New-York tribune., 1872-08-16

was tae mosJ S rwnneumhered with debris the cracks
were good, although not huaeceI I So we tbongt at
LIST and shouted to awake echoea from Iio WINS
tboe is no response Not yet wait awhile-eyerytnns
- nnon supcratlye scale; count dozen aud then
The echoes will return from the walls OF the Dent ne
reps miles away, waves OF pure ana undeied souu %
ogt 'mnscaI aud sweet Halt moment to regard the
viewi We overlook the Ice du Lloi ana hothlns d
cont the Dent erens, whose summit If sun %
IT obove MS stands IN the way the ranges or me
Graan Alps ocean OF mountains, are seen at ="
glance governed by Their three great peakI oe @ and
Grand Paradis and Tour dc 81. Pierre How SOFT a Tho
vet how sharp, they look in the early morimsi ie n
midday mists have not begun 10 rl.e-Iolhus iIea
scured; even the pointed Ns0, all but huhuIeu i'''
Tnrn to the east and watch the suns slantng rays
coming across the Monte Rosa snoW-nClds LoOh lin
shadOwed parts ana see now even tney' t%auI % Inows
reflected light, are more brilliant tnah tt fherc the
how 10 depict. see how, even incl, sbs,dows
gentle unduiations give shadows & wl.m sinnes or ice
and how, yet again, where failing hndovs each |
have left track there shadows upon 49, ~
with light and dark SIDE Win l Ibe sunlight as It
mateheSs tenderness i1en note tho o1ntess unsus-
steals nOiselcsSy along and reyeais Cih CV'n arp the
concealed crevasse. and the waves Oh h fsb Shadows
ducing each minute more llghts anu ~ n,d Of The
sparkling the edges and gltterng Oh my he
iccles shining ON the hienSs Sn dozzed eve returns
depths, until all is aglOw, ana tHe u""~'0" - '
Hardly an hour had passed since we left the col before
we arrived the Chimney. IL prov proncHn " ~ boen he
fore made smooth straight slab OF rock WAS hxed az
considerable angle between two othefs eiuS his
long body into many ridiculous p'sluohs ho ~ VIII
nc would not, for he c0niu not 1"ssie,ed NO e and
H S @ ide rcd himself on to the end of our rope,
aud endeavOred TO pull MN up but @ ne hHv wac bat he
proved much Tor me- ana atttr seNela att55 5 M o
united himself and quietly observed that ne should e3
DOWN told him he coward and he mentioned
his opinion of me. requested nln 10 90 70 breul anu
10 say that he had left lns monsieur on the lonhtai
and he turned TO 60, whereupon had TO eat hnDe PIC
and ask him to come back for although II was not very
difficult TO get up ana not at all dangerous WIN @ %
standing below, it was quite another thihg 10 eone
down, the lower edge oyerhung III Ilo'oAi"s
Tnc day was perfect the sun was pouring down CRATE
fu warmth, the wind had fallen, the way seenei Ge ear
iusupeIabe object was III siSht; Du WHAT couu o
do alone stood on TOP, chafing under thls
conreemps and remained IoF some tle M ueHi
but it became apparent that the ChhIey was sMeP
more frequently than was necessary pt was hatmdi
channel for falling stoues), turned at as uesetufn I
with The assistance of my cOnpalOn ana relurnoo WIN
him 10 Breuil, where We arrived about lmd-day'
After seven unsuccessful attempts TO gain the
summit of the MatterhOrn, the object was accom-
plished on the eighth trial. but with terrible loss
of life to several members of the party. The eX-
pedition consisted of eight persons, the autnor'
Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, young
| English clergymen, Mr.. Hadow, and four guldes'
| Michel Croz, Peter TaugwaldeT and his TWO sohs'
We give the narrative of the tragic scene IN MI
| Whymper's unaffected and most impressive recital
We started from ZerInat the 18th OF July at haii-
noSt five ON brilliant and perfectly cloudess morning
TO insure steady motion, one tourist anu iii iii 40 NV
walked together The youngest IaugWad.r zen 10 ny ny
share and the lad marched WELL proud 10 be on the
expedition and happy show his powers Tne winebags
each drink Ireplenihed them secretly with water SO
mat at the next halt they were found iuer an Deor
This was considered good omen, ana htue shoII VI
On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any
| great hight, and mounted, accordingly, very
ieisurely picked up the things wmch were ielt IN Inc
chapel at The schwarzsee at $50 ana pt4SeeGe"M % Mf
along the ridge connecting the HOin Win tne MatI .
horn At halfpast eleven we arrived at tne uae VI & .
actual peak then gte5e ~ t5a eastern face We We're now
fairly upon the mountain, and we.e as0lsned @ "a ~ P n
| looked
easy that we could run about 100, ,,o.i,,o, ,or tbo
tent at night of 1900 feet. Croz and young Pe'ef
went on to what above, in order TO save tie on
the following morning. They cut across the heads Oi
the snow slopes which descended toward the FuIgge-
cetscher and disappeared round corner, but shortly
Gnickiy We Others made a solid platform for the tent
In well-protected spot and then watched eagerly for
tue return of the men, The stones whch they upset
tOd that they very high aud we supposed that the
way must be easy. AT length just before m, we
| saw them coming down. eyldently nuch eXclted.
"What are they saying, Peterl "Gentlemen, they say
Is no good But %hen tnSy ley a SG Was Soodnot
difficulty, not single difficulty! We could have gone
| to the summit and returned to-day easilyl
| We passed tie remaining hours of daylight-some
baskng in the sunshine, some skeicmng or collecting
glorious promise for the morrow, we returned 10 the
tent 10 arrange for the night Hudson made tea co
| tie Taugwaders, Lord Francis Douglas and myself
occupyn tent the others remaining by preference
laughter and with the songs of the guides for We
were happy that night in camp, and feared no evil.
We assembled together outside the tent before dawn
on the morning OF The An and started directly it was
light enough To move. YOUNG fgeI came on WIN us s
lowed the route which had been taken on the previous
dav and IN few minutes turned the rib which had In
| tercepted the view OF the eastern face from our
| tent platform. The whole OF this great slope
Was now revealed rising for three thousand feet like
| huge natural staircase Some parts more and
less easy but were not once brought TO
a halt by any serious mpedment for when Obstruc-
iO met in front ii could always be turned to the
right TO the left For the greater part Of the way
tunes Hudson led sometimes myself At 6:2o had at
tanned hight OF twelve thousand eight hundred feet
aud halted Tor hall an hour we then continued te as
cent without break until $780, when We stopped for
| fifty minutes at hight OF fourteen thousand feet.
Twice struck the Northeastern ridge, ana followed IL
| Tor little dstance-tO no advantage, for 1t was
usually more rotten and steep and always more diff
cut than the face oti We kept near 10 H. lest stones
! peIcLance might faIl. , -, ,.,
frOm the Ihelberg or from Zormatt seems perpendcu
lar or OyeIhaugng, ana could no longer continue upon
the eastern side. For little distance dscendcd by
| snow upon the arete-that is, the Understanding
toward Zermatt, and then by common consent turned
to the right OF to the northern side Before doing
made change in the order of ascent. CrOz went
first, followed, Hudson came third: Hadow and old
for something altogether different" the work became
difficult, and required caution. In some places there
was little to hold and 1t desirable that those should
be front who were least likely TO slip. The general
slope of the mountain at this part less than forty de-
grees and snow had accumulated in, and had filed mp
the nerstices OF the r0ckface, leaving only occasional
fragments projecting here and there. These at
times covered with thin film OF ice produced from the
melting aud refreeZlng OF the snow. It the
"nu,.tePnnrt on a small scale OF The MINER seven
hundred feet OF the POlnte dcs Ecrins only
there was this material difierence-the face Of
the Ecrns about, exceeded angle OF fifty de-
lrees and the MatteThOTu face less than forty
degrees II place which any fair noun taineer
might pass in safety, and Mr. hudson assembled this
pa r. and far know, the eutlre mountain, with
ont having the slightest assistance rendered to him
any occasion. Sometimes, after had taken a hand
from CrOz received pull, turned to offer the
10 Hudson, but he invaraOy declined saving II not
necessary. Mr. HadOW, however, was not accustomed
10 Ls kind OF work. and required continual assistance.
It is only fair to say that the difficulty which he found
AT this part simply and entirely from want Of
experience -
This solitary difficult part was OF no great extent We
bore away over first nearly horizontally, for dis
f1.nIf