Worcester daily spy. [volume] (Worcester [Mass.]) 1850-1888, 1871-07-24
Letter from Martha's Vineyard,
IcoRREsPoNDENcE OF THE DAILY sPr.l
OAK BLUFFS

OAK BLUFFS,
Martha'S Vineyard, July 81, 1871.
This is a place to ''see the ships go BY" for
here all the coasting vessels that do business
from New York to Boston and eastward pass
close by, as, coming from the ocean at the east,
they pass into the Vineyard sound some six
miles wide, opposite here, or, sailing to the east,
they pass out upon the ocean, and go sailing off
till they gradually slip down the horizon and
out of sight tits grand spectacle to sit at the
door of cottage, or out on the bluff, and see all
these sloops, schooners, brigs, barques and
steamships constantly passing-a spectacle that
a landsman can look upon by the hour without
tiring always novel, ever new. From twenty
to fifty sail are usually in sight at once; and,
after a northeast storm of some days duration
has headed off all the eastern bound vessels, and
they have taken refuge in Vineyard Haven,
| some three or four hundred in number ofttimes,
they come sailing out in grand procession, and
one may count from the bluff two or three hun
dred in full view at once, and as they constantly
disappear over the distant horizon, the pointed
tops of the sails just passing over the edge give
the appearance of pclzeted fence, so closely are
they together apparently, and yet they may be
miles apart. The Portland and the Boston
steamers are, two or more, passing every day, and
add to the variety of the curious and interest
ing spectacle
/ Vineyard Haven formerly called Holmes
Hole) is in the northeast corner of the island,
and is one of the best and safest land locked
harbors on the coast, where hundreds of vessels
A.,
Here was the old camp meeting wharf, some
mile and a half from the grounds. When the
| Oak Bluff corporation commenced their opera
tions, they projected a nice wharf on the east
side of the island close to the village and but
few rods from the camp ground. The camp
meeting association, seeing the convenience and
Jealous of the advantage that should accrue to
the Oak Bluff corporation from this arrange
ment, at great expense built new wharf short
distance north of the other, calling it camp
meeting landing, which is just as much far
ther from their own ground than the Oak Bluff
landing as it is distant from that wharf, and so
mountaineering themselves, and confusing
travellers by compelling the steamers to make
two landings so near together. The old wharf
inside the haven is not now used by the steamer,
except in case of rough weather that makes it
difficult to effect landings at the outside wharves
The camp N Getting association have laid
nice wide plank walk from their landing to the
IN Getting ground, and are generally quite enter
prising in their improvements, lest the gentiles
of the bluff should Guido the saints within the
gates.
On the opposite side of the haven is quite
village, called also Vineyard Haven, as it was be-
fore called Holmes Hole the headquarters of quite
fishing and coasting business,a very pleasant
quaint, old fishing town, built on for these parts
quite sharp rising ground, that gives it very
pretty look as seen from the steamboat. Be-
sides lis churches, windmills and lighthouses, it
has female seminary, nice vineyard, and an
old lady who believes in hens, and publishes
pamphlets of what she calls poetry, reciting the
lives, virtues, death and burial of her favorite
chickens with barbarian names. She also is a
proficient in shell work, making flowers,
wreaths, bouquets, etc, that are really quite
tasteful, and which, being DESTROYS to sellIfor
consideration, she finds a good market for
among the visitors. This village is a pleasant
three miles drive from the bluffs over tie sand,
or a more pleasant sail of SIX or eight miles in
boat, and the steamer makes regular landings
at its wharf. There are five hotels and board
ing houses which are well patronized by those
summer visitors who like to dwell in ceiled
houses. Carriage excursions are made to Ed
gartown, some eight miles distant in the south
east corner of the island, which is the shire
town of this island county, or it can be pleas
antly reached by water. The steamer goes
there daily, and plenty of sail boats are readily
found for the trip.
The great excursion here, however, is the one
to Gay Head by water, some twenty-four miles
10 the western pointof the island, and renowned
for its curious, bright colors OF clay that lay in
different strata and rise in the bluff to quite an
elevation, presenting very wonderful and un-
paralleled sight among the wonders of the earth
| If you go by steamer excursion in good weather,
it is very fine, or by schooner or sail boat if
| wind and weather are fair; but when rough
weather makes all sea sick, or Gains keep you
out an extra unproyided for day, 1t cetainly is
not SO funny.
Excursions to Nantucket are also common
and very pleasant. Fishing excursions are, of
course, of daily occurrence, and the blue hsh
ing here in its season is one of the most excite
ing of fishing experiments, and the luxury of
eating, well cooked, these fresh caught fish, is
one that at Worcester we cannot realize.
Fish are cheap here, and all other edibles quite
| reasonable; some, cheaper than at home, and
| the cost of living to those who own cottages is
| quite reasonable. There are number of good
bakeries that furnish bread pies and cakes daily,
and baked beans, piping hot, with warm brown
| bread every Sunday morning. Berries and fruit
are plenty, as are also milk, butter and eggs,
and those keeping house need not do much
cooking. Eating-houses, boarding-houses and
hotels are in good supply, and one can live from
these quite reasonably. Some dozen or twenty
Stores with provisions, groceries, furniture fur
nishing and fancy goods are ready for the wants
OF all customers. As living and comfortable
enjoyment is the main business here everything
is naturally conducive to that end, and no other
business engrosses the time or attention. The
most prominent hotel is the Pawnee house. bal
loon built, three stories and French roof sur-
mounted with an observatory, and Flagstaff in
full sight from the water approach to the vii.
lage, the most conspicuous object seen. wei,
kept, at reasonable rates, neat and quiet in al,
its appointments. Other hotels are nearly as
: large.
r Among the new buildings is two-story hous,
I just finished by H. Fairbanks of Southbridg,
e street, Worcester, on the main avenue, tastefu
in its style and finish, in the lower story o
q pointed apothecary store that will be well pat