The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1873-10-08
TERMS $500 PER ANNUMIN ADVANCE
The newest style is the bl.o,

The newest style is the black embroidered
velvet spencer with long open basoues and
dawning "gigot' when not a nntfsJ sdan,a anu "
The rtumn underskirt is plain velyeteen
or the material called ''pekin," which IS an
alternate velvet and satin-cloth stripe.
There is fine rep, besides, with velvet
stripe in which flashes a satin streak. Among
the latter we have seen caret in two shades
with a lavender streak. Neither was cut of
taste, and both are quite new. There is a
new Partisan blue, with sulphur sable over
it. We should call this speckled cloth.
A favorite color in this season always has
been useful pepper and salt" 1t is now be-
ing trimmed with silver gray diagonal in silk
serge, bordered with pale blue. The effect Is
very charming. All wooden materials are
corded and lined with bands of silk. These
facings underneath are great set off with
re;rousses; they add richness to toilette
which no trimming can convey. Ladies are
advised to AVOID inflated ret. ousses; an ele-
giant drape IS the achievement under consider
alton. Many tuniques are only two wide and
long coat tails, one of which hangs and the
other is punched in hugh Rubcns buckle of
pearl, silver or steel. The Burnous scarf is q
becoming novelty, as it supplies the service of
a mantle and unique. 1t is made of black
cashmere. 1t is only very long piece of the
materialin its natural width. 1t is stitched
all round, and trimmed with deep black Sc
villa fringe that Is, strands having q lattice
worked heading. The hood behind is made
q Arabe, and the two front erds are crossed
on the waist in front; they then hang down
the sides, and are Joined behind by means Ct
cord and tasselS. This fashion is a welcome
change after the loug period of pelerines we
have endured.
Hats have made alarming progress. The
only two shapes now cared for is the Madame
Angot AID the steeple crown. The Mar
quise is pretty, but Madame Angot rules the
day. 1t is a trim little poke" In front, and
high crown with an up-turned rim behind.
No one pretends to call it pretty when held
in the hand, but when placed on the high edi-
lces OF hair now in favor 1t has a captivating
effect How it keeps on without falling for
| ward is a mystery, but there are plenty of
roses and bows to make the balance even be-
| hind. The steepe crown is supposed 20 be a
| political hat. but all the white Grape round it
only makes this an illusion. Elderly ladies
| should not trust to Madame Angots or TO
steepes shapes; but keep to black lace ''ter-
reurs'' and diadems of foliage or jet. Very
beautiful aigrettes and diadems are made of
small jet heads; the coral spray, the wheat
ear, ard the lily of the valley designs are the
/ most elaborate. The flowers for hats in this
yeason are roses, elderberries in moss green,
| and the new double fuchsias. Full dress
| toilettes are faie and velvet mixed.
Ffonnces, frllls and plsses, quiles and CO.
| quilles, ruches and puffs are all used tor
skirts; bui this will subside, for present an
4 archy is ouly provisional.
| There is no chaucs in lingerie since spot
ted collars and cuffs have competed with
| streaks; buttons are much larger. If ruffs
for the neck can grow higher they will. The
| prettiest are beaded with black bugles on
| white net and white bugles on black net,
both ruched together and worn with fchu
of white crepe de chine. slack en- tous cas-
are ined inside with violet, and the black
handles ale preferred to any other.
Apoponax and "Jane Shors" continue to
be the fashionable extracts for the mouchoir.