Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1875-05-06

What is q panic? When wife finds
that her husband has not sufficient to
pay her milliner's bill.-Hornst. "
-
The Spring Fashions.
Beige costumes in plain twill and
check were the first to make their APP
pearance and are very becoming in the
quiet grays and browns, If neatly made.
They are usually composed of the check
and trimmed with the plain color in
fine knife plaitings or plain bands, and
are SO light and serviceable as to be ex-
tremely well fitted for travelling dresses
after spring use has been made Of them.
More costly spring costumes are COM
posed of gray or alnond-colored wool,
or silk and wool, in serge or pongee,
trimmed with plain silk bands and
mountings and worn over plain silk
skirts. OF course these styles depend
very much upon the taste of the modsste,
but we have seen sOme-the apron and
cuirasse basque striped with the silk
bands, the cuffs, small vest pockets and
collar of silk-which were complete in
design and execution and as near per-
lection in detail as dress could be.
There is no such thing to be seen, ex-
cept among the commonest class of
goods, as q suit made all of one material;
for they are always composed of two
materials, though for the street usually
of the same color. Black and gray are
permitted, however, and several shades
Of the same color are distinguished, but
these are restricted to costly materials
and wealthy persons; for the same idea
must be strictly carried Quit in all the de-
tails ofithe toilet--the parasol, the hat
and the like; and then, as these articles
can be worn with no other costume,
variety is necessary. In fact fashion as
such is more and more adapting itself to
the resources of the rich alone. Only an
artistic in her profession can make mod
ern dress and only an experienced maid
can properly arrange it upon the person
of the wearer. 1t is impossible for the
wearer herself to do this, as the skirts
are tied back SO tightly with strings that
they cannot be put on when they are in
position, but must be fastened and prop
erly draped afterward, and this must
necessarily be done by some one who
can use eyes and hands.
Fashion has no regard for economy.
1t only looks to results. A French cor
respondent speaks Of dress worn by a
celebrated leader of fashion in Paris
which took 100 yards of silk to make, but
was pronounced when completed gem,
a marvel of taste. But surely, ques-
toned some one, there is not 100 yards
of this rich fabric in that simple COS
tune? No; oh, no; but the first cutting
did not result in an inspiration. 1t
was failure, and fifty yards were sacri-
feed before the final result was worked
out" One would have supposed that 1t
might have been worked out in something
less costly than silk and damask at ten
dollars per yard. All the same we adj
wise ladies who have not large income
and no French maid to avoid complicated
designs and adhere, in spite of fashion,
to styles which they feel competent to
arrange to their satisfaction.
The skirt, of moderate length, finished
with one or two gathered or plated
fiounces, the plain draped or apron over
skirt, the side plated waist or cuirasse
bodice, the pretty sleeveless jacket, the
fichu mantilla, the princesse polonaise--
all these are styles which can be COM
passed by ordinary intelligence and come
within ordinary means, and afford suffi-
cient choice for the limitations of the
average wardrobe. An excellent form
for summer materials is the founced
walking-skirt, apron over-skirt, plain
French or side-plaited waist, and little
fichu of silk or lace. This last can either
be crossed and tied at the back or knot
ted in front and a sash tied at the back.
White pique is now only used by ladies
for gabrielle morning dresses. 1t Is
handsomely trimmed with needie-work
or Cluny lace, and with bows of pale
pink or violet ribbon down the front and
upon the sleeves--a method of decora
ton which softens the hard and stiff eff
feet of the opaque surface and renders
it more becoming. at
The fashionable shades In solid linen
are dark gray and the natural brown,
embroidered in the same color or with
white. Buff is only used in the ecru
shade and in the transparent fabrics
which require, like gaHze and grenadine,
a complete dress beneath.
Here is another evidence of how little
fashion has to do with season, climate or
considerations of cost, for these double
dresses, handsome though they undoubt-
eddy are, cost a small fortune, and are
frightfully uncomfortable in warm
weather. - Hearth and Home. So
Five per cent. of the female popula-
ton of Belgium is engaged in lace making,
little girls being apprenticed to the art at
as early an age as five, and often earning
their own living thereby. About $40 an
'.1 %. ". r.. i e. ~ -. II,