Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-09-02
DOWN THE ST. ENCE.
Letter HI.
Correspondence Of tn. STAR
OuRRRC.

Quebec, one hundred and eighty miles below
Montreal, has an attn action to all tourists. Ac.
cordingly, on the evening OF the 18th, we en-
barked at O'Clock on the steamer Montreal
belonging to the Richeieu company, con-
strucied On the model and after the fashion OF
the beet North river and Long Island sound
boats, and proceeded on our way doxn the St
Lawrence TO that point. There was quite a
number of persons on board, and among then,
We recognized the faces OF many whom we me
on the voyage down from the Thousand Islands.
Two other steamers left the wharf at the same
time, both of which seemed TO have q full com
Flement of passengers. The boat leaving at 80
late an hour, we had but about one hour OF day
light TO view the scenery. The river between
Montreal and Quebec is said to be less interest
ing TO the tourist than in any other part of it,
course, although the settlements are pretty
continuous, and the towns and villages numer-
Gus, exhibiting both W. alth and prosperity. The
steamer stepped az number of places during
the night to put OFT passengers and freight.
We rose early in the morning, so as to observe
as much of the scenery we could on ap-
preaching the city of Quebec. For the last ~
miles the banks on both sides are high and
rugged. AS the steamer nears Quebec the forti
fcatioDs and walls occupying the highest point
attract special attention. The harbor was the
next point OF absorbing interest, as well it
might be, for its forest of mssts extending for
miles along the quays, the white sails un-
der the shadow of the PERCEPTIONS shores, and
the frowniDg fortress on Cape Diamond, stu
ated 3i5 feet above the mean tide, and on which
the largest navies in the world might ride. The
river narrows very much Tor some distance
above the city TO Point Levy, opposite the forti-
hcati0ns, which is Its narrowest place. Among
the many ships in port was a French vessel OF
war, the I" Magiciene," and her tender, the first
armed vessel from France that had visited the
hsrbor since the surrender of that city to the
English arms in 1859.
Landing at the wharf we took an omnibus for
the st. Louis hotel, stu ated on street of the
same name in the upper part of the city, or
within the walls. We were driven up a narrow
winding, steep street, where the ascent was so
great as to tax the horses strength to their
short, invariably crooked, and the dwelling
houses and stores plain and without ornamenta-
ton.
Arriving at our hotel, the principal one within
the walls, we were struck by the plain exterior
OF the building, and still more so by the narrow
and inconvenient doorway by which the hote
lie entered. The house is large, however, anc
measur6bly well kept, and the walters attentive
aud petite. The house Is leased and kept by
New England man; the clerk, however. i,
French, and the help nearly all Irish. Persons
numerous in Quebec than in any other part OF
Canada. After partaking of a substantial
breakfast, the day being clear and pleasant. we
visited the Notifications, going first to the cita
del, and finally walking about the whole Gu
closure, the rarIparts and the towers. This
fortress is often called the
"GIBRALTAR OF AMERICA"
but it no longer presents the neatness and
busy, busting activity of former days, when il
was gsrrisoned by three thousand English sol
diers. 1t is well known that England withdrew
her forces from Canada in 1870. Only ntteen
British soldiers of the former garrison were left
behind to instruct their successors, the Cana
dian volunteers in military tactics. The one hun.
dred ard sixty Canadian volunteers now here
make martial show, but would, suspect.
make weak pretence of guarding the famous
citadel. Their duties now seem TO be TO drili
raw recruits and to act as escorts TO the tourist,
who visit the place rather than 10 perform mil
itary duty; and 1t NAV not be superfluOus ~
ada that the soldier who performs this unwar
ike duty does not scoTD 10 accept whatever
compensation in the form of "Her Majesty
coin may be offered ky the yistor in addition e
what he receives from the Canadian govern
ment. This Is The only fortfcatIOn OF European
character and pretentiOns on this continent. J.
was originally located by General Champls in
aid partially constructed b. him in 1920. This
general died in 1885.
In viewing these Notifications, which occupy
he crest Of cape Diamond, you are at ouce
reminded Of the great strategic Notifications o.
Europe by the "maTtellO towers" which are
bomb proof, by the deep trenches aqd under
ground connecting passages, and the double
line OF abatments. The martello tower
form kird of Gordon OF cutter forti6catiDns
whilst with The ramparts and bastions have d
circuit of about two mites, defending tbs
''Plains OF Abraham" and all the approaches
10 the city. These towers have no entrance
from the outside, but communicate with each
other and the main fort b. underground pas
sages. Thus the force in the towers may DC
maintained ana recruited from the main fort
The progress made in the ornaments for ar
lacking fortifcatiOn such as uebec has made
It necessary fer the Canadia an government %
erect at some distance from the city other forti
locations as outer detences. These are earth
works, which are indeed extensive Notifications
in themselves, capable not only of defense, bu,
Of commanding the fort itself.
Quebec has at present q population OF be-
tween eighty and.one hundred thOus and inh abit-
ants, and is everywhere full of the memories OF
Wolf and MontcalR. 1t will be remembered
that they were both killed on the same day,
September 18th, 1759-the one in defending and
the other in capturing the city. The same mon.
umeDtal shaft serves to commemorate the victor
and the vanquished. This tall and graceful
shaft stands in the Governors garden, overlook
ing the harbor. After having INDUCED in
delicious reverie en- the Plains of Abraham
one is again reminded of these heroes by seeing
their names on the business signs, saloons, and
pubiic houses. To the American the one story
frame house still standing in which the remains
OF Montgomery are said to have been carried,
and also the place where Arnold effected biz
landing Immediately under the walls of the
citadel are points of special interest.
In the corner OF the Dnilding standing at the
junction of Hildred and st. Louis street is Sc
stone with Maltese cross cut in it and bearing
the date of 1911. This building, or part of it,
was originally known as
"sT. LOUIS CASTLE"
1t is still in good preservation, and said to be
the oldest building standing in the city OF Que
bee, although not part of the first structure
erected in the city. 1t is now used for a public
school. A new Jail has been erected on the out
skirts OF the Plains of Abraham, which is a
large and elegant structure, and Is a noticeable
feature on approaching the city.
Quebec and st. Augustine, Florida, are the
only
WALLED CITIES IN AMERICA.
The latter has, however, a wall only on the
land side OF the city. These cities were founded
however, by different nations the one by
France, the other by Spain. The upper or old
and original city of Quebec is surrounded by
wall of nearly three miles in length, which
originally had FIVE gates, three Of which have
been recently removed, while one OF those re
naming, st. Johns gate, was In 1857 much en-
larged. These gates were kept carefully closed
and specially guarded during the recent Fenian
raid and excitement.
THE La VAL UNIVERSITY,
the chief educational institution OF lower
Canada, has fine grounds, and new and commo-
dious buildings, with one Of the largest libraries
connected with any college with which am
acquainted. The college owes its existence TO
the wisdom and benevOlence Of the first bishop
Of Quebec, Francois De Laval, OF the House OF
Montmorency, who endowed it with his amplr
private fortune for Q FIRST class university. II,
this college the professors dress In the doctor.
gown Ind cap common In Europe an u universities
while delivering their lectures and acting in ar
official capacity. Having been courteously &C