The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1856-1888, 1870-07-16
Navigation of the Pacific.
From the New Zealand Herald, June 14.l

~ TFrom the New Zeaianu beTdlu, JuueA IT.
Mr. Editor-Finding that the new postal route
via San Francisco to Europe Is an established tact,
and the route taken by the mail steamers goes
through the centre of the Pacific ocean, sklrtlng
the Navigator's Group, or, as the natives call 1t,
Samoa, | beg to offer a few remarks relative to
these parts that may be of use to the captains OF
the mail steamers. l may preface my remarks by
saving. that [ was born, and grew up to manhood
in the Pacific. and have filled official situations as
n. h. Ms Consul for Samoa for a while, and l
have navigated the same parts time after time.
The first | will mention is the Ionga Group,
consisting of the Tonga Islands, the Haapai's,
and Vavou. Tonga and the Haapai Islands are
low islands Vavou is high. The mail steamers
no doubt pass to the eastward OF this group, for
the seas to the S. W.. w. and n. w. are dotted
with lnnumerable shoals and reefs just awash,
with a strong set of the current to w. n. w.
Between Ono and Tonga it is especially danger
Gus. There are no dangers to the eastward of
them-a clear open sea and plenty OF room, ex-
cept to the S. E. of Vavou, where there is a large
sunken reef, with the island just visible. The
/ S. E., E. and n. e. being to the weather side OF
this group, they act as a barrier to the force OF the
sea, caused by the prevailing winds, thereby pro-
ducing a quiet sea to the Ieeward or westward,
which has allowed the coral builders to build up
reefs that are dangerous to navlgators. Also IN
1853 and 1856, earthquakes sent up shoals and
islands, and flame and smoke broke out afresh In
some of the hilly peaks that rise perpendicularly
from the deep sea to 1000 and some l1OO leet
high above the sea. Tonga has a large reef har-
Dor, entered by a deep passage at the west end of
the island outside the reef the entrance Is a
long way from the anchorage. Navou has a large
land-locked harbor, entered from the southwark
between two small high and round islands, with
soundings inside the harbor of 90 and 40 fathoms.
Should the mail boats ever be damaged in their
machinery or hull near to the Tonga Group, the
harbors are of easy access, and safe except IN a
hurricane. The trade is principally in the hands
of the SYDNEY merchants.
Between Tonga and Samoa there is only one
island, called by Captain Cook Savage Island it
has a bold and weather-bound shore with no
dangers.
The Samoan Group is high and mountainous.
| have seen Savaii peak a crater of a volcano,
without shrub or tree, a mass of laVa) 80 miles
off, on a clear morning before 9 A.. N. No reefs
away outside of this group: clear open sea and
channels. There is a fishing bank to the north
of Upolu, the land visible in a canoe, where the ma
tives used to go to fish in former times, for bara-
couta and bonito, but the soundings are over 100
fathoms. The Samoan Group being SO near, in
fact, in the line of route, would make a good coal
ing station, giving the steamer more room for
freight. The port of Apia, on the north side of
UpOlu, is the principal harbor, and contains a
large white population, and a good sized town. 1t
is OF easy access and egress good holding ground.
Pagopago (pango pango in the New Zealand dia-
lect) is a land-locked harbor, with deep water in
many places to the very edge of the land, so that
~ 'CSNN SA NJ . ~ NNNNOA BA
nacle rock just inside Of the entrance, which mar
rows the passage, and one must be well acquainted
with it's situation to venture in at night in a large
vessel. more so in a gale of wind. There is also
a shoal patch, with limestone boulders, on which
the sea breaks in a gale of wind. 1t is in the
fair way in running in from the S. E. In coaling
at Apia a hulk would be required, as a large yes
sci cannot get near to the wharf, for the harbor
gradually shoals towards the beach. A good
coallng station could be built on the inner shore
n q - e IL L
strong enough TO resist the waves of a hurricane,
and deep water to float any vessel, and can easily
run out in a hurricane, whereas III Pagopago you
cannot. [ have been in the latter port in Il hur-
ricane, with the furious puffs coming down on the
vessel from all directions, causing her while at
anchor to heel over till the water came in at the
scuppers, first one side and then the other side,
and was thus playing shuttle-cock with her. The /
only advantage Pangopago has is that a coaling
station can be built cheap, whereas at Apia, it
would cost money. 1t would be cheaper to lose
a few Goals than a steamer. l hope for no such
misfortune. but prosperity to the company. Sa-
luafata is another port in Upolu, a few miles to
the eastward Of Apia, with deep water close to
the land, as easy in going in and out, but smaller,
though still plenty of rom for twenty vessels to
lay to their anchors.
To the NE. of Samoa is Danger Island, and
it is a dangerous island. 1t is low, and sur
rounded for some miles out to sea with detached
reefs, with no sign but the surf breaking over
ucn. lUere Is mere a SLfOIS CURRENT setting TO
the westward. In a calm / have been taken
fifty miles to the westward in twenty-four hours.
A sailing vessel is doomed in calm weather if she
should get inside the outer ring of the detached
reefs. 1t was here the missionary ship John
Williams, the first, was lost-becalmed. If a
should be caught in a hurricane 100
miles to the NE. or Z. of it. and obliged to
heave-to for several days, it would be a wonder
f she escaped shipwreck. The same can be said
of Christmas Island. To the north of the Line a
strong current also sets to the westward. Many
vessel has been wrecked here on the passage
time Of the diggings. The prevailing winds are
the trades from S.S.E. At the full Of the moon,
Or at new moon, in the winter months, L have
a " westerly wind for three or four DAYS.
Except in a hurricane, the days and the weather
are as fine as could be desired, and the voyage as
pleasant as yachting.
The hurricane months are from December to the
middle of April. The terrific hurricanes are few
Ind far between. The hurricanes take their rise
IN the Southern Pacific, from the Sc, and make
/ circular course in he Pacific. Say that a
was passing over Rorotonga and It's
leighborhood, it would sweep round and over to
then veering gradually to the westward,
on through the New Hebrides, here turning
10 the south again. IF it should set in to the
of Rorotonga, it would sweep up through
Ianahiki, on to Danger Island, and perhaps the
line, and round by Banks Island. If one from
it will pass round and over the Fin Group,
m to Norfolk Island and Sydney coast wide
eport of Southern Cross, Novelty, and others, /:
III the anne wind.) If rising to eastward of
Tonga it may just clear the west of Samoa, touch
totomah, south Of the New Hebrides Group,
New Caledonia, and on to Sydney coast. Some
1 these hurricanes are of great breadth, some
re very narrow, but make a wide circle. Once
had one IN Tonga in a week l was off Suwar-
ows Reef In another one, and it veering round
. Danger Island. With plenty of sea room, r
no a good vessel, you will generally outride the .
TORN. Some hurricanes give plenty of warning,
1ners 90 not. Should the hurricanes break out
2 december or January, they are not SO severe
s those that come about March and ApriI. If
ny hurricanes pass over in December. the later e
mes IN March are nothing to speak of. Should
lere De no heavy gales in December or January,