The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1874-09-02
MnrHE i1assaeasa Esihst Bssals Abepf
s,x,s - - a

| from his Letters TO the Cincinnati Commercially
| The story that is blown about the world
concerning Rejkiavik e, that IL Is q parcel of
black hats covered with turf, aud chat the
houses are scattered along two streets, close
to the shore, and nre insignificant nod
squalid. Now The town Is very respectable
In appearance. The mostprominent and the
| most numerous houses seen from the sea are
| frames aud stone, painted light eolors and
| covered with slate. Many Of them are OF
two and some Of three stories. A great deal
| il said of the fiShy smell that pervades the
place. There is only little more foanda-'
ton for that than for the tale that is told
that Cincinnati is dlrefHlly infested by hogs.
| One certainly smells fish upon landing here,
for these waters are full OF 6ne fish, aud they
are actively pursued and carefully pre-.
served. About the landing are many cords
of them Quilted and beheaded, undergoing
an atmospheric curing or awaiting transport
tation. $50 X ~ 81
| On stepping ashore the first thing the
geoogist notices is the volcanic character Of
every stone and pebble and grain Of sand.
The beach Is not white, but black. The
gravel on the streets has the appearance Of
black lead. The door.stcps are blocks Of
black lava, honey"combed by the intensity
Of the heat to which it has been subjected.
| The weather has been thick since we have
been in the harbor, but we have made out
| in the mountain ranges visible the cones of
| three so-called "eXtiuct volcanoes" One
of the difficulties with volcanoes is that they
| have habit after centuries OF quiet of break
! ing out, and no one would have occasion to
be surprised at any moment if the black
PEAKS that stand silentagainst the sky should
resume the activity of other ages, and add
10 lp N no
country and the interest Of this ancient
town.
The exterior Of many Of the houses is
very pleasant. The fronts are clean. There
are lace curtains and flowers at the windows,
and the display in the shops is remarkable
for variety and tasteful i'm arrangement.
Within, the evidences of comfort, intelli-
gence, aldlrefnement are still more decided.
We have found invariably shelves crowded
with books, walls neatly papered and hung
with engrayngs or photographs and family
portraits, while newspapers and maga-
zines abound. There are easy chairs and
sotss, writing tables, lamps of the most
modern style, tall stoves evidently an im-
portant article of furniture), and pervadlng
order and cleanliness. 1t is possible that our
experience may be exceptional, for 1t must
be admitted that We made our first calls upon
the Governor, sheriff, Chief:Justice, doctor,
German aud French consuls, and Others OF
the most prominent people of the town, to
whom we had been commended by letters OF
| introduction. Our first impressions of the
Icehndic capitol are extremely favorable,
aud an agreeable surprise.
The people seem to be full of intelligence,
and so far, do not seem to be conspicuously
| lacking in energy. All the world knows the
reputation of IcelanderS as an educated peo-
pie. but the impression abroad 10 that they
are wanting in vigor. and that would appear
| to be an injustice. Many of the men are of
good stature. and many of the women are
fair to look upon. The cheeks of the
girls are red as red apples, or the oak Leaf
when the frost has crimSoned it-tull OF
rich glow of health--whiie their forms
are good and their movements full Of grace.
Perhaps their cheeks are too red, and that
few of them are tall or slender, and that evil
dences of hardship and penury are not un-
frequent, but very often observed; yet
these are not the affect persons of whom
the books about Iceland are suggestive. Of
course, few days ashore may serve to cor
rect the impressions of first observations.
| The Icelandic dog seems to be reminis-
cence OF The wolf and fox. The curl OF his
tail and the prick of his ears-also his atti-
tude and commemorative smack OF saw
agery. l have not yet made the acquain-
lance Of the sheep of this island, and have
seen but few of the cattle, but have made
a note Of the ponies. One who travels in
Iceland must know the pony-WiSely, II
not too well-for he is the sole dependence
on the roads, which are mere pony-paths.
There was great lot of the little fellows
in town on yesterday. They 90 about IN
strings, stout cord or small rope fastening
| the lower jaw of one to the tail OF the other.
| Thus half dozen are attached in line; and
the farmer who has come to market trots
homeward on the foremost Of his string OF
ponies, and the rest, tied tail to jaw, with
pack saddles piled with Gods heads or
other merchandise, follow, and keep step
nicely. The prevailing color among the po-
MES is sorrel (they are of all the horse colors,
thoueb), and they are distinguished BY an
abundant growth of hair. 1t is not unusual
to see their tails clipped squarely to prevent
them dragging the ground. This abundance
of tail hair gives a good fastening for the
useful rope that regulates the next pony in
order. A question arose whether the little
rascals We're shod, and an examination of
| their feet answered it in the affirmative. /
speak Of the ponies as small rascals, but the
| term should be understood in this case as
one of endearnent. | think one might be
justified in petting neat and doclle, long
| tailed, sorrel Iceland pony; but perhaps l
can tell better after riding one to the geysers,
| seventy miles away.