The Portland daily press., 1870-10-03
DAILY PRESS.
ND.
Monday Morning, October 8, 1870 4
PORI1LAND.
The Fashions.

AUNUMN STYLES AND MATERIALS I'M
DRESSES, BoNNErs, ETC.
Because the beautiful Imperial goddess tn
whom we all yielded willing allegiance, was
like crushed dove, wounded eagle de.
spoiled of power, shall American women
wear old clothes? "Never," cries Miss ia
ponica, in mental retrospect of herself, ar
rayed in a turned dress and last years hat.
"Never chorused the rest of the coterie who
were holding a recent indignation meeting in
Madame Ding Dong's magnificent ateliar,
and so it comes to pass that the regular''open-
ings" were duly advertised, new fashions
cleaned in Kaleidoscope radiance from plate
glass windows. Broadway was brilliant
panorama, for
Midas, we read, with wondrous art of old,
Whate'er he touched at once transformed to gold.
Thls, modern m0distes can reverse vii h ease.
Touch them with gold they'll turn to what you
please.
And so we dictate fashions. New York is
great, but who shall be its prophet? Ameri-
can women abroad were always preeminent
tor their elegance, ace and perfect taste in
dress. Their toilettes were distinguished for
independence as well as perfection, and now
the time has approached to test their origin.
ality.
1t is proved that elegance and economy can
be upited. The black silk overskirt and pol
Onaise continue to be very popuIa.e ID e
be worn with variety OF skirts. 0f an sle-
CANT costume is combined of the fine French
cashmere in black polonaise over rich black
silk skirt. These can be trimmed with bands
of the same, edged with feather trimming or
narrow suipure. Black velvet in ribbon, OF
cut on the bias, will be a favorite trimming
edged With reveled trimming OF the dress ma
terial.
Feather trimming united to lace is very
graceful but too frail for anything but full Dress
1t will, however, be much used on bonnets.
Flounces and ruffies will continue in favor,
although those to whom redundancy of
thinning is unbecoming can find consolation
Black costumes are undoubtedly the most dis
tingue. A walking suit of exquisitely fine
cashmere, imported, is made in a polOnaise,
half fitting, closely fastened at the throat,
with coat sleeves trimmed or en- ubrodered in
jet by hand, edged with rich fringe. The
skirt is of heavy corded silk, superbly trim
med With full pufings end ruches of silk and
velvet.
As women talk very knowingly of business,
and rebel against too much waterproof as be-
ing ungainly and unEecOming wthal, business
even Willie following their business prOpensi-
ties. To this end, we fEd handsome dark
cloth..of very blue and dark green; the skirt
just clears the ground, faced up with black
silk finished off with a fine black silk galloon /;
a long, halffitting polonaise. with jaunly side
pockets and coat sleeves trimmed in accord
ance. A round, coachman's cape with hood
is attached, not fastened, to this extremely be-
coming suit, particularly adapted Tor cur ca
PRECIOUS climate. Twlled goods are taking
the place OF reps. such as cashneres and me-
rinOs, in consequence of the sO.ter goods fall
ing into more graceful and artistic folds which
the p0lonaise is looped into. The suits of sin
gle cOlOrs, such as blues, grays, green's, etc,
can be worn in these different shades, it being
important to remember that the hat or bonnet
and gloves must match the darkest shade.
A very elegant walking costume of Irish
poplin was trimmed with bias bands of silk,
edged with narrow fringe. The skirt was
silk of the rose shade, trimmed with bands to
correspond in poplin, extending to the waist
The polonaise, rather closely fitting, with
deep pagoda sleeves reaching quite 10 the
edge OF the upper garment, with silk revers
| edged with poplin, closely fitting at the throat
| A superb carriage dress of mulberry silk il
Trimmed with sable fur, black lace and fa
gimp. A court train and basque are attach
ed to the short skirt. Two founces adorn the
front and side breadths, placed on in large
double box plails. The heading cf The up
per founce is formed of band OF sable, lace
| and gimp. The train is faced and turned
back in revers, with white satin, which is also
intermingled with the trimming of the cor
sage, sleeves, &c.
In bOnDets this change is more peIceptible
| They are decidedly larger and the styles more
| coquettsh the color cotainirg more OF variety
| For example, charming gypsy bonnet o
black velvet in little cloud of tulle from
| which peered forth cluster OF dewy tea roses
! with black ostrich tips for foliage. The new
| style of bonnet is raised so high against the
coronal Of back hair, that were it not for the
exposure of the brow, it might easily pass fol
round hat; strings are also attached, which
marks the difference, tied loosely beneath the
chin. Very elegant bOnnets are made of two
and three shades; tor example, a mulberr,
velvet may be piped with lighter shade il
silk, with feather tips still lighter. Or velve
bonnets are trimmed with folds of silk of tn
same color, ostrich tips and flowers gracefully
clustering together. An exceed ngIy attrai
tive bonnet is composed of four shades {
green velvet and silk, with the usual melang
of fringe. flowers and feather tips.
Round hats are exquisitely pretty in th
gypsy shape. A piquant hat was most charm
inSly arranged of Nile green velvet, wit
ruches of silk. edged with marabout trimmin
and ostrich tips; auother of leecy clouds q
poln. lace, in which nestled pale blush rose
Before this shrine bowed many adoring pill
grims. For trimming both bonnets and hat
lace is preeminent. Long ostrich feathers arr
| revived: these minele in harmonious cOntras
With delicate trailing sprays of flowers. A yer,
thin guaze called "Frou Frou" forms grace
full trimming for hat, resembling Grape il
texture; the scarf around the hat can also b.
used as vail.
White is no longer the fashionable color 70
gloves in evening wear. All delicate tints ar
preferred, particularly pale straw color an
primrose, with from two to six buttons I'm
dressed kid gloves are preferred Tor trayellin
and neglige. These are long-wrsted, but witt
one button. Nerves have not yet been shock
ed by the reported increase in price. TIL
preference, this season, exists in tartans TO
fancy, irregular, broken plaids. A new styl
in waterproof is also exhibited, in plain, sOl'
color; selvaSe, bordered with black stripe
and fringe interviewer in the material. Tbes
can be made the same as the shawl suits; arr
much nicer in quality, and can also be al
ranged quite as gracefully, with the advan
tage OF being waterproof Navy blue in sof
serge, cashmere, and in waterproof, is the pre-
dominert shade, more largely imported thai
any other; next ranks very deep, darl
green, and rich, coffee brown.
l
ing for elaborate and full dress occasions
TIE very latest shape is so extremely marrow
at the back it is scarcely perceptible, widenin
to points in front; under the collar is wCrn
neck ribbon of clape or gros grain, forming
tie in front, or half handkerchief silk, re
vived from an old forgotten style. Many {
the collars are trimmed with Valencienne
inserting and edging, or embroidered, but a
the heart-shaped cOrsase is still in favor, lac
frills will continue to lie worn. Very daint
crepe de Chene cravats are edged with whit
Chantily; rich black Chantiy barbes are al
ranged cloud-like over neck-t.es Of brigh
warm colors.
Laced boots are the only marked change
foot garnitrre. Heels have decreased, als'
in hight.
| Benton's Table Talk.
SOME RACY SPECIMENS.
Tyler was triflng man, and to his chara(
teristic he owed his preservation at the burs
ing of the big gun ON board the Princeton
Word had been given that song was to b
sung in the cabin, and he rushed down to hes
it. I had been going around all day lookin
rr.AD l.