The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-04-06
[From Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

| first page, and of which cut paper pattern il
published, is one of the best models of the new
shore wraps that were described at length in the
New York Fashions of Bazaar No. 13, Vol TX
Its extreme simplicity of shape, with only one
bias seam down the middle of the back, and .
Talma dart on each shoulder, will commend it
to all and this scarf shape, with the mere,t
slit to pass the hand through, makes it oling
around the shoulders and hold the arms closely
to the side, giving the slender appearance now
considered stylish. The most dressy Of these
wrap are of light.colored wools, with black silk,
Scilenne, and net will be used for summer, and
plain black cashmere is used for palmer wraps
that are neat and lady-like though not meant
to be dressy. After being. lined with thin silk,
and all the seams neatly covered, they are bor-
dered with fringe, headed by row of galloon
two or three inches wide this Of the color of the
mantle or in darker shades. By way of max.
ing it more dressy, this galloon may be placed
in two lengthwise rows down the back, begin
ming at the neck, half an inch from the middle
seam, and extending parallel with it to within
six or eight inches of the end, where the gal
loon is turned under in points, and each pont
is finished off with fringe. Similar rows begin
at the neck in front and reach nearly to the
waist Sometimes rayeled silk pleatings of the
same color or in contrast extend around the
neck above the standing collar and down each
front to the edge. Thus on gray or drab man
ties this raveled pleating may be cardinal red,
while for black silk mantles the fashionable
contrast Is either tilleuel pleatings of Vesuevs
red or sold gold" color, olive green, or perhaps
mandarin yellow. Egyptian cloth, with
raised arabesques and palm leaves, is used both
for light-colored Doimans and for black. Feath-
er bands are also used for trimmings. Row
after row of pleated black lace is another styl-
ish trimming for black mantles. The French
imitation thread lace is most used for this pur-
pose, headed by passamenterie or galloon. The
revers overskirt shown on this picture is a styl-
ish French model for silk, wool or grenadins
graceful and the trimming is the wide brocaded
galloon now SO fashionable. The demi-trained
skirt shows how the gslloon Is also used on
lower skirts with excellent effect.
display of fifty or sixty French dresses set
ties the incest details of costumes, but presents
too great variety for separate descriptions
Two materials are used in nearly all dresses,
and 1T is quite optional whether these of the
same color or in contrast. Black silk princesse
dresses are trimmed with elaborate passamen-
tere placed in bands or as ornaments on the
waist and front. and with knife-pleatipQs
around the foot Long-looped ribbon bows
trim the pockets, throat and wrists, and there
are knife pleatings of raveled silk around the
wrists and neck Square plastrons of passe-
mentere are on many handsome dresses. A
Breton vest of brocade buttoned on the lefs
side and strapped across with the dress material
is in many habit waists. Other basques have
pleated fronts OF the brocade OF tee BASQUE.
with inner pleatings of the silk Of the trim
ming. Still others have plasttous made Of al
ternate stripes or folds of pleated silks, aud q
wide row of galloon follows the outline of the
plastron. All dresses have a cravat bow either
of ribbon or else of silk, which is sometimes
merely doubled and raveled to make fringe,
while in others it has facing of contrasting
color. Besides this bow many have jabot Of
pleated muslin or lisse like that shown in the
picture Of the habit basque; indeed the jsbot
is very much in favor again. There are also
basques with square fat postillioR backs, while
the front is a full blouse-waist shirred at
the neck and belt and worn with
pointed grdle; this is seen in rich silk bro
cades, and in the fine striped Algerienne wool
stuffs. A neat fancy for plain wool dresses il
to put thick cable cord of chenille on the edge
of the collar and cuffs. In dresses of contrast.
ing colors, such as gray brocade trimmed with
red, the neck is finished with two standing
knife-pleatings, one of each color. Black
camer halr polonaises are trimmed with wide
galoon in India colors and pasterns, and the
pearl Dnttons are Of the same brilliant and va
RED hues seen in the galloon. All buttons are
set very close together. The rows Of string but
tons, or those tapped as if strung on a thread,
are used on ali kinds of dresses, from the
simplest to those OF the richest fabrics; these
rows are liked especially, on the edges OF plas-
irons, on vests cuffs and pockets. In dresses
of wool goods two kinds of wool without any
silk are very much used; the sleeves and lower
skirt will be of plain twilled wool Ut the color
of the ground seen in the Knickerbocker or
bourette, or the checks of the other parts of the
dress. Square or long pockets are prettily
made of three bias Tapped folds, each two inch
es wide, placed horizontally, and trimmed with
a square bow; or the folds may be piped on the
lower edge; thus brown and white checked
wool folds have plain brown pipings OF the low
er edge OF each fold like binding, a square
brown ribbon bow is near the top and string
OF pearl buttons is down each side Of the pocket
Wool sleeves showing inside sleeves of silk just
at the wrist are very handsome.
The fringes of this season are the handsom-
est that have been imported for years, hence
fringe is the fashionable thinning. Both SILK
and wool fringes are how made in elaborate de-
signs, with open headings resembling galloon,
and broad enough to dispense with 1t, while be-