National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-11-11
GBNTLEMBFs FASHIONS.
MATTERS OF DRESS, ETC.

Extravaganza in dress is not so wholly confined
to the ladies as is the popular impression, those
| Of the sterner sex being quite as exaeting and
giving their talors fully as much trouble TO dress
them acceptably as the ladies do their dress
| makers Men are as anxious to be correctly in
formed relative to the styles and often experience
! difhculty in obtaining information Of reliable
character on this subject. With this fact in view
our reporter visited the palatial establishment Of
| the Messrs Bartram Co., Vernon Row, and
| from thence CLEANED the following observations
on style. We give instrumentation as 1t occurred
verbatim:
Reporter. THE REPUBLICAN has sent me to you
| addressing Mr.. Bartram, who by the way was
recently editor Of leading New York fashion
journ0D 70 obtain Information of interest to the
public on the fashions for the present season.
ton IS Won 4 maT desF re- sSST Uf You uS ten
minutes for this interview.
Reporter, (smIling.) What do you recommend
as suitable wear for dress occasiOn2
Rr. b. Fashion admits Of but one color and
| material which Is black. The coats are being
cut to reach the bend Of the knee, finished plain
that is, without silk facings or velvet collars;
vest made with rolling collar, with three but
| tons. 1t is fashionable with many to wear en-
broidered vests, many very elaborate patterns
Reporter. What is proper for day receptiOns2
Mr.. b. For occasions Of this kind full dress
coat and vest with lght-colored dOeskin trousers;
gloves and tie to match.
Reporter. Thanks. Now for full dress wear.
Mr.. B. Well, double-breasted frock coats, cut
long to button high on chest with single breasted
cOllarless vest Of same material, or double
breasted white vest, cut to show above the roll OF
coat, with light or dark pantaloOns, as desired.
| The materials most in vogue are diagOnals,
| Bakets and dark Meltons. Bindings are uniVer-
Reporfer, Now in reference to the trousers;
| (pOinting to a pair on Mr.. b. are those the
latest2
Mr. b. Most aSsuredly-else should not wear
them.
Reporter What are the dimensions.
Mr.. B. At knee p inches, bottom III. have
Dair for mVEelf with giQe-banl left
in the form of a Welt-this feature in trousers is
becoming fashionable again.
Reporter. What style Of coat is that you are
Mr. B. This garment is one which is becoming
quite popular. 1t is a gle-breasted cutaWay,
with high roll to close two buttons. From the
lower button, as you will see it is cut away in a
straight line from the bottom Of the skirt. The
single breasted cutaWay, closing one button high
on the breast, will probably be more popular than
this with those Whe do not indulge in dress as q
luxury.
Reporter. Is that a new style of goods? IRE
ferring to large plaid lying on the cutting ia
MI B. Yes, that is the very height of the
style.
Reporter. Is it not rather prOnOunced2
Mr.. b. Far from it. Clothes usually called
loud are not so much so by virtue of the color or
wear Of the goods as many persons imagine. No
garment looks loud on gentleman; 1t is the
man who wears them. and his manner of wearing
them. Plain goods for business wear are no
longer in use, checks and plaids having super
seeded them.
New Workers are better dressed than other peo-
pie?
Mr.. B. I'll tell you why. They leave all but
the selection Of their goods to their tailors. The
New Yorker never wears q short coat when long
ones are fashionable. Neither does he wear small
pant1lOOns when large ones are fashionable. So
lar as making and cutting are concerned there is
good talent outside OF New York as there Is in
it, the only difference being that those out of it
are trammeled by the ill-adVised instructions Of
their customers.
Reporter. What style Of OVergarment are you
making mostly?
Mr.. B. The double-breasted sack; those pre-
feTring English styles however, wear the surtOut.
Reporter. Do you face them?
toner.
Reporter. Pardon me, If I appear personal,
but is that collar you wear the correct thing?
Mr.. b. Yes; am glad to make few remarks
on that subject, as very few dress their necks
properly. The effect Of an otherwise well dressed
man is marred by rundown collar, as you will
see. The collar is two and half inches in depth
and cut TO flare from the neck, rendering it COM
Portable and giving it an air of style which no
Reporter. How about shoes?
Mr.. b. Shoes are worn with sOles as broad as
the loot and quite as wide at the toeg
Reporter. saw a card of yours in THE REPUB-
LICAN in reference to ladies' listers, TICKETS
ETC.. is not that a new branch in your business?
MIR. b. None but a tailor can make ladies'
riding habit, or properly make any garments
Reporter How do you fnd trade?
Mr.. b. Very good. We have all we can do.
The class Of trade we cater for cannot be brought
together in day, although so far we have been
accorded very liberal patronage.
Reporter. You are from New York, Mr.. Bar
tram, are you not?
Mr.. b. Yes, sir.
Reporter. And your partner?
Mr.. b. Is Mr.. A. Saks, Of this city.
Reporter. am much obliged to you, Mr.. B.
Mr.. b. Not at all, sir. Good day. Call in at
any time you are passing.
Reporter. Thank you.