Wilmington journal. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1844-1895, 1875-09-10
THE Fashions.
what Will be worn in Early Au
tnnRn.

n uTSauIul IuQOI COuoS tildG GHc
princess shape in dresses is to be re-
vived. Capricious fashion has alrerdy
tired of basJues anu overskIrts, and
is bringing back this shape, which Is
similar to the Gsbriella, the waist and |
skirt is one piece, with large hanging
sleeves and the skirt heavily draped
from the front. II is to be- worn for
hom+, evening, dinner, ond even fOI
fuil dress. Notwithstanding tins, ia
bile :, overskirts, basbnes aud sacQIc
are too popular, too nyeEle',t, .,ud
200 economical to be csliy drlv' II gu, |
and Will be wO IL on al other 0.CA>I"t;.. |
especially i'll the str at. HE nhir"". |
tiled b OK skirts" will sill nt ft,aioiI- !
able, to the disgust If all iOvclo ut |
comfort. In wrap, Vel! .onf c.oai. |
WILL be worn. som: Oi these drr fifty |
tw" inches long ln the b eek. o'c4-. : |
Will r..taIn 'heIr Popularity, uI iii
new styles i' Ing ioHg III t~'nt tiI;'
benin l. For rhe ct, dock, sD!I>;
c'lors will re'a!u their popI"rrN -.
dress goods. AmGug tn; -. l. Il lovely
soft gray. Acler Is C "a steel gay.
Among t." ga color a'...-. ~r,.'',
called TOSS gnol (n.gnt'ngtle) rem II
iwool p}geo }, and pon>r'ere, ii
which all tn. cOlors of dust ar; CO..
contracted, excaed ng,y suitail- =. nnp IL
emily, for' streets III tie c,pI,iIt!oI. II
which tho OF PhlIa,'t;pltit as.
at present. Smoke cplO" J.
revived, with CurmelIte brown al.
Centennial brown, which, III compi
ment apparently to one of our national
colors, is tinged with red. There are
several green's of the invisible shades
and dusky olive. For warmer tlnts
here are several shades, very lovely,
of wine color. Brilliant tints for gas
light are red verging on orange, and
u brilliant flame color. For evening
dresses the colors are delicate aud
beautiful. a perfect shad4 of rose, n
pure blue, turquoise blue, green ami
sea foam are some Of the shades that,
displayed in exquisite silks, are enough
to turn the head on any woman, be
she able to wear them becOmlngly
Plaids will only be worn combined
with plain colors. LOuisine silks will
be worn again in plalds, of which the
dark background viii be relieved by
bars and lines of vivid scarlet. red,
straw color or blue. Among the new
importations are the faconne fabrics,
with raised flowers and figures like
the old-fash Toned damasks. An effort
will be made to revive magnificent
brocades, recalling to mind the days
of farthingales, high-heeied boots and
powder, In WOODEN goods new OK
Quisiteiy fine black Cashmere has up
peared under the name of the ''Grand
Opera brand, its soft fexibility max
ing it especially desirable in graceful
arrangement of drapery. A change
ly1,, ,lA-
| uounced. Tie coat remains, but is
made much shorter in order to permit
either q wdefowing cuff or deep frills
of the ma erlal or trimming (partlc
ularly if it be lace with an inner fail
Of lace. All the French basques Will
| be made long waistcd-a very is uri-
Gus fashion. Indeed, it would appear
that both waists and skirts are made
80 as to follow the outline of the fig
ure as much as possible. In bOnnets
there will not be much change IL
shape, but a good deal III style O.!
trimming. The most fashionable
shape retains the high prominent front
and moderate crown now in vngu",
but is short on the sides, c!ose to the
ears, and always provided With strings.
! The face trimming consists of knots,
bows and punches of TO Ters mAssed
Just above the forehead. The outside
trimming generally does not enclrclc
the crown, but Is arranged differently
upon it, to suit the taste or fancy OF
| the wehrer. Felt and velvet bOrnets
are imported to the exclusion of near
ly all other materials. For those who
can afford 1t tue rule l., felt until
| Christmas and after that velvet. Tue
new teltS are partly smooth and partly
| of the fur beaver kelt. Sometimes the
crown is of lighter shade than the
brim, and sometimes the brim is OF
two shades, dark on one side and light
on the other. Light cream color aud
pale gray felt are most fashionable,
although plenty of dark green, dark
blue and brown felts are imported
Black is the least fashionable color
| of all for bOunets, but few either of
black velvet or felt being imported.
OF course black Is too convenient to
be abandoned. Notwithstanding this
| effort toward its desertiOn. An effort
IS being made to introduce the eXquls-
ito turquoise blue aud peacock color.
Soft ribbon Is much used for trim minis
bonnets and for the strings yard long
and three and a half inches wide. that
are to be their almost iuvariable ac-
compartment during the coming season.
Some very handsome ribbons are
twllled Oh one side and have a satin
/ gloss on the other. Iwilled ribbon.
wide enough for sasnes, it used to
make the full soft loops that now de-
pend from the backs of bonnets.
eros grain ribbons will be very little
used. A novelty for trimming bon.
nets, and which, it is SAID,
may be used for costumes, is the
ecru oasmere lace. It is a fine wood
Lace made in thread Patterns, like
those of black Chantiily and of the old
fashioned white thread lace now called
Mulines. 1t IS made in Normandy and
Is much finer than the yaks and guip-
ures now worn. 1t is creamy white
and IS very effective when combined
with dark velvets. The fancy for
wings, breasts and birds continues,
threatening 80 exter innate the ''feath-
cred songsters Of the grove" The
blackbird has become favorite and
especially the black bird bronze or
Brazilian blackbird, which is not
black, but has blue and bronze shades
on its wings aud back. Inc gray
swallow, spotted pigeon and the feath
ers from the cocks tails are also used.
| The whole bird, when used, Is liked
upon wires SO that the head and wings
can be moved about IN the most ma
tural manner. The following is a de-
scription of a very stylish velvet bon
net, one of VIrot's: 1t is dark brown
velvet. trimed around the crown with
a scarf of cream colored silk and ecru
lace. A merry bronze IS on top of the
crown, guilt braid is near the edge of
the brlm, ecru lace is quilted inside the
brim, and toutfe of red and tea roses
is just above the forehead" 4 curl
Gus novelty is the Zanzibar when Wis
iting Paris. The new feature of which
is soft crown of brocaded silk in
many colors. In lingerie, colors are
still fashionable. Haudkerchiefs have
gay Madras hens, others have pink
and rose colored silk hens, stitched in.
The newest fashion in ruff5 for the
neck is linen finely crimped. To re-
turn to bonnets: Felts are very fine