New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1876-11-11
VENICE IN AUTUMN.

THE CITY AT EvENTIDE-A TIME-HONOEED COFFEE
HOUsE-POPULAR DIsCONTENT-yIST OF THE
BOY PRINCE OF NAPLES TO A BRITISH STEAMER
POPULARITY or THE PRINCESS MAEGARET-
THE HARBOR IL DANGER.
IRON 4 REGULAR CORRESPONDENT o TIE TRIBUNE.
VENICE, oct. j.-Venicc the "Rcvcl of the earth
the mask Of Itayw as Byron has called it, has
even yet, amid its fallen fortunes, some appearance
of deserving such a description. Especially it has
such at this of the year. when the auricrons
stream of foreign travellers is setting steadily south
ward and whcn rs is now the case the Autumn is
coming in all its glory of brilliant and yet not OPP
prcssye sunshine and moonlight nights of n quality
that seems a speciality of Venice. Nothing pleas
antcr, nothing gaycr-gay without noise tumult,
and bright without clarc-than our magnificent
driwng-room, the great Piazza of st. Mark, where
all classes meet without throngng or impeding eacl
other; where the more ariStOcratcally inclined sip
their ices at the tme-honOrcd Cafe Floran on the
right hand side of the Piazza looking toward 81.
Mark, the dcmocratically minded quaff thci
Vienna beer at the Cafe Quadri, the opposite side;
and the popoani bargain with the ncrant sellers of
lemonade under the shadow of the matchlcSs front
of st. Mark take their ease stretched at length
on the many-ccorcd marbles of its steps and por-
ticocs! And gradually, as the night yccrs toward
the small hours, the throng becomes thinner; calm
silence pushes it's domain more closely around the
still remaining groups of stcrs reluctant TO aban-
don scene so fair; the great bell on the cocktower
appears 10 sound its warnings more loudly and more
imperatyely, AZ the giant bronze figures which
stand either side Of It beat out the quarters with
their hammcr-wlelding arms, which rise and
fall with the ineXorabc impassiyity of fate;
the pale cool moon sails screncly in the
cloudlcss sky overhead and at last the
vast space of the Piazza-unquestionably
by far the finest city space in the whole worlds
left to Few sleepy walters at Fioran's and to me J!
For "Fl,ran,7 YOU must know. never sleeps Like
the marble steps, Tapped by the gentle tides of the
Adriatic, the incarnation of Venetian life known
under that secular name, has its hours of cbb and
flow, but never any OF perfect rest. When first
knew Venice, some siX-and-thiry years ago, was
told that Foran's had never been coscd-ncyer for
50 much rs a minute, night or day-for more thana
hundred years. II is probable that there is other
establishment of any sort in all the world of which
that could be SAID. OF course " Floran,' the
ycritablc original il but m0pi pomiuis umbrd'
The immortal Cqf'trc sleeps with the dogcs. All
Mocha and the western isles ought 10 have sub
scrbcd to place a colossal coilce-pot to hi, memory!
i have seen many a less elegant m0numrnt) But
am not aware that any memorial marks hi, resting
place. Peace To his grounds!
Ihayc called "Floran's' an incarnation Venetian
life: and should like To occupy this letter with IL
u,rliious of the fact that II Is such. But "a, tine
French student. ambitions of attaining an English
co.loqual -tylc. said, must fry some more fish"
having other natter, of which wish to speak to
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