Green-Mountain freeman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1844-1884, 1872-12-18

BLACK silks.
! Black silk costumes have again proved 10 be
/ lie most popular Oi tie season. At various
-im ladies have declared themselves weary
/ ol black dresses, and have adopted the new
| mt; but they have Invariably returned To
/ black, since nothing else at once 80 dis
/ -inGuIsltd and 80 convenient He &c this
/ .iezant dress remains the fashionable uni
/ form lJr church, visiting. the theatre, the
/ promenade. ami is the -cmi-dress suit for al
/ ernOun weddings and receptions. The
.HUI. ct trimming f5r such dresses Is fine en-
JtOIdery on the hJuucts. elaborate let pas-
I -emeuteTIe with crimPed tape tringes, and a
quantity ot velvet N the way OF iac,ugs
vest. walscaat ard -a@hes, are next in favor.
/ Lace Is less used at this season than IN the
-priuk
I CaJhere douDees are made much fuller
I than formerly, aud kilt pIaits are wld, r.
9ewIuE-nachme stitching ~ not permit ed
I JJ apr ear on haL dsOme hOunc, E they are
finished instead with a rather vide hem,
turned up on the right side and sewed with
4 blind STITCHES velvet taclngs also edge
/ 4 4uncugs at top and bottom. The basque
with over-skiIt7 Is preferred Tor black silk
costumes; these are more stylish when fin
Ished with straight edges, such mI
nems, folds or f4cings, instead OF T flies.
Tie LOuts QuJnze style Is a iavorite design
| y
y Ivct. Black cashmere ami alpaca suits are
uniformly made with pJIona'se and single
skirt. Cashmere costumes may b. elaborate
lv trimmed with Jet and with failc sashes.
buJ thick plaitngs and f0uncings make tLese
dresses unCJm Ortaby heavy. Velvet and
cashmere are incongruOus, as they are differ
en- shad, OF black Alpaca dresses are Tor
service, and 1t Is grossly bad taste to cover
them with irlIis and hJunces. a tasteful
and smple trimming tor alpaca IS a deep
si1e-piuitn5 on the skirt, While the polou-
4lse has two bias bands prped on each edge
with a tiny fold OF the same.
TIE CuATkLAINE BODICE
The last ctprsce OF Partisan dTessmakers
is the rev val oi an antique cJrsage called the
chatelaiue bodice. his is q close-httlng
waist prolonged over The bips alter ash-
ION tcen ia oId pictures. 1t Is now fashion,
ably worn in thick materials OF solid
color, and should be confined 10 fue full hg
ules.
The tight sleeves now worn WILL it is said
revive the white lace or linen cuffs that were
formerly worn outside the sleeves. At pres
ert lrIls Of lace OF muslin falling on the
hand edge tue wrists OF close sleeves.
CoIFFUREs AND COMBS
The fashion OF wearing the Lair very high
is now fully established, bJJh TOR full dr., Is
and tor ordinary occasions. Huge chignOus
are ab JlIshed. and the hair Is dressed closely
t. the head, showing its natural contour, aud
allowing il TO be small possible. There
is scarcely any such thing as 50 back hair,
as it l. all cOmb bed straight upward from the
nape ol ,he neck and massed on top. If the
forehead Is low and broad, and the hair
thlckIy aud handsomely set, it is simply
parted sm otbly above the brow.
BraIds of three plated tresses are confined
TO colffures for day wear. They are wound
about the top OF the head, and a slightly
frlZzed piece tails from beneath the nOnt
over the forehead. IL Is necessary that the
hair be carried up very smoothly from the
uape of tie neck, and tits is done by means
of the old-time side combs. The Josephine
tress, very vide, thick and smooth, Is also
laid around the top OF the head, forming
close chignon, shaped like an inverted bowl
a cluster OF putfs fills the centre, and small
frizzed curls lail on the forehead.
A Paris correspondent of Frank LesLe's
LqeI7J s Journal gives some interesting fash |
ION gossIp. Evening dresses are now worn
there very rich, and of most splendid style.
Irain shaped tunes are all the fashion Tor
grand dinner parties and soirees. me are
also seen In the daytime, but this seems lar
less appropriate, unless 1t is tor grand recep-
tlons. visIIs or drives N a private equIpage'
FIR walking, the rain is now generally es-
teemtd botn inconvenient and IN bad taste.
simple toilet for family gatherings ls OF
white muslin and turquoise blue SILK. Inc
muslin skirt is trimmed with four gathered
fouuces of embroidered muslin; the lower
aIunce falls over finely -grufered plating
ot plain muslin, and the upper t'gnce Is
headed by stri p of insertion, lined with
blue and edged on either side with narro"
autIng Of blue elk. -. H.,
For young lady, white muslin dress
simply trimmed with lthered founce ana
bouilions, is looped up with bows over
emi-trained SKIRT Of mauve glace shK, triIn
med . ith deep plated hounce' heaoeI VIII
a biais. The low muslin oodice ls
hlonse-fasbion. with mauve belt round the