National Republican., 1877-10-13
October Fashions,

isfactlon.
October Fashions.
A New York writer says: "If there oould
only he a Congress OF artists who would do.
sign half u hundred graceful changes Of COS,
tune and let them be tho standard for q con-
tury to come. what = blessing - and amen, say
wo-only that then the occupation Of the FASH
ion correspondent. whose name is legion, would
be gone.
There seems to be greater range Of novelty
in
MATERIAL
this season than at any other since anto.belluu
days when goods were cheaper. and some old
fabrics have taken on so many new names and
variations a1 TO have quite lost their original
identity. The cloths hitherto known as Bour-
rcttcs have increased in number and namo,
and merchants are fast making household
words Of such war-like titles as Plevna i'm
pcrials, Scrvian cloth, Turkish wool. ncigcusa,
rrint"ille jongcur. and the shade Of Daniel
Webster only knows what next Most Of the
above goods are all wool, wool and silk,
with knots, snarlcd ends, loose fleece. or mere
flashes OF color on very dark grounds, and all
are expensive. Some Of the double fold wOol
stutIs. measuring 40 to u inches, come rs high
rs six dollars yard, though they may bs
found Of lighter weight and less elaborate
color as low as one dollar a ward. Tho more
expensive, because better, goods generally turn
out to bc better in the end, and the wider va
ricties are most scrvicenbe in cutting costumes
of the present style without waste. Many
Of the loose-woven Bourrettcs Of raw silk and
wool have much the appearance of the
summer goods Of that name, but the dark
grounds arc barred with richer, warmer
looking hucs The design is to brighten and
cnlivcn all the sombrc shades of grey, bronze,
smoke, bluc.blaok. bottle-green, &C. with tho
primary color in threads, dots and dashes of
rcd, blue and yellow. Persian aud Oriental
goods, which for months have been educating
our eyes to the change, no doubt originated
these efforts on the part Of civilized artists 70
blend brilliancy and reserve together. The
new cloths are universally Of that elastic toH-
ture where every THREAD is plainly seen, the
face of many presenting crossing threads and
darnings, like the reverse Of jacquard and
armure goods, thus seeming 10 he Dg-sido
out. There Is a rich brocaded caincrs hair
that looks like the undcr-side Of stamped
goods, and Others have so decided u "bottom-
| sdc-up" appearance that they could well bs
turned and pass muster ~ new garments an
| other season. Smooth cloths, cashmercs and
| scrgcs have acquired a rOughened face, dashed
with hair-like threads of golden yellow,
| or uneven silky lines thrown up on the
surface, or shaggy knots of wool caught at in
tervals, or bOlder figures intorlined with what
| looks like machine stitching. Bonrreifs peinrhs
| and bourrctts mousse are both desirable. and
make up well in combination costumes.
| Orleans cloth is heavy, and though it has
| dull look in the piece, II makes up Channingly.
| Drap de hat0um is another desirable fabric.
| like grey of brige wool chcviot, crossed BY
| pale blue threads one way aud coarse carmins
and gold the other. jacquard brocades In
wool are close limitations of choice gauzea,
especially when in two shades Of moss green
or olive. which glistcn with metallic lustro-
| Then there are the moss-cloths. with threads
thrown up on the surface like uncut velvet OF
| Brussels carpcting, the heavy French cord"
| with lcngthwse reps suitable for travelling
| suits and bridal troNr1uT, and thousand and
| one other unprOnOuucCahle varieties of the
bOrreticS uTmUIcS muii -roiOTs, as the gay autumn
| goods are called which make up best in
sacquc suits, Breton basques and princesss
polOnuises.
| As TO COLoRs,
black as usual holds its own against the iuno-
| walton of oriental effects, but there Is no mid
die course to pursue. Some Of the newest
shades have suggestive names, rs for instance,
dead turquoise, startled nymph, Endymion's
mOonbcamS, nenuphar or water lily green,
Pashas green, toadin-mOss, absinthe green,
cooked sorrel, Persian lilac, Dubarry pink,
. Pierrot white, margold yellow, Sultan yellow,
metador red, lizard gold, green. vert de
girls, cascade crystal, dragon and vivid i'm
pcrial yellow. In the name Of Minerva could
there be greater stretch Of imagination
, Then there are the combinations Of color, 80
diverse and perplsxing that this pen stops
short appalled,.
A greater profusion of
TRIMMINGS
are used than ever, both ON suits sacques,
dresses and cloaks, probably because it Is un-
usually expensive on the general principle
, that We desire most what IN difficult Of attain
Incnt Besides the heavy braids, rich fringes
and embroidered galloons, we have almost
priceless gimps and paSscmcntcrics, arranged in
shoulder. girdle and sword knots, plaques aud
f ornamental designs and devices quite TOO
numerous to mention. There are pnsscmcnters
headings a quarter OF a yard in depth, studded
with drop buttons like acr,sS aud with crimped
and knotted tasScls which impart u peculiarly
| iCRthcry appearance Then there are ele-
i giant embossed galrOuS with silk or satin
hack grounds, on which raised patterns are
described in velvet. and silk gallnon for even,
ing dresses, representing bright ,hurd rn~,sS
r with the edges cut put 10 emulate the flower,
/ intended. ThCreHre jet trimmings uf all -prts,
beads of every deception, combined in all
A manner of iringrs, gimp-. galonuS aud lact-I.
n r'oir dc irGc, amber, hrnnsc and hlua jet MaIlS
Feather trimmings are les used than lGrrrlo.
inre, except those mad" oi marI' ont ira iirrS
aS iringcd-silk ruching; have s,i,n'rcrd"d thrrn
e Fine black silk grrnadu" lim,ls are rmhrrid
=, cred in white, graz or SIiiL black: band, 0l
= ladies cloth, cut IN square sla>h's awl rui.
Z broidrrcd with silk, :" by the n,inr III ''irIt'
. trimmings W@len trimgr>, c"tm. from 4
!. dollar yard up, are >!iIi u.rd "",ru
= fabrics, aud the Breton aud Titirn braid> arc
: yet in favor.
: 4 Remedy r"r Divorce.
Marry in your own religion
$ Never both h" angry at one.
g Never taunt with u past mistake. nor sly at
:, told you so!'
f Let kiss be- the prelude to "a rcbukr ,ud
:, remember that "a soft answer turncth away
y wrath.
i Never allow n request 10 he repeated.
Il Let self-abnegation be the habit OF both.
n II forgot" is seldom an acceptable excuse.
y II you must criticise let it be done lovingly
s Make marriage II matter of moral judgmen
y rather than oil convenience.
h They who marry ior physical characteristic
or external considerations will fail OF happi
y ITSs
n Never make remark Intended to be sarcas
= tie at the expense Of the other.
o Never talk al one another, either alone or il
= company.
IS Give your warmest sympathies for each 9th
G ors' trials
If II one is angry let the other open his lip
r; only for a kiss.
II Neglect the whole world beside rather thar