The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1872-10-04

| by 1t. The difference as yet between the
| spring aud the fall, Ia of material only, not oil
| form. 1t is the Polonalse In black cashmere,
| instead OF buff batlste, embroidered with silk,
instead OF linen, and trimmed with s'yak," In
stead OF linen lace. There is a slight variation,
however. There Is the choice between the
close-cut sack, With Immensely long aud Wide
sleeves, much longer and out of all proportion
| to the body. But who ever heard Of fashion
| paying any attention to proportion?
What Is called the 'latest" style, though Ii
| Is old enough, old as the hills, as the children
| say, is announced as a "talma with SASH" II
| is in reality a mantelet with simulated hood,
and long rounded ends, crossed In front, and
| tied at the back like a Marie Antoinetle fchu.
| It is made In black cashmere lined with black
| silk, and trimmed with broad black lace.
Yak, or woollen lace Ia one of the novelties.
It is made to initiate Irish point, and is very
| effective for trimming fine woollen suits and
| costumes. 1t Is o%btainable In black, and varl
Qua shades Of color, and costs from fifty cents
to two dollars and a half per yard, according
to width and ~lneness, the range averaging
| from one to six inches.
Camels hair or Arabian cloths as 1t Is indlf-
| ferently called, Is the most stylish material Ior
! full street costumes. 1t Is very wide, out
makes an expensive toilette at six dollars per
| yard, when the making and the cost OF the
lace Is Included. 1t must be said, however,
that yak lace. wide and malcnins nln color'
| trims It exactly.
Rack silk suits have been rather run Into
| the ground, and their place ls taken by those
| who can afford them, with suits OF dark rich
plum-colored silk, sage green, chocolate, au-
tumnal leaf. or bronze brown. These hand
some suits are made up with abundance OF
kilt pleating, velvet somewhat darker, and
fringe with netted beading, precisely the same
shade. Lighter browns, grays, cafe al fatts
peacock, aud leaf tints, are made with deml-
lraine, and trimmed with rich fringe or black
thread lace for carriage dresses. Black MORE
and fringe. or black velvet and lace, are the
fashionable trimmings tor black silk. Ladies'
cloth for fall travelling suits Is trimmed Win
silk (%gros.graln) Of the same shade, or q shade
darker than the material. The most wasteful
and therefore the most fashionable design for
carriage dresses Is q deml.trained skirt, ruined
to the top at the back, apron front carried TO
the back, and the new talma With sash for the
shoulders.
Some very elegant dinner dresses are made
without oversklrCs, the back breadths being
laid over In single folds, which are carried up
to the line of the shoulder, and give the effect
ola Vatican plait. Sometimes the sleeves
are formed of this side pleating. but this
method is ungraceful and nnbecomlng; the
coat sleeves which have reappeared, and
which are rendered antique by the addition. of
two pufs, n at the top and one near the
elbow, are much better.
The cloth cloaks, such as have appeared,
are made In the sack cape style. A few very
handsome ones In dark cloth have been re-
celved, richly embroidered, with silk slightly
lntermtxed with Jet, aud bordered deeply With
a fringe of black marteu fur, once known as
Alaska sable. The Dolmar will also be q favor
lite style, but will be more employed for ope-
ro nlooH o ond NQrrtQ OQ wrQna Than for atraet
wear, its large loose sleeves, and stylish but
somewhat negllgee appearance adapting It to
these purposes.
Jackets in cloth and cashmere, embroidered
In black or shades Of color, reappear In profus-
lon. They can be purchased ready-made, or
marked out 10 be made at home.
coLoRs AND SHADES.
The great art of the costumer at the present
time Is to blend shades In such q way as TO
form o perfect harmony OF color. Much con-
fusIon Is created by the announcement every
few weeks of a "new" color, when there can
really be no such thing, and the so-called new
color Is nothing more than the revival Of an
old one, or q new shade OF color already IN
existence.
.tParis In sshes," for example, Is simply the
darkest shGde of gray, formerly known rs
s'lron'' gray, and resembles Invisible green so
closely that they are often mistaken one for
lu0 OtllCks III LhO u SEsA
there ls a shade which In one Ia green and the
other red. This marks the difference, but
with o subtlety which 1t Is difficult to detect,
except by putting the two tints together.
The silks ofthe season e4niolt nearly every
variation of every shade, Of every color, and
gloves are made to match. In plain colored'
silks Of rich quality we have counted thirty
six shades Of wood color alone. and matched
each one perfectly with gloves.
Green commences at the pa!e5t water"
tint (eau de nll,) and goes down through
twenty-five distinctly different shades to the
dark 'invisible."
In gray there are at present to be had about
fifteen different shades, beginning at light ash
ashes" "'"
Drab commences at light stone color, and
goes through to dark fawn, taking 10 about
eighteen shades.
Brown begins at q light stan" and goes
down to chocolate, ending In the still darker
but not 80 rich and deep u tint, the walnut. !,
Rose color starts at the palest flesh tint, and
goes through five shades Of flesh to ~"olush,"
Blossom and ~''rose," and then through q
new series TO maroon, embodying not less
than twenty-five different shades under its
slDgie head.
The iIehtest shades In evening colors Is
milky white, expressed exactly by the term
watered milk, as 10 1t there Is precisely that
lndescrlbable shadow OF water green, which
city people at least always SEE In milk.
Next to this Is pearl color, which goes
through about fifteen shades to full lavender.
When lavender ends the pale English violet
begins, and goes through TO lilac; from lilac
through another series to the dark purple vlo.
let, M from 7lolet down the descending scale
again to plum colors.
Yellow shows about fifteen different shades,
beginning In the taintest straw color and end
In the rlpened corn color.
The number of shades mentioned does not
include all that are made from the different
colors, but simply those that comprise the
recent iInportations, and for which gloves can
be procured to match. Neither can we find
nor space to psrtlcularlze the shades,
whose subtIetles are as charming as the study
is Interesting. Women might be forgiven for
giving their time and attention with dress, II
they studied It from the esthetic point OF View,
for the gradations In color are like regular
octsves In music, and If women could lind
their loves In music, aud the correspondences
TO them In color and tint, wonderfully beauti-
full tollettes might be wrought out, harmonizIng
not only with the physique, but the deeper in
terror nature of the woman.
FALL Hat AND 30NNET
are unchanged In shape, and In the skelerou
are as ugly as possible. All the grace is given
to them by the m%illiner, and, If she is destl-
tute of that necessary gift, her clients suffer.
The round crowns, with straight narrow
brIms, are the popular style, the crown soft
and composed Of silk or terry velvet; the
brlm, which is Variously turned up at the side,
- E4nn1 49, mi nE