New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1875-05-28
THE FASHIONS.
NOVELTIES FOR MIDSUMMER.

DRESSES FOR COMMENCEMENT DAY - EVENING
DREssEs-CooL SUMMER FABRICs-wRArs AND
CAPEs-FRESCH wRAPPERs-THE ToGUE HAT
HOUSE N-BRoNZEs-PorrERIEs-
GLASS SETS, SILVER AND GOLD sErs-FANs-
CHATEIAINEs
A great deal of attention il bestowed upon
the costumes being prepared for graduatingday.
Fine French organdie and creamy white French nansooK
used trimmed with profuson Of Italian lace, Valen
ciennes and Hamburg enbroideries. very handsome
dress Of French organdie model for those made for
young ladies, had three gathered futed hounces'
edged with vaenciennes lace the tsber was long and
sufficiently full to admit Of bouant drapery at the back
this ooped two sashes OF 0rgande with long
richly trimmed ends. The position basque had one
dart in 'front.' with insertions OF putting and swiss Ham
burg back and front. and edged with narrow lacetrm-
med ruies. The sleeves tight pulled on the out
SIDE and finished like old French sleeves with half
flowing cuff at the wrist This imported dress cost ae-
cordng to the amount OF trimming from S25 to $50
Another style made Of nainsook the skirt measures
four yards around and is trimmed with rlfes OF Ham
burg work The apron deep touching the hem OF
the dress this has side cores added 10 the front breadth
and at the back are two long, straight breadths mace
bouant the tournure The haftting jacket has one
dart, and is completed with English basque, cut
square. Dresses made from this model cost from $40 to
$50 Other imported dresses made OF transparent
organdie deliberately trimmed with Of fine knife
plating. edged with lace the overskrts are masses OF
putting and insertion with basques TO correspond These
very fine crimped plangs, done by the def fingers OF
French women are scarcely wider than cord and are
kept place by fine thread beneath There are other
very rich Of white silk with overdresses and
cuirass basques of organdie richly trimmed with pun
ings lace and neede~work Young lady graduates will
these costly dresses at watering places for evening
costumes imported model of white silk, TO be sub
sued for blue Or PINK after commencement Day, had
q tabler made OF alternate italian Naencennes inser-
ton and edgng lengthwse, and fine pufs OF organdie
very vOumnous pulls at the back caught up by
long garland of delicate eroses with dark foliage pass
ing underneath and brought up at each side sleeve
less basque. longer in front than behind was entirely
formed OF enghwise puings OF organize and lace IN
sertion, with on the front
More simple dresses are made for misses or younger
girls they very deliberately trimmed with similar
puts and Lace bu; instead OF a basque French plated
waist is made trimmed with blue or rose- oored BOWS
with sash to correspond. Italian valenciennes IL used
altogether upon these imported dresses, and Hamburg
embroidery OF Swiss nainsoOk IL preferred All white
silks and musns should be Of the creamy TINT bue-whte
must be avoided berause 1t is very unbecOmng TO the
complexion An elaborate evening toilette OF creamy
white French Organde had train skirt trimmed win
three ounces edged with vaenciennes Lace headed by
narrow pufs with ace-edged frill on each side round
apron composed Of alternate puts Of organize and
strips OF necdlework insertion enghwise with deep
le the bottom corresponding with the skirt rliies
The sash also made Of the insertion and pufngs
high basque similarly made. The sleeves formed OF
pufs and insertion were loose and open az the wrists
finished with laoeedged hounce All Of the oopngs Of
sash and taber fastened By clusters OF hawthorne
blossoms slightly tinted with soft rose-cOlor charming
French dress Of white silk tue, arranged over cos
tune OF white silk The triple skirts OF white tulle we're
trimmed with Of ntintesma knifeplats, and over
the whole were scattered clusters and garands of White
sprea relieved by dark hawthorne leaves, nternlXeI
with cascades OF yelowish Valenciennes lace.
The elegance and coslncss Of evening dresses Il very
much enhanced by profuson Of lace ordered by fash
ion White silk ue and white gros grain ia the rule Tor
wedding tocttcs and with these introduced white
satin and other rich stuff in damask silk, satin brocade,
and silk embroidery. The conventional orange blossom
has nning OF spirea, white lilac, or pale pnktnted
hawthorne blossoms, contrasting with its pure waxen
beauty again cut low with berthas Of Lace or
fine plancs and clusters Of flowers The tullc vail is
arranged as 10 fall from high dadcln Of the flowers
described below the bertha in front, and at the back
quite covering the figure. The sleeves are simply mar
row fine plating and spray OF blossoms The satin boots
or slippers dotted with my blossoms Fashion be
praised that not to be condemned to black
grenadines and black silks during the heated term
Hence ecru overresses in batise and in linen again
popular than and not only in batste but there
are fashions III gupurc open network as elaborate
as an arabcsque OF Ceni with antique designs OF ecr
linen applique There arc others having cOIofeu SILK, III
vioe, amber brown dull red applique on ecru net
The designs arc very elaborate arabeslues and are 10 be
worn over a silk dress Of the same color The simple EN-
broerv OF flowers and vines has been abandoned in the
European passion for gothic Mauresue zantine souve
Mrs extending from wOOdcarvings and pottery down TO
the decoration OF wOman's Summer wrap. These dell
cate transparent Overresses and blsques are trimmed
with ecru guipure Lace aiding greatly to ther grace ana
apparent fragiiity.
There are pretty creamy AM ecru guipure scarfs to
match these costumes and Leghorn chip Vatican
hats trimmed with black velvet ana garlands OF heath
harebels and tiny cream-coorcd blossoms, or black
feather and a cluster OF scarlet pOppics Numberless
little Summer wraps being exhibited eachmore novel
than the last. Among them is model tama made of
black drap de6 applique black gupure net in quaint
arabesques. This is trimmed around with ncwfash-
toned spanish lace its fine meshes closely covered Win
polka spots embroidered with silk by hand. Another is
black Cardinal cape covered with alternate rows OF
jet fringe and scantly gathered hounces OF French lace
Then there are manelets and scafs OF silk,
all making graceful additions to a street toilet.
French wrappers Of nansook have fronts fpungs and
Hamburg Insertion and there are knifeplangs at the
edges Of basques, and the open sleeve slightly now
ing the waist The skirts are demtran Others nave
vatican Mai. set in at the waist Negge robes OF soft
white nainsook in Vatican shape the simple trim
ming includes cuffs, collar and piece shaped for the
figure and put with needcwork with scalloped edges
A coquettsh Gabrielle wrapper OF pique had triple
plat beginning at waist and falling gracefully into
the skirt a trimming OF fine French blue Chambery was
laid in fine pas down each front and on the pockets and
sleeves. overlaid by a nounce Of Hamburg embroidery
A little pointed hood at the back was similarly made
Other STYLES have little capes made OF embroidery knife
platngs, and insertions Delicate and pretty percae
wrappers IN Gabrielle style-tha IT, Gabrielle back
and n front made TO fl with darts two according
TO fancy The sleeves ~ the French wrappers are
faring at wrist the American copies are rather
tght-ting the French sleeves much more graceful
and becoming a handsome arm. The percale chosen
for these wrappers in small nelined aids trimmed
with bias bands Of the colors IN much larger
plaids The skirt trimmings are OF plain bias bands,
from two TO four, bias hounce edged with bias