Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-06-01
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
STYLES FOR JUNE.
New Toflettes Going Back on the
Laundresses, Poor Dolly Warden.
etc. etc,

more frequent transit across the water. In the
hrst place, gentlemen are beginning to ride on
horseback, and in the second, ladies are be-
coming quite accustomed to drive, not their
own carriages, but their pony phatons. New
Workers have never been famous for horse
back riding; probably they were too poor when
they were young, and too busy when they were
old, to flourish greatly in that capacity. The
Bride paths have been the least frequented
portions of the Central Park and it is said the
patroimen of those sections have pocketed many
five dollar bill for seeing some unlucky, but
ambitious aspirant for distinction in this noble
art fly over his horses head, and keep what the
Tider lost, their gravity. Be that as il NAV, il Is
Ut to the side OF the ladies' phetons chat with
apparent ease, then bow low and wheel about
as though they were born and had lived all
their lives in Rotten Row. What tortures
many of them suffer in performing these
ieats the world will probably never know,
nor is there any reason why it should.
The habits of ladies who ride this season are
simple, out very stylish. Fine dark blue or in
visible green ladies' cloth, stitched or piped
with narrow folds of black corded silk-no
contrast in color except that afforded by the
grey felt or black silk hat, and neat neck-tie-
no gilt buttons, no white vests, nothing fashy
nothing pretentious. A silk band and plume or
ven upon the hat, close fitting gauntlets OF I'M
dressed kid, linen collar, and cuffs edged with
line of hand embroidery, and a tiny whip of
crossed leather, with vinageretts in the han
die; these complete the equipment. Ii way be
=,
are worn under the habit by experienced horse
women, and that the custom with some of put
ting weight in the bottom of the skirt is Sc
Vereiy censuTed. A lady who knows how to sit
her horse, aud wears a we'll skirt, does not
need this addition to keep it down, while the
effect upon the temper of the horse, and the
durability OF the habit is detrimental in the ex-
IRENE. certain style OF dress, somewhat
striking and very picturesque, is gradu-
ally being adopted by ladies who drive
their own horses in the park. A cos
tune that attracted universal attention con-
sisted Of skirt and marquise coat Of rich
pearlgrey silk, turned up with pink satin, en-
bIoidered with white silk, and bordered with
Mechiin lace. The hat was OF pink satin,
tnrned up on one side, and ornamented with
white ostrich plumes fastened with a diamond
star. Magnificent rufles of Mechlin lace fell
below the broad cuffs of embroidered satin, and
spiral ruiiies or lace ornamented the front OF
the coat.
SUMNER TOILETTEs.
Never was fashion so varied and never 90
unsatisfactory as this season. Women whose
husbands are neither in a 'ring' nor the mint
are puzzled to the verge of lunacy to decide
between the merits of linen and batiste pique
and sGtiRe, pongee and serge, Japanese silk and
fouiard chailie, and mohair crepe de chine, and
crepe armure, Organdy, and grenadine, German
toweling and India bamboo cloth, stripes, and
ch'ntZes. China grass, OF Brummagene brass
and, if they are sensible, fall back on their old
clothes, and buy nothing.
Fashion must certainly represent folly more
nearly than 1t ever did before, for motley's
almost the wear, and they who will not consent
TO wear the cap and bells are out of the world
and might as well retire TO nunnery. All
ideas OF propriety are lost sight of. Powered
bed furniture is paraded in broad daylight over
Jumps which would consign young girls to
wretchedness and seclusiOni if they were natural,
and every effort is made to falsify AID distigure
nature instead of aid and embellsh it.
The simple and useful lines and fibrous suits
which were subjects of cOngratulation a few
with cheap trimming, until they are unfit for
any lady to wear. Tucks, plaitings, ruffles and
puffDgs are all piled on twenty five cent goods
ara hnished with cotton edging at two cents
per yard, and, beng imported" are supposed
to be worth double the amount for merly charged
for really useful and ladylike costume.
When totiste first made its appearance in
quantity, early In the spring, the price fixe
at dollar to a dollar twenty-five cents Der ward
the latter for satin striped JdtiSe,) against
pence and ten pence per yard in London, which
would be about twenty-five cents here, including
the difference in gold. Ladies who bought at
those prices, or who purchased suits and cos
TUNES at from seventy-fve to a hundred and
nifty collars each, must feel deeply chagrined
when they see within two months the cost re-
duced more than half, and the market flooded
with cheap, snowy styles. which impair the value
broidered, and trimmed with cotton lace now
lay in heaps on every counter, and before the
season is over, will sell for a song, or for any
thing they will bring.
WHITE WASHING SUITS.
These also lie on the shelves for the season
that have been rendered useless TO any but
~
do them up. The cost OF this operation would
in very few times equal the entire value and
even those, who as the phrase goes, can afford
II, DO not always care TO spend their money in
this way. Moreover, these be-puffed, and be-
bounced white suits are not becoming, white
Opaque material needs careful manipulation in
any case TO render 1t graceful and free from SIT f.
ness, but when heavy pillows are rolled up on a
thick white sea, the effect can be imagined
better than II can be described. The favorite
materials for white suits made to order are soft
a fra Tnlia sI;, ~ -
costume consists of two skirts and a Jacket or
basque, and the trimming Of side plaitings laid
very narrow upon the upper part of the dress,
wider upon the lower skirt, and beaded with in
sertions of needle work, or white guipure. The
sleeve is plainly shaped to the arm, and finished
with side plating and insertions, and there is
an upright plating at the reck, with insertion
below. These suits cost seventy five dollars, and
are pretty for morning wear at the springs
BLACK GRENADINE.
Suits OF black or embroidered grenadine seem
to be more in demand than ever, possibly be-
cause they are so durable, always good style,
and 60 not require the dreaded Iaundress. The
least expensive and most practical method Of
making and wearing them is to have a walking
skirt of plain black foulard, simply hemmed,
instead OF the ordinary white skirt. No lining
Is then required, except for the waist, and this
may be Of black marcelline over silesia, which
together will not make a twilled cotton of ordi-
nary thickness. In this way the warmth end
expense Is avoided, which so many consider in.
VOWED IN the wearing OF complete costumes of
Is the fashionable style of the ason for the no.
lonaise, and is sold two yards wide, at five dol
lars per yard. The skirt is generally made of
the plain material, and trimmed with gathered
founces, cut on the bias. and edged with mar
row black guipure.
NOTHING TO WEAR.
In the midst OF the variety we miss the solid,
standard fabrics with a quality of their own
and are less dependent upon the adyentitious
circumstances of trimming, and tournure for
their effect. The striped grenadines, the hair
striped silks, the cEallies, the batiste, and the
new fimSy annures, fall fiat unless profusely
trimmed. With the single exception of the
challie, which has a fneness and softness De
culiariy its own, but which is ineffective they
nave no intrinsic value, and, therefore, are
worth nothing beyond the satisfaction of wear
ing them while they are new and fresh and
fashionable. This fact presents an obstacle 10
these ladies who will to dress well, and vet act
a. their own dressmakers. They are bewiidered
with the intricacies of the punched and bowed
WGhedns aid Marguerites, and even if thew
conld solve the problem of their creation are
still doubtful OF the wisdom of giving so much
time, labor, and money to accomplish so little;
their condition, therefore, presents another
phase of the great Flora MeFlimsy question, a
superabundance OF material, but nothing to
wear.
BoNNRTs FOR JUNE.
Ihere Is nothing new In the shape of bonnie Is
Straw being the princiDal material used and