The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1871-05-22
THE JUNE MAGAZINES.
"SCRIBNER'S."


The June number of Scri6ner'S Monthly,
both in the number and excellence of its illus
trations and in the entertaining variety
of its literary contributions, maintains the
high standard of excellence its previous num-
bers have reached. The contents are as fol-
lows:-
1.-THE Wonders of the Yellowstone. second
article, illustrated, N p. Langford; "Lights
and Shadows of the War, illustrated, William
Wells; ''Three Leaves from a Story, poem,
illustrated, Lois Brooke; "The Mother of the
Emperor William, " illustrated, Francis john
son; 'Leipsic and its Fair" illustrated,
Thomas Emmette; ''Norah, the Story of
Wild Irish Girl, concluded, Mrs. Oliphant
''The Illinois and st. Louis Bridge, illus
trated, A. S.Twombly; Making Port, poem
j. T. Mckay; "The Shadow that Came Be-
tween, Adeline Trafton; The Freedom of
the Pulpit" Samuel W. Dufiield; "Wilfrid
Cumbermede, illustrated, George MacD Donald;
1.-THE Clothes of Ghost, poem, Mrs. S. M.
B. Piatt; Topics of the Time, "The Old
Cabinet" 'Home and Society,"" Couture and
Progress Abroad, Couture and Progress at
Home, "Etchings," illustrated, l.. Y. Hop
kins.
The following on ''the ethics of Dress"
which we find under the head of 'Home and
Society, is soundly sensible:-
There are hill-slopes and mountain-tops in
New England which glitter just now in
spring time broidery of flowers. With every
season the flowers vary-now arbutus, now
buttereups, now clover; but no change comes
to the solid granite which underlies them.
Through all seasons and all years it remains
the same.
Even so, certain immutable laws uuderlie
all human fashions, changing not with the
perpetual hux and sheen of outward life.
These laws, of grace, of symmetry, of pro-
priety, are the oracles of our highest culture
and our finest instincts. They are natural
laws as well, and the things of Nature con-
form to them. Willows droop, elm boughs
curve accordantly-no humblest flower that
blows but recognizes their behest in the
shaping and the painting of its cup.
But we are Rot obedient as the flowers.
Acknowledging the law, we forget it. Espe-
cially is this true in matters of dress. Fashion
. twitches this way and that, pulls lines out of
their rightful sweep and meaning, overloads,
deforms, DISCUSSES, and our eyes become
demoralized. Hardly do we endure before
we embrace; we become part of all which
at first we hated, and the higher law is for
gotten.
Wherefore it is to be wished that as each
season, our journals record the caprices of
Dame Fashion, some cooler voice in the back
ground might be provided, which should re-
aside, SO important to remember. Or, to use
another figure, that amid the arbitrary
changes and glitter of society, wise hand
should be found to seize and hold up the
standards valid now as in the days of
classic Greece, the standard of correct taste
if haply a few here and there might behold
and follow.
This code, worthy to be engraved on tables
of brass, runs somewhat after this wise:-
hmm 1,j11ljo ha frat pSti auu
fashion is the true one. Don't wait till your
eye has lost its accuracy and your Judgment
its edge. Subject the thing at once to the
general rule, and bow to the decision.
I'd. What suits one person does not suit
another. Know thyself.
Sd. Dress should supplement good points
and correct bad ones. Thick and thin, long
and short, are not all to be subjected to one
Procrustean style.
4th Colors should be harmonious, should
be massed, should be becoming. Id est,
many little points or blotches of color sprin-
kled over costume produce disagreeably
pied and speckled effect, as of a monstrous
robins egg, or a plum-pudding. One tint
should prevail, relieved by contrasting tint.
No amount of fashionable prestige can make
an unbecoming color becoming. nile green
will turn some people into oranges, though
twenty expresses ordain its adoption.
9Th Lines should be continuous, graceful,
and feminine. 1t is better to look like 8
woman (if you happen to be one) than like
anything else-even fashion-plate
9th. Ornament must be subordinate. Ma
ture, with all her profusion, never forgeti
this fundamental law.
7th. Above all things, be neat. Dainty
precision and freshness are essential to
woman as a flower.
Sth. individuality is the rarest and thu
cheapest thing in the world.
9th, and lastly, ''Stylish" is of all the word
in the English language the most deadly. 1
has slain its thousands