Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1873-10-12
AUTUMN STYLES.

The GfaG u6A ktctuRn 10 SsBkpstCAsJ-
The Tendency to Combination 0
the Comfortable and Attractive
Confirmation of the RedingOte-
Walking skirts and Evening DEes
ses.
NEW YORK, Oct. Snow that the fash
ions for autumn and winter are fully deter
mined, it is well to consider what charge
there really are. In the first place, the lonl
desired and long promised return to Ger
tain simplicity in ornamentation is partl!
effected. 1t is not very noticeable yet, fol-
few perfectly new toillettes are scent bu
in few weeks the return will be plain
In street costumes the alteration is clearest
The absence Of superfuous trimming from
suits destined to be worn in all kinds o
weather and in all conditions of city streets
is sensible and artistic modification of past
styles. Nothing that is unfit is artistic; and
nothing can be more unfit than elaborate
outdoor dresses in the season of mud anC
slush.
There is certainly g.oplng after some
thing comfortable, and at the same TINT
attractive, in feminine attire; and it for this
reason, as much as for the love of variety
that the fashions are subject to such perpet,
ual changes. The cropping, rather blind SIS
yet, sometimes produces singular results:
but it is always tending toward the objec.
tive point--a dress as well suited to the Or
binary requirements of women as tie dress
of men is to their sex, and which shall be
obnoxious to as few notifications. AS a
proof of this there need only be mentioned.
THE REDINGoTE,
rrhiah uhar, frat anpoarod last cT,rino
was hailed as the coming garment. Nothing
half so comfortable, so easy to make, so
generally becoming, has been produced for
years, and the designer of tit is hardly
questionable that it must have been the
choice of woman-deserves well Of her
kind. Having run through summer as the
odd garment of wardrobe, it has LOW as
sumed the chiefposition,,as the upper portion
Of walking suit. Few costumes are made
without it; the variation being o
single skirt with long polonaise
basque, and a few with overskirt and
basque. The redingote has scarcely changed
at ell thus far; it IS finished either with 3
twoinch hem, or bias band piped on The
upper edge, as 1t has been since the begin
ming. The two rows of big buttons and the
bound button-h holes are still its only trim
ming in front, but it is frequently made with
two bases now, rendering it nearly, if not
quite tight fitting. The sash looped on the
left size is as often dispensed with as used,
and plain belt, clasping in front instead of
behind, is regardsd as the most elegant fin
ish. When the redingote belongs to suit,
buttons covered with the same, or with
silk to match, are proper. But when
it is made Of blue waterproof, diagonal
cloths, ladies' cloth or any of the numerous
heavy fabrics intended for it, and designed
to wear with any skirt, then buttons of sill
yer, jet and oxydlzed meatsls are admissible.
Now and then redingote is seen witha ruff
In the neck instead of coat collar; INT 1t
Is so positive mixture of styles-the en-
nently drawing room air of the one being
so totally at variance with the uncompro-
nizingly outdoor:shness Of the other-that
The experiment is not likely to become
fashion.
The severe aspect of the re iingote, of
course, admits of no coquetry in the re-
of the toilet. The skirt which &C
it should be simple, and General
y is. The
NEW WALKING SKIRTS
ire shorter and scantier than heretofore.
The French models barely touch the ground
behind, and do not measure more than three
yards and half round the extreme edge.
French ladies who, as compared with our
women, scarcely walk at all, still have so
great horror of soil that they never drag
heir gowns over filthy sidewalks, even in
heir briefest promentdes. a skirt designed
or walking is cut with reference to its use,
md not permitted to perform half the duty
If the street sweeper. Undoubtedly we got
,ur fashion of trailing skirts from Paris, but
t was fashion designed for the American
market, supposed to be as extreme in the
natter Of modes as OF manners.
TIKI TRIMMINGS
most attractive on the French suits are in
7ariably fat; full rufies, founces, pufings,
stc., having seemingly taken . long leave.
JDe of the prettiest costumes that has been
shown is trimmed like this: An eight-inch
straight side-plaited founce at the bottom,
headed by bias fold six inches wide, piped
with velvet on the upper edge. Above this
s space half the width of the fold, and
hen a second fold. The. overskirt-
our yards Of the silk, followed in
he middle, on one edge, to fit
over the figure in front, and gath cred into
he belt behind-is finished with a similar
old; the end, being turned over behind to
orm a broad sash. The waist is a half
fitting Jacket with square tabs behind, and
rounded basque in front. The tabs are
trimmed with fat velvet bands, and velvet
7est, instead of being laid on fatty, is cut
n the form of long revers, lined with silk,
md held ack by arrow of buttons on either
,ide, which are joined by loops of silk cord,
similar to frogs. Nothing can be simpler,
md nothing that we have seen, prettier
han this costume.
Flat folds, piped or plain, of all widths
md designs, promise to be the favorite trim
ming of dress material. Side plaitings, kilt
olaitipgs, box-plaited 1ounces and fat shell
are also used, but less frequently.
Passementerie in silk and worsted, hand
gimps of silk and mingled with
ct and steel, friDges of all kinds, heavy
1raids, like the old Hercules, fat bands of
velvet, velvet ribbon, etc., are desirable and
expensive trimmings. The hope that with
simpler dresses, would come cheaper prices,
s futile. The cost of the extra fabric used
formerly for decoration is fully equalled by
he dearness of The. imported ornaments in
rogue at present. Plainess and economy
nay sometimes be synonymous-but they
ire not now.
In all varieties of other
DRESSES,
Iuch as are for home, dinner and evening,
here are few models of simplicity. For
hem the overskirt is abandoned; but its
absence is hardly perceptible In the multi
olicity of embellishments. Demi-trains
have taken the place of full trains for every
occasion except the extreme of iull dress,
and then are as often sesn as not seen.
That this is much more convsnient and
graceful than the wastes of silk and satin,
which the most skillful can scarcely
in crowded room, will
hardly be denied. 1t takes a great deal
ess, also, to cut and trim demi-train than
t does full one, which is more practical
but an equally positive advantage. The com.
bining Of two or three materials and as
many shades is The fayorite method; and
:ilk, satin and lace, silk velvet and CASH
mere, and other mixtures are seen on every
laDd. Two shades of ons color seems to
be more favorably regarded than two
,olors, possibly because it is less easy for
hands and unframed eyes to make blunders
n the former than in the latter. The
Of two coiors requires the
incest ocula: judgment and most
lal;oot 70 mammal skill IN nravnnf uIar;no fail.