, 1874-08-23

| right hand he bears great uace, ending iu 4
bayonet, and his left rests upon his sword.
When you have turned your back upon him,
! crossed the moat, and come ont into the street,
you have passed from the Middle Age to tho
Nineteenth Century. At tins po,ntin your sight
seelng allow yourself to be persuaded 70 repair
LITTLE RESTAURANT
in the neighborhood, whose chief claim to your
notice is, that Elizabeth lunched there when ehe
went from the Tower to her coronation. lii
tie printed account Of this will be put by your
pate and, If vou arc wise, you will not discredit
any OF its statements from anything you NAV
have read in Hume. These little traditions add
subtle charm to various localities, and are
worth al the trouble required to preserve them.
tou will, OF course, order chop, and yol will
SEQ opposite you little brick oven in the wall,
on whose fiery Goals the waiter will lay your
meat, and await your signal to remove it at the
very nitching moment of perfection. He will
also brlng you bread, q pitcher Of foarning a1e,
aud q gooseperry-tart, and, If you are not satis-
lied with that, you may be quite that Her
Majesty OF happy memory was. The writer il
constrained to declare that no repast ever seeu1
to restore tho mental and bodily equilibrium af-
ter the fatigue involved in = detailed uvestiga-
ton Of the Tower. So fortified, perhaps you
will so Oh to
IT. rAUL's.
After view Of the Duomo OF Florence and
st. Peters, st. raui's docs not not justify to
the tourist the impression it makes on most
Londoners. It lacks the beauty OF the first and
the grandeur OF the second, md it has the bar
mon'ons proportions of neither, while it sug-
gcsts them both. 1t ls imposing chiefly from its
size, and it's vastuesB strikes one more aud mole
with repeated visits. As Pantheon it is q fail
t1re. The great to1nbs beneath languish in neg
lect and gloom Cropping through the dust Que
comes upon white slrcophagus, and. STOPPING
down. one can docinher, in gilt letters on its
side, the name OF ''Nelso1,.' There is bit OF
the old Pagan superstition as to burial left in all
of us, and 1t is lard to believe that he who OK
'nlted in the free. uind-swept main can be con-
tent while Ills mortal remains rest III 30 dreary
place. Opposite, there is q gloomy chamber
couaecrated to
THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON.
In the centre is the cstafalque on which he
was borne to the grave, and-inconceirable
faucyi-tle horses which drew it. They arc
preserved exactly as they appeared on that dis
tant day,-the black plumcs htili noddiny about
their cary, the rich trapplpgs and funeral Grape
still upon them. There IS sort Of ' Miss uav
sham" suggestion about the modv 6t1eame1B
and whitening ~reaths, which produces ef
feet at once comic and relulslve. While we
stood there among the soulbre shadows, We
thought OF Weslington's great antagonist lying
under tile high dotuo Of the Invalides in his
porplyry sarcophagus, which rosts on sun Of
marble mosaic whoss rays are his victories,-
Lodi, Marengo, ,Anster]itz,-Whie over all pourB
the deep golden light from the high altar: and
We thought that iii the tomb tho 'anquisled
was more enviable than the Victor.
The most e1alted idea Of St. Pauls Is to bo
obtained from the ascent Of the Dome. It is,
however, far more fatiguing than that OF Milan
Cathedral OF Notr3 Dame, aud ought not to bo
atteupted bS any bus the most vigorous tourists
Those who have read Brrneeschls account Of
how be built the Dome CT FloTsuce will hlve
found it hard to understand what he says Of an
inner and outer dome. Blu; here the secret is
told, for you 80 in between tho two, and bee the
great beams and stone like the rough seAn1s OF a
rl1l~clehlon turned i'll upon each other, leaving
fair upper and under surface. More than half
way up you come oat upon the roof, and what
you see is worth all your pains. Below you lie
the clouds, floating on great sea OF fog, from
which the spires, md domes, aud palaces Of
London, and tue tall shipping, OF the 1ver, npift
themselves. Sometimes it rains do 9n there among
the clouds. w!lslo tho sky keeps it's dull-gray
above you; sometimes the sun bursts out sud
denly and throws golden glory over the rolling
mists. It is sight to be remembered whole
lifetime.
Returning from the ascent Of the Cathedral,
which the traveller may reck OIL upon as the most
evhaustlng effort he will be called upon to make
in the great Metropolis the collector Of fare in the
omnibus will perhaps tell him that his best place
for leaving the vehicle is i: the Elephant and
Castle." Tins will call his attention to
THE CURIOUS COMBINATIONS
III tne names OF Tho old-Ia9lOned INNS. OF Tnlcn
a large number still maintain their ground sue
ccesfny against tho new hotcA. It does not
take long to puzzle out the connection Of the
Two parts OF the compound name jnst quoted If
one has over scon O Sc: OF India chcsamen with
the castles borne on the backs of elephants F; but
what possible association Of ideas ever brought
into conjunction 1.-The Pig and Whistle" f." = The
Dog aui RAM" 'tIho Cat and Snufrcrs," and
1.-The Bear aud Sur" Pail names Of popular
public hpuses. Doubtless there 1s. in each 1n~
zt+
and l}js Cat order, which WAS once well known,
but which has now faded out OF common recoi-
lection. and left ouy these comicaliticA behind.
These old inns not the least attractive places
in London, particularly If you caro- to obtain q
kecner appreciation of q good deal in Dickens,
Charles Lamb, and even the old Spectator aud
A1les Bur,ev. And. if one Of the charms of
travel be the getting out of old grooves into new
experiences aud sensations, the tours, will al
ways prefer these, and the shabby little chop
and coffee ho1ses, TO the new ],ot"l dinltsg-roomB
and etereotyped Restaurants. There il, for in-
stance,
LITTLE Cnop-NOUsE
only three minutes walk from the fashionable
Of Regent Street. It has enc or
tvo roo.ns, perfectly clean. bat n little sombro
which contributes IN old bookcase Of worn
novels Of half-a-celltuTy n,o. 1Du arc served
by comely English girl, aad here you can OBJ
tain chop OF the finest mutton, admirably
cooked, cup Of excellent tea or glass Of ale.
with bread aud perhaps n vegetable, TO. shl1l-
ing, or abont % cents Of our money. Tho veg
ctablo docs not amount to much. It ia generally
- q vegetable marrow and readers Of Dickens
will not need to 10 toll what satisfaction
it is tn come upon this hitherto mysterious c1i
BILE, which figures 80 Often in the pages of Nch-
olas NicHfeby. |: tastes md looks like watery
s1uaRh, without seeds or flavor. But the otter
glal,lls are Of tho best quality, especially the tea,
which il served in old blue china figured with