The Portland daily press., 1870-05-25

HINTS TO TRAVELLERS IN SPAIN.-As all
travellers know,the impression strange coun-
try makes depends largely on what they see
first-on the way they enter it. To visit Spain
advantaseously it is best to so, as l did, from
France across the Pyrenees, instead of going,
as many do, from Cadz through picturesque
Andalusia to the less favored provinces, end
'ng with the dreariness and sterility of the
0''S''>-- No two cities on the Continent are
more inherent Jhan Paris and Madrid; and
such quaint and curious~towns as vittoria,
Burgos, aid Valladolid prepared me for the
strange kingdom had entered.
No person need be told when he has Cross
ed the confnts OF the French Empire. Hav-
ing done so, Jaw at once was among an
other people-amost in another world. No
more the vivaciois and mercurial manner OF
the Gaul greeted me; but in its stead the
grave and measured department of the Iep-
resentatlve OF half dozen races. The train
on whlch Travelled, through the creation of
French capital, seemel affected by the soil
and atmosphere of Spain. Its speed was re-
tarded; 1T was hampered with delays at every
station; 1t became the victim of endless for
malities that threatened never to entanole
themselves. discovered must undergo
certain acclmating process of mind as well "a
of body. The mood and bearing that had
served me elsewhere on the Continent would
not support me there. had found III at nre-
tended loss of temper and assumed violence
of manner are beneficial in France, Gefmanv
and Italy; but in SPAN they only defeat the
tourists ends.
Peninsular travel is favorable to one of the
highest Christian virtues, resignation. This
is less difficult to practice the moment one
oil
would have found his sphere in Spain: at
least, the need of exercising his characteris
tic quality. Ii the patient dre the strong.
they who have done" Spain should have few
weaknesses. l am confident that l have an
outward calmness and degree of self. disc,-
plne l never owned before l crossed the
Pyrenees. have had my patience tried all
the way from Pamploba to Cadiz, from Bada-
Joz to barcelona, and though may have lost
my temper, never advertised Tor its return.
Spanish officials are often very provoking |:
but they won't be hurried, and can't be bul,
lied to advantage. lnu-keepers hold as an ar.
tlcle OF faith that their patrons are immor-
tai, and that breakfast ordered at eight in
| the morning will answer quite as well at the
same hour in the evening. But if you use
even such mild and allowable oaths as Carat,
| Cdrdmba, or Vdga usted al demOnio you will
not help your. case. Show certain energy in
| pOliteness, perseverance or courtesy, and
| you will be duly rewarded.
l remember at Valladolid that, after order.
ing bottle of wine again and again at tbe
Fonda Universal, and failing to Get it in four
hours, sent for the host, and told him / sup.
posed his crowded house lit had but two
more visitors besides myself prevented him
from attending to me, but that if he would
not Keep me waiting more than six hours
longer, should esteem him the noblest oi
gentlemen. The wine came within five min
utes, and atterward had no further cause TO
complain of delay.
In driving about Burgos 1 could not induce
my caieserO to 90 beyone snails pace until
told him was in no haste Whatever, but
his mule was Walking hm:e IL bis IS sleep and
in fine style for the remainder of the after
noon.[Fron, "Jottings and Journeyinss in
Spain" by Junius Henri Brosone, in H@-
per's Magazine for June.