The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-05-30
The English Princes Visit to the
Hungarian Capital.
SCENES ALONG THE DANUBE.
Royal Entertainments in Honor OF Queen
VictOria's Sons.
BOATING AND RACING AT pEsTH.
GRAND HOTEL HUNGARIA,


usual hustle at the ofrices Of the Danube Steam
Packet Company on the Franz Josefs Quay at Vienna
The ordinary steamer had started usual at half
past six O'Clock; bat the Ariadne the finest boat
belonging to the company, lay alongside, with her
steam up and evidently prepared to start. The
l0afng crowd could get no satisfactory replies to
their inquiries, and the riddle was not solved until
the arrival Of three carriages, from which issued
the Prince OF Wales and Prince Arthur, attended
by the members Of their SUITE and accompanied by
two or three gentlemen who had been invited to
accompany this essentially private party on trip
which they were about to make down the Danube.
The Austrians are 80 accustomed to the sight OF
their rulers attired in dazzling uniforms and sur
rounded by pomp and formaity that the by
ISLANDERS seemed hardly able to comprehend that
the young men in round hats and plain morning
dress, who stepped quietly from their carriage to
the gangway raising their hats In acknow ledg-
ment OF the profuse salaams OF the boat officials,
could belong to the salt OF the world. 1t had been
specially requested by the Prince OF Wales that his
| visit to Hungary should be regarded as entirely
n0noncal, and that though he retained his title he
should be spared the tiresome ceremonial which
awaits every person Of rank in this land Of pune
tilious etiquette. The baggage was hurried on
board, and within five minutes OF the Princes ar
rival the steamer was under way.
The banks Of the Danube for many miles after
leaving Vienna are nat and uninteresting. Here
and there rough wall OF loose stones has been
thrown up to resist the encroachment OF the water;
but the general character OF the landscape be.
tokens the impOssbiity OF cultivation, and the
fields seem scarcely yet to have recovered from the
devastation OF the wintry floods. Stunted, shock
headed palsied willows with an occasional poplar,
are the only trees the grass is long and rank and
flags and burushes thickly fringe the stream. No
attempt at division Of the land seems to have been
made; all 10 common property, though here and
there, where the heritage is Of better quality ana
more fitted for grazing purposes, one comes upon
vast herd Of duncol0red, long-horned cattle, or
drove Of small, wiry shaggy horses, some brows-
ing, some galloping wildly about in terror at the
en0rting steamer. At intervals OF every two or
three miles we glide past long row Of barges,
some Of which have been formed into water mills,
while the others are converted into residences for
those who look after the grinding Of the meal. Ac-
cording to the tradition OF song, milers JOY
GUS, lively race, but 1t would be difficult to imagine
more solitary, cherries life than the lot OF these
men, zone side water all aroundn them, and such
land as they can see, barren des0late and forbid
ding. or active life on the river there is scarcely
any sign. The stream ssplit into many branches
and winds its way through 80 many devious chan
nels, between islands teeming with rank vegeta-
ton and high sand banks, that anything like
distant prospect Ii impossible.
Occasionally we come upon steamer tugging
feet OF heavily laden barges against the stream,
and then there Is an interchange OF courtesy be-
tween the two crews which is perfectly Eastern in
its profuseness. Each captain the bridge raises
his g0d-laced cap and lays his hand his heart;
each mate half way down the companion ladder
does ditto; even the helmsmen are SO intent upon
bowling and saluting that they let go their hold on
thn for
Gus nav igation.
HUNGARIAN COSTUMES
The Ariadne has been chartered specially for the
Princes use, and none but members or his party
and the ships company are on board so that there
is little chance OF seeing any Of the Hungarian
national character Nevertheless, as we steam
quickly by the various landing stages we catch
gllmpses OF the people waiting there for the up
stream boat-a strange variety indeed. Women in
sad coored garments with naked legs and feet,
and bearing their backs huge and heavy burdens,
baskets OF garden produce, or lime peat, bill
lets of wood loosely tied together; peasants in
shaggy woollen capotcs and mapping hats; men OF
the better class In long ur-embroidered cloaks or
profusely braided Jackets and high boots, remind
ing one OF Kossuth in his famous days; thin. wiry
Jews in eabardines reaching to their heels, elis-
tening with grease and with their greasy hair tor
tured into ringlets and hanging over their shout
ders; fr0wzy shepherds scratching suspiciously
under their tattered garments, and dirt.begrimed
children naked and not ashamed.
SIGHTS ALONG THE DANUBE.
The main object Of the Ariadne Is to arrive at her
destination within twelve hours after her depar-
ture and to make as few stoppages as possible;
consequently we steam rapidly by some places
which have at least an historical interest. This
small, dull town ringing the waters edge Is Pres
burg, and within the fortress browning the hill
Immediately overlooking IL, and whereof the four
outer walls still remain, the Magyar chivalry,
nearly hundred and fifty years ago, were 30
wrought upon by the beauty and eloquence Of
Maria Teresa, who appeared In their midst bear
ing her infant in her arms, that they. with one
accord, waved their glittering swords IN the air
and swore that memorable oath-"A0ridmur pro
Rege n0stro, Maria 7presa.n
Further on is Komorn, one OF the strongest for
tresses In Europe, where the Hungarians, in the
war OF 40, under General Klapka, successfully re-
sisted all attempts OF the Austrians TO dislodge
them. The comparison SO often made between
the Danube and the Rhine does not strike one
until some little distance below Komorn, when
the natness OF the river banks Is gradually re-
lieved by the upspringing OF chain OF hills, COW
cred with vineyards which increases IN holiness
ana in range until y forms magnificent purple
hued background for the Cathedral Of Grau.
cipitous ROCK overhanging the river, and is
undoubtedly the most picturesque object on the
whole voyage: THAT ECCENTRIC but wonderfully
powerful artist, Mr.. J. w. NJ Turner, would have
made splendid picture OF Gran Cathedral; so
could Garrison StaDfeld and Heath could have en-
graved 1t for his Landscape Annual IL IL more
than probable that Mr.. Chevaiier, q gentleman al
tached to the Princes SUITE Will depict the scene
az observed from the Ariadne's deck-the cupola
bathed in the soft rays OF the setting SUM- the river
dimpled with the reflections OF light and shadow,
whirliDg swiftly round the base Of the steep craq,
ha
town standing out In bold relief against the sombre
background OF purple mountain The ruins Of
Vssegrad, o cluster Of towers and battlemented
walls on the summit OF an isolated hill, are said TO
equal in wild grandeur the finest scenery to be
found on the Rhine, but 1t was too dark az we
steamed by to form anything like an adequate ap-
probation OF them. Far away In the distance
glimmer the lights Of Pestn, wavering line OF
lamps connecting the long ranges Of the bril-