New-York tribune., 1872-07-17
SUMMER LETTERS.
I ruE MASSACHUSETTS, SHORE.

lFRoN AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENT OF THR TRlBUNEl
CLIFFORD HOUSE, PLYMOUTH, July 14-Io
one who was by the shore. and is wonted 10 the
oceans grander moods its most compelling charm seems
absent he wanders Summer time along the massa
chusetts coast. George Borrows blind old gypsy snh
wished to live, long they would place him whele
he could feel the wind the heath; and an aged
wrecker methinks might feel anew the pulses OF MS
youth dwelling within sound Of the leagueong roller
tho numberess daughters Of the sea- But except aier
easterly gale the thunder Of the surf is memoraoe
only for its absence from Marbehead TO the arm'p OF
Cape Cod Bay There are crags and reefs enow where
you can hear the wild tapping, and yellow sand
reaches opening 10 the main-where the NTmonters'
who come down aud tdwen in tents, are Joyous over
combers that may reach foot in hight on the hoodtde
with sd breeze blowing This is not surf however, 10
one familiar with the OF Maine Of Block and Long
Islands or even the Jersey shore aud, calling to niuu
the grandeur OF breakers higher than the bgh' OF
man used in not very rough weather TO snake uho
sands OF Watch Hin Pont-maling the ocean so mueh
more impressive than Niagara to the vision OF child
should think that imaginative Yankee boy brought
IN Summer for the first time to the Bay Shore would ex-
claim with Landors CharOba: B.:
"u this the mighty ocean Is this allw
You can the map how rugged and brokeni is the
Old Colony sea-front-which I always have longed to
visit for whehow boldly much Of it is faced toward
the broad Atlantic. All have heard OF its bluff and
beeng headlands, and naturally would think that here
the waves must clash "high a stern and rockbound
Cane Ann and thence southwark aonghcre IN search OF
genuine unfashionabe, outdoor, salty region where
one might bathe SAIL fsh, and rough ii to ms hearts
content. during this Of meteorological and polti
cal incandescenoe. Let me acknowledge that have
the sounding surf. listening for it in vain from
the scene Of skipper Iresons tarry expaon to the emf
where Myles standsh farm overooks the ancient
Pilgrims haven.
At Cape Ann itself-that noble promontory which
heads the "North Shore" stretching far out into the
q Nrl,nv thCrNv "
come what against the beach, there always is more or
less cOmmotion On this side however the waves grow
still and stiller until you have crossed the entrance OF
Boston harbor, and reached the South Shore" Even
here at Cohasset sctuae, and Marshfed, with clear
OF between these points and the French
coast often calm and CLASSY that but Tor
the daily ebbngs and Owings the occasional roll OF
porpOise and the brlny Of the kepsrown beach,
you might imagine yourself upon the border OF udeess
inland sea.
But one that this tranquility is not without
compensation for the Summer vistant The harborage
poOr safe anchorage for saboats just ofshore
with good Bleaching for dOry," become OF moment
We make for deep water with a freedom that Is not
accorded where great billows roll in and swamp your
boats az the outset Here you thoroughly enjoy the sea-
subdued and nodded to your will. Ihave been puzzled
understand why the should be so much higher
Watch H within the entrance OF Long Island Sound,
than upon this more exposed Eastern coast The most
probable explanation is that of hearty landlord.
Capt Hoxe who says that here the Winds throughout
the Summer. blow strongly and steadily from the south
west-directly off shoregetng the sea down. and keep
ing it down. Below Cape Cod the shores trend in
different direction and the winds shift more fire.
quonty TO eastward. Some other facts are
noticeable From Plymouth the distance across
70 Buzzards' Bay is only IS miles, but the water
of the latter region, and at all points thence toward
NewYork, is warmer by 1Oo than we have 1t, and so
much the better for bathing. With this higher tenn
perature nevertheless, come attendant caamtes: the
dense fogs. which prevail from New-BedfOrd TO New
Haven and aggravatng to the throat and lungs;
and that dampnes pervading the air the tablesat the
linen, your clothes, until everything is cammy sticky.
or rusty at most places within league Of the Rhode
Island and Jersey shores AT Plymouth sea-dampness
is almost unknown. Sometimes fog is driven over
de but the local atmosphere, far as
observe, is dry and clear among the mountains,
and people with weak lungs seem to profit by the tonic
effect OF seashore residence upon the systom. without
irritation Of the membranes Of the throat and
chest.
When there is north-easterly gale land throughout
the eight of cold which according to De Tocque
willie. form twothirds Of the New-Engand year, then
the hOary Atlantic revenges himself for this enforced
apathy charging with greater fury than elsewhere,
strewing the rocks with wrecks pounding the cliffs, and
lifting his spray until it is carried mile inland by the
driving wind. The trees stunted the shrubs cling
for life. IL is treacherOus lion of sea, smiling and
fawnng upon its Summer visitors, but now and then
rOusing ITSELF gnashng its teeth and sending forth the
Old portentOus
No section Of country is more densey populated
than Massachusetts There is not enough coast
for the number of people, and most of it is over
crowded TO disappOint him who would find society
where ntrudes The Eastern" and Old Colony"
ratOads carry hosts OF BosOnans, far ROckpOrt
ON the north and sctuae the south, who go in and
sily Just your businessmen travel to and from
Long Branch Prices at the leading hotels far from
aoeras, the being shorter than with you
The bseagfront is dotted with villas, cottages, and
santes, wherein innumerabe families abide from June
70 October. This is especially true at such places
chester and Beverly, where hotels and boarding
-rotses are small and few From Salem one reaches
IisrbleLead by a branch railway, distance four
miles, or abthe harbora for a saibOst, and shores for
sat air and fishing, give those OF bluff old Marble
headl But on the "Neck" could not ind comfortable
9 Iodging.plaee for mne In July and August the
couny people down by thousands and, as at Rye
q and campon, form immense encampment "tentlng
beach" This is the orthodox Yankee method OF
eivSsg be fruits Of the ocean, but involves gregarous
ness and a regular campaign equipment. From Marble
hoad a superb shore-drive brings you 10 Swampscott
the dovnct Newport with It's three exquisite beaches
. CURED inward like festOons and divided by knots
of grove covered projecting rock Here is delicious
tnkhng snrf for the ladies' here three or
4. four, Ioied hotels and boardnghouses all between
s sare9 are picturesque villas and cot
tases here onr friend Adch the poet is wont to pass
bis Summers and guides his twosailed "lap-streak"
across the lovely bay. A. delightful place TO live
~! II SouAJ own or hire cottage, and still
Iaote so forf your Wlfe, If you can present her
phset0n ON the day Of your arrival; but
Apa ehty haut Of faslhou wearing the mantle fallen
foin NahaDt, which proDl0ntory, by the way, seems
l1sexsasaysa to- sess as screen Biuttng OF from the
yiyion o. the Bos refugees gmpses Of Bunker Hill
MaRtIle NJ and oter eIImiey structures towering
opes, vhieh might else remind them too
! eoIsts1tly of tber dsiiy prk9hlfe iHtown.