Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-07-22
TOWARD SUNSET
Viii.


The people of California have as a general
thing been pretty busy since the settlement OF
their state in gold digging embarrassing and
money-getting, in one way and another; but
they have nevertheless found time to do a good
deal toward developing and patronizing water
ing places. mineral springs and other places of
fashionable resort And in California, as in the
eastern states, it is considered the stylish and
necessary thing to leave the city during the
summer season. 1t must, however, be under
stood by the reader that the rules which govern
in relation TO summer resorts on the Atlantic
side are all reversed on the sunset slope, or 50
far, at least, as San Francisco and its immediate
surroundings are concerned. In the east
fashionables and invalids go to the mountains,
the sea side, or the medicinal springs, as the
case may be, to find a cooler temperature in con-
nection with saline breezes or healing waters.
Here, they leave the city during July and August
to escape the cold: to find, they will tell you,
little sunshine to bask in, rather than because
they need sea air or medicated beverages For
it Is always to be remembered that no true Cali
fornian will for moment, no, not even infer
entialIy, admit that the state in general or any
particular part of 1t is not the chosen and pecu-
liar abode of the Genius of Health. The anathe-
mas OF the Society of Pioneers and the jeers and
Kisses of Infatuated editors would be upon him IL
he did, and after that he would never be able to
hold up his head in decent society again. Still
an occasional ray of warm sunshine and a brief
escape from raw gales is pleasant thing of
itself; and, besides, perspiration may possibly
help the action of the liver and thus serve to kill
Oft the germs of disease contracted elsewhere
Any way, the people of San Francisco get Off to
these places as often as they conveniently can
and stay as long as possible. Just why the people
of the hot interior towns and valleys of ever
hina do fha \
to explain. L presume, however, it is because
that is considered the thing to do in the CITY,
and so the country follows suit, as it is very art
to do everywhere, without much regard for the
unities of the situation.
Curiously enough, too, there Is a real or fan
cied resemblance between the leading places of
resort in California and those In the eastern
states. Thus, Santa Cruz is considered the
Newport of the Pacific. Calistoga is regarded
as corresponding to Saratoga; indeed am not
sure but its name is designed in some way to
signify the Saratoga of California, as it GER
talnly would were the superfiuous letter drop
ped from the middle. A trip I'D the Columbia
river is a fair set off to a sail down the st Law
renee, while visit to the Sierra Nevadas equals
in most things and excels in several a sojourn
in the White Mountains. Bonner and Tahoe
lakes are more than match for Lake George
save in the important requisite of hotel accom-
modations. tAnd will be excused for injecting
Just here the remark that while the hotels OF
San Francisco are excellent, those of the coun-
try are as a rule simply execrable.l Then, too
the White Sulphur Springs of the Napa valley are
backed against those Of Virginia. The Geyser
combination is reckoned equal to the attractions
OF half dozen single places of resort in the
states, the Hot Springs of Arkansas thrown in,
while for nearly all the minor springs on that
| side there are corresponding localities here To
be sure, there is nothing on the Pacific coast
answering to the Falls Of Niagara or a trip up
Lake Superior: but on the other hand there Is
nothing like the Yosemite Valley anywhere els
in the world. Andif she has no Natural Bridge
she has the Biggest Trees yet discovered on the
face OF the earth. So, on the whole, the account
seems to be pretty evenly balanced. At az
rate, California has nothing to fear from com
parlson OF her wonderful and attractive feature
with those Of any other section OF equal extent
in these respects she ss certainly far more than
match for any single state in the Union, whe-
ther variety or quality OF attractions be taken
into account.
If you have not the time and means requisite &c
make general tour through the state,-that is
II you are content with hearsay evidence. For
me average Californian is not much given to
hiding the lights of his state under bushel IL
TACT he land she as wel) is apt to little OF
the other side. But this is not strange. He has
spent many years on this coast, without the
facilities of cheap or speedy communication with
the rest of the world. He has seen astonishing
developments in growth and progress in the
twenty-odd short years since he came here, with
little or no opportunity for comparing them with
those Of other quarters. He therefore naturally
contrasts his old home as he left IL with his new
nome as IL Is now ana ne Is very apt to fall into
the error of assuming that all the advance has
| been made on this side. Ii is consequently not
| strange that he should have grown somewhat
| provincial in tone, and trife boastful in his
manner. Still, justice requires that il should be
said OF the true Californian that these extrava-
CANT ideas of supremacy are in the main toler-
ably well sustained by a liberal and enterprisng
spirit In business affairs, and an Open-handea
and untiring hospitality in private life. This,
thin.., must be the testimony of all or nearly ali
visitors to California.
Although nor fairly conup within
egory OF places Of resort, properly speaking, VET
letter on that subject would hot be complete
without some mention of
THE CLIFF HOUSE.
This noted local attraction is, as almost al,
readers know, situated about five miles due
west of the city, on high sheer rock, which
overhangs and overlooks the broad and restless
waters of the Pacific ocean. Its most interest
ing feature to strangers is the far-famed seal
rocks, which lie couple of hundred yards from
the verandah, and upon which scores of i'm
mense seals or rather sea lions may be seen dis
porting themselves at almost all hours of the
day. One is puzzled to know whether the IN
calmly motions and hoarse angry barkings of
these hybrid creatures are more interesting or
repulsive; but in some way considerable time is
spent in watching them and discussing their
characteristics. From the porch of the house
the Fsrallone islands and lighthouse, situated
soous unity uiics WcstWdIu, may De seen in
very clear weather. This is extremely rare
however, and usually the heavy banks of fos
shut in the range Of vision only few rods from
the shore. Below the house which, by the vav.
Is connected with the city by most excellent
road, broad level beach extends southvsrdly
Tor about two miles Its firm bed affords An Az
ceuent drive at low tide, and the scene which II
occasionally presents during the pleasant hours
OF morning and evening, before the cold wind
rises and after 1t has died down, is lively and At
uactive in the highest degree. The proportion
OF good horses here is unusually large. Indeed.
in this respect think California is ahead OF
almost any state In the Union; but in point of
stylish turn-outs San Francisco can hardly
compare with most cities Of her size in the east
The open carriages and buggies peculiar to this
coast have, however, decidedly nobby, dashing
appearance, and ss nearly everybody drives
well or sits horse gracefully, the beach often
makes show which will compare fayorably
with the Soldiers Home at Washington or even
the Central Park in New York. Fast drivin. !.
the rule here, and what they lack in ehovy
equipages and stately demeanor thew mafe NJ,
md