The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1871-01-18
The Manufacture of Jewelry.

The manufacture of iewelry is OF very ancient
origin, and was known to most of the nations oil
antiquity. The Egyptians wore rings and chains
| of unique workmanship, and they were well ac-
ouainted with the mysteries of the crucible and
the blow-pipe. Aaron, the Jewish High Priest,
wore a breast plate set with precious stones. He
was also adorned with a c%arcanet, or collar OF
Jewels. The people of Tyre were also skilful
workers in gold and silver, and many of them
were employed at the building OF Soiomons lem
pie, in craving and working out curious devices
In the precious metals.
In former times most articles of jewelry were
| made of fine metal, and the standard OF excellence
was obtained when the quality was pure, and
tie workmanship of the best description. At
present, cheap jewelry is the rage, aud in several
large towns, both in the United States and Eu-
rope, vast quantities of cheap articles are pafmed
off upon the unsuspecting purchaser as genuine
gold.
Edinburgh, in Scotland, is the seat of a very
extensive trade in the better varieties of jewelry,
and has something like thirty or forty large es-
Adjustments, that employ numerous workmen,
many of whom are skilled artizans. Most Of the
work turned ont in these shops is of a very su-
perIor kind. at Birmingham, England, gold and
silver of a standard quality are used to a large
extent, but for cheap and snowy articles, which
are also produced very extensively these are al
Logged with a considerable proportion of copper
or other sinferior metals.
The Swiss and the French are remarkably ex-
pert workers in the precious metals, as.weH as
In artificial stones, and o1Oide, or imitation gold.
In genuine articles of jewelry, the French ~artizans
exhibit a taste and a richness of design far in
advance of any other people. In the manufacture
of ormolu also, which is made entirely from brass
but which, by a chemical process, is given the
appearance OF gilt, they display Il skill and pa
thence which place them IN the very front rank Of
the trade.
Byzantine jewelry, which is of a very rich and
,,p,ona pattarn xraa Erot rna6a IN tln Aob..
'Constantinople. 1t allows of profuse adornment,
fanciful designs, and great delicacy of finish. 1t
is decidedly the most elegant and snowy of the
multitudinous styles that have come down to us
from the people of ancient Europe. !
The process by which Jewelry is manufactured,
is much the same in both Europe and America,
and does not differ materially from the plan which
has been pursued for thousands of years. The
operative melts his ore in a crucible, and casts it 1
into ingots, about two inches wide, three inches
long, and one-eighth OF an inch thick. This is
the usual size for gold, silver, or brass but some
of the other metals are made thicker or thinner,
as circumstances may require. The ingots are
reduced in, thickness by being passed between
steel rollers. The metal sheets are taken in
charge by workmen, who, being guided by their
patterns Or drawings, cut the sheet according to
the style of articles to be made. The pieces and
signs are then given to other operatives, who put
them together. The latter workmen are seated
at large work tables, with everything convenient
to their hand, and with suitable provision for the
preyentionof waste of material. After the pieces
are made the. required size, they are soldered
by an oxyhydrogen blow-pipe. 1t is
essential that the workshops have plenty of light
and ventilation.
1t is truly wonderful to witness the nicely OF
that is employed in the embeliish-
ment of. brooches, bracelets, earrings, and all
articles that require ornate display. Filagree, or
inlaid work, is particularly dificult of execution.
precious stones, pearls, &C., are
wrought together to such minute patterns as to
require several hundred pieces to complete the
whole jewel. These must be fitted with great
e~xactness, and the most expert lapidarieS are
required to do it.
Stones set apart for the purpose are first cut
with a revolving disc of iron, coated with emery,
but well Oiled. After being thus roughly shaped,
each piece is separately attached to the . gum
stick /" with strong cement, and, held in this way,
Is ground on a rapidly revolving and finer disc.
When made of suitable shape, the several pieces
ire set in the proper ap~ertures with shellac. !
After the cement has hardened, the lapidary :
'mooths down the rough outer surface of the peb- :
by grinding, in this way reducing the stone /,
% the level of the metal which surrounds it. 1t !,
s subsequently, polished, and is then ready for
EbE 7
The exposed surfaces of jewels arc usually re- /
e - a#I El A- 80. " - A ~ 81