New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-05-09
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.
PROJECT FOR AN AMERICAN PROTEC-
TORATE,

spRcIAI AGENT Undressing DESCRIPTION OF
THE SAMOA, OR NAvIGAToRs IsIANDs-A LIVE
popo sECURED-A PRIMITIVE PEOPLE UNDER
MISSIONARY INFLUENCE - ovERTUREs FOR
UNITED STATES PROTECTION.
The following report on the Samoan or Naviga-
tors Islands, in the South Pacific, has been made
10 the Secretary of State by Col A. b. Stenberger
SIR: Pursuant to instructions from the De-
partment of March 90 1879 have the honor to report
That sailed from San Francisco June %, on the
chartered plot-boat Fanny, schooner OF forty
three tons, for Samoa. or Navigators ishhus'
Besides the crew. was accompanied only by prao-
teal artist. who also acted as secretary. En- route
touched at Honolulu, where learned that the san
Francisco newspapers had preceded me. Hence VooA
immediate occasion TO assure His Majesty King buhao
that was in no wise accredited to his government anu
that newsvenders In this in many other cases "ere
irresponsible agtators. Not unmindfu OF your oral
suggestion that might be an observer, accepted
AN invitation TO visit Pearl River Harbor and, nome
ward-bound, again touched at Honolulu, and wme
awaiting repairs to vessels availed myself OF the op-
portunty to visit sugar-esates and learn something oI
the Hawaiian Islands.
EXTERNAL FEATURES OF THE ISLANDS.
On the 9th day Of August sighted Manua the eastern
most island of the Samoan group, the center OF inc
island being in south latitude 1io H. west longitude 10y
&c. There being harbor in Manua and wishing 10 re-
serve an exploration OF the island until later Jay
sailed for Tuiuila and the nth day OF August at
O'Clock a. m. anchored i'm the harbor OF Paso faso,
inside OF Swimming Point and abreast the village OF
Facatono in IA fathOms water, about stones throw
from the beach south latitude lao 49, west Longitude
l7C 40.
In locating places give specific points in haroors OF
anchoraces which will account for triflng variations
from charts Wilkes being marvelously correct in his as
Economical observations and photographic surveys OIL
this group. 1 shall ignore the term Navgators' as
the word is unknown TO these islanders they being
people OF themselves with history, language. and ira
ditions omuonuy Samoan. The Samoan group consists
Of nine inhabited islands, viz: Manua Ooosngs oioo
ANU, Tutuila, Upolu, ManonO, ApOlima, ana SaVal'
There are four stretching beyond the reef upon the
eastern end OF Upolu Nuulua Nutal, Tapotapu' aud
Namoa also an isolated iset between Manono and Apo
lima called Niuapo Neither of these isets Is what IS
termed coral island Though separated from the larger
ones by shoals and coral reefs yet they are all OF the
same formation and physical structure as the main
land Tho entire north and SOUTH Is between la
81 and lio IS south latitude and extends from l69 70
west ongitude 1929 As west longitude. The water
spaces the islands are free from shoals or outy
Ing reefs while the island headands are certain guides
TO the navigator Strong currents frequently set through
the channels and, beating to windward especially with
squaeigged vessels eDgthon the passage between the
Islands.
The prevailing winds southeast trades. which are
uniform than the northeast trades at times strong
but seldom approaching gale The entire group is OF
volcanic formation but everywhere gives evidence OF
great antiquity, though in 1866 great column OF fire
burst forth the ocean, between Manua and Ooo-
singa and rose like pillar 10 the hight OF thou
sand feet continuing for q period
OF two weeks, and then subsidized And now it is diff
cult to get souudngs the place. This is
fanny anomaly in the history of Samoa. Although
extinct volcanoes found upon all the islands yet no
Of their eruptions is found in native history
tradition. The islands seem 10 have been lifted from
the oceanbed by mighty conyulsiOn-a subterranean
upheava previous to the ears crusts being broken.
ANuQUTEs-CAvES.
At Apa told Of ancient work built Of "cut-
stone" about days journey in the mountains. /
visited 1t with native guides and found stone pillars and
slabs for flooring, the whole forming circle The uni
formty of the stones and their smoothness
certainly lookedlhe the sonecuers work These runs
were in a dense forest with heavy growth Of under
brush. Penetrating this found under overhanging
and of fac texfnre The inhabitants have no traces Of
history tradition which throw any light on the sub
Ject ,, ,,,--- A., o.., .o,o
OF the islands, C., from east to west 1he sona sue
generally PERCEPTIONS, forming rough ana broken sea-
front with few narbors or secure anchoragSs upon o
in the coast line where the inner
projected by coral reef stretching across the open
With such exceptions the south coast Is Iron bound
the lava forming level and naked plateau between the
hills anu Here the great swell OF the ocean
breaks continually with deafening roar THESE iaDa
pierced in many places by at the waerIlne or
beneath having vertical openings upon the aIa neds.
Their way through the inner perpendicular opening
form a magnificent jet d'ea,t When the southeast
columns may be seen at great distance from n9 c mann
applies equally well 10 the north side OF inc lsand OF
Tutula. Excepting about onethird OF the lsand-west
end-the mountains rise preelptonsy rom I9s ocean
hight of Matafu the tops pointed aud the sides lndu-
h snS the the
northern descent gradual TO the forming great
plaeaus long stretches OF gentle Slopes aud broad val
Associated with the geological structure of these
the OF SaVall They seem nltnertO 10
have attracted attention. not even the missionaries
having visited them. entered one through welike
opening upon the level ground back OF the village OF
sseaula This opening was caused by the arch Of the
cave breaking. the deDrls being piled upon the floor
the finest railway-tunnel Traversng this cave dis
lance II miles toward the came TO
size and physical structure. This opening followed
nearly mile finding uniform level with good air.
mile, when it branched continuing to the right another
half mile found the roof broken and furher progress
sufficiently large for egress did not determine the full
extent of these suoterranean passages, ! would not
estimate the floor 10 be than 20 feet above the
level of the ocean, while the roof scarcely than
10 feet in thickness This arteral system Of be-
meath wide level stretch of country very heavily
timbered incline TO the belief that they connected
a s Ss ss s IN e hsnn t
doubt account for the freshwater springs upon the
beach in many places. In the bay of Satupatai is
great spring Of sh water so feet from owwater mark
which bos like huge caldron from the rocks beneath
Here the natives battle in fresh water.
VALUABLE TREES.
The warm and equable climate the moisture OF the
atmosphere joined to a vigorous and prolific SOIL have
clothed these islands with varied and uxurian
tston Excepting the shoreiDe Of lava and lava-feld
OF few miles IN area the eastern end Of Sava there
is space Of bare or naked land In the group
The SOL s GSn mold nRon the SoPes and even upon
level tracts deep auvia deposit of the same the
whole decOm position OF vegetable matter with only a
slight proportion decOmposed lava; this being i'm
pregnated with iron makes vigorous tIaDle loain SO