The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1871-09-22

| crepe de- chine ana autumn MOVERS For winter
viii be Reproduced IN velvet and combinations G
SILK and velvet Bonnet strings arc rather WIDE
and very much longer, some reaching at leasIt
'''' PLArNNEss IN VOGUE.
The same peculiar style or patnness that
adopted IN costumes Is observable In bonnets an
hats. Excess OF ornamentatloD is not considere
auJdit. but the materials must be rich and artist
cally arranged. The taste must needs be exquisit
which can produce becoming efect with onl
velvet, SIX and ostrich tips, OF subdued shades
materials Will enter largely into the formation o. a
bonnets the feathers displacng flowers almost er
nae Except s s9r lace trimmings Lace VIII ais
Plain, black velvet bOnnets. with very llItl
commentator, are for stopping, and for TN
greet the revival Of felt In bonnets as well q
round hats. For rough and. ready costume 1t l
propriate than gray or brown felt bonnet trimmed
WITH some color either matching or contrasting n
millinery 10 match the costume familiarized u
with brighter colors IN Donnets and II Is not nov
considered obligatory that the bonnet must elthe
taste VIII dictate that 1t should always harmonic.
STRINGS AS A DISTINCTION.
For some time past hats have been distlngushabt
from bonnets only by the strings; put strings on {
hat and 1t became bonnet and take them on anc
called to- bei .e
leading styles the crowns are high, almost straight
and perfectly nat on the top the brims OF medium
curved and drooping at the back and front; nave q
dropping brm all around, but the high, nat crown
I is almost universal. The English turban shapes
with rather higher crowns than formerly are also
much IN fayor, and are very generally becoming.
nS louis XVI nat with its high Perfectly aal
sides, will be the favorlte, however 1t is
rather masculine In appearance, somewha.
becoming. long ven Is fastened on the right SIDE
under an aigrette Or pompon of velvet, and may DC
sure. All the shapes can lie found in black and
colored straws ana felt for autumn wear, and arg
repeated IN vevet for later in the season.
rear 10 'front.', and the greater mass OF 1t Is as
posed very nearly or directly In front, connected
with long streamers in the back. The turbans aie
simply yet charmingly trimmed with plain bands Of
velvet, or scarf with long ends and pretty little
wing saucly perking out at the lert; but the long
right SIDE passing across the front and wind.nr
around 10 the back, where II falls over back hair
y most f2gsols q Jaul Tor hats with rolling bruins
STYLES IN BoNNRrs.
The Elise" Is gray felt turban Of q new shape,
fecty nat on the Top and inclined toward the front
The 9arnlturc consists OF alternate folds OF garnet
spS rssS Of ss2ne nS BRIAN
six placed along the edge Of the crown on the top,
II ne PACK II @ cluster garnet
over the shoulders.
velvet, known as the "'viola" has the crown high
and straight and the brim and small curtain slightly
dpooping Alternate folds Of gray velvet and uncut
Vevet finish the edge and surround Inc crown,
which 1s surmounted by high, soft pun. The garn-
tnre is all placed on the right side, almost directly
in the back and consists OF a full cluster OF gray
plumes, surrounding large blue satin flower, from
which depend long, trailing sprays
Louise blue ccrSed SILK the crown orm mas o San
soft pun, and the brm dropping at the side and
'front.' but turned up In the back The trimming
consists OF loose rouleau OF silk surmounted by
black Chantilly lace Which proceeds from the large
silk bow on the left SIDE across the front aud right
side 10 cluster OF black ostrich tips which, with
the long streamers OF black gros grain ribbon com
plete the 2arniture in the Dack.
La Prncesse" is black velvet bonnet with full,
puffed crown, rather deep curtain formed of black
lace, and the brim turned from the face in front,
leaving room for full face trimming OF ruched lace
and full-Dlown pink rose heavy rOuleau OF velvet
entirely enclrcies the bonnet between Of black
Chanfily lace and tuft Of black ostrich tips on the
right side toward the front and TWO velvet tabs in
the back complete the garnture. Long velvet
brides, edged on one side with wide lace, tied low
down and narrew tie-strings OF pink ribbon
The "VanZlnp' gave evidence OF q most artistic
taste In the combination OF three most exquisite
shades of brown, the materials corded silk uncut
plemented by nigh pulled crown, and the curtain
In the back, formed by double scarf trnged on
the ends, was ornamented with splendid spray Of
leaves falling from the back and others connecting
1t with similar flower which formed the face trim
ming. The blending OF the different tones Of color
III this bonnet was simply exquisite.
FRAMING THE FEMININE FACE.
Nile. Power had q brilliant opening Yesterday,
and exhibited some rare specimens OF bonnets and
round hats. Among them was black lace Fanchon,
W.T. with soft crown Of peach velvet, very lovely
Correspond. Velvet and lace becomngly arranged,
Of wo shades Of velvet the front being ar
ranged in alternate folds Of velvet The crown
consisted OF two large puts, one light and the other
dark. An elegant ostrich plume, OF deep, rich
violet, was fastened upon the right by light
colored pompon crossing the crown and falling
grace ully upon the left. The lace veil was caught
carelessly by violet ribbon and band OF velvet
crossed the 'front.' We also saw stylish hats OF the
Marie Antoinette shape-one OF black velvet, with a
lace pulling around the crown, confined In the
centre by rich feather trimming In all the canary
shades. soft ostrich. canary plume, tipped With
black, dropped careessly in the back apparently
fastening handsome thread lace veil. Then there
was a hat composed OF Dlacx velvet and rich pink
covered with thread lace. THIS had beautiful
effect In softening and harmoniZing both colois
ess SH o Sep through STYLISH rboon bow and an
elegant ostrich plume OF pink with black centre,
fastened by Jet ornament, completed this disttnyae
hat.
At Terrys, Union square, we saw hat called the
princess" 1t was hat OF white velvet, trimmed
side in fuIl clusters Of loops; long white plume,
with yellow pendants, falling over the crown and
extending over ne har, with scarf OF thread lace
OF mauve-colored velvet, rather hi1h In the crown
and the brim slightly rolled All round and facing
thread lace surrounding the crown. A long plume
OF the same color was set In black tip at the side
grain ribbon with full clusters Of loops, were al
the side and back.
Beside 1t was white felt turban, the brim faced
with blue velvet, wide band OF velvet surrounding
the crown, two ostrich tips SO arranged as 10 fall
over the crown, half shading garland OF flowers,
which fall over the back hair.
Another was very stylish riding hat for ladies,
OF SILK plush, high crown. the trim ming composed
OF band Of wide velvet, falling in wide streamers
from the back, and q lace vel fastened by an os.
Nich tip at the side.
A novelty is q Polish cap for boys, OF brown velvet,
with black trimmings and pompon set at the side
In a BOW Of velvet. The Rosetta Is a hat Of white
felt for small children, the brim rolled all round and
faced with velvet, roll OF velvet surrounding the
crown and white ostrich tip at the side.
Arnold Constable although not yet prepared
for an opening in all their departments, had some
Interesting styles and materials ON exhibition.
SILKS.
There has never been season WREN there has
been greater variety OF colorS in plain silks than
this fall, ana the stock at this house seems TO he
more than usually complete. As plain cOlors are
deemed especially desirable both for full ana deml
costumes We Gao onlJ mention the names OF some
OF the leading colors. The Palmyra Saamander,
AventurIne scabense Solitaire, Hyacintne, Bou-
teie are the most prominent The 'Cachemire
Scllien," q fabric Of SILK and wool, very finely
finished to resemble SILK one and quarter yards