, 1874-04-04
Appearance Of tho City-lgnorance and ST.
perstition Of tito Inhabitants.
Clerical Hostility to Educatlon-".Row
the Government Is Counteract-
ing That Influence.
Tho Riviera di Chiaja---T1e Po-
silipo Grotto, md tho
Tomb Of Virgil.
: capua and Hannibal.


speetai Correspondence et The chtcaao Tribune.
NArLEs, March 7. 1874.
Disagreoablo weathcr in Romo induced mo to
sock for bottor further south. So bought
tickets for Napoli (NapleB), 190 miles southeast
Of Home. For tho first 90 miles the railway
track runs noarly parallel with
THE Arp1AH Way
tbs croat military road Of the Romans, con-
structed 912 years before tue Christian era, aud
extending first to Naples, and thon across tho
pcninsu!n to Drunlusiun,, on tho Adriattc Sea,
12o milos, making tho whole length Of this
eranito- paved road 800 milos. Drundusium-the
nodorn Brindisi-waa the great naval station OF
the Roman Empire. It was tho port Of embark
ation for Tho Roman armios for Greece and
Asia, and is celebrated In history for tho siego
sustained in it by pompoy, who had taken refuge
In its citadel, with the ConBuls and Senators OF
, Rome against tho victorious army Of Julius
Cnsar.
! Aftor pasBing the second station from Rome,
the railroad turns eastward, passing through tho
middle OF the great plain which oxtends from
Romo to Naples bounded on tho loft, as you go
; southcast, by tho Apennino range Of snow-
! cappod mountains, and on the right by tho Med
iterranoan Sea. Tho average width OF this "can1-
pagua" botwcon tho 1nountain-range and sea is do
to SO miles, But It is not all lovol land. Much
Of 1t may be described as trolling rrnirie, and
mart of it is bro1son into high ridges and low
spurs Of mountains. Tho Appian Way kept
within sight Of tho aoa, touching at tho
ports of Tcrracinn mud Gaesa,-hoth important
Roman naval stations. At the Inter city, thu
popo took refuge after his flight from Rome In
1850, and reuninod there until tho Frcnch army
remposel him on the nomaus.
THE FAMOUS 1oNT1HE MARSHES
commence at the distance Of Is miles south Of
Rome, and extend SO miles further south. They
: aro G to u milos broad. Tho Appian Way ran
straight through them. They aro tenanted now
by herds Of wild cattle, wild boars, stags. wild
fowls, and frogs; and, where they are trayorsed
by the highroad, tho occupants Of tho fow aoli-
tary post-houscs exhibit, in their dark and 1ivid
countonanceB. tho evidoncea of the deadly mhla-
iria which is exhalcd therefrom, In P]iny's time
thoy were drained, cultivated, and highly pro-
ductiyo. The recent efforts at drainage hayo
partially reclaimed about $4,000 acros; and tho
Government engineers are studying tho best
methods for finishing tho work. h1uch Of tho
unhoa1thnoss Of Romo, aud tho campasna
around it, in summon, is ascribod to the maaria
from tho Pontine Marches, waftcd over tho city
nnd surrounding country by tho southeastern
"airocco" winds. The great difficulty in drain
ing thom is caused by tho want OF fall into tho
eea, as they are almost on level with 1t, and. in
tho rainy soason, are overaowcd by tho rush Of
water from the mountains. The Roman Con-
euls made many efforts to drain these marshes,
hut 1t WAS not fully accomplished till tho timo OF
Julius Cesar, who constructed great canal,
with many latern1 branches through thom. The
hollow way OF tue old canal can still ho traced.
About or miles from the northern end OF the
marshes is spot called
Fono ArrIo,
which has an interest for tho Christian Traveller,
ns tho spot where st. Paul first mot llss brethren
from Rome, az he journeyed from Naples to the
"Etornal City" to stand Ills trial on accasa-
ton Il tho Jows, as pcstilont, radical ae1tator
who Ind been stirring up mischief among the
orthodox conservatives. We read in Acts: "Aud
so we went forward toward Rome. And from
thence, when tho brethren heard Of us, they
came to meeet us as far rs tho Appii Forum and
the Threo Tavcrns; whom, whom Paul saw, ho
thanked God and took courage" There is still
q small inn, whore lunch and glass Of vino
mny bo procured, at the identical place where
stood tho "Three Tnyerns" mentioned bv Paul.
The distance the brethren came forth TO meet
their lender WAS about forty-nine miles from tho
City Of Rome.
But must roturn to the train en- route to Ma
miles Of tho distance is through "a exceedingly
yolturuo Rivers.
TIE FAMOUS oApuA, ...
tho pleasures of which 40 enorynted the OArtha-
geniau army-ysio fingered about there several
years. TINT Hannibal could no longer win vioto-
ries with them over the logions OF Rome-7ia on
the banks Of tho Vo1tnrno River. within eighteen
miles Of Naples. felt . curiosity to SEQ this
Rome itself. In the deya of the Cnsare. its
walls we're miles in circumference, and it CON
tanned 800. 900 Inhabitants. It has ahrunkon IN
to town OF Is, 900, and contains nothing worth
romark, except the ruins of its ancient Amphi'
theatre, which was OF enormous dimensions.
Tie rni1way-train for tho Inst 10 miles paeaee
through q plain Of continuous gardons vino.
yards, and mulberry plantations and which is
thickly studded over with villages. Naples do
1ruit, and mncaFoni-from this cam.
pagne, waterea by tho voltnrno, ana
fruitful as tho Valley Of the Nila. The soil ia
black md rich rs the prai5ie4 Of Central illinois
ately tributary to Naples ia perhaps 60 miles
long by Is wide. On this space Of 1G0f
aquarc miles 1.-Two 9o7 752 souls, Of whom 547,oGC
nro huddled and packed in Naples. This eqtlale
a npopuation of to the acre, or $40 to the square
milo. Near the south oud Of this plain, aud
about miles from Naples, towers up
BLACK AND SAVAGE yEsuy1us,
thrco'qnarters Of Ia mile high; and around it&
% Whom may be overwhelmed BY an an eruption a
any time, for tho orator Is eB treacAorout
as q tiger, and sometimes giyoa but sllght
warning before 1t bclches forth flood Of
molten lava. For aovoral weeks past q cloud ol
smoke has riaen perpetually from tho yawnine
cavorn and occasionally low. rumbllng aound'
aro heard, as II tho bowols OF the monnain vert
out Of order. People in tho city think thor'
will bo another eruption before long az aeyer,
as that Of two years. ago, which destroyed soy
eral small yillagoa and q largo number OF lives
THE AppEAnANCE OF NArL.Ea
is tolernbly familiar to most readers, from pic
turea and descriptions WHICH they hayo seen
The inhabitants cla,m for It tho rnoat beautiful
site OF any city in tho world, not excepting Con
stnntnoplo or Now York. In panoramic ctfcc
it is probable tEat thu eltnation Of no other cit.
equals 1t. The Bay Of Naplca resembles thelatto
g, being great creHcont, or throe-quartera OF
circle, 80 miles in circuit and 90 across. Tho Git
is built Oh tho north shore, at the foot and "
the slopes Of range Of hills, which shelter |
from the cold winds Off tho Apennlne Noun
tains. In front Of tho city, und At tho distanc
Of "a miles southwark, looms up the drouscdary
looking Island Of Capri, bnt which seems no
thnn K mr. II rnftHH ofF r. st e1pa Hnr04