The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1875-06-03
Pleated Basque, Hith Deep, Round
0IarSkirf.

The pleated basque is not tight-6t-
ting garment with darts and side-forms,
but is fitted, like blouse, merely by q
seam under each arm. 1t Is, in fact, the
stylish modification of the side pleated
waists worn last summer, and is called
basque simply because it is made long
enough to cover the hips. Instead of
covering the whole waist with pleats, as
was formerly the fashion, this new pleat-
ed basque has but six pleats in front and
six in the back, leaving the shoulder
seams plain, and allowing the part under
the arms to fit smoothly without the
clumsy fullness made by the old pattern.
The pleats are laid deeply, and begin in
the neck of the garment extending
straight down to the end of the basque
there are three pleats in each back and
front turned toward the middle. The
back has no visible seam if the fabric is
narrow it should be pieced under q
pleat SO that the seam will be hidden.
In washing goods the pleats are sewed
neatly, but in silk, debege or grena-
dine they are merely pressed, or at
most basted. There is no tight lining
to this blouse-basque, as it is to be
worn over smoothly-ftted corset
cover. Sometimes, however, it is neces-
sary TO lie the entire garment, making
it double; grenadine is lined with thin
silk. and silk is lined with thinner silk
or with paper-muslin. A shirred case for
drawing strings is put in the back of the
garment, and this is concealed by the
belt which is always worn with the
basque. The basque part is six or eight
inches below the belt, and is usually I'm
4 ich Ixya nil or no, I1v,.
who wish to add more dressy finish put
a knife pleating on the edge like that on
the upper skirt; the latter plan is very
pretty for greDadine and for lawns. The
neck has the stylish Byron collar, but
many such garments have a standing
pleated frill around the neck, while
others have the fiaring Medicis collar, OF
else the English collar with points turned
over in front. The shoulder seams must
be very short, and the coat sleeves are
fitted almost tight to the arm. A pleat-
ing turned toward the hand trims the
wrist, and ON this bow of ribbon is set,
or else sort of bracelet or ribbon is
passed around the arm and tied there in
a small bow.
The deep, round overskirt is not new,
but retains its popularity despite the in
L
with very deep yet slender apron, is
drawn far back on the sides, and very
bouffantly draped. BY way of variety,
the fullness on the sides may be taken
up in shirring instead of in pleats. This
is done by half a dozen rows of shirring
in single cluster straight down the
sides.
Ladies use the patterns of this suit for
making overdresses to be worn with the
black silk skirts that now form part of
every wardrobe. Thus for the present
season the pleated basque and oYerskirt
are make of shepherds plaid-black and
white woodland worn over a black silk
skirt, or it may be over blue or plum
colored silk; or else the overdress is of
summer silk of the small pin-head checks
OF black and white, or perhaps of the in
expensive striped silks. This is also a
popular design for making gray or brown
camePs hair of invisible plaids. De-
beges of quiet colors are made in this
way, trimmed with knife pleatings and
worn over brown, black or gray silk
skirts. For midsummer the pretty linen
lawns that are now imported in stripes,
bars and dots of color on white or on
ecru grounds will be made by this
basque and overskirt pattern with self
trimmings, or perhaps lodged with en-
broidery. These cool and inexpensive
fabrics cost from twenty-eight cents to
forty cents yard, wash well, and are
very durable. Plain canvas grenadines
| are rather paSsee since the introduction
of plaids and stripes, but are still liked
for service and cheapness
For the calico dresses, that form an
important part of the outfit of housewives
and of school girls, there is no prettier
model than that now illustrated. If the
overskirt is thought too dressy, it can be
omitted, and the house dress will be COM
rlete with merely the basque and lower
skirt, trimmed with gathered or pleated
ruftie.-Ha1Der's Bazar.