Smyrna times., 1873-07-30
Perfumes.

From the middle ages up to the last century
musk, clvet, ambergris and lavender sum up
the best known and most popular perfumes.
1t Is only of comparatively quite late years
that the art has made so much progress and
been enriched by SO many knew ingredients as
we lind at present. Nevertheless, and in spite
OF all additions the base Of European flower
scents is contained in six flowers only, namely:
orange flowers, roses, jasmine, vioets, acacia
and tuberoseS. Others that have been tried
are found OF small use, and their special odor
Is best given by initiative compounds, as hello
trope Is initiated by vanilla dashed with aim
Onds, and so Oh. Add to these six bases
geranlum, lavender, rosemary, thyme and some
other aromatic herbs-the last three growing
chiefly on the mountains round Grasse, Nice
and Cannes, which are the principal European
centres for the mandatory of perfumes-add
also the peel of bitter oranges, of which the
fruit goes 20 make curacoa the peel of citrons
and bergamOtS, of which the fruit goes to feed
the COWS OF the district, and is good for the
milk ada musk, sandal wood, ambergris, and
gum benjamin; of later days add the leaves
OF the patchouli (pogOstemon patchouli, one
OF the lablatG) from India; winter green
gualthena prOcumbenS from the United
States; various Of the andrOpagons, which we
call goats beard in our own wild flowers, from
CeylOn: ihlang ihlang (unona odoratissima,
one of the alonace@) from the Philippine
Islands; wanda laerides suaveoens, and or.
chldl chiefly from Java, but from other places
too III the Indian Archipelago; frangipani
| Splumerla alba, one OF the apOcynace@) from
both the East and West Indies-snd We have
some of the principal sources whence our
scent-bottles are filled, and the delicate soap.
and pOmades perfumed. But still, whereso
ever the material is to be found, the Frenct
always remain the greatest producers and
save as regards few exceptional perfumes
as attar-gul for one, eau de cologne for anothe
are the best manufacturers of the sweet
scents which pervade the world.
They do an immense trade in perfumery
and England is their best customer, as Russi
is their worst. England took, in 1867, wher
this table was drawn up, 424, 500 kiOgramme
of perfumery, valued at 2,546,O0 francs
Russia only l3, 800 kilOgrammes, at the valu
of 79, 800 francs. After England comes Brazil
then Belgium, and then Spanish America
but even Brasil does very little more than hal
t the English trade, aud Spanish America les
than half. The United States took 81, 40
kilogrammes valued at 344, 400 francs; an
Austria only l4,60O, paying for them $500
francs. Germany, in spite of her own especia
/ industry at Cologne, took l07 800 kilogramme
spending GAG, 500 francs on her purchase bu
g 1t would be interesting to know what amour
g OF her own perfume she exports, and which
f her numberless Jean Marie Farinas has I'll
/ largest clientele. England does good trad
: in her own indigenous lavender water; but /
far the greatest proportion is exported, pc
e fumes like prophets, not having much hont
g in their own cOuntry-all that is foreign bein
, lnStlnctlvely preferred to what is home breC
S and the question of comparative excelpnC
: counting for nothing in the choice.-AH d
e Year Round.