The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-03-21

belt and short waist worn during that period.
Tho princesse dress Is the foundation of all
these tolestes, but the effect given is very diff
srsn. IRON That now worn. Soft white barege
1eiaine Is tue choice material for these dresses.
One very rich model will suffice for descrip-
ton. 1t is o white laine (soft wool) princesse
1ress with Vatican told behind belted down
NAT by a belt of striped brocaded slk-blue, red
and gold combined-at least four inches wide.
a square turaed-over collar trims the neck,
The front OF the skirt has two diagonaly draped
scarfs of the white wool trimmed with bands OF
she gay bfocade and fringe, the skirt mas no
hounces This is intended for seaside Dress.
Others are being made of the dark blue, wnlte
or green wool with the Breton pockets I'M
ported in colors aud cloth embroidery.
Aside from these novelties are polonaises
with new features, also the habit basques al
ready described. The polonaises are in many
cases fastened diagOnaly, with the front middle
seams aud the single darts extending all the
length to the foot of the garment in order to
make o straight fiat effect without the use of
strings. This front aud sides re then elabo-
rately trimmed with GALLON and with fringe
not merely border of fringe, but row above
row OF wide fringe of intricate designs and
melted heading. The back has long seams
from the shoulders and may be absolutely
without drapery, or else the square long
breAdths have revers added, and are knotted
mp somewhat in blanchtSSease fashion. Other
polonaises have three-corn-red neckerchiefs or
hchus of silk like that used IN the trimming;
some bave two triangular revers OF silk, fastened
at the neck, thence open en- Surplice, and fas-
tened a. the neck, and fastened again at the
waist by but TWO buttons. Many are entirely
without frlnges or galoons, being merely hem
med or faced with silk.
The new nantes are scarf shaped, much
o horter behind than those now worn, with
long slender fronts. There is but one seam in
he oack, and tn ere are no shoulder seams but
merely q dart from the neck to the shoulder
tip, sIch as is used in Talmas and round capes.
Instead of folded wing like piece over the
arm, there is a slit for the arm to pass through.
This gives a most slender and stylish eff CT.
Ar illustration on page 141 of Bazaar No 9. Vol.
x, gives q good idea OF this wrap. The rows
of fringe low down in the middle of the back
and on the ends of the front are very stylish.
light materials used, and the trim ming is chen
lille embroidery on the cashmere, gal
loon and fringe Black camel's -hair manIles
are made in the same way, also gros grain
silks. A great many black silk sacques of
long aud simple shape will be worn trimmed
with thread lace, ruches, passementere braids
in patterns or galloons in bands, and finally
feathers of the darkest shades of cocks plumes
and other game feathers.
Small black lace points in shawls are worn il
various ways by Partisan ladies. They are ar
rayed over the shoulders as fichus canelessy
knotted on the breast, or as Spanish wells over
the hair. They are imported in llama and n fine
lace; S48 Is the price of tho-e of fine quality.
DdutiuS p6TasOlo are tu6 uOVelty W uo
fered for spripg and simmer use. They are
made of navy blue or of white bunting, with
canopy shaped tops, ring aud bow to close
them, and sticks of bamboo. For trimming
around the edge, loops of ribbon half an inch
wide are arranged, or else the ribbon hangs
like fringe, and is flushed at the edge with
button or . tassel. Thus blue bupting para
sol with blue bunting lining, will have cardiD al
red loops of ribbon for a border, and the ring
that passes over the top to close it will have q
cardinal rib on tied on it.; others are similarly
trimmed with white. For more dressy para
soils black brocaded silk is used, and the lining
10 white silk Dinked on the edges; broad band
of satin is woven near the edge, and the black
ribbon loops of the border have q tassel on each
or else there are rows of black f1uted lace head
cd by . ruche. The handles for these hand
some psrasols are of ebony or of black lac
quered wood, with Japanese designs of bird
and flowers in gold lacquer. or else dotted witt
with gold engraved heads, Car nelian knobs, OF
silver horseshoe links and chains to fasten then
to the belt Many of the ebonized haDdle
have silver ornaments of heads and flower MT
dsllions. Light fancy sticks of bamboo or othe
WOOD with natural roots at the end are espe
cially liked Black gros grain parasols trimmed
with lace are very handsome. Smaller para
soils for children are shown in brighter color
and combinations OF the designs just described
The cardinal red silk sun umbrellas and para
soils introduced last year are offered again.
The ptincesso dress is being made up for lit
tie girls summer wear In grey and buff lneus
white repped pique, and in dark blue linens
trimmed with white embroidery or Smyrn
Lace II is fastened in front, is only half fit
ting, and therefore cool, and sometimes has bo,
pleats down the front. These pretty dresses
hang all the weight from the shoulders, are il
one single piece. aud are as suitable for tn
street IS the house, all OF which are desirabl
things in chidren's dresses