The New York herald., 1870-02-06
ssThss Dinos tho World AwayS

The science Of seduction by dining d Of
early date. Our 6rst parents were tempted
by an apple, and we are told that when
Lucius Cornelius Lentulus (B. G. 50) desired
to be installed as Flamen OF Mars he gave .
sumptuous repast to L. J. Cesar, the augrr,
who was the Sweeny Of that date, and 70 .
number Of politicians of the class Ia our day OF
Norton and Genet. Macrobius has given us
the bill of fare of the then Delmonico Sea
urchns, raw oysters ad H6ituna, peloridcs,
spondyli, the fish tardus and asparagus Eve
presume Long Island). Next course Fat
fowls, oyster pates, pelordes, black and white
balani It is needless to mention that on tho
following day Lentulus was installed ~
Flamen. Somewhat later Juvenal speaks of
the seductive influence of the cuisine on the
politicians Of his time, and mentions that as
last winter the blondes were brought to bear
at some charming suppers on several OF our
Albany Senators to effect some graceful coups
of legislation, so in his time the Venus Ebria,
the great Roman blonde was brought with
similar intent to sup with Senators
Who at deep midnight ON fat oysters sups
And froths with unguents her Falern,an cups
Sat. w., 900
Nearer to our day, Napoleon, when time
had brought to him the philosophic mind,
uttered the maxim, "C'est le centre qssi gou-
oerne ss monde" and Lord Melbourne, who
had long reign of power in England, said
that there was but one dictum Of Lord Eldon's
he would acknowledge you wish to man.
age men dine them WE'LL"
II has always, therefore, seemed strange to
us that with the quickness Of this country to
catch great ideas, and while the science Of
murder, stealing and ballot stufing have been
carried to perfection as fine arts, that Of
instrument of influence has been entirely
neglected. Several of our Presidents in their
hours Of candor have absolutely acknowledged
propensity for pork and beans, and of our
great managing politicians on both sides
neither Bismarck Sweeny nor Sheriff OBrien
ever ilirt with the Falernian, and our Horace,
unlike the Augustan one, sings to fountains,
not to TASKS, and carols only to the Croton.
The first real effort to recognize dining as .
seductive art was made by that refined and
accomplished diplomat the Chevalier WikoR.
Some ten years since he brought together at q
remarkable banquet a number of the rival
political chiefs. But the political stomach was
not then ripe for his graceful gastronomy, and
men of the coarseness of the then governing
classes. could not appreciate the grace and
gayety of wit, the whim and charm of address,
the light and polished satire which had soothed
Louis Napoleon at Ham and captivated Pal
merston at Broadlands. He could not lower his
vision, and, accustomed to consort with oour-
tiers, he forgot that he was dining clowns. He
forgot also the maxim of his great master, Tai
leyrand-not to have too much zeal. He
shared, alas! the fate of all great pioneers.
His banquet was another Babel. Since this
defeat dining as an art in politics has decayed.
But time ever brings forth the beautiful There
has appeared within the past few months in
the gastronomic armament star of strange
and, as it would seem, settled brilliancy
Mr. Richard Schell, the great diner of our
day, without the forbidden over zeal, possesses
that quality which Mignet ascribes to Talley-
rand hirnself-a grand calm. In dining he has
the art Of affecting to be dazzled, rather than,
like Wikoff, dazzling himself, and smiles with
counterfeited glee at every ancient jest There
is around him, too, halo of beautiful and kindly
simplicity which disarms doubt, and in his
general aspect he rather resembles the rustic
driver in Gainsboros lovely picture Of 'The
Market Cart" Yet beneath all this charming
surface simplicity subtle spirit dwells.
He looks so bewttchingy simple:
Yet mischef's In every dimple
OF course in carrying out pursuit like this,
| requiring the most delicate manipulation, 10
man, however brilliant his genius, Gould act
alone. Robert Macaire could not perform his
graceful exploits without jacques Strop.
| And that same genius which has most shown
| itself in great commanders, in the selection Of
their assistant generals, has been shown by
| Schell.
| Mr.. SchelIs lieutenant, Sam Ward, is in the
highest sense an intellectual Lucullus. There
is nothing delicate or divine in any part Of the
earth which can be eaten or drank with which
| he is not familiar. He can tell at glance the
| pike of Lake Lucrnus from those of Medula,
and the oysters of Ephesus from those of Istri@,
and can detect from the mere perfume the
shades of age Of wine with as keen a nostriI
| as the shades Of virtue of a politician. The
report that he keeps in his cellar cask of cob
webs to make up juvenile bottles for ''frst old"
to play off on raw Western Senators is the
baseless fabrication of some unlimited serf.
| He possesses, too, most charming grace Of
| invention. At a recent dinner at Washington
he conceived-a most playful conceit-a outlet
called the cotelette la Uictinae, in which
| two outside outlets contributed their essence
to give succulence to the centre. The centre
was supposed to typify Schell, the outsides
Senators Spencer and Macdonald. And few
things can be more charming than the exqui-