Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1873-11-06


oEPTroNs, BALLS AND PARTIEs-NEw
GARMENTS FOR OUT AND: N DOOR
WEAR, 60, 60. 60 s. 800 4.
...t..s.. NEW York, Oct. 81. 1873. i
Oetober's crisp and bracing weather is
passing into the chilly, soinbre-hued
November. The Park reached, last
week, the zenith of its loYeliness, and
the drives are carpeted with cracking
leaves. But there is no falling off in
the number of equipages that upon fine
days roll in two continuous lines along
les miles of thoroughfares, though suits
mist be covered by outer garments and
the magniicence made less attractive to
the humble pedestrian and on-looker.
But fashion reigns IN wraps as well
as in ribbons. .s.t.t.' 81. $3.50. =. So,
Directs how grief may tastefulIy be borne.
IhsIfucts bereavement just how long to
Shows sorrow how by nice degrees to fade,
And make It's measure in a .riboon's shade
But the fashion-writer must report,
not moralize. Even at this early mo-.
ment full dress receptions are of nightly
occurrence, the rival theatres and opera
houses are filled with gay audiences,
thousand dollar dresses are exhibited
aud sold at the Openings and the
bracing autuInnal weather brings out
new French costumes on the avenue.
MATERIALS. ~. r.
To begin at the foundation, there are
many novelties for dresses and pol0nais-
es among the fayorito soft fabrics that
cling to the figure and drape gracefully.
The first choice is camels hair, in its
many varieties, such as calnels hair serge,
tufted camePs hair, and camel's hair
cashmere (Which is particularly soft and
fne). The latter is as closely twilled as
French cashmere, but has the rough,
lustreless surface of cameps hair with
light fleecy ends. 1t is shown in dark
blue, olive, leaf brown, myrtle green
and the favorite gray blue shades known
as slate. English and French serges
are also in great demand for winter COS
tunes. They are inexpensive, durable,
and very pretty when stylishly made.
WALKING DRESSES. Is.
There is decided tendency toward
plainness and simplicity in the new. street
costumes, which will be gladly welcomed
in exchange for the deliberately trim
med suits worn during the past two
years. The skirts to walking dresses
have grown scant and short. They es-
cape the ground entirely, and only meas
ure from three to three and three-quar-
ter yards around the bottom The front
and side cores are very marrow at the
top and are sewed to the belt without
pleats, the fullness is then. all drawn
toward the back, and in many Instances
the skirts are tied back underneath in
one or more places, that the plain,
smooth appearance in front may be
perfect. The trimming consists princi-
pally Of brass bands and flat pleating of
the same, or of silk shade lighter, or
darker, as one. may fancy,
.. REDING0TEs AND POLONAISE5-
The redingotes (accented on the
second syllable, which is pronounced as ,
if spelled dan) is the favoiite over
dress of the season. Double-breastea
redingotes and polonaises have almost
supplanted those cut single indeed,
most outside garments and wraps are,
double-breasted. Redingotes fall open
below the waist, with no drapirg, ex-
cept directly in the back, which leaves
the sides clinging smoothly over the
hips. Many of these comfortable over
dresses are buttoRed closely to the
throat in military fashion, with TIE
standing English collar. If cut with
reyers, they are SO fashioned that they
can be turned up close around the neck,
and the new caprice is to have pockets
placed in the back, as in gentlemen's
great-coats.
Among the newest designs for polon-
aises is one called the demi-polonaise,
which finds universal favor, both on
account of its simplicity and style. 1t
has long, straight points, consisting of
one breadth each, which are united in
the back by sash tied below a basque,
which forms the back of the garment.
1t requires very little material, and is
suitable for either silk or wool.
SLEEVELESS JACKETS.
These garments form an impoi ant
feature in the new costume. They
come in velvet and cashmere, richly en-
broidered with jet and silk. They are
We. y dressy, and quite warm enough for
fall wear. The form of the basque IS
different from that worn last season.
is cut longer, With square corners, anS,
like everything else, IS double reo sled,
with pockets on the front and back
9aey have the Inevitable ruff and re-
rse. They are shown in white. cancels
IT, tlimmed with lace, for opera cos
zones.
,-s WRAPS. ~
Forindependentw wraps, the moststylish
Ga, inents are dolmans, pelisses, hall
utt'ng SaCQueS, ana the Always. pSeIul
English walking jacket. The later VIII
be the most popular coat Tor ordinary
wear. 1t is made of heavy diagonal
cloth in all the new shades, dark blue
beisg preferred to all others. The
,-evers, pockets and cuffs are of velvet
ard repped silk
New dolmans are far more graceful
in shape than those formerly worn.
They sill retain the long side piece
peculiar to these garments, but the back
is fitted more closely, like a jacket,
They are found in quite stylish shades
Of camels hair, trimmed with yak braid
and wool embroidery. Occasionally
YOU find among the latest importations
a dolman of fine black cashmere, COM
pletely covered with jet and silk em-
broidery. These are very handsome and
stylish. but those made of rough sur
I g. 4INaN