The Canton mail. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 18??-1882, 1875-11-20
The Latest Fashions.

| AT each opening Of French COSTUME
new designs are shown for pelonaises
These show most varied shapes, bu
the prevalent idea among them is the
attempt to do away with elaborate
bouffant drapery; and make, straight
simple-shaped garment; The Mar
guerite seams are found in almost all
backs of polonaises, and these seams
are now heightened more than ever by
beginning mot Inefely in the shoulder
seams, but in the back of the neck
whete the shoulder seams join the
neckA this makes three long seams
down. the middle of the back, and ex-
tending over the tournure. The
pelisse polonaise is the name given to
an undraped garment just introduced
by Worth. 1t resembles Il gentle
mans double-breasted frock coat in
shape, is open plainly from the waist
down the back, has pocket flaps on the
sides, and is fastened by three buttons
in goont. The seams in the back are
like those Just described as beginning
at the neck where it meets the shoulder,
and these three seams are almost par
allel down the back, except that the
outer ones taper inward at the waist.
| The handsOmest model of this is of black
brocade silk stiff enough for dow
| ager. This silk has black satin leaves
so closely brocaded upon it that the
repped ground is almost concealed.
The trimmings are of the simplest
kind, being merely facings ON tile col
lar and cuffs of cardinal red silk, while
the slightest line of the cardinal APP
pears down the back and front where
the garment falls open; the lower ed ge
is merely hemmed. The skirt to wear
with this is plain black gros grain, with
three very fine knife plaitings, each
four inches deep and set quite apart
from each other instead of tapping in
the present fashion.
SIMPLE OvERsKIRTs.
Among simple and stylish new over
skirts is good design that requires but
two breadths of the wide wool goods
now in vogue. yet is long enough and
full enough for taste. The front is
wide, deep apron, with the fulness
necessary for length laid in two folds
high across the top. The back is
three-cornered piece, pointed in shawl
shape below trimmed all around, and
its fitness laid in easy plaits set on the
sides of the front. The middle of
this triangular breadth would not be
long enough for the pulled loop at the
top of the back if it were sewed to the
belt, hence it is suspended by tape that
is concealed under the two double box
plaits that its width requires.
BONNETs.
Felt hats are not chosen to match the
costumes with which they are worn, but
are trimmed with velvet and silk of the
dress. Light creamy white and wood
colored felts are chosen, and gloves are
of the same shade. This brightens up
dark toilettes, and permits the use OF
very dark materials for trimming the
hat. The most MISUNDERSTANDING
bonnets are very high in front, with
close sides and very full face trimming.
This shape is chosen for black and dark
colored velvet bonnets for church, Wis
iting and receptions, and is not nearly
as large as the shapes used for second
best hats and for general wear. For
young ladies are fiat-crowned haring
brim hats that are worn just on the
back of the head, encircling it like
halo, and showing nearly all the part
ing on top of the head; these are larger
than the shape just mentioned. When
made of black velvet they are given
more youthful look by having facings
of blue or rose silk inside-either
shirred or plain-and fall trimming
of shell loops, with sometimes a touffee
of roses, or feather tip oddly posed
high on the left side. The best milf
ners are using gilt and silver galloons
and ornaments little more freely than
at the first openings this season. These
look especially well with black velvet.
Two or three black ostrich tips are pos
ed on end in front, on one side or low
behind and made to curl over as much
as possible. Gros grain or twilled silk
in broad deep folds is then laid around
the crown, coming up on its sides, and
ending in a single loop behind.
NEW Wells.
New wells are quite long again, with
square corners below, while the top is
rounded, hemmed and string run in it
to tie it around the bonnet. They are
made of black Chantilly net, without
dots, like fine tulle, and are finished
with an inch-wide hem that has row
of fine tiny gold beads at the top of the
hem for bonnets that have gilt trim
mings, while jet beads are used on wells
for other bonnets. They measure three
quarters of a yard in length when
finished. They are tied around the
bonnet, fastened behind the neck to
make them smooth across the face, just
as mourning wells are worn, and the
right hand corner is thrown back over
the shoulder.
A CORRESPONDENT claims as m&iig-
enous to Chicago the decoration of