Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1875-08-08
PARIS FASHIONS.

Worth, Paugat and other equally we'll
known Paris dressmakers, already arrived
through the orders of private individuals,
furnish in detail the differences from last
seasons modes.
From these several sources it is learned
that dress skirts are made narrower than
ever, so scant and closely drawn back in
fact, that one is hardly comfortable in them
except when standing. To sit fairly down
in the ordinary way is rendered impossible,
not only for the reasons mentioned, but
because the OVerskiFts are too long to admit
Of being raised and thus save from crushing
the trimming which largely masses at the
back. The consequence is, the ladies who
are dressed Ia mode approach chair side
4 ways, aud in this position only can sit
down without breaking any Of the numer-
Gus straps and gathering strings, or ruth
leSSly running dollars worth of elaborate gar
niture.
The cuirass bodice remains in high favor,
while the cOTssge grows longer until the
waist is made not only to reach the hip.
but, with short, stout people, pushes them
down and iinprisons them lower than their
natural place. This increased length of
| waist IS rendered more noticeable from the
abs snce of all Trimming on the bodice, they
being finished about the neck even, with a
fiat collar, a narrow standing one or,
simpler, still, little band. The sleeves
are much smaller and simpler Ornamented,
aud have little plaits laid underside to
make more room for the elbow, as in the
Old-time gowns Of two generations or more
ago.
Hoops are not seen at all, but q small
tOurnuTe is worn to give the desired extern
sion-immedistely IN the back-for hold
ing in place the basque ana drapery which,
drawn plain across the front and over the
hips gathers all lis fullness there. These
! long, plain-waisted and narroW-skirted
dresses, which reveal the form with greater
freedom than ever, and show III its Undu-
lating lines and curves each movement Of
the body, delight in the same proportion
ladies with slight willowy figures that they
appall others having a tendency 10 embOn-
point.
A MARGUERITE DRESS.
A rousseau seen last week illustrates the
peculiarities already alluded to, besides
showing in several Of lis dresses the present
Juror for copying from operas and plays the
designs of their more fanciful costumes
! Such one was 4 Marguerite dress from
| Worth's, made in exact imitation of Neil
sons familiar toilet in this character. II
was an evening dress Of white Irish pOplin,
having straight cOrsage cut square in the
neck, before and behind, with short sleeves
! trimmed with silk and tulle. The long
train skirt was devoid of all OTnamentatiOn,
excepting handful Of margarites, which
Hoped il up on one side,
Another facsimile Of a celebrated ac-
tress' costume was given in dress Of silk
fabric somewhat resembling grenadine, and
! Of two cOlOrs-light blue and amber.
| The skirt was trimmed with several narrow
bias fOunceS, edged with Valenciennes
lace; but the crOwning feature Of the whole
| was the pOlonaise which formed the over
dress. The back of this at one side was
cut up square and hung open, while the
| other side was rounded and lOoped high.
! The front, which comes close about the
neck. hung very long, without being belted
in at the waist was drawn back in such a
manner that the figure was clearly outlined,
without any apparent arrangement for the
same. The pulled sleeves were pushed up
above the elbows to simulate a marquise
sleeve, and the whole was dotted here and
there with Frenchy bows Of both colors,
making altogether a charming summer
dress.
The La Juive dress furnished also a copy
/ from the opera; it was composed Of gray
| silk and cashmere, and decorated with a
| unique silver and black braid. The cash
mere OveTdress represented a peasant gar
ment, in which the bodice and OyerskiTt
| were all of one piece. This was cut low
! and square in the neck, and intended 10 be
| worn with the under cOrsage and skirt Of
| silk.
/ A RECEPTION DRESS.
| a reception dress from WOrth's, la Di-
lnh al lraI
| before been given only to three customers
one for the Princess de Metternich, and
the others for lady well known in Paris,
| who, among other things, is distinguished
/ for her elegant wsrdTObes. The train skirt
/ TO this was Of black silk, fitting without
fUllness or wrinkle over the front and hips,
/ and, like all of WOrthis skirts, was devoid
Of rufile or founce, but depended for its
| appearance upon the particularly graceful
sweep Of its ample back breadths. Worn
| over this vas a sort Of pOlonaise Of yellow
| brCcaded silk, which descended in long
square skirt behind, ito be caught up on one
side and turned away on the other. In
front the bodice was cut away 10 reveal a
! plain yellow satin, Ornamented with little |
| pockets, and falling below this was a mar
/ row but long tabller, finished about the |
bottom with fringe.
Paugat among other things contributed a !
garnet reception dress for this wardrobe, |
for which the famous milliDer TOurels |
made the bonnet. The skirt was gathered |
in the back SO as to form pufis running up |
and down the length Of its train, while !
plated velvet and silk trimmed the side |
widths, which met the long velvet apron |
front finished with elegant fringe. The |
velvet cOrsage was laced in the back and |
extended in long points, while the fasten- |
ings TO the waist in front were concealed by |
a shirring Of silk. The plain silk coat
| sleeves were simply bound with velvet |
about the hands, and bore on the right one !
a knot Of ribbon without ends, and on the |
other bow and long streamers. The bon |
net was Of the same velvet as the bodice |
and oyerdress, and fitted So closely to the |
! head As to do away with the necessity for |
| the usual fastenings; it was Ornamented on |
the outside with a yellow feather, which |
was held in the bill Of gray bird perched |
| on one side, and yellow crush roses filled |
the front,
Ablack silk dress from Paugat's, trimmed |
with lace and light blue grOs- grained rib |
bon, showed The peculiar flOunces which |
are one of his specialties. They are usually |
designed for the skirt proper, and are made /
quite wide, with shirrings occurring all over /
them at irregular spaces, giving a novel as
well As pleasing effect. These fiounceS, /
and basques made trine shorter in the /
front, are among the marked differences be-
tween the Paugat and Worth costumes,
while Tourel's bOnnets are smaller than
the lattcr's and are moulded more closely |
to the shape Of the head.
SUMMER DRESSES.
An instance Of the pretty summer dresses
Of ecrU linen Of some foreign texture, assO-
ciated with plain Marine-blue linen, and
Ornamented with a news trimming known
abroad IS Russian lace, was also seen with
these Imported suits. Regarding this lace,
it is best described perhaps by comparing
it with guipuTe, which it somewhat resem-
blss, and comes in ecru, gray and black,
frightened by the introduction Of the color
of the trimmings Of the garment-that seen
on the dress alluded to being ecru and
marine blue. In these linen dresses are
noticeable the same long waists, narrow
skirts, tightly drawn away from the front,
and long Overskirts so fashionable in all
other materials; also sleeveless jackets,
made Of the same material as the dress, for
out door wear-shOrt in che back, long over
the hips, and meeting across the chest
with some pretty fastening, to turn away
- ~ lolIrr- and chou l., ]