The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1875-10-19
Tho Latest Fashions.

teeth, "Vll domy duty by her as q father, The
hurried homeward. Alasl poor FlorenceI
Tho Latest Fashions.
From Harpor'S BaEarl
Al the last openings Of the season
mOdistes display the latest novelties de.
signed in the Partisan workshops, The
most conspicuous feature Of the past
week ia the marked intention to restore
the polonaise to favor, Al the besl
houses these garments were AZ frequently
presented as the Cuirass and oyer.skirt,
and modistes say that long-WaiSted polo.
naises very slightly draped will be the
most distinguished over.dresses Of the
winter for rich costumes Of velvet, DANE
ask, fSh.scale brocade, cancels hair and
Sicilienne. Some Of these are like long
redingotes, and are labelled princesse
over-dresSes. They are made with the
straight princesse front falling open
about the knee, or else buttoned Its entire
length, and showing three rows Of small
buttons. The back Is the lOng.waiSted
Marguerite shape, with many long seams
ending in a square basque, or else going
into the skirt, with bows at the end Of
the seams. In some cases the back Of
the polonaise forms square train that
may be looped or left lowing at will,
while In others the back Is merely half
long basque, like that Of a demi'polo'
naise.
The most graceful design yet imported
for the prinCesse dress 10 called the Hor!
tense robe. II Is made in Gabrielle shape,
with skirt and waist In one, but la plain.
ness isrelieved by scarf sash draped be-
low the hips, by basque back and fchu.
An elegant model Ia oil seal brown brocade
lin the small scale.llke design now in
vogue) combined with plain brown gros
grain. The long dress ID Of the brocade,
and the edge Of the skirt has pyramids Of
silk knife plating let In each seam near
the foot The sleeves are silk, with
knife plaitings. The fchu Ia offolded silk,
and the wide scarf sash Of silk holds the
skirt smooth and plain on the front and
sides, drapes the figure sufficiently, and
gives a rather bontIant effect behind.
Such dresses are also shown In black vel
vet, trimmed with grOs gain and fringe,
and in black silk united with cardinal red
silk.
The front OF costumes Is the objective
point for trimming this season. Paris.
iennCs have abandoned tOurnures and all
boufIant effects, and the garniture Ia now
massed in front or on the sides. JabOts,
folds, bows, tabliers, and pockets trim the
front and sides abundanNy, yet the fash.
ion Of tying the skirt back remains, and
the iulness Ia massed behind.
Sleeves are also very much trimmed
this season. There Is less shirring and
putting upon then, but there Ia fancy for
rows Of horizontal folds, for irregular
plaits across the whole front Of the
sleeve, and for deep cuffs that trim the
sleeve TO the elbow.
Notwithstanding fringss and laCes are
30 lavishly used, there Is q fine style
found in the new untrimmed garments
that makes them very popular. There
are over.aklrts and polonaises OF the
richest fabrics that are merely helnmed
or faced, and thus the purchaser can a..
ford to invest more money In the materi.
al OF her suit.
Muls are made TO match the new cos.
tune. Dresses Of bfocaded velvet and
silk have muifs Of The velvet Ornamented
with small bouquets Of AOwers. Feather
mulls, exceedingly light, small and warm,
are also shown 10 match the feather Dor.
derR Of costumes.
OF all garments that have grown Ion.
ger cloaks show the most decided In.
crease In length. The long pelisses and
bas1uineS, nearly fitted 10 the figure, are
revived for cloth cloaks, while long
French sacQues with loose backs are
used for those Of silk that are lined with
fur. Dolmans are also longer, and have
ample sleeves from the elbows 10 the wrist.
Evening dresses are composed OF two
or three materials, such as soft damask
silk over faille, with velvet IlounceS, or
else damask gaute over silk, with lace or
crepe lisBe trimmings. The square trains
already described, The CuiraSSeS, scarfs,
fchuS, and large pockets, are repeated on
the most elaborate evening dresses. Cor.
set waists and low round neckS, with
deeply pointed front and basque backs,
are shown for low corsages; there are also
thtee.guarter low corSages cut with
SQUARE necks. Betthas Of folds, lace,
flowers and fringe trim the riecks Of low
waists. The bertha IL usually made Of
the material Of the tablier, such as dam
AJAX. silk or Chambery RauEe. while the
waist and skirt are Of ak. Trains are
not extremely long. Aprons reach to
the foot Of the dress. The back breadths
are not very boullant, and are arranged
In soft puff, shitred wings, reverS, wide
box. plaits and large ornamental bows.
Flowers still border the deep apron and
trim the tablier, but newer arrange
menL IL to mass them In thick clusters
down the sides from bell 10 foot.