The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1870-12-23

| fashion IN Europe.
| The proprletors OF the London Magazine who, for
moro than u year past, have published fashion
plates furnished by Madame Demorest deserve much
credit for their superior dscernment, and 1t is re-
| proacn 10 American ladies that they have not re-
allied and asserted their superiority in matters OF
dress long this, but have left II 10 strangers to
| nrst recognize ana proclaim 1t.
with Paris IN state Of siege 1t Is folly 20 talk Of
Paris fashions, ana English fashions being princi
paly exaggeratons Of Partisan styles, are equally
| out Of the question. We therefore hope that our
aides VIII awaken to sense Of their responsibility
in this particular and that henccforth they VIII coll
slider It an HONOR as it most certainly is, to wear
American styles. In times past Paris invented
fashions, London exaggerated and New York modt-
fed Now our prophecy is near fulnlment. New
York has begun to set the fashions, London accepts
without question aud Paris and the rest OF Europe
will soon Follow.
In matters OF taste American ladies' have an un-
questionable right TO Judge for themselves. Some
NEW YEARS RECEPTION TOILETS
arc on exhibition at Madame Demorests. tOilet
simple yet yecnercne) Is train robe Of delicate
auye gros grain, the exceedingly long skirt cut In
leafshaped indentatons back OF the front width.
and finished with heavy cording. Underneath
there Is arranged deep kllt-plaed 1ounce OF white
Brussels net, just peeping beyond the points and
insurlng their graceful disposition when walking.
The overskrt Is Of crepe de chine OF the same shade
trimmed with valenclennes lace ana has circular
apron Topped very high on the Sides the drapery ex-
tending across the 'front.' and represents In the back
very wide long sashes tied carelessly at the waist
and reaching nearly to the bottom OF the train
The corsage Is round, open to the waist In front and
trimmed with valenciennes lace Hall long sleeves,
regal toilet intended TO be worn by stately,
elegant matron at New Years reception IN Wash
nsIa on the pa boso with vene cona 81 satin
OF the same shade. This Is gracefully relieved on
the left side under pompon OF purple satin, the
drapery falling In artistic folds anH disclosing pet
tcoat Of White aille trimmed with deep nounce Of
Cnantlly lace. The corsage is basque, with full
satin cording ana completed with deep walstcoat
OF white faiIe astenes with JET buttons, set in gold.
The eA' sleeves sleeves : demi.large. flushed with satin
slightly draped on the inside under satin
magnificent jewclry OF diamonds and. jet Will be
worn with THIS elegan: robe The hair is habituay
ana still youthful face with the back disposed -
correspond, ana with this toilet the same couture,
s sumo by tiara matching the ewelry
An exqulsitely beautiful toilet, designed and
executed Tor lovely blonde, is IN apple green gros
grain Of most delicate shade, cl0uded over with
white bloom. The tram Skirts garnished near the
bottom with tule, disposed in iwegu.
by sprays Of pink apple blossoms, with
trailing branches OF foliage connecting the SPRAYS
and forming careless bouillons, eyidencing in lhe
drttste VINO arranged 1t. The same style OF trim
ming is disposed en- ta0lter, nearly to the pointed
corsage, which is modestly dJcoltete, in q square
shape. rather high in the shoulders ana completed
by pudding OF tule, interspersed with tiny bios;
SONS and leaves. The sleeves are simply puts Of
tulle over u silk foundation, strapped, as 1t were,
with SPRAYS OF blossoms. TO complete this recherchG
IA % d se Ta are
in front ana on the shoulders by clusters Of bios
soms with trailing sprays, and allowed to fall over
carelessy knOtted just below the waist, and last
ened with flowers. Jewelry Of seed pearls and q
couture OF pulfs and fluffy curls should crown this
LADIES' DAY.
distin0ue visiting toilette Is in violet gros grain.
arranged with entirely new style or accO.0moda-
4, tion train. This train, which has o round apron
and Is looped very high on the hips Is cut In broad
| scOops on the edge and bOrdered with graduated
edged with narrow white lace falling from under.
e oamce Of BIAS oan Se II o
material tied at intervals In careless knots and
| attached SO that the intervening space may be
slightly pufled. This Is surmounted by rows OF
black and white lace. standing little Wider than
| that on the bottom OF the founce.
The same style or girniture is arranged en- td1lieT
in . semlcircle form on the pettcoat and Is re-
peated, without the lOunce, on the Naf-Wde sleeves
and around the heart-shaped neck Of the position
basque. The outer garment to pc worn with this
handsome dress. s casaque or black Lyons velvet,
| scarcely longer than vest in 'front.' hut very long
and b0utfant IN the back, lined with white Florence
silk, ana trimmed with rich Chantily lace, headed
with an exquisite plsSenenterie resembling en-
brodery and slightly sprinkled with jet The aunty
chapeau to match is Of violet velvet, ornamenyed
with white lace ana violet and white plumes, the
quota OF black being supplied by the delicate lace
| veil. Furs OF snowy ermine appropriately complete
the Toy. ensemble OF THIS elegant l costune.
colored irish popnn, the demltrain skirt bordered
with deep band OF velvet, over which fails grace
| plaings Of velvet faced with gros grain. Although
these materials are all OF exactly the same shade,
difference IN the shades, inpartlng the effect of I'm
costume cdnsaGeu The overskirt, trimmed to match
exactly, has Circular apron, dfaped very high on
the sides, and Is very long and square In the back
| end open up the middle The c0Isage il o coat
shaped position. with velvet revers, and Is com.
chapeau which accompanies the costume Is of plum
colored velvet. made In the gypsy shape, Orna-
mented with folds OF gros grain and q cluster OF
tea roses, in foliage, from which springs a
graceful white ostrich plume. "A magnificent India
shawl is to be worn with this essentially ladyiike
toilette, than which nothing more appropriate and
becoming could have been designed iol the stylish
WeaTer.
in a tram robe OF myrtle-green iaiie, the SKIRT
0rnan.ented with deep fOunce OF black Chantily
falag over pun Of white Brussels net, DISPOSED
toward the front to the side seams Of the apron,
where IL il flushed midway to the ast IN handsome
wing-shaped ornaments. The heading is feather
trimming Of mingled white and green ostrich tips.
A Chanty lace shawl gracefully topped with
ostrich tips, form the panier. The corsage, deeply
pointed back and 'front.' has the neck low and square
In 'front.' very high on the shoulders and pointed IN
the back, and outlined by trimming matching
thar on the skirt. Marie Antonette sleeves. The
couture viii be arranged very high and adorned
with white and green ostrich tips, and pink rose
In front.
a slriklngy dtsttn0ue toilette for reception on
ladies' day Is arranged with demi-tratn robe Oi
uMarlc Louise'' blue gros grain, the skirt orna-
mented with alternate narrow 1ounces Of crepe DC
chine and velvet OF the same shade disposed In the
| shape OF square manteau de cour and a trimming
en- taolte' to correspond. the heartsna2ed corsage
is made with pointed velvet vest, ana deScondS In
deep coat skirts Ia the back, trimmed with broad
revers Of velvet On each side ct me MP y fastened
loosely tied low down the skirt, reaches to The
| edge Of the train. A deep sacque and nun Of
genuine ermine lined with quilted satin and love
Of gypsy, charming nselGn0e Of blue velvet crepe
de cline crushed pink roses and white ostrich tips
| finish this perfect toilette.
| CASHMERE COSTUMES.
When hearing cashmere costume spoken Of We
| expensive dress, somewhat like those worn by our
mothers. But in this we are mistaken; Tor, IN these
DAYS stle utge toilette de cdchenttTe Is conabina
| ton or silk with cashmere, and involves much ex-