New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1876-09-23
THE FASHIONS.
AUTUMN COSTUMES.

IN COIoRs AND sHAPEs-PARIsIAH COSTUMES
ODD coLoRs-LATEsF WRENCH AND ENGLISH
FABRIcs-PRICEs REDUCED-DREss TRIMMINGS
DoLMANs AND oTHER WRAPS = CENTENNIAL
BOOTS.
The new bonnets are different enough to suit
the most fastidions. From high 70 low soft
yerely Rembrandish quantity Quakersh, and charm.
ingy coquetsh. Tie pointed both absurd
and nearly covered and hidden by thices
OF flowers and feathers. Very little face trimming Ia
SEEM owing TO the elOsey6ttDg fronts Fine velvet and
plush m corded stripes aud plain used Lincoln.
hunters green inkbiue, celeste blue, tie dc nerea
beautiful shade--and Russian gray are some Of
the leading colors Green is ghtened with ivory and
creamy suphurgreen, and is also mixed with blde and
other ink shades Cardinal offers the strongest possible
contrast TO Plum myrtle green black and nk6lue end
gray For dress occasions light resco tints, eer pearl
linden green and blue follow In their several depths
Of shades Long streamers of wide grOs grain ribbon
used again at the back.
bonnet OF celeste blue velvet has the cone-like
smoothly covered and nearly concealed by ostrich
feathers Of blue. The close cottage front has barely
glimpse of red In its acngS. black velvet bonnet has
soft with very long streamers behind Tho
edge has trimming OF cocks feathers N dark glossy
green the projecting velvet bandeau and bows In front
have cluster of shaded roses, cream pink, crimson, and
dark red. third shape picturesque hat with broad
bru sligy bent down in front, made OF brown velvet
beaver The edge is bound with rich chenille binding.
on the front peacOcks breast Is held IN place by Al
agree steel clasp; long MereutO ostrich umes aoat
the Some Of the sofcrOwned b0rnets stray
tho sembance of cape behind and compensate for
tho unique ungracefu pointed crowns Miners are es-
peciay cautious in the arrangement of the bizarre combi
nations of coOrs and trimmings. The simplest bonnet
Is the result perhaps OF weeks study. Ii Is only the
sbadings and etchlngs of two shades Of color into
which, however violent contrast must be added; but
there is poetry in the curve the ostrich pumes and
sf.asr
fantastic of inventions. the feather trimming distin
gulSLed-OOkng black velvet bonnet has long streamers
behind of cardinal embossed ribbon; the froat is
rounded 10y band of glsenng cocks feathers, and the
inside OF the brin is filed in with putting " cardinal
Lincoln green velvet Of different shape 10 literally
covered with wreath OF bronzed leaves yeiued with
gold. The facngs are bronze and cardinal flowers. A
reversible toque Of myrtle green has very graceful
trimming Of ostrich pumes and cardinal wing.
Black velvet bonnets and hats frightened by gor
geOus tropical bird Crowns made of the feathers Of the
brilliant East India coroU-eOrou, the purpiercd tanager
and blue ophodore made into breasts crowns hearts
aud buckles, wrcaths OF peacOcks eyes, creamcoored
and darcgreen cocks plumes, and the long. sweeping
Mercu.io ostrich plume floating the back OF the
crown. Bronze and other mongrel tlnts are revived
again, TO be intermixed with true coOrs Autumn leaves
made into long chapets Of satin and velvet in dusky
gray scarlet and brown, with woody tws tinged with
decay and there panses OF immense size ani beauty
Deyonshirc hats are largely imported in fe and fur
beaver for Winter, and will be worn through the Autumn,
buckle of steel or feathers constitutes the trimming
Many new and eccentric fashions have been introduced
lately, only in styles, but in odd combinations or
colors There violent contrasts, some OF which
offend the artistic eye Tnd otaers are 80 PtTs1a1e
tints in the return OF the bright anne eolois vivid red
green, decided Plum aud p-une, and blue. Just now
there ia mania for red which is neithar crimson
nor scaret simply cardinal red, Sc adopted
Worth and PergOt and Palisian mliners approve, and
SO it win last until it becomes too common. Mixtures
are the law. Strawberry and vanilla lees are one com
parsOn; another parti7cOcred Brazilian parrot
fashionable contrast In costume is cream-color
color the skirt, buttons, and other trimmings OF the
poonaise red sphnx-coor, blue Of peculiar or IN,
descrbable shade sometimes called in,bge is united
10 red These stroug contrasts offend critical tastes and
t 70 be hoped that the passion for high colos possibly
DERIVED from another mania for Indian and Persian
manufacturers may result in introducing into drapery
tine rich oriental tnts of blues with creamy cash. crim
ish avs loved by the people OF the East Green Is
the leading color, called either Lincoln green Hunters
green Robin Hood green Myrtle green It appears
in several shades delicatey marked as the rhythm so
necessary TO musical expression or mosaic and painting
are nearer akin than poetry.
NJ Chevreu, the director OF the GObein and Beauyais
manufactures, gives gamut Of harmony to color. He
produces ten chromatc circles from the three primitive
colors these ten circles make 80 series eac TINT las
duced, all Of which are needed for the " chromato
arsenal Of she Gobem aud Beauyais works bnt tae
transparency unlike the tender azure OF Laps dtut and
soft China indigo Thus the very dark intense green OF
the present fashion like nothing nature either
OF the other shades They are DUH OPAQUE ana cod ana
in costumes lghtened with ivory and cream trim
mngs lending warmth, rather rendering sim colder
hue.
Yet rather picturesque costume is formed Of an ink
blue long narrow poouaise, from which the edge of
red skirt just peeps forth The nbue buttons are en-
brohiored with red STAR and the other accessories Of
the toilet are also red. costume was made OF mag
nfeent damasG silk in the coors aud patterns Of brown
and amber oak leaves There was an enormous square
pocket and the side bsgues fell long and square OF me
egm shape Te f faG fg' S Sl
were pearlcoor. wide chenille fringe trimmed the
princess dress Worth sends tribute to patrode Amer
lean ladies' in superb Centennial costume The coat Of
red silk and these were oyerlaid by newfashioned
rich black chenille lace. The long train and back
ings The cunning little pocket on the long wasteoGt
front and the back pocket maps were oran' ned WIN
of embossed seal-brown velvet and gros grain had
basque 4asE anu trmIns OF one length Of
of mitopaitng and rows OF wide chenille frnge
the train and edge OF the skirt was trimmed
with knife pleatings and fringe OF silk aud chenille;
loosely arranged soarods passed around the neck and
fastened with large bow at tho right side low on the
New fabrics como from France, and old friends reap
Bagddd Damasst de LBsae, Crepe Ara6csque, jacquard
Cree Drapsre Pfk,, itqae de LgoAs SOC gA'goes9as
Cashmere poiHce and Iuany others Including the mag
nccut Indian cishmcTc patterns There rs gfSSt qi-
provement in the 'Gt:ss@es ana dgSf'S as wen a. 10
former nothing IL tho way OF dry goods can exceed he
Vines trefoi arabesques The Greek convolute, inter.
laced chains and rings, horated figures, nlOresque,
mares In the wool and silk fabrics. the wool ground
mostly in hne twils and diagonais OF some Dark
blue ink-grly, seal-brown, plum and tie figures arc
formed by fine silk threads OF a lighter aud brighter
shade in relief giving jacquard effects black grounds
these silken threads are seen IA red cream,
green and other bright tints The alsk NGteHsses aud
damaSSes are woven in the same fashion. Fine nan
line goods OF red black ground is IN great demand
Every variety OF camcs hair goods Is shot VIE! threads
OF some bright. color.
They also come n plain basket and square Egyptian
figures Ia wool and warp hOneycOmb, dapCrcd cUg0'
nails and in raised mGtelasse figures upon smooth
ground MOhairs btliantines, and black easincies NE
In enormous demand In all manner OF fabrics prices
have been reduced Brads, passementerfes ant n,ugl
promise to be tho fashionable trimming. FrnsCs -
l1.fllr