New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-07-29

row and dark, often covered over with massive
arches, and running down into the depths of tho
valley which hardly. ray of light can penetrate:
1t was rather late in the evening before reached
wretched omnibus awaited us at the station, in
which we drove to the still more wretched inn
Nothing could be colder than our reception: We
passed through dark courtyard, and, on landing at
the door of the house. were left to grope way
we could. No smiling head-waiter came to greet our
arrival; there stalwsrt porter to look after
our baggage; and it was some time before We caught
sight of the drowsy landlord, who at last
youchsafed to make his appearance to an.
bitter cold night, and we were chilled
to the bones, and the stone floors and stair
cases seemed to freeze as we touched them but ON
inQuring for a room with fire, l was told that
there such thing in the house, and was shown
into an immense barn of chamber, every pane OF
glass in which was rafting in the wind MID IN,
situation on my part that such lodging might
prove fatal brought out the pleasing fact that nad
only TO pass through two or three rooms to ind the
dining hall huge apartment In which hIe con ha
be made. ] at once accepted the alternative, the
landlord-who proved to be host, waiter and cham
bermaid in one-fetched in enormous fagots of wood
with his own hands, applied kindhng OF hghted pa
per- and after incredible performance on PAIR OF
superannuated bell lows, my patience was at length
rewarded by cheerful blaze on the eapaclOus
hearth. There was fire enough to roast an OK,
or say perhaps a large sheep; the red glow pro-
duced dreamy sense of comfort, from when was
supper in his hands. This parsonage turned out to
be something of character after all. He might
have been more than sixty years Of age few b 1P
velvet cap which covered his head, giving him the
appearance of reformed monk. His complexion
might be called almost rosy tor an Italian SHOWING
his guests did not receive the benefit de was as
posed to be socable answered our laundering ques;
ton with superfuons atfablllty and evidently trsd
! to make up in politeness what was wanting In the
lil of fare. The supper was execrable 10 DE per
! fectly candid, must own that it was the worst |
ever tasted since left cOllegecommOns 1t consisted
! of thin soup, resembling warm water slightly
dashed with salt, piece of sodden leathery meat,
purporting to be beef from which long contact WIN
the oven had dried out all SAVIOR, and an aboriginal
fowl which defed every attempt at close acqualnt-
ance with a salad of bitter herbs, which even the
fresh olive oil of the country could not make Palata
| bic. A. dessert of stale confectionery, which had
doubtless done service on similar occasions from
| time immemorial and a few wlthered grapes, com
peted the repast. merciful Providence tempered
! the wind TO the shOrn wayfarer IN the worst nm
worst ROOM" and carried me safely through the
night The morning was brilliant uhder thG winter
sun of the South. and left Foligno for Rome III
! GOOD spirits and with a good omen. ms was a
little Incident too trivial to be noticed, but its odd
character has impressed it my memory On arriving
at my hOsteTy for the night III fogno and naturally
taking out my watch, found that portion OF the
chain with the key and tIimHllngs," was gone Ihey
were of no great value TO be sure but certain Pick
wickian interest had in them made me lament their
loss. Thinking that they might have got broken OIL
in the confusion of landing at once caused search
to be made in the old omnibus which drove us TO the
! inn and the rooms and passages through which |
! had CROPPED on the way to my apartment, but OF
! course they could not be found. i then called 10
mind that on looking at my watch in the train just
| before reading Fogno had some trouble In draw
| ing ii ont under a closely buttoned oyercoat and
| concluded that the chain had parted there and
dropped on the floor of the carriage. Of course,
gave it up for lost, and resigned myself to the in
eyitable But in the morning while waiting on the
platform for the Florence train another train of
different line from TERM to Ancona, came IN from
the opposite direction and stopped for few minutes
One of the carriages had certain familiar look, ana
the thought at struck me that it might possibly
be the one in which had come the night before from
/ ITO hnpa to ind oh
after Journey of so many hours to TERM and back
but resolved to try the experiment., and asked the
SD6 bebod 70 H first thing which met my eye was
the lost jewel gttering in the morning sun, and re-
posing as quietly under the seat as if it had not
travelled so far in a land of beggars and bTgands.
The greatest miracle i'll the whole affair was that the
! conductor refused piece OF SILVER which offered
him in return for my good iuck though before me
| witnessed the same, held out his hand with vehe-
ment appeal for the money. accepted the recovery
of what had lost as gracious omen, and under Its
cheerful influence pursued my way to Rome rejoicing.
The remainder of the journey presented no features
Of remarkable interest GPGn approaching the city
officers in the Papa uniform made their appearance,
and meanderi1g through the cars, demanded of the
Their IFg MnS nnt fonT ' tbn f
had occasion to claim the protect on of the Ameri-
can eagle which is displayed in hdeous caricatuTe
on the costly official document IN question. My
passport had never been taken from my pOcket-b0Ok,
except in one instance to prove my identity at
Swiss pOstOce, and IN that case, as afterward dis
| covered. visiting card would have done just as
well. Neither in Austria, nor the Kingdom of Italy,
is the ordinance of passports still in force much less
in France or Germany; you may go and come as you
please without asking leave of impairment
| oficiais and need not the Endorsement of
the Secretary of State to show that you
a arS fugitive ia from Justice 1t is only the fragment
| of the Papa States that now boasts of geograph-
ical and political existence, which You can neither
enter nor depart from without the license Of the
police inscribed your passport. No previous wise
| of Roman authority, however, is now necessary
before your passport is valid has until recently
been the case and which has often proved a source
of embarrassment to foreign travellers. was unable
to ascertain the point with certainty until applied
to our Consul-General in Florence, who was the first
! to inform that an American passport Is good
without a Roman WISE although You cannot leave
the city before you have paid five lire about one
dollar for that ceremony. The police have even an
| office at the railway station where you can
pay your money, and obtain the requisite sig
natures if YOU have neglected 10 do so before, al
though it is usual have the business adjusted by
one of the servants of your hotel few days before
your departure The whole matter is one OF dollars
| and cents Every device has been invented TO re-
crut the bankrupt Papa treasury. lnfallibility by
| no means guarantees solVency. The care OF souls
may be attended to throughout the universe even II
! the domestic eXchequer Is deficient In cash Inc
| host of strangers that constantly passes through
Rome is treated like milcl-cow, whose plethora
udder can never be pressed to exhaustion. c0nye-
nien pretext is found in the passport system, which
an agency of the police is nudity, but as an IN
ton Twill do our officers the Justice to say that we
were treated with perfect civity. They
mild-manneTed men as ever "scuttled ship, or cut
throat" We passed through little Office, in an IT.
regular line, handing over our passports as we went
ont. The names were entered on register, the
documents were retained by the officers, who went
on with the train and at the last station, before
reaching Rome the said papers restored with
! the proper Endorsement. We now free of the
Eternal City, as long AS we made it our temporary
residence, but wo be to the unlucky wight who
should attempt TO escape from its sacred precincts
before smoothing the palm of the Pope with his
! tIibution 10 the treasury
The custOm-house regulations for the baggage of
travellers arriving at Rome are sufficiently liberal
han g IL I.oI:-