New-York tribune., 1874-05-30
THE FASHIONS.
OPENING OF SUMMER.

| RENAISSANCE IN NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. OF CLASSICAL
BEAUTY-PAsSION FOR HOME AND foREidS
49, NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. AND SUN UMBRELLAS
LACE. s,sIEs AND APRONs-HAIR AND HATS
AN AGE or TRANsITION-BOOTs AND SHOES
NEW SILVER wARE-CRowN DIAMONDS.
A renaissance in fashion has come to us not
only in every mode OF the toilette and Its accessories
table adornings, even TO the simplest areie III
use Classical myths with their revelations oil matera
beauty in and nature. have been revived ana the
modern artisan In rushing extremes has vaued from
our prosac mechanical century back to the very dawn
Of romantic fable. .'
The skill Of the artist taxed to the utmost to produce
fresher and graceful patterns for embroidery ana
we are longer dependent upon foreign hands Tor the
anest aud most elaborate work. hitherto called FrehcH
as it can be done TO order at our large mercantile
Silk robes are literally covered on front breadths
or oyerskrts with embroidery in which is represented
the finest most minute work in vines, garands' ana
small flowers; and others are shadowy with tans ana
sword blades OF the palm and great fronds OF inc
banana blossoms Of the otos fanasicaly twined with
buds leaves and sprgs and curling endrils Many OF
thcse robes glitter with nnumerabe jets dotted through
the embroidery. Fine fern batiste polonaises
are masses Of intricate handicraft, done In the
long, soft India stitch, with pale pun'
aossy linen thread in the style as the SILK Ecn
canvas grenadne and gray linens arc also beauruiy
embroidered, In the stitch known as the point rnsse;
can be worked in fine wool on batiste and Summer
cmels hair In floss on garments requiring washing
and ia done on blue linen well as on gray ana ON
brown polonaises. Very elegant parasos arc ini-
ported, covered with unique designs in heavy en-
brodery and the edge finished with scaliopeu nouhce
falling over under hounce OF lace between each
scallop falls oval tab which Is embroidered rose
Tho scaIlops are edged with a narrower plated ruiie
edged with black Chantlly. Another style Oh
parasoI OF black turc satin is trimmed with medalions
Of gupure and jet There two tn fes headed with
let passemcnterie. and edged with jet fringe; the
handles arc of opalescent pearl ebony with silver at
tachmens, maachte, and In simpler kind OF malacca
and nlad rosewood These and the pretty acecoyered
parasoettes intended for carriage use For every
day purposes OF shopping and walking there are only
The useful sun-umbrela OF various sizes in SOFT turo
satin Of rich plum prune VINE color pigeoIsS eeck
changcabc hues and plain dark blue or brv-h, with
amacra sticks finished the end with an ivory silver,
or oxydIzed knob bright bit Of agate, carnean,
or pearl delicately carved
Lace Is worn greatest profusion. There are large.
long made up OF black net to be shaped as de-
sired over this the laco Ia arranged in rows, one over
the other, there being generally five; little round
waist corresponds and the tnnic Is mace bougdnf by
draping with wide scarf II will not be necessary TO
cut handsome lace. Llama lace sacques are steadily
increasing in popularity, and come TO us this season
shaped slightly the figure Nor are the sleeves close
as formerly indeed return is manifest to the graceful
flowing sleeve They range In price from SIS to &5. ac-
cof1pg to quality. Sacques come In yak lace ana also
OF gupure and are made up OF gupure and yak inser
ton alternating with black velvet ribbon. Other styles
are made of insertion thckly studded with jets, with
alternate stripes of ribbon. Another make gives strips
Of jet passemonterie and velvet The YAK lace ana
guipure sacques expensive ranging as high as
$780, not less than s5c But these caprices are mostly
shorIived, and the llama sacques are safest to invest
n There cxquistely fine and beautiful thread lace
sacques but, with all their beauty, we cannot recon-
mend them for the same reason OF the fuc.uaton OF
fashion, and would be impossible to make other use
of them Thread lace and fine llama lace points
retain their popularity and will be used great deal for
overskrts and, indeed the new shawshaped overskirt
seems to come expressly for the use OF lace points
Lace for the neck infinte variety; the long
scars OF gupure and black spanish lace retain their po
sop and other ances make up lace into little iet-en-
brodered capenes rounded to the throat, then falling
into long scarf There also half kerchiefs Of
black gged Lace ending in long searfs one sees
charming black aprons made long OF rows or yak
Insertion Jet gmp OF guipure and alternate stripes
black cashmere silk Siclienne; broad founce OF
lace finishes the edge and then the apron which must
be worn black silk cashmere skirt, Is draped
back and fastened by long sshes These dainty fashions
come beside exqusitey embroidered cashmere, black
grenadines and of them have suspenders OF strong
black net covered with plaitings OF lace.
A dainty caprice is a for white aprons, equally
long, made OF OF Valencennes lace and edged with
finest OF organde laceedged files in place of bibs
There suspenders OF Lace and lace aun6niere lined
with delicate violet rosecolored silk the tie at the
neck and the sashes drapng the apron ndng.
Is no longer tie the sash behind Many ad
mrabe belts and sashes are imported made to asten at
the SIDE and the little Is fastened to the sash
ends Sashes like neckties are oong made OF ribbon or
some soft twed silk trimmed with lace insertions
Of lace charming combination is sash-rbbon Of
nal nj nix "A rOw OF Valeuciennes Iac
then ribbon Of faint blue the colors be al
ternated with black lace or black ribbon. Another
pretty fashion, mounted a model white Swiss pol
Opaise, OF fluffy lace drapery sash Of three
of ribbon, about two inches wide, and two OF vaen
ciennes Insertion; the ends rounded and trimmed
with full frill OF lace. Wide black watered ribbon
sashes closely dotted with tiny cut jet beads, and
added to these are belt, aud ann6niers Of the same,
and edged with jet fringe, Crepe de Chine and soft.
wilej silk ties OF faint tnts Of salmon, 6c the yellow
crimson Of Strawberries pale rosecOor and violet
trimmed with fine lace, either oldashioned thread or
valenciennes OF creamy hue set the ends and in-
serted and lovely ties made OF fine old Mechn lace are
carelessly knotted together and fastened with little
bunch flowers great deal more lace added to the
namenation Of hats than first allowed by fashion,
and black lace bonnes will be exceedingly fashionable
for Summer In accordance with the upward tendency
Of the Thermometer the couture continues to rise and
carries with II the hat Thus the apex with
upon which the hat rests, and as strings are dis
carded. many devices are employed to keep the hat
from falling back. forward, or sideways, In fashion
calculated attract severe gances from the temperance
crusaders The high backed comb belonging 1880 Ia
insisted upon to keep the hat 10 order; hsirpins
forced through aud the elastic band and bottom are Of
little avail The latest Paris hat is called ouble 1t s
very dminutve. in fine simply round of Huted straw,
or GRAPE or lace edged with dases panses vioets
any other flower suting the toilette 1t is WITH and
Is oube because 1t is light and thin the at
biscuit which we call wafer, and which we generally