The Portland daily press., 1877-12-13
Correspondence of Harper's Bazar.l
Paris Fashions.

1t is quite certain that what is styled the
grand robe or dress all in one piece, will be
the prevailing fashion tlis winter. This is
composed of long polonaise almost always in
prineesse shape. The lining, which is cut of
muslin or silk from the polonaise pattern, and
is covered on the bottom with handsome silk or
with the same material and trimmed with
founces or ruches, is sewed together with the
polonaise. The trimming on the bottom of
the lining takes the place of the skirt which
was tormef0 worn under the polonaiss. This
trimming is either made of plain sik to match
the material employed for the polonaise, or
else it is of the same material as the latter.
The general appearance is alw ays that of q
long polonaise worn over q separate skirt; but
this toilette is perhaps the NEST economical, IS
the skirt is merely simulated The dress is put
on in one piece, which is convenient; but the
chief thing after all, is that it has received the
sanction of Dame Fashion.
The bottom of the sleeve is no longer trimmed.
The broad collars and deep cuffs have been
adopted Ia good earnest by all ladies. The
small straight linen collars and masculine
cuffs which were worn so long inside of the
sleeves are no longer employed except for
neLlgee teilettes, such as are worn for shopping
in the morning and for travelling dress. Slesves
OF dinner dresses hardly reach to the elbow, and
are finished by two rows of deep white lace.
The under edge of these almost short sleeves is
merely trimmed with a sort of flat torsdde of
ribbon terminating in bow. This sleeve can
not be worn with an entirely high waist
but always accompanies a waist cnt square,
round or pointed.
For evening toilettes with long trains the
pettlcoat IS always OF stiff muslin trimmed
with narrow lace on the bottom. 1t is made
extremely fiat on the hips, and without any
trimming in front and on the sides; but in the
back, four inches from the belt begins sue
cession OF hounces, the first measuring only
four inches in length. the second two inches
in length, and so on to the under edge in such
way as to support and spread the back
breadths Of the robe. frequently these fiounces
are mounted on separate breadth of muslin
which Is buttoned on the back breadth on each
side. This Is for convenience in washing and
ironing the fattened founces.
l The Ldnlodtte redingote is simply the polo
nalsa with which we are familiar worn with
small double cape or Carrick, made of the
formation sometimes A novelty does not
always imply new article. 1t is undeniable,
in spite OF reports to the contrary put In circu-
latlon during the summer, and which dis
creolted II am not mistaken, that the toilet
| IS and will remain elinging, drawn back, and
narrower than ever this winter
The princesse dress has been definitely
adopted for visiting toilettes even when not
| very dressy and ceremonious The prettiest
combination is the following: The dress made
OF faile or of velvet is trimmed in front from
the shoulder to the bottom with bands of pas
samenterie with grelots. OF these perpendic-
ular bands there are three on the waist and
i've on the skirt, proceeding from the hips; a
similar band is set along the seam of the
sleeve from the top to the bottom. In the
back, along the line where long paetot would
terminate, is similar horizontal baud, set on
asif trimming the under edge of the latter.
Above this band on each side is a similar short
band, Stimulating pocket. For the street a
long mantle without sleeves is flung over this
dress, which is thrown aside before entering
the drawing room. This is merely q princesso
dress. but the trimming which have Just de-
scribed stimulates paletot in the back
Bonnets have never before been so varied in
shape. Every lady wears different bonnet.
One is in the shape Of a small capote; another
is toque, or else has broad brim turned up
on one side. Bonnets of velvet. felt, tulle,
gauze, lace, plush, silk. crepe de Chine-in
word, OF every thing-are seen at present. The
favorite style just now is a trimming composed
OF two birds wings Of gilt metal on dark hat
OF velvet or felt for a comparatively 7aSqliqse
toilette. Full-dress toilettes have bonnets of
velvet in light shade, or of very costly white
lace mingled with soft serge silk.