, 1874-05-10
METROPOLITAN MODES.
Analysis Of a key Ralkiug-Dress - Tho
Glories Of a Bridal Tro1sseap.
Tho Abomination Of Jet Beads-.-Frerch
Catering for the American
Market.
Blue and Yellow the Fashionable Co}or.s
---The Favorite Hats Described,

There is consolation in beng ready for Il
season, 1t the season isn't ready fog you; 81
at least, thought the coatriver Of delicat
! GRAY BILE wALE1So-pREss,
when tho shook out the folds, the other day.
! is Quakerish in hue and r,ntcrial, only the uua]
ity is finer than those unworldlings are apt t
use. The sairt-of reasonable walking length
| just touched the ground behind. aud, BY an in
| genious uEo OF tapea, could be raised eve
higher 4 fifteen-!neh 1ounce, laid i
tno~inch box-plaits, with an equa
space between, followed tho bottor
Of the skirt. The lower edge Of the nounce was
finished by double soft piping Of silk, eeyera
shades darker; and the three~inch band which
headed the founce was similarly piped on botl
| edges. The front breadth, above the founce
WAS entirely OF duger-w,de ~putHngs, drawn o,
| cords, and rot very full. The lower edgo of thi
puned tahle1 was left loose, and cut in half
m1tred pointa, falling over tho 1ounoe. Ih|
oyersAirt consisted OF throo straight breadshs,
open in froat, with revets OF dark silk-the SAINT
width from top to bottom--abo1t fro inchet
vide. The rovers are supposed to be held dovr
BY simulated buttonholcs, and embroidered
buttons of the lighter shade whila the bottom
OF the oversliirt and the slash up the back a.e
finished By the soft double piping Of the dark.
Naturally, where tho shape Of the o7erekist is
80 perfectly simple, tue effect depends OH the
drapiug, which Is very graceful. drawing the
skirt away from the front, and lifted, on the
right sids, by the inevitib1e eumoniere. Tbs
walst is plain jocsey-basque, q sn,au square
postillion back. and tuo tabs in trcnt, borde1ed
by the two soft pipings. Tho fraise is box
plated, set down about three inches from the
back OF the mock, and in front reaches nearly to
}1,o hath *Fhn oil
the darker shade (thls is supposed to prove the
Jacket sleeYeless), with Gu fss, la Norauuetairc
Of the lighter shade. Plain this suit is, 1t u
very elegant, and has tie IL" " 80 often sought.
70 seldom found. It is economical, too; not re-
quir1ng, for woman Of average height, aore
than twenty yards, at the mo4t.
In that.
BRIDAL 1noussEAU,
mentioned last tmo is g black silk home-drcss,
10 simple and 40 pretty As to mako it extremely
taking. It is cut in the Princesa form, that we
used to know as the Gabrielle. In this special
instance. fow rariations render it apparently
new style. In the back, the braadtha arc cut or
at the waist,-te:natnatlng in q basouo,-and
they are then pu4.ed on to crinoline lining.
The puDing-this is roslly ony tho silk, laid il
piaits along the odges Of tue ining-appears
like full d,a3ery bcaind, and has no s:if, fiat
look Tne tao straight back breaatAs ase
arranged in this manner, and continua till thoy
reach the head Of q reiy deep Spanish aounce,
surrounding the bottom. The hounce is
bias, aud quite acsnt; but is headed By
q full shirred b,&ad six or seven
inches Wid:. Across the front Is caught, in n
peculiar way, a square Of silk,-tho substitute
for al apron. The right upper corner is fastened
OIL tho watst-lne, about three inches from wi1are
tho waiss closes. The lofs lower corner is then
secured III it's pror or picce on the opposite side
of tho skirt, JUG: above the 1ounce. 1hea tL9
left edge is fastened to the Rs1rt ouce mere
about sir inches aboyo ths corner; aad finally
the left upper corner is turned over on tho out
side, ehawEf2shion. Or course, tha fold Of tho
square Of silk is rhcn dagoualY across the front,
aud the shape Of tho apron almost triangular.
Tho edges Of this three-corncred orunnent
ITO bordered by. fringe. The upper corno1,
fastened on the right side, is secured therc BY |
% get in or out Of tho gown il this apron vera
mnosable. The Eleo7es Of shis dress arc coat /
hape, with side- -plaitsd frils. 50 set On as Just
0 fall o7er the bottom, and simulate semi
lowing sleeve. There Is no fratso; but pert
title, daring, standing collar tiuishos the neck.
aiuty
WHITE SILK GBEyADESE,
'hich promises to be oEs Of tae f.vorite mate
iaia for sumuer-eEo:lag drcsses. The skirt,
ABLY den,i-:rain, is . vesy, sonslo!e length fof
dancing hall. Tho trimming ia first. > knife
lada plated fud1e tsn iuchss w.ide. (Hore. lot
10 say for tho benefit Of the unknoxinz,
nat knifc- -blads plaits are simply very nar-
ow meeting sldo plai.s ths pl1its usually
eing folded moi 1sore than 3 quarter Of IN inch
landing rudlo, the pta1ts turning in the oppo-
to direction. Between the two p.aitinss is
cry full fEngca ruche OF white taRets SILK
reducing much the sa.ue effect IS feathe1-trin- |
ing, aud much moro euitahle to summer
resses. Then comes tweuty-inca tlounce.
mltariy finished at the top. This brings the
.rntture considerably above the Eneo, where, |
placa OF the expected oYcrs6lrt, is graceful
!sht which starts from under lc:ge spray OF
ood-dowers On the right side Zone cnI Of tho !
9 edge. and winds round tho skirt, till it is /
osely tied, low, on tho opposite aide. Tho /
aist is gimple round basque Of !
le-piaits and bordered b. narrou knile-blado
cut cut IN dosp v With @ kifsblads % % rae surnine uin
ch way, and ruching bet"ecn. THO sleeves, | c
at-shapo nearly to the wrist, hare deop knife- d
ado plated cuff, falling over tae hand, aud c
rmiug at once Blseya mora Convenient than, | n
d equally d1essy with, the favorito elbow siyla $
AN oRoASDY 1IusL1N Il
smother Of these white and bridal garments. u
% skirt (dancirg leag1h again, as if all the
rid wore perpetual festivaD, has deep c
snish douncc round the bottom, having a tno- o
b hem and q half-a-dozen quartor-i inch tucss d
rs are lined with ribbon q
brilliant rose~pink. The overakrt | =;
long and full, and apron-shaped IN front, fl
ed high, aud hoped, Gu tie right siGo. under h
coouettisb little au1oonero Of silk aud Ia
slin. So much for form. For material, tho d.
srs':irt is made Of alternate stripes Of biae e;
sin 1uckiug aud :ovB OF rcvering, such Is is tc
ID IN mourning collars. The rows Of tucking &c
about tHo-aud-a-haH inches vide, aud the
II Of the reverng two inches. Tie unpleasant n
ak whore the ecama Of The brcadths come ia i'll
ided by setting row of rovering between. 81
IS use Of the revering is entirely novel, r
sible, and pretty. In tho first place, it costs re
ut d third IS much Us muslin insertion and, | :"
ere dozens OF yards are employed, this is m IN
orsant item. Besides, having tribe more IA
fucas than its rival, the garment or
prevented from "vi1ting :" quito m
'oon. Again, where 1t is dosircd to wear it cl,
color, the color elbows much better than | II
insertion does. In this special iu- Ii
1co, rosa- pick ribbon il Eek under every row vi
which renders tho robe very bright pr
1oweriikc. The waist OF this is made as a DC
rt, sla4het, a!most-tltting sacque, Of altor- at
rows OF bias tuckln5 and insertion, and | nc
n over low underwaiss Of fine tucked cam tn
, low in tho neck Sleeves coat shape, and S,
the body.
TIE nLE1usH N TUE WARDROBE tn
polonaiss OF black Spanish lace, each leaf pe
flower Of the pattern being outlined with j eu
jet beads. Stirling, and extremely fashion, ..1
and very costly into tho bargain, it has to a
injured. It Is to be worn, not only over luz