The Cecil Whig., 1873-04-12
LETTER FROM EUROPE.
NAPLES, Italy,
FEB. end, 1878.

to engage guide to show me the princi-
pal places of interest in and around the
city. On reaching the landing place at the
Custom House, l engaged a carriage to
convey me on my excursion, for which l
paid the sum of Is francs for the afternoon,
and during which time 1 visited the Royal
Palace, the Cathedral (or St. Jannarius,)
the Kings Park, and the Grotto. The
palace is a large and handsome structure,
connected by covered way to Castle
Nuovo, and situated at the west end of the
principal thorough-fare. This was the
winter residence of the King of Naples,
but since the raid of the Garabaldians, it
has been seldom used by the present reign
ing family of Victor Emanuel: the Crown
Prince and Princess being the only occu-
pants since 1860. In rambling through
the deserted rooms, number of interest
ing objects are to be seen, such as paint
ings and sculpture of the old Italian mas
ters. The rooms are richly, although
plainly furnished. The throne room, dane
ing and dining rooms, and reception, are
all large and handsome apartments, and l
thought of the many schemes concocted by
priest and king for the advancement of the
interest of mother church, and the punish
ment awarded to those who dared to op-
pose them. What tales these walls could
tell if they could speak. In one of the
rooms, kept as an Office for the king, is to
be seen handsome writing desk. in mosa-
ic, present to the king from the Italian
Parliament. 1t is of Neapolitan workman
ship. A large number Of them (being cost
ly and curious articles are shown in the
several apartments, having the same ori-
gin. In the throne room child's cot is
kept and shown: this is very curious and
handsome affair, and was likewise pres
ent from the Parliament to the Crown
Prince and Princess, on the occasion of
the birth of their eldest child. The Grotto
to me is puzzle (the history of it I receiv-
ed from my guide, was truly Nsapolitan
one,) and believed in by half of the popula-
tion. The story he told me, and which he
appeared to be much scandalized when I
made light of his tale was, that it was the
work of his Satanic Majesty. He appeared
to have great veneration or awe, don't
know which, tor he would not speak above
a whisper while / was passing through it.
The true history of it, however, is not
known. 1t was probably made by the
Cameans and Neapolitans to facilitate their
communication. 1t is about mile in
length and dug through the hill Possilpo.
The height is about 1S0 feet; the bredth
sufficient to admit two carriages to pass.
1t was enlarged under Don Pedro De Tole-
do. At present its whole length row of
lamps lights up the interior. Over the
entrance Of the Grotto are the remains of a
tomb, called Virgil's tomb. The spot
where the celebrated poet was buried is
indicated in precious manner by Olins
Donatus, grammarian of the IA century,
who says by order of Augustus, the ashes
of Virgil were transferred to Naples, his
| favorite residence on the road to Pozzuoli.
Status, poet of the 1st century, also
speaking of this tomb and the passages of
those two writers can be easily applied to
the ruin bearing his name. 1t is said that
in the centre of this monment was a sepul-
chral urn, supported by 9 small marble
columns. No trace now exists of the col
umns or urn. Its external form is that of
a tower, rendered picturesque by the ivy
and wild plants that encircle it. Within
the Grotto is a small chapel of Saint Ma
ria which was made in 1858. 1t is said to
contain some good pictures, but it is now
particularly celebrated by an image of the
Virgin Mary, placed over the high altar,
which is Of great veneration. l returned
to town and visited the cathedral church or
that of Saint Jannarius, the patron saint of
the Neapolitans. This ancient church
was built under Constantine, on the
ruins of the Temple Of Opollo, and dsdi-
Gated to Saint Restituta. In the interior
are numerous small chapels and 100 Egyp-
tian and Africa granite columns, which
decorated the Temple of Oppollo. In the
chapel of Saint Jannarius or (Carrufo,) for
it was shown to me under both names, is
seen under the high altar, in richly orna-
mented coffin, the body of the sanity
Bishop of Benevento, the protector of Ma
ples The church is covered with white
marble and adorned with Bas-relief, in the
form of arabesque. The cathedral con-
tains altars designed by father Grinaldi.
Two large columns support the architec-
ture. On the sides of the bronze dome are
statues of St. Peter and Paul, by Sennello.
The chapel contains 42 brocatello columns
of the Corinthian order, between which are
bronze statues and busts, representing the
holy protectors, and under these, in sepa-
! rate inches, are preserved the busts in sill
YER of the same saints, 81 in number; the
greater part are the works of Luinello, who
also executed the large bronze statue of St.
Jannarius, under which are deposited the
relies of the saint whose head is pre-
served in a bust. In a silver taberna-
Gle are preserved two phials of his blood,
said to have been collected bya Neapolitan
woman at the monument of his mafyrdom.
His blood, they believe, became miracu-
lousy liquid when presented to the head
of the saint. The miracle is renewed three
times year, when the blood liquiies i'm
mediately the joy of the people is bound
less; when it is delayed then lament is
incessant. Few strangers visit Naples
without paying their devours to the shrine
of the worthy son Of step-mother church,
and all have come away without having
satisfactorily solved tho priestly tricks.
A few of the sisters of mercy were at their
devotions while was in the chapel, but I
had no opportunity of judging of their age
or appearance, they being very careful to
keep themselves clear of the heretical gaze
of the foreigner. The high altar of this
chapel is beautiful piece of Workmanship;
being large block of porphyry, intersect-
ed by silver cornices or gilt bronze. In
the evening went to the Italian opera:
the acting and dressing were very good;
while the singing, especially Senorata
Luglino, was as good as ever listened to.