The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1876-07-02
GR0WLER ON HIS TRAVELS
NOW FINDING FAULT WITH THINGS
AT NIAGARA FALLS.
MAKING IAeht % the Vendors Of Trinkets-
Dom Pedro's Descent trio the Cave II the
Wiuds-Expcricuccs ON the &c. Lawrence.

m.ksss IAest q the Vendors Of rr,nsets-
Dom Pedro's Descent TRIO the Gave II che
wiud.-Expcrfcuce- ON the &c. La wrencc.
MONTREAL, June 50.--American travel
has not yet fairly set IN for the season. The
hotels at the Falls OF Niagara on both sides Of
the river are comparatively empty The visit Of
Dom Pedro and his suite furnishes a never-fsil-
ing topic with which the vendors OF trinkets
and indeed, all who have goods OF any kind to
sell entertain visitors and urge them on 20 reck
less extravaganza. For when we are told that
the Emperor purchased such mementoes OF his
visit as bushels of rather ciumsily made stone
charms and scores OF pincushons Of Intricate
construction, how can we omit to supply our
selves literally with similar souvenirs2 The
Brazilian King, too, seems to have distinguished
himself In another way. As most persons who
have visited Niagara are aware, the vast volume
OF water that pours over the Horse Shoe Falls
leaves space OF nearly sixty feet between the
spot In which Il plunges into the lower river aud
the face ~ the rock, a space that is traversable
for ii5 feet. About halt the tourists who visit
Niagara dress themselves from head TO foot IN
oil suits and follow the coiored guide as far as
the entrance Of this aqueous cave near enough
TO the falls to have the spray dashed In their
adventure under the falls" but To go the
whole distance II feat that seems to be by no
self at certain points literally cllnging to the
rock his feet resting on an exceedingly slippery
ledge Few inches broad, ana aHOrdlng very
precarous foothold. Drenched and blinded
with the spray that pours over him. he is unable
to see three feet ahead but IA unpleasantly con-
scious Of a boiling, surRlng white mass few
yards below, while sixty feet away the torrent
from above Is plunging into the abyss with a
roar that might well stun and bewiider the cool
est heads.
True to his determination to see everything
worth seeing, Dom Pedro arrayed himself in a
pair OF oisKin overails, a long coat 20 match a
sou'wester that almost hid his face from his
attendants, and pair OF rubbers TO protect his
faaf IA ma ~ M m
important. to guard him against slipping on the
rocks. Thus prepared. and followed by large
from BRAZIL he started for the foot OF the Horse
shoe falls, led by the guide, who had not been
told that he had an emperor "a his follower lest
Il should turn his head and result In an accident
As the roar OF the falling water became more
anu more uistlnct, anu we rolu spray p cyan 70
party rapidly decreased. and when the entrance
| to the passage behind the falls was reached not
more than four or hve gentlemen accompanied
| the emperor. who pressed close upon the foot
steps Of the colored guide with an imperturba-
| bility that nothing could disturb.
few yards under the falls the Emperor's
companions felt their curiosity amply satisfied !;
| they could hear each other speak, but they knew
| by that admirable instinct which draws men to-
gether In moments OF real or Imaginary danger
| that they were actuated by a common feeling !:
| and when the colored man arrived at the end of
| the traversable part OF the space beneath the
| falls he turned and found himself alone with
| the Brazilian Emperor.
And the brave old gentleman" said a vender
| OF curosities ON the Canadian side, las soon as
~
| bought pair Of slippers exactly like those YOU
were looking at
Having visited tho whirlpool rapids. and
| learned that IL costs more To see them on the
American than on the Canadian side, because
on the former the tourists pockets are, ngura-
| lively speaking, turned inside out 10y the ban
ditti at the top OF the elevator. who then lower
| him about II hundred and eighty feet TO their
| friends below, who exert themselves To get all
the money he has left, the inevitable conclusion
is arrived at that Niagara Falls had better be
seen with the least possible delay
The shortest route To- Toronto IL by the steam
err but this Is the season of picnics, and Lake
ontario does not always wear an unru1lcd face
A seaside picnic Is. perhaps. the saddest thing
known to mankind, SO the journey To the seat Of
the Canadian Government Is probably more en-
toyable by railroad.
One steamboat company has a monopoly Of
the passenger trsffc between Toronto and Que
bee, and, rs L. usual under such circumstances
they provide the worst possible accommodation
at the highest price, In the present deaith Of
not nlled Perhaps not Certainly they are not
crowded to the sinking point, but there are.
usually. about three times as many passengers
can be provided with berths, so that AZ night
the cabins resemble a military hospital mat
The cEets ca fop NEAL s' ON Sosrd but " hey
are not such a. would tempt the appetite Of AN
Invalid, ana when an american isn,lsnlan sad
could get better dinner for fifteen cents IN "A
New York hash house, he spoke the truth.
Canadians are keenly alive to the Inconvenience
attending this part Of the route and while they
aver, with perfect Justice that the attention Of
the officers aud stewards OF the boats To the COM
fort of the passengers far surpasses that prac-
ticed in the average United States steamer, they
complain that the ill-judged economy Of the
company Is turning the tide Of American
travel away from Canada.
The trip to Montreal occupies rather more
than thirty hours. The steamer starts from To-
rOnto at o'clock In the afternoon. and at about
the same time on the following day she enters
the far-famcd rapids OF the II. Lawrence Two
runners for Montreal hotels are ON board, and
they take II In turns TO dllate upon the various
| points Of interest through which We pass. They
tell US that the water In the rapids Is three feet
higher than II has been Tor twenty years and
this circumstance, robbing them. ms II does, OF
any little element Of danger which. when lower.
they might possess, depriyes them OF their chief
attraction. and even the bellies Of Hamilton col
lege, many OF whom are going home for the va
cation fail To experience anything OF that thrill
ing excitement which tire guide books say Is al
ways felt In shooting down this part of the
river.
The old Indian pilot steps on board TO take us
over the last Of the rapids, and at : O'Clock we
carried OF forciblN by the latest Of the run
ners to hotel In Montreal.
Proposal of Doubtful sense.