Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1875-11-03
THE FASHIONS.
Fall and Winter Styles for Dress Ma
teriaIs-BOnnets Most in Favor
Modification of Methods
of Trimmings.
New COIOrs - Embroidered Patterns
FaVOrite Ribbons and Hats
What Memphis Bellies
will Wear.


We learn rom the n oW 0rk ITGOIt3lS
that wooden costumes, either in cashmere di-
with soft wool plaids and stripes, are the ma
terIals most suitable for wear at present This
costume, worn for walking while il is still
fresh and new, will become later an excellent
travelling costume; and a felt hat artistically
trimmed with silk and velvets of the same
shades as the costumes makes an elegant and
appropriate finish to the dress. New hats are
always adopted with more hesitation than
new wraps. One feels certain distrust of the
new hat or bonnet; IL may not prove sue
cess, and one cannot easily get accustomed to
il. Few can tell the courage il requires to go
cut wearing the latest fashion in
BONNETS,
But after long weeks of alterations and con-
situations the bonnet question is happily set
tied, and doubts and hesttatiOns are at an
end. Three different shapes will be the fist
sought, and so economical Is fashion that last
years felt shapes are easily remOdeled and re-
trimmed at very little cost. The picturesque
and artistic Rembrandt is revived in felt, and
the soft broad fur brim has an upward turn
at the left side. The trimming is scarf of
soft silk, ostrich plu INES, an antique Orna-
ment of dligree or chased silver, and low at
the back a cluster Of shaded crimson roses.
This hat should be black. The MOntagnard
hats have stately high crowns nearly covered
with fluffy feather rucheS and nodding ostrich
tips, forming an elegant and striking appear
ance. The familiar Handicapped Derby is
also revived; notwithstanding its extreme
simplicity IL is not tnhRrmonious in its as
pect. There are beside toqCes Of old-ume
popularity, rather more daring than before,
and the DIRE ssy, handsome wIde-brim felt OF
cream-color and fawn, and white shades,
worn set back on the head, and thereby form.
ing an aureola with its brim. The facing is
of light creamy silk, shirTed, and beneath is a
roll OF velvet with fiat bow above the fore
head; in this may be placed rose, cluster of
white pinks, carnations, or gerantum leaves
at pleasure.
BONNET TRIMMINGS.
The modified bonnets are as graceful as they
are admirable for good taste The brlm is of
Z n hoIn CHI lint hn &,
smaller and the sides resemble the long for
gotten modest cottage bonnet, IN fitting the
head SO closely. Ribbon strings are attached
to the backs, and women who hoped to pro.
tect their ears this winter, will find their
hopes useless. The ribbon-strings are simply
to be crossed behind and csrelessly brought
forward for Ornamental display, Black lace
is also used in the same manner. a Renais-
sance coifure is repI esented in full Trimmings
rangement of the very full lace trimmings,
rendered more coquettish by being placed
upon one side. Black velvet Oonnets seem to
be the exception. Seal brown velvet, as well
most popular color. The fashionable birds
are a bird with bronzed blue wings, and the
purple-red tanager. Then follows an enor-
nous quantity of starlings robins, humming-
birds and golden-headed orioles With the
birds, flowers are used in great abundance.
There are ferns enough to stock fernery,
grasses and little grapes, upon which
the soft gray bloom yet fingers.
The ornaments of the bonnets in
There are roses everywhere, long-stemmed,
and others maSsed in clusters, the pink and
blue lotus blossoms of Egypt, and just such
flowers besides as one finds in quaint old
fashioned gardens, pinks, rich carnations and
purple hearts ease, rosemary and starry mar
guerites, Jun per- berries, brown and shining
tufts OF bracken and branches of heather. A
charming face-tn mining inside the brim, in
deed, is q ruche of closely curling ostrich
feathers. There are others Of the gray, downy
feathers from beneath the peacock's tail, and
ruches of breast feathers. Stiff and uncom-
promising are the black and colored pompOns
and sharp wings of birds upon some high
crowned hats, so one turns win relief to q
Rembrandt or Rubens hat, with its pie
turesque, wide-rQlling brim turned up at one
side, its black floating plume and ornament.
Lace is very little usedson bonn6ts, excepting
the cashmere ecru lace, which is very xpen-
siye: il has its woven limitations, and there
fore is used sparingly. The favorite ribbon is
are dou ble-faced, thick and heavy as satin; in
fact, are satin on ore side and gros-grain on the
other. lt is dihcuit 10 snaS ne new colorS, for
every tint and shade of the old colors has
been exhausted. There are cold notified grayB
called gran te, and dark coors in silks and
@ ashneres so dark as to be called "invisibles,"
aud there Is q blue plum, crushed strawberry,
cardinal, and seal brown of decided shades
The art of trimming, IL seems, lies in knowing
exactly when to bring the lining, g TO speak,
TO the fore. The facingS to pleatlngs is I'd lned
back 50 as to show; ovenkirts are dr&ped so
as 10 show IL. The accessories 10 the toilet
this season are very charming and graceful.
The com binRtiOn of colOrS, however, requires
artistic skill, foT dead or cold color, as gray
or London smoke, or any neutral tint, should
never be united to another of the same sort.
Al late exhibition of goods, a silk costume
OF delicate ivory tint was beautifully con-
trasted with sleeves, skirt, and rolling collar
of rich navy-blue velvef,
DRESS MATERIALS.
Last season a great deal of silk was used for
SOW quantities of g8uZe aud
tulle intermixed give wonderfully beautiful
effect to q dF9sS, They are plain, striped and
Beneath and in combination are
silks Of opal blue, violet, gold straw, and
blue; and there are clouds of lace, thread
flowers and India woods of Cobweb texture,
draped with long garlands of pale tea roses,
and Others of pink with very dark foliage.
The colors are all very delicate, Dead white
the fabric, over II is cast a lovely creamy,
ivory, or rosy tiDt, and relief Is given by the
very dark foliage of Sewers. An evening
toilet, conspicuous onl5 for its perfect taste
and delicate beauty, was made OF while
ddJadSse. The front of the skirt was covered
with pleatings OF tulle; a tu.le tablier was
dotted and edged with pink rosebuos
half hidden in dark moss. The
wide rose color sashes were lined with brown
satin, and caught up in loops by clusters of
rose buds. The two waists, high ana low, Zyere
trimmed to correspond. The entire front of a
dark blGe satin dress was covered with rows
Of creamy NaIenc!enpes lace. The basque had
striped cream-colored and blue satin, alIer-
mating with Val ncie1nes inserting On ths
basque, and falling like girdle, was a wide !
Persian galloon made of tiny colored glass |
beads. A cres N -coiored satin SKIRT had full |
rain Of SILK brocaded with velvet. Cardinal |
)verskiTt. which was bordered with black o. |
rich feather rucheS, A charming toilet nj