Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1872-08-24
ATRAvELuNa TENNEssnEAN.
Candle Letters ana lectures.

Candle Letters and Lectures.
The city of Alexandra is some eight
m les from Washington. It was here that
the Yankee army first set its foot on Vir-
giDia soil, aud here that their leader was
slain in trying to tear down Confederate
flag. Gone thing which greatly endears
this city to the returned Virginisn is the
ancient and fsh-like smell which doth adj
here to many of its localities reminds bin
of the behring's 90 which he was raised.)
Fresh herrings, stewed herrings, fried her
rings, boiled herriogs, smoked behring's,
broiled behring's, wet herrings, dried her
rings, soaked behring's, and, oh, delicious
roe herrings, how wildly this smell brings
up each long forgotten phase, each one of
which like the different faces of the dis-
mond, presents sparkle and reveals a
fresh delight in this noble fish. How CfLen
does the exile from home turn from the
odious fried meat and long for the her ing
which to him is in season every day from
youth to hoary age.
The short trip from Alexandria to Wash
ington is made by rail. l passed this road
not great many weeks before the first NJ.
nassas. L had been paying a hurried
visit over the river under circumstances
which did not make me very particular IN
telling every one met that | was just from
Richmond. Indeed 1 exhibited 80 unsec-
tional spirit that brave defender Of the
old flag insisted on mY drnkjn5 his h9 alth,
which, ''sinking the shop" did in beer so
fat, stale and Improbable that the Grand
Arch Templar of all the temperates could
have imbibed without violating the pledge.
| knew that the Yankee Government
was already at heavy expense, and was so
anxious for it not TO have its burdens in-
creased by having to fnd me in board and
lodging, that when at the Long Bridge the
soldiers showed q desire to stop the
stage the next day, their desire got the
better of them, and they did stop it for
good-mY tremulous, pallid appearance, to
one not acquainted with me, might have
been mistaken for extreme fear. And in
that hour the mud and pines OF old Vir-
ginia seemed fairer than the view from Ar
lingson heights. But times ara cha G. L
sweep into that magnificent scenery, giorl-
fed Oy the late beams of the sun that Is
sinking towards the Virginia hills. Airing
ton still stands in pri:4eval forest and col
umnar beauty. Across the broad river L
am nearing, from the navy yard at the
mouth of Eastern branch to the heights Of
Georgetown above, miles and miles is a
continuous city, presenting a scene as fair
as the eye of tourist ever rested on. To
the LETT are the Departments and the Presi-
dents house, hardly visible through the
trees. Between them and the bridge IS the
Smithsonian Insti ute, with its Norman
battlements and towers. Hi {h in front are
the Patent and Postoffice buildings. But |
turn agaiu to the left to look at that uutin-
ishsd column which is ascending toward
the skies. 1t seems not much till notice
how it dwarfs the great building around it,
and then | reason rather than feel how
enormous it must be. l am dizzy trying
to construct it in my mind as it will be
when finished, the monument to Washing
ton, perhaps the grandest memorial ever
built to mortal man. Now | look to the
right where the eye can rest and rest for
hours on that embodiment Of beauty and
glory, which is called the capitol. There
was always an indescribable effect of light
ness about the building, as it was power
without might, which mad got o. that hill
as of itself, and could Of itself fly away.
Now the elevation Of the central dome gives
it the appearance of having already begun
to ascend.
1t is a great pity that Americans think it
"the thing to sheer at their own works OF
art. Neither st. Paul's at London, nor yet
St. Peters a. ROme, in external effect equals
the Capitol at Washington, however Inie-
rior the latter is in internal design and fin
ish. If one could ouly divest oneself OF
notions, the calm repose of the building
and magnificent effect of color, when
studied By moonlight, is at least as touch
ing aud beautiful as the Coliseum. l
know all this is rank heresy. But could
Alladin's genius move the Coliseum in
night to America, the bricks would be sold
at a dollar a thousand. We try to get up
raptures for eauties in Italy which at our
own door we would sneer at.
But the cars eject ms in the heart OF
Washington. And
Lower, less, and grosSer things,
Eclipse the wOrld-like mind.
pet into the street cars. They are
crowded, aud it is minute or two before l
am used to the situation. Let me- see.
Next to the door, on the seat opposite me,
are two fat greasy looking sisters and ne
groes. Then there is a white man and
woman and child. Then a colOred man
and brother. Then, yes. actually next to
him, pressed close by the crowd, is deli
cate looking white girl. Beyond her some
negro men. A like state of things on my
side. The cars stop. Three negroes,
whose days work is done, and very dirty
work it was, get in aud C ovid the white Ia
dies still more. If there are Two vacant sea s,
they prefer one between two whites to sit
| ting next their own color. Years ago l
| remember being amused at an account OF
some mules put in a Texas field where
| there was a camel and herd OF mules
which had become accustomed to IT,
| Hours after the new mules were
seen huddled in the corner most distant
| from the terrible beast, glaring az it WITH
| lifted nostrils Ever and anon they would
| look at the other mules who were uncon-
cerned, snort to the uttermost, and in
second would return to the study OF the
| camel. dare say present some sPecta'
Fcles as ridiculous when look at the whites
and the blacks, and think, ''that woman
will not stand that" 'that man will ge
up.n But no one seemed to mind it. Al
last young black took seat well-nigh OF
nv next neigbbor. l could not help whis'
pering to the latter this seemed to be muct
| like race, equality. l touched a trigger
which led off an explosion. Yes, he re-
| piled audibly and wrathfully, have been
voting for the Republican party these twelve
years, but never voted for This. But never
mind. There will be an election next Fall
and the last one of them will be put II
picking cotton down South, Then turning
70 his neighbor with eye of fame and voice
of wrath he said, "you get away from
here" As did not want to explode
| anothar mine. I did not learn if it was Mr.
g., or Gen. g., who was going into cottoT
| wholesale.
1t is a commentary on all this that al
this hour 1 am writing, the small pox Il
raging among the negroes who are oJlnt
at the rate of hundred a day. | learn
that these very street cars are beyond
everything besides, the means OF dissent
mating the plague. There seems TO be
fixed purpose 10 put u EN- in Circumstance!
where they must perish. Just as iheil
leaders force them contrary TO their owl
better instincts to mix with the
whites as equals, so they are poison
ed by the virus Of our civil
ization. In the Virginia Legislature
some If the leading white members, wish
ing to cOnciliate the negro element, propoE
ed that every train should be required T.
have car better h,teI than the rest if an
thing for the blacks. The suggestion wa
booted and by the nego members VIII
said they wanted to ride with the white
and would do it. Such men as these how
| ovor ranrasant the viciOua NOT the bette