The Toledo chronicle. [volume] (Toledo, Tama County, Iowa) 1873-1924, 1874-10-15

OFENiNoS at tHe ieaQlnS millinery
r houses display large bonnets with thu
\ halo" brim surrounding the face, ant
comfortable crowns that really cover til,
! crown Of the head, and cling 50 CLOSELY
. that strings or elastic are almost super
4 fuous. Ladies have discovered there i.
: as much difference in the fit OF bonnet.
| as in that Of corsages or in the drapins
! OF skirts. In the present styles it is nee
f essary that the sides of the crown fl
snugly, as the projecting front or brin
$ does nothing toward securing the bonne,
. on the head. The halo" brim is fal
wider than that seen in the earliest i'm
{ portations; it is sometimes straight, anG
OF the same width all around, but il
most cases is accentuated to a. point
| either in front or on the left side Of the
front. Smoothly-covered crowns and
plainly piped brims, showing clear out
lines, promise to be more popular than
the soft-puffed crowns and pleatcd brims
shown early in the season. Simply
folded scarfs of gros grain, smooth cord
pipings on edges, and the most upright
loops are the trimmings that distinguish
stylish hats. The abundance Of flowers
used exceeds that of any previous sea
son, thirteen roses being counted in a
single French hat! Flowers are disposed
in clusters in front and back, while the
band of trimming passes around the
crown plainly on the right side, and ends
in upright loops on the left, or perhaps
just in front, forming base from be-
meath which the feathers spring. Short
tips and demi-long feathers are most
used; the long, sweeping plume is con
fined to the dressy Mercutio bonnet, and
Il even there is not permitted to interfere
with the compactness Of shape. Blue
jet is used very sparingly by the best
millincrs, and their prediction is that it
will not last through the season. The
black jet mania has reached climax,
and, pretty as it is, is likely soon to lose
favor through its commonness
i Milliners commend for general use
black velvet bonnets; for second best,
and to wear with wooden suits, felt hats
should be chosen; for special costumes
the bonnet should be made Of the velvet
and gros grain of the dress; for dress re-
ceptions, church weddings, the opera, etc,
the novelty is white trimmings on dark
velvet bonncts.
! To particularize The trimmings for
black velvet bonnets are jet, ostrich
feathers, flowers and gros grain--no
more fimsy twilled. silks and repped tur-
quoise that is partly cotton. The jet
trimmings are confined to black hats, and
the caprice is not for the heavy jet orna-
ments of last winter, the arrows, daggers
and buckles of faceted jet, but for jet
embroidery on the velvet or lace crown,
/ jet galloon bindings on brims, some
leaves Of lace dotted with jet, fringes of
jet, and perhaps single light vibrating
ornament made Of strung jet beads.
| Black or colOred ostrich-feather ruches
line the inside Of halo" brims; another
pretty face trimming for young ladies'
black velvet hats is soft, irregular putfs
of blue or rose faillc. The roses most
used are triple bunch two of deep
lemon color, with one dark cardinal red
rose, or else the colors are reversed;
there are also straight wreaths formed
entirely of crushed roses, pink, blush
and,tea roses, without foliage. An all
back bonnet for stately lady has the
velvet crown richly embroidered with
jet beads an inch-wide binding of jet gal
loon is on the brim, and a velvet bow on
the left has jet leaves in it. Two ostrich
tips with long fern leaves of jet begin at
the point of the brim and fall back on
the crown Price $50. For a young
blonde is a black velvet bonnet, with the
brim pointed slightly on the left side,
and covered with voluminous irregular
putting Of soft light blue faille. Velvet
loops and pale blue tips cover the crown.
Price $2S. Other very rich black velvet
bonnets Danish all jet, and have for face
trimmings putfs Of black gros grain on
one side, with scarlet and yellow rose
cluster on the other; short black ostrich
tips curl upward and backward from the
middle over the crown. Some very
| lovely bonnets Of black velvet have broad
"halo" brims coveredwith a full ruche OF
black, blue or pink ostrich feathers, IN
which cluster of tea-roses is set far
back on the left side.
Among felt hats those Of brown and
gray are found to be finer than the black
ones and more desirable every way. The
latest felt hats have the full feather
ruches just described to cover the inside
of the wide, flaring brim, while outside is
d hat band Of gros grain OF the color OF
the felt, some loops and long Mercutlo
plume, held bya crescent Of mixed NJ
agree silver and gilt. These are suitable
only for round, fresh young faces, and
they are marked $50. For those more
advanced in years are close-crowned
| fclts with rolled Rabagas brims, giving
regular bonnet shape. Brown is espe-
| cially stylish for such hats, and hand
some models are trimmed with mixed
| velvet and gros grain, wide bindings OF
velvet. a velvet hat-band, loops OF both
fabrics and topaz humming- birds show
ing their beautiful yellow bodies. Birds
and cocks feathers are the appropriate
| garniture, ostrich feathers and howers
being reserved for velvet bonnets.
Among colored velvet bonnets the
seal-skin brown, very dark with a faint
reddish tinge, prevails, yet all dark shades
lust removed from black are shown. The
trimming is invariably gros gram OF the
same shade, with flowers in contrast or
to match in color as fancy dictates. One
Of the new and unique combinations is a
velvet of deepest myrtle green trimmed
with lemon -colored ostrich tips and oak
leaves with yellow brown acorns Yet,
for variety's sake, just beside this bon
Inetswas another in monotone OF blue
! gray velvet with all its made-up trim
mings Of the same velvet and for orna-
ment some afay leaves and grapes and a
aone Mercutio feather Of lighter blue
gray. The seal brown velvet bonnets
permit many shades for garniture and
| look equally well with pale pink roses,
Isabella yellow or dark Agrippina red
roses; light blue ostrich tips, fiesh-like
pink plumes, and, finally. the distin-
gS;shed white trimmings are used upon
them.
This brings us to reception bonnets.
The latest French fancy is to make these
Z Su - g u " an