Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1873-06-20
Fashions Of the Season.

That summer eve. who knoWsl
But be kept the flower and won the maid
So the story goes
Fashions Of the Season.
SUMNER BoNNETs.
Fashionable millinerS have opened their
last mportati0us for the season. The choice
in bonnet~ remains between chip and black
net. Ecru chip is an undressei sewed braid.
very soft and light and altogether different
from the chalk-whte stiff chip formerly
worn besides, it, whiteness Is so nearly
concealed by trimming that all objections to
to it are removed, and it Is considered a most
dre->y Summer hat The trimming is ALWAYS
bias reupel 81 x. and the color is chosen with
reference to the principal costume Of the
wearer bat ~I much black lace and such
varied hJWcr~ are used on the bonnet that it
becomes genenlizcd enough To suit various
dresses. Black chip Is also much worn, and
is almost as light rs "a lace bonnet The
latest caprice ON elegant French hats Is to
pat a great deal Of trimming all around un-
derneath the brim, to lie on the brad- Of hair
that are now worn high around the head
This trimming consists Of a fiat band of fold
ed ribbon, ON which is laid part of wreath
of leaves or roses on the left side. with a CO.
quettish bow on the right The band lies
close 10 the head around the crown braid
and the hat brim above it Is lined with silk
and turned upward. or else outward in most
capricious fashion. Another Stvlish fancy
is 10 have the upturned brim of white chip
hats thickly studded with finest let below
this is then placed coil or band of ribbon
ofbecuming color. Themost simply trimmed
med bonnets have flower cluster lust in
front Of the brim, OF one side, or else bow
with turned up ends is perohod coquettishly
on the plain smooth facing. Pink or blue
ribbon rolls and pufs under the brim are
yeiied with black lace, on which is placed
a fine Jet ornament. For half wreaths under
brims. pale, pink sweet-brer, with its thor
ny stem and glossy leaves, row Of dwarfed
roses. and the bright blue garden pinks, seem
To be the iayorite flowers Clustering white
elder flowers. tea-roseS, and vines Of iyv
leaves. grape leaves and the colored nastur-
ti'n, are On stately bonnets for elderly ladies;
blue. iorEct-mc-nots mixed with pink wild
roses are for fresh. youthful faces.
The hack of the crown Is also another OBJ
ieciHe point for trimming. especially for
hunche> or l1nr-~temmcl roSebuds. tied to-
gcther carcie-iy. showing the cut. pointed
ends of their flexible stems and the string
with which they are held. These rosebud
clusters are sometimes an pink, but are often
cr pink, red and yellow together They
troop over the edge OF the crown in Spanish
fashion, and are preJtier and wear better
than the long. trailing vines that are soon
tangled and broken. Two nolding ostrich
pllmes at the hack of RabagaS bonnetS add
much to their style. Black chip Rabagas
with black plumcs are especially admired
with stylish black costumes The small
space still undescribed between the brim and
the rose cluster on tie crown usually shows
the clear outline of the soft chip. handed
with tapping lolso bias silk. with a knot
or loops on the left side Ii /, a matter of
fancy about ribbon OF lace drapery behind.
The prettiest lacedrapery is three corner
eI piece OF dotted net edged with lace, and
folded back and forth like the Spirals of a
cabot, or else a square in great double box
pleat ike Vatican fold. Two hanging
ends of lace behind are not now worn. but
long ribbon ends are much used Ii Is not
however, matter Of taste about strings, as
they are now added to everything. round
hats and b1nnets alike; and the PRINCIPAL
difference between hats and bonnets lies in
the way the strings are tied, viz, under the
chin for b0nnetS and under the coifure for
hats. Two-and-a-half inch ribbon strings
are most used, but these are soon Soiied by
persplration the first warm days will see
revived the cool and pretty fashion ofback
lace strings loosely held under the chin bv
rosebud and leaves.
One Of the prettiest Rahagas bonnets Is a
soit white rice chip with sky blue repped
band under the brim, on which is laid a vine
otgreen rose leaves with rink bud cluster
on the right Blue bands and an aicrette
trim the outside. Another Rabagas. made
for the Presidents fair-haired daughter
Nellie, Is Of black dotted net, with pale pink
iaile on the hrim. ard black lace ruche
with coquettiSh pink bow for face trimming.
\ wreath Of blue forget-me-nots fills the
space back of the brim. aud long-stemmed
PINK rose buds droop from the crown. Black
and pink ribbon pendants, and black Sbbon
strings \ chip Hortense bonnet, with
ample crown and cornet brim. recedng on
the sides and turned down behind. was
chosen by a tall, stately blonde The bri-.n
was faced with black velvet, and had t, II
qaoise blue roll beneath. Turquoise fold $. a
blue pompon, glossy green leaves, and b'.own
berries, with black lace string, com ,leted
the trimming. Price S42 4 white chin
from Paris is to be worn with an o. i've cos
tune. The brim is faced with rfile blue.
and blue band lying on the high braid of
HAIR supports wreath of ivy lea YES, tiny
stems of cedar, some pink roSc-buds a yellow
rose, and pale blue garden pink. Olive
brown silk of two shades is fold ed around
the crown, and two ostrich pluInes noddine
on the crown are shaded from dark to light
olive. \ fine black chip has the turned-up
brim thickly incrusted with Jet, and pink
roll underneath. Soft tulle is pulled over
the crown, and two ostrich tips droop back
ward over a cluster of pink hedge roses. A
square Of lace falls like iabot behind. A
white chip from Nirot's has pale creamy
brown repped silk facing the brim. and a
darker olive roll beneath, with pink rose-buds
Just IN front. Loops of ereaul-color trim the
crown, and two shaded brown plumes sur
mount 1t. Long olive ribbon streamers be-
hind.
NEWLY DRAPED LACE POINTS.
Modistes are draping lt,ee points to form
stylish round NANTES Of pretty taIma shane
with arm-holeS and slender pointed hood
h "lH / uohe Wlthor.t cutting or stretching
uis iaoe' ana utlll7 e the points, which, not
eAtN IT lneutS> anu NulAe, Lave
an oiu-wolnanls look and are very diff cult
70 wear graeet tully. The lace point is tu rned
ulNiue a"wr., 80 that the straight top forms
the bottom of the talma; the point below is
'nen ~ tie top, and Is turned over from the
LeoS le1S AZ folded into the perfect shape of a
IoDI' winch Is held in place by watered. rib
pon ''ows down the middle The long ends
AZ The side are then caught up high m the
"-east under ribbon bow. and this leaves
;1l ~ open SIT Tor each arm To pass thr Ough.
TO drape mantle in this way requires little
ingenuity after once being told and the styl-
lSh effect Is excellent
TIE NEW KILT PLEATING.
4 pretty change is given to the long worn
and still fashionable kilt pleating by an ang-
ing the pleats in groups. For instance, on a
fat hounee fve-eighths of yard deep, put a
cluster of four kilt pleats, each an incll and
half wide, and all well Tapped then let a
PLAIN space of two inches intervene ' tween
this cluster and the next. This is very
pretty trimming for alpacas, and for the
black tateta silk skirts that ladies are or
derlng to wear under polonaises of cashn ere
and 6atistf. The founce is straight, hs a
hall inch hem on the lower edge, is stitcl ned
on an inch below the top, leaving stand. ing