New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-08-15

who may called the hnphaoi vi n'ut ~. %arld
We :" was mozart The German genius came 70
steal the secrets Of she Lawn genus can M deSerbs the
soiennify OF the Miserere! Tao night advances lac
Basca IL In daISness there ner enertes the uncertain
hght OF dawn, which seems TO deepen inc shadow We,
lie 'f me cathedral resembles an immense mausoleum
with the cleaning Of funerea torches IN the as
m h a sub ime choir admirably combined. Now u comes
like Inc fai-lG roar Of the tempest, the vibration OF
tonbs: again ike lameutaton from the depths OF the
earIh or q moaning OF Heavens angels breaking into
gtg1utie and of dazzling whitcDess. are not
Completely hidden by the darkness, but appear
like the spirits Of past ages coming out Oh
the scpulChers and loOSng their srouds to join the i
tOuaton this eautce of despair The Whole church Is
atated vibrates II words Of horror we're arising
from the stones. This profound and sublime latnen t
mourning of bitterness dying away INTO airy efcieS,
the voice OF Rome suppleatlnS Iteiven ~ ~" a. ~ doth
ashes as under her sackclOth she WIlhed III Hor IA
agony TO weep thus, TO lament as the prophets Oh o
by the banks OF Edphrates OF aL0mE nod dance he
stones OF the temple, 10 sigh IN tins sublime caueoe' NJ
comes a City whose eternal soTow mas not mai @
eternal beauty Thus she Is ensaveu ID neopaed
can her poet. Her cantlcle is nligesuc anu
Rome Rome toa @ and thy abandonment The
human heart shall be thy eternal altaT, athousn ny
connuests mat made thy greatness have depatteu
None can rob thee Of thy God-Si M viii
inv Pontifs have sustained, aud when tiny arus'S WIN
forever preservel
Every tourist who has escaped from the eceieSiaS-
tical gloom and oppressiveness OF the roman atnos
phere will sympathize with the author In ms ske'ch
of the contrast presented by the free ana giadsoo
life of Naples The comparison begins with the Cam
MAGMA of Rome and the Campagna of Naples. In the
one is unity in the other variety. This is sublime
and that is beautiful. Here the majesty, ana there
the grace. In Rome is heard the melody OF lament
like the psalmody of the Biblical prophets
in Naples the choir of the ancient ureek
diyinities. But if the contrast Is great
between country and country, it is still greater
between city and city. In Rome there reigns sad
ness and silence Its inhabitants seem to look upon
darkness Their faces have certain solemn gravity
like that of a sovereign but dethroned race. The
innumerable converts the multitudes of monks, the
channels which arise on all Sides the endless din OF
the sonorous bells, all show that the Romans are
people subject to a theocracy. In the streets OF
Naples on the contrary, the continual cries which
resound on every side, the gay groups which stand
at every corner the dances hand and the con-
certs on the other, the crowds Of people winch
throng the water-stalls and Cafes remind you that
Won are in secular city where life is constant fes-
tival There is no longer the same number OF re-
hpious pictures You are not haunted by infant
Jesuses and naked John the Baptists. For the
image Of the Savior they have substituted the por-
trait of Garibaldi. Those who are fond OF clamor
and hustle rush to Naples The foot-paths all sup
port traffic. Upon all these are little shops and
stalls sometimes sleeping people. as motlonless as
corpse. A thousand small organs, harps, and
violins distract the ear. Crowds of puppet-
PLAYERS, rope-dancers, and conjurers, with their
circles of open-mouthed admirers, throng
the thoroughfares and embarrass the passengers.
The workmen sing dispute with each other In loud
voices The idle, when they have no one to speak
to- talk noisily to themselves The coachmen
vocferate furiousy as they dash along in all direc-
lions, throwing up clouds of dust.
Every mule wears hundreds of buttons and little ing,
ling bells. The carriages creak If creaking was the
object their construction The sellers OF newspapers
and in general all itinerant tIaders Shout ia tne
astonishing manner Every tradesman at the door Oh
his shop or over his stall makes ponpons oral pro-
gramne OF his rich merchandise begging every stranger
TO purchase. The seller scapulares without knowing
s6yn 1a OF y SL e no matter Whether
your boots dim or shining, rubs them over Win
nowerseler who carries bundles of roses ana orange
blossoms, adOrns your hat, your buttOn-hoes, your
iemonade-maker comes out with flowing glass when
he places at your lips. scarcely nave you Heeu
yourself from his importantly when another tormentor
Spproa ches with pan OF hot cakes, fried in OIL which
he asks You 10 eat whether you will or no. The children
accustomed TO mendicy, although Their pumpness ana
indicative of proper feeung, seize you
6y the knees and will not allow you to advance III you
have given them some money. The fisherman draws
near with costume the color Of sea-weed. barefooted
his trowsers tucked up exposing his brown legs ms
opening oysters ana other shel-sh, and presenting
them 10 you II by your orders. The cicerone goes
Vulnerable phrases in all languages, and full of
anachronisns and fasehoOds. historical and artistic.
III you dismiss him. il you say his services are useless he
will talk of the peril you i'll Of losing your purse or
your life having listened 10 his cOunseS or been
attentive his astonishing knowledge DO not fancy
you get oat OF al tins 1y being III crrlage inVe
never people jump upon carriages more quickly, or
stand upon STEP follow cngIng to the BACK or Ia
any part regardless OF your dispeasnre But III yot
have the OF newly arrived Traveller they wiz not
cage a carriage their choosing. In half second
are surrounded with vehicles which encompass you like
terpeuts risk Of crushing you, whose drivers speak
all distraciing and 1rghtfnl jareon offering to
take you Posihppo, to Ba9 10 PoIzuo 10 Castelia-
mare, TO sorrento, 10 Cue, 10 the emu 0i Creation
The impression that the population of Naples does
not labor is incorrect. They shout, they sing, they
ecsticulate they dispute but they labor, and with
much toll and little profit. The people temperate
as the ancient Greeks A handful of figs, some
slices of melon a few cucumbers, tomatoes, and raw
red peppers with cookies from the bay, form the
chief part of their nourishment. They are not ad-
dicted to wine or strong liquors, but If fresh
water should ever fail them, there would be
luton in Naples The minute description which
closes the account OF Naples has almost tde fresh
ness and power Of the natural landscape.
Let US give curse YES up to the contemplation
OF This beautiful paiorama OF dne Imp qua ana
We arc in the last days OF April. me green
and the heavens smile joytuy. Toward the east the
crests Oned against the clear azure OF
the sky are the Apennines sometimes vanishing In
clouds again appearing IN the ether; before us, to-
ward the shore at the northeast j. the uncat+d pyra-
mid OF Vesuvus whose sides, composed OF lava and
metallic rocks dark CRYSTALS the light shows shades OF
violet blue and lilac. which almost magical near
the volcano, OF beautiful and verant hills, is
Cape Cdmpanela the borders OF the sea, among
groves OF and lemon trees Of oak trees and figs OF
laurels and myrties are Casteamare and Sorrento,
white as doves toward the central curve OF this vast
amphitheater, urs the solitary ruins OF PonPel tnen
those thcky peOped villages OF Porcl ana Tore del
Greco surrounded with lovely country seats and bloom
ing gardens extending for many leagues toward the
west Naples, among her whalyes OF commerce, where
hundreds, and boats In thousands