Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1876-10-20

AUTUMN STYLES IN BoNNETs AND COSTUMES.
IJennie June In tbe Albany Egsning Jeurnall

Hhti. luty lOOk al lue CdIk llnteu
F iabrlcs in the shop windows with longing
and turn with loathing to " make over" an
old dress with material bought cheap, be-
cause 1t is out Of date and tho colcr not
now in demand. The blackness of dark
ness permcates all manufactured fabrics
and gloves. ribbons. Deck-tles, stockings,
everything has to follow suit.
In uniform toilette of fashionable cut
and color q woman looks very much as if a
dark skin had been drawn over her. ilu-
minated with brilliant bit Of tatOOing
here and there, and crowned with bonnet.
The dark shades for street wear are certain
ly and unmisiakably fine; even the prints
appear with black grounds and fine hair
stripes Of clustered maize or crimson and
gold. which afford effects as striking and
artistic as if they were to be worn amidst
the bric-a-brac of u modern drawing room
rather than devoted TO the service of the
kitchen
BARN YARD BONNETs.
II fowls could speak We should certainly
have q remOnstTance from them in regard to
the wholesale slaughter which must have
/ been perpetrated in order to produce the
new things in winter hats AMI bonnets. We
do not now have feathers and wings for
trimming alone. but wonderful pretty toques
I and bCr1ttas,' made entirely OF the
]
/ heads and wings. The imported feather
/ has Coz. be crushed like gentleman's
/ opera hat, and look none the worse for 1t.
! The hlue-sreen breasts Of the pea fowls are
/ in great demand. ard the small feathers OF
/ the poac cl, guinea hen. and even ordinary
/ barn yard fowls, Tor mounting, as bands.
/ toque, crowns and the ike. Ihe heads and
/ breasts OF sea guliS arc Of a mongrel sort,
/ and would not be recognized by any student
/ OF natural history. Ii Is Sufficient if they
/ have bulls and snowy plumage. The MAJOR
| Ity Of tHo buyers are not sufficiently versed
/ il OrnI-hologY 10 be critical.
The sudden enterprise which has been
| put into " fancy feathers Is doubtless due
| 10 the sca rcity OF real ostrich feathers. A
/ long. full. handsome ostrich feather now
/ has positive value like lace and diamonds
/ and j. considered only suItab.e loT dow
/ ayers. elderly ladies. who must console
/ themselves fer the loss OF their youth by
| being permitted TO wear fabrics and orua-
ments older even than themselves.
The newest hats have sugar loaf crowns,
and rarTow hrIms, which are bent close to
1 the head. The brim Is bound with velvet.
and So covered with feathers and enormous
| pufs OF silk, trayer>ed by metal daggers and
/ other sanguinary ornaments, that 1t Is diff
/ cult To tell OF what the hat itself was OrigI-
I q
affected by young ladies, and known as the
Stanley. Differing from these are the
/ English ' Sllt' finished telts. the " Van
dykes whose high crowns are less stIf,
and accompanied by somewhat broader,
more flexible brim-. These aIe genuine
English walking hats, and models for let
hats generally. The edge Is bound with a
twllled silk gaIoore, and the trimming Is
three rows Of silk cord, and a six Glsrette,
OF q band Of sIk .ald ~ ioic-, and a dark
shaded wing. The material i beautifully
finished they are jluutily, Yet mOdestly
shaped. are produced in the darkest fash |
ionah.e shades, ami may be worn with com
fort and mpunlty in rain OF shine. Felt Is |
intended for service, and should not be /
used for dress purposes except by young /
girls who require only one nice hat, and I
whose needs, with their winter suits, are 1
fully net iy the charming pale cream, and /
nas;urtlUm tInjs. trimmed with the suit /
shades in velvet, such as seal brown, lnyisi- /
bic green. and navy blue.
The 80 Naudy ke Lat is sometimes called T.
the " Polo The chief novelty. however, F.
in hats for Young ladies Is the " Beretta, f.
made eut rely Of feathers, gray, white. blue +
green aul tropical tiLtS, OF ulxture--that F.
is white and gray, or gray win bronze I
band down the centre, and another forming /
the hrim These Bere,tas' wIll make the I
most stylish Of rink and skating hats, worn .
with cloth suits trimmed villa braid III /
which gold Cr silver threads are introduced. (
Costume bonncts are made 10 square |
form, with soft crown and narrow pulled .
brin. underlined with color and oycrllned .
with band of glossy feathers. Feathers /
surmount the crown and minzle al the o4cA .
dark shade Of tIo to5y TaI, OF the bonnet I
and the brilliant crimson cr mae ol the .
under part Of the hfm
There are Others more like the " Duca- +
essc bonLets oil tic past season. with tue
hrims thrown up nom the front and filed F.
IN with loo;s and other ornaments, but
these are reserved fox elderly ladies.
WINTER FABRICS.
The dama-k six. which make part of the .
grand toilettc-, are IN leaf and arabcsque
designs, wonderfully shaded IN olive greens.
and browns, iu bronze tin.S, and dark blue,
with cream. crimson and gray, or cardinal
red with bottle green. he susceptibility
of such fabrics L. fine ELECTS is evident
Such q dress i- not very dear at S5oO, Tor
the dama>k a. : per yard, six hot mucn
less. and tie I4aklu- r0qulrc- Two weeks
steady work ly an expert. Then there Is
the magnificent fringe, the lace, ana the
buttons, winch are a. handsome as leweiS.
Next to the L1iill~ ~ IN tDNA tAlt tA' lASH
armures, blended IN two co!ors, one high,
the other deep and dark, as ior example
brown With cream, black with maze, bottle
green with scarlet (thc deep shaded, ard
! gray with dark blue and white. The blend
/ ing of color is 50 perfect IN the rich iebrlc
and iniicitesiral design. that II l. not at
/ all striking. ard with admirable art and
/ skill, in combining the cO.oTs IN the ma K
/ ing, the more snowy Is never made ohtru-
| siye 1t is only permitted 10 appear IN
! glimpscs which vitallze but d. not over
/ power.
| sal IN cloth, and woollen materials when,
/ however, they are uumiIed with any con
] trasting color. though they appear ssli-eo.-
ored in light as well as IN dark shades.
! They are. of course, exceedingly well adapt
/ ID TO no. .snaiseS. but look better trimmed
with the handsome braid-, mohaIr, and with
others. than with six. Soft woolien mater
! ials nave now quite taken the place OF all
I stiff mixed fabrics. Cashmere has super
s.ded alpaca and French poplin, and the
armure cloths must enter almost universal
/ lv into the composition OF winter suits.
For streee wear the combination OF cloth
with velvet promises to be very fashlona-
ble-the yeyet firmng the skirt, pockets,
cuffs and collar, the cloth the polonsl-e or
/ nelisse. to which Is added for cold weather
| double coachman's cape.
silk and velvet Is always " well worn,
but this winter these suits viii be trimmed
with feathers more than with fur.
Prices OF standard articles and fabrics
vary very little. and it Is as true to-day as
it was FIVE, ten, twenty years ago, that
fair silk can be bought for s. per yard and
a very hard.ome one for So per yard, and
il is d1ultful if the prices change greatly
for the next ten years.
DRESS TRIMMINGS.
The noyeit cs in TRAININGS seem t. he
mostly in the line OF buttons and irlnges,
although the new chenille lace which l. ap-
plqued in chenille on old points Is very ct
tectlvc. The revival of chenille fringe, OF
chenille and velvet leaves and flowers. both
for bonnet and dress ornamentatlon, are re-
ceiyed with enthusiasm. for all the art and
skill which Of late years has been exercised
in the discovery and blending Of colors has
been utilized in producing the exquisite
shadircs aud combinations which are seen
TO such advantage in the soft beauty of these
textures. Bat II must be remarked that
chenille fringes only lend themselves happi-
IL 10 rich fabrics. They d. not harmOnlze
with cloth or woollen materials. For these
there Is a new wOollen fringe which is an
improyement on any heretofore manuiac-
turtd. Usually basis of wood Is provided
for the buttons. balls and the like, which