The Superior times. [volume] (Superior, Wis.) 1870-1912, 1870-12-17
The GeySers of California,

The GeyserS of California.
From the Geysers of California, in the December
number of Lippincott-s Magazine.
Early in the morning we are ready for
the world-renowned stage ride to the
Geysers. Principally at seven, Foss,
the proprietor of the stage line, and his
assistant, Albertson, are at the hotel
door. As promptly as conductor on
leading railway, Foss shouts out his
"All aboard !" and is impatient of de-
lay. AS the hand passes seven, the
hour for starting away we go, IN two
large open wagons, each drawn by four
strong and spirited horses, who are famil
lar with every rod of the twentv-eight
miles between us and the Geyser Hotel.
The first ten miles we pass along
narrow valley dotted occasionally with
| farmhouses. Thus far the road is near
| ly level, but now the valley ceases alb
ruptly, and the ascent of the mountains
begins. The horses are changed, and
after few minutes rest we take fresh
start. The country is wild and broken,
no habitations in sight-nothing but
nature as it came from the hand of its
Creator. We look ahead in the dIrec-
ton in which the road we are on seems
| to lead, and endeavOr to descry its
course. but it is like trying to see
| through the perspective of a labyrinth
SO we content ourselves with snatching
occasional gllmpses as some ascent, de-
scent or sharp turn brings aportion into
view
The track is just wide enough for a
single carriage. In many places, where
it has been blasted out of solid rock
there are not inches of leeway. The
hubs of the right-hand wheels revolve
close to the perpendicular banks, and
the others almost lut out over the edge
of the preci pieces, some of which go
down nearly straight from 1000 to 5000
! feet. After ten-mile drive the SUNNI it
| is reached. 1t offers one of the grand
est views of mountain scenery which the
globe affords. As far as the eve can see
| (and the vision sweeps many times far
Their in this clear atmosphere ofthe Pac
ific shore than anywhere east of the Mis-
sis.ippi) mountains succeed mountains
peaks are piled onpeaks, gorges, ravines,
canons divide them, serving to threw
into shadow the sleeps as the fieecy
clouds go scudding athwart the bluest
of heavens. Gazing away for scores of
miles, the earth's surface seems nothing
but mountains We wonder where the
plains are, the fields waving with grain.
the vineclad hills, the orchards, the vii
lagos and towns. Apparently we are in
an endless region of mountain waste,
and doubt if it will be possible to find
our way back again to civilization, even
with a compass, unless it be by the skill
of this daring champion reinsman of the
world, Foss. He was born amid the
granite hills of New Hampshire, and
! there doubtless imbibed some of the spi-
rlt which led him, nine years ago, to open
up this wild yet charming route to the
/ Boiling Springs. How delicious to lin
ger on this summit ! The breezes, tenn
perirg to an agreeable point the fierce
rays of the sun, sweep not too roughly,
clear and bracing over these topmost
/ heights. It. is mountain paradise
How we lInb to taTy here for days, and
| get new strength and fresher inspiration
from this well-nigh aerial spot!
AS the stages wound their way up the
steep we met ii carriage coming in the
opposite direction. At first it seemed
/ that one or the other must baclto some
spot where the way broadened, that we
might pass each other But by unu-
sual good luck, we CHANGED to be in a
J
ahead several rods, and between the ap-
preaching vehicles the track widened
out little, pieces of blasted rock and
earth having lodged on portion of the
! bank. By all of one party alighting,
and the carriage being drawn out to the
very verge OF the precipice and kept in
/ place by several strong arms, skillful
driving managed to get us by safely As
there is only one line of stages running
over this route, and private carriages
very rarely travel it, little difficulty is
experienced in meeting and passing
After lingering awhile on the top of
the mountain ridge, the eight-mile de
scent down the other side begins. The
horses snuff the air and prick up their
ears preparing for the downward course
Evidently they are glad they are up, and
relish the prospect of going down, as
easier and more exciting. The driver
cracks his long whip forward over the
leaders, and, familiar with the signal
away they prance, and are soon in ten
mile gait. In the whole eight miles
there is not single quarter. which is
straight. The road winds constantly,
turning and meandering the entire dis
lance. Sometimes there are short, sharp,
elbOw-Eke turns, almost in ox-bow
form. Except at places widely separated,
the track is Of uniform width, leaving
only about SIX inches between the line
where the outer wheels roll along and
the edge of the declivities, which shoot
down one thousand, two thousand, even
three thousand, feet to the bottom.
where the boiling, tumbling brooks
course along over their rocky, shrub
bOrdered beds. The sides are rough
with projecting rocks and scrubby trees,
mostly oaks and madrones. A tripping
horse, a sudden lurch of the vehicles to
the outer side or broken axle would,
III all human probability, throw the
load into the abysses. And yet, during
nine years driving, no harm has ever
come to any one. The utmost care is
used In keeping wagons and harness in
excellent order. If one can control his
nerves, keep cool and enjoy the majestic
scenery, the sure and nimble movements
of the trained horses, the perilous points
and the skill and daring of the driver,
there is not a pleasanter ride on the
continent. AS the leaders pass the OK
bow turns, they seem to be plunging
head-foremOst against the thither bank.
but as their noses almost touch it thew
spring quickly and with certain bound
to the centre; round come the wheel
horses in fine style, and the carriage fol-