Northern Ohio journal. [volume] (Painesville, Ohio) 1872-1896, 1873-11-01
New York.
FALL. FASHIONS.
NEw Y

FALL FASHIONS.
b -'
NEw YORK, August 30, 1873.
Among the late importations in goods
Of the line of fabrics for cloaking, the
most novel are the sealskin plush and
the Irish frieZe. The sealskin cloth is a
heavy woolen fabric of French manufac-
t,lre, with Il deep frili of the rich brown
color of finely eolored sealskin, and so
perfect an imitation rs hardly to be dis
from the skin of the best
Shetland seal at the distance of few
PAGES. The Irish frieze is a. heavy,
furry material, generally of the natural
color of the wool, while it is TO be found
in dark navy blue, dark myrtle green,
brown, wood colors, and in the various
shades OF plum color. Beaver cloth tor
ciOaks still retain POPULARITY For
drapd'ere, new material
called epingline, and heavy Biarritz
cloth are in use. For opera icloaks the
most fashionable are the different var
ieties of Algerine cloth. This is a beau
titlu material of French manufacture.
which is generally striped the color OF
the ground, but sometimes in contrast
ing colOrs, and sometimes with an i'll
of gold thread. a beautiful
variety OF this fabric has the stripes OF
plush and figured satin, presenting an
elegant effect by artificial light. A uiag-
onal cloth with Il heavy frill is of recent
adoption for this purpose, and being of
a creamy rather than IL snowy whiteness
is made exceedingly handsome by trim
ming with the palest shades of buff yak
lace. Drap du Sicilienne, in white and
delicate shades of rose color, blue, lilac,
lavender and maize; Irish poplins, i'm
white and pale colors, silk colors, and
white and pale shades Of cashmere, are
also used for wraps for the opera.
The most recent cloak that has appear
ed in our city is revival of the deep,
loose sacque which fifteen years ago
bore the name of ''the Raglan," a wrap
much more deserving TO be called i
cloak than anything which has been
worn of late years. \ very elegant
Raglan was made OF Irish frieze of the
ecru color, and trimmed with band of
the red Russian fox fur, headed by.
bands of Hercules braid. The sleeves
were flowing; upon the front were
large poches; across the back. from the
left shoulder to the centre, ut the waist
line, was festooning OF heavy silk
cords, and finishing the front aud con-
fining the pockets TO the body of the
cloak were large buttons OF mother-o
pearl.
And no decrease has there been in the
popularity of the s'Dolman," Il mantle
with IL half-fiuting back, shawl-shaped
sleeves, and-this season-the pelerine
front, the last being the only departure
i'm the cut from the mantle for last win
ter. The DOlman, made of sealskin
plush, has 10 trimming save Ornamen-
tai buttons, while usually ladies of good
taste prefer the frog tastenings, or pass
ementerie agraffes, us more fully carry
ing out the appearance OF the veritabic
sealskin, i'm the finishing. The Dolman
in goods with a plain surface Is peculi-
arly suceptibie OF Ornamentation. The
handsomest to be seen nave been literal
ly covered with embroidery, either in
satin stitch with an intermingling OF cut
jet beads-sOmetimes jet and steel-tam-
bour work, with the beads or soutaching
while for finishing was heavy fringe,
upon some specimens OF the mantle
headed by ruche of ostrich feathers.
If of velvet the Dolman has generally a
trimming of guipure face, and heavily
beaded passementerie.
An opera cloak cut in this style was of
pale lavender colored Sicilienne cloth,
trimmed with chenille fringe tipped
with satin acorns and headed by band
of glistening white Derbyshire spar. A
second cloak of rose-pink gros grain silk
had trimming of white crimped braid,
headed by band of white silk embroid-
cry. A third cloak Of white Sicilieune
cloth was thickly covered with white
silk embroidery, inwrought with fine
cut steel beads and Derbyshire spar
bugles, and was trimmed with beaded
fringe. The effect by gas-light was
very elegant. SOrtie du bal of rich
white silk velours iii the Dolnan shape
was trimmed with a band of white fox
fur. And, in passing it may be said
trimmings of this fur for light wraps
will he much more fashionable than ever
before.
"'Fhe Talma" is also classed among
the fashionable wraps, and the most pop
t,lar of this style is the tsaquc talma''
with sleeves and the donble cap. En-
broidery as finishing for wraps of this
description is seen, but always without
fringe, while without embroidery IA band
of some one or other of the fashionable
furs is considered the most suitable and
elegant trimming.
s'The cardinal has again appeared,
but so modified by the inlf-fitting back
as to give almost the same effect as s'the
Dolman," Reversible cardinals of the
heavy French tufted cloth with the
double face are very fine for extra wraps
for the evening or the carriage. As an
extra wrap and for evening wear "the
Afghan" is again coming into favorable
notice. The finest specimens of this
handsome mantle are of Turkish Otto
man cloth in alternate stripes of silk
and wool. The style is that of wide
scarf, slashed at the bottom, folded dow II
at the top, and fastened in a bournons,
and finished with rich wOolen fringe
tied in and plated so as to form to the
fringe avery beautiful heading.
For morning street wear, for ladies
and for misses, there is no wrap more
popular or more deservedly popular than
the English walking jacket. 1t is SIM
pie, yet stylishi comfortable without
being cumbrous; never can quite be-
come oldfashioned, and can be made up
with slight expense. For this jacket
sealskin plush and Irish frieze will be
much used. The plush will need no
trimming. Jackets of Irish frieze are
trimmed with Il band of heavy silk, Il
band of a contrasting color of the frieze
or Hercules braid: or will be simply
bound with the silk braid used for hind
Ing gpntlemen's coats, White and smok-
ell pearl buttons, buttons of cut steel,
cut jet, oridized silver, and enameled
steel are all used in the finishing of jack
cts, mautles. aud cloaks, Rcaver cloth
and stout drap d'etc arc still used for
jackets,
With the calder weather which; we
may expect by the middle of November
if not sooner, the straws, chips, and
Ofh nh in
will be discarded, an9 bonnets and hats
of velvet and felt will be appropriated.
In shapes we have 1.-THE Directoire," "
tthe InrrOyabie," t.the Cavalier" /" sthe