The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1876-11-18

Is the t0Wn. Inc etroet9 ana houses ar
lr clean, but we are apt to be mot at corr
u ers with odors which are far more pun
II gent than agreeable, though this not t
u such an extent as in other Spanish towns
J. We walk past the institute, repaired fron
y the effects Of tho Oarlist shells, and tskin
!. a street on our left reach the Plaza Nueva
IS an open square surrounded with arcad
j. through which blow all the winds of tn
0 compass, and which is the Fashionable
q promenade in winter and on wet days
a Here is the Diputacion, the building 90
l cupied by the provincial government, ant
{ near to it the club. which however unpre
2 tending it may be externally, is ittet
0 with every comfort. has cafe, billiard
/. card and conversation rooms, also vel
4 stocked library provided with good as
. sortment of papers from nearly every na
tion. We now pass into the arsenal, {
, shady walk by the river side, with two
small fountains aud q graceful Kiosqut
. for the music. which with its lively Span
ish airs occasionally helps us to pass az
, agreeable hour or two. We are now
, facing the custom house aud general head
quarters Of tho Spanish administration
which by its dirt and squallied appearance
offers strong contrast to the brightness
T aud cleanliness Of the Diputacion or pro.
vincial government, which being basque is
entirely a different affair. On our right
we have the bank Of Bilbao, the hand
so nest facade 10 town, and quite equal to q
good second rate bank Of any other couu.
try. AT the custom house there is de-.
tachment of soldiers on duty, and whilst
We are criticising their military but un.
tidy appearance, we hear the faint tinkle
of little bell. The whole street traffic
is Instantly stopped, everyone falls on
their knees, and the sentry calls out the
guard. We will move into the shelter of
doorway and from thence be able to
watch unobserved the cause ofthis extra.
ordinary behavior. Another tinke of
that pre.emptory bell, now much nearer,
causes US to look up the street and we
see small procession approaching; 6rst
of all come six or eight men in single file
on each side of the street, each man bear.
ing long lighted taper. Next comes
youth dressed in scarlet gown covered
with white muslin surplice, and carry.
ing lighted inoensory which he waves
as he goes along then priest in his off.
ciating robes, holding on his bosom fan.
shaped gilded case which contains few
consecrated waters for the communion,
aud behind him walks boy also wearing
a scarlet gown, who holds over the priests
head domo shaped umbrella, gilded and
embelished almost in the eastern style.
The soldiers have now formed two deep
with their officer at their head, and as the
procession nears them, they are made to
kneel; the guns reversed are held with
the left hand, whilst with the right they
remove their caps and lowering the arms
bold it On the ground. At tho moment
the procession passes, the officer knocls
also, and holding his vap in bio loft baud |
salutes with his sword. Immediately it
has passed. two soldiers are detached and
bareheaded, escort the sacrament 10 the
house of the dying person, or to the next
detachment of soldiers which they may
happen to pass on their way, when they
are relieved by two other men. Wher.
ever the procession paOses,at the sound Of
the little bell everyone falls on their
knees Inside shops likewise, purchasers
aud sellers alike kneel in the doorway,
devoutly crossing themselves a, the pro.
cession passes. aud only rising wheo it is
some few yards ahead. In Madrid the
first carriage met by the sacrament, is ct
once abandoned by its occupants, the
priest installed therein, and the horses be.
ing driven slowly, aud preceded by the
bell and lights the whole ceremony, is
gone through precisely as when on foot.
1t is an imposing sight, 10 the Prado, the
most crowded and fashionable promenade
Of Madrid. When 10 its highest degree
of animation and gaiety, the magic voice
Of that little bell puts sudden stop to all
movement. the thousands which throng
there all fall on their knees, and the
proudest head is bowed low before the
little group, bent on its deathbed errand.
The procession having passed, We may
now leave our place cfreiuge and proceed
on our way; but again We are interrupt.
ed, as we meet funeral conducted 10 a
manner also highly characteristic Of the
country. According to the fortune Of
the deceased. from ten to forty boys with
lighted candles open the march, 10 single
file on each side of the street next a
man bearing aloft large metallic cross,
after which also 10 single Gle from two to
twenty priests, and in case where the peo.
pie cannot pay no priest at all Lastly
the coffin borne on the shoulders Of four
men and followed by the mourners. II is
the custom amongst the Spaniards 10 sa.
lutte the cross and priests, aud put their
hats on again before the body Like
NEST Eoglish speaking men here, we will
do exactly the opposite, aud most obstin.
ately remaining covered before the priests
we will only salute the dead. Let us turn
and follow the body to its last resting
place. when l think We will be surprised
at the peculiar mode Of burial. On the
way to the cemetery, the body has to be
carried past church, and from time to
time the priests iutone prayer 10 Latin
The burying place is situated on an emf
nence, dominating the town, and to reach
it we have to climb matter of some
three hundred steps or more AS We en-
ter the srched gateway, we read above it
the following inscription III Spanish !:
"Aqui acaba Ell placer de los ipjustos y
comiepga Ia gloria de los justas," which
means "Here ends the pleasure of the
wicked and begins the glory of the right.
eous." The interior Is composed Of a
central garden surrounded by buildings
or thick stone walls, one side Of which is
thickly studded With doors which look
like SO many ovens, whilst on the other
side the cofius are put in sideways ons
above the other. The central garden
!. which loaka % aonriahina lii L.