Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1876-09-03


or three young American women. II
the truth were known, dare say 1t
would be discovered that recent fashions
had bsen specially designed to suit their
peculiarities. He does not permit such
women ss he takes fancy TO dress, to
wear stiff ugly cOrsets, but Insists upon
email, sstin corslets, claspsd close to the
figure, and only surrounded by an edg-
ing O! lace, or pointed edge OF embr0i-
derry, which outlines but does not cover
the bust, and is covered with fine per-
Gale, or linen cambria corset cover, fitted
perfeclly to the form. Small and slen-
der women may luxuriate, therefore, in
the present styles, for they seem to have
been invented especially for them, and
while the taller aud thinner OF their sex
must wear "dress.improvers," and pad
or wear large corsets, which give them
the appearance Of breadth, the young
and slender, and not too tall, may de-
pend wholly upon what nature has done
for them, and simply prevent art from
disfguring them.
CoLoRs
offer nothing new since last season, ex-
cept the different applications of red to
black, and white, or cream color. Even
ing shades are tints, as they were last
season-thst Of celestial blues, creams,
waters, and moonlight shades. Day
colors have resolved themselves also
into the darkest seal-brown, claret, in
digo. blue and black, but brown takes
the lead. Nor do the mixtures of color
and striking contrasts, so often seen
abroad, find favor here. Nothing Is so
fashionable or 80 distinguished in this
country as a rich costume of one shade
OF color, with recently, the relief when
it is black or very dark, of cream
tinted hat and gloves. But we see for
street wear no cream.colOred silk vests
with dark silk dresses or white polo
naises with dark skirts; these, If worn
at all, would be reserved for indoors, or
at least for carriage costumes.
Even the introduction of high color in
the way Of ribbons, feathers and gold
buttons will be very sparingly allowed,
for there is nothing that vulgsriZes a
rich dress mora certainly than the pres
ence of eplsshes of bald, foreign color.
London seems to be behind rather than
ahead Of US in design, for silk costumes
composed of several shades of one color
are spoken OF as a novelty, while here
they have been common for several
years past.
LONG WAISTS.
The long, slender cut given to the
waist has not diminished; on the con-
trary, it has reached its EXTREMIST linn
its. The difference of an irch in mans
nose is proven bal; the difference of an
inch in the length of dress waist not
only marks the difference between FASH
ion and the want of it, but, addsd to the
present proportions, would give US the
measure between the sublime and ride
ul0us. A waist curved smoothly over
the hips in true May ensge style is
graceful at least, an inch longer and it
is not. The long, sloping waists have
rid us of the bustle. The fulIness, what
there is, is massed lower, or rather, it
should be said, draped lower upon the
skirt, for there is but little massing Of
folds. Princess pOlOuaises are buttOned
down the back, far below the lines of
the skirt, are then caught up or drawn
together, or arranged with loops or
fringe in such way as to form drapery
that dispsses CT itself quite naturally
amid the f0uDces and fur0elows of the
skirt. Tight-itting basques not being
good storm" for the street, the long,
plain cuirasse, which most girls sffsct,
and all well-formed women also. is
supplemented by simple, half fitting
jacket, made of the same daIk material
as the dress, but buttoned in front,
while the basque is generally buttoned
behind. This makes complete and
very comforts bic suit, quite warm
enough, II the jacket is lined with opera
flannel, for far into the winter.
KNIFE PLATING.
Handmade "kuiie,n or fine eide plait-
ing, will come back to us shortly, re-
infoEced by Partisan authority. Strange
TO say, the exquisite plating which has
been SO common here is hardly to be
seen in Paris, and is scarcely known be-
yOnd certain exclusive limits. 1t is Just
beginning to be popularized, and will
probably Ieappear among US as French
novelty.
Certainly there is no finish to a silk
dress Of medium texture and quality
which ls &C pretty, so graceful anu 80 be-
coming, The most charming dress in
the world for young girl Of the slender,
chestnut'hstred American type, is 3
dark, naVy-blue silk, fully trimmed with
infinitely plated TUffles and Fl uuces,
and only relieved by inside ruches of
white tulla at the neck and wrists. The
idea OF such dress is an artistic iD6pira'
hiOAA VI
OUR CIVILIZATIONS.
This year will probably see the last of
the "combinstion' suits They have
tided us over the worst, it is hoped, Of
the hard times; they have enabled US to
wear out our clothes; put two dresses to
make one, and Vice UeTSG, aud now we
are becoming tired of them. Ia fact,
like other "combinations,n it is not Ia
the nature of things for them to exist
too long; they get demOralizsd, aud that
ia exactly what is the matter with our
combination suits. No Chatham street
dealer could turn cut more disreputa-
ble'lookipg lot Of suits and COSTUMES"
than psss IN review uEon any fIequented
thorOughfare. The mixture of the old
and the new; homemade attempts to
copy the intricacies of modern fashion
able style; the rebellious efforts at COM
fort in spite Of fashion, and the desperate
endeavors OF poverty to ape the man
ners OF wealth, are all written out as
plainly as the writing on the ancient
wall, and are grotesque enough to make
one laugh, and pitlaole enough to make
one weep.
But through 1t all is plainly seen the
death OF the combination" as it at
present.exists. Perhaps it temperance
under some new form is possible, but
certainly there will be a revival, to some
exteut, of simple methods.
COLLARS AND CUFFS.
We have one consolation In the midst
of the confusion of ideas and general
perplexities which exist in regard to
dress, and that is in the sensible solu-
ton, for the present, at least, of the col
lar and cuff question; and, to a cer.ain
extent, this selves other problems for
US. 1t preserves the general character
of the close-cut sleeve and the high bod.
ice. The straight rim o. linen collar,
with small, square corners turned over,
hut not laid fiat, and neatly attached to
8 yoke which keeps 1t in place, and at
the same time preserves the purity of
the inside OF the dress, seems to quite fill
the bill. Certainly they are preferred
for all ordinary purposes to any other,
and the more fastidious and refined their
wearers are, the more perfectly they ap.
preciate the absolute neatness aud mani
fold good qualities of the present styie Of
ilCn collars. The new forms are in DIFF
ierent styles, plain white or with a rim
tbr e-quarters of an inch wide OF solid
blue, dark brown or erin
sou. The crimson is not cloud and il
very effective with plain dark gray
dress, belt and sword-knoto of crimson.
and crimson bowO feather ia dark-prav