Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1874-11-13
Hints About Dresses.

HlntS ABOUT Dresses
A good model for trimming handsome
black silk skirts is to have two bias vel
vet hounces, each over an eighth of
yard deep, and head each by q wider
silk tiounce that falls over the velvet
ruffle, and is also shirred to form .
dropping puff and standing ruffle. To
complete such costumes is polonaise
with matelasse front, velvet sleeves, vel
vet basque back, and sashes trimmed
with jet fringe. Another French design
for black silks is that of having five rows
of jet galoon extending down the front
breadths to the flounce at the foot; two
wide. .pleats, on which bows are set, trim
the sides of the very edge; the back
breadths are puffed above, and held in
place by sash; the fiounce has piped
hem below, two shirred putis above, and
gets much wider behind. The erect
ruille at tie top of the flounces Is now
doubled, or rather its edge is sewed in
with the shirring, and thus a puff is
formed. Black silk dresses with the
box-pleated back breadths have on the
front breadths single deep iounce OF
the smallest knife-pleating, headed by a
wide bias band of velvet.
Worths dresses are full of sugges-
! on handsome costume of black silk he
has put an oversklrt with deep apron
front, forming sashes behind by folding
| double each of the back breadths of
silk, tying them ina pulled knot high-ss-
the tournure and trimming their square
ends with two bands of velyet and a
series of his favOrite loops. The front
of the apron has wide velvet border,
and the original trimming down the
middle is triple boX.pleat, very wide,
held down by four cross-bands of velvet,
and also finished below with loops.
Trimmings of knife -pleatings, shirred
flounces, puffs, and bias bands are seen
in abundance on dressy black silks, yet
there are also house dresses of black
silk made in the simplest manner, with
scarcely any ornament. For instance,
there are basque and single skirts of the
heaviest black silk trimmed with single
bias band of velvet three or four inches
wide placed straight around the skirt
three inches above its edge; pockets of
velvet are set on the side cores, a velvet
Medicis collar trims the neck, velvet
piping edges the basque, and the sleeves
have two narrow pleated frills falling
toward the hand, with small velvet cuff
above. This is said to be the favoritC
home toilet with Partisan women of 20
sition and refinement.
The trains of evening dresses are in
creased in length, many of them meas
uring two yards, and even more. The
waists are basques both for high and low
corsages though the pointed and chate
laine waists are still seen. Long pleated
fan trains are in great favor for full
dress. The bulk of importations for full
dress occasions consists of silk dresse:
with trimmings and tabliers of brOcadeC
gauze; white gauZe striped with black
velvet, blue or rose new sleaZy gauze thai
has a silvery sheen and many accesso
rles of tulle, both plain and embroidered
with elaborate floral garniture. There
is also much duchesse lace in new pat
terms resembling the designs of MalineS
lace. For trimming the trains are deer
flounces of gauZe, fringed and festooneC
by having two lengthwise pufls at inter
vals Silk flounces are narrow in front
and become sometimes three-fourths OF
yard wide behind, and are made up ot
clusters of side pleats, often twenty-five
in group, alternating with widel
pleats that have only three in group
There are also many full, thick ruches o
pinked silks in scallops, in saw-tootl
notches, and in leaf-like points, will
much shirring and wide puffs. Gauz,
over-skirts are triple aprons fringed, ol
else deep, irregular aprons, on which ar,
laid pleated sashes formed of one or tive
breadths of silk laid in small Hat sid'
pleats. The middle of such a sash il
laid on the right hip; one end crosses thu
apron to the foot of the dress in front
and is fringcd out there, while the Othe
drapes the tournure, andis tied in long
looped bow on the left of the back
&. | io In oil tl
silveTy gauze over-skirt and pleated blut
sash the tlounce is in wide and narrow
pleated groups. Basques are finished
with loops and bows behind, and have il
many cases Pompadour square neck
filed with tulle folds. A sky-blue sill
basque with Pompadour neck, trimmed
with sheer white muslin pufts, folds anJ
Nalenciennes lace, Is very handsome.
Fresh and youthful toilets of whit
tarlatan and of muslin are so simpl,
made that young ladies can make then
at home. The gored demi-traincd skir
has three knife-pleatings Tapped, eacl
six inches deep, and hemmed. The close
clinging front breadths have n tablier @
loose, scant puffs held by three or fv
lengthwise ribbons of blue or rose gro
grain, or else black velvet, finished wit
rosette below. Three narrow knife
pleatings edge this apron and extend u
: the sides to a panier puff, which shoul
be full and long yet slender, and he'll
back by side sashes of wide ribbon form
ing two long loops and ends. The corse
waist, laced behind, should be ftte
smoothly and round on the hips, an
! have pointed neck, low in front an
back, but high on the shoulders, an
J trimmed with Grecian bertha Of fold
[ Tiny pleated sleeves come from unde
r the folds, and have rosette on each. !
white silk waist lining is necessary, an
! sometimes more pleatings are added o.
| the back breadths. Lengthwise tablier
/ are very much used on young ladies
evening dresses.
: Large flowers are preferred for til
. garniture of dresses Among these ar
soft, loose-petaled roses, so perfectly i'm
! tating nature that the lightest breez
. blows the petals about. There are pin
| crushed roses and dark red Agrippina
and white roses family fecked wit
Y pink. A deep fringe offlowers edges tn
! apron and the bertha, and a long vim
. extends down the back from the belt
s the edge of the train. Scarlet poppiC
are mixed with long brown feather
[ grasses and seed pods. Others are vine
of the green leaves of the rose-bush, wit
' clusters of roses at intervals, and no tw
. clusters alike. For young girls are ga
lands of lilies, azaleas, violets, acacia an
clematis. Coiflures are half wreath
!. with pompons of heron's feathers for til
& left side. The aim is to trim the ha
{ high in front.-Haiper's Bdgar.
n -. I.
n | -Tha total tayahla Valtps In Main