, 1876-01-23

thu models Of the eotset-waists+ fitting with ex-
scf symmetry. made }engthNise. Lev waista
have elbow sleeves. but the tiny cap~slaevs Il
preferred By tnoss hav,nx beautiful arms.
Reception and dinner dresses are made in thu
ne" pzinceese shape-the Margusrite-audi in the
Louis QnAtorze and the stately medieval etyles.
They are OF such superb fabrics - beocade.
| toc1da-d1mAsk. damaAsA velvet. mix srtlped
With velvet, Aud embossed velvet; and .uuor
whispers that this ladies are to expsct fabrics
still mora splendid aud marvellous. Tho last
caprice Tor the ornamentation Of these costumes
is al e1tra7agance in tho w2y Of bu1tons--ee:o q
OF ScArAbee III Egyptian colozs OF enamel aud
tho pink lotus Hour en1msled on 4 black
ground. Another unique style hss two broad
bands. ono blue, the other green. With figures
Of gold in cheeks OF IN Oriental character. 4
| set OF gold buttons is enatneied in bars Of b}ua
red. and green, and others are copies Of ancient
models in GEccian MYTHOLOGY. Thsre are also
tiny dies Of amher, with outspresd transparent
dies with diamond rings, and doyss OF opa.s
and diamonds. There are other vsrieties in au-
| tiqua silver, euamo1ed and o1idized silver to
| correspond with the 6gree beads and sesa Of
jewelry now 30 fashionable. These buttons arc
] Ill Of medium size.
Foreign designers arc Introducing into the
magnificent sl1ks just appearing the fashions Of
] Sar1conio textures wrought IN Spain, some Of
which have already appeared hero. Old silks
| from the Palermo looms are copied. The tawnv
ground has small cur.ed serrated leAves-the viue
leaf and blue flower oentsura. India silks OF
the gorgeous medieval period are reproduced in
| Paris, With fowers and shells and atl manner OK
! strange figures in silver and gold For these
superb fabrics society has been already prepared
| BY the gilt and River Tissues, the gIittering
b1aids and fringss now faahionahly worn. De-
| 8gners ara searching Genoa, Venice, Lucca, aud
| other cities noted for silten figured textures,
! ~hero specimens arc found and Immediately
copied. A lata importation ls Al exceedingly
| soft cashmere aud wool serge Of such shades
| ~ navy-blue dark iron-gray, mulberry, prune,
and Al invisible green, With stripe edged NTH
| repped tines Of Eilt. Il ia hinted that couceita
| in the styles and embroideries Of ths garments
Of ancient days viii be agafn introduced. where
| in the figures resemble in color the fowera
of tho field, aud rival in 6neness tho work Of
spidera."
Among other quaint novelties is the prfnceaso
dress. cut low-necked Tor an evening toilet. Tho
front Of the costume is plain sllk, and tho back
is composed Of such rich fabric a. brocade inter-
Wo7en With threads OF gilt or siiver, veiyot
satin danask. or embossed velvet. Tha coloss
OF tho two fabrics exactly correspond, hut tho
facinEs must contrast. For instance, dark or
black velvet train with damAak front has straw
berry Innings. and wnter-Ereen fa.lle aud bro
cade combined has facings and Innings Of cream
color. Tho front breadth Of this costume has
three planted dounces Of croam-colored gauze
arranged beneath Iooselv-drapcd scarf apron
edged with fringe Of Hties-of-the-valfey. Tho
baauue front 10 buttonou aud pipea with doublo
cord. Where the train OF brocade fatis back
from ths front the sides are edged with vine Of
the lilies. Tho tiny sleeves are scraps Of g&uze
concealed bv lace and lilien.
Reception and visiting dresses have The polo
naiae shape, aud the preference for this very be-
coming and graceful style becomes strongly
marked. The fabrics are Of the richest a:uffs.
requiring little cr no trimming. To produce ths
fan-traiu. crinoline threeQuattera OF gard deep,
or any stiff material. is plaited like fan and
model skirts show these crinoline fans edged
With plating OF lace or rnf1ed-edged muAlin.
An important faature this stYfsi that trained
petticoat is not required. Among the nice dis
sinctiona Of tbs toilet to be strictly observed is
this: Gilt galloons and tiers braids are reserved
tor carriage wear while stael and silver ar worn
in the street, for wa}kins, driving. or visiting
the finest silver bradB and silver f11Eree agr1fos
and chatelslnes are confined to full dress knd
other evening wear The long priocesse dress ia
mada without trimming OF oyetakirk; the prin-
cesse overskirt IL neArlv u loug Is tbs ander-
skirt, which must match the sleeves. snd tbo
front only is trimmed to correspond in material
with tbs sleeves. The draplng Of skirts eronas
to be exceedingly irregular and fantastic, with
out design or pattern Lengths Of silk without
being cut are disposed in diagonal graceful
folds from right to left. arranged in looss p!ats,
sc2rf-f fashion. shawl-fashiou. or anv fashion dc
s4ted by the artistic skill Of the modiste-
Fasl,lon couceutratee her energies, however,
''lengthened sweetness long drawn out" With
which nature has nothing whatever to do. Not
only aTe waists to be excessively long, but skirts
and trains correspond and all draperiea fall slim
and lsnk. yet not without certain grace. Tns
a&tsened back denotes the absance Of tots"aure.
Unde1skitts ara destitute Of atarch, aad
it is tho fashion to be limp, long, 3nd
thin. The very tight, c'oss ele.ves xra auk-
ward, And the reveree Of artistic grace the other
extreme, the Martha Washington and Mario
Autoinette sleeve is the prettiest styla that wAs
ever invented 10 show to advantage pretty
1Tn.
The material Of tho veddins-dress 10 mora
costly, and less trimming is used. White
soft fas1le. or it il oftensr satinnpished faille
c.l1ad 'bIide's SATIN" of exquisite richness and
soft creamy tint Of pure texture that it costs
$40 yard+ Laco is very httle used with these
elegant fabrics; tuIlA rail and tnlfe pfaitings
At the neck and wrists arc sufficient Tor these
costly dresses.
Feather fans are verv fashionable. There are
pheasant feathers and peacocEs' feathers r.
ranged oa to:toiss-shell sticks. Ebony sticks
and olhers Of delicatoly carved violet rood are
1esther tips or poaeock-feather eyes- Thoae
aco printed BY hand With brilliant esust-
ers Of flowers. bees butterflies. and birds.
Curiously carved yellow ivory slender STICKS ars
like the frest lace. Next are the India fans Of
down p1ucked from the oetrich's breast: in the
centre il perched brilliant tropical bird. The
latest fashion for sleeyeetuds il to have tha two
initials OF the wearer made very heavily and
sol,dty in gold, one letter to each wrist. These
letters are mounted on foot, and vithou.
background. In fancy t1inkets lovely little
parures Of volets arc now made OF purple moth
er-of-pearl, With tiny cEysta! in each centre !;
= ANAL violet forms each earring, and large
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