, 1873-07-27
Climbing San Christovnl --- Tho
Wow from the Summit.

0VorfoOks tho Bon VIC pass through IN OH MooulaR
arched gateway, fast crumbling 10 docay, aud
dating back, not by dozons OF years. but by hun-
dredsl Every successive earthquake has orum-
blca little Of It's stony top and sidcs; and, as
VIC emerge from it's ruins, tho opon panapas, tho
greon-Bpringing grass, and the tho snol OF wild
brier and fragrant flowers, form very p!oasing
contrast to tho stiiling hum OF tho busy city.
Now VIC come upon D merry party Of Cailao people
enoampod in tho open field, their horses turned
out to grazo, and their luncheon Of fresh figs.
oranges, bananas, cold meats, and clarot, look
ing vory inviting, spread out in thoir uttlo can
vas-tont.
Refusing to stop and dino with them, as VIC eEe
to dino farther on, we ridc along past
OLD, pmAr1DATED uAc1ENDAB,
The walls tumbling down, the gates long since
fallon, aud oven tho very gatewaya IN ruins. A.
number OF dirty Cinnamon, and tho Peruvian
owner himself, ait On tho ricketty balcony
tho mon indolontly smoking; tho women and
thildron swinging In hammooRs, and smoklng al-
80; while the oranges drop from tho treos for want
Of gathering, and decay on tho ground, although
thoy would yield 1ne rcvenue If loaded into
baskets and sold In market. In tho corral In
front of tho house, nalcd, dirty Cholo childron,
unkompt donkeys, unfod mules, COVE, uanas, and
fowls, are mixed up with tho most rusty and
primitive OF farming md everything be-
tokens lazy disorder. In tho ton years that
have passed., nothing has changed, nothing been
repaired, nothing improved. And should you
ride by, ton years to come, you would SEQ the
same neglect, tho sn1no intolent Coolies, and
only an accumulation Of dirt and children to do
note any porceptib1o change for tho ton years.
onward march Of time. No moro progress or
civilization would be apparent thcn than now.
I,n|o - ot ct1
ranche, wlat
SCENE FoN ph1ETEnE
Tho Oriental spires and domos Of old Ca1lao;
tho long, crooked streots; tho "diatanco that
lends onchantment to tho yiow;'' tho quaint
houses !; the tall masts Of ships, thlchly dotting
tho bonutiful hnrbor; tho blue, rolling ocenn,
and lonely, ashy-huod mountains. as back-
eround in the foreground, an old wind
mill, that tosses its rough arms, and the silgery
wators Of tile River Rimao, its banks lined With
foliage; and away to tho right, as far as oyo can
SEQ, groves upon groves OF orange. banana, and
olive trees, fields Of grain and waving corn, and
vintages Of grapes.
We aro obliged frequently to ford small
streams, and VIC often arc compelled to DIVORCE
from our road to crosa these atreems, as they
rush down from tho mountains, and are used
10 irrigato the land and tho crops.
We continually pass small donkeys, laden
with grass. fruits, Hugar-cano, fre-wood, and
aealed jars Of native liquor folds In which col
cry, onions, green peas, and other vegetables arc
growing. Tho old adobe walls surrounding theao
plantations are all falling down. We pass ha-
ciendas whose immousc stono-walls, 10 and ID
feet in height, will permit only an occasional
glimpse Of wide plnntan-leaves and tho tops
Of pineapple trees, fringing tho very summit OF
tho wall, toll us Of immonso orchards and groves
OF fruit within. Grapes grow almost wild al
along tho way,-luHcious and hne especially tho
largo whito piaco grape; md wo pass whole
acres devoted to molons, which are delicious.
At length, amidst T. crowd Of yelling dogs, cry'
Ing Oholo babiaH, and lazy Cinnamon. no ride
through the old Btono gateway, and aro
WELCOMED TO v1ILE1At.
A1arge plantation at our loft :raiaes only sugar
cane. but Villegaa re- totcoa In ita oranges. The
house Though very large has rn literally nyop no1S at6
wooden aotteea, and ricletty piano boine
the adornmeuts. Immense halconies, sup
ported by pillars. of adobe, surround
The four sides Of the house, and, % 1t stands on
shipping, and looks ont even to the far-reacllne
blue CordilloraH. At tho foot OF thirteen stone
stops, go looae and tottng as nearly to pitch yot
grounds. Tho lind is cut into ridges, into whose
furrowa rushes along tho water used for irriga
tion. Tho soil lookH tho color and has tho dead
ness OF ashos yet not only orange"treos e1tent
Fob MILES AND MILES
along these burrows, but you eau wnlk under thl
branches for miles, gathering tho luscious fruit
. aud soeing tho orangos falling from the over
laden trees, landing n tho ntreams, and go nall
Ing BY II yellow sp'onor Mth IN no au one to soo
variety of rose, lily, dahlia, ca1nolia, beautiful
in bud and blosaom, are growing without care Q
nursing. Old, decrepit Chi,lan!en arc cutting
md arranging them IN lovely bouquets for mar
kot Others, III hundreds, arc picking oranges
working ~ slowly and aB lazy aH they please
Their cabins are simply four posts get III til
woven into mat which graas thoy gather them
selves aud weave into ulAtting that fo!ms q
excellent shelter, il clean and free from insects
and has q peculiarly pleasant, spicy, smel
material, and guthorcl from tile riyer-DankB.
Under natural arbor, formed by the branche
Of the orange-treoa,
WE RESTED AND IuNoNEp.
An old Clnaman brought uA quoHo (nhtiv
.heeae) aud ohicha (a formontod drink mad
from peanuts, which will iutoxloate) as hiB de
alton to our ropast, but for which he expeote
GO. ue also gathered w bouquets Of vorbt
and other flowers, atd expected tho rem
ants Of our ropast AZ Q return forthoHo favor
Ehan wo Walked for moY undor tho troos, all
!, saw tho oranges decayng all over tho ground. :
tho aamo old ooolie aproadlns mat n Tor u u
: eranKes, for which ho asked us
rial-10 contB Never woro orange
40 sweet, 30 lusciona aud fine, for oranges ho
arc winter fruit; md, aa this IL our first vii
ter-month juno they arc just IN their prime.
Leaving Villogas, we rode over to tbs imnon'
sugar-ostates Of
BAN A0UAT1N,
worked by over 400 Oooliea; and hore VIC 81
tho same untidy why's aud Incidence, neith
progress nor improvements, although We find Il
samo honpitablo welcome. Tho fortune realizt
fro1n this augar-eatato alone III immenae. Vog
- lSn~a tvifh h111f arh II
being expended upon it. This country sugges
( The primitive days, and IL Ut least half-a-ceutu
4 behind the ago. :, =,
IA ,7e leav0 tho plantation, NO ride to tho II
Ito Village OF
BELLA YIHTA
{Boautiful Vieu), sisuatsd directly upon the ss
aud having picturesque set Of rocks, q cay
and high hlQ9. down whose RtQep Bldos tho II