, 1873-02-16
DUMAS ON COOKERY.

A very remarkable book has just appeared in
France, in tho late Alexandra Dumns' Grand
Dictionairo de Cuisine" 1t is rather singular,
genuine French gourmet, that the only posthu-
nous work Of q great aud yoluminous author
should be a treatise on cookery. To the mind
OF q stoic philosopher, there would be q grim
one side. a grave; q stomach that scarcely fur
nishes food for worms gastric juices
dried mp; taste not even reminiscenco,
and the devil Of indigestion having
deserted dead victim for new ones.
On the other side, we have the last and
most cherished relics Of this dead greatness
in running account Of such deeting gratifca-
tions as o succession of dinner-hours could fur
nish. The mora1ist might find here text for
good orthodox treatment, in which the weakness
OF the flesh would be pictured with vivid Illus
trntions. But We fear greatly that the warn
ings Of the preacher and the homiliee Of the etoc
would be lost upon society, which would turn
with good deal of relief from the wozmB and
corruption beneath the sod to the sprightly en-
ecdotes end savory dishes that the ''Grand Die
tionarie do Cuisine undoubtedly presents.
We do not know that our age generally is more
epicurean than another. Wo suspect that, like
corruption in politics, vice in society, and falla-
cies in nance. every age has ta full share Of de-
yotion to tho gastrononic art. But it is certain
that the pleasures of the stomach are asserting
themselves in this particular country OF ours
more than over before. The appreciation Of
good dinners has scaeib1y increased with tho III
crease Of wealth. H. Blot has hundred readers
and hearers for his eavory discourEes about the
joys OF good living where Alr. Dio Lewis has one
to sympathize with his system OF living on two
meals at seren cents q day,-ono OF hard
bread and the other Of lemon-wnter. Tho at
fractions Of Ia cuisine are growing upon us
as tho aggregation of city-life concentrates
wealth and rivalry. Danquets are the public
order Of tho day; dinner-partics the pot enter
tainment in society life. A monthly magazine,
called the Table, has been established in New
York, with Bril1at-Savarin for ita patron saint,
and Barry Grey for its editor, which is to dis
eeminate periodically the great truths Of gas
tronomy. Delmonco'e, the Hoffman, and tho
Brevoort, in New York, and Victors or Johns
in New Orleans, are stcadier attractions than
Trinity Church in the former city, and the old
French Cathedral in the latter. Fried
pork and apples, buckwheat cakes and
pumpkin pies. hot bread and gravy, corn-dodgers,
and whitened butter, together with the other-po~
Of early American cookery, are giving
way to the fascinating eztre7nets end tho varie-
gated desserts Of the French cuisine. It was
only few nights ago that great charity bali
and French cooks ball occurred On the same
evening in New York. The ruling comment OF
he press was in favor Of the latter, and the pub
ished bill Of fare made many mouth water and
many a mind lose itself in 7onder and adnaira-
lion.
The republication Of II. Dumas Dictionary in ]
Ibis country may therefore bo confidently ex- !
pected. The people who would be disposed to
regret it will probably never know what they had
% regret, for they will not read it. Yet, from |
The descriptions Of the volume that comes to Us !
from abroad, We should say that tbs Dictionarie
de Cuisine WAS an infinitely amusing book gen.
erally, as well as useful from gastronomic |
point OF view. It is edited BY u. Veuilemot, |
professional cook, and former crony of the elder
Dumas. 4 characteristic enecdote is told Of the
irst acquaintance of these two bons uiruus. |
Dumas rode up to Veuillemot's inn and called ]
or dish of coach-wheels, and the latter an
'wered promptly that he had nothing left in tho
'ouse but tigers outlets and serpents' tongues,
Fhich he offered to serve up in becoming style.
FOR mnn to be good cook and not bad wit
sas enough to gain access to Dumas heart. and
10 st. Cloud inn-keeper became practically the
literary executor Of the author Of 'sTho Count
i Monte Christie" and "The Three Guards