The Manitowoc pilot. [volume] (Manitowoc, Wis.) 1859-1932, 1874-09-17
JOAQUIN NgLLER IN lTALA.
The Poet of the SBerras steps ont Of
tbssse AVID TAkes q Erlvc On the
APpfan Way.


Il is written in an eccentric, of-hand man
ner, and is very characteristic. We CIV,
.oine extracts below:
When a man from the far. far west, frcn
around the globe and comes first upon the
footprints Of the apostles, he is thrilled by .
sort u awe that nothing else can produce
He fe-ls somehow that he has come upon thu
col.hnes Of another world. better world am
fairer one, and be, for the dag at least, j,
better man for the fact.
/" You get tirtd Of Rome in month or two
in spite Of yourself-ruins and gllsries, tow
ers and churches three hundred and six.
ty-flye ct urches-if there had been more
days in the year there would have been NOR.
churches in Rom. land you want TO &c,
0utsids the great brick walls somewhere tc
rest. You are SORT Of anaconda that has ~
last swallowed an OK, and you wsnt to steal
away and lie down and dig,~ it,
$ had kept the Appian way as something
sacred, sort OF DESERT, TO be taken wien all
else had paled and grown duh
:" The road by which Saint Paul first en-
tersl Rome, and by which the Catholic ira
dition says Saint Peter attempted 10 escape
crucinxion in the Eternal city, still lay IN
der the msntle Of Imagination, and now, at
last when determined to leave Rome for lit
tie rest my chum and I-mychum for day, n
sonr one eyed old rufian; a reformed or per-
hap nnrsformed pirate n man whom had met
in Rome, and melted into ami liked because
he WINS so hated BY all others and so very
homely and plain with his big forked teeth
and hollow eyes-wcll, this man and | had
resolved to take a carriage an1 drive along
the Appian way to the first railway STATEN
On our way TO Naples.
We weI. cheerful over the prospect Of
doing little Gypsy business, tumbling over
grassy ,ombs Of the Caesars, picking a few
skulls by the wav and above all seeing this
road-the road Of all the roads that lead to
Rome-and so talked cheeIfulIy over the
matter at breakfast
This spoilt half he delights Of the day
The retired leather merchant Of New York
who sat with his family at taJie d hote look
cd up at his wife, and seeing no sign of
gathering storm, gently proposed that they
should make their way TO Naples in the same
manner and at the same time.
And so they dill.
9 1t bad not been go dreadful,y bad but
for that dreadfulIy bad boy Johnny. think
! know nearly all The leading and rising
.hoodlums Of San Francisco, but if there is
one among dem that can equal this boy
Johnny FRI, 70 New York, have not seen him
display his peculiar talent, to advantage.
We got out Of our carriages at the gate of
the Ialantine Hill, and walked to the top
through rows Of ruins, set we'll with all kinds
Of plante and trees, and particularly prickly
pears.
We patted the little she Welt on the head
gave her some Huts, and asked her about
Rsn'nlas and Remus; but she dropped her
bushy tail scratched in the crack Of the foor
for nut which she had dropped, mna pFeten-
sed no, t., bear. V~o 6 these wolves age
L.n, a. n. ~, Hic expcnss-sQe at the Cap
,oline Hill and this &c on the Palantine and
shabby, dirty, indolent loo--ins things they
are, to be sure. They are just The s,,'c'euiia
and color Of the California coyote
Nov we pass :.uier the great triumphal
arch OF Const antinc and have long leafy
ride through lane of elm,.
Peasants are spinning ropes Of fax TO
the right, and all along they come and go to
and from the city with great loads on their
heads, and often leading their little children
by the hand.
The uIns that lined this road have die
appeared. At one place You can pass
through the high stone wall for france and
see some Of the old jars of ashes; but there
is nothing to be seen from the carriage.
I'VE pass through the great stone wall Of
Rore, and are now in The vide, open Cam
,.rna--a slace that looks more ike bit of
the ere,, Am .Yian Jams than anything to be
seen ig. Europe. Away dow" Sohae' 70 '''
right, aud close up aganst this wall w '''
inside, and quite overlooking this vast SPLEEN
did plain is the grave Of Shelley. 1t is set
about with roses and shodowed by tall dark
trees. that see even now as | write.
riHp-shot away and further within the wall,
in lower and far less lovely spot, is the
grave of Keats, with its strange little tomb
stone, lifting up merely from among the flow
ers il. strange and sad inscription.
= Barefoded peasant girls, and beautiful
too as the red May roses, are going isto town
in Indian sic, vita handles Of wood and cane
on their heads A shoemaker sits in A,s
cottage door As ve pass, nth a half dozen
children at his knees aud he stops work to
look ut Johnny, who has set his thumb
against his nose and is wriggling his FIN
gers in the al in the direction of his mothz
CT.
You never cav so many shssrakers in
your LII, rs there are in Rome. At the
door of :,lmos. every house you enter there
sits u little dried up, srinkled old shoemak-
or. l. it not possible now, after all, that
this is why Rom. is called the City Of the
SouI!i
AT last we are on the most famous high
way Of all history. AM rafting away toward
Naples
The Appian way is dreadfnliy di'appoiai-
sg. II is not more than 30 or - sect wide
aud there is not shade tree to be seen
along the WY.
.on either hand life great walls, that
hide the gardens and the peasants at ther
labor. and but for the interesting relies which
compose these walls in part You would ind
but little to amuse you These wallis in
many places have been repaired, or we've or
iginally built Of broken rnaEble plaadered
from heaven knows what ruined city or pla
&c, for these Romans seems TO have had no
respect whatever for antiquity The great
Saint Peters church, TO. example, is built,
for tie most part Ell .. stones taken from
their most picturesque ruins.
''Feu will notice broken arm reaching
beipiessly out of this wall on the APpian way
n one place, as You pass, and IN another
You viii see a pretty cluster of flowers. A
part Of giant serpent is also to be seen,
sosg with hundred other fragments Of art
here he storing and time have laid bare the
Fough masonry of the wall