The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1870-09-02
PAIL FASHION s.
The Latest Stylcs-The First Proclama-
tl0n Of the Tickle GOddess-What
to Wear and How TO Wear IT.
Autumn Flounces, Flowers
and Frippcries.

,ernpIes Of Fashion, and each European steamer
brings home the New York mOdisses who went over
this summer to take look around and make seec-
lions among tho styles that Partisan and London
milliners and dressmakers evolve from their busy
Drains each year. The tendency TO an American
standard OF fashion and to emancipation from for
eign dictation In matters OF dress and taste were
never 30 strong as at present At the opening dis
play OF foil styles at Madame Demorest's yesterday
his cheering fact was established. ana In
the bewide1ng variety Of costumes there
exhibited the majority were Of genuine
American origin. In fact we were shown
uHmlstakable proofs that some Of the leading Lon
don fashion magazines copy these styles and have
made arrangements with Madame Dcmorest to pro.
cure Der fashion plates and descriptive cards for the
benefit OF the English public. This Is the revolution
which VIC prophosed in former articles on the fash
IONS that the good taste and artistic ideas = Ameri-
can ladies OIL the subject Of dress would supersede
the extravagant and often antiquated styles Of the
Partisan world. All day yesterday the headquarters
Of fashion, over which Madame Demorest presides,
were crowded with ladies anxious to find out what
they should wear this fall, anu what is Of equal I'M
portance bow they should wear IL. Among the
myriad styles exhibited the following were the most
noticeable
In outer garments
THE POLoNAIsE.
In all its various notifications ana their name is
legion, win be the reigning favorite this season.
Each design presents Its own especial point OF
attraction, It's gracefuness, its adaptability, Its
unique arrangement, Its dist,n0ue appcarance-till
one Is bewidered as to which to select from among
the multiplicity Of Styles all elegant and graceful
Perhaps the most unique and novel Is the cyan
vechten," which differs frem all others in being
closed down the fiout, with proper apron like an
" n hao INT Tho
back, having the skirt sewcd directly the bottom
d it. 1t has another distinguishing feature IN the
peculiar style of the and collar, which are so
arranged that 1t can either be closed or open
at the neck. at the option OF the wearer Wide pa.
CODA sleeves fall gracefully from the shoulder
Tie close one underneath. Many are shown
with vests in front, either real or simulated.
and Of this style is la Duchcsse.n which is qute
name implies, q perfect SUCCESS The "Cecea'' is
modest and graceful lis sides disposed in that pecu-
the def fingers Of an artist. while the "Ophelia,h
la Princesse" and host OF others display their IN
dividua attractions, and viii, no doubt, each have
their fair admirers and supporters The 'polonaiseD
has, indeed, become an established institutions; but
for the accommodation OF those who SILL prefer
separate OverskirG and
JAUNTY JACKET
or basque there are nunlherlcss designs, suited to
every taste and style. Tue "Theodora' is graceful
ana stylish, with It's characteristic flowing sleeves
the "Lerllne" jaunty and coquettish the ''Aurea''
noticeable for its quiet grace the .Fanchette''
wonder that the ladies deliberate 80 long among the
endless variety of sacaues basques, jackets paotots
they are gradually, yet surely. establishing an incl
vluqali and appropriateness IN their dress which
promises complete revolution.
THE MErTERNICH MANTLE,
Wnlie we are among the wraps and outer gar
ments we must not forget our last years. 1avoriue,
reappeared In various novel and distfngas designs,
and is certainly the most appropriate style for ose
wear The Victoria is particularly striking in its
appearances, ana Is SO arranged In the back to
new design bids fair to become as distinguished as
It's iilustrous namesakc, while the Turquoise is more
especially adapted to young ladies and to be worn
e1i suite.
MATERIALS FOR MANTLEs
For autumn wear these nantes are most appro-
handsome fringe or guipure lace, headed with pas.
sementerie STIMULATING embroidery or embroidery
be The leading ones for the season, and win be ex
ceedfngy elegant in velver. The Marie Seebach has
this advantage, that II does not require any more
material than circular, and does not cut Into the
goods and destroy 1t for further use.
vouo seem AZ II ,eeTe coud be- nothing n. IN
Ovcrskirts, yet we are surrounded By bewillering
variety difficult to select from. The long, full over
So%6teay he te prsvanr s stSIe bt ns w vn
only divide the honors with the "Olye." the .Fran.
ces" and the Iewitching fernando" for suits. and
and exguisitely graceful, as their names mply-for
home and evening wear Paniers and fanoiful
From Overskirts the transition to sashes Is easy,
These are not as universally worn as formerly, many
oSy W a some S simple
natey in front, at the back or on tho left side
u. COSTUMES EN- SUITE
still retain their ascendancy for the promenade
These are still made with skirt OF O comfortable
walking length, and will be for some time to come
despite the efforts Of few utra-iashioaables to re-
nstate the inappropriate and untidy custom Of long
dresses for the street. The most stylish costumes
are made with one skirt and polonalse
ACTIN mum ATtHv
Will be fayorlte materials for early autumn wear
and VIII be equally employed IN suits. and In polo.
naseS to be worn over SILK Skirts either black Of
y color several shades darker than the polOnalse.
BLACK TOILETS
WI! ALSO be much worn and, next to rich gros
grain suit nothing can be handsomer than q cos
tune OF sable brand black brilliantlne which, when
elegantly trimmed with velvet or bands Of grOs grain
pensive sister. The 'bufralo" brand OF alpaca in.
trodnced last season. has not lost It's prestige, and
nstre not He;n ~ hr"nt os mohar tSua y, ~,
the effect OF u heavier material.
STREET TOILETS.
FROM among tile numerous designs for CO.'S
tunes dc promenade we select the costume
Ziteila for description. This dtSflgue Co.'S
n trimmed with bias banas Of Velvet poi Of
the same shade. The skirt is made walking length.
and 0rnamented with bands of velvet about three
lncnes wide, placed perpendiculary at intervals.
These bands extend half way TO the waist and ter
inmate In points at the upper ends. The polonase
away IN front, Stimulating vest. The back Is very
long and full and Is looped gracefully under brown
velvet bows In addition TO the velvet band the
pol0natse is ornamented with heavy silk fringe
and Is fastened down the front Of the vest with vel
vet bows instead OF the usual buttons. Rather
close sleeves, trimmed with perpendicular bands
Of velvet and velvet bow Of the elbows
. Designs for evening and dinner dresses are shown
In great variety, several arranged in various shades
Of the same color securing especial attention These
shaded toilets are lovely, but they require an
artists eye and hand to arrange them e1ectually
CHIIDRES's DRESSES.
Amid all this display the children are not for
gotten. For tae boys are various styles OF suits
jackets and blouses and for the girls complete cos
tunes dresses, aprons and variety OF overgar.
ments, rvalling IN number ana style those for their
elder sisters. The Justine, design for miss of
fourteen Is Intended to Ue made entirely OF cash.
mere the skirt Of gray, trimmed with four bias
bands Of blue velvet; aud the poonalse, which Is
strikingly graceful. Of blue cashmere matches the
velvet, trimmed with heavy blue fringe and blue |
velvet The polOnaise Is lOOped high on the Sides
md Louis Kill. bows Of blue velvet.