The Democratic advocate. [volume] (Westminster, Md.) 1865-1972, 1874-02-21

II
between Tung Chow and Pekin, Is, to me
one of the curiosities Of China. II is the
most important road Of the kind in the
empire, connecting, as it does, the head oil
navigation on tho Peiho and the imperial
city. Asitpasses through comparatively
fiat region it would be literally impossible
during the rainy season were it not paved
with stone. This work of paving was
done in the more Furnishing days of China,
IN very substantial manner; thick slabs
of hewn stone being used, from three to
six feet long. In process of time the ends
OF these stones have been pressed apart or
worn away, so that now what was once
worthy to be called an imperial highway
is only place for bruising travellers
bones, and worrying the lives out of the
poor animals which are obliged to draw
burdens over it. II is one of the many
evidences which meet the eye of the trav-
eller, Of the poverty and want of public
spirit of the present Chinese Government.
The impressions produced by Pekin on
the mind of a visitor are of very conflict
ing character. The massive and extensive
walls, the unusually large and imposing
watch-towers which surmount them, the
wide streets and the hustle of loaded carts
aud cabs, official retinues, together with
the promiscuous throng on foot, are what
we might expect to see in the capital of
400, 100000 These, however, are not
more impressive than the filth, dilapidation
and deterioration which, with few excep-
tons, are everywhere met with. The ex-
halations from the filthy street which we
first entered were such that my lungs al
most refused, for time, to breathe. l
found, afterward, that some of the streets
Of the city are much better, while some
are even worse. During the cold weather
the air, of course, is comparatively pure !;
and Pekin, Notwithstanding its want of
cleanliness, is regarded as one of the
healthiest places in China. Most of the
foreign residents escape from the city dur
ing the summer months, and find pleas
ant retreat, with pure air, in the temples
among the adjacent hills.
Among the most pleasing effects of a
visit to Pekin is the impression produced
that, notwithstanding the slowness of the
Chinese to receive new ideas, real progress
is being made. Leading officials are prof
itting by their intercourse with the repre-
sentatives of foreign powers and are acquir-
ing confidence in and respect for them.
The right of missionaries to live in
China, which was questioned few years
ago seems now to be conceded, and their
permanent residence in Pekin virtually
settles the question for the whole empire.
A comparatively large force of missionaries
is already established there, chapels are
built all over the city, and missionary work
of all kinds is carried on openly,
Among the principal places of interest
in and about Pekin is the large Bell Mon
astery, about three miles N. w. of the city.
The bell in the temple was cast in the reign
of Yuong-lo, the third emperor of the Ming
dynasty, and is one Of FIVE east at that
time Of about the same size. This bell,
together with the yoke by which it hangs
on a massive framework of timber, is about
30 feet in height, IL in diameter at the
bottom, and about 8 inches thick, and is
computed to weigh 120, 900 pounds. The
whole inner and outer surfaces are covered
with inscriptions in the Chinese character,
from Buddhist sacred books These in
scriptions are done in the casting, the
characters are beautifully cut, and l could
not detect flaw or defect in the whole
bell. Its tone is remarkably deep and
mellow. The priest in attendance in
formed us that it was never struck with
the large hammer except when the En-
peror visits the temple to pray for rain. l
have learned since that the presentation Of
a sufficient sum of money is as effective as
the presence of the Emperor TO bring out
the large wooden hammer, and call forth
the rich tones Of the monster bell. also
visited the Tia Hwang-she, large Budd-
hist Monastery, occupied by intelligent
looking Mongol priests. 1t occupies an
area which l should judge contains at least
ten acres and includes many stately and
expensive buildings. The yards and courts
are filed with large old trees, among which
the cypress was prominent. The buildings
are constructed with immense pillars of
wood and rooted with beautiful blue por-
celain tiles. One Of the largest temples Is
$50 feet square and about 100 high. They
are all much in need Of repairs and paint,
and, like everything else in and about the
city, show decided evidences of decay.
There is in connection with this temple a
large tower built Of white marble, present.
ing in relief representation Of the history
of Buddha from his birth to his defca.
ton.
In another temple inside the city we
were shown colossal standing image of
Buddha, 40 feet high and about 30 feet
broad from elbow to elbow. A high
building covers this image and visitors
may ascend to the top Of it by stairs, and
thus get variety of views of the great
coming Buddha." The different stories
of the building are occupied by variety
of smaller idols, which heighten the con-
ccption Of the size of the great image by
contrast The priest In attendance did