Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1876-05-12
sunday I'm Russia.

The bells were ringing all thiS morning.
But that is so common an occurrence in
Russia that Of itself it would hardly dis
tinguish Sunday from any other day. The
shops, however, were closed in all the
main thoroughlares. There was greater
crowd than usual in the streets, notwith-
standing the snow, which came down in
heavy flakes, though up to a late hour on
the previous night the weather would have
been considered warm. even in London at
this time of year; and the roadside shrines
were beset with more than their usual
multitude OF worshippers, kneeling and
praying before the pictures of the Savior
and the Virgin. To-day is festival in the
Greek church and l have spent the morn
ing listening 20 the Russian service. To
say that followed the service would he
misstatement. Even If my knowledge OF
Russian was as copious as 1t is limited
and that is saying good DEALT would
have been impossible to understand the
words of the chanted liturgy, sung, as it
was, in tone purposely designed SO as
not "to DC understood of the people," But
by the kind assistance of friend, and the
aid Of n translation Of the prayers, was
enabled to understand the general outline
Of the service fully as well, L suspect, as
the majority OF the congregation. The
whole service is conducted by the priests,
and the congregation, beyond bowling at
stated intervals and crossing themselves
from time to limc takes no part whatever
in the ceremonial. OF course, my obser-
vations aie confined TO the churches of the
capital. In the country, have no doubt,
things are managed less decorously, and,
possibly, also with more display of icrvor.
But, just as the service is substantially the
same in Westminster Abbey, so the ritual
performed at the Metropoliton Church at
st. Pc tersbuIg is identical with that in any
remote Russian village.
On entering the churches of the capital,
not excepting even the grandest-that on
the Isaac's place are struck with
something of the feeling which impresses
you on your first entry into one of our
English csthedrals. The space seems too
large for the worshippers; the absence of
side chapels gives certain empty aspect
TO the vast space. The stage, if may use
The metaphor rs applied 10 the altar, ap-
pears too small for the house the number
of actors thereon too limited for the gran
deur of tho spectacle. The altar, which
stands at the short end of the Greek cross
which forms the shape Of all great Russian
churches, is hidden from view by the gold
en- trellis-worked gates, and the priest off,
ciating at the entrance of the Holy Of Ho-
lios is almost lost to view amid The crowd
which throngs the nave and transepts. The
walls, indeed are covered with pictures of
the Holy family, the faces enshrined with
halOs of solid gold, the frames inlaid with
je wells and precious stones but still these
side pictures Lave not the knots of worship
pers around them you see gathered about
the side allars in Catholic churches; and
somehow the congregation seems TO be
composed rather of lookers-on than of par
takers in the service performed before the
high altar. Scattered all about the church
are stalls, at which brisk trade is being
carried on in wax tapers. No credit is Civ
en-; and the chanering between the huck-
sters and the customers is carried on with
| an eaGerness somewhat inconsistent with
our notions of the decorum due to the fact
that the service is going on while the bar
| gain is being completed. You can buy
any sort OF taper, from one as big as your
fist 10 one as slender as your little finger (;
and the price seems not only in accordance
with the size of the candle, but with the
coslliness oi the demand aud the presumed
meaus of the purchaser. At the same
stalls, toe, you can buy bread that has been
blessed by the Popes, illuminated lives OF
the saints to whom the church is especially
devoted, and all sorts of sacred badges.
| But the chief article of this church barter
consists of tapers. Having got your ta-
pers, you may offer them at any shrine
you think fit TO favor. Before each of the
pictures of the Saviour, the Virgin, or the
Apostles, with which the church walls are
adorned, hangs a sort of iron chandelier,
fitted with upright iron spikes, on which
you may affix your taper. There is fash
ion about these chandeliers as about all
other things mundane or spiritual. On
some chandeliers there is such rush thai
every spike is occupied, and you have tC
wait till some taper has guttered out, and
then you can place your own in its stead
Other chandeliers, again, show a perfec
forest of empty spikes TO beggarly array
of candles.
Meanwhile, though the service is pro
ceeding, there is a constant coming and 60
ing throughout the church. People are
constantly entering and departing; there
are little crowds about the stalls and thu
chandeliers. The droning singing of the
priests sWells from time to time into 1
burst of sound. and then dies away till |
becomes almost inaudible. The incense
vessels are swung to and fro; the heavy
fragrance of the spice nils the building, anC
then passes away; and still the endless
chanting goes on without ceasing. Th'
crowd which fills the church is a very mix
ed one. Ladies in furs and sables, will
tiny bonnets placed on the back of higl
chignons and immense poufs' swelling
out their fur-lined velvet mantles, officer
in full uniform, Mouiiks in sheepskiI
coats, common soldiers, nurses, children
beggars in tattered nondescript garments
all stand side by side in the crowd, which
whether in nave or transept, turns its fac
toward the altar. There are neither pew
nor chairs, nor seats of any kind. Every
body stands throughout the whole service
Bowings, crossings, kneelings there are in
Vulnerable; but, in as far as a spectato
can Judge, they are made OF no particula
point of the service, In accordance with NJ
common signal, but according to the ca
price of each individual worshipper. Eve
and anon the persons around you drop on
by one upon their knees. Some simpi,