The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1872-12-07
THE COIFFURE.

THE COUTURE.
The couture for evening wear ia wholly
changed. 1t takes Iongerto remodel the bali
as worD In the street and upon ordinary occa-
slons, but even that Is undergoing q transfer.
nation. The new style ia that Of the First EN-
pire under the reign of Josephine, and looks
strangely out Of place In connection with a
modern belounced, befrllled and berurbe.
lowed costume. Society women of taste and
culture understand this, and adopt the Jose
phiue coiffure In It's Integrity for evening
dress only, arranging Win Il a Charming
"toilette antique" Of embroidered Indian mus.
lin or striped gauze, with short waist cut low
and such . costume are Of course
sufficiently trying to the passe women,
who hold on vigorously to baaquea and
panniers and pulled shirts and s'sur-
plus"-as some one calls ''surplicen-
waists, and become .virtuous to indignation
at the mere mention Of while arms and
rounded busta; but TO young beauties 1t Is
passagesat-arms 'llterally" take place when
two leaders ofthe respective forces happen to
meet. The following is the method by which
the Josephine couture Is obtained: The back
hair Is combed up straight. from the nape of
the neck, and q nigh circular effect given. by
a cluster of finer puff. on the top of the head,
surrounded by q braid or q thick tress OF
AaoSbtk ia toh AANA " pdIU6us BLU
arranged without trizzes, or finger puffs are
placed lengthwise over The temples; or the
hair may be closely frizzed In front, and q
few light, graceful curls, arranged to float at
the back. The front hair must be parted Ia a
line from the tip of the cara across the top to
give the complete effect. A tortoiseshell
band or a high back shell comb 10 often worn,
and In full evening dress flowers are laid d.
rectly on the top Of the structure.
TIE WINTER %PoLoNArsE.
This graceful garment has taken its place
among the independent outside cloaks OF the
season, and Ia worn upon ell occasions. It Is
varied In form, and has assumed larger bro.
portions, 30 as 10 adapt 1t thoroughly to pres.
ent use. Many are imported unmade. ere-
gantly embroidered with, BLK and Chenille;
other, with sIlk-wool and 6nely.culj jets; others
again braided with fanciiul designs with q
heavy mohair braid that Ia sewn on endwlse,
and gives the garment q very Rich appearance.
Velvet %polonalses rank hrst 10 value and
beauty. These are richly embroidered and
trimmed with guipure, or thread lace. Next
come those In camel's.bair cloth. This
fabric Is very fashionable; 1t is a yard and
three-elghlhs wide, and Jour dollars a yard.
The polOnaises In this fabric are richly en-.
broidered or braided soutache, aud finished
with yak lace or fringe. The wool embroid-
cry is like the point Rnsse; stitch In one or
TWO shades Of neutral-tlnled wool: Next to
camel's hair come cashmere and cloth. Many
OF these garments are buttoned 10 the oxyd.
lied silver buttons. They can be made very
warm. Over any suitable undardress form
there Ia endless taste displayed, each establish.
ment having It's " design. There are loose,
belted ones, %light-htting and double.breasted
ones; but nearly all fall open, from the belt
down, In a receding line, not being rounded
but held back by tapes fastened over at the
%tournure. Polonaises and tunics Of all kinds
are made much longer and less bouffante;
and the iullness consists merely 10 q box plait
at the back Of the waist fastened by two but
tons. Some have velvet vesLs, cuffs and
pockets.
ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS N LEAVES.
There was q time when to wear many or
la any way conspicuous flowers was looked
upon as extremely bad TASTE. But the sdop-
ton OF this style by many leaders of fashion
abroad, and particularly In Paris, has made 1t
equally q fashion here, and indeed nothing
can exceed the beauty of the flowers aud
leaves nov sent over by the leading Partisan
houses, nor the fidelity with which the best
lubricants initiate nature. And 1t seems
reason for their adoption that the making OF
these flowers is In thousands Of Instances the
sole resource OF orphans and widows lett TO
struggle alone since the war. Among these
beautiful creations of au- art requiring great
taste and trnthfulnes6 In detail, are Inc
velvet and satin flowers, which, although we
have had them for several seas0ne, and very
lovely ones, were never as handsome nor as
fashionable Us now. In The tea, bronze, Luc:
ca, Ia shade Of plum) turquoise, dead garnet
and sea loan shades the velve and satin roses
are a marvel. OF course these have nothing
OF. nature, though there is such thing as u
black rose; aud some shades OF crimson and
purple velvet roses are like the real. Still,
natural or unnatural, they form 81 superb. trim
ming, ana where The color Is deep and heavy
are really improved by the yellow centre that
usually combines with them 10 tiny spears.
THE RIVAL OF THE ROSES.
The exquisite birds wings and ~peacock's
eyes, heaus and crpsts ara certainly an 0rna-
ment that is adapted 10 The season and 10 the
peculiar shades now worn, The delicate
plumage of some birds, 10 lis wonderful shad-
Ing, certainly recommends It 10 the artistic
eye, Among the most beautiful OF the pea
cock trimmings Is the crest, held in q pompon
of small black ostrich plume enda, curled Very
tightly. Nothing relieves q heavy color bet
ter than q we'll chosen ponpon. Butterflies,
however, though there are some. very pretty
imported hats upon which these appear, are
not q pretty ornament for either hat or bonnet.
It is a. false and indeed q vulgar taste that
adopts what is not in the least adaptable.
The apsurdlty in fashion that shows Itself fin 80
many of its present phases Ia not In any sense
American, and while the costly and elegant
are now reconcilable let us not run after the
ridiculous, though 1t assumes another name,
In the hair, when dressed Tor q ball, ajewelled
butterfly may be admissible, but not upon a
bonnet nor a hat. JENNY JUNE.