, 1874-06-28


Tears. when wrote OF my sorrow:
When / wrota Of my pleasure, wine.
Il. Il. Stoldard's SoAqs u the Mystics.
The Absence OF the Honnct.
From the Pail Aau Gazette.
The uAme OF the bonnet, NO believe still sur
yires for curi0usly ornament Of the
hair; aud it is possible that, in the female mind
the subtle ways OF which are unsearchable
some kind Of historical unity with respect to the
art1clo has been kept up, 10 that women mag
still imagine that they wear bounets. But al
men unders:and things, bounets have ceased tc
be. 1t il the most complete innovation oi
dress made for many yeRra- We are not ut al
setting up the past against the present. The ex-
listing female fashlon IL always in our judg-
meut. the most charming it is 80 Tor the reason
that it is tho only embellished by actual wesr
Not ono of the old ones has single pair OF
bright eyes or rosy cheeks to recommend it.
Besides. the celestlals surely need not ask those
to whom they show themselves how they are to
appear. II male beholders are justified in any
duplication OF critical klpd it il when they ask
that women should reveal. not hide, their faces +;
and in leaving off the bonnet the sa1 has gone
to the full limit u that point Of their attire.
No woman in England now concenls single
feature. Forehead, cheeks. dimpled or un-
dimpled cllins, ear-tlpB, all are visible.
In speaking OF the change OF appearance
caused by the absence Of the bon net, we know
better than to be critical We arc dealing With it
spectfui "Reminiscences. First Of al it undoubt-
edly does away with striking difference
previously observed between the indoor and
outdoor look Of women. A bonnet more or less
transformed the wearer; i'll some Cases ihat a.
terstion it made was inexplicably great. Tie
change might not always be advantageous, at
times it was decidedly 20; but in every case
there was a change OF some sort and de-
gree. This is clean gone. Now We soe
women, indoors and outdoors, with just
the same san pty Of Sat E1 - and t shaG s
tile light possible to fail upon it. It is true,
other parts Of dress in the Same way are becom-
inS modified For somo seasons past feminine
drape1y has been growing less and less conceal
ing. Our Htreets PROMISE to show us crowds OF
ladies' as little rotlcent OF tho principal lines OF
tho feminine contour aB in the secluB.on Of home.
Every year the ceieatials become kinder, increas-
ingly revealing themselves to casual behulderH.
Men have never yet faced the streets with wholly
uncovered visage. The natrowess OF hat~brims
las always cast q little modest shadow on the
masculine features. No doubt, the ladies will
say the creature il bold to show his face at all
but our present topic ia bonness, aud We must
keep to it.
bonnete, during the vogue OF some styles, used
to produce wonderful effects On the complexion
OF the wearors. Softened CLEANS Of reflected
light, faint tinta OF welcome color, not seen
when the face Was no longur within the bonnet,
trembed there so long as it mas observed In that
conjunction. 1llstaRes were 1eat1al, We admle;
AZ umes choehs glo"ea IKE sulises OF tarnea
WIS done Que may not pretend to know. We
fancy ne heaIo something aoont SIX 81 ana satin
In!ngs; but these are high mysteries. Then. be-
sides being in that way positive resource
OF tne toilet, nonnes, W1tnln tue limits G1 man
wearing. A face conscious of it's attractiveness
conld Lewitcbiugly balk the gaze, or else cut the
vlsioD at almost any seiectad stags of incom-
pleteness. Dy Means y! tue oo4lo1 = "o"hu
cou!o raIy tne pfon.e ~ WOW ant9usu selaes "
moonllke pnaees, the ooatmlng VISION oosea5lng
auo ecnpSing slo"1y: Aouf ooquestish lauy
knew to hali az inch Tue exact set OF
tue head leqnlroa IN each n.; case II " wss 80
necessary feminine accompaniment Az this
u over. Tue tantahzlng persistence OF the
connet "n!en ~ou.a not s.t1n % 10 eige .ne oI-
one is gone; male artihce is no longer needed
to obtain full inspection. beauty once across
the threshold can no longer Wllfuliy hide. The
face, no matter how ta1r. ls there Tor al to see
and for all to see all OF it,. A beautiful faco
hidden inside bonnet gave the Under q sense
Of personal and exclusive discovery. This en-
joy1nent no man can now have. Extreme bon
nets there were at some porous which MADE dis
coyery Impossible; the range OF the human
vision Was not snihclent to ascertain "ha1 really
was at tue far end OF them. But extremes mag
fairly be omitted from observation
What il noW woEn-we must not say In the
place 81 the bonnet but in part Of the place Of
The bonnet-ls; st. then, 40 e1asgerated ornament t
bonnet is that 1t modiiies the face; whatever va
riations fashion takes it through. It must keep
soma power OF affecting the Light and shade on |
.ne featufea- SO BOON aB what ls worn dlmlu- |
shes to degree which prevents this, or is !
wholly removed from viciuage to the oounteu- |
.nce, the male intellect. at any rate, |
:equires that it should take another
,aine. It has ceased to be bonnet. |
What is at present worn llaB no relation to !
he face-ils obvious purpose is to display the !
lair. This Ia not merely another purpose it !
8 something contrary. The hair is a chazac- |
eristic female charm which until recently it
yas long standing English custom not fully |
o display. It WAS an indoor disclosure. |
greatly restrained there. Now d good deal !
more than every inch OF it il osteutatiously |
exposed to the public gaze. For thai has
,anpened which moments thought is
nough to show WAS inevitabie. The hair is
harm in winch women are very unequally I
ndowed but 1t is also one in which ded-
iencles can be most easly rectiied. Under the