Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-11-01

| tmoroiueren; grenadlhe, plain and embroid-
| cred; lace, plain and worked; beautiful Melted
friuges; gold and silver gimps. and galloons
tulle, tariatan, flowers In graceful trails aud
voluntarily 10 PLUCK them The sIeeyef an, az
| usually OF the came material rs the over
skirt; If that is thin they are shirred and
than ever, the back OF the train forming a
! fan. which is held in place perfectly by this
means The overskirt may be straight or
rounded in form, but they are long and
shirred upon the sides, and always drsped at
the back; Sashes are not required, and are
Lot al all SO general aSlast year.
| There are also some beautiful and elabo-
| rate dresses for matrons made entirely with
out overs kirts, sometimes a On PriftceSSe and
trimmed with broad braid and gimps ami
| pass amepterfes; others with trimmed skirts
and basques, and for these last lace of every
description IL utilized.
For the first naturally rich fabrics are Sc
| Iecied-beayy silks, NelVets. brocaded silks,
ard silk and velvet. The latter fabrics are
! more used as parts of costumes than for com
! plete tollettes.
! For the second class less EXPENSIVE GailleS
are employed, the fronts puffed or trimmed
WIN lace me train laid In huge plest, or
! which are kept In position by strings tiei
back from the sides underneath.
| Nearly all dresses OF ceremony are made
/ with TWO bOdices, one high. the other a low
! square, and many of the high ones are trim
med very low square, and some are hlleI
! IN with contrasting color aud material, the
same being used for the sleeves aud for the
lining of the bows or other Trimmings upon
| the SKIRT.
Toilets for very young ladies' who
1 society are not elaborate. They
/ are OF white tulle, or tarlatane the skirt
| pulled or fiounced under tuuic Ia Greclue
or a Ia d1fbFte lit is known by both names)
| the top of which In front is arranged i'm a
| tries of hollow pleats. bound with white
SILK or satin. The sides are drapei and gar
landed with trails OF Jardinire roses, red aud
white carnations, or forget me- notS mingled
with lily of the valley. A novel fancy is 20
festoon the dress at the back with deep,
| double bands of gold ribbon half an inch la
| width SO that falls low upon the tunic
SasheS are not worn with these dresses buf
a close gold ribbon belt is claspei 10 the waist
or a silver-libk Jeanne Dare belt fails
low upon one side, the fan being uSpendel
| fIOnl IL.
Feather trimmings are in very great re
guest for rich soft silks and combination
costumes OF silk aud velvet The newest aud
prettiest are the grey aud brown of the Eng
lish starting, sprinlled with white, very
small ostrich tips and guinea hen feathers
The more brilliant tints OF the peacock and
The prs matte hues OF the tropical birds are
considered less desirable.
BRIDES WEAR.
The number OF weddings recently has been
matter OF social comment, aud so a lso have
the hearty and strict elegance OF the Cos
TUNES. Quite reaction has taKen place in
the style of brides dresses much ore cost
ly material being used than formerly. ana
considerably less trimming. White brocafed
SILKS are In great demand, and soft satin fin
isbed failles, which, il they were as stig a.
they are thick, would stand alone.v A ne
cullar quality of this silk is called brides
satln,' Ia is OF the purest texture, and costs
ten dollars per yard. The superiority OF this
can be imagined when il il stated that the
richest pale cream tinted failles of the pres
ent Sc ason can be obtained for four dollars
per yard. Only one house has It. Lace is
not used with these fabrics; IL would be A sin
lnueed 10 mar or cover them. Tulle alone is
permitted for the veil and FOR fine plaitings
a: the neck and wrists Lace may be aided
TO this at these points, but il must be of ex-
quis1te nneness and choice in kind The
robes themselves are cut close ami ma ie I'm
an exceedingly simple style, without pun.
ing, houncing or overskirt. The ornaments
are voluminous, trails OF white lilac, only
slightly intertwlned with orange blossoms
ARTISTIC FURNISHING
1t is to the enormous Incl ga Sc Of European
travel hat. doubt less, muca of the recently
developed mania for bric-a- brac and objects
of art and yertu is due. Few have the good
taste or the sound knowledge which enables
them To couhne themselves to what is really
OF value In preserving the lines which con-
meet us with the worlds of the past in art
and the majority simply succeed in collect
ing quantity of rubbish, the most OF which
they gladly, AFTER time, put out OF sight
There is one beautiful relic of the past how
ever, which fashion has revived, and which
may low be seen more or less in every par
Tor and drawing room OF any pretension To
luxury and cultivated taste. They are placed
upon easels; they are hung fiat TO the wall
by the side OF the fire place; they are
placed upon cabinet. and occupy the
The most effective, speaking from a purely
superficial and not from an artistic point OF
view, are the silver figures in relief upon a
ground of black enamel framed in a narrow
brim OF silver. The kmanship, of course.
is exquisite, the grouping as fine as the most
delicate work IN marble. The painted
panels, on gray, dark blue and black back
grounds, are preferred by some, and will un-
doubleday become more popular, because
they are less costly, and afford an opportu-
nifty to our women artists, some OF whom
have SncroQdQd in rnpying NJ
imported ones with great truthfulness, and
also OF making some successful studies OF
such as lilies. daisies and Others. are n'n most
effective, but ferns and some delicate flower
ing vines may also be used 10 much advau-
tage. Groups and bouquets of mixed flowers
are reserved for small square panels.
wHAT-Nors.
The variety OF small articles for ornameu-
tai use Is endless. AID foremost among them
are the pretty trifies for the throat, the
twilled silk handkerchiefs with colored bor-
ders, which have largely taken the place OF
colored scarfs; the pretty leaf like ends Of
tinted silk or crepe de cie1ae trimmed with OLD
| lace and mounted with a compact bow: and.
newest OF all, the barbes and trimmings OF
uBbleached lace, Imitation point and fine
yak, which are used with all the effect at a
short disfancel OF rare Old lace or Irish gui-
pure Limitation" point is quite a novelty,
and the best imitation of anything which
has been seen in a long time. Ii makes really
beautiful tarbes and collarettes, has the un-
deniable coffee tinge, and is stylish J used as
border 10 the neckerchiers OF unoleached
silk.
The fancy ornaments and pockets attached
To the belt are as numerous as ever, but have
somewhat changed their character. The
pockets are more like purses, with steel or
silver clasps, and the attachments consist at
pleasure OF a tiny mirror in silver frame,
OF scent bottle of silver or pearl. a set of
tablets, a fan, watch, or any or all OF these.
The linked or Jeanne GArc belts are no
longer confined to silver. They are made in
jet, i'm shell, and in English topaz. and
through these, instead OF the black velvet
which is put through silver, black silk 10
match the dress or jet is employed, and
faflle ribbons OF the proper width matching
the brown tint of dress for shell or TOPAZ JET
belts are suitable for gray as well as black,
though jet trimmings are no longer used, ex-
cept by those who wish tO utilize what they
have got in the way of dress for secondary
occasions. Narrow standing collars are still
the favorites for street wear, the small points
turned down over the checked or small Grim
son silk crsvats. Soft lace or lisse or tulle
rufhes are placed inside the drosa for dinner
and evening wear, when full dress is not re-
quired. =
Hosiery for evenin0 MAR is Of sflb v,atct-