National Republican., 1873-12-02
THE FASHIONS.
WHAT TO WEAR AND HOW TO WEAR 1T.
Simplicity In Street Costumes Collars and
Cufs-sLIrt TrimmiuGs-winter Rcdis-
sofes-Fashicn In Furs-Drcsse- for Re-:
reptfous.


| ccptions. ...... .
fFrom our own Correspondent ~
NKw YoRx, December !. is7a
The effect Of the financial crash, Of which
people thought and spoke so lightly month
ago, Is now being felt In some degree In al
most every home circle. Il Ia positively the
fashion among such people 10 say, III am so
poor this winteri" and the Flora McFlimseys
make public boost Of their empty wardrobcs.
Reckless extravaganza IL at an end for the
prcsent-it may be foreyer-and the women
Of most substantial families arc preaching
economy, retrohcbing not only in luxurics,
but In what they had hitherto thought neces-
stiles, anxiously watching when and how the
lightning will strike their husbands or fathers.
To meet this state OF affairs, reduction n
prices Is tho order Of the day at all the stores,
from Stewards aud Clanln's down TO the
smallest shop, and In response women bewail
that they have so little money when goods
are so cheap. And II IA a trial that purses
should be empty when French meriuoes arc
selling ut 80 cents q yard, cashmere at one
dollar, empress cloths at 37lI cents, and
lovely prints for nlnc or ten cents yard.
MdterJdmilids thinks 1t all over with sigh,
abstemlously turns her back on such entlclng
bargains, investigates last winters wardrobe
and addresses herself to the task Of making
old clothes look "malst as wcel as new"
STREET COSTUMES.
One sclf-evldont fact, which may or may
not be the result Of the hard times, Is thnt
simplicity has become stylish and plainnoss
Is considered the perfection Of street dress.
Ladies' Of taste no longer appear upon the
promenade arrayed In fiounces aud furbelows,
annrnuriata N IN full droaa ht,s has
at once adopted the short clinglng skirts aud
long simply shaped overdrcsses sent over
FROM Paris. As q model for tasteful suits
take one that appears and reappears on
Fifth avenue. II Is composed Of camels hair
and silk Of dark (almost lnvislble) leaf brown.
The silk skirt-narrow, round aud just oscap-
Ing the ground, Is trimmed with two rows
OF side .pleatlng placed quite apart, each
headed by corded bias band. The polo
naiso OF cameIs hair Of tho same shade ls
almost as long as the dress skirt, hangs
squarely and smoothly without wrinkle on
sides or front, and Is draped far back Ia
volumiuous and indscribablc manner. The
pockets have flaps aud arc placed behind
according 70 the newest fancy.
The English collar, tiny cuffs OF the tight
sleeves, aud the facing on the edge are OF
brown silk, aud the buttons down the front
are OF smoked pearl, almost rs handsome a.
opals, prettily carved, aud not vulgarly large,
as was lately tho fashion. A brown felt
Dlrectoire hat, with curling plumes and
deep red rose, worn with admirable chic far
back on the head, complete this appropriate
costume. A novelty this winter consists In
mixing materials Ia such way that IL Is DIFF
hcult TO decide Of which the costume Is really
made. For instance, q silk skirt Is almost |
covered with plcatiogs Of silk headed by folds |
OF camels hair. or else bands Of camel's hair |
corded with silk; apolouaise Of camel's hair |
accompanies this, or the polonaisc may be |
replaced by au overskirt and jacket. orua- |
mented with rcvers aud cuffs OF silk and |
smoked pearl or steel buttons. A lovely |
Partisan costume of contrasting colors Is /
worn by the bswitching prima donna Lucca.
II Is Of dark plum-colorcd silk and light grey |
caInel's hair.
The silk skirt Is trimmed with two scaut,
wide-gathercd founces each edged with a
narrow ruffle. The camcl's hair oyersklrt Is /
open at the back, one side hanging straight |
and square while the other Is very gracefully |
draped; around this Is two-lnch border OF /
plum silk. The wrap is an English walking.
Jacket, Of camels hair. neatly flushed with a
low, square crown and dropping brim, caught |
up on Que side, is trimmed with broad fold |
OF plum silk drawn through plain steel hoops, |
while two gray ostrich tips fall from the right |
side over the crown. The lingerie now worn |
with street costumes Is plain linen In Eoglisn |
Styles ratueI tuan tne elaOOrute run, wnlcn Il
is preferred for full dress.
For ladies whose means will permit them |
lavish Indulgence, velvet and canel's hair are |
combined for carriage and visiting toilettcs.
Eutiro suits OF velvet trimmed with fur, are 4
also objects OF desire with fashionable ma |
irons.
Fur trimming will also 10 used on cloth |
costumes, and Is, indeed, appropriate for all |
drcssy midwinter suits. For the million, |
whose purses will not buy these costly habits, |
there arc all-wool serges, cashmercs dc bego,
limitations OF woogne, and merlnos In all the |
dark stylish colors. These make very neat |
and pretty suits, but II must be remembered |
that they are not TO be trimmed as rich silks |
are, for when they arc laden with garnlture |
the effect Is tawdry and the garment loo heavy |
for comfort. The choice Of the season In such |
suits is dark blue serge, made with two or |
three folds on the skirt and long polonaise, |
and clinging to the figure.
INDEPENDENT PoLosAIsEs.
Polonaises, or redingotes, (for really there |
Is little difference between them, since they |
are now both made tight-itting) are provided |
for winter In heavy cloth, such as water |
proof, aud light qualities Of drab frelze. They |
are so conveniently made and comfortable. |
looking that they have become popular and |
arc universally adopted for morning shop |
ping.
DoLMANs. |
Seal skin sacques will prob ,bly be the most |
fashionable winter cloaks, but do not Infer |
from this that the graceful, stylish dolman |
has lost Its prestige. For the cold clustering |
days Of December long ample dolmaus made |
Of heavy diagonal cloth bordercd with fur |
will be comfortable and elegant. Velvet |
tolmaps edged with lace and jet and lined |
throughout with fur are most distinguished |
looking garments. English walking Jackets |
are now made Of velvet. They are very warm |
and eau be worn with any costume, but are |
more especially used with velvet polonaiscs |
when greater warmth Is necessary.
FURs.
The approach of winter is heralded by tho |
appearance OF great quantities of furs ex- |
hlblted In the stores. Furs are not purchased |
every day and therefore some Judgment and |
Is required before committing |
oneself to tho payment Of large sums Of
money.
The fashionable set OF furs this season con- |
slsts Of muG and q boa. Mufs are lined |
with heavy twlled silk and bows of pros-