Dodgeville chronicle. [volume] (Dodgeville, Wis.) 1862-current, 1874-10-30

In reply to correspondent who wishes
information as to the best method to
grow grapes from cuttings, the proper
time to take off cuttings, and how to pre-
serve them until the time of setting,
Rurap says, in the Chicago Tribune:
Grape-cuttings may be grown from the
green Or the ripe wood, and it may be a
question which of the two is the better
plan; but / do not suppose our farmer
correspondent has any idea of making
green cuttings, and therefore that part of
the subject may be omitted for some fu-
ture time, and we will consider cuttings
from ripe wood.
The proper time to take off the cuttings
is soon after the fall of the leaf The
canes may be cut of any length and tied
in bundles, and put in the cellar, away
from frost, and the cuttings made at leis-
ure. The cane is cut square off below
a bud, and slanting cut an inch above
the other bud. This can be done with a
pair of hand-pruning shears. This
makes a two-eyed cutting. These are
tied in hand-bundles of about 100 each
all the short or butt ends one way Bass
mating is the best material for the tying,
though other material may be used. A
smooth place is made on the ground and
these little hand bundles are set on the
ground, top end down, and layer OF
straw is put on, and over this earth and
litter to keep out the frost. During the
winter the cuttings callous-that is
they form small white ring about the
base of the cutting, out of which comes
the new roots. Cuttings that do not form
callous before the buds swell will not
make roots. Early in the spring the cut.
tings are put into beds, butt-end down,
and the tops even with the ground, and
over these about half an inch of sawdust
to keep them cool and moist, and to start
the roots before the leaves; for if the
leaves start first the roots will not push
Some people put them in the beds in the
fall and cover with straw and stable lit
ter to keep out the frost; and this is re-
moved about the time of early corn
planting. Cuttings of this kind should
be two years old before setting out in the
vineyards, unless they make vigorous
growth, and then are not as good as one
year-old layers, made from old wood that
has been properly cared for during the
season.
Early in the spring, when the canes are
tied to the stake or trellis, the extra
canes that have been reserved for LAYERS
are pegged down on the ground along
the rows, and as much out of the way of
the cultivator as possible. The ground
should be made smooth and mellow for
the purpose. After the shoots have made
three or four inches of growth, an inch
or so Of earth may be placed on the cane
and about the base of the shoot, which
will soon induce the growth of the roots
In the fall the cane is taken up and the
plants are separated for planting This
is the best plan for the farmer to pursue
in order to grow his own vines. He
gains at least one year. and at less labor
and less risk of failure. Currant-cut-
tings may be treated in the same manner
as described for the grapes, and in all
cases are better for being taken off in
the fall
A first-class one-year-old layer is worth
about double that of two-year-old cut
tings. In setting a vineyard I could
hardly be persuaded to set the plants
from cuttings, though they cost only half
as much. Most people let the layers go
until the shoots are long enough to cover
with earth; but it is far better to peg
them down before the buds start, for
then they make vigorous upright growth
and the earth can be easily packed around
the base of the plants; besides this, the
contact with the earth has the effect of
callOusing the cane at the base of the
shoot, and roots are at once pushed out
on the application of the soil. Gardeners
depend largely on green cuttings, which
they find the most profitable, while the
farmer, without skill, or bottom-he or
steam pipes, had better rely on layers.