Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1873-06-27
PERFUMES.

From the Middle Ages up 10 the last
century musk, civit, ambergris, and laveu-
der sum up the best known and most pop
ular perfumes. 1t is only of comparative
ly quite late years that the art has made so
much progress, and been enriched by so
many new Ingredients as we find at pres
ent Nevertheless, and in spite of all adj
ditions, the base of European flower scents
is contained in six flowers only, namely,
orange flowers, roses, jasmines, violets,
acacia, and tuberoses. Others that have
been tried are found of small use, and
their special odor is best given by inita-
tive compounds; as heliotrope is initiated
by vanilla dashed with almonds, and so
on. Aud to these six bases add geranium,
lavender rosemary, thyme, and some 9TH
er aromatic herbs-the last three growing
chiefly on the mountains round Grasse,
Nice, and Cannes, which are the principal
European centers for the manufacture of
perfumes-add also the peel Of bitter or
anges, of which the fruit goes to make
curacao I; the peel of ctrons and bergamots,
of which the fruit goes to feed the cows of
the district, and is good for the milk; add
musk, sandal wood, ambergris, and gum
benjamin of later days add the leaves of
the patchouli from India; wintcr-green
from the United States; various Of the
andropagons, which we call goats beard in
our own wild flowers, from Ceylon; ihlang-
ihlang, one of the anonacea from the Phi
lippine Islands wanda, chiefly from Java,
but from other places too in the Indian
Archipelago frangipanni, from both the
East and West Indies-and we have some
Of the principal sources whence our scent
bottles are filled, and the delicate soaps
and pomades perfumed. But still, where
soever the material is 10 be found the
French always remain the greatest pro-
ducers and, save as regards few eycep-
tional perfumes-as attar-9ul for one, and
aude-cologne for another-are the best
manufacturers of the sweet scents which
pervade the world.
They do an immense trade in perfumery,
and England is their best customer, as
Russia is their worst. England took, in
1867, when this table was drawn up, 44,-
500 kilogrammes of perfumery, valued at
2,546, 900 francs; Russia only 1890 kilo-
grammes, at the value of 10000 francs. AZ
ter England comes Brazil, then Belgium,
and then Spanish America; but even Brazil
does very little more than half the English
trade, and Spanish America less than half
The United States took 81, 400 kilogrammes,
valued at 344, 400 francs; and Austria only
$4,000 kilogrammes, paying for them $1,000
francs. Germany, in spite of her own
| especial industry at Cologne, took 10Y 800
kilogrammes, spending 646, 800 francs on
her purchase; but it would be interesting
to know what amount Of her own perfume
she exports, and which of her numberless
Jean Marie Farlnas has the largest clientele.
England does good trade in her own in
| digenous lavender water; but by far the
greatest proportion is exported; perfumes,
like prophets, not having much honor in
their own country-all that is foreign being
| instinctively preferred to whats home. bred,
and the question of comparative excellence
counting for nothing in thelchoice. Tie
Year Round.