The New York herald., 1874-03-27


play OF novel ana unique designs for which this
establishment Is noted Among the chapeaux the
ELISA" a decided novelty, attracted especial at
tentlon. This Is OF undressed chip the crown
rather high ana the brlm turned up In front to the
top OF the crown, IKE q ''Dlrectolre" shape re-
versed, but much narrower aud dropping at the
sides and IN the back. The Drlm IN front Is lined
with silk OF a delicate lavender TINT, shirred ana
an Alsacian bow OF the same silk is placed dag
onay upon IL, as If 10 confine IL against the crown
Each side OF the bonnet is trimmed in ulstinct
style, aud the usual manner oil trlinniing
loops and platlngs OF six which compose
the garniture being placed upright instead Oh
dropping garland oi heliotrope Is carried Ia al uiag ~
onally across the crown, an exqusiteiy shaded UP
OF lavender and violet is curied up over tne crown
on the lett side and the lace on tne Opposite sue ~
confined by an ornament OF lnaid pearl. Inc
strings are wide scarls oil dotted blacK lace.
charming and coquettlsh fancy Is bonnet
alter the style Of the Spanish mantllla made OF
rea. spanish blonde, without lrame Ii Is III re-
ahty large square OF lace, artisticaily arranged,
one corner falling low in the back and two others
to be crossed in 'front.' on the bosom ana fastened
with a cluster of flowers. large Alsaclan bow OF
black gros grain ribbon is placed directly in front
and Cluster of varegated roses without foliage,
little 10 the lett. Ii Is intended more especially Tor
an evening bonnet, and viii be particularly be-
coming Tor "A brunette.
rhe '.prma donna" is OF undressed chip, the
brm turned up all around, and open and crossed
loops and roueauX OF lignt blue gros grain. with
luli blown roses-white, light and dark pink and
lemon color, placed separately and without foliage,
and lemon colored tip which curls upward over
the crown on the right side.
Inc "DucueSS de Berrl,' OF Olack Brussels net,
has an elaborate bandeau OF jet enclrclng the high
pulled crown and plating OF rose colored gros de
suez inside the dIooping brlm OF black lace. A
pomPon and aigrette OF light blue and rose color
lntermIXed are placed IN 'front.' and large, up
right bow OF rose colored SILK sustained by
cluster OF tea roses and blue flowers, finishes the
back.
Another in the same shape is OF black beaded
lace elaDoratey trimmed with Jet sprays and
braided trimming lace, and a garland OF deep GRIM
son roses
Louis KILL hat is OF black lace. embroidered
W iaf fha anna
trimmed with tea roses and light blue tips and an
agrette.
dresses at Nine. Demorest's establishment are un-
usually attractive this season. The polonaise, or
street Costumes, but has been to great extent
displaced by the basque, to be worn either with
an overskirt or eIaborately trimmed underskirt
for toilets and house costumes One OF the pret-
test Of the new polonalses Is the "Marltana,"
which Is crossed diagonally In front and has two
broad sashes depending from pointed basque IN
the back. The 'Hyaclnth' is especially appro-
pirate Tor summer silks and similar materials. 1t
has a draped apron and pointed vest and the
sides OF the fronts are continued IN long sashes
which are arranged so as to support the drapery
in the back, which Describes two deep points.
the "Leone" Is a 'practlcal'' pattern, which
can be adapted to almost any style OF goods 1t IS
quite plain in front and Is gracefully lo0ped in the
materials. The ''Fideia" illustrates an entirely
novel style OF drapery and the "AnelIa" is partic-
In basques the "viva' coat is D the latest novelty.
This has long skirts III the back like gentleman's
'dress'' coat; but the too masculine effect is mOd
fed by the addition OF sash. The fronts
crossed dlagonally, ana the epaulets and English
collar add TO the unique effect. The ''Christabel"
has the very narrow ''French" back, with cascade
plalts below he waist The "Laurel' is quite
long. with deep, square vest. and Is leaf shaped
IN the back. The "harlra" Is the newest style IN
a sleeveless basque although any basque be
used In tnat capacity II desired by simply adding
sleeves OF q different material.
skirts is the ''viviep" which forms a deep pointed
apron, reaching nearly to the bottom OF the skirt,
which Is draped on the hips and finished In the
back with d broad sash. The ''Estelen Is particu-
larry appropriate for ordinary wear as it is ex-
ceedingly simple, having perfectly plaln long
apron and slight but graceful drapery in the back.
The ''Azalia" is crossed dIagonally in and Is
very short in the back. ana finished in basque
design.
The Iavorite and fashionable pured sleeves are
shown in great variety. The 'Brassard," as Its
name implies, has the pufs separated by broad
down the back, separated by narrow bands, and Is
finished with hign pun at the shoulder and a
ou euT az th eG ton cu at he
tom. and Is altogether an unusually becoming
Sleeve
The designs for children's garments are quite as
varied and attractive as those for ladies'; and
mothers cannot fail to pronounce them practical
and appropriate, as well as stylish and graceful.
Alter Easter another grand display OF spring
fashions will take place at the leading houses.
very interesting feature OF the present season Is
the enormous increase IN the seamless glove trade,
which, originating with Harris Brothers, has now
reached unusual proportions. France Switzer-
tnis Ganarrment of the ~ fash,nnah,a ~ viii IN IN
America, and the imports according to the Gus
tom House returns, are enormous. The number OF
buttons on the fashionable glove varies from one 10
SIX. and in the seamless pattern perfect MT Is at
talnaDle
The possibility Of q nelc issue Of incOnUe,rib1e
paper regard souh anazeaent and anxiety, and,
nly judgment, such issue 1cOuld be detri-
nle7tt and q ShdDls.-CHARLES SUMNER.