The Evansville journal. [volume] (Evansville, Ind.) 1866-1870, 1870-10-12

chestnut velvet, and the curtain OF
cape gathered across the back is also
of velvet, bat should be lined with tie
gros grain, and the light lining per-
mitted 10 show at the edges. Three
short ostrich tips of different shades,
fastened on the left side by knot
part velvet and part gros grain, lean
forward over the crown and shade Its |
stiff outlines. The strings of No. 10 !
gros grain ribon, are a yard long, I
long, and each string is of a different |
shade of brown. If it is necessary to |
add a gay color and face trimming,
place a crushed rose and autumn |
leaves at the base of the feathers and |
pleat white tulle around the face.
BoNNETS FOR OLD LADIES.
For old ladies who are weary OF
black velvet bonnets. the thick rep
ped silk or gros de Londres offers a
welcome change. Their bonnets are
of the close-eared cottage shape,
plainly covered with repped silk,
while cords or folds Of velvet follow
the outlines of the bonnet for Dor
der. The face trimming is mingled
black and white lace, or else lace OF
but one color, with knots of purple
velvet.
ROUND HATS.
The hat that has seized the popular
fancy for Fall wear is the turban,
whether French or English nlske
does not matter, the only difference
being that the latter has fat crown,
while the former is rounded. They
are made of felt, straw or gros grain,
with brim an inch wide, turned up
all around the crown and covered
with velvet. A velvet band sur
rounds the crown; knot or fan like
ornament is 10 front; and an ostrich
plume begins on the left side, passes
back Of the crown, and hangs on the
right of the chatelaine. Sometimes a
yard of Frou Frou gauzs is left hang
ing on the side TO serve for veil.
A novelty. called the Amazon hat,
is of fine black beaver, called plush
by many mIlliners, shaped like the
low stiff hats used By eGuestriennes.
It has a velvet brim, band, and jet
buckles, and blue gauze veil. Excln-
aiVe ladies, who wore the turban in
the Summer, have abandoned it now
that il has become popular enough to
be common, and are wearing the
Louis XIV. hats. turned up only on
one side, or else with high revers be-
hind. Short erect ostrich tips, POM
pons, and aigrettes cover the crown of
these hats, and give them q dashing
military air. An immense bow Of
velvet on the left side has two long
scarf ends, fringed, and arranged to
all over the chatelaine braids.
For misses, and with neglige morn
ing customs on very young ladies, the
new sailor turban prevails. A jaunty
hat of this kind is of brown straw,
with It's broad, curled up brim covered
with blue velvet. A sort of rope of
bias velvet is twisted around the
crown, and blue birds wing is stuck
in the left side. For a dark eyed girl
this is repeated in black hat, with
scarlet velvet and wing. For more
matured young ladies, white rough
and ready straws have the crowns tied
with wide ribbon in black and white
blocks. or blue and green plaid, or
else of the solid navy blue, or green to
match the dress. The brim must be
covered with velvet if it is turned up,
or lined with it if straight. These are
especially pretty with plaid suits and
with gray shawl costumes.
VARIETIES.
The newest wrap for carriage wear
and autumn journeys is large Talms,
called the Cancels hair Cardinal. 1t
is of soft, pliable cloth half an inch
thick, downy and warm. It shows a
different color on each side, and is fn-
ished by heavy wool fringe of strands
thicker than a lady's finger. Gray
and brown are the principal colors,
with gay reversed side of solid scar
let or bright blue, or wide stripes of
either with white or black. Price SIS.
Very dressy paletots for early win
ter wear are made of thick black gros
grain, or of heavier gros de Londres,
with wadded and quilted lining. For
trimming they have the merest edge
of gray cony fur. They are neatly
fitted to the figure, have the fashiona-
bic back with but one seam down the
centre, are buttoned up the front, and
have turned-oYer collars. The sleeve
is half flowing, and is trimmed around
the edge and up the outside to the
elbow. These wadded silk paletots
are to be worn, like those of black
cashmere, as an extra wrap, with al
most any costume, but will look best
with black suits. They are especially
becoming to slight figures. Price
Suits of black silk or cashmere,
with white trimmings, are stylishly
worn. They are introduced every
autumn as regularly at Scotch plaids
are, but have never found much ia
vor until now Mixed black and
white guipure lace is the favorite
trimming for such dresses. One very
tasteful costume, worn by a noted
leader of fashion, has Valenciennes
lace peeping from beneath the fringed
edges of black silk founces. White
duchess lace is worn beneath black
thread lace ruches of white silk,
raveled to form fringe at the edge,
are placed in the center of black
ruches; hOunces of black silk have
white silk folds sewed in with the
hem, that should always be turned up
on the right side; other hounces are
faced at the top with white, and the
lining is permitted to show.
eros de Londres, with cotton back
and heavy repped face of silk, will be
much used for trimming cloaks and
dresses of heavy materials. 1t is |
made in folds and pleatings.
Bias folds will rival flounces for
trimming dresses. Three folds of the
dress material, bias and doubled, or
else lined with stiff muslin, will be
placed at intervals around the skirt. |
Wooden folds will be sewed on with a
cord OF velvet or tiny piping fold.
Again, other dress will have double |
folds, half OF the dress material, half |
of velvet or gros de Londres. This |
IS exceeding pretty, and looks we'll on |
plaid goods, as well as on solid colors.
Other. folds are edged with Tom
Thumb fringe. Clusters of folds, |
with fri9ged pleating at top and bot
tom, aud placed overwhelmingly