, 1874-07-26

We will not dine to-day at m; Of ths v7.,.
Anglo-Roman caravsnserais Though It il.
"Ansleterre," by the by, ne should prob,b.
meet boar's head, served with : most psr{a4t
sweot-acld sauce, containing alI sorts Of ri
berries, . sauce which is among the hidden M
| terles OF the house, known only to tha spnrm.
! ctef) J, but to-day We will visit real Rom.n ~.
taurant, where ~e shall meet real Romans, ,oi
being at Rome dine as Rome doeA Through NJ
merous by-lanes and alleys. none Of the clsaneh
! gel'to," where dinner has already ben
ordered by tho kindlieat of triepts
and the sasest Of caterers, signor &.
! well known to old habitues OF the Eternal C,7..
man who IN his early life hss known stola1
days, has known the inside OF Papal prison u
consequence of what he termed lstle political
ohen4e, scheme in which certain other poll-
claus joined, to blow up the Chamber Of Gu.
d1nals, has aloo known the agony OF being kses
fourteen days without water, punishment il.
dicted upon him in this Same Papa prison fox
hurhng bis Watering at ~ oily eccleslaatic rhp
tempted him By the promise OF filthy luc1e to b.
tray his associates; but when last saw him il
ripo old age, lie was bright and sunny, aud bad
Tor years relinquished these little political o.
fenses 10 favor Of younger men.
But let us see what dlLner ho has crdered
Firs appear, rs drdnt-courlers, caviare, oiEeA,
thin slices Of ham and sausage; then dish to
be often dreampt Of, maccaroui cooked in sub
those ugly flah wo have seen in the market b1t
now stuffed with an exquisite pudding and sasyed
with sduco ble4e auI huitres; then appear
red mulet, grilled; but the next dish ms1es us
trembla, for We recognize the snaks~like feelers
Of our friend the cutt1e-6sh. We overcome the
weakness Of shrinking humanity and taate Well
that We do! for it turns out to be ths curl
GUS plat, Tie tour de force Of the evening. bJ
careful slowing, this strange creature has been
reduced to delightful suceulent gelatinous
mass, and, favored with al sorLs Of spices and
savorv herbs, it earns our highest approval. IN
interlude follows Of xuftes on toast And thea
q dleh OF laccia, smau 'sh not unlike our
whitebait. served cold in delicious preparation
in which oil largely predominates. Woodcoeks
and ortolaDs close the feast, in which tha atten-
tive reader will nota that no tiesh- meat is sered
yet all alike manifested the feeling Of Thorough
after-dinner conteul.
Now that monster aquaria are coming into
vogue, why should not the sspia be largely bred
and stowed cuttle-6sh become dainty easily ~
tainablo at English tables? Nay, even his for
midable brother the octopus, il executed lnstaa-
taueously by insertion in pot OF boiling water
(so that between him and tbs cook there might
be no such terrific encounter as that Vhca
Victor Hugo has described aud then stsved
slowly and carefully for hours in properly.
prepared liquor, would probably turn out
delicacy of the highest order. Let the two grcs:
curators seriously consider the matter. Let
them enter on q friendly contest rs to FhlcR
shall produce the mora perfect dish, bearing in
mind that the results will be known heroaftaf -
Octopus Ia Crystal Palace and Octopus A
Brighton.
1t the "Falcone," another OF the purely
Roman inns, we, on another occasion, met Tth
= thick soup composed OF sea- -snais, mussolz,
whelks. and other molluscs. which deserved, ant
met with careful consideration and loud
There, too, the cgfato, which
without high art would be nearly worthless, Tas
most palatable. In fact the great
Of the Roman cuisias are in respect Of
dsh; for although, save the red mulet,
scarcely fish that swlns in Roman wate1s would
prove attractive if simply boiled or flied, under
the careful manipulation Of the caef il becomes
altogether = transformed and elevated creature"
In Southern Italy there arc indeed tHo mag
uifcent fishes which call for no such artstlc ~
terference. The funny and the snord-hsh-the
former constant aud the latter BY no meansa
arc visitor At the tables dhole Of Messlna IN tno
'easou-are beat cooked plain, and served fna
Ill or clarified butter. They are alnllas IN ~
3ea1ance, are firm a. salmon, and their nean
II dark saffron nue.. The Bword-fsh. ho"eEe;'
3 tho more delicate and the more hleh&J tafo1sa
-ErdSer's Magazine