The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1871-10-01
PARIS FASHIONS.
Inc Approach Of Winter Ushering in
the Modes for October.
conins Cortumes-B achelicks-M antles-v
Polunaise-The Franklin Coat: How
snd How to Wear It-Tha
Jacket Demi- Toilets
run Dress 'opnn
~srpEcity-Dinnsr
-Ssems and Jewels
PARIS, Sept Is, 1871.

! PARTS, Sept u.s. 1871.
There can be no hesitation about 1t; the articles
Of dress which IN this letter justly claim precedence
are warm mantles, wrappers. and those lnterme.
iaIe accessories which preserve one from chill and
the clamps" Very insinuatihg are the latter for
they never come IN their native shape which is
rheumatism and pleurisy. They appear as morning
dew or evening fog, be they spread over croquet
lawn. all along ones balcony or down by the 70.
mantle beach. take shawl on your arm, Elite,
uear," used TO be the old fashioned warning when
grown-up daughters believed in their mothers and
went about with douoed-up shawls on their arms.
But nous ATOMS change tout ceia,r young Elites
require no telling to take OF themselves nova
days. They throw a gray and white cape, having
silken lined hood on IT. their delicate shoul-
ders, and gather Its ieecy folds around the perfect
oval oil their faces IN q manner which Keeps horrid
things OF and proves Itself to be unto all
close admirers damper. This open cape is
called oaclteck, ana Is loosely woven with
tine Pyrenees or Shetland wool. II is fleece and
cloud in one, of the Red Riding Hood shape. Its
name IS often wrongly Interpreted by ladies who
have not much experience in foreign languages.
nave heard very weintenaoned persons ask In the
stores here for oatch-ohck; but ,nere is so
much suavity in the dry goods business just now
Mat slip OF the tongue Is not laughed at and for
tnnately the French do not realize meaning
when we talk OF licking. though they have had 1t
and mean TO return II.
AS rule
WINTER AND FALL COSTUMES
mciuue polonaise as jacket. or a casaque as q
cape, made OF the same material. Nevertheless,
everybody WIN insist on having a black outof- door
something that can be worn with everything and
anything. This ececticism in a matter OF nantes
Is me cause OF great deal 0. hidcous dressings Tor
10 humor It mantle makers have got to contrive
paniefs that VIII not crease, whatever they go
through; and when lady traveller opens her
trunk IAN elegant mantle" is sure 10 decorate
The top OF her baggage, and 1t is
about as spnghtly looking ecetera
as sprigs OF parsley - salmon, besides being as
useless. full dress asticle OF KIND that can
not he worn on everything Is velvet polonaise
quilted and lined with mauvc SILK. IL forms over.
skirt and bodice IN one, as 1t did when original
Poles STATED through cracoviennes with more
spirit than they do now. Only 1t is looped up elab
Crately with artistic loops and tassels and is
trimmed with lace.
The black corded silk redinoote, or
FRANKLIN COAT,
Is made with tals, Maps and deep pockets, also
Gentemanly vest In front. II Is wonderful how this
overcOat changes woman. There are many DIFF
ferent WAYS OF wearing it, too. II 1t is trimmed
with spirals OF black white lace, which fall over
the wrist round the pockets, down the front and
tails IL Is obvious that lady with an eye. glass on
and half-top boots scarcely any width Of pettcoat
and chimney-pot hat, will LOOK neither like man
nor woman. II she turns back the tails she will
look like one OF the Line with good march before
him. II she wears the tails parted behind she will
look like an elderly party who Is always warming
ms shins at the parlor IRE.
These positions are all false. Those who cannot
a Hron chpnld te n In,
fied-in straightforward, rafferty, style-and
above all things should put very few essentials In
The tail pockets IL Is rs much out or place see
lady dive down behind for her smelling bottle as 1t
would be to see clergyman in the pulpit produce
ian from under his oanonicals. The ncwcstfasnon
oil alland II can be full dress demI-fOuet accord
nmg-is
THE SLEEVELESS JACKET,
with overcape. IL Is made OF veivet, cloth and
black cashmere. 1t is braided Immensely. me
soonest part Of these '.coliets' is behind in this
Fashion, with her usual perception, only turns q
backward. In other respects she takes the lead
She is doing this very largely In peculiar drab
w N Wool great eea tn max snS, nsa
adhering effect which is Objectionable in the daily
n VIVA swu
shades shade o. drab and mouse gray Moral pattern
n ,s especla wn r morn ana myr
overskirt and .coller are all that Is required, the
under petticoat being either caret or maroon, dark
grass green or black corded silk. deep fringe OF
the mixed shades Trims the cape. The richest
DEMI TOILETS
are made OF satin delaine. Some have a stripe
which Is as glossy as SILK, on dull ground OF the
same TINT Others are ali satin delaine cloth, and
the prettest are dark green and dark chestnut The
pettlcoat to either OF these is trimmed with a wide
band oil darker velvet, and the overskrt with two
- noSa Win o pas VI. ohHu ,asn,on Aae uouice
square on the bosom. Stout figures should avoid
these new circular velvet trimmings sleeves are
AM do
with nounce
- LIGHT PoPLINs
are much worn on bright coiored peticoats checked
SILK pet;icoats are worn under basqued podices.
AND oversklr;s 10 these are made OF the darkest
Crosscuts and rolls, fat plaitings and Gounces are
the trimmings Tor all under petucoats Some OF
these Nat crosscuts reach ABOVE the knee Water
proof shawl costumes, with border and fringe but
particularly the lattice or rellis fringe, woven in the
material are very much In vogue. The preferred
shades are vol, bear, hons name. fox and other
herce "reminiscences. The lightest shades are worn
for demitoets and brides travelling dresses; WHITE
WIN pacR fringe and black velvet, are very elegant;
steel, siate silver gray are no less appropriate.
FULL DRESS
has now 10 be described, anu its dawn announces a
period VI costly outlay 10 which the empire mad not
accustomed amateurs. have observed, however,
that everything that is really gorgeous has been
made for foreigners, Tor court danes in
he European courts or for milhonnaires Six
ioranon OF the Orleans Princes ana the glores OF a
Venetian republic appear TO be the head OF petit
coat government nj present; Not one OF the names
chronIcled IN fashion tournaments OF the past has
been mentioned by the high lie journals here. The
queens VI the last are sitting IN the silences, and
the queens Oh The future are dreaming OF combina-
tons IN which iney comprise all extensive mixture
Of coors IL Is not possible TO say whether the pres
ent attempt made 10 appear yariegated VIII be
maintained but should ali frlls aud plaitings have
TO show bright SILK lining or piping underneath
and should all the richest roDes be made OF three
graduated shades. society will look ike pdrterTe
VI exo.lcs. There Il nothing new IN
DRESS HATS
since my last, excepting the way they are put on
that j. novel; They nave pokes, and their fronts
stand up as an lrlshman would say high back
showing all the parting OF the balr and-it liz
hoped ladies' Will not falnt-nat, lustrous, plain
bandeaux. .Malibran bandeauXv Is the pro.
per definition. can any pretty girl, who has
got into such a nice way OF waving, crimplng and
frizzling Der mont HAIR, fancy herself brushing
these VARIATIONS all down TO Malibran harmony