The Ottawa free trader. [volume] (Ottawa, Ill.) 1843-1916, 1876-12-02

silk, and riding astride of a large and well
kept mule. She evidently regarded our party
of unbelievers with pious horror, and drew
her 'yashmack more closely around her as
we passed.
"Atlerward came water buffaloes, ungainly
but goodnatured beasts, carrying consider.
able portion, if not the whole of their owners
families upon their backs. Every now and
then some well-todO native cantered past on
handsome Arab horse, and looked with con-
tempt on the humber means of loComotion
adopted by his poorer brethren. But by far
the greater number of people were on foot :;
the women closely yelled walking together,
each with at least one dusky cherub riding
astride on her shoulders. Every ones face
beams with good humor, and il is clear that
for this day at least the poor oppressed Tel
lah' has determined to forget his troubles.
No financial difficulty seems to weigh upon
his spirits, and no political complication to
cloud his horizon. To see him walking with
springy step through the cotton fields with
the sunny sky Of Egypt flecked with the
White wings of the soaring rice birds over
head, one can scarcely realize his deplorable
condition.
From the edge of the canal to the summit
of the fartherest hill ones eye meets nothing
but an unfroken mass of temporary dwell
| ings. Nor are there wanting inmates tor all
these habitations Their presence is soon
dlsacreeably manifested to us by powerful
odor for these people, whatever other virtue
they possess, are always wanting IN that of
cleanliness. Dense crowds of people of all
ages are standing or squatting about IN every
imaginable costume, mingled with camels,
oxen, donkeys, and horses, IN apparently in
extrlcable confusion. OF course, to attempt
| to pass without assistance through this mass
of humanity would be hopeless, but fortunate
ly, when few minutes before sunset we start
on our rambles, the thoughtful care of our
friends has provided W. with two stalwart
Arabs, who act the part of janissarles. These
march IN front, and by dint of shouting,
pushing and elbowing their fellow.citizens
Contrve to leave us clear space in which to
walk. Our protectors are armed with stout
sticks, with which they strike out right and
left, and enforce their observations upon the
heads of the passers by. To such an extent
is this carried that we are obliged now and
then to interfere to check the excessive zeal
of these selfconstituted authorities. What
amuses one Is to see the easy, good .tempered
way IN which the crowd submits to be thus
hustled md beaten, merely utterlng the Gus.
tomary Arab observation, 'Maleschr when
more than usually severe blow falls upon one
of them.
after while we quit the city, and get out
in the suburbs, where to all appearances an
immense army is bivouaCking. Here, where
we are refreshed by cool breeze which rus
ties among the palm trees, a variety of curl
Gus sights present themselves. In one cor
ner Ibrahim or Mahemet is displaying his
skill as 'hawy or juggler, by the light of a
petroleum lamp, to q crowd Of admirers. In
another, Hassan, seated cross.legged upon
the ground, is relating stories to an audience
that by the tokens OF appreciation they give
appear TO find them of a most diverting char
acter. Next we come across retreshment
booths on the benches of which are sQuatted
for hours together Arabs of the better class,
smoking and drinking coffee, as if that were
the aim and end Of their existence. Among
the entertainments provided the chief Is, OF
course, that of the 'Ghawazeels,' or dancing
girls.
Their performance takes place IN big OBJ
long tents, open TO every one, and provided
with divans round the sides for the accom-
mediation Of the spectators. In most Of the
tents there are two of these girls, who are
said to belong to distinct tribe, and who
usually dance during the whole night They
are all young, and generally pretty, with a
tawny complexion and magnificent eyes, the
effect of which is heightened by the applica-
ton of KOHL and they have besides remarka-
bly, small hands and feet The dress consists
Oh u Snll WITH Wlue sleeves, open III lTOul,
with short skirt and combinations. They
all have ornaments-mostly made of gold
coins strung togelher-around their necks
and wrists, and have often large ring OF the
same material through the nose and others
in their ears. The dancing, which goes on
to the sound of very moDotonous Arabic mu-
SIC, is always the same, and chiefly consists
| of a rapid vibratory motion of the hips, from
side to side, while the body is kept perfectly
molionless. This is followed by more de-
monstratiye movements, which must be seen
to be appreciated. An occasional subscrip-
ton of piastre a head suffices to defray the
cost of the entertainment. Beside the Cha
wazeels, there are great numbers of others
who visit the fair in the hope OF obtaining
husbands, and for various purposes, and these
usually live apart IN tents by themselves, and
throw aside much of the restraint commonly
observed by Egyptian women in regard to the
| other sex"
| We didn't think we ever should, but we do
Pity the potato bug, we mean, or the potato
| Ia ha N 81