The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1871-05-31
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It is true that goods are much lower in
prices than for many years But the enor-
nous quantity required for street as we'll as
home costumes forms very expensive aggre-
gate, from 20 to 40 yards of silk being used.
The extremely long and full overskirt, added
to the very full underskirt, almost makes up
the quantity for two dresses. Thus the
ruching, rufhing and houncing the large
sleeves, ETC., If purchased made mp, of light,
moderately-priced silk suit, will not infre-
quently cost $75 or $50. Heavier silks, more
elaborately trimmed, run as high as $400 and
$500
Five and six yards of costly silk are ruth
lessly cut into bias or straight strips for ruoh-
ing, which, with the magic presto of Fashions
wand, may be paSse before half worn. 1t is
scarcely less economical to have ones mate
rial made up by ones dressmaker, as the
amount OF work makes necessary correspond
ing pay the only remedy seems to be small
outlay in patterns cut to fit the form at some
Mirror Of Fashion, and with good sewing
machine, to become, at an immense saving of
money if not time, ones own dressmaker,
being the gamer of, at the very lowest esti-
mate, $25 up to $50 and $50.
The real India pongee has made its debut
before all admiring public. 1t is very ele-
CANT soft, and substantial, yet quite cool
enough for the warmest days. of pale buff,
as it is unbleached. This material is very
silks.
both in texture and appearance. The pongee
adds to its other attractions that of washing
quite as we'll as cotton goods, without losing
its beautiful silky lustre. The frayed ruches
make lovely, soft, fluffy trimming inter-
mixed with brown or black silk ruches laid
beneath There are also real pongee para
soils to match these costumes. Lace for
trimming is more extensively used
than ever, and in the end is more
economical 1t is of no consequence how
beautiful or costly the garniture of dress
may be; it has a short reign, and is then con-
signed to oblivion by the caprice of Ia mode,
while on the contrary lace is always fashioua-
BILE and never loses its value. Guipure lace
is found in colors to suit the costume; for
example, a silky, slvery white grenadine was
beautifully trimmed with violet bands of silk
edged with guipure of the same tint.
DucheSSe lace, which very much resembles
Honiton, Is profusely used, also Valenciennes
in all its real richness, and ITS counterfeit
presentment" in the patent lace of that name
is extensively used for trimming, such as
being laid under black lace also for the orna-
mentation of white suits.
Fringe has been revived, and will be used
as the season wears on, III excess. On the
beautiful cameo and opaline silks of two
shades, and indeed upon all dresses wherein
two colors are used, fringes can be made to
order by sending sample of the material.
Moss trimmings make an exceedingly appro-
pirate heading for fringe. The fashionable
fringe OF the day comprises great variety in
style, 6aintily tasselled, fossy, block, plain
sewing silk, and crimped. What is termed
'block fringe has each alternate tassel or
portion of the fringe made of different
shade; for example, beautiful costume of
cafe an lait, silk and brown, is trimmed with
fringe of the two shades either mixed or
blocked in sections. These fringes are placed
he cd nf rt,fo Ill
sleeves, and Stimulating vests, the same as
Iuches For palmer costumes and black
grenadine, Tom Thumb fringe is still in
favor Bows are revived, also, and are ex-
tensively used upon tho dress; ofttimes at the
back, in lieu of position, large butterfly
bow is placed, or at the point of the basque
upon the corsage, in place of buttons, and
confnipg the ends of trimming. PdSseRaeA-
terie at the heading of lace has not yet lost
caste nor are the interests of childhood for
gotten, for there are most delightful daintie9
gotten upfor the adornment of tiny specimens
of humanity; robes of the EXTREMIST delicacy
seem as if woven by the hands of goblin sprites
into exquisite designs, suited only to the tender
years and innocent helplessness that they are
destined to enwrap. If babies dream-and
who can doubt that these souls fresh from
Heaven, have not their own small rose-tinted
visions ?-surely in their dream bestowed in
tellect they must be grateful for the soft
garbs the masses of silken embroidery, the
marvels of workmanship that do not clash
with the daintiness of their natures Ham,
burg embroidery in insertions and edgings is
very extensively used upon children's piQue
suits as well as their under clothing. Hand
some and substantial, it defes all "wear and
tear" For ladies' under garments, as we'll as
for combing- jackets, dressing and breakfast
sacks, embroidery and braidipg are quite OBJ
solete cut bias and straight tucking guipure
edge embroidery, fine Hamburg and imita-
tion DucheSSe lace are used in the greatest
profusion.
Parasols are great improvement upon the
infnitesimal toys of the past. Were it not
for the delicacy of their finish and fine ma
terial they might be called umbrellas, so ex-
cellent protection are they from the sun,
wind, and rain. For real use upon shopping
expeditions and the constitutional" as the
daily walk is called, we find parasols of dark
blue, deep damson, and purple, with straight
strong handles; again of black, lined and
faced on the outside with blue and crimson.
These are made of twilled pongee and silk
serge; also, in fine pale buff cambric, line /
or simply scalloped and bound with colored
silk. The walking-stick, the Swiss musli
over silk, and the always pretty lace-covered
and dainty white silk parasol, rival their more
substantial neighbors. 1t is impossible to
avoid being suited with so large variety to
choose from.
Spring bonnets have already been described,
but many changes have arisen in the dainty
creations for summer wear. The piquant
gipsey bonnets are larger than their predeces-
sors, but none the less quaint and becoming.
Possibly some of the fair readers of the IrI-
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