The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-07-02

TIFLIs, May 10, 1872
We left Kutais early IN the morning by special
train the Governor had provided, which carried us
on our way as far as the road was finished and
even further as 1t turned out
Mr.. Curtin's part Of the company had decided to
remain behind as there were not carriages for ali
Of us, and although would have given anything to
spend day in the interesting old town, and
although was probably the only one
of the party who wished to stay behind,
they decided that should go forward
with the main part OF the company, and had to
submit. We were accompanied from the town to
the station distance Of about four miles, by the
Governor, Count Leavachoff, who early as the hour
was, came, nevertheless, to see that everything
was in readiness for our departure. We were
escorted by company OF irregular troops, who
ran along nearly the whole distance beside
riages, keeping pace with us, although our horses
went at O round trOt. They were rather
dirty, dsorderly troop vlewer in the
light of soldiers but strong, tall, athletic,
intelligentl0Okng fellows who would be invaluable
as skirmshers and scouts. They wore an irregular
sort Of blue uniform, which showed good many
buttons red scarf on the head, worn In the shape
of turban and each in addition to his musket iur-
nished him by the government, carried whatever
have presented ALVEY and animated appearance
as we went rolling along the road in a cloud of
dust, accompanied by these fellows, who went nit
ting through the woods to our right and left
like skirmishers, their red turbans cleaning here
and there through the green leaves like trOp-
ical birds, avoiding the curves and cutting
OF the corners in order to keep up with rs, and
arriving at the station almost in the same moment
with ourselves. General Sherman inspected them
here, and found to his surprise, that some OF them
had very fine and richly mounted side arms More
than one found had pistols beautifully mounted
in gold, curiously wrought daggers and fine old
Persian blades that had probably been handed
down from father to son for generations The taste
for luxury In has yet died out in this half
civilized country, it has in other parts OF Europe
NEW DEPARTURE.
We took leave of the Governor here and, getting
in the tran were soon in the beautiful little valley
by which the railroad finds its way to the summit
Of the coast range. After about two hours ride
we came to o halt and found upon getting out that
they had brought US to the very end OF the road
mel upon which they were still hard at work.
Walking around this tunnel we found a
locomotive locomotive awaiting us on the other side,
form car, without sides, or Stats or
anything but bare floor. We scrambled upon 1t,
however used our trunks and carpetbags for seats,
and held on to each other TO keep from being jolted
OF, for the road here was none OF the smoOthest,
and our engineer not being trammelled by railway
regulations, and probably understanding that
Americans like fast travelling ut Is popular belief
all over Europe that American trains at the rate
Of hundred miles an hour thought he would show
us what he could do, and went dashing on around
short curves and turnings at frightful rate Of
speed, and twice narrowly escaped running into
herd OF CATTLE which would have been an exceed
ingly unpleasant occurrence. 1t was nevertheless
DELIGHTFUL RIDE.
The little valley goes winding about among the
green, woody mountains, rising higher and higher,
disclosing new scenes beauty at every turn, and
the purple flowers of the laurel or wild rhOdOden-
| drum, with which the sides OF the mountains were
In many places covered seemingly for miles; the
e. that ea the air the gmpses
dells, the many little rivulets tumhlng
down the mountains sides, breaking up into
away to the river below; the clear, transparent
atmosphere, the bright spring sunshine, the lmpid
green verdure reaching so high they seemed to
touch it, might almost have made MS believe we had
deed, was probably not very lar from here.
A BEAUTIFUL, FANCIFUI, FAIRy-LIKE COUNTRY,
this Caucasus, and 1t Is no wonder the women are
so beautiful. They could not, surrounded by such
scenes as these, be otherwise. In about an hour
more we arrived at the end OF this piece of road,
where the carriages sent from Tifis were awaiting
us. We descended from our PLATFORM and before
| getting into the carriages proceeded to the ex-
animation and discussion OF the contents
| Of a basket of provisions had ordered
the landlord Of the hotel in Kutais to prepare for
us. Prince Dagoruky, who still accompanied us.
|
| chicken, cold roast beef some ham, q couple Of
bottles OF Crimean wine, as well as of pale ale he
spread them out bench in the open air and in
yited US to partake, setting the example himself
| by selling leg of cold chicken, an example the
rest OF us were not slow to follow. The repast
taken thus in the open air I'm the beautiful little
valley proved to be an excellent one, and we only
wondered that our host at Kutas, who kept such
miserable hotel should have been able to prepare
good lunch. 1t was not his fault, perhaps for
even crow would probably have tasted good under
the circumstances
Taking leave here or Count Tiesenhausen, our
kind conductor, we got into our carriages and were
six horses in one vehicle four in the other and the
baggage bringing up the rear We continued as
stream winding around the mountains, crossing
narrow gorges and dells, through which other
streams went tumbling and dashing, as If in
hurry to reach the sea on important bust
ness, now pressing beneath the frOwning
ruins OF some old castle or fortress that
roDbe ger stronghold. now looking down on
some shattered old water mill whose silent wheel
gave forth no musical murmur, finding at every
turn something to remind us OF the strange,
romantic country In which we were.
Now 1t was caravan OF camels camped on some
ing among the shrubs and brushwood or lying
down dreamily chewing their cud, their drivers,
men, women and children, asleep in the sunshine,
and how often did we meet group fOrcibly remind
ing us of the flight into Egypt-a woman mounted on
donkey or horse, with Child In her arms and
man walking at the animals head with the bride
In his hand The women ride astride, however,
just like the men, and they would probably be as
much puzzled as to the uses OF u "side saddle" as
q COmanche Indian.
ON THE SUMMIT-THE DESCENT
We reached Suram, the summit OF the range,
about the middle OF the afternoon, where we
changed horses, and then commenced descending
on the other side into the valley OF the
Kur, on which river Ia situated the ancient town
OF Tinis We reached the plain long before sunset
and continued our way In the direction OF GOri
where the General proposed passing the night
We soon found ourselves in rolling. undulating
but apparently almost barren, unnhabted country
which seemed to have long been parched by burn
ing suns and never mOistened by The genial rama
rather cui ious circumstance near the mountains.
i do not know, however, whether this was an
ceptonal period OF dry weather, or whether it is
the ordinary state of the climate
STORM ON THE MOUNTAIN.
The country here certainly presented amost curl.