The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1874-09-04
When the Birds of Fashion
Homeward Fly.
NEW STYLES AND MATERIALS.
The Numerous Accessories of a Ladv's
Toilet in the Olden Time.

|
| prepared for them The openings or exhibitions
OF new modes at the leading house this fall will
| be somewhat earlier than usual, few establish
meuts having already thrown open their doors TO
| their fair patrons. What change few seasons
have brought around In the realms Of fashion !!
Dress improvers Of all kinds, ho0ped skirts and
the IKE have disappeared, and the ciinging skirts
OF the present day are apt to give q scarecrow
look to very tall and thin figures when not
judiciously adapted. Even hats and bonnets
possess not o particle in common with their
predecessors Of q few years ago. The change
Is, in many respects, happy one, as there
Is 0 greater degree oil latitude permitted in taste
and more regard for adaptabllity observed. La
dies generally consult their own individual taste
now IN solving the vital question ''what to wear.n
The endless variety OF styles and materials enables
them to do this efectually and the cunning art OF
the modste has reached its most successful point.
AUTUMN HUEs AND MATERIALS.
The approach Of the melancholy days." when
the earth viii be strewn with rustiing leaves and
the sward viii change its verdancy for the yellow
hue OF autumn, is indicated IN many OF the new
shades. Tnere Is the puce, dark gray; also the
''Byron," prune; 'Carmelite," reddish brown;
"violetta," the same in still darker shades: Aca-
/ jou," mahogany brown. and "Syene," new pur-
! pie. There Is also new shade OF garnet, called
"Cineraire," and Irls" prune color.
All these are very dark. There are also peculiar
shades in silks coming under the general name OF
| "Vendanges," wine colOrs or vintage hues, the
most prominent OF which is called Bordeaux"
! The most elegant winter silks deep brown,
blue, maroon, plum claret, gray ana green. Navy
blue WIN still retain the avOr 1t attained last
son. In black silks-w hich can never lose their
prestige-the heavy grOs grain is yielding in The
taste Of the votares OF fashion to those OF the fine
and soft finished order The heavy silk fabric
called INA telasse," rival TO velvet shows TO ad-
vantage when made up in sleeveless Jackets and
dotted over at intervals with large jet beads. 1t
can be procured in every color, and is rathec
expensive reaching as high as $40 yard.
Striped black silks are likely to be In de-
mand this fall, and also novelties in colored
silks, some of the latter being striped with cameo
effect. In camels hair goods there is an immense
| variety, the prevailing color being grays browns
ana dark ecrus, and the same difference existing
In texture. Merino, mohairs, alpacas aud Empress
CLOTH at prices OF all sorts, also claim attention.
TRAININGS.
The rage Tor jet trimming continues undated
1t is combined with black lrnges, intertwined and
variously united in myriad forms aad presenting
rare forms OF beauty. Some iringes are entirely
OF JET, with narrow passementerie heading.
Black laces are glitterpg with the same some
times in tracings like the stem Of leaf and more
frequently resembling dew drops In Europe
manufacturers are still at work upon the Yak
laces IN black, and are covering them with jet.
But, popular as jet Is and VIII be, the finest
dealers, who make TRIMMINGS speciality,
have invested also in the "biue" Steel This
indeed Is the novelty proper Of the season in the
way or garniture, and Will undoubtedly, be pat
ronized to q certain extent by the 6i6gantes mas
muca "a the effect is not 80 striking TO appear
cloud" The blue Is dark, aad united as 1t fire.
quently is with jet, the appearance Is greatly
subdued and shaded. Jet Iringes OF delicate pat
terms are intertwined strand with strand. OF
the blue steel, the other OF the JET Fine back
laces are also strewn with blue steel. Passemen-
terle is IN highest iavor but always combined
with fine jet or steel beads. Powered patterns
are continued, and with graceful effect, but there
is an evident tendency to depart from these ideas,
SQUARE 20
some broad varieties presenting the appearance
OF passementerie and spaces OF equal left va
cant.
purple, blue and the like are used embroidered
designs upon co0red silks house wear, al
though the pyoronce effect will hardly be regarded
with lasting favor. Embroidery Will be very
fashionable especially In woollen goods. where it
win irlnclpaily be used in two colors, harmonzing
be made TO revive the popularity OF satin as a
dress trimming.
The air OF simplicity which pervadcs the prom
enade suits OF tue present dag Is the most attrao-
is the crit. ron ana PLAIN, dark colors simple
designs anu unobtruslve styles OF garniure the
rule skirts are worn rus terre-iust escaping
the RrOund-and even wnen they are made
demi.train as matter OF utility, they are short
ened for street wear by many ingenious means. AS
the ungraceiul method OF clutchiBg the skirt IL II
bunch in the middle OF the back or at Que side,
setting ASIDE the fatigue imposed, seriously inter-
Tered with iocomotlon and Glsarranged the entire
OF the costume, far as the SKIRT dfap,ry Of
the 0vergarment was concerned. TO render the
costumes more distinctive Tor the purpose tne
/ a
duce the effect, is the leading style. The polonalse
long. reacning nearly or in some instances quite
to the bottom OF the skirt, which Is most ire
quenty trimmed with only single plated or
me zenoDia polonaIse ls an excellent design for
the handsome wooIlen goods OF The season, espe-
cially the heavier qualities. The skirt may ne
either o. the same material or OF silk oil lighter
darker SHADE than the polonase. The Marguerite
polonase is cut IN the style rom which IL derives
its nane-that Is, 1t is cut plain, ike basque Tor
a short distance below the waist line in the back,
with the requisite iulness Tor the skirt impaired
by box plats let in at The seams This design
communicates long wasted, slender erect
more especially when 1t Is TRAINED with perpen-
dicuar bands. As rule, the poiouaise is always
more becoming to snors persons, particularly il
they are incnned toward ea.oonpotnt, thai
reason they should adopt the perpendicular bands
lor trimming, when are now so fashionable.
The 'Dop n1n" jacket mas "a narroa French pack,
and Is slashed 20 the waist line At the Dack ana
side seams. IL straight around the bottom, es,
III lact, are many OF the basque ana JACKET de-
slrns OF the season. thus bringing them under tue
general appeIason OF "cuifass," which name is
most properly applied to plain, round, tight
lifting sleeveless basque. For the early season
there is q variety OF graceful designs for wraps in
THE D0LMAN STYLE
which are made not only IN back. which being the
most practical Is the most popular, but in gray,
trimmed with embroidery to match, interspcrsed
with steel beads, and III the "Diaekn blue and
| "olacko green shades OF CASHMERE handsomely
embroidered with Jet BEADS intermixed on the
green ana blue steel on the blue. The PLAIN
tilia with seams on The shoulders, Is always "a
graceful garment and, made III black can be used
with q variety OF dresses. For heavy cloths aud
winter materials there Is almost endless
variety oil designs Tor Jackets. These are wor1
Slightly longer tnan last season, ana double
breasted designs are the favorite.
SIX skirts VIII overgarn.ents Of stylish woollen
materials form the most dSti,ique street costumes.
The skirt, not black, should lie OF the same Color
and is often onsdered most stylisn II OF tue same