New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1874-05-09

sisted at intervals by chorus OF pigs so hendsh as
to excite the Indignation of a neighboune WHICH
dog. If there he any noise more unearthly thah tue
braying of a donkey / have yet to hear II.
The shrill yell of an ill-tempered locomotive
is a penny whistle by comparison. There Is so much
more bray than there is donkey that the human lu
teect becomes hOpelessy bewildered IN endeaNor-
ing to solve the mystery. Lost in It's cayerhous
depths, had totally forgotten bandits, when tne
Blinkers tenor voice piped forth the fact that II
was o'clock in the morning, and would please
remember the omnibus started III fifteen minutes
For the first time dressed by the light of matches
"a performance requiring considerable sieignt u
hand. Having nearly set tire to myself by holding
them in my fingers, / finally stacked them
as soldiers stack bayonets, and completed an
original toilet. felt one-sided for "a hours linen
igniting the matchbox, Illuminated my way down
precipitate stone steps into the omnibus.
What strange drive it wasl Beyond the Posada
everything asleep but the stars that still heiu
their vgis yet blinked more frequently, tanciea'
as if quite ready to be relieved Not vehicle
passed us but ever and anon stopped at solitary
houses where we evidently were expected, for men
came out with lanterns, handed small bundles to the
driver talked in low tone, and off we went again.
without additional passengers. This is very
L
pie know we should pass before daylight The
regular hour of departure from Pampeluna Is :"
o'clock Yet people are up and waiting for U.S.
Madam" replied the Blinker DO You suppose 1t
would pay 10 run this omnibus from Pampeluna 70
BavOnne for two passengers Not at all II carries
contraband goods, and the men who supply the
bundles are smugglers. The drivers know how 10
manage They are great friends with the frontier
officers
Twas conserving with smuggers The sensation
was novel. and began to feel like the heroine IN
meodrama who innocently assists at the plotting
Of the heavy villains. When We next stopped
left the vehicle inspect the smugglers, and found
them no wOrse-looking than other people, one OF
them being so polite as TO drink my health IN the
cognac l had refused. On learning my nationality
he declared he should go 10 my country, for spain
was growing so poor that an honest man couldn't
live even by stealing. Was Mr.. Smuggler RepuD-
licanl Mr. Smuggler laughed. Ny politics are
little of all ian POGO de Odas. This YOU see, Il very
convenient Whichever party comes mp agree
with, and so l keep my temper and make money
whenever l get a chance | never saw happier
looking man than Mr. Smugger 1t Is a great mis-
take 10 think that good people are the most light
hearted and cOntented. They are bothered by con-
science and worried about everlasting salvation.
enough 10 escape detection.
At dawn, third passenger joined us, a Spaniard
looking very cross, and quite as cross as he looked
did not blame him, for the only time he opened
his mouth he informed us that he was being ruined
by the civil war. I've been in the habit Of carry
ing grain into France. I've horses and wagons for
the purpose. Now my trade is completely ruined.
Ii attempt to cross the frontier the Carlists seize
my grain. I'm going to Bayonne to tell the mer-
chants | must give up business After this out
burst the retiring trader gared savagely at nothing
in particular. OF course | inquired anxously about
his political creed and was answered thus: Il
am tired Of civil war. People Of the
industrial classes are desperate Wen ac-
cept any government that restores ORDER
As the morning grew older the scenery became
less mouotOnous, such as could be through the
dust and peasants of both sexes were occasionally
passed or overtaken. All of them seemed TO be in
timately acquainted with the driver who, when the
pedestrians We're going our way, slackened his
speed sufficiently for them to dash into the
omnibus and take boisterOus possession OF the
vacant seats The younger men stood on the steps ana
while embracing the door pulled tobacco smoke IN
nv face none of these mpr0mptu passengers
ever paid a real. They bounced out as unceremo-
niousv as they dashed in screamed at the driver as
long as lie was within ear-shot and appeared TO be
As happy as though they read and wrote and attended
lectures once Week.
Soon began the ascent OF the Spanish Pyrenees,
that noble mountain range dividing the Peninsula
from France. What happy hits Nature makes IN
her boundaries. They are absolute Inspirations
With the Pvrenees came little old towns, the houses
of which were adorned with imposing armorial
hearings. last remnants Of the old aristocratic
vanity. Entering the beautiful Valley Of Baztan
we passed over historic ground. Here in 1913 the
French and English fought hand TO hand here IN
1924 Don Carlos the Pretender penetrated into
Spain; here tive years later, he retired into France
and here to-davs Carlists at sweet VIII, doing
what they please merely because nobody tells them
they shall not. They axe IN their strong
hold. Always independent, always forming
\ snecies of republic, this Basque province
has ever preserved its hatred OF Spanish
Capitalization q hatred Carlism knows well how to
turn 10 account. Baztan is but a tTansposiuon OF
The BASQUE word ba.nai. signifying ' am alone
true expression OF its peoples dominant character
istic. They are alone too in the beauty OF their
Landscape With a tall mountain range on the nght
with superb carriage road winding round 1t, with
q rich laughing valley below, these fierce egotsts
need only look ont of .her windows to view such
scenery a. less favored mortals journey hundreds OF
miles 70 behold. some day when they have sense
epough 10 appreciate the advantages Of reading anu
writing Spanish and prefer TO be part OF nation TO
tbe whole of province these Baztanians viii repu-
diote Cariism. That time has not yet come.
We were approaching the frontier and began to
he neryons about Carlists 99t from isar OF weeing
them. but from fear OF the reverse. Ever on me
watch for the enemy, vet failed TO notice pedes-
trian until he had lightly trpped into the omnibus
and seatedl himself opposite me. He was young
cood-lookine. obstiratejust such a fellow as a the
..,o,.,,or would prige leader OF Il super-