The central Presbyterian. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1856-1908, 1873-04-16

greater than ever. All classes, especially
the lower orders, turned out. Thousand
were in harlequin costumes, cutting all kinds
of antics. Open carriages, dressed in th'
most absurd manner, filled with people
| dressed in like manner. There were horse!
fantastically painted, and very fine cavalry
both horses and men remarkably fine look
ing, paraded the streets, the horses pranclng
in the midst of the crowd. And the most
remarkable thing about it was, that the po
lice arrangements were so admirable not an
aeciIent occurred. The day we were out In
our hired carriage, the crowd was so dense
that it took us an hour and half to 60 up
and down once, less than mile. 1t would
be impossible to get up such scene except
where gross darkness covered the people,
At clerical breakfast the other morning
was told by several intelligent gentlemen
that, in population of 25,OOO,OOO, there
are 10, 600, 900 who could not read. These
holidays continue for ten days, during which
no work is done.
We visited yesterday the "Santa Scala,
or holy steps. No one is permitted to as
cend these steps except on their knees, and
they stop on every step to say prayer
We saw women, and children three or four
years old, laboriously toiling their way up.
These are doubtless the steps up which Lu-
ther was painfully climbing when ne began
TO doubt about the truth of Popery. Thus
this senseless custom was made an instru-
ment of introducing the great Reformation,
which has revolutionized the civilized world.
At the foot of these steps are four beautiful
statues in Italian marble. On one side are
the Saviour, and Judas about to kiss him
with treacherous lips; on the other side, the
Saviour, and man pointing his finger at
him. This is called the "Ecce Homo:
One morning l was invited to dejeuner
where 1 met thirty or forty gentlemen, most
of them preachers-both Italian and Ameri-
can pastors in Rome and other parts of lta-
ly, preaching the pure gospel in this land of
popery and ln6delty. l was glad to find
many learned Italians labOring to enlighten
the subjects of their country ia the truths
of purer religion than they had ever
known.
On Sunday 1 heard Father Gavazzi, as
many in our country have done on his late
visit to America. To those who have heard
him need not speak of the earnestness and
fervor of his glowing elOquence. | never
heard any man whose heart seemed to be sc
full of love to the "dear Saviour as he
delighted to call him. His logic, where his
premises were sound, was inexorable.
could not assent to all of his theology, OF
metaphysics, but he holds the fundamental
AtrathE Of she gospel, and presents them with
great power.
On Monday, the 24th, we left Rome for
Naples, passing through country of varied
beauty and picturesque scenery. For two
hours we were on the broad and beautiful
Campagna, almost level, and very fertile,
cultivated in vines and fruits with green
wheat between the rows, and many wide
wheat fields. 1t was remarkable that all the
culture that was going on was done with
spades, by both men and women. As we
approached the mountains, and on the noun
tain sides, were extensive groves of olive
trees. We passed in view of FreScati, run
ming no the side of the mountain, and Capua,
crowning hill which sloped gradually to
the plain below. There were many smaller
villages, some of them romantically situated
on the sides and tops of the mountains
The snow on the high and precipitous noun
tains, some of them solid masses of rock
for miles, contrasted strangely with green
and beautiful valleys lying at their feet.
Naples. l have hurried through the jour.
ney from Rome without mention of the
famous monastery of Casino, perched upon
the top of a high mountain, that might
get to this beautiful city with its population
of half million-with its surroundings
perhaps the most beautiful city in Europe.
From our windows we look out on irregular
chains of mountains, springing right out Of
the bay. On one side, across the bay, is a
range of high mountains, skirted on the bay
shore by long range of cottages Of differ
ent names, but all united on this side. The
bay, opening into the Mediterranean is, Of
necessity, place of great commerce and
great wealth.
This morning we passed through Toledo
street, fanked on each side by as fne blocks
of buildings as are found in New York Ol
Chicago. The stree: is broad and smoothly
paved with stones of lava. Ascending {
high hill, we reached the palace "Capellc
Monte" drove through its extensive anc
beautiful park, SURPRISING anything we nave
seen. 1t contains among other things
an ayiary of rare and beautiful birds, sucl
as white pheasantS, and bird very mucl
resembling the bird of paradise, the mos
beautiful peacocks 1 ever saw, and man!
others.
From this palace is a fine view of tn
city of Vesuvius and the chain of mountain
of which it forms part. This was enougl
for one morning. In the afternoon we drOy,