The New York herald., 1870-07-22


st!ll more strongly does the resemblance TO old
France strike you. The women Il they do not go
ana their hair tied in knot at the back or their
heads. wear print or wlnccy dress. leather boots
ana 9ask hood ana green "a ana pSek pad cSak ,Sa
necks and the latter by string around their heels,
giving them rear elevation much like o black apple
coarse straw hats four feet wide. Ti,ey all talk
srs gsnsray SS s w@ n Te
mel; ut one year they are promoted to cotton che
IKE the negro g babies ana ,ie ron M, Two m seven
eafy t they wear ' save on on holidays, the dress
arayed IN print shirts and trousers, vcntilated
IN the stern sheets. The men wear homespun
gray trousers beef boots, homemade 1annel shirts,
blue wastcoats with brass buttons; long gray COATS
with gay arttcOored sash, and straw mats; furry
crown, or fur caps OF a similar model. The Old men
generally wear the blue red tuQxs-the Phrygian
cap Of liberty the real basque oot6aoe,
As you ride along the road You win notice with
wonder the perfect poliieness Of the people, The
moves his hat wherher he be at work In the fields or
leave house all rise coarteousiy. No one viii ven
!nre to pass IN front OF your char without per1net-
what his or her rank, IL Monsieur or Madame.
g. RELIGIOUS NATURE.
Another Norman characteristic strikes the eye In
the simple religious manifestations everywhere and
daily. Every village has its chureh-frequently tho
only decent building IN the pace.its VI
IN petilcoafs and beaver, or its Christian
Brothers In robe and Immense three -cornered felt
with crucinx. rosary, SCISSORS and preposterous
hoods. Every few miles You come across cdtuatre
before fSs wea your driver bass
carven in wood, but more frequently u plain and
weather beaten cross, to which are nailed The In.
strumens OF the Savannr's Dassion-the tnorns, the
ladder, the nails, the epear head, the hammer, the
rod, and above them the cock that pronounced the
dogma OF Peters infallibllity every one bares his
head to the priest, and II he rides by with tho nkie
Of little bell announcing that he bears the host to
dying man. every passer kneels In the dust to pray
for the passing SOUL Tue "angeus'' from the church
bell summons every one to prayer. Religious pro-
too much converted even as France is too much gov.
crned Tho church SITS like u nightmare on the
chest OF progress One.twenty-siXth OF all the land
and Its productions belongs 10 The priest and he Is
relentless In collecting his thes. The church grows
from bequests and collections and judlcious pur-
poses unIll now the Pope in Canada has the largest
fortune OF any man In America. 1t may be The
Jao,1Que or the seminary, or the parish. or what.
the Sisters 0 Mercy, but II all means thing. The
Church has an immense political power and uses it
for itS own advancelnent. Grants privileges, glIs
Office, educational laws, 1t obtains what 1t Will
TIE RESULT is SAD.
ine people are KEEP IN ignorance; Ihey learn
liberal education Is afforded them II mas religious
bias amounting 10 bigotry. They take no newspa
per5 They are prejudlced and suspicious Of any re-
form, and politically are far behind the fierce
democracy Of Berks county, aud those fabled con-
stltlencies that still their votes for Andrew jack
son. They have no Idea OF using machinery III agr
culture OF rotation Of crops OF manuring OF resting
land. The soil has been IMPOVERISHED by long cu-
ture and barely affords them u subsistence. Their
cattle, fed thistleS anu straw, mserably poor,
and IN every village is The notary who mas lent them
500 on mortgage at forty per cent and who sweeps
away Their profits year after year. The dram goes
on Their priests are unwilling tnat their docks
should emgrae. and still less wililg they that
English or Americans should come among them.
When When that day arrives the Church IN Canada has
The people themselves are simple and inotfensiye.
They are children in their superstition, their love
or gay c0l0rs, In their simple amusements Give
them spring cart and a $3.50 horse ana they are
happy. II o man comes among them who has been
semble to hear his marvellous stories, and to love
him for tho dangers he has passed. They love
Canada % and . home strongly; firstly, because the
NOSE and progress outside dazes them and troubles
them. They DO not commit many crimes; but their
Idea OF virtue Is poor; and as for Its average like
that along the Erie canal It Is ''low." The women
are pretty TIL they are 1iteen, and at twenty five
course among those who go service in the cities
after which they return home and get married. Sc
ductlon Is not q thing to be found fault with, in
seducer victim. This easy state Of things Ii not
to be wondered at. Their conversation Is gross; all
none, and high standard OF morals there capnot be-
In another respect they are lamentably bad. aude
to desertlon OF parents in their old age. Briefly, 1t
Is the state OF simple medieval European peasan-
try, curbed beneath the yoke OF prestcralt ana
saiage; their tastes and life are common, their
virtues and vices negative.
offer no excuse for this erc,t7sRs save the fact
that no other American journal has ever devoted
the midst OF httng America and possibly the readers
Of the HERALD may find this, rs well as other col
umns new and interesting
From Three Rivers to Quebec il is ninety miles by
boat, arriving at the ancient capital early IN the
morning. The best hotels are the st, Louis and the
Russell 1t will take two days to do quebec pro-
perly The first may be devoted to the ortincations
at Lewis on the opposite side Of the river to visit
TO the falls Of Montmorenc, adryc along the famous
st. FOy road, the Natural Steps the MontmOrenci
river ana the Plains OF Abraham. The second to
II
the churches, the Espianade, Durham terrace and
the Wolfe and Montcam monument. Ii there is
British ship OF war III the harbor go ana see her,
and, as true American, forget not the spot where
Montgomery fell
tourist next taxes the Magnet Or Union Ter the
LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
always crowded, the table Is poor and insufficient
ana q trip Is q kind OF necessary evil.
1 miles or + s
an immense hotel, the st. Lawrence Hall, kept by
ana ssng sooa
for driving, saddle horses procurable the society
Is very fashionable and the crowd toilets hops and
rtaliOns are all on the true Saratoga principle. II,
however, one seeks health and rest do not know
that he can do better than go TO Murray bay. where
the bathing and air are good and the living is COM
Portable and cheaper than at ambitious places.
Two or three days. at The outside, Will satisfy the
Of health Ii no, he had better take the uext steamer
for the
sAGUENAY.
This river Is one OF the wonders Of America. For
hundreds or miles IL flows, rapid and dark, between
perpendicular, volcanic rocks, through a gigantic
ssure. It's sulen banks rise hundreds Of feet sheer
from many fathOms or water. From their top the
boat looks like Wherry. Cape Torment and Cape
Eternity stand, twin sentines, at its mouth. Here
Is big bare hotel, called the Ottawa. Tadousac Is
Of the Oldest settlements In Canada, and, be-
lieve the Oldest religious mission.
Here the river is really sea, without bank WIS.,
tble, green and stormy, with here sail, there
thirty leagues lies Ha no bay, pretty pleasant
little harb0r, much frequented In summer time. The
name was given 1t by the trst v0yagers, who were
impressed at the sight OF verdure and calm after
their many miles Of rock that they burst into Olaugh-
ter.
The boat turns, winds down the black river,
mounts the st. Lawrence before the tide, anu Is
BOMEwARD BOUND.
II the tourist wishes to luXuriatc In the White
Mountains or at Portland his best route, after arrv-
in0 n OuebeC ia v the Grand Trnnk Hallway and