New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1876-11-18
THE FASHIONS.
HINTS FOR EARLY WINTER.

The aim of designers and engravers on metals
and precious stones Is to revive the artistic metal and
gem OF the sixteenth century and the period OF the
Renaissance Marvelousy beautiful settings for tewelry
are done in repousse The desire for change has intro
duced jewelry fashioned of rich stones like Labrador
fedspar, azure-bue in hue II takes exquisite pol
ish its ehdoyat reflection making IT extremely popu-
lar Artistic examples may be seen In various designs
for ornament, az well table tops and articles OF
rerta II is bue bronze-red, yellow, bluegreen, or
purple Another stone is che Oriental chrysoite, OF
greenish-ye with brown tinges. when translucent
with opalehangng hues it is called eatseye The vaiae
OF this stone depends upon the play refacton of light
fine specimen, heirloom OF an old family has re-
Gently been ring in large diamonds. These and
other stones ges gold decorated with eo0red
enames i'll relief superb intGg Of Marguerite Parma
is cut in what h called false topaz species or eaiFn-
germ assuming ,he deep red orange hue OF the aenth
Among the minerals fashionable for jewctry are
porphyry Jasper ametlystine quartz labradorte, and
agates and polished Some beautiful necklaces are
made OF bery- Some charming sets of jewelry which
will De fashionable made Of manyeolored topaz pale
bne Brazilian sapphire aqua marine, PINK Btazilian
ruby, and Che pale. acknowledgment Brazilian ehrysoe
Lapis azn is set for pendants carvings, and necklaces
both in the costly Persian stone and the French lma-
ton All of these sbnes set in colored gold. Oriental
fashion, with pearls in various pretty cOnce such as
trueovers knots, Greek arabesques interviewed rings,
crosses stars, and A dark antique onyx Is
wonderfully carved in the shape OF prison window the
being formed IF the upper layer in dark brown en-
tircly detached FROM the window, while behind the bars
Cupid Ia a prisoner chained to block. On others are
carved Mary Tudor Marie de Medeis, Ulysses, Achilles,
Hagar and IshInae Guidos Aurora WHAT can be more
exquisite than these perfect carvings upon the dark
brown Of onyx the pale pink of ehaeedony the delicate
green OF the chrysopras the pink OF the sar the violet
glnting OF the amethystf There are many superb
specimens OF the OPAL its living fires contrased with
the costly settings OF large diamonds III pendant and
brooch.
The last fashionable openings OF the present season
prove that Notwithstanding the introduction OF vivid
colors women of taste comprehend the stricter pro-
priey, II it may be termed, OF preferring black
costumes for street Black silk Is combined with
black velvet, cashmere with silk, plain velvet, and
embossed velvet and OF the most elegant costumes
Of the at late opening united excessive richness
and quiet elegance Intended for carriage and vistng
wear the skirt demitrained of rich BLACK gros grain, ad
wide ounce OF black velvet, headed and completed bya
velvet kuifepaiting The velvet overskirt one side,
had rerers OF black satin. and the other side an
elaborate trimming OF united satin and velvet formed
the back drapery The basque, OF cuirass shape,
was made OF black silk, with velvet sleeves, trimmed
with wide silk fringe and NOISY heading. Another
equally elegant dress OF black gros grain was conf
bBed with rich Iuateasse, and yet another was com
posed OF black velvet and black sat with trimmings of
velvet looping cocks and ostrich feathers Less costly
dresses OF black silk, demEtrain aud trimmed with
knfe-paitings and triple and double bOx-plaited
LOUNGES The polonaise Is extremely simple in design.
Some Of the dresses into which color ia more OF less III
troduced show extremes in contrasts An imported
dress Of delicate blue os grain has oyerskrt of blue
,anasse while ali OF the acngs, pipngs and knots OF
ribbon are deep cardinal red. myrtle green costume
OF silk and damasse has similar bright additions, and
more questionable In taste Is superb hunters green
velvet with poouase Of cameps hair, dotted with
celeste blue. The very elaborate ganiture consists OF
facpgs and trimmings OF green silk and blue silk and
fringe OF the two coors united. There are some e1-
tremey rich costumes Of damak camels hair, thick and
soft and i the dark ground designs Of an oriental
nature I'm lighter shades OF ferns, ailantu and palms
They cost double width 50 yard Bag'iad wool fabrics
are made gay with silk wool tufted knots and dots
woven I'm gay Turkish colors on a DARK ground lhey
are made up with silk ppngs to match the most prom-
nent OF the bright spots.
Most exquisite are the fabrics for evening dresses TO
be worn as oyerresses called gauze grenadines, OF diff
ferrnt STYLES Some are open lacewOrk transparent as
a cobyycb others are quite covered with daInask ana
rich brocade figures. The colors are exceedingly dell
cate-pale water-geen, apricot pink cream color aud
several tnts OF rosy lilac charming evening toilet IL
made ~ watergreen gros grain and damasSe with Trim
ming OF rich chenille fringe The dGcollee basque is cut
square I'm front aud IL with ut sleeves; narrow nounc
inc OF pout lace falls over the armhOe and trims the
neck Flowers have never been more extensive
IL used FOR the decoration OF dresses Ihete
are large clusters Of the red and white
Dubarry rose the magnificent Ternier mlde, the pale
straw color the Refine Marguerite and creamy tea rose;
long garands Of graceful passion flower beiotrope' ana
ferns, par,ues OF gorgeous cacu mingled with foliage
miami and SALIVA; garlands of vivid Autumn leaves,
cranes and hops clusters OF white jasmine sprea and
lilac scarlet tropical buds halfldden In moss EnIre
oyerdresses made Of flowers placed enethSse IN
grTauds transparent tOunddllo, ana DonqeCa ie
tt1fse
OF drapery or wherever eaplelous taste may ue'S,
,f ewe,ry sOcae made up of the brilliant top of
a huIning Uirds head finished with the tny 1901 anu
Laws. others OF oralescent little Brazilian shells the
light green tropical bug, pretty porcelain flowers made
in Prague purple Ni0les double puks, roses NY cups,
and INV of The valley; ana there amber flies and odd
bugs aud costly earrings OF butterflies 1ofeu vi tue
rarest gems set In gray platina -. ,.
The antie-t and conspicuous Is one of velvet and
fine French felt. II needs very little trimming except
the baHdeat loop OF velvet and SILK III 'front.' some
hnvr borlcrng of fur the edge OG the brln Black
velvet bouues, OF whatever shape are considered more
shounble Int there are many elegant eoored haas i'm
oIed OF such colors combined green and amber null
berry and blue, purple ana dark poppy req, e'et pu anu
hunters green Seal sacques are quite as popular as
and are made more easy aud graceful by the seam
in the back, and so are extensively patroh1ed y ss
who like To show what Mrs. MantlIln calls thelr out
ue" They also longer. Last years sacques can De
heightened by bordering Of fur OF black beaver sVey
black uaren, chincha. unplucked otter isnef Lil ana
sea otter of mu and boa OF mink ana Alaska saoie
are the bandsomest OF inexpensive fus ranging IN price
from Sl6 to 500 The beautiful blue iOA Is as ashoh
able as ever but cannot stand wear or more tnah one
season. The costly Russian sabes are becoming eaeh
lnn',.r tJ,n those of I6st year. Chincha takes
a nigh place this IN fashionable regard.
The beautiful africa chinchilla Is exqulstey sou
and yeIyefy of a dark gray II is made up into
sets into sacques for trimming and Tor Inning sacqe5
and clOaks, and in this shape IL very costly Large uo
mans and sacques with loose hanging sleeves are
feature of thIs season, scarcely fitted for an
Amer can Winter excepting for carriage wraps Inere
il an lnnnite variety shown in dOmans, short aud long
sarnrs cUks with form seams, and large circulars, all
incl with various kinds OF fur. These come IN PLAIN
,rns grain figured sicirnne, and silk dimask. they
IRE lined with gray siberian squirrel the SquirrellOek,
and many are trimmed with kind OF the legion
of fancy lrs which there exists great demand
IIudson's Bay tail trimmings Tl5 yard; fisher tan
bands are from Sl6 S2j the finest clnchila sells Tor
81 r2l. and cleaper handS