, 1874-10-18
an Increased Fullntss Of Skirt, and Its
Attendant Train Of Evils.
Variations in Aprons---Their Host
Formidable Rivals.
HEAVY Silk Guipure the Fashionable
Black Lace-.-1lalines Restored
to Favor.

| hats more uuhecomug and ungRin1y than eve
before. But. hitherto, we have misused GU,
mother-toDgue. Though We knew it not, su
perlatiyes, ere this, have been wretched1y cut o
place. Privately, am inclined to think tha
some OF the masculine hat-houses, having hal
large stocks OF fets left over for season o.
two past, must have disposed Of them cheaply te
| niiliuera who agreed to bring them out rs some-
! thing novel for women.
| AUTUMN HATE.
| Certain it is, that no shadow Of difference car
be detected betneen majority Of the new femi.
| nine head-coseriugs and the soft summer felts
| worn BY men. They are identical even to the
natrow repped ribbon binding, and the band
| around the crown. There are. OF course, va1iar
| tons Of the htgh-crowned, mannsh style; but
| that prevails, aud may we'll be considered the
| style Of the season. Indeed, certain economi.
cal persons ale trimming and freshening theis
husbands last summers hats, thereby rendering
| themselves nod.sh and thriftfu1 at the sa1ne
! time. The brinnB OF tha hats are un wired and
therefore offer an irresistible opportunity for
| iaunt aud pokes, and dents, which is eagerly
! embraced by the trimmers. They are turned
| up on the sides, before, behind, at the
corners, wherever, in short, it pleases the fancy
Of the Wearer. The effects produced are extraor-
dlnary. Now, you will meet a pretty, young
girl whose hat gives her tho appearance OF hay-
ing fallen and hattened her face and hat to-
gether. The next one looks as il she had turned
down the brim to shed the rain, but had neg
Iected to bend tho left side. Number three
comes along with her hat perched back at the
game angle Wo we're Taught to hold our pens
when We were patiently Tor otherwise) trans
scrlbing the moral precerts Of our copy-books.
Tho wunder is, how hat can be made to stay on
at such an elevation. without Visible means OF
support. The elastic which once secured it is
no longer vieible, and awful suggestions of
glue, gum, aud hn-tacks, present themselves.
The wire ones Say, however, that the secret con-
ssta in q wonderful skill IL preserving the
centro Of gravity. and-an unlimited use Of long
hair-pins stuck straight through the lels into
had almost said the heAd-bnt, on reflection I
do not believe the heads are all soft enough to
admit OF this. I speak Of felts alone, because,
Gray ls the fashionable color, aud the tall,
brigand hat-without the dent III the crown-the
favodte shape; though other colo1s and other
shapes are not uncommon. The trimming is
comparatively plain plain velvet b1ndng, or
no binding at all, on the edge and a plain
velvet or velvet and silk, band around thectown
Tho bows aud loops, which are not nany ara
placed wherever the bri1u il upturned against
the crown. a1id are supposed to hold it in posi-
ton. Among the bows are stuck tho feathers
ostrlca-pauMe5I Saue-"aues, oF foDne ufeastB-
# flowers OF leaves are desired, they too are
added to the general mass-- Jet and blue steel,
in the shape Of sprays frlnges, and single orna-
ments are interpreted wherever they can be,
and tnat is almost all over the whole
THE LATEST CHANGE
in gowns ia an increased fulluess, alas! For
year OF two now, We have had them very sensi-
bic, convenient. and comfortable wit!th.-a
width that Was perfectly manageable both in
and out doors. And, though We arc ocontent with
them exactly as .hey are. having long ceased to
erumblo at their too great expanee or too narrow
curtai!mcnt, ne must be hailed out OF them, and
into something We detest, because. pclforce, it
is novelty. OF all years, thus ID the last that
should be chosen for increasing the expense of
dressing, which the stretching OF skirts ia
equivalent to. The greater the width, the moro
material required to mako them, aud the more
trimming to cover theH,-to say nothing OF
more strength to carry, and more Skill to mau-
age them. SO long the fu1lness is laid in the
broad double box-plaits behind Il mentioned
them last tlme). which are secured to within a
= few inches OF the hem. the extra brsadths will !
not much matter for thoy will not increase the
apparent circumference Of the skirt. But, when I
the fancy tor these pla1ts passes, what is to be-
como of uB, and our superhuouBly- -voluminous !
One Of the most serious results of |
the amplifcatiou OF dresses ia the necessity OF
bringing back I
BUsrLFs AND HooPED-sK1Rrs
from which VIC have had most welcome sur
cease. !
beg11n to make themselves manifest. The frat
named article, always q leading-up-to or tonipg-
do1p-from the last. never exists in lts most pro-
nouuced form when its rival is in ita prime. It |
must be allowed, that for winter-promcnading,
sud with heavy, c}iogiug, wooleu d1esees. some |
t IL tn come back anyhow, perhaps this season
rs good as any for, ITS return. The hustle, as
It present, 10 but slender reproduction of ita
discarded precu1 sor it L. in fact, as little OBJ
ectionablo in size as is its nature to be. But,
II necessity, it will increase on regular grada-
ions, till it becomes the hooped-sklrt proper.
APRONS
re tue main thing left us intact. To be sure,
here are variations even in these as. for ex-
unp1e. tho TRIPLE apron. which ie really rery |
Elective. OF the three, the lowest one reaches
lnost to the toe Of tue boot; the second falls
bout to the knee, and the short upper one
ONES about halfway between that and the
7aist. In soft silKs and woolen materials. the
dses are trimmed with folds and fringe or lace.
.ut, when this design is chosen for thick groa- |
rain the two upper aprons have to be simulated |
n the under Que. After this, the long, pointed |
prom, iooped hack over the tournne, is the
avo1ite This is like the long round apron in
verifying except being cut to rather sharp |
ONT in front, and IN frequently being orna-
rented. Primarily, the most elegant aprons are
t silk, superbly embroidered, ,-sometimeb in
10 open English work, that allows the under
( bands of silk, or velvet, or gauze, or mn7lin,
ith rowe Of 1ace insertion between. Sets OF 1
1ch aprons, with sleeveless jackets to match, are
'ade OF light shades Of crepe de Chine, or
siucd silk and Talenclennes OF guip,lre inser- !
on; and these sets are worn over black aud {
srr dark s1lks for dinner-dressen. They ARE {
Zquis1te, and remarkably convenient to ,
ave in 4 wardrobe, for they come in {
ay when everything else eeems to glro ]
It, Generally, the silk anu crepe =
ripes are shout 8 finger vide at the bottom, c
oping to an inch and i,a1f at the belt, the IN
rtion being ss vide as-well, AZ wide as can ! j
be afforded. p
For palmer gowns with aprons like the mate
II, the aprons are trimmed with perpendicular !
horizontal bands OF silk or velvet turning b
Earp point in the middle Of the fropt), either b
the same shade or Of contrasting color. c
1t, in adopting this style one has to coneider il
es height and figure. 4 tall, slender woman a
absolutely grotesluc in IN apron with perpen- e
cuIar bancs while a short, stout wonlan is b
nilarly affected By An apron trimmed in the K
ntrary manner. Changed about, however, il
ch 1ooks well, because her peculia1ites are Il
ned down, aud In measure concealed. II
ri spzsns, Quits ~ m7nJ-naJ, Rors-evsn~ ]