The Anderson intelligencer. [volume] (Anderson Court House, S.C.) 1860-1914, 1877-09-06
CUR GRANGE COLUMN.
Uhdef ike sHB8PVi6Ion OF The Executive
Committee OF Pomona Crane.
Fruit culture presents some advantages

WV "N'e'J SioPPiuS, biuCo ~ aPpiO'
PIRATES two seasons In the year for its
propagation and extension. In the
spflig !Beafiy all the ffBits coiamon to
our climate may be successfully grated.
In the latter part of the summer, say
July, the farmer enjoys season of leis-
ure, when he can very we'll afford to iD-
terest and amuse himself by inserting
buds Of superior fruits, particularly of
peaches and spples, into the fresh growth
Of his old trees, oE ;nto original stock,
from the seed. In the former case be
obtains good fruit in shorter time, and
as the improved fruit limb advances, he
muat top of tho old branches that pro-
ddced the little khotty, worny fruit In
the latter case, as soon as the inserted
bud begins TO grow, (the next spring. he
must top of oil the original stock down
to within two inches of the bud, so as to
allow the bud to form the whole tree
above that point. This plan, although
preferable. requires n longer time 70 me-
ture the fruit.
For particular instruction in budding,
J. refer the novice to an article published
in the INTELLIGENcER 26tb July last,
under the title Budding Fruit Trees"
Also to ON extract from an article over
the signature of "Cape," Published in
the Weekly Neaps of the 4th July last:
"For budding to be successful the buds
NJ ho nj,
and the bark of the stock peel easily.
Only wood buds will do, these being
sharp pointed, while blossom buds are
shorter and moro rounded q little o5-
servation will teach the difference. The
proper season extends here from Ist of
July till October. Select smooth por-
tion on the stem of the stock, free from
knots, near the ground, and make an up
right cut through the bark one and half
inches long and another across its top, so
that both together will resemble the let
ter T. Then taking shoot from the tree
we wish to bud from, enter the edge of q
very sharp thin 6laded knife half an inch
above the bud to be removed, slicing off
with it narrow strip of bark, with very
small thin shaving of wood directly be-
meath the bud; the whole portion removed
being about one inch and quarter long.
Tnen raise slightly the upper portion of
the upright edges in the cut, and rery
gently insert the edges of the bark of the
bud beneath these upright edges, down
to the bottom of the cut; in doing SO hold
| ing on to the Leaf stalk Of the bud, the
leaf being frst removed. Cut off square
with the cross cut above any of the bark
| Of the bud which may be too long. Now
wind iohitc wool yarn firmly and evenly
around the stock 90 as TO press closely the
moist side Of the bark and wood OF the
| sliced bud to the moist surface of the
wood of the stock in the cut, and cover
completely from the air the cut parts, only
leaving the bud itself untouched and ex-
posed TO the light. Just before the yarn
6egina to cut into the bark-in the peach
| about ten days or two weeks, the apple
little later-it must be loosened and re-
wound the same as before; being re-
moved for good when commencing to cut
taken, it will DE plump and fresh; ifnot,
will be dried, when tie budding can be
repeated. The bud can be forced to
shoot the same season if put in early, by
cutting off the stock one foot above as
soon as it has fairly taken, keeping all
other shoots rubbed off.
While it is very doubtful whether any
written communication can be made suffi-
ciently plain to enable new hand to put
in buds correctly, it is quite certain these
two articles present the main points to be
| observed in performing the process.
My practical experience, however, does
| net entirely approve all the suggestions
made by either of the writer's. For in-
stance, the "bag mating" or the "yarn
string" may answer very well as a band
ase, yet in their absence the bark of a
mulberry spEout, strip of cloth, or the
bark peeled from peach tree sprout,
answer just as well.
Another more important item is not
mentioned by either of these writers, and
that is, what ahall be done with the strip
of wood cut off with the bud9 The sur
face to which you wish to apply your
bud is round, but the surface of your bud
is iat, which would decrease the chances
of getting the bud to live. To remedy
this difficulty: when you cut you bud
from it's place, turn its fat side up, hold
ing it between the thumb and forefinger
Of the left hand, with the thumb nail of
th: right hand gently press the bark
downward from the wood, then insert
your knife blade between the wood and
bark, with the right thumb on the wood
and peel out the wood. Then you have
two aagfaces that will ft each other, and
the chances of securing living bud is
increased ten fold. The propriety of re-
moving the wood from the bud is very
seEiouoly questioned by some fruit grow
era, and these writer's may belong to that
! clnxs
Among other objections they say the
bud may grow, but will not bear fruit.
This Is certainly not true as to peaches,
for l have buds growing and bearing as
fine fruits as the country affords. And
the Same course is practiced by all the
fruit builders of my acquaintance, and
the success Of many of them is over
whelmingly established by the samples
lately exhibited at the Anderson Fair.
And this reminds us that there is at this
time very considerable awakening on
the subject of fruit cHowing among our
farmers. And surely, if auy one class in
preference to another has prescriptiye
fright TO enjoy the improved juicy flavor
nf tf.A r,efiua fssaik spaAa sk Sa cha caru,a.