The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1873-10-10
Fall Fashions.
New York (oct. ~ Cor. Chicago Times.l
WALKING DRESSES.

WALKING DRESSES.
Everything is to be made close to the
figure, with nothing but natural
drapery. The dress, of whatever ma
terial, will be demi- train for house wear,
with rings and drawing strings for
hopping up when worn in the streets.
The trimming will be pleats and folds.
The form OF the hustle is changed, and
IN place of the straight projection there
is long support which gives graceful
slope from the belt to the foot and
leaves the sides smooth and clinging
The new polonaise is called after the
late Empress of the French, who still
lives in hearts Ia mode. 1t is model
OF simplicity, is cut square, and has
plain buttons.
EVENING DRESSES.
1t is early to talk about evening
dresses but they are making, and some
have been made. One that L have seen
for an ultra-fashionable lady-was q
pale pink silk, the most delicate and eX-
quisite shade conceivable. The over
skirt was something quite original and
novel in style, one side being trimmed
horizontally and the other perpendicu-
larly, giving the idea of two half
dresses. Eccentric as this may seem, it
has been much admired and will UNI
doubtedly not be the only one worn this
season.
POLONAISES AND WALKING JACKETS.
1t was expected that the polonaise or
redingote-they are not quite, but very
nearly, the same-was to go out OF
fashion. But there are garments and
garments, and this is too pretty and
shapely an overdress to be cast aside
hastily. 1t suits all figures, all ages,
all purses. The rich can wear it in vel
vet The poor can wear it Ill cheaper
material
The English walking jacket has al
ready found favor, and requires no
prophet to predict it's universal adop-
ton. 1t is wrap, easy fitting and con-
venient, trimmed with band and cuffs of
velvet or silk the same shade as the
cloth. Basques are still worn, and there
is little or no change in the styles. The
favorite has plain front, slopes over
the hips and at the back, has two long
swallow tails with bows on the ends.
FABRICS
The newest importations include
black silk and cashmeres embroidered
in silk and Jet, black for the most part,
but sometimes in lighter colors blues
and violets being used for carriage and
visiting costumes.
Soft wooden goods are largely i'm
ported. English and French serges,
cashmeres, cashmere serges, armure
clotos. drap d'ete, velour epangle, fig
ured Biarritz cloth, and satin d'Chine
ha Of
fabrics.
TRIMMINGS.
Velvet is the regulation trimming for
fall and winter suits, and nothing else is
absolutely en- regie, though few other
trimmings are permissible.
CoLoRs.
The statement made last month about
the new colors to be worn this fail has
been verified The royal color is blue,
of which there are twenty shades, from
ciel to enter, or from the lightest re-
Election of cloudless sky upon the mo-
tionless lake, to the deepest of blue
blacks. The favorite is dark, but many
prefer the medium shades.
BoNNETS AND HATS.
In millinery there is revolution. 1t
came in a night, but was none the less
thorough and complete in its victory
than if it had been the result of long
struggle. The Alpine, schutzenfest,
and every other style popular during
the twelvemonth, has either disappeared
or will be seen no more after week or
two.
The steady tendency for some time
has been toward the enlargement of the
headdress; and while there is little likeli-
hood Of ever returning to the inverted
coal-scuttle of our mothers, it is I'M
questionable that the day for postage
stamps" is over and that an era of com
mon sense is upon us. The shapes are
notifications on Il larger scale of the
round, the diadem, and the Valois. The
material is velvet, silk, velvet and silk,
gros de Suez, and satin barege. The
colors are dark for promenade and light
for evening wear. In all cases the hat
and trimmings must be of the same
color, although contrasts may be made
by using different shades. The trim
mings are plain and moderate in
amount, and consist of flowers and
wreathes in autumn tints, plumes dyed
to the color of the hat, occasionally
bunch of grapes, and here and there
beads and buckles in Jet and steel. A
fea ure of the new styles is the revival
of the old bonnet strings, of two shades
of ribbon, tied under the chin in bow
that shows the contrasting tints.
The bonnet is worn squarely on the
head-tilted neither forward nor back
ward-and thus the forelock of frieze is
shown under the front edge.