The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-04-15
THE SPRING FASHIONS.
A Sunday Stroll on the Avenue-Piety in Silk
and Bijouterie- Birds Eye View OF the Ma
terials and Styles To Be Worn This Sum-
mer-What We May Expect When
the Season is in Full Bloom.


on Easter Sunday, when rain OF the most uncom-
promising character came down, as If on purpose 10
keep back the spring toilets designed for
church wear on that day Then followed Whit sun
day, and the clerk of the weather even more
obstinate in his determination To allow no Easter
fashions to grace the churches. Yesterday he re-
Tented, and permitted Old Sol To smile bcnignantly
on the avenue, although he took care 10 modify his
indulgence by genuine clustering March wind,
which had none OF the bamy April breeze about Ii.
From noon till nearly four O'Clock the avenue pre-
scented perfect Kaleidoscope of color and style in
the ever-shifng toilets that constantly passed and
repassed. The breeze rather too fresh and re-
mindful OF drifts In the West TO per-
NIT many OF the bellies To discard
OF their winter wraps, but few determined
to force an acknowledgment that the season for
spring toilets had arrived, and accordingly came
out In all their new regala. hut they constituted
the minority. Few, very few, spring costumes have
as yet made their appearance upon our prone
nades Ladies still cling TO their furs and wntry
garments, longing TO lay them aside, yet 10th to do
SO until Old sol shall have gained a decided vic
tory over wild Borcas and treacherous Jupiter
Pluvius, who have thus far bravey maintained
their supremacy, spite of all the laws Of the alma
macs.
BRIEF GLANCE At THE STYLES
likely to prevail this season, as shey appeared on
the avenue yesterday and also what will appear as
the season advances, viii be interesting 10 fair
readers. Also, prospective view OF what will be
worn during the summer viii not be out OF place.
For the present costumes en- cachemre ne
ri0ses,y; not the black ones which have long been
deservedly popular, hut Of delicate printcmps gray
cacao ait brown, richly embroidered with
garlands heading the fringe which finishes the
edges, and having detached designs OF leaves scat
"A ircp Ocru-
sionally the entire suit il Of cashmere
the quality exqusitely fine and soft
but usually the underskirt is Of silk,
either Of the same shade or slightly darker with
embroidered garland forming the heading to the
nounce and sprays ornamcntng the spaces be-
4 tween the piaits. For these costumes the
polonase has entirely superseded the Jacket and
overskirt ana tie Vatican style is preferred, nm
| less Il short cape is added
Next in favor costumes OF SIX Of the most
beautiful tints imaginabe-tmts rather than
coors for the glays are IN tlnged with brown and
the browns with gray; the greens shaded with
gold or blue or gray, reminding OF the
/ dresses worn more than quarter 81 a century
/ ago by our worthy grandmothers. In fact We have
4 heard that one OF the leading firms here sent ont
as samples or coors Tor Their SILKS Of this season
pieces OF dresses worn at that period. These lovely
mes hitherto unattainahc excepting in high
priced lalle ana gTOs grain now shown in poult
| de sole, and many OF them are repeated in other
goods, noticeaby in foulard which has greatly inn
proved in quality and is likely TO regain its good
name and reputation, which have been greatly
hazarded by the introduction during the past two
seasons OF miserable, slcazy goods not worth pur-
CHASING or making up, winch were sold ~ genuine
| ioulards.
GENUINE INDIA ForLARps.
such as appear this season, Will neither fray nor
crush easily, and, moreover most 0f them can lie
washed like ordinary muslin, and il is almost i'm
| possible to wear them out. Those in solid HtOdc
colors, either plain or twilcd, make the most dis
fiagu6 travelling costumes, and are especially de-
plated and only short stOppages to he made, a.
a lady may thus be always attired in an approprr
ate manner without additional trouble
Satin-striped foulards win be worn in Dolly Var
den" designs for ovcr'iresses, and some OF them
very lovely the satin stripe giving additional bril-
lancy to the color Of the flowers, floral design.
being the most popular. In fact, the real Dolly
Warden" designs are flowers in natural colors
black or dark brown ground but all figured good.
are now known by the same appella ton, which |.
already becoming tlreadbare from constant rel
with the style before the season is over Neyertle
less
IT IS VERY BECOMING TO MANY.
provided no proROUcee colols or designs are
adopted and IL IS retained for housewear in the
dolly Warden costumes in patterns consisting of
PLAIN goods Tor the skirt, ana figures for the polo
| naise.
These are very pretcntousy called "batistc"
CLOTH although they are In reality simply linen
finished cambria. The French "batistcr cloth is
| mixture of linen and wool Batste proper Is en-
irely of linen. nnbeached, and sheer, and Is much
used for fine lingerie.
the haflSte, Whlch VIII he so ldSntOn9hly
for suits this season. Is sheer, why, all linen and
| dark ecru color. The prettiest styles have broad
satin stripes or polka dots OF white. Suits OF this
goods are intended as change from the linen
costumes which have for so long retained their
prestige, but for which no really acceptable substi
a new quality, something between the ordinary
| linen and baste. Linen chambray rs pure linen
! goods, heavy and substantial which will Also make
servceabie travelling costumes and suits for coun.
! try wear. 80 u '1a~.
/ SUMNER MATERIALS.
\ new wash material for summer wear of colt On,
soft twilled and somewhat resembling satin lean.
| rs known as "japanese' pique. IL Is without gloss,
4 and comes IN white and bun, put mp IN boxes with
the plated trimming already made. and accom-
panied by an Illustration OF the intended design Of
the costume.
White suits promise TO he as rashionably worn rs
ever this season Many OF the handsome ones are
richly trimmed with embroidery, in most instances
wrought directly on the material Itself. These,
however, are more especially intended for nome
wear ana the only ornaments to be worn
with them are coquettish bows OF some becoming
color which are placed on the shoulders. down the
| fronts, on the back, between the shoulders and
| looping the unique. The same fancy for bows i
observable on suits Of AL Daterlals and, IN fact,
many OF the styles derive much of their chic from
| the disposition OF them White suits for street
wear are made In much the same style as to gar
niture as they were last season, but the pOonase
has almost entirely displaced the Jacket and over.
Sklrt, ana cape Is added.
Grenadines are not quite as heavy ms heretofore
and have smaller square meshes. To avoid the
weight of the extra grenadine skirt the garntnre rs
sewed directly ON silk one, and The costume is
completed by polonasc, without lining, worn
high silk waist with sleeves. The armure
grenadines, woven IN 4 pattern like the armure
silks, preferred ny many 10 those with the
\ square canvas mcshcs Handsome suits are made
Of grenadinc, with satin stripes ri various widths,
\ The wide used for the skirt AMI the narrow for
II the ovcrdrcss. rhe same goods Will he much
used for polonaiscs over SILK skirts and IL very eff
lecive. These MI black; hut, for the same par
pose. poonaises to he used with black or coored
silk skirts colored grenadines, stripes Of solid
\ color, alternating with others of gray chintZ iu
\ dolly Warden designs. Mousselinc sole. u sin
muslin. or close, fine grenadines also make lovely
Ovcrdrcsses and gaze de Chambery is as Elshion..
bic ever.
LACE Is A FrREuR FOR TRIMMING.
both black and white ana IL used in every material
to which II can appropriately bc adapted. Elegant
SIX and iouard suits trimmed with gupurc
white and unhleached, and the batiste suits are
gatniShed III the same manner, broad Insertions 10
match ornanenting the unique, III addition To tlr
, edginp. These insertions are set in, not on. the
garment, a. formerly.
The "Watteau" style Of overgarmcnt is noticcai,ly
growing Ia favor for all materials TO which IL can
nAs.lhlA be aLantnl. a nrnLlL linc. /. :.