The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-07-08
A Look Over the Overlook
Mountain.
BRDS-EYE AND MOUNTAIN VIEWS.
Hotels Above the Clouds-Mountain Air and
Appstite-A German Philosopher on Top
teal Hunger" Poetry Of Several
Thousand Feet Above the
ses-Hotsl CLERKS and
Strained Eyes-Go-
ing Gothamward.
WOODSTOCK. N. Y. July 6. 1873.

The terrible heat OF the dog days being upon US
residence at a considerable elevation above the
TIDE ia iavorite and very frequently successful
method OF enjoying comparative GOODNESS. In the
Vicinity Of New York city there are considerable
latu al restrictions upon the pursuit of this rising
b the world to anything like an Alpine extent. Our
Mountains are not very lofty, and like all moun-
sains are only moderately handy for transient
visitors The Adirendacks are only just emerging
- it were, from savagery, shall leave them to
the enthusiast OF sleeping under canvas, and con-
Inc myself to the 'rising ground" whereOn lndlte
ulese random notes.
THE CATsKILLs.
It is Irresistible with writer's, when they ind
themselves on an American mountain or In
IN American valley, by an American lake, or
sailing on an American river, to hook in little
romance about the vanished glory OF the red man
and the poor prospects OF his race even for exist
ence nowadays. Region of shallow regret let me
Aot wake one OF thy uncertain echoesI The side
spring gaiter Is so much at home In these grand
hills that o moccason, If SEEM would be eagerly
Erasped at by the hotel keeper for his museum.
Fenimore Cooper has done enough Tor the red
skins OF the Empire State The mythical has just
rs great hold on the imagination as the histori
cal, and Rip Van Wrinkle, instead OF the Indian. is
the spirit that claims most homage among these
mountains. Here on the summit Of Overlook
Mountain sit,
UNTRoUBLED EITHER BY THE INDIAN OR THE DUTCH
MAN.
and kick my heels against the ledge OF hoary rock
while survey the marvellous sweep OF the valley
or the Hudson that spreads itself out SO gOriously
beneath. Trusting 10 powerful field glass instead
Of my weak imagination, scan the world at my
Ieet or, laying down the lorgnette, listen to the
perpetual wave Of the wind among the trees. One
lorgets that 1t Ia scorchngly hot about three thou
sand feet below. At least it Is hard to imagine
that II one where else, he would be swell
tertng and longing insatiate for the specious cool
ness Of iced drinks. l state this to indicate that
the human being who rejOices more in avoiding
possible pain than IN experiencing positive pleas
ure Is O specimen unfit to be catered for. Yet
these
PHABIsEEs OF RECREATION
Are to be found even on mountain top, with
their overweening circumstances and their
bumptOus announcements that they are not as
other people. The Calskill Mountains lie partly in
Ulster and largely in Greene county, and are ex-
tensive enough to give the eye all 1t wants Of
grandeur. The Oldest Mountain House ia the
well-kept caravavanserai OF Mr.. Beach, to be
reached via Catskill. Its attractions well
known. They include magnificent valley view,
although 1000 feet lower than the Overlook. The
mountain view is necessarily limited by the want
Of elevation. Nine host, the proprietor OF the
Overlook House, says with emphasis, that he can
seat o man at his table seven hours after quitting
New York. This Is barely possible. 1t requires
series of connections that should not fail in any
particular, and that Is than usually happens.
However,
EIGHT TO NINE HOURS
ls not long journey, when the difficulties are
taken into account BY train to Rhinebeck on the
Hudson; thence by ferry to Rondout; thence by
roll to West Hurley, brings within three hours
easy staging of the mountain top. This Is tedious
because Of the slow progress made. The steepness
ana the detours necessary account for this. The
run down again shows how one Is deceived In dis
lance. This ride upward has one compensation,
namely, the gradual GOODNESS which deciously
succeeds the heat OF the valley. source OF irri-
sation ndgety people is the fact that after cav
Ing the pretty little hamlet Of Woodstock behind
Tou DO not catch glimpse Of the MOTEL haven
until you are within couple OF hundred yards OF
Il. The trees which this season clothe the noun
tans with thick ambrosial mantle Of green
smbower the road and cut on nearly all the
view. At last the driver points ahead, and the
white front OF the hotel CLEANS out amid the
naples, oak, FIR and hickory, and in a moment you
have alighted. You may pause to register your
name or look alter your baggage but, II you drink
glass Of mountain spring water and walk straight
out on the piazza, you Will have added
PEERLESS SENSATION
to your experiences. snail premise that the day
u clear Walk straight to the little plateau Of
rocks in front of the piazza and look down and
to the south. The mountain seems to open out at
your feet, like the trough OF q giant wave, with
great bilow OF green on either side. II looks almost
as though 1t were meadow that stretches down
to the valley, instead OIL a verdant carpet made
from the waving tops of the forest trees. Now
look beyond out upon the valley whittier the slope
OF the green wave leads your eye. There lies
THE VALLEY OF THE HUDSON.
To the left the broad river nows like surface OF
polished steel in the 1t is not dwarfed by the
height, but is the majestic river still. Towns,
hamlets, villages, homesteads fields, streams and
woods glow Overwhelmingly upon the eye Across
the Hudson which seems near you may look
beyond the border line of Massachusetts,. In The
distance Kingston and Rondout CLEAN whitley in
the sun, and from this height you can barely be
sensible that there is line of hills between you
and the now united towns. With field glass you
can see to Poughkeepsie Fancfully the plain here
looked to lady traveller
LIKE PATCHWORK.
sThe dark green OF the woods" said she, "is IKE
the original color and the golden fields and white
houses seem like the patchings OF man on a gar
ment made long ago by Godn
Improved have little doubt, she believed. BY
walking round the piazza
YOU SEE THE MOUNTAIN GROUPS
with their heads In the sky in every shade from
the green of the to the rich deep purple
OF those farthest away You want TO them
when the sun is setting get you to your and
prepare for your meal.
THE HOTEL
is plain structure, without much attempt at out
ward show. Its internal arrangements are fair,
but NOT in all things exactly what YOU would ex-
pect ut first class hotel in New York. When you
zee 30 much that Is brought and provided for the
comfort OF guests at 30 much trouble you won
der why little more foresight IN design OF the
building, and O little more enterprise every way,
were not included to make the thing complete
One can be comfortable here, and even iuxurisus
but occasionally little hitch in the arrangements
makes you regret that more was not accomplished
There Ia one popularity here which people In val.