Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-08-01


lFrom Our OwR CorrespoadsntJ
SARATOGA SPRINGS, July Is, Is76.
The present season has been a harvest for
the laundresses, partly on account OF the
unusual heat, partly because 90 many more
white and cotton dresses have been worn
than have been common OF late years. A
very hot season, like very cold one, sets
fashion AT defiance. Every pulse OF the
human organization calls out for comfort m
comfort is TO be had; and there are times al
least when considerations OF fashion, even
potic goddess, are subject 10 the desperate
ne ed of freedom from burdensome restraint
Women, even those who visit Saratoga and
other great watering places, have not ways
seven great trunks; their wardrobes are more
frequently composed OF several half-worn
dresses, including the inevitable black silk
and grenadine, a spring suit, and one or two
summer cambrfcs and costumes. White
toilettes, except the ordinary Victoria or
linen lawn for morning wear, only form part
OF the Wardrooes OF young ladies, or very
wealthy your 6 married la1ies, for, IL simple,
they are too youthful for the wear OF matrons
as olpner or evening dresses. and, II elegant,
as composed OF lace, and worn over silk, they
are very costly, and require such perfection
OF detall as is not possible TO any but persons
Of large means.
But In very warm weather there is nothing
Ia The way or clothing so end1rable as a
white dress, and IL the binding heat OF the
late torrid July, white dresses, even old
white dresses, have been at a premium.
SUMNER LUXURIks.
In Saratoga, as elsewhere 10 is not, the oc-
cssional very ricd dresses that are worn,
which strike one with a sense OF luxury
half so much as the fineness and nicely
OF detail, and its absolute fitness 10 the
weather, to comfort, and TO the surround
ings. IL is not the place for eco nomy. yet
the eye is as much Offended by hesvy silks
and rich satins aud brocades, as by uni
form Toilets OF black alpaca. One seems as
much out OF place as the other; and seeing
such, or one composed OF q combination OF
purple SIX and velvet, as one has seen In
10 the Washington Spring, one involuntsri,
ly pities the wearef, ana arrives AT the con-
cluslon that IL is her one nice dress, and she
lelt sheimust wear IL. A white lava, on the
contrary, or cool and pretty cambria
trimmed with modern embroidery or linen
lace, would show sense OF fitness, and be
more likely TO be the attire OF women of real
position and society: Luxury consists al so,
and more than anything, In the delicacy OF
the minutia, the under wear of fine linen,
French made, without unnecessary fuIlness
shaped TO the form, and flushed with ex-
quisite neatness; the night dresses OF percale,
SO cool, so silkily fine and soft, with their
lace edglng or lace edged ruffies; the fine
white corset covers, and pretty jackets OF
cry, and quite pretty enough TO wear to
breakfast with q belt or a sash.
Luxury consists in having these things In
having sia them EN- IN profasion, and In not being
father brings us into higher region OF luxu-
~ still, region where the beauty of minor
belongings is supplemented oy the charm OF
the most eXquisitely delicate, and tasteful
dress. Here, as elsewhere, white is the test
OF luxury. Muslins delicate as crepe Iisse
laid In tiers and masses OF knife edged pleat-
lngs arranged over skirts of almost equal
texture, and completed by ribbons, and laces
arranged with artistic grace, and the skill of
the practical maid, as well as moiiste, for
no lady can dress herself properly nowadays
Failing all this, and 1t is easy TO see tibet IL
must fail many times and oft, what is mere
10 Go but sometimes ignore fashion and fall
s saGk t6 on lne Je,ieTsonian prncige Liberty
found necessity even In Saratoga. Failing
that test OF taste, modern white toilette
many ladies In the oppressive heat of the
midsummer days have taken refuge In the
antique, have ransacked their wardrobes
and produced white dresses made with DO
lonaises open in front and apron overs kirts;
white dresses made as Gabrielle dresses Ia
the fashion OF five years ago, and accompa-
MED by slippers, OF any age and any ia shion,
so they Were easy enough and thin enough.
WASHING DRESSES.
There Is no doubt as TO the desirabiIIty of
wearing washing dresses Ia summer, and IL
is matter OF surprise to good people who
i've In their own houses, and have their own
dresses and skirts in the wash as they please,
mat Inc fashionable women who live In no
tells and go TO watering places, avoid them,
and STICK to silks and wooden tissues, when
these useful fabrics stick to them; but the
reason is found In the length of the washing
Dill. A cotton or linen dress does not cost
SO much In the first place, but IL is bill OF
expenses right straight through. A little
friend OF mine cried when her bill for wash
ing three dresses came home the other day
1t was sl9.75. She had thought herself du
ydH In these things. She considered she was
making ample allowance in appropriating
IS as The expense for the most elaborate, and
- each for the others. She had struggled
WIN her desire TO have her dresses nicely
time before finally taking the step, and she
could hardly forgive herself for not discov-
erlng exactly what the cost would be before
yenturing. at is the last time / will ever
nave washing dress as long as i've" she
said. Yet these were nothing com pared TO
the cost OF 'idoipg Up" the dresses which are
masses OF delicately pIeated roffi IS, putii1g
and lace.
The dark blue cambrics, which are a sort
OF rage OF the season, are a delaslon aud
on white underwear, on neck, arms, every
tnlng IL touches. The soft finished French
percales are only not quite so bad in this re-
spect as the common English and American
the nuisance, and they "wrinklen In the
most deplorable way. There is one thing to
be said, however; they look as old in twenty
first agony is over there Is no repetition of
1t. The only dark blue which does not
"crack" In the least, and the only colored
CObiOn SOOus winch are really desirable are
the hne plain and checked Scotch ginghams.
can remember when very good Scotch ging-
hams sold for Is cents per yard; now they
are brought out as something new, and sold
for forty-dve, and, by the time ten dollars
has been paid for making them, sum up
with comparatively expensive dress. Fab-
RIGS and manufactured garments are said to
be very low this season, but this is only true
of certain overstocked or unfashionable
styles.
CANVASS SILKS,
very rich class OF goods, were heavily i'm.
ported as novelties last season, and expected
TO take" with rush here. They were soft,
thick open meshed silk, In ecru shades,
usually barred with the same tint and cross
cd oy hair stripe of brown, or blue, OF
black, or even cardinal red, and white. They
were 10 De worn over rich silk
costume already complete in itself, aud
were 10 afford the opportunity for
striking effect in the way of dashes of
color, corresponding to the bright lines In
troduced into the fabric. All this was very
well; the idea was good; 1t showed genius,
and was most charming when well worked
ont, but the cost OF canvass silk was from
81 90 TO $500 per yard. 1t required q cos. ly
trimming OF fringe, or lace; il needed max
ing and draping by an expensive modesto; 1t
must, above all, be worn over q handsome
and harmonious underdress, for 1t was only
the yelling TO the dress-not the dress itself.
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