The New York herald., 1876-12-11
How the Bellies Of Paris Are Attired
for the Winter.
DRESSING AS AN ART.
The Latest Novelties in Coors Shapes
and Textures.
FANS WITH HISTORIC DEVICES.


captvatngly alfred as at present, appeared
so fascinating and totally Irresistible They believe
IT, and the consequence Is that the length OF ordi-
nary waist has grown down at the back to three
inches above the last spinal vcrtebrg. Extraordinary
waists are heightened beyond this point by whale.
bone spinal system, which ariculatcs anatomicaily,
and is found TO be only little nconvcnient when tho
wearer has TO sit down Generally speaking, however.
the present style OF Dress when not outre is both ec
CANT and becoming. AS II is useless 10 morazc on
the tyranny OF fashion, II is US welo conclude that II
ourreau bodies and te-back skirts disclose ali the
defects OF certain angular shapes they have al
least ono merit that OF revealing proportonatc mar
rowncss OF mind in the On the other hand II
stout figures owe all their plastic perfection TO tho
process OF tight lacing, is sufficiently painful and pro-
judicial IN itself TO disarm the critic who after all, Is
human and minglos vast amount Of admiration with
his pity 1t Is difficult to be when materials are
selected with such artistic disccnment the matter
Of combinations and color
weolen. .dcmi toilet suits, mixed with plaitings Of
silk, evidently tho useful, whether marine
blue, bronze olive. SEAL scablous myrtle shades
They rendered moro dressy by being ornamented
with plastrons the bodice and the sleeves
These plastrons OF rich cardinal gros grain and
they covered with chenille work, silver cord
plain braldng Of tho color OF the Although
THE PoLoSAIsR RoDR,
made as long a. the undcrskirt is still much in
favor that II is almost uniform, yet dress in three
picces-jacket, te-back tunic and skrt-ands nu-
adhercnts Tho fact Is, that In spite OF all now
inventions poonascs cannot bo made sknlkc enough,
and thcso who maintain old-fashoned regard for
under pcttcoats must either adopt toilet in thres
parts or get adversely top nstep
whic they provoked to Gnd that all the drapery
they want their bodies trails far behind on the
pretty matte damasse birds eye and diaper woollenA
None of the rich Lyons tissues are made up for CON-
fort the armures ribbed standrp silk cloth, the vel.
vets and brocaels used for combinations Of three
apd even four different materials Of the shade.
The trains made Of colsonne brocadc stout gros
gram the bodices and trimmings embossed velvet,
the bands satin and the platngs either gauze or
crepe lisse, but the shade must be preserved
throughout
Tho flowers marked embroidery selected for these
rich dnncr dresses mark tho contrast Of SO many
different tissues by coming between. great fca-
evening dress bodces is that the lower edge Of
basques Is never trimmed, but hides all round
either scarf drapercs or gariands OF foliage, which,
after encrcng the hgure fall IN lull trails down The
tram. Another novelty in evening toilet is SIM
plicity. winch does not imply that ladies' wear PLAIN
muslin bu. that they affect TO put nothing but
white Yuus lhe newest dresses arc white barege
white organdie and Vaenc ennes trimmed with fringe
and b ows on long satin ladders called y grimpcr ETY.
The simplicity Of white Is rendered all the more won
derul by beng embroidered al over with silver cord.
White cashmere rs marked In like manner with Jossa-
nlne and J0uqut au passc, or vita chenille vine
leaves, velvet balls, French knots and other deslgns
THE GREAT SUCCESS OF THE DAP
Is the vestac robe in honor o the new piece 'Romc
vaincu." No will be without vcstac ut The
coming fefes. IL Is only Jewess ovcrdress fastened
on one shoulder 10 the lett, and under TO the
right II requires bodice to be warn undcrncah and
adopted for afternoon or evening wear. The over
be oil china crepe embroidered all round the
skt with bands OF floss roses done by hand or y can
be brocaei or even PLAIN popiin, ornamcnted win
The prettcst mixtures Tor silk velvet. for cash
mere and ialle for millinery &c., are bronze and bis
cult myrtle and blondin marine and cardinals ,prnns
and ciel olive and pstache cicl and nacre, marron
and linden or tIleul The latter perfect furorc.
A linden plush lat trimmed with a wreath OF olive
foliage, or gray felt hat trimmed with seal velvet q
marine bre pointed shape trimmed win steel ana
A smai! cushion OF palc PINK plush Is worn on one
side Of the head II suggests that turbans might thus
be gradually introduced
Lemon blue and mauve or peach colored plush u
used for bows, nchus, &c Alnos, Incredible is the
quantity oil iur employed for hands and cloak Innings
Some OF the limitations perfect but others plainly
show why rabbit Is always Dhc nbnu oil Paris rcsiau
rants. Round muis and boaSrcmind us OF the prihti
OF the last century, but the fashions OF only hundrcs
years ago modern " compared 10 the mcdiayn
purses. pouches retcues, pockets and chatelainei
marked with designs copied IRON parchment scrolls
and the margins of inssals Feathers and piunes are
languishlng attitudes; they droop down the
bnck IRON behind the lett ear tips only cur for
ward briskiy. Pocket handkerch els are worked with
colorcd sxs and represent Knights IN armor or sccnes
from Cervantcs and Shakespeare. Figures are also
worked the corner OF linen Tor cuffs aud collars
Maniles are either circulars lined with lar or
Lose, LOOKING rALErors
Some the latter made OF very thick cloth, dark
biscuit almond color both checked or striped, and
fastened with large pearl buttons Tho make is
tight habit bodice
Vienna cloth la used for driving garments and the
buttons are Of the same color Never by tho way,
were buttons prousely used as since dresses nave
been without any button hcIcs. They are sewn
on by rows OF three at a time. A dross that comes
home with only iorty eight buttons IS not expected 70
be Il success; the proper number rs sxty-nvc
a salons have rcopened, but dinners inaugurate
the commencement Of a Parts season Notes OF invi-
iation sent on eh coored paper, and as nothing
can be in good without medieval "reminiscences
every one mas adopted motto In tho corner. The
Queen OF Spain has swallow, with the words pour
chcrcher mieu1'' I'm search OF something bcttcrl The
old Marquis dc Ds*~ who Is gray and has plenty
OF gr andchidren, has chosen the endve plant, with
under my tcsu very aristocratic beauty who will
nothing to do with this Republic has on all hci
c,ssores 'ceug qt ,yen dams es hduers souf sofi
tatges' tlhey who live the heights are solitary
The nsurc around which these words ore engraved
tree n mountain top. charming motto IN lta!ial
ior mourning IS .'Piango n.o,te MIA vita" Il
mourn hls death and that must lve) perfect Don
Juan his way has, ''Da pdrdore Pdrdire'' which
i'm that the person bold because hts feelings
ardcn coquetc explains tho yariablcness OF hcr ways
by adopting weahercock IN tho centre o. iour wn9s
and tho words, IL do not alter, but am altered by
these" signify that all changes are suggested BY
manly instigslion, the winds being Of the masculine
gender.
There many other such Devices but fans are the
most speaking adics graceful weapons II Is proposed
that the glorious tho iamily annals Of the
nobesse shall recorded by the painters brush ON
this indispensable article Inus any wariike OF praise
worthy deed accomplished by ancestors Is 10 be de-
pctcd the light Valuable fans In the pos
OF persons whose ancestors have not thus dis
tipguished themselves will represent some national
event worthy OF commemoraticn some beSutiul re-
production from the wcarers fayoritc author The
Duchess OF Medina C1l has ordered u series Of fans
10 be painted in honor OF Ccrvantcs, and the first
shows Don Quxote being shaved W ladics Tho
ground is cardiual red, the ngures pac blue Another
article CT dress be prousey illustrated with nccdls-
work sthe Rmini satcheh third novelty y she
LADIES' lantern II is made oil enamel metal and
stands BY no side OF every chatclanes workbasket
The lair gdUbout their rooms with antorn In hand,
projecting blnc, rcd or golden ray before them. Is
looks weird and strange and reminds Of the days
when no sucn thing gas was Invented.
To fioral department. roses and mahonia fruit,
vine leaves made Of plush and velvct tho chief
attractions. Mahonia Is OF damson Color and is
10 xcs vel with clarct or with yellow brown. The