The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1872-08-04

The patient overloaded donkey laden with huge
baskets OF fruits and vegetables stands browsing
In the sun while his master seeks rep0se The CATS
are deserted and the drowsy attendants nod at you
In stupid wonder II you ask for glass OF dgrdz or
his will, and although the telegraph tells us that
ms dolngs In New York quite rival his most daz-
zilng achievements in Spain, you must come TO
Madrid TO know how merciless he can become. The
sky here knows no cloud; the distant Guadanama
Mountains, with their snow-wreathed SUBMITS,
blink at you, and the keen winds come rushing
down at times with wintry nerceness that
search You through and through until you
shver so the day passes on until the evening,
and the city pOurs into the PradO. Lovely Spanish
maldens with eyes that look meltngly upon you
and eyelashes that fringe faces tawny and olive,
and beauty that Is sometimes terrible, stroll In
groups, making the air merry with laughter and
speaking the language Of the fans, which for ones
soups peace, perhaps. Is riddle to stranger eyes
sturdy Valencan women carry nursing children to
the swings and the donkeys and the decorated chill
dren's cars, and gossip away while their unnOtced
burdens drain their ample and well exposed bosoms
OF the snstenance Of life. The sober, courteous
Spanish men-swarthy and grave and understood
saunter and exchange their innocent cOurteses
Now comes an ancient hidago. scOrning the French
follies OF raiment retaining his sombrero and
'' broad 0 si1k se1'"e sash Of orange or crm GRIM.
son or blue. Now and then comes
group Of ball.aghters, whose odd costumes
swaying rim; the hair long and twisted up into o
cue, Ike dimnutive Chinese pig-tail; closely-ht
tons and heavy braided front; tight panfaIoons and
gaudy scarns or sashes--these darlngs OF Madrid
are welcome on the Prado and receive q. kind Of
ovation from their fOOwers-an admring public.
SO up and down this wide, open place until after
there rs a group OF ever-changing form
and feature and color, love and laughter ana gal
lantry, that you win perhaps nowhere in the
world. 1t Is Spain in cabinet picture, all that
there is Of social life in Spain passing and repass
ing, holding high carnival under the shrinking
moon and the grateful stars, while you sit in silent
and thoughtful review and listen to the music OF
heir strangely meIOdiOus tongue fills the air.
and marvel upon the destiny of the antique and
llustrious race-Once masters OF two continents,
and now with none SO poor to do them reverence.
THE GARDEN OF Z" BUEN RETRO 1.-THE NIGHT OF
THE ATTEMPT.
At the edge OF the PradO Is an enclosed garden,
With gate on which blazes in gas jets, "Jardn del
Buen RetirO.n Tonight there is an immense thrOng
1t the gate, for 1t is one OF the two evenings in the
week when Sehor Dolman and his band Of q hun
ired performers give public concert This garden
was formerly an appanage of the Grown, and was
closed to the people. Hitler the Queen was wont
20 retreat from the cares of majesty. But when the
1ynasty fell 1t was opened to the people, We pay
TWO pesetas admissiOn-abOut forty cents in Ameri-
,an money-and push our way In. We find a park
With densely growing trees and pacard informsu us