Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1877-03-28

plain on the frame, or else gathered
and shirred as capotes and Normandys,
are also among the choice selections.
| White bonnets, trimmed with very
| light colors, are the rule for straws;
the exceptions are black chips trimmed
with the new light shades of yellow,
green or red. Black lace bonnets of
plain or of figured net laid plainly on
the frame are among the most elegant
of the importations.
The briIns of straw bOnnets are now
of fanciful patterns that do not need
binding or piping outside for ornament.
The crown bears most Of the trimming.
If regular Normandy crown of silk
is not used, the straw crown is left in
tact, and bias gros grain is arranged on
one side or both to give the effect of the
pointed Normandy crown. Sometimes
only one side has this broadly folded
piece of silk, while on the opposite
(and usually the left side are flowers
massed as thick as possible, beginning
in the front and extending down to the
back of the bonnet. It is not unusual
to see eight, ten, and even twelve roses
without foliage clustered together in
this way. These roses are large and
fully blown, and may be all dark red
Agrippinas, Or else pale yellow Isabelle
| sprouts, Of the golden Marshal Neil, or
perhaps they are shaded from pale
rose pink to deepest coral red, or, more
often still, they are variegated to show
| the three fashionable tints-Mandarin
yellow, pink coral, and bright famine
de Vesuve. When roses are not used,
there is side garland in which some
one flower predomlnates, either butter
cups, Marguerites, deutzia, Or violets;
or else wreaths Of natural grasses,
clover, and leaves made OF rubber, ex-
tend down the side. When the half
garland is not used, there is bouquet
of flowers just on top, and the new
cache peign,e or comb of flowers is ar
ranged across the back at the end Of
the crown; this is sometimes merely
three roses In straight row across the
bonnet, while In other cases it is
thick vine with g fringe of buds droop-
ing on the chatelaine. In bouquets
flowers of strongly contrasting colors
are associated, IS blue forget-me-nots
with yellow buttercups and deep red
roses; mignonette, from it's perfect
almost every flower.
When ribbon is used for trimming it
is from two to three inches wide, and is
usually satin on one side and gros
grain on the other. It is arranged in
great clusters of loops with ends in
dented in points massed on top Of the
bonnet, is plain around the crown, and
is crossed behind to form strings, which
are either streamers at the back or
strings to tie in front, according to the
wearer's fancy.
Many of the finest bonnets have cur
tain bands of the braid behind, and the
crown is simply trimmed with similar
| band of braid over an inch in width,
piped on each edge with satin, and
| shaped into small bow on the curtain
band. It is in these fine pipings that
satin appears more often than in larger
masses in crowns and bows, as it is
rather heavy for summer bonnets. Vel
vet is scarcely used at all.
There is very little face trimming in
any Of the bonnets, yet the greatest
variety is seen there. Thus inside
some is soft wreath made of the
crushed petals of roses torn from their
stems. In another is an inch band of
foundation plainly covered with satin
of some becoming color in which gold
ornament is pinned. Others have full
puff of satin or of gross grain. Many
have a tulle ruche with only color given
by the silk lining the brim. Three rows
of loops of satin ribbon an inch wide is
another face trimming. One milllner
crowds ten roses of three shades inside
these close cottage brims. There are
Quaker-shaped bonnets absolutely with
out face trimming. Others are capotes
with two frills of straw lace almost as
fine as thread lace, and between these
is satin bandeau of tilleul, famine de
Vesuve, or other stylish shade. Twists
of silk, knots, and bows, with half of
one color and half of contrasting
shade, are also used, but, like tulle
ruches, these are not new.
There are no more monotone bon
nets showing several shades Of one
color. From two to four colors appear
on every bonnet, and marked con-
trasts are seen. Thus rose pink and
reseda are used to trim an elegant chip
bonnet. Another, trimmed with peach
colored silk, has also coral and Vesu-
vius peoples. A Tuscan braid, trim
med with pale moonlight blue silk, has
a half wreath of yellow cowslips droop-
ing from bouquet of forget-me-nots,
damask roses and ivy leaves. A Leg
horn bonnet has tilleul trimming with
masses of mignonette, Vesuvius pop
pies, and Marguerites. A brown chip
bonnet has "old gold" satin shirred on
the brim, and q garland of natural
green grasses and leaves made of rub
Der. Black figured Brussels net bon
nets are trimmed with Vesuvius red
satin, or with tilleul grasses and mign-
onette, and more often still with but
tercups, yellow roses, jonquils and
other flowers of the new mandarin
shade.
Among the most popular thin stutts
for trimmings are gauzes with bars or
stripes of plush or of chenille. These
are newer than the Mexicaine gauzes,
and are used for trimmings, and also
for wells. The veil is passed over the
face and front of the bonnet, crossed
| behind and tied under the chin and is