The New York herald., 1871-03-02
THE FASHIONS.
Preliminary Spring Indications Of the
Season-The First 0pening-American
Styles and Independence

Slowly, yet surely, the modes, manners and ex-
pressisns OF fashions have been growing essen
TALLY American, and we may at last congratulate
ourselves thar the reign Of "bzarre' Is over; that
the time 80 long predicIed mas at last arrived and
American fashions are universally acknowledged to
be the fashions not only for themselves but for the
whole world. This Is no more than they have long
merited possessing they do all the requisite ele
ments OF success-ecOnOmy, individuality, adapta-
bility, chic and originality. 1t has been clearly de-
monstrated through them that elegance may be
united with economy, grace with simplicity; tnat
We may dress Ia mode and yet not lose our indl-
vidualty, and they have awakened q desire for O
purer taste and better style than the mereric0us
modes tnat have heretofore emanated from foreign
court.
This growing independence and individuality in
reproacn to our American ladies that they have not
long since realized asserted their superiority
this matter but let 1t to be forced upon them, as II
were and allowed their European sisters 10 FIRST
proclaim and confirm II. as they are now dong, by
the acceptance, without modification, OF American
fashions in Europe. This recognition was accorded
them long the dcarth OF Paris fashions for 1t Is
now nearly two years since any one Of our leading
modistes hrst furnished designs Of American modes
to one or the leading London fashOa magazines,
which were hailed with delight, and, even at The
outset, adopted without question-unlike those
from Paris. which were always either modified or
exaggerated Since then they have steadily been
growing IN favor, and this season Mme Dcmorests
BULLETIN OF FASHIONS
IL to be reproducei in London almost simultaneously
with New York, thus proving beyond q question,
that the popularity OF American fashions has become
firmly established. Let us, therefore, use every
effort to maintain the position gained let US trust
that the disgracelul am extravagant era in the
annals OF fashion Is among things OF the past and
let hope that the pure and high Taste that is now
controlling our modes may long continue to direct
them both here and IN Europe
The designs OF the season as exhibited at Mme
Demorests opening yesterday are numerous and
varied. There are tight basques and jaunty jackets
for slight gllsh FORMS graceful casaques with their
artistic loopings that always mpart dignity to the
most insignificant figure; and, by the way, most OF
the ch,c OF a costu me depends upon this same
LOOPING OR DRAPlNG,
and 1t requires the exquisite taste and dett fingers
OF true drtiste to arrange gracefully. There
stylish mantes for matronly ladies, too DGssce for
the more youthful, tlght-nvting garments for the
street; graceful tunlques, becoming corsages, charm
ing costumes de promenade. recaerche dinner. even
ing a. visiting olettes IN snort deslGnsAmeri, Y
cnlldren and they all recommend themselves Oh the
broad basis OF style, becomingness adaptabity and
Let ali those who have been tremblingly inquiring
whether
SHORT COSTUMES
still to be Ia mode take heart; for in spite OF
the efforts few ultra-fashlonables to reinsate
the demi-train for street wear tie short walking
costume Is still de rigueuT. In the name OF health,
cleanliness and economy, leaving proprlety and the
eternal fitness Of things out OF ne question: we hope
that all sensible ladies wlll stand firm III this matter
For the present season there Is nothing to lear.
Costumes still reign pre-emlnent ior street wear
under stylish polonaise or casaque which arrange
ment Is most generally becoming; but II fitted
garment Is not desirable we have the long graceful
oversklrt, to be artlslicay looped and worn with
jaunty paletot or more
MArRoNLY MErrERNrcH,
OF which there are some notifications, which pre-
sent our old friend Iii most charming Shapes. One
design, Called the Jacket Mettefnichn elected
especial admiration 1t combined In a most graceful
manner all the beauties without the defects OF both
basque and Metternich ana Will be found especially
ali dtstrgue, one known as Ga PrgsdenteS stands
pre-emnent. This Is especially intended for cash
mere which en- passant With It's substitute satin
and 1t Is to be trimmed with broad band OK the
material. edged with narrow gros grain fold, said
handsome gupure lace to be placed standing, just
above. The style of this garment s decidedly novel
and unique, and 1t cannot fail to impart distinction
TO any toilette Another casaque known as LA
ViOla," comes under the head Of vest casaques OF
which there are a great variety.
JACKETS AND PALErOTs.
In jackets to complete costumes ana Independent
paletOts for early spring We 1olnd the "ClaremOnt
and "DensmOreo paeIUts Tor cloth; the former just
the proper lit, happy medium between loose and
tight, and the latter slightly lo0ser and little
longer; the 'IOnar Jacket, completing costume Of
the same name, hearty admiration for the dis
position OF front revers and peculiar arrange
ment or pOstillon at the Dack--a novelty In half
loose garment Among the house basaues which
have almost utterly annihated the round waist, all
were taken captive by the
.tNILsSON,n
graceful charming and dtstingi6 its lovely name.
sake. Ihls must be seen to be appreciated. The
intended Tor use over plain denli-tran, has short
vest fronts, the back continued IN long coat skirts,
resembling the old time Continental COATS De-
cidedy revolutionary and altogether IN keeping with
the general female INDEPENDENCE Of the age.
In negtt06e robes LA Favorita' fully proved its
right TO the name. 1t Is intended for cashmere Of
some light neutral tnt tne garnlture to be bands Of
gros grain Of q contrasting color. 1t is arranged
with an independent, short skirt, trimmed with
bands. to be worn under a sort OF long polonaise-
that Is very long IN the back, the fronts not reach
hg M e M a sdes er SIX o and
depend from the waist.
specially at this house is
BUSINESS SUITS FOR LADIES,
which are IN various styles, In which convenience,
adaptabi and certain sty,e suitable TO the pur
pose for which they are intended are the especial
features. The most appropriate and most popular
style is arranged with a skirt somewhat snOrter
than Inc ordinary walking W. length ana coat @ basque
generally trimmed with broad bands Of gr0s gram,
continued en- taOlter, the basquine cut away to dis
play them. This basquine Is provided with numer-
Gus and capaciOus pockets, is open down the back,
with plat at the loot Of each side form, as IN d
gentleman'S coat.
SOME CHOICE TOILETS
lovely costume de promenade Is In grisaile silk,
the skirt Ornamentea with eventals OF The silk,
trimmed with alternate tiny folds OF black and white
silk nese arc placed sc Intervals, connected Dy
feathered ruchngs OF black aud white SILK nteraced
anu forming the heading TO the eventail5. An eX-
ceedingy graceful Overskirt, trimmed to MATCH and
a new style p0stllliOn complete this most unique
costume.
dtstt,ague visiting toilet is in golden brown puult
de sole, arranged with an exceedingly graceful
manteau de cOur, having circular apron and worn
slightly lOoped at the sides, forming small panier.
This train Is susceptible OF unique style of looping,
by when 1t can be transformed into graceful over
skirt, changing the toilet into an elegant costume de
promenade. 1t is bordered with plated founce,
graduated IN width, the heading composed OF band
silk tied IN careless knots one placed at the top
OF each piat-the intervening spaces slightly puffed.
Above this are placed two standing rows OF lace
one white, placed under black little narrower.
The sty.e OF garniture Is disposed en- taber on
the petcoa following the shape OF the apron OF the
tram. The back ls without garniture, as It Is en-
urely covered, whether the train Is looped not.