The New York herald., 1871-02-19
FOREIGN FASHIONS.
Ladies' Heads and Head Dresses of the Pre-
sent Day-Elegant Coiffares-FuIl
and Demi-Toilets
LONDON, Feb. l, 1871.

LONDON, Feb. l, 1871.
1t squte wonderful, when you come TO think OF IT,
what quantity OF things may be put on one inno-
cent head. When we consider the mats and the
hair and the feathers and the flowers, the ribbons
and the lace and the jewels, we are quite over
powered
And still gazed, and still the wonder grew,
That one small head should carry all they do.
Compliments to Godsmith's ghost, and it shall
not occur again. WHAT wonderful things people
have done with their heads, too. Think
OF the old times when the great object
used to DO so to arrange the head
dress that the lady's head appeared IN the
middle or her body. Think OF the days when it took
the hatrdressers hours to powder and plaster and
pillow up tne heads In the 'poudre" fashion, and
operating on many consequently whole day before
the court day. The poor victims had to be bolstered
up In chair all night going to bed not to be thought
Of lest they should disarrange the elaborate erection
before 1t had been carefully carried into the presence
OF royalty
Then what curious influence literature and
politics have exercised on the outside as we'll as
on the inside Of the head. In the days OF
the first French revolution ladies d la Madame
Roland, as q matter of course did up their hair in
knot behind after the manner OF ancient statue
modern English postage stamp. This sul1iced to
express decided Partially for the classical repub
lies for lies Grecs ct les Ronats Peoples thu-
mains, Qti ne nous iaissent fdrlats dc repos" An
adherence to the Marie Antoinete curls the other
hand, spoke for ITSELF and 1t became very difficult
to keep those curls on your head and your head on
your shoulders at one period. short time before
these stormy days appeared "Paul and Virginia."
and everybody for time adopted fiat style OF hair
dressing and straw hat with blue ribbons, because
Virginia was supposed to look so nice in one.
THE DIAMOND STAR.
Lately, in 'Lothair, ;" Mr.. Disraeli describes that
exceedingly tiresome heroine, "rheodora," as wear
ing only star in her hair. She had Kept no other
jewels, but this star she preserved because 't was
gwen her by hero.n Now the most fashionable
thing in the hair Is a diamond star, la Theodore.
l hope, however, the ladies' viii not initiate the
'serenen Mrs. Campion In anything else, unless, IN
deed, 1t be in her moderation in the matter OF jew
eiry. Any way the heavenly bodies have come out
wonderfully OF late, and society truly and literally
follows the Polar star. And 1t Is well, for
there is something poetcal about these orna-
ments, aud the poetry OF dress Is too much
neglected. 1t is too common to sacrifice grace to
style, by which means the art OF dressing is reduced
10 the hOmeest prose- Now style Is all very well,
but 1t bears the same relation to grace as peony
does to camelia; there is a similarity OF form
which may deceive us at a distance. but coarse
ness Of contrast which cannot but offend us on
closer examination. In other details OF the toilet
these distinctions are of less consequence; but upon
| the head they fatal. Good taste gives an ex-
| pring groan, ana is no more. Yet, strange to
| often observable on the head than elsewhere,
and one often sees @ woman IAN perfectly wen dressed
time OF his amented death, with all her imperfec-
| tions on her head" Two rules might be laid down
about the couture Never exaggerate and never vie.
| Never wear great quantity of anything, not even
hair to make your head look too big for your body.
One may see girls with at least quarter Of yard Of
har-not forgetting the paddng-above their heads.
| 1t gives the expression OF dolphin, and lnvOun-
tarily suggests the uncomplimentary quotation-
Monsrum horrendum, informe, insens.
| Never vie girl who puts four big pufrs on the
| top OF her head, because Bella Highnyer wears
three, Commits treason against good TASTE Having
thus limited what to avoid we may be permitted TO
ELEGANT CoIFFuREs.
Small touffe OF flowers, consisting OF moss rose
buds and maiden hair fern held IN place by small
diamond clasp. Long trail OF holly with bouquet Of
Lent lilies and red berries. Shaded satin flowers
worn In the hair. Gold stars fastened on to black
velvet, a large one at the top and smaller towards
effective headdress. At the Warwickshlre Hunt
| bail the other night, beautiful headdress was
diamond ornaments. AT the Chippenham bali the
Marchioness OF Lansdowne wore white lilac and
diamonds in her hair Lady Cowley wore blue
| feathers and diamonds handsome ball dress,
1 worn by the Vicom,esse de &. consisted OF
headdress composed Of saffron roses, with a dress
| OF sanron-colored satin. with tunic and trimmings
| OF saffron crepe; the low bodice trimmed with
bertha OF crepe arranged In front graceful folds
| edged with fluting and two rows In bias satin, O
| saifron rose and foliage in the centre. The bertha
! is round at the back and very narrow on the
shoulder very short crepe sleeves, deep round sash
| with bows tied at the back.
AS an evening dress ior young lady we may
| mention skirt OF maize silk trimmed with five
Douilonnes OF white tulle. with band OF blue
velvet; tunlc and low bodice Of maize silk, trimmed
also with bouilonnes OF tulle and blue velvet; blue
cOnvovOlus for shoulder knots and bouquet de cor
sage; blue convolvous and blue velvet in the hair.
Another lovely evening toilet Is long train skirt
| OF ruby satin, trimmed with deep lace f0unce and
rouleaux OF satin paner and bodice to match; head
dress Of white feather, fastened with ruby clasp
High bOdces, cut square, with long loose sleeves
| are much worn for demi toilet
| In mourning and walking dresses the ladies are
| not making much change, but it may be observed,
| costume dresses "show downward tendency,''
| and full train skirts without trimming, are now