The New York herald., 1870-09-23
oPENIN DAY.


A Stroll Through the Marts Of Fashion-The
Latest Styles-Wh to Wear and How to
Wear It-Parisian Rule at an End
and American Independence
Asserting Itself-A Blood A.
less Revolution
Although 1t ID impossible to get together cOnven-
tion OF milners In this city to decide upon general
opening day for the display OF fall fashions and
thereby give an 0flcial character to the various
styles and materials brought out each year, yet
yesterday may be considered as the real opening day
OF the season. Some houses have not yet received
their fall stock; but the larger number were crowded
with ladies anxious TO know what to wear for the
fall and winter and how to wear It, Broadway pre-
sented very gay ana brilliant appearance from
morning till evening. and o bewildering stream OF
fair humanity thronged tho doors and Salons Of the
fashionable modtstes. Wondering groups Inspected
"loves Of bonnets" and Jaunty looking cOstumes
and the feminine world was IN tremOr OF excite
mont
1t is now fully decided that the empire even Of
fashion is to be entirely banshe1 from France; and
although Eugenie resigned her sceptre but short
time since, already speculations rife as to who
shall succeed her as Empress OF Fashion, and pro-
mulgate DEGREES Of the styles which shall be held
supreme.
While In Europe they are debating about revou-
ton and new governments there Is no reason why
we Americans should not assert our supremacy and
establish empire, or, rather republic, OF fashion
OF our own, with the broad platform OF economy,
beauty and utility. for which the foundation is
already laid and decide the styles not only for
selves, but dictate them to the rest Of the world
Surely none can be more worthy to do this
than our American ladies' who are so emil
nenty fitted, by their taste, innate refine
ment and keen sense of appropriateness,
to solve this great problem Of dress, on which 80
much depends. And they will inevitably do 80.
Already have they developed striking originality
and individuality in their attire, which has long
been tacitly and is now openly recognized abroad.
as is evidenced by the use in one OF the leading Lon
don fashion journals Of American fashion plates, fur
nished from the emporium Of one OF our leading
modtstes here in New York. These are all essen.
TALLY American fashi0ns for this establishment has
never followed blindly in the footsteps Of any Euro
pean leaders, accepting everything without ques
ton, but has always modified and reconstructed
the styles to suit our country and necessities
fully realizing that American fashions, like
the national IDEAS are and must be progressive.
Our American bellies were never satisfied with re-
juvenated antiquities fact well known to French
and other European nsodtstes, who, when preparing
styles for this MARKET were obliged to exert them
selves to the utmost to have them superior to all
Others knowing full well that they would be sub
ected to the severest criticism And this is not the
criticism Of mere creature Of fashion, obeying
meekly the dctum Of one especial leader, but the
expression OF the decided convictions Of women
accustomed to think and act for themselves, who
make dress subservlent to their needs, and not a
mere matter of form. To this sub0rdination of
to the individual may be traced the success of
American fashions. American ladies abroad have
long been easily recognized by the quiet elegance
and appropriateness OF their dressa nationality as
It were being stamped upon their whole ATTIRE dis
This freedom aud originality In dress are not the
growth Of day. but are slmply theiasserton Of the
breast of every trae American 1t was this spirit Of
independence which moved the New York firms OF
70 carry eme war ts onse
their New York establishment on one OF the most
fashionable boulevards Of Paris boldly proclaming
It as ''branch," and advertising American styles
| IN the same manner as we have heretofore ad.
vertised Paris and London Styles This is
dicted. London already accepts and promulgates
| American styles as the best, and Paris and oil
those % to W." Whom % we must look as leaders % q our
national fashions, are thinking Intelligent women,
REFORMS Of in some respects than the
| much needed one in dress; and, having before them
| the experiences and failures Of their European
be able to surnount all difficulties, and firmly estab
| lish beyond q doubt the supremacy Of American
ideas OF dress. With unbOunded resources at their
command 1t Is impossible that they should fail. II
| 1t were necessary to have assistance from either
| French or German, surely we have enough OF both
elements here at our doors, without sending abroad
| for It, 49,.
how tenaciousy they have chung to the short walk
ing costume spite OF all foreign attempts to do away
| with them few, not having SUFFICIENT energy OF
independence to break away from the old thraldon
| or blind obedience, have gv0n them up, but these
are only rev In comparison; me SNORT walking
Will remain 80 as long as our ladies retain the repu
tatiOn for good common sense which has become
Les costumes camaieux still continue TO be tres
Ia mode. the same fashion being repeated IN bonnet
Of this style are mncn sought
To arrange these toilets effectively th
most refined and artistic taste Is necessary
put in most cases only two. An elegant dinner
dress Is In three shades OF green, the trimming com
so lrtisncally blended that one experiences th
same .easure IN looking at 1t as they would III view
Ing ns painting nS 0l oMe ove a4
with high corsages, either square or heartshaped
This Is another evidence OF tn, Independence OF ou
LADIES of fashion, who never fully endorsed the Gus
| tom imposed abroad Of ladies invariably appearin.
decolletee In full dress Thus have they ever uset
their discrimination, rejecting unhesttatngly al
that was bad or inappropriate and retaining on.
| the good.
In these days OF reform ana economy In dress 1t II
quite possible for lady to be styshly dressed at
very little expense. A number or walking costume
may be arranged with o single black silk skirt, IL
combination with O variety oI pOlonases: Almost
any color looks well with black, and 1t takes but
small quantity to make an elegant tunique. Tht
favorite materials for this purpose cashmere
| satin de chine which should be trimmed with rcl
fringe with heading, or broad bands Of the mate
rial, edged with narrow guipure lace.
Feathers are to be an important feature In trim
mlngs for the coming season on dresses rs wei
as b0nnets and cloaks This trimming will prnci
pally be used IN conjunction with lace, which vii
also be iavorite garniture. On suits nat trim
mings will predominant, not TO the entire exclusion
| however OF nOunces and ruf1es which have 80 lonl
| been the favOrlte garniture
| A characteristic business suit at Nine. Demorest y
is made in handsome dark green CLOTH the skirt o
q comfortable walking length, trimmed with a deel
facing OF black grOs grain, cut III broad scallOps ol
the upper edge and finished with rich silk galO0n