The New York herald., 1873-09-30
FREE FRANCE.
AHerald Correspondent In the Champagne
Country After the Evacuation.
HIS CHATS WITH FRENCH EOTABLES.
4 Difference Of Opinion Concerning the Amia-
bility Of the German Troops.
BISMARCK A JOLLY GOOD FELLOW
King William Kind Old Man, Who
Never Gould Say No.
INCIDENTS OF THE LATE WAR.
The Herald Correspondent in the Danger
GUS Vicinity of Champagne.
WHAT He THINKS OF THE BEVERAGE.
The Caves Of Widow Olicquot and Some Hints
to Consumers of Her Juices.
INCIDENTS OF THE LATE WAR.
The Herald Correspondent in the Danger
GUS Vicinity Of Champagne.
WHAT HE THINKS OF THE BEVERAGE.
The Caves Of Widow Olicquot and Some Hints
to Consumers of Her Juices
THE DARK TEMPLE OF BACCHUs.

L nave matted at the ancient city OF Rheims
on my way to the shrine of Our Lady of
Messe, where there is 10 be a grand national pill
grtmage OF the French working classes in a few
days. 1t is being organized by certain Captain
de Nun. President OF the Catholic workmens
clubs (cercles Catalogues d'ouUriers about here,
gentleman who holds high place in the esteem OF
the French clergy. Rheims Is the best post Of OBJ.
eervati0n to watch these working pilgrims as they
muster coming in from all the towns and villages
OF Picardy, French Flanders the Ardennes and the
Champagne country.
While they are getting ready purpose to ascer-
tain the effect which mas been produced by the
departure OF
THE GERMAN ARMY OF OCCUPATION
from place which was for some time the head
quarters OF the Emperor William and where no less
than 100000 of the invaders were quartered from
urst to last. 1t is
VERY OLD AND PICTURESQUE CITY,
this town OF Rheims, and though 1t is the centre OF
the French wool trade, and exports 100000 bot
ties of champagne yearly, IL is at least two CEN
turies behind Bordeaux, Lyons, Marseilles and the
other principal seats OF French industry and COM
merce. Many or It's streets still remain they
were In the feudal times. GrotesQue wooden
houses with quaint roofs, and one rude window in
the middle OF them, jut out in irregular manner,
which shows that they were built at period when
there was no such person as
CITY ARCHITECT
to mark the lines between pavement and road
way. The inhabitants are not given to gging
and fddling like the population Of modern French
towns. They keep well within doors, 90 to bed
early and begin coopertng at daybreak They
have no pisces OF amusement but one large new
theatre, which looks as II 1t were used. The
only public entertainment going on was given
by wandering ventriloquist, who seemed to have
lost himself, and was exhibiting his talents to
solitary waiter at coffee house, because the
Reeims people evidently would pay nothing to look
az him. They find it cheaper to walk about their
bouIevards of an evening or to take stroll into
the country than to waste their sous In sight
seeing. They are "'>.c
NOT so FAR WRONG
perhaps In taking this view of their case for the
neghborhood of Rheims is among the loveliest in
France-wel watered, well wooded and all alive
with light winds and gay flowers. 1t has a BIRDS
nest look about 1t. Bright country houses
are half hidden in bowers OF trees,
rich farms are slowed away in pleasant
holIows ans embedded in clusters OF roses. All
Champagne has an unmistakable air OF wealth and
prosperity about IT, though the soil, like that of
most wine growing districts. is' poor. There is
little pasture here, and cream such as that of Nor
mandy and Brittany cannot be got for love or
money; but
THE GERMANS HAVE TAUGHT GARDENING TO THE
FRENCH,
and SO out OF war and confusion, as II has ever
been in this world, come order land beauty. The
close character OF the vegetation in Champagne is
very remarkable. There is hardly an inch OF
ground which has not been made to bring forth.
The parks and gardens OF some OF the rich mer-
chants are sufocated with plants, and they have
scarcely left themselves breathing room about
their windows.
put up at the Lion dor, q rambling old inn of
type almost extinct. 1t is built opposite that
beautiful cathedral where the French kings were
crowned, and which is one of the wonders OF
mediavai architecture A few doors of is the
house OF Jeanne dare the most popular heroine OF
French history.
fat, roundabout little landlord, four feet and
mali hign welcomes me in the solemn manner OF a
man who has much to do with the superior clergy
and who takes
AN HONEST PRIDE IN A wELL-FILLED LARDgR
Indeed though Rheims Is an inland town, there
d want of fish at the Lion dor. Fresh
soIcs aud monster Holsters, turbot, and salmon,
the river king, are all here, and choice for
q good breakfast lies spread upon the kitchen
dresser TO tempt hungry traveller into ordering
feast.
The hams OF Rheims its fruit, biscuits and pastry
are almost as famous as the champagne wines;
and here that delicate Bouzy, which will not bear
removal by rail or ship, is alone TO be drunk in
perfection pass
AN AGREEABLE HALF HOUR
the breakfast room OF the Golden Lion, sitting
by an open window, in full view OF the cathedral,
and listening to the deep-toned oells as they call
good Catholics to their prayers and ladies' glide
with swift footsteps through the doors OF that
splendid temple which the piety OF former ages has
raised to the worship OF the living God, and which
stand ever open. week DAYS as we'll as SAINTS DAYS
and sundays. Priests, too come out in twos and
threes rom the archiepiscopai palace hard BY and
then the bell stops, leaving warning silence in
the air which seems to mean
TIME WAS, TIME Is, TIME Is PAST
Prayers have begun; they Will soon be over. and
the dial's hand Is moving fast ! never heard such
beautiful chanting anywhere as In the Cathedral at
Rheims.
Igo to see the Sub-Prefect OF Rheims about noon
and nnd him handsomely lodged In a large, cool.
shady house. near the Archbshop's palace One
can that the prefecture is govern
ment property at glance, without
even looking up at the tri-coored nag
which is poked out on a stan from the first noor
and hangs down rather disconsoately. The large
court yard. the passages and staircases are kept
scrupulou sly clean and the Sub-Prefecs's study,
onto which am sh own, is a'lofty apartment excel
lently furnished. 1t ha 8 none OF that bare hypo-
critical aspect OF English offcial quarters, where
J0BBERY GOES ON UPON A DEAL TABLE
with whtewashed walls around 1t. The Sub.
.Prefects room Is comfortable, its decorations are
ief sotd sort and 1t is not got up 10 deceive the