The Portland daily press., 1877-12-06

one such bow near the back of the square neck,
and another in front. From four TO six plain
round satin buttons, an inch in diameter and
9uIging out in the CENTRE flsteu such waists.
hlch lace IS no longer used as gathered hounees
GROUND the skirt but is laid on fatty on the
iront ana side cores to outline an apron, and
tnus the nDe design Of the lace is displayed; it
also forms iabots down the sides or in the mid
uie OF the traln. The trimming at the foot of
the front breadths is always of the dress mate
rial. and must be a very simple and narrow bor-
DER The back of such dresses, whether high
or low in the neck, has most usually the
princesse effect, with waist and train in one,
with either three, five, or seven seams curving
over the tournure, and fitting the figure as If
nodded upon 1t; very small ladies' use only
three seams as more than these make the back
look patched. The tram consists of three
stralght long breadths, not looped, but held
PACK Dy rows OF tapes underneath, and thus
FORMING fan, or else they are left to flow
freely, and are trimmed with revers on each
side. The edge of So u3h trans is also simply
trimmed with one or two narrow knife-pleat-
ings set in. or else 1t is cut in deep points that
are mounted on knife-pleatings. The
modste furnishes trained petticoat hounced
to the waist bebinS, or else she inserts a long
fan-shaped piece of crinoline in the train, and
when the balayeuse of muslin and lace is
added, the trained skirt may be dispensed with.
1t IS also true that separate oyer-skirts are not
used with basque dresses except for very young
girls; the trimming is invariably laid on the
trained skirt. The new basques have square
position backs, beaded in the corners to hold
them In place, and OTnamented very simply,
either with few pleats and buttons. or else
large bow made up of the middle forms
heightened sufficiently and wi1ened. Beads
form trimming for all kinds Of dresses; pearl
trimmings are for light silks; rainbow beads,
cL01r de lltle, and the mOdore beads, which are
old gold" in color, trim black and cOlored
dresses, and jet beads with steel gray are on
black dresses. Flowers are seen In sprays to
form side trimming, and in small clusters, but
the long garlauds and vines have been used iu
such profusion that they are losing favor Two
or three fabrics enter into each dress, yet but
one shade of the color appears, and this shade
must be among the lightest; thus pearl-color
is used instead of lavender, and ivory white
is preferred to cream-color. If a contract or
drak color is employed it is in the flowers
Slippers are made of the silk of the dress, and
the silk stockings are chosen of the same tint
Many ladies wear thin lisle-thread stockings
inside colored silk ones. Mitts reaching to the
elbow are worn either thu color of the dress In
silk lace with Valenciennes, or else they are
duchesse or of round point lace to match the
lace used on the dress.
Black silk dresses are made very handsome
for receptions by having sleeves of transparent
lace or of jet or else being trimmed with point
or other white lace on the cuffs. the square neck
add sides of the skirt There are also apron
breadths of striped white and black silk with
empress waists and trains OF black silk. Inch
wide stripes of white satin with black satin
form the three front bIeodths of such dresses.
One comfort to the purchaser is found in the
smaller quantity OF material used in these
esses that have single skirts. Eleven
or twelve yards of brocade form the
waist and train; plaio gros grain is then re-
Guired only for the three short front | readths
and for hounces.