, 1872-11-10
THE FASHIONS.

usoA both Tor dinner and carriage toilets. These
dresses 1ro often OF silk and velvet combined:
having the upt1ss skirt, basque ana pocAets 81
arc Of silk or else cashmere Is used in the place
OF velvet, with silk Of the SAME shstle border
of silver fox fur OF Of black marten to often nsea
as q trimming. Some Of the most elegaut Dlaek
costumes aro Of this desgn party ta;ne s+ Inu da.
scribed. Co1orod silk suits ara sometimes
trimmed with velvet plating or bias friil,
edged with lcce, fringe O. perhaps only ruihe
Of silk on the velvet. Suits made entirely OF
Lbuis Qunze dresses Of tho blue-gray silk and
velvet OF plum-colory olive, London smoke and
very dark garnet are imported by the modlstos,
and sold for $500 or 3A0o. There is usually
bonnet to match, make Of the velvet ana ialue; s
fully runled un1er-sleoyes, complete the cos
time.
Ono Of tho most comfortable, graceful, and
useful garments nov In fashion ID double
breasted rcdingote Of 1sdleB' cloth, cashmere,
venient oithor as al independent wrap to wear
with various skirts, or olse as part OF suit for
shopping, travelling, aud general use. 1hese
are made in a simple fashion, and are plainly
large buttons. The skirt with which they are
worn may be OF cloth to match, or Of cashmere
with deep killing; if q richer toilet is desired,
faille skirt, or one Of slk-faced VelTeteen,
III ubeu4 1Atlo ~ u lAaCy A6l0 AV4 A@A-
ingotes Of rough canals hair, either gray
or brown, thickly wrought with wool embrol-
dery. The dress-skirt is then silk or velvet. and
may be either black, brown, or gray. For
full suit Of cashmere there can DO no better
model than this pattern. The revers, cuffs, and
belt with sash should be thick gros grain OF the
same shade az the cashmere, lineu with stiff
foundation net. A plain dress-waist is needed
underneath the rcdin5ote.
Instead of breakfast sacques for ladies, the
fur1iahinr b2useA nrn Offering sailor blOuSo8 or
| navy blue cloth, not beted but gathered by q
| rubber band in the hem in the way children's
blouses are made. Thsy have large sailor col
lars Of white, pale blue, or scarlet cashmere,
For undermining black silk dresses Of last
year, We commend the now scarf over-Bkirt, as
| it is stylish, easily made, and does not cut up
the material It is simply four yards OF silk
| trimmed around with narrow lace and jet passe-
menterie. Take the middle of the scarf, and
fasten it at the top by hook and loop to the
| middle OF the dress skirt just below the belt :;
then pass it around the sides, leaving the front
to form wrinklod apron, and tie up the back IN
long loops and snshes. band Of black velvet,
facing, or q simple hem sometimes serves for
| trimming.
Among French lingerie are dainty camisoles of
India muslin, with many rows of Talonciennes
insertion down the front, and Jabot Of shells OF
lace down their entire length. These are lined
throughout with rose or blue silk. Tullo bodlces
made Of alternate puffs of finest tulle with bands
OF Valencionnes insertion have bows OF faille
ribbon and sashes to match. These are worn at
| dinner parties with skirts OF black or colored
silk and sleeveless basque Of black velvet,
made With heart-shapcd neck, and trimmed with
thread lace and transparent insertions. Braces
or bretelles OF black velvet ribbon, with sashee
Of colored China Grape trimmed with point
duchesae lace, are among the small and dIessy
extravagances.
| FOR GENTLEMEN.
The novelty for business suits is their short
jaunty. double-breasted coat, generally callee
the pea-jacket. The suit is made Of dark mix
threads Of white. The entire suit, coat, vest
and pantaloons is made from the same piece O.
cloth, and costs from 375 to S85. The overcoa
for such suits is long sacque OF rough cloth
such as Elysan and fur beavers.
Semi-drees suits for church, visiting, ETC., ar
made of black or blue cloth with raised curlet
! perpendicular lines, or indented checks, or tn
basket-woven goods, instead Of the diagonal
go long worn: The whole suit made Of TN TN
fabric costs 985. The coat is the double-breast
! ed Prince Albert, with longer skirts than thos
of last season; the vest ia single-breasted, wit
: notched collar, and buttoned high to wear wit
scarf; both coat and vest are bound; the par
falcons are Of medium width, shaped to th
limbs. Sometimes the single-breasted cut-awa
Newmarket coat is preferred for this suit. B
way OF variety, an extra pair Of pantaloons
4 provided to wear with this cont and vest. Thes
are made Of thick rough;surfaced Scotch mi.
|
black grounds with white lines, or d flint sue
geBtion Of warmer color. Price 800.
There is an effort to introduce for earring
wear the English driving coat, Of light drab {
I breasted, with collar of the same, and two row
. . Of buttons down the front.
There is no change in full-dress suits. The
remain OF solemn black, with swallow-taile
. coat, low-rolled collar, and pantaloons all mat
> from the same roll Of broadcloth.
Il 1 The Errliaf nvarc0pt for nnArA and other fuj
= = dress occasions is the double-breasted surtou
: Instead of this Ight-ftting garment, the prefe
a. ence here is for loose, easy suck overcoas
light grey or creamy brown cloth.
I' Dressy silk hats for gentlemen are taller ths
!. + usual. Their crowns are elx and q half inch
u high, and of moderate ball shape; the brin
> are two inches wide with open D'Orsay cur
j. and not much roll. Price So
UndreBs hats for business are OF still felt vi
is stiff crowns about 5 inches deep, and almo
1t square; the brim is inches wide, aud shaped Ii
those just described for silk hats; price SO. NJ
IL soft felt hats have slightly tapering high crowr
10 with curved brim heavily rolled on the side
The best quality cost 56. Black felt hats a
al smoke color are seen.
10 soal-skin and otter cape collars, and glov
q, are the fashionable furs for gentlemen. T.
N favorite fur cap is O. seal-skin Canadian tnroa
g. or as hatters say, band turban. This b
high, soft crown, with q wide, stiff band,
n brirn, turned up all around and close against t
5Z crown. They cost from $40 to a25; Seal tri,
ming for overcoats will be much worn Il
ce winter. This is border or facing for the wht
IN coat, with cuffs and collar Of seal. Ent
as oycrcoats and short, double-breasted jackets
9, seal skin are also shown for mid-Winter.
's There is no change in the fashion OF sh
re- fronts. Doubled linen bosoms with three col
stitched q quarter Of an inch from the edge, q
re- just outside Of the eyelet-holes, remain popu
I'D for general use. 4 slight vine Of very f
I'd needlcwork is added for dress occasions,
ae else a medallion Of embroidery is wrong
around the stude. These bosoms are uBua
ct interlined, making them "three-ply," that tt
may retain tho starch better, and are sloped h
be an inch narrower al the bottom than the top,
prevent breaking in the middle. Such boso
ps wear far better than those made with plai
sd For conservative gentlemen who have alws
worn plaits, and will always wear them, no N
at ter what is the fashion, bosoms are made "
= one wide plait on each side Of bo1-plait in
TO middle, or else two narrower plaits are on a
tn side, making four in all. The French yoke 81
is the favorite shape. Wamsutta or New z