The New York herald., 1873-09-10
Mr.. Edmund Yates on the Eating
and Amusements of the
Austrian Capital.
Chez Vous, Monsieur, on Mango Naia
on ne Dine Pas a
The Cholera and The Representatives Of
the London Times.
GMuNDEN, Austria, August "a, 1873.


All the Inhabitants had gone away. Mr.. Garrett
son, Chief Commissioner Tor the United states
Kindesr OF Western giants, was or on an expedi
tion into Switzerland, whittier, also, Mr.. owen,
Secretary OF the British Commission, who has been
hard at work In the Austrian capital, day and
night since February, had also hurried to see one
OF his children, who was sick. Nobody was left In
Vienna but q few hundred thousand people not OF
much account and Pay Director Cunningham, Of
rhe United States Navy. The Pay Director is q
capital companion, and looks credit TO his native
country in his blue shirt and straw hat ; but one
could enjoy his society better In u cooler quieter
and less dusty place. What
A FIAsCO
the whole thing has been up to the present timei
In my last letter spoke OF the hotels propose
now TO say few words the eating and amuse-
ments. The viennese pride themselves upon being
In the front rank. so far cuisine Is concerned;
but, IN sober truth they have not the Iaintest no.
tion of the meaning OF the word. The reproach
which the cynical Frenchman addressed to his
boasting friend, "Chez votls Monsieur, on
mango, mats on ne dine pas,n is perfectly ap-
plicable. They have huge masses OF meat,
wondrous wealth OF vegetables and fruits;
but, beyond soaking everything in grease and
serving np with either very sweet or very sour
sauce, they have no ideas OF cooking need not
ment to approach DelmonicO's, because. IN my
opinion the world can, oil things considered pro-
duce no rival to the famous Fourteenth street res
taurant, but here is nothing at all worth Dragging
about. People talk about Sacher's, suppose prin-
cipay because the manner OF service at SaQhe r's
Is better and less gross than elsewhere; but That
is served is poor enough. 1t seems as If the very
Austrian air had deterorating effect on the pro-
fessors OF the stewpan and sauceboat. AS you,
perhaps, know. the celebrated Partisan dining
house, the ''TrOs Freres ProveDcaux.' - has "given
out" and exists no longer. Two OF the brothers
are dead, but the third-Or at least stout,
swarthy Gascon who AYERS himself to be the last OF
the famous trinity-has come to Vienna and
pitched his tent in the Exhibition grounds The
reputation Of Paris had preceded him. and his re-
cepls must have been large. 1t was always
necessary te bespeak q table, ahd his tent
was overnOwng while neighb0rng res
taurants had not q single customer. His
prices were exorbtant, as thought a German
family whom ] saw there the other day. They
came In, father mother and child, looked at the
carte du jour- bill OF fare Tor the day, and gave
their order. Presently, while the waiter gone,
the mother took up the price list look Of horror
flashed in her face, she uttered something to her
husband, who took from his pocket forty kreughs
about twenty cents and laid them on the table.
lneu tne WHOlc parry, WNuouI WdtluS loT tueir
dinner, stole away. French, Americans and Eng
lish however, do not mind paying high price for
their dinner, II 1t be good, but the last brother
cannot claim that distinction. HIS dishes are no
more like the old pl0ts OF the old Tros Ftyes than
Greene street whiskey store Is like the Brevoort
In fact go hig,, 60 low, you cannot fnd any thing
like satisfactory dinner In q Viennese restaurant.
| The catts are much better than the restaurants.
1t is said that the viennese obtained the of
coffee making from the Turks certainly they excel
In it, and their tees are also delicious. Each car,
has its separate class OF supporters. AT Daum's,
! on the Kohlmastt, you will find generals and field
marshaIs sitting around talking pleasantly to each
other and to Herr Daum, the proprietor, OF the
| richest and most popular men in the city; at
Czechs, on the Graben, congregate the merchants
In the intervals OF business and at the close OF
BOurse; at Grlenstiedds, are the journalists; still
Neuners, on the Plaukengepi, IS the headquarters
Tor the shopkeepers.
Vienna this year, and that at the close OF the Exhi
btion. when the dark weather Will have set In, It
| may be as well 10 say something In this letter OF
THE SUMNER AMUsEhENTs
In the fine weather Vienna, even more than Paris.
lives outof-doors; for the Parisans confne them
the Asnieres. Mabille, Buer &C., being irequented
only by the gay ana young, whereas all Vienna,
young and old. gentle and simple, empties itself
| into the beer gardens or different ranks which sur
round the city. The inferior kinds Of these estab
lishments rely solely on the quality Of their beer
ior their attraction The better class provide coce
and ices, and have usually q band attached, which
plays ut Intervals. The passion OF the vlennese for
instrumental music Is well known, and, devotng
themselves as they do to their favorite distinc-
tion, they have brought 1t to pitch OF per-
! lection. Strauss orchestra for dance music has
world vide fame; but 1t would not be too much to
Whose s1 periormances are Calculated to give pleas @
ure to the most cultivated ear. strauss band IL
to be found at the yoksgarten, the most fash
poser conducts in person. BY the way there are
two Strausses (brothers) John and Edward, VINO
arc both great composers and conductors. and
each OF whom has his patrons and supporters.
They are the sons OF one who was greater than
all the youths and maidens OF q quarter of a cen
tury ago quite crazy; not in Austria alone, bur
throughout Europe: ! recolect hearing John
went to waltzing tune, commencing
ysn Strauss John stra9s US the girls ds are are all mad
While Johann Strauss rules over the VOlksRarteD,
his brother Edward Is the hon OF less select, but
much larger establishment, the Neue Welt, or New
World, within hall an hours drive OF Vienna and
| close by the imperial palace Of Sch6nbrunn. Here
there Is combination OF attractions-a large
theatre, two huge orchcstras and the outdoor cdJs
| and beerhouse life. Before visiting the Neuc
| Welt people generally dine at Dommeyer's, an aver
| age al yrescO restaurant, with band Of its own.
! These last lew words arc almost supernuous; for,
as the blacking manuiacturer kept poet,' so
| does nearly every large place Of public entertain
| ment "keep' band. In the Prater they swarm,
and their close oontiguity TO each othcf necessi,
tates q meidnge OF music which Is curious, to say
the least Of It, ON tne ss tRe Enss as
the city, Is the Bumensaale, q aconcert hail. now oc
cupied by
A BAND OF FORTY YOUNG LADIES,
with damsel Tor their leader. These girls who are
! dressed In a pretty blue Uniform, and who conduct
themselves with perfect proprety, play remarkably
well, and have had great success. 1t haacpot
been weather Tor indoor amusements, but was az
the opera the other night and heard the immortal
''D0n Giovanni, fairly conducted. The Austrians
are not nearly so good In vocal as in instrumental
music. Their voices are generally harsh and throaty,
and lack refinement and sympathy. The Kari
Theatre was also open. but as the pieces are writ
! ten In the Austrian dialect and TEEN with local
illusions and sly hits at vienna society," IT Is not
possible for stranger, even with ialr Knowiedge
| OF German, to understand them.
| There Is no doubt that
THE ALARM OF CHOLERA
| has had o vast influence In keeping people away
| from Vienna, and that thousands OF intending
visitors during these autumn holiday months have
changed their course and selected another destina.
| tion. The viennese are very wrOth with the Lon
don Times, to the statements OF whose local