, 1876-11-20
pAuNE.MANUFACTURE.

ClAMfAVNEsGlANUF ClUtEs
Tlma-1Iow tho Sediment IA Cotton I,id OF
Tho swcctunInK Process This Years
Vintage.
A correspondent OF tho London Telegraph
writes from Re.ins: "Tllo pruprlctors Of tho
PontncFy champagne ma,ufactory wcrc lucky
enough 10 possess themselves, some years
ago, Of a deserted cl,alk-quarry, and
out 0f this have bcrn constructed, with
very slight additions aud Notifications,
some Of the 1ncst-if not the very finest
cellars ~ tho champagne district. These arc
have been pti. In this instance, for gcolo.s!sts
tell ono thnt In the very sclfsanic wave o, chalk
the submarine tuni,eI between England and
France will ono day be made. The easc With
modelled, tho so!Idity of their appearance, md
their kin'iIy dIspositlon to the tontact md as
ss.tAnce Of brick supports, may well inspire tho
talented engineers q both countries with new
hope md courage. II must 1c remembered tliat
storage roo,ns+ Thu Juice OF tic grippe GENES
10 him In barrels; It leaves him uftor mn clah-
oratc process of manufacture In bottles, and
market. Th1s delicate " Inc docs not require
cellars In tho ordinary AMI ncccpte1 uae oI the
term alone. Tiny must be deep; they must be
tnncious; they must be capable of maintaining
WVpcl pC1aLti1Ct A!C1 IluSt llDt LIZ ClikluHs
ed. cabinea, Or confined, but !or,lly, vast, and.
before ali things high So thanks to charae-
tcrlssic energy an1 o liberal supply Of capital,
the water Sas finally pumped out os the abau-
the arches were shorcu up tho ilaws and faults
In tho chalk were patched. the floors wcrc simply
Generated. and now rs they stand the Pommcry
cascs arc the best possible example OF the enter
could be found for showing &c general proccss
lly which grape Juice is made into champagne.
When NC have done atlfnlrlng the garden and
the decorative tlevlees of tho outer ornamental
admit Lord Mayors show, banners. men IN
armor, and all, and tic visitor to tic PomtncrJ
caves Is introduced to tho first cellar. Although
this Is on what may bc called the ground floor,
spaec ls dcIciously cool. 1t is,, In fact, vast
llnll; tho burning sun is carefully kept out; tho
Temperature Is Jcalouslyrcgulatedi tllcwindows
arc high md small, and there is sense
OF auy shudderinE chill. At the extreme
end Of the hall arc The Offices and tho visitors
waittns-roons, but tllcy occupy but very little
of the main stacc, which ts devoted to tile bar
process OF fermentation before they are carried
10 lower depth, md the bottllng commences
for the year. Into this rlaco the saaks Of tuice
arc brought straight from the presses fn the
0uiltthu!l Of Champagne. stands the mighty vat
or cttte in which the various kinds are asnn1gn-
mattel md tic wine Of ,cvery year is made.
have. enticavorca before to hint at
cnnmpagnc; but let it now once moro
be understood that tho wine IS not the
growth Of one district, hut the product Of many,
aud that the difficulty Of the whole business Is
vineyard Of Ay, llttlo less Vcrzcnay, dash Of
llouzy, a suspicion of Cra1nont, tlIilnblcful OF
Alailly, and SO champagne Is Nude. There arc
| those among ls who pride ourselves on the
Of n,Me: is terribly eonceited on the subject Of
| the high nrt Of salad-inIxinE. Bit think Of
tho delicaev OF taste required fl this oaaufac-
ture, involving the reputation Of great house,
| This Is tasting wltll vengeance when the
1 practtcca palate can say long before tho
fermentation Is complete that tho liquor In
the mighty tun or yat or cute is t to be bottled,
that The cNre satisiactorily allei, thu cla6ora-
| tlon of champagne has scarcely commenced.
file bossliug takes place IN the sprlng.ti'ne, that
Is to say. th!s yoat's yInsagc, which with ny
| which hayc tasted in It's cloy!ng and eaecha-
rnc state before golng into tho casls, viii not
bo sufficiently fcrtncntcd and ft for the e,,ss
until the spring Of 1917. Once the wine Inns
| corketl roughly. md strapped a6out with
| a stout r1ll ltsnturc. Tho WING las fer
1ncntel in the cask, and will continue to do So
Evgry single one ont Of these millions Of bottles
\ VI III tHClA ElCpAAto1J 9kAkSt Aust
necessarily coutain thick muddy dcposlt, and
the art from this point Is to coaEulato tho scli-
ment, to twist II and turn 1t until 1t FORMS into
ball, and eventually to get It up to thc top Of
| the bottle, 80 TINT 1t tnay be expelled With a
bnng when tho temporary cork Il taken out and
| tho proper one is adjusted. This grudual CO.
ayulatlo7 and expulsion Of tic sediment Is what
may be called tho conjurlne trick Of champagne
| milking. You Will Imagine, Of COURSE. that the
| bottles already placed in rack are allowed to
| settle md then subjected to d process
VI gentle turning by machinery, Not
BIT q T.. Every steclo one that Is
| hand. No more delicate and gradual motion
thnn this can be discovered. Think Of the labor
of this process. 1t is the duty Of one person to
! 20 runnd tho cellars, cayc after cave, and bin
after bin, md to give every bottle Ec,ltlo
wEigglc, tho turn OF yesterday lllring been nc
| c,,ratcly marked nt the foot In chalk. ! asked
In a.1azemcnt II tho indtridunl to whom this
hideousy-monntonous task was intrustctl wus
tho brain. Dazed as was With these lnut-
tttu.iinous piles, 1naryeled how any onr could
bo found t0 undertake tho tAsk without some
relief; hut my accomplished guide, NJ. Vaanler.
in this celebrated tlrln, satisfied my scTuplcs
bv showing Inc the twiscr-iil-cei, and assuring
inc TINT. fur irDm being mad, hc WIS particular
ly fonl Of lis duty, Which ,o llaa never left for
and jealous OF tho slightest interference: In
fact, ho took n pride In tho ambitions OF hls
1 children, lie Erleveu when rapid fermentation
| smashed one of them into fragments, aud Eo
cnulu un'y 10 consolcd for tho departure Of
twisted and perfect bottles by the knowledge Of
tho approach of 'Rnliv more cloudy sctlltncn,e.,
untwls.rd, ard t,nporfcct tYrus. il process of
tlnlo, anl witt much genslu handling, tho svdi-
mcnt gradually aaeendel to tho tup Ut the
battle, and settlcs st tho Gase Ut
| the cork. 0nco firmly established t!ierc,
l. y ,exrel!e., cork aid all WIN pop
it, sediment, clear MS q bell, mud, doubtless, as
many will thiuk, III to be property eorked again
aud packed fur rxportatlab. but even yet tho
vital moment has not arrtyGd. 1t Is ever. too
dry at this moment for EuElIsl. palatcs, and now
comes tho ttmo when the swcctentnE lllucur.
composed OF snany good things Is uaicd TO the
manufactured wfne English ciampaGnc-or
rather, not to be nisunueFstood. cllmnpngnc for
tlid Enslisl, narket-rcqutrcs very little Of this
fnrcign ingredients snail percentage: Ger
.nauy takcs !ts champagne very swret, In
deed, mid both lsussia and Franco
moderately 70. All this requires care
antl Judgment; but when "a mud. liquor has
been aided % IL Judged sufficient for eayl. mar