Spirit of the age. [volume] (Woodstock, Vt.) 1845-1913, 1872-05-02
CUR FOREIGN LETTER.
On the Rhine-A Famous Cavern,-on Lake
Zurich "A Curiosity in Art, etc, etc.

At 8 a. NJ. we drove to Bad Pfntfers,
The ravine through which we drove by the
banks of the river Tamina, was probably
produced by the same CONFUSION Of nature
that made the assure through the noun
tain at the Via Mala, though on not so
grand q scale. Here the waters Of the Ia
nina are but few feet below the road,
which has been excAvNted with but little
trouble from the hillside; while there, at
the bottom of an abyss, flows the Rhine,
whose depth deadens its tumultuousroar to
those who stand upon the bridges. No one
should omit q visit to these banks. The
scenery is unique and totally different from
we have seen in Europe. The
drive along the road, that delightful sum
mer morning, will not soon be forgotten by
the writer.
Arriving at the bath-house, we pur-
chased tickets, put on our lndia,rubber
coat and waterproof cloak, and with UNI
brela in hand, prepared for our visit to the
hot springs, which are situated at the ex-
tremity OF the fssure in the rocks, through
which we had to pass to reach it. Along
the assure and through the cavern q plat
form has been suspended by iron rods from
the rocks overhead, which lead to the
sources Of the springs. Looking upward
some eight hundred feet, we could see
places where the projecting rocks com
pletely hid the sky, and we moved forward
in a " dim religious light, " although the sun
was shining outside bright and clear. We
went as far as the mouth of the cavern,
which is the source Of the spring, but it
was so filled with steam, and seemed so
dark and disagreeable, that we concluded
not to venture in, thinking" the game not
worth the candle" The springs them
selves (Which the guide was very anxious
to have US inspect for the pour bOire) are
at the end Of narrow passage about one
hundred feet long, where, by the aid of
candles, one could see the water issuing
from the rocks; but one look was suh-
cient, and the tourist then escaped rapidly
to the open air to avoid taking q vapor
bath with his clothes on. We remained q
few moments to watch the impetuous wa
tiers of the Tamina rush through the gorge,
which is here about thirty or forty feet
wide, and see the water drop from the
black and overhanging rocks upon the plat
form over which we had passed, and from
which we were protected by wooden
sheds, and then returned to the bath
house, took off our wet clothes, Jumped in
the carriage, and were soon back On our
way to Ragatz.
There is no accessible spot among the
Alps which produces so grand and impress
sye effect as the Gorge Of Bad Pfatrers,
and the ride from the baths back to Ragatz
was through the most wild and picturesque
scenery that can be found anywhere.
There being nothing more to be seen at
Ragatz, we paid our bill CS7 for one day,
and at 1886 P. NJ. took the train for Rap
perschuyl, which is situated on the margin
of fair Zurich's waters, and there took the
steamboat for Zurich, letting our trunk go
by rail to the same place.
We lost no time by taking the boat, and
besides had the pleasure of delightful
sail on one of the finest of the Swiss lakes
The Lake of Zurich is about twenty five
miles in length, and where we took the
steamboat was two miles and half wide,
which is the broadcast part OF it. Its see
merry, though with slight pretentions to
is scarcely equalled in beauty by
any other lake. The banks rise in gentle
slopes, at the base of which were mead,
ows and cultivated land Above these was
q belt Of vineyards and orchards, and on
the west side, forests crowned the summit
Of the hills, which are here about 2,70O
feet high. The boat stopped at numerous
places on the lake, crossing from one shore
to the other, and as we neared Zurich, both
banks were to be seen thckly sprinkles
with houses, factories and villages, forming
an extended suburb to the city itself
Forming a background to the landscape,
were the snow-cad Alps, that added to its
pastoral loneliness little of their imposing
majesty.
At or. NJ, we were comfortably quarter
ed in one of the best hotels in Europe
the Hotel Baur au Lac. Itismostly sup
ported by Americans and English, and stu
ated on the border of the lake, with elabo
rate gardens extending to the shore, ar
ranged with arbors and pavilions, secluded
from the sun. From these shores, pleasure
boats were constantly setting forth during
the evening, filled with gay company.
Farther out, steamboats, went and came in
quick succession. The sky was cloudless
and the water save when disturbed by oar
or paddle-wheel, was smooth as the sur
face of mirror. The view was indeed
charming in the extreme.
We were out early next day seeing the
curiosities of the place. We visited the
Gross Munster, the oldest church in the
place, erected nearly seven hundred years
ago afterwards the Polytechnic, from the
terrace of which we had a fine view of the
city and its surroundings, and then drove
to the Hohe Promenade, from which there
was a most magnificent view of the lake,
with the snow-capped mountains in tho
distance. We drove from place to place
till noon, when we returned to the hotel,
had lunch, and at . p. NJ. took the train
for Luzerne, and after delightful ride
through a country under the highest state
of cultivation, arrived there at 4 p. NJ. and
drove to the Hotel Schweizerhof, where
we were given room looking out on the
lake, which lay just beneath our win
dow.
After getting rid of some of the free soil
that had been distributed impartially on
us during our short ride from Zurich. we
took short walk to the celebrated Lion
of Luzerne, cut out of the solid rock by
4 T.