The Portland daily press., 1876-03-31
(FrOm Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING BoNNETS.


Openings at the fashionable millinery es-
Establishments decide the fashions in spring bon
nets, Cream-colored chip bonnets prevail, but
the partially for dressy black bonuets will rot
permit black chip and black lace bonnets 10 be
given up The shapes ars of medium size and
graceful outline, with large crowns, close ears,
and high fronts, made by slightly rolling
brim. Some have chip crowns with silk fronts,
while others have chip brims with crowns of
Brussels net or of silk; there are also dark-col-
ored brims with white crowns. The bonuets
are all worn quite far back on the head, and
have an ample trimming, though this is so SIM
ply arranged that it is again possible for ladies
to do some of their millinery at home
The trimmings are folds, large careless knots,
and bows made of soft bias silk; either gros
grain or the satin d. Antique is used by the best
milliners This bias silk surrounds the crown
in easy iolds-not twisted nor in set pleats-
but as carelessly as if placed there hurriedIy,or
else it trims only the top, left side, and back,
while flowers ora demi-long ostricn plume curl
over the right side. 1t is most stylish to have
no silk pendent loops behind, but to have dra-
perry of cream-colored lace or else flowers. This
lace is used in profusiop, excelled only by the
abundant lavishness with which flowers are
placed sometimes in wreath all around the
crown, sometimes 10 touffes on the crown, and
again in trail behind, The scarfs of lace de-
scribed in previous numbers are knotted in two
loops with two uneven ends, and attached be-
low the crown or upon it. The bIim of the
bonnet is faced both outside and in with the
trimming silk laid on in a bias fold and edged
with two or three small piping folds. The fold
outside the brim is about an inch wide, and
must be only smooth fiat band put on with
blind stitches. The face trimming consists of
large loose knot of silk filling the inside just
above the forehead, with loose soft bands at
the side, and sometimes cluster OF flowers or
a little ecru lace.
PARAsoLs.
Nav parasols have quaint-looking pointed
tops, and are called steeple tops, pagodas, or
canopy tops. This is an od-time shape re-
vived, and it is completed by being fastened by
ring suspended from cord. to which rib
bon bow is attached, which serves as an orna-
ment when the parasol is opened. The parasol
for general use is of black twiled silk or of
gros grain lined with white or with black,
pinked in deep scallops around the edge, and
ruffied with black thread lace. The handles
are plain smooth sticks of ebony, mounted or
inlaid with old silver, tortoise shell inlaid with
pearl, or else yellow ivory worked with gold Oh
with silver. The whole parasol is in ncie taste
differing from the gaaudy silks and club sticks
lately used. The prices range from $4.75 up tC
$14. The sizes chosen for dressy street veal
measure from sixteen to twenty inches down
the gore Later in the season they will be
worn trimmed with ecru lace.
KID GLOVES.
Spring importations of kid gloves repre-
sent extreme shades of color, showing
very light tints for dressy wear, aad the
darkest shades for general occasions. Brown
is the foundation of the largest part of the i'm
portations, beginning with seal brown-now
shown for the first time in xii gloves-througt
the yellowish Centennial brown up to ecru
and cream shades. Among the stylish colors
for dark gloves that will be chosen to mattel
the darkest hue of costumes are the ink shades
some of which have blue cast, others are pnr
pie, and others are iron gray; these are ever
darker than the invisible shades of last season
Nut shades are also seen in variety, aud ar
labeled walnut, chestnut, filbert, etc. For semi
dress are soft neutral tints, peculiar shades o
drab with pink tinges tolu, pntty.color
and various wood tlnts. For visiting ant
carriage toilettes the cream shades pred0mi
nate, as they can be be worn with costumes o
any color. Among other light hues are pail
grays with blue tinges; the green-grays ar.
pdSSe The best gloves are without ornameu
tai stitching, are welted with white around thu
wrists, and are SO long wristed that they re
quire three or four buttons TO fasteu them
Undressed kid gloves are the frat choice will
fashionable women for general wear, and whit,
undresSed kid is now chosen, not alone TO
street and carriage wear, but for receptions
dinners, and other ful-dress occasions. For
merly only two or three shades were found il
these exquisite gloves, but they now show
variety of colors, viz, stoue buff, gray, laven
der, brown, drab, wood, white aud black Sea
brown undressed kid gloves will be especial,
elegant with travelling costumes during thu
spring and summer. The popular length il
that fastened by three or by four buttons
those with three buttons are So; with four but
tons, $780,
NECK-TIEs AND BOWS.
Cream color is the favorite shade for neck
ties and cravat bows, and appears in crep
lisse, in baptiste, Brussels net, and cashmer
lace. The neatest baptiste ties are of pal
cream color, with fine hem stitching dom
In each pointed end; $15O is the price
Others of the baptste. with squares o
points of cashmere lace set in, are So 80
Pure white baptiste or organdy ties are ais
hem stitched; price $1.25 For misses an,
quite young girls are initiated ties of whit
muslin, finished on the edges with needl
worked scallops, and ornamented with tie
initial of the young demoiselle's name nea.l
wrought: price $1.25. Cravat bows of cream
colored lace, with loops of cardinal red, b ne
scarlet, rose or cream white China Grape ART
500. Squares or crescents OF Malnes lace ar
the novelty for finishing the ends of fine China
Grape ties, Such ties cost So or $3.50 Tin,
white organdy bows with hem-Stitched ends ar
sold for IS cents, and make an exceedingly
neat finish for the necks of plain dresses tina
have standing collars of the dress materia
and are worn with linen collars.
Irish point and arabesque laces are strong
serviceable, and snowy, and are being mucl
used for trimmings both of under clothing an,
of outside dresses. They cost from 81 30 t
$4,25 yard.
Linen collars are of the English shape, mad,
so high that ladies who follow this fashion il
the extreme can not turn their heads witkou
turning their bodies also. Hem-stitched col
lars of this kind are $1.25 each. Plain liner
collars are from So % to SO dozen.