Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1871-08-10

pell. yesterday We took an excursion 10
Capri, and to morrow we are to ascend
Vesuvius. -.g.....-.s.. xf....an.i
| To-day have attended the services at
the Scotch Presby terrain church here. l
have never realized the relief-the COM
fort-the edifcation of our simple and
earnest and sacred forms of orship as
have in travelling in foreign countries,
where such services are rare, and those
in common vogue are SO different. But
the English and Scotch are great church
lovers, and there is hardly place of re-
sort on the continent where they don't
have worship On the Sabbath. And in
many of the larger cities there is also an
American service. 80 that one who values
such privileges need not be deprived of
them.
The place where am writing is ex-
tremely pleasant, delicious breeze is
coming in from the bsy-cool and refresh
ing, for it is already hot here in southern
Italy. am up in the fourth story, where
=
can describe-the day is lovely one and
here is the place to read. or think, or write
or rest, and yet there is such kdin and
clamor and hustle in the street below
that my thoughts and my pen are greatly
distracted from their purpose. Naples is,
l believe, the noisiest city in the world.
Such shouting, screaming, rollicking,
gay, reckless, riotous, unrestrained, and
worse than all, filthy race of men never
saw. And to-day they are having a regu.
lar holiday. As write, people of every
conceivable garb and manner are passing
along in the street below me, and vehicles
indescribable and without number are
rattling over the pavement making a jar
gon of voices and rafting of wheels and
hoofs on the pavement that is almost
daafening. Vehicles from prinoesss
equipsge, with footmen in gilded livery,
| to Neapolitan two wheeled cart, drawn
by a lean and lively donkey,-and con-
tanning a dozen men women and children,
ragged and happy, apparently enjoying
their excursion ten times more than their
royal road companions.
As 1 write a Russian priest with his
funny hat and long flowing robe and
beard, rides by. 4 goodman is whip
ping up his horses. The Neapolitans are
all Jehus, and always put their steed's.
horses or donkeys into a fierce gallop-a
gust Of wind comes and sends his tattered
old hat off into the street to be chased by
lot Of yelling street urchins. A COM
pany of scholars from military school
are being paraded out on their afternoon
walk by pair Of prim tutors. A little
distance up tho street are ii lot of stalls or
booths where oysters and other much less
palatable shell fish, oranges, figs, macaro-
nj and other things exposed for sale
and eaten in the dirtiest way, by the
dirtiest conceivable people. On the stone
wall that skirts along the pier some bare
footed, hearhcaded, half naked, sun
Drowned, ragged aud tattered fisher boys
are stretched ont at length in the warm
afternoon sun. And SO they pass and
stop, and sit and shout ell 10 one general |
tumble. There goes hack aud the driv
er Is cracking his whip like pistol, and
his horse is galloping at the top of bis
speed trying to keep pace with little
straight legged donkey whose master, as
he sits bouncing up and down on the top
of his little cart, oviuces no less skill in
whip cracking than his more dignihed
rival There goes young chap with a
little low ph@ton and the cutest pair of
Shetland ponies you ever saw, but neither
he, with his gay footman, nor the prince
in the next equipage, with glossy blacks
and driver and footmar in long blue
coats, red vests, white half hose and top
boots, look half as independent as their
nearest neighbors on the conrse,-both |
riding donkoys loaded with vegetables
they sre bringing into market, one sit
ting "lady fashion" and the other farther
astern and poised half on his side. with
one leg stretched ont behind, as we boys
used to sit on our sleds and stear.
Such 10 a Naples street scene on suu-
dav afternoon. But that is on fashiona-
BILE street in front of the hotels where
foreigners stay, aud which are kept passa-
bly, clean. The real Naples street scene
is in the ceater of the old city, where are
leagues of long, narrow, crooked lanes and
alleva, not deserving the names of streets,
80 narrow, and with buildings so high
that one can only see little narrow strip
of sky above, so heaped up with filth that
no prudent stranger would dare to tread
them for fear of being mired-so choked
with crowds of squalid, filthy human be-
ings that it is wonderful how a carriage
can pass through without running over
them by the dozen. But these streets are
among the most interesting sights of Ma
pies. You hire carriage holding two for
sixty confines, or twelve cents, and tell
the driver to take you to the railway sta
ton through the Stradadi Porto, and
such a maze, such labyrinths of long.
dark winding streets as you go through
there is something that is almost fearful
in the thought of it; with barely room
for two narrow carriages to pass, each
house and shop standing with the door
open, and hardly threshold to separate
the private apartments from the pnblic
streets. People stepping out or in their
doors or on the pavement-for sidewalks
are MISUNDERSTANDING bargains, haggling
over all conceivable wares except what
would conduce to cleanliness or deceney.
A full description of these streets would
hardly be appropriate in polite converse
ton, nor could I allow myself here to
describe 1.-THE of the filth and the shock
ing indecency that one must see at every
turn in these miserable quarters, to say