, 1873-12-13
Vatican Prevailing Over
Worth's Operatie Equip
1nents.
Costumes In New FaVOr--An In
novation in Wnllfing-
Boots.
From Our Oln41 Correspondent.

soem very 0ifferont from tholr won't during tho
limo Of neutrality-suspicious.. There aro snndry
new goods, but tho old are artfully interminglod;
and, while tempting baits Of cloapnoss arc flung
In ones face at overy counter, the human fish
caught by them aro not seldom "victimizel,"
Ike their finny follows.
The holiday entertainments, this yoar, promise
10 bo simpler than usual, partly becauso we dent
want to apend much anyway, and partly becauso
Of deoidod though unoxpreBHed, feeling that
wo should be sparing toward ourselves and our
friends, Tor the sake OF an extra generosity to
The poor. think tho prospect Ia, that the suffer-
ing viii be loss this winter ttan III d more
widely-prosperous year. Everybody has It In
mind to give nll lie can possibly afford /; and
there arc nowly-formod charitable socloLies,
boaide tho old once, with practical workors among
tho members, and much private alma-giving.
Eovortholcss we mean to have Christmas Ms
happy ind bright AZ though no banks had fatled
and nouo Of our railways had defaultoa, aud as
though we could give jewels and art-goms i'll
place Of necdle-boots and pin-cushions.
Ordinarily, Metropolitans arc rather lavish,
not to say reekless In their presont"malsing,
and feel their restriction kecnl, but, on the
whole, accept the situation gracefully. On every
side you hear. 'tOhl Rhall make only useful
gifts this year luxuries must bc done without"
So dresses, furs, laces, shawla, fanolful neck
wear, all sorts Of articles OF apparel, in fact, rs
we'll az inexpensive souvenirs, will be in ORDER.
onnIsTMAs To1LETIEs
ere ps no hicans m ovefiooAsu :" 10 pluno', po.s'
Of economy. Ihey efe lesH elabofate' thou6h
prettior tlan hare seen them for many yoar.
Not ipfronuant1v tl,ey uro nerely combinations
4. NJ aoverai old Covnn hnt t]s dooa mt t1atroct
~ aosa. y.e so"a sa' l.., s' nses 10 ~,
from 1ne'f oeco"ue''css' which, ot coaiS'' 1n'
rludos beauty.
chrintmas-day, for tho first time in her now ca
pacity, is made Of white nilk and white cash-
mere. The Petticoat (entre nous. It han ap-
peared several seasons Ill various comolnat'ons
(glace), with . killing which appears to cover
the skirt entirely Conhdont!aliy, it reaches Q
trte above tho knoe ~ 'front.', put 10 1865 aeop III
the back. The oTersklre and waist ere cut Rome-
What Ike Gabriolie,-or, ~ it = called nowa'
plaits in the back, at tho wnist, and three deep
loopings. which. however. hang gracefully,
though rather tlatly, over the toufnuro. In
front 1t ia CLOSED nke the o'a dn-
brielle; but the broad band Of 3, swans .1la
down, bordering tho ovcr-skirt, rasses up t!le
front scam (wlloro 1t ia closed) and nronnd the
throat. The close coat-sleeycn OF n'Ek have
band OF down following tue square cashmere
over oves.dreas a thoagb quite long, does not reach
the bottom Of the deni-train by fourteen inches
behind, aud barely covers tho top OF tho killing
IN front; while, on The sideB, 1t is 1ooped very
higll; almost TO the hpa. AZ you aGe. me dreas
Altogether, think that tho most effective cos
tunes arc those that arc least trimmed.
GAZE DE cHAMnEnY;, j.,
Or what We should once have called shoor nllk
grenadine, striped tn aelf-shhdea or contrasting
nntR,, is popular again for polonaises, Which
everybody Olings to, despite tho Partisan fiat.
It Ia often made oyer silk of the shade Of one OF
the stripes. tue polonnlao aud al tho aIttrt-trlm-
m1lge being Of the thin goods. A charming
robe Of this description will DO finished IN
brief while. The silk is Nile green and the
gauze the aamo 8hade (the thin nnd thick stripe
being alike In hue), Of course triiie fnteEstied
by being over the silk. The skirt is covered
halfway up with hye-inch bias ruflics Of the
9ayr2e, edged with ValancienneB laee. (Ihis
doesn't suggest extreme penurv. loes it?) \
saAh OF single breadth Of tha thin stuff, edged
with lace, ii caught on the right hip with chnin
Of finoly-Rtrung. opalescent shells; is brought
gracefully round the train, and held low on the
left side by another chHin OF sholls. Tho waist
Of silk, with deep points boforo and behind, is
severed with bus folds Of the gauze, laid on
snrplice-faahlon, with ruchcs Of tho lace in tue
pointed neck, and half-howing sleeves, aud a
r11ille Of it round tho bottom Of the waist. Do
you think the shells little startling? They be-
long to the gown, which seems as If spun from
The froth Of the soa. 1t might have been de-
,igned for some Naiad of Fiftl, avonue bccauBe,
lfter ALL 1t belongs to the realms OF high nrt in
ssoad Of to Nature.
Another robe Of similar character ia moro to
nv fancy than tho preceding. Tho silk skirt Ia
white glace It 10 fohtooned with white tullo
Ill over the skirt, IN the most delicate mud
iudescrbable manner. The lnce il SO gracefully ar
ranged TINT it seems to have fallen WhoIo it lies,
md to be- held in placo but By few lunches Of
Whiet marabow feathers. The waist in round md
low, aud has short sleeves Of ails but scarf OF
:ulle ID carried over the shoulders no as to cotl-