The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1876-11-10
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FASHIONS OF THE PERIOD.


Do 's.f 900 .1hn. Il------ sIfH eeEl
Reasonable Novelties - New Coaceits I'm
Basques and Poionaises.
Square aprons are also revived, of two
or even OF four separate pieces, straight
IN front, almost as long ss the lower
skirt, and merely joined by rows of
buttons.
Flounces of both silk and wool in fiat
plaits edge the princess skirt beneath,
and the effect while clinging to the figure
Is that OF polonaise and lower skirt,
yet the whole garment is in one piece.
The Boiteuse overskirt has the Same
straight trimming now worn down the
left side made of bands, fringe and bowa,
while the other is merely lifted in plaits,
as II the wearer had drawn it up to put
her hand In her pocket; the back hangs
like shawl without draping.
The French dress, with pa ,tron basque
and Boiteuse overskirt, is one of the
most elegant reception toilettes shown
this season. The basque has tho square
plastron of another color now In fashion,
while the back has the stylish long
seams that begin in the neck of the dress
not half way down theshouIder seauss-
extending almost parallel with the mid.
die &c am. The neck IS also cut unusually
high and collar is added to make 1T
still higher.
Notwithstanding the presence of
figured alG OF colored goods, black
polonaises of rough finished cancels
hair, or OF smooth, black cashmere, are
among the favorite garments at the most
exclusive modls,es; and these are given
an air Of freshness by the new way in
which the cardinal faille is introduced,
or the lace earniture is put ON.
The new square backs of basques are
in keeping with the square plastrons.
They are made very short on the hips,
and rounded longer in front The three
middle seams begin in the back of the
neck, and extend below the whist line
with whalebones all the way--where
they are met by q long looped bow, and
sometimes added fullness, which Is LAID
away out OF sight IN Hat plaitS.
Among late importations the prin-
cesse dress is the leading style imported
for women of fashion, who must have
variety, but each modiste brings only
three or four regular princesse dresses,
while the bulk of her inportations is in
polonaise costumes, or else basques with
overskirts. IL must be admitted how
ever, that the most popular costumes
are those that produce, when worn, the
effect OF prmcesse dress.
When the prin cesse dress is designed
for the house alone, brocaded silk and
plain gros grain are the materials most
used thus a house dress of the tete de
uegrs shade has the front with its one
dart and under arm gore) and the Mar
guerite back OF brocade IN rose design,
while the three back breadtls are OF
plaiu gros grain, as also are the sleeves
posed on the back breadths are long
Topped bows of brocade. Passem enterie
leaves aud tassels are down the entire
front.
All odd caprice about polonaiees is
that of "tuiting" the skirt in front and
on the sides. This is done by catching
up the skirt with round knots at wide
intervals, III diamond shape. Polonaises
with basque fronts are shown, but are
not liked 40 well ~ with waist and skirt
in one. Basque bacos are not objected
to, but the Marguerite back, with three
middle seams, la most used. Laoies
must reconcile themselves to having but
one dart in the front OF poionaises, as
two darts take away from the plain effect
now required; and the longer seam,
placed further back, serves the purpose
of second dart, does not add ANY full
ness across the stomach, and also serves
instead of long side seam, which is
now only found i'll Old-tashioned pat
terms.
A pretty fancy about the neck of cos
tunes, especially of polonaises and man
ties, IS that of making plated scarf and
sailor loops Of the black cashmere and
lining it with cardinal faille. In the first
place, the polonaise is provided with
the high Medicis collar, which is bias
band al inch and quarter wide, with
sioped seam behind, and also sloped
diagonally in front, instead of being
rounded rs formerly or turned over in
English poiuts. This collar is OF black
cashmere lined with the cardinal silk,
and is not piped on the edges. Outside
and around this ~ laid plated bias
scarf six inches wide, also of cashmere
with silk lining At the throat, a rap
of the same crosses it like sailor knot,
and below it are two soft, long loops
reaching toward the side. Five ploits
hold the scarf around the neck, and out
side of this scarf is still another COLLAR,
which is confined to the back OF the gar
maDt and ia two inches HIGH - HOrsoer's