Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-08-31

trimmed with Knit OF box plating too scaut
noancss Guy Guy, GUY y, IN y, arg swallow sooops and
Is bcrdered with heavy brilliant fringe. o. A new
style. quite deep, and matching in color.
and completeness ofdetail, the fringe i made 70
order in the tones Of the material; and a most
perfect effect produced.
Suits IN two or more 90 the darker or neutral
shades, are more desirable than costumes. which
have now lost caste. Two msterials are still put
together, bu two colOrs and material degen-
Grated AZ once into patchy toilettos, without
ing girls stin wear them, they are inadnisSable
Tor more dignihed matrOns.
Very pretty and simple yet distinguished suits
wool dolainos. The fashionable ooIors - -
grey, violet, dove color, and wood brown F,nlin
aeiaine differs from the ordinary material OF
mat name In being heavier. With threads IKE
fine cords, and when made M an NEooi hi A. =
very soft and desirable fabric
The under skirts are slightly trained ana have
taIes attached 90 tie them up walking length
The uprcr skirt and basque NAV De faced AMI
piped with corded silk, and turned up az the
Sdes with large cashmere buttons, but many
ladies use the piping alone; OF course the six
pipings match the cashmere in color
BACK SIX suits promise TO he A. fashlOnahly
worn as ever. During the pas; season there has
been a rage for trimming these with black over
white, and this will undoubtedly cOntinue more
or loss through the tall. The newest suits. how
ever, viii be far mere richly and appropri atsly
trimmed for the season with silk and ri,h hlack
fringe, With handsome passementerie heading.
The new fringos are in magnificent widths aud
qualities, and range frOm one 20 ten dollars per
YARD. Ihe mounting in paSsementerie or
Soustach u broad and complete, ohviating any
necessity for folds or edgings Of the mEterial
as :" headineS" They Will probably superceda
laSe 20 great extent for the trimming Of
polonaise OF sllk and velvet.
The American 81 gros grain Is particularly
ADOPTED for seryiceable fan suits. IL j. not -
drSssy; but u Is heavy and more desirable than
- siik. Now that duh effects are required in
black silk, Il is really more disfiagae than
glossy French silks, at double the price.
PLATED GARIBALDI WAISTS
nave now become an institution. In striped
cambria they can be bought Of the stores for
slJo each. In anticipation Of c ooler weather
however ladies are having them made in cOlOred
silk or cashmere, pink. blue, brown. buff violet
and grey. The cashmere are generally braided,
the SIX ofnamented with fine bac X lace inser-
non or bdiies. Half dozen Is not considered
skirts.
LARGE poNNFTs.
Livery one Is anticipating return 20 the three
story and coal scuttle bonnets. bat there are two
reasons against IL. One II the TACT that ladies
are sun wearing abroad the small bOnncts Of last
year, the other thatintelligent milliners must be
aware that they cannot AFFORD TO give such odds
10 The round hat. Twenty years ago the round
hats were hardly known. IL was the big bonnet
or nothing, for the girls Of seventeen. a. well as
the women Of seventy. After round hats were
became mere head-drtsses. and the women OF
seventy had really less covering for her head
than girl OF seventeen.
What we want n wv, I'm addition 20 the round
hats Is al as; two distinctive STYLES in bonnets;
one GROWING with grace and beauty the stiIl
youthful head Of the mstrOn, the other quiet
ana protective Tor the woman past middle age.
The round hat is now an established and very
useful fact. An absurily large or monstrOusly
ugly bonnet can never again obtain a fcothold,
because there are always the pretty and con-
vonient round hats 60 fan back upOn
A Cottage" bonnet OF a very pretty and con-
venient share, and soft cap, crowned style,
with rim and curtain, are in preparation. The
GYPSY has almost disappeared.
BLACK CASHMERE AND ALPACA SUITS,
particularly the latter, are made very plainly
PlaitIngs and rulings have Disappeared cNcei,t
upon the lower skirt, and even upOn this they
are now often replaced by hand.
Cashmere Is not unfreQucntly trimmed with
soustach fringe, or, As last year, with handsome
guipure lace and a passementrie or gimp head
ing, but alpaca and mOhar are finished with
cross-cut bands Of the same, piped with heavy
slk, ana The narrower the band, and the more
there are Of them, the finer they are. Some
bands are graduated IN width, Others are of uni
1oIm size upon the upper and under skirt.
Three upon the sk.rt and two upon the po!Onaise
Il the common number, but FIVE below and
three above are better. And there are some
handsome suits Of otter alpaca and fine mohair
made with seven bands ON the lower skirt and
nYe upon the upper.
GLIMPSE OF WINTER.
Suits in cloth velour and other warm fabrics
will he worn during the coming winter without
doubt, but they will be less strictly adhered 90
than for the past two years. The truth IL while
very well adapted TO the mild winter OF a
southern climate they afford hardly any protec-
ton against the rigOr OF the north. Lining the
Jackets with flannel assisted somewhat 10 break
the face Of Ordinarally cold weather, but pierre
ing east wind or driving snow storm requires
strong defonces. Northern ladies of small
means, therefore, who cannot revcl IN silk auilt-
ed velvet, or Elder lined furs, will be glad 20
have English cloth pelisses, with without
capes, in addition 20 the handsome reversible
waterproof cloth, which form a most protective
gar ent with cape and hood, and one not at all
10 he desIisod for occasional excursions and es-
peCially for country wear. OF course we shall
have royal garment Of velvet, which will take
the form Of a long ample pOlOnaise and be richly
trimmed with heavy imperial fringes and Son
toeses CT mbrolae1y ci Monderiul deiicacy and
beauty. But il is pleasant 60 know that we shall
not be obliged 20 freeze ii we cannot afford so
elegant garment
FLOWERS AND CoLoRs.
The coming season il expected 20 be gorgeous
in toiettcs, and moreover IL is thought these will
be Of the most distinctive character. Dark,
neutral, plain for street purposes, varied by
glimIses Of the tartan; but light and lovely in
tint in lace, in trailing flowers for evening wear.
Oyer-drcsses worn over blush pink, pale blue,
ard lehtest pearl grey viii be made OF fine or
CANDY, Nalenciennes lace and insertions; flowers
viii be used profusely in trails. not in punches,
mantled upon stems, and less upon velvet and
ribbon than was the case last year.
VENETIAN COLLARS.
Some exquisite Venetian collars have been
made of fine Nalencit nnes instead Of lOnt and
the effect UPON velvet is much softer; but, un-
fortunately; Nalenciennes thickcns somewhat in
the most careful washing, while some can be
cleaned to look quite new.
OSTRICH FEATHERS.
These ornaments have obtained a rank of
their own, which is almost independent OF fash
ion. Like real lace, diamonds and old china,
their value is the same whatever a passing
caprice Of La Mode may dictate as % present
styles. Real ostrich planes are therefore very
costly, but they are the cheapest of feather or
naments in the long run, because they viii clean
and dye and re-dye, and always be unapprOach-
able.
Ostrich plumes are highly appreciated by
American women OF culture and refinement.
whose tastes IL must be said, tend generally % the
aesthetic in art and ornament; but they are not
always prepared fer the tricks put upon them
by dealers. The feathers Of the American yul-
ture arc quite as often bought for ostrich a. the
real, and not uHirequontly two or three clever
splicings will produce a plume OF unusual
length and apparent beauty. which l. sold for
three times it, real value. In buying a costly
feather, therefore, IL il well 20 look out for tie
slightest indication Of want Of evenness and per
Il ctiCn, and 10 make important purchases as a
rule OF those who have reputation 60 sustain,
and can therefore be relied upon.
SKIRTS.
No gathers are 60 be tolerated in skirts; the
fulness IL plated into the waist. Nc bindings
arc used for the bottom of skirts; tie material
is simply hommed up on the lining. Shoulders