Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-04-01

the small and wonderfully natural feld and
garden flowers, OF the long trails Of dark sea-
weed, In which buttercups, daisies or pond
lilies seem 10 have been caught and impris-
oned; OF the cowslips, tied into balls and
formed into wreaths, as thousands OF little
of Scotland mingled with white heath; of
the primroses and mignonette. which might
have been picked out OF Miss NotfOrd's gar
den; and finally OF lovely lace, trimmed with
crowns formed of lovely English field violejs,
OF field daisies or field roses, and the modest
little "none- such"
There is nothing new In the shape OF the
bonnets, except that they are less fiariug,
ard partaKe more OF the cottage" shape
Some are compressed at the back, SO as 20
form a quaint little cap curtain. aud tue
newest French styles are decidedly small
CT, and revive the quiet, plain capote and
cottage forms. OF course there are stu
plenty OF bonnets with wide open brims
and very striking and rant appearance,
but the fact that the tendency Is towards a
style less pronounced is sign OF better
things 10 come. Few dark chips o. straws
are seen; pale tints presiomlnate, w tn trim
ming of olive tinted silk, old valenciennes
lace, or the real cachmere lace bleached
ivory, white and mingled In long, scarf like
ends, with trails OF weeds. grasses ana wild
flowers. Instead OF the wreaths which faced
the brims last year, there are caps Of quilted
lace, usually valencienncs. as being more
becoming TO the faces. and often ties OF lace
which are usually bowed under the chin.
Bralds OF gold and silver, mingled with
SILK, are used for edging both hats aad bon
nets, gold and black being emplovei for the
black Donnets, white silver and silver for The
cream and white straws and cAps. A very
fashionable combination in trimming con-
siAtS OF the different shades ia wneat-pale
green, half ripe AMI ripe. II also forms very
beautiful ornaments In the wheat itself
mingled with peoples.
A quiet little cottage bonnet OF English
straw was trimmed with black ribbon crossed
upon The crown, wreath OF black hearted
aDemones and antnside cap OF valeBcienncS
snd quilted net. IL was good 10 see this qui,t
nttle bonnet, which had an English Look
though 10 was Partisan, the work OF a Rus
sian artistic married 10 a Frenchmau as one
could see by the name.
EASTER COSTUMES.
AS for the costumes, tney are much inn
up into parts, and therefore more true 10 the
principles OF architecture, IL not of art Salts
are really composed OF three pieces instead
OF tbirty-six-the skirts and a basoue-the
upper skirt straight, shirred at the sides so
as 10 raise 10 slightly, and dTaped naturally
al the back, which need not omen eNcepting
CROUCH 10 admit OF It's passing over the head
Many suits are made without oversklrtS the
skirt simply Shi red or trimmed with bToai
Iiagonal folds upon the front, aud drapet at
me BACK IN scsnt pufis 1t must be always
remembered that SkirtSare cut very narrow
consequently there is very little fullness 10
dispose OF. Trimmed skirts, however are
only practicable for spring materials, which
can be made upon a lining or grenadines
lined.
Checks have fashionabIy given Mace 10
clustered stripes and damaSgue patterns in
ibe more expensive fabrics, though they
still hold their own In popular favor Hand
some WOODEN damasks in grissille, dark blue
ana cream, ivory and bro gn, and the self
color, are used for the princesSe, the sheath
and the '.1uiVe' pOlOn8iSeS, with faille skirt,
ana sleeves OF SELF or contrasting color.
Summer camels hair. a fine all-wOOl fab
rlc, is imported in clustered stripes FOR the
upper part OF the dress and in perfectly plain
material for the skirt and sleeves. These
stripes are graduated in size, commencing In
hair lines and enlarging 10 half an inch Tae
colors consist OF two blues-"old" blue and
french Blue-two browns, two greys and the
IKE, The open-meShed fabrics are beautiful
as ever IN brown, ecru and daTs blues.
Brown linens are barrel In close stripes by
narrow black, white, dark blue and Cardi-
nal red lines. IL is more dreSsy and more
becoming than the plain brown and yellow
linens,
THE MANTELET.
Nearly all spring costumes are finished
with little mantelet or jacket of the same
material as the dress, whether this is wool
or faiile. Favorite dresses are made Of the
very darkest shades of green. blue, brown
and plum color in all faille, To be accompa-
med by pale tinted hat, gloves and tie, the
latter OF lace. These costumes are nearly
always accompanied by small msntelet
al d are most distinguished. A cloth jacket
mars their completeness. Mantelets are not
lined except with SILK, and are cut Straight
or slightly rounding at the back and short In
Gabrielle morning dresses of black silk or
checked louislne are made with little mantle
let capes, which are very pretty and simple.
They look well for matronly ladies with
Martha Washington caps. Morning dresses
for brides and dresses for young married
ladies are made OF pale shade OF cream col.
ored wooden lace and pale blue, ivory tinted
or Cardinal red ribbons.
LACE OVER DRESSES.
Lace jackets and polonaises take the form
OF basQues with apron fronts and short backs.
but these again are giving place TO prlncesse
polonaises and over dresses which can be
worn over plain pr1ncesse costumes. White
lace is more fashionable for trimming than
black, and for indoor and evening wear, but
black lace Is used most effectively in con-
junction with the new grenadines which are
checked or barred with gold, or silver, and
look exceedingly well yelled and trimmed
with black lace.
THE ULSTER.
Ladies have appropriated the ''ulster,"
and ind IL most useful in linen as a buster
and with some notifications OF its original
form. IL must be understood, however, that
she who wears an ulster must be guiltles OF
tournure; there IL no space TO terrace of ina
that style, and the attempt TO put lady
furnished with such an appendage as a long
Dusue into q garment OF the restricted dimen-
slons OF the ulster results IN ignominiOus
failure. Ladies who want a sensible, COM
fortable travelling dress with which TO Jour
ney 10 the Centennial are advised TO get
louisine, or pretty summer silk, use the
skirt (tT1mmed without Overskirt), with a
short waist OF linen or foulsrd under an
ulster, and put the basque and hustle Of
their souls I'm peace until they reach Phila-
delphla, when, ulster removed. skirt, basque
and hustle viii be In a state OF pristine fresh
ness, and they themselves happy in ths con-
seriousness OF having been sensible for once
al least In their lives. JENNIE JUNE.