Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-04-01

CT kilt pleated skirts In fun evening dresses
the underskiTt is entirely plain, the outside
drapings OF lace, talle, or Swiss comprl al the
dressiness Of these toieItes; and there is OF
the bunckiness Oh At has 30 largely prevailed.
0verskirts are pendant, not pulled. What will
the reader say TO one garment of simple velvet
poplin, 20 wear for the next month only, made
with straight sleeve, gored skirt, and a
simple Catharine de Medicis puff at the top OF
perfectly straight coat sleeve? What will the
reader say ii told that these Is the work Of one OF
the first Paris houses? Plain indeed. The fact
is that there il about TO be auattack of smplici-
ty. Laboratories has, they say, had its day in
Paris. On DIT that the kilt pleated skirt-that
consisting of kilt pleats from belt TO hem-has
fashionables. With regard TO this mode, let any
one look at two ladies standing together-fhe
one in kilt-pleated, gored, or plain skirt, n
other with punches Of drapery at the back anu
sides, though that has now gone out complete
ly.-and say which lady, in the contour OF her
figure, most nearly approaches to classic beauty
and symmetry OF outline Bad, scrawny figures.
which are i'm the minority in America, require
bunchiness TO conceal their many defects.
Puffs here, there, and everywhere create the
sfondest Illusions" and make a Venus Of a
bean pole, but, to the noble, I do not mean the
exaggerated, but the correct-outlines of a
properly rounded figure, the gored, plain. or
kilt pleated skirt win give an added grace by
showing them as they are. Exaggerated bustles
are very little worn abroad, and, both i'm Paris
the garment most in favor.
THE REpINGoTR.
The most decidedly stylish garment that
brought into favor, is undeniably the Rediagote
This Is a le-breasted garment, fitting with
gloye-like exactness to the for No, and trimm q
with large buttons, which form double row on
the corsage. reach down to the bottom OF the
front portion, and also decorate the CUTS. So
decided lie the favor which this article Of out
door wear has obtained that il appears I'm vel
vet, silk, cashmere, cloth, poplin and alpaca.
The most elegant OF all are, Of course, the vel
vet, but even the silk are not more stylish than
the fine cloth in all the delicate spring shades
as well as in darker colors. The same idea I'm
linen, muslin, nansook, and Victoria lawn will
IL IL predicted by the potentates i'm the kingdom
OF fashion, reign supreme during the warm sea-
son. Marseilles and pique, with black velvet
b1ttons, collar and cuffs. will il is said appear
in this novel and becoming shape. on the
lighter materials, lace, disposed en- casoddes I'm
medallions, in diamonds, and in plain falls, will
supply the place OF buttons.
THE LILACs.
Lilac, IL appears, will be very much worn this
spring. One reason for this is that the nodistss
has been greatly neglected of late wears;
another, that lilac il a peculiarly lady-lke
color. The proof that il as TO be worn is the
fact that the new cloth RediagOtes are made up
at some of the most favored establishments. IN,
that color. These are from imported models.
and are trimmed with velvet of a darker IN ade.
In this exquisite color-though, in pointer fact,
II is hardly desirable in wrap of any sort
there is scale of new shades that exceed I'm
beauty any heretofoSe displayed. From the
merest ghost Of color to the deepest pansy
purple, all may be found I'm its various grades
and the popularity which they are destined to
give TO the color will, il it succeed, cause pan.
sizes, lilacs, and the delicate field flowers to re-
appear as ornaments. To some, no color is so
becoming as lilac. An auburn-haired person
can wear il, and even a decided blonde, il she
have a little pink i'm her cheeks. Lilac, be-
sides, combines well with white, and in some
materials with black.
THE TEA SHADES.
The tea shades hang fire. IL Is vaguely
rumored that tea" win go out this season;
but, judging from the extremely seryiceable
nature OF garments of these lines, i do not
believe that this will be the case. One reason,
however, that ought-if there were as much
taste i'm New York as there IL money to crafty
ito put an end to the wearing of the tea tiuts,
Is the excessive unbecomingness OF these colors.
Take the fairest, creamiest blonde, and YOU
greenish and CHASTITY, by placing them in juyta-
position with this trying color. A great deal of
color in the cheeks may make tea shades trifie
les trying, but even then the wearer would
look a hundred times better in another color
And again, the blonde hair becomes greenish
also from the peculiar shadows and lights cast
upon and over it by the tea hues. Since Nile
green was worn, nothing so unbecoming as TIA
color has cropped up. Yet, as 1 have said, this
shade H becoming a favorite with many who
have besitated to wear it heretofore, and who
is no denying that tea color wears we'll.
THE PLUNs AND BLUES.
The plums and blues still rage. So decided
an invasion upon the established rules OF color
took long time to obtain favor, but, as il
always the case when an eccentric mode has
been struggled against, when IL does succeed it
becomes furesr. For either house or street
wear, plum colored alpaca, lpoplin, or cash
mere, with cuffs, collar (sailor SHAPED aud side
pieces Of turquoise blue, makes an extremely
pretty dress, and is i'm high favor this spring.
In both bOnnets and hats, for misses, ladies
both young and of more advanced age, the
plums and blues mingle, and are the pre- valent
which has obtained the most
favor amongst the largest number.
,ad IN e ,S dor aaes misses gentlemen and
new glove is plum color embroidered with tur-
quoise blue. In evening dress this combination
OF colors Is rs fashionable as during the winter.
The two colors are combined as follows: deep
plum with turquoise blue, lighter plum with an
almost whitish blue, and an almost black plum
with sky blue.
Everybody that Is not going to the Adiron-
dacks, or to Colorado, is going to Europe.
Going to Europe has become merely a shopping
II undoubtedly saves a large part of the expense.
Ladies are beginning to understand by this
time In what direction to expend their resources
60 as to get the largest return. Cloth in Lon
don; collars, neckties, and gloves in Paris Irish
Poplln in Dublin; velvet in Genoa; case de CHAM
berry in Sevoy; neediework in Germany; and or
naments in Vienna. vslvetdress and basque
or along poonaise a set Of point lace. cloth SUIT
of bottle-green or eailor-blue, an embroidered
cashmere costume, a rich black silk suit trim
med with real lace, q real Irish poplin, SET in
GLIDING jacket, Of seal skin, set Of pink coral,
and pearl fan, are the principal items, the
''must haves" Of every ladys notebook. Ii may
be as well to mention that the most convenient
costume for trip to Europe il a black silk skirt
and black cashmere polonaise. belted i'm with
leather, with a mounted pocket attached. This
does not catch dust, will brush of easily aud Is
thoroughly lady-like. 1t should be handsome.
and will then last through an entire trip and
home again. The pocket fastens securely and
Is most convenient for change and the like
The belt holds the metal hook from which Is
suspended small umbrella, eye-glass, fan, and a
scent bottle. A long linen sack, or water proof
with over-cape, which can be removed at pleas
urc, is Indispensable.
DRESS RECEPTION.
Heretofore IL has been most dificult for
ladies-strangers in New York-to obtain a
glimpse Of really grand toilettes, the latest In
design, color, combination, and material. The
only course open to them, was 10 visit large es-
Establishments where they saw masses Of hetero-
genoue costumes on exhibition, select the least
Objectionable. or buy material, and entrust IL
to Providence and strange dressmaker, with
out any certain knowledge upon which to base
an estimate Of the skill-bey0nd that Of merely
mechAnical accuracy-With which she pef-
formed her task. This difaculty Il now olivia
ted b. s'dreo reception" which IL held d..
In the dre0-makt1g department 90 ,n,S a
Tay1er's large establE hment, or "a IL. "a. 49,
Av4s