The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-04-30
THE FASHIONS.
The Season Fairly 0pened-What the Weather
Has Done This Spring-A Few Of the Choicest
Costumes on Exhibition Scenes at
the Leading Establishments Silks in
Every style-The Complete Lady's
Toilet-What Constitutes the
Outward Belle of the Period.


by tho clerk of the weather, giving us occasioha"y
taste OF the four in the same day anu u''
uging the fair church-goers with rain when .ncy
were about TO emerge from their homes on SuhuayS
in all the bravery OF attire that cunning moustcs
could design and execute, have been the meahs VI
keepinp The season back to an unwarrantaoie OK
tent Even now at this late period, many houacs
are not prepared with their lu quota OF Styles anu
az tho Custom House large consignmcnts from Paris
Of fabrics OF all kinds still remain. There mas not
been for many years season so very latc Id iasl-
ions Every fair devotcc of the tickle goddess re-
members the keen disappointment experienced on
Easter Sunday morning, when tho new bonnet and
the stylish costume had to be left aside with rclnc-
lance ana waterproofs and umbrellas were en- re0le
Tor church. Although Old Sol has asserted his
premacy within the last few days, yet his welcome
rays have been seriously intcrfered with by the
clustering winds and foul smelling dust that tried
their best to spoil every toilet. Still the marts OF
the modstes have been bright and gay as ever,
and as for visitors and customers, their name Ia
Legion.
In the stately establishments on Broadway, az
well as the neat and tasteful little saloons where
gloves OF bonnets' are on exhibition, and the ever
provided ana ever bustling houses on Sixth ave-
nue., the same animated scenes meet the eye, and
merry, laughing girls talk over their little secrets,
admire all they see on the stands and Shelves and
ruthlessly condemn everything worn by another.
r'What horrid taste is murmured as brunette In
striped silk costume nounces past, and "Ain't she
p guy ?" as some well preserved matron steps into
Der carriage with n perfect flower garden on her
head and yard OF black silk trailing behind her.
And for a month longer will the feminine mind be
Exercised In speculations regarding the summer
styles, every day unfods something new and
interesting.
{ Combine combined combine is what political
partisans use for ralying cry just before election,
and that has been the order from the autOcrat,
Fashion, for the last year, and the command seems
TO grow more and more imperiOus every season.
Ruffes and folds, and folds and ruffes box plaits,
side plaits Kilt plats and bias plaits rage with
violence which Is only equaled by the demand for
bows. 10 be sure fringes are worn, but they are
not very common. Laccs arc adopted by the rich,
gust for change, but the tendcrest spot In the
fashionable head is kept for the decoration which Is
made OF the dress fabric. Hamburg edgngs grow
more elegant in their manufacture and in popu-
larity They are to be found In Swiss nouncings
ndgngs, rulings and inscrtings, as well as In
nainsooks and lawns. The "Standard" trimmings
In tucks, punings nutings, side plaitings, in all
widths, are very convenient pretty and durable,
and cost less than those which are made at home
them.
THE DRESSES OF THE PERIOD.
At some of the leading houses an endless variety
or designs In costumes were on exhibition last
week. Among them we may mention the follow
ing "A recherche carriage dress OF rhone green faie
has graceful train Of medium length, trimmed to
simulate round manteau de com with exquisite
xuipure lace, having thread medallions, headed by
gueulc dc loup ruche, faced with silk a shade
yt.~y,A
tnued up to the waist on the right side but ter
inmates about half way to the waist. on the left
eide. under large rosettc Of the two shades OF silk
surrounded by lace. Across the front is very
deep fiouhce, with a heading matching that above
the lace. The basque is perfect novelty in its
way, and has been chiistencd the Donna" 1t
Is double breasted forming peculiar style Of
point In front, the neck open EN- cGur, to disclose
handsome lace chcmisette. III the back Is double
position, a. it were, the upper part forming shell,
lined with the lighter shade. The whole Is edged
with narrow lace, with a miniature gueule de loup
niche above.
NOVEL STREET SUIT
costume de promenade Of sage green gros grain
has the skirt ras dc terre, with garniture nearly
Di narrow rufles arranged ia pyramids, with the
most graceful bows of the material placed between.
Its own heading, which grows narrower in each
side 1t meets tho back garnitule, a large rosctte
ornamenting ono side and graceful bow, with
fvnged ends, the other Tho poonaise Ii in the
Marguerite style, simply hcinmed on the bottom
and closed all the way down the front to within six
inches OF the bottom by bows matching them on the
skirt. below the lowest bow the fronts are cut OF.
leaving shaped opening. Thus lar this exquisite
toilet IL entirely OF the material but II is completed
by tres graceuse CAPE adccided novelty called the
"Lucca" This Is crepe de chine Of the shade
as the Dress edged with fringe having delicate en-
broidercd heading above the graceful sashes falling
deep over the polonaisc and the jannty hood and
slight drapery above the belt Just yelling the form,
are calculated TO impart additional breadth to
slender figure The bonnet intended to he worn
with 1t Is crescent gypsy OF crepe the shade of the
dress, trimmed with tea roses and nc black thread
lace.
RIDING IN THE PARK.
An elaborate costume d'Amdx0ne, made In q light
nnality OF lady's CLOTH dark blue in color, has the
ferent widths OF black soutache braid, and so ar
ranged that 1t can easily be shortened by means
basque forming e s moded a post Il 1ant ahs
back, and open with broad graceful revers in front
and very much cut away to display u vest OF white
pique, fastened with small, nat, gilt buttons and
completed by standing linen collar and coral neck
tie. The basque is handsomely braided to match
the skirt especially the rcvers and the Guns on the
sleeves. The hat which IL n low-crowned beaver
with rolling brm, Is cncircled by blue crepe ven
disposed en- to,sdde, and fastened on tho lett by
and dark gray dogskin gloves. with small gauntlets
quiet ady-like street suit IL OF grisae silk,
the skirt ras de terre and ornamcnted with adeep
box-plaited nounce in front and three ktplaited
ones In the back, surmOunted Wy three narrow
gathered RULES, edged with guipurc lace. This
suit Is completed by an overskirt and basque In
stead OF the inevitable polonaise, the overskirt very
plain in front and at the side. anu Topped in the
middle Of the back, and the basque very short on
the hips but much larger in the front and back
Both arc trimmed with black lace with full ruche
heading TO be worn at pleasure. Over the basque
Is round cape trimmed to match nnd iOoped on
the shoulders. The bonnet is OF black Lace trim
med with lrou-frou ribbon, black lace parbes and
clusters Of ripe grapes.
THE IRREPHEssIBIE DOLLY.
A Dolly Warden costume has the dcmi.train skirt
of n medium shade OF green pouit de sole, trimmed
with very deep Rarn1ture, disposed In large hol-
low plats-tuyuax d0rgue-in clusters Of three,
the alternate spaces Ornamented with large bows
OF silk, edged with fine white guipure. The head
ing is composed Of broad bOuillon, sarmounted
by three narrow rulles edged with lace. The tu-
nlQue is OF foulard-appe green with bouquets and
trailing garlands OF bl,lsh-roses In foliagctrimmed
with white guipure. The design is en- iodtLeou,
known as the "princessc," and the bounant drap.
rose-coored ribbon, Dolly Warden gypsy OF white
chip, trimmed with white and black lace, apple
green ribbon and blush roses.
rather p,on0ncee costume, but nevertheless
slngnlally appropriate to be worn at the spring
meeting at Jerome Park has the skirt OF amanda
brown poult de sole, ornamented with founce