New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1876-08-26
THE FASHIONS.
FALL DRESSES,

both sides of the Atlantic. Skirts are made tighter than
in 'front.' and continued on to the eet whence
a long narrow train trails and twists like serpent
Fashionable women have long since abandoned tho
tournure simply unmanageab,e but there are women
who are ated never TO the fitness OF things
literally speaking; therefore the long narrow awkward
tournure still sod and will be sold just as long as
there are buy IL Is not surprising that Tor
eigners marvel much at the painful prevalence OF mp
and spinal diseases to which they naturally attribute the
ungraceu painful gait of woman struggling along with
her tightly strapped acanty skirts what they call
at Saratoga the "wObbling, wrigglng tournnre."
Partisan modstes who invent American fashions insist
upon the abandonment of oil supcruOus drapery and
moreover It made imperative that the hollow Of the
back al the must be shown that the Ontline Of
the figure be strictly followed, and there be no hollow
to some backs one must be made ana wht Is iihpossF
bic for ingenuity and art to ACCOMPLISH
The artistic classical style OF dress into which women
were put directly after the decline OF cinolne has grad
ualy egenerated skirts strapped back to the feet
utterly destroying all grace OF movement With the ex-
cepton Of occasionally filling order for evening and
ball dresses for the absenees modstes have very LITTLE
apparent work to do in August, but there IL
an undcrcurrent movement OF preparation 1Or inc
Fail season The large wholesale houses have already
unpacked and displayed their foreign and domestic
goods anticipation Of early and busy season. The
fashionable leading colors seal brown and myrtle
rank together with prune dark bottle green, Russian
gray and caret Very dark rich shades and black and
very high c00rs, viii be asiionabie there 70 htue
SAID about delicate and intermediate shades Cardinal
red will take a prominent part in trimmings ribbons
and In dress goods Pekin cloth armures ddndsSe
dagonals cassmeres and cashEeres showa In all OF
the new colors and IN black. The grand opera
cashmere rcappears III jet black and with the heavier OF
lrmer texture OF drap det The fashion OF combination
costumes has given MS manufacture this season In
real molair ddmasSe, presenting the appearance OF
lustrous brocadc silk TGis will be combined with the
silky black sable brilliannc and beautiful beaver mo-
hair also closely resembling silk. The sleeves and skirt
be OF bantne, and the oyefsklrt and basque Or
poonase Of the mohar ddnassf. This comes In all OF
the new and fashionable colOrs, well as in black.
new repcllant cloth in scalbrown appears this sea-
son OF American manufacture, possessing all Of the
gloss and even surface OF broadcoth. Unlike the old
fashioned waterproof this has no perccptDe twii On
either side. Another style has an Invisible stripe go
called because il assumes shaded character instead Of
being defined in plain lines Thcse costumes Will be cx
tensiycly worn Tor travelling shopping, etc.
with the unex pectcd in Silks and the possibility OF
s higher prices ladies advised 10 ose no time In
making their purchases and especially TO choose very
dark shades and plain fabrics as not likely to go out OF
fashion. the Cheney manufacturers or American silks
have 80 far maintained their regular price Of 81 yard
Imported gros grains lose their beauty IN two seasons
anything Ike i made OF them but the Cheney SILKS
seem indestructibe, and finer user after hav
ing been worn several months aud besides possessing
the strength Chinese pongec they have the beauty
and dnc reps OF tie french gros grains. expert
OF the American manufacturer Is an exact imlta
ton the India Tusseh tcru ana cream colored twled
silk the low price Of 81 yard Tie India SILK Is sold
for ~ So ana there Is Florence IN the delicate color
or III II hts soft satny surface, finely twed
aud so firm withal that 1t will for years without
II IA
Lasqrs and oyerskirts united to light sealbrown silk
The Wholesale merchants In millinery and fancy goods
display quantities OF ho"ers, Significant OF
coming events and September openings These exquisite
flowers must surely place feathers at discount Among
e new arrivals are tiuts unknown boanists which
are all the priced for their charming Oddly
There are great masses of bronze leaves vcned with
sold: Autumn-,nted leaves gray, hectic, wormeaten,
swayiuc from flexible stems; and dGsky grape leaves,
win clusters OF little Wild grapes upon which yet fingers
the faint purple bloom. IalblOwu, delicious roses OF
richest GImask, br ;Ltcst crimson and vivid cardinal
minge with The soft creamy tcroses in full bloom and
dark branches OF real sageeaves, OF green made
by nature aud prepared by art Ia contrast, with sken
p.taled, velvet and satin tropical blossoms and dark
foliage MOSES. twigs, and dried grasses Field
grass and weeds dyed royal purple
hue, aud wheat assumes the regal attire Of
myrtle green velvet. la graceful luxurance hang
clusters OF lovely roses Of green OF thckcst satin.
Ihc branches OF IONA Et III HdNrts "
cover the OF boanet and droop in careless grace
low at back ils given that the rcign Of felt is
over for IA honabic wear. Safety its death but
although the coarse American felt may be- abandoned,
thr fine French fclt ia much too useful To be readily
yielded unless an excellent substitute can be found
Plush IL talked Of not proc. against tie storms
Winter The picturesque and becoming GainsDor0ugi
hat will lose none fashionable popularity. and not
wth,anlng the tender plea Of mercy for the birds the
In portaton Of the fcaherrd beauties is large
aud fashion like eliOgObdius, requires pcacocks, red
breasts, and kngfsEers to grace her dainty dishes
Quantities 81 little gray birds on both continents
ridced AMI dyed scarlet; there are, besides, the
tanagcr. the cardinal Bird delicate starllngs, and
tiny humm.ngbirds with gancing burushcd heads,
ana birds breasts o; opal hues tawny brown with dash
Of scarlet There beautifully arranged bards and
~ the bucycen, eNIuSltey shaoed feathers oi
the ophodore, of pcacocs eyes. specked Guinea fow
TONES are made entirely Of feathers pcacocks, the
hle opnoIorc, dovny feathers f,om the goose small
bgonzcd turkey breast tca'l, ~ ana Whatever Others mat
con be pres ,cd into inis most eccentric service boihet
trimmings are IN accord great deal OF ied VIII DC
used, aGd ic:9i0 or serpent green; charming IVORY
shade, lust family tinted ith pa green my;tIc or en-,
,ushy olive aud bronzed green There Is gold IN every
thing mixed WIN the ornaments IV' "ii'cr Iit'
gaqcng out in the shape OF cord, ana biaus ana ga
looms on costumes but it VIII not bc permanent shade
OF fashion for unless BE- OF very costy nart ~ lar
uisrs quickly and las besides STACEY theatrical Get
Stli IL helps to make up the changing show OF vanity
Fair" let glitter its ltle day lhe vivid contrasts
cream color and Cardinal red appear at the watering
places IN the pllnct>Se pOloati5e cosIiuli - .
waite the most popular color for dress. The skirt
may ~ silk gaze De chdEJry and the OVERSIGHT ana
iuicrmiugny of trimmings Of fresh otfish0ncd pax,
clear -kY blue, crean-color ana an SHADES OF rose ~
galc transparent lace brocadcd with basket work,
Open.wOfk designs and silk embroidery. Exquisite
evening dresses OF extremely Tim black ia0rcs are mate
bright with ribbons black upon side and crimson.
blue or rose on the other Words poorly describe
some OF the charming ball dresses seen lately ~ place
tashOn bic resort one OF tne most beautiful OF these
dresses OF hunCst Szc over pale amber SILK ANA
the ovcrskrt was made of pond lilies edged with glst
eung FURNISHED fringe Of meadow grass. Another line
costume was az rOsotlncd silk with quantities or misty
gIuzc Placed lcugthwsc the tdblier garlands
of dark foliage mt ruingcd with corn flowers and moss
buds the eardnds were trained to gracefully fal
with .olis OF the back drapCry n crean-colorcd
dauIask gauZc deliberately trimmed with cardinal