The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1871-09-22
T He F A S HI o N S.
Fall Openings i'm the Me-
trOpOlis.
LATEST STYLES AND NEWEST MATERIALS.
Changes Since the Abolition of the Empire in
Paris-Numberless Varieties in Bonnets-
A Plea for American Fashions

seem as II the clerk OF the weather had a chronic
spite against the chameleon goddess; for he gene
rally spells her spring and fall receptions with
copious showers Although at present every
modtSte selects her opening day, without any
reference TO her rivals ana neIghbors, yesterday
may be accepted fair average date 70 rthe first
formal display OF fall styles In the metropolis.
Nearly ali the leading houses have re-
ceiyed their stock OF feminine frivolines from
Paris Uhey still cling to that sorely
punished capital as in days OF yorel and
Sbose whe are enterprisn2 enough to think and in.
vent for themselves without any reference TO Euro
pean tastes have all their fancy notions for the fan
on exhibition. Regarding this Paris arrangement
few words OF explanation are necessary. No one
can deny the exquisite taste OF French women In
matters of dress; but no one viii uphold the opinion
that IL is absolutely necessary FOR American women
follow Dlindly the dictates OF their Gallo sisters
The sooner this bugbear OF Paris fashions is entirely
removed the better. Why should not American women
be guided by their own Judgment ana taste in their
toilet and not wait Tor the dctum OF Partisan
Dsodtste or the within OF a class OF females beyond
tae who are anything but respectable9 Yet
mihners IN New York will hold out bravely, despite
the momentous events OF the past year, for Paris
fashions During The dark days of the Prussian in
vestment and the still darker days Of the Commune
regime, our leading pdfveyofs q fashion persisted
-9eeSSs .p.y ASH hom AuiiSs AHo
principle at any time Is entirely wrong, as 1t Is
concession of an absence Of taste IN dress among
American ladies. Or course, common sense has
rarely any aniation with fashion, hut such
monstrous error accepting every thing that comes
from Paris without question Is decidedly
wrong. Half the styles that sent
10 from that city have their origin
with persons whose names should not be mentioned
IN polite society. Even IN the days OF the empire the
queen OF taste, Eugene, knew nothing about the
greater part OF the stuff sent here ''the latest
styles" We thought that the Franco German war
and the humiliation Of the Court OF the Tueries
would have taught naodstes sense, put they are
closely allied to their idols as ever. Even the
heathen Chinee Will acknowledge at times that his
Mol Is cheating him, and viii put rope around Its
neck and drag 1t ANONYMOUSLY through the streets
after him. But New York naodste will cling to her
Partisan deity through thick ana thin, and ignore
history and Its revolutions with the utmost noncha
lance.
AMERICAN STYLES.
The pOlonaise Is, par excellence the garment Of
the season for costumes, and has been promoted TO
che dignity OF dinner toilet also, for which 1t is
even more fashionably worn than the basque
and 0verskirt But how to decide on the most It's
StNgue and graceful and which shall be honored by
being named as the favorite9 Here we have the
'Leoline," with its deep Louis XIV. vest puttoned
N the way down, ITS back tight hitting, simple In
CONSTRUCTION, yet rendered exceedingly stylish by
she artistic looping; the "Mossquetare,n short In
ront, almost like basque; the back long,
pou8dn, with jaunty position and O sleeve
which gives it its name. Then the "Griselda" and
lhe "Depnine" each possessing interesting
points; the Beatrice" the "Berenice,n the Her.
nosa' and the Agatha" and so on through whole
catalogue Of names and designs, till one is almost
bewndered with the variety, and IS obliged to
mon oil ones taste and decision tn make iudlcious
selection. Many or these are In what Is known Ms
the marguerite style, the back extending plain,
axe round basque, and the desired conbom ap-
pearance below These Will be the leading styles Of
Inc season.
For cloth and velvet the long pelisse, plain, with
out looping, Will have many admirers, and FOR some
figures Is especially becoming.
BASQUEs.
Although the poonaise has acquired such Q
prestige let not be understood that basqucs are 10y
any means excluded. IL would seem that long ere
this every device for cutting these aunty garments
had been exhausted; but at each opening we look
for and expect something new, something stylish,
and we invariably find the supply equal to the de-
mand. Long, short pointed, square, puned, plain,
round, slashed, with vests ana without, for house
and for costumes each prettier than the other,
this for slender 1gure, that one for the stately
Dame tending toward e1noOnpotnt each may suit
her individual TASTE be entirely different in style
trom her friend or neighbor and yet be in the
fashion. Decidedly the favortes OF the day are the
"Justlne," May" adelaide Cora" Elaine"
aud ''Else'-all as pretty as their names, ano by
the general verdict pronounced 'stylIshn which -
supposed to be all tnat Is necessary 10 new design
70 Insure IT'S success.
Wlth basque an overskirt is almost lndispensa-
BILE, although plain, demi-train skirt, with SHORT,
becoming basque, is now considered exceedingly
witch mas been SO long in vogue is Just suited me
soft materials OF the season, and retains
us prestige, individual taste deciding The qaaatiy
skirts, and III many OF the polonases aso is the ex-
ceedingly plain appearance In front ard at the
this style is the Ednetta,S and another Known as
the 'Euaier each of which elected their full share
oi admiration while the Carolyn ana Geneva
and "Hesperia,n all graceful and all novel, had
their especial adherents.
Next in favor 10 the polQnalse, now that the cool
days are coming on, Is the
MARoUIsg MANTLE,
for cashmere, which has 10 great extent taken the
place OF the Jaunty, itte slashed jackets although
they have not entirely lost their prestige. THIS Is
sort OF sacque, over winch is worn talma, both
heavily braided OF embroidered. A variation of this
NJ the stuart Mantleo which Is double talma, tue
Sppsr one with douSe Waea8 PAt IN The n,
nispensable adjunct OF all trousseaux for ths
season OF the year, Is known as the BROAD.
way and Is loose sacque, without sleeves
which, however. may be added II desired, with a
,alma extending across the DaK onty at The shout
seams and arnhoies leaving the 'front.' part which
II rounded, TO ia over the arm, alording an ample
Vatican plnlt, not deep enough 10 add much u the
weight but imparling Just sGiclent fulness to pre-
vent the drawn appearance, which is ungracelul.
Another stylish design is a oose.ntting Gabrielle,
buitoned down the front, ana finished with half
wide sleeves aud round hood and still another
fayoriie style is a circle skirt without any fulness
nj The belt buttoned oown the front and worn with
. short loose paletot, reaching Just over the Dlps
and siashed at the sides. But the GROWING point Of
the toilet Is
LOVE or BONNET,
ana there is no one adjunct Of the grand whole that
Ar 10 little liable 20 be sighted Inc color OF the
costume may be season old. ana tie casaquc or
OveIskirt of the sumo date or the trimmings little
out OF style AMI yet excite but Ittle notice; but II
lie bonnet be mol Of the newest shape ana possess
abe requisite CHIC, the whole toilet no matter
now stylish novel, will be voted p0Sse,
5be coqueJtl-h bOuuets OF last season, so
ODiversauy becoming 10 youthful l0Veliness
mo Uatronly beauty. and, even impartlng plquant
charm to nnnlstakably PLAIN features, have merged
themselye into various new shapes which, attn ough
perhaps not so generally becoming viii yet be the
fssniou permitting full scope for the display OF
aividual taste IN udlclous selection. Many OF tue