Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1872-08-28
New York Fashions
FALL MILLINERY

The earliest impor,ations Oft fall milIin-
cry have arrived New bonnets retain
the high front and sloping crown OF last
season. Many frames have heavy rolling
coronets. 10 their trimming strange com
binations of color appear, such a reseda
with blue, dark sage green with pink, and
bronze with tea rose. Pale SKY blue is
used with dark sapphire blue and with
very dark shades ofvarious colors. The
turquoise silk introduced last spring.
soft, lustreless tabric-is largely imported
in the new dark tints. Ii IS shown in olive
bronze and peacock shades in vert-degris,
sage and tea colors; Moselle, q new soft
blue, and in a delicate pink pearl shade
that Is new and very lovely. Turquoise
silk will be used tor trimming principally,
but bonnets will also be made of It and
trimmed with velvet. Pattern bonnetS
have such quantities Of trimming that the
material with which the frame Is covered
Is almost entirely concealed. Flowers,
feathers and jet ornaments appear on each
bonnet Ostrich plumes are long and very
much curled, iancitul feathers and sharply
pointed wings are coIored to display two or
three of the new tints in contrasting shades.
Many Jet bandeaux are imported
Round hats present a variety Of shapes,
some Of which are very eccentric. We
have mentioned the Partisan fancy for
broad -brimmed sailor hats worn far back
on the head This caprice, it Is said, viii
appear here in the autumn
UNDREssED CAsHNEREs
Undressed cashmeres are thick. heavy
and resemble somewhat the Cheviot cloths
worn BY gentlemen They are in their
natural ecru state, free from all dyes, and
consequently show little variety OF color
They are OF very dark grayish-brown tints,
changed slightly By using woods Of different
shades. This material is intended for
mantles and overdresses that require soft
yielding, yet heavy fabrics, and will be
worn over velvet skirts.
NEW EMPRESS CLOTHS
The hnc all-wool empress cloths Just
imported are very differt mt from the harsh
and wiry goods of last season. They are
the most flexible and soft repped goods
shown, but are Of firm, substantial texture,
First choice among these Is the neutral
tints and quaint, dark shades, especially
olive and nut brown. The printed en-
press cloths are also Of very fine quality.
They have black grounds strewn with
Pompadour designs, small flowers. leaves
and vines of shaded gray and brown hues,
with occasional relief Of color. Yellow
brown, wine color and bright blue are
shown in goods Of inferior quality.
SERGE rorLIN.
An excellent fabric for the intermediate
season Is called serge poplin. This is
mohair with s:lk-taced stripes heavily
twilled like serge. 1t has usually gray or
white stripes on black ground, producing
the grisaille effects so often seen in Japan
ese poplins. The price is % cents a yard
An imitation OF this material is sold for
81 cents
NEW FELT SKIRTS.
Felt skirts, to be worn as Bamorals,
are improved in shape and color They
are no longer narrow and bell shaped, as if
moulded over a form, but are made the
proper width and shape by a seam down
each side and drawing-string in the
waistband. They are prettily coIored in
mottled blue, lavender or gray, by u new
process that leaves the wrong side pure
HAAICH LISICd0 "a AdfAll2 SOaAS SLOM
borders appliqued or stamped upon them,
they are simply bound with braid, or else
trimmed with bands or plaitings of velvet.
CoRsETs.
The most comfortable corsets for sum-
mer wear are made OF a sort of canvas or
crinoline with square meshes. They are
very light and cool. and are strengthened
by being cut with transverse seams. These
thin, lace-like corsets are far less bulky
beneath dress corsage than those made
Of thick coutille-hence feshy ladies who
use every means to reduce their apparent
size have adopted them, and as warmth is
not an absolute requisite Of corsets, will
wear them in winter as we'll as summer
White and gray coutille and scarlet cash
mere are the materials most used for
corsets. Stars. arrows and crosses stitched
in satin floss on the whalebone cases, thick
embroidery around the bust, or else a
double row of linen edging, with band
of blue or mauve ribbon, is the trimming
most in favor. The best Greenland whale
bone should be used. There is an excel