The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1871-08-26
Letters from Hawaii-No. /.
[FRoM OUR rRAvELIxe CORRESPONDENT

way 10 I1llO Dy the next morning. vi OOuiSSs VIC
all felt miserabIy selfish. and profoundly Indifferent
to each others feelings, each one being wholly wrapt
up in the enjoyment @ of the NAL de mer," that
unfailing accompaniment of q trip amongst the ISL
ands of this group. Imagine US gradually becoming
accustomed to the erratic motions of our schooner,
and emerging from our shells to take a peep at the
outside world and each other, and congratulating
ourselves ON having a good breeze that has not left
us up to the present mOIn-nt. Yesterday we cleared
the channel between Molokai and Maui, and ran
across a small school of sperm whales, who were in
sight more or less during the entire day. This
morning We are lacking up the coast from Laupa-
hoehoe, and with a smooth sea and good breeze
(albeit ahead) we are enjoying the view of
THE FINEST COAST LINE
In this group, and one in its way not excclled 10y
any in the world. Its bold shores remind one of the
frowning cliffs of st. Helena, but that island has no
sparkling cascades scanning the rude rocks with
bands of silver. The beautiful forests, and park
like groves that clothe the sloping hills, are like the
cultivated fields of Fayal ia the Azores, but there we
see no bright green turf, smoothly spreading over
the rough hills and giving a finished look to the
landscape, that is not often to be seen in the wilds of
Nature. One feels while looking ON this beautiful
0~NASo 80 ~ my IA NV III ~ UOhao 6R'S o"J
sort of an idea of its beauties. and the task is rem
dered doubly difficult by the rapid changes that
come over the scene as we glide slowly along. The
term Emerald Isle can be applied with justice
to this 9 gem of the sea, - as seen from this side at
least aud one feature in the landscape still further
reminds one Of "Sweet Erin,'' or her apostle at
least, for
"In every glen lac built a church,
And on II put a sieeple"
We count four churches that might be designated
" high 'low," and platitudinarian,' - as far as
their sites are concerned and from the absence Of
dwellings. or huts even, one is led to inquire as to
where the congregations come from. No doubt,
each one musters a (self) suficiency, but of that we
intend to inform ourselves better as we go along.
The school-master advises me to ego Slow and l
will let questions lie over.
SPEAKING OF LYING
'Twould do you good to hear some Of the yarns that
have been spun, and are yet in the process of manu-
featuring on board. l have been requested to make
q note of the mere prominent ones, and half made
up my mind to remember and jot down one or two.
1 am forced to give it up, however, as | know that
the P. c. A. has a character to sustain, and though
you Il hope) have announced yourself as not re-
sponsible" for anything that your correspondent
may say, still, there is a limit to all human patience,
as the man said after having had his nose pulled,
and dirt cast upon the memory of his parents. And
so I forbear.
We have just &" gone about q nautical term
which 1 will explain at some future time) and now,
sitting on the deck, looking forward, just abeam of
the jolly boat, say two points off the main-hatch, a
MAGNIFICENT DOUBLE WATERFALL
Comes in sight. We should Judge that the line OF
cliffs here would average one hundred and fifty feet
in heighth, and the streams find their way out TO the
face of the pail through clefts from twenty-five to
fifty feet in depth. AS the eye follows the ravines
back until they are lost in the belt of forest that
stretches along the face of the mountain, it is at
tracted to the right and left by the varied shades of
green that diversity the swelling plains and deep
gorges. The clump of trees are grouped in every
variety of form and foliage, and each ravine and
hill side is clothed with bright and soft tints of
green and brown, while over all the soft clouds sail.
high in air, or sweeping the tree tops, fecking the
whole Landscape with alternate light and shade.
And in the blue distance, high in air, rises the
snow-clad outline of Mauna Kea. The cliffs are
covered with the puhala, whose long leaves (%lauhala)
thatch the branches thickly. Each waterfall has a
character of its own, and as we draw near to them
on each in-shore tack, their beauties are displayed
in a thousand varied forms. Numerous caverns
break the shore-line, and the blue waves roll into
their gloomy depths, filling them with hollow sound.
and sending up showers of bright spray and foam.
Scars on the steep cliffs show where the late earth
quake has dislodged masses of earth, leaving their
faces bare of vegetation, while at their base is
heaped up the debris of the fall.
HAKALAU GULoH
- ar cIlzl III 49,.
amongst which are the cocoa-palm, overshadowing
the school-houses and native cottages that nestle
close to the shore. From this point the cliffs de-
crease in height, honey-combed as usual with caves,
giving a wild look to the coast line. Last night,
being near Makahanaloa point, the wind left us, and
our helpless schooner rocks idly on the CLASSY swell.
The school-mastera and G. leave us, and in the ships
boat gain the shore. We can just manage to make
out with a glass that they have found a couple Of
horses, and now they wave US I" goodbye" as they
disappear ON their way to Kaiwiki.
Thursday morning, we are at anchor
IN HILo BAY.
The picturesque little town lies spread out before us,
and while leisurely making ready to go ashore, we
often pause to admire this charming view. The
wide crescent of green that embraces the still waters
of the bay is characterized by the tropical nature Of
its trees and shrubs, and where the gentle wavelets
break on the sands, a fringe Of foam is cast against
the rough black rocks that here and there stud the
shore. The air IS 1ul OF n delicious 6oftneSS, IN
keeping with the quiet of the scene, while the white
houses and brown roofs Of the town show pleasantly
through the screen of green. Reaching the shore,
we are cordially welcomed by every one we meet,
and in a short time feel at home" in this beauti-
full spot.
Meeting the school-master on the road, and salts
flying him that our comfort has been ensured to us
by his brother, our little plans for the next day or
two are made, and albeit sicered slightly from the
original programme by the announcement of the
breaking out of volcanic fires from one of the an
cient craters on Mauna Los. Nothing could happen
in better times, We are here 10 see and report just
such events, and we hail, as an suspicious omen of
the success Of our trip, this Introductory scene.
THE MEMORY OF THE BATH
That we enjoyed this morning will ever remain with
us. Not only was the water delightfully."- cool and
soft. but there was such q quantity Of it. Imagine
to yourself, Mr.. Editor, a capacious tank built level
with the ground, and enclosed so that it formed one
half of a neat house. Into this tank rushes a
Uoiume of clear sparkling water, spreading out thin
and transparent, falling with a musical ripple and
gurgiing sound of happiness into the dark pool,