The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1871-06-22
THE FASHIONS.


The seaside and country-house dresses.
noticed once before as placed upon exhibit
ton, are quite q success. These Oretonne
costumes, made in Marie Antoinette STYLE, of
furniture chintz, large, figured, with pretty
grounds of olive green, buff, and gray, some-
times black, are trimmed with blace velvet
and gulpure lace. The overskirt very much
trimmed and extremely 60u1dnt. or they are
made with plain skirt and bars of black vel
vet placed on perpendicularly or diagonally,
with short.fronted basque deepening in the
back and Louis XIV sleeves. These Cretonne
suits, caprices of fashion, should be very
cautiously INDUCED in-only, indeed, by
those ITO the manner born" who can impart
to any style of dress and coarsest material an
air dGStingue. A furniture chintz upon some
forms would be but furniture chintz withal,
yet upon others the quaint device would but
recall visions of the Court beauties of the
loved and lovely Queen of France. Marie
Antolnette costumes are fast becoming en-
Te9te. very beautiful ball dress for the
summer season is a delicate white silk
trimmed with hounces of tulle, overlaid by
black threadlace, draped high on the sides with
bows of rose-c -colored ribbon edged with black
lace. The little basque trimmed correspond
ingly, the head dress was pink feather tips
and small roses. Another was composed of
white silk trimmed with elegant, wide DI-
cheSSe lace; the overskirt was ciel blue tulle
with the same lace, apron-front and very
b0ufant, fastened on each side by clusters of
blue cornhower and white marguerites,
puffed tulle berthe, with a drapery of
lace and bouquet on the corsage of the same
flowers; a long blue plume for the hair,
which must be raised over a cushion in 'front.'
intermingled with flowers. Sleeves for even
ing dresses are very short, little masses of
lace and flowers. One more ball dress de-
serves mention among the multiplicity pre-
pairing at distinguished emporium of
fashion, composed of sky-blue silk, trimmed
with six pinked founces; the overdress and
bretelles are of white mousseline grenadine,
edged with wide white Duchesse lace and a
charming shell trimming of blue silk. Blue
sashes confne the draping at the sides. The
deoollete corsage, plain and round, is finished
off with a plating of the white mousseline
and an edging of lace The bretelles also
garnished with lace and ornamented on the
shoulders with fiat bows of blue ribbon,
Clusters of small roses for the hair complete
this dainty and becoming costume.
fouiards are n great demand this season,
q loYeIy costume is designed of grey foulard
dotted with violets, innumeTable rut1es orna-
mented the skirt, over which the overskirt
was looped high with violet ribbons Fou-
Iards in fawn color and mauve are ruflied and
worn with white grenadine or Swiss over
dresses very much ornamented with rosettes,
bows, and sashes of ribbon. Shaded toilets
are attracting great attention. One worn by
a distinguished Southern lady, composed
of three shades of violet was specimen
of exquisite taste and artistic beauty. The
underskirt, of that velvety purple on the
pansy's leaf, was trimmed with two flounces
of lighter shade, full ruching at the head
ing made of the three shades. The very
graceful and dtStangue polonaise was of
brighter mauve, trimmed with an elaborately-
made deep fringe, III which were united all
of the tints of the Dress The gypsy bonnet
accompanying this costume was OF fine Leg
horn, trimmed with puffings, aud scarf of
mauve crepe de chene;' at the left side clus-
ter of Parma violets mingled with dark purple
ostrich feathers.
Square wells of black dotted lace bordered
are gracefully thrown over the bonnet, or
even the broad d-brimmed hat, in true Spanish
fashion. Upon hats which, as the season
advances, are fast taking the place of the tiny
gipsy bonnet, flowers, feathers and lace are
used in profusion upon the left side of the
high crown. White marguerites dotted upon
black velvet are exceedingly fashionable a'oo,
pale blush roses and tea-roses Nesting in
heath or gray mossy foliage. For trimming g
straw hats of any shape delicate shades of the
pale new green, plum, the faint gray of
twilight or purpling haze, and the soft
purple of the pansy in velvet and
to the pearl-tinted or snowy whiteness
of the straw. Bonnets can be and are
made by the most fashionable and wealthy of
our bellies at really very trihing cost, but
others again rather like to confess to having
paid $40 for an untrimmed hat, and $40 and
$50 for one trimmed with tiny scraps of rib
bon and lace and tips of feathers. NanpOTte,
we are in an age of progression. For eques-
triennes, hats are found in lower crowns and
broader brims, of beaver, silk, or brown and
black straw. A veil of lace, or scarf of crepe
de cAene, with the ends tied negigently and
floating back, is preferred to gauze or grena-
dine. And thus, hats, for the nonce deposed,
reign again. One passes coquettish Leg
horn, with its airy lghtness and floating feath-
ers, or piquant turban, blushing with roses,
involuntarIly looking for dimpled youth; and
behold the ghost of ones grandmother But
eternal youth dwells on the plaza, and Ponce
de Leon lived not in vain.
Among the indispensables are marvels of
lace, knots, ruffies, embroidery, and braiding,
made up into the most coquettish little aprons
\ imaginable, with graceful bretelles and Gun.
\ ming bibs of silk, trimmed with lace and pas.
semeategie in black grenadine, embroidered
with all the fanciful designs aud gorgeous
oriental devices we find in the Jackets anG
mantle capes" of that style. For simpler
aprons nothing can be prettier than those
} made of Victoria lawn or fine barred muslin
I with Hamburg work made into bretelles
\ which, passing down from the shoulders
I in a rounded sweep, form pockets
Handsome travelling costumes are made
| of foulard serge, cameo, and all silks of quiet
I neutral tints Complete overdresseI serving
as protection, are made of ecrU linen, also
brown linen, and the Yokohama an un