The Richmond palladium. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1855-1875, 1872-12-21

DARWIN ON FASHIONS.


Though Mr.. Darwin's doctrine of
Evolution remains an undemonstrat-
ed theory, it is susceptible of in
teresting application to various
phases Of human life and society.
Its originator has himself given
further proof Of his ingenuity in
adapting, it to the development in
dress, which he does in recent
number. of Macmillan's Magazine.
The general idea of deyelopmentin
dress is the same as that Of ssselec-
tion' as applied to the successive
species ofhuman life, one form yield
ing to a succeeding form better adapt
ed to new surroundings and condi-
tions, but reproducing characteris-
tic remnants of a former condition.
There are many analogies between
certain forms of dress to-day and
those of a former age which are
curious enough in their relations to
the doctrine of Evolution. A few in
stances may be cited The narrow
black bands which clergymen wear
about their necks seem to be use
less, but their present retention can
be explained by tracing the interme-
date stages through which they
have passed in coming down from
the serviceable wide collars worn in
the days of Milton, and still retained
in their original shape by some of
the Cambridge choristers. So it is
with the hat the only present
use of which is to conceal the seam
joining the crown to the brim. But
these hat-bands are the legitimate
successors of cords, used in early
times just where the present bands
are used, for thepurpose of fitting
the hood to the head This change
of function is similar to the develop
ment, traced by Mr. Darwin, of the
swimming bladders of fishes, which
give them ightness in the water, in
to the lungs of mammals and birds
for supporting animal heat. The
stove-pipe hat itself is the result Of
a series ofevolutions from the cock
hats of the seventeenth century,
and the silk of which it is made
was suggested at first for the pur-
pose of initiating the fur originally
used The gentleman coat of the
present day affords several curious
instances Of this development. Take
the two buttons which are univer-
sally found on the back just above
the slit in the coat-tails. They are
of no possible use, but are the rem
nants of a necessity several hundred
years old, when the vest was used
as a coat is now, and was fastened
behind by a short strap attached to
two buttons. Flapping coat-tails,
now made available for pockets,
were originally employed on &C
count Of the general custom and
even necessity of horse back riding.
So in uniforms. It was customary
at one time to turn up the corners
! of the coattlils hence, in many ol
the uniforms made now, the but
tons, along with change of color
! in the material in these flaps behind
are retained, while the practice O
actually turning back the coat-taili
| has been discontinued Nearly al
the coats to-day, arc made with a the
semblance of cuffs; even buttons
are sewed on to complete the coun
terfeit. This is simply conforming
to the rule eff reproducing the char
acteristics Of former species, as
when coats were made Of silks anl
! velvets, and were very expensive
it was customary to turn back th.
cuffs. in order not to soil them
The custom of making the collars o
uniforms Of color differing from
the coat itself is simply a tradition
of the time of great coats when thu
collars were turned back and show
ed the lining. In boots, tits a gen
eral practice to make the tops
) bright color, though covered by th'
pantaloons, they are never seen. I
comes down from the old top boots
worn with knee breeches, whicl
were frequently turned back SO a
to display the inside lining. NJ
merous other developments of
similar nature might be traced.