New-York tribune., 1872-02-29
TIE FASHIONS.
WHISPERS OF SPRING.
THE LENTRN PAsr-NEw DOLLY yAeDENs-Ns"
sryIps cprToyNE. LINEN, AND LINGERIE

din, and thu ar,ival fn and frolc have ceased with
the Lenten Fast Robed In ssdcolored garnent we cry
"Peccavimus" Graceful penitents, with Wnite nus o
upon prayer books sigh, From sin froin the cIai u
assaults OF fashion while charming new thingS- -
most comprehensive wOrdie perdp, aWaitnS tho PeS''
Of opening day."
Ladies' have never been better dressed than at the
present time. glance at the toilets in the streets WI"
convince OF this fact II ia because ther co9'u'
have been Of dark black tints, producing
effect Iand dsin0< air. Ladies OF taste, ana tac' o
are beginning to dress with graceful attention TO age
inclined to eb0npoint the sau0y lhat ana tea'heiy NJ
grette at the SIDE give grOtesque appearance winch
would he decidedly piquant for the young iady oi '
French axiom Ia TO be believed women are never oid
until they have ceased to inspire love- 1t Is necessary
to avoid all that will expose to rdicule The ronndneSs
and bloom OF carly youth never be counrieoo pu
the delicate traces Of time DO hidden soiteneu ooneu
down by Judgment in knowing how to dress In accord
ance with age and style OF beauty The fashionable
foes that made our great great grandmothers bewtch
ing have reproduced during the past season Fo"
dered and curled cofGges; dSeoetee ana lOnR-uahou
dresses-sashed, draped bOEGcn-one can see IN them
revived the portraits Of ancestors ana Ving copies
Of old fashion plates satire upon severe Republican
gnpcity 1t il only in the street that these fOues III
dress are ignored
There are few signs OF what are 10 wear yet VsDe
Naturally the irske hues cOnsecrated 10 e FTtn'enps
are the sought for and cool the feVersn desro o
muslns and laces to welcome the reign OF our PretS
Princess Coquettsh Dolly Vardens being more popular
than ever there arc charming French and English ore
tonnes brought especially for this most saucy ana
Incoming OF polOnases. The figures upon 'ho
hlack brown gray or pearl grounds are dell
cously natural and rather smaller than the cretonhes
OF last year. Buds halfconcealed in mossy cay1 nse
oareessly with godeneyed psnsies and hOatng tohase
Great crimson with long tendrs OF vines roch
over creamy tinted grounds, and black Violet anu
hn.. afa nnan
from nearly background The most popular coors Will
hs in HACK and buff or eream-cOlOred grounds. The
DolIv Warden calico is coming in In immense quantities.
at 45 and 60 cents yard 1t to be understood tna
these polOnases only worn Wltn Oiach sAH''
either OF silk salpaca, beaver mohalr, but always
black For these yet Wintry days, beautrui Empress
cloths for Dolly Vardens imported hn black grounds
Gorgeous with rich bouquets OF every conceVabe mower
known TO botanists and many unknown. Worn draped
with loops OF black velvet black skirt, the home
circle ia wonderfully frightened by mulhphcity OF
fascinating Dolys These goods are 81 Is yard Eight
wards will make an ample and long polonaie admitting
OF much draping.
We are 10 have charming costumes In linen. percale
and other spring materials by and by. which are
aIroa5v Oarnshed with bleached and unbeached lace
and fringes. Berlin sends us these Then there Is
another SOFT all-wOol fabric exceedingly pretty
withal Of French cretonne. perfectly plain, solid
color. II acts as body-guard 10 the hBured
chiutzea For instance, IL tho former,
the underskirt vest .under-sieeves; 1t is double
width and so to 90 cents yard About nine yards WI"
be reouired-or eightaccOrdng TO ones size and ideas
about the ouncng thereof OF the figured crtonne to
wear over this must the Dolly Warden be made, or
plain overskirt and basque, the latter open IN
front and shaped away in order to disclose the
vest 1t may be added that in this seasons goods
an innovation is made and bouquets or flowers
are not altogether the rule as araoesques in every
species OF geometrcal design found In very bright
tints plain ground OF black or neutral shade'
Pretty new cambrics visible suggestive OF break
tables upon which lie early salads, with primrose
for the butonhoe and young green vines peepng In at
open windows. They lie tantausike upon counters as
yet snowy grounds which blush tiny buds IN PINK
and blue and faint violet There Others In sitter
styles of the nvariable rghtangles squares, and line
stripes in black which will do for Mrs. Gradgrind, hut
never for enchanting Dolly Warden.
The philanhropists OF the furnishing houses are pre-
pairing Spring costumes in cashmere silk and alpaca as
we'll In modest fabrics. Spring suits Of the beau
tifu glossy Otter and Buffalo brand" alpaca will be
very fashionable well IN the always avorte ana
O.stin0ue Beaver brand mohair." Soft carressante
cashmere continues to be largely imported and patron
sed only In black but in all faint and delicate tns
Something new is the citron greenish yellow shade,
also a grave olive green These are for pOlOnaises
OF the Marguerite, Berence and Beatrice shapes,
over silks Of the same shade. or black They range in
price from 81 SO to 81 yard Another cool fabric for
Summer, which Will be very popular, Is caueu batlste
This exceedingly strong in texture. though thin and
wiry and made of unbleached fax. 1t will make most
charming costumes "when Summer days are long" AS
these dresses are to be extensively RULED and
broidered by hand 1t well to purchase, make up,
aud embrolder during these quiet days Of Lent in an
tcipaon of the advancing season. More popular than
ever will be white, in pawns Organdies, and Victoria
lawns Swiss muslin suits will also be fashionable as
last Summer and now. exQuisitely made up in
such Of fairy like hutngs pubngs, rulings, and
houncings Is seized with irresistible longing TO
throw of ones Winter coat OF furs aud things, and
strsightway become purified in white attire.
Another material is the Japanese pique which is
not only pretty but very cheap The goods twlled
like lean, and are to be found IN boxes with the
breadhs cut into proper lengths, and trimming ready
plated, all for the low price OF Is and IS.
Many changes are found in underclOthing for ladies'
wear The elaborate braiding and open work embroid
cry are now obsolete. Tucking, rufng and trimming
with the now Standard ruffng and plating are the
favorite styles for cotton garments For linen, en-
brodery is the trimming par ereeece Double bands Of
linen closely embroidered in rich. thick, and heavy
patterns sold quite elegantly made here as in
Germany or France. And ladies find this dainty hand
work fascinating than working upon canvas impos-
sibe dogs heads extraordinary oats, or ROsnsnes OF
horses. In purchasing linen for IIagerie. csrelee1
shoppers very prone to be deceived TO getting
pure quality, and find to their disnay that it assumes
after being washed cotony look and feeling in fact
cotton Is largely mixed In the warp OF linen, and 10
requires experienced eye detect the real There
Is linen OF pure Irish manufacture all linen. strong
6ne and excellent wear in fact every thread bearing
the closest scrutiny purity and durability set OF
under garments ofths linen. embroidered, would be to
each womsns heart " thing Of beauty" and almost
"joy forever"
After enduring for years the cold, rgid tyranny Of
linen collars It amazing how rapidly their popularity
wsned d, when it discovered how extremely becoming
hn atann nf NJ
charming TO note the increase all the
ries tha toilet The dnnhe standing rRfies