The weekly clarion. [volume] (Jackson, Miss.) 1863-1882, 1874-12-17
Two Dollars a Year.
THE FASHIONS.
From Harper's Bazar.I

From Harper's Bazar.I
The suit illustrated on our first PAGE.
and ofwhieh cut paper pattern is pub-
lished, Is stylish, shapely model for
thick warm, heavy wolen costumes
The design is remarkably PLAN and sim
pie, but Of such graceful outlines tn t
! elaborate trimmings are not needed--In-
deed, they would destroy lis beauty.
Ia the model used for the picture the low
er skirt is of silk, the empress overskirt
and basque (Which is not eiven) are of
Cashmere, and the jacket Is OF beaver cloth.
/ 1t Is not necessary, however, that these
fabrics be used. Any wolen goods, from
rich camel's hair to plain alpaca, will be
/ appropriate for the entire suit, and plain
/ silk costumes are also made by this pat
/ tern.
/ The double-breasted Jacket has straight
/ fronts and an English back The front
is narrower than that Of the English walk
ing jacket, and differs from il in being
extended at the waist line TO unite with
the middle forms Of the backs. There is
a seam under the arm, reaching from the
arphole 10 the waist where it meets the
prolonged front. This piece added to
the front makes a cross seam far down on
the side bodies, aCd gives a stylish long
waised appearance 10 the Jacket The
middle forms are quite wide at the waist.
making the two buttons on them wide
apart, in the English fashion. There are
also English lappots set in two of the
back seams below the waist The revers
collar like that on eentIemen's coats is
cut higher about the throat than usual,
and this Is an improvement in winter gar
ments. The shoulder seams are very
short and high, and the coat sleeves pro
jcct above the shoulders in the way seen
on gentlemen's coats. Black or dark |
blue beaver cloth is the material selected
for this garment. This costs from 81 TO !
81 80 yard, and is nearly yard and !
half wide. Cloths, with demi-lustcr and |
fieecy inside, are WarmeSt, and are more |
fashionable than glossy goods The |
most stylish Jackets OF this kind are now |
simply bound with wide braid, either fig |
ured or the plain reppod Titan braids. |
The cuffs and collar may be OF the cloth |
bound, or else repped silk, matelassa, or
velvet. The garment illustrated has
velvet cuffs and collar, with figured silk |
braid for binding. Buttons are OF medi- |
UNI size. Pockets are Of simplest shape. |
and merely bound, without flaps or but !
tons, as they are quite far back under the |
arms. The fashion Of trimming with a |
bias band Of heavy repped gros grained |
is not new, but is still liked. Turquoise |
silk, sometimes used for this purpose, |
wears badly, and does not pay Tor the |
trouble Of putting it on. silk bands have |
their lower edge sewed t. the garment. |
are then turned up on the cloth, and the |
upper edge is stitched on by the sewing |
machine When miiwinter comes many !
ladies add Il fur border on these silk |
bands; black marten is the fur most used /
for cloth garments, If the Jacket is made /
Of soft, warm, flexible cloth, lining is |
not used, as it only makes the sacque |
clumsy; but it is customary 10 face the |
fronts and the collar with farmers satin, |
and sometimes the sleeves have a similar |
lining, as that makes them easy to take |
off and on. There is also q stiff interim |
ing in the collar to keep it in good shape. !
Cloth jackets cost from SlS 10 $50 ready |
made, n the furnishing houses That |
shown W tiis I'iustrauron Is Sg4 More
dressy Jacket ,,eatte ay tina eeatfern
are Of the lustrous black repped Siciiienne;
sold at 81 yard. Il border Of chiuchilla
fur is the usua! trimming. Sometimes
SiciIieDne sacque are lined VITA squirrel
lock fur, and has no trimming whatever.
The new empress oycrs&;rt combines
and style, requires but two
yards and Il half OF cashmere and yet j.
SO ample that il couceals all defects i'm
the skirt beneath it. II consists Of two
breadths Of wide cashmere or camel's hair.
The front wilth forms long smooth
apron that is very slightly gored; one
yard is the average length OF this apron.
The back breadth is a yard and a half
long. 1t Is cut open down tn. middle,
and forms two dropping pufs behind by
being gathered on facing that extends
from The belt down over the tournure.
Strings underneath ia these backs togeth-
or closely 50 that they conceal lhe skirt
beneath Large loops OF doubled silk
are aiternatcd with the dropping pufs,
being soved between them, AID there are
slsh-eu Is If tie same below tie last plh.
Il facing Of silk, showing piping fold be-
low the edge. i, around the skirt, begin
ming just below the puA-. Sometimes
the skirt il merely hcmmad. ADD has
rows Of machine stitching ior ornament
The pretty trimming down tho middle Of
the apron is a aIoped piece Of silk, with
long topped bows SGT upon it. These
bows are Of double silk, with the ends
raveIcd cut to form fringe. I'm sewing
The apron to the bell thnre should be very
little fuinoss in the front breadth, while
The backs are very ful:y gathered. The
cuirass basque accompanies this
overskrt. 1t should be pipcd on the
edge, and have alopcd piece Of silk
down the back and front. The sleeves
may be either Of silk like the lower skirt
Or else Of the cashmere. TIE lower skirt
is the ordinary short walking skirt. A
single hounce is sufficient for trimming,
as the over skirt conceals most Of the low
er skirt
Black beaver mohair and brilliantine
suits made by this model are very tate
ful. The piping and sash loops should
be Of the dress material, and the skirt
should be trimmed with side pleatiug.
Dark invisible plaid camePs hair suits
have the cuirass and empress overskirt,
with sleeves and lower skirt of plain silk
4 very lady-like suit may be made Of
black cashmere and silk by this design.
DARK blue serge, bottle green cashmere,
and empress cloth suits are also shown
fashioned in this way.