Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1875-12-29

into the broad light of day. But impress
sive and beautiful as it was. it seemed far
inferior to the panorama Of the Monte
Rosa which burst upon our view from the
Corner Graf. 1t is true that the cold and
lonely vigils of the night had lily fitted us
to appreciate the glory of such a morning
scene. still the grandeur of these mghtiest
of the Alps, with the numerous glaciers
which descend into the beautiful valley of
Chamouny. could not fail TO awaken a
measure of enthusiasm even in the most
Indifferent spectator. Here, however, rs
in our former experience, the chief noun
tain of the range did not meet the cxpecta-
tions we had formed. The nearer mount
aims, rising apparently to much loftier
height. partially shut in the view. and
Mont Blanc failed to impress us with its
true greatness.
From this summit. over the soft and
pliable carpet of wild grass. and past oc-
casional lunches of rhododendrons, we
descended abruptly, until we reached the
impc,uous Arve. which rises Just above,
and following its course, we passed the
Glacier du Tour, and at seven o'clock
were taking our breakfast at Argentiere'
six miles from the height. with an appetite
that would fain avenge itself for supper
less night. We now entered the delightful
valley of Chamouny and having passed
the Glacier d'Argentierc. we came to the
foot of the beautiful Mer de Glace, an
immense sea Of ice which fills the highest
gorges of the chain of Mont Blanc in three
branches, and, at length. uniting in the
form Of a huge ice cataract, descends into
the valley. This glacier was of dazzling
clearness and gave us the impression of a
vast sea of transparent glass. Proceeding
farther. we passed other glaciers. until,
after one or two hours, the village Of Cha
mounv appeared before us, which was to
mark the limit of our tour. Taking a long
look ut this gigantic mountain chain, which
at this point seemed 50 near ut hand. we
retracea our steps TO Argentiere. From
Noire, and passing through its wild but
beautiful gorge. and then over the Col de
II Forcaz. we reached Martigna at about
eight in the evening. The last six miles
from the summit, down the seemingly end
less wndings Of the Forclaz road. myself
with a spr;,inel and swollen foot. and un-
der the pclting rain, told fearfully upon
our powers Of endurance, and as we threw
ourselves exhausted upon our beds that
night, we felt that our last tour among the
Alps had come to a mos. cventful, if not
disastrous. end.
On the following morning with double
need of oHr canes, we made our way to
the railway station and took the train for
Bouverct which lies on the Lake of Geneva.
We passed over the whole length of this
beautiful lake. and fully enjoyed that un-
equaled scenery, the glory of which has
been so often described. The old Castle of
Chillon, with its massive walls and towers.
seemed we'll preserved. and We thought Of
the unhappy Downward who was confined
for six years in its gloomy dungeons, and
Of Bvrons lines which have invested it
with much of the peculiar interest which
it now possesses. After four hours the
interesting old city of Geneva which lies
at the southern extremity of the lake APP
pcarci in sight. and in a few moments
more we were upon its streets. 1t is Il
city of grand hotels and pensions, of at
tractive shops and broad and delightful
promenadeS, and impresses one rs Il mol
crn and not an ancient city. The older
and newer parts are joined by six bridges
near the point where the blue waters OF
the Rhonc. with the speed of an arrow.
emerge from the lake. Contrary to the
experience of many tourists. we were quite
charmed with Geneva. and only regretted
that our stay there WAS necessarily So
short
We had now reached the limit of oul
wandcrings. and rs we turned our faces
northwaru from Geneva, we sought only
to take the most direct route to Heidelberg.
Passing for time along the shore of the
lake we then kept to the north. and the
snow capped mountains. which had been
our constant companions for more than
two weeks, were ut length shut from view
After twenty -four hours of almost contin-
uous travel the greater part of the time in
the midst of the disgusting tobacco smoke {
Of these Continental trains, we gratefully
reached oar German home. three weeks
from the day of our leaving. We had ir
the meantime walked nearly three hundred
and fifty miles while our whole tour en-
braced something more than a thousand.
In order to abridge where possible,
have omitted to make mention of many
things that were to Us Of more than ordin-
ary interest Chief among these was the
goitre which met us in nearly all the val
leys of Switzerland. and which is also
common in some portions of Germany.
1t seems to he the peculiar Inheritance OF
the peasant women, and consists OF 4 large
swelling on the front and side of the neck,
which often gives one rcpulsive appear
ance. 1t evidently does not prevent them
from engaging in their usual work, and
we did not learn that it ever occasioned
death 1t is uncertain whether it results
from the water or the climate. Another
familiar and repulsive sight is the cheal
and ghastly wooden crucifix which meets
the traveller at every turn among the Alps
1t is sufficiently common and offensive il
Germany, but much more 50 in Swizer.
land. The Swiss chalc,s, on the other
hand, cannot fail to attract the tourist
Many are mere huts, but others are very
picturesque and are faithfully represented
in the paintings which are often to be seer
on the walls of our American homes. The
roof is generally composed Of six tn ck
nesses of shingles, and these, iastctl o
being nailed or spiked. are held fast by
heavy stones These chaicts are buiIt q