The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-07-27
WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.


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What They Are and Where They Are
The Journey and Its Conditions--In the
Days Before the War-Acceptance Way
to Paradisc-First Grand hall OF the
Season-The Promised Amusemcnts.
WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, ". Va, July %, 1872
The trip to the White Sulphur Springs is one Of
the most unusual and In its way most interesting
which can now be undertaken by the tourist In this
country. AS came from Washington to GOrdons-
vile could not help thinking that all of Old yir-
gna was on spree, at least the c0lored part Oft.
Everybody was dressed in his best. and the young
girls wore the most startling combinations of
calico and ribbon ever seen by mortal eye. From
Culpepper to Orange Court House every station was
swarmng, and by the time the latter place was
reached the cars were full to overlooking. MY COM
panion or, more aptly as well as more POLITICALLY,
'the fellow that sat by me,n who was, believe
"a member OF the press,' informed me they were
going to Orange Court House to ''asslst" in laying
the corner stone Of new Baptist church. As am
always intensely interested in niggers, we got up
quite conversation on our dusky hired brethren.
Yesterday was court day." he said, ''and they
were oil out, men and women, filing the room al
most to sunocation." answered, hesitatingly, las
American citizens, they wanted to see justice done
and the laws faithfully administered, perhaps"
This he answered with sigh, saying, 'Tlley were
better Off when they were slaves"
"WhyS"
"Becaue they have too many children ever to get
on.n
This was novel, II not logical but did not care
to pursue it in sight of Cedar Mountain, and
hundred OF the battle fields of the late war; so In
quired, "Are they for Greeley"
'Now
''How are the democrats goingfn
Everybody for Greeley, pretty much.n
And 80 parted from my new made friend and
threw myself into the arms OF
WOMEN OF GoRDoNsvILJ.E
Everybody tells you that In trying to get to
White Sulphur you must not fail to invest In leg
OF fried chicken, piece OF pie and cup OF milk at
this point on the route. These are said to be the
finest in the world and such good advice liz not to
be oisregarded by one who will soon be hurrying
on toward Charlottesville and Staunton, with
chance to eat again short OF the Aneghanies. The
vendors Of these articles do not seem to be the
typical "Mammies' OF the Virginia OF ten years
ago-they are toe long and lean for one OF those
contented, well fed old matrons, who believed
the future Presidents. The chicken came up to
expectation, but the pie and milk were failures.
Inc rae between Oharicttevll,e ana stanton is
ingly beautiful But all nature does not seem to be
true to ma tnre, ana IL an artist should transfer to
SCENE OF SURPRISING LONELINESS
as 4 actually appears to The eye he would be
"allegores" In the national Capitol. There Is one
road In this valley which, seen from the elevated
pstssa,n on a. which the railway is built is unlike
red ribbon stretched for miles along the valley:
If did not know II Is only roadbed
OF red clay should call IL belt OF imperial velvet
over which the Old lords OF the sacred soil used to
a bright sunshny day the traveller can feast his
eyes for hours on these surprising beauties and not
grow tired OF the prospect; when stanton Is
pansive becomes holder, and the awful majesty Of
the mountains begins to be felt In the cliffs, which
you will and a mountain is sure to confront you.
The railway stations cramped for want of room
priateiy termed nowhere" Yet this is the famous
mineral springs region OF Virginia. Away on from
are spacious hotels, plenty OF alum water and in
Vulnerable warm, hot and healing baths. One be-
gins to feel as he secs limp passengers getting of
at every station TO try the efficacy OF other
of the waters OF which the advertising columns OF
the Virginia newspapers are now full, that some
Rockbridge Alum or the Red Sweet and what his
maady IL. Indeed, kindly Judge from Baltimore
upon me merely because ! looked pale and ex.
hausted from the fear of such catastrophe.
THE DiscoxFoRrs OF THE JOURNEY
are something enormous. At stanton the passen--
gers OF five carriages are crowded into three, and
the sIckly old gentlemen who must have two seats
one Sep
ever to relieve the overcrowded condition OF the
cars, aud by the time Covington Is reached some
thing Ike comfort Is again attained. From here it
Ia a two hours steady pull to White sulphur The
grade IL heavy one, as IL attesed by every motion
the train 10 slowly crawls rOm ledge to Ledge
OF the Aleghanes. Darkness has set In In the
meantime, and the wild surroundings rendered
wilder still by the overhanging shadows OF the In
visible On this part OF the route the work OF the
DAY being over, different element OF virginia life
reveals itself-the darkies coming on the platform
OF nearly every station to play the banjo and dance
TO their rude music; and II Is amid such scenes and
sounds that one arrives at White sulphur Springs.
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT THE SPRING..
My first impressions OF the Springs were
not what i would call agreeable. A man
named Trotter sold me ticket to ride from the
asked him why the hotel people did not take care
OF their guests but he did not Know, and was re-
vovng In my mind whether the Trotter Brothers
were relatives Of Mr.. Job Trotter, better known to
the village. No sooner was ! in the stage than
would have sworn to the relationship, for was In
vited out OF my cosey seat In the corner that boy
might take 1t to hold dog. The boy was
boy, and the dog was beyond my powers OF
description. The dog wanted TO sit beside me, but
the boy would not let him. whereat was sorry, for
would have preferred the dog 20 the boy. Arrived
O room IN cottage in Alabama row. My room had
q back az well as front door, but could not see
where the back door led to, so went TO bed In O
mood to be dspeased with everything. The SCOT
tage SYSTEM" as found IT, did not suit me, not
withstandng had done as circular OF the institli
ton had informed me IL would be my privilege to
G0-retired to my cottage home When daylight
came, with the circular still In my mind, looked
out for the inviting shade Of the widespread oaks,
undei meath which In bygone years ''lhe savage
danced or the antlercd monarch the forest tossed
his crest" The sight was beautiful, and
COULD 5NEII. THE SULPHUR