The New York herald., 1874-09-25
FALL FASHIONS.
Week in the
Metropolis.
LATEST STYLES AND MATERIALS.
A Bewildering Array Of Novelties
and Attractions.
THE LAY OF THE LAST MILLINER.

Opening day in the world of fashion has become
very uncertain date. No two modstes, gener-
ally speaking, can be found to hold their exhi-
bition the same day, and many wait until the
season is fully inaugurated before they display
their treasures Of the toilet. Although no par
ticular day may be considered as monopolizng the
fall openings, yet this particular week has been
the most brilliant IN the month. when the birds OF
fashion wing their way back from the country, and
for the last days the principal establishments
have been crowded. Although the styles are more
numerous tnan ever before taste and adaptabiiity
rule in the world of fashion The rage Tor trim
ming Is still on the increase ana the actual cost OF
q dress cannot be sometimes compared TO the
value Of the trimming and ornaments.
A gay carnival Of fashion mas been in progress
for the last lew days at Lord Tayiors, commend
ing on Monday last and extending over the entire
week. The lessons OF last years. panic have been
salutary in all the leading houses, and there may
be found a sensible decrease In prices Instead OF
costumes OF more than Oriental magnfcence,
costing from $500 to $780, we find the terms
ranging from $75 to $40O, very few being above
the latter figure. The variety Is bew1ldering In
the dress department. Black velvets and silks
that seemed little less than mass OF glitsering
jet; exquisite robes in chestnut and seal brown,
mulberry, invisible blue and green, wine and black
wear; fairy like creations in almost every delicate
hue known for evening and ball toilets, with the
daintiest things Imaginable for breakfast,
smOthered In beautiful laces and fn-
ished with coquettlsh bows and cneery
little bouquets OF artificial flowers, daring counter
teits OF nature. In head gear the display was no
less remarkable. There were modest cottage bon
nets OF the VIrot make, Normandles and Madame
Angots, with endless notifications or shapes In
l. mir
ostrich and COCKS plumes, wide, rich gros grain
ribbon double faced ribbons scarfs, different sorts
OF bonnet silks, artificial flowers, initiating nearly
every floral creation in the world; jet, bright and
blue steel, oxydzed ornaments and such variety
OF stuffed birds that Madame Fashion seems to
have exhausted the resources OF ornithoogy.
In the department OF wraps, polonaises, dol
mans, jackets, mantles, talmas and comfortable,
deep, old fashionedooking cloaks were many
features OF interest. The garments were in vel
vet velvet and castor beaver, French trlc0t, drap
d'ete, wool, tissue de Matelasse, sometimes gis-
tening with jet and displaying fringe lace, fine
1urs and other handsome garniture. Among the
shAwls were marvels from Cashmere, with almost
rainbow hues, and yet soft as In the richest vel
vet In the Otner departments there existed an
equally bewlldering variety OF styles and ma
terlals.
The tall opening at A. T. Stewards was more
brilliant than ever. In the millinery department
the display OF hats at tracted hundreds OF admirers
The inventive power of the Partisan modiste Is
here shown iu its most seductive form. Tne Orna-
ments especially the combinations OF blue steel
and old dlgreed silver, are very quaint and strk-
ing. Birds from the wilds Of Africa and the
hats, so natural that one might at frst fancy
that they mad Just alighted on the dainty struc..
suits Of all kinds and colors IN puce, dark gray;
Byron, prune; bouteille, boltle green; carmete,
shades; acajou, mahogany brown and sylene,
| new purple. There Is also new shade OF garnet
handsome house costume was made with trained
! skirt, having the back Dreadths garnltured by
fecty plain and presented two wide bands Of black
velvet put on in apron style. The dress was COM
Of SIX X Of elegant quay 9
naise was also richly trimmed with black velvet
and heavy silk fringe. The corsage was very.
black velvet, when were finished with jet pend
ants. Altogether this was one OF the most stylish
away by some married lady to grace her 1rst 1all
Another in lighter style, intended for a young
and newly married lady who, until recently has
been leading belle, was lovely combination OF
Pale lavender SIX reeyea Sy one in Ss M
fine white lace. 1t was intended Tor evening wear,
and served as tasteful model the SKIRT was
graduated flounces between walcn were ruiiings
OF wnlte lace. Down each side extended two
which was perpendicular pufllng OF the darker
shade. The front breadth was en- taoue,' and
while the corsage, the "Honora" basque, was
heart shaped in the neck and ornamented in
Many novel and becoming features In bonnets
were exhibited by Nine. Snedden. rhey served
to remind the beholder by their autumna! char
and that the blight giowiug tlnts OF spring and
summer have vanished with the seasons. great
feature OF the season are the feathers; every
hue greets the eye, anu 1t would really puzzle
a very astute ornlthologist to say from whence
apparently the world has been fansacked to
furnish new garniture for our lair ones. Birds
win he Indispensable this season, as also autumn
leaves, and the styles quite becoming TO ALL
A most dtsttn9ae chapeau from Mantel Theresa
rim Of tue arng character trimmed WITH whte
velvet Marguerltes, loose SKIRT OF green velvet
OF the same shade as the hat s1rmounting the
tiiiy lace, forming a drapery. long green shaded
pune is fastened at the back with very effec-
Another is a black velvet bonnet from the cele-
brated virot. 1t resembles the well known gypsy
shade. the 'front.' rolling back, in which nestles q
rare and costly bird OF dazzling plumage.
From TIE pack hangs IN graceful 10 iods .,,au long
fastened at the side with lemon coored roses.
There were others Of Partisan manufacture, each
presenting decided novelty ~, p cnape1an oI steel 81
the season, and, although OF American make, we
must confess that 1t fully equals, II not surpasses,
Seautiiul and admired sTrianon." It is principally
composed OF the shade OF steel blue velvet men.
toned above ana Is Ornamented with feathers OF
the same color and a steel blue butterfly, nesting
in lace, which Is carried around the side and
droops at The back.
At Nine. Demorest's there was the usual variety
Of stylish display seasOnable designs. con-
spicuOus among the polonaises we're those IN the
'Jacketo style-that Is SO arranged as to have the
eject OF jacket and overskirt or this style is
the 'Lenobia," which Is dOube-breasted and
forms jacket IN front, over skirt which Is put
toned on one side TO match the jacket. This
Jacket extends as far back as the side forms, and
STYLES This design Is elegantly made IN back or
dark brown mateasse, ornamented with leather
trimming.
The "Griselda" Is another exponent OF this style,
and has the jacket at the back and sides only,
while the front Is In one piece and buttoned all The
way down. The drapery IS IN the middle OF the
back, and deep collar adds to the general stylish
effect. Both these styles are especially suited to
the handsome wooden goods OF the season.
Tho atAdrippnpit difara IN iraiu fror L.