The New York herald. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1840-1920, 1870-11-27
THE FASHIONS,
Dress Fashions for Winter-Enropean
Report of Costumes for and
from November.
from LIE Follet.l

are only admissible In dark coors, light shades
being reserved entirely for evening or full dress
visits. For the latter occasion, satins plain OF
striped, rich pout de soes gros-grains failes
veivets, PLAN and terry win be much worn
Toilets OF two materials Will be greatly in favor
such as cachemire or popn and silk, velvet and
satin. The effect OF different materials In the same
color is very elegant and in Thoroughly good style.
Striking coors are not likely to be worn together by
orr elegantes; in fact, this winters toilets
premise 10 assume more sombre hue than usual
except Tor dinner and other evening occasions.
The reversible striped satins are excessively ele
CANT and rich. We have seen many specimens o.
them; they are very thick, and fall in splendid
folds. We have seen some OF these made up with
part OF the dress-wth one side OF the slk and the
tnnic Of the other; for instance, undefskirt OF
blue ana white satin the tunic made with the same
satin reversed showing black and white stripes.
This toilet was more startling than elegant but an
other or striped satin, with court tram OF PLAN
satin bodice OF the same with rcvers, mousqnetaire
cuffs and basques lined with The striped satin, was
decidedly more elegant and much richer in appear
ancc.
new material, called velours imperial, has been
introduced Why this name has been bestowed we
do not know as It not made OF velvet but OF al
ternate stripes OF thick ribbed silk and satin, the
sllk stripes being only half the width OF the Others
he violet, especially the shade known as violet
deveque sailor blue, slate blue bottle green. and all
shades OF tan, rich Cordovan leather nasturtium,
DC, and very rich grays.
Black win be very elegantly worn For evening
dresses brighter shades are likely TO be in vogue,
such cherry color, rather deep rose pink and
amber The two latter wonderfully effective
trimmed with black lace.
Snort costumes win be a trGe shorter In the skirt
~ the season advances; that is 10 say, those in
tended for outdoor wear Will just toucn the instcp.
This exactly The proper length II any shorter,
they not IN good style; II longer, they are not
preserved from The dirt and thus Illustrate the in
tention with which they were introduced.
House dresses Tor afternoon are made with
the Skirts few inches on the ground, put those IN
tended for dinners receptions very much
trained ana very long at the back.
UnquestIonaBly, the most elegant and thoroughly
graDde dame toilet Is the court tram worn
nently useful style Of dress, the tram can be
lo0ped mp rs N tunlc for outdoor wear. Many FASH
IonabIe ladies are having these long trains made in
black velvet and trimmed with black lace little
curled feathers They are either open quite 10 the
waist showing the whole OF the front breadth OF the
undersklrt, or nave a small apron piece. The bod
ices are mace square or en- cCeur, with open hanging
sleeves. The toilets can thus be endlessly diversified
by changing the color OF the nndersklrt the pastron
and the tignt htting sleeves worn under those VI
velvet.
Bodlces invariably have basQues either cut in one
with the bodice or fastened under a ceintiue. Tn-
MICS are worn much longer, and very kauch draped.
There 10 an immense variety OF shapes Tor these,
more or less ornate Al the present moment the
small basques In lrsns and much longer AZ the back
most IN favor.
A new form OF body has just been Introduced
called the 'Re.ne Margot;n 1t very much resembles
those seen In old saxon pictures. It comes very
low down on the hips which OF course necesstaIas
great many seams. The SHOWN 10 us was OF
blue velvet, embroidered with pearls, and was in
tended 10 be Worn over a white satin with blue
velve. stripes.
Founces are in as great favor as ever: they are
very stylish when accompanied with crossway bands
OF the same stitched at each edge When founces
are plated they are generally finished 10y hand
sone buttons, or bows or satin or velvet which are
placed Oh or between the plaits. paSsementere,
with bugles win be much worn with black OF dark
dresses. Ribbon velvet, of various widths, and
wOrsted frnges are also In great request.
For more drsssy toilets, lace, fur, satin and
feathers especially the latter are the order OF Inc
hardly think this the very best TASTE. Lace and
feathers fur and satin, blend far more harmonIousy
There is an immense variety OF coaSs, almost All
shapes and styles being worn. PassemeaterIe, Ill
kinds OF fur, lrnges, lace and curled feathers are
nsed to ornament. The most hob0i6es are Inc hgnt-
lifting casauues with basque and tunic.
There Is very slight difference IN the form OF the
hats worn tins month, although they are, OF course.
made in much warmer materials. The trimmng IL
placed very high on the crown and continued over
the back, as TO fall on the chignon They VIII be
much more generally worn than last winter as,
now that the e0nneS are larger, there Is but slight
variation either IN shape or size between the cha
pcau euvert and chapeau ferme. The latter invaria
bly, have strings, which, coming from the back
behind ihe ears, fasten either az the side or under
the chin Felt, velvet, PLAIN or terry, thickribbed
hats or bonnets; The backs or either are generally
raised to accommodate the chgnon OF plated or
twisted hair
Many OF the hats have long scaris OF the same
material as the trimming fastened under the chin.
They are no longer worn round the throat "a for-
Ineriy.
We have had some very elegant toilets offered for
our inspecaa, OF irreproachabe taste and elegance
OF style. ,..1in among them we select the following
being sulc they will meet with the appreciation or
readers
Black sin train skirt The raber Is trimmed
do
headed BY upright rill Of black lace an inch and
half wide, lined with cerise six fringed out.
Round the train Is crossway rounce OF silk, i've
inches wide, bound with velvet, headed with band
Of velvet and lace. Above this another nounce four
lace Square body, with velvet and lace round open
ing, trimming Stimulating smaller square beneath
with bands OF velvet and lace. Body cut in square
basques, trimmed 10 corresponds; a three-inch
n0nnce at the lower edge OF each basque.
Claret p0ult de sole snort skirt, the breadtts
trimmed alternately with five founces of SILK three
inches wide, bound with velvet and crossway BANDS
OF velvet two inches and half IN width. Tunic OF
same, the front tied back as TO fall IN large folds
and trimmed with nounce headed by bands OF vel
vet The back OF the tunic is attached to the front
by large plaits down the centre fails broad caret
velvet sash. The tunic is also fastened 10 this by
large plaits so as to render It very bounant Wide
under velvet loop, and trimmed with hounce and
velvet.
with black velvet Tunic plain in front, edged win
velve. and hounce. The back part OF the tunic Is
q
broad band OF velvet live inches from the edge. Be-
low this are rouleaux OF satin ard thick corded Silk
put on IN the form Of leaves which gives the border
quite the appearance OF scolops at the edge The
tunic is plated. and very much raised the middle
OF the back. The bodice is open On cuur and
trimmed 10 correspond II mas two SNAIL points in
'front.' becoming very much deeper towards the back.
TINS n also trimmed with the roueaux
Light blue corded silk dinner or evening dress
with twelye-inch bounce, raveled at each edge
Above this Is an insertion OF Swiss lace, inches
and a naf wide. This is headed by a rnche OF aim
hike the nounce, two inches wide. A second band OF
lace ruche
Loose tablier with ruche OF silk on each side OF
band OF lace. Back OF tunic cut in two ueep leaves
Ir1Inmed with rnches and lace: 10 correspond
in three leaves. Square body with two ruches and
lace Sleeve to the elbow, with rounce OF SILK
headed like that on the skirt.
Black silk Skirt with siX-lnch baad of black velvet
two inches from the hem. Above ials band are
placed perpendiculary pieces or crossway SILK seal
Hoped at each edge and pIped with SATIN. These are
placed at intervals on the skirt in box plaits, and
ras hv fck frfn laav m