Memphis daily appeal. [volume] (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, 1871-01-01


Ored observance, so dear 70 The hearts Of
all HuickerbCck6rE. has Of lzCs years as
sumed greater Importance, and been more
strictly q r~eligiOasly kept than ever.
The table,, % be sure DO nos exhibit the
a~bOunding and generous Hospitality which
distinguished thsm twenty years ago,
when fdey grOansd under huge turkeys
and great boiled hams; bus they have got
over the meagraneaa which restricted
item TO cake and vine, and display lux
ury in accordance with the growth OF
W6alth and the love Of creature comforts,
which distinguishes his age and this IA
tion.
There g something really human in
this custom, which Keeps Is alive and
makes &C. grow. First 81 January calls
are not now BY any means oonhusd TO
New York, and, 10 fact, TIE custom ID be-
coming so general hat 81 threatens to be
a. national in timeY as Thanksgiving
Day.
TIE RECEPTION.
1t is understood, Of course, that gentle
men only make these calls, and only Ia
dies receive them, unless In the case Of
public officials or State dsgnitaries-
Weeks before the Preparations com
menes by the purchase Of a new dress,
which must be cOmpleted by the given
time, or woe 70 the unluCky dressmakerl
For, a New York woman has a supsrsti-
ton about wearing a new dress on New
LEaA = 41Nf anu GJA1AAeA1 LrA 4aHp44I1a
in a greag measure dependent upon il.
As tho time approaches cares muitiIIy-
The whole house must undergo nov
tiOu-lacs curtains must be leaL5d, silver
must be secured, table linen pus in order,
various kinds of rich cake made. stores OF
wine and fruits and cQnfsCtiOneriss pur-
chased, and every preliminary step taken
20 insure the success Oftas final event.
The table, generally placed in the back
parlOr, or extension room, is set the night
before. The fruit and confectionery ars
all arraysd, 80 that nothing remains 70 bs I
done but TO cut the sandwiches, arrange
the cake, small and large, In baskets and
China dishes. make the coffee, and dress.
This accomplished, the lady Of tie house, I
her daughters or friends, bstake them
selves 70 the parlOrs or Withdrawing
rooms, and the business Of the day com
meucss. Old friends Of the family some
times MAKE long calls, and even join the
family dinner OF roast turkey and oyster
sauce az SIX O'Clock; but young men who
pride themselves upon the number OF
calls they shall make, as young ladies
upon the number they shall recsivs, ny
in and out with wonderful raPidity, sx-
changing the compliments Of the season,
swallowing a grape or a glass Of wine, and
DOl-iUg-as If the tailor with bis unpaid
bill was after them. and certainly with
more celebrity than pOl-eness. The last
calls are NOS u~utrequeutly made late at
{ AAAAHH a4A AA 44AalAlga WA6A2 aAgA1 are Q
many young people the evening closes
with a dance, or sort OF imprOv1sed
sOciable.
To some people New Years calls would
seem to cost more than they ar worth;
but when we C me TO consider how little
there IS in this world that has any real
value, we shall feel that social amenities
and the hatsrnal spirit are worth culti-
waiting under any form In which We may
hnd them, and that it Wss wen to accspt
and make the best of what we have until
the natural growth Of things gives us
something better,
e YEARS TOILETS
Among the ladies' Of genuine old fami-
lies, the tOusttes for New Years Day pos
ssss a certain signidcancs or character
Among them the custom is preserved Of
waiting upon their guests with their
hands, not deiegating the trust 20 servants
as some OF She mushroom arlst0eracy do.
Their dresses are, therefore, adapted TO
| this hOms-iks and hOUssWifslY custom.
The maguihcsncs of lace, flowers, very
long trains, and even a superintendent
display of diamonds, are all considered
I bad style. but c0l0rs of material are not
I by any means restricted. On the contra
~, there is more latitude allowed THAI
upon any other occasion. So that tina
high neck and the demi-trsin give the
" dinner" or demi-evening character 70
the toilette, the rest may be n ac-
| COrdance with the sweet VIII Of
the Wearsr, provided always that 10
IS becoming. OVerdresses Of OrEsndie
p robes Of pink, blue, mauV6, or
ashes OF roses SIX have furnished a sstis-
factory solution to many problems in re-
gard 10 New Years dressss. and really
are moss fresh and graceful when Orna-
msuled with rather broad, black velvet
carried in trails TO the shoulder as the
latest fancy Ordains.
Other and very elegant costumes are or
striped satin and gros grain, With an over
skirt Of satin trimmed with lace or
rich fringe. The bodies Of these
striped dresses are cut square, the
edged with a fall Of the lace 70 the waist,
and over these ere pretty open sleeves OF
satln, lined with white silk or satin, which
come together aG the top of TIA arm, but
disclose nearly the whole Of the striped
sleeve beneath. The satin Overdress is, Of
course, always the color OF the satin
stripe in the Uudsr-dress. .
Very pretty dresses, and they are so
fashionable that they may serve as 8
typs-all composed of silk (tshstss) and
duted Swiss or Orgsudis muslin. A deep
Hated n1unce Of muslin surrounds the
bottom oft the skirt and is headed BY three
narrow alternate nJuuCes, tEO Of silk and
me Of musin-the silk ones pinksd out,
the muslin edged with narrow Faleuci-
euuas, and completed by alternate rufhes
of silk and NeI5nciennes, put on 70 match
the skirt. PaK0da sleeves ruth5d TO match.
Rich plain pouit de s0tTs forms an elegant
toilette OF many distinguished maErons,
in the new myrtle green and sand color,
which are the tavOri1e Uuts, but which
are growing so exceedingly scarce that 10
Is only az a few houses thai e can be pro-
duc6d. These are made with or without
oversktrt and worn with a surpics collar
OF old Venetian point lace. p,
VISITS. q
The first days after New Years are I
the ladies special calling days, andtothese
visits Is attached q great deal Of import 2
snce in this way OF toilette.
The most distinguished costumes pre-
pared for the purpose thi5 season are COM 4
posed Of velvet and fur-ruby. clsret, gOi- 0
don, brown, dsrk green and marine blue {
velvets. mounted with narrow bands OF
c~hlnclilla mink, Alaska sable Eud white
The bOHnsts are Of the same velvet
SIS the dress, With plumes 20 Mach
BlsCk costumes are less fashionable than
last year, but probably there are none
more truly elegant A very handsome -
one has a deep hOunCs of velvet around ?
the bottom and several narrow hOurCss Z
above. alternating with bands Of white {
DNchsSSe lace. The long basque is trim @
med with deep black thread lace, above Z
which are rut1ss Of lace, half the width, !
alternating with bands Of (DHchesSe) lace, ;
sEd beaded by leaves Of close dull silk :
embroidery. The DiTecfoirs bonnet, worn I
with this costume, is Of black velvet trim 3
med with a mixture of white and black L
lace and white ostrich plumss. Ghe vel q
vet strings are cut on the bias lined with q
white silk sndrudlsd across the ends with +;
white and black lace =
Less expensive costumes, for young Ia =
dies, are Of elOth-brOWn, marine blue, d
and myrtle green. They are trimmed with
narrow bands aud ravarsO of asFraohau and q
astrachan u snd boa completes tbs
suit. b
WHAT Is F-AsHIONABLE- 5
One CT the best indications of q wOman :
of wealth and real refinement Is that she :
knows how to sdapt her dr6ss 70 all the =
necessities OF position and circumstances, II
and does it. She never wears a white q
bonnet, ~Obtrusive Jswelry, a long dress or v
thin shoes in the street, and neither does
she wear g short, plain Wslking-dresz Z
IN the evening, when c6reDOnious toll =
lets are expected. b kH0us What is suit =
able, and she sdapts fashion to her cOnvs- =
nience- Z
Nothing is more common than for ladiss T
in the country 70 write to their friends in II
town, and ask If long OF short dresses are II
worm If suits or clOaks are -fashionabief ed
which is to be the fashionable color for =
the season. n so On, al infmltgtm. Tt =
seems imp0ssi0le % impress il upon them y
that long and short dresses, suits and
and every color beeOEfuE to the q
wearer, ars fashionable, and tfany ofthsm b.
Were not,the example and discovery ONO &
vel and pr6tty e~hecisWOuld make them so. n
Really fashionable and wealthy WCmen
by no means limit themselves 20 n spe-
cial cut or style OF dress. One OF the -
principal advantages is that they can az -
ford enough of changes to adapt their q
costume 20 every condition and circum- le
stance of their daily life, and ft Is thsre- m