The Portland daily press., 1873-11-12
From the Englishwoman's tLondon), Magazue.l
STYLES for the Com pg Winter.

We seem launching at ono, from summer
tissues into good puIe woollen fabrics, such
as vigogne, popin and cashmere. English
serge is also al premium, both the plain
serge and that ribbed slantways, which gues
b., the name of digonae. Tins last, in any
of the dark colors now so fashionable, makes
up very nice walking costumes, which are set
o ! anu lighted up by very beautiful steel but
tons so much in vogue
This great fureur for steel buttons l am
bound to insist upon, because it is q ite likely
to last through the winter. The most beauti
iul sets of Steel buttons are those cut ia
ctttes like dlar onds, but there ale also 9TH
er styles It blush steel, the FURNISHED, of a
brown tint, and the engraved, showing a
brilliant pattern uron dull ground. The
parure of bijoux de iantaisie is made to
match with the set OF buttons. and comprises
the ear drops, ,cross or locket, an sleeve links.
Large steel BUCKLES are also worn, not at the
belt, but to fasten the large scarf bows so
fashionable in modern costumes.
Next to steel in the favor of fashion comes
jet, which, as a change, also looks extremely
well, but is, perhaps, mere suitable 10 silk
dresses. while steel look" admirable with duh
woollen fabrics. Jet. then, is vsry fashiuna-
Bile both for buttons and TOR jewels, nor are
the beautiful bijoux de fantastic OF ancient
style discarded; on the contrary, trey are al
so worn with buttons to match, and agrafles
for the belt, aud the retroussis of skirt and
tunc.
Ladies Who trembled for the fate of the
| nice and use tul polonaise may be treasured,
| for we may safely say it will be in fashion at
least through the winter. Its notifications
are as follow: 1t is made very long, almt ST as
long as the skirt behind, storter and ieIain.
| ing open in front, and but very slightly drap-
ed at the ba X. This model makes up very
| nicely in thick materials. For evening dress
another style Is adopted; it is a runc rather
than polonase, short and very fully diaped
at The back. But of this anon; We nave FIRST
TO think OF costumes for the daytime and for
| out-walking.
For walking costume ladv may choose
between polonaise and jacket bodice; but
this should be very much a queetion of fig
ule. No doubt well cut poouaie sets of
| to hest advantage a good. we'll proportion
| ed figure but then, unfortunately, every one
dues not possess Veuus-like proportions, and
the polonaise is rather too uncompr omising
tor petite, stout or rather too decidedly
mia9re figures; in such cases the jacket bod
ice offers numberless resources, and gives al
most unlimited scope TO the taste and fancy
cf ;killiu oodiste, 1t is, no doubt, for this
reason that the jacket bodice is never very
long out of fashion. it allows ri a variety of
modifica ions, which make it extremely popn-
lar. The bodice may be more or less tight fit,
may open with revers or be bu.toned all the
| way up, udNc q uOuUlc-DTtBSJeu pidSliOu VI u
discreet opening, en chale; the bI que may
be deep or short, fiat or ph aLed, round,
square Or pointed. at plr asure.
THE NEW BoNNErs.
For some seasons past have been pretty
well accustomed tU see stl ange and bizarre
Shapes proposed for female head gear, so that
l think it you'd require something veiy ex-
traoTdinary indeed in that line TO surprise
me. From a soup tureen TO the pore's mitrt
| am prepared to see anything N creator
copied a. an apology tor bonnet by auda
clOus modistes, so remained tolerably cain
upon being shown the cap OF the shah o.
Persia as the last sweet thing in chapeaux
Y shapes ol net and others of co!ored ielt ar,
, made exactly after the conformation OF thi
memorable cap. Nothing is wanted but tha
splendid diamond ai srette which excited thu
admiration aud covetousness Of the vulea
crowd. Even this, however, is, L am told
copied in brilliant jet or steel. Th
to be "a ehapeau 81 alb. for such is II
shape of IT, zone lattened at the top
name, is that ola at the back in tn
IL mas small appeDdagr ards. Thls''
shape OF fan, placed upM mt ca
presume, is meant for a curtain~S nc
scarcely Judge of this shape, as / have
YET seen 1t trimmed. Another shale is the
Ieva,.che' IL has squa. ish shape, very
much tuIDeS up in front. sloped at the sides
and t, rbed up again at the back. n is the
one which most resembles those ci the sum-
ner' put It ls higher ami squarer than former
models. Next comes the angot. Square
ciown coming down s.optng in front, so as to
Iorm sort OF visor, and with a rounded.
tulned-up curtaiI behind. And lastly, the
eapellne shape, which is very different from
me Others, as the crown is low and fat.
while the border is first followed cut and
tien turned up in front, like those Of ,he
Leshorn hats of the latter part of the sum-
her. benlnd there is sort OF raised curtain
fcrming three large hollow pleats.
such are the most strikingly new shapes
Tor the winter. and The Angot seems likely
10 be the most favored by fashion. 1t is
trimmed with mixture of velvet and moire
or SroS-srain ribbon. aigrettes al d buckles of
brilliant steel or jet, and shaded feathers.
Wreaths OF beautifully tinted leaves are fire.
quently placed round the crown; as for
flowers, they are placed in clusters, or ese
singiy when very large.