, 1875-02-21
The Ere ef Rough Surfaces Dark Celers
for tho Coming Season, and
Brown t4e Farorite.
Tendency to Goods Of softness and
Filsxihiilty z-:Plaids Az tie
il. Rage.
Struggle Between the Jet and Antl.Jet
Parties--.C9flS, Collars, and
Mandkerchiefs.

From Our 0tcn Correspondent.
NEW YoRx, Feb. 47.-Fine time--ia it not ?-
TO DO planning sptipg ::'6xinggs," with the ther-
mometer or 6 degrees below zero y and the ice
! in tho streets as hard as flint Nevartheless,
We are busy il this war, doing our bost to dodge
! pneumonia, lurking in every fold Of the new
! dc-teges, and diphtheria. watching round coun-
ter-corners for the unwary who will shop in thi"
| bitter weather. There are always some pain
| fnlly "forehanded people, who desira to OBJ
tain theiE aeason:a auppi5'of apparel q month or
two before there is chance Of needing i, and
who purchase tue remains Of last yeat's fatrics
With an IN ayidllt1 tha: j. edifying-at least to ths
salesmen.
| II Is this class, then, WHO arc already in the
| dry-goods arena, aud who lead the onslaught On
| nodis:es. Between ourselves, their trouble ia
for their pains for very little that is 1aaliYne1
yet appears in retail establishments, and, II you
desire more than rnmor wherewith' to clo:ho
| yourself, you must make a pilgrimage to the
shrines Of jobbers and importers. There Jou
find Iiiley ppon pilee Of psW stpffa, shout which
sfeu EoFda:
MATERIALS:
At first glance. it seems as il there was poth-
| ing novel and how can there b anything very
noticeable when designers and wearers have
given us such variety for years , But, when
| We look farther, We find here aud there
something tbkt pteases us, and that ue do not
remember seeing befote. Fashion clings devos-
edlY to soqgh-surfsced latuice, aud there is end-
less diversity Of tWl!s, stripes, plaida. reEs,
blocks, corla. aud basket-work- The wearing is
loose and open, and you cannot help feeling that
the threads viii pull and atrajn badly They do
| not, however; for the texture is frmer than
would be supposed, and their eerEiceableness
far ezoaeds plain and ine-woven surfaces.
Even de-bege and pongee are no longer smoorh,
"a they once were but anow the general mania
tor heavy twi!ia and reps. The majority qt wool
stutfs 90 BY the pame ot camels hsir,-::ehietl5
for the reason, suppose. that there is 40 cam an
els hair il then2 And there arc, Of conr5e,
not worth mentioning. The goods Al,
| graded shadsa OF ~the aame color which indi-
cafes that costumes will be mado in contrasting
shades, and not otion III contrasting colors: This
temnds emIand me re ct the .~
| They are many, OF rathor their variations are
many for have l2ilea to note any novel posi-
| tire color among them And 20 dark azo they
that yon wotild never guess thon to be Intended
| for the verIaI season: Browne, gTays, pllms,
and maroop$; ai.leAt bordering upop black yio-
let's, blues, ns.-cpnsins-german, in depth,
to purple, Indigo, and ivy and 30 on through
the cs.egory. ;l;san white Is no longer pure, but
is IN bieacnea, cam, OF flesh, % theIeaae may
e. s6ahfs ass II HeF Fs sosbng veb S
wa bid fair to neod to June But it ID = pity.
4p qur climate, where Ee hare 70 en-
ahroad ourselves il dark tints the
for Hshtaeas and brightness during The bziaf
THE peculiarly Of the new dyes is their great
u density. The days cof thin, watery, NICER
in tlnts seem TO be Of the past. There is no
!of gray, Or gray for bfora: When you LOOK ct
| color, you know what it is without asking,-a
comfort we bare long been deprived OF.
| + reports go for ANYTHING: Or indications 1o M
either, then brown is the seasons choice. It Is
| found toning all the way from ssal to cream. Il
il neither IeddAh nor ye}lo~ish id cast but pure.
Sess and EsTnnesa tsa most res:ful st pleasant to
| the eve. The freshest shades are the beige, Or
pad{s aaS hf2I Itssta4H sss found sa y, ,a
popularity. ---
| ara as no.el rs sny nlaserial. They closely 10
| SAMPLE ChineEo silE, and are said to wash 2, 2r
| .Yhey are IN plain colors, stripes, and plaids,
and, more than all, iu nqatelasse. Aatnra!ly,
! they do not look clumsy and wa1ded, IKE The
| winter mateIasso but tho raised figures, such
10 dismonds. blocks, dots: .tspa 3 ste.. ato eleaF
| and distinct; md the material will be very pop
| ular for parts ot suits.
There is decided tendency, among the finer
grades Of goode, to Boftneas and He1ibility, rem
defing them gracefully drapable, and not
easily crushahle adv1ntazes OF Thieh no
s.afsrred that the oyerakirt, il come form
or fother, is to anger for yet another season.
f For this small favor lat us be devoutly thank
ful for thsro waa 9anger that, NTH our T.nter
ducsd to-WaE something lie what Mature has
1nade us,-s mal.gnite On the part Qt frsMon
Which good many 4lgg q. g would resent.
Did you think that pialds had had their day?
Alas. no! Their reign thus fAr has been hut tho
rlaided: silk, wco1eu, linen, cotton. Color on
Color contrasting colors. two shades Of \ color
aud one Of another, ereEy kind Of combination
that fancy can dictate: Ihe "ooisn ssutls al aEe
marked OF with bright red, blue, green, orange,
purple, or white. Tie crude silks. and even our
dear, ,ola, plain Qnakerish popgees, are ia-
spected,f and appear in lavender. ecrn bn7,
brown and eray. grounds, thre7ded by maroon.
tLetc arc silk and wool stufs. With b'ocks Of
beige wool spi1ounded by bars'o raw si1k :; tho
vhole covered BY Ightnmg-aashes at colorea
six. Grenadines IL aof s e. cQlors aTe woTen u
both with eetf-coior add contrasting huas. caf-
icoes cambrics larna, apd liuena, all haye Jlald-
ed 10 the mode. But worst Ut all sle the
''' - PLAID s1LKS
Very dark colors and white in broken checks.
beige browns in lnfnise variety, gr9ys With das..
fearful to contemplate These latter follow
something Of this order: Blue gray, white;
eera, seal, cardinal; Lavender, de;e. s:ta,sE; ;,s
from oa'' pinkhssad.cheefs e incb-bioeIs. como
in eo1ofs Ind mhite, cofot On coor, snd IN va.is-
gated colo5s. Besides the many pla.ds. and IN
SSftference to them, are tho stnpca. The neE-
Isl Of these-the Pe1sian-are etrikirs enough
70 attract the taste OF thoae whose Taste il not
10 be- relied on. For example, Pers'aa ail1 has
q gray ground, with several stripes Of different
Shades ot gray. Theee s:Hpes are broken 9t d.vid~
and scarlet In some cases, bpt one hrish: stripe
appears il others, it aeems a. i ral,'bov l,aa
been robbed to furnlsh tints- Another variafy
Of str1pes IS black and white. with rays Of co!ar
violet, blue, green, or fsl, woven across them- i
Cameo stripes (seve!al SHADES Of = color) aEe
much liked. and. made up With plain silk 1t The
da artest ahaaa. are YETI Rtyliah. The nll-faet-