Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1874-01-02
Enaninns for Winter.

LIE Toilet says each season has its
own special materials. Wooden makes,
cashmere, or fine cloth; velvets, plain
or fancy; poplin, striped or plain; sicili-
enne, mixture of wool and silk, are
all now in favor. Passementerie and
fringe, mixed with jet and beads, is still
much used. Tabliers are made entirely
of passamenterie they are rounded at
the sides, and finished off by wide SASH
ends of moire forming trimming to
the skirt, and a passamenterie trim
ming to match is made for the bodice.
Buttons of innumerable styles are to
be seen, and, as we mentioned last
month, are quite important accessories
TO toilet Just now. The robes Prin-
&C sses, without TUNES or upper skirts,
are much worn for dressy occasions.
The breadths OF trained skirts are cut
ia unequal legths, augmenting in length
as they approach the back; they are
quite even at the top, the bottom OF the
skirt being rounded to form the train.
The poufs, though still worn, show
very decided decrease of their former
exaggerated sise; they are formed in the
manner VIC have before described by the
back breadths heiag cut longer, and
plaited or gathered in at the side.
TUNES are very much less worn; they
arc, however, still in use, made very
short in front, rather longer behind,
either draped at the sides so. as to
form pouf, or the two snds tied
loosely across under buckle. Polo
naiscs, If made of cloth, may be very
plain, merely leaving row of large
buttons, and hem with double stitch
ing all round; or they may 90 more
deliberately trimmed with passementerie
in plaques, tasscls and olives. The
pockets which arc so much worn, add
very greatly to tho style; they arc made
large, and placed in front, GU the higs,
or at the hach. Sometimes there are
fve-two 10 front, Two behind, and a
small brcast-pocket.
For evening costumes silk is at pres
cnt the material preferred; the shades of
color that have been fashionable during
the last month or two are still in vogue
the paler shades and those especially
adapted for gas light being reserved for
full dress. For ball dress the bodices
will be made low at the back but higher
in proportion TO the front.
Crepe lisse OF gauze frills are consid
cred the most becoming. There is a
softuess about the shade and texture
which renders it peculiarly becoming to
the complexion. 1t should be made
double or quadruple, with a ribbon
placed along the center hidiRg the plaits.
A similar frill is also worn around the
cuff and up the opening of the sleeve.
The fraise with a plastorn is very re-
cherche complement to dress, and
few models of such, given in detail, may
prove useful TO our readers. A fraise
plastron of black gros do Suez, piped with
white, and tasted by jet buttons. There
are some charming little gilestes COM
posed of white faille. Black velvet
pockets are placed on the basques in
front, and small breast pocket is put
on crossways. The buttons are of
black velvet, and cords of jot and pas
sementerie cross the piastron, in the
style of the Hussar jacket.
a For full evening toilet, lace, ribbon
and flowers viii he employed as trim
mings. The latter we are told, will be,
many Of them, Of a fanciful description
products of the artists imagination;
but, although not to be found in Flora
dictionary, they produce, it is said,
very good effect under the gas-light.
There is little change in the shape of
hats and bonnets lattsrly, but there is
slight difference in the way Of putting
them on. They are no longer placed so
far back as was the custom to wear
them during the summer. The rage for
backles, arrows and other ornaments of
jet and steel continues Mother-of-pearl
is also beginning to be employed in this
manner not only for hats and bonnets,
but for looping up TUNES, or fastening
ends and bows.