St. Johnsbury Caledonian. [volume] (St. Johnsbury, Vt.) 1867-1919, 1877-07-06
Notes from Turkey.
Among the Bulgarians.-V.

In delightful gorge, where the crag-
gy cliffs of the Balkans stand open Just
enough to invite one to come and ex-
plOre what is within and beyond them,
is the monastery of Muglish.
1t is only about four hours ride from
Eski Zaghra, and one day of our visit
was devoted to making an excursion
thither. Mr.. Bond accompanied us on
his fine bay horse, which he Insisted on
my taking for half the way,-an ar
rangement which added very much to
the pleasure of the day, on my part
Striking off over the hills from Eski
Zaghra we soon found the difference
between travelling over welI-built high
ways and a country ''where torrents
were the roads, and rains the highway
surveyors" We followed the bed of a
stream for some distance, and then
scrambled along its banks, beside preci-
pices where single mis-step would
have been our last, over rocks and gull
lies.
A short distance of such accommoda-
tions makes more impression on one,
however, than miles of good road, and
| must admit that most of the way we
got along very well. There were little
mills built all along the stream, where
large overshot and undershot water
wheels were grinding the daily bread of
ha inh i,
and hilly, with now and then little
village, but as TO the most, locking we'll
nigh deserted.
On the distant hillsides we could see
vineyards and wheat fields, forming
such patchwork that we wondered
how the owners could ever find where
must be very cheap there if we were to
Judge by tire amount occupied by the
road, which in some places was twenty
or thirty rods wide. In mud time one
could take his choice and be sure he
had selected the worst, but when we
were there the sun of April had made
it very passable.
After about three hours we reached
the valley of the Toondia. 1t is a
branch of the Martha, flowing from its
source in the Balkans through a broad
and fertile plain until it joins its chief
at Adrianople. We were glad to find Il
place where we could give reins to our
horses, and the towering Balkans rapid
Iy came nearer. The town of Kezan-
LUX, the chief place of the manufacture
of ottar of lose, lay off at our left and
we passed many rose gardens which, a
month or two later, would be shedding
their fragrant blossoms to scent the
handkerchiefs of Europe and America.
Groves of trees were to be seen scat
tered along the plain. AS we came to
one, a magnificent growth of elms,
which are by no means common in this
country, Mr.. Bond told us that, only Il
few years ago, this place was Infested
with brigands, so that a man was not
safe from robbery OF murder in passing.
Naturally enough this suggestion
brought to our minds all the stories of
brigands, of which we have heard not Il
few. but we rode on without molesta-
ton or uneasiness.
4, am reminded here of a little cir
cumstance which happened to Mr.. Par
Sons, a missionary from Nicomedia. He
was out Oh tour among the out-sta-
tions of his field, when he was met and
stopped by notorious chief Of band
of brigands, Leftere. The robber de-
manded who he was and what he had
in his saddle-bag He replied, 81 am
missionary and have some religious
; books.n Leftere wished to see them,
and taking a Bible sat down to read it.
After little he inquired the price and
bought it, with the remark, 81 came
here for your money but you have got
mine." OF late years brigandage has
not been so common in the country as
: formerly, until the late political dis
turbances, which have made it desir-
= able to take more precautions in travel
ling.
The village of Muglish lies just in the
mouth of the gorge to which we hat
been approaching. 1t presented some
features of peasant life that we had no
seen before. The people were all ou
r. of doors as at Eski Zaghra on account
of the praSnik, and a large company
was assembled on an open square busily
engaged in dancing. Our coming wa
evidently quite an event among them
and we were received with true inborl
politeness. As we passed groups o
men or women sitting on the ground
VI they invariably arose, and "DObra
doshH ~ "D06rndoshH :" ''YOu are wei
come !" "You are welcome !" came from
all sides. This welcome was, however
s. always given by the elder men ant
Y. women, the young people gazing at u
in silence. Whether the race is degen
Grating, or the rising generation hav
acquired some of the cold indifference
of modern civilization, or it is not con
! sidered becoming for young people
ne especially young maidens, to speak t.
m strangers, do not know.
Mt Following up the dashing mountain
" stream for some distance, we came t
the monastery. 1t was in beautiful