New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1873-04-21
LOCAL MISCELLANY.
DYEING AND CALICO PRINTING.

LECTURE BY PROP. c. +. CHANDLER.
The lecture of the Cooper Union Free Course on
Saturday evening was delivered by Prof. C. F.
Chandler Of Columbia College upon Dyeing and
Calico Printing, II occupied nearly two hours but
the audience seemed 10 find il 50 interesting that
few left the hall. Diagrams of the different mate
rails used in making textile fabrics, dyeing, and
calico printing machines, were thrown upon a screen
and explained by Prof. Chandler, and experiments
illustrating dyeing were made by Alfrod Paraf and
Mr.. Speer. The tables were covered with a profu-
SION OF dyestufis, raw materials calicoes and silks
illustrating the different portions of the lecture
Dyeing Inc began, IS the act Of impreghating textile
faDrcs with coloring bodies more or less permanent
The colors Themselves MATERIAL they are merely
Impressions produced upon the eye. The dyeng there
FORE II the fixing upon fabrics substances which act
upon light In different manner from the substances
themselves The art was praetced from very carly
time in the East the earliest historians spoke OF IL and
II was common TO the most primitive life as % the most
advanced stages OF civilization. Colored garments are
mentioned in the earliest records savages have become
sufficiently familiar with the art to clothe themselves
with variety Of cOlors. The Onentas for ages have
praeticed dyeing and the Chinese and japanese have
surpassed the Western nations In the bTiancy
liability of their coors Notwithstanding the antiquity
OF the art Of dyeng. tho wonderful improvements
have been made within the past 70 years by which the
old systems have been revolutOnzoo. These have not
been the result OF accident but duo 70 the works Of
chemists anu By those very chemists who are engaged
in the solution OF the highest Problems The ustrious
names are the very ones which have distinguished
themselves specially by the discovery OF new dyes which
have rapidly taken the place OF the Old materials
The textile fabrics, used in the manufacture OF our
clothing are few in NUMBER cotton fax hemp, wool.
and silk. These are all less covered or ncased
with impurities more less coOred Each Of these has
its distinctive structure and Is differently affected By
different cOOring matters. The bers distinct in
character microscopes capable Of distinguish
ing them, even when worked up together into mixed
fabrics The first operation in dyeiDg u bleaching. In
the oden times il customary 20 bleach the fabric by
exposure 70 moisture and the air. Holland had a
monopoly OF this art The linen goods manufactured in
Scotland were sent there TO be beached they then
went back 10 Scotland and sold under the name OF
Hollands But the discovery OF chlorine bleaching
agent put end TO the monopoly Of Holland Vegetable
h5ers beaohed by being exposed 20 the action
or milk Of lme and then Of diluted suiphurio acid.
washed with resinous soap, boiled with soda ash and
q solution or chloride or Ine anu nnaiy e1-
posed the action OF diluted suiphurc acld
N0Olens and silks have 70 be treated differently
In dyene, n the cOOrng matter Is one that neeus 10
m0riant, simply necessary TO npregnate the fabric
with the color. II mOrdanb Is required IL IL elller
applied previously or Is Inlhgied Win tue dye Inc
operation very simple. For producing miXei shades
one color is sometimes put upon another FOR green,
first blue can ne placed ana thei 4eIo" me process
calico printing in the Odcn time was by the Use OF hand
blocks. The mordant the alnmna or the lron was ale
pied % A6 D0cks' ana lien tAe DOchs Nero applI ~
the fabric Wherever the raised portion touched a
figure was produced. To make many ngures, II was
simply necessary 20 increase me nuogr on uucs LIE
only put the mOrfant. Then the fabric was placed
the dyestuh and the coors were brought out Block
printing gave way ana Vas Iep-ceu W VIII
copper rollers First roller Is applied ana then an
other the different mordants OF tn alumina iron,
etc. Machines are now made win ~ rollers printing
different c0Ors upon the cloth. After the goods nave
Them. the cOOr5 might run into each other Iie old
fashioned way was 10 use crying rOOn'