New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-08-29
THE FASHIONS.
ELLIE LAST MODES OF SUMMER.

.-rs-FCCENTRTCITIES OF FASHioN-NFW FAB
,cs AND Observation-Disclosures DREssEs-TuE
NV BAsQUE-ToIIET ACCESSORIES.
,,;asummer fashions are exquisitely pastoral.
@ dainty simplicity in transparent muslins and
q, gray mouse color, and high-crOwned fat hats
, ~. little bunch OF hedge flowers or wild BIRDS
nerched saucy just over tie ear; and the muslins
w. such n curious crape-hke crinke that one looks on
no. Jewels much, while knowing talk III this
SUI 7, pure cold water, TO which added the merest
cold coffee barely sufficient TO give IT the faint
h tint so that II shall not be white, wash the
,,n dress without soap or starch; twist the dress
- rome "a closely as possible; this rope must then
n,yined around clothes-line like vine and there
-, 90 arv Thoroughly; taken down. this slender rope
10 very carefully untwrned and shaken ont in the
ass ot It's transparent beauty, and II the operation
",o,med successfully, the faint yeowness and
.l causes the graceful dress TO look exactly like
80 and thus exceedingly ystiiy inqusitive people
- re mol I'm the secret. Husbands and fathers there
80 who cast charmed gances at the simplicity OF white
sosses and saw It's the economy OF the thing don't
r rpowi" But the beauty OF the thing blinds their
vos don't you see And IT comes TO pass that the
-, mills and the fine linens aud delicate organizes
- trimmed with draperes of rich and costly lace,
IN beneath CLEANS tint OF violet blue. or 1t may
n, amber as faint, pale Winry sunsets tinge bank OF
now The highest of white organize Is trimmed WIN
me auae Of rufes, aud between the rules are placed
a. che most bewildering cascades OF SOFT yell
loNk1sh
I'm too sudden falls by Vatican bows of twled silk in
ale shadcwy coors. Then again there are simple
oneh dresses OF this deceptive made OF sllyery
gray tissue stuff, the rufics and reverse and tram
., which are faced with hazy amber just
n ont AT the edges Of the soft piles Of gray. The
hall dresses worn this Summer to be repeated aRain
during the coming season. like nothing so mueh as
sheneys dissolved opal" with the pale pink OF the
conehshel melting into a soft blue, shading into the
taintest green and amber and dazzling snows-a nost'
ing sea Of SILK tue, and muslin. and through u all
diamonds rubies sapphires, and emeralds break Into
glitterlug fragments.
grea, deal of blue and sea-foam green is worn tns
season both extremely becoming to all far beauties
Also pisasche and this makes Drauette as hideous as
she is captivating in amber; but the coming DlacK DUO
and deem Iudenne reds and glowing tnts OF ruby VIII
.atisfy nrupete bellies The shop windows are still
hung with exquisite fabrics airy and fine as Ttania
rohes dainty as fern sea-weed; but here ana
there flashes like brilliant bit Of coloIing in an artists
picture a gorgeous wing Of some tropical pira,
knot of scarlet ribbon. and bunch OF crim-
son roses half hidden in gray green MOSES
vine of Autumn leaves with hectic nush'
and brown notified spots, aud festoons OF gay
Scotch tartans Of various clans, all going TO show that
Summer is dying like the dolphin in gorgeous colors
Among the latest Partisan eccentrictes OF fashlon Is
the art Of manufacturing dead flowers Tor mourning
VICAR white rose had spots OF decay its heart,
There are dead leaves, dropping wted violets, and
panses fading with the canker spots OF decay and pu
pie and black heliotrope FOR those whose grief not
too deep for consolation and lovely sprays OF dying
roses the little buds all puffy and cobwebby and dead
nesting in russell dead with strings the c9oI
OF angbtngt gales ChW Odd as this may De, yet aIter
one becomes reconced to the dea there is more OF ten
DER sentiment IN the memory of the dead In these
Dropping emblems Of the passing away OF life, than II
stf nofs OF crane aud starched white folds hat sc
trimmed requires only mOdicum OF grief and the least
dash OF pensvenes for every degree and modIhcauon
OF sadness combined with good TASTE and II IS certainly
comforting for whose hearts are not aheced Dy
the trappugs and of 10 know that the becoming
is made study. Tantazlng rumOrs fill the air OF wha
the opening days OF next month VIII nave 10 oner
that flowers will reign 10 the exclusion Of feathers and
fantastic shapes and designs will be outlined on the
velvet Of bonnets, with spanges OF blue Steel ano
closely sprnkled with beads of the same STYLE Cooreo
glass oeads first made their appearance here In EN-
broidery on silk and velvet jackets and now they VII
be largely used on velvet and silk bonnets-blue on
bonnet OF the color in fine traceres OF handicraft
green upon green and either color upon black. The
bonne vevets are very dark and rich in the low warm
shades of wine, black blue, and stees. browns olives
and green's each nearly black, so dark are they WIN
velvet satin be largely ntermixed, and scars OF
douhlc-facei ribbon. Each season brings the rumoi
that bopnets are 10 be certainly larger and the frames
imported and an early arrival OF bonnets gives con-
vipcing proof OF the truth of the assertions but from
some mysterious cause, the bonnet question is fairly
settled the dminuendo process goes on again. ana sans
strings sans streamers sans substance, the bonnet an
alry tribe of beauty, appeals once more before u.s.
An article published in Paris in 1919 very urgently rec
commended 10 the reader conversation with ladies TO
praise their favorte coOrs naming those Of the day
e,apa,td erprqnt aud puce erdnod II very difficult
70 account for the sudden universal favor which
color or shade IS apt find. For years color or a
texture may have been urged upon the public without
being so much as noticed all at once fashion con-
oeives desire for the thing hitherto unDoticed or
despised and buys at enormous prices what as "un-
salabe" has long considered almost worthless.
Almost each month brings us new and beautiful
shade whose adoption is by means impeded by the
certainty Of its short-lyed durability Does peach
taste because eatt in minute or two
Al present a bonnet is not a bonnet. Gradually 1t
BEGAN to dminsh-frst the Sides then the back, and
during the present the top departed. yet,
dainty and gauzy the pretty trnes we hope this
Winter will see a revival Of the bonnet proper. Our
climate cannot very well compare with that of Paris.
nor are women successful in dressing up TO the
horal head gear, in harm nzng cloak mantle, shawl
dress whatever may be- TO the pitch Of the hair
the French. These be grave considerations STILL 80
charming are fashions that when fashion mag
Rzines Of 1874 disnterred by a curious twentieth
century writer. he Will find therein legacy designs
worthy ofus
As the season wears on, a fine, nearly diaphanous
fabric called byzantine, makes its appearance for
morning aud Afternoon dresses; II hat resembles
hne black barege and especially adapted for ladies
mourning. The trimmings are Of the same, pipei and
bound with lustrous black silk but 1t is impossible to
associate woolens with this texture with batstes
grenadines Mexcaines for ell are made up with
thick waist Innings OF silk cotton twilled material
III fact get through the almost tropical heat Of our
summers clad as comfortably about neck and arms
as If defyng Winters blasts and the fashion
OF heavy velvet skirts while suitable perhaps
Tor France is absurd here and uncomfortable
70 the wearer though she would confess L. az 10