Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1874-03-01

with vigogne for the polonaise, sleeves
of silk with vigogne puffs, and silk
skirt founced with vigogne.
/ SLEEVELESS GARMENTS.
The fancy for sleeveless overgar-
ments has not subsided. Dresses Of
two shades Of silk have basques of the
darker shade with lighter shade for
sleeves, giving this popular sleeveless
effect Costumes partly wooden and
partly silk have silk sleeves with
wooden waists and the pretty English
walking jackets with loose front and
fitted back are also made without
sleeves, to be worn over dresses of the
same material. White muslin Sieve
less jackets entirely formed of stripes
of valenciennes insertion and muslin
are also without sleeves, and are worn
over silk dinner dresses black Spanish
net beaded with get makes pretty
jackets also of this style.
sHIRRED SKIRTS.
A novel idea is that of shirring the
three front breadths of dress skirts
making them form puffs from the
waist to the foot, and leaving it other
wise entirely untrimmed. These have
six or seven large puffs graduating
wider toward the foot, separated by
four rows of gathering such as we used
to call "gauging." The front breadths
must lie very fatty, and are therefore
held back by shirred casing (begining
at the second side seams and crossing
the three back breadths), in which a
draw-string of tape is put, and the
back is drawn In a huge panier puff,
while the front clings to the figure IN
the accepted fashion. The objection to
these skirts is that the shirred puffs
are receptacles for dust that requires
much brushing to get out, besides they
are not nearly as pretty as the more
simply pulled tabliers which are edged
with fringe and fall over founce at
the foot.
TABLIERs.
The tablier idea, l may say here, will
continue IN vogue and ladies who are
making new dresses should not hest
tate to allow themselves the widest
liberty in skirt trimmings, making the
front different from the back, and the
sides In separate fashion of their
own. Diagonal bands of velvet, or of
silk of different shade, are pleced on
front brcadths and there are also dag
onal pulled tabliers. Shirred puffs
and founces gagged near the top, in
stead of being headed by bias bands
will also be used On all sorts of spring
and summer dresses, whether woel'
silk, grenadine, or muslin.
DRAPERY La GREG.
Another new caprice that promises
to be widely adopted to the overskirt
drapery arranged la Gree, that is
caught up high only on one side while
the other sides hangs low and plain.
This is most graceful overskirt and
most welcome change from that now
worn. For very elaborate silk dresses
double Grecian drapery of two scarp
crosses the front breadth beginning
high on the right side, crossing grace
fully low on the left and forming sashes
behind.
COSTUME BoNNETS.
The bonnets for the present immedi-
season are called costume bonnets be-
cause they ale made up of the material
of the costume with which they are
worn or else entirely of the silk of the
suit with some velvet added the Direc-
tore coronets, rumor says, will be
abandoned In the spring for the Hug
nenot and Henri Trois tOgues that
turn downward on the forehead. The
soft high-crowned Charlotte Corday
bonnet is coming into vogue again and
there are distinctly muttered threats Of
pretty faces are viewed down Leg
horn lane" of the latter revival there,
is no great danger while the pretty puff
ed and braided coiffures remain in fash
ion.
TAFFETA SILK.
Black taffeta silk, smooth and shining,
is being made up for spring and sum
mer dresses. This wears much better
than repped silks and is not so heavy.
The design for making is the Henri III
basque, the long square Medicis over
skirt, the short walking skirt trimmed
with pleatings and shiIred puffs, while
three sizes of cut steel buttons appear
on the suit, viz: small ones to button
the basque, larger size for the sleeves,
and the largest size one placed IN a row
down the front of the skirt.
Other silks for spring are Of fine
gros-grain of much smaller reps than
the silk of year ago had, and the
colors are blue-gray and mahogany
brown. The latter is not pretty as it
resemble the yellow Bismarck brown
that had such a run a few years since,
the greyer browns known as dead leaf
shades and dark chestnut browns are
far handsomer.
PERCALEs AND LINENS.
The dark Napoleon blue linens and
percales introduced last year are being
made up In enormous quantities at the
furnishing stores. The style for these
is a jaunty English jacket, n Greek
overskirt, and a French round skirt,
making a most inconsistent but very
pretty combination. The skirt some
times is without hounces having mere
ly a series of shirred puffs edged with
an inch-wide ruffle, set at the top of a
broad hem. English embroidery on
white muslin in open-worked pallerns
is used for founces ON blGe linen, and
for edging linen pleatings. Blouse
polonaises viii also be worn again on
wash goods.
Miss KNICKERBOCKER.