Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1873-07-30

die" We propose to see Naples, but the
other part we wish to leave out for the pres
ent. This city, like Florence and Rome,
seems to be pretty much deserted by strangers,
but in the cooler months they are the fayorite
places of resort and the hotels, several OF
which are very fine Especially the Hotel
Costranzi in Rome said TO be the best in
Italy, are then crowded. Through the win
dow in front of US we look across the beaut
full bay to grand old Vesuvius, whose brow is
crowned with an everlasting wreath of smoke
and vapor issuing from the crater. Day be-
fore yesterday we took one of the most de-
lghtful steamboat excursions down to the
Island OF Capri, which, rising with its gra nd
PERCEPTIONS walls of rock forms part OF the
harbor on the South. On the way there dist
ant Is nilcs) we stopped at the romantic town
OF Sorrento, the scene. we suppose, of Mrs.
Stoves agnes of Sorrento" 1t is about IL
miles from Naples on the opposite side of the
bay, and is built upon high scliffs of stone
which have been extensively quaTried under
the city. These quarrcs opening upon the
sea, the town has the the appearance of being
built over numerous caves. The streets are
gained through a narrow defile. On nearing
the Island of Capri one of the finest sights to
be seen anywhere met our view. Above tow
cred for thousands of feet the perpendicular
|
reflected in the beautiful Mediterranean, whose
waters are of the most exquisite blue, far ex
ceeding cur expectations. Passing round a
part of the Island, the steamer hove to and
boats came along side in which we embarked
for the famous Blue Grotto under the cliffs,
| hard by The entrance is rather small and
we had to lie down to save our craniums
When we rose up inside the cave, what a
sight we beheld-we were vetitahly in fairy
land. Talk about enchanted castles and
Black Crook dissolving scenes. Here was
something in nature outriyaling them ALL ard
as we gazed down into the flaming liquid blue
beneath US, and at the gorgeous blue arches
above we were in an ecstacy Of delight. We
seemed in fairy land. As the oars glided into
the water they became shining blades of sill
yer disturbing a sea of most exquisite azure
crystal. AS the water fell from the oars it
turned to molten silver, and the spray was
tinged with the crimson rays of Aurora. An
Italian stood on rock at the father end Of this
mystical marine palace, gesticulating tremend-
ously, but to us very unintelligibiy of course.
After going through his grotesqne pantomime
for few minutes, he stripped off his coat and
shirt, and leaping into the abyss was trans
i formed as though by magic, into silver sea-
monster He swan about like a shining
q white fish for short time, and then mounted
his perch and received his half franc from
s each person. 1t seemed to US that we had
. never before seen anything so beautiful as
q this enchanted grotto OF the sea. On the
other side of the Island is the Green GrOtto,
which, however we did not visit. The shall
J. lowness Of TIE water there gives il beautiful
green color. while in tn Rue Grotto its depth
imparts to it the color which gives it its
/ name.
l. Taking the steamer again we retraced our
course under the brows CT the rocky Businesses
until we came opposite the village of Capri,
j. when we again disembarked and were taken
+ ashore by the boatmen, who, we think, must
be in league with the steamer, for instead Of
running into the wharf at Naples and Sorrento,
: she lay off and compelled the passengers in
addition to good round sum for fare, to pay
the boatmen liberal fee for their services.
In fact almost every one in these Italian cities
seems to try and get living from strangers.
Such persistent begging as we have been an
noyed with, especially on the Island Of Capri
we know nothing of in America, and we hope
to goodness we never shall. As we are riding
, along the streets, men and even women and
children often, with infants in their arms or
exposing to our view some horrible deformity,
; will pursue us at rapid run, for a consider
} able distance, with outstretChed palm and i'm
ploring look and speech. Everywhere You
go, everywhere you turn, you are beseiged
by these poor creatures. This is as it seems,
very contemplate business, but when we con-
slider the vast population of, for instance, this
great city of Naples. which, with its suburbs,
numbers over Coo 900 souls, the wonder at
the poverty and wretehedness so prevalent
ceases. Here is this enormous city, each one
of whose inhabitants, from the merest infant
to the old men and women must be fed and
clothed each day, and how they all manage to
exist we cannot explain. There appears. to
lo l,tt1a rote,
much enterprise, and under these circum-
stances quarter of the population are com
PEELED to either obtain precsriouS subsist
ence by begging or starve, while at least
another equally large portion, including hotel
keepers and servants, guides, drivers, boat
men, etc., obtain their support none the less
surely though the more honorably from
strangers OF the remaining moiety of the
population, at least one half, including the old
Bourbon and other wealthy and noble families,
the soldiers and police, are non-prol ucing-a
heavy tax upon the resources Of the country.
The remaining quarter of the population
comprising the tradesmen and laboring classes,
manage by hard work and long hours to live
more or less respectfully. The Italian of the
lowest class seems to be lazy, good-f for
nothing fellow, often seen sleeping on the
q sidewalk or on a. wall with the sun pouring
down upon him. The poor little donkeys ap-
pear to nave tile hardest time OF any, for they
/ are compelled to carry immense loads upon
their backs. We cannot wonder at the Ital-
ian's shiftlessness, for what has he to look
forward to- No bright future seems open to
a him, but only a miserable existence to drag
, through.
But let us return to the pleasant village of
, Capri, which consists of a considerable nnm-
0 Der of detached villas or country residences
t and hotels, nesting snugly under the noun
tains and surrounded by gardens and small
groves of fruit trees. We had among our
l. fellow passengers an enterprising young Eng
n lishman, a ship broker in Naples, who told US
;. That his brother had married on the Island
and kept hotel in the town. SO we went
III there and got nice dinner (table'd' hote) in
I'd the shade, with magnificent view of TIE
w Mediterranean before us. Aswe landed from
i, the boats the donkey owners beseiged us and
III followed US up to the gates of the hotel lead
If ing their donkeys and repeating DONKEY
Sc Ssignnor!' Fine donkey, Signor." But a
"a donkey ride in the heat, up the steep noun
III tain whose rocky, barren sides lowered bund-
at reds OF FEET above us, though rather tempting
did not quite allure e I