Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-10-01

| IN vogue, ana OF these The frst and last will
probably take preference in exclusive cir
| Giles, navy blue having been run into the
| ground" in shop parlance.
| With combinations of velvet and wool
felt hats are employed, trimmed with velvet
10 match, and with feathers. handsome
wings, birds, or stuffed breasts with the head
attached. Velvet patterns covered with rich
real lace are in preparation for carriage. re-
| ception and visiting bonnets later in the sea
son, but for fall and early winter and par
uculariy for the street, French milliners
nave endorsed felt, and pronounce 10 not eX-
actly "ch0TnIdnfe" but ''ocOnOIniqgte," with a
shrug. for they have no love for the world
nor The idea where their customers are con
| cerned.
IMPORTED COSTUMES
French dressmakers cannot get over the
habit OF putting great deal Of material into
! toilettes which they send to America, ma
King them very fussy ard charging a very
| high price for them. They cannot under
stand that we have got over paying $500 or
StO0 Tor one dress, and $40 600 for troSSeau
which did not amount 10 much after all: and
they still send suits for which they charge
$3.50, and reception dresses for which they
charge $500, in spite OF alfthat can he done
10 prevent them. The consequence is that
they are dead stock, and that our great
houses are importing very little this season
ments.
A $3.50 dress was composed OF seal brown
SIX with overskirt and sleeveless basque Of
cream -colored casimir, brocaded with seal
brown. The overskirt was trimmed with
fringe and with the usual complement of
bows and sashes; the sleeves and skirt had
ife-pleated ruffies of silk, and the dress
was finished at the sleeves aad the neck with
Vallenclennes lace ready 10 put on, but the
whole thing could have been gotten up for
Sl5O, and would not have cost one cent more
Inc nnest brocaded cassimir is ~ per ward
but il is IS inches wide, and very little is r.,
| qulred for an overdress or TO assist the trim
ming or The skirt, provided any is used for
mat purpose, which is not ALWAYS the case
Other imported costumes are composed OF
SIX trimmed with mother-Of-pearl, and the
| az horrnn nd rwnlw -.
1neze aud the pasSamenteIie ornaments
which are avoided, but there are very few I'M
number; The latter are little too profuse
Tor good taste, and the cost involves too
much risk for these close times.
There is no indication of fur being used for
trimming TO the extent it was last winter
III lacI, Tor many reasons 10 does not remain
popular even with fashionable women VINO
IL might be supposed, would hardly consider
the question of cost The chief one is that
nuns ana other articles of street costume
must match the trimmings of the suit. This
Is sometimes very inconvenient. The furs
usually cut up for trimming are gray
can only be worn, or at any rate only looks
wei In very cold weather, and handsome
chahges are therefore required, which are not
always practicable.
Undoubtedly the handsomest winter dress
which lady can wear is a rich, complete
costume OF velvet, fur trimmed and the less
common they are the more distinguished
Ladies who are fortunate enough, therefore
10 have one need have no fear, in wearing H.
tiai lney VIII NM themselves "Out OF fash
iOn."
BLACK SILK ToILETrEs.
nEcohomy always falls back on black silks
iJ ps mat is the reason so many elegant
INDOOR dresses are in preparation this season
composed OF that perennial fabric. one of
tnese was cut In the pure Princesse STYLE
oouy ana skirt In one, no over-skIrt, only a
gore sci on at The back 10 assist in forming
the ian-l train. Neither were there any
m0unces or ple8tings on the back of the skirt
Inc only trimming consisted OF wide brafds
OfrN dc ww-g..
width OF at least three inches, and arranged
WIN tassels TO outline the drapery at the
bi,ck and form the bands for the side pocket
Wnlcn, however, was not suspended but was
mace an integral parI of the dress A bother
inooel lor dinner or reception dresses, which
Is sample OF many, has pulled front
eugeu Win rows OF Marguerite pleating and
plain, pleated train surmounted nv small
panf, shlrred at the top. The putting is scant
ana not shIrred in front, but at the sides as
was remarked OF cashmere costumes Bows
however, are often placed the whole lenS,b
OF the front from the neck down to the eiSe
OF ne pufing upon the skirt or over-skirt
ram culIass basques, cut rather deep and
fastened a. the back, are considered STYLISH
particularly for young ladies; but they arr
lnconyenient for persons who have not a
maid 10 as Sist them in dressing, and perhans
on this account are all the more a fest n
high fashion. Such dresses as these are SuS-
ceptlole OF many additions 10 increase their
Gressy appearance when that is necessary or |
desirable. A tablier or shawl drained as an
apron, and a lace jacket, constitute a com
plete and elegant lace overdress. and these |
artlcles are TO be found in almost every
Iady's wardrobe. A black velvet sleeve,ass
jacket, on the contrary adds lust the touch
OF warmth or solidity which is Desirable for
d sven AT nome" or an evening entertain |
ment OF social rather than fashionable |
character
But it must not be supposed that all |
dresses, or even the majority, are made /
plain in order that ladies may air their old /
lace or velvet garments over them. No; there !
are many blue silks with square bodies aud /
square, pulled tabllers outlined with Rus /
sian lace, or very fair copy of the genuine
antique. There are silks, also, with Jackets
and tabliers striped with velvet, which is /
striped with mother OF pearl, and velvets al |
most covered with laces, highly effective II i
not costly as Chantilly, some of IL having
the effect of raised embroidery But rich /
sllk oralds, mother OF pearl, wide Melted pas /
menteries OF lace-like design and textnra
are the newest things in trimmings for hIaek
SILK ana olack velvet, and are costly as rich /
real lace.
FURLINFD SILK CLoAKs
SIX cloaks are a revival OF a very old /
fashion, and if the fabric is of as high quality
as IL ought to be, constitute very beautifil
garments. Last winter they were used Drin-
rias1d ; as wraps ior The opera and for car
rage wear; this year they will probably De
treated with more distinction for very rich |
SILK 90 inches wide, Cathedral" silk As il
II ,s, called, very much like what useI TO be
known as Antwerp silk, only wider, is i'm
ported expressly for them, and will be made
INTO sacques and dOlmans, with deep sleeves,
% wei os iuOO GRAY. striped
coney, taken from the animal at a certain
season OF the year is the only fur ever used
lor the lining OF cloaks, because the only one
which can be worn with velvet or any rich /
fabric without danger of the hairs coming
on upon it. A handsome lining costs SJI
the silk "a yard and a halt wide) is SO per
yard; so the price for a complete garment /
with silk clasp, (sl50,) does not seem very
exorbitant. An imported one no better in 1
any respect, probably not SO handsome. is
$3.50. ="
WALKING JACKETS.
Basques, jackets and dolmans are all cut
long in front and short upon the back CloTb
cloaks take that form also, probably to pre-
vent interference with the drapery which "a
massed at the back OF the skirt This pecn-
llarity came in with the dolman, and he
longs 70 IL, though the difference between |
the depth at the back and 'front.' was mnch
less marked when ii first appeared than now.
Cloth jackets are otherwise plainly but
closely cut, well shaped TO the figure and ac- 1
companied by coat sleeves neatly SHAPED 10
the arm. The feature OF them is the trim |
ming, which consists OF Than or plated |
braids OF different widths aud different st yles |
combined most effectively. Last winter the |
trimming was composed OF the pipings and |
folds OF heavy black silk, but the combIna- |
lions OF brafds are more striking without be- |
Ing at all offensive to good taste. The mar |
row width braids are often formed by o sue |
cession Of loops, and are enclosed In rows Of |
the wider brafda- which 70 Il