The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-09-26
FALL FASHIONS.
Opening Day Among the
Milllners.
Wall Street Has No Terrors for
the Modesto
A Grand Display Of Styles and Materials, and
Greater Crowds Than Ever Before.
The Lay Of the Last Bonnet and Song
of the Early Robe.

The Lay of the Last Bonnet and Song
of the Early Robe.
While far and wide the throes OF the financial
earthquake that has desolated Wall street are
felt. and while great houses that have braved the
fury OF many a storm in that i-starred quarter,
come crashing down one after the other, the
realms OF Fashion are as serene and bright as If
ali was peace and plenty around them. While the
Stock Exchange is closed and gloomy faces are to
be seen in the hunting grounds Of the stock gam
bier and railroad Spectator, the shrine of the
n2Odise is decked in its brightest and gayest attire,
and to it throng the myriad worshippers OF the
chameleon deity. Wall street has no terrors for
the nsodtste for the daughters Of Eve Will come to
her, even II husband, father lover must sacrifice
their last bond. For the last two days Broadway
and Sixth avenue, those two great th0rOughfares
on which that ever changing, often fantastic and
never to be ignored creation OF feminine fancy the
fashionable toilet, Is to be seen in all Its glories
and extravagances have presented sight OF almost
carnival gaiety and excitement. Lines OF carriages
before the stately houses on the former street and
struggling crowds on the sidewalks Of the latter,
where the stores like the American Institute Fair,
contain everything from frame building to
toOthpick from ball dress TO o paper OF pins.
Talk Of impending disaster in any of those houses.
The only complaints to be heard were from
the overwOrked clerks and tired naodistes,
rom whose cheeks rosy tlnts had long de-
parted. And all day long surged the crowd,
now pouring into one OF those magnificent
Broadway marts, where everything is spick-span
new each season, and where every cline under the
sun contributes towards the countless treasures Of
fashion spread out before the admlrlng gaze OF the
beholders, and now wedging themselves into
solid mass into Sixth avenue bazaar that
kaleidoscope OF modern requirements, still re-
wolves the plnwheel Of fashion, with its flashing
glories which are being constantly repeated, and
around it throng the vstaries, eager for every
city, which often proves to be some old friend in
new shape. No wailing cry over lost securities is
heard there. Costumes for collateras, mantuas
for margins, barege and boas for bulls and bears,
polonase anal cashmere for puts and calls, rule in
these quarters.
HARMONY IN DRESS.
To be in the fashion is q term often used and yet
little understood by many ladies'. 1t is gratifying
that glimmering Of its true meaning is beginning
to dawn on the female mind. Adaptability not only
to figure, are. and complexion, but to circum-
stances and surroundings is received pretty gene
rally as the modern Interpretation Of the word
fashion. snowy bonnet with dowdy dress or o
tIbA VI COJtOH VI serge III lmLdIlOu VI BLK reCop-
ton visiting robe is contrary to the laws Of the
imperious goddess. Harmony in toilet Is the
most desirable end to be attained by those who
wish to dress a la mode There is such vast
variety OF styles and materials and prices too, now
a-days to select from, that no lady has any excuse
for being Questionable in her dress.
THE MILLINERY OPENINGS a
yesterday claimed the principal share OF attention
The crowning glory OF toilet, the bonnet, was
shown In so many varieties that it Is q difficult
task to remember any but the most striking. To
give those airy nothings local habitation and .
name taxed the ingenuity OF some OF the modistes
for SO dainty we've they that we feared to touch
them, lest, like the sheen Of butterny's wing,
they would disappear. And the namesi Where
two bonnets are alike classification is out OF the
question annd description often the same. His
tory and the stage have been ransacked for names
until they are exhausted. All the ingenuity of
which the feminine mind Is capable has been exer.
cised this season in designing new shapes for hats
and bonnets and yet IN most cases the result is
but o modification of those worn q season or
two ago.
The display Of bonnets at Lord 4 Taylors was
Ill the heart OF q milliner could desire. A bonnet
from Nine. Vivot's, Paris was in three shades Of
sage and was handsomely trimmed with roses and
D long ostrich plume, shaded to match the hat.
The inside trimming consisted Of punings OF silk.
Beside 1t was q pretty hat of navy blue velvet
caught up on one side by o bunch OF roses and
trimmed around the crown with double box plaits,
laced with light turquoise blue and finished with a
handsome ostrich tip. group OF eager faces
lowered around coquettish little hat designed for
q young miss in her teens. 1t was of the Nor.
mandy shape and the trimming Of the
front consisted OF beautiful tea roses,
while around it were small tips caught
In the back with loops OF ribbon.
The three shades Of dark green Of which the hat
consisted were SO nearly alike that it would be i'm
possible to designate the exact difference, and yet
each produced its own individual effect. round
hat, with felt brim turned up one side, was of
o light shade OF drab, with turquoise blue trim
mng a long, shaded ostrich plume, moss roses
and steel ornament. Very dtsttrsgue looked black
velvet bonnet trimmed with the same material
large plat, and around the front lowered a heavy
Jet coronet. tran OF lace and ribbon to match
fell at the back and the blush OF the red, red
relieved the darkness OF the crown.
A PEEP AT THE EARLY ROBES
In the reception room, In which everything is
blue, from the carpet and tasseled hangngs to the
piano cover and library, magnificent robes, the
avant cOuriers OF the season. were placed on exhi-
bition. On a raised das, lit Tor empress, was a
rcn black silk dress en- train, having but one skirt
only Around the lower part OF the skirt was a
deep iounce OF black silk and large pui1ngs OF the
same extending to the waist. The full plated
front had rows OF handsome Jet, caught on one
side py large Jet buckles and silk bows. postil-
lion Jacket, eab0rately trimmed with let COM
pleted this handsome robe. Near 1T, as a con-
trast was placed a long gray polonaise OF "gros
royale" silk, heavily trimmed with deep
bands OF black velvet, large passcmenterfe
ornaments and delicate fringe, all 81 the same
shade as the silk. Mousquetaire CUTS completed
this strlkinglv handsome garment. stylish de-
sign for a very young lady lthe comparative must
be used in regard to age when speaking OF toilets)
was an overdress and Jaunty jacket artistcally
combined. The material was heavy Gamers halr,
OF light brown shade. deeper shade OF brown
ribbon, with heavy bow, in the back sustained by
Jet buckles, formed the trimming. The jacket was
double breasted and very becoming. Nothing
could exceed the iaultless symmetry oil black SIX
and cashmere robe, the underskirt OF which con-
sisted OF black silk, trimmed with side plait-
ings, headed with a shell trimming Of cash.
mere. The outside garment wac OF cash
mere, eiaDorately ornamented with black