, 1877-06-20

|
| ftophet with lIbcra'tty and even cordfa'fty.
| tns onl5 pause tnat VIC made On the journey
20 IIeolhona "as at INC ,nstRnthtant town Of
a.',' sa''soon' "nlcn !" 1oittsea with carth~orks,
s".'se"e" ~ t"o oat'a'ons ol infantry. As
W. na'' oee" "eia5eo several hours by the rough
s.' sae'' W. "aa ~ 'l'ne 70 Fla't the to"n, the
es.aneF onl} 61opp'nR long enough to land and
'n@e on passengers.
! 7AH REST or TIE VOYAGE
nu9 "o"e mnas more cndtfaole. and We finally
.s .suasu ~ l1eplzono' having performed the en-"
s.' o o'''aaee ol Nv maes IN i've .da5a aud three
"o"'''
II ~aa raining when mounted horse the next
morning for Erzerouu, and It IL still raining as
pen taesc lines; In fact. rain seems to be tho
norma! condition Of tue atmosphere In AHA
Minor had no lstle difficulty fo securing
horses for myself and my xaptieh, or outde. IA
all the carriage laorses had been levied upon for
war.scrske. However, = letter To the pa,ba
from IN official In Constsntlnoplc, together with
IN inclosuro Of few piastrc., su1Jjccd to bring
THE NECESSARY srREps.
md l ,1'ade hearty farewell 10 TrctIxond. the
eemlik Khan, the 6ea1, and other M. M
purtcnanccs Of that unintcscstlnr town, The
mosque Of Santa Sophia glowefel after M
through the mist until nc had flcd tnto thc
mountains. Our horses were uR1y.iookinp
beasts Of small stature, but fraiuc of iron.
We galloped rcckless1y over tho uncertain
road, my Zaptich lastling his steed and tnlne.
and further encouraging them on by wild and
dla5oltcal ahriek&, such as none hut a Turk,.h
throat, am confident, could utter. The ra1n
came down in food, md soon evcn the eplaah-
Ing Of the horsca' hoofs In tho mud was drowned
In tho roaring Of the mountain torrents along
which our path wound precariously. On either
side rose prectpitous hills, whose sides vcre
clothed with sombre dask-Grreu pluc., lending
4 srHANaz ARD Drso1A1u Aapscr
to the already sonuwfu1 landscape. Now and
then through at opening In the rock, cleaned
the w1l!to roofa OF como village, hut NC possed
through but few settlements and met httl1 fcw-
er human kind. Most Of tho Villages were rc-
moved from tho main road for some inacrutsbtc
reason. We caught Ut with a con,panv at
Turkish Infantry doggedly trudrfur throuph
tho mlse to re}otn their battalion at Erzcfuum.
but they were the only signs OF war that W.
perceived on the entire road.
Towards evening ws descended Into the
etavros Boxhax, valley of considerable width
and Astounding tn evidences Of fertility and cul.
tfyat!on. Here, at q rather dtlautdated than.
over whose entrance was al Arabic Inscription
OF welcome, We determined to
PASS 1uB NIGHT.
It 10 perhaps unnecessary to remark tf1at
was somewhat exhausted. 1 will cycu snr Tint
never was 10 used UP In atl 3pr experience.
tenrhours' ride orer Wild road, through a chill
Ing ratp-stosm, Ia not calculated to Improve the
splrits or to inTtgoratc the body. was, therc.
fore, quite prepared to enjoy supper aud a
nights rest But, atasl In neither respect vas
destined to attain satisfaction. Entering the
courtyard, paved With brick, We ut once found
ourselves IN region Of cxecrab!c smells. NJ II
au tho garbago aud oflal accumulated for years
had been deposited there for the especial benefit
OF traSelers. TIC host or kh2ntt appearcd nj
tho door. sourv1saged and obese, and morosely
regarded III from underneath pa!E OF thick
bushy eyebrows, a. II 10 ask what the de7lj VIC
had como for. My xaptleh paid little attention.
however, to bis on,oous stare, but hastily dis
mounted and led tho way 3nto
THE coyTEE.noox.
1t was a low, raulted chamber, lit BY couple
Of tapeH fastened to tho wa1i and, what with
tue weakness Of the lights themselves and tho
tmeShcsa oI tho tooacco-emokc, It was some
moments before could distinguish any objects.
Tho hrst thing to assume shape was an Immense
bowl, set 10 tho centre Of the unexpected noor,
from which pufis Of smoke asccndcd now and
then ike incense. From the various sides Of
this unique article Of furniture there ran long
elastic tubes, each ono terminating In human
head attached to human being squatscd On tie
nooF. understood It once that this mechanism
was nonstrous norqht4a, or plpe, md that 1t
Was oclne used In common bJ the balf-doxen or
toorc guests IN tho cohee-roon. A. Nc entered
the zaptleh uttered the customary greeting,
- selsn A!etkum!" to which several voices
responded gra7cly In the sasnc wottis.
toxa AoHH olaaan.sn
was then exchanged between my guide and the
personages on tho floor, alter which one Of them
eolcmn1y bcckoned mo 10 Be seated, at the samo
fiino extending to me Quo Of the rnouth.plcces.
Although had notnclfnatlon to stnokc, especially
a. Ind as Jet had scarcely anything 10 cat since
'notniug. complied with the invitation, md sat
uown tn tho festive circle. Not word VAS
spoken. each smoker applying himself solely to
LIS pipe and to bis own reflections.
eooa began to tire Of this monotonohs occu-
patton, aud to allow mp thoughts to dwell fur
lively and amoronsly upon tho repast which tho |