The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1875-09-03
FALL FASHIONS.
Preliminary Openings for
the Season.
THE MODISTES CAMPAIGN.
Dress Materials, Trimmings and
BonnetS.


sounding in fashion temples. Fashion plates are
already out; Custom officials puzzle their brains
in the attempt to appraise thdWmyriad knickknacks
that go toward making up a lady's toilet; circulars
which miracles of the engravers art are sent to the
residences of wealthy patronesses of the tickle god
dess and wnat wear" is the absorbing topic in the
feminine mind Not that the fall campaign of fashion
will fully opened before this month over but the
preliminary skirmishing shows that 1t will be excit-
ing one for there a wider scope allowed for
individual taste in the matter CT ladies' dressing than
at present For costumes, WILD jackets and over
skirts certainly take the lead, if polonase happens
TO be more becoming more to the fancy, may be
worn without any fear of being called sold ashionedn
To many they certainly are most appropriate and be-
coming and the ''Alsina," which gives the effect OF a
basque and overskrt, and tho 'Ietta," which is
loose in front, are certainly very desirable
GARMENTS.
One OF the most stylish garments for the street. which
makes up handsomely in drap d'et6, trimmed with
"Marguerite paitings for the dem,i-Saison, is the
Veronique" This has the long, square fronts, which
are usually so becoming, the back forming graceful
basque, with the side form seams carried up to the
shoulders and the sleeves wide and very long The
'Roxana" is a jaunty STYLE with loose fronts
and longer at the sides than either front back and
the 'Faustna" elected especial admiration, with its
long, loose fronts falling apart and disclosing tight
fitting vest inside.
AS the season advances the demand will DO for long,
comfortable paletots, and of these there is great
variety of designs provided, of the most stylish
being the "Esmarada' pelisse, which is exactly the
garment which the name describes
For costumes the overskrt is still retained and Is
worn very long. Here ALSO the widest latitude is al
lowed in choice. If a simple apron is preferred the
'Carlota" will just suit being the depth all the
way around and rendered sufficiently bouGant in the
back by of shirred rufles and sash. The
'Evadne forms deep, pointed apron, with broad
and novel style of sashat the back; the 'Forldan is
shrred the middle of the front and describes two
pufs at the back and the 'Aldona" has broad plated
sashes the front
DEMI-TRAIN SKIRTS
In toilets handsomely trimmed train demi-train
skirt which the overskrt is frequently embodied s
more usual than skirt and separate overskir One Of
the newest designs is the "lnez" demi-tran, which
'hangs" splenddly, and is deliberately trimmed with
shrred side pieces and pointed overskrt at the back
This combines handsomely with the 'Priola' basque
which, for elegant simplicity in design be sur
passed.
BAsoUEs
The designs in basques this season varied and es-
pecialy pretty The desired long wasted effect is pro-
duced by numerous perpendicular seams, and the side
forms arc carried up to the shoulder in many
The 'Levia" is cut in this style and is rather
long 1t has perpendicular trimmings on the back ex-
tending to the bottom of the basque and three collars
plated and reaching to the waist line The sLeyna"
has also long collar and is deeper in front than in tho
back The "Almandne has position back. and deep,
b0.uted front, and the 'Natale" is almost as long in
ont polonaise but short and rounded in the back
The extreme closeness OF the skirts at the sides
entirely precudes the of inside pockets and charm
Ing pockets in the style of oldashioned" Ieticules
much in vogue. These are TO be suspended from
the belt by ribbons, and hot only pretty but CON
viva NV wv s. N''''4' w '-' ' ''4
- DRESS MATERIALS
Dark shades OF brown, gray blue, green, purple and
prune will be the favorte coors in winter silks In
cases the shades are SO dark as to be scarcely dis
tnguished from each other and may be placed under
the head of invsbles great variety of stylish coors
in paids may be found in lighter qualities of silks some
OF which be combined with solid colored silks for
toilets Powered designs in heavy silks, united with
plain form rich costumes for day and evening and pre-
sent endless varieties of combinations, and even light
terias such gauZes and the like show figures in self
colors or in harmonizing huea Straw trimmed lace
fabrics, covered throughout with lowered patterns in
straw, introduced for evening Cancels hair
goods in immense variety again imported ranging
In price from 81 % to So and in quality desirable
they have ever BEEN Quiet plaids are more TO
be recommended than those of snowy patterns they
are really much satisfactory; the eye does not
weary Of them so soon, and while bold and striking
patterns are presented we would counsel the selection
Of those which are unobtrusve in character and sub
dued in color For those who prefer stripes there
striped designs and plain soft cames hair goods for
many persons who object to anything conspicuous
while Knickerbocker or knotted cancels hair goods af
ford yet another variety to the purchaser Fine goods
OF silk and wool combined called Panama melange
woven in basket patterns the basket sergcs of last
season are still popular But paids or stripes in any
material should always be made up in combination
with solid coors and here there is opportunity for the
exercise of much taste and discrimination and room
given for the production OF many excellent and refined
effects in the harmony of colorings.
The rage for elaborate trimming beneath which one
could scarcely distinguish the material OF which the
dress composed has changed in the direction of
making the material itself as a garniture In combna-
ton toilets plaid, figured and stripped fabrics are used
IN ornamentaton of solid colored materials All kinds
of trimming of the material In favor; pufings
shrrings rulings, founces and paiting-the latter
especially are largely used In regard to skirts, may
be observed that when the overskr made separately
from the underskirt the underskrt is usually trimmed
with Aounce the all the way round; but when
the overskirt Is part of the skirt the mode of
menation is usually very different and In direct
contrast between the front and back the skirt being
always so trimmed as TO correspond with the basque or
overgarment with which it is to be Perpendcu
Lar puhngs on skirts arc in great vogue; SO also
are nounces, put on IN box paits, and form
and platngs so small as to resemble crimpings which
are called Marguerite paitngs, being almost as line
the petals OF that flower, extremely stylish being
often put on in clusters with plain interval between
alternating in clusters with broad side pait But
while ornamentaons Of the material brought for
ward TO unusual extent there some elegant nov
elites in fnges Titan braid in silk and worsted gimps
in plain and very elegant patterns, in
exquisite designs in leaves and vines and the Marabout
silk fringe which, thickly crimped extending alike both
loon over which the tultcd fringe on each side
quite conccang it from sight Marabout fringe is in.
deed, made in imitation Of the feather fringe of last
season and is more servceable.
BoNNETS,
Many OF the shapes which have been during the
summer are now continued with the addition of some
Others which novel and becoming Much variety
also presented and especial attention is given to tho
production of STYLES by which every one may be suited
and which will be in harmony with the rest of the
tune Thus while tho majority of the crowns are low
and the brims broad, some leading shapes are high,
with prms; and here II may be noted that, in
the arrangement of brims whether turned back or
otherwise there is, in general no rule gven-the idea
sought being that of becomingness to the and
adaptabty to the occasions upon which the hat is TO
be worn. The "Drecoire,' coming low down over tho
forehead and turned up the back will again be popu
lar for morning and ordinary wear and for this purpose
also the derby" which is worn low on the forehead,
like gentleman's hat with the brim rolled straight
back will be regarded Stylish well as tho English
walking hat with fiat crown, and only rolled up at the
sidcS and While these moreover. worn low on tho