New-York tribune., 1876-08-19
ROME IN SUMMER.
LETTER FROM T. ADOLPHUs TROLLOPE.
cuIycrn Asprcr OF THE ITALIAN CAPITAL AT MID

STROLL IN THE ETERNAL CITY.
lFRoM A REGULAR CORRESPONDENT OF TIE TRIBUNE.]
ROME, July 9.-It becomes q question about the
middle Of June every year at Rome whether the
band which has all the Winter and Spring been
playing on afternoons on the Pincian Hili snail
begin to play instead in the Piazza Colonna IN the
evening. The matter, it will be seen, is moment
GUS one. There is no question at all but that the
trysting place for the fashionable world must be
changed shortly; the question is whether the change
shall be made q few weeks sooner or a few weeks
later. The term fashionable world is used here,
it must be understood, in restricted and modified
sense II is of the truly Roman fashionable world
that we have TO speak. That cosmopolitan fashion,
able world which thronged the Pincian month or
two ago has been dispersed to the four winds Rome
having got rid for the nOncc of her profitable visit
ors, is beginning to live her own life And that
fashionable world which is interested in the great
Pincan Hill versus Colonna Piazza debate, is
strictly Roman fashionable world One would sup
pose at first sight thatputting aside the question as
between those who are afraid of the malaria on the
Pincan and those who defy the fend-it was
question between carriage-going folk and non-car-
riage-g going folk For though the abundance
of seats provided by s. p Q. r. on the Hill
afford as good accommodation to pedestrians as
carriage does to its owner when you are there,
the question of getting there, otherwise than IN
carriage Of some kind, becomes, as June turns
towards its latter half, somewhat pressing one In
the Piazza Colonna, the other hand the srol!crs
afoot have the best of it hollow. The denlzens ot
carriages arc-to use the sporting phrase Ill very
literal sense-nowhcrc. For if they have to
come along the COrso in their carriages, they
must alight to partake Of the evenings amusement,
for there is no room for carriages on The little Pla2za
1t is almost filed with chairs ranged in fouriold or
iycfod order around the sides of the square space
In the middle, as all the world knows, is the noble
pillar known rs the An:oninc column, which was
raised by the Roman Senate and people to Marcus
Aurelus in the 17ith year of orr era.
Talking of that | must give you an anecdote,
which has been making Rome laugh, and which may
serve as a specimen Of the quautum Of culture prev
alent among the patrcns who frequent the court
OF Victor Emanuel. The noble gentleman of whom
the anecdote is told. in attendance on tue Pm
cess Margafta size was driving one day along the
Corso, when Her Royal lIighnes>, who is always
eager for information all sorts of subjects. asked
him what column il was MIA Atczza,' said he
with a shrug and a tone eloqucntIy expressive OF
lis appreciation Of the extreme simplicity ot the
demand. " il i the column Of the Piazza Colonna
lie was a Roman of the Romans, whose whole life
had been passed in the City Of the Seven HIS;
he had ali his life heard the pillar in question 50
[ q.
self or ANYBODY else whether the column grew there,
whether the sculptures which cnc.rcc IT in spiral
line from top To bottom grew there too. or whether
they had any mcauing' IL was the " Colonna della
Piazza Colonna" aud there was nothing further to
bc said about Il.
Wei. il is round this grand old monument that
the gay crowd seats Itself in fouriold or hyeio!d
rank. on the hot Summer evenings, when the I'm
clan j. deserted. A compile Of open stalls OF the
kiosk form, made gay with lookng-glaSseS
and f,stoous. distribute lcr onadc. and
ncirhborinr cotIcc-hoUse supplies ices; while
the band plays watzcs and pokas the man
delight Of which must, should think, assist IN the
suggestion that you are not called upon elmer I"
waltz or polk-nuch az The retired infantry captain
ordered his servant To wake HIM every morning at
g. in orcr that hc msht have the pleasure Of tnrn-
ing round to sleep again with damn the parade"
II however the very Ilca Of dancing ~ almost
euouch ,o produce iqucfaction on the spot | sup
ros. that il is not too hot for another Amusement,
which Is generally understood 10 accompany 1t
flirting To wit. For il seems Ia be an accepted Joke
for the newspaper, just about this time to declare
that they are receiving numeO letters from young
ladies demanding that the change Of rcae from the
Pncian 10 the Piazza Coonna shall he made without
more delay. Certainly the Piazza on sIlll, star
lyl.t night somewhere about midsummer, does
under the circumstances appear 10 be locus m quo
very charminGy adapted 10 the purpose. And III
truth one, who has no business of the KIND of ms
own on his hands to amusc him. may often find no
small amount Of amusement IN watching some very
skIlful and mastery strategy the part Of those
who have.
Look for instance at that young fellow who is
kccping such argus-cycd watch the three chairs
which hc has secured besides one for himself. lie
has arrived very early at the rystng place. III order
that he may look around aud choose hls ground
lie might have found places III the front ro" had II
50 pleased him. But il s to be supposed that he Is OF
retiring disposition, for the seats be has selected are
IN the hiudmOs row, against the wall ot the palace'
| on the left hand Of standing with ms back 10
tbc post-olicc which rs all the world knows forms
one If the sides of the Piazza There is coonnade
| in front Of this building, and the rows OF
| chairs are placed in front of the colonhade'
| But observed my friend decline some vacant seats
/ which were offered to him on the back row against
/ the colonuadc, from which it appeared that my
Young friend was not only of retiring disposition,
as said. but skilifuI strategist, who would not
give M enemy an opportunity of approaching him
! from behind. The open colonnadc was exposed TO
! thr objection. The wall Of the palace was not so.
He had secured his four seats in the desired posi-
tion: and While he was busy guarding them against
! intulson with one eye, he was anXious!y scanning
the approaches 20 the Piazza from the Corso with the
other Presently he looked at his watch. "ies,
see ~ quoth 10 myself; "a lt,lc late! She has had
her gloves on and her hat swinging by its string IN
| her hand for the last five minutes. Bat 1t takes
some little time to get papa into movement after
| dinrcr!p Presently, however, from my vantage
ground at the of the Piazza nearest to Monte
Citorio saw carriage draw up close to the 1oul-
tain Oh that side Of the little square nearest to the
| corso and a marty of three pcrsOns-an elderly