New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1871-05-26
THE FASHIONS.


,.,ion which is especially refreshing. Elegant palaces
-. ris,nq uncn tho ruins Of defunot antiquity; and
white marble Caen and olive freesone relieve the blank
and dismal continuity Of browns stone To certain eX-
tent the style OF architecture like that of dress Is reg
ated by Fashion, and it is equally that Fashion is
numerically tickle like the wind, and inconstant asa
woman, or the moOni But in architecture, Fashion
Is obliged to abide by certain known principles OF
design, and crafty her waveripg propensities by
change of material instead Of style; While IN
the matter OF dress Fashion revolutonizes both
material and style. turning tight sleeves
into flowing; abbreviated round waists into sharp points,
aud bonnets apologies for nothing to wear Thus
is Fashion ig,SS JdtI,S which delights In enticlng
coufdinG mortals by its deceptive advances and van
ishes they upon the point of embracing it. We go
10 eur miners taior's for bonnet or coat which
fashion when order and out of fashion when we
get it, Nevertheless Fashion is charming delusion,
delicious coquette. Therefore let us be fashionable and
politely drop economy. Let the fronts of our dwellings
be brownstone though larder be leaner than the
lean kline. Let pews be front pews lined with velvet
though hearts be for the ashes Of religion Let
us be with golden spoons in mouths, Graded IN
silk buried in rosewood and ascend thus TO the abodes
of the elite
The preparations then for the coming season are I'M
lnense Husbands grumble fearfully about the LAVISH
expenditure, and growl the most uninteligipe p"O'
about stocks and loans and bonds and exchanges mar
gins money markets, and all sorts OF dreadfui oap"
isms, which women never could be made 10 conpiono'
and which should never be inflicted upon hen' ioi o'
need the hundred eyes Argus and the hundred hahu
n, ,,orcus IN manage their cards the great game OF
life irving new fashions and encouraging the hopes vi
fading daughters Aud shopping and preparing Ior
the out-oftown exodus Ia the oruer oi tne ua! ioi
women are NO longer the passive creatures Oh Pas'
generation. They like Mephistopheles In Iounous
Eausf as regards possessing and grasping Tor the un
at,anable Among the elegant tOilettes on
Fifth-ave. last Sunday several we're exqui-
site enough 10 arrest attention costume
lending grace beautiful brunette was cameo SILK
like the pale moonbeams shimmerng over the delicate
green Of the the long coseyfttng polonalse
and skirt were trimmed with feathery ruches OF the
same and bands Of green silk the petite Leghorn gpsey
trimmed with green and white grain, and branch
aqua marina leaves falling from the back lntermAeu
with dewy drops and glistening sprays OF sea-Weed
gloves and parasol correspondent Another was com
nosed of a delicate shade Of lilac, odfashoned rosy
lilac trimmed en- taber with five bias bands of lovely
tint of violet finished at each end with fiat bows Two
broad bands Of the same edged the skirt the over
skirt ooped back TO form that boufant effect fashion
able was trimmed TO match. All OF the bands were
edged with narrow black thread lace. The jacket cor
respondngly made had extremely wide flowing sleeves
puffed lace underseeves with rufe OF Valenciennes
lace falling the violet gloves The Gipsey bonnet
OF white chip exquisitely trimmed with lilac crepe
de chine and clusters Of rich Parma voiets Inc pasoI
was of lilac silk with black thread lace cover.
1t true that goods much lower in prices than or
many years. But the enormous quantity required LOT
street as well home costumes forms very expensive
aggregate 20 TO 40 yards of silk being used Inc
extremely long and full overskrt added 10 the very
fll underskirt almost makes up the quantity Tor TWO
dresses Thus the ruching, rufng and hounclng the
large sleeves etc. II purchased made up OF hght mod
eratelypriced silk suit will not nirequenty cost so VI
$50 Heavier silks. deliberately trimmed run as
high AS 800 and $500 Five and six yards of costly SIX
are rthlesly cut into straight strips for ruchng
which with magic presto OF Fashions wand, may De
ass< before II is scarcely less economical to
have ones made by ones dressmaker as the
amount OF work makes necessary corresponding pay
the only remedy be small outlay in patterns
cut to lit the form Mirror of Fashion and with
good sewingmaehine, tobecOme, at an immense saving
money Iif not time ones dressmaker, being the
gamer Of the very lowest estimate, SIS up to $50
and s60
The real India pongee has made its debut before an adj
iring public. very elegant soft, and substantial
vet quite cool enough for the warnest days, OF pale
Inf as 1t is mbeached This material is very different
from sOcalled japanese silks both in texture and
appearanee The pOngee adds to its other attractions
that OF washing quite well as cotton goods without
losing its beautiful silky luster The rayed ruehes make
Z lovely soft fluffy trimming inermixed with brown or
black silk ruches laid beneath. There are, also, real
pongee parasOs 10 match these costumes. Lace ior
trimming is more extensively used than and in the
end is economical 1t is of no consequence how
beautiful costly the garniture Of dress may be; II
has short reign and is then consigned to OBLIVION by
The caprice of La Mode while the contrary lace is al
ways fashionable and loses its value. Gupure
lace is found in suit the costumes for example,
n silky sivery white grenadine beautifully trimmed
with violet bands OF silk edged with gupure Of the same
tint DeheSse which very much resembles Honiton,
T. prouscly used also Vaenciennes in all its real rich
ness and its "countereit presenment in the patent
lace of that name extensively used for trimming such
being laid under black lace also for the ornamental
fon of white suits.
Fringe has revived and will be used as the sea
son wears on, in On the beautiful cameo and
ppalne silks of two shades indeed upon all dresses
wherein two coors used fringes can be made to
order by sending sample of the matert, Moss trim
mings make exceedingly appropriate heading for
fringe The fashionable fringe of the day comprises
great variety in style, dantly tasseled, fossy block
plain sewingslk, and crimped What is termed block
fringe has each alternate portion of the fringe
made OF a different shade; for example, beautiful
costume Of cafe Idt silk and brown, is trimmed with
fringe Of the two shades, either mixed blocked III
sections These fringes placed upon the edges Of
Dverskir pOonaises, sleeves and Stimulating vests the
same as ruches palmer costumes and black grena
dine Tom Thumb fringe is still in favor. Bows
yiyed also and are extensively used upon the dress;
oftimes at the back lieu OF position, large butter
Hy bow is placed, at the point OF the basque,
npon the cOrsage, in place OF buttons, ana
combining the ends of trimming. PGssementerie
At the heading of lace has not yet lost caste;
nor are the interests Of childhood forgotten Tor there
are most delightful daines gotten up for the adornment
Of tiny specimens humanity robes Of the EXTREMIST
decacy seem az If woven by the hands OF goblin sprites
,nto exouiste designs suited only TO the tender
years and innocent heplessness that they are destined
10 enwrap II babies dream-aDd who can doubt that
these souls fresh Heaven, have rot Their own Small
roseIned visions In their dreambestowed IN
tellect they must grateful for tie soft garbs the
masses Of sken embroidery, the marvels OF workman