The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1875-07-30

the Apostles, one OF ThOrwaldsen's greatest
works. The Saviour stands facing that door,
and with extended arms is in the attitude of
blessing the UNCOVERED grave where the great
sculptor sleeps.
The museum building il remarkable-its
style of architecture being designed as the
mausoleum of the sculptor as well as a recepta-
Gle of his works. 1t has a sepulchral appear
anee One very curious thing about the out
side of the building is. the mosaic work in de-
vious colored cement in which is represented
the arrival in Copenhagen Of a vessel bringing
his sculptures and the hauling of them to the
museum! 1t is not my purpose to do 50 difficult
thing as to describe these marbles. There are
some bas-relefs that are more exqusitely beau
tiful than anything done by pain ter that
remember to have seen.
Besides works of his own hands, Thorwald-
sen left to his native city all his paintings and
large collection of Roman, Greek and Etrus-
can antiquities All these things fill forty-two
rooms.
Nowhere in Europe have 1 seen garden so
full furnished with amusements for the peo-
pie as the Tivoli in Copenhagen. 1t is an easy
walk to it from the center OF the city and lines
of horse-cars run to it from various directions,
the fare cent and a half The water of the
harbor backs up into the garden and gives q
fine stretch for row. There are concerts
nightly, and the evening we were there there
was very amusing pantomime which was
looked at from a hillside, in the open air,
while the actors were under cover. One amuse-
ment for children, (open to all agesl is called
the Russian Alps. Is is railway on which a
carriage with two seats, runs. We start froms
platform, say 40 feet from the ground, which
we reach by stairs in kind of tower Seated
in the car and fastened by an apron, we rush
down the track at an angle of 45o and up over
rise, like mounting billdw on the seas We
pass over three of these pillows and we land on
platform about ten feet above the ground. We
go little bit like being shot out of gun. 1t
is decided improvement on sliding down hill
on sled, but it requires some nerves to do it.
Copenhagen has a lion, as all the little boys
aud girls know in the person of Hans Christian
Andersen, the famous story teller. We made
an effort to see the old gentleman, sending a
note to him out in the country. He was very
sick last winter and will never be well again.
He was too i'll to see US and sent his cards with
that message.
Last winter the President of the Chamber of
Commel - gave Andersen dinner on his roth
birthday. The bill of fare was very compli-
mentary thi.-y 70 him. Opposite each course
stood the title of one of his stories; opposite
oysters was the "Neighbor's Family; pease,
-Four Peas in Pod;' on the wine list opposite
champaign, stood "a Gay Young Man.; ;chateau
la rose "The Most Delightful Rose So all the
way this the bill of fare. The old gentleman
was delighted 1t so happened that on his
birthday he received purse of money from the
children of America; report having been cir
culated that he was in needy circumstances.
In referring to this present, Andersen said
Americas children have broken their savings
boxes to divide their treasures with their old
Danish poet, whom they believed to be in want.
This to me is page of fairy tale in the story
of my life." The health of Andersen contrasts
remarkably with that of William Hewitt with
whom we spent severaldays in Sorrento. Mr..
Howit is in his Saith year and steps off as spry
as most men.of sixty.
We are now off for Norway. Crossing the bay
IS miles to Malmo in Sweden, we take the cars
for Chrstiana. Denmark one day, Sweden
the next and then Norway. We take Lapland
next week. Our route through Sweden was so
ircuitory that we rode nearly 500 miles in that
country. The scenery in the middle part OF
Sweden reminded me of Piscataquis county in
Maine. and 1 can imagine how easy it is for
the inhabitants OF Sew Sweden feel AT home.
L think they are in better land than the one
they left. We reach Christiana little past IL
p. m. and you can Judge how it is about day
light there, when tell you, that at this hour
men were making bricks in yard just on the
outskirts of the city. The "8 hours q day"
system don't work here.
Travelling by land in Norway is peculiar
institution. They. have only a few miles Of
railroad, and the travelling is done, not in
stages, though have driven over hundreds of
miles of road as good as the best-Central Park
in New York-but by posting. The govern
ment has made excellent roads and established
| postery stations all the way along, usually
| about seven miles apart. The law requires the
| farmers to supply certain number of horses to
| each station. The vehicle in common use is q
carrIole, which is like doctors gig, but the
| body is placed well forward Of the wheels, re-
sembling in that particular the volante of
| Cuba. Behind the body of the carriele is
shelf on which to strap a small trunk, and q
box can be fastened to the dash board if neces-
tions. A person wishing to make long tour
will purchase a carriole to start with. and sell
| it at the end of his trip. As have my family
with me am obliged to hire "trille," which
is phaeton with seats for four, and retain it
during all my absence, though it will lie still
two or three weeks here while we go up to the
regions of the North Cape. 1 pay S1,S5 per
day. take two horses, and for the use of
them pay SO cents for each Norwegian mile,
which is less than English miles. For
post-boy pay s {, 10 cents each post. The
boy drives, if wish him to, and he takes the
horses back to the station whence took them.
The horses work in only one direction and
must have half an hour to rest before going
out again. OF course one is liable to be de-
layed an hour or so; but if an early start is
made we are pretty sure of fresh horses and
little delay. In several cases we waited for
the boys to go into the pasture and catch two
horses for US. ,
Now we start for the neighborhood of the
North Cape, our objective point being this
town where we take st teamer to go up the
coast. Our trale is placed on the cars for the
foot of Lake Mjorsen. Thirty or forty miles
of rail and then the steamer. Lake Mjorsen is
sixty to seventy miles long, and the days sail
up it reminds US of our sails on Lake Cham
plain. The lake is narrow and winds like o
river, and when tell you it reminded US Of
Champlain, you may be sure the scenery is
| very fine for do not know in the United
States prettier sheet of water, navigated by
steamers, than that Vermont lake. Siltehan-
mer is at the end of lake Mjorsen, and there
we passed the night.
Now began our experience in posting, and
we made the blunder Of not starting early
| enough. The early risers had the fresh horses,
| and we were obliged to wait for their return,
| and rest. We had the misfortune of having
| just ahead of us swell Parisian-American,
who required four horses. He had two tr1lles
and cart to carry his baggage. Besides an
interpreter he took with him an old family
servant whom he called his Courier" We
were immediately behind him and usually
reached the station as soon as he. At one sta
tion pair of horses which by rule were his,
| were htched to NV carriace and after we were