OF precisely me same eour1S o
road After riding within the gates across country i"I
about mile through holes In the walls OF dusty lnc,"
sres which looked as II somebo1y had 81 one line
thought them wcrth mud-wa and on secohi 'lou-ntT
had arrived a an opposite conclusion we came 70 some
thing that had III the uniformity OF lis width hc ASPECT
81 street. but like al the other way OF lenei, 'S
bounded by apparently interininabc walls OF i,'.
irurbOund door the single sign that this erect on was
the outer wall Of hahita1ns. At last We arrived h the
fashion and there tic Only difference that the
twelvefoot wall raneled, and the mud cement Gov
with liner plaster, and washed over with pine, uon
which were scroled decorations nodded III the same
plaster
The most interesting part of Teheran to the au-
thor was found in the bazaars. which the Europeans
of the legation rarely enter, the ladies never. The
sight of an unvailed woman has tendency to make
Persans use language which cannot be taken but as
an insult. large Enclosure separates the buildings
of the palace from the bazaar. in this open space
there are two large tanks, at which camels horses
mules and men are constantly drinking. Another
important establishment in Tcheran is the lndo-
European telegraph
The tcsiinesations most Of which visited in pass
ing through Persia are generally placed about hundred
Troon srd egcnil Win ria" men On duty al he sta
OHs either side in order to SEQ that no break has oc
cured IN The line and that all Is IN good WORKING Oiutf
II the copuoriion il broken The native husemcn at
taClcd to each station sent 0u 10 rlGc along
the of the wires till they reach the fracture AZ
the break must De known u two stations, the E0TSe.h
are sometimes out from both and meet where tde
repair l. needed. The fracture Of thc wires bY design OF
malice is Of very rare occurrence; but tty are broken
now and then ny bullets. PcrsIns are ambitious "i hh
in riicshoOtne and IN the plains where hdiuia targets
scarce they Gd in the earhenware nsniatoT oil le
telegraph most inviting object Sometimes the pOts
arc overhrown by storms OF wind and songtimgs tiI
ny weight Of froz snow which collects in t!hck icy
bands from pole ~ pole
From Teheran. Mr. Arnold decided to make the
the journey to Ispahan, in takht-i-rawan vehicle
somewhat like a scdan-char, and carried by two
mules. who are hamcsscd between two long poles
forming four shafts on the fore and hind parts of
The carriage. After a tedious preparation, every
thing was at last ready for the start. The back seat
Of the takht-i-rawan was to he occupied by Mrs.
Arnold Ii was padded with wool mattress cover
ing the back and sides, and held in position by
straps NJ the corners. rug and pillows were used
for cushions, and on tie opposite seat the rest OF
the bedding secured by cotton bags. The
author was filed with dsmay at the sight of the
baggage while waiting for the mules. There were
bedsteads and boxes, tables and camp stools, mating
and carpets, and heap Of pots and pans kHzem
the Persian steward had brought from the market
half sheep, quantity of potatoes, such as In Ed
gland would he given to pigs, SOME large onions,
huge turnips, coarse carrots, and enormous can
bages The load was well secured, the softcst
things placed on the top, the English lady, always
an object of deepest interest to the Persian popua-
ton installed in her chair OF state, and the driver
mounted OF the roof his legs swinging on either
side with the regularity OF pendulum. string
OF loaded mules and riders bring mp the rear, sur
rounded with servants, mounted and Others on
foot the servants Of the house. following in Persian
fashion, not only to the door, but for some distance
toward the gate of the city.
The track for there are no roads, led over the
Great Salt Desert of Persia, which occupies part OF
the center and a great portion of the northeast of
the country. 1t has neither vegetation nor good
water lii crossing corner of this deS0ldte region,
not a tree or blade of seen for days. The
surface in many places is thickly incrusted with
salt that il looks as if il had been covered with
slight snowfall The streams are braclish and uu-
wholesome, and good neither for man nor beast.
There is no frewool. The dcsolaton Of the scene
in some places exceeded the pictures of fancy.
There was not a drop of water for the animals from
morning till night. not shadow i'll which to escape
from the glaring light,
On approaching Ispahan, Mr.. Arnold was again
dlsmaycd at the wrctchedness and ruin Of the out
skirts of the town. There was nothing to he seen
but mud except the few domcs and towers that
rose but little above the low houses lSpahan is for
the most part in ruins. Still the sacred duty of
hospitality is not neglected. The author was one
dav invited to a dinner which was to be thoroughly
Persian Ii was a bitter cold evening and the
guests arrived wrapped from head to foot i'll fuIs
The room was without chairs table, with
nothing indeed but carpet. The shoes Of all the
guests who were not European left outside the
L. hin in IF In.
apartment which was at once reception and din
ing-rooIn. Three musicians sat on the floor, with
guitar ia eolet and drum. The author found il
no easy matter to meet the demands Of Persian Ell
quete which forbds the display of ones legs on the
carpet To sit on the heels. III Persian fashion,
quilcs the training of a lifetime No one can as
sune the posture for the first time in manhood. Mr.
Arnold found his legs appearing so awkward that
he was glad to hide the exhibition with a shawl
His neighbOr, man of splendid apparel managed
his naked cxtTcnitjcs with such imposing dignity
fondling now and then his toes with his hands, as
made the Englishman regard his own legs and
booted feet a positive nuisance. This man,
who had the title of Khan, robe
of honor which had been given him by the SHAH
and beneath this garment, upon the junction of his
green tunic and loose trousers, his waist bound
with a magnificent scarf. lie seemed q man of i'm
rncsc strength. His face was bounded above by his
black hat, and beneath Oya dense beard dyed with
hcsanc color He had but one tone OF voice and that
the loudtst in the room. The man, II appeared, had
aluassed immense wealth from farming the customs
in the South Of Persia He had rs free Il range with
the public money rs if ne had been New-lork Off
cia and collected what he could from the taX-pay-
ers without accounting 10 any one, condition Of
handing Il certain fixed sum to the Government
treasury. The description of the progress OF the
I 15i,-