National Republican., 1877-02-25
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
THE CUT or DRESSES AND THE PoIsE
OE,HITS.

What TO Get and How TO Wear It-Bonnots,
Dresses, Flowers and Trimmings, with Do
scriptiye Styles, Such rs arc Worn on Filth
Avenue and Murray Hill.
The new bonnets are capote.like In shape,
and arc so decidedly bonncts that they are no
longer In danger OF bong called hats. They
have close fronts ciasping the sides Of the heads
and projecting upward very slightly on top In
order to admit a small face trimming, or else they
have rolled fronts turned back from the face
The crowns arc large, high, and the newest are
square on top, though the pointed high crowns
are also shown; the back Of tho crown tapers
downward abruptly, and In some cases has an
inch.wide band like n curtain below Il. There
are both large and small bonnets, but the greater
number have small close fronts with ample
crowns that cover the head we'll
STRAW, CHIP, AND LEdHoRN.
yellow italian straws Of siikcn lustrc and fancl.
fully braided make up the bulk OF tho lmporta.
tions Of spring bonnets. Creamy white chips are
not abandoned, but thcy arc no longer tho nrst
choice, and when used, thoy seldom constitute tho
whole bonnet, part OF II, either crown or brim,
being Of fancy brads. What arc called twist
braids, some ofwhch are smooth and glossy, while
others are the rough English twist, promise to
be the popular choice. Some Of the prettIest ca.
potes have crowns Of smooth satin twist as soft
and pliable as chip, with brims Of rough.and.
ready braids in fcathery patterns, or curved and
festooned in scallors. Sometimes there are three
lace.liko rows OF yellow Itpllan braids around
the fronts ofsmooth bonnets. and again this pia
is reversed, the border being plain and the crown
rough: A novelty nov Is the open straw, dotted or
what In coInot fashion, but arc more modest In
size than the Cornct bonncts lately worn, and
bonnet. All these capote shapcs are worn quite
mr Forward. The newest chips are braided IN the
Black chips hSre Yellow Drsd s rSSaEy aIshs
| striped with white, or they have an inch.wIie
band t Of rough black twists, or Of iaco straw in
chips with brims Ike those Of the black bon.
| nets.
Finest Of all are tho genuine Lsghorn bonne,s
are Of the plain LoKhorn, while the brms, either
rolled or straight are plated and braided In rich
Straight curtain bands arc seen on most Of the
LeBhorn bonnets.
| ROUND HATS.
The rough twists OF substantial English straw.
not quite so deep In color as tho italian braIds
| are most used for round hats, which arc now only
used for undrcss occasions, such as travelling and
large crowns, square across tho top, and not I'm,
ike the SILK beaver hats worn by equestricnnes;
h me Srims M are rolled backward making the straw
shape Others are llarge English walking hats
with Derby crowns, while the greater number
onshire or Galnsborough hat worn last summer
The new Devonshire hats ara smaller, and the
rollirg upward, while tho other projects Outward
| Without being pressed closely to the head Far
Little Erls are sailor straw hats Of cardinal red
navy blue, or brown striped with white and
bound with ribbon to match. They are worn Tar
back on the head. the cardinal sailor hat I,
importations are already exhausted.
TIE NEW coLoRs.
yellow predominatcs In the spring coiors. The
delicate cream tints have given place 70 darker
straws they are to trim. First Of these is Mnnda.
rim. vivid yellow shade which Is the Imperial
r q naa sSsn SSIss S
h,t need; sniened By "tTSSwSS1ihsSl tSS Srssni
Reseda, or mignonctte, tho greenish. gray tint
So So popular two years ago, is restored TO favor.
stylish is clair Dc isns mSonlaSt l mi bns 5ns aSs
nut only lslo BOW Sa whi sds dMarron or Shs
| imported. Tillcul shades are deeper than t6oss
Of the present season.. Vesupe, a brilliant namc.
color, promises to replace tue cardinal now worn.
% s color shades sss oass ssH
Odd shades Of rose with gray tints are shown and
,Sass ss9s Sn ysS@ Ess
Sesd seS rsIl %bs I,S 4. % q:
Black saa S VIII Be- Eoas %ash 'nsss assS
esss with af' al the Sss eoiola iase On iRs tSs
list just given.
MATERIALS FOR TRIMMING, ETC.
| The newest materials FOR trimming bonnsts
have plush.like effects They are OF light quality
with looped threads, loosely woven In. and are
called by the dealers piushettes. These come in
be sSonae The ribbons most psEnse n
ported arc called double chain satin ribbons and
are very rich. rather heavy, indeed, for summer
on the other, The widths known as Nos. IL .is Is
streamers that hang behind.
Flowers are arranged in boquets, wreatbs. and
/ In half wrcaths Tor face trimming. Roses with
mianonette, or rose.buds with fern leaves, make
roses that have much coral pink 10 them. Twists
oI siik kn1i,ed Pleatings Of raveled silk, and
and capote bonnets, but tho novelty for tIe faes
| will be hall wreath OF dwarfed roses OF three
net.
The manner Of trimming the bonnet is very
simple Loosely folded ribbons or else scarfs Of
o1s x afe nd a.Sgha sa the crown and bouquet
is q cluster OF loops instead. when flowers are
used IN profusion,. they form broad wreath that
| almost covers the brim Of tho little capOte and
some tendrils climb up the crown. Streamers
viii mot be be given up by those who like them,
crown nccentuated by tho piainness OF It's ap.
streamers.
NEW WHITE MUSLIN DRESSES.
| Correspondents who do their summer sewing In
the quiet Lenten season ask for hints about max.
and in some dresses both materials will be used
The figured sheer muslins have sprigs, dots, stars
| and lacc.llko arabesques In them. For dressy
occasions there Will be prlncesse dresses made Of
| many graduated muslin pufs, with Insertions
| between, and lace on tho lounces For other
dresses the Breton style will be made up In m as.
lin and lace, with colored ribbons or silk laid
| under the lace. The peculiarlty OF the Breton
! dress Is the two broad bands at the back that
coniine the fulness Of the over krt rapery Into
| son put. These bands begin low down on tho
side cores and cross the back. They are made
OF insertion and lace laid on SILK The over. skirt
has long clinglng wrlnkied front, edged with
the lace trimming. A long pocket Of pleated
| muslin Is on one side, and n succession of long
loops OF ribbon and pointed ends hangs from tho
belt to the foot ou the opposite side. Tho long
basque Is made OF pleatea CORES taperlng In at
the waist, and separated by Insertion; a jabot OF
lace 10 down the 'front.' and rlbbon bows on the
neck, back and sleeves. Palmer suits OF Swiss
muslin omit the lace, and hayo for trimmings
pleatings so fine that they look like crlmplng
done by machine. Long prlncesse poionaises will
be made OF figured muslins, and worn over plain
Swiss muslin skirts. The trimming will he puifs
ofplain muslin, with colored ribbons run through
them, and finely crimpcd pioatings.
| - .NoRNiNd Jackets.
Morning Jackets for dressing or for breakfast
are OF twilled wools and Of hannels Of palo or of
dark shades OF blue, rose, or cardinal, and are
embroidered lightly with white noss. They are
made with doep sailor collar, and are slightly
soped in with the fiynro. Opera dannels arc q lso
used for this purpose and are trimmed with pinked
bands or with bias bands piped or corded with
white. These are imported unmade with the
embroidery all complete. Ladies who have