The daily dispatch. [volume] (Richmond [Va.]) 1850-1884, 1871-10-06
FALL AND WINTER FASHIONS.
INTERESTING ITEMS FOR TIE LADIES'.

lNTBRhS1IH(f fIEMS FUf lHE LdDIES.
In advance of the fashion magazines for
November we present our lady readers
this morning some reliable hints and in.
formation about what will and what will
not be worn during the late fall and winter
Of 1871. These items are from the pen of
one OF the bcst-informcd fashiOn-writers in
the country (our own speciaD, and she lives
in New York. ...-.
First, as to bonncts. The opening has
recently taken place in New York, and dc-
reioped nothing new or striking.
The shapes arc tho same us last season
with this difference, that those that were
larger and confined to the exclusives then
arc becoming general now, while the eX-
cluslycs, in the absence of Partisan novelty,
have nothing to take their place. AS is
always the case in fashions, the latest ideas
of the previous season simply become
more pronounced during the succeeding
ones until they reach pitch OF absurdity
which compcls total change of base
then something else, possibly the opposite
extreme, takes its place. Last year the
trimming began to be placed urUn the
back of the crown this year it is piled
high upon it, and makes the tor. OF the
head look nearly an inch higher than The
forehead. The popular preference is for
higll-cruwncd hats Of black straw, with
brlm turned up rather more at the sides
than in front, and trimmed with alternate
folds of soft satin, finished grOS grain bows
and long ends, surmounted by 4 plume Of
ostrich feathers OF briSht-colorcd wing
and black ai.rctte. All black hats and
bounets are always lady-like, and there
fore popular among q large class who can
not afford to follow the tancies but must
wear the same hat or bonnet with different
N.s, wifi 10 81
and thread lace they arc really distin-
giislled, and arc on y vuIgarized by the
colorcd aicrcttcs which some millnCrs re-
commend to match dresses and trimmings.
The close form, With high narrow crown
and small, somewhat flaring 7brim, orna-
mentcd on the inside by an inch Of white
tulle or black lace, and popularity called
the "cottagc bonnet" is the prevailing
STYLE. but divides the suffrage with the
round, suft-crowned 6eret, the crown of
which is mounted somewhat higher, while
the hrim and curtain are cOrrcSpuntlingty
deeper. Both these styles lit easily to the
bead, and are adapted to the present ar
ranucmcnt of the hair, which is rolled high
in front and faces the brim. Only round
hats descend upon the forehead, and these
much less than formerly. -....
There are two kinds Of dress bonnets,
one intended for ceremonious visiting toi-
lettes, the other for wedding receptions
and evening wear. The ilrst 1re the bon
nets compOSed of several tones or tiuts, to
match the dress !; the second reserves the
graceful white bonnetS OF several years
ago, but with flashes of color which, while
dctracting from the SoitneSS and purity of
the effect, admit Of less StrictncSS III the de-
tails of the costume.
OF new fall fabrics-.fdille satire, cash
mcrcs, and empress cloths, for example
cypress green, vankykc brown, ashes of
rose. and the cameo tintS, will he most
fashionable. In these cNqusitcly-toncd and
shaded costumes fine combination OF tintS
and of different materials conveys the i'm.
preston OF beauty and completeness with
out any display, and, therefore, is only APP
prccaicd by persons of really high taste
and refinement. 1t opens Il new field, how
ever, to those who admire the suDllct!cS Of
dress.
The skirt and polonasc, which became
the rage last summer, rtappcar punched
lid in the same folds, and repeating the
same hidcous waste of material in rich silks
and thick satincts which were expended in
their tlinlSy and therefore more suitable
and less expensive fabrics. The skirt and
polonuise, arranged to form an elaborate
suit, were devised for those who have
dresses especially adapted for every occa-
sion-wrapperS when they rise in the morn-
ing, the pretty deml-traiucd skirt and small
BASQUE for house Wear, the more cercmo-
NOUS dinner dress, and The elaborate eve
ming toilette; neither of which would be.
Thought of Tor ;ln instant for walking. shop
ping, or calling purposes, tho Uses to which
the skirt and polonaise III their infinite
variety are devoted. .u.
The masses Of women, however, do not
have new dresses every season Cmbodying
all the changes which dress-makcrs and
tashou.mnngerS have to invent To satisfy
their clients. The majority have perhaps
two new dresses. many not more than that
in the course Of the year, and they require
that these should fill the different require
ments of their social life. They inquire
anXiollsly and aSSiduously about the fash
ions, and they get for an answer the skirt
and polonaisc. That "polonaiSc becomes
their bete n0ir they cannot sleep for think
ing of it, until by some means or other thCy
become possessed of L pattern. Then they
set to work, cut up the material, make u
nondescript thing which is 81 neither beast
nor humln,'' and wear it, feeling dimly
conscious that Us an experiment i'll fashion
it is a failure, and that they have nothing
that they wanted 10 make up for it.
But The most distinguished women make
their own fashions, and generally become
noted for II certain style OF dress, which be-
longs to thom almost as exclusively rs the
color Of their hair or the expression Of
their ewes. Instead Of adapting themselves
TO the prevailing fashion, they adapt The
prevailing fashion to themselves, and the
result is that fitness of clothing TO the
Wearer which strikes every one with adnll-
ration. 1t is fact that the most elegant
women of society have discarded panllicrs,
and refuse 10 bunch up costly velvet and
thick groS grain into "Dolly Nardcns."
We may hope, therefore, to see before the
winter closes, and even before it is far ad-
yanced, the huge punches at the back en-
tirely got rid of; the dense trained skirts
of rich material made perfectly plain; the
destructive folds of creaSeS taken out OF the
polonai-e OF velvet and wool. and the gar
ment allowed to descend naturally upon
the graceful skirt. -. ~ .r..
The "girl of the period'' has passed into
caricature. It is sincerely to be hoped that
she will shortly pass into history, with all
her humps, her " bends" aud her delormi-
ties. and lie seen no more. .i
Shawls are seen little during the inter-
mediate season before thin suits have given
place to warmer ones, but they have not rs
vet recovered any Of that prestige which
DISTINGUISHED them before "suits" became
the universal wear. The question now
With many ladies is, What shall we do for
a dress cloak!
This winter it seems probable that this
great want will be supplied. Several models
of winter pelisse i'll tricot and broadcloth
have been exhibited, which seem to COM
bine all the requisites and right TO WIN at
tention and favor. The pattern Is cut long,
so as closely to define the figure, although
loose enough to be put OH with comfort
over dress. 1t may be double or single
breasted, and made with or without pelerlne
canes. Ihe capes are not lined, they are