The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-09-12
A TRAvELL1xo PRINCES DIARK

studies shows manv a side OF human affairs
IN light which can hardly be ever obtained IN
the Old World. A society without traditions,
without distinction OF classes, and tased en-
trely upon money bosis, lie, in itself, phe-
nomenon worth the study -of every thinking
man.
American nature IL by no means attrac' i've,
certainly not picturesque but IL is verv Inter-
estinQ On our way here we passed the Niagara
Falls aud the great lakes, all OF which are well
worth seeing. We have no idea in Europe OF
the wild grandeur Of these Falls, or the ma1ni-
tude OF such expanses Of water Lake
Michigan, for instance. But while the Niagara
Falls are ncomparablv more impressive than
any Of our European waterfalls, the American
lakes have not n particle OF the endless attrac-
tons OF every one OF our lakes, from that OF
Geneva and Of Lago Magriore to the little
sheets Of water OF ENGLAND or Scotland. This is
not country where man should look for the
pretty and beautiful or the picturesque 1t Is
the country of tho big and the wondrous only.
The character OF the people changes with al.
most every mile advance west. The dull
faces Of the British Dominion have disappeared;
so have also the Intelligent physiognomes Of the
Dostonians. Features grow coarser and man.
ners more vulgar. A man will tahe OF hts boots
aud exhibit his dirty socks as the most natural
thing In the world. young couple Of lovers
or OF newly married people will publicly indulge
IN kissing and caressing each other. ne " they
were at home. Most OF the men have TASKS OF
whiskey at their mouths and n ball Of tobacco
bohind their cheeks. Though there Is a restau-
rant on board the train. the majority OF the wo-
men. especially those with children, bring their
baskets Of provisions with them, eat at all times
OF he day, and spread throughout the car
mixed atmosphere 81 poor pantry and a not
clpuu The ndmtrabe paloca
Ia Transformed into a low bazaar. Every mo-
ment AN impudent looking chap comes to sell
something candies, cigars, fruits, books, news
papers. You cannot get a minutes rest
without somebody bothehng you with some
sort Of proposal or with attempts TO start n con-
versatlon. They must have seen that we did
not understand their tongue, yet they would
not Sive up talking to us, every new interlocutor
evidently assuming that his English must be Of
more intelliIi0le Kind than that OF his prede-
cessor. A party OF men playing cards have
made several attempts to make US join them. 1
have n strong suspicion that they were profess
slonal ramhlers.
A Journey OF eighteen OF twenty hours under
such circumstances would have been unoear-
able, had IL not been for the novelty Of the
| thing. True that the railroads are rrivate, not
| Government concerns here; still am sur
| prlsed that measure is taken to protect the
| passengers, at least from gamblers and peddlers,
II not from takers.
APRIL 25.-we took up our quarters at the
Palmer House, the largest hotel 1 have ever
been at In my life. II is perfect marvel In its
way, so far as the building aud the general APP
| pointrnents are concerned. The management
and the cuisine are, Of course. coarse and poor,
as IN all hotels 10 this country; but the sttuc-
turs itself and the furniture and ntting out Of IL
| are superb. Whatever money, knowledge. snd
intelligence will procure, the American will
get hut the moment taste comes into play he
Is loet. He will get up an Aihambra any day you
like, and then put demiiohn OF whiskey aud a
| spittoon right in the middle Of the main hall Of
| It,
| As far as sightseeing goes, Chicago lie not
very rich. II ia large city, very handsomely
laid out, with number Of magnificent build
| ings, and that Ia all. Artistic and intellectual
consider ,tions have evidently never entered
into the heads OF the citizens OF this city. They
are all poTk-packers, grain shippers, whiskey
and beer merchants, and the like and a. long
as they can make money they don't care a straw
| about anybody or anything. The city was burned
out. and within a year they have built new
one, more handsome than ANYTHING n traveller
could possibly expect TO meet IN this nart OF tie
wOili. All that has ever been said in Europe ~
tire feverish activity and enterprise Of the
Americans does not begin to approach the
truth. But all THIS marvellous ACTIVITY does not
seem to contribute much to the spread either
OF morality or Of culture. Money has uecome
the heart. the soul the mind aud the brains OF
the population.
The result Of such a condition Of affair ia
natural. By tue side 81 a marble palace you see
a wood n shanty occupied by a cigar or rum
| shor, 10 the back room u which scenes are said
| TO take place to frighten the Imagination Of the
| worst criminal Of y. rs or London. Yesterday
we went TO matinee at the MINISTRIES. At the
close OF the performance an elegant fancy car
riagc, two beautiful gray horses, aud negro
groom dressed In handsome livery drove to
the door. The crowd coming out made room
for somebody TO pass, and large mass OF look
ers on assembled outside. We stood still for a
| moment. and saw three ladies making for the
carriage. They were dressed In velvet and silks,
with laces and jewclry all over. The eldest OF
them took the reins, and the party drove OF.
amid the evident adnii alton OF the crowd. On
our inquirine who the ladies' were. we learned
that the party consisted OF the mistress OF a dis
| orderly house and two Of her associates.
The more see Of this intensely materialized
New World the more deeply learn to love the
Old with Its populations always ready to sacri-
nee their lives for something much more NOZZLE
than the dollaT-for an idea, for belief. for a
tradition. They feel and think IN Europe here
they reckon.
We made highly interesting acquaintance In
the person Of Father de u. Of the College OF ST.
Ienauus. He knows America thoroughly, and
gave us insight into things We would never have
noticed otherwise From what he told US Of the
condition OF tho political parties. and Of the
constantly growing antaconism between East.
ern, Western, and Southern States. 1t is olcar
that the Union " III luVe ultimately To hp ,rn an