New-York tribune., 1875-08-07
ALONGsHORE.

NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. GARDENS
popruovEsE THRrT-THE ARM OF AAssA-
c1fusErTs.
.ox AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE rRIBuNEl
u.rAporsETT, Mass, July 3l.-THE TRIBUNE OF
snr,s,.v intimates that the knowledge Of this and
.aher ouiet hooks may give them popularity which
-;oh, in the end introduce the very conventional
..r,. Of Summer fashion came here to avoid.
49,, clad TO state that Mattapoisett is well secured
.r.;nst such a danger. Is there not committee Of
n,,c,sen among the Summer residents to detect
"a pnnish all infractions of our holiday freedomf
The presdent thereof, distinguished Boston lawyer.
;nforms me that the first otiense-city costume and
.:,, hours for instance-will be punished by repri-
,ond the second by fine' and the third by Danish
rept. Since this is generally understood there are
fewer white shirts to be seen, ana only natural
cloves coaeur de cure When lady wears vail, it
y spresumed that her eyes weak. The young girls
now about the harbor alone ride drive at all hours
and are not ashamed Of the healthy tan upon their
faces. l warn all future visitors, who may be at
trsced hther by my account of these sleepy shores
AGAINST bringing any supcrfne airs with them.
II is hardly possible to find safer og more delightful
,rater for sailing than this. Almost invariably, the
.outhwest breeze sets in about 1 O. nj. and blows
until sunset and the axis of the Bay, from Mat
tspoisett to Woods Hole is southeast, boats run out
and hack with the wind abeam. The Atlantic swell
never enters, and only gale from the east makes
the water too rough for pleasure. Even during such
gale last week, the gentlemen were able TO oathe
a usual, in the harbor here.
TRIP UP CAPE COD.
Three days ago. pucked up resolution enough for
rapid trip to the end of Cape Cod through region
which in spte Of the pictures drawn by ThOreau and
NordboA is still little known TO the holiday tourist
OF course, such flying visit of mine must deal only
with obvious characteristics; but may at least in
A;cate how much one can see i'll simply going and re-
turning by rail.
At the station of fremont ten miles northeast OF
this place, the road turns eastward. entering the
broader base Of the peninsula, which stretches out
RI miles before il turns sharply to the norhward.
The country is low, marshy and tmckly wooded,
with few signs of settlement, at first, between the
stations At Wareham where there is large roll
ing-mill we strike arm of Buzzards Bay; at Co
basset Narrows, another, and here branch railway
INNS southwark 70 FamOuth-the favorite route to
Nartba's Vineyard as the breadth of the sound be-
tween the two places is only miles. The project of
n aship-canal uniting Buzzards with Cape Cod Bay,
ut this point has long been discussed 1t Is entirely
practicable, and its Importance to the eoastng-trade
needs no explanation but the difference IN tides and
and currents on the two sides of the peninsula sug-
sests possible results the character OF which cannot
he determined in advance. If it should introduce a
oold stream into these mia waters, uttpcHlHS anu
broadening from its increasing force, the climate
of the southern coast would be sensibly affected.
The rouchness and monotOny Of the landscape
.eased A. we approached Sandwich. 1t was pleasant
IN zee a low hill now and then, to exchange thick
sts for fields and to find frequent evidences OF con-
tented settlement. The small white farm-houses,
however lose their character OF age and seem as new
A the newest every time they are repainted Only
tbe ston,-f fences look venerable, and indicate two
centuries of possession. When covered by hchens
oyerrun with the doeiduous ivy and half hidden by
brambles, they become quite picturesque and give
An air of Importance the small patches of corn OF
Urass they inclOse saw very few farms, the crops
npon which appeared sufficient for the needs Of the
owners.
Fmther toward BaFnstahle the country becomes
more omen and the sea-horzon Of Cape Cod Bay is
visible in the Dortb Barnstabe, with it's new out
living villas and it's ancient, shaded streets, gives an
fmpressjon of comfort and stability as We pass
Three miles further is Yarmouth, whence short
line branches off to Hyannis, the port OF departure
for Nantucket. Half the xain leaves, and only the
Cape Cod passengers remain hear no more talk
Of Duncan, Sherman & Co., stocks, OF imitation, but
alusons to voyages commercial ventures, experl-
ences in foreign ports, pounds sterling, francs and
Sonbloons The region through which we speed.
eovered with something between thicket and for
est seems to be high gently rolling tabe-lald
for the pale moist sea-sky, on all sides, somehow
.uogests distance and depth. We are probably not
more than 100 feet above the ocean-Ievel, and
avery cutting shows pure sand under an exceedingly
thin coating OF soil.
CAPE sCRNKRY.
Al the station for Harwich a stage with 1onf
horses waits for passengers for Chatham, con-
siderable town at the southeastern corner VI
.ho Cane There is more travel and traffic than
tofS End in n aDparpnt Wilderness
and the people who come and 60 have all a smart
>shr;ftv air Neither do find very pronounced
neIect sucb as Thoreau reports in his conversations
with them the Yankee character shows ltseii III
peculiayitv Of voice and intonaOn, rather than IN
Mioms The men Of Cape Goa, In fact from their
sea-faring lives ought to be decidedly less provn-
eal in speech and manner than their brethren vi the
inland But slight exaggeration,ln writing US Ill
painting is an easy device for Tightening pictur
esque effect and there is consequently great tempta-
tOn TO Use ii.
From Uarwich TO PrOvincetown about 80 miles,
the road runs northward, up the forearm cf the
Cane. The Bay comes in sight, on the hft, soon
after leaving the former place, and is thenceforward
almost continually seen but failed to catch single
glimpse of the Atlantic over the bare swells or Des
of low woodland on the East. Between Harwich
and Orleans there is, indeed, large, lonely lake.
oyerhung by bluffs of yellow sand crowned with
nine and it may be an inlet OF the ocean: the
desolation Of the place to which Nature ins gwen
only three forms of outline and three melancholy
o,o,s made it almost sublime. Next came Eastman,
nm the left with "a wood OF oaktrecs called Miilen-
nium Grove" on the bay-shore, while on The other
aide stretches the Open sandy land Of Nauset as bleak
and windy as the English downs, but not 80 green
Yet tbe scattered farnhouses did not seem at all for
lorn or povertystricken: where there was field Of
corn or potatoes it looked ourishns, and every damp