Wilmington journal., 1873-11-07

sent.
The antique sleeve or sleeve coming
below the elbow. would naturally
accompany the square bod'!ice, and Is
the most suitable, because highly sns-
ccptible Of graceful and varied mo.liii-
cation. The simplest form Is shaped
to the arm, with deep rntlies below the
elbow. But sleeves and RIFLES may
be longer or shorter, full or scant ;
they may resolve themselves into
pleatings or the material, with lace or
muslin beneath; or a deep marlulse
cuff may be turned M over the elbow
and the top slashed, revealing pulling
of lace or muslin beneath, rs may be
seen in some rich toilettes this season.
In fact the square bodice and
dcmi-long sleeves never go quite out,
tEev possess so much of grace and dis
tinction in themselves, and admit of
SO much that is becoming in the way
OF earniture, that women Of resources
and culture perpetually fall back upon
some variation of this style to give
expression to the see-saw variety Of
| dress destitute of ideas.
OUTDOOR GARMENTS.
There is absolutely nothing new in
outdoor garments, with the exception
| of some variation in English cloth
iackets-a change which was alluded
| to in my last letter. Recent designs
| all partake, more or less, of the coat
form. Tho jackets have tails or
lappels, rolling collars, breast and
side-pockets. French jackets are of
fine. smooth broadcloth, the seams and
edges piped with colored silk. the
buttons metal and medium in size
but English jackets. par ctceltencc,
are of genuine at-cioths-heavy dl-
agonals through to the thick, rich
freize, which has facings of velvet and
buttons of immense size.
Setting aside the fanciful features,
which are a concession to the pre-
sumed feminine passion for the fan
tastic, the introduction and general
adoption of substantial outdoor gar
ments is really a matter for cfngratula-
ton. Many of them are perfectly
plain, except binding and buttons, and
most of them are made by Ge1 imam
tailors and have the close cut and
neatness of finish peculiar to good
tailor's work.
The price varies from fifteen to
| thirtv-five dollars-the Irish frieze
| iackets-the latest, and considered the
most stylish-costing thirty. Dolmans
and polonaises, covered with embroi-
derv. pale before these launty cloth
coats and jackets, which are voted
"stylish." and which have the merit
of being comfortable and arearabtc,
and of not exhausting the exchequer.
Somehow there is decline in al the
high-priced garments-the rage for
rough cloth fabrics has made even
velvet less desirable and, coupled with
the general depression, greatly reduced
the demand for velvet suits and polo
naises, even among those who only
s'feel dressed in silk or velvet.
Street polonaises OF cloth or serge,
are cut like coats and jackets, with
tails at the back, turned up like mill
tary lappels, with velvet, anu orna-
mented with buttons. This gives
them the appearance OF jacket and
over-skirt at the back and long Ulster
coats in front, The double-breasted
designs, with two rows of buttons.
are the favorites for late Fall and
| Winter wear, and look the comfort
which they impart on a raw, cold day,
Some winter Polish coats are shewn
trimmed with narrow fur bands, but
they are not elegant unless the fur idea
is carried out in the costume, and hat.
boots and muff are trimmed to match.
Trimming, moreover, of any kind, ls
under cloud; ladies are tired of 1T,
and welcome heartily the indications
of more useful and sensible methods.
The Empress mantle, or sacquc with
sleeves and cape, is still in vogue, and
is made III very handsome black cloth,
trimmed with bias bands OF Aioirc and
passim enteric met.aEons. 1t is liked
by young married ladies who consider
the jacket too youthful, who want
something warmer than redinSotc
and do not care to 90 to the expense oi
a seal skin aacque or a velvet cloak.
WINTER HATS A,1D Eo,sE-ETH.
The STYLES OF these are quite tleter-
nliped, if they can he said To be so in
the face Of an uEGEampIed variety III
shape and design. Materials and trina
all the bonnets, and many Of the hats,
are composed cf dark or black velvet,
with lighter shades Of the same or IL
contrasting color, intcrmingled in The
trimming. 4 group of partly cO!or.ed
roses, low down on one side, n long
plume or ostrich tips with aigrcttn, tie
former shaded Ill coiors, Jet bandeau
! or handsome steel, old silver, or pearl
ornament, are common to almost all
shapes and designs.
One OF the favorite shapes in bon
nets IS La BonnC Etnai5ae; it is SIM
ply the Normandy cap in a subdued
form, made in black velvet, and trim
med with lace, jet, pink feathers and
tea roses. There is little lace and
ribbon quilting under the brim, and it
IS altogether very neat and pretty.
Hats are trimmed with many colors,
and shades of color, except the very
new styles, supplied TO ladies by fash
lonable (mens; hat stores. These
were first intended for riding hats. but
they are found SO becoming, and pos
sess SO much style and distinction,
that young married and unmarried
ladies are using them for the
street. They are both high and square
crowded, in all the dark shades of felt,
and also in black beaver, and like
mons hats, are finished with simple
| band around the crown, only it is
| broader and cut on the bias To this
added Il wing, an aigrette fastened with
a cut steel buckle or long ostrich
plume, and the hat is complete.
In the dark cloth shades of felt, they
are particularly adapted for wear with
cloth suits.
THE EFFECT OF THE PANIC.
The effect Of the financial crisis has
been to reduce prices, and stop the de-
mahd Tor articles OF mere luxury and
of very high cost. Even wealthy la
dies are only buying necessaries, until
they see how the business changes viii
affect their fathers or husbands
The purchase Of gifts for the holiday
season, which begins with many two
months before it actually arrives. is
postponed till the time they will be
wanted, and will be greatly more linn
tied than is usual Still the whole ef-
feet is healthy merchants who suffer
say so. We have been living too fast.
putting off the day of reckoning until
we fancied it would never come. Quan-
titles Of fall orders sent to Paris have
been countermanded, and others have
been paid for with money. and tears
which would have drowned the obnoy-