The New York herald., 1870-01-26
From Cairo 0nward---The Hating Points
and Shore Scenery.
The Guests Of the Khedive in Associated
Sightseeing.
Who They Met and How They
Were Amused.

rivers ] should answer the Me. say suis aiIer
travelling up the Mississippi as far as st. Paul, the
Missouri as far Fort Benton, the Arkansas as ar
q Fort Dodge, the Hudson as far as Albany; after
having had squint at tue Amazon having
seen the Thames the Seine, the Rhone, the Tagus,
the Guadaquiver the Danube, the Dneper and
many lesser streams OF Europe and Asia. All TO
me It is an DID, old friend. Did not lunch &C one
Of its head waters where 1t was known as the To.
cazzef Have not seen 1t braved IN those everlas-
ing old mountains OF Wodgerat in Abyssinai And
after gazing OF the mysterious dew and drizzled
mist after seeing the nrst small r pour down the
steep slope Of the Amba, and, gathering strength
It went rush like racer towards the sea through
the thousand denles CT Abyssinia and Nubias and
now, contemplating the grand river which that tor
ron: finally became, could hesitate In my answer
that the Nile was the greatest OF all rivers,
1t seems q dream, yet am / awake. realize 1t
after ane1ort after hard, serious deliberate analyza
non OF SELF and come TO the conclusion that have
v0yagcd the Nile.
Al the sky eastward over the Mokattum range
changed Its color from gloom to gray from gray TO
sanron, then blushing red changed again to
watery blucness, streaked here ana there with Grim
son ribbons, gauzy whteness and grayish shadows
OF clouds, and o crescent of molten light peered
over the Mokaltum, painted the Nile In silver tnged
the adobe huts OF Ghizeh and the pyramids with
lustrous brownness lumined the mystic groves OF
palms with greenish bues, ana nnaliy became ono
great ball OF living light The Egyptian government
steamer, the Ferus lett her pier ut Bouac and
steamed up the Nile bearing a number OF invited
guests OF the Khedive.
We left Cairo Boulac and Ghlzeh astern, with their
agglomeration Of palaces una palms, mud huts and
palms, lateen yards and palms. clumped tamash
and palms, with Mokattum range gray, hungrily
arid above all.
RbnAa In mar IA aintn 0pa at fatn
fatherly river. Another island, green with waving
corn bfurcares 1t into two streams 500 yards wide
Passing this the Nile makes o bold curve westward
The pyramids are seen ahead Sakhara Is leftward.
Then another curve ana the stately now OF Its
waters, lis expansive breadth, It's glorious reach
its banks teeming greenly with palm trees, Its
bosom shadowcd by Ibis winged feluccas, and we
are reminded that we are on the Nlle Come, let us
American travellers the Nile and its shores
together. Let us read them Alright; not by twisting
our tongues out OF their sockets In pronouncing
hard words, IN fine frenzy OF poetry sonorousy
rohfng through foios OF high-sounding adjectivcs.
bat In sensible way, out Of which practical use
may be derived.
The Nile becomes one broad river two hours after
you leave Cairo Treading the decks OF the steamer
you may have q clear view OF all your heart may
desire OF Egyptian scenery. You can watch the
great pyramids OF Ghizeh. which, you have
previously ascended you viii have a feel
in0 akin to reverend love for them as
they sadly fade In the distance You
oan sec the pyramids OF Sakhara and Darbor with
pleasure and wonder, the quarries OF Toora and
multitude OF strange sights. You have hardly time
to what you DO see; the steamer goes too quick
for fresh young eyes. II mayhap ar first destroy your
romantic ideas about Nile voyage. You 60 gliding
past groves Of delicate palms. past gardens verdur-
ous beyond imagination, varied beyond belief; past
IN array OF gray rocks from Arabia ward which run
70 the Nile banks In formidable array penetrating
through groves and leaving but q narrow line OF
vegetable lie between 1t and the river.
Presently you Will get accustomed to these mani
fold sights TO the connguraton OF the land, TO the
mystic coiors which tlnge the sky TO the profile OF
bluff and piaIn TO the picturesque outlines OF palm
groves against the SKY, to the grouped hgures OF
men and women on the banks, naked boys bathing;
70 the stratum Of dark heads rising above the banks
p0erng fsessy at the steamer as she passc5 to the
solitary dromedary and his rider sharply defined
N,ie. Your eyes failing TO take in the details
OF the rapidly succeeding sketches OF nature with
Tie same avldiJy at lrst look heavily, perhaps
MttIe dreamily around take in all, from horizon 10
horizon, and upon seeing nothing but palms ana
mud huts and sycamores, forest clumps near lowly
habitations, or standing clustered together under
the SHADOW or tabular hills or alone on the PLAIN,
with docks OF crows or pelicans, Ibis harpoos
sailing overhead or In the water, lapse into
mournfu, seml-drowsy state, out OF which you can
no more awaken than yOu can nv.
Having resolved Nile scenery In this wise, having
arrived at ruined Nile stage already having
the heightened Nile vistas, however verdant how
ever GRIM however romantic they first appeared
into mere snreds OF descriptive paragraphs, must
Inform you OF the company am with and whom we
are.
whom the Khedive invited 70 visit Egypt.
Among us are many or the first rank Of all classes Of
anthor OF Crimcan and Bull Run letters
50 the London Times, recognized by London
or ons a. wn s s daughter IS Of
Lord Pratt and the female Pratt, her ladyshlp and
three or four British coones and captains-nonora-
remaining celebrities are Professor Richard Lep-
Aus, the great Egyptologist Professor Frederichs,
srchGologlst Of the Berlin Museum CommendaJore
Negri President OF the Italian Geographical Society;
Comte Francesca Misnialcli Senator OF the kingdom
OF Italy and Vice President OF the Italian g. 81 with
his son. Comte Francesca; General Cnosto, VINO
planned the military harcor OF Spezzla; Rear Ad-
MIRA isoa the painters Ozzi Bena'1i ana Marnieil
Italian Chamber formerly Minister, now Syndic OF
Florence; Professor Bongn director Of the P1sece-
Itterateur, frequent contributor to Putaams Mag
axi7e, New YORK; Signor Charles EsculIe editor OF
Journal d'Itde, Florence; r. Hansen editor OF the
Dd0otGde, Copenhagen; Adolfo Rvadeneyla span
nn Consul ut Damascus; Wilhelm Lauser, CORE
entlre Swiss Legation, sehor b. OrIuzar, secretary
OF Chliean Legation az London, and several others
This party mas been distributed over two steam
ers and two dahabischcs In Of the steamer
Ferus. Within TWO hours OF our departure from
Cairo the Ferus party, OF which your special was
one got acquainted with each other with rapidity
quite astonishing. Your correspondents was con-
fronted by Professor Frederchs, OF the Berlin Uni
verslly and Museum. The distinguished Professor
unfortunately mad lady friend residing Mt New
Hork, who lt seems, had corrcsponded with him
upon American topics and had heedlessly led him
all astray upon sucn things. The Professor argued
with me very warmly upon the subject Of liberty OF
conscience In America that first morning He main-
tanned from the New York lady's standpoint that
was no liberty OF conscience In America tnat
our preachers were the most lll-educatcd OF any
other nation that they most corrupt and hypo-
critic. lew, certainly such as Beecher, Tyng DIX,
Cnapin, might be exempt from that category: that
though our churches had no art they yet were tue
most luxurious or any the world, and that poor
man could find no sitting room in Gods House;
shat Mar. Bancroft, our Minister at Berlin VINO was
Of the iinest gentlemen he ever knew, preferred
Germans to his own countrymen, because American
students at Berlin did not address mir. Bancroft NJ
Ibis Exceency;o that Mr. Bancroft lived In better
style than any German prince winch quite aston
isled him (the Proiessor), he had imagined that
American ministers would have initiated the virtu-
Gus FranKip. Professor Friederchs being very