The Portland daily press., 1877-03-16
From Harpef's Bazaar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING BONNETS.

The new bonnets are quite small of them
selves, but are given ample size by their abun-
dant trimmings. The capote, with soft droop-
ing crown, and the Normandy with high pointed
crowns are most often seen. More distir-
gushed looking than these are the broad
square crowns with close dropping fronts;
poir ted Mother Goose crowns have disappeared
Tuscan bralds of deepest straw tints lace
straws, Milans and Leghorns are the choicest
novelties; fine French chips are also largely
imported. and are liked because they are light,
soft and pl'able; but the love for the novel and
scarce will make the yellow Italian brads
most fashionable. Silk bonnets, plain on the
frame or else gathered and shirred as capotes
and Normandys, are also among the choice se-
ections. White bonnets trimmed with very
light colors are the rule for sraws; the eXcep-
tons are black chips trimmed with the new
light shades of yellow, green or red. Black
lace bonnets o plain or figured net laid plainly
on the frame are among the most elegant Of
the impo,titions.
The brms of straw b1hnets are now of fanci-
full patterns that do not need binding or piping
for ornament. The crown bears most of the
trimming. If regular Normandy crown of
silk is not used, the straw crown is lefr intact,
and bias gros grain is arranged on one side or
both to give the effect OF the pointed Norman
broadly folded piece of silk, while on the oppo-
site land usually the left) side are flowers
massed as thick as possible, beginning in the
front and extending down ID the back of the
bonnet 1t is not unusual to see eight, ten and
even twelve roses without foliage clustered to-
gether in this way. These roses are large and
fully blown, and may be all dark red Agrippi-
mas, or else pale yellow Isabelle sprouts or the
golden Marshal Neil, or perhaps they are
shaded from pale rose pink to the deepest coral
red, or more often still they are shaded 10 show
the three fashionable tints-Mandarin yellow
pink coral, and bright famine de sVesuye
When roses are not used, there is side gar
land in which some one flower predominates,
either buttercnps, Marguerites, deutzia or
Vloiets ;or else thick wreaths of natural grasses
clover, and leaves made of rubber, extepding
down the side. When the half garlaLd is not
used there is boquet OF flowers just on top,
and the new cache peigne or comb OF flowers is
arranged across the back at the end of the
crown; this is sometimes merely three roses in
straight row across the bonnet, while 10 9TH
er cases it is thick vine with fringe of buds
dropping Cd the chatelane. In bouquets flow
ers OF strongly contrasting colors are associated
as blue forget me-nots with yellow buttercups
and deep red roses; mignonette, from its per-
tect tilleul green shades is combined with al
most every flower.
When ribbon is used for trimming it is from
two to three inches wide, and is usually satin
on one side and gros grain on the other. 1t is
arraDged'in great clusters of loops with ends
indented in points massed on top of the bonnet,
is plain around the crown, and is crossed behind
to form strings, which are either streamers at
the back or strings to tie in front, according to
the wearerS fancy
Many of the finest bonnets have curtain
bands of the braid behind, and the crown is
SIMPLY trimmed with similar band or braid
over an inch in Width, piped on each edge with
satin, and shaped into small bow on the cur
tain band. 1t is in these fine pipings that satin
appears more often than in larger masses in
crowns and BOWS, as it is rather heavy for sum-
mer bonnets. Velvet is scarcely used at all.
There is very little face trimming in any of
the bonnets, yet the greatest variety is seen
there. Thas inside some is O soft wreath made
OF the crushed petals of roses torn from their
stems. In another is an inch band of founda-
ton plainly covered with satin of some becom-
ing color in which gold ornament is pinned.
Others have full puff of satin or of gros grain.
Many have tulle ruche with only color given
By the silk lining the brim. Three rows of
loops OF satin ribbon an inch wide is another
face trimming. Que milliner crowds ten roses
of three shades inside these close Cottage brims
There are Quakef-shaped bonpets absolutely
without face trimming. Others are capotes
with two frllls OF straw lace almost as fine as
thread lace, and between these IS SATIN bau-
deau OF tileul, hamme de Vesuve, or other
'tyllsh shade. Twists of silk, knots and bows.
with haif of one color aud half of contrasting
snade. are also used, but, like tulle ruches,
these are not new.
4ueE6 dT6 uO uOTS uODOIOu0 DOQQeLS snow
log several shades of one color. From TWO to
t'uc colors appear on every bonnet, and marked
contrasts are seen. Thus rose pink and reseda
are used to trim an elegant chip bonnet Au-
other, trimmed with peacb-colored silk, has
also coral and Vesuvius peoples. A Tuscan
braid, trimmed with pale moonlight blue silk,
has half wreath of yellow cowsllps dropping
from bouquet OF forget-me-nots damask
roses. and Ivy leaves. A Leg horn bonnet has
tllenl trimming with masses OF mIgnouette
VtSnVIuS nd M.roporitoS A
chip bonnet has ''old gold' satin shrred on the
brim, aud garland of natural green grasses
aud leaves made of rubber. Black-fgured
Brussels net bonnets are trimmed with Vesu-
vius red satin, or with lilleul grasses ard mlgn-
onttte, and more often still with buttercups,
yellow roses, jobquils, and other flowers of the
new mandarin shade.
Among the mos: popular thin stuffs for trim
mings are gauzes with bars or stripes of plush
or OF chenille. These are newer than the Mex
icaine gaozes, aud are used for trimmings, and
also for wells. The veil is passed over the face
and front of the bonnet, crossed behind, and
ted under the cnin, and is SAID to be in Egyp-
tan style One of the richest trimmings for
tue Leghorn bonntts is embroidered gauze,
much OF which has cheuile-work upon It,
This IS similar TO the trimmings imported last
So son for evening dresses. IL is passed around
the crown, and forms strings. The ornaments
for bonnets are of polished yellow gilt in
Renaissance designs, or of steel mixed with
pearl or with gilt. Small brooches clasps,
rings, and buckles. are most used; but these
are all very carefully employed by the best
milliners, as they make a bonnet have tawdry
look when they are profuse.
Round hats have narrower brims than those
of last season, and are less pronounced in
shape. The Egyptian gauzs veil or scarf is
used for trimming shade hats for the country.
IL is very pretty when chosen of cream-color
and caught up with carnations or poppies
Other black chip hat. from Virot's are trimmed
with bands of gros graiD, nodding black ostrich
tips, and single fine ornament Of old gold or