New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1877-04-10
NEW PUBLICATIONS.
ARNnLn,S THROUGH PERSIA.

commenced in the Autumn of 1875, and lasted until
the month of February in the following year. Ac-
companied by his wife Mr. Arnold left London IN
the previous Summer, and travelling through Poland
10 ST. Petersburg and from the Russian capital TO
Astrakhan. traversed the Caspian Sea from extreme
north to south and rode the whole length of Persia
n distance Of more than thousand miles There is
but one mode of travelling in the interior OF Persia
In ordinary cases carriages are out OF the question.
They must be attended by sufficient NUMBER vi
men to lift them over places which are otherwise
impassabe. 1t was with the help OF such bearers
that the Shah was able to accompany his carnage
The traveller may take his choice between puSlhs
horses and mules, hiring all the animals ho It.
ouires from mulcteer. If he decides to purchase
he has to pay about fifty dollars each, and to pro
vide pack-saddles and riding saddles with grooms
10 take care of the animals In the latter case,
The horses will not be so good looking, hut
Int they will know the road, and be quite as SAFE III
riding over rough places. The cost of mule mred
in this way is about dollar day for ten days
march, One may travel "chapar" or caravan
the latter being to the former as freight tram 10 eN
press Those who travel with heavy baggage can
not travel "chapar." but must form caravan
marching at the rate of about three Ehes an HouI,
which is as fast as mules can walk. For men and
women who suffer from being so long IN the sadoie'
an arrangement called kerjava" Is provided, con-
SlStlng OF TWO very Hhidh egF0S VINO w.
bands of wood bent in circular shape. and COW
cred with shawls or carpets. The kerjavas are
slupa like panners across the saddle of strong
,nule and in each of the tents man or woman SITS
cross-lcgged, or with feet hanging out The open
side is sometimes turned to the tail of the mnie ana
the rider cannot see where the animal Is gong Inc
keriaya may be suspended over a precipce on the
edge of which the feet of the mule have but dan
gerous hold or 10y sudden collision with ahother
mule one keriaya is thrown over the mules back
upon the other and both fall heavily to the ground
superior style Of carriage, called takht-i-raWan
carried by two mules is used by the stately danes
Of the Shal's court by the aged and inIIn, ana by
the ladies of the foreign embassies.
The Persian muleteer, who was to furnish Mr. Ar
mold with animals for the journey, presented ch'h-
acterisic specimen Of Oriental life lie was man
abont middle age whose hair and mustache, naiu-
rally dark were dyed coal-black with compound
of indigo and kLenna. He was shaved across the
back of the head the side hair forming curl behnd
the ear. He wore a red turban around bun Skull
CAP his legs were bare to the knee, and ms SOCKS
and sandal shoes bore marks OF much tfaVel.
green cotton tunc concealed most of lis loose blue
drawers and over all he long garment OF pale
yellow lined with red cotton, and bound about his
waist with scarlet sash. The muletecTS will never
commence Journey on a day which they consider
unluckv Mondays aud Fridays are always to be
avoided in arranging for march. Inc hTst day. IL
takes great deal Of trouble to get caravan inr-
ther than two hours ride or eight miles from tie
town Mr.. Arnold had fortunately selected Tues
day. as the day for the start to which there was
no objection. At the appointed hour, the
mules made their appearance saddled ana les
tooned with ropes to be loaded for the first time
1t was work of great moment. Everything must
be nicely balanced The high. heavy pack-saddle
Il, ,,,,. yCpars 11V and night. and which
for weeks together is never removed except for a
few minutes at the end of the days march, when the
beast goes through hasty grooming, must be deity
loaded so as not to sag over on either SIDE Inc
muetecr whose waist now enclTcled by a
thong of leather in addition to the saShes wound
twice round his body, ending in about foot OF iron
chain. curiousy scanned every box and package,
and with skiilful hands arranged the burden. ihe
iron chain dangling from the waist is the WHIP III
common use. Ii was worn bright with handling and
with cruel application 10 the legs of the mules The
grooms, who accompanied the caravan, were also
provided with thongs and chains of the same sort.
When the second mule was loaded, it was evident
that he was to lead the procession. He covered
with a score of bells, which were always ringing,
two of which suspended from the saddle were
almost big enough for a stcople. and mace
a tremendous calgGr The head servant and COOK
was the next to come upon the scene lie was
aTTayca IN lUi travelling costume, glrt Win SNORT
straight sword and his long legs incased i'll yellow
leather. lie loads his mule with saddIe-bagS, and
upon these places large cushion made OF his pillow
and ove1caats, and then throws himself upon the
neck of the mule aud struggles TO the high seat
from which his legs dangle in the orthodox Persian
fashion. Tic caravan is ready to start. Tic
string of horses and mules is loaded with beds and
bedding. carpets, tables, folding seats, cooking
utensils, and ali the glass and crockcry needed for
the simple meals required in Il land where any pro-
vision beyond an empty room and pillow OF
straw is absolutely mattainable. The first stage
was through deciOusly green forest, extending
TO the barren ground toward the ElburZ mountains,
on the way TO Tehrran. Near sunset. "A small
opening in the forest led to building, with not a
soul in it, looking like old brick barn that had
long been deserted and had fallen into ruin. This
proved to be the only station for many miles,
and was 20 be the restng-7lace for the night.
There were two apartments with walls and floors
of cay. The window frames were broken and the
glass had fallen out. One room was full of bTambes,
collected by former occupant Tor fuel. IL the
other there were holes in the floor nearly larcc
enough fog a CUES; to fall through into the mule
shed beneath. 1t was the work Of half IN hour 70
clear the better room of the brGmbeS, to collect
bricks from the RUNS with which to stop tie holes
in the fcor sweep the place thoroughly TO spread
the floor with Persian carpets aud after filling the
empty windOw-framcs with green bOuglis to set up
the beds A stream Of water was al hand, aud there
was an unlimited supply Of iirewOod The cook
(Houssein by namel soon managed to cXtemporzc
brick stove, aud the cracking OF the fire brought
together q viain0us crowd of men and children in
rags, who seemed drawn from the very ground by
the smell of mutton and chicken in the stewpaus