The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1872-09-18

orange, fg and guava trees that the traveller, il
approaching from the shore, finds himself in h,
village almost before be sees the irst cottage
1t has perhaps two hundred inhabitants, and il
the centre OF a lOGrishing trade in pull. goa
skins and hides. There are here six stores, two
churches, one sugar mill, and several tradesmen:
shops. 1t is not easy TO find another such a cosy
spot in our group, where thrift and contentmeni
are so marked as in this Ultima tIu5s of Hawaii
which is the nearest pert to the volcano. 1t must
have been of some such spot as this that the poet
sung
"Oh, had sonle bright little isle OF our own,
Ia blue summer OCEAN far Of and alone,
Where leaf never die in the still blooming bowers
And the bee banquet through whole year of flowers;
Whore the sun loves to pause
With 50 fond delay,
That the night only draws
A thin veil DER the day;
whore simply to feel that we breathe that We live
worth the best joys that life elsewhere can sive
or course in such paradise as this every want
of the traveller could be supplied. Horses, the
chief want in this case, were abundant, and
care was needed to select sound and welLshod ami
mails fitted for such hard tramp as was contem-
plated. After the usual bargaining and palaver-
ing with the natives, which forciby reminded US
of Gorgona and Chagres, when 49ers" had to
cross the mountains a: Panama, each traveller
mounted his steed which he faucied would pass
inspection under any war department. The
charges were high, but not exorbitant. being Sl5
for each animal, for the round trip from Waio-
hinu to the summit and back, and S. more per
head, if the animals were left in Hilo. The pack
mules and horses for servants were subject to the
same charges.
About niue o'clock Thursday morning. Sep
TENDER 5th, our cavalcade of mountaineers,
twenty in number including servants, galoped
out of the village, much to the wonderment OF
the staring natives. some taking the lower road,
which lies along or near the shore, and others
the mountain road. In wet weather the lower is
preferable bat in pleasant weather the upper
road affords a much cooler and less fatiguing
ride. The view from it in passing over the hills
and through the groves which skirt the mountain,
is delightfully."- picturesque. Above you Mauua
Loa rises in ridge after ridge, till lost in the
clouds, while q thousand feet below you the dry
and black lava plains stretch toward the sea, and
the senated shore is white with the breaking
Surf as far as the eye can reach, in either direc-
ton.
Night brought the party to Kapapala, some
seeking lodgings at the house of Judge Lyman,
at present occupied only by natives but most of
them going on to the ranch of Mr.. Chas. f.
Richardson, who kindly entertained his unexpect-
ed guests to the extent of his ability The dis
tance from Waiohiuu to Kapapala is q miles,
over good road.
Here the FIRST perpleXity was met-there was
no guide to be had, and one of the returning trar
elers from'the summit gave rather discoursgng |
picture of the troubles and dangers, attending |
the ascent. Only one person, Kawaha native |
in the employ Of Mr.. Richardson, was known to
be competent to act rs guide, and he had been
compelled to return from the summit sick and
completely Frustrated with the journey Money
would not tempt him to undertake the ascent at
present. Under this aspect of affairs, two of the
party abandoned the ascent, and started of for
HilO.
The only alternative now left was to send for q
half-caste, Mr.. Henry GandaIl, living four miles
distant, and urge him to pilot the party to the
summit He had been up only once, and it was
uncertain whether he would be willing to 90. He
was found some miles up the mountain at work
in he pull district and the somewhat exhorbit-
ant offer of City dollars settled the question. He
is native of Hawaii, bullock hunter, and knows
every trail and track on the southern slope of
Mauna LOa, at least as high as wild cattle roam.
Our party, now reduced to twelve tourists,
guide and five attendants,-lS in aIl,-and toler-
ably well stocked with provisions and other
which had been collected here and
there, without any system or fore thought left
Kapapala for the summit at 3P of the 9th.
The road for the first seven miles ascends quite
gradually, and skirts along the forest belts. 1t is
simply bridal path, leading through the worth !,
ess OF weed, which kills grass and weeds, and !,
lenders the land where it grows worthless.
At P. N, we reached Captain Ellis ranch, ;
even miles from Kapapala. This is farmhouse I,
I'D cattle station located on grassy plat, just
1t the lower edge of the forest, in the frost re-
''SIi f'SoSy WIZ hiSnCSb dNcilttH III IAuu. l.
The Captain appeared quite non-plussed at the
udden appearance Of SO many horsemen, and as !,
Don he found they were unarmed and lmpeI. ,
ed with no murderous designs welcomed the
trangers with true sailors heart, to share for
he night his humble thatch cottage and frugal
are. a tent which We had with US, was pitched, :
nd served to accommodate some, while Others :
lept in the house. :
At 6 o'clock on Saturday morning, after an
arly breakfast, seasoned with delicious ice-cod Il
utter and milk, as ricli as any onnge County h
rOducts, and provided each with a bottle of h
'ater, and etceteras. we again mounted our ami !,
lals, and headed for Mokuaweoweo," the sum-
lit crater. Our road from this point lead through
he forest-not dense jungle, but 4 succession
koa and ohia groves, ami of easy ascent;
lough we rode slowly, preferring not to tire our
limals, on their unaccustomed journey An
lsy three hours ride brought Us to the Camp
g Ground" near the upper. edge of the forest
alt-nina miles from Cantain Kills. md six.aa,