The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-06-15
From Harper's Bazar.l
Gentlemen's Fashions.
SUMMER SUITS.


are of broken and irregular plaids, bars and
checks Brown suits are much worn, yet there
is no decided preference for any one color, and
here is the same variety of design and liberty
# choice in styles that now prevails in ladies'
dresses. For example, both cut-away coats and
acques that do not fit the figure are worn with
these suits; and these coats may barely meet
at one point, where they are fastened by but
one button, and thence cut away, or else they
may be fastened still lower down by two but.
tons, or by three. The only obligatory thing is
that the entire suit-coat, vest and pantaloons
must be made from the same piece of goods
The collar of the vest or the absence of any
collar, and the mode of fastening, depend en-
tirely on the shape of the coat, with which the
vest must correspond. The trousers must be
cut large, full and straight, just as they were
last year.
Semi-dress suits for church, visiting and after.
noon wear have frock-coats of diagonal wors-
teds, either black or ark blue. The best au.
thorites say that the only important change
from last years styles is that these coats are
slightly shorter, and of medium length, instead
of the extreme length then worn. The vest is
of the material of the coat, or else a double
breasted vest of white duck is worn in very
warm weather. The full straight pantaloons
are of mixed gray stripes.
For midsummer at the country resorts navy
blue suits of Scotch heather cloth will be pre-
ferred to the flannel suits of last year. They
are MADE in the easy English styles described
above for business and travelling suits.
There is no change in the full-dress suit of
black broadcloth, except that the swallow-tail
coat is made trfle shorter. For full dress at
the watering-places many gentlemen eschew
this altogether, and wear instead black frock-
coat with vest and pantaloons of white duck
The buster for travelling and for driving is
the English Munster of gray Panama cloth or
of gray alpaca. 1t is very long, and is belted
like an Ulster coat, but is less clumsy-looking.
Linen travelling coats are made in the same
shape. Carriage robes used by gentlemen when
driving are of ecru linen with stripes or merely
borders of navy blue or brown, and fringed
edges. Others are squares of gray or brown
mohair, with an inch-wide worsted braid
either scarlet or blue, stitched fatty on TIT
edge as border.
SHIRTS, COLLARS AND CUFFS
Plain shirt bosoms of three thicknesses oil
linen are still preferred. They are made mar
rover at the lower end, in shield shape, while
down the front, outside of the eyelets for the
studs, is the only ornament. row of stitching
half an inch from the edge or two or three
cords in cluster, or it may be two or three
tiny tucks. For percale shirts, to be worn in
the morning, white grounds are preferred to
the dark grounds of last year, and instead Of
set stripes and checks there are now dashes,
bias bars, Japanese figures, squares, zigzae
lines, crescents, and the small spots and mere
specks of color that are always liked Turned.
down Byron collars are preferred for these neg
lige shirts; one collar is usually made on the
Shirt and second one is furnished; the same
is true of the cuffs.
The newest linen collars have square or round
points, remaining upright. English collars
have the turned-over points rolled very fal
back, leaving the throat quite bare. Turned.
down collars are not as deep as formerly, AND
have quite wide space In 'front.' Cuffs have
square or round corners, to match the collar
and are fastened by linked sleeve buttons.
Night-shirts are made either of plain muslin
or of figured percale They have a narrow f1ut
pocket, and the broad pleat on the bosom; this
ruffle is stitched with colored thread, and thu
initial OF the wearer, also in colors, is wrought
on the bosom pleat. Summer underwear is
woven as the finest hosiery. 1t is shown il
cream color and in darker fawn-colors.
NEcK-TIEs, JEwELRY, ETC.
Flat folded scarfs in English fashions are
made of satin-fnished foulards with ecru OF
white grounds with colored specks not as large
as pn-head. This scarf is called the Polo
Dane, and is shown in indigo blue with whit'
dashes. Very neat styles are preferred to tn,
SNOWY ones formerly used in cravats; this il
also true of handkerchief borders, jewelry, etc
hSu9 cray SIOuuuo Will DrUh6u Cu6ChS art
made up in slender sailor knots for scarfs
Basket-woven silks are preferred to plain gros
grain. What are called lace scarfs are nice ant
cool for summer wear. They are gauzes and
seaside grenadines woven in small figures alto
gether of cream-color, or else bars of blue OF
red with black lace-like figures between. Olive
is barred with pale blue: dark blue has ecru
bars. These are worn with scarf rings.
In jewelry there is fancy for modest little
scarf pins of silver representing trident with
oha vuh 20 har ~
fox's head, pickaxe, helmet or other simple
device; in solid silver these cost from So so to
SIS. Dressy stud buttons are of white enamel !;
those for general wear are Of faceted red gold
or the dead-fnished Etruscan gold. Sleeve
buttons are two bars of gold linked together 8,
that the cuff meets without tapping.
HANDKEKcHIEFs AND HOSIERY.
Handkerchief have narrow half-inch hens
with colored lines for a border. Those for dress
have wider hens and an initial or monogram
embroidered in color in long slender letters,
HaIf-hose of fine Isle thread, Balbriggan, and
silk are in dark colors, plain or else hair stripes
and are embroidered on the sides in darker
shade or IN contrasting. colors.
HATS AND GLOVES.
High-crowned dress hatsiare, of tsilver pear
color on a willow frame that renders them por
GUS and cool. The crown is slightly bell shape
&C. Business, hats are pearl gray, in Derb.
shape, with the round crown and brim boil
stiff, or else with soft crown and stiff brim
price $3.50. A novelty for cool summer ha
is the helmet, also pearl-color, with brim droop
ing in front and back and narrow on the sides
Its special feature is corrugated band insd
for ventilation, also holes in the crown. Pric
81. The ''ounce hat" so soft that it may bs
carried in the pocket, and only an ounce il
snxInA nof Al H.
merely cord for band; price So so to S..
Straw hats of English split straw are made il
sailor shape, with stiff brims and crowns. They
are all white or else of alternate striped braid
brown, black or blue with white. The brims
are double, and are of solid color underneath
Price $3.50 to $40.
Gloves of drab, pearl or gray lisle-thread are
with two buttons or an elastic band at the
wrist English gloves have the inner cores o
the fingers in contrasting colors.