New-York tribune., 1875-09-27
THE FASHIONS.
AUTUMN MODES.

IN wRAPs-NEw TRIMMINGS AND CLOTHS
EMBROIDERED CAsIMEREs-GOID AND SILVER
pAMAsKs-CosrLY ToCKINGs-JEwELRY-AN-
TIQUE CAMEOs.
The charm of Autumn opening days consists
mainly In the bo nnets and their variety Is INFINITE
Society been warned by Mr. Tupper OF robin FAMINE
In consequence OF the redreast being sacrificed at the
shrine OF fashion, seagus In danger OF exterminar
tion Judge by the upon their wings nor Is hat
perfect without its sharp saucy wing plume or feather
tip On both continents the destruction OF small birds Is
enormous The demand for these can scarcely be sup
piled 90 with tiny humming BIRDS with cleaning heads
Of irdescent flame, with breasts Of chrysoprase and
rosybown wings Of sardonyx and there are other birds
Of the dusky blue OF onyx dashed with white and birds
Of tawny brown, with scarlet tints Larger birds
perch saucy in soft meshes Of old yellow lace and long
loops Of rich velvet with outspread wings OF amecolor
or black with opal tints. There are the Chinese
kngnsher the purple red tanager and tufts OF the pea
cocks dazzling In contrast to the bright birds OF the
tropics. the plain brown swallows not to be disregarded
and great the demand for feather ruches that tho
small feathers Of the humblest barnyard fowl are care
fully sought and sewed by to yards OF netting
Broad wings dyed with marvellous art in imitation OF
every variety Of gorgeous pumage Costly ruches are
also made of dOwny marabou and fine crimped ostrich
feathers.
Feathers through strange caprice Of fashion, take
the lead for Autumn, and flowers will be popular
through the Winter The o0cs the latest fash
iOnabe arrangement The cluster OF three lovely
crushed is in deep dark red, crimson, and
pink without the creamy tint. quaint concet Is clus-
ter OF dark sage leaves pino mossy STEMS and
woody twigs green with ivy and ferns careessy
kn0tted together, and illumined by large sany red
chrysanthcmum; ferns and geraniums make graceful
garands; large crimson mOssroses are hafhidden In
| velvety moss, and in the green calyx Of buds is
glimpse of red. great deal Of sage is used and
Autumn in her gayest livery copied faithfully in yel-
Iou hrnu and dark pDc1 vii
There chapets Of pale gray leaves streaked with
rosecolor scarlet confined at the ends by crimson
tropical bud or tOuge OF crushed roses.
The change In bonncts and hats consists more in their
colors and trimmings than in their shapes. black
velvet bonnet has black ostrich plume at the back,
dropping gracefully cascade Of creamy Russia
lace There are Cardinal velvet loops and oneha fold
around at one side confined by flgrec clasp. rich
brown velvet bonnet, piped with fawn-colored gros
gn is trimmed with half garland and cluster OF satin
leaves embodying the two colors. Successive loops
at each side arc lined with cream-eolor a clasp
Of oxidized silver and flaGrce gilt fastening
birds wing near the back reversible felt hat IN
tended to be worn either way, is trimmed with fawn
color silk serge ribbon and cardinal red birds wing and
cocks feathers deep red crysanthcmum and
long loops front and clusters Of lined bows
the other. brown felt faring hat is bound
at the edges with pladed gilt and black wide
Titan braid. clusters Of brown and gold leaves on
the top, and at the side wood ducks wing. bonnet
ViroD Is Of dark brown velvet with creamcoored and
ecr lace scarf twncd around the Just above the
forehead touGe OF creamy tinted and crimson roses
and thick quilting Of ecru lace the brlm is edged with
q gilt braid and superb merle bronze blue
and bronze Brazilian black bird, is perched on
the crown. The slouch felts are turned up fanci.
fully, according to caprice. are not bound at the
edges, and trimmed mostly with folds OF velvet
beneath the brm and around the crown. great
deal Of gilt is used In all the imported hats
and bonncts, but 1t is q matter OF doubt
whether this questionable taste will be recognized
by Americans. The ribbons are very beautiful and
soft OF wed SERGE and three and four inches wlde
There are also basket-woven Panama ribbons Very lit
tie gros-grain ribbon is seen. nor Is jet used The
Normandy ecru cashmere lace Is very often used on all
bOnnets where lace be properly placed IL mngles
with charming effect and contrast of creamy hue In and
around loops and feathers of dark velvet In fact II has
quite ourvaled This is used felt hats also,
and costumes Colored bonnets are moro fashionable
than black this Those particularly made OF myr-
tie green, bottle green, cream-color and navy-blue.
The latest fashion places ladies in umbreacases with
trains and with SO decided fiat scantiness that
there will be room for ever so small tOurnure.
Very little change is perceptble in style; hence
shapes in basques, jackets, and Overskrts WILL with
some few notifications, be fashionable during the Win
ter. The pOOnaise makes determined effort for exist
ence aud will be recognized in various ways. The
Gabrielle Prncesse shape another STYLE is buttoned
o
figure. The hafhtting polonaise or redingote is
one Of the necessary portions Of a wardrobe
especially for travelling or stormy days The jacket is
even more indispensable. One Of the new shapes unes
comfort with elegance 1t laps in the front az II double
breasted There only row OF buttons and one dart
in each 'front.' The back is much shorter in the middle
has English side bodies and s much longer on each side
to admit of large, square pockets. There is
large turnover collar This jacket is made OF such
fabrics as dark, gray camels hair, covered with
Oriental designs and arabesques; OF shaggy Por-
cupine cloth, Of Mateasse, and other fashion
able materials. The model described is trimmed
with dark brown velvet and large dark horn buttons
Handsome jackets also made OF Sicilienne new
style of figured sicenne is very elegant with SHE'LL bro
caded damask diamond and star patterns, and newer
fashions for Mateas silk have raised velvet arabesques
The Louis XIV jacket be worn either In the house or
on the street 1t has broad English side forms and back
is short behind with sharp slope toward the 'front.' The
vest and sleeves alike and, differing from the jacket
smuate sleeveless jacket over another sort OF vest
The vest ia simply closely buttODed and corded and the
Jacket may be left separate from the vest In order that
can be worn with any other dress. Particularly Is this
convenient when made Of silk cashmere, or velvet The
model imported Jacket has striped velvet sleeves ana
plain silk jacket The rather large Byron collar is made
of the two fabrics coat sleeves and large pockets paccd
on the sides Of the jacket.
The apron of this costume is long and corresponds
with the vest and sleeves Simply draped, with rounded
Sides 1t asens at the back with long, broad loops OF the
velvet There are various new costumes OF this sort
made Of wool sts for general wear as well as OF moro
costly fabrics Titan braids fur fringe. and knife pait
ing are used for trimming Later In the season jackets
OF silk and Maelasse will be lined with squirrel fur
English retain all OF thcE oldtme popu
larity They are made of fine wool diagonal cloth, dago
nal rough SERGE Scotch cheviot and beaver They are
trimmed with far or wide Titan braid. Handsome lack
cts for Autumn are navy blue, cream color,
and deep prune cloth, fancifully trimmed with
the new Titan braid, which is interviewer
h ro,d s,ror and other threads I'm bright cOOrs