The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-07-16
SOME NEW hooks.
In the cnvea city Of south America.

hees of medimval life and manners which sur
i've In the by.ways " Europe II Is surprising,
therefore, That our tourists should overlook
torncr Of this continent where the customs,
costumes, and even idioms OF tho sixteenth
sentury arc preserved with curious fidelity, aud
where the street scenes and varied incidents OF
fatty life are many tdble1ur rirdns copied
rom the pages OF "Don Quixote" and "Gil
Bas." In this respect Peru X even more inter-
sstug than the mother country, whloh con-
nlves In tardv, awkward way to assImilate
zone elements of progress, and no city OF An
ialIsa, not oven Seville, can rival Lima In the
sentimental charm which attaches to the vivid
presentation Of a remote aud romantic past.
The trdth OF the paradox that medieval spain
may be more prontaby studied at the foot OF
ihe Andes than Of the ryrenee' II well ought
out by n recent traveller. MAX RAptGuET, In
biz Souvenirs dc rAmortFio EspigROle Il; and a
flNnco at some Of the types and topical aspects
outlined In his book may recommend the Peru
ran c1uital to persons Of taste and leisure. A
IN officer Of the French navy, on the stan OF
Admiral Dupe.it-rhouars, NJ. Radiguet had
rood opportunities of social study and he re.
sails with lively zest the two weeks which
'iipped away In The lazy, serene current OF
B;man life.
Every morning, after the cup OF foaming
chocolate and two strips Of toasted bread which
constitute the frugal spanish breakfast, he be-
Hn the days work by slunterng to the main
"ruare. OF Plaza Mayor. which AZ all times wears
~ the stranger the semblance Of n masked ball
ander the open sky. He never tired OF admir-
nv tho artistic shapes and varieeated hues ~
ne native costumes, rmonr which the Eu.
ocean rb seems to have cut but sorry
isure. For men, indeed our sober. stereotvped
iress ia hcrinning 10 he accounted in Peru the
M ward iudpx ~ htph aoginl az af btf no
women, hatpHy, prove intractable to foreign
influence, and cling to the picturesque, ooquet.
hh features Of a toilet which has been little
nodded since the dav OF Pizarro.
Besides tho mantle. too well known 20 need
description. the majority Of tho Limanas at the
resent day wear a loose wide skirt, the so
allied dBp desDlegtdd: but you NAV stll meet
the arcades of tho plaza many women who
rave remained faithful to the narrow pctticoat.
ava dnGos'n, which forty years ago was alone IN
ise. The latter garment reaches from tho HIS
q the ankle and M the bottom Ia 90 small that
ne wcarer IL constrained TO put the same foot
orward at every step In walking. To mount
he Cathedral steps under these circumstances
"a COMPLICATED performance, upon which
strangers by the way are wont to bestow earnest
attention.
The capital Importance which In most conn
mies Of Europe belongs IN the head covering
me lady Of L,ma attributes TO her foot gear,
which, In her estimate, constitutes the touch
tone OF eleg tnee. woman OF fashion will
II no time wear ANYTHING but white
vilk shoes. and ehe assumes willingly the
snerous consequences Of this exacting and
sostly habit true Limana indeed would
nther walk up her hands thar 40
bear In public with shoes OF doubtful neat
hess. when our French nsneur, In the streets
~ A.l 4
sainty brodeqrins Of immaculate whiteness. he
annot refrain from bcmoaning their ephemeral
ulstence, and at the same time marveIlinR how
slender foot thus dclicately shod can withstand
he scorching pavements, against which the
most substantial tokens OF Crspin's hnndi work
lnord inadequate protection. Such. however,
the demand for these white slippers that
'pecsl market has been consecrsted to the
lightly wares, where on each Saturday the fairer
saf Of the Lman population makes its pur-
Ibases for the coming week.
To this day the dominant vice throughou,
Peru Is gambling, and NJ. RadIRuet could never
pass the open cook shops on the plaza. which
eemed to be substitutes for the Ruropaan c1f6
without witnessing some dismsI exhibition q
that passion. Nowhere IL the Goddess OF For
mne worshpped witt such stca HAST md uni
rersal zeal as In Lima, R,mes Of chance. wager
md lotteries absorbing the harl won gains Of
ME tattered muleteer, the sunburned herds
Dsn and the miner pallld from MS lahors IN
ME shaft. In the higher cl.sses OF society ruin
md afluence. resulting from play. are phenom-
ma so common that they elicit no remark.
Even women yield to the Epidemic although
rambling seems to be prsctised by them only
ander exceptional conditions. For the most
part they are content to follow with assidui.y
he drawings OF the national lottery. These
lak ri IN Ipta
visit every house. recommending each Of their
numbers by iacng II under the protection OF
particular saint. The public draw Ing Is attend
sd with some ceremony, being performed In
The open air on the Plaza Mayor upon platform
erected for the purpose In the foreground on
such occa-ions are placed four colossal wheels
which arr set In rapid revolution. Behind these
stands the bureau III pcrintended by several dis
ungnished citizens, including a Government
eiilclal. As the hour OF drawing approaches.
the throns OF spectators is swollen nv people
OF all ranks and orders, the country folk for the
most part standing on tip-toe In their broad
stirrups to secure better view OF the proceed.
ing, and the lady In her silk dress not hesltat-
Ing at such moment to hold fast her post Of
observation, although squalid negro may be
standing beside her. Presently the signal Is
given, and forthwith hundreds OF white hands
make the sign Of the cross, while red Hips muir
muir seldsn pdteT nOsters and every eye Is rlvet-
cd on the stage where 10 the profit Of e. Give
lucky ones such is the usual tale OF winning
pumbers) so many Illusions are to be sh altered.
The Plaza Mayor IL the rendezvous Of all idle
folk In Lima. To md some traces OF Industry
and trade you must traverse the few narrow
streets which radiate from the square. Here
nkewlse the stranger encounters an endless va
r1ety OF genre pictures. Tho architecture OF the
houses, although their fat roofs and single
stories might seem to Insure tolerable degree
of uniformity, presents on a nearer view many
striking individual features. Hore, for instance,
rises bell tower at other points Jut forward
balconies, whose corners seen IN respective ~
Jemble the steps Of glgauuc fight OF stairs.
Now and then through the half opened blinds
you catch a glimpse Of some comey youus
sirl with al red pink or CRIMSON rosc In her 4 m
aoher. Even the gallinnso5, spec es Of crow,
which with perfect mrunit; perch IN fl cks ou
che roofs, add something characterize To the
scene. We may add that tlemlddle OF the busy
thoroug hlate0 = occupied by canals Of riLniu..
VA sr' "hlfh ou cross IN Tiny wooden bridge
The more remote ounYiue streets are common
" uhpayed, aud th o. you VIDE through sea
o. dust mixed with raj bi.h and od,I 81 tl