Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-09-01

WIN gathered nounce, scant, twelve in
ches IN depth. and headed with three n Ave
scant and narrow pufnngS. the upper one rnf
on with heading. TIE sleeves viii be Of
SILK. Cashmere, trimmed or combined with
SILK IL In as great demand as ever for fsll
wear, the dark shades OF brown. green-hloe
previously mentioned having somewhat dis
placed black, which, last summer, was
All wcolens are reasonable in price. In,
cashmeres and merinos show a lane ne iuc-
ZION IN the prices az which they were former
purchased st - per yari. and FYench n,erie
nos, beginning at IS cents will douhfless
come down to 80 cents before the season is
Dark English prints, 10 may be reruarkea-
In shaded and broken checks. one yard wide.
which wear forever and look ike foalari
silk, 50 nne are they, are introduced AT .
cents per yard
COSTUME HATS
The great popularity accorded 70 felt .aSt
season seems 20 have increased rather than
diminished, end has stimulated the manu-
facturer To such an ext cut a. 70 greatly inn
prove the fabric. The new fall hats are al
ffelt,ard the higher grades are not only very
nne win Soii velvet finish, which some
prefer 10 velvet itself, but they show a fine
and white range OF shade and coloring which
leaves nothing 10 be desired. or course the
gIays' inc browns, The navy blues and the
invisible" green's and slate grays and wine
cOlors in the choicest cloth shades so that
Almost Any iali or winter costume may be
trimming should be governed largely by the
costume, but ~ iS certain DO ornaments will
re used, no tinselled braids or head bands
or trumpery dogs heads, arrows or buckles
The edge Of the brim will he bound with vel
vet facings Of short curled ostrich, AMI
bright peacock's feathers Will be used. ana
feathers, or feathers and the dark, thick
matelaSse r1bhon which are found I, n ,ffer-
tive In arrangement and are already en-
pioyed In the medium widths bows for
iall costumes. AS yet a. IL quite impossible
10 tell which shape Will have the honor of
that marked preference which usually falls
10 me lot OF some one. often the uglteSt aud
least seemingly attractive OF those Offered
for choice. But IT Is safe to assume that they
NIL NIL, ret retain tleir picturesque character.
bens" will be found, IL not In precisely the
same styles, yet presenting many of their
characteristics, is probable.
The claims, however, OF these will be dis
puted by the Raphael" a more recent AMI
very becoming shape, with the falling hrim
and oval crown OF the Panama, aud the
Cecilia" with low oval crown and straieht
brim. y few of these designs have alreadv
appeared in pale shades OF cream and ashes
of-Toses felt, the brim facet WITH a band OF
small curlef feathers, the crown surrounded
win folds OF matelasSe silk In cardinal scar
let or Two shades OF brown. and a broad
pleas ants wing set up at the back. Hair a
Gozen OF these. prepared for ladies' en- route
az they appeared.
There is less demand for long ostrich
plumes than last year, and more for fancy
feathers, wings. birds OF brilliant plumage
the breasts of birds, lophomora feathers am
bands and plumes OF cocks feathers DYED of
various hues. Feathers will be usel alto
sether, 10 the exclusion OF aowers upon felt
bot flowers will perhaps he somewhat EN-
ployed later In the season for velvet, eSpe-
cially velvet hornets.
Young ladies' have revived the long wells
OF Donna Maria gauZe, I'm gray, navy blue
and brown, which are twisted around the
crown ana long end left to cover the face or
protect the neck, as the case may be.
CoLoRs.
The striking popularity about coIors for
The coming season Is the contrast between
dark and light, and their close and intimate
s ASSOC, These shades, as properly com
requires perfect eye for color TO distinguish
them, and particularly 10 prop srly place
them. Tie faintest cream or " ivory tint is
put with deepest cardinal scarlet or dark
walnut, pale +" water shade with invis-
IDLE green" {" skim milk" with navy blue
and so ON. The subtle delicscy with which
The shades are harmonized is worthy of an
artist, and requires both artistic taste and
training 10 achieve.
Ladies cannot depend for this upon the or
binary clerk and attendant of a dry gooi
store. IL is rarely that they even know
goods by their proper names. The only way
III they cannot go 10 a really first-claSs artist
dss niocos-and there are few OF these-is 70
cultivate their own faculties so that they
can select and combine for themselves, and
not De al Tie mercy OF persons who are Quit
a. 4sIOrdIll themselves. II seems renar K
able that when there Is so much attention
paid TO dress by ladies that they do not di-
Iect more OF II 70 color and form. They buy
Themselves Ia making and altering over as
they are bid, but they do not study dress
from the artistic or scientific point of view
and therefore not only add nothing 10 It's
beauty o. the permanence OF its forms, but
they ere unacQuaiuted with the clements
which compose dress color. weight, texture
and the like. They do not even know now D
ADAPT the &c essentials 10 their own physical
pecullSrlties, but cons family ask what they
shall wear, and a hat is becoming 70 them
as though they had neither sight nor touch
and could not think out the harmonies
which exist for themselves I'm the univerS q
them.
The predominant colors IN street dress for
iall viii DE neutral with cardinal scarlet.
Checks (black and white) viii be very popu-
Ian, also marine blue aud myrtle green.
Prune is In less demand. Browns, navy blue
and dark green's are the favoriteS.
A great revival is also anticipated of the
Tartan, the clan Tartans IN high colors, as
well as the Dark blues and green's. The
Royal stuart, rich scarlet plaid, aud the
Argyle Campbell, a blue, green, and black
barred with white appear, not i'm poplIn, bRt
In beautiful soft twillei wooden, a yard and a
half wide and make very striking dresses
IN conjunction with sleeves aud plain deIni-
ualneG skirt OF black velvet.
REVIVAL or THE CLOAK.
There y good deal said about the revival
OF the cloak as an independent garment,
lady who has M nkering for II 70 wear one
without being considered eccentric. Still f.
is hardly possible for IL 20 make much hea.i
way at present. AL the popular ideas
Gogr", The sleeveless tunic, the tablier 4
dr8pery are opposed 10 IL; IL can only con-
Win their extinction, the rehabilitation OF
The plain skirt and means for its dist ansion-
loT The CLOAK cannot gracefully or COM
lOrtaoly cling 20 our heels as our SKIRTS DO
and II IL has form will want 10 show IL
DOUBTLESS a change OF some kind IS irnmi-
nent. Tying back the skirt so that every
BODY Is as helpless, and looks so. as an In
ulan papCOSe, Las struck ieath blow ID
tunlc dIapery, but II viii take time-ft Is
very unlikely Ia show it's n 20 any extent for
some time 10 come. A few clOaKs may be
made IN The IN ttled AID mateiaiSe silks
and Tie handsome circular fur lined cloaks
are being eNtcE>. sCly used as wraps, but
these belong 10 All exceptional class and
scarcely enter IntO a discussion OF Inc pozsl-
lar question.
AcCitions 10 The ordinary suit Will ~
course De r. qulrod IN some form, and hand
some jackets Will retain their place the new
ones, perhaps, being cut longer until iInper-
SepubIy, Tue tllLg is accomplished, and we
have again CLOAK
very pretty Tartan wrap" IL among
the new desi gns for TIE present season WHICH
viii be welcome 10 those who cannot sfIord
biacE ST. ful-llned. IL Is "A close-cut circle
Win HOOD, medium length, and slightly
followed IN at Tie back. IL il bordered with
wooien fringe containing the colors Of tie
plaid.
a ctr -a..-.