Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1877-11-03

pc seq OF oas or NOR (. CT =, ar r. CO lsiSts
o sira ghi SaCqGe. Atter mat, IL began TO
suTne 81 ape, snd prices went NJ bat the
sEOTt lkIng dress, or what Is noE IOWA
as tiIs street s1tt. mad its appearance az the
same me, aud cloaks dissppe are 4 ami were
succeeded b. the English Wa ktng I.exet
for The dress must BE- displayed at the risk
OF shivertng. aud there are huDtr DIS OF W.
men who VIII remember encOauteriug IN.
necessary cold aud discomfort in order 20
exhibit = befrilled and befl N ICED c lstuma.
Later III English walking JACKET. whtca
was tCo>e and shape ess, came Out meta N n
phoset by tailor cat, which doubled it's
price. f r there was a charm IN the suOpoSi-
tion that II was cut like coat aud by "A
man, which added enormously TO its value
But The short walking dress disappeared
aud the jacket retired into the background
and the cloak came back three years ago
with flourish of trumpets We were all
glad TO see it, for we had been nearly froZ IN
without IL, but the price was aunihilating To
all but public contractors and those who
were In the inside OF rings"
This season, for the first time in many
years, we have good, well-mate, even dis
tlngaished looking cloaks at moderate prices.
The leading st. les consist OF long sacqle
and half fitting paletot. The latter ls male
In dark dIagons 81 or light beave cloth, win
reversible site, which is long haired ami
Jif7ry- These are mounted with deep Eugiis
iur coll ,rs. cut rouuding upoa The 'front.' an
deep cuffs, which serve a 4 the purposes OF 4
muff. The fast ming is effsc Ell win large
onyx buttons, shaded in the color OF TIA
cloth. A novelty in black or dark dia 20 raj
cloth is more o. less trim nei with gdiIo,ls
or passmenteries, aud has n broai strip
down the front, whic is cut long enolsh u
lake up just below the line Of the waiss and
form convenient muf These designs can
be purchased In imported cloths a Al well
made at an average OF thirty ri ye 4 pilarS.
not much more than half tue cost of vel
looking cloak any lime during the past te
wears. The very long sacqae shapes par
take OF the dolman in the depth. aud often in
the cut and arrangement OF the sleeves
They have superseded the plain circle TO
some extent, as silk, fur-lined wraps, bee iu>e
they are more protective and more gen rally
useful. Having sleeves, they can be useI as
Carriage cloaks as well IS mere theater ani
opera wraps. As remarked in "A previous
letter, when fur is used for trimming IL is
cut In very broad bands, but an effort has
been made To revive velvet as trimming
and this also Is put on in very broad strips or
oorderings, so that the garment seems To be
composer almost as much OF veIves as of
SILK. and TO this the most elaborats pass
menteries are often added.
IMPORTED STYLES IN BoNNErs AND COS
TUNES.
French models OF bonnets cosfu mes and
minor articles have been received in great
variety during the past few weeks and Their
cose inspection reveals the fact that what
ever oil novelty belongs TO the N Is workei
ont In details, rather than in the general
primer piles of their design. Imported dresses
Stlil follow closely the "Princesse" designs,
ana are only varied by the contrast OF "A pol
onaise or The separation of a basque fro n a
trimmed skirt. The new and striking effects
are obtained solely from the novelties In
and the new ideas embodied In ornamental
ton.
The most striking Innovation is the me-
whlch rs made OF rich DARK shade of red, the
most successful revival that of lead and let
trimming, and the most fashionable effects
are the production of mixed or pardImere
coiors and biendid shades, such as are form
ed In embroidery, In Indian cloth or cameTs
hair, and the brunette cloth, which is used for
polonaise or over-dresses. These vivid STYLES
whlch POSSESS dist 1ction, when they are ex-
al N n AHfl Xal.
ana vulgar In common ones. A rich red vel
vet or satin skirt, a white cancels b Air polo.
nalse, hecked with gold, and trimmed with
mixture OF SIX and gold gallooa aud
ton, and even surmOuuted by SIN All red
plush bonnet, subdued with 8 quantity of
real valenciennes lace, and rot seem loud
or out OF place, but make the rel a little
more obtrusive, the material C )mmon the
pOlonafse cheap, the lace on the bonnet con-
splcuous by It's absence, and put the costu ne
brilliant reception room. and you will have
Inquire that every little Arab wonld con-
slider created for his special amusement.
But Inc red bonnet is, after all, the excep-
ton. The finest and most stylish bonnet IF
the season is small aud all white IL has a
straight upright crown, a small coronet Grim,
ana narrow curtain. 1t Is M tde of silk
plush, trimmed with white satin and two
white ostrich planes, the stems of which ara
crossed In front, At the top, and are concealed
, py an aisa.ian o2w OF white satin: A little
poses OF them over the crown, SO as to nearly
conceal IL, and to the band and bow of white
satin at the back is added mario v white satin
strings Viii h are tied at the left side u nder
the ear. Tois model is sometimes male in
velvet and satin as well as plush, aud is de
parled nom by substituting q soft upright
'rown, the folds arranged irregularly; aud
Also oy trimming with real valenciennes or
nne old lace, as well as feathers. The most
fashionable theater hat is the Gsinsborough.
IN light felt, faced with satin the shade of the
trim miug. A long sweeping white plume is
It's distinguishing characteristic the end
shaded In the color OF the satin. Younger
dark bOnnets OF felt or velvet trimmed mr.
fusely with cocks feathers which are snri l.
kled with coiOred beads MATCH ag the fell.
are hn,S co str tne natural color OF beige
jackets and wooden costum es The first con-
sist either OF light cloth.trimmed with Indian
t EhmulOloery lor present autu mu wear. or
hitting sacques, simply stitched in the color
and finished with large onyx buttons.
Inc WOODEN costumes, In soft shades OF gray
or brown. are trimmed with embroidery ex-
ecuted upon the material in Indian co,ors or
In two shades of the natural color.
Inc white fabrics used for handsome polo
halses and 0verdresses, are of remarkable
beauty. They consist of soft cam rs tair,
necked with silk or gold, and are trimmed
WILD gaioons OF fringe TO match.
Inc frlnges are no longer cOmpo led of al M
pie strands OF silk; they show q co animation
OF rich materials and Intricate designs and
are mace 10 order for the most elegant res ses
and costumes, matching the shades and com
olnaf1ons OF materials in every particular
novel method OF arranging fringe is to
sew ~ on with the beading downward, So that
the fringe falls over IT,
LACES AND LINGERIE
III ~ quite a new idea for laceS TO bloss )m
in color, and though IL is doubtful If the
rear old or new laces could be improved
IN this way, yet 1t furnishes variety to
secondary qualities, aud makes the lace
departments OF the large houses look as
pretty az a flower garden. The most elab-
orate OF these effects In color are produced in
embroidery upon black aud waite la &c; but
there is also u great zeal or tOrchon with
scalloped edged in pale pink or blue, and
articles or make up lace TO which charming
effects are Contributed by the intro iuction OF
varied colors In silk ribbon or delicate leaves
of flowers.
The large collars which have been trying so
long 10 make Roadway seem at last 10 have
established their position. They are not how
ever deep and straight o. Old bat revive
antique and picturesque forms, AMI when
made In linen are edged with wide torchon
lace and finished with colored ribbons which
win broad cuffs worn on the outside of the
,ieeve suggest the trappings OF a gay caya-
ller upon the stage rather than q modest
nnlsh TO lady's indoor dress.
These new sets OF lingerie are, however
very striking and-while new-yery distin