The Hickman courier., 1873-02-15
rhe valley of Roncesvalles.


The stranger who enters Spain from
the north is bewildered by the complete
he encounters. La Bella France.
ever gay and pretty to the eye, fades
out of the canvas, and the Wild, broken
of the Pyrenees rise up, one by
one, bleak and frowning IN the back
ground. Picturesque pastures merge
in brown, defiant sierrns cleft to hh"
..arsict sslsches. -rayine aall 70. -.
80 1.n51z -. A1l1z1Es
their surroundings. II has been well
said that Africa begins at the Pyrenees.
The trim, jaunty peasant OF the French
vineland here becomes the brpnzed and
hardy mountaineer. In this region the
old brigand once throve. Travellers by
diligence in times past were wont TO
tremble and cast furtive glances about
them when plunging into the black, mn
rooted caves through which the road
wound, and their dismal dread was not
materially allayed at seeing here and
there, stuck upright in a fssure, a tim
Der cross. to mark the spot on which
some luckless wight of a wayfarer had
met with pillage and foul play. BY
moonlight ghostly shadows fell across
the solitary path, and made mule,
muIeteer and traveller start alike when
ever cloud-hand suddenly passed over
the face of the pale orb. Even Mt this
day it is far from safe to go on foot by
this route with lnapsack on shoulder,
as summer tourists like to do among tho
Alps. One Of the most remarkable
features of interest for the walking
tourists in the Pyrean region Is the IA
nous pass Of Roncesvalles. The ham
let itself lies in lovely meadow car
peted by velvet lawn and canopied by
lofty forest trees one of the finest pas
toral plateaus in the world AS il broke
upon us. we involuntarily paused and
pondered in delight The ruined Au-
GUSTAV convent Of our Lady Of the
Dale still stands as sentry over the Nir-
Gin of Roneesvalles's beautiful valley
home. We were glad to see that tho
village inn was almost opposite this
forest sanctuary, and from the little
window of our chamber we commanded
superb view of it, especially after the
moon arose and its orange-tinted beams
auivered among the broken towers and
turrets. Truly it was a magic scene,
such as the fancy loves ~ dwell upon
throughout Iii -ims8 Tire groune
e.. 4 -
/, q ~ ~ s.as..s.ssa.su ivaded Navorr
at the front of noble army, bearIn
the sanity banner of tho Cross, in oi
der TO drive out the caitiff followers q
the Crescent from so fair a heritage
But, unfortunately, Moore and Spaniaro
| Nobammedan and Catholic, turban am
pIumed helmet. focked together wit
one accord under the same battle-hag
raised the stern war-cry of Arr
against the French y and chose TIA
brave Bernardo del Carpio for thei
common chieftain. At ROncesvalles th
battle. was fought with extraorbnar
| desperation the great emperor OF tli
West. after prodigies of personal prov
| ess was forced to withdraw the car
mage was merciless. and scores OF mail
ed knights and their devoted henchme
were made TO bite the dust III death
Both Cross and Crescent claimed tn
honor of victory, and Christian Charla
magne lost his best chivalry on that dis
.astrous day. The ballads of Bernard
are still chanted by the rustics OF M
varre as they drive their focks homewar
at NIGHT and in them the rout
ascribed wholly to the beneficent inter
nosition of the Blessed Virgin OF th
Vallev-a fact never doubted by an
| frne Snnnish believer.