Delaware tribune. [volume] (Wilmington, Del.) 1867-1877, 1870-04-07

healthy shoots Of the variety we wish to
perpetuate, the leaves are then cut off, leav-
ing a short portion of the stems, (petioIe) to
assist in inserting the bud Should the sap
run freely, an incission in the shape of at
must be made in the stock. Next prepare
the bud by passing a sharp thin blade un-
derneath the bark, commencing about ono
half inch above the bud, and terminating
the same distance below. Great care must
be taken that the germ shall be preserved
from injury during cutting, as thin bud
is mostly useless. Some parties carefully
extract the small portion of wood adhering
to the bark, but as rule think it snneces-
sary. Again the reversed T shaped incl
sion is quite frequently preferred, but l can
not see its advantages over the CID method.
Expert builders will cut deeply below each
eye Cor bud), and then by dexterous wing
of the bark, detach the same without par
ticle of wood. Gently raise the two angles
of the bark and slip the prepared bud into
its place, which if in proper condition is
easily performed. If the sap is beginning to
be sluggish, it will be needful to raise the
bark its whole length, but such an opera
tion is Indicative Of failure. 1t NOW remains
to tie the bud firmly in its place, and for
this purpose nurserymen use strips of bass
bark, but any soft substance will answer as
well, such as strong woolen yarn. In wind
ing, commence at the top, and carefully
wrap over every portion of the cut bark,
being very particular to draw the string firm
yet not sufficient to cut the bark. This tie
ing operation is one of the items too hastily
performed, and still it is one of the essentials
of success. In abwt two weeks after bud
ding, we can generally decide as to the re-
suit of our work. If the bud has grown
fast, or "tdken," it will still preserve its
freshness; but on the contrary, If resulting
in failure, it will generally be withered and
brown in color The strings must be closely
watched, and if they show signs Of eating
in, unloose them at once.
Suckers must also be rubbed or cut oil as
soon as apparent, to prevent exhaustion of
the bud ITSELF On the approach of winter,
the strings must be removed entirely, ,'and
after freezing weather the succeedingSpriny,
cut back the stock close down to the bud.
and the latter will then start out vigorously,
and ultimately form the new tree or branch.
Layering is seldom of use in propagating
fruits, excepting only the ounce and grape,
the latter may be increased rapidly in this
way. If in early Spring, and but few young
vines are desired, all that is necessary is to
open shallow basin in The soil, and after
bending the shoot down, fasten it securely
with hooked peg, and fill in the earth
tramping it firm. A slight cut is usually
made into the wood, near the bud intended
for forming roots, but this is not abso-
lutely necessary. Should large number
of young plants be required, long but
shallow trench may be opened, and the
branch placed horizontally in the same. In
case of this kind, prefer nicking be-
meath every bud, and should it prove sue
cessful, plant will thus be formed from
each eye. Summer layers of green wood
root freely, and as the shoot increases in
length, the end may be continually layered,
so that at the close of the season, We will
have a large number of new vines. The
leaves must always be removed from that
portion Of the vine placed under ground, as
they are liable to produce fungus, and conse-
quent decay. Cuttings is the method by
which we increase the currant, gooseberry,
and occasionally the ounce. To meet with
success, the present years growth alone
must be employed, and to render it doubly
sure, they should be taken off during the
Autumn, made up into lengths of to
inches in each, buried in the soil in an up
right posture, and covered with manure for
protection. In the Spring they should be
planted in slanting position, with the top
most bud alone above the surface, and the
soil pressed firmly about them. Especial
care must be taken that the soil at the ex-
tremc end is made very firm, either with the
foot, or better still, rammed with stick.
Many planters set their cuttings in rows
during the Autumn, but the frost is so liable
prefer the mode described above. Many
propagators also take particular pains to Sc
lect bud for the bottom of their cuttings,
as well as to cut the same squarely off, We
regard this as unnecessary and generally
cut with slight slope. Suckers and ran
ners are the natural increase of the black
berry, raspberry, and strawberry, and need
not the interposition of our labor to assist
in reproduction, provided small stock of
plants alone should be desired but in sep
arating them from the parent plant, there is
no need Of carelessly tearing them apart, as
so many ignorant planters usually do al
ways cut them off with knife smoothly,
and then dig carefully.