Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1875-10-20
Misfellameous.
NOTES ON FALL FASHIONS.

| Of novelties in fancy jewelry, among which
are conspicuous the collars and centuries
moyen age, fashionable with the Paris.
ians and beginning to be worn here. The
former are modification in silver and OK
'idized metal of the original collar, which
was made of flat, iron links and fastened
in front with device representing hand
holding cross. The metal necklaces, or
| collars, here offered are more comely than
| the iron ones could have been, and are,
| furthermore, softened and made attrac-,
tive by bands of velvet and ribbon rup7
ming through the links. This peculiar
| adornment is designed TO be worn close
about the neck over high corsage, with
a standing lined collar. The centuries
| moyen age, or Joan of Arc belts, as they
are Oftener termed, are made after the
same fashion and Of the same substances
as the collars Just described, only the links
are larger and there are more of them,
forming wider and much longer bands.
These pass around the waist, to fasten be.
low it on the left side. where one end
hangs for the accommodation of fan,
vinaigrette or whatever article of the kind
the wearer may choose to attach. New
York modistes do not predict for either
the collars or belts very long run, but
think they will soon be put aside with
gold and silver braids and other marked
novelties for styles less conspicuous.
Chains and medallions remain popular
and come in variety Of designs. The
| cable pattern is in vogue for the chains az
is also pattern of large links, alternating
in Roman and polished gold. Stylish neck
laces in gold and tortois and jet, more or
less elaborately worked. and showing un.
| iquc designs-not seen in the loose neck
chains-are worn as close about the throat
as is consistent with comfort, and some
what after the manner Of the metal col.
lars. s1Ia
AS was predicted, felt hats are the
| mode, and will continue to be largely
worn throughout the entire winter,
| though velvet will later furnish regular
dress bonnets. Feathers, birds and wings
| remain a fayorte garnture in millinery,
flowers being rarely seen ON the felt
hats, but reserved almost entirely for vel.
vet one. on which they were associated
with lavish display of lace. This last
trimming is considered indispensable for
a full-dress hat, and assists in making
white laccs more fashionable than ever be-
fore. Valencennes, Mechlid, Point.
| Bruges, and the new Cashmere lace of a
rich creamy hue, are all employed as trim
mings for dressy toilets. In floral decora-
tions the newest arrangement is in touffes,
or clusters of soft roses, which flower by
the way. have the supremacy. According
to all probabilities the late winter bonnets
will be large, and one will see more coiff-
ures with strings tied under the chin than
last year. In ielt hats black and gray are
| The popular colors, as they can be worn
with garments of any hue. When other
colors are selected they should invariably
match the costume with which the hat will
always be worn.
Imported skirts and tabliers drape the
figures closer than ever. there being liter.
ally no fulness allowed except in the train.
| Two leading modes, the robe and the cos.
tune, furnish the basis for all fashionable
dresses. Crdcr the robe are classified
dresses III one piece--the princesse and
the polonaise being popular models.
These are made very properly with long.
er trains than the costumes, as they are
essentially house garments. The cos.
tunes, with less reason. show tendency
| to longer skirts. In all dresses, whether
for reception, evening or outdoor wear,
the waist goes down I'LL it divides the
wearer's body about equally Slimness
and tlatness characterize every costume.
Paris modis,s are discarding the pouff and
all bouilunt effects. leaving behind only
the necessary mass from tying back the
skirts. The trout of the garment receives
the greatest amodnt of trimming. Here
and at the sides, is accumulated the garni-
ture of the dress Sleeves are showing
! more trimming, especially from the hand
up as many of the cuffs are deep enough
to furnish garniture nearly or quite to the
elbow. In consequence of the plain, mar.
row skirts, outside jackets are more worn
than ever--indced Ii costume is no longer
considered complete without them. These
can, with equal propriety, be made on the
dress, or furnished in suspended anmon-
ieres of velvet. and silverplated or oxi.
died metal in fine network, beneath which
are seen satin and velvet Innings.
Collars lying quito fiat and much
trimmed or entirely formed of fine knife
plaitings and folds, furnish in large meas.
ure the trimming of the bodice, which con-
tlnues to cuirasse basque or one of its mod
iiicalions. Plaine coat sleevs, fitting close
ly about the wrist and much trimmed at
the bottom, are the stvle; the upper part
is rounded, so that when set In the arm
hole the fit resembles that Of mans cOate
lAdlSe DutlblS are seen OHiy III COmuOu
with suits, the ordinary size being the
thing Tor handsome costumes. Among
the novelties introduced are buttons OF
bronze, mother oi-pearl and tinted varie-
ties made from the inner lining of the
conche- she'll silks and handsome wool
suitings demand the bronze. while CASH
mere and other light fabrics find use for
the mother-oi-pearl in dark tints. Deli
cate she'll buttons are recommended only
for materials of light weight as well as
colors.
knite-platin9s are still favorite trim
ming. There is an inclination to present
these in the finest of plaits, in clusters,
leaving a pain space in alienation; or in
Producing instead a single box-plait, or
cluster OF Russian plaitings. A variety
of velvets coming in eolors to match the
nw;n b aut full silks will te much sed,
not only Tor portions of costumes. bu. for
bands, pipings and other trimmings. La
ces are largely used this season in the or
namentalion Of dresses, as IN other portion
of the wardrobe. Chantilly, fine guipure
Of peculiar patterns, new Spanish lace
and new cashmere lace are quoted
among the fashionable ones. Almost all