The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1877-12-15
Review Of Fashions.

limits OF columns We're permitted to the
fashion writer, it might not be impossi-
bic to prove that attention to dress is
not necessarily stimulant to eXtrava-
gance nor the expression of eccentric
lty. Where a few riot in novelty and
emulate the hero who first swallowed an
oyster, thousands cling to conserv-
alive ideas and are satisfied with being
becomingly appareled, without illus
tratlng the capriceS of rapid civiliza-
ton. By and by, when every woman
becomes able to overcome the technical
difficulties of dress-making, and know
how to work Il general conformity to
fashion without copying by the eye,
there will be artistes in every household,
and the Independent woman will be
able to show the tangible results of
skill and economy. AS fashions stand
now, those who would dress acceptably
must either deliver themselves over to
superior authority, or keep pace with
changes which are more frequent now
adays than they have ever been before.
The latter alternative is certainly easiest
and best
just as the winter settles into place
and operation, many ladies rebel against
the burthen of trailing dresses for the
street, and skirts are shortened quite
perceptibly. This modification applies
only to shopping and walking costumes,
however, and it would even seem that
as a compromise full-dress toilets are
exaggerated in length. A new design
for skirt which may be heightened or
shortened as required consists of the
usual sections, viz: front, side-gore and
back-breadth, with an extra flounce,
which is to supply the length desired.
Upon this well-proportioned skirts,
draperies and trimmings which simu-
late the overskirts are permanently fast
ened
The friendly warfare between polo
naises and basques with overskirts, real
or simulated, becomes more and more
animated, and, contrary to expecta-
tons, the opposition is not set
tied by the interposition of outside
garments. 1t is evident that the
plain polonaise is superseded by the
more dressy novelties which combine
features of other garments, affording
opportunities for blending colors or
using two varieties of material Where
a polOnaiSe is intended for street service,
and made of heavy suiting, the varia-
ton consists of something appertaining
to a coat or outside garment, such as a
vest, and overhanging jacket front, with
the skirt portion showing long revers.
The outlines of the figure are carefully
observed, and there is very little effect
of drapery. In making up polonaises
for the street, ladies select designs
which have but little looping or drapery,
and adjust these as low at the back as
is possible. Newly-imported garments
which observe these particulars are pre-
cisely similar to such polonaises, but
pass under the name of pelisses. The
outline is a matter of taste, but in gene
raj the hem is cut uniformly or else
shows slight depression at the back.
Such model serves for cloth gar
ment, trimmed with fur, or for mate
lasse and velvet with trimmings of
passementerie.
Basques for winter show vests, or APP
pliques in the form of vests, in almost
every instance, and this is relied upon
to exhibit the striking feature of the
garment. The richest material is Sc
lected, and this is repeated in the cuffs,
collarette, revers, or any lesser portion
of the toilet. The Breton dress and
polonaise, the princesse, and basques of
all kinds, show the kind of vest es-
pecially suited to their form, and lace,
embroideries and applique work are
used for ornamentation. Basques for
the street are also modelled with vests,
and costume of heavy wool material
with short skirt just escaping the
ground, simple round overskirt and
basque with vest of the same, the entire
dress being bound with worsted braid
and ornamented with handsome buttons,
is now considered superior style for
young ladies.
Pleated waists have been mentioned
again and again in these pages as lead
ing favorites, and now, as winter tot
lets are put on, they are decidedly the
prominent design. Nothing is so be-
coming to a slender figure, and few
modes give better appearance to the
round and full figure. Variety is sup
piled by making the centers in box
pleats, using figured material, while
the rest is plain. The back conforms in
pleating and the centers are extended
like the habit basque. Handsome belts
are indispensable.
The princesse dress and the prncesse
polonaise, so often described, remain
leading fashions, and are seen in the
richest as well as the plainest materials.
For combination purposes, as well as
for full-dress evening service, these de-
signs are without rivals, and the same
may be said of their appropriateness
for the flat garnitures which are at
present supreme in favor. Readers are
assured that nothing more desirable
than these models will appear this
winter, as the princesse in construction
meets the requirements of every figure,
and is more suggestive of trimming
effects than any design that has yet been
introduced.
Young ladies are advised by the fa-
nous authority at Paris to wear waists
which have yoke and pleats at the
back, while the front is designed with a
basque laid in two or three side pleats
through the center, with a vest inter-
vening. This style is seen extensively
in plain cashmeres or smooth surface
suitings combined with silk.
The newest form of sleeve is the ia