The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1876-08-23
from Harpcr'S BaZar.l

Fall bonnetS have close-titting cap ote
fronts, with high-pointed crowns. The
front or brim is so close that only slight
pleating of lace or silk, or else small twist,
! is allowed for face-trlmming, with perhaps
q little cluster Of flowers stuck on the edge
of the brim. Many OF the high-pcakcd
crowns are too prononcc to please ladies' OF
taste, but 4 happy medium is found in lower
tapering crowns, that preserve enough OF
the sharp outline to be stylish. Velvet re-
asserts itself rs the handsomest material for
dress bonnets. Indications are that felt has
had its day OF popularity, except for Sec
ond-best bonnets; the coarsencss OF Amer
lean felt has brought it into diSfavor. There
is an effort to revive plush as fabric for
bonncts, but it has not been largely bought
by American buyers. Long and ample
strings to be tied under the chin will be
found on most imported bonncts. These
strings are OF the ribbons known to milli-
ners as Nos. 1G and %. The handsomest
ribbons are gros grain on one side and satin
on the other.
NEW SHADES,
The new shade that is to brighten UP all
dark hues is cream-color that is tinged with
green, like that OF young and tender salad
leaves. This greenish cream-color is to be
combined with the dark myrtle green
(Which Is now called Russian green), with
very dark green bronze, and with brown
bronze. Crcan-color is also seen without
the new green hue, but is much darker
than that now worn. Navy blue is shown
again, but is almost black, rs we have al
ready sad, and is most fashionable when as
sociated with cardinal red. The dark rich
cardinal will not only be worn again but in
greater proiusion than ever. 1t is not only
the small accessories of the costume that
display the cardinal shade, but larger and
more conspicuous ones; thus there are
cardinal red grenadine wells, cardinal para
soils. and, finally, cardinal demi-trafned
skirts are worn beneath cream-colored po-
lonaises. The colors, however. which the
best houses expect to Use most are Russian
greens and the new bronze shades.
FANCY FEATHERS.
Fancy feathers fanciiully arranged will be
more used than ostrich plumeS. Thus there
are whole crowns of capotes and OF turbans
made of feathers, and the front or brim is
bordcrcd with Il band OF feathers to corrc-
spond. The breasts of birds are on the
crown; cocks plumes curl low at the back
in two clusters q la !Mercure; and sometimes
the head and wings-indeed, the entire bird
is placed sitting on the crown. The blue
green shaded lophophore feathers are much
worn last winter, is seen again; peacock
bands and crowns, also guinea-hen feathers,
ducks, gullS, and the Russian green cocks
plumes are largely imported. Cream-col-
ored breasts for crowns, with bottle-green
cocks pumes in Mercury fashion on each
side, are among the most expensive feather
trimmings. Black cocks plumes arc mount
ed to form long bandeauX and crown trim
mings, and the ends OF each plume ale tip
ped with Jet The turban, entirely OF blue
lophophore feathers, is fashionable in France
where it is worn with q cardinal red veil.
Bands OF cocks feathers, with wings to
match, are OF the quaintest red-broWn
! shades; similar sets are made up of the yell
low and green "eyes" Of peacocks' feath-
ers: fanchon fronts entirely Of feathers have
silk or velvet crowns, while in other bon
, nets this is rcversed-the soft round capote
crown being feathers. and the close front Of
velvet.
THICKETS OF FLOWERS.
Though feathers abound, flowers will be
used in even greater profuSion. French
miliners place what they call q bosquet, or
thicket OF flowers or foliage, around the
crown OF the bonnet, and the name is well
applied to the large monture OF burs, seeds,
orasses, and foliage that have been sent over
for this purpose. These are thickly-set
> branches, clumps or masses OF flowers, three
or four inches broad, and long enough to
encircle the crown and hang down on one
side or on both. They have natural woody
| stems. with natural foliage, burs, and grasses,
preserved by art in q way that will make
them last ut least season. The caprice of
the summer in Paris has been wearing nat
ural flowers; now their foliage at least has
been preserved for winter use. There are
long branches of real sage leaves, OF their
natural grayish-green hue, plucked from the
bush, stiltened by glue, interspersed with
cardinal red berries, and twisted around
the crown of elegant velvet capotes OF
green or bronze shades. Real held-grass
IS colored dark purpllsh tints, and combined
with palc blue myosotS for other mats.
Foliage is preferred to flowers, especially
darl, mottled autumn leaves OF quaint
colors, and spotted as il by decay. Other
dark green and brown montures nave
myrtie-green leaves, or else they are ol
! bronze shades, with many burs ana seeus.
Velvet, satin, and chenille are also used 10
make shaded leaves and branches, Dut uo
not promise to be as popular as the naturai
foliage. Green wheat is made OF velvet, ana
in moss and olive shades is prettiy COM
bined with roses and with Wall-tioWers TO
form small bouquets for the front OF the
bonnet. Silk petaled roses are the perfec-
ton OF artificial flowers in finencss, and in
durability also. They come in rich damask
red and cardinal shades, are half blown,
and copy nature admirably. The dark
foliage already described has usually one or
two Of these dark-red or else cream-colored
roses in the middle of the branch.
ORNAMENTS.
Few ornaments are shown. The hand
soonest are OF steel or Of jet, or else Jet and
steel are combined. Colored beads are also
shown in thick cable cords for the crown OF
hats, and there are bandeaux OF bead-Work
in Grecian patterns for the fronts OF bon
nets. Navy blue and bronze arc the colors
most seen in those snowy trimmings.
DUCHESS OF DEyoNsHIRE HAT.
/ The hat most in favor in England at pre-
4 sent, and which will be worn in the autumn
also, is the picturesque shape seen In Gains.
boroughs stolen picture ol tne ID
4 with Ave or SIX ostrich tips, the hrim Is