The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1872-11-04
THE WORLD OF STYLE.
FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER.
Society Receptions, S;c-EvenIng Toll
Iettes-WLnter Cloaks-P ra cite
Fashions.
NEW YORK, October 81.
The fashionable season may now be SAID 10
have begun In real earnest, hotels are croWe.
ed, houses, even those unlucky furnished
ones, which are forever "to let," seem to
have been most of them taken, florists and
confectioners are hard at work, and all the
signs are indicative OF lively If nota brilliant
winter campaign.
Society Is becoming very costly luxury 10
New York City, and only those can partici-
pate in it to any extent, upon whom fortune
has rained down golden shower. PARTIES
are obsolete, but grand reception" involves
cost of about thousand dollars, exclusive
of dress aud with all the appurtenances Of
wealth at command. You may have a
staff of six or eight servants of your
own. but they have nothing to do upon
an occasion OF this kind, except put
the house In order. At about three P.
NJ, the fashionable restaurateur takes posses
sion of it-carpe,s the steps and sidewalks
over which he spreads an awning, aud sets
halt dozen to dozen colored walters (who
through the summer figured at Saratoga or
Long Branch) to work at the table and the
door bell. China, silver, and napkins, If
needed. are furnished with the quail, the
oysters, the boned turkey, the sandwiches,
the chicken salad, the epergnes OF fruit ana
flowers, the Charlotte Russo, the Jelly, the
maccaroops and the Ice cream. The wine
may not be supplied from the above source,
but In addition, there are always SIDE taoles
with tea. coffee, lemonade, cake and claret
punch. In this respect the reception does not
differ from the party proper, but 1t is widely
different In the manner In which 1t s con.
Quoted. There Is none OF the old.fashloned
Stiffness and formality of the party, people
come and 90, walk about and chat, OCCASION
ally listen to music, and sometimes 10 song
from some society prima donna, but the staple
of the entertainment is conversation varied
by glimpse of stray literary lion or artistic
star.
EVENING ToILETTEs.
The frat entertainments OF the season OBJ
tain additional splendor from the freshness
and beauty of the toilettes, and this ls PARTON
larly the case when, as now, the colors are in
themselves exquistely lively and made to
show by gaslIght. Pale pink, pale blue, light
peacock green, and the faintest shades OF
buff, are the colors most 10 vogue, prOfusely
trimmed with white point applique, Valen-
worn except In collars, barbs and coifFures,
BY elderly ladies'. The long oversklrt is quite
out of date for evening wear; the trained skirt
has an apron and paner, side s8shes, or
broad sash looped low on the side, but no
oversklrt; these are reserved for walking
dresses. The favorite sleeves are the antique,
with lace ruff1es. and the close coat sleeve,
with an open cuff, or lace rnff1es at the wrist.
Bodices are cut square, surplce, or low, With
basquee.
A new silk for evening wear, imported In
all the new evening shades, is called by the
rather blind title, satin de leon. It is very
much like what used 10 be called satin leon-
antine. It has fine, thick, satin upper SUE
face and elk under surface. 1t is softer, and
moi 30 glossy as ordinary satin, but has very
rich appearance. Nothing can exceed the
beauty OF this fabric in the new creamy buff,
pearl-lavender. light peacock blue sand green
tlnts. Add the appropriate trimmings OF
choice white lace, aud the toilette is perfect
White muslin pleatings are Sill used to some
extent, and also white muslin oVerskirts and
overdresses, but they are only employed npon
secondary toilets, and always suggest dress
made over or perhaps fresheIed up, to answer
purpose-a lauda6le Idea enough-but not
desirable to those who have plenty of money,
and want every costume to seem at least 10
have come straight from the hands of the
modlste. Sleeves and inside pleatings Of mus
lin are still highly approved, but folds and
fabrics are of an exquisite aneness, and there
fore almost as costly as lace, Without its' de-
STABILITY. There are class OF women, how
ever, and their number is daily increasing,
who never inquire the cost Of anything.
They purchase exactly what they want; If IL !s
five dollars per yard 1t i8 all rga;; II 1t Is ten
1t ls all right. First-class houses have but one
price, and the wealthy woman OF fashion does
not ever ask what that is; she selects what she
wants tor her purpose without regard to liza
cost.
A really handsome evening dress cannot be
got up now for less than from one hundred
and fifty dollars to three hundred dollars, and
may cost double these amounts. Below the
silken panIer overskirts OF white damask
gauze, with tringed border and netted head
log, are often gracefully draped, the fringe
twilled in, go as to apparently form part of the
fabric, and the fiowered gauze so arranged by
the art Of the modlsts as to form draperled
trimming for body and sleeves. Trails Of
flowers garland these dresses, and are msssed
In huge bouquets on the sldea, the flowers
alone costing US much as many farmers wife,
whose husband has bonds and money In the
bank, pays for her wardrobe during the entire
year.
We cannot 60 back to the slmplicties, the
arts, the Industries; the money-maklng faculty
of man forblds 1t. It Is at least az well to
spend money on silks aud laceB as on cham
pagne and fast horses.
SECONDARY TO1LETTEs.
But even rich women do not disdain having
recourse to what are called "secondary" TOLL
cites. They are very useful for small 'tcover-
ings" tor "at home," and Tor the opera. For
though the aggregate effort Of ladies' dress at
the opera is very gay, even magnificent, on
a ''arst night" yet regular habltues are very
careful not to display or conceal their fre0heat
and most elegant toll lettes In an opera box.
1t ls the pretty elk of last season yelled
with fche OF crepe or lace, ruff1ed skirt
under polonaise Of striped gauze or grena.
dine, or the simple striped or somewhat faded
silk, under an overdress of white embroidered
muslin, an elaborate ooiffure, delicate kid
gloves, laces, perfumes, flowers. rich wrap
hall draped, and the partial conceslment of
the seat or box. makes "secondaryn or
house dinner toilette pass muster very credit
ably; In lacti 1t Is m9re in place than sfullS
dress with low neck and short sleeves could
possibly be under shch circumstances.
Sleeveless jackets OF black, blue or chooo.
late colored VelYet are alao very much seen
over fue striped and plain silks, for opera and
house dinner wear, the basque cut small and
made perfectly plain, only edged with dou-
Bile piping, the inner piping the color OF the
dress.
In our climate there is necessity for
cloak In addition to the suit in cold weather,
and this season we have two or three different