, 1874-02-21
The Season Continued in Spite Of Fashions
Piat---Paris Furnishing Old
Things under len
flames.
The Latest Novelty in Flounces.--
Threatened Invasion of Fem
mine Trousers.
Hats and Bonnets to Be Reduced in
Mttude...The Coat-S1eeve
Retiring.
From Our O1tn Cor1espoT1dent.

receptions and kettledIutns; but, II you be 60
ciety-wise, you are aware that the season ende
with the Charity Bali, which took place two
weeks ago. AL sorts Of entertainments have
been given since then, and will be given, until
people beople begin to think Of going away fo1
the GUNNER. But to what period they belong ]
am unable to say; for azn told that the season
ended with the rolling away OF the last carriage
On the morning after tho "Charity." The ball
oetted for its eleemosynary object few thou
lands OF dolla1s; the costumes exhibited in the
name Of bcneyolence cost huu1redso Of thousands.
On the whole, you see there is nothing like do
ing good in your fine feathers; the effect il 60
much more imposing than when you only wear
hpaca or calico at ycur alms-gigins.
LENT II BEGUN,
aud now all fashionable attention il divided be-
tween reflection on the vanity Of Ill earthly
things, and conscientious consideration OF
tummer-wardrobes. II it were not for Lent,
I'm really unable to perceive how tho fair Man.
hattaness could be gotten ready for the fresh
woods aud pastures new which they have in
prospect after Easter. As it is, they spring
forth from the forty days Of seclusion like so
many modieh Hineryas, full clad for vernal VIC
sories.
PARTISAN CONTRADICTIONS
Paris is little backward this year with her
hints and her prophecies; 30 it is fair to sup
pose that no startling changes aze to be made.
Having declared the polonaise utequivocally
dead, she proceeds to resuscitate it in all sorts
Ct shapes aad styles. Not that sho calls it the
polonaise; Par1s never forgets her own edicts;
but we're it not called jacket, q long basque,
paletot. trock~coat, and sundry other
names, I doub: not you would be-
lie7s it the ssme old polonaise you hage
been 80 long intimate with. It is likely to be an
economical mode for us, since, in many cases,
the polonaise OF last year can be easil3 cut over
into jacket Of this. The chief characteristic of
TIE NEW UPPER DRESS
Is, that its lower edge il Always irregular. Some
tails, like dress-coat; while, on the hips and
sides, it is short. Again, the front is cus With
long tab-ends, while the back ia ittlo more than
! jocley-hasqua lying lightly on the tournure,
whero it meets the douuces that cover tho back
of tho skirt. third style shows long, square
tabs On either hip, reaching, frequently, nearly
to the edge OF tho dress; while tho front and
back will be shorter, but not tho same length.
With these jackets, the skirts are trimmed
good deal, generally in different ways on the
front and back. Nothing can be ugier than
Some Of theBe combinations, or More inartistic
than the fashion itself, Imagine, for instance.
the three front-breadths covered with perpen-
dicu1ar folds, and the back with horizontal
Aou1Gl5b. GAl4tAl5 L4l6 toAflEllUH LUak paII8 0l
two gowns had been accidentally put together,
and tlat there had been no time to remedy the
mistake before the owner was obliged to wear it,
The reverse OF this trimming is fashionable, but
it always looks as If the dress were on wrong
side before and you cannot tell which Of the
two is the most inelegant, except that the last
Jou see always leavea the stronger and more un-
favorable impression. 1t anything be q
NOVELTY IN FLouScEs,
it is the very broad Spanish dounce which dress-
n1HkAra A1tatn and xri1f b,+l,
on street and house dresses. Sometimes, it is
nearly three-quarters OF yard deep, rarely less
than slxtean inches. It differs from the old |
Spanish hounce in that it s set on the skirts, n-
the douDce put upon the edge. The edge OF The !!
aounce ia generally hemmed by land the |
she French finish OF piping or cording the hem /
being trafe Passe; and then decorations Of Va /
.ioua kinds, such as bands, narrow rufaes, puts,
ieases OF silk jet, passemeuterie, ETC.,
Ire seved on above, till the hounce
becomes merely background to display The in
Ecnuity Of the modtste npon. A model Of this
style is in this wise: FlouDce three-quarters Of
/ yard wide; the bottom faced with velvet three
paG OF silk, divided by velvet cord,-the edge
Of the lever pun finished by an inch-wids six
suale, and the edge Of the upper pu1 by rel
yet rnhde; Above the puff is . fnger-wide
With velvet. The top Of the hounce is faced
with velvet, and plated On in shells, which turn
back 1nd Rhow the relret lining. It is
=. work Of supererogat'on to put any more
b1 on s1rs Sc nearly
makers are accustomed to supererogatory labors
n beLalf Of their cap1icious mistress, Fashion.
despite the fact that the jacket nonr-
, meets the aounce. a saah of peculiar con-
'tzuction is added. l. piece Of crinoline is cut
halloween and the points not go sharp, and on |
his is tackled il side-plaits. turning uu a
traight breadth OF silk. One end of this
ia fastened on the second seam on tho
1T side, about ten OF twelve inches from the
elt- AZ the jacket covors this termination,
othing is required in the bow line; but, !
cross The front breadth, aud is
,cure:1, just in the middle OF the second gore,
! the top of the hounce the loose and-fringed
uck1e. Ii
Whether this slzirt-design b. admirable or not
ie likely 70 bo cne OF the most fashionable OF
10 spring modes, and numerous suits in this .
sster 1t is plainly intended for tall or moder- :
ely tall women, for they alone can cAEry it |
al. The broken surface OF the deep Honnce
axes abort woman look like 3 pigmy. The I
le variety OF this which woman Of low stature !
u afford to wear is 81 untrimmed HoQnce, and | s
en- this ia Of questionable wisdom. =
coSvES11oSAI1TT INVADED. I
We have been accustomed to regard the Bloom
dress as the type Of tho most adyanced ideas T
relation to feminine attire. Scorers have F
[iculed it; fashionable people have cred it a
sance; wiseacres have shaken their heads 4
er the innovation, and declared it. wouldn't do s
modest women to wear any such seni~mas- b
line garb. And SO eren the few devoted be-
vera IN its hygienic dasirability have sadly, I
t finally, abandoned it. 4 1umor nay, moro 3,
IN rumor,-comes from that chronic1er Of ! T.
aN beer: the reporter OF toilettos, which as s1
ts that ladies' in Europe not only ought to, 4
d. wear trousers Not the uapriDcipled HI
,omer trousers, that we're straight, and stiff, Al
unbeconaing. and therefore improper,-but is
Turkish trousers, OF 1nualin and very sheer ~
nbnc, trimmed with lace, ruHles, and en- p,
dery. They are made to reach the ankle; m
is OF fne lace dropping over the boot-juBt
.gine it in our streets-and as, OF courso,
il elegant effect must not be lost upon the ~.
erver. the skirts are cut short enough to dis 10
; the:f1ills to advantage. The .sgushiug" =.
ocate OF these diapaneous garments do WI
q that nothing s so becoming to handsome ~,
As this style that is to be; but the advocate ~
sea not to reflect upon the hardship OF the RI
that have suffered in the cause OF pointed -
, and French heels, and are anything but FH Ex
!ty 10 their "ioiatiness." It is possible that liz