The crisis. (Chillicothe, Livingston Co., Mo.) 1877-1878, 1877-12-20
HIGH HATS.
Why silk Hats Are Dear-EffOrts to re-
duce the Cost OF Production.

new j Ofk mOrlu,
For some time past there has been a
movement on foot among the silk.hat manu-
faCturers TO mcmOrialize Congress for the
abolition of the modification of the present
duty of 60 per cent. ad yalOrom on silk
plush, of which silk hats are made. Mr..
Robert Dunlap, of Dunlap e. Co., is one of
the active men in tae movement. He says
that before the war, when the duty was on.
ly 90 per cent, there was great deal more
plush imported than there is now, and the
revenue to the Government was proper
tonatey larger. Since the imposition Of
the present high rate and the consequent
increase in the price of silk hats, thei rsale
has materially decreased. The plush used
in the manufacture of these hats cannot be
used for any other purpose, but it is classed
in the tariff list with other kinds Of plush
which are employed for the manufacture
of dresses and other articles of wearing ap-
parcl
silk plush cannot he made in this corn.
try. A number of experiments have been
tried, and over $2jO,000 has been spent in
the effort to produce similar article here,
but they failed, though workmcn, looms,
and ndmaicrial were all imported from France
The reason for this is that our water has
certain chemical properties which, when
used for dampcning the silk prior to the
application OF the heating process which
imparts the glossy appearance, turns it
brown and spoils the material. The same
is true of English water, so that in England
ii has been found impossible to manutac-
turc six plush, which is all imported from
France, where one manufacturer in Ly-
ons supplies the whole world. The Amer
lean silk hat makers claim that, as the I'M
ported Frcch plush does not come in compc.
ton with any similar goods ofhomc make
the protective duty is unnecessary and un-
just
Yesterday number of manufacturers
met at the factory of Dunlap II Co., No.
l6O Mercer street, to take action in the
matter The trade was represented by
all the leading housrs of the city, among
them being Dunlap, Amidon Hunt y Du.
scnbery, Espencheld, Miller, and Becbe.
There was also representatives of the trade
from St. Louis, Chicago, Cincinnati, Bos.
ton and Philadelphia. A series of resolu.
tions was adopted declaring that the silk
hat trade is now in a deplorable condition
by reason of the heavy duty on silk plush;
that it is rated as a luxury and taxed GO
per cent when it should rank as raw
material and pay only 90 per cent, and
that unless this burden is removed the
manufacturers will soon be forced to close
their shops. The resolutions further de
clare that reduction of the duty on plush
to the old rate OF 20 per cent. would incrersc
the revenue by revival of business. The
meeting then appointed Mcssrs. Morris,
Dunlap and Cook committee to proceed
to Washington to lay the matter before
Congress, and urge the necessity of imme-
date relief.
1t is said that if the duty on silk plush
is reduced the immediate effect will be n
reduction in the price of silk hats. These
are selling now at 81 and IS in the best
stores, and in other stores, where they are
made up with inferior finish at So and 49,
If the duty on plush is modified the deal
ers say that it will be possible to sell the
hest silk hats at SIS, and even less.