Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-03-01

aid thereiore require no other Trimmings
1s'c nh 81 these coitnnS a. fully cfuai %
fpuiatd and the patterns arr those al hand
some diagonal. AMI cigN- 'derei wool Tha
new Cppn English err, .i..ssry g. also limits
TED most successfully, as pretty wheel pat
teTr> corning u body part ct the dress. AID
hand Soislc leaves or ovslS in a perfect imita-
ton OF Erg lish EN- hreidcry. the border. There
are also small chiniz patterns with foweS
bUr ers, but these arr not in demand. the
pfefercUce being decidedly for the gray
gnounds ana cloth. lace or emhroidcry pat
terms.
NEW CAsEL's-UNIR CLOTH
lnerc are no novelties excerpt In design ia
slriI : wooilcns. The fashionable ma tcrisis
are nnc camel = hair cloth. twealS aud home
spunS In invisible checks. conpOSef OF
mixture Of gray and black. or two shades of
gray or somewhat lighter combination of
bars, CT broken lines OF color running thr,. tiga
them. These will be made up into ~o<iunnes
and worn over hisck SIX skirts or n plato
of the whole dress and the check used Zoe
trimming, or the body part OF the dress msy
s Se OF e cheek 6s and E the PLAIN part ISd s
wool, always pretty, hut tame and inedeci.
i've when made up into suits, are improves
by the Introduction of irregular knots in
wool OF a darker shade nom the ground thus
gray uDon gray, brown upon ccru and tho
Ike This makes up well into Sleeveless
tuntcS. polOnaiseS and costumes. the skirts
and sleeves being composed OF SIR or poDIts
the shade OF the knots. Palmer and cheaper
materials consist of twilled dcbcge. n very
was formerly knoNn A. NUNS serge. ONLY
the twill j. hrer Also tweed mixtures al
cotton and wool 20 fine and well made a -
bC almost equal In appearance ard wear 10
TIE all wool manufactures. OF trashy la
TanCSe" silks and poplnS there are at prs
at more to be seen, The rage for softly drsp-
ing fabrics has excluded an stin ans w,rv
productions during the past few years. alt
these with the rest
SILK AND CAsHNTrF COSTUMES
Few distinction Is pressed uppn the at
tention Of the admirers OF black silks tins
season, and that L. with regard L. the differ
encc between machine and hand spun silk
Machine made siIkS-it Is asSerted-arc al
ways more or less harsh and rough. no mat
ter how rich or heavy. 10 l. the hani-spun
silks alone which preserve a perfect purity
and a SoftncSs which makes them drape
gracefully, AMI therefore adapts them par
ticularly To the present style Of costume. nc
Is not contended that the hand-Spun silks are
any more durable than a. h possible IN make
them by machine, only that they take \ soft
ct and finer finiSh, and are therefore very
! properly selected Tor dressy purposes Few
| all black SILK dresses or costumes are made
up this season. however; the demand Is toe a
mixture OF SILK and cashmere. or silk and
velvet. In the first combination the cash
mere forms the body part OF tho dress: the
| silk the fine knife pleatings, which are mar
| row, and laid so minutely a. % look like
crinping also the mountngs upon the basque
| ard sleeves. little silk side pockets, for
| example, falling collar. lining OF the narrow
stand-up collar, ploating at rhe wrists. AID
| perhaps vest. The OverSkirt is almost
| straight around, ornamental with silk straps
| across the front, open entirely down the back,
and draped and fastened together with large
| bows of black ribbons. Very rich costumes
of silk and velvet, on the contrary. are made
| with a petticoat entirely OF velvet. finished
| with deep founce. An overSSirt OF silk,
| embroidered and trimmed with wide Chaa-
| lilly lace and cuirass or close-fittIng basque.
/ embroidered and trimmed with lace. THIS
| petticOat may be worn In summer upon g.
| caSions at the seaside and in cool lO.."' ties
| with polonaise in the white ds'~ - s,-.
| ccTu open-meshed fabrics yYb'- -, s,,tre-
| duced late last season, IN he even -
| rnoySn ana becan- year, because better
| The silk costu-- e they are the rage abroad.
| m velvet % ale is also perfect in itself, Tor
| siirt .eeves are used with the velvet
| in y second pair is made OF silk and held
-sserve for future requirements.
BLACK GRENADINES.
There is a certain kind of plain. all silk.
heavily meshed grenadines which are Just as
| standard a. black silk: many ladies would a.
soon be without one as the other, and, ia
deed, one is nearly useful and available
as the other. But these are not the fashion,
able grenadines par excellence. The latter
always change their style and pattern every
season, and this year make their appearance
in small and large checker-board pa .erns,
! the squares filled in with silk nett az OF
cobweb fineness differing i'm size, the broad or
narrow bars crossing like ribbons and alter
nately in squares OF ribbed satin, plain silk
| or Grape. The stripes OF last year have lost
their vogue, some will be worn OF course. as
they are in the market, but the new imported
| costumes Will be all composed OF the cross
barred grenadines made over comple's cos
tunes OF black or cOlored silk, and the fash
| enables will copy from these. Fine Jet will be
| largely used on grenadine costumes and
| suits, because the market Il stocked with &c
but this season will finish u up. Thrifty
who want a suit TO look well two sea
SonS 6as na, avoid IL.
Lyons oNELrIEs.
Almost all the Lyons novel, are open
meshed fabrics OF silk, intended To, wear
0yeI complete undertakes OF solid silk
The All
| nsh-net and barred Mexicaines OF last season,
| Dat they produce a very different effect. by
having contrasting color or shade woven in
| Llem The new styles, for example. are a
| combination OF ecru and white, ecru aud
| brown, ecru and blue, ecra and garnet or
IN ;ie "a; are oiue UPON blue' brown upon brown.
! IN TWO not near but not exactly opposite or
| contrasting shades. These would De worn over
| SILK OF the darker shade or one of another
| color, as In the case OF the ecru and white
| which would he charming over pale pink or
| blue. Then, In addition TO the absolutely
! transparent grenadines, which require "A silk
! undertakes, there are the soft twilled satin
| damasks and matelaSSe, parts OF whose nat
| terms form netting fine "a the open work or
1 delicate stocking and thick as IL made or
| sewing SILK. The newest fabrics. I'm fine, rich
| and expensive as they are form nothing
| more than veil 10 the dress. which must
| be i'm all respects a. complete as IL worn
| Without them. The new ribbons, scarfs aad
! Deckties are In twillcd damask or matelaSSe
| patterns, and the scarfs viii form a very
| popular trimming Tor straw hats. MatelaSse
| anu NAA4AA NtalT' viii " u-SA "a ltol Cal T.
| THE ULSTER
New spring water proofs for ladies' are
| made after the Ulster" pattern FOR gentle
| men, which is a long. straight sack beited in
| from the sides upon the back and finished
| with shawl shaped hood and pockets in
! GLIDING a neat little pocket in the Gun of the
| sleeve for car fare, stamps. tickets. change,
| and the like. The same design viii be used
| for linen as the warm weather approaches.
| Though il has nothing OF beauty To recon-
| mend II. there Is something refreshing In its
plain and unpretending ugliness after the
4 "loOping" and "draping al infinitum with
which we have been nauSeatel.
| HATS AND HINTS.
/ Spring hats and bOnnets are all OF straw or
| chip, with WIDE brimS and low crowns some
what heightened by the trimming. TIE brims
! are raised or depressed partially or wholly Co
| suit the fancy OF the wearer, but are general
| ~ raised sufficiently TO admit OF a spray or
wreath OF flowers beneath. Large quantities
OF flowers are used upon dressy hats and bon
nets. and there Is a special fancy for large,
soft, white roses upon the early specimens OF
white chip and for slken scarf. which Goa
stitutes the important part of the trimming
upon hats for travelling and neglige. Navy
blue il still fashionably worn ian felt hats aud
costumes. but i'm straw 10 il not cOnsidered