The daily intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Territory [i.e. Wash.]) 1876-1881, 1877-07-17

VV"apgS, HOM me Jrerh "Or1 almost the
same. From shese comes jozsIasiHe a
woven fabric IL which the WARD is
formed Il silk. and the wef:. or shoot
Of worsted
Ihis particular manufacture origi-
mated IN Norwich, in the eas, Of Eng
land. among the Huguenots who settled
there about 1915, after the terrible day
/ OF ST Bartholomew. Formerly. bom-
hazlries ware made Of various color.
Out, owing to changes of fashion. they
are now manufactured in black only.
When | Was boy, bombazine was
almost Invariably used, in female s,tire,
for mourning | have never seen i
Worn, Ia any wise. in the United Ststes
IL sas softer, and had more silky look
and feel, than the fabric called altslca,
" Iich Is made Of the fine wool of lama.
or goat of Peru aud Chill. and Was Iirst
converted into textile fabric So recent
ly As the year lsii. 1t is chiefly used
Tor hight summer eats and for umhrel-
las
Another sllken fabric continues To be
used in ladies mourning. though bonn
iIazine has gone out If fashion This
Is craze, from q French word, which j.
spelt crepe aud with the circumtiex &C
cent over the first vowel. from the La
TN Word crssDus. curled. This fabric i,
largely manufactured in Norwich
Grape Is a light, transparent fabric,
composed from silk from which all the
gloss has been taken When dyed, as il
usually is, Of black color. it is used in
mournip. chiefly to tlounce and trim
ladies dresses, also as wells, and round
mems hats. In the naval and military
service, when officers wear mourning, 1t
is simply represented by four inch
band Of black Grape rouund the left arm
and bow o! Grape tied to the sword
scabbard.
For thin Grape, the only preparation
to which the fiaulcu,s Of silk are sub
jected. previous 10 the weaving, is the
simple twisting. which forms the first
process of the throwing mill. la This
state the thread is technically called
siHG'es
Wien it is intended Ia make more
substantial fabric the warp is made of
Two and sometimes three tilaments.
twisted together, which III that state Is
called trdia The weft is still composed
Of sIaglrs. The we'll known wrinkled
appearance of Grape is produced by the
application of a viscid solution of gum;
hence ri>h Grape dress will be utterly
rutucd IL two minutes or less by slight
water -pfinkle.
White orape is used in mourning
chiefly. believe, as broad strings
(which are never tied to that appalling
and fearfulIy frightful affair. the
widows head-dress. invented. l verify
believe. 10 make the bereaved woman
rs nuattraotive As possible. for a short
season.
Grape Is also used for scarfs, band !
kerchieis and some Dall room uresses-
,chae Grape, of course. 1t also forms u
portion. | understand. of the canonicsi
costume Of the higher clergy Of the
Church of England.
1t is weli-kuown, of course, that,
among the varieties Of woven goods in
which silk and wool are used III combi-
pa'Ion. what ia called Irish roplin
il one Of the best aud most esteemed.
Very little of the peplin brought into
the United States has been made IN
Ireland Poplin Is made with full
and round silken thread As the web,
and wor>ted or woolen thread as the
wouf
But there also is far better species
of roplin. called Irish tajiaef. which
very rarely tnds its way across the
Atlantic. This is truly superb fabric
-wstercd. brocaded. figured, or ,issued
made in Dublin only. Of pure silk
and the finest worstcd.
This textile owes its location in Dub
lin 10 the lIuguenots, who. when the
Edict of Nantes WAS provoked by
Louis XIV. III 1888, rushed ont Of
France IN thousands. A few, settling
III Dublin, set up their looms there, in
1898. aud invented poplin, which was
subsequently, improved into tahinet.
The demand Tor the finer fabric
(which has the merit Of never cutting.
never looking shabby and almost Of
never wearing ont has greatly increased
of late. IN Consequence OF an order
gwen hy the Duke of Marlborough
lately made Nioetoy Of Ireland, that a:
all the state receptions-levees, draw
ug-ro0ms, balls. concerts. garden par
ties anG dinners each lady shall be
attlred IN the production OF the Irish
looms.