The Emporia news. [volume] (Emporia, Kan.) 1859-1881, 1871-04-28
oF STITCHES MADE FER MINUTE.

When the machines are driven by power the
ratio is higher, 1900 and 900 stitches per E1in
ute not being an unusual average. Seams of q
considerable length are ordinarily sewed with
the best machines, ut the rate of a yard a min
ute. and that, too, in a manner far superior to
hand work. Garments are now made entirely
by il, with the exception of sewing on buttons
and the like. Laces are stitched On, folds,
tucks, gathers, and platts are laid aud stitched,
cord run in, binding put on, and quilting
The mechanism for holding the cloth for
sewing, is 4 plate and foot, above the point
of working.
The feed Ia the mechanism for moving the
fabric forward regularly at each stitch. the va.
rieties are:
First-The Baxter Plate Feed Howe's
original feed which is now discarded, and an
endless feed substituted,
Second-The Needle Peed-Little used; as
the needle il likely to be broken by the for
ward movement which 1t must give to the
cloth, in order to form the stitch.
Third-The Wheel Feeds II wheel, with a
serrated periphery, situated below the plate
on which the cloth rests, but projecting slight
the the needle acts. The cloth is pressed upon
it by the presssr-foot above, and regular
graduated movement is given To it as the dis
tance required for every stitch. This is the
feed used by the Empire and Is by FAR the
most reliable and accurate. The feed is by far
the most important point in y Sewing Ma
chine.
This fued is capable of feeding with perfect
accuracy, 1872 stitches to the inch, carrying the
thinnest muslin or the heaviest beaver with
the same accuracy. The feed never loosing
the goods, it feeds over heavy seams, or from
thin goods on to thick, or vice versa. with the
same precision. never varying the length of
the stitch, and never requiring the assistance
of pulling by the operator.
Fourth-The Four Motion Feed-[A. b.
Wilson, used by the Wheeler g. Wilson,
Grover 81 Baker, Singer, Wilcox 81 Gibbs,
bartlett, and numerous others, Is called the
DROP FLED. consists of a small bar lying be-
low the cloth plate, with teeth near the end.
which acts through u slat in the cloth place.
It is driven by a cam and has an upward. for
ward. downward, and backward motion ut
each stitch. 1t Is raised, takes the cloth.
throws it forward, drops, is then thrown back,
repeating the operation at each stitch. In
carrying the goods forward, this feed must
take four motions to each stitch. Momentum
must thus be four times produced and neu-
traIiz d at each stitch, thus requiring as
mach lower to feed the goods as il does to
make tie stitch. 1t is the operation of such
machines that has affected SO injuriOusly the
health of operators. To make 600 hundred
stitches per minute, the feed must have 2.400
motions. 1t is obvious to every one, that no
feed can long sustain such wear, consequently
they ar soon out of order, and require extern
sive an9 costly repairs. Furthermore, rs this
feed leaves the goods entirely at every stitch,
the elasticity of the cloth draws it back a Ger,
tain distance, apd when the stitch is shortened
to 20 or so stitches per inch, this elasticity is
often equal TO the length Of the stitch, conSe--
quentlY the needle descending repeatedly on
the spot IN the fabric, produces ''pfling up''
OF the stitches. and the goods do not feed at
all. For the same reason. when coming to a
seam, or uneven surface, 1t fails to feed regu-
larry, and often, without assistance will not
feed at all.
The tension of the thread is the next point
Of importance.
with the chain-stitch the looping must be
laid smoothly and regularly With the lock-
stitch, the thread must be drawn sufficiently
tight, and the point Of interlocking be within
With the shuttle machines this has been the
important object TO maintain. The manage
ment of the tension Of the shuttle thread had
exhausted the ingenuity of inventors, until
the Empire patent shuttle was invented,
which pays the thread with an even and uni
form tension, which may readily be adjusted
to any desired degree. The upper thread is
led from the original spool, passing around
the tension wheel to the needle, and the ten
sion is regulated by turning the tension stud.
This tightens the thread, by gradual friction
on a smooth surface. bearing upon three inches
of thread equally, thus allowing rough or un-
even thread to pass evenly, aud without
breaking, while the spring tension which is
generally used on other machines. bears di-
rcetly on both sides Of the thread at one
point, and is consequently liable TO break it,
even If ordinarily good, but certain to do so in
passing knOtty or uneven places.
The Empire has slack wire TO take up the
slack thread which draws the thread tight,
without Earring or straining too tightly, thus
enabling il to make perfect stitch, exactly
alike on both sides of the fines fabrics, with
out pickering or drawing the work; and, at
the same time without changing the needle,
thread or tension, tc sew through thirty thick
nesses OF cambria Or fell cloth, or through
wool or leather, a. thick as can be got under
the presser-fOot; the strain on the thread being
so even. and the thread following the needle
up through the cloth SO closely, that il seldom,
II ever, baeak| the thread.
The band wheel Is held in a groove or slot,
fastened by nut, thus afordfng facilities for
tightening or loosening the band in a moment
with a wrench. without cutting or splicing.
The presser-foot sets sn one side. so that the
seam may be seen while sewing, and gaugers
and self sewers are furnished to direct the
course Of the work.
With the AsMn1sr, which Is q simple device
fastened by screw to the presser foot. hens
and fells of any width are turned and stitched
without any previous turning and basting
more regularly and beautiful than by hand.
The corder is simple device for laying cords
in shirt fronts, dresses, etc. The 6rdider
serves to lay cord or narrow braid upon any
fabric.
The ilqrker is for making folds or tueks on
garmentS.
The fsiHer gathers the work as it is stitched
The binder folds the binding over the edge
of the goods. and stitches it down al the same
time,
Thus the machine, while making the lock-
stitch which il, by far the best for all kinds of
sewing, combines devices and utility found in
40 other machine in the world.
While each Of the Empire machines unites
all the qualities desirable in a sewing machine,
aud indeed, constitute the perfection OF sewing
machine mechanism, the ystem Of its manu-
facture is such that the similar parts Of all
machines are interchangeable. 1t is made by
automatic machinery, after the system Of fire.
arms,
Ii any part, by accident, becomes broken,
its duplicate is readily supplied. All the
parts subject TO wear are made OF finely tenn
pered steel, and agencies are becoming estab-
lished throughout the civilized world 90 fur
nish instruction, repairs and supplies. and 50
perfect are all made, that their correct opera
ton - always guaranteed. This could not be
the case II they were made by hand
Every machine Is warranted for three years.
For sale by P. G. BERNHARD.
Bed Flag Shoe Store, Emporia, Kan.
/. L. RICHMOND, Gen Aest,
s.. JosepE. 10.