National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-04-21

THE NATIONAL REP
Ipart Of dressy, outdoor toilet, q the fun ruf
requires soirsthing Different from the cravat
The finest run b Of crspe-lIese, In son. ful
pleats, with black chenille dots on the edge
(which soften the erect. The latest dresses,
however, IS well as bonnets, have soft, snowy
puffs Of crepe-.sr lovlier than the pleatings
The aimsiest ruches garnitsss, suitable fol
Il THE LIsHrEsr or TOILETS,
with morning or street. dress, when more opaque
Icrepe or sheer lawn should be chosen. The
newest morning wear for the neck 10 collar Of
this lawn in full pleats at the back with turn
down corners, larger than the similar style Of
last year. The standing, faring collar and cuffs
are fastened with links and drops In dall silver
or French gilt, and these drops take fauciful
forms Of shells and bells, Is well as the prettiesl
plain balls. These are In place when the ruff
OF the dress will mot allow q cravat to be worn.
But gloves and necktie must be the exact shade
ofthe dress. Hence, olive, chestnut and wood
colors, all shades Of light-grsy, cream and ecru
are the stylish colors for these accessories.
Ties Of creamy India silk and Grape with EN-
broidered ends, finished with blackthread lace,
are very refined for house dresses, and there
are simpler ones of sheer lawn with ends of
colored silk.
New lingerie comprises sets Of batiste In
shades like the dress linens, and suits Of ecru,
brown, gray, dark blue, and cheviot wash
goods, have collar, cuffs, and handkerchief to
match. Gray and ecru borders are not as
pretty az the colored pongees of last season,
nor as the rose-colored and sky-blue linens we
hear of from Paris. Fancy borders are barred
with fashionable dark colors, Japanese earth,
dark blue and brown, but are not attractive.
4 black velvet belt, rnbroided In steel or Jet
beads, with velvet aumoniere, attached by
straps Of velvet, Is worn in place of the jointed
belt and It's manifold statements of last year.
These are replaced as occasion demands-the
umbrella for cloudy weather, and long fan
chain for the house. Plain dark belts of fine
leather, with
HEAVY SILVER BUCKLE
Of simple form, are worn for travelling, but
the Moorish and Norman fantasies in buckles
are no more. Light oxydlEed silver Is chosen
for metal trimmings, and the invention re-
pressed as to belts breaks out in umbrellas.
These are dark blue, black and dark brown,
with handles of conyenient size in old silver,
tortoise shell, and unpublished ebony, carved
In variety Of designs, hardly two alike; NAL
tese crosses, lions and satyrs' heads, medal
lions, and the new sabre handle which Is easier
to keep hold Of than the straight one. Large
umbrellas for gentlemen are mounted in fine
brass and gold plated. 1-'t"1
The choicest dresses for the opening season
are the csmels' hair chale or shawl-cloth, fine
of India shawls, at to rank with real grapes
and damasks ofthe East. Ea u n
I Its colors arc the light grays and browns Of
the fleece, which, make admirable grounds for
embroidery in the rich sobricty Of orig, 81 de-
signs, whose tints Of olive, ash-gray, and brown
are more sumptuous than brighter hues. The
soft white cloth Is made into polonaises for
high toilet and dolmans or ball cloaks. Il is
expensive, costing IS yard, but there are
basket and diagonal camels' hair, fifty -four in
ches wide, from SO to 81. The plain camels'
hair and the light twflls for summer use afford
very desirable wear in this country of sudden
chills and east winds in the heat of July.
Cheaper worsted grenadins and grenadine de
bege is even more largely sold than linens for
next season. Last summer was so cold and
damp that people take warning for the next,
especially as the years seem to hunt in couples,
as far as weather is concerned. The
POPULAR SUMMER MATERIALS
are mostly of wool and silk lightly woven. |
''Granite" and de bege will hardly be laid aside
for street and travelling dress the season
through, except a. the South. A new fancy is |
the sash in Roman colors, woven with do bege |
patterns, which will give q lively touch to |
plain gray and brown suits for young ladies. |
Black slpacas AMI brilliantines are put aside |
for these fine gray goods. All the old favorites |
-pongee, silk serge, and summer poplin-come |
in lustrous silvery gray and drab, with finer |
finish than ever, but st low prices, averaging
81 q yard.
In silk goods, Mexicaine, initiating native
cloths worn in the far South, is odd and ele- |
CANT, resembling tapes woven In open cross
bars It Is for polonaises, and comes in white,
ecru, cream and dark colors, TO be trimmed |
with silk guipure of antique pattern, in the
same shades. For evening dress the beautiful /
mousseline dc sole, or silk muslin, finest and
clesrest of tissues without lustre, will be the |
choice material, either. plain or in white
grounds, with satin stripes Of softest straw
color, sky blue, Nile green, and rose, brocaded !
with large single flowers In natural color. 3D.
perb brocaded grenadines, in antique patterns |
are shown, and tissues In dark fashionable I
colors, with pongee stripes and polka dots of /
darker shade, positively the last appearance Of
ha Act fapo IF lac -
vas grenadines, damasked in large Venitian
figures, that were worn twenty years ago, are
again in style for elderly ladies. These large
figured goods are worn as polonaises over plain
skirts. fF
New cashmere polonaises are embroidered in
satin stitch, lightly but effectively beaded with
jet, the cloth cut away I'm corner pieces, and |
the space filed with network In tricot. Polo
naises Of black and Of white guipure are
shown, anticipating the midsummer races.
And how to make these new and various
fabrics In the latest style. Skirts with close
fronts alternately in shirred paffs and box
pleats are novel, with the fullness of the demi-
train laid in Spanish founce at the back, an
overskirt like $40 saHtE-a
TWO sHAwLs DRAPzD
from one hip 10 the other behini, and easy
fitting basque, long In front, short and slashed
behind with one seam in the back. For the
street the skirt touches the ground, with two
graduated iounces, shirred or inside pleatfngs
which with their headings cover third of its
length. The Greek overskirt, open and straight
on the side, caught up to the other with square
back drapery, is In favor, as well as the wide
pointed apron. A third overskirt is two long
widths, not sewed, but faced and closed with
silk bows or large buttons two-thirds their