The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1874-06-26
An American lady in England.
OF THE BY-wAYs OF TRAVEL.
RowsLY, DERBY Co.. Eng, /
.June 9Th 1874

RowsLY, DERBY Co.. ENG,
June Sth, 1874.
To the Editor of the Press:
Never believe you know anything of place
by reading about it, not if you have gone
through library OF guide-books We have
been having few delightful days at Chester,
the city founded by the Romans about the
year 73. l despair of giving you an idea of
its -qnaintness, hut you may guess at the
pleasures crowded into one bright day, in
which we climbed from the wall which sur
rounds the ancient city, to the water tower
built for defence in 1922, looked out from
that other tower on which Charles the First
stood, and saw his army defeated on Marston
Moor, explored the Cathedral (ouilt as is sup
posed on the site of the old Roman temple TO
Apollo. and dating back to the 14th century,
saw the yeomanry cavalry exercise on the IA
nous race-course called the Roodeye, and
drove and walked through Eaton Park gar
dens. the magnificent seat of the Marquis of
Westminster. There, for :he first time, we
saw real English lawn, and such oaks as
we have dreamed of since the days when we
read,
NThe royal oak, 1t was the tree
That saved his royal Majesty
1t would seem that his majesty and half his
court could find Judgement in the branches
of one of these grand trees. The hall
itself, is being remodelled. and we had only
glimpses of the interior, but 1 don't
think we cared. 1t was enough for
one day to feast ON those marvellous views
which opened at every turn, and to stroll
through the conservatories, and gardens Wa
saw rlpening in the various hot houses, straw
berries, grapes, figs, oranges, bananas, mel
ons and pine apples, and we were almost
faint with the perfume of a thous and flowers.
Later in the day, we walked in Chester to
look at the yacht inn, Dean Swift's favorite
hostelre and stopped to read on curiously
carved house, the inscription, s'God's provi-
dence is mine inheritance. Walking back
to our hotel, we looked into "God's stall
lane," and we should not have been surprised
ifthat famous old soldier in Crolnwelrs army,
''Prase-God Rare Tones,'' had sent in his
card. Indeed so wonderfully old is every inani-
mate thingi in the town, that youthful human
ity seemed quite out of place.
From Chester we rode through the lovely
country towns to this little hamlet of some
20 houses mostly matched with straw
though built of enduring stone. There we
are guests at the Peacock inn, and the stately
bird over the door looks down critically at us,
as ifthe spread-eagle of Yankee. dom showed
itself in our very faces. The Derwent river
respectable brook, runs through the gar
den, and anglers find great sport in its waters,
at half crown day. This village IS part
Of the Duke of Rutland's estate. Chatsworth
the most remarkable place in England, the
property Of the Duke Of Devonshire, is little
more than miles distant, and it was our
privilege on Saturday last, to see such of Its
splendors and beauties as "outside barba-
rians" may. We drove several miles through
a park too grand AMI beautiful for description
and had look at the town where Mary
Queen of Scots, spent 13 dreary years
at the grand gates of the castle we were met
by servant in livery and escorted to the
door, where pretty, modest woman took us
in charge. We passed through long galleries
and apartments filed with rare and costly
works of art. In one room are the corona
ton chairs of George Ill and his queen, and
in another, those of William ". and Queen
Adelaide. There is some exquisite gobelin
tapestry. and rich hangngs of stamped leath
er. In the gallery of sculpture it was pleas
ant TO see the classic head of Edward Everett
done in marble, by Hiram Powers. II did
not suffer by comparison with any others in
the rom.
Having seen all we were permitted, we
passed out Of the house into the gar0ens.
Here art so closely copies nature, that you
are not willing to believe your own eyes.
There are rocks, caves, waterfalls and lovely
fabyrinths, a tree which attracts by its pecul-
lar foliage and which, as you look, is trans
formed into fountain, "a weeping willow"
as the guide described ii, sending out streams
of water from every branch and twig. The
numerous herds of deer and the flocks OF
sheep attracted our notice as much as any
thing. 1t is said there are about 5000 deer IN
the Park. One day of sightseeing endec at
Ha ldon Hail. The grand old castle which was
new in William the Conquerors time, but
which has not been used as residence for
10 wears. There we saw how our English
ancestors lived. hoped they enjoyed it.
The castle is well preserved and most curl