Worcester daily spy. [volume] (Worcester [Mass.]) 1850-1888, 1871-04-18
Our Trip to Charleston.
CHARLESTON, S. C., April 10th, 1

Our Trip to Charleston.
CHARLESTON, S. c., April 10th, 1871.
Editor Qf Daily Spy:-As there is an opin-
ion prevailing of an incipient rebellion in the
south, with woman's well-known courage and
secresy, solemnly resolved to proceed through
the rebel territory with the utmost crcumspec-
tiou. Blind and dumb to all I saw and heard
spoken, was to be the chief feature in the pro-
gramme. This resolution was more firmly fixed
on leaving Richmond, where we had visited
Libby prison, Castle Thunder, the court house
and the old home of jefferson Davis, each place
having burnt its lesson into our memory. More
over we learned that the hotel keepers and rail
road conductors are generally rebels, many of
whom have been officers in the service.
The blight on the country everywhere on
our southern route is sufficiently evident
to induce sadness. A more God forsaken land
l never pictured than this, save what have read
of Siberia or other equally hopeless tracts, es-
pecaly from Wilmington to Charleston. Even
the trees of the forest seem stricken with blight,
only relieved by tine white. blossoms the luxu-
RANT dogwood. Brick colored stagnant pools
and long reaches of dismal swamps, with clear
ings on which appear the most miserable log
hutS are the chief features of the scene. There
is scarcely an appearance of human or animal
life for many miles, even around these huts.
But we catch gimpses now and then
of the negroes in singular aspects; for instance
mounted on an OK of the " leanest kine", which
is rudely harnessed TO an impromptu dray.
Even the dogs are so poor and stunted as to be
off Gnrc
The larger stopping places are all stamped
with the same poverty and detection. From
the car window | was surveying the broken
rampant of an old field Of battle where, we
were told, the blood ran like a stream over the
ground, when loI a sensation of stunning and
general consciousness took sudden possession
of my head. All was over now, certainly. A
rebel shot had penetrated the Yankee incognitO.
The satchel of a carpet-bagger from the rack
over head had decapitated me. And the best of
it was, this carpet-bagger proved brigadier
general from the confederate army. A very
chivalrous apology mended the matter if not
my brain. With this somewhat novel introduce
ton, acquaintance flowed apace. Forgetting all
my sage resolutions, l frankly told him my
fears, and in the midst of laughter
and badinage the spell had broken
and hen0eforth we were friends as travellers,
if not as patriots. This general, whose name is
familiar to us all, was educated at West Point,
and being talented and communicative, it was
worth while to listen to his conversation. There
was a new sensation to hear one from the wrong
side, saying, 81 did thus with my brigade at
Fredericksburg" while he passed keen aud free
g
He was perfectly fearless and lofty in all his
utterances, at the same time saying nothing
which violated the strictest code of a gentleman.
1t was easy to see his feeling in regard to the
past, and not very difficult to conjecture his view
of the present state of affairs. His opposition
TO the disfranchisement of confederate officers
was decided owe should rather have been shot
at once than to have endured feel
ing after this fashion," he said. Upon
alluding to the relics of the ancient fami-
lies of the south, he observed, after moments
silence and evident emotion, Chat is the hard
est thing we have to remember-the spelling of
our old family treasures, the portraits and
cherished valuables" He also expressed the
feeling of all the southerners whom we met;
that the negroes should be expatriated to some
place where they may live by themselves. "Many
of us" he added, do not believe that the
negroes are human; l believe they are though
some OF their habits go to prove the contrary.
We shall be glad to find that time developes
them into what you imagine a possibility; but
we cannot now have the least idea of such
change"
On arriving at this city we were impressed
with its aspect, which is unlike that of any
other town we ever saw. High walls, with close
gates equally high, having a door-bell at the
side, generally enclose even the finest residences
There is also a singular air of antique splendor
about the houses. Some of them command I'M
equaled views of the sea, across which Fort
Sumter sleeps in the distant haze. Here and
there are visible the traces Of the bombshells. At
this time an odor of flowers is in every part of
the city, the gardens being in full bloom of roses
of rare varieties, with other beautiful plants
and shrubs. But the oppressive sultriness of
the weather, which, even here, is unusual so
early, with the still more oppressive reflections
resulting from the information of northern resi-
| dents in Charleston respecting kuklux letters
lately received by them OF the most threatening
character, make us willing to return northward.
| These fears may prove groGndless The popu.
latiOn of the blacks in this city exceeding that
| of the whites by about seven thousand and their
| deposits in the freedmen's savings bank of over
two hundred thousand dollars, are facts which
warrant some degree of confidence in the exist
ing order of affairs in this vicinity. That there
is a suppressed volcano all over the south, no
one who comes into the conquered territory can
doubt. The omnous calm which precedes an
'upheaval even now is broken at intervals.
Our feet once more on northern terra frma,
we shall listen to the doxology with an appreci-
alton before unknown. E. t. H.H.