American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1875-09-11
Fall Millinery.

than in the shapes of the new bOnnets
: The prevailing shape retains the hig
prominent front and moderate crown nOy
J. in vogue, and is worn far back on tn
u head. The only new features are that i
: IS short on the sides, close to the ears, an,
4 is always provided with strings. Fronts
c or .brims, are also more regularly shaped
: projecting upward and outward in scool
:, shape, or being turned back en- reveys a
I the top. The face trimming is massed il
knots, bows and toufes of flowers jus
above the forehead. The outside trim
7 ming does not encircle the crown like
8 band, but is variously arranged to sui
different hats. Sometimes the OBJECTIVE
!, point for trimming is just to the left o
the front; on other bonnets it is nearly al
Lon the left side, leaving the right almos
bare; while in others everything is cius
tered low down behind 11e
Felt and velvet bonnetss are imported t.
the exclusion of nearly all other materials
Felt bopnets will be worn all through thu
autumn and early in the winter; velve
bonfets will appear at Christmas The
new felts are partly smooth and partly OF
, the fur-beaver felt. Sometimes thecrOwr
is of a lighter shade than the brim, and
in other cases the brim is dark on one
side and light on the other. Light cream
color and pale gray felts are most liked
and arc handsome enough to wear with
dressy costumes; there are also many
dark brown, bottle green, and blue fclts
black felts are not very largely imported,
and the same is true of velvet, though
black bonnets will by no means be aban-
doncd.- The edges of felt bonnets and
round hats are left raw" that is, cut
smooth, and not bound. Colors of the
deepest hues prevail among velvet. bon
nets. An importation of forty bonnets at
one establishment shows but one of black
velvet; at another house two or three
| black bOnnetS are shown among MANY
celored ones. Navy blue and brown are
most largely represented; some exceed
Iingly stylish bOnnets arei of dark bottle
green; there is also an effort to revive
turquois blue and peacock-color.
| A great deal of soft ribbon is used in
| trimming bonnets and for the long strings
These ribbons are about three and a half
inches wide, and are closely. twilled or
| else in broad serge twills. Some have
diagonal stripes an inch wide, made by
reversing the twill. There is also pretty
notified ribbon called granite that trims
very effectively when combined with
velvet. Basketwoven Panama ribbons are
also Introduced, matching the loosely
woven fabric described last week for over
dresses; these come in dark queer plaids
as we'll as in plain colors. There are also
very handsome ribbons that are twilled on
one side and have a slight satin gloss on
the other Wide twilfed ribbons, broad
enough for sashes, are used for making
the full soft loops that now depend from
the back of bonnets. Gros grain ribbon
is very little used.
The most conspicuous novelty of the
season is the ecru cashmere lace with
which boDnets. are trimmed. This Is
fine wool lace made in thread patterns like
those Of black chantilly, and of the old
time white thread lace now called Malines.
1t is made in. Normandy. 1t is of that
creamy whiteness that is so elective with \
dark velvets, and is used in great profu-
sion on the bonnet in ruches, quilting and |
barbes. The best Partisan milliners use
it both on felt and velvet bonnets, and it
is said It win be used for trimming cos
Tunes also. The designs are much finer
than those Of the yak and wool guipures
now worn. This creamy white lace seems
to have entirely superseded black lace, as
the latter is not seen on imported hats.
The new ornaments for bonnets are of |
red gold and silver, and are warranted not |
to tarnish. They consist of long massive !
brooches of the gold, with small floriated !
silver designs upon them, and of buckles |
ofyarious shapes in open filigree silver
and gold, and richly chased in medieval
patterns. More prominent than these,
however, are the gold and silver galloons,
braid and soutache that were Introduced
late last winter. These are of various
widths, from an inch down to the mercst
cord. The wide GALLON is loosely woven
in Panama braiding, and is used for bind
ing and crown bands. Narrower gilt or
silver braitis are set above the edge of the I
Crown. mot ON it, Phis trimming makes
the bonnet very heavy, and, notwitlsstand-,
ing it is finer and more artistic than any
gffded ornaments before offered for
please American ladies. The leading
millinefs will use it very spariRgly. jet /
are entirely out of fashion.
The fancy for wings, breasts and birds
ls-very evident in the new importations.
Flae merle, or black bird, seems 10 be the 1
favOrite, and especially the merle bronze,
= Brazilian blackbirGl, (which 10 not black,
but has blue and bronze shades ON its
wings ard back. The entire bird is used ,
md is mounted on wires and springs that
permit the head and wings 10 he moved
lbout in the most natural manner The
lonely gray swallow is also stuffed and
Iscd for ornament; also heads of spotted
pigeons, with their cunning Staring eyes; ;
md long mounted pieces are made of the Is
breasts of the pigeons, pheasants and pea !.
,ocks. Cocks plstmes of deepest green !,
shades are mounted in thick rliches, long '
plumes and in bandeaux. that /!
DstSS dTOuHu Tile Crown anu ndUS OIL each Ia
tide behind, q Ia Nercure. The arrange
nent of ostrich feathers is most eccentric. !
They project outward from the hat and :
Upward on the crown, instead of sweeping |;
downward over the crown as they former !,
y did; even the longest .plumes are fas- :
ened at one end of the stem only and left !.
0 curl without being tackled in the midi :
LEA fashion that may do we'll enough :,
or autumn but will not last when stiff =
winter breezes blow. Imagine two long
'lumes with the ends of the quilts fas- :
ened low down on the back of the bon !
et and the entire plumes unfastened else
where, but adjusted to pass up around the y
rown and lap in front; or else three demi-t 9
ong piumes stuck upward on end, curling |;
ver from the left side of the crown; or a =
ingle Mercutio plume stuck low in the =
ack of a Moutagnard hat and left hang
ng nearly to the waist! !,
Feathers will be most worn on the first !,
utumn bonnets, but French flowers are :, :,
DO nearly perfect to be given up and will y
e worn in the winter. The tosages OF =
lusters are very beautiful. They are
lost often placed just inside the top of
ne bonnet, and occasionally a few flow
rs are added outside. The rose tOufes y
ave already been described Rose-buds "
ave the merest glimpse of red showing {
ON the green calyx. The rough and "
uaint light green of sage leaves is shown n n
1 much foliage. There are clusters of u
Uranium leaves shaded from pale green Il
!, dusky brown. A great many moss-roses :
18th buds are shown. Dark damask :,
Dses have the unnatural foliage of sage
~ Fnr, unranirrYr, Leaves