Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1876-11-09
PolOniases, Basques, Etc.

S@ANN1SNOs te1i>t IkCO, ctllo WIdG GuS
reader asks is to be advised of new de-
tails in these garments. Nothwith-
standing the presence Of figured and
of colored goods, black polonaises of
rough-finished camels-hair, OF Of
smooth black cashmere, are among the
fayorite garments at the most exclu-
sive modistes', and these are given an
air of freshness by the new way in
which the cardinal faille is introduced,
OF the lace garniture is put on. AS we
have already, indicated, the square
plastron promises to supersede the
vest and all other trimmings for the
fronts of both basques and polonaises.
Now this plastron of cardinal silk is
put i'll black cashmere polonaises, and
the cashmere is simply piped around it
and TUNED down en- re0ers. The car
dinal also appears in the sash behind
and as facing of the flaring cuff. Black
bows lined with cardinal are down the
front, and conceal the sover-much red
Of the plastron.a Brocade or velvet
plastrons, or those of contrasting
color, appear on basques and on
princesse dresses. &## ta2s H9e...aH
Another pretty fancy about the
neck of costumes, especially Of polo
naises and mantles, is that of making
a.pleated scarf and sailor loops, of the
black cashmere and lining it with car
dinal faille. In the first place the
polonaise is provided with the high
Melicis collar, which is a bias band an
inch and euarter wide, with sloped
seam behind, and also sloped diagonal
ly in front, instead of being rounded
as formerly Or turned over in English
points. This collar is of black cash
mere lined with the cardinal silk, and
is not piped on the edges. Outside
and around this is laid a pleated bias
scarf six inches wide, also of cash
mere with silk lining. At the throat
a strap Of the same crosses it like a
sailors knot, and below are two soft,
long loops reaching toward the side.
Five pleats hold the scarf around the
neck, and outside of this scarf is still
another collar, which is confined to
the back of the garment and is two
inches high. This neck gear requires
to be made with exquisite care, or else
it will be too bulky for grace, making
the neck look thick; when finished
with French taste and skill, it is one
of the prettiest of the small details of
the toilet, giving the high trimming
about the throat which is now de
7'igoteaT. Ibis.
An old caprice about polonaises is
that Of SO tufting" the skirt in front
and on the, sides. This is done by
catching up the skirt with round knots
at wide, intervals, in diamond shape.
Polonaises with basque fronts are
shown, but are not liked so well as
with waist and skirt in one. Basque
backs are not objected to, but the Mar
guerite back with three middle seams
is most used. Ladies must reconcile
themselves to having but one dart in
the front of polonaiseS, as two darts
take away from the plain effect now
required : and the longer seam, placed
further back, serves the purpose of a
second dart, does not add any fullness
across the stomach, and also serves in
stead Of a long side seam, which is now
only found in old-fashioned patterns.
The third side form which is shown in
the backs of some new garments is OBJ
jectionable, and those with three seams |
in the middle are liked even better than
those with five. III, T.. BIOS. ~.
The new square backs of basques |
are in keeping with the square plas-
irons. They are made very short on |
the hips, and rounded longer in front. |
The three middle seams begin in the |
back of the neck, and extend below |
the waist 1ine-With whalebones all |
the way where they are met by a |
bow, and sometimes added |
fullness, which is laid away out of |
sight in flat pleats. Frequently the
two middle forms are of velvet or |
brocade like the plastron, while the |
stof the basque is of gros grain. 1t |
is not unusual to see the back of the |
basque extend half a yard below the |
waist, or even more. When no full |
ness is added, lengthwise flaps are set
on in two OF the seams, precisely like |
those on gentlemen's coats. The new
est sleeves have faring cuffs. turned |
down toward the wrist, with pleatings
in the outer seam, heidyby a buttoned
strap OF by, bows v hs
Square aprons are also revived, of /
two or even Of four separate pieces,
straight in front, almost as long as the
lower skirt, ard merely joined by rows
of boWs.-RG1pe1's BazQr.