New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-04-20
EGYPT REVISITED.
p,v,pn TAYLOR IN ALEXANDRIA Afih"
oAiAnD iTwpNTY-TW0 YEARS.

hLhA Linz oco the north wind-the very |
- "EnroolydOn which once so lhlerierou VIZ"
s''io I - St Panl-grew finally tired OF blow
. and a light breeze with the promise OF Summer
on ia wings stole over the water from the unseen
I,bvan shore The gales which have conNu'seu 'ro
Mediterranean this Winter left only long uneasy
swell behind them, and we were even giad 10 escape
the sight of land coupled as 1t was ID SICILY ""u
Colabr;o and Crete with that of abundant snow
Winter is never so wearisOme as when one Is tIyIns
70 escape it, saw Egypt for the last time IN lS@'
when steamers were just beginning TO ply upon 'po
Mia and a line of very rude omuibuses crossed the
dosort from, Cairo TO Suez about once month"; |
There had been a survey for a railroad, believe,
hut the first spadeful Of earth had not yet Deeh
,nrned and the Suez Canal was among the things
not only unprotected, but almost unmentloned'
Abhas Pasha was making awkward attempts to
introduce the European military system, upon the
success of which further innovations seemed to be
waiting; SOudan hardly subjected to the
Egyptan rule, and Gondokoro, now the starting
pont of exploration on the White Nile was then its
farthest limit. My own journey to Central Africa
was something so unusual that 1t was considered
hazardous for scarcely dozen travellers bad pene-
trated into Nuba beyond the Second Cataract.
All these conditions have been wonderfully
changed and now, in returning for the second time
10 country which, seen. forever after attracts,
nv chief interest will be to ascertain what cor
respondng change has taken place in the condition,
the habits and the ideas of the people. 1t is still
an undecided point how far the requirements OF
modern civilization will-or can-be accepted by
any norton of the Oriental race since there are so
few which do not interfere with either religious
traditions OF social usages of nearly equal sanctty
There is no pemanence in an exotic civilization,
possessed only by the governing class as has been
the case heretofore; but now that ship, canal rail
way telegraph, and printingpress are owned by
Egypt, the native race must perfOrce change OF go
under. This much by way of explanation.
We took passage at Naples on the Rubattino
Italian line of steamers in consequence of reason
ablo recommendation. The little siOw-gOing
Stella however. with her berths in which you
could not lie at full length her cabin in which you
could not stand upright her delicate sympathy
with the least restlessness of the waves and her re-
fusa to make more than nine miles an hour under
the most favorable circumstances, was rather sore
disappointment TO the seven American and four
English passengers. But the fifth morning came at
last balmy and cloudless and before noon the
pharos of Alexandra lowered like faint streak
the far-sparkling water. The white houses on
the point, the Cape of Figs, the glare of the sandy
Libyan coast, the windmills and cumps of stumpy,
windb beaten paln-trees rose and blended into low
landscape, Just as had seen them before Then came
anew MOLE creating grand artificial harbor with
an inner port, crowded with vessels. The water was
alive with boats dOphins leaped through the dane
ing ripples and focks of snowy gulls crced in the
sun or dropped upon the waves. New-YOrk Bay, on
fair June morning is not more bright, breezy, and
Joyous MY former smatterng of Arabic seemed to
come back suddenly with the necessity for using IT,
and the vessel barely anchored before had bar
gained with boatman to take us ashore. In TACT,
We got away so rapidly that courteous Egyptian
officer was compelled to accompany us IN order that
there might be somebody to receive us at the almost
deserted slandng place. Passports are stll called
tor, which seems a most unnecessary regulation
since no fee is demanded dOucer of two francs to
the officer of customs the necessity of opening
trunks and the traveller is then admitted into the
whirlpool Of coachmen, nkey-drlveTs and pOrters,
waiting in the street outside. But the cries and
gcticuations mean nothing serious. and the stranger
who has been frightened by the representations OF
certain gude-boOks may possess his soul IN peace II
be only keeps a serene cOuntenance. Show signs or
timidity or bewderment. and the uproar may rise
10 a fearful pitch; announce your viii briefly, and
with an air of calm authority in either English.
French or Italian, and you viii be understood and
finally obeyed
In twenty minutes from the time we left the steam
ers deck we were seated in carriage, and threading
the narrow streets of the old town, on our way to
the Hotel d'Europe | only needed to say, III
Arabic. Il have been in Alexandria before" to
change the bowls of the porters into grns and stop
their clanor for more pay. The noises which fol-
lowed were simply picturesque-merchants crying
their wares warnings of coachmen and donkey
boys OF greetings and gossip in the open booths.
Here was old Alexandria still nor was there much
sign of change when we emerged into the dusty and
shabby Grand Square," A bronze equestrian
statue of Mohammed Ali. in the center thereof, now
A.. Eli, IS I lint
very slightly ones own faith in Art. The hotel has
added an immense sign, "Patronized by II. II. H.
the Prince of Wales" with the three feathers, but
emitting the "Ich dien," which thought bad
omen, until treasured by finding service and table
really good. far larger stream OF human life. and
. more motley mixture of nationalities, poured
through the square; otherwise L noticed but one
striking change This is the astonishing spread of
the English language within the last twenty years,
resulting both from the numbers of English and
American travellers who visit the East, and
the use Of the language by travellers
Of other nationalites. French, which until
within the last few years was indispensable,
has been slowly fading into the background and is
already less available than English for Italy and all
The Orient was little surprised, in Rome, at be-
ing accosted by native boot-black with, Shine up
your boots 7" In Naples every peddler OF canes
coral photographs, and shel-6sh knows at least
enough TO make good bargain but this is nothing
10 what one meets in Egypt. The brght-wItted
boys learn the language with amazing rapidity, and
are No apt at guessing what they do not literally
derstand that the traveller no longer requires in
terpreter. At the base of Pompeys Pillar to-day a
ragged aud dirty little girl came out Of fellah hut
and followed us, crying, GIVE me a ha' pennyp
All the coachmeu and most of the shopkeepers are
he words for their business