The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1874-11-28

year. have found Il mons convenient
and advantageous to purchase the trees III
the Fall If this be done, sclectaa eleva-
ted piece Of ground ii the garden or
elsewhere that is dry and where the trees
will bcsecnre from destruction by mice or
stock As soon as the trees are received,
with sharp knife cut Of all diseased and
broken roots and bury the trees in trenches
dug sufficiently deep that the roots may be
below the action of tho frost. By Spring
the cut roots win be nearly healed over
and be ready for throwing out new ones
Immediately after planting. When trees
arc thus purchased and kept they may be
set out very early in the Spring, before
the rush Of work comes on. Another very
imPortantadyantage gained BY the purchase
Of trees in the Fall and burying them is,
they may be taken from the trenches a
few at time, and set out in the orchard
without injury to the roots by the cold
winds. Early planting Of deciduous trees
Is preferable to hate, as they get a start
before the hot dry weather of june sets in.
When ready for planting ill up the holes,
if too deep, with rich surface mould, so
that the tree, when planted, win stand
about two inches deeper in the ground than
when growing in the nursery Trees
seldom do well when planted too deep.
10 setting the tree the heaviest portion Of
She top and branches should front towards
the south and west, leaning the top little
in that direction. By so doing you shade
the body of the tree while young from the
bright sun in Winter. Spread out the
roots and Gil in about them with the hand
the rich surface mould, occasionally shak-
ing the tree little and drawing ii up
ward. This places the roots in their
original position. Press down the earth
gently with the foot, leaving basin or
hollow around the tree and the top of il
leaning to the southwest Cut back
little all the main branches Do not cut
off the little under ones they are of much
importance in shading and protecting the
trunk Of the tree while young A few
oats sprinkled about the roots of the tree
encourage its early growth. When plant
ing put no foreign substances, such as
woods mould or manure, in the hole with
the tree; they do not readily unite with
the natural soil, and should the weather be
dry soon after planting the air passes down
the cracks to the roots and the tree dies.
As soon as the trees for the orchard are
planted the land should be cultivated in
some hoed crop. Potatoes are preferable,
as they do not crowd or smother the
growth of the young tree. They also
leave the land in good condition if it is
well-mannred Should the land be thin,
manure beautifully about the trees the
first two years, being careful not to let the
manure lie against the tree. If it does it
viii rot the bark and kill the tree. In
cultiyating the grow ing crop do not dam
age the trees by knoc king of the bark with
the pillow for the sake of saving hill Of
potatoes-every tree after starting to grow
is worth hundred hills Of pot atoes or
corn. After three or four years Of cult
Walton, the land should be sown in clover
and left to rest, during which time the
young trees will come into bearing. Prune
the trees so as to make low heads, keeping
them evenly balanced and bringing out the
branches horizontally. Never allow them
to grow in forks. In the Spring of the
year, when the ground is soft, the con-
tinued west and south west winds cause
the young trees to lean towards the north
east As soon as discovered the tree
should be strengthened and kept SO by
stalking, otherwise the bark on the upper
side of the leaning tree viii become
diseased the following Winter by the rains
and storms, and eventually cause the tree
to die. Should the orchard site contain
different soils, say parta sandy and gravelly
loan and part heavy limestone clay, plant
the early fruit on the former and the
Winter fruit on the latter Apples grown
on strong eaicareous soils are heavier than
when grown on light soils and they usually
keep better.
Many persons when planting get their
trees so close together that when old they
are run up so high to give them room to
grow it is impossible to gather fruit with
out injuring It. The following approx
mates correct distances for planting trees
on most Ohio soils Standard apple,
twenty-eight to thirty feet apart standard
pear, twenty five TO twenty feet apart
peach trees sixteen feet, Twenty feet is
the most approved distance for peach
trees, aud dwarf pear trees twelve feet
apart. To plant an acre of land at the
aforementioned distances, it win require
the following number of trees twenty
eight feet each way, So; twenty -fiye feet
each way, SO sixteen feet each way, 40;
and twelve feet each way, 335.
Perhaps no definite rule can be given
for the selection Of varieties. Much
depends on the location, soil and climate.
In the same neighborhood the change Of
soil and situation has so much changed the
appearance Of some varieties of apples that
they are scarcely known by the experienced
fruit grower. win name few varieties
that with me have proved the most profta-
bic. For Summer and Fall EARLY Har-
vest, Red Astrachan, Summer Queen,
Sweet Bough, Early Pennock, Lowell,
Jersey Sweet, Shepango, Strawberry,
Primate, St. Lawrence, Maiden's Blush,
Spice Sweet and Fall Pippin. For
Winter Baldwin, Belmont, BellAower,
Grimes Golden Pippin, Hubbardson's
Nouesueh, Red Pearmain, Kyser or Eng
lish Redstreak, Ohio Nonparcil. Jersey