Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1875-03-18
Spring Bonnels and Hats.

creased size, noticed when they are bare,
Is not so conspicuous after the trimming
Ia added. The crown retains its simple
shape, and the increase is principally in
the tiaring brim, which projects out far
enough in front to cover q very full face
trimming. The shape most largely im-
ported has the brim quite wide above the
forehead, sloping narrower along the
sides, somewhat indented above the ears
and scarcely an inch wide behind This
shape is displayed in white, black and
brown chips, and in black thread net !;
about seven bonnets out of ten are Of
white chip. The chip used is very
narrow braid, finer and softer than any
before imported
The novelty for trimming is the dam
ask scarf of soft ribbon, but gros grain
of fine reps is the material most used on
French bonnets. This appears in con.
trasting colors most frequently, and all
the odd stylish combinations are repre-
sented, such as pink with garnet, or straw
with navy blue. Cream color, which is
the new and fashionable shade, goes with
everything; this is really the color of
rich cream, and looks very much like
soiled white. A great deal of ribbon of
medium widths is used; the twilled,
damask and gros grain ribbons all APP
pear.
Flowers will be worn in even greater
abundance than at present; as an in
stance of this one Partisan hat, of black
Chautilly net, has fourteen blown roses,
twelve buds, and twenty sprigs OF mig
nonette A wreath for full trimming
under the brim Is the favorite floral ar
rangement; sometimes small bouquet
is added outside, either very low down
behind or else quite on the top; the
sides of the bonnet have very little trim
ming. The test of new roses Is blowing
their petals apart as loose and naturally
as II they were real. White roses are
seen in profusion, also pale businesses
and the dark crimson Agrippina; all
straw, cream, and yellow. tinted flowers,
especially roses, will be stylish. Large
flowers are most in favor, and small ones
are exaggerated; there are mammoth
white clover, overgrown apple blossoms,
and eglantine of unnatural size. WIeaths
have three soft-petaled roses in the
center, with the green foliage matted to-
gether on each side. Geraniums are
such favorite flowers that they come in
white, purple, and amber, as well as in
their natural pink and scarlet.
In the arrangement OF trimming the
object seems TO be to place 1t as irreg-
ularly as possible. Thus the crown is
not encircled by band but Is trimmed
on the front, right side and back, leaving
the left side bare; moreover, there are
no regular set bows to be seen, but in
stead are long loops of ribbon or perhaps
some futed or pleated loops of gros
grain arranged in most capricious fash.
ion. Two or three high pleated loops or
some irregular puffs are placed in front
of the crown; folded band of gros
grain of two shades passes down the right
side and Ia festooned or pleated in low
dropping loops behind long streamers OF
gros grain ribbon also droop from be-
meath the crown. Inside the brim is a
facing of plain velvet or else of pulled
silk Just across the head rests q roll or
twist of ribbon and this supports flower
cluster or else wreath Thus 1t will be
seen that the flaring front Of the brim Is
the objective point for trimming both
outside and In the bonnet. There are
no strings, but the dropping streamers
behind detract from the compact look of
| last summers hats. Damask scarfs
are sometimes twisted beneath the
brim with long, flowing ends behind, and
In other cases they are twined around
the crown. A border OF eight or ten
braids OF chip of another color edges
some bonnets; thus navy blue or black
edges are ON white, or white on black.
Many hats display four or five colors
when the flowers are added for instance,
a white chip trimmed with black velvet
has pink and garnet flowers, while a
brown swallow nestles on the crown; q
black bonnet Is trimmed with pale gray
and blue gros grain, and The roses are
dark crimson; third, also white, Is
trimmed with navy blue faced with
cream. color, and its flowers are pink
roses and white deutzia.
Black net bonnets are Of plain Brussels
net, or else very fine sprigged Chantilly
net, trimmed with an edge OF the same
lace and ropes of fine jet beads. White
roses without foliage, and set three In a
cluster, trim MISUNDERSTANDING black
hats; other have similar clusters OF dark
brownish-red roses, without any OF the
crimson shading Of the favorite Agrip-
pima and the Jacques Minot roses. Very
few feathers are used; occasionally q
short, curied ostrich tip, an aigrette or
pompon Is placed high on the front /;
sometimes brown or gray swallow Is
perched on the crown, or seems ready to
dart down the front.
A stylish black chip bonnet Is trimmed
with dove and sky-blue gros grain. The
doye-color forms an erect loop on the
front, is folded In five tiny folds on tbs
right side, faced with q blue fold, and
droops in loops behind TO support bou-
quet made up of a crimson rose, a blush
and Tea roses, some black pansies, dan
delion gone TO seed, and mignonette.
A pure, fresh ecru chip has three high
loops of pale blue gros grain In front, an
ostrich tip stuck in the loops, bias band
of three folds on the left side, nothing on
the right, and two long ends Of ribbon
behind. The brim Is faced with black
velvet, and has pale blue roll support
ing three soft white roses yelled with
black lace.
A third is white chip with a pulled
facing of flesh pink silk inside the brim,
holding brown bird. Around the crown
outside Is a wreath Of twenty roses--some
pink, others crimson--with loops and
ends of pink ribbon.
A black Brussels net bonnet has a
scarf of creamy white damask ribbon
under the brim, with ends hanging be-
hind. Three white roses flecked with
pink are clustered together on the left OF
the brim and three dark red ones, also