The New York herald., 1871-09-07
FALL FASHIONS.
Home Versus Foreign Nodistss-A Adaptabussy In
Toi'et-Ths First opening-Ls:est
Styles cardren's Dresses

been 70 long and anxi0usly looked for are at lass
making their appearance. American ladies, whose
admlrstion Of everything imported and alacri,y to
initiate foreign styles had almost become proven
blal are at last thoroughly awake to the facs thar
we have "home artistes, quite equal and even su-
perior to foreign ones, only needing proper appre-
ciation in order to enable them TO develop
their tastes and resources, and that, both singly
ana collectively, as Americans their dguity and
Independence demand that they shall accord that
appreciation ana become not only - fashion unto
themselves" but for the world. Hence the declded
ana Independent stand taken by our lashionables
ana the purifying revolution In toilet matters during
the last year. ga sD 4al-a aaf EhT
ADApTABniTy OF TOILET. ,,
NO lady can expect to dress becomngly wh0
adopts fashion without any reference to her own
peculiar STYLE The fashion may always be adapted
TO the individual but individuality should never be
sacrificed TO fashion goody proportion OF COM
mon sense, mOdcu um of fashion, good taste, indie
pendence and an appreciation OF ones good
and bad points in style and figure, are
the essentials necessary to the forma-
ton OF becoming toilet. There are certain little
secrets the art OF dressing which ladies' OF taste
seem to know by Intuition. They can tell at q
glance what will be becoming to them In the pre-
vailng mode, how TO adapt IL to tneir style, ana
will ndividuaNe the design, as It were, and yet re-
tain sucent OF Its characteristics to be In fashion,
The latitude allowed to Individual taste-albeit
necessarily governed by the prevailing idea-gives
varied anu pleasing efrect 10 our fashions which
they have never before possessed, prevents all UNI
formity and the assumption OF modes mai apropos
to the figure and style. A quiet, finished elegance
is la mode, and pervades all the fashionable Co.'S
tunes OF the season. Costllness In material and
garniture ia not obligatory, but the tout ensemble
must be perlec., suited to the wearer In style and
color ana adapted to the occasion. ,,s
THE FIRST OPENING.
In the beginning OF the month, accOrdlng 70 long.
established custom, one or the leading designers
and promulgators OF American fashion, had her
first autumn opening .
The charming summer designs, u1odined and I'm
proved, have glided naturally and easily in among
the styles for early fall and with the many decided
novelties presented variety that could not fail to
please fastldious and exacting taste. They were'
principally American Styles and possessed. IN an
eminent degree the rare qualities OF adaptability.
individuality and economy, united with chic which
are rarely found, though Thoroughly appreciated.
1t is hardly necessary to say that there no pros
pect OF decline IN the popularity Of cosrutnes
sue for street wear. ana We ind them made ny
more tastefully than ever and In marked avoidance
Of all p10nOnce styles. " l9eJ 1000 ls p a's
The prevailing style for tnese costumes Is skirt
and polOnaise, although the graceful overskirt,
accomp anled by stylish basque, or . 1annty
walking costumes Is sti retained BY all sensible.
right-minded ladies, and those who have adopted
ashamed or their mistake before the winter is over
ana be glad enough TO return to their allegiance 10
common sense and propriety, as represented 10 the
susceptible as 10 Is OF 40 many variations and well
ldpted to All seasons OF the year ana nearly all
materials is likely retain It's prestige for some
time to come, ana seems almost TO have been
adopted as national garment. iiSe the mantilla OF
SPAN universally Is II worn ana appreciated It's
graceful outlines are In marked Distinction TO the
stiii adhere to the short fnssy overskirts light
fitting Jackets anu narrow rufnes OF 1909. l. l-.t
baa soe aSrs,e ront the back oxtenIlnr
plain for short distance below the waist, like o
round basque with fulness In the seams below
forming mOdthe al puhs. variation OF this STYLE
the ''Beatuce,'' has deep box plaits laid under
meath, at the seams OF the side forms In the back,
looping disposed In points and caught up TO the
plas with gr0s grain ribbon bows. These are Doth
for suits Of poplin and silk. Then we nave what is
termed plain poonaIse, although the stylish loop
more bus u H mas the recom
mendation OF being stylish even when worn quito
PLAIN: Above ali we must not lorKet tle .Monsque-
street wear ana destined to be fayorlte with all
ladies OF taste. .flnrus. 9yi II
Basques are very nearly oil made with seam
down the middle Of the back. This causes them To
1t more closely TO the contour OF the back aud I'M
seem almost an impossIbty to devise anything
different from he stylish ones so fashi0uaby worn
during the summer; but the graceful "Felicla" the
the diStiague "May" prove that In basqucs, nc all
events. the inventive genius OF this aaodste Is yet
:" op''"''''A SLEEVES, o.eH oaV aeid
both close and nOwina sleeves Will still be worn,
nary use me "Duchesse n open for short dis- O.
tance on the outside seam, and the haii wide sleeve
T 'Ds seeve sed To- Ss ARM and ns
tIOn Of the ..eg-of-muttonp styIo will be In
vogue, both to be completed at the wrist BY pretty
style are the "wtnona'' and tho ..Norna," and IL
would be difIcul 10 decide which is the most beau
tiful They VIII both 10 found especially becoming
To slender figures. , y
skirts st ssil retain ther vogue Although lev short
ones are seen those aener0us In width and length
viii still maintain their ascendancy The ample
anu artistic lOopings impart an elegance TO them
Which II Is impossible 10 obtain In short ovcsklr
Conspicuous among the designs in this department
voted by all to be The most stylish 0yerskt OF tho
season. II IL an exponent Of style which viii
Ss aes ss S n Es Sacs In mont
The 'adustable' train is as much In favor a.
ever Swl1s IN to the inirodHcon Of 80 many new
0versKirt for a walking costune. II should never 4
be lined, and wneu worn as train should be at
rei" elicied much admiration for the ingenuity dis
played In its looping as an Overskir and vet It was
very simple, while essentially graceful when used
Tor either purpose
An exceedingly stylish garment, known a. the
rt F1. MARouIsE MANrI.B IAi rWT
10 be made In cashmere for Independent use with
variOus costumes for cool days In autumn. ts ". y
angeu with loose sacque, without sleeves, reach
ing about quarter OF yard below the walsf
slIghty fitted In the middle of the back, and worn
lnuer cape OF the same material reaching
10 the waist or q few inches below. This
,ape 10 frequently open up Tho hack TO the neck,
slth the corners rounded on and Louis XIII. bows
)f gros grain ribbon ornamcntnQ the opening. The
font corners are left square, and tho talnla falls
slightly apart In front, but the saeque must meet all
hc way down 10 be stylish. These manlles are TO
)e prolusely trimmed With braidin9 or passemen-
erie resembling 1t, which serves as heading to
lch fringe
Gray and brown cashmere VIII be almost as fash.
onably worn as black, the Drading 10 be OF the
,ame color, perhaps shade or two lighter Or
'arker. White on black will he very fashionable,
,ut gilt aud jsrdinlere color are reserved for car
'age wear.
The jaunty, slashed jackets, so much worn last
season, are not discarded however but are only to
DC worn in plain black. brown or pluul Color