The Portland daily press., 1875-10-06
From Harpei's Bazaar.
The Latest Fashions,

Private milliners have had their fall OPEN
ings of bonnets, and settled the matter of
shapes for the season. Fashionable French
milliners have already modified the extremely
large bonnets sent out at the beginning of the
season, and now make a graceful bonnet of
admirable proportions and smaller size. The
haring aureo!e brm is retained, but the crown
is smaller, and the cottage sides fit the head so
closely that the bonnet scarcely needs an elastic
for holding il on. The ribbon strings that we
recorded as a sensible fashion, it seems are not
to serve their natural purpose of tying the bon
net Under the chin, but are to be crossed behind
the head and passed around the neck as a
drapery for the neck, instead of the black lace
scarfs lately worn. Black tulle and lace are
this is the only way in which black lace appears
upon the bonDets. Ecru cashmere lace is seen
at all the best millinery houses but is most
sparingly used. Very full face trimmings,
usually of velvet, chifonne-that is, in irregu-
lar loops, knots, halt-oows, rosettes that are
placed on one side, and in many odd curves
q la RendiSSdnce-are all in the new bonnets'
ThelstyliSh flowers are full soft tufts of roses,
or Carnations, or artemlsas, with much brown
foliage, mossy buds, pine cones burs and un-
blown buds. Felt hats will be worn before the
velvet ones are put on, and many of them are
so handsome that they will be worn ON dresy
occasions throughout the season.
There will be less matching the glove with
the shade of the dress than formerly. Such
dark shades are now chosen for costumes that
lght-colored gloves of some harmonious tint are
used to brighten the toilette. Thus with myI-
tie green, plum or 0avy blue dresses, the gloves
are of the neutral shades of mOde-color wood,
drab or cream. For those who prefer mono
toned toilette, there are dozens of shades of the
stylish colors, ,sate-gray. blue green and brown
1t is said gray will be the prevalent color for
gloves to wear with the various dresses. Brown
is shown in all the beige hues, and in many
seal brown and nut shades. Green gloves have
invisible" hues, and the blue-black gloves of
last year reappear. The safest purchase, how
ever, is the demi-shades of brown and gray,
such as the natural colors of undressed kid
gloves, as these are worn with any Dress
especially with black costumes
Elegant costumes for the carriage are among
the latest impOrtations. They are made of vel
vet and gros grain, with square trains added to
the upper skirt, that gives the effect OF short
train. These consist of three loug straight
breadths. usually of velvet, sewed 10 the upper
skirt just back Of the tablier, and forming the
back of the upper skirt, yet long enough to fall
below the dress skirt proper and entirely con-
ceal it, no matter of what rich faprc it is
made.
Embossed satin with,,velvet raised figures is
the novelty for cuirasses and trains of dinner
dresses, Thus, a full dress toilette of white
satin has square train covered with black
embossed velvet arabesques, and all of the
cuirass except the side forms is made of this
embosfed satin, while the side bodies are plain
white satin, as also are the sleeves. The tab
her is of white satin, with a founce Of black
velvet, which is edged with the new strawberry
velvet. Loops and bows OF white satin, lined
with strawberry velvet, trim the back of the
basque, the front and the cuffs of the coat
sleeves. Across the tablier are three diagonal
ruches of black ostrich feathers, edged with
heavy fringe of white and black chenille.