The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-11-29
[Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.

Short round skiIts are gradually making their
way into popularity. They are cut quite narrow,
and are short enough to escape the ground be.
hind, thus relieving the wearer of the burden
OF lifting long walking skirt out of the mud
or dust. A single scantily pleated fiounce or else
Two narrow knife-Dleatngs form the plain bor-
der around the edge. These skirts are used
with the cloth costumes just Ioted, as they help
to give the effect of kilt skirt which is always
round and would be destroyed if allowed to
sweep This pattern is also adopted for the
black silk skirts that now serve under woolen
over dresses
AS Woolen over-dresses are so heavy, mo-
distes are making sham lower skirts of CAM
brio or of alpaca for heavy wooden suit. mere
ly Thinning them with fioupces of the wool, or
else facing them with wooden goods from the
knee doWa These sham skirts we're formerly
objected to, as they we're apt TO be displayed
when the overskrt was lifted or blowu about
Now the poonaise CT over dress is made to cling
50 closely that it is never lifted, aud the ex-
psDse aud weight of heavy woolen stuffs be-
meath IL are dispensed with This has become
SO general that suits Of black silk now seldom
have the lower SKIRT made of silk of the nice
qoailty used for the basque, over kilt, aud
hounces, as lower priced six viii answer the
same purpose. Wcrth has been known to use
cheap silk under rich btocaded dresses sold for
two or three bandred dollars each.
frlces OF dress goods are lower this season
than they have been for many years. Ladies
who do not care for the most snowy novelties,
such as the rough thIsadtd bouret'es and
nelgedSe stutfs, select the fine soft casbmeres
that are sold in excellent qualities at the pop-
ulsr price OF 81 yard, while very good colored
cashmeres are sold as low s75 cents, and black
may be bought for 80 GEMS. If care ia taken
10 the selection OF the color and its trim mings
plain Cashmere dresses can be made very pretty.
Inns tue darkest shades of green with blue
tluts are na ade with ba que and oyersh irt me re-
~ plped on the edge with silk, and oruxmented
with green silk bows that snow Cardinal or
else brouze faci1gs. The dark stone 'oloIed or
blQe-gray cashmeres are faced with silk of the
same shade. Navy blue IS not as popular [ n
such suits as it was lastsysar Pium-color is in
taVor again, especially with facings of pale
blue or of buff Olive, bronze, and moss gree
are also bIightened with cream.collr and
Diue. There are excellent twilled stntfs, wiry
and strong, yet every thread of wool, for
% or 10 cents yard; these are chosen in
very dark gray or seal brown shades or 10 the
gsyer reddish maroon for sevicesble suits tor
morning: they are twenty inches wide;
from eighteen to twenty yards is required.
When only an overdress is needed TO wear win
oiack or with any dark silk skirt, double
width stnits are chosen, and from four to five
yards is used. For these are yery pretty
American goods, all wool, with smooth grounds
on which are squares or dashes of raised threads
that give very stylish effects, and cost only 81
a yard. For 81 25 to $1.50 are matelssse and
basket-woven goods of excellent quality 10 all
the new shapes of color. As so little trim ming
IS required for DolonaIses, it is perhaps bert
economy to put most of the outlay into the ma
teriaL From IS to Sc Will buy enough durable
pure Wool Cloth for a poloLaise; the buttons
and SILK faclngs for the collar aad sleeves are
the only necessary TRAININGS; the edge of the
skirt IS more stylish when left plain than if
fringe or braid is added
Inc furnlsbl1g houses show ready-made low
priced suits tor busy women who have no lei
sure In which to make their own clothing.
Inc style OF these suits Is excellent with PLAIN
basques and long round over-sBirts that may be
adjusted to almost any figure, or else they have
very prettily shaped Dolonsises. There are
black cashmere suits Of pure wool, though light
In weight, for SIS. These have polooaiss
and skirt with two rows of knifa-pleatings, or
else basque with an overskirt. At other
houses these are trimmed with silk aud
sold for $20 II fringe is added, the
price is S25. Suits OF Knickerbocker stuff that
claim to be all wool are sold for S24; those
mixed with cotton begin as low as 81 so. Suits
OF three pieces asque, skirt and overskirt-
made of twiled goods with pretty Breton trim
mlngs, are SIS; with sacque added they are $50.
For the bedroom are flannel wrappers with
nice clear shades Of blue or gray with white
bars, made up III the Gabrielle shape for 81 so;
with u'lted satin pockets aud cuffs they are Sc
Very plainly made dresses of black silk begin
as low as $40; colored silk dresses may be had
for $40. There are very handsome and stylish
suits of black silk for $50, made with basque
and trimmed skirt Stimulating an overskirt
Long close-dttiug sacques with double
breasted fronts ara the popular shape for low
priced cloaks. These garments can be bought
In plain all-wool beaver cloths for 81, and in
nice-lookiog cloth which is DOT ali-wool and is
therefore not durable, for $3.50. The rough
suriacsd cl )ths are more expensive than the
plain beaver, and when made in such sacques
the prices begin at SIS. 80. There are mattelasse
cloth sacques at $13 trimmed with figured
braids and with some fringe on the pockets;
tncse at SIC are very dressy with silk cores IN
the back alternating with nice matelasse cloths.
Ii lady has leisure and is expert enough to
make such garments at home, her best outlay
is to put all the money in the cloth as no trim
nng need be used except the necessary but
tons. From two to three yards of all-wool
cloth OF excellent quality will cost from SO to
S12 Tho edges of such garments are turned
up and faced with silk braid.