The star. (Cincinnati [Ohio]) 1874-1875, 1875-01-14
New York Fashions FuII.Dress Toilettes.

and are fast discarding the familiar rose
with pearl, or pink with blue and salmon,
tor tresher fancies and more daring ar
rangements. Extreme shades of one col
or and the pretty monotone dresses of
several kindred hues are also abandoned
for odd contrasts made up ofa very light
tint of one color with a dark shade of
some opposite color, such as pale pink
with chestnut brown, sky blue with seal
brown, straw-color with garnet, or flesh
pink with emerald green. W orth excels
in devising these novel combinations,
and is using hem for the rich brocades
OF which we have already spoken. A
favorite caprice of his associates dark
gray with pale blue and carainal red,
forming most unique and tasteful toi-
lette. BrGcades are fully restored to
favor again, but instead of flowers and
stripes The more novel designs, like coins
and scales, are sought after. Velvet is
also much used for full-dress toilettes,
and instead OF black being used exclY-
sively, colored velvets are worn, es-
pecially blue in its lightest ana darkest
shades. Satin is also in tav0r again.
One OF the richest satin dresses made
this winter is in Spanish coOrS, viz,
salmon with pink hues predominatIng.
trimmed with scarlet geraniums. :.
Very stately dresses are made of the
new embossed veivets that come In deep
positive colors-gray, violet, brown, and
peacock-col0r. These have soft repped
surface, with arabesques Of seli-c0lor in
deep velvet pile. Like the rich materi-
ais just noted, these are used mostly US
accessories Of dress rather than for
full toilette. Ostrich feather bands are
its most effective trimmings. These vel
vets are new here, but were used by
Worth last winter. They cost $40 a yard,
and are used for carriage costumes ana
visiting toilettes as well rs Tor dinner
dresses.
High corsages are almost always made
with fanciiul basque-waists, though la
dies With fine full figures like the plain
corset walst extending smoothly over the
hips, and laced behind. Transparent
sleeves, short putfs, long shirred sleeves,
and antique sleeves reaching just to the
elbow are all worn with high waists.
Young ladies select high corsages with
short sleeves-a pretty and girlish fash
ion. The high neck may be heart-shaped.
pointed, or square, and those cut three
quarter low and square are also in vogue.
Low corsages are usually either pointed
or else III corset shape, though very many
imported dresses nave the round Jo-
sephine waist. A bertha finishes the
neck Of low corsages, and the sleeves are
as short as possible.
Trained skirts are of medium length,
and cling closely to the figure in front.
Snirred front breadths, elaborate tabIiers
of various kinds, and the wide flowing
pleated back breadths are the conspicu-
Gus trimmings. There are few round
Over-skirtS made with :ull-dress tOilettes,
but aprons OF every shape are seen. A
lace point, either black or white, forms
the prettiest apron, and when put on
with the back in front falls at once into
| fashionable shape. White-beaded tule
aprons come in this design; they are
edged with side-pleated tulle, and a
| flounce OF the same trims the skirt OF the
colored silk dress.
Sashes must be uniquely arranged.
The simple bow, with end streaming be-
hind, or the scarf sash worn below the
hips, will not answer now. More elabo-
rate festoOnlng is used, and scarcely any
two are placed alike. Sometimes the
wide faille ribbon starts high ON the
right side, and extends back and front to
the lett foot, where bow holds the
point; on other dresses there is a regu-
lar side trimming OF a ladder of ribbon
loops under each arm from the belt to
the foot; while another fancy has the
sash beginning on each side at the belt,
festoohed across the tournure, then
draped to the end of the train, where it
is tied in great bow and attached
TO the skirt, instead of streaming out
from 1t.
Snow-balls, s,chrysanthemum geraniums
and apple blossoms are the flowers that
lind most favor this winter, not because
they make as pretty garniture as more
dropping flowers, but because they have
been so little used. Many white dresses
are trimmed with scarlet flowers, such
as geraniums or poppies. Pink and
scarlet together are also popular in gera-
niums.and chrysanthemumsf for trimming
white dresses, OF which there are more
worn than at any previous season. An
other caprice is for variegaled gerauium
garlands, and clusters made up OF the
roSe-pink, the scarlet Lady Washington,
white and amber-colored geraniums, with
embroWned foliage, or perhaps none at
all. A cluster OF pure white snow-balls
is put on the cOfsages OF colored silks
that have no flowers elsewhere, ,and many
white fresh toilettes without an atom Of
color have iull parure OF dwarled snow
balls; other white dresses have tricolor
clusters of three chrysanthemums-plnk
outline an apron,and sometimes there are
triple garlands representing the stylish
triple apron.
Apple blossoms of whitish pink, with
thick misunderstanding woody Stems, form
lovely clusters for tulle and pale tinted
silk dresses. Some garlands are ar
ranged across the waist from the right
shoulder to the lett of the belt, and from
thence three vines are draped to form
the tablier. Roses with loose soft petals
are used alone or else are mixed with vi
olets, apple blossoms, or white lilacs.
White lilies, with grass fringe, are also
admired. Prices range from IS to $25,
according to style and quantity. Though
most dresses are laden with flowers,
there are exclusive tastes that are wear
led of them, and Tor these the modistes
use quantities of ribbons in bows Of ev-
cry conceivable shape, with the new
French blonde laces.
The French fashion Of excluding lace
from brides dresses is adopted here,
more especially for very young brides.
Simple yet very stylish wedding dresses
o: white silk have atulle overskirt made
with lengthwise putfs down The entire
front, and vine OF orange buds and
blossoms between the putfs. Tie back
OF the oyer-skirL is irregularly puffed,
and clusters OF flowers are set about on
| it. the lower skirt has wide silk
flounce edged and headed with tulle
pleating, and vine of blossoms also
heads it. Tue basque is OF pain silk, or
| else Is covered with lengthwise puffs of