Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1874-09-12
THE REALM OF FASHION.
Opening of the FAN Dry Goods
Trade in New York.
Fashionable Fabrics-New styles In
Cestunes-taekets and TUNES
Akzons and Cuirasses-SleeVes,
Hats and BOnnets.
New York SIM.

ever, THAI mpofTallonS are very large and
varied this year, while the sales of stand-
ard goods are steady and firm at last years
prices. There is IN increased demand for
the camel's hair fabrics; Of which there is a
large supply on hand A marked feature
in the importation of these goods is, that
silks are bought in precisely the same
shades Of color for the purpose of making
composite costumes of the tWo materials.
Many Of the imported suits are seen crn-
posed of the two fabrics, thus: The gored
front breadths Of camel's hair trimmed
with ~1ounees and bands sen tGbIiero of
silk, while the hack is entirely Of silk,
falling in classic folds from the belt to the
floor, or Topped TO form 3 panier or bout
fantS, o. founced from the bottom to the
panier in knife-blade plated or bias shirred
founces. The basque worn with this
skirt is a tight fitting cuiraSs of camel's hair
cloth, with sleeves of silk. The gauntla
cuffs are Of camel's hair, trimmed with
bands and pipings of silk. The only trim
ming On the eorSage is AariRg collar, or
fraise of silk in the neck, and sometimes
shoulder knots of silk or ribbon. The bot
tom of the cuiraSs is simply finished with a
large, heavy silk cording. Buttons to
match of silk, smoked pearl, blue steel, or
colored crystal fasten 1t from the throat to
the bottom. 1t requires a handsome and
w~ellronnded figure TO wear this cuirass
Jacket to advantage.
PoLONAISEs AND BAsQEs
Of camel'S hair will be worn oyer skifts of
silk, alpaca, and poplIn. The silk skirts
will be used with the basques, aud polo
naises of the c~ostlier lines Of camel's hair,
while alpaca and pOplin will be adopted for
the cheaper qualities, which initiate the
costlier ones 20 perfection. The STYLES of
these goods vary somewhat from last win
ter's. DiagOnals and blocked figures m
boSsed on diagonal surfaces are most in
vogue and demand. There Is an endless
variety in the blocking and plaiding of
these embossed cancels hair goods. Ultra
fashion demands a diamond fSufe, en-
bosSed on a basket gtUuhd. Another yerv
fashionable figure is an inch and a half
black plaid on a diagonal ground. An
other is a Grecian polka basket
pattern. Others are I'm honey
comb or square figures on diagonal
surfaces. Medium sized figures, from Ia
TO an inch, are preferred 20 tho larger or
the very small blOck., The richer grades
ofthese faefics sold at Stewards are a
inches in width. The lighter single
width qualities are % inches en- width. and
initiate the cnstlisr grades admirably. ex-
cept that there is not such a variety of TO-
ufeS, most of them being diagonals or plain
surfaces. Dark cloth shades of fuIl deep
hueS, such as maroon, blue, pluin, bottle
green and brown, tGst a shade removed
from black, are preferred, but every tint
and shade is shown from the darkest TO the
palest ecU Handsome as these fabrics
are, they are riyalled in ~softness, beauty Of
finish, and elegance Nv tubins
MOrsvisn woods, which are shown
in similar colors and at much
lower prices. Lubin's reps. another
fabric in Moratian wool, repped longitude
naily are also Shown in the same dark col
OTIS and black. Empress cloths are brought
out finer and softer than ever, and with an
exquisite finish. All wool plaids in dark
blue, green, and black combinations are also
seen among the new goods, and we are as
sured that they will be worn by the most
fashionable ladies, The plaids are not
more than IN inch wide. The goods are
beautifully fine and soft, and from a inches
to At inches in width. Single-width popIin
plaids are in demand mostly for children's
wear, and are in bright tartan colors.
MATELAsSE SILK.
for cuiraSS waists and aprons is something
entirely new. 1t is very thick, woven in
figures to resemble quilting, ard is 3 costly
fabric. IL comes in black and all colors to
match the silks, and in a variety Of figures
from the simple small diamond 10 the elab-
crate aTabesque design. The waists are in
variably made in cuiraSS style, with sleeves
of faille or cross grain silk, and cuffs of me
telasSe silk. The apron long and pointed
clings close around the hips, and Is Fas=
tened under the panier or sash ends, when
there is 40 painter. The only trimming is
s rich silk and jet fringe.
Jackets and tunics of new and graceful
are seen among the new patterns
the mOdiste's first fall openings. The
Adelaide, an overlapping tunio. Il the
latest design in thsse GARMENTS. II is worn
with a double-breasted jacket, thus simu-
a d~oHhle-breasted pOlOnaise. The
ClaXtOn, another novelty, is a very long.
oveTskirt, reaching nearly to the
bottom Of the skirt, both back and front,
very plain at the sides, and loOped in a
modest tOUrRure in the back. L Is an ele-
CANT garment for short, plump figures, Civ
ing the effect Of increasing the appearance
Of height. The skirt worn under il needs
trimming, save a plated or a bias gath
cred hOUnce al the bottom.
While plain, tight coat sleeves with cuffs
or trimmings at the waist are more gener-
ally worn than any other STYLES, the pulled
BrasSard and CaradOra retain their pOpu-
larity for tall and slender figures. The
Marie Stuart sleeve, quite tight, with a
small puff at the top is very stylish for Ia
dies that have we'll rounded arms.
BONNETs AND HATS
are almost precisely alike. The only no
ticeable difference is in the crowns. Those
of the hats are tall, while bonnets have
low crowns, with trimmings arranged to
give the effect of height. Both hats and
hOnnets cover the head well, both have de-
and defined brims, and the brims of
both are as frequently turned up as
down, and rs many have both sides as one
side turned up. The openings Of MILNE
", which occurred the first OF September,
gave a hint Of the coming styles. The va
riety is infinite. No two shapes are alike,
and no two hats are similarly trimmed.
cannot complain that the fashion is
InbecOming TO them, for each one can
choose her own Characteristic hat. But
whether she be young or old she must not
wear strings 20 her bonnet. Two ribbons
nay stream over her catogan or chignon,
md tied under it and thence brought
her neck to fasten in a bow under
ler chin, but the old time bonnet with
is a thing Of the past. Quantities
IF feathers are used in trim
ming them, comparatively few flowers; but
he hats intended for opera or evening wear
nave more or less flowers under or over the
Frequently three or four feathers
seen on the same hat, as, for instance,
, long ostrich plume, a shorter tip, a wing
md aigrette, all fastened down under a
bird. 4 great many different kinds of
are seen on the bOnnets, from the
tiny humming bird TO orioles, doves,
Paradise, and gay plumaged parO-
luets. The MercutiO floating plume, pre-
like that on RomeO's rash friends
as seen-on the stage at Booths, isa
marked feature on many Of the winter hats.
Falls of black lace are placed around the
brim of some of the most elegant
lats; but lace is not generally used so
as il was two seasons since. Two
lew cOlorS are seen among the Partisan
lats, both shades of deep red. The first, |
Volcano, has a tinge of yellow in it, the
ther. Pluton, is a shade between crimson
md dark purplish brown, very rich and
novel. jet spaDgles are seen on many Of
he black lace hats, and cOlOred crystal