New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1875-08-28

of popular effect.
KATAuDIN.
The morning express train from New-YOrk goes no
further than Bangor, and we stayed there all night,
pcrforce. Everybody knows what Supper lodging,
and breakfast means and that is what We had in
Bangor For statistics of the city refer the reader
to Osgoods excellent Guide-books. AS long as We
followed the course of the Penobscot next morning,
there was very agreeable scenery but after We had
made 80 miles. only compare it to the country
travcr sed by Jay Cookies Northern Pacific between
Duluth and the Missssippi-scraggy forests and
swanps, sometimes separate, sometimes combined,
blackened hideously by fires, rank with moist
vegetation and cloudy with mosquitoes. Yes, there
is one exception! As you turn from the PenobscOt
toward the mefuous Mattawamkeag, and look
! north westward over 80 miles of wilderness, you
behold tho grand. isolated mass of Katahdin
touching the scattered clouds. Not the eliminating
peak Of group of lesser nights, not the imposing
headland of ridge chain, but lonely as Soracte
scars over the Roman Campagna, and twice as high
above its rugged, unlovey levels of swampy forest,
it is n mountain to he thankful for, to rejoice in
lnurmured to myself the opening stanza of Lowells
| poem "1o Pine-Trec:"
Far up on Katlhdn thou tOwcrcst
rurple-bue with the distance an, and vast:
That hangs poised On luil Of the blast,
To 1T fan leaning awful!
and found that tho mountain deserved the poem.
| have heard artists of the Pre-Raphaclite school
declare that Nature is always beautiful and therefore
bc painted. The fact is. that Nature has her de-
| formitics and Diseases 10 less than man and the
animals. She has her wounds and scars, her chiils
and corgestions, ever her jaundcc; and the beauty
that dwelis in minute forms of organic life gives us
| no adequate compensation. have seen landscapes
which were absolutely rcpusive; and the entire
| hot, f,p Matt TN Xpap
! Riyers-n the present aspect-very nearly deserves
this epithet. Black skeletons Of trees which must
have been of stunted incomplete growth before they
We've blasted by fire, tower above wilder and more
unllempt generation; hnckleberries and dWarica
alder crowd between the yellow isl. sekly looking
moss iringes the slime OF bellows where tie water
| collects. On one side, three or four wood
men, equally stalwart and dirty. come out OF Their
plank shantcs to look at the train on the other SIDE
you see a group of haired Indians, and can
| almost note their smoky pork odor in flying past"
Only where the road touches iake-a wild, utterly
lonely pool, with bue and gentle sweiis OF forest
over its further hOrzon-is there any suggestion Vi
| beauty.
| Al Vanceboro' The last American station. we
| found rude primitive building, but an excellent
dinner The 1t. CroiX, which divides Maine from
New Brunswick is narrow, sluggish, insignificant
! crcek-not the majestic stream winch one might
suppose to Issue from the Schoodic Lakes-and tIe
foreign territory through which we speed cannot DE
| distinguished from our own. 1t is equally cold.
| primitive and uusubdued. can only chronicle the
excellence Of the hucklebeircs large horse-buckct
| fnu of which nav be bought for forty cents Even
| when the road strikes the Ncrcpis Valley, ana
descends TO the lac-kc sheet Of the ST. john there
| is no more or better cultivation than along the
| Pe.,cbscot. Although Ncw-Brunswicki is historically
older than New England, the most Of its features
| suggest a newer country.
The last half dozen miles of the road give ns sue
ccssion Of imposing views. From the grand reaches
| of the 81 John we sped across narrow pcninsuia
to The shores of the Bay of Fundy, and then curve
northward into Carleton, opposite the city OF 81.
,obn which rises from the water with an ar of real
| statcliGess and Importance We had Just stepped
from the train when was loudly hailed by name,
and a CHEEKY unknown individual offered his ser
vices lie announced the presence of some friends
| of ours Mt the ho,el; and, he had guessed our
identity SO promptly, recognized bis by giving INN
| my bacgaua-cbecks. While crossing on the ferry
boat he took occasion to introduce me to the ohecr
OF customs who accepted my word that we carried
| 10 merchandise, and p9ssed our TRUNKS unopened
Tie new friend who made our arrival so comfortable
was named Blackall and of course we used no Other
| carriages than his during our stay.
ST. John has a thoroughly English stamp; even IA
| smell is not that OF an American town. The dark
buildings Of smoky brick, the pancsS OF the archi-
| lecture. the unobtrusive character Of tle signs,
| The sober aspect of the sllop-wndows, and the
deliberate movement OF the people iii the streets,
proclaim another nationality before You notice the
| English colols on the nag-stans. Only the Victoria
Hotel is American in everything but lis name. There
| il a funny tramphal arch, left as 4 souvenir Of
Prince ArhuI's visit pubic square, not very well
kept o handsome new post-oilce building; tITee OF
four churches. which are impressive rom their ire
situation rathertlan their architecture and, finally,
hilly suburbs commanding views OF astonishing
| grandeur The three towns of ST. Johr. Portland
and Carleton, contain together about 10000 IN
nabitants but the houses 50 lifted by the shores
and scattered by the hills that one gets the impress
sion of a much larger place.
| Scenery or TIE PROVINCE
Reserving all sightseeing until return, we set
forward next morning by the IntercolCual Hallway,
nv which travellers row reach Halifax, 276 miles
| distant in II hours / first exchanged my green
| backs for Colonial paper-mOney, much less hand
some in appearance at discount of j. p0f cent. u
| wonder whether any OF our blatant lniiation ora
tors ever cross the boundaries Of the United States
Here our money is called " American !; news from
! the States is printed in the papers under the
heading of America" and our assumption OF the
continental name is thus practically accepted Inc
abrogatioa of the Reciprocity Treaty, ! an in
formed has already created distinct feeling of
Canadian nationality, by destroying the identity of
| many commercial interests Another result is the
great increase of direct foreign trade, from tho
| ports of the Dominion.
For 20 miles after leaving st. John The road skirts
the beautiful basin of the Kenncbecass, which Is
rather ford than river. It's crystal waters are
from three to five miles in width and the hill shores
! bDvond are dotted with broad, br,gho patches OF
farmland which have driven me gloomy belt oi The
i Ir.l.. lnf hD.L M