The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1870-09-20
SIX DOLLARS A YEAR:

NTH o,,tn,ra Soi9 Sss.9 are generally u1mmeQ
gros gram stitched lin the centre. There is
nothing softer and more graceful in effect than
cashmere, hanging as 1t does an snch exnnisita-
~ - aftlsuc folds. All soft Woollen materials
,1si,,, VIII oe N favor-merinos, Berlin, and
iauiesI ,atae ciotns, serge, etc. Poplins area
.linS " S! costumes Of "a .ccloth (Which
lighter than, broadcloth are made nj m for win
ter. These cloths are nearly alI In darE ricS-
colors-and indeed, IL Is evident that with the
advent Of more artistic; drapings we NAV vel
come the graver, more distinguished colors.
lisa comfort to know that the startling compii-
cations In tint which have obtained during
the last tew years, are eat last fadtg into OBJ
scurity.. The different shades Of dark .blue.
gray, garnet and rich nutty brown, promise to
be the most popular. r.-sSolt, all-wool plaids in
green, blue and black. trimmed with black
velvet or gros grain, will again be seen, With
agate buttons, are imperative. The loose
jackets slashed in the back will be worn this,
season, except In the shawl costumes, and
even they are thought to be prettier halt-dt-
ting. These costumes-afe 80 much worn now
that many women hesitate in buying them,
not caring to toss their individuality into the
stream Of gray mixture. The haudsolnest
ones are imported, and cost from $3G to
$40.a' They are made, from. shswlsf of,seE-
quisite fneness, possessing not only fringe,
but sott-shaded borders. The overskiIt and
loose jacket have these borders stitched Sn
above the fringe. Pretty suits, ,irvery dark gray,
with borders shading into black, are shown TOR
second mourning. Elegant suits In dark
Scotch plalds, with halfftting jackets. have
long scarfs Of the same, which are passed over
the right shoulder and tiedinder the left arm,.
a few inches to the back and down upon the
skirt. The sleeves Of the imported shawl COS
tunes are usually coat; while those ;aanufac-
tured here. costing from S12 10 SIG, have loose
hanging sleeves. "A few, imported suits are Of
plaids, 9 little heaS!er than the shawls, and
trimmed with woollen fflnge made expressly
to match. These suits are Very attractive, and
cost $35. Early fall suits in japanese, ,silEs and
In black, brown, and gray gros grain, are elab-
orately trimmed with lace and fiat pleatlngs.
Very distinguished costumes Of black grOs grain
have undraped overskirts and wide sleeves,
and are trimmed with broad fiat pleatings Of
the same, beneath which are visible row each
OF black thread and white Dnchesse lace.
Velveteen. has disappeared Velvet will .ibe
worn somewhat as q part OF costumes, but not
as whole. Sailor costumes win be seen on
the street this fall, worn by young. girls with
slender, erect figures. These are rather quaint
and dashing In effect and ARE made Of gray
and dark blue cloths into skirt and blouse with
broad sailor collar. The collar and sleeves are
edgr6 with narrow band and pleating Of
black gros grain, while the skirt has broader
trimming of the same round the bottom. a
looped overskirt Of the gr0s grain Is ,wprr with
these suits. When they are Of dcfic8te Ystay
tint. gray silk Is used for trimming and over
skirt The collar and the deep cuffs are some
times embroidered with anchors in black or
gold thread.
o Cloaks and wraps are not very abundant.
The universal '.suth drove them from the field
long ago, and, though they make fitful and
desperate charges every season. they are
never very successful. The most striking i'm
portations are half-ntting Jackets Of 'satiny
dark blue or brown cloths, slasheds behind.
and sometimes st the sides. They are gene
rally trimmed with heavy silk embroidery or
delicate round braids, stitched on In elaborate
and trimmed with short furs-oMefy for rdriv-
ing. Open breakfast jackets, OF dark cash
mere, with vests Of the same. trimmed with
brilliant Oriental embroidery, are Thoroughly
captivating. ..oI.a9 IL ..iii-.4ils
Satin has reappearsd as trimming, and win
grain folds and pleatings maintain !their-n,--
tendency. There ie much reluctance mani
tested In giving mp the bias velvet bands, but
Paullna says that they are doomed. They VIII,
however, still be used upon costumes Of black
silk. Gimps are handsemeri than ever, and
silk applique Is used with charming effect. Jet
trimmings are again to be worn, but In new
styles The beads are cut in !innumHrabae
facets and the gimp is hidden, ss much as pos
.eible. Lace viii be much used for trimming
Immense quantities Of Valencfennes and Ouch
case are sold. The Duchesse is very striking
In effect, but Paulna thinks Valenciennes pre-
ferable, as it is much softer and more airy. =
Evening dresses in satin and fatle, with
gauze overdresses, are best liked at present.
They are trimmed with pufs, pleatings. lace.
and very full silk ruches. Puts are rarely
seen now, except on evening dresses. Muslin
pleatings, under silk ones, Will still be used.
Gros grains with satin stripes are usually worn
with lace, oveTdreSses, the long-trained skirt
sistIng entirely of heavy materials, as satin,
velvet and silk, the short skirt with court
train is more graceful style than the long
skirt and undraped royerdress. The new waist
for evening dresses is quite high On the
shoulders and at the back, but very low on the
bosom. The neck is edged by wides upright
frill Of lace, in imitation Of the antique run.
will be worn by young girls; about these dress
es not particle OF color mustappear. ga
The fall bonnets are enchanting little affairs,
gipsyish in shape, with dainty curtain CT silk
or lace coquettishly peeping over the heavy
brcids of hair. The trimmings are "scarfs of
gros grain, royale, or velyeE with: delicate jet
aigrettes and pendants, ostrich tips, and soft,
crushed roses. Lace Is used mostly as back
ground for flower clusters. The scarfs are
laid IN folds about the saucy little crowns, and
fastened on the left side by bows and Jet orna-
ments. and are left hanging In two streamers
Of unequal length. Bows, feather tips, ard
flowers nestle on the top and over the right
ear in delicious confusion. A very pretty bon
net of clear white straw for September has, =
cape and scarf Of black gros grain and protuse
clusters of white roses and black aestrich tips
.nested In black lace. Many velvet bennets are
in different shades OF, color, eXquisitely- grad
uated. Most of these are in the soft, quiet
colors, which harm6nize with all compilations,
and for t.lightng upp they ;dependaupon flow
er clusters Of delicate br1lliancy. Al boAnets
have gros grain or velvet strings. AS a mat
ter of artistic form, all round-faced women
should wear these tied under the chin, while
those with oval faces should tie them under
the lett ear.
Round hats. If less audacious in effect, are
certainly prettier, and more becoming than
those Of last fall. The high crowns and i'm
coherent trimmings which gave o flppant air
to the sweetest, most spirituele face, are dis
appearing, and in their places we have very
distinguished hats of the English turbRn
shapes, with moderately high, fiat crowns and
rolled brims. They are charmingly trimmed
with broad scarfs of velvet, gros grain and
royale. These scarfs are arranged In folds
around the crown, and the frinSed ends are
left floating at the LEFT side, Soft, massed
clusters of feather tips, long ostrich plumes,
peacoek's breasts and flowers are disposed IN
carefully careless way. over the crown.
Black, brown and gray s.rawsr are 80 covered