New-York tribune., 1875-10-09
THE BLACK FOREST.


AVOID.
trEoN TIE REGULAR CORRESPONDENT or THE rRIhUNEl
ENGE1BURG, Switzerland, Sept l3-Ihe man
Uho in these days give any trustworthy
answer TO either of these questions Is I'NFiy
entitled 10 consider himself as beheiacloi o n''-
kind. / can remember the day when, as regiius INC
English world at least and suppose II was ii"ch
the same on the Western side ot the h'tlc ui'0i'
.Ii,b ,o ,sed to consider the vast Atlantic ocean,
trip TO the Continent was, with the sfeA'
nj very veltodo families thing TO he done once IN
amau's life; celebration Of hs h'heyi" P,V"-
,bv How immense has the change oeeh III Iils
-.,sooct ar,ong 30 many Others. We now alive al
-. of ths AurIo-Saxou race-become nomads
90 .,D as tho fagstoncs of Our cities hegin To gro"
rnleasantlv hot NdribUs G'l"e q"Gd7GtS P'''oH"s
hen, rir,r,l" And despite the 'neeF nave quo'eo
f,or Horace ! think that for the most part we sue
o,,l ,crv tolcgabfy. What would life be to many OF
- ,,itbout the August and September holiday
"ryp. of the wise says Wordsworth speaking Oh
the sky lark
q. qrpe Of the wise who soar hnt never roam; ~
If1ie 10 the kindred points of heaven ana holne''
Very pretty poetry! Though II struck lie al Berne'
the other day that it might be said with equal ap-
,,r,,ratcncss of the bear who climbs the pole set IN
the middle of his pit. But it Is all boSh. Roaming
has become a necessary portion of the hte and the
education If the wise well AZ OF the rest OF u.s.
And il s a very important thing to great numbers Of
Ne N he told "what 10 do and what avoid" III tins
matter.
switzerland continues to be the playground of
Europe and Judging by the numbers OF Amer-
cans one meets there-fully equal TO that OF
the Fnelish-it is no less the playground
of America. But for all that, Switzerland
Is complaining piteOusy that she is deserted
She has built monster hotels by the score
and people do not come in numbers sufficient TO
make them nav The holiday-makers Indicated a
propensity 10 climb her mountain tops, and to
declare no air pure and cold enough that was not at
least 5000 feet above the sea!' And at once
every specially commanding or beautiful mountain
ton has been crowned with a vast hotel, capable of
making up two or three hundred beds" And
Switzerland begins to find that she has made mp too
many beds. She has pped 10 Us and we viii not
dance AT least not in sufficient numbers And yet
n visitor in july August. OF September would i'm
agine that all the travelling world had given itself
q rendezvous there. Bat in truth, vast as
Is the demand. the supply has somewhat
outrun il. And there Is another cause
that operates in the same direction The
continually increasing facilities Of locomou"n nave
brought competing districts into the tourist market
TvroL Upper Bavaria. the Salzkammergut the
Italian lakes all az familiar ground as Che Bcr
uese Oberland. Nay, Norway is as easily accessible
~ the Swiss Forest Cantons used to be. And Cooke
that mighty master of what used to be called the
Grand Tour" who undertakes to make the rough
rlaces of travel smooth TO the veTcst COckuey who
never trod ANYTHING rougher fresher than the
flags of Piccadilly Broadway viii sell you ticket
for Jerusalem including admission to the Holy
SepaIcher and backsheesh TO the Bedouins, and l
Couht not has coupons good for a drink Of mare
milk under the tent of Arab chief IN the desert
The untutorcd mind of the un-Cooked Tav-
nFff
NJ five francs 10 the chief. The mares milk
roupon costs but two. Fox the great travel con-
tractor having contracted for the entire produce
of SIX mares gives the chief only one franc fifty for
each recpicnt OF Arab hospitality. l fancy special
coupons at a considerably higher figure are pro-
vided for aa attack by hostile 5edouius and ther
due repuse by the tribe Of the friendly chief.
Should add that Mr.. Cooke would be happy 90 con-
duct personally any party TO the sources OF the Nile
an afraid you might consider the announcement as
nn advertisements.
All these things have 10 certain extent injured
the "old original" playground of Switzerland.
Nevertheless for pilgrims who like Ito boil ther
reasn il NAV be doubted whether any part OF the
sarhs surface offers much TO make Summer or
Autumn holiday enjoyable. If you are surfcited
with comfort and want the pleasant excitement of
bad food detestable wine, and execrabc beds, why
FIAT is another matter. l did when l was very
vouug and vcrdant. Now, though as much pilgrim
ss ever. ike to have my peas boiled for me. And
In no country in the world is this done as IL Is IN
Switzerland.
This Autumn I have been tempted TO try the
claims of n district which has quite recently been
ouotcdo in the tourist market, and which presents
itself as q rival 70 its neighbOr Swi;zerland-tie
Black Forest 1t used TO be a very primitive and se-
rluded REGION Railways have penetrated 1t, and 1t
is such no longer It's name has been worth an i'm
mense deal 10 it. THE BLACK FOREsT. What is
tolerably well educated imagination not capable OF
doing with such name as that 1t is not forest,
and not black but thickly inhabited region and
very green Ii il not filed with huntsmen carrying
hures and charcoal-burners who turn out 70 be
bandits a. il ought be- but does large trade in
clocks and is in fact peopled by coekInakers, who'
whatever they may have been ten years ago. are now
very perfectly up To the time OF day" IL Is IN
denably a very pretty region, consisting ell
tirey Of a vast labyrinth OF narrow, winding,
,ichly-wooded valleys with little industrial
wherever three or four valleys meet ana the
ruins of an old baronial castle all the more prom
nent nights; not district, however, toi painter
because il is too entirely and too uniformly green.
Now in this district there are a great numbeT-qmte
An astonishingly large number-of those baths
which are such necessity of life to the Germans.
You may count Bad this and " Bad that on the
map till you have found dozen more, and all
within region Of some twelve miles square. A
numerous group OF these little bads" are known col
leeyely as the Knibis baths being all of them sit
uated in the valleys which run down from the range
Of hills so named The springs of these various esab-
shnents are all of course extremely salutary, and
the local physicians show considerable ingenuity in
their cffc0ts. For the nOn-medlcal