Wilmington journal. [volume] (Wilmington, N.C.) 1844-1895, 1873-08-08
been ON the street, priced as the pos

street dress for all classes, and the
party dress par eaellence is res
eryed exclusively for ceremoniOus
evening occasions. This is great
step in advance and is doing more for
the emancipation of women than the
agitation of the right of vote.
Opposite to me at my table in the
dining room at Congress Hall, sit
three ladies. Two are young and
unmarried, and are each possessed OF
a million dollars in their own right,
the other is the wife of a millionaire
whose house and grounds upon Mad
ison avenue in New York are estimated
as worth $500, 900, and whose income
is over one hundred thousand dollars
per''year. These ladies' have worn the
same plain black dresses in the morn
ing and the same almost as plain silk
dresses in the evening every day since
my arrival. Their hair is coiled or
pleated and entirely destitute of orna-
ment and their neckties are SO simple
that shop girls in New York would
turn up their noses at them.
The distinguishing features of the
attire of a lady as distinct from that of
others is getting to be it's adaptability.
"
upon the size of the hoop skirt later
it was the length of train, soon it will
be fitness or appropriateness to differ
ent functions, pursuits, and occupa-
tons.
This is fast becoming the case with
gentlemen also.
GENTLEMEN's FASHIONS.
Eli Perkins in note to one this
morning says "Gentlemen's fashions
in America, as they have long been in
Europe, have become conventional and
fixed. They no longer change with
the whims of tailors, but well bred
gentlemen with complete wardrobes
have certain suits of clothes for GER
tain occasions and keep the same or
similar suits year after year. The
tailors used to dictate low necked
shirts and then all the coats and collars
would have to be cut down in the neck.
Then they would institute high necked
shirts and collars would go up again.
Now, gentleman with a long or short
neck prOcures coat and shirt collar to
correspond i'll hight and keeps the
same fashion year after year. A long
necked person should wear the high
English standing collar, while a short
necked person should wear low Byron
collars. The suits which an American,
French, English, or German gentleman
should have are as follows
Nor7s,uQ Business Suits.-English
Oxford hats, medium hight cutaway
coat Black, blue, or grey waistcoat to
match, single or double breasted );
pantaloons a shade lighter If per-
son is stout he should wear single
breated coat and waistcoat if tall,
worn let the suit be complete of one
of warm color-some sweet symphony.
Wear strong. easy shoes.
-iTfCrWoOn Street COstJt1lc.-High
dress hat, standing collar blue, ma
room, or parti-colored scarf Prince
Albert frock coat, always buttoned up;
drab pataloons and gloves several
shade lighter than the coat high laced
or h1ttoned shoes.
-4TtcrUOOn RfccOtiOn Wifh Lddics
m L0{ies IN BCnnets. - Wear black
crush hat which can be carried under
tie arm; white standing collars, light
pearly amber or black scarf with gloves
TO match Prince Albert frock coat ;
black and always kept buttoned; light
drab pantaloons calfskin boots.
I'm Dress ECc,ting IOitiette.-Hat
left on the dressing room standing
collar; pure white tie immaculate
open shirt front plain studs or dia-
monds; swallow tailed coat single
breasted black waistcoat ; black trou-
sers calfskin boots.
- Ifaciay .Stits.-Can be OF fancy
p:aids with striped shirt&an collars,
fancy hat bands, patent leather shoes,
&C.
Ge,tlenlcn's Je,pe1ry.-A gentleman
will wear no jewelry which is not ne
cessitate by utility. He may wear
collar buttons, studs, cuff buttons, a
watch chain, and a seal ring with
which he seals his letters-in no case
diamond Or pearl rings for mere orna-
mcntation.
Thus an American gentleman to be
always Well-dressed needs only three
suits Of clothes, all of which are toned
to the three coats mentiOned-the cut
away morning coat, the Prince Albert,
walking or reception coat, and the full
dress evening coat.
1t will be seen that there is a strict
correspondence between the different
parts of each ot these styles of dress,
and it is in their adaptation to each
other that the gentleman is seen
through them all.
Bring II countryman to Saratoga in
the season and he will be very likely to
make some such mistake as the follow
ing Meeting 4 gentleman in morning
dress he observes the SLOUGH hat and
says : "Come now that is sensible. 1
like that. I'll get one of those hats"
and forthwith mounts one. Later he
notices a Prince Albert frock coat and
concludes that is the style for him too.
He goes to the races, takes a fancy to
the g fancy striped shirts, red neck
ties, patent leather boots, and checked
trousers there displayedsand gets him.
self up accordingly.
Next day, looking at himself in his
strip of looking glass-slouched hat,
frock coat, checked pantalOons, striped
shirt, red tie, and patent feathers
throws down his hat in disgust and
says Oh hang it !; why can't 1 look
like other folks"
These are the mistakes that both
men ard women are constantly making
We might have worn all of these things
Except patent leathers--no gentleman
wears patent leathers) at the proper
time and with the proper occasions.
But if a gentleman wears a check or
an infnitessimal stripe he wears a suit
Of it, and only then for morning or
business dress or upon race course
He does not venture pattern trousers
and black except at the risk of his re-
putatlOn.
Saratoga was never more lovely than
now. The weather has not been too
warm for enjoyment, yet it has been
SO to admit of living out of
iocrs after the manner of watering
places. The races have greatly in
the number of visitors and
the hotels which previously
we're not filled to their utmost capa-
.ity.
A great many cottages and handsome
private residences have been built in |
II near Saratoga recently, and the |
for four miles around, is be- |
ng rapidly bought up for this purpose,
% that its Summer population is by no |
means confined, as formerly, to the |
at hotels and private houses. |