The Redwood gazette. [volume] (Redwood Falls, Minn.) 1873-1940, 1875-10-21
Fall B0nnets.

1rlVdte mllllneTS nave l2Q their TALL
openings Of bonnets, and settled the mat
ter of shapes for the season. Fashionable
French milliners have already modified
the extremely large bonnets sent out at
the beginning of the season, and now
make graceful bonnet of admirable pro-
portions and smaller size. The flaring
smaller, and the cottage sides fit the head
so closely that the bonnet scarcely needs
an elastic for holding it on. The ribbon
strings that we recorded as a sensible
fashion, it seems, are not to serve their
natural purpose of tying the bonnet under
the chin, but are to be crossed behind the
head and passed around the neck as
drapery for the neck, instead Of the black
lace scarfs lately worn. Black tulle and
lace are used for this purpose as we'll as
ribbon, and this is the only way in which
black lace appears upon the bonnets.
Ecru cashmere lace is seen at all the best
MILNE cry houses, but is most sparingly
used. Very full face trimmings, usually
of velvet chifo'sne-that is, in irregular
loops, knots, half-bows, rosettes that are
placed ON one side, and in many odd
curves q la Renaissance-are in all the
new bonnets. The stylish flowers are full
soft tufts Of roses, or carnations, or arte-
mesias, with much brown foliage, messy
buds, pine cones, burs and unknown buds.
The fashion of a dropping cluster of
flowers low behind on the left side is
about to be revived; also that of having
variegated clusters of roses-pink, red
grated bushes. More than anything
else feathers are used, and the object Of
the milliner seems to be to place them
in new and capricious fashions. One
novel fashion is that of covering the
crown of black velvet bonnets with ruches
of black ostrich feathers; another is that
of having the face trimming of shaded
feathers, with touffe of crimson roses in
the center. Short ostrich tips are merely
fastened at the end of the quill and
made to nod over the front, sides
or back, as fancy dictates. Some
times six short tips are massed to-
gether on one side Of the hat, while the
other side is as plain as it is possible to
make it; on other hats single long
plume sweeps around the front and right
side to the back, and forms the only trim
ming. Some gold and silver galloon is
seen on the hats, but this, like the buff
lace, is used with care. Myrtle green is
used in abundance by the millinsrs.
Cream-color is the favorite light shade for
facings that brighten up dark velvet hats.
There are fewer bOnnets of two or three
shades of a color than were formerly seen.
One of the most stylish colors is losttre
which is seal or otter brown. Another
brown, called Ha0ane, is said to be the
color of the new opera house in Paris. A
new red of more vivid shade than the car
dinal is called fraise ecr0see-or crushed
strawberries; biche, the color of young
fawn, is a beautiful gray shade. The
felt hats in cream, pale gray, and almost
white shades are stylish, elegant, and as
expensive as velvet. Those with fur
brims are used at the best houses; the
edges are raw, without binding. A favor
lite fancy for velvet aureole bonnets is to
face the inside of the brim with shirred
silk, and below this is full roll of velvet
with its bows in front or its chi1onae loops
| Wings and birds are used to excess. The
blue green lophophore and the Impeyan
are the first choice. The soft twillei and
basket-woven ribbons are most used, as
they harmonic with the twilled and Pana-
ma silks used for facings. There are also
many double-faced ribbons that are satin
on one side and gros grain on the other.
Some velvet bonnets have this ribbon
folded in bands on the satin side for trim
ming; this, as well as many dress trim
mings, points to the revival of satin, not
for entire dresses or bonnets, but for their
garniture. As dull, lusterless fabrics are
now used for the foundation of all gar
ments, the glossy brilliance of satin is
about to be called in to relieve them.
Among the most elegant bonnets is a
black velvet aureole that is to be worn
quite far back on the head. The brim is
faced with shirred twilled silk, which is
also black. Beneath this is a roll of
velvet, with bows and red carnations
above the forehead. A wide scarf of black
twilled ribbon is placed carelessly around
the crown, and ends in short, thick loops
behind. Two ostrich tips, one of natural
gray and the other of carnation red, are
placed to nod over the front. Some of
Virot's black velvet bonnets have soft cap
crowns, surrounded with band of small
ostrich feathers. Three black ostrich tins
droop as if suspended from the back of
the crown, and a sharp, slender white
wing is erect on the side or back. Roses
with many green buds are in the face
trimmings. A novelty is a black velvet
bonnet with crown of fine, small ostrich
feathers. Two or three ostrich tips, all
black, nod over the crown, and red
tanager is perched as if flying down the
sides. A ruche of the black feathers with
damask roses trims the front. Strings
that lap behind and are tied around the
neck are of thick black ribbon, which is
satin on one side and gros grain on the
other. Still another black velvet with cap
crown has friils of ecru lace.
/ Among the most distinp11ished. COOKING