The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1873-03-17
FERNS $500 PER ANNUm IN ADVANCE.
The STYLES.

Openings at tie wholesale houses have dis
played spring millinery. The new bonnets
are not bonnets, says Harpers Bazaar, but
merely round hats with strings. They are
Euu, picturesque, becoming. but of decidedly
;,S1Thsruous ~ shape, with large, square, sem
hr;,s crowns, accompanied by most fantastic
no 10 .. .urheu up on one side or the other,
~ matter which, behind or before inst az
~p.,ee o'Inn ulclates, and never twice alike This
dtsera dSeu, uli IS q feature, and in its VARIETY
oners something to suit all faces tn 49,
net is placed very far back mo,,1,t;,,e Ho ooh.
crown OF the high coiffure, and Iaan;Ts .,s .ns
u he front of the head bare. Tbasn Tbas's an
shapes are the outgrowth of the eccsn.r;S rrm
Rabagas bonnet worn during the winter.
Straw bonnets will be more worn than all
others. The choice among these is the fine
split Belgium straw, worth $5 so untrimmed,
the soft snowy white dressed chips, made Of
sewed braid, and the ecru. or undressed chip,
which costs from So upward. A new bonnet,
called the Valerie, /, made of silk floss, buff
or lavender, woven to resemble straw. This
is S. untrimmed. There are also quantities
oil black CHIP and soft black straw bonnets
sent out from the best French houses. These
are very light and fine, and when trimmed
with fine flowers and lace will be considered
more distinguished than the black lace bon
nets that have been worn SO long. -.-1
TRIMMING. fi.r
BY way of trimming there Is less lace than
usual, and ribbon is little used except for the
very long strings, which are three inches
wide, and tied under the chin. The princi-
pal garniture is soft repped silk. called gros
d dOrleans, cut bias, and arranged in single
careless-looking folds, with occasional bows
made OF many ends or loops, but with fewer
futings, quillings and streaming draperies
than we have lately had. Compactness
seems to be the idea IN decorations, even in
the fine flowers which will be used In a pro-
fusion that is positively extravagant; for
these are no longer clamoring vines and long
trailing sprays, but thick wreathes and mel
anges, boquets of 'rious flowers grouped in
contrasting hues. Two, three, and even four
shades appear in one bonnet; two shades are
OF one color, and the others N contrast.
Thus there are folds OF two tints of blue-gray,
with folds of the new lmon color-the pae
greenish-yelow of limes-and wreath OF
pink roses or else two light olive shades are
associated with deepest blue 5 Tx aud very
pale tea-roses; another combination s GRIM
son roses. light and dark reseda reps. with
white folds. An elaborate face trimming Is
seen on all bonnets. This consists of thick
wreath OF flowers or a torsade OF ribbons,
placed directly above the the forehead ahd
under the upturned revers or high coronet,
or, if you like, all around beneath the whole
brin of t e bonnet. The pretty ruches of
/
becomingly have disappeared from French
bonnets.
NEW FABRICS. diig s3l-a
In addi'i ion to the fabrics before mentioned
during the last week, there have been ex-
ceedingly heavy importations of Siciliepnes,
pongees, challies, French and Irish poplips,
and medium quality of silk, in all the late
and many new and beautiful shades of color.
Sicilienne, according to Leslie's Lady's Jour
nal, is material which, in general appear
ance, very strikingly resembles Irish poplin,
but being of soft woollen woof, under the
finest silk warp, is lighter, more flexible, and
drapes more gracefully. The latest style of
Sicilienne is in satin stripes of self color, AMI
this will be popular for over dresses. The
silks alluded to are of lighter quality than
the gros grain; they come in all the soft col
ors and shades now given to silks and other
dress fabrics, are from twenty to twenty-four
inches in width, and sell at from 50 to 81 so
per yard. A dress very lately from Paris had
a skirt of shade which approached Norvege
or Norway gray, with a polonaise of very
light, grayish-green satin-striped Sicilienne.
The dress was for the promenade and very
slightly en- train. The skirt was trimmed
with narrow bias aounces of the Sicilienne,
the dounces being finished with a bias fold
set on with piping of the silk. The upper
most f1ounce had for heading drapery
putting, and at the sides handsome bows, W tn
ends OF the Sicienne cut bias and finished
with a fold and piping. The polonaise was
trimmed up the front with wide bias folds al
'ternately of the Siciienne and the silk, with
fancy silk buttons more than an inch in di-
ameter fastening it up; at the back there -as
but one complete width, and the general effect
given more that of one end of an immensely
wide side sash than skirt. The LOOPING w.