National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-09-23
LADIES' FASHIONS.

Fresh importations give further hints about
dresses. New Partisan suits have simpler aprons,
larger tournures, and shorter skirts than those at
present in vogue here, as will be seen when i'm
ported dresses appear on the street. The fancy
for dressing the neck very high and deliberately,
for wearing almost tight sleeves, and of using
belts with all dresses, prevails abroad as we'll as
here. The cuirass is worn with all costumes, from
the plainest to the richest. 1t may have either
the French or English back, but has no pOstilIion
pleats, and is deeper than ordinary bssques. Its
trimmings as nat as possible, and usually fol-
low its outlines.
There is also fancy for trimming it down the
middle of the back with a sIOping piece Of the
trimming that tapers at the waist and widens
below it. The front is frequently entirely plain,
and the neck has always a collar, usually stand
ing and haring, though some of the newest dresses
have turRed-dOWn collars pointed behind. The
sleeves are tight-ftting, without much cuff, and
that always shaped closely to the arm. Sleeves
most often are of different material from that Of
the basque, thus giving the cuirass effect.
Shoulder seams are exceedingly short, conse-
quently the upper part Of the coat sleeve is
rounded out very high on the arm. Black silk
cuirasses have jetted else velvet sleeves; black
velvet cuirasses have sleeves Of silk or else of
almost entire jet surface; black cashmere cuiras-
ses have silk sleeves stripped or embroidered
with jet, or with the Titan mohair braid.
Oyerskirts are in great variety Of shape. but
usually retain an apron front, and in many cases
are merely aprons. The French aprons are often
shorter than those worn here. The variety is
given by the back drapery, which is often laid in
pleats, or hangs in two straight fiat tabs. The
conspicuous feature in lower skirts is the use of
the treble or quadruple box-pleat, extending the
whole length Of the back breadths, and indeed,
formed of those breadths. This large Vatican
MI fe " Iinad thin IN hold
it in place, and is further secured by tapes seWed
across underneath. This is a new and very pretty
substitute for the rows Of fOunces that were form
erly placed across back breadths when the upper
skirt is merely an apron. Two or three large
bows, with dropping loops made of the double
silk Of the trimming, are placed down this pleat.
The best illustration yet given Of this pleated
skirt is on page 5S2 Of BG=Gr No. 50; cut paper
pattern Of it will soon be published. When worn
over q Pompadour hustle the effect Of this how-
ing drapery is very good. Many dresses designed
to be worn with the long and comfortable clOaks
to be revived this winter have tablier trimming
and this Vatican pleat, and thus dispense with
a separate overskirt. Flounces are held by many
rows Of stirring, notwithstanding the prevalence
of thick materials. They are bias when gathered
and straight when pleated. The lower edge of
gathered bias fiounces is finished with knife
pleating, or with French hem, or else with
founces; the latter plan is on plain and ele-
giant dresses alike. good deal of reversed plsat-
ing is again used on black silk skirts.
POPULAR WOOL SUITS.
The popular suit for general street wear, shop.
ping and travelling will be of fine all-WoOl goods,
rather than of silk, though there are still many
combinations of wool stuHs with silk. For sucn
suits plaids will doubtless be the faVorite choice
as they are shown at the best houses, and ladies
begin to tire of plain fabrics and solid coIors.
These plaids are not the tartans Of Scotland,
bright with every hue Of the rainbow, but are
more like the indistinct English plaid stufs worn
by gentlemen. They are Of the quietest colOrs,
showing two or three shades Of brown or Of gray;
there are also blue and occasionally scarlet lines
Frightening these sombre plaids for young ladies'
dresses, and hint Of this color is seen in the
trimming.
These designs are chosen in tweeds and rough
finished goods Of English and Scotch appearance,
though manufactured in France. There are also
imported suits Of the irregular striped stufs de-
scrfbed last week. These are considered espe-
ciaIIy Stylish and are very soft and warm, though
uneomfortabiy heavy when made with pIeated
skirts. PLAZA wool fabric, or else silk Of the
color Of stripes or bars is associated with plaid
and striped stufs in each costume.
TITAN BRAID.
A great deal OF wooden braid is used for trim.
ming plaid and striped wool suits, black alpacl
suits, cashmere, camel's-har cloth, and even vel
vet. This is a very heavy braid, known last year
as cameTs-hair braid, and is sold for 20 cents
yard when an inch wide.
RICH DRESSES.
The rich dresses imported for carriage and viz
iting toilettes are of faille and velvet combined,
and the novel idea of this season is to add third
material, viz, matelasse silk. Those elegant
costumes are of the darkest shades Of pure blue,
nut brown mouse gray, myrtle green, or te de vin,
fms tead Of the uncertain and nondescrpt hues
lately in vogue. Instead Of using two extreme
shades or three shades I'm cameo designs, tinting
is now graded by using different materials of the
same shade.
THE cUIRAss PoLoNAIsE.
Polonaises of eamel's hair are shown In the
Marguerite shape, but hanging quite loosely,