Western Reserve chronicle. [volume] (Warren, Ohio) 1855-1921, 1872-08-28
ROME.


Rome is three cities; at least no
one knows Rome who has>not stuaied
u under its three aspects the ancleDt
the ecclesiastical, and the modern
we have visited ancient Rome: have
looked upon the ruins of its for;ner
greatness from the PalaGne Hill.
have walked down the Forum where
cicero walked, where Caesar set uD
the Democratic rostra, and Antony
pleaded pOtently for his murdered
friend; have walked under the arch
which Titus set up to celebrate his
own triumph, but which remains to
| celebrate the triumph of Christianity.
have turned aside to gaze with won
/ der on the monumental remains Of 4
TTajan and Hadrian; and have been
carried back by the ruins of the Coli.
scum 10 the tragic scenes of religious
persecution of Nero and a DOmitian.
As TO modern Rome, the less one
sees-and smells-of that the better.
we write Of Rome, let US say here,
not as 1t Is to-day under King Victor
Emanuel, but as it was under Pope
Plus TX.
we are not at hotel we are too
FAMILIAR with European travel to pay
hrst-class prices for third class accom-
modatlons. We have taken apart
ments In the house Ofa Roman family.
who reserve what is eleanIy for their
tenants, and the opposite for them
selves. In all these Roman lodgings
there Is something exteriOrly grand.
Ihey are old, deeayed, in a measure
dilapidated, and yet there is a charm
IN their very antiquity. They are
not convenient lOdging-houses, are
often dark and damp and cheerless.
put thSy Rre-What shall I saw >
Roman NO other word expresses il.
With their covered terraces, their
obscure corridors. their tumbling
staircases, their unswept halls, they
are repulsive to tie housekeeper, but
attractive to the antiquaTy. YOd
respect them, but it is only for their
old age. The very loungers who hang
about the door form picturesque
groups-if you do not come too near.
Our landlord is, believe, a Roman
noble. His chief source of income is
the petty rent he receives from the
apartments in the front of the house
he and his family live in the rear.
In Rome industry is not aristoeratic,
but dirt is. The father and the son
frequent cafe, drink water-for the
Romans are not intemperate-read a
newspaper, and talk italian politics.
The young ladies, of whom there are
two, remain in slatterly morning
gowns till the afternoon promenade,
when you may see them on the streets
dressed like ladies, and carrying
themselves as those who know by
experience nothing Of poverty. The
aim of true Romans life is to do
nothing, or as near it as possible. If
you are inclined to find fault with
your own apartments-and they will
not bear to be measured by American
standards-go into theirs. They are
mere kennels; the dirt and confusion
which reign would strike dismRy into
the heart of citizen of the Fourth
Ward of New York city. The public
halls partake If this Roman charac-
teristie. They are never swept.
They constitute in fact, a private
street, for there is no porter, and the
main door stands open day and night;
a rather disagreea6le street to enter,
also late in the evening, for there is
no light in the hall. We carry
matches and taper in our pockets,
or else grOpe our way up 10 our own
apartments as best we can, wildly
remembering and vainIy striving to
forget, the fearful stories we have
read in childhood of italian assas-
sination.
This aspect of decay characterizes
the entire city Of Rome. 1t is the
very opposite of Paris. One typifies
the modern, the other the ancient.
Shiftlessi is the exclamation which
springs invOluntariIy to the lips of
the Yankee tourist hundred times
day. II impresses itself upon you at
every turn of every street. The mar
kets are held under large umbrellas.
The BARRIERS shop is little awning
stretched across the sidewalk. There
IS no energy, activity, industry. The
very sports are idleFs' sports, in which
two or three stalwart Romans engage,
while half q score of idle lOOkeFs-On
gather around to see.
In such city one may enjoy much;
yet it is a city of pitiful sights.
Rome is like an old man who has
acquired neither wisdom nor expert
enee by age. His hair is white, but
seraggy and awry; his clothes are not
only threadbare, they are tattered
and not over clean; he totters and
as he walks, and loves better
&c sit doing in sunny hooks; his face
IS not haggard with dissipation
here are noble capacities in his broad
brow, and restfulness and repose in
he expression OF all his features; but
here is no latent fire in his eye, no
in the lines of his
mouth, no vigOr or resOlu-
ion in any motion of his limbs; he
S guilty Of no great crimes, because
ne is guilty Of nothing great he is
'nly hOpelessly lazy.-Er.