The Cecil Whig. [volume] (Elkton, Md.) 1841-current, 1874-11-07
!mWht EARN.
THE APPLE ORCHARD.

THE APPLE ORCHARD.
G. F. Newton, of Millersburg, Ohio,
furnishes the Germantown TELEGRAPH
the following on orchards:
Having set out six apple orchards,
all of them on different soils and loca-
tions, although in the same neighbor-
hood, and with over thirty-fve years
experience in fruit-growing, | trust |
shall be able to give some instruction
that will be beneficial to the inexperi-
enced fruit-grower.
Judging from the location of site and
management of the orchard, am led
to the conclusion that but few farmers
appreciate its Importance. 1t is too
frequently the practice to select piece
of land for the orchard that cannot be
cultivated with the plow Without any
preparation of the land, except the dig
ging of the holes, it is planted in fruit
trees, which receive no cultivation what
ever and but little care. The trees
soon grow sickly and many of them
die. Others cultivate the land every
year after the trees are planted, adding
yearly large quantities of manure to
the land. Their trees make too rapid
growths-frequently the bark sap will
burst at the ground and the trees live
to bear but few years hence with
such persons the orchard is failure.
With good selection of the site, and
the proper cultivation and management
of the trees, no part of the farm, with
the same amount of capital invested
and labor bestowed, yields so remuner-
alive crops as the orchard
LOCATION OF SITE.
If possible the site should be an ele
waited one, and the land rich and dry.
A calcareous clay usually produces the
best apples This, however, is not al
ways the case, as some varieties DO
best on a rich, sandy loan. The Rome
Beauty is noted for its peculiar adapta-
ton to warm gravelly soil. In a billy
country, north or northeast slope is
preferable to any other location. In all
cases select so that the trees will be
protected from the western Winds
This may be done by hill, or where a
belt of timber is to be left standing.
Should there be no hill or woodland
on the west side of the orchard site,
plant two or three rows of forest or
evergreen trees close together on the
side of it to break off the wind If
row of evergreen trees is planted on
the east side to shade the trees when
in blossom from the bright morning
sun, they will also prove beneficial.
Do not be discouraged because it takes
a little extra work and expense plant
ing the outside trees 1t will pay you
well in after years for the trouble and
expense of planting them.
PREPARATION OF THE LAND
If the land is spouty it should be
thoroughly underdrained before the trees
are planted. When undertaking be-
comes necessary the drains should be
laid at least three feet below the surface
Fruit trees may grow but they never
do well on wet or sour soil. Plow
the land in the Fall of the year and as
deep as possible 1t cannot be plowed
too deep. The blowing should be done
in lands of proper distances for the
rows, so that the trees may be on the
elevated land where the burrows come
together in backing up. This leaves
low place in the centre between the
rows of trees to draw off the water
from their roots. AS soon as the land
is broken up run crop-furrows with the
pillow at right angles with the first plow-
Ing, and at proper distances apart for
the rows of trees. 1t is necessary that
the rows be straight for convenience in
the after cultivation. Clean out the
holes for the trees soon after the plow-
ing is done, making them about two
feet square and one foot deep. When
the holes for the trees are dug in the
Fall, tire rain and frosts of Winter
soften the ground at the bottom and
sides Of the hole, which is advantageous
to the growth Of the tree.
PURcHAsING AND PLANTING THE TREES
Uriess the soil is very dry and the
site favorable one, it is better to plant
trees in the Spring than the Fall season
of the year. | have found it more con-
venient and advantageous to purchase
the trees in the Fall If this be done,
select an elevated piece of ground in
the garden or elsewhere that is dry and
where the trees will be secure from de-
struction by mice or stock AS soon as
the trees are received, with a sharp
knife cut off all diseased and broken
roots and bury the trees in trenches
dug sufficiently deep that the roots may
be below the action of the frost. By
Spring the cut roots will lie nearly heal
ed over and be ready for throwing out
new ones Immediately after planting.
When trees are thus purchased and
kept they may be set out very early in
the Spring, before the rush of work
comes on. Another very important adj
vantage gained by the purchase of trees
in the Fall and burying them is, they
may he taken from the trenches few
at time, and set out in the orchard
without injury to the roots by the cold
winds. Early planting of deciduous
trees is preferable to late, as they get
a start before the hot dry weather of
June sets in. When ready for plant
ing fill up the holes, if too deep, with
rich surface mould, so that the tree,
when planted, will stand about two
inches deeper in the ground than when
growing in the nursery Trees seldom
do well when planted too deep In set
ting the tree the heaviest portion of the
top and branches should front towards
the south and west, leaning the top
little in that direction By so doing
you shade the body of the tree while
young from the bright sun in Winter.
Spread out the roots and fill in about
them with the hand the rich surface
mould, occasionally shaking the tree
little and drawing it upward. This
places the roots in their original position.
Press down the earth gently with the
foot, leaving a basin or hollow around