Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1877-07-07

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nations of white with tinted muslin. pale
cgie du idn amber, and gray or wood brown.
The back Of the skirt alternsted in narrow
plisses, very hne, so f1ne as 10 have crimped
| appearance. The sides OF front OF the skirt
aliernsted In pufingS OF the two mater ais
and also the sleeves.
| Mr.. Worth's Prf,lceSSe dresses are cut as
ffthceSse al the back but not in front: aud he
is gradually abandoning the en;irely Hat
style, and introducing more fullness at the
| slice, and drapery AZ the back. What his
| next success will be he does not vet know
himself bur he is an able general. cool, col
lected, impassive, with no nonsense, no airs,
| no preiension in his manners, simply and
| apparently master OF the situation-a posi-
| tlon fairly and fully earned by understand
| ing and being equal To its experiences. / had
| more respect for him after seeing him tn n
| before, for he evidently makes no effort TO
| produce an impression, ard 10 is only dim
| cult 10 see i'm because time is too precious
| 10 waste on bOres and curiosity hunters.
| DRESSING FOR THE BoIs.
| Ore OF the charmisg things to do in Paris
! IL 10 driNe To the BCtS dc BOta1g1ir. and be
| tween the hours OF : and y. IN. ali the beauty
| ard gaiety of Paris IAN life is to be So IN there
| The ride IN the BoiS l. a very different thing
iiem Rotten Row" The park, for one
| left as nearly as possible as nature made 70.
| How IL has escaped the usual rectangular
| and triangular cutting up and the inevitable
| adornmeEtS of plaster AID marble il a puZ-
| Zle. But one finds IL best 10 enjoy good thing,
| without teing too curious, anu 80 every one
| eI joys the B"is.
| litIt. a. tt-tNtltfes Nll6E lfANlllts lafl~Iflfl
| ladies lmany OF them) wear light, tinted SILK
| and even white dresses. which add great
| llVei ness and beauty To the scene a a spec
| tacie. When they re ready for their drive
| they are evidently ready for dinner az home
| or elsewher-, and his Ia accordance with the
| instincts OF the French for economy. No
| wealthy Partisan, not even one OF the yrItoe
| danes, would think of indul ging In the num-
| Ter Of expensive tOilpttes spOrte1 by one OF
| our iaShlOnables at Saratoga. Nor do they
| 50 readily follow the caprces OF Fashion.
| y BdrIkian ia high - 1 m Toll ha
| her few elegant tOtie'ies prepared early ia the
| season, and a. much in accordance with Ger
| tain permanent accessories OF her costume
| tsucL as articles Of lace as the eNigencies OF
the prevailing mode. These acquired, The
subject Is dismls from her mind. which
| is occupied with The cares OF her establish
ment. her children, and the duties of her
| social life, which are as wearing. although
| less comprehensive than those OF the English
woman of means and position.
| The weak point about real French style ia
dress seems TO me TO be color. Toe diversity
| looks well seen en- DsdSse, but in Individual
| instances / observe glaring incongruitieS.
Find perfectly harmonious and purely
toned toilette, and the wearer IL really al
| ways an American. or course there are
many French women who dress beautifully,
ana their cultivation OF form and adherence
| TO certain well thought out ideas furnish an
example TO the rest ofthe world.
| But American women have taught them
| something In regard to color; at least In re-
gard 10 the preservation OF the unities OF tint
ard tone, and their significance is applied 10
special purposes.
| FRENCH MOURNING.
The French, for example. hs no concep-
| ception of "mourning" as the term is under
| stood to apply in New York 10 the proper
| garments 10 express regret and affection ior
| deceased II lative. IN New York a mourn
| ing costume must be dull, rich, sombrey
quiet in tone, and as elegant as heavy silk,
| Grape, or cloth can make II, but without
| gloss, brightness, or color. A French mo-
| oiste cannot understand this, and will insist
| upon trimming 'mourling' with satin and
jet, and adding purple and violet flowers 10
| the bonnet. i know OF two mourning cos
l tunes that were ordered from Paris, one az
| a cost Of 1900 the other 80 francs, both CO
! which Lad TO be disposed o. lone given away,
| the other sold at half price, because %: tue
| shining. glossy trimming, and the order was
| repeated with the strictsSt injunctiols in
| regard 10 these matters. Yet when the dres-
| Ses were SENT a hat which Went win one OF
| them was covered with heavy folds OF satin
| aud lei ornaments, and when reference was
| made 10 the order. the reply was that the
! Instructions Were supposed TO refer 10 the cos
| tune and lot the bonnet.
| Yet this was one OF the finest houses in
| Paris, aid il has been supposed tha' all our
| ileas OF harmony in costume came from this
| fJnr tain head. Perhaps one OF the reasons
! why black, which is so universal a faVorite
| with Us, is so little worn by the wealthy Pa
| risiaE ladies il because il is almost uni
| 1, rm among the common people. Girls and
| women employed in shops and cafes as
| d ressmakers and sewing girls, as better class
| attendants, and nursery g0yer1esSes all
wear black, just as with US the wa tiers az
| hotels and restaurants wear dress coats aud
white ties. The bonneS wear BLACK with
| white caps and white aprons; the govern
esses, black, without the aprons and caps;
the girls in the better class OF shops and
| dfessmaking establishments, long, plain,
trained robes OF black silk, over which man
ties of any kind and style can be seen TO adj
vantage. Naturally, the lady wishes to diff
ferentiate herself from these, and therefore
wears light colors Naturally, also, a water
is scarce, she gets herself up in lovely white
| tOiieffeS Il would my elf.
| DIFFERENCES AND AGREEMENTS.
The general points of agreement between
Paris and New York fashions are many. At
the theater and opera, from the general APP
| pearance of the audience at the Grand Opera
and the Comique Franchise, you might be
AT the Academy OF Music and Booths. Bon
nets or hats are worn, as ladies please. and a
nice walking or visiting dress with light kid
gloves is all that Is required. OF course one
can have box at the opera and go in grand
Costume, but am speaking OF what is es-
sential.
Upon the street those costumes which
make any precautions TO fashion are simpler
and more restricted TO plain Princesse styles
than with US. There are no jackets, but a
little fchu with lace or crepe du caeae is
drawn straight around the shoulders and
| knoited in front. Young girls wear the sim
| plest kind of straw hats ana make no dis
play OF jewelry. Kid gloves embroidered in
| cOlorS, recent y introduced in New York and
supposed to be a French fashion, have not
been seen al Paris, but are displayed in
London, where they originated. TIE styles
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rage in Paris, and the most exquisite art
work of this period is reproduced upon fans
ard pendants and chatelaines.
| Short curls have heen introduced into the
Golf ures, aid instead of the fringe OF hair
across the forehead, il is arranged in long,
| formal spit curls, or IN a row of straight lit
tie curls in The style of Madame Seyigne, OF
| whom by the way beautiful and spirited
| bust appears in the salon, for VIII CHI the
| artist has been medaled.
| PRETTY HOUSEHOLD FASHIONS.
! One OF tie charming and noticeable things
about Paris is the profusion of plants IN
pots, and flowers. The masses OF white,
blue, purple and yellow blossoms make a
picture wherever The eye rests, and ladies'
who .receiye"-aud everybody does receive
that Is nybody, from October until May or
June-are enabled to avail themselves OF
this profusion for the adorpment OF their
rooms az a very slight cost The mode Is TO
contract TO have your rooms supplied with a
given number OF plants for the season, and
these are brought and renewed, the old ones
| being taken away every week. With the
plants are usually brought q couple of
blooming bouquets OF freshly cut flowers,
which look brilliant for the day, while the
plants, OF course. keep always their grave
ness, as they are renewed before they have
| time TO lose their beauty. The cost OF this
l. luxury is only from S25 10 $50 or 3 40 per sea-
| con, according TO quantity required.