Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-10-02

Autumn styles In B00neta and Coz
tumes-A Maid Up0n she Bernard
Grand T0alettes- Fabrics IN
Silh and W0Sl.
[Frosn Our Oun Corresponde,st.l
NEW YORK, September q, 1916.
Women are very poor this season, even
the rich women; they do nothing but inquire
how they can maze over their old clothes In
q "sty lish," yet "inexpensve> manner
They look at the dark tinted fabrics I'm the
she p windows with longing, and turn with
loathing to "make over" an old dress with a
material, bought cheap, because IL IL out OF
date and the color not nov In demand. The
blackness OF darkness permeates all manu-
featured fabrics, and gloves, ribbons, neck-
Ties, stockings, everythin has 10 follow suit.
IN q uniform toilette OF fashionable cut and
color, q woman looks very much as II q darK
skin bad been drawn over her, iliumina ted
with q brilliant bit OF tattOoing here and
there, and crowned win a bonnet. The dark
shades for street wear are certainly and un-
mist akably rne; even the prints appear win
black grounds and fine hair stripes of clus-
tered maize, or crimson and gold, which af-
ford effects as striking and artistic as If they
were to be worn amidst the brio u brac of y
modern drawing room rather than devoted
to the service of the Kitchen. All this pro
gress," however, makes work and confusion
In the wardrobe OF the modern woma Al. who
has twice as many clothes of all kinds as she
needs, but none that are just what she wants
~.
garments have been cut after ancl lent, that
10 70 say, three mon tbs old patterns; they
have bows down the front, when buttons are
all the rage, or the buttons are large, when
they ought TO be small, or the everdress is
checked, when dam rs kei patterns ave sen
substituted, or IL has been made as over
vernacular, wears any thing but "polonaise Z"
Trials such rs these break down the health
Of the strongest, and most serene tempered
sppreci.ps tSe%. Any dearS 'r re% marx 20
good natured husband, "dCn't Kill yourself
altering over, just wear your old clothes to
replies the wife, severely, az 60 to market
because 1t 10 o duty owe TO you, to look AZ
ter your interests, and manage the house
bold AFFAIRS a. economically as possible, but
TO be seen there by Mrs. Jones, and Brown,
and RObinsO In Q vulgar, unfashionable
dress. To be sure, do not meet them oftsn,
for few ladies' pay such strict attention TO
family matters as i do; but stih, II cannot
so TO market In q decent suit, and bonnet,
why will not go at all, and you may order
the trades people as other men are, and see
how you like IT," That settles the matter,
and the work OF ripping, and pressing, aud
men detest more than house cleaning, be.
gins, and with it martyrdom for the whole
family until 1t Is ended.
NEW EMPLoYM1NT FOR WOMEN.
The coming season does not promise TO be
a very gay one, though business has revived
and the the alters are crowded at time when
Middle arc class people sspsciaiy nf ns IN the
shrinksge OF income that they have all they
can DO TO preserve that respectability of ap
pearance which stands between them and
the loss of social caste and position. Under
these circumstances retrenchment has been
necessity, yet where to retrench was the
Question: ~ VIII tell you" said one bright
viii dismiss Katy, she Is hardly any use,
and take Tot out for her walks myself, the
exercise viii do me good, and shall be sure
then that she is not exposed To any danger.
The other afternoon, }" she continued, Gas i
was returning from q late call upon Mrs. B.,
who is Ill. passed four nurse girls VINO had
one of the cross-streets for gossip. 1t had
grown chilly, And the wind vas blowing
very disagreeably; two Of the children were
plteously that the girl in charge OF him was
obliged TO leave the group and take him
home, but before she did so she gave him q
and finally started in q very bad humor. /
could not help thinking then OF the mothers
OF those children, seated In their cosy rooms,
warmly dressed; Waiting In the IRE light
thinking OF the DUTY they Owed them, aud l
then and there made up my mind that here
1fter l WA going to take care Of Tot myself
what the husband said to this speech from q
pretty wife In q dark blue cashmere dress
with white lace. and sprig Of scarlet gera-
II
in her hair. But I shall not tell. 1 know
one thing he did. He stopped at Appletons
the next day and bought two serial tickets
had requested him 70 do some time before,
bus which he had neglected, and every pleas
ant day the lady may be seen walking down
girl by the hand, and % appropriately dressed
that her costume deserves mentioning. 1t
consists OF q black silk walking skirt, Q dark
and CUTS OF velvet, and . grsy felt hat to
match, trimmed with black velvet and o
dark shaded wing. A crimson tie lends the
Ing her ON the wide, Clean s1 SnSoc.1pisd tser
oughfaye, / am seized with longing to make
all the sweet, gentle, refined women who oc-
cupy the beautiful houses, who are devoured
with e,naa, who need air and exercise, who
have little children who equally need air
W., sunlight h their ,. own O. , nurse maids
mothers and for the children.
BARN YARD BoNNErs.
II fowls could speak We should certainly
have remonstrance from them in regard TO
been in orsr TO praducs me aSes
things in winter hats and bounets. What o
disgueted woman Lady Rurdette must be to
no other efi ne than TO double tae dsptguction
OF the innocents. We do not now have featbe 8
and wings for trimmings alone, but wonderful
OF the breast OF birds, and ornamented with
heads and wings. The imported feather
hats can be crushed like gentleman's opera
hat, and look none the worse for IL. The
blue green breasts of the peafo vl are In great
demand, and the small feathers Of the pea
COCK, guinea hen, and even the ordinary
barn yard fowls, for mounting as bands.
toque, crowns and theslike. The heads and
breasts of the seagulls are of q mongrel sort,
and would potbe recognized by any student
OF natural history. II is sufficient II they
lave bills and snowy plumage, the ma
jority OF the buyers are sufficiently versed in
mythology TO be critical.
The sudden enterprise which has been put
into Clancy" feathers is doubtless due to the
scarcity OF real ostrich plumes. A long,
full, handsome ostrich feather now has Q
positive value like lace and diamonds, and is
considered only suitable for dowager, elderly
ladies who must console themselves for the
loss Of their youth by being permitted TO
wear nbrics and ornaments older even than
themselves.
The newest hats have sugar. loaf crowns
and narrow blims, which are bent close 20
the head. The brtm 10 bound with velvet,
and they are 90 covered with feathers and
enormous pufis OF SUE, traversed By metal
6aagerS and other sAneuinary ornaments,
that IL IL difficult 70 tall Of what the hat n
seif was originally composed. IL II . quaint
L. - And