The weekly clarion. [volume] (Jackson, Miss.) 1863-1882, 1874-05-14

From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harper's Bazaar.
Glossy black taffeta silks will be pre-
ferred for summer wear on account of
their greater ightness when compared
with gros grains. Some of the prettiest
that have already appeared upon the ave
nue. have basque and overskirt, and are
trimmed with the fine side plating called
knife-blade plaits. There are two founces
of these plaits on the lower skirt, each
about eight inches deep; these are sewed
fatty at the top, and again through the
middle, leaving the lower edge flowing
like ruffie The apron overskirt has
single plating three or four inches deep,
made of straight silk, and sewed but once
to the edge of the overskirt. The basque
is usually more piped on the edge; some
times thick substantial fringe trims the
basque and overskirt, but these shiny silks
look best when trimmed with themselves
Very good taffetas are bought for 81
yard, and excellent qualities cost 81 90
or 50. Among the late importations are
long basquines shaped like gentleman's
coat, with deep Louis Quinze vest, pock-
cts and ruff, and plain hanging back,
without any drapery. This is a cross
between the basque and polonaise, and as
it emanates from the best Partisan houses,
indicates marked change in costumes.
1t is made in rich black silk, and though
of simple design, is deliberately trimmed
with Jet, insertion and lace. The skirt
has four shirred pufs in front, with ruffles
around the bottom.
The most stylish hats for summer are
those with coronets widely turned up in
front, and a cluster of three soft stemless
roses, pale, pink, sulphur aud coral color,
placed directly above the forehead. Other
handsome hats fol tall stylish women are
in the new Directone shape, with the cor
onet cut open, pointed and tapping some
times IN front only, and sometimes on one
side also. This style is pretty in white
chip, with band of Jet around the crown,
and two demi-long black plumes stuck in
the front and dropping over the crown.
Pale roses in tri-color are grouped in the
split of the coronet, and also behind. The
coronet is faced with black, covered with
white lisse, and mounted on a black band
that sets closely to the head. For gay
young ladies is the Ninon de PEnclos
round hat, with the brim turned up high
on the left side, and again behind; the
front points downward, shading the fore
head slightly, but must not be worn too
far forward. A pretty model is of brown
chip, with brown velvet facing and folds, |
with pink roses clustered on the turned |
up side of the brim. The regular Corday |
hats have high Normandy crowns, with |
plated capes behind A simpler and |
generally popular bonnet is the dropping |
gypsy front of black or white chip, with a
silk Normandy crown without curtain, |
but compactly Ornamented with rose
cluster, daisy wreath, or perhaps only |
q slender wing of the golden pheasant. |
The lisse plating may be worn or omitted |
at pleasure. These gypsy bonnets should |
not come in contact with the face, but |
must be mounted instead ON a crown OF |
puffs or braids. A novelty is the reversi-
bic bonnet, which has high loops on one
end and roses on the other, with curved |
sides, and may be worn with either end |
in front, according to fancy. The truth |
is, bonnets are worn in most caprieious |
fashion this season. Last years Rabagas
have only to be put on with 'three-quar
ter 'front.'" turning the highest part of the |
coronet to the left, and trimming that
point with a still more pointed bow and a
cluster of roses on an aigrette, and a
stylish shape is arranged. The simplest
stylish trimming is a succession of folds |
of gros grain or China Grape around the |
blue-gray, rose, blue or /
ecru-with the back left plain, and a
bunch of loops and flowers just to the left |
of the front. Strings are entirely ban
ished. The only drapery is from the new
scarfs mentioned last week and the Char |
lotte Corday curtains.