, 1874-11-01
, rs,rt to Reintrodnce Eelretcen Skirts
u 'u i Leaning to Noolen Skirts
=. for Nid-NiDter.
1,;o Sleeves for Dinner ard Party
'''' eobcs---Low Pcm'adours and
PuHed Chcmlsettes.
.,rtr Dresses Laced pehind---An
f4''' elegant Dinncr-Gown'
=. =, MINGLED with Eyerything--~Nate'
ae' ' 1ssse to superscde Velvet

NEW YORK, Oct. %, 1874.
.;.;,.,v heathenieh to be thinking of
lie poo csrc.vs in this autumn-snneh'ne'
gowns an1 80 o. arst out of doors is happiness
when s'n'pI! !. taxing c1edullty too much to
enough " hee,s that it is only month
nsk ons s:~;rr ~ .ad not quite two to Christ
TO 1hsnA.s y. ,hout the changeableness OF
e. ,tn,tel Tho TIetchea oe'oe oesel'es
cur O. e. -. . model Republican who could
n0I "d ~ 1,cre Of weather than the perfect
oein-u .";. rho1e bright month OF October has
CAV. In truth, ever since last New Years,
GHep H9 ,.d 1,ttlo to complain OHIO excessive
r;nter-no suicide-inspirlng heat IN
CO" -. end unless the last two Of tho twelve
suul. a;,s reiu to their stormy tempers, 1874,
n' ~. locality. will stand out as year of years
- ,r-1- f,shionsble NeW-forkers do not adopt
,,rrenc,, custom Of staying in the country till
We s..i n.rt Of December. 1t is difficult to dl-
It would give them chance to enjoy
W., w.. IN IN aspect they are totally unfamiliar
..;,h moro than that, it would o1er them an
..,oyrnity to wear / certain class OF costumes
.h;.h their early return to town forbsds. The
,a--,,, reason, to bs sure, is not OF much con
l'.. ..snca hut tbs latter Ito many Of them) Is
'a =, i, 1ichtlv ignored. all the French bul1e-
~. ~. ted with descriptions OF chateau1
Sr.,<es-to be worn between the beginning OF
o,toh.r and December,-a CLASS for WHICH "e
~. M parallel Instead Of enjoying these
t.,.1v betgeen-costumes, ne begin to plan
-;.,a,-g,rmeuts ere re have laid aside summer
,,,nninrs-tbus dividing cur year into but two
s.,.oD.. Well ptthaps we gain IN one way
TInrA 1l3trAE-
linn shan once ne centre our tnoosnts On
WINTER SUITS
..... ., .ffurt viii be made to reln.roduce
x.ve.ten ek,rta Which, though extremely Popa-
1,r in tans have never been SO hers. oul uo.
inns Al too e1srayag ant to permit Us the use q
N imitatiou where the genuine Is TO oe nao
md thus nc have cut ourselves on from several
o3celieut materials. FelFet Is not very se1s'ce[
hls Tor the petlcoats Of SHORTCOMINGS, since
5.mn AID mud and e!uEh, defaco It At once, but
snlra;een fnov made almost as handsome as
relyetl 4, really du1able, aud does not suffer se-
rnrs1r frono ths weather. Tho French wear It
in n,ain. short (escaplng the ground by an lnch),
unt5lm1ned ski1ts, matching ID coaoI, no1 ~
shade. tie polooalss or oyerdless. Ihe hereto
iore-lndispenssble black Skirt worn with every
v.rIc1r of uppcr garment is less indispensable
tins season tnan tor Ioug time before. In TACT.
the reference in all coetunes is to bare pettcoats
matching the hue Of the rest OF the sut. dence.
the pretty velreteeus come in Ill the shades OF
eloth aud camel's hair.
There il, too. wholesome leanluS toward the
making OF woolen skirts of the taMe stuff as the
upper garment, for suits designed for mid-Nin-
ttr. So thoroughly hare silk skirts taken the
nl,ce O; these, during the past year. that an
entire Npolen euit appears rather In the Eulsc OF
rorelty Where SO heavy stutfs Is camel's hair,
drap dete, diagousls, etc.. are employed, the
tcanhess aud fatiest trimmings posslble are
choreo. A good dea' Of ~o1sted embroidery,
End rows of titan and other braida. together
With xo,sted !ringes, End fur and feather bands,
sppear in tbesa sensible and comfortable suits
iDd 1t Ia noticeable in ali styles Of dress how
much more manufactured trimmings ere used
than they have been; and. OF course. there is
kco1rese eondirg decrease Of garnaturs made Of
tha m.tellL
sse The lstess freak for dinner aud party robes.
yesy pretty they are, wi.hal, II tba arm beneath
b. 1t III round No matter what the materials
Of tlt sown be, the sleeves must be transparent.
CT pe..ly 70. For instance, in velvet ara set
slseEes Of Chambery gauze, tissue, aud silk
srenadine; While, IN silk and satin, You see all
these, II addition to lace, tarleton, and English
Grape. Sometimes, tae sleeves are puffed. either
yerucalIy OF horizontally, from shoulder to
vr1s.; sometimes, they are pu1ad to tue elbows,
having deep frills below; sometimes, they ere
rlain. and c:inging to the arm halfway down,
with deep rntes to finish them. The effect Of
these sleeves is trlde peculiar ut firEt; but Que
eoon grows to like them. for they are frequently
made to g1ve IN airy and coquett1sh api earance
to IN otherwise sombre, or, at least. plain gown.
Where any thin s1u1-notaply silk gauze and
CAPE lisEe-is csed II part Of the trimming Of
an eTeninB-dless, tbs sleeves, OF course, Are OF
the samc; but. where the sleeves are the only
eossames portion Of the toilette, they may be Of
any fabric liked.
oi mlnsEns thick aud thin, is the cutting Of silE
waists into low pompadours, and filing the
recs with pulled chemlsettes Of any transraien
goods. Naturally, with such uecks thin sleeves
lao Ek1ft- -garuisures ct the came are employed.
Illus st}le is also seen in silk where two shades
&se combined. Ii snch cases tue NECK is cut II
70 low atquara as to make the wsist merely d
bodice. Of the darker shade; while the clemi-
:ette-or roke As it really Isis puffed Of tue
ashief shade. As may be supposed. this is
specially becoming to slender dgures.l So popu-
hr ate these Thin necks and sleeves becoming,
ihas there Is fair prospect Of doing away "ith
@W,necked gowIs entircly.-a change that will
pe ma hslled By many with delight.
Writing Of
reminds no that the bottles to al partv-dresses,
E'ea ano loW,-apd sometimes to ainner-dressea
eo.-are laced behind, instead of buttoning in
.t2nt. 't. It Is leallv becoming; but it gives an
9ou, and rather gi1lish+ air to the waists of So
vi mlodle-aged women. The lacing is pecul-
.l'y con1ucivo to the close. cuilaes effect 20
1esued, and is specially adapted to round, YOUTH
tal ~, ngu1ee. For gIls and young women, these
aIsat 1ced bodies are, in the neck, cut pointed
9s1oEe and behind, the edge of the neck bor-
tstea bg Greclan folds OF the material aud
s.1lns tingle row OF plaited lace or Isso in-
4n ELEGANT DISEER-DREss
Il. nses this fashion. It is very pale cafe-au-
~ eloe- grain, and SO simple as almost to seem
@nate been made 60 by mistake. The lolg
nan has three, straight, back widths: wholly un-
sao1nented. and set On to the bolt in largo
i9uoe bo1-p1aits- The bottom Of the trout
aeaa:n and Two side cores is bordered By fin.
1;t'a1oe kulfe~plaiung. Heading that, Is pun
" n reversed plaits.-the plaits being the
~slsn ~ Of the knife-paits, Gnd the puff the width
=. ne tutle. Then, above this, laid On il
e.aaps Of three, with row OF inger-Wide, eelt.
kaese kueo t1neo, cdeing each group. arc tvo-lnoo
;.applng 1oids set dlagonally from the back goged
~ ~m, u, On tie night, to the corresponding sean
~ Me 1efr Tie waist is laced in the back has
s, ~ square bAsques bcfore and behind
~. ~ high in the neck, except in
na nuos* Ehere 1t is cut in deep but very narrow
rf9@paaour This is bordered By Two folds and
and IN inch-vide bo1-p1ailing OF silk ses
:ss.oe .:s.o the neck, to stand up like ruche. The
~ 49, g aye cllnglng coct-shape having narrow,
~, naf1ns cuff set under the edge of the sleeve
Aaas f1oishcd by o. large co-d), and turning
III I'D oFer the hand. Around the left sleeve
~ sS."As between wrist and elbow, is sied scarf
sa @e g1os- grain, with f,inged ends. This gor1
,ioa iaaos 20 plain and almost meagre in descrip-