New Orleans Republican. [volume] (New Orleans, La) 1867-1878, 1875-04-04
IT'S THIRTY YEARS SINCE.

pleasure in contrasting the eDJNynents OF
the past with the perplexities of the present.
The Phoenix itself is a substantial and I'M
pretending establishment, not glittering
with mahogany counters, fancy decanters,
extensive mirrors aud pictures of the can
can school. The Phoenix relies rather on
its established reputation to retain friends
than to attract customers. The old standbys
like quiet glass of lager and a good cigar.
The incessant roll and thump Of the ten.
pin alley no more disturb them than the
clatter of the wheels affects miller. Mine
host'of the PhGnix usually presides at
these accidental meetings, and the habitues
fall into some such discourses as follows:
"You rememember the committee of gas
tlteurs or tasters upon which we served
upon occasion of the Jenny Lind visit -
Perfectly. can almost taste the good
cheer now"
Let those Of us who we're not there at
least hear the bill of fare -
"YOu shall. In the degenerate revenues
of the day you can not imagine solo
singer receiving $4,000 for a single per-
formance nor Of $3.50 paid for seat at the
performance"
We expressed incredulity, and our host
added meditatively: "If star gets out of
town with his wardrobe aud traps he is as
happy as an escaped convict" The mar
rator proceeded:
Jenny Lind was expected. The pre-
cursor of her advent was LIE Grand Smith"
Lost at sea-" atterward said our host in
a foot note.
"He arrived and placed himself in imme-
date communication with the press, he
told us coniidentially "Jenny"-he spoke of
her as famous trotter; or doing her mile
under 2:37L3, or renowned ratter backed to
kill her twenty five inside of five minutes.
'Jenny" said LIE Grand, has one weakness:
1.-THE avenue toaher heart is her stomach.
She is good feeder, and he who places her
in communication with gosd cook lays
her under obligations which she will gen
erously repay. Gentlemen, if l can supply
this want it may possibly be worth a bene.
fit to me, ard that is safe at $4,000. Apart
from this she will Oblige the public more
with the good humOr and inspiration Of
good cookery.
'.The idea was accepted. There was
committee chosen to prepare accommoda-
tions for Miss Lind. You and myself, my
friend, were active and ardent members.
1--WE first interviewed the great Madame
Pontalba in person. She was impressed
with the importance to the reputation of
New Orleans as the metropolis of art and
accomplishments. Her desire was that it
should be seen as a mirage of Paris reflect
cd from the intervening ocean. She at
once placed tie central tenement of the
Pontalba buiiding-then just finished-at
the disposal of Mile. Lind and suite. She
did more. The apartments were fitted with
a style of upholstery and attendance worthy
a princess OF the blood Bourbon. Nothing
could have excelled it. This, then, was
arranged to the delight of the Grand Smith,
who saw in imagination the posters an
nouncing his benefit. He admonished us
that the great difficulty was to come. The
press grasped and thrOttled this difficulty.
A cOnvOcation of restaurants was called by
public notice. A competitive examination
and rehearsal was 10 be held, and the prize
OF superiority was civic crown of parsly.
with q gold medal and the title chef de
cMisi,ie de la reine du chant. 1t was all to
ing was all to be done In that language, and |
the audience were chiefly from that cOun- |
try"
The restaurants of those days we're more |
numerous and far more elegant than those of |
the present. They were all summoned by Cir
cular, and each sent representative to wait |
on the committee. Those of the less renown
were courteously tabooed. The contest was
to two, Victor and another. These
we're told that the committee expected
sample repasts, that they might judge which
competitor might be conscentiously com
terms. 1t was then announced that Boudro,
the renowned cuisinier at the Lake, de-
handed to enter the lists also 1t was
before the town of Milneburg had been
into the city with the balance
If the parish as at present. Exceptions
we're taken to his non residence, but as he
proposed to erect his batte,ie de cuisine
within the city, the committee could not
With propriety object to the additional din
Ter which he offered. 1t is of the cOmpeti
i've repast that the memory of our friend
'eminds him; of the soups, the fish, the
iands, the vegetables; OF the pastry that
elted in the mouth; of the whole repast
ich rested on the stomach like good
ocience; and Of the wines which evapO
y in wit and song, and made such re-
hs gay and genial beyond description.
., memory combines the feast of reason
., NE gustatory glories of the banquet. |
mmitree ate with decOrOus fulmali
= ~, three splendid repasts. The chair
:. at the head of the table, the secre
=. the foot. The hill of fare was
,r.. by the secretary, discussed and {
49, by striking out and inserting as
= 1ty determined. Each bill was
- Ii suhjeeted to the same discus-
=, ~ es,ion being upon the merits "f
bon and sauce. The material .
aionable. II remember, there I
hcited discussion and the ser G
puby. was called into reQui- {
,;o, r, decided by close vote q
Ras entitled to the nom I
o.: nv, Nniuority was greatly eX- r
,.a npromise proposition to !
noa+ ~. a.. Is before coming to $
c;s;,, - gied but lest on recon (
,.rat;o, r, suggestion, conveyed IN !.
Nan that there could not =
noss;,,,,, +; a prolonged c0mpari- o