Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-09-30
THE WORLD OF FASH ON.
OCTOBER ATTRACTIONS.
What Is to he Worn this Fall and
Winter. and HOW.
HE styles i'm Dresses. CIoaks. Hats,
Bonnets, Furs and Gloves.

TIRE SEASON.
New York is filing up rapidly; one begins &c
see accustomed faces upon Broadway, in tho
Park, and on the avenues, and in a very short
time We shall have settled down into the routine
which the summer months pleasantly, or dis
agreeably Interrupt. With every recurring
autumn New York changes its aspect TO the
occasional visitor. 1t is constantly knowing ut
town." Broadway, below 10th street, is nc
longer considered hit for a promenade, and
indeed is hardly practicable for one, the great
warehouses constantly encroaching further upon
its formerly fashionable precincts and taking
possession, as is their custom, of sidewalk and
street, a. well as buildings All the great bust
ness houses have gone up town, and the very
best thing Mr.. Stewart could do with his new
residence on 34th street would be 70 turn il into
a grand dry goods palace, for il is too large To
live in and take any comfort; and already ladies
grCmble at the Broadway and 10th street build
ing as being so far 'dOwn town"
All the signs are in favor of a gayly, social,
and active business season, less extravagant,
perhaps, than any which have lately preceded
II; but BEAUTIFULLY busy, and much more gene
rally festive i'm its character. Display is in dis
grace; it is considered bad style, and a sign of
rottenness. The leaders at the national capital
are not ostentatiOus either in their dress or en-
tertainments. The dress of the wives of the
great moneyed men OF New York is generally
characterized by simplicity, almost amour ting
TO severity, so that in the absence of Parisian
domination we have neither example nor incen-
1--WE TO the popular profusion and barbaric
luxury which marked the reign of the Empire
ENTERTAINMENTS.
One OF the most noticeable evidences of the
change which society is gradually undergoing
Is the falling OF in the numbers of large parties
that were formerly given during season. Ten
years ago everybody who had house gave one
to clear of their obligations. Now they are only
given for purpI sc, or at least have nominal
object, apart from the necessity of returning a
compliment. Christmas parties, wedding par
les, birthday parties, and the like, are still in
vogue, but the stupid, brainless evening party,
without any object but bringing a miserable
crowd together, will soon, il il to be hoped, be
among the things that were. Receptions" are
the modern substitute for parties, and the in
elusive title OF the grand gathering Of the five
hundred as well as the modest dozen round the
corner.
Literary women and wives of literary men
are endeavoring TO follow the lead of Alice Cary
and institute regular literary receptions; but
they can hardly be as successful as hers, be-
cause so few possess the unselfishness, the hu-
manity, the Inconsistencies OF personal merit
the broad spirit of universal kindiiness aud char
ity which made her extend as warm and hearty
a welcome 10 the lowest as to the highest, and
care less TO acquire distinction for herself than
give pleasure ID others.
THE PROSPECTS, FOR OPERA.
There viii be no lack of the musical element
this winter, if we may judge from the number
OF European celebrities who, attracted by ru
mors of Missions wonderful monetary success
have flown hither to reap a little Of the golden
harvest. For the past two seasons We have had
dearth OF opera. The prospect is now that We
shall be Lucia-d. and Amna-d, and Leonora-d
to death, and that, instead of oyerstocked purses
and large investments in real estate on the part
OF the ambitious Cantatrices, there will be. by
the time Lent arrives, weeping and wailing and
CRASHING OF teeth Extremes meet. We have
bad as yet no decided musical or theatrical SEN
sation-if we except Divorce" at the Fifth
Avenue Theater, which is a success, not a sem
sation. The Fifth Avenue has become the
drawiDg-room theater of the town, and has taken
the place of Wallack's as the representative of
society. Parepa-Rosa, with an excellent com
pany, VIII have commenced a series of English
operas before this letter reaches you; but we
must wait till the third week in October foI
Missions debut at the Academy, Boston claim
ing her first.
FALL BoNNKTs.
lie opening OF costumes and winter STYLES in
bonnets has taken place since my last, but has
developed nothing particularly new or striking
The shapes are the same as last season, with this
dlfference:-that those that were larger and con-
lined to the exclusives then are becoming gen
eral row; while the exclusives, in the absence of
Partisan novelty, have nothing to take their
place. As Is always the case in fashions the
latest ideas of the previous season simply become
more pronounced during the succeeding ones
until they reach pitch of absurdity which com
pels total change of base, then something else,
possibly the opposite extreme, takes its place
Last year the trimming began to be placed upon
the back of the CROWN this year is piled higher
upon it, and makes the top of the head look
nearly an inch higher than the forehead. The
popular preference is for high-crowned hats OF
black straw, with brim turned up rather more
at the sides than in front, and trimmed with
alternate folds of soft satin, finished oros grain
bows and long ends, surmounted by plume OF
ostrich feathers or a bright-colored wing and
black aigrette. All black hats and bonnets are
always ladyhke, and therefore popular among a
large class who cannot afford TO follow the
fancies, but must wear the same hat or bonnet
with different costumes. Trimmed with good
feathers and thread lace. they are really distin-
guished and are only vulgarized BY the colored
aigrettes which some milliners recommend 10
match dresses and trimmings.
The close fOlm with high narrow crown and
small somewhat faring brim, ornamented on the
inside by Tuche of white tulle or black lace
and popularity calledlthe - cottage bonnet" i
the prevailing style, but divides the suffrage
with the round soft crowned 6eret, the CROWN OF
which is mounted somewhat higher, while the
6rim and curtain are correspondence deeper
Both these styles fit easily TO the head. and are
adapted 10 the present arrangement of the hair
which is rollodhigh in front, and faces the brlm
Only round hats descend upon the forehead, aud
those much less than formerly.
DRESS BONNETS.
There are two kinds OF dress b0nnets, one in
tended for >cere monious visiting toilettes, the
other for wedding receptions and evening wear
The first are the bOnnets composed of several
different tones or tints TO match the dress; the
second reyiyes the graceful white bonnets OF
several years ago, but with flashes of color which
While detractlng from the softness and purity OF
the effect, admits of less strictness in the details
of the costume. Few Of the first are exhibited
among the display styles, because they are
adapted to special costumes, and are generally
Moreover, genuine artistic taste and skill are
required to blend these niceties Of material so a.
70 produce an expression as well as an effect.
TONES IN MATERIALS.
Some of the largest houses show new fall
fabrics, faiHes, sdtines, cashmeres and empress
cloths, for example, but particularly faiIles In
samples, consisting of three shades Of each color
These are arranged in a book, and from them
ladies can judge accurately of the effect pro-
duced by the perfect blending, and how far the
product of such a combination viii be likely to
suit the individual taste. Cypress greea, Van
Dyke brown, cendres de roses, (arlies de roses,)
and the cameo tints are decidedly the most fanh-
ionable. When the care, taste and skill are de-
manded from the modiste, which these costumes
require, then dressmaking really becomes an
art, but there are few, even among the most pre-
tentiOus or professional dressmakers, who de-
serve to be called artists In these exouisitsly
toned and shaded costumes a fine combination
Of tints and of different materials conveys the
impression OF beauty and completeness without
any display, and therefore is only appreciated
by persons of really high taste and refinement
Ii opens a new field, however, TO those who ad-
mire the subtleties OF dress.
NEW PAIL COSTUMES. e
1t would be laughable, il il were not 20 sad
and pitiful, to note the general helplessness and
utter dependence of women upon authority for
what they shall wear. Such an idea as that they
have Judgment and taste Of their own; that they
know best Just what would suit their needs and
cir AZ rcas and that thew have ynueh