Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-01-03


This season of social festivity recalls 10
the memory of many of our older readers a
domestic institution which has fallen into
disfavor in modern times. We refer TO pies.
Of late years IL has become fashionable 10
sneer at this once popular article of food. In
the pomp and circumstance CT what is called
"a classic cuisine" there is no place for the
bomely pie OF fruit, mince, or pumpkin,
which has graced alike the boards OF the
KnickeTbockers and the Pilgrims. 1t is true,
too, that ignorant persons have, in the pre-
mas which doctors have pronounced on all
kinds OF pastry. As etatuary may be de-
based by worthless casts, or dishonored by
vicious models, SO pies may be- aud have
from good old rule. The pie, such as our
fathers and mothers knew il, has fallen upon
evil days.
This is unjust The pie OF commerce is
chiefly responsible for the mischief. The pie
which comes out of bakers carts, or is ex-
posed in the windows of French pastry
cook, has no relation whatever TO the home
made article. 1t is vain for designing people.
who admit the baseness with which they ap-
peal 10 an old prejudice, to advertise their
abOminable preparations as "Mrs. Blackwell
home made pies" The dish honestly called
by that name is not hawked about the streets
II belongs TO the home, and can no more be
the frsside, the laughter Of the children, and
all the rest Of that nameleSs charm which we
cali domesticity. The pie OF New York and
New England, where II still fingers in few
favored homes, is nodrishing AMI delicate as
TO It's II terror, and crisp, but fiak Ky and melt
ing ing, as TO rs crust: trencn COOKS
fakiness, of which ore may speak as
Charles Lamb did OF a quality in roast pig
'crGcAiiHg.' The pastry of the foreign imi;a-
tor is dry as shlveTet glass above, and deadly
with indigestibIe grease beneath. Tn.
Frenchman's structure Is pretentious wnen
pufed up on plate. But 1t is not compare
bic with that suhsC tial but delicate mold
OF pastry in which the old time housewife
"a d a compound of orchard fruits, spicy with
odors, ard bringing to the grateful palate
uDC eined Teco!lections OF flowers and sweets
and sunshine. The deluSive pies OF the con-
fectioner's art should be given over to de-
stru ction. They advertise themselves where
Like the pies OF the baker, and like Marx
Twain's hash, they are mystery" But the
honest fruit-pies of summer and fall, and the
mipce and pumpkin OF winter, are sacred TO
the family. The scret of making them
heslthful and alluring may be partially lost;
tut agalns sucn pies there is no law-ly-
gienic or otherwise.
There is something nationaliu the prevail
ing taste for pies. Wherever the passion
may have originated, il has firmly rooted it.
self in our own soil. The smallest curbstone
vender OF eatables must have pies, or ne has
no customers. y well-regulatei eating
house can no more exist an hour without
pies than well regulated theater can be
without an fDJunctiOn; and the establish
ment OF piedealer in corner of Mr.. Null
let's granite pile in this city was lately
made matter of national concern. II is by
did not conquer on the very Indifferent pies
TO which they were VIGOROUSLY afflicted.
Certainly they carried the pie OF the north to
regions where 10 was before unknown. When
the Army OF the Potomac pursued StOnewall
JacksOn's men through Maryland. they
spared the rebel sympatnlzers Who had re-
fused to initiate the conduct OF Barbara Freit-
chic, but they devoured all the pies in the
land. One of Lincoln's favorite stories was of
the Union soldier, who, borne TO the rear with
both legs shot of. asked a ple-vender,
whodrOve her trade close 10 the edge of ba tile.
"Say, old lady. are those pies sewed or
pegged." The American tar returning from
q long voyage, seeks mis- pie before he looks
for any other eatable thing. Even in the
primitive and frugal days OF the New Eng
land Puritans, il was thought necessary for
the fathers 10 preach against mince pies and
Christmas, because they savored of Papistry.
The New Englanders have survived that
early prejudice, and the whole nation re-
joices in freedom to eat pie after the dictates
OF its own conscience. 1t is a pity that this
natural and We may say national, desire for
should be so imperfectly met. 1t cannot be
possible that the domestic pie OF our fore
fathers land toremothers) has gone out with
the fireplace and flial respect. This is the
age OF reservations and revivals. Perhaps
some apostle OF good living will bring back
the pie of other days. One of our own poets
Joel Barlow, himself hOnored by two CONT
nentS, celebrated the praises OF hasty pud.
ding. Some other patriotic bard may rise 10
sing the revival of the home made pie.-[N