The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1870-05-07

an old sin against nealtu anu Cleanliness.
But they have not seemed to realize at an tnat
that If they will retain short dresses, the wear
inc them makes them fashionable in spite of the
efforts Of a couple of male dressmakers TO pre-
yentit. Fortunately for the focks OF feminine
sheep, their courage will not be put to the test
this time. The Empress Eugene, coolly dis
regarding hints and announcements, has Or
dered q dozen summer walking dresses to be
made short, and at least four Of them are to
consist simply of skirt and Tedtngote, with q
simulated waistcoat and lace ruffles at the
waist and throat, style very becoming to her
Majesty, and which she found very convenient
| for country excursions three years ago when
they were introduced. 1t would seem as
though it mattered very little what she EN-
press Eugenie (who is not allowed to walk on
the streets,) wears, to the great mass OF wo-
men who have to walk and work, and adapt
themselves to thousand exigencies and de-
mands of everyday life. But poor human ma
ture requires leadership, and II any American
woman must tag after an Empress, we can
only hope that she will show herself possessed
Of more sense than they.
NOBLE EXAMPLE.
The real truth ls, that the little CRY raised
lust now about tho return TO e1travagant long
dresses for street wear has no justification at
all in the facts, and is simply intended to Gre
ate diversion from the effort now being
made abroad, to introduce simpler and more
womanly style of dress. The young Nine. OIL.
liyier, the wife of the new prime minister, and
lady Of great beauty, grace and sweetness,
has dared to set an example of reform In re-
gard to the regulation style Of low-neck. for
what is absurdly called "full" dress. Nine.
Olivier not only wears high-neck dresses her
selfin the evening, but manages to have It dis
A. bof har LODI
expected to do the same. The courage re-
quired by young woman for such an innova-
ton, can only be understood by those who
know and have seen the strictness with which
the etiquette Of low-necked dresses ls oD-
served In 'society" in England and france,
and the universal horror which any departure
/ from established custom occasions. IL ls
announced that the Emperor OF Russia intends
to bestow upon the courageous young lady the
Order Of st. Catherine, as an evidence oi his
respect and admiration. It would mark new
era in fashion and In the history Of woman
hood, if others capable Of conferrtng distinc-
ton would follow this high precedent and re.
ward an effort so manifestly for the good OF
women and society at large. What can be
more absurd and senseless than an arbitrary
custom which prescribes a low-necked dress
as indispensable to fashionable toilette II
there are women who will persist in leaving
the upper part of their person exposed, let
OLQGr WOIlSu dt ledeL uc Wool uiSh
dresses If they choose. Low-aecked dresses,
to many women, mean neuralgia, consumption,
death; and always mean risk. In the change
from the warm, protective clothing they wear
at home. Is common sense OF 80 little account
among women that It cannot obtain hearing
in competition with fashion?
THE BONNET QUESTION.
Bonnets hang fire this season, and afford a
fine Illustration Of the perplexing snarl into
which the whole dress question seems likely
to Get entangled. War has been declared by
the milliners upon the small bonnet, but they
have no really fine distinctive large one to
take its place. They have dozen put forth
by way Of experiment, bat people look at
them, laugh, turn away, and either buy or go
home and make another Of the small, captiva-
ting chapeaur which have lately driven the
milliners to despair. The s'reaction1ry" bon
net Of Leghorn, with high, narrow crown,
broad, high brim, lined with silk o" crepe, and
startling display of feather and 1owing trim
ming, looks too much like a joke to be accept
ed In earnest; and the rest a:e only a COM
nor ugly enough to be distinguished. One
thing Is noticeable, and that is, materials have
pretty nearly dwindled down to straw and
black lace There are few hats in terry pop
lin, silk and Grape, but they are nearly always
made to complete suits by persons who can
afford variety Of head-gear, and do
not constitute any important part OF
Most dressmaking establishments have o
first rate French artiste to fill orders for the
bonnets which accompany complete toilettes,
and this Is much more satisfactory way Of
obtaining hat or bonnet en- suite, besides be-
ing less expensive. Dotted tule, richly
trimmed with real lace, and large Princess
rose, OF two roses in contrasting colors, con-
ott q uarp olooant honppf which In fayO-
rite at this season, because it does not look
too light, or can be worn with all sorts OF
dresses. The favorite design is the charlotte
Corday' and the "Louis Fourteenth"-the
former with somewhat large, crushed crown,
lace lappets and rose at the side; the latter
with straight crown, small, high, stylish
brim, and lace or crepe lappets. China crepe
elusive sort of vogue at present. which is not
likely to be Of very long duration. 1t is not
used 80 much in the making, however, as in
the trimming, Of bonnets, and Is so difficult to
bring into shape as not to be favorite fabric
with either miliners or dreesmakers In hats
for young ladies, white straw trimmed with
black lace, wheat and field flowers or wild
straw is only retained for travelling or for
morning wear.
THE MASS OF TRIMMING.
a very SuSuL 1uCTtdSe ID tue size Oh sQe DOu-
nets has been made the excuse for the mount
ing Of an inordinate mass of trimming. The
frail structure seems in many instances hardly
able to bear the weight Of the flower garden
improvised on the top. For this exhibition OF
bad taste we are not halt,as much indebted to
French models as to enterprising American
manufactures It is the regular thing TO lead
off with profusely trimmed hats and bonnets,
and make the announcement as if it was fea-
ture peculiar to the single season; but the old
est inhabitant, who had followed the tricks
Of the trade" would find it difficult to remem-
Der season when ''great deal Of trimming"
was not worn by those who could be persuaded
to purchase it. Square wells, and also the
small round wells, are of Donna Maria gauze 10
fine, all silk tissue) are used for round hats OF
colored straw, and long scarf wells OF black
dotted tulle edged with real lace for the ordi-
| nary straw and lace bonnets. They are worn
straight across the face and tied at the back.
The Capnchin bonnet has a veil arranged TO
| form graceful drapery, which is fastened