The Kenosha telegraph. [volume] (Kenosha, Wis.) 1860-1888, 1877-06-21
SCENES IN STAMBOUL.
Notes of a Western Journalist at the Turk
iSh CAPITAL

ish Capital.
Mr.. John E. Cockerill, of the Cincin-
matt Enquirer, who has been travelling
in Europe for some months, writes from
Constantinople to his paper:
We left the Hellespont at nightfall,
and plunged into the sea of Marmora.
At sunrise the minarets of the mistress
of the Bosphorus were in view. The
beauty Of the approach to Constantine
pie in the early morning can certainly
never be depicted by pen. [ am sure
there is nothing like it to be seen in the
world. From the waters edge far back
to the hills rise the roofs and mosques
and minarets of Constantinople. The
dark patches of cypress trees here and
there lend an aspect to the white, sleep
ing city which is weird and somber,
though strongly invigorating. On the
right the buildings of Scutari (pro-
nounced Skoo-ter-ee) lift tier above tier
from the waters which sweep and roll
but never feel throb of tide. In front
the heights of Pera glsten. None but
the orthodox Mussulmans infest the an
cient city of Stamboul, and in Pera and
Galata the foreigner-the Ambassador,
the Greek, Jew, Armenian, and the work
of the Paynim-is confined. Gliding by
the grand mosque of St. Sophia, so bar
barrie in It's splendor, we anchored just
beyond Seraglio point. Of sudden
the spirit of the Osmanh seemed to
awake. In an instant we were surround
ed by hundreds Of boats, from the insig-
nifcant bum to the Oriental caique.
The bright colors of the towers stood out
against the dark waters, where fleets of
vessels lay as silent as though the hand
of death had fallen upon them. Here
and there long caique, containing
yelled woman, with oarsmen, topped
with the inevitable fez, darted in and
out, and away toward the Golden Horn.
At a proper moment our vessel was
boarded by the hordes of ferce-looking
boatmen, and for half-hour the pulling
and bowling and iabbering was fully up
to the Babel and Bedlam standard. First.
we slowly disembarked the half hundred
Turks and Albanian deck passengers,
the wild creatures who had lain for days
on the upper deck, under awnings, eat
ing black bread and onions by day, and
singing strange, plaintive songs at night.
The dirty devils on the boats seized upon
them and sped away, and betimes we
managed to effect landing. The Gus
toms inspection at the hands of the Turk
ISL officials was very droll affair." Our
luggage was soon upon the backs of
stalwart porters, and on foot we made
the ascent of the crooked, narrow streets
of Pera, reeking with filth, and crowd
ed with sleeping dogs-mangy, fox-ike
ours, all alike apparently exhausted and
anxious for repose.
My advent to Pera was on Friday, the
Mohammedan Sunday. The great thing
for outsiders on this day is to see the
Sultan going in procession to his mosque,
an event which takes place at II o'clock.
AS l was anxious to get a glimpse of this
important parsonage, engaged a drago-
man, and, In company with young En-
glsh acquaintance, set off on horseback.
We rode across the heights a mile or
two and down near the edge of the Bos-
phorus to the Sultan's palace I saw in
Abdul Hamid spare man who looked
every hour of 40 His face was sallow
and feeble, muzzled with black, cropped
whiskers, and there was a general air of
unrest and disquietude about him. He
wore plain European dress-coat, but
toned to the chin, and trousers long aud
strapped down His fez was bright red
and without decoration. He wore white
kid gloves, and at his breast hung
magnificent diamond decoration. There
were other orders and a fair share of
gold lace on the coat, but, in most re-
spects the garb of the Sultan fell far be-
low that of some of his Indifferent Off
GERS. He impressed me as a young per-
son who had come to head before his
time.
The heat here in the morning is abso-
lUtely intense. The SUMS rays are search
ing and piercing, and at noon fall almost
vertically. Toward evening there is
generally breeze from off the Black
sea, and life is more than tolerable. I
am wondering what sort of sunshine they
will be able to dish up in August. The
English sojourners all so about with pith
and cork helmets ON their heads, such as
they wearin India, and are all convinced
that they have dropped in next door to
TOphet.
We have an abundance of Sunday
here. The Mohammedans had one last
Friday; the Jews had one on Saturday,
and we good Christians enjoyed ours
yesterday. It is remarkable that none
of these Sundays interfere materially
with business. .s g "a
COlOradO'S Wonderful Wealth.