The Vancouver independent. (Vancouver, W.T. [Wash.]) 1875-1910, 1876-12-23

now To- MAKE THE CHlMILooN AND
CHENIJIPF.

The inventions looking to an improved
underwear for woman in the interest of
her health. Of convenience. Of oimp,ic-
ity. Of economy Of time, and artistic rl-
feet. have so firm footing in the rc ,1ri
of enough of the most intelligent and
sensible American women. thut their
gradual adoption is assured Those
who choose to ridiculc them. ucGlccting
to avail themselves of their advantages
are simply the losers. The sale of such
garments is constantly growing No
doubt the time will come when large cS-
adjustments will send ont women cat
tiers and filters to measure customers.
and supply by express. as the gentle
mems furnishing establishments, do.
So far as the writer is informed she
herself was the first one t. make and
wear a chemiloon--in the Autumn Of
1856. She used the pattern oi a basque
waist with the oldfashioned tight
sleeve, having plaits at the elbow.
Upon the lower edge of the basque was
sewed the fullnoss of pair OF drawers.
1t was made of Canton flannel The
type of this garment Is the night
drawers of children. We know of Il
y
use for boys forty years ago; Of another
who used the same for little girls twenty
years ago; but we have not heard Of any
adult wearing such a garment fitted to
the person before the years above dcsig-
mated. The Boston garment is a chcmi-
loon, and it answers to tine purpose of
supporting other garments, stockings,
under and overskirts. IT is called an
Emancipation snit. and in our opinion
is open to several objections While
the desire of dress reformcrS is to re
duce the amount of clothing upon the
upper part of the body, and increase
the warmth of the eXtremeticS. we think
there Is danger of making the clothing
about the lungs too light The only
good thing we can say about a corset is
that it is warm Another Garment,
which the writer invented in 1863. obvi-
ates this difficulty. and adds mnch that
is desirable for complete suit of IN
dorwcar. We call ii body coat. The
upper part of the garment is a looSo-lt-
ting, sleeveless basque, npon the lower
edge of which is sewed the hamoral
skirt At the waist line is TOW of but
tons. upon which to button the band Of
the dress skirt. 1t combines the use Of
corset and skirt, besides supporting the
skirt of the dress. 1t should he made
warm and light for Winter, stiff and
cool for Summer. The only secret
about its efficiency is that it should he
made high in the neck behind. and on
top of the shoulder seam near the neck.
as high as a mans vest. II should have
the armholc also as large and in the
same place rs mans vest armhole. 1t
is improved by being buttoncd down
the front to the trimming of the skirt,
the lap for the buttons and buttonholoS
made before the trimming is Sc wed on
that the trimming may hang smoothly
across the lower part. We think it bet
ter serves some of the uses of n corset.
if, instead of the darts usual in sleeve
like those OF DR.. Walkers health corset.
The suit is then composed of chcmiloon
made Of knitted material or of flannel,
with buttons on it to suspend the stock
ings. Second-A cotton chemil0on to
which is scwcd or buttoncd on collar
and cuffs. Third-A body coat with
buttons around the waist for the dress
skirt Fourth The dress itself is one.
two or three pieces.
When these garments are made loose
that is, at least fonr inches larger
than the naked person. Il woman is
dressed suitably TO make herself useful
in amy direction. reasonably IN regard
to her health, and if it is not beautifully,
it is the fanlt of her own taste, for the
forms are more simple, more natural,
more artistic than those in former use
Another garment from the same
source was designed for those who were
unwilling to relinquish the underskirt.
1t is IA combination Of chomise and I'M
derskirt, and looks like short night
gown trimmed ut the bottom. 1t can be
made like a yok.d night-dress or like II
priucesse gored dress, and is called
chelniiupe. -F'u'0y w. Steele, in 'bi-
rum YriJuue.