New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-04-20

where, however. the amount of business is not
always an evidence of the basis upon which 1t Is
carried on. Where everybody rode on donkeys, in
1852 there now superb equipages. and the rich
merchants are building up suburb of sumptuous
villas and gardens at Rameh, four or five miles to
the eastward of the city.
We drove to the Pasha's garden under fair sun
shine, through mild and yet bracing airs; but the
signs of severe Winter visible in the nipped
and diapidated banana trees, the dull hues of tho
palms. and the absence of any but the very first in
dicatons of Spring. The sycamore, fig and mulberry
trees are still asna<ed and gray in Northern Italy;
only the almond and apricot are IN blossom. The
garden seemed to be under mysterious ban; Sum-
mer, Spring and Winter were mixed in the trees and
plants, as if Nature had lost her calendar and
feebly endeavoring to find out the season. large
military band, in scarlet uniform, played various
clashing and jlngng pieces to about hundred
auditors and half dozen gardeners, in blue cotton
caftans, lounged about to that the few gerani-
ums, roses, and gilhfowers were not plucked
The return along the bank of the Mahmoudsh
Canal was altogether more satisfactory. The wind
ing water has all the character of natural
river; native villages have sprung up the further
bank; native craft, towed by men, move slowly
back and forth: cames and dOnkeys bring loads of
lush green grass from the fields beyOnd crowds of
women wash clothes or vegetables in the water, and
now and then you see devout Moslem, turned to-
ward Mecca, saying his afternoon prayer. remem-
bered an Egyptian colfee-house, shaded with palms,
but could not find It, In it's place there a small
Greek establishment, where an inferior Mocha was
brought to in Frank cups, and the narghileh
had lost its former fashion. Indeed, our going to
such a place at all seemed to surprise the Arab
coachman and to be hardly welcome to the keeper of
tho caf6 Uh IN bepOmp of the Orient If its
characteristic features thus disappearf With the
cafe the teller will GO next the pipe and the
little cup of frothy, aromatic coffee and finally, the
Egyptian will sit indoors, at a marble table, with "a
cigar in his mouth and bottle of saltwater ~ be-
fore him.
Moslem and Frank seem to live very harIhoniously
here side by side. The former have either con-
quered their religious preudices learned to sup
press the evidence of them Even in passing through
the bazar of the Tunsians, who have always been
narrowly fanatical in this respect few words in
| their language brought courteous and friendly
answers. Whatever Frank habits the people may
have adopted, they still keep their and cheer
funess their clamor for much and their satisfaction
with little am inclined to think that change of
costume (which means far more here than in most
other countries must pTecede-or at least be the
sign of-any important change In their ideas.
| If the Suez Canal has injured the commerce Of
Alexandria as was predicted the loss has certainly
been made up in other ways, for few cities of its size
show greater evidence of present growth and pros
perity. Mr.. Babbitt, the American Vice Consul
General, informs me that the trade with the United
States has greatly increased within the past year.
1t is not place where the tourist tarres long-for
the column which the Arab cOachmen call Bonn
beys Bllar" may be seen in an hourbut it is really
an interesting frOntspiece to the new civilization
of Egypt. The hotels have all the European COM
forts except that of bells, but if H. r. H. was willing
| to stand at his chamber door and clap his hands
three times for a waiter to come why should OBJ
! ject Z? Besides you may remember that they did
| just so in the Arabian Nights.
| So many American travellers imagineMarch to be
too late month for Egypt, that must inform them
we are inst comfortable-and more-without
fires. The temperature is that of a day in early
June, say 70o in the shade. BIT.