The star. (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1874-1875, 1875-01-08

The fur-lined cloaks are among the
most desirable garments OF the winter.
They were introduced two years ago
merely as carriage wraps, but did not
meet with the favor they had received
abroad. This season, however, ladies
have learned to appreciate them, apd no
longer use them merely as extra wraps
in the carriage or for evening, but also
on the promenade in the daytime, aud at
all hours of the day. They have also
adopted these soft luxurious Innings for
French sacques and other short jackets,
as well as for longer garments. That
long cloaks will be popularity revived is
now certain. They are designed at the
best Partisan houses, and are sent over
made OF cameps hair, matelasse silk, and
velvet, and are richly embroidered, or
else braided with that broad loose
tressed braid now i'll vogue. The pat
terms serve for these as well as the iur.
lined clOaks.
The materials, however, which meet
with most general favor are heavily rep
ped black iaille or gros grain, or else the
rich, glossy Sicllienne cloth made of very
fine wool and very fine silk woven to-
gethcr in thick cord-like reps, yet as
flexible as the thinnest fabric. 1t costs
from 81 to 80 Il yard, and is double width.
Single-width black Siciliennes are "a.
The circular shape is most generally
liked, as it does not crush the sleeves OF
handsome dresses. 1t may be used as
the only wrap or over another. as cir.
cumstances require. Ladies are fast
adopting the sensible custom prevailing
among gentlemen of removing their outei
| wraps indoors in crowded rooms, al
places OF amusement, theater, concert
| or church. With fur-lined cloaks, seal
and other jackets of fur, this has be-
come a necessity. The circular is almost
though not quite a semlcircle, and may
have hood or not as the wearer pleases
The silk part is fitted by the modiste
and the furrier completes the garment
At the date Of writing single furriel
had twenty-five such circulars i'll hand
being made to order.
| The long sacque cloak is exceedingly
popular with young ladies for its novel
| ty, and with old ladies ior Its comfort
1t is seen on the promenade on cold days
and is excellent as an evening wrap
1t is of long and simple shape, depending
upon its stylish tit and luxurious air fol
its beauty. The sleeves are cut very
large at the arm-bole, as well as abou,
| the hand, to prevent crushing the dress
| sleeves. Many of those worn on Fittf
avenue are utterly without trimming
having only an inch or so OF the lining
fur showing below the edges, not as {
trimming, but to make known the fact o
the fur lining. Indeed, so sought aftel
is this appearance that merchants are
already adding the merest edge of tur tt
the Innings of wadded cloaks-a decep
ton that is detected when the wine
blows the garment about. Those who d.
not mind the expense have a border o
any OF the stylish dark furs added on thu
outside of the garment, such as silver
blue, or gray fox, tisher-tail, ,'siiver-coon
or black Marten.
The soft luxurious fur lining adds mos
to the expense of the cloak. The popu
lar lining fur is the gray and Whit
squirrel lock-" made from the flanks o
the gray Siberian squirrel. In selectin,
squirrel lock" lining those Of the dark
est shade Of gray, with pure white stripes
between, should be chosen, as they ar
far more valuable. The lighter shades
OF gray are of short light fleece, and eos
only about half as much as darker shades
and this makes the great difference IL
the prices of these garments. Ladies ar
also advised to see that the skins ar,
4 made soft and pliable through good
dressing, and that they are well sewet
together. If the best qualities are no
used the fur will "shed,' on the twill o
CdsuluGIc uIcSocS VI OA VIC tulOh PAAC "
Velvet. $3.50 buy sacque or circular o
silk with squirrel Innings, and an mex
pensive outside border, such as blacl
marten. Shorter silk and Sicilienn
sacques cost S75 or $50 at the large furn
isliing stores.
Furriers charge from $75 upward 70
! lining large garment with fur. A nut
of the material Of the wrap, trimme
with fur like the border, is now muc
: worn. For making such muff tn
charge is about SO.
. The latest imported novelty In oper,
cloaks is the circular of white Slcilienne
lined throughout with soft pliable whit
fox fur, and bordered with the same.
That round garments will beswor
, again Is proven by the fact that sea
skin circulars are already being ordere
: by leaders OF fashion, These are roun
( capes reaching we'll over the tournurt
and shaped to ut the shoulders perfectly
while the sides iold over tho arms q
closely as sleeves do, Handsomely bol
dered with unplucked otter, such q man