New-York tribune., 1875-08-20
ALONGSHORE.
LITTER FROM MR.. BAYARD TAYLOR.


SCENERY or THK CAPE ANN PENINsULA-McHARD
HENRY pANAs HOME-INCRHAsE OF THE SUM-
MER POPULATfON-HOTEL-KRY IN AMERICA.
iyRox AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT THE TRIBUNE.
MANCHESTER, Mass, Aug. 9.-The curtain falls
upon the warm, quiet waters, the low, sandy shores,
the indolent Summer life, which seems as il it
ALWAYS had existed, and would continue forever; ;
then, after pause during which railway train
may run eighty miles, it rises upon very
different scene. We pass from the atmosphere
of the Gulf Stream to that Of the soit-
ened but not wholly subdued Labrador current; #;
and the aspect of the coast changes with that OF the
sea- The poets may decide which is bride and when
il bridegroom. would only suggest that ma'abite
sempcr does not apply to the land. Let us rather
say that, like all harmonously married couples,
each gradually acquires a subtle resemblance 10 the
other in feature and temperament They resist,
yet embrace they bring out even In antagonlsn,
the highest manifestation of each others power and
beauty, and to those who truly know both. each is
incomplete without the other.
There seems to be difference of ten degrees OF
latitude between Mattapoisett and Manchester. Not
that the vegetation has materially changed In the
short distance between the two points, but there IS
another atmosphere. there other coors, abundant
evidences of very different character of Summer life.
strikes into tho peninsula of Cape Ann-at first
quie. region Of low woods and modest farms, but
gaining bolder features Of rock and hill, and blue
CLEANS of the sea, as we advance. Ine
trains, at this season, are crowded to over
flowing. ! think there isSmuch more holiday travel
more days ants of families, picncs and Summer
visting-n proportion to tile whole population, in
Boston than in New-York. partial reason for this
may be found in the railroad service. which is here
the best in the United States. Going up the Hudson
River in Summer, / have formerly seen tfty pas
sengers obliged to stand, as far as Peckskill even
last Winter, on the old road from Syracuse to
Rochester, invariably found passengers enough
for three cars cranmed into two; but the BOs-
tonians are better cared for, and better protected
individually, than the rest of us.
Beyond a station called Beverly Farms, where
there il beautiful private park, the scenery becomes
wild and rugged and the signs of wealth and lux
ulous leisure life increase. The bald headlands
are crowned with mansard-roofed Villas the former
brery slopes are civilized into grass and shrubbery,
and there more pony carriages than farm wagons
on the country roads. The bay, dotted with barren
sets. and the opposite coast of Marblchead, enter
into the view. and almost fancy ourselves to be
in a city suburb when we leave the train at Man
chester.
The village is modest little place, about seven
miles west of Gloucester and twelve from the end OF
the Cape. shallow inlet here opens to the bay be-
tween hcadlands of gray rock, which are repeated,
further inland in the shape of high knobs and bluiS,
rising against background of long ridges of forest
All this picturesque. irregular coast is dotted with
charming Summer castles and cottages On Glass
Head, at the mouth of the inlet the Rev Dr. BartOl
has a mansion and lofty detached tower in the top
of which he has established a study. Here he is able
to take broad views of the world in double sense
The crest of the peninsula beyOnd-a rocky mount,
called Thunderbolt Hill-iscrowned with the quaint
old fashioned residence of James T. Fields on the
slope between it and the sea Junius Brutus Booth
makes his perch and Gilbert whom we all know is
near at hand, on the opposite side.
BEAUTIES OF THE REGION.
From the cottage Of the friend to whom we are
indebted for delightful sojourn of three days here
all the beauties of the region are visible The front
verandah oyerlooks the lire of coast the picturesque
rocky ses, and the opposite shore of the bay. the
view terminating arc of sea horizon. We have
but to turn our heads and the inlet, the VII
lage. the bluffs and swelling waves Of forest, melt
ing into distant grays and purples under sky
which ,just now at least il more English than
American. There is perpetual breeze, with strength
enough on its wings to refresh aud not exhaust
The foliage is Opulent and varied in color. the helds
and meadow exquistey green, and there's a mix
ture of savage nature and aboriOus culture through
out the landscape which continually surprises US
with effects of contrast. Most Of the cOyes between
the rocky abutments of the coast admit OF surf
bathing; but notice that the tonic of the air gem
orally preferred to that of the wave.
A great charm of the place is the wild. wooded
scenery of the inland. There arc many little val
leys, branching and winding as if at random, where
Al. ,h.,tul l. lars
the shade and GOODNESS and silence seem to transfer
YOU at once to the heart of some mountain wilder
ness The noise Of the sea does not invade them
even the salt odor of the air is smothcred by the
warIn resinous breath of the pines. Here you find
slender brooks, pools spangled with pond-liy bios
SONS and marshes all in a tangle with wild howers
After two or three miles of such scenery, there Is no
greater surprise than to find, suddenly, blue far
deeper than that of the sky between the treetrunks
and TO hear tho roar Of the breakers hundred feet
below you.
During drive with my friend, passed, some
where among the woods, the Summer hOIHe Of Ernest
Longfelow, who finds excellent work for his pencil
ut his very door-stop. Here is instance, in the
cases of Schiller and Browning, where the genius OF
the poet changes, by inheritance into that OF the
artist. Ernest LOngfellows ability was born with
him. not acquired. 1 remember collection OF por-
traits in pencil, made when ne could not nave Deen
more than ten twelve years old. He has already
painted the most satisfactory head of his father and
all his work gives evidence of honest study and un-
interrupted growth.
A short distance further we came upon castle by
the sea, built of gray stone, and of very original
design, an Italian loggia being combined with
Norman Gothic features in the building. 1t is the
residence of Mr.. Greeley Curtis of Boston. Around
il the rOughness of the native pine forest has been
softened in the most admirable manner, turf borders
melting naturally into huckeberry thickets, and
geraniums growing amicably in the midst OF ferns
Co maj