Knoxville daily chronicle. [volume] (Knoxville, Tenn.) 1870-1882, 1872-10-27
OUR NEW YORK LETTER.
Full and Interesting Fashion. Notes for
the LadieS...Fan Suits..H0w Made, OF
What Material and all about Them.

| great dressmaking establishment, and dal
ly some branch, twig, or leaf f1utters
before us, decked out in bright, new raj
ment; so in self-defence we come to the
consideration of fall styles.
Walking suits are made of silk, poplin
cashmere or alpaca, and the colors the
most distingue are the olive, gray
green, very dark green, as paon green
bronze, brown, and prime blue; these are
known as cloth colOrs.
Two shades of the same color, and a
light and dark shade of different colors,
are much worn. Black and neutral tints
trimmed with colors are striking and
elegant.
With suits of black and subdued shades,
neckties of warm, bright colors, rs claret,
ruby, garnet, violet and peacock green, are
worn with good effect, while some prefer
to match the neck ribbon and hat trim
mings to one of the shades in the suit. In
this resrCct, as in all others concerning
dress, due attention should be paid to the
complexion most stylish made suit of
one of the cloth colOrs may endanger the
face of the wearer, when a judiciOusly
chosen tie will remove the difficulty. The
prime blue will be found particularly be-
coming to blondes.
For evening wear the delicate tints of
mauve, pink, green and blue are worn.
The pOlOnaises this fall are extremely
short and pulled great deal in the back.
This neceSsitates deep trimming On the
II RI ho frOn hrnoHth 10 MT
ly trimmed with perpendicular stripes, or
narrow gathered rutfies, while tlounces
gathered or plated extend up the back
breadths to meet the pOlOnaise.
Basques and overskirts are worn quite as
much as polonaiseS. Some suits are trim
med up the back breadths to within a few
inches of the waist, the OverSkirt being
apron-shaped in front and reaching to the
trimming, which is quite deep, land passing
around the waist and tying in the back
with long tabs. Again the trimming may
extend up the front breadth to the waist
the ovcrskirt consisting merely of large
puff in the back. When the trimming ex-
tends up the back breadths the dress is
suitable merely as walking suit, as the
beauty is destroyed if the successive rows
of trimming become cTumpled.
Heavy silks are trimmed very richly
with velvet.
We have Noticed very elegant suit of
gray green groS grain silk. The front
breadth was trimmed to meet the short
poiOnaise, with horizontal stripes of dark
olive velvet bound with the gray green
silk, and bows of silk bound with the vel
vet were placed in the center of each stripe
and at each end; the back breadths were
trimmed with graduated ruffies of silk
bound with velvet, and bOXplated on with
spaces between each three plaits to allow
for a bow Of velvet bound with silk. The
polonaise was Ofgray green silk trimmed
with fold of olive velvet bound with silks,
trimmed nearly to the shoulder with folds
of velvet bound with silk; sleeveless vest
of olive velvet was worn.
Velvet vests without sleeves are worn
over suits of any material, and for house
were may give an air Of elegance to dress
become slightly pdsSc,
When suits are of two shades the sleeves
are frequently Of one shade and the waist
of another.
For other garments besides the velvet
vests, tunics, and paletots, of gray or black
cashmere, deliberately braided, or trimmed
with jet passementerie and fringe or lace,
are worn.
Dresses are still made very long, but it
is to he hoped that before the time of snow
and mud they will be made to clear.
MOlTc dIlllIlueSj UIOCducu SllhS,dH IIlOSS
embroidered by hand, make elegant dim
ner costumes for married ladies.
Silk neck handkerchiefs of all the popu-
lar shades, trimmed with fringe, have ta-
ken the place of the lace fichus worn in
the summer. Roses made of silk or Grape,
to be worn at the neck, accompanied by a
bud to be worn in the hair, are general IA
vorites.
Turkey morocco and Russia leather
belts, accompanied by the small shopping
bag fastened to the belt at the side, are
still much Worn.
Plated waists are made of every mate
rial, and by means of them several styl-
ish costumes may be made out of two or
three suits When made of silk and
trimmed with lace on the plaits, they are
stylish for evening wear with organdie or
tarletan skirts.
In chignons the heavy braid Topped in
the back, is still worn, while there seems
to be a tendency to draw the hair high up
on the head in heavy coil of braids,
leaving the nape of the neck exposed. The
latter will probably be the style for the win
ter. Pompadour, short transverse puffs,
and the corOnet braid, are all worn.
Felt hats with high tapering crowns,
and small rolled brims are quite dis
tingue. They are stylishly worn, with
ribbon of the same shade passed plainly
around, and joining with a stiff bow OH
the side, but they may be trimmed with
silk and velvet, and plumes. Feathers
have taken the place of flowers, and come
in all the popular shades. Peacock feath-
ers are very stylish.