National Republican., 1874-06-01
THE FASHIONS FOR JUNE
MBTR0P0BITAN FASHION EDICTS
THIS MONTH.

Il
MExICAINE-BLUE AND BUFF BATIsTE-
BLACK LACE sACQUEs-CAMBRro AND
| CALICO COSTUMES WHITE WRAPPERS
CoRDAY CAPs-LISEN SUITS ENGLIsH
RIDING HABrTs-sUNDRY HINTs-cROwN-
LESS BoNNETs-JET BAGs-CoIPFUREs.
| IFrom our own correspondent 'r.i
NEW YORK, May 20, 1874.
The rosy month of juno is here, and thin
dresses have been prepared for It; at feast the
pseudo thin dresses of Today, for all those
charming diaphanous fabrics that were once
worn for. low-necked, short-sleeyed Innings are
now lined with silk from throat to toe. This
destroys all their pretty transparent effect, and
makes them very warm, but 1t is declared vul-
gar to wear merely grenadine or Mcxicaiue
above low corsage covers. / do not know why,
nor do consent to it. merely chronicle the
fact.
BLACK GRENADINE. . ....
Black grena1ins is the standard costume for
summer wear, as black silk is for the rest of
the yea. The newest black grenadines have
small ormure figures, pin-head dots, tiny cross
bars, blocks, lozenges, or brocaded arabesques.
These are for leaders of fashion. The popular
wear win stifl be satin stripes, polka dots, and
plain canvas grenadines. The now grenadines
are being made up with -kpIfs,bla pleatings
sewed on 3 demitrain silk skirt, q long apron
reaching to the too is made OF alternate longi-
tudinal stripes Of guipure or yak beaded In
sertion and grenadine stripes, while the back
drspery is merely long-looped, squsre-ended
sashes. Above this is basque with square
back, belted front, Pompadour throat, and
coat sleeves; abundant pleatings of Valenciennes
and the immaculate crepe lisse trim the neck
and sleeves.
Such dresses as these, and others more
heavily laden with Jet are being prepared for
Mrs. Senator this and Mrs. Secretary that,
to take to their Newport or Hudson river
cottages. For palmer folk, who will spend
June in town, and for people of simple tastes
out of town, there are graceful polonaises of
striped or dotted grenadine, made with postill-
ion back and belted front, and trimmed with
light fringes of corded tape or lace, or else
pleatings of the material, but without the
heavy barbaric jet that drags off bead by bead.
The French fancy is to wear polonaises of
striped or dotted grenadine over skirt of
glossy, black taffeta silk, trimmed-as every
thing is-with knife-pleatings or else with
shirred founces of silk instead of grenadine.
Such suit is far lighter than that just de-
scribed; as the polonaise is not tight-itting,
only the thinnest Florence silk is required for
lining the waist and sleeves, instead Of the
thick silk serge now used for Innings. The
taffeta silk skirt is also very light, and its
smooth surface will turn dust like water, in
stead of offering cunning grooves for holding
it, as repped silks do. If basque Is preferred
instead of q polonaise, then the demi-traincd
skirt should have a pretty tsblier front of
puffs and small pleats, and perhaps some lace,
while the back breadths have one large psnier
puff, supported by watered silk sashes, and two
deep founces, edged with pleatings, around the
bottom. The only colors that are stylishly
used with black grenadIne are shades Of pearl
and gray. Blue and pink with black grena-
dine have hard look, and are now considered
decidedly "off COLOR" .
DRESSES OF EcRU MExIeKTNE.
For more dressy costumes the accepted nov
city of the summer is the ecru Mexicaine.
already described, q silken fabric, with large
square meshes that look as If threads had been
pulled out each way to make the open squares.
This, in its natural, pale, golden-brown color,
is being made up over darker nsarroa brown
silk in charming suits. The skirt is entirely of
silk, with Aounces of the transparent fabric
piped with the silk. The deep apron overskirt
is edged with fringe, in which both shades ap-
pear, and there are bows and sashes Of the
dark silk. The basque is made of the ecru
Me1icaine, laid smoothly upon the dark brown
silk, which serves as a lining. Ecru Mexi-
caine is also prettily combined with dark violet
silk in the way just described for mdrron, and
Is also made in polonaises that are worn with
sashes of black velvet or black watered ribbon
over black silk skirts. Such polonaises are
sometimes trimmed with ecru guipure lace,
but these colored laces are tswdry looking, and
are tabooed by the best dressmakers. There
are, also, navy blue, damson-color, gray, and
violet Mexicaines, made up over silk skirts of
the same color or else darker shade. These
will be faEorite carriage costumes and after
noon toilettes for summer hotels and the more
refined cottage life at the watering places.
BLUE AND BUFF BATIsTE.
Blue batiste-which is simply plain dark blue
linen LAWNS . lovely material that takes the
pldSC VI buOoC shShI bioO
linens of last year, 1t is said to wash we'll
which doubt-but 1t can be freshened and kept
out of the laundry all summer by an occasional
dampening with linen cloth dipped in starch
water, and pressing Immediately with moder-
ately hot iron.
Polonaises are much used for these suits; but
there are also pretty Medicis sacques and over
skirts. The trimming is usually two gathered
ten-inch founees on the lower skirt, and mar
rover ruffies on the overskirt, all Of which are
edged with ecrf lace, or else open English en-
broidery, either white or eeru.
Buff bstiste will again be worn for summer
suits. The prettiest on exhibition are trimmed
with founces Of star embroidery, headed by
pufs of the batiste. These hounces are put on
en- ta5lier, to describe long apron pointed to the
very toe of the dress. The back widths are
pulled and held up by black velvet sash. Tne
basque is then made very long in front and
quite short behind, and has Q rufle Of embroid-
cry for trimming.
BLACK LACE sAcoUEs.
The wraps to be worn at midsummer with
grenadines, batistes and summer silks are
sacques of yak or guipure lace, made almost as
loose as sailor Jackets, with only one seam
down the back to shape them to the figure,
and with flowing sleeves. The most stylish
yak sacques are longer in front than behind in
the Henri TroIs shape, and many sleeveless
yak sacques are shown. Guipure sacques are
the object Of desire with women Of taste and
means, but are tso expensive for general use.
Ingenious women fashion pretty ones for them
selves out of guipure insertion, striped alter
uately with black velvet. The standard lace
sacque is of Llama, q woven woolen lace that
fastidious women tilted their noses at when 1t
was first introduced, but have now adopted for
all but dress occasions, praising 1t for its dura
bility, its pretty designs, and, moreover, its
cheapness, as q pretty Llama sacque can now
be bought for $50. No lady need hesitate to
wear such wrap if she will not claim more for
1t than 1t deserves, saying frankly that It Is
Llama, and not attempting to deceive any other
woman into thinking 1t is thread lace.
CAMBRIC AND CALICO DRESSES.
The Mabels and Mariannes in the country,
and the sallies and Mollies of the Southwest.
will want to know how to make their canbrics
and calicoes. their percales and linens. In the
first place, all washing dresses, not intended