Vermont watchman and State journal. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1836-1883, 1875-06-09
Journcylngs In Europe--.10.

Three days after our arrival small war
steamer, placed al the disposal Of the Gov
cnor Of the Lukhum province, was ordered
to take trip 10 Pitsounda and Gagra, the
former thirty-six and the latter fitfy-two
miles west Of Lukhum. The intermediate
time was spent in making ready for our adj
venturous expedition, which ! looked for
ward TO with more than feelings Of curiosity.
had heard much of the Caucasus, and, in
my childhood, had read Of its beautiful wo-
men sold into slavery, for the purpose Of
being transferred to Turkish harems. | re-
membered the picture in my school geogra-
ply Of the slave dealers examining young
girls Of the mountains whom they wished 10
buy, aud disputing about the price. ! had
read somewhat of the war on the Caucasus,
the long struggle Of shamyl, and finally his
capture. The savage beauty and grandeur
Of the country had greatly excited my i'm
agination, and now was about to thread
the winding defiles, and climb the mountain
sides of this, TO me, unknown land. The
steamer was 10 start at nine o'clock.'with a
fair-sized company, mostly pleasure seekers,
who wished to have a jolly evening on board,
excursions on land the day after, and good
view Of the mountains and She shore on the
return voyage. Amongst the party was the
Acting-Goyenor, Col. Freyer, with his wife,
Col Kolosof, a member of the land commits
sion, and Mr.. Russell, an English gentleman,
who joined us in making the mountain
journey. The night was dark the sea
without waves, but with a swell which
caused most Of the ladies TO seek their lodg-
ings for the night very early. At half-past
ten nice supper was served under an avn
ing on deck believe none but gentlemen
partook Aftcrsupper the sea grew rougher
and we were literally rocked in the cradle
Of the deep till five o'clock in the morn
ing, when we arrived at Pitsouuda. Ny
husband and !, accompanied by Mr. Russell,
with all our provisions and effects, landed
without any difficulty The bay was shell
tered, and the water beautifully calm. The
mountains in the early morning were ma
iestic. Mountains little after daylight,
ike houses in a city at night, seem larger
than in the daytime No one, think who
has walked home through the streets Of a
great city late at night can have failed 30
observe what a monumental appearance
buildings present, especially II the city is
not brilliantly lighted. Leaving Mr.. Rus
sell at the landing place to guard our bag
gage and his own, we started for the old
church and fortress which are about fifteen
minutes walk from the sea-shore.
Pitsounda is situated on a fiat promontory
a few feet above the sea level, and Judging
by the soil ! should say that it is land from
which the sea receded some ages ago. Our
road 10 the fortress skirted a small pine forest,
from which was waited 10y the morning
breeze a most agreeable odor About half
way between the landing and the fortress,
we met a Cossack with a cart, who readily
agreed to bring mp our effects, and thus re-
lieve Mr.. Russell, Of his monotonous post OF
sentinel on the sea-shore. The fortress and
the ancient church Of Pitsounda now ap-
peared in view, surrounded by trees, amongst
which lombardy poplar, walnut and locusts,
are the principal varieties. There are also
mulberries, which grow very rapidly in this
soil and climate. The walnuts are old with
immensely spreading branches, forming a
symmetrical head. Around some of the trees
benches have been placed, so that visitors in
summer may enjoy the grateful shade. The
fortress Is simply "a square enclosure with a
wall about fourteen feet high, built Of stone
and brick mixed together, and evidently the
remains of some previous buildings. Almost
in the centre of the enclosure is the old
church. built during the reign of the En-
peror .Iustinian, the same ruler who began
and finished the celebrated church of st.
Sophia. at Coustantinople. The whole coast
Of the Caucasus belonged at that time 10
the Eastern Empire Opposite the church
are three buildings, one occupied by an Alb
bot and three or four monks, who have been
recently sent to administer to the spiritual
needs Of pitsounda and the neigboring vii
lages. The second building is Intended for
a school, but was then, and believe is yet,
occupied by a certain Countess Ruspoli.
The third is a kitchen and dining-room for
the monks. The central building was the
one occupied by the Countess, so she was
fanked on one side by the Abbot and on the
other by the monks. Terrible position for
a lonely and unprotected female When
we arrived within the fortress, the Pitsounda
world was stll wrapped in slumber The
mountain-tops were gilded by the rising sun
which was gradually warming the cool morn
ing air the dew was glistening on the trees,
and in large clear drops was hanging on the
blades of grass which grew on the little
green in front of the church. Perfect still
ness The moment before waking all at
once some geese ducks and hens, breaking
out Of their badly fastened coops filled the
air with at least three different kinds Of
noise. The pause was broken we directed
our steps to the threshold of Countess Rus
polls residence. On the front piazza, and
near the door, was sort Of field-tent in
which we found a Mingrelian servitor of the
Countess, sleeping; at his side lay savage
looking axe with which, as it would saem,
this trusty guardian was ready 10 defend
the entrance TO the inner chambers Of his
mistress-that at least was my first impress
sion. My husband, however suggested that
it might be for the less heroic but useful
purpose of splitting kindling-wood, The
Mingrelian was sleeping so soundly that
neither the noise of our approach nor the
clamorons demonstrations OF the barn-yard
fowls was sufficient TO arouse him. We
soon heard the Cossack approaching with his
creaky cart; he shortly appeared, followed
by Mr.. Russell, who was demonstrating with
him in a somewhat loud tone of voice, and
in language which might fairly be called
strong English. Mr.. Russell saw us only af
ter the cart had stopped in front of the door
and when he had fired off his last volley Of
good wishes and blessings at the head OF tn,
! Cossack, who, not understanding word Of
what was said, took it all in good part. Tn,
cause of the trouble was, that Mr.. Russell
thought the Cossack was going in the wrong
direction, and might have the intention oi
appropriating the whole or portion of oul
| goods upon seeing us he was reassured
| Notwithstanding the hustle and alarm of ths
new arrival, the Mingrelian slept on with ad
mirable success. | now became convinced
| that his axe was used for splitting wood anC
not for guarding his lady's bower. Careless
| Mingrelian bold, bad men might have en-
tered the house in the dead of night, or il
the early morning, and stolen the Countess
while her drowsy retainer would have dis
covered his irreparable loss only when toe
late. The position reminded me of Moore''
lines in the poem, We may roam through
this world" where he describes how English
beauty is guarded.
"In England the garden OF beauty is kept
by dragon OF prudefy placed within CALI
But 50 Oh this unanabe dragon has slept
That the garden Is but earelessly watched after all"
Mr.. Russell, in his one sided conversation
with the Cossack had got his blood into good
circulation, aud being anxious for exercise
we suggested to him the propriety of Danish
ing sleep from that piazza, which he sue