The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1875-09-28
TIE FREAKS OF FASHION.
MTVGLTNG or METtLS. FEATHFRS.
Am BIRDS HTTH COSTUMES.

likewise appcpr woven among the threads OF
hraids, gallnOrs. passcmcntcrics, frinncs, and
laces Metal buckles and metal ornaments of
various kinds are seen alsO on hats and bonnets,
mingled with liccs. feathers. uiume-, wings, and
whole hirds Of various kinds. 50 ingcniuusly
are these materials managed by the sklful mo
diste and millincr that they do not produce the
startling effects that might be supposed No
costume Is made entirely Of any large figured or
pinided cr geld or silver brucadcd falric, bat
these are applied in small quantities to enlivcn
solid materials moreover the threads Of metal
are SO lne and thrown in 80 sparinRly that they
surprise and please rather than offend the eye.
None 81 the b:aid- arc entirely ~ metal, and
the buckles and other ornaments ere In dead
and bright gold. silver. copper, OF steel. Jeanne
dare belts OF metal arc added to almost every
| toilet, and thcV are perhaps the most striking
novelty introduced. and ono which ladies OF
| consecutive tastcr will cdopt with caution
| rhoy arc very pretty. huf too cuuspiruous Tor
| street wcar Indeed. all those metallic acc.sso-
lies should bc reserved for house ana CART. re
! tuil"ts. The same APPLIES to large ulaids aud
| aide stripes; hut they are certainly king
tr-h huii In popularity Tor the street. Stll many
! dies viii never adopt these pronounced STYLES.
| Therefore, when we desctt.c them, our readers
these harlequin fashions, ae m,st sttiking
STYLES are always disrlayed bv merchants ana
modiste- at the tcginning 81 every season, but
| only few extremists adopt them
AN IMPORTED WONDER.
! For instance. few New York women would
wear such toilet a. one shown among the
! latest importations OF a leading house IN this
city, at one ot the private openings Of this week
| he shou trained skirt Is Of rlum-colored
| faillc. trimmed thus; On the bottom Is a plisse
NJ the s.nr. headed with q bias volante - plaid
velvet II the same color. This vuante h bound
| with q hrnradc uf many culufs. deep rose beng
| the prevailing hue. envened ny silver threads.
| he sgnie hru' de forms the heading oi the
purnlc Glad velvet. Another plisse, vulantc.
! and torsadc If placed above the lower one. the
twC-inch space between being Med with wide
! liian tfaid oi black mohair. tnicddcd WIN
| SILVER. Two graduated titan hratds are placed
| .bo,y the second row ut trims ing, making
| larnture which reaches ABOVE tue knee. lhc
| iprJn cvcrskirt and sleeveless Jacket worn
with THIS skirt are of AlEertenne cloth. striped ia
| uruhd siriI ~ PUN ana rose color. mar lined
| vita silver. ON tne bottom aud sides of the
apron is ric' silver and ilN oullion iIn-e Tie
| cuiois II tue fringe are plum, rose COLOR ana
! Black, tha silver appc. ring only in occasional
hair ln,s. The h,aaine of This ifinEe Is very
iirh. 'ui Go" disssy effect ~ tue iron l- still
ial .hci in,i a~ed bN another row 81 the ifingc.
/ GIVING ttc tn",f e q double anrpu. Hg'Nt'u
t.e RVS of fringe are rows of the black gnd
j siiNcr Ut q. ud Two graduated rows are Put
anusc 'hc upper fiuEc il-o. Tue lru1d
sa.n wa.ch Top this apron In TIE
ilIG velvet the ottcr 81 ffvcd e.. They are
| yt.rrfll4 loouel. a4id trim med Win fringe nj
/ ~ 90 ftsil no thH bottom. the .tNef j. gwen
svo-t ot hrorade huttourng 1! The throat with
-hy,r Nltrr'e huttors. line only trimming Is "a
aud iu tie armhole-. She br id t. made to form
econiettir patterns at tne turning OF he corner,
]
thc toe Of tue Hrmholf. In the neck Is "a stand
inn collar OF siivsr biycadc edged with black
] cniorei file. with trimmings al the wris, OF
brucade, velvet. aud Titan braid. rich t.ssel-
led orndint ut ot passcnCntrrie, To- match the
fringe, Is placed on each sleeve, among the
| trimmings near the elbow. IhiS toilet Is made
| compile e 10y a hat OF cream .ored felt. on
which appears plum-colored velvet, silver bro
| cdde. and giIioon, a rose-col0red ostrich plume.
three crushed ro-es, silver hiasrcc ornament,
and two illnting ends OF rose. cOorcd ribbon.
| when and wncrc to wcHr such dress Is the
! question that suggests iiscf. Certainly neither
waking II driving Yet We are told that tns
dr,ss Is inV9icel 'tpuofe &c tis'ie q Il "a,
| house anu Ni-liih- ltesS SNch tph'i, now
ever mig"t oe d.ni.r.ttd IN similar '1 terials'
c'ricrne. nd trai and hrocad" II dark aud
sonct TINS. nnd without any SILVER or gold
TIRE DIS nn bl ok aui naroou frinres. and ihe
effect would te cl,l.nt, rich. ana subducd
enough Tor e duwacer OF nit Wintcts.
COLOR AND SHADES.
Everything depends upou toe cboico q color.
! aud shaLts IA TIE making Of cumpu~ifo COS
| tunes; psrttculslly now mat pI o. and sttires
| ami the tstIcs ~ dunHsk, uintelur~' ahd irl-
c~ded l'uuc7 are q! rye hnt We ave soon
| romc ce-ant TOILETS this week, ntog'th lita-
hlc FOR the street. upon " lrh the -lNVI-f hre d
ed praids were usco, out the col - Of such eos
| tlu a. were sNhrr SHADES - gray, while the
| nraias aua uiiid- ms ned thr solid material iu
color m tHuc. MA Us esuoriahf ti.ocd
90 81 los TO whi,e, hears 'trie silver ~lot iut"
the w7t3 OF Woo, wi.hOIi m urins IT. ID G.n'e
From ooser,s;ious made II \ Birdcttc smiths
and other uattrIn OF cuiu.- ia-' week.. 90 is evil
uent that There IL not much cnange Ina the Rrn-
crl stNle 81 u,anut dresses. Square. round.
cuirs--,s, aud .,k'fs are -till thc p.rt.ar gar
meuts mo 40 nn- and oytr+l irfs arc DIR Nn
closer around the hip- than ever. Thin women
Will lnok Ike bean poles DIR ped with rilh-. Vri-
vets, c'mcis mar, and other iaht's, and fat
| ones Hill lock rt'uter than ever. fnlrrfug- uDd
! hili pioaiings. puns ard rnles sro used T. break
the severe outlines Of THIS cl' sc-cIurins drd
ton T. worn by ultra f'lshiOuahles. Pulls, hp.f-
iants, Bug ran leafs bows aud sash,s are .l
siiNrnrd with miillhet ni Nl-ga,. e. take tho
place ~ the hustle. Immcns' quantities OF
iiiau braid, BON Wlee and narrow, ore use fol
I imn'n- an kinds q Z fments' but particularly
/ for WHAT'S tor the street.
.Jhc.S are Of VAR us kinds, but the large cir
Gle CLOAK. With rtiutfd mood ia the h.'H. bids
IT, To- te the most t,-hlonahlr. SUI sacpues of
NaiiuLs Shapes, cHGln H., tnantili . aud found
c4pcs Wil an Ice worn. The f,N rite mttCrifls
Tor such 9 rmcnia are beaver ana ch.urulila
! cloth, and tneS are literally covered with via"
AMI narrow Titan ,raid. The utmost taste .nd
iuge.lult. are di-p aNCd IN the sty ie Of putting
On ia 81 braids. ihcy arc nut uniy graduated,
! hut are thrown into various mbinaiions, geo
metric forms and slirlldCsigne - great brautV.
IheN a $50 ere seen Oh II lih. velvet aud cicilituue
! silk wraps. lrll-t-, feather trimmings, ana q
new vol push trimming called bytue Inventor
caterpillar rU'niug, appear ou s.fucAts II al
Kinds. but particularly on wraps, miusI with
brails and gnioons. III" ldrte Circle
The hand. one-t Of these circle clodhs are
m dc Of Sinlenne SIN. ana arr fur-ine d, the
Inning showing ltile heiond the edge all
around. Wien not lined with fdr they afc given
red, blue, or some rich colorcd or hgurei al
flannel Of "a tine aud heavy lality. The dol
man. too, II stiil tavuri;e s;lcrt covering, au I
many of the -aCques are given large, loose ORR
ent i nd Hungarian sleeves, which make them
, look Ike dulmuns.
1hc most fisuionahle drossmakers always add
an outer garment go every costume which they
prepare. This, whether II j. sacquc, ok :.
cape, or dulman, h always made ol the same
material, aud trimmed to correspond with u
sut The st} lc of dress for this winter ia fact
requires mat the hat or outer wrap should corr g.
suoud with the costume. To he very fashion,
able viii, therefore be as costly ever OF more so
BoNNErs AND HATS
are one and the something this season that h
, to say, the things which mililuct- call huNuCt-
are, essentially, hats 4; but "a few IL Il Eugllst
walking hats aud DerDVs are seen Ihe Rouse-
by, win III depressed front aud upturned hriu
IN tue back, bids fair to dlslace INC old fayur
he. All the shapes are large, both IN the crown
, aud brm. Felt h the leading material; velvet
/ and plush are used mostly ~ trimmings, very few
- hats or bonnets being made entirely Of thest
| materials. The Ruusehy and the DetOy are moi
worn for full dress. All the Paris trimmed ful
dress hats have wide hrnls, when arc loupct
and douressed an iIout AZ the SIDE IN the back
or in any style that suits the fancy OF the mlllncr
They are intcndCd t. be worn FAR back on th'
c | head, and this determines ia n measure the ar
4 | enjoyment OF tho INNINGS. Feathers OF a
. | kinds, piuines, MiugH, ana whole bras are used
! N the greatest pruiusiOn on them. As many a.