Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1873-08-28
New York Fashions,

OF the styles to be worn ia the fall are
gathered from the letters written home
from Europe by BUYERS for the LARGE
wholesale houses. These report that
double breasted garments have by no
means seen the hight of their popularity
but Will continue in favor for the fall
and winter, The English walking lack
ct, similar to the garment of that name
worn last year, but more closely fitted
VIII dispute favor with mantillas as fall
wraps A pretty garment, showing the
compromise between these two wraps is
already published in the French maya
zines of fashion. The front has long
square mantilla ends, the back is q snug
ly tltted jacket and the sleeves are coat
shape. This composite garment is styl-
lsh and new, and will be made of black
cashmere or camels hair, to be worn
with various dresses. The double breast
ed front will also be retained with pol
onalses and redingotes, of which fresh
varieties are promised The sleeveless
and the jockey basques are still in vogue
abroad, and will be found among impor-
tatiOns of next season. H..
The pulled skirt is also Partisan
suggestion for fall dresses. This is mere
ly an amply long basque and single
SKIRT, but the skirt is so elaborate that
an overskirt would be superfuous. A
long walking skirt of cambria is made
and plainly covered with silk from the
knee down. On this is sewed the silk
skirt, held in lengthwise puffs from the
waist down gradually widening towards
the bottom, and forming below hollow
box plating that gives the effect of a
t1ounce around the skirt. The puffs are
ODD nv laI,a -
the end of each. The basque is deeply
pointed in front and behind and is quite
short on the hips 1t is trimmed, by
ruttie Of hollow plaits, graduating mar
rover on the sides, and quite deep in
the back and front This skirt is new
but is the outgrUwth of the fashion
now prevalent of long puffs in three
front breadths. Oycrsllirts on many
imported dresses are open ia front and
Tapped from side to SIDE Just below the
belt There is a deep point on each
side, and the back is caught up by a
sash almost to the belt. Alpacas, which
are underestimate here have again come
into great favor in Europe for country.
seaside and travelling dresses Ct,ar
gray shade are most used, and are trim
med with black velvet or else gros grain
of the shade Of the material
Neto Je'rebY-The exhibition at Wen
ma has thought to light the novelties in
j@",lly prepared for the coming fall and
winter. Among the unique jewels chron-
icled are those of finely cut jet, associ-
ated with garnets or other bright red
stones. These are said to be very effec-
tive and popularity is predicted for
them. The Persian jewelry is also much
admired This is combination of bril-
! liant stones of various colOrs set in one
! brooch. The designs are miniature cop
| les OF the intricate figures represented
| in Persian scarfs, shawls, carpets, etc.
! The journeyiugs OF the Shah and his
! gorgeous display of Jewels have prola-
! bly, brought this fashion about. The
silver mixed with gold has already been
/ mentioned. The oxidized silver, now
most in vogue is almost as dark as iron.
Highly polished platinum, it is said, will
take the place of the dark silver and
will be fashiOnably combined with gold.
B0aCS, RuBS, etc.-A welcome impOr-
tation for midsummer, when spring lin
gerie has lost its freshness, consists of
| novelties in bows, rufus and kindred al
ticles. Rufus do not require neck tie
| passed around the neck but merely a
| bow to close them at the throat, Pret-
]
! colOrrd China Grape in irregular loops,
| folds and fringed ends, arranged with
! French taste, and inclosing dainty ja-
! bot rutfle of snowy crepe lisse. A small
| err bow made to match is worn in the
! couture AS the summer wakes and
wanes into autumn these accessories to
the toilet take on a deeper hue, and APP
| pear in dark violet OF pOnceau red or else
! are made of the palest tint of blue COM
| bned with sapphire. Nile green with
! dark cypress, or two shades of the pea
| cock combination of blue and green.
Very long narrow jabots of lace are
still worn, and the hight of style is to
continue them down the entire front of
the basque or even the pOlOnaise, with
which they are worn. New ruffs or col
! larettes, are very high behind, coming
! low at the throat and covering so much
! of the corsage front that any waist trim
ming is surpurfuOus. Theyare made of
| China Grape folds of two extreme shades
the palest and darkest of any color
an embroidered Grape band, and a rough
plating of crepe lisse. Stylish ruff
! chimisettes are POmpadour squares with
a high double ruff of muslin edged with
Valenciennes, made very full, and flaring
out from a band OF needle worked in
sertion.
Morning Handkerchiefs = Another
novelty is linen and lawn handkerchiefs
with colored hens, made of the India
silk that washes like linen. They are
chosen with reference to the dress worn,
and are shown in Napoleon blue, violet,
poppy, and many paler shades. Some
have plain hem, some brier stitching on
the hem, others have striped buff and
| huff or
blue and white. There are also hens
of fine batiste doubled, to wear with
batiste costumes, or else to accompany
collars of batiste worn with black tat
fetta silks. A variety of these have
rows of narrow Vallenciennes laid on
the hem and wider lace on the edge.
Another fancy is fiuted ruff1e of sptted
linen, like that of the chemisette put
around width handkerchiefs.
Miscellaneous. The Swiss muslin caps
worn to breakfast by married ladies now
are made in the shape worn by Norman
DIV peasant women. They have stiff,
high pointed crowns, with ruffles falling
around the face. A loosely waved tress
of false hair is now worn across the
head Just above the forehead. This
pretty fashion is welcomed by ladies
who have burned or worn off their front
hair in frizzing it, as this enables them
to smooth away their own front hair out
of sight, and let it grow long enough to
be parted in the middle and drawn back
in a classic style.
A novelty in vogue abroad is rough
looking gimp and fringe said to be made
of common Irvine. 1t is used for trim
ming Turkish toweling, bamboo, flax lin
en- and other ecru fabrics. Moses are
much used for trimming ball dresses OF
white tulle or tarlatan. Other summary
garlands are of green leaves and inter
twined vines with deep fringe OF white
hyacinth, hare-bells or lilies of-the,
valley The fringe edges oversklrts ana
heads fiounces. For protecting the lac,
ings of skirts that drag on the ground
On innnr facing is now used of dark oil