Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-01-01

velvet over q tea rose stlk looks exceedinsly
s Vel, and , an excellent comelsation for .
pink Is very beautiful. and pale china blue over
stone color ,lishtes' shsde) or ash gray.
GROWN Up DOLLS.
Ienctd its sbsurdities for women, but u Is not
20 by any means The latest Innovation, and
Of lld asoIs OF different fesh tints' There have
been Partisan rumors OF actresses who had re-
movable wax ntcks, but hid necks, nDe, soft,
ntsh-tinted Md. such covers the best French
dolls, e q touch OF art sublime In It's simplicity.
and 20 perfect In Its adaptation 70 the human
form, that IL Y impossible 10 tell-vhen prop
eriy ntted-vhere hid end< and flesh begins
To render the illusion complete, however, a
tulls scarf Is lightly worn about the throat.
oVEkDRkssks.
The simple overskirt and overiress which
has nonrisbed Tor the past ten year., more or
less, has been superseded by the polonaise aud
the trained TUNES, but there are stil some over
dresses seen, particularly at dsy receptions,
which doubtless retain their place from their
oostsnd elegance.
The newest OF these are worn over very light
silks, pale elue, pink, pearl and corn color, and
consist Of mas OF insertion, alternating with
bands Of black velvet The sleeves are some
un sa q q an'Ye. someomes henry IL, large
back Of the skirt in these cases arranged In q
pouf, outlined with q wide velvet sash. trimmed
with lace and Insertion. or made OF alternating
strips OF insertion and velvet ribbon, the euis
bordered with wide lace.
oyeTdresscs have been found most conveu-
lent, however, and will hardly be likely 90 die
out. IL was the short, bunched-up affairs
'caded with trimmings. which disgusted sensi-
bic women by their utter want Of mo tive, grace
OF distinction, and the reckless destruction Of
tine fabrics.
An exquisite evening bonnet, imported by
private order, introduces the novelty of q trim
ming Of sfyRl,,d ribbon and fringe. The ribbon
Is of the psl,r shades OF the Roman colOrs. and
forms regal looking f0rsdde, with the addition
Of ~ full n Naak a.Na -
and silver, there is no other trimming, and over
the forehead a yelloWish fringe, narrow and
straight, falls precisely like the short fringe OF
hair so much OF late. This gives blonde
effect" rs the London hair-dressers say.
cloak accompanies this bonnet, which IL
meant for opera wear, the lady giving the order
preferring 20 wear a bonnet and cloak, 20 ap-
pearing there in fun dress. The cloak II OF
gray cashmere, with broad peplum bands Of the
faded Roman tints laid upon IL. These are
broader width OF the same ribbon that trims the
bonnet. The effect is greatly admired, aud
though inexpensive in comparison TO what such
an order would cost here, owing TO the difticulty
Of procurisg the ribbon, and the is,Jossibissy-
II this does not come under the head OF an
lrishism !-of getting the thing up in q style 30
perfect, Il has been adopted by acclaim, every
one who has seen il wanting "just such a thing
made in just that way
Another private order-this Is for an evening
boDnet-was flled as follows: Upon a frame
as round as a boys cap, and altogether
similar in form, is set double bsndeau, gath
cred into close fOlds, OF light blue velvet, and
tFrff az COG ~s-it. alu tQt-NnQ WIS " a
novelty-s long garland Of acacia buds and
blossoms IL 80 arranged that IL is fully seen
from the fastening TO where Il sweeps behind
the ear, thus giving the effect OF a c0iffare
rather than a bonnet There is no other trim
ming, but the hair must IL Is easily understood,
fall low behind with such head dress.
STU another evening bonnet, and this IL the
only one like IL, for II WAS produced" by -
house that never repeats itself''-c5asisfs Of
forfgitc sLell comb, very large and very wide,
20 that IL reaches from one side Of the head 10
/ the other. Al the hack this Il a small anal
ogy for bonnet frame, which is covered with
grenade velvet, and made invisible 60 the keen
est eye by a fluffy flow OF mixed marahOut AMI
ostrich tips, SCI on ne sdme stem Separate
and to be attached 20 the hair, either on the
I left or right. is a small bunch of the natural
acorns, with one leaf, aud wound thrOu "a the
natural stems. The effect OF this bonnet IL ex-
quisite. Though bonnet, the fastening is not
visible, being asilk elastic, along which runs
slender band Of lace, which, the bonnet on, or
naments the back Of the neck, laying close 10
the roots OF the hair.
FUK As TRIMMING.
There Is a rage for fur trimming this season
such a we have not seen in many wears before
ChTnchilla and blue aud silver fox are the pop
ular styles used, and they are almost universal
as trimming upon velvet aud nsvy-blue cloth.
The Tedingote style is particularly well adapt
ed to fur bands, and nothing can be more ap-
prOpriste for winter wear than a nayy-blue
cloth suit, muff and hat complete, all edged
with gray fur. The velvet polonaise, with Dor
dering Of blue fox, blue fox mutt, rich trailing
skirt and velvet bonnet trimmed with natural
form very attractive and elegant eHssnsiis.
Visiting jackets tor hOusewesr are often trim
med with fur, but it is wisely discarded from
all toilettes intended for evening wear
EMBROIDERED PETTtCoATs.
These are exceedingly elegant and deserve
more than mere mention. They are OF satin
EN- broidered with Jet, velvet worked with silk,
and silk with figures OF satin or velvet, en-
brOidered dO,cR after being cut from some other
fabric than the main ground and set on like ap-
pliQue work.
These "petticeSts' il would appear hardly
necessary 20 say are Lot worn inside, but outside
and are meant TO be seen. They are a substi-
tute for any other visible skirt and are intended
20 TO be, vet some have mistaken their use and
placed other skirts over them, although the ele-
gsnce OF the material, the style Of the make and
the elaborate character of their costly embroid-
cry would seem sufficient TO show what they are
for, which IL, namely, as a finish 10 the costum
called abroad ie costH me pOiOndise.
Some OF these elegant petucoats-in old times
all skitts we're called petticoats-have three en-
bToideTed velvet or satin bands, Others have q
simple wreath of plain embroidery, BY which
expression L mean TO describe that least iOrid In
character,
The reign of jet embroidery is a Cait aoooapIi.
and on cashmere, silk or satin IL is certainly
satin petticoats embroidered in the cOlors OF
natural flowers have appeared
WHAT NoTs.
One Of the pretty fabcies Of the season IL the
adoption Of the gentlemen's button hole soquet,
which is used ia place of breast pin upon tulle,
lace or crepe de c'iae as scarfs or neckties. The
spray usually CONSISTS OF An Engls1 rose ilOng
stemmed, half open, geranium, leaf and sprig
OF heotrope, all inserted in a little golden tube
which Is fsstered at the back with pin. This
is placed to the left of the bow or ends Of lace
and 10 very pretty aud very suggestive OF the
freshness and sweetness which are considered
the especial attributes Of youth. All the girls
wear them, and natural flowers being the rage.
freqnentiy place spray in the belt az well, and
another in the hair.
Jet necklaces, composed Of many bands OF
small cut beads, are also in style, and look well
over black dresses accompanied by jet belt aud
pocket enbroid cred with Jet.
Another fancy is q half wreath Of small roses
OF various colors. mounted with leaves upon
flexible stem, which can be curved OF drawn
out straight. These are sometimes placed upon
the turned up side OF the brim of a velvet hat,
or upon one side OF the heavy braid nov worn
at the back of the head or as an ornament down
the front Of the corsage.
Still another consists OF gold stud buttons held
by links, and used to connect the small turned
down points Of linen cuffs aud collars, which
baye lately been cut away as 70 afford space
II not eNcuse-for this display.
JENNIE JUNK.
KELSEY Or HIS GHosr.-The mysterious die
apDeAranCe Charles ais NH ria