Public ledger. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1865-1893, 1871-03-30
spring FashIons for acnlIemen.

From the Home Journal
The derby" is the fashionable over
coat this spring, ana is made as follows:
The back is cut as for surtout, rather
long in the waist, and the skirt in pro-
portion, with side edges in the plaits and
four buttons, The forepart is cut the
same as a Chesterfield, and made to
wear open, the collar being cut short TO
keep the, fronts we'll back on the breast.
This coat, combining the style of the
overlook behind and the grace and
elegance Of the sack" or Chesterfield
in front, is y very popular English gar
ment, and likely to supersede the old
style Of spring oyercoat. The cloths
most worn are Venetians, summer ker-
seys meltons, and the new Metz coating;
and the most fashionable colors are
drabs oflight and medium shades, mouse,
tan, slate, gray, and the new dove color.
The collar should be of velvet to match
the cloth, the facings plain, the edges
double-stitched, turned in or raw-edged,
and the sleeves finished with a loose,
round cuff. .....-a
In undercoats, the double breasted
English frock is the leading coat of the
season, and is more than ever fashiona-
Bile, being the coat best adapted to wear
with the present open style of overcoat,
and the most appropriate for promenade,
the theater, or making calls. 1t is now
made to wear buttoned, two buttons only,
the lappels of medium boldness; with
very little curve, and not so pointed as
formerly The collar is cut rather long
and, with the lapels, should be plain
Side-edges, with buttons top and bottom,
are worn on the skirts. The edges are
bound with grenadine or ducape bind
ing, plain silk braids now being consid-
cred out of style. The sleeve is finished
with loose cuff, bound at the top, and
without buttons or holes at the wrists.
The coat next in favor is the double
breasted Newmarket" made to button
one button only, the lapel sewn on, and
same style as for frock coat, but well
cut away from the second button-hole;
pockets in the plaits behind, and side
edges on the skirts--a very stylish coat,
and better adapted to many figures than
the frock.
Morning coats this season are made to
button one button, medium height to
display a Stanley scarf, or TO throw
well back. and wear open lapels rather
small, and the fore part and skirt we'll
cut away in front. Ii Of fine goods, the
pockets are made in the plaits behind;
but If of melton or tweeds, they are
made with good-sized flaps on the hips,
and edges double stitched. Sack under
coats are not in style, and will be but
little worn by gentlemen of fashion.
Vest to wear with the frock and New
market coats should be double-breasted,
with lapels sewn on, and to match the
coat. To wear with the morning coat
the vest should be single-breasted, with
steep collar, and buttoning to match
the coat In new coatings this season
are specially the Granville and Bedford,
and diagonals in new styles and eolors.
The Granville is a new weave, of the
basket pattern, and comes in black and
blue; the Bedfords are straight ribs, of
elastic make and peculiar patterns, the
zig-zag and herring-bone being among
the most stylish. The latest novelty in
diagonals is a bold rib, in color, on a
black ground The colors most favored
are brown, green, rich blue, and gray.
The lines stand well out in relief, and on
the black ground have a very elegant
effect
In suitings the most fashionable are
irregular mixed stripes of gray, heather,
mixed, and small fancy stripes of va
rious colors Of the herring-bone style. |
Trowsers are worn rather fuller at the
knee, with medium spring over the
boot, having a stringent appearance.
Sits at the bottom are in bad taste.
Light drab kersey overcoats improperly
called white coats are very fashion
able as driving coats, and may be worn
with good taste on the street under GER
tain circumstances %