Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-11-20
EVENING STAR.
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
THE vKsr-PoLOSAIsE SUIT.

RIGS, the vest aud reyers should be of thick 1ros
gram OF me same shade; If the pOlonaise is part
velvet; and when the POlOnaise itself is of vel
vet, the smaller sdjuncts should be of heavy
SIX. Such Overdresses are not now quilted and
Wadded, a. IL makes them too thick and clumsy
They are lined throughout with thin silk and
II ught-htting thicker lining OF silk serge is
put IL th- waist An under waist of flannel or
of chamois skIn, or OF thin silk wadded, is then
worn for warmth.
LAUIEs' BUCKsKIN VESTS.
Sleeved jackets OF ba>ques OF buckskin are
exceeding warm and comfortable beneath
winter wraps, and are also ight and pleasant to
wear They made TO ut cOzily, have tiny
periOTsti"ES all over them. are stitched with
colored ks, and pinked on the edges. The
cost l. about S6.
A sui eTb wedding dress just completed is OF
white tai e The train has several skirts OF
sin and td.le draPcd effectively on the back II
display v de hOunCes ct point lace with which
II H. almost covered. Around the bottom of ths
skirt. WI re y comes IN contact with the floor
are some gathered six tlrunces above thess ths
lsce u Ii-cei, not straight around the skirt but
siter IL. I fancItui arrangement. It forms a
double al. on IN 'front.' while in the back it forms
cascad- from the belt. For healing to the
lace tOuLces are upright pleatings of silk gauze
and tulle7 on which are thick vines of orange
HoWerSr long gaTlsEds of buds ana blossoms
with occasionally tiny green orange and many
dTOOpIIg sprays. The cOrsage Is low and
pointed, with bertha OF lace and clusters of
The dress to be worn at the wedding by the
brldes mother Is q soft cameo tint, trimmed
WIN gOitlch-brONn velvet, with Nalencienues
laGe' ana clusters OF crimson roses with brown
foliage. This il far more distinguished looking
than the pearl gray or Lavender silk usually
worn by the mother when accompanying the
bride 10 church. The skirt has alternate kilt
PeatinRs of velvet and silk, three inches wide
extending above the knee; these trim the front
breadths, while the back has a wide founcs cut
in deep points on the edge to show a velvet friII
SCI underneath the points The overskirt and
basque are in the Louis Quinze style with
broad velvet revers ands Valenciennes fiounce
looped by roses. The basque has a velvet vest
drsped with lace; antique sleeves with an inner
Tutfe of Mslines and Ealenciennes; the same
trimming is in the pointed neck. A silk bow
with the pointed ends turned up and a velvet
loop, Is on the bosom aud back of the basque.
"A notable dress in this trOusseau is recep-
ton dress for the bride. This is of the new
shade called Ophelis-a pale creamy TINT very
lovely by gas light. IL is trimmed with fscings
OF pansy- cOlOred silk, and il richly embroidered
with purple psnsies. Another beautiful even
ing dress - of pale AzOf green. The low pointed
bertha OF white lisse puffs is finished by fall of
point dUchesse lace; amidst the puts is a band
Of embroidered rose buds. and coquettish little
bows OF watered ribbon. The train has two
narrow bias rntfies and deep iOunce festOOned
al intervals To form Vatican or funnel-shaped
folds on the upper part of the front width l. a
tabiier OF two halt-crcular rows OF lace, headed
by tulle embroidered with roses. The over-skirt
has an apron front, cut open TO the belt to dis
play the tabler beneath. Ii IL edged with lace
AnS smDr5Idery, hangs long and plain behind,
and has a Vatican dTaP-Ty on each side.
Among the cos umes H. one of very dark gar
net sllk. with sieeyeles- basque cor waistcOat)
OF velvet 81 the same color. A second suit Is OF
myrtle green, with the front of the lower skirt
and the back OF the upper skirt formed entirely
OF alternate strips OF velvet and silk. RuilleS,
velvet FACING. piping and fringe knotted on
the velvet ate the trimmings.
BONNET-.
The last impOrtariOns OF winter bOnrets are
perfectly round shapes, without tabs on the
sides, but with bTim turned up all around, and
yarlOuSly indented. The crown may be either
the hard, haif-high sailor shape, OF else it is a
soft, high puff of silk or velvet. There is A great
at he made bxy
the absence OF all chignOus. Strings to tie
under the chin are used OF dispensed with at
pleasure. Quantities of watered ribbon of far
hner quality than that used early IN the season,
are now seen on bOnnets made at the best Pa
Ilslan houses SOmeOi the most tasteful French
bonnets are made up IF velvet, grUs q Orleans
and Ostrich tips, without a shred OF lace vet
they are 50 deliberately fashioned that they are
readily sold for 81 or sD. Massive let pen
dants ornament the brim Of black velvet hats.
Bronze and olive feathers tipped with pale rose
OF blue trim velvet bOnnets of dusky olive hues.
Such bounets are also frightened by facings of
some ght shade OF fsille. and a corOnet bow of
both blue and rose ribbon is furnished with
each bonnet, 70 be worn with various costumes
COguettiSh evening bOnnets III ade of the new
gros dOrleans in very light cOlors, with duan-
titles OF tulle drapery OF the same Sd ade Autumn
leaves, faded roses, and ostrich tips complete
the trimming. Large ample bOnnets in comfort
able shapes for Old ladies made of black
velvet, hne jets, and rich lsces. They cost 81
or $50 For dresSy mourning there are soft
crowned bOnnets Of black gr0s d'OrIeans with
quaint little bows of Grape on the brim. There
l. caprice just now for most fanciful little
BOWS set about on bOnnets; they are made with
irregular loops ana pointed ends turned upward
or with one turned up and the other down.
HINTS ABOUT DRESSES
Sleeves closely lifted to the arm, like the old
time tght sleeves, are more stylish than easy
hitting coat sleeves When sleeves are slightly
open at the wrist they should show an inner lin
silk like the dress.
White ELK serge is used by the best modi.tes
for Lress Innings An inner belt of ordinary
belt ribbon IL placed inside all basques polo
naises, and even round waists. Ii is simply
tackled 10 the back and side seams is hooked on
front as soon az the dress is put on and serves
TO hold the back in place.
The hchu-cOllar is a very stylish trimming for
Cress waists This Is a bias band of velvet (or
any material with which the dress is trimmed
lined with stiff foundation, untrimmed and
slightly shaped to ut over the bust. Ii passes
around the back OF the cOrsage Just below the
collar, laps like a fchu in 'front.' and is fastened
just above the belt by hooks and loops 1t is
simple and stylish addition to the silk costume
and IL made OF English Grape, and worn with
mourning dresses.
Velvet belts are worn with dresses of all STYLES
even accompanying short basques In many
cases they are in the front Of the basque only
beginning at the seam under the arms and
fastened on the left side by small bow or else
III iron - a buckle OF Jet or OxiiiZed silver II
sash Is added, II IL merely two long loops and
two streamers Of different lengths with DIAGONAL
ends. These are attached under the beIt to-
ward the lett side of the back.
Dressy walstcoats for dinner toilettes are of
black velvet, with the front formed of alternate
" NH4tc SulpuTc insertion and veil
vet The velvet back has the seams outIinad
by band OF guipure. anda ruffe OF the same
lace edges the garment.
ne best protection for dress skirts that drag
oh Tie nOOr Il a box pleating three inches widr
made OF wigging doubled. Ii il pIeated into
BLhuli z and = bastei inside the facing OF the
ufes>, just AZ the edge, TO keep the dress from
touching the ground. This is sold ready-m,da
IGF - cents yard Fine muslin pIeat.nys are
paced Inside skirts OF evening dresses.
CRAVAT BOWS.
Most exquisite crayat bows and long iaho.s
with meek bands are formed of colOrei I,hina
craze and Lace, OF of the soft repped silk called
sIos orleans One of pale rOse-color has a
nSch-band formed of three tiny folds whiIs the
long square jabOt i knot of crane with ems
ITliied with rare Old Mechlin lace; 40 j. the
liice OF this dainty bit. Another is the Pom
l,adour with fold OF blue and of rose around
The neck, with two standing frilI- of noin,aJ
Nalencit uneSr while in front are scaliops Of
1lue lined with TO>e-cOlOr and edged with lace
Bfack bows are OF watcTed ribbon looms with
black lace. Another sty Sh tie Is OF black faiIIe
with the JabOt ends edged with white lace
White neck-ties OF twilled silk or OF China
Grape are handsOmest with costumes OF duskv
-9liNe, garnet, Plum-cOlOr, and invisible green
TOT The dowagers are narrow ties of black