The New York herald., 1870-04-24
BAGDAp, Feb. %, 1870,
FHUUAH' TCU %, IotU.
THE TIGRis AND EUPuRATEs IN 1870.

bAGDAD feD. % 1870.
THE TIcRis AND EUPuRATEs IN 1870.
We have at length reached the month or the
Oldest OF historical rivers, and the steamship
which has brought from Bushre pauses for "a few
minutes TO give the Arab pilot IA picturesquely
arrayed incapable) an opportunity to catch his
breath and collect his senses before he takes up
the Shatel.Arab. Snch is the name by which the
river formed by the united streams OF the Tigrs and
Euphrates is now known, though IL Ii probable that
In ancient times the ngris looked upon as
ceasing at the point where 1t joined the Euphrates,
while the latter was considered to nOw on until It
reached the sea. However this may be, the muddy
waters on which we are now floating are sufficiently
connected with the familiar names to suggest many
memories OF ancient fables ana story-of Nimrod
and Belshazzar, Khalir Haroun al Rascbd and Ehe
Lady Zobeide OF the Garden OF Eden and the tower
Babel. And but for such recoectons there would be
little. indeed, TO interest one in a first view
OF the Shate-Arap for the coast line which 1t
divides is drearily nat and monotonoGs On the
east the Persian territory presents a dead level OF
paer brown sand, scarcely rising above the waves,
and unrelieved by Tree or shrub, even tuft OF
grass and on the The Turkish shore is equally
low, and, though IL is frmged with few small date
trees the land soon fades away towards the interior
into a marsh OF reeds ana willows Even the waves
for miles away from this unpromsing coast are of
that sickly green which betokens shallow depth,
while the waters OF the river tinge the with
dirty brown Mesopotamlan earth, which has here
and there formed an ugly looking sand bank.
But the whistle of the engine gives shril scream
and we run slowly up the channel OF the river. After
an hours tedious voyage, during when the plot
and the officer OF the watch constantly shouting
out orders TO the man ut the wheel and the engi-
neer; while another officer, with gang OF sailors,
stands ready on the forecastie TO drop the anchor
at moments notice, arrive in due course at
Fac. Fac, as town, Is OF no importance whatever.
but II is the ponJ where the submarine cable from
India Joins the land line through Turkish Arabia
and s also the first OF the various custom houses
which spread along the Tgris, and which levy toll
upon all buggalows and vessels ascending the river
The only houses visible are little shanty OF white
washed chunam, planted In front OF which o huge
nagstaG with an enormous Turkish ensign and q
large building of two stories also painted white and
with double verandas running right round It. The
former is the Custom House and the latter ,ne tee-
graph onice. Close scrutiny wnl also bring TO
score Of small huts, inhabited by the servants OF
the officials and there are SAID to be three or four
other houses hidden away somewhere behind
date plantation where the married telegraph clerks
reside. Three among the latter gentlemen are Eng
hshmen; there are also a Greek and two three
Turks who can speak French. Lying in the stream is
an old brig, whole buiwarks have been perceI w:sh
half dozen holes each sIde 10 mab&ssier
look something like war vessel Only four Asles
on one side and three on the other however Vare
manned with cannon, This craft, as Is shown by
the flag flying at her masthead, Is Turkish manof-
war and. and is specially commissioned to guard
the mouth OF the river. AS her duties, IN fact,
consist only III bullying the wretched captains OF
native bungalows into paying three four times the
proper dues the surplusage going into the pockets
of the officials, pro rata according to their rank
fS Thoroughly
men is sensible that IL does not look very well to be
represented by such sorry-lookmg scarecrow OF
now defunct Panama and Australian line TO do
duty at the head OF she Persian Gulf The name OF
the ship has been changed from the Mataura to the
Babel and she Is to be heavily armed. She Will
come ont via the suez Canal.
QUARANTINE.
After long delay, during which the captain
cursed the Turks and their government and their
religion and everything that is theirs with every In
vective In the AngloIndan vocabulary, the quaran-
tine oDcer at length came of In leaky boat, rOwed
by some half naked Arabs, by means OF two
one side and three paddles on the other The onlcer
himself was in highly ragged condition. but he
could at any rate boast respectable Osmanli red
cap with black tassel, while his feet were encased
in patent leather boots. Even here, at the very
threshold OF the domInions OF the Porte the leading
vices OF the peopeslovenliness, unthrift and indo
Ience-display themselves In the most obtru5jve
ner. No contrast could be more striking than that
between the maboat OF the En- sh steamer trim
and clean with polished brass rowlocks and fresh
painted sides, and the miserable Old tub which
serves as the gig OF the health officer oi the port.
No contrast mat is to say except the st more srik
ing one between our energetic. smartiy dressed and
clear-headed Anglo. saxon captain and the dsrepu-
table looking Individual who ascertained on behalf
of the Sublime Porte, that were free from few
and innocent OF cholera.
FROM FAC TO BussoRAH,
distance OF about forty miles, there IL only
stopping place and that is on the Persian shore, at
place called Mohammerah. Mohammerah Is the
headquarters OF very enlightened Sheik, who has
had sense enough to fall IN with the ideas OF pro-
gress that slowly making their way even IN the
East and who has consequently be come very rich.
little creek, deep enough for small bungalows and
runs through the district within his jurisdiction into
the ShatelArab. The land on each side OF II ls
very sr % nad ave ee seronsy se m or %
getting mon ey. No district In Persia Of the same
dimensions is equally prosperous or wealthy. The
greater part OF the soil s carefully cultivated with
oates or wheat or barley; horses and cattle are
largely exported, and number OF buggaiows are
now annually constructed. Only fortnight ago the
sneik received from Bombay river steamer which
he has had built 10 run mp the Euphrates The boat Is
of very fair capacity and s specially adapted for the
business in which she is to be employed. she
at-bottomed, draws only one foot OF water. and
has two stories OF cabins. II sne only had walk
ing beam and were just a little less dirty she would
not be greatly unlike some OF the smaller steamers
on the Western rivers. she cost about $4,000, but
her machinery s not new. She has taken three
months to come up from Kurrachee owing TO .
series OF mlsadventures, which Illustrate rather
fOrcply the difricules which an oriental has to en-
counter In competing with Europeans In such enter
prises. Snch Is The prejudice among European
engineers against working in the employ OF Arab.
or Persian, Hind0o, that none but men who
are unable TO obtain any other situation win accept
An Ofer even at hlRner wages tnan elsewhere given,
from men whom they term 'niggers.n The Shekh
Of Mohammerah, therefore. had to entrust his pur-
chase to the care OF q couple OF drunken loafers,
who got through three bottles OF brandy the first
nfght they were at sea. Or course they became
incapable OF working the machinery, and before
they were sober the boiler burst, owing to The water
in It having got too low. Luckily, no one was hurt
ana the Nadir kept above water until passing
steamer towed ner back to Kurrachee. Repairs cost
$4,000, and she made second attem9t to get up
the Gulf but ran out Of coal before she reached
Rnshlre and drifted about for couple Of weeks
when she hailed one OF the British Indian steamers
and arranged to be taken into port And IN DESPAIR
pI ever getting TO Mohammerah unalded the agent
or the shekh on board made further bargain to
be towed right up and into
TIE sHAT-EL-AHAB.
Now she is in the river the Snelkn hopes 10 pc
able to manage her little better, as, IN case tne
engineers continue 10 grossly neglect thelr woIk ne
may perhaps induce one OF the Turkish engineers TO