Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1875-11-10

The New Observation-Disclosures of CIOtI
W0rn-Business Gnrments--Hats ant

Worn-Business GnrmenIs-Hats and
Furs.
From the N Y Tribune.
The first addition to the outer appar-
ell made in the autumn is an overcoat fo1
chilly mornings and evenings. All new
overcoats are very long in the skirt,
and in this alone is there any rule, fo1
there shapes are diversified. Surtouts
and sacks are both worn, The more
dressy surtouts are long, double-breast-
ed frocks, with silk Innings AMI velvet
collars. Sacks are long and shaped to
the figure, and may be either single or
double breasted. The greater number
are double breasted, and there is still a
preference for single breasted sacks
with fly fronts. The fashionable color
for overcoats is dark gray in the pep
per and-salt mixtures known as COX
fords." Dark blue, brown, and black
colored overcoats are likewise worn.
Thu materials are ribbed diagonal and
basket-woven cloths. Heavier cloths,
that are called fur beavers and elysians,
will be used for winter overooats. OPP
era overcoats and those for other full
dress occasions are made of smooth
cloth cloths in light or brown shades.
Reefng sacks of tine heavy material
used for overcoats arc made up very
warmly, and worn before putting on
winter overcoats by gentlemen who do
notwear the light overcoats described
for autumn.
Some fashionable tailors insist upon
making everything en- suite, and posi-
lively decline to make coat unless they
are also permitted to make waistcoat
of the same material to wear with it.
Cloths with fine minute diagonal lines,
twi1led like nuns serge, are preferred
to the broad, coarse-looking diagonal
cloths worn year ago. Dark blue
suits, of invisible shades that arr little
more definite than blue black. or even
more desirable than they were during
the summer. Wide bindings of galloon
are fashionable tor edging coats, but
men of plain tastes consider these trim
mings too pronounced and snowy, and
prefer instead narrow roll or small
corded edge of braid. Men who dress
in the hight OF fashion wear wide pan
falcons, cut straight, with no spring
over the ankles.
Travelling and business suits for fall
and winter display the prevalent taste
for extreme English styles Large
plaids are chosen for the whole suit of
coat, waistcoat and trousers. The pre-
vailing colors are iron gray and dark
brown, though other dark grounds are
worn. The materials are English and
Scotch goods, also the rough-threaded
Knickerbocker clothes, and the soft,
flexible cancels hair, closely resembling
in fabric and design those in use for
ladies. The business coat is double
breasted reefng sack, cut longer than
sacks have been for many years; its
edges are double-stitched-not bound.
The trousers are very large. AS these
business suits are for general everyday
wear, tailors seeksto vary the manner of
making them. Sometimes they are in
the full English style, with single
breasted Newmarket coat fastened by
from one to three buttons, with flaps at
the waist and pockets. With such q
coat the waistcoat is high to wear with
a scarf. Plaids and other dark mixtures
known as suitings are used for the coat,
waistcoat, and pantaloons. Undress
suits of heavy blue cheviot or of cloth
of excellent quality are In favor with
young men.
Reception suits is the name tailcrs
give to the suit selected for day recep-
tions and for informal dinners where
full dress is not required, for making
visits, for church, concerts, afternoon
drives, etc. This reception suit is a
black frock coat, black waistcoat, and
either black or gray cashmere panta-
looms. The frock coat is double-breasted
and very long in the skirt. It is made
of finely twilled (diagonal) cloth, and
sometimes of basket woven cloth, though
the first is preferred. The edges may
be bound with wide galloon, but it is
far neater to have narrow cord bind
ing. The waistcoat of the same mate
rial, is single breasted, with notched
collar and buttons rather low; there is
a certain shape peculiar to waist-coats
that are to be worn with frock-coats.
For receptions the pantaloons should
also be black, but for ordinary visiting
they are usually of light gray cashmere,
cut in large, full English shape. Stripes
are more used than plalds for the col
ored pantaloons of this suit; there are
gray grounds, striped with black, or
black with white, or brown with black;
there are also notified gray grounds,
with indistinct lines that do not form
regular stripes. Dark brown coats and
waistcoats of almost invisible tints are
sometimes chosen instead of coal black
cloths; blue coats are not as popular
for reception suits as they were last
winter. Diamond figured cloths and
those with crinkled threads, or with
sleazy woven threads, that give the ap.
pearence of broken checks, are worn by
those who are supplied with diagonal
coatings, and IN many cases plain smooth
cloth is chosen for the coat and waist
coat.
Full dress suits of black are made of
less lustrous cloths than were formerly
used. French and West of England
cloths are preferred for such snits.
The dress coat is made longer than ever,
and it's fronts roll very low; It is un-
changed otherwise. The single breast
ed waistcoat is cut low to match the
coat, New black dress hats have bell
shaped crowns six and three quarter
inches high, with narrow band that is
fastened by small black buckle. The