The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1875-11-19
Novelties I'm Dress.
NEW POLONAISES.

These show most varied shapes, but the
prevalent idea among them is the at
tempt to do away with elaborate boufiant
drapery, and make straight, simply
shaped garments. The Marguerite
seams are found in almost all backs OF
polonaises, and these seams are now
heightened more than ever by beginning
not merely in the shoulder seams, but in
the back of the neck where the shoulder
seam joins the neck This makes three
long seams down the middle of the back,
and extending over the tournure. The
pelisse polonaise is the name given to
an undraped garment Just introduced by
Worth. 1t resembles a gentleman's
double breasted frock-coat in shape, is
open plainly from the waist down the
back. has pocket-fiaps on the sides, and
is fastened by three buttons in front.
The seams in the back are like those just
described as beginning at the neck where
1t meets the shoulder, and these three
seams are almost parallel down the back,
except that the other ones taper inward
at the waist. The handsomest model of
this is of black brocade silk, stiff enough
for dowager. This silk has black satin
leaves so closely brocaded upon it that
the repped ground is almost concealed.
The trimmings are of the simplest kind,
being merely facings on the collars and
cuffs of cardinal red silk, while the
slightest line of the cardinal appears
down the back and front where the gar
ment falls open the lower edge is mere
ly hemmed. The skirt to wear with this
is plain black gros grain, with three very
fine knife-plaitings, each four inches
deep, and set quite apart from each other
instead of tapping in the present fash
ion.
SIMPLE OvERsKIRTS
Among simple and stylish overskirts is
a good design that requires but two
breadths of the wide wool goods now in
vogue, yet liz long enough and full
enough for taste. The front is q wide,
deep apron, with the fullness necessary
for length laid in two folds high across
the top. The back is a three-cornere
piece, pointed in shawl shape below,
trimmed all around, and its fullness laid
in easy plaits set on the sides of the
front. The middle of this triangular
breadth would not be long enough for the
pulled loop ut the top of the back if it
were sewed to the belt, hence it is sus-
pended by tape that is concealed under
the two double box-plaits that its width
requires.
BONNETS.
Felt hats are not chosen to match the
costumes with which they are worn, but
are trimmed with velvet and silk of the
color of the dress. Light creamywhite
and wood colored felts are chosen, and
the gloves are of the same shade. This
brightens up dark toilets, and permits
the use of very dark materials for trim
ming the hat. The most distinguished
looking bonnets are very high in front,
with close sides and very full face trim
mings. This shape is chosen for black
and dark -colored velvet bonnets for
church, visiting and receptions, and is
not nearly as large az the shapes used for
second best hats and for general wear.
For young ladies are flat-crowned haring
brim hats that are worn Just on the back
of the head, encircling it like halo, and
showing nearly all the parting on top OF
the head these are larger than the
shape just mentioned. When made OF
black velvet they are given a more youth
full look by having facings of blue or rose
silk inside-either shirred or plain-and
full trimming of shell loops, with some
times touffe of roses, or feather tip
oddly posed high on the side. The best
milliners are using gilt and silver gal
looms and ornaments little more freely
than at the first openings this season.
These look especially well with black
} velvet. Two or three black ostrich tips
are posed on end in front, on one side,
or low behind, and made to curl over as
, much as possible. Gros grain or twilled
, silk in broad deep folds is then laid
around the crown, coming up on its
sides, and ending in single loop low
, behind.
Cotton Manufacture i'm the United States.
4 Il e. a. Il.