, 1876-11-05


Special Correspondence Of The Tribune.
New YORK, Nov. at is no wonder gentle
men complain that they cannot understand the
vaciliations OF fashion. Tt is something beyond
even feminine comprehension. Now that at
last every well-minded female has cheated or
cajo1ed father OF husband into purchasing seal
skin sacquc, she awakes to the overwhelming
fact that fashion vetoes that elegant garment
But, to compensate for this terrible loss, she
offers all sorts Of charming wraps, and never
have the cold days found us with greater or
more handsome projections than are the Gle
CANT long c1oaks, OF these I think I have
spoken; but they are not the only wraps; there
is very great variety. The new
dolmans, and other garments belonging TO
this family, are especially handsome. They hare
q recommendation in the large, loose sleeve,
which offers abundant opportunity for fancy
stuff, Innings, and other. 'elaborations Of lace,
fur, feathers, etc. Close-Waddcd sleeves arc
made to wear under the ample, flowing drapery,
and the wind is licensed to blow the latter back
at its OWN sweet will In order to reveal the half
hidden decorations. On account Of being so
easily worn over elaborate dresses and garni-
lures, the dolman is deseryedlY favorite for
IN evening wrap in full dress. Some exceed
ingly handsome ones Of elegant fabrics and
light colors are shown. The heavy woolen
AoA
SO fine in texture, and 50 beautiful in the woven
patterns. that but little in the way Of
trimming is required. Some OF the most ele-
giant imported ones are absolutely without any,
unless we reckon as such the buttons and loops,
OF agratfes, OF silver, gold, or Jet. The thick
beavers are exceedingly beautiful, having
soft, Woolly underside, and the surface dlyers1-
fed By some handsome design, as t.Eills, checks.
basket patterns, quadrilless, etc. Garments Of
this material require no lining: Suits are de-
cidedly passe, and cloaks and dolmans OF wolf
and gray cloths are considered most appropriate
for elaborate toiletJes. These, from their na-
ture, admit Of profuse decoration, and for this
ruches of silk, cmbroidcries, feathers, and fur
are employed. SILK and cashmere b1aids
are also much used in trimming them. a hand
some garniture, to be used as q heading to
silk fringe, consists of silk pipings with silk or
crochet nau-heads ranged between in regular
similar effect is produced By narrow braid aud
small buttons.
4 sHowT TRIMMING
results from the following arrangement: Four
perpendicular loops Of inch-wide silk braid -, de-
pend from horizontal bar Of the same. This
is studded with four small buttons, SILK or
crochet. This disposition Of the braid is repeat
: cd up the entire front on both sides, and also
around the bottom Ct the sacque. Ihs g. sleeves e'
ee nrs @laFy saaFt pdRe a@sd Outlined ina ts N sns
same manner. An unaffected but rich
and pleasing decoration is obtained by placing
three large passementeric buttons in pcrpcndcu-
lar rows, with regular spaces intervening. Ia,ls
while two rows up the front bold in place the
cords which fasten the cloak. Misses cloaks
differ but little from those OF their mammas,
and cloth and Worstcd materials, both cheap anu
fur is employed as trimming for these little gar
mcnts, it has been decided that young tox or
coney is the most appropriate. Graduated
widths Of plain ga]loon, very narrow tringes,
small passemcnteric ornaments are usnane ,;a!3s
sacque is halftight, fitting, and has
the skirt portion in the back divided Just back
of the hips and in the middle, while each
piece is turned back in reyers. a deep ian
pleating is inserted in each opening, ano nares
Slightly towards the bottom. For little " bits
OF girls beautiful ruddy cardinal cloth is i'm
ported. It makes very elegant garment when
trimmed with bands of fur, silk, OF velvet, and
with cuffs aud collar Of the same.
IN SELECTING DRESS MATERIALS,
ladies now do SO with an eye to contrasts aud
combination. The same shades still continue
fashionable; and black, though always stand
ard color, is comparatively little worn. Among
new materials is a novelty known as orocaueo
velours, and like all goods of this class, will be
used chiefly for oyerdresscs and other drapcrics.
It combines we'll with plain silks and vel
vet, or any woolen goods, and CANNOT
fail to become popular on account o1 IT'S rea-
sonable price, costing less than medium quaity
rich and elegant, but it is i'll adapted for any
use where strain will be put upon it, as in
waists, ETC., as it frays eosily.. Another de-
sirablc fabric is camel's- Wgogne, Wnlcn
closely resembles fine pressed opera flannel, QUE
which in realit; has q twilled surface. On ae-
count Of its breadth, fogtJeight inches: It IS u
great demand for polonases aud oTerskrts: s,.i1 It
may be procured for the same price as pam
cashmere, and is double its width. It drapes
exceedingly wcll. For combination with velvet
and silk, invisible platds in myrtle-green, navy
blue, and mixed gray are Tery effective. taese
e1nbonpoint, as they are generally but an inch
square, and are very indlstinct, as their name
indicates.
Ladies' who must plrchasefor growing dangh-
teys as well rs for themselves may hnd under
the name Of Il suitings " a variety Of goods
which seem for their special accommodation;
Many Of them are quite pretty and 5tyhsh, and
the maximum price seldom exceeos ~ cen1s a
stuff which recommends itself as SCHOOL dress
Is Scotch YinseY. q cheap material resembling