The weekly clarion. [volume] (Jackson, Miss.) 1863-1882, 1877-10-10
Two Dollars a Year.
Fashions ina Costumes and Out
Door GaaFuAcuG~.

From our Special Corr, spoudent.I
NEW YORK, September 2S.-Fa-hjon, PR I.
sreelleHcs, Is never at home In New Y urk I
until November, and the exhibitions and I
displays which are made previous - that +
time must be regarded as the preliminary /
skimi>hiug of an advance guard, before the +
real army approaches,
, This the reason why STYLES, IS seen At the I
the fail openings IN millinery store rooms, I
and on the occasion of early public gather 4
iugs called fashionable are SO mixed, so
infinitely varied. - TO be problem % the
uniuitiated, who wish 10 get at precise facts. /
The fashions OF them selves are the work
of many minds, few Of which act upon any
knows principles OF art or taste. Cultva-
, ted people slit from the mass ot rubbish the
grains OF gold. and, out OF the multitaTtuus
and incougruous collection OF desig IN and
fabric coucriye always 10 present them
selves deeently and tittingy, and sometimes
beautiful clothed.
AUTUMN DESIGNS.
\ fall style. not very new. but one of the
. simplest and prettiest, consists Of a demi-
trained skirt and paletot i'm modified Bre-
, ton style of plain dark, rich fAllle, trimmed
with broad India galoon and shell buttons.
t The bodice is not made with the costume
d but enough silk accompanies IL 20 com lete
] the dress in any style preferred, so that it
l is really more advantageous than II finish
2 ed in some arbitrary fashion.
The costumes are made IN seal brown,
/ the new shades of dark green, and Russian
! gray. Navy blue has been So well worn
! that il i rather avoided in the making mp
: of new styles. \ Paris costume intend
: ed for fan wear consists Of long paletct
! reaching nearly To the bo.tom a. an ordina-
: ~ walking shirt OF rich black silk. Ia
i front piece i introduced IN the Breton
a style, but instead Of small buttons it Is out
Y lined with broad bands OF velvet, which are
I carried round the bottom And form straps
/ across the front rs far aS the knee. Hand
u somes houlder-kLot> ornament the top OF
Y the sleeves. ami passm entcrie ornament, ot
a. -YlT ion al re-
o I cuffs. the pockets and the upper front OF the
! garment. Below t the trained skirt shows
Il the trimming OF daisy paintings &C the back,
e and narrow upright rutlleS, divided with
: pjpinus In front These two parts consu-
;, tute the costume no bodice being required,
= excepting "A close vest, which should be at
. tached to the skirt.
Z DRESS TRAININGS.
The new trimmings are varied and very
& costly. In addition TO the heavy braids
r. and embroidered galOons, which have now
= taken secondary place, we nave rlch
glmps and passmenteries, arranged rs pa,
/ ques, military shoulder KNOTS SFale ana
1t sword kuots, ornamental fastenlngs ana the
It like.
! The passmenterie headings are, many OF
:, them, three or four inches in depth, ana are
IL studded with drop buttons, like acorns' the
manner of making perfectly reproducing
the natural fruit, or with little ttseels knot
ted and crimped, 50 a TO impart peculiar
| " feathery and graceful appearance 10 the
garment. which Is tHTlCDtu ny Alltlils
M French Jet trimmings, composed OF silk
crimped and mixed with small Cidir dc i1He
III amber. bronze, and blue jet beads, IN deel
lie fringes and round sells, held by "a sort O
Sc gimp cord, have made their appearance u
a. LARGE quantities and are used in protusIoi
= upon dinner dresses Of black pile and blacl
us Sicilian and black Antwerp silk cloaks.
at Feather trimmings are much less observ
'et able than for the Two years past, nut IN
To crimped silk ruching Is very graceful an'
- wonderfully effective substitute for teathe
TIC trimmings, and enjoys greater presuSei J
sr- made more full, and -, IN some instances
re elaborated and beautiiied by line oieNqns
,f tie embroidery. hand made and run throug
the middle upon the upper service OF IA
I'M silk. so that it is interwrouGht with tn
nd fabric of which the ruching Il composed.
If The soft rich ruching OF this description
Il embroidered and mounted, forms the mos
- beautiful and effective OF trimmings tor
he dinner or evening dress or sell -colored lalIl
US and already number OF orders have bee
av received for dinner and reception costume
:. of ivory. pale, amber and other delicate col
fors to be trimmed with silk ruching an
nc iardinier embroidery, executed upon I'll
TX fabric. For design in embroidery, sma
he leaves. fbrOus patterns, berries and acOrT
~ are preferred TO flowers. SILK, as trimmiu
'u' is largely u ed, but a strong EFFORT has bee
-op made to re-intrOduce velvet, and We find
ers in wide bands md borders upon cloaks
es colored cloth, and as leuRthwiSe stripes a
,ot ternating with silk In the composition
~ cloaks and dresses; also, velvet collars an
nv CuttS are largely tnDlONFu upon llEHA N'ea
lst. and almOp-tinted palctOts, and is used bot
ice as trimming and in the composition OF co
tune in the making up Of handsome bla'
suits.
A new kind OF plush, thinner than Il
ordinary plush, with dark ground wine
closely initiates fur, but into the surface
which white hairs are thickly introduced,
keS used as trimming for nne soft crmels Ia
with which it harmOniLes admirably. \
material and trimming, a. combined IN Il
lne way, make very stylish indoor dresses,
.ius well as light, warm, ana graceful COSTUME
exactly adapted TO later fall wear, with
felt hat and the long, undressed Kid gloY
nan in a lighter tint OF the color of the cloth
which the costume is composed. The ~
= balloons for dress trimmings have black
dark grounds, msroidered in India or +
sian patterns, and are more used for fine a
I'M wool material than for silk, although tn
L. trim silk very handsomely when II is
quired only as a wrapper or for indoor p'
poses. There are galioons of chea
in quality, on which the pattern Is executed
ess single color on dark ground, but tn
do not come under the category of ia
ion"
cad BUTTONS.
nan Buttons vary as much in size "a In
material of which they are compO-
Small round buttons Of silk, 70 match
To costume or its trimming, are among
best OF the unObtruSive styles; but eV
9 variety of darkly-shaded or irrdesc
pearl, dark tortoise she'll and ebony ~
ID an in order to satisfy the demands OF
ont modern necessity Of watching every de
in the design and material or the trimm
. of the dress.
ives THE NEW NAT AND THE NEW BONNET.
} no Whom the great millinery openings
wins the season have taken place, aud the n
! est and prettiest styles IN bOnnctS, p
Dut caps. and nOndescript articles in headl
as a are displayed. it is not to be supposed
4 of | we are to be confined TO one shape or
r1o,f haF- or a
the shapes are as multtudiuOus almos
act the sands upon tue seashOre. 1t long 4
men OF [Hua iacoi % a. 10 s,et tLe fr,r 70
are them, il must be because they are unaV
of their own peculiarities and their own
quirements, and not because they cal
Ousl- be met But there is always some 81
then aud one design which is distinctively !
OWs or new without being distinctive, and
hitch arates tSet rom IN tf r1 ha NY ~ or ug
IL at The specially new and distinctive style
the present season are a hat without b
told ~Princesse." for it is cut ali in one, wit
II our dividingli line between crown and brim, a
the simply a charming apotheOsis OF nuns
lings deT;oats ytita satin ar nlnsb. and trim
diff without lace. feathers or flowers. The
of the bonnet. or what constitutes an
right crown. is cut open aud a very nal
reyers shows the white lining, while
de of simple ornament bars it across; but
ersity is no trimming on the inside neither
IT, nor ruching, aud the fastening is eh'
~ with narrow double satin ribbon, tied
young bow at the side under the left ear. 3
The this sUpurb bit OF mOuastlc -plendoF
yever. severity all other millinery creations :
gh it INTO me anil
oHeI crowns, and no crowns at all. lueI
would brims turned up and brims turned q
ithout and brims which are wing-shaped anu y