National Republican., 1876-12-13
COLUMN FOR THE LADIES.

COLUMN FOR THE LADIES.
THE STYLES OF PARLSLAN BELLIES
Fashions Latest Decree-Fans with
Historic Devtces-HoveIfies In Col.
: Ors, shapes and Textures.
PARIS, 1s7o.-It is not strange for people-even
among women in the most extreme wilds Of
America-to occasionally Dwell in pleasing
thought upon the subject of their attire and to
deliberately study the ingenious art of fixing
up"for special occasions; therefore here, IN this
"world Of fashion" quiet observer of the vari-
GUS styles Of Ia mode FraHcaise may be excused
for venturing to write fashion letter for the
national organ at the Capital, This is not meant
for the Congressional savans, nor the Executive
dignitaries-at least not for the male portions OF
those respective institutions-but rather for the
leisure-like. nothing -to-do Washington society
ladies, who relish bit Of fashion news OCCASION
ally. .---.---
French ladies have lately been informed by
one of the most popular organs In Paris that they
were never so csptivattngly attired as at present.
never appeared so fascinating and totally irre-
sistible. They believe 1t, and the consequence is
that the length of an ordinary waist has grown
down at the back to three inches above the last
spinal vertebre. As 1t is useless to moralize on
the tyranny of fashion, it is as well to conclude
that If dourreau bodies and tie-back skirts dis
close all the defects Of certain angular shapes,
they have at least one merit, that Of revealing q
proportlonate narrowness Of mind In the wearer.
On the other hand, II stout figures owe all their
plastic perfection to the process Of tight 1t
is sufficiently painful and prejudicial in itself to
"A nrftf ruhn aff al Ia nd
mingles vast amount Of admiration with his
pity. 1t is dihicult to be severe when materials
are selected with such artistic dscernment In the
matter of combinations and color. .-
Woolen-demi toilet suits, mixed with plaitings
Of silk, are evidently the most useful, whether in
marine blue, bronze olive, seal scabious or myrtle
shades. They are rendered more dressy by being
ornamented with plastrons on the bodice and
revers on the sleeves. These plastrons are of rich
cardinal gros grain, and they are covered with
chenille work. silver cord, or even plain braiding
Of the color of the dress. Although the polonaise
robe, made as long as the undsrskirt, is still SO
much in favor that It is almost uniform, yet q
dress in three pieees-jacket, tie-back tunic and
skirt-fnds numerous adherents. The fact Is
that in spite of all inventions polonaises
not be made skin-like enough, and those who
maintain an old-fashioned regard for
UNDER PRrrIcoATs
must either adopt q toilet in three parts or get
into forreau adversity from top to fnstep while
they are provoked to find that all the drapery
they want on their bodies trails tar behind the
ground. Very wise, therefore, is the maintenance
Of pretty matte, damasse birds eye and diaper
woolens. None of the rich Lyons tissues are
made up for comfort; the armures, ribbed stand
up silk cloth, the yelvets and brocatels are used
for combinations Of three and even four different
materials Of the same shade. The trains are
made Of cloisonne hrocade on stout gros grain,
the bodices and trimmings are embossed velvet,
the bands are satin and the plaitings either
gauzeo or crepe usse, but the one shade must be
preserved throughout. r-' F.. %. -e...
o.. ...Ers.-l. FLOWERS.
!; The flowers or marked embroidery selected fol
these rich dinner dresses mark the contrast OF So
many different tissues by coming in between. A
great feature in evening dress bodices Is that the
lover edge Of cuirass basques is never trimmed
but hides all round either scarf draperies or gar
lands Of foliage, which, after ehcircling the fg
ure, fall In full trails down the train. Another
nossl sysn1ng toilet simplicity, WhiGs doe
they affect to put on nothing but white. Thu:
the newest dresses Are white barege or white or
and bows on long satin ladders, called
=, 81 ssfMPER ET NouRIR,"
in souvenir Of Romeo,s ascent TO the balcony The
simplicity Of white Is rendered all the more won
derful by being embroidered all over with silver
: cord. White cashmere Is marked In like manner
With WITH Jessanine and JSnauil an passe, Or with che
other designs. r...-- zr'.-
The great success of the day is the vestalt
robe In honor of the new piece hRomevaincu.'
Jfetes. It is only q Jewess overdress fastened OF
one shoulder to the left, and under the arm Il
the right. 1t requires bodice to be worn under
meath, and, according to the material chosen, 9
vestale can be adopted for afternoon or evening
The prettiest mixtures for silk and velvet fol-
cashmere and faille, for millinery, &c. are bronze
and biscuit, myrtle and blondin, marine and
cardinal, prune and cieL olive and pistatche, Gle
and nacre, marron and linden or 'tilleul. The
latter is perfect furore.
. r- A LINDEN PLUSH HAT,
trimmed with wreath of olive foliage, or a gray
felt hat; trimmed with seal velvet, Of marine
blue, pointed shape, trimmed with steel and plush
are the novelties of the day. 81. 60 -
A small cushion Of pale pink plush is worn on
might thus DO gradually introduced
Lemon, blue and mauvs or peaah-colored plush
is used for bows, fchus sc Almost incredible is
Innings Some Of the limitations are perfect, but
others plainly show why rabbit is always on the
menu Of Paris restaurants. Round mufs and
but the fashions Of only hundred years ago are
modern If compared to the medieval purses,
P0c6esd 6esd and f1d
scrolls and the margins Of missals. Feathers and
plumes are worn m languishing attitudes; they
tips only curl forward brfskiy. Pocket handEer.
chiefs are worked with colored silks, and repre-
sent knights in armor or scenes from Cervantes
corner Of linen sets for cuffs and collars MantIes
are either circular lined with tur or
LONG, MANLY-LooKING PALErors.
Some of the latter are made Of very thick cloth,
,rk biscuit or almond color, both checked and
striped, and fastened with large pearl buttons.
The make is tight habit bodice.
Vienna cloth is used for driving garments, and
the buttons are Of the same color. Never, by the
way, were buttons SO profusely used as since
They are sewn on by rows OF three at time. A
dress that comes home with only forty eight but
ms is not expected to be success; the proper
A few salons have reopened, but dinners inau-
gurate the commencement Of q Paris season.
. NOTES OF INVITATION
are sent on tileuI colored paper. and as nothing
n be IN good ton without MEDIEVAL "reminiscences
every one has adopted motto in the corner.
The Queen Of Spain has a swallow. with the
words 'pour cherchsr nsieur," Tin search Of some
thing better.) The old Marquis de -D&s#, who is
and Hss nty has
mes Rens.'' a have whitened under my tles.)
A very aristocratic beauty who will have moth
sories sceur qui virenf dans les kaeurs sont soIi
tGires," (they who live on the heights are soil.
tary.) The figure around which these words are
ing motto in italian for mourning is aPiango suc
noTfe q mia vftdt," II mourn his death and that
! must liye.) perfect Don Juan In his way
has, "Dd Pdrdore, Pdrdire,n which implies that
the person Is bold because his feelings are
ardent. A coquette explains the variableness of
her ways by adopting weatheroock In the GEN.
tire of four winds, and the works, 81 do not alter
but am altered by these" signifying that all
changes are suggested by manly instigation, the
wipds being of the masculine gender.
There are many other such devices, but fans
are the m ost speakingof
LADIES GRACEFUL WEAPONS.
It is proposed that the most glorious events In
the family annals Of the noblesse shall be re-
corded by the painters brush on this indispens-
able article. Thus, any warlike or praiseworthy
deed accomplished by ancestors is to be depicted
on the light leaves. Valuable fans in the pos.
session Of persons whose ancestors have not thus
distinguished themselves will represent some
national event worthy of COMMUNICATION or
some beautiful reproduction from the wearer' s
favorite author. The Duchess of Medina Celi
has ordered o series Of fans to be painted in honor
of Cervantes, and the first shows Don Qulxote
being shaved by ladies. The ground is cardinal
red, the figures pale blue. Another article of
dress to be profusely illustrated with needle
work Is the Rimini satchel. third novelty Is
the ladies' lantern. 1t IL made Of enamel metal,
and now stands by the side of every chatelaine's
work basket. The fair 20 about IN their rooms
with lantern In hand, projecting a blue red, or
golden ray before them. 1t looks weird and
Strange, and reminds one OF the days when no
such thing as gas was invented. sc
To the floral department roses and mshonia
fruit, vine leaves made of plush and velvet are
the chief attractions. Mahonia is of damson