New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-11-04
THE FASHIONS.
Autumn STYLES.

.xcIryr REGIME RgyIYRD-NEw REDiNGoIES
AND LADIES' yERCoATs-BmGHTER CoLoRs IN
yoGt-R-THE GABRIELLE DRESs-sTYLES IN RIB
BoSs-RENovATISG SILKS
The philosophy of clothes. ender the treat
ment OF Prof Teufelsdrockh, as translated oy o"rp
obtains an importance which cannot be oVerooA
"Clothes says the Professor. have given individually
distinction, social policy Clothes have maze men VI
usv The Professor maintains that all human earthy
interests are hooked mp aud snttoned togeenei
and held ND by clothes. Just now, In these trouDco
times, we profoundly echo TeufelsdrockD' VIM
finds world OF philosophy in old clothes NOT
withstanding this and much more ana ai'no"k"
ladies daily assure each other that they expect 10 10
perfect rights" this Winter Hew-York Is compeheu
70 be dressed however in some shape or other The
financial crash has rather demorazed taste In matters
of dress as the taste OF Paris In everything reans
TO the toilet is an essential OF New-fork NE; anu
"a France ia returning TO first principles IN medle'a
At yles NewYork awaits the result In the inater Vi Tvs
tume with the greatest anxiety The French mous"s
have already altered the sweep OF their cutting o
and now fashion the garments according 10 the sve
~ the ancient re gime; they arstocratc, scanty
ard narrow n skirts as can conveniently Walk IN
and have scarcely fold to hide the anatomy OF
humanity Therefore, why should one De cohueihueu "
the Professors old Clothes" when few new ones re-
cure absolutely SO little material and prices are 30
duced
And 30 Aphrodite dipped herself once moro INTO the
seo and returned with golden and scarlet DAYS OF
Autumn to Broadway and the Avenue as to resh neus
ann pastures new. What does she hndf For sleeves
tbere ia the stiff ungraceiul sleeve OF Catharne ue
Medci OF which the Medici frafse has been toferun'
ner One might as well be incased in arm0r 80 much 10
the symmetry OF the hidden In the stn pialts anu
pus there the chateaine bag for almOhy just ho"
called the au6ere suspended in chains OF Old chased
silver from the belt and to connect the quaint styes
Of hp Reau VI,
Henry Trois the OF Caharine in the perfectly NJ
ting basque without wrinkle or over the hips ana
the erect toque with pompon or ostrich tips IN 'front.' us
Stiffness in perfect conformity with tue other parts OF
the costume.
The two prominent styles OF basques are equally De-
coming equally elegant. The Catharine de Medici'
made OF velvet has silen collar curvng out like the
lin OF q sea SHE'LL inside ruff OF SILK This Is douoe-
breasted; the sleeves OF silk, exceedingly stun WIN
pIaitings at the wrists elbows TheHenry Ir0ls mt
ting exquistely to the shape is also doublebreasted
high az the throat The buttons are small, ana EN-
brodered according TO the latest STYLE by hand lhere
are little pockets on the outside simply pped TO cor
respond with the edge OF the basque. An exceedingly
elegant basque in yet another STYLE the Direcore this
having the masculine reCeTs connected TO the run, ana
descending from that deep square collar something III
the fashion of chidren's sailor collars The sleeves
close fitting have very stiff upturned cus All o the
very basques double breasted. very long, anu
made straight around over the UPS WIN bA1"S4"'
spring simple basque made OF less costly materials
Is double breasted and trimmed with two rows OF but
tons with high standing Medlci Jaise Another style
has little pockets ana rerers popularity of the new
basques is that elaborate the trimming OF the
skirt the basques with the exception OF the buttons ana
ruff, are entirely untrmmed II OF velvet, the cages
have q double piping OF silk, and the Guns,
sleeves, ran. and reUers OF silk. very hand
some jacket, close-iitling has double basques the
under ones pointed the tails of mans
coat the upper Stimulating Louis Kill, the pockets
large, fastened with three buttons. The basque Is
Plated In the middle, disclosing lining made OF some
delcateY tinted silk there is pointed BERTHE ana the
sleeves flowing from the elbow, richly trimmed to
correspond with the berthe and underbaque with ecru
braid aud lace. Still another jacket, exceedingly sty
sh represents in front Louis XIV vest ornate, with
braiiug in sken cord corresponding to the color OF
the material long basques form the side pieces, with
deep pockets front. while behind the basques are
shorter trimmed and buttons the yraiSe belng
of the same material tine jacket which Is eaboratey
braided sleeves, back aud shoulders IN large ara
besques recently imported dinner toilette had the
under.skrt trimmed with two very deep side-plaied
aounces the overskirt formed tabiier in 'front.' draped
into a large paner puff behind. This was all Oordered
with rersys in silk quilted in fine diamonds, WITH
scarf quilted 10 match caught mp in the back,
descending IN long ends pointed and completed win
large tassel the vest and jacket with deep cuffs aud
had the same uuteu LUIS SoStuhiO
was rich combination OF silk and cashmere IN warm,
rosy plumcoor.
The most convenient and economical article OF ward
robe Is the black silk skirt With 1t is worn any and
every style of polonaise redngoe, basque and over
skirt, OF any color, any fabric, plain or trimmed or
tlack silk peticOat may be varied with one OF black
finest mOhair or alpaca. The longmOoted question as to
trimming skirts has been decided amcaby that it is
left altogether to fancy of the The style OF
the past Is stu questionable that one can safely
recommend the taber covered with narrow fine, SIDE
plaited Hounces with nounces and large putf at the
back; crescenshaped folds IN velvet or SILK IN even
lines or groups, edged with massive Jet fringe mag
nceut visiting dress OF black grain had the bottom
OF the front trimmed with wide diagonal puifngs al
ernating with broad silk gaoOn thckly embroidered
with lets; the heading straight band OF tue gal
loon edged with black lace; above similar trimming
reached the edge OF the rounded deep baques in front
loOped high at the sides and fastened behind
by broad sashes very deep Ounce at the back Of
the dress fell another from the paner puff formed by
the sashes The trimming the body OF the
basque simulated a fchu in beaded gaoon and
lace Another superb dinner dress of lotos
gray in two shades; the front wide, seanty
nounce above the same width of nounce in five
close side plaitDgs narrower scanty hounce above
this was headed by plated trimming caught down at
regular intervals by large grain ribbon OF the same
shade in bows with ringed ends The back covered
with box plated hounces set rather far apart the fourth
finishing at the side with large bow. The rounded
overskrt was gracefully draped at the Sides the basque
trimmed with cords OF silk and large mother-ofpearl
buttons Another style OF skirt trimmed alike, both
front and back with deep side plated hounce over
which fell at the heading gathered narrower hounce
band OF faie separates this from two standing rues
bound with faille shade lighter This costume Of
cashmere. the redngote being simply trimmed at the
edges with bias band OF ghter-hued aille and
mented with oxidzed silver buttons. Unlimited lati
tude IA allowed in trimming. Gathered silk hounces
may be bound with velvet rolled like thick cording
That American tastes differ from French is shown IN
the models OF imported costumes above described,
frt,o