New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-04-26
THE FASHIONS.
CONTINUATION OF SPRING OPENINGS


AND PARAsoIs.
If ladies were a subject of science in regard
alone, and H. like the stars Shells flowers, and
minerals they were to DO characterized and descrb
by their appearance and traits soul
and nature what complicated and perplexing problem
in natural history womankind would be- Curious
ampes of the extravaganza Of dress presented by
French and English history and fast being
tated new; then sleeves were nearly trailing the
ground; turban or lofty inter surmounted the feath-
and ribbons floating from the apex there far
thnRaes and patches narrow skirts Powered, figured,
slashed duplicated; eot1tTes Ike castles, pyramids,
canOpes. butterflies, flowers. The same styles return
at stated periods There aso progressive and retro
grade movement in the manner OF wearing bonnets. Not
long ago they tipped forward 10 an angle of danger
TO the OF the Now they worn 80 far
back the nnocents abroad wonder how in the world
they retain their gravity and 30 between Jrdus
nightcap and a French rabagas, TO say nothing Of
charming eoquettish Watteaus, IHcrOEabies, Repub-
lques and others, how choose Yet Ia bonnet
entitled profound respect the apex to the 1ounced
pyramid the cornice to the pillar OF fashion, and vrt
ally claims the first attention. From the famous house
OF Mantel and Ther6se whose magic names alone stamp
perfection bonnet, comes a Belgian whole STRAW
meaning not spit-rabagas Black velvet surrounds
the crown the flowing brim faced with the most deli
pale color silk, with fun plated trimming
Of faint blue moussene ribbon inside the brim at the
back clustered the pale violet Of the Persian lilac, tea
dark twigs and MOSES. From the same DdgdziH
is bonnet OF snowy chip, distinguished for its sim
pcity the trimming Of palest blue ribbon, and an eI-
quiste blue ostrich feather curling the crown and
floating gracefully at the back with rose inside the
brim. For this simple thing the price $50. The
amazed public protest-argue thus ANY one can trim
a bonnet with blue ribbonW Yet as Madame the de-
signer would say the soul Of the artistic breathed
into that bonnet and it possibly proudly these
Spring DAYS upon some blonde tower. rabagas with
Male. Hagnier Rue de Something, in the lin
ing, was regarded cheap at $50 1t was
miracle Of exquisite grace in its black Brussels net
profusely ornamented with wreaths OF tiny my
osotis rOsebuds and Ivy leaves The long black vail
attached was embroidered in detached sprays on its
edges, with green nossy silk leaves upon these
fastened a tiny cluster OF the blue myosotis. One of
Vrnots was in absnthe and black net OF the quanrest
shape imaginable defyng pen description Three broad
loops Of black tdie lined with absinthe, great
bouquet On top Of pink and yellow rose-ouds, and
long tendrls OF leaves fell behind.
The Repubique, from Groux, is true Partisan bonnet
Of extraordinary contrasts the Of the
facture of Tonelle, the most famous flower maker OF
France. The crown imposingly high. and il
made OF Napoleon blue, almost indigo the hariDg
brim was faced with the de Nile green the feather
was OF the hue with arette Of mustard color
the bandeau of charming color passing entirely
around and falling long behind. caught by
a cluster Of pink roses. To imagine the "Meroyable,"
remember the tops Of Od-fashioned bugges, and
heade0vering called by grandmothers "calash."
This is made OF the palmetto Of Florida, sent
across the water be stamped by Partisan art
aud ladies expected make themselves absurd in
the Loroyabe the seashore and not where there
trees Tennyson has inspired the mOdstes with the
of Lynette; 80 have "tp-tlted Lynetes" for paste
raj days Of summer trimmed with feathery grasses and
brown twigs: perhaps scaretipoppy the faint pink
OF trembling harebes. But be IL understood that young
ladies must examine their BEFORE purchasing for
- hat dtvffI
Roman an aquiline. Grecan, yet a pugi charm
ing hat was OF pale reSeda; side a mass Of
crushed deepening In coora the hearts, an ostrich
feather twined around the back embOdying the two
shades The imported bomets ranged at this exposition
from $50 to S55 The materials ldces, and flowers
exquisite in texture and coorng, yet massed together
in strongest possible contrasts that cavs at the
bad taste. But we are virtually the slaves Of fashions
and conventions instituted by prejudice and
classes. The eccentrictes and real sway OF
French fashions commenced with the quenchless
thirst for admiration Of Anne OF Austria, and from her
horror at growing old sprang the loss of the artistic in
fashion, and the bows, buckles, Lace, frs collars and
cravats OF Louis XIV These faithfully copy down
10 the rocco styles Of Louis XIV, in the powder, the
faint shadowing beneath the eye, in all excepting the
patches and snuff boxes. We have no court, no court
lady 10 cover phnple with black patch therefore this
we may escape but when shepherdesses, faithful
Of the Vatican Trouvan pictures adorn street
and omnbusses aud click with French heels the granite
OF Broadway perhaps give orders at the family grocery
and butcher shops they must not hope TO escape carca
ture and ridieule
The imported costumes recently upon exhibition are
marveously beautiful and costly. At gaslight view
one could imagine oneselfn fairy land, where sewing.
machines and earthly fingers unknown. Robes OF
the daintjest eolors, with magnificent sweep Of train.
adorn the ay figures in continuous array Of blended
ranbowsoened tintiDg toned down by falls Of richest
meiowhued point lace, ghmmer Of pearl embroidery,
and fringes. and frightened by the purple bloom OF
golets aud blush What more artistic tlan the
heavy folds OF palest eshcoor with clouds OF eDe se
paltIngs and embroidery Of seed pearls tiDon silk
nj the most delicate shade was covered at the bottom,
and peepng from the d0unces. with transparent grippe
isse in paitiugs above each band, embroidered IN
tiny cut white buges, in imitation OF pearls. black
lace dress embroidered with straw ut the edges OF
bows and loops frnges OF oat bells Thesashes ana
boy used with this dress of strange conrast-in
mink and crimson satin ribbon. most exquisite robe
was n a male sea foam green The bands heading the
r,fles and noulces we're beautifully embroidered in
ossy silk OF deeper shade each Leaf each tendrl and
little blossom outlined with tiny black seedbeads.
Fluffy tasses OF silk and fine jet depended from each
sash end and att OF the edges flushed with ertpe
Iisse 1ullings Swiss muslin paintings on silk are en-
tirey abandoned for the eoudlike crepe fsse. All OF
these evening dresses made with fun ana deIni
train rerers faced with some lovely pale contrasting
silk broad sashes and loops and oyersrts, either real
or simulated Finest Illusion is embroidered with tiny
let and fine pearl buges in limitation OF pearls afterward
attached TO the dress. The pretty basduos mostly
pointed in front with position back have the Medici
faisc ATTACHED wde fullplalted standing irlli OF
the material OF dress, wider behind than In mont
around the neck and inside OF this Is attached the
fine lace rufne Of Manes Vaenciennes. This
fase is excessively becoming 10 long. slender necks
Most necks may attempt them, but with extreme caution
that they give one not much the appearance Of being
choked Under any circumstances they are great SOFT
eners Of the complexion and lend finish 70 tue BACK OF