, 1877-11-11
FASHION NOTES.

| Neso Fork Erruing Post.
| "Thcrc's never SO much pleasure in wearing
| q bonnet the second year, especially when ths
| crowns are SO clancy, never two summer!
! alike" says Mrs. Tullyer to Mrs. Pullcr il
1.-The Mill on tho Floss" in that admirable
| scene where the versatile genius of the writcl
| depicts the family conclayc on the bonnet; ant
the remark holds good now, for the capote o.
| last year cannot be made to tide over another
winter; the soft crown, the Normandy aud tht
plated crown hare had their dayand have. giyer
| way to the stiff, plain one, which Virot and
other French milliners have adopted; and now
| plain satin bonnets of dull shade OF red Of thu
| most antiquated make are finished with very
| little trimming, aud are among the most stylish
for winter wear, but they are severely plain.
Another style adapted by celebrated French
iouse,-the .'Maison Felix, x,"-for receptions or
full dress is nothing but double wreath oi
flowers; these arc large double pans1es Of vel
vet, OF Marshal Neil roses, or the Gen. Jac-
quiminoL rose, or some other large flower ar
ranged in a double wreath on q wire band, and
this forms the lat, the back being composed OF
tulle wells Of color, or OF black or white which
hang almost to the waist. This style is known
rs the "St Felix" and is very elegant. 4
modification OF this has been shown here among
this season's bonnets; it has front OF tulle,
lace, flowers. and ribbons, aud the crown Is left
open to show the comb. White bounets arc
much worn for dress occasions, anlarc OF plush,
cloulel satin, terry, or uncut velvet aud satin
white feathers and white pearl ornaments arc
used with white flowers Tor trimmings.
Marie de Medieis and Marie Stuarr bonnets
have tne fronts shirred Oh wires, the outside Of
some dark shade: the inside OF contrasting
light one. These are dressr bonnets, and are
much affected by Gengette, one Of the we'll
known French milincrs. The bergerc " or
shepherdcss, q creation OF Flrot's is most ar
tistic but most trying affair, needing Il pretty,
fresh lace to show it off; its sides are held down
By the ribbon which passes over the crown aud
ties beneath the back hair; it Is generally Of
some light siadc OF plush. The Rabagas shape
is still favorite and in felt or fur beaver there
arc many Of the large, flaring shapes Of round
hats, which are half bonnets, and among which
the "nousquetatre," with its long, dropping
feathers, is about the most graceful. The fur
beavers are never much trimmed; they are
turned up at the side with some quaint orna-
naent, and hare handsome feather, but those
shown from Virot's are almost like riding-hats
CLOAKs-
Mar York World.
Among tho newest styles OF imported cloaks
is one made of heavy cafe au lait colored
cloth. It is very long, puttouiug from the neck
down to the end Of the cloak. 1u shape It is
the old-time coachmans cloak, position fasll-
ion, with cape falling over the shoulders. The
sleeves are large, and finished at the wrist as
oyercoat would be. The bottom was trimmed
was also beautiful gray cloth cloak, in shape
that Of lony sack, the front being one mass OF
a kind OF heavy corded trimming the same color
as the cloak, ending at the bottom OF the front
only with tassels, one serving US pendant to
each cord. The lack was also ornamcntcd by Il
large cord, crosseu and passing in and out
through the cloth, forming laeing, ending in d
tie with tasseis at the eud. The sleeves were
the regular oycrcoat sleeve, such as mcn wear,
trimmed around the wrist ,s with a. broad
the cloak Mt the back was also trimmed
with the satnc fur. The front was
double breasted, and held together from top to
bottom with large loops Of heavy cord: button
Ing across from side to side. Cloaks arc also
made short. One Of black arrnure silk, quite
short in the back the front being rather long
and trimmed with black thread lace about seven
inches wide, with a broad passcmenterie head
ing, was extremely pretty Tor dress cloak.
The lining was OF fur, Long silk garments
be more used this season than it has been for
many years. Very long black kid gloves are
fashionable in Paris. Damasse and rough
materials are still used, but are not as elegant
as ladies' cloth and cashmere. One Of the novel;
tics in dress this season is tue old-fashioned
broad coilar,.and cuffs Of Duchcssc lace. Dresses
arc made very mitch with rests. i plain black
silk. mixed with silk with small satin polka
dots, IS very elegant. The vest for dress Of this
kind should b. tnadc OF the spotted silk. Sleeves
are worn quite short, finished with lace or worn
with a deep, either iinen Or lace, cutE, to suit
the taste oil the wearer. 4 very pretty wrapper
or noruine-drcss may be made Of a very deli
cate shade Of light blue or gray cashn,crc, cut
iu one piece, or the Gabriclla shape: ln front,
from the neck down, have 4 broad reFers OF
either blank or brown velvet, aud the neck tln-
isied with velvet COLLAR fastened at the throat
by bow Of narrow velvet ribbon. Between the
reycrs nave breadth OF velvet continuing up
the entire front and waist, as there should be
quite i space between the regcrs. Tic dress |
tastcns at the side, under the reycrs, and belt,
passing from the side, under tue reycrs, lies at
the side with bow with quite long ends. a
coats1ccyc lined at the wrist with velvet and |
over to form cuff, is more appropriate for this
kind OF garment. 4 band of velvet around the
hem Of the wrapper completes the trimming.
4 NEW DEPARTURE IN DEE5sMAKISo.
was interested the other day in a little cir t
cular that was put into my hands; the orig- |
nator had an idea. II announced ] "new de- ]
parture" in dressmaEing by making prices !
''inclusivc'' Of minor trimmings, such as sleeve
and waist Innings. silk for sewing, thread whale
bone, and the like. Fashionable drcssmakcrs
in New York are accustomed to add to charge |
II sl5 to S25 for making 4 suit, uniform suin
Of $3.50 for the incidental articles used in max
me-, which do not include buttons or anything
parture" was really happy thought, aud I
imagine the dre5smaker is one not bred to tho !
but who has been forced into it by t
disastrous changes. Perhaps she has In happier |
lays been abroad, and had the idea suggested
% her by her ow. pleasant experience OF the
= inclusive" charges Of the Paris dressmakcrs,
VINO use the finest Innings aud materials Tor
making, but make no separate charge for !
hem, although their first and only one is so
much more moderate than ours.
My clever dressmakcr may, therefore, after
III, be an inexperienced one, but still should
,e willing to trust her, for, II no. perfectly
,crsed ia common methods, most OF which /
ire bad, she is surely possessed of an intel
igcuce which will enable her to strike out in
,cw directions, and, in time, achieve some-
hing worthy to be called artistic, even in dress
making.
COST or MAKING DRESS.
1t may surprise unsophsticated people to
earn that such prices as have mentioned, and
which are only the average for comparatively !
lain costumes, can be charged aud obtained !
or me.ely making dress, but this is because
heY are unacqualnted with the cost Of living in
he metropolis of rent, Of skilled labor, and
he comparatively small amount of routine
7ork performed by uninterestcd laborers In
,iyen time.
nreksmakers do not get rich even at s15 or