The New York herald., 1871-09-03
PARIS FASHIONS.
The Taste for Rustic Styles In Drcss-So,ns New
Costumes-"Cloud Lining"-A Revival in
Chignons- Fashionable Accessories.
PARrs. August II. 1871.


are supposed to- have given up that love for attire
which was ever OF their Iraities and Is alurking
temptation STILL
Like all other weaknesses, love OF dress breaks
Out unconsctously small occasions. On great
Ones such as gala cte for the orphans OF the army
mass for the wounded, or a performance for seme
other Official distress, pubic charity shows itself
in eiegances which, however democratic. ana be-
cause they are democratic cost not one Genuine less
than the mourned aristocratc.
In private life taste and the fne arts ooze ont of
the plalnest printed muslins, alpacas ana liamas.
the cheapest printed tarlarans and piques. These
unpretending materials are made up with such an
evident endeavOr to look nice without expense,
in tunics which truly are very long and full behind.
but so scan in 'front.' and bodices OF silk with nice
basques, but not bit Of silk sleeve that signi-
cant desire to captivate, even sleeveless and only
an apron on in front, deserves to meet with some
indulgence.
Husbands who nave their i0ibles, too, are willing
to attribute the falling of OF good deal OF black 10
Kind intention on the part of their wives to
obiterate from the nations MIND the fact that Prus
SLAMS are still drinking up its best champagne and
carrying It's millions away as regularly as clock
work. Some say they are running away with the
clocks themselves but that has only been proved in
Germany, not in France, where it is in the natdre OF
clocks not to go regularly. En- SOna'ne, be II a
patriotic feeling or not which prompts French
women to appear more fascinating than ever, they
have made a successful venture. Thus In these
dogdaYs of repubcanism, unbleached lawn and
simple linen cloth lin the gray mouse shades) and
clear muslins pineapple cOl0D have transformed
the defunct beau monde into fascinating Jeannie
Deans and Dolly yardens The favorlte style for
picnics. the seaside and watering places is
to appear cOuntrihcd and 1t must be
head and
buncned up cretonnes, just plated round with
muslin borders, headed by black velvet stripes, Of
fectually produce this pastoral effect. Still. how
plain Politicians grumble about the i,fTe dsS
,emn'es, however, ana perseyere in stopping at ver
sailles, not perceiving that they running COM
mcrce and driving manufactures out OF their cap-
tai. When ladies begin to go about without over
sleeves and to wear bOdlces, not only open, heart.
shaped in 'front.' but also open neart-shaped In the
back, for the sake of saving material, am told tue
least peoples parliament can do Is to come and
look at changes cOoliy.
In the absence of politicians no one here blames
countesses and their daughters who are met carry
ing their own fruit ana flowers home from the mar.
ket They do it SO naturally. Twice a week they
seen by swarms al the Madeleine STALLS attlred
in striped pettlcoats, in hats which have no Drms
In 'front.' highheele shoes and no other nery about
them but piece OF black velvet around their
tlir0ats and the new grants de s0re, with.
out buttons. The only unkind thing said
Of this intelligent imitation OF dairy girls attire is
that 1t Is Dremeditatcu rusticity-a clever way Of
throwing dust into other peoples eyes. Let sup
pose this to be true; sill dust from Vatican does
not So painfully blind as dust ana tlnsel from a
Traviata. The bunch Of hedge flowers on the
top or high, Gat-crowned hats is more winning
under those yellow foulard umbrellas now used to
keep the sun on than the Spanish lady's mantIlla
which keeps nothing or at al. ! admit that the
sylvan style is not novel; but Vrgs ecloques are
There is not much OF this idyl IN the real life Of
republicans at Versailles lhe famous orangerie
who turned out every day for u walk under
groves Of those perfumed blossoms SO dear to
| fumcd spot. Moreover, these Bohemian generals.
artists, lawgivcrs and statesmen, can be seen from
ias any JqP 2t rRas famed asSensa % steps Ehfh
the orangere. but the view is no less picturesque.
| One OF the most amusing sights from Versailles ia
that OF the trains which carry politicians and their
There are different cars for mid republicans rad.
Gals and reactonaries Before these separations eX.
greDadlne paitings would start politics with radical
printad jaconets, ,curled chignons were attacked
by plain plated halr down the back. and
the alarm OF guards kept them continually on the
, look In | have been assured that these up and
down trains between the capital and tile Assembly
have witnessed worse engagements than those Of
the artillery at BOrny. the culrassiers at Rezonvlle
and grenadicrs at Gravelotte. one gentleman, VINO
is blessed with nuvial beard and wears il a la
prophet. mad large piece OF his principal adorn.
High life is also afflicted by members OF the Geo.
graphical Societies. II appears no one knows where
places are-what Is French territory. what is Ger.
scientific heads In way which promotes the posi-
tion or wigmakers In society:
fuites Will mention few specimen toilets seen at
the Cirque des Champs Elysees, where grand res-
tva has been held for the benefit numerous VIC
! TINS. 1t was a matinee and the sun poured in
through stained windows, tlntng very crowded
| audience with the shades OF the RAINBOW Never
! especially as they were rich III clever combinations
| blue gros grain, with silver moon ray ON IT.. The
bodice was square and. like the sleeve, IL la CiefHe
| tight to the elbow and founce, trimmed with a
| rich black velvet bow. The tnnic was looped with
| bows OF the same; the under petcOat was black
/ frlled pouIt. Tnc hat. OF the blue. wasa Vatican,
with rose on one side OF three shades. The lingerie
was WHITE lace run on the bare arm. encircled NY
| wide gold bracelet, ana face fall half concealed a
| mund locket, hung on velvet, glitered on the
| bosom. This costume is called CLOUD llning.'
A second elegant aress was lavender train robe,
| with fOunces on the cross up to The knees headed
| by frayed-Out leather ruche; over This came q
| ana worked muslin. The sleeves coTesponded with
| the tunic, coat shape Under a high bOce OF the
same scarlet low bodice. without short sleeves,
and OH the waist behind scarlet bows 10 correspond.
| with frayed-out ends. The hat was reduction of
the Oolonne vendomc, shorr pillar. without rims,
and a bunch OF poppies, with lavender all round
third toilet was white poult, with deep plated
founce for undcrpeticcai, headed by very elabo-
! a crepe de chine tunic frnged with silk. The
| bodice was made with basques to correspond with
the pettcOat, and open in 'front.' and behind In the
! shape OF gentlemen's vests round the opening q
wreath of the embroidery, and fringe TO match that
on the tunlc. No shoft sleeves, but long crepe sse
| ones sewn IN the underbodtce winch covered the
back and bosom. On the wrist Of these transparent
| sleeves the same trimming. work aud fringe and
plss6 frllls as on the other portions OF the toilet
white rice straw hat with very pale roses and light
| black lace. Jewery PLAIN gold and pearls.
Ladies nope that The new ruling fashion OF OPEN
backed bodlces VIII fall before winter; but as 1t is
| an economy, mlincrs suggest 1t should last, with
some rich satin or velvet sash underneath TO pre-.
| serve one from catching a draugbt between ones
shoulders Where the economy lies cannot be seen
, under these circumstances, because 1t Is behind
one.
The full dress OF all, without st,ngness, is the
! ROOM solitaire, maze garnet, bronze, indigo fawn.
vanilla, cerise. scabious and rcscda silk under petit
coat, with rich nounce all round, and q crepe dc
chine scarf or .unic above II, which Is either
| frlnged, IL for walking or visiting. or trimmed
/