Perrysburg journal. (Perrysburg, Wood Co., O. [Ohio]) 186?-1965, 1873-11-28
AN ADVENTURE IN ST. PAUL'S.

-Or fOUf0 FOtfs.
AN ADVENTURE IN ST. PAUL'S.
WE colonials, on the whole, / think,
have more appreciation of st. Paul's than
of any other of the London sights. More
than of Westminster Abbey, even. For
it wants deal of history TO understand
the Abbey and its puzzling chapels; and
after certain amount of stock-driving
one jumbles up the kings and queens.
Coming over from Australia for a six
months visit to England, one of the first
things promised myself on landing was
to see st. PauPs; and yet it's a singular
fact that up to the very end of my sojourn
here had never been inside your Tor may
| say our? great cathedral.
felt it impossible to go back and face
my relations and friends if 1 couldn't say
I'd seen st. Paul's, and l made half a
dozen plans at various times of paying it
visit. But first one thing interviewed
and then another till my last day in En-
gland had come, my pilgrimage unper-
formed. This last day, however, / kept
clear of engagements on purpose to see
the place. Before | was out of bed in the
morning l had a telegram of importance,
which took me off post haste to the east
ern counties; and it was eight o'clock in
the evening before l reached Shoreditch
station on my return journey. Now, l
was bound to start early next morning to
reach Brindisi in time for the Italian
mail, and it thus seemed as if it were my
fate to miss my last chance of entering
st. Paul's Still, l was determined not to
throw away a chance; it might be that
the cathedral was still open; and picked
Lon fUuf Of
hansoms, and bade the driver put me
down in the shortest possible time at the
corner of st. Paul's churchyard.
As | descend ed from the cab and stood
on the edge of the pavement looking up
at the giant bulk of the dome, the clock
struck nine. The sun had set; but high
| overhead the golden ball and cross stood
out against the sky, still Furnished by
the evening glow. All the lower part of
the building was in deep shadow, rem
dered still darker by the thick coating of
SCOT that encased it; but the upper por-
| ton, towering clear of houses and chin
neys, and swept and sweetened by the
winds and rains, caught a CLEAN of
brightness from the clouds above, and
raised itself white and fair into the even
| ing sky.
The traffic of the day had slackened /;
|
occasional cab ratified by. The big ware
houses had retired from business; the
shops were shut; the city seemed to sleep.
Paul's also was closely fastened up. 1t
misgave me that all l should see of it
would be the outside.
Bending back my neck and gazing up
wards at the huge dome, l saw that about
the great golden cross and ball was a
tracery as of cobwebs, and men like flies
were crawling about those slender fila
ments. Stout scatfoldings and thick ca
bles they were, no doubt; but from the
street they looked like the delicate fabric
of the gossamer.
l walked quickly around the church,
hoping TO find some doorway open, some
access to the interior. The iron gates
were all closed, the doors were fast. Paul's
portals looked as inaccessible and forbid.
ding as the rocky flank of a mountain.
was determined TO find my way in, if pos
sible, but knew not how to set about il
Could have come across anything that
looked like a deanery or sarcedotal resi-
dence, should have made bold to knock
thereat and ask the occupiers for the key
But l could find nothing of the sort
Even at bun-shop, which was still open
where l inquired as to the way of getting
into the church, the people knew no more
about St. Paul's than ifithad been thou
sand miles distant
began to feel respondent about the
matter, but went around the church once
more till | came to the end of the south
transept-the shorter limb OF the cross
and looked vacantly up at the fine semi
circular portico, with its tall columns anC
fight of steps. All this time l nevel
thought of there being anybody living in
side st. Paul's; should as soon have
expected to meet with furnished apart
ments in the catacombs, or a family resi-
dence in the pyramids. But peering eau
tiously about l espied in the angle formed
by the nave and transept on the western
side, window from which came the fain
CLEAN of candle. l stood and looked
between the railings and saw that some
body was moving within. There was
blrd-cage in the window; on the sill out
side some red flower-pots. Present.,
somebody came to desk near the win
! dow and began to write an old man witt
white hair.
If | could only make him see me, pei
haps he would take compassion on m
and let me in. But it wasn't likely tina
he would see me. Looking from tn
lighted window into the twilight outsid
it was hardly possible that he should sc
anything. thought of flinging pebbl
} at the window; but it was good distanc
off; l might break the glass and be take
, into custody. gave few shrill whi
ties, holding my fingers in my mouth;
q even ventured on a modified version of a
Australian "cooee," but it was all of n
/ use. The old man didn't turn his head.
Once again | had almost given the thin
. up and gone home but just then theligt
: disappeared from the window and all wa
4 darkness. Was the old man off to bed,
wondered, or had he gone to grope anon
\ the crypts bslowY Should see his ligl
4 presently twinkling in those high vii
l dowsY Did he couch in some stony ga
lery or find resting place in the golde
4 ballY Whilst was thus specializing
heard a door softly closed, footstep @
the stone staircase; the iron gate at IL
|. bottom creaked on its hinges. L spran
|, forward and met gray-headed old ma
a with pallid face, who was just openin
f the iron grille.
Q With all the eloquence of which 1 a
i, master besought him to do me the goC
b office Of letting me into the sacred fan
v He hesitated, shook his head; at last
relented. every WE'LL" he said, sit
against rules but, as you say, it's u loI
g way to the antipodes. I'll let you in
e you don't mind stopping inside alone f
y an hour; it will be that time before l I
b turn; and must lock the door behiI
It me. Do you still wish to go inside :"
, thanked him warmly and said; "Ce
! tainly, yes" l was delighted at the i'd