National Republican., 1875-07-27
THE STRANGE cnxn1JupE.
[r,. st,,Is,, Idss, Of Fsminius Gear.

THE STRANGE cHKNIJUPE.
Mrs. ssssls's ideas Of Feminine Gear.
dress that shall be an improvement upon our
present one must be simpler, looser, more easily
adjusted, more evenly applied to the whole form
that Is, warmer for the extremities, less warm
about the trunk. Union suits Of knitted texture
for ladies were IN the market ten years ago.
Chiidren's sizes are quite common, and the ordi-
nary vests and drawers can be combined at the
waist line by seam upon which may be put
buttons that shall hold stocking suspenders or
the band Of ordinary cotton drawers. The next
garment We propose to call "chemijupe," from
two French words, meaning shirt and petticoat
1t should have yoke fitted to the shoulders and
neck, should have . collar upon It or ruches, and
the front edge Of the yoke may be ornamented
for those who choose to wear dresses with pointed
neeks. Below the yoke II should have the
gathers Of o chemise, made long enough to be
Ornsmented at the bottom, that It may take
the place Of an underskirt. 1t should have long
shirt or coat sleeves, with cuffs or rufies at the
wrist. Next above this We propose garment,
which we call "body coat" to be made Of ma
terisl warm as possible for winter, cool as posi-
BILE for summer, and Of medium thickness for
the demiseasons. Its upper part Is q sleeveless
basque, hslEhtting-so loose about the waist
line that no wrinkle or crease OF the under
clothing shall be found upon the body at night;
uObuluB icbs tuhu tubt - lOO5c- 1uo suOulucE
seams should be short, and the basque continue
below the belt line i've inches, and there be at
tached to the fullness Of . balmoral skirt, made
Of light wooden cloth or quilted material. or
nounced, to take the place Of hoops in bearing
out the drapery Of the outer dress. This body
coat should button in front from neck to hem,
and have at the belt line row Of buttons to hold
the band of the dress skirt and the band Of the
overskirt, II one is worn. Lastly, the dress In
truo ort thraa MI frf md ali
ting sack-or skirt and pOionsise-or in one, as
Gabrielle wrapper.
THE cHEAIyuPK.
Let us consider the advantages such costume
would afford us. First, for cool weather. Knitted
material is warm, clings closely, takes less room
for the warmth It gives than anything else, and
can be had from gsuze or silk wear to heavy
woolen. lone or more suits can be worn, accord
ing to the weather or the vitality Of the wearer
Such uidon suits bear also the weight Of cotton
drawers and stockings. Outer drawers once but
toned are likely to remain 50, till both garments
are laid aside, Iessening time and trouble. The
chemijupe gives rs chemise, underskirt, another
pair of sleeves to cothe the arms collars, cuffs and
ornamented bosom, all in enc piece, reducing
laundry work to the minimum. saving all the extra
trouble of pinning on collars, buttoning and
pinning cuffs, sewing on ruches and fastening
neckties, enabling lady to be always in order as
to the ornaments Of dress. One dozen such gar
ments would take the place Of at least three
Properly fitted and appropriately ornamented,
they would conduce todevelopIng the individualf-
There are some heroines Of fction Of whom We
never think except with vision Of dainty, fresh
lace at neck and wrists; Of other more common
cuffs and collars. The dress that eharacterizes
a lady is what she always wears, at home in the
morning, in the evening, in the street-not a
ah auf ~ Snah hF7ah nd
as love to see the same attention given to neat
ness and beauty at breakfast as at supper should
snstcs Tha sna VII u a5snsd IS m co6 a6a
tions, all purses. The whole clothing is more
easily changed, to dress for dinner or the street,
than now to change collars and cuffs.
PLAIN COMMON SENSE.
The body-eo serves to support all the rest of
the clothing. Being short upon the shoulders and
having ample arm-holes, IL allows the utmost
freedom Of motion; 1t should take the place Of
be made double breasted. This, too, can be made
to crafty the taste of the wearer. Now that
sombre colors are the rule, lady may here ENJOY
ing color blue2 think of q bodycoat Of Marie
Louise cashmere or flannel or heavier cloth,
basque and founees ornamented in keeping, or
scarlet or ecru dove color or royal purple. b.
ing much shorter than the dress skirt, il should
be In little danger Of soiling from mud or dust,
quilted, may be made OF the richest material
or of coarse voolen, and be closed with the
prettiest OF buttons that are fiat. Its beauty
it wiser to adopt black or invisible
shades for the street-a fashion that Is likely to
prevail for an indefinite time, as 1t is in conso-
nance with the increasing activity of woman's pur-
suits, calling her more frequently abroad, at the
same time rendering her less conspicuous. Lilac
satin coats and buff satin vaistcoats no longer
the dress of gentlemen, because q gentleman Is a
more useful creature in our generation than he
was few centuries ago. This body coat without
an outer dress would be as pretty for indoors as
a German PEASANTS costume, having the white
sleeves and collar, the corssge and short, warm
petticoat. The skirt band should be at least four
inches larger than the measure round the naked
body, to give room for loose underwear. This
band Of the outer skirt is the only band neces-
sary, 1t will be noticed.
OPPORTUNITY FOR CHOICE.
Now let us see how the improved dress may be
adapted to hot woather. First, If gauze under
wear be adopted the dress IS essentially the same
except in being made of lighter fabrics. II there
be no objection to wearing cotton drawers restiag
on the hips nor to wearing garters, drawers being
already made Of cambrie, very we'll. Then Q
chemijuPe, then q body coat, which may be made
pipnss; or, second, to use winter drawers without
altering the band, an elastic ribbon, with button
and buttonhole at the end, can be put in and out
round the body, then a chemIjupe, then body coat,
then Dress or third, one Of the patented articles
used for stocking sSspsndsrs I they 60 over the
stockings; then chemijupe, then body coat.
then dress; or, fourth, chemiloon with high neck,
the body, then the body coat, then the dress.
One can hardly reduce ones dress further and De
presentable. Think how many more articles must
be worn, even in. doors, In the hottest weather
now. Here some one says: "fhis IS all very well;
but what is one going to do at party?" Those
who have not the moral courage to appear In any
thing else than the convential low neck and short
sleeves may wear, of course, Just as much or Just
as little as they please. It Is no matter. / had
almost said they were not worth considering.
Some psychologists have replied to those who
would not listen to proposal to 20 without cor
sets: swell, wear them forever; draw the cords
tighter and tighter. Your life being Of no account
to the race the sooner you die the better for the
next generation"
WHERE THEY SELL CHEMILooNs.
We should be glad to name any place where
patterns Of these garments could be proc As
yet, no one of the several publishers Of patterns
can see enough prospective demand for them TO
induce him to publish them. Union suits may be
bought or made by joining ordinary knitted vests
and drawers. The chemjupe is like pointed
yoked nightgown, that is nicely fitted TO neck and
wrists short an uudersklrt would be, and
trimmed according to taste. The body coat looks
as II q founced dress skirt had been cut of and
sewed to the bottom of halEhtting sack, from
which the neck trimming had been cut away and
the sleeves cut out.
Pinned-B Back Skirts.
tFrom the st. Louis Globe-Democrat, July f.
This journal, being an ardent champion Of the