Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-09-25

L. S. STEAMER SwATARA,
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC OCEAN,
SATURDAY, July 25th, 1874,
Lat. 8. $50, 81, 10; lon. 20, 81, As west.
We arrived at Bahia, Brazil, on the afternoon
of the 10th inst, after a delightful voyage OF
tbiTty-four days from New York. On the morn
ing OF that bright and beautiful tropical day
We espied land for the first time since leav-
ing the metropolis. We soon passed the Island
OF itapafica with Its numerous palm trees
looming up upon the horizon, and in a short
time after the outlines of the white domes and
towers of Bahia San Salvs 1or, the second CITY
Of the empire, were visible; an hour later finds
our noble ship at anchorage in the harbOr of
Bahia, within q mile of the city. Soon after
our arrival several officers from the English,
German, and Brazilian men-Of-war lying in
the hsrbor came aboard tO2 pay their respects;
in the meantime the Venus boys were investing
in the tropical fruits, as there were soon along
side of Gus several barges containing full sup
plies, and we very naturally were easily tempt
ed. Afoer waiting for a shower to cease (which
are very frequent at this season of the year.,
our steam launch was lowered, and but a few
moments elapsed before party of US were
ne aiding for the city. We soon passed the walls
OF circular fort built by the Dutch in 1924,
when they had possession of the place, and
from this point we had an excellent view
of the old fortresses on the hills that com
mand the harbor and entire city. Land
ing at the wharf near the custom house, L
proceeded to the lower portion of the town, and
was surprised TO fnd the streets so extremely
narrow and filthy. This is
ONE OF THE WINTER MONTHS,
however, which accounts in a measure for the
mud and slush, as at this season of the year it
rains most of the time, and is about as hot,
am told, as their summer. Leaving the lower
town, was transferred by means of an inn
mense elevator distance of over two thousand
feet to the upper portion of the city. This ele-
varOr Is huge affair and is the work of a cele-
brated English engineer-is run by steam, and
capable of carrying quite comfortably about
twenty persons. After stroll and sightseeing
Hotel FigueiTado, popular resort Of foreign
ers. The principal street in Bahia is called the
Ruada PraZa. The warehouses near hy are of
an enormous extent, and are said to be among
the largest in the world. The principal COM
mercial houses are situated on the Rua Nova
Commerce. and Am told they are the finest
blocks of buildings in all South America. These
editces would certainly be ornaments to sach
cities as New York, Philadelphia, &c. / was
not impressed very favoraoly with lower Bahia
The high buildings, although very old, are gem
orally of cheerful exterior. The streets in
this neighborhood are narrow, uneven, and
miserably paved, and during our stay were ex-
Temely filthy. Peddlers and carriers of every
description are seen in all directions, and groups
of beggars on nearly all the corners. The streets
that separate the lower from the upper town
are SO very irregular, and the ascent so steep,
II IL utterly impossible TO use vehicles of any
kind in this section; not even "twenty FIVE
cent cart" is to be seem consequently Burdens
of all kinds that require removal from one place
70 another are carried on the heads and shouI-
uere or men. Sugar in cases and cotton in balas
the principal exports of the city, are carried on
heavy poles, suspended between a dozen or
more tall, athletic negroes. This class, when
not otherwlse engaged, are to be seen loafiug
on corners, braidiDg straw hats, or living along
The alleys and streets, reminding one of so MANY
black snakes basking in the sun. They sing
and shout as they tramp slowly along with their
heavy burdens, and are evidently perfectly
happy and cOntented with their hard lot. As
0mnibuses and cabs are out of che question tina
Balkans have supplied a substitute, which they
call
THE CADEIRA,
a sort eft sedan char, similar, presume, to the
Chinese palanquin, and on nearly every corner
and in front OF the hotels can be seen any num-
Der of cadeiras, with their antique and orns-
mental curtainiDgs. The carriers are always
in readiness, and as you approAch them they
appear anxious for your patronage, and cry in
one voice, "Quer c2deira, senhOr?" (will you
have chair, sirD and L must say they show
much more civtlity than our carriage drivers OF
Washington. Bahia, like Rome, is a city OF
hills, and / should think the avocation of a
Bahian cadeira carrier anything but pleasant
one, as it Is evidently very laborious and tedious
work. A cadeira or two and negroes to bear
them is as an indispensable a luxury to a family
In Bahia as horses and carriages elsewhere.
The rank family maintains is indicated by
the eXpeDsiveness of the curtainlngs and orns-
ments of the cadeira. The city is nowhere
very wide and can boast of only three principal
streets, but from the extreme ends of Rio Yer
melhi and MODserrat Bahia extends probably
about seven miles. Water works have but re
Gently been introduced, the machinery for
which was brought from France. They are
situated on the eastern suburbs of the town aud
fnrnlsh bountiful supply of the potable ele-
ment to the city. On the outskirts of this city
is situated an old cathedral, an immense struc-
ture, which must have been constructed at an
enormous expense. aud is said TO be far superior
to any church in Brazil. In a wing OF this
building is the Public Library, from which
View Of tSe' Sarbos aTd sbS11a Commanding
this neighborhood can be seen the archi-
piscepal palace and seminary, as also the mill
tsry hospital, (once an old Jesuit college.) On
the strip of land called Montserrat there are
several old Notifications and numerous summer
reside nces, but the object that interested me
most in this vicinity was Roman Catholic
near here Is situate The yellow fever hospital. /
am told the attacks of this dread disease have
been extremely light of late years. visited the
public park in the extreme western portion OF
the city, from which place was presented with
most magnificent view of the harbor and sur
rounding country. From here could be seen
our good ship Swatara, and we could Just dis
Germ the stars and stripes as they waved
proudly to the southern breeze. was enrap-
tured with the lovely scenery, and sighed that
our sojourn in Bahia was to be SO brief. Here
we saw nearly every species of Brazilian birds
in long rows of large cages, and every tree Pc
culiar to Brazil adorns this lovely spot.
THE wAsHEKwoMEN OF BAHIA.
Bahia is great place for fountains, and they
arc sCattefeu pronlscuOusly throughout the
city, and at any time during the day can be seen
groups OF half nude negro women washing
clothes on the lawn near by. They aupear to
oe always at war with one another and jabber
az terrible rate among themselves in their
marsh and uncouth language. They carry their
oaoes IN sort OF hammack strung over the
PACK, and do not seem TO be in the least encum-
Dereo while at work; in fact. they 20 about
seemingly unconscious of the presence Of their
little ones.
At Bahia fresh supplies were taken on board,
ana also one hundred and fifty live tons of coal,
On the evening of the 14th instant we weighed
anchor and looked probably for the last tins on
the ancient and historical city OF Bahia San
Salvador. The first two or three days out we
experienced very rough weather and heavy
seas, which frequently washed with tremendous
force over the bows or the ship. Since then and
up TO the present time have had delightful
weather.
- CAPE Town, August 5th.
arrived mere this morning, and will remain in
Africas sunny cline for two weeks.
MRS. HOOKER CHANGES HER M1yp.-The