The New York herald., 1873-08-25
SARATOGA LATE AND MALVERN EARLY.
Places and Scenery by the Way, from
London to the Town of Hills
and Fountains.
The Water-Cures and Their
Treatment.

the world in that old sentence quoted by the Eton
Latin grammar "In temp0re dd cam Vent, qttod
Ona,aitun rey1Im est prifnum''-"I came to her at
fitting season, which is OF all things the i'm
! portant.n Come upon the belle with her hair in
cur-papers, the bishop in his dressing gown, the
dner-out learning anecdotes from commonplace
books and jokes from Joe Miller, with which to de-
| light the assembled crowds, and all your highly
wrought expectations disappointed. 1t is the
same with places. 1t has been my lot in my time
| to see some OF the great "shows' Of Nature and
| Art, and l declare that, with the excep-
| ton Of Niagara, none OF them came up to
ticpation. In some cases this dsappoin tment can
be accounted for by the fact that l visited them
at the wrong time. Take Saratoga, for instance.
proposed to 60 to Saratoga last September soon
after landing in New York. was told it was too
latei that the season was oyeri that ] should find
the place "played out" and that ought not to
Judge Of it in its glory by the mere fragmentary
remnants of splendor which should find. pleaded
In excuse that l could not get there before, and
that should have returned home before its gories
were renewed; that was bound to see Saratoga
as q far-famed American institution, and that II
could behold 1t in the "mild freshness of MORN
ing" would at least take stock OF 1t in 'evenng's
best light"
so started by way Of Albany and Troy, in a car
with one Of my countrymen, who seemed to have
crossed the Atlantic with the sole purpose Of see
ing West Point, and he worried our fellow passen.
gers to show II to him before we had well got clear
OF Spuyten Duyvil l don't recollect where we
changed cars for Saratoga, and l haven't my
Appleton handy for reference, but remember we
lay over an unreasonable time in Troy, and that
when we did get under way for Saratoga our pro-
gress was so remarkably mild and unostentatious-
we backed and shunted and sided and
switched, We rang much bell and blew Off so
much steam, we rolled along slowly and we
stopped often for the engineer to ask after his
aunt's health, or for the conductor to buy few
grapes for his bedridden grandsster, that /
began to believe the season was indeed over
at Saratoga and that the place was played out
long before got there. When reached the depot
there was no longer any doubt about it. The cars
had been playing about at their own sweet will so
long that we did not arrive until nearly midnight,
and only two or three hacks were waiting. AS
there were ladies in our party l made o rush to
secure one OF these, and being successful we were
| driven or to Congress Hail. Our entrance was
! sufnciently depressing. For days we had been
baking and broiling in New York. under the rays
of the most splendid sum- and though coming along
| in the cars we had been somewhat cooled by the
breezes from the Hudson, we had not noticed any
sensible difference in the temperature. But when
arrived at Congress Hall we found all the doors
Of mute worshippers have seen that idol and
its devotees hundreds OF times SINCE but that was
my first experience OF it and them. The
stove glowed and the ring fence OF humanity
encirclng it stared, and made my way past it
and them and consulted the clerk in the
Office as to rooms. Could we have any
Considering that the hotel holds fifteen hundred
people and there were about fifty staying there at
/ the time there was no ques ton about the posi-
bilty Of accommodation. But the clerk was very
short and sharp with me, and gave me to under
| stand-lf not by words, by looks and manner-that
he looked upon our coming there at such time in
the light OF a liberty. He also. took occasion to
remark that the house would be closed in two
days and that consequently our stay woula be
limited. They were evidently careless ABOUT our
impressions OF the magnifcence of the establish
ment and the best rooms were probably already
closed, for they gave US very mangey
little apartments, and declined to pay any
attention or~et we the bell and
desole;Xon," KIND Of feeling which overwhelmed
me Then magnificent colored gentleman, acting as
head walter, showed four OF US to table in room,
! otherwise empty, in which twice four hundred
| could have been accommodated with ease. 1t was
my first experience OF coored walters IN the United
States and to the last always found them the
quickest, best tempered. most truthful and most
obligng OF attendants.
Considering that this is meant to be one OF a
series OF articles on English watering places, and
that it is headed Malvern" do not quite under
stand why, thus far, have written about anything
the second days experience there. The next
morning discovered how utterly played out every
OF the Saratoga ees and saw ladies' Waking
about dressed almost as dowdily as an English
s 's and heard the cusses
the trottng wagons. put saw only
a 81 Sp9s gss nas0
campment, from which the Indians had wisely re-
tired, and the Circular Railway" which had
self with merely an outside view OF the Tempe Of
Chance which looks so modest, SO villa.like, and
while the ball IS a-rolling; can back the black or
the color or can fnd a private room for littie
Christian Association. Ali the springs, Columbia,
washington and Congress, were to be had for the
asking There one gets fried fried POI potatoes At the Lake
still conveying passengers on periodical trips, but
the place was clearly played out, and ned from it
In despair.
1t is obvious that the condition OF my brain must
Macedon and Monmouth ior the reason that there
is rider In each; but confess honestly that what
led me drifting into "reminiscences OF Saratoga
| when pledged to write about Malvern was not
merely that both are watering places, but that
visited each at the wrong time For, as Charles
ing late at his o1icia duties at Che India House.
replied that he always made up for It by leaving
early, so /, having arrived at Saratoga after
the season had terminated, made up for it
by arriving at Malvern before the season had
commenced IL Is Impossible however, to imagine
a lovelier journey than that from London to Nal
vern in the bright summer weather, or one tnrouga
| a country fuller OF more charming associations
The very starting point, the Paddington depot, is
In one OF the most aristocratic parts OF London I;
the carriages are better, the servants more civil
than on any other line. SO soon as we are outside
the banking lines of brick and mortar we come
upon green, sweet-sme eng suburbs the prettiest
among which Is Hanwell, where there Is a splendid
iunatic asylum, apropos Of which know good
story A gentleman travelling to London had been
annoyed ali the way by the talkatfveness OF .
fellow passenger, who would not be put down. As
they passed Han well thf garrulous man broke out
from the railroad" ut does indeed,n said the
prosecuted being; ''but pray tell u.s. sir, how does
the railroad look from the asylum !" The man said
no more.
BRAUTfEs WE PASS.
Further on we catch our first glimpse Of windsor