New-York tribune., 1873-06-14
THE UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION.
THE AUSTRIAN DEPARTMENT.

sTRUMKNTs.
ryRoM A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRIBUSEl J
VIENNA, May 22-The second day in the Austrian
Department Of the Industrial Palace may be begun
with glance at the display of jewery Near the
Rotunda, just at the entrance Of the East Wing,
stands small glass case, from which the public are
kept at a safe distance by an IRON rail There Is
always crowd Of people leaning over this rail and
stretchng out their necks to get good look at the
contents Of the case As fast CO. Others take
their places and there is seldom a vacant
foot Of standing room. The little glass
case contains about a million dollars worth
of trinkets, exhibited by the Court jeWeler
Of Vienna The most valuable thing in 1t is neck
lace of 46 briants of remarkable size ana luster'
the property Of the Archduke Carl Ludwig, which
the policeman who stands guard over the treasure
says cost S25O.OOO. There are also three coronets
Of diamonds and rubies, which perhaps count for
$4,000 OF $4,000 each, and number of magnlh-
cent brooches earrings, and pearl necklaces, with
diamond clasps. the cost of which the policeman
does not pretend to know and declines to guess. One
of the coronets represents a bit of grapevine the
stem and leaves being of diamonds and the punches
of grapes Of large rubies A necklace of seven rows
of pearls is noticeable, more for its gorgeous
ness and costiness than from its beauty of design.
The pearls are each almost as big as a schOolboys
marble and the strings hang pendent from two
great broOches-one an emerald surrounded by three
rows Of diamonds, and the other tie made of
diamonds in silver settings How it is to be worn 1
cannot say. unless the brooches which nearly as
big saucer TO be fastened on the shoulders so
khat the pearls shall hang over the breast A more
tasteful necklace is one having three strings Of
equally large pearls fastened by lustrous solitaire.
There is nothing uer in the whole Exhibition thus
far in the way of diamonds and pearls, than that
which is contained in this case. The French may
bring something to surpass it, but they have not yet
opened the jewelry in their department The Vienna
jewellers do not rival those of Paris in the variety
and elegance of their work. but they rank next to
them, and in some special branches are unsurpassed
They have great advantage in the Exhibition in
being able to make fine display without undue in
convenience OF expense for the transportation and
Iare of their precious wares. They transfer great
part of their establishments to the Exhibition, and
have their clerks standing by their showcases 10
distribute cards and take orders. The articles on
show are not allowed to be delivered to purchasers
Int the close Of the fair but this rule is often vo
hted. Those who observe it win always make q du-
plicate of anything purchaser takes fancy to, if
be is not willing 70 wait until next November to get
possession Of it.
speciality Of the Vienna jewelers. is rococo-vork,
for which the chief market is in Hungary, where it
Is used for the adOrnment of the national costume.
Another speciality is enameled silver jewery. Of
which there are beautiful specimens exhibited in
black and blue enamel ornamented with diamond
yprays Of flowers and ears of wheat. The manufac
ture Of garnet jewelry is a peculiar Bohemian In
austry carried in Prague. The stones are found
In the mountains in the vicinity, and the beauty and
sheapness of the jewelry has secured it market all
sver the world. Among the great number Of pretty |
and curious things in the cases of garnet-work |
rb oil and v-ho Wit
covers and backs incrusted with the shining
blood-red stones. The many cases of diamond jew
airy display great deal of fine and costly work, but
uot much that is unique. There are plenty Of dia-
pond butterflies with wings mOtted with rubies
and emeralds diamond birds of Paradise sprays of
white and red roses in diamonds and rubies wasps,
beetles and bees in precious stones Of all kinds and
bher similar cOnceits of French invention of which
Tpecmens often find their way across the Atlantic
10 the great Broadway jewelry stores Opals are
much used with diamonds for brooches and earrings,
md specimens are shown Larger than pigeons eggs
great lustrous stones with changeable unts
Of emerald and sapphire shimmering upon their
peary surfaces and mysterious roseate fires burning
in their hearts. Very pretty ornaments and OF mod
crate cost are the sprays of forgetmenots made Of
turquoises set in silver and initiating very cleyerly
the natural flower of which there are so many
shown. The pyramids of seal rings and the cases
filed with gold and silver chains are also worth
moments notice. So are the curious little watches
in oxidized silver to be hung to ladies belts chate
lsine fashion. In our search for something unique
we came at last TO a round gold brooch with soli-
taire diamond in the center, from which radiate
curved gold rays 70 the rim, like Catherine wheel
Under this upper wheel is a lower one whose rays
curve in the opposite direction. By some iconcealed
machinery these two wheels revolve in different
ways producing the effect Of fountain Of golden
water always bubbling over, Of which the diamond
Is the source The possessor Of this pin would only
have 70 wind it up like watch before going out to
party and she would be sure to attract the atten-
tion of the whole assembly
On leaving the main gallery and this glitter Of
gold and gems, and going into the neghboring tran
sept many articles will be found that are more pecuh
arly Vennese. Here is long Of cases Alled with
fans the manufacture Of which is one Of the leading
industries Of Vienna and employs 1000 artisans. 1t
is Of quite recent growth and was begun few
years ago by the manufacture of fans of maple
wood painted and carved. Other materials were
soon empOyed-a variety of woods. and Of silk
feathers. lace. paper, papier-maeh6, &C. and the
arts of the goldsmith and the painter were called in
10 decorate the costlier kinds. Now the variety Of
these pretty feminine toys is endless and they range
IN price from few cents to almost any sum one is
willing to pay. 1t is said that some of the most
renowned of Vienna artists do not disdan to
employ their talent in painting fans A special in
dustry Of Vienna, which makes but a small figure
10 the Exhibition, and will be passed unnoticed by
most visitors is the manufacture of motherof pearl
buttons Yet the value Of these buttons exported
TO the United States exceeds that Of any other
article which Austria sells us. 1t amounted, last