New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-08-24
DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE.
SCENES AND INCIDENTS OF A wOMAE's
JOURNEY


SEEKING THE GIBRALTAR or AMKRIcA-fAsriMEs OF
TRAVELLERS LAKE AND RIVER SCENERY - A
GLIMPSE or MONTREAL-OvER TIKI RAPIDS
FIRST VIEW OF A WALLED CITY,
jYRoM AN OCCASIONAL CORREsPosDESTofI THE rHibuShI
QUEBEC. Aug. i'll remember drowsy after
moons at school, when thiste-down driftns IN at tno
window and gently waited from idle boy to ide girl.
had far greater weight with me than the dull lessons
used to pore over the vain attempt TO get them by
beartlessons which refused to be gotten In that way
because there so little heart in the matter sup
pose But for some other the tre sentence,
"Ouebec Is sometimes called the Gibraltar OF
America" found au abidingplace In my brain.
and although I was not at all clear upon CID
raltar itself, Its moro attractive namesake to
which used to "march" with loud and shrili
song at has hal odd fascination for me.
and 1t for every one else. Undoubtedly 1t Is
WEAKNESS OF excessive newness which drives
Americans in armies the Old World, il their ho
days or salaries are limited the oldest towns upon
continent was surprised to feel this united
desire OF my to enjoy all the antiquity
they could nd upon leaving the States 1t was common
ALL though each expressed 1t in different way from
the lumber from Saginaw who watched with silent
mirth melancholy old cross-cut saw, worry through
log while going from one lock to another 10
the welland Canal to the lady who took notes and had
listened patiently for the bell Of St. Regis from the mo-
ment our boat cleared the wharf at Chicago
What an institution" felOwtravelers are during a
weeks journey down the lakes. And how well &C.
quaned people get. and what pleasant exchange OF
cards and takes place before the trip is half
made People crowded together upon one OF our little
propeers find their level readily. unerngly. that
an observing person will doubt Sweden
borg on the doctrine OF congenaity after going from
Chicago to Ogdensburg What but an Instructive feel
ing similarity of tastes should have prompted the tall
man formerly from Berkshire County. Mass to tell the
salow lady from Indiana (whO was taking the trip in
hope Of effectually breaking up the ague that he
going back home marry the girl who had been true to
him-hOw easy thing in Massachusetts, lin spite Of
the base ISLANDERS her friends had heapcd upon him
while out West making his fortune! or course
tho poor lady much shaken with ague,
and IN q sympathetic state, still 1t seemed
odd that he should have shrewdy selected her to con-
de In instead of any other She told other ladies
the whole story aterward and all felt an interest In
him. and was rejoiced. for the girls sake, when
him few days later riding in calash through Quebec
to see that had arrayed himself in suit OF quite
becoming clothes. doubtless a Montreal bargain
But this instance was nothing compared to that Of the
four people who drew euchre decks from their pockets
almost at first sight Of each other. or the girl who
laughed" and the young reporter who wrote on her
fan. All that girl She filed us with varied emotions
She laughed she the plank at Cleveland,
laughed at all the tugs met and which she declared
were "such dear, energetic little bodies-ha ha-ha :"
laughed when her hair blew down. and her pretty
empty face was sunburned to bright pink flor she
ignored hat), and then she disappeared from the
boat she left a peal Of laughter legacy. We
all began by being surprised at her, then
we were awfully bored aud disguised, and
when she had finally left us. all said
"poor creature what wretchedly forced laugh. how
tired she get Of it, II only she would show her
pretty teeth and red lips in some less wearing way"
She going home she said after beng at school three
years.
When she was gone We all felt relieved and set our
selves solemnly TO the duty OF sightseeing In the st.
Lawrence, among whose thousand islands
gliding The afternoon sun sending down slantng
rays when we'll surrounded by them, shining
through boughs. and across grass which wears such
marvellous shade of green The is ndescribably
lovely want keepit selfsnly for SELF unspoiled
by awkward words II could transfer it to in
stead Of paper the temptation would DO strong
but how convey just idea Of the silent, lonely
beauty OF emerald islands that to float around
you far the eye reach on expanse OF bur-
nished sver There everywhere perfect harmony Of
color and form. Even the islands which rise
in rocky from the water robbed Of their look
OF bleakness by friendly mantle OF green which nature
thrown every crevce while their bold strength
is only added to by the tough cvergreeDs which cling
with strained their gray sides. Just at sunset
the steam shut off and painting engines hushed
for a moment that might drift in deep silence
through the intensely beautiful Then shrill
call from the whistle answered by three musical
echoes and we steamed away again. There was life
around us too, for upon several islands we could
bright dresses huttering in the evening breeze and
catch the sound of distant laughter some fishing
party gathered around the campfire before which was
being prepared the substantial enjoyment OF moon.
light picnic.
We left Prescott at 10 o'clock next morning with fair
weather still favorng and the prospect OF the Rapids
txa nnnI,f fan 10
divide up great parts OF the st. Lawrence. and
put the islands into one day and the Rapids
into another The first time made the trip passed
Kingston at daYbreak and consequently had them both
crowded into day. and the result was that instead
OF being fresh for the Rapids the islands had simply
worn us out Everybody knows there is nothing
wearyng looking at pictures. and they are simply
of glorious views, which, while they exalt
and delight, take your strength away through sheer
realization OF them. SO by oil means arrange your
Journey o. traveller you may rest over plight at Pres
colt or Ogdensburg BY noon we were bounding down
the Long Saul and by O'Clock we were looking back
at the frothng, eapng Lachine Rapids You observe
glide as lightly the Rapids as orr boat did, bnt
what is the of talking about hemi 1t the duty OF
every good Amercan-who does not 20 to Parasite 20
down the ST. Lawrence, and OF II they do they
will see for themselves For myself have great
spect for the Rapids, and after get safely through
them admire them greatly stun, while making the iran
were paving my way with cajoling words between Q
high board fence and great black dog who was show
ing me his tee b.
At Montreal we only STAYED long enough to step from
one steamer to another. But left the magnificent
docks the beautiful city stood out in farest detail and
we watched 1t until 1t had grown dim IN the distance
and then entered the cabin. On this boat you leave
America and find yourself IN France-not England. for
the few Engishookng people about you seem quite as
foreign as you do Yourself The dishes set before you
at supper French is the waiter who stands back
OF chair and attends you assiduoIsy and sounms
takably-is the handsome young fellow who sits oppO
site and is with gratitude because yOu allow
HIM TO help you to o dish Of preserved blue berries
land here allow step into parenthesis and say in
speaking of preserves that we are out OF the land OF
canned fruit when get from under the Stars and
6tripes After supper there Is music, though not from
a nne band the Sound steamers. group OF young
Frenchmen gather around the piano, and one after