The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1876-05-04
Corset Basque, with Burnous Over.
H. 49,. Skirt. 70 -

The corset basque extends smoothly
over the hips, and is gracefully<cprvedo on
the lower edge. The back has the long
side forms that extend from the shoulder
seam, and give the long wasted appear
ance now considered stylish. Just at the
waist Iineof the Two middle .fnrnis of the
back is fan cluster of side pleats of silk.
These pleats may be set on or let in, as
the wearer pleases. II the lower part of
the basque is cut out and the pleats arc
inserted, there should be two or three
bands Of elastic ribbon placed across un-
derpeath to keep the pleating from tiaring
open too widely. The front has two short
darts, and the edge is finished with pip
ing. The neck has Byron collar ofsiik
and bow. The trimming of the basque
is lengthwise bands of silk in brctellc
shape. which also contributes to the ar
pearance of slenderness and length,
waist. The sleeves. are of silk, with
square cuff Of the wooden goods.
The burnous overskirt has long wrink-
led apron, trimmed with bows down the
middle and two bias bands of silk. There
Is usually seam down the middle Of this
apron-a thing that would not have been
permitted in the costumes of few wears
ago. If the fabric used is very wide, such
III
sible to make the entire apron of one wide
breadth by joining small pieces on the
sides, but for goods Of ordinary width the
better plan is that of having a separate
front gore, with a wide gore on each side.
The pleating that gathers up the fullness
must extend very far back on the sides.
and begin quite low down. The wide
back drapery forms long soft puff that
is finished off at the top by hanging
point that reminds one Of the graceful
hoods worn on Arab mantles, and gives
the title OF burnOus to the over-skirt This
back breadth Is single straight width
of wide goods, or two Of narrower mate
rial; it is gathered in down each side to
the apron, and the long hanging top is
trimmed all around with bias silk
band. The bottom of the overskirt is
trimmed with box-pleated frill of the
wooden goods, Gu: straight and raveled On
each edge to form fringe. This fringing,
however, will not look we'll except on
heavy twilled fabrics, as thin fabrics arc
too light, and need either an added fringe,
or else should be merely hemmed. The
parasol pocket is suspended by ribbons
from underneath the basque, as the
wrinkled skirt will not allow it 10, be
sewed on smoothly. 1t is quite broad at
the top, showing the silk lining, and is
sloped away to point where bow finishes
it. Its name is given from its resemblance
to parasol when closed. tits sometimes
very prettily made of small fine side pleats,
to match the cluster in the back of the
basque The lower skirt is of silk, with
trimming of silk and of the checked WOOL
The reader is advised that this dress
need not be made of two materials, as it
looks exceedingly well made up of sim
gle fabric; at least the skirt and sleeves
may very we'll be of the material OF the
dress, though the costume will be more
effective if trimmed with a darker shade
OF bows and bands. Thus, plaid summer
silks look best with selid.colored trim
mings; light brown debeges and other
wool stutfs may have the. same material of
darker shade for the accessories. Solid
colored silks are preferred when only one
kind is used. Black Mexicaine grena-
dimes are being made by this pattern, as
the fullness of the overskirt is desirable
for thin goods. These have a silk lower
skirt, with grenadine founces that cover
it in all the parts not concealed by the
upper skirt. The trimming for grenadine
upper skirts is Spanish lace in two or
three full rows. The corset basque is the
grenadine@ over a silk lining, trimmed
with lace. Ecru Mexicaine over dark
brown silk is handsomely made up in this
tashlon.-Harper's Bazar.