Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1872-10-21
Gales aud Sketehes.
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THE FASHION.

EVENING TOILETS AND NEW FABRICS.
In discussing the evening toilets, Har-
per's Bazaar says that the low, round, short
waist. with wide belt and sash, and the
trained skirt with smooth, scant front and
vouminous tullness behind, are as admir-
ably reproduced as if copied from por-
traints of Josephine and Hortense Faille
and velvet OF soft faded tints-turkois blue,
serpent green and Nile, with damask
gauzes and China Grape, are the rich tab
rics Of these dresses; quantities OF en-
broidery, filmy lace and flowers in profu-
sion are their garniture. A charming
dress for bridesmaid or for the ball room
is of white Chambery gauze. trimmed
with eglantine-lhe trailing wild rose.
The skirt has fiat plating in front, with
gathered flounces on the train; the over
skirt of China Grape, with netted fringe,
is gracefully draped. Garlands of eglan-
tine, with its green leaves, almost cover
the front from belt to toe. The low,
round Josephine corsage has a bertha, the
merest atom OF sleeves, an eglantine clus-
ter on the lett shoulder, and i very wide
belt and sash made of rose and green silk,
of the two shades seen in the garland.
A companion piece to this is similar
dress, with "a tablier of water lilies, and
fringe of dark, glossy, trailing grasses.
\ most distinguished dress is black dam
ask gauze with the Josephine corsage, Or
namen,ed with pale pink and dark red
garden roses, and a sash of dull dark red
iaille lined with pale pink. The black
Chantilly lace on the bertha is sprinkled
with fine Jet.
Embroidery is the richest trimming of
the season for full dress toilets. 1t is
daintily wrought in colored silks on white
tulle, and is then applied to the silk of the
dress. Vines of flowers in their natural
colors are used as heading for lace and
rules. Entire front breadlhs of dresses
are imported, done in fine needlework on
tulle. diaphanous gauze, or muslin these
will be laid plainly over silk, while the
back breadths Will be abundantly ruff
fled. A superb dress OF faintest Nile
green faille has the oyerskirt trimmed with
white lace, headed by a band of embroid-
cred Marguerites. This overskirt falls
open in front, and its most retrousse dra-
! perry is caught back 10y IA velvet sash. The
front breadth Of the skirt beneath is al
most covered by spiral jabot OF silk and
lace.
POLoNAISES AND wOOLEN SUITS.
Polonaises prevail among the fine WOOL
en- suits that will be preferred to silk for
winter promonades, shopping, church and
travelling toilets. These polonases are
Of cashmere or of roughly iwlled camels
hair, worn above skirts OF silk of the same
shade, trimmed with wooden tlounces,
showing lungs and facings of silk; or
else the trimming is deep wide kilt plaits
alternately of silk and camels hair. Most
new polonaises tall open in front from the
belt down in a gradual receding line (not
rounded,) and are held back by tapes tied
over the tournure. Loose belted polo
naises, the closely fitted princesse shape,
and the double breasted redingotese are
all opened in this way to display the ta-
blier OF the skirt beneath. The old favor
ite Marguerite polonaise, which disap-
peared from among the earliest importa-
lions, is again brought to light among the
last arrivals. 1t now has open fronts and
most retro"sSe drapery; the bows on the
back seem are replaced by three large
buttons placed lengthwise. Dress skirts
are not nned or bound with braid, but are
simply faced, and are now provided with
tapes high up in the second side seams to
Tie them back to the tournure.
Specially attractive among camel's hair
costumes is one of the new Jleu de mer.
or sea blue, il dull light Ilue with grav
| tnts. The silk skirt has kilt plats three
inches wide, alternately of silk and cam
els hair, extending above the knee; the
belted polonalse of camel's hair, has a
silk facing around the edge, cord loops
and large passementerie leaves down the
front, WIDE belt and side sash of silk,
A cashmere suit of darker sea blue has
redingote with Marguerite back, double
breasted. open below the waist, square
pockets anu II coachman's collar; the silk
skirt has cashmere tlounces, bias, very
fully gathered and cut in points lined with
silk. Felt hats OF the same shade, trim
med with iailie and ostrich plumes are ap-
propriate with these rouSh-surface dresses.
Bronze, dark garnet and nut brown suits
are shown OF similar fashion.