The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1877-04-14

process of curtailing widths and reduc-
ing flowing draperies. The one object
of enthusiasm this spring is the Princesse
dress-a design which, handsomely mod
eled, may be used for an abundant vari-
ETY. of fabrics, with the question of APP
propriate garnitures left to each lady's
taste. The opportunity of making
over" which the Princesse affords is not
to be lost sight of, for, with Il good de-
sign, two and even three half-worn
dresses may represent decided novelty,
both in form and combination of color,
while a scant pattern is almost an adj
vantage, as it stimulates ingenuity and
awakens originality in the home circle.
While the back of a Princesse model is
almost invariably designed with polo
naise features, such as center-seam and
long side-forms reaching to the shoulder
and extending below the waist, after the
style of the early Marguerite design,
there are various shapes for fronts. One
fresh model shows diagonal form, with
the extension carried we'll around to the
side and foot of the skirt. Double darts
are placed in the fronts, the back is slen-
derby shaped, and the seams of the long
side-forms are extended well over the
hips; the drapery, meantime, is placed
very low, showing the length to which the
seams of the back extend. Ladies increase
the effect of this frightening by placing
whalebone in the seams, and by having
no lining in the skirt, or beyond the
depth of the hips. Another Princesse
model, taken from polonaise design
which, in fact, it is, extended and COM
pleted as costume-has but one dart in
each front, and the center. seam closes
with buttons and button-holes placed ex-
tremely close together. The back is
modelled after the prevailing design, with
long side bodies and the usual center
seam. The way in which polonaise is
extended to form an entire dress is too
simple to require an explanation, as it
must be apparent to anyone familiar
with models. Care Is taken to cut the
extension or facing the same way of the
thread as the polonaise, in order to secure
correct and graceful drapery.
Polonaises for the new fashion period
are modelled with reference to the fabrics
which are likely to be used for their
representation. For laundry material,
whether one or two darts are employed
in front, or whether the back is of the
English or domestic form, special care is
taken to make the bias portions SO that
they may be easily ironed, while the
draperies are so adjusted that they may
be taken out and replaced with perfect
ease. Other polonaise designs, which
will be extensively employed for summer
silks and grenadines, are more dressy
One which has already been made up in
brOcaded grenadine has double fronts
one overlapping the other in curved
and diagonal form, which is most effect
i've when trimmed with lace insertion
placed over ribbon, and lace used fol
bordering. The drapery at the back is
irregular, one side being quite unlike the
other. Another novel design which prom
ises to be popular for the white dresses
which will be SO fashionable this sum
mer is also handsome Two darts are
seen in each front, and the back is di
vided by narrow side-forms into pieces
The diagonal form of the front is new
and peculiar, extending from the top Of
the shoulder, crossing at q decided angle
and falling below the outline of the op
posite front, which is carried underneath
the diagonal in gathered form. The
effect of this is to provide wrinkleG
front, graceful and snowy. In all new
polonaises drapery loopings are not only
very low, but very far back, and pockets
are placed across the drapery lines.
Few changes are seen this spring il
Over-skirt design. A fancy for closing
| the front with buttons and button hole
is revived, giving an opportunity TO
using the former in clusters, placed dag
onally ON each side of the seam, or in
perpendicular form, setting the button
not more than an inch apart. Irregula
draperies, made by having odd number
of pleats in the sides, are decidedly ia
vOred, while for laundry materials a clus
ter of shirrs is seen ON the right side
covered by the pocket, while ON the lief
the cluster, placed higher, is ornamenteC
with large ribbon bow with ends, 10
Gated at the lowest point Diagona
fronts are as popular as ever, and tn
| square front-by no means a fresh desigl
has appeared this spring beautiful.
ornamented with wide galoon and fringe
In place of the scant back formerly be
longing to this model, a breadth of double
fold material or two widths of twenty
seven-inch fabric are substituted
There are few entirely fresh design
in basques this month. One is the habi
basque, showing square fronts, will
double darts, the back being noticeabl
stylish and handsome, designed mucl
like that of a gentleman's dress-coat
The extension at the back is eithe
simply finished and ornamented with but
tons placed as they are upon coat, or
large bow, giving greater femininity toit
general appearance. Another basqu
newly introduced is the Breton, in which
the vest is smoothly banded across tn
figure, the closing being made at thu
side. Darts placed in the vest adapt tn
garment to the figure, and the bacl
shows double side bodies reaching to tn,
shoulders. Hand embroidery is the mos
popular trimming seen upon Breton
basques, which are intended chiefly TO
the street, in the mode here described
No changes are observed either in col
larettes or in sleeves at present. An
/ 81 81, IL