Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1877-10-03
LIFE IN VIENNA.

IRA aAle-Tne GfhDen aud ltS
ShOps-FAst WOmen-A VlenneHe
Funeral = Maxmilliam'g Coffin -
RemnaBts of tho Exhibition Of
IS73-A Cooks Exploit.
Special Cor. Philadelphia Evening Bulletin. ]
VIENNA, September r. The
kaffeehaus, bier halle and condot-
teri play prominent part in Wen
ma life. These resorts are found
everywhere, and of those in new
Vienna many are most inviting.
The choice places are outside, un-
der the awnings, or within the slen-
der hedge Of plants-not in gar
dens, button the streets. There the
Viennese sit, with hats off, newspa-
per in one hand and cigar in the
other. On the table is an ice, beer,
or the rich coffee with its whipped
cream. They sit for hours, read
ing paper after paper. Every cafe
is provided with any number of
journals, on light rattan holders,
and everybody reads them. After
the coffee has been disposed of, the
garcon removes the waiter, and
brings another with two glasses Of
water. Why they give each person
two glasses of Adams ale is more
than your correspondent can solve,
and it is especially curious, as Wen
ma is the only city yet where they
have not seemed surprised to be
asked for water to drink. Blythe
by, the water here is really fit to be
tasted, which cannot be said of many
continental cities.
STREET PANoRAMAs.
1t is a hackneyed old saying that
"when you are in Rome you must
do as Romans do" which is all very
well if the Roman habits should be
agreeable. But believe me, reader
it is not hard to like the ways Of
Vienna. So let us take a va.
cant table at q kafeehaus on
the Graben and watch the pano.
rama. The Graben is a rather
broad street about three block;
long, in the very heart of the
city. 1t is lined with elegant
shops, where you can dispose oi
any amount of cash that your let.
ter of credit can bear. On it is
the establishment of one of the
Heisses, the renowned meerschaum
manufacturing family. Another
of the same name is on the Kaerth
nerstrasse. Close by the former il
the tempting display Of rich leather
and bronze goods of a noted house
whose name | will not mention
because it declined to exhibit a
our great show last year. Then
alittle further along is the Uni
versum, where swine, women anG
song" prosper, and can be studied
by gaslight during the same hours
At the other end Of the stree
rises the grand Gothic Spire of the
Cathedral Of st. Stephen. Mex
dot the ground with soldiers, civil
ians, women, wagons, itinerant
yenders and beggars to complete
the picture. Now we will make
the living part of the panorama
move, and almost Immediately your
attention is attracted by the mum
Der, the beauty and the carriage o.
the demi monde. All day long, az
well as during the evening, tn,
sharp tap of their high heels il
heard on the Graben, and man,
there are among these womei
whose distingue appearance, in
stead of degrading them, should
have been their fortune.
May be as you rest, slipping the
coffee, a sadder picture is presented
Hats are lifted, and an ostentatiou
funeral procession passes. A gaud,
hearse is drawn by four horses
with costumed groom for each
Following come ten or a dozeI
lackeys In black knee-breeches
dress coats, sashes and cooked hats
each bearing a large lighted candle
Huge, graceless coaches, draped il
black cloth follow, each driven by
man arrayed like the torch-bearers
| also saw one funeral where tn,
hearse was a mass ,of blue merint