Grant County herald. [volume] (Lancaster, Wis.) 1850-1968, 1876-09-28

appearance of q low bust. The neck
of the dress is as high as it is possible
to wear it, and in many cases has
two collars, one of which stands.
while the other is turned down, By.
ron shape. There are double breast
ed, diagonal and square close fronts.
Trimmings usually extend from top
to bottom of the waist, being wide at
the top, sloping in at the taper and
widening at below the waist line.
Plastrons of silk are cut in this way.
Sometimes there is single plastron
down the middle, while others have
two plastrons set on lsttle beyond
the button .holss. This is q tasteful
and simple fashion. Usually there
are two rows of buttons on each side
plastron, and one for buttoning down
the middle, making FIVE rows of but
tons 10 front instead of the regular
ton three rows as at present. Sleeves
are coat shape with scarcely room
enough TO get the hand through at
the opening. Pretty little revers
and narrow pleated frills form the
cuffs, which, to be stylish, must be
simple and not showily obtrusive.
The tendency in the richest dresses is
to have the sleeves match the waist,
yet there are many combination CO.'S
tunes with silk or velvet sleeves in
wooden over dresses. Buttons appear
on the sleeves as well as on the body.
There is great fancy for embroider-
ed buttons, with star wrought in
silk on each button. Pockets are
both useful and ornamental, and of
most varied shapes. Long-looped
bows extend down the fronts of pol
onaises, and play pretty part and
also an important one, in Frightening
up the new costumes.
COMBINATION COSTUMES.
As this is to be hard winter, the
reader will be glad TO know that COM
bination in cnstomes remains in
fashion. There are combinations in
fabrics and combinations in color.
Not single short suit is found made
entirely of one material; hence short
patterns and party worn dresses can
be used again as parts of new suits.
There is less shading than formerly;
thus instead of dress of ono color
showing tone upon tone of that color,
bright contrast in relief upon dark
colors are preferred For instance
the dark blue, green, or plum-colored
silks of last winter will form excellent
foundation skirts for new over dresses
of wool or of silk brocade of the same
color, which will be frightened up
with facings, knots and pleatings OF
cardinal silk. There are four shades
of brown that will be used for cos.
tunes; these are variations of seal and
bronze brown. The myrtle or Rus
sian green costumes are largely inn
ported in fine wooden stuffs, in silk
brocades and velvets. Plum-color
and navy blue suits are shown in pro-
fusion. One pretty way of relieving
these is to trim them with bias bands
of cardinal silk that are almost con-
cealed with row after row of blue or
plum colored soutache, giving only
the merest glimpses of the cardinal
trimmings between.
A few regular round over-skirts are
shown, but these are not festooned to \
look bouffant as at present. They are
drawn together low down in the back
and held there by large long-looped
bows.
ToURNURES.
All bouffant tournures are aban.
doned. The long slender hustle that
holds the lower part of the skirt away
from the feet will be retained, though
many ladies' prefer pleatings of fan or
crinoline placed inside the skirt of
each costume. The slope from the
waist to the end of the train is gradu-
al, and must be natural looking as the
skirt falls away from the wearer
when walking; otherwise the grace
ful effect of the new over dresses and
shapely cloaks will be destroyed.