Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1870-02-05
NO.. 81.

splendid beefsteak and potatoes in the
morning at the hotel; mAtie friends with
the landlord, who gave me a guide book
ior railways in Spain, and some addresses
in Madrid, and left They speak patois
down there in the southwest of France,
which is halfFrench and half Spanish, and
accented like neither From Bayonne to
Burgos through the Pyrenees of which l
had some fine views. They are not very
high at this point, but are all covered with
snow, which even lies on the growing
crops at their foot on the Spanish side A
little stream divides, and bridge con-
meets the two kingdoms at this point. One
side is French, the other Spanish. You
change cars there and climate soon after,
to your infinite disgust in each instance,
for the cars leak, and they seem only to
have caught it from the skies, for they leak
IN most alarming way. You then get
your baggage examined, which is farce,
and begin ride which is a tragedy. The
cars which in France are almost empty
are now filled, sensible people going 1st
class, greenhorns going I'd. We hobbled
along as far as a place known to fame
under the cognomen of Zumarraga. The
hobble became dead halt at ) z. NJ. and
the change was SO eminently satisfactory
to the boss whoever he was, that it was
kept up merrily till p NJ, Providence
and the Spaniards alone know why, and /
had no means of making either diyulge.
The rain meanwhile turned to snow,
underline temptation ofincreasing cold, and
as there was no sign of fire we passed
jolly Christmas eve, thinking of the '.sunny
skies" of Spain. At s the halt was ex-
changed for crutchety hobble, which af-
ter sundry other mysterious relapses,
brought us to Burgos at 8 o'clock in the
morning about four hours behind time, and
cold enough to emit sparks like cat in
winter. Three inches of snow everywhere
Finally got to my hotel where | found
a large saloon, and went to bed in icy
splendors. Such a sunny cline! Christ
mas morning, more icy splendors. Mean
while, however, l had learned the word
for fire, and ratified it with pertinacity
and animation, which must have astounded
these enervated denizens of the tropics.
Modus operandi. Act l, scene l. Bell
rlngs-enter servant gibbering Spanish. I
stop that and shout fire. Servant disap-
pears with beam of intelligence. Inter-
val OF ten minutes for the chief actor to
get mad. Bell rings again-enter phan-
tom as before. II want fire." 81, ST,
signor. Exit phantom No. 2. Curtain falls.
An intermission of fifteen minutes, during
which, renewed application of the diction-
AIRY. Scene III. Bell rings Violently
ghost enters as before. Il want a fire
noV." Third ghost vanishes, perturbed,
and wagging his head. Scene closes on
an interval during which some trees are
planted and come to maturity. Scene III.
Stage occupied by small boy, and some
wet wood, which he proceeds to arrange
round match. Curtain falls, leaving the
stage shrouded in smoke, from which a
blaze may be supposed gradually to
emerge. Finally went to the station at 5
P. NJ, for the train for Valladolid 1t was
delayed by the snow, (about two inches)
and would not be in till 10 o'clock. Wait
ed till eleven, and found the train was
about 100 miles off, and did not know
when it would come Went back to hotel
and went to bed, after waiting only one
hour for some bed clothes Next morn
ing at s. A. NJ, took first class and got
two great vessels of hot water to my feet
the luxury of first class, rolled myselfin
my two robes. and got to my destination
two hours behind time Slowest nation
that ever breathed. Two-thirds of all I
have seen are beggars, and.we the most
ragged patchwork you ever dreamed Of
Got nice double room here, a coal fire,
and very nice table d'hote. They charge
| by the day in Spain as with us. Shall
stay here till tomorrow night, for it is the
first comfortable place l have found.
Ground all frozen. Heard military mass
to-day, which was very interesting from its
splendid martial music. The Spaniards
appear to have much more musical taste
than the French They sing beautifully,
and their soldiers march better than any l
have seen in Europe. They are almost
all boys. l expect this climate will last
t. j pass Madrid, and then warm These
are high lands, near the mountains and
treeleSs