Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1876-05-04
Corset Basque, with BsrnsEs Over
Skirt.


The corset basque extends smoothly
over the hips. and i gracefully curved on
he lower edge. The back has the long
side forms that extend from the shoulder
@e.rn ard GIVE the iong-waisted appear
ance now considered stylish Just at the
waiss line of The tive middle forms of the
lrark i fan cluster Of side pleats of silk.
These rseaax may be set on or let in, as
The w,.ar,r pleases. If the lower part OF
TIE basque Is cut out and the pleats are
Inserted. there should he two or three
tanss III elastic ribbon placed across I'm
dernes;h 10 keep The plesting from fiaring
open soo uideiy. The front has two short
dsts. sad the edge il finished with pip
ing. The neck has Byron collar ofsiIk
and bow. The trimming Of the basque
4 lenrfhwisc bands Of silk In bretellt
shane. which also contributes 10 the ar
uearance of slenderness and length Of
waie The sleeves are Of silk, with .
square cuff Of the WOODEN goods.
The burnous overskirt has long wrink-
led apron. trimmed with bows down the
middle and two bias bands of silk. There
L usually seam down the middle of this
apron--a thing that would not have been
rsertnitted In the costumes OF a few years
ago. Ii the fabric used il very wide. such
A. cashmere or shepherds check, IL pos
x;,sIe 20 make the entire apron OF one wide
breath by Joining small pieces on the
sides. b Il for goods OF ordinary width the
better plan il that Of having separate
front gore, with q wide gore on each side.
The pieating that gathers up the sasiness
must extend very far back on the sides,
and begin quite low down. The wide
back drapery forms long soft puff that
i finished off al the top by hanging
point tina, reminds one OF the graceful
hoods worn on Arab nantes, and gives
the title Of burnous u the oyer-skir- This
back breadth is = single straight width
of wide goods, or two ~ narrower mate
rial. IL i gathered in down each side TO
the apron, and the long hanging top Is
trimmed all around with bias silk
band. The bottom Of the overskirt is
trimmed with a box-pieated friil OF the
wooden goods, Gu: straight and rayeled vn
each edge 10 form fringe. This fringing,
however,. will not look well except on
heavy fwiIled fabrics, as thin fabrics are
too light. and need either an added fringe
or else should be merely hemmed.f The
parasoI pocket is suspended by ribbons
from underneath the basque, as the
wrinkled skirt will not allow j. TO be
sewed on smoothly. 1t is quite broad at
the top, showing the silk lining, and IS
sloped away 10 point where bow finishes
H. It, name Is given from its resemblance
to parasol when closed. It's sometimes
very prettiIy made Of small fine side pleats,
to match the cluster in the back OF the
basque The lower skirt is Of silk, with
trimming Of silk and OF the checked wool
The reader is advised that this dress
need not be made of two materials, rs IL
looks exceedingly well made up OF sin
gle fabric: al least the skirt and sleeves
may very well be Of the material OF the
dress, though the costume will be more
effective If trimmed with darker shade
Of bows and bands. Thus, plaid summer
silks look best with sOlid-colOred trim
mings; light brown debeges and other
wool stuifs may have the same material OF
darker shade for the accessories. Solid
colored silks are preferred when only one
Kind is used. Black Nexicaine grcna-
dimes are being made by this pattern, as
the fullness oi the overskirt is desirable
for thin goods. These have a silk lower
skirt, with grenadine flounces that cover
II I'm ali the parts not concealed by the
upper skirt. The trimming for grenadine
upper skirts is Spanish lace in twos0T
three full rows. The corset basque is the
grenadine over a silk lining, trimmed
with lace Ecru Mexicainc over dark
brown silk Is handsomely made up in this
fash ion .---Hdrper's burr.