Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1870-12-31
FASHIONS FOR JANUARY.
New Years Calls Reception Toi.
1ettes-Cost nine de Visttc atis mud
Bail DreyssS-Silks az Panic Prices,
ele.. etc.
or FdsEion Correspondent }

rear Calls LUIS time Eonored observance. 50
dear TO the hearts of all kuiekerboekers, has o.
late years assumed greater Importance, and
been more strictly and TelgiOasly kept than
ever. The tables, g. be sure, 90 not exhibit the
abounding and generous hospitality which dis
unguished them twenty wears ago, when they
groaned under huge turkey and great boiled
hams; bat they have got over the meagreneSs
which restricted them 10 cake and wine, aud
display a luxury IN accordance with Tie growth
CT wealth ard the love OF creature comforts
which distinguish this age aud tits nation.
There il something really human IN this custom,
which keeps il alive aud makes II grow. First
OF January calls are not now hy any means con-
tined TO New York; and, in fact, the cusi0m il
becoming 50 general that IL threatsuts 10 be a
national in time as Thanksgiving Day.
TEE RECEPTION.
Ii j. understood, of course, that gentlemen
only make these calls and on v ladies receive
them, unless in the case of pablo officials or
state dignitaries. Weeks before the prepara-
tons commence by the purchase or a new
dress, which mast be completed .y the given
time or woe TO the uniucky dressmaker, fOr A
New York weman ha~ superstition about
wearing new dress On New Years day, aud
considers her happiness in a great measure de-
pendent upon IL. As the ume apprOd chcs cares
multiply. The whole house must undergD reno
Walton; lace curtains must be cleaned; silver
must be secured; table linen put in order;
various kinds Of rich cake made; stores OF wine
and fruits and confectionerles purchased,
ana every preliminary step taken 10 in
sure the success OF the final event. The
table, generally placed in the back parlOr
or extension room, Il set the night before,
the fiuit and confectionery all arrayed. ~ thar
nothing remains to be done but cut the sand
wlches, arrange the cake, small and large. IN
baskets and china dishes; make the coffee and
dress. This accomplished, the lady Ofthe house,
her daughters, or friends, betake themselves 70
the paTlors or Withdrawing rooms. aud the
business of the day commences. Old friends OF
the family sometimes make long calls, and even
JOIN the family dinner of roast turkey aud Oyster
sauce. at six o'clock; but Young men, who pride
themselves upon the number Of calls they shall
make. as Young ladies DO upon the number they
shall receive, fly in and ont with wonderful
pidify, exchanging the compliments of the
season, swallowing grape % glass OF wine.
and boltiDg-as IL the tailor, with his unpaid
bill, was after them-and certainly with more
celebrity than politeneSS. The last calls are not
uufrsquently made late at n ght and in families
where there are many young peop.e the evening
coses with a dance or sort Of improyised socia-
able.
To some people New Years calls seem 70 cost
more than they are worth, bat when we come
to consider how little there j. ia this world IN A.
has any real value, we shall feel that social
amenities and the fraternal spirit are worth
cutivatiDg under any form in which We NAV
f"d them, AMI that il is as vel 10 accept aud
M Ike the best OF what we have until the nata-
raj growth OF things gives us something better.
NEW YEARS TOILETS.
Among The ladies OF genline old families the
tOliettCs tor New Years day possess a certain
significance or character. Among taem the
custom IL preserved OF waiting upon their guest
upon that day with their own hands, not dele
gatiFs the trust 10 servants, some OF the
mushroom aTistocrats DO. Their dresses are
therefore adapted, 10 a certain extent, 10 tlis
hOme-like and bouseWiiely cOst"m. The mag
nitcence OF lace hOunces. very long trains. and
even a superabuursnt display OF diamond J. are
all considered bad style, but cOiors and material
are rot by any means restricted. ON the CON
tTaTy, tbere is more latitude allowed IN an upOn
any other occasion. SO that the high neck aud
The dtmi-uain give the ''cinner' or demi-eyeu-
III Character To ;he toilette, the rest may b. IN
accordance with the sweet will OF the Wsarer;
provided, always, that il Is becoming.
Oyerdrt>ses OF Orsandie upon robes OF pink
blue, mauye, or ashes of roses silk. have Tarn-
isbed satisfactory luton 10 many problem,
IN regard 10 New Years dress :. aud really ara
most fresh and graceful when ornamentcd with
rather broad black velvet CARED an trails to
the shoulder as the latest fancy ordlins. other
and very elegant costumes are OF striped satin
and gros gram, with au over>kirt OF satin,
tr mmed with lace or rich fringe. The bodies
OF these striped dresses are cut square, the
sleeves OF the long coat shape, edged with a fall
OF the lace TO the waist, and over these are
pretty open sleeves OF satin, lined with white
silk or satin, which come together at the top OF
the arm. but disclose nearly the whole of the
striped sleeve beneath. Tines satin Overdress IS
Of course, slwsysthe color OF the satin stripe in
the under drts -.
Very pretty dresses, and thew are - fashion.
ionable that they may serve as type, are com
posed Of silk ltafletssl AMI gt.d SWISS or or
candle muslin. A deep huted fOUnce OF mus
lin surrounds the bottom OF the skirt and Is
BEADED 10y three narrow alternating iOunceS
two of silk and one OF muslin, the silk ones
pinked out, the muslin edged with narros Va
lenciennts and completed By alternate ruaies
OF silk and Naiencicanes pat on 10 match the
shLt. Pagoda sleeves ruajed 70 match. Rich
PLAIN poti' q, sOis forms The can't tOiieties of
many distinguished matrOns, in the new olive
myrtle green, sand cOler, aud prase, which are
the iavorite tints, but which are growing 50 ex-
ceedirgly scarce that Il Is only al a few house.
they can be produced. These are made with or
without Overskirts and worn with >urplice col
lar OF old Venetian point lace.
VISITS.
The first days after New Years are the ladies
SPECIAL calling days, aud 10 these visits J.
attached great deal OF importance in the way
OF toilette. The most distinguished costumes
prepared for the purpeSe this season are com
rosed OF velvet and fur-ruby. clarct. golden
brown, dark green, and marine blue velvets,
mounted with narrow barls OF chinchilla
mink, Alaska sable, and white fox. The bon
nets are OF the same velvet thu dress, with
lounces 10 match. Black costumes are less
fashionable than last year, Sut PROBABLY there
are none more truly elegant. \ very handsome
one has deep fOuuce 0f velvet around the
bottom and several narrow iiounces above. al
ternatiDg with bands Of white duchess lace.
The long basque Is trimmed with deep black
thread lace. above which are rufies of lace hslf
the width, alternating with bands of tdrcs,ss,)
lace, and headed by leaves OF close duh silk
embroidery. The dtrectoiTe bonnet worn with
this costume is OF black velvet, trimmed with
mixture of black and white lace: and white
ostrich plumes. The velvet strings are cut on
the bias, lined with white silk, and ruified
across the ends with black and white lace.
Less expensive costumes tor young lsiies are
IN.
They are trimmed with narrow bands and
revers OF Asuacan, and Astracan NUT and boa
completes the suit.
WHAT IL FASHIONABLE.
one OF the best indications OF a woman of
wealth and real refinement is that she knows
how TO adapt her dress to all the necessities of
position and Circumstance, and does it. She
never wears white bonnet, obtrusive jevelry,
long dress or thin shoes in the street, and
neither does she wear q short plain walking
dress IN the evening, when ceremonious toilettes
are expected. She iHoTs what is suitable, and
she adapts fashion TO her convenience. Nothing
IL more common than for ladies in the country
to write to their friends In town, and ask III
long or short dresses are worn; If suits or cloaks
are fashionable; which is to be the fashionable
color for the season, and so on dd iafaitam. liz
seems impossible to impress il upon the m that
long and short dresses, suits, and cloaks, and
every color becoming to the wearer, are fash
ionable, and Il any OF them were not. the ex-
ample and discovery Of novel and pretty effects
would make them 20.
Really fashionable and wealthy women bv no
means limit themselves to one special cut or /
style Of dress. One of the principal advantages |
Is that they can afford enough of changes TO |
adapt their costume TO every condition and cir |
eumstance OF their daily life, and il is therefore
never incoDgruous, inconvenient, or uns suitable
unless they are dc heieEt in taste and Judgment
Win