The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1873-01-31

morasses Of which have spoken struck my
spurs into my horse. At first he was inclined to
dispute my authority, but having given expression
to his feelings In few vicious plunges he rushed
of at good pace. sudden turn in the track,
which passed at this point along field brought
us into very broken ground, and l had orly
time to gather up my reins when the
horse stumbled, and in spite OF my
efforts to hold him up went down head foremost
Fort unateiy had him well In hand and came
down on my feet, but before l could compietey
free myself he rolled over.
CRUSHING MY LEO BUT VERY SLIGHTLY.
| The softness OF the ground had saved both myseh
| and the horse from any serious injury, 30 TO-
| mounted and joined the guide, VINO had chahced
| to look back lust az my horse fell, out mad not
stirred one inch. when rode up he asked, in a
| nerfectly cool and unmoved manner "Hd rectbfdo
do6o p, Assured in terms equally brief that had
| not he relapsed into silence that was not broken
until he reached the outer gate OF the plantation
to which we were bound.
THE PLANTATION.
We entered without any ceremony, riding up to
large mass of buildings standing almost in the
centre OF the plantation, which extended for miles
on every side. Here we were fortunate enough to
nd all the superior officials at breakfast in the
shadow OF the great shed which protects the ma
COOL as the place is open all sides, giving the air
free passage without creating any very
perceptble draught. The usual invitation
to partake, which Is always rendered by
the Spanish race to whoever enters when they
are at their meals, having been declined
the grou nd that we had already eaten, the OBJ
ject of my visit was explained to the major doao,
! who expressed himself delighted at the chance Of
being of service. While waiting for the meal to bs
over had an excellent Oppor tunity to notice
THE DOZEN OR so OF sLAvE-DRIvERs
4 who were gathered around the table. For the
| most part they W ere vigorous semi-military look
ing men, with faces indicating sternness. With
one or two exceptions, til ere was nothing strik-
Ingy brutal in the expression Of their faces, while
| in some instances there was an open frankness
about the look that consorted badly with the,
| vile profession OF the men. They were
seated around large deal table, on
| which number OF dishes OF the country
| were placed. There was q rough plentifulness on
the board that reminded one of the feudal times.
For the most part these men were rudey clad, and
| in some cases their linen was not remarkable for
having sat down to table as they arrived from the
fields. In spite of the roughness OF their exterior.
there regned, however, among themlal the polished
| courtesy OF the old regime. 1t was amusing to
watch the phnctiious attention paid to each other
| by this somewhat rough looking group. Rugged
in feature coarse in attire, but with the innate re-
| fnement of the Latin races, which even the
| barbarous habit of thought engendered by slavery
| could not wholly eradicate; booted and spurred,
| with the formidable looking machete hanging at
| their sides, these men looked like beings called
na 70
and progress seen in the complicated machinery
| in whose shadow they were breakfastng. There
/ was something so opposed to the spirit OF liberty
and thrsting after progress and justice which dis
tinguishes the nineteenth century, in this scene
that am not sure that did not pinch myself just
to be certain that was not dreaming AS soon as
| breakfast was concluded the director OF the plan
| tatOn ordered Of the black slaves in attend
| ance to saddle his horse, and In few moments we
JOGGING THROUGH THE GROUNDS
which were divided by well laid out roads to facili-
tate the conveyance OF the cane to the mill. Our
first visit was made to the buildings used by the
what appeared to me huts, but on closer inspec-
ton they discovered to be small and unfit for
human habitation. In answer to my inquiry was
informed that these were the storehouses in which
the slaves ayes we're leo TO Keep
or eeS hst
sites occupied by pigs of various sizes and condi-
| tons These animals, was told, were .bought''
| by the plantation for the maintenance OF the en-
| ployes. As witnessed later In the day "pur-
! chaser of this nature ! am inclined to look upon
of the superintendent OF the estate called out a
woman name Almost Immediately O wretched-
tendent was standing and taking up position of
absolute subservience, with head bowed and eyes
| the superior being before whom in spirit she was
| Frustrated She had not long to wait.
A PIG WAS WANTED;
she had one ready tosbe killed; it was to be delv
cred up, and, in return, she would receive 50. The
poor creature bowed her head, mumbled an assent,
and the purchase was completed. Not far from
| those houses we came upon an open shed, on two
sides OF which were placed narrow planks on
placing number OF tin platters, each one filled
| with what appeared to me boiled maize. This,
was informed, was the breakfast OF the slaves who
| There was no sign OF spoons, and suppose the
mode OF dsposlng fthe boiled corn was the same
| hot dor nv Inn Afr lnAr
| we're busy
| DIVING INTO THE POTS IN THE KITCHEN,
when, much to their disgust and confusion, we ap-
peared on the scene. They were engaged in kick
ing up jolly row. their feast, evidently not
OF the superintendent was cast in front OF the she'd
Suddenly the noise ceased. and the little ones crept
steathily away, until the voice OF the man of
| power riveted them to the spot. An authoritative
"Ven dquf' brought few Of the young scamps to
us. The poor children looked frightfuly guilty,
a crime deserving very severe punishment so SO
! they shambled towards u.s. too much afraid not 10
come, but not at all certain Of the kind OF recep-
were fine, healthy children, aud, In spite OF the
horribly degrading influences by which they were
| surrounded bright and intelligent looking enough;
| quite as much so white chlluren under similar
circumstances would have been. There only
they already knew it by heart. 1t was not to be
good or virtuous or honest, but
| TO FEAR AND OBEY THE MASTER
| IL they would avoid the whip. There was some
thing irresisiby comic in the expression OF those
faces smeared with the corn which they had eaten
out OF their hands, for their spirits, though bent
were not yet broken by the knowledge Of their alb
| ject and hopeless condition. Dismissed by wave
OF the hand, the troop OF youngsters disappeared
with aacrity, and we pursued our way to the Sleep
| ing quarters OF the slaves. On the way the
superintendent, who was an intelligent
and apparently an open-hearted young fellow,
informed me that there were on the estate
some one hundred and fifty souls, including some
twenty children. The greater number were men,
most OF them natives OF Congo, one only being
coohc, who, contrary to the representations made
about the traffc In Asiatics was treated in every
respect in the same way as his sable companions in
| misfortune.
| THE SLEEPING QUARTER OF THE SLAVES
Is low, square structure, entered the side fac
| ing the mills by a gateway which leads to large
| courtyard or open space around which the Sleep
ing rooms are placed. 1t is onestored structure,
divided into five apartments-two small and three
! large-which were occupied In common. Noml-
| Dally the females occupied different apartments,
but as there was free ntercommunication and no