Rutland weekly herald. [volume] (Rutland, Vt.) 1859-1877, 1871-11-30
mo. l0l
What a Mere hant Saw OF Europe.
GRANADA, SPAIN,
WednesdaY. March %. 1871.

given Us welcome Sufficiently cordial to
allay the trepidation which travellers have
much reason to feel when they penetrate
her mountain recesses. Were we to pass
judgement upon the people with whom
we have come in contact, tbus esrly 10
our visitation, t'would tax my mind to
Gull invectives sufficiently condemnatory.
Monday morning we dropped anchor in
the harbor of Malaga and fully one mile
from shore. The same infesting boatmen
gathered about us, disposed to take ell
that could be exacted in their nefarinu4
traffic. There is no reason why cur ship
should anchor so far away, but these deg
peradoes compel it and thus compel us to
their clutches. We each have a hand
valise, and when we have landed proceed
to the custom house A swarm of foul
looking wretches beset us, some begging
pittance and others anxious to do Us
service. Finally we give few needy look
ing creatures the chance to earn an honest
penny. One man to each of our light valises
and we have not proceeded fifty yards
when we perceive that instead of three
men we have six. As beat we can, we tell
them we shall not pay the interlopers.
Tis three blocks from the landing to the
hotel, and the party of six proceed TO our
selected parlor with the luggage. What
shall we give them I asked of William.
About two piastres' 40 cents he said.
l tender them that sum which they in
dignautly refuse as insulting. The leader
of the gang scowls molestingly and with
presumption beyond precedent demands.
das duros two dollars. We refuse to
pay, and the crowd who were sNch lamb
like petitioners when we first saw them,
are now the assumed masters of tn situ4-
tien. Threats are made in Spanish, and
we are assured by the landlord of the
hotel that he would not dare so interfere.
and we had better get out of bad Job a.
best we could. finally Qsro them thirty
reals ($150l which paoffi4d but ty no
mears satisfied them. A German gentle
man who bad two fellows carry his valise,
compromised at one dollar and had to
show the soouuGrels out of bis room TO
get rid Of them. They drew knife to
menace him, and it seems TO have left
decidedly unpleasant reocolleotions, for
he has kept clear of all dark corners. and
assures US be wants to leave Malaga ~
first train.
We visit Mr.. Juan Kreisler, to whom
we have introductory letters, and are
most kindly received. He sends his clerk
as our guide about the city, and we 60 To
the monster cathedral which Is alone not
able for its immepsity.I 1t s a conglomera-
ton of architecture, constructed in 1923.
The facade is the most attractive of any
of its parts. consisting rs it Ices of two
tiers OF Coriuthiau marble columns. We
do not feel 10 the spirit of sight seeing.
and return to our hotel where we meet
the Frenchmap referred to II a recent let
from TAngier. I invite him to our psr~
lor, where he meets the German gentle-
man, but prefers not to speak tn him. se"
bitter il his hatred of the Germans. We
quaintauce to learn that the ca9averou~
specimen is character no 'other than
Earnest Railan, secretary of the pUovis-
ionsl government at BordeaH. The G. IT,
man is one of that number expelled fr on
Paris by tho violent and enraged treGrh-
men. We find him quite cultured fell
low, with more brain than heart. FIei.ch
is his name, and since he speaks Spanish,
we welcome him as our companion 80
Granada. Tuesday morning wgo we up
with the SUI end depart from b. lsg4 by
the French built railway, hence - Boha-
dila. We are almost st ca ce nah cred into
the garden of Spain.
The Moors who so long held pos session
here are said to have pronounced Aud4-
lusia a spot dropped from Heaven which
goes far to prove their lively sense OF ap-
probation. The valley we trav araed IL
prodigal with varied verd Wheat
fields almost ready for the ma rvesfer'e
sickle; orchards feeding tbs We With
beauty and soenting the air with tropical
blossoms; the oraage burdeDsf cees. the
aloe. palm and tlas priskly peer 1. Lin.
pid meanderipG streams purify the pic.
turs, completed by verd orets4 III sym
metrical outline of Ihe mighty 81 ezra Ne
vadas which frame it rnnssivelT- We set
no growing corr, or oats and but LITTLE
barley. At the various stations we tarry
a few mono ats, and never fai to sag 6
swarm of those hungry fu0@ oormor
ants who live by exactior. The peas
ants, even these who work IN tho fields
have With th,snn pistol knife Al d gun
this hardly rseada comment--th@ necessity
is tie occas'tDn. 1t ia not land of peace
VIE are travelling. Armed soldier on oul
train and we observe them on ot3r r trains
which pass ug, while more are tn be seer
! (always In pairs) at each statioza. After
an hou rs ride we mike a gradaAl ascen
of tb . mountaine, and DOW rOssins
iron bridges, geze to dizzy depths
belo'R. Now comes a suceassi IN o
thirteen great tunnels undei tbs
lofty mountains. Crossing the shssm'
from one mountain 10 epoSs OF VA catct
! glimrse eff their wild snd ragged cav
efns. IT'S a novel ride. ass ure you. We
are really crossing from mountain t.
| mountain, and at an altitude most surk 'ris
ing. We cannot wonder that rsilw sy
travel In Spain is 90 expensive with sush
barriers to be surmounted and such in
pedimer.ts to be overcome. Wepay So 0a
Spanish gold from Malaga to Granada.
and are not disposed to grumble when we
are told this line of rail cost $780, 900
reals, or, 100000 Spanish gold dollars.
The investment surely cannot be rerumer-
ative.
At BobsdiEla, We change cars and break
| fast szi,nnc, the maintains Nav WA sra