Wilmington daily commercial., 1873-10-03

1t is frequently affirmed by many, often those
who are the most competent to Judge and there
ID now no such thing as fashion in gentlemena
wearing apparel. but that all current styles are
equally fashionable on their several proper occa-
HiOns, 80 long as the garments possess the res
pectlVe cnArActerlsuc1 that have 81 aalualIy he
come the accepted standard Of correctness
While this appears to be certainly true to the
ordinary observer, it ID because the changes In
gentlemens dress are 30 slow, minute, and grad
usl, a. to be almost imperceptible, except to the
practiced eye, and while garment made to-day,
If correct will possess the same feature that
characterized the correct garment Of ten years
ago, it will still be different in many material
respects. When there is 80 much variety of ma
terlAl, trimming and makeup" al is at present
worn, it il difficult to define which are the most
correct styles, but the following remarks can be
generally applied,
A frock coat from all classes OF diagonal and
worsted coatngs, should be cut Of medium
length in the waist and a. long in the skirt a.
will have good effect the lapsls straight on
the outer edge and straight at the top, neither
pointing upwards or downwards, the fore
part and lapel being four aud a half to I'VE in
ches wide at the top, and worn three buttons
buttoned edges flat, braided three-elghths OF
an inch wide, and breast facings Of so, de d,te to
the button holesi plain round cuff braided
and silk twist basket pattern buttons. The coat
should be cut of easy, natura and graceful pro-
portions, the shoulders neither wadded up. nor
too sloping or cramped. The waistcoat, If dou-
the same shape and character az the coat.
The morning coat is cut longer in proportion
in the waist than the frock coat, and shorter
in the skirt, buttoning rather high one or two
buttons, and medium cut-away in graceful lines
The lapel should follow the line Of the collar
seam, and the step form almost a right angle l. /.
inches deep, or in proportion to the eize OF
the coat. The front Of the flaps on a morning
coat should follow the line of the forepart the
waistcoat, II single-breasted with collar should
have step-collar the same shape az the coat.
Trousers should always be easy to the leg, nei-
Their too full nor too close-htting
Sack overcoata are made Of good length and
slightly shaped to the figure if single breasted,
buttoning with fly front, and the top OF the
lapel following the line of the collar seam if
double-breasted the lapel is straight al on a
frock coat There should be PLAN round cuff
hnlshedsthe same az the edges, or the sleeves
stitched In rows at the bottom. Nc fancy cuffs
or buttons should be put on oyercoat sleeves
Reeting Jackets are made TO button high, with
three buttons buttoned, the lapel cut straight
at the top and moderately wide.
Extremes Of all kinds are to be avoided
Gaudy colors, conspicuous patterns and louC
styles are Offensive to the eye and only convey
the idea OF Vngarity in the wea err Harmony
of dress andSgood taste is the first essential in
genteman's appearance, and il best attained BIZ
quiet and suhdued colorings, combined with ele
gance and neatness.--Ne,o York Ecening Ma