Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-07-01

Il
THE FASHION OF THE HOUR.
| Dress may now be considered to be divided
| IN an arbitrary manner into dress costumes for
the street, full dress toilettes for the drawing
room, and negligs for the house.
| Inc He0itge costumeS-for neOli9e Is now Hea-
| ven save the mark, a costune-consist OF comhi-
nations OF all styles and made up In every dis
eoversble fabric. Two different colors, the
| darkest being used for trimming, the hasque
the ruching and the lining of the nounces 4.
/ grdRec aods, as is also the use of a striped with
plain fabric, the plain material being NOR
| profusely used than the striped. The dark strio
| IN that goods furnishes, as during the winter
| me trimming Of the trimmings, the lining OF the
heading OF the fOunces, bas ques, SC.
| TAKE for instance a navy blue foulard. This
| You tim with three gathered hounces aud bind
| them with striped navy blue and white foulard
AT the head OF each hounce is a striped lining
| turned back and laid over like fan at inter
/ Vas and confined by medium-sized button
| covered with the plain material. Iour over
sklrt must be Of the striped foulard. Your fronts
l are separate from the back breadths, which are
very long and draped in a double pouf. The
i basque waist OF striped foulard opens over a
| ong square vest OF the plain foulard closed with
large buttons covered with the plain foulard
Ii IL optional with the wearer TO use large white
mother Of pearl buttons In front the basd ne Il
very long; Inc sleeves are OF plain foulsrd with
| the plain material.
| ior the drawing room. Some combinations OF
| this kind give singular effects; such, for in
/ stance, as bronze faille with white silk gauze
Il tne ialle appearing in the skirt, while the
| gauze composes the overskirt and the trimmings
| OF the skirt itself White silk gauze aud ali
| Kinds OF transparent goods including the "can-
| goods. eminently suited for beading aud en-
bIoidering, and, in point OF fact fabricated
| with that aim, will reign predominant. Faille
| and foulard Of neutral shades, notably ash
| gray, pinkish gray, greenish, yelowisS and
/ olulsh gray, with 'ashes OF roses" and Smoked
pearl tints, are also in high favor. as well a. q
new color which resem bes the shsde OF rasp-
Derry juice that d as mingled with cream ia a
saucer, and which is called fruit FAM.
| great many new fabrics have been issued,
ne distinguishing feature OF which is tn at they
are composed of two sections, plain material
being intended for the skirt, and striped OF
IDENTICAL color, for the overskirt aud sleeveless
basque waist, or for polonaise II preferred,
/ the coat sleeves being OF the plain fabric All
goods that are decidedly new for street costume,
rom alpaca TO the richest silk-except OF course
black silk-otfer this new feature, and even i'm
black combined with white, this novel effect Is
70 be found.
TRAVELLING COSTUMES.
travelling costumes are made without any
oyerskirts, both because OF their being cooler
ana less cumbersome when so made, aud be-
cause il Is just as well for a costume of that sort
70 simulate the overskirt in the trimming, as IL
is less expensive TO get up, or as the phrase now
ts, TO 6gad such dress without an overskirt
than with one.
Light batiste de laine of two shades OF gray
makes an exceedingly pretty travelling suit
when disposed as follows; Tie skirt is round
and short enough TO clear the ground without
any possibility Of an inconvenient sweep. The
tablier is garnshed by fiat fold alternately light
and dark. The end Of each fold is cut in.o q
triangle, in which long button hole is worked
without being cut, with dark silk on the light
and light silk on the dark material. On each
OF these large mother of pearl button is sewed
The other breadths are trimmed with flounces
That are alternately light dark. These
LOUNGES are intersected by a simulated
oyerskirt formed by light tounce that is head
ed by dark bias fold. A light waist opens
over dark vest A small rounded shawl, with
very long ends, scalloped On the edge with dark
gray wool, fs thrown over the shoulders aud tied
once in front, the ends being thrown backward
over the back. Gray, OF two shades, is the only
color except beige, that is admissible for tray-
cling costumes. In that peculiar color they are
70 be seen already very stylishly ''buIlt." Some
ton OF taste whether il be suitable 70 embroider
travelling costumes or whether il be not best 10
dispense with embroidery on such dresses.
pink, blue and lilac striped Oxford linen are
worn. These have yoked collars, under sleeves
with deep cuffs and b,soms like those OF gem
coral buttons TO close them, and bius or aray
steel. These bosoms are worn under open
waists ike a vest. in sultry weather.
wrapping which should accompany ali
travelling costumes is the new gossamer wateS-
proof.
BATHING DRESSES
are very sensible, modest and convenient
and so low in pr.ce that there is no excuse FOR a
lady who spends ever so short a period at the
seaside, not having one Of her own. The suit
consists, as usual, of trowsers and blouse, but
the blouse is cut long, belted in broad and firmly
At the waist, and together with the trowsers
forms neat and perfectly protective costume.
Gray flannel or dark blue m9rreen-which lat
ter sheds wster-are the materials in demand
trimmed with white, black, or black and white
braid. The cost is from - 30 to 40. A very
can be purchased for SIS. The shoes cost a dollar
more the white cocoa hat twenty-five cents.
ITEMS OF FASHION.
ich phra{A hsoh a.. n
be greatly worn, has indeed proved a success.
1t is used this season upon all fabrics except
thick silk, which, of course. little worn during
the heated term, and Is q favorte on plain fou-
lard and on faiile. On silk and on wool IL is
worked in silk-as on thick silk during the win
ter-and on cotton it is worked in cotton. 1t
must be OF the same shade as the Ornamental
1t predicted by leaders OF fashion, thatover-
skirts OF the light kind Of crepe de chine-and
there lie newer ana lighter style Of even so light
a material-wil be worn over black velvet
skirts.
The handsomest glove is OF Swedish or ssxony
KID, white, and made very long. In the day
time this will be worn with all light dresses.
They soil very easily anG require to be changed
very often. White thread gloves are used for
Very wide scarfs OF China crepe and of silk
gauZe, well a. of various other Transparent
materials take the place of oyerskirts by being
draped in similar manner anc tied at the back
or side.
BARGAINS.
1t is season for the qualification Of Mrs. Too
dies ruling passion 10 an unlimited extent
Materials and made up garments hsve never
been offered at anything like their present price
since the war. Polonaises, plain and embIoIG-
cred, of linen, batiste, goats hair and crOise
cloth are offered for less than the materials
could be bought and the labor paid for. Lovely
material fabrics, choice articles for use and
ornament, are labelled at less than halt the
Price asked for them six weeks ago.
JENNIE JUNE.
TRANSPORTATION In lieu Of mileage for
officers of the army and their baggage, when
travelling on duty under orders without troops.
escorts, or supplies, and the travelling expenses
of Paymasters' clerks, during the fiscal year
commencing July 1, 1874, win, In accordance
with the act Of j. ne 16, 1874, making appropri-
ati0ns for the support Of the army, be confined |
TO "actual travelling expenses" usual and essen |
tial to the ordinary comfort Of travellers, which
viii embrace items OF expenditure set forth In |
general orders No. 90, just issued from the War
department. The same rules and allowances |
FOR transportation will be applicable TO all /
civilian employees Of the army when travelling
under orders from competent authority in the |
execution Of their legitimate duties, and to /
civilian witnesses in the EMPLOY Of the United