Knoxville journal. [volume] (Knoxville, Iowa) 1874-1986, 1874-06-11
Hints About Dresses.

goods will furnish. OF course the first
thing to be considered in the making is
that they are to be done up. There are
two styles, either of which it will be best
to adopt. First, there is the loose, belted
polonaise, with the French back; that is,
one seam down the back and no side
pieces. The front should be in one piece,
with no darts but one. The draping of
the lower part should be very simple, ar
ranged with tapes to tie, so they can be
let out in ironing. The trimming should
be flat. We would advise borders stitched
on or stamped galloon. Sleeves coat,
with deep cuff, the outer point reaching
quite to the elbow.
The skirt should clear the ground, and
be as plain as possible in front. Kilt
plaitings will be worn in plain goods;
they must be fastened so as to iron well.
Striped goods it is better to make with
straight, slightly-gathered fiounce, and
stitch bias fold on the bottom. Two
straight fiounces made in this way. cut
quarter of a yard deep, are very suitable
for percales. White, thin muslins, dot
ted or striped, are pretty made with a
deep Spanish f1ounce, with a standing
ruffie edged with Italian lace. With the
Spanish flounce the skirt should be cut to
meet the flounce; and it may be said, in
passing, that summer silks may be made
in the same way; the flounce, cut bias,
has facing of foundation and short
hounce of foundation is sewed on under
the f1ounce to hold it out. Several yards
of silk can be economical in this way.
In making wash dresses with tunic
the waist should be a short, loose basque,
slashed in the back, trimmed with flat
plaitings or the most slightly gathered
ruff1e, which can be fiuted. Double.
breasted front, with revers and sailor col
lar and small buttons, is the prettiest
style; this is to be worn also with belt
The tunic should be deep in front and
tied in the back like regular apron
front. The back can consist of two plain
widths, perfectly straight and draped, or
of simply wide sashes, under which the
apron front is tied.
Plain white muslins are made with en-
broidery. Embroidered fiounces, either
in Hamburg or French embroidery, may
be bought, with smaller trimmings to
match. Very simple and pretty tlounces
are in deep scallops, with plain dots in
satin stitch. Sleeves pulled with en-
broidered bands running around or the
length Of the arm are very pretty.
Flounces are even made with box plat
ings, separated by embroidery, and polo
naises are finished with founces made in
this way.
The most fanciful varieties of tunics
are in vogue, denominated in general
terms "the Greek" Their peculiarly
consists in being alike on no two sides.
1t is not advisable to attempt these unless
one has an experienced dressmaker; for
their effect depends upon their artistic
arrangement; and this requires a prac-
ticed hand and familiar eye.
The trimming, above all, wOrn'tEis sea-
son on silks and grenadines is deep bias
rutfles, finished with a French hem on
it into small standing and deeper falling
rufile. Grenadine polonaises trimmed
with silk rutiies shirred on are exceed
ingly stylish. Striped and barred bareges
in shades of gray or brown, costing sixty.
five cents yard, make handsome polo
naises trimmed In this way, to wear with
old light silk skirts.
Pulled sleeves in thick goods are not sc
fashionable as was anticipated. The Goa
sleeve with deep cuff is more worn. A
pretty silk cuff is pointed toward thu
elbow, and faring again at the wrist. Thu
narrow part of the cuff is confined by ,
band or bow. Double and triple cuff
corded with reversible piece over tn
wrist are also very pretty.
Dresses a ta cetrge, or, as we used Il
call, surplice, are generally worn. Tn
waist should be cut high, but the trim
ming, which is of folds, with the high ruf
or standing fiaring collar, Stimulates thu
surplice, and the dress is turned in ant
worn with full Grape lisse knife plaitings
For evening wear square necks are some
times seen with plaitings which stand up
sharply defining the corners.
NOVELTIES.
Beautiful scarfs for the neck are made
of gros grained ribbon, about an inch anc
a half wide, with Italian inserting, the
ends pointed and finished with deep fal
of lace. They are about two yards long
Smaller ties made in the same way are
used for the neck.
White neck ties of soft china silk, with
brocaded figures and fringed ends, are
preferred to those in colors. Narrow, bias
ties of China Grape, with inserting set in
of Mechlin or Valenciennes lace, are
exceedingly pretty in pale shades OF pink
and blue.
Belts of steel and oxydized silver, in
layers like the scales of armor, are fash
ionaDle; also plain and futed belts OF
silver and gilt, and combinations OF
leather and silver.
Every caprice is seen in handke. chiefs
A square of cambria, the corners rounded
has colored cambria ruffies, slightly
futed. Others have inserting Of Italian
lace next the cambria, and borders OF
colored China silk. These wash and are
very beautiful.
Ecru nets come similar to Brussels net
and Spanish lace and are used like them
for long scarfs and sacks.
Boots for evening wear are ornamehted
with jet up the front. Blue slippers are
trimmed with bows of pale pink velvet
pink slippers with bows of pale blue vel
vet and pearl buckles; straw colored
slippers have bows Of black lace; black
slippers have bows of black ribbon dotted
with small steelcolored stars.
Pearl, steel.blue and jet buckles are
worn on dresses and bonnets with good
effect when not too large. Jet ornaments
of all kinds are very much used. Buttons
are worn only Of medium size. Crochetcd
buttons are used on silk dresses.
Embroidery and lace are attached 70
collarettes tor the necks of dresses. They
do up handsomely and are very durable