New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-07-29
THE FASHIONS.
|, LuLL AMONG TIE MoDIsTEs.

CENT COSMETICS -RUMORs OF IhE fNh
FASHIONS BALL AND TRAVELLING DRESSES
BOOTS AND SHOES. .r
Somebody has said there is nothing new but
what has once been Old and assuredy the caprice OF
fashion IN our own time has justified the saying. What
reviyals have not been in these days OF change
Jeweiry Esruscan, jewelry Roman, jewelry Egyptian
taste for golden hair, mediavalsm in furniture ana
architecture and perhaps If one knew the fashions OF
Nneyeh of old one night discover precedent for the
latest fashion bonnets out that which placest
on the apex Of the hair. great many witty things
have been SAID about fashion but it yet remains Tor
some writer 10 arise and perform for the "Physioo0'e
du Godt," as applied TO dress, the service which
famous author rendered In respect TO tho arts Oh TUG
table. Some light surely would be thrown on human
nature II could clearly understand why tho bonnet
has shrunk from the colossal eoascuttle TO the dimen
sjons exceeded by the miners bill, while mans nat
maintaps It's grave respectable, cylindrical shape for
ever and ever. Aud quite in the DARK as 10 why
the target OF csrcaturst the balloon sRrteuddeny
and my sterionsy sinks into the semoance OF penny
trumpet. All know the origin OF the hoop; ana many
other eccentric fashions which bhndly followed
arose from the desire TO conceal physical deformties
Henry H. had an ugly scar his neck consequently
he was the platform OF lace under MS
chin. lcen Elizabeth. whose throat was yellow ana
thin, wore the highest and stih'st run In Europe
Countless yards of gold and silver Lace needeworK ano
cutwor6. giered with the sparkle OF precious stones
and spanslcs build UP her hreepied ruff In 1873 the
fair Rcint NargO the table, under the necessity
Of using spoon with handle two feet long In order TO
preserve tho immaculate stiffness OF her run from the
soup ppiy this is not the age OF starch
"FashiJH" cried the avore preacher OF James l. "has
brought IN deep rus and shallow rufs, thick rufs and
min ru;T ohe rnf and no ruffs. When the Judge OF
The qncA and the dead shall appear He will not know
those who defaced the fashion de hath created
Aud alo,..r worthy Bishop, in denouncng the lash
ions o. tue times cTied clear this, ye plaisteriaced
JzI0.ls; Il ye vii not leave off your dauOs and your
Washes /. ayen will one day wash them OF with IRE
ana birthstone" Though face enameing is carried on
now - considerable extent the preachers OF the pres
ent AZ POLITELY condone these lille vaIities
To return TO rus is glad 10 note the decline In
their h:st and to observe that delicate ears are no
longer scra cicd by their stiffness The re-adoption OF
the most costly lace Of all feminine caprices the most
pardonatlc ana elegant; and the rufus are soft,
suite rtps SSe with inside JGiSe of finest Nalen-
rieaDe, point Mechn. aud lovely frills to
match ian The hand. 1t is scarcely possible that
vii again to 80 alry-like fabric as lace,
though lac has famous an example as William Ill,
whose lace bills absolutely frightiul; for his "a
uIgLsLsts The lace cost S99 los, aud $4,000 year
scarcely paid his lace Point deAeneOn OF the
eighteenth century revived again in 1861 and is the
most exquisite and costly OF all aces, beng made en-
tIrey Dy hand thick parchment patterns with the
finest of needles, the pattern being pricked on the
parchment. then traced with thread on coarse linen;
next the ground netting is made and then the flowers
worked All this requires the WORK Of Ia persons
Vonlce point is also extremely The Italians. who
invented forks and made all Europe follow the fashions
they set III the fifteenth century, claim the inven-
ton of point allneede-worked lace needle
work. however, has an early instance in Exodus Of
Aholiar, tie famous embroderer in blue. and Pen
elopes should not be forgotten. In 1925 Forenne
poet charming little Of poetry on the laced
point made by the dainty fingers Of the lady he loved
Flanders insists upon the invention Of lace. and TO
by In fha
fourteenth century. Thread lace, the lace dear TO
our American heart, belongs to Spain early 1892
and the spanish lace aud Spanish blonde fashionable
manufactured IN La Mancha The exquisite
Brussels lace made Of thread fine that the fax is
spun under the ground in dark room, that it may not
come in contact with the dry air Sometimes the
OF ITS manufacture is the sole fortune Of the child
descending from impoverished house. the last
hap OF noble who grows pale and fragile as the
cobweb threads in her delicate fingers and it may be
blind. over the fabrication. Brussels lace follows
in pattern the fashions of the day.
Mechhn lace again revived and is very fashionable
the flower formed by fiat thread and gives 1t an
appearances OF embroidery. IL is light and pretty
that brightly tinted silk or ribbon glows beneath
Its fne meshes like sunbeams through a ieecy cloud.
George l. devoted 10 Mechlln cravats, and the
beaus of past century wore cambria shirts trimmed
with Malnes lace. dyed with coffee grounds. If it had
not been for Napoleons passion for lace the exquisite
fsbrcs Of Chaniy Brussels, and AlencOn would have
been lost forever More than thirty Of the rarest aces
were lost to US through Marie AntOnete and aferward
the French Revolution. For twelve the manufac-
ture nearly ceased, but revived under Napoleon
TO q great excess Lace fell with the BoWbons, but
now all over tho civilized world the passion has re-
riyed and with the Point Bruxelles, MaDes, and
Caleucienues, enormous quantity OF Chantlny gui-
Spanish blonde and Cuny used together with the
.oarser and heavier Yak Delicate French lace bears so
close resemblance fine thread that 1t Is largely USED
ND dina toilets.
with let which runous to real lace unless OF strong
fabric Queen Victoria has made many Efforts TO revive
HoDiton, but her success is rather doubtful
Walls are being worn to greater extent t5aD for many
vears before The vail itself is simply piece Of IN
trimmed dotted or plain Brussels net tightly drawn
pver the face, many instances fastened TO the head
before the hat is put The taste Is questionable
which can discard the beautiful thread lace walls OF
few years back Gossip says the passion for walls arises
from the fact OF the many arts used 50 extensively for
the complexion eyes, eyebrows, and ashes The bstre
shadow beneath the eye the darkenng OF the brow and
lashes and enameng OF the skin, certainly very
common and are applied not only by artistes, but
privately by ladies themselves An excellent
aud innocent cosmetic used by the Orentas
Is made Of jasmine p0made and benZon- This looks
Ike a thick white cream, and brings lovely but
transient bloom 10 the cheeks For simple and harm
less cosmetic one recommend tncture of benzoin
added TO water until it milky hue and con-
sistence This is a fragrant wash and infuses life into
sluggish blood Another is medicated soap melted and
made into balls with finely ground oatmeal. Oatmeal
and buttermilk together possess wonderfully beautfy
ing qualities, aud oatmeal by itself occupies
place OH many washstands stepped IN water in small
ouaptlt,es Its balsamic qualities and gutiuous oiness
make the flesh beautifully soft aud white. A little
lemon Juice may pc added advantageousy.
Since women have been hunted out Of crnOline, the
sfyle OF a