Delaware tribune. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1867-1877, 1876-04-27
CENTENNIAL fashions.


|
Many articles are exhibited which do not
meet with favor. and very elegant mate
rial may not, when made up, answer the
purpose for which it las cen designed.
Skill and proper confederation will prevent
, all disappointment1. When u material has
! been exhibited for certain time, il il
chances TO meet with the approval Of the
majority Of the fair sex, whether handsome
Or not, it will be adopted the cut OF
taste OF the dlessmAk=r. This is tie rex.
son why no many PArisian styles which are
imported and exhibited never come into
general use. For instance, golden and sill
yer galloon have not, NJ yet, been employed
by American ladies NJ they have bsen by
Partisan bellies. Still, it is possible that
they may Yet he considerably used, n in
the la,ort iiaportstions ~ this line gold and
silver are not prominent enough TO render
tho trim ming in any way conspicuous.
There are many other trimmings, however,
from which one can select There is the
deep fringe which makes quite novel over
skirts, and with which whole suits are
tlimmed, 10 is habitualiy in the exact shade
OF tie material OF the dress if the suit is
in two shades, the fringe is often also IN
Iwo shades. Feathers Lave again appeared,
| Out 1to CuliSu Vi Jub Pel-
fec,ly fiat. Guibea-fowl feathers, which
arc very peculiar, md peacook's feathers
are the newest iu use. Very tiue plaitings
are also among the latest trimmings.
Although there is u tendency to abandon
cream lace, and replace 1t by real lace, ,such
as Valenciennes, old pJint, and Maliues,
there will still be number OF tunics made
in this color OF silk tissu ss, silk grenadines,
and coarse canvas tulle, to be worn over
ps,ln aIlE oh tpith u IAa
cuirasscs over the fsille waists The cui-
rass has had its day for street wear, but still
retains it's place in the pArlor. The suits
all have sleevos in materials different from
the waists.
Care should be taken not to purchase
very cheap goods, for, when given out to be
made, the price OF making is greater than
the cost of the stuff, and when made ut
| home, the wear Of the material is rarely in
p oportioD with the labor bestowed, when
che dress il made and trimmed ~ fashion
now commands.
One black cichemire dress is worth q
number of ordinary suits. A tiue quality Of
beige slso makes a serviceable dress. Have,
for Instance, the skirt trimmed simply 10
front with plated ii,unoe and the train
trimmed with houuce doubls the
polonaise is drawn tightly over
the hips, aud puffed in front, the
back forming small square train, with the
| end falling over tho iiouLce. Over this IL
worn small man elet-ticnu. partially open,
made in II half point in the back, rittins the
figure, and having pointed ends In front.
On one side OF the tunic is pocket. The
front Of the skirt AMI mautel are trimmed
with three rows Of galioon. This suit may
be made Of fich M Ateriai and expensiyely
| trimmed, and be as suitable for dressy Eur-
poses u. the beige one is for ordinary occa
sions Fichus are almost always made with
these suits, either OF beige or crepe de
chine. Tole de V.cjy will be much used
this summer. Many new thin materials
have been manufactured. Iuniques Juives
aud pulonaises will be made OF imitation
English embroidery; canvases and battiste
will be trimmed with Mirecourt lace insef-
tions, interInixed with paitinss. Bands OF
English embroidery continue in use for
clildren's suits. combined with many golden
or silver ornamental ball buttons,
The regular "habit" Is a novelty to be
mentioned i'll connection with female attire.
II is true that the "nabit" ID only liks q geii-
| tlemAn'a ooot IN tho lack. W ,hrs it fnr,nS
| long naps, aud is Consequently cut IN prin-
cess shape. The front forms y buttoned
cuirass without sleeves. This, garment,
which is called the Clarkson is either made
of black sicllenne, and trimmed with mar
row lace, (n which case il forms a street
| CJutcCLltl,) VI ltlhuiel Wlbh
fringe, or OF ecsu bastiste trimmed with
ecru lac,. Under this garment there should
be- worn fallle princess Dress
IL must be borne in mind that the main-
stay of lady's toilet for the whole season
,s handsome woolen dress. Small pale
tots visites, or fchu scaffs are invariably
worn with woolen snits.
A pretty dress may be OF fine dust color
| ed serge. The deini-train skirt ID raised
| fnr u nv m nhpi;-
nng the lower part is trimmed with Two
bias tlounces, put on with very little full.
| ness, trimmed with narrow plaitng5 and
| bound with blue cachemere hem, about
half All inch deep. The long polonaise is
bordered win the same triinming and
terminates III two long ends, tied in the
| back over III, lower part OF the tram.
A new goods called "psye" is glossy
i woolen material, and is made in all shades.
| A dress made OF this has falle skirt
trimmed with bias bands OF "psve " and
bordered with faille plaitings. The tulir
| ls OF the woolen goods, trimmed with bias
bands and tsille plaitiIgs.
| Cream colored cachemire aud havano
faille make pretty combination for SUIT
| rhe train skirt is trimmed witch three fine
knife. plated nounces. The very long lun
| ique ID open down the back aud only
trimmed with n havane. culored piping; one
| side il draped mp to the middle OF the skirt,
| the other side is not draped 10 high and is
trimmed with shell shaped piece OF the
Same goods; this sids falls over the skirt IN
point. Ths cuirass is bordered with ID bias
band OF faiile. On the back or the basque
| is bow, placed on dagonnliy and made IN
five loops and one end The colsr is OF
brown faille. Tie llgat sleeves are trlmmtd
at the wrist with barrUw brown falie
plating or pipiag and bows on The outside.
| A bottle green cachemire is made in a
train skirt composed Of u large quadruple
| plait; tie outside Of this plat Is
covered with three rows of green buttons.
The pltit is raised in n pun by means
OF ribbon bow placed underneath. Tie
front Of the skirt is comp )sed OF three
aprons, one above the other, formed OF
| plaits turning upward, Give pisits Tor the
| lowest, four for the second, aud three for
the highest } each apron is surrounded by
faille plating. The small " habit wsste
has an end in the back the sxact width Of
the quadruple plat OF the skirt this point
aud the back arc trimmed via Duttohe.
Outside thesleeves ace trimmed with buttons
and the wrists with narrow plAitings. The
neck is also trimmed with plaiHngs. Tie
black horse hair bonnet corresponding with
the suit is trimmed with braided black
galloop, fastened on the sides by mother
Of pearl buckles, and arranged on the
front Of the crowu in loops On one side
On tho inside is a band VI cardinal red tur-
quois silk.
An indoor dress may be made In the fol-
| lowing manner 1t ID cut princess shape
with seven seams down the back from the
waist down the reams are opened and
brown fsille plaitings are inserted, which
gradually become wider toward the bottom.
The brown pockets are trimmed with fringe.
A brown silk cord with tsssels comes from
under the pockets aud is fastened acros.
the back OF tue skirt and then taken to the
opposite shoulder. The top of tho sleeves
is trimmed with knotted fringe ,ckoys.
Bonuets are at present an Important sub
jsct. 'rhe demi saiso. bonnets are III sde of
msterial mstching the suit, Of black silh
and white lace, or of ''paze neigeuse,"
handsome transparent tlss ue cJupo SD of
wool and silk. Some felt hats are worn
with soft crowns aud capes made Of miscel-
iaueous goods. The capote is OF tho
prevail, ng.shape. Ohe OF the newest bon
nets is baby shape, made Of black
brocho rursh The crown is soft the bfim
Is ruchei and has Vslsnc,ennes on the bor-
ders. Ga the top of the crown is she'll
shaped Nalenciennes trimming AID uarcIe-
sus flowers, " hich fall down the back. From
this poiut come VAenciennes harbes, which
are crossed under tho catogan and tied in
bow in front. Another bonnet il made OF
straw in open work and covered with how-
ers, IL il trimmed beneath with ribbon
bows, extending to che back and there form.
ing y catossn bow fhe position shape
made OF tho black horse hair, is also very
pretty. II is trimmed srouud the crown
With wide Cardinal red ribbon which forms
large loops in the back under the brim
Across tlia front is \ gray ostrich feather,
with tea rose up the side from which it
starts.
Certain ilowsrs are in some seasons much
more fashionable than others, aud some
are always in use, for instance, roses and
} violets. This spring all flowers are liked,
: and an endless variety OF leaves may be
; seen. Tho fruits, such rs currants, cher
J ries, Strawberries, grapes blsckberries, and
! even medlsrs, will ornament bonnets. This
, 10 last years fashion revived, bat fruits will
!! probably be more generally used than they
have previously been.