New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-03-28
THE FASHIONS.
OPENING DAYS,


OPENING DAYS. .t..
LATEST INNOVATIONS or HATS AND BoSNErs-
TRIMMINGS AND FLowERs-THE ARTIFICIAL
YLoRA-PARIsIAN MODELS IN TOHETs-sUMaER
FABRICs-PARUREs, GLOVES, AND JEwELRf.
The very capriciOus weather of tins month
has materially affected many openings The latest expo
sons Of fresh importations in the way OF Partisan NIL
hnery flowers India shawls, and costumes have, how
ever, been finally revealed to the anxious gaze this
week Society with inefabe sigh Of satisfaction,
comprehends az hast what 10 wear and when, where,
and how to IT, Bonnets claim the frst attention.
as the apex TO the elaborate pyramid From the FAR
famed houses of Mantel and fTherese, Magner, Vrot
and GrouI whose magic names alone stamp perfection
Q bonnet, come the oldest, quaintest tnnPe
imaginablethe high, aristocrac Castian bat like the
Peak Of Tenerfe, with rather more tsbe-land np0n
broader summit conica as 1t is coquetsh as Deaut
full as it 10 bizarre and dear as 1t 10 cheap; the
Rabagas enlarged, the superb Dlrectoire, ana the
dainty, softcrowned, pretty Charlotte Corday. There
u.s. naturally, Medici to with the stn Medci eos
tunes into which to be ineased as in stihes
armor This Medci is a hybrid mixture OF hat and bon
net Tennyson's Nose OF Lynette last year. inspired
the mOdistes and had tp-tilted Lynettes;" this
the pretty will appear beneath var
styles OF saucy Gpses, but 1t must be understood
that the broadbrmmed Gypsy or Charles III. nat,
with wide, graceful bruins, turned up with such
rustic flowers described below, is not for the Sc
we're Roman, or Greek, learned aquilIne-only the
pretty tiptted" or retroussg Exquisite sim
plicty combined with richness in the bonnets OF Vrot
the trimming less compact and there is prouson OF
gracefully arranged drapery quite az necessary TO
q bonnet rs calls to ship.
To describe few models gray chip had low crown
encirced BY loose twisted roll Of gray turquoise SIX
another smaller roll passed arOundhe brim each oil the
two silk folds being edged with narrow, closeycured
gray ostrich feather fringe; laid in long rows nom
crown to brm we're fine wreaths Of purple volets, end
ing behind in full cluster Of gray bows OF SIX, ostrich
tips and vioets Castlian hat was OF black, hne emp
turned up in the bolero STYLE the crown enveloped In
black fae scarf knOted in front OF the brm, disclosing
scarlet borders behind half wreath OF scarlet poppies
of wheat field daisies, and buds. Another lot
Of snowy chip WAS mass of fine field flowers, satin'
goldeneyed Margnertes wild roses and ferns; long
scarf OF black thread lace made in cascade at the back
fell orsade Of black velvet and fall green tnr-
quose. hat OF charming grace was entirely composed
OF black jetbeaded net black tue ruche inside the
brm edged with Jet and bows Of the same envelopln2
a mass OF delicate immortees; thisfor grade OF
light mourning. Another Of black chip with the chip
plated cape feature of these new hats, descended
considerably at the back, half covered ny scarf OF
black lace at the side and passing around the crown
was a wreath Of cherry blossoms and blue forset-me-
nots Some OF the black lace hats are covered with
gitterng Of cut Jet beads small bugles and large
sprays OF fine jet flowers. An English straw hat had
wide brim bent low in 'front.' curled high at the sides,
and falling in plated straw cape behind AT the left
ear lovely tea rose fastened long loops Of maize
coored ribbon on top OF the and at the back with
dark red peoples ana dusky foliage. very dtStngue
hat Of leeho turned up at the back deep at the
ears trimmed with pale olive and maize ribbon, and a
cluster OF large Marguerites, buds and foliage.
The latest impOrtations of flowers are very beautiful
faithful to Mother Earth herself for indebted to
md SNl M
for perfectly preserved natural twigs, grasses buds.
heath and NOSES We cannot regret the charming ex
otcs o the conservatory while closely examining the
garands wreaths composed OF such flowers as one
IL ght gather in some oldfashoned country garden.
fragrant with homey herbs and simpes, or by coun-
try brook in the depths Of tangled dell, or In the
shadow OF cool woodlands, whence the artistes have
gathered rustic blossoms for their perfect mita-
tion These garands form style; the other il OF
bouquets for pOmpOns Of lOngsemmed flowers, as, for
example the creamy pyramda spikes OF horseehestnut
with stem two of lily OF the valley hyacinth, Iacs,
and roses and buds cat with long stems With these
upr ght bouquets sometimes mingled wisps OF straw,
wheat ears aud nodding harebes With all the great
prouson varied buds and blossoms, roses rank SUI
preme as favorites one finds them everywhere from
the humbes sweet brier and sweet wild rose the dain-
test tea great crushed pink roses creamy Pro-
vence with blush at its heart the deep red Jacque
mirot rose rich crimson and the York and Lancaster
roses the queen or all roses half hduen in It's rlch,
messy vailing-the moss rose.
While the flowers grace the bonnets In careless uxurl-
ance, the other trimming is mostly arranged in COM
pact form. Soft, twled bias silk is rolled 10 graceful
loose twist around the and simply fastened be-
hind in fiat bow without ends. In 'front.' sometimes
there is fanke rOsete large AIsatian bow, such
as were worn last season. becoming addition 10 the
edges of bonnets is narrow fine plating OF trans
parent muslin crepe sse thicker white Grape
tna layynn fharf
trimming also becoming is full doubled ruie puff
ing Of intermxed velvet and silk. Simple black chip
and black English straw bonnets are Frightened by
gimp Jet sewed directly the edge and all black lace
bounets are thcky besprnkled with small cut jet beads
The most diStHguG bonnets of black lace black chip
without color, simply being trimmed with sprays Of
finest white hawthorne or coronet garland OF lilies of
the valley perhaps with cluster OF white crushed
roses The latest fashion for walls is return OF the
mask vail year two ago. dotted and fringed
with jet The return OF the mask vail Is TO be deporod
as peculiarly unbecoming and deformng what il ought
to deck it be hoped another caprice may bring
the graceful lace drapery becoming to all faces Bugle
net comes for making up into bonnets. This is black
Brussels net thcky covered with jet bugles left hang
ing singy another style has the lace covered with little
loops Of cut jet beads and yet another more elaborate
comes embroidered patterns with jet on crown, front.
brm and separate strips for trimming. These made
over frame simply another way is after making up to
cover the bonnet with light cloud OF black tulle
Through this the jets are distinctly seen
1t very evident from the Partisan models that black
silk is the fashionable and standard material for all
occasions where full dress is not required There very
little real grace displayed in these costumes but
deal of stately elegance and quaint style The greater
portion OF the French dresses made with basques
and oyerskrts, fashion particularly affected by Par
isans, although Americans generally prefer
the poonaise. Jet fringes beaded gimps and
black thread lace form the ornamentation
An immense variety Of styles and is IN the
waists emanatng lfrom tile prolific brain OF Worth who
without regard 10 figure, costumes all alike In the
BASQUE, narrow backed, and short high-shouldered