, 1875-11-27
THE ART or DINING.
A Description OF "t1le Cosmopol-
itan Dinucr."
4 Few Well Established Rnles for the III.
spcctfon Of American House,
keepers.

keepers.
HarEtr&s Ad0n,tns for Defender.
Tc aro br no rnoans tho lfrsk to acknowledge tha
weigbty claim wh,ch tie above subject l,As made
good upon antiquity aud civilization Even Ia
thcno taser days Owon Meredith has sung mc1o-
diously in pt..so Of duner, while FROM out Of
tho lnurty rant OF old Enp'is, proverbs t,ero Ia.
Ruos voice warning ns that tho heart Of man
lies In the stomach Do Tits a. IL n.ny, II Ia
truo that ktud intont is of tmeA warped,
generous Instinct reprcsaeu. Il merry speech
transformed ,nto biting criticism, by TINT aw.
fu! American nightmare. dyspepsia, II is a
fact, as wall kuowu ns II Is lamentable, that tho
"srcat American nation does not, as rulc
dine woIl. 70 clovcrly combine Tho VARIOUS elc-
menta Of a rcpast 60 that each successive ono
shall play upon and harmonioualy offAce tho last,
10 MI hrt With which we nre only just beco1ninR
acqnainsod.
II weso crtlous, eren Interesting for = stu.
dent Of his kind to note tho effect OF climate
upon she charac;cr;sttcs OF nasiona IN this rec
spoct In Russia, Swrleu. aud Norway. where
prolonged and biting winsers neceaalato action
and largo supplies Of animal boat, meals are fro
auout aud OF great duration. Five lloarty re-
pnsts per diem, among which dinner Is the cblet
ono, Are tho common allowances III those north
ern localities. Tha principal moal Ia lerafded
by cold collation. partAkon Of on route for tho
l,ntng-roo,n, In amall anto-room tho Eueeta
pause heforo a eIuaIl table spread with art,cles
creative OF appetite and thirst, such NJ red hor-
ring, sardincs. caviaro. chooses. sharp pick.cs.
and arrack, the native whisky. Thus stimulated,
4 much larger Tnpaat 10 mado than ~orld other
wiso DO possible. When this custom, hoUever,
ia introduced regardless OF climatic requirements
il ia pruhe - conduce Htugetahncss, as in so1nc
pattH Of Germany Again, tho glo@ing mother
GARTH and ardon. skiss OF Italy III rnieh
her children With their best proseryatlYes usainst
their combined iutoualtv OF heat, Fruits and
sltade, st,ccuiant rcfreshing. cooling, form tho
nat.onRl breakfast and tho cbfnt atnIl' OF othHr
n'ehle, being freely partsken OF with reauIts
which might bo much less favorable under
cooler Bhy. nature. amtdst those woudro'1a
adaptations, Il not neRlectful OF tho necds OF
animals, as may. tie instance1 by Eorwesiau
custom. Within tho Arctic circle, wbcro tho
winters arc long twilight, and the high lantls
SO barren that people snbslst upon brcad Inaslo
from The tcnder bar OF tho bi,ch tree, tho cattle
ate fed upon dried tish caught III shcto Htoricd
forls, whose watnss, tho FoEtuuatua purse OF
Norway. stretch far inland " dnaky forcsta OF
pine.
Ne would not bo understood AZ intending to
dlate upou Ito pleasnics Ut the table. Our plea
iy this AL thinpH tuay be we'll or lily done vi
may tlius badly Just a. Te mas act or work Ind
II. and the three are closely connected. Ihie.
without ,rea1ing upon tho debAtaLo land OF OIL.
curealsls1, or falling into tho Slough OF Despoud
yc!ept Rluttony We desire to aos down fu order
feS wcll-estabhsh he'd rulca for tue inspection Of
Americnn house9eeperB. We only delay in Of
der to add TIN: tho appetite nav bo taught to
cravo improper food Just 81 it Ia susceptible Of
being trained to GO Ia ptoper shnte toward sue-
talnlne tho physical vel. .being Of man. and even
aGo:dtng him qualification. The parvego1s OF
tur t!sine generation Hhou!d bear this yell III
Nlud Much moro might bo said upon ibis
branch Of the subject. but 1t les beyond tho
Bcore of tho praseut article, whose proposed
limitations Al tbs Roooral Euies IT diunor-Riy-
Ing. ..,..- .
Thcso rules take 90 basis whnt is roalfy tho
cosmopolitan dinner, Known rs ths GfHe7' q {ts
Russe, IN which the cou1sss arc handod in ROTH
tion to each quest Hlthont having been placed
tho greatest appreciation ct the amy winch
imagination has orer appetite. ho:h becumiuE
speedily closea bg tue eight OF dihhcs henpod
viii. food, covering tho sab1o. a tastefnlly
adorned board pieascs tho eye, md Buch dccnra-
tious may he carried to o gieas extent. Fruit
and flowers are hlHays obtaintb!e !; hue fiunn,
glass and china arc nlnoat necosalties. In Euro
poan families. who're china ID an halrlooul, HEacs.
iul hEu1ea A1e p'hcod nstng t!>e table, aomet1ca
useful {as when holding haskoH with salt, Or
vaets II vol, wi11. sometimes mtrsly oruanon-
tnl. Eren huge vases worth their Ueght is si}vee
aro 60 placed, or Ao"etY growing in Sevres pota,
| or strawberry plants zach with three or
four berries, one plant tofore each Rueat, rs
| fashion dictated for two winters ut = certain
European court. TIM chandelier 1nhy be hung
| with tonors, hut wAx-candes 10 china OF silver
candolabrn Rtvo ticher look to tho table, and .
| softer light as we'll. A round tnbIo IL also moro
graceful, and tonds to mike the conversation
Euose general, aud lepce moro lively. To tho
porEonal BupcrvtBlon u tho hostesa she guests
| xr4 nast frequently tuhaht0d fur such graceful
suggestions Of ait aB are but too rarely scen in
| this country UPON similar occasions. This ia
chiefly to be deploFed. because such crttstio
treasures challenge attention, nod lead the con-
| vcrsatlcn to higher aud mora Interesting
ground than tue ord'uary cbit-ehnt Of the day.
| Tho laws governing tho fepxst itaolf Rre un.
| a1terable as those Of The Modes and pataiauH. Ia
| Countries who're oyAtera abound they may be
served before the bonp upau the half shell will
a,ica os lemon cut leogthwlse to the nusnbsl
| Of four {smal) cut small upon each piRte,
1 These and small cfabs 10 summer are aiouo nd
n.albla bnfuro t4o arrival Of SOUP. mud fortu thu
| pnly COURSE LACED upon the table, bolnE thott
when dinner IL announced.
HouV.-In view OF The many heavy coNrsos K
follow tho most elegant aoup is clear botsillon
although rchcr onos Rro secu. The bester rult
eppeata to bo thss tho repAst, beElnulng with Al
tain point, and thence docliuo. Buct > soup q
mock-tursle, for 1nstance, appcsrs too rich bs
tween osstcFa and nsh !; the appetite should b
gradually tempted.
Fish follows pc1t, mad with It ths invar[abi
boiled potaso. loealy and whate. "au nataret
With oalmon, boIlad rfoo IL frequently uaed
sersed - . ga.nlahiDg. Caro should be taken Il
see that tho tish chosen Is In Season.
Entteoe to tho numbor Of one or tuo ara d
! ,1guer, AZ s1ao hsl. In sorvinG, tbs course
Should be handed from alternate ends Of th
| table each time. A dpuer may be mado long 0
short BY adding or rctranchtnH ontrcea 90
reiepes. ~ tbs lightos dlsbea Are callod. III
soup aud fish should uoysr be omitted. .
,oaat with vegetables follows tho first entret
mud altar SECOND The game conzse IL /
ordes. In thla connection, IT. Ia a moote
point whether 10 Hesvo ourrtnt Jelly, vhic
| barmonIzes With tho GaMo favor, Ds dresss
tate betUcen cout1aat and harmony Ia dFes.
Either iH III good taate both may be ofoTed
only one should DO accepted. The yeRetabla
with game should be very delicate ones* 10 q
| nut To prodouliuase what Ii considered the anos
COURSE. boiled celery with cream sauce, rIc
croquettes, and mushrooms arc ail suitable, til
: t!rst being ssyorite d.sh In France. The sui