Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1876-03-07
EarIy Tomatoes, BeetS, and
Onions.

To secure earliness in fruiting Tomatoes
we start the plants early in the hOt-bed-
in the latter part of February or begin.
ming of March-for, like the corn plant
and some others, the Tomato is disposed
to fruit at a certain age, although OF but
a dwarlcl growth. But little reliance is
placed upon this alone, and from the be-
| ginning the most thrifty growth is sought
and special treatment is given to induce
fruiting earlier than is natural. As soon
as the second Leaf appears prick them out
in boxes for convenience in moving
and handling) about an inch apart each
way. When they have grown so as to
touch each other transplant into other
boxcs, placing them two and half inches
4 apart each way, where they remain until
/ removed to the field for final setting. But
several times during their growth in the
las, box, we draw knife midway between
the plants each way, thus roOt-pruning
them and each time inducing new
Growth Of fine roots close to the plant
each transplanting, too, has the same effect
thus rendering the plant stacky, sure to
live. and by the repeated rOot-prunings
inducing early bloom aud fruit. At all
STAGES Of growth in the hot-bed the plant
should, Of course, be allowed plenty Of air
and in no case allowed TO become drawn
or spindling. When taken 10 the field in
these boxes, the soil should be thoroughly
wa,cred az hour or two before wanted,
arl then by cutting between the plants
each vay,;hc mass ofibrous roots will hold
together the soil in which they grew, aud
thus can be set in place without disturbing
the roots and hut slightly stopping the
growth.
\ better plan than to grow in boxes is,
st the llast transplanting to put single
rlant, into the half OF quart oyster can
Or in pint flower pots Each can is cut in
two parts with a stifed backed saw. A
hole is made in the bottom Of each part
with chisel or Ratchet, and this hole
fitted with a loSely-ftting chip. \ tin
pot lor can about one and half by two
and a half inches wide, two inches deep
ard fitting nicely in the bed, or packing
firmly for shipment or for carriage TO the
field, and lasting for years, Is thus fur
ni>hed at a triAing cost. When carried
to the field a steady pressure Of the thumb
through the hole against the chip lifts the
plant, roots. dir, and all undisturbed, SO
that not a days growth is lost because OF
the removal. whereas, by the too common
method Of removing directly from the seed
bed 20 the garden, the plant Is 50 long III
re,overiu. from the shock Of remoyal-ii
p indeed IL RECEIVERS at all-that 1t Is but
little earlier than plants from the open
ground.
Fo. cur later and main crop We trans
r,an. into boxes once. at leaSt-not for
c-r.iuess bu; ;omake stocky plants and to
insure their living when set out, for though
very tenacious OF life when once establish
ed. no plants are so liable TO loss as sappy
and spindiug tomato plants not especially
prepared for planting out. All plants be-
fore taking 10 the garden should be set up
on the frames or elsewhere so that air can
circulate freely among them. For several
DAYS previous give but little water so that
thew Shall become woody and hardy
Stockv plants are so thoroughly hardened
by such treatment, that they show no more
trace of a frost than q slight scorching OF
the leaves, while good plants by their side
bu; little hardened, are often entirely kill
cd byit. For an early crop warm sandy
soil, but moderately rich, is best The
only fertilizer to be applied is in the hill,
to stimulate Z quick, early growth. This
is lesseued and the fruiting tendency in-
creased as soon as the roots extend be-
vond the hill. For the late and main
crop, where amount and not earliness is
sought, have never yet seen warm soil
made too rich.
Working the soil is begun in a few days
and repeated every five days till the vines
interfere. On scarcely any crop does con-
stan; cultivation pay 50 well aS on this.
Not merely does it increase the yield but
very decidedly the earlineSs It's value TO
the crop cannot be too highly commended.
/ Cracking and uneveness Of fruit are not
always the fault of the variety, but are,
in some measure, climatic or due TO the
soil. A variety, for years free from such
faults, may during some particular season
] or on some particular soil, with all others
near them, suffer from these causes All
that can be done is TO give good tillage
and use care IN seed-saving
Beets and onions should be started in a
hot-bod at least four weeks before the
time Of sowing the seed in the open ground
and six Is better, especially for Onions)
IN boxes. making the drills two inches
apart, aud sowing thickly in the drills
/ They grow best with but mild heat, and
after the plants are up the boxes may be
set in beds two-thirds exhausted, from
which more tender plants have been re-
moved TO warmer quarters. The beets
| should be allowed more room than the
| onions, for If the season be unusually late
setting Is delayed, and they sometimes get
bottoms half an inch thick before they
can be removed. The beets DO best if all
but two inches of the leaves be sheared
of. Setting ont is done faster than crop
can be weeded. 1t makes sure of good
stand, and altogether il is bat little, if any
more expensive than 4 crop raised in the
ordinary manner, while it Is sure OF sale
at an extra market The Egyptian Tur-
nip Beet, seems especially adapted TO this