New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1871-06-20
THE FASHIONS.

Some of the most exqHisite unu expensive
toilets Of the were prepared for Manhatans far
49,, h Ia be exhibited at the Jockey Club Of the
as, voe Apen dipped In beams Of light could scarcely
A. radt TO come of the elaborate and beautfully-ar
ned toilets that cated before the eye like brilliant
pen descriptions be made very
complicated and varied are the devices
Of La Mode. She modstes are as inexhaus-
fbe as disracting and as unfathomabe as the Eeusy
man fable or the riddle of the sphynx. fashionable
costume is q delicious ntlange Of puffings crosscut
tuckings ruches, rules, bows and Fittings; kilt plat
ings side platings frnges lace, and founcings With
the perfect taste characterizng American costumes
in these days of tint succeedsint shade upon
shade beautifully toned down and sofened into just such
charming toilet graeed lovely lady at the races
delicate pou de sole skirt was garnished with
four rues OF the overlapping; the upper skirt
headed by fluffy ruche Of rich purple. very deep
poonaise miracle Of perfection In contour, and,
departing from the usual custom OF costumes, was
trimmed differently with wide black lace, laid over pur-
pie knOted fringe. small postillion basque was at
tached to the belt, correspondngly trimmed; large
bow with ends, and similar bows concealed the folds OF
the looping The purple ruchng which was placed as
the heading OF tthe black lace continued from the
poStion up the front OF the waist Stimulating vest,
the front being Of the darker shade The bonnet was or
white chip trimmed with black lace and clusters Of vo
let's Another was composed Of the real India pongee Of the
paest 6cru, by beautiful brunette. very deep
combining the paits at intervals Of two inches apart
headed by rayeled .ruchiDg soft and fluffy as floss
silk. The overskrt very bougdnt and long, falling
in straight uness at the back draped at the sides to
form the apron 'front.' and fastened with bows and ends
OF the same material The open sleeves were pulled TO
the elbow The basque vestfront deep points,
rounded away the hips descending at the back into
small position. The coquetish white gypsy hat was
trimmed with crepe de eh6ne scarf of that peculiar
shade of golden brown corresponding 80 admirably with
buff with cluster OF ostrich tips on the SIDE Tie para
sol was OF the tint and material as the dress.
Yet another far more elaborate costume was OF eiel
blue silk. The trained skirt was garnished with cres-
cents Of pulled silk at short intervals edged white SIX
ruchngs overad by black lace. These crescents around
the skirt were continued up the 'front.' defined in shape
by rows of black lace the white ruchngs
The basque waist trimmed to match 1.-the noWlng
sleeve disclosed underdrapery Of wide Valencennes
dainty gypsy hat m6tdnge OF black lace, due
cr{pe de eh6ne and moss roses, pink and whe an ex-
quisite Chany shawl, and neck-tIe OF finest Valen-
ciennes, through which cleaned, like rosy cloud,
pink cr6pe de chene scarf completed this diStgue cos
tune. Superb black gros grains with black lace over
white charming French organdies OF gray and OF ashes
of roses trimmed with r1es edged with Valencennes;
delicate grisae silks, upon which black ana white lace
and feathery ruchings artticaly arranged; ee-
CANT costumes Of black cashmere; draped oYerskrs OF
black velvet green grosgran or shaded brown White
silk serge, elaborate with lace hOuncngs; coquetish
gpsys perfect jdrdtniresj dainty parasos OF every
tint and sye-altogether combined to make an ensemble
not easily forgotten likely TO meet again until
Autumn brings back the absentees.
The seaside and country-house dresses, noticed
once before as placed upon exhibition quite sue
cess These Cretonne costumes in Marie Antonette
STYLE Of furniture chintz, large figured, with pretty
grounds Of olive green buff and gray sometimes black
are trimmed with black velvet and gupure lace. The
oyerskirt very much trimmed and extremely 6ouGdHt
or they are made with plain skirt and bars of black
velvet placed perpendicularly or dlagonally with
shortfronted basque deepening in the back and Louis
XIV sleeves These CreOnne suits caprices of fashion,
should be very cautiously INDUCED nonly indeed, by
those "to the manner borD,v who can impart to any
style Of dress and cOarsest material an air disfngu
furniture chntz upon some forms would be but furn
ture cbintz withal, yet upon Others the quaint
device would but recall visions OF the Court
beauties of the loved and lovely Queen
OF France Marie Antoinette costumes are fast
becoming regte very beautiful ball dress for the
Summer season is delicate white silk trimmed with
houncngs of tue overaid by black thread lace draped
high the sides with bows of rosecolored ribbon edged
with black lace. The little basque trimmed correspond
ingly the head-dress pink feather-tips and small
roses. Another composed Of white silk trimmed
with elegant wide DucesSe lace the overskirt was eie
blue te with the lace. apronfron and very 6Og
FAINT fastened each side by clusters OF blue cornower
and white marguerites, pulled tulle berthe, with
drapery Of lace and bouquet onthe corsage Of the
flowers; long blue plume for the hair which must be
raised over cushion in 'front.' nterminged with flowers
Sleeves for evening dresses are very short little masses
OF lace and flowers. One ball dress deserves men
ton among the multiplicity preparing at distinguished
Emporium of Fashion, composed OF skyblue silk,
trimmed VITA six pinked founces the oyerdress ana
breees are Of white moussellne enadine, edged with
wide white DueheSse lace and charming shell trimming
Of blue silk. Blue sashes con1ne the draping at the
sides The dtc0k corsage, plain and round, is finished
off with plating OF the white mousseline and an
edgng of lace. The bretees also garnished with lace
and ornamented the shoulders with fiat bows OF blue
ribbon. Clusters OF small roses for the hair complete
this dainty and becoming costume.
Foulalds are in great demand this season lovely
costume is designed Of gray fOulard dotted with yoets
fnnumerable rufes ornamented the skirt over which
the overskrt looped high with violet ribbons Fou
lards in fwn color aud mauve ore rued and worn with
white grenadne or Swiss overdresses very much orna
mented with rosettes bows and sashes Of ribbon Shaded
toilets are attracting great attention. One worn by
distinguished Southern lady, composed Of three shades
OF violet specimen Of exquisite taste and artistic
beauty The underskrt Of that velvety purple the
pansy's leaf. trimmed with two founces OF lighter
shade full ruchng at the heading made Of the three
shades. The very graceful and disngue poOnaise
of a brighter mauve trimmed with an Acknowledgements
deep fringe in which united all Of the nts of the
dress. The gypsy bonnet accompanying this costume
was Of fine Leghon trimmed with puings, and scarf OF
mauve crepe de cee at the left side cluster Of Parma
violets mingled with dark purple ostrich feathers.
Square walls Of black dotted lace bordered grace
fully thrown the bonnet the broad brimmed
hat in true Spanish fashion Upon hats which, the
season advances fast taking the place of the tiny
gypsy bonnet flowers, feathers, and lace are used in
profusion upon the left side of the high White
marguerites dotted upon black velvet exceedingly
fashionable; Also pale blush and tearoses nesting
in heath or gray messy foliage. For trimming straw
hats Of any shape delicate shades OF the pale new
green plum the faint gray OF twilight Durpng haze
and the soft purple Of the pansy in velvet and
grain offer charming contrast to the pearltinted
snowy Wilderness Of thestraw Bonnets can be and are
made by the most fashionable and wealthy Of bellies