The Wheeling daily register. [volume] (Wheeling, W. Va.) 1864-1878, 1870-10-22
CHIr.CHAT ON FASHION.

on with row OF DIack velVeti plack
faille casaques close fitting to the figure,
the five basques being turned back with
revers at each angle; these reyers are
lined with blue silk; a long knotted
fringe edges the basque. The revers on
the bodice are lined with blue silk, like
wise the mousquetaire cuffs, which are
decorated with fringe. A plated tarla-
tan frill is tackled inside the bodice.
Another is a Tossore foulard dress.
Round skirt, with deep founce plated
a la Russo, the heading to which is sewn
down with a row of black velvet. This
heading describes wide festoons-fve on
the skirt-and these are indicated with
black velvet bows. Tunic to match
the rounded ends have the same dimen-
sions as the undulations on the skirt.
1t is open to the back of the skirt at
the back, where it describes double re-
verse folds. Casaque with long postil-
lion basque at the back, and long waist
coat points in front; pagoda sleeves.
A very pretty dress Of ecru colored
chaly is trimmed with lack blaze. Three
scalloped.out founces round the skirt;
basques of black lace to the bodice,
coming down as far as the top of the
highest flounce. Jacket bodice short
and slit open at the back, and length
ened into two scarf lappets in front.
This jacket is trimmed round with black
lace, and with a ruche Of ecru silk.
Demi-wide sleeves remain open up to
the elbow, and are completed by lace
border.
A new costume for two colors has
lust been finished. The first skirt, OF
violet silk, is trimmed round the bot
tom with wide pleating, and the skirt
is cut in deep points to fall over the
pleating. Tunic OF unbleached fou-
lard, fitted to the waist by violet band,
fastened with a pleated tab. Bodice
open in front, and trimmed with lace;
a pleating of violet silk is put under the
bottom; the sleeve to match the skirt.
The skirt of the tunic is pointed in
front, trimmed with a gathered flounce
and forms pouff behind. Hat of Eng
lish straw, with brim turned up on each
side. Scarf veil of frou-frou gauze, and
tuft of violet feathers placed at the
back of the hat, which is bound with
violet ribbon.
Velvet costumes will be the fashion
this winter.
A handsome black silk dress lately
exhibited is made with round skirt
bordered with a deep flounce, which is
trimmed with wide plating of white
tarlatine, which is covered with black
lace sewn on with narrow black ruche.
The deep founce has for heading sec
ond plating of tarlatane, likewise with
lace. Tunic round in front, trimmed
to correspond, and W.T. pouff at { e
back. High bodice, cut ont square in
front and trimmed like the skirt; pa
coda sleeve. White lace chemlsette,
with narrow velvet run in and out of the
lace. Black gros grain sash.
Another pretty costume was of blue
French poplin, garnished with silk and
velvet OF the same shade, the differ
ence in the materials causing an ap-
parent difference in the shades. The
skirt was short in front. but trained
about four inches in the back, and Or
namented with garnitate composed OF
alternate folds of silk and velvet, set
diagonaly at intervals between
two broad bands of velvet, edged
with silk outings which encircled
the skirt. The overskirt, which
was exceedingly long and very full, was
looped differently on each side, and it
would be difficult to decide which was
the most artistic and graceful. The
position basque, trimmed with bands
OF velvet, edged with silk cuttings, had
a velvet vest, and the half flowing
sleeves had broad, round velvet cuff.
A "Tyrolieune' of blue velvet, orna-
'manted with long white ostrich plume
falling low over the light tresses, COM
pleted the toilet
In hats there are various new shapes,
but all high in the crown. The Nal
teese, or the black straw, trimmed with
thick rouleasx of black velvet and
black feather, fastened on with Nal
teese cross in jet and ruby. The Condot-
teri, Of white sparterie and crimson
velvet; aigrette OF feathers, shaded from
crimson to black, and fastenings Of cut
black Jet. The Cavalier of brown
straw, trimmed with golden-brswn
feathers, brown velvet, and feather-like
aigrette of cut jet. And the Chaperesse,
of white felt with thick black curled
feather, thrown back on one side, and
an aigrette of bright colored plumes in
front, with jewelled tastenings. Long
gauze veil.
Few pulled or shirred buttons are
seen. The material is laid plainly on
the frame, with double fold around
the crown and along the edge as bor-
der. A full irregular bow Of two or
three shades of velvet, or royale, or
faille, bow with many loops and ends,
is placed directly in front behind the
revers. Four overlapping folds are en-
twined about the crown, and are tas-
tened by another bow far back on the
left, from which two streamers are left
hanging. Two ostrich tips and flower
cluster fill up the vacant space on the
right. A lace ruche, flower or velvet
band is placed inside the front revers,
for face trimming, or else the
front is left plain to worn over Marie
Antoinette puffs Of hair. Strings to tie
| i. Al IL - NJ. 10
IL ribbon, the latter width being pre-
ferred on account Of the increased size
of bonnets. Shaded bonnets have one
light and one dark string. Two pairs
OF strings are seen on many French
bonnets, one pair to tie for use, the
others to be closely tied down on the
chest, or else left hanging Velvet rib
bon is much used for strings. There
is more trimming ON the right side Of