, 1874-01-02
CRUISING AROUND CUBA.


| It actually takes a3 many days to get from
Battibano to Santiago de Cuba as from New
| York to Havana. I started on Wednesday aud
arrived here Monday morning, and yet the
distance can hardly bo more than 800 miles. We
stopped at Cienfuegos, at Casllda, the port OF
Trinidad; at Stuncs, the port Of EspiritC Santo
at Santa Cruz. and'at Aanzanillo. As re often
remained for half day waiting for freight to
come down By the little railroads with which the
ports and cities IN rear connected, it is not
surprising that We were so long in coming SO
ehort distance. But the SpaDiards, conscious
that their line is not the speediost. and that
their utmost to please The Villa Clara
is as we'll built, spacious and pleas
ant boat IS any Of those which navigate or
American rivers. There is not, indeed. the same
gorgeousness Of decoration rs on the boats of
the Sound but The cabins are as large, ii not
Tho great attraction, however, is the table,
which is really unsurpassed. The Spanish
cuisine was perfectly unknown to me, and whom
I first sat down to breakfast I looked with some
mines OF ga-lic aud of red pepper in these appe-
tizing ''plats.' But this proved erroneous, aud
found that the cookery of the Spaniards WAS
no longer what it had been in the davs when Brit
ish warriors espoused tho cause Of Queen Chris
tinx- Every meal WAS u succession Of surprises.
Ragouts oI.tho most exquisite favor were sue
ceoded by iish most delicate!y cooked, the inter-
walls being filed up by large pzauns, called here
"camarmes, or ''langustinos." The materials
are, however, rather peculiar. Tao waiter
brought nlo On tho first day 3 ragout. served up
in the red earthon platter in which it had boan
cooked TWAS delicious, but pecu1iar-sayory,
but glutiuous. I questioned my neighbor WHO
Was French tobacco planter Of Cienfuegos, and
learned that this delicate dainty was cow-heol.
All the best plats p" arc served in earthen
platters in the same style. Aud, from wIa1: I
saw. should judge that the favorite morsei of
our Spanish friend YVES salt cod slowed III vim
eSar, with rod peppers, tomatoes, onions, and
occasionally potatoes. The wine used WAS
Catalan. Sometimes it WAS tolerable. oftener
dete5table, and it WIS suspicious fact that the
English palo ale. Ono Of the strong points OF
this line is that you may order whatever you
like. and, if it's on board, you have it gratis.
And, to do them justico- they Invariably keep
whatever they think will be called for. English
ale brandy, wine, etc. are always forthcoming
on demand. This style of business is practica-
bio among class OF passengers almost entirely
French. and Spanish, for they are notod for their
Bobriety. Dut fear il it were tried on our river
boats, there would be an inevitable bankruptcy
Of the propEetoz5, to say nothing Of other
sequences.
4 life such as this-plenty Of good things to
eat and drink. a heavenly climate. I aea OF ON
crald, and an azure sky, aad nothing to do
would probably SUIT the great minority OF men
III Imagination, but i'll reality it is not the para
disc one thinks it. 10 the tired man of busi-
ness, however. nothing can be moro pleasant
than tho everyday existence Of these boats.
There il just enough excitement to please. aud
there is no ,solry. But for the man who is not
tired aud who desires to work, enforced idleness
is anything bat 9 pleasure, aud was truly glad
when We arrived at Maazauillo, and saw in the
distance beyond tho town tho fln,y masses OF
the distant mountains. Here, in the tropics,
everything il seen through si!rery veil, aud
this indistfnctuess is Of the chief charms OF
!, Nnn7n:,if{n
the slope OF low hill, distant spur Of the
chain bevoud. Everything hero is
marked. but beyond there is haze
which aiternates from dreary gold 70 palest sill
yer: Looking from the town upon the sea. the
horizon is made more ne:s by the shimmeriug
atmosphere through which tho low islands
CLEAN sometimes when the suns rays strike
upon rock but oftener tEey seem to sleep up
on the surface OF the waters. The water seen
from the distance is all IN streaks Of varied
green where deep, and of an
excessively bright hEe where the Bballowncss Of
tlo SEQ permits tho white sand Of the bottom to
the 'o:a! color. Wherever there il G
sald-bar or d reef. there you sec CLEAN of viz
id purple fading OFF into u clear brown. and
tins vou SEQ on every eide, Tor A1nnzaulllo is
veil protected By the sea itself. The channel il
marked by humber OF stakes, Buru1ounted By
things that look like white inverted pals. and OIL
he top OF each is o marine bird busilr fishing.
fhe lish peI:aio or tue general gorgeouscess
Ja CQloE. IL you luok u0HH utU LIS Ni1ttl J
7ou can SEQ three kinds of fish circulating round
he steamers stcyn- Ono is tho needle fish. |
yll1ch looks like combination OF Gel aud sword !
ish. It's snort is elongated to an enormous
ength, tapering to C. deiicA1o point. The edges !
# the suou.. the tail, thu fms, and streak ou |
ZACH aldo Of tho backbone are Of q most intense !!
,lae. It is b!Eer than ultramarino. Or lapis- |
azuI. This fish is good to ea:, s1d the Span
ards love it nlncl, and say 1t is 1nuy oueno. |
The second is tho percado du.do, which il
ctual1y like pink fish, with gilded tail, fms,
'elly. and head. IN the centro it shines with |
he glitter Of dulled gold. This also is d mag
lificont iish to eat. The third is like founder.
gowu in Color with huge google eyes OF yellow, |
nd streaks OF deep blue around them and On tho |
heeks, lilo a founder tattoced.