New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1871-03-14
NEW PUBLICATIONS.
NATHANIEL. HAWTHORNE IN ROME.

The current series of this popular Magazine con-
tans course of extracts from the journals of Mr..
Hawthorne describing his first impressions of France
and Italy in the style of frank and easy confidence
which gives such charm 20 all his personal COMES
sons In the last number we have an account OF MS
experience in Rome, which was by no means IN mar
mony with the rose-coloved descriptions IN which
American and English travellers usually indulge
when expatiatng on the destinations OF the Etelil
CITY He arrived in Rome in the month Of February,
which is generally considered the finest season IN the
tickle climate of Italy, but it struck chill to his
heart from which he scarcely recovered during his
residence in that world of enchantment.
We have in Rome fortnight to-day, rather at
II O'Clock tonight and have seldom or never spent so
wrctched time anywhere. Our impressions were very
unfortunate arriving at midnight, hall frozen IN the
hotel. where we shivered during two three days;
meanwhile seeking lodgings among the sunless, dreaIy
day after another had pierced 10 the heart and cut
me in twain, as with sword keen and sharp, and poi
soned at point and edge. did not think that cola
weather could have made Inc so very miserable Having
caught feverish influenza, was really glad OF helng
mufled up comfortably in the fever heat Inc atno-
sphere certainly has peculiar quality OF malgnancy.
After day two, settled ourselves In su'S .,
second piano, OF this house. The rooms thus Jar nav
been very uncomfortable ii being Impossible 10 M
them by means Of the deep old fashioned lnartl1Slai
fre-paces. unless had the great logs OF NeNEnS
land forest burn in them; so have sat IN my cor
by the treside with clothes ON than ever WITo
before: and my thckeSt greatcOat over all IN Ine @
of The dav Generally venture for an hour or two
but have only once been warm enough even in the sun
shine and out OF the sun ueVera any uhe, uiuo4
new the force Of that story of DOgcnes when ne asked
the Conoueror as the only favor he could do hun, TO
stand cut his sunshine there being such mi
i'm these southern clmes OF Europe between sun alg
shade. III my wits had not been too much conEea.tu
and my fingers too numb should IKE 70 naSe HCI
mast fortnight II would have shown modern Rome ~ an
aspect in which it has meyer SeI ReS And the rst
freshness OF my discomfort has worn on 50 'hal snd
never be able to express how dislike the place ana now
wretched have been in II ana soOn SulpOse' WINE
weather will come and perhaps recohcie me 10 ho1le
mean-lOoklng wbte-washed houses. sour-bread, pave
ments most uncomfortable to the teet enormous prices
for poor living: begCars pckpOcketS ancient temples
and broken monuments, ana clothes hanging TO oIy
about them; French soldiers monks ana priests oil every
decree a shabby population, smoking bad cicGrs-these
would have been some OF the points Of my description
OF course there better and nicer things to be said
The attractions of the Roman streets fade into
thin air under the sincere pen of the observing
American realiSt.
cannot get fairly into the current of my journal since
We arrived and already perceive that the nice pecu-
liarteS of Roman life passing from my notice hei0re
have recorded them IT Il very gIeat Pc! During
through the narrow stony streets tat Iooh NoIe iI
The worst backsde lanes Of any other cy ndescrbaDy
ugy and disagreeabe they without sidewalks. hut
To a other along which there is somewhat Iess
uneasy walking. Ever aud anon, even In the meanest
streets-thOugh generally speaking one can hdidy be
called neancr than anOther-we pass palace, extend
lag along the narrow way on line with the other
houses but distinguished by its architectural WINDOWS
irOu-harred OF he basement STORY ana ~ ilS 1t
through which we have ghmpses-sometmeS OF a dity
courtyard or perhaps OF clean ornsmehteu one, WIN
trees, cOiOnnade fOunta ana statue III the VISTA
though more likely, it resembles the enraneetO stable
and may, perhaps really be one Inc lower regions q!
nalace come TO strange in Rome. In the basement
story the Barberi palace regiment OF French sol
diers COR soldiers Of some kId seems to be quartelSH
while no doubt princes have magnificent dOnlclles
above. BE it palace or whatever other dwcng the III
mates climb through rubbish often 10 the comforts such
they may he, that await thein above. NanN U TO
gct down upon paper the drCarinc the uglness, sAa-
bineSs, unhOme likeness of Roman street.
With regard to the discomforts of Rome in Win
ter on account of the almost total absence of even
toleratle arrangements for artificial heat Mr. Haw-
thoTne remarks:
Ihave not yet fairly begun the sightseeing of Rome
have been four or times St Peters and always
with pleasure, because there IS such deShtul sum
nerke warmth the moment we pass beneath the heavy
padded leather curtains Gat protect the entrances II Is
almost impossible not TO believe that TINS senlu teipe
ture il the result OF fuTnaceheat Dut, ediY IL ~ ~
warmth OF last Summer, which VIII be included WITHIN
those massive walls and in that vast immensely or space
ill., six months hence, ts NiI'tI Ciill WI i - t
made its way hither II would De an excellent pan lCf
vaetudinaran TO lodge during the Winter III 81 Peters
perhaps establishing his household in Of the uapal
fombs become, think, more sensible 0 inc ~, OF -
IL is not expects, big al ont OF dooI nor
its dome immense that of the armament III looked
oueer however the other day. 10 see little ragged Do
the very least Of human beings goHgrou ana kcehS
at shrine after shrne and group OF children standns
ON tptoe 10 reach the vase Of holy wafer On coming
out of ST. Peters at my last visit saw great sheet OF
ice around the fountain, on the rG hand ana some III
inst for The sake of doing what never thought do in
Rome This Indictment weather, should suppose must
make the whole city very mserable fCr the native Eo
am told, never keep any IRE EXCEPT Tor culinary
purposes. in the scverest WINTER lhe{ nee rom
their cherries houses into tho open arr ana brg htf
fresdes along with them. in the shape OF small earthern
vases, or pipkns, with handle 10y Nhlch uley C3iI
them up and down the streets, and so warm at least hrr
hands, with the lighted charcoal nave had gmP'es
dismal as tOmbs. Wherever pass my Summers let me
spend my Winters in a cold country
The scenes at the Carnival to be present at which
most American tourists are willing TO 90 through
fire and water were not at all to Mr. Hawthorne
taste and he confesscs the fact with inimtabe can
dor.
Day before yesterday We took j and R in car,
riage, and went to the Carnival by driving up and
down the CorsO. II ugly day, respects weather
with ndecsive wet which finally settled into rain;
and people say that such is generally the weather III Car
nva time. There very little to be said about the spec
tace. Sunshine would have improved IT, no doubt but
person must have very broad sunshine within himself
10 he tovous on such shallow provocaton The street at
all events would have looked rather brilliant under
sunny sky the balconies being hung with bngtcolored
drapcres which also flung out OF some OF the win
dows Soon had my first experience OF the Carnival in
handful Of confetti right Slap in my face Many Of the
ladies wore loose white dominoe and Of the gentle
men had defensive Of bouscs and wire masks
needless one received shot in my right eye which
Thouch often disregarded By Americans and English)
not fling confetti al ladies' or al nOcOmDdtants or
0uiet ISLANDERS and the engagements with these mis-
siles were generally between open caII1ges nanneH
with youths, wAO were provided with cDQH Tor slcn
one real enemy the Coro for former friend Mira
T there and often as we passed and repaSsed
her she favored with handful Of lime. Two or three
fines somebody by the carriage and pulled forth
shower Of winged seeds through tube into faces and
over our clothes and IN the course OF the afternoon we
were hit with perhaps half-ad)1en sugar,pluns; Po--
SHY we may have received our iar share OF these
last salutes for j had on black mask, which made
him look ike imp OF SATAN and drew many vOeys OF
roUG,f that we might otherwise have escaped go0d
many bouquets nung at our little Il, ana az us
Generally. This was what is called masking day, when
H Ia the rule to wear masks In the Corso but the great
majority Of people appeared without thel Two ihias-
10 cfe with enormous heads, set round with frlZly