New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1872-10-30
THE FASHIONS.
INAUGURATION OF AUTUMN AND WINTER
STYLES.

ORDER THE DAl-OPElA CLOAhS- IN
ING DRESSES - HAIR DRESSING - BONNElSj
HATS, AND WINTER WRAPS.
Taste and beauty fly back with light wings to
the city nest Fashion inspired by Art attempts to cage
I'm greenhouses Proteus whose spirit dwels, famed
by the breath OF orange groves in the sunny SOUTH
and NewYOrk fashion votaries are fully alive to the I'M
mense Importance Of the times Nothing upon this oontF
nent can equal the brilliant panorama upon the fashoha
bic thorouchlarcs when all the Kaleidoscope sendorsoi
Autumn are reproduced in the tolettes and elegantly
dressed show-windows All somberness OF coloIlnS mas
departed, let us hope forever from our hnes' We a."
losing fast the old Puranism Of neutral 'ou 'n'S' anu
in our attire our furniture, our houses our ehurehes
wa conv noture I'm brllancy OF cooring ana surround
ourselves with pleasant things for the eye TO rest upon
Plain white walls are being exchanged Ior nue.
draperv delicate tinting, and exquisite fresco;
churches are gorgeOusly artistic in color ana orna-
,neutation and surely in furniture err tastes incline
the elegant in shape the luxury Of ease ana brilliant
beauty OF material. As for the magmheence OF the
coming toilets OF Winter, in contrasting them with
daily bread" attire, feels like the unfortunate MI
Guppy "whose soul recOed from food Eight
superb costumes Of intermixed silk and velvet, i'm
ported and exhibited at a recent Opening" at $500
a niece we're Immediately purchased by gentleman for
his Wife Then take into contemplation the point lace
the Jewels the cashmores and India shawls the evening
and morning 0ciiCS. and the fine linen, and raVishng
bonnes from the sacred hands of Virot and Felix and
Aexandrina, aud other Partisan angels, and wonder
how much it costs to support wife in this great modern
Babylon. No wonder Miss Blank dismissed, igno-
inously 6anet the other day. because he presented
her with an engagement ring which she Immediately had
valued and it only worth $3.50. What love could
survive anything less than thousands
Opera wraps and cloaks offer just a strong point
OF attraction for their exceeding beauty. Made up OF
the caremonte white cashmere, they splenddy en-
brOdcrcd colored silks, palms closely initiating the
palms OF India shawls gay garauds in Autumnal leaves
shaded green vines Of cypress with dropping scarlet
fuschas purple pansics, aud messy buds, and then
more perfect style, by so considered mot by the
five thousand), is snowy cashmere, embroidered very
heavily creamy tinted floss, and another IN so faint
pink one wonders IL it viii not fade ono gazes like
the pale slow of Winry shed upon banks of show
Then there coaks and sacques of point lace through
which CLEANS misy lining OF svory white rose PINK
or cel blue. charming cloak was OF delicate dove
gray silk; the bradng Of the same color was IN odd
arabesque designs ineEmixed with this was rich en-
brodery In Oriental patterns OF palms and ailanthus In
the soutache lrading long rOnds slender waves like
the groiued arches Of old chapcs graceful ferns, and
stately palms. Ermiue opera cloaks are beautifully
made M and lined with quilted SATIN others are simply
edged with ermine. White cloth is yet made up In
Gacques but losing caste from It's heayneis and lack
Of phaucy. The beautiful Cqchemire SicticaHe in light
and delicate tints forms charming evening and opera
wraps, lined with white and edged with fur.
We are brought back TO the days Of the First Empire
in hair arrangement with which we are threatened,
indeed have really, 70 speak, arrived at. If the COM
style Is followed, hair VIII have attained It's M5hcs
altitude Instead Of dropping in the neck raised as
high as possible upon the apex the back Of the neck
entirely free few light and graceful cuTls may float
mt the back. The hair Is arranged in thick coils
braid front loosely frzzled, aud 1t must be remem
Jerod that the hair must be parted from the back hair
in line from the tips Of the across TO form the high
structure or tower. once for all, 90 has repeatedly
been dwclt upon here. let it be understood That the
cbigR0n utterly and entirely abolished, sent 20 COven
try aud as long as han continues to have strong up
ward tendency" a new era in the way Of wearing
bonncis has dawned Bouchers paintings are recalled
by the charming ladies who Dive by in Wat
tcau costumes like cOquettsh ehcpherdesses.
The powder and lace and patches and Mstre shadow
ing beneath tho eyes revive all Of the POmpadou
souvenirs ana the high hats crowned with feathers and
uodd,ng piumes beneath which know Is the high
pvramidal conc Of bar Of Josephine memory belong TO
the days OF Francs l. SO we are rather in state Of
anarchy. Already skirts, narrow at the bottom
Int widening upward, have appeared. Americans
aytat they are only iu Paris. Nevertheless they
are seen and here, unSraceiu they and so
Mesdames Escamcr Tlllen, rise TO confused memory,
wtAa lost OF ohcr shOTtwasted, naIrOW-skirted nor
uble lcG-o-mu.. n-,leeved dyinities OF that period
Absurd these anaclronisms, we must look into
the future with proper submission and equanimity.
Women Of +. lstaiau dimensions look with profound
dismay for while the waists will be shortened to the
aru-uits the skirts will resemble umbrella with the
handle dOwnwar Is. And them to return 10 the hair
the counterfeit prcsrnment" can be admirably
managed for the tower top, bat there Is the
'front.' made bald by crimpers and hot irons.
Nous rerrOns! Hall dozen hairs constitute an
excellent capital nowadays. they can lie cOaxed into
parting or foundation for the charming, little, float
ing loose wavy cs which shall form an aureola over
and around the brow the fashion Of the couture salts
factorily arranged.
The Winter style OF bonn9ts Is very much described
before excepting the making Of heavier materials.
The way in which they makes marked change
in the whole appearance The bonnet and hat are both
placed very much the back The face and front hair
remain I'm full vew but are no longer shaded. Bonnets
are less elaborate than were led 70 anticipate.
Partisan model extremely elegant in its simplicity
Of Olyeeen six reps Upon one side cluster Of loops
Of olive rbbon upon the other feathers shaded in olive
TO white and superb group, arranged with
artists hand, Of gorgeous Autumn leaves The silk was
placed upon the frame Quakerlie in its straightness.
A beautiful French bonnet made OF maroon
and pcargray velvet. Tie high crown was full puff.
and a large bow Of ruby velvet at the back
At the edges was q quaint bordering OF ruby
velvet and black curled feathers intermxed with gray
velvet and ruby ribbons in velvet eOquettsh hat,
making think Of paintings by Greuze, Of white
creamy white velvet, faced with pale blue, trimmed
with pink and blue flowers and long, dropping white
flower Felt hats in all fashionable colors, gray,
black prune, bronze, and maroon. These trimmed
with two feathers, must be white, the other to
respond with the color OF the hat At the late expo
eitions NewYOrk bonnets commanded quite much adj
inratIon as those imported in fact they needed only
the magic word Paris" inside TO deceive those who pro-
fess TO rdcue everything American One Of the most
becoming hats to fresh brunette face was Cavalier"
OF black velvet the brm turned at side, and
orpamened with cluster OF black ostrich feathers and
a small bouquet OF moss and buds peeping from
dusy cayx. At the back was a large full bow OF black