Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-07-15

beautiful stores there and a fine display
on goods made. In jewelers. windows and
pazasrs every kind OF ornamental ware
were specimens OF the most exquisite aud
arusuc wor knianship We saw anywhere ia
germany. The Eni de COAoae establish
rnents OF the Fsrina family go to make up
about half of the city. Johann Mearfa Fari.
mas ecramoltng signature on the bottles Is
said 10 Distinguish those which are truly
genuine. There are great many other 10.
ham Farinas, with every variety OF middle
name, who seem ~ make q very good arti-
Gle, too. We visited
THE GREAT UNFINISHED CATHEDRAL.
whose grandeur and magnifcence the most
graphic description can give no idea OF. IL
is not the elegance OF interior decoration or
fresco work, tine paintings, or rich old win
COWS, but the nobleness OF architecture
throughout the whole structure that make
II seem place not made by human hands.
The name OF the architect who planned IL
centuries ago has been lost 10 the world and
TO one can estimate when his sublime idea
will be fully carried out, for much OF the
work which for the last thirty-five years has
been going on steadily, has been devoted 10
repairing the old parts and restoring images.
For such an immense edifce the absence OF
thatheavy massiveness SO characteristic OF
large structures Is truly wonderful. The
slender columns and iDnumerable tiny
spires give IL an air OF Hghtness aud most
artistic beauty.
THE KAISER.
although not Catholic contributes largely
every year TO The building. When we were
there he had just presented IL with an i'm
mense bell weighing hfty thousand pounds
III stsDds twelve feet high, ami was cast
nom French guns captured In the war. Ia
ote or The eau dc cologne establishments we
saw model OF the cathedral about SIX feet
high. 1t was made by q Frenchmau, who
was eight years constantly at work on 10,
aIu has not omitted The smallest detail IN
the architecture, even representing the five
thousand tiny spires with the greatest exact
less.
OVER THE RHINE.
In the evening we crossed the Rhine, by
bridge 10 Dentz, on the opposite shore, and
visited concert garden situated along the
waters edge. 1 recall every detail in the
scene spread out before us as we sat listen
ing 10 the music-the overhanging trees OF
The garden and the long line OF gas Jets, which
The fresh breeze from the river blew into
one continuous flame: the noisy hilarity OF a
party OF ofhcers, and the scraping sound of
the promenaders on the graveIed walks; aud
then, beyond all the hub0ub and gayety, the
DARK river and long vista of lights across the
bridges, the colored lanterns on the fishing
boats that cleaned out from under the black
shadow OF the wharves, and Cologne, with
tslofty houses and many spires, from which
came deep and solemn the striking of the
hour.
1t always rains in Cologne. That is as
sure an item on the programme OF every
traveller as a visit TO the Cathedral. So we
accepted IL as matter OF course that we had
10 leave the place in dreDching rain storm.
The steamerwe took for Coblenz was very
small. There was no shelter on deck, the
water was pouring off the green painted
tables and benches in streams. so we had To
content ourselves in the low ceilinged Gavin.
The prospect without was dishesrtening
enough, and sad looking priest was our
Only fellow, passenger; he was studying an
curing way he occasionally glanced up
from his book at US 1t was evident he
r Mas 'Ty1ng %l,n III saseess to t our
the rules he was studying. A party of
young Englishmen soon came aboard and
Sat down TO dine at one end OF the cabin.
Their drenched clothing, Disguised counte-
nances and the silence that prevailed among
them III went TO tell OF the uufavorable i'm
preston the river had made upon them. A
remark now and then as TO the "beastly''
state of the weather would cause the puz-
zled priest to look more perplexed than ever
over the strange application OF words In our
language. A party OF students picked up at
Bonn, whose college boys are noted for their
gay spirits, burs: in upon the quiet little
cabin like whirlwind. There was no more
dignity while they remained, for their con-
versation and antics were so irresistably
funny that even the cross Englishmen and
melancholy priest laughed outright, to say
nothing of our own Hercnlean efforts TO gaze
TRANQUILITY out of the windows.
CoBLKNz.
Nine O'Clock in the evening saw US on the
wharf at Coblenz. The rain was falling in
torrents and the blurred, misty light from
the river lamps only served TO make the
darkness more intense. 1t was but few
steps TO the hotel, and while going there the
quick tread of couple of officers, followed
by the tramp OF a body OF men, made US real
iZe directly that we were In one OF the great
est fortified cities Of Europe. This fact
was impressed upon US q little more than
was agreeable before we finished CoblenZ
for ii rained numerically two whole days,
and there was nothing to do but dnd amuse-
ment in gazing out OF the windows al the
military. Directly facing us across the
river the noble fortress OF Ehrenbreitstein
crowned rocky height The mountain
crowded win horsemen and Infantry con-
Unuously. From the foot OF the slope to
within few yards of the hotel entrance ex-
tended drawbridge. The constant passage
bridge moving in and out, so there were
lively scenes among the crowds OF SOL
oilers and market women when they all had
TO wait. The gate-tender would allow the
soldiers to leap over the low railing and rush
across the door as It would go rapidly out
with the current, but whenever the market
f-ous, with immense baskets on the head
would essay this feat, they were rammed
back into the crowd again with more
energy than they seemed to relish. This
thing at Coolenz. The Notifications
are very fine but dreadfully tiresome
to every one not especially interested in
point where 1.-The Meeting OF the Waters"
lends such poetic interest to the spot.
whether from incompatibility OF temper, or
Nbdt etldbsC dJucT 8nU
Mother Moselle keep distinctly apart In
spite OF the union. For a long distance you
can see them running side by stakeholder
Moselle rather yellow and Father Rhine
very blue.
A short distance from Coblenz, on a rocky
height, directly overlooking the river, is the
beautiful castle OF StolZenfels, summer
residence where the Empress Augusta spends
much of her time. At Lahneck, nearly op-
posite, we took the train for Ems. A short
ride through a mountainous country, aud
We paused before a little depot, over whose
doors was painted
"BAp EMS"
The KaisS6 was there. SO the place was at
the height of it's summer gayety. The week
before there had been a meeting OF the en-
perors, and the fact that Ems was again this
year chosen as place of meeting bet ween
Kaiser Wilhelm aud the Car of Russia In
vests the little spot with a great deal of in
terest. Picture narrow strip of river, with
a smooth, lake ike surface dividing lofty
mountains down whose wooded slope the
hickeriDg light and shadow throw so many
changes; the hotels, baZaars, X urhaus, and
beautiful river p-omenades and gardens all
on one side OF the stream and at the foot OF the
woods on the other conveyances ana atient
little donkeys, with picturesque trappings,
TO carry pleasure parties up Tn winding
pathways, and you have r0ugh Idea of