The democrat. [volume] (Weston, W. Va.) 1868-1874, 1874-09-14
nAYARD TAYLOR IN ICELAND.
An tnteresting Lsttsr--rseuiiaritiss OF
the isIAndI

III you step on blossom, II may be
an arctic plant, unknown elsewhere il
bird ties overhead, II is probably an
elder duck; II q boy speaks in the
street, he may use words made venera.
BILE in the Eddas Of saemund and Snor.
re Sturdusssn. Isolation, separate de.
yelopment, prevalence OF elements that
have persisted in other lands, make Ice.
land study by itself. Scarcely any.
thing / have learned in former travel,
even in Sweden and Norway, explains
the features OF life here. Anchored in
the middle OF the Northern Ocean, be-
tween two continents, the island be.
longs but very slightly 10 either.
The sweep OF mountain shores in.
closing the northern extremity OF the
Faxn Fiord, and the inland ranges have
been gradually growing into form since
our arrival, and almost every hour
brings out some unexpected feature.
To-day, the panorama is surprising.
Sixty.fiye miles TO the west, floating on
the sea like an iceberg, shines the un-
broken white mass OF the Snaefells
Jokull. Northward Of him the land
disappears to emerge again in sharp
blue peaks, which are oyerlapped by
higher and nearer promontories, until,
across the last blight OF the ford, the
bare mountains show every gully and
rayine, every streak Of snow, patch Of
pale green herbage or purple volcanic
rock. Sun and shadow, ever in motion
over their sides, make continual ex-
quisite changes OF color. Inland, there
Is the greatest variety Of outline, from
the turfy shores to the horns, peaks
and rampart.like ridges In the distance.
The mir Is wonderfully clear, so that the
tints Of the great panorama-which has
o sweep OF over hundred miles-are
marked by the greatest possible deli
caoy and purity. Without being deep
and glowing, as In the South, they pro.
duoe almost the same effect, and there
are moments when one can only think
OF the Mediterranean and the Grecian
Archipelago.
We spent yesterday morning on
shore. Tho sailors filed our water
casks at the town pump, some Of the
party bought eider.down or photo
graphs, others paid further visits Of
ceremony. Capt. Howline, proposing
to take stones from the nearest hatbor
island rs ballast, was quite taken aback
by the refusal Of the proprietor to al.
low any portion Of his volcanic real es.
tate to be carried away. The reason
given was that the island would be
gradually diminished in size, and fur.
nish so much the less brooding. ground
for elder ducks. These seli.sacrifcing
birds mako their nests almost in the
outskirts Of Reikiayik. They are pro.
tected by law, and show no fear Of
men.
In the afternoon, the captain pro.
posed o boat excursion TO q hot spring
near the shore, o mile or two from the
town, and three Of us Joined him. We
pushed Of, hoisted sail, and swiftly
ran along the coast, seeking for the EN-.
bouchure Of river, which is fed from
the hot springs. The wind enabled us
TO skirt the rough basalticehore closely,
without much danger OF staving in the
bottom OF our little craft, but we failed
to detect the exact point. There was
two.story house Of stone on o broad
headland; several boys on ponies came
dashing down the green slope behind
it, and group OF children at o little
cove seemed to watch our movements
with much interest. We found, too
late, that they were beacons 10 the en-.
trance OF the hot river. Our only profit
from the trip was the sight Of an enor.
nous seal-it could hardly have been
less than 12 feetin length-which every
now and then popped up It's huge,
stupid head behind us. After dance
OF nearly two hours over the rough
waves, We were glad 10 return and leave
the hot springs from which Rejkiayik
(the smoking or steaming harbor) is
said to derive its name.
Our visits on shore have been con.
tinued to-day. They are always agree.
able, but SO much alike in form OF re-
cephon, heartiness OF welcome, and
even the material features OF the resi-.
dences, that II is scarcely necessary 10
describe them in succession. The best
houses in the town are yery much alike
in structure and internal arrangement.
There is usually o little hall or ante.
room, about large enough to pull of an
oyercoat in, then the study or recep.
tion.room OF the owner, according TO
his profession, and beyond IL the salon
where the ladies' receive their guests.
White curtains, pots OF flowers in the
windows, a carpet on the floor, o sofa.
center.table with books and photo
graphs, and pictures on the walls are
the invariable features Of this apart
ment and in spite Of the lowness Of
the ceiling, and other primitive srchi-
tectural characteristics, IL is always
cheerful, bright and agreeable. Rock.
ing-chairs are not uncommon, and the
guest easily forgets both latitude and
locality as he looks out upon curant-
bushes and potato-plants, while con-
versing with grave, earnest-iaced
young lady upon Shakespeare, German
literature, or the latest music.
The common people-if one has the
right to use the word common in re-
ferring 10 such people-are still some
thing Of o puzzle to me. They watch
us with a curiosity which is intense, but
never obtrusiye, yet when I attempt 10
make o nearer acquaintance through
the medium OF Danish they are shy and
shrinking TO such an extent that they
do not attempt to Conceal il. The
average stature is short, not above Ave
feet six inches, complexion Of coarse,
ruddy brown, hair generally blonde
and straight, eyes blue or gray, body
broad, short, and compact, with short,
sturdy limbs, large hands and feet-in
fact o general aspect Of rough yigor,
but also OF something more than that,