New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-11-28
than trlne In the first place, less fuel is required
TO cook small dish than large one.

vast mass OF coal goes blazing itself away. whether
its heat be employed TO boil kettle or 10 roast
a sheep. In France, especially in the country
cookery is carried on with wood or charcoal nEes
for the moment. and reused to activity In I'VE min
utes when tho time comes to use them inc same ehact
adaptation OF the end the same dgeDt pursuit
OF small economies is discovered here, as In all other
details OF the subject: IRE 10 roast chicken ~ iauo
worth Of charcoal bois or sews the OF
slucepans at the samo time; directly the operation
is complete fire Is covered mp with ashes, or Is pnt
out small quantities do take long to cook as big
ones, they need heat for shorter period ana even
require hours OF gentle smmerng TO bring them to the
point, the very nature OF the process pr9hipS siong
douceenf' Is the first counsel given beginner ana
that means, other things, never have Digger or
a hotter fire than you really want: for, II You 40, yod
will waste money, and VIII burn your e1sSerofeS ana
their contents.
But the writer does not always insist on the
details of economy IN the ordinances OF eating, Dat
now and then takes holder flight, soaring on
mighty pens" to the region Of the culinary en-
pyrean. Nothing but the devotion of the saint could
equal the rapt feryor with which he dwels on the
aesthetic aspects of French cookery in the nobler
manifestations of the art sublime One Of his gush-
ing rhapsodies must suffice our readers.
The rarer products French cookery beyond the
reach of the nation whole; daily home lie knows
ut mem an Tue Of tbe food OF France II
Ia, however, their local rather than their generdi
character that they present real Everybody
has dned at Phiippe's aud the Moulin Rouge every
body has eaten at least once In his life, when he was
ia Paris" curious dinner OF which the memory
dwes within him; when he made Acquaintance wilma
6sqne deereoisses, and sdyH de Etes DC sote "a
cdisSe and creme a la BouT6OanotSe, or half dozen
other amazing compounds with similarly unlneilHble
denominations. But the number of US who have eaten
griled Roy0ns Bordeaux, crawsh ont OF the Fon
tame dc yaucuse, COLLISIONS at AK or yiolets and
the other peculiar products OF twenty other places Ii
probably somewhat limited. And more than all, how
many OF us have dined at the Reserve at Marsellle
that famous restaurant on the Mediterranean shore,
where tho brothers Roubion have acquired Immortal
fame There Is but one word in English which
describes the sensation OF the Traveller VINO eats tlee
for the first time that word Is revelation. New
truths seem 10 be impaired 70 You rs you swallow new
objects aud theories OF life seem to float around
YOU. strange ideas TO you across the sea; ana
when IL IL all over, when with cal-bringng cigar
your legs stretched out, you silently digest ana thlnk
with the Chateau ar and the ckcring waves before
you in tho moonlight, you gratefully than6 Proyllehee
lor having led you there All THIS - INC eHeel OF Src
which works upon you like hashish. You began your
dinner with PreTes. shelsh which as good as oys-
tiers, ana with tnem you drank the stony ayored We
which on the rocks at Cassis, halfway TO
Toulon. Then you took soup called BoWrtde, ias-
ciunng mixture OF creamy FISH, tain bread ana dHtolt
loi, the woodcOck Of the Your mouth having be
come somewhat hot you stopped to cool yourself WIN
P0atrgue preparation OF fish eggs superior to cae,ar
ComfOIled aud strengthened you began agan on lles
OF due k into which OF hundred olives from
the Crau had been injected by simultaneous stewlng
one glass Of Ldto Of 1854 materially helped you at TINS
iunctuTe. Then camo ChdtduIrtdltd, hoating IN a
TeDOulade OF which one-half was dufot AGAIN ere as
YOU well remember, you needed three more glasses OF
that LaioUr Vegetables you refused, you had had
enough; but you toyed a ltll with an unknown SOFT
champagne tRouSSI5n's carte do, Finally. got to
your hotel bed, and tossed about all night ~ red
hot fever In your htful sleep you dreamed that you
were Monte CristO; and you felt frightfuly i'll next
morning; that was garlic again: the people OF the
country told you, however that YOU would become
accustomed to il after five years OF patient
tice The sea hath rs pearls, the heaven h1tn nus
stars :" England has Richmond and Greenwich; France
has the Pavilion Henri QIatre at ST. GERMAN, ana the
Reserve at Marsele. Miids-ofhonor and whitebait
i'm scine,et-Oise, or Of tho aiioli the BOuches du
Rhone they certainly the pearls and stars OF LOFTY
Superior the prawns that get fat on the dead negroes
who buried IN the sea at Rio Janero, the canvas
backs in October at Baltimore, al sweet 10 cat ana
TO recoect, but they are pale indeed by tho Side OF
ailioH
An edifying chapter is given to the manners Of the
French, although the author never appears to the
best advantage except when discussing on the in-
spring theme Of the French kitchen The founda-
ton of French lmanners is laid in the influence of
woman. Her reign is powerful at home but rarely
reaches out-of-doors Within the four walls of a
drawing-room, she is IN absolute sovereign, but her
mower seldom extends to public questions of any
Tho French woman IL essentially woman
her objects almost always feminine; she does
not seek to go beyond her sphere and alb
stains from interference in outside topics, whatever
be their gravity or their Importance. Hence the
French woman is generally agreeable. The neces-
sity Of attracting is in the Gallo blood. 1t may be
controlled by an absorbing sentiment of duty; it
may be suppressed for time by other more urgent
needs; il may be modified in its expression by. the
thousand accidents of positions; but it is still at the
bottom Of every French woman's heart. There is
doubtless a marked contradiction between French
manners and the moral state which their grace and
courtesy would imply. But this is not a modern
fact. Those manners have always coexisted with
the moral defects which are observed to-day French
cboroctar French nualitips French shortoorninQs
have been the same for centuries. The absence of
correlation between the inner state and its outward
manifestations has existed since manners were in
vented. There has always been the same polish on
the surface the absence of convictions under
meath Doubtless this is true of France, but its APP
plicatlon should not be limited to that country.
Since the eating of cOntraband apple in the garden
of Eden, a Transparent truthfulness has not been
ordinarily found among the everyday manifesto
tons Of humanity.
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