, 1872-10-20
WELl.DRESSED
Gent1emen's Fashions for the Fall
aud Winter Of 18T2-'T3.
The Latest and H1ost Popular Styles in
Fabrics and Garments.

There arc 40 busier men in Chicago Eow-a-
days than the merchant tallors, and no talk ia
more fashionable than that Which discusses
"style" in fall and winter garments. With
change Of dress in nature, there always comes
chsnge Of dresa among men, and, in colors. the
garments they put on are much alike: Nature
and men, however, becone very independent Of
each other in The fall-tzne. for, while men are
eacking their brains with efforts to invent styles
in fabric and garment, and also to discover what
is the Hnewe8t thing out" nature, having
thrown of her summer. attire, quietly pursues
her Life OF development, in q state Of nakednoss.
It were, perhaps, unfortunate for men that they
cannot follow natures example, for then how
much less OF care, and how much more OF money
would He have.
But unfortunately, msn is member Of So
ciety founded. according to Thomas Carlyle,
4:upon CLOTH" ed to be respected, or even tol-
Grated as a member of it, q man must wear
''cloth," ard tll$:t, too, in fashion.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Etyle in fabrics waa never more in accordance
With good taste, combining elegance with extra
durable qualities TIE 'sloud," in color and
figure. las died out, and chaste and refined
cclore and figures have taken its place. This is
especially pleasing to the American gentleman,
who possesses mora real taste III dress than the
gentleman Of any other nationality. To Illus
trate this, plaid e:yles, which are generally
"lopa'' and striking, are staple Of
goods auong the English, while in
America they havo never met With much
favor, We prefer, rather, the diagonal. and it
NAV be here remarkcd that, during this fall and
winter, no goods for general dress viii be more
'poplier. These goods are just the same in
STYLE tlat they have been in the past, save that
the lib, in5tead Of running diagonally over the
garment, rms straight: There have appeared
msnJ new designs. n fabric, but we shall de-
scribe these in our special descriptions Of
toilets. In tbs
srz1E OF GARMENTS
there ia marlled variety. The Einsle-breasted
straight ,irocks and cutawayE. are ell fashionable
and n good taste. The great change in coats is
in tho decided increase in the length Of the
skirts, which ia necessary to preserve the har-
mony in the dress, By reason Of the increase in
again in fashion. OF these the singfo-brcastea,
closing with two buttons, and narrow lapalled
coat. is decidedly the most fashionable. Sack
coa;s a-e not much IN favor. But Of those worn,
the double-breasted sack ie the most popular.
breasted vest with three buttons on side, is
still in favor, The colla1leEs vest is but little
worn. In overco.ts,' the surtcut is but little
worn, the sack Being 1aore in 7agoT. In fabrlcs
for overcoets, there arc some Indications that
fur beayers will come Ia use again. light
but Secause Of its delicate color is not likely to
comeinto general favor.
eES11zslES's TOILETS,
Tht full evening toilet consists Of '1West-
Englnd II black d1esG cont, cut to roll richly
one lille from bottom Of LAPEL; collar. medium
In eiz, cuffs three inches deep. and fastened
with tTo buttons; the sleeves, medium in size,
end ct to the shape OF !lle arm. Haistcoats Of
enbbidered black, cloth to- match coat; and
also it white end pearl-colcred bEoadcloths, cut
Row p show three studs.
Pats OF black English doeskia, cut medium in
size, Ind to fall easily over the boot, with but
little 1p1ing eboye tho instep, wrinkles being q
decided feature IN the new style. lroNse!s also
Of While and pearl caeslneres a7e considered
Terv efgsnt for wedding receptions and like oc-
casiouA In this suit, tie neck-cIcth should be
Thite, or light pearl saade, with gloves to match.
FT breakfast, Or morning weddings, which OF
bert ,frock,nr' double pteast and fastening with
three buttons, is much worn- With this coat,
khe rest Should be Of white quitting Or cloth, the
trousers e pear zhade ds of caSal!nara 1ana at wiHh
lutte yer!I recherche toilet.
For promenade, OF han-dreas costume, the
ss Prince Lbert frock." made OF fue English
melton Eshred with snialt checks and stripes, in
black, Eda, brown, or olive shades, with cassi-
mere 1st md trowseEE, either, light Or dark,
:: artl nackcloth. glo7as, and walking-Etick.
leu of tie stick, small silk umbrellas are car
ID to large extent, end while they add ele-
nee and ease, they are useful in heat and
,.t,rm. TlnE suit is much used in calling.
N BUSINESS SUITS,
there is nuch margin allowed, but tae prevailing
style in fabric is diagonal for coat an2 vest, with
4 figured cashmere fc7 pants. In style Of make,
:. cut-aTay, eingle-breaetcd coat is the mcst
worn The trowssrs are cut without spring, and
smaller aE the bottom than at the knee.
N FEE1-wEAc,
shoes are most WON for half dress, while boots
made full tnd roomy are IN style for dress. The
large shoe, known as the "De1ter bottom" is.
Increasing IN popularity among all TIC civilized
IreER think no more Of wearing. tight shoe,
Shan they would q tight, email coat. The
larger ths shoe nowadays thu more
style it ia supposed to exhibit, titus
eS ha8s Sc on ben n e seoes 1et is
Feature Of ths new shoe, which adds r'uch to ite
beauty. Shoes, therefore, telng no longer com
PEELED to i!go On "a tight, viii be i.aned for
- worn Icy, without pieat;; For dress, the
Losom shalld be hen-stitcsea. Tie cuI should
fare ut tha hand. The stslG;ng collar is most
Worn, with the froot corner slightly broken. |
They are made wide, so Us to ehow large
width abo7{ the coat co1lnr. When worn With a |
f:acy scarf the effect is very pleasing.
| IN EEcEwEAE,
The 'sBond street scarf and the Rival" both
which cover the whole bczcm, are tie most |
-~~uler Tin London little elsa is worn. Except |
10: dresy the tie has been entirely supplan.cd
=" filc sarf. and the styles are go many that It
:fhc.}t to describe them.
=! HATS
l'or BR hs1f-dress hats, the leading stylo is
the di4l b1im," i" black. Soft hats are worn
more th{p stin, among which tho Il ''Streuss
Turban'is ihe most popular.
THE ElaBT-HoUR SYSTEM. !