Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-04-01
with wooden in the picturesque forms Of
which during the past two years we have
had so many examples.

WHICH t1e past TWO years We nave
had so many examples.
BLACK, WHITE AND COFFEE COLOR.
The new belize, or coffee shade is the sue
cess, as well as the novelty, OF the season in
color. 1t appears i'm twilled and armure silk.
In damask silk, in Grape. in French chip
6onnets, as before mentioned. in few choice
feathers. in lace in a new article. ..grenadine
guipure," for jackets, polonaise and cos
TUNES; and the same pale tint is also checked
and striped in new summer silks upon cream
white Grenadlne guipure Is woven imi-
tation of the English embroidery of last sea-
son. The open wheel and compass patterns
are precisely the same, but of course IL is not
so expensive, although in the finer qualities
II Is still sufficiently so,-S250 per yard. orli-
nary width. Trimmed with lace matching
the exquisite tint it's distinguished, and may
De worn over BLACK, blue crimson or cflocO-
late brown with almost equally good effect
II Will undoubtedly be the flvorite fabric for
summer costumes at the watering places
The cOOrs, il should be said, are not confined
10 one, but they all belong TO the same fami
ly. In addition to the light coffee brown
There are smoke tints and shades OF gray. but
tneIe are none so fashionable or so we'll likel
as the first mentioned Black and white APP
pear 10 much advantage in checked meXi-
Gaines, all silk and woven of coarse threads.
almost like SILK canvass. These are used for
Poincesse overdresses without sleeves, the
sleeves being composed of very rich black
silk, like the plain trained skirt, A dress OF
thls Kind, well made, looks as if il were
modeied 10 the figure. and though completed
without fold or puff or particle of trimming.
Is elegant enough for "A duchess.
JET AND GRENADINE.
Whether jet VIII continue tO be used and
whether ii Will be used or not upon grena-
ulDe seems TO nave excited the liVeliest kind
OF interest IN the average feminine mind
That IL Will be used TO a considerable extent
there as no doubt, but it certainly would not
be wise to purchase il in large quantities or
of costly kinds, unless the purchaser could
afford TO lay ii aside at the end of the season
or was strong minded enough to wear 1t
when 40 longer fashionable. All the author
iticS concur in stating that Jet will not be
worn after the present season. and il prot,a-
bly, will not be faShiOnably worn. JET is 80
quickly run into the ground by quantity OF
cheap limitations and the prOfusion with
which they are worn, that il cannot long re
tain vogue with persons ofeXcluSive tastes.
But III l. really beautiful after all and moth
ing more effective as a trimming for grena-
dine can be imagined than the rich nettei
frlngeS and wide, lace-likc, sewing silk in
sertions with Just SODT-cOa of let. fine cut
introduced into the edges ami headings
Fashionable dress makers will use as much
a. possible OF IL, because there is a great deal
in the market, and IL is made AN Obiec, with
Them 10 do so Ladies OF mol eTate means.
however, had better trim with lace which
VIII nave Il permanent value, or with knife
pleatlngs Of the material as pretty and sly
lish trimming as can be used and one that
can be put 10 other uses. To partially solve
The problem OF warmth and cost, which are
obstacles To building up a handsome grena-
dine dress upon black silk. many ladies' have
plain gOred skirt and lining waist made of
plain twilled black foulard, and the pleatcd
founces OF the lower skirt simply mounted
upon il. The OVerdress then covers the up-
per part and tight moderately Good and eff
fectlve costume is obtained at n not eNtraV-
agant expense. Flounces to the waist which
were so fashionable last season for summer
silks and grenadines, are replaced this wear
by the wide triple plat, or for walking skirts
by the draping and fulneSS given TO the over
skirt. Skirt waists will be made err suite or
worn as independent waists as much as ever
only instead OF boxpleats fine side pleats are
laid.
SUMNER LAWNS AND FICHUs
Inc revival OF the summer fichu and small
mantllla Will enable ladies who live or spend
The summer Ill the country to revei again in
the linen lawns and other fabrics, which are
at once clean, cool and desirable. \ white
Dun or blue lawn may be made with a goreI
walking skirt, cut rather low behind and
trimmed with two gathered or pleatei
hounccs, pleated waist plain sleeves with
small, pleated. faring cuff, and an apron tieI
behind with sash or attached TO a belt. the
fulneSs being pleated up into bands which
are confined with button. A fichu or man
telrt OF black lace, or white lace. or black
SILK. or crepe. trimmed with lace or fringe
converts this simple dress into a pretty coun-
try walking costume, and not only pretty
out one having certain air of distinction
from its very simplicity. These summer
manteletS are talnas with ends which NAV
be knOtted i'm front or carried round to the
back, where they will answer the purpose of
q sash. That Is to say, they are deep upon
the shoulder and rounded like cape. rather
Than cut high like "a pelerine or an indoor
hchu. a charming little costume for use on
various occasions might he made, consisting
OF an apron and one OF these little manteleiS
IN cofee-colOred guipure. A very small
amount of material would be required. and
II could be used with almost any dress
LINGREE.
There is a revival of the Byron collar and
tuT1-dOwn cufl-SleeVes of the newest Stylp
are made close at the wrist, and the cuf
turned down over it, Silk dresses, with
shirted sleeves. have deep cuffs of Old Mech
I'm lace turned down over them and cuffs and
collars. or cOllaretteS TO match. Deep turn
down linen collars are horri bly, unbecoming
and will have some difficulty i'm ma king their
way To the front after the comfort and good
taste exhibited in the narrow standing col
lars with their small corners turned down
over the pretty neck-ti and the cleaniy little
yoke attached.
CONCH SHELL JEWELRY.
The novelty in jewelry consists of exquisite
cameo sets cut in cOnch- shell and very deli
cately mounted. The pure tintS and semi
TRANSPARENCY harmOniZe well with the pre-
vailng sentiment in dress. and though The
fashion is and is likely To remain an exclu-
>ive one. for ii is a choice. and somewhat
costly without the solid value Of gold or
diamonds. yet il is very charming.
HANDKERCHIEFS
The little handkerchiefs OF white batiste.
with colored borders, are now'universal for
morning wear and have thrown quantities
ofwhlte linen ones upon the market at half
Ir,