New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1872-06-01
THE FASHIONS.

danes Of the past fit before the vision, Mesoa"eS
Abrantes. Recamier down to our own Grandmothers IN
Lady Teazle sleeves scanty skirts, no waists SOTO
speak and turbaus that would forever make gao IDe
heart of the most exactng Mussulmsn Alas' 10 'nls
contamination we unhappy arriving we "ie IN al
age OF transition, and this Summer TO DC rusue Is
to be fashionable and more fascinating thah ever Inc
very much bunched-up percales ana eretohhes' WIN
their coquettsh looping Of black velvet over resn
platings and saucy pastoral hats OF gonered sa"
bordered with yioets ao the clusters
of wild flowers on the top Of high crowned, broad
brmmed hats are ordered by Fashion for garden parties
the seaside, and waterngpaces. Dolly Vardens and
Vatican shepherdesses be assured that one may look
forward 10 farthingales and patches
Amid all Of the charming caprices Of fashion none
causes greater extravaganza than the beautiful flowers
Tho careless purchaser Of bunch Of graceful cut flowers
conscious that the that sway so naturally
from their pretty surroundings are no longer mace OF
wire covered with hideous green paper but OF hollow
Gcately tinted tube of rubber flexible and yielding as
the natural stem. And II in some Of the large french
establishments devoted especially to flowers one uncoh-
siously toops over great Of crimson hearted roses
the senses are greeted with the real Altar Gull ana ot
srs are perumed like the sweet south" Every variety
Of flower is closely initiated from great scarlet tropical
buds down simple white daisy. One can lnger LOT
hours in these large establishments,
Rooted with daisies and delicate bells
As fair the fabulous asphodels,
And nOw rets that dropping as day droopedI tOV'
Fell into pavilOns purple and blue"
Bonnets-the oornice to pillar Of fashongrow but
slightly yet can readily observed without the d VI
a microscope Their name is legion and eaen olners
from the other To designate them, artistic dramatc'
and historical names are appropriated Win charming
nonchaanee Very elegant are the little coronet gpsys,
conposed of black lace Of black Brussels net heaped
high in bright airy pufings over thin SIX cover
ing for the frame; or simply the phek lace
pufHncs over which may be lightly laid and
shaped without cutting, black thread vail which
aahl
handsome jet ornament and lovely rose de ne with
its long, floating branch Of tinted leaves Avery elegant
Charlotte COrday bonnet OF black lace is trimmed with
bacchante chaple Of vine tendrls, from which droop
clusters Of purple grapes whereon the dusky bloom yet
fingers Lace strings fashionable as the season adj
vanoes An exquisite bonnet Of violet crepe, the crown
quito large surrounded with pulled tulle, is trimmed
with small delicatey tinted feathers and superb pas
sion flower For travelling and simple undress purposes
the Homberg" appropriate. 1t is OF black also
of bronze straw trimmed with velvet and gros grain rib
bon Lovely large daisies nestle amid grasses and ferns,
dropping with crystal dewdr0ps.
little snowy drift OF point lace and clouds OF tue,
through whose misty folds peep the starry white jas
ine while the dark glossy vines float at the back with
barbes Of costly lace is bonnet fit 10 conceal the shy
bushes Of bride and these bonnets fulfill the meaning
OF the term; but they made to exhibit not conceal
Very breezy and rustic is the Dolly Warden hat broad
brmoed gpsey faced with rosetined silk, caught CO.
Quetshy up at the back with loops and of rib
hon. and with branch Of cut roses, full blown perfect
and perfumed, the sde For hats or bonnets, black
straw is preferred white. Black silk is very much
used in making up bonnets unique as well as fashion
able; they present the most dsngE appearance COM
bined with black cashmere and black silk costumes
popular this Spring The admixture Of silk and lace
e edmiTabX ornamented with the immense As9 With
hyacinths Pompadour roses, clusters Of Autumn
tinted leaves Very coarsely plated Palmetto hats, re-
sembng old ladies' inverted work baskets are among
the ugly novelties offered also pearnted finer sraws,
embroidered in braid upon the crowns and brms
En- passont 1t well TO that round hats are here
after closely confined to youthful heads, and age Will be
more than reconced that doubtful chins and Threats
are softened and toned down by friendly bonnet strings
OF course there exceptions for the country seaside,
and mountain excursions So quaint and varied are the
modes of trimming toilets, that no pen description can
do them justice. Nothing more graceful and cool has
been designed for the heated term than the beautiful
bfe costumes consisting of p0lonase and cape, TO DO
worn over the black silk skirt entire suit OF the
same material. The pOlonaise and cape are very
deliberately embroidered in tambour or chainstch OF
two coors black and white OF white and shade darker
than the dress perhaps little sprg OF polka dot en-
brodered in satin stitch. Where the chainstch can
30, he ohserved the pattern can be followed by very
rarroVv braid These garments edged with I'M
hleacbed lace or fringe. The batste Is much thinner
and cooler than the ordinary linen, and hangs mueh
more gracefully. Some Of these suits are simply en-
f.rofd N
I'm which is flower collection Of dots, or else they
oan he embroidered in linen floss Made up, these suits
are sold at from so So according 10 the amount OF
work The price per yard from rs cents to 81
For more expensive toilets, two colors combined form
very elegant fo ensemble For example, two shades OF
Tea rose. with over the whole golden gimmer mingng
in the ruchings, the rerers, and other trimmings
The famous cameo tnts are extremely popular and
generally becoming all styles. The poonaise Of the
lighter shade has heavy, darker, full ruehng at the
edges loOped very high with large Alsatian bows the
Sleeves of shade WIDE trimmed with lighter
bows on the elbows; the skirt has ounee half yard
deep of the color, surmounted by five fun ruchngs
OF the two shades mingled Light cafe lat suits are
trimmed with a dark chocolate in mutitudinous ways
Amagnihcen black silk has very deep hounoe faced en-
rer,rs with delicate violet; the ruchiDgs at the
heading are feathery mixture Of black and VIC
let the overskirt trimmed with plating of violet
silk over which falls a houneing of black Chantlly
headed by rose ruchiDg Of the two colors the sleeves
antique close at the elbow with deep double
rufaes OF black silk faced with violet and
edged with lace; the square position basque
Is cut with rerers faced with violet silk, trimmed
with ruches lace Evening poonases are cut quite
low either square heart shaped bodies are made to
simulate vests in trimming, always with basques Very
few waists are closed at the throat but in this in all
other matters OF Dress 1t is TO be hoped ladies will al
ways consult taste and individual beeomingness before
the dictates of fashion. The French blouse introduced
extensively last season. has lost none OF It's prestige
is made up lnen percae, lawn and every variety
OF material suitable for home and is also extreme
ly comfortable for travelling, where skirts OF thicker
quality are desirable In strange eontradstnction very
elegant costumes made up with perfectly plain skirts
absolutely refreshing TO the eye weary Of null.
tiplicty OF rufles but the poonaise takes re-
yenge and presents its "wrinkled front" orna-
mented with huge bows, endless ruchings. and