New-York tribune., 1875-10-09
MEMS FAIL FASHIONS.

TIE NEw OvfRCoNTs-VAhiErlESo OF CAoI" "''N
BUSINESS GARMENTS-HaTs ASD FURS.
The first addition to the outer apparel maze
in The Autumn is Oycrcoat for emily mornings anu
evenings All overcoats are very long III 'ho SA"''
and in this alone is there any rule, for their Shpc' '
diversified Surtouts and sacks arc both worn Inc
mare dressy surtouts are long, doubcbrcasted Tocks
with silk Innings and velvet collars Sacks are long
and shaped to the figure. and may he either single OF
double-breasted The greater number are uoupie
breasted but there is still preference for slngeprestu
s,caues with y fronts The fashionable color Tor over
coats is dark gray in the pcpPeandsa mixtures known
o. " oxfords" Dark blue, brown, and black colored
ovcrcoats are likewise worn. The materials are ribbed
diagonal and basket-woyen cloths Heavier ciohS 'n"'
are called fur beavers and cysiaus Will be used lor
Winter ovcrcOats. Opera ovcrcoats ana those lor ocr
fuldress occasions made of smooth cloths In hSh'
drab or brown shades. Rceing sacks of the heavy
material used for oyercGats are made up very Warmly
and worn before putting on Winter oHercoas by sen'
men who do not wear the light oyercOas described for
Autumn.
Some fashionable ailors insist upon making every
thing en- ste, and positively decline to make coat
unless they arc permitted to make wa-eoat OF the
same material to with it, Cloths with line minute
diagonal lines twcd like nuns serge. are preferred to
the broad coarselOoking diagonal cloths worn year
ago Dark blue SUITS of invisible shades that are little
moro definite than bucblack are even moro desirable
than they were during the Summer. wide bindings OF
gaoon are fashionable for cdging coats, Dut men oi
plain tastes consider these trimmings too pronounced ana
showy and prefer instead narrow roll or small corded
edge of braid Men who dress in the hight OF fashion
wear wide panaoons cut straight, with no spring over
the ankles.
Travelling and business suits for Fall and Winter dis
play tho prevalent taste for extreme English styles
Large plads sre chosen for the whole suit o coat, waist
coat and trousers The prevailing colors are irongray
t,pnoh 9th lark
The materials are English and Scotch goods also the
rouchbreadcd Knickcrbockcr cloths and the Soit Hex
bic camels hair closely resembling III fabric ana dSa
those in use for ladies' The business coat Is double
breasted reelng sack, cut longer than SACKS nave
been for many years; its edges are doubicachrd-ot
hound The trousers very large. As these brsin7s
suits arc for general everyday taors seek 10 vary
fine manner OF making them. Sometimes the are IN The
full English style with single breaStt N"Wndr@et coa
fastened by one to three buttons VIA iai7 al tue
waist and pockets. With snch coat the waSicOat IL
high to wear with scarf Plads ana othef dirf M \tlrS
known IA suitings used for the coat walstroat IN
paptaIOons Undrcss suits of heavy blue cLcFlnt oi "
cloth OF excellent quality are IN favor WIN o'S h'
Reception suits il the name taOrs give I" the SUI 20
Iccted for day receptions and Or informal dinners where
full dress is not required for making yiss Tor chnrch
concerts afternoon drives &c This reception Hu, >
black frock coat. black waiscoat and either black or
gray cashmere pantaOons The frock coat Is double
breasted and very long in the skirt 1t made of finely
twilled dagona cloth, and sometimes Of baskct-W0ven
cloth though the first is preferred The edges may be
bound with wide galoon, hut it is far ncater to have
narrow cord binding The waistcol, oi the same mate
rial is sngebrcastcd with notchcd collar and buttons
rather low there is certain shape peculiar to waist
coats that are to be with frOckcOas For rcceE-
lions tho panaloons should also be black, but for ordn-
ary visiting they usually of light gay cashmere cut
in large full English shape. Stripes are more used than
gray grounds striped with black or black with white
brown with black there are also molteo gray grounds
I.naa lint hD uf
Darkbrown coats and waiscOats OF almost invisible tns
are sometimes CHOSEN instead OF e0ai-blnck cloths hiue
coats are not popular for reception suits a. they were
last Winter. DianondhSured cloths ana those with
crnked threads or with sieazy threads that gye
are supplied with diagonal c0atgs ana III many cases
% dress snits Of black are made OF lustros cloths
than were formerly used. French and West of England
cloths are preferred such suits The dress coat is
made longer than and its fronts roll very low; II IL
unchanged otherwise The slnge6reasied w5sicOat Is
cut low TO match the coat New black dress bats have
bell shaped crowns. six and trccquastcr inches high,
with narrow band thai is fastened 10y small black
buckle The brim IN inch ana SeVenelshll' wlue t2s
a sharp DOrsay curve; price -. The novelty III felt
hats the sailor shape with low nat crown sur ondrd
and almost concealed by broad bad thewde straight
hrm three and half inches or more III breadth Gray
IS the shade for fct hats there are also yagns brown
shades to correspond with SUITS ana MISUNDERSTANDING
these dark quiet colos are attractive olacR lo hats
will he most yoll as the Tc"den d"ss & ot 80 sGoh IRE o
still wear Derby hats with round tn crowns ana stiner
brms The graceful sOuch hat. variously known as the
Mountaneer the Tourist and the Texan. Is made with
lower than similar hats worn last season. Ito Drim
is straight though mol SUE
seasin will the popular fur formcns turbans,
collars and gloves Seal turbans will have the high
Canadian crown with wide roll that may be turned
down over the ears Sometimes the roll r. OF black
marten or other fur that borders the seaskn hand
sOmcly.
The "rouIeau collar is the given the straight
high English collar II has pointed fronts that
are slightly rolled over but should not be roncd atly as
these fronts do not the throat IS exposed Men who
prefer turned down collars the straight collar called
the Byron; when shirt is properly htted is high
around the neck that the Byron collar the neck
and throat even than the high standing collar.
Shirt bOsos plain as 1t Il possible To fold linen
without paits Two or three OF cord OF stitching
are placed the edge Of the front beyond the eyeet
holes an nerining OF linen is necessary to make
the plain bosom thick enough 20 hold starch The lower
part of this linen ia slOped narrower than the upper
making 1t shield shape, az huch DOsohs do not
break rumpe easily as those made
straght. Pearl buttons with buttonhO are LlOTe
worn on srtfrons than they have been since eyolets
and spiral studs in fashion. Cuffs are square cor
nrred and not a. large they formerly line OF
fine necdewOrk Is down the front OF shirts with
full dress suits embroidery and honstchng are both
used this way. Sometimes there are meiaI
sprays or wreaths OF ncedlewOrk round each cyelet
Black nccktics preferred for general use IN Winter
lust as white in Summer, yet the shops display
many darktinted scarfs of twled SILK repped ros
grain bTOcadf, and plalded slk Marine Dlue, bottle
green and seal brown most often represented. The
Windsor tc-ap scarf t2 he tied by the wearer-s the
best choice There Are also large handsome bows Of
black that look II they tied after being
mt on Long wide scarfs folded natly aud conceang
nearly all the shirt front warmlOOkng, hnd VIII be
worn with business suits during the Winter satin scars
are again offered in the shops, but satin lys easily and
profitable 10 the wearcr 8rosgrain or twled
sk Double stitched gloves long enough To require two
buttons the wrist chosen by men Gray and wood
gloves preferred 10 chalk white for full dress Shoes
Of calf skin laced op the nseP are worn with heavy