The Eaton Democrat. (Eaton, Ohio) 1875-1903, 1875-11-25
Novelties in Dress.
NEW P~oLoNAIsFs.

. At each opening of French costumes
new designs are shown for polonaises.
These show most varied shapes, but the
prevalent idea among them is the at
tempt to do away with elaborate bouffant
drapery, and make straight, simply
shaped garments. The Marguerite
seams are found in almost all backs of
polonaises, and these seams are now
heightened more than ever by beginning
not merely in the shoulder seams, but in
the back of the neck where the shoulder
seam joins the neck This makes three
long seams down the middle of the back,
and extending over the t%ournure. The
pelisse polonaise is the name given to
an ~undraped garment just introduced by
Worth. 1t resembles a gentleman's
double breasted frock-coat in shape, is
open plainly from the waist down the
back. has pocket-faps on the sides, and
is fastened by three buttons in front.
The seams In the back are like those Just
described as beginning at the neck where
it meets the shoulder, and these three
seams are almost parallel down the back,
except that the other mes taper inward
at the waist. The handsomest model of
this is of black brocade silk, stiff enough
for a dowager. This silk has black satin
leaves SO closely brocaded upon it that
the repped ground is almost concealed.
The trimmings are of the simplest kind,
being merely facings on the collars and
cuffs of cardinal red silk, while the
slightest line of the cardinal appears
down the back and front where the gar
ment falls open 1.-The lower edge is mere
~ hemmed. The skirt to wear with this
is plain black gros grain, with three very
fine knife-plaitings, each four inches
deep, and set quite apartfrom each other
instead of tapping in the present fash
SIMPLE ~ovERsKIRTs
Among simple and stylish overskirts is
a good. design that requires but two
breadths Of the wide wool goods now in
vogue, yet is long enough and full
enough for taste. The frontsis a wide,
deep apron, with the fullness necessary
for length laid in two folds high across
the top. The back is a ~three-cornered
piece, pointed in shawl shape below,
trimmed all around, and its fullness laid
in easy plaits set on the sides of the
front: The middle of this triangular
breadth wouldnot be long enough for the
pulled loop at the top of the back if it
were sewed to the belt, hence it is sus-
pended by a tape that is concealed under
the two double .box-plaits that its width
requires. -ts'F3iis - ~
. U'E'' % BoNNETs. -
Felt hats are not chosen to match the
costumes with which they are worn, but
are trimmed with velvet and silk of the
color of the dress. Light creamy-white
and wood colored felts L chosen, and
the gloves are of the same shade. This
brightens up dark toilets, and permits
the use of very dark materials for trim
ming the hat. The most distinguished
looking bonnets are very high in front,
with close sides and very full face trim
mings. This shape is chosen for black
and d~ark-colored velvet bonnets for
church, visiting and receptions, and is
not nearly as large as the shapes usedfor
second best hats and for general wear.
For young ladies are fat-crowned faring
brim hats that are worn Just on the back
of the head, encircling it like a halo, and
showing nearly all the parting on top Of
the head these are larger than the
shape just mentioned. When made o.
black velvet they are given a o youth
full look by having facings of blue or rose
silk inside-either shirred or plain-and
a full trimming of shell loops, with some
times a touffe of roses, or a feather tiE
oddly posed high on the side. The best
milliners are using gilt and silver gal
looms and ornaments a little more freely
than at the first openings this season
These look especially well with blacl
velvet. Two or three black ostrich tip
are posed on end infront, on one side,
or low behind, and made to curl oven ~
much a possible. Gros grain or twillet
silk in broad deep folds is then lait
around the CROWN, coming up on it
sides, and ending in a single loop Low
| hnhinl .L-. .