American citizen. [volume] (Canton, Miss.) 1864-1890, 1872-12-14
The Doctrine of Evolution as Affecting
Fashion.

Though Mr.. Darwin's doctrine of Evo
luton remains an undemonstratpd theory,
it is susceptible of interesting application
to various phases of human life ard So
further proof of his ingenuity in adopt
ing it to the develo pment in dress, which
he does in Ia recent number of Macmillan s
Magazine. The general idea of develop
ment in dress is the same as that of ''se-
lection as applied to the successive
species of human life, one form yielding
To a succeeding form better adapted to
new Surroundings and conditions, but re-
producing characteristic remnants of a
former condition. There are many an
alogies between certain forms of dress to-
day and those of former age which are
curious enough in their relations to the
doctrine of Evolution. A few instances
may be cited. The narrow black bands
which clergymen wear about their necks
seem TO be utterly useless, but their pres
ent retention can be explained by tracing
the intermediate stages through which
they have passed in coming down from
the serviceable wide collars WORN In the
days of Milton. and still retained in their
original shape by some OF the Cambridge
chofisters. So it is with the hat-band,
the only present use of which is to conceal
the scam joining the crown to the brim.
But these hat-bands are the legitimate
y
where the present bands are used, for the
purpose of fitting the hood to the head.
This change of function is similar to the
development, traced by Mr.. Darwin, of
the swimming bladders of fishes, which
give them lightness in the water. into the
lungs OF mammals and birds for sup
porting animal heat. The stOve-pipe
hat itself is the result of a series OF evo-
buttons from the cocktails of the seven
tenth century, and the silk of which it is
made was suggested at the first for the
purpose OF Initiating the fur originally
used. The gentleman's coat of the pres
ent day affords several curious instances
of this development. Take the two but
tons which are universally found on the
back Just above the slit in the cOat-tails.
Thes. are of no possible use, but are the
remnants of a necessity several hundred
years old, when the vest was used as a
coat is now. and was fastened behind by
short strap attached to two buttons.
Flapping coat-tails, now made avaHa5ie
for pockets, were originally employed on
account OF the general custom, and even
necessity OF horseback riding. SO in uni
forms. 1t was customary at one time to
turn up the corners of the cOat-tails ;
hence in many OF the uniforms made now,
the buttons, along with change of color
in material in these flaps behind. are re-
tanned, while the practice of actually turn
ing back the cOat-tallS has been discOn-
tinued. Nearly all coats, to-day, are made
with the semblance of cuffs even the but
tons are sewed on to complete the coun-
terfeit. This is simply conforming to the
rule OF reproducing the characteristics of
former species, as when coats were made
of silks and velvets, and were very ex-
pensive it was customary to turn back the
cuffs, i'm order not to soil them. The Gus
tom of making the collars of uniforms of
color differing from the coat itself is
simply a tradition of the time of great
coats, when the collars were turned back
and showed the lining. In boots, it is a
general practice to make the tops bright
color, though, covered by the pantaloons,
they are never seen. 1t comes down from
the old top boots, worn with knee breech-
es, which were frequently turned back so
as to display the inside lining. Numer-
Gus other Developments of similar ma
tn-e might be traced-Chicugo Tribune,
Nov. II.