, 1873-08-24
Severe Classicism Still Doforrefl-.-
Positive Alteration In House,
DreSSCGs.
Continued Rage for ConjoIned Hues...
The Difficulty Of Arranging
Them.


NEW YonK, Aug. a, 1873.
Tho stormy weather Of tho past eight or ton
days has boon bad for watoring-places, COM
polling their denizonB to romain indoors, aud
naturally turning their thoughts homoward.
last woek 1t WIS expected that tho Manhattan.
oso would wandor later this yonr than is their
wont; consequently, merchants Of all kinds
wero kedping back their goods, not intending to
haye tho semi-annnal openings as carly M
formerly by q wook or ton days. But, II tho
present damp, coolish atmosphere prevails, the
majority Of summor-sojouruers will return by
tho middle Of next mouth and with tho pooplo
wtll como tho
MODES,
which only agrco In diBagrceing. In tho first
placo, aBsurod rs VIC have boon by the highest
authorities, for the laht. hnlf-yoar, that scant
skirts, sans trimming, sans puff, Sans drapery,
everything which wo hayo particularly cherished,
would DO the colo and only wear for tho coming
autumn, 1t iH naturally trine discouraging to
find that after all, there is to bo no violent
change. Violont changes hayo been discovered
to be highly Objectionable and inartistio by tho
presiding dstleB Of fashion and frippery thore-
foro though change thoro will bo, and positive
tendency toward plainneas md simplicity, got tho
final skimpincss will not bo attained for Hpyoral
seaBona to como.
Absolutely unornamontal skirts, below soyero-
II blank, undraped Polonaises, are to DO. psr-
hnpB, the most recherche combination but ruff
les, pulls, plaitings etc.. In limited quantities,
will abide for tho autumn at lcast. Tho fact iB
moroly this: va cannot yet do without them.
However much our pining souls may Sigh for
classical lanldnoss, still must We havo some re-
gard to cur nocessitioa. It is we'll enough
moro than we'll enough, since it requires go
| much loss quantity OF Btuff-to make our now
clothes on the purost Grocian model but. when
! our old GOWNS aro to DO converted into some-
thing new and straugo, whnt, in EQllys name,
eosl,ng e4s s' ra,o' NJ tS ''hs hole-h|S%g band
Drcsses TINT have once been trimmed can never
be made over successfully, without being Ie.
will look fresher whore it was covered than
where it VAS not, and tho piecing that is almost
always m accompaniment Of tho process, will
| stare ono out Of countenanco. unless prevented
foro, moderate degrco Of furbelowing must, it
| would ecem, bo loft uH for time.
The single unequiyocal alteration will be in
| MousE-pnEasEs
| {thoso di6tinctively 30 KNOWN mean) such
| Is arc not intended to bo worn at ali In the
street, For these, over-skirtR aud polonaisaB
arc roally prohibited by mantua- -1nakors. Even
ponfa aro to be prescribed it ia rumorod; and
there will not DO 80 much as ~
such adornments, will do persistent
bodily from tho street aud condnod to tho house,
] as thoy should be. Tho discarded upper drosBna
will be outlined by trimming on those undrapcd
skirts. which is supposed to case the abruptness
OF their removal.
A pretty gown OF this kind, just being finished
Hky-bluo twilloa silk. Tho bluo is aa light as il
often ecen in tile heavens, and conaequentl,
blends excellontly with tho gray. Tho deni-tra
ia quito short, not lying moro than throe or fou'
inches on tho ground. Around the bottom Is m
inch and q half widc, With tho ssme space bc
tWoon, turned up on tho right sido three,
| quarters Of an inch, and finished Will
threo dno M alternating 1na .p ppiMnga Gi n, ts
with the blue, to tho depth Of two inches, md
il plated IN iuoh and 4 half from the edge,
every other plat being turned inside out, mud
caught down by button covered with the gray.
Iha rnllle III repeated by two others, there be-
ing difference botwocn them Of Two inches in
width, and auisablo variation in tho plaitB and
| buttons. Tho rufloB arc aet On two incheH
apart. An oyor-dress il simulated by three~
inch-wido banda Of the gray, ppod with the
triple cords, aud laid on to represent very high
draplug OH tho side. 4 Enthusiastically lly-combinod
bow Of tho two co!ors, with graceful ends, ap.
Rarontly snstaina the snppostitious looping On
tho loft side. The basque y of tue grny, cut in
blue yost tho edge Of Which is
| outlined By narrow piped band Of
tho gray, laid on in Bcallops, The coat-aleeyee
arc scailopod and pipol round tho hand three
rows OF scallops from arm-hole to st,-on
top Of tho sleeve, being formed with very mar
row pipod banda, aud tho sharp turns Of the
ecallopB marked BY small blue buttons. Tic in
evitablo fraise ia Of tho blue silk doubled and
stifronod by boing linod with coarBe muslin 4
full crepo-lisao rnoho is worn inside, and also on
| the 8leayoB.
COMBINATION OF co1onB,
Tho rage for two colors, and two or throo
| plados OF the samo color, continues, Almost
everything viii bo thus arranged, But. ipstoad
Of 6ig ypiashes-Bo to speak9of contraating
tint like vide. ALTERNATING 1ounces, aud kindred
deai,rnY. tic uocoud and third shades will bo in
troducod in tho form OF p!pings, Innings,
narrow bindings, and similar Ways
This ia vast improvement, and
has not such 3 bed-quilty air ns tho othor stylo
lind. A mineIiue of colors with black iB ono Of
and sneakine of coIors, reminds mo tlat NO arr,
proaised now and beautiful tints this fall, ex-
proAyiy created for tho American women, to whom
tho1oiratnlv fnded huos nj lnat war proyed aO mn