Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1873-10-01

There is great deal OF dissatisfaction with
imported bonnets on account Of their high
prices and the very poor quality OF the mate
Of the beautiful black thread lace, which was
formerly used in profusion, and which gave
something of real value for the prices charged.
One house only is mentioned as an exception 20
this rule, and this sends out for October wear
very graceful bonnets made of black thread
lace upon net foundation, the edges being
bound with black velvet and three curled os .
uich tips OF different shades or cOlors. or three
roses dropping ut the back, half under the lace.
GARNKNTs FOR OUTDOOR wEAE-
imported cloth garments Tor the street con-
sist OF fancy coats and jackets, such as women
nj ght wear who were masquerading as men.
They are in dark cloths in the prettiest shapes
Imaginable, the edges piped with peacock
green or blue silk, mustard colored silk or SOM
other striking shade OF which only the simple
nne above the rim is permitted. But the tail
anu lappels, the dear little vests and waiStcaats
fastened with old silver or pearl buttons are
too trilling," as young ladies say. ofor any
thing" and suggest canes, and neckties. and
manlllas, and ail the naughtiness which is sup
posed TO he SO fascinating.
There is a coat, however, which Is a much
more useful and substantial garment, aud there
are plain ble-bTeasted pOlOnaises buttoned
al the way down, and lovely paletot shaped,
but not fitted TO the form, with graceful dolinan
sleeves, which is the model for the more elegant
OF the white opera cloaks. Fewer costly ready
made dresses are exhibited by great houses this
season than have been for several seasons past
They have been taught lesson by the immense
waste and loss they have experienced in these
expensive productions, ard are bringing the
stand ard of ready-msde clothing for women
more nearly TO that of men-that Is, the supply
OF good useful ordinary suits and garments.
leaving tue supernle, as Ii should be, 20 be
finished to order. Ladies, with the exception
Of very new rich woman, or an occasional
actress, who can afford to spend five or six
hundred dollars upon a dress. do not care to
purchase one that has been on exhibition before
Mrs. Tom, Dick and Harry; has been handled
aud commented upon and criticised, as elabo-
rate dresses inevitably are in spite of the pro-
hibiton, "Do not touch.''
NOVELTIES IN LACE.
The wooden guipures OF yak laces and the in
PRODUCTION of lace as a material trimming, has
and stimulated ingenuity in its manufacture in
the very highest degree. The patterns and
combinations In woolen guipures are something
marvellous, and the hneness renders them
patterns rank exceptionally high from the
TACT that only one or two persons can man
diacture them. There are also Alsatian man
Gfaeturers OF silk lace In white aud coors, with
WOODEN edge, and top 80 artstcdiy wrought
that the beauty is heightened by the cOmbina-
ton. The special changes in design are ef
tected by plain stitch which forms admirable
outlines and the addition OF tiny raised flowers
and leaves TO simple patterns. "Garniture"
faces as they are called), which are 80 much
worn abroad are in bold oriental designs, and
are not expensive, though very effective for
costumes, robes, etc, chambIe, and day occu-
pations.
The latest thing in black yak lace is the adj
dition Of fine jet. 1t is largely used upon capes
and trimming laces, aud has been so well re-
ceiyed abroad that IL was supposed that il
would be equally welcomed here. 1t Is fifteen
years however, since A jet furore in this coun-
try, and since that time, though many attempts
have been made to revive it, none have been
successful.
What are called "pearled" lacesst a much
better chance, as they really wonderfully
wei adapted 10 certain purpOses-that is the
trimming OF light silk evening dresses, opera
cloaks, and the like. They consist of white silk
or white wooden guipure, wrought with pearls
as large as peas, and hinged with a mixture OF
the two constituent parts. They are almost too
are wonderfully well adapted TO stage and fancy
dresses.
There is a revival of lace scarfs and particu-
larl OF the graceful Spanish mantilla this sea-
son which, II is asserted, can be draped with
infinitely more grace than the long lived
"points."
English thread lace, black and white. is more
fashionable than point just now. W lille for point
lace collars there Is no demand, excepting from
very stout old ladies, whose obesity will not
admit of the fashionable ruff.
WHAT NOTs.
Large fans-by some called the Maintenon, by
some the Marie Antoinette, and BY others the
Trianon-hsye succeeded in obtaining a foot
hold, which will certainly carry them through
the winter. Somehow they agree with the pic
turesque and striking character OF the present
style OF dress; and, strange to say, they are not
nearly so embarrassing to carry and use as the
small ones. Suspended from ribbon or a chate-
laine, they hang at the side Of the dress ready
for use, and areskept in motion with the hand
resting upon the hip.
Long gloves are de TigUer, but bracelets are
hardly 70 be seen. Extravaganza in iewelry has
taken the form OF huge solid gold and silver
clasps for belts, and ma nifcent jeweled slides
for the sash and looping of the skirt.
JENNIE JUNE.