Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-01-06
PARIS FASHIONS.

,ens, at the commencement OF the season, they |
lid not meet with the success they deserved, nor
Vas their vogue as general as might have been |
supposed.
Some costumes were composed of rich silk
TUNES, disposition, but their number has been
few. On the other hand the |
vogue of embroidered silks has been, and still Is,
very great.
Rich silk patterns, worked in raised plumehs,
are very effective, and dresses thus ornamented
make up into most handsome teilettes. Some
{ mes the skirt is embroidered halfway up or
al down the front en- tabiier, but oftener an
elaborate border pattern is sufficient for the
tr mining Of dress.
For instance, a very elegant robe ae reception
OF this style is of violet fdilie silk. The front
part is short and plain; it is then draped at the
sides, and falls in long and fully plated train
front only. The upper-skirt + trimmed, a Jew
inches from the edge, with a very h2nd,ome
border of pansies and violets, with foliage Of
various kinds, worked in above fozen shades
of grey silk-besides this, there IS a deep che
nile fringe rourd the front pat OF the skirt but
the edge of the train Ia plain. The grey skirt is
worked above the deep hem. with the same pat
tern, but in shaded violet silk The SAM bor
der is Also worked round the top OF the bodice,
which is cut low and square, and round the
domi-fng sleeves, which are completed by ca
QGgersiteS of point lace. a fichu of the same is
worn inside the bodice.
The most diStiRgUe style of walking costumes
are at this season, made of cashmere and velvet
A tasteful model is of olive-green shades
q, III
with hutfng and wide velvet band. Second
skirt, short and coming down into a sort of point
In front, divided in the middle, and deeply
trimmed with velvet; the hack part is cut
squarely, and falls in ample folds it is trimmed
chenille balls.
The jacket bodice is rounded off sharply on
each side, into basque, which forms full
toarRHre behind. 1t is edged with velvet and
ana shows in front waiStcoat of plain velvet
blttOned all the way down. The sleeves are
n-Wl pfnnx OK 10
addition to the wide band of olive-green velvet.
costume Of deep, maroon cashm IRE and vel
vet is also in very good taste. The first skirt
has deep hounce, above which are placed four
very small ones, and a narrow ruching, all OF
the same material. An ample polonaiSe worn
over this skirt, forms an upper-skirt, bodice ana
mantle all in one, This polonaise has very deep
facings of velvet, which are continued all the
way down. They are fastened with "a double
row OF passementerie buttons and loops. The
other part of the poOnai is trimmed with tYo
bands of velvet, and fully plated on the back
The open sleeves have similar bands and a
plated frilEng of cashmere round the edge
With a velvet bonnet to correspond this i q
most lady-iike costBme.
Another is of grey velvet over feuiFe snorte
green velvet under skirt of plain velvet e6iagote
tunic, with W Vatican plaits falling from the nape
or the neck, IN full drapery, open in front TO
show deep waistcOat, with Louis tie XIV
basque, and large, square pockets. Large
sleeves en- enfof'aoir, with tarned-up Ievers a Ia
mouspuitdire.
A black velvet tunc over a coIorcd skirt Of
velvet or faille is also an elegant and becoming
style. The tunic is trimmed with deep silk or
chenille fringe, with Chanti'iy, or black silk
gVipure lace, with passementerie brading,
beaded with Jet.
The bOnnets prepared for wearing with such
elegant Costumes, are extremely coquettish and
pretty model is OF violet velvet The border
is formed OF three bias folds of velvet. alter
mating with three of faile silk of the same color,
the crown is trimmed round With a wide ribbon
OF violet silk, two curled violet feathers ar,
placed upwards on one side, and fastened ON
with a large bow with dropping ends. At the
back, there IL scarf lapel OF spotted black
tulle edged with lace. Under the border there
is double quilting Of white blonde and violet
velvet.
A black velvet bonnet is also trimmed with
alternate bias folds OF faille and velvet on front
border. Next comes thick garland of MIXED
foliage, partly OF stamped black velvet. partly.
OF tinted olive-green and NAIVE brenZed velvet:
this foliage Il partly yelled over with black lace
birds wing of brenzcd-green and violet
plumage is placed at the side, with a bow and
laPels of blue falle silk, black lace lapels be-
hind; double rmche OF black lace and silk under
the border. This bonnet can be worn in slight
mourning; the strings are of black faille silk
very Few flowers are seen In the trimming of
our winter tonnets; bias folds of silk and satin,
and shaded feathers are the fayorite ornaments
THIS season. Fancy foliage is also very fashion.
able. The red, green, brown, or purple-tinted
leaves are mixed with foliage of black velvet.
Begonia leaves, in all the lovely shades of red
dsh-brown and crimson veinings, si III tly frosted
over. are elegant and effective the leaves of the
virgin vine, in autumnal shades, or brOnzed are
also very beautiful. Aigrettes, or small birds of
golden green plumage, or tinted, of brighter
colors, are tastefully chosen to correspond with
the foliage. The small quantity of flowers used
for bonnets are of tinted velvet or glazed satin
White satin chrysanthcmums with reddish
brown foliage are peculiarly lovely.
Another novelty of the season is the silk
plush, such as hatters use for gentlemen's hats
now employed for ladies' bonnets.
A chapeau of this description is of a rounded
shape. the border is turned up with a deep ban
deau of thick velvet, above which rises a diadrr,
OF blue-tinted black cocks feathers. A how Of
dove-gray failie ribbon, with fringed- out ends
is placed at the side, and a large one of black
faiile, with loops shooting upwards, and long
ends at the back. There is no trimming under
the border.
A hat of the Chevreuse shape, of black spotted
tulle, is trimmed round with high double plait-
ing OF black velvet, above which An exquisite
bunch OF rOse-colored satin chrysanthe NUNS is
fastened on the left side. with mum Der of buds
and with reddish brown tinted foliage; loops of
lace and velvet, and one very wide velvet layel
back.
The three following bonnets have been Or
OF our best mcdistes. We give them as speci-
mems of the most tasteful style now in vogue:
First, a black velvet hat, of a rounded shape,
with three satin rOuleaux round the crown
shaded ON one side with grey and rose-colored
feathers, and with bow Of black velvet fastened
On the other by mother of pearl buckle lace
idp' anu lonS pidts VI Dlack velvet.
which form strings, but remain loose and are
never tied; they are finished Off with small bows
Next, very stylish bonnet Of mignonette vel
vet and SATIN the front bOarder is slightly raised
showing full lace quilting under it. The crown
is trimmed round with a satin torsade: a rich
aigIette, and a bright plumaged West Indian
bird complete the trimming, with the addition
Of a handsome fall OF Venetian guipure The
strings are mignonette satin.
he third bonnet is very dressy and suitable
Tor The theatre or concert-rOoms. 1t is of medi-
cls-red velvet and black lace, trimmed with
light fringe OF white feathers. A thick velvet
plating forms a cOrOnet in 'front.' while the
feather fringe falls at the back over double
crossing, and large bow of velvet. The cur
tain and strings are of black lace.
Both bonnets and hats are still placed over
the chignon, quite on the top OF the head Coit-
fures, " hich had become quite simple in Paris
during the war, are now as elaborate as ever il
rot more. The hair covers the forehead much
more than it used TO do, either in short friZzled
curls or in waved bandeaux, the hair is fire.
quently arranged at the back in a long droop-
ing chignon, waved or smooth, with large bow.
formed Of two smooth loops and cross-pece OF
the hair for the evening, two or three long curls
are often added, to dIoOp from under the CHG
non.
a pretty evening couture is thus composed.
the front hair il raised of from the temDIes INIT
"A hnnph an fri IaI