Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-08-31
Walks in the White Mountains.
No. 3.
Editorial Correspondence of The Star ]
PROFILE HOUSE,

PROFILE House,
FRANCorIA MOUNTAINS, Aug. q, 1876.
Shouldering our satchels and adjusting
our overcoats FUSED on Mount Washington,
In shawl straps, for easy nd-carriage, we
left the Glen House about p. M. on our walk
through PiDkhsm Notch To North Conway.
Our road was first up the Peabody Glen, and
We turned aside from the highway at the
proper places TO visit the Glen Ellis aud
Cry stall falls, but the low water from the
droulh has diminished the interest OF these
side shows; and as the black files were par
ticulsrly active and ferocious In that neigh
bolhOod we did not pause long Striking the
brow of Spruce Hill, our road began long
and pretty rapid descent down the course O.
Ellis river. Half way down the mill we met
procession of carriages, AMI fifty or more
Young men who were dressed In bright REQ
hannel shirts fancifuily embroidered, ADD
who looked like fire brigade swarning up
these heights to put ont some OF the many
nres now running through the mount aims
They said they were q social club OF BpStol
going TO see the mountains Most OF them
were walking UP the hill, aud many OF them
IN passing stopped 10 mop tue persptratiou
rom snelr races anu lnqnlre II they were
near the top. They seemei 10 want To maze
sure they had not got off the road, q nj were
scaling Mount Washington by mistake
in these parts. Still following the E lis river
closely we descended to the denseIy wooded
valley, getting iue views now and thee OF
Eagle Mountains TO the left maintained a
soInbre wall.
AS THE SHADOWS LENGrHENED
across the valley our tormeutors, the black
flies, left US, and we could pause to look
without Immediately becoming the centre O;
a circling myriad of these pests. Our stop
ping place for the night was TO be Jackson.
Thirteen miles IRON tue Glen House, aud a.
We approached 1t In the dusk, a little uucer-
tain at which OF two or three houses We
should stay, the bright, hospitable lights
from the Glen Ellis House streaming across
our dusty path settled 1t. We were well
treated there, and the charges were mo1er-
ATE; Two dollars, each, for supper, lodging
and breakfast.
JACKSON
ranks as one of the inner glens from which
particularly fine grouping OF the main
peaks OF the White Mountains Is obtained
and several small hotels and boarding-h houses
have been built here. The guide books say
that good trout fishing Is to be found here
but to an enquiry on that point one of the
natives rather dryly answered that he
guessed that while the hotel people were
paying So cents pound for trout, the streams
were likely TO be pretty well fished.
In the morning we resumed our walk to
North Conway (elght miles from Jackson),
the road at first presenting views OF Tnorn,
kiarsarge, and other immediate mountains,
and presently opening out upon tue ever
charming Saco valley, and thence taking
course along the plateau overlooking the
Saco intervales past succession of pleas.
antly. situated hotel boarding-houses.
OFF FOR THE FRANCoNIA RANGE.
Friday was occupied In going over some o.
the varied walks OF interest In the vicinity
of North Conway, and Saturday afternoon
we went by rail up the Crawford Notch to
Fabyans, or rather to the "Mount PIeacan,
Houses new hotel near Fabyan's, man.
aged by Alvin Peavy, for many years con-
nected with Willaro's, In Washington. The
hou g IL OF moderate size, Is well kept, and
the rates down 70 ante war times, or from 81
To IS per day. TIE guests were OF the oest
class-college professors and others-and
hotels OF this sty lie seem to be Just tue tn 'ng
| TO sui the needs of large number OF peopl-
OF thought and Culture wno want TO eJjoy the
mountain scenery and mountain air, but
cannot Afford TO pay shoddy prices. Tue
| nres ranging In the mountain districts ha ]
got possession OF large tract in front OF the
| Mount Pleasant House, aud at nights d very
| striking spectacle was presented 10 this
| "burnt district" The fir snoIderiug In tle
tdrf and soil, developed Ia bright b.aZe at
| every stump OF thousands scattered over the
| large area Invaded, and tnsre was sariicieut
| regularity in these spots OF flame 10 give the
| whole the appearance OF the lights OF q
| great city or OF night encampment
| BEECRFR AT THE TWIN MOUNTAIN HOUSE,
We staid here over Sunday, going up on
that day TO hear Beecher preach at the Twin
Mountain House, five miles from the Mt.
L
| been run this year to the Twin Mountain
House on Sunday, but quite q number of
coaches from neighboring mountain hotels,
and farmers wagons were depositing their
loads at that hotel as we reached 1t; and on
entering the hall stoutish gentleman OF the
house was seen occupying the passage lead
Ing to the parlors, and calling upon those
| the house were seated" This done, the out
| sfders were admitted to the back seats aud
| the large rooms were speedily filled, and
| aIile = number were g!sd to avail them
| The big tent used last year, for Beecnsr's
preaching, was up In front OF the hOtsl, with
2 nag lying over 1t after the style of circus
tent, but for some unexplained cause-per-
| haps because the weather was cool and
| threatening ratn-was not us d. There seems
l TO be some division OF couusels as to whether
| the tent shall be used at all this year or,
what Is the same thug, whether there shall
| be excursion traius, for If no Sunday traius
size TO make any show under the big can
vas. The Sunday excursion business was so
holly denounced last year by q portion OF the
| religious press that Beecher Is said to be dis.
tnclined To favor 1t this season, though he
| preached IN its defence last year. Toe Twin
| Mountain House probably makes more
\ people who would slip Up on these trains t.
| hear Beecher, and of again without les wing
4 aGy money In the hotel treasury, now 60 up
| Saturday and stay there over sunday TO
hear him. In this way every sermon OF
| Beecher's is said TO be worth a thousand dol
| lsrs TO the house. This Is not fmpro1able.
| ar hotels as far away as North Con Wa y last
| year were In the habit of taking in a couple
| OF hundred dollars apiece In the way of din.
| ners and drinks C) during the half hour that
| the Sunday excursion train paused on Its
| return trip towards Portland. In Beecher's
| audience Sunday were Vice P. Candidate
Wheeler And Representative Hendee. Mrs.
Beecher entered the room before her hus-
band. The apparent disparity Of age be-
| tween them grows n ore marked every year.
| Last year she looked old enough to De his
| mother. This year, with her snowy hair,
colorless face, scanned with fine wrinkles,
and very old expression. she would
pass without much difficulty as his
grandmother. Beecher, on the other
hand, seems to have grown positively
0unger since last year. He Is ruddy, bright
and mirthful of eye, and his voice has all
| the ring and melody of his best days Toe
| slight but continuous vibration OF the head,
| indicating tncipient palsy, noticed when he
was In the pulpit last year, seems to have
| vanished, or at any rate was not Observable
from my seat. His sermon, or discourse,
| was upon repentance from the text Except
q man be born again" and was fntended To
show that the rev birth was not q couyuI
sive, instantaneous affair, but was q SLOW.
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