Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1872-10-31
TIE WORLD OF STYLE.
FASHIONS FeR NOVEMBER.
Iettes- winter Cioaks Practical
IashlonS-

ne fashionable season NAV now be said 70
have begun IN real earnest. hotels are crowded,
houses, even those uulucky furnished ones,
which are forever Ito iet !" seem 20 have been
most Of them taken. florists and oontectioners
are hard At work, and ali the signs are indicA-
tive Of lively II not q brilliant winter cam
pSign.
society Is becoming a very costly luxury in
Sew York city, aud only those can participates
- - 20 any extent, uPou whom fortune has
Oosoiete, but grand RECEPTION" Involves a
cost Of about n thousand dollars sN,lus,ve o.
1iess anu Win al the apPurtenanoes OF wealth
AZ Command. NOu may have a .iaA of - -
'ett servants o. your own, hut thcy haze no
thttg 10 DO upon an occasion OF fhfs lf,l
except Put the house nm order. A. about j A.,
IN, the fashionable res AurateaT takes t,,.-,.s
>ior Of u-Carptjs The stcTs aud side saik over
which he spreads 81 awning. ard sets half a
zen 10 sdozen colored walters who through
tue summer nguTed A. Saratoga OF Long
BrCnCL,l - woTk az the table aud The door BE-. i
China, silver, and napkins, NJ needed aIp fg--
n'Seed " ith the quail. the oysters he h,Dst
turkey, the Sandwiches. the chicken saIaF trs
tpeTgues fruit anu lOweTs the OharUr .a h us-e
the Jelly, the macCITUCus and the ICE cream
The vie may lot &c supplied from flc above
source, hut IN addition, there are aiWavs s-ls
tables With tea, coffee, lemonade, cake. AMI
claTet punch. In this respect the rrcepttDn
does not differ iron the party proper. bar al.
widely Gifereut IN The manner .u which I. IT,
conducted There Is none OF the OIl-tasll1nar
stiffness, and formality OF the party, peorIs
come and go, Nklk about and chat. OccasiouaiIv
listen To music, AM sometimes 10 d soUs from
some society prima donna, but the staple OF .rr
entertainment j. conversation varied hv A
glimpse OF a stray literary hon OF artistic star
EYEElNG ToILErTBs.
The first enter taiuments OF the season Obtain
additional spleudOr from the freshness and
beauty OF the tOiettes, and this r. particularly
the case when. H. now, the cOlOrs are IN them
selves eNQulsitely lively and made % show BY
gasIght- Pale pink, pale blue, light peacock
green, and the faintCst shades of bun, are
the colors most In vogue, PrOtusely trimmed
with white point applique, kalencieHnes. OF
Irish lace. White point not much worn except
in collars, barbs, and cOiffures, by elderly
ladies. The long overskirt is quite out OF date
tor evening wear; the trained skirt has an apron
and panieT, side sashes, or broad sash Topped
low Oh the side, but no OyeT-skiTt, these are
reserved for walking dresses. The fayOrite
sleeves are the antique, with lace ruries, and
the close, coat sleeve, with an open cut, OF lace
TUIlies ~ the wrist. BOdices are cut SQUARE.
suTIhce, or Low, with bssqGes.
a new fix Tor evening wear, imported in al
the new evening shades, Il called by the rather
blind title, Satin ds ls0R. IL h very much like
what used 10 be called satin leOnantine. &c has
q the, dick, satin upper surface ami SILK under
surface. IL II softer, and not - glossy ~ Ordi-
nary satIn, but has a very rich appear ance.
Nothing can exceed the beauty oi tins fabric in
the new creamy bun, pearl-layender, light pea
cock blue and green tnts. Add the appropTia.,
trimmngsOf choice white lace, and the toilet h
perfect.
While muslin pleatiugs are s,ill used to some
ovtruTUssts, but they are only employed uuon
seooUcsTY toilets, and always suggest dress
made over or perhaps ircshcned ~. % answer
purpose laudsble idea cHOugh-but not Ia-
sirahle 20 those Who have plenty Of money, aud
waDt every costume 20 seem At least 10 have
come straight from tie hands OF the modisfp.
Sleeves and inside PlCatings o. muslin are sull
highly approved, but IOids aud Fabric are OF an
exquisite nueness, aud therefore almost a. costly
as lace, without it, desITabihty. There are a
class Of women, however. and their number i
FNaHNH nH.am IN Nh 81
anything. They purchase exactly what they
want. II II Is tive dollars per yard Il i all right;
II II l. ten n II all right FIrst-cisss houses have
only one price, aud the wealthy women OF fash
ION does not ever ak what tina -; she selects
what she wants Tor her purpose, without regard
20 its cost.
A really handsome evening dress cannot be
got up now Tor less than from SljO % $50, aud
may cost double these amounts. Below the
silken PaDier OyeTskiTts OF white damask gauze,
with frmged border and Melted heading, are
often gracefully drsped. the fringe twilled in,
80 a. 10 apparently form part OF the fabric, ami
the howeTed gRuze - arranged by the art of the
modesto as TO form a drapcried trimming for
body and sleeves. Trails OF flower garland these
dresses, and are massed Ina huge bouquets on the
sides, the flowers alone costing ss much as many
a farmers vile, whose husband has bonds and
money in the bank, pay : for her wardrobe during
lhe entire year.
We cannot go hack to the simplicities, the
arts. the industries: the money making faculty
OF man fOTbios il. IL a. at least well 20 spend
money on silks and laces as on champagne and
ast horses.
SECONDARY To1IErTKs.
But even rich women do not disdain having
ecOuTse 10 what are called secondary
oIlettos. They are very useful for small d. COW
erings' for " at homes" and for the opera. For
hough the aggregate EFFORT of ladies dress a.
The opera is very gay, even magnificent, on a
" nTst night" Yet regular kd5ItEs are very
careful Lot 10 display or conceal their freshest
and most elegant tOilettes in an opera box.
IL = the pretty silk Of Last season veled with a
fcke OF crepe or lace. RULED skirt under polo
nalse OF striped gsuze or grenadne, or the simple
striped or somewhat faded sllk, under an over
dress Of white embroidered muslin: an elab-
crate couture, delicate Kid gloves, laces. per
fumes, flowers, rich wrap half draped. and the
QaTlai eOncehment OF the seat or box, makes a
" secondary or house dinner toilette PASS mus
ter very creditablys IN TACT, IL is more in place
than q" tull'' dress with low neck and short
sleeves could possibly be under such circum-
stances.
Sleeveless jackets OF black. blue or chOoolsfe
coiOTed velvet are also very much seen over
tine striped and plain silks, for opera and house
dinner wear, the basque cut small and made
perfectly plain, only EDGED " tn double piplng,
the inner piping the COlOr OF the dress.
CLOAKs.
In our climate there i a necessity for a cloak
in addition TO the suit in cold weather and ms
season We have two or three different STYLES 20
choose from. The latest and most iashi0nsble
Is me "Dolman, a close-cut sack with long,
tie with cape. The third. the "POish coat a
long garment, body aud skirt cut i'm one in mont
square basque OaCk over the skirt. the hack
breadth OF which Is laid in a large box Meat
This coat Is always made in brown black IRON
gray or invisible green cloth border with fur
silver coney, black martin or grew astra chan
The ar set, consisting OF muff and bOa sh0uId
match the iur trimming of the coat. This oufhf
ls excellent for cold climate. In cities the
Holman If more generally worn and is made
IN four Oh nerent materia ls-cloth, velvet armure
cloth and black drap d'ete or cashmere. The
finest OF these are covered with embroidery and
often bordered with wide yak lace or fringe vak
Wooden lace Is only used for wooden msteriai.
SILK and velvet Dolmans are trimmed with rich
giupHfe, ehantilly or thread lace, and the en-
bToloeTy l. executed with the most remarkahIa
precision, beauty end neatness.
The sudden and universal adoption of en-
bfoloeTy TO all kinds OF ladies aud childreU's
clothing Is caused by the ease with which N has
been discovered, that very effective embroidery
can be executed by the sewing machine. In ali
the large establishments a steam-engiae il now
employed which runs the elevator, "a keeps
tive hundred or more sewing machines going AZ
the most rapid rates, embroidering is thus done
more or less well, at a cost which enables the
TO put IL on the d. We dollar Jackets
as well as on the two hundred dollar cloak, and
the most decided mark Of distinction, therefore,
about the embroidered garments Of the present