Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1874-06-03

| DOtn IOT mousse anu street. Line SIM
plest design for these is thelons, blouse
pOlOnaise Ike those of last year except
that very few are double-breasted.
They are now buttoned only from throat
to belt, and fall open thence, disclosing
pretty pleatings, rufles and shirred
puffs that are placed either horizontally
or longitudinally ON the front breadth
of the skirt, while single deep founce
with shlrred heading passes around the
bottom, a narrow ruffe edges the po-
lonaise and forms g. ruff and cuffs.
Girls who take more time and trouble
with their walking dresses get the fou-
lard finished percales with brown, buff,
dove color or blue grounds dotted or
barred with white, and make them up
with sleeves and lowe skirt of solid
color, using the figured goods for jack
cts, Overskirt and ruffies. When neat
ly fitted and prettily finished off, these
dresses have quite an AR about them
and are almost as handsome as fou
lards.
Calico wrappers and morning gowns,
IN which mothers and maidens alike
take breakfast and perform their daily
round of household duties. are made of
shilling caico"-clear white grounds
with stripes and bars of violet blue or
nut-brown, twilled like cheviot cloths.
These have clinging gabrielle fronts,
with slight fullness behind, which is
farther increased by deep Spanish
tiounce, that Is ON the back breadths
only. This fiounce is finished top and
bottom with a side-plaited frill, and
three similar frills are placed across the
front breadth. The neck has a stand
ing plated ruf1e, and sometimes there
are two ruffies edging the neck and the
wrists of the coat sleeves. The belt is
made of the straight calico, lined,
bound ON each edge and fastened be-
hind by small bow. From the right
side hangs aswinging pocket Ia chate-
lame, made of the calico in oblong
shape, or IN fat pentagon. suspended
by hemmed bands from the belt. The
front is buttoned its whole length, or
else fastened by bows of hemmed
strings, tied when the dress is put on,
but united Tor the laundress.
WHITE WRAPPERS.
White suits of pique and Vic toria
lawn viii not be as much worn as in
former Junes; pique is too warm and
the why lawns crush too easily. More
over, there began last year reaction
in favor of darkerIhues, and ladies at
the summer resorts were dressed In
winter colors. There is, however, a re-
viYed fancy for the old cross barred
muslins IN fine nansook and soft null
for morning wrappers. These are
made with the gabrielle fronts, Just de-
scribed, while tie back is in vatican
folds, or else the waist is continued to
form peplum basque and the back of
the skirt is then sewed on underneath.
The trimming Is plain nansook frills,
needleworked on each edge and either
gathered or plated; if embroidery is
chosen, it is usually the open English
work. The ribbon bows and sashes
worn with these snowy gowns are usu-
ally of dark, stylish color, such as Vio-
let. navy-blue, prune, deep ponceau, or
else of black velvet The chatelaine
bag to match the ribbon is inevitable.
Charming little caps of muslin are
They have Charlotte Corday crowns
with lace frills, knots of violet or rose
ribbon and Byzantine and violet clus-
tiers, or the merest tip of an ostrich
feather.
ENGLISH RIDING HABITS.
Another thing that out-of-t to wn girls
should know IN time for summer riding
narties is row the English riding hab-
its look in Central Park. They are
safer and more comfortable than the
long gored skirts american eques-
trinnes wear, though 1 caEuot say much
for their grace. They are cut out OF
wide cloth with only two seam2-one
on each side-and they have a project
ing part that fits over the right knee !
when it is thrown across the pommel. |
The effect of this is to make the bot |
tom of the skirt hang event. all around. |
The waists short in front with square |
fat-pleated postillion back. 1t is but |
toned up close to the throat and has |
tight sleeves. Black habits are prefer |
red by city riders and are worn with a |
plain linen collar and white muslin
neektie. The hat is a stove-pipe |
beaver with a black net mask veil.
The hair is combed up from the neck,
braided high on top of the
head and the knot is hidden
in the hat; flowing curls and
braids may be picturesque, but do not
look well when the horsemOves rapidly; |
the neat compactc couture Just described,
is in far better taste, as the pettlcoats
creep up uncomfortably in the saddle
and make the rider look very clumsy.
Ladies here have adopted the trowsers
that English womenwear on horseback.
They are made like those worn by men,
are partly lined with Chamois leather,
and are strapped under the boot. La
dies who object to wearing trousers
have closed Turkish drawers of muslin
faced below with cloth like the habit.
LINEN SUITS.
Gray, undressed linen finds greater
favor for suits than the long-worn buff
or the newer navy blue. This is made
into very simple jackets, partly fitted
to the figure, and deep, round apron
overskirts; the trimming is bias band,
piped with the same, or with blue or
brown. The skirt of walking length
has two plated rufies, piped to match
the bands. There are also suits with
long pclonaises, single-breasted and
| belted.
French dressmakers import white
linen suits striped with green or black
in pencil lines. These are charming
materials that cannot be purchased
here, and imported wash dresses are al
ways denominations, as they are never
neatly sewed, and are so overladen with
incongruous trimming that they can
not be 'done up" and they have none
of the beauty of simplicity, which is
their chiefest beauty.
ODDS AND ENDS.