Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-01-10
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
wkpDIsG DRESSES.


marriage. Soft dun faille dresses are pre-
TERED 10 those of glossy satin. The trains are
not long, though something more than demi-
trains aud vary In length from ntty-siS 10
sixty eight inches, according TO the bride :
height. The skirts cut with two CORES
on each side, sloPed mont breadth,
and one full straight back breadth.
and measure at their greatest width -four
yards, OF perhaps quarter OF a ward les:
the front and sides cling TO the figure. are fast
ened to the band without plests or gathers ami
all the fullness Is in ON-pleats behind, AFFORD
ing graceful sweep for the fan shaped train
Some muslin pleating with lace edge Is usually
put under the edge OF the train on the facing
A thick cord OF silk-coyered candle-wick
edges the skirt, and there may be one very
full gathered fOunce OF silk, but this Is not
necessary. Pleated tulle iounces, usually
three in a cluster, then trim the back OF the
skirt, and ii there is a silk iounce, one OF these
dlaphanous pleatings Is placed upon il; the up
per part of the back breadths forms one or two
large puffs held by garlands of orange blossoms
The front breadths have a tablier OF loose puts
OF tulles, which are arranged horizontally
I nnss 1a isaIes; ana Perpendlealsrly for short
separate these puffs. Over-skirts and saShes
are apt to get awry under the bridal vel, and
are therefore Objectionable. For church wed
dings the corsage is q high basque with a Me-
dlci run, and Medici puffs on the coat sleeves,
or else the Pompadour sleeves rufied below the
elbow; the corsage bouquet is placed high in
the left side Of the neck. The low round cor
sage lie worn at home weddings, and its little
pleatings and flowers take the form Of bertha.
OF else Oh a run. ulte NellS are faI nrettier
ana more girlish than lace ones, and are most
admired when uDtrimmed; many brides even
object to the hem, preferring the underlined
edge.
Imported bridal dresses are of white lustrous
tsfets silk, trimmed with pleatings of Organdy
instead OF tulle; but these have found little IA
yor. If the traditional satin or silk is departed
from, the preference here is for dresses entirely
OF tulle, made with pleatings and raches of silk
Milines tulle sewed on a foundation skirt of
stronger Lyons tulle. Satin carefully used in the
q EG n MI linz nj in naI H.
liners folds, or ruches-light up these tulle
dresses beautifully. An attempt was made TO
Introduce the regular Medici dress for brides,
with high plain waist, coat sleeves, and plain
skirt, with merely stiffiy wired ruff around the
neck, and large shoulder puffs for ornament,
but this was failure; 3 suggestion OF such
dresses.
RECEPTION PRESSES.
An absence Of elaborate laces and a return 20
old styles are also seen in some unique dresses
prepared for receptions. Ladies with line Il z
ures are content with dresses that are fitted to
perfection, without being laden with garniture
OF any sort, whether laces, tOunces, or flowers.
This IL making popular the chateaine bodice.
which merely outlines the figure, and is called
by modistes the hip waist. Some quantity
simple dresses have this cOrsage fastened
behind, while the front is rounded, or else il
is cut in princesse fashion, with the waist
and skirt In one. Such dresses have long
plain skirts, which are sometimes draped as
Oyer-skiTts above others of contrasting
color. For instance, a skirt OF black velvet
Of walking length and without trim is
worn under a chatelaine dress of pearl gray
silk, made with high corsage fastened behind
and close black velvet sleeves; the long pearl
colored skirt is also untrimmed, but is draped
high on each side, forms an apron in front and a
long train behind, and its only ornament is a
chatelaine bag OF black and pearl color pendent
on the right side.
Among the prettiest dresses noted during the
week is one of White Chsmbery gAuZe with
black stripes, on which are cherry figures. This
gauze forms the basque, overskirt and founces
mn hi aEatL ..Fafsr "A
black lace and cherry silk pipngs, and also
double Iufiies OF cherry color, with white sllk
lining. These three colors-black, white aud
cheTry-make a pretty combination for bru
nettts. Another elegant dress is of lavender
faile, with Nalenciennes lace. The basque
has sabot sleeves and standing English
silk piping, while its trimming is Va
leDciennts insertion placed at intervals
lengtnwise from neck TO edge on the entire
basque-a fashion much in favor this winter
as II gives the appearance of the long wsisi
which is now considered desirable. The skirt j.
edged with single deep gathered silk tounce;
on the three front breadths il a tablier of three
wide pointed folds OF silk, on which insertion i,
laid, and a ruftie of Valenciennes four inches
deep is below each fold. A reyers o. silk and
lace is down the second side seams, and az shawl
shaped over skirt is behind, made of silk, with
insertion stripes and lace rufie. \ dress in
contrasting colors is tea-rese silk, with cres-
centshaped tablier bands Of psler Sevres blue,
blue vest, and blue sash; another, of ray silk,
has blue ruches covering the front breadth. A
handsome dress NAV be made of the garnet
silks OF two years ago by copying the following
model Dispense with all hounces, and make a
crosswise tablier on the three front breadths of
three bias bands Of black velvet, each four
inches wide, wi b a side pleatiDg of garnet silk
telow each; place a reverse of velvet or silk
down the second side seam. or else put velvet
bows at the end Of the tablier pieces. and have
a sash beginning on the sides, to tie up the long
old fashioned train in stylish puff. The square
high basque should then have a velvet vest,
cuffs, and pipings. Crepe lisse plestings and
some pretty duchesse lace will then complete it
lions have three loose puffs across the front
breadths; with wide rows Of jet galioon and
fringe between.
TO HOLD SKIRTS BACK.
Since the fashion of clinging front and side
breadths has become fixed, modstes have con-
trived better plan for holding back dress
skirts than the old way OF tying them with
tapes. This is used especially for narrow French
round skirts cut with but one side gore and a
full back breadth of wide double-fod material.
tape or band quarter Of yard long is placed
horizontally on the wrong side of the back
breadth, in its middle fold, and about sixteen
inches below the belt. The breadth at this
point lie then laid in four deep pleats on each
side of the fold. all turned toward the middle
and then stitched to the band beneath This
leaves about an eighth Of yard of the breadth
ness behind, making the sides stylishly plain.
This plan is an excellent and simple one, and
will be adopted for skirts Of all shapes.
TIE DRMI-PoLoNAIsE.
cessfu over dresses of the winter, and appears in
all materials from velvet and camel's hair down
to the thinnest Chambery gauze. A black velvet
demi polonaise is an elegant gar ent to wear
with q black silk skirt fiounced with velvet The
long square cornered sides and the basque back
should be trimmed with lace and Jet galloon,
while the sash that holds the back Is velvet on
one side and silk on the other. A lace ruff T.
around the neck and wrists. A white game
demi- polonaise is considered one of the most
salable garments in the modiste's collection, as
1t is stylish and simple, may be worn with any
silk evening dress, covers up soiled skirts, and
gives an air OF freshness to pdssee toilets. IL
may be made Of satin striped Chambery gauze,
either in inch-wide stripes or else large stri pc
formed of a cluster Of smaller ones, aud should /
be trimmed with narrow uffies OF the same and /
a fringe of silk balls. The waist and sleeves may
be lined with white silk, or else the sleeves may
be unlined and the waist lining cut out In the /
neck. to be worn over q colored silk waist; IL is
best, however, to line them both, as the suit is
then completed by using merely the colored silk
skirt. Such Q demi poonaise rs we have de-
scribed Gusts go.
MIDwINTIR COSTUMES.
The reduction In the prices OF goods extends
also to ready-made clothing, and to those ~ sde
Of handsome fabrics. For Instance, among Do |
lonaisee on exhibition very pretty ones Of black
velvet are shown as low as SIS. They are cut
In stylish shape, are amply long and handsome