The Portland daily press., 1876-09-25

down upon it. Feather bands will also be
much used Oh black silk suits both as the
heading for the bunch of rutfies and for trim
ming the over dresses
Long wadded silk cloaks will be worn with
black costumes. Fur bands will be most
stylish trimmings for black velvet and silk
dresses as we'll as for the long cloaks that are
to be worn over them. Black cashmere suits
and the square-fgured woolens will be
trimmed with galloon braids, fringe, and silk
pleatings.
DRESS WAISTS, SLEEVES, ETC
The seams of dress waists follow the natural
outlines of the figure, and have less of the mas
cullne cut lately given. Thus, though shoulder
seams are still short rather than long, they are
DOT to be chopped off as of late with sleeves set
In as high as in gentleman's coat, nor are
they to be placed as far forward as they have
been. The object now is to make the figure
look slender and long wasted, hence backs of
dresses must be narrow; and to produce this the
shoulder seam is cut further back than has been
the custom for three or four years. as will be
seen by referring to any of the fashion plates in
late numbers of the .Blzar. The long seams in
the back of dresses are most varied. Some
waists have two side bodies others have but
one; while others are French shape, while Still
Others are in the French shape, without any
side form. There are many dresses with the
long seams that begin on the shoulders, making
long side bodies, while others again have the
short seams that begin in the armhole The
darts In front are close together and very short,
giving the appearance of low bust. The
neck of the dress is as high as it is possible to
wear II, and in many cases has two collars one
OF which stands, while the other is turned
down IN Byron shape. There are double
breasted, diagonal. square, and close fronts.
Trimmings usually extend from top to bottom
of the waist, being wide at the top slipping at
the taper, and widening below the waist
line. PiastrOns of silk are cut in this way
Sometimes there is single plastron down the
middle, while others have two plastrons set on
a little beyond the batton-holes. This is a
tasteful and simple fashion. Usually there are
two rows OF buttons on each pastron, and one
for buttUning down the middle, making five
rows OF buttons instead of the regulation three
rows, as at present Sleeves are close coat
shape with scarcely room enough to get the
hanG through at the opening. Pretty little
regers and narrow pleated frills form the cuffs
which, to be stylish, must be simple and not
showily obtrusive. The tendency in the richest
dresses is to have the sleeves match the waist,
yet there are many combination costumes with
silk or velvet sleeves in wooden over dresses
Buttons appear on the sleeves as well as on the
body. There is great fancy for embroidered
buttons, with q star wrought on each button.
Pockets are both useful and ornamental, and
of most varied shapes. Long-looped bows ex-
tend down the fronts of polonaise, aud play
pretty part, and also an important one in
Frightening up the new costumes.
TOURNUREs.
All bouffant tournures are abandoned. The
long slender hustle that holds the lower part of
the skirt away from the feet will be retained,
though many ladies prefer pleatings or fans of
crinoline placed Inside the skirt of each cos
tune. The slope from the waist to the end of
the train is gradual, and must be natural look
ing, as the skirt falls away from the wearer
when walking; otherwise the graceful effect of
the new over dresses and shapely cloaks will ba
DESTROYED.