Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1875-10-08
Fall Fashions.


When women return from three or four
months sojourn in the country, the first
thing they want is a bonnet. No subject
probably has such an absorbing and peren-
NAL interest forthe average female mind as
this one Of bonnet How does my bonnet
look or, how do look in my bonnet! are
questions which even the most Intelligent
women ask every time they make change
in their head gear. 1t nay be also because
bonnets are always in an unknown quantity.
No woman ever knows how much or how lit
tie on one she is going to get for her mon
ey. They set all laws of proportion and
value at defiance. Saucer or coal-scuttle,
the price is always the same /; they are the
subjects Of every carricious wind that blows,
and economy is out of the question when
you once place yourself in the hands OF a
milliner. Shapes are in great variety, but
small, rather oval crown and straight brlm,
which admits of full trimming beneath, Is
the fayorite for married ladies. Young girls
wear a pretty miniature edition OF the "Ru-
bens," trimmed with velvet and fenther.
Bonnets of velvet very much trimmed with
lace will appear AZ the season advances.
Feathers, birds, and the wings and heads of
birds, are more used for felts. Russian
lace, Vallencieures and real thread and
chantilly arc all applied to velvet bonnets in
conjunction with velvet flowers, the fine
laces being sometimes used to cover or
- veil''-as Il i called-the velvet. - Rus
sian" lace is a novelty, expensive. but coarse
and not likely to acquire much vogue here,
as persons who could afford it would prOba-
bly, prefer genuine antique, Of which 1t Is
only an imitation.
VELVET AND WOOL.
The handsome street costumes wore last
winter, composed Of silk and velvet, and
very expensive combination. In the spring
there was sort Of rage for cashmere with
silk mounting, and combinations OF silk
and wool have been very general for
- standby" ever since. This season the
preference is for wool combined with velvet,
and several different and elegant yet not ex-
trayagant methods are shown among the de-
signs Of leading houses.
The newest form consists OF skirt and
coat sleeves of plain, rich velvet, black OF
seal brown. worn in connection with basque
or oyerskirt of fine, soft wool in large
plain check of black and white or brown
and gray. Some of the TUNES are bOrdered
with fringe matching the shades of wool
but woollen fringe has been used 50 largely
upon very common woollen costumes that
this seems to vulgarize them, and the more
distinguished are absolutely plain and free
from any trimming Whatever, the cost being
put into the quality of the velvet, the fine
ness of the wool and apparently the size of
the check, for the blocks largest in size and
not cut up by the narrow bars which form
mixed plaid are considered the most desira-
Bile and bring the highest price. There are
accessories, however, in the way of velvet
loops or sashes at the back and velvet 'ars
on the sleeves and double velvet collar, one
turned down and narrow, haring one
standing at the neck, which completes the
costume and emphasizes its air Of distinc-
ton. The basques still retain the plain
cuirasse form but the oyerskirts are most
of them made with back not very full and
which is gracefully draped instead Of being
cut straight or as 4 tabler only.
The regulation street Costume, hOwevcr,is !
of cashmere and velvet, the velvet being
used for sleeves and for collars and piping
upon the basque, and introduced into the !
trimming of the skirt For example,
scant gathered hounce Of the velvet may be /
placed between two OF the cashmere, side
pleatel or deep upper hounee Of velvet, /
with shirred beading, may he placed over I
two narrow ones of cashmere, the lower one /
gathered, the second siie-pleated. the over !
Skin, being borierei with 4 narrow side |
pleatng of cashmere, which falls next the |
velvet, and is finished with fold OF narrow |
ruffie Of velvet above This style with a
small style Of velvet waves adapt effective |
trimming.
A iavorite method Of managing a cash
mere skirt Is to plf it upon the front very |
wide, but not full shirr the sides and add |
an overskirt to the back only, 50 as to form
the requisite drapery. Seal brown. navy
blue and invisible green are the dark shades
most in vogue. and of these the first and last
will probably take preference in exclusive
circles, navy blue having been " run iato
the ground" in shop parlance
With combinations Of velvet and wool,
felt hlts are employed, trimmed with velvet
to match and with feathers, handsome wings,
birds, IT stuffed breasts. with the head at
tachei Velvet patterns, covered with rich,
real lace, are in preparation for carriage,
reception and visiting bonnets later in the
season, but for fall and early winter, and
particularly tor the street, French milliners