The New York herald., 1874-09-21
Frontier Experiences Among the
PyreneeS.
A RIDE THROUGH BISCAY
The Stuff the Bourbon's Noun
taineers Are Made Of.
THE HIGHLANDS OF SPAIN.

o! travel. where everything Is modernlzed, and
throws you into part OF SPAN that has little
nection With the present century, part that re-
mains very much the same as II was five hundred
years ago. There is besides spice OF danger
caused by the unsettled state OF the country
which Is not without its charms TO those who love
adventure, and the wildness OF some OF the noun
tain scenery and its isolation rom the outside
world give rde through here a charm and In
terest not to be found at present anywhere else.
II is very easy matter to cross the frontier and
get into the country held by the Carsts. With
the exception OF one road-that leading to Irun-
the whole frontier OF Navarro is held by them: and
indeed It may be said they have possession Of
three-fourrhs OF the entire frontier between
France and Spain.
Naturally It forms no part OF the plans Of the
Carists TO stop traffic between the two countries
and all the trade that was formerly carried on by
the railway is now done by means OF mule teams
passing over the different ROADS that cross the
frontier.
Indeed, the utter absence of all impediments to
commerce seems extraordinary, considering the
state OF war N which the country Is placed; Tor
the Carhsts no: only encourage trade with them
selves but permit the regular transport OF all
sorts OF merchandise between Bayonne, on the
French side, and Pampeluna, the capital OF
Navarro, which is held by the troops of Ma rshal
Serrano. They SIMPLY content themselves with
exacting customs duties, instead OF cutting Pam
peiuna completely OFF from France, as they might
easily do. They have their custom houses their
custom house offcers, customs duties and every
thing relating to the collection OF these duties ana
the examination of luggage is carried on with all
the regularity and order OF an old and long estab
hshed government.
The diligence runs regularly between Bayonne
and Pampeiuna, passing through Carlist and re-
publican lines without molestation, passengers
being only required to show their passports
Foreign passports pass without question, and
Spaniards who can do so obtain them. Those who
cannot, procure a Car1st and republican pass
port, and show them alternately to the Carist
and republican authorities as occasion may re.
qulre 1t is just like passing between two friendly
countries.
1t win be seen from this that the favor shown to
the Carlists by the French authorities has been
somewhat exaggerated II the republican au-
thortleS IN Pampeluna have kind OF tacIt rect.
proclty treaty with the Carlists and keep up
regular trade with them, IT cannot be hoped
that the French VIII DO less IL cannot be eX-
pected that the French people along the frontier
should cease all commercial relations with the
Carlists, when the Madrid government encourages
such relations as it undoubtedly does in Navarro.
With the existing state OF things, with hundreds
mountain paths well as the broad high roads,
and nobody on the spanish side to prevent them,
it would be impossible or the French authorities
TO prevent arms and munitions from being slipped
through now and then, and as nearly all the Car
lists have passports from the Madrid government,
1t Is next to impossible to arrest them on French
territory.
But in spite o. this the vigilance OF the French
authorities has been such that few arms or arti-
ces contraband OF war have been passed through,
and 1t is notorious that the principal sup
plies OF arms and munitions OF war,
and especially the cannons which have lately
been received, were landed in little ports on the
Biscayan coast like Berneo and Lequeitio under
the very noses OF the Spanish gunboats. Now,
can 1t In justice be expected that France
should look after Spanish interests with a
sharper eye than the Spanish do themselves,
or tnat they should put stop to all traffic with
the Carlists when the Madrid government itself
does notp Do those people VINO are making so
much noise about French partiallty know what
measures would be necessary TO prevent the
ciandestine Shipment OF arms and ammunition
across the frontier; that it would be necessary to
unload every wagon load OF hay, to break open
every box OF goods, every package of merchandise,
every wine cask, OF which hundreds pass every
day. with Spanish wines for the French growers
or manufacturers; that this would virtually put
stop to trade with the Carlists. and entail the
greatest losses on french trade along the frontier,
besides that 1t would require an army to carry
out such measuresS 1t is very evident that all
the excitement and indignation and clamor
with which Europe has been ringing
this month past, caused by the favor
said to be shown the Carlsts by
the French authorities is altogether uncaned for,
and that it was simply the result OF German mis-
nfofi and
Here have we been expending an lmmes surable
amount OF pity upon the government OF Madrid,
doomed thus to struggle with rebellion aided
and abetted by powerful nelgnhor, and exhaust
Ing our stores OF Indignation upon France, when
it now turns out that the people we have been
plying are the guilty ones, and that 1t was against
them our indignation should nave been directed.
Let this little mistake be borne in mind to serve
as a buffer against the next explosion OF German
indignation about anything concerning France.
HOW TO GET INTO THE CARLIsT COUNTRY.
The diligence leaves Bayonne at midnight for
Pampeluna. You take ticket Tor venta d'Arres,
place about ten miles from Pampeluna,
for which you win pay price varying from
twenty-five to fifty francs, according TO the
humor OF the bookkeeper at Bayonne, and
your own capacity for driving a bargain. He
commences by asking you fifty francs. You
inform him he is mistaken and that the price
is only twenty-five francs, whereupon he viii
come down, acknowledge ne was in error and tell
you 1t is not twenty-five, but forty francs, which
price you will PROBABLY be constrained TO pay, an
less you are gifted with much persuasive force.
AS the diligence leaves Bayonne at midnight
you see nothing OF the road until long after you
have passed the frontier. You only feel that you
are being borne along through the darkness by an
indefinite number OF mules whose shadowy forms
you can barely distinguish as they go clattern9
along over he hard, smooth road before you at a
galop. Alter a while you feel that you are as
cending slowly, but surely, by very crooked, but
good road that zig-zags you back and FORTH like a
monstrous serpent, as 1t gradually lifts you
up the mountain side, and you have a
happy feeling of continually hanging over some
awful precipce or yawnlng chasm-a feeling
which is not in the least decreased by your not De-