Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1871-12-07
mo. l2.l
What Merchant Saw OF Europe.
THE ALHAMBRA, GRANADA, }
Friday, March Oath, II. I

went down the tree.lined and flower
adorned avenue, out of the gate erected
by Charles v. while he held such despoil-
ing sway here, across the river Darrow,
and among the devious foul streets of the
city, which, like many things terrestrial,
is the better appreciated when distantly
seen. We are abruptly ushered upon the
Cathedral, an irregular but majestic pile
cramped among the f.t-roofed houses.
1t is profusely ornamented in jaeper and
marble, the dome surmounted by artistic
! columns, in front of which are bronze
statues of the twelve apostles. A chapel
Of gothic design adjoins the main temple,
aud thither we wend our way. A shay
ed-pate, sour-faced Spsniard throws the
bolts and swings the ponder us doors of
what is known IS the Royal Chapel.
which has about its entrance walls num-
her of old pictures and abundance Of
priestIy psrsphernalia. The chapel has
gitded and very fsnciful nave with an
image of the Virgin Mary dressed in flow
ing satin robe. Judging by this statue.
the adorable Virgin was a Spanisrd. We
are led to glass case and are sbewn q
gold box chsstely carved-s thing of great
besutv.-but what of the boxs Ah how
many engressipg feelings, and what his
toric interest clusters about that box. We
look to mediate, then gaze to ponder
again. This was the box which contain
ed Isabella's crown.jewels Of great price.
Nor was that all the history of this golden
jewel case. The box and the jewels Isa-
bella handed to an italian mariner, say
ing, "Sell them to bny ships" Christopher
Columbus was that mariner, and the ships
sailed great deep to make known to the
OldWorld the existence of our own beloved
land We now proceed to immense mar
BILE tombs surmounted by ghastly forms
in marble repose. Life-sizs upon what
would seem the lids of the tombs rest the
figures Of Ferdinand and Isabella. Crazy
Jane and her husband Phillip the Hand
some. These pieces ofsoulpture and the
tornhz in general are the product of no
roe.n genius.
The chisel hss done vest work, but all
in all it has grave stone cast and is
more repulsive than imposing. la the
hands of our shorn leader. great keys un-
lock great door and permit access to the
vault. Not a very pleasing promenade,
assure yon, and now large candles eeud
oF1 1;ohE fnt fhp
blaoknesa of darkness reguant in this
oHarnel house. Now are we in the pres
enoe of illustrious dead, for the forms
pictured in marble above us, lie smoul-
derinv to dust in these uncouth lead
eu c. fins. Such is glory-Dust! We
are only too glad 70 pay the fee demand
ed for the mouruful exhibition, and hast
en- to Daylight and to fresh air. We are
beset by beggars at each street corner,
and numbers follow us pleading piteously.
Shopping in Spanish city is of that va
riety requiring deal of Christian chari-
ty, for the tradesmen generally expect TO
t4ke half they ask. Last evening we
wandered about the old palace under the
soft dreamy light of a new moon. We
summoned all of the romance possible to
orr natures yet failed to endorse the SEN
timent of that Arab poet, who has said OF
il, ga palace of transparent crystal
those who look at it imagine it to be the
OCEAN. Ny pillars were brought from
E len, nv garden is the garden of Para
disc Of hewn jewels are my walls, and
nv ceilings are dyed with the hues of the
wings of angels. was paved with petri-
fed flowers. and those who see me, laugh
and sing. The columns are blocks of
pearl by night; by day perpetual sun
shine turns the fountain to trickling
gold" Ruin that in part it ie, the most
casual observer will not fail to be i'm
pressed of the splendors and 1efinemente
Of Asiatic luxury which surrounded the
Moorish kings when they held dominion
over this presumed ,errestrial paradise
After the palace had been captured by
the Soanarda, it was maintained as
royal abode, and inhabited by Castilian
monarchs. Later Charles V. demolished
a portion Of the Moors' winter palace and
commenced on the same spot an edifce
intended to perpetuate his name with
those of ALBANIAN and Yusef Earth
quakes providentislly deferred its compile
ton and there under the soft luster of
the moon its massive walls stand monu-
mant of that desecrating despoiler.
When we returned to the hotel last
evening we found the cadaverous French
man inst srrived from Malaga. To-day,
with Joseph as oar leader, we have made
a complete and careful inspection of the
entire palace, and I would give freely
could purchase the power to describe ac-
ourateIv and in detail all that L saw
Follow us as best you can and let me pic
ture it simply and briefly as possible
Passing the palace of Charles V. we enter
MYRTLE Court With its harem bath ITO
"a feet, and perhaps five feet deep Gold
fab are swimming about ia the limped
water. which our csdaverous Frenshman
thinks very bad taste. The arabesque
traoery on all sldes, which L oohoeh'o ~
be the very model of grace and exquisite
uess, he thinks not so fine as some be has
seen. Already he has pronounced the
Alhambra a bumbug, the works 30 much
iaealistic and Of go little practical utility.
II you want journey through the Al
hsmbra literally spoiled take with you
some such matter of fact spirit who can't
accent ANYTHING short of indisputab'e
proof, aud is ever ready to introduce that
generally unweloome guest detraction.
Pope has expressed 1t mildly
~sx With faint praise, assent with civil leer,
:" ~i.ho4s sneerinv, teach the rest to sneeT,
va - gound, aud yet afraid to strike,
Nhnng fsalt. and hesitate dislike"
TIKI, fish pond hedged about with
he glossy gre, - rh;,