, 1874-05-17

The Ideal Warm Weather GoHn-The Ac-
tual Gowns hcapatity for
Recreation.
Airy Fabrics of the Season --. Their
Tendency to Muftifarfous
Blossoming.
Partisan Novelties --- Becoming
ness the Product Of
Chance.
From Our Olrn Correspondent.

From Our Orn Correspondent.
NEW YORK, May 49, 1874.
You have found cut as well as ne, OF course,
that we IRE to hnye no spring. It isn't much Of
a disappointment, because nobody hore had ex-
pccted We should have. Every one predicted re
should have suulmer-days close On the heels Of
winter; and. for once, every one Is right. Al
though the LIST OF May WAS pleasant. SNOW lay
on the ground and, . week later, the thermorne-
ter. without word Or warning, quietly betooL
itself to ST degrees in the shade. Long
experience has wonted us to this sort Of thing
and, beyond q change from dark fragments to
light, and a passing II told you ao," no native
pays any attention to it. But it Is u never-end~
ing eource Of astonishment to the arrived and
coustantly-arriging English travellers, who find
no words to express their amazement at our CHI
matte peculiarities.
The frst hot day is nors depressing to the
modistes business than all the rest OF the year.
Every woman feels that happiness-anothar
name for coolness-is only attainab1e in wash
ablo wrapper, and, having that. nothing further
is needed. In July and August, when ne are
used to warmth. and discomfort has
grown stale, we may rise to think
OF moro important matters OF toilette but,
with the first gasp1ng for breath, fashion and
{ripperies fade before comfort and common
sonse. II they would only stay faded, OF ii
they would only give place to, OF set the seal OF
mode on, pla in and practical forms OF summer
garments, what pleasure, and health. and good
looks, might be gained from possible enjoy
ment Of our brief play-spal!
THE IDEAL GOWN
for sultty weather ia one that We can walk IN,
sit in lounge in, lie down IN, thoushtless or care.
less whether it ia soiled, OF mussed. OF rendered
unwea1sble without trip to the laundry: IT + is
woman without fear that it will return
in remnants from her hands. 1t is one that shall
not tempt us to wear it au instant longer than 1t
is immaculate, through mistrust that the bill TOR
its doing-up will be more than the cost OF the
fabric.
Alas how far have we departed from tho ideal!
It positively gives one headache to try to solve
the riddle Of the now dresses IN mualln, and
linen. and lawn! You can discover at glance
the uscessuess OF hoping that they can ever be
re-create in the hands Of oven tho most sldllful
French laundress It is time thrown away on
her part. and money on youra, to attempt to In
prove tllem after tho manner OF their Nnd.
Let their frat freshness go, and they are gone
forever. Nobody could expect but tlat SKIRTS
whose front breadths are shifrod, whose sida
breadths are plaits or folds, Whose back breadths
are covered With all devices Of intricate and in
comprehensive flouncos, should resent the in
dignitles Of the wash-tnb, and refuse to be re-
newed.
H1ASTuAS BoS-BoSs.
The delicate and seasonable fabrics are really
tnrued into what might be called mantuan bon
bons, SO pretty, and seductive, and unservicea-
BILE are they don't SUPPOSE there "a feml1
soul doesn't sigh for at least one Of these trlfes
light as air. You wouldn't be above it your
oen, if you should pause for FIVE minutes before
al organdie, or null. or Swiss, put together ~
u a..xr
Many OF tbs daintiest robes are Of pale. tinted
lawns, instead of white. Pink, blue, green, rose,
mauye, gray, lavender, bud, and ecru, are all
seen, and make very dressy and grateful con-
trasts to the prevalent white OF former seasons
Not that anything can bo 30 delicate aud charm
ins ns white; but room full of women all hab-
tied in colorless garments is too suggestive OF
ghoBt-party to be perfectly artistic. 4 dash OF
color, now and then, helps wonderfully in the
tout-ensemble OF q warm-weathar gathering
The combining Of two shades, or OF ono color
md white, continues even in thin fabrics. OF
course, it isn't wise to put two shades
into anything likely to be washed;
for the chances are, that one or both will run
forever. But whoever heard of wisdom in the
head Of fashion? It will, therefore, be quite AZ
common to see pink and blue, blue and buff,
ecru and green, tea-rose and rose.plnk IN the
same costume Of lawn or muslin, as in gros-grain
or taf1eta- Then, for those Who prefer . dress
OF one kind, there are inch-wide striped muslins
Of colors and white. The skirts Of these are
often looped in the back in pannler-pufts, while
the front breadth is sh1rred from belt to knee,
below which, and reaching round the skl5t, are
one OF two plated founces, the plaits laid 80 as
to bring the colored stripe on top:
The old-;ime Gabrielle, modeTnly called Prin-
cess, form is ono Of the most popular for all
stuffs intended for the house. Indeed, dressy
organdies over silk slips are frequently cut thus
for evenings.
NEW FRENCH MODEL
for this style is in this wise: Plain Gabrielle
slip Of pale-blue taffeta. cut very low, heart-
shape, IN the neck the sleeves nearly tight to
the and ons aq,c TO t1e tbe
form; bat, before the muslin is cut, it is laid in
bo1-pisits an inch and half vide, with an equal
space between. Thus, when the breadths are
put together, the robe is entirely composed Of
all manner Of directions. is avoided
by inch-wide bias bands Of tine tucked muslin
inserted in each seam, and bordered by narrow
frills OF Valenciennes lace on each edge. The
bottom Of the muslin robe is finished by an
eieht-plaited dounce Of the muslin, trimmed
with Ta}enciennes. Tho founce, instead Of
being set up on the ekirs is placed upon the e1-
.xeme edge, and the plaits spread prestily over
closed I By cunning bows Of silk like the slip, III
each one Of which pink rose or half-opcn bud
is caught The sleeves Of the oyerdrcss are OF
palled muslin, and tit closely to the silk sleeves
to the elbow below which they terminate in
double yuf1es Of muslin bordered by
lace. On the left sleeve, HALFWAY
between shoulder and elbow, = blue bow aud
rosebud aro coquettish1y caught The neck hAs
an upright rufle Of organdie, lace-edEed and
With lnce-insertion, and inside chemisette OF
valonciennes. A little auulonlere of muslin,
and lace, and silk, and rose-buds, hangs at ths
right side and holds the delicate handkerchief,
laced to match the dress.
THE USE OF FLOWERS
is distinguishing. characteristic Of the new
You see them everywhere !:
on tue shoulder, on the sleeves, on tho pockets,
on the little bows peeping out from every possi-
bic corner, fold, or plat, on the neck
and on the hem. The flowers placed
upon the robes by modistes, naturally,
are artificial; hut, when the gowns are worn,
these will, in many instances, give way to the
genuine sweet-scented roses, and violets, and
heliotropes. aud carnations, which Nature has
prepared for the daintiest adorument Of her fair
ast children
NOVEL NOTION
is to USE the 1oTey French foulards for slips un-
der muslin, and orskirts under white poonaiaes.
It is an excellent idea, because foula1d is light
md cool; has deIica.e lustre, softer than that
~ tafYeta gilk aud mora intause than that of