The Grange advance. [volume] (Red Wing, Minn.) 1873-1877, 1876-04-26
THE FASHIONS.
A Few Timely Hints to Uunfas hionable Peo-

OOme people regard time spent IN
studying fashions as totally lost, but it
is more than probable that whenever
those people have selections of goods
or articles of clothing to make they
either call upon some well-posted
friend for advice or they make Woe
full plumbers in their choice. A famil-
iarity with materials and customs, as
we'll as with opinions of people of &C.
knowledged good tastes is indispen-
sable to an economical and tasty Sc
lection of fabrics and styles when adj
ding to ones wardrobe: Skill in such
matters and proper consideration will
prevent all disappointments. Fashion
does not mean simply the custom Of
the wealthy, but includes latest i'm
provements in fabrics in most common
use.
Some people might be surprised to
learn in a ''fashion article'' that one
cachemere dress is worth a number of
ordinary suits, and that fine quality
of beige also makes Il servicable dress.
Fashion may refer to that which is
lasting and servicable as we'll as that
which is useless and ephemeral.
There is much that is useful in the
fashions of the present spring. Care
should always be taken to purchase no
very cheap goods, for on many Occa-
sions it will be found that the making
costs more than the stuff, and even if
made at home the wear is rarely in
proportion to the labor bestowed,
when the dress is made and trimmed
in the manner now demanded by the
prevailing custom. Perhaps the most
popular trimmings are fine pleatings
and fringe. The cuirass basque has
had it's day for outdoor wear, but still
retains it's place in the house.
In making upa beige or black cache
mere dress have the skirt trimmed
simply in front with plated flounce,
and the train trimmed with flounce
double the width of the one in 'front.'.
The polonaise is drawn tightly over
the hips and puffed in front, the back
forming a small square train with the
end falling over the tlounce. Over
this may be worn small mantelet
fichu, partly open, made in half point in
the back, fitting the figure and having
pointed ends in front. Fichus in
these suits are almost invariably made
of either beige or Grape de chine.
The regular ''habit'' is a novelty to
be mentioned in connection with fe-
male attire. 1t is true that the
''habit" is only like gentleman S coat
in the back, where it forms long flaps,
and is consequently cut in princess
shape. The front forms a buttoned
cuirass without sleeves. This gar
ment, which is called the Clarkson,
is either made of black sicilienne, and
trimmed with narrow lace, lin which
case it forms a street confection,) of
cachemire trimmed with fringe, or
of ecru, battiste trimmed with ecru
lace
1t must be borne in mind that the
mainstay of a lady's toilet for the
whole season is handsome wooden
dress. Small paletots, visites, or fichu
scarfs are invariably worn with wooden
suits.
A pretty dress may be fine dust-col-
ored serge. The demi-train skirt is
raised for walking purposes by means
of a shirring; the lower part is
trimmed with two bias flounees, put
on with very little fullness, trimmed
with narrow plaitings and bound with
q blue cachemere hem about half an
inch deep. The long polonaise is bor-
dered with the same trimming, and
terminates in two long ends. tied in
the back over the lower part of the
train.
-AnaindOOrse dress may. rDe~~ln:lde.ain
the following manner: 1t is cut prin-
cess shape, with seven seams down
the back; from the waist down the
seams are opened and brown faille
plaitings are inserted, which gradually
become wider toward the bottom.
The brown pockets arei trimmed with
fringe. A brown silk cord with tassels
comes from under the pockets and is
and then taken to the opposite shout
der. The top of the sleeves is trimmed
with knotted fringe jockeys.
Bonnets are at present an important
subject. The demi-saison bonnets are
made of materials matching the suits,
of black silk and white lace: or of
ssgaze neigeuse," handsome transpa-
rant tissue composed of wool and silk.
Some felt hats are worn with soft
crowns and capes made of miscella-
neous goods. The capote is of the pre-
vailing shape. One of the newest
bonnets is baby shape, made of black
broche surah. The crown is soft, the
brim is ruched, and has Valenciennes
on the borders. On the top of the
crown is shell-shaped Valenciennes
trimming and narcissus flowers, which
fall down the back. From this point
come Valenciennes barbes, which are
crossed under the catogan and tied in
a bow in front. Another bonnet is
made of straw in open, work and COW
o,ol will, Aoworc IT ic triD,mo1 1>o