Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1874-01-31
WHITE oAuzE pRBesEs.

White gaze de Chambery is the most fashion
csded ssnre. cioudsd, spotted, and striped
gauzes, are all worn, and sometimes three diff
ferent patterns appear In one dress; bet the
popular fancy 10 for that with satin or silk
stripes over an inch wide. These causes, with
either white or colored stripes, cost from si25
TO 50 yard, and are "a inches vide. The solid
wide stripe makes up most effectively when
one kind Of gauze Is used; but If associated with
dotted or brocaded game over-skirts, narrower
stripes are selected or else stripes that are made
arranged In side pleated founces. Heavy bro
caded gauZes are richer and much more eSpen-
siye, costing "a or 50 for pure white gauzes,
while those in which black or colored flowers or
arabes qnes appear may be had for 81. so yard.
The handsomest patterns have damask or lace
like stripes alternating with watered stripes.
ton, and trimmed with fiounces of the same,
flowers, and silk sashes; lace Is not appropriate.
One OF these dresses, cool and fresh enough tor
both summer and winter balls, Is all white and
green, viz, white brocaoed gauze with pale
green sashes, and large white lilies with their
dark green leaves. The demi- trained skirt has
onaly, beginning high on the right side and
gradually narrowing TO the left; above this, ex-
tending TO the belt, was an apron drapery of
loose diagonal folds, on which were two sashes
placed with easy, careless grace, and supporting
two garlands OF large creamy white Gala lilies.
headed by puff, and the tops Of the breadths
were covered by long ver-skiIt draped by
green bows and long loops. Low round Jose phine
waist, with folded GIecian bertha, and wide
similar dress, worn at the Infant Asylum
Ball, had fringes of liles-o the valley for gar
ni,nIe, and bouquet Of the real flowers and
"corset " aist, covering the hips smoothly, and
vine Of flowers around the neck and edge was
the only trimming. Diamond ornaments: The
dark hair was in puffs and a chatelaine b aid,
with large smooth waves on the forehead, and
valley lilies on the side.
TULLR, TARIATAN, ETC.
Among other thin fabrics, tulle and tarlatan
dresses are next in favor; muslins are not
much worn as formerly. These dresses have
very short and very sharp trains, and are pref
test when trimmed from belt to toe with a
diagonal tablier of clusters made up of ruche,
a puff, and q side pleating; sometimes each
cluster is headed by garland of flowers, though
often there are but one or two diagonal gar
lands, or else vine is down each side. The
back breadths have succession of side pleat-
ed founces below, and soft panier puffs above.
fabrics, but, instead, Is ample scarf sash
of white watered ribbon, or else of soft
India silk in pale tints; this is passed around
side, and, falling lower on the left, is knotted
there with hanging ends. Basque-waists
and hali.long sleeves are still used, but the
dies ball dresses has high neck and short
sleeves in severe Medici fashion, and is oftenest
laced or buttoned behind. A high ruff and
pulled sleeves belong to this quaint bodice. If
preferred, the waist may be either pointed
else round, with wide belt, but il is most often
the chstelaine bodice, which extends over the
hips smoothly, as corsets do, and is called the
chip waist, }" and sometimes the "corset waist"
There Is very little trimming on any corsages,
and their lower edge must not be defined ex-
are less frequent this year than high ones, but
short sleeves are universal; the PompadOur
sleeve, ruffied below the elbow, is decidedly
pdsste. Some dresses omit sleeves altogether,
having merely fringe of lace or flowers,
while thick silks are given the sleeveless appear
anee by having merely short puffs OF the thin
nest tulle.
GARIANDs, POCKETS, ETC.
GarlaLds of pink rose-b buds are the prevailing
fancy for trimming thin dresses, whether Of
white tulle, green, blue, or the pretty gray and
Lavender tulIe dresses that are among the most
refined of the season. The floral parure now
consists of a belt bouquet for the right side of
the corsage, another high on the left of the
neck, short thick garland crossing the back of
the waist diagonally from night to left, and
various hanging garlands for the skirt, instead
of horizontal vines for heading flounces. For
the couture is a compact cluster without trail
ing sprays. Water lilies, lilies the valley,
and violet clusters are much used, and blue
myosotis sprigs are used by the gross for trim
ming white dresses. Large white roses and the
double white primroses are also fashionable
flowers.
The smmonjere, or chatelaine bag, for hold
ing the list OF dances and the handkerchief, is
attached to most ball dresses this winter. This
Is h'.nging pocket made OF the gauze or silk
of the "a ess, edged with lace or flowers. on
over silk, with an exquisite rose set in The GEN.
tire.
fashion. The coiffures seen at most exclusive
balls are of the natural hair, whether dark or
blonde, arranged in finger puffs, a chatelaine
braid, and smooth scalops on the forehead;
thus it is worn both high and low, and is varied
to suit the contour OF the head. The Greek
INLET OF gold, precious stones, or ribbon OF vel
vet, is a very fashionable ornament; with these
are small feather tufts agrettes, or a tiny clus-
ter of flowers to match the bouquet and the
garniture Of the dress. 1t is said that large
massive curls are about to be revived, and will
be worn In a cluster behind, made Of four short
cuTls with four longer ones.
AT THE ACADEMY BALLS.
SilEs, satins, and velvet with rare laces are
worn by the stately women of society who serve
as lady managers of the most exclusive OF the
Academy balls. Cream and tea-rose silks are
in especial favor, though blue is more worn than
and more positive hues than are usually chosen
for gas light toilettes and cOlored velvets, such
as cerise and Sevres blue, are being revived by
leaders OF fashion. A directress of the Infant
Asylum ball. stylish brunette, wore cream
tinted faille with facings of dark brown vel
vet, and founces of white illusion wrought
were sapphires and diamonds. The raven
hair was in finger puffs and smooth
waves; White camels-hair Dolman. A
second lady. manager wore tea-rose silk with
black Chantilly lace fiounces. one of the rich
est dresses OF the evening was of pink satin with
golden brown velvet facings and ruches. The
touhci wac tWO WluC uOuuCcc VI point 6ppUQue
lace; two long tabs of lace extended the whole
length OF the train. Vines of shaded pink roses
draped the skirt in various devices. Low
pointed corsage. The ornament for the hair
was diamond butterfly nesting amidst roses
An effective dress was OF white silk with black
Chantilly iounce draped diagonally in front
and curved behind; the sash and rose vines, of
which there were several yards, were of deepest
crimson.
ENTERTAINMENTS, INVITATIONS, CARDS, ETC.
There is return to wholesome simplicity in
the day entertainments given this winter. Ket-
tledrums, Russian teas, and informal receptions
are the order OF the afternoon, seven of these
having been noted on the same day on one block
on Fifth Avenue. At these entertainments the
guests wear street costume or 60 in full dress,
as best suits them, and the simple refreshment
is tea poured by the ladies Of the family in the
presence OF the guests, in English fashion. The
Russian tea has slice Of lemon added, waters
and other delicate cakes are offered, and some
times chocolate is served. The table is con-
spicuously placed, and there is display of hand
some silver, old china, and fine napery.
The invitations to these unceremonious par
ties are on cards instead of note sheets. For in
stance, for kettle-drums or afternoon teas, the
hostess sends her visiting card with merely the
words HTea af five osclork1,