New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-07-29
THROUGH TO THE PACIFIC.
VIII.
STOCKTON, SACRAMENTO, ETC.


the holes of the burrowing squirrel rocky ravines
wastes OF mountain chapparal still haunted by the
grizzly bear and now and then canada IL Ike That
Mexican world as lovely lonely, make up the scenery
The ranches settlers few and far apart there was
the old fragrance Of aromatic herbs In the air. which
seemed weeter and purer from that cause Nearing San
Juan however the road deep in dust, and the bare
neosed fields were somehow much less attractive than
the bare mountain sides.
The long low mission building, with Its Ranking CORR
doris is still standing but variety OF families now
phabit the former rooms Of the monks. village OF
about 500 inhabitants with more hotels and saloons than
seem necessary grown around the old structure
Tho place was thoroughly African In its still, intense
heat The air quivered the bed of the valley, and
the red mountains around slowly baked in the direct rays
OF the sum- In half hour the Los Angeles stage ar
rived with two three brown, dustcovered painting
who considered heat Of san Juan relief
after that OF the Salinas Valley.
took my seat beside them for the remaining twelve
miles TO Groy. One was Frenchman from the Rhone,
travelling in the interests Of kcuure but also familiar
with growing He scanned the country, as we adj
vapced with an eye to both forms of production Su
rbe % he exclaimed waving his hand over the valley,
from Pachecos Pass the Coast Range! "lncOmpara-
BILE All this level land must be covered with muberres
what do say i-Oranges, olives! Those mountains 10
the very SUBMITS will produce the finest wines In the
worldl Why the whole population Of France could be
tbe French people were both egotstcal and foOishly
conservative: they would not emigrate they always
considered to be best which and 1t was foolish
TO talk OF War and Pauperism inevitable while the
best parts of the earth were unnhabited The
sprung from the peasanace Of France but he was not
mere working and consequently no Casarst.
Groy is dull town Of a thousand inhabitants, the
present terminus OF the Southern Railroad. This road
will soon be extended into the Salinas Valley, and may
reach Los Angeles in the OF two years. When 1t
will meet the Southern Overland line from ST. Louis or
Memphis-or the latter viii meet it's a matter which
depends on Congress.
found an excellent hotel at Gllroy, and had time to
dine before the train left for San Jose Nearly 81
years had elapsed since first tramped down the valley
1t less changed than anticipated Large ranches
reard settlement here elsewhere in California. Most
of the fine old timber is still standing and for miles we
sped through the finest natural parks was delighted
TO catch glimpse I'm passing, OF Murphy's Rancho, at
the foot Of the mOunains-as lonely, yet cheerful as
when Hospitality received me in lsi9. All this broad,
splendid region is devoted chiefly to wheat and corn
when ought to be already planted with the vne the
olive and the mulberry. The Californian farmers, how
ever to have little faith in anything which does
not pay inmediately They have not yet learned that
grain will grow in olive orchards, and that the vine and
mulberry amcaby thrive together There are fortunes
10 be made here by men with only Hhae knowledge,
and with no more patience than the average amount
though this average, De IL slu, Is lower III INC Oteu
States than in any country in the world.
reached jose in the heat OF the afternoon and
learned that however California may be behind other
States in other respects in the matter OF railway unac
cOmmodation it to the 'front.' The train from Gil
roy Francisco directly by the station OF the
train San Jose to Stockton, but does not stop 1t
makes its halt at point mile distant and passengers
are obliged to take carriage for this mile miss the
connection When asked the reason OF this arrange
ment the ingenious answer "Oh it's to give Gus
tom TO the San Jose hack-drivers!" But, would any
other people in the world than free, independent,
equal Americans, submit to such thiDgf think not
The Yosemite House in Stockton is new hotel-so new
that the plaster cracks and buges out the walls and
some OF bedrooms have not yet old enough TO
have windows A piece Of the ceiling of the diningroom
fell during my stay, and narrowly missed killing the
clerk: in my own room the wall threatening that
moved my bed six feet at night in order to escape
possible mortar avalanche Here was another evidence
of civilization. Who shall say that Stockton
is behind the agel have no doubt that unfinished
houses topple down there easily as they do in New
York or Chicago
Although Stockton has doubled perhaps trebled) in
population since 1859, only seemed larger to not
improved. fanced sleepy South Carolina atmosphere
hanging overithe place. and involuntary recalled the
rather reckless canvas days OF ls49 when saw man
publicly fogged for stealing threemasers in the soughs
and motley, cosmopolitan life in the incpient streets.
PROJECT Is on 1Oot LOT
ing endless snuosites of the San Joaquin and mate
rally abridgng the distance to be navgated. II is
excellent idea and ought to be carried out without de-
lay In stockton, in most OF the interior towns all
temporary accidental importance has fallen of, and
the place fairly represents the natural growth ofthe
country. The inhabitants claim to be 1900; they have
several churches a theater, but library other
literary institution.
courteous German friend gave me an agreeable drive
fbc sul I had further
OF the fact that comfortable homes and handsomeykept
gardens the chief objects OF life in California To
Judge by external signs, Stockton would not differ much
from old seat of wealth and culture in the Atlantic
States; but should like 10 know how many copies Of
"society and Solitude" found in those luxurious
dwellngs-and how many Of "VashtiP In the streets
saw magnificent young elm trees in the gardens orange
and myrtle, and before the Court House gigantic aloe,
agare, in blossom.
The rush TO the Yosemite Valley, thsyear is unusual
Already more than 1000 travellers have been and gone
and they start daily, in companies OF six, TO- 90
shall not go now though the precipices were twice
high and the cataracts twice damp would give
for clover grass and dandeions Some day. d. ",
shall the Yosemite" the grandest thing this
planet Sir !"-but for the present content to be
ptied and deprecated
OF Sacramento may say the same thing OF Stock
ton-it is considerably larger The heat, now is
almost insuerabe, being daily above 9Oo in the shade,
and nearly five months Of such weather TO All
the business streets shaded by broad portcoes
the sidewalks the houses low and generally shabby
appearance. Sacramento has the misfortune Of being
and continuing to be- the State capitasnce 1t is impos
sbe to the expensive and unfinished State House.
After many wanderings, the Government has settled
here at last Ito Judge from what both parties
say its cOrruptions will take permanent root There is
good deal of wealth in the place, however, and full
average OF courageous enterprise After being burned
and drowned the people have elevated their city in the
Chicago manner, surrounded it with strong dykes and
at last secured safe basis wherein they may grow.
confess don't what they could have done than
they have dOne-in material way. Mr. Crocker Vice
President the Central Pacific, has just finished the
abandonment nriYate residence In California and as this