Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1872-01-22
woMEN's FASHIONS.
The RstheiAes Of Dreas-COIIars, CUFFS,
Eecktles. CIOth Costumes, CaIieOes.

When We compare the aesthetics OF dress
and style which obtained in this country
thirty years since with the law of taste
which now governs these important mat
tels, q contrast q startling as Is Is vast
at once presents itself TO b mind. So
c1ety WRs then very differently conatitu-
ted, and had not been educated to rely
on special lawsi In that regard. Individu-
al opinion, to q great degree, regulated
our apparel and our N OF living,
Fashion, in an artistic sense was confined
to the few who had wealth and leisure,
and ever these felt little desire to i'm
prove on the customs and styles which
had been in vogue since the beginning ol
the century. Indeed it scarcely entered
their minds that the application of q pos
tive law could secur to them apparel
which should slWays be beautiful and
becoming, without special care ou
their own part. They were quite con
tent to be old fashioned, because nobody
had yet taught them that new fashions
might be invented which would make
them more charming than they are. Our
rapid advancement In wealth and refine
ment has brought with it the culture OF
tsste in dress as q necessity. 1t is not too
much to say, In fact, that the axiom might
be reversed with perfect truth, and the
rule laid down that the study of artistic
conventionalities In dress, regulated by q
purihsd judgment, exerts an immense
influence in refining the manners and
habits of q people. At sill events tbs two
are so closely connected as to render this
fact indisputable-that the cultivation OF
the mind presuppOses sn add care oil
the body, and the more widely-extended
that mental cultivation, the greater de-
gree of taste will be evinced in the
adOrnment Of the person. The Same Rd-
vancement in wealth and taste and edu-
cation has taken advantage of the dis
turbed condition of fashion circles In
Europe, and by displaying an inventive
power and energy that was not dreamed
of ten years ago, have succeeded In es-
tablishing here q mart of fashion which
promises to eclipse the glory of Paris In
its best days.
COLLARS AND CUFFS.
There is not much change In the style of
these little adjunets to complete dress,
except that plain linen collars and cuffs,
made Of very fine material, are more
generally used now than ever before. The
prettiest collar Is made of but one thick
ness of linen, with q band of the material
stitched to border it; IL is q dat collar,
quite narrow at the back, and brosdens
In front to moderate-siGsd points; the
square cuff fastens with linen buttons. A
CO1khI Will = bbdnulnk Dduuf oukou Will
embroidery, has turnover embroidered
points. The cuff to match has embroidery
about two inches deep on the upper side,
which narrows 70 IN edge on the un-
der part of the cuff. A stylish
collar has what Is called q cascade
bow Of Valenciennes lace and needle
work, which Is q sort of spiral
or ladder arrangement which falls half
the length of the wrist. Large collars or
.L-- ~ 1890 IL .Lg-A 2-..-lg--r
dressy. The collars which can only be
worn with a silk or some equally dressy
material, show very exquisite shades OF
salmon, pink, blue, and s few other tints;
they are edged with blonde lace, with
Nalenciennes, Duchess, and sometimes
with black lace.
EEoKTIEs.
The scarf made OF the thinneat white
and edged with q deep fall of lace,
is exceedingly becoming to most ladies.
Handsome silk of some bright color, fin
isbed with white lscs, makes q pretty tie
to be Wor with q black silk dress. Very
ties are Of the soft twilled India
silk, cut bias, and hsmmed on the sides;
they are finished with Q rich tassel fringe.
favorite Colors are the fsintest shadss
Of blue, the pslest green snd rose, and
wheat is perhaps the prettiesL of allan
exquisite tint Of frou-trOu or salmon color.
CLOTH COSTUMES.
Among the importations from France
this winter there Is q peculiar style of
cloth costume that Is in great demand
Is gray. The costume has q polonaise
with vest; the skirt opens widely below
the waist to show the dress skirt, which
Is ornsmented on the front breadth with
heavy sOutsohe, or with cords as thick as
3 lsdy's hoger. A crsvat of fsille, the
color Of the dress, Is fastened below the
with a slip-knot, and the ends are
tied again at the waist.
sALIooKs.
American cslicoes OF the well known
brands that sell for ten or twelve-and-a-
half cents 8 yard are IN narrow stripes or
nexsgonsl, or other small figures. These
are made in useful gored wrappers, Ga
o~rielles, with fullness added In the back, |
.ust below b belt. A separate belt of
,he calico, to which a short postillion is
attached behind, is pretty with these
wrappers. Tasteful ladies sometimes
the bsck of the waist to form
hess Of the skirt. The belt then begins
)nly. Very narrow belts of Russian
Gather, russell, brown or black, with lines
# gilt near the edges, are worn with cali
70 morning gowns. Housewives have
pretty chstelaine bags or keys and notes
to these, or else pendants for
or scissors, thimble and tiny
ashton. A fold Of sheer white lawn Is
led with a bow at the throat or else q
muslin rune Is around the neck
down the frOnE to the belt, and also
round the wrists.