The Portland daily press., 1872-12-06
Fashions for the Winter.

Black silk costumes have again proved to
be the most popular of the season. At vari-
Gus times ladies have declaaed themselves
weary Of black dresses, and have adopted the
new tints; but they have invariably returned
to black, since nsthing else is at once so dis
tinguished and so convenient. Two-thirds of
the latest importations consist of black suits,
and it is said that Worth's costumes for
Parisiennes are almost wholly confined to
black and dark green bronze silks. Import
ers say that as long as ladies want the finest
fabric their money can buy, and find that ar
ticle to be black silk, just SO long will black
remain in fashion; and modistes assert that
the most venerable ladies and the youngest
debutantes among their customers spend
money more lavishly for black costumes than
for any other. Hence this elegant dress still
remains the fashionable uniform for church,
visiting, the theatre, the promenade, and is
the semi-dress suit for afternoon weddings
and receptions. The choicest trimming for
such dresses is fine embroidery on the foun-
ces; elaborate jet passementerie with crimped
tape fringes, and quantity of velvet in the
way of facings, vest, waistcoat, and sashes,
are next in favor: Lace i less used at this
founces, with tablier different from the
trimming on the back breadths, are most ad-
mired. Narrow and wide founces,- some
gathered and others pleated, some plainly
edged and others scalloped, appear on the
same DRESS
Gathered founces are made much fuller
than formerly, and kilt pleats are WIDER
Sewing machine stitching is not permitted to
appear on handsome iouncss; they are fin
ished instead with rather wide hem, turned
up on the right side, and sewed with blind
stitches; velvet facings also edge founcings
at top and bottom. The basque with over
skirt is preferred for black silk costumes;
these are more stylish when finished with
straight edges, such as simple hens, folds, or
facings instead of ruffies. The Louis Quinze
style is favorite design for costumes that
are partly faille, partly velvet. Black cash
mere and alpaca suits are uniformly made
with a polonaise and single skirt. Cashmere
costumes may be deliberately trimmed with
jet and with faille sashes, but thick pleatings
and and founces make these dresses uncom-
fortably heavy. Velvet and cashmere are in
cOngruOus, as they are different shades of
black. Alpaca dresses are for service, and
it is grossly bad taste to cover them with
frills and founces. A tasteful and simple
trimming for alpaca is a deep side pleatlng
on the skirt, while the polonaise has two
bias bands piped on each edge with tiny
fold of the same
Belts are worn with all kinds of waists.
not excepting basques. Chatelaines pendent
from the waistband are universal: when
made of finely chased silver they are consid-
cred appropriate with opera costumes; the
vinaigrette, tiny opera glass, and the fan
are attached to the fanciful chains.
The tight sleeves now worn will, it is said,
revive the white lace or linen cuffs that were
formerly worn outside the sleeves. At pres
ent frills of Elace or muslin falling on the
hand edge the wrists of close sleeves
A fine barbe of Valencinnes lace tied over
collored China Grape makes a dainty garni-
ture for the neck. Two colors in contrast,
or else two shades of a color, appear in the
bows worn at the neck and throat.
The fashion of wearing the hair very high
is now fully established both for full dress and
for ordinary occasions. Huge chignons are
abolished, and hair is dressed closely to the
head. showing its natural contour, and allow
ing it to be as small as possible. There is
scarcely any such thing as ''back hair as it
is all combed straight upward from the nape
of the neck and massed on top. Irregular
and fanciful arrangements prevail for full
dress; for instance, there is cluster of fin
ger puffs, very soft and light, placed directly
on top, or else on one side, while smooth
thick tress and bunch of tiny trizzes COM
plete the couture.