New-York tribune., 1871-07-29

ITIES OF MARQUErPE-BASALTIC CLIFFS AND
SUNSET GLORIES.
DULUTH, MINI, July Ell might have com
menced at Blilo this possible OF lotors for dur
Ing or days do1y there, gonia goutlemsn OF tho
place took down The Niagara River 10 modest little
vagc-nay it was merely sawnill with two or three
adjoining houscs--on tho Canadian shore. whore We
found thus far the iiyl Of trip 1t was cellar
al ordinary family cellar. with a floor Of smoothly
pounded concrete rough abos whcreOn lay great golden
rolls OF butter, and closets dmly visible In The
dushy light There bread was brought to u.s. ana
cheese. aud finally se and each was perfect In ia kh1
The butter had just the consistency OF scuptors clay
but tho oi0r OF white clover and tho flavor OF new III
bers. tho bread-but good bread oan mover he ade-
ouaty described; tho cheose snethor and nspid
old and pungent; and the ale ohecred but not IN
ebrated. Wo all asked ourselves in the words OF th)
lamentod Artemus: "Why IS this thus" Why Is IT,
that in that modest Canadian cellar each thing was
wholly and exqusitey good "a it surely 10 not In any
single American collar along the whole frontierf Why
that tho simplest OF all fare which We there enjoyed
still remains groenest spot I'm Memorys long waste OF
sodden biscuits and tough beef5ieaks and indescrbabe
Coffee which have triyersed slnCe theni do not
forget tho charming hospitality OF tho Buffalo club
house. Grand Island; bat our memorable cellar was
open 20 all and is no phenomenon among people who
have brought the Atlantic less osentiouS luxury
but far more healthy appetite AMI solid sense OF comfort
than we, their staggering kindred.
Farewell TO good bread and butter! We sighed, when
embarked at BliiO; and 80 it pcOYcd TO be--"lth
tho exception of excellent corn broad on the steamer
But all knew from long experience. that therO Is no
good puJc fare in the West more than there Is IN
the East tho lake smooth. the skies were pro-
pltous reced poetry (and this is aim marvel fel
softly and wecomey upon tho and hearts of all the
content fresh breezss and t1e silence Of the waters
descended upon hardly yet parged Of the memo
res of brutal Rioters faces and the ugie"t OF Orange
scarfs covering pucky hearts and we came to Glove
land In u happy mood. prepared 10 find the boastol
Euclidst-as dd-the most beautiful IN tho country
Now-YorE's Fiith-ayo with 5tewdcts hotel. aud Pha-
delpha's Wanutst.. with Mrs s monastery, and B1s
tons Beacon St. with all its extension. cannot equal the
effect this single avenue. where there Is no pomp no
sameness striving TO outdo onos negabors' nut
every where taste elegance variety and the nooler lux
ury OF trees aud flowers. Then osme Detroit where wo
lost eight hours. waiting for Money! circumstance
which no,ioo because few days afterward, Money
st0rmed for whole day because the steamer fingered
half hour waiting for Literature and Trout Lltera-
ture however asserts an independence IA far above
Moneys comprehension as the writing OF an edt)rai s
above pork packing; and the latter Oa,nd none the
less because ho IA too stupid TO know what he says.
And of bad cooking 30 say also Of rampant aud tr
umphant vulgarlty: "NIst This DO always thusi"
However let mo rather address myself 70 those fea-
lures of our Journey wh0h will bett3r hlrmoniLo with
our holiday mood For this Is, purely and wholly,
Summer holiday have entered upon "a recreation
of body and BRAN. and propose 20 write only as dist
and in such mood and manner as the passing moment
shall dictate. eavo sohermai lines and such things TO
tho undauntod Disturncu, who Ike tho whts-hared
shadow of Tithonus, il roaming through these empty
halls. the "maroh Of empire" to -, of tho - -.
and the development OF our inernl resOurccs tObut
matter: all those parts 10 be filed by
body lis not every day that author caloI away
from the Gothic BbIe OF Uldas and the Par;irai Of
Wolfram Won EsChenbIch. % ~ to Lake Winnipeg; and
perhaps whrl away from that remote and yenori1e
period into tho newest and most irrevorent Present.
may best wear tho httcr's motley garment 50 you
must only expect statistics. incidentally careful de-
scrption where tho subject profound moral
izng or prophecy. never II can help Il; but genuine
reflection Of the Aeeting days. always.
think we all accepted tho canal across the s. Clair
Flats as wise enterprise. the river beyond pleased u
because the banks 40 TO Co foet bi5h, and at Port
Huron and Sarnia the signs of growth and activity are
ALI the more agreeable because the broad dark desOate
waters ofIake Huron loom Immediately in their rear
Heaven has favored VA with smooth water all the way
from Bulle to Duluth: have hl1 the loyelie3t var
city of sung. and shadow the lakes and shores yet
my deliberate verdict Of the general character OF the
voyage that it is very monOtonOus and depressing
There IL all he loneliness OF m.dOcean without it, in
finite and various grandeur s farrelching horizons s
suggestions of space and power. Tho shore outlines
where they not low. generally ropetltOas OF
the forms, and when skirt the land more nearly
we see either a very savage and forJidlnS aspect o!
Nature sometimes made hi1eOus by burnt fOre5.,)
that first transition stage OF settlement which is hardly
more attractive it gives Man. to De sure but nothing
OF the ultimate beauty of his conqucst On entering the
strait which winds through Islands to the Sault St Marie
the most striking thing we was noble bald eagle
wheeling above the ragged tops OF the rwOOded shores
Lake George an expansion Of the st Marys River. ia
ridiculous msnomer If any finCied there was re-
sembanco to It's famous namesake The hills of the Lake
Superior region aud northwestern Canada here appear
az distant gloomy walls, somewhat cheering because
they substitute dfsrant kind OF m0nOtony. Where the
river narrOws again we touched at ClurChs Landing,
really picturesque spot tho resi- enoe os Old settler
who hGs partly civilized colony OF Obwly Indians,
without the aid of whisky. and employs them in
gathering wild raspberres, which he converts into %
annual tun5 OF jam, and exports MI and Mrs c. re-
ccvod with hearty hospitality during the few minutes
of our stay Ipucked head OF red clover in the ia
closure before their cottage and stuck into my button
hole with az much satisfaction If it had been
Twilight was falling when we reached the y III. This
is another spot which stauds out distinct with its own
broad and wild character, from oil the scenery which
preceded It. The delicious fish Of these lakes are usually
moro easy to be had everywhere else than upon the
steamers which traverse them (lt least, 80 am in
formed: but more fortunate stock OF white
fish was taken board, aud while our steamer rose
through the double locks twelve OF party took the op
portunty TO shoot the rapids In Indian thought
OF the lines OF Lucreus and stood shore. which the
daring vOyageurs informed quite exciting and
moro comfortable than to slide personally down the
watery staircase But how cheerful aud companionable
the Of the sau after the savage silence OF the
lakes and island-channes! We passed the Pictured
Rocks at distance Of ve six miles after sun
rise the next morning. The Great Portal was visible
TO the naked eye. aud tolerably distinct through an
opera glass; but view necessarily imperfect
the rocks being dwarfed IN effect by the wooded ranges
in the rear-that I do not venture 10 pronounce an
opinion have suspicion that the rocks nothing
remsrkabe their published hight tends to confirm 1t
and the exrdyagance Of the early visitors probably
arises from the fact that they looked up 70 those tinted
walls from birch canoe instead OF from tho hurricane
deck OF large steamer. Practically. Maa en- add