, 1874-01-18
States north Of Mason l. Di1on's line in the

1ane ueAt Lue hlttCl6 C1 clothing, A1Q the
economy Of the French stands out in an equally
conspicuouslight While they invent the fashions
and change them as often a8 thar please and
the whole fashionable world Of idiots slaTishly
and servilely adopt them, the Freuch themselves
are far too Rhrewd and wise to throw away their
garments as often as the mil1iners and tailors OF
Paris devise new styles. They
DO NOTHING OF THE K1Sp.
Not one person IN Franco in ten follow the
Paris fashions. The masses never change the
one or more, Sunday ay-go-to-meeting suits Of ap-
parel, but these are not laid aside or cast away
with every change OF fashion, but are kent until
they are we'll worn, when they find their way to
second hand clothing stores in England, Ger
many, or else" here, or are put on and worn as
everyday clothes. No money is wasted in try
ing to initiate the chameleon changes of the
demi-monde OF Paris; that ia left for foreign
fools to do. They are far too sensible and prac-
tcal people to do anything of the sort and it
aHords them many hearty laugh to see foreign
era aping Parieian fashions. and trying to follow
them as often az they are changed.
notice in the French papers tue announce
ment that the mantua-makers. nlillners, hair
dressera, and costumefs Of Paris; during the hol-
idays, are going to present II. Sardou, the play
wright with magnificent diamond ring, as q
reward for his successful endeavors in inventing
new ana costly fashions. Whenever trade is
dull, sardou comes forward in the nick Of time
tdinaugurate, with a
PIECE AUx RoBEs,
some startling fashion, which, by reason Of it's
eccentllclty and extravaganza, III sure TO capti-
vate the butterflies OF America and 'other coun-
tries, but, from its absurdity, cannot last long.
Take his play of "Oncle Sam" intended
ostensib1y to take of or caricature the follies,
extrayagauces, aud corruptions Of American fash
ionable life yet the real purpose was to give op-
portunity for the display Of some new fashions
iu female dress he had invented. and which were
fearfully expensive. The play has had great
in, Tara nrHf a raftaiD nr0nnrt1AD nf Anpri-
can female apes have actually full IN love with
the stage-dresseB intended to ridcule them and
their countrym omen, and purchased hundreds Of
them, although they will be tout Of fashion "
long before they can Haunt them in drawing
rooms and bathrooms in America.
And now comes 6ardou with q new play, =
piece in three acts and five tabloaux, called
TEE MEnyE1LLEusEs.
which the Paris 1nilllners hope will impress the
fashions on the womankind Of every other
nation except France. There ia no merit in tho
play itself. The plot is weak, the dialogue in-
spid the whole thing absurd; but the costumes
are gorgeous and captivating to the female
mind. and may hereafter make many pater
fa1nilias groan or swear when he comes to foot
the bills.
There arc some tricks Of the faRhion-trade in
Paris not generally known. yet we'll worth being
made public. For example, those gorgeous
stage, what becomes of thens Are they cast
aside when the play has run out, or the opera
piece has been performed? Nothing OF the
sort. They are carefully taken to
the fashionable milinery-shops in Paris,
London. Berlin, Vienna, New York, Madrid,
Rome, and other cities, temptiugly displayed in
the windows, aud
FOLD TO THE B1RDs OF PARADISE
as bran-new mud just out, for twice what they
originally cost the manager. Those who have
stage must havo observed that the parts which
trail are always faced up with white muslin, to
keep the garment from getting solled. This is
stripped of when it ia placed IN the shop for
sale as an adorable robe just in fashion. But
this little conGdence-gamo is not restricted to
the toilets OF the Paris actresses. but ex-
tends to and includes the French ID
dies of the highest fashionable circles,
who only wear dress few tlmes
After they have taken the ne" out Of it, the
robe is placed in the bands Of one OF the hun-
dreds OF dressmakere, and sold to some Ameri-
can. Russian, Cuban. or Brazilian lady, or sent
over to London and sold there to the arlstocracy
OF gentry There are thousands of ladies' in all
parts OF the world who get their dresses IN Par's
on order, go as to secure the very latest inven-
ton OF Sardou, Worth, or other patentees OF
fashion; and these orders are filed from
THE cAsT-oFF COSTUMES
OF the Paris danes, actresses, and deml-mondo;
and the foreign purchasers are charged for
them ons~and-a-half to twice the original cost Of
the garment. The French puryeyors Of
fashion never pretend to fill an order OF sell
an article to an American or other foreign
femAle at anything like the price charged to
French woman. Tho Americans are the favor
ite prey OF the Partisan shopkeepers md dress-
makers. They are supposed not to know the &C.
tual value or price Of an article in Paris, but to
Judge thereof by the New York prices which in-
clude SO to 100 per cent tariff. cost OF transpor-
tation. insurance. and tho lbera profits charged
bv two or three sets OF middlonen. The object
Of the Paris dealers il to get from their AneTl-
can customers as nearly as possible the
NEW YORK RETAIL PRICE
Of everything The same rule IS followed IN
dealing with the natives of all other countries.
They are charged substantially The ehome-price Of
the roodB: while tho French customers are sup
plied at the real value, because they know Whist
that is The Paris shop-keepers have very
feeble and dim perception OF what is called hon.
egty or fair dealing. Their rule ia to extract all
they can get, take any advantage, and practice
deceit and falsehood at every opportunity. But
| am told that, in these respects, they are sur
passed by the shop keepers Of Vienna, who arc
ahead OF the world in the art OF
sw1SDL1SG AND ExToRT1oN.
Travellers who have visited Vienna and OBJ
served the style OF doing business there. always
give this advice to those whom they meet:
sWben you buy things at the stores,
take them away Ha ssnt Sa 20 vou aua % lodeue
because they are sure to be changed, and an in
ferior article substituted Never stop at hotol
without first making an exact bargain with the
landlord for everything you are 10 nave, anu put
It down in your memorandum m-book in bis pres
ence; e. leave nothing to his discretion, Or be will
certainly overcharge you. Practice the same
rule in hiring cabs, or in employing any service,
as thero IS no honesty or conscience in Vienna
in dealing with strangers "
Nothing will be Lost in adopting these precau-
tons in Paris, although it is not general rule
to substitute purchased article, or for the cabs
tn charge more than the regulation rates. But
the landlords will :. tuck it on +" whenever there
is = chance, and make bill that will cauRe the
victim to stare.
But ail France must not be judged By PARIS,
nor all Paris by the cheating propens'tles OF tue
reese and the birds OF other countries:. It is
true however, that there cannot be found SHARP
ytted. clear-eghted, cloae-isted, stingy, adrolt,
polite, and adable population, o...ou-;a a-oa,
and how little ia made to so great way, 1t
would be safe to estimate that it does not cost
the peopla of France
oSE-HALF AS MUCH
to cloths them it does the i people o. = the be
neatly cleauly. and comfortably dressed. IT IL