Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1873-11-26
H J8b sR4
NO. 2sl.1
FASHIONS.


mings of bows, loops, or rolls, which slope
to the back in very becoming manner.
Both shapes and trimmings are vast i'm
provement on the perched up styles Of last
winter.
Ostrich feathers curled in fiat rings over
quills are worn as face trimmings, or are
laid on the outside of bonnets. Some ex
qusite plumes are shaded so finely that the
work on each must be done by hand
process. which of course, renders them very
expensive For hats very long plumes start
ing from the front, crossing the crown, and
dropping over the hair in the back, are con-
sidered very elegant. Most Of the bonnets
are made with short ends and loops in the
back, the long floating ends of lace and rib
bon being but little used, although they are
not inappropriate to new shapes, and are
seen on some OF the choicest Paris models.
Making bonnet is not the siren cajoling
Of bits Of lace, feathers and velvet, that it
used to be, but is becoming a vertable art
which requires the most skillful labor. Since
pirings, folds and bindings, are given up,
very nice work is needed to give the edge
the proper finish, and the velvet must be
adjusted over the frame in the most careful
manner. Rich dark velyets are almost the
only materials used. G., Jleu, which in
.ludes all the dark shades from marine and
peasants blue'O indigo, crow browns, which
are all but black, dark bronze and puce.
myrtle, bottle and cypress greens, with
maroon and the eultana dark red, are favor
ite shades for the promenade. Light facings
and twists of the fined twiiled silk called
gros a. Orient, are used with the dark vel
vets. Gros d Orleans is HEAVIER and Amer
corded silk, and is preferred by many to the
softer twill. Gros d Suez is light glossy
millinery silk, with a flatter cord than the
above-named reps. They are all appropriate
for using with yelyets. ,.,.
The face trimmings for simple tonnets are
plated ruches OF black tulle, plain or with jet
eading or qui!lings of black thread edgings.
More elegant bonnets have gathered puffings
of colored or corded silks. Velvet plaitings
are also lined with pale silk, the plaitings
opening to show the colored centres, while
ruches of light ribbon are used to fill the
front of the bonnet which are high above the
face. iaa3 -
High coronets like tiara fronts and fancy
Jet fringes are seen on expensive carriage
bonnets, and ornaments of beaded jet like
coral sprays and skeleton leaves, are mingled
in graceful fashion with eoquil'es and .fots ot
lace.
There are some steel coronets brilliant
enough for Cinderella's prince. and wicked
looking little daggers to be thrust through
knots Of velvet, and huge buckles of diamond
cut steel, all intended for bonnet decorations
but though they are all beautiful to look at,
it will be difficult to persuade modest and
refined taste to adopt such glaring ornaments
for the street. They are only tolerable
when half hidden in knots Of velvet or waves
of lace. G aei;ss
Although becoming, face trimmings are a
min f.,at Of
The greater part of the decorations are still
massed low on one side of the back. High
comb pieces of velvet are very stylish when
the Spanish mantilla veil is draped over
them, but this styl is only suitable for full
toilet. ~ >Ha
The choicest novelties for the head are the
soft felt hats, with moderately high crowns
and broad, Hat brims, which are looped up on
one or both sides, according to fancy. " hen
looped only on one side, with an aigrette and
a single plume, the true Rubens effect is pro-
duced. These felt hats are in every color,
but some of rare, soft, pale tints, with feath-
ers that match exactly, are beautiful beyond
description.
Walking hats of felt, with high soft crowns
and rolling brims, are very much worn BY
young ladies, with an aigrette or pompon
stuck right in front, in imitation OF the cock
ade on the Shah's cap. This is, however,
only passing caprice for the demi- saison,
and is too commonly adopted to be long in
vogue. 4.4,
4 delicate evening hat from yirot's is Of
black thread lace, with rouleau of twisted
gros grain ribbon Of pc. feet wild rose tint.
passing entirely round under the bin, tied
b, hind and falling in long nds. In the plait-
ing OF Chantiliy lace which forms the diadem
little on one side. is a rose of the softest and
most exquisite shading, its old foliage glossy
and deep, its esh leaves OF pale green not
out OF their folds, aud new bud Just show
ing line OF pink through, its sheath the
whole forming wonderful copy of nature.
This bonnet, although siuply made MP, the
pale pink ribbon, the lace and the rose being
all the materials used, is iIts light ami neg
ligent grace perfect chef d'oeuyre.
A carriage bonnet of blue velvet is trimmed
with beautifully shaded plumes, which fan
gracefully over soft crown. A twist OF
gros dOrleahs is Oh the right, conhning the
end of bandeau Of shaded leaves which
pass around the crown. The bandeau is
veiled in Elnot fashion, with a rich black
Chantilly put on with the slightest possible
fulness. Long loops of ribbon fall in the
back under a piece of the finest Chantilly
lace.
In gloves, the Sandringham gauntlet is
quite new. 1t is made of handsome English
calf skin, and has Prince of Wales feather
embroidered in seed-stitch on the back of the
close cuti, which aay be fastened at the wrist
or left flowing at the pleasure of the wearer.
Driving gloves are shown in soft leather, yell
low, buff or dead white, with flowing gaunt-
lets. The miiii.r} stgaIltt is just Eow. the
favorite, with its TOP corded aud square Gu.
form.
Three button,d gloves are the usual role
for tho street, ana iour buttons are as many
as are usually becoming to the arm Tor the
evening Embroidered or wtlted wrists are
becoming too long, slim hands, and plai,
wrists are more elegant than full ones. Few
ehalky white gloves are now worn, even in
tlli dress, and there are so many delicate
nameless tints that are much prettier. There
are pearly whites and creamy tints which are
greatly preferable to the blank, staring white
The blonde flesh tints are very beautiful, but
thev can seldom be worn but once. aud pear
grays, and light straw colors will do be,tcl
service.
Noisette, or light wood colors, are the mos
suitable visiting and theatre gloves for gen
tlemen. For full dress, lavender, pale pnr
Ile and lemon colors are the standard shades
For servicesble winter gloves we recompen
/ lined kid gloves. Some are heeeed insid
with lambs wool, and others have asil
plush lining for those who find lambs woe