The Stark County Democrat. [volume] (Canton, Ohio) 1833-1912, 1874-09-03
LnELANDTc EXPERIENCES.


REKIAvIK August Ill can scarcely continue
TO give a whereat record Of events, for In place
80 remote and original In It's character, everything
that happens seems to bear certain stamp OF In
terest. If you step on blossom, It may be an
arctic plant unknown elsewhere; II a bird flies
overhead, II Is probably an elder duck If boy
speaks in the street, he may use words made ven
erable in the Eddas of samund and snorre stur-
lusson. Isolation separate development, preya
lenee Of elements that have perished In other
lands, make Iceland a study by itself Scarcely
anything have learned in former travel, even in
Sweden and Norway, explains the features of life
here. Anchored in the middle of the Northern
Ocean, between two continents, theisland belongs
very slightly to either. But the simplest form Of
narration, after all, Is the truest and know no
better plan than to give the events and impress
sons Of our days in the exact order in which they
' come to us. Yesterday, for instance furnishedus
with different stock, and, inasmuch as there Is
no further public ceremony until Sunday, we let
ourselves comfortably drift along the current Of
chances, apprOpratng no hour In advance
The sweep Of mountain shores inclosing the
northern extremity Of the Faxa Fiord and the In
land ranges have been gradually growing into
form since our arrival, and almost every hour
brings out some unexpected feature. To-day, the
panorama Is surprising sixy-fye miles to the
west, floating on the sea like an iceberg, shines
the unbroken white mass of the SOmeiells Tokull.
Northward of him the land disappears, to emerge
again in sharp blue peaks, which are oyerlapped
by higher and nearer promontories, until, across
the last blight of the ford the bare mountains
show every gulley and ravine, every streak of
snow, patch of pale green herbage or purple vol
eanic rock Sun and shadow, ever in motion over
their sides, make continual and exquisite changes
of color. Inland, there Is the greatest variety of
outline, from the turfy shores to the horns, peaks
and rampartllke ridges In the distance. The air
Is wonderfully clear sothat the tints of the great
panorama-which has a sweep of over hundred
mIlls-are marked by the greatest possible deli
Aacy and purity Without being deep and glow
ing as in the South, they eyproduce almost thesamc
effect and there are moments when one can only
think of the Mediterranean and the Grecan Arch
ipelago.
We spent yesterday morning on shore. The sail
Ors filed our water casks at the town pump, some
of the party bought elder-down or photographs
Others paid further visits of ceremony. Captain
Howling, proposing to take stones from the near
est harbor island as ballast, was quite taken aback
BY the refusal Of the proprietor TO- oallow any por
tion Of his volcanic real estate to be carried away
The reason given was that the island would be
gradually diminished In size, Rndfumish 80 much
the less brodding ground fCf elder ducks. These
selfsacrihcing birds make their nests almost in
the ouskirts of RejkaVik. They are protectedby
law, and show no feAr, of men.
Icalled upon the French Consul and his family,
and the Chief Justice Of Iceland, finding aseyery-
where else, intelligence, refinement, and a most
kindly hospitality. The young ladies spoke Eng
slGh and French with huency. The long winter,
during which no steamer comes from Denmark,
and the rest Of the world has no practical exist
ence for them, Is devoted to reading and study,
and they thus fully keep pace with their sisters in
other lands.
In the afternoon, the Captain proposed boat
excursion to 3 hot spring near the shore, mileor
two from the town. and three of us joined him.
On the way We called on the German fngate Nj
ODE, To whose arst officer, Capt.-Leut. Won schro-
der, 1 had been commended by his friends in En-
furt and Gotha The vessel of stanch old English
build, is used as a training-ship for cadets, of
whom there are at present thirty-ive on board.
Our reception by all the officers was so hearty that
1t could only terminate in mutual invitations to
lunch and dinner Officers of the army Gre PROV
erbally strictly national officers of the navy cos
mopolitan; but should be glad If our gentlemen
of the latter estate we're able speak to visitors,
in foreign port, in their own language, as every
one of these was and to discuss literature and art
as eagerly and intelligently as oldHaditonsof the
erVice. Lro. hH
We pushed off at last, hoisting sail and swiftly
ran along the coast seeking for the embouchure
of river, which is fed from the hot springs, The
wind enabled us to skirt the rough basaltie shore
closely, without much danger of staving in the
bottom Of our little craft, butwe failed to detect
the exact point There was twostory house Of
stone ON a broad headlaud; severalboys on ponies
came dashing down the green slope behind it and
a group Of childrun al little cove seemed to
watch our movements with much interest. We
found, too late, thatthey were beacony 20 the en-
trance of the Hot River. Our only profit from the
trip was the sight of an enormous seal-it could
hardly have been less than l2 feet in length
which every now md then popped up It's huge,
stupid head behind us. After q dance of nearly
two hours over the rough waves, we were glad to
return and leave ths hot springs lfrom which
Rejkiavik (the smoking or steaming harbor) Is
said 10 derive Its name. }Ati'' t'Y
Our visits on shore have been continued to-day.
They are always agreeable, but 50 much alike in
1m Of reception heartiness Of welcome, and
even the material featured Of the residences, that
HR scarcely Necessary 10 describe them In success
sion. The best houses in the town are very much
alike in structure and internal arrangement
There Is usually a little hall or anteroom, about
IarRe enough to pull of an oveTcoat in, then the
study or reoephon-room Of the owner, according
to his profession, and beyond 1t the salon where
the ladies receive their guests White curtains,
pots Of flowers IN the Windows, carpet on the
door, a sofa, center-table with books and photo
Rraphs ana pictures on the walls, are the invaria
bic featnses Of this apartment; and in spite Of he
lovness of the ceiling and other primitive archi-
tectural characteristics, It is always cheerful,
bright and agreeable. Rocking-chaiH are not
uncommon, and the gnest easily fOrgets both lati-
tude and locality as he looks out upon currant-
bushes and pOtato.plants while cOnyersing witha
grave, earnsStfaced young lady upon shakespeare,
German literature, or the latest music.
The common people-if one has a right to use
the word common" in referring to such people
ARE still something OF puzzle to me. Except
among our Indian tribes ] never saw such stoical,
Indifferent faces. They watch rs with curiosity
which is intense, but never obtFusiye, yet when
attempt to make a nearer acquaintance through
the medium of Danish they are shy and shrinking
to such an extent that they do not attempt to con-
ceal it. The average stature is short, not above
five feet six inches complexion Of a coarse ruddy
brown, hair generally blond and straight eyes
blue or gray, body broad, short and compact with
short, sturdy limbs, large hands and ieetin fact,
ageneraI aspect of rough tigor, but also Of some
thing more than that What this something may
be 1t will be my task to discover when we go into
the interior Of the island. nix ~.
This morning Some Of our party took ponitsand
rode out to the Laxa, or Salmon River, about four
miles from here. Mr. Thomsen, a very enterpris-
and otdieirir merchant who supplies our YES