New-York tribune., 1872-09-24
THE FASHIONS.
A1rr1MN OPENING DAYS.

pAsoUF-NEW COLORS-BONNETS AND HAS
-FxTRAyAGANCE IN FLowERS-JE"ELhi
AND NOVEL ACCESSORIES TO THE TOILET
The Persians say, "Ten measures OF talk
re .ept 10 The earth and took nine OF them :
nt thus delicious bit OF falls pOintess upon the
reeeption DAYS Of odiSts for 1t Is very uue tna'
the whole ten measures coOY appropriated by gen
tia woman and the creature man, for the times utterly
ignored To discuss modern fashions really spoVo'
combination one needs references among quaint hedtS
son,, vopmes as well as a French and English direo |
toirt The foIies that made our great great-grahd-
mothers so charmngy bewitching are cumhateu III 'e
nineteenth century toiletes. Says Rochefoucauld;
vanity does not overturn the virtues 1t certainly makes
them totter and Fashions ramihcations are endless
as minute. Never vas fashion more capricious than
now. and "costly thy habit as thy purse can buy
reigns pre6minent in every BRAIN Throngng al tne
counters fashionable bellies gaze lOngngy at marVeou
daintes in lace work. with nrcacies Of poetical fancy
wrought in fairy fabrics stitch by stitch; magnlncen'
silks in statuosuue beauty from richer looms than woVe
"Tbe bnghthuel silks Of fsamereand''
synerb shawls transporting the imagination to the sol
enn palms the amber Clouds the citron groves. and
,hadOwy wales OF the East
Az one Of our immense establishments silks are spe-
caltv The newest importations exhibit maGnfcenee
OF STYLE quality and colorng before exhibited in
New-York Paramount in antique beauty Is the "Da-
masccne" silk found in all coors at 8 60 yard 1t
a stripe resembling crepe, and over this and the
broche graceful vines and flowers as IN heavy
hrocade yet this silk soft and pable in folds as the
most delicate muslin OF this style is shade OF blue
white for bridal dresses and another Of the creamy tint
we ind IN the Provence rose, exceedingly becoming TO
brunetses vivid colors the Paradise greens
and blues closely initiating the hues of the peacock
tints.
''The Cashmere sicienne." 50 inches wide, thick,
soit reps superb in beauty and quality found in all
the new coors the dusky red olive gray greeD OF sage
and ocr quiet This is not expensive at 80 ayard
Here are collection Of silks, forming most brilliant
mixture and bewiderng the uninitiated in names, as
for example the Paisse bruille Pistasche; Covord;
Aquataue rather ndescribable, being as coorless as
water; the deep Pompeian red called Indenne another
ndeserbable color, very is COrbeaux; beautiful
Eucre tblue blac) Acanthe; Euxine; various tea
colors sOuchoDg and Oolong; Carmete, somber,
solemn hue Of a drab and mouse color, which is a
speoiaiis OF this establishment. The black silks are
much finer and softer than formerly. 1t has been dis
covered that the heaVness of the gros grain silks
springs altogether vitrOls and gummy substances
used In the dye which, giving fictitious thickness to
the fabric, deceived purchasers grossy In fact the SIX
very loses its gloss and becomes limp and thread
bare the foreign substances used serving to decay the
warp. The black silks much softer and hner,
and at 81 a yard. and will outwear two of the heavier
silks twcethe In lighter shades OF evening silks
is the exquisite combination Of delicate coors as tne
Rlseda apricot; again, delicious mixture OF Pinh,
salmon pale rose and rOsecair rose JdlS ana pdie oe
blue; a white, over which is cast rosy glow as Oh
vintrv sunset rlimmering upon newly fallen snow and
pale aure united that purple Gleam coming from the
yiolets bed AL Of these charming silks range In price
from g 10 &C. and the darker colors from ~ so to s The
aptauo brocaded silks unique in their superb beauty
are beyond pen description possessing all OF the deeacy
Of rare old paintings Silks lovely auroral tints and
seaoam ground superb with heavy brocadinR, and
over all a sivery simmer is cast as If moonlight had
been prisoned the meshes that wrought the graceful
design OF the foliage.
is decided that the pOlOnaise will be the garment
par erceenee the coming 1t is altogether too
popular and useful an article TO be easily discarded
This II is true will find formidable rival in
skirts and piquant basQues, and it is also
true that perhaps to some the latter is
becoming; but, generous is fashion, so
many lahtudes does she allow, that one
can safely quote ehaeon a son 0out In this
respect In making up costumes to be governed by
French taste might shrink from the extraordinary
commDgng OF too strongly contrasting cOlors were it
possible TO think that French tastes could be perverted
To this end. the Princess Of Wales wore at recent
wedding which will be largely copied here Of
the two colors blue and purple The closely jacket
Of deep purple velvet, the upper skirt OF etebue
crepe de chene and the under-skrt arranged in mix
ture of the two coors The bonnet made to CORE
pond even to long ostrich feathers Black silk
many them made in kilt plated back breadths
and aber apron fronts again In bias rufes made ex
tremely full xplated hOunces embroidery In silk or
let passmentere rich lace and elegant figures add
to the trimming black silk OF Worths make was very
eaborately trimmed with wide kilt plated hOunce
above this was similar but plating, heading
this again was a trimming Of reversed putting basque
and overskr very original in style and draping
The latter open the sides and front draped like
one Wateaus shepherdesses the wings OF such an
angel as Greuze loved to paint, but would sadly
deteriorato from the grace Of plump American angel
The tpostion basque was trimmed with the pretty
putting very distin0lle walking costume Of the sol
emn Carmete hue, in camels hair consisted OF polOD
very nearly resembling the straight pelsse worn by
our foremothers, quite gutess of bO9ant draping
Carmete should This elaborately embroidered
as was also a cape trimmed with wooen gupure lace
TO correspond The underskirt disclosed two shades Of
London smoke; these hounces and were trimmed
with the lighter shade. That this costume worth
$3.50 surprising. Yet another charming visiting
dress was made of the Carmelite silk and as this was
imported one is not amazed that with it combined
an olive green The basque and sleeves were Of the
Carmelite the vest, which very deep in fact much
below waist, Of the olive; the oversklrt with
trimmings mixture Of two colors. The skirt gar
niture was deep bOxpaited hounee, and between the
plats occupying quite space the skirt above the
Hounoe sashes Of the olive trimmed with makings
Of the two materials. The usual ncOngruity in orna
mentation shown in the edges OF the sleeves and
vest, which scaloped and mered, but piped,
the with olive, the other with Carmellte.
Never was fashion fertile In expedens avoid
the thousand and modes OF copying by the million
This the reason that excessive bou1dney will be
dropped part Ladies' happy in the possession Of fine
FORMS will adopt polonase pattern made sufficiently
full with three large plas at the back and left TO hang
straight in front Naturally the materials for such
tunes must the heaviest brocades faies and finest
cashmeres Nor will the costume Of style be ordered
this season We find mantes and capes, blouse tuncs.
a compromise between a basque and polonaise, the
DOlman many other Of distinctive styles, made OF
oamos hair CLOTH cashmere and various styles OF cloth
deliberately fringed, trimmed with handmade mohar