Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-02-02
FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.
LETTER FROM NEW YORK.
From err opn Corr,sp5HisRi

The season so Tar has been a very quiet, but
withal very pleasant one. There have been
Few large entertainments compared with form
er years, and no overwhelming successes in the
way OF balls, but there have been many small
reunions, few notable literary assemblages,
and more decided attempt 70 supply the in
creasing want OF social centres where people of
refinement can meet in an informal and friend.
ly manner, than has been made since the death
OF Alice and Pho be Carey closed the one housa
where congenial spirits, Irrespective of Other
qualifications, always found welcome.
The successors OF the sisters, the good Samar-
ttans upon whom their mantle appears 10 have
fallen, is Miss Mary Booth, the well known
author, editor, and translator, and her CO.
worker, Mrs. Wright. These ladies have lived
together As mutual helpers for twelve wears IN
a relationship as perfect as that which sub
sisted between the celebrated ladies OF I.angol-
lNn. Miss Booth is the outdoor worker, Mrs.
Wright the in door helper; together they form
the nucleus OF a quiet and beautiful home where
upon one evening OF each week they receive
with cordial grace and infOrmalIty the cult
waited and cOngenial of beth sexes; aud 80 well
are they fitted for the work, or 50 great was the
want of social element OF this nature, that II
promises 20 become the basis of an assemblaRe
as renowned as the club OF the blue stocking"
era.
DRESSING UP TO KID GLOVES.
The complicated dress OF the past few wears
has really been one OF the greatest obstacles 10
the enjoyment OF a social life, refined vet not
burdensome. Party dresses cost so much and
and attainment that thousands of ladies' wives
of professional and distinguished men could
not think OF composing more than one, OF a
most two, and these must be worn with their
list of expensive auNiliaries upon every occa-
sioRc Competition ran 80 high in the matter OF
display that 1t became impossible % send out
invitations for "early and quiet eSeningsr
Two or three" il was understood, meant A
hundred. more or less, and hostess was cha
grined at finding her guests prepared for a M ore
formal occasion, and guests mortified At being
AZ VI q 1N-Q
ing;
blsges comprise the intelligent and s1tf. OF that
favored city, made the discovery that the wear
ing of kid gloves was at the bottom of the whole
matter. Both men and women feel that thew
must dress mp" TO kid gloves. They therefore
vanished, formally and by resolution, kid gloves
from their receptions and have never since eN-
perlenced any difficulty. Gentlemen wear At
ternoon ttrockl coats; ladies such pretty and
sensible tollettes a. they will wear in the even
ing at home-the velvet, sleeveless Jacket, the
lace Tuilie, the tulle bow. with its ssbutton-
hole" bouquet, or embroidered scarf, adding all
me hnish required 10 the plain silk or cashmere
costume.
INFLUENcR OF CULTURE iron DRESS.
Livery year the evidences increase OF A more
general ava extended culture among women,
and this greatly and adyantageOuslv Influences
their dress. An absorbing love OF dress is simply
sign Of general emptiness OF mind and be art
which gladly fills the vacuum with whatever
can be made TO DO the most service in finding
the vacuity Of the individual Cultivate the
heart and occupy the brain better, and dress
VIII take Its secondary and proper place in The
estimation OF women. That Is 70 saw IL viii
simply be considered in its II. stiOns 10 other
things: position, personal requirements. health,
ana not as independent OF or superior in its
claims to all these.
One of the fashionable events of the season
has been course in English literature given by
Miss Kate billiard a niece OF Geo. ). Hilliard.
OF Boston, in New York and repeated in Brook
Ign. The course consisted OF twelve lectures
embracing the history OF English poetry from
he 4fraa .n-f han -
as literary treat. Miss HiliIard's voice i
musical, her elOcutiOn is admirable, her manner
faultless, her mastery OF her subject COMPLETE
She would make an excellent professor OF Eng
ish literature in a woman's college.
An Engiish gentleman visiting here stated
recently that he was quite unprepaTed tor the
true refinement, intelligence and culture which
ne had found among American ladies OF the
highest class. He had rather expected them to
be loud in their dress, free in their speech, 81
pericial and limited in tueir knowledge o.
books, and frivolous in their tastes. The minute
acquaintance, intense love, and deep app9eci A.
ton OF the best poets and essaylsts, both Eng
llsh and American, which EXISTS among them,
surprised him not a little. The intellectual ele-
ment in society is indeed communicated almost
wholly and very properly by women, aud is
tending greatly 10 modify their IDEAS of dress.
as well as render IL more permanent.
WHERE FASHION CONES FROM.
Popular fashion, that fashion which IS picked
up and insisted upon by eKtraysgant dress
makers and millIneTs, which is cheaply copied
by shop-grls, and points the moral of thou
sands of economical and denunciatory nara
graphs, is now furnished almo wholly by
dramatists and actresses upon the stage. There
is no leading authority in &, ciety, either here
or abroad. All the more recent fashions have
hrst appeared here upon ace stage, and as a
consequence they are pronounced, daring,
showy-though sometimes dangerously becOm-
ing TO beautiful woman. But the more
thoughtful and intelligent lass hesitate more
and more in copying these STYLES. The men,
bers OF 1t begin TO have ids ais as well as ideas
lnsensibly they adopt style of dress which
haImonizes with their newly awakened sensi-
bllltles and aspirations, ami soon discover a way
to preserve il amid all the changes and iuctu-
atiOns of modern fashion. The wardrobes of
proHlne Mt actresses now, OF themselves cost q
fortune. Thev are no longer composed OF gauzes
and tinsel but OF the richest silk, real lace, and
magnificent jewels. Six entirely new dresses.
worn by al actress in single play the other
night, were imported from Paris at a cost OF
ten thousand dollars, exclusive of the splendid
diamonds and other accessories. Ali these
dresses were remarkable and complete as works
OF art, and Will doubtless be copied by women
with more money than brains; but they would
no more he desired for herself by an intell gent
woman than she would wish to exchange her
cosy but more sober home for the painted pref
tness OF the French stage cottage and its elab-
crate gilt furnishing.
Perhaps some lady readers may like to know
or what these six dresses were composed, so
without going into detail, which would be
necessarily complicated and confusing 1 will
Indicate their general style and description of
fabric. One was Of rich blue silk IN two shades
trimmed with a darker shade OF velvet tnan
either, and white lace Another was white
cashmere wrapper heavily embroidered lined
with quilted silk and trimmed profusely with
white guipure lace. A third was of black velvet,
trained skirt and base ne, the latter embroidered
with silk and fine jet, and finished with a black
fraise lined with white. A fourth was ball
dress of black Brussels net and coral coOred
silk trimmed with black lace and garlands OF
pomegranate blossoms with green leaves. A
fifth was asummer dress eff ecrH pOngee and blue
crepe, the Iongee trimmed with scarf of blue
silk laid in folds and ecrU lace; straw hat
turned up and trimmed with blue silk folds aud
pipings, blue and scra feathers. Sixth, a travel
ing dress in two shades Of brown vigogne, the
lighter shade employed for skirt aud sleeveless
coat, the darker shade for sleered waistcoat cut
long and straight across the front and fastened
with light silk buttons embroidered in darker
shades. Both shades were put together In
trimming upon the skirt and sleeves,
BLACK AND GREY.
Not so many dead black dresses are seen ~
formerly, the use of jet, the introduction OF
white or colored satin Innings in bas9ues, GUNS,
and rufies, the elegant embroidered or Iringed
sashes, and the pretty mixtures OF SIX ana lace
worn as vests collarettes, and the Ike reneve
black toilettes from duilLess without marring,
if employed judiciously, their distinguished