Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1874-11-04
Dresses, Wraps and C0iflmres.
WINTER WRAPS,


wraps, not only in shapes of jackets
and mantles, but in the materials,
which range from the new matelasse
silk 10 plain serge cloths. Among jack
cts the French sacque is the popular
garment of the season, because of it's
long shapely style and it's adaptibility
for plain garments and rich ones alike.
There are, however, many stylish Henry
fTrois and Medicis sacques, with long
fronts and short backs, and many of the
useful English jackets appear again for
general wear. Black wraps are almost
universally worn, as they suit with all
dresses; the only colored wraps seen
are designed for special costumes.
Matelasse silk resembling wadded
brocade is the accepted novelty for
handsome sacques. In purchasing this
material it is economy to buy the best
quality, as the embossed figures are apt
to fray in lower-priced goods. Ara
besque and foriated designs are more
admired than the small matelasse pat
terms, that look like quilted diamonds
and shells. The French sacque is the
simple and stylish shape for this stately
material. Velvet is usually associated
with it in the way of borders, cuffs, a
standing collar, and also a sloped piece
down the middle of the back and front.
A ruche of rocks feathers and hand
some Jet fringe trim the most dressy
matelasse sacques; others have side
plating of gros grain, Oh which Jet pas
sementerie in leaf pattern islaid. Braid
ing and embroidery would be super
fiuous on it's richly figured surface, and
lace is too light for it.
Most comfortable of all are the cloth
jackets, provided soft, thick, warm
cloth is selected These are smooth
faced beaver cloths, with tufted nap on
the wrong side, that are as yielding and
flexible as cashmere. These make serv-
icable garments, and should be plainly
trimmed with Titan braid or else with
substantial gros grain. The repped tur-
uuoise silk used last winter trays, and
is not worth the trouble of sewing on;
Jet trimmings are too dressy for these
plain cloth garments. It is best to have
these cloth jackets buttoned up closely
in front and high in the throat, yet
the English jackets. with their wide
revers collars, are stillpopular, and are
sold in large quantities. Twenty dol
lars buys a we'll made sacque Of good
beaver cloth. More dressy cloth
sacques are woven in matelasse pat
terms.
New water proof cloaks are of lighter
blue English cloth, dark plUm-color,
navy blue, and black They retain the
pattern, and have long cords and tassels
on the hoods A novelty this season is
long circular of checked black and
white silk, lined throughout with very
thin glazed India rubber to make it wa
ter-proof. The silk is not injured by
water, and the whole garment is very
light, and almost mOdorous.
FURTHER HINTS ABOUT DRESSES.
At the late openings more designs for
trimming dresses were gathered. A
good model for trimming handsome
black silk skirts is to have two bias vel
vet hounces, each over an eighth of a
yard deep, and head each by a wider
silk founce that falls over the velvet
rutf1e, and is also shirred to form a
dropping puff and standing ruffie. To
complete such costumes is polonaise
with matelasse front, velvet sleeves,
velvet basque back, and sashes trimmed
with let fringe. Another French de-
sign for black silks is that of having
five rows of jet galloon extending down
foot two wide plaits, on which bows
are set, trim the sides to the very edge;
the back breadths are pulled above, and
held in place by a sash the founce
has a piped hem below, two shirred
puffs above, and gets much wider be-
hind. The erect ruff1e at the top Of
founces is now doubled, or rather It's
edge is sewed in with the shirring, and
thus puff is formed. Black silk dress
es with Yhe box-plaited back breadths,
have on the front breadths a single deep
founce Of the smallest knife plating,
headed by wide bias band of velvet.
Worth's dresses are full of sugges-
tons to experienced eyes. For instance,
on a handsome costume of black silk he
has put an over-skirt with deep apron
front, forming sashes behind by folding
! double each of the back breadths Of
silk, tying them in pulled knot high
on the tournure, and trimming their
and series of his favorite loops. The
front of the apron has a wide velvet
border, and the original trimming down
the middle is triple box-plait. very
wide, held down by four cross bands OF
velvet, and also finished below with loops
Trimmings of knife plaitings, shirred
founces, puffs and bias bands are seen
in abundance on dressy black silks, yet
there are also house dresses of black
silk made in the simplest manner, with
scarcely any ornament. For instance,
there are basque and single skirts of the
| heaviest black silk trimmed with a
single bias band of velvet three or four
inches wide placed straight around the
skirt three inches above its edge; peck
cts Of velvet are set on the side cores, a
velvet Medicis collar trims the neck,
velvet piping edges the basque, and the
sleeves have two narrow plated frills
falling toward the hand, with small
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