The New York herald., 1871-11-13
PARIS FASHIONS.
A Glance at the Gay Capital as It
ID 4 Appears To-Day. l
Princes In Disguis, and Princes Without Dis
suise-Ths japanese Ambasadcrs-A East
tsrn Fashion-Ths Latest in Hats-Ths
calabrais and tbs Beret-Ths Costume
Of an ex-Queen-shades and Shapes
Of Present Toilets Diamonds
.s and How They Arc
Worn at Present

Worn at Present
,.. PARIS, Oct. II, lsT1.
II cannot be denied that the aspect OF Paris Ii
more convlval now than It was az no very distant
period. when two gentlemen meeting on the Boule-
wards ielt they had right to let much as their
shadows ielgthen out In the sun on the dreary
blanc he'd pavement That was under the Gem
mune, when the shadow of sociability was o crime
tnat brouGht two purties shaking hands with gloves
on under the suspicious watch OF Pipe-en-BOs, who
hated people In gloves. 1t was naturally the very
worst season glove makers can remember; but they
are cneery again and are sewing buttons on the
best kid up as far as the elbow. large number Of
these ndustrieis-as they are called, and 20
deserve their name declare, on the other
hand ION the two hands I meInD, that
ladies hate buttons and mean this winter
to dispenss with the nuisance entirely shall not
be astOnisned II they do. though the month Of
January witn0uI buttons does not appear an appro-
priato season for radical change; but for all that
docskin will be brought up to the middle OF One's
arm. In loose way, and gam IN length what it
loses IN Duttonholes. 10 return to
THE ASPECT or PARIS.
It II stln little provincial. The first performance
et the opera, which took place on Saturday last,
presented unto the observation OF the initiated Q
wel-to-do but countriaeG audience. People swear
declare that Paris Paris again. 1t cannot be,
with so little OF 0ut iGts here, and 30 much OF tOs
La.o, rnau. The beauties are the wives OF pro-
vmcai lawyers, notaires, the maglssracy and bank
ers from Bordeaux, Amlens and other cities, out
they are deficient In training compared with the
Parislenne OF high lie. These remarks strike all
10reig lcrs, for we have mad foreigners TO make
marks and buy Paris goods. We have them still In
swsrns visiting the ruins also.
~ t THE JAPANESE AMBASSADOR "a Fl
makes himself conspicuous with tissue paper POCKET
handkercniers. Each time he has to blow his nose
rtthe change Of climate mas brought on |. cold ne
pulls forth small square OF the finest silver tissue,
marked all over with cabaiisuc signs, wnich one
would think would make ms cold worse. When ne
has used 1t he throws 1t away, and as the ganta
dc PARIS II imaginative he Ia possessed with
the notion that these pocket handkcrchiefs are
bank notes. The consequence h the unfor-
runa.e sufferer cannot walk abroad without
being followed by Q iran Of urchins pitcnln2
and tossing over each other for the delicate squares
~ tney fall. On occasion the Amoassador, nav
Ing Oniy sneexed, put the supposed bank note back
In Ills pocket when gIrocns benind cried out that
Hls "a ceiienCy WuSn't lalr.O he certainly u nOt
nese Is Kaon IN "Fieur de rDe." We nave had
q 8eNn fRlNCkS IN DISGUISE rft
by tine dozen, aud real Drinces without any disguise
wax tne OPEN streets daily. The Duke VI Aumale
mas Ju.t purchased tne palace wnicn once belonged
70 ~. Fouid, on the Faubourg SI HOn0re, 12y, ana
he has paid l,40v, ,0uJlrancs lOr IL ,@4eIag. ,H
The ,sueen Vi opaiu has returned to her palace,
near the arc de 1riompne; she was weighed by tne
stativu master Of DeanWie before leiG varis,
anu III not URe 0unee, mere or less lwitlOuL her
srswn on n 1s - pannas aa aae dsss ss ND Nd On
WIN NOT be beca .se TN Se VINO should nave tins dea
0ld MOI nave H. and y y 1ong over TO the HERALD.
IL was satin dc ialie, IN tue new hyacinth shade,
rlcniy riinea Win yeiyet ol darker hue and
Ran nm Wtf "A haA
1he buckingham cape 70 II WAS trimmed Ia the
sane inanner, aud tue bonnet was charlotte Cor.
pui,s on one sue. 49, n ~s .Ef
IL nlAy DC inquired
az sxAr ~ gaE CHARLorfs ooRDAY HAT
or b0nnetY IL ~ the peiy last invented; u taunty
berst caul, with VISOR in 'front.' Inc visor q
covered with plated lace. genera!y wLile Brussels
cni1noiI, las ricn lace drapery or real ius aud
rcal ace, lnen single rose hanging suspended not
nowers has not been attained or surpassed yes ~
any nower makor. The Maima'son aud the Gloire
de Dion roses are prelerred
M rnE CALABRAIs HAT
and the Oeret are Che other Two which must be de.
scrioed. as tney prevail the new winter styles.
The IUrer Is bottle green, gray or brown felt with
pointed crown ana bri.a turned up on one side. 1t
Ii eicner trimmed with corresponding crosscuis Of
veivel or twisted tOrsade, and the leather wnIcn
rises from the crown Is straight and stln.
TIE BEIET
Is caul OF velvet Somewhat soft In the crown. Ii
has narrow Drim on tine sides and back and Oil
tne trlnllng comes from the top. anu II cnus with
long streamers behind made Of iAille ribbon.
plume curis over another Doth brought forward
from tue Top OF the chlgnon. Inc Lanbalie and
Du Barry still MAINTAIN their reDaUc and favor.
Small tuile rucnes are worn above the forehead,
with al rose lainballes, which nave the brn
turDed back In lront, aud . lower Is often seen
peepng out Dove the Lett ear. Bue-green ve,vet
having 0rlms lined with rose saun and rose Innings
TO velvet striAgs, appear 20 De IN great demand.
Bronze velvet, scaDlons aud "Maryla are the
snud or spanish tobacco. ts
OF color. These are called "camalcu;n thus, three
different ''Maiylands'' narnonize very well; three
ieads me to Me. Schneider, the "GranIe Du.
chesse,n who wears very rich costume oil myrtle
faille and crepe de chime mixed. the unuer petit
coat Ii trained and has l0unce IL is made OF the
darkest shade Of green and Ia fallc. AN0ve this
wide 1ounce are three frs OF lighter shade, each
edged with Venetian point The tunic over this
petllcoat made Of longitudinal widtn or the rem
derest my rte green, and between each an insertion
TSe oodce - 81 eas S
est aile with the lighest shade OF all Tor sleeves
The nat to this beret OF two shades with plumes
large emerald earrings with TINS toilet and profu.
siOn OF diamonds around the setting.
THE LAST FASHION FOR DIAMONDS
Is to have them mounted In single row, which is
loosely hung ON the arm, 80 loosely that at every
but grand duchesses know how to Keep them On and
how TO keep them sliding, up and down, from elbow
what acroSatc eas q
thus mounted are made to perform on mix white
arms, which must hide q tgnt cord somewhere.
Now and then one fancies they are all rolling dew
drops lily ground, with y tiny rainbow IN each;
at other times the bR stones look ike stars shoosng
over the galaxy. Gems are also mounted for ear
rings ana brooch to o0k ike = revolving Oatharine
wheel. Japan enamei still the Juror, the admired
patterns being immature cneesepates for Droocnes
and sauCers for earrings. lbe workmanship Ii so
correct and beautiful thai the designs can be studied
with magnifying glass; each particle Delng perfect
In color.
The most approved shape VI tunic Is very hiQh ON
the htps and the most dressy have petal borders
bound round with satin. Amethyst saun on the
new material called ''oicenne,' OF violet shade
makes q most becoming and rich toilet. Sicilienno
ls very expensive kind OF silk popn, and It's rival
Ia silk reps These are the only Two materials OF
1871 In The Lyons fabrics. The other now material
ls Indian cashmere in the piece. IL mas nothing in
common with merinO or scotch cashmeres. 1t IL
very woe, and Is covered with the Indian designs
very small. but all glowing. IL is made mostly In
DettcOats and without any other trimming than
quilted velvet corresponding with the velvet tunlc