Connecticut western news., 1874-10-09
Fashion Notes.

New Parisian suits, says fashion journal, have simpler aprons. larger tournures, and shorter skirts than those at present in vogue here, as will be seen when imported dresses appear on the street. The fancy for dressing the neck very high and elaborately, for wearing almost tight sleeves, and of using belts with all dresses, prevails abroad as we'll as here. The cuirass is worn with ali costumes, from the plain est to the richest. 1t may have either the French or English back, but has no postilion pleats, and is deeper than or dinary basques. Its trimmings are as flat as possible, and usually follow it's outlines. There is also fancy for trimming it down the middle of the back with 8 sloping piece of the trim ming that tapers at the waist and widens below it. The front is frequent ly entirely plain, and the neck has al- ways collar, usually standing and faring, though some of the newest dresses have turned-down collars, pointed behind. The sleeves are tight fitting, without much cuff, and that al- ways shaped closely to the arm. Sleeves most often are of different ma terial from that of the basque, thus giving the cuirass effect Shoulder seams are exceedingly short, and con- sequently the upper part of the coat sleeve is rounded out very high on the arm. Black silk cuirasses have jetted or else velvet sleeves; black velvet cuirasses have sleeves of silk or else of almost entire jet surface; black cash mere cuirasses have silk sleeves striped hro at M. tan mohair braid. Over-skirts are in great variety of shape, but usually re- tain an apron front, and in many cases are merely aprons. The French aprons are often shorter than those worn here. The variety is given by the back dra- pery, which is often laid in pleats, or hangs in two straight fiat tabs. The conspicuous feature in lower skirts is the use of the treble or quadruple box pleat, extending the whole length of the back breadths, and, indeed, formed of those breadths. This large Vatican pleat is usually lined with thin crino- line to hold it in place, and is further secured by tapes sewed across under heath. This is new and very pretty substitute for the rows of founces that were formerly placed across back breadths when the upper skirtis merely an apron. Two or three large bows with dropping loops made of the doubled silk of the trimming are placed down this pleat. When worn over 8 Pompadour hustle the effect of this flowing drapery is very good. Many dresses designed to be worn with the long and comfortable cloaks to be re- vived this winter have tablier trim ming and this Vatican pleat, and thus dispense with separate over-skirt. Flounces are held by many rows of shirring, notwithstanding the preva- lence of thick materials. They are bias when gathered, and straight when pleated. The lower edge of gathered bias founces is finished with knife pleating, or with French hem, or else with a bias piping fold sewed directly on the edge of the founce the latter plan is seen on plain and elegant dress es alike. A good deal of reversed pleating is again used on black silk skirts. There is the same tendency noted each season to do away with quantities of founces, and many skirts are shown with but one founce; the average number is two, very few have three founces, and some extremely rich black silks have none at all.