The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1874-03-22
SPRING FASHIONS.
CIimpses Into the Realms OF
the ModiSte.
Opening Day and It's Museum of
Wonders.
Bonpets and Dress MaterialS---The Latest
styles Critically Considered.

Although some fashionable establishments have
already celebrated the advent OF the chameleon
deity VINO presdes over the mysteries OF the femi-
nine toilet and have given opening" receptions
IN her honor, yet the queer pranks played by the
rlerk of the weather this month, in which he has
shown himself more maynard and erratic than
Dame Fashion herself, have had the general effect
Of delaying the spring exhibitions OF the modistes
Opening day is always vague term and might be
applied to March or April with equal correct
ness. This week, however. has been selected BY a
very large number OF establishments as the most
acceptable time in which the importan question
OF "what to wear and how TO wear it" during
This year OF grace 1874 is to be solved. The spring
fashions are the most important lady's mind,
ns generally the tall styles are but notifications OF
their vernal predecessors. There is little at pres
ent to indicate revolution IN Styles save 10 con-
frast the dresses OF the present day Win the
balloon shaped and crinoined structures OF lew
years ago. An eminent authority on this subject
says
The present fashions. If not invented for short
women certainly lavor them IN remarkable de-
gree. Every style and design that can add TO the
length seems To have been adopted. so that tall
women nave only the refuge OF sel-coloteu mate
rial ana such arrangement as VIII ignore, II not
uefy. the extreme OF fashion. Long, close, scant
drapery long sasnes, lengtnwise' puts, perpen-
dcular stripes. side paits are the rage, and, upon
a tan. min person require to be arranged most
budlcIousy with broken lines and many another
Irlck OF art, In order 10 the too obvious sug
4eston OF heightened sweetness" DC.
Certainly the present style OF dress Is not calcu
lated to encourage Professionalism, as ladies must
ind 1t difficult to move around in such close fitting
drapery. That 1t is becoming few Will be inclined
10 doubt The street costume to be used strictly
as such, has long since become an established in
lstltutlon. and from present indications IT would
Sc that the general design OF 1t were to be
plcity and unobtruslve style that characterized
at last season are still III favor; but Fashion
lterial trimming or design, provided only
that plain effect in front and at the sides is
preserved and only modestly bou1ant drapery
tat the back Is INDUCED in (; consequently with
lair modicum OF taste and Judgment II is quite
possible Tor every style OF figure to be becomingy
and at the same time iashionably attlred. Nothing
has as yet been devised 10 replace the convenient
economical and becoming redingote5 and polo
masses for the purpose, and they still reign pre-
eminent. Redingotes proper are entirely loose,
or at any rate not tight firing and are most suit
ably used for 'egltgee or semdress; but the name,
by general usage Is now applied TO any polonalse
that is very long and particularly plain In effect.
There is nothing absolutely new to be discovered
An dress materials, except IN the coors. Quaker
grays and browns are the fashionable shades for
spring wear, commencing at silver-gray, straight
through TO Diue-gray, Ton.gray ana oronnze-gray,
ladies must not conlound gray with lavender, as
SO many persons do, or dra6 with fawn. When
they get pure shade they should keep 1t and COM
pare 1t with Others, and IN this way educate their
eyes to tlnts shades AMI coors. Next to the grays
the wood and the nut-browns will be fashlonably
worn. Two or three shades OF the same color put
together, or a clear costume OF say nut-brown
with handkerchief or necktie and feather tip or
white, pink, blue or another shade Of brown. Tan
browns are to be avo ded.
A leading modiste says:-''Of all the accessories
OF ladys toilet the bonnet has certainly been the
most subject to caprice. An exhibition Of the
various styles OF head gear that have been in
vogue during the recollection OF even the present
generation would certainly be amusing but
probably, not very 1attering nor creditabe to the
pretexr of chapeaux, objects the most ridiculous
and designs the most audacious have at various
times been worn on the feminine Uranium. Proteus-
Ike the bonnet has assumed thousand forms;
but the point OF departure has always been the
same-the simple hat, with crown fitting
the head and q brIm the same width all
around. From this simple shape have orgi-
mated varied ana marvellous Transformations
aud notifications, at the bidding OF fashion or
caprice Al one time we have the crown raised In
the air like monument; again II is as nat as a
saucer; varying IN snape-cylindrical, conical,
resembling huge stoveplpe, magnlfed candle
extlngusher. mushroom or soup tureen turned
upside down. and attached TO the br1n at different
hngies-rght obtuse and acute-or in parallel
line. To changes still more erratic and
strange has the orlm been subjected. The
happy thought OF combining with 1t a curt ain
gave us the bonnet-the modest cottage and the
DARING coal scuttle, with all Its hideous modifca-
tons that gradually merged into the coquettish
gypsy, with which We baoe farewell TO the bonnet
proper, threw away the curtain altogether, re-
turned in one sense to first principles, and since
then such qups and pranks as have been played
with the brtm-cutting 1t here and slashing it
there, turning 1t up ana pinning 1t down, pointing
II In one place and curvIng 1t IN another, making
it round, oblong and literally into a cooked
haiti would be impossb BILE to describe. Yet
the shapes have been no more curious
than the ornaments Earth, air and water the
animal, vegetable and mineral Kingdoms have all
been represented. Plumes, heads and whole
bodies oil brds-lt Is even less than ten years since
huge gray or white bird, perched upon and COW
.ring the crown, with outspread wings, the head
extending In front and the tail In the back,
considered la mode; beetles and bugs OF various
kinds; different Iruits-cherres piums, currants,
miniature apples and pears, and even some or the
smaller vegetables; ponderous and osten-
tatous ornaments OF gilt, steel, let oXy-
died iron and silver; all these have been
worn within easy remembrance, IN addition to
what may be termed the legitimate materials
riDoons, silks, laces, velvets, straNs ana flowers
among which might be classed piumes and metal
lie ana Jet ornaments If used IN moderation. Worn
AZ various times tilted on the nose or resting
percbed on the summit OF edlfce OF false hair
or placed almost perpendculary the front of
an immense chgnon, what wonder that the
ehapeau has always been considered legitimate
object OF rdculeD
The variety OF shapes for the present season
should satisfy the most exacting female mind.
Notifications OF the old gypsy cottage bonnet
seem to be IN general lavor. The wells Just
received Tor spring and summer wear are OF dotted
lace, placS, white and gray embroidered with silk
Or nne Jet, and finished WITH light silk or bead
fringe. They are small and round, exactly the
"mask' wells worn couple of years ago, but less
becoming to the lace than the point ted wells worn
recently.