The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1877-05-13
AN ACCOUNTABLE RAILROAD.
The "Rise" of St. Marks River
Lake Miccosukie.
THE WAKULLA SPRING.
A Beautiful and Wonderful River
Source.
TALLAHASSEE, Fla, May s. 1871.

y
st. Augustine and the Johns and ockiawaha rivers.
The causo which has retarded the due TO this
region Is the deplorable and perfectly abominabic
nature OF travelling accommodations which are
far worse than the annoyanccs anc hardships OF
stage-coaching In the good old days which Dickens
has especial delight In frequently descro-
Ing IL strange that the State OF Florida, hold
ing . rank among mighty and prosperous Common
weaiths should be .ar the rear oil civilization.
Tho burdens and ravages OF war were certainly less
trehtfui here than in south Carolina, Virginia and
Georgia; and yet these States to-day far ahead OF
her in material comforts and facilities, as they
are in the development OF healthy political SPIRIT
which would hero be considered unworthy Of
Southrops. II Foridians ever possessed any energy
OF character they have lost H. for wherever have
gone have evidences Of lack OF thrift which IS
~ painful to one bred Yankee traditions would
, solecism be TO the judgment OF pedant
rHg TOURISTS BUGBEAR.
Tho greatest example Of this deficit is perhaps the
railroad which connects Jacksonville with Chattahoo
Chez 1t affords the only direct link transportation
between the Eastern coast the great routes 20 the
North and those leading 10 st. Louis, New Orleans
and Texas Here lies in dsgracefuy abortve
dition great enterprise, which might and OF reces
sity would rival the between New York and
Chicago If conn lctcd and integenty managed At
present desire point out for the OF the world
as tho worst railroad that It was ever contempt
ible luck to pass The torture inflicted on me
was far than that ever suffered corduroy
turnpike tho backwoods, and am inclined to think
that the devil himself could not devise better pen
for pleasure-seekng tourists, and have doubt
that in most cases induces profanity which In.
sures his power over the victims They, however
few; for no ono from inclination will trust his
bones his temper and his soul TO this rafting man
trap second time.
a LIST APPROXIMATIONS.
Aside from the dangers OF the route which due
70 split rails rotten ties and wheezy and supcran
nuatcd engines, the accommodations gwen passengers
inside the cars neither cleany, comfortable
select They reek with tho filthy
sence and the sickcnng fumes .oi tobacco
The seats hard and bare. At your
elbow you may chance to see either mean looking
''crackcr" odorous negro whose consciousness
OF hts political rights renders him ootrusive and i'm.
pudent. II tho Northerner lucky escape
from either OF these nightmares phe latter bcug
phatcay of nocturnal affinity in color at least, no
may perchancc fall victim the conversation of
three veritabc Southrons. AT first II may
afYablc and well intended, but in due course newt
able vein OF acrmony will creep in, especially directed
against the prejudices of tho listener Thus he is
bereft OF moral compaccncy well as OF physical
comfort Tho train shakes, quvcrs, trembes, bumps
and bumps unknown distractions and
sways like ship The windows
are not tight, and cindcrs, dust and smoke
permeate your clothing and abide there,
besides fing your nostrs tickling your throat and
starting a brny flow from your eyes Despite The
liberal ventilation the air is horribly close ana foul
Your cheek palcs with ianiness and nausea; your
eyes heavy with torturing headache; your
apparel Is soaked, SO to speak with dust and fumes
and your hands and face besmeared with 1t long before
the moment for release from he journey arrives.
"rIAr uyrRoFirABLE."
You pass through some OF the --LATEST. most monot-
and desolatc scenery the continent, not
ccptng the desert OF Arizona and the
OF Dakota, before you al Elavc, the home of
Governor Drew, the river famed from the tender
though homcly song
Way down upon dc Suwanec Ribbcr,
Far FAR away,
Deres where my heart IS turning ebbcr,
Derc's where do ole folks stay.
l, may we'll be believed as it Is asserted. that tho
author OF the words tho Suwanec River
for believe only old negro, born ana whipped on
its banks, could long to revisit them. But Mon
ticsIo westward let the traveller rub Justify the foul
window by which he sits and his eyes may be re-
frcsned with different IT he will stop that
inanimate but self-imporant village and drive to
MIccosrEig,
whose banks are qnile historic he will rid himself
for the time OF the fumes OF lis unpleasant travelling
quarters and enjoy Bit OF scenery which will quite
refreshing after many miles OF weary progress
through the lowlands OF the South. The bluffs
looking lake the site oil a village OF tho
Miccosukics where the followers OF Dc Soto cncamped
During the celebrated Seminole General jackson
fought there bloody battle and still may be seen
many OF the bullets with which his dntocks were
charged Embedded In the anccut Ilvcoaks and
China trees which cast lordly shade the
spot Tho landscape Is quito, combination Of iorest
ned, hill and vale, in the midst Of which nostlcs, in
She cool lustre of its amber surface the prcttest
OF water have In the Interior OF Florida The
shores graced by oaks and magnolias under which
ahayday picnic occurs year OF the beauty and
gausntry Of the lao counties
KEaAPkABLg WHIRLPOOL.
Near the lake there Is a singular whirlpool sink or
eddy, which believed to have con Lection
with the Internal regions; bu. experience Demon
stratcd the Of such superstition IN Ingenious
young man painted his name upon piece Of timber
and cast 1t into the eddy. It disappeared low days
afterward 1t was seen near Newport. nca;ing down
with tho current OF the st. Marks River by several
0shcrmcn. The lake, be II known. has superficial
outlet II is said by the provincial sages tha, the
81. Marks derives IRON the lake waere ana THIS Is
one Of the wonders Of Middle Florida.
LOST
There is, however. another marvel near tho lake.
Many years ago corncld in vicinity disappeared
one night with great noise and there renamed
stead only pond OF waicr-in other words "sink."
In 1859 the neighboring planter awoke one morning
10 ind that tho pond bad entirely gone and the mid
die OF the vacated bed immense hillocks OF
sand twelve or fifteen icct high. Fish in great mum.
bors wero found lying in the fields for distance
around II they had been b. strange
disturbance. Tho Inhabitants believe that sort OF
volcanic eruption occurred At night the pond
full Of water and In tho morning dFy. Tho Iii
locks are said 10 have gradually disappeared aud
wafer after many months, again lliea the banks.
TALLAHASSEE.
Again you consisn yourself 10 The doubtful convey
auce OF the railroad. rhe journey carries YOU
more rolling landscape. You enter What ndi
viduals have been pleased to call Piedmont Florida,