Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1873-04-17
rnR1nMER skIRr

gathered puffs, or smooth melon puts,
while the back widths are covered with
three full gathered bunchy f1ounces. To
complete the effect, these skirts are tied
back over the new French tournure,
which is long, narrow affair of twelve
steel springs incased in muslin and worn
strapped behind the person. This bus
tie adds nothing to the breadth of the
hips, but is behind only, pushing the
skirt far out backward in a slender curve,
and is long enough to support them half
their length, making them flow outward
gracefully, instead of falling in below a
projecting hump at the waist, as they
have lately done.
THE HIGH STANDING MRDICI
fraise of silk or the dress material trims
the pointed neck of basque or polonaise,
and adds to that stateliness which prom
ises to supersede the jauntiness so long
in fashion. This fraise is bias silk three
inches wide behind, where it is held in
full pleats, and slopes gradually away
toward the throat 1t is seen on all
dresses, from the simplest muslins to
elaborate dinner dresses, of faille. An
inner pleating of white crepe lisse comes
in the neck and wrists of imported
dresses, and is often preferred to lace.
1t is sold, ready pleated, fol- 50 cents a
yard.
WIDE SILK FLOUNCEs
are made straight on many French
dresses, and are simply hemmed below
and gathered on a cord above. They
are often arranged in three side pleats at
intervals with gathers between the clus-
tiers. For edging and heading wide f1oun-
ces are puffs and shell scallops-ruff1es
three inches wide in clusters of side
pleats caught over the plain spaces. The
train flounce may be either bias or
straight Bias gathered founces are
very full, having three-quarters of their
length added their lower edge IS turned
up an inch on the outside, and piped
with one or two tiny folds Irregular
tlounces, one wide and two narrow ones
below, trim the foot of skirts; guam
tity of narrow ruffles around the skirt is
passee.
ALL RUFFLEs IN GROUPS
overlap. 1t is the rule to trim front
breadtlIs different from the back, and in
many cases a third kind of trimming eX-
tends down the side breadths, such as
puffs, folds, bars or reyers. For border
ing upper skirts plain edges or fringes
are preferred to ruffies-thus bias band
of silk finger length broad is laid on
cashmere and other woollen dresses
sometimes band of the dress material
is used, and piped on the upper side with
silk. The fringes are tied into the edge
of the overskirt or garment, and are used
without heading. Many overskirts are
made to lap in front, and others fasten
on the left side; there is also a fancy for
draping each side differently.
SUPERB BLACK SILK COSTUMES
have the three front breadths trimmed
with seven bias bands thickly corded on
the sides, pointed and fringed below, ex-
tending lengthwise from below the
knee, and meeting straight deep flounce
held in three side pleats and gathers On
the back breadths are three deep flounces
with shell scallops at top and bottom.
Over this is a polOnaise made with q
double-breasted basque in front, fasten-
ed by two rows of Uje6 argent buttons
a standing fraise of silk trims the neck
the polonaise skirt laps in front. slopes
away along on the sides, and is caught
up high and short behind The coat
sleeves have four bias bands extending
from the armhole to the cuff, and a
plain, stiffy-lined cuff is turned over the
wrist.
HUNDRED SUMMER CAMEL s-HAIR poll
ONAIsRs
are shown at one house, with scarcely
two alike. Those of ecru summer cam
els hair, with brown velvet revers down
the front, velvet cuffs, epaulets, pockets,
and a straight fiat velvet Vatican down
the back, are $175. insertions of yak
are let in the skirt. A brown velvet
skirt is required to complete the costume.
A novelty from Worth is a dark green
camels-hair polonaise with jacket back.
military passementeries in front, swing
ing cords behind, and sailors scarf of
camel's-hair knotted at the throat, with
ends passed under the belt. With green
silk skirt, the price is 800.
A PERFECT COSTUME
for bride has a skirt of lavender silk.
with alternate black velvet and silk kilt
pleating on the front breadth, and three
silk flounces behind widely faced with
black velvet. The polonaise of lavender
cashmere, embroidered with a deeper
shade, is fringed on the edges, and has
wide sash, collar, and front bows of
black velvet, showing lavender silk lin
ing.
RESEDA CASHMERE SUIT
has silk skirt with wide pleating and
narrow rutfles held down by a cashmere
band an eighth wide. The Worth over
skirt hangs open, long and plain in front
and sides, is caught up high behind by
sash, and has square pockets like pol
onalse; the edge is finished by bias
cashmere band like that on the skirt,
piped with silk.
SUMNER SUITS.
For summer suits thick Napoleon blue
soft finished linen is imported for 81
yard, and twenty-five yards are sold for
a suit. Polonaises of this linen are
wrought all over with white polka dots;
others are machine embroidered with
white, and sold for $35 A very simple
suit of deepest blue with vine of white
brier stitching on polonaise and skirt is
$35. Another novelty is t0tIe bIeu, blue
linen striped with white like bed-ticking
coutille. When stylishly made this is
very effective, and will not become com
mon as plain suits cost $40.
THE NEWEST FANCY
in batiste costumes is to trim them with
strong, heavy Malines (old-fashioned
thread lace. A row OF Mal1nes lnser-
ton is set in the polonaise, and three
rows are in the Spanish fiounce on the
skirt Price 1925 for suit. Among
other washing dresses are lace striped
percales in brown and gray goods, with
white stripes and damask figures.
THE LovELIEsT WHITE CAMBRIA SUITS
have the polonaise wrought all over in
open worked English embroidery, all
eyelet-holes and conpass-work. The
skirt has single deep founce of en-
broiderY. Embroidered fraise about the
neck. Violet water ribbon sash, belt
and knots at the throat and elbow com
plete this perfect costume.
LESS EXPENSIVE DRESSES
are made in elaborate style with tucked
bands and puffs; price $50. These