The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1877-03-26


OF my ideas are coming out TINS Is Vile. Heilbronns
sleeve.
gat, light as a cockchaicr. nuttercd out. This
scenario and my quzzng attitude had amused the hall
begged she would thank NJ Pingat my name for tho
success of my interview for had come, seen ana IN
my minds eye skeiched him du ndturei Had he stood
Tor his portrait IL might have been "a make up" some
French dealers reflected, turning my steps toward
the Boulevard enriched by the patronage oil Americans
forget their obligations to those Who have made them
they are and that It Is avoid the thing
which may do harm as II IS TO keep an eye only on
what NAV do good When "A NJ Emile Pingat asserts
he OF nothing and no one no is simply ike
Turennc's cook, who mantaIned he required neither
fish, fcsn nor fowl 10 cook dinner. lie could stew
down ms masters own shoe leather and did not mind
laying any wager that Turcnne would not lind out tho
origin OF his menu, delicious was the rclish he could
simply Imaginable The Jealous with which models
are preserved from public view, and especially from
by these fashion monrers your side. The price Of
model is, therefore, outrageous
MINOR STARS.
Among minor stars the creative depar ment ofthc
Paris modes is brodeur dessnater character ~ an
Astrakhan ez ana tight, curass ttlns black suit he
is never seen without a cigar behind his ear and u
cigarette between thumb and finger designer who
gives shape the fanccs OF others, who combn mes
his own with real love OF art aud modern exgencies
is not OF the least to be estimated IN special
sphere Every icat TO be accomplished by needle
with cord. sk, beads, braid. gimp, gauzc or WOOL on
silk velvet cloth inds this quite expert be
a coronation robe, gauzo wing, throne room or
iootstoo but his mistake 10 10 apprchend that forty
ion that an American connection IS enough to XII OH
any number OF artists; that the craving oil that nation
for novelties is 10 DO compared to feeding monster
that lie cannot conceive and execute last
enough for such set OF people, ana
that tho States not 70 be trusted with
his ideas He has he never will reveal what Is
being elaborated In his brain until II has been iuly
developed for the benefit OF his own peope He VIII
not run tue risk OF A. T. Stewart (the hrm) catching
his inspirations before the OF Europe and the
Paris denli-monde have had time to profit by Them
IL is treat 10 watch the movements Of this curious
lAtr,fr ptnnh te hnnn "a
and his Chinese curiosities, and to hear him Talk
about Americans II Christopher Columbus had
never discovered them
There is place III Paris solemn, solitary and
grim that the spot Is moss grown and trequentcd
people. allude TO the Observatolre, edce capped
with heavy domes and inhabited by a moon eazer
named Leverrcr. Close by Is one OF the snugsest
and prettiest apartments in PARIS. II Is luxurousy
hung with old Goben OF the av0rite yoliowish green
color, and is furnished Will. carved oak mobttier,
the heaviness OF which Is relieved by prousion
OF exotics In this somewhat dim retreat,
livened only by log IRE, sits working al
small table an artist, and to complete
the tapleau u few steps IRON him very ole
CANT woman in morning negige. She 10 Winning and
graceful in all her movements but need not describe
hor features for they familiar TO all who cultivate
la mode Paris. This lady Is Nine Gustave Janet,
and husband has other model for the beautiful
figures which he designs IN the Nodes -art'sf.q"es
These plates set the fashions Tor all true Parsicnnes,
The and styles OF Worth giving tho artist the key.
note. This publication since II has been illustrated
by NJ Gustave Janets designs constitutes IN fact the
lrrc d'or OF the leaders OF fashion. At later period
the collection will be consulted Tor the history oil attire
N our period Quiet, unpretendng and sterling
H. Janets home, SO Is its master He Is universally
admired and his competitors despair OF ever arriving
at his level
AUTHORITIES ON corFruREs AND SHOES.
There remain now to be mentioned two other men Of
talent, who, like NJ JANET though not "lncn-
mners" have SO much to do in creating les modes
and who often in contact with the noiabes OF
the fashionable world that an article OF this kind
would be incomplete without some notice OF them
One Is coiheur or rather the coiieur the other is NE
shoe, slipper and boot maker. The former Is H.
Auguste Pelit. the latter NJ. Ferry. Ladies know,
aud gentlemen feel II instnctively, that every
tning III female toilet depends the head.
dress. The French and Americans understand this
better than most other nations France produces the
coiifcur and America the women who do a c0ilIeur
justice. NJ Augusta Pcit Ia the prince OF colfleurs
He is man of very elegant and lnsin uating manners
His own hair Is generally sadly deficient IN styie Tor
he cannot make parting down the centre Ia
Capou, and 1t curls It's own way which is the wrong
way. II, however, nature DENIED HIM the gift oil
head he could practise on. she gave HIM brains, and
there is not lady Paris who would think Of adopt
ing a couture without his advice When there is
gaia reception anywhere lie commences ''heads' in
tue morning. He thorough artist In MS line
blues the veins with Nympha, tnts the lip, arches
the eyebrow, waves the tantazng lock, adjusts the
wig makes fuss and handles softly. HIS latest
achievements Nine. Musard's aud Mmc
dc Ganay's headdrcsses at the opera bail,
and these were though: perfect. His iather-
the Empress favorite colfeur. The writer Of these
with Hippolytes performance that when she was pow
dered requested he would 30 down to her latners
stables and select Tor present the horse no liked best
lie did not avail himself Of the INVITATION but 1t
intended he should.
No less dclcalc are the functions Of the who
has to do the best possible with pretty foot When
duchess, diva recognized star puts this part OF
their persons into the hands oil NJ Ferry and tells him
TO make Tor It a satin dembotLe be with par
ticuar toilet, this demi-bote TO iii like the skin
itself and TO tascinae in no small way. n. Ferrys
mission is TO bcwlldcr ana captvate. dancing
boot or shoe has 10 twinkle, velvet boot t0
look as natural as a Kittens paw, silk
boot to strain and not hurt Tho art OF
setting heels where they should not be-, OF
curvlng in ankle and Of letting space tor Ma
lures moulding above is mean ART ana many will
agree THAI the to whom much Is Entrusted must
be.a very paragon OF ingenuity, tase and discretion.
NJ Ferry has scrutinlze instcps and pink heels 1t
opera TO invent straps sandals, gemmcd designs,
CATERS &C, and TO do all this with the cold eye OF
critic, while whole corps de ballot may be plrouettng
around HIM.
A word in conclusion. There is no avocation which
may not become profession, and there Is no profess
SION that may not become art. Some may sneer at
.'mcn-m liners but their feats TO people OF taste
often satisfactory those OF sculptor or painter.
The ideal actual life Is frequently attained by them.
and lie is surely dull and sad enough for not 10
sneer discourage those whose talent helps give
color Of reality to somo OF our peasantest illusions.