New national era. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1870-1874, 1872-10-10

Of boiler iron and resembling snow plow IN
shape.
4 quantity just sufficient for one hat body
is placed on the feeding apron oi this ma
chine. II is drawn in, between two HORIZON
tai feeding rollers, covered with teit, and I'M
mediately seized by cylinder winch reyolvcs
about 5000 times i'll 4 minute, and winch IS
furnished with several longitudinal lines OF
stiff brushes. This generates a current OF
air which scatters the stock and blows it out
of vertical slot in the apex Of the machine.
The thin stream thus elected strikes against
a revolving copper cone which is thckiy per-
fOratcd with holes. \ current OF air. caused
by an eXhaustinG fan revolving with immense
velocity under the cone, creates suction
which draws the fur closely to lis surface.
When the stock in the machine Is exhausted,
wet cloth is placed over the cone, a metal
lie cover slipped over that, and the whole
plunged in a tank of hot water. The mat is
now removed from the cone, rs the telling
has begun to take place. This, as orr read
ers are probably aware, is due to the fact that
all fur is barbcd, from root to point. AS the
hairs are thrown on the cone in every poSNi-
! bic direction, they become interlaced SO that
by warmth, proper moisture, and manIpnla-
| ton. they may be made into tirm, close
| fabric.
| Each body is first inspected in order to de-
|
causing small portions of stock to adhere by
the aid of hot water; then it is gently worked
and rolled in piece Of blanket, and finally
packed in the bale, twenty-tOur dozen at Il
! time. 1t is in this condition that the body
reaches the halter, who sends 1t to the sizer.
| Stitching is the next process. The mate
rial is gum shellac, dissolved i'll boiling water
by the aid Of alka!ies. Across the top of the
tub in which it ia contained are two rollers
| turned by crank and pressed by the action
of a weight close together. The body, alter
being dipped to the depth of the hrim, is
passed quickly through the rollers ; then it is
refoldca, the hrim again dipped, again passed
through, and this process is repeated several
! times. The crown of the hat is not dipped,
as it gathers sufficient stitching from that
atlhcrng to the rollers. When dry, the body
has little resemblance to a hat. In fact, ii
is simply widc-moutlled bag, with 4 small
rounded end and stiff edges. Its necessary
therefore, to begin to mold it into shape. \
workman, termed blocker" is ftnnislec
with hat blocks and a trcnchcr or small
copper plate. four inches long and three
inches wide, pierced with hole in the center
large enough to admit the thumb. Ate.
soaking the body in boiling water until it i,
pliable, the operator places it upon a bloch
and shapes it with his trenchcr, continually
pouring hot water over it to keep it in proper
|
condition.
The hat thus roughly modelled it new read,
for coloring. fit is to he black, it is soakc'
in dye of logwood, yertligris, and copperas
1t is not left permanently in the kettle, bn
is removed from time to time and suspended
f in the air, the effect being to deepen th'
color. This process occupies about twely'
hours. The fancy colored dyes are rrenarct
with mOrdants. Washing follows. and thcl
the hat is rcbocked and It's size Gcterninc'
, and indicated by notches made in the ed3
I Of the briu. Pounding or rubbing the sur
/ face smooth with fine pumice is general
done by hand then The hat is ready for III
| finisher.
t Each hat beng placed upon its propc
block and kept in position by q fine thong
| strong cord, It's surface is wcttcI and Il no
iron drawn around il in the direction in w!Ec
the nap is to be. Then the bIim is tlinme
to proper shape and curled according to tn
fashion. The lining is put in by girls, an
finally the hat is ironed, packed in a nest c
half dozen in paper bandboXes, aud thu
supplied to the retail trade Scientific .idH~?i
|