The Portland daily press., 1876-07-17
press Correspondence
To Mt. Desert.
The Shady Side of Steamer Lew iston and
n July Afternoon.

You have been to Mt. Desert and know all
about its glories, but lots of your readers have
come short oft.
The beautiful guide book issued by Loring,
Short & Harmon will inform travellers of the
principal attractions, but like nee, many have
failed to procure one, and hardly realize that
trip there is one of the most desirable things of
this hot season.
With the mercury at 80, and the Cars close
aud dusty, those of us living in the western
part of the state can take no more sensible
route than by the steamer Lewiston. We were
fortunate 10 having guide book, but omitted
our charts and an opera glass, yet without the
latter there is much near at hand to see, and
most travellers will give information to cour-
teous strangers. One other i tenn we omitted
securing state-room; though applying some
hours before the boat left, all the rooms were
taken, and our nights rest was with our broth
er plebeians below, which enables US to note
from experience of the neat and sweet cabin,
the well arranged bedding and life p-eservers,
and the remarkable quiet and order of the full
compartment-even the eleventh hour passen-
gers who had no besths, took the proffered
wraps without complaint, sleeping in peace
till an early whistle off Rockla and brought us
out to see the ''lime rock city, The Chas.
Houghton of this line, and the outside boat ex-
changing with us cords of trunks and tons of
freight, gives the watching passengers good
view of we'll systematized plan of transporta-
tion.
The remainder of our passage is by daylight,
first across the Psnobscot Bay to Castine, SO
green, so clean. SO dignifed aud honored in
history and story. Now comes the beauty of
the tour-through the Eggsmoggea Reach,
stopping at Deer Isle on the right and Sedg-
wick on the left, leaving the towns of Brooks
vile and Brookline unhonored by call, with
main or island on each side for miles. So va
red and attractive is both sea and shore, that
one can hardly afford the time to do justice
over the aldermanic meals this boat affords.
When a boy we used to listen to old fisher
mems tales of success in the vicinity of the
Deer and Cranberry Isles, and of their beauti-
full shores and harbors, so that the places look
ed almost familiar as we went from the Egge-
moggen Reach and passed the Placentias and
Bass Harbor Head, which brought to view the
Cranberry Isles, and we failed to wonder why
these were their favored spots. But as We look
so intently at the water and the islands, the
boat is fast steaming by the mountains. whose
appearance changes with every mile advanced,
and glorious they appear both in approach and
in retreat
But the Island is soon reache /, and our load
ed boat leaves a portion of the travellers at
South West Harbor, and Dea. Clark, with
p,onu othar 10 apIIo-ds nnust oat n ooo1lv nltrn-
mage. Leaving this quiet haven We pass. on
the port side, Somes' Sound and the North
East Harbor, and Suffers and Cranberry Isle
seaward, being again without eyes sufficient to
see the near mountains of Desert, and the nu-
merous vessels tacking among iset openings
seaward. But it would take columns to tell of
the wonders of Mt. Desert, even as seen en- pas.
SAINT, and we haste to turn the Great Head aud
pass Schooner Head, to stop at Bar Harbor,
now the court end Of the island, and leave the
steamer with lightened load to finish the trip
at Machiasport.
As we never saw an officer or owner of the
boat before, or had an acquaintance with an
islander our judgment. of the steamer and the
attractions of the place are disinterested. Our
condensed opinion is-go down by boat, stop at
Bar Harbor, and the other places also.
Bar Harbor has few dwellings, most OF the
houses being hotels. board being from 81 80 to
/ $3.50 day, with good market supplies from
Portland by steamer. We went to the new
| Rodick House, connected with both of their old
hotels making now the largest premises in the
village. In its Immediate vicinity, Messrs. r.
| Hamor s. Sons have about completed four
story hotel, called Grand Central House, near
| their Bay View House. and it will be the most
| commodous lodging on the coast, being 93 feet
| on the east front, and sc feet upon the south
side. which, with its balconies and semi old
| (uewl south looking trio of towers, makes an
| imposing appearance from both harbor and
| hill. This appears to be the only new hotel Of
| the season, though others are under repairs and
| improvements. The Rockaway, Atlantic, and
smaller houses have commanding, neat and at
tractive features. The white, tapering steepled
church. with musical bell, attracted good au
dience, mostly strangers, and though we all de
cided the clergyman to be sound, those with
| musical ears concluded the singing was little
else. But the boat got in, and we con
clude this paper at home, with heat high and
flies furious. and leave off without any account
of rides to shores and lakes and walks to coves
and islands, simply adding that the sail in re-
turn is all the more enjoyable from being more
familiar with the route. U. T. u
asa4, ~