The Weekly Kansas chief. [volume] (Troy, Kan.) 1872-1918, 1874-03-19
for the farmer.
FENCING MARCH.

The time is fast approaching when it will be
necessary to adopt some more economical use OF
timber for enclosures than common rail fence.
There have been various plans suggested. Some
which we consider most commedable Will be no
ticed as this time.
For posts, cedar, mulberry and locust make the
most durable; but as these are expensive, and
difficult in many places to be procured, second
growth chestnut and swamp or burr oak give
good satisfaction. For q common post and board
fence, cut the logs six feet nine inches long;
saw them three and half inches by five and
half, and make the posts of uniform size at each
end; set them top down about two feet fonr in
ches deep, that they may be below the effects OF
if tenacious, seven feet will do. Most sorts of
timber will answer for boards; saw them seven
eighths thick, eight inches wide for the bottom,
and six inches for the balance. Five boards pro
perly spaced, will make q good, substantial
fence, four and half feet high
Another plan for dispensing with the bottom
board Is by blowing about three burrows TO the
fence, and thus forming the dirt into mould,
which should be seeded with some hardy grass.
This is an excellent plan, when practicable, for
the unnatural position the animal must assume to
leap IL makes it quite discouraging. When the
posts are firmly set, and boards well fastened
with fence nails, it is best to dispense with the
cap and batten, for they retain moisture and rot
the boards.
In about ten or twelve years the boards should
be loosened, and with a chain and lever, while
the ground is soft, raise the posts, change ends,
giving tap or two with the beetle, renal the
bnaIds, and the fence is quite as good as new.
We have failed to test the durability of this
fence, for the want of time, yet we believe it
will be q cd for twenty OF twenty-five years.
Charring, or coating the posts with coal tar,
produces hard shell on the outside, tending TO
retain moisture within, making it Of doubtful
expediency.
Where boulders are plenty, the cheapest and
most durable fence is made by blowing few
burrows; scrape out the dirt, and place the boul-
ders in; set posts, five feet long, upon n fat
stone, taking care that it is sufficiently high I"
prevent their being saturated with wafer; build
up with stone, to make the posts stand firmly,
on which nail two six-inch boards; and bank up
the sides to prevent the action of FROST A fence
of this character has stood fifteen years without
repairs to speak Of, and is apparently as good as
ever.
For a barnyard fence, saw the posts six inches
square, saving again in the centre, to admit the
boards, and low enough to come within four in
ches of the ground. After the posts are set place
the boards in, bring the two sides together. In
ring three or four holes with hit of the proper
size, to be followed by a common six-nch cut
spike, they being previously heated, tn tOughen
them, then take refuse sheet-iron. punch hnles
and cut into proper size for washers. With
little skill, these will answer every purpose for
riveting, at trifiing expense. Cap substan-
tally, and the COX wont to push with his horns"
will be reminded of a serious impedimenr to his
liberty.
The best gate is made of scantling and boards
we'll braced, and swung hinges to fasten it.
self by wire spring. Set the posts deep, filling
the bottom, for one foot, with broken stone and
waterlime cement, which must always be below
frOst.-Ohio Farmer.