The true northerner., 1877-08-24
LIFE IN SPAIN.

we commenced at once upon the slghts
of Madrid, visiting the armory first. where
We saw swords worn by Charles ". Don
John of Austria. Pizarro. Philip H., Cor
ties the armor of Columbus, Philip H..
Charles ". the saddle of the Cid, and
other articles of historical interest We
went through the Royal Palace, through
the stables and coach house. and the Naval
Museum, in which there are many memo
rials Of Columbus We drove out of the
city, crossing the Msnzanares, on the bed
of which a multitude of gipsies were en-
camped, for there was not water enough
in 1t to get up decent fog. In half an
hour we reached the palace ofthe Marquis
Of Salamanca, which, If not richer, 10 cer-
tainly more elegant than the royal palace.
II contains many treasures Of art and we
were not little surprised to find in the
diningroom some large paintings Of Eng.
lish subjects. We returned to the city,
and rode through the Prado. where we
had fine opportunity TO see the fashion
able people Of Madrid in carriages and on
foot. The ladies almost invariably wore
the mantilla, which is kind of lace veil,
on the head. The Spanish cloak does not
go out Of fashion among the common peo-
pie. Beggars and tinkers wear 1t. and we
have seen man blowing with one over
his shoulders.
The Puerto del Sol is lively place. In
the centre of il is an extensive fountain.
The walks are crowded with people boys
selling newspapers. women selling tobac-
co, cigars, and matches men, women,
boys, and girls selling lottery.tickets.
Standing in front of the hotel, the stranger
is importuned every moment by lottery
seller. You are addressed as Senorito."
II you sit down in a cafe or restaurant
they pursue you. In addition to these,
you are invited to purchase tickets to the
opera and the bullfight at runous prices.
We wished to attend the Royal Opera the
first night of the season, but tickets were
held by spectators, who had bought up
nearly all of them, at two or three times
the advertised prices.
The closing bull-6ght of the season was
on theifrst Sunday in October. Immense
hand-bills proclaimed that eight bulls
would appear on this great occasion.
All the forenoon the tickets were hawked
about the streets at premium. From
two o'clock in the afternoon the Gale de
Aldala was crowded with people on their
way to the bullring. About ten thousand
people attended the exhibition. We were
pleased to see among them but very few
ladies not more than a hundred. We
had a good seat in the shade. When We
entered, the ring was full of people,
smoking, chatting, and walking about.
But the crowd behaved very well none
were tipsy or noisy.
At signal, two men, dressed in black,
rode into the ring, saluted the city author
ties,-who are supposed TO preside over
the entertainment,-and made the circuit
the people to leave the ring, which they
did. A procession of those who were to
take part in the spectacle then marched
into the enclosure The two officers In
black led the column then came three
espadas, or swordsman, who are the stars
of the performance they were followed
by four picadores Qancersl, mounted upon
worn out old horses next came the ban
derillos and behind them is squad of
men on foot, whose business it was to tease
and worry the bulls; and the rear is
brought up by three mules, harnessed
with gay trappings, to drag the bull from
the arena after he is killed. This impo-
sing array of combatants march up to the
authorities, and make their obeisance, and
retire.
The blast of trumpet announces the
coming of the bull Two picadores have
stationed themselves at one side of the
ring, with their lances poised. A pair of
doors are thrown open, and the bull, with
ribbons on his horns, rushes into the arena
He is a broad horned fellow, and enters at
a lively trot. Seeing the picadores, he
rushes at the first the lance pricks him
on the shoulder, and he is easily turned
aside, and darts at the other picadore, who
turns him aside in the same manner. By
this time, several chulos, or men with red
and yellow mantles in their hands, attract
his attention, and skirmish with him for a
few moments. The same picadores then
face the bull and at this one or both of
the old horses are gored by the horns of
the animal. Another blast of the trumpet
brings in the banderillos, who are gaily
dressed in circus costume
They are each armed with two sticks,
three feet long. adorned with gay ribbons,
in the end of which is dart with fangs.
which springs out when it is thrust into
the flesh of the animal, so that the instru.
ment cannot be drawn out. One Of these
men face the bull and when the anprv
beast comes ut him, with his head lowered
so as to transfx him on his horns, he dex.
terously thrusts the two darts into his
shoulders, and lodges to one side. The
pains maddens the bull still more. and the
chulos tease him while longer AT
another signal, one of the espadas (swords.
men appears, marches up to the autordad
makes short speech, to the effect that.
=" In the name of the good city of Madrid
and the people there assembled, and for