Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-12-01

| sngie design obtains prominence. and the
4 innnlte vanity enables ladies 20 have them
or do without. as they please. Times being
| hsru many decide to do without, AT least
| while the mild weather continues, and therC--
| lore more square and more striped India
1 shawls appear upon the promenade than
nave been seen FOR many years, the young
! glrls aoding jackets en- suite 20 their COS
tunes, and finding these all that is required
until snow brings out furs and suggests n
necessity Tor heavier vrappine Had a
cloak, instead of an army OF olosks of all
| shapes and sizes. made its appearance
every woman would have had one. As a is
the difference between an old dolman and
some of the new cloaks Is so slight that The
majority stick 90 their old dolmans III they
do not revive antiquity in the shape OF a
shawl. For at best the woman OF society
has really very litileuse for cloak; IL would
only cover up her exquisite costume which
she wants to display. Fashionable cloaks
therefore must continue TO have the form OF
wraps until we come back 10 perfectly plain
skirts. Occasionally this dcSSdfrdteDa-if ~
be one-seems to have been reached. but of
that more anon. Will the seal or the fox D.
left upon the face OF the earth after this win
teri One would think not ifone might Judge
by the monopoly which these furs have oh
tanned, and the immensely OF the demand.
The fox Is known to be sly, however, and
"silYer" fox or gray fox, IL il n question il
all is even fox that claims 10 be- AS 10 The
seal. poor animal, all the seals in the world
would not furnish seals enough to clothe the
women who are ROBBED thus royalty
Grey otter and bla X lynx, "sily,sr pointed i"
have some admirers, and look especially
well with navy blue costumes, but the har-
mony OF color Il beginning To be SO well un-
derstood that ladies do not like to mix them,
| even i'm their furs, and either the solid brown
with seal brown hat and costume, is worn.
or suit or jacket fur trimmed, with muff 10
match.
Suits of this description are now 10 be
found ready made, the Jacket and muff cost
ing little more than mink mufftcn wears
ago, the fur fulfilling all the requisites i'm
| being dark or black. so that IL will not dis
turb the general ensemble. Correct effect Il
the great thing; ii is ill-bred 20 inquire into
| details.
ToGUEs.
| The Togue is the winter hat or bonnet par
eJceibence, at least for full dress and evening
wear. 1t has straight pleated cap crown
and a brim which sets closely to the head II
| is made OF all velvet, OF silk and velvet OF
| silk and plush, and velvet and fur. The most
| definite and distinctive styles were placed on
| exhibition a few days ago by A. T. Stewart
| 60. For evening wear there was a Togue
OF white plush, trimmed with a band of white
| satin: Prince of Wales plume OF white
| ostrich feathers. held by silver pearl buckle
| and white and plush rose placed under a
| narrow putting OF pale prime terry velvet
| and white lace which borSiered the brim A
| black velvet Togue matched IL exactly. eN-
| cept that the roses were lemon color, the puff
| fling pale blue, and the clasp black enamel.
| with fine lines of gilt. Another was of seal
brown SILK, with brim of seal fur, aud or
1 naments consisting of a wreath OF brown
| velvet leaves, a cap ofN alenciennes lace and
1 cluster of Provence and tea roses.
| The furry hats, with widc-awake brimS.
are much affected by young girls of the stu
| dent and artist class, but young society
| narrow brims, q Ia Stanley. or bcgetfCJs made
or covered with feathers.
| THE "JosEPHINE" EVENING DRESS.
a Madison avenue belle created quite a
| sensation the other evening by wearing az a
| grand entertainment dress Ia Josephine.
| II was a white satin-finiSh silk, plain, Cored
skirt, trimmed with three rows or rtlffies OF
| white lace, which assembled at intervals, and
were finished OFF by satin bows. There was
| no train; the skirt hardly more than touched
| the ground at the back, and was SO narrow
| that II needed no tying back. The bodice
| was low, and trimmed with ruffies around
| the neck; the sleeves short Her long white
| gloves had lwenty-fouT buttons, and reached
| away above her elbows, nearly meeting the
| sleeves. Her hair was combed up from the
neck, and arranged i'm puffs and little curls.
| showing a necklace of pearls, composed of
| many strands, with diamond pendants. and
| white satin shoes with excessively high heels.
| This was an exaggcrstion Of a style which
| Is beginning TO be very much affected for
| evening wear. Very narrow skirts, no over
| skirts, and a few narrow hounces. either
| forming the small demi-train, or carried
| round and the trimming extended i'm various
| ways iengthwise upon the skirt. These STYLES
| remind one of the white linen reSses our
| gIandmotherS wore under long, dark-blue
| cloth cloaks, in winter as well as summer.
| carrying in front OF them muffs as large as
! themselves. When We get back TO narrow.
| short skirts and narrow hounces We shall
| have completed the circuit, and many expect
| 10 gradually travel up again 10 numerous
| skirts, to stiffened and expanding skirts, aud
| finally TO hoops again.
| FIGURED STUFFS.
| Fashionable modistes lay the greatest pos
| slbie stress just now upon rigorous simpli-
| city of form and richness OF fabric. TIE later
| models OF rich dresses use one fabric and
| that the costliest for the body part of the
| dress, and the palmer one for trimming.
| Thus elegant damaSsei robes are trimmed
| with plain ydiue. figured velvet with gdiHc
| also, and plain Lyons velvet with satin.
| The damaSked stuffs are, however, the ma
| terials most i'm demand, and the different
grades and kinds afford unlimited oppOrtuni-
| ~ for selection. White brocaded silks are
even chosen for brides, and trimmed with
| white satin finished fdUe, the magnificent
fabric showing superbly under the vail OF
transparent tulle. House dresses are made
| of wooden damask and finished with piping
/ The pocket is of silk and the skirt draped a
little at the sides, but destitute Of hounces OF
| pleating.
CoLoRED PErTICoATs.
The newest colored skirts for winter wear
are of felt or light twilled all-wool English
waterproof cloth in dark solid colors, the IA
vorites being crimson and navy blue. Tn,
cloth is not any heavier than flannel. Til,
skirt is trimmed with two fine fiat knife
| pleatingS, three TO five inches in depth, head
ed with fat braid, stitched on, Of the same
shade, or with fat bands of embroidery. Tn,
skirts are warm, not weighty, and will wasl
perfectly in cold water I'm WHICH borax and 9
little white CASTLE soap have been dissolved
They fulfil all the conditions of wintel
| walking skirt.
1 LUNCHEON CLOTHS AND CUSTOMS.
| Lunches" for ladies have of late years he.
come quite a feature in fashionable a. well as
literary and artistic society. They always
have been popular among woman Journalists
and lady artists who live in ssrooms" and
studios, and fratemiZe in a manner which is
at once free without undue license, and easy
without yulgarity. The gift OF a box of grapes
] from friend in this country, of a bottle OF
| olives or a few boxes of sardines from some
one aware Of a weakness for these delicacies
forms the basis for an :::;;:;,r6mptu lunch after
semi bohemian fashion, which is thorough
ly enjoyed at least.
Ladies' club lunches are different from,
| this, and society lunches differ still more
| widely. When ladies in society give a lunch
| it is usually 10 introduce a bride or a new
| arrival into the charmed precincts of ssour''
circle, The number invited does not exceed
| twelve, and II is characterized by a certain
| formalfty which is not broken until the fine
| Young Hyson, the delicate Cliquot or Roe
| derer begins 10 circulate for all have the
same effect so far as supplying a gentle
| stimulant is concerned. Not that would be
| understood as intimating that women i'm so
| ciety have a habit of drinking wine, or doing
| anything else that is injurious, more than
| any other women. On the contrary, / know
| many that, seeing il constantly, never touch
| IL, and others who Will not allow alcoholic
| liquors of any form TO appear on their
/ tables. Many stories have beer told regard
1 ing the habits of New York women in and