The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-08-27

H..
is simply impossible;" that the Standard echoing
the opinion OF geographers, Is ''mOre N the dark
than ever" Here is q field for explanation. had
one only time or space in such paper this to
explain Let us hope that geographers who are in
the dark will come forward to demand to he adj
dous questions to subsequent moment, let us now
turn our attention to that large body OF water
called the
England Is the first and foremost country In AIri
can discoveries Her sons known to nave
mountains and valleys, TO have marched through
the most awful wildernesses to resolve the many
problems which have arisen from time to time con-
corning Central Africa. The nObest heroes oil geo
Rraphy have been OF tnat land. She reckOns Bruce,
Clapperton, Lander, Richie, Mungo Park, IaiHg,
Baike, Spoke, Burton Grant, Baker and Living
stone as her Many of these have fallen
stricken to death by the poisonous malaria OF the
corded their last words, their last sighs' Who has
related the agonies they must have sufiered-their
sunerings while they livedy What monuments
mark their lonely resting placess Where Is
he that can point the exact localities
where they. dieds Look at that skeleton
unknown centre OF Africa that great broad blank
between the eastern and western coasts. Before
brought. with me producbe proofs in the shape. OF
letters, his journal, his broken chr0nometers, his
useless watches, his box OF curiosties, 1t was be-
lieved by all, with the exception of few that the
most glorious name among the geographical
heroes-the most glorious name among fearless
missionares-had Deen added TO the martyrO Ogy
list; il was believed that the ilustrous Livingstone
had at last succumbed 10 the many fatal influences
that at work in that awful heart of Africa.
It was in my search for this illustrious explorer.
successfully than l could ever have antici-
pated-that | came to the shores OF this
bunder, called Ujiji, in the district of tjiji, my
efforts were crowned with success. II you will
glance at the southeastern shore OF the Tanganyika
you will find Ii q blank; but must now be per-
mitted to I'LL 1t with rivers and streams and
marshes and mountain ranges. | must people 1t
with powerful tribes, with wafpa, Wakawcndi,
NukOuOuuO WanyamWeZi.
with ferocious Watula and predatory Warori, and
TO the north with Mana Msengi, Wangondo and
Waluriba. Before coming TO the Malagaraz l had
to pass through Southern Wavinza. Crossing that
river and after days march north, entered
Ubha, broad plain country, extending from
UvinZa north to Urundi and the lands inhabited by
the Northern Watuta. Three long marches through
Ubha brought me to the beautiful country OF
Ukaranga, and steady tramp OF twenty miles
further westward brought me to the divisional
line between Ukaranga and UJiji, the Liuche Valley,
or Ruche as Burton has it, Five miles further west
ward brought us TO the summit of smooth hilly
ridge and the town of Viii uncovered In the
palms lay at our feet, and beyond was the silver
water lowered the darky purple mountains OF
UgOma and Ukaramba. To very many here, per-
who have travelled in Africa each name brings a
recoliection--each word has a distinct meaning;
sometimes the recolectlons are pleasing, some
times bitter.
PLEASING REcoLLECTIoNs AND BITTER MEMORIES
If | mention Ujiji, that little port on the Tangan
yka almost hidden by palm groves, with the rest
less, plangent surf rolling over the sandy beach, Is
recalled as wildly to my mind as If yet stood on
that hilltop looking adOwn upon it, and where a
few minutes later met the iliustrious Livingstone
If think Of Unyanyembe instantly recOllect
the iretiul peevish and impatient life led
there until l summoned courage collected
my men and marched to the south to see
Livingstone or to die. If | think Of uko-
nOngO, recOllections Of our rapid marches, OF fam
ine of hot suns, of surprises II ON enemies, of mu
tiny among my men, OF feeding upon wild fruit, of
a desperate rush into the jungle. II think OF
Ukawendi, l see a glorious land of lovely valleys
and green mountains and forests of tall trees, the
march under their twilight shades, and the exuber-
ant chant of my people as we gayy tramped to.
wards the north. II think of Southern Uvinza,
see mountains of hematite of irOn-l see enormous
masses OF disntegrated rock, great chasns. deep
think of the Malagarazi, can see the river with
its fatal reptiles and snOrting hippopotami; can
II think of Ubha, recollections Of the many trials
we underwent; OF the turbulent contumacous
tbor the sea I'm az midnight through
alarm and the happy escape, eliminating in
THE HAPPY MEETING WITH LIVINGSTONE.
There, in that open square. surrounded by hun
dreds OF curious natives. stands the WORKOUT pale
faced, gray-bearded and bent form OF my great
companion. There stand the sulleneyed Arabs, In
boards, wondering why | came. There stand the
WWDi, children OF the Tanganyika, side by side
with the Wanyamwez with the fierce and !, tnrhu-
centre. Yes. note IL all, with the sunlight falling
softly over the picturesque scene. hear the low
murmur OF the surf, the rustling OF the palm
branches. / note the hush that has crept over the
mutitudes as we two clasp hands. To me,
at least these strange names have an en-
with the sounds. The connection between
the TangaDyika and the Albert NyanZa
was subject of interest to all geographers before
went to Central Africa. recollect the very many
hypothesis raised upon this subject. Livingstone
no more than lower Tanganyika, and indeed he
had a very good reason for believing so. He had
hcT M tine
Rusizi ran out OF the Lake Tanganylka. Consider
Ing also that there was tradition that Armanlka,
grandfather OF Rumanika, present King OF Karagwe,
had thought of deepening the Kitangule flowing
from the west to the Victoria Nyanza, in order to
permit his canoes to proceed TO Ujj for trading
thinking that there was some connection between
the Tanganyika and the Albert Lake or be-
Before | arrived at Ujiji he had never been to
the north end OF the Tanganyika; but as soon rs
to 1t, and offered to escort him thther. he lost
time In preparing for the journey. Said he In ex-
cuse Tor not having visited the northern head pre-
viously 81 never regarded II as Of any Importance.
The central line OF drainage absorbed all my atten-
ton and meansn
OUR JOURNEY TO THE HEAD OF TIE LAKE
II Is unnecessary to describe here IL BELTS more
the pages OF u book. Livingstone used to call 1t
picnic, and believe he writes of 1t in that sense to
Lord Granville. heartily concur with him, though
the picnic had its drawbacks. AS we Rugged the
coast OF ujiji and Urund, looking sharply to every
little inlet and creek for the outlet that said
to be somewhere In days pulling, would
pass by from fifteen to twenty miles OF coun-
try AS we LETT our camp at dawn, alter
dcspatching our breakfast OF Mocha coffee and
dourra pancakes, with the men gayly shouting and
chanting their lively chorus, echolng among the
great mountains that rose up sometimes 1000 and
5000 feet above our heads, we did not know that
our next camping place might be in an enemy's
country. Who could guarantee our lives while
camping In the country OF Urund? Several times
we were in danger Twice we were obliged to fly
twice our men kept watch all night lest We might
be surprised while asleep. Twice during the noon
day heats we drank the cxharating bohea with
our eyes and ears painfully on the alert, Tor the
enemy we knew to be on the search for us. These
were some OF the drawbacks to the pleasure OF the
picnic II took us ten days hard pulling to reach
hundred geographical miles from Ujlji. Two
days suflced for the coast of Uji the
naming eight we were coasting along the bold
shores Of Urundi, which gradually inclined to the
eastward, the western ranges, ever bold and high,
looking like huge blue black barrier some thirty
miles west of us, to all appearances impenetrable
and impossible. If the waters Of the Tanganytka
cnnld be drained out and we were to stand llnOn