Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1876-10-02
WASHINGTON D. c.. MONDAY. OCTOBER 2 TV

with braid, In which gold or silver threads
are Introduced. Costume bonnen are made
In . square form, with son crown and mar
row pulled brim, underlined with color, ard
Feathers surmount the crown aud mingIe 81
the back with long ends OF ribbon In two
colors, the dark shade Of the body part OF the
bonnet, and the brilliant crimson or maize
OF The under part Of the brin.
There are Others more like the DsIcaesse
bonnet OF the past season, with the brims
thrown mp In front, and filled In with loops
sno other ornaments; but these are reserved
WINTER FABRICS
There are great temptations this season 10
spend money, IL women only had IL to spenc.
cence or texture has been seen In many
years, as the Infinite variety In rich figured
silks row offered us. The effect upon style
colored woolens have stimulated aosurdities
In orspery which were fast becoming cArica-
iuree. All these are disappearing as N by
magic, and with the incoming ststeliness
and els borate sign OF the new silk and
woolen stuffs come the de Mefici train the
Mary Stuart boddice aud sleeves the stun
pefticcst, ana I'm short time, doubtless, the
The dsmssk silks which make part OF the
grand toilettes are in leaf and arabesQue de
signs, wonderfully shaded In olive gre ems
and browns, in bronze tlnts, and dark blue
with cream, crimson and gray, or cardinal
red with bottle green. The susceptibility OF
such fabrics to fine effects Is evident. Tue
square Medici train will be OF the dark green
allie, thick, soft, and rich az satin; the mid
die Will be traversed down Its entire length
by band OF the damask shaped In towards
the waist, the bottom trimmed with two
rows OF fine knife pleating, the under one
red the upper one bottle green. The petit
coat is OF dana made plain, the bodice
coat shaped, with square lappels, OF faille
trimmed with fringe and pearl buttons In
long and coat shaped, OF damask close at the
wrist, with rufiies OF old lace, like that which
finishes the neck
Such q dress is not very dear at 1850, for
the damask In 81 per yard, the silk not much
less, and the making requires two weeks
steady work by an expert Then there II
the magnificent fringe, the lace, and the but
Next 70 the damasks In cost are the rich
armures blended In two colors, one high. the
other deep, and dark. as for example, brown
with scarlet, (the deep shade, } and gray with
dark blue and white. The blending OF color
10 SO perfect on the rich fabric, and iufiuites.
with admirable art and skin, in com6ining
the colors In the making, the more snowy is
never made obtrusive, it In only permitted
10 appear in glimpees which vitalise, but do
These armure patterns are almost uni
versal In cloth ana wooden materials, when
however they are unmixed with any con-
trastiDg color. though they appear self col
ored in light as well AS In dark shades. They
are OF course, exceedingly well adapted 70
polonaises, but look better trimmed with the
handsome braide, mohair, and with others.
than with silk. Soft WOODEN materials ha We
never quite taken the place OF all stiff nj xed
fabrics. Cashmeres has superseded alpaca
and French poplin, and the armure cloths
must enter almost universally into compo-
sition OF winter suits. For street wear the
combination OF cloth with velvet promises
10 be very fashionable. The velvet forming
the skirt pockets, cnffs, aud collars, the cloth
hka In, afef,
cold weather double coachman's cape.
Silk and velvet is always"well worn, !" but
this winter these suits will be trimmed with
feathers more than with fur, The annual
report In regard to the failure OF the stlk crop,
lis now known TO have been, to q large eX-
tent, speculative. In the face OF IL, decline
In prices is advertised by many merchants,
which however must also be considered as q
"trick OF trade" Prices after all, OF stand
ard articles and fabrics vary very little. aud
Ii lie rs true to- day as IL was nve, ten, tweaty
years ago, that q fair silk can be bought for
81 per yard and a very handsome one for IS
per yard, ard Il is doubtful II the prices
change greatly for the next ten years. o.
course there are times when q very good
than the cost OF Its manufacture, but this In
textile fabrics as in other things Is because
II Ia "out Of fashion" aud this has been sup
erceded by something else.
DRESS TRIMMINGS.
The novelties In trimming seem TO be
mostly In the line OF buttons and fringes
although the new chenille lace, which is ap
fecfive. The revivals Of chenille fringe, Of
chenille and velvet leaves and flowers, both
for bonnet and dress ornamentation, are re-
ceived with enthusiasm, for all the art and
skill which OF late years has been exercis sd
in the discovery and blending OF color, has
been utilized In producing the exquisite
shadings and combinations which are seen
textures. But IL must be remarked that che
nile fringes only lend themselves happily to
rich fabrics; they do not harmonize with
cloth or wooden materials. For these there
proveme mt on any herefofore manufactured.
Usually basis OF wood is provided for the
buttons, balls and the like, which vary the
such b use In this new fringe, it is All wool.
and produced In the fiuest light and dark
shades. Buttons. both small and large, ap.
pear in great variety. Many are simple
crocheted, but the newer styles are composed
of what 10 called vegetable ivory, eila led
In dark color; pearl, inlatd, or shell. Smoked
pearl are still much used, but these are not
new.
The fine mohair braids have been ruined
by the Introduction into the market Of spu-
rious article, but, excepting for jackets,
place OF silk, which, when It doss not wear
OF altogether, wears "shiny," which most
ladies dislike much worse.
UNION Suits.
ladies' underwear has been made by some
American manufacturers which ought To be-
come very popular. II is called the " Union"
suit, and consists of vest and drawers woven
In one well-shaped garment, which protects
the entire person and does away with the
double thickness cansed by the overlapping
OF the vest. The Union" suit lends itself
excellently well 10 the strict outline OF the
pre- sent style OF dress, and will recommend
itself for comfort and convenience TO ladies
in the country and elsewhere, who like 10 be
well, warmly and conveniently clothed.
JIMMIE JUNE.
Jerome Park Races.
NEW YORK, Oct. The first race was for
q purse OF 500, beaten maidens allowed IL
four years old or less, pounds; IL i've or
more, II pounds, three quarters OF q mile.
The start was q beautiful one; bennington
ID led, with the others buncned. Going
found The turn Rhodamonthus shot ahead
and won the race by o length and Q half,
MadRe second, and Cyclone third. Time
l:2oH. Madge was the favorite.