Buchanan County bulletin. [volume] (Independence, Iowa) 1869-1891, 1872-05-03

is the price of vegetables" (see
Hints, in Ohio Eumey,) this will
apply with force to potatoes while
the bugs are out. But let us hope
that like the chinch bug, they will
leave without warning, as they
came without invitation.
Ng J. N. HovEY.
APPLE ORCHARDS.
Selecting Trees and After Manag :
In selecting the trees from the
nursery care should be taken that
they be of the best quality, if we
want success, and on this great
share of success in planting an or
chard depends. We therefore, if
possible, go to the nearest nursery
man who is located rs far north as
we are situated, and make out an
order for him to fill, specifying what
age, or size, and variety we want,
cautioning him to leave as many
roots on the trees rs possible, and
not let the roots get dry, ETC., etc.,
and select the best formed and
thriftiest young two or three year
old trees, as they will endure the
disturbance Of digging, handling,
and change of locality from the
nursery to the orchard much better
than larger and older trees. They
are more easily dug, and will have
a larger proportion of roots removed
with them than those which have
stood longer in the nursery rows
such trees will be more stocky, and
should be well branched, and will
have formed low heads, especially
for the prairie, say two feet; or for
the openings three to four feet; and
for the timber, from three to six
feet.
For the openings and the timber
good two or three year old tree
that is straight and as tall as we de-
sire it to be, although no branches
are yet formed, is preferable, be-
cause after it is set out we can clip
or cut it back to the height we wish
the head formed. Low heads are
the safest, but in the timber taller
trees can be raised because the
winds have not so much force; and,
before the timber is all cut away,
the trees are generally strong
enough to shelter and protect them
selves from the winds and SUM-
Having got our trees selected, dug,
labeled and loaded on our wagons
the roots secured with wet straw,
or marsh hay; having carried them
home with the roots kept moist, we
carefully heel them in, that is dig a
trench for the roots, each variety or
bundle separately, covering the
roots with mellow earth from the
air and sun, and they can stand for
day or two, or until the ground is
ready to receive them.
We are now ready to plant the
trees, since it is supposed that we
have selected the ground for the or
chard the fall before, plowcd it deep
and well, and sub-soiled it, leaving
the dead burrows just the distance
we want the rows of trees, say
twenty feet apart, north and south.
Then we should pillow once again,
just before we set the trees, in the
spring, making the dead burrows
ia feet cast and west, as that is
Just the distance we want to set tile
trees, in quincunx order; and when
the burrows cross one another, set
alternately, which makes just TWEEN
ty feet each way, from tree to troe,
since this will save digging part Of
the holes. In the first furrow we
set where the ridges OF the plowed
land were made in the fall before.
and the second row where the dead
burrows come.
Before we set the trees, stakes or
fence-piekcts should be set in the
burrows, as stated before, in order
to get the rows perfectly straight, and
if the trees are set about two inch
es to the north of the stake, they
will protect the trees from the noon
day sun, summer and winter, and
shield somewhat in after culture
The ground should be lcvelcd and
shaped around the stakes which are
set, to form the right depth to get
the roots not too deeply covered
only one or two inches deeper than
they stood in the nursery. Lay the
roots in their natural position, and
if they were puddlcd before being
delivered to the planter, be careful
not to break the fibers. Take them
out, bundle after bundle, from the
trench where they were heeled in,
and keep the varieties in rows to-
gcther, earliest varieties nearest the
house. When the roots are all we'll
covered, and the soil trampcd tight
with the toe of the boot toward the
tree, no injury will be done to the
roots. The ground is now made
level, and left loose on the surface,
and the trees are now safe; but if
in Il light sandy soil, a mulch should
be used as soon as the trees are
set, and then kept on the year
round.
But all cannot have the orchard
thus prepared, and must dig holes
with the spade. When this has to
be done, stake out the orchard
ground the distance required, say
twenty or twenty-four feet, either
square or in quincunx form. If the
soil is well drained, the holes may
be dug some two or three spades
deep, and three feet across at the
surface, soil being put on one side
and sub-soil on the other, and if
little undermined all the better
When finished, set the stakes first