The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1870-10-05
FALL Fashions.

FALL FASHIONS.
what we nave Done and what we}are
Going to Do-Thc NIilliners' Opening
Hats and .Ronnets-Iyhicll. have 1t =
Fuss and Feathcrs-New Styles In
Nantlee-Lace OvortlresS and Jesveiry
"A nusiness Suit for women-cro-
4aet, Corsets, Sc.
NEW YORK, September "a.
If the fall openings OF fashions are VI i,s'io
importnnce In an artistic point OF view, thes
are of great advantage in giving reason iof
ho,no 70 crowd Of fashion-mongers. From
the first of September the 'openings" of vari-'
ous houses engaged in the different depart
ments of ladies' and children's clothing, begin
to take place, and continue till the middle OF
October, the third week in September being
set apart for the principal millinery openings,
which shall venture to anticipate in this
letter.
FRENCH FASHIONS.
But first, it must be promised that the war
has made sad work with French milllners, anu
threatens to destroy many OF our uearesC anu
most petted Illusions. Already the puohshers
of an English fashion magazine have sent 10
the proprietors of well known iasnlon rISs maSa,
zine in this country, requesting to be snppne9
with its plates, after they have been puollsnea1
here, offering, as compensation, the cost OF
such plates In London, and giving as q reason
for the proposition, that they can no longer
rely upon getting theirs in Paris. Great
houses begin to cautiously display me gooHe,
and acknowledge them OF American manSlac-
tnre. and dealers talk of the possibility soon Of
allowing American stamps OH articles hereto-
fore supposed to be strictly French anu En-
plish. The conical ''ronnd" hats were purely
an American invention, and are Just now pe-
ginning to find their way across the wafer.
So also we're the new shapes in large collars,
which made their appearance here lust winter
the "De MedicI," the "Marie Antolnelte"
and the "Matelot." These arc now being Of
tered as novelties in London and Paris.
NEW FALL. HATS AND BoNNETs.
The great merit of the new fall styles Is their
variety. III every one Is not snited surely II
must be their own fault, for OF crowns ana
tr.ms and tips and curtains there are all sorCs
and sizes, some forming happy and some most
unhappy combinations. In shapes there Is NO
up that were last year turned down, anu some
OF the brims widened, and some indented, and
some broad brims attached to straight Instead
OF oval crowns, and a general tendency 10
height, but less to the sugar-loaf crowns than
last season. The ''GrOndin' OF last spring re-
appears with Its high, somewhat broad crown,
straight upon the sides, and orlm turhea up ;a ac
the sides, but straight front and back. the
.tPamela" also flourishes In bonnets composed
OF silk (gros and grain yelvet,) and the little,
straight cottage bonnet which has been trying
to obtain footing for some time. but without
much success. The favorte "ro nat ol the
season will be new turban, Wi... Lish crown
uI an oval shape aud brIm turned up all round.
WHAT HATS AND BONNETs ARE MADE OF.
Hats for fall wear are principally in black
and brown straw; but there Is O. great variety
Of i1ne silk plush and beaver 10 al the ns LIN
SHADES OF brown and pearl color, with orins
turGed up with velvet, which are particularly
adapted to children md misses, and seem 10
take the plece of felt, which is much less used
than FORMERLY. Elegant silk beavers, IN fine,
/. light shades, for young ladies, are very Decom-
ingly trimmed with two long, flat ostrlcn
pl1nes, curled close, which have very soil
and graceful effect. One is always the color
of the beaver, the other may be light blne or
Nile green, or the exact tint of the velvet,
which Is generally q shade darker than the
beaver. Straw hats are trimmed with Velvet 10
match the straw, gros-graln rlDDon, NO. l!
width, and either feathers or flowers, some
times both. This admiXture of Trimmings gen
orally the evidence of bad style and poor quail
ity. One OF the prettiest shapes IN bonnels IS
q modification or improvement on the "Pame-
la;n 1t is composed of silk, or silk and velvet In
two shades, und we have also seen them ar
ranged in choice contrasting colors, with very
good effect. It has soft, rather nigh crown
Of silk, and flexible brim Of silk anu velvet,
or of two shades Of silk. A double quilting OF
silk and velvet surrounds the crown, two flat
ostrich plumes are laid over II and fastened In
front with shell ornament- the briln is lined
With silk, slightly gathered, ani ornamented
with double quilting OF velvet, and double
strings are arranged at the sides, one pair to
be tied at the back, the other under the chin,
carrying cat the idea Of the different shades, or
the Two colors, to completeness.
THE CROWN IMPERIAL.
The yery newest and most distinguished Of
the designs tor bonnets (Which, 1t may be re-
marked, are generally made now in costly
materials, and but little used for neglfSe) Is
the 'Crown Imperial" 1t has high soft
crown, somewhat indented at the top, but with
straight sides and narrow brm, bent to the
shape of the head. 1t is made OF rich silk or
velvet, and Is trimmed in very novel style,
with cocks plumes or pheasants' feathers, In
brilliant colors, mingled with tine lace harbes
or ends of oroS-grtlin ribbon, which springs
from the centre Of the crown and falls over
the sides, dropping to the brim. When the hat
is made Of silk, narrow ribbon and real lace
barbes are used for trimmings. IL is only for
velvet that feathers are employed.
NILE GREEN
has quite displaced the yellow "MeLternich"'
lace, which created such a t,TOrs two years
ago. stNilen green iS very light shade of
blue green, and Is associated with white vel
vet and beaver very effectively. It Is particu-
larly becoming to beauties OF the laircst
blonde type.
COSTUME "CoMPLET."
The new complete costumes for fall wear
are composed Of poplins, silks and velvets, in
three shades Of one color. Green, maroon
and brown are the favorite buses. The suit
consists of two skirts and basque, with pos
tillion. No sash. The body part of The whole |
dress Is of poplin, the fiat bands are ofvelvet |
the vest which is trimmed on the front of the |
jacket, the bindings and one Of tho ruffles at |
the wrists are Of silk. The tops of the sleeves /
are not trimmed. The shades are arranged so |
that the poplln shall be the medium, the silk 1
being shade lighter, and the velvet shade |
darker. Bonnets are made OF tho snme mate
rlals to match these suits, feathers and ribbons
being carefully arranged en- suite This Is In
accordance with the method which, we stated
some time age, lad begun to be adopted by
ladies Of taste and high fashion, In order to Sc
cure individuality Of design and perfect har.
mony Of costume.
EUGENIE's LAST DECREp
The last decree Of the Emprr 90 ;oouo1 q, N.
Palace of st. Cloud, was T." the sfisct that M
trained skirts would ne admitted mil S upon o; any nv
bavinn heen sF lie summer season. That It
ntanfS1aS .gnifled to her that long skirts