The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1870-03-08
THE WORLD OF FASHION.
THE STYLES FOR MARCH.
Gayeties Of the season-Grnnd Toilettes
and Where they Come From-Seasona-
BILE suggestions-Griefa at n Discount
Useful Hints.

and Where they Come From-Seasona-
BILE esugsestions-Grief at n Discount
Useful Hints.
Jennie June, in her fashion budget for
March, says:
The modern STYLES of dress for women are
beautiful-there is no denying that-but they
are fast becoming nuisance to those who
have anything to do but to study them. A
plain, simple dress of rich silk or satin, which
would formerly have been elegant enough for
the most fastidious lady, Is put quite out Of
sirht by the numerous and bewildering
features of an elaborate ballroom or dinner
toilette. There Is not only the dress, but the
oyerskirt, and the pannier. and the sash, and
the drapery about the shoulders. and the won-
derful chignon, and the trained underskrts,
tucked and rafaed, and inc e. ornaments, and
to all, frils and founces of most rare and
dainty lace.
Where does it all come from Heaven
knows; but such toilettes are universal at
every ball and large entertainment, and, In
addition to them, there are such trlies as gloves,
shoes, carriage, bouquet, supper, and some
times ten dollar tickets to be provided for.
1t is easy to think at distance that one will
be independent and wear the plain dress,
without the accessories, but it is extremely
difficult to fight it out on that line-you are
with the people but not OF them. yon feel
century behind the age, you wish you had
stayed at home, and determine frantically to
get a new dress, a new overskirt, o new sash,
a large pannier, and an enormous chignon,
before yQ1 venture out again, " is all tho
worse because tie modern Jenkins" makes
on. Imagine such an ordeal for the economi-
cal lady who has only one or two ':grande'
toIlettes. she absolutely breads to go any
where, for fear of seeing herself put down
apain for the same 'sgreen silk and lace over
dress She could almost kiss jenkins for
making mistake on one occasion, and calling
it Lavender"
EVIDENCES OF SPRING.
The stores are fresh and bright with the usual
variety of spring materials, the most of them
clearly resuscitated, however, from last year,
and offering little in novelty or beauty.
AS the exceptions, however, must be men-
toned, some lovely satlns in light shades, Nile
green, pale salmon, peach-blossom, and the
like. picked out with the needle and by hand
In the most beautiful, shaded velvet designs.
The time and patience required for such work
make 1t seem almost incredible that 1t could
ever have been performed In this way.
There is also new style of Chambery gauze,
striped with satin marrow stripes, upon which
way.
These dresses, both satin and Chambery
ga,lze, were made in Lyons tor house in this
city, and cannot be duplicated even in Paris
there is only one dress pattern of each color
and design. The price OF the satin Is Sl5O, the
dress of Chambery gauze sG5, which Is mode
rate, considering their beauty and rarity.
Pure mohars and alpacas are about as SER
viceabe as any fabrics for early spring suits,
but there is growing tendency in favor OF the
fine cashmere cloths. which are so much worn
abroad Some of the Prettiest of the new
spring suits are made with silk skirt, walk
ing length, and cashmere oVerskirt and man.
tclet or sailor jacket. The skirt Is trimmed
with ruiiies or single pleatinS, headed with
velvet, the overskirt and mantelet with fringe
of the same shade headed by crosscut bands OF
the silk, piped on the edge. The mantelet Is
confined back and front with silk sash, sho.t,
wide and bunchy, generally consisting of Il
square bow, three wide pendant loops, TWO
ends.
The new sssatin" cloth is twilled fabric,
which looks something like cashmere; It is
flrmer, however, has more "body" and is q
trifle more costly, but Rot more so than very
fine cashmere.
Cashmere and satin cloth are newer and soft
er, and altogether more distinguished than the
serges and crepe Eugcnies, which, however,
are still employed for suits by persons who ad-
mire stifTer and more wiry fabrics. The ten
dency, however, is to soft and flexible mate
rIals to those textures which form drapery
rather than stand out in hard and unyielding
outlines.
GRIEF Upon THE PROMENADE.
The change that has taken place with regard
to mourning is quite remarkable. Much less
attention is paid to it than formerly, and Of
those who appear to adhere to the old tradl-
tions very many simply prepare black suit
for the street, and consult their convenience at
home.
This growing tendency to disregard an old
and long cherished custom is due, partly, no
doubt. to the sensible, practical spirit Of the
age, but it has been greatly aided by the mod
ern fashion, which has introduced black toi-
lcttes on ordinary occasions. There Is nothing
distinctive now about a mourning dress, eX-
cept the Grape. Such thing as "widow's"
can Ia never seen, and even the long wells have
too small to hold them. Young widows wear
their hair without ornament, elderly ladies
adopt small fanchon, or Marie Antoinette
can. composed OF white ltSSe, with lappets, and
Possettcs of the material, as colfure.
The numerous walking suits of black alpaca,
cashmere, serge, silk and other fabrics, have
lett nothing to mourners but tue time-honored
bombazine, which has been superseded by
other and more durable materials, and Is not
now in demand by persons In mourning or out
OF it.
USEFUL HINTS
White piQue and linen suits promise to be
In6re III vogue than ever this season. iiie
former are trimmed with white Marseilles
braid and s.FIamburgh" ruf1ing. the latter with
unbleachcd Irish gnipure and black velvet
A very good method to save trouble Is to
mount black velvet upon stiff net In round or
SQUARE loops and bows, so that they can be
transferred readily from one dress to another,
or takep of for convenience of washing.
Hamburger mfling consists OF bands in hand
some and durable German embroidery, which
last almost as long as piGue, and Is not eXpen-
siyr II trims chidrcn's gorcd pique suits ad-
mirabiy. and is used largely for ladies SUITS and
dresses also.
f,abrielles for little children, boys and girls,
In linen and piquc, are universal. They are IL
nroninent feature uf all the furnishing cstab-
!ishments.
Flai. single plealing popularity called "kilt'
nlcatinm, las taken the place of RULES to some
rvtrnt in the making mp Of alpacas, nohairs.
and snrinm woollcn fabrics The peating is
SOMETIMES nut on the lower skirt to the depth
of halfa yard. and the upper skirt cut ont in
lnr.r.. LEAVES. also covered with pleits above it.
Tuf Ihis slylr, though elective, because 1t is
novel. is not desirable It makes The suit too
heavy for comfort; takes Il great deal of matc-
rial and suon!irs unlimited corners for the ac-
,mT,,Il.,,iyu of dust. II will do for those vino
i,nyr many changes. but not for the little
woman who wants her suit Tor every ucca-
sion.
Plain. hicr silk dresses are made very tlreS
~ br uvcrskiriS OF white organdic Muslin. 10