New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-09-24
THE FASHIONS.
AUTUMN MODES.

SHADES IN OLD COLORS-COLORS AND MATERIALS
FOR COsTUMEs-PARIsIAN MoDELs-EIIzABETH
RUFFs AND LINGERIE.
Amid defalcations, bank suspensions re-
trenchment, and reform. woman concerns herself only
with the autocrac yet bewtching DEGREES of Fashion
Bonnets browning perfection of the toilet form
the most important consideration. The decided reVou-
ton bonnets has already been mentioned but unit"
the present opening did not fully realize the enang
leading back the days Of the First Empire french
bOnnets rather overloaded, and seldom suit lne
American face these Partisan models rom inc
houses OF Mile. Cazalong. Virot Marel' and Therese'
FayOn and other artstes of known celebrity are 'oneu
down and Ameuoanzed suit fastidous tastes Iecoi
ing from melange OF red and yellow puppies ana pes
and feathers These honnets bring with them faint
memories OF the past that is before the war LOT W'V
genii OF paper money and civil strife lone DAY Is
as a thousand wears" and seem TO be looking back
On 1880 as on The powderheaded and lace ruies OF the
first Revolution. Crowns are broad and coronet fronts
very high cut square haring; scoop shape, rs u
provinciaI visitor nayely defined. There is slight
suggestion OF cape in narrow band at the back Inc
DARING fronts yield charming display OF colorng IN
the wav Of delicate silk faoings and flowers Lyons vel
get pros de sncz a soft fine twed silk, fine felt, lace
feathers and flowers the popular materials TOT pom
nets and hats. The cOOrs are eXquisltely Quet ana
toned down There are hues OF rich spirituele olive
aud bronzes black blue Mandarin blue, blue like that
lingering the grape hrondele, SOFT lovely swal-
low blue a deep blue. translucent blue gray Of the
onyx and vet another Of the purple indigo shade and
there is too a soft dim purple Russian gray, lovely
gray like the ashen bloom of rosy plum pale, sill
very green parrot new green, and Persian green;
again warm currant color, beautiful in ITSELF but
rather too vivid for good taste warm rosy brown,
Autumn leaf brown with following tinge pigeon,
celeste, deep garnet, and, naturally, black The
ppings, facings, and other trimmings Of silk are
OF the faintest shades. Sky blue, creamy tea
rose ashes Of roses, rosemary, straw color,
pale ccrc and light lemon and all soft dove and steel
grays. charming novelty is face trimming inside
the brm of closely curling ostrich feathers. Costumes
are TO be adorned with auring and fantastic
OF Inventions feather trimming. Shaded feathers are
more fashionable than others, and neatly all are dtn
gushed for being dyed three distinct colors too pro
nounced for beauty for example, deep purple black
gradually fading into faint violet. from which springs
deep green, flushing the ends in yellow green;
vet on innovation in the shape Of magnificent plume or
deep blue, gradually sofening into the faintes sky
tint ending in "A lovely color was too perfect for
criticism The effect OF all the shades Of one color in
plume is admirable, in those cOlors that softly
blend with delicate tinges. stif uncompromisng. and
narrow are the black colOred cocks feathers and
ostrich pompons upon highcrowned brigand hats, so
severely brigandsh one turns with relief 10 a more
cOquetsh highcrOwned hat, with the broad brm turned
up at one SIDE and superb black ostrich plume curling
from the front floating gracefully at the back. Ana
there are pquant Rubens hats the like of which can be
seen in any old painting with its picturesque, wide
rolling brm turned up at side curled feathers and
flowers and ieweled ornament is all the trimming this
needs. The hats are artistic than the bonnets.
Felt comes all the dark, rich and invisible shades
in well hats to correspond with costumes
black felt Partisan bonnet OF the finest quality was
from the house Mlle Marie Cazalong, called from its
quaint shape the Dreetoire. Inside full putting
OF pink coral silk outside long ostrich plume of the
deepest softly blending into pale green drap
cry of dotted Chautiy lace behind half concealed half
revealed cluster Of satin gorgeOusy-tinted Autumn
leaves The Marechai was mass OF black thread lace
upon black velvet over the square crown reposed a
large bunch Of white transparent grapes, dead leaves
and behind high gltteTtng ornament OF let IN
the shape Of comb over fall of lace and grape ten
drills. Mousse green velvet had an exquisite trimming
OF lighter green feathers for inside trimming; Just out
side and above the brim wreathed half garland of
satin brghtly-nted Bcgona leaves, lace scarf at the
back intermixed with trailing vine A Reseda
SCOOP bonnet pped and faced out with sllvery
pale green with scanty black tule ruche Just inside
the brm; large cluster of eroseie roses peeped forth
from mass OF thread lace The two sets Of strings,
novelty Of this were of the two green's won
deru little structure Of beauty Of soft gray velvet
pped aud lined with lovely blue.
A beautiful French model was Of black velvet and
barbes OF thread lace with purple cOnyovuli and golden
eyed pansles drifting across the high coronet The
familiar Rabagas again reappears in warm plum color
vine OF from the full face trimming and the
tping are OF rose cOlored silk finely cut steel dagger
fastening Of lace drapery at the side. In black
velvet a quaint oddly had all the trimming massed at
the back high jet comb surrounded by shaded roses
ami clusters Of purple grapes with tinted vine leaves
and curling tendrils and profusion of lace. bronze
velvet was faced with pale peachblossom silk, shaded
brown and rose-cOl0red plumes, and a Shah aigrette
directly in front.
Bonnets are upon the top of the head; the juse
aeit Is at last arrived The silk velvet covers
the frame smoothly, the being oapacous enough
10 lie lightly the elaborate couture, and all Of the
back trimmings are arranged with due regard Tor the
three-nch high ruff of sweet Amy Robsart memory.
Flowers are Ddescrbably beautiful the finest being OF
elk and satin, from thelsimple little daisy we all love to
the graceful pyramdal foliage OF tall ferns, pure water
lilies and the pink and blue lOtuses OF Egypt. But the
queen OF reigRs triumphant-he rose is the most
popular OF ALL as it has been even back TO the Greeks
After the rose find marvellous creations in geranium
and oak and BegOnia leaves touched in vivid tnts Of
scarlet nj chrome by frost And there pale lilies and
crimson pomegranate buds of satin, velvet leaf or
brown and dying, II blghted by FROST and the leaf
tendris ecked with yellow andbrown decay and worm
eaten.
LET coronets are made on black crinOline in finest
embroidery OF tiny cut Jet; bands Of fine jet and
dadems and COMBS embroidered with little cut beads,
plumes of glittering cut bugles, wings, hoops and
agretes together with slides and horse shoes OF jet and
bright steel nail heads upon these are all used upon
bOnnets aud hats. The diamond steel for Oyercoats s
very expensive it Is cut STEEL and each little beading
or nail head is rveted on. There steel hoops Of
this description large bracelet. scarf OF lace
passed through OF these Others are placed for
ornament with loops of ribbon and barbes OF lace.
Black beads be used in among flowers are made Of
stiff lace crinOine edged and embroidered with jet
beads aud held in place by fine wires These can be
made at home by any ingenious fingers, and make an
excellent background for deepred roses There are
exquisite ornaments in opaescent mother OF pearl TO be
half hidden in snowy Marabout tufts Imported ribbons
double faced thick and heavy as satin, black upon
one side on the other a color corresponding with the