Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-11-01
THE WORLD OF FASH ON.
STYLES FOR NOVEMBER.
The Thing I'm Ball. Dtauer. and
street Dresses, Coatings, and furs.
Letter frcm cur Fashion correspOndeRi.l
NEW YORK, October 81, Is7I.

IN the train Of the awful western calamities that
the hopes and snticipstions of an unusually CAV
season have been considerably dampened. Were
II not for the advent OF Nilsson in opera and the
Grand Duke Alexis. there would be little chance
for social revival until Christmas or New
Years make gayety, or at least festiyity, a
necessity.
1t was strange what an instantaneous effect n
stringent money market produced i'm city trade
No purchasers of Stoe suits for one week: and
many were the feals that heavy stocks OF rich
garments would be left upon the hands OF the
importers; but, as q shrewd French dressmaker
remarked, ''No need 20 be alarmed ladies must
dress, panic or no panic; and though men nearly
always begin with retrenchment at home they
end by drawing a check and ordering their
wives TO come out finer than ever in order 10
keep up their dignity and credit"
The preludes to the Nilsson opera season were
the Dolby concerts, Mrs. " oulton and Madame
Van Zandt in ''Satanella" at the Academy. The
Dolby concerts were a treat TO the oldest concert
goeTs- They were in every respect admirable
Every singer Wac an artist, ana Mr. Santlev's
magnificent baritone voice worth going miles 20
hear. Madame Van Zandt Is not Nilsson but
she has sweet, fresh, pure, wel-trained voice
ana good method, although she lacks dramatic
power. Mrs. Moulton is a good amateur but
bad artist Neither OF these attractions brought
out beauty or fashion in iull force. That triumph
was reserved for Nilsson. Tbs first night Of her
appearance was indeed sight 60 see, and one 70
be remembered. The Academy was ablaze with
light, perfume and flowers. Excitement and the
enchantment OF dress gave a superb a man beauty
TO the women, which inspired the men and To-
gether with the music lifted them for once out of
the region Of stocks and stables. Ii was a great
achieve ment for one young girl.
BALL AND DINNER DRESSES.
The prediction that Poufs and paniers would
be abandoned has already been realized The
two leading houses in Paris have disc artled
them, and the later importations acquire grace
freshness, and novelty which cannot be appre-
clated by description, simply from the absence
OF the punching and putting Of which we had
become so weary. Trains are still long though
not 20 exaggerated as formerly, and are strictly
confined TO evening or ceremonious toilettes the
de mi train is allowed for carriage dresses but Is
considered vulgar 10 the very last degree when
worn for promenade. Dressy servant girls have
about used up the street train in New York city.
On their Sundays out" they walk up the ares
steps, their skirts trailing at least half ward
and sweep the dust with as much nOhehaIdnoe as
the finest lady. al shall have my walking dresses
cut over to clear the ground" remarked a lady
who saw one OF these exhib itions and so she did;
but il is mystery how any one can walk behind
trailing dress In the street, and not be inspired
by 50 strong a sentiment of disgust as 10 prevent
them from ever following the example, no mat
ter who was the wearer.
Jacket bodies trimmed 70 simulate A yaistnoat
are almost universal for handsome dinner toilettes
Of Jdille or soft txilied finished leyantine The
body part does not always descend below the
waist, but the trimming forms capots, or a sort OF
square basques in front, and crossed ends al the
back. Strict coat sleeves not unfrequentiy ac-
company these models. The skirts are either
court trains, 30 called, being reserved for still
more elaborate costumes of velvet and faiIls.
An elegant dress OF black velvet, and amber
tdiHe was lately made for the Washington sea-
son, which was very striking. The train was of
black velvet, and IL was cut out in Van Dykes
over fat pleated fiounce Of GaiIIe, which com
menced at the sides, and surrounded the back
of the skirt. The petticoat was Of Jaile and was
trimmed with narrow scant hounces, cut out
and bound with velvet. The basque was of vel
vet, ysndyked upon the edge, and cut short
X. = a Wi 10 bsaff ,sgT
The front was trimmed as a waistcoat with old
Venetian point, and wide ruffies Of the same
costly ACE hnlshed the sleeves which were IL
tdilie, with yandyked band of velvet, and low
OF silk. This dress is described minutely be-
cause II was one of the most perfect in design
and execution ever made in this city, and be
cause the combination of contrasting colors and
dlferent colors which have not been worn since
the nth century, are this season brought into
ample, violet and English pink, tea-rose and
light green.
This revival has suggested to many, a good
way OF utilizing old silk evening dresses, which
IN some instances, has proved very successful
pale blue silk, for example, has been remod-
eled by trimming with deep plaitings Of white
French muslin, edged with Valenciennes lace
The lower one Of these plaitings heightened the
skirt, whilst others simulated an upper skirt
and quite modernized the waist and sleeves
Another Of light rich green silk had the back
part OF the skirt entirely out, and its place occu-
pied by train OF black silk, trimmed with a
hOunce, the heading TO which was lined with
green. The front Of the skirt, which was green,
was trimmed with narrow black and green
LOUNGES alternating. The part Of the skirt
which was thus cut out was made into basque
with psgoda sleeves, and trimmed with black
and green 10 match. In this way two really
elegant costumes were created at less than the
cost Of one.
BALL DRESSES
are generally composed OF silk, or OF some very
hight material, like tulle or tarletan. Few white
Swiss oyerskirts are seen with light evening six
although some very beautiful complete dresses
emlrOiOprpi I'm,
with silk strips beneath. The newest toilettes.
however, have oyerskirts of silk or crane 10
match the dress, richly embroidered and trimmed
with fringe. In many instances the silk is cut
out TO form the design, and the embroidery exc
cuted in the raised sewing machine stitch
Upon Grape, hand embroidery is used. some
times on the var;egated cOlOrs, and rich lace is
used to form foundation for the fringe. Simple
ball dresses for young girls are of tarletane
white or colored, made with two or three skirts
and tri mined with thick tarletane ruches The
white are all white; the colors-light evening
gieen. blue, maize or rose cOlOr-have white
Iuches. These dresses can be bought ready
made from frst-class house for thirty dollars
The dress.
Dresses for dancing parties are not cut LONG.
as they are nuisance 70 the wearer and every
body else, anu young girls who dance, and like
10 dance great deal, will find il infinitely safer
ard pleasanter every way TO have two or three
bin, inexpensive evening dresses cut without
altogether less elaboration Of toilet.
Brussels net pulled over a stiff foundation.
and finished with an upper skirt trimmed with
ruehes, makes a cheap and pretty dress, which
can be wasned, As also can dress Of white
french muslin trimmed with plaitings Of the
anne, headed with putting or insertions of lace.
simple toilet Is one Of the exclusive privileges
OF young girl, and III she Is wise she will be
glad to avail herself Of it. In few years white
muslin viii be voted |" Juvenile, !" and simplicity
an affectation OF youthfulness, and she will look
with tender regret upon the remnants of the old
muslin or pretty grenadines which did hard
duty so many times ut balls and parties, and
was always ironed out 70 look very we'll with
dowers and whtened shoes and cleaned gloves
and the long, thin chain, with q locket which
had been |. mothers" Perhaps Won would
'aueh now, my young lady reader, at such a
toilette, but let me ten YOU there were brighter
eyes and fewer wall fowers in those dsys' and
the young men seemed to ind no.hins ANS in
the dresses or those who wore them
A CHANGE YoR THE BETTER
One Improvement we have 20 note with
pleasure THIS season, and that Is In the oualifv
the dress materials, and the gradusilv in
Tessing fAvor with which msteriaII 80
tunes, as they are called abroad are regardsd
lime WAS when an American lndy fho,,cb, -
could not 60 into the street without pvffi,. sie
ok dress, and even the short suits were 81 "a eS
rons1dered en- reols unlee partly CONN., ~
ok fabric. A for q dinner dress eyer 81 ~ VI
u must be OF six, and, latferly earnsshsS 5o 1,
POINT lace, OF, the wearer felt q d;sIc1sSs WIN
not In q condition 10 bear scrtfinv ~ ano
1ven 10 luxury and exfrayaesnce 81 a.. &c p,oM
~. n