Mower County transcript. [volume] (Lansing, Minn.) 1868-1915, 1872-11-21
Building Cisterns.

from the American k0Tm JO0I09ls
The best time to build cistern is when
the ground il dry, so that there is no wa
ter in tho ground. It is much easier to
cement dry wall than wet one and the
wall put up dry is more apt to be water
tight. First dig your cistern the required
size make the sides as smooth as. possible;
make the bottom about the shane of the
large end of an egg-the sides perpendic-
ular. Make your calculations to have
your arch far enough under the ground to
keep sfcm freezing. A four-inch arch is
sufficient for cistern under ten feet in
diameter. Over that would prefer nine
inches. Where the ground is solid the
arch is all the brick work that 10 needed.
After the arch is turned the next step is
to put on the cement This 10 tho most
particular part Of the operation, as a
wrong move there, will spoil the oistern.
Get the best quality of cement-if in the
East. the Rosedale, if in the West the
Louisville, Ky. This will cost miro per
barrel, but will be cheaper in the end.
Employ a good mechanic, and attend to
mixing the cement yourself. Do not trust
t. u careless hand. Take one bucket Of
cement, and two oil clear, sharp sand.
Put in just enouSh water to mix, and mix
thoroughly with hoe, and have it put on
without tempering over. Repeat the pro.
cess until one heavy coat is on. II the
cement is good, by the time the first coat is
on 1t will be dry enough for the second or
last ono, which should re light one, put
on smooth, and with as little troweling ss
possible.
Brush the walls with thin waah made
by mixing cement to water about the con.
slstency of whitewash and the Job is COM
pleted; and the cistern ready for the water
any time after forty.e,ght hours. 1t would
be well where the cement is put on the
ground to layla fiat stone or smooth brick
on the bottom to receive the force ct the
water from the receiving pipe, which
should pass throug h the arch four.inch
drain pipe will answer the purpose, also u
pipe ct the same size for an outlet. about
the bottom of the arch, will be found con.
venient. The end Of the outlet should be
secured 30 rats could not make an en-.
trance.
Commence cementing at the top-first
the arch, then the sides, last the bottom!
where the ground is not solid q side wall
and bottom will be necessary. Commence
by laying course Of bricks fiat around
the bottom. Then take plasterer's trowel
and spread the hei ght Of brick on the
sides, place your bricks on end, fiat side to
the wall, and hit it sufficiently hard to
make it adhere to the walls. Continue
until course is laid. Repeat until YOU
are high enough for the arch, then con.
t'nue fiat until you have only space for a
man.hole. In six.foot arch une foot rise
is sufficient; larger arches should have
more'rise. Put in the bottom with cement.
Cement the same as in the first cistern.
except that the first coat should not be- 30
thick. The advantage Of putting bricks
on end is, it takes less brick, leaves no
cracks behind for Stops, and saves half the
labor inlaying.
Where filter is wanted, and think no
clstern tor house use is furnished without
one, the following is the cheapest plan
and as good as the best. Build q circular
wall in tue middle Of tho cistern large
enough 10 set your pump in-say three
feet ie diameter. Make it as high AZ the
bottom OF the cistern arch, using soft
bricks; lay in cement. A four.inc wall
is sufficient. The water will filter through
the brick and be very pure. Such filter
does not Deed renewing about every oven
years.
For cistern feet in diameter and ~
feet deep, with capacity of 80 barrels, 2
barrels Of cement and 100 brick are re-.
CURED; for the arch alone, 500 brick.
For cisteru 6 feet in diameter and s feet
deep, with capacity Of SIS barrels, l barrel
otcement and 900 brick will be required;
tor arch alone, 300 brick. For cistern
3 feet IN diameter and Il feet deep, with
capacity of $50 barrels, barrels Of
cement and 1000 brick will be required:
tor arch alone, 700 brick. MEcHAS1c.