The New York herald., 1872-08-01
The Indomitable Lion Of the
Hassler at Panama.
CURIOSITIES OF THE OLD TOWN.
Tumbled-D0wn Churches and Peals
Of Melancholy Bells.
BUTTERFLY EXCURSION TO SAN PABLO,
Beauties and Antiquities of the
Route and the Town.
UNITED STATES COAST SURVEYING STEAMER
HAssLER, PANAMA, July 20, 1872. J

UNITED STATES COAST SURVEYING STTANERl
HAssLER, PANAMA, July 70, 1871
We have been detained at this port much longer
nAn was anticipated, but the time has been very
peofltably employed. We have had numerous op-
portunitles for collecting specimens for the major
N Of which we are indebted TO tho kindness OF the
nuperintendent and officers Of the Panama Railroad
nnd to some of the residents OF Panama At no
place nnce leaving home have we been more cor
daily received or Hospitality treated, and no atten-
tDon which could add to our comfort Or facilitate
eur work has been omitted. The attractions OF the
pAce itself are not extraordinary. Panama Bay,
With Its rounded islets, Its low shore, its blazing
tropical sun, or, at this time OF year, Its
heavy mists and furious squalls, is
row better known than many places much
nearer home, aud the Journey across the Isthmus
6om ocean to ocean, once such novel and
m0mentous experience, has now become tame and
almost uninteres.ing from Its frequent occurrence.
Occasionally when setting sun lights up the
wooded slopes Of Mount Ancon and gilds the
ruined towers and moss covered walls OF the old
sity the scene acquires certain picturesqueness;
hut usually the bay. when calm, is monotonous
without having the beauty Of complete repose, or,
when agitated, is uncomfortable without reaching
the dignity and grandeur of storm.
THE TOWN OF PANAMA,
tAough superior in some respects to many Of the
ether Spanish-American coast towns, is yet in a
condition OF wretcned and apparently progressive
Decay. The houses and the streets are as dirty as
Z is possible for them to be at this season. when
tAcy are deuged once or twice daily, and the
native population lives in the most unpeasantly
primitive manner. Even among those whose
means would seem to warrant some comfort, If not
INV Is an Of
utensils which would be considered absolutely in
0ispensable to the family OF labOrlng man at
Nome, while at the same time they parade upon the
0eyeets clothing and jewelry the value of which
would more than furnish their houses. In their
habits they seem to have retained the indolence
cruelty and immortality of their Spanish and Indian
ancestors, without either their bravery or their In
tellgence. Their religion appears to consist prin-
Gpay of strict observance OF feast days. occurring
twice or thrice weekly, when they neglect all work
and devote their time to various popular forms OF
amusement. Among the latter arc what they dig
nifty with the name OF 'bu Observation-Disclosures bur-
esques upon the Old romantic spectacles--where
for the sand strewn arena Is substituted plaza,
ior the ''tiers upon tiers" of applanding and de-
kghted spectators-a mob Of hundred or two
Aah-grown boys and imbeeilo negroes-for the chief
natador, with his matchless horsemanshlp and
ewOrdplay, fellow with a tattered umbrella per-
forming various intrcat, manouvres at safe dis
el0us animal hmself-a poor Old, decrepit bovine
specimen, who would gladly lie down and sleep if
allowed to do SO by his torinentOrs. The number Of
RUINED CHURCHES
IN and around Panama is remarkable Out through
che suburbs and on nearly every street their tot
tering walls, overgrOwn with lichens and mOsscs
cannot fail tO attract the attention OF Visitors and
the two Or three which remain it for use seem rap
klly approaching the same condition. In the morn
1ngs and evenings the melancholy, unmeodiOus mo-
nOtOnc Of their bells sounds like prophecy OF their
ewn speedy dissolution rather than an invitation TO
yVAro a r.
cialIy said 10 have been deteroratDg for several
years from various causes, the principle ones
being the establishment of the Pacific Railroad
withdrawing the commerce between Califol Ria and
the Eastern states, and the success Of tl lnglish
taking large quantities OF freight from the Western
coast which used previously to be sent across the
Isthmus. OF the excursions which we have taken
here one OF the most pleasant was 10 some stations
en- the line OF the railroad. Dividing our party so as
70 utilize the time as much as possible, two stopped
St Obispo and two at San Pablo, six miles further
@, while Professor and Mrs. Ag,ssiz and DR.. Hill
remained at Nance, an intermediate station. We
Who went TO
were received with the greatest Kindness and cor
etaflty by the gentleman who resided there and by
HIS family, and we have cause to be exceedingly
grateful for their many hosptable attentions. Our
say there more than compensated for all the dis.
comforts OF Panama. Their cottage Is beautiful
Htele place, shaded BY cocoa palms, covered with
clustering vines, and commanding lovely view OF
grassy meadows and hsides covered with tropical
vegetation. 1t Is within a hundred yards Of the
Chagres renowned for the alligators which inhablt
jts waters and the malarial poison which hangs
about its shores though its reputation Is an eXag
oerated one in both these respects. One bank was
Partially cleared, but on the other dense
brest descended TO the waters edge, and
SOUNDS we wSich SHaa srose raa 'n from fhe hum
Qf insects. the twitter and chrping Of birds
the m0urnful cry OF the sloth, the howllng and
nhrteking OF monkeys and parrots, intermingIIng
with innumerable ana indescribabe noises. We
drew seine at several places. along the river and
obtained variety OF species Of small fish. The for
however. attractive
their sti angeness and their immensely. They cei>
tatDry far exceed In luxurance anything we have
yet seen, even those at Rio, though this may be
partly attributable to the difference OF seasons.
Penetrating them by narrow, winding mule or COW
paths or following up the beds OF streamlets there
vas something novel and wonderful at every step.
Under foot were irornnas bignonias and aristo-
lochias, with their white, purple and yellow now
ering out Of sight at the first touch as though they
eank into the ground; astride Of trunks OF fallen
trees perched ON boughs and stems were orchids
Of beautiful and fantastic shapes; the delicate,
waxy, taper-likc berries OF the wild pepper Biadc
CHRISTMAS trees OF the bushes; vanilla plants
ers, perlumed the air: overhead were cedars
oaks, palms, ocusts, Wild figs, bamboos, anims,
anu hundrcds oi unknown families, sending down
. ashowcr OF pendent llanos, while their stems, Of
oh conceivable shapes, sizes and colors, were en-
sncied 6y Al iacework , Of vines or furred with
trees was as remarkable their variety. Some
0f their trunks were fifteen or twenty feet In
diameter and "A hundred or q hundred and fifty in
height; some slender, smooth and bancblcss:
ethcrs gnarled and twisted sending out great
Rrareus-lke arms, and buttressed at the base 80
that the natives cut Off natural plapks for the
doors of their buts.
TUE BCrTERFIIrs,
which were the principal objects OF our search
were very numerous and OF ~ eat sile aud brilliant
coloring, but Ii was Impossible TO pursue them far
without being trpped up by crecper, held fast by
Z brjar or entanged in wthes. We found tnat Il
was better to wait In the vicinity OF certain
plant bearing white, odorifeEous flowers, around
which they futtered continually and at tha
place We caught many Of them. We mndc
several short trips up and down the road in the
nandcar used by our host IN his Inspection Of the
track and found IL delightful mode OF travelling.
n was very pleasant 10 be sent ahead at the rate
ol ntcei miles an hour, with view unbroscn ON