The Morning herald., 1875-10-26
Chltch0t.
ON FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

Contending powers are at war just nov
) in the world of fashion. A struggle
; evidently going on between extravaganza
! exaggerated trimmings, and eccentri
fashions on the one side, and simplicity
that is, a plain style Of attire and quiet tom
of colorins on the other. Which side is te
be the winner eventually? 1t would b.
rather rash thing to decide this at once
There are, however, promising symptoms
on the side of simplicity.
As stated last month, brocaded damasks
velvets, and goods, of the most gorgeous
are now the style; with these materials, no
trimming is possible except lace or fringe;
no more rufllss, pufs, and plaitinss, conse-
quently forced return to plain, straight
lines. The price Of the toilets thus COM
posed will not be less, it is true; but ladies
of modest and economical principles will
take advantage of such change to have
their cloth or silk dresses made after the
same pattern; and will net be dressed with
less elegance on that account. Time alo,e
will show if the more quiet style Of dress
ing will be adopted.
One of the newest novelties in fall silks
now displayed is the matte silk; it is in
loosely ly-matted tresses woven in basket
checks. This is meant for over-dresses, to
be made over velvet or gros grain. 1t
comes in all the new fashionable dark
shades. The winter gros grains are ex-
ceedinsly soft and Of medium fine reps;
they are to be made up in connection with
plain and figured relvets, and are to be
purchased in all the shades. In fact there
never la. been a season when we have seen
such perfect matching in all the smallest
details of dress. Hand-woven black silks
are highly recommended for wear. They
are spun and woven entirely by hand in
stead of by tine power loom. They are
richly repped, lustrous blue-black silks,
very soft, and finely finished, and as this
is in the silk itself, it does not lose by
usage.
Striped Algerienne, like that represented
and used in the Louis XIV. costume, is the
fashionable woollen fabric in Paris, and is
being largely sold here. I. comes in gray,
black, and brown grounds, and has irregn-
lar stripes of darker shades than the
ground, intespersed with occasional lines
Of white, or of color, such as red, gold, or
blue. knickerbocker is another fabric
which promises to be very popular. The
genuine Knickcrboekers are thick, rough
looking gray and brown goods, OF soft,
pliable texture, in plain, mottled, striped,
and plaid patterns. Among the other ma
terials, we notice diagonal" which is a
stiff woollen fabric, with oblique stripes
woven across the material, and which il
very suitable for a travelling costume.
There is also light texture of tartan, a
soft flannel, and thin zephyr" with fan
cy stripe woven in it. This last-named /
light cloth is very convenient for travell-
ing costumes.
Ladies' cloth is also going to he extep-
sively used for suits later in the season:
it comes in shades Of slate-blue,. gray,
green, and plum-blus.. Flounces are not
put on skirts of this heavy material; in
stead they are trimmad With rows Of braid,
some Of which are wide and others mar
row. The overskirt is very mar
row, and is attached to'the lower skirt by |
buttons down on one side. The jacket is
loose, long, and pointed in front, with a !
short, broad English back, Byron collar,
and square pockets. A cuirass basque is
to be worn beneath this jacket. Plain gray
and brown goods are eflen trimmed with
bands Of bright colored Cashmere, such as
sapphire-blue, and dahila-red, which i'm
part to the costume quite a novel effect.
We eannot say that we particularly admire
this caprice Of fashion, but as we endeAvor
to faithfully chronicle the fashion, We give
it for the benefit Of those of our readers
whom it might please.
Many imported costumes Of indigo-blue,
bronze, prune, and plum, aretrimmed with
silver braid, not bright new silver, but of
= subdued shade, and 90 called We'll argeut.
This dead silver braid is quite the rage
now almost every lady has at least one
costume trimmed with it in her wardrobe.
These costumes are always worn over silk
skirts the table has eleven rows Of braid
around it, seven rows encircle the basque,
the same number down the front; and
there are likewise seven rows sewn on in
the form of fan down the back