The Milan exchange. (Milan, Gibson County, Tenn.) 1874-1978, 1876-10-19

ar DeHtblng nlgh-Dred man, conscious
of himself and bent on exacting his due.
He came on, gazing to right and left,
lifting his right hand to his beardless
chin, and stroking it for composure,
and avoiding all acknowledgement of
the cheers with which the soldiers and
the Pashas greeted him. He rode on
all alone in the multitude which pressed
on his horses heels and followed him
to the mosque. Under the leadership
of cavass whom the Grand Vizier had
lent US, we presently fozeed our way
through the serried ranks of the sol
diery, crossed the never-ending village,
and went up to some tents which had
been reared on the hill, one tent being
! reserved for the diplomatic body, who
attended in plain clothes, and another
for other notabilities, native and for
eign. Under these tents and on several
hundred stands lining both sides of the
road were a multitude anxious to see
the procession as, issuing from the
mosque, it wended its way to Constan-
tinOple.
THE CEREMONY
and the accompanying prayer within
the mosque were of no long duration.
We had hardly taken our places under
our tent when some school children,
boys and girls, began to sing, the notes
of the ruthless music startling the
zaptiehs' horses and going throug Oh our
ears like knife. The foremost ranks
OF the Cayalcade then approached-frst
a squad of mounted zaptiehs, then a
company of blue Ulemas; later another
of gray Ulemas; then again a third
company of green Ulemas. First those
of the third, next those of the second
and last those of the first rank. Church
dignitaries were mixed with the Ulemas
at various intervals. Without any in
telligible plan or order came the
Pashas, high and low, some unnOticed,
others pointed out by the knowing men
among the crowd and hailed by the.
names of Ria Pasha, Khalil Pasha,
Karatheodori, Redif, Hidhat, Duevdet,
Salven, ETC., Ministers, Marshals, I'm
der-Secretaries, ETC., all riding two by
two, all or most of them well-mounted,
all conspicuous for much gold lace on
their coats, for the orders on their
breasts, and, above all, for the gorge
business and variety of the trappings
and capari5ons of their steeds. Won
derful to say the Ulemas had by far the
best horses and were the best riders.
Theirs were also the loftiest statures, the
noblest bearing, and the grandest cos
tunes. This was especially the case
with the green Ulemas, who wore long,
flowing robes with enormously large
sleeves and huge bands of cloth of gold
over their thick green turbans. OF the
Pashas, on the contrary, many were
small and mean-looking men, and their
seat on horseback seemed unsteady. In
Turkey, as in France or Italy, one
would say
ALL THE GIANTS ENLIST FOR THE
CHURCH,
leaving the mere pigmies to be drafted
into the army. Both of the churchmen
and of the military many were old, and
needed fOOtmen at both stirrups to guard
them against any untOward conse-
quences of their horses freaks. The
man, perhaps, who elected the greatest
outburst of the ladies' admiration, both
by his grand costume, all white, and by
his skillful hOrsemanship, was the Sheik-
ul-Islam, Hassan KairOullah Effendi.
A sguandron of mounted halberdiers, a
kind of bOdy-guard, preceded the Sui
tan, who had dofed his coat and rode
alone, his gold and jewelry glittering in
the sun, his hawk-like face still grave
and severe, but more composed than
when he first faced the crOwd-a face
unmOved, bust unbent by acknowl-
edgment of any mans salutation, ap-
parentlywith no speculation in his eyes,
with no PERCEPTION of the highest of his
subjects, or of the mightiest among the
European Powers, and no appreciation
of the bare faces, the elegant toilets, or
the beaming smiles which the European
ladies had got up to grace his progres.
There is
A POPULARITY IN THE sULTAN'S FACE
that seems to so reflect the humor of
the inner man as to make him look older
or younger, according to the mood that
sways him at different moments. A
friend of mine who was near him on
Thursday before last asserted that he
could hardly have reached the thirty
fourth year which he completed on
Tuesday.
After the Sultan came more halber-
diers, then other troops of all arms, and
Turkish ladies carriages, pressed all
round by the mob, which invaded all
space like an overwhelming tide. All
those people were following the Pa
dishah to Constantinople, where he had
still to visit the Mosque of Mahomet H.,
and the sepulchral monument of Abdul
MedUd, his father, before he was allow
ed to 90 home to Dolmabatsche. But
by this time it was past O'Clock, and
we were too dusty and hungry to trudge
along in the rear of the pageantry.
Perhaps it was owing to the stiffness of
the sovereign's demeanor that all en-
thusiasm in the heart of his subjects
was chilled; perhaps, utter apathy and
listlessness are characteristics of all de-
based races Bat it is fact that wher-
ever was l heard
NO GENERAL AND POPULAR APPLAUSE
greeting the Sultan on his appearance,
neither was there anywhere so dense a
crowd as | expected to see brought to-
gether out of the population of a vast
capital. This might partly be owing
TO the circumstance that the procession
had several miles of the town to ira
verse, and was probably awaited by the
multitude distributed at all points aloug
the line of march; but neither on the
banks of the BosphOrus nor in the
thoroughfares adjoining the bridges of
the Golden Horn did | perceive any
very extraordinary concourse of per-
sons, nor were there very many caiques
on the waters. What the people lacked
in genuine feeling, however, it made up
for in uncouth noise and un-
seemly behavior. Sum un all
that the worst purlieus of Naples or
Madrid, London or Dublin can muster,
and you will never make up such a rab-
BILE for rags and dirt, for pushing and
hustling and rude horseplay as the city
of the Sultan exhibits. The contrast
between the gold lace of the sovereign,
and of his priests and soldiers, and the
squalOr and wretchedness of so large
mass of the people is something ap-
palling, and one wonders whether it at
all struck the Sultan as the most glar
ing fact facing him in his triumphal
march, and whether he even dreamt
that 1t in any manner concerned him to