The daily Panola star. (Sardis, Miss.) 1871-1872, 1871-11-01
sARDIs. PANoLA COUNTY. MISSISSIPPI.


FMFH4NNAHI
The rfaffds af Hslnf scenta u szfiasfs
dessflpfisHs i - unissFsri fhai % dsfef.i
& seems iiisifd. Vet fl.e affset II ihoss
whimsifsi fsfafmffI Wh8 Hhitftz . -
fsdesni ne rofii IN 81 Instant ~ 9
maTasre aftiele dfss rve4 . sfrht men
ton. he rif aha ne affalm With
infh writer's have employed aFtlnsf tlsf
nar Of perfumes. will. wleh balled dove
~ found ~ amount 10 fhis. thft IN men
NE use of scent. IL tffeniuale. hnd ~
women u 4 . ftahieu SCI ~ thosr vho
hal good physical reason fof i. And in
support oi this Odious plsce ~ acsni a
such writer. generally quote the lines Of
llCu Johna0n'
''srg to 10 sesufsa. sfnf psrfumsa.
ltlif ~ e ~ b. pfesumed.
All ia aoi s~sst, III y Get soaae .''
This ls worse than the i'tile tattle ~
Lady Blue Mantle. 40 pleasantly coul-
nemorated nv Sir Richard Steele IN tl,e
Spectator. u i obvious 10 every person
nf unbiased judgment that thepfacflce Of
uking perfnmery originated In the reli-
gious services Of the Aryans, who
crowned their shrines with flowers, and
burned sandal wood and ghee In honor
0f Angi, the Fire God aud the swift mes-
sengcr Of Jusyer. The services took
place at the dawn and at sunset, at the
hour when the floral world Il most fray
rant. All the worshipers, without ex-
ception. wore on their heads fllets Of
sweet scented flowers Their simple
I hymns In honor of Brahm, the Univer-
sal, aud their more immediate deltles,
went up amid the awakening or the
closing carol OF birds, the fragrance of
( flowers, and the crimsoned glories OF the
over arching heavens. But wnen
through the mutations of the globe the
temperature became changed and colder,
when there was no longer one universal.
never ending spring, then the ingenuity
Of these our foreistbers was taxed to
find some means by which the sweet
odor of flowers might remain to them
through the rigors Of winter. 1t Is not
difficult TO guess how the secret was dis
! covered. The ghee, which is used for
butter in Oriental countries, is stored in
huge measures OF leather, the skins of
buli'a'oes twisted into shane exactly
like the atmosphere OF the Greeks and
Romans. BY some accident cbaplet of
flowers fell into one of these, and gave
its perfume to the gbee, The hint was
acted on, and pertumed ghee became the
first step. BY degrees thespikenardand
the various precious ointments of which
we read were elaborated, until In the full
ness OF time the manner In which the
essence could be extrected from the f.t
was discovered, and the perfected per-
flme was revealed to delightful world.
There may be other ways, perhaps, but
I a, 70 th,a thou ba
been discovered. The city Of Nice is,
perhaps, the headquarters OF this pro-
cess. That pleasant place is surroundtd d
by immense fields of roses, iassamine,
atephanotis, verbena, Gala lilies, night
blooming cereus, and all the flowers
from which extracts are made. The
half opened buds contain the most per-
tune, and as fast as they are plucked by
experienced hands they are thrown on
layers of fat, and renewed as soon rs
their essential oils have been absorbed.
When the fat can receive no more it
is relieved OF Its precious burden by pro-
cesses which are patents and secrets of
the trade. This is the chemical part of
the business which few perfumers UNDER
take. The next step is TO unite these es-
sential oils In certain proportions with
very pure alcohol ninety-five per cent.
above proof. Before this union, how
ever. they have to be treated with a
vehicle, which is another secret. For
some extracts magnesia Is used, for
others honey, and for others various
compounds. The essential oil is rubbed
with this until perfect intermingling
has been obtained, and then it Is treated
with alcohol In various proportions, ac-
cording to the ideas Of the perfumer.
The proportion Of the essence to the alco-
hol OF American manufactures of per-
fumes Is about two ounces of the one 10
a gallon of the other. But experience
has proved that the great majority of flo
raj extracts are too weak by themselves.
and must be fortified by musk--once a
favorite perfume, but now completely
out OF fashion. 1t Is intensely strong,
and the expression that q little OF itg goes
great way Is here literally true, for a
Ethousandth part Of grain Of musk will
difuse itself through large room.
There are many species ofvarious genera
which bear the musk gland, notably the
beaver, but that intelligent animal has
been so thinned by the demands of COM
merce, that he has fed to almost mac
cessible. regions In the interior of this con-
tinent, where, however, he Is still har-
assed by the Canadian voyageurs and
their red allies. The present supply of
musk comes from the musk deer, and
reaches us almost entirely through Chi
nese and Russian sources. Chemists COM
plain bitterly of the adulterations found
In Chinese article, and 1t appears that
| these bland heathens increase the weight
with SAT d, lead, iron filings, hair, tobac-
co, borax, asphaltum and dried blood. s