, 1873-09-21
Openings Of O. New Kind---
Orinoline Dross-Models.
Gtroot- Costume and Evening" Dresses
---EMoresoeno3 Of tho Pansy.
Recoptton-GoWns and Outside
Garments.
Tho Latest in SllnW1s.--Dcstinel
for Hats or Fatcd to
BOnnCts.

oO14ACGS&
From Our 0pn Correspondent.
NEW YonK, Sept. Is, 1873.
There has boon an "oponlng" Of now and
approved kind, AN opening Of arinolino dress-
1nolels from Paris. In whose clover brain the
idea arose, do not know; bus the idoa is capi-
tal. Tho suits arc entirely Of different shades
Of criuolnc, and, but for their thnneaB might
readily bo mistaken for complete costumes. On
each dress hro plunel samples Of the color and
goods which 1t is intended to mako the suit Of
30 TINT the effect can DO instantly discovered by
tho eyc, There arc wslking-suits, evoning-
drosaos, and homo.tlroaBcs, with ono distinguish
ing characteristics: fat trimmings. Evory width
and variety Of band, mud fold, and
piping, and very little elso, appeared In
tho decorations. Straight and Hovore out
lines iii everything pertaining to tho street, aud
simpler iosgns thon formerly for all other uses,
tho Western World will follow.
Tho protttost model Is for o
ernEEr-coBTuME OF DARK D1uE,
bordering on blaok Tho materials are ladies'
cloth and now diagonal rep. (All tho models
employ two fabrics, but not always two Hhados.)
Tho skirt Of tho drosa touches tho ground bo-
hind. It's trimming Ia four overlapping bias
folds, at 1oast eight inches vide. Tho folds al
ternatcd in stun, aud tho skirt itself is ladies'
cloth. Thoro is no ovorakirt, but q charming
Jacket supplies its plaoo. Doublo-breastod In
front md sloping smoothly over tho figure. 1t has
two olovorly.cut skirts behind, to which arc but
toned tho two back -broadtha Of tho droBs aB
though thoy had accidentally dropped out Of tho
wast-band, and lad been caught On tho jacket
to provont thoir dragging down. Tho trimming
on tho jaclsot was liko tho skirt, only narrower,
and tho quiot elegance Of tho suit was very at
| traotivo. ......
Of fawn-colorod ca,nola hair and black volvet is
alao very pretty. Tho demi-sra!n skirt has
plated douncos; tho widoat aud lowor one is Of
tho camel's hair, with three or four fngor.wldo
plaitingR Of votvet and cnmol'e hair alternating
above It. The oyerskrt., mado Of d strip of tho
round tho lips, With tho ouds folding ovor to hang
like brond sash behind. THU sash, or overskirt,
is iutoudod to bo just tho width Of tho
| goods, and So Of course, will vary according to
| tho material. Tho edge Of the oyer8kirt Ii fin
,shod with Il bias band OF tho velvot at leaat
eight inehos wide. which gives ricl, and elegant
air. Tho Jackot is almost fitting, having long
square tubs behind, trimmed on the edges with
bus yelyct two inches wido, and acroAs tho bot
tom with velvet ti1o iuehea vide. In front, .
velvet vest, broad, and cut somewhat after tho
masculine yoBtR OF hundred yearB ngo or moro,
il finished with bias band Of tho camel's hair,
| ppeu with velvet Oh the outer edge, which
rnBses round the edge OF tho JACKET up the side
seam, turning square. corner, aud forming a
tiny pocket under tho arm. triply-plaited
velvet frase, turning down all round tho thr mt,
il 4 now aud welcome variety Of ncct-ornhment.
Tie Blcoyes arc rater w,dor than coat-sleeysa for
house dresses, and haye broad, square cuffs OF
veivot, aud velvet bauds laid OH diagonally
across the upper side, from cuff to shoulder,
The upper pnrta Of this costume. over the lowe,
skirt Of tho previous one, would bo 8 6atisfao-
tory mud economical combination.
An odd cyoning robe ia called
| THE PASBY.
Naturally 1t ia mada Of silk and velvet Of tht
colors OF tho flower. The train is long, and coy
placed straight across, inBtoad OF following the
outline Of tho bottom. Each ilouuco iH hended
by rucling It yollow lk,-tAo exact tint IN .
panuy-aua aeop purple xolye a aad 1ord tho trim r
small wriuklod apron in 'front.'. finished ukt
the train. Tho whist is low, and ia formed, up
parontly, Of numerous folds Of tho violet silk
crossing iu front, tho corners reaohng below tht
belt, md tipped with tho daintiost, most perfec
pansles eyor contriycd out Of silk and velvet
indeed, the chief beauty Of this robe, wLos4
gorgeous coloring is rather ovorpoworlng tt
mla-mannorod matronH, il those Horticulture
possible folds. most becoming stylo ha'
como with these nlodols,-
LACE GERoH1BR
(not-lacc, 1nean), folded Quuker-fashion ovc
low dressos. The prettiest. neck look
prattier under q film Of laco, and it
bsnodcont effect on an, ugly neck Ia pas
, computing. Thero Id dash OF coquetry 10 thos
docate korchiets, that il in nowise displcaainl
to tho average feminine mind, and they arc dos
tiued to very active existence.
4 REcErT1oN-pnEsa,
Of threo shades Of the modern browns, is YER
simple. and attractive. The deml-train ha
8 iucI.os wide, Of the darkest shado,-th
color OF tho dress propsr,-abovo which is a lin
eer-wido bias-fold Of tho second shade. III
fold is headed by two narrow, reversed folds 9
ono of the Becoud shade. Above this is q Bpac
rep repetition % Of tic Told fold and lead
lux. Tho skirt is puffed in the back, end
draped overskirt ia simulated by q third fold an
hoa,ling. The browning o1rcot, however, is Pre-
ducod by tho jacket. This il docollote, ratho
pointed in the neck before and behind, and ha
two skirts behind, almost exactly like swallow
tailed coat On each tail Il pocket-ilap is STINT
| completed by tapping ful(ls Of tho tlree ahado
! trle sleeves arc moro bAnds covered with folds
| and tho neck is dllod by lace-kerohlef, like 4
tho low droAReH
. From plainness wo cane, and to plainnoaH II
! arc fast returning. For one. AM quito col
. | tont aud, when / reflect On the hours
anxiety aud mental diseaao these simple style
= | will sayo many OF my tollow-mortas, 1t Beon
5 nona too soon to start the reform In ruf1las.
o As yet there is absolutely nothing now in
h | OUTSIDE 0AnMRNTH.
n Tho dealoru aro determined to conBi1t
! tho SEASON warm and lale though thoro la'
). beon bnt few days since tho beginning Of Sol
Il to1nbor when light wrap laa not been comfos
d ablo Almost all tho inotropolitans who have bee
eutnmerng at hotels lavo como back to tow
s and tho Bhops would 10 full aud trado brisk
@ tho merchants would open tho novelties Of Il
season, which thoy are extremely 10th to d
RsdingoteH are 70 comfortable, howeyor, and I
popular as we'll, that when mado OF hca'
J. ment. Until the weather Is very cool, 4 red
goto. and q bright searI or shawl, folded scar
fashion will bo moro worn for Walking than an