, 1874-03-08
Hats and Bonnets- Forty Varieties in FASH
ion-DeUildering Beauty and De-
formity in Pfofasion.
Flowers Of Exquisite Design--Trim-
mings Running Riot.
The Discomfortof Long Pendants.
A. Diversity OF Chips.

: world. Many persons, though not belonging I
: the Lent~keeping faiths, have been in the ha5
OF abandoning large entertainments during til
time. THIS season, however, they have paid II
attention to theologic regulations, and dcclar
themselves unable to discover any falling
of in attendance upon their gather
ings. The truth is; that, in Gotham
denominatloual boundaries are very faint. You
intimate friends are more than lilsely to be OF
different religions creed from your own an
you will, probably. be less we'll acquainte
with the members OF the congregation you be
long to than with those OF half-adozen othe
churches. And, therefore, you zee Lent reall
makes little change in social life, though it i
supposed TO put sort OF quietus on all kind
| Of amuecments.
OF course, apring-c1othes are ag;tating TIL
souls OF the feminine Alanhattanese. TIL
almanac already declares spring to be here
but we who are wiser than the almanac, know
spring begins on Easter Sundny,-neyor ear
1ier,--and that, it tint day be exceptionally
stormy, little later. Easter comes on the 5tl
OF April; On the 5th OF April the metropolitan
spring begins.
are naturally the first consideration in season
able alterations OF toilette. It is perhaps, eren
more OF 8 polite fiction than it has been for
some time to denominate the new head-coyer-
iugs by this ancient and respectable title. The
CROWNS are bigger, to be sure; but what they
| make up in crown they lack elsewhere. The
atrings are the berry-mark you know q
bonnet by when you see it and not seldom
what, from reason Of its having no strings, you
are promo to regard as hat, you aro expected to
| recognize as bonnet also. The fact is, il you
| pay your money yon are Ut perfect liberty to
| call your head-pece whatever you think best
! suited to your years and style. There seems
not to be much change in shape, though We are
| informed that forty Distinct and entirely-noyel
| forms are in tle market ut this momcnt,-it
| might be added forty distinctive forms Of nm
| becomingness- am more and more convinced,
as tmo passes. that this is the age OF martyrs.
| To the sympathetic observer, thore.is something
I sublime-or step from tin tue manner i'll
which women. brought up as dev0tees to the
shrine of Mode. will boldly assume 8 garb or
thnt it is u1becoming,- HE them forth to
challenge adverse criticism. all ID tho
name Of Fashion. Who says the women
OF to-day arc not cast in heroic mold They
will be severely tested in the coming months:
but nm confident they will pass the ordeal
without shrinking.
THE NEW STYLES
number, among others, varieties Of the Direc-
toire. Rabagas, aud Charlotte Corday or Al
aacienne caps. aud d few Gipsy shapes that in
whose brims turn up in trout and down behind;
up behind md down in trout; up on both s,des
and down front and back; down on the sides
aud up front and back. Some are pointed in
front and round beh1nd, while others reverse the
order.
Which ia the favorite !? Nobody dare prophecy
yet though I make bold to think the pretty
Msacicnne caps. with chip rims and soft SILK
crowns, will be tho most generally adapted to the
typical American face.
hare almost wholly superseded made (sillz) hats,
aud arc infinitely more becoming aud cconom-
ical. II is almost as easy to match costume in
straw as in silk, especially when more than one
liable to be spotted with dampness, to fade and
''muss - while straw though slightly open to
tho FIRST two objections, will generally last q
season in very crcditabla condition. The chip
desired, though Hundry soft new braids arc
very beautiful and less expensive. Chip, in the
as bonnet-fabr1cs; and, though the bceehed
chips miDg1e ezquisitely with the pale-tiutcd
trimmings. the white is so dead shade as to be
ill-adapted to most complexions. The ecrn or
rnbleached chips are moro becoming, but eyen |
more fragile, than the white ones; aud, IS thoy !
are costlier than other strawa in the beginning, |
they are in the end, the most expensive of sum-
mer-hats.
Leghorns, both in wide -briInrnod 'fats :" and !
bonnets, promise to be well worn. Cerlain Ia |
Dies not too devoted to Fashion, wear them year.
ly. whether they happen to be Sin :" o. j" out"
Lcghorns arc: probably: the most durable and
among the highor-priced, arc not 80
ultimate good. Tue black chips will, in meas
ure. do away with tulle hats, particularly when
The only laces that will be strictly fashionable
for bonnetmaking are, alas! jet-sprinkled.
Many Of the t11lles have light jet pendants bu-
giles, and loops OF fine strung beads, hanging
from the surface, Tie effect is naturally very
brilliant; but, whore there is such profusion
OF beads, one does miss the moccasins and other
Indian accoutrements.
THE FLOWERS
are lovely. Pardon tho adjective. It has q
Eushing sound; bnt, if ono only gushes over
lowers aud feathers, and lace, certainly so
mild a feast Of adjective may be- to1er-
ated. Besides, the flowers are lovely. The
lealers say they nre; SO do the buyers. Those
aud hollyhock- blossoms Of three |
Or four seasons back, are all gone. In their
Tor it, for fine flowers are never cheap} OF
7iolcts, daisies, hawthorn. roses Of all 1ues.
heath, l1acs, elder, arbutus, i1ies-ot-
:he-valIey. white and red clover, helotrope,
ong-stemmed white violeta, deutzia, butter
:upB, blue-eyed grass, periwinklo, ivy, myrtle
erns aud fern-troads. and such wilderness of
,thers as cannot tell you Of. One says, every
rear, - Can tho art Of artificial -noweT-making
20 further than it has 2" And every year one secs
l1e advance to perfcctness. THERE'S little cxcuso
or decorating gowns with uuslin blossoms
shen they are 80 nearly the 1ivlls Of Natures
york.
The novelties in flowers are principally in the
coloring Of some Of tho roses.
They are maroon, claret, blue, green yio1et,
'rown, and gray, not to mention certain shades |
II yellow, the like Of which wasnevor seen in a
Roses are, and blve long been.
he favorito artificial flower; bu: that is no ap-
'arent reason why, in order to render them new, ,
hey. should be madeas unlike th.ir growing pro- (
otyres ns possible. There are two moro trif1ing
aricgations Of old rules. Mott OF the roses,
nd many other single blossoms, are fastened {
o long flexible stems, instead Of being
uncled together in solid and inartistic
1asscs: The effect produced bytheso trembling
pzays is much prettier and mors graceful than {
hat OF the great parterres, which the Mode has
ictated heretofore. Each blossom is seen to ad- ]
autage and made the most OF n this way; and j
lree or four, or at most half-a-lozen buds will t
eem more than double hanlful in the old | /
lethod. The fancy is for mingiug two sorts OF
overs in the same group-snh as hawthorn | 1
nd wild roses purple violets a1d daisies, white +