The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-05-30
From Harper's Bazar.I
Paris Fashions.

Fashion, while extremely tolerant as regards
Getails, remains infexible as to certain rules
thus it peremptorily exacts that women should
be sheathed from neck to feet in garment
stretched on the figure, giving them the an.
pearance of pencil with train attached. 1t
also dictates that these scant toilettes shall
have a rich appearance and be heavily trimmed.
From this it will be seen that fashion requires
impossblities; but it is quite right in this, see-
ing that it obtains them. The skirt which
serves for the foundation of the toilette and is
generally OF silk, and in exceptional cases of
wool to match the rest of the Dress is combined
IN the followieg manner: Skirt composed of
four breadths the first (front) breadth is foIty-
four inches long, and is cut bias on each side
from the top to the middle of its length, SO
that the upper edge is twelve inches wide aud
the under edge twenty-three inches wide. On
each side is breadth a'yard and half long,
cut bias on both sides from the upper edge to
half yard from the bottom; beginning from
this point IS added gore six inches wide on
the bottom. This makes three breadths; the
fourth (back) breadth is only 6hree-quarters of
yard long, and is completed by train COM
posed of two breadths, which measure each
thirty-two inches in length and are pleated at
| the top and set on the under edge Of the back
breadth. In forming the pleats care should be
| taken TO mass them as little as possible toward
| the middle of this 1ounce. Atoye the founce
| is shirr, through which two cords are run
crossWise, which serve to tie back the back
breadth.
These details are very necessary since with
out them 1t would be very difficult to compre-
hend now women can move with their narrow
and sSeath.like skirts and with so much trim
ming trailing behind them, The two back
breadths, forming kind of deep founce, are
concealed by the polonaise. They support the
whole edlhce OF trimmings, and really give the
skirt all tbs width of which it is deprived in
olr; r;.A. =
ner those of silk as well as those of batiste or
of wool.
The trimming universally adopted for linen
and batiste dresses is white lace mixed with a
color to match the linen or batiste. These
white laces are made mixed with red, yellow,
orange, blue, and rose. This trimming, which
soils less than all white lace, is quite suitable
for summer wear on account of its gay, slightly
rustic and unceremonious appearance.
All toilettes have long skirts-too long, in
fact, for walking or travelling. But as fashion
dictates that 1t shall be thus there is nothing
10 DO but to conform with this decree. Moder-
ately long skirts are raised by three tabs at
tached In the back each to a button, and two
button-holes placed in front at the height of the
pockets and attached also to button. AS to
long and extremely long skirts, they are actu-
ally carried on the arm. L do not think that
this is convenient or even graceful, but it is at
present considered the most distingue among
the superlatively elegant people.
Inc mousquetaire cuffs of lace to be worn
outside the sleeve have been heralded for some
time, and are now found among the importa-
toDs; They are six inches Deep and square, or
else they are closed in gauntlet shape for the
hand to be slipped through. At present. they
are only shown in the white and colored tor
chon laces that are with simple toilettes, aud
give sort of rustic air to the summer cos
tunes: Accompanying these are broad collar
cites that fasten behind and have long iabots
in 'front.' The set costs from IS to S12. Linen
mousquetaire cuffs have straight bands of linen
in the centre, two inches wide when doubled,
and edged on both sides and each end with
wide gathered Smyrna lace.
scARFs FOR THE NECK, ETC
Notwithstanding the popularity of short
neckerchiefs for street wear, long scarfs remain
In favor, and various. materials are introduced
for these scarfs; these are no longer black or
white only, but are of all the new light shades
cream, tilleul, and pale blue. Silk Valencen-
mes or netting in the striped designs Of VaIen-
ciennes lace is a novelty for scarfs. Cream
colored and black Brussel net in scarf widths
is provided with plain border to finish the
edges.
Colored crepe lisse is imported for pleatiugs
TO be worn inside the neck and sleeves of
dresses. 1t is in the fashionable yellow shades,
mandarin, cream, buttercup and the creamy
green tilleul.
For the neck scarf, and also for scarf strings
of bonnets and for veils is black or white tulIe
with tassels of floss silk tied in the meshes.
White tulle has black or blue tassels; black
tulle has tilleul, cardinal or mandarin yellow.
1t is twenty seven inches wide and costs $1.2 a
yard. Black tulle dotted with straw, cream
color or tileul is used for the same purpose, and
costs 65 cents yard
Deep square collars of torchoG lace, partly
white and partly pink or blue, are worn by
small children; they cost S1.50. Antique lace
collars for the little folks are $3
A novelty for trimming summer dresses is
Italian Valenciennes lsces with the figures car
ried out in colors either buff, navy blue, or
rose; these cost from 25 cents to so cents q
yard. The tOrchon or Smyrna lace of mixed
white and color costs from % cents to S1.25a
yard. 1t is very fashionable for trimming la
dies and children's dresses of wash goods; it
also trims the hannels and French buntings
used for seaside and mountain dresses, and is
pretty for flannel morning dresses and dressing
sacgues
The newest dressy trimming for the neck is a
boa made of white lace studded with small
flowers, such as violets, myosotis, or.lilac.
Lace barbes are embroidered or else chain
stitched in India colors, such as olive, tillleul,
blue, mandarin and cardinal; price SIS.
Handkerchiefs and neck-ties for morning
wear are trimmed with the new colored torchon
laces, either blue or red with white in insertion
and edgings.
Long mits of white or black lace reaching
above the elbow are to be worn with the short
sleeves of summer full-dress attire. The tors
are finished with ruffies of Valenciennes edging
and are tied around the arm Win pale united
ribbon. There are also tinted blue cream and
flesh coored lace mts to match the colors of
evening dresses. They are $40 pair.
New garnitures of roses and leaves have tiny
shellsibaDging amid the foliage. Mother-of pearl
leaues form margueriteS and forget-me-nots for
bonnets and for dress garniture. For corsape
bouquets to be worn in day as we'll as evening
are clusters of long-stemmed violets or else
mandarin roses with mignonette, or pink coral
roses with rubber grasses. Tiny bouquets are
also attached to fans.
New fan-h0lders are silk cords that pass
around the waist, and have an elaborate chate-
laine of passementerie.
Fichus of black China Grape are embroidered
in cashmere colors on the edge, or else edged
with the new white laces that are wrought
with silks of the Oriental shades,
New linen collars are cut low at the throat,
but they have reyers that fold closely together
and conceal the throat The edges are needle
worked in scalops of red with black, blue or
LIZ L. - - . Z