The New York herald., 1872-12-01
WINTER FASHIONS.
What the Cold Weather Has
Brought Forth.
VARIOUS STYLES IN FURs.
The Redingote for Street Wear
The Dolman.


Ever since the first cold blast from Boreas pre-.
senued excuse for their use, furs have been
worn more generally than at any season before;
and now that "the Winter winds are YEARLY
sighingn and we have 'the Winter snow,-
albeit not quite 'knee-deep," they are decidedly
at premium. Our old friend, the dis
ttngue sealskin jacket, is, If possible,
greater favorite than ever, and comes to US in q
new style, known the "Lucca"-a handsomely
shaped, half-ntting, double-breasted sacque; also
as the "Opera'-a loose, double breasted sacque,
slashed at the sides and in the pack-a great i'm
provement on the very short, too close ones
of last season. With these young ladies wear
the new style sealskin turban, cut after an
improved shape, so as, to 1T more COM
fortably over the coi0are. This viii hardly be =
recommendation, however, II the cOtDaye con-
tinues to grow higher and sbeautifully less" as it
has been doing for some time past for the symp-
toms at present are that there will soon be no
couture Ito speak or for one to fit over. The
seaskin sets, consisting Of boa and mu1, are also
very fashionable, but most appropriately
worn with cloth costumes Perhaps the
MOST POPULAR OF ALL FURs
worn this season Is the black marten, variOusly
known as Alaska sable, black sable and stOne-mar-
ten. It Is comparatively inexpensive, and at the
same time very rich and dressy in efect ana it Is
now SO scientifically prepared and cured that there
is possible danger of betrayal Of its question:
able origin, even though it be in the warmest
room. The very newest Of the expensive
flrs are the black and silver fox. The
hair both is long, as neecy and
fluffy marabou and soft to the touch as
Russian sable. The black fox, sometimes called
blue, is neither blue nor black, but peculiar tint,
rich dark gray; but the silver fox is more appro-
priately named, and is OF beautiful silver gray
color. Both OF these furs are more used in bands
OF various widths for trimming than for independ-
ent sets, and the use of them for this purpose
cessitates set of the same fur to be worn with
the suit.
IN FITTED GARMENTS FOR STREET WEAR
the redingote is decidedly the favorite. The leaf-
ing style is known the "Neilson," perfectly
loose in 'front.' with the back fitted in and
held in position by belt underneath,
ana less b0ubant than formerly very fre.
quenty only looped at the sides. 1t is worn belted
or not most frequently falling perfectly loose
in front, and Is made up indiscriminately in
Fashionable, but undenably ugly in appearance
and effect the camcls hair cloth really gives some
a or e saX a receh M aas Dy fa
been speculatng by selling army blankets to the
ladies Tor their redingotes.
IN THE FASHION
this season must have Goldman :, but tho
variety of garments known by this comprehensive
well versed In fashionable minutin. The name
"doman'--properly pronounced dole-mOng-is a
French word meaning hussars Jacket, which gar
ment Is worn by French hussar when in full uni
form, hanging from the right shoulder.
When the garment, or rather the name. wa8
pressed into the service OF the ladies, 1t waa
applied to a loose sacque, with seam down
the back. having perfectly straight demi-
back and not joined together like ordinary
sleeves--which were not intended for use, but
were allowed to hang loosely from the shoulders,
VAT nrnV T.
tonhOles, or loops, the entire length on the inner
side, SO that, II desired, they could be closed TINS
was sometimes worn In the regular hussar style.
Fashion demanded q change, and the name still
remaining popular, by some process of reasoning,
to any garment used for street wear which had
long, hanging sleeves depending below the sifea
indecision lee as to- what a adomans proper roper is is. ~
The garment to which at present the name seema
most properly to belong Is sacque with long, how-
ing sleeves, and having the armholes cut particu-
larry large and OF peculiar shape that it can I'D
easily adjusted over any other garment, thus rend
ering it especially appropriate Tor an evening wrap
an Independent cloak.
or this style are two known as the "Royal' and
on the bottom and q Vatican plait In the back,
the other much palmer and quite as comfortable.
the name h1weyer Is qnits as p9pSlary appnea %
Is cut much in the shape OF the old favorite, the
"Metternich" mantle, but improved, and provided
with elastic bands, placed under the arms, so that
the sacque shape is retained as nearly as possole
These the only really practical styles OF the So
called uOImanS. IHe OLnef styles are neither
Portable nor becoming, ana require great guam
ty OF goods which has to be cut up to no purpose.
EVENING WEAR.
Among the most beautiful articles for evening
wear white cashmere sacques take the lead. Some
of these are quilted with white satin and edged
with ermne. Others are embroidered in a
creamy floss and finished with deep white
yak. Next to an white come ONE. the white
tations are exquislte-palms, resembling
those OF India shawls, gay wreaths OF autumnal
vii w n bnQ a
ments fastened with large clasps OF oxydized
silver, bearing grifns and Egyptian heads. Novel;
Observation-Disclosures, are also to be seen. Long
sacques Of heavy silk, lined with with quilted
q along long, pointed hood, attract the gaze Of Won
dering sight-seers. Who will wear them When
and whereS A silk sacque OF lovely green,
trimmed with wide bands OF fine peacock feathers,
also drew much attention. In fact the profusiou
of highly-colored garments. with their bold COM
mentation makes wonder at the lavish outlay
OF StOrekeeperS ana ask ourselves "What will they
do with those left on hand 9n
There is q revival in many things Of quite old
styles for everyday wear. Large, old-iashioned
square wells for example, square nandker-
frnged borders side pockets Of leather, with belt
and strap attached, gilt or steel mounted, and
mounted in puffs on the top or at the back OF the
head. Very antique these, but unbecomng TO but
very few.
again reganng their popularity and are dis
posed in innumerable graceful ways usually at the
side low down on the skirt II for the house, and
still on the side but supporting the looping IL
used on street garment. For house wear these
are frequently OF contrasting color.
It is matter Of congratulation that black velvet
ribbons are regaining their well-merited vogue as
garniture. Besides being always effective, there
such propriety on SO wide variety Of goods and
their durability is beyond question.
All widths promise TO be fashionable, but more
especially the narrow ones, which can be so ef-
fectively used In clusters and various designs and
as supplementary trimming to folds or platings.
The modistes as yet give no sign as TO what the
holidays will bring forth for the New Years rccep.
tions. But OF these more anon.
THE DANISH ININlATIQN