, 1874-09-13
FASHION,. :
Black the Costume Of the
Day.
iIolc| Dresses fer |finter-Tteir Eat<rial,
and EeE They hro iIads.

and EieE They hr0 aade.
How Man Can Ascertain the Expense
Of H'omen's apparel.
Years ago, men usurped bright coIors aud
costly fabrics iu Dress aud went naoro Sayly clad
than the most prororce dams OF tho present
tino would Gare to do. Fancy anJ man OF tho
present day, hoEe1cr, rushing about Ill olue
velvet doublet, scarlet cloak, l5aee-hreeches,
silk hose, diamond buckles, etc. 4 few
no doubt, would ike to 10 so.-tl,at class
who now arc radiant in scarlet ncck-tles,
exaggerated sl;rt-froEts,. and diamond pms
radiant as that wondrous carbuIclo OF tho White
Hills Custom is against il. however, and We
rarcly ace cny very wide deviation from eober
black or gray il C mans apparel, unless
some uuack takes that way of ADVERTISING him
self. Even tho English innovation OF blue coat
and light tronsers for morning weddings Is
looked upon with distrus!, unless tho person ID
very sure of himself, and equally certain OF his
tailor, It would seem also that womcn's appar-
ell is rapidly approaching q similar standard OF
gravity II color, at least for st1eet-wear. Ever
since Eucepic. with hcr lore for her natlonel
costume introduced black into dress ns Suitable
for Ill sorts OF tollcttcs. and not simply as si-
n1ticant Of bereavement, it has grown into public
favor, until at last it 1nay te said to oe
TIE COSTUME OF THE DAT,
from Which anything approaching decided color
is merely . departure.
Even the tints that a1c offered in place OF
black all approach it very nearly or elso the
,,o,o,ona s{,,j1ea Tint are equally unmarked
.,..a,..,a a1o .,,,stitu.cf Grays ard
III 1uen'se1eo "Ao .-:. 49,.
ccrus pear tne 6Anio 1o'.e1 40 =: '. ss1s
black itself does, and, without it, arc scarcely
moro pronounced. For winter, however, black
=; o.. or,v ,vaar or if that Is going too far. it
=. s.;n -, 1,9;,;o,t,r nrofc,,cd 10 mako ANYTHING
- sN'4' 8u''e| FI:,
approaching color eSccp!sot:1
The range of materials to choose from is very
wiGe.-yclyct, silk Of various make and design,
.-.a,,a ,,;- !, ~, 1;ror;no o,al;tics Henrietta
ca3u7A u4'A 49, 49, .o.,:. Nv; 81, tha WOW
eioth' Alpaca nAona1' ro.' A.'e $3.50 ,
Cooos tnat coluo oce"ee14 N'ieoo' "AA'e' F.NAt''
supreme above nil. wo may mention cashmere.
Ts has hccono as much IN essential in laly's
,. - ,1a,,- s,1,, and Ia coua1lv sc fo tn
"1' =. :, ~ t,,,ao h,,cr drosse. and how
purchase. IL IL u '1eSo p'ash u'I'@e@' ".o ~"
to make them. that NO Intend to speak mora
euncc;,1ly this week,
NOBEL DRESSES FOR WINTER
aro noy bcipc uado with black velvet skirts and
cashmere over dresses, really very Ike Z locs
nnlo,,nise. Thcse oycr-drcsscs alo Of genuine
ini};a c,shmcre and are no! always Of black, but
frequently in psIc-roso, h1ne and gray shades.
Tney ara very long aud looEcd over the yclyes
ss,rt. These, we may remark en- PEASANT, a1e
intended for ho1se-tlrcsses, aud will not be par
ticularly common nor can We admit that cheap
imitation. in velyeteen and common cashmere,
would be Ut all deslrablo from an esthet!c point
of view. yelYet will be very much worn during
tho winter aud satin will put i'll E. claim to be
recornizcf as desirable fabric.
4 proper costume for reception will be T.
hack yciyot pctticoat, o7cr which will bo worn .
1cen poiutcd apron oyer-skirt, cla5oratcly en-
hToiiercti with lcss and blue steel. The sleeves
will be OF velvet md the cu!rasse will match the
oyor-skirt. Tho sapleut printer or proof-read:r
made us say, in q previous article. that these
,lresses would cost from $3.50 to IS. When he
cooa TO buy ono for his wife, we hope lie will DO
ohlo to ret it at that price; but we put tho de-
cjnal point after the last cipher when we wrote
ahnnt It. Next time he might add that 81 Chill
,1-a1, nv for than" by yay Of couniciiue the
"isn uhs,,-3;tv az ~ %''1''
For tiie espccial benefit Of the genus homo.
rhn nra 50 wildly at sea about..the e1peuse OF
won,r's apparel. nc would suggest that such
mnn orlcr himself
.DnEss s1:1T or VELVET AND Silk
ve1vet cost with silk vest and trowsers md
tb,t In aho} have these eiubora,cly embroidered
w,tb a,l1- and hIno steel with frilIs Of Chautllv
and Point d Alencon lace Then, when the tail
ar senfls in tho bill let him mutip1v it by ten {as
bia Wife. dress will ut least contain ten times
tl,e matarial and trimming that suit will contain)
and ho viii arrive at some definite idea Of whnt
Nv = won1,ns dress NAV DO estimated al whilo ho
,mnst aso remcnber that this garment il but ono
nn1a,,o n,anv' If he docsn want to wear tho
s1,f Ho catt hang It IN where he can look at it !;
md then. Wien lis wifc's bills como on instead
~ -,,,mh,inr. inst mu1tiDlv as before for ono
snit and thcn multiply again by any numbe1
fu, fran tv, nnwar1s for tho variety she will re-
| nn;ro to Ia decent. It may not mako him feel
| asp1y. but ho will have learned something.
A" XXI rn,r tn cct hack to our mut@ons Another
dresa hat, taGlicr Of silk in vertical puHs. very
U;Jn md eenarated by rolls of velvet. The rel
vet ~ skirt was mado quite plain, but trimmed
around Tho bottom with n garuiture of Chantlly,
r,.r;o arnT,ss]v for 4. TIip nassed IN the front
~ fi,a waist The curasse-yaist was very long
fttino thc Lips closely as armor, from which it
re.a ta naue. This was Of velvet, also trimmed
With Ice. while tie pulled sleeves OF silk wero
| aanarnted hy banda of velvet. aad tie neck and
wris.s were finished with point-laco f1ills. "A