Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-02-01
FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.
Where are Fashions 10 Come From View
York IS a Fashion Center-Old Party
Clothes Reception Dresses Costumes
for Fsrsy Balls-Things that Everybody
wants 20 Know.
lOgT Ne'o YorE Festion Leser.J

Press Eugsnic suited American women so wei
IN the matter OF dress, they should offer her
good salary To come and lead fashion for them
IN this country, ne thus achieve the pTe-enli-
nence they desire, and which, Just now, i. is
problem who CT what VIII obtain. UnfOrt1-
nstely, or fortunately, a. the case may be, the
scheme is impracticable. and We are st,ll at a
loss 90 decide where those changes, fuctua-
tons and ipS piratiOrs are ID come from winch
we have been accustomed to look for with every
season, a.Id which seem ID have become a ne
cessity 10 the existence OF American woman.
We really need q leader, but whether 1t shall be
an Imperial butterfly or female Messiah. with
new dlspensation, sutOrdinsting dress to life
and its duties does not as vet exactly apnesr
There are, We understand. women in high
circles who are perfectly prepared TO act inde-
Fendehtly III the matter OF dress; and there
hrst class h0uSes ready and willing to carry out
any suggestions that may he made 10 them that
are Practicable aud sensible. Such houses only
require 20 cooperate with American nlarufac
tureTs TO give US American fabrics and Amer
lean fashions that would be accented eyerv-
where. There Is such great work for women
TO do that We wish they would set aside all
other considerations for time, to accomplish
II. Never mind voting, property, or marriage
laws, let US have Decentralization to wear A
warm cloak, comfortable street dress, an out
side garment with pockets, finished in q neat,
sensible way, with durable binding, instead of
being tricked out with kno5by gimps, frayed
satin Outings, and rsveled fringes, that catch
IN.
In doors, at the feie and ireside, a great deal
OF latitude NAV be allowed, but for the street
and upon public occasions, il is time We had
dress approaching IN sOberness and simplicity
TO that OF men, dress adapted to ocomotion, to
business, to purpose, TO achievement. A dress
that would not stand in the way of anything we
wish TO do; that would not take half the day TO
put on, and the other half TO take OF; a dress
IN short, made for the woman, not the woman
tortured into lifting the dress.
Such dress WI Ill come; the time demand il,
X =
which precedes and presages it's coming. 4 con-
| graduate women on the fact from the bottom
OF my heart. Dress is the most important u ues-
ton to-day for them to solve. No power upou
earth, or IN heaven, can help them, so long as
they are absorbed IN continual efforts to change,
without purpose, except the mere desire Tor
novelty, the length OF their skirts, the cut OF
their sleeves, the number of their rutfies, the
color OF their ribbons and the size Of their bon
nets.
In reality there il no reason why these cues
tons should occupy the mass OF women at all.
few general principles understood, should be
the business OF persons engaged i'm designing
and manufacturing clothing tor women, 10 fur
nish the variety suited to all times and pur-
poses, at the moderate prices for which clothing
can he obtained by men.
Special occasions require, Of course special
efforts and special provisions. but the general
| need in dress i like in food. and should be a
plain. substantial, perfectly adapted to It's
| Use, and nearly a. uniform u its character.
| WHAT NEW YORK MIGHT Do.
Ihefe is an opportunity for New York 20
III
was only equal to the occasion, and il NAV be
that II viii be forced upon it yet. The truth is,
and the fact has only just begun to be realised,
Paris il lost 10 the civilized world, and there i
no city III Europe ready to take its place. Brus-
sels is toe small moreover the material is not
there you cannot get out OF place more than
L III H. and Brussels has neither the enterprise
nor the commanding position 10 become the first
capital in the world. Vienna Is quite "a i'm
practicable "a Bruises. although il has more
activity. Berlin l. a respectable old town hut
1t has the stad and heavy German Characters
ties, the German economies. which are incom-
patiDle with modern leadership in dress and
lashlon, anu Is too slow and too of TO in-,,ire
England or America With il ideas. In
fact England has had about enough OF
Germany, one way or another, and is vastly
more ready to receive suggestions aid ami
counsel from its bright child across th, water
than nom that country which has given IL
nothing but poor relations to provide for. Ger
man fashion papers exhibit the genius OF Ger
man fashions. They give All immense number
| Of illustrations because they are executed at
starvation prices but the difficulty IL there i, no
change or variety IN them, and one get, tired OF
seeing the design OF the same night-cap (Which
American women will lot WEAR and the SAM.
straight, wide, short, nj sht-dress (which Amerl-
can women 90 every week or month, for more
thaI ten or hfteen years in succession. no mat
Ter how inclined one may be, individually, 10
perpetuate general styles in fashion. ON the
other hand, New York, which considers itself
so smart and AZ enterprisny, is not at all up 10
the times or equal to the emergency. To be
sure, New York magazine is furni shi n fash
| Icns anu illustrations TO a London magazine,
and American fashion letters are copied in
England, Ireland and Scotland, a. Paris ia,hion
letters used TO be, but our manufacturers aud
gre merchants do not back up this position and
really do not seem to understand in the least
the opportunity which il presented to them
The needs OF this vast continent. with its inS-
mite variety OF climate, temperature, circun-
stance ana condition, include those Of the entire
civilized world. and II We had the ENTERPRISE TO
get up our supplies, exhibit and call the atteu-
ton OF the world to them IN advance OF others,
~
styles IN dress, As well a. mecharicaii Inventions
and practical ideas OF all kinds.
WHAT OUR GREAT MERCHANTS OUGHT To RE
DOING.
Instead OF rushing of thousands OF miles to
this little European town, and that broken
down gamblers retreat, to get ideas for the
dress OF American women, they should be fur
nishing designs to manufacturers Tor future
achievement. They should be getting rid of
the :" duil' and inactive seasons By meeting
the wants OF people who inhabit almost
all the different degrees OF latitude.
There ought to be spring openings"
/" fall" openings for the North and Fast IN the
middle OF July. Moreover, the fabrics tor these
different sections should be specially prepared
and adapted to their use, and the des ,ns OF
garments arranged beforehand and suited TO
their habits and temperature. As it is there is
no cooperation between the designers and m an
u1acturers, and the Results are, therefore, very
often a incongruous az possible. There is
want OF genius, enterprise and liberality among
our great dry goods and ladies' clothing houses.
or fashion writer's would not have to wait until
summer in New York was upon them before
telling their readers in Georgia what they NAV
wear in warm weather, and depend upon their
imagination tor their facts several months in
the year.
THE SEASON.
The season is not 50 good Is was expected in
New York city. Business did not DROP; il fell
hat Immediately after Christmas, and the
weather, excepting for few days, has not been
such as to promote skating or seasonable out
door sports and gaeties. The numerous char
liable fairs and special public balls seem to
have left but little time or opportunity Tor great
parties or entertainments. In fact, the party
JAM is An obsolete institution, except as a 80
cial convenience. TO enable persons to pay Of "a
number of small society obligations at once.
For no one thinks much OF being invited To a
- Jam, aud few do than show for "A
while to prevent any appearance of slight o.
neglect.
II is idle to talk OF women" in America set
ting fashion. A republic offers no commanding
position to woman, or to the individual woman
which enables her to act with the requisite pres
tige and authority. The wife OF the President
might, but the term OF Office is too short, and the
salary too light, to enable any woman to distin-
gui>h herself in that way; and for the rest, why
supposing one or half dozen, or half a hun
bred, should determine to set their own fash
ions. how they going to Get THAR IDEAS r.