Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1875-11-30
Mourning Fabrics and Costumes and
their Trimmings,

NHOuih'Hs FaDrlCS ana OStumes and
their Trimmings.
Mourning costumes afford fewer changes than
any other department of dress New materials
are slowly introduced, aud are long considered
before permitted to take the places OF the
standard fabrics whose many pxceleucics have
kept them III lavor year after year Henrietta
cloth, English bombaziue, Freuch cashmere,
tarmlse. Barathea aud Messcrale cloths, black
oalneIs hair, drap de rhierry and lustreess
silks, with the cheaper materials, such a.
SergeS, empress clOth, merinoS and lustreless
alpacaS, furnish the goods known to the trade
rs mourning dress fabrics Henrietta cloth is
very properly regarded as one of the leading
materials as 1t Is perhaps more largely used
than any ether. This ranges in price from 81
to vs.. ln consequence of the popularity of the
HeDrletta cloth, bombazue, at one time the IA
Vorltc goods for costumes de deuil, is of COM
paratively rare occurrence now, though the best
quality of In llsh bonba is still in the
mode. In prices, bombazinc runs about the
same as the Henrietta cloths. Tamaise cloth
owes It's popularity in part to its cheapucSs
and may be purchased in fair quality for 81,
and best Tor Sl.5O per yard. Cashmere always
acceptable, Is largely patronizad and comes in
double width at from 81 to So per yard, ac-
cordlDg to quality. Black camels hair cloth
Is more Expensive, ranging 10 price at from IS
to S. and S. per yard.
D:ap lie ihlerry is a comparatively new
goods having been Introduced last season. 1t
shows twill, and is heavier than either the
oambazlue or the Henrietta cloths, aud comes
at about the same prices. Lustreess silks are
generally reserved for second mourning, but
when largely covered with Grape are admirable
10 the deeper mourning. For first mourning
Grape is the only trimming permitted. AS a
rule his Is put Oh IN wide folds, the wider the
handsomer. On widows costumes the crane
often conceals entirely the garments it trims
English grape is the most expensive, costing
from So TO S. and S. per yard.
Alter widows outfit, the mourning for
other relatives Is less exacling 10 its require.
ments, and almost any black fabric, if it shows
hnlsh OF Grape, may be worn without giving
oHense ln the lighter mourning crmpcd trim
mugs and frlngcs are worn also new mate
rial used III the same manner as Grape, and re-
sembllng 1t somewhat in texture though diff
terlug IN material; in fact Grape silk, verv
handsome and very expensive.
Excepting 10 the carly days Of the deepest
mourning the black Grape ruchings, collars,
Nc, are superseded BY ruches of white crepe
llsSe, tar atan and silk tuc, worn inside the
Grape collar oil the dress, and also inside of the
sleeves. Ibis generous use Of white about the
neck aud hands greatly relieves the sombrc eff
fect OF MOURNING costume, apd renders it less
Objectionable IN that II is more becoming to
the wearer. By aud by collars and cuffs of
the same or some similar material; then come
the linen collars and cuffs with their plain
black borders, aud fnally white ones without
the black bauds
Dress costumes and cloaks for mourning out
hts are fashioned after the same models worn
IN colors, with the difference that the extreme
novelties are left and the less conspicuous
MODES chosen. For wraps, heavy beaver, chin
chllla, drap dete and other Atwood cloth
cloakiugs may be used When crane is net re-.
CURED these are trimmed with any of the black
turs; beaver, lynx and black martin arc among
those IN more common use. For deep mourn
Ing, wadded silk cloakS, covered with crane
are very popular.
First mourning bonnctS are composed en-.
tirey of English Grape, aud may be made in
any OF the prevailing shapes, excepting 10 the
case OF widow, when regular bonnet, and
not bat, must be chosen. The cottage shape
Is suitable one, and also very popular, partlc
Widows bounttS show the usual ruchug Of
white tarlatan or crepe lisse on the inside. Wild
oWs walls are about three yards long. and have
a hem at the BOTTOM from Que thrd To one-halr
yard deep These wells at first are worn over
the lace, and retained 10 place 90 the bonnet
by plnnlug on either side with jet pins. Later
they may be thrown back or arranged so as to
fall al the LETT side. lD both cases a shorter
vel Is worn over The face, for Il protrcion
| The strings are either OF Grape or Of lu-ire!cs,
ribbon. In second mourning hats are worn
with propricty if preferred IT, tonurtS, and are
made OF silk with Trimmings of Grape and silk
il'werS. jet is sparsely Introduced in fjwers
but Is no longer a regular mourning ornament
Widows caps are made either Of white crcpn
lsse, white crepe, or white taratau. Some
times these are formed by simple squares of
the material tied back with black ribbons
OF wide strings of the same; again they arc
made with crown and tabs Among other
styles recommended are the Fauchon and the
Marie Stuart shapes.
Mourning dresses for misses should be self.
trimmed as crepe, even in small quantities, is
unsuitable. Black and white are also freely
used 10 costumes Tor youthful mourners. Lit.
! tie chlldrcn when compelled to wear black at
all, have 1t introduced In the trimmings t. sim.
ply white dresses, as, for Instance, white
dress worn with a black ribbon sash, black hair
ribbons, aud black shoes and stockings.
All jewelly is discarded in the deepest
mournll 6, the only ornaments fitting being
considered those made Of Whitby let and bog
| wood