Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1876-09-03
FALL FASHIONS.
What Jennie June Knows About Them
How Dresses and Wraps are
Made Up-COIOrs that Will
be in Vogue.
Combinations Have Come 10 an End-
Long waists still 'n FaVor-Shep-
herds Check POpuisr-COI-
lars and Cuffs, Etc.
Louisville Courier-JournalI

There Is nothing cheap just now Out coe-
tons and the remnants OF last sum mer's
stock. and then It is only the unstable
and ephemersl styles, goods tnat cannon
be SAFELY carried over. "StanuStos are
not reduced las the phrase lsJ one lota.
The advance guard OF the wooden laorlcs
prepared for fall and winter, consist OF
the plain and twiled belges, Wnlcn make
their appearance in force IN shaues Oh
brown and gray. Then there are the
ssrges, which belong 70 the same ian-
lily, but are heavier. SeTges nave. also
wider range Of colors; ciaret, darK piue,
bottle green and solid butternut.Dro"n
can be found in serge, while beige, loT
which special preparation OF the yarn
Ia Teouired. never makes its appearance
hut in mixed shades of gray Snd brown,
Iightened by the invisible presence OF
white, Beige and serge, especially the
HNunsu or Carmelite serge, are excel,
lent standard materials, however, anu
are yery useful, not only for the inter-
mediate seasons, but for general costume
PURPOSES that require service, ana are
better for their neatness and simplicity.
The most suitable method OF making
ia to employ the material only Tor tne
BODY part of the suit, and mix SELF
coloIed elk In the mounting ana trlm-
ming: as for example: for piping, DoWs,
lining of collars, cuffs and the IKE.
HPipinQ'' now means narrow nat,
doubled folds, introduced as an edge,
without the addition of cord, when
soon wears through the goods, and ls,
therefore, not desirable
SILK AND SILK COSTUMES.
A very active movement has been in
timated, having for its object an advance
In the price of silks, and it will no
doubt, speculative though it is (tor 1t Is
'impossibIe to gauge the value OF the
silk crop at present), have the effect OF
making o black silk dress, that lndls-
peusabIe part of lady's wardrobe, cost
from five to twenty-five dollars more
this fall than it did last spring. silks,
II is said, have been too low, and the
indications of falling off in the crop,
slight though they may be, are gladly
seized as q basis for an upward move
ment. which will at once advance the
price. and ssstartU trade, for, strange as
If NAV seem, when prices are going up
everybody rushes inssnely to buy, just
as when prices are running down every
bodv PUSHES idiotically to sell. The new
silks are iu dark self colOrs, pun,
clsret, indigo blue, sesl-broWn and
black, which are always the most In
demand.
For overdresses, instead Of the damask
and brocades used SO much for two years
past. there are silk and wooden armures,
and small solid wooden checks, which
are selected of precisely the same shade.
The sleeves may be silk with woolan
cuffs, but it is less fashionable Than
formerly to have sleeves differ from the
body part of the garment for street
wear, though they are still employed
aud may be worn with perfect propr1ety
if preferred. THESE little solid cheeks
in Wool are much more elegant than the
WoSieHn f GamasB. That Class of goods ia
only really distingNe when 1t is silk,
very rich in quality, and placed in con-
junction with all the requirements for
an elaborate and costly toilet.
SILK AND VELVET.
There is nothing finer in fabric than
the combination OF silk and velvet. Pom
sons velvet is the best, of course; it is
clear, fine, wide, all silk, and has not
been affected, SO far as the price Is con-
cerned, by speculative movement in
silks. 1t still sells at retail for about
thirteen dollars per yard. Handsome
standard fabrics of this description are
better purchased early, for they are only
imported in small quantities, and when
the wide widths have all been disposed
of, importers fall back on the marrow
widths to supply what is lacking in par
ticularly fashionable shades, and these
narrow widths are neither so perfect in
quality nor 30 good for the price, nor do
they cut to such advantage as the wide
goods,
The colors are of course made to match
the silks; they are black, sesl-brown, in
digo blue, cl8ret and invisible green,
and the combination OF the two. Rich
fabrics in the solid color are more effect
i've than anything more fanciful could
possibly be for street and visiting pur-
poses. All persons cannot, however, af-
ford the richest silks or the richest vel
vet, and to suit the more limited purses
Of the masses many experiments have
been made Of late yeals in order to dis
cover the best mtans OF supplying a
good, well-weariDg trimming" velvet
ct small cost. Silk-faced velvets, with
cotton backs, are what are. usually
known as trimming" velvets, but
there is great difference between even
these.
The best are made in France upon
hand. looms, like the all-silk velvets,
the pure silk fabrics that only an expert
could detect the difference without look.
ing at the back. Another class are the
German machine.made veivets, which
have q silk face, but are inside III two
pieces st once, face to face, and cut
through by machinery, so that the sur
face is more opep, and "breaks" upon
folding it over or pulling it apart. Trim
ming velvets are made in cOlOTs nearly
as oe as the real Lyons, and cost from
two to six dollars a yard, according to
width, and whether machine OF hand
made. The difference in the combina-
ton of suits this year seems to be that
the two fabrics are more mixed In the
formation of the different parts. List
year for example, the undeIskirts and
sleeves were Of plain silk, or wool, the
bodice and tunic of checked wool, da-
mass or velvet. This season the body
part OF the entire costume is more fire.
quently of silk. or wool, and the TRIM
ming wholly or in part composed OF vel.
vet, silk or aTmure, which rivals dam.
mask, and indeed is more used in con.
junction with plain fail 9 for street
dresses.
SHEPHERDS CHECK.
These we'll known materials are as
standard in their way and as useful SIS
''nuns'n serge. They never really go
out of fashion, but still occasionally get
a little more than ordinary attention,
and that is the case at the present mo-
ment. In all wool, and well.made, they
are very pretty over black fcunced
skirts, but they are too commonly EN-.
ployed in conjunction with old black
silk, black alpacs, AID are copied in fer
too many inferior mixed fabrics to be
considered ''stylisb." Under any cir
shepherds' check is rarely
used for complete suit, except for chill
dren, but it can be made very effective
by trimming the lower skirt with nsr-
row, gathered fiounces, and the polo
naise with numerous narrow rows Of
braid and buttons. In fact, dress cf
this kind would be prettier, and have |
more the effect of novelty, than the reg |
ulatlon overdress with black skirt.
The recent adoption Of narrow braiGs |
aud small buttons necessitates the use |
of numerous rows of both. Three abreast |
is the Usual arrangement OF the latter |
down the front of basque, and the |
number Of rows OF the former upon the |
overskirt, cuff, etc is limited only by |
the taste and means Of the owner. A |
single row of very small buttons down |
the length of polonaise, or the present |
nj