The New York herald., 1872-09-06
THE FASHIONS.
Preparing for the Fall 0penings-The Broadway
and West Side Trade-The Bellies Coming
Home-A Prospective Glance at the Au-
tumn styies-The Newest in Polonaise,
Basque and Dress Patterns-How
the Rising Generation Is
To Be Apparelled,

While the fair bellies Of the Watering places were
disportng II tne briny, flirting by moonlight, con-
tending at croquet, drinking nauseous waters,
chan1ing toilets every hour or dancing In Gehenna-
like bathrooms, those industrious handmaidens of
iashion-the mOdistes-have been planning, con-
cocting, designing creating, or whatever you may
be pleased to term the calling, into existence these
wondrOus structures Of SILK, satin or kindred ma
teral that are intended to adorn the female form
divine. Even in those Sahara or Ujiji days, when
the air was like blast from furnace and the sun
poured down his fiery arrows as relentlessly as
when the children OF Niobe became his target, the
busy brain of the modstc was at work seeking In
the spirit world of eccentricties for some novelty
which should draw the crowd of far w0rshppers
to her shrine. Now, '.in her minds eye" she saw
strange phantasmagoria OF bOnnets, many OF
which might justly be regarded as the
creations Of disOrdered brain. Again the
air became dark with fabrics of every
kind, resolving themselves into so many dress
shapes that the eye would be puzzled as to the
front or back, the Lnndaan classification Of the
wearer. But the tickle thermometer suddenly falls
from stewing to shivering point; the watering
places are fast being left In hiberna solitude and
home come the fair ones in scores. The first ques-
tion they ask, almost before unpacking, Is con-
corning the new styles. The costly Summer toilets,
which were the cynosure OF admiration q month
ago, are flung contemptuously aside and an in.
stantaneOus rush Is made for the salons Of the
modiste But she is caught mapping and unpre.
pared and the impatience Of the pOuting demoi-
selles must be restrained for fortnight longer
until the temple of fashion is put in order and
decked out in the new styles. Nevertheless the in
dcations of the significant on the dial of
La Mode. Already
THE SOFT MISTY DRAPERIES
and tints OF Summer are replaced by the brilliant
and suggestive Autumn cOl0rs. Although in adj
vance OF the general opening, there Is still sufficient
display to give the outlines Of the tOu ensemble Of
the toilet for the present season. In stroll up
Broadway one sees an endless variety OF new and
beautiful fabrics. Among the silks there are indigo
blue or gros bleu, ranging from So to SO per
yard. Amethyst olive green, peach blossom, flesh
color, cameO-which is decidedly delicate in color
and deep rose color, lately revived from antiquity
In stripes sage green, olive brown and London
smoke will be fashionable.
Chintz figures In all shades are revived again.
but it is predicted that solid coors will be more
generally worn.
and will undoubtedly be very popular
Those who are not yet tired OF Dolly Warden will
oil wool empress, black grounds and chntz figures
will appear under that familiar name also the
same material with colored satin stripes Will be
worn.
There are Irish poplins in all new shades and
English prints Of brilliant colors
Among the decided novelties are the brocaded
Sicilian cloths. They are OF heavy siken texture,
with an overshot design 10 leaves and flowers
wrought H IT, upon % the e. surface. Undoubtedly these
they are oo,t6aat and stylish.
Imported silks, velvet suits and those of home
The array Of shawls and outside appares aii is ex
ceedngly brilliant and unique. In scarfs the Otto
being richly tinted and sufficiently warm to protect
the dainty throats Of the wearers till the season
arrives for heavier wrappings.
with the exception OF Llama hchus evening capes
OF yalenciennes and gnipure laces.
The continuation OF the present Autumnal wea-
ther will necessitate rather earlier than was anti.
cipated the use OF the many
GRACEFUL MANTLEs
that promise to be so fashionable for the ensuing
season. Among the mantles exhibited ut Madame
Demorest's, perhaps the most dtsttngue is the
who is to be with us so soon. This produces the
effect of plain circle in front, but has q broad,
Vatican plait extending from the shoulders In the
back and the sides are arranged in novel man
ner, 80 as to appear like deep, pointed, flowing
sleeves. 1t will be made up for Autumn wear In
the new undressed cashmere, which comes In the
ecru and brown shades, and In black and cOl0red
cashmere and heavy suit goods. Later 1T will be
The "Royal 'and "Empressr mantles are intended
for the same purposes, and will both make up hand
somely in heavy cloth for the coolest winter weather
The "Royal Is something In the Metternch style ana
Is especially graceful; the Empress Is halfftting
sacque, with three seams In the back and darts In
'front.' and is worn under deep talma. open up the
back. This Is quite as becoming for misses as for
ladies.
PERFECTLY TIGHT-FITTING GARMENTS
are gradually going out of vogue for street wear,
and are being replaced by the mantles mentioned
above, half-loose paletots polonases and casaques
The polonaise still continues to be the leading
efforts to replace 1t by the basque and over
skirt The loose styles are preferred for the
~
the addition Of jaunty cape OF cashmere or the
same material as the suit. plain round talma is
shoulders or closed. more youthful style is the
Princess" which has three distinct capes the
guile" has talma front, and the back has three
oxpalts laid in at the waist line and confined by
belt underneath. This is appropriate for quite
For ordinary heavy goods polonaise IN the pc.
llsse style, to be worn without looping, will be con-
naise is q fav0rite style, cut like "Margueriten
in the back, with deep box-plats let In short dis
in each front. It may be worn either perfectly peri
loose or confined with Russia leather belt, to
which the chatelaine can be conveniently attached
Is arranged either with or without side forms.
For more dressy goods-silk and poplin-more
b0uffant styles will be used. In all OF them
THE FULNEss IS MAssED IN THE BACK,
leaving the front and sides comparatively plain.
This style Is especially convenient for those inclined
diminished thereby The Vienna, "Pesses Possesses
points that viii certainly insure for It q Continued
vogue. The back is In the favorite Marguerite
falling over short apron, which Is carried across
the back, not to the waist line, but sufficiently be-
low to allow the effect OF basque, and confined by
q ribbon, sash, or one Of material. The LADY
washington" is similar in effect but the fronts are
in poonaisc style, and are only carried far back
as the side-form seams.
More dressy STILL and just the style for an ele.
CANT reception dress is the 'Lucca." The back OF
his is arranged In unique manner, which must
be seen to be appreciated. The front has n deep
rounded vest, buttoned all the way down and fall
ing over short draped apron.