Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-10-01

Tor q girl OF twelve or fourteen t~crsv-sye AL
lAIs for house dress for q grown woman, and
ate a. they seem where there - a lsrvs In
come, arc far beyond the reach OF the majority
who hsve many mouths % feet sud many
bodies 20 clothe npOn q small one.
But row ] come O. the point OF al these pre-
Hmiralv remarks. We have an Abundance n
the best Scotch and English wO0ieus this season
AZ lover prices than were known even before
the war, English hOmcspun diagonal serges,
rough csmels' hair cloth. Scotch checks, worsted
goods a. AL kinds, plain ana dsmasked, al these
fabrics. in short. heretofore deemed exclusive,
and to which value lss been attached not a.
al justified BY tire cost OF their production.
The pressure Of the tines uPOn the English
manufacturers, Their willingness 10 ssa 40
IFlce barely sathcieut - pay running expenses,
snd the fact that the gods have been br5ught
over in large quantities. ami put 5-or the mar
ket 81 rnuch les than the usual Proat. furnishes
the explanation 81 this favorable sspect OF at
fairs. though rev viii care % Inquire Row it il
they fiud What once cost a dollar aud dollar
znd halt re need % htty Ana seyenry-fve
cents, but viii lTOtAbly accept the TACT aud ask
10 questions.
It's matter tor cougrstulAtion. however. snd
q - really 30 be topcd thar thousands uf women
Wfo ave sflycrea al thelr iivcs in tacIr cotton
RTd wool telsiuCS and aipscas Do embrace
he Opportunity, and supply themselves and
her children WITH one OF more good warm al
wool salts ana dresses.
INVISIBLE cHECRs, rEyTsrELE STR FRS Ar
INyrS-FLE rpIuc~.
A year and q hait $40 ] advanced "a cherry to
count tyT The sdgIuou OF ucuual uat- iu
tres-, and treG'Ctct tie combination 0f autz
tud shades, upon tHe growth OF taste sui skill.
which wOuld dad % AT expression iI dress cor
resT oEdiIg Z 70 = ympECni,siu IN music. rlis idcs
has been ever since auu h nov working tts'lt
cut 10 N-Elugs Ways. The composite cP-Fgmcs.
that j., costumes composed OF tao or three
-hates 81 one color o. siIk, The bonnet anl
other accessories uf the toilet arranged 20 har-
ucnize WITH the general plan. are the most
highly distinguished OF any that are designed
ar Worr, and deserve 20 he. Tor they are works OF
art requiring patience, taste, skill, aud AFFORD
lng room iur TIE exercise 81 real genius in 1e-
sign ~ well as courage IN execution.
The symphonic .ides las now been carried
into fabrics. The leading styles iu camel's
hair cloths, Scotch tweed and homespuns con-
sist OF Invisible checks aud stripes or cheeks
and stripes 81 AIDED iu neutral bTOWTs and grRvs
with such careful art that the lines seem out a
ghcstly materiailzation upon tue dsrklv blended
surface. These are tho fabrics which are used
for pOlonsises and the garment II enriched with
an embroidery IN WOOL and wOOlen fringe. con-
tanning az Tie shades combined IN tie ma
terIsl.
Limousine" or "Oxford" stripe, a. Il is
sometimes called. II = fashionable material TOT
pOlOnases. IL Il = sort OF large meshed wOOlen
tOweling with a hair stripe in high coiOrs cross
ing the Invisible checked or mOttled ground.
Some OF the colored stripes are made much
wider than the technical "hsir.' but these are
not generally approved. They are considered
noisy and not gO2d taste.
Mstelasse cloth is the fsshiOuab.e new mate
rial for black suit, black jackets aud the like,
and Is always associated with velvet. lt n \
mixture of sllk and wool I'm very small diamond,
wheel and COMPASS quilted pattern, and lOoks
like vesting. Sometimes IL Is used 20 form the
body part Of a dress with velvet wholly or i'm
part for sleeves, bands. revers, cuffs. collars,
pockets and the like; sometimes a Is made 20
form plain, demi-trsined skirt sn sieeves with
velvet sleeveless jacket, velvet apron, sash asd
cuffs.
CoMBrNATION DRRssRs.
have alluded 10 these, but they are worthy
Of more extended remark. They are known in
D nrHnH a
and IN their highest fUrm consist OF rich six an
two or three cOlOrs or two three sh ades Of one
color, or possibly OF two fabrics united and
blended af every point Of contact 80 as 70 form
one complete whole.
Instead OF being arranged in two or three
parts, the skirt IS covered with puGjngs shirred
aad reversed or knife-blade pleaunEs. The
tsbieT or front consists 0f a series Oi aprons,
each one founded aud edged with pleatiugs and
double piping, or II is arranged an a series OF
ian shapes, the points coming together In the
center under elaborate bows or other Orna-
mentss and the spaces revealing tie lighter
shade or contrasting color beneath.
BasgUes With pockets, Eide sashes or trim
miugs IN which the different shades, C0lOrs or
materials are blended, are added 20 thIs clab-
Grafton OF workmanship, which IL repeated upon
body and sleeves until the dress IL mass OF fue
gatherings, puts, pleatings and h0unciuss. Tie
labor upOn II is immense. The fabric, no mat
ter how costly, ls cut mp lntO shreds. aud the
result Is absolute destruction Of the human
form.
AZ proof, try to have an artist draw one Of
these costumes, and be viii look Al IL frst Al.
miringiy, second dOuhually, third despairinRly;
finally lie viii say: 'Eh.s II al yery rue. have
no doubt but give me something else; Il has nn
fOrm."
Yet women 90 into ecstacios over these dresses.
and Day two hundred and htfy dollars for ole,
which they viii wear SIX times and cannot AXE
wA1K1Ss JACKETS.
We have no cloak bat the water proof, bat
We have a fresh supply 0f the ttilor-made,
English walking jackets, watch OF late We ars
have obtained frsbiOLa5ls vogue. There rs no
difference IN this OF material or trimming. only
II cut, yet this is so marked that 8 lady who
wishes 10 be well" that II, EtylIsalI-fresssd, i,
must lay aside her old one, uO meter hJw tine
snd handsome It is. AID get q new one or be
content TO lock outCf date.
The modification consists In the closer adRp-
taton 20 the form, the narrJw back, the shap-
iDg-in at the sldes, tho marrow sleeves, ana the
altogether simpler, palmer design. certainly
much better adapted % such garments, aud 4
infinitely more becoming than the brosi, loose,
fanciiully cut and slRshed costs AZ . sac.ues
which were lDnicted upon us Few years ago.
served entirely for winter wraps aud water
proofs. The suits seems TO grow daily more
close and compact, ana the addition needed Tor
warmth II made 70 conform 70 its general char
scteT as lar as possible. TIE dOlUlan Is nov
employed mainly for white clOaks tOg evening
and opera weary it, long loose sleeve ana sacqus
shape Offering lao impediment 10 the preserFa-
/ ton OF a handsome toilet.
The cuTiass jacket, which Is simply plain,
round basque without sleeves, A. universal
fayOr.te; Il Is 50 pretty, 90 convenient and -
becoming. lt is made an all sorts OF m tterials.
and accompanied by an apron upon which II
ali there left OF the Overskirt. IL resches the
highest point OF elegance in real lace. beaded
and striped with velvet or velvet embroidered
or striped and bOrdeTed with bcadUd lace.
TBH NEW CARDINAL HAT.
The new autumn hat is q sOft ash, gray or
brown felt, with rather broad, daring bfim,
turned up high on one side above q rather low
crown, and embroidered in two shades OF gray
or two shades OF brown upon a slight, leafy
application OF silk or velvet. Starting from the
front is a long ostrich plume laid AZ over the
crown, and curling from the edge OF the brim
almost 10 the shoulder. Round the crown T.
band composed OF folds In two shades Of silk or
silk and velvet, and the brim ~ the side is
mounted with silk or silk and velvet loops anu
pearl, steel or cOlOred glass ornament on
the front Of tie brim covering the stem of the
plume is the finishing touch which gives the
name TO tie chapeau. Ii is rose or bunch OF
pinks in the deep Cardinal" scarlet. new
color, beside which ordinary scarlet grows pale,
and this vivid fash is repeated 81 tue back in
a Iibbon bow placed under the brim. These
hats are considered cheap ~ twenty dollars
each, the plume alone being worth ten.
All black hats are enlivened by touch OF
scarlet, either upon the breast Of q bird, in a
dover or a knot Of ribbon: and plain gray or
I1ae enFHa -