, 1873-05-25
spicy, aromatic. odors, down long :arcades Of

blooming exotics and fragrant foliage; orange
and lemon tree, in full bloom, bud and blossom
as. in immense piles, among the plants; thou
sands Of birds that sing and paroques that chct-
ter, and the large Spaniah cockatoos, that swing
and whistle among tue shrubbery,-all tame aud
without csges, and all for sale at mere sorg.
Almost naked, dusky Cholo children swarm
Gle, whether Of bird how.r, fruit, OF curiosity.
Numerous little monkeys grin at you from
wooden perches, whe-o thoy are chained;
awaiting q purchaser; and little :fnt
negro girls. from the nge OF 6
years upward, squat upon their bare feot along
making native linon laces, ct all kinds and toH-
t,1res, on;1itt1e bobbins and cushions and it. is
astonishing to SEQ the rapidity with which their
fingers fy. 60. -. !!
:Eut the sun is now high and the market
people are departing in erowds; ot us lea1e
Since breakfast /. 1ave been standing over an
hour, Oh my balcony, looking down the long,
narrow Streets 4nr ~ QUEER SIGHTS
Of this Peruvian city. There was never city OF
this size go flied with beggars and stray dogs,
except some Of the old cities described By
Mark Twain" in his o1nnocents Abroad"
1sgga1a of |nb can loudly upon 2Deo, and Willingly
importune the passer-by. And every bcSgar IL
followed BY a vagrant dog, hungry and watctrful
Straugest sight Of all is the long-leggcd, black-
featherod, solemn-looling turkey -buz2ards, who
are the scavongers Of Peru. Soc. them stand at
the open drain, or sewers, which, in some streets,
run through the very centre OF the way, and
which are open and simply little running streams
into which is e1nptied all the offal and filth Of
tho city. Now they peer, With keen watchful
alighting in droves, quarrel md contend With
tho proving dogs over the possession. It may
be few scraps Of bread, rind of m orange, or
dilapida.ed paper-collar, but tho contest is
quite as animated as to which shn]l possess the
coveted article, "
DOGS AGAINST TunKEr-nuzzARDs;
but the latter victorious, and deyour tho col
lar, broad, ETC., with infinite gusto. Now, 3
mounted Peruvian dashes by, riding as II for
life, and scnttering the dogs and foot-passers be-
foro him, right and left, as he flies along Here
also ne look down upon open shops, with canvas
back grounds, gorgeous with ribbons and native
embroiderics, and the national "manta;" aud
others, filed with scented drinks, fragrant with
Spices Now I look down into q Moorish arch
way, Of yellow, adobe, revealing glimpses Of .
and, at play at the contre, a fountain, shadoWed
by IN immense banaun-.ree, and the courtyard
flied with boxes Of white lilies and roBos. In
one corner stands the .
HUGE wATER-JAR,, =.
which is filed daily by the waterman on bis
rounds, and which holds over d barrel. Drop by
drop, from it's base, it filters into an immense
stone filter, and cooler as we'll and can see
now, what in my childhood always was STUN
Thieves" low Morgiana could hare smotherea
the robber in the jar Of boiling oil. It used to
puzzle me-, in the legend, to know how the rob
bor could have gottan into . water-jar but
can easily see that d man could securely hide IN
than barrel, and slope to small base. Now
comes by string of sure-footed donkeyB, their
heavy bundles Of brush-wood quite filling up the
narrow street. And here come the doukeJ-boys,
who belabor the poor, patient beasts, and shout
in incessant song.
Then I walk to the other side OF my balcony
lit is On corner), and look down into the wido,
tagged streets, with arches overhead, and under
whose alcores are the finest Of shops and the
most alluring Of goods: And here co. come? ny y
his little donkey, with two kegs of water before
him, on either side the donkey, and dnkling his
1ittle bell es be- goes. Now long procession OF
priests winds by, aud the people kneol, and the
men uncover and croaa tneEasciScs NO" tao
little hunpbneked
goes by, crying his Tickets real each 90 cents),
and telling Of the 1000 eoles q sol is dollar
and quarter) to be drawn on "Wednesday.
Theae lettcries are legalized buainoss, under
prove an immense source Of reye~
hue hue to the Church.) Now the
sisters and friars OF SOUS henerolens ordor fle
i businessmen, just ready for thoir counting
houses, sauatering 1eisure!y, along, cigar in
mouth, stopping to chat with each passing &C
quaintance, and forming striking contrast to
tbs ruah and drive Of our New York or Chicago
city businessmen. The Peruvians ara dreamy,
like their soft climate indolent, like the aimos-
phere they inhalo soleuon and grave, IS dwenera
BY the sea invariably arc.
And so the panora1aa varies, until busy day is
ended, and ~......-.
OF tropical evening settles over the city. Then
The guayaaasos turkey y-bnzzards) wheel in long
circles hons 20 tha tops Of the houses, and perch
on the nnitred heads Of the Saints in the inches
Of the Cathedral. And deep, tender gloom,
tint is not like night, surrounds the city and
the hill tops and the mountains grow blue and
fade into mist, and the languid sea, just glidea
to the shore Thore comes shifting Phozpht9nr tn
pebbly beach and suddenly the sky kindles into
ten thousand 1nyriads Of stars g yast mosaic; &,
and the air is fragrant with the salt sea SMELL
And SO deep night settles over Lima.
-. =. WArDA.