Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1875-04-14
slahhnap & 1onruai
WEDNESDAY. APRIL u. 1875.
Journeyings in Europe...yI.

he broke part ot the halulc WIllch WIS
soon replaced then another part was lost
and replaced and so on, till the whole orgi-
nal knife had disappeared and inits stead was
a new one which he continued to look upon
as his grandmothcrs present, though there
was not in it single particle of the old knife
So IL is with Pest. Though founded in Ro-
man times and existing all through The mid
die ages, It has suffered so much frou inya-
sions. inundations, and fires, that nothing of
the old time remains. Like the knife, it has
been destroyed and replaced, piece by piece,
many times over Though ancient in his
tory, il is now in its external form, aud for
aught It has TO show might have been foun-
ded during the present century. Since 1861
when Hungary received the semi-political
independence which she now enjoys great
progress has been made in building up aud
omamcntiug Pest. The finest buildings m
the city have been erected since that time,
and if improvement continues az the same
pace, the capital Of Hungary will, at mo- dis
tant day, be one Of the handsomest cities in
Eastern Europe Arriving ON The eve Of a
holiday and fastening through on my way
to the Caucasus, / had no opportunity 20 see
more than the outside Of The city which dif-
fers very little from the new, or rather from
the new parts Of old European cities. IN
the hotel. however, saw one difference
which pleased me. On my arrival every one
was taking supper in the court yard of the
hotel. in the open air round about 10 the
area tropical plant, were placed all was
brilliantly lighted with gas, aud a gipsy
band was giving excellent music. Very
cheerful and agreeable, and something which
enjoyed immensely, after the journey from
Vienna. Next day, took drive TO the
town opposite Pest, which is called Buda, or
in Ge man, Oien. 1t is situated on a hin
about three hundred feet high, and com
mands a beautiful view OF Pest aud The river
Danube. On the Danube between Pest and
Buda, is a colossal suspension bridge which
occupied nine years ia building, from 1910
till 1910. 1t Is the work Of an English en-
gineer, Clark Its whole length is twelve
hundred and thirty feet aud the longest span
is six hundred feet Buda Is built at the
foot and on the summit Of an oblong hill,
which is equally difficult of access from every
side On the summit is the fortress and
royal castle, and many buildiug- Of old date,
not one Of which has any architectural
beauty or interest In general the impress
sion produce on one is that Buda is an old.
! diugy, minteresting place, with monotonous
buildings and a population only half alive.
All the activity is concentrated in Pest,
which is bustlng, commercial place, not
half formed, but developing rapidly. In the
evening made an excursion TO Margrets
Island, small tractof land in the middle
Of The Danube, about ten minutes above
Pest. bv the steamer This little island is a
favorite place of resort in summer for the
inhabitants Of Pest. It is wei laid out lia-
a nice grove and park and an excellent res
taurant where one can dine OF sup with per
feet satisfaction. In addition there is an
orchestra, which, though not equal TO that
in Vienna. may be listened to with
pleasure. The island receives its name
from Margret, daughter Of Bella w.
King Of Hungary She lived and died
here as a nun, and ruins Of the cloister She
occupied are still shown to the curious tray
elcr Early on the morning Of the following
day we set out for Odessa by the way of
Eperies and North Hungary, on the new rail
way which crosses the Carpathian mountains
coming out in Galicia. This Is a very inter
estiug part Of the kingdom. and one which
much desired TO see. For a considerable
distance around Pest the country is quite
level; the further one goes, however toward
the North, the greater the variety becomes
and as the region Of the Carpathiaus is ap
| preached, the scenery is in many places really
beautiful broad plains aud gently rolling
ground, with well outlined mountains ON the
horizon. The land is evidently of good
quality, but owing TO continued drought and
in many places inferior cultivation, the crops
were not good the gast summer The firs
interesting station we stopped at was Peezel
where there was large crowd of people
mostly peasants, dressed in the most motley
manner possible. should not have heoI
able, in many cases, 10 distinguish the mel
from the women, had it not been for the uni
yersal custom in Hungary 70 wear nous
taches. The men, for the greater part wor,
linen trousers reaching only to the knees
and Of such enor. ,ous width that they locke,
like linen petticoat; in addition TO this
many wore blue aprons. Such, together viii
linen shirt, and high boots, is thu ordinar.
summer dress of the peasants in that part Q
Hungary. Their head-dress is a low, felt hat
with very wide rim turned up all snoand
Beside the Hungarians there were Gipsis'
| A.ll uai
many other varieties Of people, all crowde
0 together and shouting at the tops of thei
voices in different languages. In the crow
was little old woman, selling melons. Sh
was provided with an enormously long eagl
| nose and a chin turned up TO meet it. 5
Z thin was she, and bent over, that had she hel
. a broom-stick in her hand | should have bee
7 tempted to take her for a witch of the oil
stofv books, who was ready TO mount on he
wooden charger and speed ON ahead of us {
, the CairAthan mountains in order to ASST
there at a witches Sabbath in some myster
Gus and inaccessible spot. The starting c
/. the train, which remained at the station onl
n1 about five minutes put an end TO any inagil
!, ings might have had, and we were hastenin
4 on TO the north. At Aliskolez we stopped fC
y dinner ! there met Count Androssy, I'll
- present Chancellor of the Austrian empir
who was on his way to Terebes, his countI
u seat, near the CaIpathians. Count Andross
u took part in the revolution of 1913, an
after the defeat of the iIungarians, lived Il
some time in England. Since 1866 he, wit
:, Deak, the patriarch of Hungarian statesme
:. occupies the chief position, in the estimatio
. of his couutTymen, In Parliament he HI
Il the reputation of a very clever and ready d
batter, and would be considered in Ameri,
a smart and successful man. The Emper
Of Austria looks upon him with feelin.
e amounting to personal friendship, and thong
10y many years the youngest of the thr'
great European Chaneellors, his lease
power is amongst the most firm. As IL
evening approached, the scenery becau
~ more grand, the road rising continual
a toward the main chain of the mountain
i xt midnight we passed the ridge through
d grand tunnel, which has cost some million
About seven o'clock in the morning we we
in Pyrelhyse, in Galicia, or Austrian Polan
: picturesquely situated town, with no er
= of Jews, whom, with all my feelings of tc
Grafton, must declare TO be a most dis
greeable race. After hasty cup Of coif
=, we started for Odessa, by the way of Lei
berg. The country on the road is rath
manntonnua and not we'll cultivated