The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1877-08-13
yirginia Professor In Greece.

| .s-... ATHENS, GREECE, july II, 1871.
Editors Dispatch: Your readers have
doubtless been kept well-informed OF DR..
Schlicmann's work in Greece through the
columns Of the London academy, London
Times, and New York Tribune. Perhaps
little sketch OF Athenian life and scenery
might not come amiss after the labors Of the
arclnologists. My object in coming to
Greece was principally to examine for my
self and for my own private satisfaction
into these discoveries. The Homeric ques-
ton is one OF infinite interest, and there
seemed to be few pleasanter ways OF spend
/ ing a vacation than studying the won
| derful relics that were claimed to, have
thrown so much light on it. The
pilgrims who set out with this de-
vout purpose did not dream that Aga
memnon's regalia were nailed up in boxes
and AS inaccessible to view as IL they still
lay in the trcaSure-house of Myken9. They
were deposited in the bank here because, it
was said, there was no place in Athens
where they could be satisfactorily displayed.
The public were admitted !stiDgily once or
twice week to view them and form their
own conclusions. On our arrival here even
this meagre inspection was found to have
been revoked and the objects removed to
the Polytechnic Institution, believe, until
they should be redisinterred from their
cases and submitted to the study OF scho-
lars. & Perhaps il one were member OF the
British Museum OF u professor OF art ut
Oxford the cases might magically open,
and series OF uninteresting descriptions
follow to various London periodicals. AS
it is, the unknown and ignobe crowd may
travel five thousand miles and ind itself
dcbarred this exquisite privilege. AS for
l., oil MA Y
ing these prehistoric, il not pre-Homerlc,
reiiquiW, this is, simply. idle. There
are the University rooms, the vari-
Gus ministries, the National Museum, and
the Varvakion; all Of which could doubtless
| be made sufficiently secure TO exhibit OBJ
| iects so iueStimable. And the Greeks are
not such robbers that n military guard
should be necessary to ensure their safety.
The party OF sayants and students therefore
| who left America and followed this Star Of
the East found it lowering over an empty
barn. To be in Athens and to know that
these priceless fragments are locked up in
the next street-to feel the hopelessness Of
ever having another chunceto see and study
them-is exasperating. Fortunately there
arc many things OF many kinds to interest
visitors in Athens. The scenery is very ex-
quisite. The atmosphere has surpasslng
brilliance, wbich bathes everything in light
that Of an evening transfgures Hymettus,
and fills the Attic Plain with understandable
! beauty. 1t recalls the lines in the Mecca OF
Ehrinides, and those rare touches in sAris-
to phanes where he forgets to be Aristo-
phanes and is altogether Athe nian.. For the
| true Athenian delighted in scenery. and
described it in few subtle pen .pricks that
shamed the elaborate portrature OF Milton.
Nothing can be more delightful than ride
| through the oiiye-grove OF the academy,
which still, with its silyery and monu-
| mental trunks, is .redolent Of Plato. The
| Kephissos, which IS now perfectly dry,
members all through this lovely vale Of
/ philosophy. 1t is alive with. nightingales in
| the spring, though now one is deatened by
the innumerable cicadR that cling and sing
there, and leave their dry, cast-off shells
sticking to the great oliYe-trees, and recall
Jtae tender little epigrams in the Greek au,
dtholory. AS one drives on, beautiful
siimpses of Pentelicus, Parnes, the Pass OF
fDaphi,e, and the Acropolts, flash inthrOugh
! tho Tnoonlisht-lesved olives, and recall q
thousand associations. The sea mantlos IN
the distance and throws up in bold relief
the shores OF Salamis and the Argolc PeIo-
Eponnesus. The evening light makes the
i Acropolis the most glorious pile Of dis
mantied and disheyelled marble. The moon
may now be seen shining through the pill
lars OF the Parthenon and filling the temple
with eery end unearthly beauty. The eX-
cessiye beat calls for SieSta between II and
f6-a practice which Is universal with all
| classes. The streets are deserted even by
the peasants in their picturesque dress, who
drive round asses laden with fruit and
vegetables, and constitute sort OF croak-
ing, perambulating market. The cries OF
the Athenian market-people are very odd.
Athens is improving wonderfully. You
would hardly find so many new houses
and substantial sbrlck and 'marbleaones-
building In an American town, spacious
I neay bouieyards are laying out, I'D the Seap-
I otB;i elegant mansions OF wealthy greeks
| are going I'D. a Greek banker OF disnnc-
| toni erecting square OF superb buildings
OF Pentelic marble, to be called the National
ACADEMY, and everywhere the, Philhellene
! is charmed TO see evidences OF the quick and
poignant spirit he knows 30 well through
| his classics. The shops arc still poor ana
mean; the churches either the most absurd
but precious little Byzantine structures OF
tthe eighth century or the hyehest ana loud.
/ estexhibitiops OF recent munlhcence and
| bad taste; the old town one battle-ground
Of stenches and tortuosiies. But despite all
this. modern Athens ia q place OF great In
terest. There are museums and collections
scattered about, but confused and without
Catalogues. The Museum Is the most perfect
temple preserved to us from anti qlity. The
old historic localities Of the Afeopagps, the
II Esnyr fhs Stadium the eFHrnicus.t and the