The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-06-08

joyous feelings, only to submit TO all the imaginary
trials OF a camel's back.
PREPARING FOR THE DESERT JOURNEY.
We watched the packing and simultaneously dis
cussed the most CONNIE IL nm way to be Frustrated
on the ground. Aldermanic proportions were con-
sdered needless appendages, and too densey
packed brains were also deplored as inducing a
dangerous top-heavness. The blacks were smarty
at work by ten on the morning OF the 18TH slowing
their cameis feed, durrah and barley, in their
plated saddle bags; filling the skins with water,
and putting the crude baggage saddles in order.
water skin is the hide of goat and Is stripped
from the animal as q man would remove shirt
from his body. The neck and other apertures are
sowed up or wound with strong string and one leg
is left in readiness to open by an easily adjusted
knot Each skin contains In the average five gal
Ions OF water. We carried eighty of them. More
than one hundred cames had been driven In from
the surrounding country, by order nom the Vice
roy and Mahomet Eifendi told us that we could
have as many we desired Fifty were declared
to be enough, and finally started with fortytwo,
three donkeys and nineteen servants. Abd-el-
Wahed, the aged one-eyed cook, was the commits.
sary of the occasion, and sedulOusly bestowed all
his vigilance on three sheep, coop full of chickens
and desert range. We also took three large cir
cular wall tents, rendered us by the Governor Of
four hours. The town is delightfully."- situated
at the base of high rocky mountains, in
a quiet valley, Overgrown with luXuriant ver-
dure. But the habtations are not less wretched
than those of the humblest Nile villages. In stroll
ing through the streets l met several KorOskoan
ladies whose toilettes were neither slightly nor sa-
worry, and upon being rendered a significant glance
indicated that was amisogynist sneu the ladies
retired.
DEPARTURE OF THE CARAVAN FROM KORosKO.
BY two O'Clock the caravan was ready to move.
II had provisions for fifteen days. water for eight,
and two guides who had paced the desert highway
for twenty years. The Governor the Project, the
telegraph operator, who is no inconsiderabe per-
sonage in these parts; the Sheik of the Desert an
aged, handsome, dignihed Nubian Arab and the
people of Korosko, all at the river bank to
us OF. The caravan started ahead and defled by
the narrow gorge, taking slow, measured pace,
induced by the 10000 pounds Of baggage water and
supplies
AS we were about to mount our dromedarcs for
the first time boat nut or from the Grifen, which
had hove in ssightssarly in the morning, and we
awaited the coming of our recent rivals, who
pulled ashore to bid us goodby. A discussion i'm
mediately arose as to whether it would be advis-
able to ride or and leave them in the lurch rather
than make Yankee" spectacle for Punch in their
presence, by being thrown from the saddle; but
our apprehensons were soothed, and, after the
compliments of the day, we were rail-fenced into
the sky by that peculiar movement of the camel
when he rises from his sprawling posture by hing
ing on his six JOINTS beginning at the forward hip
Preceded by the Governor and Project, we felt our
way among the nasty rocks and difficult paths
which last for two hours after leaving kOrosko
Half mile beyond the town we halted and said the
adieus, The scenery at
THE NORTHERN DOOR OF THE DESERT
Is most barren and deSOlate. SlOpinp hills of dark
rock form q deep ravine which is paved with
boulders, shifting sands and dead camels The
rocks are too angular, their edges evdencng too
loose stratcation and the general features OF the
bluffs and crags too hard and irregular to believe
that the extraordinary appearance OF this section
of the desert arose from any other than remote
but violent commissions. Indeed, volcanic action is
evident to the most casual observer. After three
hours OF travel and none OF incident or adv enture
we halted eight miles from Korosko and
ENCAMPED UPON SANDY PLAIN,
under the shelter OF overshadowing hills. 1t had
been our intention to make the stand as we did, in
order to send back to korosko for any articles unpro
yided or forgotten but we found this unnecessary.
The tents were pitched after all the practical science
possessed by the Egyptian which IS by no means ex
tensve. In matters pertaining to their own habits
beyond. in the field Of sports, with sails, guns
hardy pastimes, and in the use of tools, or in
Soys Of New YORK That this truth
we did not know at Korosko we had experienced
at Aboo-Hanmed
OUR FIRST NIGHT ON THE DESERT
was eventful to all OF us. Every member OF the
party had seen rough campaigning and Consul
General Butler. General Starring and Mr.. Morris,
in Texas, Mexico, and among the mountains and
plains and rivers OF North and South America,
though never before in the deserts OF Central
Africa. In the first place this trip has been made
only by the most intrepid and famous travellers.
If do not err the Nubian Desert has been crossed
only by Burkhardt, Bayard Taylor, the son of Sir
Robert Peel, Captains Spoke and Grant, Mr.
Petherick and wife, Sir Samuel and Lady Baker,
the Tinnie family and suite thirteen Austrian
missionaries, Dr. Knoeblecher, DR.. BrOwnell of New
York, who died above KhartOum OF gastric fever
and OF whom will speak again, and a few Greek
and Italian merchants Bayard Taylor and
DR.. Brownell are the only Americans vino have ever
been as high as Berber. Said Pacha was the first
and only vceroy OF Egypt who ever visited the
Soudan and rs a monarch he rode In a carriage
and had many other conveniences which only vast
fortunes can supply to the ordinary traveller. The
route Of the desert, while Of great antiquity, has
been closed several times by the government, on
account OF the frequent loss OF life from want OF
water or the terrible slmooms which, beginning at
the Red Sea- sweep over Its surface and bury every
living thing to say nothing OF the intensity of the
heat. Said Pacha was the last, believe, to say
mo THoROUGHFAREln
Trade suffered so severely when the route was
closed that the SOndan as province became nearly
foreign appendage. IL is impossible to transport
ivory and gum and the other Central African pro-
ducts by the Nile from Berber to Korosko the year
round The Nile Is too shallow, the cataracts too
distance three times the short cut across the
desert; hence this pathway was reopened, and is
now probably the most frequently travelled of any
desert highway of the world.
OUR CAMP APPARATUS
was quite simple, and yet not SO primitive as to
entitle us to the claim Of savages We carried
eight plates, knives and forks four glasses green
painted pine table, upon which l am writing,
and few OF the minor articles Of table furniture.
We had no bedsteads OF any kind-only blankets
and rugs. When we bivouacked on the evening of
the 18th inst our first camp presented very
animated and picturesque appearance. The main
tent, in which we were 10 sleep, was the pivotal
ngure-giving us q circular area OF fifteen feet in
diameter. few yards distant was the Kitchen
tent, raised upon this occasion for dining tent,
yet on the following evenings 1t was devoted to
culinary science of Abdl-el-Wahcd who, though
not actually cooking therein, used 1t as the reposi-
tory of his stores Two tents were thus sufficient
tor our household regime, and always formed the
nucleus OF our nomadic village. few feet distant
from the
CHATEAU DE T0ILE
was the aged Abd-eWahed, with his immortal
range, his one eye, his tongs, his ambitious
Goals and his kissing mutton scnrvy pigeons,
and without potatoes. Abd-eWahed was nestled
among boxes, stoves, charcoal, and gathered
about him all the cite of the third estate, who
were his devoted friends and admirers. The
baggage camels were disposed upon the ground
few yards distant, being fed their grain by the
camel boys, and uttering those loud, yelping
sounds. COmUOund hOpS "A lion a