The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1877-06-21

~ nONNc0 y tnot II Ii NOS 81 upon inc
skirt, but the skirt ID cut Oh and the
flounce sewed to The edge. Palmer man.
Book dfeesee heve no Jokes, but the whole
waist y tucked from the neck down, and
w skift y IN one piece with the Wsist.
Box. plsen with flne tucks betweeil make
Simpisf diesass than fh5gs Just d.
sciibed, and MORE stylish becatise mofe
Slihgin&; ate made with .bo4.pleatl ft0m
HE neck d6wh ID within TO u three
inches Of tie edge 81 the skirt; and I'm
ished with Spanish founce. They have
NO yoke; and the only seams are those
ttndtt eaGh ard. Tie Material ii flrst
sewed Permanently III three box blgats,
each nearly two inches Wide; with q space
Between, and is then cut out BY long
sacdue pattern. The gafment fastens be-
hind under the middle box pleat. The
pleats and dounce are most effective when
the pleats are not sewed all the way to
the top Of the nounce, and this is done
in snowy little white dresses Of fine mus.
lin, but for cambrics, ginghams, and
linen lawns that are to be often laundried,
mothers stitch the box pleats all the way
down to tie founce; bias band of the
cambria il then used as q heading for the
dounce. These lengthwise box pleats
must not be stitched on the edge, but are
merely sewed in the middle once, opened,
and pressed hst1y. Dresses made in this
way are worn with or without sashes, &C.
cofding to fancy. The skirts reach near
~ 10 the top OF the butt0ned shoe, but
must be short enough to show something
of the colofed stocking. The sash and
stockings, also the hat trimming, match
in colors, and may be either plain solid
color or else have white bars on cardinal
red, brown, navy blue, or else very pale
blue. The colored stockings are clicked
in bars on the instep, or in lines up the
sides, halfway to the knee, and are of
solid color above. Pale blue and rose
colored stockings are very popular. Ecru
Balbriggans clicked with colofs are the
only white stockings now worn, as col
ored hosiery is Used with white dresses.
Little girls do not wear pique dresses
as much as formerly, the fine soft WOOL
ems and flannels with white lace trim
mings being Used instead. Piques
are still made, however, with princesse
fronts and backs as far down as the hips,
where kilt rleating is set in the back, and
sash is used to cover the join; the sash
may be of pleated pique or Of ribbon.
Repped piques are preferred to all others,
and the trimmings are embrOideries and
Smyrna lace.
Fine twilled WOODS and basket woven
stuffs in colors are now imported for chill
dren's dresses In light qualities that are
not warmer that pique, and do not soil so
easily. These are made up in the prin-
cesse styles and the Breton dresses, with
all the weight suspended from the shout
ders, and in one piece, SO that the skirt
cannot be always separating from the
body, nor is the little figure confined by
the belt. Newer still than these is the
fancy just imported from Paris of making
these dainty woolens up in the simple
box pleated sacques described above for
cambria and bingham dresses, and finish
ing them with the inevitable Spanish
founce. The upper part, which comes
in nearer contact with the body. is lined
throughout with soft white muslin. The
neck, sleeves and founce are trimmed
with Smyrna insertion and lace, either all
white or partly colored; the insertion, as
well as the lace, is laid plainly on the
colored goods without gathers, and is
more effective thus than when edging it
merely, or when the material is cut away
beneath the insertion. Cream-color, rose.
tilleul, pale blue, and navy blue wool
dresses are made in this way. Garments
similarly made, but slightly shorter, are
used for wraps or walking coats, with
white dresses showing beneath. There
wooden goods made gay with braids and
strings Of buttons. These have square
collars and square pockets.
%kp fivck cJ.o rf 81 ft,
close cottage caps of plain white muslin,
made over white or coloIed silk Innings,
and trimmed with insertions and edgings
of Valenciennes lace, or else the partly
colored torchon lace. More muslin and
less lace is used in those caps than was
formerly done. Girls of two years and
upward wear sailor hats of colored striped
straw, with the brim faced with colored
satin slightly pulled on, and band and
streamers to match. Cardinal red sailor
hats are very much worn. 1t is the fancy
to set these hats on the back of the head,
as old sailors wear them. The front hair
is bang ed'' in short fringe on the fore
head, and the back hangs loose and flow
ing. Other most picturesque hats for
small girls have the brims turned up in
front and rolled against the high. round
crown, while the back of the brim is
turned down. These have striped straw
crowns, while the brim is a plain color.
There are also charming little Japanese
hats of satin straw, made as fiat as din
ner-plate, and trimmed with bouquet of
flowers set far to the back of the center.
The sashes worn all around the figure
must be very wide, and show nearly their
whole width in front. They are passed
loosely around halfway down the skirt,
and hang in a long Topped bow behind.
Shoes without heels are worn by all small
children. Haaper's Bdsar