The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1877-03-17

| tlTely SATISFACTORY mas TWO OdrIS IN edCn
front and the usual cross-seams at the
waist-line, while the back shows extra
de-bodies, which terminate at the
shoulder-seam. Of draperies it is diff
cult to speak with certainty, as many
stylish dresses are made to hang without
any curtailing or drapery, while others
have drapery pleats placed below the
hips, thus providing something of
bouffant effect at the center-back. The
leading preference for Princesse models,
however, is for very slight loopings and
drapings.
Polonaises freshly designed for early
spring, and also to be used later, when
fabrics for the laundry are introduced,
are simple but handsomely prouortioned,
having double darts which extend well
down upon the fronts and backs, which
in some models are divided into extra
portions, and in others are IN the ordi-
nary shape. In these designs the intel
ligent adapter finds opportunity for pro-
ducing different effects by the use Of
garnitures more or less dressy, while
without elaborate ornament garment
for the plainest occasions and service
may be constructed with equal facility.
Polonaises which close diagonally in
front are first choice for the present and
Athe coming season, and ladies who are
unfortunately stout will be compelled to
modify the style with trimmings which
are brought we'll to the center-front, or
to select other forms than diagonal. An
extremely graceful style for Stout figures
has basque-front, with separate apron
nd hanly ~,
which the side bodies are carried to the
shoulder, while the skirt portion is
handsomely draped at the sides with
barely enough depth of looping to pro-
) vide stylish effect. The hem of this
polonaise is uniform, and is therefore
susceptible of elaboration with fringe,
lace, ETC., and, the drapery being slight,
; an admirable design is the result. An
other model exhibits similar distribu-
ton of seams, breadths and darts, but
the drapery of the back breadth is car
) ried well below the sides, and these lat
ter are rounded up from a somewhat
long and pointed centerfront. The de-
sign is handsome in black silk, trimmed
with lace and looped ribbons.
Basques and overskirts are not wanting
in novelty and variety now when fresh
fabrics are at hand for their representa-
+ ton. The aforementioned present an
unlimited field for the novel uses of DIFF
ferent material, as well as shades and
colors, and the latter, more elaborately
trimmed than ever, comprise the best
features of designing with the most
graceful forms of draping. Nothing
better than the cuirasse basque, as re-
CARDS modelling, is likely to be intro
, duced for long time to come, for this
+ admits of the use of one or two darts, as
may be preferred, and the extra side
! bodies at the back, which are becoming
, to nearly all figures. The skirt of u
, basque, so called, is by common consent
given up to individual taste and personal
requirements. Frequently, for dinner
or full-dress costume, basque is cut
) long at the center-front and back, and
short upon the hips. For dark or a
l black silk a, favorite mode exhibits a
square and somewhat long back, copied
from riding habit styles; while for Il
young lady of slight figure very full
, pleating is inserted at the back, the cen
tiers being cut off so that the pleating or
position is three or four inches shorter
than the side-bodies. Instead of pockets
cluster of No. 16 ribbon, forming one
, short and two long loops, with uniform
4 ends, makes a handsome trimming to be
placed in the pocket locality. In sewing
, the single loop upon the basque Il small
!, !, pleat is taken in the center, and three
. small buttons are placed across the top
of the loop. BaSques with vests are
) growing in favor for the street, and al
ready exhibit very handsome combina-
,, tions of fabrics for spring wearing.
l Sacques, also, are completed with vests,
what closely to the figure, and are point
4, ed, rounded or square in general outline,
as may be most becoming to the wearer.
, , The length of sacque is also point of
individual taste and suitability; in black
silk street costumes the length is greater
than for almost any other variety of
, uniform toilet.
Over-skirts, in point of dressiness and
variety, are conspicuous just now, when
there is disposition to trim basques
somewhat simply. Several fresh styles
appear for early spring service, and all
except styles intended for travelling cos
tunes display irregular loopings, and as
far as possible diagonal effects A very
snowy design, consisting of a front, two
: side cores and full back breadsh,
: shows diagonal front, ornamented by
e simulated button.holes and buttons,
which laps over upon the left side, ex-
tending to the line beneath the arm.
2 Upon the extreme opposite side three
pleats shorten the depth sufficiently to
produce graceful drapery. The back
: is long and square, and falls below the
: depth at the right of the design, while at
the left the double half-fronts, called the
cores, are carried back and upward in a
cluster of pleats, passing under the side
seam of the back-breadth Pockets
upon overskirts are large, and so placed
that they slant toward the back. One
snowy design consists of large, oblong
lapel, made half of plain and half of
brocaded silk. The latter supplies a
deep bias border, and small buttons are
placed as II heading.
The season of spring nantes has ar
8 rived and, as Dolmans promise to retain