The star. (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1874-1875, 1875-01-26
Paris Fashions.

tangible, and more than ever defy de-
scription. What are being prepared un-
der the name OF novelties are not the
dresses without polonaises or overskirts
of former times, neither are they dresses
with polonaises or overskirts, but par.
ticipating in both styles by the arrange
ment of the trimmings. The latter, in.
deed, simulate ON the dress the form OF
polonaise or oversklrt, and conse-
quently these garments are still worn
by those who have them. Keeping pace
with the politics of the day, Fashion can
neither decide to accept boldly what it
has or to resist resolutely what it has
not.
The association of two shades of the
same color, one very dark and the other
very light, or else of two different colors,
will be largely used during the coming
spring. Very dark blue-gray and very
light blue-gray are the fashionable
shades. Among the different colors that
are combined in a dress, those which
are seen oftenest together are gray and
blue, olive bronze and blue, flesh pink
or salmon and garnet, and violet and
light green. The dressmakers of the day
are forced to study painting, or at least
the works of colorists,' for the least
doubtful combination would make this
fashion ridiculous fright.
If every dress mas different trimming,
1t must be added. that there has never
been SO great a diversity in the shape of
waists and sleeves. Although the cui-
rass or armor waist is universally wern
for street dresses as well as for evening
tOilettes, it must not be concluded that
these are all alike. 1t is true that all
participate in the same style; but as ev-
cry lady has number OF dresses, she
naturally wishes them to vary in style.
The waists are therefore made with
round points in front and basques turned
up behind; with revers, single or double
breasted, and buttoned at the side; with
heart-shaped or square necks. or closed
at the throat and opening below over a
vest; but always, and above all, with q
profuson OF jet embroidery or jet braid.
And this is by no means the 0ld-fash-
ioned passementerie braid mixed with
jet, but the braid is entirely composed
OF jet, the long hollow beads ofswhich, IN
the shape of tubes, are strung together
without Interruption, SO as to form long
glittering ribbons, with which waists OF
all materials are striped, evening and
ball dresses being covered NTH them as
wei! rs those Tor the street.
"
ceptibly, increasing in size. Each new
bonnet is little larger than its prede-
cessor; and this progress will lead US on
without suspecting 1t to the large brims
which we have announced for straw hats.
For spring bonnets there is in prepara-
tion the ancient FanchOn shape, but en-
larged and modified, and covered with a
muntilla of black lace embroidered with
jet, and confined ON one side by cluster
ofroses without leaves-a true Castilian
bonnet, which is appropriately termed
1 Espdgn0l.
There Is also In preparation both for
the present season and tor the earliest
sprlng-time u great variety OF felt bon
nets. Fashion has just decreed that felt
is more elegant than velvet; nothing
moreover, is prettier when the bonnet is
well made and wisely chosen, without
eXaggeration Of any kind. The Charles
III, black felt bonnet with broad brim,
turned up on one side over large black
feather. which tails backward, is charm
ing for pretty blonde. Mixed bonDets
that is, of faIlle and velvet, or gauze
and velvet or faille-are trimmed with
jet (leaves and fowers), and also with
flowers and fruit, which are charming.
| know We'll that this is heresy, from the
botanical standpoint, but fashion never
troubles itself much about the exact sci
ences, but layishes on coitfures grapes of
all cplors and kinds, even oil gold, which
have never ripened, that l know of, on
any vine, and perches tropical bird on
a European plant, without caring for
probability.
The visit of the Empress of Russia 70
Paris. short as it was, exercised an i'm
mediate influence on the fashions. We
saw large .cloaks springing up In all di-
iect0ns. One OF these, the CZarina,
edged with fur and furnished with huge
sleeves almost as long as the cloak, with
small, almost tight, inner sleeves, has
the most cn!tan-like, Russian, and Ori-
entail appearance that can be imagined.
On going out to see something of Paris,
the Empress covered her head and ears
under her bonnet with a long scarf OF
white tulle, tied under the chin, where
upon this scarf at once became the fash
ion, and even received a name Of its
own, the Frileuse.
The fashion of wooden fabrics con-
tinucs, and is adapted to all occasions.
For instance, a dinner dress which saw
yesterday in preparation, and which is
destined for very wealthy and en-
trcmely elegant young married lady, was
composed as follows: Very long skirt Of
pink faille, trimmed with ruches of the
same faille, rayeled out on each side al
most their entire width, thus resembling
so many bands Of feathers. but lighter
even than feathers themselves, and, at
all events, more brilliant. In front Of
these ruches were arranged iu curves on
the bottom of the skirt, while in the back
they extended up very high. Tablier of
India cashmere of paler shade OF pink
than the skirt, trimmed with similar
ruches, and tied behind under bow of
pink taille ribbon three-eighths of yard
wide. Corsage open en- cdrTe, but ar
ranged in such manner as to simulate
faille corsage over which was worn a
cashmere corsage shorter than the first.
Faille sleeves, with cashmere trimmings,
reaching to the elbow, with full under
sleeves OF fine lace. The same lace edged
the neck of the corsage. The dress was
completed by parure of diamonds and
garnets en- cdbOCh0n composed Of neck
lace with pendants and large breast
plate. These garnets are considered as
representing the dark shade of the
toilette. In the hair was worn simply a
rose supporting butterfly OF diamonds
and garnets.
Stutts. laces, passementerie, fur, and
feathers are no longer deemed sufficient
for the trimmings of dresses. Metal
even is mixed with them. Large plates
or buckles of gold and silver are used to
fasten the drapings of over-skirts and
tabllers. And even these are not
enough: little chains of gold and silver
l. 4 4 \