The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1877-11-03
ALPINE GLACIERS.

i've hunureu miles into the sea. When | |
was at the Rhone Glacier twenty years
ago, we could reach 1t only on foot or on !
mules, and the bridle-path brought us to
the bottom Of the glacier, where we stood
and looked up and away to the towers
heights, where It's turrets and distant
glistened in the sun, reminding me of the
lines
''The City ofmy God see
Above the armament atar;
Its every dome MONDAY sun,
And every pinnacle q star.
But now, by the new road the most
formidable piece Of engineering in the
country, we come in carriage tothe same
level with these icy palaces, aud look into
their portals, aud go round about their
bulwarks, and survey without danger or
fatigue this marvellous spectacle. With
the sun blazing upon it, and on the un-
counted peaks Of mountains rising around
it, the sight easily surpasses in beauty and
sublimity any other scene in Switzerland.
We left Lucerue at 8 A. NJ, on one of
the lake steamers The Rigi was without
cap, and Pilatus bad on caps enough for
both. 1t was long supposed that poor
Pontius Plate came to sad end on this
mountain, and that his troubled spirit still
haunts it with tempest and lightnings
The story IS not now 50 generally believed,
but the storms and vapors continue just the
same. And the Lake Of the Four Cantons
is as lovely and grand and classical as it
ever was, despite those housing critics
who would prove that William Tell is a
myth. The mountains about this lake
rise so suddenly from its waters, the pas
sage from one bay to another are SO forth
fed by nature, that every mile Of the lake
is intensely interesting. 1t is very easy 10
believe that the three Swiss patriots met,
in the dead of night, on that sloping ledge
to concert measures for the deliverance OIL
their country. And their full length por.
traits on the wharf at Brunnen show what
sort of heroes they were. Tells chapel
tells where he leaped from the boat and
escaped from his tyrant Gessler, and forty
natives went ashore as we touched, t
make pilgrimage to the shrine
When we reached Fluellen, we took /
carriage for three days journey, and Al
IL o'clock were on our way to the hill
country. Altorf was reached in few
minutes, where William Tell shot the ap
pie on his boys head. That there ma,
be no doubt about it, he stands in a rud,
monument, with cross-bow in his hand
and frightful picture presents the tragi
scene. The same story is traditional il
other countries, and it is much better b
believe in two or even three Tells than il
none at ALL
At Amstey, ten miles farther up, w
endured a miserable dinner; we were pro
missed a chicken, but it was more like
crow that had died of famine. Now We
began in earnest The ascent of the st
GOthard pass that leads over the Alps init
Italy. 1t is a splendid road; by the rivel
Reuse, that comes roaring and tumbl;ne
from the mysterious heights and depths o.
these glaciers and fields Of perpetual snow
As we ascend, we find the beginnings Of
the railroad that is to scale these formida
bic walls, pierce the heart of rock, and
come out on the italian side A whole
village has suddenly sprung up Of Italian
laborers and their families, at work in the
tunnel Not bit like the Swiss were
these black-eyed, viyaciOus, rollicking sons
Of thesunny side of the Alps. They can
work but two on three hours at time ID
the tunnel, so foul is the air in spite Of
the pumps; then fresh relays Of men take
their places; and 50 the work goes on, L
be completed in three ycars, nine mile,
through. The enterprise and boldness d
such an undertaking has no parallel in any
railroad ventures in the country from
which we have come.
As we came to the narrow gorge which
is known as the Priests Leap, from the
fable that priest once leaped across il
with maid in his arms, five or six young
natives, each with rock on his or her
shoulder, suddenly appeared, and when
we had alighted andapproaehed the verge,
they let their burdens fall, and we watched
them till they reached the water in the
abyss. This is a regular entertainment to
which all travellers are invited, and the
little money the choppers pick up goes 4
good way in keeping them alive.t, amuso
the next comers.
The Devils Bridge is the most frightfal
scene on the road, where the rush Of
waters IN the torsuous and rocky channel
is 80 terrible that weaknerves cannot bess
the sight gift Yet IN this very spot the
Russians and French, and before that The
Ausirians and Swiss, have fought bloody
battles, contending for this mountain pass,
as at this moment the RUSSIANS and Turks
are struggling for the shipka ii the East.
We pissed the night At AuaerEhatt, ANA
IN the morning resumed our upward jour.
neg. This village is 1900 feet above the
Ieyel of the sea- Vegetation Is seant
lpasiusage i poor, the Inhabitants are few
ana fnr haf4rner -, AZ. .1....a 50