National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-05-22
Il FASHION SERMON.
SUMMER DRESSING


in the world.
In order to be fashionable we sct aside ideas
of our own, if we have any, and willingly &C
cept whatever comes from q constituted au-
thority. From north, east, south, and West'
from village and hamlet, from town and set
'tlemen., comes the same cry, "What is fash-
ionsble?' Not what I ought to wear in tenn
perature one hundred degrees in the shade the
summer through, or in region so cool that II
it difficult to get the fruits to rpen; or for quiet
living AMI church-going in q country village,
where fashion has not penetrated; or for
rouGhing it in the Adirondacks; or solitary
Families among the Berkshire hills; or starring
it at Saratoga and Newport and Long Branch,
among society queens and bellies.
> No, il is ALWAYS what is to be fashionablei
or what is to be worn this season. And often
times the echo comes back with such strange
words that they are perfectly unintelligible to
those to whom they are addressed.
Let us be honest and simple and call things
BY their proper names, and not put on airs
about fashion when we only want to know how
to make up q useful alpaca, more pretentious
but not so respectable japanese silk, or g
plain cotton-fabris with which fashion, as
fashion, has nothing to do.
OF course il is we'll enough TO have these
made up in good and tasteful style, but 1t ts
folly to make them the copies Of elaborate and
exceptional costumes, such as are usually Sc
lected to illustrate by pen or pencil high fashion
Last summer, for example, fashion ordained
high, tight-ftting polonaises, close 70 the
throat, and finished by thickly plated fraises
of silk and lace. Nothing more Inappropriate
or announcement could possibly have been de-
Vised; vet, because they had been worn the
winter previous, We were condemned to them
through the scorehing weather Of our warm
summer.
This wear comes from Paris an order to re-
tain velvet for summer wear, and adopt dark,
ugly warm color-pouchard "a deep msroon)
for insignia throughout the nineties Of July
and August.
"a really fashionable woman can arrange all
this. Her plain, demi-trained skirt of black or
dark blue velvet does not look out OF place
under her polonaise OF white wool upon cool,
gray morning al the seaside Or among the
mountains. She can even unite the distasteful
pouchard on occasions with the pale cowslip or
lemon color, equally fashionable,) and pro-
duce a costume which would not make one feel
Is II one had been looking at Dore's pictures
of Dante's 'tInferno." Moreover, these cos
tunes are not worn all the time, or frequently;
they are only q minor part of an extensive
Wardrobe, comprising many costumes for every
separate purpose and occasion.
But when it Is question of one, two or three
simple dresses, which are to serve many uses,
and be worn in and out of season until they are
worn out, their essential qualifications are
widely different. Color and texture should
harmonic with .he season and with the per-
sonal characteristics Of the wearer. The style
of making also must be modified by the condi-
lions to which it will be subjec:. and the facil-
titles for restoration when overtaken by injury
. or exposure.
Young ladies or older matrons who subordi-
nate fancy to Judgment in their dress will fail
in producing the excitement of petty sensa-
ton over a startling new hat or profusely be-
rufied skirt, but they will be, as a rule, the
best dressed members of their circle, and will
win permanent respect and esteem by their
good sense and true perception Of what is ft-
ting, and therefore beautiful.
AN OUTFIT FOR SARATOGA.
Suppose 1 am fashionable lady and have
the choice of where ! shall spend the simmer,
and decide on spending 1t at Saratoga, what
preparations must make!
= Being fashionable lady have many things
which will be useful and, according to my
ideas, necessary to me-.
/ Ny jcwel-case contains some diamond orna-
ments, rings, earrings, cross, an aigrette or
butterfly for the hair, handsome set of pearls,
set Of turquoise, several lockets, gold, onyx,
and the like, gold necklace, besides some
antique canoes set with diamonds, bracelets
out Of style, q modern silver chatelaine with
pendant attachments, complete set of lovely
torteise-sLell, including fan, and Jet and other
common and odd things without number.
My wardrobe is also supplied with fine under
wear of every description, linen and cotton;
walking and trained skirts richly trimmed and
plain; several different kinds of tournares, one
for trained dresses, another for demi-trsins,
and a third for walking skirts.
have some light silks, one heavy black suit
In addition to velvet and cloth which have been
worn through the winter. have also some
polonaises, one trimmed with insertion and
fhaR hot II
with ccru lace; fine llama face jacket, q
thread lace shawl, Spanish lace scarf, several
thread lace, Mecklin lace, and Cluny lace
barbes, cspes, and neckties, and fans, sun um-
bCellas and parasols, plain and with thread
lace covers, all want. Now, what shall ! dol
decide to put away my heavy silk suit, with
the cloth, velvet, and furs, until next fall.
The light silks will Go to wear occasionally
through the summer as dinner and evening
dresses, and one which has become somewhat
defsced must have its lace trimming removed
and be worn under one of the new, pretty, and
not very expensive black lace polonaises. I
must also lave an entirely new silk In two
shades of soft drab, with crepe hsse plaitings,
princess dress Of summer blue or straw color
and maroon silk to wear under q polonaise of
English embroidery, black silk to wear under
polOnaise of silk canvas or ''trellis" cloth,
and will take two suits, blue linen suit, a
lawn suit, and two half-worn black silk skirts
the springs in the morning.
A hair-striped silk with two pairs Of sleeves,
one in the plain color; black grenadine suit
trimmed with lace or rich silk and jet fringe;
two evening dresses, one of black lace, the
other Of white muslin trimmed with wide Va
lenciennes lace, and some sleeveless jackets of
silk and velvet are Indispensable.
From three to six hats and bonners, and at
least three new pairs of boots and shoes in
addition to those on hand, costing from seven to
fifteen dollars per pair, would be included in
this very moderate list OF wants, which, after
all, has omitted many requisites in sashes,
hosiery: handkerchiefs, and other small arti-
Giles of use and ornament, which require to be
renewed every returning season.
GOING TO TIE ADIRoNDACKs.
But perhaps we-have determined to ignore
the gaiety OF watering-place life for one season
at least, and intend to camp out, or live in log
cabin in the Adirondacks.
The first thing to do in such a case is to
pack away all ones good clothes in a cedar
chest or closet, and get a satchel roomy enough
to contain supply Of linen, three dresses, and |
wrapper; fourth costume will be required |
for travelling dress.
The three should consist of a flannel suit |!
(sahor blue) for ordinary wear, a cambria or |
pique skirt and polonaise, and pale pink or |
rnrrsf ,lx,T 10