The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1872-09-17

II we confne ourselves 10 English
fashions, we Of course find our first an
cestors clothed in Roman dress, or some
thlng very like it-tunic, stola and toga--
the long folds fastened by tlbule, and thu
cloak pulled over the head like hood
other head coverings being very rare
Later in the Saxon day, the hood OF
"head-rail" had become detached from
the main garment, but was an indespen
sible part OF the dress, females OF al
ranks being seldom or never seen withou,
1t, and even royal ladies wearing It under
their crowns. But this was too good
to last, and too good to hope to re-
vivG.
Ahead dress admitting OF very pretty
notifications, which we may see IN one
OF It's best forms In the pictures of Mary
Stuart, was worn in Elizabeth's reign. il
consisted Of broad cap with wired
edge, and the wire could be bent In any
way around the face. The form adopted
by the Queen Of Scots Is exceedingly
pretty-a simple dip over the forehead,
tho ears being displayed. The richest
lace was proiusely used at this time. The
ruiz, the cap, the cuffs, collars, handker-
chiefs and aprons were all adorned with
point lace, and there Is no more beautiful
ornament Tor woman than these laces,
Of which the patterns are picturesque ia
the extreme, and the manufacture a
chef dgurre Of art, though they were in
those days sometimes spoiled with blue
red and green starch.
AT the beginning Of the seventeenth
century we find pictures OF women wear.
ing their hair loose, and covered by q long
c0urre chef, with or without hood be.
meath it, descending in easy, graceful
folds, almost TO the feet; indeed, die sim
pie splendor to tho whole costume Of
Charles lis time has never been surpass.
ed. But in the head dresses there was
nothing very distinctive worn, rather a
picturesque abandon Of nature was pre-
ierred-a string Of pearls, cloud of lace
and LGiSSer dlieT.
II our fair ladies would adopt the beau.
ty OF this costume without its defects, we
should have no more to desire.
OUT OF DOORS.
For summer outdoor wear, nothing in
the world can be so beautiful and conve.
nient as the short black or white veil
worn by the Milanese and other Italian
women. The Milsnese is black veil,
about two feet square, and, of course, OF
many different qualities; it is worn in
many styles; sometimes it covers the en-.
tire face and head, and shades the neck
completely; at others it is caught up In or.
der to show the hair, in massive braids
and plaits. Sometimes it seems on the
top of the head; sometimes all at the
back OF It, with spray oil jasmine be.
hind the car. Indeed, individual taste
could hardly have better scope than in
these little wells. We are struck at Milan
by the extreme beauty and grace OF the
women, some Of them with hair powder.
ed white, others with their native dark
tresses-hut allveileG Thesame woman
in veil and in q bonnet is hardly to be
recognized: in the first she will, perhaps,
look stately and most graceful: while in
the second, with no flo~N OF folds to en-
nance the easy moyer1ents of the throat
no sOttening shadow Of delicate patterns
around lthe. shoulders-she appears stiff
land tlninteresting. . The explanation IS
not far to seek. Everybody has not the
unspeakable charm, Of carriage and ac.
ton Of a really graceful woman, any
more than everybody has a beautiful
face; but there are some fashions Of uress
which undoubtedly add grace, as there
arc Others which Sadd piquGncy, SC.
Long folds always lend q smoothneSs, an
undulating flow to the body; anything
that fills up and furnishes the sides Of the
face adds soitnCSs and roundness To- evtfl
the iairest. Something rather full and
lofty on tho top Of the head is generally
an improvement, as go many heads arc
fat or uneven at theitop. This light and
manageable italian veil has alliSorts Of
merits, as it can be gathered in any mum.
Der Of forms; and when the lace Is
mingled with flower or a broad riband,
it is, perhaps, the most entirely satisfac.
tory head dress that can be found. ~
There is really no reason why this
should not be adopted in England. The
material might cost just as much or Just
us little as one chose-from five shillings
to fifty pounds; white Grape veil would
not last shorter time than white Grape
bonnet, and there would be no wires TO
press the head when the heat makes cloth.
ing ofany kind a nuisance; while black
lace veil would last long time, would
preserve the greatest OF all charms, a
snowy neck, and be lighter than hat.
And how beautiful would affair English
girls face appear in Il.
IN DOORS.
For indoor wear we could wish more
head dresses were ID iYogue, Hair unor-
namentea, when plentiful and when pref.
tily arranged, Is always beautiful, of
course; but there are 80 many cases where,
from the hair not being ola very finecol.
or, or the complexion being pale or imper'
feet, some decoration Of the head would
be vast Improvement The simple rib
bon or snood that many young girls wear,
simply passed around the hair and tied, Is
an extremely good and SIMPLE fashion,
and, when the color Is well chosen, often
makes bad coarse brown appear richer
and the face clearer. The net, in vogue
some years ago, may be a beautiful orna.
ment Agold net, or one netted in colors
and beads, especially light blue, Is very
pretty and appropriate, but the hair re.
quires To be tastelully arranged beneath
1t. The slovenly habit OF Just brushing
tho hair into tail, and then passing a rei
over 1t, so that the net hangs down long
and only halftllled, viii never do; no hall
Is sufficiently abundant to i'll out q mel
well without some care In arrangement a
! the same time hard and illdisguised pad
ding IS equally out OF place The hair
usually requires to DO waved, and ther
gathered up broadly and shortly-tht
10 show the color Of the hair within it,
1t lisa pity that caps are so entirely for
} gotten by young people. They seem &c
be considered iit only Tor servants ant
great.grandmothers Even middle ageC
ladies fancy that by assuming q cap, they
. are renouncing youth; whereas by contin
/. / ,,fnE, a., A. .anNat. -. ii!