Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-06-02

with pure needlework alone. As to merit no
longer the appellStion of simple"
brodery is sometimes a combination Of a darker
shade with white, sometimes white and again
the darker shade alone. The cost is twenty
made, and this is surely very cheap. To
work upon them must be-for the poor opera
tves-one long starvation. - Bstiste Is a
SNOWY, adaptable, but net so firm o
durable As the plain, solid fabric. II
makes up into very light, pretty, and coo
ingly with lace of the same shade. To embroi-
der bstiste, however, seems very much like
painting the lily; il certainly adds no beauty u
delicacy, while il has the effect of drawing the
threads apart and adding degree OF weight
which, In the heatof summer, l. not ~ all de-
sirable.
Twilled linen and linen coutille are the nov
elites in linen dress materials, and they are a.
indestructible as if they were 70 be used for
what are sometimes called in England-labor-
ers "smock frocks." They are dull, canvass
bun in color, and the new, plain, dark blue
linen Is used for trimming. These costumesare
not intended for city promenading purposes
they are for the seaside, for mountain eNcur-
sions, or for camping out" which is getting to
be fashionable method Of spending a few
No need Tor suffering any more with sore,
cramped feet; women can walk their four
properly shod, and keep it up for several hours
together.
Walking boots are now made with low. broad
heels, and the sole fitted to the shape of the
loot. They are finished without bows or buckles
or fancy ornaments of any kind, and depend
wholly upon their neatness and adaptability for
are not only more comfortable for wear hut
really give the foot much better appearance
Moreover, there are hopes now that the next
generation OF women viii be able to walk with
WHITE ToILETrRs
The rage for white street toiettes r. over A
N xknr Ix-. Il.
quet and garden parties they are, of course an
pirate a. ever; but ladies of forty no Ion ger tind
mem sultaoie wear, and they will seldom be
seen upon city thoroughfares.
some white plque reding0tes are made with
black SILK or velvet collars, cuffs and buttons.
out the MODE par erceteHce is in tints and color.
anu paid, opaque white, finds little favor.
inns reyulsion was TO be expected White
toiiettes require extreme nicely In every detail
Oh me costume, are not adapted to the varied
requirements OF the street, and are especially
ABSURD when worn Dy matrOns whose ayoirIn-
pois l. not subject OF remark and whose com
pieMohs have long ceased to be a source OF
eulfylng reflection or selt-gratulation.
Oh! blessed boon of youth and health ana
FRESHNESS, mat can wear anything; that re-
lulres neither SILKS nor diamonds 10 set OF it,
char ms, that hnds a train a nuisance and rats
tails an shomination; and is more lovely in fiftv
cent muslin than in fifty dollar silk
But though white is no longer FASHIONABLE for
Tie street, IL is not banished utterly IL finds its
place indoors both for morning and evening
wear. Nalnsook II the fayorite material for
InoihiIg dresses; ana some ladies wear hardly
any other from first OF June till last OF SEN
tember. ~
The prettiest and simplest set,s.is the Prin.
cess dress, cut without lining; pleat or gather
ing in the skirt at the back; the seams marked
with fine needlework insertion. A sash of
twllIed six, three yards long, half yard wide
tne ends bordered with fringe, is draped over,
either as sash or scarf.
Another model is made with three pleated
nouhces headed with Insertion of lace or needle
work, beneath which ribbon isrun. The basque
a EDsf and - 80.
sleeves to match.
A third design is made with a Spanish fiounce
headed with insertions, the sash outlining a
po'f, which supports the basque at the back
The bodice is almost uniformly omen in front
and furnished with muslin pleatinS and lace
cmIe evening dresses are Of India null, fine
swiss, or rehtH look muslin, beautifully en-
broidered and arranged to be worn with or |
without an underdress of silk. The tunic is not |
untrequently mass of embroidery and lace
Very pretty summer ball dresses are made by |
covering somewhat passe evening silk with /
plaitings of crepe Itsse and ornamenting it with
h0wers-heartsease. carnations, and foryet-me-
nots. Small flowers. natural i'm color and size.
have quite taken the place Of the enlarged and |
faheiiully colored specimens worn last winter. |
MALE DEEssMAKING.
Ten years ago hardly an article of women's
New York, with the single exception of closks. |
1t was urged then-by the present writer-that |
IT was as practicable for much Of the clothing |!
OF women TO be furnished ready made as that of /
men, and that the time was rapidly coming |
when il would be graded, made, and sold i'm the /
same day. The prophecy has been fulfilled, |
and more. Ladies' furnishing houses do not |
stop as mems clothing stores do, at a certain |
average limit of cost and popular design: but /
go farther and vie with each other i'm the snlep-
dor Of their single toilettes. in their efforts 10
suit individual patrons.
This is the cause of enormous EXPENSE and a |
world OF trouble. Ii cOmpels them to keep a |
corps OF expensive dressmakers, whose waste of |
costly material Is something frightful. Then
there is the heavy loss upon fitted garments of /
fancafui design, which are not easily altered 4
Will only SUIT certain persons and upon which 4
are expended quantities OF costly trimming. /
All this Is a mistake. Dressmaking should ONLY
be done to order, and fitted garments of every
description should be classed with dressmakns
Keady,made Clothing should comprise, In adj
ditlon TO underclothing, skirts, skirt waists
loose-htting suits anu Costumes of linen cloth A
waterproof, and alpaca and half fitting Jackets
these graded I'm different sizes, in common par /
lance. ht everybody; and If wen and neatly |
made, with due regard to popular REQUIRE /
ments, sell faster than they can be produced. |
But by Singular fatality you will never find |
more than Cue well-cut. neatly made, suitably
trimmed ga ment out OF a hundred in anystore |
the ninety-f ne are invariably hIdeously ugly |
a'r~ ne one { 700 big or too little, or costs too
much.
Tleis is no: the case with underclothing. In /
this departm ent perfection. both for ladies aud
children, has been as neaily arrived at as can /
be expected. Not an article worn but il fur |
nished OF good material. tolorsbly well made, |
Of labor and material. This is boor to women |
such as they alone can appreciate. But the /
sooner our ;,reat Quitting establishments rid /
themselves # dressmaking, and subsde into \
their legitii ate business OF "outftters," the /
better for { smselves. JENNIE JUNE.
SUSAN d. ANTHoNr's TRIAL.-Relatiye to /
the approae aing trial Of Miss Susan b. Antho- |