, 1874-09-27
FASHION,.
The Vatican Plait and Matelasse
Silks.
P|aids 80. Elaborate Trimmings ---
Short Skirts.
Skunk and Seal Skin-..Laces---Lingerie."-
Globes--- ---Coifrurc---Robes for
Infants.


4hianl9'
CHICAGO.
The openings during the past week nave gwen
s11nost erery ono fair idea OF what is to be e1~
pccted, the coming winter. in the way OF lash
ionable ado1nment, and attest the truth OF those
hints Which We have already given to the public.
That the oyerskrt is still retained in many cos
tunes, the foreign imcortations have sufficiently
proved md even tue polonalsc is not altogether
discarded, but shows itself in certain modified
forms Tho most striking features in the new
coatumcs however, are the Watteau plat which
forms the trnin,. and tho introduction Of Mate
lasse silk in all the most elegant reception and
street costumes.
THE wATTEAu pLA1r
is simply triple box-plait formed OF the back
treadths which are one or two in number. de-
pending upon the material. In velvet. If
trimmed at tho bottom. Gs such materinl usually
is, with wido 1ounce, a single breadth Is 6ufh-
cient. In silk, two widths generally 60 to the
making up Of this fullness. This plait is so
fastened as only to spread out at the bottom.
otherwise holding the front andside widths closo
to the form. These aro variously trimmed; but
MI the trimmings have fat effect, whether
folds or even r,lt11es. Folds with fat trimmings
Of lace or passemcutere seem to have the pref
e1encc for oil except the bottom Of tue sklrt
eud train. Here sido-plaitngs, sometimes 1e-
ycrsed, a-o generally used. Velvet and silk arc
the farotito combinations to which camels hair
is also added fer walking costumes, With admir-
able effect.
THE NEW MATELAssE
ia, however, tie decided feature of nil new gar
menta or costumes. 1t is used in 30 many diff
ferent Ways that we. can OILY hint at a few Of
them. First We find the culrasEe nade ct 1t.
Then it is sometimes used for the entire over
6resg, or the apron may be made Of it, and it
mar form part Of tho Natteau train, or eide
brcadths may be introduced, or haf-jacEet.
In fact, the devices are SO numerous that it may
be used in almost any way; but costume
without it seems incomplete. Trimmed With
feathers or fur, it makes elegant outside
garments and mufIs. y beautiful c1onk
Of black Matelasso had wide uinl-
ming, like 3 1uche Of crows feathers; below
which fell deep fringe OF pasRementcrie balls,
which ought to be much in request in Chicago,
they are 20 ample and comfortable Ono Of black
wolsted Matelasse, With long, drapery-sleaves
beneath which are closer sleeves, trimmed with
silver-fo1 fur, made one almost Wish it we're
winter, and she the happy oTucr Of SO genuine
a frost-repcl1e--
yrLrET GARMENTS
Ere in various forms. Some arc polonalscs
proper, curiously looped and elaborately triln-
med with Cbantllly jet.+ feathers, or fur; others
arc shown. Most Of the outer garments,
however, show IN amplitude not recent
~ seen in our winter-costumes. Tho
long French sacque is also among
the new importations, and will be widely copied
in goods OF home-maaufacture. It looks awk-
ward at first, but We shall no doubt soon begin
to recognize it as the moet stylish Of garments
shall have shorter skirts. I'ous who arc per-
fcctly well acquainted With Chicago Sidewalks
aud Chicago winters, this seems m inestimable
boon. Let us only hope that it may bo carried
out Tight sleeves are also considered the per
lection Of good taste; and the cuirasse must be
worn. This is merely basque, with sleeves Of
different material in many cases. That ia, in e
dress Of si1k and velvet, the basque should be Of
tho velvet, cut very Hnort Oh tho shoulder.
while the sleeves aro made OF the alE
These short ehoulder-scams necessitate n
genuine ceat-shaped sleeve, the top Of which ia
precisely similar 10 that of~a gentleman's coat.
In no other WAY can the proper curve and full |
ness be assured. |
considered quite the thing. *on Warm days, to |
wear black silk- with oyersklrt and cuirasse OF |
sllyor-gray serge There are many days IN the |
autumn when such dress would be appropriate;
U1t the Wantcf villa SO 60GH be upon uS tilAt We
naturally turn to the heavier goods. While
PLA1DS
arc presented to us, let it be distinctly under
stood that they are not bright tartans therefore,
the person who has had lying inside some
old dresa tnat would pale. the brightest
be IN the height Of the fashion il she renodels
and wears lt.-not even if ehe joins somo allte- |
da1uvian alpaca OF silk with it.. Saying that |
there is 1evivifcation OF plaids means that !
ff,nfr
selves. They a1e rough,-lookinG as il they had
met much hard usage in the resuscltatipg pro-
cess, and nre very wan, with only faint trace |
Of color in them. The striped goods in heavy
glimpse Of the darkest shade OF the new Cardi-
nal color, arc much worn abroad, and are rec
commended as slight innovation on the abao-
1utely neutral shades. These are trimmed with
bows and sashcs OF black lined with the Cardinal
color, Which ouly shows at the edge.
We era not apt to look upon
TIE SKUNK
us being particularly y-preaentable animal in
p2Iite society it is not creature one would Be-
iect - pet for 3 fayorite child and in fact
it has generally been regarded in such IN igno-
u1iutons manner that'its very name has seemed !
eu oGeusa but, for several yea1s. it has been
rising in popular favor on account OF its fur.
Under several names it has been used for trim
m1ng fashionable garments, md this yea1 it vii
be more popular than over. It will be used OIL
very dark camels hair and will sometimes be
manipulated SO as to present d few gray haiEs.
and thus belle its Original character.
How far eeal-sktn will remain in favor,
wo have .yot to SEQ. It is close
ly initiated this winter by a heavy |
plush; and that, in itself, is enough to
doom lt,-for it usually happens that, whom |
fashionable article il 20 closely copied in soruo
much cheaper material as to be difficult to dis
t:usuish except By cultured eyes, then the great
1nass OF the fashionable world cease to caro- for
the original fabric. What will replace it We can
s'ot At yet prophecy, but it seems ~ if ita day
was over
1t would seem as It velvet va. handsome
enough in itself only to require slight trim
;,i- of fine lace. or perhaps . little passemen-
vie; la1 slach il not tue present decree Of
..tL:o,i. Velvet,
LIKE ALL OTHER FABRICS
:.s:~t tie covered all over, either with silk EN-
*..':!t:y, jet passemcnterie, or arabeEque pa.-
;'.n- Of q silk tubular braid. Few, except those /
w:,oae pursee arc orerhowing, care to hare an
:'ssant velvet thus destroyed; for, after tho
fashion has onco gone by, the garment is use
less; go it follows that the cheaper grades Of
valTes will be more ia demand this winter. This |
-a1rlus Of ornamenta:ion eoon wcaries and one
gladly turns to the fcv i1unprfad rArrnents that