The Leavenworth weekly times. [volume] (Leavenworth, Kan.) 1870-1880, 1876-10-05
MODES FOR TIE SEASON.
What will be Worn This Fsll-The Latest
Materials, Colprs and Patterns.

There IL much TO choose from, as The shop
| windows all attest, but the newness Of the
modes for the fall season is observed rather
in the combination than in the texture and
shade Of the material combined. Still
there are some departures that give dis
tinction and elegance 10 the autumn of the
Centennial year. The same deep-toned
wool and silk goods retain their prestige,
with the addition Of Others more decided IN
style Of wearing and less pronounced in
shade OF color. Greens, blacks and browns
were never before 50 invisible, and the
grays are neutral indeed. A deep shade OF
green, known as boueiHe (bottle), mgte
(myrtIe) and chlsseur (hunters green are
among the most affected, although there
are others, having nice differences from
these, that will occasionally be seen. Ca
outchouc" India rubber) and greyhound"
are two OF the most popular erays. Among
the browns are shades OF "seaT-and please
observe, there are shades OF this-and pain
bTutie, so popular last season, and Carmelite,
but this is seldom seen alone. of the paler
shades in red the newest is eafcr (fiame); in
pale green, ecurne (sea foam) in blues, my
sotis, cell g.coe and ozur pdie, although this
shade was anticipated some seasons ago.
In pale grays there are the girls perie, feutre
(felt) and argent. There is pink shade
not yet common, called smile" and
yellowish pink known as mareslle. These
last are for evening
tTUFFs AND PATTERNS.
Woods are ribbed and damasked and
basket-woyen. The materials woven plain
that retain popularity are camels-hair cloth
and the cashmere that Ia always a standard
dress fabric. The patterns OF the mdteLdsse
damGSSe and basket-cloths are varied. ilk
and wool alike are shot over with patterns
in arabesque or flowers, or small, conven-
tional forms. Oilenest IN wool, for instance,
is a stripe Of the plain wool, alternated
with a satin stripe, and over all, IN silk,
will floral pattern in confined or tangling
vine The wool goods, basket woven, are
as thick braidiDg in square checks, or
smaller and more curiously distributed. In
silk the brocading is in many patterns; in
damasse it is soft and clinging in texture
in matelasse firm ard like fine and perfect
quilting, and for this reason much used for
late fall and winter paletots and sacques
Although it has been worn for some few
seasons back, Herzegovina cloth still ap-
pears made in basques and overdresses, to
be worn with silk skirt beneath. Flannel
OF dark shades, similar TO "ladies' CLOTH"
will be made up into full suits for rainy
days, or, later still, for skating; plain,
though elegant, and bright by contrast in
trimming, according as the occasion re-
quires. The dark blues and the darkest
greens will be eDlivened by and combined |
with bright red The cardinal, as it has |
been heretofore, will be the highest in favor. |
With blue Of indigo, navy and "Inx"
shades, the red will be most used, and will |
be one of the distinctive features of fall |
and winter season, and, il it is combined TO |
enliyen and does not appear so broad as to
seem livery, will be cheerful at least.
TRIMMING.
Fringe will he the most in vogue for
trimming, and will appear in all widths,
from three to eight inches. The manner in
which the fringes are constructed will be
more complicated than eve-. Soft, fine
silk, rowing silk and sadler's silk-haneing
PLAIN or with bands OF narrow silk braid
are interspersed with groups Of crimped
fringe, or Melted, knotted and stringing
braided or plain balls will be worn, to suit
the extravaganza or stvle OF the wearer.
Fringes are now of any suitable materials
AZ VIC III WOti VI ellh \
are made to order and after the wearer's
design should she so choose. For tabliers, {
where sometimes the bands of fringe occur,
the fringe is not 20 often graduated mar I
rover to the ends, but Is continued the
same length all around. Braids are much !
in vogue and are combined with other trim {
mings in fanciful and artistic designs. For
example, q beautiful fall travelling suit of ,
nj -hlno ctoth in hnvlaraI l 4
and half-ftting sacque with Hercules braid, I
,nd and half-inch wide, stitched on each
side, and above and below zeaves formed of |
braids or vine in passementerie. The
most stylish of ekirt finishing, that is, in re- {
gard to the trimming of skirt, is hand
made, knife-plaited founce. 1t has been
ieemed less elegant to have fine qaillings-
he width known as the Marguerite" plait-
More than the broader ones I
made and laid by the hand. In some of the I
broader plaitings the lower part is cut a. in I
aw teeth, l. C., the flounce after plating cut :
n saw teeth. Sometimes tins is started up-
ward about three inches, forming squares I
hese are faced with silk and turned up
outside on each square, forming saw-teeth
70 ints.
BASQUE AND OVERSIGHT.
The most stylish, though by no means in .
III cases the mos. becoming, are the cos q
umes in three garments-the skirt, over c
kirt and basque. The largest houses are q
making up but few polonaises, except to c
rider. A pity it will be if the penekant for @
his becoming style decline, As il is so o
ecoming TO all women, except the very tai 4
est. 20
Among the most stylish basques for the 4
eason are the Edna" made in matelas.e
r damasse and silk (although suitable for 81
ther goods, the "Leana," the "Elsina" i,
nd the .'Clematis." These two latter COM e
inc the latest features in the fastening at b
he side, deviation from theidouble breast \
d, and curl slightly from the lower part of v
ne basque to the left of the shoulder, az ii
Zen in some of the distinguished toilet,es n
the Centennial. A pretty basque for /,
ender figures is the "Reinette," having the n
-onts cut bias, and three plaits turning up- n
ard to impart fullness to the front and ii
'bustness TO the figure. Another feature b,
, basques is to have the material in front "a
nd in plaits to the bust-line and framed in "a
INNING to simulate La Rompadour &C
mong the new ovepkirts that are being =,
ade up in the most elegant materials are .,
re "Lilea," and "Adrienne" and .AdeIi. nj
>" the two latter are prettily draped and
nd much to the elegance Of silk goods.
or evening wear over another color. saw
bite cashmere over blue, the "Sylyanien