Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1870-09-01

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Turkish goat and As quite as handsome as silk.
IL will undoubtedly increase the favor for black
suits and dresses. which exists quite as much in
Paris as in New York.
Scotch poplins and English serges reappear
or will shortly, huge cases Of them having been
received, and a revival seems likely to take
are much worn abroad trimmed with black vel
vet, and constitute some of the prettiest suits
brought on by ladies who have recently return
ed from Paris. The checks are generally
IOken.
Japanese silks, which we have heretofore seen
only in light colors, and fine white and black
stripes, will be displayed this fall for the first
time in dark autumn colors and in mixed jasper
patterns. The prices arc a little higher in the
brighter, more decided shades, but the quality
is said to be better, and the appearance, es-
pecialy in the evening, very effective.
In plain silks, the gros gram and pure poult dc
sole take the lead of all other STYLES and exhibit
wonderful beauty and variety of color and shad-
The latest fabrique for grand toilettes is rich
satin brocade, blue, pink, or light green. Itis
only adapted to antique models, and strictly re-
quires the lace rufies, the powdered hair. and
the patches on the rose lea. complexion. In it.
self 1t simply looks like costly window curtains,
and is probably intended to suit the taste OF
show persons who caught the Prussan, and did
the past summer.
VELVET AND PLUSH
does not seem at first sight like peculiarly
fortultous combination. 1t is like another hue
to the rose, or Goals to Newcastle, or any other
unnecessary addition to an established fact.
But fashion knows no impediments in general
shape of hats and jackets-plush being the
foundation material; velvet the mounting in
cuffs, collars, revees and bands.
Piece ribbon and that for trimmings has risen
IN price twenty-five per cent. within q month,
and will probably advance much higher If the
European war continues.
GLOVES AND wooLENs.
Berlin fleece-lined gloves and hosiery, which
OF late years have obtained great vogue among
ladies in this country. are among other articles
which have already been greatly affected in
price by the war. The quantity in the market
Is limited, and a. it is exceedingly doubtful
whether more can be obtained the price is con-
stantly advancing. Merino gloves and cloth
gloves, IN high colors. are now being made in
large quantities in thus country.
Wooien goods are made in some new styles and
almost infinite variety. White nubias are in de-
mand again for opera and party wear and are
pret'ily finished in a lace pattern upon the sides
Wo"itn coats for children are very pretty and
cheap. and fulfil all the requirements for either
boys or girls until they are five years old.
AN EFFEcT OF THE WAR.
A singular effect OF the war il alrealv visible
in the arrival among us of French artists in
urees, WHO systen iZe their bus ness as m N are
accuhtOmed 20 DO whatever tn " undertake. aud
who therefore bring readiness. skill and adapt
ability with which our slip-slod method. viii
hnd hard 10 coTp'te.
Their stock in trade consists of a book OF de-
signs OF morning. walking. visiting and evening
costumes From these any lady can select her
ioT her. winch Will hs entirely different from
any thing anybody else ever had before. Tue
materials are suggested, but can he varied to
SUI her caste or her pocket. People require a
lurG purse, however, who employ a French
a. tist to design original costumes for them.
one OF our large houses has secured a very die
tingu n .! member of the foreign troupe OF male
orts>-n akers, and IL making to order genuine
court costumes, which are 10 he worn at repu9-
lcan entertainments during the coming winter.
No two are alike, and each one is absolutely
0S fapen and tr,4n . &C. 4
poem or picture. OF three evening costumes
in process or construction orr was of black vel
vel, yellow satin, and real point lace with gar
bltufe OF flowers; another of purple silk, black
satin, wide point upp.ique and ornaments of roses
and purple pansies; and the third o. white satin.
silver lace and talle. the two sides Of the over
dress entirely differeDt-one adorned with white
water lilies in dark leaves. the other with mara
bout feathers. The cost OF the first mentioned
was 81 600.
SHAWL COSTUMES.
"BeJonia,' or shawl costumes, were intro
dnced here last spring, and made a certain i'm
preston on account of their originality. Within
Anew weeks they have reappeared, and will un-
doubtedly achieve a brief popularity, as they
are simple, inexpensive, and very convenient.
The most Of those on exhibition are made of
pam gray mixed long shawls, which are cut
right across, one half serving for the skirt,
which is made up with the fringe as border:
the other furnishing the material for q half
hitting jacket, with wide sleeves and baslues of
unequal lengths, to which the fringe is added.
The skirt is closed at the back and laid in large
box pleafs. 1t Is open in front, and looped up
in three large folds at the sides over anv dark
skirt walking length, the shawls forming ONLY
a long upper skirt and jacket. Made complete
they cost only twelve to fifteen ollars. and will
therefore be rage with those who like some
thing "cheap and COSY" and are not afraid OF
seeing themselves repeated at every street
corner Shawls of white and black check, and
Scotch plaid will doubtless be utilized in this
way as the season advances.
ODDS AND RNDs.
Inc tunics OF buff linen and white muslin,
which have been worn so largely over black or
colored silk skirts, will be repeated in wool
Saline, in cashmere, and in alpaca, over silk,
poplin, and merinO, a. soon as the weather be-
comes sufficiently cool to warrant it.
The fashion L. as prevalent abroad as in this
country, but in Paris the tuDics Of white muslin
are worn over velvet as well as over silk, are
llned with colored sarsRet and bordered with
Velvet costumes will be distinctiyely elegant
the coming season. and those who cannot afford
the Lyons article will be fain to console them
selves with silk,faced yelveteen. The new cloth
an Old-fashioned style and cut.
We talk about ''novelties," but in reality
everything we get is resurrection Of some old
High bodies for winter house dresses are cut
with a position basque, formed by one large
boX-pleat in the lapel at the back.
Pointed waists do not advance very rapidly in
popular favor. The principal styles worn are
cut with deep point in the back, which springs
out over the tOurnure, instead OF laying close to
the figure as formerly.
HOPED skirts are q trifie larger, but have not
yet got beyond eighty inches.
New mixtures for waterproof cloaks are very
pretty. They include green, blue, and Hum
boldt purple. New gray waterproof clOaks
are very neatly and stylishly trimmed with
bands of the same cloth in darker shades,
stitched.
1t is the fashion now at dinner and evening
parties to arrange the flowers in small bouquets,
mass them in large, low glass dishes, and at the
close OF the dinner or supper distribute them,
giving one to each lady present.
JENNIE JUNR.
THE DOUBLE PRIZE FIGHT.
Gallagher ~. Meeker GALLAGHER