The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1877-09-23
TIE HORLD or FASHION.


The day when Paris will yield tho sceptre
OF fashion to New York may not be 80 far dis
tant as the casual observer might suppose.
When tho accom- pshed head OF such house as
that OF A. r. Stewart 4 Co. applies his talents to
matters Of dress and fashion. we have n right
10 expect results. When u great merchant
prince. initiating the example OF kings and their
ministers. and with millions at his command.
begins the work OF employing artists in cos
tune TO design such dresses IA shall meet the
wants and demands OF his countrywomen. we
know tina, he can as surely be the fashion auto
crnt of tho world as ever Colbert Mazarin. and
Richelieu were. To those men France WAS in
debtcd for the transfer OF the sceptro Of fashion
from Venice to Paris. They knew the import
ancc Of fashion in filling the Golfers OF national
treasury. and 50 do our New York Mcdicis.
During the Inst week visitors TO tho costume
rooms Of A. II. Stewart x Co. have been sur
rrs.d to see several short skirt waikiki dresses
II rich matrrials ex.rntcd by such artists as
this house. and in addition TO this they are
shown a portfolio of exquisite aqunrsllos. mod
els Of costumes by IL Ducpuc. a famous dress
" aud exclusively Tor 4. 4. StewGri h Co. These
designs are oi two kim short walking dresses
and dcmi-trainrd carriage dresses. The short
| drrss,'s aro particularly elegant and beautiful.
None hut conscientious student OF costume
would have produced anything like them. They
are all Gabrielles. trimmed with aide plented
| npuuces ut the bottom IN one materiull and
| win pinetfonS. rcNerS, simulated WulstcOats
lbkets. scarf tun's. pockets. bhsques, and
| variety ~ namelcss devices in another fabric
| which give them the appearance ot being com
posed Of two or three Hnparate garments. The
fitness and beauty Of these designs can only be
appreciated by those who have seen them. But
~ fashion Is not apt n be sudden In her
changes. II IL not probable that thoe" short skirt
dresses viii take until the middle or latter
! part OF the season. For we have seen them at
no other house. and oven the prestige OF this
cannot az once create a revolution from sweep
ing trains to short skirts.
AT Met rnprV =. where "A tlrep faya' 0nNninC
attracted lnrgor numbers Of the drvotees Of
| dress and fashion. no snort dresses were seen.
| Among tho uunumberpd elegant costumes on
| exhibition were the follow ng' A dress from
| Worth's pistache-colored silk, with pale rose
| culured wsistCoat embroidered with KAY ilowers
! oil every hue. The basque meets in "A point over
the waistcoat. forming heart shape OF the
| bosom. II tcrrinh IN the back IN loops and
| long pleated sash- ke tails embroidered in gny
coors An ovcrStirt Of white silk net is also
| embroidered in the same manner and edged
| with fly fringe in colors to match the em-
hruderies. The trained underskirt OF pisttche
SIX is bounced with silk poating OF pistache
| sldc plcatng OF rose-colorrd silk. A box pleat-
ing and bias iolls head the upper lounce;
material. ivory silk. The long-trained skirt has
gathered nounce all around. over winch falls
| n lounce of duch,ssc lace. This is headed with
a garland OF orange Nelson's. the breadth
| caught up on one side, Wide sa-hes and loops
| OF the silk in tho back form the drtpsries The
| basque waist has fail OF durh"sse lace at the
! holtOm: the neck ~ heart shaped. and in
trimmed with lace and orange blossoms the
| oi SILK and crepe llsse ruchings and bow Of
! white ribbon.
| variety OF hats and bonncts In new and unim-
| asinahlc shapes and All sorts OF unique trim.
NJ WIS display co. T,,s Pity novelty called
! whichever YOU houSs Ia call IT, IL il lined and
| trimmed with plush. Overths crown waves a Will
! low plum" tipped with chenille" and at the back
aro two ostrich rps. Long tabs 81 du.hcsse
lace How from uuder The brin IN the back. and
under them arc Pin ed str .ues Of sultan red
/ satin ribbon. \ sultan rcd plush face trim
| ming gives lifr and spirit TO the subdncd ton"
Of the pearl gray OF the resi- OF the hat and Its
Iu, this mus ne, h taken as a lyrical hat Of
n Miiin-rs' bay Va New YORK. \ tour Among
, ia" leatl.n. m.iln"rs' establishments. IN iUi-
! lng the departing ht- devoted 20 millinery at
/ VI Crrcry's and - " rt's. revealed wonders IN
| ui" startling variety Of shapes. trimmings. and
| cnntrsSts in color wnich VIII he worn this win
! t"r. Tn" lrotins dark c"lors IN millinery goods
! a. the saa'i's of trcnH' brown ami bronze
/ Aroen. To cn.iNt n these sOmhrc hurs the long
/ ostrich plum. and brown TIE. Which are used
I On nearly all ma. are sAadrd from brown OF
/ bronze green To- uals tiut- of sea foam green
tlnul. rose color. and plstache, color which
! gre nrr-thc yellow mt being Of a more hrassy
hue. Then all IN" l'wsrs. leaves. pendant cat-
kins. chenille hiu-. -. all. or nlarly AL the low
cr millinery IA i..tis sprInei,d over with steel.
or silver ~ < 81. "r ntonr duet Or So, d"l " n
u-. D. tiny urn fastened IN place " ia pms aud
KNOBS slid =. Ia. 's,'s anchors. and al soiis Of
li.,t II pearl ana steel. or any comoination OF
meta. tnat ma, ~ called Tor.
strong contrasts are sought for between the
linn.s aud tle outside trllulnin..s OF Lats. i
florentlnc lrouI' Int VIII hc trimmed with
pail blue satin pu1'd To form ~ hV:lise iars
trimsn"I u, aroaaf to Town VIA i3ntery .i nals
grn'n velvet tsrn leaves. aui shaded hy Osfrl h
tps shading from dark p'starhc 10 -ra-ionm
green. viii be- orA,.ncnicd wltn two large
ltpse"n gold h'.ll l.ns. AMI the ,@,e trimn inss
bush rose ON onn @.,1e. aud roSr-c"l orod satin
Strings placed under the trim n the back. An
other bonnet hae tnr Scl'yt nr4m al in two di-
raily IN ironti' permit the scarf u pla-h
which forms the face trimming 10 pass through.
Another has "a d.urrssson IN one side Il the
hrim; IN f4,t % plcatt.hen in This hat looks
as II ii WAS intended 10 b. Worn with q co.ifurs
Of hair parted on one side. 4 rose II plnred
undcrite hrim Just over the iorehrad- ana an
hluris around uud,r The rose.
| tOroLAt bruins are revived. and on them mp.
pekr ~ kinds oi nrL.Il" NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Of
moonlight ~ Oa"ds ipn4luns. ana hat i.aih er
ornHmcnts hrun1' be tics. and leaves AMI low
yar dust. Al fhrirh's ON Eighth avenue. We
saw tn largest quantity ANA 2reat - variety Of
M ~ - sA'., ing d',.-Ilns i'ntiy. ne
this house are also uarti fEdriy I'M THIS s'nson.
lh'5 axe in endless variety AMI remarkably
IL l. T Stewards cloak department are found
SON" stcihtns nn'elil'r IN ~ quo iolWans and
l0n,, Trench ,a.q0, g, ma4ic Of himaiaya moose.
80 terrier. ne reason WHY these rough cloth
,lo,hs 4r' 50 : "uiilui ~ because thry ar "a
| th's are tAs moe they are admired. Ia con-
itust 90 tho" rough Wouihol-wraIs are some
elegant things w. stairs made from models by
l"rs.Un. artists, designed especially Tor the
house Of Stewart m, are heavy Seilcnne,
uunnssce, and mn'caasre SILK. ani trimmed 90
cN'9si with rl'h gllloons passcinenterics
seeded vain moonlight let, plain velvet and
embossed velvet bands with iringcs. buttons
and Gigrtlip - an I'm ncW and rich p,,tcrus uui
frequently seeded III inoOnliglt Jet AMI amber
beads.
Some Of MtCroery's cloaks are also very
handsome and original Our readers must hc
content with the dos riltious Of two Of them;
lrst q dullran mdntis OF very heavy diagonal
rrrpea biacA silk, trimmed with border of
missed peacock and ostrich feathers. below
| winch fails heavy lring ot orimp braid, moss
silk. and amber beads; pa -erloni ric oIna-
lnrula IN tine back. VITA drop tas,ris 10 match
the fringe, Sc'und, long French sacuue ~
henvy coakin SIR, hnrd with silk. and faced
with malrassco silk in front. turned over IN
rnVers ca each side. forming sirliL.te "a u, X L.
The bottom l., grnlri "ith si!h aud chenille
AiXed STIMULATING a tun!e or pc. nalsc.
Fighting shy.iers.
Superintendent Nall.n: s'nt a note to tho