New-York tribune., 1871-04-22
THE FASHIONS.
EASTER OPENINGS AND COSTUMEs-RECEPrI0Ns
BY MERCHANTS AND MILLIN ERS-NEW STREET
COSTUMEs-COLORs, STYLES, TRIMMINGS



PARASOLS-BoNNETS.
With the ending of the ashen sober weeks,
hearts renew their paptations and little heads their
calculations. The mercural nature OF woman springs
with reuvenated elasticity from the pressure OF the
Lenten Fast, and anon commences short season OF
metropolitan gayety. Thus hbrettos take the place o
prayer-boOks; everybody who is anybody mas oohe
penance sufficient in mortying the flesh; and contrary
too to the general ANIMAL custom of Easter openings
the weather is delicious.
Sweet, tendereyed fragrant Spring! The very men
ton of the dainty harbnger OF so many anucr
pated pleasures gives fresher zest 10 oAs'
enoe and blessed outlet from city conVentlohanues'
But Broadway and sentiment are antagohsue we
inhale the faint perfume OF violets, and wonder IL
yaaure Is 70 be fashionable; sunny skies and heecy
clouds produce but confused meidnge of coquettish
white gipsies and forgetmenos and so there are 50
many charming things TO gossip about so many NC"
things to chronicle that one pauses, in wofu perpeA'
not knowing what TO say first.
In France the leaders of fashion are endeavor
ing TO economic dress simplicity correspond
ing best with their late war. but with extreme ex-
travaganee prevails both in making up and In materials
Many and striking the changes from last year. our
uptown establishments have given grand receptions ior
the past few days. Throngng at the counters, fasho
able bellies gazed with ecstacy upon fabulous dainues
lacework intrcaces of poetical fancy wrought s'eI
by stitch in the airy fabrics, mouehors TOO e'eiV
for common use collars exquisite, onIy h' " W
cassed with est OF jewels sleeves costly O
model Of PhidiaS; superb silks in satueslue peau' H0
richer looms than wOve
The lishi-haed silks etsanareand'
shawls o, Oriental fragrance, whispering Oh 'e 'oe
far tente of Eastern harems ana bazars' sha"s ues
,inea for heir looms among growing "aristocrats;
LIGHTER SILKS heaped in artistic draping like the tintng
or clouds. one is smitten with sweet
bewilderment,
"Ippumerable Of stain and splendid dyes
As The tger-mOhs deep dsmask wings
Tn nlaner goods a multiplicity of materials is found
10 sut all purses. In coors the numerous family OF
grays are in pongees pOpns serge, chae, and alpaca
in green is the blue green, Nile green, and new green
OF a scky-yellow, grayish tn-the color OF yspepnc
frog-ugly yet fashion gives it an approving nod Not
least are the and beautiful brands of beaver mohar
and otter alpaca, so exquisite and plable III
make that of true artistic training prefer them
10 any other fabrics showing more advantageousy
their skill in classical drapery according to the present
STYLES. Everything is now so extremely oouUdnt that
all persons OF taste wisely ignore wiry and stif goods
The beaver mohar is not only of perfect black, but
hangs in just such graceful folds as the heaVest ana
most lustrous OF silks.
AT some OF the recent openings, elegant costumes
ranged high $3.50 and $500 Less expensive sold
from so s2OO and still less for from sos to $780, This
need surprise taking into consideration the
fact that sometimes much yards of silk are used
street, carriage full dress costume, to which
must be added the expense Of lace fringe and embrod
cry. There prospect OF decline in street costumes
We find them made up tastefuly than ever and in
marked avoidance OF all prOnonee colors and Styles
lovely shade of Oldfashioned genuine lilac exhi
bon and has been stereotyped upon the promen-
ade in polonaise with basqueback tightly fitting and
pointed the front all cut in piece, with low darts
skirt gathered with great fullnes at the back was
made small yoke piece, the shape of the basque
10 avoid spelling "the set" The skirt four yards
around side breadth only gored The skirt OF
he
back beneath waist and the for looping and
producing the extreme bOuTdnl effect, without which
ones toilette pdsSe lovely silk in two shades of
edft iait and deeper brown trimmed upon the
underskrt with deep box plating afulfrnged ruch-
ing laid upon the stitching contnng the plating,
permitting an inch of the heading above The
COseyftting pOonaise in China Grape Of the lighter
TINT, trimmed with the dark brown in silk, ruehing,
and heavy fringe. Fringe, thickly knotted, is
very fashionable A superb black silk was trimmed
with three marrow ru1fes, above three narrow bias
folds headed with black thread lace laid over
white silk This combination of black aud white
is very effective, and promises 10 be very much
patrOnized Several diStinGue silk costumes in drab
eeru lavender, and black were trimmed with
vaencennes lace also with uted rufes OF organdy and
Swiss Overland with black lace. An exquisite evening
costume in silk OF that indescribable color called
Moon-on-the-lake with train of enormous length. This
tint was worn with the paest, most shimmerng OF
green. mingled in the ruching houncng, oyerdress and
pufngs altogether producing costume ft for Undine
Another violet velvet made with court train, which
was trimmed with side plating and lined with white
satin. The front white satin covered and trimmed
ruchngs side psitings the apron front was ooped
very high square corsage trimmed with white satin and
velvet ntermixed, and finished off both at waist and
sleeves with rare and costly point lace.
In less extensive fabrics we find China silks soft and
wide fine twied foulards the Japanese and fine hair
striped silks beautiful made up OF the beaver
faGb blQ mo
the "Hazledean Cosaque," is closely fitting, with
reme long and full skirt 10 the cosaque very bouan
with vest front the trimming placed TO simulate deep
basque front. rounding at the back, costume
rather difficult for pen description yet very dtstngut,
the mOhair falling In rich and graceful folds where
IoOped at the sides This cossque either be made
into pointed basque behind butterfly bow be
placed at the back; the basque is becoming TO
stout figure. This trimmed with two bias bands
around the skirt edged with Tom Thumb fringe four
similar bands up the front; overskir necessary,
and cosaque is trimmed to match Sleeves nearly
all made half flowing arnholes should be large enough
20 fully accommodate the sleeve and the the
shoulders shorter than those of last year. Waists
longer.
Notwithstanding pque has fallen into slight disfavor
a. a favorite Summer fabric, many suits made and
exhibited and will doubtless find their admirers. The
repped pique is the newest and is very eaborately
braided embroidered, and trimmed with Cluny and
linen lace; also with kilt platngs edged with lace
Homburg rufies make pretty trimmings for all thick
white SUITS az well for the linens and cambrcs. On
buff linens the unbeached Cluny and guipure lace is
worn effectively. In linen costumes we find two coors
adopted with good effect they relieve the monotony-
the eer buff and darker brown. These are triumedtn
alternate rows Of kilt plating and ruies in bias
tucng fastened by bias bands stitched at either
edge and finished by perhaps, standing plated ruie
The costumes in linen, well pque designed the
same the mOhair and alpaca suits. Beautiful cos
tunes in Victoria lawn andswss are most eaboratey
made with rufies futed and trimmed with Valen-