The New York herald., 1872-09-20

The First Reception Of the
iau b.s nsuFickle Goddess. a.,.
soaedT foeH lolIawn. -. IL. - ia.7a rs ol bn
.saA slhbiM eil 30 e.niT eop ods orr1Ua .ls
90 5WHATT0 WEAR AID HOW, TO WEAR L..
ai saloi ri lida AZ vel oios odi aebi al3 nc
'1ow ad q 1sl oa ,I8g joG sad i risbsw8 gn
How tho Female Form Divine Is 10
Eti ioisulo Be Clad This Winter. .bns rni
u5 Ue1 as l7o.t7s- ----.----. -.-----2 ri eoliq rf
-53a a,I sln Lsfoc sl3 11sSO. iadi u y..les ga :
hna Waits from the Salons OF,
e'a7ob . ed lin the Modiste. e8'oa a+
's sao haG mollSos3 % 90 ,ooDuoToe scl
siiqa u s. G0iiqmB7-TT - EHs ,n-3-itgcr4 .st
o.b The Bonnet Of the Period and
,,i',,.s w. ,',''l'i' fri 81, How II Looks,
A GLANCE, INTO TIE FUTURE.

T.
Opening day In the fashion world, whether for
Spring or Autumn, Ia a very deceptive date. Ask
any Of our modistes and you win ind certain air
sf dignfned renoRstrance against being classed In
che same category with their cons1mrs. They say
that some fair partner Ia still In Paris 10y the way,
ehey said the same thing when the Germans were
bombarding the city. buying up Worth or some
ether millinery Colossus and that in fortnight the
entire Custom House force win be at work upon the
avalanche Of modes precipitated upon the unhappy
oG1cers from the other side Of the Atlantic. Yet Q
number OF the fair priestesses Of fashion have put
their houses in order and are prepared to exhibit
whatever is worth engaging the attention OF their
customers. Many OF the best houses, however, win
not open regularly for the Fan and Winter season
nntil the second week in October. The extraordt
nary pranks lately played by the Clerk of the
Weather have placed the returned pilgrims from
the watering places in quandary. They don't
know yet whether the Summer, with IT'S scorching
neat, has definitely given way to genial Autumn
or not. Yet fashion is memorable, and styles must
be selected forthwith, no matter how dear the
hight Summer fabrics may be. But to plunge in
Osedtas res. l2'nN T ID -ts ,ny Ulll ar
Time was when the shape of Q chapeau was the
principal pOint but, nous GUOS change tout celia.
Now 1t ls the trimming which mparts che requisite
cAt0 and the original style Of the foundation Is
only discernible on the closest examination. The
shapes In both hats and bOnnets-but in b0nnets
especialy-are decidedly peculiar. not to say &C.
centric. Moreover, they are decidedly accOmmo-
dating II one is placed pretty well forward on
che head ana worn without strings it is dubbed a
hat; but II the fancy suggests that strings may be
Added and 1t Is placed further back, behold 1t Is
sonnet. Thus how easily may an economical lady
ma no orac chano dO hutv
Nevertheless there are
uei DISTINCTIVE STYLES IN HATS AND BoNNRrs.
Many Of the old favorites have reappeared with
slight notifications In hats the brims are rather mar.
row, some rolled, others turned up Ia Louis XVI,
some droopng and others rolled up closely In turban
style. The crowns are high and sloping, and the
choice seems about equally divided between the
nat and round tops. In bonnets, the most graceful
shape, and one almost universally becoming, has o
Gather high, tapering crown, rolled cOr0net and
. small cape. On this shape, to give 1t the full
enect, the trimming should be massed in the back,
% - 10 impart high, slender effect.
The coronet front il found in most shapes; capes
are in the majority, either narrow and close now
ing and divided in flutes, or faring and cut up in
the middle, giving the effect OF wings; some have
broad, low, nat crowns and others have high, ta.
pering ones like the hats. A shape always pretty,
and very generally becoming, has O high 'Marie
Antoinette'' crown supplemented by q gypsy brim
sembes low-crowned sailor hat. with 'y yerv nv
broad brim turned up all around. One variety has
the brim caught up on one side, near the back.
but has rather ''wide awake" efYcct. 'T''
On both hats and bonnets the trimming is
maSsed either on one side or In the back, leaving
the rest almost bare, so as to give the full effect to
Jet is used to an almost unlimited extent-not in
che 0ld-stye heavy blocks, but In graceful sprays,
1exible coronets and variety OF light, beautiful
y Flowers seem to have the preference to fea theirs
for Autumn wear, and will most probably be used
In conjunction with feathers all through tho Winter.
novelty In feathers are the shaded ones, with
edges. Watered ribbons are revived from obscurity
and win be much used. although they never can
replace the rich gros grains. 7-ti'" 'ii" 40 4
LACE WILL BE USED r5'r3 ,
20 more than usual extent Very little face
simple lace ruche or ribbon or silk plating.
Very long streamers are worn, reaching often be-
low the waist. Sometimes there are two one very
long and the other much shorter, but more fire.
Qnently there Is only one. Long lace wells are
substituted for or used In conjunction with them.
A lovely hat at Madame Demorest's, intended
the "Lucca" This is of a novel exquisite shade of
lilac torquolse SILK, with high puned crown,
deep shtrr forming narrow brim and arranged so
as to form part OF the trimming The rest OF the gar.
niture consists Of bows OF the slk long streamers
Wings 81 S ans sssn SsG'S eo p
bined. The tout epsenble is perfect. '0,@t M,
4, Less snowy is a bonnet OF black velvet. trimmed
match, and particularly graceful spray Of cut Jet
representing fern leaves. tf.,er =
A distt,,oue bronze felt bonnet, trimmed with
silk to match, and rose-colored feather is known
ss the Cary" The shape OF this is peculiar and
novel having as M Il were ere coronet back and front,
The "oanisss" os Y ,crv,u ,rr.u., @
= wserea rSSon acS
The ;.Petr is an entirely new style Of turban in
eees e and ons Streams HS rSb5a manner with 0ae
This house has not only the e. LScca" bonnet on.
dress; particularly dressy polonase OF the same
name; 'von Raden" mantle, one OF the newest
and most becoming wraps for Autumn; and we are
SBaroness" polonaise, use Souueauw in its way,
and the "LOuise Cary overskirt, which must be
seen to be appreciated, 1t having an entirely new
THE PoLoNAIsE STILL IN FAVOR.
There ts no danger, as anticipated, that the
p0lOnaise will be ren0unced this season, as has
been predicted by many; on the contrary, It has
become more popular than ever, and it would be
10Ss mah,n ndsed to renSpnce enc SO thor
mere caprice OF fashion. American ladies have
become su1iciently independents to decide what
styles they shall wear without depending upon the
The leading styles for the street are less oouoant
oWed SSan nq but any amount OF % Looping Is al
Rroach nearer the old-fashioned pelsse, OF the
most most graceful being known as the Louis Ky.
youse,u which has broad Vatican pait IN the
back and Is loose fitting
Garments In the Vatican style are especially in
mvoI A pretty little jacket Of this genre is known
q the "Paullne;'. the favorte poIonaise is the
,,rrinoess P @ vatican" which has also long LOUIS
Vests are q Jnlrev both for house and street
uost OF the basques are provided with independent
ones or have them simulated by the garnlture.
The "Coralie" Is IN the latter style and has novel
partition back The "Carlottao is simple. vet
stylish, and has the vest much shorter than the
sides. The "Donna" is double-breasted, and is
20 be worn with plain demi-tran skirt or with az,
Overskirt and train. rr rF llf--
known as the plated wrapper. This has the
eject OF the house waists, and may be worn belted
or not according to fancy.
The same style is repeated in q poIonaisc for
misses. The selections In misses and chidrens do.
ngns are almost innumerablc. The Jasmine po-
lonase 10 decidedly the prettest garment for
miss. IL closely resembles the Vienna pol0naise
for ladies'. The Empress mantle Is quite as much O