Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-10-31


plain groS grain, and the overdreEs and alro the
taste with which the silk OF which the skirt :
composed and it's trimmings are united upon the
oVerdTtss Fine kptfe pleatings of whits slIk
ganze or grenidlne, pufings of lace or tul!e,
and deep silk fTlnges with netted headings, sur
mounted by fat bands Of feathers, plaiu or
beaied, are all used, but with the utmost art
Iu order 10 conceal art.
Complete tOilettes are also made Of the we've
striped fabrics, the stripes showing diLersnt
widths upon the skirt, the apron, and the
b2sqBe. But the5e Or, sses have the merit OF
novelty only, They are offensiy ely striking, not
10 say Zebraish in anpe lrapce.
NEw WINTER CLoAKs.
There IL an effort TO revive clOaks this se8-On.
and prospect that II will be 81 least psVtisl.y
sucCe' Slul. The most practical deSlgus
rather long, and cut in,o the figures so a. To De
hrely shaped without being tight-ftting. They
are made OF gray, dark blue, and black "vei-
vet Goth or English tricOt, bOriercd With tur
ard finished with sleeves cut rather vide at the
vlists. ard long pointed hood ~ the SEX rot
so broad anC much more dreCsy than the .UI-
SteT' hood.
rhese closks are very gracefully worn over
pain deml- l-tIained skirts ami with mutt and boa
matching the iur trimming. velvet bonnet
or even pretty felt hat, constitutes toilet that
Is 0i, in 2u she
There are much more fauciful cIoaks ard
mGCh more costly ones OF matelssse Quilted
silk faced with velvet, but they require a GER
tain siy1 OF dress 20 go with them and can only
be properly worn by ladies who can afford TO
have their entire dress in harmony with All ex-
penslve and exceptional garment. ia scSets, o
course, Will be popular as ever. MANY atready
pCsSe5s them, ara many Others can better afford
- buy something already CONN on and in the
market than garment which must be made 70
Oroer and Of which only few have vet been
seen. Fur trimmings freshen up old iacker.
wonderfully, ard their present pO pu!srIty -ug-
geStS method by which Old garments can be
utilized and an air of fashion impaired to them
at comparatively small expense.
very marked difference has been made v ith-
10 the p2st two or three years IN the cut OF
dI6-1e and outside garments, differeI &c t.
which attention has been from time to time
called, bat which even vet many persons. o.
Pecially dreSsmakeTs among orh er fail TO realize
Ibis is in the high, close cut Of dresses and ont
side garments. The back is very rsrrow
seneredy without side forms, the sleeve seam
high on the shoulder, the side sd 4p cd IN TO th-
restricted outline of the Ggure irstead OF being
'ett loose and Gaggy ss lOrmerly.
If thls form is carefully ObseI we'd IL will give
Al appearance Oh ''styie" to the simplest dress
while without il they will be dOW,iy and old no
matter how rich the material
An autumn costume that is new here has sn
ar OF distinction tnat is quite ekcspttOn4ble. Il
consists Of plain velvet walking sklst and q
csTel's hair polonaise, with velvet Engitsh col
lar, cuhs, buttons and sash. A light gray feif
hat, usus ly matching the sGe OF the camel,
hair cloth. Is trimmed " irh velvet matching the
sSiTt. and facing upon the pOlOnase, with the
addition Of long ostrich feather, the longer
ard more natural the better. The color OF the
velvet always black or brown. Some ladies' utII-
lZe an CID silk sEIrt by trimming II Up with vel
vet hVuECes and part over 1t q Camel's hair Do
oba'se, with the .eguiar velvet nOuv ting, w.lh
gCo1 LtsGf' :, Dat the ItI.E walking skirt OF vel
vet 's more elegant.
Opera cloaks still retain The Dglman shque
thoush some are made IN Sue circular form
imported ones are usually either embrO.deFer
III cOioTs or MADE OF striped Ksbyie cIOJh. th-
pTetUIest novelty iCr opera ClOahtnR OF Iqe sea
s0n' IL consists ot stripe OF white dCessy vel
vet, alternating with a stripe " thick nelt. a
silk. kbotted silk and chenille fringe is useC
Tor trimmings. BeaGtltIi cIoaks have beeI
made CT white grC5 grain lined ard guiiied.
and Il I'M med with White fur, ana Others OF whit.
mateiasEse silk, with SILK aud pearl gl1p O
IassemeDterie put On as ,embroidery, ard whit.
ostrich feather bordet.nZ.
FASHIONS IL FURE.
FuTs are nov accepted aS part Of he is5vit4
bic, and are, taken moderately, bOtl useful an
becoming additions TO q lady's WaIdE, Oe. q.
the purchase OF he lvy garments, such - EsA..
skin So cqUes, by peIsOps who must weaT tass
at al times with all sorts OF dresses. becsls,
they canrot afford ans variety to their ward
robes, ls S mistake through which they ulus.
sBHeF. A seal-skin sacqUe rs only becoming aIt
elegant when the costume hsrmOuizes with h
When hantsome dress and bonnet, unexcer
tOnahle gloves, and other acceSsious harrnDDiZ
in color and extend the air of rich sobriety /
the entire costume. 1t is, however, very ex
lersiye, (if it is good, and a IOOT one Is no
'Eorth hayiDe,l and can be had perhsps only ~
the sacrihce OF something else very much need
cd ard under the circumstances moro desif able.
These things should be taken into consideration
before deciding upon so costly purchase.
A seal or beaver, on the contrary, consisting
OF muf and boa, is very desirable possession
for ladie. whose tastes are quiet and refined snd
WHO CIre more Tor durability and tneness than
Tor the wbim OF the moment in the selection OF
their tuTs. a handcOme mink set is perhap,
more desirable, but il is also more costly ana
Dot within the reach of every one. Mink i
always ''well wOTB, ;" but the fashionable furs OF
the season are silver fox and chinchilla.
Both are what are called Clancy fuss. deriy-
ing their Importance from the caprice OF fashion
ana not nom their intrinsic merits. Both are
however, very besutIful furs. though less dura-
ble than the darker ones, and both this season
are costly, partly because there is scarcity in
the supply. pertly because they have been
elected 10 lead the relgning modes.
III common fuTs black mAIten skunx) and
arctic lynx, the latter strong, useful fur
though coarse, are the most popular. Both are
lOTg haired and II the antecedeHts of one were
more agreeable IL would be admired for irs
beautY. IL is usually made up in iss natQrsi
colCr, and is we'll looking, as well as ,eful ana
economical. 1t is sometimes called instead of
black marten, Alaska sable.
There Is no change in the shape Of the muF
ana boa, but the seal cap is turned up at toe
sde and Is shaped exactly like the ordinary felt
hat.
A new combination OF the muff and boa has
alto been introduced from Germany, which con-
sists OF boa which crosses upon the chest aud
INTO the ends of which a sort of cornucOpia-
shaped mitten is introduced. which serves "A =
poe ket for the hands. II il not likely 10 super-
ceGe tie Iauf, ct least at present.
JIMMIE ,TrNV