National Republican., 1874-06-01

aeep Spanish founce that b on TIE back
bresdths only. This founce is finished top and
bottom with side-pirated friii and three siml-
lar frills are placed scross the front breadth.
The neck has q standing pleated rufis, and
sometimes there are two ruflss edging the
neck and wrists Of the coatsleeyes. The belt
Is made of'the straight calico, lined, bound on
each edge and fastened behind by = small bow.
From the right side hangs swinging pocket
a Ia ehatelains, made Of the calico IN oblong
shape, or In q fat pentagon, suspended by
hemmed bands from the belt. The front Il
buttoned It's whole length, or else fastened BY
bows made Of hemmed strings, tied when the
dress is put on, but united for the lsundress-
wHrTB WRAPPERS.
I White suits of pique and Victoria lawn will
not be as much worn as In former Junes; pique
Is too warm, and the wiry lawns crush too
easily. Moreover there began last year re-
action in favor Of darker hues, and ladies at
the summer resorts were dressed In winter
colors. There is, however, revived fancy for
| the old crossbarred muslins In fine nainsook
and soh null for morning wrappers. These
are made with the Gabrielle fronts just de-
scribed, while the back is in Watteau folds, or
1
basque, and the back of the skirt Is then
sewed on underneath. The trimming is plain
nainsook frills, needle-worked on each edge,
and either gathered or pleated; If embroidery
is chosen, 1t is usually the open English work.
The ribbon bows and sashes worn. with these
snowy gowns are usually of dark, stylish color,
such as violet, navy blue, prune, deep poneeau,
or else Of black velvet. The chatelaine bag to
match the ribbon is inevitable. : Charming lit
tie caps of muslin are worn with these robes
/ tn breakfast; they have. Charlotte Corday
crowns, with lace frills, knots of violet or rose
ribbon and elegantine and violet clusters, or
the meress tip of an ostrich feather.
ENGLISH RIDING HABITS.
Another thing that out-oftown girls suould
know in time for summer riding parties Is how
the English riding habits took in Central park.
They are safer aud more comfortable than the
long -gored skirts American equestriennes wear,
though cannot say much for theirgra They
are cut out of wide cloth with only two seams,
one on each side, and they have a projecting
part that fits over the right knee where IL is
thrown across the pommel. The effect of this
is to make the bottom of the skirt hang evenly
all around. The waist is short in front with
square lat-pleated postillion back. 1t is but
toned up close to the throat and has tight
sleeves. Black habits are preferred by city
riders and are worn with plain linen collar
and white muslin necktie. The hat is stove
pipe beaver with black net mask veil. The
hair Is combed up from the neck, braided high
on top of the head, and the knot is hidden in
the hat; flowing curls and braids may be pic
turesque but do not look well when the horse
moves rapidly; the neat, compact colffure just
described is in far better taste. As pctticoats
creep up uncomfortably in the saddle and make
the rider look very clumsy ladies here have
adopted the trowsers that English women wear
on horseback. They are made like those worn
| by men, are partly lined with Chsmois leather
and are strapped under the boot. Ladies who
object to wearing trowsers have closed Turkish
drawers of muslin, faced below with cloth like
the habit.
LINEN SUITS.
Graz, undressed linen finds greater favor for
wear than the long-worn buff or the newer
navy blue. This is made into very simple
jackets, partly fitted to the figure, and deep,
| round apron oyerskirts. The trimming is Q
bias band, piped with the same or with white,
blue or brown. The skirt of walking length
has two pleated ruffiss, Tped to match the
bands. There are also suits with long polo
naises, single breasted and beIted.
French dressmakers import white linen
suits, striped with green or black in pencil lines.
These are charming materials that cannot be
purchased here, and imported wash dresses
are always aboninatiops, as they are never
neatly sewed, and are so overlsden with incon-
gruous trimming that they cannot be ''done
up" and they have none Of the beauty of SIM
plicity, which is their chiefest beauty.
ODDS AND ENDS.
As the season advances basques, Jackets and
sacques, with very long overskirts, find greater
favor than polonaises, especially with young
ladies. This is true of house and street suits
alike. All sacques and basques are larger than
those of last season. The postillIon pleating
in the back of basques is being revived, but
is always pressed fatty, instead Of standing out
full, as formerly. The fancy for having sleeves
different from the basque Is being carried to
the greatest extreme. Remember that the
sleeves and lower skirt are made Of one piece,
and the basque and overskirt of another. The
neck is dressed as elaborately as during the
winter. The caprice at this writing though it
cannot LASTS to have no white visible on the
neck when on the street, but to cover up the
neck with guipure lace scarf, which is three
yards long, and far warmer than any one
would suppose who has not tried it.
do not mean to say, however, that polonaises
are obsolete, or even obsolescent. They have
had such long and useful career that cease
to prophesy about them, and should be sorry
to see the last of them. At present they are
made with the Marguerite back, that fits
smoothly over the tournure, or else with deep
peplum behind, and a graceful bosom drapery
quite like fichu. They are, however, shorn
Of their exaggerated pockets and ssshes that
once dishgured them. L. .. -
! The newest chatelaine bags and belts are
formed entirely Of jet beads, strung together,
\ and cost SEQ.
Embroidery of Jet on silk dresses is dons fn
the dressmaking houses. Ladies' Of high ton
eschew all Jet passemeuteres and other trim
mings sold by the yard. Crownless bonnets
are the latest novelty. They are merely dia-
dem of chip or lace, with a wreath Of flowers
laid around the head and branches across the
top.
Coiffures threaten to advance still higher as
the warm weather increases. The new bonnets
require towers of puffs and light feaShery curls
to fill up the open space.
Miss KNIcKERBooKER.
LETTERS FROM THE PEOPLE.
EXCITEMENT AT FALLS CHURCH OVER THE PROS
PEcTIvE ESTABLISHMENT OF DRrNKING
SALOON THERE.
FALLS CHURCH, May Is, 1874.
TO the Editor Of The National Republican
SIR: Mr.. John D. Brush, q pretty nearly
played out merchant in this place, turned his
wits to work out, 1t would appear, more ap-
precisble condition of his sickly eIchequer BY
renting . portion of his store building to one
Amos Fox, of Fairfax Courthouse, for the pur-
poses Of a grocery. This he did, according
to reports, despite condition placed in the first
instance in the contract for bis store lot and af
terwards incorporated in his deed, that no liquor
should ever be sold on the premises. The facts
spread over the community like wildare, and
many of the citizens became excited, indignant
and determined to do something, If pssible, TO
y,ravant tha onaninu of the dram sh0n The