The Elk County advocate. [volume] (Ridgway, Pa.) 1868-1883, 1872-09-19
RIDGWAY. Pa THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 1872
Fashions for Men and Women-Gentle-
mems UnderMear-Lalies' Dresses.

Fashions for Men and Women-Gentle.
mems UBderwear-Ladies' Dresses.
Harper's Bazaar gives patterns and de-
scriptionso of gentlemen's der-clothing,
and adds:
The French yoke shirt is now univers-
ally worn. There Is a fancy among
vents wrinkling the bosom, but the
greHter number prefer the old fashion of
but 5oning the bosom. A fashionable
shirt front has no pleats, but is merely
doubled linen with an inner layer of
muslin, making three thicknesses. A
row of stitching, or perhaps three or
four small cord stitched near the edge,
are the approved ornaments. These plain
bospms are easily made, easily ironed,
TAX, the starch well, and will wear bet
ter than pleated bosoms that ore alter
natoly thick and thin. When pleated
bosoms are preferred, two wide pIeats, or
at most three, are used. To keep the
shirt front smooth linen loop with q
but tcon-hole in it may be attached to the
end Of the bosom and buttoned to the
wal 5tband of the drawers. New York
Mills muslin and the Wamsutta brand
are commended for shirtings. For shirts
entirely of linen there are substantial
qua lities of linen for the body of the
shirt, and very sheer linen for the BOSOM
There should be separate supply of
cuffs as well as collars. Square cuffs of
three thicknesses of linen are buttoned
on outside the narrow wristband of the
sleeve.
LADIES COSTUMES.
The importations of Fall costumes
shoT many handsome dresses with novel
trimmings. Skirts of costumes for the
sire ct and house are unchanged in shape,
ana some, we regret to say, are long
enough to drag. slightly behind. Instead
OF the promised simplicity of trimming,
they are heavy with founces, pleatings,
bows, and other ornaments.
ovER-sKIRTs.
Oyer-skirts and polonaises abound, but
there are many handsome dresses with
out them, Or at least, with but scarf
like semblanee of them they will last
through the Winter season, but indica-
tions are that they will be gradually
abandoned. In their new shape they
are not literally upper skirts araped
over an under-skirt of similar shape, as
they now are, but are parts of upper
skirts and intricately draped breadths
desi gned, it seems to display the elab-
crate trimming of the skirt beneath.
For instance, many dresses have merely
aprons on their front breadths, while the
back widths are trimmed to the waist !;
others have the under-skirt trimmed in
front, with an over-skirt behind; while
by far the greater number have an
apron-front over-skirt with scarf-like
back breadths hanging like sashes, or in
tricately draped, twisted, and tied, in q
manner that defies description.
Polonaises are arranged with the same
scarf-Iike breadths behind, and have
sashes, belts, and position backs. The
effect of the complete costume is similar
to that now worn the front is plain and
without gathers, while the back is very
bouffant. Dresses of past seasons can be
easily changed to the new styles.
BAsaUEs AND VESTS.
The basque remains the favorite cor
sage. 1t is made with and without pos
tilion pleats. There is fancy for putting
the position pleats in the side body
seams, leaving the middle seam plain.
The seam down the middle of the back
is universal, and newest French corsages
add an extra seam, beginning on the
shoulder half way between the neck and
armholes, and extending to the end of
the basque. This makes three seams
down the middle of the back, and the
side body seams make five the side body
extends quite forward to the front.
Some modistes object to cutting up the
corfage in this fashion, but it makes q
most shapely waist. French blouse
wal 'ts will remain popular.
Vests will also continue to be worn.
In many cases they are separate from
the basque front. The basque is then
turned back in revers that meet in a
point on the breast, are fastened there
by single button, and recede below,
leaving the vest in relief about the neck
and waist. Revers Of velvet are used on
woollen and silk dresses.
Bretelles also reappear on many new
dresses. They are of velvet, bias, cut
very narrow at the waist, and extending
wider toward the shoulders. They cross
over the shoulders, and pass down the
back in similar shape. This trimming
is usually becoming, as it gives the ap-
pearance of broad shoulders and taper
ing waist.
SLEEVES.
New sleeves are simple and pretty,
having all the comfort of coat sleeve,
with the graceful effect of flowing
sleeve. They are, in fact, closely fitted
coat sleeves with the wrist turned back
from the outer seam in triangular re-
vers, while a pleated frill or gathered
ruffle is inserted in this opening, and
left to hang in the way under-sleeves
are now worn.
ABsENT-MINDED PEOPLE ARE FUNNY.
Sir Isaac Newton wanted his servant
to carry out stove that was getting too
hot. A fellow stole his dinner before
his ewes. and he afterwards thought he