Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-10-24
Lake Leman.
A BET reHTPuL AuiUMN RESORT IL swITzsR


AS the traveller e. e. south from Germany he
caves the places where the season is breaking
p and oCmes upon those where it Is Just com
encing. Nevey Is perfectly full. CIsrens and
Rontrs sUx are OVERLOOKING with arrivals. Ii
81 ems strange to hear their hotel-keepers say
~ at the tesson hss just commenced. Il sden,
Niesbaden. Hombnrg are deserted; the shores
tfthe Lake of Le man are crowded with tourists
nd residents. 1t is summer upon its banks,
nd but Tor the early hour at which the sun sets
ever those famous rocks Of Meiilieris it might
'lmoet be midsummer. The woods are green
own to the waters edge, with the faintest
hinges or the autumn hues showing in their
tayes: The vineyards are laden With fruit.
Tie vine dTessers say, however, that the har-
wet Is lot so abundant as In former years, but
u at the quality of the grapes is much better.
More abundant IL seems scarcely possible that
h could be; anywhere q bunch weighing half a
ouDd may be bought for ID for the grape
cure has commenced, and the inyalidS have be-
lun the system" The system consists in con-
sumiug the greatest quantities of fruit, and
Eb>taining from tea or coffee. A conscientious
invalid will get through thirty-one po1nds
weight OF grapes before what We should call his
Breakfast, and even then probably have no
breakfast at al, but only bath. The medi-
ire Is certainly very pleasant. only the guam
tity seems excessive. Che Vineyards are in
thems elves not a pretty cro.-. The clusters of
grapes are beautiful, and there is bloom upon
tire fruit, but the mode OF cultivation Is stiff
and formal. Hops are much prettier, and good
beer vastly preferable to their acid VINE. But
II the vine yards are disappointing, all the other
vegetation along the lake is beautiful beyond
description. The expresses rise as tall as poplar
trees, and as str Al yht; the Olean1eTs aud pome-
gTanates are in flower, and the ig trees in fruit.
All along the north bank Of the lake there are
towns and vii ages, a. which the boats and
trains stop on their journey. They are so nu-
meFous that the train pulls up about as fire.
queDtly as metropolitan engine-Clarens, and
MOntreu1. and NeytAuX, ana Neyey. In many
cases there are 10 towns at al; no shops. but
villas surrounded by vineyards. Lausanne is
pretty town, with a tine cathedral, a museum,
and very large college. 1t Is TO Switzerland
very much what Bonn is to Germany, and a
great resort for English residents. Education
II said to be very cheap here, but the iDhabi-
tsnts speak an incOmprehensib,e pdtOiS. Near
tie town is the cemetery OF Pierre de Plain,
where kemble, the tTsgedan, was buried. The
town itself is on a height and back from the
lake. but the port of Ouchy, with its magnin-
cent hotel, IL one OF the most delightful aud
most freguented of these watering places. A
few miles further on is Neyey, now 30 crowded
with visitors that it is nearly impossible to get
into its hotels. Here 10 almost the best
view Of the lake. WHEN the sun ssts be-
hind the rocks OF Meilierie, and the waters
of the lake are calm, no prospect in switzerland
can be more lovely. LuceTne has not the ex-
panse of this lake. The mountains crowd
down upon 1t, and the sun sets too suddenly;
but here it is difficult not to believe one is at the
seaside. The seagulls are sailing over head or
swooping down upon their prey in the water
There are numerous yachts rugged with pecu-
liar Kind OF sail, seen in no other lake in swift
zerland, nor indeed anywhere north of this
town. 1t is said TO be an imitation OF the build
OF old Roman sailing ships. But il the lake
suggests the coast in fine weather, the resem-
bisnce is much stronger when a storm arises. 1t
is difficult 10 believe that this take place 50
rapidly as IL does. The bostmen n know the signs
of the weather, and can predict storm in the
midst Of the most placid calm. The winds come
roaring down from the mountains, and in ten
minutes the lake becomes so rough that all the
little boats hurry in TO any landing places they
can make. The water in some parts is 600
feet deep. Quite at the other end is the town
that gives it's name to the canton, and that
the Duke of Brunswick's gift may make one
Of the most decorated in Europe. Geneva is a
Disappointing place on the whole From the
water II looks extremely handsome, but the old
parts are dirty and uninteresting. Its jewellers
shops vie with those of Paris. There seems this
year great preference for the dark red gold
over the yellow we prize most in England. All
the handsOmest brooches and lOckets are Of this
color. 1t looks like highly polished copper. The
Geneyese seem very proud OF their city having
been chosen as the site of the Alabama Arbitra-
ton, and they point out the hall where the ar
bltratOrs sat. But they are little disappointed
about the legacy OF the Duke of Brunswick
The bsGuest promised more than it has pro-
dGced, and the unexpected good fortune turns
out TO be not so very favorable. Still, IL the
mausoleum to the Duke should be at all success
fDl, it VIII add to the solid attractions Of town
which, in the mere point OF associations is sec
ond 70 none for its size to Englshmen and all
men Of letters.