The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1873-10-03
Fall Fashions.
IRON the New York world.l

Flowers and masses of foliage are the
choicest decorations for the head, and
each year brings new excellence in their
limitations. They will be worn on bon
nets this season perhaps more than ever
before. Roses of light crimson and of
warm tints with deep purplish buds of
largest size will be seen everywhere,
with clusters of long-stemmed small
buds, and wreaths of every color.
Plumes shaded so finely that the work
on each must be done by hand with hair
pencils are the most expensive trimming
for bonnets.
Ostrich feathers curled in flat rings
over the quill are worn as face trim
ming, or laid on the outside of bonnets,
with willow tip dropping behind.
Cockades and pompons are worn right
in front of hats. like the aigrette on the
Shah's cap, but this within has taken too
rapidly to last. Ornaments of diamond
steel are made in every shape, but taste
can only tolerate them when half hid
den by dark plumes and puffs. In most
novel forms are daggers of gray and
polished steel thrust through the huge
knots of velvet that are used instead of
bows.
All these fancies are side by side with
the same designs in Jet, or in Jet edged
with steel, which sets off both materials.
Steel daggers with jet handles and buck
les of Jet beaded with steel are hand
some additions to millinery ware The
ornaments of plain and beaded Jet ale
so graceful and various that one does
not know what to mention.
High coronets, more like tiara fronts,
of fancy jet fringes are seen on expen-
sive carriage bonnets. Much prettier
is the beaded jet, like coral sprays, to
be wreathed among coquilles or shells
of lace
For morning there are coronets of foil
age in plain and twilled silk, beaded on
the edge with lace, jet intermixed. Ivy
leaves of the three materials in one
group, with large berries of cut Jet, are
very handsome. Designs representing
strap-end of jet, held by steel buckle
and tongue, are novel and good; so are
the ornaments in q union of blue and
cut STEEL which are admitted in very
light mourning.
A transparent hat from Virot' Shame
of grace in bonnets-is of black thread
lace, with rouleau of twisted gros grain
ribbon of wild rose tint passing entirely
round under the brim, tied behind and
falling in long ends. In the pleating of
Chantilly which forms the diadem, not
quite in the center, is rose of softest,
exquisite shading, a miracle of natural
ness, its old foliage glossy and deep, its
fresh leaves of pale green not out of
their folds, and new bud timidly show
ing line of pink through its sheath.
A carriage bonnet of sultana velvet is
trimmed with deep-shaded plumes fall
ing over the soft crown and twist of
sultana silk to the right, a bandeau of
violet leaves in dark tinting about the
crown, vailed by rich thread lace with
the least possible fullness, q rouleau of
velvet in ruche of black lace, front.
and long loops of sultana ribbon fall
ing behind under piece of the finest
Chantilly lace.
The Daphne is q favorite shape, of
which it can only be said that it is high
and close to the face. A home model is
of ink brown velvet with pale rose ia
cling the soft crown has a fiat band OF
rose foliage just bronzed by autumn,
mixed with seed-vessels of hedge plants;
two large fans of lace spread over the
soft crown; mixed loops of velvet and
gros d'Orleans droop behind, and the
long end of the rose garland falls over
a lace scarf. At the right is a bouquet
of pink, pale, and crimson rosebuds,
with cluster of smaller ones dropping
from long stems under the lace. 1t is
delicacy of the mode to place all flow
ers in this way, half hidden by loops OF
lace, and Virot, whose cachet is indis.
putable, draws fold of lace completely
over her bouquets of charming roses
A single bud, with leaves in close
ruche of lace, is the face trimming of this
bonnet.
Some French hats were trimmed il
compact fashion, without drapery o.
any kind. A diadem of bronzed satir
leaves, or four-looped bow tightly
drawn, of silk, was the face trimming
plumes added height to the crown anC
fall at the back. In one or two tn,
back was covered by band of flower.
thick as could be set eccentric, yellow
and red-veined pansies, with few blacl
ones to complete the harmony.
Dulh " DltSo SIttll Mus WlUll UWlSIs
of Nile green and plumes shaded from
one color to the other; invisible blu,
velvet wound and faced with turquoise
with plumes to correspond ; brown vel
vet and flesh pink green and pink
dark blue and lemon warmed by groseill,
roses, will be combinations often see1
during the season. High comb-piece.
of velvet at the back of bonnets are yer,
stylish when the mantilla vail is drapec
over them, but are only becoming in full
toilet
After her bonnet a lady buys he
gloves, and for elegance these must cor
respond to shade with her dress
Dark blue will be leading shade tc
match the gros blue in cloth and silk
Invisible colors of all sorts are in hand
corresponding to every caprice or dis
tinction of shade. Cypress, ivy, and
tea-greens of the darkest sort, dee,
greenish states, and the deepest leader
grays, find favor; and there is a chanc,
of being suited among forty differen
shades OF brown. Earth-brown, snuff
colors, olive-browns, filbert and mahog
any hues, and all light nut-browns are
IN season, and each very distinct from
the other when side by side.
Noisette or light wood-colors are the
visiting gloves recommended for gentle
men and theater wear not in full dress
The standard shade for evening is laven