Herald and tribune. [volume] (Jonesborough, Tenn.) 1869-current, 1871-03-16
Budding Peach Trees.

I was first instructed in the old plan
known as the 7 cut, a slow and difficult
operation to perform. Many of the buds
die from the bark being bruised in getting
up the corners to insert the buds, and the
drying of the bark causes the bud to die.
Near forty years since I budded over two
thousand trees in that way, and more than
half died. In finishing the last two rows 1
was tired aad commenced sighting nv
work, as I thought, but the result proved
agreat SUCCESS making a discovery l nev-
or would have found out. Any intelli-
gent person can learn in ten minutes. If
a few evenings were devoted to such in
structions in our district schools through
out the State, at the proper season of the
year, the young men and boys could in
struct others, and in a few years we would
nave but few inferior trees in the whole
State.
Your correspondent, T. NJ. Woodall,
wishes some of your numerous readers to
give the following information. The cause
Of failure in budded peach trees when the
common seeding may be found in full
bearing. Some of the causes are First,
the large and finer peach has but few
blooms. In passing such a tree in bloom
it would hardly be noticed, while the seed
ling may be seen a mile, with five times as
many blooms as the finer or budded tree.
The time for budding is August and Sep
TENDER. The new growth of the limb Is
then sufficiently matured to bud. That
portion of the limb that bloomed the pre-
vious spring will never bloom again. The
new growth of last summer will bloom the
following spring. The sod should be drill
ed, three an a half feet in the row. one
foot in the drill. The bottom limbs should
be trimmed off close, when two months
old. By about the middle of August they
will be about three feet high. Cut the
slips from the best fruit, placing the cnt
ends in water. Have beeswax, cut thin
and made warm by the sun or 9th
erwise /; a sharp knife of medium size, and
a ball of wooden thread, The bud should
be above ground. Place the knife imme-
diately above a leaf, cutting square across
the tree down to the wood, then turf the
knife back down, cut up to the first cut,
removing the leaf; then cut the bud in
the same way, cutting close above the bud
and turn the knife as before, making the
bud about three Fights ofan inch in length
dip it in water, placing the bud on the
first cut. making a close fit at the top,
which is easy done, as it makes but little
difference about the lower or thin end of
the bud then put the wax closely around
the wood, SO as TO exclude the air, letting
the wax extend above the top of the bud
then o few rounds of thread to hold all
the parts together. If the bud should die
it will dry up. and another should be in
serted as above.
In the spring when the buds begin to
swell, cut off the whole to about two inch
es abovc the bud inserted keep all sprouts
of, and by the next fall the bud will have
made a tree as large as if it had not been
cut.
Ny reason for inserting the bud where a
leaf had grown is, that | noticed when pru-
ming my trees the sprouts would be thrown
out at the edge of the wound. and grow
three feet in one year, when the growth
in the other limbs would be but a few
inches. The sap that flows 60 support the
leaf will give immediate nourishment.-
NaShrlNe Union.