The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1872-09-17
WHEELING. w. VA TUESDAY MORNING. SEPTEMBER ~ 1872
Fall Fashinnn.

1uO AGW BhImeub VI WHICH IuUet u
seen and heard (among the ladles) Is the
Dolman. There are varieties OF this
wrap, but It's peculiar feature Is It's great
wing.like sleeve, or aside piece over the
arm hanging In q point below the, rest Of
the garment. The back may be either q
nearly fitted postillion with pleats, or else
q looser sacque with single seam up the
middle, slsshed over the tournure; but
the long sleeve over o coat sleeve, or else
the dropping side piece beginning high
on the shoulder, Is invRriable. In effect
the Dolman somewhat resembles the
bashlik of three years ago. 1t hangs close
TO the figure in graceful way, though not
belted down as the bashlIk was; II Is
easily put on and OF, as the arm opening
Is much larger than an ordinary armhole.
Inner sleeves Of coat shape are added for
warmth. Ladies' who have velvet or
cashmere sacques left from last year can
add TO them a deep pointed fall, beginning
at the shoulder point, extending far be.
hind, and disappearing under the arm in
'front.' this will give tho effect Of tho new
garment
They are mostly made Of velvet and
cashmere, trimmed with fur, Jet orna-
ments and fringe. Long Continental
vests, extending far below the waist, are
being made with silk and woolen suits.
They form the front OF polonaises, and
are usually Of a darker shade than the
dress proper. An olive brown cashmere
suit, with darker brown gross grain
vest revers, cuffs, and iacings Of flounces,
Is very stylish suit. Black silk suits
have black velvet vests. The newest
fancy has the dress corsage meeting at
the throat, conCealing the vest there, and
gradually widening to the end OF the
long vest. A lace spiral is added in the
back and troEt Of vest polonAises.
Instead OF being edged with ruflles Of
silk or Of lace, many basques are now
merely corded on the edges, or else finish.
ed with a piping fold in the way seen on
riding habits. This simple fashion is styl.
ish and inexpensive. Sleeveless basQIes
OF cashmere or OF velvet will again be
worn over silk bodies ol the same color,
with coat sleeves OF silk. Sleeveless polo.
naises have also grown into popularity. A
favorlte costume for iall has the skirt and
coat sleeves OF black silk, while the sleeve.
less polonalse is Of gray cashmere or Of
heavy gray rongee. A plum colored suit
Is made in the same manner Of cashmere
and taille. .., ...... :
Black silk costumes for the street show
kiltpleated or flounced back breadths and
sablier fronts Very full bias rufiles, with
box.pleated and kilt:pleated founces, are
the handmade trimmings, with en-
broidery, jet, passementerie, lace and
most elaborate fringes.
The beauty Of fall bonnets consists in
their rich fabrics, exquisitely combined
colors, their tinted feathers, bronzed
leaves and fine laces. OF their heteroge.
neous shapes there Is little to be said;
they are simply caricatures, and leading
milliners say they must be greatly modi.
ned to make them popular.
The most conspicuous change is in the
way the bonnet is to be worn. The head
covering, whether bonnet or hat, is TO be
placed tar back on the chignon, leaving
tho forehead and frizzed front hair quite
uncoVered-a fashion that milliners say
Is generally unbecomipg. High revers
coronets are on almost all bonnets, and
capes are scarcely seen at all. Long ends
and loops Of ribbon and lace, three or four
Of each, hang from the back OF the bon.
net low down on the shoulders. A folded
band encircles the crown, and the left side
Is the base from which spring trimmings
that pass directly across the crown. These
trimmings are usually two long wide loops
laid upward on the crown, sharp.point-
ed wing (blue.green wings are most used),
and two ostrich tips that curl over the
top to the right side, and give additional
height TO the crown. A Jet ornament is
on the right side, and sometimes a Jet
bandeau is in front. Bonnets and round
bats are trimmed similarly; their only
difference exists in the strings, and these
are often omitted from the new sailor hat.
-HarEer'1 Bazdr. ss,