Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1871-04-29


silly idea, has ever taken possession OF women
than this, that dress could only be worn once,
twice, or few times, and that the more costly
II Is, the less il must be worn. Why, il takes
come time to adapt one self TO dress, as IL does
% new sho' o and when We have itsed ourselves
10 IL, become acquainted with its curves aud
lines, and folds, felt its softness and know how
us 81 INNER LIT MP eyes and hair, and impaired
radiance to the whole appear ance Of the wear sT .
we begin 20 feel affection for IL, and adopt IL as
part of our personality. IL is mere refinement
OF torture 10 have beautiful things, and be
obliged 10 throw them aside, Just as one Is be
ginning TO feel a sort of love for them. "A thing
OF beauty is a joy fer ever and one clinSs %
the memory OF some "pale pink" or Eight
blue" or erich black, - or "pure cream color 4"
that has been signalized by special evidence Of
approval because try as we NAV, We never can
quite reproduce the same design or the same
impression, The universe has moved since
that twice, and the pieces can never come
together IN precisely the same way again, even
so Tar as To give us dup'iclte OF dresses,
have known. Won TO dreSs we'll should buy
fewer dresses, be more careful what they buy,
and wear them, as if they were, as indeed thew
are, part OF their personality.
HooPBD SKIRTS.
There has been great effort to get rid OF
hoped sSirts, and il has been partially success
full. With long dresses hoped skirts are not
now worn at all, only hustle, small or large,
according TO the taste of the wesrer. The un-
derskiFts are, Of course, long, nearly the length
OF the train, and generally very much trimmed
with tucking and auting, which greatly assists
For a time, the short walking dress also was
worn minus hoops, and plus a hustle, but "a at
has not been found neat or convenient. The
tullness OF the skirt spread out over the hustle,
fell in straight, thick folds to the feet Mapping
In al the ancles most uDgracefully Nearly all
ladies, even those who for time discarded il,
have returned TO the small hoop, with a curved
back, forming a small hustle, finding the slight
clstention (the new hoped skirts only measure
sixty-tve inches at the base) essential to COM
fort, especially with the lighter spring dress
materials. Over this hoop some young ounces
and some who are older and ought to know bet
ter, wear an enlarged hustle, giving them the
grotesque bump OF protuberance.
80 wad some power
The giftie gle us"
SPRING AND SUMMER MANTLBs.
The newest garment of this description, is a
short sack with or without sleeves, and a cane
forming in effect a double cape. This Is i'm
ported in fine black cashmere, very richly en-
brodered with black or white, or with a mix
tn OF black and white, and bordered with
lace, or fringe of both. There are also COSTUME,
In cashmere, black or pearl grey, forming turic
skirts and Jackets, or a pDlOnaise with baslues
IoI wear over silk skirts, long or short. These
costumes richly embroidered and trimmed with
gulpure lace, cost from one hundred and fifty ~
two hundred and fifty dollars, bat are really lis.
tnguIshed, and in high favor because they can
dress, or with a long lavender or pearl colored
silk for visits and receptions.
handsome black silk suits, made en- costume
are FOUND very useful on this account As tie
UPPER skirt and Jacket, or polOnaise can be
utilized for all sorts OF tOllettes.
Black lace basques and jackets are making
their appearance in great variety, and promIsg
10 be very much worn. Open or flowing sleeves
are so much newer, and considered 30 ma b
more desirable than the close ones, thar there
Is Inference of several dollars between the
a Il ar 10 Ia.
ride garments attached TO precisely similar ar
ucles in silk or cashmere, as we'll a. lace A
novel application Of black watered MORE ka-
been made for the first time, this season, p.
using 1t as trimming Dipping ard fold upon
black groS grain. II Is very effective.
Double capes, the upper one cut up on the
BACK, and trimmed with fat folds or braids axe
added TO the long travelling sacks of linen 81
waterproof cloth. Some prefer TO these In,
small square cut peleTiDe cape worn last season
but these are now more generally attached "a
gored morning dresses OF white linen or piQus.
MOURNING MATERIALS.
The extensive adoption of black for o.dinary
street wear, and the actual disfayor with which
the custom OF wearing mourning is regarded y,
many highly intelligent people, seems to hav,
stimulated fashion TO sustain tradition, by i'm
parting extreme depth to stylish mourning, and
thus rendering il as distinctive and different
from the black Of every day people as possible.
The prestige which formerly attached to fine
black English bombsziDe has been revived 10
some extent, and associated with broad folds OF
double English Grape; 1t is now considered tue
most distinguished OF mourning fabrics, and es-
pecialy requisite for the early period of Widow
mourning. After this, "Henrietta" clothes
must be worn; or III IL Is warm weather, By
Zsntlne or Florentine tissues, Tsmise cloth, or
black greDadiDe; the latter fine meshed ana
close, not the coarse, "canvas" style. which was
fashionable two years ago. BrilliantyZe Is very
mneh used In mourning. and also the fine buffalo
ana "otter" braids OF ALPACA; the latter is
quite new, and manufactured expressly for a
summer ALPACA. II is exquisitely fine and
light, without being Transparent, ard fin
which never changes or lose its iustre'
II furnishes a much needed medium between
heavy and disphanous black fabrics, which will
De appreciated by ladies both in aud out of
Tie Turkish brilliantyne, made from the air
OF the Turkey goat, which is very fine and
silky, has achieved a wide popularity since it,
intI0ductlon here year ago. A distinctive
feature Of it, of the Buffalo and Otter brands of
alapacas, and Beaver brand mOhairs. Is, that
the black Is very full and permanent, and they
are finished alike OH both sides. This high Quai-
lty makes them look as well at the last as at the
nrst. There are some beautiful grey Frerch
muslin; with black borders, for half mourning
house dresses this season, which one out OF
mourrlng can hardly help purchasing, and sOtt
finished cambrics, in hair-stripes and checks
at thirty i've cents per yard, which look almost
equalto silk.
There is this attraction about mourning ma
terials, they are only ordered in the finest and
choicest CRATES. dollar c0l0red p0plin, as the
petite superintendent of a mourning depart
meDt in one Of the great establishments re-
marked the other day, locks very WELL but no
"lady" would buy dollar poplin In black
BoNNETs.
There is nothing new to record in bonnets or
hats. Frou Frcu Gypsies, of straw or chip,
trimmed with the Inevitable streamers of lace
or 9ros grain ribbon, are most popular, espe-
cially among young ladies; while the full Gvp.
sew, or Charlotte Corday, seems TO be more
affected by matTons and women of less fauciful
but more distinguished taste.
are squares Of dotted net or gauZe, the former
edged with real thread lace, but having a
narrow ribbon run through the top, in quite
old style.
GLOVES.
Many buttoned gloves have been restored TO
us, at an average increase OF price OF twenty
Eve cents per button. Whether the extra
buttons are worth the extra million annual
expenditure lie q question for a debating society
"FAIRY PRINCE NRCKTIKs"
are the latest and prettiest ornament for the
neck. They are composed OF several strands OF
oft-friDged silk, fastened together at the ends
and fastened with soft tassefs. They are m Ale
in all colors and in very lovely shades of color,
and are wonderfully becoming.
LACE.