New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1875-10-23
THE FASHIONS.

nails light camels hair silk combined with soit wool
plads and stripes, the materials most suitable Tor
wear at present. This costume worn for walk
ing while 1t is st fresh and new VIII
become later an excellent travelling costume (;
and a felt hat artstically trimmed with silk and
velvet OF the same shades as the costume makes an eo
CANT and appropriate finish the dress. New hats are
always adopted with hesitation than new wraps
one feels certain disrust OF the hat or bonnet; II
may prove and cannot easily get acehs
toned ~ it, Few toll the 1t requires TO go
out wearing the latest fashion in bcncs But after long
weeks of alterations and consultations the bonnet ques
ton is happily settled and doubts and hesitation are at
an end Three different shapes will be the most sought
aud economical il fashion that last years felt shapes
easily rcmodeled and retrimmcd at very nfto cost
The picturesque aud artistic Rembrandts reyiyodnf"
and the soft brm has upward turn at the
left side. The trimming ia scarf Of soft silk ostrich
plumes antique ornament Of igree or chased silver
and low al the back cluster of shaded crimson roses
This hat should be black The Montagnard hats have
stately high crowns nearly covered with nuHy
feather ruches and nodding ostrich tips, form
ing elegant and striking appearance. The FAMILIAR
roundtoppcd Derby is also revived notwithstanding It's
extreme simplicity 1t not inharmonious in its aspect
There arc beside toques OF old time popularity, rather
more arng than before and the dressy handsome wide
brim felt OF crcan-coor aud fawn, and white shades
set back the head and thereby forming an Gure
Gle with its brm. The facing Is OF light creamy SILK
SHRED aud beneath IL roll OF velvet with NAT bow
above the forehead in this may be placed rose cluster
o. white pnks carnations or geraninm leaves at pleas
BONNET TRIMMINGS.
The modified bonnets are ~ graceful as they are al
mrable for good taste. The brm Is OF the narlng hao
shape but the is smaller and the sides reseoie
the long forgotten modest cottage bonnet IN fitting the
head so closely Ribbon strings are attached to TIC
backs and women who hoped to protect their ears this
will tnl
strincs are simply to be crossed behind and care
lessly brought forward for ornamental dispisy'
Black lace is also used in the same manner.
Renaissance couture is represented in full trimmings
OF loops, fiat bows, knots, and quaint arrange
lnent of the very full racc trimmings rendered more
coquettish BY being placed upou one side BLACK Nee'
bonnots seem to be The exception Seal brown velvet as
well as felt is apparently the most stylish and most popn
lar color The fashionable birds bird with bronIed
blue wings and the purple-red anager Then follows an
enormous quantity OF starllngs robins, huhh2 oius
and golden headed orioles. With the birds no"ers arc
used in great abundance. There are ferns enough Ia
stock feruery grasses and little grapes upon when the
soft gray bloom yet fingers. The ornaments ot the poe'
include flowers and fruit intermnglei There are
roses everywhere long-stemmed, and others massed
I'm clusters the pink and blue lotus blossoms
OF EgyDt, and just snch flowers besides as one
finds in quaint old fashioned gardens, pinks rch cal
tons and purple heart sease, rosemary and starry mar
grlcrtcs juniper berries, brown ana shlhES' t's vi
braeken and branches Of heather A charming race
trimming inside the brm, indeed IL Tuche OF closely
curling ostrich feathers There others Of the gray,
dowpv feathers from beneath the peacOcks tall anu
riches ~ breast feathers stiff and Incorporating are
tho black and coloed pOmpOns and sharp wings Of brd
pon hgllcrovned hats, SO one turns Win reii
10 Rembrandt or Rubons hat, with its picturesque,
wider1nS brm turnc mp at one side, us black noahs
plume and ornament Lace Is very little used upon boa
os,ba (pr,I lace
pensvc its limitations and therefore IS ued
snarpy The fayorite ribbon is soft and loosely woven
Very elegant ribbons doubefaccd. thick ana heaVy
AS SATIN in fact satin on one side ana grossrah on
the other It is difficult to imagine new coors, for
every tint and shade Of the old colors mas Oeeh eA
haustcd. There cold notified srays called " granite
and dark coors in silks aid cashmees so dark as u Dc
called "inyi,bles." and there is blue Plum crushed
strlbcrry cardinal and seal brown OF decided shade
The art If TRIMMING IL ma. lies in knowing rNacty
when TO bring the lining speak 10 the fore. The
facing 10 pleatings is turned back TO show; oyel
skirt are drapei 10 show IT, The accessories 10 Tue
toilet this very charming and graceful Tie
combination OF coors however requires artistic SKILL FOR
dead or cod color a. gray London smoke, or any
neutral tint should never be united To another Of the
same sort At late exhibition OF goods, silk costume
OF delicate ivory tint beautifully contrasted with
sceves SIX tt and rolling collar OF rich navy blue velvet
DEEss MATERIALS.
Last season 4 great deal of silk was used Tor pan
dresses Now quantities Of gauze and tule internXed
riye a wonderfully beautiful effect to dress They are
nlau. st,1ped and couded. Beneath and in combine
tn are silks of opal blue violet, gold straw, and blue
and there are clouds OF lace, thread flowers and India
woods of cobweb texture dTapcd with long garlands OF
male tea roses and Others of pink with very dark foliage
The coors are all very delicate. Dead white or blae
white is no longer seen Whatever the fabric, over 1t Is
cast a lovely creamy, ivory, or rosy tint, and relief
Al VIZ m
An evening toilet conspicuous only for its perfect taste
and delicate beauty, was made OF white ddmdsse. lhe
from, Of the skirt covered with peaings OF tuei
ule tahlier dotted and edged with PINK roseDudS
half hidden In dark moss Inc vide f0set9loL Ssnes
lined with brown satin anu caught up IN FOODS ny
clusters 81 roebuds Tie two waists, Sl ana low were
trimmed to correspond The entire front Of DARK blle
satir dress was covered with rows Of creamy Nacn-
cirnnes lace The basque had similar trimming, ana tue
long sleeves striped cream coIoet ana blue sl;ln
alternating with NaeuclenueS hse.tlnk oh lle basque
and falling like gfldle. was VIDE Iefsah galooh
made Of tny coored glass beads crealcolOied SATIN
sLirt had full train silk brCcaded with velvet Car
dna red facius visible from the edges OF the over
slir which was b0rdcrcd with black ostrich feather
riches charming toilet OF rOse-cOl0rcd satin had
sfrned errp ddmdSSf ovcrsnrt and sleeves Inc hlgh
corsage was ornamented wth clusters OF purple ana
white vioet.. The whole was trimmed Win deephet
ted chenille fringe ., a.. -.,o. -.
and GRACEFUL styles. cos;lmc, dcm'-tiain, OF seal
brown satin with raised velvet a1abesuea was United 10
erosgrin skirt and sleeves Ol the same shade AT the
hae thc Illcr was GrnpCd with cluster or succession
of brIod ong loops and lows Of both fabrics. The tiny
muff OF the material was Orlthehteu WIN " pou-
quet of phur ana PINK roses; lht'o h,'G nuns a..
new feature of costumes or this sort. y black velvet
train costume had tanier and long cuirss basque OF
-cnlnred embossed cames hair. third superb
Princnsse t,let was made OF rOi ben velvet and grO
grain trimmed with wide rich gimp ana decp fringr o
Chenille and silk The mut OF velvet WAS Ornanented
Win cluster of white purple yioe,s. Other equally
costly toilets dinner and carriage ART combinations o
,an,s comel's hair in three shades TWO OF brown and
one OF gray aud silk velvet; jacquard casnilrs
of wool with raised silk figures and gfos-
,.in /, and superb oyerdresses OF heavy Siclienue
broc,de Uyeraid with soale-ke figures, velvet and
1.Isslss 1kG flrV
toilets are frightened by flcings OF cardinal red Llght
SILKS have also coIored lacngs for example, brown can
have faeiugs pink light strawberry. The extreme
fulnnss of all drapery il mlsscd az the back therefore
the tied-back skirts likely 10 be worn during the
season: liz fact very closely the French shirts
held bck that there ia possible room FOR tournuIe.
II may safely Do asserted that ournures are abandoned