Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1875-05-03


Trimmed with these plaitings. They are tied
slightly back with strings under the back
breadth, which is either arranged in a broad
piait or inside lengthwise puffs, and both the
length and the fullness are thus masset so
that II can be taken up In the hand when
WALL ing, by bending baekv ard, and then in
| Strengthening up the dress is lifted up out of
the dust and mire of the streets.
TABLIFR AND JACKETS.
The aprons and jackets for day and even
ing wear are In great variety. The prett est
| are of valencielnes lace and insertion. or of
yalenciennes lace and ribbon striped. Charm
ing ones are OF black lace, hair striped with
| JET; but probably the most numerous ard
| popular ones will be composed of cream COL
ored and ecTU guipure lace and open embroid-
| cry bordeTed TO match.
| The method Of wearing them is very sim
| pie They are merely hooped at the back
and numerous loops and ends OF ribbon at
.ach.a TO form the sash. Lawn dresses are
prettily made with apron and side-pleatad
french waists with loops and ends OF ribbon
MORNING DRESSES
Except the white linens and percales
| trimmed with open and French embroidery,
| there are no pretty morning dresses, all are
prints are fussy and without any redeeminp
| quality. They look like the contents OF an
| old clothes shop. The more elegant ones are
made OF plain black or gray silks, and show
lily trimmed with bands Of blue or black silk
The delicate linen lawns, the plain buh. pink
and blue chambreys, neatly made and pref
| lilly relieved with lace or needlework, which
| were employed for morning wear a few years
ago, have disappeared, or are appropriated
| by quiet women who make them up in the
| precincts of their own homes, and have the
satisfaction of getting what they want at
very small expense.
The new Madras cOttOns uSel for morning
dresses are in great demand because they are
rather a novelty, but the high colors, mixed
| stripes ard checks, after the fashion OF the
Madras hand keTchiefS worn by negroes. are
| excessively unbecoming to all but dark and
swarthy skinned women. SO that they will
soon lose whatever little vogue they may
obi ~ III
children, for whose seaside and country
wear they are very well adapted.
THE LATEST IN BoSNFTs.
Ronnets, OF rather hats, have resolved
themselves into three STYLES, the black chip,
the white chip, and the PanquOl. They are
all large, and partake OF the Iiubens shape.
with upward brlm. which is lined and facai
with flowers or feathers, in order 10 occupy
The space and prevent the bold. staring ap-
rearance which they would otherwise pos
sess. When hats first made their appearance.
there was much complaining on the part OF
elderly ladies' of the want of suitable head
gear. Now they have apparently made up
their minds 10 accept the situation. for ladies
Of fifty and sixty. with white hair. bloom in
fantastic shapes, with wrinkled face, trained
in lilies Of the valley and primroSeS, with as
airy grace a if the sun of summer instead
81 the frost Of winter rested upon their lied
locks.
The dress hats or bonneis. as stated in my
last. are of the fine white dress chip so fash
ionable dozen years ago. and the only
"dress" bonnet ever acknowledged except
the Leghorn. They are imported, as proba-
bly, the reader is aware, in large round sheets
and cut up in various shapes and forms by
the milliner. Some are turned up on the
side, with bunch of feathers, a scarf OF
damask silk twisted round the crown, and a
boquet of flowers placed under the brim;
others have a cap crown of the new damask
brOcade, with brim and curtain of chips.
Buckles of gold and silver filagree are used
with this damask silk with very good effect.
a very handsome black chip is trimmed
with pale drab damask scarf twisted round
the crown, and with three ostrich feathers
curled over the edge of the brim az the back.
Under the brim IS a wreath made OF small
drab ostrich tips. and on one side bunch of
drab and crimson roses. Soft, checked,
twilled scarfs are in high vogue for trim
ming hats for travelling and neSlige, and
with these bright wing is often set straight
up from the back. while a group OF roses OF
different cOlOrS faStenS up the brim at the
side. But the Panama, introduced and con-
trOlled by A. T. Stewart & CO.. is the newest
II not the most popular hat of the season.
The ivory tint OF the fabric is in accordance
with the universal demand for creamy ami
unbleached shades. 1t is light, cool. service
able can he pressed in. but not out Of shape
by any amount of rough usage, and has that
most valuable quality of all. a distinctive
character which cannot be initiated. Too
much trimming spOils these hats. They are
best trimmed simply but richly with pale
blue or unblcaChe1 white damaSk silk or soft
serge ribbon. q twist OF silk. and some pale
roses under the brim, or wreath of daisies or
white lilac, If the wearer Is young. Outside
group of ostrich feathers or a puff Of soft
silk with gold OF silver flagree buckle AT
the left side.
FASHIONABLE GLOVES.
The new gloves are purely quaker in style
Long, plain, in all shades of gray AMI brown
without stitching or ornament of any kind
Three buttons are usually adopted for street
wear, four for receptions, and six for even
ing wear. There are evening gloves, how
ever, which exhibit as many as ten buttons,
but these are exceptional. Most ladies are
contented with six. Last year introduced
the quaker drabs in kid gloves, and they i'm
nfalN rrrNaH
authorities on taste and fashion. The light
shades are equally suitable for day and even
ing dress and keep clean and neat looking "A
long time with little care.
This year all the new shades belong TO the
mole famijy, Cream pearl, gray and palest
shade of drab are 'eserYed for evening or day
full dress receptions. AlmOnG, '@iaG brown,
gray and wood brown TO match all the sha 'es !!
in costumes for visiting purposes, and black /
or quaker drab for ordinary walking wear
The English Isle thread finished the same /
as Kid and long upon the wrists, only 10 be !,
had in soft drab. gray, and stone colOrs are 1
already in great demand and form useful /
summer glove for those who cannot wear Kid |
in warm weather.
Summer driving gloves for gentlemen are !
very nice. They are OF English Isle threat. 4
in the usual shades, the inside made of kid (
exactly matching in color. The cOmbina-
ton renders them light, cool and desirable.
LACE AND LINGERIE.
The effort 10 re-intrOduce the stiff turn /
down collar has signally failed. Ruffs are |
very thick, fine and soft and wonderfully be- !
coming. The stand-up collar, too, with its /
turned down corners, is universal favorite !
Tor day and street wear, and will not be 1
given DIP.
Among the summer fancies are new sets of |
striped and checked linen and cambria, with /
bunch of pleats at the back OF cuffs and 1
collar, which looks well enough for occa-
sions and while they are new, but thick, 1
coiored fabrics next the skin, are never 1
really becoming, besides which the peculiar |
style of making renders il difficult to have |
them well laundered. and If badly done. of |
course look worse than the simplest little /
rim of white gotten up in good style. Ohe /
such set therefore is quite enough to be in |
possession Of
Among the gay little forerunners of the |
forthcoming centennial are the Lady Wash /
ington caps. They are very like the Char
lotte Cerday" which nave been in vogue /
long time, but the crown is a little more /
round and the pleated ruff1e does not deepen |
like the Charlotte Corday at the back. In
other respects they are precisely the same, |
and the furOre for them has grown until they /
have become the almost universal accom-
paniment of the breakfast wrapper or pretty |
morning dress. The absurd part Of it Is that