New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1877-08-24
THE STRANGER IN ENGLAND.
RAMBLEs ABOUT LONDON.


OF G0LDsMTH-A VISIT TO SOUTHWARK
snAKFsPrArr's THFATRE-SOUTHwAHK,P ASrAND
pnrsrNT-rnr ANCIENT CHURCH OF ST. sA-
VforR's-GRAVEs or COVER. MAsSiNGEE
FLETCHER AND EDMOND SHAKESPEARE
ivpoN srArF CORRESPONDENT or THE TRIBuNR1
YoxpoN Jnly 2O.-ATl old cities get rich in assocl-
alton. az matter of course, and whether they VIII
or no. but London, by reason OF It's great extent as
we'll as its great antiquity, Is surely richer IN aSsoc
tons than any modern place on earth. Inc stranger
scarcely takes step in its streets without encOh-
terine some new object Of interest, The walk along
the strand and Fleet-st in particular, is CON
tinuallv ON s'oried vround Old Temple Bar still
stsnds though lettering to it's fall" and marks the
division between the two streets. The statues OF
Charles and Charles H. on its western front womb
he remarkable anywhere as faithful ard srnoed
p,rraits Yon stand beside this arch aud quite for
get the passing throng and take no need OF the W.
mplt aronnd Won, as you think Of DIR. johnson ana
Boswell leaning against this wall aiter hiU
night in the far-off times, and WaKihs 'ne
echoes Of the Temple Garden with their ifoi'cso'',
noise and laughter The Bar Is c%retailF propI'"
now. and they will nurse its age as long as theY
car: hut It is an obstruction to trave-as inuch 81
IA wall with three gates in 1t wouid DE @otOs,
IlYoadvya v-ond il must come down They VIII
,,,,b his, set H. up newly bnilt, in another place
Nothing Is destroyed in England They nave even
1ef, untouched little piece If the original scAHoiu
inc bnilt around st. Pauls; and this fragment o.
dceovinq wood NAV still be seen, sticking be-
tween two pilasters high mp upon the hoe u
the Cathedral The Rainbow, the Mnre
the Cheshire Cheese and tho Round l"o.e-
nil taverns or pnblc houses that were "o
o,ontod nv the old wits-are still extant' The Chesh
ire Cheese is scarcely changed at all from WHAT VI WAS
Ichen Johnson and Goldsmith and then comrades
IL ,;o al drqul. u0rtpr there ana tiic
Doctor tossed and gored several people" as IL was
his wont ia do The benches in that room are as IN
comfortable AS they well could be; mere lodges OF
weU-worn wood on which the visitor SITS DOH up
right in difficult dignity: bnt There is probably nom
ing on earth that would induce the proprietor 10
alter thenl-and he is quite right. tho c"iSeI'"-
tive princpIe m the English mind, if It has saved
Ms some trash has saved us more treasure Al
the foot Of Bucklugham-str little OH
the Strand-where was situated the estaie VI
that Vllliers who was assaSsnnted IN IoZo' an"
whose tomb may De seen ~ Henry Wis chapei III
Westminster Abbey-stil stands The slowly cTnmh-
1, minis ~ Tho old Vafef Gate So often mentioned
as fine SPOT where accused traitors were embarked
for the Tower The river in former times flowed up
TO this but the land along the margin OF tAe
Thames has been redeemed IN our day, ana thal
magnificent structure known a. the Victoria Az"
Albert Embank1nent hens in the entire rVer iof
long distance on both sides The Water Gaze III
fact stands in u little park on the bank OF the nNei'
Not far away is the Adelph Terrace where GaHicN
lived and where in 1922, his widow died AT gre.
AGE The house OF Garrick is let IN chambers
NOW aud his drawing room at this moment chances
10 be a candidate Tor tenancy. II yon walk uP
the Strand towards Charing Cross you presently
cor,e near TO the Church of ST. Martin's-in-thc-
Fields which is one of the best works OF Sit CHRIS
topber Wren The fogs have stained this hulding
with snch detly artistic touch that its appearance
has an the charm Of lovely stcreOscopie view.
Nell Gwvone's name Is connected with It. Martins
She vas wont to attend church here, and She lelt III
perpetnty 80 leg Of mutton and trimmings TO tho
ringers q the bell and every Friday to this day they
rim il for Poor Ney's' sake. Her funeral occaued
in this church, and very pompous, and no less
person than Archbishop Tenuison preached the
funeral sermon. That prelates dust reposes
in Lambeth Church. which can he seen, across the
river. from tins part Of Westminster. II you walk
down the Strand through Temple Ear, you mes
e,tlv reach the Temple. and there Is no place III
I,n,don where the past and the present arc 50
strangely confronted as they are here The ven
scf, bic gray church sleeping IN the sunshine
when first ] saw It sparrows were twiticfnS
around its spires, and gliding in aad out OF the
creyiceS in its ancient walls while from WITHIN a
strain Of low, sweet organ music rolled aud lreh-
hlel forth, till all the ar became DeheHlctoi'
and every common thought and feeling was chas-
tened away from mind and heart. Tine grave OF
Goldsmith is close to the pathway that runs beside
tie church on q terrace raised above the foundation
of the buidino and the little graveyard Of the
Tc,pIars that nestles IT its base As stood beside
the rcsting-piace OF the sweetest OF poets II was I'M
possible not to feel both greved and glad-gTicved
at the thought Of all he suffered and of all the
poetic nature must always suffer before 1t Will give
out lis Immortal music for mankind glad that
his gentle spirit found rest at last, and that
time has given him the glory he would
most have prizcd-the affection of all true
hearts A gray stone somewhat cotin-shsped, and
marked with thu crossafer the fashion Of the tombs
of the TeIrplars-is imposed upon his grave. one
surface bears the inscription, Here lies Oliver
Goldsmith: the other presents the dates of ils
birth and death tried to call up the scene OF his
burial when around the open grave stood Johnson,
Burke and Reynolds. and LangtOn. Beaacierc, Bos-
well and Tom Davies, and saw
"The duties by the lavnTobed prelate paid
And the last rites that dust 10 duso conveyed"
No place could be less romantic than Southwark
is now but there are few places in England that
possess greater charm for the literary pilgrim.
Shakespeare lived there, and il was there that he
managed bis theatre and made his fortune Old
London Bridge spauned the Thames at this point, in
those days and was the only road TO the Surrey
side of the river. The theatre stood near the end
of the bridge and Yves thus easy Of access 70 thc
wits and boaux of London. No trace Of 81 now re-
mains; but public house called the Globe
which was it's name-is standing there. and The old
church OF ST. SayiOur's-into which Shakespeare
uast ofteu have entefed-5tin braves the storms
aud still resists the encroachmens Of time AMI