The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1876-04-21
GhegHtelLfgetrfsr;
Roupety and Dress Material This
SDFinR.

Jennie June says, in regard to the
former, tina. bonnets are less daring ans
nart,ke more Of the Cottage shape
Some are compressed at the back so as Z
form a uaint little capcurtain, and Ii,
newest French styles are decidedly small
ar. and revive the quiet, plain capote anC
cottage forms. OF course there are AtiI
plenty Of hats with wide, open briHS, an
very striking and RANT appearance, bu
the tendency is toward style less pro
nounced. A few dark chips or straWs ar
seen, patti tins predominant with trim
ming Of opaline tinted silk, old Valen
ciennes lace or the real cashmere lac
bleached ivory white, and mingled IL
long scarf.like ends with trails OF weeds,
grasses, and wild flowers. Instead OF thu
wresths, which faced the brims, last ya;a,r
there are caps Of quilted lace, uSuany
Valenciennes. Braids Of gold anu SUI
yer mingled with silk are used i3E eIglns
both hats and bonnets, gold and black ?e-
ing employed for the black bonnet,' Wn..e
MI, and silver for the cream and Wnite
straWs and chips. A very fashionable
combination in trimming consists Of the
JiE.rsn, .bades in wheat, pale-gleen, hall
i'm and zine. It also forms beautiful
ornsmept. In the wheat itself mingled
win peoples. A quiet little cottage bon
net OF English straw was trimmed with
black ribbon crossed upon the crown, a
wreath Of black hearted anemones and an
inside cap OF Valenciennes and quilted
net.
The Boston AdrrtiSer speaks thus in re-
yard to ladies dress material this spring.
i. seems to be settling down to a certainty
tina, the brocaded materials are to be the
hight Of the mode, not only in damask
,nd wool stuff, but in silk as well. Black
imported costumes come almost entirely
with brocade over-dress, and more espe-
ci.lIy when the over.dress assumes the
form Of a polonaise. Sometimes it Is u
leaf or flower which Is brocaded upon
the silk, then again It Is the tiny scale
pattern. But, whichever II Is, it il made
over the costume or gros.grain for petit.
col,, and trimmed with lace or fringe,
,ouetimes with both. They are cut In
close habit fashion, with the fayorite
Marguerite back and usually have sashes
ending where the drapery is joined. Black
,ilks for dinner parties are sometimes
brocaded in ecru, and have the loops,
bows and ends Of plain silk lined with
ecru. Cream and brown are also used in
connection with black in brocading and
trimming. Most of the dresses are
made in the princesse style and trimm.
Ell with silk galoon in elaborate
patterns. For young ladies, cardinal
red is used in connection with black silk
a lining to bows, etc. There ia great
tendency to decided coloring, with bril-.
liant and picturesque effects. Cardinal
red has gained in favor, and has brought
other rich shades into notice-such n
myrtle green, dark blue and plum and
OInsou. Even the browns are warm,
living shades with sunshine and Ere run
ming through them, rather than the earth
or dead.leaf brown. The seal and beige
brown are the favorite shades. The wool
brocades come in lighter textures, and
may be used In combination with velvet,
-ilk or plain wool Of dark shade, al,
though the silk Is decidedly preferred as
basis. Cheney Brothers are making a
peciality OF the costume colored silks,
and there is no doubt that for real wear
aud service the American silk OF this
brand is the best for the combination Of
costume. A better quality of silk can be
got for the same price, and so great has
been the improvement in the manufac-
ture of these silks that they can scarcely
be told from the imported article. They
have lost the stiff, popliny look which
they had at frat, and are now what they
-hnulh he, soft and pliable.