Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1870-11-17

I
rounded up very high at the sides and
lett straight at the back. All the full
ness and most of the trimming is now
massed at the back, some drcssmakers
even going so far as to flounce walking
dresses AT the back, and leave them per-
'ectlN plain in front, but certainly dis
proportion and want of unity in a cos
tune is ANYTHING but becoming Flat
trimmings are now much more fashion,
able than flounces. even upon under
skirts. and are decided relief to the
eve. Never had ruflies such mania a,
during the past two seasons, and though
rufflcs are pretty and good in their place,
vet not 4 few women have nearly died
with them. Broad velvet is undoubt-
edly the favoritc trimming this winter.
uDon all fabrics except velvet itself: but
very good and lad.lik effect is pro-
duced BY using cro>scut b0lds OF the
material cloth. cashmere. empress cloth,
serge or poplin, and edgiug them on
both sides with narrow double folds of
satin or gros grain.
GRAND TOILFTrEs.
These arc composed of rich silk or
velvet, trimmed proiuscly with lace !:
muslin over skirts and ovcriresscS are
less worn than last season, though the Y
are still To tie seen. \ great many
black dresses have been made up Til.
season Tor grand toilcttcs at cost of
from $3.50 10 500, which were more
distinguished than ANYTHING in colors
which have seen. One of these will
serve to indicate the whole. The trained
skilt was bordcrcd with a ilouuce. laid
over plating Of white muslin. edged
with narrow Valcncicnncs lace. Above
the ilouncc was a thick mossy ruching.
and above this flounce of black guip-
urc lace. also headed by a ruching An
upper skirt was formed of wide
honnce Of guipure, looped up at the
sides with bows Of ribbon and bunch OF
ostrich feathers. The BODY j. made
over a jacket of muslin. with basque,
edged round with two rows Of black
and white lace, put on full, the black
over the white. Thi. falls below the
silk and completes the trimming. No
sash i required: the basque. formed by
double box plait at the back. take, it,
place. a very novel and elegant tni-
LET Is composed of pale. >almon-colorrd
gro> grain maroon velvet and narrow
White point lace. \ deep plated
flounce i, lined with velvet and set IN
with wide ilouncc Of lace. which i
caught up at the sides with bouquets of
tea roses. forms the upper skirt. while
the bodice i arranged "A, basque with
Oriental sleeves, and i trimmed to
match the skirt. \ pretty toilcqc Tor u
Young married lady consist, of plain
iow-neckcd dress OF turquoise blue silk
with loose over dress white Llama lace
This Is arranged as skirt and Jacket. and
trimmed with soft mos,v ruchcs ot blue
silk, matching the color OF tie drc--.
These rnches are made OF sewing sih
and have peculiarly OFT and delicate
elect. They are quite new. \ wide
hess". 2ofit6fnE i6hHNe WAtAa- ialiTaf aftutAI!;
To the sleeves. \ dinner dress. design
cd lor t.on>seau was completed re-
Gently which presented some novel Ic.l-
lures. II wa, light blue, trimmed with
narrow hounccs pinkcd ont upon tile
edge and headed with e,ouc-colorcd
rucne> The tunic was ~tpuc-color.
trimmed with blue. and was olcu heart
shaped with rutflc, at the neck and
wrists ~ exquisite lace. Almost ali
dresses are cut high and with ba-quc>,
scarcely "A low cut bod,lirc j. 10 be seen.
and when 1t i. there are basqucs attach
ed instead oi sash and ribbons. or
trailing flowers are garlandcd at tie
Side N the skirts
sable and seal skins have interlercd
this season seriously wi Ii the in,nnpo-
~ enjoyed by mink. Sable i now very
little higher in price than first class
mink, and of course po,>c,.c. greater
prestige. The new sable muff~ are the
same in size as heretofore, but they are
perfectly plain. The lining is thick
gro- grain, Is arranged 50 a. to form
pockets Tor the hands. the end, fitted
with elastic castings which close warm
Is over the wrists: but there are no use
les cords ortasselS or ornaments Of .ny
Kind. and the absence of these showy
vulgar appendage- has done much to-
wards restoring the ancient con,iicra-
ton III which sable fur was held. Seal
skin jackets, 50 highly valued abroad
are reduced about one quarter in price ::
a Jacket that would have cost 800 last
wear can now be obtained for so. Very
pretty sets are made OF seal skin border
ed with dark mink, consisting of muli
and collarette, but in sable and most
other iurs the long boa has taken the
place Of the collar A new dark fur.
called ''Rose Marten.'' is taking the
place of ordinary mink, and can be rec
commended for beauty and durability
Ii Is a very handsome dark fur, with
rather long hair, which is neither dvcd
nor stained, but sold in its natural col
or. Nun and long boa constitute Il
"set. Corresponding to these are the
sets OF "Arctic FOx,' a beautiful white
fur Tor evening or carriage wear. 1t j.
not 50 choice as ermine, but is very
stylish with black velvet suit and hat
trimmed with white ostrich plumcs.
HATS.
The principal feature OF winter hats
bOnnets are hardly seen-are height in
front and the handsome scarf of velvet
or rich gros grain fringed ribbon at the
back. Velvet is cut in wide, pointed
ends, which fall over the chignon and
are edged with lace or fringe; ribbon
is knotted in the centre, and has long
ends edged with knOtted fringe. Soft
''Pamele' or gypsy bonnets are much
admired, made OF blue or terry velvet,
with full lining Of black Lyons velvet.
One black ostrich tip and two matching
the velvet in color, with bow and ends
of rich gros grain ribbon, constitute the
trimming, to which are added strings
which pass under the chin, but tie a,
the side.
VELVET CLOAKs.
Form, long casaques or tunics, full al
the back, raised at the sides, and with
wide sleeves which do not crush tho
silk and lace beneath. They are very
richly trimmed with heavy crochet
embroidery, in which the smallest quan
tity Of fine-cut jet is introduced. The
border is thick knotted fringe or lace