Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-08-17
TOW RID SUNSET
samnering on the Pacific Coast $.
THE NEWPORT oF THE rACl

/ eastern aTchei, pc, on rather beautiful sheet
| OF water, and for the further reason that it.
/ US 'oIS pc compelled ID travel over nearly 2
| nile OF hot dusty road 20 reach the beach. With
| These two features in common al likeness he
| tween the places ceases, % fer, at least, as [
! have been able - discover. Yet. for ali this
! Santa Cruz Is richly worth TIE visiting: a. vel
/ for the excellent sea bathing, ns for the very
! pleasant experiences in ..aysl one mag enjoy In
| he goiug and coming.
| Row TO GET THERE.
| Between San Francisco and Santa Cruz
which, by the way, IS thc only place on the near
| Pacific coast where |he essentials OF warm tenn
| Torature and good sUrf PRE- combined, there arc
! three routes open - tie choice OF the ,avcIer
| All o. these are pleasant in themselves, and
each presents some attraction peculiar to itself
! One is an all sea route; another by rail, down
| trough the Santa Clara, G.lroy and PaiarO
| valleys, TO Watsonvlle, thence by coach follow
ing the shore line of Monterey Bav westgarl{v:
! the third, by cars TO San Jose, ami from there
! directly across the mountains sputhwar3ly by
wagon road. Having tried al of them, | fee
| Tree - counsel those who may come after me t.
! make their return Uip by the route last men
| toned, whichever way they choose downward.
THE OCEAN ROUTE.
| Tie ride by sea hes the advantage of being
the quickest in point OF time, and also of being
| &c matter OF course, the freest from heat ami
| fOrnia The later consideration will have great
| weight. Aside from these, however, the easy
| lazy, swinging, elday sal! along the coast Is
! not without quiet charm OF its own. Pushing
| out from the busy harbOr and passing between
| the picturesque portals Of the Golden q ate, in
| little while you are out on tie blue Pacific in
whose broad waters the sun and moon and stars
90 Down. Soon you have passed beyond the
| whiriIng Moses OF fog into WI m quiet sun
! shine which seems To have won a richer haze
4 and snlfas Inva~
months OF uninterrupted glow. Cushioned uI-
| Cer0cath an awning deck it l. like ''cating
| the lOtrs OF the Nile" TO be rocked and swung
by the sTaylng motion OF the sea; to have your
| brow famed by breezes blowing in fresh from
-"the isles
OF Ternste and Tidore, whence merchants bring
| Their spicy drugs
20 lounge and idly gaze at the flocKs OF pelicans
! moving in long slow lines along the water edge;
to watch over the sides OF your vessel the fleets
Of SAILING nautilus or Portuguese men of war,
| whose course always seems to lie with YOURS,
| but who, Gett mariners that they are, forever
| manage in some mysterious way to keep from
| under the Row OF your switter sailing ship.
firing of these, you turn TO study the beautiful
| play OF light aid shadow on tie tawny hills
| along the coast, whose dun sides are gashed just
| enough here and there with rayines OF dark
| green mes and live oak to rest the eye and
| give soothing variety to the scene. Thus the
| day goes by, and before you have thought 10
! take note of time you are alongside the long
| high trail-lOoking pier of Santa Cruz, running
with its hundred legs far out into the still bright
! waters OF Montery Bay, your journey at al end
| THE VALLEY ROUTE.
| The route by way of jacksonville takes the
| ,ayeler dOwI. The whole length of the boosted
| Santa Clara valley, through broad fields OF
golden gram, past PretentioGs villas and modest
| cottages, and through score OF thriving and
| leeI full looking towrs. A. the lower end the
! Cost range On the one side and the DiablO
| range CT the other come in close together 10
| make the perrow IGss through which the rat
| tljng Train fms its way into the valley OF san
Juan or GilTCy, aS it is yariously called This,
! IN trUr, IL ICON 'aveIsed, and after following
| ne river through L?rIow and crooked deEle
! for few miles
| PAJARO VALLEY,
| qpiet and beautiful, comes into yiew This
! lovely lille spot lVronoUHced Pal are, BIZ the
| way IS - other valleys a, Bonner Is to other
| l?Hes,-au unmatched gem. Almost circular IN
! form, and 80 small that the eye can easily take
| ia IS whole extent at one view, it nestles be-
| ,|een q setting Of fue hills Ike most beauti-
| iGl picture in a rich frame OF the choicest
| design. Its climate is OF the mldest and most
| eCIabe, and its near proximity 20 the sea gives
| il steady moisture which inSures in turn a
| richer growth CT heritage ard a greater variety
! OF color to the landscape than are commonly
| seen Oh this coast, where yellow and brown are
| The prevailing summer tin. Taken alt 1gctLar
consider this the finest little valley have seen
| anywhere IN the state; and looking ar its varied
| charms and many inviting features one easily
realizes the fitness Of its expressive Christening.
! Pa 0,-"bOme OF the bird
/ Mounting coach here, and ascending the low
| q vide which separates the valley from the sea
| coast proper, grateful salty flavor Is soon per
cepdble in tie air, aud Eenoetorth + the end OF
| the ride the dark blue waves and sparkling
| white caIs q the Pacific are constantly in view
! SANTA CRU2.
Measuring II by the standard of eastern sea-
side resorts, the visitor il very likely 10 be at
| first somewhat disappointed in Santa Cruz. Ii
| lies in cuytCusiy formed deep basin, which
| must have been filed with water at no remote
| period, about mile frcm the waters edge. To
make ma,,ers worse, it is shut out from all view
OF the sea by high intervening bluff. There
| is. moreover, smell Of taIbark and an oior OF
| pungent dyes IL the atmosphere, and tie san
| LorerZo "a hrawling brook in the summer
| which becomes raging torrent in winter-tske-
| color from the sawdust of the ,dHOod and
| fIOm the tanneTles and wooden mills on banks
! that is anything bgt attractive TO the eye. The
| town Is, however, q place OF considerable bust
ness activity, its population of nearly five thou
| sHrd souls find 2g steady occupation in the
| extensive works OF the California Powder Com
| Iany srd the other manufacturing establish
| ments near by. And IS a summer place, IL i'm
| proves rapidly on acquaintance, particularly
| 4en its surroundings are taken into Account.
| Fruit, flowers, and the finest of foliage prevail
| everywhere in the greatest profusiOn. The
| adjacent country is fertile and pleasant TO look
| on; the bay, when once III view, IL fine body
, of water, with noble back ground setting OF
1
| elevated and picturesque peaks whose tops tower
| above the clouds that much OF the time hang
| low on the opposite shore. As for the bathing
| It will compare with that TO be had anywhere
| The beach, which slopes gently down TO deep
| water, is smooth and firm, the water is clean
| and o. Ile9 Saut temperature, and tine surf rolls
| in with An oyerpOwering brit apparently well reg
| ulated force which is high and strong enough 10
| be impressive sDd exciting on the one hand, and
| yet not de 1gerous or unpleasant on the other.
And what stately far-coming swell il has!
| Bathers in the Atlantic think it fine thing TO
buffet against waves which they boast come
| in from the Azores and the "vex'd Bermoothes;'
| but here you avel in surf born on the shores
| OF Asia and rolled in by spice-laden winds across
an unbroken sweep of six thousand miles, Give
! your imagination little play and you may al
most fancy that itbrings You the soft music of
bells tinkling on the porcelain towers of far
| .thay and the whirring of bird OF paradise
wings among the drowsy PHILIPPINES.
| But bathing is not the only attrac. on at Santa
| Cruz. 1t can furnish or is within easy reach of
| something suited - nearly every reasonable
| taste. Near at hand are to be found some of the
| hnest redwood forests on the whole coast
| Gods first and grandest temples. The bay and
| the upper waters of the San Lorenzo afford ex-
eellent fishing; small game is abundant, and for