The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-03-21
The Grand Opening Day in
the Metropolis.
The MOdiSteS and the Multitude Of Sight.
Seers at the Leading Houses.
TASTE IN DRESS.
The Newest Styles in Bon
nets and Hats.

Opening Day in the fashion world, whether 1t re-
fers to the Spring season the FAN, Is an exceed
ingly uncertain date-worse, even, than Septua-
gesima or Corpus Christi in the Catholic calendar.
There, indeed limits are placed to the extension
In date of these religious Observances; but fashion
claims an indulgence OF time which renders it very
difficult for chronicler Of styles to select proper
date Tor the general opening. Yesterday was
chosen by o number Of first class houses as fit
occasion for o grand display OF Spring fashions.
The Indictment weather had no effect upon the
pardonable enthusiasm which the fair sex display
at this season, when the tickle goddess holds her
semi-annual levee. Broadway was thronged with
carriages, and many clOaked and well-muf1led
form passed through the heavy folding doors that
mark the entrance to our merchant palaces
On Sixth and Eighth avenues those busting
thor0ughfares, well stocked with hives of industry,
there were less carriages and more people. 1t
as difficult to get near counter In some Of the
west side stores as it was to obtain good view Of
agrand marshal on ST. Patrick's Day. Then there
was the ceaseless hum OF business in the BOwery,
that remarkable locality, where modesto to quote
her own words, 'has special display of fashions
on every day In the year." Expressions Of salts
faction and disappointment were equally apparent
yesterday among the many ladies who went to see
what was to be seen-dissappointment on account
ton for the freshened appearance Of old favorites
Quite revolution has taken place In fashions
within the last few years. There was time when
Paris ruled New York quite as much Bordeaux
or Marseilles. But Gu0ns change tout celia.
The fall of the Empire and the stormy interregnum
which preceded the epoch OF tranquility and peace
under President Theirs brought many an Ameri-
can feminine mind to a sensible frame of reason
ing in regard to fashions. There were discussions
and developments in respect 10 the exact meaning
OF Partisan supremacy in fashions. Many pinned
their faith to the idea that the worthy Eugene
was not only Empress OF France, but was also the
sole dictatress OF Partisan fashions. But when,
thanks to thus age Of embellishments and rapid
communication, they discovered that in many in
stances the worst characters In the French CAPT
tai and the least patronized milllners there made
business Of supplying the American market in the
all-impOrtant question OF "what TO wear and how
to wear itn the wrath of our bellies brought
around better state OF reasoning, and, OF course
our own naodfstes were not long IN discovering the
change. Now we believe there is more real original
ty displayed in the leading houses of this city than
there Is IN many OF the Wanted centres of fashion
on the other side OF the Atlantic
AMERICAN TASTE IN DRESS.
The absence this season OF uncouth extrava-
gances in styles and materials will he convincing
argument in favor of the progress made here in
this respect within the last few years. Adaptable
ity and convenience have taken the place of what
once was known as mere fashion. American ladies
refuse to become rights because some nobody
across the water dictates 1t. One may wander
through large establishment nowadays and find
no two dresses or bonnets alike. Every shade Of
compile xion, every figure and every popularity of
appearance In lady can be suited in the multitu-
dnOus array Of styles and materials that are dis
played this season. There exists no longer a rule
ana tape measure Tor the outward decoration OF
the daughters OF Eve. Independence in fash
ion has come, better late than never, as
q successor to independence of thought. The
importers feel this fact keenly and trim
their sails accordingly. A great deal OF altering
and aaapting Is resorteu 70 before ilnported Styles
All homer to our ladies for their spirit and indie
pendence in bringing around such state OF things.
No pateramilias can gruinble now when his money
is SO judciousiy laid out.
fitting BONNETs
Tie complete transformation In the style OF
couture has demanded similar change in the
chapeauX IN order to meet the eXigencles OF the
case; but yet this does not appear so much In the
shapes as in the manner OF wearing them AS the
question lay between having them tilted over the
eyes or enjoying good, open outlook, it has been
shall the majority OF the bonnes, well as the
hats tilted on the back Of the head IN true sailor
fashion. To most faces this Is decidedly unbe-
When bonnet is placed little far back on the
head 1t is not SO bad, as the strings afford some re-
lief at the sides but hat thus worn has nothing
to redeem It, Ii Is said that this manner oil wear
ing the hat was introduced abroad by beautiful
woman, who was content to TOOK little less beat
tiful herself in order that those who she was GER
tain would follow the style might look hideous
Let any lady VINO is tempted to sacrifice her ind-
vidnal tastes and conditions in this matter to u
caprice OF fashion Just ponder moment on the
above statement, and then arrange her chapeau
lace.
setting aside the manner of wearing them, the
chapeaux OF the season are some OF them very
beautiful. Fanclful they may be, but harmony Is
essential in the toilet and as long as We continue
to use such an amount OF trimming ON costumes,
lancllul bonnets and coiIfures must be expected.
Straw promises to be more fashionable even
than last year. All our favorltes renewed, ana
host OF others, accompanied by some new
varieties in the way Of fancy and embroidered |
shawls Soft ecru CHIP is novelty, and will prob |
ably be cheaper than the white. Colored straws
a1S hA va rff
shades Of olive, brown and gray Straw trimmings |
are also revived in many beautiful designs.
Lace will be used to an almost unbOunded ex- !
tent. Long lace brides are revived either to be |
tied under the chin or fastened lower down with |
BOW or small bouquet as they were several seasons
a pity that 1t should ever be renounced. Very |
few ladies past taeir first youth can afford to do
without strings OF some kind, and lace ones have |
wonderfully sOtening effect on the complexion. A |
lace veil or some other trimming Is disposed at the
where the chignon did erst~hle abide. But |
THE GROWING LONELINESS
OF the bennets this season rests In the flowers. |
They are simply perfection, so natural IN their APP
pearancc and delicate In their hues that one almost
expects to inlale subtle perfume while admring
them All tile graceful dropping flowers are ar
ranged in long, trailing sprays, while the more dig
nihed varieties are fnsssed in bandeaux or bou- |
quets. Flowers will be n"eur, and ne one can
the montures are leaves oil silvercd bronze, which |
look nice on straws; others composed OF larger |
and heavier flowers have ornaments OF oxidiLed |
silver mingled with the leaves. Handsome buckles |
and pins OF the same material are much used In |
with silk ana velvet.
1t Is essential In both hats and bOnnets that q !
narrow appearance at the SIDES shall be main
tanned. Most usually the trimming Is massed ia
the back or the front, or IL may be placed little
to the right or left OF ether but the effect be
narrow at the sides, so as to harnOnlze with the |
present style OF arranging the dress.
Hats and bopnets are still 40 intimately con- |
nected as in many cases only to require q pair OF |
strings TO designate them. The Rabagas Is still |
leading shape. the brim variousiy indented to suit
the ancy When in straw this requires very little
but 1T Is usually made in SILK to match
the costume in which case the crown is soft pull
The most distinct style OF hat Is MODIFICATION or
the stately Rubens, with high recedng crown,
and the brim turned up side.
In bODnetS proper most OF the shapes have rolled
frnnfS and the crOMua. while rather high.