New-York tribune., 1872-03-21
THE FASHIONS.
OPENING DAYS.

LACES, LINENS.
Alas! poor human nature, tempted OF that
modern Babylon, arraye in pearls and satin fine linen
and scarlet. not even for the Lenen season VIII she
desert her throne How much swceier than the chant
ting choirs solemn 0nateS OF organs the soft
of voices In the aiSes Of fashion, the musical
rustling OF the
"Drght-huei silks Of Srm,cand"
the dainty daance with marvellous fabrics OF priceless
lace OchorS in airy Caskets, too ethereal to absorb
sigh, and walls surveyed with tender eyes and soft
bushes that should be lifted solely by the breath OF
love- the maiden brow yields its holy freedom to
loved bondage. In vain does the heart sigh cpa
Opening days not TO be disre recarded.
Mufcd IN furs and coGc velvet, 1t is acgravation
only TO oomprehendel by woman, only to look at the
hats and bonnes, and flowers which this season have
arrived 10 perfection 1t must be understood that the
flowers vivid red blue and Other impossible tnts are
consigned to oblivion just now, fancy new TINT,
Paris In ashes" of faint gray. into which Is shed
delicate pink another warm feshcolor; the co.d
blue of wnry sky, the paest amber the translucent
green OF the ioam-capped wave which is cast an
ashen hue; aud more vivid is the "P1ris on fire. in
Gamc-color and scarlet streaked with black In the
grave OF the past also lie buried those hideous green
leaves which used to make poor Nature droop
her graceful head and weep April tears. In TACT, II
needs pem dipped sunshine and perhaps even that
woud fail to give true idea Of the beautiful flowers
present day, hangnGin uxurant grace from soft
flexible stems, with the grayishgreen foliage; 10 the
fuilbiOwn are added weata OF buds and a rose
decay its heart Tae 1jwors are all soft in nue.
like opal tnts suggestive of briSiteyed May,
VIII fcsh.uke Columbine beiisit beneath whose feet
The cured srcsm soft ohiugs kcIt'
The show-rOoms Of the nOd'steS presented most dis
tracing n,fange of shade upon shade tint involving
tint ribbons feathers accs, flowers SO Ike their lv-
tug prototypes,
Tile orocis brake Ikc Ere
voe,s, smoraeos and aspboiel
LOils and lilies"
lxcd with Shakcspeaes lush and lusty grasses" and
gray-shadcd foliage. Many of the black straw high
crowned hats embroidered upon the front with OAK
leaves tcudrls and large jets directly upon the
straw A tie beck black ribbon and lace were massed,
and upon the crimson with gray leaves, or
pruroses half hidden IN tinted foliage Flowers will be
more fashionable than feathers this season The most
captivating all tho bonncs chTistened the Cor
Onot Glpsy,' a cOquetish little creation of some fairy
fingers n lcghorn, is black lace puincs in front sur
mounted by pale SrawcooIcd feather; at the back,
half hidden in black hreadace baIbcs gracefully hung
purple hylCnthine spray. Another Httlo halfgipsy
was made OF snowy chip, which laid in putting pale
amber Grape The effect was OF fcecy clouds drifting
over pale wntry horizon where the cold sun has left
in pity, Golden glinng Tne strings were Of the
same material and a the back nestled delicate OF
white and yellow daisies. In ashes OF Paris Is beaut
ful bonnet Of pale pink and gray. trimmed with
long spravs Of dropping flowers and leaves,
particolorcd, exactly matching the silk OF the
bornrt The L,n XVI. stlI holds its place prominently
a. regng fayorte in hats. There some slight ad-
itions 70 the shape tins popular pet The crown is as
straight and high but there is more OF curve TO the
narrow brm at the sides. Placing this style upon its
own particular PEDESTAL there are innumerahle other
shapes each ptqUonte and becoming. II is difficult to
Distinguish between hats and bonnets; the strings mark
tho difference; both high. with pufed crowns To
the bonnet sometimes added tiny cape and slightly
elevated There also TO be in the simpli
city modesty OF viOles little cottage bonncts,
naiDe, If could but conceive the style of hair the
face beLeatb-but how hncODgruOus. POmpadOur roll
and fringe OF crmps, and tho mperturable face of
New York belle! Undoubtedly cottage bOnnets will be
at a discount But very charming and becoming witha,
the boanets of pufed tuAe aud black lace with a
flower match the toilet A charming bonnet Of
high puf3d crown made OF black fuUe and thread
Lace lovely large tea in the midst of exquisitey
tinted foliage placed at the back lace falling in
fu drapery At the neck. Another, of delicate gray silk,
pciaHgcOi black velvet pOnt lace, and clusters of
periwnke sprays intermlxed with lthe deep glossy
of The leaves, falling at he back with long ends of
thread Lace.
II time 10 think Of depSQi8On toilets. If our fair
readers would be advised and not be found wanting
when the June bloom. Too many LADIES. through
Incidence. want of fOrethOught, extraordinary
ongns affection for velvet and furs VIII persist in dis
playing these wnry to the bright sunshine Of
spring day; perfect though they in cold weather
le The du,, the soil OF seasons constant wear is never
pcIcepule than when Spring kisses into life the
waking earth and our pulses beat TfDe6 at the dOfng
u our w,nry uappngs and doDning the Igislike hues
.or-ecrdtcd to le PTntemps The toilets for the inter
ucdlto should be made Of cashmere and silk.
ForexampIe \ skirt and polonlse of cashmere trimmed
with silk disposed III fiat bias bands or kilt plating
a plated AOunce surmOunted by two, perhaps more,
smaller ones. Costumes OF elegance and distinction
viii be- very much this Spring, of silk,
dykcd trimmed profusey with guipure and fringe.
Added to this emb-OIderes will prOfusey these
toilets Already the artistic eye perceiyes the change
produced by these rich embrOideries aud braidngs,
separate or nternxed. The harmonious drapings
not destroyed by upright rulings ruchngs and volu
ninous houncings And one, too, may DO assured Of
being well dressed in the best accepatOn Of the term,
without producing a sensation The brilliant and ele
can't costumes for Spring as disclosed of the
most distingu6 establishments. made Of wool and
sk mohairs Of various kinds and complete suits Of
cashmere plain richly braided and embroidered The
oyerskirt drapcd the skirt with basque, the
sleeveless sacque with cape, is by many preferred to
the pOOnaise. 1t is recommended to have sleeveless
sacque Of cashmere either in black any delicate
mode color to accompany Summer toilets graceful
substitute for ordinary jacket shawl.
At Of the leading houses beautiful suit was dis
played composed of Two skirts, blouse waist, ana a
sleeveless Jacket with cape, trimmed with Gipure lace,
gimp. and assels at the draping. 1t is easy
perceive that this intended for every variation of
capricOus climate. OF the material portions can
De added or thrown aside at pleasure very elegant
promenade costume composed of bronze sik in the
style of Louis XIV A deep hounce trimmed the skirt,
which surmOuntcd by ruche dOr ruches yet
used upon silk); above this at a short interval was a
second ruche the Oyerskirt Of the same open before
bl,1ue of the shade in velvet The edges of the
overskrt embroidered In braid and silk embroidery
Of the same color, here and there slight mixture Of
black The of wide coat pattern had deep cuffs