New-York tribune., 1874-08-04
ON THE WAY TO ICELAND.
THE MJLLENNIAL CELEBRATION.

ALBION
irRoM A REGULAR CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRiBVNE'I
ABERDEEN, Scotland. July 2l.When sailed from
Alexandria, little more than three months ago.
nothing was further from my anticipation than
that should undertake another and much more un-
usual journey, before returning home. But to the
few who have never known any other Alma Mater
than THE TRIBUNE
{" Stern rugged nurse. thy rigid lore
Wuh patience many year bore!)
her Tor its call is like that of the trumpet unto the
war-horse. Its desire wears the shape of duty, ana
know not how to decline that which it is sill pos
sible TO do. So the hOmeward tickets must be taken
for month later and after hasty preparation, here
sit already beside the North Sea, bound Tor latl-
tude which / never meant to reach again.
Not that there is no interest in Iceland itself. On
the contrary, the handful of old Scandinavians
there preserve for the scholars of our day phio-
logical and historical interest such equal num-
Der of men have achieved in the annals OF the
world. A thousand years ago they cut loose from
Europe, and carried the most virie element OF IFS
Past almost out of the reach Of later changes. But
Iceland is remote from u.s. in an intellectual "a
well as a material sense, that any satisfactory
knowledge of it requires special appropriation OF
time and study. The only Americans competent to
make the journey with the certainty of reapng
full reward for their time and labor, are George T.
Marsh and Prof. Willard Fske of Cornell Uni
versity. | confess that ! never understood the
separate, isolated character of Iceandic research
until within the past month, while endeayorlng to
ascertain how much of its language and lore are ac-
cessible to who has learned something of mod
ern Danish and Swedish.
The one thOusauGth anniversary of lngOlts land
ng-the first settlement Of Iceland-has brought
tIa knvtb ielu suI I'M ha
circle of general interest that many readers will
welcome variety Of details from which, at other
times, they would turn away. l shall take adyan-
tage of this circumstance and prepare, during the
voyage, brief historical outline which may
introduction TO the mlcnnial festival. As yet,
however, can scarcely realize that | am actually
the way, and must ask You to be content with
few rapid notes of Che journey ND to this point.
Although it is only SIX years since last saw Lon
don, the mighty capital has changed quite as much
as New-York is accustomed to do in the space
of time. Certainly, under clear Summer sun, with
so little coJl-snOke that the dome of St. Paus can
be seen six miles away, with thorOughfareS cut
through the narrow and tangled old alleys and gay
suburbs planted wherever yGI remember field or
comiAJn the city stems ID have become soberer
Paris. The eInbaHkment along the Thames, with
ITS spacious drive It's trees and gardens Is aston
ishing embellishments but in all other quarters
similar work is going on-a more cheerful style of
architecture. greater use of color and ornament
amplcr space and air. more abundant signs of cos
mcpOiitan diversity of taste and habit.
kindred change is slowly creeping upon the
people. The Engshman Gf not more than sixty
years old is decidedly mellower and more sympa-
thetc creature than ne was twenty years ago. Ny
experience during the past two years on the Cont
\ become
quainted with English than with American travel
Outside of "A certain range of cOnventiOnalities
constantly growing smallerl, the former gener-
ally very free, cordial, and companionable. | don't
believe that we, Americans specially liked,
but if not courteously treated. it is pretty
sure to be Our own fault. Neither the remark which
Goodwin Smith was reported to have made, nor its
reverse, is true. In fact with the closer intercourse
which now exists. hate from one side, would be al
most compliment to the other.
Formerly, on returning to England from Germany
or France, there was a striking increase in the ex-
penses Of living and travel. This distinction has
now ceased the cost of many things has diminished
here, while that of others has risen there. On prin
ciple never patronize the large, new, shiny and
snowy hotels aud am unacquainted with their scales
of prices; but at an ancient hoStelry in London,
where Nelson lodged for the last time on English
up every afternoon as it dasbes in from the coun-
try, can make myself very comfortable for about
four dollars per day. And III London it makes much
less difference where one lodges than in New-York.
The English railways, however, are slow to in
tTOduCe necessary innovations. They have not vet
made up their minds to check baggage, and are
hesiating about the sleepngcar The night express,
from Euston-square to Edinburgh, perfection
of speed and smoothness we made the 401 miles in
little less than ten hours but there only the
old chances of sleep and rest l believe there is
sleepingcar on one of the roads to Scotland, al
though, seemed to be positive, did not
try to find it. In all other arrangements the En-
glish roads certainly surpass ours The guards con
ductors), station officials and porters the most
courteous and obgng of their several tribes. They
seem never to forget each passengers needs, to
grow inpatient of his much questioning.
Leaving a clear, hot sky and temperature of 90c
at London, found gray, moist clouds hanging
over the Scottish Lowlands. and at Edinburgh that
peculiar peary, slvery atmosphere which has given
its character to English landscape art. Various
American flags were flying friendly greeting to
one of Cooks parties and although Donald, of the
clan of Macgregor did not pay that compliment
at the Royal Hotel his printed poetcal salutatiOn-'
with copy of THE moons on the lake, and the
mist's on the brae" words and music-was quite as
welcome. In order to appear Scotch as possible,
we ordered broed salmon for breakfast, and spoke
with lit to the walters. Ere long, however, Mr..
Cyrus Field arrived, in company with his friend
Mr. William Nelson, the famous publisher, and We
were then joined by Herr Hjaltalin of Iceland.
The preparations for the trip were so nearly COM
pleted that inspection of the steamer at Leith
was a matter of form rather than necessity. The
Edinburgh and London Shipping Company have
ost pencrouSlv offered to Mr. Field the uSe of their