Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-09-30

The skiIt and pOlonaisc arranged 70 form an
| elaborate suit was devised for those who hav,
dresses especially adapted for every OCCASION
/ wrappCrs whtn they rise in the morning. IN.
| pretty de unframed skirt and small basque fol
| bou>ew wear, the more cere muniouS dinner dress
and the elaborate evening toilette neither ol
which would be thought OF for an instant fol
waking, shopping or calling purposes, tbs
usss 10 which the skirt and pOonaise in it, inf.
mite variety Is devoted.
/ The masses of women. however. DO not have
| new dresses every season, Cmhodying all the
| changes which dress makers and fashion mon
g'rs have 10 invent TO satisfy their clients. The
| majority have perhaps two new dresses, many
/ not more than that in the course Of the wear.
and they require that these should mn all the dir
ierent requirements of their social life. They
/ inquire anNiously and aSSiduously about tn,
fashion, and they get for an answer the skirt
| and polonaise. That "polonaiSc" becomes their
tete HoiT; they cannot sleep Tor thinking of it
until by some means or other they become pos
sefsed Of pattern. Then they set % work cut
| mp the material, make a nondeScrpt thing
| which is "neither beast nor human" and wear
| II, feellng dimly conscious that a. an eNperi-
| ment IN fashion IL is a failure, and that they
have nothing that they wanted 20 make up Cor IT,
DElUsIoN AND A SNARE.
What am coming 10 Is this. that the paniers
and punching up fthe polonaise and OyerSkirts
L - a deluslon and a snaTe-the simple result of
the loss TO Paris OF the last eighteen months
Ihey take US back to the folly of two years ago,
/ 10 the last kick of the great donkey OF the En-
Il IRE, worth, TO his yulgarity and conceit. The
l panier was fitting legacy from him 10 the
l women whom ne dressed, and n ought 20 have
/ been the only one they would ever require of
| him. All the costumes, all the models which
| have been received from Paris repeat the Old
| styles, and our obedient copyists discard more
/ recent ideas and lamely go 20 work 10 multiply
| them as the latest Partisan fashions. Fashion,
/ why poor Paris has at present no more fashion
and no more authority for issuing fashions than
Peoria has, and IL Is from a crowd of poor half
starved shop keepers that we get these traditions
| in lien Of ideas.
| When fashion does return to Paris she will don
L different ,s,rh4 H., a.,
| ample OF sense in the simplicity which il will
e likely to inaugurate. Having no longer the
impress to pay homage to the fashion, CORES
- grave 10 austerity in her dress and obese. Let
| slavish cOryists and women who have gone mad
over Paris fashions read the following paragraph
from the recent letter Oh a noted French fashion
| writer:
Never have there been seen, even in the
| most degraded epochs of the history OF France
fashions and modes of life more devoid OF refine
/ ment more devoted to gross pleasures. more re-
gardless OF honor, more carelcss Of scandal
more Inbred, in a word-than under the second
Empire, which has just closed. Nameless men.
adventurous from all countries, enriched by un-
scrupulous speculatiOns, with the aid Of few
French men and women Of doubtful characters
have set the fashions in France for the last If
teen or eighteen years"
THE INDICATIONS OF THE FUTURE
The most distinguished women make their
own fashions, and generally leone noted
almost exclusively, as the color OF their hair,
or the expression of their eyes Instead OF
adapting themselves to the prevailing fashion,
they adapt the prevailing fashion 10 themselves,
and the result is that fitness OF clothing to the
wearer, which strikes every one with admira-
ton.
The most elegant women OF society have dis
carded paniers, and refuse TO bunch up costly
velvet and thick gTOs grciR into dolly Var
dens." We may hope therefore TO see, before
the winter Closes, and even before il IL far ad-
vanced. the huge punches at the back entirely
got rid OF; the demi-trained skirts of rich ma
terial made perfectly plain, the distinctive folds
and creases taken out Of the polOnsise of velvet
and wool, and the garment allowed 10 descend
naturally upon the graceful skirt.
The "girl of the PERIOD has passed into
caricature. II is sincerely hoped that She Will
shortly pass into history, with all her humps, her
bends" and her delormties, and be seen no
mole.
OUTSIDE GARMENTS.
Shawls are seen a little during the inferno
diate season before thin suits have given place
10 warmer ones, but they have not a. vet recOv-
cred any of that prestige which distinguished
them before suits became the universal wear.
The question now with many ladies is, what
shall We do for a dress cloak? No suit can be
made warm enough for the rigors of this climate
AT the North; and unless one afford the
magnifcence of an independent black velvet
polonaise, with its quilted silk lining and rich
trimming, there has been nothing but a water
proof or a blanket shawl between women and
freezing. This winter, it seems probable, this
great want will be supplied. Several models OF
winter pellsse lntricot and broadcloth
have been exhibited, which seem to
combine all the requisites, and ought
TO. win attention and favor; The pattern
is cut long, and fits closely to define the figure,
although loose enough 10 be put on with COM
tort, over a dress. Ii may be double, OF single
breasted, and made with or without one or more
pelerine capes. The capes are not lined; they
are cut Of single cloth, the prettiest pinked out
upon the edge. For slender persons one seam
and large pleat at the back, in the skirt, are
sufficient, but Tor stouter, and more matrOnly
adies, side single pleats, which give three scans
at the back, will be found more becoming TO the
figure. A PeliSse OF cypress green cloth,
worn over a single dress skirt, with am all black
hat of velvet and feathers, is As handsome and
ladylike costume, as any woman need want.
Waterproof cloaks are now made almost uni-
foImly as long sacQues, closed down the front.
with sleeves and large talma capes. They are
by far the most comfortable and useful style, as
they allow the free use Of the arms, and are az
The same time perfectly protective. More drcssy
and as useful wraps are made in the same Way
OF Scotch wool, checked in two cOlOrs-black
and white, purple and white, scarlet and white.
and the like. These latter are particularly
pretty worn over grey travelling dresses.
Opera clOaks are richly embroidered this sea-
son, in black or colors upon white, in white upon
scarlet, in gold or white upon black. Opera
dressing is becoming as elaborate il was be-
'ore the war, although 'full' dress, that j., bare
necks, are, thanks 10 an innate sense OF propri-
sty in the natural unpervertcd American
woman, rarely seen.
Mink has found successful rival i'm black
American martin, or what is sometimes denom-
stupid attempt TO pass il of FOR what il was not,
t has gradually won its way by virtue of its
beauty and merit alone, until il now occupies a
high place in popular regard. IL is a beautiful
trimming fur, and il il was costly would be
as handsome as mink, If not handsome but as
yet il is only about half the price. very fine
-et Of black martin (muh and boa) can be OBJ
tanned for from thirty to fly dollars while a
corresponding set OF mink would cost seventy
i've to a hundred dollars.
The long fat boa has quite taken the place Of
The collar, and, together with the muff, which
has not changed its size or general appearance,
comprises the fashionable sets of the season.
Seal-skin sets are very much admired, and are
indeed exquisite in color and style. They can
be bought, lined with satin and richly mounted,
for thirty dollars. novelty in seal skin Jackets
is made with revers cut ION the back and sides,
and bordered with some other fur, grebe or
black martin. The fancy, however, is not good
style or good taste; it simply yulgarises a dis
tinctiye and formerly distinguished garment.
Ermine, the loveiiest Of all fur, IL quite re-
covering Its former prestige. Its TO be much
used for ceremonious visiting, and evening pur-
poses. 1t is very reasonable in price, hand
some set costing only thirty to forty dollars.
For eighty dollars. or less, therefore, lady can
provide herself sufficiently with furs-a set Of
black martin and set Of ermine-afording
guarantee against ell contingencies. Capes and
cuffs of fur are as though they never had been.
Astracan, trimmed with sealskin, constitute very
nreffv md chaan fhouch less pern aDQut