The Portland daily press., 1877-11-08
From Harper's Bazar.1
New York Fashions.
cHILpREN's CLOTHES.

The French models for chiidren's and young
girls clothes are far simpler than these de-
signed in this country and are therefore in better
taste hence the irst-class furnishing houses send
abroad for pattern dresses for the little people,
just as they do for those worn by their moth
ers. The princesse dress, all in one from the
shoulders down, is still the foundation upon
which various dresses ara designed, but the new
fancy is to introduce pleats and yokes 10 the
waists, Carrick capes on the shoulders, and
kilt skirts, or else mock kilt skirts that do not
extend to the waist, yet show at the lower
edge of the over-garment just as real kits co.
The incest bourettes, basket cloths and cameps-
hair with silk are used in these dresses. The
colors are even more quiet than formerly, the
greater number being gray, drab or moss green,
with only now and then pipings and sasbes of
blue or red silk. Dark navy blue is still worn,
though not as fashionable as it has been. The
trimmings are braids, buttons and pipngs.
The iaunty novelty for little girls, and one
destined to be as popular as sailor suits were ia
the Fritz blouse Dress This is very long
pleated basque or blouse, with a yoke. yet cut
double-breasted and having two rows of bullet
shaped buttons down the front. The side
forms of the back extend even longer than the
pleated parts, and form square pockets with flaps
la
as visible, is a pleated kilt, but is joined
to smoothly fitting yoke that covers the hi ps
plaiDly, as it is stylish TOR the child's figure to
look slender. Most of the yokes and pie sted
waists. are fastened in front Some have
no yoke 10 front. but are cut with double
Louis Qninzs vests, one of silk, the other Of
wool. When the pleats are belted at all. the
belt crosses the pleated parts only not the sides
of the waist.
The newest princesse dresses have pleats,
uh oh In he 1;xrx fr1x 81.
back of the neck to the top of the kilt-pleating
which is still inserted low down across the back
forms and headed By sash and bow. Still
other prncesse dresses have little vests or else
merely plastrons of velvet or silk let in. Some
times the upper part of the princesse dress is
cut off, divided into slender pieces that are
lined with lighter shade and made into long
loops through which sash ribbon is passed
around the figure. This is pretty in dark blue
cashmere, showing pale blue liuing in the loops
and pale blue silk sash tied behind 10 large
bow of long, soft loops. Among the new i'm
portations is the Mignonette costume of very
shaggy gray camePs hair, with pleated or
tucked princesse back, double breasted front,
and brown soutache for trimming Another is
the Muscovite dress of gray anc red bourette,
with basque back and doube-breasted prin-
cesse front. A Louis Quioze vest iress is of
r.>ie oourvtsS, with light bfu0 silk vest
Notified fabrics are much used for these little
dresses, aud the incest of them have inside the
skirt pleated flounce of white muslin edged
with torchOn lace
The new trimming for these graceful dresses
is square or block-shaped braid, broader than
soutache, and standing out squarely above the
surface. Plaia soutache, but wider than that
used for braiding designs, is placed in parallel
rows on side-pleatings two or three rows near
together designating the top of the inch-wide
pleatipgs On other peatings after they are
hemmed deep slender scalop is described in
each pleat with this braid. Cuffs or sleeves
collars and O0ckpfs n0vpra6 hv four or foo
rows of this braid, that is laid Ia curls as close
together as possible. Round bulet-shaped
buttons-yet with eyes in the m,ddle-have be-
side each of them long slender mock button
hole made of wide soutache braid; row of
these is up each side of the Breton vest down
the. two side forms of the back, across the
pockets, cuffs and collar. Mothers can also
make the snowy plaques that modernize the
dresses OF last season BY winding rows around
and around of braid, until they are as large as
the new silver atrade dollar. These trim the
back or the front as showily as the buttons of
ivory, shell or bone that are now worn, but
which cannot always be furnished in colors to
match the trimming
sacque cloaks, called the Carrick, the MARQUEE
and the Creedmoor. They are very long, half
hitting, doube-breasted, and the newest omit
the middle seam in the back-as indeed some
new models for ladies' cloaks debut have
long side forms with the seams beginning on
the shoulders One, two or three small round
Carrick capes trim the shoulders. Most such
garments have straight double-breasted
fronts with two rows of small buttons.
The cloths used are soft and flexible, yet
half an inch thick. Drab and gray are fa-
vorte colors, and many of these have blue or
scarlet on the wrong sides; such reversible
cloths are sold for 81 or $8 yard. Lovely lit
tie gray basket cloth sacques and princesse
great-coats are shown, and among the novelties
are b0urette cloths with tufts of rough thread
For misses cOata Of cloth
merely bound on the edges With braids. The
new listers for school wear have three Carrick
capes, and also three belts strapped across the
back, rather more for ornament than to con-
fine the back.
LINGERIE.
At the French modistes' many beautiful
things are seen in the lingerie importations
The made-up sets neariy all have deep cuffs
that may be worn outside as cuffs or else at
tached to sleeves and worn as under-sleeves
These come in the finest torchon laces, both
plain white and edged with color, for morn
ing and general wear, while more dressy ones
are made of the new patterns of Valeneiennes
the popular duchesse. point lace, and the new
church lace or irish poiut. The latter is very
artistic and effective but is merely sheer mus
lin cut out in designs and embroidered on the
edges with button-hole stitch Deep SQUARE
collars, or else Breton vests of this church lace
are worn with the broad cuffs. New cravat
bows are leaves CT tabs of duchesse lace laid
over color and trimmed with loops and long
hanging ends of very narrow ribbon. Others
are very prettily formed of fine small handker-
chiefs folded double (without cutting) and the
trimmed corners are laid IN fatty pressed pleats,
Ingenious ladies take their fine lace collars that
have gone out Of fashion and form cravat bows
aud jabots of them. Fichus of Valenciennes
lace and of Paris muslin are made long and
slender, with the muslin shirred closely at in
tervals; they are worn straight down to the
edge of the basque, or else merely to the waist
line. Neckerchiefs to be worn outside of win
ter cloaks, especially Of fur cloaks, are squares
Of Paris muslin doubled in ee-cornered
shape, and edged with wide lace, either round
point or duchesse point. The breakfast caps
are not changed in shape but ara more fully
trimmed than formerly.