The Wheeling daily register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1864-1878, 1876-09-07
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
Early Autumn wraps-HOw they
are Made and What they are Made

are Made and What they are Maoe
or
Harper's Bazaar.
A wrap of some warm material is
usually the first garment purchased when
cool autumn days arrive. Large impor-
tstions of these show the fashionable
shapes to be enlarged editions of all the
styles in vogue last year, VIZ: Large man.
tells, long sacques, large Dolmans and
long cloaks of both sacque and circular
shape. The size of these garments gives
an air OF comfort and warmth, and their
simple trimming, usually mere border,
is in keeping with their plain and grace
full style. Heavier materials are used
than the cashmere and drap d'ete that OF
late have done service all winter, and
these heavy goods are otter wadded, and
are always lined with silk or with
farmers satin. The soft pliableness of
lighter wooden fabrics is given luxurious
camePs hair cloths that are one
fourth of an inch thick, to diagonal stutis,
regular beaver cloth, and to the figured
basket, canvas and armure cloths. A
great many rich black silk wraps are
shown, but very few velvet garments are
imported. 1t is said that inc cloth cloaks
are to be the first choice next winter, and
will become fashionable for dressy wear
again. lust M last season fine wooden stutfs
were restored TO favor for rich costumes.
LONG cLoAKs.
The long cloaks sent over by Partisan
houses that are especially famous for
their handsome wraps are shaped like
sacaues. They tit the shoulders smooth.
ly, and from thence slope outward with
the outlines of the figure, lying smoothly
on the dress, without any fullness being
added to the seams other than that which
comes of gradually widening each part
toward the bottom. They are long
enough to reach to the knee, or halfway
below it, and in some instances cover the
dress entirely. Their shspeliness will be
much interferred with by boutfant over
skirts and bustles, though they will look
dowdy if they are not slightly held out
behind. Their shoulder seams are very
short, and the coat sleeves are set IN just
rs they are in gentleman's coats. The
black has sometimes three seams, giving
side body, while others are the regular
French back, with only one seam behind
and one under each arm. The middle
seam of the back is usually left open for
about three-eighths of yard from the
bottom. If there are three seams behind,
lapels are set on the two seams OF the
side forms just above the border OF the
cloak. The front slopes in with the figure
easily, but is usually cut without dart.
There are many double-breasted fronts
fastened all the way from top to toe,
while others lap comfortably, yet are fas-
tened only at the throat, or perhaps from
the waist upward. There Is no great
display of blttons ard button holes even
on double-breasted garments, rs n.y.
fronts with concealed buttons are very
much used. The sleeves are ample coat
shape, large enough to slip of and on
easily. The cuffs are usually made by
the trimming. Collars are bands, stand
ling in rounded and IN English shape, or
are turned down in Byron fashion, or
else the neck is finished with n band of
fur, or, it may be, regular boa. Pockets
are on all the wraps, and, though large,
they are evidently made for ornament,
not use, as they are often only flaps sewed
on across the top as if to prevent any
thing being put in them and dragging
them out OF shape. These pockets are
placed very low down, sometimes IN
front, sometimes on the sides, and quite
as often behind, and are of almost any
shape the fancy can sug sest-square,
triangular, hexsgonal, or else they are
parallelogralns, representing portfolios
with flags at the top. A long ,looped
bow of ribbon is on each pocket, and
sometimes buttons are added; similar
bow is at the throat, with long ends hang
ing. Such bows are also set at The ends
of the long side seams, sometimes IN the
midst of u border Of fur or feathers.
Imagine such u garment made of soft
thick camel's-hair cloth, gray or brown,
warmly wadded and lined with silk, with
merely stitching on the edges, or else
many rows of braid or OF wide galloon.
Sometimes the back forms are made Of
mole.skin velvet OF the same shade, and
the pockets, cuffs, collar and border are
also of velvet. Other cloaks are of the
blsck.hgured cloths edged with fur, either
LYNX, black marten, or gray fox. Black
cioaks and the ink-blue shades are most
largely imported in the figured cloths
with braid trimmings.
The dressy cloaks are of black Antwerp
or cathedral silk, made in the shapes just
described. and warmly wadded. The
braiding on these cloaks is exceedingly
handsome. Some set figures OF braiding
extending down each form from top to
bottom, making three pyramidal figures
behind, two in front, and one up each
sleeve. Others have row upon row OF
the soutache braid placed so near that
the edges touch, and give the effect OF
wide GALLON. The majority however,
are simply bordered with fur or with
feathers.
THE NEW LONG DOLMANs.
The new Dolmans are what are called
three-quarters long, and are ample
enough to reach halfway down the skirts
of ladies OF average height. They are