New-York tribune., 1871-09-22
THE FASHIONS.

AUTUMN OPENING DAYS OF NEW HAaHIOM-
THE NEW BoNNETs AND HATsIIhMAdH -
THEREOF - NEW OUTSIDE WRAPS - POLO
MASSES, MANTLEs, TALAAs-COSTUAES-AA
TRRIALs-HAIR ARRANGEMENT. u 4
With the first pen dipping, one hes1tates ID
amusing perplexity In fact, 1t IL getting to be reav
polyelot combination to discuss fsshions or VINE
fashion article To accomplish this end satisfactorily.
one must needs study deeply among Re~ssssan's Oeo
and papers and French and English direefo'rsi al
the charming follies that nade our sreatsreatens
mothers bewitchine culminate in the toilets OF a"es
dame Of tho present day. Styles frcm Louis Kill "
Louis XVI. present themseve and are duly adnnoe' y
preciated and coveted upon these, the "openins ov
and reception days Of La Node ana nef IL.
prestesses Tho delicious treasures exnlpi'eo nv
doubtless turned many womans brsin' 1or "n No
longer the eentle passveness which dictates 70 pe
not to be :" 1t s Ito have. not to have Ano vno
can wonderi When pearls from the East conttA'S VIZ
the climmer of diamonds, cashmeres, marvellous en-
broidery rch cloths and tissues, and perfumes e~
eled faeons rvalng "gales from Arapy inc DicsS
one can only add without further moraliEng that ~
phstophees in Gounods Faust Is tho best
of woman sigbing for the unattainabie. -.
The opening days OF the present Autumn oher many
changes. old ideas are improved upon and oftmes OK
aopernted and costumes rather "mxed a. rogards
style To be strictly In fashion, one must presont COPY
Of fashion plates Of century ago, but 1t u TOO oien tno
case that different ages conounded togetner tnss
would make Q virtuoso or learned antiquarian
tear his hair in dismay. But Win pea<"
and fine linen and scarlet, Fashion VIII always oe ohA
ing always slluring Notwithstanding the Empire sne
pennbl,c and the Pompadour 10 blended. Added to
these ore Modes Amerioainei
The newest chapeauS, fer "bonnet" 10 o term no
longer applicable, the Chapeau Empire, OF rich due
velvet square, high fat crown, is trimmed with white
blonde lovely large pink rose and buds, nom Which
depended long floating branch Of brown green leaves
@lo 10 Rotu
trimming Of large knot Of blue velvet broad gros grain
string OF blue Price, t2s. The Chapedu Penpadour,
most aristocratc and perfect ehapeau, as piquant
as pyramidal, made Of rose-cOlor royal velvet.
black and pink ostrich tips, mingled with
black Chanttfy lace, rosecol@ed scarf, lad
In seven folds around the crown and falling In two long
ends edged with iaeo laid over pinkkRottcd fringe;
large let ornament fastened black velvet bow In mont
This was marked 90. The Princess Gotha magnificent
plum. colored ehapeau with round deep cape Of the
nature of the book of fremans hat; this Is trimmed
with JaiUe OF the tint; nestled danty, midst nne
black Chantly and bow Of Jote, s brilliant littie
bird OF Paradise; the inside was filed In with white
blonde edged with black lace broad bias srin S. d
This is considered worthy Of sa2 Yet another was an
Empire, OF white royale; this was trimmed with black
lace and snowy ostrich tips, a feather trimming Ike
newly fallen snow fakes filed In the 'front.' and was
masked h gh upon the top-S2G.
"The Tuck hat' was in four shades Of brown, a high
pu OF dark gros grain covered the tho folds were
alternate velvet and silk with ostrich tips Of tho hghtest
shade Of brown approaching salmon tho strings OF the
second shade Of brown Price, t2a Many OF the bonnets
are very much like military eAapeams, with visor. stiff
high crown aud ofmes equally stG cape. They sit
90 high upon the head to form species OF pyramida
cone In 'front.' In tho prmeva style that Welsh peasants
in old time pictures their odd sunhats 1t will bo
perceived therefore, all trace Of the cOquctsh dainty
little gpsy have passed away The pewes bonnes range
L. t.A A1E and
tho same shape. Louis Xvlth, or Derby, 30 strongly
resembling the riding hat. The crowns are
invariably higl broad. with rolled brim Very hand
some ones are exhibited with brlm caught up upon
one side suggestive Of Continental days and the English
turbans will still be trimmed with fat folds OF vel
vet and Je with loops upon sido holding sth. un-
fierce little wings Of every known Bird or
perhaps few cocks fcahers. Tho trimmings this sea-
son arc ostrich feathers mostly short in tips, very curly
and fluffy; large with beautifully tinted Autumn
leaves clusters of browngreen leaves tinged with decay
and dropping buds OF bouquets OF leaves In oil the most
brilliant OF Autumnal tintngs, with long graceful ten
drills Other trimmings Of Jaie, velvet, royale. and
heavy gros grain.
In evening, visiting. and reception ehapeanr tho coors
are exceedingly delicate the charming Teur de pecht
soft yeIowrosy shade sometimes seen In shels, whto
family tnged with blue pale lusterless green apricot
and o creamy salmon. Nearly all Of the trimming s
massed the at the back In fact, the bonnes
to them. II Quaker coalscutte with its plated
crown were to be shorn OF half its front, with
visor added and then made to stand erect cIown up
ward, 1t would give the best idea OF the Empire
CAapeau The sides At very nicely to the head and the
face trimming Is quito scanty, bnt the bonnet OF the
period striking contrast 10 the bonnet OF tho past
lovely and artistic eec is produced In gray velvet
and bright roseolored bonnet masses Of eured ostrich
tips in pink and gray mixtures Of a in the two colos
white blonde for the face. In which charming little
spray Of pink buds Is half concealed forms this simple
yet lovely ch1peau.
An exquisite bridal vail needs COMMENT Of misty tue'
falling back from the head train, the hem was con-
eeaed by snowy clusters Of lily Of the valley alternating
with white lilac in tiny sprays The wreath was orange
blossoms with long pendants tendrs floating grace
fully over the shoulders and brow Of the destined BRIDE
helping to hide the glad face, as Love ranshgures
nfe"
At some celebrated emporium OF fashion very styl-
ish Empire arrested the attention, Of two shades In
brown with mixed ostrich tips, q broad band passed
around the high pued long garland Of brown
yelvoty leaves depended gracefully from cluster Of
bright yellow orchids with decately shaded leaves.
Louis XVI. hat Of brown pearl braid was trimmed
with folds OF rovale in ashes Of roses and brown.
charming empire Of royalc In rich plum COLOR garnished
with clusters OF dewy May roses, the long tendrs Of
delicate buds and Autumn leaves with faint sreaks and
dashes Of green and crimson Another was OF gray vel
vet with the rare lovely floating from clusters
carnation pinks these flowers placed exceedingly
high at the back Of the crown
Regarding outside wraps, in all other material but vel
vet there ia fuctuaion OF favor. but like India shawls
and furs 1t always holds It's without ceasing At
ono establishment were exhibited many very elegant
garments in polonaise Of black velvet hanttng very
eaborately trimmed With jet pcsserenre guipure, and
fringe The Regina of rich blue black, scarf was
smulated on the back composed OF embroidery in jet
and gpure fringe Of mixed Jet and silk. for &22o The
Rosande was piped with satin; Jet and silk fringe
relt and sash Of velvet with this price 800.
tightly fitting long coat was nearly covered with
orn and fringe the trimming very much on tile