Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1872-09-04
THE FASHIONS.
what the Women are 70 Wear this Fan
and Winter.


Boots, Jewelry, Laces, Etc.
Fall goods, says the Boston AdUertiser,
are not yet opened to any extent, bul
we are told what the impOrtati0ns are,
and fall fashions are already announced.
Silks and fine wOOlens are in beautiful
variety, but solid colors viii prevail.
I Piaids have had their day, and are shown
now only for children, and usually in
small irregular piaids of two cOlOrs. The
large startling plaids that have been
worn for few years have so dispieased
/ people of taste that the whOle
class of goods is out of favor. The wide,
7 snowy stripes offered for the winter viii
4 probably have a similar effect, and make
all stripes questionable. But the beau
tiful plain goods, the best Of all, are sure
Of favor. The finest wOOlens are twflled
or have the rep running Iengthwise, and
] the cost trifie more than goods Of the
same quality did last year. Among the
NEW THINGS
are a Iustrous gros-Qrain sil6with threads
Of medium size, aud q damask-fgured
wOolen. called jacquard. The figures
4 are raised and Of a higher shade than
the ground. The prevailing colOrs are
! bronze, brown, and green, in every pos
sible tint. High eOlOrs are seen only in
/ cheap materials; nice goods are olive
brown, an almost black myrtle brown,
rust color, a pistachiO brown, sepia, dust
color, smoke color, rock color, dove col
OF, wOod-pigeOn, reindeer, Gchen gray,
IlesQnge, and dozen other eoiors with
fancifnI names, but all are peculiar and
I subdued, and the dark shades are richer,
more elegant, and in every way more
1 desirable than anything offered before
J for street dresses. Various
COMBINATIONS
of blue and green have taken the place
I Of the two clear cOlOrs, and are named
/ from the creature whose color they i'm
/ itate-king fisher, lizard, serpent and so
1 on. The polOnaise will be worn, but
may be made of Q different material
| from the skirt. The heaviest jacquard
I is especially fitted for it, and 80 is soft,
/ thick silk, like old-fashioned levantine,
which is imported for this fall; it has q
black ground, with figures, or a leafy
7 pattern in the dark color. Tints nearly
I as soft and refined are produced in va
riety of cheaper and very desirable
goods. French sGtiRes, jacquard pop
I Inns, cashmeres, and fine, wide delaines.
FOR THE NEXT MONTH
Persian foulard and Tussore silk will be
much worn. TussOre is q firm fabric,
wears well, is improved by being wash
ed. makes the best OF travelling dresses,
and vet when richly embroidered is
handsome. The price here is extra0r
binary; the plain silk is i've dollars a
ward. and the cost Of the embroidered
robes is immense, in proportion TO their
price in Calcutta, where they are made.
There a dress pattern covered with del
icste embroidery, which will wash,
costs nine dollars, and a plain one only
three dollars. It is a pity that so useful
material should not be imported in
large quantities and sold at a reasonable
price.
EMBROIDERY
or solid needle-wOrk is TO be the most
fashionable trimming for dresses; and for
variety the silk may be cut out in pat
tern, and lace or grenadine inserted,
mounted and finished with hand EN-
broidery. For WOOlen dresses velvet
ribbon viii be much used; also, innu-l
merable rows of French folds. Flat trim
mings are taking the place Of puffs and
plaitings on Overskirts, pOlOnasises and
sashes, but the underskirt is fioUneed, as
usual, though sometimes made plain. A
handsome
STREET DRESS
may be made without overskirt by ruff
fing the back of the skirt to the waist
and trimming the front with perpen-
dicular bands of velvet, tapering from
the bottom of the skirt to the waist, with
the space between them Ornamented
with bows Of silk and velvet. This is
worn with a sleeveless Cashmere basque
Of the same color, trimmed with heavy
fringe headed by velvet ribbon put on
In a Greeeian pattern. Walking skirts
should clear the ground. Sleeves are
cut closet at the wrist than they have
been, nigh on the shoulders, and more
like coat sleeves, finished with q cuff,
or trimmed at the top and just above
the elbow.
OVERSkIRTS
are made in two parts, the apren with !
out fullness,- rounded at the sides,
and overlapping the back, where
it is finished with large bow, or is lost
in the fantastic lOOpings and the ample
fullness of the back. Long trains are
no longer in fashion, even for full dress. |
The most elegant skirt need not be more
than sixty-five inches long. Clusters of
bias folds, each two inches wide, three
in a cluster, with French fold for head |
ing, make pretty trimming for dress
Of alpaca, or any material Of that kind.
THE NEW PATTERNS
for Jackets and polonaises differ very lit /
tie from those Of the spring, and no new
outside garment has appeared with the |
exception of the French redingOte and |
douiilette, both modified forms of the \
polonaise. The redingOte is Of cloth, |
and made without drapery, q sort of
long plain basque or StfrtO1a. The dOu- |
illette Of silk or velvet, richly trimmed |
with lace and passementerie. ~
THE REDINGoTE
NAV be embroidered in solid bands OF
tapering stripes, as best suits the figure |
of the wearer. Grape, ribbon, and lace |
searfs are worn in all sorts Of fanciful !
and graceful ways on the bonnet, on the |
neck. round the waist-indeed, wherever ]
they viii look pretty; and when they |
are well managed they have charming |
effect.
five may believe the fashion plates,
the French and the English bonnets are /
smaller than ever, and the little there
Is of them IS turned Up before and be
hind, crowned with a large bow and |
a bunch Of flowers, and perched on the /
top Of the head dressed with braids and 4
curls.
THE NEW YORK BONNETs
have the same indescribable frame, but 4
are trimmed so they look larger. The
front Is q rolled coronet, the crown hight
and tapering, the trimming massed be-
hind and the bonnet wore back on the
head. Bonnets are made Of velvet, silk,
or felt, in all the new cOlors; they are all
Of one shade, or Of two widely-diferent
Of the same color--one very dark,
the other very light; or Of contrasted
eolors. Few black bOnnets are shown;
there is an effort 70 displace them, as
well as black cashmere polOnaises, in
favor Of the new eolors; but really cold
weather win probably bring velvet back
again. All bOnnets have
LONG STRINGS
to tie under the chin, and may be
with loops, knots, and bows Of
watered glace or qras fdiHe ribbon, with
quantities Of thread lace; with loops of
dark velvet faced with light silk; with
light streamers, long sprays Of leaves,
osfrieh tips, let bandeaux with a tiny
searf of flfruuoise cOlored silk, drawn
through the openings, and other let or
1an,e1ts. As MANY Of these things as
nossihle may be put on one bonnet; the
yerv limited size of the frame is the only
Iimit TO the ornament. Jet bead trim
nings are made in great variety, in flex-
Ne Scarfs. ia fringes, in birds, flowers,
feathers, and sprays, aid foF these iantas-
tic bOnnets.
THE FRENCH FASHIONS