New-York tribune., 1875-11-29
THE FASHIONS.
srrcorsr,oNs FOR HARD TINES.

UP-REYIVAL OF THk ~ohs-'S'D''-
sTYLEs-NEw yAIIS-JEwELBY AND GEMS.
Notwithstanding the pressure OF the times
vanity asserts her rights aud pride puts on her defensive
armor that Mrs Grundy may espy rent In the fam
ily money bags Yet economy Is the order OF the day
and Il must be established In way 30 let thers 10
consistency in that economy Ladies are enheaSohS
make their dresses to save thedressmakers account
What can inexperienced hands do with such compii
Gated affair as costume with its mysterious unseen
array OF tapes strings and eastics, Its drapings pulls
and platngsl As well set farmer to rig man-oiWar
This social economy TO spoil cosuy iaprics anu
most OF ALL to make pzupers OF honest WORKING women
Let each gently ynurtured lady take II into her own gfa
cIous heart TO make sacrifices OF needless
luxuries and TO keep the poor sewps-women III
work this Winter saving thereby both Dody ana
soul cultured taste, good patterns and quick linag
nation can produce home, with the practical ala OF
good sewing woman many costume quite equai 70
those made by Worth Pngot Dressmakers are not
always artists; all women OF taste are.
Fashion ia generous this in permitting great lat
tude and SO good combined with economy covers
skirt of eambric with shirred front breadhs OF sk
while the back composed Of tho sweeping plated or
court train. faded silk may be covered win DiacA
lace or foamy ruches and puilngs OF tulle From col
lection Of tulle and tarlatan ball dresses one OF TWO
charming costumes DC improvsed, particularly when
different colors arranged together; pale gray of
white with rose. and blue and sea-foam green; straw
color and dull red ivory crcamcolor with golden
and sealbrown ivory and rosy purple hesheoior anu
faint tints blue. Young ladies can superinend the
ball dresses of these airy abcs as exquisite IN erect as
a piece OF Dresden china, yet inexpensive withal
silk and tule OF frozen water-green and tea
rose can DO garlanded with wreaths OF wild
roses or gray and violet silk with bouquets
Of ccmats and hyaonths, pink and purple Tue latest
importatoDs OF moysa-dge brocades, Jdeone faDrics
covered with large arabesques the soft ana gracelu
dqnlasse sgepein, its medieval figures covering the
Iat.tt Cd vol ~
other damasks OF silk and WOOL magnificent enough
for any gyode dame medieval days FacOnne, either
black delicate evening nts ranges la price nom "a
to S6 yard. DdDdSe also comes i'll all coors at from
- % to SO the superb sergeptktn with thick twiled
bias surface covered either with large diamonds great
srabesques scrolls and fretwork aud interspersed
with medaions figured circles is 70 yard; doodsSe
of another sort br0ch6 figures OF lighter shade OF
silk or comes in blocks OF cloth colors, for - yard
and an exquisitey fine drap de6 closely embossed with
silk figures "a inches wide, and selling for - and -
yard MaelaSst, OF the antest possible tnts OF rose
blue ivory, and AMBER for opera wraps costs from 70
to IS 30.
All these fabrics rich and costly, yet being COM
bined ith PLAN silk velvet or wool, do not after all
make extravagant toilet The sleeves ana SKIRT, at
present must alike, While the ,"ersbrt and basque
polonaise made Of the same mateflo ana must
invariably be composed OF the figured sufs. Anvsler
source OF economy is the extreme scantness OF skirts
and the possibility of rcmodeing those Of past date
1t would absurd to rich velvet skirt with
long clinging Oyerskirt therefore deep h0unco OF
velvet is enough 90 DC disclosed, and can be made on
plain and inexpensive skirt These economies are
simply an avoidance OF the late extreme Of fash
iofnbe extrava gance and waste of costly material and
are being practced by the richest Women handsome
vet useful oyorskift Is made, for instance Of three
long straight breadhs Of velvet fastened to rho band
OF .e upper skirt directly back Of the apron, and al
though forms the back Of the overskirt, yet it com
pletely the uBdcrskrt The apron must be deep
aud round rimned on the edge and up the front The
plain cuirass basque has velvet back, silk 'front.' and
.k sleeves novelty Is very wide box plated rucho
placed ssound the edge Of the skirt Of velvet or silk
Another new attraction in tho way of an elegant toilet
is rich embossed sa with raised velvet figures of va
rlou- shades. This is - basque and train over
velvet for a dinner dress.
In many of these costly costumes trimmings are alto
gether abandoned superfuous and exravagant. The
jacquard casmirs 5rOeh6 fabrics heavy scileHno, and
brocades are simply henmcd faced The artistic folds
of the drapery thus disclosed and the only oria-
mcutaton consists OF the quaint rcticule pocket Tho
scarf Overskrt is artistic than any other. II Is
gracefully draped below the hips aud fastened ct the
back by long loose loops aud sashes new material
in Roman coors closely interwOyen OF pure spun
raw silk In tiny stripes dots and specks This is "a
Inches Wide and - 30 ayard and - made up mostly in
simple Gabrielle shape, and the princesse polOnaisc
There are very beautiful newly imported costumes OF
cashmere IN shades Of brown, prne, navy blue, and
black The DaSlues cvCrshirts and hOunces OF the un
derskr are exqusely embroidered in haif cooTs, with
silk finished the edges with silk Ene-plaitinss
Another style has Ornamentotion OF veyei pyramids,
also embroidered, aud seal brown costume Is embroid
cred IN three shades Of brown. Ia boxes, unmade
combination suits silk and cashmere There deep
side pltitcd Gounce OF silk and three embroidered
hounces the oyerskirt the back draping Is con
Gnci by ssshes ana LONG loops OF silk.
Among otuer dainty new things are Japan morning
gowns made Of soft Japan silk uod with silk OF con
traiting color and wadded with cotton lighter than
down that grows In the south OF China. They
simply trimmed with bright cOored silkcn cords Another
style embroidered By the Japan in gag silks
flowers In small clusters single sprays OF roses, an
infinite variety OF birds and brilliant little butterflies
form border half yard deep. The polonalse has
again returned TO life in a shape and with It's old
namc the Marguerite Being combination OF The basque
and oyerskr il is simply finely fitting cuirass basque
oined to an overskirt u is extremely becoming to all
figures very longauI the back daplng Is extremely sim
pie and novel The basque shape must set with exquisite
plainness the hips and back and be without trim
ming excepting piping cord s,psl fold Of silk. The
sleeves may be Of the same fabric according to choice
with cuffs of silk, and there is Byron collar already
described. The skirt IL double width cloth, and re-
quires only three breadths, the back being com
posed OF single breadth 1t is cut straight
all Of tho fullncss being brought into plaits
IN the middle OF the back sashes made OF single width
Of silk are fastened side just above the edge OF the
basque and hold the drapery at the back. French
odses advocate cutting the culrass basques bias,
best adapted to fall into line" The imported Jackets
and walking slcques OF last summer had the backs cut
bias The effect very evident In the peculiar ncey
OF the shape Some OF the French scques are mado
with Dclman back and sacque trout the sleeves begin
ming at the elbow in Dolman style; the fabric is
wool maelasss heavily trimmed with s0uiehe laid in
many rows to represent broad bands. Louis XIV.
basket-woyen cloth sacque oddly trimmed with medal
lions az regular intervals, lado Of sOaiache very
eaboratcly made wrap OF black cloth has several rows
Of wide braid used In the trimming, glittering with gold
an omen back IL simulated by laeings OF sken