The New York herald., 1870-09-18


terials and How They Are Made
Up-Hints About Champagne.
PARIS, August 81, 1870.
There Is no denying the fact after cool exami.
hation OF the fortlcations Paris and the fashions
really have got into very critical position. Some
OF the old gentlemen left here maintain that the
French inside OF the capital will never get out again;
that the Prussians outside will never get in.
As to the new dress styles. people turn up their
noses at them as much as If they belonged to the
imperial family. 1t ID not that the fall styles
less charming than those OF preceding falls, but
they are fallen TO such condition that there are
proper names for them. Fashion says in her equivo
eating way that she is up to her neck In lint and
bandages and can't be asked to christen female
clothes with all the male uniforms on her hands
buttons, CATERS belts, &c.
The truth is, Fashion is waiting for pile OF victo
ries wherewith to name the warm suits now ready
for morning and evening wear. She is looking for
ward to ots'' OF brilliant actions round about the
Ardennes-a bakers dozen at least-a dozen which
means, as your readers may know, few over ones
due. All If the French could but come in for wnat
Is their DUE without any supplement at ALL and the
Prussians likewise, am one to say they would both
have enough.
cannot see why Fashion is puzzled for appro-
pirate and patriotic names People can be very
patriotic without exactly knowing where their
'.patrie s-a case now under general discussion at
Berlin and Paris; and clothes can be named without
rousing susceptibftttes or by touching vlcinitles
that appear ltgous. The Prussians say Alsace does
not belong to France; coat need not take the
name Of any locality down Alsatia. The French say
the Rhine does not belong to the Germans; 1t has
n n q ha
There are plenty Of other suggestions quite agree
able to both nations. There are all the pretty
names Of things used In the manufacture Of explO-
slons. One or two demonstrations will explain my
idea to its full extent In eItens0. There Is that
pretty, new outdoor Jacket made Of soft velvet
cloth, loose sack ornamented with revers OF vel
vet and buttoned down the side, generally in the
lions name shades and iron gray, drab or dark olive
green. It is a very warm material and warm
make. 1t could be called dynamite" The new
sailor-blue silk lapis, which has black shade in
it and does so soften down, could be called
"dualine." I should say the very becoming
suits Of Scotch TARTAN which so ncendary. could
be called fulmi wool. The prettiest are Of very
light cigar shade, have white hounces which are
bordered with woven bands Of claret and darker
cigar. Fringe is also woven round the founces,
natural ornament which can put up with any amount
Of tumbling and squeezing, things every woman is
prepared for In troubled times Picrate should be
the name OF the new low gentleman's beaver. La
dies have only had TO stick two feathers, a black
and lavender one, on one side Of the rim, and roll
up the brim lined with black velvet to make the
small chimney pot knowing murderous head
piece The 0glycerinen should be called that
very elegant costume sent to Trouville, where IA
vored beauties Of nigh life who have neither chill
dren, brothers. nephews nor husbands at the war
now assemble.
1t was q dove gray and turquoise blue, striped;
the material was gr0s grain. the gray stripes were
the petticoat was bordered with a deep nounce,
headed by two pnils. The tnIiic was all gray gros
Graln l9oped M Nv with tn wide revers lined with blue and
was also plain gray with square basques, and under
with silver; the revers the sleeves were blue as
well as sash Of loop bows.
The undersleeves were lace mousquetaire cuffs Of
fine muslin and valenciennes; a friu OF the same
waved down the walstcoat en- ja6Ot, and formed a
run round the throat.
HATS.
The hat to wear with this style, which is the very
latest, was gray velvet with high crown The brlm
was turned up on one side la Louis XIII. and lined
with blue; blue ribbon fell over the chtgnon be-
hind, and turf of blue feathers decorated the left
side. 1t stood upright
This style Of dress is so much in favor that the
richest velvet ana grOs grain stripes have been
manufactured for the purpose. Caret velvet and
blue gros grain, the new lapis and sulphur, black
velvet and fire red are among the combinations.
HAT TRIMMINGS
The new sailors hat could be called "blocus,n in
honor OF the French feet, now keeping 80 very
quiet. 1t Is generally brown straw, with brown
but it is never worn with anything but seaside tar tar
tans or watering place costumes
Scotch and Madeira work are in great demand for
velvet dresses, and nantes Will be made crepe de
chine edged'round with very handsome fringe, gul-
pure or black Spanish blonde.
Talking OF black, all the ladies of Lunevile have
taken to mourning Fashion thinks 1t great mistake
on their part She recalls to me tnat in some parts
Of France the women have had to 60 down on their
knees and cling to the Uhlans duplicating. be-
seech1ng them to spare the villages, and she adds
that II these women were to loOk nice instead of
putting on horrid black, they would prove dOubly
eloquent. But that is Fashions logic. If distress
is not eloquent enough In plain cotton there is little
mercy to expect from humanity. l do not want to
see wretchedness and misery in silk and lace, If they
are In this attire, to lay hold OF my feelings any
tighter than did wretchedness en- negltge last
Monday.
A SAD PROMENADE-ALTERED STYLE OF LIVING.
thought would 60 and look at the state of
things within two leagues all round the capital be-
tween the forts and the immediate ramparts of the
city. A number OF Boulevardlers declared the
new works which Join all openings In the
outer wells were Of such light construction
kick them in. fell nervous as bachelors do some
times, and proceeded to the city walls II the new
mortar and brick stoppings up have time to dry be-
now positively affirm that no thick double sOed
boots know of will kick through, heels first, into
Paris. But Wnat dreary scene outside! There
were carts, Omnibuses, called family cOnveyances
with some reason, chariots every known and un-
known possibility on wheels stacked up to the very
top with household goods, furniture, bedding, and,
above this top, children and sitting with cats
meatsafes and birdcages waiting in an interminable
queue to move on. There this half mile OF house.
Keeping on vehicles had spent the whole night,
advancing five minutes ana stopping half an hour
or more, and that since news spread at sunset the
eve before that the invaders were marching on to
Paris.
"Wnat is this ?" asked Of some OF the busy work.
men.
''Oh, monsieur, 1t is the panic"
Yes, it was the panic. All these men, children
and women had abandoned their poor cottages and
bit Of potato field TO seek refuge within the vide
arms OF old Lurice The wealthy, toO-thOse whose
carts piled up with down pillows and cushions
had ned from the poor; none had stopped to encou-
rage TO instruct, to enlghten the terror-stricken
made my way as well as could, now under horses
feet then under their heads up to my knees In fne