Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-10-03
EVENING STAR.
DOUBLE SHEET
NEW YORK fashions.

G oseiy mat strings or elastic are almost super
! nloOs. Ladies have discovered there IL ss much
difference in the ct OF bonners rs la that OF cor
saEes or IN the drsping OF skirts. La the present
styee IL Is necessary that the sides Of the crOEn
| NJ snngly, a. the projecting front or bTim does
| nothing tosard securing the bennett on tue head.
The "halo" brim is far wider than that seen in
| the earliest tmportstiOns; IL IL sOmaumes
| straight, and of the same width all arouai, but
| IN most cases IL sccentnRted 90 q point, either in
| front or on the LETT side OF the front. SMOOTH,
| covered crowns and plainly piped brims show
| ing clear outlines, promise 20 be more popular
| thsn the soft pnred crowns sud Pleatsd 6rims
| shown early IN the season. Simpf folded Sc .rf
| OF Iros gram smooth cord piping s on edaas and
| the most upright ioops are the trimmings that
distinguish stylish hats. The sbund snce OF n w.
| ere Dsed exceeds that OF any pre- riOas season.
| thitteen roses being counted IN = single Fren.h
hat. Flowers sre DISPOSED OF in clusters Ia front
| and back, while the baud OF trimming passes
| sToUnG the cTOEn Ils My on the right side. and
| eIds IN upright loOPs on the LEFT. or perhaps
1 JGtt ia front, forming = base frnm beneath
which tie feathers spTine. Short tips zut DENT
| lcrR feathers are most used, the long sweeping
| plume Is cOuhned 20 the dFessy Nercuiio bon.
| net, ara even there IL u not permitted ~ inter
| tefe With The CoWPsctnesS Of shape. Sine set
| r used Y Ty spsriu gy by tie min-rs, AMI th.ir
| prediction is that Il viii not last through the
| - sson. The blsck jet mania has reached a
climax, and pretty a. IL l., Is likely SON l. !ose
| tavtT thToUEr it. commences.
NJ Timers comm nj tor genera use black vel
| vet Onnets; tor second best. sud 70 wear With
| voc en- suits felt hats should he ca ,S-u. for
| special costumes the bonnet shouId te m tts of
| the velvet 4 gros srain cf the dress, tor dre-s
a.
the novelty : white trimmings on DARK velvet
| bouuets.
To uarticulsrize: The trimmings for black
| velvet bonuets are jet, ostrich feather Hawers
| aud gros grsin-nO more nimsy tgiiisI slIks .nt
| trimmings are confined 10 blark hats, AMI tbs
| caprice ~ not for the heavy jet ornaments of
last winter, the srrOws, da ggers, ami backlss OF
faceteG jet, but for Jet embroidery on the velvet
or lace crown, jet galloun bindings on Orlms,
some leave OF lace dotted with Jet, fTinges OF let
| and perhaps q single light vibrating ornament
mace OF strung jet beads. Black or cDiored o.
| trichfesther TUches line the inside OF halo
| bTms; another pretty face trimming for Young
ladies black velvet hats is soft irregular puas
| OK blue or rose fsille. The roses most led are
triple bunch, two Of deep lemon color,
with one dark cardinal red rose, or else
| tue colOrs are reversed; there also straight
wresths formed entirely OF crushed roses,
foliage. An siI-blsck bonnet for a stately
/ lady has the velvet crown richly embroidered
With jet beads, an inch-wide binding OF jet g.i-
/ left has jet leaves in 1t. Two ostrich tips with
long fern leaves of jet begin az the point Of the
| brim and fall back on the crown. Price $50.
For a young blonde is black velvet bonnet,
with the brim pointed slightly on the left side,
| and covered with volumnOus irregular pIf-
| ing OF soft light blue fai!le. Velvet loops AMI
| pale blue tips cover the crown. Price SIS.
| other very rich black velvet bOnnetS Danish AL
Jet, and have for face trimmings putf. OF hack
| srOs grain on one side, with scarlet aud vel
low rose cluster on the other; short black ostrich
tips curl upward and back ward from the M A lie
| over the crown. Some very lovely b0nusts OF
black velvet have broad halo brims covered
with tuli ruche OF black, blue, or pink os- rich
feathers, in which a cluster OF tea-rOsss is Get
tar back on the left 81 lie.
| Among felt hats those of brown and gray are
found to be finer than the black ones, and more
desirable every way. The latest felt hats have
| the full feather ruches Just described to cover
| the inside of the wide faring brim. while out-
eide Is a hst-bsnd of grOs grain of the color OF
the felt, some loops, and a long Mercutio plane,
| held by crescent Of mixed nligree silver and
| gilt. These are suitable only tor round, fresh
| Young faces. and they are marked so. For
those more advanced in years are close crowned
| felts with rolled Rabsgss bgims, giving q reg
| ular bonnet shape. Brown is especially stylish
| for such hsts, and handsome models are trim
| med with mixed velvet and grOs grain, wide
| bindings OF velvet, a velvet hat baud loOps OF
| both fabrics, and topaz humming birds, SHOW
ing their beautiful yellow bodies. Birds aud
| cocks feathers are the appropriate ganiture,
| ostrich feathers aud flowers being Reserved for
| velvet bonnets.
Among the coIoreA velvet bonnets the seal
| skin brown, very dark with faint red fish
| uDGe. prevails; yet all dark shades just re-
| moved from black are shown. TIE trim ming
| - Invariably sros grain o. the same shade, with
fiO@eTs in contrast or to match IN color, fancy
| dictates. One OF the new and unique cOmhIna
1 TORS y q velvet OF deepest myrtle green,
| trimmed With lemon-ColOTed ostrich tips ana
| oak leaves with yellow brown scDrns. Yet, for
| vSTietYs sake, just beside this bonnet was
| another III monotone OF blue-grSy velvet, and
for ornament some gray leaves aud grapes aud
| :0rg MercutiO feather OF ghter blue gray
| The seal brown velvet bonn.ts permit many
shades for garnitaTe, and look equally well
| with pale PINK roses, Isabella yellow, or dark
| gTiplina red rcSss; light blue ostrich tips,
| hcsh-lik pink plume snd, finally, the dis in
| ~ ,hed white trimminGs, are used upon them.
| Tbs bring us 20 reception bOnlets. The
1t e FIeDch fancy is TO mske these dres'y at
iaiTs rot Of pale pearl, pink, or azure huss, bat
OF the darkest possible shades Of velvet, and
| even black, and tighten them by white accssSO.
| ries in the way OF white gros grain bows, white
crcre hsse or tulie strings, and white ostrich
1 feathers. Black, ispis snd sapphire blue, seal
| brown, deep dark c~rdinal, myrtle green, AMI
amethyst velvet bonnets are shown with ghits
trimming. model OF sapphire blue velvet,
| with cap crown (pleated low behind like a cur
| taiD) and faring bTim, has a white grOs grain
1 cord on the edge OF the brIm, with Hated bows
and loops of white gros grain tcut from the
l piece around the crown. curled white o..
| tTiCh tip falls over the crown, and there are
| long strings OF white CT &c lisse. \ seal brown
| velvet has scarf Of soft white ribbon around
| the crown, with two high loops in front and
| three behind. Some white roses with faint punk
| t'nges are in each cluster OF loops, and 4 white
| ostrich tip from the front cluster goes backOver
| the crown. These white loops and bows are
very full, and drawn round in what French mil
| liners call Renaissance curves. Black velvet
| bonnets have white loops, feathers, and long
| drspery strings of soft white tuIle, 70 be wound
| around the neck, and also 10 serve for vets
| these are meant Tor dress and carriage bonnets,
| and would look very much out OF place On the
| promenade.
HINTS ABOUT PRESSES.
| Some model dresses from WOrth's show con
| trasts OF color; for instance, q dark smoke gray
| silk is trimmed with cardinal f4cings, 2 white
| silk for evening has pale blue garniture, aud a
1 Il
| OF light blue silk. All have oyerssirts and
| bRsQues, with skirts that merely touch the floor
without sweeping; the basques ars OF fame full
| design, as worth reserves plain round cuiras.es
| fer wooden suits, or else for those historic cos
| tunes that are now worn a. full dress. The
! Clark smoke silk has a deep side pieating on the
| skjrt front, 10 which is added second piesting
| behind, and the hesdng is q wide pan OF
straight silk, with two huted ruiiles en- each side
Of il lined With cardinal red six, which shows
Sc piping on the edges. The graceful over
skirt is an apron front, with bows down the mid
| he and loops and straight ends behind. This
| pointed apron is made OF two bTeadtas Of silk,
with a bias band (piped with redl all around
| them and up the middle OF the front,
| which is held together by three long-lo1ped
cardinal bows The back IL simply two
| straight widths about half yard wide,
| cardinal loops appearing under the pufis. This
| gives the large bOuffaut back no coming back
| To favor, and is the prettiest Over-skirt OF the
| season. The basque has cardinal reYers In the
! seams, and an English collar showing cardinal
fscings in the front points, while inside OF this
| collar is not only box pleated Tuche, but aIso