The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1874-10-24
Through the Devils Canon.

So much has already been written aboui
the wonders Of California, that one is nat.
urally tempted to turn away from anything
which bears upon the subject, and yet to
those who are really intending to visit the
Golden State, the following sketch may
not be without interest We start from
Calistoga, party OF twelve, In large
open wagon with six horses, and the world
renowned Mr.. Foss to drive them. Be
fore mounting to the box, where two Of
us, by special request, are already seated,
he fills every pocket with small green
apples aud stones, to throw at the leaders
if they grow lazy in climbing the noun
tains, since they are too far away for the
whip lash to reach them. Drawing up the
reins, and telling us that before he learned
to drive six-in-hand he never could sec the
use of having 50 many fingers, aud with a
cry Of Hip Hip to the horses, crack Of
the whip, away We rush. For short
distance we pass over level country, the
road shaded on either side by the sweeping
oak, with its branches almost trailing upon
the ground, the dark-lcayed bay tree, and
occasionally the low broad spreading ma
drone.
Presently we commence the ascent Of
the steepest mountain one can possibly
imagine, in the side Of which the road is
cut, so that upon one hand we have a
tremendous precipice, and on the other a
high bank. The curves are so close
together that VIXEN the wagon is rounding
one, the horses arc passing the next, and
50 short that sometimes the leaders walk
to tho very edge of the precipice, and
inyoluntarily We place our hands before
our eyes TO shut out the horrible sight Of
our plunge into the valley below. With
sharp, quick turn they carry us safely
around and we breathe again. When we
have toiled slowly to the top Of the noun
tain, Foss places his foot on the brake and
utteriDg his shrill cry, starts the horses on
full gallOp down the other side, while we,
poor trembling creatures, hold on to any
thing, thinking every moment that wagon,
horses, people, everything will be tumblcd
into one heap and dashed to pieces on the
rocks beneath. Foss has evidently re.
dueed driving to a science and manages
his horses beautifully, and SO we travel on
listening to his quaint stories of those
whom he has driven over the road at
different times, told only as he can tell
them, forgetting that every moment brings
us nearer to the great geyscn Suddenly
We perceive smell Of sulphur and hear
in the distance roar as II we were ap.
preaching rapid river. A shrill, pene-
trating whistle rises above all, and we are
told il is the Devil welcoming us to his
home among the mountains.
Arriving at the hotel, we rest for short
time, and then donning the old clothes we
have brought for the purpose, las the sui
phur and alum ruin everything they touch
we take our alpen stocks and start for
our walk through the Dayils Canon, A
small stream Of water rises short distance
above the canon, which at its source is icy
cold and perfectly clear, and yet before il
has passed half way through, has become
discolorcd by contact with the different
minerals and almost scalding hot. The
steam rises in every direction, and we step
carefully upon the largest stones, fearing
our feet may sink into the hot soft earth,
which burns even through our heavy boots
We place our sticks in the ground to keep
our footing, and in drawing them out
again, find that little streams Of steam
follow them. Sulphur abounds in large
quantities, some Of which we attempt to
carry away with US, hut find it too hot TO
he taken into our hands with comfort.
With difficulty, and almost sickened by
the dreadful odors, we reach what is called
the Devils Kitchen, where stream Of
steam issues from the earth with singing.
kissing sound like that Of boiling kettle.
Then roaring, boiling, foaming sound
greets our ears, and the guide cautions US,
for we are near the Witches Cauldron, the
depth of which no one has ever yet been
able to fathom. We gain the edge and
look down into the immense seething pool,
so black and angry that we draw back
shuddering, almost afraid to trust ourselves
too near the treacherous brink. We stop
here TO rest, and the guide, placing half
dozen eggs in an old oyster can, which has
evidently been used many times for the
same purpose, drops it into the water, and
in four minutes we have eggs as nicely
boiled us one could possibly desire. Again
We start on our journey, keeping close to
our guide as the earth grows hotter, and
we stop to examine black liquid which
oozes from the rocks, and has been named
the Devils Ink, and may really be used as
faint substitute for that very necessary
article. The rocks seem almost to crumble
at the touch, and everything is literally
covered with sulphur, alum, magnesia, and
Tartaric acid or EPSON salts, each Of which
our guide insists upon our tasting, much to
the disgust Of all. Even the trout which
abound in ncighboring stream arc SO im-
preguased with the sulphur that they can
not be eaten.
Finally we reach the Steamboat Geyser,
out Of which the steam Issues 50 hot that
one dare not approach very near, but as
the earth shakes, groans aud puffs in a
most uncomfortable manner, scc are not
sorry. Very near this gcyseg Is secn what
Is supposed to be tho crater Of an extinct
volcano, and as we stand about listening to-
4 = q -. ~ n