Helena weekly herald. [volume] (Helena, Mont.) 1867-1900, 1873-03-20

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Porium Of the n. p. R. R.-Astoria and
ITS Historical Ass0ciatlons-On thu
Bosom of the Paciflc-Coast Panor.
anna from the Quarter Deck-Whalca
Desporting i'm the sunshtnc-A Delight
ful Trip. ".
t' SAN FRANCISCO, March 6, 1878.
To the Editor of the Herald
We dreaded the trip by sea to San Fran.
cisco. Had we been on the Atlantic, or either
on the great lakes-though much more sub
ject to storms, yet familiar, from long sojourn
near them-it would have seemed an every
day affair; but the mighty Pacific, so re-
Gently explored; so strange to all our early
memories, the thought of a trip of six hun
dred miles along its rugged coast was almost
appalling. Intimating to friend the posi-
bility of shipwreck, 'Humbug, he exclaimed,
'syou have first-class steamer and the tamest
old ocean you ever saw. 1t is mere pleasure
trip" And 50 it proved. We were fortunate
in obtaining deck state room on the John
L. Stephens, as we'll for the fresh air as for
the fine outlook it afforded during the voyage
From six until ten on the morning of our
departure, we were detained in the Will.
liamette by heavy fog. Twenty miles down
the Columbia, we passed the new city of
Kalama, designed by its builders, the North
ern Pacific Railroad Company, as rival to
Portland. Thus far the scheme has been a
failure, and though some sixty miles of
track have been laid in the direction Of Olym-
pia, commencing at Kalama, that embryo
emporium is little more than a collection of
cheap whisky saloons What it may become
hereafter, time alone can tell, but it has won
ders to achieve before the competition it af-
fects can become reality. There is little to
interest the traveller in the appearance of the
Columbia until we arrive at Astoria, twelve
miles from its mouth-and even Astoria, but
for its early associations, would be a very
ordinary little seaport town. But we recall,
as we approach it, that it was here the most
thrilling events recorded by Mr.. Irving in one
of his most thrilling volumes occurred, a
little more than half a century ago. Nothing
but heap of stones, once the chimneys Of
the traders quarters in Fort Astoria, remain
to mark the spot memorable in the annals of
our early fur. trade. A little village supported
by, and giving support to, about five hundred
fishermen, oystermen and pilots, composes
the famous settlement of Astoria. Opposite,
at distance of seven miles, is the settlement
of the Chinosks, and just below is Fort Ad- |
ans, where Lewis and Clark spent the
perilous winter Of 1865. The ground, but |
for its historical interest, would be but part |
of the monotonous pine forest which covers all |
this portion of Oregon. We look out through |
the jaws of the estuary upon the waters of |
the Pacific, to have our fears intensified by |
the long row of white breakers directly across
its mouth This is the frightful bar which,
ever since the discovery of the river by Capt
Gray in II, has been the great bugbear Of
navigation. With all its foam and fury, it is
as harmless as the quiet old ocean beyond it.
The channel, though tortuous, is half mile
in width, and twenty-four feet in depth, at
low tide, affording safe egress and regress
for vessels of the largest size. Our steamer,
which rates 1900 tons, glides through it with
little more apparent motion than is produced
by the sea On either side. And yet this in
creased motion is not without its effect, for
on each side of US our fellow passengers, in
cluding our comrade the hero of many
are paying that sort of tribute
10 the old sea god which he is apt to exact
from all his new acquaintances. % ="
Our course is directly down the coast, and
Tor most of the distance in sight of it. For
lree hundred miles, at least, it is continu-
JUS pine forest. The shore is very abrupt, |
Using almost from the waters edge into
There are no good harbors be-
ween the Columbia and San Francisco, and
:ew that are accessible to small vessels. Our
teamer could approach none of them. AS I
We proceed south, the weather moderates,
md the ocean calns. Fortwo days we sailed
,ver q surface scarcely ruffied in the
nildest of atmospheres. It was very delight
ul, and we fully realized the impulses which
originated the name of Pacific for this grand
st Of seas. Large shoals OF whales, disport- !,
ng in che sunshine, and spouting huge masses
f water, were often in sight, and from Ore
,on to California large flocks of gulls, and an :
occasional albatross, followed in the track ,
# our. vessel. Capes Blanco and Mendocino
eemed to have no disquieung effect upon
he ocean, and we sailed 50 near them that
We could see their smallest surroundings y ~
vas the evening Of the third day when our 9
ood steamer entered the Golden Gases and
allied around the city d TO- Folsom ostreee !
vharf, bringing to close one Of the most De- 9
lghtful tips It has ever beer our good Tor .