Mineral Point tribune. (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1869-1938, 1872-11-28
Building (is.erris.

From the American Farm Journal.
The best time to build cistern is when
the ground is dry, so that there is no wa
ter in the ground. 1t is much easier to
cement dry wall than wet one and the
wall put up dry is more apt to be water
tight. First dig your cisteru the required
size make the sides rs smooth IS possible /;
make the bottom about the shape of the
large end Of an egg--tho sides perpendic-
ular. Make your calculations to have
your arch far enough under the ground to
keep from freezing. A four-inch arch is
sufficient for cistern under ten feet in
diameter. Over that would prefer nine
inches. Where the ground is solid the
arch is all the brick work that is needed.
After the arch is turned the next step is
to put on the cement. This is the most
particular part Of the operation, as
wrong move there, will spoil the cistern.
Get the best quality of cemeni-if in the
East. the Rosedale, if in the West the
Louisville, Ky. This will cost m,re per
barrel, but will be cheaper in the end
Employ a good mechanic, and attend to
mixing the cement yourself. Do not trust
to careless hand. Take one bucket of
cement, and two OF clear, sharp sand
Put IN just enough water TO NIX, and mix
thoroughly with hoe, and have it put on
without tempcring over. Repeat the pro
cess until one heavy coat is on. II the
cement is good, by the time the first coat is
on it will be dry enough for tie second or
last one, which should Re light one, put
on smooth, and with as little troweling as
possible.
Brush the walls with a thin wash made
by mixing cement to water about til Q con-
sistency Of whitewash and the job is COM
pleted andJthe cistern ready for the water
any time alter forty eight hours. 1t would
be well where the cement is put on the
ground to lay, a fat stone or smooth brick
CA the bottom to receive the force CT the
water from the receiving pipe, which
should pass through the arch tour-inch
drain pipe will answer the purpose, also II
pipe Of The same size for an outlet, about
the bottom of the arch, will be found CON
yenient. The end OF the outlet should be
secured so rats could not make an en-
trance.
Commence cementing at the top-fir
the arch, then the sides, last the bottom!
where the ground is not solid side wall
and bottom will be necessary. Commence
by laying a course Of bricks fat around
the bottom. Then take plasterer's trowel
and spread the height of brick on the
sides, place your bricks on end, fiat side to
the wall, and hit it sufficiently hard 30
make it adhere to the walls Continue
until a course is laid. Repeat until you
are high enough for the arch, then con
tinue fat until you have only space for a
man-hole. la a siXfoot arch one foot rise
is sufficient larger arches should have
more rise. Put in the bottom with cement.
Cement the same as in the first cistern,
except that the first coat should not be SO
thick, The advantage of putting bricks
on end is, it takes less brick, leaves 10
cracks behind for slops, and saves half the
labor inlaying.
Where filter IS wanted, and | think no
cistern for house use is furnished without
one, the following is the cheapest plan
and as good as the best. Build a circular
wall in tue middle Of the cistern large
enough TO set your pump in-say three
feet ie diameter. Make it high rs the
bottom of the Cistern arch, using soft
bricks; lay in cement. 4 faur inch wall
is sufficient. The water viii filter through
tho brick aud be very pure such filter
does not need renewing about every seycu
wears.
For cistern feet IN diameter and u
feet deep, with a capacity Of 30 barrels,
barrels ot cement and 100 brick arc re-