Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1874-10-23
Dress Refsrm-Mrs. FIfDs's One Garment
What She Proposes 40 Do for the
Suffering Sex


Suffering Sex
lie Toilet says 3 decided effort Is being
made % bring in pattern materials for the au-
tumn and winter season. Whether or not 1t
will succeed a few days viii decide. We think
IL more than probable that the final arrange
ment will be their employment as trimmings
or parts OF the toilet only.
There are ihnumerable varieties Of patterns
broad or narrow stripes, stripes of different
material-such as satin or velvet on silk, vel
vet OF silk on wool-diagonal stripes with lit
tie spots clusters Of mar Ow liz es ZigZag stripes
ana checks Of all sizes and colors-
Another novelty Is the matelasse. This is
silk with a satin face it Is very thick and has
quite the appearance of being quilted, though
in reality the lines producing that effect are
woven in the material. 1t viii be much used
for sleeveless bOdices, pOlonaises, or the front
breadths Of open skirts.
The eagerly adopted fronce and coulisse tot
lets have also been the cause Of an mitatiOn
has all the appearance Of being gathered in
rows. Though very effective, IL viii be far
from useful style, as the lines viii soon be
dfsarranged. and the effect lost
Nelyeteen will be very much worn for out
door dress, either composing the toilet Itself or
some OF IFS adjuncts.
The general tendency Of all outdoor toilet
is to the thickest and coarsest materia ais that
can be procured, and we now see our greatest
elegantes in costumes OF fabrics that We may,
Without eXaggeratlon, say would, year or
two ago, have been worn only by peasants.
These toilets are made up in the simplest
fashion, and, from the very quietude OF their
style, drive to despair those ladies' whose only
idea Of dress IS TO look grandly and expensive
~ dressed. Dresses made up OF these serges,
iimousin, homespuns, beiges, in their myriad
varieties are trimmed with several rows OF
stitching, bias, or rows OF velvet or braid, and
buttons.
Those ladies who were so wise as to profit
by our advice as to preparing for themselves
embroidered trimmings in cOlOred woods for
serge dresses viii be glad they believed in our
d0ubtedly will, that costumes trimmed in
this manner will create an absolute Juror this
season
The thick materials previously mentioned
viii have one very good effeet-thst OF eaus-
ing the pOlOnaises, 50 much favored by all la
dies OF taste, 20 retain their favor; at all
events, through the autumn and winter.
The length OF skirts, according TO the pur-
pose for which they are INTENDED, was def
uitely settled in last months article. There
is also no great novelty as 70 the cut OF bod
ices; they DIT very closely to the figure, and. of
course, the style OF trimming Is little heaV-
Ter in material.
riably the convenient and highly-valued
shape known as the "coat-sleeye,' ~ with It's i'm
mense variety Of parements.
Velvet or braided cloth sleeveless vests and
euiTasse bodies will be very greatly worn.
These can be worn over pclon, Uses TOR out
door wear; or, II the wearer should prefer not
defining her figure, there are great many
different shapes OF pelerines suited 20 the
purpose, 70 be made Of the 81 ne material as
the dress itself,
A great variety of mantles viii be worn. A
species Of "Dolman"-Or, more strictly speak
ing, pelerine-fasJened TO the waist at tina
back and cut ap at the sides, SO as TO give the
effect OF a "Dolman" sleeve, will be very fash
ionable.
The genre Of afternoon and evening toilets
Is still the same in character-the closely
cliuging tablier front, the whole Of the long
and full drapery thrown TO the back, and the
bodice setting very closely to the figure, and
open en- ehale, en- eoeuT, or square.
Excessively large piping cords are worni
and many long dresses, velvet especially,
have thick roll Of waddtng covered with the
same at the edge OF the shirt Sometimes
this is replaced by thick cable Of silk.
Many thick silks, satins and Yelvets, sre
made with plain skirts, and have very rich
appearance They are sometimes raised az
the latter shown is covered with plattings,
Cock feathers are much used as trimmings,
and can be dyed 10 any color, though they
never look so well as in their beautiful natural
slntS.
CURED feathers will be very fashlonably
worn, both as bands and tringes.
Embroidered China Grape TUNES and nchus, |
D. culrssses, VIII be very elegantly worn over
six, satin or velvet
DRESS REFORM.
The Chicago Journal gives the following re- !
port by a woman of a scene at the fourth ses |
lion OF the women's congress held in that |
,ity, when Mrs. Livermore introduced Mrs. |
Flint, the lady who was advertised as being |
)f womens and children's dress. Mrs. Flint /
to display 70 the audience manni- |
Kin arrayed in an elastic garment, which pur- |
ported 10 be at once chemtse, drawers, stock /
ngs and carriers. The garment. though made \
n separate pieces, could be put on in one |
)iece. There is no one who as ever attempt /
q to put on all the different necessary chill |
iren's garments on a squirming little one out /
viii appreciate the convenience Of this /
ON binstion garment. With them was dis /
played garment OF a similar pattern, de-
igned for girls, with few changes IN the 4
node Of fastening the garment. Bands OF i
ION elastic braid were placed over the /
houlders OF the garment and from the elastic /
Jrsids depending from tllezn other garments /
we're intended to be buttoned. AT this juno /
.ntrance OF representative Of the forbidden /
eX, and who, upon being put out, could be Il
heard in the distance asserting that .'he didn't 1
Know" Mrs. Flint, on being questioned, re-
iponded that the material was woven Inn
ported material, TO be replaced in summer by i
,ossaner flannel; that she was not able 70 MI /
,ne-Q uarter OF the orders she received, and
would be glad 10 have some manufacturer /
AXE hold OF the matter. The next 1
,arnent shown was waist, to which |
he skirt was TO be attached by but
ons at the waist. Here the doll with his
or herr preLernaturally red cheeks was laid
N its face, and another doll Of remarkably
proportions was brought for
ward This figure was supposed TO represent ]
lady, and was dressed simply in an elastic
hirt, with band, on the under side Of which
he cotton drawers were 70 be buttOned four
inches below the waist. From a second row
{ buttons the other drawers ana the stock
ngs were to be suspended. This obviated all
ecesslty for numerous bands about the waist,
,ext ca ue a red-1aDnel vest, the cloth i'm
orted BY A. T stewart, but the fashion be-
ag o. Mrs. Fin Is devislng. The value OF this
srment was said 70 be that IL was an aodOm-
nal support, and had its fullness
rOperly arranged about the shoulders
nd breast To this garment were more
lastlc straps and buttons and bUttOn-holss
.uery from a lady in the audience-"Is
mere any law against any lady's initiating
1ese garments? Mrs. Flint-"rhere is (moSt
IL has taken all the money
ould raise and scrape 20 have IL SO. 1 want IL
Understood that no lady must take any hints
ON this for her own use" (Murmurs Of de-
Did so cheap that no lady can afford 10 do IL.
10 individual, man or woman, must make, 10
'as shown an underdress Of white cotton
10th, long, slender, without gathers, Intend
3 to buGgon collars and cuffs upon, and 10
,ke the place OF sktit. @rs. Flint then
epped forward TO display the sty!e OF outer
Iess she wore. II was black silk, well /
lffied up the front, and the waist being simp- {
nat She was two hundred pounds in
eight. (Buzzing ana laughte in the ,
rowd.) she had discarded corsets, and !
slated how the ightness OF the armhOles OF
wash ed dress had led her into train Of
bought which resulted in her present style A.,
dress. Mrs. Livermore interrupted the
leaker TO say that Mrs. Flint had stated, In l
rivate conversation, that IL at LADIES' who
ere troubled by changes in their figure,
Ould adopt this loose style Of dress, they
ould d nj nature would take care Of these 3
atters. Mrs. LivermOre wished to know
hat she should do when she was "aii gone"
" want OF the support Of corsets2 =
A voice-SIake a little wine for the stOn- 4
,his sake (Hisses from all quarters.l Mrs. 9
=. Stafford Blake said that every time a Wo- Z
an tightened her corsets, she would be more e
ID more "au goner and all goneT." Dr. Mary '
alker recommended women to take OF q
.eir corsets and have their husbands rub
em, as they themselves rubbed their ba-
es, at night on undressing them. A lady re- | 6
arked hat some women who discarded cor
Is had no husbands. [Laughter.l Next
me under1resses were Exhibited, and Mrs.
Int remarked thatOn the cars at night she Il
moved al but her tannels in one garment. d
/ The morning she called other lady travel =
5 in to see how convenient was her style Of y
ess. These garments were al patented, 10 +
otect the manu- tacturerss Next came an n
ltside garment Of inOdOrous waterproof, h
hose look was only improved by the rain.
le pockets were nearly as large as the gar
emit itself. The cloak was all one piece of
9TH, and double-breasted. A protection"
cape was then donned by Mrs. Flint and
e stated that the gentlemen had declared
ese cloaks "nobby." A cloak Of this pattern N
uld be bought, Of American waterproof, :,
r eighteen collars, but the English came at n
rty dollars. The name Of this garment is e
e ''Flint Dust Waterproof" This garment b
also patented. a