The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1876-02-24
Spring BOnnets.

New spring bonnets begin to arrive al
wholesale millinery establishments. The
first importations are study in variety,
as scarcely any two shapes seem exactly
alike. Milliners complain that it is COM
ing to be with bonnets as with coiffures-
different style is required for each head;
and this should be the case. In this great
variety there are both large and small
bonnets, flaring fronts and close ears,
square crowns and round crowns, and
finally the unexpected bonnets with
curtains reappear, but these are so clum-
sy looking that they are not very well re-
ceived. The one uniform feature of the
new stock is the high effect given to all.
whether by crown or raised front.
The material is very soft light chip, either
cream, white or black. The probability
is that the popular shape for young ladies'
dress bonnets will be the poke-b bonnet,
which is now so much worn in felt and
velvet. This is straight up-and- down
shape that is placed directly on the back
of the head, leaving the whole top of the
head uncovered. The front of the bonnet
is very high and prominent, and is filled
in with face trimming that crosses the
top but does not extend down the sides,
which sit closely against the head back of
the ears. The crown may be round,
though it is newer to have it very posi-
lively square. There is very little room
for trimming on such bonnets, hence
there are two long streamers Of ribbon
floating behind and extending far below
the waist. An extreme shape among new
bonnets has large high crown, with
coronet front, that rolls very much higher
on one side than the other, while the back
has sort of tiuted curtain of the chip.
This curtain is about two inches deep,
and is indented in two or three large seal
lops; similar curtains appear on other
bonnets of different shapes. Another
bonnet, with ample crown and close ears,
has been imported for old ladies, who
have had reason to complain of late that
no provision was made for them.
Round hats show very little novelty in
shape. The most graceful model has Il
square brim projecting far over the eyes
in front to protect them well, while the
sides and back are turned upward. This
hat resembles the reversible felt bonnets
that are worn this season. There are also
many round crowned Derby hats such as
are now used Turbans with brims close
ly curled upward all around the crown
are shown for those who do not like the
fashion of leaving the top of the head un-
covered.
Light colors will prevail in milliners'
materials. Black bonnets are by no
means to be abandoned, but white and
light bonnets for dress occasions have
been so successful this winter, that they
will be far more generally adopted when
warm weather returns than they have
been for years The list of colors found
in invoices of millinery are ip0ire, creme,
be, Ita;te, biscuit, ctel, cart'ital, marroa,
and noir. Bile, or wheat shades, and yell
low tints that deepen into buff, straw
color and canary will be much used;
salmon is discarded as mongrel shade
because of its pinkish hues, It's the fancy
nowis for pure and positive colors. There
are also very delicate rose tints, sea- foam
green, and pale French gray.
Soft brocaded and basktt-wOven silks
and ribbons to match will be the trim
mings for early spring bonnets. These
silks are all of one shade, with tiny
armure figures, matte squares, or else
raised tioriated designs. The granite pat
terms of last year are again represented,
Some ribbons are so thick with raised
rough surfaces that they have the appear
ance Of being wadded, yet are as flexible
as lutestring. Satin d Antique, like satin on
one side, while the other is repped like gros
grain, is another soft, rich fabric that will
be used for the handsomest bonncts. Rib
bons come in the loosely -tresaed basket
woven designs like silk; these are not al
ways one color, but are prettily varied
thus there are tiny checks of cream, blue
and rose, or else Of black, white and car
dinal, or of bic, rose and n,arron, or else
there are three tones of blue or of rose, or
perhaps there is white with blue or with
lilac or with rose, or it may be merely
white with black. Other very choice rib
bons have twilled blocks, with the twill
of the block next it reversed. Wider rib
bons, measuring three or four inches, ere
more largely imported than narrow ones.
The cardinal red colors are still largely
imported.
Thin fabrics are once more displayed
for bonnet trimmings. There are gauze
with tiny open spaces and blocks
like the grenadines worn last summer
These are shown in solid colors or else in
two contrasting colors, such as navy blue
with creme, or cardinal red with pale
French gray. There is also fine sheer
gauze like grenadine, in ecru and buff
tints, sold for draping bonnets and for
wells. These ecru gauze wells will, it is
said, take the place of the dark grenadine
ones now worn for undress occasions.
The new cream tinted cashmere lace for
light hats glistens like hoar-frost, and is