The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-05-05
PARIS FASHIONS.
Spring and Summer Wear The Textures
Oolors and Forms Of Feminine Finery-
The Newest Revivals in the
World Of Fashion.
PARIS. April 10, 1917.


s'sY@e PARIS. April 10, 1871
The spring and summer fashions have at length
come out In open daylight. Although the for
mer were decided on some weeks past, the
weather has been so incement that no one VEN
tured to adopt them. Since the sun has called
forth almond blossoms and wavy lilac the new
shades have likewise expanded DER shapely ngurcs
and Paris has thrown or her mourning weeds.
MoUssELINE-DE-LAINE
h among the newest revivals. That well known
tissue OF bygone days Is made up into tuniques
and pOonaises In vatican casaques and entire
suits. 1t Is preferred to the neutral tnts-stOncs,
drabs, frog and putty colors; but green In the
dowdy hues--those peculiar stagnant and reseda
green's with no brightness about them-are verita-
bic Jhrore. 1t Ia curious, but positive, that
some OF the best c0utu,teres trimming
them them with sky blue. 1t Is all In nature, as
they observe whom establishment Is expressed, and
all landscapes seen under the ornament must
cessary be slightly tinted with azure but between
a natural haze and those oiais, or crosscuts OF
blue merinO, wedged in round ones green trim
mings, there is a startling contrast. However,
dressmakcrs like 1t, and everybody must who have
no will of their own.
ANOTHER CURIOUS MIXTURE
Is olive green floss embroidery on dark stone cash>
mere. This il much used for POlonaises, now mad0
with wide, long, sweeping sleeves, and called the
dolnlan. Work OF all kind. embroidery and braid
ing, cover Outofdoor costumes. Polonaises arc
much Topped in the skirt behind and 1t requires
talent to find out how ones folds, flaps, fanA
and other imaginative draperes are to be worm
when new models are sent home. There are but
tons and loops, strings, hooks and eyes and hutton
holes In such profnse selection that some ladies'
twist their coat tails up all wrong This does not
orc wit tha ch whit occn mi
net polonalses that are lined with bright giac6
tafreta, because the design OF the work has to be-
displayed and the make ia palmer.
MORE REVEALS.
The white cha!y OF former days-not the Algerian
sort, but soft, white bombazne, with MOWERS
strewn over it, Ia Pompadour, and which the
qgrandmothers Of our generation were proud Of
is being revived for purpOse-that OF setting
trade up It's business legs again. 1t Is an extra
VACANT material because it splits when 1t ID only
looked at II Is 30 pretty IL will not bear scrutiny
The chaly which the wives OF our forcfathers wore
was OF solid make--fhe modern tissue IL not; but
1t will bc worn because it is the last thing out, and
Ia trimmed with ruclc on fringe. Some OF the pat
terms flung on this dOwny material are lovely gar
lands OF blucbels and prlmrOscs, OF myOsOtis with
rosebud bouquets, or lestoOns OF lllac The bed
hanging patterns coming back again. and IL
ladies' do not take care their dressmakers will make
them look like pcrambulating furniture, covered up
for the season. Chintz IL very pretty In it's way
Us vatican Poonaises and costumes but too much
and too often wearies An urgent request is made
that at all events tho umbeferous patterns should
be reected-thosc wide spreading leaves which
cover over u whole width--and Ii would be we'll 10
turn ones back, Also to such a pattern as the sun
flower.
VERY COSTLY EVENING TOILETS
have been worn at tie receptions held at the Elyse0
by NJ. Theirs. 1t IL now the style to wear Ones UNI
derskirts or the phteat shade and the train OF the
darker. In full dress several coOrs are blended,
but none so elrectually as the cdan0iex, tone on
tone a combination OF three Parma violet hues Ia
very lovely. The very pale green we admire at tho
foot Of those miniature bells we call lilies OF the
valley is ruched with black Chantilly lace
under rich fac train OF the stalk green. These
trains are ooped, gathered, punched and decorated
with scarf bows behind; but bows no longer figure
the butterfly sapc they fall in loops one side antr
have ends on the other.
| TEXTURES coLoRs AND GIFTS
| Sometimes colors arc contrastcd, Nile green
| and cOrinthe are mixed, as u salmon and amaran-
the or what is the great thing just now, indigo and
pale sea blue. Fonlard Is In great favor, especially
the ecrus, which are trimmed with tinted lace AMI
worn over maroon, blue and black pettlcoats OF
glace silk. The washing fibre, called swatOw, is
better employed for morning wear In all the pale.
natural tDts. species OF mohair In plain c0lorS
viii be found more economical for usual wear IL
stands ont and retains its glossy appearances to the
end. As IA rule al these textures arc made with
square, open bodice and poun-sklrt cut IN one. 4
great variety or little apencera. made OF SILK, with
out sleeves, and which correspond with the color OF
the trimmings employed on the under pettcoat,
worn square on the bosom. The muslin ones, lined
with pink, blue or lilac silk, will be found very
convenient accessory. Bodices made with
points In front; basqucs ornament them at the back
ana diminish on the sides Prayed silk and satin
Tuching, cords and tassels, curled feathers and
plating, are the trimmings preferred
B0NNETS
are very high. nat and much overloaded with rib
bon, leaves and tule. The pale sea green, trimmed
with scilienne, preferably to crepe de chene, and
white lilac appears to please most for driving The
richest ornamental wreaths are placed in trails
over the chignon and the flowers are very exqul-
site.
The peacock green and black lace, with bronze
gcranium leaves, form another elegant hat Maroon
velvet and ctisse de ngn,phe, with blue feather,
are a very effective headdress But at the Bots the
newest thing OF all is capulet Cnpnlets will be
opposcdto hats soon, In the same way as capuicts
were once antag0nistic to Montagnes. II il head
dress partaking OF the mantilla and veil when put
on, but in the hand 1t Is wreath Of flowers, over
which lace veil Is thrown and Is then artSttcaly
gathered under the chin, half concealing half dis
closing the diamond drop through the ear, half
screening the eye aud MALT hiding IT,
Muslin capulets are 20 DC worn this summer. They
are square, trimmed round with deep lace,
and are to veil wreaths OF pink blossoms. The
elderly are 10 have less virginia. capnlets but still
capucts they mean TO have, OF black lace, over
autumnal flowers and fruit garlands, clusters or
grapes cherries and blackberi'es and all that tho
hedge. row oilers. Some ladies' contend this new
style will be than bonncts, and suggest this
as an excuse for adopting it. II care i not taken
this sudden desire to have warm head in summer
will produce brain FEVER.
FANS AND rARAsOIS
mar sho,y he Word oa, When ned nm r"r tn,,
plain purpose OF tanning; but by clever urn OF
the hand the word suddenly turns into "Amor,-
which is .'Roma' read backwards. Young creatures
turn the orthodox side to papa, when he
happens to look their way, and the other
ae peas IN
elegant way OF putting 1t would be to gay "aIpen-
stocks" They are made in the ecru tnts, TO CORE
spond exactly with the ecru toilet worm The other
full dress parasols are lace white silk. with
row frils. Garden hats are made Of muslin but the
queen Of park and conservatory hats Is the wide
worn with 6chn crossed over the bosom.
fIiE ROMAN SCARF
is worn III the same way, and tied TO the waist be-