Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1873-07-01
What to Wear and How to Wear 1t.
The Hat OF the seasOn-The Collar fer
Summer, and the Umbrella for In
formal Toilet. Etc.


the dented top has the Marie Stuart curve
so dear to lovers of the becoming. TX
complete the effect, trimming must Away:
be massed on the top in the ightest putt:
of crepe, o. plume, or the soft raveleC
and gros de SWisse, which are worn 81
| much to fill the dented brim to the proper
height.
Palmetto hats are the new fancy, adopt
/ ed from Paris, where the round, shallo W
4 Chhaese shapes In eoarse white splint ]:
declared to have chic of its own. 1t takes
| the place of the rough straws for which
there has been creditable fondness, but
poppy decorations and the heads of tangled
g asses are no longer admired for either as
they have too neglected look. In place Of
these, French hands line the fresh white
palmetto with pale silk, and place ruche
at the edge, wreathing ruches of crepe iisse
till It is covered on the outside, with ends
Of the same colored ribbon passed through
the straw floating behind. Trimmings for
these hats should be ofthe simplest descrip-
ton. Flowers and plumes are out Of place
on them, though two shades of ribbon are
very well employed, and these must be al
ways of slight color. The sailor hat is
worn in white chip, the brim faced with
pale blue or rose, q double fold Of watered
| ribbon the same color about the crown,
with loops at the left fastened by pearl or
silver buckle and long ends. But Ehis-as
| will be seen-is a plain but stylish dress
| hat for theatres or drives, and is only worn
| by your fresh faces. Let any woman who
has doubts of her style abjure these girlish
models for they sage" woman fearfuny,
| bringing out the worn outlines and bloom
against their own perfection in fatal man
ner. The very prettiest hats of the season
are covered with puffs aud raveled ends Of
pale blue or blonde pink silk, with perhaps
a fall of lace behind and quilliDgs Of it TN
| der tie brim. With friendly veil of clear
black net, the dots thickly wrought but far
apart and fringed with thick floss or
| chenelle-in such hat q woman defies
criticism. The plainDess suits any age and
lady of sixty is charming in this style,
while the folds and fringes soften the effect
after ones own heart. l
There are always some exquisite indi-
vidual fancies in dress hats, such as the
! fanctons of point ISceior Val.nciennes over
crepe de chine thst have been enVied fer
years. The guipure bonnet in plain rich
ness offers itself to sonsort with any
splendor or simplicity of style. 1t is made
in either black, white, or colored guipure,
! to suit the costume. The ceree and the
mixed white and brown are most admired,
the laces laid with the slightest fitness on q
plain frame scarcely tapping enough to hide
the foundation, finished with deep shaded
roses OF loops Of velvet or MORE.
The new Medice colarettes, wrongly
called the Marie Stuart, is the shape anu
size of mans coat collar and reverse in
plain silk of any color with stiff lining. In
side is placed ruche three inches deep, OF
tal in wide pleats, which is the standard
form of neck trimming now worn. The
d0zble ruches in tulle, crepe lisse and torle-
tai are passe, beside these soft, durable, yet
airy looking ruffies which soften and hide
slender neeks exposed by the turned up
tair. Vests of plain crepe and silk on
flexible foundations will be worn with
muslin and grenadine dresses. To make
these take dress waist pattern, draw the
outline ofa wide pointed collar on the back
aud shoulder and slightly curving line four
inches from the edge of each front down to
the belt. This gives the shape which is cut
out of silk or crepe edged BY valenciennes
or tulle r1ches, the front fastened with little
bows of the material and a bow of narrow
ribbons with ends placed at the back Of the
neck. Narrow and fine yalenciennes is
used for ruffies and jabots or spirals for the
throat.
In rich lace collars the Empress shape is
preserved. That is, wide, with flowing
points and deep ends forming square on
the bosom. Fichus and capes are deeper
and more pointed, with many puthngs OF
clear muslin with the valeuciennes and ine
French embroidery of which they are made.
Lace Jackets are slightly shaped to the form,
open on the back and hips, with rather
vida, long sleeves. The fayorite style is the
handmade Jackets of gupure insertion, al
ternst!ng with lack velvet of Doire ribbon
in stripes, finished with guipure border.
Fine Lama lace jackets, whichimitate thres d
lace so closely as to deceive experts, cost
from S35 to sos. Yoke lace jackets initiate
guipure patterns of the richest kird, and a
few imported in creamy white are eagerly
bought; such may be had for SO. fbe
euipure and MORE jackets ready made ;r3
S45, and the chsntilly from sou 10 SOU;
good quality costing about $40.
Common lingerie shows collars aud euts
of blue or olive percale striped with white
for negligee, as well as fine pol spotted
linen sets, which are more recherchee.
These have bandkerchiefs with borders to
match, and the fancy is to fasten the collar
with a plain gold stud, such as gentlemen
use in summer. RoHnd standing collars OF
white, two ply linen, are made quite clerical,
fastening by strap of linen with two but
tonholes which fit half inch linen buttons
on each end of the collar. This is found on
the French negligee collars and is very cool
and dainty looking for GUNNER, when to
some persons, the folds of q cravat are I'M
endurable. For that reason they will be
glad to know that bows, not cravats, are
worn at the throat. The soft, silk cravat
is tied in bow, with the loop or loops on
one side and ends at the other. Fancy
grenadire ties in either light or dark colors,
pale and Napoleon blues, lilac and pruns
puppies, cream, citron and leaf brown, ARE
finished with lace-like edges. Pale India
Grape, either with tassels, medallioDs of en-
br6dery or point lace, sprigs applied on the
ends and lace ruffles instead of fringe are
the choicest fashions for the neck,
except the white muslin ties with
insertion and ends of valenciennes. White
China crapeties, with or without very deep
netted fringes and white or. pslest grey silk
ties are the fancy among exquisites especially
with dark dresses. The white cravat is also
seen in wash blond, with puffed insertion
and ruched ends; softer and more fragile
than muslin. The long, black lace scarf is
still seen, of dotted net, three yards long,
the dots far apart, with thread border. The
scarf is worn round the shoulders, knotted
low on the bosom and the ends thrown be-
hind.
Dark green grenadiDe wells are worn again
for travelling, but the light gray crepe, with
sewing silk fringe knotted ia ihe border,
is preferred for dust-veil IN town. The
shape is square with rounded corners
the fringe must be worked in by hand.
Crepe softens the complexion delightfully."-
and is free from the high lustre of grena-
dine. a street toilet is rot complete with
out the belt of leather, which may be dark
red, green or blue, TO suit the dress, with
clasps of old silver or wrought iron by
which the umbrella and small bag may be
suspended.
The small umbrella, Of use in rain or
shine, Is preferred to the parasol for in
formal toilet, and its color may be prune-
which is blush plum--dark green or deep
blue. Traveling-bags of ligator skin, either
the grayish and hue of be natural skin or
black, but preserving the scaly appearances,