The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-05-07
AN EXCURSION IN BOSNIA.
The actual state of things in the insurr,

tionary provinces OF Turkey Is not easily dis
cerned through the reports which emanate from
Servian sources. More trustworthy evidence has
been supplied by a French traveller, VI. Charles
Yriarte, who has succeeded at some personal
risk in penetrating the interior Of Bosnia.
The tourists first attempt TO pass the frontier
was summary repealed, although his passport
bore the seal OF an ottoman legation, duly rtSc
by tho nearest Turkish Consul. This occurred
at KostaYncza. where a bridge spanning the
Unna gives access 70 Mohammedan town Of
the same name. Notwithstanding the remon-
strances Of Austrian officials, NJ. Yrlarte crossed
this bridge, and followed the long. struggling
street constituting the Turkish city as far as a
kdrdulo or guard house, which he found tenant
ed by a squad of Albanans, and adorned with
the heads OF rebels. At this point he was turned
back by the soldiers, whose gestures were 80
violent and hostile, and we're so 1etcely second
ed by the threats and cries Of the whole popuia-
ton, which had turned out to see the qidour,
that retreat to Austrian soil became advisable.
The brief glimpse Of kostaInicza, however, had
established two things: That the quarter nhabit-
ed by Cbristsus was totally abandoned, and
that tho number OF Moslems, exclusive OF tho
garrison, uss ludicrously disproportioned TO the
size OF the town. 1t was likewise noteworthy
that In these twin cities. sundered only by mar
row river, the distinctive features OF Austrian
and Turkish architecture are rather emphasized
than softened.
From KostaYnic2a our traveller rode to Kortal,
whence he hoped to cross by ferry to Novi, the
terminus OF Turkish railway. His route lay
along the Austrian bank OF the Unna, and at one
point was blocked by a great company OF fugi-
tives, loaded with household stun and driving
before them athousand cattle. These emigrants,
m be
able to bear arms, but were fcr the most pert
women and children who had managed TO ford
the river during the night eludng tho bdche.b0u-
zOuhs or Turkish mounted patrols. IL appeared
that migrations equally considerable REQUIRED
almost every week, and were Driylv encouraged
and respected by the uhans, as well MS by Aus
trian subjects, generally Of the savonic race.
Under these circumstances, the habitual sus.
picion and autipathy n the Mobammedan from
tersman have been intensely aggravated, and
NJ. Yriarte was assured that his plan of visiting
DaJnaluka, the capital Of this part Of Bosnia,
was utterly impracticable Nevertheless, by dint
OF perseverance, and through the kind offices OF
a German employee Of the railway, he found
himself at last In a compartment, with two
1erce-looking beys and panic-siricken Greek
priest, fairly started on his Bosnian journey. AL
though the road Is but sixty miles long, Is well
built, and equipped with lrst-rate rolling stock,
there Is only train each way 10 two days, ana
the rate of speed is hardly worthy OF a tramway.
The weeks gross receipts at the terminal station
on this lucrative line now average less than So
and in the best OF times do not exceed SO.
The station u BaJnaluk is at some distance
from the city, and our French tourist was
escorted to the Christian suburb by the whole
body OF railway functlonares, most OF whom
were Germans. Batteries OF artillery aud an
shattered in the outskirts of the town. In
normal times DaJnaluka, with its dependencies,
has population OF 1fty thousand ei-ht-tenths
being Christian; but SO complete had been the
stampede Of rayahs belonging to the Greek rite
that at this moment the Turks formed ma
ioriiy. The small colony Of foreign employees
lodges within the railway station. and after sun
set Is not permitted to communicate with the
town. The few Slaves, chiefly Roman Catholics
who have not yet migrated. rem ain shut up Ia
their houses, hesitattng between the risk Of
massacre and the dread of seeing their property
burne !, an event very likely to follow their de-
pafturc. The Christian q ilrier Of B1jnaiuka is
built after Fren IA models aud cont aims some
houses OF dee INT appearance, now abandoned
or guarded 10y Il few servants, who contrive to
exist ON a few kernels Of corn, and never show
themselves day or night.
man cemetery divides this saOIro from the
Turkish city. At the entrance Of the lat er Is
vast zaar, having a m lsque IN the centre, and
rows Of shops r4dlatns from 1t ike the sJokes
~ a waeel In this plaza there was plenty Of
movement but n;tle business, many Of tie
booths and stalls being closed. With the ex-
ceptlon Of the bazaar, waere the buildings
were closely packed, tho whole Ottoman
quarter appeared to consist OF streets bor-
dered by hiLh-feucel gardens, at whosJ ex-
tremi.ies the dwellings ale scarcely VISIBLE,
sAtouded as they are In dease foliage. NJ. Yr.-
arte seems to have been the FIRST CHRISTIAN who
had penetrated the Turkish town In many
months. The Catholic ray abs, although less de-
tested than those Of the Greek fash, peyer ven
tured beyond their own faubourg, and even the
Austrian Consul, the sole representative Of for
eign powers at Bajnsuka. was attended by an
armed guard on his rare ofici4l visits to the Mos
lem quarter. Every night the remnant OF the
Slave population expected massacre, and kept
'ts eyes fixed upon the consulate. From time to
time cert in Turks, bound 10y friendly relations
to Christian families, would apprse the Consul
II plots lid against the rayahs. Owing to the
alaht Of the whole flrming populition. includ-
ing many wealthy proprietor who mad EN-
7 ployed thous nj ldboIers on his estates, the
crops are a total loss. The Mosem hey d ures
not 4eizc the standing grain when the ortno fox
rlyah has committed no other crime than that
/ OF leaving tne country. vt neither the C4thl-
/ Hes who have remained at home, nor the emis-
sares tempted from ;he Austrian frontier b a
commission Of lfty per cent, csn muster coIr.
age to act as agents for the fI-tiyes. M.an-
while the destruction Of rayah houses aud public
buildings is incess AIT. The night before the ar
! rival Of the French tOutst "a baud OF Aussulm an
fanatics mad entered the Clri4tian SUBURB, and
! plAng up fAsots within the pnncipI church
| burned It ~ the ground.
Upon the whole, from this account OF an eve
witness, We are led to conclude that while The
! victories OF the insurgents ma owe a good deal
TO the SerNian i'm glnatlou, the per-er',ions and
sunerlngs vi the rayah have been little exag-
| seratyd.
INSTRUCTING 4 JJDGE.