Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-06-01

whole, we have reason 10 be thsrsfIi. the
"stitch. stitch, stitch" thanks to the sew
that old-time virtue, patching. Modern
machiue-made fabrics do not pay for paich.
lng, and men who make money four times
s a. las. rs lhey used, and congratulate them
buy, must remember that they are not made
10 wear like their mothers home spun
men; that making money means spending
with IL for you, and leave you Without the
satisfaction OF having had q pleasure, or
AN ExHIBITIoN OF COSTUMES.
Looking at the convent lace, and the Louis
model couple, and the churches In cork, and
Queen victoria's etchings, "After Land
tennisl (woman's) the other day, wonder
ed why we could not have something mol
erp, something practical on exhibition,
die about dress. At the Alexandra Palace,
In London. they have recently had an exhf-
bition OF costumes, for the best and most
original OF which prize: were otfersj. II is
costumes for which the highest prize was
offered could not be obtained, while the
same thing offered 70 our "woman's" exhibi.
displayed, all belonged to the present periof.
and were more remarkable for the ADAPTATION
OF taste TO the spring and summer styles OF
70, 70 cay man OF any originality. A combine
pfoval, with cord and tassels at the side, and
kuotted fringe. This knotted and daisy
fringe was decidedly the most dis,inJae
trimming The "Jane Grey" was q brown
silk with light cream-colored mautelette
having cords which fell upon the dress, form,
Ing sort OF tnnic, and was ia "exquisite"
taste. A soft clinging make OF silk was used
for the maptelette, which was bordered with
ribbon. The "Damichofr' was another
good example OF the prevailing fashions in
cream SIR, plain aud figured, the Prncesse
polonaise being made of the latter, the skirt
OF plain. Many dresses were laced with
cord down the back. The princess of
Wales" myrtle grain silk, had a success
sion or closely-set and pendant pearls down
the plait OF the back, and on the front OF the
bodice rich Melted cream fringe was intro
duced across the front of the skirt. The
bodices, square or heart shaped, and a long
sweeping skirt; a straw-colored damasse, a
cream and BLOCK trimmed with cream lace
with rich figured cream Teheran, made en-
princesse, and fastening diagonally at the
side, were among the most notable. A
simple style OF evening dress suited for q
with silver braid and silver butterflies, gar.
lands OF width heath dividing the puffings at
the side. There were also brides dresses
and brides maids morning costumes OF
washing materials, and slight and deep
mourning dresses. A charming exhibit was
that for misses OF ten and little girls OF
serge, with q Laveuse tunic, which like
the skirt and loose bodice, were trimmed
with red, on which rows OF white braid were
placed.
The "marine and yachting costumes re-
quire, 1t Is said, special comment, the dresses
exhibited being Of decidedly good style and
M maze a,, "A dark olue serge had all the merit
1t was trimmed with rows OF broad and mar
row braid; the bodice and tunic, cut In one
down In front, had frogs and tabs, and at the
the tunic had the now fashionabls square
sraped end. A white linen yachting dress
was made with loose bodice. Lavender tunic,
OF blue linen and many rows OF white tape
upon 1t. A light blue serge, with n ,habit
bodice, displayed white branding; a white
colored serge, dark brown braldings. They
an evidently fitted to perfection, and were
admirably suited for seaside and yachting
wear. An exhibition OF this kind would
have had the merit of originality, aud a
decidedly interesting part OF the Woman's
Exhibition at Philadelphia. There is nothing
mat mat we lack more than individuality OF
dress. Given change from the ordinary
routine OF their lives, and women are All
out at sea, they do not know what to do
about Ii at all. Above everything, they do
not know how to dress for IL; and com plete
display OF costumes in the twelve classes in
which they were divided for the Crystal Pal
teresting and valuable. There is one case OF
costumes on exhibition In the " Woman's
Building" an after thought probably, for
nor fashionable. 1t gives us a dark, thick
poplin for walking skirt, with thin da-
masse for an upper dress, q combination
There was a sensible reason for the subs.i-
tutlon by fashion OF all silk or soft pure
wooden fabrics for poplin in the modern cos
tune, and II is because either OF them drape
and clean SO much better than poplin JIM
porfant qualities in an rnderskirt or tuuic
SUMNER BoNSErS AND COACHING HATS
1 never remember season when hats
81 QrQ 81 CT ri kiner
part OF the costume as now. Ivory chips
or black chip trimmed with ivory gauze.
lace, and flowers are the most general; but
has adopted the Gains borough and tue "Be
locca," the former large high crowned hat
with broad trim dropping low on the right
saucy witch OF a hat pitched very low over
the forehead, and turned up very hign be.
hind, all the trimming being massed at the
These styles are the rage for "coachinp.v
and are displayed in Leshorn, Panama,
" "t and ready" straw and coarse Florida
high style. The trimmings are coarse c cream
net embroidered with Persian colors. or
edged with cream lace, scarfs of cream col
ored gauze, and garlsnds of grasses, Lsaths,
or wild flowers, small white and mixed with
berries. The "Ingenui" hat is very simple,
1t is broad brimmed sailor hat OF very pale
ivory chip, Panama straw, or coarse fancy
brown ribbon tied In q bow with ends, the
last with blue ribbon q fold OF which ia
placed near but not upon the edge OF the
brim.
Very stylish bonnets have brim of chin
and crown OF checked cream gauze; gar
landed with pale flowers or with half wresths
OF currapts with leaves and long trails
Smalls wells can no longer be arranged with
success upon these irregular shapes, 80 large
squares OF tulle or thin light gauze are inn
prOv1sed and used TO entirely cover the hat
and face in riding upon the outside OF a
"fOur-tn hand" the pretty scarf pins now in
vogue for ornaments fasten them at the
back.
MANTELETS.
The newest thing In outside garments are
small, round, silk, lace or cashmere mantle
lets. In Paris they have taken the form of
the "vtsite," which ladies sufficiently mar
ried may not be afraid to remember. Bat
the mantelet Is the preitiest and simplest
(the "visite" has sleeves) and answers every
requirement OF morning wrap. Judicioas
women have them made en- suite with their
dresses, which is much the better plan, but
for an extra" to wear with "anythingv
black silk, black cashmere and black or
cream colored lace will be found most USE
ful. In lace as In silk or wool they are made
from the piece and trimmed with border of
the same kind and quality Of fabric. Some,
also, are arranged with q foundation of net
and alternating rows of fringe and lace;
these are very graceful and pretty.