The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-06-12

were full OF mud ana melted snow and any one
who has seen a country town during Spring thaw
can imagine II. The public ofIices being shut,
had considerable difficulty IN obtaining my road
pass but finally got OF by evening, glad enough to
escape from the miserable apology for a hotel,
where, as Lent seemed kept here with the utmost
strictness, could get nothing 10 eat but fish. In
Uralsk and indeed through all this portion OF the
country, could not help noticing the great
gravitaton toward Central Asia Every one
met talked TO me with interest because
was going there; spoke OF their friends and
relatives who were there. and their desire to 60
themselves. On walking out IN the afternoon at
Uralsk saw crowd OF young CossacEs Just re-
leased from the army, who were trying TO md
places and servce-a sort OF employment bazaar.
All were anxious to get to Turkestan and Tashkend,
could not but recall the exodus to California in
lS49.
The journey Of 200 miles from Uralsk to Oren-
burg, along the left bank OF the River Ural, was
easily made, except that often had great difficulty
about horses. as they were oil retained for the
use o. General Kryzhanonsky, the Governor Gen.
eral OF orenburg, who was expected on his way to
st. Petersburg. IL was only by askiful diplomacy,
and the assertion--which fortunately was true
that ! had seen telegram from the Governor
General putting on his journey, that was able to
BCt Ou anu AZ VII tilc lbt VI April, tcu udys
from leaving st. Petersburg, l arrived at Oren.
burg, the threshold OF Central Asia.
THE EQUIPMENT FOR THB ROAD
think that lew Of my friends would have recog.
missed me had they seen me driving into town. l
wore sheepskin coat with the wool inside-the
Characteristic winter dress OF the Russian peasant
hinge felt boots on my feet several scarfs round
my neck, and brown cloth bashlyk over my head.
Add TO this pair OF black goggles on my eyes as q
protection against the snow glare, and q face
burned bright red, from which the skin had already
half peeled on. My nose is red even now. and
fear that oil the heat OF Asia will not make It re-
cover from the freezing 1t got on that journey.
think looked more than anything else like q pre-
fessional diver In lull panOpy. Orenburg Ia place
where one meets the extremes OF civilization and
OF barbarsm-the culture and fashions Of Western
Europe In the large houses Of the officials and
the lie and manners OF Kirgheez, Bokhariots and
Khivans IN the Bazaar. At better season
should probably have been charmed with the
boulevards along the river and the white Box
hariot mosque, with its graceful mneret set in
the MIDST OF pretty garden, and should have
examined Its museum and public institutions.
and have studied the great progress which this
frontier city is making. But then the streets were
filed with snowdrifts, and had little leisure to
spare from filling cartridges and making my neces-
sary preparations. AS hencefOrth l had to depend
entirely on myself had to lay in a stock OF pro-
visions, dishes and cooking utensils; buy vehi-
Gle and secure servants who could interpret for
me. Through the Kindness OF Tartar profess
sor OF Arabic and Persian l managed TO hire
an excellent man, who had made several journeys
TO various parts or Central Asia with General
Kryzhanofsky, and who spoke all the languages
necessary. He is Tartar named Ak.Mametef, and
hoe,
got with him q young Tartar. Achmet who loses
no opportunity to help me. Only one kind OF q
travelling conveyance can be used here-a "taran-
tass''-a sort OF covered carriage, resting on two
long poles instead OF springs AS the sledge roads
were still good had to have the wheels taken or
and the "tarantass" put on runners ready to be
changed back whenever the snow gave out.
have found It most comfortable vehicle very
warm and convenient and have got SO used to 1t
in this long journey, where travel day and night
without nternission, that, in spite OF the iolts
Of the road sleep almost as com fortably as in
bed.
WANDERING THROUGH THE EASTERN COUNTRIES
TEACHING"
In making my preparations l was greatly as
sisted by the only American IN Orenburg, Mr.. John
p. Groves. a Bostonian, who came to Europe years
ago to study music, and who after taking the first
prizes for the violin at the Conservatives OF rus
sells and Leipzig has been drilted by late into this
remote corner OF the world Mr.. Groves is In the
government employ as the Military Musica
Director OF this district but think lie occasionally
signs Tor home, and 1t is really pity that his re-
markedly great talent should be wasted here.
UNCLE SAM TURNS UP.
At Orenburg was fortunate enough to meet
Mr.. Schuyler the efficient Secretary OF the American
Legation, who, after ably performing for more
than year the duties Of Charge d'Afraires at
ST. Petersburg had determined to add 10 his
already very extensive knowledge Of Russia by
undertaking journey through Central Asia. Mr..
Schuyler will be the first foreigner since the Rus
sian occupation to visit Tashkend, Samarcand,
and KOkan and proposes 10 return through Sbe-
ria, or, II possible Will go to Kashgar and thence
TO India. The opportunities he will have Of seeing
everything and everybody will enable him to bring
back very valuable and accurate information. As
a companion is always desirable on such q long
journey, Mr.. Schuyler and I speedily agreed to
travel together as far as possible, thereby saving
much in time, expense and horsenesh. We there
fore kept the "tarantass' for ourselv cs and our
small bags, and put our luggage with one OF the
servants in another open sledge.
At Orenburg was surprised at the slight i'm
portance attached to tee campaign against Khva,
possible complications which might arise from it
being either unthought Of or ignored. The expe-
dittons had all set out in good order, and all ine
gence received from them was satisfactory. The
campaign was regarded much in the same light as
we in New York regard the news OF fresh eypedi
ton against the Apaches in Arizona. And. indeed.
between the Apaches and the Khivans there Is
really no very great difference.
THE URAL MOUNTAINS.
From Orenburg our route lay directly eastward
to OrsK, the farthest outpost OF Europe. and the
last Geographic station in this direction. At
one point the road turned TO the left from the
Ural River, which we had been following, and for
more than nifty miles We were entanged In the
Ura Mountains. Here they are not high, and
are easily crossed. Though the range was here 30
low vet 1t had all the characteristics OF mountain
scenery and the view rom some Of the ridges