Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-09-12

o.
exquisite beauty that wonder the artists who
oyerrun North Conway, Mount Desert and
other hackneyed ground have not found il out
There are dozens OF charming subjects for the
artist in this Delghborhcod, and a rich portfolio
OF sketches could be made, starting from Farm
ington and following up the Sandy river 10
Phillips. and crossing from thence to Rangeley
Lake. On account of the scope of view from
Mount Blue 1t has been used largely as a gov
ernment survey signal station; and tire govern
ment has had the crown of the mountain cleared
OF distractions TO the view. On one side the
mountain falls away precipitOusly In granite
ledges and loose masses of rock on a Titanic
scale; and looking down here we saw on a pro-
lection what we at first took to be a "wood-
chuck" or -'ground-h hog" ont which proved tn
be a porcupine, and of a size and age TO indi-
cate MIN to be an old settler. A Ia6orious at.
succeeded In gaining safe retreat in the will
derness of rocks. POrcupines are not uncom-
mon, learn, amongst these mountains.
To Resume.
But to resume our lske-trip. We reached
Phillips, prepared by our drive through the
breezy atmosphere of this region, to do full JUS
tice to the wonderful profusien of good things
put upon Maine village hotel table, and which
is quite sure to embrace at least five kinds of
pie, whether the meal is breakfast, dinner or
supper; for New England is
.T The land land Of the free e end the home Of the pc
stitution, and their sons have pieOusiy cherished
i. Beyond Phillips we left the Sandy river val
ley and began to assail some of the mountainous
elevations we had been eyading hitherto. We
crossed Beech hill, which didn't have many
beeches, but was covered with raspberries, and
hundreds Of acres were quite red with the low
growing bunch-berIy. Beech hill is a curious
hill that is dge miles up and only two down
cross 1t as you will in any direction. Going over
Beech hill one of the party-the tallest-pro
posed TO get out Ito stretch his legs" He was
earnestly begged not to by the others, as s'they
(the legs) were long enough already" This was
unkind, considering the way those same legs
toot-stoels, hat racks, pin-cushions, Il fish-hook
receptacles, carriage brakes, &c. ETC., until the
owner never knew where to put his hand on a
leg for his own use. But there is no such thing
as gratitude in this world
kimbaI1's.
We reached Kimbal's hotel. at the head Of
Rangeley lake (twenty miles from Farmington}
about sundown, and as we drove up, the smoke
from smudge," in operation at the porch
notified US to look out for those little UormsGts
the midges, or as the Indians cali them, the
d" no. o-see-Bms,' from their diminutiye and
almost invisible form. The "smud<e" is a
smoulderipg tire from burning chips Of wood
bark, &c., in an iron vessel; and the smoke
emitted by this is about the only III dge- expelIer
yet discovered. People on the piazza are slap
ping them' elves right and left on account of the
midges, but they comfort US with the assurance
that this is nOtbing-thst our real tribulations
will come from the black flies and mosquitoes
when We reach a" the lakes" The fact is we ara
going to the wilderness and the trout-vatsrs at
the height Of d" fly -time,n when there are bites
to be received at both ends of the line.
At klmbail's, though the place is not exactly
Saratoga hotel, We faIed snmptuously, aud
Lad the keenest of appetites to appreciate the
good things provided. But, best OF all, there
was trout fishing so near the door that the iuve-
niles OF the party caught handsome string of the
speckied beauties within sound OF the breakfsst
bell. Two trout brooks of medium 81 re empty into
the lake at Kimball's, and those who do not care
for the hardsbips of "Toughiug it' in the will
derness further on for the sake of big FISH can
get very good sport just about here. The trout
are not large, but are lively biters, and there
ball TIE big front are to be found also. In the
morning we started for the foot OF RanPeey
lake, the road, which now momentarily grew
rougher, taking us over the mountainous conn
bordering upon this beautiful sheet OF water.
At enc difficult point of the road we passed over
vast Il dyes of Greccid " pudding stone :" yerv
much like that of the pillars in the old Repre-
feLtatlVes Hall in the I. 5. Capitol. Then after
passing over more hills or mountains, we came
70 the last village cluster of houses before enter
ing the wilderness that extends unbrOken from
here 10 the Canada line. This was
"RangeIey City"
tiny village under the hills that has a trade in
spruce (chewing) gum collected mainly in the
winter hen the snow is high in the woods and
the gummeFs can move around readily on snow
shoes amongst the spruc9s, and at an eIe yation
TO reach the prOtruding gum-drOps. Almost
everybody here cbews gum, and it is somewhat
alarming to see the ladies Illuminating in this
way until you learn that it is not tobacco they
have in their cheeks. 1t is a graceful hos
pltality OF pretty Kangeley girl TO divida her
cud OF cheWing-gum with yOu-a dainty, coral
tinted morsel almost as sweet as the mouth OF
the giyer. But am DEPRESSING.
Leaving Rangeley, our road became more ami
more OBSCURE, and finally iI seemed to como t.
an end in
Mr. Williams0n's Barnyard.
where we had been advised to leave our team
n hl fraTI
followed by a carriage. Mr.. Williamson came
forward-a tall, perspiriDg granger, with ine
open couDtenance, enhanced by a razor cut in
continuation of his mouth from hurried shaving
in haying time. We asked could he take charge
OF our horses for three or four days, and put the
carriage under cover. "Wai,' said Mr.. Will
hanson, 81 can keep it in the barn nights aud
rainy days 1 shall hev to run it out when [ am
gettin' In jag Of hay. Hev You any oats? Pm
clean out, but I've got plenty of hay" FOrtu-
over to MI. Williamson in trust for the horses
ana then we packed up some of our lighter bag
gage Including the fishing gear, OF cOurse) aud
then started on foot through pastures and fra
gram WoOd-paths 10 S0uie's Camp, at the foot OF
Rangeley Lake.
.ssouIe's''
We found to be plain cabin sOrt-Of. house in
the woods, on the border of the lake; but Mrs
Soule, kindly, matrOnly looking hostess, bus.
tied about and managed to evolve from some
quarter the materials tOr one of the most apo
tziDg OF dinners, among the items OF which
were fresh trout, game, white clover honey ia
the comb, (such as is found nowhere in such
perfection as in Maine,) the whItest and hight.
est OF rolls, and more kinds of pie than | can
enumerate. And only 80 cents for this feast fit
for the godsi There were half a dozen boats
here, and taking one OF them we crossed the
lake near its outlet, the Oquossoc stream, and
following wood-path that skirted that stresm,
we, after tramp of some three miles emerge
upon tie Kennebago, (the Oquossoc and Ken
neba9o streams united,) and see on the opposite
shore the group of buildings styled Camp Ken
nebago. Crossing in one of the boats stationed
mere, We make our way to the main building of
this group, and are cordially welcomed on behalf
or the Oquossoc Angling Association by their
camp superintendent, Mr.. q. T. Richardson.
We find ourselves in an immense room Of rustic
unfinished walls, carried up. like the interior of
Gothic church, to the sharp crown OF the roof
Up next the ridge pole a colony of swallows
have built their nests in security, and keep up
a cheerful twittering as they dart in and out
At one end of the great room q vast stone tire
place, filled with huge logs prOpped up on great
boulders, sends ont glow of ruddy heat, and
looks vastly cheerful, hospitable. and in
character with the big apartment. On
the stone hearth q semi-circle of water
soaked boots, Just doffed by the Jolly fishermen
returning from their days sport, are being dried
for the morrow's use. Outside of these is a
semi.circle of the boot-owners, toasting their