Wilmington journal. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1844-1895, 1873-09-05
FALL SILK.

The silks imported from Lyons for
the Fall season are soft gros grains OF
medium fine reps, with brighter lustre
than those of last year. The cloth
colors now in vogue are again brought
out in deeper hues so nearly approach
ing black that they are we'll named
''invisibles. Conspicuous among silk
importations are the great quantities
of the dark blue shades; summer
linens, with cashmere, camel's hair,
and other fine wool fabrics, have be-
come SO popular in thes hues that it
is prophesied that dark nl1e suits will
find especial favor as Wint.r costumes;
and by way of further conlmendation
merchants say that these French tlues
are equally becoming to blondes and
brunettes. Under the general head
of gT0s Jleu, manufacturers send
various shades with specific names,
such as black-blue. which is very
nearly black; old blue, like the color
seen in English china; indigo blue and
the dull Napolean blue were introduce
ed in the spring; tourmaline is the
color of the stone of that name, and
mandarin IS the familiar Chinese blue.
There are also mongrel blues with a
dash of foreign color-as, for instance,
the gray-blues, among which is q sea
tint, "deep and dark blue ocean"
color, appropriately called Byron; a
still grayer, more murky shade, is
EuIine blue, while a lighter tint is
known as rOnaarin, or rosemary.
Greenish-blues are not as largely i'm
ported as formerly, but few of the
peacock shades are shown and labeled
canard blus, or else hirO7delle, or
swallow blue, soft dark shade of
peculiar beauty.
Since the advent of the Shah the
green shades are all dubbed Persian
green, but there is nothing in the
name, for they retain precisely the
yellow tinges familiar to us in olive OF
bronze green; the tea green's of various
shades, with sage, myrtle, moss and
rifle green, are all reproduced. Among
bronZes, which are darker than ever,
brown bronze and black bronze will
probably find most favor. Pure and
unadulterated shades of brown are so
dark that the color is invisible accept
in certain lights; in this list is Turco
brown, corbeau or crow black brown
and Cncrc or ink brown. The clearest
grays are the stylish ardoise or slate
gray and.dark iron gray. Mixed blue
grays and the reseda-tinge green
grays are again displayed, but are no
longer new; oXldiZed silver gray, and
a dark purple gray that will look we'll
assoc. .ated with violet, are especially
admired. Deep royal purple, plum
color, puce and blue prune are largely
imported. The new gruseittc, or cur
rant-color, and French ecortGte, which
is softer and darker than ordinary
scarlet, are the only red shades found
amoLg rich gros grains. Fer evening
silks are those pale shadowy tints that
require gas-light to deepen them and
develop their beauty; these are labelled
rose pastel, Indienne blue, Nile green,
and gris,t,,. or pearl-color.
WINTER GARNTTURF.
Galloon ribbon in which jetand steel
beads are woven will, 1T is said, be pre-
ferred to vine passementerie for trim
ming this winter. Thick, heavy passe-
mentcrie cords worn swinging from
the shoulder have not met with favor
here, but are again largely imported.
Fringes of every des scription are brought
out; there are fringes entirely of jet,
and others of silk with jet drops on the
end; sewing-silk fringe, bullion fringe,
tassel fringe, and the gotfered OF
crimped tape fringe now SO much used.
There are also heavy wool fringes for
trimm ;ng camers hair diagonals and
other rOugh-surfaced wool fabrics. =
MORE ribbons for bows and sashes,
and MORE cut on the bias for folds,
bands and facings, ARE shown as part
of the stock of trimming departments.
FRENCH BoNNETs.
The first importation of French hon
nets for the autumn shows something
like return to original bonnet shapes.
They have broad crowns and high
coronets cut i'll square trrrets, or else
dipping fronts with tlaring sides.-
They have also very full face trim
mings. while at the back is hand that
suggests a return to oapes. Most of
the trimmings i'll the way of flowers
and feathers are massed on the back,
but there is very little pendent drapery
of lace, ribbon or silk. POmpons
aigrettcs, and ornaments of cut steel
or Jet ARE stuck directly in front, in
imitation of a conspicuous ornament
worn by the Shah. The face trimming
is full vine of leaves, wreath of
flowers, or else twist of silk knotted
at intervals or else dotted with flowers.
The Rabagas, which may be either a
bonnet or hat, according as strings are
added on omitted, is again imported.
One lovely model is of black velvet.
with high coronet sloping lower Gil the
sides. Below the curonet, AS face
trimming, is torsade of hiue and
reseda royale passing plainly above
the forehead and fastened i'll large
loose knot on the left side. A bow of
standing loops is made of these two
colors, and with pompon, is placed
upright III front; royale bands pass
around the crown, with very short ends
hanging behind.
Gross de SueZ, a soft, flexible, finely
repped silk, will be used for trimming
bonnets of velvet, straw and royale.
Large groseille red roses brighten
bonnets of the sombre fashionable
hues. Trimming silks of very light
shades are used as facings and other
garniture on dark velvets. Some OF
these combinations are new and pecu-
harly pretty; for instance, bonnet of
invisible brown velvet has pale blue
facings and purple pansies Il violet
velvet bonnet has resede pippings on
the crown, with groseille roses hang
lug low on one side a black velvet
bonnet shows pale blue plated IA
cling in front, with coronet wreath of
green leaves, while dropping low be-
hind is a long ostrich plume of mingled
green and blue shades; Il garnet velvet
bonnet has soft gray ficings; and a
Persian green has trimmings of a
lighter shade, with groseilie roses.
it is said flowers will BE more worn
than is usual on winter bonnets. Os-
trich pompons and aigrettes will be
more fashionable than short curled
tips. Long plumes sweeping over the
crowns of round hats are already in
favor, and will advance in price when
fall millinery is displayed in the retail
stores.
FALL SUITS:
Private modistes and the furnishing
| houses are preparing dresses for the
| early fall from directions sent oyer by
their commissioners in Paris. Long
waists. tight sleeves. and high ful
rufts are considered the necessary fea
| taros FOR giving style to the various