Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1873-10-16
NO. 246.
FASHIONS.

Mentalets and pelerines are, with the
cool days, returning to the popularity
which they enjoyed in the spring. Those
of black cashmere are the most useful, as
they may be indifferently worn with va
rious costumes. They are ornamented
with embroidery in silk and fine cut jet
beads, and some of talma form are ens
tirely covered with rows of narrow black
silk fringe, lighted up with strands of jet
Other mentalets are assorted to the suit,
and are in various forms, as "the pays
anne" which is particularly graceful, hav-
ing long ends which cross in front and tie
in the back, the "Marie Antoinette,''
which crosses in front but does not pass to
the back, and the "Marquise" or "bonne
femme which falls in straight, square
ends on the front. Another with no par
ticular name is pointed in the back and
has a Dernouse-shaped hood.
The most convenient garment for fall
and winter wear is the still popular redin-
cote. 1t unites the several merits of be-
ing stylish. useful, simple and inexpen-
sive, and it can be made up with but lit
tie trimming in almost any self-colored
material.
The promise of single-skirted dresses is
fulfilled by some modistes, but in man
ner that only ''keeps the word of promise
to the ear, for these single skirts are so
wrapped and enveloped by flounces in the
back, and ruches, plaitings and puffings
on the front, that the foundation is more
completely covered than it ever was by
the long-used and not yet discarded tunic.
which rejects the redundancy of trimming
al nd 10 nf
of the oracles try to force upon us. The
truest taste is sure to strike happy medi-
um, seizing the best points of any prevail
ing fashions, and adapting then to the style
and the means of the wearer, preferring
rich materials, subdued colors, and SIM
plicity of design, to tlimsy stuffs and elab-
crate ornamentations.
Since the visit of the Shah of Paris,
"green" has been the favorite color, and
Teheran and Ispahan green, Nassr-ed-Dn
costumes, and Iran sashes are the latest
names which adorn the magasin windows.
Green; however, has been too long worn
to seem new in spite ofthe Persian names,
but it is very pretty in various camaien
combinations.
There is one real novelty in color which
without the slightest resemblance to the
tint of the bread eaten during the siege, is
called "pain de siege" 1t is a light tint
between gray and ecru, warmed up by
slight touch of pink, indeed it is the hue of
granite, clothed with the tender golden
pink of an August sunset The charm of
this shade, is that it can be worn on all
occasions and that it never conflicts with
any pronounced color, however intense.
Green, blue, violet, and even red, with all
form pleasing contrast with this Won
derful "pain de siege
A new material is maroon-colOred Pc
kin, consisting of alternate stripes of plain
silk and velvet This is made up as
polonaise, to be worn over skirt of solid
maroon velvet, or is used as skirt to be
worn under Il redingote Of plain maroon
silk.
The most elegant autumn costumes are
in faille, and velvet of the same color, the
latter being the darker shade. extremes of
either shade being avoided. Dark green,
plum and chocolate brown are the favorte
colors for this purpose. A redingote cut
with long pointed tabs and revers, is
mounted with velvet and worn over a
faille skirt, which is also partly trimmed
with velvet. The hat, with its soft crown
Of silk and turned-up brim, faced with vel
vet, has two ostrich feathers of the two
shades curling over the top and held in
place by rose.
Brocadc silks are imported in great va
riety, and will be very fashionable this
winter, but a brocade or patterned silk of
any kind is never wise selection for any
one who seldom purchases Il dress silk.
A brocade costs nearly twice as much as
a plain falle, and is not so useful for va
rious occasions, and is very difficult TO use
fa- Oh Of; En
passed. Some of the new brocades are,
however, magnificent in design and color
ing. Some are brocaded in stripes on II
plain taille ground between stripes OF satin
or velvet. The patterns vary from the
most delicate floral designs to the boldest
figures of Japanese or Egyptian fancy,
the colors sometimes showing the deep
sober rembrant tints, or again revealing
the pale delicate lines that Vatican loved.
These rich fabrics undoubtedly make very
handsome toilets for those who have
great variety of dresses aud can afford TO
lay them aside when the caprice is over.
"A very handsome dinner toilet is made
of a rich gray faille. The back of the
skirt moderately trained is covered up TO
the top with tlounces four or five inches
deep These flounces are fastened on
each side by band put on lengthwise
and heading narrow ruffle. This band
is embroidered in delicate pattern OF
rosebuds and foliage. The round tablier
is edged with the same embroidered
wreath, heading deep chenille fringe.
The front of the skirt is kilt-plaited. The
bodice opens over a Louis Quinze .glet of
rich blue silk The basques and revers
are embroidered to correspond with the
tabler and skirt. plated ruche OF white
tulle at the throat and wrists, completes
this extremely distingue costume.
At the Vienna Exposition a dress of
black velvet, opening over a petticoat of
yellow satin and trimmed with Point de
bride bouclec d. Alencon, has attracted
great deal Of attention. This wonderful
lace is the exact reproduction of some
worn by Madame de Pompadour. and this
particular design was for "a long time sup
posed to be lost. The pattern had, how
ever, by some chance, been preserved by
an old lace-maker, who has now restored
this choices of laces to the present gener-
alton. One entire piece covers the front
of the yellow petticoat. The black velvet