New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-03-29
THE FASHIONS.
SPRING OPENING Days.

RAILS, FLOWERS, AND ORNAhESlAiioN -"
PORTED COSTUMES IN SILKS AND BAT1sTE-LLNEN
GOoDs-BRIDAL COSTUMES.
IL is amazing how much more sedulously we
note transitions In national costumes than the moral
influences from which they are dednced Changes IN
fashion carefully recorded in our books changes
in morals or forms rarely We dilate upon
grand danes hair powder and stomaehers upon pig
tails and perwgs and laugh at the primitive DAYS oil
the fourteenth century suggestive OF health ana ohg
life Yet, while the fashions Of that period are being
revived 10 a certain degree, the moral and em-
perate habits strictly ignore. SO gradually
indeed, are we gliding back IN fashions
10 medieval days, that before many years
the fairest American bellies viii he arrayed
In stest farthngaes beqHeathed TO posterlty ny
the pencil OF Yelasquez. Private letters from Pans
yield the appalling Information that skirts are being
made scanty that can scarcely step ID them
waists apologies for waists and cr1noine as Wen ~
the have entirely disappeared To tins con
summation have we not yet arrived, but time will
surely approach Paris rules the world despite the
efforts OF American mOdstes and American ladies To
invent fashions The exquisite taste Of cultured thor
oush-bred American women Is beyond crlucisn' yet
they cannot produce they cannot arrive ut the nim-
liable magic ideas of VTO, however minute Their
directions certain charming American IN Paris was
in love with bonnet chaste, so dvinethat 10 see
was to possess die.
-Four hundred francs! What price for that simple
thing which you could make in half IN hour
"Ah, but madame win remember it cost mo three
nights sleep 70 imagine IT,"
The opening day Of the season came of usual last
week tempest rain and wind and so the backward
ness Of the creates succession OF openings
which Will be continued up 10 April. The new bon
nets are the oldest quaintest things Imaginable one
can scarcely yet realize that they will be becoming
There clouds OF vapOrOus Mallnes lace IN blue ana
pink long steamers OF ribbon, and quantities OF MOVERS
These are the ornaments round hats 70 speak and
bounes the only difference existing IN the absence OF
presence Of strings The shapes are the reappearance
Of the Rabagas modified the Medici, the Gypsy anu
many Others all partaking Of the Rabagas there are
too charming eccentric Rbens hats, with great broad
rms and the arstocratic Castlian hat, ike the Peak
OF Tenere with little table land on the top az
conical coquetish, and as pquant as pyramida as
beautiful bizarre and dear, as II IL cheap Ihs Cas-
titan il trimmed near the summit with long pumes OF
cocks-feahers, and turned up az the side IL most IN
compromisinely brgandIsh way.
one Of vrots most exquisite hats is in Malines lace
the rolled back broad brm is lined with Orsade OF pale
pink ribbon he bonnet is blue the flowers massed at
the back OF Margueres forget MOSES IN which
nestle rosy buds and cloud OF Malines blue lace de-
scending NJ the back Very rustic and Vatican
shepherdesslke is ecru or unbeaehed chip inside
the broad upturned br Is wreath OF pale blush roses,
The Medc has abundance Of brm, in rather square
roof over the brow each side turned up against the
crown; behind the brin is finished of in point This
mixture OF hat and bonnet is hybrid but by such Won
derfully pretty hybrds cannot but Do fascinated
There are other bOunets IN all OF these shapes Of six III
two shades Of color in an artistic contrast Ot
materials straw is more fashionable than anything else.
or this large family the pure white dressed chip
the unbeacned or srlt chip, and fine split English and
Belgian straw, black straw, black chip exquis-
itev fine and lighter than Lace and straws
colored in the gray-gTeen olive, and all shades
or shadows OF shades in saSe-green, tea-green,
delicate browns and graYs There are also black lace
AlsaUdn bOnnets, trimmed in strongest contrast, with
clusters Of flowers IN the HHon tint greenyelow,
exceedingly becoming to brunette. one lovely bonnet
was formed entirely Of Light blue polka dotted Malines
ACE inside the Urim entire wreath Of tearoses,
pasng over the back with Tiny fOrgemeuots and gray
green messy foliage stately Leghorn Rahagas, with
the most fantastic Drim maglnable was trimmed with
scarlet pOppies wd-hoyers birds gorgeous wing ana
bandeau Of brown gros gram with frll o. e lace and
ChantiIly scarf fell the back 70 correspond Bon
nets are placed quite far back on the head fully expos
ng the forehead front har thai they do not fall on
is a profound ystery the unintlated Little capes
are a feature this season. but are nearly invisible
Lace used in great profusion and past fashion is re-
vived in lace strings which fastened below the chin
with a little bouquet, perhaps vevety pansy, a
All bonnets Of whatever shape must be narrow at the
sides the ornameutaon either back front. II is I'M
possible 10 imagine anything the perfection Of
art than the flowers. one InvOluntarty bends over
the great boxes IN some magazine OF tasHon'
TO nhale the perfumed breaths exhaling from these
counterfeit preseutm ents OF Natures sweetest
children. Nor are we condemned altogether 70 the
more stately aristOcratic OF the beautiful flowers
but such as were cultivated the oden times, in quaint
old fashioned odorou gardens for healing purposes as
wei "a pleasure in sweet pea and pinks and old man
and blue bells vOets, hyacinths, and heDotrope, and
rosemary. with starry daisies aud forget-me-nots
coIden-eyed pansies, snowy orchid and pale blue
rpvosotis punches woody cedar and cool little es OF
the valley feathery runds aud graceful ferns nearly
exhalnc the atmosphere OF the WOODY des and iresh
blown roses washed by dew.
one would think that the lovely flowers were sum
cent adornment 10 content the spirit Not so Fashion
for she takes ms back medieval days, and introduces
for b0nnets ornaments in Oxldzed silver, IN nnest
chasing and elaborate fretwurk Of shields poignards
buckles odd birds with spread wings clasps helmets
and anchors and quaint medalOns connected by silver
chains one 10 the other ferns in the finest agree
thss for slides and sreaves and other designs copied
accurately from the spears batleaxes and ornaments
usd by the knights Of the fourteenth century at their
tournaments As wear the ornaments OF those days
ON our bonHets we may also 70 the short swords
ike dacser worn by the ladies Of that are, hanging
across the breast IL seems 10 US thAt sell pfoVecon 10
quite as necessary these days az then.
Ofless warlike air beautiful ornament for bonnets
in yiene argent representing comb Of the old grand
dame fashion, very high back aud exquisitely chased
and flagree; and there similar ornaments In Jet
both for the haIr bOnnets Jets are largely inter
woven IN half wreaths, cOronets com-baeks, sprays,
birds wings and every imaginable fantastic shape and
these with the MOusseiDe ribbon introduced IN the
Autumn TOR the tme the principle features for
sell s
become Immensely popular, because from its sofness IL
does not crease or sp does the heavier gros grain
the edges are satin and both sides alike. One is hed
with bewilderment among the imported costumes and
the silks IN narveously beautiful shades lying heaped
In richest cOnfusiOn-the pale amber, the ghosts