The Indiana State sentinel. [volume] (Indianapolis) 1868-1895, 1875-07-29

ONCA SuC ouOuAueIs ny a string, Salut6O
with the grave courtesy of q polished gentle
man, scratching himself the while with a
furtlve vlg0r that was hoth amusing and
suspicious. But the slcalde-in which conn
try shall we find one more smooth. dig
pItied, and hospitable than he? When
he had demonstrated our wav 70 rs
in voluble Spanish and by earnest
gestures, he invited us to dismount and take
a cup OF coffee or glass Of wine. He was
the magistrate of the town. a. once the
mayor, the police Justice and the town coun-
Gil, as comprehensive character as the sur-
vivor in Gilbert's ballad of The Nancy
Ball" His house was a castle OF its kind.
and had been built in the DAYS when IuSi-
ans were troublesome on the border. All
the windows looked cut upon an interior
courtyard, and the door was wide and strong
A look of disappointment passed over the
reverend senor's brown face because We de-
clined his hospitallties, and as we left him
he reiterated bis directions in his anxiety
lest we should mistake them. The building
next IN Importance 10 the executive man.
structure, with plain vooSer
cross surmounting its one story.
have been told that the New Nexicans ars
the worst priest ridden people in the world
ana oil THIS shall speak again hereafter. n
Is certain that they are relieiouslv inclinod
The men who gathered around as at the al
cade's door wore little silver crosses on their-
Dare breasts, and ia each house a small crr-
clflx is the only ornament. In personal an
pearance the New Mexicsns are spare and
Dro"n-sklnned. Their hair and eyes are lus-
trously black, and their speech is low ana
pleasant. You can not know how sweet The
human voice Is until You have heard one OF
their women say no sabe or quien sabe. she
uttsrs IL with a gentle, melting, longing in
tona'lon 70 be enjoyed, and nCo 70 be dc.
scribed. But
NEw-MEXICAN WOMEN
--raf a1l
lures are irregular and tie forms ara snnaf
Some of them study comfort more Than dol
lcacy, and In hot weather are content TO fiut-
ter about in chemise and flannel pstticost
Out OF coors they swathe themselves in lar,,e
black shawls. covering the head and mart ri
1ne lace IN picturesque manner that re-
MINDS one OF Turkey. And friend of mine
maintains that there is a still further SINH
larity between the extremes OF lie here AND
those OF ancient Palestine. The houses are
prlmltlVe enough certainly, and TIE maid
ems carry earthen vessels OF water on thei.
neads In the same manner that
Rebecca did in the time of the natri-
srchs. The only American usually settled
In the Mexican town is the post trader will,
q VIE or daughter, il whose house we per-
maps ma piano, sewing machine. and 2
rocking chair-things that strike rs as hainc-
prodigicus and exceptional luxuries. Af-e7
month OF camp life, indeed. tie Smallest
suggestion of home and home con1forfs
comes upon US as gratefully as a mol M
water in desert. We travel tor DAYS to-
gether without seeing Lying soul, until
we would willing exchange hundred miles
OF the rugged mountains for a mere glance
at New England village. AZ we
passed out of Conejos we saw ma.
tive plowinga field with an iron shod torkes
stlck, dragged by pair of oxen, and the other
agricultural implements in use would have
been disgrace to mechanical genius a hun-
dred years ago. Our guide secu-ed. we fol-
lowed trail over some thicklv wooded hills
into branch of the Coneios canon. and
from that point to the present camp our rath
has lain through p country of rer1arkahle
luxuriance. Here the thirsty sage bush is
superseded by succulent plants, the spsrse
grass by tall sheaves, and the dust hv re-
freshing dews. The foliage is prodigal in its
variety and beauty of shades The 5ines are
marshaled on the heights, with prickly arms
thrown out TO catch the sunshine which thew
repel. In strong contrast with thar no.
siveness OF color are
THE CoTToywcobs.
with gray bark and small oval leaves tl,a.
tremble and CLEAN like the silver nonlsr a.
me least touch of the wind. Down in the
holiows shrub grows with profuse en-
erald leaf and bright red stem. under the
shelter of which are gardens of wild fiow-
ers, MOSES and ferns. The grass is from,
twelve to eighteen inches high, and a tronic-
like plant, called the cebadilla, has leaves
nearly eight inches broad. Thick. foo as
the living timber is, the trail is made difi-
cult by that which is fallen or burned tothe
stumps by forest fires yet snoulderinc
and by the maZes of elastic vouro
cottonwood in the underground The cotton.
WOOD Is the most prolific of Western trees
and the prettiest. On breezy day ia Sprino
the air IS filed with IT'S seed which foo,s
about IN coat of silky down, But where
ali TINS beautiful luxuriance IS, where ire
grazing Is the finest in the world. and me
land the most promising, the Climatic con-
ultioDs are sucn ehas farming is impossible
ana cattle can not live in Winter. In one
OF the IoVellest spots in the canon there is an
abandoned log cabin, and that is the only
haoltatlon we saw between the town ~
Conejos and TERRA Amarillo, distance n.
about tbirty-eight miles. For TIE greater
part OF day we threaded the canon OF the
Los Pihos py precarious trail worn
Ia one of the walls at least brn-
dred feet above the bed. Masses at
rock and pebbles came along dovr
upon US from the impending cliffs Of ragged
Dasait, and a misstep would have cost the
hves OF mule and its rider. Camp No. IL
was at the head of the valley OF the Rio
Chama, in cold, dark. silent glen amono
mountains that looked down upor, hun-
dred miles of country. The pines were
thick around, intensifying tire gloom ard
profound stiffness of the. primitive wilder
ness. Enormous sandstone rocks iutted ont
hundreds of feet overhead, worn info u,eirS +.
forms, and dyed, gray, red, blue. and yellow.
Directly over our camp three needles cut
the alrsnke the pointed turrets of an old
Normandy house. and as the falling sun
caught these they burned like brillisntly-
colored fires. The night followed soon cold
dark, impenetrsble, yet so clear that we
could count the pines on the mountain
ridges, and cur camp fires threw a rudy
glow on the chaotic piles of rocks.
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FPIGHTENED EATrrrpC