New-York tribune., 1870-09-29
THE FASHIONS.
AUTUMN STYLES AND MATERIALS IN DRESSES,
RONNETS, ETC.

Cotbes saws the Professor have given individuality
distinction social policy clothes have made of us"
The Professor maintained that all human earthly inter
ess hooked up and buttoned together and held by
clothes He insists, in many words: "SOcety is
founded on cloth. II sails through the infntude OF
depth as on Faust's mantle" Teufesdrockh finds
world OF philosophy in old clothes eXclaming in his en-
thusiasm, "Frends trust not the heart Of that man to
whom old clothes not venerable"
Paris dear, bewitching beautiful Paris, in sackcloth
and ashes, New-York in sorrow the most profound
that the Empress bathed tears in the depths OF de-
spar did not forget her wardrobe that the subtle fi
Mathde did not forget her sixy-two trunks uecp
touched the heart of society bellies, whe win uo
eclipse of the High Priesesses of Fashion our '"ous
inyountariy turned 10 the philosophy OF Ola c'O".s
This, however, was but temporary lhsani'! 'A'' -
Cawber for whom many of feel an ainnly IN NaS'
amount OF talent but unfortunate ckoi oash c"p"'
is multiplied ar remutplied in women shouiu "onun
he reduced 10 old clothes for lack OF some one 10 se' Tue
fashionsq Forbid il shade OF Lady CreaIney soweroy'
who so pathetcay insists cone need not DO shabby
evan IN the presence of the Lord" Therefore, American
women find themselves equal TO the situation The In
visible sceper moved by Fashion is far potent than
the sneers of Diogenes, the words of mythical Ty-
coon or the inherent selfShness of ROchefoucauld
Because the beautiful Imperial goddess to whom we all
yielded willing allegiance. like crushed dove, a
wounded eagle despoiled Of power, shall American
women wear old cothesi "Never" cries Miss Japonca,
in mental retrospect of herself, arrayed in turned
and last years hat "Neyer chOrused the rest OF
who holding recent indignation meet
ing in Madame de Ding Dongs magnificent atelair and
TO pass that the regular "openings" were
duly advertised fashions cleaned in Kaleidoscope
radiance from plate glass windows. Broadway was a
most brilliant panorama, for
Midas we read, with wondrous art Of old,
whate'er he touched at once TRANSFORMED to gold.
This. modern mOdstes can reverse with ease -.
Touch them with gold, they'll turn to what you please
And dictate fashions. New-fork is great out
who shall be its prophet American women abroad
were always preGminent their elegance, grace and
perfect tasten dress Their toettes distinguished
for independence well perfection and now the time
has approached to test their originality.
II Is proved that elegance and economy can he united
The black silk Oyerskirt and pOlOnase continue TO be
very popular and can with variety of skirts
or an elegant costume is combined OF the fine French
cashmere in black pOonase over rich black silk skirt
These can be trimmed with bands Of the same edged with
feather trimming guipure. Black velvet in
ribbon OF cut on the bias will be favOrite trimming
edged with reveled ruches of the dress material
Feather trimming united to lace is very graceful, but
too fra for anything but full dress II will, however, be
much on bOnnets. FOunces and rufes will contin
ue in favor, although those to whom redundancy Of
trimming is mbecOming can find consolation in fiat
bands as being equally fashionable. Black costumes are
undoubtedly the most distingu6 walking suit Of ex
Quistoly fine black cashmere, mpOredhs made in pO-
lonase half fitting closely fastened at the throat with
coat sleeves trimmed embroidered in jet by hand,
SILK supcTbly trimmed with full pufngs and ruches Of
silk and velvet.
As talk very knowingly Of business, and rebel
against much waterproof as being unganly and unbe
coming wha business suits are being preferred to look
charming even while following their business prOpensi
ties To this end We handsome dark cloth of very blue
and dark green the skirt Just clears the ground faced
up with black silk finished of with fine black silk gal
loon long, halifttng pOonaise, with jaunty side
pockets and coat sleeves trimmed in accordance.
rJund COachmau's cape with hood is attached not
fastened. to this extremely becoming suit particularly
adapted for caprcious climate. Twled goods are
taking the place Of reps such cashmeres and menoes
consequence of the softer goods falling into more
graceful artistic folds when the pOonaise is lOoped
The OF single coors, such blues, grays, green's
etc. in these different shades, 1t being i'm
portant that the hat bonnet and gloves
must match the darkest shade.
A very elegant walking costume of Irish poplin was
trimmed with bias bands Of silk edged with narrow
fringe. The skirt silk of the rose shade trimmed
with bands to correspond in poplin. extending to the
waist pOlonase, rather closely fitting, with deep
pag0da reaching quite to the edge Of the upper
garment with silk rcvers edged with pOplin closely fit
ting the throat superb carriage dress Of mulberry
silk is trimmed with sable fur black lace, and fiat
gimp A court train and basque are attached TO the
short skirt Two Gounces adorn the front and side
brcadths placed on in large double box plats. The
heading tbe upper 1ounce formed of band OF sable
aud gimp The train is faced and turned back IN
reyers wi IN white satin, which also interminged with
the trimming of the corsage, sleeves, &c.
Jet is revived in all the imported suits of black cash
mere IN superb mixture Of passementerie and fringe,
sometimes even wrought in lace. One very exquisite
evening toilet consists Of violet satin of that rare tint
that springs from the viOets' bed. The lOngtraned
skirt open in front and ooped back with violet cords dis
closed the white satin skirt covered with round point
lace. The cOrsage high, heart-shaped, elabo-
rntely trimmed with pufiDgs of tulle. round point,
and INNINGS OF white satin. Very wide violet sleeves
lined with white satn trimmed to correspond The per-
fecoD OF taste is manifested in dress contrasts The only
exaggeration Gf it may be called is the rather pro
ones contrast of the bright Mexican blue against wine
color or maroon Styles Of this kind only be worn
with the incest attention to detail in regard 10 the enSe
6e Messy frnges knots Of narrow ribbon by the le-
gon heavy bullion frnges every variety of lace, Mar
quise pus Of past age made in narrow reversed box
paits all these are necessary aduncts Of the different
II easily to be observed that so far there
are.nO striking changes manifested in dress.
In bOnnets this change is more perccptibe They are
decidedly larger and the styles more coquettish, the
colors containing more Of variety. For example,
charming gypsy bonnet Of black velvet in little cloud
OF tue from which peeped forth cluster of dewy tea
roses with black ostrich tips for foliage. The style
is raised high against the corOnal OF back
hair that not for the exposure OF the brow, II
might easily pass for a round hat; strings are also
attached which marks the difference, tied loosely be-
meath the chin. Very elegant bOnnets made Of two
and three shades for example, mulberry velvet may
be pped with lighter shade in silk, with feather tips
still lighter. Or velvet bonnets trimmed with folds
Of silk OF the color ostrich tips and flowers grace
fully clustering together. An exceedingly attractive
bonnet composed Of four shades of green in velvet and
silk, with the usual melange Of fringe flowers and
feather tips
Round hats exqusitely pretty in the gypsy shape
a very pquant hat most charmingy arranged Of
Nile green velvet with ruches Of silk edged with mara
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