The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1871-06-16
Cookbook PhilOsOphizing.

"What becomes of all the pins ?" was
at one time a curious speculation in
social science but we do not recollect
that any one has ever asked as to the
final disposition of all the cook-books.
When the reader recollects that the
circulation of these culinary mentors
ranks only after that of Bibles, alma
macs and spelling books, he will per-
ceive that the magnitude of this yearly
distribution elevates the question we
have propounded into one of no little
importance. And it is not only what
becomes of all the cook books that may
puzzle US, but where or how can their
influence be traced. For man may go
East or 90 West, he may travel North or
he NAV adventure South, and no fact Is
more patent than that the admonitions
of some authority in the art OF cooking
are the great prevailing need. We
believe that the united efforts of all the
writer's on cooking have not succeeded
in establishing the most elementary
principles in the art. Cooking, as 1t is
practised in nineteen families out OF
twenty. is matter of tradition and the
instruction of the cook book, whenever
they controvert any of those traditions,
are treated with open and unqualified
contempt. Cook-books are probably
consulted for a new variety of pudding,
or new method of making preserves,
or q fresh suggestion as TO cake but we
boldly aver that they are never studied
with view to obtain knowledge of
principles. If they were so, how can it
be that the trying-pan, in almost all
parts OF the country, retains its SUI
premacy? Does not every authority in
cookery establish the gridiron as the
rightful king of the Goals? and yet, in
face of this, does not nearly every
housekeeper maintain the usurping
frving-pan in its place? Fried beet,
fried ham, fried fish, are the flavorless
dishes that in some parts of the country
constitutes almost the entire couisine;
and all the multitude of cooks, of high
or low degree, remain as serenely un-
conscious Of the broil as if cook books
had never been written. Vain, indeed,
have been the labors Of Leslie, of Beech
er, of Ellis, Of Elliot, of Seyer, of Blot ;
tradition and sheer obstinancy have de-
feated them uniformly from the begin
ming. Cook books have been purchased
extensively. They have at first been
read honestly; but the cook, soon dis
covering that they have assailed the
very foundations of her errors, has
thrown the revolutionary pages into the
rubbish-box, and resolutely continued
in her career of rendering that which
is wholesome unwholesome. of convert
ing that which Nature made excellent
into that which the cultivated taste re-
.jects as abominable. There should be
connected with every public school in
the country department for instruct
ing girls in the elementary principles Of
cooking, and every boy and girl should
be educated up to an appreciation of
wholesome dishes, rightly cooked. Then
we should so re-established the savory
roast instead Of the bake, the delicate
broil instead of the grease.encased fry !;
and perhaps the denominations Of hot
cakes pies, sweetmeats, and all those
stomach demoralizing inventions, will
disappear. Ccoll.boolls have failed in
their mission; perhaps the school
method would be better.-Appleton'S
Journal