Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1870-03-30
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
New York and Paris Styles for April.
sPH"S SPenfngs-0ld and New Hats.
nennets - Linens and Lauu.
From our Fashisn Correspondent.l

| ~"nets - Linens and Lam.
| From our Fashion Corresponlen,l
NEw YORK, March, 1s70.-The queer freas
which reserved the January snow-storms untT
March, has not retarded the efforts of merchants
and manufacturers to back up the almanac and
| produce an appearance of expectancy at least
OF that "etherial" mildness which is popularity
supposed to be characteristic OF gentle spring.
| The heavy goods are taken from the shelves
or are offered at reduced prices in all the lsrgs
stores, and their places are occupied hy An H.
tero genous assortment of light fabrics called
new, and announced as received by the ..Iasi
steamer, but which have an odor of the cellar
rather than of the sea, and IN their obvious color
and mixed quality show distinct evidences of
Their native origin Of novelties, there are very
Few. The materials, with new, high sounding
names, are easily recognized as old friends, I'm
disguise, which simply robs them OF their
ancient reputation and character, but does not
add creditably to either.
1t Is really most serious drawback against
trade, that absolutely no reliance can be placed
on the Representations made in regard 70 articles
or goods purchased. II good, honest fabric is
prouuced, there are at once fifty worthless imi-
tatons, and these limitations, at a slightly lower
rate, are sold to nine persons out OF ten a. the
genuine manufacture. Ii anything takes" in
the business acceptation OF the term, the market
is Hooded with worthless copies, cheap and
paltry, which are highly colored, polished OF
smooth, and sold for something better than they
w.
fierce necessity which is felt for making money
is destroying all honor and integrity i'm mercail-
tile transactions, and threatens TO make it a
oye,word among people who still possess any
uuth or honesty. Of course there are good fab.
rics and good qualities of well-known fabrics
sun TO be had, but warn my readers that thew
,heSn!y no, 70 pe nad cheap" Antwerp or "Ca-
tnedraI SILK still costs so per yard, best rich
Poplins S2t5; and when certain materials which
nave established regulations are advertised AT
low prices, they may be sure they are not gen
When the spring season opened a few wears
ago, 1t was quite possible to state with accuracy
mem tle ma,erlals H IN vogue, OF what they were com
Pose9, the prices, and the uses to which thew
should be put. Now it would puzzle the Boston
sharper to distinguish between the Infinite Va
rietles OF one distinctive fabric.
VI poplfns, for example, there are about thre.
hundred varieties, from the old tenth" To the
all cotton :" W ASH article. which women pays3x
TO 90 cents per yard for, because it is called
'Popln," and make inexpensively with suits
when they could get a print for one-third thai
price which would be really better and more
desirable for the purpose.
"Pophnette, made of silk and linen, re-
appears III silk and cotton. under the name of
japanese Poplin,' and brings Just as high n
price, although not half so good in texture
thinner and fancier variety Of the same fabrics
appears this season under the name Of "Pongee
SIX, and thus wins some OF the credit due 10
the reputation won by the Pongee poplins when
they hrst made their appearance, but which
they are fast losing under the burden of the
tribe OF Poneees which have followed them.
1T Is better TO get a pure silk than a mixed
satn or velvet; pure fine wool, than tawdy
SILK; simple cotton, than a cotton which pro-
fesses TO be, but which is not ANYTHING else and
upon which it is necessary to expend a auanti-
Y OF cheap trimmings to still further dis
guise IL.
The quantity Of trimmings now employed is
so enormous that il is used as an argument la
teneT ters hide d Ss SshsaP 9qaty Of material at mat
says Miss Pinchbeck, "when TX Is covered with
rnttes, plating and lace"
Wel-perhaps il does not, but one cannot
help thinking that truth, and purity, and re-
hnement thrive better in an atmosphere of
honesty than in one of mere pretension,: that
we should cease to rely On God Almighty il he
should bring out good grass, and flowers, and
fruits one season, and then endeavor TO palm of
upon US a thousand miserable limitations fair 10
The eye, but ashes to the touch: and that men do
more than make an extra dollar, when they
falsely label their productions and put them
upon the market for what they are not they
undermine the honor and integrity OF the whole
nation.
HATS AND BoNSETs.
Millinery openings are no longer a matter OF
any conses..----, ~~~vf,s ~nerurng op-
portunity for a newspaper article. In fact
milliners have almost ceased TO have a separate
existence, or interest from the rest of the world
The bonnet, what there is Of il, Is almost il not
quite merged INTO the hat, and is now so often
required en- suife with the dress, that all the
more milliners at work to execute their orders.
Hats are generally of straw, though some are
made OF lace, and some of Grape and satin, but
the bOnRets worn by eleooates, when they leave
OF velvet are nearly always Of silk and satin To
match the material and trimmings of the dress
or Of black lace with ornaments in exact har-
mony with the rest of the attire.
Contrasts never have found much favor in
Parls; but this season they are only allowed I'm
trimmings. Different shades Of the same color
well arranged, are considered very distingue;
but the yeIlows and scarlets, the pinks and blues
the greys and crimsons, especially in bonnets
are quite obsolete. To carry out the idea, r;an-
and produced thousands of dashinge high,
crowned hats of the period i'm blue, green and
lilac straw. or course, there is nothing to be
than against q brown or BLACK one, exce5t that
in these decided c0l0rs and pronounced STYLES
the very sight of them tires one excessively,
them as they were to get them, which is proba- |
bly, what the cute manufacturers intended.
GLMPsEs OF THE UNSEEN.
But the windows and display counters of even |
the largest establishments afford but little indi-
cation Of what will really constitute fashion |
later in the season. All the pretty straw hats !
and highly trimmed boanets, the long robes, the
Of every description have been the work of the
past winter, If they were not left over from the |
previous summer, and simply reproduce the
styles which did not sell, or those which sold
sanctuary Of such artistes as Madame Nathalie
lehman tells quite different story from any
tnat one may read upon the street.
Enter the salons upon the ground floor Of their
house in Ninth street. They are bare of any-
thing but few pretty flowers and ornaments In
cases. and Madame" is perhaps assured that
there Is no novelty at present. But suppose we
are favored? Sliding doors are closed, giass
doors are opened, and from perfumed boxes are
brought forth the latest evidences of Parisian
taste, the most exquisite creation Of Partisan
skill.
The bonnets are like gems, each one I. 50 per-
rect, 90 distinctive, % peculiar 70 itsel and they
possess that rare charm Of perfection in detail,
as well as In the completeness of effect.
The shapes are quite the revival Of An Old |
style; they are half cottage, half gipsey, with /
straight crown, small brfm, thrown up, or
thrown back, and indented curtain. They are
bordered with lace, twisted round the crown,
and forming lappets ct the back, bunch OF
flowers and strinas TO de under the chin.
There is . lovely satin edged straw, trimmed
with maize-colored China Grape, edged with
syiack lace, Grape cappets, pink roses and full
SiscH ,sc~ nth rose buds upon the tnslde. |
W TSsre is = Louie Fourteenth bonnet Of black
lace. the brin thrown up, the trimming osckot
The brim. pink and yellow rose WITT q mass OF
Vopderfnl foliage between,
A..SS.;.e Nine rPepe edged with crimDed friu1e