The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1877-03-10
M;!Ske Ratut.
PLANTING FRUIT TREES.


preparation. The best site for fruit /
garden or orchard is on the slope OF a
gentle declivity with southern or west
ern aspect, and well sheltered from the
east and north winds In many in
stances the planter has but limited |
range to select from, but low, damp |
situations should always be avoided, as
spring frosts are ALWAYS more destruc
tive in such positions The summit OF
hill, if well sheltered by higher |
range at no great distance or by woods |
and plantations not TOO near, is not a
bad site for fruit garden, as the free
drainage and free exposure on all sides
except east and north-that point from
which the coolest currents flow, as this
varies in different localities-has a ten
dency to produce short ointed, welt
ripencd wood as well as retard the bios
soming in spring, and as consequence,
they often escape when others that are
too much sheltered are destroyed
If artificial drainage be necessary, it
should be the first thing attended to,
and in no case should the drains be less
than four feet deep, as shallow drains
are often rendered useless by the frosts
penetrating the joints of the pipes and
blocking up the waterway with tibrous
growth. Nothing is more certain than
fruit trees will not long flourish with
their roots in water: at the same time,
draining is the only one means Of i'm
proving land. True, it should precede
all other attempts to ameilorate cold,
wet land but unless it is accompanied
or Immediately followed by better cul
ture, half its intended benefits are lost.
There are many orchards in low- wing
districts, where the old moss-covered
trees might yet be improved by drain
ing, especially if accompanied by rich
top-dressings over the roots. Draining
off the surplus water admits more air
into the land, raises its temperature and
stimulates the roots to increased actIv-
itv, and it is at such times that rich
dressings on the surface will be bench
cal, especially in dealing with old trees
Draining also improves the climate of a
district materially by reducing the evap-
Grafton from Its surface.
The ground intended for fruit trees
should be thoroughly trenched, and if
the stratum of good soil on the top is
less than two feet in depth, every thing
obtainable calculated to improve its
character, with due regard to the object
in view. should be added Light, brashy
land NAV be made to grow fair samples
of fruit by adding clay or marl-by in
fact, giving to the land what it is def
cient Of In like manner, heavy land
may be opened up and improved by
adding opposite character.
MANY failures in fruit culture might
have been obviated if a correct esti
mate had been formed Of the nature of
the soil and situation, and proper steps
taken to ameliorate its condition before
planting the trees / am not in favor
of severe pruning, but all young trees
must be headed back to secure Il sufi-
cient number of branches to lay the
foundation of the future tree The best
time to perform this operation is in
early spring when the roots are active,
and just before the buds are preparing
to push As rule, the nearer to the
base the branches are cut back, the
stronger they will push, and all young
shoots not absolutely required to form
the tree should either be rubbed off or
pnched back to four or five leaves.
Light and air are essential, not only to
mature the growth, but also for its pro-
per elaboration: and if all ewes that
push are allowed to develop branches.
the stimulus impaired to the roots by
the extra foliage will be no gain if OBJ
tanned at the expense of main branches,
as it is more important for every leaf
on those to have its due share of air
and sunlight, than for tree to be al
lowed or encouraged to carry Il great
surface of foliage on the plea that it all
tends to encourage root action, and
must therefore add to the strength Of
the tree. 1t is such treatment that
encourages grossness of habit and de-
lays fruitfulness.
| have referred to the advantages of
deeply working and improving the land
before planting, but | am also strongly
of opinion that the soil should haze
time to consolidate before planting takes
place; and il any considerable number
Of trees have to be planted, should
have the trenching done in the autumn
or winter as most convenient, and crop
the land with potatoes the following
season, and plant the trees early in the
autumn next ensuing. The advantages
of this plan will be considerable. as the
working of the land for potatoes will
not only free it from weeds, but will
cause such a thorough intermixing Of
the soil as will be permanently benef-
cal to the trees. OF course where only
a tree or Two has to be planted this will
not be necessary, but even with isolated
trees, | contend they will do better in
soil we'll worked and afterwards con
solidated by artificial means, if neces-
sary. than if planted without any such
care pains being taken. as is too com
monty done.
Where the subsoil is radically bad
and the means to improve it cannot be
had, station planting may be adopted
with advantage This consists in plac-
ing layer of concrete or something Of
an impervious nature in the bottom of
the hole to prevent the roots descend
ing beyond limited depth, and to give
them horizontal direction | am in
favor of rather close planting at first,
and, if necessary. thin out afterwards,
as this enables the trees to nurse or
shelter each other In this respect much
depends upon the kinds of fruits planted.
A s an illustration, take the case of ap-
pies; almost every variety has dis
tinct habit Of growth: some are exceed.
ingly vigorous, others make wood more
sparinGly; and above all, soil and stu
alton exert a wonderful influence upon