The new Northwest. [volume] (Portland, Or.) 1871-1887, 1873-11-28
Fall Fashions.


trated on our first page (of which q cut
paper pattern will be furnished) con-
sists of n tight-fitting dOuble-breasted
redingOte, and a narrow French round
skirt, short enough to escape the ground.
This makes a trim and tasteful cos
tune, and the pattern will be found an
eXcellentmOdel forsuits Ofvigogue, serge,
de bege, cashmere, English diagonals,
and the various soft wool goods that are
donned with the first cool days, and
worn, with some additional wraps,
throughout the winter.
The long, simply shaped redingOte has
the favorite Marguerite back with the
four broad forms OF the wide English
back. The drapery is brought in below
the waist and in the middle seam; the
result is the appearance OF the now
stylish long waist, with the drapery
accumulated at the back, and palmer
sides. A belt with buckles back and
front is worn usually, but if the figure
is fine, round, and slopes well into the
hips, the belt is dispensed with. The
front of the redingote is excellent for
cold weather, as it is double-breasted,
and folded over closely by tapping the
revers TO the left; the revers, however,
may be faced with silk, turned over
like gentleman's coat collar. and worn
open at the throat over a vest or waist
Of silk or the dress material, or else over
a white habit-shirt. The reader is re-
minded that this redingOte, though
called "tight-fitting," must not be fitted
as snugly as those basques and dress
waists that are lined with drilling and
furnished with whale-bones. 1t must
fit smoothly, falling closely to the fig
ure without wrinkle; but as the body
is merely lined with thin silk, or far
mer's satin, or thick cambria, il must
not be tight enough to draw in the
seams or to get the garment out Of
shape. Ladies who have slender fig
ures, and those who suffer from cold,
line the redingOte waist with flannel;
but this gives thick seams, destroys the
shapely curves, and makes a clumsy
garment. Ii is far better to use thin
lining, and wear over a sleeyed waist
coat, or sort of basque of chamois-skin,
or of soft dark flannel, or else Of black
silk lightly wadded and quilted. 1t
would not be necessary to add that the
skirt of the garment must not be lined,
did we not frequently see the graceful
drapery of soft wool fabrics destroyed
by Innings of paper muslin or stifieI
crinoline. The narrow collar i'm the IL
lustratiOn is turned down, but on many
stylish garments il is worn standing
and fiaring; a ruff of the silk is also
used occasionally, but is scarcely In
keeping with the plainness Of this over
dress. The coat sleeves are very close
fitting; the cuff may be Of silk or the
material piped with silk, and the same
is true Of the side pockets. The buttons
are moulds covered with silk, or else
any of the fashionable dark metals oi
smoked pearl. The usual trimming
around the edge is a blue band of the
material two or three inches wide, piped
on the upper edges with silk. Ball
fringe or melted fringes of wool are used
if more Ornamentation is desired. Very
little colOred lace is worn this winter.
The French round skirt is described
elsewhere. 1t is only few inches mar
rover than the ordinary walking skirt,
but is shorter, and the side and front
breadths are sewed plainly to the waist,
massing the entire fullness on the back
breadth.
Many new wOOlen suits made by this
design have been visible Oh the cool
autumn days, and they are the perfec-
tions OF neat, simple, and economical
attire. The entire suits are made Of the
various goods of very fair quality that
eAAE sbAA ~ LlAE llbDuAaA DAAEE VI 81 =
yard, or even as low as 80 cents; lower
priced goods are apt TO be inferior, and
mixtures of cotton and wool. Very
dark black-blues, maroon, leaf brown,
and invisible green are the choice col
Ors, and good black is also found in
these materials. The prediction that
blue would be the popular color of the
season, is more than verified, for al
ready blue suits have become "com-
monn on the streets. Ladies make q
mistake i'm selecting blue shades that
are too light and bright; unless the
blue l. ~ dark as indigo-indeed
scarcely more than blue-black-it makes
commonplace costume. The long
dark-blue pOlonaise, fastened by silver
or steel buttons, and worn over black
silk skirt, is a favorite costume foI
morning and afternoon walks, travel.
ing, etc. CamePs-hair, waterproof
cloth, or cashmere, is selected for tn,
Over-dress.
PI.EATINGS AND FOLDS OK SKIRTS.
The universally worn side pleating
and bias folds for trimming dress skirt
are arranged in various pretty fashions
The simplest plan is 10 put straight
around the skirt two rows Of side pleat
ing, each six inches deep, placed IA
enough apart 10 prevent tapping, ant
each headed by bias band, or rathel
a fold, of the dress material, or else sill
lined with foundation muslin, anC
simply stitched on the upper edge
by the sewing machine. The pleat:
are cut across the cloth, and hemmec
on the lower edge by hand. This trim.
ming is as popular as the two gathered
len-inch fiounces were on summer
dresses. Another arrangement has 8
pleating an eighth of a yard deeI
around the edge Of the skirt, then Q
group OF these tapping folds, a second
piealngi and three more folds. The
upper group Of folds has no upright
Pieating TO head it, as was lately the
fashion, but Is merely stitched on. One
OF the most elegant black silk costumes
seen on Fifth Avenue has the dami.
polonalse illustrated in Ba-ar No 40
Vol. VI, with the round skirt trimmel
with three rows of side pleating. eacI
eight inches deep, placed Separately
without heading, and merely stitched
OH an inch from the top, and also eaugh
lower down by a thread on the wront
side, leaving the edge of the pleating 4
hang loosely like a gathered flounce
Other black silk dresses have alternat
velvet and silk folds in groups with sill
pleatings between, or else scantil,
gathered velvet fiOunces with silk pleat
ings on the edge. With such blacl
silk skirts jet galloOn, jet fringe, an
embroidery in which jet appears ar