The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-05-05
PR0VINCIdL LIFE IN GREECE.


modern Greece. The truth is that the carital Is
n pale copy OF thrd-rate French provincial
town, and presents nothing characteristic or
| notew orthy aside from It's ruins ana assOcia-
| tions. On the other hand, there ~ novelty and
substantial value In the observations Of less
conventional traveller, 81. Paul d Estournelles,
! who has lately returned from ten months so
| journ In the Morea.
| Agon or vostizza. where he made his head
quarters, Is small city on the north cOnst OF the
| Pcloponuesus, between Patras and Corinth Al
| though a thriving port aud the seat OF sub
| prefecture, II has escaped the Infection Of a
| spurious civilization, and preserved the distinc-
| tive features OF Greek manners. The comforts
| and uxuries Of western Europe are not attain
able, and indeed scarcely com patible with the
out-of-door existence OF the people. The
| houses have no chimneys. and on cool days,
which are rare, brazie- Is resorted to for
warmth. The cuisine Is calculated to shock an
educated palate, each repast being prefaced by
a fish chowder, jumbed with tomatoes aud
sliced lemons, and drenched with olive oil. The
| bread, moreover, is kneaded without Ieaven. Is
unsalted and half baked, while the wine, n atli-
rally good, Ia converted by a large adnixture OF
rosin into black, nauseous draueht. The mod
ern Greeks, however, are water-drinkers, and on
fast days, which aggregate 100 In the year, fore
veg tables and olives.
European fashions have scarcely penetrated
the PelOponnesus, which re mains faithful to the
| traditional garb. The costume OF the pdlftdrt
| or gentry displays a degree OF splendor and
| variety altogether dsproportioned to their
| means, sometimes constitutes, indeed, the sole
wealth Of the wearer. The short sleeveless
Jacket or upper waistcoat, loaded with en-
| broidery and ornaments OF gold and silver, has
young girls wear their black hair In long tresses
and at balls or weddings are robed In long silk
| chemise, shaped like the ancient tunlc and
| caught at the waist by a silver clasp. A elk
| apron OF bright colors descending to the ankle
long sleeveless mantle open In front to disclose
the clasp, apron, and bosom, and clrclets OF
antique medals about the neck, brow, and hair,
| complete the picturesque attire.
| The remarkable beauty ascribed to the Greek
type, our traveller found confined to the male
sex. The men have regular and delicate features,
| straight, slender, and graceful figures. and the
| mesnest OF them, anayed 10 his brilliant dress,
has an air OF high distinction. The women, on
| the other hand, are universally ilI-m ade, and
fauItless face ID likewise rare, correctness Of
nle being commonly Offset by an ugly mouth and
teeth. What good looks they have are prema-
| tureiy spoiled by the fatieues OF laborious, Joy
less life, all the burdens OF child rearing and
| the household. including spinning and weaving,
resting on their shoulders while their leisure
| time, II any, must be spent In the field or vine
| yard. We may add that this narrow, monot onous
| existence Is singularly stainless, the morals Of
Greek women. at least In the provinces. being
entirely free from reproach.
| The national poetry, which Is stili cherished
| IN the Morea. seems TO be- transmitted from
mouth 70 mouth. 1t includes two forms. the
| al ma N
| rhythm without rhyme, and chronicle. with
| naive sometimes brutal simpIioitv the beroic
| scenes of the war of tendance or the ex-
| PLOTS Of some klepht or brigand chief Like
the Turks, the Greeks sing through the nose.
| and to a cultivated ear appear to range between
| q screecb and a whine. Their instrum eot.l
| music too, discovers a very imperfe,t copoep-
| ton of harmony, and would DEFY embodiment
| In our notation. Ono charming custom. oy
| rather rite, survives, and that ia the national
| dance, which IL a faithful reproduction of the
| antique orrnos or ring figure described bv 40
| many classic writer's Nothing could be more
gra cefui or more splendid. when the costumes
| are rich, than this human chain. ADVANCING
| yielding, unwinding, opedient to the cadence of
a chant, In which all the dapcers io,n or saints'
| days, which are celebrated by provincial Greeks
with peculiar fervor the ormos Is an inse parable
| feature.
By reason Of the warm climate and the album
dance of mulberry trees, the region about Aiglon
| Is highly favorable to silk culture. The silk Of
| the Morea Is thick, Of a nne color and oven
thread Most Of IL Is consigned to Greek factors
| at Marseilles, but a portion 10 retained by the
| growers To he woven 10 their own houses The
| native tissue, employed for underwear bed our
| tsins, and sheets. has a Iooser wool than most
| European textures aud resembles odse de Cham
| berry. Other products exported from Alglon are
| wool, olive oil, and Corinth raisins. immense
| quantities OF the latter commodity being an
| nualIy shipped to the London market
| A provincial town unawed by the police SUPER
| vision, which Is at least attem oted in Athena
affords a capital field for the study of the cleo
| toral machinery OF Greece The nrincinIs M
UNIVERSAL su"i"se !" eoecp'eo WITHOUT quaih-
| CATION single Ohathoerre represents the people,
ana Responsible CABINET intervenes between
| IL and the sovereign. In no parliamentary Gov
eminent are Ministerial crises 50 frequent aud
| the 1en al aIarfinna ranaaraA ~ .kor, t..s.