The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-03-03


yet become voluntary scavenger, gathering up the
dirt and fifth OF The street upon her dress skirt to
be carried into ner house, Is question wnlch mas
yet TO be sOlved.
the skirt just touching the ground in the back,
and fairly conceaRg the foot IN front, seems to be
the regulation standard: but one just escaping
ground all around Is preferable III II IS desirable to
train skirt can easily shortened the street Dy
means OF tapes or cords underneath, or buttons and
loops near the ton, on TIE outside which are con-
cealed by the poi0nalse or overskrt.
II has become matter OF course Almost for the
past lew seasons, to say that the polonaise is stll
the eadihg garment botn Tor house ana street wear;
ana yet, although so widely patrOnIZed, It's popu-
larlty Is sun increasing, and until some garment Is
invented that possesses the sane advantages 10 re-
commend IL, the poonalse WI. not De abandoned.
IL Is convenient, combining what was formerly two
garments into one, quite as economical as the
basque and oversklrt, and withal Is becoming, the
one great desidelatum.
The styles In this garment are so varied that 1t
would seem almost impossible Tor anything new 10
be designed; yet 1.-THE cry Is still they come" The
leading designs are IN what Is known as the "Mar-
gLerite" styie-plain for short distance below the
waist with much fulness below, usually impaired
bv deep box-plais lad IN the seams. These are
should be adopted with caution by tall persons with
very slender figures
At Mme Demorests emporium me most charm
ing designs SHOWN III these and all other gar
ments Tor ladies ana children. The speciality at
this establishment Is the enclosing OF ali patterns
III envelopes winch nave large illustration OF the
design and fun directions Tor putting together
printed on the back. This Is OF the greatest assist
ance 10 all, and especially tO amateur dressmakers:
Here We found the d'sttngue 'Fllna"
those inclined toward e.soon ,,s ,in. a.. ,I rne
point around which the skirt sets up IN grace
1uily 0ouBdnt style This Is especially intended Tor
house wear, although not Inappropriate to COM
plete handsome costume de promenade. A
unique design Is the ''lsola" winch has plain
Poonaise 'front.' with the skirt IN the back attached
TO u short basque IN PECULIARLY disposed bOx-plaits
Then there - the ''Dolly Varden," JaAnty coquet-
usn ana Just suited TO the materials when bear the
mn anna IN WI Ia nln
For thuse who admire the effect OF the draped
apron and basque Is the ''Haldee," which has
back in the Marguerite style. the 'Dean' has the
plai,s proceeding from the wais line IN the back;
which is particularly intended to be worn with
skirt trimmed en- td6tier.
FILLING OUT IN THE BACK
A peculiarly OF most OF the new designs In polo.
naises Is tnat all the luness Is massed In the back,
leaving the front and sides quite plain. They are
somewn nat shorter than last season, which might be
matter OF congralulation the score OF economy,
but that the material saved IN the length OF the
upp>r garment Is usually doubled and added TO the
quantity necessary Tor the hlgh skirt garnlture.
which Is not unfrequently tnree-quarters OF yard
Another distinguishing feature is the addition to
most OF them OF snort capes reaching about TO the
the leading ones being known as the " broadway"
and the promenade"
For dem-satson wear. either en- suite or to be
made in cashmere, for use with variety Of suits,
are the graceful "Marquise," ''Countess' and 'Du-
cheese" mantes; the Two former in the style OF the
double talma with a plat en- cascade down the
back. These are most charmingly made in prin'
cred, ana in black drap d'ete, trimmed with gu.
pure lace and handsome passementerle.
graceful ackes. the ohsantine, and n sae Lulu
both novel and recterCI6 In design.
CHAT ABOUT BAsQUES.
Basques OF every conceivable shape and to
SUIT all tastes. The position mas been greatly
S1s r Of 5s po an Of 1Pa
style. The "Mignon" is decidedly unique. and GER
tain to attain prestige, and tne "lmogen'' happily
combines the postlllOn With small square tabs. All
these are trimmed To simulate vests, and the latter
is an excellent design for riding habit
Vests are still very fashonaby worn, and when
not made separate from the basque. are simulated
by the trimming. The latter arrangement Is by lar
the most preferable as better Ut Is secured, and
1t IS cooler for warm weather different material,
and frequently contrasting color, IS used with
pointed, square and round, the longer ones being
chosen by ladies' inclined towards e1aoOnpO,nt.
:. Sleeves are both close and fowlng-tne close or
Huguenot sleeve vyng with the demi-wlde and
"sabor sleeves Tor street wear. The two latter are
used for ordinary house wear, the flowing sleeve for
more dressy occasions and the sleeve Pantique for
full evening reception dress. The antique sleeve
Is very simple in shape, being straight, like coat
pointed scalloped, and bound. Two or three
plaitings OF tue Or TALL OF lace finishes the edge,
and a how Is placed OIL The back AT the elbow
The Stella IS a modification OF the sabOt sleeve,
and Will surely become a Iavorite for both house
uncomortape, nor too wide to be IN the way. The
Duchesse Is also favorite stNle, apd The Evae COM
bnes the comfort the coat sleeve with the grace
THE QUESTION OF ovERsK1RTs.
Notwithstanding the prestige OF the polonase
Overskrts are by no means entirely abandoned. but
resemble In style as closely as may be the skirts Of
the rival garments ihey are much shorter
like the pOlOnalses, have most Of the fulness
massed in the back. PAIN aprons Will be most IN
ravcr, but the draped ones are so generally becom.
ing that they nave not been abandoned. Especially
worthy oil notice are the Lerllna and Juliet, Dotn
with plain aprons, and the latter most artistcally
three points. Another style, wnich Is sure to be-
come a leading one, is ihe Ev9ngeline, with
draped apron, which meets in the back under
SASH, and the back par, falling square and deep.
THE LITTLE ONES NOT FORGOTTEN
children are not forgotten. Misses may nave their
spring suits made up after the graceful "Florence.n
the pOl0naise OF which Is Ornamented over the
shoulders With capes disposed III novel design; or
the 'Ethel'' which Is simple, vet stylish The
to be worn with skirt with nigh garnlture, and the
Eva" Is especially remarkable for the style OF
looping. For large boys Is the Horton" SUIT:
Tue Mateot suit" to be completed by q scarlet or
BoNNErs AND ROUND HATS.
The threatened revival oil the Old-fashi0ned coal
scuttie bonnet, under the shadow .0f which our
grea t-grandmothers lived and were happy has not
as yet been accomplished and we may rest content
for thu season, at least IN the happy possession OF
little IN shape and general style from those OF the
Hats ana bonnets still SO closely resemble each
other that hat can he easily used as a bonnet or q
bonnet for hat simply by adding or removing the
sInngs. The high, pulled crown Is a feature OF
both. supplemented III the bonnet Dy narrow front
and small curtain ana In the leading style Of hat
the Henry Ill. toque, by narrow dropping brim
all around For deDltsdtsOn these are made In
falle SILK usually matching with the material or
garniture OF the costume, and ornamented with
combination OF lace ostrich tips and lowers the
nected with trimmings In the back from which
depend sprays or lowers or streamers OF ribbon
Later IN the season crepe, tule and lace VIII oe
made up In the same style. As 1t Is not so Obliga
tory hereto that the nat shall match with the
costume many brighter colors are used for the pur
pose out the preference IS given to the delicate
cameo UNITS ana hight shades OF gray with brighter
color combined In the trimming.
For evening the toque Is made In pale blue or rose
color trimmed win white lace and flowers. aud
worn very far BACK the head, showing the entire