The New York herald., 1870-12-11

whea the DEGREES or Paris mllners dressmakers
and ling res ceased to emanate from the besieged
capital ana ali the notabililies OF imperial salons
he'd 10 Belgium, IL was supposed that Brussels would
become the CO ire OF fashionable life abroad.
Truly, ambassadresses, prncesses, the wives OF
marshals and generals did assemble IN this gay ttle
city, in this miniature Paris as the French
themselves call It, but fashion was the last
thing they thought ana talked OF at their
reunions The war, the allabsorbing cruel war: the
sufIerngs OF The army; the gradually dawning per-
ccpton that France would be crushed; the natural
anxiety OF mothers, wives and daughters concern
ing their kindred; their premature mourning and
ieryent chartiesal these things the current
OF their thoughts towards an unaccus,omed channel
one very different from that In which they have TOO
long sumbered.
Too long. for there Is In the worship OF Dress its
petty contriyances and exact perfection. such an
ln1nty OF detail that the mud which takes it an in
must reject every other occupation A woman who
is always well dressed whose toilet Is always par.
tculary well adapted to the place she is in, always
fit for the hour OF the day and circumstances In
which sne is seen, can be Ia all emergencies nothing
but q well dressed woman. Consolng 1t Is TO be
able To say that In the present distress OF France
her daughters not well dressed; that their at
tempts at toilet when made have been failures; that
the high and true OF this once fair land have thrown
| aside all eeg ncies, and visit In sombre brown,
olive green, black and gray, leaving unto their ss-
ters IN happy neutral lands all the costly veveti
| mixed with satin. all the m!never and lace all the
stripes and faille the heavy popins the glace silks
| and reversible retrousse styles. the worked cash.
! meres tho artistic gimp, the waving fringe and
softly coilnG Asatic materlas Thess are The things
| which are still worn In every variation OF plait
nounce and bouillon. These the adorments still
| made up with as much RECHERCHE as when there was
no talk OF battle fields and lamlshlng armies ana
burned villages. In this crisis there even heard
| complaint that ''people can't create new
STYLES without Paris draughtsrnen.p and more,
| that 'there Is NO reliable authority to
go oy - ,,a TINS ,i Is psrncaary aggravating
OF taking that lead In society wnich the queens or
style under the empire have deserted ana aban-
d0ned. But why despair, disappointed beautiesY
The embazoned char OF La Mode Il still vacant
though her courtly trains OF oeaas de jour ana 0ees
full a. many candidates the throne OF Spain
q snort time ago. Few among the ambitious are
capacated for welding IT, There lies the difficulty;
for IL 10 believe thai royal consti-
| tutes a regal wearer. The weight OF purse, COM
| mental clements required AMI because the neces-
sary attributes of such ruler are Infinite, aud
mas In the course OF years become the work OF a
! whole capital not OF one individual, TO ''set" and
clay down. the law OF fashion. rnis capital INST
also OF possessing academies factories schools
aud artists founded and instructed for the special
purpose OF perieclng every Industry connected with
the fashions
1t need not necessarily be Paris, because Paris It
always has been; but there Is no concealing tho
TACT that since this war began even French refugees,
whose business III the fashion line has been
transferred TO London, Brussels and Vienna, com
plan they can DO nothing out OF Paris II these
famed makers are argued with and told that their
talent must be stnl the same tney go they
snrug ther shoulders and reply, "Io nsdhqlte tcl -
which, IN plain English. means There not a
thing we can use here; we have not the same habits,
, HlOSpHefg WHICH Is 10 tlc same lllug water
TO gold dsn."
The city or Brussels did not for one moment enter
tam the notion that she could even temporarily sup
plant Paris. sue drew ito use poetic SINNER her
looked about. She would have Liked TOO to do
the Homage Of some novelty 10 one or her
reputed ambassadress ala her the honor OF /.
novelty. she appeared at recent soiree la a splen-
plum c0lorcd velvet tram. To make the best OF
what couG be had was the wise resolve OF Brussels
after tins, and the consequences Is mat the IDEAS
Paris bequeathed have been extended and improved.
The browns nave been beautifed by mixture OF
amber satin, slght, though very relieving. This
effective.
Violet satlns are made Of the three shades which
disnnguish Parma buncnes OF the retiring iower-a
rosy nauve faile, darker gradauon OF the same
for boulllon ana deeper stl icr nouace. The lrln
heading the bouilIon and founce are prevalent too,
as trimmings lor velvet skirts.
Cluny In tne ecru shades is used rs insertion and
frl on blue satin This Is very elegant on Jacket,
> made 10 match the skirts
Berlin wool fringe is placed on woollen materials
| Tor UeDllLOlletc preferably lv SIX which
are preferred or costly materials such gros grain
or poult.
The very untidy fringe worn on tartan costumes
Is gong out OF favor. The dragging skye-terrler
effect cannot be denied. White tartans are orna-
| mented With black velvet and chenille.
Gimp or elaborate and artistic descriptions covers
the most conspicuous part of tuose splendid Ant
werp black SILKS, Known as armure dAnvers
Jackets are covered with CLAP, which from dis.
tance is not unlike carved Gothic worA 50 perIectIy
does tine design stand out especially on velvet, blue
| or garnet
Branding has again returned TO perplex mantna-
makers. Sonne Cashmere toilets are SO admirably
braided that the original material underneath is
totally covered over.
Brussels has excelled in lingerie The pretty
cunning bosom drapery the founced White Sleeves vs
! are edged and waved anu made to appear OF dulier
white by carioos additions Of a bit Of black velvet
here and there. Then Brussels tarns out white
cashmere robes trimmed with ruche, carocd white
crosscuts and bordered with Scotch work. As 10
tue, 1t Is used for yerythlng; the white Is mixed
with black and the black Is mixed with white.
Among these | must cite black SILK neck scarf,
with Vaenciennes Insertion, then an alternate
stripe OF black. The front square ends finishing
with deep white vaenclennes. IL is tied Oh !
light, loose bow and s prettier than pure white.
Tne making up OF lingerie has attained the per-
lection OF art In Brussels; and how necessary this
lady rich toilet without tasteful white dlscloses
a very imperfect taste. Under Louis XIV. the rum
the cun, the ncnu and the hood were Thought The
principal objects OF dress.
Few flowers are made and few are worn.
plumes are the great features The are empoyed
COLOR the nesn or ibis plume with siyery lavender
are lovely mixture Hats are high crowned, either
square or pointed The trimming Is put at .he
back and made TO come forward toward the sides.
The fronts OF hats should not be trimmed with any
thing but folded scarf or crepe, rs tulie or fable
Fur slippers initiate little ferret fox, easel and
other heads. The tip OF the foot is the nose enade OF
black satnl, two enamel eyes shine out on either
side. and there Is a pretty bow on the instep.
These slippers have no heels, but are lined
with quilted satin / have seen some pretty
black sable ones twnkIing at a lighted coal
fire or the fender and some pretty Canada and black
maren ones with yelowsn eyes peeping out like
mice from under bounced petticoat. Some taste
fu shawl dresses are worn with tatieta Carloads
and jackets having wide pagoda sleeves lined with
silk 10 match the chemse russo and petticoat.
| Pearl gray chinchilla muir5 and velvet nuns with
bands o. other fur are made.small Bands OF feathers
are being abandoned on velvet and satin. Black is