Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1874-11-26
Gentlemen's Fashions.


much longer, pantaloons are large and
straight, without spring at the foot;
vests are invariably of the material OF
the coat; black and very dark gray En-
glish goods are used
The fashionable suit of black for full
dress is a very long swallow-tail coat OF
West of England cloth, rolled very low,
and with fine braid on the edges. The
vest of the same material, is rolled low
to correspond, and also has braid
on the edges. The pantaloons are
of West of England doeskin OF
medium size in the legs. Extre-
mists have braid down the outer seam OF
the pantaloons to match the coat and
vest. Cloth with "imperial" finish-that
is, without luster--is chosen instead OF
| the glossy cloths lately worn. A white
| foldei lawn neck-tie is invariably worn
with this suit.
The semi dress suit for church, visit
ing, driving a.rd the promenade has a
,,ouble- breasted .frock-coat reaching al
m,,st to the knee. This coat is Of fine
EnA fish worsted, usual, either OF BLACK
or bike, in fine diagonal INES, or else
with the new Grape face nsW gwen 10
West OF England goods. The VI. is al
ways of The same material AS the coat
and the fashionable finish Is galoon bin>.N '
ing. The pantaloons may also be Of the
same worsted, but are often of dark gray
English cashmere, or else the light pearl
or drab French cashmere. A second
suit, between those for semi-dress and
the regular business suit, has double
breasted cut-away coat and double
breasted vest, with pantaloons of striped
English cashmere.
Business suits have coat, vest and pant
aloons alike, made of English goods in
irregular plaids and broken checks.
Black with white, and mixed colors, such
as black, gray and few threads Of dull
red, are most used. The Goa: may be
either the double breasted Newmarket
coat with flaps at the waist and binding
of satin braid, or else long single
breasted coat buttoned high or perhaps
to button only two buttons, then cut
away. Double-breasted reefing sacks
made of dark Scotch mixtures, and cut
much longer than those of two years ago,
are also worn with business suits and tor
travelling.
Ovcrcoats are single breasted, fly
front sacks shaped TO the figure and long
enough to reach below the knee. The
material for them is Elysian fur beaver,
and the prevailing colors are blue and
black. Surtouts are also worn, made
very long and of fur beaver. The loose
overcoat for opera wear is of the lnver-
ness shape, with cape in front. The
long Ulster overcoat made of dark gray
mixtures, will be worn for travelling
Shirt fronts are of plain double or
triple linen for general wear; for full
dress two light lines of embroidery are
added, or else there are medallions
around the studs. Young gentlemen
have tiny squares of hem-stitching and
needle-work to cover an inch-wide field
down the middle of the bosom. The
fashionable standing collar called the
Garrick, is of high English shape, with
the points in front rolled over but not
tlattened. Turned down collars have an
open space in front and points of differ.
ent length. The new Challenger cuff,
made of four thicknesses of linen, Is very
wide, and is cut off in points TO match
the Garrick collar
Made-up neck-ties or scarfs are varia-
tions of the sailor scarf made In rich
repped silks, or else with satin face
japanese figures dashes or dots of red,
white, or blue, and sometimes two colors
of dots, are used. The Highland scarf
has q folded wrinkled strap with long
ends, and costs 81. The Elkhorn has a
smooth, fat knot, curved at the top and
bottom. This Is handsomely made of
seal brown, navy blue, or rich black silks,
with figures and without. The fiat folded
Wellington scarf is broad but short, and
exposes more Of the shirt-bosom than
formerly. Folded white lawn ties for
full dress are nearly an inch broad, and
are wrought lightly with silk in each
pointed end.
The fashionable black dress hat is
lower in the crown than that of last sea
SON. 1t is six and half inches high, Of
the yeoman bell shape, with large top.
The brim is wide on the sides, with round
English curl, moderately curved and
widely bound Price 50. Semidress
hats are of black or brown felt, with low
round crowns; the brims are wide on
the sides, and curled in English style;
price So. Square.crowned felts are worn
of various heights, also round crowns
Broad hat-bands are out Of style. Most
charming Of all are soft felt hats-far
finer than those worn by ladies-with
soft crushable brim with the natural
edge, not bound, and by way of orna-
ment merely double elk cord passed
around the crown and knotted; price s..
Seal-skiD caps have double bands, with
high, large, round tops. The double
band is three inches deep, and rolled
closely against the lining. This Is the
newest shape, and costs $50. Some
crowns are pointed, and some are half
round. Others again, for $18, have high
round crowns without bands. The fine
Shetland seal fur Is chosen for these
caps, and they sometimes cost as high as
$25 Fur-seal collars for gentleman have
pointed fronts Gauntiets and half
gauntlets OF seal are shown for mid
winter The cap and gloves form set
for $50. with collar added the price Is
$75 or $50 for the best qualities.
Rich twilled India silks OF genuine
Oriental designs are being made up in
short jackets for the house, smoking, etc,
also as long dressing robes. They have
black, blue, or crimson grounds with
gold figures, and trimming of quilted
silk. They will make appropriate gifts
for the holidays. Long robes OF plain
cashmere have deep borders OF quilted
silk Of contrasting color, and cost $50.
Boots are almost entirely out Of use.
Gentlemen wear buttoned CATERS, with