, 1870-09-25
End Of the Season.
The Fashionable smugglers.
Coming from Montreal
autumn Scenery and Character

Coming from mont1eA.
autumn Scenery and Character.
ffTox oCR OWN CORRESPONDENT
CALDWELL, Lake George, Sept. IL
Finding Washington almost ~ wnrm aa in
midsummer, I took night train on Wednea-
5Ay, and in tveniy hours was let down At the
Fort William Henry Hotel. between Saratoga
aud tie Adirondack Mountains. Three days
srcnt in this region have convinced me that
autumn traEel has little popularity ia the
Cuisa States. In the whole village OF sara
togs there arc not remaining this day two
hundred visitors, and the only travel is m.dc
lT Eenteel smuGG1css who so to Canada every
autumn to buy chap kid gloves, laces, winter
rhoes, and clothes. Within teu days or two
weela all the large hotels for tourists will be
cloted, and the extra trains, tho lake steam
e.t, the drawing groom cars, and tho mountain
stages will be laid up for nine months The
weather Of these highlands il bEAcing, and the
prospects more beautiful than in tho sum-
met: but our people travel for fashion,
and not fot nature; our summer
hotel arc all huilt OF wood, without
firoplaces or fuel, and the cold nights and
morning. mutt be spent siliveEing,Y in thsu,
20 &ha, the toughest frame succumbs at last.
Moreover, there is an indosc1ibatls loneliness
and so1emn,ts about the huge structures after
the crowd deserts them; the footsteps echo
down the long piazzas and all the halls and
saloons anrwrr to the tread; the clerks, lac
queys. and livery atAh1o- folks do nothing but
talk aloud uf the assumed end of the season,
and nj seem to Nish thAt you1 tho last OF the
clan, would 80 alro, to prcciritate things; BY
tMos and tHos the w1ltera ara di6ms6ed, and
the hrass band has long since ceaaed to pipo
aud boom Of afsernoone: nobody dances, no
body looks at nature; all feel uneasy and In
Geupg, and die pange Of winter are palpable
upon their grave faces and nervous hAudss
they are thinking OF the tons Of coal to be l.id
in, the carpets to be stretched, the buttor,
salt fsh. ard 1.ew mattresses to be purchased;
= warning md funereal stiffness fills the mir.
none can Withstand it.
The only persona who travel ara bridal p1ra,
fishing srt.. and English Canadians. Tho
disappointed, and they keep much to sheir
rooIne, 4nd discuss tho grest questions ~ to
whether they rha!l boaxd in the city o. keep
b.uae in the tuburbs. and, ii the lstrer, wheth-
ct the furniture shall be walnut Of rosewood
the grave1 they get, the moro absent and
helpless they look, and the more they wish they
had waited till tho spring. The seltish fisher
mon set uR early in the morning, spcnd the
time they Ht:oula lse saying prayers in IN
twisting their lines. and they 60 out on the
water and troll all day, and then have to pay
the cook for eerying up their fish in general
the cook serves t4em right by consigning
their fish to tue slop barrel, ond giying them
wEite-h7h or salmon week old instead. The
English Canadian. who has spent the summer
months III swinding Amcricsns, is at this
period on Ills way to the States to sec some
life, and much he mhrvels that the chAttesing,
sp.it L. s~nr1ning Americans. who have been
tjllnE the stEoots OF Montreal and absorbing
al tha calashes 1t Qnebec, should, in the
young-wid"~'s f4ce Of Earer nature, aud leave
the game. the nutH and the arising waserfalla
to drop and wnnder rnga,hered aud unappre.
ciA'eJ. Tl'ir il the very gloEy-time Of Ill tho
year fer ps.ie-tsians. equestrians, and sport
ing folks, hut nc have no such ciaases; tho
season j. duue: tho country has ended the
city. like the blsck yager's horn. has recalled
its swAr,hy pack TO their dens and fumes.
THE MOUNTAINS n FALL.
Lake George il the supertest Of our lakes.
' our sces.ery. and is woodland mountains seem
to Ire full ~ granite sap. 1t is poised smous
the Appalachian knobs, four hundred feet higher
than the ,,rart Rt uons Of the Hudson at Gtenne
Falls, which large village is only eight miles
to tho routheasi- Fine stages. equal TO tht
Swiss tiil,gesces, traverse blank roa1 through
muu',tAiu gap from the falls to the l,kn. AMI
the new ruau to tl,o Atironaacku keeps On To-
many lniltH portAEestwArd Bnt thore i.
nothing beyond Lake George that can rival il
ascending tro.n the lakeside; green is1eti
Laskiug like flakes ef mosa upon the surface
bays reaching between tho peaks to farms ant
IoHne. wt!l,e HI iyury against the woods; thi
water 70 deep and still that the pretty steam
boats NOV, with the velocity OF blAddera
tbo ytt. tt,n0 lei f. tn
hero and. :llrre, aud hotels ret on all the pos
ni"le petchcs the mi.ts and sun contendin1
s1,nE the stesps, here dark purple, there
nearly ve1million. below doep green, j:
Of the lake, Unity mics apart, stant
tbs remnants Of two military ciziliza
tiors, French and English, tlkinl
afsl:.s f.n" ,n. 4ss.Gs .s'a WITH wslu
hcan liberty 1'ntre is no spot on the cont
ncns 40 absolutely historical as this, 80 read
il. fitted for the hand Of the novelist, and g
we'll Availed OF BY ono who, If he xas not
grrat creative 6enius uas, At least, industri
ous. reversnt, patriotic, and successful.
FESSIAORE COOPER.
or coutse l mrau Cooper An anthor easie
TO 1Atirize tlan destroy, and tho paius wet1k
10 disillueioulzs sis readers is the best con
mentary upon hi. popularity. II he could NJ
make chasac er, be could reproduce nstut'
rutliaf with our history seeking ont tho 1oca
itiea Of it As patiently and devotedlv as goe
Catholic fellows tho footprints Of his saint
It Was well for us that he was no sportiT
Erute+qns, or .kertical genius, like Dickens
Thacksray, whose school has replaced his. =,
who would have made his theme slbortliuA
to t1,cir art He wrote not to create. but
commem0rate-an author resolved that Il
past should not be too lightly considered, 4,
should never die. It will not die, th.nks
his work. AID he has affected the imagination
and the reverences OF US all. Lake George
~ truly his recreation Is tho Scottish Hig
1auds Ani tochs are the restorations
scott Like "Old Mortality" he can
relig;ously along. and cut deep and anow u
defects, we had no other novelist for mo
than quarter Of \ century. Nothing stant
botuecn Leather Stocking and Unele Tom.
true author Is much the creature Of his them
HI anyone can SEQ who has noted how di1e
emily the laughlng author OF Family Fair 4
: rroachss ths psriod OF Henry Esnond: q,
The work OF Coopes in it's full truth and CO
sistency. can never be felt till We stand
Fort william Henry aud 10 k up Lake GeorE
No trivialtie@ nor nice huunota Of cbAract
betit the breadth and strength Of this scenel
A slender highway between the nyen mou
t.ine, where even the gayest crowd Of fasti
feels tue superstition Of isolation, feels /
long distances between ndso and water, bi
and sky, feels the keea. startling air, and
every Striving corps Of passengers sees I
tisns Of foreign uation and rival race-tl
il Lake George; and the artist has prore
obeyed It's aspiration, and set upon it bra
types Of rude mankind, and not the figne,
md piGu,ies Of : soclal civilization. We hs
wandered away from nAruro, and now no
cuse it in Cooper Of beng unnatural; but r
70 with the oFeu-air tnan-tho EngiishmRn =
the Germ4n-wl,o CONS to this lake with II
ereuce, led by ths intlncrce Of Cooper. Dc
it not seem like the frogs accusing Juplt
when Nh. JAmes Il Lowell complains, out
the clotstezn Of Harvard. that Coopet's wo
en- arc not trssonAblo7 Well for Us il Hoe
Bigc1ow had never had model, and LeAtt
Stocking Ne,s tho American type vet!
THE HOTEL RI LAKE 0EonaE.
In MANY respecss tho Fort William Her
Hotel, pitched II tho head Of tho lake, anu
the r1ljns Of the old 1edoubt. and near By
more iuupoainR ruins OF Fort George. is
most admirable and tasteful GUNNER ho,
in America. It uecd to be I long white bio
with dirinE 5oom slnE extended behind, &
formal, ina1f among these broken sceueri
of tho DcieSau Hcuse. 1t Albany, purchl
the property, and be st once spent ab.
x25O, Zoo upon il, raising tho firss story boz
twenty feet, building the largest
broadest piazza then known in
country. xnd placing roof, do,
aua rayilions on tho top quite upiqus
. Amesica, and bulk in what may call thess
rinlaeles ara derived from Alpine chat
1npdelr, sharp and thin as the shafts OF
n4xE- sround them, and even these pima
give ledRe to balconies and canopies. tt
sYe eevep stories in Ill to this house, incl
1uc the stages in the pavilions the ptaxz
nearly four hundred feet long, aud benest
are cunning laleonicd windows, where
ladies' sit, hearing the chat among tho
below. Tho proprietor has also te
IA ralnF nf 4hA a<4