Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-05-10

Ecru chip - an undressed sewed braid, very
sot and Hight, md altogether different from the
its Wilderness Is . nearly concealed by trimming
that alIobjecttons to 1t are removed, and 1t 10
consfdered . most dressy summer hat. The
eoor SoSn 5sPps 60 shs dnc
costume On the wearer; but so much biloxi lace
and such varied flowers are used on Tho bonnet
thss 1t becomes generated en-. enough 70 salt
and Is almost a light as q lace bonnet.
. The latestcaprice on elegant French hat9 Is
to put great deal of trimming all around an
that are now worn high around the head. This
trimming consists Of q fiat band OF folded rib
bon, on which is laid part of q wreath Of
Leave, ha or ,h roses on fhSe SIDE With con yetis
head around the crown braid; and the hat brim
above It Is lined with silk, and turned upward,
or else outward, in most caprici0us fashion.
brim of white chip hats thickly studded with
finest jet; below this is then placed q coil Of
band Of ribbon of becoming color. The most
simply trimmed bonnets have a flower cluster
Just in front Of the brim, or one side, or else a
bow with turned-up ends is perched eoquetishly
on the plain smooth facing. Pink or blue rib
bon rolls and puffs under the brim are yelled
ornament. For half wreaths under brnis, pale
pink sweet-brier, with its thorny stem and
glossy leaves, q row of dwarfed roses, and the
bright blue garden pinks, seem to be the favor
roses, and vines of ivy leaves grape leaves,
and the colored nasturtium, are on stately bon
nets TOR elderly ladies; blue forget me-nots
mixed with pink wild roses are for fresh. youth
full faces.
The back Of the crown is also another object
i've point for trimming, especially for punches
lessly, showing the cut, pointed. ends of their
flexible stems, and the string with which thew
are held. These rosebud clusters are some
times all pink. but are oftener pink, red and
vol hau aoAx -
crown in Spanish fashion, and are prettier and
wear better than the long trailing vines that are
soon tangled and broken. Two nOdding ostrich
much to their style. Black chip Rabagas with
stylish black costumes.
The small spaces still undescribed between
the brim and the rose cluster on the crown
usually shows the clear outline of the soft chip,
simply banded with tapping folds of bias silk,
with q knot or loops on the left side. 1t is a
matter Of fancy about ribbon or lace drapefy
behind. The prettiest lace drapery is three
c0rnered piece Of dotted net edged with lace
and folded back and forth like the spirals of q
piess ike vatican fold Two SansnS e sos
of lace behind are not now worn, but long rib
bon ends are much used. 1t Is not, however, IA
matter Of taste about strings, as they are now
added to everything, round hats and bonnets
alike; anu the principal difference between hats
and bOnnets lies in the way the strings are tied
viz under the chin for bOnnets. and under the
i
strings are most used, but these are soon sOiled
by Precipitation, the first warm DAYS will see re-
vived the cool and pretty fashion of black lace
strings loosely held under the chin by a rose
One of the pretti&st Rabagas bonnets is soft
white rice chip with sky blue repped band un-
der the brim, on which is laid a vine of green
rose leaves with pink bud cluster on the
right. Blue bands and an aigrette trim the out
side. Another Rabagas, made for the Presi-
dents fair haired daughter Nellie, is of black
and black lace ruche with coquettish pink
bow for face trimming. wreath of blue for
get me-nOts fills the space back of the brm, and
long stem med pink rose-buds droop from the
crown. Black and pink ribbon pendants, and
black ribbon strings. A chip HOrtense bonnet,
with ample crown and corOnet brim, receding
on the sides and turned down behind, was
faced with black velvet, and had a turquoise
blue roll beneath. Turquoise folds, q blue
pompou, glossy green leaves, and brown berries
with black lace strings, completed the trim
to be worn with olive costume. The brim is
faced with pale blue, and blue band lying on
the high braid Of hair supports wreath Of ivy
leaves tiny stems Of cedar, some pink rose buds,
yellow rose, and q pale blue garden pink.
Olive brownsilk of two shades is folded around
the crown, and two ostrich plumes nodding on
the crown are shaded from dark to light olive.
A fine black chip has the turned-up brim
thickly incrusted with jet, and a pink roll I'M
derneath. Soft tulle is pulled over the crown.
and two ostrich tips drOop backward over
lace falls like jsSot behind. White ee chm IN
from VirOts has pale creamy brown repped silk
facing the brim, and darker olive roll Beneath
with pink rose buds just in front. Loops of
cream-c color trim the crown, and two shaded
brown plumes surmount it. Long olive ribbon
steamers behind.
RIDING-HABITs.
Among imported riding habits those made in
London are preferred BY equestrennes. These
English habits are exceedingly plain this sea-
son, and black habits are more decidedly IA
vored than ever: The basque is short jockey
held In place by q length wise row of small bat
tons. The front Of the basque is short, and IL
merely two soft points. The edge of the basque
is simply bound with twilled silk braid there
neck has round turned-over collar Of velvet.
The coat sleeves are very tight, and have
button and button-hole ct the wrist to widen
tSs are most ana
pensive London made habits. The skirt Il not
regularly gored, but IL shaped out from the
vide cloth 50 that it has but one or two seams.
IL is cut to bulge out on the right side 10 make
it tit smoothly over the knee that is thrown over
the pummel, and this makes the right side ten
inches longer than the left. 1t Is not 30 scant a.
long as formerly, but is q medium between
these, measuring four yards at its greatest
width, while the length Is ffty-two inches in
front and sixty 1.-TWO behind. The front Is sewed
- DS,s WA~e $".nois, Vus t.sChO oiO efA
pieats behind; the placket IS on the left side,
and very deeply Tapped with o pocket under
meath. Seven yards Of cloth at Sc . yard are
used for such habits. They cost when COM
pleted s7S. Lighter cloth at % yard Is pre-
ferred by some ladies for summer wear. Glossy
broadcloth and tric0t wear better than ladies'
cloth. which rOughens by usage, and gets
furred and happy surface. Furnishing houses
ask from $50 to 800 for stylish habits Tailprs
trim them with fine camels-hair braid, put on
q Ia mitita,re, In tiny waves and curls besides
band Of wider braid. .-- ~
NEWLY DRAPED LACE POINTS.
Modistes are draping lace points to form
stylish round mantles Of pretty talma shape,
With armholes and q slender pointed hood.
This Is done without cutting or stretching the
lace. and Utilities the points, which, notwith-
standing their fineness and value, have an old
womanish look, and are very difficult to wear
gracefully. The lace point Is turned upside
down. 30 that the straight top forms the bottom
OF the talma; the POINT below Is then ct the top,
and Is turned over from the neck and folded
into the perfect shape Of q hood, which Is held
In place by watered ribbon bows down the mid
die. The long ends at the sides are then each
caught up high on the breast under q ribbon
bow, and this leaves an open slit for each arm
to pass through. To drape . mantle in this
suitable way requires very little ingenuity after
once being told, and the stylish effect Is excel.
lent. =
THE NEW KILT PLATING.
pretty change 10 given to the long worn
and still fashionable kilt pleating by arranging
the r,leafa in 0rorrn Hor ;catS rSa ~, osaav