Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1874-10-27
THE FASHIONS.

Rumors gain upon US of impending revolu-
tions-hints that the world will soon witness
the throes of an anti-fashion and long dress
society or congress. The anti-fashon move.
ment is simply one Of those spasmodic phe-
nomena which are as harmless as Summer
lightning. The short, dress movement begins
10 look serious as it is sensible, and will be
approved by all sensible women. In France
there are TO dragging skirts, no anathemas.
The women wear their short skirt with an ex.
quisite, airy, and dainty grace. conscious of
the purity thereof, and knowing that there is
cate instep. All pedestrians, both men and
women, are therefore amiable. To this
Americans are gradually arriving, and she
who slowly promenades crowded thorough
fare with trained skirts will become as noto-
| riOus as was the woman who persisted in
chignon and hoop after both had ceased to be
| fashionable. Cleanliness, propriety, and a
Christianlike regard for the emotions of
others, should rebel against the trained street
dress, Fashion, however arranges the mat
tiers of this sort quietly, firmly and surely. as
Autumn consgns the leaves one by one to
the dust, and to wear trained dress in the
street, with one Of the new cuirass basques,
the chain-mail overskirt, the fiat close apron,
Joan dare costume or any of the late strik-
ing changes in dress, will make woman look
as bold as she is bizarre.
High and strongly contrasting colors are
quite abandoned. There is simplicity 10 style.
but not in quality or ornamention. The fash
ions for Winter are appropriate and sensible,
yet of exceeding richness and extravaganza.
The excess in embroidery has reached its eli
max. Ii is impossible to be more embroder-
ed more braided over aud sewed over with
the glittering of beads in Jet and blue steel,
and steel gray and white jet, than women are
now. After safety comes reaction; so it is
we'll to recommend ladies not to embroiGer
upon rich material itself. Imported dresses
are deliberately trimmed with the jet work APP
plique the beads are formed into wreaths and
other designs upon some stiff material, cut
out and then laid upon the silk or velvet,
when the style becomes old-fashioned, as it
will sooner or later. The applique work is
easily ripped off without the fabric having been
defaced. Some imported unmade black silk
dress patterns are beaded in design, and to
suit each part of the dress. For instance, the
tablier is nearly covered with an intricate de-
sign, and this is repeated graduated on the
back Of the waist, the fronts, cuffs, and per-
haps a little pocket in the basque. The
made black silk and black velvet costumes
are trimmed with lengthwise rows of rich Jet
embroidery, edged with jetted lace, placed on
each side Of a putting or bands of velvet. The
regular overskirt is in its decadence in its
stead is worn the apron of various length and
styles. In the embroidery Of intricate handi-
craft one cannot but commend the progress
of industry and perfection OF manufacturing
processes.
From England in new fabrics by way Of
contrast and to teach people common sense
and the Spartan simplicity attributed to Re-
publican America, there come to keep US
warm "Oxtord' homespun and Scotch cloths,
among other novelties. The homespuns are
soft all-wool, large-meshed and diagonal, and
| come in every shade of gray and brown. The
Scotch cloths are similar to the English in
fashion, both styles ranging in price from so
cents to 81 yard. Nine yards of any of
these comfortable Oxford homespuns will
make "Zenobia' or empress" polonaise,
which combines the effect of basque and over
skirt in one, trimmed with wool fringe and
smoked pearl buttons, for wear over any sort
ola black skirt. So England keeps us warm
but France makes US beautiful Ia return we
send England American silks and American
water-proof,qui:e equal in beauty and durabil-
| ity OF color to the English.
Liberal use will be made of velvet this Win
ter. The finest or most desirable velvet is of
Lyons manufacture, and the most elegant has
an Indefinite shade Of invisible blue, or
blaek-blue. The very fashionable costume
for carriage, visiting, or church, is combi-