Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-04-01
THE WORLD OF FASHION
NEW YORK STYLES.
Spring Openings.

lfGshtoR Correspondence Of The Erenin9 SfoT.I
NEW YORK, March 81, 1873.
March is a very quiet month so far as fashion
is concerned. Great boxes, containing our flu
ture wardrobes, or their materials, are piled
upon the street, and slock our steps at every
turn; but what We are really to wear when the
chilly winds of March are gone, and the sun
shine has come, the most OF US do not know
We are accustomed to taking what has been
provided for us in the way OF fashion without
demur, and accept the fate that foreordans our
bonnets and dresses, with less reluctance than
the Hindoo his 'tdestiny"
The relics OF what once constituted the most
important event of the season-the milners'
''Opening'-still lends decayed sort of inter
est to the month, like the fragrance of withered
flowers, but 1t can hardly be said to give il fash
ionable Importance, as the most fashionable,
even of the millinery houses, defer their open
ings of late years until April, and make their
bOnnets of secondary Importance to their "cOs-
Tunes" which include bonnets matching the
dresses, or trimmed to correspond with them.
The introduction of the round hat struck the
first blow at the business of b0nnets. It's adapta-
bility, economy, and beccmingness made 1t an
institution at once. To compete with it bOnnets
were made small, AMI similar i'm appearance.
and were then so easily counterfeited that ladies
made them, or employed their maids and seam
stresses to make them for Themselves: that put
the extinguisher on bOnnets as a business; they
have never since been able to go IL alone, but
keep up precariOus and uncertain kind OF ex-
istence, having no distinct character. but pre-
senting a mongrel appearance, half hound, half
cur. which robs them Of all claim to style or dis
tinctiOn, and renders them, instead Of the crOwn
the mere accessory of the toilette. The onls
new bonnet Of the season Is q sort of straw ca
lash, fastened down at the sides with strings
which tie under the chin. 1t is a revival i'm a
mitigated torn Of the "poke" bonnet, and taken
reduced, as the importers give it to us this sea-
son, has quaintness which is not all unbe-
coming, and simply prOvOkes smile at the idea
which It suggests Of playing at "old woman"
The faults of the head-gear are generally the
same as last year, want of character, and an
e fort to hide the negative defects by q super
abundance of trimming. To this is added the
fatal defect of mixture Of colors or shades
upon one bonnet, which is only allowable when
these harmonise exactly with the costume. But
put three shades Of green, for example. upon a
ers, lace, feathers, all differing in color or TINT,
then put this mixture in close contact with tie
probabilities Of an ordinary toilette, and what
confusion Of shades there would be II colOrs
could speak, what q Babel of sound! The sub
tleties Of art should be left to those who can
bring time, experience, taste, and means to the
should confne themselves to the simplest STYLES
and combinations.
In round hats, for spring wear and travelling
the most in demand. There is fancy for trim
ming black with sol0rs, dark blue for example,
mixed mike a. with straw and Jet; and white straws
broidery sometimes composing the crown, and
long trails of moss roses the ornaments.
Jet and o straw are are largely eom6insd and
of beads, buckles, chains, and other articles,
which are very inappropriately used as orna-
ments for hats and bonnets. The prominent
styles among the round hats are the following:
THE RUBENs HAT.
The Rubens hat has of late obtained GER
tain hold upon the minor portion of the ''dressy'
picturesque; but let me observe that the most
picturesque things, If inappropriate, are in the
worst taste for street wear. Indeed, Ii may be
be avoided than sought for outdoor garments.
as taste and inconspicuOus simplicity Is more to
be desired, though there is nothing to prevent
that simplicity from being rich in effect.
The Kuben's hat Is = broad brimmed shape
one side of which Is turned up and fastened as
In the portraits of the celebrated painter, while
entire crown, and falls droopingy at the back.
This STYLE it will be seen at once Is better suit
ed to q watering place, or for riding in NE
Yet all who are seeking for particularly be-
coming riding hat-I ailude, of course, to young
ladies, or young married women-will find, that
to youth and ffeshness, the Ruben's hat gives
An added charm.
THE cALABRrAN. a
The Calabrian hat u . new shape In straw Of
though, let It be remembered, that Il demands
tall woman to wear it, - the effect Of this hat
on short person y peculiarly disastrous to
&c sailor sSsps mont Am :. n 6. Sses
:s!s With rose ORE bisds wing Of IIsSs soS ss
:n. plume SS. sn an &: .ss . sSs ,
scarf Of black Spsuish lace, with Q handmade
border, and two yards IN length, decorates the
sides This hat must be Get far back ON the
head: Large earrings OF ths pattern called
CalabriAn-e long hoop-are usually worn With
thk seyle Of hat The Calabrian Should never
8. csia beoonss heavy and ven Ssn p
other Be placed over the face, which fact. vita
sss ir evening Ssess :seA = =
the laying aside u tire veil over the fsce In ~.
erect y highly diaadyantaeoous to The preser
vataoa q an unbleniahed esmplexion-
Tne PLAIH, KILT RL1ATRD, AID TIE eINPI,
0oRBD eKIRf.
II hos been vehemeu1ly disputed hat n,
PLAIN, the kilt pleated, and the simply gore.
reader on the faith obteinsd through ocpis
demonstxattos, that in Paris thess stylss nr..
vail do not cay that there are 10 eIaS,cf..
overskirts; I simply cay that the palmer On
are the mooe.
very elegant bridal outff, for the ,ett;,.
ont 2; Of .hish 10 pains have been spared. prove
make, fer IN this trousseau the greater srt aver,
Of the eyening-dreses have either p.sin, gored.