The Columbia herald. [volume] (Columbia, Tenn.) 1850-1873, 1873-06-06

it's traits so gfotesque and bizarre, with
all its lights and shades I see the
bazaar smallware-man displaying his
Russian rattans, English fancy ware,
bright-colored cloths, looking straight
before him with inexpressible tranquil.
ity when the Toorkoman woman from
the steppe hurries in his direction,
anxiously gazing upon the various goods
as though they comprised totality of all
earthly treasure. I see the armorer and
hardware-merchant, as he proves the
sharpness of his blades by running theiI
edges across his finger-nail, proclaiming
by his sparkling eye how excellent his
goods all are. Mark that fellow in
yonder small booth, gray-bearded,
shabbily attired. See how mysterious,
how uncanny he looks out of his heavily
shaded eyes That one is quack
doctor who bears about with him his
many chemicals and galenibals, stored
in bags large and small, in wooden
boxes ditto, IN many-tinted vessels OF
ancient form. In these receptacles one
would find dried roots, plants, rhubarb,
sarsaparilla, woodworking decoctions
and last, though not least in Importance,
the inevitable opium paste. Woe betide
the incautions patient who resorts to
yonder quack for advice and medicine
To him well applies the Usbeg reason
ing propounded in the question, "What
can the doctors art avail to one whose
death the Almighty has decreed?" Close
by the quacksalver's booth, what next d !
we see? A book-stall, to be sure, and a
man of letters, whom we will not call a
mere bookseller He will bind you a
book, transcribe you a book, and, to sum
up all, he will publish you book. All
what would I not give to have been able
spirit away to Europe one of these
Usberg book-stalls, with its manifold
literary treasures In those tawny-
colore1 pamphlets of coarse paper, a
whole repertory of literary wealth would
be found concealed-Usberg poetry ans
folklore, historical tracts, and other
priceless documents. When tired, /
would often drop into tea-booth with
companions, and thence, at my leisure,
contemplate the varied scene without
more tranquil scene than would have
been presented by any other capital of
Central Asia.
Not less enjoyable was it to me to seat
myself under the shade of some WIDE
spreading elm-tree near the bank OF
some reservoir, and watch the progress
of amusement to which, in afternoon
hours, certain of the public would resign
themselves. Yonder little group, each
individual with inevitable teacup in
hand, gossiping with a neighbor.
Another little group is watching the
issue of duel between a pair of lusty
rams, which bait each other with fury.
Blows are counted, noted, and betting
goes on as to which gentleman will get
second best off. Usbeg rams are uncom-
monty thick-pated. 1t is quite astonish-
ing what q number of attacks Will be
made before heads are broken-forty OF
fifty sometimes. In all these GJ-freScO
meetings there is sure to be one group
of improvisatores and story-tellers. The
speaker has not to complain of any
want of attention while he recites his
tales of by-gone heroes exploits. OF
mystic lore, or his poetry. YouDg and
old sit gaping with open mouths, until,
perhaps some speech more wonderful
than the preceding excites the congrega-
tion to ecstasy, tho recital of some deed
of bravery infiaming their imaginations
so that quiet listeners of few moments
ago run away shrieking.
The true national sports takes place
far from the towns, either on the pas
turage grounds or on the monotonous
sand-steppe in the months of spring,
when the sun is in the sign of Aries.
Then comes the Noruz feast, a remnant
of ancient Parsee culture. The popu-
lation, clad in holiday attire, all then
go to feed the sacred flame. Presents
are then made, and mutual gratulations
interchanged. Then singing and dane
ing go on day after day, until night has
sometime fallen. Then the Khivan
youth, in seried columns, bear fuel tc
the sacred fire. They pile up the tam
arisk- branches with many a supersti-
tious observance. All who can, deck
their heads with fiower-garlands, il
which roses of all varieties play q con
spicuous part. It is, indeed, an inter
esting sight to gaze upon naturally
fowery attire. Amusements upon the
stepps. whether upon wedding occasions
or otherwise, mostly consist either o1
running for prizes, the winner receiving
from the giYer of the feast often two
three, or even more presents; or else
an equestrian game, in which some girl
plays chief part There you see her or
a wild, unsaddled horse, coursing mad
ly over the sand. The prettiest girl is
usually chosen for this sport, and she
carries in her arms young lamb. Will
this prize she gaIlops away, her horse
kicking up thick clouds of sand; an6
the aim of the sport is that some young
man shall succeed in winning the lamt
from her. To succeed is no easy mat
ter, for the Amazon is armed with {
stout whip, which right and left she lays
about her Justify, until more than one
, youthful and ilot-blooded aspirant fOl
the prize gets many red welt to show
for his sport I have often taken par
in this Toorkoman recreation, and hence
: from experience can say that hardly any
contest can be more exciting. "TC
horse To horse!" is the standing CRY
of the Usbegs. Well-to-do people sticl
to their horses almost without inter
mission, just to raise themselves from
mother earth by so much higher, tx
feel more free and of greater self-im
portance. There they sit, only jus
: alighting to go through their formali
: ties of prayer, and to proclaim their af
fnity with dust.
Unfortunately, I must cast darl
and melancholy shadow over our picture
of Khivan life and manners. 1t is
: reference to the government and politi
cal condition which bears the stamp o
: utmost despotism. A traveller in Khivi
and more especially while q city resi-
dent, is Mortified by crimeswhich woul(
never have been dreamed of in Europe
not even in the darkest middle ages
Captive women bound to horses tail
) and dragged for hours together; OLE
men deprived of sight; manning, mu
; tilation, throwing from towers dow
! upon spikes or sharp stones; fayin;
alive-all these forms of torture ar
common, deeds executed by state com
mand without scruples or remorse
9 Despots everywhere are afraid of thei
, own shadows; nevertheless, in Khiva
the imposition of this iron hand doe
1 not interfere with strong sense of 10y
: atty and feeling of respect for the soy
I ereign, whose person is regarded with
| veritable religious piety. This exces
: of magisterial authority has not con
I tributed to soften the tone of Khiva1
8 manners. Taking this situation of tn
people into account, we must desire al
success to the progress of Russian arms
: Under a well-directed and solid gov
ernment, Usbeg life ii Khiva might OF
{ fer picture of tranquility and honor
r able companionship such as may nov
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