Wood County reporter. [volume] (Grand Rapids [i.e. Wisconsin Rapids], Wis.) 1857-1923, 1875-11-11
New Fashions.
NEW POLONAISFS.

AT each opening of French costumes
new designs are shown for polonaises.
These show most varied shapes, but the
prevalent idea among them is the attempt
to do away with elaborate boutfant dra-
perry and make straight, simply-shaDed
garments. The Marguerite seams are
found in almost all backs of polonaises.
and these seams are now heightened more
than ever by beginning not merely in the
shoulder seams but in the back of the
neck where the shoulder seam joins the
neck; this makes three long seams down
the middle of the back and extending
over the tournure. The pelisse polonaise
is the name given to an undraped garment
just introduced by Worth. 1t resembles
gentleman's double breasted frock coat in
shape, is open plainly from the waist
down the back, has pocket-faps on the
sides and is fastened by three buttons in
front. The seams in the back are like
those just described as beginning at the
neck where it meets the shoulder, and
these three seams are almost parallel
down the back, except that the outer ones
taper inward at the waist. The handsomest
model of this is of black brocade silk stiff
enough for a dowager. This silk has
black satin leaves 50 closely brocaded upon
1t that the repped ground is almost con-
cealed. The trimmings are of the SIM
plest kind, being merely facings on the
collar and cuffs Of cardinal-red silk, while
the slightest line Of the cardinal appears
down the back and front where the gar
ment falls open; the lower edge is merely
hemmed. The skirt to wear with this is
plain black gros- grain, with three very
fine knife-plaitings, each four inches
deep, and set quite apart from each other
instead of tapping in the present fashion.
SIMPLE OVERSIGHT.
Among simple and stylish new over
skirts is good design that requires but
two breadths Of the wide wool goods now
enough for taste. The front is wide,
deep apron with the fullness necessary
for length laid in two folds high across
the top. The back is three-cornered
piece pointed in shawlshape below,
trimmed all around, and its fullness laid in
easy plaits set on the sides of the front.
The middle of this triangular breadth
would not be long enough for the pulled
loop at the top of the back if it were
sewed to the belt, hence it is suspended
by a tape that is concealed under the two
double boX-plaits that its width requires
RONNETS
Felt hats are not chosen to match the
costumes with which they are worn, but
are trimmed with velvet and silk of the
color Of the dress. Light creamy white
and wood-colored fabrics are chosen, and
the gloves are of the usual shade. This
brightens up dark toilets and permits the
use ofvery dark materials for trimming the
hat. The most looking
bonnets are very high in front, with close
sides and very full face-trimmings. This
shape is chosen for black and dark col
ored velvet bonnets for church, visiting
and receptions, and is not nearly as large
as the shapes used for second-be hats
for general wear. For young ladies are
f1at-crowned, faring brim hats that are
worn just on the back of the head, en-
circling it like halo, and showing nearly
ali the parting on top of the head these
are larger than the shape just mentioned.
hen made Of black velvet they are given
a more youthful look by having facings
of blue or rose silk inside-either shirred
or plain-and a full trimming of shell
loops, with sometimes touffe of roses, or
a feather tip oddly posed high on the left
side The best milliners are using gilt and
silver galloons and ornaments little
more freely than at the first openings this
season. These look especially we'll with
black velvet. Two or three black ostrich
tips are posed on end in front, on one
side, or low behind and made to curl over
as much as possible. Gros- grain or
twilled silk in broad, deep folds is then
laid around the crown, coming up on its
sides, and ending in single loop low be-
hind.
NEW Wells.
New wells are quite long again, with
square corners below, while the top is
rounded, bemmed and string run in it
to tie it around the bonnet. They are
made of black Chantilly net, without dots,
like fine tulle, and are finished with an
inch-wide hem that has row of fine tiny
gold beads at the top of the hem for bon
nets that have gilt trimmings, while jet
beads are used on wells for other bonnets.
They measure three-quarters of yard in
length when finished They are tied
around the bonnet, fastened behind the
| neck to make them smooth across the
| face, just as mourning wells are worn, and
the right hand corner Is then thrown back
over the houlder.-HGrper's Bazar.
IT., A. 1-oo..z O.. L 49,,