The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-06-19
YORK HERALD WEDNESDAY JUNE 49, 1872-rR1PLB SHEET

", JUNE 19, 1S72-TRIPI
have taken place have doubtless produced CORE
spending changes In the climate and physical char
acteristics OF the country. Before the Cordillera
attained Its present height the warm tropical, east
erly winds were not chilled and deprived OF all
| their moisture by contact with its cold SUBMITS,
| and the whole region must have worn different
aspect under their fertilizing showers Then, too,
localized alterations have had their effect-rivers
have been turned backward In their course, and
plains covered with luxuriant vegetation have be-
come barren wastes
Ruined buildings have been found all through
Chile and Peru in situations now the most unlikely
to attract settlers-at heights where the snow
never melts, In valleys where rain falls and
not even streamlet irrigates the SOIL and
In places where the land is utterly unfit for
any kind OF cultivation. To those who
first discovered them they were mysteries, and
even the old tribes, OF whom yet live secluded
far up in the mountains know nothing of their orr
gin. In the light OF comparatively recent geologi-
cal discovery 1t now seems probable that man must
have inhabited this portion OF our Continent for
ages, that since those rude houses were erected
the character OF their surroundings has changed,
and that possibly the whole OF the present rainless
region was once . veritable "valley of Paradise"
The commercial prosperity OF the city Of Valparaiso
dates from the establishment OF Chile as an inde-
pendent State, and depends partly upon its posi-
ton ~ port OF the capital and the natural outlet OF
fertile and wealthy tracts Of land, and partly upon
its central situation rendezvous for nearly all
vessels entering the Pacific A day or two after
our arrival party went by sail to Santiago, where
they had the pleasure Of rejoining Professor and
Mrs. Agassiz and learning of their experiences and
discoveries on their overland Journey from Talca-
huano. The portion Of Chile included between the
Andes and the coast range is q narrow valley sew
era hundred miles in length. 1t is crossed at In
tervals ny rudey strathed terraces Of shingle and
sand running from the mountains on the east over
the bed OF the valley. The Professor
FOUND GLACIAL MARKINGS
beyond the latitude OF Santiago, not so intense OF
course, as those observed in higher ATTITUDES but
showing just as Enthusiastically the northward pas
sage OF sheet OF Ice while the lines OF shingle
ming up to the Andes, and called by the natives
''cerillos," were well marked moraines, derived
from local glaciers, which must formerly have de-
scended from the mountains Previous observers
have attributed them to the action OF mountain
torrents delivering their detritus at first high up,
and then lower and lower down, as the
land rose slowly from the sea: but in addition to
the usual marks OF glacial action it was found that
in not single instance did they extend completely
across the main valley, as they would probably have
done had they been formed by torrents. Many ad-
ditiOnal facts bearing upon the question were OBJ
ser we'd, and report from the Professor himself
may be expected shortly.
resented In many respects the highest civilization
we have yet seen and that Its situation on broad
fertile plain at the base OF the Andes with an ee-
walton OF about eighteen hundred feet, was almost
unequaed for the salubrity of It's climate and the
grandeur, OF Its scenery. 1t seemed somewhat
IN liar tlu nISnvo
and intelligent residents that Its
MORTALITY HAS BEEN GREATER FOR SOME YEARS
OF the world, but subsequent experience OF some
OF the party seemed to offer at least partial ex-
PLANTATION OF this fact. A visit which was paid to
graveyard situated In the suburbs not very far from
the centre OF the city disclosed state OF affairs
which evinced disregard for the principles Of COM
mon decency and humanity astounding In q city
somewhat renowned for its culture and refinement.
The cemetery Is divided into three portions one
with stone walls, marble tablets, neat 1ootpaths
and handsome Expresses, which Is used by the
weather. portion OF the community; a second,
palmer, but still respectable In appearance where
the poor are allowed to buy decent resting place
for their deceased friends or relatives, but only for
a time prOpOrtiOnate to their means-that Is, the
graves there are kept to rent for certain time,
discriminatory into pits In the third and lowest d.
vsiOn without any mark Of Identification, and are
often allowed to remain exposed without a covering
OF earth.
HORRIBLE CHASTITY SIGHT.
Even In the second division the graves are made
80 shallow that in many places portions OF the
bodies or skeletons projected above the surface AS
It Is all consecrated ground It is not permitted to
defle 1t by the burial of heretcs within Its limits.
1t is not pleasant subject to dwell upon but it Is
worth mentioning as a possible cause of the great
mortality and as showing the lack OF some OF the
higher elements entering into our own civilization.
Several excursions were taken during our stay
very pleasant experiences. Among them was a
visit to VIVA del Mar, little village distant
%nu o By but
through the suburbs where the houses grow
smaller but cover more ground, their low door
ways surrounded by swarthy groups washing
weaving or gossiping; the men gay In many
colOred pOnchOs; the women usually In clean gowns
their Gsei beauty a. being the thick black hair
Then by spacious well-Ordered slaughter houses
belonging to the city-a marked contrast In their
past little novels, the number OF whose occupants
seemed to be In an inverse ratio to the size Of their
n on a
magnificent views OF the bay, crowded with ship
ping, and In the distance the snowy peaks of the
Cordiera, the highest points IN the sworld outside
OF the Hmalayas: 1t was often hardto believe that
they we're hundred miles away, SO sharply did
THEIR JAGGED, BARREN SUBMITS
stand out against the clear sky. 1t was as strange
as II, standing on the Battery and looking towards
the southwest we could see mountain apparently
to be reached In the lazy stroll OF summer after
noon and yet knew that 1t was at Philadelphia.
ON another occasion short trip was taken by rail
leagues distant. The road at first runs by the sea-
shore, and then passes through a rather
barren district, but soon enters valley
remarkable for its beauty and fertility.
Rows OF noble LOmbardy p0plars with.
bushwoOd between them serve as fences on either
side OF the track for miles, and beyond them I'm
mense orchards, grassy meadows groves OF fruit
and forest trees and grazing cattle gave evidence OF
the agricultural prosperity OF the region. The num-
Der and length OF the bridges the road seem ridi
culous at this time OF the year, when compared with
the apparent insienifcance OF the streams which
they cross but in the wet season the dry shallow,
pebDly water courses which observed become
swollen and turbid rivers and sweep over the
plains with great fury.
THE HOUSES AT QUILLoTA
are built almost entirely OF adobe sun-dried
brick and are OF only story, of the usual quad
rangular form, with the enclosed courtyard, and
generally with extensive grounds attached The
town Is spread In this way over an immense area,
and thus loses some OF the advantages 1t might
otherwise have as a commercial centre OF the
beautiful province in which 1t stands. for 1t has
made it impossible TO transact business with any