Wilmington journal. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1844-1895, 1874-06-19
pURDI,
COLSTON,
MASON,
kALIFA.
Fel)r. 1874

COLSTON,
MASON,
KALIFA,
F'ebr. 1874
It was coincidence that these two
inscriptions were placed there at forty
two years interval, perhaps, to day,
for LinaDt was there in the very same
week OF February of 1882, and kalifa,
the Chief, who was our guide, was the
nephew Ct Earaca, Linant's chief
guide.
4 little before reaching. Derehib, we
met quite character in the person of
Il native named hindoO, who was also
Linant's guide at Mt. Hegatte and
Derehib. This old man is said to be
12O years old, allowing for some exag
gcratiOn, lie is certainly over one hum
dred. When the French Army was in
Egpyt in 1898, lie was a man Of mature
age. He is very fat and i0vial, and
has ell his senses unimpaired. He has
Il very full head Of irOn-gray hair and
good front teeth but we were assured
that he never eats any solid food. He
consumes, however, goats skin full OF
milk every day. Wien asked about
his age, he laughed and said that when
he was young, Mt. Hegatte was just
SO high Quitting his hand about three
feet from the ground. 1t was anus
ing to see this old man riding on his
dromcdarr, bareheaded and nearly
naked, with his fat sides shaking like
Jelly at every step. He accompanied
us all the way to Berber, doing his
days journey as well as any one, crack
ing his Jokes and occasionally chalieng-
ing some one or other to q Iromedary
r,;,.n. We were told that some years
ago he owned 1000 camels-a very
large fortune i'll that country. But he
was too aYaricious to sell at a fair
price, and in the drought OF the last
three years they all persisted but
eighty.
After making It careful exploration
Of Derehib and the ancient mines, we
resumed our march which led through
the Same kind Of rich wadies that 7
have previously described, occasional
ly crossing from one into another over
! rugged ridges of mountains. Our
journey was enliyened, and [ assure
you our fare was greatly improved by
| the quantity OF game that we had.
Three different kinds of cartridges, or
grouse, together with a few of nj
gratOry snipe which we found near
water and some wild pigeons, con-
| tributed to our table. We saw few
hares, some gazelles, two capricorns,
or wild goats and two wild asses, but
we got no shots at them. Nearly ev-
cry day some incident would occur to
break the monotony of the march.
M0hammed kalifa being the great
chief Of all these tribes, whenever we
passed any encampment tie natives
| would flock around him and kiss his
hand IN token of allegiance. If the
halt was very brief, they would stand
around on one leg like SO many cranes
until the talk was over. If longer, the
i\alifa would dismount and all sat on
the ground in q circle. Then they
would expose to him their requests or
grievances. Sometimes they COM
planned Of the taxes, for the tax-gath-
erer goes even into the desert after
these wandering nOmads. One,
youth. came to him among number
of elders to complain that his uncle,
there present and looking very much
Ike = venerable gorilla, had stolen
from him his fathers inheritance.
probably few camels and goats, and
lie begged for redress. But the Kalifa
referred hir to tie regular counts at
Berber, for the law extends its sway
even into tho Wilderness. Sometimes,
however, when we suddenly came in
sight OF a camp, the first thing done
was GOr the women to drive all the
stock over the nearest hills AMI q tp-
pear, remnant Of the old mistrust.
The fact IS, the natives never saw be
fore such large caravan and soldiers
with 1t, and they thought it wise to
get out of the way first and ascertain
What We were afterwards Once we
came very suddenly upon some
quite young cameIs guarded by
two or three boys. These bows
heads were shaved all over ex-
cept a long tuft of hair growing
straight up from the top of the head,
as il the custom with children. But
the young camels humps were shaved
exactly III the same way, with tuft
sticking right up from the top of the
hump. The resemblance was some
thing quite ludicrous. Occasionally
We get some fresh camel's milk which
is excellent; tastes very much like
COWS milk and is far superior to goats |
milk. After ii has been carried about !
for some hours in a goat skin and |
we'll shaken it makes delicious butter
milk. BY the way, while at one of
our camps, young camel was brought |
IN which had resisted all attempts to |
break him. So they killed and eat |
him. The Arabs are very fond of |
camels meat. We got choice cut |
for the mess and it was we'll cooked. |
Though fresh meat was scarce with |
US, l can't say that enjoyed it. I |
might say about it what the back
woodsman said about the crow: 81 |
kin eat it, but [ don't banker after it,
eat a small piece by way of saying
that I had tasted cameFs meat, but 1 |
conscientiously recommend
f1et dc chamcau. 1t tastes like tough |
beef and has a sHeetish flavor which |
Is not agreeable.
On the 28th of February we passed |
the last wadies of the Arabian chain
and from there to the Nile, eight days
march, was an arid sandy plain. The
country we had passed through hith-
erto is more properly called a wilder
ness than desert. These plains where
no vegetation grows are called by the |
natives, Atmoor. Whenever the guides
tell you that you have to cross an at