The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1875-04-28
European Correspondence.
Hippophagy and its Horrors.-How they
Celebrate Easter in Geneya-The Gem,
Gossip. "
GENEYA, swrrzERLANp. /,

. . I- IH Ws.l 81 EEIuI april lSt, 1910. , TT
1t is curious to note the rapid progress of hip
pohagy in Europe, and particularly in
France To the French would seem to be-
long the honor of being the pioneers in over
coming this great gastronomic superstition Of
the middle ages. As early as 1876 Geraud, a
somewhat noted physician declared that horses
yielded excellent meat which should be pub
licly sold. "Why do we abstain from an all
ment as savory as any other?' No answer
came. The renowned surgeon, Larrey, in
1927. said, ''My experience has taught me that
horses are in all respects suitable as food for
man." and in this opinion host of scientific
authorities at intervals concurred.. But to the
efforts of one man, Isidore Geoffrey Saint
Hilaire, more than, to all others, Europe and
the world is indebted for complete information
on the subject, and Paris for the decree of 1866
legalizing hippophagy. At present fifteen Eu-
ropean states authorize and regulate the sale
of horses, mules, and donkeys for food.
Their flesh is said to be as good as the beef or
mutton we daily eat. 1t contains the same
chemical elements, with even more nutrition,
and according to Liebig, it is richer In those
substances contributing greatly to the vital
action" The number Of these quadrupeds
slaughtered in the butcheries of Paris exhibits
steady increase since tho year 1861, and the
consumption of horse flesh in Paris, for public
alimentation is now far greater than had
reason to suppose. The first equine butcher
shops were opened in 1866, and in 1867 the
large number of 2,152 horses were killed and
sold for food. This number was increased each
year till in 1874, according to the statistics be-
fore me, 7,1S4 horses, asses and mules were
butchered and sold for their meal. In the pro-
vincial towns the progress has been about the
same. Horse meat must have long been used
in 1.-THE manufacture of the famous sausa-
ges of Lyons, and it Is to this flesh
that the red color is due. The statistics
fall to tell US 10 how much of the pro-
ceeds of this slaughter has been consumed
from absolute choice. am inclined to think
that comparatively few persons eat horse flesh
ecause they prefer it to beef; but tits sold at d
about half the price, and this is q Just consid-
Grafton with the poor. But as shall show
you, there are many who prefer the Aesh of the
horse to beef. have Just received an invita-
ton to attend a "Grand Hippophagio Ban
quet," of horse, male, and donkey flesh to be
given at the Grand Hotel, Paris, on April Sd,
the most noted advocates of hippophagy in
France. In 1865 and Sc bansuets of this kind
were given in Paris, and the great Langham
dinner of '6S is well known. This time, how
ever, ,sthe feast is to surpass any Of those hith-
erto offered. The governor of the city has con- d
sented to send the band Of the Garde de Paris' O
which delighted Americans at the Boston ju-
biee, and also took the first prize at the Paris
Exhibition. Let me give You few extracts
from the n,ean, its substantials and delicaeies1
PoTAGE. fs'e.l'-
LIE consomIne aux Trois Animeaux Difames. -aL
-.E'a) 7-l HoRs D. EoRE. 81 tl 7ib9e7l'-.
Les Saucissons de oheval aux Piments des Anglais.
B LIE Turbot q la sauce Algenenne. ,
LIE Filet de Cheval Borak rou q 7 Orientale.
'.-a'l" "aI ENTREES 'i "A-' N
Les Langues de Cheyal, de Mulet, ct d'Anea Ia
LIE Fricandeau d. Oreilles dane braise. D..
LIE Filet de Mulet a la Gelse obstinee 1.'
Then there was long list Of entrements
! such as "Les Asperges en- hanehes la sauce
Presidente - and lies Syphides la Refine
des Fleurs." Then the Gldces. the best of
which must be "Les Sorbets aux Grand Mulets
du Mont Blanc;' after q delicious assorted
dessert. the programme, wound up with
most tempting list of wines. ! always knew
the French were marvellous as cooks, and
could beat the rest of the world in making
much out of little, but / think in getting up q
''Grand Horsefesh Feast they excel. bad
a decided notion to attend this banquet for the
sake of the music, and might be induced to
taste a bit of the plainest horse meat, and
though temperance advocate, might De
tempted to test the merits of the champagne
tipple or the "Medoc rieux en- carafe." the
latter sounds first rate, even to q teetotaler.
But my good friend, when glanced over that
menu, and in holy horror my eyes rested on
Al of ol1 iaoty acoto hof rtfrht
tainted; lost all my new found interest in
hippophagy; cared nothing for the Garde de
Paris band, and "the subsequent proceedings
interested me no more. have write a TO
the obliglng journalist who sent me the invita-
ton, that owing to previous engagement
regret my inability to attend, and shall save
my twenty francs for foreign missions, or
something else.
Easter has come and gone, ana SaGkeiotn @ Ss
was rather unpleasant, and the atmosphere
chilly and raw. The bells pealed forth joy
ously at early morn peace on earth, good
to and o3 sysl s snS bs
answer. "He is risen indeed" In the fore
| noon ali the churches were crowded. and many
handsomely decorated; among them all no
larger or more appreciative audience gathered
than at Emanuel Church. Rev. DR.. Langdon's
American Episcopal All the Geneyese at
tended divine worship in the morning, and the
rest of the day was given up to social calls, ex-
cursions, and pleasant greetings generally.
will not say however that the way they keep
Easter or any Sabbath day, makes a very
pleasant impression upon me. Though the
city was crowded 1 did not hear an angry
word but all seemed bent on enjoying them
selves in a peaceful, orderly manner. The
greeting "Christ is risen" carried me back to
the days of the Apostles, and the eagerness
with which both young and old 'cutched
| eggs reminded me of the good old Dutch Gus
| toms of New York. 1919 ~ i. -
notice a question has lately been raised
about the day TO observe Easter. According to
| the almanac Easter would fall this year on the
| 2Sth of March. According to Websters die
| after or upon the 21st of March. The notice.
| able feature of the fete is, that while Christ
| mas is always on the same day of the same
month, and commemorated as the birthday Of
Christ Easter, which we observe as the time OF
| his resurrection, may faI on any day from the