The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1877-07-19
The Fashions.

Great improvements have been, and
are still being, made in the style and cut
of the bodice, the object being to
lengthen, as much as possible, the dis
tance between the arm and the hip.
Basques are very long and smooth, fit
ting the figure like a glove. Sometimes
there are five seams extending to the
shoulders, forming a double side-body,
as in the Princesse. Again, there are
three seams curved toward the arm-hole.
Some basques have belts attached to the
side seams, and fastened by gold buckle
a little to the left of the front. Others
are girdles pointed in the middle on the
upper edge, while the lower edge is
trimmed with rows of silk loops. Others,
again, are folds of satin buttoned in
front; all, however, being on the sides,
leaving the back to show the graceful
curve of the seams without interruption.
These are finished with the English col
lar, made very high, with the front
points rolled open very far, to show the
inside facing. The bow at the throat is
invariably used. The Continental, or
Louis XIV. basque, with vest and square
postillion, is much used for rich toilets.
Brocaded silks, copied from pictures by
Vatican, are made on purpose. This
stylish garment has a postillion in the
back heightened into two equal lappels,
with small Mousquetaire facing, in the
Mousquetaire style. A broad, square
collar is sometimes used to match the
cuffs, which finish the sleeves.
SLEEVES.
The sleeve is placed high in the shoul-
der, and the shoulder seam far back.
The arm-hole is much rounded in front.
The cord around the arm-size is placed
upon the inside, or between the lining
and the material, to give good set to
the sleeve. Like every other item of the
toilet, they are closely fitted, upon the
Duchesse order, plain below the elbow,
with buttons and simulated button-holes
on the elbow seam, which is sometimes
made to lap over fatty, as base for
trimming. A small cuff or puff may be
added, which gives broad-shouldered
effect to slender figure. In more fan
ciful toilets the outer seam is slashed and
filled in with puff of the material used
in trimming the costume. In fact, the
sleeve is the objective point of garniture.
Epaulette-like straps or bands are pret-
tier with low corsage than short sleeves,
which break the harmony of outline, and
which, if employed at all, should be SIM
ply putting or fall of lace. The Mar
tina Washington sleeve, plain and close
to the elbow, where it is supplemented
by fall of lace, is very stylish, either
for full dress or for the street, always, of
course, in conjunction with the twelve
button gloves now in vogue. The cord
around the arm-size is set on the inside
as we'll as the outside, to set the sleeve
up easily.
For time these have become over
dresses, and usually of the Princesse or
der, though the diaphanous, or even
semi-diaphanous, materials come in.
There is demand for something more.
Overskirts alternate with polonaises
where slightly bouffant effects are desir-
able. The scarf appliances so prevalent
do not retain position so well as in silk
or velvet There is such variety in the
styles from which to choose, suggestions
seem superfuous yet it seems most fit
ting to select from the present order OF
grenadines, gazelines, etc., such design
as will best assimilate with the basque
chosen, and display to greatest advantage
the somewhat complicated figure of the
fabric.
CRINOLINES.
The demand of the present styles for
some sustaining power is imperative.
Small hoopskirts. with no hustle, are
now made with light, supple springs OF
steel below the region of the loins, to
carry the weight of the skirt from off the
limbs, thus accelerating the chances Of
walking conveniently and preserving the
heels of boots from the friction of stiff
braids, facings and other unwieldy sub
stances employed to face the skirt around
the bottom. They are laced just back o.
the hips, in order that their size may bt
changed at pleasure. There are no hoops
in the center where the wearer would sit
upon them, and the front is mere lad
der of tapes, and the ends of hoops ART
lost in the fullness of the dress upon thu
sides, the back support causing the trair
to flow out gracefully. They cost from
81. so upward. Petticoats are so arranged
that they add to the fullness of skirts
and care should be taken that nothing
should destroy the glove-hke fit of th'
bodice, which constitutes the perfection
of present models. LAToNA.