The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1870-06-27
Bssdad, The City Of caliph., Az II II.

"iivor ucsctIpes MS experiences IN the ancient
towns eaM eN
Basdad, The City Of Catipis, AZ II IL.
IA w BAaDAD. May "a. 1870.
There are few EngIisl-speaxng men, and perhaps
fewer Mussumans, who can make first visit to the
ancient city from which am now writing, without
slight quickening OF the mental pulse. Strolling
through the same bazaars which once echoed to the
feet Of the good Callph Haroun al Raschid. Of his
vizier Gianir and Of his trusy eunuch Mesroor, or
pausing before cofce shop haunted Of yorc by the
Silent Barber or the Hunchback; or passing by
mysterious mansion, with closed windows and barred
doors-the house, doubtless, OF zobeide and safe
and Anime; IN short. go where you will in Bagdad,
so long as steer clear Of the resident Europeans
you can dream over again the delicious dreams OF
early boyhood-dream them over again, too, not In
the minds eye simply, but with the ngures and
scenes Of your fantasies in actual literal procession
before you. 1t Is strange that the genns Of name
less story-teller should have thrown 50 potent a
charm around the place; IL is stranger sti that the
Charm should be felt by Arab and Frank, by Ciaour
ana Moslem alike. Indeed, much as we Anglo.
Saxons sdmire and love the thousand aud one
Nights. the Afass feel the spell yet more wildly.
But the Bagdad Oh the present. what Is it likes
we looking at 1T for trying Is look at 1t rather, for
1t Is impossible to wholly throw OF tie charm
rather pretty Oriental city, not so large rs Aeppo,
but larger than Damascus, inferior in the grandeur
OF Its public buildings to all the important Mosem
Cities Its mosques, 20 the traveller who has seen
Delhi, Agra, Cairo or Srambou are, with the excep-
ton OF the Mosque OF Moosa il Kadem, unworthy OF
notice It's SERIAL, or government house. is eclipsed
by the palaces OF manga e-iailed Pacha. lis hum
NUNS. or baths are execrable. But the general
standard Of building is pretty good. The houses,
though built with old bricks are large ana subsia an
tal, and their interiors are profusely decorated.
The wall OF the city, too Is fine structure; II is OF
brick, with towers at the principal angles ana bias.
lions at regular intervals. A deep ditch now dry,
out which might IN case OF need b. flooded, runs
around the outside OF the wall and forms an ad H.
tional defence.
Approaching Bagdad by water, as most travellers
do, the first view Of the city is very striking ON the
east side Of the river stands the city proper built on
high cf OF EARTH some thirty or forty feet above
the usual level OF the river, though just after the
rains the water has sometimes risen to within few
feet OF tue top, and on one OCCASION indeed flooded
the city and drowned 200 people. line OF large
brick houses, iat-roofed, anu with plan unadorned
walls, pierced by small square holes for win lows
stretches along tn. bank for about mile
ana behind this rises confused mass or
buildings, huddled together so closely tina;
streees, but deems them rather single pile Of irregu-
aarly disposed brckwork. Here and there the Gu
polas and minarets OF mosque tower above the
vulgar herd OF houses--tle minarets being rather
picturesque, as they are covered with designs In
green aud white glazed tile after the Persian fashion,
The opposite bank OF the river Is also the site OF
toetaby large city, which, according to tradition
used formerly to be much larger. curious bridge,
formed OF shallow boats, fastened together by chains
connects the two cities In favorable weather. but
when the river Is high and the current strong The
boats dissolve partnership, aud communication he.
comes possible only in 0oo'1s or small round boats
OF basket work, caked with pitch, In shape aud
materials ac sifaie copies OF those Witch Herodotus
saw here aud described after he returned to Greece
2,0oo years ago. On both banks Of the river the
houses fade or into date plantations and orange
groves-the former the beautiful the latter the
most fragrant OF trees. The orange trees, by the
way are an innovation here: they do not date back
TO the time Of Haroun al Raschid, but were intro
uuced by an Englisllman less than century ago
They have tlriven wonderfully and already the
Bagdad orange has reputation extending all over
inuia. large consehineHs are ni;l'ie eNety season.
to Bombay, from whence they distributed all
over The country.
FROM THE RIVER
Landing at the GOOmr0Uk Custom House, YOU
md yourself at once IN the heart OF the city. Keep
ing your dfagoman carefully sight you naturally
snccumb to the temptation or sirolling through the
bahaars without delay, leaving such vulgar cares as
your am or and your lodging for tie night take
Thought ior themselves nniii The first edge OF your
gates Of Inc Goomrook and, turning corner, are
III Que Of the principal bazaais Stretching along as
lar as the eye can reach Is long straight vauiled
corridor, some twenty feet wide and twenty-five in
height. The roof is decorated with curious designs
Of flowers and fruit in blue paint on a ground OF
Whirewash. On either side the All Is followed out
into Suuale recesses, seven or eight feet wide and
about three feet IRON the uneYen floor Of bare EARTH
These are the stores. In the day time, as y0u see
they are perfectly open, the wares being carefully
guarded by their owner and his shop boy the former
or whom is now sitting calmly on his Persian carpet
smoking narghcelah or hubble bubble, while the
latter keeps sharp lookout for possible customers.
t. whom he occasionally shouts an invitation TO
make purchases in manner reminding one OF onr
own Chat ham street. As is the cool OF the morn
ing the bazaar Is now extremely crowded. and only
WIN difficulty do you force your way through the
throng IN fact, II you are WISE yOu Will at once re-
nouncc the attempt and hire a donkey. And what
strange ana mOtley-colored crowd IL il Town
Arabs, IN long flowing gowns aud white turbans and
naked feet. encased ia red slippers, with pointed
turned up toes; wild Arabs straight from the desert
their abbas or cloak OF brown calnlet or woOllen
drawn loosely round them, and falling to their feet
while their mead is covered with huge handker-
Chief OF yellow and red and blue, The kefeer oil the
country. bound round the skull with came's hair
rope Pers.ans, Almenians, .Koords. Hindoos. Ar
gifans, each In their national costume; soldiers il.
hign boots and zOuave pantaloons and jackets OF
black serge, with facings ard trimmings OF red: and
women, nufiled from head 10 foot In blue cotton.
garments, with mask OF stifi black Grape conceaing
the face, and with hgh-heeied boots or yellow lea
tbe:. And curiously contrasting with the throng by
counter Turk In European clothes, with that most
hdeous and disreputabe OF headdresses, the red
Osmanli fez, with black tasse stuck careiessy on
thc back Of his Uranium. while cigarette il held
between MS lips. smile Of stupid good nature Is
ever on his face, and he is evidently happy and
prosperous man. But looking at him, 1t is hard
indeed to believe thar he belongs TO the masterrace
OF the country.
SHE by side with yonder fierce determined-look
lug koord or even with the handsome-featured
Aran snopk ~ to your right. he seems the most
lncapaDie OF mortals But perhaps II Is more neces
sary that governing race should be tolerant than
strong ninded that 1t should he eventempc Ell than
intellectual. And whatever other faults they NAV
have, the Turks are, In religious matters, The only
reasonable Moslens. while In their Official policy
towards the people whom they govern they have az
any rate this grand virtue-they only make fuss
when they have material point to gain: that Is
to say Turkish Pacha might perhaps put . man to
death Ii he refused 10 pay taxes; but he would
.mcddie with him for mere breach OF sentimental
morality SUCH as drinking lager beer on a Sunday
or throwing away his money IN a gambling saloon.
3AzAARs.
Every trade In Bagdad has It's own bazaar; some
times. iHdecd, Whole corridor devoted some