The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-07-12
SECRETS OF TIE LATEST FASHIONS.
wopep's Ciothe. Made to Fm CLOSER than



nom scrt6nsrs Monthly.
A Partisan lady is not said to be dressed
nowadays, nor does she even order a dress to be
made for her. She asks her dressm,ker to
mould a dress upon her, and. when this Is done,
10 be moulded, you must begin by adapting
and size prescribed BY fashion. Therein lies The
only secret Of perfection In dress which the
Pdrtsienne possesses over other women. Next
to the Pdftstsnnc II Is the American woman who
Ia considered to be the best dressed" She has
one fault. however-she Is not always juponne
according to the requirements Of her toilet
As rule. each dress should have its separate
set Of skirts, to be worn exclusively with t. and
this should be supplied by the dressmsker her
length and width as the skirt OF the dress, and
always OF the same shape. Now two under
accompanies the dress, and which ia of white
muslin, Ia trimmed with lace insertions aud
euRnRs. No hounces are worn on undsrskirts.
dress.
The skirt to be worn under this muslin skirt
~ u white foulard, which material clings better
than any other to the figure. And the skirt
(which IL gored, so as not to form a single plato
Is stitoi ed to the edge Of the corset In order to
leave the figure perfectly untfammelled by band
or belt however thin. The skirt Is also trim NJ ed
with lace Insertion and edgins. The corset Ia
very long-d " jeanne dArc. As a guide, 1t
should be OF the length Of the dress culrasse,
which cuirasse, by the by, Is now only simulated
by trimming on the dress. This, again, Is to
avoid giving extra size to the nRure.
Some dispense with the second skirt Of white
silk they wear an undersarment OF white silk
under the corset. when garment they trim with
lace. ns " It were a skirt. 1t Ia made No long az
an ordinary skirt. and II takes the place OF one.
In reality, therefore, no skirts are worn by the
most strict.
To recspitulate, a fashionable Iadv's toilet now
consists OF white silk bodice iniaid with
Nalenclennes, which white silk bodice Ia oon-
tinuod into skirt, which Is also richly trimmed
with lace insertions and edeing. This garment
answers Two purposes and Is called by two
names. Then comes the long cuirasse corset Of
white or pink satin, which improves the entire
nRure. An extra white foulard skirt may De
stitched to the edge OF the corset, but this 10 not
necessary. 1t should, however. be worn under
costumes not provided with a special under
SKIRT OF their own. The dress itself, OF what.
ever material IL may be- Is Of the Princess ape
that u.s. IN one piece from neck to hem OF skirt
Ihe Trimming on the dress Stimulates cuirasss
ana even tunic. hut separate cuirasses or tunics
arc quite laid aside, as being too bulky, and
hiding the outlines Of the figure too much. 1t
thus follows that nothing IL worn under a dress
body excepting the under corset. bad, indeed,
must be the ngure that does not look moulded
under this system % underclothing. You may
wear cotton dress Of i've dollars, II you will,
put under THIS must be worn the finest foulards
and the richest lace.
Nor IA IL the drcssmaker who can make the
ngure: This depends entirely on the corset
manufacturer There Is even a talk Of having
dress cuirasses made by corset tn ak ers and The
skirts would then be fastened to th. corset
which would at the same time form the body VI
the dress.
LONDON. June 29.-Last Tuesday over fifteen
thousand persons were assembled at Lords to
witness a game at cricket. the annual match be-
tween oxford aud Cambridge, In which oxford
came very decidedly out at the little end Of the
norm. doubt whether the ladies' took much
interest In the game, but they must have found
enough to admire In each Others pull back"
dresses which are certainly calculated to startle
the unregenefate male mlnd. some OF these
dresses are now pulled back to that degree that
sitting down IN them must Oe simply i'm possible.
As the English woman Is seldom constructed on
"A very slight or fragile scale, the effect OF Goa
tune which reveals the outline Of the whole
figure Is calculated to considerably astonish
weak nerves. | saw a couple of young girls COM
ing gu, Of the Royal Academy to day. and at
nrst really thought that a brace Of statues had
been endowed with motion, and had walked
down rom their pc iestals into the street. For
tue dresses were OF a very light and eauzy ma
terlal and the pull back was simply stipend Gus,
aDd-but perhaps had better not enter any fur.
Their into the subject for some people are rather
particular and they might not ike 1t. may go
so Tar as to say that the streets Of London the
fashionable evening parties. seldom presented
more to interest the curious eye than they do at
present. should be afraid to describe an even
Ing dress which l saw the other might; you
might say that my letters had been condemned
as improper and that YOU had lost several SUB
scribers IN consequence. II the next change in
fashion Is not IN a totally different direction,
artists will not ind II necessary to go to tho
-tstuary IN the British Museum, or elsew here, to
study the human form divine.