New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-01-17

tors no frightened children, fainting women out
every one stood, or walked about at his ease and
could see and hear tho whole ceremony without
panic or peril The Fathers dropped in one by one,
or in little groups of three four, in full ponifeal
costume but there was no formal procession OF the
Council. The Papal Guards were arranged in lines
on different parts of the floor in rich uniforms and
with fixed bayones, occasionally performing certain
evolutions, but with apparent apathy of movement
and expression, and too mild-mannered in their
whole bearing to be reckoned dangerous. They
opened revereny for the entrance of the prelates.
who in their silken robes of white embroidered with
gold. and often sparkling with jewels, their heads
covered with high white mitres and attended
by their chaplans or theoogians, in decorous
black, presented certain dramatic, or rather
dreamhke spectacle. which it was not easy to
look upon as a reality. The spectator who has been
accustomed to such exhibitions only upon thel stage
must be excused if he yields somewhat to the force
of habit and is unable to divest the scene before
him of the glamour of histrionic illusions. Indeed,
the whole life of Rome, to a visitor, even with no
excess of the Purtanic leaven in his composition,
can hardly appear otherwise than q perpetual
masquerade and in the midst of so much glare. and
tlnsel, and spangled pasteboard, and painted car
pentry he almost loses the consciousness of his own
identity. On this occasion, however, was recalled
to my senses by q noble burst of music from the
military band stationed in the gallery opposite the
high altar, and presently the two waving fans of os-
trch feathers inlad with the glancing eyes of pea
cocks tails, borne on high like flaming banners,
announced the approach of the Chair Of State,
in which the Supreme Pontff is carried on the
shoulders of twelve men to take his part IN the gor-
geous pageant. was fortunate enough this time to
be within few steps of the procession and had not
before seen the Pope so near by. He looked aged
and decrepit His face PALE or perhaps, rather,
sallow. with smile of habtual benignity playing
upon his lips. The expression of his features lndl-
Gated less activity of intellect than is shown in his
usual portraits. There air of WEAKNESS about
him. as if the cares of State sat heavy on his brow
think he gives the impression of less ylgor, less
alacTity, than before the opening OF the Council.
His step is still firm and his voice is clear and sono-
rous He is said to enjoy excellent health, which
with his habits Of temperance and physical discip-
line can readily believe; but it is not so easy to
credit the assertion that he takes cheerful views OF
the action of the Council, and is confident of the
success of his ambitious schemes. After the
entrance of the Holy Father into the nave
Of the Basilica, he descended from the
Chair of State, near the High Altar and pro-
ceeded TO perform his part in the yesper services
The soft aud solemn music appeared to present few
attTaCtlO0SIO
out until only small number remained in the
"goined asles" of the Church. leaving the spacious
pavements to be occupied by the troops on guard.
whose duty was converted INTO sinecure, and here
and there group of black-rObed ecclesiastics who
fingered as spectators of the scene. 1t was now
nearly night il these short Roman days, and was
glad of a respite from the gttering show, without
TO ST. Peters to listen to the Song of the
shepherds" which was to be performed by a large
choir at o'clock in the morning. lhaye since been
told that il was the most attractive mu-
steal service Of the Christmas holidays,
and richly rewarded the Jealous souls who
left their drowsy pillows at midnight to partlci-
pate in the morning celebration of the Nativity. The
hour when the Sun should have risen the next
day was the signal for the universal clamor which
forms such an essential feature in the enjoyment OF
festive Rome. The heavy artillery on the walls OF
ST. Angelo sent its thunders 10 the most distant
quarters of the city. From nearly four hundred
churches and Companies resounded the merry jang
lings of lnnumerable bells. The dscordant bag
pipes of the Caabrian peasants, who come from
their mountain homes for the Christmas holidays,
added TO the general din. Sleep was no longer pos
sible and following the example of all the world,
made my way to st. Peters, under the weeping
canopy of heaven" TO witness the celebration
of High Mass. / left my hotel at an early
hour in the morning, and soon came
in sight of the armed archangel that
keeps watch and ward over the Castle of st.
Angelo. but on arriving at the bridge, the mounted
soldiers directed to pass by another route as none
but the carriages of Cardinals and other high pom
tifcal gniares permitted access to that sacred
avenue. Although so to st. Peters, we were
Obliged to turn of into the most crooked OF paths'
more than doubingi the distance we had already
come and not until after endless urnlngs and wind
ings like the zigzags of an Alpine road, could we
again behold the rounded dome Of the sublime Basil
lea. II was now nine o'clock and upon pressing into
the nave through the huge eathern curtain that pro-
tects the entrance found large congregation in the
vicinity of the altar although the sides of the church.
with its numerous chapels, were free from crowd.
long parallelogram in the center of the nave was
hedged off by files of soldiers, having spacious area
for the passage Of the procession, although women
with black walls and men with white cravats were
admitted to privileged places in the vicinity OF the
altar As was armed with neither of these tails
mans-my faith in dress having been totally wrecked
by my experience at the ever-memorabe opening OF
the Council-I was forced to take position IN the
rear with the prospect again OF returning without
the sight of Pope or Pontiff to reward my early
drive in the rain. This was not to be endured for
a second time, and shouldeTing my way through
a dense mass ten twelve deep, OF Roman
citizens, Italian beggars curious English
and American sight-seeTs, stray eccleslasucs,
in their everyday garb, and honorable men and holy
women not few, succeeded IN reaching the hne OF
guards who at first were ineXora6e TO my peutions
10 pass as they saw nothing but my black neck-tie
and heavy oyercoat but upon intimating my desire
TO approach the statue of the eveTbessed San Petro
OH the opposite side they made no further opposition
to my wishes and as readily gave me access to the