Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1871-11-04
FASHION,.
A Departure, not Of Parisian origin, In
the world of Fashion this Winter.

| The approach OF dark, damp and chilly
days has turned the attention of our mo-
distes to ladies' spPsrel Of comfortable
as well "a attractive sort for the winter
months. Paris is no longer able TO die
| tate the fashions of the world. This is
peculiarly true Of the western world,
| where we have iuaugursted and main
tained successfully fashions of our own
| that are not only the equals OF those Of
Paris origin, but far excel them in the
great features Of true taste, originality
| and sdaptsbility to our wants. 1t adds
considerably to our responsibility and dig
| nifty to be able to dictate our own fash
| ions. II there Is q valid reason why
Europe should not receive their fashions
from Us, as well as receiving their vict-
usls and most of their valuable ideas, We
would like to know it.
| THE PoLoNAIsE.
As rule, winter and fall costumes iu-
Guiding polonsise as a Jacket or q csssque
/ as q cape, made Of the same material.
Nevertheless, every body insists on having
q black out Of somethiug that can be worn
with everything and anything. 4 full
dress article of this kind, that cannot bs
| worn on everything, Is velvet polonaise,
| quilted and lined with msuve silk. 1t
/ forms overskirt and bodice in one, as it
did when original Poles sksted through
| crac0viennes with more spirit than they
do now. Only it Is looped up elzborstely
with artistic loops and tsssels, and is
| trimmed with lsoa.
The prevailing tints will be sober. A
/ rich brown in hats and gloves seems TO be
accepted ss 3 general rule. The style in
colors are to be as Laertes expresses &c,
" rich, Dot gsudy," The simple dtetatn Of
the
PRINUEss OF THE NODE
! In regard to the tout ensemble OF ladies'
winter apparel, is liberal in its terms, ami
allows much freedom to the individual
choice,
FROM PARIS
we hsye what Ia most likely to be gener-
ally adopted. A black corded silk redi7-
cote, or Franklin coat, is msoe with tails,
| fisps and deep pockets, also gentlemGnly
vest in front. 1t Is wonderful how this
overcost changes a woman, There sre
! msny different ways of wearing 1t, too. II
it is trimmed with spirals Of blsck or
white lace, which fall over the wrists,
around the pockets, down the front and
tails. il IL obvious that a lsdy with an eye
glass on and half top boots, scarcely any
width OF petticoat, and chimney-pos hat,
will look neither like q man nor woman.
II she turns back the tails she will look
like one Of the line With good march be-
fore him. If she wears The tails parted
behind, she will look like an elderly party
who Is always warming his shins at the
parlor fire.
These positions are all false. Those who
cannot resist Franklin should wssr It q
Is Vicar of Wakeneld-in a strsightfor-
ward, fsthsrly style-Snd, above all
|, things, should put very few essentials IN
the tail pockets. It is ~ much out OF
place to see lady dive down behind for
her smelling-bottle as II would be TO see 8
clergyman In ths pulpit produce ran
from under his csnOnicals. Paris will not
be able to coerce our ladies' into 81
adoption Of these fantasies without bet
ter reason than that Of giving extra vork
TO the mantua-makers. We are freel and
the withering glories and collapsed power
Of the French capital viii fail TO thrust
: between as and our better taste deform
, ity like that described.
A NRw THna
The newest fsshion-snd It can be full
dress or demi-toilet, according 10 the 90
lection made of material and thinning
Is the sleeveless jacket, with overoape.
It Is made Of velvet, clothisnd black cassi'
: mere. Ths cape Ia open down the back
therefore, the handsomest part OF tnes'
acollets" Is behind. In this, Fashion
with her usual perception, only turns {
cold shoulder TO tbs spirit OF the times
which IN backward In other respects shs
takes the lead. she Ia doing this yery
= LARGELY In peculiar drsb serge, In which {
l great deal of FAX IL mixed with the wool
! 70 prevent that clinging, sdhering effec'
which Is Questionable in the daily walk
OF nfe, and when the wind blows. Il
: makes up very richly. 1t is worked will
a two harmonious shades of drab and nous
gray, q forAl pattern being preferred
eepecaally white thorn and myrtle, thi
: blossoms being Wbitssh drsb. A bodies
and overskirt and "colls.p are sll that Il
q required, the under-pettcoat being eithe
1 n
: black corded silk. A deep fringe of tn
Q mixed shades trims the cape.
4 pAAI-ToILzrs.
= Tbe richest demi-toilets are made o
satin delain. Some have q stripe, whiel
Is glossy Is silk, on dull ground OF tn
same tint. Others are all satin delail
cloth, and the prettiest are all green an
dark chestnut. The petticost to either o
these is trimmed with 3 wide band Q
y darker velvet, and the overskirt with tw
deep braids. but pus on olrcular fashion
The velvet figures q square on the bosom
stout figures should avoid these new cil
cular velvet trimmings. Sleeves are a.
pagodas, or tight to the elbow, and sr
made with dounce.
MISCELLANEOUS.
It would be preposterous TO look for
change in furs. In that respect u
mOdistea have very little infuencS
Another class of people rule there. Th
II correct thing always is simplicity
B Candy furs, with fantastic trimming
q were never much In fayor--stin less I
o the present time.
= Gross cuts and rolls, dat plaitings an
If aeunces are tAe trimmings tor all undel
q netticoats. Some OF these nat oas-cul
Il. reach above the knee.
n waterproof shawl costumes, with bol
n aar and fringe, bat particularly the lsttiG
,S ar treIlis fringe, woven In the materis
,e are very much in vogue. The preferre
shades are wolf, bear, lions name, fox an
other aerce "reminiscences. The n6hte
L. shades are worn tor demi-toilets an
Ds brides' travelling dresses; white, vii
g black fringe and black velVets are Vel
Ie elegant; steel, slate and silver gray are J