The Grange advance., 1875-04-27

~
There is music.stand in the centre of
the garden, and the Khedive Band ievery.
thing is Khedive here, instead Of Royal or
lmperial plays every afternoon and even
ing. /. a.. ~. ". II @> y xs: IS :
Hearing the music, + paid piastre and
went in, delighted with the thought Of
hearing some good music, after having
heard nothing but that internal Arab din,
which they call music, fof two months.
Once in this charmed enclosure, I could
much more easily fancy myself amid the
scenes of the Arabian Knig ghts than when
at Damascus. Here was fine band, who,
by the way, played extremely we'll for
Arabs, discoursiDg music which seemed to
me most delightful, while all around were
tall. swarthy Arabs and Nubians. with
immense white turbans and long white or
black robes reaching to the feet. Here
were the women, too, with their loose
black silk ''habara'' wrapped around
them, head and all. and a black cloth
over their face from eyes to chin, with q
curious brazen support extending from
| the head over the nose to the mask. The
delightfully."- soft air, and the tropical ver-
dure around, aided the fancy.
| As soon as the sun set, it became rap
idly cold, and soon was too cold to sit out
of doors with comfort, although the day
had been quite hot.
The day after l arrived, after obtaining
my letters and going to the bankers,
where paid two per cent on my letters
Of credit, few Of us took donkeys and
went out to see the Howling Dervishers,
who hold forth in Old Cairo, about half
an hour ride.
We had barely got beyond the limits of
the swarm of donkeys and carriages,
which almost block up the street near
Shepherds Hotel, when one of the don.
keys fell, and his rider went over his
head into the dust. Scarcely had l fin
ished laughing at him, when my donkey
served me the same trick. Fortunately
donkeys are only one story high, so that
there is nothing serious about fall. We
were just too late to see the Dervishers,
and so we went on to the Island of Rho
dah, at the upper end of which is situat-
ed the Nilometer; it is merely a we'll,
connected with the river, with facilities
for measuring the depth OF. the water.
Next we visited Coptic church, the fin.
est one in the city. Some of the screens
are of very finely carved Cedar of Leba-
non. set with ivory and ebony mosa-
les.
I had conseled myself on leaving Pal
estine with the reflection that had seer.
the last sacred locality; but here we were
shown the place where the Virgin lived
while in Egypt, the basin where she
washed the infant Jesus, etc. The
houses in this quarter of the city have
projecting upper stories, and as the streets
are very narrow. the roofs often actually
touch each other. This way of building
has the advantage of making the streets
very cool.
When we returned it was the fashionable
driving hour, and there were great num-
bers OF fine turnouts on the streets, ev-
cry carriage preceded by ono or two bare
legged Arabs in white uniform, armed
with long stats to clear the way. This
is not mere display for some carriages
which were unprovided with these run
ners could scarcely get through the crowd.
| also made arrangements that day with
Mr.. Cook to take the train Saturday
morning as far up the Nile rs Asioot, and
catch the steamer there which left the
Tuesday before. They said they would
telegraph the steamer to wait there for
me.
Saturday morning was delightful, and
l enjoyed the drive Of four or five miles
to the station very much. The railway
carriages were not the most elegant, even
the irst-class; they we're battered and
cut. and covered with dust to a wonder
full depth. I scooped out hole in the
dust on the seat, and prepared for a ride
of eleven hours. AS there was nothing
especial seen along the road. I will post.
pone any description of the people until
later. The country is very rich and is
covered with groves Of date, palm and
plantations Of sugar cane. Along the
road were sugar manufactures, most of
which are very large, and one of them
employs two thousand hands.
The train reached Asioot an hour al.
ter sunset, and looked around for some
one from the steamer to take me aboard.
Not finding any one, took donkey and
went to the town, where heard the en-
couraging news that the steamer had left
at noon. My next step was to find some
place to Sleep: A man in the town who
spoke English told me Of an American
missionary there, and tried that place
first. I found that DR.. johnson had gone
to Cairo, and it being contrary to the Gus
toms Of the country for lady to enter
tain any one when she is alone, had to
make another trial. learned from Mrs.
j. that there was an American Consul in
the town, and I forthwith went to his