New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-06-04
THE FASHIONS.
SUMMER STYLES FOR MEN.

quiet recognition Of that idea For several years past
the governing OF mans costume Has been siouch
"A tone which insidously gained dominion under Spe
cous seemngs Of comfort availability, and, most decs
i've Of all, English example There was, to be sure
certain generous abandon and careless freedom |
about the loose sacque coats, baggy trowserS' |
and squaro-toed boots, but there could DC
no elegance Apollo himself, with all his soft, majestic
beauty could looked in such trappngs nothing more
nor less thana wandering fiddler. The ouch with its
enveloping DISCUSSES, its rough, harsh materials ana
studied awkwardness, is style which should never De
popular among Americans who have kind OF TRIM easy
grace about their fguresa grace which ought 10 nave
full expression Fashion always taxes extremes AN" III
escaping the SLOUGH drifted into an undue SUN
ness From the large, loose pantaloons which required
the support OF erinolne, Monsieur Delamode raer'u
his anIbuatory members into hideous garments when
fitted extremely like second eutcle. Andthus acco-
tered poHt derce Odder vision might be iouhd save
those plump little skinned monkeys Whereoi INC
ronancing Read raves. For while these detorihues
were endured-we had sensible tyrant IKE Chares
v To bansh tight brooches by edicts, no hveiy sast
to lash them into ribbons. But as tho coat ana waist
coat gradually took on easy and beautiful forms the
trowsers followed in their wake, and we have costume
certainly the simplest and most graceful since the ReVO
luton. The idea which now rules uumphahUy III INC
province OF masculine attire is natural slinpnciy
our dress has a dashing lightness freedom ana ease
about it, Our garments loosely but perfectly, without
snperuity or restraint all the artistic curves ana hhes
of the figure are preserved and the greatest adronesS
is shown in developing them. There is simple elegance
about the coat OF the which Is due chiefly 10 us
fidelity to natural form.
American fashions mostly devised at home, with
slight attention to Partisan models The Courtiers OF
Costume" I'm Paris club of 20 who have their mead
ouarters in the Rue ViUienne, and employ many
artists II is through these gentlemen that the caprlccs
of the hour find expression In the matter OF ssestoh
we are gradually emerging from under English tuage
and holding more and more firmly to the French us
pleasant thing 10 realize that Fashion begins TO accept
the dcta OF Art and that taOrs are no longer guy
of blind adhesion to fancy. The fashionable coats for
tbe ordinary uses of life are the frOck Of the DOray
tyne anthe acquete with the collar quite square Ill
front andhe apels rolling low, to be joined ny Single
BUTTON The frock has but two buton-holes in the
apes and is fastened by two three, and four buttons
The jacquette is often fastened by a strap OF
the material and two buttons, very pretty and conye
nent style, and specially suited to those trim, agile
youths of ncipient wisdom who arc Glorious DER all
tbe lila OF life victorious when they find themselves
clothed in new garments All morning costume Is long
wasted while skirts of moderate and natural length
Set.e and silk facing still fashionable and me- mar
row silk braids are the inevitable eagings Buttons
"the rocks perling the bark OF manly temper Tic
oronzing button the assisting BUTTON the hreling but
ton the button without compassion and without
buttons are of sensby moderate SIZE and for promenade
and sncss should be covered with either the materla
OF the coat facing Our young extremists nave ioi
some time INDUCED in kind OF insanity Whlch tioy
called the Egyptian cut Of figure Into the shoulders
of their coats were inserted pasteboard and harclo
paddings which broadened, squared and raised the
shoulders in a way which might have been Egyptian
but was certainly not graceful In coming back 10 the
natural these denominations have met their easy DOOM
The shoulders may wide possible, but they must
be sopng in obedience to the acknowledged model Oh
the American figure. Saeque coats are ntte Worn OK
cept the very short for office and sporting Ihese
are of velvet Sea Island cotton, or OF tweed showing
twill on the surface and generally made from Scotch
mountain sheep wool. The bagginess and devil-may-
care air of these sacques ought to Danish them rom
mortal vision
Shooting and fishing coats are what Anthony Tronopes
herones would call "jOly" with their dashlng care
less cut their manifold pockets and their convenient
straps. English cassmeres and fustian either corded
or plain are the sporting materials. Delamode is very
"olly indeed with his shooting suit OF darkgray cas-
simerc his full trowsers plated the knee his brown
leather leggngs and CATERS, and his buttons all over
| him Bod Robin is nothing in comparison.
PanaloOns OF easy and graceful size ana shape'
They are generally full without Obscuring the shape of
the beg, aud out over the foot with more de-
cided sweep than Old. For negge they have plated
to and taper regularly to the instep Checks and mix
lures are less popular than delicate hairne stripes
of a little darker shade than the back ground Side
bands are still in fashion, but must not be very wide
| II
disguise uglincss, the pau1aloon OF the period Is
decidedly adnsrabe. ThsYe is a deal of char
| actcr in a pair Of wellmade pantaoons
Waistoeats remain low and are made with and without
.eolars The handsome rolling collar always gives dig
Unity costume while the colarless waistcoat appears
| unfinished. The double breasted wastcoat IL rarely
-seen late ane four buttons the STANDARD
nunhsrs. Wastcoats to match either coat OF
pantaloOns with equal fleet Promenade coats OF fine
dark-hlue brufdclot, almost black, always eegan
y and becoming. There ia no color more universally be
l. comn.; than ttn dark blue suits of light era!
|, goods bound with nscrOw black braid are sOmewha
l. worn, Out are 700 prontnce.
I A fer sustf white flannel and linen making bu
-dont promise to be very popular. with the advent
light airy wOIlen gos,lsdelieate grays drabs, pearls
and oil, 1es-the reign white began 10 wane 1t is
after All, tit fI only the two most pronounced types
L pers0Htel-thc fashinI brunette and the sentimental
\ blonde of blues9yes ana silky, faxen mustachc
Duplicates a; nearly all sufrs in wool are to be found
in linen and cston and complexion need be at los
| for n proper IDstch in Summer goods
Full dress has but few variations The darkblue Goa
with bright buttons is firmly established, and is
10 he dslsdged1y any 0i fogyism. 1t is much
as is the back a ceuinry's rule-perhaPs even
The adventurous unknOwns who introduced this costume
have sunk into otscury under crowd OF imtators Al
az escape from the somber ugliess OF the black IL il de
lghtfuy refreshing. There's not enough richness and
variety evening costumes, and almost any innOy
tor in these directions is welcome It's irrational and
absurd that should monopolize all the oveiest
dantiest fabrics and the brilliant cOrs for even
ing 1t is said that during the past in Paris
several gentlemen Of society attempted the revival Of
the lace rufes at wrist and bosom. and were partially
successful. When with these ruGies, which
would rufile the feminine soul with delight
come back for evening dress only, the sla 'led
satns and jcwel-starred vclvets OF great Eliz.,s
time, may look for picturesque beauty
OF ensemble that would make every ball and reception an
artistic joy. In cut the lapel OF the dresscoat rolls
nearly 10 the bottom OF the waist in front and the
shoulder and side rather sharply curved as is