Litchfield enquirer., 1875-09-09
PORTUGUESE suPERsTITIoMs.

Leaving Valencia early in the morning we followed the course of the Minho tC the sea, passing on the way the fortified town of Villa Nova da Cerveira, and thu rounded by flats and marshes, with it's outlying island fortress; then, again strik ing southward by the sea-shOre, through half cultivated region which in former times was a royal forest, we reached { gloomy-lOOking fortress close to the sea- the first of series which continues along the whole coast line of the province of the Minho. -t'.-
 Toward nightfall we overtooka farmer on horseback, and when, after riding or in friendly conversation with him for $ mile or SOL asked him how far offI might be from an inn and shelter for the night he good humoredly laughed at the idea ot my condescending to put up at any place nearer than Wanna. On my telling hin that I was by no means particular, and that my guides horse was too tired fol farther travelling, he drew mp his horse tC standstilI and looked hard at me.
 ''There is house about one mile from here" said the farmer; ''you will get pooI fare and poor shelter, but none better, think, on this side of Wanna. will show you the Yay," he added.
 So saying, he trOtted on, and soon, turning aside from the main road, guided us along a vile ox-cart road, the worst oi all roads to ride over in a bad light. For about a mile we travelled up a narrow val ley. On each side of the road grew pol larded oaks and chestnuts, whose branches iicko kr,S on these trees were trained vines, whose foliage, though it was only May, already gave dense shade.
 into square walled enclosure, which was also perfectly embowered and shaded by vines, carried on stout rafters of wood, the whole supported by the side walls and by five or six stone pillars in the centre, so that the place was like huge room, the ceiling of which was of vine leaves. II farm hodse.
 The farmer stopped at the door of the house, which opened on to this yard.
 ''Why," l said to him, ''this is 8 private house"
 ''It is the house of your excellency, '' said the farmer, as he stood uncovered,
 
 old-fashioned Portuguese.
 It was, in truth, his own house; and presently man appeared to take our horses, a dog came and licked the mas- ter's hand. children issued from the house and greeted the father. and the wife stood in the doorway and welcomed us.
 Zeal cea!" the farmer called out cheerfully, which, interpreted, is supper, ~1IA A~ lal k11
 Here is gentleman who has eaten nothing since he was in Spain.
 Looking around the room entered, I saw much that should have seer in a farmers ketchen at home: the Old single barreled gun slung on the wall, the Eng fish willow pattern plates ranged on the shelves, the we'll polished, high backed, chairs, the sides of bacon hanging from the rafters. What was not like England was the quaint collection of colored prints of sacred subjects-pious daubs, fearful to the artistic eye-which hung about the walls.
 Presently our supper was on the table, and.let the reader take note that the table was not decked with a cloth ''coarse, but of snowy whiteness, Indeed, for the mat ter of that, we dld not even indulge in plates, but before each of us was placed a good sized earthen bowl and a wooden spoon. And if the reader should ask of what the meal consisted, let him know that there was one dish and a renaoUe. The dish SOpG seccdQ literally ''dry souD) made of wheaton bread, beef. cabbage, and mint, almost national dish in Portugal: |: and the remove, bG caLtue, dried codfsh, bo1led-which is quite a national dish or1 klrox vfnn rNt1 kSNo .oe fare must, indeed, be an epicure.
 Ipraised the fish for its tenderness, and hostess explained to me that to make it so it was essential that the dried fsh-which. indeed, is often, when cooked, as hard as a board-should be previously soaked for exactly eighteen hours in running water.
 Then the host filled me large tumbler of country wine, his own vintage, assuring me that wine never tastes so well as after bGcGLhue.. It is very remarkable drink, this green wine, as it is called. I have tasted the country wines of many lands, but never yet such one as this. Per fectlY sound, but possessing a.fruitiness, astringency, and sharpness enough to take one's breath away. it has yet little more alcoholic strength than claret. So full is it of what may be called vinous matter that it is hardly ever clear; 1t is apparently, however, not liked the less for being thick and muddy. To an ex- hausted man, on summers day, I know no greater restorative than full draught of this Minho wine.
 When we had eaten and drunk, the dishes were pushed "below the salt, !" and one or two of the farm servants fell to on the plentiful remainder. while we, wrap. ping ourselves In our cloaks, and leaning our elbows on the table, lighted our ciga- rettes, and proceeded to hold grave dis course.
 Knowing that my host must be curious to be told where I came from, and the purpose of my travelling. thought 1t due to his hospitality to offer him a sketch of my proceedings, in which was assisted by the horse dealer, who, after the man. ner of such squires. added fancy details illustrative of the magnifcence, wisdom, &c., of his master. ended by saying that was going to travel through Portu- gal at my pleasure. and to see whatever was curious or worthy to be seen by foreigner. .E
 The farmer nodded his head slowly once or twice, as finished. The idea was too strange to him to be taken in at OnceS 1b AaSS ue BO6 HKM nOAu O1 It,
 Your country, | dare say, is very diff ferent from Portugal, he said.
 ''Very different" answered. ''You may understand how much so when I tell you that our farmers neither grow Tnaize nor make wine." sess --...srt .F !
 ''Coitadinhosl" Door deviIsT, said the man; ''then what do they eat and drink?
 ''Well, said, cit is not so difficult as you may think. We can make all sorts oI things in England, and sell them to all countries, and then buy what we want from them For instance, there is the shirt you wear, it was made in England, and that gun, it was made there, too; SO, you see, if we wanted to eat maize ol or drink wine, we should have something to offer in exchange" Wonderful cried the farmer, quit. delighted. It was clear he had nevel been lectured before on political econo my.
 We talked on many matters. At last ] thought of questioning the farmer on subject which has always had a great in terest for me-the superstiti0us belief f and kaEna If kF1n TxonamwnkW~