Buchanan County bulletin. [volume] (Independence, Iowa) 1869-1891, 1870-03-11

distance about the curving coast of its
Gulf, and extending far up the sides of the
Appenine spurs which partly encircle and
hem it in. The western extremity of one
of these spurs slopes down to the sea, d.
viding the city proper from populousquar-
ter extending for a long distance along the
western Riviera. Upon the extremity OF
this ridge, which juts out boldly into the
sea on rocky roint of considerable height,
is placed one Of the finest lighthouses on
the Mediterranean. Farther rp the slope is
an immense quadrangle of red buildings,
used as barracks. Up the slope and
around the summit of the encrcling ridge,
is strong wall and extensive line of mas
sive Notifications that reach to the other
side of the Gulf, and fully command city,
and coast, and sea, and land approach.
Various converts ard nunneries now sup
pressed, occupy with their great ranges Of
buildings, several of the prominent points
Of the sides of the slcping hills, and the
green shrubbery Of gardens Of palaces and
villas, hanging far up above the houses
with which they are connected, could be
seen mingling with the tiled roofs. Hall
way up, where the old walls of the city
once were, is fine shaded promenade and
drive. termed the Acqua Sola, Which is ele-
waited much above surrounding houses, and
from the higher points of which an exquis-
ite view is obtained over the greater part of
the city, over the harbor and the forest of
masts Of shipping within II, over the blue
expanse of the Mediterranean aud long
extent of its splendid coast line, and back
over the submits of the Appenines, cover
ed with snow. Below, the old city seems
an almost compact mass of rugged tiled
roofs, and when down in it you hud it
made up Of great houses, six and seven
stories high, built along streets that are
generally SO narrow that there. is hardly
streak of blue sky visible tetween the
projecting caves, and in which it would be
difficult fer more than two persons to walk
abreast. Vehicles larger than a landbar-
row cannot press through them, aud even
the smallest of donkrys, with his grassy
en- saddle covered with water kegs and jars,
finds himself crowded. Many of these
streets, too, are so steep that one could
scarcely climb them if they we're not paved
in series of terraces almost like steps.
What is carried into the houses which line
them or is taken from them. must be trans
ported on the shoulders and heads of men
and women. 1t would seem as if most of
this is done by women, who are met every
where with enormous loads upon their
heads, which they seem to trudge off with
with the greatest ease. Fluids as well as
solids ere thus transported, with nonchal-
hat eoop,a1 10 1ook c,,,1,nor
overturn as without the range of possibility.
The streets seem to be clean enough, as
they are steep enough to wash clean if they
were not swept, and at this season good
deal of water falls to act the scavenger.
The entrances of the houses, however, sa-
vor strongly Of a filthy people. The com
mon court and staircase is almost always
repulsive to sight and smell. In order to
ge, sun and air the people 60 to the upper
stories of the buildings, and the top floors
of these residences rent the highest, and
are occupied by the weathiest people-for
few families occupy more than one floor of
building. The lover floors, owing to the
very narrow streets, are dark, and damp,
and dismal, and doubtless unhealthy. OF
course there is here, as in almost every city,
newer quarter, where the streets are wider
and the above state of things does not OBJ
tain. But these advantages accrue to only
limited number, and not only in Genoa,
but in every European city i'll which l have
been, the Inconvenience of habitation, as
have spoken of them, are found. The task
of mounting six or seven flights of stairs to
the feeble and aged, must be very consider
able, and Judge that the wonderful mum.
Der of id!ers that one sees everywhere
about the streets and cafes of these cities is
to be accounted for by their indsposition
to undertake the labor Of getting home.
But Genoa is prosperous city, and her
quays present always very busy aspect, as
do all her business streets. Her somewhat
capacous harbor is so crowded with ship
ping that it is sometimes difficult to get
through it with small boat. The vessels
are moored in extensive rows, close along
side of each other, leaving only small
channel for ingress and egress. Should a
fire get in amongst them, it is painful to
contemplate what would be the inevitable
loss. The exports are largely Of -four, and
cheese, and oil, and fruit, and manufactured
silks, velvets, cottons and woolens. A
specially here is the manufacture OF fiigree
ewelry, for the sale of which some streets
seem to be almost entirely devoted.
Genoa has no art galleries worthy of the
name. but her chul ches are quite rich in
marble ornaments and gilded decorat ons.
She claims to have in her Duomo or Ca
thedral, the remains of John the Baptist.
and the chain which bound him in prison.
IL Va, md c,1,nr ch
der the altar in which the remains are said
to be enclosed. A bull of Pope Innocent
VIII, which is still in force, forbade won
en- from entering the chapel in which these
remains are kept, except upon one day in
they year, because the Saint was beheaded
at the instance of the daughter of Herod-
ias A vase in The Sacristy is also said to
be one presented By the Queen of Sheba to
solomon, aud to be the vessel out of which
Christ eat the Pascal Lamb.
The Campo Santo, or burial place OF
Genoa. is, although yet incomplete, one of
the most costly aud beautiful burial places
in Europe. 1t is situated az about half an
hours rifle from the city, surrounded by a
beautiful amphithea,re of hills. 1t consists
of beautiful central temple Of the Grecian
order, with wings extending along an eleya-
ted terrace, and enclosing one side of an
extensive grassy quadrangle, which is de-
voted to the burial of the poorer classes.
This temple, or pantheon, is approached
from the lower plain by splendid flight
Of marble steps, reaching up to grand
por,ico. Within is a domed chapel, with
the roof supported by large number OF
thick and high. black marble columns.
This, like the poriico, is only sufficiently
finished to show the beauty and grandeur Gf
the plan. Below the chapel is II magnif-
cent vault, where the bodies are to be TAX
en- while mass for the dead is performed in
the chapel. The lower part Of the wings
presents the aspect of an arcade or colon
ade, open to the interior. In its walls are
inches, one above another, to the height Of
fve or six, into each of which two bod es
can be placed, and which are closed by
beautifully polished marble slabs. Beneath
the pavement, are a vast series of vaults,
also closed by marble slabs. Against the
walls and between the columns which sup
port the overhanging roof, are to be seen
very large number of beautiful monu-
ments. Many of these are full length fig
ures of the dead, erect or recumbent, while
there are also great number of busts and
medallions. Shafts and plain inscriptions
are few brt all the the monuments, nearly,
embody the human figure in some sweet
and touching attitude or form of express
sion. Above the collonade was another
e.orv of vaults and r,iches vet incomnlpte