, 1870-06-19
NEW YORK.
How the Empress and the Few
YorkerS Dress
Our Intolerable and Charming Des-
potism.
The Cost Of Fine Feathers.
Gossip.
[rRoN oCR srEc1AL CORRESPONDENT


c have been battling between tao opinions, "a
whether We did or did not admire vslencien-
ea lace On hlgh-colored eilk costumes, an an
ouneement comes to us from over the waters
lat Eugenie wears It, and the ve1ed question
sotued at once. OF courBs We like it. At
ae national celebration over the 7,000, 900 ap-
rovals Of tho ple6iscitun, the Empress wore
train and easaque Of that most exqui-
ito shade OF golden fawn which modistes
ill caeTez de Ia Reine tQueen's hair). The
Makeup Of this ras lovely The front width
TAs tier Of aounees, pinked at the edges,
vcr which foll tho fringed tunic train,
aised behind On each aide. The bodice q
leeps bAsque) Was wave Of Valenciennes-
The hat WAS the new Em,gree, or Watteau,
ziscd in front, which front was lined with
'rown velvet. and trimmed with ribbon like
ho dress. A knau brown plume was the sole
ornament.
Tho to.lttes dr. courses This season exceeded !
n beauty and costlinesa my ever before seen
It Jerome Park, or, indeed, In tho United |
States; 30 the jockeys SAY. One tollet Of |
great bcauty was composed Of ma11chite |
sroen postn de sole. The t,ain-shaped skirt |
wAs trimmed With two louncee the first doep,
the second narrow With a auted headins.
Plain bodice, with cost sleeves. Low tunic Of
white figured lace. long on each
eide, and in the Wa.toau shape behind,
trimmed with a bias band OF gteen silk
and hounce Of VAlenciennes This tu,jc Is
fitted to tho waist with belt parsed under the
Vatican plait. Tho fronts a1e open and
rounded on. White chip hat, lined and bound
with black velvet; green feather placed
backward, falling over The chignon: Another
$n.a
linz, upon m under+hirt Of foulArd the came
shade, trimmed With deep slightly gathered
1ounce OF cTeDe'tne, with double duted up
right beading. The over-skrt forms pun,
edged with nazrow duted f1ounce. 4 Sec
ona basque, much shorter, is plated in 1.ree
frons, and edged With fiuting Tho eleeyes
arc tight as far AZ the elbow, below which they
widen, snd arc finished by ! doep houuce and
fluted heading Tho FTu1lFFou costume has
tiers upon tiers Of tlounces On the train, with
front Of tho dresa fiat, and striped with inscr-
tion or lace. Muslin Jackets, with square col
lazs, veT low IL front and high behind. looped
at tho sides with ribbon bows, are in great
faycr with young 1slies. Another style is
Of 1nusiin or lace, with vaistcoat front and
basque back, open 1t the sides- Plated
collar and half-long eleeres, completed By .
deep aounce, and bows Of ribbon, Square
tchus Of muslin folds, edged with lace, to be
worn with an open dress, are extremely appro-
psiate and becoming for married ladies'. Bon
nets OF tolo aro composed of tulle f1utings-A
fine high dnting forming tho diaaom. Donnets
OF gray tulle aro oruamented with dutings
Of black and wllite lace, and gray feather.
A ecarf Of tulle fastcns the bonnet, and Is
either tied At the side or fastened in front with
a small bunch Of flowers. Tho new Aurerguese
hat, covered with feathers And fowe1s, il a
eancy, pronounce little Affair, worn By some OF
cur tlegGntes On the Jerome Park Grounds.
Several young Indies Of tho "Lsdy Gay
Spsnker" and "Di Vernon ord=r delighted
caps Of black velvet, corded with black
again. They aro made quite long, and otna.
mcnted with three bows Of silk or ribbon. The
fnTorite trimmings for thin materials are
1uchea composed Of strips Of silk savelled two
plaits. When made sufficiently full, these
1nches closely resemble the ostricL-foather
trimming go fashionable during the winter
The rspidlty with which the silk is ravelled
with The Wheeler and Wilson fringing needle
makes It a comparatively inexpensive az well
mcnted with aonncaa Of tie samey headed by
ruches Of cambzic, matching tho prodominaing
color Of the lregs. These ruches are either
pinked OF trimmed Oh each edge with nArron
Salenciennes lace. L desperate attempt Va.
| made by the mi1lincrs to Increase the size oi
styles, were offered the Ps,ssire, the Pamela,
| and the Ho1rlonnotsc-all much larger thar
the F1,ac'4on shapes. But their eill vaa en-,
Ploycd in vain the large bonnets didn'i
"take" any more than tho Groad,brimmed bats
which are turned up behind, Or in front. or or
one OF both eilea,-anyway. indeed, that vii
/ nf1oId tho least protection to the face. Para
sols And sun-umtrella4 arc trimmed witt
"lots " OF f1ounces and feather rucles- Thoat
for the sea-.hofe aze adorned with bows ane
stTeame1s Of contrasting eolors. A new 1eTer
but it has found no favor with people OF goot
taste. ..,
The famous trial Of F1ynt rfryus Cooliag,
has thrown food Of light upon the hitherto
sacred mysteries and misorics Of the toilet
The e!osbitans and eycr-inc.easinG demand
made BY seductive, but utterly eonscienceless
rlodisses and oottt,.rieres, are becoming posi-
lively alarming One casc, that came unde
my immediate observation, will serve to SHOW
the extent 10 which weak women submit Il
these impositions: lady sent to one Of on
most celebrated drsasmakcrs 4 Llama shawl
md one Of Chantilly lace, with the reques
that they should bo converted into sdcq1ies
The garments, which werc undeniably styGs]
and beautiful, were sent homo, With modes
little bill Of hundred and twenty dollars
ninety do9aIn Tor making up tho th1aad.lac
drcd and aity doli.ra new chantiliy saoqa
could have been bought, md tho victim voul
still have been in possession OF her shawl
intact7 lhc old sdsgs. Fine featheEs mak
!ino blriS, IL now rendered, am quito will
ing TO confess that an Just nhAt my clothe
mako MOAN acknowledgement made ever
day; sometimes in woris, but ottene
N the deeds That speak SO muc
louder. The truth is, dress ha
become one OF the tine arts. and SO Absurd
critical is the taste in such matters that til
cnect OF really pretty costume will ba lost
aud the Tholee Get;up condemned, bcc.uet
below regulation length. Imagine th
amount Of elo4uence worse than wasted i
the phlippics hurled at the tyrsnt man."
such harmless, manageable tyrauts as most me
hood; terrible aa An army With b.1
as sucking dove beneath tho han
OF faith. And, all the vhile, we, Ii
sorosistela' own familiar friends, arc tho sui
, iccts Of dcepotism moro absolute than that (
etorning breeeh-es, let them bring the
heavy aftillery,-1 believe infantry practice
ignored in their tactics,-to bear upon thos
, despohc women who charge forty dollars for
bonnet worth ten, and who, upon the fir
word OF respectful inouiry Or remonstrsne
and condcscendiugly inform the voul,
,, nothing; msd.mo pays 70, s tha s.v,e T.
Wouldat delight in tho annihilstion Of II
, ! little wretch who swccpo her eix-5ollsr-s-yn,
blsck s;1k train so rrsrefpIIy into tbc aie9s1
patlorp wbcre yo11r humbjc uerTant ats IN .
tntenae state Of nersniration. On tho edge Of
hIne ss.;n fd,,ie,iiI tTinr ~ thinF Of : svn
, nT1, for dyess-,nslinG mot .rinc n n.e th
: ynicsr wnrI1 70 70 ans3,st neraon Wouldn1
: e;o1tv %oII ~ ~ nour fot .1.ol ;nt, bar ~
~ ;m ny ~ i, ~ S.a;,% ~ Hi ~ M n.s,a. ,
tho Rsros;;a. ~ Snr d,r,nt- - ch,tea fer+S.a
! ,ioi,,rs for .,st;nr. % paf,no;.e ~ ~ ~
mora thst eost ten md ~ rl,e1, thn nr;cc NJ; ~
Iii e5.s If.a koss te' wau <a e