, 1877-05-13
PARIS.
L II lEIoo
FASHIONS GLARISG ABUSES.

backward to the Quatorze period, with its ford
grandeur and Romau pomp; neither to the time
OF bcrgeries, nor to that Of affected styles. when
dress and language as coQuettishy discreet az
the madrieal5 of voiturc. All Of these have been
tsilea with by Fashion in some degree at the prea
ent time but our age will ever loom up amidst all
others as the intrepid champion OF audacity, for
daring has never been equaled in the past and can-
not be exceeded in the future. These reflections
arose on my tour of inspection through some Of
tue principal establishments Of Pnris yesterday,
when was forced to abandon all hope that Fash-
lou would moderate some Of her most glaring
abuses as the scason advanced. The small orange
huci sunshaues which drst appeared as II to test
the power Of that color to obtrude itself even in
small designs now retreat before umbrellas, more
offensive than those OF cardinal, which almost
dazcd the sight Of Longchamps last summer.
Some Of these are pointed around the edge with
gold cardinal, or mandarin tassels at every point,
CLEOPATRA cAEoPIEs;
Others have Vesuye and Holhein green fringe, and
are still in the manutacturGrs' hands, but when
thcy emerge from their establishments Us tue great
est novelties in that line. and shed their glory in
the great Parislan stores, fhey will eagerly be
graspcd by those whose dress and equipages, par
ticularly at the races, ui at conspicuous d1splny
UplbeiH green, artistically used, IL one OF the
choicest coiots, but It requires the genius Of
noloein' to render it harmonious ~ present COM
extremely loud contrasts which the great artist
would have ecorncd, as his conceptions Of the
beautiful were yery keen nls power to 70 enhanee 1,a
which so far exceilcd that OF the original that
Henry VIII. wns 50 exasperated with the Queen
accoant Of her infeorty to a re pfthse hnae ne
Cicyrs, This portrait, aud that Of the Dova3er
Duchess Of MiInn, have recently been brought lnto
prominence among art COLLECTIONS IN London, and
It is presumed this fact has introduced the Holbein
green.
THE GLAR1NG CoLoRs
now favored by fashion can never be tolerated BY
refined tustc in their present adaptation, as their
only charm consists in dclcatc gradations, ar
ranged by that arl which is required topaint dew
drop with its myriad rchectlona blue satin cor
sage, shaped somewhat like deep pointed Span
ISL wa,st, attracted my attention at prominent
modiste's, and the information that it was to be
worn ut reception to be given In honor OF the
that possibly some Of our Parisian styles may not
claim the admiration Of this Royal visitor. This
was eu,phatically sleeveless eorfage win mar mar
across the shoulders without the least suggestion
Of sleeve. Not all inch OF lace nor scrap OF
tulle. \ thick pnfng Of blonde edged the tor ~ Of
same material fancifulIy fcstooncd the satin skirt
and emerged in diaphanous masses between the
openings OF deeply, tFa,n Ihe g9so
and unique bracelets necklnce, and tiara CLEANED
With si1nilar ornamcnts,-a right regal costume,
truly, with it's satin shinmertng IN thc wa1"hshs'
uIDEOUs IN ITS DEPARTURE
from delicacy and even bold etrontcry. sleeves
have been gradually aecreasing in their ptopor-
7tlons but their utter extinction has never been
dreamed Of until the designer Of this costume m
ticipatcd the extremity OF fashion In most ultra
form. The result Of thus trespass on reancd ele-
gance may pass unnoticed, as the attempt IL to DC
made by 4 prominent leader OF society, and poss1-
bly, it NAV be inflated -.-,
beautiful nluterial has Just appeared 1oF
known as spopclincs- -Bcngalcs, - which deserves
especial notice, although MANY other India sum
mct goods are constantly arriving anu muen aa-
mifed but too numerous to designate in Pnrt!cu-
lar The Mayasins du Louvre have the exclusive
sale of this popcine at present. but coatumers VINO
are designing toi'ettcs tor expordifona difa expect 10
aud you will ere long welcome the charlning sam-
mcr goods. ....-
THE MANIA FOR CuR1os1T1Es
still continues its ravages in PAris. Drawing.
rooms resemble museums, with their old
tapestries, scu'pturcd worries, fatcnecs. and in
fact anything which represents retrospective IN
appearance OF act:ye service rather than that Of
being arranged for display, and even Parlsian tact
Is sometimes at an extremity to produce the des,ed
their pcnchant among tile contents OF the Llrn
palncc collect on now exposed, for sale IN Paris,
md which challenges the admiration Of the world;
There are tapestries that rival those in the Pitti
Palace, where the sublimity of art reiens supreme,
and it is marvel why the Baron tiustave De
Kothschild has not purchased DECORATIONS TOT ms
new palace from this wonderful collection. 1t Is
true nlotcrn art there impscsscs the bchoder with
It's n:asnihcencc, but even the illustrations Of
Tasso's Jerusalem" :" delivered on the walls OF
tic principal salon Of the l}arons palace. pale be-
fore the grandeur Of the Liria Palace collection,
among which arc copies from Raphucls cartoons IN
Hampton Court, and the two missing cartoons are
tic Church Of the Madeleine has sustained
loss by the resignation Of NJ Saint -saens as organ.
ist who his oIciatnd there for twenty years. Ills
last work. the ..TTinbrc d'Arscnt,'' has proved
success, although unjust critics threatened for
time TO destroy the popularity OF ITS composer. composer:
Of Mile. Albani, but now produces new prtma
donna to admrinc audiences. and who has been &C.
MATH1LDE.