Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-02-12
TuE FRENCH COOKS BALI.


>ye,i-' Features OF the res'i-i'ies Tt
Lsiibs OF rts CEisiRe-SOHtc 81 sts Fta-.-'
" The New York French Cooks Ran j. 20
Ilsin English o; IL. TIE bali o. tha 5 RI =
O. tt1aolye PhiiGlfhylFi2ae de Acir YORK tlet
ca ~ who gave 81. rhe Managers tleo J ~
names As prnha oiy The same as that or .n-v.
GeneTot GgHOTu IN the play. She thought
that - pO'asae re fe7 ne du ndftge" sounded 90
much sweeier than 4" boiled potatoes, !"
though. as was suggested 10 her the potato s
lasted precisely the same In both languages.
30 the fIeuch title OF the association Is
doubtless Thought 10 be much more digDified
ard agree able In sound than the plain Eng
lish OF IL would be But variation of name
Will not vary the character OF the entertain
meat. Nothing would signify the latter
exec pit possibly, tue generous and charita0le
purpose OF the association; for ~ the bottom
81 this, as OF ali the principal public balls In
MS city, "sweet charity" is The motive for
display and extravagance. The annual balls
OF the society are as far from digniied as 10
is POSSIBLE TO imagine. They are strictly
circnmspect, always harmonious, but
. free and easy. sort. Certainly t,visI
AID boisterous to q happy de gree.
formal lntroductions are not an absolute
REQUIREMENT among the guests who meet for
the nrst time, and ..unbending Stiffness" IL
not positive and Indispensable requisite
Of The gallant. Except In one special feature
the balls OF the .'SOctete Cssliadire Ihilaarhro-
ptque do not differ from those of any other
charitable association. When one bali IL
descIlt ted all are described. There is ALWAYS
fair mot the best music, numerous dances
generally four or Ave round dances 10 one
quadTtlle), tasteful decorations and large
attendance. A social feature OF this ball
as indeed OF every French and German ball
might be mentioned en- palaSdlf, p8rttcll
a. IL Is feature unknown AZ public balls
under American management. IL is tie
presence always OF numbers OF cbildneg Of
hoth sexes, ofages ranging from 10 10 II. e. IA
child dressed appropriately, and each dauc-
ing, In the round dances at least, as II their
young hearts were never again 10 beat re
sponslNe 10 band OF music. Toe French
man or the Teuton taxes his child with him,
70 me oall- room; the American relesates
him or her, as the case may be- 10 the muir
seTy. Nhlch Is the wlsest Is not for this
critic to determine.
The one special feature which makes the
readily guessed from the name-it is The
dinner. This is made up from contributions
from all the skillful and renowned cooks
tirst-class hotels, like the Fifth Avenue,
Windsor. Everett, Clarendon, st. Nicholas
Gilsey, Hotel Brunswick, and most OF the
others OF lower class in New York, as well
as the chief restaurants, such as Delmonico's,
Jauch's, and Taylor's NOW st. Denis b otel,
as well as the chief confectioners, like NJ al
lizard, employ "chief cooks" at salaries fabu-
lous TO the mind of those who pay SIS and
$50 month to their domestics. Many OF
these cooks in the metropolis-and there are
not merely tens but hundreds OF them here
receive as much as $1,000 and $1,000 Der an
mum for supervising the cuisine OF their
several establishments. Cooking is an art
with them, and they give 10 IL a study as de-
voted as that which many other recognized
arts are supposed to receive. These and
hundreds OF other cooks in minor establish
ments form with their wives, the '.S1cietc
Ct8adire Phadnthropi4ue i" and annually FOR
last years past each has been accustomed To
provide for the ball OF the society piece oC
pastry, confectionery, or more substantial
decoration for the table. OF course ea-h
endeavOring to Guido the other, and when
me pieces are displayed at sight for the OBJ
servat1on OF the assembling guests each
cook has representative Oh hand 10 explain
MS contribution If il has any mystical or
pOetlcal meaning, or its composition il IL is
Intentionally disguised. Last night thirty
tables were loaded down with the voluntary
contributions OF the chief COOKS, and formed
a sight at once pleasing and bewiliering.
The salmon "a FISH with but one bone aid
that prominent special development forms
good subject for the artist OF the kitchen,
and evidently favOrite one, for each table
last night held salmon in some shape or
another. But no two were alike in their dis
gulse-aDd all were disguised in some form
OF curious and beautiful pastry or CONNECTION.
cry. Salmon wearing toe Stars aud Stripes:
salmon bearing alOft the tri color OF France:
salmon cevouring miniature fish Gin sugar
or cream); salmon being devourei in turn by
other hsh; salmon in every form and OF every
size were TO be seen on all sides. Huge pieces
OF roast beef or saddles OF mutton or yeniSOn,
and not only of these. but OF antelopes, too,
were disguised in overlays of Jelly or sugar
or confectionery, and in some instances
where taste was Violated for Oddfty, with
what seemed to be ice cream. Pates (Which
Is TO say piesl predominated next 10 the
favorite FISH. There were pies made Of every
known bird, and disguised in every imagin-
able color and form of jelly. s.Cb,elJertee de
cdMes Ia SoyeT" was the title under which
outlets OF quail were disguised-a nice dish
formed of the wing OF the quail and the part
OF the breast naturally attached 10 IL,
cooked In the ordinary manner in which veal
outlets are prepared.-lN Y tribune.