, 1872-11-02
THE. FASHIONS.


1nsau gurAtion of Autumn and Winter
Styles.
From tie Ne,o Fork Tribune, Oct. 80.
opera wraps and cloaIs offer just now strong
polnt @ OF attraction for their exceeding beauty,
Mado up Of the caremonte white cashmere, they
are spiendidly embroidered in colored silks,
palms closely initiating the palms Of India
shaWls, gay garlands in autumnal leaves, shaded
green vines Of cypress with dropping scarlet
fnchsins, purple pansies, and mossy buds; and
cred Cnot BY the five, thousand), is snowy CASH
mere, embroidered very heavily in creamy
tinted foes, and another in 80 faint pink one
wonders if it will not fade as one gazes, like the
snow. Then there are c1oaks and sacques Of
point lace through which CLEANS mstily q lin
ing OF silvery white, rose pink, OF ciel blue.
most charming cloak was OF delicate dove
gTay silk the braiding Of the Rame color was in
odd arabesque designs; intermi7ed with this
WAS rich embroidery in Oriental patterns Of
palms and ai1anthus. In the soutache braiding,
long fronds, slender waves, like the groined
arches Of old chapols, graceful ferns, and state
y palms. Ermine opera cloaks are beautifully
made up and lined with quilted satin; others arc
simply edged with ernnine. White cloth is yet
made up in sacques, but is losing caste from its
heayiness and lack Of pliancy. The beautiful
Cachemire SciIienne in light and delicate tints
forms charming evening and opera wraps, lined
with white and edged with fur
We are brought back to the days Of the First
Empire in hair arrangement with which We are
threatened, indeed have really, so to speak, ar
rived at. It the coming style is followed, hair
will have attained it's highest altitude. Instead
of dropping in the neck it is raised as high as
possible upon the apex, the buck of the neck en-
tlrely free. A few light, graceful curls may float
at the back. The hair is arranged in thick coils
or braids, in front loosely frizz1ed, and it must
from the back hair in a line from the tips of the
ears across, to form the high structure or tower
Once for all, az it has repeatedly been dwell
upon here, let it be understood that the ch1gnot
is utterly and entirely abolished, sent to Coyent
try, and as long as hair continues to have d
strong upward tendency,"a 8 new era in the
way Of wearing bonnets has dawned. Bouchers
paintings are recalled by the charming ladies
Who drive by in Vatican costumes, Like coquettlsh
sheperdesseB. The powder andlace patches and
bistre shadowing beneath the eyes, revive all the
Pompadour souvenirs, and the high hats crown
ed with feathers and nodding plunes beneath
which re know is the high pyramidaI cone OF hair
Of Josephine memory, belong to the days Of Fran
cis I. So .Wn are rather in O state OF anarchy.
Already harrow skirte, narrow at the bottom
but widening upward, have appeared. Americana
say that they arc only seen in Paris. Never
theless they are seen and worn here, ungraceful
as they are, aud so Mesdames Recamier,
Tallien, rise to confused memory, with a host OF
other short-waisted,- narrow-skirted, horrible
leg eg-of-mutton-sleeyed divinitics Of that period.
Absurd as are these anachronisms, We must look
into the future With proper submission and
equanimity. Women Of Falstafian dimensions
waists will be shortened to the arm-pits, tie
ekirts will resemble an umbrella with the handle
downwards. And then, to return to the hair
the " counterfeit presentment" can be admira-
tile front, made bald By crimpers and hot irons.
Nous rerrons! Half q dozen hairs constitute
an excellent capital nowaa-days. + they can bo
coa1ed into parting, or foundation for the
shall form an aureola over and around the brow,
the fashion Of the cofttsre ls satisfactorily ar
ranged.
The winter style Of bonnets is very much as
described before, excepting the making up OF
heavier materials Tho way in which they are
worn makes b marked change in the whole ap-
pearance. The bonnet and hat are both placed
very much at the back. The face and front hair
remain in full view, but are no longer shaded
Bonnets are less elaborate than We we're led to
anticipate A Partisan model Was extremely
elegant in its simplicity Of olve-green silk reps.
Upon one side cluster of loops Of olive ribbon;
upon the other feathers shaded in olive to white
and superb group, arranged as with an artists
hand, Of gorgeous autumn leaves. The h1k Was
placedupon the frame Quaker-1ikein its straight
ness. A beautiful French bonnet Was made Of
maroon and pearl-gray velvet. The high crown
was full puff, and large bow Of ruby velvet
berstus eS back ot ru5s 5' Ss2s sss and Bat Bses
curled feathers intermixed with gray
velvet and ruby ribbons in velvet. coquettis6
hat making one think OF paintings BY Greuze,
was OF white or creamy white velvet, faced with
pale blue, trimmed With pink and blue flowers,
and a long dropping white flower. Felt hats,,
come in all fashionable colors, gray, black,
prune, bronze, and maroon. These are trimmed
with two feathers, one must be white, the other
to correspond with the color Of the hat. At the
late expeditions, New York bonnets commanded
quite as much admiration as those imported;
in fact, they needed only the magic word
u Paris inside to deceive those who profess to
ridicule everything American. Ono Of the most
" cayalier" black velvet, the brim WAS turned
NJ. at one aide, and ornamented with cluster
of black ostrich feathers and small bouquet OF
moss roses and buds, peepine from
s1gs aas fa bow At Of 8hi black 0'ea fsbon was xe
another was yellow bronze felt. The brim Of
this Fas slightly turned all round, and faced
with dark bronze green velvet; band passed
back shaded feather fell over q wide scarf Of
velvet and long, loops Of ribbon. 4 high-crowned
velvet hat, which, adding the strings, made a
bonnet, was Of black velvet, properly trimmed
with black lace and jets. There WAS arose in
front formed Of tiny Jets strung upon wires, the
tendrils, stems, and leaves turned each way,
pnsging half around the brim. A handsome Jet
arrow behind fastened the long scarf Of lace. A
bonnet Of olive brown WAS trimmed
With light blue, the brim rolled back and faced
with folds Of blue and brown; a full, large bow
Of brown ribbon was placed directly on top; be-
hind this cluster of bronze wheats and blue
ostrich feather; upon the side, to complete this
unique hat bouquet Of tea-rose buds and dusky
foliage nestled upon the long loops of brown
ribbon.
It is not only difficult to describe the benefits,
but very difficult oven for the most experienced !
uilliners to copy the French patterns. A great |
variety a exists in the erowns The popular stylss
rouleau1 Of pretty light silk. Black velvet
pipings. Sharp wings, forest leaves tinted in |
he brightest hues ct autumn, Jet ornaments,
lowers before described, draperies OF lace and |
ribbon, and ostrich tips as we'll aa ostrich feath-
ers, and comb top to which long fringe Of jet |
is fastened, make up the garniture Of bonneta.
Evening costumes are exquisitely beautiful, I
he important models from the magic taste Of !
Worth His caprice, as limited at, is to copy
strictly tho pictures Of Josephine, Hortense,
and the court beauties Of that reign, not only
in quaint style, but colors and materials, |
Is nearly as possible. Tho most enchanting
costume at q late opening was of . creamy white
5ilk and D.! misty tnlle, draped and edged with
Tater lilies and their deep green leaves. Enor-
nous quantities Of rich damask gauze, tulle.