National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-12-26

and their toilets go pretty u IS WONDER that
men who prefer that sort Of woman don't fall in
love with them. There is something captivating
in the idea Of the finest French dolls, whose
bisq1e or Waxen features are moulded IN minia-
tuEe Of reigning favorttes in other times the En-
press herself and the ladies Of her court. So q
lover who presumed to admire popular beauty
might possess image Of her, exqu1sitelY dressed
and large enough to stand on his visiting table,
Tor 200 francs, decidedly the cheapest, and finally
A good many mortals these days would be pleased
TO see in the miracle reversed and their expensive
idols turn to wax or marble. The change would
mot be great in many instances, but human
skill should be equal to IL.
Inside the doors, hung the whole month with
Christmas greens, there is store OF fabrics to d.
vorce WOman's wit from her purse strings. II
faith is TO be put in the fur OF muskrats or the
thickness Of corn-husks as signs OF heavy win
the thick materials worn will bring us arctic
season before its close. The lighter damask wool
and camel's hair goods are set aside for armure
coatings,
OXFORD CHEvIoTs AND WOOL MATELAssH.
The eoatings are too we'll known for dsscrip-
tion. The Oxford cheViots are thick twllled fan
mel, SOFT and light, in gray or faUn-broWn shades
with faint blue cross bars. Wool matelasse, both
for suits and jackets is more acceptable than the
expensive silk material. The style Of the latter
preferred is large branching designs called tree
matelasse, the stems and twIgs raised on the sur
face like rich cord embroidery, and rich it is,
costing from SO to SIS yard, tWenty-seven inches
wide In contrast to this are pattern suits OF fine
cashmere embroidered by hand with silk, in the
same color, for S26 the full dress. Embroidered
blue cashmere are from S1S to $50. For simple
house wear, winter debeges are liked, thicker
than merino, with firm threads like hne crash
Another excellent house material is the finest
armure with tWiiled and wavy threads. When
made solely for the house, with demi-train, many
folds Of silk, and nice pleatings, these dresses
have an unexpressed preference over silk. with
all the variety Of fabric brought in this season,
merchants say there never were more black cash.
meres called for, and the all black goods woven
in plaids are much liked by those who dress
constantly In black.
THE RUSSIAN WRAP,
q French garment for mld-winter, ia Of brown
or black matelGsse, with long front and deco
back, belt and cape to the waist. bordsred with
fur, the lUose sleeve headed by fur and bOWsef
coSS vii mes r. ponEieT foT more tbS az 1ns
season, especially as It comes with the stamp OF
one of the best foreign houses. The newest form
OF polODaise rs shown in a model of brown r ate
lasSe, single breasted, with one dart, the long
front borcered with knife pleating, held by large
crochet buttons and wrought button holes to the
longer Sides which have finish of double piping.
The back is basque, with fine pleating outlining
the shoulder, side forms and tabs; the polohaise
lengthwise pleatings of brown silk on each side,
held together by q bow. The deep squsre sailor
ishes the neck. The sleeve has a marrow turn
over cuff, closing with two buttons and deep
pleating above. The skirt worn with this polo
Haise has no hOunce, but the back Is laid In wat
teau pleats. This model, wbich suits any mate
rial, has the newest points for poIonaises-the
apron buttOned on the sides, the long sides, the
open back filled with silk pleating the-straight
cuff and deep collar, with standing ruche. The
fresh ideas Tor
HOUSE DRESS
IN one of W orth's designs are the square throat
hHedW with hne sbiTred puts Of silk onwool goods,
or Of satin upon silk the turned down collar bor
dered with puff, and apron In the very finest re-
yersed putting. There Is q good deal OF dress
making to costume now 0-days, the seEmstresses
say. For everything in the smooth bssques and
vatican skirts depends on the excellence OF 1T
and adjustment, while the rows of fine runniLg-
stitch that o n Y the n m hR
AounceE, recall the finish thatwas put on dresssg
in our grandmotAers' days. But these shrrings
in wool goods especially they never look as ntce
the trim pleatinRs, which lose no style. The
newest dresses have the Empress oVerskirt open
in front and trimmed, and held closely together
with large bow while the long back is drswnin
series Of dropping puifs, with silk pufs set be-
tween. This is a favOrite style for the shawl
plaids, which are trimmed with fiat bands Of silk
and ball fringe IN the two shades Of plaid. For
the house the long pointed 'front.' trimmed 10 rep
resent three aprons overlapping each otherFItith
three square tabs, OF graduated length, behind
half yard wide deliberately trimmed and falling
over each other, takes the place Of puffs. Every
thing in fashion tends to the return of.sRpie
skirts, with fiat trimmings.
-sHAwLs,
IRhether dOmestieOr imported. have never been
cheaper. The hRe basket -shawls Of Gernan
T-OTsted, very waEm and light, chosen for house
and invalid shawls are charming, in pureWkfte |
or soft gray, though more serViceable in plain |
hue scarlet center, subdued by dark gray1kor- |
der. These shawls are seven dollars. Light |
serge shaWls, in plain blue gray, are six dol
this season in broad, stripes Of fawn and wood |
gray, warmed Withfeeks Of crimson and yeIlsW. |
The CastigliODe,
THE NEWEST SHAWL OF THE SEASON,
is thick and fur-Iike, finer than the ZImalsysu |
with all its lustre and, sickness. 1t is a rich, |
gTaVe-looking wrap. IN the shades of brown AHd |
silVeT-Rray, with daSk borders, or the peculiar
shading O silver
INDIAGoAsHSEREs
find zery pleasant the reduction Of prices that
has taken place since last fall In their favorIte
shaWIs. The largest merchant house In NeF5
rich goods on the sane basis as other French /
prices, as most shawIS are imported through 7
Paris agencies. A LADY going to buy an India
fetal Eaice, at least 800 per cent profit, but from
the cost Of such things at present it is longer
easy totbink so. India .csshBeres are no longer /
out Of reach Of moderate purses, and cashmereG
very delightful things TO every woman OF
taste. z man Who spent literally on such things
for the ladies Of bis house, eaee asked II shaWls
were notG1ore expensive the hOmeler they are,
and sueh&s very convenient and sincere notion
with many people Indeed, Ibsye known editors
to write prOfanely of eashnepSs "soied and
faded TeltGs handed down from one dirty native
ehieftain e another, which ourtns ladies priced
through q fashionable inflammation. That was all
they knew about It. In spite OF editors and Mr..
Ruskin, there is essential beauty and value in
diamonds, faces and India ,shaWIs The most
ignorant woman is aware Of the attractions of
q yaluabl eamel-hair shawl with us rich deli
cate colorng4 It's hneness Of weaving, its sofGness
and warmth. The finer wool goods are the
warmer they Sre, is a maxim of buyers, aud it
holds good with these shaWls: Then the Indian
solors are unmatched, and though so soft at first
as to seem unfsded to eyes used to high crimsOns
and puppies, aEe almost ebG2Eeless with time,
vale me me harioSay Of ne 9eSsn Crews on one
while in good houses TO have articles eI luxury
which may be Rarded down from mother to
9 aQg hters, gaining value year by year, and with
proper care nearly andestructible.
SURVEY Or THE SHAWL MARKET
ia9SE far from unplsasing, and the prices almost
beIox. credence. The coarse striped wraps cost
ing IS little as els, CT genuine cashmere how
r'age robes, or hangilrs for room and furniture. |
They,Dake quaint, oriental postieres and window
como in soft, strange, Indian shades Of blue,
scarlet, green or black, "A plain eO0C and twill,
each tgO yards wide AID four loag, and arc
chosen tss elegant polonR.ses and eveGtnE wraps,
especially in white. The lowest India shayTls
with hlIse centres are 60 and szaaO is the
seen, q real India shawl Gay be had S0r little
more than q nice Paisley, though people buy
Paisleys allhheir lives who would feel slniully
The tasie,oftfCe shawls deIRRE Is q large sSsOunt
Of BLACK relieved with white EsGil covered b. The
splendid shaNlE, where not q color but was deli
cnte, and true the dark gnoEzd with white ,
branches Ike the light on blades c. trople eayes,
oTeTspread with myriad Stitches OF different 4
color, as thcHgh HeVen with oOlors from all the /
GENE; soft IBdial blue between turquoise and 1 (
azure, Of breadths pink, as II dyed hF the petals
81 damask roses, AAe leading hGe shot with
deans Of gold cnEra,ion aud cream yellow, with
lDe fantastic patterns Of strange filgge ara
1esque and bell. II RsE like studyiRg . paint
nglof MeissOnier's. AL the shades were bloom
ng Ant mellow, and eaea seemed the chuissst one
% 60 with It's neighh0r
One gets the good Of aEeh shawl almOst by 8
ookinE Mt 1t. But for those who are never Gstfs-
led without possessing then therefs delight !
nj surprise in the French sashmeres, which Il | {
Gems a libel to call imitation India. These COPY /
he pattern OF camel hair shaEis; Yes, but one h
Efist copies the painting OF another without ser
fiity, and tie material is quite the same, the b
alhmeTe imported from the East and manufac-
ured BY cunning French looms. So one may
ave q nice little shoulder shawl in blue and
carlet for S. so, and fine-striped square shawl,
be original Of which cost $40 for SIS. copy OF
1000 franc Indian shawl, about $3.50 Of our a
honey, identical in size and, far as ordinary O,
idges could say, in eOlorng, with the rich, SOFT II
nypleish rose bloom and blue was shown for as, M
st what friend paid on principle for a common n
okirg Paisley In red and black. She might he
ave hsd Decca shawl, embroidered in the long
BY hand, for any price between SIS and
20. almost any OF which would be handsomer
an her ugly extravaganza. / never could see %
lie depravity Of popt lace and cashmere com pl
lTsd with pTOsha iAaNls and Asehlin, when ID