, 1874-05-31
p,tty prones, and Their Manner Of At-
fjra-Nomen Whose World Is
Bounded By Their
Clothes.
T,,kins-skir.s, and Their Style Of
Trimming---Dresses for
Home " ear.
o,oa1.Eeod Observation-Disclosures
ScarCs as A1antlcs.


.eensIlc? Perhaps We did, but NC knew
-, vss before US. May has been lovely.
,arv first day she smiled brightly and
,,.. md. ever since, she has done her repu-
'".;o, full Justice. 4 little Aprilish, and ca
--;.;o,s nercLauce, she has had fearful mood
md again; but she has scorned to storm or
-o,r-h a. sbe sometimes does.
~, bright wea;ber renders Broadway and
,,..,.nuas 60 gay and attractive by reason OF
~. neopls who have nothing to do but to mako
.tansel,es pretty sight for the people who
s.ra everything to do but mako themselves
n-stt7 s;clt for anybody. The population OF
cothsm seems more evenly divided between
-orters and droncs 4 do not use the term Of
f.osi7ely> than any community have sver been
!, Tho workers do more, and the droues less,
than anywhere else.
PRETTY DROSE
r,rked down the avenue, the other day, in front
n No. She was young, and fresh, and sweet to
,o1k upon, and felt euch evidently genuine sat
;af.ction in her dsinty new costu.ne-you
no1,d geo 1t WAS new with half an
.ye-thst your sympathy went out
IN he1. in spite OF your strong and involuntary
o,nvictjoa that the measure Of her world VAS
tia circumference OF her latest gown. Her
xorld. that dav, Was q gray and violet calling
snt which seemed to la-monize perfectly with
the weather as well rs herself. The short, round
.ki,t of the gray silk, WAS made after this NAH
rer. Around the bottom was deep founce OF
the eray slk edged with anticipating OF the
violet, IN inch aud half wide. Above the hem
Of the dounca were three narrow niliiners folds
of gtav, with IN inner fold OF violet. The founce
yas shir.ed the width OF finger and the tuffle
II the top, formed By the shilTing. was lined
With the violet, which showed above the
eiso like fine cord, There we're
:sS tIs on.a a''niss hsf one the dept it1
Of The first, similarly finished with violet, except
tLat the second founce had two folds: and the
third one fold, above the hem The oyerskirs
was long and looped high GU the right side only.
Ehere tie looping was supposed to be sustained
by pretty aumonlere Of the two colors. The
finish oil the overskHt WAS simply tluge1-wide
fringe, of tie two tints, knotted into the hem.
Tic basque had two long, square coat-tails be-
hind, with violet lapeB set into the side seams,
fastened down By handsome, smoked-pearl but
TONS In front, the basque wRs scarcely finger
wide below the belt, which was of folds OF gray
silk set into the under-aIm seams, and fasten-
ing with smoked-pearl buckle IN front.
Tie front OF the waist had p]astron,
to cal it, of violet si1k, buttoned each side,
from the throat to the edge OF the basque, with
buttons like those On the lapels behind The
co.t-taiIs we're finished By . single large. soft
cord Of violet silk; but the basque In front bad
handsome fringe, like that on the oyerskirt-
Tho sleeves were OF violet si1L,-coat-shapo, ct
couYYe; and wide bias band OF gray, lined with
yiolet silk,-the lining showing on each edge
pa.sod round the wrist, fastening with three
buttons on the top OF the sleeve; the flying end
h+ine tr1mmed with fringe Instead Of the now
conventional fraise, the neck VAS finished by
dsriup collar Of gray, lined with violet.
WhT did I observe the costume so closely!
Becauss it was pretty, in the firat place; and,
secondly, because it WAS as plainly on emotion
as though 1t had been labelled in a broadway
1indoH.
YALWNG-sEIRTe,
noz aro Invariably trimmed straight round the
bottom the ugly fashion Of several Kinds OF
rarniture on skirt not three and half yards
Rlde being entirely done away with Naturally:
tpch An opportunity to use materials. and add
s1pense aa the oddly -ornamented tabners and
differently arranged back breadths have given to
the most e1travagans modistes. ls not to DO SUD
denly abandoned; ; aud, inasmuch Rs they have
Welded in the matter Of street-suits, they cling
the mora closely to tue design IN house-dresBes:
They 1.-THE tabliers, I mean, not the moulstes)
Ire much less Objectionable here and arc often
quite appropriate. l have dEees Of this sort IN
my mind now. 1t s light summer silk, intend
I'd for
In the midsummer afternoons and evenings.
The skirt rests On the grouud two or three
inches behind, and is the usual walklng-dress
seams Of the front breadth, is deep, bias
lounce Of silk Like the dress-hair stripes Of
g1ay and whlte knlfe-blade plating OF plain
grsy, An inch and half wide, borders the
founce. and is set in between the edge Of the
aounce and . two-iuch facing Of plain gray, on
tn under aide Of the founce. The facing is
sexed on to tho Aounce by several
.oWs Of machine stitching, d quarter, OF
N inch. apart the chain-stitch show
Ing On the outside. Tue top Of the hounce is
f1cf1 4r 4ha ~. ~ frna
md sbout two inches from the top begina .
hnger-xide ehirring. Tho tablier is covered
nearly to the top with what might be called
shilred bonds. They are made in this way. The
ttrps arc bias, and graduating in width from
tie lowest one, which ls quarter Of yard, to
the heading band, which is four inches. They
III gathered, the space between the rows is IN
inch-the lower space being Lined with plain
g1sJ silk, and SLOWED to lap over the band be-
Low. Ike : rui1e. The heading has but three
roxs Of ehirEing, and has both edges lined with
pan sik. which makes ruftle turn either way.
Ibe bands extend to within twelve inches OF the
belt, when tho top Of the breadth is covered
hlnnly With silk; thiA being more becoming to
~ figure than il the friLed bands reached
the waist. This mods of making tablier is .
8ood md economical way OF renovating an Old
oteaa. Ihe shir1ed bands, it Of black silk, which
seeodbs the Light, or OF striped silk, can bo
Pierced to IN almost uali1aited extent; the full
hs51ang ssncealIng the seams; hays y seen r.
os Of striped silk in it, beside the plain-colored
iacugs. Some Of the scraps were less than two
tnches square, and Of al shapes; but they we're
nndetectole; and the lady who had thus, rs che
caned. styishly clothed herself in rags, re.
sarted the performance IS perfect triumph Of
mind over matter.
THE ovERsK1RT.
any long open overakrt would be pretty with
M: skirt; but the one it has Is made ostcnslbly
Mn three straight breadths, yard and q hall
!mg (of narrow silk, this is hardly full enough,
aaa it's best to piece on strip under, and the
., slah of. the reTcrs.) The front of the over"
tk1H bus straight revers from top to bottom,
uon .!s1 finger to = finger and half wide; made
9tasr Of the striped slk, With buttons, and sim
na'ed buttonholes OF plain silk (as in this caae),
etot plain silk, the button and button holes bo-
@f o. striped stk. To make the draping grace
~ the middle OF the back breadth is cut oper
eni,.ay up, and the bottom OF the skirt and thu.
M.;s M;nloE are finished by large. sott eora o. o.
iGaehlre. Like the bottom OF tho fo1nce. INe
teocpngn in the middle OF tho back are sui
aasut to make the oyershrt h.ng uen,-draTlnt
neNay from the front as much a. denfa1ie t1,i
soa to avoid any necessity OF tying back. Ihe
iY} in ~ to ha