Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1874-09-29
FALL FASHIONS.
Opening Week I'm New YOrk-A BE-
Wfidering Array Of Novelties.
New Work Herald SAINT o.

110NAD0 - AAOlotOA1NAAAss bnC A1AA
yet this Particular week has been the most
brilliant in the month, when the birds of
fashion wing their way back from the eoun-
try, and for the last few days the principal
establishments have been crowded. Al
though the styles are more numerous than
ever before, taste and adaptability rule in
the world Offashion. The rage for trim
ming is still onthe increase, and The actual
cost Of dress cannot be sometimes COM
pared tc the value Of the trimming and or
nameIlts.
the lessons of last years panic have
been salutary in all the leading houses,
and there may be found a sensible decrease
in prices. Instead of costumes of more
than Oriental magnifcence, costing from
$500 to S1,500, we find the terms ranging
from SIS to $500, very few being above the
latter figure.
In the millinery department. the inven-
tive power of the Partisan modiste is here
shown in its most seductive form. The
ornaments, especially the combinations of
blue steel and old filigree silver, are very
quaint and striking. Birds from the wilds
of Africa and the forests of Brazil are
perched ON some of the hats, so natural that
one might at first fancy that they had just
alighted on the dainty structures. In the
dress department were exhibited suits of
all kinds and colors, in puce, dark gray;
Byron, Prune; bouteille, bottle green; car
melite, reddish brown; violetta, the same
in still darker shades; acaj0u, mahogany
brown, and sylene, new purple. There
is also new shade of garnet called cine
raire, and iris, new prune color. A hand
some house costume was made with trained
skirt, having the back breadths garnitured
by deep fiOunce, while the font breldths
were perfectly plain and presented two
white bands of black velvet put on in
apron style. The dress was composed of
silk of elegant quality and of a very dark
shade of purple. The "Marguerite" polo
naise was also richly trimmed with black
velvet and heavy silk fringe. The CO.
sage was very stylishly ornamented with
bands of black velvet, which
were finished with jet pendants. Altogether
this was one of the most stylish designs
for the autumn, and it will be lisely borne
away by some married lady to grace her
first fall reception.
Another in lighter style, intended for a
young and newly married lady who, until
recently, has been a leading belle, was a
lovely combination of pale lavender silk,
relieved by one somewhat darker, while
the whole was lightened in effect by fine
white lace. 1t was intended for evening
wear, and served as tasteful model. The
skirt was trained and trimmed in the back
breadths with graduated fiounces between
which were rulings of white lace. Down
each side extended two broad rulings of
The lighter shade of silk, between which
vas perpendicular putting of the darker
shade. The front breadth was en- tdblier.
and trimmed with bands of the darker silk
and lace, while the corsage, the "Honora"
basque, was heart-shaped in the neck and
in a style to match the skirt.
Many novel and becoming features in
were exhibited. They served to
emind the beholder by their autumnal
character that we had reached the melsn-
holy days, and that the bright glowing
ints of spring and summer have vanished |
With the seasons. A great feature of the
eason are the feathers; every hue greets |
he eye, and it would really puzzle very
Lstute ornithologist to say from whence |
anne all the many colOred plumages for |
which apparently the world has been ran
aeked to furnish new garniture for our
air ones. Birds will be Indispensable this |
eason, as also autumn leaves, and the |
tyles are quite becoming to all.
A most disttRgUe chapeau was a superb |
made of dark green velvet, having a rim of |
he flaring character, trimmed with white |
-elvet Marguerites, a loose skirt of green |
-elvet of the same shade as the hat sur
mounting the crown, the ends being trim |
ned with wide Chantilly lace, forming
lrapery. A long green shaded plume is |
astened at the back with a very effective |
,lnament and droops toward the face.
Another is black velvet bOnnes. II re- |
embles the well known gypsy sh ade, the |
ront rolling back, in which neStles a rare
md costly bird of dazzling plumage.
From the back hangs in graceful folds a
ong veil of jetted tulle, trimmed with
and fastened at the side with
emon colOred roses. There we've others
# Partisan manufacture, each presenting a
lecided novelty. A chapeau of steel blue
"a new colOr-is one of the chefs G0suUre
If the season, and, although of American
make, we must confess that i fully equals,
f not surpasSes, some of the Partisan de-
ign. The shape is the ever beautiful and
admired 'sTriannon." 1t is principally
composed of the shade of steel blue velvet
llEllltOlitu dDOfNs anu ID tllldluGAANCu Win
feathers of the same color and a steel blue
nesting in lace, which is carried
around the side and drOOps at the back.
Conspicuous among the pOlOnaises were
hose in the s.iacket" style-that is, so ar
anged as to have the effect of a jacket and
,verskirt. OF this style is the SLenobia,"
which is dOuble-breaSted and forms jacket
N front, over a skirt which is buttoned on
)ne side to match the jacket. This jacket
extends as far back as the side forms, and
he sides of the skirt part are draped in
lifferent styles. This design is elegantly
made in black or dark brown matelasse,
with leather trimming.
The ''Griselda' is another exponent of
his style, and has the jacket at the back and
sides only, while the front is in one piece
and buttoned all the way down. The
irapery is in the middle of the back, and
leep collar adds to the general stylish
effect. Both these STYLES are especially
suited TO the handsome wooden goods of
he season.
The "Adrienne" differs entirely from
.hese, although it is a 'basque pOlOfaise."
1t has an exceedingly long skirt, the front
closed part of the way down and draped at
the sides so that the back hangs longer and
square. The basque forms two deep tabs
al the sides of plating and the neck is fin
ished with a collar rolled in the back and
forming deep, pointed revers in front.
The "Neilson" is decidedly one of the
most diStiRgue designs yet offered in jack
cts. This is double-breasted diagonally,
and is only half fitting. The back has two
deep taps and is opened up the middle,
but tapped so as to match the front. Es--
pecially designed to accompany this is the
adelaide" overskirt, which is covered in
front in the same way as the jacket. The
back is draped in a new style and Ihe sides
Of the front are shired. The s1Frederica"
Jacket is somewhat in the "Cuirass" style,
so far as a Straightforward effect is con-
cerned, but it is opened in front on a sep
arate vest.
In house basques the ''Mathilde" is
simple in style, but very effective, with its
plated vest of silk. The "Cushman" is
more in the coat style, and the "Teresa,"
which is much longer than either, is es-
pecially suited to the very heavy goods.
The "Claxton" overskirt can be very ap-
used with any of these styles.
1t forms deep, pointed apron, reaching
nearly to the bottom of the underskirt, and
is draped very far back in the latest and
most approved style. The "Fayorita" is
extremely long, open at the right side, and
draped high on the left under an aumo-
Mere.
Two new demi-trains-the "Ophelia"