New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1877-08-25

THE COAST AND THE CAPITAL.


AND AKErARD-TIfE OPERA HOCsE-TnE CHURCH
OF NOTgE DAME.
CFKou sTAFF CORRESPONDENT oF THE TnHUNB.l
PARIS. Aug. at WIS a beautiful afternoon IN
July when the writer first saw the shores OF France
The British Chamel-a most distressfu water when
r1ugh-had been in unusual pleasure. Ike hlhg
Duncan 50 that observation. with extended
view" could look with interest and without nausea
on Oh. Deope coast it rose into sight across the
surges. This coast seemed like the Palisado hank
Of the Hndson River, and prompted thoughts OF
home II IA high ard PERCEPTIONS, and on one OF tS
windy hills little church is perched in picturesque
Loneliness 10 the left OF fhc stone harbor into which
the apuroachire steamer glidcs. At Dieppc, as ut
most of the Channel ports, long pier projects INTO
the sea- and this was thronced with spectators Us
onr boat steamed mp to her moorings. ON shore a
sufly Frcnchrian augTily asked us II we were Eng
ish." and seemed to imply that We were we might
make sure of possessing his cordial ana entire de-
tcstatIon. To humor his cock-sparrow mood. an
svycred that we were AMI we then went aboard the
railway train for Paris, with much laughter but
without . particle Of the official good will The
ride TO Pans from Dieppe is charming. The
road passes through Rouen aud MP the Valley
OF the Seine. The sky that day was as blue
and sunny as ever is in our own brilliant Ameri-
ca Tue dt Ndo HDli '''if 't'ih wv '''h' 80
France were lovely with rich color and generous
with abundance of golden crops. Now and then We
passed little hanlets made up Of matched cottages
clustered around little church, with sad, quaint
place Of graves. Sheaves Of wheat were stacked in
careless piles in the meadows. Rows Of the tall, 1.-the
Lombarly popar-so like the willowy girlsof France
flashed by, and rows Of the trcmulous silyer-eaf
maple. Sometimes we SAW rich bits Of garden
ground. gorgeous with geraniums and with many
of the wild flowers neglected, for the most part III
other countrie,l which the French know 50 well how
to cultivate and train. In some fields the reapeTs
were ut work: in Others women were gulding the
plough; in Others The sleek cattle and shaggy sheep
were couched IN I'pose, or busy with the heritage;
and through this smiling Land the Seine h'"cd
peacefully down, shining like FURNISHED silver At
Roueu we caught n glimpse of tha round tower ana
two spires of the famous cathedral which Is there
esteemed one OF the best pieces of Gothic architect
ure in Europc Just beyond Rouen, on the eastern
bank OF the Seine the hills take, and for many miles
preserve the shap OF natural Notifications. Iigzng
PATHWAYS wand mp tlc faces of these craes. chapel
crowns one IF the lofticst SUBMITS. Cottages nestle
in the Wales below. 4 few gamt windmiiis stTetch
forth their arms upon the distant hills Every rood
OF the land Is cultivated, and here, rs in England,
the scarlet peoples brighten the green. while cosy
he lgc-rows make the landscape comfortable TO the
fancy rs well rs pretty TO the eye, with sense OF
human compauiopShip
In the cleaning we flded into Paris, and before
ye had been there two hours we were driving M the
Champs EIy,trs and thinking Of the Arabian
Nights. IL wonid be idle 10 deseant on the French
capitaI. Nobody can know, without seeing tn m,
how glorious and imperial the Tcat features of Paris
are. Ny FIRST morning there was a Sunday and il
e. I,--e ina
ne singing OF birds, the strains of mIsic from pass
iag bonds. and-sse many sights and sounds which
in every direction bespoke the cheerfnlness Of the
people. l went that day to q itie in the BoIs de
Vinconncs, where from noon till midnight great
thronr took it, pleasure in the most orderly simple,
chldlke manner and where ! saw picture in
little" of the manners of the French. II q pc
uliar pleasure while in Paris, % rise at ycry early
hour iE The morning and stroll through tie markets
of -. Honorf. IL winch flowers have at least IN
canal place with more substantial necessities OF life,
aud where order and ncatucss are simply made per-
feet il was pleasant, also. and somewhat sad, 70
walk IN the gardens OF the Tuarcs, in those early
and rather lonely hours, and 30 mise aHd moraiize
over the downfall Of the dynasty Of. Napoleon.
These gardens, formerly tho private grounds Of the
emperor are now Omen 80 the public and streams
Of labareis. clothed in their blue blouses, pour
through them every day. They are rapidly rcbuild-
ing thaI part Of the luilcries which was DESTROYED
by the Commune; and in fact, though only SIX years
have sed since the last bloody revolution devAs
tated this capital. but little trace remains OF the
ravaCes Of that Wild time. The Arc de Inomphe
still stands IN solemn majesty; the Column |end0me
towers toward the ky: the golden Egurc seems stil
IN the act of light rom The top OF the colamu Of
the Bastie. I saw in the Church of Notre Dame the
aamcut,-stained with blood and ridd.ed with bull
lrts--t at were worn 10y The Archbishop Of Paris,
when DE- was murdered by the GOOD friends Of Liber-
iy. Equality and Fraternity; and saw, with enthu-