National Republican., 1874-04-01
THE FASHIONS FOR APRIL.
EASTER TOILETS, SPRING SUITS,
TRIMMINGS, BoNHETS, so.

JET GARNITURE-GLoYEs.
-... IFrom our Own CoTespondent.1
J., NEW YORK, April l, 1874.
EsSter Sunday is Hshow Sunday" on Fifth ave
nue yhen new costumes make their debut on
every matron and maid who appears on the prom
enade, Ard thus the April fashions are decided
The Easter display comes early this year; henes
darkest hues chosen for It, through fear Of an
ticipatIng spring Weather.s Three features are
conspicuous in these new toileAes, the first o
which is the fancy for
MATCHING.
Everything must correspond in color
making . monotone outfit bonnets, dress
wraps, ribbons and gloves all being tints Of one
color, varied but harmonious. Indeed, with more
simple toilettes, the lingerie (such cuffs, col
lars and handkerehIeD have no prevailing color
introduced.
sHIRRINe.
The second feature is the old-tins gauging
or row upon row Of gathering, that il
Euperseding pleating, and is used on wraps
dresses and bonnets.
ENGLISH EMBROIDERY
Is the third 'fdea" in costumes according to ths
phraseology OF the dressmakers who aspire to be
artists. This is . revival Of the open needlework
In stars, wheels, circles, eyelets and compass de-
signs, In vogue Q decade ago, before thick en-
broidery came in. Cashmere, silk and muslin
bands. are wrought in this fashion for trimming
PolOnaises and upper skirts, and sometimes the
entire Overdress is made of this open needlework,
making IT look like lace, and though made Of Silk
1t is scarcely heavier.
SPRING BoNNErs.
II o whole costume cannot be schieved for
Easter q new bonnet is q consolation the feIain.ne
lErged editions Of last years styles which were
copied from the fsshionplstes Of antiquated ladys
boOks-the sbsurditles that We laughed at two
now accepted as graceful, becoming and altogether
These are the stately directories with eorOnets
Win Sms r asndsT
features, and various styles with eccentric brIms
caught up in cApricious fashions to suit arch,
p9uan1 HS1 81 ,,h 5nS eSSersge Amer
(unblesehed,l very. hne, flexible as silk,
and very frail, is the fashionable material for
SUMMER; and it is wen to get the good Of chip
bonnet while the shape is in fashion, as It cannot
be "done up" as more substantial braids and
straHs are sometimes done. Soft silks cut bias are
the trimming for these, almost to the exclusion Of
silks and laees, and the fAinteEt, most delicate
cclon are used, either shaded or In contrast. The
upon which trimming Is heaped. This trimming
is not in set bows and loops, but is an irregular
scarf twisted around the crown, knotted, shirred,
sbon a1S S tse 81 n any oTsf Sen
stuck about on front and Iot, and often split over
on the back All drapery behind is done away
they were hats French pattern bOnnets, mInuf
lace or ribbon, without a bow or feather cost 60
or $50. Black chips, UheR' trimmed with white
and tinted blossoms, or with large blush roses
without foliage, are considered especially dis
ungue.
FOREST FLOWERS.
Entire rooms at wholesale houses are filled with
tiny blossoms Of the early spring, the flowers Of
the forest, heath mountain, and dell, copying ma
ture closely that Il makes sigh for the green
hillsides and stoop to inhale their perfume. Here
are hawthorne, heath, trailing arbAtus daisies,
primroses, wood Violets, periwiIkle, moses, clio
white blossoms and dark berries. These are
mounted In TreAths and branches for the front Of
the bonnet in high pompons for the LEFT side, and
3 long stemmed cluster is fastened on the elastic
and allowed to droop behind the ear. Roses are
more fashionable than ever, but there is choice
even in these in favor Of large perfect Of the
faintest blush of pink else the delicate Isabella
yellow ruse, or the dark red Jacques Minot, the
common pink garden rose and salmon tea roses
are out Of favor.
COSTUME BoNEETs.
Matching" have said, is the fashion, but the
bonnets made to match costumes are no longer of
the dress material; they are, instead, chip fronts
with shiTred crowns Of gros grain or twilled gros
d,orient the color Of the dress, and have facing
Of lighter shade or else on some contrasting hue
becoming to the complexion.
BLACK NET BoNN1Ts.
Black tulle or thread net bonnets are also pre-
pared for the demi-seaseu, but will not be gener-
ally worn until summer. Jet beads are prettiiy
beads, or else in longer dangling bugles. The
Charlotte Corday cap shape is liked for these,
and there is unique fancy for putting pleating
Of white crepe lesse inside these for face trim
nings, making something very like the widows
cap which girls declare so facinatinR. WreathB
Of rose foliage are laid tiatly around the large
crowns OF these caps, and q black ostrich tip Is
made to nod the crown.
The most becoming black net wells are dotted
with jet beads and edged with fringe OF jet
heavy enough to hold It IN place. The shape is
The mask lately worn.
SILVER GRAY.
Silver gray is the fashionable color for April
costumes. The custom Of combining wooden stuffs
with silk Of the came color remains in vogue, and
.een as in the following French model: The
SKIRT slightly trained, is Of silver gray silk with
/ single gathered founce ten inches deep, seWed
N IN shlrfea Pnns. Ihe apron long and Wrinkleo,
Of lighter gray cashmere, piped on the edge
With a silk fold and held back BY bouffant draped
carts alternately of cashmere and Of silk. The
las pocket and pipIngs Of silk with three cash,
mere ruffs- The neck is finished in q way now
much admired, that's, with silk standing collar,
)oI pleats behind. Sieh costume is suitable for
visiting and carriage toilet and also for brides
rnyeling dress, TO be worn when the ceremony is
performed. The bonnet should be o white chip
gypsy, with gray shirred silk crown and roses Of
aintest blush.
NEW PoLoSAIsE.
The sensible reader will be glad to hear an an
horitatiye denial of the rumOr that the polonaise
9 to be abandoned for the sensible, convenient,
imple and graceful garment, could not be well
pared. Another welcome hint is that the newly
imported Polonsise are long, belted, and of SIM
'le shape 80 similar to last years styles that the
garments now on hand will answer as they are or
m easily be draped in the present mode. Few
leW garments button down the entire front, and
p-h nth -f0a fln.- ha,-
little novelty. The new plan is to button them /
My about basque length below the waist; to |
rim the front edges thence, and let them fall in
eep points on the sides. Light camels hair, the |
eW CEmbry studs, and cashmere. are the fabrics |
Or polonaises, TO be worn over silk skirts. The |
ounces on the SIX skirts are very simple, and |
1ay either be WOolen or silk, OF each alternate
J. Pockets are far less conspicuous than Formerly
9th IN size and position; they are now ablong and
nerly flaps, and are pushed far back on the Sides
else directly behind. Buttons are also reduced |
D siZe. They are many pretty shaded bone but |
ons and finer ones OF tortoise she'll but the |
xydiEed monstrosities have their day. The faring
nedeei collar or the English collar with pleated
ackr 10 always made Of the sllk with which the |
'olonRise is trimmed. The newest black polo-
aises are satin-strtped, and are trimmed with
legant novelty is the English embroidered poIo- |
aise OF black silk. the entire garment being
Trought In open needle-Work in intricate Arabes-
ue patterns. |
NEDIcI's sACQuEs.
The most dressy wraps worn with spring COS |
umes are called Medicl sacques, and are Simply
pose basques longer in front than behind and
trimmed perpendicularly from neck to edge with
nnds placed quite near together. These bands
re jet galloon, or else guipure insertion and the
Material upon which they are seWed is black
ashmere or else Sicllenne; row of lace or fringe
dyes the sacque, a ruff Of lace and fiaring silk
re around the neck, and the sleeves are the
BOSE, ugly square Japanese shape, formerly
allied Ia religieUSe.
NEW ENGLISH JACKETS.
The jaunty English jacket, with its high
double breasts, pockets, coat sleeYeE
cat collar and other masculine features, remains
be standard shape for feminine jackets for gen
raj use. The latest importations among these
esigned for spring wear in the city and country
ear In the summer are made Of invisible plaids |
T the darkesa blue and green or gray and black
fixtures. Wide Hercules braid and brown bone |
uttons are the trimmings. A new cloth, Of Ger |
ian wool, called kaum garten, q basket-Wovel |
lDrie, is also used for such wraps.
BLACK SILKS WITH JET GARNTTURE. |
Black silk VIII be more worn this spring than |
/ any time since its long reign began; no other |
rcss so universally pleases, whether for street |
Ostume, carriage toilette, or good dressing at /
ONE, nor is any other 90 economical With one, |
: at the most two new black silk dresses year,
lady's wardrobe is prepared for any emergency
nd she can be we'll dressed on all oceasions from
neral TO weddings, for the black toilet need not
e sombre when relieved by garlRnds Of roses Of /
very hue, cut Jet beads, crepe lisse, tulle and |
Iamonds. Women Of experience do not now se-
ct thIckly-repped black silks, that have q ficti-
ous weight from being charged with sugar and
her foreign substance. The favorite brand OF
yons manufacture is now the light, flexible Bon
4 six, sold at three dollars Q yard, instead OF
le pOnderous Ponsone, at fye dollars, that /
eases cracks and cuts before it ig worn season.