The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1872-10-15
THE FASHIONS.
Evening Toilets and New Fabric,

and voluminous fullness behind, are as
admirably reproduced as II copied from
portraits Of Josephine and Hortense.
Faille and velvet Of soft faded tiuts-tur.
quoise blue, serpent green, and Nile with
damssk gauzes and China Grape, are the
rich fabrics Of these dresses; quantities of
embroidery, tilmy lace, and flowers in
profusion, are their garniture. A charm.
ing dress for bridesmaid or for the ball
room is Of white Chambero gauze,
trimmed with eglantine-the trailing
wild rose. The skirt has fat plaitings in
front, with gathered aounces on the train;
the over.skirt Of China Grape with netted
fringe Is gracefully draped. Garlands oil
eglantine, with Its green leaves, almost
cover the front from belt to toe. The low,
round Josephine cordage has bertha,
the mercst atom Of sleeves, an eglantine
cluster on the left shoulder, and a very
wide belt and sash made of rose and
green silk, OF the two shades seen in the
garland.
A companion piece to this is a similar
dress, with tablier Of water lilies, and a
fringe OF dark, glossy, trailing grasses. A
most distinguished dress is OF black dam
ask gauze with the Josephine cOrsage, or.
namented with pale pink and dark.red
garden roses, and sash of dull dark red
taille lined with pale pink. The black
Chantilly lace on the bertha Is sprinkled
with fine Jet.
Embroidery is the richest trimming oil
the season for full dress toilets. Ii is
dAintily wrought in colored silks on white
tullc, and is then applied to the silk OF the
dress. Vines OF flowers in their natural
color are used as heading for lace and
ruflles Entire front breadths of dresses
are imported done, in fine needle work on
tulle, diaphanous gauze, or muslin; these
will be laid plainly over silk, while tho
back breadths will be abundantly ruftled.
A superb dress Of faintest Nile green faille
has the overskirt trimmed with white
lace, head ed by q band Of embroidered
Margucritcs. This overskirt falls open in
front, and its most retrouSSe drapery is
caught back by velvet sash. The front
breadth Of the skirt beneath Is almost GOV.
cred by spiral abot Of silk and lace.
PoLoNAIsEs AND wooLLEN SUITS.
Polonaises prevail among the fine wool.
en- suits that will be preferred to silk for
winter promenades, shopping, church and
travelling toilets. These polonaises are
Of cashmere or OF roughly twilled cam.
els hair, worn above skirts OF silk of the
same shade, trimmed with woollen
founces, showing Innings and facings of
silk; or else the trimming is deep wide
kilt plaits alternately Of silk and camel's
hair. Most new polonaises fall open In
front from the belt down in q gradually
rcceding line mot rounded), and are held
back by tapes tied over the tournure.
Loose belted polOnaises, the closely fitted
princesse shape, and the double. breasted
redingotes arc all opened in this way to
display the tablier of the skirt beneath.
The old iavorite Marguerite polonaiSe,
which disappeared from among earliest
importations, is again brought to light
among the last arrivals. 1t now has open
fronts and most retr0uSse drapery; the
bows on the back seams are replaced by
three large buttons placed lengthwise.
Dress skirts are not lined or bound with
braid, but are simply faced, and are now
provided with tapes high up in the second
side seams to tic them back on the tour
nure. r
Specially attractive among camel's.hair
costumes Is one OF the new 6eu dc nler, or
sea blue, dull light blue with gray tints.
The silk skirt has kilt plaits three inches
wide, alternately OF silk and OF camel's
hair, extending above the knee; the belted
polonaise ofcamel's hair has q silk facing
around the edge, cord loops and large
passementerie leaves down the front, a
wide belt and side sash OF silk. A CASH
mere suit OF darker sea blue has a redin-
cote with Marguerite back, double.breast-
I'd, open below the waist, square pockets
and a coachman's collar; the silk skirt has
cashmere founces, bias, very full gather
ed, and cut in points lined with silk.
Felt hats OF the same shade, trimmed
with faiIlc and ostrich plumes, are appro.
PIRATE with these rough surface dresses
Bronze, olive, dark garnet and nut.brown
suits are shown Of similar fashion
PoLKA.sPoTTRD cAsrMEREs.
These, says LeSlies Lddy'8 Journal, are
to DO seen In all the late beautiful colors,
and after the exact patterns Of many
years ago. These, with other figured
goods, are certain indications that the
French are making vigorous efforts to
supplant tho plain dress goods, which
have so long enjoyed undisputed favor.
That they will succeed in their efforts Is
extremely doubtful.
For those who have abundance OF
money and can change their attire with
every caprice Of fashion, they may attain
popularity, but hardly with ladies whose
means are restricted, and whose ward.
robes arc not very fully supplied.
For home dresses, polkaspotted cash.
mcres will be strikingly handsome, and
for the street they will be manufactured
into the polonaise, with the skirt Of the
costume Of plain cashmere Of tho color Of
the ground ofthes spotted material.
OTHER NOVELTIES.
Satin striped empress cloths are also o
, novelty. The stripes Of those TO which
. we allude are OF sGlfcolor; the body Of
! the goods Is stout, soft and flexible, and
} for a cheap, effective dress, we wonder
whether anything could be handsomer
/ They have somewhat the appearance Of
t the Sicllian poplins, and are variations Of
i, the general idea in striped fabrics Of last
season.
A new style Of brocade poplins came
, out during the week, They are Of wool
Gu, French manufacture, lntersperRed
| With bOquets OF bright or self.shaded
} flowers, and ore peculiarly striking. They
. are for polOnaiSes.
Brocade silks in the richests grounds
5 and texture, besprinkled with the bright
| cat flowers-it may be in defense Of the
4. inglorious snubbing to which dolly
! Warden" was subjected as her popularity
, .rn nnA-nrn amnnn tho lahrics nlannd aI