National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1875-12-08

YEDo, September 90 1875.
"You cannot say 'Kikko' until you have seen
'Nikko,' I" the Japanese adage has IL. Kikko, the
beautiful, is found only in perfection upon the
hills ard amidst the groves Of Nikko, whore, Of
all places in Japan, nature most freely gives an
added charm to art, and where the sacred trsdi-
tons Of the past still religiously preserved.
The progress Of "Western civiliza tion" In Japan,
within the past few years, has been the theme Of
sdmiring comment the world over. But even
civilization from the West has its disadvantages.
In Japan, for instances, It treats somewhat too
closely upon the heels of tradition and sentiment.
Amidst the hurry and hustle OF change, II IL apt
to hus,Ie away Unfortunately the good with the
bad. Old temples and older shrines, beautiful
yashukis and lovely gardens, must take their
chances with crooked streets and filthy canals,
whose alteration the progressive municipal mind
has decreed. There is no cause for complaint in
this, perhaps, but without doubt valid reason for
regret. As an unworthy representative Of ''ths
most progressive people Of the world, cir" am
willing to admit the utlitsrian beauties OF rail-
roads, iron mills, wooden factories' and the like;
still feel psng Of
SOMETHING AKIN TO RKxoRsE
when see tall brick chiuneys usurping the place
Of graceful temple roofs and the iron steed"
dashing ruthlessly through the midst Of quaint
grayeyards. AL this Is preparatory to the remark
Nikko. The iron steed has never snorted there;
me tail prieE ehimnies have never eieuded those
.ssee Nikko and die" says another Jap.nese
confess to q slight unwiiiIngness to shufilng Cd
this mortal coil at the present writing, shall
atone for the omission oy telling you something
Mike is situated about one hundred miles to
the north Of Tokei, (Yedo) It Is the burial place
Of Iyeyas, greatest OF the Tycoons, and founder
In lnf ha Tnk na a ne. NAh Lad
Japan until 1858, when the Mikado, or spiritual
ruler, took his rightful place as head Of the ma
tion Of which for centuries he and his ancestors
greatest Of the Tyeoons." Il ia, in fact, tres
Be really welded all the power Of "Lisutenant Of
the Empire" IL was not until after death that be
received the titles and honors usually conferred
fbe . point upon 1t, Iyeyss was an usurper. As
guardian Of Hideyoshi, infant sou OF mis- great
predecessor, Taikosams, "the monkey taced," be
power in the name Of his infant ward held It in
his own.
IYEYAs DOES NOT AgPEAR
in very flstterng light in the chronicles OF the
Win no snail prospect t Of susces, strenuous ~
forts for the conversion Of all Japan. But the
Jesuits were not unbiased witnesses. To their
religion Of Christ in Japan. il can truthfaiiy Be
answered that he withheld his hand until In their
fAnatical zeal the devotees Of the new faith at
When he struck the blow descended with savage
violence, and Ohristianlty, notwithstanding the
fair promise Of its Introduction, became in Japan
Of their martyred proselytes in after days bore
eloquent witness against the intolerant spirit Of
the Jesuit fathers themselves In their time Of
Iyeyas Undoubtedly LEFT his mark upon the his.
tory OF his country. Although o man OF war, and
one who had made his way 70 power through vio-
of peace. By his practical foresight and shrewd
diplomacy the powerful mobiles who had hitherto
kept Japan in continual turmoil were firmly
bound down by code Of laws which preserved
national peace and unity for more than two hun
dIed years.
pomp and parade at Nikko. He himself had Sc
lected this spot to be his burial place some years
previous. Alter the manner Of the East, he was
MSp hcn PH 81 great Gigniy
under the title "1llustrious Gem" The place Of
his tepulchre came to be considered one Of the
ally visited By thousands Of pilgrims. With the
charge in the national religion from Buddhism
70 Shinhcism all Buddhist titles are revoked.
But 1yeyas is still known by the most honorable
name,
"LIGHT OF THE EAsT"-To sHo.
II was on pleasant afternoon In mid
summer that our party got under way for
Nikko; There were i've OF ps-tvo ladies
again into nautical phraseology) acted as
convoy 10 two married couples, or, perhaps, more
properly as q sort OF tail to . hymeneal kite. We
one "pony trap" which it was resolved 70 convey
to the foot Of the sacred mountains whether the
roads were good, bad or indifferent. Half dozen
jim. rtck-tshas exaggerated baby waRons) drawn
BY coolies completed the oortege. The first two
days Of the journey were marked BY no incident
specially worthy Of notice: Travelling At q
diem, resting at noon and night In Jsyansse "tes-
houses"
teristics Of q Japanese hosiery and It's inmates.
Comfort you may or may not md, as you are dis
posed. clean mats, rooms separated only by
Dne is sure 70 fnd even at the humbiest tea house
The innocent curiosity and the polite attentive
ness Of the people, big and little, are charming
gaze Of the iordiy hotel clerk. But then there
are no chairs, no tables, no carpets, no; but
why pursue the plant Of those good people who
he juneles Of African There are enough solid dis
,omiorts everywhere to crowd out ofmind thoughts
of those that at least partly imaginary In ia
mats are SO clean and no native house 50 well
scrubbed that this lively gentleman does not
have therein his exits and his entrances. He
With him. The Investigations which he makes It
q his constant duty to pursue, are not, as men,
Der Of our party remarked, conducive to somno-
On the third day of ourjourney l
WE CROSSED THE roNKeAwA RIVER |
md entered Q country differing widely In appear
lnce from that We had just traversed. Hills and
forests OF oak and pine took the place Of level rice
ields, while the road changed from something
very like dixie TO broad avenue, lined on either
'ide with grand old cryptomerias. Words Of mine
.anpot fttingly describe the impressive effect OF
ms change. AZ FIRST sight seemed that this
stately temple. The dusk Of the summer tvi-
light was Just settling over the landscape as We
Uttered az, Il; AZ raj as ne eys could reach the
stretched before US. Some OF the trees were
ynsrled 1nd twisted into the most fantastic
VIII tSs
ay for miles beneath canopy OF green, the great
branches INTERVENING above ne. For any miles
avenue 81
1t was on this road that IN olden times the dai-
MOS Tor nobles) Travelled on their pilgrimages 70
he grave Of Iyeyas. In the majority Of instances
hese journeys were by no means evidences Of
evtrence. They could hardly be called yolun-
airy, a. the successors of Iyeyas, following the
obscence from m he dsnios
,elled them to pay this mock homage at his
brine. Policy, as well Is pride, dictated this
ourpeys By isnd-they were not allowed % travel
~ sea-the Tycoons succeeded IN at once humIli-
ting the naughty spirit OF the proud mobiles and
npoyerishipg them BY the expenses OF these en-
NOR WAS THE SHRINE WITHOUT TOKENS
age called Imaichi another road joins the one
rom Yedo. Like the latter, Il Is lined with
sIge cryptomerias. The two roads meet each
mid Of green. This road WAS travelled annually
" high huge (court noble,) the envoy of the
hikado, bearing the sacred "gohei," (pieces OF
thus even the spiritual sovereign OF Japan paid
homage to the memory Of the man who appro-
)riated to himself the second place in the En-
,ire without even the form oil approval from the
o.