The Portland daily press., 1875-11-01
The Latest Fashions.

Brocades have at last fought their way into
favor, and are the choicest fabrics of the sea-
son. The woolen goods most bought by peo-
pie of fashion is brocaded cashmere-a pure
cashmere surface as heavy as drap d'ete,
wrought all over with raised silk figures, done
by the loom, yet scarcely to be distinguished
from hand embroidery. Thee are siugio
width and cost S4 yard. They come in all
the dark Invisible shades, and are used for
sleeveless owe rdresses, with sleeves and skirt
of velvet or of silk. The most elegant COM
bination suits of the season are made of these
choice wooden goods over velvet.
Soft, loosely woven silks with damask fig
ures woven in them are chosen in dark col
ors as parts of street costumes, and in white,
pink. blue or cream color as overdresses for
evening toilettes. There are white damask
silks for wedding and bride-maids' dresses,
showing stripes, diamonds, arabesques or
other figures on basket-woven surface, and
these are So yard, or perhaps as low as S..
All elegant novelty for q bridal dress is a
white faille overskirt with the tablier wrought
all over with seed-pearls; there are also pearl
embroideries for the corsage, the glove wrists
and the white satin slippers. Tulle founces
are also shown for trousseau dresses.
Polonaises with all the new features de-
scribed last week are again seen on the street.
Among the most elegant are those of black
matelasse and velvet. The simply-shaped
polonaise has the Marguerite back cut off
across the tournure in the middle seams, and
thus basque is formed; this basque is piped
with velvet and folded into shape. The
lowest part of the back is square-cornered,
and the space is filled in with velvet loops.
The prncesse front has wide rows of velvet
its entire length.
Black velvet lower skirts are coming to be
almost as generally worn as those of black
silk have been of late. Those who cannot
afford the entire skirt of velvet have single
deep founce of velvet, or else two narrower
ones. This compels long overskirt, as the
effect is bad if the silk skirt to which the
founces are attached is visible.
Blonde lace with silver threads woven in it
is one of the new trimmings for white Cham
berry gauze overdresses. II is very effective
by gaslight and does not tarnish.
There are also very rich silver brocades for
| full.dress toiettes. These have grounds OF
| pale color Sevres blue, pearl, salmon or rose,
with the brocaded figures of silver almost
covering the GROUND, and rendering the fab.
| ric heavy and stately-looking.
Linen lawn tichus wrought with color are
among the prettiest additions to morning
dresses They are merely squares OF the
| sheer snowy lawn, folded three-cornered, and
| scaIloped with navy blue, Turkey red or
black. They are worn high over the shoul-
ders, held in place in plaits by brooch or
| bow behind the neck, and the front ends are
| Tapped on the bosom. These are variously
called the Martha Washington and the Cen
| tennial fichus.
New white neckties are of linen lawn, ex-
| quisitely embroidered in each end and hem
| stitched all around. Some have square, some
| pointel ends, but all are without lace.
| Touffes of flowers, especially crushed roses,
are again worn at the throat or in the black
lace scarf-Harper's BdzGr.
| EASTERN RAILROAD AFFAIRs.-Mr. Thomas
| Holt has vacated the Office of chief engineer of
| the Eastern railway. Mr. Holt was some time
1 ago elected to the position of chief engineer of
| the Eastern and Maine Genital roads at an ex-
| cellent salary, and with a large number of
| clerks in the office at Portland. Mr. Tiafton
Hatch, an experienced railroad man, takes
/ Hot's place Oh the Eastern road between
| Portland and Boston. Mr.. NJ. Ingalls, be-
comes master carpenter of the road. This lat
| est ch inge is undoubte ily the final one of inn
| portance, as regards persons, in the policy be-
| gun with the selection of Mr.. Bachelor for
| superintendent All of the late changes seem
to be highly pleasing to the public along the
line. 1t is reported that change is to be made
in the passenger tariff between Boston, Lynn
and Salem, and also that the Communication
tickets will be abolished and the old package
| tickets again restored Henry L. Williams of