Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-07-13

are run, the two organizations cannot come 10
nishes ard runs its own sleeping cars. However
fhis may be, il is certain that the travelling pub
lie is loser by the change.
After leaving the outposts of Mormon ciyiliza-
ton, in the vicinity OF the Great Salt Lake,
there is little along the lire Of the road 10 delight
the eye or interest the mind until tie valley OF
the Truckee is reached, on the eastern slope Of
the great Sierra Nevada range. The desert
wastes along the track Of the Union Pacific road
are barren and desolate enough, in all con-
science; but those on the Central portion Of the
route are something mere. They seem to be
set rched and bHghted. as II in punishment for
some great sin. A. places along the line stable
rivers disappear forever from sight, while from
some OF the sinks such hCrrid stenChes arise as
to strongly call up the remark made by the old
Dutchnan at one OF the sulphur springs OF Vir.
ginia: that 80 Hell Is not more a. q mile from dis
place" Few things can be more dreary or tor
lCTn than ride through tins smltten country.
Only st rare intervals is pure water or anything
green 10 be seen. The fine alkai dust finds its
way everywhere; the drinking water Il acrid To
the taste and disturbing I'm it, effects; the skin
grows dry, harsh and dirty; ewes become in
fiamed. and noStri's sore; while. on account
either of the high altitude or irritation produced
by the poisonous dust, or both combined, not a
few passengers are affected with severe bleeding
at the nose.
One is therefore prepared TO take long
breath of relief, well OF account Of personal
comfort as pleasure to the eye, when the dancing
streams of pure water, the green pines and the
white snow banks OF the Sierra Nevada noun
tains come into near view. The ascent up the
eastern slope OF the range Is somewhat tedious.
1t is nevertheless pleasant, on account Of the
grandeur and variety of the scenery presented
at every turn of the road. As the summit is
approached, however, the traveller l. robbed OF
good deal in this respect by the frequent and
almost interminable snow-sheds which are sure
to break the view at the most attractive and in
terestlng points. This is particularly true OF
that gem of the mountains, Bonner Lake. Fine
views of this beautiful sheet of water could be
had from the car windows, but for the provoking
sheds, which always come in when one gets his
eyes fixed for good look. The same may be
said of most Of the fine scenery on and near the
summit OF the mountains as the reader can I'M
derstand when told that there are in all about
twenty miles of these sheds, all rooted in and
enclosed as tight as an ordinary bridge on east
ern railroads. After the snow line is passed,
however, the view Is uninterrupted, and the
| ride from that point to San Francisco is pleas
ant and interesting in the highest degree, afford
ing es il does great variety of temperature, with
the diversified attractions of elevated mountain
scenery, orchard-like foothills, rough mining
camps, green and fruitful valleys and broad
extended plains, waving with rich harvests OF
golden grain.
| Nor is the near approach to San Francisco
much less attractive than the latter part of the
| journey. Arriving tired and sleepy at the Oak
land pier on the opposite side of the bay long
after dark, the traveller sees the city lying its
more than seven hills like a veritable city OF
refuge. The wind that has all day kept the loose
sand in motion has died out. The heavy fogs
are dissolved in thin air. The rays of the half
full moon are slvering the crests of the dancing
waves in the bay, which, in turn, reflects with
hardly any loss of brightness the myriad of stars
decking the clear blue vault above;-the street
lamps which climb the steep hill sides of the
city all the while seeming through the dim dis
| lance like fairy lamps hung out in festoons to
illuminate the archways and balconies of some
vast and shadowy palace. Ali these things are
very pleasant In themselves; but the pleasure is
heightened an hundred fold where, as in our
case, the tired traveller Ends ne relatives and
dear friends waiting to welcome him after his
long and weary ride. But, even to those who
| lind their warmest welcome at an inn" it is
much to be at their journeys end, free once
more from the changing noise and swaying
motion of the cars, and rid of the incessaLt im.
portunings of the internal never-resting train
boys. What have these imps done, by the way,
that they should be kept forever on their legs?
and of what great crime have travellers been
guilty, that they should enjoy no respite from
be, why not, oh cruel fates let the whole thing
be settled in the last great account?
RETROSPECTIVE MEMORANDA.
Looking back over the journey after its close
but little remains TO be said. Yet it is possible
that some of the incidents, experiences, and
minor details Of the trip may not be without in
terest,- the probable future tourist, at least
II not to the general reader trust will be par
doned therefore, if extend this letter beyond
the point where it might have been fifty brought
TO a close. 1t is not likely that any railway
journey of a whole week in duration can ever b.
made in this or any other country, without IA
tigue and quite free from annoyances. OF these
we had our share; ye on the whole the trip was
pleasant and edifying one. And as much,
think, can be promised 10 any traveller making
The journey whose temperament has al average
amount of the philosophic in its composition
and who exercises a reasonable degree of pa
thence and forbearance. In the main, the trav-
cling companions with whom we were casually
thrown by the several changes on the route
proved in the end to be pleasant and intelligent
people, though of course there are occasionally
marked excep tons to this rule.
The weather was all that could be desired.
Making the transit in the latter part OF NAV.
we had right to expect this; yet it often hap
pens, even at this season of the year, that the
passenger is subjected to great and uncomfort-
able changes in temperature on the route. We,
however, escaped any marked extreme Of heat
or cold. Save st Cheyenne, we encountered no
storm on the way, or even any fall of rain.
violent and even frightful thunder storm wa
prevailing during our stay at that place. The
incessant flashes of lightning and peals of thuu-
der were both binding and deafening, and one
or two bolts struck in uncomfortable proximity
TO our train. The streets were welI-nigh flooded
by the brief but heavy fall of rain. What fell
as rain on the plain or which the town stands
was snow on the mountain tops near by, and
between Cheyenne and Sherman the ground
was still quite white from its effects as we passed
by.
The first snow left over from last winter
stock which We met at close quarters on the
route was in and beside the snow sheds on the
slight summit just east OF Cheyenne. On the
Laramie plains, westward, where the trains
were delayed 20 often and so long last winter
no traces of the cruel obstruction were left
though alongside of the track were to be seen in
broken implements, ETC., plenty Of evidences of
the bitter and prolonged contests waged between
man and the elements. Along the summit of
the Wahsatch range we again ran through fire.
quent and high beds which had not vet given
way to the warm sun, and in the Sierras the
piled up banks often stood so high to obstruct
the view from the ear window.
The stof the tap from Washington to San
Francisco nsy be set down in round figures at
two hundred dollars for each grown person. 1t
may be inside for less by living out of a lunch
basket and foregoing the use Of Q sleeping car,
but In view Of the effects OF this course upon
ones present comfort and future health its
adoption viii generally be found to be false
economy in theend. The fatigue of the Journey
is 90 great 1t best that sleeping section or berth