National Republican., 1875-07-02
THE SWAY OF FASHION.
Midsummer Novelties for Ladies and Gentle
man,
EccRsrRIcITY.

IaE OVAL OE fhoh4VN'
Midsummer Novelties for Ladies and Gentle
men.
EccRsrRIcITY.
Many new and eccentric fashions have been in
troduced recently, not only in styles put In odd
combinations Of colors. There are violent con-
trasts, some Of which are so picturesque that one
is gradually reconciled to the loss OF pale tnts In
the return Of the bright anilne eolors, rose, sky
blue, violet, vivid red. Just now there is o de-
cided preference for . red which is neither Grim
son nor scarlet simply red; and so the indistinct
or mode" &C eol0rs u are .s aisspPsaring m Tast sne
ter Of little import, may be inferred from the
esgerness with which the "Bismarek brown" and
therefore difcult to account for the sudden favor
which red has found, and upon which Worth aud
Pnsos have set the seal 81 The
down by the delicate coolness OF the fabrics.
Worth also revIves the polonaise with basque
cred with white, combined with soft, creamy
Tusseh silk.
GAY MADRAS PLAIDs
are as largely imported as were Dolly Warden
from cheap ginghams and cottons to soft twilled
silks. These strong contrasts rather offend criti
fa cofo.s DOsSy dsVsS from smother mania
for Indian and Persian manufactures, may result
in introducing into drspery the rich Oriental tints
into warm browns or into desd white, and the
yellowish grays so loved BY the people Of the
East. Mixtures are the law.
rUssEH SILKS.
Itis refreshing to turn to the lovely Tusseh
silks, cool, creamy-tinted batistes, open lace in
net and eers Hamburg embroidery. A flmy scru
lace costume is embroidered in Roman scroll de-
range sf in PRICE, unmads rom sas 70 u.s. Another
delicate ecru fabric is very elabor ately en-
broidered in creamy floss and gray thread, In i'm
order; others in Roman and Greek arsbesques.
Some of these new goods are to be made up in
imported fsbrtc Is Japanese iinsp' Thi, come. IN
tablier aprons and basques, embroidered with
Japanese thread in pagodss, trees gods and birds,
So. Fine summer camers hair de beges are en-
broidered in chenille and gray thread, selfcol-
ored, in large arabesques. Another new seaside
fabric Is handsome black camers hair and gren-
adine, in alternate stripes. This Is fsrty-sight
inches wide, and Is intended for overdresses,
taimss. doimans ana DssIues' Ttn large sleeves res
country wear, there are dark brown Holland
dresses. The oyerskirt, hounces and half-htting
neat pattern. Ponzee and China ginghsms arc
made up In wrappers with large Watteau fold
in the back.
COMMON SENSE.
Fashion exercises great deal OF common sense
in travelling dresses. These are made up in the
usual style of three pieces, plaids combined with
plain stufs but all elaborate. The intricsciss Of
allow. Knickerbocker woolens are very popular,
strong, yet light and soft. The ground Is plain,
with slight roughness, caused BY knotted
threads.
LINEN BUSTERS.
Linen busters are made up In several styles. A
convenient shape is the "Ulster," with pointed
hood and belt. The waist Is somewhat shaped to
the form yet Is suficiently loose to be worn over
massed into plat on the back. Russia leather
belts are plain and narrow; the little bag attached
Is no longer strictly fashionable but can be worn
as matter Of taste and convenience.
HATS AND GLOVES.
Chip is not considered so useful hat for travel
ing as q brown or black English straw. The brim
must shade the face, and the trimming should be
simply o scarf Of silk and birds wing on the side;
or the scarf may be made of grenadine or tissue,
the long ends to be brought from the ba.k and
cnts and cSlsrs are vorr vhen h.eomi51 az rn
tes If preferred, and striped stockings as matter
Of course. Undressed kid gloves are very popular,
and there are fine perfectly fitting thread gloves
with two and three buttons.
SEASIDE COSTUMES.
For the seaside there are soft cashmeres, all
manner Of soft India silks from dead-leaf brown
to the creamy pearl Of the satin Tusseh, and
pongees and silky foulard, rendered still more
cGressGnte with sbu dance Of lace. American
women are beginning to comprehend the folly OF
ssasRsre WSsre fashion roTna 70 sns
crinoline; and as woman draws inspiration from
perfect toilet. what role can she enact In a mus
lin into the folds Of which the salt air has creptH
But muslin overskirts and jackets, elaborate With
insertions of lace, will be much worn over velvet
as well as silk skirts. As women now appear like
umbrellas with the handles downward, let II be
remembered that French high heels are obsolete,
and the present difficulty Of sitting or walking is
can only be gained BY a broad fat heel to the
boot, which all fashionable bootmakers compre-
hend. The great passion for embroidered fabrcs
repeats itself In bathing suits. The new and pop
ular fabric is the Etruscan cloth, Turkish tow
cling, made up in Turkish trousers and long,
loose jackets with yokes These are very elab,
OratalV q m hrofderpd N rOlnrad WO0Iz thara
are slippers to match. Other bathing suits are
made Of gray flannel with red trimmings In the
same STYLE and Of scarlet serge trimmed with
blue. The jacket is very large and plated in .
pointed tyoke. There is q preference for oil silk
caps. There are other white t.illed flannel suits,
gay with embroidery, and Spanish bathing shoes
Of plated tow, the upper part composed Of coarse,
gray linen worked with bright wools In stars,
diamonds and crescents. Mems bathing suits are
made Of flannel striped in all colors; also Of plain
serge. The Turkish trousers are buttoned arolnd
the waist over the full plated skirt.
MoNoeRANs.
The Japanese style for monograms or full name
in the corner is the latest fashion for fine station
cry. This is in close imitation OF Japanese char
acters. There is also q very large style of mono
gram in blended colors in INIT alton OF medieval
side Of the sheet. oiher very handsome styles
have the illuminated and gilded crest at the top.
The "shadow monogram" or water mark In the
by holding It to the light. The fashionable tints
are light pearl and cream color. Granite paper
is not so popular. square and long narrow Shapes
are equally fashionable.
POINT D'ALENcoN.
A foreign fashion which has not yet reached
New York is that Of trim ning bonnets with rich,
costly laces, as Vslenclennes, Malines and Alen-
con. Two hundred dollars worth Is not consid-
cred an extravaganza. Of the genuine point
d'Alencon little Is seen in this country except In
smuggled robes, yet there is scarcely Q piece Of
the point de PAiguille, 80 coveted by women,
upon which there are not stitches or figures Of the
point d 'Alencou. The former 10 wrought over
white horsehair instead OF linen thread. To ac-
count for the extreme eestliness Of point d'Alen-
con, Its gossamer folds interviewer with delicate
traces Of roses and carnations in richest embroid
cry and airiest tissue are made wholly by hand,
worked with the finest Of needles on parchment
patterns In pieces, and Afterwards united by IN
visible seams. Twelve different hands are re-
quired to complete q single piece Of Alencon lace
The design is engraved upon q copper plate, then
printed of upon pieces Of green parchment ten
Inches long, each numbered In given order. The
pattern Is pricked upon the parchment by the
the parchment with thread upon piece Of coarse
linen stitched to the parchment; next comes the
reselcure, who makes the ground netting Of the
lace; then the fower-maker takes It In hand, and
so on. The finished lace Is cut OF from the pat
tern with q sharp razor. The joining together Of
the pieces is performed by the Gfcoteure, who
polishes up the flowers with an Instrument called
an efeot. A full robe Of Alencon Is valued at
$4,000. Douglas Jerrold has given the "History
Of q Feather" let some one write the history Of
the sensations of that exquisite dress Of Aleneon
point which has found Its way to New York.
Among other reyivals is that Of the old-fash-