New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-03-23

crous Of poscs exhale religious atmosphere; but,
as carving, it is irreproachable. While sat IN the
archbshop's stall the custodian showed me great
cash on his head, received two years before from
two men who felled him to the floor, bound him and
then robbed tho church of jewels. They were after
ward arrested. recognized. and imprisoned. Ever
since the blow I've been deaf said the custodian
Yes and when those rascals ont ofprison they
willk you, "rejoinedmy guide, better TO have made
no struggle and given no alarm. Your hearing Will
90 from bad to worseD The good -natured custodian
shrugged his shoulders and seemed content to have
done bis duty. How many victims of virtue there are
Would the sacristan allow US to see the casfodid Oh
gilded silver with "richesse noue" of ornament,
inlaid with diamonds and emeralds, costing three
generations of artists centurys labor, the Virgins
mantle containing S. 900 pearlsf NO." replied the
sacristan, looking very hard at me- woman
tried to steal some of the jewels recently" did
not feel crushed by the imputation, because knew
valuable dOuceur what tho sacrlstan
wanted. would not allow The Blinker to give It,
and 30 l was thief in disguise. How cross that
sacristan looked when we walked away, and how
wanted to devote those useless jewels To redeeming
Toledo from dirt and ignorancel
In his Handful of Toledo M. Parros devotes 745
pages to the cathedral. Do you think then that
dare touch an inexhaustible subjectf l will not
even mention the Virgin Mary's appearance to st.
Ildefonse, nor speak of Toledan masterpiece, the
Puerta del Sol, but will ask you to gaze at q
unique scene from the top of the long unfinished
Acazar, which stands the highest point OF
| the town. Toledo lay sleeping at my feet, and
the law Tapus wound around 1T like horace
shoo thankful that sight seeing was of my mind
and legs-six hours had all three been tramping-l
gave myself up to the quiet delight of breathing
the soft pure air that famed u.s. 1t was fine
picture Toledo with its quaint gray towers, turrets
and cathedral DOME and the naked russell hills that
lost their look of poverty and desOlation III their
reflected glow of rich, warm sunshine.
"Is Toledo healthy" asked the guide. Not
very, Sonora. We have fevers because we have no
drainage and the river is very low and poisonous IN
Summer No one dares drink It," Politically Toledo
is the Faubourg St. German of Castillo Its brains,
like its monuments are in ruins and cling to the
past the dearest souvenir of which is Carlis1n.
Still seeking my Republican thought he might be
found in an intelligent guide, but the guide shook
his head. mo, Sonora, l am a Carlist Have you
| remarked the deep cash on my facet That IL
trophy of which am proud. got 1t lighting 1or
the Carlists. And there are other wounds about
nv person. Now I'm too old to fight One of our
principal citizens raised company OF Do
volunteers about ten days ago and
at once. YOU know. The deed was accomplished
gradually and the men wore their ordinary clothes.
But before starting the Carists did great service
The country about here had been infested with
brigands. The Carlists planned an expedition and
| captured 81 of them. Now take long breaths.
There are Carlists in disguise among the mountains
here acting as spies upon the Government and upon
brrands Republicans will tell You that Carlists
are bandits but don't you believe it, Sonora. They
are gentlemen. We we fine lot of Republicans III
Toledo They threaten to destroy the town. What
did they do month ago but attempt to burn down
our glorious cathedral Think of that! But our
best people heard of the plot, and frustrated 1t by
surrounding the cathedral before the arrival of the
incendiares. They can do that sort OF thing you
know. We won't endure it," But surely these
| men are not Republicans like Castelar," said.
They do not support the Government" NO; they
are Intransigentes. The Government Republicans
| behave very well; only don't like them. We
want our King"
The setting sun warned us Of the approaching
train and we sauntered back to the omnibus. taking
| en- route an old curiosity shop. There Toledo
blades made in Sheffield that | refused to buy in
spite of the Maid of Saragossa wrought upon the
| handles. | contented myself with bearing oil a
noble Moorish NAIL and then learned how an appre-
| ciatiye Frenchman had recently bought several
hundred of these unique nails with which to stud
the great doors of his new Partisan hotel Toledo Is
| n paradse of bric-d-brdc. When make my fortune
writing for newspapers | shall follow the French
mans example and, hitting the right nail on the
| head ask for Moor
| How enjoyed that return trip to Madrid! We
were only three hours behind time, and the dinner
party was to have joined at o'clock did coldly
furnish forth midnight supper table, at which the
! guests were as conversational as blinking owls.
K.F.