The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-01-21
ALASKAS GREAT VOLCANO.
ASCENDING TO THE ICE-CLAD CRA-
TIERS or ILY1MN1.
A Mysterious Region that the superstItious
Aboriginal Alaakinns never Venture into
Perilous Journey Amply Reward d.

Fro,n ne san Franciico Carotici..
The eastern shore of Cook Inlet is low
and level. tho mountain chain which extends
from the head waters Of the NOukon to tho
kenai peninsula reccding from thirty to nifty
miles inland, the interv ming space forming un.
numbered " tundrns tswampy prairlcsl. divided
by timber belts Of spruce and birch Of stunted
srowth. The water Of the "tuudras ~ finds an
outlet In hundreds Of creeks and rivdets which
cut their way to The sea tn deep fuyiues. the red
color and strong metallic taste Of tie water in
side OF the inlet the mountains rise ahrupily
out ~ the W tter. leaving only small piece ~
sandy beach here and there; Tho highest peak
of this chain, which forms the Ouckbone 81 tho
peninsula Of Alaska, from which the Territory
was named is Mount llya'nna. AN active vol
mouth OF The Kenai this mountain Law due
west, and the first rays OF the rising sun wnuli
strike it's undiscovered conc. mtkinR u nash
forth from the misty veil yet unDi ken ~ the
morning breeze. The distance rom - Nlchoas
across the inlet is about forty niles. but tine
restless nature u lyahna makes llsell lclt even
here, though separated by deep arm 81 the
ocean. whenever the smoke anu steam ceased
TO rise from the crater oi me volcano, we an,
ferent communities oi the vicinity are informed
Of the fact by shocks Of earthquake moro Or los
violent. An old chief Tried 10 illustrate this
phenomena to me by closing the spout Of
boiling kettle and bidding me observe the mt
Ing of the lid 10y the steatl-a pretty good
reasoning on cause and effect for an Indian.
The natives tell of a terrible eruption IN l0A,
lomonite on the eastern shore as ha"iug been
thrown across uu that occa-tn 70. but think tucY
rolled down the steep CLIFFS IN the winter un to
rent wnen the fields broke uu in e., SPRING.
II had been my wish 60 wilt Tins volcan' from
not serve until August. lStq when the CAPTAIN
Uf trading slO1p uS red go take ne near
enough to the shore 20 allow me TO Land iu a
bidatkn, anu To cruise - the vi .c' az in IN
week TO take me back. Inc natives do not like
10 visit hi4 Iesioi' ldiht u in -nucr,iiipu'
awe. AND undrriuuN the iiir ainne. Nitrr mo
sloop had crossed tine inl''. the pr -Hcct was un-
inviting enough. The wh .ie comet seemed ono
continuous line Of uuprDNcn oicn>, r.. tre white
fOum learing up hisa un the ALMOST perprntl 'd-
Tar black Wails OF ua.alf 'and lava. A. las We
esyled "a liftle ban, where A ~lli n stretch OF
beach Indicated ihc outlet of a rNulet ~
trail or trace Of man was Ni-iuie. bat when |
EMERGE from tie raNlns / VS. a.f.nl-nel TO
dnd thatwhal had scented otiy dnHrrpw strip u
brush OH the iuuuni ala side ir'm tie inlet was
Ia ielli, 80 'l9h. plateau If several miles
width covered with Timber o4 rcsr,ct lIic Size.
ls,uuicrrd l1n. icisGr1ly over the siclIin. car
pet Of moss.
cANPlNG OFT.
Some bear trails crossed NV course, but the
only animals encountered that daV were rein
deer luey naruly noticed me, by turning their
great tlue eyes IN my direction. Night was com
Ing ON, and though disked TO break the peace
ful silence about me, | hal my supper to get; an
neghbOrhOOd Just then aud the report Of my
ride called laundering echoes from all the ra-
vines and crcyces Of old liyamua, for the first
time. probably, for many a year. After all this
noise had passed away picked up fDur-pound
bird and camped on the first creek that crossed
nv road. Fuel was plenty. \ few large strips
of bark neeled on spruce trees and an armful or
two OF moss supplied couch and shelter. when
MY lfoilru hlfQ hhu grown htlutliuilN less. ana
my appetite decreased IN the same ratiO, TOOK
a short survey OF my surroundings. IL was d ,rk
now but the night was clear, and over the tops
oil The trees could SEQ llyamna rising ia one
solid pyramid. The craters Of the volc no are
not on the same side Of the mountain with my
canning ground that night, but was reminded
OF their vicinity 10y a low rumbling sound tnat
started me out OF nv first slumbers. stirred
up the hre, md sat 10 awaitin. further develop
nlcnts. Another gruwl came ia about half an
hour, and then silence reigncd Supreme.
Tho sun was W high wnen woke next morn
= q. "A
tiscuits carried with me, drink of water, and
was ON ny road again. While gradually ascend
Ing through the timber came to a place where,
under the shelter Of an oyerhnnging rock, some
body had camped long, long time ago. por-
reach 1t. was still blackened by the smoke. and
some charred sticks Law in sheltered hooks
While pushing aside some OF these sticks with
my foot, displaced thick covering OF moss
that had partially grown over them, and be
leather. The spring was rusted away, but with
the help 81 my knife broke in one side; inside
were some matches and piece Of sperm cand d
wrapped up ia a leaf Of Russian PRAYER book
The matches, however, Of Russian make, proved
that the place had been visited since 1910. Soon
after this little incident got out of tne belt Of
timber, and climbing over some huge granite
bouders came on TO a broad field OF lava that
extended upward on the side OF the mountaiI
until It was lost IN snow. / concluded to follow
up this lead" a. most likely " take me TO the
crater.
THE LAVA
must have been several years old at least for II,
surface worn smooth by the action Of snow
and ice upon IT, This made the walking rattle
tiresome, and With boots on my feet / could moi
have accomplished II at all, but mOccasins al
low tue feet to cling to the least prOtruding OBJ
Ject or the slightest uneyenness In the surface
AT place where some block OF basalt had d.
yided the lava current Il spring was gushing
forth. looking clear and tempting, but II wd-
Iukewarm and tasted strongly OF sulphur. After
q fatiguing ascent along the lava bed reached
the snow line and shaped my course around the
mountain, just beyond the snow. The view
from here was not obstructed except toward
the east, by the mountain itself TO the north
aud south stretched one long chain OF snow,
the west the horizon was bounded by nOthinI
but the meeting Of sky and broad Pacific While
j was feastlng my eyes another slight shoes
made itselfsfelt, and Insignificant "a 1t was Il
sufhced TO loosen mass 81 snow above ant
start IL down the lava track had just climbed
1t did not have the dimensions of an Alpine
avalanche, but had been where was half al
hour before, this present sketch would hay,
point of projecting cliff and there lay befor,
me the object Of my search mile or two be
meath my standpoint was a crater. an opening o
oval shape, emitting clouds Of steam and coal
black smoke The edges of the black abys
were Jagged and uneven, except on two places
where lava had escaped very recently,
FOUND on close examination. From where
stood ] could sec nothing TO prevent nea
approach. j started on the descent at once
but when ! had reached point about -
yards from the western extremity OF the crater
found my further progress stopped bY a bee
Of ashes. tho hard crust Of which would no
bear my weight, and as was afraid Of cutun
tho buckshlh OF my mocc4sin', there was moth
ing left TO me but To Keep along tne ed :e Of III,
impoIimeut uuiil could ma an oppOrtunty l,
cross. This course led me back IN the direction
mad come Tor about two miles, and then
deep rayine became visible, with stream ii
the bottom, aud thickly studded with magma
cent trees. ~ TINS time the sun was goin
down la the o. IAN, and determined to 20 int
camp and gather strength for the fatiEucs q
the morrow. The creek proved To be the out
let Of a hot spring. An Immense number q
anti.r, Of reindeer demonstrated that this mus
be a. iaYOTile resort Tor these quadrupeds, an
the whole bottom Of the rdvine was crossed b.
their tracks. few minutes suinecd to gathe
berries enough to make good meal, in con
junction with the dried salmon and biscuits
carried, but for drink had to rely on the con
tents Of my flask. My next move was to fortf
for the night, 30 as to secure some much-need
ed I, st. with my bear knife ! cleared wild
circle Of grass and shrubs and then constructe
all around its edges a baTrcade of deer'r antler
which could not be broken by any body or thin
without considerable noise. In the centre
butt a fire, and then stretched out undera phi
OF dry, matted moss, my right hand upon m
rifle. II was dark now, and above me stretched
clear. starry sky nothing was to be heard bu
tho liant ripple OF the stream near by.
A CLOUD OF SMOKE
occasionally hid the stars from my view in IN
direction pl the crater generally followed by
snort lurld glare, but no rumbling noise q
shaking was prrreptible that night. AT tn
INST break Of day awoke thoroughly chilled
the hre had been ont for some time and H.
water had left standing in small tin Gu