Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-10-01
THE WORLD OF STYLE.
FALL FASHIONS.
What to Wear-COIOrs and Shades.
A Railroad Princess.
ROnnefs 6yInUes-
FALL FASHIONS.
BOnnets, Hats. Gloves, &C.


of passage have errived, and the papers TEEN as
usual with brilliant representations of the APP
preaching seec1n. Dress. opera, concerts, recep-
tons, al urapproachable in beauty, gayety and
mssnitcence, are the themes of ord'naI society
conversation, and doubtleCs the singing birds
who have succeeded Nilsson, expect 10 reap a
golden harvest from this land of rich promises.
Perhaps some of them will. yucca will un-
doubtedly GARY away sub -tantial evidence OF
American liberalty, but it is extremely doubt
tul If all the anticipatiors of grandeur and CAV
ETY. are realized. There are several skeletons
whose bones will persist in showing ITEMS elves,
and one of them Is d'sagreeably obtrUsiye even
row, viz, shortness OF money.
The anniversary OF the Liberal Club brought
together quite distinguished circle of men OF
science and letters the other evening, and a
sprinkling of well-known women. There were
toasts and speeches, song and story, ami abund-
ance OF flowers TO grace the feast. The occasion
was made all the more interesting by the pres
ence OF Mrs. +. Thompson, who donated one
thousand dollars Pc the nucleus of library, and
wss the first woman admitted to membership.
| few weeks ago the club marked the de nth of
one of its members by grand floral display
and memorial. At the close of the exercises
the flowers were distributed among the ladies
present.
Miss Emily Faithful has the sanction of the
Queen for her visit to this country, and its pur-
| pose, Of visiting the factories and large indus
trial centers, and discovering the status of
female labor and its comparative remuneration
She will be the guest OF Mrs. Laura Curtis Bull
lard during her stay in this city, and the recp-
lent Of distinguished hospitality.
WHAT TO WEAR.
In the midst OF all this excitement people are
hurrylng home from the country, and rushing
tIanticslly about, inquirIng what they shall get
to wear.
The stores are full of new goods and lately
received garments, but nothing is easier than to
make a mistake in making a purchr sc, and the
money gone, nothing remains but ID abide by 1t.
The difference as yet between the sp:ng and
the fall is of material only, not of form. Ii +
the Poionase in black cashmere, instead of buff
JdstfSte embroidered with silk instead OF linen,
and trimmed with ''yak" Instead OF linen lace.
There Is slight variation, however. There is
| the choice between the POlonaIse and the Dol
mar, the latter being close cut sack with IN.
mensely long and wide sleeves, much longer and
out OF all proportion to the body. But who ever
heard OF fashion paying any attention to pro-
portion?
What is called the ''latest' STYLE, though il is
old enough, old as the hills, the children saw
| is announced as a "talma with SASH" Ii is in
RI atty manteet with simulated hood, aud
long rounded ends, crossed in front, and tied al
the back like Marie AntiOnette fc4a. 1t is
| made in black cashmere lined with black silk,
and trimmed with broad black lace.
Yak, or wOollen lace is one OF the novelties
1t is made 10 initiate Irish point, and is very eff
| fective for trimming fine wooden suits and cos
tonnes. 1t Is obtainable in black, and various
shades OF color, and costs from fifty cents to two
| dollars and half per yard. according TO width
and hneness, the range averaging from one to
six inches.
Cancels hair or Arabian cloths az it is indif-
feTently called is the most stylish material for
full street costumes. 1t is very wide, but m axes
an expensive toilette at six dollars per ward,
when the making and the cost of the lace is in
cluded. 1t must be said, however, that yak
lace, wide and matching it in color. trims it
exactly.
Black silk suits have been rather run into the
| ground, and their place is taken by those who
can afford them, with suits of dark rich plum
coOred silk. sage, green, chocolate, autumnal
leaf, or bronze brown. These handsome suits
are made up with abundance of kilt pleating,
velvet somewhat de-ker and fringe with
melted beading, precisely the same shade.
Lighter browns, greys, cafe du Ldits peacock.
and leaf tints, are made with demi-trains and
trimmed with rich fringe, or black thread lace,
Tor earn age DIRE, Ses. Black BiOire ard fringe or
black velyetaDd lace, are the fashionable trim
mings for black silk. Ladies cloth for fall
travelling suits Is trimmed with silk JgroS-grdin)
OF the same shade, o. shade darker, than the
material. The most wastsful and therefore the
fashionable design for carriage dresses is a
demi-trained skirt, ruffied to the top at the
back, apron front carried to the back and the
new talms with sash. for the shoulders
Some very elegant dinner dresses are made
without oyerskiItS, the back breadtbs being laid
over in single folds, which are carried up to the
line of the shoulder, and give the effect of a
H0ttedu plat. Sometimes the sleeves are
formed OF this side pleating but this method is
ungraceful and unbecOming; the coat sleeves
which have reappeared, and which are rendered
anuque by the addition of two puffs, one at the
top and one near the elbow, are much better
The cloth closks, such as have appeared. are
some ones in dark cloth have been received
richly embroidered, with silk slightly intermxed
with jet, and bo-dered deeply with a fringe of
black marten fur, once known as Alaska sable.
The Dolmar will also be q favorite STYLE but
VIII De more employed for opera cloaks and car
rage wraps than for street wear, its large loose
sleeves, and stylish but somewhat negiigee ap-
pearspce adapting il to these purposes.
Jackets in cloth and cashmere, embroidered
IN black or shades of color, re,appear in prOfu
slon. They can be purchased ready-made or
marked out 10 be made at home.
CoLORs AND SHADES.
me great art OF the costumer at the present
time Is TO blend shades in such a way as to form
apeIiect harmony Of color. Much confusion is
created by the announcement every few weeks
OF :. new" color, when there can really be no
such thing and the called nesv color is moth
ing more than the revival OF an old one, or a new
shade OF color already in existence.
" Parls IN ashes" for example, is simply the
darkest shade of grey, formerly kno an as .iron',
grey, and resembles invisible green SO closely
ihat they are often mistaken one for the other.
IN The inner depths, however, there is a shade
winch IN one is green ana the other red. This
in?rks the difference, but with q subtlety which
II Is dnhcult to detect, except by putting the
two tinfs together.
The silks OF the season exhibit nearly every
variation, OF every shade, of every color, and
gl0ves are made to match. In plain-colored
silks OF rich quality we have counted thirty-siN
shades of wood color alone, and matched each
one perfectly with gloves.
Green commences at the palest s'water'' tint
(sdu de nj and goes down through twenty-five
distinctly different shades to the dark 'iny .sbe"
In grey there are at present to be had about
hfteen different shades, beginning at light ash
grey, and ending in iron grey, or " Paris in
Drab commences at light stone color. and
goes through to dark fawn, taking in about
eighteen shades.
Brown begins at light "tan" and goes down
to chocolate, ending in the still darker but not
so rich and deep q tint, the walnut.
Rose-color starts at the palest flesh tint, and
ana goes through five shades of flesh to "blush,"
blossom" and ''rese," and thenSthrough a new
series to maroon, embodying not less than
head. N Hs'
Inc lightest shade in evening colors is milky
white, expressed exactly by the term watered
milk, as in 1t there is precisely that indescriba
PIE shadow OF water green, which city people
Next to this is pearl color. which goes through
ABOUT nfteen shades to full lavender. When
lavender ends the pale English violet begins
ana goes through to lilac; from lilac through
another series to the dark purple, violet and
plum colors.
yellow shows about fifteen different shades,
beginning in the faintest straw color and ending
in the ripened corn color.
The Uumher of sho das v,e,t;noa,1 oas 40 ;,