The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1875-11-09

A Frencbmsp'. TrIp In Germany.

OF credit. m ide flying tour through Germany In
the earlier portion OF the present year. During
his travels he took notes by the yside. and
on returning home published them. Seven
col Ions issued by the Paris publishing house
Of r. Dentu have been already exh ,usted.
Throughout France the book has been hailed
with cry OF triumph and consoation and
German critics have done " the honor to sneer
at it, while protesting that they noticed 1t only
because so many millions Of Frenchmen would
get from It's pages an Inaccurate idea OF the
Fatherland. As showing what the conquered
think and say when welding free pen among
the conquerors, the book Ia both amusing and
interesting. The authors opinions are avow
eddy superficial, but they are nevertheless in
srustve with regard to the upper crust Of life as
now TO he seen In Germany. They may bost be
described as a sticking Of pins into the sensitive
hide Of this new emDire. A cat may look at a
king-and the king may be worried thereby. No
POSSIBLE amount Of money, brute force, or sci
epce can render n community Of human beings
perfect at all points, without and within. and so
Iissot has some truths to tell the Germans.
Moreover, admitting the German dictum that
every frenohman Is more or less OF a fool, phi
losOphers have ever held that something can he
learned even from a fool. rissot admires the
reutouic gift OF foresight the extent Of which
In measure puzzles him. lie sees plainly
enough that whereas France has been and Is
stumbling along road running from nowhere
to nowhere, Germany has had well-denned
routes and aims since she was logged into de-
string them bv Napoleon l., and OF all nations Is
at present the one best hitched up In tho har-
ness OF discipline.
The book Is divided into two parts The
author FIRST sketches briefly his experiences In
South and Middle Germany and then concsn-
trates his attention on Berlin aud the Berlinese.
" Berlin" he says, ais both the head and heart
OF Germany, by usurpatiOn. Berlin thinks.
leads, rules. and distributes honors, Justice aud
glory In modern Deutschland, no longer the land
OF gentle ballads, Gothic dreams and plous
oathedrals, but the land OF blood and iron, can
non, grapeshot and battles" For fear OF being
overrun by the revolution, the new empire has
entered into alliance with It, and thus the
socialists are confident OF ultimate success.
Hence the entire nation Is deeply agitated and
III at ease. The Rhine is now only chain OF
fortresses reared against France; It no longer
a goal OF pleasure, for French tourists at lea st.
Meanwhile, as Germans are spying out all
France, II becomes Frenchmen to do unto
others what Others are doing unto them.
Tissot's first halt on the soil OF the Father
land Is at Ulm, which would still be nne old
medioval city ~ its antique lanterns had not
been replaced by gas aud its old sacred melo-
dies by the obscene songs OF drunken soldiers.
The cathedral Is depicted as the Gothic master
piece after that OF Cologne. The ctadol 10
visited and found more thin all right Thirty
thousand men garrison Vim and innumerable
breastworks, detached forts aud barracks en-
velop the city and m Ike It a lrst-class Federal
fortress, capable OF resisting an army OF 200 900
men, whether approaching from tho Austrian or
French side. The garrison life Is set down as
dull but, as the officers get better pay nova
days. thew are enabled TO keep mistresses,
which formerly they could not co. Recruits are
much drilled in shooting and gymnastics (;
six months are requisite to make soldiers OF
them. The various provlncas Ia the ranks
frequently Indulge In bloody SUNDAY brawls (;
but the Prus'ian corporal is ever ready, whip in
hand, like the Snowman in rie lions cage, to
quell antagonism.
StuttsArt IA his next stopping place, aud the
author nnds the capital Of wurtemb erg both gay
and pleasing. The citizens are frank and Viva
cious mucn given to ole isurs AMI good living, i
Ii Pdrtsienne; tho sovereign reigns without
bothcring himself to rule, and thus the city is
agree toe abode for foreigners. Three THOUSAND
Americans aud 1000 English dwell IN the new
quarters, The ambition OF every Wurt EN- berger
Is to keep a hotel, rest iurant, or la :er beer
saloon; the King keeps two restaurants aud a
cafe. wine and beer shop, a restaurant or inn,
any place where eating or drinking can be re-
tailed Is the nc plus ultra of fame, the only true
road to fortune In the kingdom. The warlke
yalor Of It's Inhabitants has been somewhat
dmmed Of late years, but their reputation as the
nr,t caters OF the empire remains Intact their
appetite is not only good, but frightful; they
don't eat, they enRulf. TIE champion saloon
keepers Of the world hail from Wurtem berg.
Salerkraut breastworks and sausage cannon are
the real defences of the land. Into some Of the
saloons ladies are also admitted TO sew and gos-
| sip while ENJOYING Dreaded outlets and huge
bowls OF coffee aud milk. Tue royal kitchens
and solutions across the street from the palace
are wonder. The King Is . heavy eater, likes
military reviews and court fees, but Ia content
| TO be puppet in the hands OF Bismarck. II any
local governing occurs, II IL done by his wife, the
Russian Grand Duchess Olga; he himself has
been dubbed Olgus. which plainly shows on
which leg tho boot Is. The memory OF several
| famous men Is yet green In wurtemberg; Strauss
"the rival OF Renan," however, Is already quite
| forgotten. THE German critics have been at
pains to rectify this little error Of Tissot Strauss
was the predecessor of Rsnan, aud was SO ac-
knowledged by the lstter.l The children. whe IA
at play In the streets OF slut ,rt xercise I'll
selves In various foreign languages. for their
general knowledge of which Germans are 10 be
commended. Almost all the young men and
women speak fench, English, and Italian, and
even army officers, frequently by preference,
talk NJ table among themselves in French which
is also the court lansu iee. In the royal Will
helma gardens the dancing Is of a rare order
Here, after their MaIesties Olga aud Oigus have
duly opened a ball, ladies' whir " IN inebria nc
wAltzes, their snowy bosoms visibly palpitatlng
in nests ~ laces, while princes, generals, and
starred and bedizened officers voluptuousl,
clasp their quiverinG waists" But court balls
at Stuttgart, sreported by Tissot, are OF danger
ous translation; hence il Is better to HE with
him to Frankfort. Stuttgart evidently Ia hi.
Capua and he amlably dubs 1t the SMILE a,
he calls Berlin the grin, OF Germany.
Frankfort has boen Haus Sm anlzed for the con.
venience Of PruseIan cam oneers, and the old
city OF the German Caesars will soon only exis
in photography. The picturesque Hebralc quar-
ter, from which sprang the house OF the Roths
childs, Is no more and Altogether the ancient
pointed Gothic houses have been so thorough,
renovated as to be not only jauaty but unrecog
nzable. Goethe's birth house has been con
verted into a national museum , IN which are RI
lgously exhibited all the old aummery OF hi.
moth eaten clothes and hats. Bismarck ha