The Anderson intelligencer. [volume] (Anderson Court House, S.C.) 1860-1914, 1876-03-02
LETTER FROM FLORIDA.
From all Occasional Correspondent.
PALArKA FLA. Feb. Is. 1876

MEssRs. EDITORS: Southwark Ho was the
watchword as our pleasant party steamed
out of Charleston harbor en- route to the
Gland of Flowers" A safe and expeditions
journey brought us to Jacksonville, the
great commercial metropolis of Florida,
where the weary tourist welcomes with do
light the opportunity offered for rest and
refreshments before proceeding up the river,
where the great tide of travel is ever flowing.
And one is always favorably impressed with
! even casual glance at this "Gate City," as
it might very properly be termed. Then
how much more attractive does it become
when we note its numerous large, well-kept
hotels, its handsome private residences, gar
dens, groves of semi-tropical fruits, its
churches, splendid stores and shops, pictur-
esque walks and drives. Jacksonville,
named in honor of Gen. Andrew Jackson,
is situated on the st. Johns River, about
twenty-five miles from the sea-coast, and
contains about $1,000 inhabitants, while at
this season the floating population greatly
swells its numbers. Arriving at the wharves,
one is struck with the great amount of ship
ing of every kind from the large sailing
vessels to the fine steamers, yacht and pleas
ure yawl, where they lie in readiness to
transport freight and the tourist to other
points. There is very great competition
between the steamers, and here may be seen
boats from the Hudson and other Northern
waters, which have come to ply up and down
the river and share in the monopoly which
has so long been enjoyed especially by the
staunch old "Brock Line" of steamers
Taking one of the latter, we soon leave
Jacksonville in the distance, and are gliding
smoothly up the st. Johns, grand sheet
of water which, unlike any other river in
the q. s., flows directly north for near four
hundred miles, when turning abruptly it
empties into the broad Atlantic. In some
places it is eight miles in width, and in no
place is it less than one mile from shore to
shore. The St. Johns is Justly celebrated
for the wild and picturesque scenery along
its banks, and was appropriately named by
the Indians, who first glided unmolested
over its sparkling waters, Welaka, meaning
chain of lakes; and one of the most charm
ing incidents of trip up the river is to note
the succession of lakes which flow out here
and there, many of them navigable for large
steamers. AS We sit in dolce far neinte on
deck, feasting our eyes upon the magnificent
panorama which nature has spread before
us, our senses are charmed with the visions
of beauty and fragrance which greet US on
every side. Now we pass cultivated estate,
or cozy cottage almost obscured by the
dark, rich foliage of the orange, lemon and
waving banana; then perchance our steamer
wends her way into some green cave Of the
river, whose banks are shaded with graceful
palmettos, giant magnolias, bay, laurel,
cypress, fragrant myrtle and other native
monarchs of the hammock, oil draped with
the nevcr-failing festoons of long, grey moss
which waves to the breeze and watts us the
perfumed breath of the "balm of thousand
flowers" in all their dewy freshness.
The first place of importance after leaving
Jacksonville is the village of Mandarin, the
scene of fearful Indian massacre during
the Seminole war, but now the peaceful
abode of about $50 inhabitants, and the
pleasant winter resort of the celebrated
authoress of "Uncle Toms Cabin" Hiber-
mia is pleasantly situated on an island on
the opposite bank of the river, and Magno-
Liza, few miles distant, shares with it the
charms of an agreeable abiding place during
the winter season.
The most fashionable watering place on
the river is Green Cave Spring, charming
resort much frequented especially on ac-
count of the heath-giving properties of its
waters, which, though strangely impregna-
ted with sulphur, is as clear as crystal, and
averages temperature of 75o. At almost
any hour of the day may be seen merry
party in gay bathing costumes, who, with
the quiet invalid, perhaps, enjoy the luxury
of the bath while sporting in the waves.
Passing other landings of less importance
we reach Tocoi, an old Spanish settlement,
and now the terminus of the st. Johns
Railroad. Here for several days our party
enjoyed the hospitality of Capt W, q
courteous gentleman and officer of the U. s.
Navy, who, with his charming, accomplished
wife and other kind friends, contributed in
many ways to make pleasant our brief So
journ in their midst.
From Tocoi we took the Railroad for st.
Augustine, the oldest town in name and
date in the United States, although the hand
of the capitalists is rapidly effacing its ancient
landmarks, and modelling it after more mod
ern styles of architecture. The iron horse
dashes through varied track of scenery on
its Is miles course to the city. Now we
steam over the level e1panse of prairie land,
covered with pines and scrubby palmetto
now we dash through wild rayine of tan
| gled growth, made fragrant by the perfume
of the honeysuckle and jassamine next we
whirl rapidly past wild natural grove OF
oranges which is not an infringement upon
the scope of fancy to term the Garden Of the
Hesperides, with its golden, forbidden fruit,
tempting the senses. Arriving at st. Angus
tine, we enter the city by crossing the st.
Sebastian River on the west, and soon find
ourselves in the narrow street that leads to
the Spanish "Plaza de 10 Constitution" a
park in the central part of the city and much
frequented by all classes. North of the
Plaza is the Romish Cathedral, which,
though it has stood the storms of near two
centuries, defies alike time and decay, and
the ancient bells that swing from the cross
in the Moorish tower still call the faithful
to orison and confessional. The old Cathe.
dral is built of coquina, which is conglom-
Grafton of earth and shell, dug in large guam
titles an Anastasia Island opposite the city
The interior decorations of the Church, its
gorgeous stained glass, memorial altars, ina
ges and paintings, present an antique and