New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-09-26
THE FASHIONS.
NOTES ON NEW STYLES.

NOTES ON NEW STYLES.
poNNErs BIRDS, FELT HATS. PLUMEs-PARislAN
MODELS ACKNOWLEDGMENT TOILET
-DREssEs-CosTUMEs FOR ALL occAsIoNs-fAb-
RIGS NEW AND oLD-CoMBINAToN sulIs-fOh
TRIMAIINGs-FANs AND NEcNErs OF NhLNhi
AND JET-NEw BRoNZES. MARBLES, AND PUNE
LAIN.
Though Paris lacks court Imperial vi
royal, she remains empress OF fashlOn' hel 'ao' "u
skill dictate what the world snail wear anu "na e"'
not only SEEM but be beautiful So many ana strKihg
ar Inc oooontr,ces of fashion, that TO quote from
foreign Journal cit is impossible TO describe crosses
without aid Of color 20 bring them before
the eve the contrasts used are so strange yet so ctur
ssauep The charm Of Autumn opening days consists
mostly in the bonnes, and their variety Is nnnlte
spdtheir name legion We turn back to the portraits
Of our great-graudmothers, or TO their fashion
books, and find that "coalscuttle was the rage.
Some years ago Mr. Upper warned OF robin famine
In consequence of the redbreas being sacrificed at the
shrine OF fashion Another year and sea-gus were III
danger determination. TO judge by the run upon
their wings No adys hat perfect without It's wing
nor it to-day without its sharp saucy wng plume
or feather tip The destruction Of all small birds enor
nous Oh both conupents. The demand Tor them "hen
their hue has been changed TO scarlet by the
Overs aid can scarcely be supplied. 80 with uny
hummng-brds, with glancing heads Ike nothing 80
much as scrap Of flaming foil set by eweler beneath
OF red cut glass and with breasts OF chry soprase
and wings Of sardonyx rosy brown and there are oher
birds OF the buegray OF onyx with delicate tlnges Oh
white and birds OF tawny brown with dash OF scarlet
They perch saucily on hats with outspread wings OF
Aame-eolor or black with opal tints. as plump anu
tempting epicurean palate as any ever ser'eu tup
broled on toast. Can 1t be that this increasing
demand for bird and wing and tail OF BIRD Is just
relic OF the savage state and owes its origin 70 al IDEA
connected with that which induces the dandies OF the
r. ia IN o
while the bellies cover their heads with feathers stepped
In greasei At present the bonnet Is not bonnet ana
with the disappearance Of the bonnet proper so unVer
sally do we meet the exigencies of custom which
would appear be dependent upon natural advantages
that we are never of hair One can even have 1t
what color wishes, and Mr. Tuppers robins were I'M
fortunate possessing vests which matched the pre-
valing hue.
The hats Of the present period are TO the bonnets as
crocodile to an alligator, the proyerbial negro
named after the Roman emperor TO the other negro;
but for both hats and bonnets fashion initiates Heogs
baus, and requires paacocks, redbreasts, and KING
fishers to grace her dainty dishes We are quite as
particular in details OF trimming as the German
aramatist who noted in his play, Here is to be
heard the sound OF red coat brushlng; ior
Partisan modises such as Vrot Graux, L9te, or Mag
nier-whose magic names stamped within the crown ado
so much inehabe satisfaction to the fair wearer-are
particularly cautious in the of arranging the slight
est ornament The simplest hat in fact is the result
perhaps OF week OF careful study 1t is only the shad
ings and etchings shades OF color in green or it
may in that purple light that CLEANS duskiy from
the yOes bed but there poetry IN the curve or the
dropping ostrich plume and artistic grace IN the placing
of the roses Both flowers and feathers are used to-
geher and also that fantastic of Inventions the
fibrous sensitive feather trimming The fashionable
shades are great deal decided in color both in
bonnet silks ribbons aud velvet and in flowers and the
long graceful ostrich plume is dyed In the shades 10
match. The shapes different enough TO suit the
most fastidious. There haring scoop fronts and
fronts turned up without grace high above the brow,
with sharp slope back OF the ears and then there are
soft crowns and sometimes these stray into sembance
of cape behind but there stray odds and ends
Of ribbon and dangling bits OF ornament. The bonnet
frame is covered with simplicity, sans shirrng
or pung or folds and the darker of the velvet shade is
pped with velvet or satin OF the lighter shade.
There established rule in regard to the styles for
other fashionable bonnets are trimmed or united 20
another color seal-skin brown of reddish hue has
lovely ereamoOr faengs and the roses Of the warnest
crimson. Another bonnet of the new shade in greena
charming tinted Of yellow cast-has feathers and
acngs OF the color shaded softly OF into the new
tint flowers Of sulphur" "a pale, opaescent, creamy
greenland silky, dropping roses of shaded carmine
Gray velvet has roses dark deep red but bonnets OF
all Of the new bright tnts-such claret and other
wine colors, Cardinal" another new color of bright
rich red Of neither scarlet nor crimson shadngs, ana
volcano" new flame cOlor-are trimmed WIN roses
and ostrich tips Of the hue in several shades
very elegant bonnet of cardinal OoOrs combined velvet
Of the darkest shade and long loops lined with lighter
shade of silk; this was trimmed with half dozen
shaded ostrich tips, peeping over the upturned brm,
and across front half garland OF lovely roses
OF the same hues. Black velvet Don'
nets are massed with jets and beaded lace
and black Mercutio plumes Here and there are some
black bonnets frightened by gorgeous tropical Bird
a startling, few feathers OF rocks and crows, the
brilliant East India corou corou the Chinese kngsheT
cocks feathers with CLINT Of blue and sprinKled with
let the purpered anager the ophophore or wreaths
OF peacocks' dazzling eyes, and there agretes and
coronets and assels Of gtterng jet beside tea rose
hafhdden in chaplet Of silvery dying leaves lies low
al the side Just above the ear really regal beauty
Of soft CarmeHte velvet had rose-pink shadings OF
aigretes feathers, and lace another with soft crown
and high raised front embodied greengra misty vel
vet with pink facings and the long Mercutio plume
dropping over back contained the same shades Felt
hats imported in larger quantities or inner
quality and shapes generally larger and exceed
iney comfortable in STYLES of every description. From
high TO low crown severely brgandsh and Rembrandt
ish TO quantity Quakersh and charmingy coquettsh;
either style is becoming as BIZARRE. The edges are
neither wired bound and the colors match all the
pretty costumes green and' drab and the family OF
grays and browns and blues besides no end OF black,
and the very fashionable blackblue. There is for the
latest novelty the Mercutio shape; the froat flares
ND toward the crown, and is fastened by superb
citterpe Jet ornament which holds the long sweeping
Mercutio plume left to float back over the crown
Some hats have these plumes in the natural gray.
moro becoming and picturesque hat cannot be imagined
The trimming is mostly confined TO an ineh-wlde bias
band OF velvet and where the 0rm may be held back
high against is massed cluster OF roses OF
different shades On the colored fes are velvet bands