New-York tribune., 1872-04-24
THE FASHIONS.
OPENINGS CONTINUED.

UP-NEW MATERIALS.
With the return of Spring we gladly greet
the revival OF gayer coors the blooming Of Spring Don
nets and the thousand brilliant tns Of fashion The
demand for exquisite fabrics Of tissues and silks comes
nm simultaneously from all parts of the land. lmporta
tions arc OF the richest kind Laces, cmbroideres ao
silks, are costly beyond description. Thcre Is i""
pncity Of styles far rs TO arouse sme VI r
cule upon feminine lips, although one OF the uci'io",
absurd creations be perched upon ones own maui
There are bonnets, so to speak, Simply o''""'o
fashion has invented other name; ou' oonno'
shaoes of our rrandmothers belongs TO the Geao past
A Iondon paper says Of bonnets: "The coal-scutue
WAS In vogue when blushng was known; out 'h"' ai'
benc now obsolete, being rendered permaheh'a aE
raotion we dispense with the coalscute' 1t is truc
that bonpets or hats neither covering nor rrotec
tcn. and as hair continues TO have "a strong upWao
tendency" modistes will perhaps inaugurate new era
in bonnets.
Worn on the head in it's proper place.
shadowing family the owners face,
Is the thing for a song or "a sonnet
Yet absurd they may be in shape they are exquisite
enough to turn woman's hraln' Win whom ~ 10
tO have TO have" One must nOt DC SurPr'Se"" "
the names of these fancfu creations, and one sees
Normandy cap" Il is not the highcrowned snowy cap
OF the peasant which mayhap one has seen IN 'ra'c's
abroad or falling that upon the stage in French OPERA
or surmounng the brow Of Celtic bonne leadnS lhe
light infantry through the park; TINS Is % ra'h'r
closely fitting little cap OF black Iace' no prlni'
so to speak. perhaps plating OF lhch-"lue sros
grain ribbon about the edge, ana hoWers
or clusters of Begona leaves massed at the oach'
This can requires face rounded and dimpng OF nian-
tile beauty and innocence. AntaGonstc to TINS is the
"scotch cap" higher in the crown, and trimmed Win
extremely beautiful tinted ferns grouped in 'front.' ana
long tcndrils at the back Then comes the dolly
Warden so coouettish that easily imagine 'he
shadow OF the piquant and fascinating Dolly IurhinS
within its broad brim. Made Of creamy LeGhorn' IL Is
turned UP at the back and ornamented win uehcdte
straw-colored ribbons and tinted leaves win Jew
daisies; price, s2s. Again comes the "Swlss hal'
rather high-crowned with curved brim, lovely
darkshaded wing, and long scarfs OF bacK ChahtiS'
The Iou,s XVI, OF the favorite shape as last
Summer Is before in chip, richly trimmed with DacK
velvet and wing Of some foreign bird intermixed with
some snowy feathers. Another the "Gipsey COronet'
was charming D6raGe of lace rosecoored ribbon ana
long garlands OF peachblossOms. black thread-hee
round-bst-a mass Of hread-lace--high crown, orna
mentcd with sprays flowers and leaves Of jet with an
exquisite earose and long dropping stems OF leaves anu
buds. was $3S A eiel blue bonnet created Tor some
golden haired blonde had high raised crown, WIN
gimpses here and there Of rose de me ribbon OF the
fatntest possible tint and white blonde, price s25
right royal affair of Parma violet trimmed with
ribbon of deeper shade and long graceful garland or
hyacinths. Then there the simple pretty straw
gpseys; half Gpseys TO be trimmed with DlacR ropoh
and scarf of black lace to which may be added clusters
tinted leaves, or roses NchOiouHS
The bonnet and Of the style perched high above the
brow or slightly inclined forward, called bccoming
and we are forced 20 believe in them, but the Welsh
peasants wear their coalscutte hat in the same manner
and Parsian modiste would say OF them, "barbarous
Gaelic, hideousw
For that rara dcis lady who will gracefully confess
10 middle age there lovely French bonnets OF hne
split straw with soft, pucd of silk Black is
the style this added loops of delicate lavender
falling from the long scars OF black lace, Jet
ornaments beaded leaves and sprays with tiny cius
ter Of cocks feathers upon one side for the lace trim
ming full black lace ruche 1t must be added that
loops and rosettes take the place of bows
For dress bonnets exquisite material Is found OF
tinted Grape very like black English Grape. IL is made
up over lace frames of all the and delicate tins. in
pearlgray 6cr1, de the, pale absinthe, and Nile
green also in the cold blue of wntry sky With these
an excessive quantity of black chantlly is used in scars
and trimming intermixed with charming flowers There
are also fat be seen resembling In make Indian
baskets called japanese straws, very ugly, in fact
bideous; yet fashion smiles gTaciously. There are
few charming bOnnets Of delicious color, making one
think Of a rosetnted sky it deepens into the pur
Dle light which fingers last in the West-the hue of
Spring vioets. For trimming there thick faiHe rib
bons rather wider than before and they also come in
the delicate pale shades of the yellow pink Off seashe
shaded peach blossoms; faint tcr, blended with brown
rtstda a ciron mgnOnette green; mauve, rosy
lilac Nor are the trimmings confined to one shade for
example we find ruby mingled with blush color;
a tearose combination OF yellow and rOse-cOor.
and salmon ntertwned with blue. For partial
mourning. lilac and white are used. Widows
bounct exquisite bOnnes OF SOFT crnked Grape and
yoles half.hdden in the becoming snowy tulle cap.
Black ostrich tips aigretes OF straw, jet in fringe and
flowers together with the perfect artificial flowers
that ever rivaed nature will be the trimmings used for
the season. For walls, the Donna Maria" gauzy
fabric dotted gray of all modes, and white grenadne
are fashionable. Large square walls OF Spanish net,
uamented with polka spots, and edged with fowered
border have made their debut; to be thrown over the
hat They are rather prOnonce and not becoming though
new. Dotted white lace walls highten the complexion,
giving peary luster TO the planest skin These are 70
inches long and inches wide and so arranged asto
hang gracefully the face, quite below the chin, and
are fastened behind to the hat in order to fall into scarf
end Another black dotted vail not so long, worn to
form point in front, rounded up; and in adjusting at
the back the must fall above. These trimmed
all around with edging and can be purchased for from
o. to SIS. Pretty ornaments, such silver gold, or jet
arrows large gold pins jet spray are used to fasen
the walls at the back.
About dresses materials and styles what can one say
but that notwithstanding there socalled "Paris
"London" "NewYork" fashions, all worm all de-
pends upon caprice Our bellies will assemble at the sea
shore, the lakes the mountains, and the springs
la Strigne, la JoSephHe la Dolly Vdrden, Pdtque
with gushing simplicity in flowing musns and largo
straw hats and carrying Alpine parasos There are In
dian musDs and japanese silks Irish popllns and Italian
lace Spanish walls and Swiss eInbroideres; Asiatic
fabrics and perfumes from the farther Ind :" Chinese
crapes Ottoman wraps Scotch and English hOntOn
with Grecian tOurnuTe and French scafs with swans
down puma2e together with Brazilian bugs Peruvian
hummin birds amber mother Of pearl canoes and what
nOt-put it all on, and the tout ensemble admirable,
bewildering call the last fashion. most perfect
toilette prepared for the coming is composed Of
pale yet fresh green silk covered with costly white
lace the border OF the lace is designed in garlands OF
anft IN nd il