Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1874-03-17
NO. IS.
SPRING STYLES.

ENGLISH BASQUE SUIT WITH LONG OVER
SKIRT.
The English basque with long, clinging
overskirt is the accepted model for plain
suits Of spring woolen goods, such as &c be-
ge,vigogne, cashmere, serge and alpaca 1t
is also used for summer camel 's-hair over
dresses, worn with silk skirts of the same
color or black. The basque is of simple
shape, depending on its fine fit for its
beauty. The seams of the wide forms of
the back, and, indeed, all the seams, are
laid over and stitched on the outside. The
pockets are merely flaps, the standing col
lar is in the Medicis shape, and the coat
sleeves fit smoothly. The draping behind
is very slight; the sides and front hang
squarely below, and cling closely to the
figure, being made of narrow cores sewed
to the belt without fulness. This model
is being used for dark blue, gray and
brown linens. trimmed with embroidery
OF with muslin pleatings, and also for
white repped piques, embroidered on the
overskirt and basque. Percales, cambrics
and plain prints will be made in the same
style. The lower skirt should be held
back by drawing string across the back
breadths about three-eighths or hall yard
below the belt
SPRING BONNETs.
The new bonnets are enlarged sizes of
last years shapes. A large crown
is the only feature common to all, as there
are bonnets with cOronets and without
them, and the vagaries of the brim are in
numarable.
CHIP, BUGLE NET, ETC.
Soft chip is the material for bonnets.
The white chips are better bleached than
the ecru chips Of last year, and the black
chips are finer than any before imported.
Bugle net-fine Brussels net or tulls with
hanging bugles or else dangling loops OF
tiny jet beads-is the material for summer
bonnets. Few ribbons are used for trim
ming. Instead, there is an effort to re-
vive regular gros-grain trimmings, as
many of the fancy stuffs, such as turkois
silk, have proved unsatisfactory.
COLORS AND CONTRASTS.
Silver gray, drab, and sefl delicate
shades of blue, pink and maize will trim
the pretty chip bonnets. Violet and law
ender are also largely imported, and the
Isabelle yellow, which has more maize
than the salmon and tea-rose shade now
used. A new color, ugly and unseason-
able, has claret hues shading from dark
salmon to darker Bordeaux; 1t is called
pOchard. Odd contrasts appear on French
hats, such as twisted scarfs of maize and
pink, or pink and garnet, or else Isabelle
yellow with dark maroon red; pink and
violet are seen together, also pink and
chestnut brown; and to these are added
flowers OF the same and other hues, max
ing variety of colors on each hat
Black bonnets have touches of color, and
are especially stylish when trimmed with
white flowers.
SMALL BLOSSOMS.
The small blossoms of the wood and
dell are chosen for spring garniture, and
there are great quantities OF white flowers.
The new fancy is to arrange pompon OF
some spiked flowers, such as valley lilies
or else long stemmed roses for the left
side OF the bonnet, with full wreath un-
der the coronet front, or else half-wreath
across the back of tho crown, or perhaps
a rose branch with full-bIown flowers at
one end. and quantities of green buds on
the flexible stem.
MODE OF TRIMMING.
Trimmings are arranged to give the
bonnet most, compact effect, dispensing
with flowing streamers behind and strings
in front. Bias twilled silk, or else gros-
grain in strips two or three inches wide,
finished on each edge with rolled French
hem, is very simply folded or twisted
around the crown and tied behind in Il
bow without ends. Upright loops and
perpendicular bows nestle against the
crown, and some have modified Alsacan
bow or great rosette in front, with
pleated fan-like bows turned behind.
There is also much initiating soft silk
crowns on straw bonnets, tiuted silk fronts,
and often there are Normandy crowns of
silk in straw caps.
BLACK CHIP BONNETS
The most useful, and, indeed, the most
stylish bonnets for city wear are those of
black chip, trimmed with white or colored
flowers. A model of these from the best
French house is in Charlotte Corday shape,
with the brim turned down all around,
showing white pleating beneath. with
pink ribbon roll. The crown is high, and
the only trimming is a twist of black gros-
grain ribbon around it, while the front is
covered with a cluster bow of many long
upturned loops mixed with elder bios
SONS and berries. Another black chip,
in Rabagas shape, has light blue twilled
silk scarf twisted under the coronet, and
tied in little bow behind; black gros-
grain scarf around the crown is also tied
in bow without ends; some pale blue
bows. two large blush roses, and jet
ostrich feather are stuck in the scarf. A
stately directoire of black chip has the
coronet faced with black velvet, and pale
pink scarf rolled underneath: full black
rosette in front, with a violet and rose
wreath behind. Another chip with black
and white lace for trimming is very hand
some, with its muslin pleated fiill around
the face, its Malines lace. jet ornaments
and nodding plumes.
VEIL PINS.
Real birds claws, mounted in silver
and holding silver or let ball, are &C.