The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-09-21
Correspondence of Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Although too early in the season for wraps
made up with some reference to them. The
designs in wool and silk costumes provide for
some kind of outside wrap of the same material
which may be worn later in the season; and at
no time has fashion so leniently considered
every type of face and form. With the cos
tunes, including over-skirts and upper drapery,
sacques and jackets of various lengths are
shown, none, however being very short, while
every possible variety Of cut and trimming is
displayed. A wool and silk costume trimmed
with bands and buttons had jacket fitting
closely in the back and loosely in front, cut
with long front pieces, the sides being cut
short and square. the back similar to the front.
From the side pieces straps of silk buttoned
down into the dress, while ths back was trim
med with downward straps and buttons, the
front to correspond. Some costumes have
long, plain jackets very little trimmed aud
others have silk jackets in one color, which
may be worn with any dress that harmonzes
The most popular form is the simplest--a raod-
ifcation of last years long sacque, although
that will also be used to a certain extent. Until
late in the season the polonaises need no out
side covering, unless it be one of the light
tichus or the cossed Dolman. The DoInan of
last year is altered this season to more be-
coming garment-closer seams, longer front
pieces and more clinging effect. 1t will hard
ly be SO popular wrap as formerly.
Few long sleeveless circulars will be worn
but beautiful wrap answering the same pur-
pose is made with four seams, the back slight.
ly gored in to cling to the figure, the side seams
from the neck down the shoulder curving
gracefully while long, narrow sleeves are set in
low enough down to give good effect to stout
figure. This wrap will be made up in Sicili-
ennes and plain or repped silks, armures and
matelesses being also fashionable for such gar
ments; fringes and heavy galloons will be
used for trimmings until the winter season.
when fur will be employed. Long plain sacques
of silk or the repped and figured woods will be
worn until late in the season, and if made with
vegard for the figure, are becoming tot nearly
every one. Shorter silk sacques will be moder-
ately fashionable, long Louis Quinze being
one of the new Suggestions
1t has become an established fact in the FEM
mime mind that no wardrobe is complete with
out costume Of black silk; but this season
decided novelties appear. Laws which ruled
supreme Year ago have vanished, and a pref
ty combination of the antique and modern is
the result The leading principle seems TO be
that no black costumes will be worn. Unique
ideas for these dresses are coveted. While
simplicity will be found with richness in ma
terlal, all manner of caprces govern the de-
signs employed by leading houses Jet, black,
and clair de tttne lead in trimmings, while the
most costly and beautiful velvet and satin gal
looms are introduced. The combination of
black silk and velvet will be popular. Bro
cades, fine pattern damasses, and faconns silks
of all descriptions will also be combined. The
new facOnL6 or figured silks are extremely
pretty, the plain ground having figure in bro
caded relief, loop, or diamond, or cone small
enough to be unostentatious, and yet giving a
dressy appearance to the plai n silk. These be-
gin at 50, and are much more fashionable than
the damasses of last season. A closely figured
brocade with satin finish is shown at So, and
combines best with velvet. The larger pat
terms are not worn, except in plain Costumes
where durability and economy govern ele-
gance. Some such figured silks in gooe quality
begin at S1.75, and combine best with plain
silk, velvet being too heavy for a contrast
Plain silks are shown in all prices and varie-
ties. The Bonnets' and Lyons silks, leading
the French markets, begin at 50 and go up to
81, fine quality being show1 at $3.50 The
family silks, which have durability and de-
gree of richness in texture, begin at 81 so, the
good qualities at $275 being very popular;
while American silks, with or without lustre,
are shown as low as 81 in full width.
Lace bonnet strings and scarfs and going out
of favor, narrow silk and satin ribbons taking
their place. These may be tied in small bow
at the left side.
Pure white linen collars and cuffs will be
wider, and in some instances turned back all
aroand.
Gauze embroidered trimmings in rich colors
and designs will be used on evening silks, and
are shown at from So to $40. Velvet leaves on
gauze foundation and satin flowers worked on
velvet are among the novelties. Heavier gall
looms with stripes of velvet between the figures
are shown tringes being made to correspond.
Belts will be worn with street costumes dur
ing the fall