National Republican. (Washington City (D.C.)) 1872-1888, 1873-08-27
THE LATEST FASHIONS.


approaching black that they arc well named
, "Inyisiblcs." Conspicuous among silk i'm
portstlons arc the great quantities Of dark
blue shades; summer linens, with cashmere,
csmel's hair, and other flno wool fabrics, have
bccornc 90 popular In these hucs that IL Is
prophesied dark blue silk suits viii hnd cspe-
clal favor a. winter costumes and by way oil
further COMMUNICATION merchants say these
French blues are equally becoming 70 bl0ndcs
aud brunettea. Under the general head OF
Jros bieu, manufacturers send various shades
with specific names, such as black-plue,
which Is very nearly black old blue, nko ,nS
the dull Napoleon blue were introduced IN
the spring; tourmaline Ia the color OF the
stone Of that name, and mandarin Is the IN.
millar Chinese blue. There aro also mongrcl
blues with q dash Of foreign color-as, for
instance, the gray.blues, among which a
appropriately called Byron; n sun grnyer,
more murky shade, Ia Euxinc blue, while q
lighter tint IL known rs rorRdrfn, or rose
mary. Grecnish-blues are not as largely I'M
ported as formerly, btt a few Of the peacock
shades are shown and labeled cannfd blue
or else hirondeiie, or swallow blue, soft dark
shade Of peculiar beauty.
Since the advent Of tho Shah the green
shades are all dubbed Persian green, but
there Ia nothing In the name, for they retail,
precisely the yellow tinges familiar to us In
olive and bronze greens; the tea greens Of
rife green, arc oil reproduced. Among
bronzes, which are darker than ever, brown
bronze and black brouze will probably find
most favor. Pure and unadultcrated shades
Of brown arc SO dark that the color Is inylsl-
bic except In certain lights; In this Lat Is
and encre or inn brown. Tbs cearest gray
arc the stylish drtiotse or slate gray and dark
Iron gruy. Mixed bIue-grays and the rcscda-
tinged green-grays are again displayed, but
ere no longer new; oxidized silver gray, and
dark purple-gray that will look well asso-
dated with violet are especially admired.
Deep royal purple, plum-color, pucc and blue
prunc arc largely imported. The new groseius,
or currant color, and French ecdrldfe, which
Is softer and darker than ordinary scarlet,
ars the only red shades found among rich
gros grains. For evening silks are those
pale, shadowy tlnts that require gasllght TO
deepen them and develop their beauty; these
are labeled rose pastel, Indienne blue, Nile
green, and grisfn or pcarl-color.
-. WINTER eARSITURE.
0alloon ribbon 10 which jet and steel beads
are woven will, II Ia said, be preferred TO
tins passementeric for trimming this winter.
Thick, heavy passementeric cords worn
swinging from the shoulder have not mot
with favor here, but are again largely Inn
ported. Fringes Of every description are
brought out; there arc irngcs entirely Of
Jet, and others Of silk with jet drops on the
end; sewing-silk fringe. bullion fringe, tasscl
fringe and the goGcrcd or crimped tape
fringe now SO much used. There arc also
heavy wool fringes for trimming camcTs hair
diaeonals and other rough-surfaced wool
fabrics. MORE ribbons for bows and sashes,
and inuire cut on tho bias for folds, bands
aud facings, are shown as part Of the stock
al trimming departments. FsH.r4.
FRENCH BosNETs.
The FIRST Importation OF French bonncs fof
tho autumn shows something like return "a
original bonnet shapes. They have broad
crowns and high coronets cut In square tur-
fets, or dipping fronts with haring sides.
They have also very beautiful face trimmings,
while nj the back Ia q band that suggests q re-
turn to cnpcs. Most Of the trimmings In the
way Of flowers and feathers are massod on tho
back, but there Is very little pendent drapcry
Of lace, ribbon or silk. Pompons, aigrctte'
and ornaments Of cut steel or Jet are stuck
directly In front, In imitation Of o conspicuous
ornament worn by the Shah. The face trim
ming Is q full vine OF leaves, wreath OF How
err. or clsc twist Of silk knotted at interval,
or else dotted with flowers. The Rabagas
which may be either bonnet or hat, accord
Ing as strings are added or omitted, Is again
imported. One lovely model Is Of black vel
vcS with high coronet sloping lower on TIT
sides. Below the coronet, as a face trimOing
" tbInuuo VI bulc uhu iCocustole io puosht
plainly above the forehead and fastened In :
large loose knot on the left side. A bow o.
standing loops Is made Of these two colors
and, with q pompou, Is placed upright II
front, royale bands pass around the crown
with very short ends hanging behind.
eros do Suez, q soft, flexible, finely reppet
silk, will be used for trimming 10 inets o
velvet, straw and royale. Large groseiLe rec
roses brighten bounets Of the sombre fashion
able hues. Trimming silks Of very ligh
shades are used rs facings and other garnl
tu-e on dark velvets. Some of these comb
nations are new and peculiarly pretty; TO
instance, q bonnet Of invisible brown velye
has pale blue faclngs and purple pansies;
violet velvet bonnet has rcsedc plpings OF
the crown, with grOsellc roses hanging Low
on one side; q black velvet bonnet shows
pale blue plated facing In front with coro
net wreath Of green leaves, while droopinl
low behind Is a long ostrich plume Of min
bonnet has soft gray facings; and PERSIA
green has trimmings Of O lighter shade, will
groseille roses. At Is said flowers will b
more worn than Is usual on Water Apnncts
Ostrich pompons and aigrettes will DC NOR
fashionable than short curlcd tips. LON
hats are already In favor, and Will adyane
In price when fall millinery is displayed In tn
retail stores.
FALL SUITS.
Private modistes and the furnishing house
arc preparing dresses for the early fall iron
directions sent over by their commissioner
In Paris. Long waists, tight sleeves and hig
full ruffs are considered the necessary fea
lures for giving style to the various jocke
basques, round walsts and polonaiscs. Double
breasted redingo.es will have rufus placed Ia
side. Single-breasted polonaises havea prett
finish given to the neck by adding. q staudin
English collar with pointed revers front, mad
of the dress material or else Of tho silk wilt
which II Is trimmed. The neck Of the dres
Is cut very high In the throat, and above TIL
collar appears white muslin ruff, which
TO DO worn very close and high all arount
and IL called the "Amy Robsart" run. tn
edges Of polonaises and oycrskirts OF silk an
fne wooden suits are finished by bias ban
two inches wide, with double piping fold 0
the upper edge; for instance, . polonaise I
black and white striped silk Is trimmed wilt
bias striped band, with two tiny folds I
black silk set In above. Rufus Of dress mat
rial are pre-. tiest when made to serve as TIN
ming for the front Of the corsage, instead I
merely passing around the neck.
French chroniclers Of fashion say pol
naises will be worn very long and fiat In frou
much shorter behind, and Topped high on u
sides. The long, straight scarf front, wi
square corners below, and clinging closely
skirts are trimmed with bias bands Of cas-
mere, and so profusely trimmed that II Is dill
cult 10 decide whether the skirt Is Of sllk
cashmere. Small nantes, pelerinss and d.
mans with square mantilla fronts will
added to polonaises to give necessary warmt
English sacques Of diagonal cloths will
In vogue for early fall.
.... VARIETIES.
10 The newest fancy for arranging sash
worn with evening dresses Is 10 drape the
In half circle In front, letting them swi
low around the edge Of the oyer-skirt apre
they are then caught up to the waist on ca
side and tied In q long loose bow with har
ing ends on the left. Watered ribbon sasl
draped In this way are admired for mus
dresses, and garlands Of flowers arc sirnila
arranged. Velvet sashes are rather hea
for this style, but are worn nevertheless.
Instead Of neckties, with rufts, q GRAY
bow with very long ends lsworn front, a
Is preferred to brooch. This Is slim
bow Of black velvet ribbon or Of colored y
grain ribbon, two inches wide, with ends
yard long hanging straight down ~ fro
The black velvet bows are worn with ~
dresses, while colored bows brighten blu
costumes. Another fancy Is 10 wear q b
Of China Grape high on the left side OF
ruff instead OF In front. Pretty little trico
clusters Of rose buds are worn In tho 50
way on afternoon dresses, and are espccil
pretty with black grenadine and white IN
lin toilettes. Ladies' are also wearing I