Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1875-10-07
The Fashions,

autumn that furnishing houses are hay-
ing their wire lay figures made smaller,
in order to display properly the various
dresses. All bustles and crinoline are dis
carded by French ladies, and instead of
the bouffant tournures in favor here their
sheath overskirts have no more fullness
behind than in front. The careless-look-
ing drapery of these close overskirts is ar
ranged in irregular folds that are grace.
full, classic and far more pleasing to arts
tic tastes than the fashion of having the
overdress more voluminous than the lower
skirt.
The clinging walking skirt does not
measure three yards around the foot. 1t
is made with one front gore, a narrow
gore on each side and straight back,
which consists of single breadth of wide
goods, or else two widths of narrow ma
terial.
The sheath overskirt is made of light
brown Russia cloth or figured cancels
hair. The designs made up of scrolls,
palm leaves and arabesques, mingled in
confusion, are considered more elegant
than those with stripes or bars, vet the
latter are used. This overskirt consists of
one long breadth of the enormouslywide
cloth, to which on the left side is added a
triangular piece which scarcely deserves
to be called a gore.
The double-breasted jacket is shapely
garment that displays fine figures admira-
bly,. 1t fits as smoothly as basque, but
as it is meant for the street as well as the
house it has an inter-lining Of flannel be-
tween it's cloth outside and its lining of
farmers satin, makingit heavy enough to
wear in the autumn until fur wraps are
used.
The waists Of basques and wraps are
very long at present; merchants say six
teen or seventeen inches is the standard
length Of waists of outer garments that
formerly measured only fifteen inches.
The long side-body beginning in the
shoulder seam is found on great numbers
of imported garments. French backs,
without side bodies, are not as popular as
they were year ago. The side forms of
| English backs are the objective points for
trimming. Sometimes these side bodies
are heightened to form pockets or support
| pOcket-faps; in other cases they are made
quite long, and are Tapped or tied across
the middle Of the back of the basque;
still others are bound on all that part be-
low the waist, false side body of silk is
| set underneath, and the wooden side
form is buttoned upon the silk one in
way that half discloses it. There is re-
neWed effort to pOpularize dresses that
fasten behind; as these require the assist
ance OF a maid, the latest plan is to trim
the back of the basque to initiate a lace
or buttoned back The cuirass BASQUE is
not changed in shape, but is trimmed
more than it was last season. Sleeves are
very close-itting, and those for midwinter
are interlined with flannel, and in some
cases slightly wadded to make the arm
look round and plump. The fancy for
having sleeves different from the basque
continues. The long, square over-skirt
already described is of such simple, styl-
ish shape that it promises to become one
of the favorite styles.
Among useful new costumes are those
of black cashmere, a fabric that is now as
low-priced as good alpaca, and is more
graceful and pliable, though it does not
endure hard usage SO well. It is made up
in conjunction with black gros- grain of
the qualities that are now sold for 81 so
or So yard. One cashmere suit that will
serve as model has a single bias founce
shirred near the top, and edged top and
bottom with silk knife pleating The long,
square over-skirt, open up the back, is
trimmed across the front with three bias
bands of gross grain placed quite far apart,
and each band edged with fringe. The
basque has two side bodies, one of which
is very long and begins in the shoulder
seam. The Byron collar and the sleeves
are of gros-grain; three tapping folds
form the cuff, and row of six buttons is
set on these. A second black cashmere
suit has square over-skirt that does not
meet behind, but has three puffs
of silk set in down the back, with
wide, fringed end below. The
edge of the over-skirt is trimmed with a
knife-pleating of silk, and this extends up
the back on each side of the silk puff.
The basque has silk sleeves, collar, silk
forms down the back and something like
a vest of silk in front. A pretty suit of
brown cashmere has a sheath over-skirt
close and narrow, caught up on one side
by reticule pocket and edged with ball
fringe The brown silk skirt has pleated
flounce that is partly silk and partly cash
mere.
Another novelty is a double apron that
is different on each side Of the figure and
laps in the front. Sometimes these aprons
are plain on the left side and striped on
the right. A suit of three materials, plain
brown Algerienne, striped Algerienne and
brown silk, is made in this way. A plain
apron laps from the right side over an
other on the left, which is striped: both
are edged with striped knife pleating. The
basque is of plain wool with striped
sleeves. The brown silk skirt has striped
wool and silk pleatings .-Harper's Bazaar.