The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1876-10-26
Autumn Fashions.


THE Lady Washington basque, prin-
cesse apron, and fan-train is an excel
lent model of fashionable French cos
tunes of this season.
Breakfast sacques of bright colors
are worn again, after having been
abandoned SO long for shawls. They
are made of cream white, cardinal red
or blae cloth prettily embroidered, and
cost from four to seven dollars.
Holbein green is quaint olive tint
used by Parisiennes in combination
with light blue. 1t is newer than the
cardinal and blue combination now
adopted here. Gray trimmed with
black that is piped with cardinal re-
mains one of the favorite combinations
of colors.
Figured goods are finally pleasing
the popular fancy. Instead of plain
black cashmere polonaises, those that
are now most worn are of basket
woven or other square-fgured black
wool goods, while the small brocaded
patterns are chosen for rich silk and
velvet over-dresses.
The extreme French fashion is to
have the back of the over-skirt almost
as plain as the front; but this has not
yet become fashionable here, and in
stead the slight looping of the over
skirt is placed very low on the figure,
while others are in large perpendicular
pleats that lie almost flat on the lower
skirt.
Evening cloaks are large Dolmans of
white embossed velvet, or of pale blue
or cream color, trimmed with feather
bands. Instead of these many ladies
use their carriage cloaks of black gros
grain with fur lining, or of gray cam
els hair, richly embroidered, OF braid
ed and bordereo with feathers or with
fur.
Cardinal red is the favorite color for
Balmoral skirts this season. They are
male of felt, and are trimmed with
two wide knife-pleated frills, or else
with three or four narrower ones
pinked on each edge. They cost from
three to four dollars each. Still newer
than these show the lazy blue and car
dinal combinations now in vogue.
There is an effort to introduce swal-
lOW-tail baSques, with the long, mar
row ends lost in the intricacies of the
two lower skirts, but these do not
seem to meet with favor. The front
has an inner vest in the long Centen-
NAL shape, while the insides begin at
the throat to slope away and extend
backward to the swallow tail
There are many polonaises without
drapery, but those look as plain as an
Ulster or casaque, and the preference
here is for those that are sloped plain
for half yard, or even more, below
the waist, and then draped and folded
in shawl shape, or with Tapped ends
caught up to the plain part on each
side, or pleated in a double box-pleat,
with some irregular looping still lower
down.
Ladies who have evening dresses left
over from last season will find it an
easy matter to remodel them, as the
new dresses are combinations of sew
eral materials. The partly-worn dress
will at least serve for foundation:
the thing most necessary to be OBJ
served is that one tint is used through
out all the materials; the contrast |
must come from the flowers with which |
it is trimmed.
The imported evening dresses are
very rich this season. They are COM
binations of two, three, OF even four
materials, all of one tint, and are then
trimmed with flowers and lace. The
trained skirts are usually of gros
grain. The corsages and draperies are
of brocaded silk, OF embossed velvet,
or Chambery gauze, and the facings
are of satin, while the pleatings are of
crepe lisse or of silk.
There is an effort made by the dress
makers to combine the two lower
skirts, and this gives very much the
effect of polonaise suit; but this
fashion will be confined to the elabo-
rate dresses made by modistes, as it is
so complicated that ladies fear to I'M
dertake them at home. The long, sep
arate overskirt, draped in more fanci-
full fashions than formerly, is still the
upper skirt with ladies who
make their own dresses.
The clinging princesse costumes
worn without crinoline are the marked
features. The newest idea in these is
that of having the whole costume in
one piece, instead of in two, as with
The polonaise and skirt, or in three
pieces, as with the basque, overskirt
ma lower skirt. These new dresses
u a single piece have Il flounce OF other
trimming added to what seems to be a