The New York herald., 1870-12-11

wheR the decrees or PARIS millIners, dressmakers
ana Ing res ceased TO emanate from the besieged
capital ana all the notabililies OF imperial salons
ned TO Belgium IL was supposed that Brussels would
become the ce ire OF fashionable life abroad.
Truly, ambassadresses, princesses. the wives OF
marshas and generals did assemble in this gay httle
city, In this miniature Paris, as the French
| themselves call II, but fashion was the last
| thing they thought and talked OF at their
reunions. The war, the allabsorbing cruel war: tho
suierings OF The army the gradually dawninQ per-
ceptlon that France would be crushed; the natural
anxiety OF mothers. wives and daughters concern.
| ing their kindred; their premature mourning and
ervent charitiesa these things turned the current
OF their thoughts towards unaccus,omed channel.
one very different from that in which they have TOO
long slumbered t
Too long. for there Is In the worship OF DRESS its
petty contriyances and exact perfection such an
nfnity OF detail that the mind which takes 1t all in
must reject every other occupation. A woman who
is always wen dressed, whose toilet Is always par
cularly well adapted TO the place SHE Is in always
fit for the hour Of the day and circumstances In
which is seen, car be In all emergencies nothing
| but well dressed woman. Consollng 1t Is TO be
able TO say that In the present distress OF France
her daughters are not well dressed; that their at
tempts at toilet when made have been failures; that
the high and true OF this once fair land have thrown
| aside all ees ncies and visit in sombre brown,
olive green, black and gray, leaving unto their SIS
| ters IN happy neutral lands all the costly velvet,
mixed with satin. all the mneyer and lace. all the
| stripes and fale, the neayy popns, the glace silks
| and reversible retfousse styles the worked cash.
meres the artistic gimp, the waving fringe ana
softly coiling Asatc materials. Tnes, the things
| which are still worn In every variation Of plalt
nounce aud bouillon. These the adorments still
made up with as much recherche as when there was
| no talk OF battle fields and famlshng armies ana
burned villages In this Crisis there is even heard
complaint that ''people can't Great. new
STYLES without Paris draughtsnen,, and more.
so by This Is particularly aggravating
10 those female minds which entertained the hspe
or taxing that lead In society winch the queens or
style under The empire have deserted and aban.
doned. But why despair, disappointed beautiess
though her courty trains Of OeauS de Jour ana bellies
4 de nau have dispersed. The sceptre Is available to
| full a. many candidates as was the throne OF Spain
! snort time ago. Few among the ambitious are
capaclated for welding It, There lies the difculty;
for IL Is error 10 believe that royal dress consti-
| tures regal wearer. rne weight OF purse COM
bncd with lightness OF intellect, not the iunda-
mental elements required; ani because the mecca
sary attributes OF such ruler are lnIinite and COM
prchend atialnments OF very superior order 1t
| has III the course OF years become the work OF O
| whole capitai, not or one individual TO 'set' and
"lay down. the law Of fashion. rnis capital Isdst
also boast OF possessing academies factories schools
aud artists founded and instructed for the special
purpose of perfecing every Industry connected with
IL need not necessarily be Paris because Paris It
always has been; but there Il no concealInI Tho
whose business N the fashion iine has been
, transferred 10 London, Brussels and VIENNA com
famed makers are argued with ana o, that tne,
talent must be sun the same Wherever they co. they
snrug theif shoulders and reply I0itt nidllte ci
which. III plain English. means There Is not a
/ thing Wo can use here; we have not The habits
: nor taste, nor tact, II severed rom that Paris at
, mospherc which Is to us the same thing US water
!. toa gold hs1." ff
The city Of Brussels did not for one moment enter
tam the notion That she could temporarily sup
plant Paris Sne drew TO use poetic simliej her
y,ell , d Brussels Brussels point around her and modestly
looked about She would have liked 10 do
the Homage Of some novelty 10 one or her
| visitors, The Princess de Metternich, but tho
reputed ambassadress aid her the honor of q.
novelty. She appeared at recent solree In splen-
did black lace shawl, retroussed a tunic, over a
plum colored velvet tram. To make the best OF
what conc be had was the wise resolve OF Brussels
after tins, and the consequence Is that the IDEAS
Paris bequeathed have been extended and improved
Tue browns nave been beauthed by mixture OF
amber satin, slight, though very relieving This
effective. f''''s ming " iu'"e' - very
Violet satins are made of the three shades which
Distinguish Parma buncnes OF the retiring lower~a
rosy mauve Iailie, darker gradatlon or the same
Tor nonillon ala deeper stl icr nounce. The frin
as trimmings lOr velvet skirts.
Cluny In tne ecru shades is used as insertion and
fr1l on blue satin This very elegant on Jackets
made TO match the skirts
Berlin wool fringe is placed on woollen materials
for demi-toiIette preferably to SILK or gimp whlcn
are preferred or costly materials such gros grain
or pouit.
the very untidy fringe worn on tartan costumes
Is gong OUT oil favor. TDe dragging skye-terrler
encct cannot be denied. White tarians are orna-
nented Win black velvet aud chenille.
| Gimp or elaborate and aftstic descriptions coyera
the most conspicuous part OF tnose splendid Ant
werp black Silks known as armure dAnvers.
tance is not unlike carved Gothic WORK. so perlecty
does the design STAND out especially velvet, blue
, or garnet.
Branding has again returned TO perplex mantna
makers. Some Cashmere toilets are so admirably
totally covered over.
Brussels has excelled In lingerie. The pretty
snowy hchus, the rnfis the putty muslin psses the
, are edged and waved and made to appear OF duer
here and there Then Brussels tarns out white
cashmere robes. trimmed with ruche carocd white
crosscuts, and bordered with Scotch work. As 10
tulle, 1t IS used for everything; the white Is mixed
with black and the black Is mixed with white
Among these must cite Q BLACK silk neck scarf,
with Valenciennes Insertion then an alternate
stripe or black. The front square ends finishing
J with deep white valenciennes 1t Is tied on !
light, loose bow and ts prefter than pure white
The making up OF lingerie has attained the per-
lection OF art In Brussels; and how necessary this
branch Is in the appearance OF q weldressed
lady, rich toilet without tasteful White dscoses
very imperfect taste. Under Louis xiv. the run.
tne cum, tne menu aud the hood were thought the
Few flowers are made ami few are worn.
Plumes are the great features. They are employed
IN curling groups OF three different shades OF one
color me nesn or ibis plume with sii, cry lavender
square or pointed. the trimming IS put on at she
back and made to come forward toward The sides.
Ihe fronts OF hats should not be trimmed with any
thing but folded scarf or CREPE rs tulle or fable
Fur slippers initiate little ferret fox, easel and
other heads The tip Of the foot Is the nade OF
black satin, two enamel eyes shine out on either
side and there Is pretty bow on the instep.
These slippers have, no heels but are lined
with quilted satin. l have some pretty
black sable ones twinkling at a lighted coal
fire or the fender and some pretty Canada and blacK
marten with yellowish eyes peeping out like
mice from under bounced petticoat. Some TASTE
fu shaw dresses are worn with iaieta Garibaldls
and jackets, having wide pagoda sleeves lined with
silk To match the chemise russo and petticoat.
Pearl gray chinchila NUTS and velvet NUTS with
bands o. other fur are made Bands OF feathers
are being abandoned on velvet and satin. Black is
the fayorte STYLE seal skin the lavorte Jacket and
short costumes the favOri,e for Iadtes