The Wheeling daily intelligencer. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1865-1903, 1870-06-07
Summer Fashions for Gentlemen
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Inc luShl0naDle cOaS lot Tie ordinary
uses of life are the frOck of the D'Orsay
type, and the jacquette with the collar
quite square in front and the lapelS rolling
low, to be Joined by a single button. The
ffOck has but two buttOn-holes In the la.
pels, and Is fastened by two, three, and
four buttons. The i1cquctte Is often fast
ened by strap Of the material and two
buttons, n very pretty and convenient
style, and specially suited to those trim
agile youths Of inCipicnt wisdom, who arc
Glorious, DER all the ills Of life victorious
when they find themselves clothed in new
garments. All morning costume Is long.
wasted, while skirts are Of moderate and
natural length. Serge and silk facings
arc still fashionable, and fine, narrow silk
braids are the inevitable edgingS, But.
tons are of sensibly moderate size, and
tor promenade and business should be
covered with either the material of the
coat or facing. Our young extremists
have for some time INDUCED in kind Of
insanity which they called the Egyptian
cut Of figure" Into the shoulders Of their
coats were inserted pastebOard and hair
cloth paddings which broadened, squared
and raised the shoulders in way which
might hayc been Egyptian, but was Ger
tainly not graceful. In coming back to
the natural these denominations have met
\ their easy doom. The shoulders may be
us wide us possible, but they must be
sloping in obedience to the acknowledged
model of the American figure. Square
coats are little worn, except the very short
ones for Office and sporting These are Of
velvet, Sea Island cotton, or OF tweed
showing q twill on the surface, and gcner.
ally made from Scotch mountain sheep
wool. The bagginess and devil.mAy. care
air Of these saCqucs ought to Danish them
from mortal vision,
Pantaloons are Of oaSy and graceful size
and shape. They are generally full, with.
out obscuring the shape Of the leg, and
curve out over tho foot with n more de-
Cidcd sweep than Of old. For negige they
have plated tops, and taper regularly to
the instcp Checks md mixtures are less
popular than are delicate hair-line stripes
Of little darker shade than the back
ground. Side-bands are still in fashion
but must not be very wide. Tight enough
To define beauty and loose enough to dis
guise uglineSs, the pantaloOn Of the period
Is decidedly admirable. There is u deal
of character in pair OF well made panta'
looms. Waistcoats remain low and are
made with and without collars. The
handsome rolling collar always gives dig
nity 10 costume, while the CollRrlcSs
waistcoat appears unfinished. The double
breasted waistcoat is rarely seen Of late.
Three and four buttons urc the standard
numbers. Waistcoats are worn TO match
either coat or pantaloons with equal effect,
Promenade coats Of fine, dArk.blue broad.
cloth, almost black, arealways elegant and
becoming. There is no color more univer.
sally becoming to men than the dark blue,
Suits Oflight gray goods, bound with mar
row black braid, are somewhat worn, but
are TOO pronounce.
A few suits of white flannel and linen
are making, but don't promise to be very
popular. With the advent Of light, airy
woolen goods delicate grays, drabS
pearls, and oliYes-thG reign Of white
beganto wane. II Is, after all, fit for only
the two most pronounced types of srS0nnel
the flashing brunette and the sentiment
tai blonde Of lblue. eyes and silky, fiaxen
mustachc. 800
b Fun dress has but few.variations The
dark.blue coat with its bright buttons Is
firmly established, and Is not to be dis.
lodged by any old fogyism. 1t is worn as
much as Is the black Of a ccntury's rule
perhaps even more. In cut the lapel. Of
| the dress.coat rolls nearly to the bottom
of the waist in front, and the shoulder and
side seams are rather sharply curved, Us is
always the case when the waist Is short
and all full dress is short wasted. The
sleeves arc of medium width, and taper
more than they did last year. A cuff Is
simulated by a row Of stitching, 81 inches
above the hand. The collar is narrow
and square In front; It Is short, and con-
trolls q wide turn Of lapel. The skirt d
half swallow.tail, and extends TO within
three inches Of the knee, while tho waist
Ia three inches less in length than the
skirt. When the coat is blue the vest Is
SiIvery.watered silk, made TO roll very
low and close with three buttons covered
with the same material, or else Of dia.
monds, emeralds or pearls. The diamond
buttons are often set In small golden
stars, and have a princely air. When the
coat is Ofblack, the waistCOat il generally
oFsilk Of light tint, with a fine silk bind
ING and buttons covered to match. Tho
pantaloons to be worn with the blue coal
are ofthe most delicate and beautiful pear
color. Those worn with the black are Of
fine black moleskin. Plain seams for full
dress always.
Dress suits arc generally stitched instead
of being bound, while with morning cos
tunes Il is the reverse, though these art
sometimes stitched US matter Of person
al liking.
The iull.drcss shirt has plain bosom
merely one largeEplait exquisitely stitched
Delicate bits Of embroidery Of tiny leavet
and tcndrils arc some times worn by dar
ing independents.
As little jcwclry US possible is worn
The smallest of diamond and emerald
studs arc preferable to any other. A gen
tlClnan should never permit watch chair
10 be visible with evening dreSs. This Il
an ordinance that most Americans cithel
arc not conscious Of or will not obey
Every one may wear q seal ring at al
times, but It should on no account DO o
any flashing stone. A rare cameo Of
handsome agate is the most appropriate
and tasteful, sI . ...
Sleeve buttons are gradually growing
smaller, and the oblong is best liked.
The fashionable hat Is 81 inches deer
crown, with a.brim which eXctes rivalry
among tho manufacturers, half of whom
declare that II Is narrower and less rolled
than 1t was last season, while the othel
half proclaim exactly the reverse. Tho
hidedus morning bands, whichm every
wcarer look like widower, no mattel
how Joyous the face underneath, and
which wero mite AZ absurd ng woman,