The New York herald., 1875-09-29
FALL FASHIONS.
The Lay Of the Last Bonnet and the Sonnet Of
the Modern Milliner.
GRAND OPENING OF THE SEASON..
Facts for Feminine Ears and Attractions
for Bellies Fancies.
WHAT SHOULD BE WORN THIS WINTER.

Yesterday was bright and cheerful day for the
sightseers and the pinbacked bellies Of Broadway
They thousands all eager and be seen
and they besieged the temple OF the modise TO the
mnent risk of the perishable fabrics for the and
form that hung temptingly hooks within glass
The music Of their voices ill-natured per-
call it cackle filed the air and conveyed inteI
gence of the most varied kind 'Oh, mamma what
lovely featherl" ''What airs she is putting on and
that's the commonest kind of silk" az think that
Of Spanish lace with the front of black velvet
would become much" 1.-THE Is are back from
the country and Ms still without beau ''dy dear
Mrs -, I'm so glad to see you How the darling
little chidrenH (sotto Uoce, The horrd thing and
what squaling little monAers' 81 don't want to be i'll
natured, but she really the laughing stock OF tho
place" "Perfecty lovely and so cheap Papa won't
refuse me-" "We are dying TO you at house. "
"Pll tell Mary that we never at home for such
people" Not always do the soto remarks escape
the ears of the victims, but then the deception
continues and smiles the cheeks while enmity
rankles in the heart The streets radiant with
beauty and ''worth, and many mathematician would
be puzzled to find out the why and the wherefore in
expense, style common that sent forth such
toilettes on the street Yet there so much to
find fault with compare this season with its pred
Matilda says that 1t less now for dress
materials, and OF course she ought to know. AS for
that horrid millner, who demands much for her
part of the business she must down to reasonable
prices else she will have no customers Alas here
is the trouble The fashionable milliner waits like
willy spider, waiting for the unwary in this
thoroughly posted fly to drop into the web of the
fckle goddess She the millner, has been obliged to
the gauntlet of Custom House inspectors he poor
fellows know much about the value of $50 bonnet
as our worthy Mayor knows about the Herzegovinan
question: and she naturally wishes to impress her
toners with the idea that she is goddess of Fashion
But she finds many unwilling worshppers at her shrine
They come to the latest but they select and think
for themselves. There is little homage in this And
yet 1t represents healthy state the average Ameri-
feminine mind Paris is still respected but the
fair city must consent to appear before court Of
American bellies and show why it should dictate
fashions. This fair committee of investigation has
been for few years in session Notifications or
adaptations OF Paris fashions have been generally
adopted Since the Empress left the gay capital, and
she wrongfuly accredited with being the orgl-
nator of several extravagances in dress American in
dfvdual tastes in dress have come into prominence.
Individuality, perhaps we may better call 1t adapar
bilty to face. form and general appearance, rules
American ladies' to-day to a greater extent than ever
did the socalled proclamations from the Tuieries.
AMERICAN FASHIONS
FIRST sprang from the ruins of the Empire The Com
petroeuses with any ideas 'what to how
to it," Therefore American ladies' began think
for themselves. To think, in matters of fashion, is
serious matter for the female mind. Our bellies said
that Paris undergoing baptism of fire, and
her heroines thought Of ncendarism than dress,
about time for America far Ewes daughters
were concerned to look out for themselves They have
those in their peculiarly energetic manner
A PROGRESS
In the days of good Queen Bess, showed far
travagance than beauties wont to display in
these times. When the wayward Queen visited the
of her avorite Leicester and wished appear
a huntress told by old chronicles ''her sylvan
dress was of pale blue silk with silver lace and agu
lettes and Kingdoms of jewels formed the
decorations Of the costume that dazzled every eye Re-
publican prncesses and queens not lavish of to
let display but show more taste and sense.
A BROADWAY.
Yesterday among the haunts Of fashion showed that
tho coming styles not so much extravagant as be-
coming The following houses visited on this
nowned thoroughfare Lord Taylor, William Kinney,
Conkling Co., J. & G. Johnston, Greg, Haskell Il
Co., A. T. Stewart & Co., Mile Snedden, Mile DENIM,
Nine Hartley, MlN Doane Porter, Nine Walton
and Mr. Terry The display of fall fashions at those
houses was as complex the most variable fem
nine mind The head gear of the ladies' being the prin
cipal question among the fair at present. few
specimens of the leading Styles seen in the above
establishments yesterday, will be of interest
drab felt bound with silver braid had band of
brown velvet twisted around the crown and a long
ostrich feather caught the left side and brought
around to the right hanging very loose. An immense
bow, with solid silver clasp, fastened the feather
the left side. pink moss rose, with leaves
came from beneath the bow. The trimming in the
do vii fact
The front trimming is OF brown velvet in three folds
around the inside leaving space OF about four inches
In the interior pull down the head There were
pne pink bud and few leaves fastened in front by
crossing of velvet hat OF black velvet elegantly
decorated with feathers II had round crown and
rolled front, with inside trimming of feather bands
large green bird at the side and small band and
Btreamors of cardinal red formed pretty decoration
young misses hat was rolled in front and trimmed
with silk and velvet A long feather, bird and bow
formed the principal trimming Another was very
high pointed hat, with a round crown, narrow brim,
slightly turned up at the side. 1t trimmed with
bands Of velvet, and had bow, long plume and gold
buckle.
bonnet with black velvet 'front.' the crown being Of
Spanish lace which was also wound gracefully around
he neck of throat protector, attracted much
attention. After passing the shoulder the dainty
sce was fastened the left side with cardinal bow,
70 correspond with group OF scarlet bows and ele
rant plume, finished with gold horse shoe This was
salled by Nile DENIM the "Leonidas" Next to 1t
was q French gray felt forming two fronts,
bound with silver braid. One long ostrich
Olume dropping over the front, and nm
shed with face trimming Of dark green velvet and
feathers formed another feature of this exquisite hat
from the crown depended elegant feather and silk
scarf which was arranged SO as to form strings The
marguerite" Of the most elegant bonnets OF the
Season OF ecru and felt trimmed with six feathers
the shade fastened the crown with rare bird
and bunch Of roses the face trimmings being OF brown
velvet with wings. The "Horton" Is round hat OF
black velvet the crown being arranged In pas form
ing an end trimmed with Russian lace An ecru plume