Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-12-16
NEW YORK FASHIONS,
Opera and Rail Toflestes.
W HITB TULLK.

WHITE TULLK.
The gayeties attendant the visit OF the
Grand Duke Alexis brought out some notable
opera and bah toilettes. Loveliesi among these
Frightened by folds Of lustrous satin. Flat
trimmings, such a. row after row Of side pleat-
lngs, trim the trained skirts; the upper skirts
are double tulls, ingeniously folded 70 conceal
any defined edge, and draped by SPRAYS and gar
lands OF flowers; the low corsage has flower gar
niture, and sometimes rare old lace, such a. the
gossamer Maiine: ornaments it, Such dress
was worn At the Academy ball by the Marquise
de s. Mariana ct COragho, formerly Miss Gil
lender. 1t consisted, first, of a trained taffeta
skirt with fiounce of stiff pleatings to support
the skirt proper. Over this Is the Lyons tuIle
skirt, bOrdered with a wide ruche OF tulle, and
clusters o triple puffs dropping to overlap like
Inffies, with satin fold between each cluster.
These extended TO the knee. and the upper part
OF the skirt Is covered by misty drapery OF tnlie.
doubled, very boufiant behind. with many easv
folds in front draped by clusters and SPRAYS OF
great blush roses mingled with white liIacs. A
square court train Of tnlle, widely bound with
satin, Is added, and the low doube-pointed cor
sage has soft tuile drspery on the bosom ed red
with exquisite MalInes lace. The flower elus-
'ers are placed with graceful irregularity on the
cOrsage and skirts. The couture j. a rose clus-
ter just above the crown braid, with long SPRAYS
OF halt-opened buds AMI white lilscs dropping
among the long curls. Necklace of diamond,
with three stars pendant. White kid gloves
reaching above the elbow. Another fresh and
dainty dress of white tulle, worn by a fair vounp
hfu rucDe bordering the skirt, headed by
clusters OF pleated tulle fulls with satin folds
ana erect pleatings. BOudant tulle Over-skirt
showing no edge, but exIuisiteIy draped wifi
bouquets Of white Marguerites A third tulls
uress was worn at the opera by Madame Cor
ION, the wife of the Russian general on the
evening when the Duke and his suite were
present The trained skirt had six side pleatinys
OF doubled tulle, held down by wide nininr of
white satin. Over-skirt of white lace. looned
at the sides and behind by scarlet CeraniIims
and clusters OF gold balls. Low white silk
corsage with peasant waist of black lace. Bou-
quet OF scarlet leaves in front of corsage and on
the LETT shoulder. Scarlet velvet belt and Dos
tion bow.
wATTEAU DRESSES
Among the dresses that have been m ost talked
about are the Vatican costumes of failIe i'm
which three or four colors appear. This is one
OF W0rth's suggestions that our modistes have
carried out most tastefully. A Vatican dress
worn by blonde is of pearl rose pink and skv
blue faille. The front of the skirt shows pearl
colored petticoat with two bias fiounces draped
al the top with two aprons, the lower rose-color,
the upper blue, and both edged with wide Va.
ienciennes lace. The back of the skirt is quare
court train of blue faile, trimmed with many
rnifies. The corsage IL a blue basque with Louis
XIV vest of rose colOr, and jabot of VaIenci-
ennes. The palest tiuts are used in these dresses
in order to prevent striking contrasts One has
delicate China pink petticOat. a pearl-colored
train, and white velvet pleatings; another tri-
color dress has fesh-colored skirt Seyres blue
train and sash OF palest rOSe-colOr, tied with a
loop bow on the tournure, with one wide end
~
French gray, and a fourth. in Spanish colors is
a salmon skirt with sultan red train, trimmed
with black Spanish blonde. This fashion suy
gests an economical use of two dresses partly
worn, and a good way of refreshing skirts having
soiled front breadths.
SATIN DRESSES.
Some OF the richest bail dresses were of the
lustrous satns that are so beautiful by gas-light
one, OF water-green satin. had white VeniSe
point, a rare old lace, laid fatty on the skirt and
corsage; another, of pearl color. hal an over
sklrt OF Grape iisSe edged with fiounce OF round
point; rich dress, worn by an elderly Iaiy i.
or cafe au lait satin, edged with faile pu Is and
trimmed with Hounces and reveTs OF Chantiily
lace; an opera dress, worn BY a Young married
lady, is white satin skirt with mIuye tulIe
puffs to the knee, dotted with pansies, AMI an
o'er-sklrt OF mauye satin, with white tulle pu,fs
and Pansies; novelty is a trained polonai,e of
pale blue satin, low in the neck. and bordered
with white Marguerites, worn over q skirt of blue
failie; an amber satin, with Vatican p,eated
tram. is hounced with black Chantilly lace, and
mas cOrsage bouquets of pink rose-buds.
TARLATAN IND MUSLIN
WHITE tarlatan dresses were tastefulIy worn
by debutantes at the late festivities One ey-
ceedingly fresh and pretty. had four notched
rnches OF farlatan on the train, separated by
marquise putting. The bOuffant over skirt had
arnche on the edge, and was uraped by male
Dlne ostrich tips. The low cOrsage was basque
Oh tariatan over Swiss muslin lining. trimmed
with rnches, and with black velvet ribbon ar
ranged across the bust, and forming Vatican
bow with long ends behind. MOdistes furnish
- III.
err or feathers, for $50; white tule dresses elab-
orately made, but without flowers or the silk
unt!er-skirt, are 800
White muslin, in kilt pleating three-fourths of
yard deep, trims trained skirts of light silks-a
suggestion followed by those who wish to freshen
up last seasons dresses. model is a pale blue
si,k skirt trimmed with single deep pleating of
way, and an inch space between; this killing is
edged below with three rows of insertion and
faleneiennes lace, and headed by a pleated
" q MAJ Na1a mn
Swiss Over-skirt is in two parts; the front apron
extends to the back like a basque while tho
back Is trained, and trimmed up the sides to the
waist Blue silk high corsage, with Valenci-
ennes bretelles. Bows and loops of Jack velvet
ribbon, and pink rose buds.
OPERA WRAPS.
Deep Vatican nantes, large Circulars and
very loose paletOts are all worn for evening
cloaks. White ottoman silk paletots wrought
wrought with soutache or with cOlored embrode-
ry. are among the handsOmest. A fayorite wran
this season is talma of quilted silk covered with
black lace mantle. One arranged by modiste
mas lavend @ silk mantle fringed with chenille,
Ornamented by bows Of black faille.
GENTLEMEN's BALL DRESS.
AT the Grand Dukes balls gentlemen wore
low rolled dress-coats, vests, and pantaloons of
S,ach cioth. white vests are entirely out of
neck-tie scarcely an inch wide is still in vogue:
but the Grand Duke appeared in a black tie.
ana IL rs SAID many gentlemen to whom the cler-
try to make the fashion general
VARIETIES.
new Oyer-skirt that Is much admired for
silks, wooiens, and for muslns over silk is lon
ger in front than behind, requiring the back
breadths Of the dress to be fiounced very high.
To construct IL take three front widths of silk. a
yard long, and two back breadths only three
Fights long. 1t opens behind, the back widths
being In double bOx-pleats to form as position
hounce, and the long apron breadths being
gathered down the side seam.
& fri limo hat ,,;tl,
most favor on lower skirts. Ii is made straight
Is lined with foundation muslin, the lower edge
IL hemmed in loose stitches ON the wrong side a
bias band holds the top fatty, and a row of
stitching Is placed straight aronnd three inches
above the edge.
A standing ruffie of Valenciennes lace, with a
large jabOt or oval r0sette in 'front.' is worn in
stead OF collar with dressy street toilettes in
the evening. These are becoming and more
dressy than the linen collars and muslin frills
worn with colored ties in the day time. They
cost from 81 30 to Sl3 accnrdInn to the aualitsx