, 1870-02-20
"REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL,
A Church and the Devo-
tees,
IN Evening on the Piazza.


tsst dtsappcar:Lg before the Invasion OF railroads
at tclegspas; soon. lie the b1ndttt And plc.ur-
csque costcnes OF the ptAsantry, only 10 be met
in sone cid oil ra:nurE or 'proof before iestefs-"
saE toth.nz 10 suggest the origin OF It's name,
los, indeed, Anything connected With the es;ab-
lisnuent reE.lndinR enc In .ne least Of p'geouss
un1etk, refh4pt, the unfortunate travellers VINO
allowed themselves 10 be decoycd into Ii. un-
comfortable and dis!y neAi by taat old bird OF
prey, The 1andlo1d. TO be plucked with = facility
and aedTeBs which, Judging from the length OF biz
ii. nue, have been p1odts:oua I had lett vcalce
eally In the morning, and arrived In Verona
l:isle atttr oon, not the least falaue1 With nve
h1u,s' travel through a most beauNEu! aud varied
ll,r Of county. 1t II we we,e In the ercein:e OF
lie sorttess.-wh!le In the possession OF the Aus
traDs the strongest In The whole woriI,-one OF
tic qusdrlatctal twtth Msntua, Petchiera, md
:!tEra.c1 which stepped the Victorious !eg+ous OF
Napoleon H. after Soife1ioo, and procured fos
Acs:rta The peace OF vLls1Eaoca- Whea the
r, '.~thi evacuated venetl1 they disnAurled tue
tcur e,en: fortsesses, and, - the Italians Lever
Lad 'he sEotcy 10 restore the xorks, the position
has lest much OF It's former strength.
,eok an early dinner, washed down with q
r:pt o, re4 tnt, which the landlord eet before
I.n itt., telling me Il was choice native
r1cE,l,. ard the dover Of his collar. Af:cr my
teetl ca1e on Their edge. thanked him, hod
he csed he would keep the rest, or drink 1t him.
scI, 81 We I1slnri had not had our taste edu-
Gated pp 10 ihe. point lie then brought eco some
muddy pu,g1Lds, With wh!ca vas fhin 10 con
sole myfe:f. A little piece OF e'ck1y'colored
E!een!. h.. eliow cfceae, some nsearoons pfe
r1speeuct, and some nonIdy fruit. appropriately
woand np1re Entertainment lighted cigarette,
and ret oct for an atter.dlnner stroll. soou one
# lit tre,ilotln efceroni swocped down On ne
as his legitimate p.eJ, Overwhelming me with
p1uIrslcr OF Offers 10 show tn.s, Thar, and tae
o:het, wirdipp Up With the aasurance that he WAS
very poor, and The uEnsppy father tdtsgrsr'ato
pac.r, OF eleven children, all small (susu
p;ccoii,.
"Wny, jon internal o.acE"-; but look
q. b!E reaeeur,d ne he was Nt least 81, and
c!s cctless ors 10 ezcltc my sympathy had
alele led h:n lnto the aonre unwsIIantable
q,4tement In company With this 1userest'nz
ra'er fau,,tsa, ! visited scnurcb,-isa naEe have
fg1co:ser, aro, a. never o1Eed the invaluable
"Mu,1ay," c2uro: supply the deficiency. I never
carried Eutde. book amoug my travelling paSa-
phtruslls. nss,, rec.1se /: takes AWAY FROM tue
rfs.,.pn, wtlho1l which ms wanterfnEs wo7!d
lore nau their charm; aCd, secoodly, became it
s,st.p. you nj once As being naecquhtnfed with
the ccuntiy-a green hand" never saw peo1e
astosd gor the tnlyd time carry " Murray,' AID
uaa1,y d!trenEe With the eccyc'opedtcal John nar-
ins tLe1 second v!Ait, have. Indeed, heard ot a
cer.a!r Sens.or-Tno 1hall be naineleis-aavirR
nshs.ed ct teEg at}e 10 "do'' the continent with
OF: othtr asxulsfteA than murray" and ioofh'
bush, rnc, being nsIed which he would rather
dtspcnsa With. Il !: were necessary, unhesAahnsS )
replied, "WhJ, The tooth -hEush. Of coursa." Bui
this story has teen atts4outcd TO diseonasee
political opponent
To return TO our larnhs. or, oar church: Il wa!
as big, and had a. Sooty altar pieces. ant
gusts OF wind. nod aegSars. and wA1 tapefs. al
thcmstorit, Of Ito.!an churches. Some Of the pic
turcs l<ye nne,-one OF Madonna and child es
ptc!a:ls over one Of tie smaller asesa- Tue oone!
OF soEe saint repoFe In tnts chureh. saw I
ruuher OF little cueTtaes hang up. With lls'ft
tlaups ne1r them comuemoratlng mitacles per
:o,tned by him on behalf OF his vo1sries. Here {
tuef caves n, while tho saint, tost IN the nick
.lmc, catches the fatal bs:cE about 10 Smash {
puoi naRn'1 hesd. Here o scsuoldsng, Will
tuaeopa on It, falls, and the Hstnl crPortuue.
steps IN TO prevent their going into hosalcs o.
The pavement Then again LADY, feceh'l
blssked with sxlus, haog4 up her ofetpgs-t~
little silver hearts and picture reptesentng
sick LADY. looked tn win for some test.uoa.l
from teI husband. iFerhepB the wretch tso1sh
he tcseyved eEc hluhelL) Here, he is snatchtnc
youre lady cut OF = river. Indeed, ,.hiB sslntsn
eeeord 10 tske peculiar and lively interest fl
The fair sex. md to think the men cou1d ah!lt 70
themselves. I loanged nearsT AZ hour aloul'
tho clutch II ltke 10 lounge IN ttallA,
S;1ojNrg down the ceatre hltle, l heard
6obbllg ard complaining IN the direction Of .
elIe altar. estnped taat Way and BAW youu
npd beautiful WOMAN, all IN black, with 9 lon
vet fasteced on the back OF her head 10 tue Fcto
Ettc fAshior, 1neclinR before the altat luvoktu
the lado1Ia IN AID Of kone domestic compiler
lion. Her husnnnnh affections seemed 10 has
tten al,esated ron her. a.d Whist with chitdasi
rass,crstc sestrsez and y eotal disregard Of ii
r1bllc,ty OF tho place, she vent on about h'
LnIpl, who. from the few words invount7rt
ovcrh.a.c srcu.ed 10 bare becn carrying Il
taitg "lectla too fa.." Fearing further d;
Closures Incompatible With the natiEs modes
All American Jouth beAEtng the peslls Of q Eur
reau iour, NED. Even now can recail the lit
ltcc Nl,h lis nlg black eJel full Of teass, Il
s,sa:ant rcse, the mouth ttne large perhAp
hu, srcn :" leeth:-and The sAh, Batonna mi
+anfisznre tthet<tta, aedndor1afa fo, Luigi Luigi.
In c1ozA,cG the aisle l 6aM another WOES
kneel,Ig ie!o1e . picture OF the Madonn
Though no. as heAoulul as the olner. hers Y.
u iace not 10 be p2ssed unnonced. looke
It Ter fer ncneut and then ht the altar piece
Itort. Fancy my burp1lAe4 1t wastne name foe
ikta1tea, rubbed my eyes, looked hgsln, It WAS I
hAliGciLntlon-she resemblance VA perfect, ev,
the attitude Of both WAS nearly the RANG. Tus7
tpE to the old acourdte, the eietrone. nsked hi
II lie tle = the R!riA r1me- He told me she VI
crlebrsted for her beauty, was - frair "a fair,
fac. roted AfrasiA Of Tetoaa, n!cknaued
otcctrs nEd nebi!i, La Belle Itd1f1. Let not 4
iAl. cour'rIwoneu be surprised at tho pscsen
OF such = perron IN church. In Italy nothing
1pcon pststlo with religion. The csttzord!ua
Fe<enoL4rce puzzled me I'll cb.errcd tnzs, unII,
mott u the pictures IN the church, this one "
OF modern Origin, ard tecollected that Ia 1taly t.
profession Of 4 model Is occasionally united to
less IelutAhle one. Her real vc.ation could net,
have been suspected fsoin her appea
aLca She did not appear more ii,
Il. though probably older, md b:
very mcl-st and retiring, eycn louoeeu
ltot- Thus t happeIed hae appcAzed To bo wo
sh:pprK herr e.',-not the uSst woman who Ii
been surprised at It, though few take such
roundabout way to dol
Impressed With theEe eyIttlces of volatility
tts Italian cha1nc,ei, lett rbe church 10 yislk
tont4 OF the ScnE Ell or Freat family Of In SCI
ThtRe were Aituatrd IN q very damp little cau1
% side ttEeet The monnnents nsc In excel,
CrrsetSalion, IN tie Gothic kss1e Of the eint
e<nre. There lsy the stone knights calmly rep
irE On their Ioble basis, thc:r eaunt.eted In:
C'tl.sed OF thCsr proud 6.onachE, waiting .or
laSt uunp to tunHon Them once mote tutp sou,
Ien- The largeAt tomb WAS surnonn1cd b1
rnAA TIRE q: beautiful fte,ted wo-s, a,ou. ffte
fec. L!Ee; en Top OF this was an equestrian ata,
OF the kpIsht whose bones lay in the crJp:
Lea:h. EyetJNhe1e, In tie churches, on
AbA-N9y tAC NoAAS4E II e&lGfLsf tuE AIM& u
ssultseri, ladct. tsca;n In lsal:ar) meets the e
The ,brretce Of tLis great family Wal ttlr ou,a
OF Fefun1. and toe celebrated thtatre In MI
H.: Scala. ee1'vea ,ts nauae from the snne sour
ror,, :eEuterased the patstatca 10. nts
.crlto1s, s,:stSsl a reIdtzvo-s With him for
GnItoN, aLd 6t1ttt for the " Colombo" Thou
Itelt eets,n Of being able to rcstace my at
without difficulty, Vas soon les: IN the lahl r:
nl cooled ht7ects, and had TO ark my way seve
In u he. ere reaching the Oatesta-
l. WEE new.ne1sly I, 10 proceeded 10 Al es
su1etr, p Rh,ch prurec 3 q; pcrdaoi to the dirl
Ttl= dero.td Of, went cut for stroll o.
a,szza4 IL lroIt Of tue great xupalsheatse, a
EtA:ing nJtell 10 frost Of = e,tf. With y saucer
!tcmaa pnLeh tc1o.t nc, proceeded 70 smok,
very la1S. cEas, l1atertrR meouwn wnie to the
l1a!5 halo, End Rs'ctipg Tee popu a'tout who.
ii An y { 1tEllAn toNEe, turn cut in fosrt 81
erE:owr- TIE Enua:sched afn-ets, With III
G:at u: : ror6 SID raIsuk Sahcea and Bsbee,a,
7. .bc tysQrcssAr rowtr Gu1B, TIC nez&a1t-I
beFstr:rE nct 10 E.na Them row, they z,
c. nr1c.et 20 tic kce1e 10 tne,r p:c:usesu1e n
ltosrE 10 Jolly Ana harps-.he pretty I,al
lsd!es. wises htc dsuEhtesa OF Inc ott1cert, aud
scarcely !eas rlery tnrf'7u4r,.; the so.,ler
trcm the e2orze1 laeeIoa,cte 10 the crc
ScaPolttan. in the:r neat, ta1S uulforus; tnr
Ariillesya en-, Ill tinscl hni Goid izee; the b,
tart net.s Of tie ta5ta, ara the wlite.spro
wx,1erz, ,sltrgether Scene ~ va11ed " M ~,
acc; white 1t tic background The old circus Ut
Tr3wI1pS On tnA scen- OF nlrcscen.n oeni
i,isulti5 and dissipation, sranding up among
molefn Eonsee. surrounding It like An aue
Etmsn amcrS n krot Of modern dAndeL l
tco es a, Venice, when the military music cet
p1Ysnp, s,roNDc n.nstre!s took taesr psseca.
the c1o1n conraued walking up and deWa on
1,rsrd rayemc.f, till rear'y midnight.
aitcs eli had depSrsed rcuAlue1 to smoke q