The Bolivar bulletin. [volume] (Bolivar, Hardeman County, Tenn.) 1865-1888, 1876-08-03
Secrets of the Latest Fashions.
woNEN's CLOTHES yADE TO FIT CLOSER
THAN MEMS.
Scribner's Monthly.


A Partisan lady is net said to bt
! dressed nowadays, nor does she even Or
! der dress to be made for her She asks
! her dressmaker to mould a dress Upor
her, and, when this is done, she calls it a
/ n10uLe.
To be moulded, you must begin by
! adopting every article of your under
! clothing to the shape and size prescribed
| by fashion. Therein lies the only secre
| of perfection in dress which the Pari
| SielHe pOSs sesses over other women. Next
! to the PGriSienHe it is the American
woman who is c0usid cred to be "the
! best dres sed.' She has one fault, how
eVer-she Is not always .jupOnne accord
ing to the requirements of her toilet
AS rule, each dress should have its
| separate set of skirts, to be worn exciu-
siveIy with it, and this should be sup
piled by the dressmaker herself, as it
should always be almost of the same
| length and width as the skirt Of the
dress, and always Of the sIme shape.
Now TWO Under5kirts, at the utmost, are
worn. The one which accompanies the
dress, and which Is of white muslin, is
trimmed with lace insertions and edg-
ings. No fcunces ara worn on under
skirts. They ara too bulky for the pres
ent style of dress.
The skirt to be worn under this muslin
skirt is of white foullrd, which material
clings better than any osher to the figure.
And the skirt (which is gored, so as not
to form a single plait) is stitched to the
edge of the corset in order to leave the
figure perfectly untrammeled by band or
belt, however thin. The skirt is also
trimmed with lace insertion and edgings
The corset is very Iong-a la Jeanne d
Arc- As a guide, it should be of the
length of the dress cuirasse, which cuir
rasse, by the by, is now only simulated
by trimming on the dress. This, again,
is to avoid giving extra size to the figure
Some dispense with the second skirt of
white silk; they wear an undergarment
of white silk under the corset, which
garment they trim with lace, as if It
were a skirt. 1t is made as long as an
ordinary skirt, and it takes the plIce of
one. In realty, therefore, no skirts are
worn by the most strict.
To recapituate, fashionable lady 5
toilet now consists of a white silk bodice
inlaid with Valenciennes, which white
silk bodice Is continued into a skirt,
which is also richly trimmed with lace
| Insertions and edging. This garment an
| swers two purposes and is called by two
| names. Then comes the long cuirasso
| corset of white or pink satin, wiich i'm
proves the entire figure. An extra white
| foulard skirt may be stitched to the edge
| of the corset, but this is not necessary.
! 1t should, however be worn under cos
| tunes not provided with a special under
| skirt of their own. The dress itself OF
whatever material it may be, is Of the Prin-
! cess shape-4hat is, IN one piece from
neck to hem of skirt.
The trimming on the dress Stimulates
! Guirasse and even tunic; but separate
| cUirasses or TUNES are quite laid aside,
as being too bulky, and hiding the out
lines Of the figure too much 1t thus
follows that nothing is worn under a
dress body excepting the under corset.
| Bad, indeed must be TIE figure that does
! not look moulded under this system OF
underclothing. You may year a cotton
dress of five dollars, if you will, but un-
der this must be worn the finest foulards
and the richest lace.
Nor is it the dressmaker who can
make the figure. This depends entirely
on the corset manufacturer There
is even a talk of having dress cui
rasses made by corset-makers. aud the
skirts would then bs fastened to the cOrs
set, which would at the same time form
the body of the dress.