Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-12-20
r..n,s., for DeeemAer.

lie Eoll<f SAYS each season has it, own special
materials. Wooien makes, cashueres, or nne
plain; sicilie nne, mixture Of wool aud slk, are
now all in favor. Passementerie and fringe,
mixed with jet and beads, is stu very much
used. Iabheis are n sde entifey OF pas emen,
of by wide sash ends OF MORE. forming trim
Mrs to the skirt, and apsssementeIie trimming
TO match lie made for the bodice.
Buttons of innumerable styles are to be seen,
and, as we mentioned last month, are quite i'm
portant accessories to q toilet just now. The
robes "Princesses," without TUNES or upper
skirts, are much worn for dressy occasions. The
breadths of trained skirts are cut in unequal
lengths, ausmenting in length as they approach
the back they are quite even at the top, the bot
tom of the skirt being rounded to form the train.
The pouffs, though still worn, show q very de-
cided decrease of their former exaggerated size;
they are formed in the manner we have before
described by the back oTe adths being cut longer,
and plated or gatbere in at the side.
TUNES are very much less worn; they are,
however, still in use, made very short in front,
rather longer be hind, either dTaped at the sides
so as TO form pouff, or the two ends tied loose
ly across under 4 buckle. Poionaises, If made
of cloth. may be very plain, merely having
row of large buttons, or two rows OF smaller
buttons, to fasten them, and hem with a
double stitching all round; or they may be more
deliberately trimmed with passemeDterie in
placques, tassels, and olives. The pockets
which are so much worn, add very greatly to
the style; they are made large, and placed in
front, on the hips, or at the back. Sometimes
there are five-two In front, two behind, and a
small breast pocket.
For evening costumes silk is at present the
material most preferred; the shades of color
that have been fashionable during the last
shades, and those especially adapted for gas
light, being reserved for full dress. For ball
dress the bodice will be made low at the back,
but higher in proportion to the front. Crepe
Isle, or game frills, are considered the most
becoming. There is a softness about the shade
and texture which renders it peculiarly becom-
ing to the complexion. 1t should be, made
double or Quadruple, with ribbon placed along
the center, hiding the plaits. A similar friiI
is also worn round the cuff and up the opening
OF the sleeve. The fraise with a plastron is
a very recherche complement to q dress,
and few models of such, given in detail,
may prove useful to our readers. A fraise q
plastron of black gros de Suez, piped with
white, and fastened by jet buttons. Berthes
be made OF muslin, crossed at the waist in front,
and pointed at the back, and formed entirely of
plaits OF an equal width, close together, and
trimmed with real or imitation Valenciennes,
sewn at the edge of bouillonne, which Is lined
with band on the bias; through this bright
colored ribbon is drawn. To render the berthe
richer in appearance, q band Of embroidery may
replace the bouillonne. There are some charm
ing little gilestes composed of white faille.
Black velvet pockets are placed on the basques
in front, and small breast pocket is put on
and cords of jet and passementerie cross the
plsstron, in the style of the Hussar jacket.
For full evening toilet, lace, ribbon, and
flowers will be employed as trimmings. The
latter, we are told, will be, many of them, of
very fanciful Observation-Disclosures of the art
lists imagination; but, although not to be found
in Floras dictionary, they produce, 1t is said
very good effect under the gaslight. There is
but little change in the shape of hats and bon
nets latterly, but there is a slight difference in
the way of putting them on. They are no
longer placed so far back on the head as was
the custom to wear them during the summer.
The rage for buckles, arrows and other orna-
ments of jet and steel continues. Mother Of
pearl is also beginning to be employed in this
manner, not only for hats and bOnnets, but for
looping up tuDics. or fastening ends and bows