The weekly clarion. [volume] (Jackson, Miss.) 1863-1882, 1873-08-07

COSTUMES.

favor at the summer resorts. We have al
ready spoken of the various ways in whic
velvet forms part of the promenade cos
tune, and we now add that dark silks ar
silks are not necessarily heavy, but il /
true that sOmbre shades of plum-eoloT
blue gray, reseda. leaf-brown, grisaille anS
J blue-black have entirely Superseded tn
medium light-blue. gray, pearl and greer
silks Formerly worn at midsummer. Cos
TUNES of plum or smoke. colored silks. 81
dark that they are scarcely distinguished,
from black, are made with two simple gath.
cred aouuces on the skirt, and tight,
fitting polonaise with plain edge or fringed
at-sieeves and high ruff. With such
dress there should be sash of the same. oil
else unique belt of some kind, either oil
Russia leather with silver Joints, clasps
and ehateliRe, or a velvet belt fastened be-
hind by pearl or antique silver buckle, OF
else canvass belt with binding of blue or
red Russia Ii all black is preferred, glossy
taffeta silk is selected, or else summer gros
woven in small reps, with high lustre. This
IS also made simply with tight polonaise
and deep kilt-Dleating on the skirt, or else
Jockey basque and shawl shaped upper
skirt plainly piped. or perhaps edged with
jet fringe. The Kilt pleating in the skirt is
nearly yard deep aud is held In clusters-
three pleats in each group, and space be-
tween.
There is fancy also for black and white
checked silks this summer. A French
SHo@u among rate lpOrJALlOlls Is
that OF using checks of three or four sizes
from pin-heads to half-inch bloeks-in sin
gle dress. Simple and tasteful afternoon
suits are made of pin-head checks alone ::
the skirt has two clusters Of three narrow
tapping gathered f1OunceS, piped with black
and each cluster headed by a puff: the
apron overskirt is edged by puff and rufe.
aud the basque is a Jockey piped with black
and finished with run and cuffs.
BREAKFAST DRESSES.
White suits are not universally worn. as
| they formerly were, but are still preferred
| TO all others for summer breakfast dresses
| Fine, soft, yellow white French nainsook Is
now chosen for these instead of the heavy
| piqHes and stiff blue-white Victoria lawns
| of last year. The design il invariably a
belted polonaise and skirt For trimming.
the front breadth Is formed of lengthwi.e
clusters OF narrow tucks, with a row OF
Hamburg or needle-work inserted between
each cluster; two gathered hounces, with a
row of tucks and insertion above a hem,
surround the skirt; the coat sleeves are
made of tucks and banes of insertion.
Cross barred nainsook is used for palmer
suits. Two kilt-pleated hOunces of plain
nainsook trim the skirt, and narrow kilt
pleating edges the polonaise.
DINNER DRESSES.
Light silks and Chambery gauzes neatly
trimmed with lace are reserved for dinner
dresses. A mastic gray silk half covered
with Nalenciennes insertion and lace has
just been sent TO Newport, The skirt has
gathered scant flounces each three-sx-
teenths of yard deep, and the middle
founce is entirely covered by fiounce 'of
Nalenciennes; tue shawl oVerskirt with
pointed apron front shaped by a seam down
the middle, on which bows are placed, has |
many rows of Valenciennes insertion |
placed lengthwise on each bredth, and |
lace flounce on the edge to show its grace |
iul outline, but 1t is also striped downward |
with insertion, and similar trimming ex- |
tends the whole length of the coat-sleyes |
Very narrow lace edging is placed each |
side OF the insertion band two deep frIlls |
of lace. with an inner pIeatiDg of crepe |
liSSe, surround the neck and wrists.
Light airy pnffs and RULES of grenadine !
or gauze should not be gathered on cords, |
as this gives a clumsy look. For these very |
trimmings French modistes use effectuallV !
sort OF gauging made by putting two 1
rows of gathers quite close together. For |
instance, the bias puff with narrow ruffle on |
each side, SO much used for trimming gren-
adlne polOnaises, should be cut six inches |
wide; the edge need not be hemrned, but |
merely turned down the width of the tiny |
rnffie, thus making it double, and gathered |
by two rows OF small stitches set scarcely a
pretty puff between.
DARK BLUE LINEN.
Dark blue grows in favor, and can now
be purchased for fifty cents yard. These
blue suits are more styIish when made
without any white except the large pearl
buttons that are placed down the front of |
the polonaise. The skirt has kilt-pleated
hounce about three fourths of yard deep
and the long belted polonaise has merely a
hem. with revers. collar. cuffs and pocket.
"A morocco belt and bag usually take the
place of a sash with linen suits.
WIDOWS DRESS AND CAP.
Il |
the first glance to be made entirely Of Eng
lish Grape, but upon inspection prove to be
BON baZine covered with Grape. Their de-
sign is a basque and single skirt, without
ruff1es or folds. A bOmbazinG skirt OF or
binary shape is first made; above this
there is sewed around the hips a Grape skirt
made of widths cut precisely like those of
the bombazine, finger-deep hem around
the edge, and hanging separately from the
bombaZine, though naturally falling into
the same folds. The basque Is long enoughI
to conceal that part of the bombaZine not
covered with Grape. This basque is of
heavy English Grape, placed smoothly on a
thick silk lining. Ii is of simple shape.
with coat sleeve, piping of Grape around
the bottom, and reverse of doubled Grape
extending down the front. Around the neck
and wrists is a side pleatnG of black crepe
llsse, with an inner pleating of white lisse.
Small button moulds covered with Grape
tasten the basque.
White crepe lisse and more deeply
crinkled Grape are used for the caps which
form part of a widows dress in the house.
Widows caps imported from London are
preferred here, as indeed, arc all English
mourning goods and customs, instead of
the tanciful French mourning. These lisse
caps are bands pointed toward the fore
head edged with a small crimped puff.
passed back under the coil of hair, and
finished with wide hanging ends behind.
Simpler caps for morning are Maria Stuart !
squares of carleton or of softest lawn, with
folded hem placed on the top of the head
and secured by black ribbon strings, or else
by a narrow tillet ribbon passed round the
head over the middle of the cap Old
ladies wear the large crowned Martha
Washington cap, trimmed with milliners
folds and tiny pleated ruffles.