The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1875-04-03
SPRING FASHIONS.
The Semi-Annual Display Of
the ModisteS.
Latest Styles and Materials What a Few
Days Of Sunshine Brought Forth.


mer Bue the reprehensible conduct Of winter
lingering in the lap OF spring compelled the
modiste and her customer to defer discussion
this all important subject until the representative
Moral month, sunny April. Now that the winter
OF our dscontenJ Is at last over aud Broadway is
no longer a Slough or Despond, the freshest OF
spring raiment adorns the legion OF fair prone
naders tempted forth 10y delicious sunshine and
hamy breezes. The loves or oonnets which were
recently within the shrines devoted TO the art and
science or millinery "a more aostruse study, rest
assured than even the search after the mythi-
cal elixir Of lile), have made their debut
on Broadway, grazing the tresscs or blonde
and brunette, and resting upon fair heads like
many hued tropical birds upon the var1egated foli-
age Of the sunny South Here IS crowd or Ewes
daughters emerging from a matinee, and a con-
fused but charming chlrp OF tongues discussing
every subject that the human mind is at present
capable OF, from the Canal Ring to the last sweet
little novelty in bonnets, from the Beecher trial TO
the most recent event In hyneneal circles April
Is described by the poets 10 be 'half smile. halr
tear,n although far we have been basking in the
sunshine OF the former. Certainly she appears TO
advantage on the ever busy thoroughiares where
Dame Fashion lays snares Tor The pocket
book or pateriamlias. The bright eye,
with lis merry, mischievous glance, hair
repelant half inviting, amid that bewider-
ing labyrinth or silk, lace. velvet, Mowers,
plumes &C., through which the napless mas
culine promenader has TO steer a tortuous way
(ouen proving an fgnts Jatuus to said mas
cunne) the dancing curls or deity woven BRAID
the flushed cheek, not always the work OF ART
alone; the elastic, spring. step. and the general
rejuvenate ted air OF the lair ones, Indications,
sure and iGdlsputable, OF the advent OF spring.
They form picture sEetched by nature. ana all
the modiste can do is to frame IL appropriately.
Now, when the very
FLOWERS OF THE FIELD,
rdnn and "A q xu Mir
alter their long, forced secuslon with harsh win
ter their jailer. and trembling with anxiety
about their spring toilets and colors, and Il
rivary exists as 10 which will drst greet the sun
great critic OF the noral kingdom-whu presldes
at the spring opening OF natures lovelest chill
dren, IL Denooves the sisters OF the field beles-the
fair seX-to ascertain what is proper 10 wear Tor
the next half dozen months. There no use
in attempting 10 solve the problem beneath cloudy
skies and to encounter oceans of slush and mud
and heaps OF snow, when the modes determined
upon a lew weeks ago might be changed or modi-
lied before the purchaser had chance 10 wear
them. The persistent reluctance oil winter 70 re-
llnqulsh his sceptre 10 the youngest daughter OF
year. and the philosophical indifference to their
duties shown by the pests OF the metropolis the
Street Cleaning Commls si0ners have had disas-
trous effect upon those establishments which
make the adornment OF the female form a special
business. bonnet that, month ago, wou a
have been considered by any female Jury without
leaving their seats, acquitted OF aught deroga-
tory to taste or elegance, Is now condemned, be.
time. Houses winch announced In the usual
fashions from Paris are now at work remodeIIsnr
what, month ago, was new, out, alas! now Il
old fashioned. such Is fashion. and so eyanescent
Although American women are proverbially
l gifted with taste and refinement, yet they have
been Tor years past
DEVOTED SLAVES TO THE DICTATES or FASHION.
as represented oy foreign modistes. Tney have
emanc1pated themselves at last, and such an
amendment TO the constitution OF fashion must be
4 hailed with dehgut the old theory OF opening
nay, March 81, when was supposed TO be as fixed
ana lrrevocaole as the laws OF the Modes ana PER-
\ sans mas been also broken ~ the hardness OF the
season. But now, since old Probabilities has con-
sented 10 be good numored, not only are spring
toilets TO be seen IN all their loneliness but there
\ are dainty summer raiment on exhibition. hints
soplng lawns, croquet parties. sly firtations IN
4 the PARK, moonlight rhapsodies 70 too wiling
Il ears, seashore ramoies ana mountain wanderings.
ALI fresh attempts at novelties IN costumes are
\ eagerly adopted SO long as they are pretty ele.
CANT and becoming; yet the difference in the
present styles from those OF last season IS rather
\ in quality than in kind. The fashions may be said
10 De 'Inuiylduallzedp rather than chs nged A
lady now prefers her costume arranged Sd nlo1e
rather than strictly Ia mode. Hence, while we
still have the 'cuirass" proper used for both
house and street wear, the various notifications
IT. TO suit individual tastes and necessIIes are
almost inhumeraoe. one stye, perhaps the
slightly pointed back and 'front.' and mas a narrow
"Frenchn back, without side forms, and is TO DO
fastened In tue back rms style Is youthful.
has a PLAIN, round ''curassn front. but
the back has very hign side FORMS and Is
let IN lew inches below the waist llue disposed
IN a novel manner, so as to give pointed effect.
clined 10 eHiboapOint Tue ''Cordeiar might be
selected Tor the same reason, as 10 mas the .cu-
rass' 'front.', slightly pointed, aud the back has
double side forms, the second ones carried up TO
the shoulder seams. THIS IS a iavoritc cut Tor all
fitted garments this season, as u imparts the
slender, long wasted effect which Is at present
demanded. Another illustrates OF the same idea
IS tue 'solinep basque, when IS deeply pointed
IN front aud has a modified Marguerite back,
with single side forms carried up 10 tine shoulders
Any OF the above eau be used either Tor costumes
or toilets, tue trimming being varied to SUIT the
n
diyidual style OF collar. or reyers and sleeve.
VERY STYLISH BASoUES
TO be worn for evening toilets are the "Lueila'
aud the Armour tue former arranged with
sashes ana tue latter very long aud pointed in
front, reaching almost as low as a polonaise, but
very short aud pointed In the back and having
double sioe forms.
preference over Oyersklrts aud tue designs are al
most numerous as the persons to wear them.
trimmings are designed TO give a PLAIN effect in
front and al the stoes, aud some, out not all, are
bOtygdHt AZ the back. the princess train Is es-
pecIAlly desirable, being novel In cut and es-
pecIally graceful; snlrred side piece also forms
an OversSirt aud IL has a nounce which Stimulates
"bulgaren plat. Inc VERONICA Is also new
cut, but different from the Princess and for
some purposes preeraole, not being quite 50 mar
It has side trimmings OF stirring, with
the 'front.' trimmed en- tdolier. For costumes over
The simple ''taDlisr.r fastened win a sash az the
back or succession Of bows, may be said 70 be a
leading style. Sometimes these are draped
either with plats or shirrings at the back others
hang perfectly PLAIN and nat, and the 'Atnaliap rs
a tdbier, shirred so as 10 form puns, and is IN
isned win a cascade OF plalts and SASH at the
back. The "Eorteusen has a drapeu apron reaca-
ing quite 70 the edge u the skirt, trimmed 70
ulate three aprons. aud the back mas broad sasnes,
crossed 80 as 70 slightly O0td9dnG
OvERsKfHrS,
irregular Ia design, are preferred for dressY
costumes, anu are very dlSttBgue. Inc ANA
rantn" IS in this style the 'front.' falling PLAIN aud
pOnte1 az the lett SIDE, and the back cut square,
but draped so as TO form a point the Middle OF
Of tue back. The ''Fayorltan Is gracefully draped
ana quite iu at the back, and Is open All the way
up on the right size. Tue 'Albanir ~ simpler aud
represents deep, double apron, with full and
graceful lo0pings at tue back.
notwithstanding the decided preference for
oyerskirts ana hasques, polonalsea stll retain
their vogue, and Tor some materials nothing mas
yet been designed That can superscde them.
basque effect appears on most OF them, and fire.
quenty tue design Oi the SKIRT differs at tue sides.
The "liesperlan Is very long, with 'culrass'i at
the gfdp4 and hack and the fasteninu At the