Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1875-07-30
FROM ST. LOUIS TO ST. paul.
A Trip on the Upper HissfsSippi-PeE
Pictures Painted By ths Way
BigfOFle Points.
The "seeesh'' , ct held ia Remembrance
An Irish Defense of ''GOu's Conn.
try"-A Memphis WHR and Wiz
From a special Correspondent

81, LOUIS hOuuEE1 tue LiH--r tLtA4 81
noon, by boat, under weather uu- par
ticularly conducive to the cheerluiUe -s OF
comfort of friends at parting from the
tourist or Invalid just starting fUI q l0Ig
trip up the upper Mississippi. lt m5glL
have been LOngfellCw's A. rainy dsy,T
but there was no "silver lining to the
cloud" AS a Waggish friend once said
to me, perhaps the linirg was all torn
out" The first object 0f attention la
pushing out from the wharf was the
bridge, particularly the net work OF IGds
and supports underneath, which, as one
glanced up, vi5t9-Ike, st them, Tesems
bled the most exquisite lace vi tues most
curious design, the creamy tilt
with which they Wero PaiESSs3 making
the illusion more perfect. The boat was
full of passengers, the healthy gOirg FOR
pleasure, while the invalid was IL search
Of the health that the far-aWay Mime
sofa offers as an attraction, pTe-eminent
over all others. COnsumptives, victims
Of neuralgia, the ssllOW sufferer from
chills, and all who were debilit2ted and
worn out from the cares of life, both
women and men, were among the list.
1t is remarkable how striking the
change in the most PROSTATE, after
passing Dubuque. From being pale, wan
terly Indifferent as to whether they live
or die, they all at once seem imbued
with new life and buOyant spirits, with
vigorous appetite and an increased in
terest in everything. There's magic
somehow in this wonderful climate.
There are the usual amusements
aboard, dancing, pianO-playing and
singing. All seem to enjoy the time and
do justice to the very good fare Mr. Par
ker, the excellent caterer, sets b fore
them. / am now intoxicated with the
beauty and variety OF scenery On the
great river and its magnificent grandeur.
One can sit al day on the guards Of the
boat and never grow weary Of looking
at and enjoying the very rare attractions
either shore possesses. The first town
we passed was Alton, whose prison,
standing out so cOnspicuCusJy, recalled
no very pleasant memories to the mind
of sOutherners. NsuvOO il a very pic
turesque-loOkiDg town, and is interest
ing to the tourist from having been for
meTly Mormon settlement. We caught
q glimpse of where the temple once
stood. 1t would ID impossible 90 de-
scribe, in detail, all the towns
and villages we passed, each one
being interesting for some one thing or
another. In almost all there was one
particular and significant feature, add
Jog another charm and throwing a
sacred halo around what might other
wise be Of the 'earth earthly" in their
worldly interest and cares. The little
rustic church, Oftentimes almost too
bare, and occasionally painted in vulgar
hues, still pointed heavenWaTd and
offered pesce ana good will to men.
Davenport, that We passed Wednesday,
presents very handsome and
metropolitan appearance. Rock Island,
Immediately opposite, seems, by
lazy Of compensation, t.
be more hardy and practical. From
there RIl along the river the eye con-
stantly finds something to please and
excite ordinations Of wonder and de-
light. the suburbs Of Dubuque-named
for an old French settler, who is buried
in 8 very wild and conspicuous spot be-
low the city-are rich IN beautiful seem
cry, and afford rare Landscapes for an
artist. DuDiaith, directly acrcss, as
with Rock Island and Davenport, plays
q sort Of tonic to the abOve-nsmed
town. Dubuque GbOunds in coal mines,
and it is said many fortunes are acquired
yearly through this resource. It's pOpu-
latiOn is twenty-five thousand. I should
like extremely well to make a visit
there some day place of 50 much i'm
pOrtance in so many ways. Not far
from DubUque-and one does not get
weRried between these places-is a small
town called Gutenberg there ones
mind instinctively TevePts 10 the inven-
ton of printing at the sight CT the
nsme), also surrounded by fine mining
country. Still further IS another ana
romantic little town called M'G5egor,
Some ''chieI" from aUld ScOtis's shores
wandering far and fancying himself
among his highland hills, and in his
native heath, left his footprints in the
shape Of 8 name, suppose. What
queer and wide combination of names
so close Ogether-Dubuque, French
Gutenberg, German; M'GregOr,
Scotch. | wonder where the native
American is? "GOne west" | suppose,
into the sun. a little farther up aud on
the opposite side is Prairie du
CHEN, the most important city
in the upper Mississippi, for
many reasons not the least interest
ing, among which, perhaps, is the one
concerning Mr.. JEFF Davis, and which
his admirers feel an interest in. To the
passengers aboard Of our steamer who
were not aware of the fact, it wss quite
as surprising as many other things
which we hear Of great men. When
1t was mentioned that he had elOped
with his first wife, daughter Of colonel,
sfterward President Taylor, you can
have no idea of the stir it created. All
sorts OF expressions of surprise were ut
tered, and "Wby [ didn't know he ever
had another wife" heard repeatedly.
1t was equal to the ignorance regarding
him and the south generally on many
other points. AprOpOs Of this subject l
must tell you funny little thing, per-
sonal to myself. The chambeImaid, ian
italian from Cork"-by the way youa-e
acquainted with some or them-Was
asked by some hOrrid, vulgar woman
who / was-was'nt l ''stuCk up
secesh?" The chambermaid replied she
didn't know, ''yOu had better ask her."
with a rich brOgue), To which this
female salt of the earth, with a con-
temptuOus grunt and toss Of the head,
said, "Oh, well, she's some Of the JEFF
Davis crowd, | know" My friend Of
the Emerald Isle turned round from the
ironing-tsble, and planting herself be-
fore her, spit out the following: "Wel,
no matter what crowd she belongs to,
she comes from Gods country, anyhow;
there" 1 went off into regular gale
when heard it, ami patted my Irish
champion on the back for her brave de-
tense Of the forlorn "secesh." We have
had a terrific time trying 10
pass over the insidiOus saudbars.
Yesterday We were no sooner OF one
than we were on another, and last night
the same way. The boat had & dis
gorge her freight and baggage on to
barge, and even then it was a trial to
ones patience. This morning we landed
st Wabashaw, and after We started again
we were Il regular packet pIy ing across
tie river, back and forth, then backing
down, then more stating fJTward only
to encounter one II those iTeaCueTOUs
foes steambOatmen dread 50 much,
every time. The channel changes every
trip, and the pilot looks in vain '0r some
Indication on the surface TO guide him.
The bell is rung (mourLfully always to
mel for the lead II be heavej, ana pref
ty soOn is heard the weird, plsintive cry
of the sold hagd" calling Out the depth
Of wateT-What feeling Of relief when
he finds "msrk- twain" We got over
the rough place this morning about
eleven O'Clock, and immediate-
~ entered the most enchant-
ing Of all the scenery that L have
seen yet-Lake Pepin. 1t one has a
good view, he had better keep a tena-
ciOus hold of il, for everybody is run