The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1873-09-05
LETTER FROM MRS. VICTOR,

and rs Tor the pickle am pretty nearly
always in onel When left Portland
on-Wallamet two months ago, it was
with the vaguest of ideas about what I
should encounter east of the noun
tains. had heard of the Modocs, and
did not aspire to an encounter with
them. There were rumors afloat of In
dian Agents scarcely less formidable
than their barbarian wards. 1t was
understood that alkali and volcanic ash
and scoria constituted most of the Ter
ritOry known as the Lake Country.
These several distinct impressions were
all that felt sure of-gained I hardly
could tell how-from one and another
reckless talker.
1 set out therefore with a tagging
sense of anticipation of what was to
come-doubting if my summer wander
ings in this direction would prove either
pleasant or profitable. / wish it dis
tinctly understood that / hadn't any
passes, and therefore speak with entire
freedom to say what choose; and if l
thank the officers of the o. & C. r. r.
train for courteous treatment, and ride
on the locomotive through the most
romantic portion of the railroad route,
it is for actual politeness from them,
and not an acknowledgement of dead
head privileges. The Root of the matter
was the conductor; and its branches
were baggage-master Anderson, and
Jimmy" the newsboy.
Having been over the road in old
stage-coach times, | was delighted to
find that the charm of novelty still re-
mained; for of course the railroad
does not follow the stage road grade
altogether. The pass through the
CalapOoia mountains into the beautiful
Umpqua country is especially fine, pass
ing as it does through forest of giant
timber, and cool ferny hooks, moist
with the trickling Of mountain rills.
Emerging from this, we came at once
into Yoncalla Valleys lovely region,
and rendered famous from having so
long been the residence of one of Ore
gOn's most eminent men and famous
pioneers, Jesse Applegate. The old
mansion at the foot of Ioncalla noun
tain is abandoned by the Usage" who
erst gave dignity to its ready hospital
ity, and one must look for the proprietor
on the borders of Clear Lake in North
ern California.
At Roseburg we leave comfortable
car, and hasten TO take n not very COM
Portable coach. As a tourist must
grumble somewhere, seize upon this
opportunity. When one is about to
commence night ride, one wants three
quarters Of an hour ut the very least to
prepare for it; but at Roseburg it is pre-
sumed dtthat that you can attend to your
toilet, take supper, and get INTO your
night wraps in fifteen minutes-all on
account Of the stage company's en-
thusiastic intention to make time, and
deliver its passengers to the waiting
train on the California end of the road
at a stated moment. left out the sup
per, having been fortified thereto by
private lunch on board the train. Stage
driving in Oregon is good-I find no
fault with that. But the Stage Com
pany probably could afford, if they
thought of the sufferings of their pas
sengers, to put in cushions that are a
trifle less hard than q rock. On the
whole, it would be cheaper than
smoothing down the Irregularities in
the road which make the spring cush-
ions desirable.
One gets through the night, to ones
establishment, without being reduced to
jelly, and after comfortable breakfast,
resumes the journey feeling somewhat
refreshed. But no! outraged nature re-
sents the maltreatment the nervous sys-
tenn has undergone, and the digestive
organs are undergoing, and insists upon
an outside seat after a dose of cam
phor-and-water. That is a happy
suggestion. The driver proves good
company, besides being a philosopher
and the bright morning air becomes a
tonic. We get on very amicably to the
dinner station at Rock Point; and here
our sense of justice is offended afresh.
After the coach arrives, time is con-
sumed getting dinner on the table,
necessarily. BY the time we are seated
and have slcdllowcd half n meal, the
word is given to start again. OF course
the horses and driver have had theiI
meal beforehand without hurry. The
miserable passenger, whose only busi-
ness is to pay his fare, is not consulted.
On the contrary, he is compelled to con-
sent to be regarded as fast freight; faster
when at the stations than when Oh the
road. But it all conduces to make us glad
to come to our journeys end, as well a:
to vow we never will-no, never! take
coach through Oregon again. But we
shall-of course we shall-and the Stage
Company knows it.
At Ashland, charming village IN the
foothills, my stage ride came to close
and was Hospitality entertained ovel
Sunday at the house of another Of Ore
gon's pioneers, Lindsay Applegate
, brother of Jesse, and father of Gen. Il
) L. Applegate, of Lane county. From
this point Travelled in company with
private party across the mountains
5 making sixty-two miles in three days
r But that was the tn Of it. What oc
: casion for hurry ,~hen the world wa
! all before us WHERE (and when) Il
: choose" 1t was the most genuin