, 1873-05-18
The LATE Mr., Mill.

THE LATE Mr.. MILL.
His Home at Avignon, and the
Grave ef His Wife,. ::
---. r.
Something moro than five yea1s ago cor.
respondent Of TIE CHICAGO TRIBUNE w1i
privileged to meet the late John Stuart hlln II
his retirement at Avignon. The following letter;
describing his surroundings, In the ancient city
of the euled Popes which Was published In ou1
issue Of March %, 1868, derives new, though
sad, interest from his death: .:;.-,..
Av1aaox, Francs, Feb. q, 1ssa-
| Few American travellers pass through Bouthern
France without. seeing tha ancient City: Of
Ayignou. What with her historical fame and
the prominent place given to her In all the popu
lar guide-b books, most tourists from
the other side Of the Atlantic con-
slider themselves in duty bound to pay
| her visit. fortunately. the position Of the
"City Of tho Popes" Oh the great railway that
connects Paris with Lyons and Marseil1es, and
as yet forms the principal highway between
France and Italy, enables travellers to see what
there is to bo seen in the venerable place, With
ont sacrificing much time or money. It is es-.
pecialy at this season Of the year, when the tide
OF American voyagers moves from Paris in the
direction OF Italy and Spain, that the ordinary
deathnke quiet Of Ayignon is frequently relieved
by the appearance Of curiosity ty-hunters. In.
deed, 1t this time, hardly any southwark train
passes without leaving more or less OF these
wandering people, anxious to behold what there
is left Of her whilom grandeur
Il THE ANCIENT Av19NoN.
. Although Murray's Guide Book says " Stop by
all means and see AHgnon," Imust record it asmy
deliberate judgment that time spent upon either
the ancient or the modern attractions Of Avignon
is little better than absolutely wasted, and feel
confident that all sober-minded observers will
agree with me. OF monum entail reminiscenceso Of
the past there are but few, and most Of what re-
mains is OF an inferior order Of architectural
merit There is any quantity Of Roman ruins
within the limits OF tho city, but they are 80 far
gone that they represent nothing but shapeless
heaps Of stones, tile, and mortar. Every viHitor
mikes q bee-line for the old Palace Of the Popes,
which stands On rocky elevation in the centre
Of the city. But who is there among them that
has not felt woeful1y disappointed upon viewing
tho great, unsight1y, unsymmetrical mass OF
stone, without single feature pleasing or I'M
posing to the eye2 The sight Of this architec-
Popes we're not anxious to protract their resi-
dence at Ayignon beyond two generations.
There may be- humiliation, to the mind OF
Catholic, in the thought that the misshapen
ediace in which the heads OF his Church resided
once with all their prince1y pomR, is now de-
voted to the profane uses OF a military barrack.
But to me it appeared hardly good enough, even
for the habttation OF the red-1egged props Of Ms
poleonism: The recollection Of the past, that
the immortal Rienzi, once lay chained in one OF
its dung sons, instead Of vestlng the pa1ace with
a. certain. romantic interest, only. stamps
1t in my eyes as monument Of the
worldly and religious tyranny, Of which the go
called euceessors OF Peter have always been
niscence connected with it ia the soujourn With
in its walls Of Petrnrch, by whose intercession
the tribune Of the people" was freed from
his fettera., Besides the Pope'e. Palace, there
directed to visit. But they do not produce any
more Agreeable Impressions than the former. IN
one of them Petrarchs Laura is said to be- buried.
An old haK-destroyed bridge across the River
and solid masonry, :7as to me far more interest
ing than either palace or churches.
TIE RESIDENCE OF JOHN STUART MILL
: Striking balance between the attractive. and
repulsiye features Of Avignon, could not have
avoided answering in the negattoe, the question
whether my visit had been paying Investment
Of time, but for what follows. Some OF your
readers are probably aware that the foremost
writer and thinker Of England, and, perhaps, tho
moat philosophical and practical reformer of his
age, gpeuds large portion fof every year at
Ayignon- I refer, of course, to John Stuart MILL
whose wise and earnest advocacy OF the cause Of
the people OF the North during the late war Of |
the rebellion invests him with especial inter-
est IN the minds Of all loyal Americans. To find
Mr. Mill in this retreat, 80 far removed from the !
busy scenes Of his public career, Was the main |
purpose OF my coming. *-'N
In view Of the worldwide fame Of the dis |
hnguiahed philosopher and economist, 7 vas
justified in supposing that every man; woman,
and child IN A7ignon would know al about him,
and that would not have the least difficulty in |
discovering his abiding place. But Vainly did I |
spend some time after my arrival asking the
natives whom "a happened to meet for the resi-,
replied in the broad and almost unintelugible |
pntois Of this part OF France that they had |
nevar heard Of such = person. It WAS useless |
for me-. to d ;:,add to ny inquiries that ho
Parlisment. It only seemed. to pnzzlo |
them the 1nore, had already determined |
to apply to tho police for the deaired informa-
tion, when it occurred to me- to address the |
often-repeated question to one Of the waiters Of |
the public restaurant at which / had taken
meal. He happened; to know tho way to Mr.
Mills house., and volunteered to accompany me-; |
We walked first for aconad61ahle distance along
the public road that passes around the city, just
da aaa e tazn Gfz :" h
about quarter of mile, reached gate that led
into the ourying-ground OF the icity: Then my
guide told me that he had to return to the res-
taurant, and left me, after giving me- the necee-
sa1y directions to reach, Mr. Mills house, which
Has not far off,. :. :: -
H. :. THE cEArrEnx or Ay1avoN. :. : - !
Attracted By it's picturesque beauty, turned
for a few moments into the cemetery. / had not
galked far, when I cana upon something which
made q very solemn impression upon my mind.
Sheltered By . grove Of eyergrsans, 1 found q
square place, bordo1ed by beds of douors- In.
he centre Of 1t, enclosed by low iron rai1ing;-
:ose large aarcophagus of pure white MARBLE,
:esting on base Of the Eame beautiful material. +
1t the head OF the monument stood single c..
nellia, with exquisite white hoWers. Between,
he fower-beds and the railing small walk .ex-,
ended around, In one OF the corners Of the lot;
'ose simple stone BENCH serving a. resting-:E
2lace to the mourners. And who sleeps in this |;
'ecluded spot? On the fat top Of the sarcorhar: i
Jus read the following words :.~-
TO THE BELOVED MEMORY