, 1874-09-06
Velvet and Beads as Trimming
The Polonaise Refusing to
Be Banished.
Bouo},, Uneven Materials in Vogue---
Round, Plump Autumn-Rats.
qhe Last Folly in Lingcric---
Black Still the E2voritc
Color.

rtnc.1I7 seems rs If the weather we're in lea gu
.:tb tho nodstes and merchants to compel til
rsorvl Of v:rdrobes, whether people are rcad
,not There were many evenings md morn
tres in August that, notwithstanding their dry
,css. were ccol enough to render an open wood
frs,Terv desirable addition to eociety. And, nor
,bst smother month has opcncl,-in spite OF ,
General prediction OF hoat,-thcre is oven create
n-oroiss of coo!ncss than before.
GREAT PROMISES.
Although everybody pgetends to think tha
septe1nbor Is bouud to mako up to us for ou
unusual lnck Of er-temperature, still there
Ia observable q strong tendency to prepare fol
colder dsya than NO Lave had, which bellies the
filth expressed in renewed warmth. To In!
tss.e, tue sur1mor has hecn simply perfect from
beginning to end and the ausumn opens as
ehsrnins1s as tho summer closed. The shop
windows, large and small are hung with bright
c,lors and heavy fabrics, suggestive Of tho sea-
son, and the counters hare that clearcd-of ap-
rearance which botokeuB preparation for new
Invoices. Dealers throw out perple1ing and
.gg.ayating hints Of coming wonders Of texture
snd style, but positively refuse to exhibit any
thing until the Rubicon-" Opening-Day "-ia
passed. However, come deductions can be
drawn from the few statements made. There is
no doubt about tic
ETEREs, AND pIAIE3, AND FIGURES.
asI mentioned before They will come in every
fabric, and be much WON By those that can hare
syaried wardrobe but, for those who have to
to content with little. there will bo plenty Of
plain goods from which to choose. Diagonal
cloths, having rep, dot, or stripe, will be prom
tncnt nmong heavy stulfs, though they will gen.
orally be entirely Of one sbade Velvet-striped
flks and silks with raised figures in velvet. will
be favoritcs among the richer materials and for
those to whom these goods arc too expensive,
viii bo adopted tho mode of trimming silks with
bands and folds Perpendicular as woll as hori-
zoEtaD Of cut velvet. and sometimes stripes Of
ribbon yelTet.
VELVET AS TRIMMING
has always beeu acknowledged to be the most
beautiful aud suitable thing Oh autumn and WIN
ter garments: and go strongly is it favored that
the danger Of late has been to prevent its being
similarly used in WARM weather. Fringe and
Eimps arc the natural aceompanimeat Of velvet; ;
consequently they haTo been imported in larg e
quantities. not only in black and white, but in
many rich shades of coors to match tho fashion
able hues Of silk and velvet An unnatural Sc
Compartment Of velvet is beads and. alas!
beads OF steel. Of glass, OF jet. OF gold, are
wrought in all sorts OF fantastic figures velvet
intended for hats, and jackets, and trimming
It seems as If tho better nature Of the weayers
themselves must 1eco.1 at ouch desecraton
bnt, apparently, They donot, for boxes md boxes
Of these bea4l-burnished fabrics are awaiting the
admirers aud purchasers OF the fanclfu1.
BEADS IN EXCESS
Hopeful persons had dared to believe that
beads had grown q trilIe out Of date since the
But no such good fortune is OUTS. Beads not
only have not gone out OF vogue, they nro
more in vogue than for q long time. 1hcy will
glitte: and shine wherever they eau bo attached,
on all sorts Of fabrics and Ill sorts Of garments
Often they will form the whole embroidery in
other cases they will be mixed with embroidery
Of floss and braid For those exceptional NOR
tals Who will not wcar beads in any form,
sILE EMBROIDERY
will be substituted. and this Of the most elabo-
rate description. It is not used on waists and
E!eeges alone, but on oyeIskirt end undetakrt, !
eyen on bonnet and cloak. liot merely vine |
or spray Of flowers forms the wrought garni- |
ture this 6cason special design is arranged |
for each portion Of the costume. Every breadth |
has its o"n model every piece its own pattern, |
wilo throughout is preserved 4 consistency of |
plan not at first appreciated To SAY this is |
costly style Of trimming, il to mildly express it.
Heavy Gs these costumes arc when completed,
they are worth more than their weight in gold |
and their only excuse for being g, tina. they fur
Fish employment for 4 class of workers who
have been sAdly out Of employment for some
while.
Eow many tinacs has tho
sounded. I wonder? Could they bo counted !
Does memory OF woman go back to the frat an
nounce1nent OF their going out? What belle !
would like to admit herself old enough to re-
member that period? And yet they have not
gone, nor are they likely to 50, despite porten-
ous rumb}ing6 in the clear Sky OF fashion. Tile
ruth is. they are too convenient aud economical
. bo easily abjured. They must, and wil}. take
heir departure by slow and easy stages. P1oba-
,ly certain amount Of moush c1ap-trnp will be
0Y-o6
&c to dispense with them. Their r1csout form
S as nearly perfection in comfort and appear
inco as it Is wise. perhaps, for
'oor, frail garment to be. If it
Eear the thing until it was reduced to degree
4 ehaobiness highly unbeconing our position in
ocaety- There are women now who look as il |
hey we're nodded into their polooaises, at tho
eSnning OF the Season, and remained in them
III the molds fell away at the close. Tho pol
e fos the next three months. differs in no ma
eral degree from tho past three months. It
etlll long. drawn closely back into long loops
eelnd, open about hnlf-way up tho front. For ,,
reasted but tiEht-itting front, and will more
Fequently have somo kind Of coat-collar than
standing fraise. Where it is nado to wear y
1th special elk skirt, it frequently
Is sleeves Of the sl1l either with cuffs like tho
oonaise, or Like tho silk (according to choice), !
I'D opens At the neck over d vest OF tho silk q
he latter notion is very gooa for it is far moro =
Iotecton to tho throat and lungs than the !
lnsJ lttla cambria underkerchiofs usually !
orn. o
- MATERIALS y
IN rough, uneven, LARRY surface, are import !;
IN large quantities and, while they will bo u
SEQ chiefly for polonaises they will appear both =
entlra suits, mud in the beltcd basques and =
ng apron-oyersEirts that are sometimes pre- =
med to the polonaise. The advantages and =
Of these goods are very evenly =
sioed On the ono hand, their rough y
ess gives them d rather undress look; the =. q
esriness is inclined to catch dust, and soil =, -.
2fe e than Enooth-surfaced fabrics. On the .: o.
'aer haad, they will endure degree OF hard =. 81
eas, Iunpllng and tumblins, tnat would ruin p =
oef, @ finished stuff. Besides this their very
prevents spots and other soil from -
:oslng as much as they would on smooth =. ~
a. ,oos. The general name for them is, ns here 6:
lose cancels hair cloth and there are moro ~ ~
sedes than yo1 could count your two hands. ~
33eS ere woven in stdpes,-two shades Of one ~ ~
~. serezally-2nd with queer, rail-fencelike ~ ~
slst,ons Of diagonal weaving. ''They say" u u
~ the best kinds come from Russia, and are | I:
esnmabls manufactured from the hair Of the III
shmere goat. At any rate, the prico charged
tnem-Sl0 nyard-one would think might
!! 1or their coming from tho Aptipodc5.
: : ns honestly confess, however: that these ne