The New York herald., 1873-07-19


masculinity), but told them no. that had an en-
gagement, not even mentioning my destination
iul sensation alone. Az my driver neared the spot
and pointed out the locality visions or all the most
overwhelming and stupendous spectacles nature
affords fasaed before me IN the most In.
congruous combinations. ! topped grandeur
on grandeur IN order that l might lore
aste boreos ~ IN the Cave or Ksn"cky e Nara
sheeted with lire, or the storm described by victor
Hugo in "rhe Toilcrs OF the sea- taking place on
one OF the great steppes OF ASIA or an earthquake
and whrlwind simultaneously experienced WITHIN
the crater OF Mount vesuvius. WneD, towards the
close Of bright afternoon, my driver stopped his
horse beside rail fence and offered to show me
the way determined TO go alone. mOments =
reflection however, convinced me that IT would
not be safe. had read OF persons OF vivid imagi-
nation hurting themselves, through some obscure
impulse, from the tops or lighthouses whence they
were looking. suppose that in one rash moment
innamed by the terrOrs Of "Purgatory,"I should
huri myself from the brink and iind an early grave
Or ! naprened to % reach the bottom IN timcl
ana @ said to myself that = would Sti' give s's ,Ss
alive. Some may think rate my lie dear. We
walked on for lew minutes, in silence. the guide
gayly chatting. some peop'e would chat gayiy on
pale boatman himself. Presently ne stopped be-
fore gully in the rocks, which commanded fine
tired and waited few moments with the patience
which Is characteristic OF men. Then, as the alter
noon was waning, proposed going on.
"DOn't you want to see 'PurgatOry p" said hc
"Cerainy." said /, 'let's make haste,r and
began pushing rapidly forward
see .PurgatOry.'"
"Certalnly 40, my dear fellow" exclaimed.
"weil, this is Pnrgatory'" said aid my guide and
pointed down the gully IN the rocks.
! looked down the gully, put my hands In my
pockets and stared the guide steadily in the lace
l thought ne was iooiing me. But no honesty
was written on his cOunteuance, and had not
even the miserable satisfaction OF thinking he had
WislleQ to play me Oke. i walked n elC
aud looked in l tried to shudder but my hair re-
fused to rise, my flesh to creep The marrow in
my bones was as easy and comfortable al though |
were swallowing turtle soup. l peered steadily
over the edge and tried to manufacture that SICK
ness OF the stomach and swirl OF the brain
which precipices judiciously administered are
said to promote. 1t was OF no use. the frenzy
wouldn't come. Such q wholesale fraud upon a
precipice ! never saw before, and hope never
TO see again. 1t was beneath the contempt
OF the writer of dime novel, Ii Syvanus Cobb or
Ned Buntnne should attempt to Introduce such
pltiml precpice as this into one OF his works
his reputation would be gone forever. Tradition
says u lover was once dared by his mistress to
leap its 'yawning' mouth for her glove. All that
have to say Is either that tradition lies (which
am sorry 10 say she often does or that the mouth
grew so tired OF yawnng that 1t has shut up ever
since
'Ips fearful place to look into" said my guide,
shuddering
into 1t iong.n And as walked away | thought I
would like to look into the people VINO print such
dreaduf hes about such Innocent localities. Gail
"PurgatOryn CONFUSION OF natures Why, it
isn't even a first ca - teething ht
THE BATHING
After this 1t became very difficult to persuade me
to go anywhere, unless you told me beol cnaud
that 1t was not worth seeing. l took to sittiug
Branch and rejecting upon the variety and general
wretclednass OF life. ButOne day was beguiled
to the beach convinced that II anything was going
on anywhere Ut Newport II must be there. found
the ocean roaring and the surf sweeping, the bilows
crested and the sands snlning just as had been
leu 20 expect. You can alwa, depend upon these
1, lie ScaSnOrc. Inc ocean
on you, eXccri when yen are Knocked down by 4
breaker. You dn1 things right there in the MAN,
too. Yes there were SIX; Tor counted
them twice, and they were i@r enough
them were women, 1T would be right to cal ;a..2
girl buoys. This was the extent OF the Newport
bathing. Now, whether the hour OF the day was
unfortunate ut was eleven A. NJ, when, l believe,
every one bathes VINO Is supposed to bathe at all,
or whether bathing has gone out Of fashion ut this
par: :icular spot or whether the coast Is large
enough TO accommodate more than six at time
and tue bathers go III oy lnstalments, or whether
there is u police regulation iOrbidd, ,ng more than
halfadoZen a. once on account OF the dltfculty OF
saving more than that number simultaneously 10
cases Of drowning, or whether all these reasons
In full force. VIII not undertake to explain.
made it % point OF asking every body whom me t.
but the only satisfaction 1 could get was that the
bathing season had not commenced yet; so 1 sup
pose 1t hadn't.
THAT OLD STONE MILL
Among the other institutions OF Newport ought
to be mentioned the Old stone Mill, upon which
was disposed 10 look with venerat.On until my
faith In human nature In general and nature at
Newport In particular was shaken In the touching
manner above narrated It stands upon a large
plot OF green directly in front OF the Atlantic
House, and may be taken for anything you wish to
imagine IL to be. II the band played IN 1t morning
and evening you would say IL made good music
house, ana II somebody set up soda water foun-
tam there you would call that capital idea. At
any rate, il furnishes every visitor wno dabbles IN
archaeology something to speculate about. good
many years ago the Society of Danish Antiquares
at Copenhagen lie ;ided that IT was built by Morse
men IN the twelfth century. l have examined all
the records that nave come in my way and
find myself in long lane that seems to
have no turning, or rather which turns again
into Itself and leads one over the same
ground ad inJiattun. Let us be thankful to who
ever built the Old Stone Mill, and let us be equally
thankful to those who didn't pull 1t down. what
should we do without these architectural num-
mics, come to US rom out OF dead and forgotten
pas! aud speaking to us with no intellgble Ian
guage, If there IL anything Tor which ieel par
ticularly o5tged to Father Time II Is iOr surround
Ing the niIe,esnth century with so many relics
which no one knSws anything about and which
professional antiqua.,sns shrewdly forbear utter
ing their opinions OF lor 'sar they should be mis-
the advantages OF being monument Is that the
older You grow the more interesting you become
body is anxious to take you away with them, sn,',
although every one assists In pulling you to pieces,
no one does so maiciously.
ANTIQUITIES AND DRIVES.
Nothing is truer than that shoddyism is not
at home at Newport. Here you find steady re-
spectability and people OF hereditary wealth and
good family. Wnether people come here to battle,
or drive, or fish, or sail, or to peram0ulate the
piazzas and listen to the music will not pretend
to say. 1t is easy to specify what they go to Sara
toga ana Long Branch for. There the show and
the shoddy are too often hand IN hand. For
solemn elegance and comfortable decOrum give me
Newport Some people, however, prefer old port.
do not grudge them their tastes. Ii you want to
look at antiquities there are the Jewish syna-
gOgue. which was built IN 1852; the Jewish GENE
terry, which began to be occupied about the same
date; the Redwood Library, incorporated in IA. +;
the state House, built in l742; Trinity church,
where Bishop Berkeley preached in 1929, and ver-
non House, where Washington almost lived,
being entertained there by the Count de
Rocnarnbeau. WHAT pity Washington couldn't
have died in as many houses as he lived in. Only
that thing can't be done. II you wish for drives,
take the bathing beaches OF which there are three,
and all OF them worth trying. Take a look at the
Cn cottages, visit the Glen and pretty little val
ley, named Paradise. Sauchnest Point Is the
fayorite resort of the fishermen, and from Honey
mans Hill magnificent view can be obtained OF
Easton's Pond, the beach, the ocean, the avenue,
Fort Adams, the Dumplings, Narragansett Bay,
Canonicut Park and the white line OF the
city, Win the hotels. DlIbIc bullliups and