The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1871-07-12
CHARLESTON AS. IT is.
RAMBLES OF. TWO lNIGHTS OF THE
PENCIL ABOUT OUR SUBURBS.

~ y .-
RAMBLES OF. TWO .INIGHTS OF THE
PENCIL ABOUT OUR SUBURBS.
First Impressions OF the City-An Art
fst,s view-An Air Of Ancient Respec-
tubility-The Battery and tho Harbor
Fort NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. up tho ASH
1ey-The Grand Old Plantattons--The
Live Oaks-,Goose Creek Church anu its
Associations.
Appletons' Journal for July Is IS number
replete with interest to Charlestonians. messrs.
O. B. Bunce and Harry Fenn-the former the
editor and the latter the artist of the Journal
lately visited our city, and evidently maze
good use of their memorandum and sketch
books during their stay. For the admirable
sketches of Mr.. Fem, Including the glorious
bird,s.eye view from st. Mchael's steepie, we
must refer our readers TO the Journal itself,
which may be- had at Holiness boofhouse, or
at the Hassl street Bazaar. The letter of MI.
Bunce which accompanies and heightens the
interest # these sketches, contrasts 80 pleas
antly in its genial tone with the accounts sent
by the political correspondents, that we are
sure our readers will thank us for giving it to
them entire Mr. Bunce writes:
II one 90 TO Charleston from the North let
him go Ia the spring time. The almost sud-
den change from wintry landscape ana, bleak
winds to summer suns and summer follaSe Is
a delightful surprise. II it chance with the
traveller, as 1t chanced with Mr.. Fem and the
writer, chat the steamer sal away from tae
,veo MID q
> Northern March, that all the way soutnWard
cloud and storm surround and beset, the YES
sci, and then at once come with the longed-tor
sun. the wished-for harbor, the sudden sweet.
ness and beauty of the scene will seem 70 MIN
transition to terrestrial paradise.
Because Charleston lies low, ana seems u 70
rise up out OF the waters as one sails up 10 IL,
it has been called the American Venice. u
NAV be doubted If one would think Of this
comparison If the ooks did not suggest
it. There are charm enoughtn the american
city to please even an experienced traveller.
but one would scarcely lind his appreclapon os
them enhanced by recalling the wonders OF
the Bride of the Adriatic. If In no true sense
Venice, Charleston yet rises with charmlhg
effect from the sea. The long, palm-studded
shores of the bay, the islands and forts tnat
dot its surface, the mansions that 'front.' tne
waters, and the spires that lift to the skies,
all make up q very pretty picture.
ton give is that of retiring respectabiitY.
There are no splendid avenues, no imposing
public structures, but few fine old churches,
and many noble private mansions standing IN
sort OF dingy stateliness amid their emboW-
ering magnoiias, command youTMattention:
Our New York custom, derived from our
Dutch ancestors, of painting our brick fronts
B not in vogue here, where the houses have
the sombre but rich tonlng that age alone can
give when Its slow penciilings are never dis.
turbed by the rude intrusion okthe painters
brush. The Charleston manh 9ns are nearly
always built with gable-end to me street. AT
one side rises "a tier of open verandas, Into
the lower Of which the main entrance 10 the
building is placed. Usually, after the English
fashion, q high brick walfencloses the. grounds
of the house, and 1t Is only through an open
gateway that one catches glimpse OF flowers,
and shrubs and vines. that bloom and expand
within the enclosure. But the rich dark green
of the magnolia half screens the unsmoothed
brick walls for above, and seems to hold the
ancient structure y the husR OF venerable ls e
repose.
faces and antique color of the brick houses IN
Charleston would fail to please the taste OF
Nertherners reared amid the supreme new
ness s-of our always reconstructing cities. BUT
every one ought to travel In the company OF an
artist. It ls only when associated With one OF
this instructed class that man discovers the
use Of his eyes, and begins to understand
fully the beauties and narmonies, and rich
effects that pertain to many things neglected
by ordinary observers. These tlme-tinted
tist, have many charms. In my ownaease
found It a good training to hear enthusiastic
Mr.. Fenr dilate upon this bit, Of color, this
gllmpse of rich .toning, this new and surprts-
ing effect It was even q revelation sometimes
to see HIN. extract q picture out'of apparently
the most unfaYorable material. Nothing, In
deed, seemed foreign to him but the merely
pretty. Sweet, new houses, of o respectable
primness have no attraction for his artistic
fongings. Fresh paint is his ab0mination.
The glare Of the new enters like iron into bis
soul. But q fine bit OF dilaptdattons ruin
With avine clambering over II. hut all awry,
With q group of negroes In their darlng tur-
bans set against the gaping walls, old chin.
neys and old roofs; the dark grays and browns.
that form Into such rich pictures IN an old
town, these things would be sure to catch his
eye and delight his fancy. In these SEMI
tropical places there are hundred bits that
would be admirable for 9 sketch In oil or
black and white. Itls.a pity that divine color
ccnnot enter into engraving.
The search for the picturesque. thai. would
meet the necessities Of our purpose was not
expeditions 1t Is only after walking c-ouHd
place, and surveying 1t from different situa-
tons, that an artist can settle upon his point
of view. We were three days in Charleston.
ere Mr.. Fem discovered the prospect from st.
Michaers belfry, and to this the readers atten-
ton is solicited. If he does not think nc very
good, shall be tempted to denounce his artls-
tic appreciation. Note the far stretch OF sea
and the long, low shores; there Is Fort sumter
far down the bay, and nearer the famous Cas-
tie Pinckney, a fortress that stands guard IN
the direct approach to the town. The portion
of the city which, this view commands Is lis
most ancient quarter. Many of the buildings
were erected in colonial times, and up to the
period of the Revolution this comprised nearly
the entire city, The chimney5 are OF quaint
fashion, and tho roofs are mostly OF grooved
red tiles. The Wide street to the left OF the
picture isthe Charleston Wall street, where
congregate all the banks and banking-houses,
brokers' offices and laW-off1ces. Here assem-
BILE the merchants and brokers; here are e1ect'
ed those transactions In commerce ana nnance
80 dear to the heart of the money-maklng
world. The building at the foot OF the street
Is the ancient customhouse, which during tne
recent war was rudey hustled by many an
irrevereht shell, uDcGTsmonlou battered py
ball and petard, and now stands broken and
shattered remlniscence of by gone belligeren-
81. This structure, which dates bach. before
the Independence OF the colony, is dear to the
Charlestonians. 1t has always excited their
patriotic sympathies. for here during the Revo.
luton the patriot prisoners were confined, and
from its portals the heroic martyr Hayne was
led to execution.
The old buildings that the church looks
down upon ore not more ancient than the
church ITSELF st. Michaeps was built In l752
r .l.-,.n NV, n n,Tlln ~ IN