Smyrna times., 1873-01-22
Rank and Raiment,

The last relic of glory is dropping from the |
masculine ralment. Until the last year or so, |
the gentleman 5 tull dress has kept ore little |
scrap OF decoration, as Il reminder OF the |
spiendors of other days, III embroidered shirt |
fronts and ornamental studs. But these we
hear, must go, for fashion now commands her
choicest cavaliers to appear at dinner or sOiree
severely simple in the plainest of bosoms, with
mother Ofpearl buttons at two for a penny.
1t only remains to condemn sleeve buttons and
make gutta-percha or eather-twist the "cor-
rect thing" for watch chains, and the manly
attire will be reduced to its ultimate expression
of painnesS, beyond which lies no further
depth, unless it he good plain sackcloth and
ashes.
Morally speaking, the innovation is we'll
enough. In "a democratic country it is right
that social usage should give as few chances as
possible for caste and class to invent badges or
insignia, or offend the self-respect Of their
more modest neighbOrs by any needless signs
of superiority. But rich toilettes are just
such signs; for ornament and splendor in dress
afford the best of chances for the display of
wealth and that artificial taste or caprice which
so often go along with it, and are supposed to
Indicate social position or refinement. Men dc
no not think much of these things, but women
= do. Augustus, with his more than modest
professional income, has yet been used to move
among the most gorgeous "swells, as wei
> dressed, and evidently as well bred man a
any in the company. He thinks his swee
u little bride amazingly tasteful and correct II
: her plain ornaments and modest toilette, ant
looks forward with certain pride to cOmparln
u her with the milltOadreSSeS at Mrs. Cr@,us
~ solree. But when poor little Jenny sees he
re pretty light silk and simple rucheS side by sid
g with Mrs Cresus' last Worth costume, OF
which the lace alone is equivalent alone t
aHS y about all Of Augustus yearly income, her heal
u sinks within her. She is classed and judged
p She sees at once that, spite OF her husband
VI manly figure and diStiHgue address, to sa
nd nothing of her own youthful grace and prett
Ia ness, there is not the slightest use in the
NC trying to pass for ''swells and she feels VII
the half angry, half-comic resentment of
50 sensible woman in a false position, that eve
we parUenue in the room has set them down
oS' first glance as only three thousand doll
!. people.
Ok In view of poor Jenny's very natur
~ modification and annoyance, we may reJOl
ne that the trouble, serious as it is, is limited
'IIe the feminine halt Of humanity. a hundred
'L two hundred years ago, Augustus would ha
Tue not merely shared her vexaton but had ju
the same to endure on his own part. The RI
VIC velvets and satins, lawns and laces, swords a
oon garters and jewels OF the finished exquis
al under the Georges of the Grand MOnarql
Uu c made correct dress impossible without mOa
ioF and good deal of it. In those days n
carried his income-returns biazoned on
, a. a. back The quiet scholar or poor artist was
~ " easily dstinguishable from the grandee a.
ou' he had worn badge or placard, like T
way conductor or Broadway advertlS
Ppy medium What vexation must have gna'
ever Ioc 1'-.a.n1i I;o,;Io,;oDSs ~ boy;Do to
lone I y, ,nI H. r"o d,v;Is ,bev were
worldly sense, one does not like to reflect;
though we smile at poor Goldsmith fussy
barrassment over his famous bloomcolC
suit, eur amusement is tempered with P
sen of pity and sympathy hy-Thc Tablet.