New-York tribune., 1874-08-27
JOVRNEYING INLAND.

JOURNEYING INLAND.
PONIES AND THEIR LISTENING POwERs-wILD AND
DEsOIATE LANDsCAPEs-A LONG AND WEARY
RIDE-BIvOUACKiNG NEAR TIE KINGS PARTY
FORREST OF TREES THREE OR FOUR FEET IN
HIGHT.
[YROM REGULAR CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRIBUNE.l
CAMP AT THE GKYsERs. Aug. SIT was rather
unfortunate that our plan Of travel coincided so
nearly with that of the Kings party To oblge us
to make the Same days journeys, and encamp at the
same places, but, desired to see both the Gey-
sers and the National Festival at Thngvalla there
was no help for it. On Sunday evening" at ReJkiavik,
everybody went out to listen, see sing or dance at
Austurvelli the ponies destined for were grazing
on some distant pasturage and Zoega' who
had undertaken to get us off at 8 o'clock IN
the morning and then do the same thing
for the Royal expedition at l in the afternoon,
groaned under the burden of his anxiety. All went
WELL however. The ebOxes with canned provisions
had been packed on shipboard. under the supervl-
sion of two guides and already adjusted to the
carrying power of tho horses: the tent and other
equipments were also in readiness, and only sad
die here strap there, with extra loose pony or
two. were wanting when we landed. 1t rained by
fits, in checrless way, though group of natives,
bright little daughter to whom he had taught
English during the long Winters, fitted about and
made her first essays as interpreter our energetic
leader blew his whip-whistle from time to time, and
so the caravan finally grew into order
We trotted out of Rejkiavk, a company Of IL men
and 80 ponies There were, first, the seven members
of our party; the steamers cook and second stew
ard detailed by Capt. Howling for our service; and
three Icelanders-Ger, Zoegas nephew, dark-eyed'
intelligent youth of IL Eyvindnr. man OF 80,
whose curling brown hair and dashing horsemanship
gave him almost Mexican air; and the blond, blue
eyed ever-laughng Jon. whose genial temper no
| worries or fatigues could ever touch. The sturdy
ponies white dun or piebald in color, with immense
names and tails, had each and all expression of
great dOcility and intelligence. l pretended to
whisper charm INTO the ear of mine before mount
ing, and the animal actually leaned his head toward
me- listened, and seemed to make an effort to under
| stand.
Before we passed the mound of Austurvelli. the
clouds broke away the broad mountains beyond the
ford shone out in CLEANS of transparent color, and
we were cheered by the promise of fine day.
Driving the laden and tho twelve loose ponies
before u.s. we trotted along the stony prOmontory of
Rejkiavik for about four miles. when the appear
ancc-or prOmise-of highway camo to an end, and
was replaced by half dozen well-beaten bride
paths Below u.s. in bare valley, flashed the Laxa,
or Salmon River, which found to be very rapid and
lev cold when we forded it. A little be-
yond we passed the first farmhouse,
group of five attached buildings, sur
rounded by square of heavy earthen ram
parts This last feature, designed only to keep and
shelter the cattle, gives each b9r pronounced 6ye
like the equivalent Scotch word the appearance OF
little fortress very small garden of potatoes tur-
Col1 IS .f,llt
kept grass land for hay constitute an Icelandc
farm: all else open pasturerange, with OF without
vegetation according to the age of the lava.
1t was eight ten miles through region of stony
hills before reached the second and third farms
beyond which there was no sign of human habita-
ton during the remainder of the days journey.
Wherever the disintegrated rock had been washed
down into the hOllOws grass was growing but the
nights and ridges nOurished little beside thyme,
saxifrage and other low, starved-lOOklng Arctic
plants. My relief in the midst Of this desolaton,
was in looking abroad to the grand lofty ranges of
mountains north, south, and ahead of us. The
intense clearness of the air, as in Colorado
and Ecuador diminished their apparent dis
tance, while the sOftness and purity OF
their tints.revealed it to an experienced eye. In
form they were often extremely beautiful, the abb
rupt outlines produced by volcanic upheaval alter
mating with long level ridges like those of the old
Alleghanies. Grass nowhere seemed to grow above
hight of about 1000 feet, after which the soil
showed coating of silvery moss. Ihave seen land
scapes of the same bare, bleak character in other
parts of the world, but none that so repelled the
efforts of human life to plant itself there
Our ponies knew perfectly well what was required
of them and we had no trouble beyond the shifting
of unevenly balanced packs. The loose animals
sometimes strayed aside, but dash of Eyvindur
and a shout of Ho! ho!" generally recalled them
to the track. We climbed ridge whence there was
backward glimpse of the harbor of Rejkiayik, with
new steamer entering This could be none other
than the Wicklow, chartered by party of English
tourists and due in Iceland before the Sunday cee-
bration. Pushing forwards, we passed two cold
lakes, another windy hight and then descended into
S0ljedal lovely, grassy valley, threaded by wind
ing stream. This is the usual haltng place between
Rejkiavik and Thingvalla because it is nearly half
way and it is the only spot where the ponies can
6faze. We had now been four hours in the saddle.
our legs were chilled from spashng through the icy
streams and rest and refreshment were never well
conner. Dsmounting, we threw our bridle-reins
upon the grass This is a sign to the pony that he
will be wanted anon, and consequently he does not
wander far AVA; ; if the reins are left upon bis
neck he considers himself free to scamper at will.
We all lunched together on the meadow, Jon, Eyvin-
du. and Geir coming up like free to take their
share with u.s. Here, in Iceland the old Gothic
sense of equality manifests itself just as in Spain,
and the stranger who respects it will rarely have
cause to complain of the people. 1t is strange how
the two furthest branches of original race have
retained so many of the same primitive character
istics.
The afternoons ride was monotonous and weary.
We rose out of S6ljedal, skrted an isolated noun
tain and issued upon broad, dreary upland. where
our course was marked, far in advance by high
cairns stnne erected to guide the traveller during