New-York tribune., 1872-09-16

ou cop,a acroas other uuarres deserted ana all thet
dark depth Aled with water Turning from any OF tue
countless outloOks through the WOODS that invest
these ouarries you SEQ all the bright sea
life mon the waters edge you SEQ the
white sails of the fishing fleets or Of some great pilot
boat living I'm wait on the horizon or OF ship dsap-
nearing into bank Of vapor whole and intact TIL she
stands like dark phantom OF herself the mist
All the Cane deeply ndented that cove seems 10
he m much an appurtenance Of every house as yard or
garden and every family seems to have s dory as else
where IL has its chase All these and nlets make
the scenery bewderng in beauty, and the sxme drive
over the neck of the Cape from Gloucester TO Gen. But
lers house. which stands lofty bluff where Its every
window commands perfect sea-pcture Is across
rocky road which lies high and with such wderness
Of meadows underneath. meadows In every shaue Vi
vivid greens and rusty reds inerspersed with gtterns
arms of the sea and still slvery agoons Of salt water
heciing and repeating the sky, that one almost
in land of sorceTy, travelling road that hahsS
ttle further aud reach the island near 1ne
twin growth as has been said with the magnolia both
of them being exotic 10 the coast ana l0regn =, % aS
mospheTe Here there are marshes iT tbe snowwiite
sands of the Ipswich beach sparkle not vet lnYaueu ny
fashion, but With lonely tents pitched here and there
since loye seayews are nowhere to be had just OPP
pOsite them the nne-milelong line OF lno , w.,
plum Island begin separated from the reedy shore D
Plum Island River. Into this SOUND emPy tS ,S snai
the Rowley, the Parker Rivers win o.ner , slnail
streams aud It makes connection with me MerraaCk
little way above the wonderfully beauului mouth .,
the later-a mouth guarded by the long
the Salisbury sands and OF the rum lsland
ramparts. This Sound Is exceedingly shallow lana ana
mack it runs down here, so that those VINO
would sail upon it take the nall de ana are carrier saiS
its length in great bOwknots OF silver rODon DetWeen
beds Of Sn %Gd d env 40 that it's tps lust make
sparkle against the hight as you glide over them at tne
flood tde il lies broad field OF silver from shore 10
OF these marshes whose emerald green Is threaueu
by silver creeks; far down Its distance lie the pare,
brown Ipswich hills known as the Hundreds, ana toams
the white Ipswich barr far,away hills ana wo9as enei1
Gle IL two sides, and on the other SIDE te yeoW shu
hills of Plum Island like castled ruins and wreathed IN
wild smilax and poison IVY Inc waters OF ths oounu
a miracle OF color, sometimes blue or slYergray,
hank of broken shells the faintest bery and in another
place green chrysoprase with the long streamers
burning heaven through which the white gnls DART
or at night when they paint tho whole milky
cry YOU feel again like sailing in forbidden region
where the beauty is thing Of witchspes, and all the
curve Of the larger island and that Capt John Smith
pronounced excellent place for gardens an ecno an,
and refnes the rudest voice to such music that you
might Wen believe sh9al Of seasPtes had S rsg %
we're mocking you with hundred airy voices Az Ia5t
then we cross the mouth OF the Merrimaek and WIN
salisbury sands come TO the end of the Essex coast
beaches, though jut beyond them are Boar tield a
Rye and at longer intervals KIteTy and YORK, ana Od
Orchard Salisbury beach, TILL you reach the great black
rocks of Hampton River mouth, Is at low Tue uISe,
some Sgns b1SS baofs beSeath them dozen years ago
there was nothing there the lonely breaker and the
windy beachgrass and 1t was the same when Nmtlers
| 1Tent on the Beach" pitched there; but now
couple of comfortable inns and so rude cottages
nave DOpuated IT, ana during the Summer months the
season is lively one. The shore is very gradual superb
breakers Of paest green oaming in rank attr rank on
the farextending sh0al that sometimes as so Oh tn9
Plum Island sde beat to pieces the stranded sps anu
| on its long slope the Salisbury people-near whom
Whittier dwes and out OF whom came the notheIs oi
Caleb Cushing and Daniel Webster-haye had an ann1al
reunion every September for 100 years the inns ana
panlrOad bave lately changed the character OF thls
gathering from social 10 pohleai anu nOM the P1oto i
Of sC0Oo Behold it, said one Of the speakers this
gathering, year two since peturlng the unrEalea
panorama Of the place. that circng line or our Essex
coast stretching herward from the dim headlands or
Cape Ann along those cOvetndented shores OF whose
| a stately edihte rises 10 femlhd US lu SNeL3
| portion Of the land-the quarred wealth 0i
| Rockport or Of squam-by the bald Ipswich
Hundreds, their clear cut outlines IN IelleI agaht to
sky by the fantastic dunes OF Plum Island, or the am
bushed channels of the R0wley shOre hence along he
pleasurehaunted beaches OF Hampton or OF hyeaGm 4
changed aspect in the march Of cyinzng centuries
pean yisitans first trod their shingy shores; in the
intermediate distance BOars Head, its length extended
waves; and within the ark of vision the Isles OF
Shoals lying white and still like squadron OF observe
majestic sweep Essex coast, thus in its bare nea,
ments rudey drawn, scene OF natural beauty anu
ward contemplated, you shall look in vain for one OF
more varied and picturesque charms even WneIe 3 Essc
or of Grecian skies There Is the almighty sea- mere are
the yellow ever-shiftng sands we wander at our WILL
tide its bOad-dung hp wreekng roar,
Of maddened beach dragged down b the ware
lie the lovely sunit meadow levels like mosaic floor
hard by Merrimack, most industrious and Deautul
Of rivers winds in and out between its peopled banks,
until it bursts barrier of the BAR and midst the tu
of the breakers gains entrance to the sea lOnde
rivers mouth, the Warder Island nIts lS mimic
baements and towers more sure defense than the
crumbLg earthworks OF the hher shore, while beyond
and in the further distance the Odtown hills the leafy
woods OF Newbury the stately spires OF Newburyport
these in the mnging lights and shadows of magical
perspective present themselves to view"