The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1874-04-19

| !0ward the ieit where 1t forms very deer rosn.
yo1n I'D " me drapery, at the right ths sds i,
the oppos,te All. aaa sasn, which proceeds IRON
mou n oanargo" pun, anlle back OF the no,nr,
SIDE paiIs whcn enc 10, oaek iais deep aud square 10
elaborate 10 eject It IS, nevertheIess 1ui, Wits
10 arrange one only unaerstauas ,na sianpis
and viii get ''reliaolen pattern on ~ 'no now
me KID glove trade mas Increased enormo,o, -
iate years, over 100000 OF this class O, oo,a,
This country seems TO use the best u \ a aaiay.
IN greater quantities than do the people OF srn
first class kid gloves, but the trade has 81 Aep'
creased thar now every dry goods, fancy and M
tiop house large small keeps them. and d." NAM mo
large firms III the city confne their attention " Sy
ciusvely To ms line Of business. -
TWO or three button gloves are now worn almost
exclusively BY ladies Or street wear the one bnt
ton having run out OF date. For evening wear
lour anu SIX buttons are Ia vogue. For young
IN sses, the "Harris Misses, and the Victoria
Misses" gloves are very popular. These can be had
aud upwards) OF these gloves being often worn by.
ladies with small hauds; they come in one, two
ana Three buttons ana are splendid Ia quahty
me 'oauntlet Victoria" gloves are very pretty
and SNOWY and are much worn. Gentiemenis
gloves IN "ne and two buttons and IN extra sewed
ana IN plque can be obtained In ali the fashionable
ana stAp.e colors. The light Lnted evening gloves,
such as pale lavender peari, lemon, straw ana nesh
coiors, are very beautiful and Tor street wear
all The new cloth snades can be matched sucn as
browns, London smoke. reseda, bottle green, navy
mand has been TO- these new shaues To he In
harmony With the dress goods 50 much worn aud
tne colors In gloves nave matched wonderfully
gloves are III greater use than those embroidered
WIN wh.e, as he former are not 80 haoie 20 tear
or spiit IN the stitches as the latter. Very lew
people VINO wear kid gloves have any idea OF the
time and labor it requires to manufacture them.
Tue nrst gr at care oil q dealer KID gioves liz 10
be very choice IN his selection colors as this Is
Of very great Importance. The coiors have to be
stances, especially ia france, ii requires eight Or
ten months to have an order executed.
The skins OF the KIDS and lambs are brought
principally from the southern parts OF France
SPAN and the noun ainous districts o. Austria.
by lew capitalists, who employ u LARGE number
oil travelling agents in these c0iltries To uuy up
all tue sSins me trade beng n the hand, OF
own figure, and the prices to the manufacturers
are consequently ruled by these capitalists. The
the food and place where the goat is raised the
IN untaln goat having the finest ana best sKln,
that OF The Nat land goat being somewhat nerori in
quality. In the MANUFACTURE oil KID gloves the
skins a. first painted over with poisonous com
position, winch mas the elect OF Ioosenlng the
wool or hair without lniurlns the SAN. After
this has been removed the tanning COM
aays to sometimes month"; tine " .cnord iHns
20 the natu or the skin. The THINNER the SKIN the
sooner 1t is tanned. Alter the tanning the SKINS
are hung on lines TO dry, where they snrlnk up SO
much that they are hardly recognizdule rs lamb or
goat skins. Tie skins are next soltencd IN a very
naked feet, or more recently by macnInerv. Alter
the skins are soltened sufficiently tucy are ald ON
u z,
blade by which process they are cleane . o. All the
remaining animal matter and at tue same time
to De observed IN this part Of the Saas tns
the least wrong movement ON the part
OF o. the workmen would cut the SKIN.
certain G Tors are put on, such As black, purple,
&c. It is necessary y. satarale the SKINS with a
particular solution IN order to close tho
pores, SO tuat the dye VIII not pene-
trate, put leave the inside perfectly
through the SKIN and spoh the glove. in dyeing
the skins are stretched across perfectly smooth
marble slao ana the dye is put GU with brushes.
When properly dyed the SKINS stretched
lengtnWise as much as possible, and la th,s con-
ditlon taey are cut IN such manner as to sait tee
lengtn OF the hanl. me skins arescuf Ia SQUARE
pieces OF sucn widths that 1t VIII measure the
exact size OF tue glove 1t 10 to MAKE Tne cutting
great care, not only to avoid The imperlactIona
which all skins nave more or less, but TO alow tue
hand. When cut they are sent 10 another de-
partment, where they are again measured Asa
across Tue piece, marKing Ut the same time
the exact centre. No" the nnsers and thumb, tho
gore pieces and the small pieces between the
fingers are cut. Inc three lines the seams on
the back OF the hand are made next. zach piece
q a me sSin ~ theM put o, ON noes ana noes or
ing as many sharp points as stitches are re-
CURED.
This part OF the manufacture requires great
care, as too heavy stroke with the IN llet will
cause the holes to be made too large, whereby the
leather Is weakened ana the gioves, wnen finished,
Will sooner Tear at these weak parts wncn put on
the nand, winch is auit with All tic. cd gloves.
The sewing the gloves is mostly done ouL Oh too
factory in private FAMILIES scattered about the
neIghbUrnOod. A girl can sew, on an average, two
paris OF gloves IN one day ANA each grl Is o. oviued
witt a pass book stating the number Oh gloves sic
taxes out and returns to the factory.
Tue largest manufacturers nave now machines
Tor sewing gives: but, so lar, p,qut gloves only
Al e sewn on them. Inc difference IN prcs be-
tween machine and hand sewn Is ABOUT 81 per
dozen IN favor OF tie fol mer. Hand gloves
are much hanusomer III appearance, put not more
durable. BY sewing win the machine he straight
ing finished by hand. The ,ast part OF the manu-
facture Is the fastening o. the hooks nni eyes or
packed Tor Shipment, aud it Is astonishing now
Wen they turn out, especially tn hight SHADES, con.
slder.ng the number 81 hands they pass through
In addition to the extensive array Of millinery
which greeted the ladies at the first opening, y
month ago, many novelties have made tner ap-
peafance. One Oh tue most distnytts hats IL the
Aiexandrlnc. The orlglual OF this nat was IN de
by Viroi, OF Paris for the ID icness o E,iInburgn,
and one OF our naodistes has been lrtunate enough
TO obtain an exact copy. IL Is lin bacS cup, high
oval crown. trimmed with soft white SILK and deli
cate variegaIed roses; shaued wing bound with
black satin, INSIDE trimmings o. crepe Hsse. Another
beauty Is lace crown. embroidered VITA jet ana
two straw col0rcd feathers OF the most delicate
shade, with a wing passing through the Gathers
and cluster 0, roses embedded in lace. An
gray, one eather falling over the front aud
one dropping over the back. with dne
caught up on one side with "a vine % detcate PINK
roses; inside trimming, wnite bloade. Another or
the prevailing Sly les Is Wnlte camp trimmed Win
brown Illusion, woven with chenille Jetted fringe.
with stylish BOW oil brown velvet nned with
white silk, studded with Tea roses long Scarf
o. illusion fastened through the straw oenlnd and
forming strings.
The following houses have held "expositlons" OF
spring fashions, rom when the above facts nave
been gleaned:-Lord Taylor, A. u. stewart
Co., Harris Brothers, KNEE Nine. Hartley, Nine.
James McCreery TO-, Daniei son,
Nine. Walton, broadway; Ricnard Meires, O'Nenl,
Macy stern Brothers, sixth avenue; z. Al. Oiney,
Fourteenth street.