Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1875-10-21
Fall Bonnets.

the beginning Of the season, and now
make graceful bonnet OF admirable pro-
portions and smaller size. The fiaring
aureoIe brim Is retained, but the crown Is
smaller. and the cottage sides ut the head
so closely that the bonnet scarcely needs
an elastic for holding it on. The ribbon
strings that we recorded as sensible
fashion, il seems, are not to serve their
natural purpose OF tying the bonnet under
the. chin, but are To be crossed behind the
head and passed around the neck as a
drapery for the neck, instead OF the black
lace scarfs lately worn. Black tulle ana
lace are used for this purpose as well as
ribbon, and this is the only way In which
black lace appears upon the bonnets.
Ecru cashmere lace is seen at all the best
millinery houses, but is most sparingly
used. Very full face trimmings, usually
of velvet elsttonne-that is, in irregular
loops, knots, half-bows, rosettes that are
placed on one side, and in many odd
curves Ia Re1adissdJtce-are IN all the
new bonnets. The stylish flowers are full
soft tufts of roses, or carnations, or arte-
mesias, with much brown foliage, messy
buds, pine cones, burs and unknown buds.
The fashion Of a dropping cluster OF
flowers low behind on the left side is
about TO be revived also that OF having
yariegaied clusters of roses-pink, red
and yellow--in a single bunch, as il from
grated bushes. More than anything
else feathers are used, and the object OF
the milliner seems TO be To place them
in new and capricious fashions. One
novel fashion is that of covering the
crown of black velvet bonnets with ruches
Of black ostrich feathers; another IS that
of having the face trimming OF shaded
feathers. with toufie of crimson roses IN
the center. Short ostrich tips are merely
fastened at the end of the quill and
made TO nod over the front, sides
or back, as fancy dictates. Some
times six short tips are massed to-
gether on one side of the hat, while the
other side is as plain as il is possible to
make it: on other hats single long
plume sweeps around the front and right
side to the back, and forms the only trim
ming. Some gold and silver galloon is
seen on the hats, but this, like the buff
lace, is used with care. Myrtle green Is
used in abundance by the milliners.
Cream-color Is the favorite light shade tor
iacings that brighten up dark velvet hats.
There are fewer bonnets Of two or three
shades OF color than were formerly seen.
One of the most stylish colors is toutre,
which is seal or otter brown. Another
brown, called HdDaRe, is said to be the
color of the new opera-house in Paris. A
new red of more vivid shade than the car
dinal is called frdise ecrasee--or crushed
Strawberries; biche, the color OF a young
fawn, is beautiful gray shade. The
felt hats in cream, pale gray, and almost
white shades are stylish, elegant and as
expensive as velvet. Those with fur
brims are used at the best houses; the
edges are raw, without binding. A favor
ite fancy for velvet aureole bonnets is 10
face the inside of the brim with shirred
silk, and below this is a full roll OF velvet
with its bows in front or its cl.if0nae loops.
Wings and birds are used TO excess. The
blue green lophophore and the Impeyan
are the first choice The soft twillel and
basket woven ribbons are most used, as
they harmonic with the twilled and Pana-
ma silks used for facings. There are also
many double-faced ribbons that are satin
on one side and gros grain on the other.
Some velvet bonnets have this ribbon
folded in bands on the satin side for trim
ming; this, as well as many dress TRIM
mings, points TO the revival Of satin, not
for entire dresses or bonnets, but for their
garniture. As dull, lusterless fabrics are
now used for the foundation of all gar
ments, the glossy brilliance of satin is
about TO be called in to relieve them.
Among the most elegant bonnets is a
black velvet aureole that is to be worn
quite far back on the head The brim is
faced with shirred twilled silk, which is
also black. Beneath this is a roll of
velvet, with bows and red carnations
above the forehead. A wide scarf of black
twilled ribbon is placed carelessly around
the crown, and ends in short, thick loops
behind. Two ostrich tips, one OF natural
gray and the other of carnation red, are
placed to nod over the front. Some of
| Virot's black velvet bonnets have soft cap
crowns, surrounded with band of small
ostrich feathers. Three black ostrich tips
droop as if suspended from the back of
the crown, and sharp, slender white
wing is erect on the side or back. Roses
with many green buds are in the face
| trimmings. A novelty is black velvet
bonnet with crown of fine, small ostrich
feathers. Two or three ostrich tips, all
black, nod over the crown, and a red
tanager is perched as If flying down the
sides. A ruche Of the black feathers with
damask roses trims the front. Strings
that lap behind and are tied around the
neck are of thick black ribbon, which is
satin on one side and gros grain on the
other. Still another black velvet with cap
crown has frills of ecru lace.
Among the most distinguished-loo
colored velvet bonnets are those of myrtle
green velvet, with facings of cream
colored silk. Shaded green velvet leaves
are above the forehead, roll Of green
velvet is under the brim, and an Impeyan
pheasant poised on the outside. Such hats
are marked $40. Another of bicle or
fawn-colored velvet has for the face trim
ming shaded ostrich ruche, in which
strawberry bow is placed On the crown
is cream colored silk scarf, edged with
cashmere lace; on the right is long,
shaded ostrich plume A seal brown vel
vet hat Of small and neat shape has
smoothly-folded bands OF gros grain of the
same color on one side, making il extreme
ly plain, while on the opposite side are
five ostrich tips clustered together. An
inch-wide band of gold galloon is laid on
the velvet band that forms the face trim
ming. A bonnet oil siate-blue velvet has
silver galloon laid on its gros grain bands.
A looped bow of ribbon and galloon Is in
front on band that encircles the head
like Greek fillet.
Fell hats xviII ba u,orn LaforA ,hx ,,.l.-,,s