American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1875-06-19
Gentlemen's Fashions.

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Tribune.
Gentlemen's Fashions.
THE business and travelling suits worn
by gentlemen this season are made of
Scotch and English suitings in small
broken plaids and checks. Brown is the
leading color, and is introduced in most
plaids; in all cases quite medium colors
prevail; occasionally there are threads
of red mixed with brown, black, or some
neutral color. The entire suit is made
from one piece of cloth. The coat may
be the double breasted, reefng sack, or
else the single-breastedN Newmarket coat,
with vest cut to match. The buttons
used are of substantial buffalo horn,
clouded in the shades of the plaid; there
are also handsome inlaid buttons for
such suits. The pantaloons are cut very
large in the leg. There are also business
suits made of the Scotch Knickerbocker
cloth, which has occasional irregular
threads or dashes of color on plain brown
or gray grounds. Leading houses charge
from $45 upward for business suits made
quoted are made of the Knickerbocker
suitings.
The semi-dress suit worn at church, at
morning weddings and receptions, when
making calls, the theater, and all other
occasions when full dress is not required,
consists of dark frock-cOat, with vest
to match Tor white), and gray pantaloons.
This frock-coat is now worn very long,
and is made of the finest diagonal cloth,
resembling the camels-haiI goods worn
by ladies. Authorities differ about its
color, one preferring blue, another as
serting that black coats prevail, others
limiting that deep, invisible brown is the
choice of leaders of fashion, and will
soon become generally. popular. The
vest Is single-breasted if made of the
material of the coat; double-breasted
if made of white duck for midsum-
mer wear. The gray pantaloons may
be either checked or striped, and the
gloves should match the color of the
pantaloons. Sixty-fve dollars is the av-
erage price of such suits.
of black broadcloth except that of max
ing swallow-tail coats much longer. The
entire suit may be made of one piece of
cloth, though for summer white vest is
often preferred. Instead of this regula-
ton dress suit, the swallow-tail coat
yields during the summer months to
frock-coats made of the finest black
broadcloth, and worn with gray panta-
looms and black or white vest. 1nvisi-
BILE blue and dahlia-colored cloths are
also used for this coat.
Summer OvercOats are cut very long,
and are sacks almost exclusively, though
some surtouts are seen. They are made
of dark gray worsteds and brown dag
Onals The linen busters for travelling
are made in the long Ulster shape, and
belted.
Plain linen bosoms without any pleats
are preferred for shirt fronts. These
are made of three layers of linen, the
interlining being coarse, heavy duck
linen that will hold starch well. For
full dress the ornamental shirt front has
two lines Or else rings of very fine EN-
broidery. For summer neglige shirts
percale and linen are chosen, with white
grounds strewn with small, irregular fig
ures. dashes, Greek squares, stars and
diagonal twills; some checked and
striped designs are used, but they do
not prevail here as in most other gar
ments worn by gentlemen. Percale shirts
made to order are furnished with two
collars and an extra pair of cuffs, and
cost $3.50 each; those of striped linen
are 50. To please fanciful tastes there
are white shirts with the collar and
cuffs lined with hair-striped linen, while
the outside is all white; cord or bias
binding OF the striped linen is then sewed
down the edge of the shirt bosom.
The newest standing collar is the Rom
illus, with. sharp points rolled over in
the English fashion. Another standing
collar, called the Boston, has the points
stiffiy turned over and pressed so fatty
that the effect of a turned-down collar
is given. The popular turned-down col
lar is the Byron, which remains un-
changed in shape. New cuffs are round
ed at the corners and are made to meet
at the edges without tapping, SO that the
new linked sleeve buttons may be worn
with them. The Harlem Lane cuff is the
useful, reversible cuff, with round cor
ners.
Gentlemen's neck-ties for the street are
tied in larger bows than have been worn
lately. Checks and plaids are very pop
ular for business, travelling and general
wear. The Windsor ties, of soft, silk.
cut bias, are shown in plaids of quaint
colors, and in light, cool grays mixed
with lavender. There are large plaids of
navy blue with white and violet in vari-
GUS shades. Plain colors and black are
not, however, abandoned. An excellent
scarf for gentlemen who cannot tic a
bow neatly, and who have q reasonable
dislike to set, stiff looking, made bows,
is the Lord Warden scarf, which is mere
ly a long Windsor scarf with loose
strap made to resemble a knot, and
which, when slipped over the scarf-ends,
gives the appearance of being tied by the
wearcr. These arc in tasteful, dark, rich
colOrs, and cost $3.50 and $1.75 each.
White lawn neck-tics will be very gen
orally worn during the summer, both for
house and street, for morning and after
noon as well as evening. These are
bought by the dozen for three dollars,
or else the wide, white Windsor ties of
lawn are chosen, with embroidery above
the hemmed points; the latter cost fifty
cents each. White gros grain, satin and
lavender neck-ties as wide as those worn
by ladies, and tied Us capriciously, have
been introduced for weddings, but have
not been fully adopted.-Ha1per's Bazaar.
GEO. P. RowELL 4 Co. Advertising Agents,