The Republican. [volume] (Oakland, Md.) 1877-current, 1877-09-29
Fashions Latest Freaks.

EaSnlOnS LaUeSI FREAKS.
Among the imported suits opened by q
leading dry-goods house within the last
week is one which exemplifes, in a very
charming manner, the tendency to intro
duce masculine ideas into feminine cos
tunes. The materials of this suit are
black velvet, Astrakhan camePs hair
with knotted surface, woven with rough
threads of both warp and wool in Ori'
entail colors and with Turkish effects,
and brown gros grain. 1t is princess
or tight gabrielle, with flounce of vel.
vet falling over one of camels hair at
the bottom. Under the camels hair
tlounce, which is very scant, is placed a
side pleating of bronze silk. The velvet
is used to form a simulated sacque cor
sage, which initiates a gentleman's coat,
with swallow tails in the back, falling
over the draperies of silk and camels
hair which form the back fullness,
though this is very slight-so scant, in
fact, as to plainly show that no hustle or
crinoline is intended to be worn. The
sacque is deliberately embroidered with a
kind of knotted thread embroidery lately
introduced, in the same rich Oriental
Colors which appear in the threads of
the camel's hair fabric; velvet buttons of
large size, embroidered in the same
cOlors, with asters, fasten up the front
of the basque and adorn the embroidered
pockets and swallow tails in the back.
There are two collars to the basque-one
very large and falling, the other half
erect, with square ends standing open in
front in such manner as TO show a
close side pleating around the neck of
bronze silk, clasping another pleating Of
lace, both opening on the neck enchalc
and rolling open to the point of the
bosom. The sleeves are of camePs HAIR,
with velvet cuffs, which cover the lower
part of the sleeve to the elbow. These
cuffs are embroidered, and trimmed with
embroidered buttons to match those on
the sacque. On the inside seam of each
sleeve, from the wrist to the elbow, are
placed small butterfly bows of satin
ribbon, black faced with yellow on one
arm and black faced with red on the
other, these being the prevailing colors
in the threads of the camePs hair fabric.
A bow, with loops and ends of both
kinds of the same ribbons, is placed low
down in the back draperies, which simu-
late polonaise, and another where the
collars fall open on the bosom. Although
this dress Stimulates a skirt, tunic and
basque it is all in one, and is so tight to
a line below the hips that it is rather a
difficult matter to get into 1t. Its man
ish style is charmingly modified by the
coquettish profusion of trimming and
ornament in the way of embroidery, but
tons and bows of ribbon.
Several new styles of wraps have made
their appearance in the cloak depart
ments. One from Worths, a long sacque
with very straight seams, has simu-
lated double breasted front, forming a
plastron about six inches wide, which
buttons on with handsome ornamental
buttons on each edge. A loop IN the
plastron, just below the waist line, forms
small muff, which is warmly wadded
and lined, but not trimmed, with fur
The cuffs being of fur give the appear
ance of fur trimming when the hands
are in the mutf. A fur collar to match
is the only trimming of this kind on the
cloak. The large, square pocket on one
side is studded with passementcrie orna-
ments, frightened with clair de la lune
jet, which crops out also on the buttons
and on the few fringes and other orna-
ments.
Another cloak of Worth's is an Ulster
of soldier cloth, with a military shoulder
cape, and half high, half rolling collar,
llffc of or Of hn
cloth turned up on the sleeve and a
slightly bouffant drapery, made on one
side of the back by greater length of
one side of the back breadth than the
other, the additional length being caught
up in three deep pleats, Large buttons
OF bone and bindings of heavy titan braid
are the only trimmings. Some very hand
some circulars of thick Himalayan cloths,
Oriental daniassees and basket-woven
Astrakhan cameps hair goods are also
shown. These circulars have a seam
in the back, and are shaped to the figure
SO as to look almost like long sacque
in the back. Some have hoods, others
collars. Some are trimmed with fur,
others with woven linen backed feather
bands, others with fringe, and others,
still, with no trimmings at all, only a
binding of titan braid, matching the
color of the cloaking material. Black
basket-woven cloaking fabrics are also
made up in circulars, and richly trimmed
with clair de la lune jet, galoons,
fringes and tassels.
The long, severely notwithstanding
garments, which are called habit cor
sages, and which are destined to become
very popular this winter, are in reality
polonaises, the lower parts being cut of
irregular shapes and lengths, instead of
being drsped as formerly They will be
made of velvet, to wear over plain silk
or damassee skirts, or rice Uersd, of
damassee, plain silk, or basketwoven
stuffs, to wear over velvet and velveteen
skirts.
New linen collars and cuffs are very
large. The collars are three inches
deep, perfectly round, with square Pu.
ritan corners, embroidered in coors, or in
white or black chain stitching; the cuffs
to match being worn over the sleeve. in.