New-York tribune., 1874-10-24
THE FASHIONS.
DRESS REFORM.

\ ~ -
DRESS REFORM.
A REVIVAL OF SHORT sKIRTs-TwO DISTINCT STYLES
FOR STREET AND HoME-BAIL DRESSES BY GAS
IIGHT-NEw JEWELS AND CAMEos-Ho DE
CREASE IN ExTRAvAGANT STYLES OF DRESS
NEw FRENCH AND ENGLISH FABRICs-REDUCED
PRICES.
RumOrs gain upOn us of impending revolu-
tions-bints world will soon witness the throes
Of an antfashiOn ana opgdress society or congress
The anii-fashion movement ~ simply one OF those
spasmodic phe which harmless as Summer
lightning The short-dress movement begins to look
serious as it is sensible, and Will be approved ey all
sensible women. In France there are no dragging
skirts. nc arathemas Tie women wear their short
skirts with an exquisite, airy, and dainty grace, con-
scious Of The purity thereof knowing that there Is
nothing TO condemn IN the display OF the dehea'e
insicp All pedestrians. both men ana wOmen
are therefore amiable. To this Americans are
gradually arriving, and she who slowly prom
enades a crowded thOroughfare with trained SKIRTS
will become as notorious was the woman who per-
sisted chignon nOop after both had ceased 10 DC
fashionable. Cleanliness propriey, and CHRISTIAN
like regard for the emotions Of others, should reOel
against the trained street dress Fashion, however
arranges OF this sort quietly firmly and surely
as Autumn cousgns the leaves one Ivy one to the dust
and to wear a trained dress iu the street. with one
the fat close apron Joan dare COSTUME or any OF inc
late striking changes IN dress, VIII make WOan iooA
"A bold as she is bizarre.
AT a daylight exposition, a gaslight view gwen OF
ball dresses airyliSe as 1t was glimpse OF
land where ewing machines aud earthly rlgers were
unknown Robes OF the daintiest colOrs with superb
sweep of train adorned the lay fgupes in continuous
array OF harmonious cOOrs, toned down Dy ialls OF
richest point lace gmmer Of silken embroidery ana
ffnges and illumined by the purple bloom OF yioets
and blush Of roses The hadowy c0Ors by preventing
too violent contrasts are becoming TO every s'ye o'
beauty; for example. silk OF pale straw color massed
with fat knife paitings had clOudlike overskirt OF
erspe sse its folds caught here and there by
garands of darky tinted Autumn leaves set with deep
red Cardinal roses. Another was OF heavy white gros
grain combined with ruby velvet and falls OF creamy
pont lace faint tint OF siivery lavender with volum-
inous train had taber OF brocade Of the same shade
and behind these nermixed hounces OF Jdie anu
Damascus gauze puings and ruches caught here ana
there by sprays OF white ac the deeoHe6 waist anu
small basque masses OF fdaIe and falls OF white
Spanish blonde and sprays of lilac. Charming dresses
OF pale blue and of delicate flesh color we're ornamented
with silk knife-plaitings and Hsse combined An
amber. failte was draped in cloud OF
black Chant lace caught in graceful festoons at cor
sage shoulders on the Sides and trailing Win the
sashes with clusters Of scarlet geraniums; ana ID
contrast next toilet OF opal blue with full train
buds aud white daisies. This seems simple enough
but the cloud OF lace was thread netedged with founc
ings OF real point For this exquisite toilet was being
prepared set OF delicate pink coral and DIAMONDS
There are accessories of these lovely toilets IN the shape
Of exqustey painted fans hign full rus wide sashes OF
two colors reverse and fantastic neckiets
To correspond with medieval fashion Of dress
come the new Jewels with settings of wonderful beauty
and in this dress have the Srathcatlon OF re
of
should be worn the pearls, the eDeralds. aud the
changeful opals Of the East. Accompanying superb
| necklace, in which the diamonds were graduated 10
SIZE was a pendant of heartshaped diamonds surround
ing heart-shaped emerald from this was suspended
similar shaped large emerald set in diamonds Ihere
were earrings to correspond Eaameed in gold IN bril-
liant for pendant and earrings OF Medcs
PORTRAITS The high full ruf. jewels and headdress OF
those days exguistely painted The new style OF
necklaces Oblong squares OF yellow nnelypierceo
gold connected by slender bars between eacn ohe
hang red gold balls cut in diamond facets Inc ear
rings in corresponding gold are made like stars ana
attached this set is massive cross oil pierced go
| set with red gold studs. Another equally massive
styIe is OF nterlOeked bars OF red gold New watch
chains are slender links Of gold, caught together by
lovely large pearls and bars OF tinted gold Leontlne
watch with square chatelaine chain, bars, shdes'
and locket, was superby enriched with flowers
IN gold OF four colOrs. on massive
/
face painted pale blue and pearly-unted enamel
with Iiny wings OF diamonds. Another tiny watch or
/ PompaGoul style looks out from black enamel ana a
wreath Of tinted flowers sparkling with diamonds.
medieval massive chatelaine In he shape OF paddock
has the tiny face OF watch in its center set with pearls
and diamonds on small watch of creamy tinted
enamel with rosy glow, the graceful form OF Morning
floats upward on heecy clouds, dropping flowers TO
earth and through II all there CLINT OF golden rays
Ipou the other slde on surface Of the deepest blue
enamel Night recnes, clasping sleeping children In
her arms There pendants Of exquisite styles IN
cameo and gold, incTused with precious stones. Ihe
art OF cameocuttng has certainly reached the hshest
degree of perfection Upon onyx sard, chacedOny, or
chrysoprase heads and NEUROLOGICAL studies are aih
fullv reproduced in delicate carving. On pendant
sardonyx Of a rosy brown. couded with Whte delicate
tutings is head OF Egyptian antique the setting
worthy of the gem its dropping pendants OF gold and
diamonds.
Anotber beautiful pendant cross of that dark ONYX
with lis upper strata OF a translucent bue-gray. had
carved upon it the Immaculate Conception after
Murillo The figure OF the Virgin is fine specimen OF
artistic skill AT the upper points of the cross are
angels heads in mist CT clouds. Another pendant is
formed OF q cameo nearly square, group OF tiny
figures standing in bold tinted relief from the mel
low brown OF the onyx, representing solomon's Judg
ment taken from the famous picture. On an antique
sard f sunny rosy hue is the farewell Of Hector and
Andromache On a crescent-shaped black onyx are
carved Cupid and Psyche this is set in heavy pierced
gold with fringe OF pearls. Set in bracelet Of open
nerced gold is an exduisltey sardOnyx OF Phebus
driving his chariot the design representing the rising
sun above in golden rays, each tipped by damond and
falling mist beneath, produced by lnnumerabe deli
cate gold shafts with dropping diamonds so blended
a. 1-Tf,. rartoa pnf Irrl1t nua