The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1872-04-05
r1ennle Jur e,s Fashion Letter.l

NEW YORK, April l.
April should be pleasant month this year
for 1t gives us with its first incomings Easter
flowers, Easter festivities and Easter fashions
Not that Lent has been dull by any means; fol
since religion Is fashionable, even Lenter
season has its bright side, and we have had
Nilsson to give 1t additional attraction. Bul
fashion does not take naturally to penitence,
though sottened by manifold lndulgences,
and therefore the advent of Easter with Its
ga!ety and fresh toilettes is heartily welcom-
ed, and one can be as fashionable and as pi
Gus as one pleases. In fact, you cannot be
fashionable without being plous.
The age Is really golden one for the pas.
tots and churches. They are the pets oi
Thousands of women who have nothing 10 do
and who find In the batteries and attentions
they receive in the little committee meetings
anc sewing societies. in the business OF get
ting new cushions and surplices, and dressing
gowns and school libraries, just the mild and
refined sort of dissipation which fills up the
gap In their lives, and rescues them from tue
dreariness of isolation ana INSANITY. men
consider it rather an amiable weakness than
otherwise, and besides 1t leaves them free to
attend to ihelr own matters; 80 they willingly
hand over the funds lor church purposes, ano
are proud of wife who is sought as "dtrect-
ress" of this, that, OF the other, because It
adds somewhat to their social importance ana
the family respectability.
How different Is this rose leaf and well-to.
do religion from that which hid itself away in
tie caves and corners Of the earth; which was
despised and prosecuted OF men; which had
neither form nor comeliness, and no beauty
Ik nnn hor rHl ~
recognize 1t as the same thing. Neverthelesa,
1t Is very pleasant; one cannot help liking It.
It Is as fine, In its way, as an opera, to 60 to
church On Easter morning and hear Inc an
thems and the carols sung oy precisely lne
same voices that gave the grand concert at
two dollarsa ticket last week; TO see the nlsn
altar decorated with costly hot-house flowers,
instead of thorns; TO see the white-handed
minister. with his throng of female worship.
pers, and to watch the advent or the ladles OF
bis family as they rustic up the aisle 10 the
latest Of Paris toilets. It is nice, Whe:her IL
theatre or dry goods store, 1t Is just the sort
of thing that people are willing to pay for.
EASTER TOILETS.
The American grande dame has passion for
rich silk. Whether 1t Is the rustic, or the gloss,
or the soft simmer which reflects back thou
sand lights from It's surface, or whether travel
ling back over the past, 1t Is the desire Wnlcn
some bsrd-working, housewiiely aDcestress
was never able to crafty Tor the bravery OF
t!silken attire" Whatever may be ine cause
the fact remains the same, the American, ana
especially the New York lady, never feels
t'dressed,r excepting in soft thick elk, which
faces her about In every direction, and mas
nothing s'patchy" like different colored SACK,
or woollen overskirt, to disturb ner
equanimity. 1t is no use talking up Ger
man 'materlal" costumes as cheap, service
able, and truly economical. The delicate
nose turns up with q sniff at their
dullness, ungalnliness, and impracticabili-
ty, and pays out without murmur huodred
and fifty dollars, Instead OF fifteen, for the dner
design, the softer, more yielding fabric. Gray
stufs, gray cashmere, gray alpaca. may be the
livery Of woe In France, but why should we go
into mourning because France has been un-
fortunate? ASK hundred gay and brilliant
bellies who find baskets of Easter flowers at
their bedsides when they wake In the morn:
invitation 10 this grand party and that elegant
reception! No wonder that, IN the intoxica-
ton, everything Is forgotten but the desire 10
shine, and lights are turned on gorgeous SILKS
and delicate laces, aud existence made 10 TURN
on the pivot of their possession.
The new fashions OF tints and c0lors have
struck the cultivated fancy of society women,
and made them all eager for new spring toi-
lettes, The tinted iailles are wonderfully
lovely, and those who can afford costumes
complete of single tint are confident of being
well dressed. At the great spring exhioitlons
the best feature, by far, consisted OF the new
faille silks array ed in series of three differ
ent shades to color, and In an infinite varie-
ty of wood, brown, golden, buff leaf, snake,
sand and shell tints. It was heartrending to
see these beautiful and costly fabrics. upon
which art and skill seemed to be exhausted,
and then 60 up stairs and examine the elabo-
rately ugly and bunched.up costumes Into
which they were made, and In which every
particle OF their beauty seemed to be lost.
The styles were those Of three years ago
short, tucked-up oversklfts, ruched and rui-
fed, and bowed and feathered; skirts hounced.
and ruched and bowed also; basque ditto,
forty or fifty yards of material used, and IN
finite labor expended, to make ugliness trans
cendant.
The ssDolly Warden" polonaise and over
skirt seems to have given the cue for the res
toration Of bumps, aud pannler skirts are
more bouffant than ever. and the lanElness Of
the lower part ofthe skirt (hoops not now
being worn by ladies with any pretensions TO
fashion) renders the excessive tOnrnure all
the more conspicuous and absurd. The "girl
of the period" style, which has been the mex
haustble theme of the comic papers for years
r,ast. has returned upon us In full force, with
peaked crowned hats on the top OF the chiS-
non to render the foolery more complete.
'sDoLLY vARDENs."
More about the sDolly vardens" may Seem
auperfuous to readers who are du tdn In the
new spring styles. and who have sense enough
to attach to this fashion just the amount OF I'M
portance which it deserves, and no more.
But the excitement In regard to it., as
erinced in numerous letters. and the mixed
idees with regard to the special mission OF
WDolly Warden" which prevail among young
ladies In the rural districts, make 1t necessary
to be explicit at the risk Of being tedious. and
repeating twice told iale. The dolly Var
den" then is simply punched up oVerdress
suit In antique style, and made OF any fow-
cred material, which most resembles old
fashioned chintz bedroom furniture. The
French call it the "Walteau," which belongs
to The same period and is precisely similar.
except that the Vatican" has generally been
worn as a "fapcy" dress, and made In rich
material, while the "Doly Warden" (who was
the pretty daughter OF q llackemith) came up
from the ranks, and was first introduced IN
lowered cotton chintz to- mourning wear,
and has only recertly been promoted to BLK
and brocade. In the city "Dolly Warden
could never be worn In the street, but In the
country, upon occasions, they will undouoted-
" be adopted by young girls, and will answer
admirably for the promenade, and the early
visit to tbe springs at The watsring-places.
Tn making them care must be taken not