Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1877-12-04

again at the throat. and terminates in q soft
ruff. The utter absence of drapery affords no
opportunity for flowers. mounted as trails or
lOuqGets: but instead. we have, for PrinceSse
dresses. which are a combination of silk and
damaSsee. or satin and silk, or satin and bro
cade edgings of flowers. which outline the de
sign. and foIm a sort of lining embroidery,
which has the most charming effect that can
be imagined
A low PTinceSse dress made "a part of a re-
cent bridal rousseau, was OF white satin, with
long narrow vest, and apron OF pale blue
faille. The lower part of the train was formed
of the faille, arranged In fine fe-pleatings.
the satin slightly teTTaced up at the sides, and
cut square at the back. the edge finished with
a rich silk and chenille fringe. The edging and
bordering of flowers consisted Of small white
roses or buds, with dark leaves. the edgingS out
lining the vest and apron, the border heading
the fringe trimming. A border of the flowers
also finished the low square neck, and covered
the band which formed the sleeves. The Prin-
ceSse designs also exclude. i'm great measure
thin materials. Young girls, il is true. wear
tulle and tarletan, pulled upon gOred skirts of
stiff muslin. and having small fan-shaped
trains covered with narrow plated hounces
7but the majority OF dresses. prepared for even
ing wear, are combinations of two rich ia brics
plain and figured, or of two fabrics differing
in color as well as i'm texture.
White crepe cloth and ivory satin are much
used in conjunction with maroon. and even
brown. Beautiful princesse pOlOnaiSes for re-
ceptiOn costumes are made of white crepe
cloth. trimmed with white satin and finished
with triple bows OF narrow satin ribbon. which
are made fiat, without ends, and placed the en-
tire length of the front. Lovely buttons of
carved pearl or ivory are used for these polo
naiseSi which are always worn over plain vel
vet or trimmed satin skirt. of dark blue ma
room. crimson or black.
a simple dress. which is very much i'm vogue
Tor home receptions. consists of a black satin
skirt. trimmed with q plated ffOunce, and a
pOlonai>e of black crepe cloth. a sort of Grim
pied cashmere. which Is cut square and
trimmed with satin bows. The square is filled
with a handkerchief of folded tulle. crossed
upon the bosom. and with IL is invariably worn
a velvet neck band. from which the lOcket or
pendant Is suspended. An appropriate addi-
ton tn this dress would be one of the new
knitting bags" made precisely like those car
ried by your grandmothers. and suspended
from the belt or girdle in the same manner.
The bag is not necessarily of the same mate
rial as the dress. II may be of silk or satin or
velvet. of the same color and quality, but ii
may also he made i'm cream-cOlOr or pale blue,
and worn with black They are always lined.
fled heading at the top. They may be used for
knitting. or tatting, or bonb OnS. or any other
purpose, but ladies who receive just now con
slider them Indispensable.
Perfectly plain, high bOdices. and long coat
sleeves, are much affected for velvet and satin.
because of the opportunity they afford for the
display of the new large collars and cuffs
which flourish under various names. such as
- Anne if Austria" "PerrOt," "CharleS l. -"
=" Lewis XIV" and Marie stuart
What are called "BalayeuSeS" are now al
most universally added to trailed dresses, i'm
order to save the washing and wearing of SO
MANY expensive skirts. Balayeuse consists of
plating of muslin. one or more added to a
strip OF Stiff foundation muslin which serves
as mounting. The plating is generally sin
gle in front, but arranged so as To serve for a
foundation to the train, and give the effect of a
train skirt worn beneath. Trains are two
or three rows deep. at the back very apt
To sweep aside from trained skirts and expose
them. rendering II necessary that they should
be Handsomely trimmed with lace or embrojd-
cry. and as they are quickly soiled, of course
the cost soon becomes a matter of considerable
moment. The Balayeuse Obvates the Difficult
ty, and makes il possible to wear compare
lively short skirts with handsome dresses.
NEW DEPARTURE IN MILLINERY.
The new departure in millinery, against
which milliners are opposing every effort that
ingenuity can devise, is imminent, and should
be hailed as an opportunity by clever dress
makers To increase their gains and enlarge
their area. The idea had its origin i'm the
costume bonnet aud is every way practical
BILE; and would be very acceptable TO the ma
jority of ladies.
Modern style in dress demands harmony of
tone. color and character. in the dress of which
the bonnet forms part, and il is very well
known that these are often destroyed by the
incongruity. the want of relation of this to the
rest of the costume. The bonnet has up to
very recent period. been independent of the
gown and its belongings, and often looked as
II II belonged to a different era. Lately ii has
been made part of the complete suit. and is
frequently composed of the same material as
the dress. The point, however, is this: Rich
women. with eleven maids, who have re-
ceived French training. can have bonnet
or hat to match every costume put together
out of scraps by their deft fingers at the
slightest additional cost while n poor woman,
after having paid high price for the making
OF dress, must purchase yard of additional
material, take IL to an expensive milliner, and
have the piece brought up TO what she con-
sidered proper standard, 10 achieve an in
feriOr result. 1t is, indeed, only the rich who
can afford TO be economical The poor woman
Is at disadvantage every way as regards
dress, not only in the purchase Of material and
its making into garments, but also i'm the i'm
proper use which she is obliged to make of one
that must serve many different purposes.
great reduction has taken place in the
are very low il is.alwayS because they are old
fashioned in cut or style, or because the mate
rial Is unstable. or for some other reason that
makes them undesirable to the average pur-
chaser. But little costume made the other
day, and finished complete, with Normandy
bonnet to match for SIS was so much beyond
the average i'm style and general appearance,
mat IL deserves special mention, and might be
copied at home by clever woman, who Could
cut from pattern and cover frame for bon
net tastefully, for about twO-thrdS the sum.
The underskirt was of brown alapaca, and it
was mounted with rather deep plated fiOunce
OF brown silk, with heading arranged i'm very
pretty and original form. The pOlOnaise was
OF seal brown fancy diagonal, and all wool ma
terlal. which is very wide and drapeS graceful
ly. The pOlOnaise was untrimmed, except with
pipings of the silk and a few bows of silk lined
with cream color. The bonnet was made from
piece Of the silk, and consisted simply of a
Normandy crown, with narrow brim and
Trimming OF brown velvet leaves and tea roses.
The materials for this suit cost less than SIS,
and the making OF course, was put at the low
esttermS. But had the cost for this been omitted.
the price would certainly be within the reach
OF any person who can afford to buy dress at
ALL and the example was so good that it is
worthy of being followed. JENNIE JUNE. .