Yorkville enquirer. [volume] (Yorkville, S.C.) 1855-2006, 1877-11-01
The fart1 and fireside.
CULTIVATION OF STRAWBERRIES.
The following seasonable article was writer

The following seasonable article was written
some years ago, by the late DR.. D. H. Jacques,
then residing at Charleston, South Carolina {:
In this climate, strawberries may be planted
at any time, from September 1st to March lst,
with different degrees of success; but we think
November the most favorable season, and
shall, therefore, offer some brief hints, drawn
from experience in their cultivation, with spe-
cal reference to planting.
Where choice of soil is permitted, choose,
if possible, rather low and moist (but not
wet) piece of ground, and having slight in
clination toward it. These conditions favor
drainage, and facilitate watering, if that
should be required.
A deep, rich, sandy loan is, all things con-
sidered, the best for most Of the varieties in
general cultivation, but almost any soil, from
the lightest sand to the stiffest clay, may be
brought into condition to produce excellent
crops. Whatever the character of the soil,
it must have depth. This may be considered
as an absolute essential, and if naturally lack
ing, must be supplied by artificial means.
In all cases the ground set apart for straw.
berry bed, should be deeply and thoroughly
prepared-not broken up merely, but well
pulverized. Where large patch or field is
to be planted, this may be done by plowing,
cross-plowing and narrowing. If the soil is
not naturally deep and friable, subsoiling to
the depth of fifteen or sixteen inches should
be resorted to. In the garden, the ground
should be prepared with the spade, or, what
is better, the spading fork, and worked over
till free from Jumps.
Northern writers on strawberry culture re-
commend heavy manuring with stable ma
nure. Their advice in this, as we'll as in sew
eral other particulars, becomes erroneous and
unsafe, when applied to strawberry growing
in our hot, dry climate. Here very little
stable manure should be used at the time Of
planting, and that little must be we'll rotted
and thoroughly mixed with humus or vegeta-
BILE matter. Ifthe soil is naturally very poor,
it should have been we'll enriched the previous
season by the application of animal manures:
Leaf mold, from the woods, or the we'll rotted
refuse which should accumulate in the garden
compost heap, with good ashes at the rate of
bushel or more to the load, added in the
heap and thoroughly mixed, is excellent.
Swamp muck, dug out the previous season,
and frequently stirred, may be composted
with onefourth of its bulk of stable manure,
and one or two bushels of ashes to the load,
and will do nearly as we'll on light soil. On
heavy, cold soils, a larger proportion of stable
manure is allowable. The objections to ami
NAL manures in our climate, and especially
on our prevailing sandy soils, are: First, that
they promote more luxuriant growth Of
vines than is consistent with the most prolific
fruitage, or the highest quality of the berry !;
and second, that the liability to injury from
drought is increased by the application.
The quantity of manure to be applied will
depend partly upon the previous condition of
the land, and partly upon the variety of berry
cultivated. For Victoria and Triumph de
Grand you can hardly manure too much.
Wilson and Longworth's Prolific need less
manure.
The fertilizing material should be dug or
plowed in, and thoroughly incorporated with
the soil, as the roots of the plant soon 6ll the
whole bed.
In field culture, or where horse or mule
and a cultivator are to be used in cultivating
the crop, the rows should be three feet apart.
Law them off with shovel plow, running
very lightly SO as to form shallow trenches
say from an inch to an inch and half in
depth and one foot in breadth, following with
a hoe to make them even and smooth. For
garden culture, make, with light hoe, simi.
lar trenches, two feet apart. This arrange
ment not only gives the plant the full benefit
of the rains that may fall, or the waterings
that may be given them-an important point,
especially on our sandy soils-but it has other
advantages, as will appear in the sequel.
The plants should be from runners of the
same seasons growth, we'll rooted and vigor-
Gus. Remove the dead leaves and lay out
the plants Gin the shade) in small bunches
with the roots together. Now, having pre-
pared in suitable vessel batter composed
Of equal parts Of fresh cow-dung, vegetable
mold and wood ashes of such consistency as
to adhere to them, dip the roots of your
plants-each small bundle by itself-in it in
such way as to thoroughly coat them with
the mud. This is called "puddling' or
"grouting" They are now ready for plant
ing.
Some writer's lay great stress upon the sup.
posed Importance of carefully spreading out
the roots, so that when planted they shall be
as nearly as possible in their natural position.
When planting on large scale this is utter
" impracticable, and we do not think it
makes much difference. In planting trees
grape vines or other plants whose roots are
more permanent, We would insist upon this as
strenuously as any one, but we have observed
that in whatever way the strawberry may he
planted, it soon puts out new roots on every
side, when the old ones decay and drop off,
so that whether these old roots be spread out
into their natural position or crowded in the
form of pigs tail into round hole, is
matter of comparative little consequence; 80
having grouted our plants as described, we
make deep holes with dibble, in the centre
of the trench or shallow furrow, insert the
roots up to the crown of the plant, and with
the blunt end of the stick press the earth
about them, being careful that the operation
shall leave no cavity at the bottom of the
hole. In this way they can be very rapidly
planted but to work to the best advantage
three hands are requred-one to make the
holes, one to drop the plants, and the third to
plant them. Thus planted, the plants being
fresh and in good condition, they will require
no watering unless the ground be very dry /;
a cloudy day, however, should, if possible, be
selected for planting.
The distance apart of the plants in the
rows may vary with the richness of the soil
the variety planted, and the kind of cultiva-
ton to be adopted, but from twelve to fifteen
inches may be considered a good general
rule.
Mulching is the placing of mulch or litter
of some kind upon the surface of the soil
over the roots of the plants. Its most prom