The Leavenworth weekly times. [volume] (Leavenworth, Kan.) 1870-1880, 1877-12-27
TIE FASHIONS.

Uf heavy felt ctOtn- IL forms paielOt
crossed in front, with turned-dOwn collal
and revers, and two rows of large buttons
The ''tailleur" style Is also employed FOL
ordinary suits, princess dresses, and polo,
naises. The outer garments consists of )
small straight paletot, made on the above-de
scribed principle. The material chosen is
cloth in a subiued color, such as navy blue
or Prussian green, unless English tartar
with blue or green check is preferred. A.
the latter material is OF rath, fancy char
acter, it will not come into very general use
The ''tailleur" style of dress has often iron
9 to ii rows of stitching on the borders
These rows OF stitching vary in number ac
cording to the part OF the garment upor
which they are placed. There is naturally
more Of this stitching employed for the
skirt than for the end OF the cuff. For :
princess dress and polonaise the draperie,
must he slight. The best way Of fastening
the plaits is by means OF large Hat button.
either OF wood, nickel, IVORY, or shell, and
varying according 10 the material of which
the garment IL Dsade. Ii is very likely thai
to this mascul ne stvle Is attributable th,
prevalence al black or brown felt hats called
melon" This shape is not al all TO be re-
commended.
Square low necks, and sleeves termina-
ting at the elbow, will be most worn this
Winter. PlastrOns are used Tor most of the
waists; they are over the breast
and IN the back, aud children's suits have
as many plated plastrons as ladies' toilets.
These plastrons are very great improve
ment upon wooden suits. \ favorite trim
-. V,,rf.s = -,
squares, with silk plaiiinss underneath.
Tinted silks, instead of bright, decided
colors, are more and more worn in fact
such colors "a pink, green, blue, and yellow
are scarcely To he seen. FOR those persons
who defer the plain style oil dress, black,
white, and pearl colors are chiefly reSorted
to. Ii beaded gailoon is employed, hand
some jet beads are used, or even clair de
lune; but the more eccentric kinds, such
as .'ilamme de punch" 'Vesuve," or ''soleil
couchant," beads are never used. The
'scarabee" bead is another article employ
ed exclusively for the numberless different
green materials now in vogue.
The favorite dressy Winter suits, are
made OF veiaurs frappe on satin ground
ing. Although these yelvets do not make a
dress, they a'e, notwith-
standing. much in Use, and no fashionable
lady's wardrobe will be consided as COM
plete without one OF them. These dresses
will be made, principally, in different
shades Of green. They are much trimmed
up the front II the front of the dress does
not consist OF band OF this fancy velvet,
extending down the whole front OF the
polonaise, thus forming the vest and apron,
the dress is trimmed with "barettes" OF pas
sementerie, rich embroidery, or gslloon work
ed with all kinds of metal beads Almost
all the rich materials are combined with
plain velvet, the latter being used for the
revers of the tunic, the large pelerine col
lars and, the bias bands forming the boz
ders. The velvet must always be in the
darker shade OF the figure in the velvet,
while the faille trimmings, bordering the
squares. or the bias bands, are in the light
shade OF the grounding Satin is scarcely
ever used alone at present, but is combined
with velvet.
Persons who 10 not admire the different
shades OF green so fashionable at present,
can have seal color instead. Bands 81 seal
skin as trimming are extensively employed.
Cachemire de flnde and faille suits, bor-
dered with sealskin in place of galloon.
make elegant suits. This fur is also used
to trim beige cloth, but other furs are pre-
ferred to sealskin for light materials. Par
isian ladies are not as partial TO sealskin
sacques as the English and Americans, the
French limiting their Use of the fur to trim
ming purposes There is distinction now
made in sealskin, the two kinds being called,
respectively, Summer and Winter sealskin.
One is deeper brown than the other, and
handsomer. There is to be had kamschat
ka sealskin, which, however, is very rare.
As already stated, their principal use is con-
fined to bands, deep cuffs, and Richelieu
collars. Ladies also wear sealskin caps.
For Partisan gentlemen this fur is made
into vests and bands to border the garments,
with collars and cuffs to match.
Among the furs this year is 4 great va
riety Of imitation Cats and rabbits skins
are dyed and adorned with a variety OF
names Some of these limitations are very
pretty, and enable many persons. to have
furs who couid not afford to buy the real ar
ticie. Skunk, the prettiest of all ordinary
furs, is not expensive, and for this very
reason is not much used by the fashionable
world Castor dies. Indies, or false castor, is
oiack' sP3,'ed WIN VIZ 90, ,hn band
somer furs, such as blue fox, silver fox, and
sable. For Innings Prussian cat-skins and
white fox are used. Long, round boas will
be worn, fur "Directoire" collars, cuffs, and
small pelerines. The Russian paletot, Dor
ueIei VIII ~ ~ -, IL ao.
'on''or T taoie '. -. .. ialb;a.a
i I,n II. pei Ias, W., s " "
'ie as II ""' last " in'
Heavy felt-like and plushy materials are