, 1874-09-20
fhe Peaf 0nse ilore Puied Up--Featle7s
and Fur to Be Aaeh Used.
ca7d;aa! Rcd as a 1r:mE,iag---The
Latest Fashions in Gloves.
Heavy Jet Goods lnported---The
Incoming OF Elaids.

<heu}j have come in August. Instead OF PLAN
r:rcuew garments for cool wcether, our minds
h:Te been set npoa making our Warn-wcathcr
~,-11rebcs endure another mouth. Cancls-hair
.rd sc-se have Ehrunk into insienifcance as
ca,13rci with g-euadino and foulcrd. Or
ro-,se this Lca: has Only been for few days,
md it cannot last lcnE; but coming as it does,
,tthe close CT all alinoet perfect summer, it is
less tclc:ab!e, since it seems as il the season
were only Just beginning. The cquinoctial storm
tei3s t.:e in day or two. however, it will un-
d,nttcd!y bring with it tho suitable autumn
tc@.:cratarc.
Ire ''ofcninss are not yet. That is to cay,
;le retail openings. for wholesale openings arc
to re.ail IS raw sagar il to french bons-bons.
Tie one are gotten up to attract the business
ere of masculine ticslcrs; ihe other to attract
tie fancy aud open the purse OF the large fenli-
nine public The few goods Of all kinds alrca1y
On Tic counters are but faint promise Of the
wealth to come.
THE LATEST sTY[.rs.
For The moment, most os the knowledge Ct
future fashions ccIes from the dress making es-
ADJUSTMENTS. There the shapes Of the garments
arc fast developing. There it is made plain that,
while the po!ona;se is b; no Eeaas abandoned, it
anpcars in mitigatcd FORMS In ono place, it
NlL E6Fc .Q1r7 LID ilOutS, uu4 Ill tAc UELA uAif u
short, pl:.in basque, involving the trimming oi
tie Laca-bEealtns OF the eli,t high enough to
r1ect tho basque Again, it will have long
trcadths behind, and q waistcoatt-f:cnt Ghe for
raer is the preferred e.y;c.) Then, in the matter
Of ore1sk,r;s, similar variations exist. There is
tic triple apron,-thls is one OF the newest
which is carried high, and fur enough back to end
under The puff in tho bacl.wiltls Of the skirt "a
1,u+ 10 af3n
tie sa:uc same stylo of apron With
txu long, st,aigAt Lac1s-Widths in the
bacs, tic drapcry-fullness OF which is either
allowed for, or it is arranged in separate puff
and fastened above.
another btyle il q kind Of apron-tront, square
il shape, and maize of single piece of cloth in
the following way: Tic width Of the cloth is
taken for the de7ti, OF the 2;'ron, therefore q
.loublefold goods must be used. The length OF
the picco needed can only be determined by
careful estimate Of the figure to wear it. THO
two ends If the cloth arc folded together to fild
the middle; which, being found is to1loSed cut
enough. On Qua edge. to eaablo tho Soots to tit
the figure in fr 5ut- When it is fitted to the belt
in trout, tue euls are carried back. and, BY the
necessary piaits. the edge il fitted to tho figure
until 1t meets. in the middle OF the baci: Tnan
it hangs a long, square 1lcce of cloth. To make
1t rraeeful, the drapng begins about quarter
Of yard down from the belt, nnd quarter OF 8
yard ii from the edge OF the cud. beginning 1T
this point, number Of tire p!asts, turning up
na,ds. :re taken, prouucl1f, TIE desired wrlnkled
effect in front. and also forming frll of the
cid. which, when trimmed VIII ,,llpce lace, is
Fe1y pretty over the silH sair;.
THE TRIPLE Api:c-;.
It ought to be noted. in pa*slag. that tho
triple apron is no fiction, but really three aprons,
one above the other. The under is very
long, renching almost to tho bottom OF tho skirt.
The second aul Third i; rons are cs wide as the
first. but each is Il inches shorter than the one
telow. These aprons are usually trimmed with
Fo 3u rt,n,,l l5 1v71 Fri 1+I fk,a f1Srn
Where the material il heavy, it II more grace
full s7ay to make hut apron (tLe long ouo).
aud emulate the others by trimming.
THE ltEylyAL CT The ToCr
Is r.arhE1l. because it is 80 much more in
etreet-tl.csscs than formerly. 4 Socdly proper
tou OF tho costumes now hnve deep apron
oye-skirt. either round .. stluarc, the ends of
winch either caught up oyer the pouf with
faatcEed under the pouf. and arc sufficiently
concealed by that The rut1s are uot SO full al
they used to be. but arc full enough to
form pretty drarery- Ono of the favo7ito
esies Is to to lay the put IL two large double box
pla:ts in the seam between the iirEt and second
Coccs, iurolyn, an extra yard OF length iu the
straight bacl-Lreadth. and the cores next it.
another WAY is to put the fulIuess i'll 2-inch box
rlaiss; anuther is to lay i: i'll sie-palts turning
down; besides : dozen other forms. Ono mode!
h.3 crinolae lining il tho back, on to which
the stuff is fulcd. down to where the t1ounces
meet the putf. have not very much faith, how
ever in the puff being Of long duration. 1t seems
to be simply reriyitled to render the separation
from oyer-skirta easier. What really premises
70 Lave some length Of life is the new
METHOD OF PLA1T1S0 sI1ETs.
: This requires more fullness than we haye had I
recently; at least two, aud. for train-sIrt,
three, straight breaitns being the portion.
These widths are laid in large double or triple
bog t'ai:s in tGe back Of the Skirt causing it to
spread faE-liEe toward the bottom. When these
r!aits are Used, the garn:urc, WITH perhaps, !
tho ,f,f iu17
tie 'front.' frequently curying up on the sides. or
el!vlas dicsouaIy across the 'front.' Narrow |
rlflcs, generally kniie-plaitcd, piped bands aud /
1ods. heading faco and fringe, and double |
non on these skirts tl,e ch|s OF the rows being
completed either cy small bows without ends, |
large Eas..-bows with ends, or cascades OF ailk !
Ice. OF Telret, from the belt to the hem. As !
mag be inferred skirts having 80 much fullness
are as yet confined to the house. We have had
coufo1t SO long in ou-of-loor EcRntincss
that vo should hardly be aoIo to accaston our
seires to these flowing folds at once. It may DO
tetEarked however. that the solitary straight
breadth walkiaS-skirts il lald in double box
PEnt. instead ol being gathered AZ BEFORE III
the full-t7sin skirts, the smooth effect OF tia
toot aud sidc-bread.hs is still preserved.
FEATHERS AND FCR
ale TO be used to trim cloth garments this sen
soo. Many OF tho French jacques already seen |
have collars, cuffs. aud pockets Of black velvet,
and are bordered by bands Of hcrons OF cocks
teat2eTs aa we'll ns or cureu ostrich. Moro light
eolofed garments are seen than for some time,
noughl thlak they will be worn only through the
esriy autumn. Tho materials ure Light aCd soft
.asket-woven cloths, cashmere. Indies cloth,
ta tad . stuff closely resembling French flannel.
.a sas heavier. The preferred shape seems to bo
tae long. round French sacque. double breasted
Won Won throat to edge. These cloaks-for such
we we. 1esliy arc-hAve not nearly go much style as
ne short waking Jackets that have been 20
great taTo7ites but. rs variety IS desirable, tho
.s:s ses sliape Will probably be popular. OF course
M .a!s IS not the only fashionable wrap, but it is
'1e newest. and it is likely to be the favorite.
~ ffyles of outdoor cloth-garnents, rs we'll
afesses, arc oraan,ented with feathcr-triu1-
alss, sometimes in matching. sometimes in
.ooatfsslrg ~ shades. Beside those mentioned.
neltaches n.ls OF crows aud ROCKS feathers, bands
.aae ~ from tie feathers of various game birds,
~ W. psscock ks-ieather thinning for silk and ycl-
'e' u ltE own indescritablo shades.
NEW COLOR |
;@1ulnal ;.@ red, kind OF scarlet-u1roon. It is |
sshded w. exclusively for bonne:s hats, necaties,
~, Eesses will not be made of it, which is
f.. ~ ~ ior IN the mass it would be overpowc1ins.
1..a e1e A Of it used as p;pinss. Innings bows, is
- 1lca and effective. Especially ib it go with