The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1872-06-05
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
THE SUMMER EXODUS-"SOCIETY
ON THE WING.

THE SUMMER EXODUS-"SOCIETY'
ON THE WING.
Reign Of Folly and Bad Taste-Neu
Toilettes-Bad for the Washermomer u
-Bonncts and Parasols.
| NEW YORK, June l.
The exodus from the metropolis for the sum
mer months becomes more general every sea-
son; even the washerwoman must have leave
Of absence for "trip to the country" while al
for cooks and chambermaids, no experienced
''girls" who know what is due to themselves
would think for moment of remaining In
town beyond the lst of June; families, there
fore, who are 30 fashionable as to protract
their stay In city quarters beyond the limit
prescribed, run the risk OF being left to broi
their own steaks, and make their own coffee,
or entrust them to hands go inexperienced
lucky tourists. Europe monopolzes larger
proportion year by year.. 1t Is. Indispensable
now to social recognition to have been to
Europe. Formerly one could get off with
eclat by putting in an occasional appearance
at Saratoga and Newport, but that day has
gone by; not to have been to Europe is now
to own ones self socially nobody, mere
part of the great grinding, money-making
machine. Moreover, as ''mamma" thrifty
says, all the expense is saved In buying
| clothes, the difference being 30 great between
the prices of the stores il New York and the
'sshops" of London. Yy the way, it is no
longer the thing to speak of retail places OF
and to speak of them as such ts one OF
the evidences Of having been there.
SUMMER ToILETTEs.
Never was fashion 80 varied, and never SO
unsatisfactory, as this season. women, whose on
husbands are neither In "rlog" nor the
mini are puzzled 10 The verge OF lunacy to
decide between the merits Of linen and
batiste, pique and Saline, pongee and serge,
.Japaneae silk and foulsrd, cnallie and mohalr,
crepe de Chine and crepe armure, organdy
and grenadine, German towelliog and India
bamboo cloth, stripes and chlntz, China grass
or Brummagen brass, and, If they are sensi-
ble, tall back on their old clothes and bny
nothing. Fashion must certainly represent
folly more nearly than 1t ever did before, ior
molley's almost the wear, and they who WILL
not consent to wear the cap and bells are onL
of the world, and might as we'll retire to
uunnery. All ideas Of propriety are lost sight
of. FlOwered bed furniture Is paraded In
broad daylight over humps which would con-
sign young girls to wretchedness and secusion
II they were natural. and every effort Is made
to falsify and disfgure nature, Instead of aid
and embelllsh IT, The simple and useful
lines aud fiorous suits, which were subjects of
congratulation few years ago, have been
vulgarlzed and overloaded with cheap trim
ming until they are unfit for any lady to
wear.
Tncks, plaltIngs, ruffles and pufflngs are all
piled on twenty five cent goods, aud finished
with cotton edging at two cents per yard, and,
being 'Imported," are supposed to be worth
double the amount formerly charged for a
really useful and ladylike costume. When
bariste first made its appearance In quantity,
early in the spring, the price was fixed at
dollar to dollar and twenty-five CENTS per
yard, (the latter for satin.sLrped batste,)
against eight pence and ten pence per yard In
London, which would be about twenty-five
cents here, including the difference In gold.
Ladies' who bought at those prices, or who pnr-
chased suits and costumes at from seventy
five TO q hundred and fifty dollars each, must
feel deeply chagrined when they see withln
two months the cost reduced more than half,
and the market flooded with cheap, snowy
styles, which impair the value OF the whole.
Batiste suits, soutached, embroidered and
trimmed with cotton lace, now lay IN heaps ca on
every counter, and, before the season is over,
will sell for song, or for anything they will
bring.
These also lie on the shelves lor the reason
they have been rendered useless to any but
those who wish to employ French laundress
10 do them up. The cost of this operation
would In very few times equal the entire
value. aud even those who, as he phrase goes,
can afford 1t, do not always care 10 spend their
money In This Way. Moreover, these be-puffed
and be dounced white suits are not becoming;
white Opaque materials need careful manlpu.
1orIn Tn IN lar
Tree from stiffness, but when heavy pillows are
rolled up on thick while sen, the effect can
be imagined better than 1t can be described.
The iavurite materials for white snits made to
order are solt null and the transparent India
muslin. The costumes consists OF two skirts
and jacket, or basque, aud the trimming OF
side piaiLings laid very narrow upon the upper
part of the dress, wider upon the lower skirt.
and headed with insertions of needle work, or
white gulpure. The sleeve is plainly shaped
10 the arm, aud finished with side plating aud
Insertions, and there ls an upright plaillng at
the neck, with insertions below. These suits
cost seventy-fVe dollars, and are pretty for
morning wear at The springs.
BLACK GRENADlNE.
Suits of black or embroidered grenadlne
seem to be more In demand than ever, proba.
bly, because they are 30 durable, always good
style, and do not require the dreaded lann-
dress. The least expensive and most pracIl-
cal method of making and wearing them Ia to
have o waklng-sk Of plain black fouard,
simply hemmed, instead of The ordinary while
skiH. No lluing Is then required, except tor
the waist. and TINS may be Of bluck marcellne
over silesis, which together will not make q
twi,led cotton Of ordinary thickness. In this
way the warmth and expense are avoided,
which 30 many consider Involved In the
wearing of complete costumes Of black grena-
dine.
The rlbbon-strlped grenadlne Is the fashion,
able style Of the season for the polonaise, and
Is sold two yards wide, at five dullars per
yard. The skirt is generally made Of the plain
material, and trimmed with gathered flonnces
cut on the bias, aud edged with narrow black
guipure.
NOTHING TO WEAR.
In the midst of the variety we miss the solid
standard fabrics, with quality OF their own,
and are less dependent upon the adventitlous
circumstances OF trimming and tournure for
their effect. The striped grenadines, the hair
striped silk, the challles, the batiste and The
new f1msy armures fall fiat unless profnseIy
trimmed. With the single exception of the
challie, which has fneness and sOitness
peculiarly liz own, bnt which Is Ineffective,
they have no intrinsic value, and therefore are
worth nothing beyond the satisfaction oil
wearing them while they are new and fresh
| and fashionable.
BoNNETs FOR JUNE.
There is nothing new in the shape of bon.
nets, straw being the principal material used,
| and the Straight crown aud upright brim Of
last season, lined In The same Way and finish