The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-01-16
CUBA BY RAIL-.
From Havana to Villa Clara
Through the Island.
An ABOLITIONIST CUBAN PLANTER.
The Complaint of Two Exchequers
Draining Cuba.
BARRACKS, BUT NO SOHOOLHOUSES.
Sunday Scenes Among the Slaves
Of the Antilles.
THE REGION OF HOSTILITIES.
Scattered Bands that Keep
Up Spanish GarrisOns.
ANOTHER YEAR OF THE REBELLION CERTAIN.
THE REGION OF HOSTILITIES.
Scattered Bands that Keep
Up Spanish GarrisOns.
ANOTHER YEAR OF THE REBELLION CERTAIN.
Our Special Commissioner Starts
cat His Own Risk"

VILLA CLARA, Dec. &c. 1872.
After waiting patiently at Havana four days Tor
my credua, or permission to travel, was informed
by the Consul that the authorities would issue
none until the I'd Of January. Thinking that had
already been delayed q SUFFICIENT length Of time by
this humbug expressed my opinion pretty freely
on the matter and informed the Consul that with
permission or without, would set out on the fol-
lowing morning unless the police arrested me-
His advice was not to attempt to do SO, but as
had made up my mind he vised my passport for
this town. where arrived yesterday without any
trouble or interference from the Spanish officials
II they only continue to let me severely alone
shall get on all right. Travelling in this country is
by no means the pleasant distraction it can be
made in the United States or in Europe. The
trains for the most part start at the most unrea-
sonable hours, and as there is only one train each
day between distant points the traveller is obliged
to get up some time in the middle of the night in
order not to lose the solitary chance he possesses
OF reaching his destination. II was with some
feeling OF regret that quilted Havana for In the
few days passed in that city had become intimate,
or rather Tie, with good many Of the editors, who
are constantly threatening the United States with
800 years Of war and desolation; but, however
Narouches they may be in print, in the intercourse
OF daily life they are charming and agreeable COM
paniOns. 1t was, confess, with
SOMETHING OF MIsGIvNG
that for the first time entered the precincts ofthe
Didrf0 de la Marina and the VOC de Cuod, the very
stronghOlds Of volunteer sentiment. Nor were my
first impressions OF one Of these red0ubtable bu-
reaus at all favorable. There was something mys-
ferrous and gloomy In 1t that consOrted badly with
my preconceived ideas OF what newspaper office
should be. am not sure that did not start ON
meeting the familiar form OF type stand set
up beneath the arched entrance, under the
delusiOn that 1t was some instru-
ment Of torture for the punishment of any one who
dared to express an opinion that Spanish rule In
Cuba was not the most enlightened, liberal and
paternal. Mounting the broad flight of stone steps,
that look dingy and time worm there was an al.
most irrepressible inclination to peer into the cor
ners lest some enraged volunteer, mistakng me
for the expected HERALD flibuster, should bring
my mission and my cares to an end with a sweep
OF his machete. All these Impressions, however,
vanished on reaching the editorial rooms. There
reigned here an air OF order and respectable an.
tiquity strangely contrasting with the progressive
and not over orderly appearance Of some American
newspaper establishments. The heavy desks, and
their SILENT grave-looking occupants appeared to
me as If they might have belonged to past age,
when the laborious clerk wrote INCREASINGLY with
beautiful flourish Of pen. was Immediately intro
known to the famous
SENIOR JUAN DE ARIA,
the ablest champion OF the Spanish cause in Cuba.
He received me with all the polished courtesy OF
the Old school, to which he is proud to belong and
expressed himself favorable to the carrying out OF
my mission. He also promised to use his influence
to prevent any obstacle being thrown in my way.
In person Senior de Aria is Of medium size, with
well-formed head, which impresses one rather as
penetrative than as broad or powerful in its char
acter Cautious in the expression OF his opinions
he strikes one as diplomatic rather than candid,
and his phraseOlogy is polished rather than forc.
bic or convincing.
sIGNoR CONT,
the editor OF the Toz de cuba, the contrary is
vehement and passionate in the expression OF his
convictions, and has more OF the vvacity OF the
Frenchman than OF the Formally OF the Spaniard.
Neither approved OF the excuses committed by the
volunteers, or, as they charge, by portion Of
them; but the manner in which the dissent was in
each case expressed was characteristic Of the man.
There were others, too, not less interesting but
not so prominent, whose senso,anza will one day
try to sketch for the American public but for the
present they must remaN In shadow.
LEAVING HkTANA BY RAIL.
At ten minutes to six A. NJ. a ferryboat, built on
the American model, carried me to the east side OF
long, low brick structure, having outwardly the
appearance OF church. At first was inclined to
think that one of these buildings had been turned
to account, but my opinion became modified on
entering. Most OF the steamboat passengers were,
in the phrase of the country, embarked the rail-
wav. 1t would be diaicult to find anywhere more
motley assemblage. In the five minutes that our
passage across the harbor occupied had ample
opportunity to note the peculiar features OF the
scene. The dim lamps threw q faint and sickly
light over the passengers, who were OF many races
and various c0l0rs. There were the planters and
their slaves, the curious traveller and the business
men, all forming a strange and weird picture under
the nickering light OF the oil lamps. For the most
part the negroes and Chinese carried with them
bundles, which, in all probability, contained all their
worldly goods. They appeared TO be
wRErcHED BEINGS, IGNORANT AND DEGRADED
10 the last degree. A few coolie servants pre-
served by good fortune their appearance rational
beings; Out those whom o sad fate mad condemned
10 the apors OF the neld gave evidence In their per-
sons OF tne prutaizing influence OF slavery In its
worst forms. The colored men on board the little
ferryboat were the first specimens OF plantation
slaves that had seen, and the Impression they
made on my mind was certainly very unfayorable
to the system--an impression that farther acouaint
ance Win THIS SAD subject has intensified Before
the starting OF the train was introduced TO
CUBAN GENTLEMAN
on his way to his estate. He was save.ovner
but he frankly admitted to me that the system was
demoralizing and indefensibe. He said that were
II not for the suspicion and hatred he would draw
upon himself he would at once free his slaves but
that a. he could not do this he treated them
with Justice anu humanity. In order to allow to
Judge for myself he pressed me to visit his estate,
prbmisng to explain to me its most intimate
WQrklngs As 1t would have involved