The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1875-05-13
BOnnets and Hats.

THE latest impOrtatiOns of French mil
linery are large bOnnetS with fiat crowns
and wide brims. These bonnets are
worn tar back on the head, and the brim
is covered by full wreath of flowers,
not merely a branch or vine but an en-
tire wreath, the ends of which meet to-
gether behind. This style is very hand
some for white chip bonncts that are
trimmed with biack-miXed velvet and
gros grain and fine white flowers. No
color is as much used by stylish MILL
ners as rich creamy white silk, and we
are rapidly returning to the pure white
bonnets of seven years ago. a great
many black bonnets are still used, but
the preference evidently is for light col
ors, and, with leaders of fashion, for
white bonnets. Black bonnets are no
longer entirely black but are frightened
up by bows, scarfs and pipings of creamy
white gros grain or else by the deep
scarlet hues now so much in vogue,
either in silk or in flowers; the few
black bonnets that have no relief of
color have very tinely-cut Jet leaves and
bands on the coronet brim to give luster
to the dull, rich gros grain of which they
are made. A braid of silver around the
edge of French bonnets is not objected
to by the most fastidous tastes, but the
heavy tilagree ornaments have a tawdry
look. The band of chip of contrasting
color used as border on hat brims has
become very popular and is seen at the
best houses. Damask ribbons are not
liked as well as the less snowy twilled
ribbons, yet they are chosen to wear
with costumes made partly of damask
silk and partly of gros grain. Very few
feathers are seen on bonnets, though
round hats are still trimmed with them;
even those designed for midsummer
have wings and plumes. The profusion
of flowers increases until the material
of the bonnet is almost concealed by
them. Two long sprays of flowers hang
ing from the back down to the waist are
worn on young ladies' bonnets.
The Derby hat already described is
the round hat sent out by the best Paris
ian milliners. This has an ample high
round crown with sufficient brim to shade
the eyes well. This brim does not come
to point on the forehead, but is wide
above the brow, and is rolled back from
the edge all around. Black, brown and
white chip Derby hats are imported.
The first black one sent out py
fashionable French milliner has
black satin cord on the edge of
the brim and black velvet laid
smoothly on top of the brim where
it rolls. A scarf of cream colored gros
grain and another of black velvet are
twisted together around the crown. A
long cream-colored ostrich feather starts
from the front and sweeps over the
crown, and a sharp black wing is stuck
in the front slightly toward the left side.
White chip Derby hats are similarly
trimmed with black velvet and white
gros grain and black and white ostrich
feathers. The roll ON the edge of the
brim is not merely binding OF velvet,
but seems to be thick piping cord; 1t is
set on for ornament, and the fine braid
of the brim is not concealed by facings;
sometimes another cord or piping of
velvet or of gros grain is inserted in the
braid half an inch from the edge of the
brim. A stylish white Derby has mig
nonette green velvet and plumes for
trimming; another of pearl-colored chip
has bottle green velvet for trimming, and
long Mercutio plume of pearl gray
Brown chip hats have scarfs with long
streamers of brown gros grain pinked
on the edges, with wings and plumes
Of cream.coor and brown,