New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-05-31
THE FASHIONS.


season are exceedingly dainty and fresh. A toninS
down OF all brightness is more than ever discernDie'
The different shades OF one color are undmlmsheuin
variety; In violet beautiful nterminglng Oh ShaueS
ranging from tho deep Tyrean royal purple W ''o
rosy mauve that frames the pansy' Hot"i'u'''HeIo
the baokwardness OF the season, the te" ueIoou 10Y
have enjoyed have brought forth the May ho"ei :"
not only fresh costumes but new Oonnets oolc VI 'o
Summer bonnets are so exquistely fabricated that IL
difficult 10 believe them the work OF mortar
fingers. The style OF bOnnets az the style OF trih
ming differs greatly this There IL no stereo'yPou
mode heretofore. Dress bOnnets have proiusoh Vi
flowers masses Of exotics Of as great variety as you
would present 10 your friends N cullng bouquet V~
your garden, . $780, 3-.Ss-' -
But hats havo q simple bunch OF cut flowers
with long stems tied together with wisp OF
oats, straw a bramble of wild rose fastened at tine
SIDE Others have the covered with beautiful
of yiOlets Of pansies, or Of heotrope WITH
out ntermixture. The Victoria an exceedingly quaint
yet coquettish shape made s debut month ago, copied
from the fashion plates Of the beginning Of Victoras
reign, Offering immense contrast TO the
French Rabagas and sailor hat which nave
a rakish, half-tipsy air exceedingly demoralizing
to comely American face. The Victoria has at least
the appearance of modesty is really Quakerke in its
simplicity and grace, and absolutely affords some proec
ton 20 the face and head The brm projects ratherke the
hood OF phaetonand isaeedlwith silk-black chosen'
and pIped with another color the sides come nearly 70
the ears and are tied down Gpsy-fashion; there Is
abundance OF room inside the front for the high couture
and the crown Is sufficiently high for the comb The
trimming is of large fiat bows Of ribbon, feathered
airete and petite flower or two are set against the
crown The most ooquetsh face losses its pquancy ID
bonnet devoid Of shade unless peepng from beneath
the drapery fringed canopy OF paraso; broad
brmmed hats are only intended for Vatican shepherd
esses in pastoral resorts Naturally straw Is the
most suitable material for the Victoria.
pretty travelling or morning bonnet was made
of gray chip trimmed with black velvet,
straw trimmings of the same color, and white field dai-
sizes. Another snowy chip literally mass Of Yio-
lets decousy perumed, black velvet ribbons and black
lace scarf These styles be with any costume,
80 with black lace bOnnets but II one needs bonnet
made Of turquoise sk-ths is soft twllled silk-to
match costume in color it is necessary always to nave
beside bonnet OF straw black lace. Crepe largely
ntermixed with straw in bonnets and another novelty
is the making black frames hats Of white Gipure
and cr inserting and over white lace frames black
and eer gupure in alternate rows, frightened by some
charming bunch OF wild flowers such scarlet peoples,
Byzantine the pale pink hare bells or scarlet orange.
OF nasturtum mingled with the green Of geranium, or
bood-red blossoms Of pomeTanate.
To the delicious profHsion Of flowers there Is added
also revived passion for lace Lace strings to black
IaoeT bonnets, fastened below the chin with flower
ust the paeeheeked ones avoid yOles and green the
property of the blonde, who also approprates the blue
forgetmenOs and delicate corn flower Tor string adorn-
ment but the salow face borrow flush from NOISY
pink buds and brilliant brune.tes can employ golden
eyed pansy. little spray Of mgnonette even scarlet
bud provided the color be not too vivid. While faces
nast their first youth need the soitengg Of Lace youth
need not dsdan its identifying influence But there are
ornaments for all tastes and all ages beside the flowers,
xrfd daily III a
ments of medieval styles ofsyer, jet and pearl
buckes and pins OF Jet, ilaTee gilt and bronze IL
every lady will be sufficiently strongmnded 70 resist
the temptations Of bonnets not suited to her pecua
stvIe and satsfy herself her individuality In com
pexion AND hair, she will arrive at the secret
of French perfection in toilet details, wherein
the plainest woman possessing that gift OF
tact and sense of fitness makes herself at
least attractive and fascinating How charmingy pas
toral are TO be the Midsummer fashions Nothing but
thin gray stuff or blue nen don't you know, ali covered
with tamboured work. like old-fashioned muslin cur
tans but it is the economy OF the thing don't you see
Women are coming TO their senses" SO fondly do men
deceive themselves But this premedtated rusticity
and simplicity only much dust. These beautiful
gray and buff thin robes baste costing as much as
SIS and another style still thinner of drab gray, or
eru like coarse canvas, is called cotton grenadine,
and into its meshes worked, in two or more colors
in cham stitch and satin stitch, palms and ferns
and lilies with bending stalks, floral vines and
little buds. This costs as high as $50.
Yet 80 pretty is it, one scarcely hestates Yet another
superb costume is of black silk canvas grena-
dine, richly embroidered in masses OF flowers and
vines in two shades OF purple floss silk. The Eer pol
onases and costumes embroidered IN two shades Of
linen thread dark and light; the darker gray and drab
batiste is worked with lighter color. In another
STYLE the embroidered nOunce turns the SKIRT the
skirt is worked all over with polka dots and trimmed
with Yak lace; the jacket matches the oyerskrt,
simulated vest formed by Yak inserting These quiet
coored dresses generally frightened by sashes and
bows Of vivid color Aquaint style is OF damask
linen unbleached with blue, red buff woven borders.
These trimmed with linen lace into which bright
thread Of color is interviewer. The dark ndlgo-blue
linen in polOnaises is rather snowy embroidered heavily
in white linen floss; the dark brown embroidered in still
darker brown preferable for the quiet tastes OF the
traveller. cheaper style in plain linen Is braided
with white, put in boxes low as &c. increasing in
expense in accordance with the Of work; thick
batste species Of linen in suits embroidered
rufles pockets cuffs and sashes in white floss, ranging
In price from so $40. Batises, polka spotted,
sold for poonases with plain batste skirts very
much rufied. This material also comes lace-striped,
Grenadines also striped with satin and with Lace
pokadotted and damas figured, rivalng in popularity
the plain canvas grenadine, as new things will some
times make forget old favorites. Still many will cling
10 first affections. Plain grenadines made over or
ght-Atting, with short overskrt, trimmed at discre
tIOn black silk skirt was trimmed with two straight
grenadine 1Ounces made with alternate gathers and
three wide plaits, and for the heading wide bias puff
plated A little apron overskirt trimmed with
similar putting, and position basque was cut with
loose oOaseeyes For the street IL should be lined with
silk but for simple home dress and where GOODNESS Is
desired the silk lining OF the waist be cut low.
For travelling costumes, everything is made OF soft
fabrics; for inexpensiye spits dc baze is recon-
mended only 80 cents yard, requiring from 20 10 80
yards This is all WOOL thus defying atmospheric
changes will not shrink IS quite strong, and has been
a.fA nm Nv in he
COTE ooserOnted and belted back the personifcaton
OF comfort ana This Is doubebreasted has two
OF buttons, and large deep pockets and cus and
broad loOpedssash, which is confined by buckle and
attached to the left side. It is not necessarily loose