National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1874-11-04
FASHIONS.
NOVELTIES ron srRErr SUITS.

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Of French dresses is that Of using Sielenne cloth
for trimming rich Woolen suits Of camels hair, or
the rough striped Amousines 90 popular with
young ladies. The Siellienne is As richly repped
as the handsomest gros grains, and Is far more
flexible. 1t IL chosen Of the prevailing color
Of the wool goods, and used for sleeves hounces
and pipings. For instance, stylish, gray limou-
sine with irregular stripes should have 3 skirt OF
walking length Of the wool goods with breadth
Of gray Sicilienne sbirTed In points down the
/ front from belt TO toe q box-pleated SlcllIenne
fOunce, showing facings of Limousine, borders the
skirt. The upper skirt (seWed IN with the belt Of
the loWer) is Of Limousine attached to the SIcil-
ienne front, draped high on the sides and hang
| ing low behind. The basque is Of striped wool,
with long slOped pieces Ofths sleilienne in back
and front; Sioiiienne sleeves collar, and bow ct
| the extreme end Of the basque. Smooth dark
tortoiseshell buttons shouldc0mplete this stylish
| costume for young lady.
PLEATED BAsoUEs.
The side-pleated basques 80 easily made that
/ ladies make them at home are now seen on many
| handsome suits Of eameis hair and silk. Plaid,
pleated waist and overskirt, while the sleeves
| and lower skirt are silk Shaded brown and gray
plaids are usually associated with brown or black
silks, but the stylish Innovation is 70 use bottle
green, navy blue, or violet silks for this purpose
The long basque has eight side pleats in front
and back, and is finished on the edge Vith thick
cord Of green silk. The green silk sleeves have
three bias bands Of plaid around the wrist, also
silk outside and plain within. The deep over
skirt Is merely corded with green. The lower
skirt has two side pleatings for trimming. A
green silk belt Is worn around the waist, and q
green silk bow at the throat. The fine lingerie Is
hem.stitehed; tbs hat is eeru felt with dark green
cocks plumesi and gloves Of undressed kid CON-
plete one Of the most tasteful yet plain and SIM
pie toilettes seen on Fifth avenue this season.
CASHMERE OVER GARMENTS.
More dressy black cashmere garments are
ano eeep aprons Win sT9s grain sashes
imported, from Sl25 to sI75.
The newest drap d'ete mantles are simple round
waist. They are almost covered With let EN- broid-
cry wrought in lines that extend from the collar
down, and are bordered with band OF ostrich
ieathers ana Jet fringe or else thread lace.
HOW TO TRIM APRON FRONTS.
The long apron fronts Of over-skirls are now the
objective points Of trimming. There Is = fancy
toa un LING NEE aprons WIN three curved or
three aprons Black cashmere overskfrts have
three rows Of jet fringe headed by passementerie
equal tiers. Plidn colored camel's hair aprons
have three bias bands Of plaid curved across
ne a laoies are especially pleased with
those with very long waists, use perpendicular
rows Of jet GALLON on the apron to give the ap-
pearanee OF greater length below the waist.
Very slender figures use the triple apron which
is three short aprons overlapping each other
edged With tringed, and draPcd or festOoned
those who are too stout Is 70 have I'VE bias bands
Of velvet sowed down the front breadths Of the
lower skirt from the belt to the founce at the
foot and thus dispense with separate apron.
RICHER DRESSES.
For the garniture Of rich black silk dressest take
this model lust brought from Paris The demi-
Train has diagonal tablieT, beginning high on
second side gore. This tablier at the top consists
Of four unturned large loose pleats Of SIX, below
which is the rich fern-leaf Jet passementerie and I
. broad row Of exceedingly nne side pleating be-
low ibis the passementerte and side pleating are
repeated. a retieule pocket, upright plesting, |
that is left plain on the LEFT side. Around the
foot are two bias shirred rules six inches vide,
with the upper one caught down as puff A \
bouffant effect Is given the back breadths by two
separate widths Of silk, each a yard and a half
long, being folded in easy plests and loosely
English cuirass, Withthe pretty addition Of deep
cluster Of very fne knife pleating introduced at
back. The close coat sleeves have knife-pieat
ed mill, headed by . shrred rufie Of six rows Of
gathering extremely close togetheri above this
sementerie Is laid A cluster Of eight FmaIl folds
edged with jet fringe, passes around the neck Be.
low the collar, and Is met By . bow In 'front.'.
sLEEvKs, PUPS, ETC.
LeDgthEise trimmings on sleeves are found on
many Imported dresses, but will not be generally
used, as they are unbeeominR 70 long, thin arms
Puts are greatly used as headings OF hounces
IN many cases they are shirred with many rows
OF gathering, but as this catches dust and Is not
suitable for heavy fabrics; single puff, four or
uN6 luGue1 Mluos QIdMu on q cora Win q narrow
tIill at each edge, is more generally used. When
there IL frill at each side the pun must not droop
and should be very full.
by deep kilt pleating that Is finished on The |
lower edge wife kniie pleatiDg three or four
inches deep.
BoHNETs.
Syringa IS the appropriate name given to the
used on black ard dark-colored velvet bonnets |
for receptions and the opera. The novel idea is |
to use this syrnga faille to form scarf strings |
that cross behind the neck, pass round it. and are
fastened in front in the way white tulle is now /
worn; These two strings are each yard long, |
and three sixteenths Of yard wide with the raw |
edges raveled slightly to form fringe. There are
also embossed and fringed searfs Of white, and |
eolors used for trimming velvet bonnets. A seal |
Corday crown extended 10 form q cape; syrinWa |
facings are in the rilled 'front.' and the long scarf
strings are Of the same white gros grain. A CON-
pact and distinguished looking hat Of black vel |
vet has the white scarf around the crown edged |
with Yaleneiennes lace. soft-petaled pink
rese droops at the back, and black plume
sweeps over the crown. Another black velvet |
with stylish white rarniture has cap crown,
with the ruined front lined with syringa faille |
and crepe lisse pleating; single white rose with
clustered leaves 10 in 'front.' and two white ostrich
tips trim the crowns strings Of black velvet. A |
deep marine blue velvet has two white tips in |
front and pendent white rose behind. The halo |
brim Is faced with white gros grain, deep blue /
bow is placed on the brim, and the scarf strings
The most youthfui-looking black velvet bonnets
for general wear have hariDg halo brims turned
straight up around the head, hsring outward, /
and adorned in front with rose cluster, or else
velvet bow. A roll Of black velvet or eolored |
velvet clngng closely to the head Is placed under
these haring brims. Cardinal and clear blue are /
most used for velvet rolls and bows on black vel
vet hats. Ladies who make their own hats should /
buy this halo-brim shape, and cover It all, both
brim and crown, as smoothly as possible, with /
black velvet. Then fold bias black gros grain
earelessly around the crown, with perhaps loop /
or two Just behind or on the len side but the out
line and compaetness Of shape must not be de-
stroyed. Two short ostrich feathers begin d.
feetly in front, just behind the brim, aud fall
back on the crown. A roll OF velvet and gros
grain twisted together Is sewed Just below the
brim, and clasps the head. Thus far the hat Is
all black, but variety can be given by placing
Just in front the rose clusters or bows already
mentioned. Milliners charge go for such
bonnet.
Halfmourning bonnets are Of heaYiIy-repped
black, made with the prevailing halo brim, though
with soft crowns A jet ornament Is laid on the
bow that trims the middle Of the front, and short
black plumes start from beneath this bow and
curve backward amidst the careless puffs Of the
crown Price, S22-HarPeT's BGzGT.
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