Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-05-10

BY PIERRE BLOT.

Hay MARKETING.
By PIERRE BLOT.
This month Is the most favored of the year
foI new and tender vegetables, a. the list below
Fruits are not plentiful yet, but the few kinds
that are In season are most excellent.
FISH.
Sea bass, tack-nsh, haiisut, kins6sh, lam
etss. eslmer, soup, sAad, shseP's head; stur..
gsos, treuf, turbot, weak- hses and frogs and
81 sHELrrprsH q
Lebstdrs, pravns, cTat-6sh, crabs.
NEAT.
Beef, veal, mutton, spring lamb, kid.
Chickens, capona, spring chickens, turkeys
d1cklings.
Rrand- goose, black duck, curlew, lapwing,
brown lark, plover, faii, snipe. 9-------
VEGETABLES.
Asparagus, Bermuda potatoes, Bermuda
o. IONS, NV eabbAges, young beets, caulfowers,
cheTvil, chives, cucumbers, dandelion, dock,
Limas, mint. nasturtium. peas, pepper grass,
rad1shes, poke, rhubarb, purslane, sprouts,
string beans, tomafoes, water -crese, Wild chic
ao-4'-r Rrfrs. 80 rf}a- e
Bananas, gcoseberries, cherries, peaches,
pine-apples, stra wberries.
We gave last month lists of different kinds of
food that are found in the markets and TN stores
dur1h the whole year. 3D.. =. .1 s
FrwRg-There are two very different ways of
frying; one Is to have enough boiling fat TO i'm
Just enough Of It to merely cover the bottom Of
from burning. - - ..
inexperienced housekeepers or cooks often
make mistakes on that account. Thew hear or
read that such an article OF food Is excellent
fried; they try it, not knowing in which way Ii
ought to be fried, either with little or much fat,
ard Just as often spoil the article as cook 1t
well.
To guard our readers from mistakes of this
kind, We shall call frying with much fat (when
real name for it, and we shall cali frying with
little fat (when there is only enough Of it to
merely cover the bottom Of the PAM to saute,
which is its French and right name. there being
no corresponding word to 1t in English. For in
stance, small fish are fried but an omelet is
saute; potatoes are fried, but parsnips are
saute.
How to Fry.-If there is not enough fat in the
pan to completely immense the objects fried,
they will certainly taste greasy. 1t will be the
same II the fat is not heated enough. Fat is
heated enough when jets of smoke Ooze out of
it, or when, on throwing drops Of water into. it,
a cracking noise is heard.
When the fat is hot enough, the article that is
to be fried Is dropped into It, and stirred gently
Is taken of the pan with the skinner, and
turned into colander, which should rest on a
dish OF bowl to receive the fat that may drop.
If the article to be fried be tender and some
what brittle, 1t Is put in q wire basket made for
that purpose, and the basket is placed in the
fat When done, the basket is raised, held over
the pan for a few seconds to allow the fat TO
drop, and the articles fried are carefully taken
out Of 1t, and served, after having been
sprinkled with salt.
If the article to be fried is not completely i'm
mersed in the fat, the part not immersed will
absorb fat and, as stated above, will taste
greasy; but when there is fat enough to entire
~ cover them, the intensity of the heat closes
t me pores (carbonizes them, as it were,) and no
Fat (be it beef, suet lard or oily can be
heated to degree three times higher than
water.
It Is no more expensive to have plenty of fat
than to have only a little; for, a. soon as thu
articles are taken off the fat, the pan is pun
away to cool for few minutes, then the fat is
poured into stone jar, gently, 80 as to retain
what particles of solid matter may be on the
bottom Of the pan, and is kept for another time
After having used the fat several times it NAV
turn somewhat dark; few slices of bread
dried In the oven may then be put into it and
boiled gently for about twenty minutes; the
whole Is then turned into another pan, with
about as much water; two or three boils are
given, it is suffered to cool, and the fat is skim
med off from the surface, when all the parti-
cles that may have been in it will be found i'm
the bottom, In the water. The everyday fat
coming from skimming, trimming, etc, as ex-
planned before, is added to this, so that there is
at all times fat enough in well-kept kitchen
for frying purposes.
ways to saute, because in sauteing the fat is alb
sorbed. and butter has a much more delicate
flavor than any other fat, except chicken,
5s are
CdTs Brain, Fried.-The brain is put in cold
water and q few drops Of vinegar for two or
three hours before cooking; then the thin skins
four or six slices, according to size; each slice
is dipped in batter and fried. The batter is
composed Of two yolks Of eggs two tablespoon
enough to make the mixture rather thin; then
the whites OF the eggs are beaten to stiff froth
With an egg-beater and well mixed with the
rest; MIX may be used instead Of water, ac-
.Braias win Brown BuHer.-when the brain is
cleaned a. above, put It in pan with cold
water, . wine lassful Of vinegar, a few whole
from four to six minutes, according to size .e
take 1t of carefully with q skinner, split each
half In two lengthwise, and place the slices on
q warm dish; turn brown butter eli over, put
the stalks OF fried parsley around, and serve
quickly.
Calls brain is quite relish for invalds.
Calf's Head.-When you buy Calls head zee
lengthwise by tlse butcher. When In the kitch-
en-, remove tie two halves Of the brain without
breaking them, and also the tongue. See that
no hair \. have been left on the skin, especially
trils. Put it in cold water for few hours, and
clean and wash It well. Put the head and
tongue INTO q good-sizcd saucepan, with cold
water, half gill Of vinegar, two onions and
two carrots quartered two cloves two bay leaves,
few stalks Of parsley, pinch Of thyme, and
teaspo0nful OF whole peppers. Simmer for
two hours and a half If small, for three hours
II Of middling size, and for three hours and q
half II large. 1t Ii then taken from the fire. and
left In the liquor until used; being gelantinous,
1t gets dry and hard IL exposed 70 the atmOs-
pheric air for any length Of time.
Head for Breakfast.-The head Is taken out of
the water when cold, b0ned, and cut in small
pieces or indice, and put in q dish, then beat
together in bowl about teaspoonful of chop.
ped parsley, salt, pepper, oil, mustard and VIM
egar; turn over the pieces of head, and 1t s
ready. An onion or shallot, chopped fine, may
be added to the mixture, IL liked. When for
breakfast 1t is generally cooked the day before.
A small family can easily have dish for dinner
and one for breakfast out Of calls head, be-
sides the brain and tongue.
For Dss.er.-when cooked as above, put the
head In cold water to cool, and while cooling
cook tablespoonful Of -four with about the
same Of butter, then add water or BROTH give
one boil add add also chopped picked cuc1m-
beers, salt, and pepper, and simmer the whole
about ten minutes. Put IN the mixture two
yOks of hard boiled eggs, whole, also the whites
and give one boil Cut the head in pieces put
them In the mixture, keep about ten minutes on
the corner Of the range, and 1t is ready. It
must not be allowed to boil when the head is in.
The tongue may be put with the head.
1t is also boiled, fried, and prepared in sew
eral other ways, but for the present we shall
cOnfine ourselves to the most useful and Draeti-