The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-06-18
TURBULENT SPAIN.
A Herald Correspondents Journey to
the Capital. @
How Civil War is Waged on the
High Road to Madrid.
Stoppage of the DiIigences by
Carlist Bands.
THE sPANIARDs ILLUMINATED.
COLONEL G. n. BUTLER AMONG THE CARLISTS
Escorted Railway Trains and
n Burning Stations. tN
The Grossly Exaggerated Reports Of the
s-a Anarchy and Civil War;
The Rising of National Guards on the
23d Of April and the Coup d'Etat
Of Pl y Margal.
Hunting After Monarchist
Leaders.
Marshal SerranO, the Duchess dc Ia Tore
and the Countess Of Montijo, Mother
Of the Ex-Empress Of
the French.
The Rising of National Guards on the
23d Of April and the Coup d'Etat
Of Pr y Margall.
Hunting After Monarchist
Leaders.
Marshal SerranO, the Duchess de In Tore
and the Countess Of Montijo, Mother
Of the Ex-Empress Of
the French.
A Bull Fight Restoring Tranquil
lily and Order.

AyAl aIAa Er4E+ff madrid, April -, 1915
Though 1t may seem heartless to be jolly at other
peoples mseries, must declare that have yet
seen very little that was not thoroughly comical
"the horrible state OF anarchy and civil war into
which Spain has fallen." Alter having spent about
a month in Navarro and Guipazcoa studying the
Carsts and their leaders, got the HERALD's order
to look at the other side Of the medaito 60 among
the red republicans and to push down towards the
Puerta del Sol, where armed gentlemen OF the
pavement" are engaged IN settling the so-called
social problem much In the same way as the armed
peasants OF the Basque provinces are settling the
question Of Spanish Legitimacy. A diary kept dur
Ing last week and embodying q journey from the
Pyrenees down here and an account OF the republic
can coup d'etat Of Wednesday last will, perhaps
present pretty fair picture Of the horrors Of
Spanish anarchy and civil war. p alfe agaa
APRIL 21.-Start from Bayonne at noon by ex-
press to Trun, the first town on the Spanish side
Of the frontier. In about an hour and half the
train reaches Hendaye, where passports are care.
fully inspected by the French police and some en-
couraging advice is given not to proceed further
unless pressed by very important business, for the
roads are infested with Carllsts and the mail is
missing always for "the last three days." A few
persons are inundated and remain at Hendaye
with view to reconsider the matter--a decision
apparently greatly approved by the two hotel
keepers of the place-while the majority proceed
over the Bidassoa bridge. The station Of Trun
turns out to be fortified by means OF primitive
earthworks and palisades, which could not present
the slightest resistance even to runaway horse
much less to an attack Of armed men. Some OF
the windows are half walled up by means OF an
antediluvian kind OF masonry, in which few rifle
embrasures are perforated. The whole is guarded
by few soldiers Of the line and some militia
men in rather ragged attire. No difficulty Of any
sort is put In the way Of ones
CROSSING INTO SPAIN, e
no passports asked for nor even any questions put
as to what are the travellers intentions, viz
whether he intended going on the lett to the Carl
lists Of on the right to San Sebastian. But the lug
gage is mercilessly ransacked, and had consdera-
BILE difficulty IN demonstrating to batch OF Custom
House officials that q plaid which had served me
for these last ten or twelve years, and was now
fastened with strap, was not q new article, sub
iect to duty Several small omnibuses were in
readiness to carry the passengers to San Sebastian
whence-said the cards distributed among the per-
sons-a Senior Ugalde had comfortable diligences
running TO Zumarraga at the price OF eighty reals
head. To all the inquiries to the degree OF safety
OF the road the answer was that sometimes there
were Carllsts and sometimes not. but that no pas
senger had been murdered yet. Concerning the
integrity OF the luggage, however, and the time
OF arrival at its destination, the answer was
somewhat less distinct-namely, that the dill
gcnce administration could say nothing and would
not undertake any responsibility. As these little
omnibuses numbered about half dozen and the
company was not numerous, we were all toleraby
well seated, and driven as fast as could well be
desired, the road being excellent and the mules
apparently quite fresh.
San Sebastian, once the Gibraltar or Northern
Span and now, after the fire and pillaRe of 1Sl3
mere modern-looking watering place, was reached
about four p. N. The little omnibuses deposited
at the ofiice Of Senor Ugalde, where we were
advised TO secure the tickets at once, as the
number OF places was limited and the evening
train from Bayonne might bring more passengers
Concerning the time OF our starting nothing
could Dc said however. before the diligence had
arrived. We had thus to spend several hours In
walking about very dun, though picturesquely
situated, town. and TO have for all recreation
complicated process by which luggage was
weighed and charged very nearly the same
amount rs the transport OF our own persons.
TRULY SPANISH DINNER,
m Of rancid oil aad garlic, of hares and cartridges
sbot Of season and thoroughly spoiled by an in
famous way OF cooking, was another feature OF the
day. A. last, when we all got quite tired or wait
Ing we were told we could 80 20 bed and would be
called at our hotel when the diligence was ready to
start. And so we were called at four A. NJ, but to
no better purpose than that OF learning thata dill
genee built TO carry at the outside eight persons
was now to take twelve inside and three
outside. As several uncean peasants we're
among the company DESTROYS to get inside the car
riage voted for the outside. and got a seat OF
about SIX square inches on a little portable bench
placed Ia 'front.' Of mountain OF luggage on the top
Of the miserable vehicle. A commercial traveller
and cns we're 10 share II with me- IL would
be quite useless to attempt to describe our posi-.
lions during that msmorable journey OF sixteen
hours. Our legs were all the time hanging
down. as II We we're sitting on the edge OF a
roof; the luggage mountain pushed us violently
from behind. together with the bench, each time
she diligence was driving down hill, while the
goodman whipped Us merciessly each time It
vent up hail. and he became excited over the re.
spectiyc cnorts OF his seven mules IL was only on
going up particularly sharp heights that We were
ocr axlonaIly relieved from these tormcpfs for