, 1877-05-11
New York Fashions.
SPRING BoNNETs.

themselves, but are given ample size by
their abqndanttrimmings. The capote,
with soft\drooping crown, and the Nor
mandy, with high pointed crown, are
most often seen. More distinguished
looking than these are the broad square
crowns with close dropping fronts;
,,ointed Mother Goose crowns have dis
anpeared. Tuscan braids of deepest
straw tints, lace straws, Milans and Leg
horns are the choicest novelties; fine
French chips are also largely imported,
and are liked because they are light,
soft and pliable; but the love for the
novel and the scarce will make the vel.
low Italian braids most fashionable.
silk bonnets, plain on the frame, or else
gathered and shirred as capotes and
Sormandys, are also among the choice
selections. White bonnets, trimmed
with very light colors, are the rule for
straws: the exceptions are black chips
trimmed with the new light shades of
yellow, green, or red. Black lace bon
nets of plain or of figured net laid
plainly on the frame are among the
most elegant of the importations.
HOW TO TRIM SPRING BoNNETs.
The brims of straw bonnets are now
of fanciful patterns that do not need
binding or piping outside for ornament.
The crown bears most of the trimming.
If a regular Normandy crown of silk is
not used, the straw crown is left intact,
and bias gros grain is arranged on one
side or both to give the effect of the
pointed Normandy crown. Sometimes
only one side has this broadly folded
piece of silk, while the opposite land
usually the left side are flowers massed
as thick as possible, beginning in the
front and extending down to the back
of the bonnet. 1t is not unusual to see
eight, ten and even twelve roses without
foliage clustered together in this way.
and may be all dark red Agrippinas, or
else pale yellow Isabella sprouts, or
the golden Marshal Neil, or perhaps
they are shaped from pale rose pink to
deepest coral red, or, more often still,
they are varigated to show the fashion
able tints-Mandarine yellow, pink cor
al, and bright famine de Vesuve.
When roses are not used, there is side
garland in which some one flower pre-
dominates, either buttercups, Marguer-
ties, deutzia, or violets; or else thick
wreaths of natural grasses, clover, and
leaves made of rubber, extend down
the side. When the half garland is not
used, there is q bouquet of flowers Just
on top, and the new cache peigAe or
comb Of flowers is arranged across the
back at the end OF the crown; this is
sometimes merely three roses in a
straight row across the bonnet, while in
other cases it is a thick vine with a
fringe of buds dropping on the chate-
laine. In bouquets flowers Of strongly
contrasting colors are associated, as blue
forget-me-nots with yellow buttercups
and deep red roses; migonette, from its
perfect tilleul green shades, is combined
with almost every flower.
When ribbon is used for trimming it
is from two to three inches wide, and is
usually satin on one side and gros grain
on the other. It is arranged in great
clusters of loops with ends indented in
points massed on top of the bonnet, is
plain around the crown, and is crossed
behind to form strings, which are eth
er streamers at the back or strings to
tie in front, according to the wearer's
fancy.
Many of the finest bennets have cur
tain bands Of the braid behind, and the
crown is simply trimmed with similar
band of braid over an inch in width,
plped on each edge with satin, and
shaped into small bow on the curtain
band. 1t is in these fine pipings that
satin appears more often than in larger
masses in crowns and bows, as it is ra-
ther heavy for summer bonnets. Vel
vet is scarcely used at all.
There is very little face trimming in
any Of the bonnets, yet the greatest va
riety is seen there. Thus inside some is
asoft wreath made. of the crushed petals
Of roses torn from their stems. In an
other is an inch band of foundation
plainly covered with satin of some be-
coming color in which gold ornament
pinned. Others have a f7ll puff of
satin or of grOs grain. MAny have q
tnile ruehe with only color given the
sllk lining the brin. Three rows of
loops OF satin ribbon an inch wide is
another face trimming. One milliner
crowds ten roses of three shades inside
tnese close cottage brims. There are
Suaker-shaped bonnets absolutely with
out face trimming. Others are capotes
with two frills of straw lace almost as
nne as thread lace, and between these is
. satin bandeau of tilleul, famine de
sesuye, or other stylish shade. Twists
oi silk, knots, and bows, with half of
one color and half of contrasting
shade, are also used, but, like tulle
fuches, these are not new.
Ihere are no more monotone bonnets
showing several shades of one color.
from two to four colors appear on ev-
cry bonnet, and marked contrasts are
seen. Thus rose, pink and reseda are