The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1877-09-07
New York Fashions.
Fall Fashions.

This being the season of prediction, general
ideas of the fall fashions can be given.
Changes are taking place slowly and, so far,
any decided revolution seems improbable
The idea of combination in materials used in
the same costume, which has had its fuctua-
tions the last year, is to be an established rule
this autumn, few dresses being made entirely
of any one material, unless for the simplest
travelling purposes, when the very fact Of q
uniform fabricEasserts it as negligee toilette,
or one unsuted for any dress occasion. The
newest fabrics shown are the bourettes broca-
telles, damasses of closely raised figures known
as faconnes, plush grenadine and stalactites
The bourettes are of mingled threads of silk
and wool In various colors, two shades of
bronze being shot with cardinal or garnet,
dead-leaf and tilleul having q salmon-tinted
thread loosely woven, giving mossy texture to
the surface OF the goods. In the rich tones Of
bronze, smoke, olive green, and blue-black the
combination of tints is beautiful and the fab
ric has all the richness of brocaded velvet or
old fashioned satine. Old-gold color is among
the new tints. This is wrought in with a tiny
figure OF velvety black or rich deep blue, and
shot with the mossy thread of cream white
which appears In many combinations The
old cOlOrs are all re-appearing in new shades, q
dash of wine-color blending with the dull car
dinal, mazarine blue weaving softly in and
out of the dullest olive green, and here and
there loose fringy- looking thread lying on the
surface. The damasses have undergone radi-
cal Improvement, the texture being closer, the
figures in heavier, finer relief and the material
itself rendered more durable. These are to be
shown in combinations of two shades-old-
gold and black, two bronzes, seal brown with
intense blue cardinal with cream white, and
garnet with black; also in the solid color or in
two shades of one color, the darkest being in
Nl, ,Af INAu -
other pale tints are shown in exquisite damasses
on groundwork of white and salmon. The
matelasses continue popular, and are to be
shown this fall equally improved. Some rich
black matelasses have tiny acknowledged
figures raised in rich relief.
The all-wool materials will be used extern
sively in combination with silk, and will be
showr in various new designs-light stripes up
on dark ground, cross-bars, figures, and also
in solid form. The grays, green's. and browns
have undergone the merest suspicion of change
in hue, and are to be extensively used. Closely
woven flannel of navy blue and seal brown will
be used for every day or travelling purposes.
The galloons of varied design and quality
will still be worn, in some cases blending the
same hues as those in the dress fabric, and used
inSsuch cases as finish more than a set trim
ming. Marabout trimmings will also be extern
siyely worn, and combination fringes are one
OF the suggestions which time only can entirely
carry out. Worth has steadily employed jet
established that they will undoubtedly be seen
the coming season in endless variety and de-
sign, not only black but clair de htne Ia blue
black) and bronze headings will be used. A
costume recently made by Pingat in Paris in
cldded jet trimming to the cost value of 500,
which is of itself sufficient Indication for the
future. Not only in dress trimmings, but in
mantles, wraps, long cloaks, ETC., will the jets
be used; parasols, fans, even boots and shoes,
not being excluded.
While much ia still onlv nrediction. certa;r
facts are .now established, and we may safely
believe will govern the fall and winter seasons.
The combination of two or more materials of
course influences the design of every costume
Where the bourettes and such rich fabrics are
used in the outer part-the polonaises, etc.
silk is the only material proper to combine
with them, and silk also is employed with
every other material, from the cheaper wools to
the richest facoRne satins and velvets. The
princesse form will be adhered to in name at
least although 1t may now be understood to
signify any cut which includes the waist and
over-skirt in one, no matter how detached or
cut up IS the design. Long jackets and over
skirt drapery will be worn also; polonaises,
with special draperies, and in some cases
the round Over-skirts, while the under
skirts will still have the fan trains, pleated
back breadths, and scsnt front widths, with
only such notifications as individual taste
might suggest Sleeves are almost invariably to
have full trimming at the wrist; two ruffies
full box. pleated edge; or wide cut being used
to produce the effect, such sleeves being most
becoming to nearly every arm and hand. The
effort to produce a closely fitting, clngng
effect over the hipss still in favor all fuliness
in trimming beginning lower down, il at all.
and back dIapery being arranged with the
same object in view. Vest pieces will be some
what worn, certain additional touches being
given, such as lacing them across with silk
cord of the same color as the dress.-Hdrper'S
Bdzar.