Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1873-03-20
NO. 6e.
LADIES' STILES.


are odd, picturesque, becoming, but Of
decldedly incongruous shape, with large,
square, sensible crowns, accompanied by
most fantastic brims. turned up on one
side or the other. no matter which, behind
or before. just as caprice dictates, and
never twice alike. The queer brim is
feature, and in its variety offers something
10 SUIT all faces. The bonnet is placed
very tar back, mounting the crown Of the
hlgii coitinre and leaving all the front Of
the head bare. These new shapes are the
outgrowth of the eccentric Rabagas bon
net Worn through the winter.
straw bonnets will be more worn than
all others. The choice among these is the
hne split Belgian straw, worth $3.50 un-
trimmed, the soft snowy white dressed
chips, made of sewed braid, and the ecru.
or undressed chip, which costs from $3
upward. A new bonnet, called the Val.
erie, Is made of silk floss, buff or laven.
der, woven to resemble straw. This 10
80 untrimmed. There are also quantities
OF black chip and soft black straw bonnets
sent out from the best French houses.
These are very light and fine, and when
trimmed with fine flowers and lace will
be considered more distinguished than
the black lace bonnets that have been
worn so long. u b4a
By way of trimming there is less lace
than usual, and ribbon is little used except
Tor the very long strings, which are three
inches wide, and tied under the chin. The
principal garniture is soft rept silk, called
gros d'Orleans, cut bias. and arranged in
single careless-looking folds, with bows
made of many ends or loops, but with
fewer futings, quillings and streaming
draperies than we have lately had. Com.
pactness seems to be the idea in decora-
tions, even in the fine flowers which win
be used in proiusion that is positively
extravagant; for these are no longer
clambering vines and long trailing sprays.
but thick wreaths and meIanges, bououets
OF various flowers grouped in contrasting
hues.
Two, three. and even four shades ap-
pear on one bonnet: two shades are or
one color, and the others in contrast.
Thus there are folds of two tints OF blue.
gray, with folds of the new limon color
the pale greenish-yellow of limes-and q
wreath OF pink roses; or else two light
olive shades are associated with deepest
blue silk and very pale tea-roses; another
NOhAoAh0tiOh Ao SlluSOu IOSCS, lIXub Anu
dark reseda reps, with white folds. An
elaborate face trimming is seen on all
bonnets. This consists of thick wreath
OF flowers Or torsade of ribbons. placed
directly above the forehead and under the
upturned revers or high coronet, or, If you
like, all around beneath the whole brim of
the bonnet. The pretty ruches of laces
and tulle that crowned the forehead so be-
comingly have disappeared from French
bOnnetS.
wREArns AND BOUQUETS.
The new wreaths and bouquets revive
the flowers of old-fashioned gardens
sweet pea blossoms, hyaeinths, dwarf
roses, garden pinks, mignonette, geraui-
ums, violets, bluebells, for-get-me-nots,
heliotropes and lilies Of the valley In
abundance; mixed with these are dried
grasses, herbs, moss, pine cones, and berA
ries. The foliage is bronzed leaves, or
else very dark autumn hues, with striped
grasses. Quantities of wild roses are i'm
ported, white, red and yellow eglantine in
a single cluster, and there are many half
decayed faded roses that seem ready to
fall to pieces; roses, pansies and white
lily bells form pretty bouquet. Full
coronet wreaths are of blue myosotis, with
moss, herbs and dried grasses; for bru.
nettes are poppy wreaths. with straw
leaves veined with jet.
NEW FABRICS.
In addition to the fabrics before men,
toned during the last week, there have
been exceedingly heavy importations Of
siciliennes, pongees, challies. French and
Irish poplins, and a medium quality of
silks. in all the late and many new and
beautiful shades of color. Siciliennes, ac-
cording to Leslie's Lady's Journal, is =
material which, in general appearance.
very strikingly resembles Irish poplin,
but being of soft woollen woof. under the
finest silk warp, is lighter. more flexible,
and drapes more gracefully.
The latest style of Sicilienne is in satin
stripes of self color, and this will be popu-
lar for over dresses. The silks alluded to
are OF lighter quality than the gros grain;
they come in all the soft colors and shades
now given to silks and other dress fabrics
are from twenty to twenty-four inches in
width, and sell at from 81 to $3.50 per
yard. New silks of the finest quality will
very soon be opened to inspection. For
the pardessus, for the toilet above the
medium grade. crepe de chine will contin-
ne In faVOr; ana lndeeu almost any SOFT,
clinging material. which yields readily to
folding and looping. is, by the most fash
ionable. preferred to silk-the complete
costume of the latter, however, being gen.
orally dictated by economy and ccnyen-
ience.
A dress very lately from Paris had .
skirt of shade which approached Nor
vege, or Norway gray, with polonaise
of very light grayish green satin striped
Sicilienne. The DIRE IS was tor the prone.
made and very slightly en- train. The
skirt was trimmed with narrow bias fioun-
ces of the Sicilienne, the founces being
finished. The uppermost founce had fof
heading putting, and at the sides hand
some bows, with ends OF the Siciiienue
cut bias and finished with a fold and pip
ing. The polonaise was trimmed up the
front with wide bias folds alternately oI
the Sicilienne and the silk. with fancy silk
buttons more than an inch in diamete,
fastening it~up; at the back there was
but one complete width, and the general
effect given more that OF one end OF an
immensely wide side sash than o skirt.
The looping was novel and extremely