The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-03-17
SPRING FASHIONS.
OLD MATERIALS UNDER NEW NAMES

What the Fine Weather Has Brought Forth
The Theory Of Colors and Materials
Spring Is here in name, II NOT in reality, sna
with a sense of relief we turn from the dark,
heavy Winter gOods-albeit they were 80 lovely IN
their season-tO the display OF tighter fabrics, In
whose tender colors the conventional Spring OF
the poets draws nearer and evokes visions OF tho
bright days to come.
Yet among the almost endless variety OF goods
there are few real novelties. Thus early in the
season Fashion usually selects only few which
she places in evidence. reserving the others for
time until we, in TINS uncertain climate, shall have
been aroused to the exigencies Of the case by
weather sufficiently settled to justify some enthu-
siasm ON the subject. \.
Desirable for the early season we have cash
mere In all the new shades to be used for entire
costumes, and in combination with silk oil cor
responding color. Time was when cashmere wa6
cashmere, and had nearer representative than
merino; but in these days when novelty. If only In
name, is a necessity have cashmere SiciI-
ienne, Carmeiite cashmere. cashmere d'ecosse.
faille cashmere, drap d'ete, cancels hair cash
mere, undressed cashmere, and, lastly, vigOgus
and India Gamers hair.
India cancels hair ia exceedingly light and fine
and comes in all the new shades. This fabric ~
not only woven like the ordinary cashmere, but a
quality comes with the twill reversed at intervals
so as to produce the effect OF stripes vigogue IN
another soft, light fabric which ia found in the
wood tints, and somewhat resembles the Old-tims
debeze. II is shown in the plain fabric all OF one
tint and also woven In plaids ana stripes OF the
different shades which produce u lovely effect
Cafnattas These goods especially
APPROPRIATE FOR TRAVELLING COSTUMES,
they will not crrAh easily and the colors will nor
show the drt-twO essential requisites in goods 70
be used for this purpose.
Ever welcome pongee reappears in the un
bleached and dusk -colored hues, as well in the
silver grays with which 1t is most Familiarity asso
ciated. Novelties in these goods have twilled
stripes, polka dots ana broche figures thrown up
on the right side, like the Jacquard goods OF last
season.
MOhairs have q iustrOus finish like silky wools,
and are firm, light and elegant IN appearances.
many OF the tints, both in solid cOl0rs ani
with broad stripes OF two shades.
cotton and silk goods rcappearS as usual, 1T tfAs
season,
EACH POSSESSING HIGH-sOUNDING NAME.
which excites the maginatiO and renders the dis
appointment all the keener when the fabric Is eX-
ahmed. for it usually proves that the more preten-
tiOus the name the more worthless Is the article.
They pretty and attractive to the experienced
purchaser, for they initiate as closely as possible in
they are a delusion and snare. Ia this category
may be considered the Japanese silks and popiins-
Imey are pretty 20 LOOK a. aa nee are
easily, will not withstand dampAess and shower
is their utter destruction.
In strong contrast to these are the lovely ana
durable foulards, which have grown so slowly yet
surely in favor. The new fouards come in all the
new shades but the figured varieties are In tho
darker hines OF the prevailing coors, thus showing
in more striking relief the Inevitable white polka
dots and quaint figures with which they are DO
In SILKS all the lovely colors of last Autumn arc
presented, but in the lighter and more delicate
shades BETTING the season. Mere "shadows Of
colOrs ghosts OF shades are they, yet they are in
describably lovely.
ment, culture and taste of an artist, and 1t
amounts almost to an inspiration to be able to &C.
greenish and graysh hues-and most of the greens
are gray, and the grays either blue or green-are
safe If some point of color is added In the necktle
bonnet cOifure
1t is rumOred that blue, in various peculiar
shades will be leading coler fer the season. But
and is only exceptionally becoming. Very dark
blues when placed in masses near the complexion
One OF the new blues. called Napoleon" is 40
dark almost as lapis, or indigo, but has no red
Turquoise, which is also revived, while 1t is not
the brightest is the most penetrating OF blues and
| beauty by enhancing the color of the cheeks and
bringing out the gold OF the hair.
With the various buish-green and greenish-blue
shades we are already familiar from their prev2-
| lence during the Winter, under the names Of paOn
peacock color, of which some shades are greenish-
| blue and others bluish-green; paradis, peacock
blue; lOphohore, the Dluest peacock, and ezard In
which the green predOminates.
These are almost universally becoming when
employed as points of Color but are seldom so in
masses unless the complexion is exceptionally
brilliant The difference IN these colors from last
season is hardly perceptble. The newest celOrs
are Noryege, or Norwegian gray, which has green
tnts; Christiana, gray with blue tints; punch is
also bluish-gray; monstre, dark gray-green;
agile, q dark brown. like the color in Etruscan
vases; another stylish brown is airan, or copper
color; moIdore, light, golden hue, shading on
brown; Mississippi, q lightish brown like muddy
water: verceline, gray with rosy hues; alma,
black, shading into gray. and heron, lovely green
shade.
Then we have the tea and coffee shades and q
host of grays, browns and bronzes each tnged
with the others that 1t Is difficult to decide to
which color they belong.
The redIngotc is decidedly the most distingste as
for making up most OF the new goods OF the sea-
son. The very newest is the "Alexandra," which
is double breasted and has broad revers in front.
but so arranged that the neck can be worn closed
If desired. This garment possesses q C'ac OF It's
ewn entirely differing from the NELSON" ana
ment, although both are stylish. The latter Is eS-
pecially becoming to slender, graceful figures.
In pOonaises proper Tor dressing purposes the
Camargo pun has reappeared as natural conse-
quence OF the revival OF sashes. In Overskrts also
and in train dresses worn without Overskirts this
Sashes form a feature in all toilets, whether for
the street or house they are in ANN
graceful style that may SUIT the fancy OF the wear
err. The leading style Is q sash OF SILK. made
double, about three-eighths or a YARD WIDE, ar
whole surmsunted by careless knot fastened with
buckle of let or oxidized silver. This is placed
ON the left SIDE.
THE JAUNrrKsr, PRETTIEsT BASQUE
| thus far seen is thS "Angelique," which has the
square vest so much in favor at present, and en-
tirey new style Of position In this the vest is
separate but more usually IL Is only simulated by
! the trimming as In the Claudia" also pOstilisn
basque, and the "Eaine," simple slashed basque.
| One thing ladies are to be congratulated upon,
and that Is the regained prestige OF short walking
dresses. BY sOme-the mere refned-these have
never been abandoned; but as Fashion again de-
| crees their vogue, the amateur street sweepers
will again inevitably adopt them and fersake their
self-imposed occupation.
ssWHY MEN DON'T MARRY.,s