The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1875-10-07

shoulder seam is found on great numbers
of imported garments. French backs,
without side bodies, are not as popular as
they were a year ago. The side forms OF
English backs are the objective points for
trimming. Sometimes these side bodies
are heightened to form pockets or support
pocket1aps; in other cases they are made
quite long, and are Tapped or tied across
the middle of the back of the basque;
still others are bound on all that part be-
low the waist, a false side body of silk is
set underneath, and the wooden side
form is buttoned upon the silk n in a
way that half discloses it. There is a re-
newed effort to popularize dresses that
fasten behind; as these require the assist
ance of a maid, the latest plan is to trim
the back of the basque to initiate a lace
or buttoned back. The cuirass basque is
not changed in shape, but is trimmed
more than it was last season. Sleeves are
very close-ftting, and those for midwinter
are interlined with flannel, and in some
cases slightly wadded to make the arm
look round and plump. The fancy for
having sleeves different from the basque
continues. The long, square over-skirt
already described is of such simple, styl-
ish shape hat it promises to become one
of the favorite styles.
Among useful new costumes are those
of black cashmere, a fabric that is now as
low-priced as good alpaca, and is more
graceful and pliable, though it does not
endure hard usage so well. 1t is made up
in conjunction with black gros-grain of
the qualities that are now sold for $3.50
or 50 a yard. One cashmere suit that will
serve as a model has a single bias flounce
| shirred near the top, and edged top and
bottom with silk anticipating. The long,
square over-skirt, open up the back, is
trimmed across the front with three bias
bands of gros-grain placed quite far apart,
and each band edged with fringe. Tho
basque has two side bodies, one of which
is very long and begins in the shoulder
seam. The Byron collar and the sleeves
are Of gros- grain; three tapping folds
form the cuff, and a row of six buttons is
set on these. A second black cashmere
suit has a square over-skirt hat does no
meet behind, but has three puffs
of silk set in down the back, with
a wide, fringed end below. The
edge of the over-skirt is trimmed with {
knife pleating of silk, and this extends VI
the back On each side of the silk puff
The basque has silk sleeves, collar, silk
forms down the back and something like
a vest Of silk in front. A pretty suit o
brown cashmere has Il sheath Over-skirt
close and narrow, caught up on one side
by a reticule pocket and edged with bal
fringe. The brown silk skirt has q pleate(
hounce that is partly silk and partly cash
mere.
Another novelty is a double apron tina
is different on each side of the figure anC
laps in the front. Sometimes these apron
are plain on the left side and striped OIL
the right. A suit of three materials, plaiI
brown Algerienne, striped lgcricnne anc
brown silk, is made in this way, a plair
apron laps from he right side over an
other on the left, which is striped boil
are edged with striped knife. pleating. Thu
basque is of plain wool with striped
sleeves. The brown silk skirt has striped
wool and silk pleatings.-Hn7per's Ba=ar