The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1877-10-28
IMPROVED TIG.LEAvEs.
Paris Fashions trimmings, buttons and
Lace-The Latest p ylc i'm MATS
and HeadEear.

French journal says: AS regards cut, the
tight fourreau, with elongated waist behind
and flat princess In 'front.' continues TO be the
polonaise most Ia favor, but the loopings and
management of the lower drapery behind are
SO very varied that each dress shows o differ.
ent combination of fold The new buttons
are OF costly pearl, or they are rainbow. The
latter are made up OF the same substance as
ming for light cloth, woolens, brooches and
other fancy stuffs is neither beaded nor
in any way extravagant. Turreted seal
lops and lanees are cut out OF the material,
and then bordered all round with SILK
a ap heading over killed flounces; and If the
piping Is of bright color, and If there are
a few bows to match, this ornament is as
pretty as more costly decorations. Beautiful
birds are much worm and NO. only on al
grasshoppers and beetles are mounted for
paletot buttons. The newest floral invention
Is rubber-grass coated over with chemical
preparation which initiates bronze, Silvery
ner, The suitable fur for this season is otter,
and much Is done with plucked and unpluck,.
ed beaver. Otter, In Its raw state, Is fri5zed
| In the style OF astrakan. and when. prepared
| it is q soft fur, and made OF both kinds In
caps for travelling, having scarlet or Dieit or
bow on one side. In accessories there. are
silk stockings beaded on the instep: fehu
plastrons ornamented with chenille lace and
sequins. The cothurn shoe and boot have
| been worn through the cold and damp al
ready experienced in Paris. The spare collar
has grown in size since the last report
| TRIMMINGS AND BUTTONS.
| Embossed velvet cut in bands, Is used with
velvet on black silk dresses; for dressy oGca-
sions net scarfs, embroidered in sunset or
| rainbow" beads, are put on black silks as
draperies. Uncurled ostrich and flat trim
mings head chenille fringes are intermixed
with Milan buttons, and as fine jet is much in
favor it is literally mixed In these, and passe-
menterie headings. Bands Of bourette and
moss embroidery, in which light shades are
seen on dark backgrounds are used for heavy
materials Silk galloons come In two dark
shades shot with bright tints Of coral, garnet
or amber for bourrette fabrics. Pipings oil
silk are very popular In contrasting colcrs, or
in some light shade matching the threads in
the material, which form colored designs.
| Much attention Is given to buttons; large flat
| ones are used on the tabs or directoire backs,
with simulated button holes, and smaller ones
on the waist. Natural and burnt pearl. with
carved or polished surfaces, or with fine cut
| steel centres, or inlaid with ivory, are much
| seen on mixed suits; the Burgos pearl Is opal
escent. Horn, either French or real buffalo
and tortoise shell inlaid, are also for heavy
| materials; while buttons In crochet worked
with steel or other beads come to match hand
some fringes.
PARTISAN HEAD-aEAR.
The shape of the hats worn in Paris was so
uncertain up to the 1st of October that 1t was
difficult to state which Of all the new styles
we learn from Paris fashion authority, two
of the shapes sent in have been generally ap-
proved of. one. premier empire and the other
q t0gne OF very elaborate work, and appro-
pirate for full dress occasions. The premier
empreis revival of shape which would, a
few years ago, even under the second empire,
have been called hideous, but 1t is now thought
charming. The crown Is higher behind than
in front; it sits closely 10 the ears at the back.
is low made In front. where plumes
are placed, with bows or birds, and the brims
are large enough to deserve the epithet of
caIeehes. The toque is half-turban and half
cap. 1t is embroidered with pearl and glass
beads, with clair de l,oae and rainbow jet, and
gold braids. The handsomest poult velvet
and satin are employed; the flowers are
mounted with velvet foliage while a Prince
OF Wales plume Is placed on one side. Che
hats, and marrow ribbons are bound In sheafs
on felt. All ribbons are reversible, that is,
double-faced, and satin is chiefly employed in
the moss or absinthe Shades, graduating from
walls for very narrow streamers in lunches
and ribbon-knots. A so-called love- knot is
made for the neck, as tie.
FULL DRESS.
For full dress" the corsage is always cut
low in the neck, either back or front or high
in the back and low in the front, but in oil
cases high on the shoulders. The shape of
the front varies from square to or heart
shape, and il desired may be filed in with
crepe lsse folds Of platfngs or ruches or
lace. The sleeves are never long enough to
reach the hand, and in some cases are left out
entirely, and fall of lace reaches to where
the short sleeve usually comes. Those who
dislike to leave the arm entirely bare use
some transparent fabric for sleeves, and
either trim Them at the elbows or wrists, Or
hn ho pIG IF or ribbon md Of in,
tervals from the shoulders to the bottom of
the sleeves. Ii elbow sleeves are filed In with
lace Or illusion, and a band of black velvet
worn around the arm near the elbow 1t will
made with long, narrow trains, cut square,
pointed or rounded into the peacock form.
CoLoRs
For street wear the leading color is dark
shade of green, which shows tinge of yell
low when held to the light. 1t Is sometimes
called moss green, and In the new tufted and
knitted fabrics Is .combind with lines and
dots of raw silk, shot in dashes of yellow,
cardinal red. blue, white, or lighter green
Seal brown and navy blue hold their own,
but both have been so long and well worn
that change is welcome, and this beautiful
dark green Is universally becoming and CON
trasts admirably with the rich shades of
crimson or the more delicate ivory and tilluel.
Co1FFUREs.
The greatest number of coiffures come
quite low at the back, Or quite high, and for
the former styles "Catogan" braids or the
casional additions are ' made by short curis
placed in some graceful way The demand
for finger puffs amounts almost to a rage
and in variety of sizes. A pretty style is to
wear too large puifs, placed in upright posi-
ton at the back of the head forming the en-
tire dressing with the addition OF smaller
ones at the top A broad head may require
three puffs at the back
FURS.
Dark furs will remain in favor for street
wear, but for evening, chinchlla, ermne and
other light furs will be in demand Seal skin
sacques are shaped to the figure, have as
much additional length as borders will give
them, and are finished In front with passe-
menterie buttons and loops. The re-adoption
of light furs will give great delight to owners
of ermine and other kinds Of light furs
THE EMPRESS DRESS.
Among recent importatons from Paris is