Northern Ohio journal. [volume] (Painesville, Ohio) 1872-1896, 1873-10-04

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THE FASHIONS.
NEW YORK. Sent 25th. 1878.

,
The new costume models imported by
an enterprising firm, at a cost of $40 in
gold apiece, serve an excellent purpose
in showing the effect of styles. The full
dress is made up in crinoline muslin
with colored trimmings, and much
better idea is gained how the fashion is
to be followed and whether it is becom-
ing than anything short of real toilet
would give. Ladies select the style
which pleases them, have their measures
taken, and patterns fitted by an expe-
rienced modiste, ready for their seam
stresses to work by at home. This is
the custom of many conservative old
families, where the ladies with every
fitting notion of dignity and style pre-
fer to superintend their own sewing
rather than to submit to the extortion-
| ate charges of regular modistes.
Among the models exhibited at late
opening, and which for convenience
sake are designated by the names of pop
nlar favorites, was the Tamberlik, a
shopping dress of prune blue ladies
cloth. Three folds of cloth, six inches
wide, the centre one of diagonal cloth,
the same shade, were the trimmings for
| the skirt. A long fias, with very wide
double pockets and wide facing of dag
| onal, took the place of side width for
the upper skirt, and the black widths
were not sewed at the belt, but caught
at the corners, and the edges lbuttoned
| along the sides of the long jockey basque
| lapel in Two festoons, which gave a suf-
| fcent puff to the tournure. The effect
| of this novel mode of looping is more
becoming than the description would
convey. The long English basque, with
round vest-like revers of diagonal, was
| finished by a bow and streamers on the
back, an appendage not long banished
and again resumed. The long, straight
sleeve ends with two folds, below which
is a close four-ineh cuff Of diagonal,
| with corded edge, turned back like the
broken corner of shirt cuff, and held
by u little steel button.
The Dauphine carriage dress, of course
with demi-train, was bordered by side
pleated fiounce, six inches wide; above
this three five-inch folds of silk, piped
on the edge, two and a half inches apart
The front width was laid in pleats from
waist to hem, crossed by the folds that
went round the skirt. The drapery at
the back was one width of silk, edged
with bias ana piped band on three
sides, but on the fourth lightly pleated
into the belt under the long English
basque, a very convenient and servica-
BILE way of making an Over-skirt as it is
easily arranged, and the silk is not cut
up, but is ready to turn into flounces the
second season, as the dress-makers dc
not scruple to urge in the name of econ.
omy. A scarf of soft twilled silk falls
from the lower edge of this oyerskirt tC
the hem of the train. The basque has
long points i'm front, and square ham.
mer-shaped lapel at the back, with
curved pocket-flaps on the side. The
neck, deeply pointed back and front, is
to be filled with velvet, closing at the
throat with q ruff of that material, and
Leap of folds of velvet may be added te
the sleeve. The style can be adapted
for evening dress by lengthening the
train, leaving the bodice low, and filling
it with puffs of tulle, while the velvet
cap serves as a short sleeve.
The Bazaine will be much more pop
ular than its ill-favored prototype, for II
imparts decided grace to any figure no
of the slin.mest sort. The train has
deep side pleating, headed by two short
gathered tlounces. Diagonal folds eros.
the side widths, which are outlined BY
an upright fold on each seam. Tht
overdrapery is like that described before
but longer, four yards of straight STUFF
being laid round the hips, folded togeth
er behind. and some of the fulnes!
drawn up above the opening to form {
small puff. This arrangement is beauti
ful in itself, and is really the simples
thing after one has a glance at it.. Tn,
edges of the long piece are lfemmet
with piping on the right side, and th'
front followed slightly to receive tn,
| aicf fhrIc nirn =,
with long scarf-like drapery behind.
is secured by safety-pins on each hip
and large rosette bow pinned on thu
border where the sides meet. They q,
not cross, but fold in smoothly, and tn,
rosette holds the lower hens togethe
below the puff, while the long ends es
cape on the train. The waist is charm
ing on round or stout figures. The cor
sage has two points, and ON slender fig
ures the fronts lap; the back is that O
an English sack, cut in two pieces will
seam down the middle of the back, bu
it fits the figure perfectly, and the lap
pets, in one with the waist, but open OF
the seam, have "a bias border of sill
which goes up each side of the seam
giving extreme narrowness to the back
The sleeve in the model is crossed will
diagonal folds from the shoulder down
but most ladies' will prefer it with only
the deep cuff ruffied on the edge. Th,
throat has The usual band and ruff, ol
for evening low pointed neck is fin
lshed with ruche. From S. Il. Taylor
Broadway. The same house import
the Persian wrappings to order, in mos
sy wool tufts and velvety white WOO
stripes an inch wide, with crimson
blue, or rOse-colored silk thread wover
between, or wide stripes or white plush
with honeycomb stripe of floss between
These are handsome for opera wraps
and cost 81 the yard to import. Tuftet
camel 's-hair or India cloth and camel's
hair cashmeres of finest quality are or
dered in choice shades-pale blue, Nil
green, Byron, or deep and dark oceaI
blue, bronze brown, and autumn-lea
shades-to be embroidered by hand, II
shaded silk and soutache, for elegan
outdoor costumes. s. d.
Michigan.
KALAMAZOO MICH, Sept. 30, 1873.
sMy home, sir Is at Kalanazoo Michi