The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-06-26
Confirmation Of the Old HerO's Course Through
the Empire Of the Gar.
Departure from Yalta-The Voyage to Poi-The
Old Greek Colony Of Theodosia-T Viii
lages-The Valley Of the Rion-Scenss
Along the Way-In the Heart Of
the Caucasus-Yalta, Batum,
Poti and Kutais.
KUTAIs, May 10, 1872.

this subject may well remark that this was not
the only banquet we Unexpectedly gave at the In
vitation of other people. Going upon the boat next
morning somewhat fatigued by the festivities OF
the previous night, we found a neat and
inviting collation. spread, which we were en-
gagged to partake in the most polite aud
affablc manner by an officer who had been de-
tached to accompany us, and who also invited
several other people assist In an authoritative,
ceremonious way, which did us the greatest honor.
and which made us think it was not a bad sort of
thing to be travelling as uODGgeurs de distinction
stopping here and there by the way to indulge in
the good things the respectful admiration OF the
natives caused to be set before US. The satlsfac.
tion of our meditatlons on the subject was, how
ever. slightly alleged some time afterwards, when
we were presented with bill for the whole break
FAST including everybody who had been present,
which bill our fnancier, Colonel Audenried, paid
with an air OF calm superiority and ma ter oEcourse
way that caused some doubts and apprehensions
which had been gathering around us to vanish like
chan before the wind The officer had been SO
busiy occupied, and the boat had left SO hurredly
that he had gone of and
FORGOTTEN TO PAY TIE BILL,
or what is likewise possible, he had paid it, and the
steward had been prudently laying up something
for his old age. 1t was very amusing and char
acteristic little incident, afiording food for much
unseemy and ironical mirth to some OF the party
and Mr. Curtin had to acknowledge that this time
his guests had got the better of him.
THE VOYAGE TO PoTI.
The party had taken passage for Poti, the nearest
port OF the Caucasus where 1t expected to arrive in
four days.
There is no quay at Yalta, and the landing Of
goods and passengers therefore effected by means
OF small boats and lighters, very difficult and even
dangerous operation in bad weather, as the bay Of
Yalta Is altogether unprotected the south, and
the waves sometimes come rolling in to the beach
In way that would capsize dash to pieces the
strongest boat. We were favored with calm
weather, however, and after some rowing back
ward and forward we all got safely board the
steamer, and were soon or coastng along the
southeastern shore Of the Crimea In the direction
of the Sea OF Azot.
We had an exceedingly pleasant voyage to Poti,
though 1t was somewhat monotonous and tame for
there was no bad weather and exciting events
occurred to disturb the even tenor of existence.
lazy, sleepy voyage, during which there moth
Ing to do but pace the deck, smoke cigars and watch
the ripping waters on one side glstening under
the light OF the warm sunshine, or the
ROCKY, PRECIPIToUs COAST
on the other that sometimes rose tail and dark and
threatening, or sometimes retreated from the sea
slopes, and then once again boldly advanced
out into the water and broke up into pro-
mOnIOrleS ana neadlanuS, forming little BAYS and
lnlets, and disclosing deep gorges and narrow
defes Through these de1es might occasionally
be caught slimpses of snug little valleys sur
rounded on all sides by the steep, dark mountains
but smiling like the Garden OF Eden with here and
there Tartar village, built against the side OF
steep ascent, its nat mud roofs rising above one
another like u wood stairway, shaping ever varying
forms of beauty, on which one might gaze in this
misty golden atmosphere, and dream and gaze the
livelong day, and never tire. Our boat was rather
Q dirty Old affair, of the Russian steamboat mo-
nOpoly,
MITCH GIVEN tn ATc
and bad smells, and had disgusting way of rolling
about and interfering with peoples stomachs even
In calm weather The only time was ever
sick In my lie was on this boat, while lying before
Poti, trying TO get over the bar AS to the rats,
aoSg tas se you to Occupy the cabin
as their property ut night, and respectfully but
firmly insisted upon their rights as soon as the
shadows began to gather. They had nests in the
piano, having probably an ear for music,
and they inhabited the cushions and divans
TO such an extent that one always had an
uncomfortable feeling when sitting as OF pressing
the he out OF young' and inexperienced rats who
had not yet learned the uses TO which their homes
were devoted by the outside world. The fare, how
ever was excellent and cheap far SURPRISING in
this respect anything have yet seen in Russia
and there was a very good selection of books
French and English, among which were Shakespeare
and Walter Scott, that served to while away the
time, In lieu of anything better. We were not,
party IN the world. We were, on the contrary l
am afraid, a little duh, and
PRINCE DoLGoRUKY,
who accompanied u.s. was In despair, saying he
had never seen party of Americans who drank
little or were so generally stupid and probably
with view to making up Tor the hortcomings of
others, INDUCED in DOdhd and English pale ale to
an alarming extent. The party stopped lew hours
AT kertch, situated in the strait, between the AZof
and the Black Seas, without landing and about an
hour at Theodosia, the old Greek colony whose his
tory runs back until ii Is lost in the dim twilight of
the past, 500 years before Christ
AS we had but little time to stop here we were
GSged 20 oose4t , orss n Win "a walk wal around
seen from the sea In the dusk OF the evening.
Silent and gloomy IL lay In the gathering darkness,
no lights TO be SEEM no noise OF trac to be heard,
still and leless as the dust OF the heroes who
lived and loved, and fought ana died here twenty
four hundred years ago
SPECTRE LOWERING OVER
the tomb OF brave and once mighty people.
There is little OF interest TO be seen there now,
or nothing OF the ruins that formerly rendered it
interesting and which had been respected even by
the sea so rough that 1t was impossible TO get over
the bar at the mouth of the Kion river, and alter
waiting vainly ior some hours, pitching about out
side, steam was put on and the boat sleered for
BATUa,
Turkish port on the Caucasian coast, few hours
further on, where we arrived in the evening" and
found should have wait about thirty six hours
tor q small steamer to take us back to T0ti. We
were kindly received by the Russian Consul here,
who gave us a very good breakfast, and with whom
we passed very pleasant evening. We killed time
as wen as we could walking about the squalid lit
Tie Town, which was Interesting on account OF its
Asatic and Turkish characteristics peering curl
ousy INTO the queer little shops OF the
DhZddTs OF the laillced WINDOWS OF the ha-
rems; listening at shutdown to the prayers of
OF the Mussulinen nigh up in the air as sung forth
In shrill, piercing voices nom the tops OF the slender
minarets, TO which the people In the streets below
responded by kneeng down anywhere and putting
their faces to the ground; watching them perform
their evening ablutons at the fountain and light
Ing their fire as the darkness set in on the
eaTthen floors OF the queer little shops that being
entirely open on one side served to light up the
streets with 1ickering, smoky glare not at all
disagreeable, until they went out and the night
wore and darkness settled down over the place
and no sound was heard but the occasional yelping
OF some Turkish dog more than usually annoyed in
his sumbers by the feas or the cry OF some wild
animals up in the mountains. The party also re-
ceived the visit OF the Turkish Governor, very
ugly little man. about three feet high, who was
exceedingly polite and seemed to have very fiat
tering opinion OF its greatness and distinction
ONE OF THE MOST REMARKABLE THINGS
to be observed among the customs OF the people,
and especially OF Europeans living In the East, Is
the great number OF languages sD0ken by every
body. For instance, there are some eight or nine
spoken in the family OF the Russian Consul here
Russian, English, French, German, Greek, Arabic,
Georgian, with two or three dialects OF the COun-
al ri