, 1870-03-20
"REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL.
From Verona to Munich.
A Day in Munich
SYSTEMATICALLY.


train, or Whist does duty for one In Germany; !
now skimning along the edgo OF aPfecplce,
anon sailing through the air on invisible tres
tlos. Then sh1il1 note from the engine, and |
ne plunge into da1kncss. The fanks OF the !
echoing bsck, in = hundred notes, |
the ruut1ins Of iron wheels. The Light c7eeps |
in at the windows, and We are soon ont in the |
sunshine. The difference in temperature |
from the plains around Verona WAS
sery great, and before long brought ont my I
railway rug and orescoat, took sip Of aqua
rlr, and, lighting big Cabanas, settled down
in \ corner to enjoy The scenery. As We left
Italy tho vegetation lost it's freshnosa, the treoa
seemed stuntcd, the flowers less brilliant in
color the landscape grew wilder, h1g gh rocks
gullies scanned the mountain, and bold ridges |
marked the view few houses, which at last |
altogether. This scenery grow
every n,omcnt moro savage in character TIL
we reached InnsrTuck, the capital OF the
T!rol- The descent Of the slopes into the
riains Of Bavaria vas accompanied by tran
lition to warmer temperature. The pirtur-
esque costumes Of the T!rolese disappeared.
The quaint drcss Of the Bava5ian pelsantry,
and thci1 broad, heavy, honest German faces
lined the whiting rooms ut the stations Big,
swasgeriEg Eayarian cavalry soldiers, With
sAouldercd mazket-wonen, with enormous
baskets Of eggs and provisions weighing down
their heads, developing their incipient goUre,
which in the elder women became u hidcous
Disagreement Rastian gentlemen, going to
shooting suits viii, smart eoeks .feathcr II their
hats. English and American tourists over.
Nhc!,ned with luggage and large families Of
email and helpless children, together with
jaunty French oo","is-c2sa9r'rs; al hho7.-
KS oas zsssass ;sssn 'fa"a aa aaEea1 SF 8ss
arriving out OF breath, is hastily
SLOWED in compartment With aix seminary
1,ricsta, and looks Like an enormous turkey
Eohb1er, cooped up with half dozen rnyens
Iia red faco, aat.ened against the glass, looks
etoldly out on the crowd, xnd keeps up tho
dignity Of the Established Church, n that posi-.
ton. TO the utter discontinue Of PApists aud
Dissente1s. 4 changing, banging, hurry ,scu5ry-
We thump over the cross-Eails, into the big
station ii Iunich- Hg-bel1ied. beer -drinsing
& her Ind Il oTcr the elobe. Tbs 'iAdlar,v
ssyicsoria Hotel" and "yeihr Iahreszeiten,"
are ali recommended, in stentotian tones, By
their respective adhercnts. The "VeihrTAh-
reazeiten," or Hotel Of the -Four Seasons. is,
beyond dispute, the best hotel in Munich, some
Say in Europe. It Is most .oxorhitant IN
It'll ecale OF prices, but its wines are excel
lent and its cooking not surpassed even in
1aria, or at the "Erevoort" ordered supper
in the public room. and, after bath and the deli
cate operation Of shaving, descended to large
dining-room-splenaidly Lighted; NY own oou-
cert was Ibid On q little corner table. Tho only
other people in the room we're come Germans
3leTdti N1o madc noise enough in their polem-
ica1 discrssions to awake tie saven sleepe1s-
There we're discussing, not 80 much serious
things as trivial things, in set1ous manner
and might he c!assed among tho sdudns OF their
nation, Hho would e1prega tho fact OF mon-
Keys showing his tail tho moro tho lIghe1 he
climta By, "1he higher amembe1Sof tho simian
family ahce1ds the more lie exhibits to the cas-
ua observer that necessary appendase which
h9 esas 9f ai as the pfso'y sy,Ss to tbs st hi
O'Clock engaged ii savage discussion
az to the origin Of mon and women, in which
tho Book Of GencsiH was discussed in way to
mako the hair bristle on the s:lp Of New
England divine Long after ha4l retired their
yells rose through the ceiling to disturb my
mon origin, and those who mako 1t an especial
study, III one general anathcma-
ILz1 only twenty-four hours to pass in Mu-
nicl, and its attractions aHarl subject FOR a
months inspection. Rather than hurry through
dozen museums and collections, resolved to
fir upon ono and enjoy it, ~ those thiags only
can be enjoyed, 4. leisure. My choice was quick
u made. As 1prefez ststuary to painting
probably because there is less Of it in real life,
t. SETTLED hs dnos t. asSss' my tue few e.a2os he55s
Of the pinatotek md its contents:
7 accordingly entered d1osks, and arrived
there after short drive Its e1terior is fine
il stands opposite the Penatotak, and is is one
ot the buildings that have caused the Munich
e1ers 10 fondly call their city tue modern
III much 1idiculo on the heads Of its devoted
buIghe1s as smother city has attracted in Amer
icA by 6imi]al protensions- BsuaEk, indeed,
ahou,inates them for their irrepreasible Aus
i1ian 1eaningB and j. reported, in ut OF spite,
Eava1ian is link between the Austrian and TIC
brute-" Though their city be called an Athena
its lower clAsses have much better clAime
to lie called Ioertians. They are as dull
heavy and holselessly stupid a. my eomnnnit,
ever came in contact with To return to tht
Glyptotuk: passed there several houru, ant
most enjoyable they were. The Juno, the eel.
eb1ated Apollo, md tho matchless - Torso,
which dihfgured 1a It is, impressed me, Afte
the LAGOON" more than any piece OF cl1s
cl1ed marble have ever seen. It is STOPPING
gTaec, ard though, as its name indicates, tht
head, aHms, and the lower part Of tho leg.
AAyc yielded to the rayagea Of time, Whist 70
mains il 30 perfect thst the iln.gination alont
supplied the missing parts, and shows US ths
thing ~ it is the poetry Of form embodied;
crn chisel has committed sacsileg'
to it's OWL dishonor, and the old Greek nee.
feel no additional pangs in that Hades tn viicl
the generosity Of modern theologians l,sa con
signed him. It stands in the centre OF = larg
marble hall, surmounted by eEylight Thong
ignorant Of such mAtter1 myself, I could see thl
il waa disposed to the ve1y best advantage, an
that judgment aud skill had been 1t work /
the management Of light, There it stood, 0
its simple black pedestal : thing Of eeaut
more precious than tho Eohinoor.
There il also one room devoted to statues q
Greek war1iora, and they adorned tho pedcs
tails in every postum, Lying, retEeating, stand
ing, charging, with tho graceful Gsecian lelme
and shield. fhe siese Of Troy monopolizet
hsn 1e ,1sxao sonn and front tho hiaS bSS.ars
itnages- The celebrated Apollo is coloss,
figure, uajestic certainly, and q maguiaceu
piece OF sculpture, but it could not moyo m
Ike the g. Torso" Indeed, in every ga
lt1y OF collection hayo ever been. there
Ie sass oi e Ess o6s'tS IN tSe HeVre
lave passed by the finest painting OF Ruber
and Aaphacl to sit before tho picture Of Muir
lo OF tie two angels bringing food to s.. Tot
III prison. St. Peter, though the princip
tigur., impressed mo but little. only sau Il
two figures in the background. WAS yol
young IT the time, saalis twelve, Ibelicv
but cannot describe the sensation produce
1watchcd the picture, thought Of it. d1eant
Of it, loved it. I an not cortain did not C,
little over it, and when shortly. afterwasd,
sweet faces often brought me a consolation Ii
to bc derived from lol1ipop OF gingerbread q
several trying occasions.
! bought some photographs Of gema anon
the collection tyou may be su1o the Torso
WAS among them, and left the gallery vel
stay in Munich As was tired, after fo1
houln' walking, hailed drosky md took
short DIVE in the Ludtci9cl4&- Every roy
residence has l.ts. tackled to the end OF i
name, and, with due respect to al irnperih AZ
royal pezsonagea, it Is in many cases reg1ett
bF appropriate. The grounds are bea,
tifully laid out, and were crowded vii
the notahEhes, the Home yos1
nal loves TO call the elite Of Munic
There were good many carriages Some
did Enslish thoroughbreds, which seemed,
some cases, to BE- little too mn
for them. SAW few pretty woxnen-no d
play to speak Of. The only reslly beautii
one I saw WAS well-known Berlin bel
whom l had bad the pleasure OF meg
TtihS- Tdhrezeite1, e,, su,de for Paris,
made her short visit, and WAS much entf
tanned ly her anecdotes Of Munich and t
Young hing, wllose peculiArihes seem to hA
no c1id. Youthful royalty seems to be tAkiI
"a s"o7t u'tr de7.ts Of late, which reminds mo
suggested by the Prince q Wales' lats GO
rdde:
First Fast y'ouA. ats singular the PIN
Of Wales Put on sueh = bold faoe before t,
Second. "ThAt surprises me ia, TINT
wasn't snore-ddunfea!
Tho royal Kit&elsbacI has not eu1latad Il
l'rince Of Wales in III respects. II report
true, he ueSeT got 70 faz.
I diped lste- -ri51un ef pdJutuns both une
ccptionaIle-uor did regret the Faleznian.
After dining, went to the opera and got
inGirestion listening to WA1ner's mus