National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-02-13
&atiauaI &epnblifau.
LACE&.
THE NEW STYLES-HOw TO KEEP AND
CLEAN LACES

THE NEW sTYLEs-How TO KEEP AND
CLEAN LACES.
with the growing demand for laces, says tho
new York World, and for such variety Of
uses the supply has como in all kinds and quail
nies. 80 that those who have given little
thought and attention to the matter are not
Always able to decide IL this or that kind ID de-
s"soie ior this or that use, which makes It con-
venen' - Wen a. interesting to know some
thing of this fabric.
ROM lace, the old point, bit Of which, with
ifs conceptions Of graceful forms and tasteful
combinations, is source of pride and pleasure
to its owner If she Is a connoisseur in this kind
Of art production, Is, as perhaps she NAV not
be aware, the Oldest lace known, unless, in
deed, Il excepted the Church lace, of which 70
much has been heard and 50 little seen, the art
Of which is said to have been lost with the ago
that gave It birth, for the sole purpose oftrim-
ming the vcstments Of the priests.
The old point was the work Of nuns in the
latter part of the fourteenth and the beginning
Of the fifteenth centuries. This lace is very
Characteristic, and Is truly placed as woman's
production on . parallel with the decorative
works In stone, wood and metals Of the monks.
Its wonderful durability Is attested by the
TACT that It Is not uncommon even now, among
very choice selections, though the method Of
making It was forgotten rs carly Is the first Of
the sixteenth century, when more easily made
and consequently cheaper style Of fabric was
The lace of this second period, which ID the
point lace more generally used now, though
49, E-1 l. LA L l.
purity Of design which marked the old artistic
kind, that seemed to carry out an original
fancy and not . mere copy of some pattern.
One would naturally conclude that an art
depending SO much on Individual skin and taste
would be liable to vary exceedingly; neverthe-
less, 1t is a fact that all the kinds are quickly
placed into q few well-marked groups under
three distinct classes.
Guipure, which comprises all true needle
work, whether ancient or modern, ranks first
with its varieties of rose point, in which tho
figures are In high relief, having q rich EN-.
bossed appearance. Point Venetian, point
Portuguese, point Maltese, in all of these the
pattern Is fiatteH than in the rose point d'Alen-
con and Brussels. These last two are still
m beauty and value to that of one hundred
years ago.
The second class is known as the cushion or
bobbin lace, In which the threads of the bob
bins are twisted or plated around the pins
which hold the patterns SO as to form the net
work arrangement which characterizes this
division, under which comes the Spanish, Brus-
sells, Mechlin, Valenciennes, Dutch, Isle,
Chantilly, silk and cotton blond, Limerick and
Honiton, which last has of late years been the
most beautiful of all the varieties made in
Great Britain.
The third class is the machine made. This,
by It's rapid improvement and wonderful devel-
opment, has worked complete revolution in
the lace trade, moderating the prices Of home
made, and bringing within the reach of all
beautiful and inexpensive lace.
While all these kinds are more or less use1,
Velenciennes and point applique are unques-
tionably the popular kinds; the former, though
worn by all ages, from its light and airy effect,
is considered especially appropriate for young
misses and children, while the other is worn
by young, middle-aged and elderly ladies. It
Is noticeable, however, that those who are able
to satisfy their faneies very much esteem old
laces before modern productions. Such heavy
laces rs point de Venise, binche and point
fArgenton, which formerly were seen only as
trimmings on the richest of silks and ve!vets,
are now worn with toilets of thin texture, and
even on ball dresses.
French lace is being made to initiate the
more expensive thread so perfectly that it is
found on elaborate black silk dresses as well
as on velvet cloaks, while ladies who are even
more economically inclined are using for trim
ming cashmeres, bgOOnes and other worsted
goods, the Vac and Cluny laces instead of the
guipure.
A novelty in walls is presented in the long
Spanish net scarfs, which are made to serve q
double purpose by covering the face with the
centre of the same, while the sides are caught
back and fastened to the hat or bonnet with
the usual vail pin. Without being crossed, the
ends are brought forward under the chin and
thrown about the neck, where they lie in an
easy, careless manner, pleasant to see. The
net has large figures of dropping leaves or
clusters Of flowers which, after finding through
these designs q thin space for the eyes, veil
and almost conceal the features. A new net,
dotted closely with the finest of lot beads,
made and worn In the usual styles, is also in
troduced.
For brides the plain silk tulle of three and
four yards In length, with corners rounded at
in place by one, two, three, and sometimes
more satin cords, Is ordered almost exclu-
sively.
The unlimited variety of articles in way of
decorations for the neck is something really
wonderful. Ruffs of every description and ma
terial; jabOts, from the quiet bow of ribbon
and inexpensive lace to those masterpieces in
fabrics, with touches of delicate, harmonious
colors here and there laying over the front Of
the corsage and sometimes reaching to the
waist, give every lady an opportunity of graft
flying the simplest or most fastidious of tastes.
In addition to the styles already so well known
Is the revival of the white muslin tie with q
finish of lace ends, and the ruffies with their
dotted edges in colored chenilles and silks.
The fichus, or cape, as they are now called,
differ little, If any, from those worn earlier in
the season. A tendency to abolish the long
graceful ends and wear only those which cross
and fasten at the waist behind is noticeable.
Scarfs in large figured nets, worn in the same
manner as the capes, are in high favor.
The deep founces FOR overskirts and rufies
to evening dresses are made in exquisite de-
signs both in real and machine lace. In con-
sheraton of its good imitation and compara-
tive cheapness, the latter Is oftener seen than
the rare old lace.
OF all the articles of her toilet, there is per-
haps no one thing so invested with associations
and sentiment as lady's handkerchief surely
none to which she gives more solicitous atten-
ton in selecting and care in using. But mere
bit of caPbric and lace, 1t Is expected that the
web of point lace, or point de Venise, or Honi-
ton, or Valenciennes, or whatever the fancy or
purse of the wearer may suggest, will be of the
best and finest of its kind. While all varieties
Of lace are admirable, the shape Of the hand
kerchief must be square, with or without
clipped corners.
AT al reuaDie pfaceS Wnefe rare ana expen-
i've laces are sold, recommendations are given
10 lace cleaners, to whom It is always wise to
send any valuable piece that may need redress
ing or mending, as q practical adept In the
business will return the same fresh and beauti-
full As new.
For the machine laces, or those not sufYf-
GENTLY valuable to justify the expense attend
ing the services of professional cleaner, there
are many receipts given for bleaching and re-
storing the color. The simple ones usually
bring us the most satisfactory results.
For cleaning white lace, wash and rinse
yently through two or three changes of .
strong suds of soft warm water and fine toilet
,oap; after pressing as dry as possible with the
hands, patiently pat and pull the same In shape,
,eing careful to put each little point and figure
n place, until almost dry, then fold and lay be-
:ween heavy books.
For removing folds and creases in either
vhite or black lace, wind the same closely
ound glass bottle. Amer fastening the
nds, 20 that the lace viii remain firm, hold It
yer . steam from clear water until thoroughly
amp, then pull through the fingers, and dry
nd press Il In the same manner as above sug-
ested.
For restoring the color to black lace hich
~ worn brown and rusty wash in beer or hard
der, after which straighten II out and care
llly pin down on some plain surface, to remain
ntl dry.