The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1873-03-26

A few days since l was attracted by large
crowd who l found were entertained by 6
dancing monkey, apparently little inferior
in the scale of being to the pOpulace whom
he was amusing by his tricks, except that
they have immortal souls destined to eternal
life, or eternal death. But they have CON-
mitted their souls to the care of priests, and
give themselves little trouble about them.
We drove by the Trajan column and FO-
rum, the palace of the Caesars, now ruin,
by the Coliseum, the church Giovanni Latera'
nj, on the eastern border of the city, and
along the Appian way. For more than
mile we were moving on line with the Clau-
dian aqueduct, built in the time of Claudius
Cesar, which extends forty-three miles to
the Apprentices. The aqueduct is supported
by substantially built arches. The Cam
pagna outside of the city is vast plain, ap-
parently of great fertility. A similar view
is presented on the north side of the city,
only more rolling. There we saw large
aocks of sheep tended by shepherds.
There are many open plazas and fountains
of water pouring out from the mouths of
lions; sometimes over rugged rocks which
look very natural. The great fountain pour
ing out its abundant waters, is presided over
by Neptune seated in his chariot above, two
grooms are holding his fiery steeds (''half
horse, half alligator the head and shOul-
ders of horse, the remainder, the long
body of fish whose tail reaches to the
chariot These open spaces, and gushing
waters must tend to counteract the natural
unbealthiness of the crowded city.
7th. This morning we went to the church
Santa Marie Apostoli. 1t is small circu
lar church in front of the Trajan column
and Forum-very beautiful. The walls are
of variegated marble of several different kinds
and colors. 1t has fine dome ornamented
with gliding and paintings. There are seven
altars. At the principal one priest and a
little boy were carrying on worship, reading
very rapidly for the benefit of small num-
Der of people kneeling very devoutly, or
sitting in chairs. The altar of the Virgin had
picture of her, crowned with gold. Above
in beautiful dome were angels painted in
frescO; behind her picture was large cross,
and in the rear of that the Saviour. On
each side was a picture of one of the apos-
ties. On the opposite side of the church
was the altar of the Saviour, a picture of
him above the altar, without crown. On
one side was full length picture of the Sa,
viOr on the cross, and opposite to this Mary
was portrayed, looking very sad. This lit.
tie church is bJou in its way; everything
about it is in good taste. two vpmen were
confessing to priests who were enclosed in
what are called confessionals.
Leaving this we visited an old gallery of
paintings, Monte Pieta. There are some
very fine, but none particularly worthy of
note. My eye rested on one of Joseph, and
Mary with the infant Jesus in her arms fee
ing to Egypt. They had but one ass, signi-
flying their poverty. l then visited my
friend John Chapman, with whom l have
much pleasant intercourse. 1t was he who
executed the painting of the marriage of
PocahOntas in the Capitol at Washington.
Chapman is true Virginian-one of his
sons was in our army.
paused to day at the column of Angus
tus Caesar, less imposing than that of Trajan,
but more interesting, as memento of the
Augustus of the Augustan age, who accom-
plished by profound craftsmanship what his
nncle failed to do by successful arms; the
greatest of all Roman emperors for the
peace and happiness of the people; who
raised the Roman empire to height of power
and grandeur, which it never attained either
before or since.
9Th. The church of St. Clement is chiefly
noted for its antiquity, though it was no
doubt considered very handsome when it was
built in the 18th Century, and might be now,
but that it is so far eclipsed by many others
1t has marble statue of the martyr over
his tomb, and on the side of the church one
of the Saviour on the cross. Modern exca-
vations have discovered, twenty feet beneath
the foundations of the above, church, the
inscriptions on which show that it was built
in the Sd century. I went down into this
subterrauean church. The walls are un-
broken except the plastering-the marble
columns in inches in the walls are perfect.
Frescoes are seen in many places, the edges
rubbed off by time. In one place l saw a
very distinct representation of the admins
tration of the Sacrament-the minister and
the participants of the ordinance plainly
visible. In another place is a painting of
Clemens, who was the companion of St. Paul.
There is raised place where the altar is
supposed to have stood. In modern times
plain altar has been placed there. There
are many frescOes, probably of some of the
apostles. Under the altar is the tomb of
Clemens. More wonderful still-a large
building erected before the Christian era
has been found under the second church above
described. 1 stood at the top of the steps
leading down to this sub-subterranean temple,
or whatever it was, but had not time to de-
soend into this lower deep. Whether I shall
do it or not, l cannot now say. If do, l