Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-04-01

A Breeze from the Centeunial-The
New and Old In SPrfag Sly les Of Bon
nets and Costumes.
IFrom Our Ocn CorrespoRdent1
NEW YORK, March IS.

NEW YORK, March IS.
The forty days of Lent have scarcely ex-
hibited the dull, quiet, orderly routine which
usually characterizes the penitential season.
An agitation came TO rutiie the calm and
placid surface of the atmospherically serene
March day, and very properly IL was breeze
from the Centennial. Its unfortunate that,
so far as women are concerned, this move
meDt has been made the instrument OF a
blow at industrial workers, and q means of
drawing with great distinctness a line OF
class distinction which heretofore has failed
10 ind deliberate and official recognition in
this country. The great body of women
workers have been LEFT out aud have no re-
cognition in the councils, and even the art
element, which has been almost exclusively
cultivated. has been SO snubbed in New
York, that the women artists have formed a
Centennial Union OF their own, and are hard
at work try ing 10 rsise funds and put such
forces In operation as Will enable them TO
make a credi;abe exhibit of art work.
1t has been stated that the only kinds of
clothing really excluded from the women's
department. OF the centennial exposition
were Boomers, dress reform garments, and
the like. but this is rot true, the exclusion
applies 10 the most Srtisticslly constructed
dress, or bonnet, as well as to the "chemi-
loon" and obnoxious trousers, Rnt it is TO
he regretted much less for what IL deprives
us OF in the way of show, which most Of us
can very well spare, than because IL strikes
another, and deadly blow at honest ana
honorable Work. separating the makers OF
clothing from The workers In other depart
DER unworthy OF representation. No such
distinctions are drawn in the main exhibit
ton. Mems clothing will he exhibited there,
as well as the materials of which 10 is made.
and no man Will be ticketed as unworthy be-
cause be make coats. instead of cloth. 1t is
undoubtedly true that the working interest
in clothing being greater among women than
all others put together, NJ would swamp the
others if allowed unlimited sway; IL is also
desirable without doubt TO encourage an
stimulate branches of work less known. But
it is also most true that the number of art
workers must always, of necessity, be more
limited than the number of industrial work
eTs, that the prejudice against working for
money among women is very strong, lying
at.the root of much OF our social demorRliza
ton, and DO word or deed on the part of
women engaged in a broad centennial work
should have been permitted To emphasize it.
The original mistake lay in forming the
centennial committees almost exclusively
from among women practically uuac-
quainted with the active industries aud
lab0riO1s achievements OF their sex, and
who therefore understand neither the needs
OF working women, nor their influence.
Centennial committees of women should
have been cOmpOs ed, in part at least, of
women representative of modern activities
OF the thought, and the practical forces,
which the thought and Intelligence or mod
eTn women have formulated. IL was not
necessary TO include the so-called I'D
vaDced" or reform elements, although
upon what principle of right they could be
excluded If they had good thing TO offer, 1
do not know, but no honest workers as a
class Should have been excluded. On the
contrary, the first hing done should have
been 10 offer Inducements for high class
work In every department IN which women
are represented, and then the best workers,
lndeneDdent OF poverty or isolation, would
have been strengthened, encouraged and
stimulated; even If they had had personally
no chance for successful competition.
But what has this 10 DO with Spring Fash
ions? Literally nothing, but 10 divide our
| interest with the new bonnetS ard the pretty
dresses. Strangely enough, it is the very
women who exclude the new bonnet, and the
| dress, 10 whom they are ali important.
Women artists, and women workers OF ali
k1Ids, pay but little attention to their dress,
| ana would be glad if the question could be
settled for them, precisely as IL is for men,
without the necessity of a personal expendi-
lure OF time, strength and labor,
The fashions of the present season are fore
ordained, so 10 speak, partly by the recent
Introduction OF popular leading ideas, partly
by the Centennial movement, which tents
toward The revival OF certain Anticipated
fcIms. We are nothing If not cream color,
and cream-oo lored lace, combined with the
deepest, darkest blue, brown, black, or red.
Then We are nothing If we are not centen-
NAL; IL we do not wear Martha Washing
ton cap 10 breakfast, and folds of tulle inside
our square necks, and If We have not some
Old point, some old china, and some Old can
dlesticks.
The position is embarrassing, and some
what difficult for unsophisticated people TO
understand. Not few write letters deSir-
ing to Know in what way venerable bed
hangings, remnants of dresses hundred
years OlO, DrdSs aDQlrODE, ana relics oil
earlhen-ware can be made to contribute to a
suitable centennial outfit. They do not see
That these things are valuable from the
aesthetic, but not from the practical, point OF
view. While we adore them in a cabinet or
upon a elyet-covered bracket, we cannot
purchase bread with them, or parade them
and il is astonishing how many handsome
women there are with white hair nowadays
bull we cannot wear a calash without at
tracing unpleasant observations; so we are
Obliged rnSQTUa mo
ehects for the hreslde, where they are in
dulged rather than appreciated, aud fall
back, for the street and common wear, upon
the most ordinary models and ordinary at
tire. Novelties! What desperate attempt
we do make TO get ur the required new thing
for every season, in every detail OF costumei
Sometimes something is taken of; some
times II Is put on; sometimes il is made
wider, sometimes narrower, then longer,
then shorter; colors are changed, stripes run
up and down or all round, or they are barred
OIL into checks, and each time we de
clare IL all better than anything that
ever was done before: In sober truth,
the work OF changing, might all ne
spared. For five or six years past the changes
have been only in the minuti9 of costume;
and have usually been the desperate efforts
of unfortunate Paris modestes 10 satisfy the
American demand for novelty. Our women
are intoxicated with the desire for something
"new." 1t is the result of their irresponsible
lives, OF their lack OF house duties and larger
interests; activity must find a field some
Were ana SO Iney keep III up IN dress. This
year, for example, we no longer trim our
dresses, Of were a Boston woman should
say yours,) with the fine knife pleatings
when are SO really pretty and effective. DO
you know the reason why? Because cheap
and handy little machine has been invented,
which makes Ii for cent q yard, whereas IL
used to cost dollar TO make by hand, and
then the use Off was restricted. Now ''every-
BODY" can have il, and so 1t is no longer pref
ty or desirable, and we shall have shirred
rDffies, IL any at all, which indeed is profile
matical, as the latest Partisan advices have
not been received, and we are not certain
whether ruffies for summer dresses will be
recommended or not.
1t is the fashion to talk about Paris FASH
ions in this oIacular style, but when they ar
rive we find them so variously compounded
that Moses himself would be puzzled 10 get
clear idea In regard to any one thing out of
them. And then we talk wisely about the
constantly increasing latitude OF fashion,
and the sensible adaptation 10 the utmost
diversity Of figure and style.
"Have women any common sense?" was a
proposition gTavely put at a recent woman's
meeting, and the reply just as gravsly made,
was, "under certain circumstances, should
say not"
Dress and fashion seem to come under the
head of those certain circumstances.
W