The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1876-03-16
[From Harper's Bazar.l
New York Fashions.
SPRING COSTUMES.

The hsndsomest importation of French
dresses received for the spring shows stripes,
brocades, and plain colors The stripes are
shaded in cameo design, tone upon tone, and
are from an inch to half an inch wide. Ths
brocades are in small leaf and vine patterns,
showing two shades of one color, or else the
| figure is dark and the light ground is in con-
trast, as seal brown on cream color. or blue on
silver. The plain scolored fabrics are twiled, or
basket woven, or in any tiny armure design.
Gray and brown are the col0rs most largely I'M
ported at this season of the year, and there is
great deal of ecru and creaui-color Two
materials, one plain and the other figured, are
used in most dresses in the manner now in
vogue, viz, with plain silk for sleeves, lower
skirt, and parts of the trimmings, white the
basque and over-skirt are brOcaded or striped
THE NEW BAsoUEs.
The new basques are long, simply shaped
cuirasses, fitting as smoothly as glove by the
help of the long wbalebones that extend to
the end of the seams. The plainness of these
basques, that ladies now complain of, is re-
lieved by an abundance OF trimming. Down
the front and middle of the back there is
invariably some arrangement of plests,
bands, folds, or collar. and in many in
stances the edge of the basque = hitherto
so plainly finished by piping - is adorned
with rich fringe, lace, or pieating. Shoulder
seams ara still made short and high The long
side forms contiHue in favor, as they give the
long wasted slender appearance now sought
after. Front darts are very short, making the
bust appear low. The standing Epglsh collar
is higher than it has ever been worn before.
The turned down collars are broad behiod and
rounded in front. or else square cornered in
Byron shape. Buttons are small and of the
dress materials, or else they are covered with
the repped silk used for trimming. The coat
sleeves are very close fitting, and have small.
simply shaped, neat fitting cuffs. Instead Of
fullness being added below the waist in the
back of basques, the edge of the basque is
slashed at intervals, and fan pleatings are set
in.
ovERsKIRTs.
Over skirts abound, and instead of being di.
minished they almost conceal the lower skirt,
and 10 many cases are longer aud wider than
the close plain skirt wern ur der them, and of
which only a part of the 1ounce on each side is
shown. The front and SIDES cling as closely as
they now do, and are often cut bias, or else are
arranged in diagonal shape, indeed, sometimes
the whole over-skirt appears to be cut bias.
The back is slightly bouffant, and has set drap-
cry almost to the end. This is sometimes ar
ranged on long tapes, with several fasenings
90 each tape, as described last week; 10 other
dresses of rich material there is one long care
less-ookiug and soft puff sewed in shap- down
the back nearly to the end, and made graceful
by being cut bias. Facings, knife peatings,
aud fringe trim the over-sklrts of silk wool
dresses; lace is much used on grenadines and
net over dresses
New polonaises are the long plain habit gar.
ments we have alreaey described, aud, like the
new over skirks, almost conceal the dress skirt
beneath them
NEW wooLEN SUITS.
Among the first suits to be donned in the
ho soft fahr ~ od -;sI.
silS, Thus a dark coneo. striped brown twilled
wool dress has a basque aud long over-skirt,
trimmed with alternate saw-teeth of the wool
and seal brown silk. Another OF French gray
armure has basque and deep apron over-skirt,
merely faced on the edges, aud stitched by ma
chine These long over-skirts not caught
up high ou the sides, but, after being diaped,
are almost as long on the sides as in front and
behind. De bege suits have plain brown
sleeves, with striped basques and oyer-skirts.
The side pl- ating is of the striped fabric, ar
ranged to show certain stripe on top OF each
pleat.
BRILL1ANTINEs, MoHAIRs. ALPACAs, ETC.
There is always a demand for glossy black
goods, which shed dust aud are therefore the
most economical for daily wear. OF these the
finest is the Grand Opera brilliantine, which Is
almost as lustrous as silk 10 its appearance,
and by no means to be coufouuded with ordi-
nary alpacas, retaining its color and gloss to
the last shred. The price raoges from rs cents
to 81 80 yard. The mohair of the same brand
Is also very silky, but heavier, and costs from
80 cents TO 81, while the Grand Opera alpaca,
which takes rank among the best alpacas In
market, ranges even lower in price All OF
tnese goods are mace mp prettiy with seh
trimmings, which should not be too elaborate.
PACIFIC PERcALEs.
The French percales are so closely initiated
by American manufacturers that the eye GOES
not readily detect The differens,, and are sold