The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-05-23
From Harper's Bazar. |
Paris Fashions.

Paris Fashions.
The pro and con may be equally and simulta,
neousy true in all that regards fashion at pres
ent 1t is affirmed that we are returning to
simplicity of style, and this is true 1t is also
said that toilettes are becoming more and more
complicated every day. and this is equally ac-
curate But what is true as regards some wo-
men does not apply to Others
so faf from being abandoned, polonaises are
now made double, which hardly seems adapted
to the heats of summer. 1t is true such polo-
nases are chiefly designed for the demi-season
the spring and the coming fall. These suits are
composed Of skirt Of plain material trimmed
with side-pleated founces of similar striped
material; polonaise of faille of the same
color as the underskirt, and a second polo
nalse, narrower and shorter than the pre-
cedlng one, OF the same material as the
hounces on the skirt, with sleeves of faille to
match the first polonaise. The first polonaise
(of faille) is edged with thick cording of the
striped material, and the striped polonaise Is
trimmed with oordings, pockets and revers of
faile. The sleeves of falle are trimmed with
pleated ruches of striped material. In word.
the secret of the present fashion may be
summed up in this wise; Take two materials,
one OF which shall represent the principal and
the other the accessory, and of these compose
the toilette, trimming the principal with the
accessory and the accessory!wth the principal.
This is the whole recipe
But when well executed, one cannot but ad-
NIT that the result is charming l saw yester-
day a specimen dress sof this kind, which
will describe. Skirt of plain, dark green faille,
trimmed with five hounces of bourette of the
same shade with five raised stripes In bright
colors. The five founces were set on the front
three were op the sides only and two were in
the back. The polonaise. cut straight in front,
was made OF bourette material interviewer
with coarse threads of silk and reached to the
fifth (upper) founce in front, growing longer
on the sides, and finishing in the back with a
train slashed at the waist and pleated perpen.
dicularly. This polonaise was simply bordered
with thick roll of faille. Sleeves of saile,
with trimmings of bourette; faille pockets
corded with bourette; and a large plastron of
faille caught with agrafes on the left side and
forming kind of vest set on the outside
These descriptions will furnish the exact key
rote to the tendencies of the fashion for the
present year. Not only has the costume $50
termed at its origin) not disappeared, but it is
constantly being enriched by new combinations
and is extending its excursions into all the
branches of the toilette, and imparting to
these its own picturesque and original stamp.
Formerly, to be in the fashion every woman
must look like all her ueighbors. To-day by
the same rule, every woman must differ from
all the rest. From this it follows that instead
of following general rules in describing the
fashions, one is obliged to give an account sole
ly of details, and to enumerate thousand teat-
ures which contradict each other
The fashion of transparent materials of silk,
linen, cotton and even wool, will become uni
yersal. This fashion in fact, will open vast
field for ingenious imaginations. Silk gauzes
will be largely used, not in the shape of a pol
onase worn on q skirt of faille to match, but
stretched on the faille, that is to say, covering
it entirely, for the skirt as well as for the train
and for the polonaise, or else for the habit
basque when this takes the place of the polo
naise. These gau!es are sometimes entirely
plain and sometimes striped, or with lace de-
signs or else of a different color or shade than
the silk which serves for lining to the gauze.
This produces lights and shades of charming
effect The same combinations will be made
with batiste on toulard, or else with openwork
batiste on lining of solid bstiste.
fashion destined to create f1ror, although
remaining somewhat exclusive by reason of its
costliness, is bands of silk gauze embroidered
with silk, which are either set on plain like
galloon or else in f1ounces slightly gathered
These bands are embroidered either in several
shades of one color or else in different bright
colors.
Embroidery, however, will take different
role in fashions, There are innumerable arti-
ces of lingerie, such as fichus, small msntelets,
cravats and breakfast caps Of, white muslin,
with extremely fine embroidery in wool, repre-
senting flowers with their foliage, the whole ia
very subdued but natural shades. have seen
for the trousseau of a rich and elegant bride the
following garniture, composed of a large fchu,
cap and sleeves, the whole designed to be
worn with robe de chambre of white armure
silk. This garniture, made of white muslin
gauze, very fine and vaporous, was ornamented
with embroidery representing a Gordon of moss
roses with their foliage. The embroidery was
executed with such perfection that one could
count the sprigs of moss encircling the buds
and roses The shades of the roses were pale,
the greens slightly olive, and all the edges of
each article-cap, fchu and sleeves-were seal
loped with very fine olive wool in two light
shades. The effect of this work was marvellous.
A second set was made with embroidered my
osotis; another with heliotropes A host of
crsvats are made in this kind of embroidery,
and are destined to become the choice of ele-
CANT Partisan ladies'
Breakfast caps are numerous as regards their
diversity Many affect the shape of the Madras,
tied like those worn by the mulatto women.
They are made with special silk handkerchiefs,
and oftener still with fchuS of striped silk
gauze with bright colors on a white ground.
The lingerie is also gradually approaching a
transformation Dress sleeves are frequently
made almost entirely tight fitting on the wrist;
consequently we witness the revival (but only
on grave occaSions) of large deep cuffs of white
linen, surrounded with white guipure. The
collar worn with these cuffs is rather Deep and
is composed of band of the same linen, cut
all around into small points, under which is set
row OF very deep guipure edgiDg. For the
summer, for travelling and the seaside, there
are numerous collars and cuffs embroidered
with cotton of color to match the toilette.
Red is still in fashion, but only incidentally.
For trimming dresses of muslin or batiste there
are guipure edgiugs in white and red, or white
with shaded border, rose or blue.
Breton basques and polonaises will be much
worn during the coming season. The charac-
teristic features of the Breton basque are the
square neck opening really or only seemingly
over plastron, plain or pleated, or over a
chemisette of muslin. Embroidered galloon
defines the shape of the neck and is prolonged
a little beyond the neck. Similar galoon set
on horizontally connects the two perpendicular
rows of galloon. Buttons of pearl, gold, or
ivory, set on in strings, give the Breton charac-
ter to basques of this shape. Chemisettes of
white muslin, pleated or embroidered, which of
necessity must accompany the Breton basque in
summer, Will also be worn with all summer
basques opening square or heart shape in
front.
Bonnets entirely covered with flowers are
worn in the carriage. Very young girls, how
ever, wear them even ON foot in the street.
Bonnets composed only of a crown are adopted
for certain occasions, such as ceremonious visits,
weddings, musical matinees and grand recep-
tions in the daytime. For queter toilettes the
capote with a small cape is most generally
adopted. For the demi-season there axe nu-
merous bonnets of faille, armure silk, and
crepe de Chine. ESrMELINE RAYMOND.
Why the Orthography Of Russian and
Turkish Names Is So RadIy Mixpd