The aegis & intelligencer. [volume] (Bel Air, Md.) 1864-1923, 1877-05-11
WI i q @ elIane O q.
For the -Bgis Dc Mtelligencer.
On to Rome.

The cessation of an onerous, though not
disagreeable task, gives me leisure to re-
sumo the pleasant duty of giving you a
few more of my European experiences, and
| am in hopes that we will have no more
intervals as long as the last one, until
we arrive safely at the end. Such in
terruptions have the very bad effect of
breaking the connection of incidents, and
thus destroying the interest of the reader.
| had no idea, when finished my descrip-
ton OF Pompeii, that l would be compelled
to keep you waiting so long before push
ing onward to other interesting scenes.
There were many other beauties in Ma
pies which we would gladly have studied,
but circumstances pushed us inexorably
forward, and compelled us to take our de-
parture for Rome, leaving all the charms
of Sorrento, Capri and st. Elmo behind
us; and it was with feeling of regret
that we took our places on the train bound
lost to view, and the last reminder of our
visit, in the shape of the smoking crater
OF old Vesuvius, was not long in following
suit, as we sped ON our way northward.
We passed through fruitful country, and
without the terrible Inconvenience of
railroad restaurant, we were enabled to
purchase our supplies directly from the
natives, who always appeared at the sta
tions bountitully supplied with wine, fruit
and roasted chickens, which were disposed
of at ridiculously low prices. The wine
of the country, a red wine of very good
quality, was brought in thin TASKS, which
must have been very cheap, since pint of
wine, flask and all, only cost about ten
cents. Under these circumstances, it is
not to be presumed that the inner man was
allowed to suffer to any serious extent.
On our way we passed Capua, the re-
nowned city, which proved the terminus
of Hannibal's triumphant march. Only
a few ruins of the old city are left, but
the few are interesting, and we were sorry
to pass by without examining them. Here,
also, tlourished the famous school for the
training OF gladiators, and here began the
famous revolt of those muscular heroes, led
by Spartacus, the Thracian, and which cost
the republic several years Of expensive war.
fare. | have often doubted whether Spar
tacus was as eloquent as the frequent quo
tations from his speeches which we hear in
schools and colleges might lead us to be-
lieve.
The old original Capua was deprived of
all civic rights by the Roman republic, on
account of its alliance with Hannibal, and
only regained its former glory after Caesar
restored them. The modern town, CON
tanning about 10000 inhabitants, is insig-
nificant in comparison to the ancient city,
which is estimated to have contained 3OO,-
900.
AS we sped on we saw Monte Casino,
perched up on its lofty seat. The Monas-
terry, founded by st. Benedict in 500, con-
tains one of the most valuable libraries in
Italy. The library has always been famous
for its MSS. and rare old editions, relics
of the infancy OF printing. The monks
have been recognized as the opponents of
advanced and liberal ideas among the
Italian ecclesiastics. Monte Casino has
been suppressed as monastery, along with
the rest of its class, by the new Italian gov
eminent, but is being continued as an edu-
cational establishment. 1t is said to have
now about $50 students.
The sun sped westward as we went
northward, and before we came in sight of
Rome night had closed in and put an end
to our observations for the day. The rest
was rumble, jar, halt, II carriage, hotel
and bed room the last of which was
most acceptable, as all will be prepared to
admit who have enjoyed the luxury of
nine hours ride ON an Italian rail road.
Though our curiosity was great, we made
no attempts at sightseeing that night, but
resigned ourselves to sleep, to dream of the
wonders which we were to see in the morn
ing.
AS we looked out on the little square in
front of our hotel, it was hard to imagine
ourselves in the city of Romulus and
Remus, of Caesar or Nero. The scenes, the
people, the carriages, were those of mod
ern Italian city. But refreshed by good
nights sleep and substantial breakfast,
we started out on general tour of obser-
vatien. Wo found many who were only
too anxious to assist us in our nvestiga-
tions, for u consideration; but declining
all offers, and trusting implicitly to our
old friend Baedaker, of guide book fame,
we wandered out. We found that the
modern city does not occupy exactly the
site of ancient Rome, most Of the ruins be-
ing in a region Of their own, Neverthe-
less there is a sort of border land, where
historic relics stand in strong contrast to
modern architecture. Thus the Pantheon
is in the modern city; Trojan's Column
peers up through recently laid payements,
and Trojan's Forum, now excavated, is
surrounded by buildings of the nineteenth
century. We found, also, most interest.
ing spot near the Capitoline Hill, where
the accumulated debris of centuries has
concealed all but the summit of the Tar.