Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-08-05


this deep gorge. / do not doubt il. There are
quite enough at any rate 10 confuse and con-
found the ordinary observer, however interest
ing and instructive the combination NAV be 20
those well posted in the exact sciences The
terrible hubbub has it, origin, I have nO Doubt,
in The action Of streams OF water on chemical
deposits below the esrth's surface, rather than
IN internal fires, as some suppose. have OBJ
served, however, that the scientific explanations
on the subject generally need about a. much eS-
planning as the phenomena themselves, - 7
shall not bore the reader with any speculatlous
Of my own OF anybody else ia gard 70 the
matter. Ii should, however, be stated, la Justice
To the other side, that strong evidences OF vol
canic action are 10 he seen not only in the i'm
mediate vicinity Of the GCySers, but in all the
region round about. The reader as well a. tie
visitor can therefore take his choice o. theories.
The SURROUNDINGS.
1t is customary for the tourist who arrives a
little after noon 10 .'do'' the diabOlical rayine
the same evening aud hurry away shortly after
daylight next morning. This may easily be
done, so far as merely seeing the Geysers them
selves is concerned. But those who stop at that
commit great mistake. The remoter surround
ings of the place are very attractive, and afford
ample material for deliberate enjoyment. The
hotel, although far from frst-c class, has tOlerabe
accommodations, as that term goes in California,
and, as the locality is nearly two thousand feet
above the level of the sea, the air is pure, cool
and invigOrating. Good trout fishing and good
hunting, in season, may also be had near by, 80
be put in very agreeably, and this whether the
yisitor be gentleman OF of the better sex
Especially should the fine scenery and splendid
distant views afforded by short excursions be
enjoyed by every lover OF the grand and beauti-
full in nature. One of these could not forget ii
l would, and would rot if could.
SPLENDID PANORAMA.
Securing the services of trusty guide AMI
sure-fOOted horses, We crossed the narrow foot
bridge which spans Sulphur creek in front Of
40 81 81 m a
steep and almost imperceptble trail up the high
ridge which shuts in the view on the north. AT
places the growth of cL8parTal is so high and
denre as TO well nigh forbid passage, but the
difficulties OF the rough and nearly perpenGicu-
lar ascent are soon forgotten in the beautiful
scene brought into sight when the crest OF the
first hill is reached. Looking backward a COM
plete and fascinating biTd's-eye view OF the
Geyser gorge and Plu ton canon is 20 be had.
Below and little to the right are the bright
colored walls and constantly rising mists OF that
strangest among the arcana of nat re, the gcy-
sers. Immediately in front lies the deep green
ish-blue gorge of the main canon; on the other
side the white cosy looking hotel, surrounded
with its wide comfortable verandss, nesues
among bright grass plats and massive shade
trees. Behind it, and beyond the first range Of
hills on the south, the great Geyser or Sulphur
Peak looms up nearly four thousand feet above
the level of the sea, while away TO the right, or
westwardly, the line of Sulphur creek may be
seen foaming and tumbling on its devious way
toward the broad and fertile Russian River
Valley. Pushing still to the north, an in
teImediate valley or rather a slightly de-
pressed plain is crossed, and the crest OF
second range, not visible from the
hotel, is reached. Here all trace OF the former
view except Sulphur Peak is lost, but the eye is
repaid by a broader and more extended range of
country. This is attractive for its vague sug-
gestiveness rather than for clear details or
specific points upon which the eye rests TO the
exclusion OF others. 1t is a little too high for
near view of the deep valleys which furTow the
surface of the country in every direction, and
not quite high enough for the wide unbroken
sweep which is afforded 10 the vision from the
more elevated point TO which our steps are
directed. About a mile farther along the rDonu-
ment which marks the corner of Lake, Sonoma
and Mendocino counties, is reached, on the
summit OF the third range OF hills, snd here one
of the most extended and beautiful views have
ever beheld bursts on the sight. Indeed can
not now recall its equal in all that lends at
tractiveness to such a picture. Directly in the
east a range somewhat higher than our poiEt OF
observation shuts in the prospect, but in every
other quarter the view is entirely unobstructed.
Turning toward the SOUTH in the middle dis
lance, the bald peak of Mt st. Helena towers
up in one OF its most picturesque aspects.
little farther 10 the right Sonoma Peak rises
above her surrounding fellows, and still farther
down the faint outlines OF Tamalpais
may be traced guarding the misty shores OF the
Bay of San Francisco. Due south you look
Gown upon and over the famous "Hog's Back
ridge, and, although Geyser Peak cuts of the
near landscape, beyond and a little farther
westwardy, the blue waters of the Pacific may
at times be seen glstening through her gray
mantle OF fog. In the west the alternating
ridges and valleys are clearly marked by vary
ing shades Of blue until the ocean shore is
reached, each line growing fainter and dinner
until the extreme coast range, higher here than
ar almost point in the state. at last shuts out the
view. Apparently at your feet in the north, bIt
in reality nearly twenty miles away, lie Clear
Lake valley and the bright still waters Of Clear
and Bora1 lakes, their farther sides walled In
by Mount Ripley and Mount Uncie Sam. Sun
further to the north Mount St. John looms up
grandly above his high surroundings, while
away in the far northeast, nearly a hundred
and fifty miles distant, as the bee flies, magnit-
cent Shasta
"Her of the Sunset, Herald of Morn"
Uses clear and white out of the violet haze, like
q colossal pyramid OF spoilers marble set a
vast plain, little less than fifteen thousand feet
above the level of the sea. Mount Shasta is
one Of the highest and most symmetrical cones
known TO travellers. and, standing az she does
almost isolated, with her summit capped in
eternal snow. a view of her sharp, cleaT-cut
peak from any direction presents one Of the
granGest and most imposing mountain effects
anywhere TO be seen. From our point Of Obser-
walton II was, to the last degree, sublime and
enchanting.
Tie whole picture, indeed. is one which is
rarely excelled and cannot be easily Matched
eomprehendiDg il does such Infinite extent
and variety OK mountain ranges. lnierya,es,
lakes. rivers, forests. ard golden plains. That
seen from the CatskilIs is tame alongside of il,
and that afforded from Mt Washington, even
when that rarest of things perfectly clear
aliOSIDtIe II NOuSLSdlCG, lsC- no. eilual
either for breadth, diversity, or absolute beauty
OF detail.
ANNoYANcRs OF TRAVEL.
SIN sorry to have to close this letter with a
growl, but so it must be. The ride from San
Francisco to the Geysers by either OF the two
routes is as pleasant as any ore can ask, SO far,
at least, as a beautiful Landscape and clear,
invigorating atmosphere are concerned. In fact,
more delightful experience in its way it is hard
to imagine. But in taking the trip the traveller
should by all means 60 by the Sonoma or old
road route, as have heretofore intimated. This
for two reasons. First, he is thereby taken over
the celebrated Hogs Back, !" where he gets a
hurried glance at q picture much like that to be
seen from Monument Point. Second, by this
plan he has less Of that offensive humbug.
FOss,-" the champion six-horse driver Of the
Pacific coast. )" as the handbills and Photograph
style him. The new road IL rather the sD~~oss,
and has the easiest grs4es but The one hs. the
nnest scenery. .ne tcr.rrrt should therefore 20
one on. Fad tsCurn the other; and to be Of
tnis E Must do as have said. Should he 20 up
over the new road by Foss' stage line, he Is not
allowed to pay bis fare at Calisoga before start
ing. After nearly half the trip Is made, how
ever, and when the passengers are miles from
any b2bitatiOu. the old hilhWaymap % o.. .