Watertown republican. [volume] (Watertown, Wis.) 1860-1906, 1870-06-15

the belt, extending far back on the sides,
while the narrow side gore is very full al
the belt. The long back widths are then
sewed to the sides, where the only drapery
is made by gathering up the side seam
from three fingers below to very small
space just beneath the belt. This makes
the apron fit smoothly and fiat over the
stomach, and gives the increased size nee.
essay on the hips. If it produces a foId
or two, or wrinkles across the lower par
of the apron, these are not Objectionable
Short paletots like Medici or Caprice a.
most invariably accompany French suits
of summer materials. A blouse corsage is
made to wear in the house if the goods are
thin; plain waist with darts if it is thick
In very warm weather these will be worn or
the streets without wrap, and when worn
with bouffant overskirt have the effect o.
a casaque.
A novelty among the latest importations
is bat1ste, which resembles linen cambria,
of a pale green shade. The tint is as deli.
cate as the fashionable ecru buff, and is as
becoming to blondes as ecru is to brunettes.
Of dozen such suits imported, ten were
sold on the day of the opening. On a
model dress there were two scant gather
founces edged with white Bruges lace, and
above each flounce flat pleating three
inches vide in very narrow pleats, held
down ny Llack velvet ribbon basted near
the top. The draped upper skirt and the
paletot with flowing sleeves, were merely
trimmed with the fiat pleatings and lace.
A black velvet sash completed the costume.
Price $l25. The material is said to wash
well. Another suit of this summer-llke
fabric as a casaque, and three gathered
hounces embroidered with white and edged
with Valenciennes lace.
Suits of brown or buff linen, made with
two skirts and paletot, are trimmed with
flat pleatings of linen. Each pleat, an
inch wide, is cut in leaf pattern at the
lower edge, then needle-worke ed in tiniest
notches, and pieced over narrow pleatings
of white muslin that are basted beneath,
and show couple of inches below the
colored pleats. These white pleatings be-
meath colored ruffies are quite feature of
French dresses. Made of Swiss muslin
they are placed beneath black and gray
silk founces; of tarlatan, beneath gfona-
dine and Chambery gauzes, both oolored
and black; and ofmuslin, beneath cambria
and linen.
Thin gray batiste suits are shown for
summer travelling dresses. These are
trimmed with fat pleatings of the same,
and sold for $40. Another novelty for
travelling suits is a thick cotton material,
corded like pique, but heavier than poplin.
1t is imported in yellow, brown, and man.
been cOlors. The trimming is straight fiat
pleating, merely hemmed at the edges, and
stitched on by machine. On one of these
the long overskirt has an apron front, and
two long widths behind, laid in fiat kilt
pleats that are pressed down smoothly the
entire length, The front of the skirt Is
buttoned with large yellow ivory buttons.
Some of the most stylish suits are all of
one shade, with pleated trimmings of the
material, without bindings or headings of
other color. These monotone dresses,
made of inexpensive woolen stuffs, are ex-
ceedingly refined and tasteful, and are
greatly worn by young ladies from seven
teen to twenty years old.
The pleated tiounce on lower skirts
varies from eight to sixteen inches in
depth. Those on paletots and upper
skirts are only three inches wide or less.
In pleating heavy goods for summer
dresses modistes do not make real pleat,
but merely run deep seam on the wrong
side, as in melon pleating. This has the
effect of deep pleat, and is not so heavy.
Five or six folds overlapping each other
make most stylish trimming for lower
skirts of summer woolen fabrics. On pale
light poplins and mohairs brown alpaca
braid or tiniest silk fringe is placed be-
meath each fold, and shows at the lower
edge. A brown ruche heads the cluster OF
folds. Poussiere or dust-colored mohair,
with leaf-brown trimmings, is suit very
popularity worn. There are summer serges
at fifty cents a yard that make very pretty
and inexpensive suits of this kind. 1t is
difficult to say which are most worn, brown
or gray costumes The hat matches the
darker shades of trimming, or sometimes
contains both shades. The lighter shade
is desirable for summer gloves.
The newest picues are much trimmed
with embroidery, pleated muslin ruffies,
and with fringe. The suits are made in
the style described already for other mate
rials.