New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-07-30

COMPANl-ENGLISH VIEWS OF DIR. MANNING
AND PAPAL INFALLIBILITY.
IRON AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENCE
The first experience of a stranger in Rome is
naturally the selection of lodgings. This point which
must be attended to before he enjoy the exploration
of antiquities, the study Of artistic monuments CON-
neCted with its poetcal associations the Eternal CITY mas
a prosaie side Of the most unmistakable character
which, at first blush, is apt to make the most urgent c
upon his attention The repusive features of Rome are
prominent that it often requires novate OF soso
raj weeks before he finds himself at home in the a'"
pherc Of art He has greater latitude In the cho' "
the abode which he will probably occupy TOT 80 ~
able length Of time than in most other olt'cS
Is only a transient visitor. As geno"' ~
large fashionable hotels in the English and American qu
80, ,izz N snagna, and its vicinity, are frequentcd
osuv nv travellers who intend making but snort STOP
and divide the season between Florence and Naples ana
in some instances, Palermo, as wen as honc' An'0
houses are conducted in style OF great pre'ehsion
they are spacious, almost paata IN thef die'hlolS'
and aa,rd a better table than Is found in many other
parts Of Italy. But they have few of the comforts
demanded by the English and Americans, and the
charges though not remarkable for extavagance, are
ont of proportion TO the accommodations Inc ioou Is
superior to the lodging II is difficult to md rooms ID
pleasant situation and with sufficient light ana warmth
TO make them attractive of the largest, and in
other respects the best in the basement story
with the floor even with the pavement, and enjoying
the sun but an hour two in the course OF
the day In tho damp and changeable Nlntu
climate Of Rome, nothing can be more ulsihai IMAM
an apartment fronting TO the north NOhre' eVeh"I'h
the hest arrangements, can elven the cherries eoo
Of such an outlook and the hrepaces Of italy IN general
as Dickens discovered are made "to carry everythgup
lint tl, smoke" The most inviting exposure is toward
the southwest and with abundance Of sun IN the AFTER
uoon the rooms in that position afford an agreeable re-
treat from the fckleness Of the weather Some OF these
hotels are incOnyenently crowded at the night OF inc
season. and win hardly be sought for by the traveller WHO
desires retirement OF rcpose The Hotel della Minerva is
of this character 1t owned by the Jesus and carried
ON with strict adherence TO ecclesiastical prophecies
During the Winter the thrOng of Catholic clergy ana
their followers from all parts of Europe which arrived
daily at this caravansery was overwhelming, though'
believe, it generally avoided by our
countrymen. The Hotel de Rome and the Hotel de
Europe are of a similar description but on much
smaller SCALE too crowded to be comfortable and not OF
the highest reputation regards healthfulness OF sua
ton The lastnamed establishment in particular gained
an unpleasant uOtOriety at the breaking OUT OF Ie
Roman fever in the months Of March and April when an
extraordinary number of its guests were attacked Win
that subtle pestilence friend of mine who lodged III
the house seized with the fever soon after MS ar
rival but was removed the Hotel Costanzi' quiet
and elegant house in one of the most saubous quarters
of the city on the Quirna Hill where he recovered rap
idly. Another gentleman with whom became ae-
ouanted at the house of of our American pahtels
IA
parently excellent health, found on returning from
visit TO Naples had died in the interval with the prevail
ing disease at the Hotel de lEuIOpe having previously
lost a grownup daughter from the same cause.
Still do not know but the hotels in question furnish
quarters as safe i'm point Of health aEhe private apart
ents which are occupied TO so great an extent IN the
Winter season. by American families. They are certainly
more attractive in their arrangements and save the
temporary resident world Of trouble. You can take
suite of rooms and either go tOhousekeepnS with your
family or contract with restaurant in the vicinity Ior
the supply of your meals.
The pursuit Of apartments in Rome Is repulsiVe
and thankless task. You are recommended 10
rooms I'm a certain locality, as being among the
most convenient and desirable in the city, but
after tolsome march the execrable Roman pave
ments Qf you prefer the larger liberty OF walking, IN
stead Of the almost universal custom Of drivinG you
find yourself in a narrow gloomy street, reekhg WIN
nerpetua moisture with scarcely ray of sun between
the lofty roofs and deed with an ntolerable Incea-
ess which nowhere exists beyond the sanity precincts
OF the Papal Government. On one SIDE Is nlhiatHe
butchers shop chiefly filed with dead lambs ana caves
looking more like cats rabbits than the legitimate AMI
ls stretched AZ full length with theheads on, dripping
with blood the viscera which form favorte dish on
Roman tables displayed with curious Ostentaton ana
presenting a disgusting sight sufficient to take
away the most heroic appetite for month"; On
the other side is row OF stalls Incorporated
between the massive stone dwellings, where different
from morning till night, making the whole neighborhood
hideous with their mrelentng din. After cropping
through series Of unmentiODabe disgusts, within an
inch Of being knocked down, don't know how many
times by the fiery little Roman horses that are driven
v their reckless Jehus with re ious disregard to the
safety of foopassengers you at last spy OUT te NUMBER
Of which you are pursuit You enter large and dngy
courtyard swarming with all sorts Of denominations.
huge stone stairway rough and ptess to the feet OF
ascent so difficult that it be compared to nothing
hut Mont Blanc, conducts you through ls III
terminabe fights and landings TO the floor
on which situated the future home, whose countless
charms have recommended it to your adoption You Will
certainly have the advantage Of good company Every
landing contains several suites OF apartments which are
occupied by Of the most celebrated Vsltorsn Rome
as well all accomplished and eminent persons among
the permanent residents. visiting card, or small
PAINTED label desates the inhabitants OF the Deehve
Here is the name Of learned able who is distinguished
for his researches among the catacOmbs Next door to
him is a French dancingmaster, who came to Rome
with the Imperial troops. On the opposite side is
an ecclesiastic Of high repue, but WHO'S suspected
OF unsOundness on the Infalhbility question Go
ND one floor higher, and you will find
an excellent Father Of the Church from New York, who
Though not a member Of the Council, am informed,
ert no small influence on the American clergy, and in
whose modest rooms you will often meet with Bishops
and ArchbishOps, and other high dignitares OF the
Church. His nearest neighbOr is German sculptor OF
whose name had heard but who is said 10 pos
sess remarkable merit On part of the labyrntn'
staircase think on the first floor, detected the name
of an estimabe physician from New England, who com
bines the practice Of his profession with the pursuit
health in Rome. the card OF one Of the American
colony OF pOus women who form one OF the most Dill
liant Jewels in the Papal crown, and who dedicate all tn
attractions Of beauty and cultivation to the cause OF Hi
Holiness On the top Of the building, overlooking
mighty sea Of roofs which repose on the Seven HIS
found Massachusetts, clergyman with his family, en-
sconced in snug and comfortable apartment but some
what disconsolate in the loneliness OF their solitary
menage. -. III. , ,,.,. -