, 1870-10-28
WESTERN EXPLORATION.
Major Powell Again in the Viii
derness.
Diary OF q Journey 10 tac
Colorado River.
Discoveries and Adventures

(Co9respondtnee Of the TribnM-1
CAVE LAKES, EEAa KHAB, UTAH TsnR11uar-!
Ocfubes = !.
an engaged for few months m exploring |
the country west Of the Colorado River and
north Of the Grand Canon. My purpose ls
to discover passes into the canon through
which the river flows, ~ wish to make It
the base from which to explore tie more I'M
portant lateral cauons next year, and want
10 get supplies through these passes to the
river. also wish to make treaties wi.h tile
tribes Of Indians living back from the river.
that We may pass Among them With safety.
At the same time note the topography aud
geology Of the country as far al may be. Ny
work this year, then, consists OF serits Of
trips from the Mormon settlements to the
river passing by such 1Ldian vtl1agea Oh my
way Is can lie reached.
My next trip will be to. the river and acrosa
more than hundred miles to the HioQnis
Towus and while am waitl7g for nnn,heF
OF Mosmons and Indians TO como u?. who are
to 70 with me, will write you the story Of MY
last trip. -
S,pl. 14..-ripe Spring is point Just ACROSS
the U:ah line, IN 4Arizoua, aud We suppose it to
be nkou, eighty miles from tie river. Here
the Mornons design to build fort another
year. az an utrest for protection against the
India,s =. From here my little party starta s!lis
morning to bunt i ~ay asala tn tho river VIC
have tvn nii1ns with I'd. to slow lis the
eptlpge. fer tl,e3 arc very -catcs, very a.n ILL.,
and III, eaeily found. Half dnzen spsangs
arc NIT ksomn in 4 district ut e5uutry large
enol, Ii to make rix good countleE in Illinois,
There are no running tIre =ms. AMI these
apiires and few Nstsr pock1s (that il, holes
t.-yI f-,.+
| shop er), thtrs ase our only dependence for
| that element.
Our rtlus bed ing. &c, are carried on
pack ponies. Our way for Il few uiles ~
scruss desert valley. We leave behinl a
range OF clifts so or 100 mills in lergth,
orange and vesmillicn tAndssones. I lave
u.ueh them the Y-rmilIIon Cliffs. When We
are Out lew miles lpok back al them and
the morning sun IL shining III srlendor on
their fsi.tet1 faces; the salient angles ate On
fire ano tl,~ rr,1estins angles, are buried in
the cliffs Appeas l.1ug bank Of purple clouds
piled t.um tue horizon bish 1nto the heavens.
| At noor We psss along ledge Of cbocofato-
colorcd cliff, ard. taking out uur sandwiches,
our guides. with = dozen other Indians, die
cnssed fur hours the route We should take.
There is ono way further By ten or twelve
miles but with kute water :; smother. tue
sho1ts r, wh're water is to pe found pomc-
times. Their conclusion WA that water
the way We go. Yet all day long
we arc anxious about it. To he out two days
with on'y the wafer that can be carried in two
small EGGS il to have our animals greatly suf-
Ter. Al S o'clock We come to the spot, anil
ttore IL huge water posket containing ssv-
We camp for the night.
Sept l5.-Cp at dAybreAk, and start carly,
for We have long day march to tho next
water: They FAY We must ''tew-w1ts pung-
ge-ro (run very harD to reach t by dark. Our
course " to the north. Frum Pine Spring We
could see mountain. and I could recognize
it as one scenla1t summer from a c1iE over
looking the Grand Canon. aud wish to reach
the river just behind that mountain. Aud
there arc Indians living in tho group, Ut which
it is the highest, whom I wieh TO visit On the
way. These mountains are OF volcanic origin.
and coon we come to ground that il covered
with fragments Of Lawn The way grows
rough. We have often to cross deep ravines,
tho heads Of the labyrinth Of cal4ons that rnn
into the Grand Canon. It is curious now
70 observe the knowledge Of our indians.
There ia no trail but they know-erery gu1ch
and every rock- have prided myself on be-
iLg atfe TO grasp and retain in mind the
topography Of country, but these Indians
put me 10 shnme. My knowledge is general,
only embracing the more important festures
OF region. that remain "a map, engraved
| on my mind. But theirs is particular; they
know every rock and ledge, eycry gulcl and
canon, and just wlere to wind among thcse
to find pass, and their knowledge ID liner
ring. They cannot describe country to YOU,
but can tell you all tho particulars Of a route.
| have hut one poney for the two. and they
were to ride turn about, but Frank, tue
larger. Eidcs. aEa Shuts, the one-eyed. bare
legged, Me1ry-faced plgmr, walks and points
the way with slender caue, then leaps and
bounds ACROSS the shortest way, and sits down
on rock and waita demurely until We come,
and always he meets us with Jest, his face i
| rich NINE Of funny sm.les.
.. A. duak We reach tho water pocket. It Ia
in deep gorge in the flank Of this grea.
] mountain. During tho rainy season the
{ water rolling down the mountain eide plungee
:. over preeiricc, and excavates deep tasin
in the eolid rock below. THIS basin. hid fron1
the Gun, holds wnter the yea< round.
Il Sept 16.-This morning. while the
! men arc packing tue animals. climb iftlt
mountain near camp TO obtain v.eI nf tht
0 country. It is hinge pile Of volcanic tc3ria'
I loose and light as cinderz from forge: The!
d give way under my feet, and climb viii
great labor; but, reaching tho summit AMI
j; looking 10 the southeast, see once mora The
4 lAby1inthe Of deep EoEEes that flank thi
4 Grard Canon. In the multitude cannot de
3 tc,mine whether it DO in view or not. Tht
7 | memories OF grand nnd awful months spen
= iu their deep gloomy solitudes come mp, AMI
!: live that life again for time supposed
% | before starting up. that / could get q goot
D view Of the great mountain from this point
y but it il like climbing chair to look At
). castle. wieh to discover sone was By Wluc
~ it call be ascended. Is it ls my intent to 60 t
n tile su1nmlt before l return TO the settle
% ments. But there Is cliff near the summit
;s and do not see the way get. Now down
r 60, sliding On the cinders, making them Eattl
g and c1ang.
Y The Indians say that To are to have shol
n nde to-day, aud that we Will reach au lutla
s6 village located by good spnng. onI way
Vt mountain II We pass it 10 the left: Up ~
"a down We 50 ACROSS deep gulchee and the fral
n. ments OF lava clank under our horses hoott
,c uow among cedars, nov among pines. ~
"a now ACROSS beautiful monnsaln-s'ue s'a1e
I'd ~ O'CLOCK va descend mic 'ose's ,al.t
ne there is little water il the upper end Of
IS and sometimes the Indians We wish to lad a
IN encamred here. Indian :" Frank rides on
Of find them. and to say that we are friend
as They would either run Away or propose
:, fight ehould they see Us coming. without sas
. epeed and shouting At the top Of his roic
and apay in the distance two Indians scar
perirg up the mountain side Ono stops, Il
other atiil goes On, and is soon lost. VIC ri
up, and find Frank talking With the ono ri
stopped. It il one Of the ladies resident
these mountain glades. She is evidently ps
inr the taxes Godiyx- like. She tells rs III
T. her people are at the spring. that it Is on
III, ] two hour ride, that her good master has so
I'd On to tell them we 1ts coming, and that she
rh. harvesting reeds.
'sa We cit down to eat our luncheon. shase
Is, | then on we 80 over 3 divide between II
he rounded peaks. send the party on to I
in / village, and climb the one on the lett: y