Nashville union and American. [volume] (Nashville, Tenn.) 1868-1875, 1871-11-25
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-. Grade % q level 3 piece Of land ten feet
feet wide, running north. and south a dis
tan cs sun cielt for the length of the house.
Next plant durable posts on each side of
the lot. running north aud sonth the posts
being about four feet apart IN The lines,
and the lines being nine feet from centre to
centre of the posts. The posts are to be
cut to a level Of one foot eight inches above
| the ground surface. The walk in the
house is to be cut down two feet nine
inches below the surface, and is to be two
and half feet wide when boarded or ce-
mented. The next work IN the oder of
construction is thebuilding OF a watef4ank
for the purpose of generating bottom-heat,
and also heating the house. Procure slale
twelve by eighteen inches in size, the length
of the slate being the width of the tank.
Afrer the walk is dug, make the surface on
each side perfectly level and solid. Then
place rows Of brick on each bank, at right
angles to the walk, for foundation; the
length of there being eighteen inches,
the width of the tank, and the rows being
foot apart; so that each joint ofslate shall
have the support of brick underneath. Lay
the slate upon the brick piers, and cement
the joints with utmost care, using the very
best cement, mixed with an equal
quantity of pure sand. As the under sur
face is exposed TO the air, except the small
part which rests upon the brick at the joints,
heat is given of at the bottom of the tank
as well as the top. For the sides of the
tank lay single brick edgewise. This will
give depth of three inches for the water,
which is quite sufficient. Bed the brick
carefully In cement and also cover the in
side face. The top course of slate must be
laid and cemented with as much care as the
bottom in order TO prevent any escape of
steam. The posts being set for the sides,
nine feet from the centre of one side to the
0 her, allowing three inches on each side for
be radius of the post, the house will be
eight feet six inches wide in the clear, in
side. The rafters will be four feet ten inches
in length, having a perpendicular rise of
two feet two inches. As this house is TO
be permanent, it is cheaper and warmer to
have affixed roof with few trap sashes for
ventilation at the top. 1t will be noticed
that the amount of space not wanted for
growth is reduced TO minimum simply
a walk, and room for the head.
In this snug house there is no
lofty space on which to expend heat. The
water flows into the tank at a pipe, and
flowing completely around the house, en-
tiers the boiler through return pipe. The
hue runs the length of the house, and back
of the tank. The tables, which are three
feet below the lower edge of glass, giving
room for bed of sand three TO four inches
deep, are composed of slate for the purpose
Of giving durability, and also because this
material will secure a better bottom heat
than boards. On each side of the walk are
sliding shutters to let the heat pass from
the tank into the house. This will be found
necessary in cold weather, but only to a
moderate extent. The object is to keep the
feet warm and the head cool.
Mr.. Strong further says that after years
of trial and many disappointments
l have come to the conclusion
that the above simple and cheap
plan is nearly perfect. it only requires care
and the observance of few ofthe simplest
rules, TO propagate almost any known plant.
The eyes having been previously prepar-
ed and kept in light; dry, sandy loan, as
described in previous article, are planted
in the bed of sand, which is three to four
inches deep upon the slate table. They are
planted so as 10 slant at an angle of about
fOrty-five degrees, and be inserted TO such
depth that the eye shah be barely visible
after the sand is Watered and settled. They
should be put in an inch apart in the line,
and the lines two inches apart. After plant
ing, give good watering, in order that the
sand may be thoroughly settled; after which
avoid extremes of moisture or dryness.
Keep a steady bottom heat of about seventy
degrees, never allowing a variation of more
than ten degrees above or below this
point. Keep the temperature of the
house below sixty degrees at night, not
allowing it to rise above seventy in day
time. If the young plants are allowed to
remain in the bed four, five or six weeks,
gradually diminishing the heat until they
are somewhat hardened, the roots being
firm and vigorous, they may be transferred
from the bed directly to hot bed prepared
as the one described in former article, only
use from six to eight inches of manure in
this bed, plant the vines six inches apart.
As the weather becomes warm, the sash
may be gradually removed SO as the vines
may become gradually accustomed to the
winds and sun. After the saShes are re-
moved, leave the planks for a time as kind
of protection. In the fall the vines will
need all the air and sun in order to mature
as much of the cane as possible.
In November they may be dug and heeled
in beds five feet wide. When they, the
vines, are all in, cover the tops of the vines
with earth taken foot from the sides of the
bed. Cover the bed with boards or shut
tiers to prevent the winter rains from pene-
trating. They are left in this condition
until spring.
While the foregoing plan of Mr.. Strong is
undoubtedly a good one for propagating
most excellent vines with economy and
certainty, yet our rude manner of
cultivating the vine in Tennessee,
and our comparatively limited knowl-
edge Of grape culture would not
perhaps justify our fruit growers generally
in undertaking the propagation of vines in
this way. Neither do think it practicable
or desirable to introduce the plan Of raising
vines from seft-woOd cuttings.
The most simple and successful method
of propagating vines by new beginners, in
my Judgments by cuttings in the open air,
and by layering, which will be described in
the succeeding article. A. Cox.