The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1875-10-28
The Fashions.


AT the last openings of the season mo-
distes display the latest novelties designed
in the Partisan workshops. The most
conspicuous feature of the past week
is the marked intention to restore the polo
naise to favor. At the best houses these
garments were as frequently presented as
the cuirass and Over-skirt. and modiStes
say that long-wai>ted polonaises very
slightly dTaped will be the most distin-
guished over-dresSes Of the winter for
rich costumes of velvet. damask. fish
scale brocade, camel's hair and Sicilicnne.
Some Of these are like long redingotes.
and are labeled prlncesse Over-dresses.
They are made with the straight princcsse
front falling open about the knee, or else
buttoned its entire length and showing
three rows of small buttons. The back is
the long wasted Marguerite shape. with
many long seams ending in Il square
basque, or else going into the skirt, with
bows at the end of the seams. In some
cases the back of the polonalse forms a
square train that may be Topped or left
flowing at will, while in others the back
is merely a halflong basque, like that of
a dcmi-~ polonaise.
The most graceful design yet imported
for the prinCesSe dress is called the IIOr-
tense robe. 1t is made in Gabrielle shape.
with skirt and waist in one but its plain
ness is relieved by a scarf sash draped be-
low the hips, by a basque back and a
tichu. An elegant model is OF seal brown
brocadC lin the small scale-like design
now in vogue combined with plain brown
gros grain. The long dress is of the bro
Cade, and the edge of the skirt has pvra-
mids of silk anticipating let in each
seam near the foot. The sleeves are silk.
with knife plaitings. The tichu is of
folded silk, and the wide scarf sash of silk
holds the skirt smooth and plain on the
front and sides, drupes the figure SUI,
ticiently, and gives a rather bouttant eff
feet behind. Such dresses are also shown
in black velvet, trimmed with gros grain
and fringe, and in black silk united with
cardinal red silk.
The front of costumes is the objective
point for trimming this season. Parish
ennes have abandoned t~ournures and all
boutiant e%tfec.s, and the garniture is now
masscd in front or on the sides. Jabots,
folds, bows, tabliers and pockets trim the
front and sides abundantly, yet the fash
ion Of tying the skirt back remains and
thus the fullness is masscd behind.
Sleeves are also verymuch trimmed this
season. There is less shirring and putting
upon them. but there is a fancy for rows
of horizontal folds, for irregular plaits
across the whole front of the sleeves and
for deep cuffs that trim the sleeve TO the
elbow.
Notwithstanding fringes and laccs are
50 lavishly used, there is a fine style found
in the new untrimmed garments that makes
them very popular. There are over-skirts
and p~olonaises of the richest fabrics that
are merely hemmcd or faced, and thus the
purchaser can afford to invest more money
in the material Of her suit.
Muif> are made to match the new cos
tune. Dresses of brocaded velvet and
silk have mutfs of the velvet oraameHted
with small bouquets of flowers Feather
mutfs, exceedingly light, small and warm,
are also shown to match the feather border
of costumes.
Of all garments that have grown longer
cloaks show the most decided increase in
length. The long pelisses and basquincs,
nearly fitted TO the figure, are revived for
cloth cloaks, while long French sacques
with loose backs are used for those of silk
that are lined with fur. Dolmans are also
longer and have ample sleeves from the
elbows to the wrist.
New wedding-dresses are of soft, luster-
less taille, trimmed with a galloon of
white tulle wrought with pearls, and also
with picot crepe Iisse that is scalloped and
finished with narrow purl edging' or
braid. These dresses have square court
trains, elaborate tabliers and cuirass
basques. The flowers are white crushed
roses and eglantine. Fichus and scarf
sashes are on other wedding,dresses and
on the tulle dresses of bridesmaids.
Evening dresses are composed of two
or three materials, such as soft damask
silk over faille. with velvet ~flounces. or
else damask gauze over silk, with lace or
crepe lisse trimmings. The square trains
already described, the cuirasses, scarfs,
tichus and large pockets are repeated on
the most elaborate evening dresses. Cor
set waists and low round necks, with
dceply-pointed front and basque backs,
are shown for low corsages; there are also
three quarter low corsages, cut with square
necks. Berthas of folds, lace, flowers and
fringe trim the necks of low waists. The
bertha is usually made of the material of
the tablier, such as damask, silk or Cham
berry gauze, while the waist and skirt are
of silk. Trains are lot extremely long.
Aprons reach to the foot of the dress. The
back brea6ths are not very boutfant, and
are arranged in soft puffs, shirred wings,
revers, wide box-plaits and large orna
mental bows. Flowers still border the
deep apron and trim the tablier, but a
newer arrangement is to mass them in
thick clusters down the sides from belt to
foot.-Hdrper'S Bdzar.