New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1877-03-03
THE FASHIONS.
SPRING DRESSES AND ORNAMENTS.


DISPLAY OF THE EMPRESS EUGENE LAcEs,
FLoUNcEs. GARNIrURE, sHAwIs-LAcE NECK
LAcEs-THE PRINCEssE DRESs-CHAMOiS UNDER
wEAR-NEw FABRICS FOR EARLY SPRING
COLORED GRENADINES.
Douglas .JerrOld has written the History or
Feather" Let write the sensations OF tho
marvellous accs OF the cxEmDess Eugene, which have
found their way TO this city, The point de B'rees shawl
extraordinary nneness ismade OF fax spun in dark
underground rooms, fine almost to escape the SIGHT
More subtle web Arochne cannot spn than this shawl
OF yellOwish-yory lace ground, woven aud united
I in diamondshaped silky pieces, over which how
ers and foliage are displayed and ntertwned
Dahas, clusters OF forget-menots, roses, pnks, and
liljes are exqnistcIy coOrcd, each petal leaf, and
tendrl being after the patterns designed and painted
by thedesgner NJ DHuyghens, for the parchment lace
workers Eighty experts were employed for one year
on this marvellous product Of human industry. Tho
founce OF point FAlenc0n Is wide enough in front TO
form oyerskrt, and is five yards and half long.
This shows Imitation Of royal Venice point which Is
no longer manufactured, in its magnificent web and
patterns OF geometrical fashion, Of the elaborate
tscery Of the Renaissance period rare devices OF eiao-
crate antique figures OF nteraccd bars and Scrolls and
in e deisand OF cathedral windows and the tre-
foil OF altar and Moorish arabesques.
The patterns taken. most OF the lace-work de-
signs are from the minute tracees OF artists stone.
Again, the nearly invisible mesh heavy ferns droop
and long pensilc branches Ike crystal staaetes Ia
dark cavern, and there groups OF mcdaiions set In
frame work exquisite garlands OF foliage the raised
edges and borders being worcd around concealed horse
hair to give il greater stno and Offering grander
surfa eye a contrast to The airy grace OF the
manufacture. This hOunce cost $4,000 In gold,
and Is now offered 100000 To account for the ex-
IRENE cdilncss Of point AeDc0 1t should be said tAat
it worked with the finest OF needles parchment pat
terms pieces, and afterward united by inYlc seams
Twelve different hands required to complete single
of AlrncOu The design is engraved upon a
coppcr plate then printed of pieces Of green parch
ten inches long, each numbered in gwen ORDER.
The pattern is pricked upon tAe parchment by the
nalkcr; then the tracer traces the pattern OF the
parchment with thread upon o piece of coarse
linen stitched to the parchment; next comes the
worker, WHO makes the communicating OF the lace;
then the 0wer-workcr and others take 1t in hand Tho
finished lace il cut off from the pattern With sharp
razor The joining together OF the pieces Is performed
by the worker, who poishes up the flowers and de-
signs.
black Chantilly lace shawl has a ground fine as q
cohweb "a square border shows medieval figures Above
this is entwned garland Of e"r de lis and lilies Tie
center cluster roses tulips, ami passion flowers with
foliage are shaded like drawing in India INK Ihls
cost, 81 1OU. potd Aic0n shawl Is another marvel
of beauty $4,000. The border shows an Intricate
elaboration of leaves and tracerics The center group
consists OF wheat, dropping Oateu bells, and tulips
There is also bogdcr of medalons alternating
with roses There variety OF costly point Lace neck
aces and pendants shown in velvetlned jewel cakets
French nodstes now fashion garments according to
the style OF the dncen regime. These costumes, IN ono
piece with oyerskrt basque scanty ana narrow
and have scarcely a fold to hide the FORM
All Endorsements OF linen or muslin are Suppressc1ln
Paris and their place is supplied by chamOs The fash
ion il being followed by ladies Of philadelphia whose
dressnakcrs have prepared costly suits OF chanlols
The entire sait OF channels costs from $50 to 80 There
is remarkable reduction in price Of all linen and muslin
.ulnit In Il. az do
with a wide yoke and is buttoncd on to tho
edge OF the corset. During the warmth
OF Summer the chamOis SHIT will be sur
rendered for the same shape in linen. Cashmere IL
coming largely favor for evening dresses a. It's soft
ness and close cnging qualities cause IL TO adapt itct
admirably 10 the requisites of the ruling fash
White most in vogue. 1t is always used IN combine
ton with silk, either white or some pGCued iaHnoi
nn,c dpcrics and knots OF white Satin RIBBON very
chaste and elegant in effect is also the same toilet
Tie cashmere toilets are usually Dordorcd with heavy
sewing-silk fringe. Very beautiful cashmercs are dis
cream color and several SHADES OF yelowish white
These are all WOOL very soft, and ntenlc! FOR the Prn-
ccsse aud pOlonase toilets. Indian clslmercs
costly and still graceful. Black cashmere is ia:
yoie dress for Lent. and is worn Sute or combined
Ladies VINO wish a variety in silks must needs be con-
newly imported for owing hard times and the general
depression o. trade. added to the rise in raw SIR, there
will be very little variety silk tins Those
being exhibited show a SOFT cashmere finish. a. all
fabrics OF high user gradually being abandoned
the introduction OF INDIAN and all manner OF
Oriental stutfs Seal and chestnut brown and different
shades of among the fayOIite colos In ADDITION
several shades of green, including the new az
uI cTeamytlnted green, bronze hues dusky olive HOl-
bein moss and 1chen green; ana warm rich tlnts OF
purple prune, grape juice, and mulberry. return TO-
Vivid anllne coors IL predicted The latest
impOrtatOns OF figured silks show soft surface,
coveycd with arcbcSqes of smaller figure than those OF
last Other styles show scrolls fetwOrk medieval
designs medailiOns, and figured circles. The lear
pattern and other Oriated styles are not embossed as
heavily before, but present skeleton form.
ArBc designs rappcar after several years aoandon-
mcu and win be like the danasks, brOcades,
and figured silks in conjunction with gros grains
Soft Persian textures shown in rlch, strange IN
tricatc designs, which vivid and brilliant cOlos arc
toned down by dull quaint shades. In many Ot these
Oriental fabrics palm and banana leaves are distinctly
outlined through the pattern China and Japan, the ln
da Tusseb soft-twed silk, aud the lovely cacllemrc
silks will all be very fashionable as well as SIX and
wool Persian cloths. BOurette new material or
French origin. The twilled ground is covered with
rough raised figures OF contrasting cOors, sucn
Heui ground and gcccnsh damask 1gures blue Win
woOd-cOOr. gray with brown silks fOr evening wear
are eyquscly delicate in color. There soft creamy
tinted danIasse rOSehucd violet, light blue with pat
tern ITS surface OF wreath OF leaves hedg Win
deT De lis OF deeper color, and the three tones Of
white-iyOry, silver, and rose for brides toner.
grain or ale. COored grenadines introduced last
season and became so popular as relief from tno
warmth OF black that they are largely imported thls
sea SON and shown in all or tue silk coOfs and
many the brocldcd and dalnaSse designs
There are also lace stripes outlined with hair lines VI vel
vet and alternating lace and brUcade stripes.
Messrs: 4. T. Stewart Go. on laces Arnold Constable
& and wilson Greg costumes and fabrics, Will
please accept thanks for Information.