Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1875-02-03

! ioI'ti just opposite ~. olcpnen NatneuFal
| The coffee was delicious, with nice brea,
and butter and different kinds Of little cakes
The air was cool and refreshing, and all tn,
morning papers were at hand. We sat jus
in the shadow Of st. Stephens Cathedral
that grand old pile begun in the early par
Of the twelfth century, and which has beer
in process Of either building or repairing
ever since. There is probably no city il
Europe, except Paris, where so many people
meet at the cafes and restaurants as in vi
emma. The Niennese are essentially socia
people. fond Of good eating and drinking, in
both Of which they indulge freely. Tn,
coffee ! shall ever remember as being the
best that | have drank. During my short
stay Of two days ! had but time 10 see the
outside Of the principal parts Of the city
In Vienna the old and the new come into
close contact Ten minutes walk takes you
from the heart Of the old city, with its quaint
buildings, aud narrow, winding streets, to
where broad avenues and magnificent build
ings look as new as Chicago since the fire
In the evening my husband went alone to
the Volks Garten and came home bringing
Mr.. Goodenow, the American Consul Gen
eral and Secretary Of Legation at Constan-
tinople together with Nubar Pasha, many
years Prime Minister Of the Viceroy of
Egypt They both remained to supper and
their society was very entertaining. Mr..
Goodenow has been ia Coustantinople for
many years, Is an old acquaintance Of my
husband, with whom he once made a jour
ncy in European Turkey. lie is a native Of
Maine, and is, believe a very good friend
Of Mr.. Blaine present speaker Of the House
Of Representative. Ileis so well acquainted
with the East, and knows so well the differ
ent phases of life in Turkey, on account Of
his long residence and official position there
that listened with great interest to what
he said Nubar Pasha has an European rep
utation and il Acknowledged to be by far
the ablest man Egypt The carrying out, if
not the conception Of the most useful meas.
ures during the reign Of the present Viceroy,
is ascribed to him. In every case he is q
most genial and cultivated gentleman. lie
speaks English almost as well as am Ameri-
can, and is quite as much at home in the
drawing-room as in the cabinet. His visit
was a pleasant surprise Egypt has long
since captiyated my Imagination. | had re-
Gently been in England, and had gone over
again and again the magnificent colec-
tiou of Egyptian antiquities in the British
Museum There | saw mummics which
We're as old-'ooking and dried up centuries
before the birth of Christ, as they are to-day.
On their granite coffins were hieroglyphic
inscriptions chiselled before the jews es-
capped from Egypt and Pharaoh and his
army were drowned in the Red Sea, pursued
by the avengng arm Of the God Of Israel.
Around them, in the same great hall, were
the enormous granite statues Of kings who
reigned, and of bird and animal-headed
divinities who were worshipped ages before
the foundation uf the Pyramids The his
tory Of Egypt was still fresh in my mind
from recent study: the conquest by Alex
ander the Great, and later, that by Rome !;
the career Of Cleopatra, the cunning serpent
ofthe Nile, whose conquering charms subdued
Caesar aud cost Marc Antony the Empire of
the world at Actium, and soon after his life
Egypt, a spot of earth which has ever had
irresistible attractions for great conquerors
and kings Of men. | had never before seen
an Egyptian, and now there sat before me a
man who, for many years, had exercised
controlling influence in the government of a
country which is so venerable for its anti
quity aud SO interesting on account Of the
great events which distinguish its history.
After talking about ordinary topics for
time, the tide of conversation turned on
Egypt, and then the Pasha seemed to be pc
culiarly at home. He dwclt upon the obsta.
eles to be encountered by a reforming COVER
ment by reason of the jealousy and rivalry
of European powers, who obstruct, partly
from an ignorance Of Eastern people and
their affairs and partly from motives Of self
interest. Further on, when speaking Of the
climate, soil, scenery, and people Of Egypt,
he exclaimed, am in love with my coun-
try, and know it has a great future before
it," 1t seemed So novel to hear an Eastern
Pasha say, in excellent English, 81 am in
love with my country" Before parting, he
invited as to dine on the following day ;
but as we were unable to put off our jour
ney to the Caucasus without risk Of having
to wait a week for the steamer at Odessa,
we were obliged to decline. lie then said,
you will dine with me in Cairo, and shall
make your visit to Egypt pleasant. Next
morning Mr. Goodenow joined us at the no
TEL and we all went to drink coffee opposite
st. Stephens, where we talked New England
all the time. After coffee we went TO an an
tiquarian bookstore, and found a complete
collection of the songs, popular stories, and
proverbs Of Hungary, in the Hungarian Ian.
guage-a collection now out of print and
rare. At one o'clock we started for Pesth.
The first town of interest ON the way is
in Hungary, a short distance east of the
boundary-Pressburg, in Hungarian Pos.
zony, the former capital of the Hungarian
Kingdom. 1t is very picturesquely situated
on the left bank of the Danube, and has a
population of forty-six thousand. The coun-
try for miles around is hilly, and the slopes
are covered with vineyards grapes and wine
everywhere in abundance In the centre Of
the town is the old royal CASTLE built many
centuries ago. 1t was in Pressburg that
Kossuth began that remarkable career Of
parliamentary eloquence which fired up the
whole Hungarian nation, and brought about
the revolution of 1915 Further on, the
country is not so interesting, though there
are many fine Estates and the land is fairly
well cultivated. At Neuhausel we were EN-
tertained by a Gipsy band during dinner.
giving the first specimens of the national
music of Hungary that | had heard. The
two pieces most celebrated are the Csardas
and the Bakoczy march both never fail to
arouse the enthusiasm Of Hungarian au.
dience. After dinner it was quite dark, and
SO the rest of the journey was blank till we
arrived in Pesth, at half-past eight o'clock.
EVERY man admires moral courage, even
though his own backbone be made of pulp
Luther's pluck on his way to Worms, and
before the Diet, has been applauded by many