Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1871-08-04

l an seated in the WIDOW oi "''e' q" -
,;.v n Naples. and wish I could describe t
voD how leautiful the scenery is The window
and blinds sre swung vide open Ihey mSA
tbr vipdoss Ike doors here in this lovely elm
ate BeoE me il q basy street skirting sloni
the sbsie Of the bsy, whose lovely blue expAns
e snresd cut before ne, studded with vessels
huge English men Of wsr-Mediierraneai
steamers that ply TO Egypt and Gibraltar, SAL
lar vessels that mske the circuit Of the world
little shallops gsily skimming about the osy
row boats with pleasure parties making tn'
most Of the Leisure Of this lovely sabbath 81
ternoon fishing skifs with their sNarihy SnD
half naked osrsmen. Beyond and scross in'
culf The Graceful contour Of Nesuvius If
outlined against the light blue say some
clouds are lowering shout its crest, ioI 'ns ga
Is not quite oleir and upon the summit res's
another cloud. fan ike in its shape, its narroN
point lust touching the peak, snd sTresulng
OF: its alis;euiDg white, gradually becoming
DINNER as it widens until il Is lot II tne may
armament above Its smoke coming from the
hollow Of the mouDtain-fron the molten
deptbs q the earth,-for the volcano Is ID erup-
hon. Along down the sides and upon the 9th
or lover resk its smoke If alec pouring out ana
when the ari.lisut Italian sun mas sunk behind
the hin Of s.. Elmo, and the evening darkness
comes on. and the smoke turns from its brilliant
white "a disu.al black. and lurid brown and
I'd. while the frc squirting out Of the huge
crater 81 the summit and the glistening hery
lava running down the mountain side, tel. OF
the terrible forces thar are ST work deep down IN
the bowels Of the earth And of 70 the right
where the mountain slopes down to the sea lies
the hsK di,eatozbsl IS City Of the Plain
Pompeii. whose walls were buried sud whose 10
l.sbitan;s persisted iu the ashes thrown out Of
the boiling caverns Of Vesuyius more than
eighteen centuries ago.
Farther around to the right runs the rocky
and preeiritous shore OF the bsy, where lies the
romantic town made famous by Mrs. Stoves
Agnes OF Sorrento aud stil further on is the
precipi,ous. rursci and romantic Island Of
Capri with It's funny people, its d" blue groito
lie oranges. and It's donkeys that have added 90
the zsst Of many lays excursion made by
travellers 20 this ove-y land
/ came down from Rome last Thursday On
Friday went With some acqusiut'nces with
whom au travelling. to Pompeii Yesterday
We took A. excursion to Capri, snl tomorrow
We are to ascend Vesuvius
To-day hsve attended the services az the
Scotch Presbyterian church here. have never
realized the relief-the comfort the edidcatiou
Of cur simple and earnest snd sacred forms O.
worship as have in travelling in foreign c9un-
tries. where such services are rare and those IL
common vogue are 50 different Bu; the Eng
!sh snd Scotch are great church lovers, and
there is hardly place OF resort on the cont
nent where they don't have worship on the Sab
bath. And in msny Of the larger cities there Is
also an American service, so thst one who vsluer
such privileges need not be deprived Of them.
The place where I am writing is extremely
pleasant, delicious breeze is coming in from
the bay-cool and refreshing, for il Is already
hot here in southern Italy. / an up in the
fourth story. where air and view are move
charming than ! cSn describe-the day is g
lovely one and here is the place TO reSd, OF
think, or write OF rest, and yet there is such 8
din snd clamor and hustle in the street below
that nv thoughts Rld ny pen are greatly Dis
traetel from their purpose. Naples If ! believe
the uoisiest city in the world such shout
ing, screaming, rolhcking, gay, reckless, rot
Gus, uurestrained. and worse than all hlthy race
Of men / never saw. and to-day they are haY-
inr regular holiday. As ! write, people Of
every conceivable garb and manner are passing
along in the street below me and vehicles hides
cribsble and without number are rafting over
the pavement making Jarcon of voices and q
rafting Of wheels and hoofs on the pavement
that IS almost deafeniug Vehicles from s
princess equipage with foOtmen N gllded Nv
erv. 10 the Nespolitan two wheeled cart, drawn
BY lean and yet lively d0ukey,-snd contain
iuc dozen men. women and children, ragged
and happy, apparently enjoying their excursion
ten times more thar their royal road compan-
ions
As write Russian priest with bis funny
bat and long flowing robe snd beard, rides by.
A coachmAn j. whipping W his horse The
Neapoiitsns are all Jehus, and alwsys put thelr
stsed's, horses or donkeys into fierce gallop-s
gus5 Of wind comes and sends his tarIerea old
hat of INTO the street 70 be chased by lot Of
yelling street urchins. A company q scholars
iron military school are being psrsded out On
their afternoon walk by pair Of prim tutors
A little distance NJ the street are lot Of stals
or booths where oysters and other much les
unlatable shell fish, oranges, hcs. mscsroIi
and other things are exposed for sale and eat
en- ID the dir1ieEt way, by the diruest conceivs-
bic peope On the stone wall that skirts along
the pier some bare-footed. bareaeaded, hall
nsked. sunbrowned, ragged and tattered fisher
bows are stretched oct al length 10 the warn
Afternoon sun. And 50 they pass and siop,aDd SIT
and shout all in one general tumble. There gees
hack and the driver is cracking bis whip IKE 8
pistol, snd his horse il gallopiug at the top Of
his speed trying to keep pace with q little
straight legged donkey whose master as be sits
bouncing up and down on the top OF his little
cart. evinces no less skill in whip cracking than
his more diruifed rival There goes young
chap with little low phe:on and the cutes-
pair Of shetland ponies you ever saw, but
neither he. with his gay footnan, nor the prince
in the next equipsge, with glossy blacks Hno
driver snd footmsn in long blue coats. red vests
white half hose and top boots, look hall as IN
dependent a. their nearest neighhors On the
course both riding donkeys loaded with vege-
tables they are bringing into market, one sit
tinr - lady fashion" and the other a. one OF
those sailors lust rowing in from the English
frigate cut in the bsy, would ssy, tsrther astern
and poised half OF his side, with one leg
stretched out behind, As We boys used to sit on
our sleds and steer.
Such is a Nsples street scene on sunday
afternoon. But that Is on a fashionable street
in front Of the hotels where foreigners stay,
and which are kept passably olesn. The rea
Nsples street scene is in the center Of the Old
city. where are leagues Of long narrow crooked
lanes and alleys, not deserving the names Of
streets. 50 narrow, and with buildings 50 high
that one csu only see little narrow strip o.
sky above. 20 heaped up with filth tina ne pru-
dent stranger would dare to tread them for iesr
Of beng mirel So ehoked with crowds OF
soualid, filthy human beings that it is wonder
ful how a carriage can pass through without
running over them by the dozen. But these
streets are among the most interesting sights Of
Naples You hire carriage holding two for
sixty centimes. or twelve cents, and tell the
driver to take you TO the railway stSton through
the Straiadi Porto. and such a maze, such labv-
rintbs Of long dark winding streets as you 20
thruugh-there is something almost fearful in
the thought Of it with barely room for two
narrow carriages to pass, each house and shop
standing with the door open, and hardly
threshold to separate the private apartments
frem the public street People stepping outin
their doors or on the pavement for sidewalks
are unknown-drivinr Bargains, hagghng over
all conceivable wares except Whist would con-
duce TO cleanliness or Gecency.
A full description Of these streets would haru-
" be appropriate in polite conversation, nor
could silow myself here TO describe 1.-THE OF
the filth and the shocking indecency that one
must see Al every turn in these miserable guar
tiers. to say nothing Of the immortality nor the
becrarv that this losthsome condition OF
things breeds in society here. And such are the
descendants OF those VINO once ruled the world.
But in ny next l viii turn TO more sgree-
able subject and tell you somewhat Of the beau
iy and loyeliness of Naples. W. o. A
NV YoBK Tricks OF IRADE-street fruit
peddling is a precious business for humbag