The Columbia herald. [volume] (Columbia, Tenn.) 1850-1873, 1873-08-08
saEr a8st
How evans. Has Changed.

In one of Henry Watterson's recent |
letters to the Louisville Courier ournal |
he laments the growing hcentlousness
of the British metropolis, and thus
pleasantly writes of famous conee-
house There once was, and there still
is, In this particular quarter OF London,
a famous coffee-house, which the old
wits and beaux were wont to visit, and
which Thackeray celebrated In the
second chapter of the Newcomes, known
as Evans. When I first knew Evans
it was rough place, facing the market
without any show or ornament whatever.
Nv recollection is that no fee was
charged at the door. You entered a
great old room hung round with old
portraits of old habitues, and furnished
with rough deal tables and chairs. Inc
bill of fare was limited. You got
chop and potato and a pewter OF ale;
nothing else But these were peerless,
prepared and served in an incomparable
way. You sat down at table; neatly
dressed waiter came and laid you nap
kin as white as snow, and pewter plate
as shiny as silver, and knife and fork.
Then he went away and presently re-
| turned with two little shiny pewter
globes, smoking hot, and a pewter
! fankard. The air began to glow and
grow odorous. The globes parted IN
one there was a chop and in the other
there was a potato The waiter caught
up the potato in napkin, gave the
napkin a twist and emptied a bag OF
-four in your plate. He twirled the
tankard and out poured stream OF
foamy amber. ALI the while droll,
| old-fashioned concert was going on, old
songs, old dances, old glees and old
choruses, with one moral, Be kind to
the weak and poor, be generous and be
Jolly, eat heartily, sleep soundly, love
God and serve the king. Not chem
isette was to be seen. There was one
place in London at least where a man
might be free and easy without having
TO break the seventh commandment. A
more virtuous, more upright and ele-
waiting. a more uncouth, cleanly, pr1ml-
tive and delightful entertainment could
not be devised. The other night, j
bethought me of Evans. So, making
nv way out through the tobacco smoke
and strumpets of the Alhambra,
strolled down there, finding it without
| any trouble, for great harlng sign, IL
| glitteYing gas jets, ''Evans now liln
inmates the entire market place. Pay
ing nv shilling at the door, L entered
) to find not the jolly old deal boarc
a commonplaces, the smoke-stalned beams
: and rafters, the old portraits, but
: magnifcently furnished and frescoet
!; apartment, fitted up like cafe chontG,'
g in the Champs Elysees. gorgeousl.
: lighted, and quite as SPLENDID and uh
G natural as Bob Acres after his entr
}, into polite society. The music, how
b ever. proved to be unchanged and good
e the chops still excellent, and, on th
: whole, the evening passed of pleasant
e enough. But it was not Evans OF old
r The wire covered boxes ranging roun
) the main hall were occupied, and
l. CHANGING to look innocently into one c
J. them. / distinctly saw young ma
o kissing young woman. Perhaps
r was his sweetheart, but it was enoug
IS to satisfy one that the glory OF tn
:. place has departed. Its glory was II
70 homeliness and it's geniality, its quar-
E. and hearty humor, its chops, potatoe
is and ale. It was a place in which on
le couId mellow and overflow about b
e. mother. about his sister, and even aboI
" his wife and his mother-in-law. 1t VIZ
% a nIace where man felt himself to
20 safe. Women were notadmitted. Goc
Sc ones did not care to go; and mlddi
le aged gentlemen do not care for u
S other sort. But all that is set asi !
Iv and Evans is like the rest, me
"a rnusical restaurant. Next year, da
w. sav the walters will wear short n
Id frocks. and sm1rk and ogle like the ba
ne oirls in the Haymarket.