The New York herald., 1871-10-23
THE + A S HIO NJ s .
The Season Fairly 0pened-The Very La.es,
styles-Bonpets and Costumes-common
Sense and Good Taste in ------
man the Ascendant M7rfff

s.openingsn OF new designs and goods. like sensa-
zion story, "to be continued In our next" and the
unwillingness to pass judgment or to come TO any
determination in reference 10 them as long as there
y any prospect OF any more ''expostions." Tor fear
thai something novel or attractive may be OF.
fered after tine momentous decision has been ar
nved at Many OF the modistcs, Nine. Demorest
among the number, have had several openings this
season. On each occasion the emporium OF this
well known advocate and originator OF American
fashions has been thronged with visitors, and the
verdict upon the novelties there exhibited has been
universally favorable. Each pattern In this estab-
Ashment IL now placed In . neat envelope, on the
face Of which lie printed large illustration OF the
enclosed pattern as 1t rs to appear when made up.
together with full directions FOR putting 1t toRether
ladies, therefore, need not depend on their memo
for the design, but may always have the 'coun-
serfeit presentmentp before them.
Among the rav0rite and most distingue designs Of
the season the almost innumcrable styles OF tho
polonaise which has become an established insttu-
nOn. These seem especially adapted TO ths sofA
oaressante materials OF the season. and person
with the mos, fass.iious taste cannot fall 20 nnd
something TO please IT. For the tall, graceful
Dame or the demoiselle, who can carry on any
tning with an AIR Of distinction, is the "MCusque-
sare." snort in 'front.' like . basque, afrording an
opportunity for the display OF elaborate garniture
fd0iitr, but very long in she back with jaunty
little basque, and the skirt looped IN manner that
only artiste's brain could originate or an
aIilste's fingers arrange. Then the "Leonl" with
It's long Louis XVI. vest, the back so simple and
graceful, equally stylish whether worn exceedingly
1ou0ant, or comparatively plain. For those who
Anect the particularly 0ouDant style, are those
known the "Griselda" and the "Delphine,n
and charming compromise is effected
IN The Agatha" This latter is particularly
admired for The ingenious and graceful manner "a
which the fronts are arranged to support the loop.
hgs, and impart the plain appearance At the sides
which IL the distinguishing feature of all the new
designs in poIonaise and overskirts
Overskirts, by the way stlll retain their own
spite OF all opposition and prophecies TO the con-
trary The ample drapery which has been their dis
nnguishng feature for the past season Is TOO gen.
orally becoming to be renounced without struggle
The present fancy seems to be for those quite snort
In front the apron being more In favor than the
open fronts but very long in the back, be looped
70 the desired length Many are so arranged as to
be utilized for q train In the house and overskirt
when a short costume Is desired. OF this economi.
cal arrangement there various designs, the gen.
eral favorite being one known IS the "Nonparen,n
and 1t is well worthy OF its name. st ~ teh
Very wide aprons are also q distinctive point In
many Of the newest designs. The Equalizer is Of
shis style, the wide apron supplemented by very
nde gore, with deep plaits at the bottom and very
Do,lFdm back. Also the "Ednetta," which many
Justly lay claim 10 being called the favorite OF the
season. style especially III favor with those who
are surfeited with DO not admire the ample
drapery is know the 'Car0lyn," " and another, the
"Hespera" somewhat resembles the "Arabn Of last
season. but dispenses with the unsisntly surplus OF
material " nicn dlsngured that design Wel
The oversKir:s are almost universally accompa.
rtnd hv cfplta vvhi hovo n
tent superseded the plsin round waists. The prln-
capal exception is in favor OF the "plaited bouse,n
90 fashionably worn during the summer, which Is
reproduced in cashmere, opera flannel and alpaca,
the plai,s elaborately trimmed with braiding or
outlined with folds Of silk or velvet These
waists have necessitated the revivai OF broad sash
ribbons which now exceedingly fashionable for
house wear.
Among the multiplicity OF stylish basques 1t would
be hazardous to designate any particular the
tayorte. This one is especially designed Tor ladies'
incliDfDg toward ena6onpoint; another is adapted
70 q slender figure: the next design Is Tor a tail
matron, and sti another Tor the petite de1n0lsele.
snd jet EACH IN its way is dLsfa0ue and graceful.
The plated position basque is not SO much IN |
vogue the nat cut in various unique shapes,
aud he length Is altogether matter Of TASTE the
present fancy although not decided, being rather |
In favor OF the longer ones
simulated, the Cora" and the Justine being In
tn,s style. otner favortes are known Us the
Numerous launty little jackets are for lndepend-
ent use, with suits for cool mornlngs, made in coeh
or cashmere, heavily braided and embro dered.
The "Marquise mante.n sort OF sacque, with a
deep cape is much in favor for the same purposes.
Later in the season. undoubtedly, the "Princesse
peiisse,'' especially lntended Ior cloth. and the
.Herm oson casaque" for velvet, will be the ieading
designs.
Tne former is somewhat in the style OF the old
time pelisse Will look prettly trimmed with fur |
or broad bands of veivet and Is 10 lie worn without
looping; aud the latter, while really striking and
asstngse In appearance, poss esses the additional
comparatively little material.
CHILDRENs FASHIONS.
not forgotten ami tue little ones are stsisniy and
becomingly dressed, aud, TO more than ordinary
ediuons OF mamma are seen promenadlng the
Streets but upon the wnoie, common sense seems
the fashions for children.
At M. Harris, No. Brevoort place, we saw an
elegant assortment OF French ponnets. One was OF
black velvet trimmed with peach color, having a
full front OF black velvet, with point OF black
tnread lace falling over the front. The lace was
caught in the centre crown, with two elegant
piumes, fastened with peach -coiored pompon. The
lace trimming was OF peaen-coiored velvet. Another
bonnet was u black thread lace, the crown entirely
compose OF lace and velvet ribbon. 1be front was
OF scarlet veIyes Win a handsome diadem OF Jet
a black ostrich feather, fastened with handsome
wing al the side, completing ihs fIstDgue bonnet
Inc round hat Alexis vs. OF raisiu colored seal
beaver, trimmed WIN heavJ Iolds OF corresponding
yeiyet, fastened Al the side with bunch 0i jet orna
There were other novelties too numerous TO de-
scribe, among them bridal wreaths, and also large
assortment OF cashmere garments and opera cloaks
Al Nine Tiln.ln 4 Co.'S the following bonnetS
were eADiDiieus-0ne, Tor very Young lady, was
black velvet bonnet, me crown en- Irely composed
oi loops oi l9ht blue gros gram ribbon, and grace
fully fastener by ornament IN the back, the IN.
SIDE trimming consisting Of heavy Diue rucning
There was also oonDet OF black velvet, trimmed
around the crown with folds oi gros grain SIX, with
enormous ostrica leather falling gracefully "
t,e back, caught just a the Iall Dy an ornament aud
IN front by large, exquisite aigrette. The inside
trimming was composed Oh very neavy ruchihg oi
black thread lace This was one OF the Richest bon
nets Imported this season.
bonnet OF two shades Of dark olive green at
uacted attention. Tne front snirred and formed
into sort OF gypsy shape, and the crown trimmed
with iods of green velvet aud dark olive SILK A
hght turquoise leather fell the crown and the
fnslGe trimming very simple, consisted OF the velvet
and siik. W e f##
A very stylish pound hat, somewhat OF the sailor
WAS black velvet. The round crown VI