The New York herald., 1870-02-01
AN ARCTIC TRIP.
Winter Travelling ON Red
River.
The SHOWS and Perils Of the
Northwest.
s~>~~~~~~>~~>~~-~~e>~~-
Six Hours i'm the Jaws of
Death.
LIFE ON THE FRONTIER

Two weeks ago I set out from this place for the
now Winnipeg Nation, ON Red rlver and alter q
most paininl but interesting experience among tue
snows OF the Northwest am compelled to abandon
for the present the attempt TO the plains, and
have returned TO civilization and comfort left
st. Pani with glowing anhcIpations OF pleasure on
the long arctic trip before me. Four hundred and
mtg miles OF sleghnR across the praries and along
the winding course OF Red river, with plenty Of
robes, a good team ana an experienced driver
seemed one OF the easiest things In the world to
complish aud The discouragng stories related OF
'sunerings and death on the plains at this season
we're listened to with incredulity or when believed
accepted true with idea thas the frozen trav
elers had not made proper provision for their trip
and might freeze anywhere. The characteristics
pf st. Paul are calculated 60 inspire in
<he new conner with utter contempt for the
thermometer and desire to get out on the hills
and face the winds. The city B entirely surrounded
by lofty heights that shut out the blasts which
swecp so terribly across the prairies and its atmos-
phere y so dry and clear that a morning walk with
the Thermometer ten degrees below zero Is rs ex-
1ilaratiDg as champagne. few days. sOjourn here
IN the midst OF ST. Pauf's most delightful winter
weather dssIpatei all apprehensons OF trouble on
tho long route the wilderness to Fort Garry
and at eight O'Clock in the morning started, with
nigh hopes OF glorious adventures,
UP THE MISSISSIPPI.
A railroad TO st. Cloud, eighty miles up the Mis-
sssippb takes the Red river traveller through de.
lghtful country, rapidly filling up with villages and
cities. The Mississippi being very crooked. the
road runs the prairae at some dis
tance from the river. not touching it even
as st. Anthony, whose roofs ana spires can
be seen couple or miles across the
plain, and from which q train comes over to the
station for st. Anthony passengers and freight. The
country here Is perfectly level for many miles, The
farms all look thrifty, with substantial buildings
board fences ound the fields and abundant stacks
or hay and straw about the barns. There Ii no tim
ber to be except the distant bluffs that skirt
the river, and the snowcovered fields, In the total
sbsence OF trees to relieve their dreary monotony
hook very desoate. About fty miles above st. Paul
timber begins TO appear, increasing quantity and
size as We advance nothwestward, but nowhere
standing in forests attaining sufficient size Tor
lumber. Nearly all OF it consists Of species of
scrub oak scattered over the prairie, OF no use
except for fencing. In this section the country is
ny. with numerous springs In the gulches but It IL
not so well settled as the opsn PRAIRIE owing to the
utonlnesS and sterty OF the soil. GraniLe quarries
abound, and vast quantities OF stone are annually
shipped to cities along the river. At halipast one
che train reaches
ST. CLOUD,
almost the utmost extremity of railroads In yne
Northwest the terminus being only two miles be-
Jond, at South Rapids ST. Cloud Is nourishing
little town on the banks OF the Mississippi nnd Tor
fwentyfve or thirty miles north west tue settle
ments are quite numerous but beyond that limit Is
vast wilderness, but partially explored and occu-
pied by few adventurous pioneers scattered at
wide Intervals The railroad station IS on the east
side Of the river and the town on the west side q
splendid bridge connecting them. Stage passengers
take dinner at the starion but generally elevate it
out INTO the snow before they have ridden ten miles,
% every article OF food is saturated with grease and
staging over y rough road In a closely covered
sleigh almost invariably produces at 6rst all the
horrors OF seasickIess. such was the fate OF our
passengers. some OF whom were very much
dilapidated for three days. lingering on
through the weary hours of staging, with perfect
resignation TO delays In snOwdrir.s capslzes and
DEATH but going into commissions at the mention OF
pork ard beans. long canvas covered sleigh,
with four seats inside, large trunk rack behind,
high seat in 'front.' four spanking horses, wh bells
OF various tones, ana driver that could brave
death equal to New York omnibus driver,
constituted the stage. Major Walker paymaster
United states Army, and his clerk, route to Forts
Abercrombie, Ransom and wadsworth, in Dacotah
Territory, pay or the troops; an agent OF the Fe
nian brotherhood on his way to interview Riel and
the HERALD correspondent, constituted the passen
ger HIST from the station; but over the river in St.
Cloud the nnDioer was Increased by two rough viii
derncss surveyors and Shep, the express messen-
ger. Ii was two O'Clock when the stage dashed
out OF town into the long, straight prairie
road. and sixty miles were to be made
before stopping. The snow was only about four
inches sep. although in many places the drifts were
very ierse but the track broken splendldly and
the stages sped along over the creaKng at the
rate or ten miles hour. Eight miles from St. Cloud
II the village Of ST. Jo but the post ONCE Ia called
Clinton and bears the following sign
POST OFECE,
: CLINTON.
GEORGE BERGER.
The nrss two words formerly had an 4 between