The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1876-03-02
New York Fashions.
THE BLOUsE-BAsQUE DRESS.

THE BLOUSE-BASQUE DRESS.
THE blouse basque is a tasteful and
simple garment, to which ali air OF novel
ty is given by adding the blouse fronts
and belt. To do this the basque is first
made complete in every part, except that
the standing collar is not sewed on. This
basque has long side forms behind, with
seams beginning on the shoulders and ex-
tending to the end of the basque, without
added fullness on the tournure. 10 pre-
vent this back from looking too plain,
sash of the material is sewed into the side
form seams and tied low down on the
middle seam in loose long Topped bow.
The fronts have two darts, are buttoncd
from the throat to the waist, and fall open
below the waist. A wide belt of four up
turned folds of the silk begins in the
seams under the arms, and is fastened by
three small buttons and button holes.
The blouse fronts are then made of two
straight pieces of the dress material long
enough to reach from the throat to the
belt, and each about two and half ting-
ers wide for busts Of ordinary size. The
sides are plainly finished with half-inch
hem done in blind stitches. The upper
part is shaped out to fit the neck, is
gathered and basted to the neck, extend
ing back to the shoulder seam. The sides
are not sewed to the basque, but are left
quite separate: the front parts lap sutli-
GENTLY to conceal the buttons of the
basque beneath, and appear as one
straight gathered piece. The lower end
is straight, and after being drawn up with
gathers to much smaller space than the
top, is bound, aud the binding is tucked
away out of sight under the belt The
effect of this simple blouse front is to give
full and graceful roundness to the bust,
and also to add very pretty trimming.
On cashmere dresses trimmed with silk
the blouse is of silk. On silk dresses ii
is of the dress silk, or else of the velvet,
lace or tulle used for trimming. The
standing collar is then added, and the
waist is completed. Very girlish dresses
made with the blouse front dispense with
collar of the dress goods, and have in,
stead narrow standing gathered ruffle OF
the material around the neck, and above
this the lace frill or linen collar appears
The plain coat sleeves have cuff headed
by bias folds.
La Boituse oversklrt is longer on one
side than the other, and has many rich
deep, and careless folds placed low down
on the skirt. On one side the folds of the
front are fastened by buttons to the back
which is longer than the front, and forms
a square corner. The opposite side
droops almost to the foot of the wearer
and is ornamented by large shield peck
ct. The edges of this overskirt are usual
ly plain, being finished by a binding Of
else a wider facing. The trained Skin
has single box pleated tlounce for trim
ming. This full, heavy box pleating, al
most as thick as ruche, is more popular
at present than the side pleating which
has been so long in favor.
| CREAM COLORED CASHMERE.
Cream colored cashmere is imported fo
choice over-dresscs for the spring. Tive
or three different shades of the pale vel
low tints, beginning with natural un
bleached white and deepening into tn
shade popularity known as ecru, ar
shown. Very handsome costumes will b.
made with polonaises of this delicat
wool goods, trimmed with ecru lace, ant
worn over brown or black velvet. Fin
cream colored cashmcrcs are 81 % a yard
Nigogne of exceedingly soft quality i
shown in cream shades for $1,G5. Their
are also mode, French gray, marrol
brown, dark blue, and turquoise shades il
these fine wool goods.
| PoLoNAIsE CAMBRIA SUITS.
| AS we have already said, cotton goods
such as cambria, percale, batistc, Scotc
Bingham and English calico, will b
largely used for spring suits. These suit
are to be worn either in the house o
street for general morning wear both i
town and country. They are now bein
made with simply shaped polonaises
tied back by sashes of the material. Cam
brio of two different patterns is in eac
suit. Thus the polonaise is plaid cam
brio, and the skirt of the same predomi
nant color is plain, or else it has dashes
waves, or curved lines, making mottle
ground. The plaid polonaise is trimme
with bands of the plain goods, and plat
bands are put on the plain skirt.
English calicocs are brought out in &C
mirable cambria patterns, and sold ft
twenty-five cents "a yard. These ais
come arranged for costumes, shown
plaids, blocks or bars of three dilferer
sizes for different parts of the dress. TIL
choice in these is either brown, blue, c
black on white. The quaint blue gray
and brown shades are shown in stripes {
different widths to be worn together, G
else to be combined with smaller figure
goods. French plaid cambrics show me-
arrangements of colors and bars, the pre-
test of which are black and white wit
occasional threads of scarlet or blue. Al
companying these are the same colors
, waved patterns to serve as foundation
, for costumes. These are forty cents
, yard. Bordered batistes, gray on one sid
and blue on the other, are to be made u
n most picturesque costumes, wit
basqucs and over-skirts frilled and ruffle
) in every part with the stamped border.
: novel arrangement of stripes shows som
| bayadere or crosswise stripes on the uppt
, and lower skirts, with lengthwise strip,
) for the waist, sleeves aad tlounces. Gin,
ham bastistes are thirty-tive cents yart
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