The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1871-01-03
THE FASHIONS.


yeaI:-
Costumes need no longer be en- suite, but
are worn in two or three we'll contrasting
colors. as russet brown and the dull green Of
decaying leaves in Cashmere. These con-
trastiDg tints must harmonize always with the
season, avoiding the bright coloring of sum-
mer or spring. There is passicn for en-
broidery in silks, braiding, and beads. Elabo-
rate designs are stamped upon French Cash
mere, braided, and dotted with cut Jet beads
Cashmere costumes are excessively decorated,
not only with this brading, but With very ele-
giant and ornate gimp, SO exqusitely manu-
tactured as to resemble the antique fretwork
of some Gothic chancel This is especially
fine, in effect, upon velvet and heavy silk
superb black Cashmere paletot, or Polonaise
made exceedingly full was trimmed with
broad jet-dotted; gimp and white thread lace
draEed in heavy folds over black silk.
Notwithstanding the admixture of colors,
and different shades of one color, black is
after all the favorite style. Very elegant
silks are trimmed with velvet. A delicate
emerald silk was ornamented with a velvet
hounce of the same tint, nearly quarter of
yard deep; these founces must be rather
scanty, either in gathers or side plaits. For
evening dresses, trains of excessive length
are no longer worn; the half train is much
more fashionable. The court train is re-
garded by many with partiality, partly upon
tHS SCOlo VI oCOuOuyJ pdIby bulOuBu grace.
1t is not necessary to have the under-skirt
entirely of silk, as the back breadths, which
are covered by the train, can be made of
cambric. A new and pretty style feT the cor
sage is pointed before and formed into deep,
narrow basque behind. This is particularly
becoming to one who rejoices in a super
abundance of flesh.
The toilettes for New Years day are re-
ceiving unusual attention. A very elegant
will ha IF q
fcent black lace shawl, draped as a tunic,
according to late fashion of the Princess de
Metternich, looped with blue ribbons, low
corsage, with cape and bertha of black lace
caught up with blue; this will be worn by
beautiful blonde, with iewelry of turquoise
ard diamonds. For young ladies nothing is
preparing more charming than delicate silks
of pale blue, rose pink, or more quiet gray,
with over-dresses of white muslin, or the
reverse; dresses of muslin, with satin and
light silks in over.skirts. Heavily y-brocaded
silks are revived. Very good silks, of which
there seems to be superabundanoe, can be
purchased at much lower rates than for many
Years. lady writing home few days be-
fole leaving Paris noticed s. silks marked in
the store windows at 40 cents yard. This
accounts for the cheapness and quantity of
that material Ruffles and founces should
lap over each other, in place of being divided
by trimmings placed between them, as here
tofore. In tarlatan, muslin, and light soft
silks the skirts can be ruffled to the waist,
bias and gathered with great fulness.
Among the newest things are double tunics
of different material. Basques are far more
becoming to the back if opened to the waist,
permitting the loops and bows forming the
sash to be seen, as long sash ends are no
longer worn. Little sleeveless jackets of
velvet, cashmere, or silk sare made to wear
over thil white dresses. Opera cloaks are
masses of braiding in gold and embroidery.
For the graceful creations of orange blossoms
and point lace are wraps Of white silk lined
through with snowy down. Ermine still con-
tinues an adjunct of an elegant toilette. Mink
and sable are not quite so fashionable as
formerly, caprice taking the lead in seal-skin
jackets. Last season Astrakhan was the rage.
Alaska sables arc much worn and liked. Pc
tite boas take the place of collars, are more
| comfortable as we'll as more becoming-col-
lars giving a high h-shouldered, short -necked
! appearance. Handsome dark mink has not
decreased in value, and is preferred by many
of our substantial people who are Indifferent
| to the caprices of fashion.
| Necklaces are as indispensable with the
toilette as regular set of jewelry. The last
| novelty is the snake or cable chain, clasping
around the throat, made of the yellow gold
so fashionable at present. Lockets and crosses
as pendants, enamelled, or with concave
centre, in which is the monogram. Large
oval lockets, merely as ornamental pendants,
are studded with turquoise, or with tiny
flowers in diamonds. Canoes are very fash
ionable. Pale Roman gold in earrings and
pin and the dark red gold are extremely
artistic and unique in design. Long ear
rings, very nearly touching the shoulder are
equally fashionable as hoops, in which hang
suspended a golden ball, either chased or
studded with precious stones Bracelets are
excessively broad and heavy, the band orna-
mented with cluster in turquoise, or cameo
in emerald or opal. Sleeve-buttons, cut ia
cameo of Jasper, sardonyx, or emerald, range
in price from $40 to $500.
Yet another novelty is a superbly gilt belt
ing or ribbon, which, like the ceinture ct
Venus gives beauty and grace to even an
imperfect form. The fastening is new IN
style, and can readily be adapted to the hgure.
Sashes are fast becoming obsolete. Morning
wrappers are also consigned to oblivion. In
their place 10 worn the long basque Polonaise
and skiiC, made of the same material, trimmed
with bias bands of silk or velvet; sometimes
the bands are quilted; if black, quilted and
stitched with silk the color of the dress.
Jackets are universally worn for the house,
and warmly lined for the street, to be worn
under the outside garTAept
We would mllaly counsel women not always
to be dressed as if going to feast. Plain
enlntz can command respect on certain occa
sions where silken attire and jewels would
excite disgust Taste and tact, managing
and concealing defects with the ready mo
bility of a well cultivated mind, will always
create a beautiful and well-dressed woman
over whom fashion casts halo
GAS clouds from yonder sun receive
A deep and mellow dye'