The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1871-10-28
Letters from Hawaii-No. 9.
[rnoM DUR coRnEsroNDENT.l

there. 1t was only by taking quiet possession Of an unoccu-
animals, and otherwise showing our determination of passing
the night there, and BY - displaying !, our Sis stores ? IS ss.l Of GT.pe entire
indifference TO what they might be able TO provide ior Us,
or course The drsr question asked was whether we would pay
for anything we might want, the second.how muchi Making
a bargain for a supply of grass for the horses, ly which
we agreed to pay a stipulated price for a given quantity we
increased. while the quantity had diminished for the use of
an axe, "hapaha." for alleged damage done the nerve, lsna.-
ahapaha." for bringing the same to US from next door,
"haPaha,' for looking on while our boy prepared our TODD, ana
and so on. l cannot help thinking what a harvest they would
people as it was, we shall not bring in a bill Tor ind mnity.
Promising to call again soon, and stay longer-we t9shed Q y
again enjoyed The novel luxury OF a BIT Of well h M e
school on our route, by IL o'clock, A NJ, reached
KAwAIHAE.
Here. while the S. NJ, examined the school, Y. G. inquired
light on the s. doings" in these islands, and enjoyed the cool
breeze drawing through the upper room to which he had been
and after landing freight went on.
since our last visit to this place some three years ago. there
has been but little alteration in its looks. The water has
grown much shallower at the landing, and in consequence some
one or two store houses have been moved down the beach
farther. Business is very much the same, and ihats about ALL
We rode up and examined the large heather temple erected
here by the FIRST Kamehameha, and the last one 1--WE beleve)
stones with INFINITE labor brought from far and near, and
fashioned into a rude sort Of pen; The interior is Just a IKE E, any
system Of idolalry that couldn't provide better acGonmoda,
well made road leading from Kawaihae to Wainea, and SO on,
has after the expenditure of considerable money and labor
let me say that the enterprise and skill shown by those having
the task Of constructing a good road across the lava flows oil
1859, deserve more than a passing notice. The material tney
have 10 build with is the best in the world properly prepared,
great h1lking fellows able to smooth an Ga bed with their
toenais one might imagine, loadng around their huts, now and
then driven by the pangs of hunger TO g. fishing, but at all
other times squatting on their muscular hams Lazily absorbing
and whining out u piLki-i-G-a 10 aa if asked to put their
worthless carcasses TO some use. And we mentally groan out
as they wont do a fair days work for a fair days pay, that they
may be hurried off to swell the ranks of a cllain7gang that will
teach them a thing or two. They tell US OF the government
having aided those who suffered loss from the eruption OF 1869,
been the efectf half the so-cailed sufferers have located
themselves again in spots most likely to be destroyed IN the
time in praying that Pele may take to spe~ing again in their
direction before the present relief fund" is exhausted:
was first raised. ave must make allowances for these
native character were gradually extinguished meath The heaped
up excuses found for letting them do as they pleased f.C.
says nothing of the example set this people by those OF foreign
birth who have encouraged them in habits OF Incidence and
prOfigacy, for he is confident that if he once commenced on
them, these letters might lose their present distinctive heading,
and be entitled =" Sketches of mongrel liie" or something Of
the kind, therefore he goes back to the roads. The
ASCENT FROM KAwAIHAE
Is noticeable on account of the delightful change in the tenn
perature. We all know how hot it is at the beach al Hawai-
haze, and as we feel the pure cool strong breeze ina draws
down through the valley, or rather between the chain # hills
umbrellas, and lift our hats, and oraw deep inspirations with
grateful hearts. Coming from the still quiverIng air of the
of the breezy hil-sides, aud had The sight and sound of cool
sparkling water that runs beside the road. Here by this deep
wavelets on to the pebbly shore with never ceasing rpPles of
us pause and give some counsel to our readers. Among the
many articles provided by the prudent tourist on this group,
let him not forget a good stout serviceabie umbrella Useful
in many ways. he never thinks of it as burdensOme. Over the
he wooves a gentle zeypher. If skies 'oiH lower, and rains nil
fall, upon its shetering roof he hears the quick drops patter,
its shrunk volume and ribbed ,rigiiity hangs lightly from his
listless hand. With pointed ierrale he "prods" his tagging
from further useless goadiug, and with the inspiration born of
isphere suspended DER his lead, with hlny gauze tegirt, repels
the fierce, hut-hau9iing-hunte height mGsquHo. And thus as
by night, as bosom friend at al" times does the tried umbrella
umbrella.
Pausing 10 dip refreshing draughts from out the darksome
pool, we naturally revert to water. Let a slut canteen, of
size capacious, flied whenever opportunity affords, ever &C.
ready Tor the arid wastes of Kau district. Thence through
Kona, tits not sale TO trust 10 the supplies You may hear Of
along the road Fill up everything at kailua, inside and out,
and on the fearful flows of lava, and by the side of brackish
pools thinly scat tered over the route, from the fresh contents of
your tin canteens drink fathoms deep to your adviser: If you
don't, you will find out what is meant by the terms " hrst-class
stores for the trip al the anu Houn in lilo, Y. e. was per-
suaded to invest in a miniature knit, fork and spoon, fastened
he essayed the purchase upon an assorted meal at a n early
no go, he tried the other {" edge" (or back whichever it was)
and succeeded in wrenching of one side the handle Since
bags waiting for a grindstone. Plunsing the fork into the OBJ
a 9nIoss n n = sa a0S e .n9 s oSs R Rsss6S Gaf f, wnS .nf Ge hsS ISa In SeIa
anyhow: By the time it was eaten, a performance effected by
tooth picks broken of from the weapon, and the :" fork" was
tineless.
IL SPa a"
had finished his first cup Of tea, and discovered II lump vi some
the first antidote for "a lead poisoning = he could think of, Tin
this case six sardines, bopes and alp and experienced no ill
effects from the repast, save that his food seemed to lie rather
heavy on his stomach, heavier than usual he thought, until he
found in the morning that 8 N. had got athwartships of the
bed with his head damned between the side of tue house and
bed frame, and his ieet-weIl never mind where they were
Y. Z removed them and listened with interest TO hisstruggles
Tor breath as he gradually stIangled. 4. I. has the card that
these lads to gastrOnomy |" came on. and shall send back
quite time that we should resume our interrupted travels, and,
doing SO, We soon arrived at
REV. MR.. LYONS, wAIMEA.
The familya are ready to receive US, and we thoroughly enjoy
the cool air and sight of green shrubs and trees, and gaily col
thither Y. e. betakes himself. Entering the quaint gateway
rose-embowered, he seats himself upon the low step, and looks
three tall mountains rear their lonely heads. IN front, and
near at hand stands out from the surrounding yerdnre, a cone
into the holder outlines OF Mauna Keas Handicapped heights.
above the dusty plain, is Mauna Loa, and carrying on the un-
dull ting line OF ming.ed cloud and hill to where the ocean
before us is the hamlet of Puuloa. The rich grass clothing the
e caI s'b browse e by the side Of cool streams that wind through ana sh all
the deep rayines and spread out over the meadows. Handsome
grateful shade, spring fringed ferns. The fresh winds almost
chill US with unwonted rigor. = : A strange cry rings
towards the spot where we reclIne. "Ya-a-a-a oh! Mur-r-
one side our sketch-bOOk, pencil, pipe and lazikess, at top
speed cross the uneven ground we fly to save a life Q)-to
in great gIee in a shady pool! Our headIong charge subsidies
i Ie.o,v q . 10 o. sgs = dI walsw wi95 Indifferent lata1y aaI sans. s ess all !, with II g hI%
resolve to do or die, romantic dreams of fair ones owing us
/ their life or safety forever d!ssip2ted by the commonplace dis
covery that the school master had found the water awful
! cold"
Well, we went home together, apparently the best of friends,
but as Y. c. suspects that his hurried approach to the scene Of
supposed disaster was known to, and calculated upon by the
demure looking friend striding along by his side, he plots deep
vengeance at some future day. Wake this Thursday morn
ing and fnd that il is raining. But we have provided for such
a contingency, and set forth after breakfast to "dor the Dis
trict of Kohala, South and North, Riding through the thinly
scattered woods that cloihe the hill side, over a not perg rough
road made quite pleasant by the slight fall of rain that keeps
the dust from rising, we pause tor a short half hour at the
church and school house Of Kaalaia- Seated on the doorstep,
we look out over the Bay Of Kawaihae, and see the KiLauea at
anchor. Despite a thin haze that wells the view. we can make
out the coast line back to kailua point and see the wide spread
bl8ckness of the lava how Of 1859. FROM here not a sign of
vegetation can be seen over the whole extent of this coast. and
though we know that scattered here and there are a few clumps
of cocoanut trees, yet beside them there is not enough of yege-
table life TO keep a goat alive more than a week. The contour
Of the land makes kawaihae a tolerable roadstead, and provides
the material for roads 10 get away from the place as quickly
as possible. Riding over this part Of the island we pass through
forests of good fre-wood. the Understood, mangani, triLi1uiH
and DiLo-gnarled and twisted in a way TO puzzle the most
expert axeman 10 determine which way the trees will fall if cut
down.
The soil is thin, and poor, and deeply scanned and torn by
torrents rushing down with each recurring storm. So much
Tor the country as far as We have gone this morning. While
waiting for the s. M, let me mention a matter, of not the
slightest importance may be, but deserving notice as illustrate
ing the efficient ~ manner I'm which the faxes on sa1na kind.o A