Mineral Point tribune. (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1869-1938, 1874-11-12
Hints About Dresses.

vet hounces, each over an eighth of a
yard deep, and head each by a wider
silk flounce that falls over the velvet
ruffie, and is also shirred to form
dropping puff and standing ruffle. To
complete such costumes is a polOnaise
with matelasse front, velvet sleeves, vel
vet basque back, and sashes trimmed
with jet fringe. Another French design
for black silks is that of having five rows
of jet galoon extending down the front
breadths to the tlounce at the foot; two
wide pleats on which bows are set, trim
the sides of the very edge; the back
breadths are pulled above, and held in
place by sash; the flounce has a piped
hem below, two shirred pufts above, and
gets much wider behind. The erect
rutfle at the top of the founces is now
doubled, or rather its edge is sewed in
with the shirring, and thus a puff is
formed. Black silk dresses with the
box-pleated back breadths have on the
front breadths single deep tiounce OF
the smallest knife pleating, headed by a
wide bias band of velvet
Worth's dresses are full of sugges-
tions to experienced eyes. For instance,
on handsome costume of black silk he
has put an oversklrt with deep apron
front, forming sashes behind by folding
double each of the back breadths of
silk, tying them in pulled knot high on
the tournure and trimming their square
ends with two bands of velvet and
series of his favorite loops. The front
of the apron has wide velvet border,
and the original trimming down the
middle is triple box-pleat, very wide,
held down by four cross bands of velvet,
and also finished below with loops.
Trimmings of knife pleatings, shirred
flounces, puffs, and bias bands are seen
in abundance on dressy black silks, yet
there are also house dresses of black
silk made in the simplest manner, with
scarcely any ornament. For instance,
there are basque and single skirts of the
heaviest black silk trimmed with single
bias band of velvet three or four inches
wide placed straight around the skirt
three inches above its edge; pockets of
velvet are set on the side cores, velvet
Medcis collar trims the neck, velvet
piping edges the basque, and the sleeves
have two narrow pleated frills falling
toward the hand, with small velvet cuff
above. This is said to be the favorite
home toilet with Partisan women of po-
sition and refinement.
The trains of evening dresses are in
creased in length, many of them meas
uring two yards, and even more. The
waists are basques both for high and low
corsages, though the pointed and chate-
laine waists are still seen. Long pleated
fan trains are in great favor for full
dress. The bulk of importations for full
dress occasions consists of silk dresses
with trimmings and tabliers of brocaded
gauze; white gauze striped with black
velvet, blue or rose new sleazy gauze that
has a silvery sheen; and many accesso-
ries of tulle, both plain and embroidered
with elaborate floral garniture. There
is also much duchesse lace in new pat
terms resembling the designs of Malines
lace. For trimming the trains are deep
tlounces of gauze, fringed and festooned
by having two lengthwise puffs at inter
walls Silk tlounces are narrow in front,
and become sometimes three fourths of
yard wide behind, and are made up of
clusters of side pleats, often twenty-five
in group, alternating with wider
pleats that have only three in group.
There are also many full, thick ruches of
pinked silks in scallops, in saw tooth
notches, and in leaf-like points. with
much shirring and wide puffs. Gauze
overskirts are triple aprons fringed, or
else deep, irregular aprons, on which are
laid pleated sashes formed of one or two
breadths of silk laid in small fat side
pleats. The middle Of such sash is
laid on the right hip; one end crosses the
apron to the foot of the dress in front,
and is fringed out there, while the other
Grapes the tournure, andis tied in long
looped bow on the left of the back.
Thus arranged is pale blue silk with a
silvery gauze over-skirt and pleated blue
sash; the tlounce is in wide and narrow
pleated groups. Basques are finished
with loops and bows behind, and have in
many cases Pompadour square necks
filled with tulle folds. A sky.blue silk
basque with Pompadour neck, trimmed
with sheer white muslin putfs, folds and
Nalenciennes lace, is very handsome.
Fresh and youthful toilets of white
tarlatan and of muslin are so simply
made that young ladies can make them
at home. The gored demitrained skirt
has three knife-pleatings Tapped, each
six inches deep, and hemmed The close
front breadths have a tablier of
loose, scant pufis held by three or five
lengthwise ribbons of blue or rose gros
grain, or else black velvet, finished With
a rosette below. Three narrow knife
pleatings edge this apron and extend up
the sides to panier puff, which should
be full and long yet slender, and held
back by side sashes of wide ribbon form
ing two long loops and ends. The corset
waist, laced behind, should be fitted
smoothly and round on the hips, and
have pointed neck, low in front and
back, but high on the shoulders, and
trimmed with a Grecian bertha of folds
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