Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1873-05-01


sp22 cod till may5 1stp
or WOODEN faced, in silver grey, fawn or
mouse color, the round skirt with two
gathered flounces, each headed by one band
of the same, corded with satin, the round
upper skirt with three bands of the same
sort. and looped high very far back at the
sides, basque with sharp square lapels open
on the hips, deep square flaring cuffs, and
small shoulder cape falling open in front,
moderately pointed; this and the basque
finished by satin roleaux on the extreme
edge, and three farther from it, like the
skirt trimming, with or without the
bands. With this Is worn a Raphael hat
faced in corded silk or velvet, with gulPs
wing on the left and plume curling on the
crown and dropping behind
The stripped gray silks are always SER
viceable in spring, and form lady-like COS
TUNES; but there is sometimes a difficulty
to know how to make them seem stylish
and modest at the same time. The mode
this season is to make them with alter
nate hounces of black silk, but this is Tot
happy style, rather too conspicuous the
length of the street. A prettier design is
skirt escaping the ground, with one bias
gathered flounce, 13 inches deep, edged and
headed with two inch velvet, which msy be
cut; or ribbon, black, or which is more del
icate, gray or lavender. With this tight
polonaise of the silk, with plain border Of
velvet, narrow vest of plain velvet applied
and buttoniDs in front, strap, one and three
quarter inches wide, passing over the
ooIlor hahfnI a nd ay1h-
ing on the seam of the polonaise below the
waist i'll front. The polonaise IS lOoped be-
hind with fur, or silk edged with velvet,
falling over the puffs. The sleeve is very
long with plain cuff OF velvet pointed over
the hand. White straw bonnet, trimmed
with twist of the same velvet and Cry
silk, relieved by old silver ornaments r
small flowers, hawthorne, honeysuckle, or
corn blossoms.
a model for plain costume may be OF
any fine, wool twill, serge, cashmere, or
even of the silky sicilienne, with slightly
sweeping skirt, trimmed by fold OF bias
silk a finger deep or more, eight inches
above the edge, with small band of heavy
rep silk for heading, and two similar bands
above it at equal distances apart. The diff
ference between bands and folds must be
noted here, the fold being laid over stiff
lining; and the lower edge not caught to the
drop: while the bands are blind-stitched fiat.
A round upper skirt and dolran JACKIE, Of
the material, have the same trimming in
graduated widths.
TRIMMINGS.
Trimmings are new and charming. The
buckles of pearl and old silver to hold tie
large bows of more and velvet which give
such an air to dresses; yak and guipure OF
many shades and prices, from twenty cents
to three dollars and half, in new designs
of compass; and rose and star
pattern or Moorish filsgreeiwith much filling
of the beautiful picOt stitch, and floss en-
broideries in shades outlined with silver
thread, sometimes are seen on imported
dresses. Guipure and yak are used in new
fashion as insertion with beautiful effect.
The lace is sewed on the border, the cloth
cut away beneath au1 the edges bound,
leaving an extremely airy and graceful M
| ish. The new cashmere and camel's hair
wraps are extensively trimmed in this way.
| Not only the straight edged insertion proper,
but wide, scslloped lace, is put on this fash
ion, another row finishing the edge. Gut
| pure is let in all the seams Of tight Prln-
cess polonaise, making a most fauctful gar
ment. Upwards OF SO yards of wide yak
| or guipule are used on one polons1se, haV'
| ing eight lengthwise insertions on the hg-
ure, and two rows of insertion on the lower
| edge beside the border. Fringes are of tne
| twist, as thickly made as fine, or equally
| fine crimped sewing silk with beautiful fan
| cy net headings. Soutache embroidery
| takes The place of passimeuterie to great
degree, though Soutsche looks so like pas
simenterie that one hardly knows the dill
ference. Again, many fringes are tied on
the garments. Much fine jet and bead EN-
bro:dery of filed patterns is seen on eve
| ming dresses. Light marabout borders IL
natural gray, look like, silver fur on rlcf
dresses, till breath of air makes them fly
open like captive mist.
POLoNAIsEs, BAsQUEs, ETC.
The close-6tting long polonaise, drapet
each side of the tournure, is the most grace
full, and therefore the preferred carmen
of the season. Basques have become
much prettier than they were, but they
will not catch the eye that has once seel
the slim charm of the pOlonaise. BY the
Uay, the name of this garment is not pro
nounced as many people inficS us by say
ing, polOndy. French accent oecasionall!
gives a fi0aI syllable its due force. Tht
longer basque, the jacket with heart-shaped
open neck, fitting tightly, but cut away 81
that it only clasps at single point ON th'
bosom over an embroidered vest Of slcll
ienne, and forming close jacket waist be
hind, are variations dear to dressy minds
The slender French msntlets of black cash
mere and sicilienne, folding across tht
front. fchu fashion, are dainty with rlct
guipure insertions and borders, and with
inv hood-like kerchief Of silk is at tn
throat of some. The dolman, heavily bead
ed and embroidered, is seen once in while
but is remanded to wait for autumn
Everybody who can afford French Gamers
hair shawl buys one, especially since tn
aid of machinery has brought the price Q
shawls, choice in pattern and color, Whlc
were once $3.50, down to $50. There ar
white yak lace jackets, in elaborate gulpur
designs, which have warmth enough 10
spring DAYS as well as lghtness for sum
mer. but these are at least SIS, and ou
bellies NAV be magnificent, if they cannot b
fanciful, sometimes. SHIRLEY DARE.