The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1874-01-02
THE M DOR S.
The Herald Correspondent
Visits Tangier.
IATIVE JEALOUSY OF FOREIGNERS.
Ride Through the Country with
q Gorgeous SlaVe.
ARAB HOSPITALITY

The rumor that o civil war had broken out in
Morocco and that sanguinary struggle had been
Snaugurated for succession to the throne OF the
deceased despot Sid M0hammed, Emperor OF
Morocco decided me TO abandon my intention OF
returning into the bosom OF civilization, ana TO
once more renew acquaintance with the tabled
Anric land in order that the readers the HERALD
should be fully informed OF what was passing in
tnis beautiful but neglected aud misgoverned cor
ner OF the earth. Morocco within few hours
sail of civilization, and yet perhaps, less is known
OF the people and their government by the ma
jority OF the reading public than Is known OF the
tribes In the interior OF Africa The inhabitants,
without being SO rude and uncivilized as the
black tribes OF the South are far more exclusive IL
their ideas and more hostile to foreigners. They
are also fercer and Drawer, SO that intercourse
with them Is extremely delicate, except in the
few towns on the coast, where the dread
OF condign punishment makes any interference
with the Christian dogs dangerous. 1t would be
very rash experiment. however, for any one sup
posed TO be a Christian to venture alone into the
interior, as he would almost to certainty be
murdered either from ianaticsm or greed, or prob
ably the mixed motive of serving Allah and self at
the same time. 1t would, perhaps, be too much TO
expect true believer to resist the temptation OF
earning place in heaven, and at the same time
lining his purse with a few hundred dollars, which
ing these conditions in mind resolved to set ont
In light marching order. tnat il 1t should be de-
sirable proceed to the interior the evil disposed
would have as little inducement as possible TO try
the effect OF their ko0eiah or long guns on my
person.
A steamer for Tangier leaves the port OF Gibral-
car every other day with that marvellous pune
tuality upon which the true-born Britsher always
brides hImself,, and which is like many other
things upon which that self-complacent parsonage
strokes himself DOWNFALL sham. The hotel people
In the morning pretended to be in an awful fuss
lest should miss the boat, which advertised
to sail to the minute Of O'Clock A. NJ, so 1 was
bundled OF when was just in the middle Of my
breakfast and really beginning to eat something.
However time and tide walt for no man, thought,
and the old saw by force had to console me for
the loss of breakfast. "It's after ten, sir but
wen catch her." said a sarcastic scOundrel who
pretended to take an immense interest in my well
fare with view to a shilling on embarcation. BY
the time reached the dirty pier below the market
where the landing place is, the perspiration was
rolling down my face SO hurried had been the
march in a broiling sun through busting way
farers down to this starting point. can right
str, she's there yet" said the fellow who had taken
me in charge; and sure enough, there was q
steamer away in the distance, lying TRANQUILITY in
the smooth water, swelterin9 under the hot sun
beams. AS we wrigged out OF the crowd Of small
craft and lumbering-looking boats with their
shouting and gesticuating crews the little black
steamer came more fully into view, and l was
somewhat surprised to notice that there were no
boats about her nor any sign of steam However
the assurance Of the men that the steamer would
60 out sharp removed all suspicion, especially as
the absence Of movement was explained by saying
that another steamer had sailed the day before
carrying number OF passengers. AS we drew
near the men were washing up the deck in
careless way. and, so far as ocular evidence went
there was none to show that any serious intention
existed to go to sea for month In answer
to our hail, however we were told that an inten-
ton did exist to leave port that day. but when the
hour OF sailing was mentioned the sailor assured
rs, jibngly, that ten A. NJ. at least half past
twelve, evidently looking any one foolish
enough to place reliance on sailing advertise
ment as an extremely
FRESH SPECIMEN OF LAND LUBBER.
The scoundrel who had betrayed me into the
pleasant position Of having broil on the deck OF
. dirty little steamer for two hours and half un-
der the preteuce OF care for my interests, I am
fully convinced made me lose my breakfast and
undergo the roasting for his own personal con-
venience; but the climax Of the joke was reached
when, with Christian Like forgiveness 1 pre-
sented the fellow with half a crown in consdera-
tion Of his meritori0us service he wanted half
sovereign. Now, this was too much to be borne
90 advised the fellow, with classic curtness 90
TO the hotel and leave me to swelter in peace,
hoping that in the distant future he would not
And himself In similar, put still more unpleasant
quarters.
Two hours ana half in an almost landlocked
bay, with not the slightest whisper OF a breeze,
and the sun directly overhead, shooting down his
beams on your devoted head, and even the water
seeming hot and molten like liquid gold, is pretty
long stretch to wait through; but it comes to an
end at last Those long hours would have been
unbearabe had not some shore boats come on
with cargo, and Moorish and Jewish merchants
who constantly pass and repass between Tangier
and the Rock, only in so cosmopolitan a place
could such a collection OF picturesque dirty-look-
ing souls be met with, for amount of contact
with civilization can make the low Arab ANYTHING
but the dirty, shutting fellow he is,
TEE RIVAL OF THE sPANIARD
IN uncleanliness as in blgotry, fanaticism, igno-
rance and conceit. Notwithstanding tae distrac-
ton Afforded by these types Of a semi-cvllized
society and several alterations between Spanish
boatmen and some Moorish sailors, the anchor
came up with pleasing sound, and in q few min
utes we were steaming out OF the harbor rapidly
Raining close for some time 10 the Spanish
coast could see quite distinctly the solid atch
towers built on commanding points to give notice
Oi Tue approach oi the barpary corsars ana 10 re-
sss their landing In the days when the M0ors were
san strong enough to prey on the commerce OF the
Christians and to harass the maritime populations
Of the Mediterranean by frequent descents on
guarded points. In our own day these towers serve
the more pr0saic purpose OF watching smugglers
and preventing the contraband trade which has al
ways been very actively carried from the Rock to
the very great injury OF the Spanish revenue. Apes
Hill, the African Pillar Of Hercules, looking gray
and shattered, rises bold and rugged almost in
fsce OF Gibraltar, and the mountains on the Bar
barry coast sweep back into the country in mag
nifcent masses; but in the direction OF Tangier
they gradually sink until finally they seem lost In
the sea at Cape spsrtel which dimly seen in the
Instance dipping humbly into the sea. The hills
along the African coast are bleak ana tnhosnitahle