The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1876-08-30
From Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
NAVY BLUE WITH CARDINAL.

The fashionable combination of coors for
costumes for the fall will be that now in vogue
in Europe, viz, navy blue with cardinal red.
The navy blue to be used when cooler weather
comes will be OF the ink shades aud of the
queer blue tint known as Sphinx-color, which
is metallic blue that is almost black. The
costume will be made up of wool and silk as at
present; the wool of the over dress will be
India cashmere, camel's hair, or the lame
carree. or square-fgured wooden stuffs already
described among the newly imported fall goods.
The long polonaise will be made of this soft
flexible blue wool, trimmed with merest pip
ings and facings of cardinal silk, while the
lower skirt which is almost concealed, will be
of dark cardinal red silk. Very little of the
red is visible, but there is enough seen to pro-
duce q very quaint effect The polanaise is
long looped bows of ribbon that are partly of
blue gros grain and partly of cardinal red.
The buttons are blue, with cardinal stars en-
broidered upon them, In more conspicuous
costumes navy blue over dresses are trimmed
with gsy cardinal red fringe in the new Moor
ish patterns. With these toilettes the accesso-
res are all cardinal red, such as wells, scarfs,
parasols, stockings, etc. Blue and red with
white-the national colors-have been SO pop
ularly worn here during the summer that it is
predicted the new combination in darker shades
will meet with favor.
PEPLUMS, BLoUsEs, ETC.
The peplum corsage, it is said, will take the
place of plain cuirass basques when the next
seasons styles appear. These are basques made
very long ON the sides, where they may be either
square or pointed, while the front is quite short
and the back has a square position. Other
basques will have very wide Wristbands in
front sat in az the under-arm seams, and not
crossing the back. Worth makes wool dresses
for the early fall with blouse waists that are
held In place by wide belt of velvet, leather or
ribbon Some of these dresses have yokes 10
back but not in the front. Double breasted,
diagonal, Pompadour, and revers fronts are all
announced as being 10 preparation for winter
costumes. The Marie Antoinette collar, pass
ing around the neck and extending halfway
down the 'front.' is revived fashion for trim
ming the fronts of corsages. This gives a full
appearance to the bust and is becoming to slen.
der figures. 1t is made of the wool of tho
over dress .piped with silk like that of
the lower skirt, and ornamented with two
or three tricornered revers on each end. Many
square necked corsages will be worn on full
dress occasions, while palmer dresses will have
the trimming arranged in a square on the
front
The lower skirts of dresses will retain their
present clinging shapes. Over skirts will near
ly cover the lower skirt, and will be made with
scarf fronts, or else very long and full and
draped on the skirt beneath in various fanciful
sod irregular fashions. There are no more
sashes worn, yet the so-called scarfs are mere
~ wide sash ribbons draped across the back or
entirely around the hips
The polonaise is very decidedly in favor
again. 1t is made very long and cnging in
front and on the sides, aud the drapery behind
e neither gathered not Puffed, but is merely
drawn back by one large bow or by the scarf
arrangement just noticed The pocket is
placed so far back that it does duty as trimming
and adds the appearance of fulluess
and OF draDery to the exceeding plain
back width. Sometimes these back
large bow is placed where they are crossed.
All draping is done very far below the tour
nnre.
BRAID TRIMMINGS AND PRINCES
The braids that have been gradually coming
into favor promise to be the accepted trimming
for the winter. Canvas braids embroidered are
the popular trimming in Paris at present.
The ground is WOOL in basket or canvas eat
tern. wrought with flowers or other figures by
machine, just as Hamburg embroidery is done.
Wide braids in one or two rows will be more
used than narrower widths There are various
names for these braids, such as the Breton
braids, with flowers In relief, the valois braid,
brocaded with silver, the Figaro braid, which
Is all wool, and the coat-of-mail braid, COM
posed OF gray or blue steel. The narrow sou.
tache braid is not discarded, but is used in
many parallel lines close together, and even
tapping and producing the effect of single
row OF wide Ealloon The soutache embroidery
was described last week; this must be thick
and closely set to be stylish. Many small gar
ments are almost entirely covered with braid.
For edging garments trimmed with braid,
fringe is the appropriate choice. The new
form the garment itself, and, indeed, many
cardinal capes, fcbus, and tablie:s are made Of
chenille fringe. This is Summer fashion,
however, and will not be so much used IN win
tassels in the meshes, all made of sewing silk.
and varying in width from three inches to six