The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-09-10
THE HASSLER EXPEDITION.
FROM PANAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO.
AcapuIcO---The Beauties Of the Bay and
Drawbacks Of the Town.
THE PROFESSOR AND the SNAKE CHARMER
Orchilla Gatherers and Their
Staple.
San Diego and the Stars and
Stripes.
A Visit to the Ruins of the First
Catholic Mission. al
THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE AT LAST.
An Astonishing Array Of Specimens Secured.
$500 Gallons Of Alcohol Consumed.
END OF AGASSIZ'S GREAT WORK.
San Diego and the Stars and
Stripes.
A Visit to the Ruins of the First
Catholic Mission. sl
THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE At LAST.
An Astonishing Array Of Specimens Secured---
$500 Gallons Of Alcohol Consumed
END OF AGASSIZ'S GREAT WORK.

UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY STEAMER HAssLER,
SAN FRANCISCO, Sept 2, 1872 J
We left Panama early on the morning of July "a
glad to resume our voyage although our stay
there had been both pleasant and profitable. The
morning was spent In an unsuccessful search for
some rocks reported to exist in the vicinity OF Bona
Island. Failing to find them we departed about
noon and continued on our course to the north
ward. short stop was made on the following
morning while we hauled the dredge in 600 fathoms
Of water. The bottom was found to consist OF dark
blue mud containing
A FEW ANNELIDs, BUT NO OTHER ANIMAL LIFE.
Then We ran on. usually in full sight Of the Next
can shore when 1t not obscured by rain storms,
passing Montuosa Nicanta and Coiba Islands. and
enjoying the beauty and variety OF the coast
scenery, the freshnessand verdure OF the hills
contrasting with the grandeur and sublimity OF the
more distant volcanic peaks
On the afternoon of the 31st steamer was
sighted standing to tho southwark, which proved
to be the California, belonging to the Pacific
Mall Steamship Company. When we had
neared her sufficiently one Of our boats was
lowered and an officer boarded her, returning
with the latest newspapers, lump OF ice and
the compliments OF her captain. We proceeded on
our way after the usual interchange Of nautical
Civilties by clipping" to each other. The next
morning we reached the locality where, In 1858,
Her Majesty's steamer Tartar struck on shoal or
the coast OF Mexico No chart Of 1t has since been
published, and no accurate knowledge of its posi-
ton or extent had ever been obtained. Vessels
coming down the coast went miles out Of their way
to avoid it, those OF the Pacific Mail Steamship
Company running from fifteen to eighteen miles
from land when four miles would have been per-
fectly safe distance. The Hassler was
ANCHORED ON THE suoAI,
and the succeeding two days were passed In the
work OF surveying It, running in that time perhaps
nifty or sixty miles OF soundings in all directions,
and fixing withoEonsiderable accuracy its limits
and confguratlon About sunset on the second
day a furious storm came up from the southwark
which was decidedly the most severe that we have
encountered on this coast, and only to be CON-
pared in our experience with the 'williwawsr OF
the Straits. The rain which accompanied 1t
came in horizontal instead Of vertical
sheets. The ship was heeled over several
degrees by Its violence, and some petres and
cormorants were dslodged nom their places
OF refuge on the rigging and were blown out to sea-
IL was fortunately Of but short duration and did no
serious damage. The next morning we ran up
along the coast In the direction Of Acapulco. AS
we approached the shore, standing In for this har-
Dor, the breeze which came over the land would
alone have suficed to inform us Of our proximity.
1t was perfumed as though fresh from q thousand
lighthouses.
ODoROUs WITH TROPICAL BLOSSOMS
and was a delightful assurance OF the luxuriance
or vegetation Of which we soon had more tangible
proofs. Late In the afternoon we passed In be.
tween two high hills and entered the Bay OF AGA
puico, said to be one OF the safest In the world;
certainly one OF the most beautiful 1t Is land
locked on every side completely encircled by high
mountains 30 covered with forests from base
to summit that hardly bare rock Is visible.
1t Is only about three miles long and one
and half wide, but its very diminutve-
ness serves to render its exquisite beauty
more prominent The rich green OF the mountain
SIDES the smooth blue waters OF the bay, the
groves of graceful cocoa trees and spreading ban
vans along the shores, the picturesqueness Of the
old fort which commands the town and harbor, and
the general air OF repose and pacldity combine to
make the place wonderfully attractive, and In the
opinion OF more than Of as, to exceed In beauty
even the world.renowned Bay OF Rio. The town,
however presents sad contrast to the natural
advantages OF the harbor, and an equally sad OK.
ample OF the pitiful indolent, incomplete
CHARACTER OF TROPICAL CIVILIZATION.
The streets are dirty, irregular and almost un-
paved; the houses OF one story built of adobe and
whitewashcd on the outside, furnished In the case
OF the natives with chair, table and hammock, or
often with hammock alone. No business what
ever seems to be prosecuted winch does not de-
pend directly upon tie steamships which visit the
port aud then it consists principally OF the sale of
fruits and fancy Shell work to the passengers. On
the evening OF our arrival the Montana, which
happened to be at anchor there, was completely
surrounded by the long, narrow canoes OF the
natives, who were shouting and gesticulating try
Ing to underbid each other, waving Naming pine
torches In one hand while displaying their wares
IN the other, and keeping the whole place Ia an up
roar until her departure.
On walking through the streets one is occasion.
ally requested to buy some tr1ng article but Is
never beset with any energy, and a refusal seems
to be accepted with about as much satisfaction as
an assent. The town market Is held IN the plaza,
In front Of the Old tumble-down cathedral, meat
llsh fruit and vegetables being set out under little
booths or directly the ground, while sellers and
purchasers chatter and squabble with more energy
than they exhibit In any other occupation. The
natives arc not uncomely,
TEE YOUNGER WOMEN ESPECIALLY
being remarkable for symmetry OF form and the
ease and grace Of their bearing. They are scantily
clothed, as bcnts the climate and spend most OF
their time lounging In the shade or swinging In
hammocks. The only communication OF any i'm
portance which this port has with the interior is
by means OF road which runs over the mountains
at an elevation OF 5000 feet, and then descends
across the level plains to the old city OF Mexico.
A few OF our party, who took ride over the first
ten miles of this road well repaid by its rich.
ness ard beauty. At FIRST II runs between leafy
hedges, bounding fields, half cultivated with
residing in little bamboo OF cane huts by
the roadside; then, after crossing several shallow
where we stopped to refresh ourselves
with the cool, sweet milk from the nuts, and
were waited on by swarthy damse, who
RELUCTANTLY LEFT HER HAMMOCK
for that purpose. Then the path begins to grow