Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1874-05-01
SUMNER FASHIONS.

liRhtness when compared with gros grains.
Some of the prettiest that have already ap
peared upon the avenue have a basque and
overskirt, and are trimmed with the fac side
plating called knife. blade plaits. There are
two flounces of these plaits on the lower skirt,
each about eight inches deep these are sswed
flaty at the top, and again through the middle,
leaving the lower edge flowing like ruffle.
The apron overskrt has single plating three
or four inches deep, made OF straight six,
and sewed but once to the edge OF the over
skirt. The basque 10 usually more piped on
the edge; sometimes thick substantial fringe
trims the basque and overskirt but the shiny
silks look best when trimmed with themselves.
Very good taff.tas are bought fot 81 yard,
and excellent qualities cost 81 so to 81.
Among the late importations are long bas-
quines shaped like geEtleman's coat. with
deep Louis Quinze vest, pockets and ruh' ana
plain hanging back, without any drapery.
This is a cross between the basque and pol
nsise, and as it emanstes from the best faris'
ian houses, indicates marked change in cos
tunes. 1t is made in rich black silk, and
though of simple design, is elaboratsly trimm-
ed with jet, insertion and lace. The SKIRT
has four shirred putfs in front, with ruftiles
around the bottom.
The most stylish hats for summer are those
with coropets widely turned up in front, and
q cluster of three soft stenless roses, pale
pink, sulpher and coral color, placed directly
above the forehead. Other handsome hats
for tall stylish women are in the new Direct
or shape with the coronet cut open, pointed
and tapping semetinee only in front and some
times on one side also. This style is pretty
10 white chip, with band of jet around the
crown, and.two demi-lQpg black plumes stuck
in the front and dropping over the crown.
Pale roses in tri-cOlor are grouped IN the spit
of the coronet. and also behind. The coronet
is faced with black, covered with white llsse,
and mounted on black band that sets closely
to the head. For gay young ladies is the
Ninon Dc L Encl0s round hat, with the brim
turned up high on the left side, and again be-
hind; the front points downward, shading the
forehead slightly, but must not be worn too
far forward. pretty model is of brown chip,
with velvet facing and folds, with pink roses
clustered on the turned up side of the brm.
The regular Corday hats have high Norman
DIV crowns, with plated capes behind.
simpler and generally popular bonnet is the
dropping gypsey front of black or white chip,
with silk Normandy crown without curtain,
but compactly ornamented with rose cluster,
a daisy wreath, or perhaps only slender
wing Of the golden pheasant. The lisse plait-
ing may be worn or omitted at pleasure.
These gypsey bonnets should not come in con-
tract with the face, but must be mounted IN
stead on a crown Of puffs or braids. nov
elty is the reversible bonnet, which has high
loops on one end and roses on the other,
with curved sides, and may be worn with
either end in front, according to fancy. The
truth is, bonnets are worn in most capricious
fashion this season. Last years Rabagas
have only to pnt on with ''three.quarter front"
turning the highest part of the coronet to the
left, and trimming that point with still more
pointed bow and cluster of roses on an al
grette, and q stylish shape is arranged. The
simplest stylish trimming is succession OF
folds of gros grain or China Grape around the
crown-volet, blue gray, rose, blue, or ecru
with the back left dlrin, and bunch Of loops
and flowers just to the left of the front.
Strings are entirely banished. The only
drapery 10 from the new scsrfs mentioned
last week and the Chariot Corday curtains.
Mothers will be glad to know that the
pretty Highland kilt suits are still worn by
boys not yet in trowsers. For cool days they
are made of soft twilled Oriental cloth in
French gray, blue-gray, and ecru shades.
The gray suits are prettiest when trimmed
with blue braid. The loose jacket with broad
English forms is cut in fine tabs of penta-
gonal shape that are bound with blue, and
have upon each q small flap for ornament;
the front falls open, and has buttons on each
side, with mock button-holes Of blue binding.
The little vest, which may be set in the jacket
or made separately, has two points, buttons
up to the threat, and is bound without a col
lar. The kilt skirt reaches Just below the
knee, and is laid in full thick plaits, all
turned one way the plain space in front is
trimmed with lengthwise or else pointed rows
OF braid, and single row passes around the
skirt at the top of the hem. Other suits. all
gray, have two narrow rows of bias gros grain
stitched on for trimming Two parallel rows
of soutache braid make pretty mock button
hole Shaded wood and bone buttons of
bullet shape are used in these suits. For
summer, kilt suits are made of repped pique,
and to make them lighter the skirt has wide
box plsits, only six in number, instead of the
eide plaitings that require three or four
widths of pique. A row of Hamburg insertion
10 laid down the middle of each box plat,
and narrow edsing to match trims the jacket.
Boys just putting on pantaloons wear knee
trousers, straight and plain. with braid trim
ming the outer seam, and three buttons on
the knee. The jackets are like those worn
with kits. having tabs with flaps upon them,
and there are also little English reefng sacks
of very simple shape, with or without vests