, 1870-11-20
NEW YORK.
Woman's Devotion to Dress.
The Cause and the Remedy.
Elegant Costumes--Fu1s-Vest Fronts
Trimming.
(fRoh orK EFRdAl. coR1HsroNp1SLl

NoasANs DEVOTION 70 Daras. =.
Ourang the delivery ,of lecture on Woman
BY Samuel os8ood, D. D.. ths reverend gen.
uemsn va moved to SAT that ths stranRest
p1csora OF nodern society ia tho devotion of
woman to dress, - subject in which men are
iesa interested than women giro them credit
1oE- Tho triumph Of the new srt Of dress, he
avowed. would never bs accomplished until
women was recognized ~ the m.sn thug, and
clothes tho secondary. How Dr. Ossood re-
conciles two propositions 80 di.metzica1l, op-
posed a the foregoing, it is difficult to conieo-
tnre. linen arc really 20 little interested In
wonin's dseas, AID 30 blarn elesa in the matter
OF fostering and encouraging tho love OF it,
how does it happen that the sole remedy LES
IN making the woman the prim-
AT and her clothes the seeonda1y
object in the choice Of companion, friend, or
wifo7 ny dear TRIBUNE, don't you be de-
luded into the belief that women Dress Tor
one another Tako the word Of = vouan
Who knows al about 1t. They-that ID, We
dress for tho men, and tho men for ua.
believe It ia generally conceded, particuiasl,
since cur late war, that noen removed from
the presence and Influence Of women becone
carelesa and aloyenlg In their habits to the last
degree; and the result vould bo precisely tho
game If the experiment could be tried of sep-
aratinG latge body Of women. taken from iii
ranks and c!aeaes, from the companicush,p Of
men. There might be numerous e1ceptions-
women who would be neat under Any eircuna-
stances, from IN inborn 1ove Of cleanliness:
but that tho same time, thought, labor,
and money would be expended upon stunning
toiieta. then a. now, no sane paraou believes
fora moment With regard to tho triumph
Of the uew art Of dreas, with al proper def
etence for DR.. Osgood's superior acumen, I
beg to tuggest that the time fos its ACCOM-
phshment will be when man have p1o-
gresaed to point where they can
discriminate between M idiot In blonde curla.
kce AID diamonds, and = clever. srree.hia'
genial ~oinan in taat years gown reu.odelod,
md heE head osnAmented with her own b1cE
hAir. The teuth fe, dreBa hAa become oue Of tho
fine arts; il has lts methods, rules, and jargon,
IN which the society mAn iA aH ambitious to be
posted - In the hieter srts Of rnu<lc and pint
irg- Ask an etgdnt about his hostesa Of tho
praT1oua evening, and you launch him at ouce
on sea of hxperbote That thre,tens to over
whelm .on- The color or the dres<. the kina
ard quslity Of the lace, the flowers, couture,
ian, and gloves zre described with = minute.
ness and eloquercc that throw Jenliaa' feebler
efforts completely in the shade. s. sou see,
mon cher, after al1, the fault Ia not eutirely
outs. The deet1e for admiration Ia ure of thu
ntronEeat instincts OF Woman's heart, and. 80
long II that Gao be seclEsd by the application
OF !i1y white, rouge, and India iuk, 10 long
will women be what they are, or no1se. But
let Adonis nod Leander, TOR one season. d.
vote themselves to the modest Juliaa aud
Heron Who, on IN allowance OF $500 year,,
ds. ss necomingty, keep Gu: Of debt. aud al.
wavb bare something to give for sweet charity's
sake. and. II we're Aiss Burdett Coa,ts, 1
would stake my entire fortune that the next
teaeon would lind our painted aud oyezdressei
Araotllas as sampIy aud modcstly ats1red as
the meat ardent reforzner could desire, II
Julia, in 4 pretty white dress, tasteful1v
trimmed with knots Of nbbon or flowers, aud
heE haiE-All her own-a la Grecque, il iovari-
.a nbly tie belle Of the evening, do you sappose
chate1sines yaru long. or undergo tho mor1i-
fcatiou and ioss Of self respect entaileS oy
bargaining with her snoliste that = bill for half
the ptlce Ct costume shall bc sent to
papa, and het own watch or diauond
ren.inde1 sb.ll be paid il weekly instalo H.
Enenta? Not bit Of II. Women are Them
selves alarmed At the extent Of the eyii. but
will never acknowledged until yon, r1tessieurs.
have tho hrm1ese to apply the scalpel to this
dangerous and d'saguring e1c1sscence. You
lanpoou until the Millennium dawns; but the
triumph cf the new art = will never b. ao-
ccmp1ished, unless you reaolutely turn your
backs upon the gorgeous chaImers, and cul-
tlvzte beauty. unadoFned. wherever you find
It. Which, Of course you couldn't bo inducsd
to do. becauee. u We dld, yuu know, pleads
to Gus pretty little fool Of wife when be
presented me tho othe1 night7 A. good luck
would hare Il. shs had on N exquisite blus
dfess and so, OF course. you know. told
her abe was : most delicious creature, md
what lucky dog Gus Vas, and compared her
couldnt have done With becoming aploTnb
II she'd been dressed like 4 Methodist OF
Quaker.
siuoe, however. tho Millennium hAan't come,
and Chicago womon re NO moro set1phlo than
the absence Of French fashion-book or plates,
to know that beautiful street costume may
be MAde Of silk, in two shades Of the pev
color known ~ London smoke. The petit
coat, OF the darker ehade, is ornamented With
= narrow bias zutae Of the Same, corded and
bound xith the lighter ELK. Above this is
f'itsse nf the light, three hngera deep, headed
by baud Of the light elk. With large cord
OF the darker color en- either eide, an upright
pun OF the light surmountinE the whole
Long ovefdress, very bout1Ant, OF the dark
elk, open in front, finished By band OF the
eane, corded With the lighte. shade, heavy
tasacl fringe. With netied heading, failing
below. Pos~lllion bodice. NTH short hasuue
fronts. and Duchesaa sleeves trimmed en- suite.
4 striking dress for young girl is OF navy
blue Cashmere, Of the finest quality; the pet-
ticoat ornamented with cross cut band Of
hesvy. luattuua black SILK, ecyeu inches wide,
edged On either ride With two tiny folds, one
plating Of the Cashmere, an inch and 4 bali
vida, on tho upper edEe, and tHo inches On
the Lowell OTernGrt quite short In front, but
falling low behind. finished by nat1ower
bAnd Of silk, With folds on the upper edge,
and fa!l OF black fringe baow. Blouse
shoulders: coat-eleeres, with cuns Of b!ack
Hi}k, edged with Caehnaere plating to CORE
epond with the pettieoAt. BeIt and full bow
Of black silk, without ends, and quilting Of
Talencienpes lace around the throst, With q
na1oT frill at thread lace over.
A costume that attracts much sttention ia 4
petticoat Of dark green silk, trimmed with tire
narrow bins rutaes OF velvet, the rama shade.
Oye1dress OF heavy green Caehmara, the
color Of the elk, surrounded by 4 wreath OF
fetn-leavee, II L lighter shade Of fue, soft
wool ents oidory, and fall q crsxd wool
A distinguished street dresa is Of blsck silk
Nth halr-lne8 OF white. The garniture Of
tho underskirt ia 3 narrow bus Iuf1le OF the
came on the edge, and wider one ADORE,
vandsked. the points trimmed with row Of
MnEes lase a1d na1roW white silk fringe, and
zsry full. Overdresa closed in front, aud
slaAhed jIcket, trimmed to cos1espond.
4 novel costume exhibited IL I petticnat Of
brown Cashmere, with pltsse Of silk, the eame
shade, finger deep, below bias founce
Of tho Cashmere, three fingers in depth,
forming tho heading. c4saque ovendress Of
the CAahln ere, and small pelarine CAGE With
long ends, tied in front,-both eiaborato!y or
nanaented with black passense7tnie ie AID fringe.
An admired costume Of velvet and ailk hrs
Petticoat Of black velvot, trimmed with
staisht aounce Of soft, hsa.y black SIX. twu
fingers deep, laid In broad box plata On the
lower edge of the founce Ia narrow ftipged
1ufHe, in small box platts, beaded bv three
folds and rossleuu Of silk. Two folds and :
rauieau eonfne the plaits 1t the upper edge.
0ver.skiH open in front, and drawn back At
trimmed On thu 1owsr edge to correspond WITH
the pettfco2t-z row Of machine stitching
holding the ,plaits above. Short cas4qre Of
eilk. With i velvet Iest aniahed en- saits.
4 costume, remarkable for it's elegant aim
plicity, furnished byA leading French house,
ia ! promenade arese Of soft, heavy siIk; CON.
poeed Of full, single slrs, otnar1ents1 with
two etsnt hiaa -dnuneea Of the aane, With
t1]f-inch hens On The lover edge,-ths bot
tom aouncc seven inches deep, the upper one
eix the headng Of esch bias band Of aalk,
three inches widc, and II upright box-piai:ing
ordunble nlk, two and \ half inchAs IN width,
the tpacss between the plaits fxatened up
aSalnet the akirt, md the plaits drawn down
over tho bands in ecallops or Eaves Of silk,
forming novel and beautifu gaznisaze: No
ovenht \ abort, strzighs sscque Of IGpns
velvet. edged with : band Of dark; sahe,
twenty inches vide, with nauow bands On the
tleeves. 4 fnl1 ruchs nf thtead lace It the
neck and small sable hos complete the toilet.
LCuENK- :
The following Is description Of costume
worn br the womku who, for the past aftsaa
years, has set the fashion to Europa; Eho has