The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1873-08-04
GENrLEMEN,s FASHIONS.
What Is the Correct Thing and
What % Not.


From q fashion letter by Jennie June)
Eli Perkins, in note TO me this NOM
ing, says: "Gentlemen's fashions In
America, as they have long been IN Eu'
rope, have become conventional and liked.
They no longer change with the whims
Of tSilors, but well.bred gentlemen, with
complete wardrobes, have certain suits Of
clothes for certain occasions, and keep
the same or similar suits year after
year. The tAilors used 10 dictate low
necked shirtS, and then all the coats
and collars would have 10 be cut down in
the neck. Then they would institute
high necked shirts, and collars would go
up again. Now, q gentleman, with q long
OF short neck, proCures coat and shirt
collar to correspond In height. A long
necked person should wear the high Eng
lish standing collar, while short necked
person should wear the low Byron collars.
The suits which an American, French,
English or German gentleman should
have are as follows: o..
Morning Business Suits.-EnglIsh Ok
ford hats, medium height; Cutawsy coats;
black, blue, or gray waiStcoats to match,
single or double breasted; psntaloons a
shade lighter. II iperson Is stout he
should wear . single breasted coat and
waistcoat; If tall, should wear double. Il
plaids or grays are worn, let the suit be
complete Of one material. The scarf or tie
should be Of warm cOlor-some sweet
symphony. Wear strong easy shoes.
Afternoon Street CoStuMeJ.-High dress
hat; standing collar; blue, maroon or parti.
colored scarf; Prince Albert irock. coat,
always buttoned up; drab pantaloOns, and
gloves several shades lighter than the
coat; high.laced or butt0ned shoes.
|. Afternoon Reception Nth Ladies IN Bon.
netS.-Wear black crush hat, which can
be carried under the arm; white standing
collar; light pearly, amber or lilac scarf,
with gloves to match; Prince Albert frock
coat, black, and always kept bultoned;
light drab pantaloons; csliskin boots.
Full DreIs Buening 1oiletb.-Hat len in
tho dressing. room; standing collar; pure
white tie; Immaculate open shirt front;
plain studs or diamonds; swalloW.tailed
coat; single breasted black waistcoat;
black troWsers; cslfskin boots.
Racing Suit.-0an be Of fancy plsids,
with striped shirts and collars, fancy hat
bands, patent leather shoes, &c.
Gentlemen'I Jetcelry.-A gentleman will
wear no jswelry which is not necessitated
by utility. BE may wear collar buttons,
studs, cuff buttons, watch chain, and q
seal ring, with which he seals his letters
In no case diamond or pearl rings for mere
alAaNla1n| p
Thus an American gentleman, 10 be al.
ways well dressed, needs only three suits
OF clothes, all OF which are toned to the
three coatsmentio ned-. the cutaWay morn.
ing coat, the Prince Albert Walking or re.
cepton coat, and tho iull dress evening
coat..f - aINB N - ~
n It will beseen that there Is o strict cor.
respondence between the different parts
of each ofthese styles Of dress, and It is in
their adaptation TO each other that the
gentleman Is seen through them all.
Bring a countryman 70 Saratoga in the
season, and he will be very likely to make
some such mistake as the following:
Meeting q gentleman in morning dress,
he observes the SLOUGH hat and says:
"Come now, that ID sensible, like that;
I'll get one Of those hats" and forthwith
mounts one. Later he notices Prince
Albert frock coat, and concludes that Is
the style for him too. He goes to the
races, takes q fancy TO the fancy" striped
shirts, red neck ties, patent leather Boots
and checked trousers there displayed, and
gets himself up accordingly.
Next day, looking at himself in his
strip OF looking. glsss-slOuched hat,
frock coat, checked pantaloons, striped
shirt, neck tie and patent leathers-he
throws down his hat IN disgust and says,
rQh, hang IT. why can't look like other
ioIks?" ~ '''
These are the mistakes that both men
and women are conEtantly making. We
might have worn all Of these things lex.
cept patent feathers; no gentleman wears
patent leatherS) at the proper time and
with the proper occasions. But II gen.
tleman wears a check or an infnitessimal
stripe, he wears q suit Of It, and only then
for morning or business dress, or upon a
race course. He does not venture to pat
tern trowserS and black, except at q risk
of his reputation.