The New York herald., 1873-09-17
Watering Places in the South from
Pau to Bordeaux-No. IL.
ECONOMY AND HEALTH.


mas lelt IL, though he has not too much money to
throw away In travelling. The people here speak
kindly OF him, and, indeed, he is an amiable, unas
suming man, much given to his prayer book. His
wife Is heroine or rather an unusual type
prompt, bold and determined II she could have
had her way shel would not have been walking
about Pau all last winter looking YEARLY at her
husband and the unnavlgable River Gave, with no
follower but large dog. They are honest folks
alter all the abuse which has been lavished on
them.
The King left nearly $250O0,O0o behind him
at Naples, because he could not agree with his
conscience to touch Ira Of 1t; and when he
marched out OF his palace, with half q dozen gen.
tlemen, mostly bought and sold. to Gaeta, His ex-
Majesty took nothing with him but his honor to
meet his royal brother, Victor Emmanuel, and We
oil know how the struggle ended.
There appears to be nothing to do OF Pau Just
now. The townspeople stand at their shop doors
and bake themselves slowly in the sun. Crowds OF
travellers were arriving and depaI ting. The en-
trance ofthe Hotel de France was choked with their
luggage, and their nurses and children swarmed
over the staircases. The dinner table was loaded
with flowers such as would be out Of the reach of
anyone but bull or bear in Paris, and the dinner
was served by German walters. The French seem
already to have blown or the first burst OF their
anger against their conquerors, and Germans are
as numerous as ever at hotels. The Frenchman
makes q bad servant, the German makes good
early and late; nothing viii induce the Frenchman
to do SO. There are no places OF amusement Mt Pau
In the summer-nO theatre, no music, nothing but
NIB. TCKNOR's FOUR-IN-HAND.
Mr.. Ticknor Is an American gentleman who
resides In the neghborhoOd and Is good Judge
of horsefesh. He had an admirable team OF four
blood bays; but when saw his French cOachman
drive them out OF an inn yard, all OF heap, and
bring them into the street with their splinter bars
hapUinU ahOut their hOcka I COuld hnlD think
Ing that 1t would have been better II Mr.. f1cknor
had handled the ribbons himself, for he, believe,
can do it in O workmanlike manner.
Pau has got an "English club" under the patron
age OF local banker; and the English club is try
TO get Sp @ cap ot e money 81 tHs
circumstances does not seem to be forthcoming,
and there was q pitul list OF subscribers who had
not paid up. hear that the place is full of silver
fork squabbes and that the British extles who
have retired there for peace and pleasure do moth
ing but fight and scold. The very newspapers at Pau
cannot live without a row, and read two or them
filled with ferocious attacks upon each other
about nothing Yet what masters In the craft OF
Is amusing, 1t is so full of fancy and epigrams One
always feels fatigued after reading an English
the Figaro or the Gaulois AS Tor news, those who
can read between the lines get more out OF half
column by villemessant or st. Genest than can be
found In dozen ponderous leading articles OF the
Times. What the public wants IN newspaper Is
something that will tell IT the truth at glance,
and give II afterwards, when 1t is at LEISURE some
solid stun for private-pel haps very prvate-read-
ing. with respect to the Parliam entary speeches,
the pith Of them is best summed up IN Joke. That
any human being. The thing to know Is what they
mean.
Ibegin to notice. at the toble dh0te dinner at Pau,
o new kind OF bagman whose existence there has
peen reason to suspect for some time. He Is the
for business. TWO OF them sat near me. They
were ready to lend money on crops and on houses
in good situations near the town, taking long
view OF things, and being OF opinion that, as the
earth Is gradually getting colder, warm climate
car fellows and one OF them took out his notebook
over his soup, and began to dot and carrv one upon
1t. The waters paid them much respect, for they
talked loud and wore high shirt collars Indeed, 1t
Is beautiful thing to observe the shark, out Of his
own waters, where he is not known, and
@ whale with % possibilities Nref'I Of oil and profit
in him.. BY the way what an astonishing
trade that is Of the British banker and his
confidential clerk, when one comes to think OF
1t. They get hold OF their customers money on
pretence OF keeping 1t securely and they invest 1t
his customers have to pay the piper. No such pub
lie enemy as private banker prowling about after
governed country.
The most curious little creature Ihave seen about
lately Is
''THE PAU DANDY"
His fondness for tawdry cOors Is something ex-
tremely remarkable. He thinks nothing Of wear.
his breast pretence that it is pocket handker.
chief He talks loud, and makes no Ineligible
observation. He is an amazing sJrutter, but he
goes nowhither, and Is averse to work or exercise
A rude fellow too, always getting obtrusively in
other peoples way unless impelled out OF
II he and oc af raea
remember all the Southern Frenchmen l have
known abroad and at home l think how the Pau
tors, and is only as rude and as loud and as tawdry
and as useless as his Iather and grandfather were
before him. He is miracle OF false jewelry, lazi-
rnCl m
der whether Southern suns grow men as they grow
fruit and flowers hne,. bright colofed, haining
things, with little more than appearance in them.
LIVING IS CHEAP AT PAU
for persons who only wish to eat and drink and 60
to sleep. carriage may be had for franc an
hour. A bath costs fifteen cents which is cheaper
than In Belgium. Food and wine are plentiful
at low prices, and the wine is good. House
ss Sds 1ne oe 5 pace
at It's best. 1t Is Ill lighted, Ill paved, the shops
are badly supplied and close early. heard some,
there is capital breed OF light horses with good
deal OF go In then, to be bought for $24 or $50
leg OF the pyre1nees breeders take ~ II snat IN, tne
bition 70 a sportsman, nevertheless. Dull as it is
Pau Is generally chosen as the headquarters OF
English and American travellers In the Pyrennees.
IL Is convenient because the hotels post office and
railway communications are weil managed, and It
Is also the centre OF capital system OF coaching
to the baths, which cannot be got at BY the iron
road.
Bagneres-de-Lucho is the Queen OF all the
be taken inwardly and 0utwardly without danger
by persons who are really In sound health, and the
society is gay there and the amusements nume-
rOus.
Eaux.Bonnes, Bagneres-de- -Bigsrre, Eaux-
Chaudes, Cauterets and Arcachon are all really
worth an idle tourists visit The rich people
Of Toulouse and Bordeaux abound ct all
these places; but they are 100 aT on
ians, and therefore they have the peculiar I'D
vantage OF not being pestered with politics. Not
one Of these bathing places moved during any OF
the recent revolutions. The sole desire Of their
patient and amiable inhabitants Is that they may
pluck many travellers and pay few taxes. They
told me SO when interrogated with a charming abb
sence OF reserve. They are religious after
fashion, not demonstrativey religious and split up
into sects. but they are fond Of their parsons and
OF their churches.
THE PRICE OF LAND
on the banks Of the Adour where there Is the best
salmon fishing IN France, averages about $40 to
the acre. The farms In the Pyrenees are small,
and cows are used rather as beasts OF burden than
for their dairy produce. The peasants are poor
and very frugal. They grow wheat, maize and
IRA n a