Yorkville enquirer. [volume] (Yorkville, S.C.) 1855-2006, 1872-12-05
Agritnltnral department.
TREATMENT OF A YOUNG ORCHARD.

TREATMENT OF A YOUNG ORCHARD.
EDITORS SOUTHERN CULT1vAToR.-1 see
in the August number of the Cultiuator sub
scriber asks how to begin and manage young
orchard, and as find great many men we'll
posted in planting and raising cotton who
know but little about orchards, l will try to
answer some Of his inquiries as briefly as pos
sible
First then be sure you get varieties suited
to your climate many varieties are worthless
when removed TO lower latitude than that
in which they originated. See that your
trees have young sound vigorous roots. Plant
none but those worked on Seeding stocks and
discard those which have been dwarfed by too
frequent transplanting this can be told by
the crooked gnarled appearance of the roots.
Fruit trees do we'll transplanted any time
from beginning of winter to within few days
ofthe time for the buds to expand in the spring.
Most fruit trees put forth small fbrous roots
in January, which late transplanting destroys.
For this reason as we'll as to allow the tree to
become we'll established in the ground before
the growing season commences, prefer trans
planting in early winter.
The apple and pear do best on level land
with deep rich soil, but as this is not always
attainable, we have to remedy the defective
nature of the land by terracing or hillside
ditching and manuring. When the ground
selected for an orchard is steep enough for the
soil to wash off and leave the roots exposed,
it is best to commence by cutting hillside
bitches and throwing the dirt on the upper
side so as to retain as much of the soil as pos
sible, and to lay off the rows equi.distant from
the ditch. On medium land the Peach, Pear
and Cherry should be planted 'eighteen to
twenty feet, and the Apple twenty to twenty
five feet each way. Farther north where trees
suffer for want of light and air, they are plan
ted thirty to forty feet apart; but here under
our summer sun, the apple suffers from the
intense heat, unless the trees stand thick enough
to shade the ground and check to some extent
ths evaporation from the soil.
After having laid off the rows each way
the desired width, dig hole at each intersec-
ton three feet square and two feet deep, keep
ing the soil and clay separate; take half a
bushel stable manure or its equivalent in COM
post adding half peck of lime if there is
none in the land, and mix with enough soil
to fill the hole. Set the tree about as deep
as it stood in the nursery, with its roots
Strengthened out in their natural position.
Fill in the compost, and tread down firmly till
even with the surrounding surface. Set a
stake on each side, to hold the tree upright,
and to protect it from injury in cultivation.
Now tie handful of broomsedge or split
corn-stalks around each tree, to protect it
from rabbits. It always beneficial to mulch
fruit trees, and suppose potato vines are an
excellent article for that purpose.
As a general rule, it is best in this climate
to train all fruit trees with short bodies and
low compact heads, to protect the bodies from
the sun. This can be done by shortening back
until shoots start where they are desired to
grow All pruning should be done in sum-
mer, and while the branches are small. The
wounds will then heal readily and leave no
unseemly scar, to mar the beauty and sap the
life of the tree. Observe carefully the num-
Der and position of the branches, and remove
those at once which will be superfuous, or
that will cross and rub each other when the
tree has attained its full size. A young or
chard needs thorough cultivation, and to this
end, it is better to plant in it some hoed crop
that will pay for the cultivation. Neither
peas nor cotton will injure the trees, if enough
vegetable manure is applied to keep the soil
rich. Neither will potatoes injure them. un-
less in drawing up the soil for the hills, the
small fibrous roots which permeate the soil
are injured or destroyed.
After the trees come into full bearing, they
will need no further cultivation, except to be
kept clean of weeds and grass, and to have a
top-dressing of manure occasionally.
Most men make the same mistake "Subscri-
ber" proposes to make. After having brought
their orchards into bearing, with much care
and solicitude, they SOW in rye oats or grass,
so as to let the hogs run on in fruit time and in
few years, the stunted appearance Of fruit
and foliage convinces them that this is no fruit
country, and they give up their orchards in
despair, not considering that the tree, in fruit
ing, needs all the food and moisture in reach
ofits roots, while the larger portion is pumped
up and appropriated by the grain or grass.
Never having seen clover tried in an or
chard, cannot speak of it with any degree of
confidence, but think it would perhaps do
we'll, if not kept too long without turning un-
der.
A bare description of the various insects
that prey upon orchards, would consume more
time than l can devote to the subject at pres
ent. J. &. JUSTICE.
Marcus, Ga, August 1872.