Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1872-09-19
Special Foreign Correspondence of the
herald
European Notes No. L.

CLIMATE-THE TOURISTS SEASON.
MANNEDoRF, LAKE ZURICH
SWITZERLAND, Aug. 81.
Editor RutZand Herald: After a So
journ of nearly four weeks on the quiet
shores of that most beautiful of lakes,
Como, in Northern Italy, left my
pleasant quarters at Bellagio, and cross
ing to Mennaggio, on the Western shore,
passed a few hours at the princely
Albergo Vittoria, an ancient villa, lately
reconstructed and like many of its sister
villas, transformed into a cOmOdiOus
hotel. to meet the ever increasing ext
gences of summer travel; it's well shad-
ed grounds extend to the waters edge,
to which you descend by a broad stair
way of stone and from its wide balloon
les the visitor may enjoy the ever vary
ing panorama of passing pleasure craft,
of lake and mountain, busy steamers ply
ing to and fro, and pretty barques with
their parti-colOred awnings; it has ac-
quired a well merited popularity among
American, English tourists, and on their
register | read the names so well known
thro Ighout our land, of Amos Lawrence
the merchant prince Of Boston; OF Ben
jamin Silliman, Jr., Of Yale College
fame ; of Prof. Morse, lately deceased,
and others Of equal celebrity.
After few hours rest, and as the
sun begins to sink below the hill, I don
ned my knapsack, and with my trusty
staff, wendell my way over the hills to-
ward Porlezza, at the head of Lake Lu-
gano, where proposed topass the night.
q From Croce, a little birgo on the sum-
NIT of the hill, the lake was revealed in
all its loneliness. Calm and unrutfled at
that quiet evening hour, each tiny ham,
let along it's shores standing out clear
and distinct through the transparent at
mosphere. Bellagio and the projecting
cliffs above, and the changing hues of
the evening sky presented an ensemble,
that would have gladdened the heart of an
artist: but the shadows were beginning
to gather DER hill and valley, and with a
ten mile tramp before me, | could afford
little time for the indulgence of poetic
musings. After passing the crest of the
hill, the valley beyond presented the in
teresting feature of Wcll-tilled, prOduC-
tive farms and vineyards, and an air of
general thrift, in strong contrast with
the comparatively scanty Vegetation of
the more immediate surroundings of the
lake, while further on the scene increas-
ed in picturesque beauty, with every
mile as | neared the little bOrgOs Of Vel
10 and San PietrO; the road here winds
through a narrow defile of the mountains
emerging from which we catch the first
glimpse Of the spires of POrlczza and the
cleaning waters of Lake LuganO. Here
| secured a room with pleasant outlook
on the lake, and early the following
morning engaged barQue to visit the
GrOttO del RcZZO, one of those interest
ing natural formations which abound
throughout the lake section of northern
Italy. Crossing the lake to a point a
mile or more distant we secured the ser
vices OF native guide, and a few mo-
ments walk brought us to the mouth of
the cavern, through which we entered
the central space, the walls of which,
some twenty feet in hight, form room
Of irregular proportions some twelve
feet in diameter through an aperture, in
the center Of which, rusheS a torrent OF
cold, sparkling water, forming a dimin-
utive lake in the central basin asmallcT
apartment opens from the larger and
through an arched aperture in its further
extremity is revealed a charming view
of the country beyond. The effect
upon the rocky walls of the cavern and
the crystal stream of the glare of the
pine torch of our guide was one long to
be remembered.
POrlezza is a small town of ancient
origin, containing some two to three
thousand inhabitants, and it's buildings,
public and private, indicate in their
quaint designs the antiquity Of their con-
struction. 1t is diligence post on the
route to BelluiZOna, and here at noon a
hungry COachful Of tourists alight to
partakc the good cheer of mine host of
the Hotel du Lac, resuming their route
by the little steamer in waiting ut the
wharf, to Lugano, thriving town mid
way down the lake on its western shore
The city is built on q curve in the bay.
and has thus acquired, among tourists,
Cgttttt
which city, by its position, it much re-
sembles. Its houses and hotels are OF
the first architectural order, the latter
furnished with every comfort and with
an elegance quite upon par with their
prouder rivals in larger cities. To the
left rises the lofty crest of Mt. Salvatore,
on the summit Of which are seen the
white walls of the little chapel or con-
vent built centuries since, but now serv-
ing only to crafty the curiosity Of the
passing tourist.
Although within the limits of Swift
zerland, the universal language is here
Italian, the lower classes using a kind Of
patois or dialect, as is also common
throughout Italy. After a good nights
rest | was up at four on the following
morning, and after breakfasting, accord
ing to the custom of the country, on
coffee, roll and butter, took my course
over the hills for Belluizona.
The national highway, broad and
thoroughly constructed road Of macad-
am, at this early hour, presents an III
tcresting scene Of life and animation.
Donkey's laden with market produce, i'll
huge panniers strapped to either side,
patiently vending their way toward the
town under the guidance Of the stalwart
peasant girl, who, sitting astride the
wooden saddle, contentedly'knits as she
goes, droves of sheep and oxen, wagon
loads of fruit fresh and ripe, girls and
women, each with the broad, deep pan
nier strapped to the shoulders and filled
with merchandise and wares of every
description, all shod with the wooden
sandal, peculiar to the section, consist
ing of block rudely shaped and held to
the foot by broad leather bands passing
over the instep, the manufacture OF
which forms one of the staple branches
of minor industry in town and country.
Passing the interesting towns of Bironicc
and Belluizona, l reached the thriving
town of Faido, on the evening of the
second day, a town famed throughout
the section for the renonlnice of its beer,
but more interesting to the tourist from
the picturesque beauty of its position
and surroundings, and the beautiful cas-.
cade which pours rushing torrent