Mineral Point tribune. (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1869-1938, 1871-05-04
JEWELRY.
The Prevailing Styles---Amerfcanst the
Ntctors In the Competition with
Europe.


Some of our leading jewelry manu-
facturers consume half million of dol
lars in pure United States mint bars.
These bars are usually charming little
yellow bricks, such as one might east
ly squeeze into vest pocket provided
the owner was looking i'll an opposite
direction), all duly stamped on the
edge, for example, "ozs. 25.41 -
1899" meaning thousandths, which is
the maximum tineness; ~. S. AS
say Officer, New York, :" a spread eagle
above the letterings; "S624. Is value. ~
These bars are thrown into a crucible
with an alloy of silver and copper in
various proportions. None maniac
ture better than Is carats, and few bet
ter than Is: 15may be considered about
the average. Even Is is often objected
to as too soft for chains and other ar
ticles where there is friction, and con-
scquent need of durability.
Our manufacturers now feel strong in
their ability to compete with the best
workshops of Europe. A few years
ago rivalry from that source was pow
erful, and importations continued
heavy But through the facilities now
at our command in the use of improv-
ed machinery, and complete system
of skilled labor, Americans are enabled
to manufacture on a much larger scale,
and in the widest possible range of de-
sign. Neither the English or French
suit our fastldious taste. The former
are too massive in style, the latter too
tawdry. In Europe manufacturers
generally contine themselves to one or
two specialties, employing but few
men. In the United States the leading
establishments make goods i'll an end
less variety OF style, and employ large
force. At this present moment one of
these concerns has at work 80 girls on
the single item of pure gold tassel
chains, made by the yard.
We hear it remarked that American
jewellers now have such complete mas
terry of their trade, as against Europe,
that could they be permitted to import
duty free the tools and materials used
in making goods, they would ask from
the government no protection. AL
though the fact is not generally known,
we are already exporting to England
large qualities of gold pencils, and if
the home demand was less urgent our
manufacturers would no doubt turn
their attention to foreign markets.
Even now, We are exporting largely to
Cuba.
Cameo goods and black onyx, plain or
setwith diamonds, pearls, &C., are now
uppermost among leaders of fashion"
The former are very saleable, next to
diamonds, and probably most popular
Both cuttings and designs present
charming novelties. The style of
mounting is either in colored gold or
rich in diamonds and pearls, ingenuity
being taxed TO the utmost in catering
to the critical taste The demand now
is for very wide bracelets, owing to the
large flowing sleeves in vogue, exposing
the arms. The cuff band, for example,
is often made in precise imitation of
starcLed linen, buttons, &C., complete; ;
width full two inches.
Another popularity is that every ar
ticle made must have monogram,
either engraved or raised, and occa-
sionally enameled. Black onyx is COM
ing rapidly into fashion. When orna-
mented with diamonds, the effect is
singularly striking. To illustrate, one
of our firms has just received an order
for several hundred black onyx drops,
to be pendant from solitaire diamonds,
for the ear.
In another class of goods we were
shown superb set breach and ear
rings, consisting of an onyx shell, a
butterfly resting in the centre. The
gorgeous colors of the outspread wings
surpass even nature itself, each delicate
filament radiant with tiny diamonds,
rubies and emeralds. Value, $3.50. An
enameled diamond locket, almost COW
cred with diamonds, is marked 5000 in
gold (all prices WHOLESALER Stone
sleeve buttons are soid as high as $3.50
pair gentlemen's lockets and seals,
SIS to 300; sets of onyx incrusted
with gold and set with diamonds, cost
from S25 to $50.
We now propose to tell the ladies a
few secrets, or rather to speak of GER
tain features Of the trade to them es-
peciallv interesting, but not always I'M
derstood. The question Is now goods
are colored. In the first place, very
evidently, colors depend on the pro
portions and kinds of alloy. Red
gold deprives its name from the alloy
OF copper. Etruscan' or Roman
gold, for some time past very popular,
is color artiicially made in this wise :
An article l6 or Is carats fine IS sub.
iected to treatment with acids, to bring
out the rich yellow SO much admired.
The chemical effect is to remove the
alloy, upon which the acid instantly
seizes, leaving the surface of pure gold.
just now the fashion is tending to large
eur- rings, with variegated colors-green
and red gold The uninitiated may be
startled to know that an ALLOW Is parts