Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1875-06-09
The Latest Fashions.
A NEW GARMENT.

forms, but Is fitted like blouse merely
by seam under each arm. It is, in
fact, the stylish modification of the side
plated waists worn last summer, and is
called basque simply because it is
made long enough to cover the hips.
Instead of covering the whole waist with
plaits, as was formerly the fashion, this
new plated basque has but six plaits in
the back, leaving the shoulder seams
plain, and allowing the part under the
arms to fit smoothly without that
clumsy fulness made by the old pat
tern. The plaits are laid deeply, and
begin in the neck of the garment
extending straight down to the end Of
the basque; there are three plaits in
each back and front turned toward the
middle. The back has no visible seam !:
if the fabric is narrow. it should be
pierced under plat SO that the seam
will be hidden. In washing goods the
plaits are sewed neatly, but in silk, de
bege, or grenadine they are merely
pressed, or at most basted. There is no
tight lining to this blouse basque as tits
to be worn over smoothly fitted corset
cover. Sometimes, however, it is nee
essary to line the entire garment, max
ing it double; thus grenadine is lined
with thin silk, and silk is lined with
thinner silk Or with paper muslin. A
shirred case for drawir g-strings is put
III the back of the garment, and this is
connected by the belt which
is always worn with the basque. The
basque part is six or eight inches below
the belt, and is usually finished by a
piping or hem: but those who wish to
add more dressy finish put a knit
pleating on the edge like that on the
upper skirt; the latter is very pretty for
grenadine and for lawns. The neck has
the stylish Byron collar, but many such
garments have standing pleated frill
around the neck, while others have the
flaring Medicis collar, or else the Eng
llsh collar with points turned over in
front. The shoulder seams must be
very short, and the coat sleeves are
fitted almost tight to the arm. A plait-
ing turned toward the hand trims the
wrist, and on this a bow of ribbon is
set, or else sort of bracelet of ribbon
is passed around the arm and tied there
in small bow.
The deep round over-skirt is otnew
but retains its popularity despite the in
PRODUCTION Of novelties It is now made
with very deep yet slender apron, is
drawn far back ON the sides, and very
bouffantly draped. By way of variety,
the fullness on the sides may be taken
up in shirring instead of in plaits This
is done by half dozen rows of shirring
in single cluster down the sides.
The short walking skirt is given with
this suit in order that it may serve for
the street, the garden, and for morning
strolls in the country, where it is indis-
pensable. Indeed, there is marked
change in this regard, as skirts of street
suits are not now allowed to drag on
the sidewalk, but are short enough to
escape the ground, leaving the boot
free in It's dainty neatness.
Ladies use the patterns of this suit
for making over dresses to be worn
with the black silk skirts that now form
part of every wardrobe. Thus for the
gresent season the plated basque and
over-skirt are made of shepherds plaid
black and white woodland worn over
black silk skirt, or it may be over blue
or plum colored silk; or else the over
dress is Of summer silk of the small
pin-head checks of black and white, or,
yerhaps, of the inexpensive striped
silks. This is also popular design for
making gray or brown camePs hair of
invisible plaids. De beges of quiet
colors are made in this way, trimmed
with knife plating, and worn over
brown, black, or gray silk skirts. For
midsummer the pretty finer lawns that
are now imported in stripes,
bars, and dots of color on white
Or on ecru grounds will be made
by this basque and over-skirt pat
tern, with self trimming, or perhaps
ekged embroidery. These cool and in
expensive fabrics cost from % cents to
40 cents yard, wash we'll, and are very
durable. Plain canvas grenadines are
rather pdssee since the introduction of
plalds and stripes, but are still liked for
service and cheapness. This caodel vii
be used for such grenadines, trimmed
with crimped fringe, lace and knife
plaitlngs, to be wore over black silk
skirts, III which are knife-plaited founces
of grenadines. The fashion of wearing
white plated basques with colored
skirts is also too convenient and too
comfortable to be abandoned. but should
be confined to the house. The BASQUE
should be Of linen, Or of ecru batiste,
without trimming, unless the merest
edging Of open work English en-
broidery be added. An outer garment
| for the street is now thought necessary
with suits, and this plated basque of
muslin or linen will be used as che
mise Russe under the sacque or mantle
which forms part of the costume.
INEXPENSIVE SUITS.
The furnishing houses are Offering
plain suits of summer wool goods of
light quality for $12. They are made
with the usual three pieces-basque,
deep over-skirt, and walking-skirt and
are trimmed with bias rules These are
shown in clear gray shades, and in pin
head checks Of brown or gray with
white. Suits of black cashmere of light
quality are now sold for the prices those
made of alpaca formerly cost; for in
stance, those trimmed with plaitings of