Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-01-01
THE WORLD OF FASHION
STYLES FOR JANUARY.
The Fashionable season.
FROM Our OWN CONFECTIONERY !

lFRoN OR OWN CORRESPONDENT
NEW YORK, January I. 1874.
The close of the opera and the approach OF
the holidays has had a stimu lating effect upon
society proper, given rise to numerous festivi-
ties, and enabled some brilliant and courageous
leaders who have recently returned from Eu-
rope to execute the daring project Of entering
an innovation on the some what stale daily rou-
tine Of fashionable life.
Ladies' clubs to the contrary not outstanding,
in society you cannot do much without gentle
men. In this country VIC have few gentlemen
of leisure, so far that they have not learned
any way Of occupying their time. consequently
even rich young men are glad TO he absorbed
in some pursuit to be saved from utter wretch
edDese and ennui.
Gentlemen being thus occupied during the
day, ladies have abandoned themselves TO
louDgng, dressing, calling, lunching, reading
novels, and other weak efforts 10 kill time, cut
tvstiDg society principally as an evening
Amusement, which usually resolves itself into
the rush and jam OF grand party" Oflste
years there have been efforts to improve upon
this. Receptions and the fashionable afternoon
high" tea have brought social element into
the life of women which it lacked, but from these
gatherings gentlemen became tacitly excluded,
because they were so rarely available.
EETTLEDRUMe AND WINTER PIC-NtCs.
Now, however, We have the nucleus of a new
order OF rich, young, idle men, and some OF our
grdHde d0mes, anxious to inaugurste some OF
the habits OF European society, are turning
They are invited to "Kettledrums, )" species
Of entertainment something like a high tea,
where ladies' are in the preponderance, where
the rgidity OF full evening dress Is not req uired,
where The proceedings are easy and informal,
servants only being admitted with trays o re-
freshmeDts and then excluded, the hostess her
self pouring tea or chocolate for her guests,
and where society plans are discussed, sug-
gestions made, ana people decspitated without
mercy.
1t is only Just to say that very few suggestions
come from the few who plum her airaS
not a little On being admitted TO these feminine
councils. The male, whose powers of mind are
mainly expanded on his cravat, the cut Of his
afternoon" coat, and the acquisition of a
'Emiddle" hair line, is not apt to be brilliant in
the direction of ideas. Their principal use is to
hand tea TO the ladies and give the spice Of
yaIiety-by their presence-te the gathe ring.
IL is certain, however, that the Kettle
drum has in it the elements of immense sue
cess, and has at once obtained a fashionable
and enyied vogue. 1t L. necessarily confined in
its sphere Of oper atoms, and is only recognized
under the auspices of ladies of acknowledged
position, aBd il a small number OF these could
be found to act in concert, the " Kettledrum"
might easily become the basis of a social rule as
powerful as the famous London Almacks.
At any rate, IL was at q kettle drum that the
notion of a "winter picnic" was first preached
and at once received with the greatest cordI-
sliiy. Perhaps IL was a shrewd scheme on the
part OF some experienced lady managers to
utilize the principal qualifications OF the idle
men; in any case IL took, and one or two very
successful winter pic mics have been given.
The modus OF e. andi is this: A lady volunteers
the use OF her Louise, which she Is expected TO
decorate with evergreens in PROFESSIONALLY,
mistletoe, cedsr, pine and the like, and also
provide tee. I he rest Of the eatables the gen.
tlemen contribute. One sends a hamper of
ready cooked game, another fruit, another
cakes and biscuits. another the creams and
ices, and so on until the collection is complete
Wine Is not favored. Instead, Russian" tea is
the vogue, simply pekoe, choice bohea, or
mandarin tea. with thin slices of lemon floating
in il, instead of milk. As much of the house a.
possible is thrown open, halls are festooned
with green, tubs and pots containing plants
from the conservatory or hired from a neigh
boring greenhouse are placed here and there,
and the table is spread picnic fashion by the
company themselves who also restore the dishes
to the baskets, and wind up with dance.
NEW TolLETTEs.
Winter gayeties have Developed some beauti-
full tollettes, which desertS more than passing
notice, as they present some quite new and de-
ity from entirely different erss are frequently
teen in the same assemblage, and the effect IL
very strikina,2nd peculiar; 1t gives, ID GER
tain extent, % an ordinary fashionable gather
ing the appearance OF fancy dress bali.
Velvet dresses. for example, and robes of very
rich black faille, made quite plain, with long
skirts, Regence basquts and Henry Ill. sleeves;
the neck of course completed with a ruff OF silk
or velvet outside one of silk and lace. With
these dresses are worn elastic belts of velvet or
corded silk, mounted with flexible clasps OF
chased or filagreed silver, from which Is sus-
pended, at the side, Q solid silver chatelaine,
richly chased, and holding, besides the fan, a
chased silver vinaigrette, perfume flask, and
sometimes small box containing a powder
puff: Six of these chain clasps are used upon
one belt, 20 that but little OF the fabric Is WISH
BILE, aud the belt seems to be composed OF neXi-
bic links of silver.
Palmer stu are the severely cut Princesse
dresses, embroidered in fine borderings and
pyramdal designs with silk and cut jet. and
always accompanied by jet belt and chatelaine
with embroidered pocket, simple in design. but
very rich in effect, and much more striking
upon graceful somewhat stately woman than
more ford robes and mixture Of colors.
49, Very opposite are the long trains OF pale pink
headed with lace, garlanded with trails OF the
splendid convolyulus of royal rose. and worn
over pethcoats ut is the fashion to call short
skirts petticoats now richly trimmed with lace
ribbon and flowers. In the proper coors these
make delicious Vatican tOilettes, and hardly
need false flsNen wig a. formerly to complete
the ensemble, every society belle having ap-
parently grown profusion of fair hair OF her
own.
A Princesse dress of soft, satin finished maise
silk was worn recently, the trained skirt
trimmed with a magnificent hounce of rare
old lace and the upper part covered with tunic
to match. This was looped with great branches
Of coral, spray Of which also ornamented the
hair.
square-cut, black velvet, has Henry III
sleeves, the bands Of which are piped with
black satin, cuffs and outstanding run OF rare
old point forms the trimming, and the skirt is
quite plain, except point at the back.
a very handsome dress, made FOR the New
Iear, consisted of a train of white satin, Dor
dered with two bands OF pale blue corded silk,
covered with pufings Of tulle, edged on either
side with narrow point lace. These pufings
were dotted with lilies Of the valley, trails Of
which caught back the sides from pale blue
petticoat pulled diagonally with tulle, divided
by cordons Of lillies Of the valley. The low bod
dice was Of satin, into which a blue stomscher
was inserted, and was ornamented also with
tulle and lilies of the valley.
very handsome dress Of black aros era IN Is
made In the following style: Train skirt and
polonaise. the latter opening over q pink satin
wais coast, Nilsson sleeve with deep cum turned
up over the elbow and lined with pink satin ami
vest collar. Also lined with satin surmounted
with run OF old lace.
1erletan dresses fiounced TO the waist are
much affected by young ladies Who like dane
ing: four yards cut straight, forming upper
skirt which lie gracefully drsped st the side with
q wide sash. Heartshaped or square cut bob
dices, with antique sleeves prettily ruffisd be-
low the elbow are more frequent than Low ones.
Quite new effect is produced By adding 10
sleeveless Jackets Of velvet long wide sashes
bordered upon the encs with deep lace or fringe.
Two Of these sashes extend down the sides Of
the back breadth of the trailing skirt, which
forms an extended pouf; whatever fullness there
rs In the skirt being massed into this back
breadth, which h also cat longer than the