The New Orleans daily Democrat. [volume] (New Orleans, La.) 1877-1880, 1877-10-21
IMPROVED FIG.LEAyEs.
Fashions in ParIs--The Latest in COifuFes
New ts--stn1actite-Large
Collars, Etc.
PARIS NOTES.


Collars, Etc. ......
PARIS NOTES.
The autumn dress materials have become .
uniform in Paris. Neiseuses and bou,rettes, bour-
speckles, are the exclusive choice OF the day. The
beauty OF this seasons fabrics is heecy lambs
wool effect; their comfort lies in extreme light
ness and warmth. A fluffy velyety down 10 as vel
come to the touch % are its sober tints to the
eye. When the foundation is drab, gray, chest
nut, blue, myrtle, or slate, these oolors are en-
livened with bright, knotty designs, and among
the most curious are way-posts, mile-stones,
turnpike-gates, long telegraph lines. here and
there broken by bright lump Of wool. A tight
over 1t roll yellow, scarlet and green dots, with
larger balls, called soap bubbles. Next in favor
come matte woolens Of one color. The
tints preferred are tswny mare, deep, yet
corresponding brocaded velvets, colored silks
| and mstelasses. These fancy plain colors are
much recommended in cloth for msntels and
coatings.. Rich velvet in softly graduating tints
among the richest fabrics sent up from Lyons,
| being for robings and court aNre. As regards
the make Of the ladies' dresses, few innovations
in the decorative department are noticed. For
instance, the back OF fashionable bodice has the
central piece OF different material; 1t may be
faills or velvet and Ia sometimes even open
worked; sleeves are tight and have to be buttoned
on the wrist. Waists are tighter; and, In fact,
the correct thing 10 to have bodice go much like
corset that 1t differs only from the latter in point
Of material; both are laced. A large variety OF
accessories are admitted for the ornsmentation
Of these skin fits. There are, first, over-chemi-
settles, which some call berthes; they are col
lsrettes with revers, some being made OF chenille
| and lace, others of velvet ribbon, feathers, en-
broidery, lingerie, blonde Fittings, etc. The
newest are trimmed with fine orgsndi- borders,
worked by hand with pale floss silk. Another
model has kind of ephod attached, and made OF
satin, fsille or velvet; on IL are worked mono
grams or hieroglyhic symbols.
co1FFUREs LA MODE.
The greatest number Of coiffures come quite
low at the back, quite high, and for the former
style "Catogan" braids or the "French" twist are
made by short curls placed in some graceful
way. The demand for finger puffs amounts a.
most to rage, and, in consequence, they are to
be found in = variety Of sizes. A pretty style is
ton ut the back Of the head, forming the entire
dressing, with the addition OF smaller ones at the
top. A broad head may require three puffs at
the back.
Three large finger puffs may also be brought
high on the head, forming the couture, and an
other pretty way is to combine braid with puffs,
bringing the former around high on one side OF
the head, giving iDish on the. other side by
means Of finger puffs. One can hardly exsgge-
rate in regard to the advantages of finger puffs,
since apart from their ightness they are easily
handled and capable Of being placed in many
different positions.
There 10 noticeable absence OF all formality
in the arrangement of the hair. stiff uniform.
ity is entirely bsnished, aud thus, while one
young lady with slender figure and golden locks
may becomingly wear her hair done up loosely,
even In slight, disheveled style, looking ell the
prettier In consequence Of what we might call
caaip har NJ
characteristics may wear her hair smoothly, even
severely, arranged, and both would be equally
stylish.
Some jsunty little round hats, however, sre Of
velvet and those divide favor with felt. In addi-
ton to berries Of other kinds, we find bright red
strawberries in luscious looking lunches; ouD-
ming little apples are made up in red velvet, and
mon lures OF dark foliage are frightened by fow-
ers OF silk, satin or plush. Great beetles, such
rs would give rise to unearthly screams Of temi-
nine terror If seen in real fe are considered the
sweetest things possible when artifcisly bronzed
and placed on bonnets, and the same opinion is
held concerning all manner OF bugs, flies and
creeping things. Birds of paradise came first in
the way Of feathers, but, not to the exclusion of
ostrich plumes and tips, which seem TO hold their
own through every change. Gilt is freely en-
ployed, and more than ali perhaps the clair de
tune jet. Shapes are manifold in their varieties,
but for the most part display square or slightly
pointed crowns OF medium height, with narrow
brims.
ooLoRs AND COMBINATIONS.
For street wear the leading color 10 dark
shade Of green, which shows . tinge of yellow
when held to the light. 1t il sometimes called
moss green. and in the new tufted and knotted
fabrics is combined with lines and dots Of raw
silk, shot In dashes OF yellow, cardinal red, blue.
Seal brown and navy blue hold their own, but
both have been 80 long and we'll worn that
change is very welcome, and this beautiful dark
green is universally becoming and contrasts adj
mirably with the rich shades Of crimson or the
more delicate ivory snd tilleul.
The "sn0w flake" cloths are as fashionable as
ever and are very pretty made over six or velvet.
These goods in brown are very effective, as the
delicate flakes show to fine advantage on the
darker shades Of this color.
LARGE COLLARS.
Among the newest and most distinctive things
in lace, are the large collars which have recently
made their appearance, copied so strictly from
historical portraits that they bring Sir Peter Lsly
Louis XIV. and King Charles IL wildly before
us.
The fabric is q modern manufacture copied
from old Bruges point, venetian point and the
coarser Flemish laces, very effective in the large
shapes. and adding wonderful air Of distinction
to q sledenr, stately woman, properly costumed
in q close-fttlng dress Of dark silk or velvet.
With these collars q string of beads is worn of
the historical character of the dress.
sTALACTITE.
Among new fabrics for evening wear, an ex-
qusite fabric, one Of Worths designs, is called
stalaotite. It has o semi-transpsrent ground,
and upon this appear heavier figures in the shape
Of stalactites, or frost-work. When it comes in
white and pale shades it is exceedingly beautiful
There are other grounds in this fabric, OF ivory
white, conch.shell-pink, the yellow pink Of SAL
mon, delicate blue and rose; the stslactites up.
pear in such involved tints on the surface az gold
and copper, silver and rose, blue and rose, and
bronze and green.
THE FLORAL FAN,
bridesmaids bouquets consist of different kinds
OF flowers, varying according to the season of the
year and the kind of flowers used for dress gar
niture. A charming design IL fan composed
entirely of flowers Green is placed at the back
of q wire frame about the size Of rather small
fan; fringed flowers come next, say lily of the
valley, 80 as to form q graceful looking border,
and the remainder ia filad in with othar