The Cincinnati daily star. [volume] ([Cincinnati, Ohio]) 1875-1880, 1877-10-13
.wONIAN's KINGDOM.
The Fall Styles and Other Matters Of
Feminine Interest.
GENERAL REMARKS.

10 Uuy IuelI winter ludlcIldlS dS SdiiJ "S
October, because it is not uncommon in
the case of the richer goods for the nrst
importation to be exhausted and not re-
during the season. Thl3 was
50 last fall with the clOaklng material |
called coachman's cloth, small quah-
tity of which was brought out early, ana |
received with 50 much laVor that every |
ward was qulcKIy sold, ana no one was
able to obtain any more through the en-
ire season, the manufacturers having |
only made a limited quantity as mat
ter of experiment. This year, however, |
merchants have ordered large supplies |
OF the same goods; but it is question
if its very abundance does not make 1t
less desirable In the eyes of customers
than when it was unattainable.
1t is too early TO predict with safe ceI-
talnty what shapes wltl preValI lor WILL
Ter outside garments, DuC at the present
season various forms oil scarf manLlllaS,
OF various styles, seem to be the favor
ties, although SaCQ les are by no means
out of date. A m.,ntllla that Is shown
nj one OF the uptown ESTABLISHMENTS Is
made of black watered silk, OF tDe thick
",taud alone" quality thai used 10 be Ill
vogue quarter OF a ceALuly ago. Ihe
hack was cut III shawl point, Or pele-
and trInm@u with five rows of narr"N y
black lace, put on lul.; gathered ru1h
of finger VIDE lace was added beIoW
these. and at snort lnterN ais bows OF
watered ribbon were placed on The edge,
with the erlS Ealing on lhe lace. III
frnut were long ends reaching almost 10
tne glound, and trimmed Win the mar
row lace on the Slues, anu Ine W'ue
,rross the ends, which were mucn
nrosder than at the waist. Ornamental
huttnus closed the front ali the way
down.
| paletot matching costumes a1e sup
nlled by some dealers. Iney are Sehef-
ALI, III de oi one or more materials ul
| vlicu the suit is composed, ana trimmed
| cuufvrmublV. independently sacquGs lor
wearing with any dress are mace OF Va
rious lAbrlcs, Slcll,eune being tue hand
snmpst AND capab OF being tue mrst
elrpautly tfImmed. Blue-b ack yelVel
cloIp. trimmed VITA ct4tr de LHae pas e.
menterIe and fringe, nah,s d stylish
soroue for n yOuIg lady. Dark cray
tu..,4d rlotp. and an ali-wOOl clOth VIII cu
mas tho appearance oil being oroCa ,eU
with velvet, are among the new mAteIt
ais sold Tor wraps.
MATERIALS.
|
manufacture OF IA better CLASS Of wOolel
materials. lur mixed cos s'ulnes are often
er seen IMAM those composed Aol,y y
silk. Casumeres anL cumeIs' AdIr goods
ara bpauLlfuliy fine ana sHOOtA, and Jnt
rnlur, d uuub!e width lanuels are close
ly woven, thick, and not too heavy u
irgLe pretIlly. Many fine wool sultlnsi
are 1ulsueu with a rough surface, CIV
ing IL chenille or brocne effect.
irregular dashes OF Drlllldut color are
in other STYLES, raised III short Knott
threads upon an otherwise smOo h sur
ace, Sometimes stripes OF tails kIut
! alternate with mateIasse OF Jacquar,
stripes.
Silks are sold reasonably this fall, anl
the very dark cOlors are chosen lor tue
street, SUCH as plum, pruhe, Otter, oarl
plues and greens, and the Russian gray
For comuiuing Win these the iaDrIc
mentioned above are used, AS we'll i"
Y citnpr 1pd more costly materials, sue
0 Ias brOcaueS, uamaS,es ANA DiJcdut
l yelyets, and the neayy A gerlennes an
bouretle>, winch are mixtures Ol sll
j (bolh spun and raw and wool. Brocaue
2 yelyets are very neavy, and lack III
= grace III drauing that less elegant mat,
o rails present; but fashion orders lhel
use, and So uress-nahers do their best
= u,spuse them as t1ectlVely as p0sslUl
9 lunnn rich costumes. Although Freuc
nauers assert that the figured velvet
Niil nearIy supercede tue use of II
ulalp. 1t IS improbable that sucL will |
g tLe case III Luis country, Tor, III spl
IS ia richness, there is very utle re
~ henuty about ANA terlal which looks mo
suitable Ior turulturu coverings than il
uresseS, and American ladies' nave lol
e been noted IOr great pailIallty II
b PLAIN velvet.
n STYLES OF MAKING AND TRIMMING.
1T Notwithstanding every preuICtiUn
% the con fTary, the prlncesse dress mol,
. It's place IN popular reg Ard; but 1t III
II passeu through many changes and mo,
1t ItrntIous since it's frat lntl tlOduCtO
# Instead of presenting the seVerely p.a
. avucaIauce Condemned by ali lad.
who AaQ not uDGICrpLlOnaI l4urtS, Ii
l. drapery and TRIMMINGS ROW used 81
le dresses Oi this sLyle u mJst elaDVra
ID effect.
Princesse polonalses are made wi
w basque fronts, and long orapery tormII
court train, or me b ck Oreautls
ooped very low down, showing |
,n skirt beneath. A p,ncesse poIChal
tuatis much admll ca is made OF brOh
l. cashmere, JrImmed al around VITA
IL nuIlON llioSC Va H'tl ~ n wv 'i'A ''S' y
H. the bottom OF the tram tue pllsoe torn
AtouUle iuCne. Inc sleeves and l
~ front DrcadLns Of the dress are Ot ii da
Ie green velvet. The bottom Of the Dire
H. lrUut is cut out III squares, winch l
al lover plase of SILK; every utner squa
is turned up on the right side, sAOWll
w. reVerS OF SILK.
" Plastrons vi silk at the back and fro
tn Of Dasques, made OF WOODEN mateTiu
are be upon many new costumes.
w urluC sSe uressG, Tue pIastrOn Is sou
n, umps prUIungeu to form a II ont bread
e Iu one that | nave seen tn,s ian, /
a. ylastron, or vest front, was made
near! gray silk, was tXLvnued to oCGu
VI The pace OF the mont DreauLu, and GO
IN cred Win narrow sIue p.alL'ngs. L
n ulDer portion Of the costume as ma
-, OF totie de PerSje Ga woreted ana n
% broCaueu la,tIc) u u very dark Shaue
IL cray. All The seams were corded WI
ce yIue silk. and the dress was pTOluse
o1 trimmed with bows Of light gray 81
lined with blue.
OF FOR Uversklrts the scarf form is like
ld to be much III vogue. Inc scarls are
av different material rom the main port
OF me dress; two CROSS Lne front i'll t
Nv same direction, being loosely LED
tie caught upon one side toward tue bottC
H. OF me skirt, and carried around W 1
io nip upon the OLher, ana secured Denea
the urapery at The back. Ine low
70, edges oil the sCarfs are trimmed WI
I'd Lace or fringe. Later exhibitions