New-York tribune., 1870-12-03
THE FASHIONS.


II is evident that returning TO the shapes, In
bonnets Of the First Empire Madame Fashon ia quite
as caprciOus her fair yoares, for within month";
styles have perceptby changed. The fat crowns ana
petite bonnes with which we were threatened are fast
disappearing and the bonnet OF the period Is quite as
defiant and saucy the girl Of that name La RePuo-
hq,e the dainty gypsy and the Nilsson, are at present
popular. The Republic with It's low fat crown Is des-
tined TO have short reign, as larger frames and
higher crowns are already being made up. The
coquettlsh gypsy will undoubtedly be worn during
the season 1t "a excessively becoming. rich as well
as simple, in black velvet with ostrich tips curling
around the Orm the long plume floating gracefully at
the back over the braids universally worn. Hats
with very high crowns, the trimming having the effect
Of causing them to rear towcrs have been To
convey better idea of these rather gotesque hats one
must turn 10 tho oOmical wOodculs representing the
fashions OF our respected foremohers half century
ago. Fancy in fine, little woman, whose face Will ap-
pear to be the middle Of her body To be in proper
keeping waists are gradually becoming larger and
shorter; and though
Are eternal round Of P,isure,"
these too are succumbng to the relentless arbiters OF
fashion, while slight figures assume lean quaintness'
a suggestive voice inquiries "And our feminine Fal-
stats 7"
Flowers are not so much In bOnnets as formerly
feathers and the bandeau OF plated cOlored velvet
taking their place Handsome jet ornaments arc also
used on black velvet bonnets Walls OF the old style
have been resuscitated from long oblivion, made OF
black dotted or thread lace yard long, string run
through the hem and tied around the hat or bonnet
These are more graceful and more becoming than the
little scrap Of lace used OF late to faen the nose ana
otherwise dston pretty faces For an evening bonnet
we may mention exquisite gypsy OF white SILK ana
lace, upon which, careessy arranged, Ia q mist OF
snowy MarabOut, and few leaves OF aqua MARINE
moist. with spray. trembling drops OF dew
DO Of fhn hand
Strings OF cool pale Of the tint Of the foamcapped
wave suggestive OF seaside ramblings.
Regarding goods the variety is so bewidering
Il is difficult 10 enumerate the rich meange spread be-
fore Silks Of the heaviest brocade again bring back
memories Of cur foremothers At the late opening OF tho
palatal store Of of merchant princes where day
and evening all Of the beauty and fashion Of the city
boyered like hummingbirds in and around the enchanted
portals the superb display makes again wonder how
that extravaganza TO be supported which has become
o necessity, making the marriage OF convenience the
ultima thule Of existence. shaws at $1,000 founclngs OF
lace at S25 per yard parasol covers at the same price
each, were lightly tossed about by dainty fingers.
magnificent dress at $780, OF regal purple silk had su
perb court train of black velvet trimmed with chantily
lace and passementerie studded with jets. The train
could be ooped pleasure and the costume turned into
d walking dress.
Another dress had seven eight hounces edged with
scarlet velvet To this attached AN exquisite point
lace berthe and cape.
The coors most popular tho street the red plum
and the deepest tint Of rich Burgundy port and dark
brown Black is extensively worn. An extremely dis
fnqe toilet is composed OF black cashmere long over
skirt and basque caboratey trimmed with guipurc or
thread lace, and wide jetOrnamented gimp or passe-
menteric, as gimp is now universally called. where
rinp cannot be easily obtained, the garment can be
orpamented with brading in narrow silk braid, which
can be studded with Jets. Tastes vary between the long
oyerskirt and basque and the long pO0nase either Is
equally fashionable Satin trimming is entirely super
seeded by velvet In ribbon or bias bands. Many long
oyerrs arc open in 'front.' and made very bouDdnf by
loops al the back The polondiss very fun behnd win
position basque and closey-htting front, Is looped
gracefully back the hips drawing the front so tightly
as To present series OF wrinkles or folds rather dis
tressng TO one who dresses by line OF plumme yet Is
! entirely rege
Beautiful shades in veyeeen are exhibited in deep
ruby bright garnet plum color, claret &C. These are
very heavy silk finish, and closely resemble silk velvet
They make rich in the long skirt ooped lars
tcay over the silk pcttcoat though are not 30 fashion
able as cashmere Thick lch moss trimming popular
accompanied by heavy crimped fringe. Velvet bands
edged upon each side by fraycduches simulamefHnge
| box paitings Of sk ana velvet with bias f,athered
r,cbes. deep bias nouuces and two narrower ones
headed 10y double Of black velvet ribbons plated
! hounces with broad velvet bias bands; wide plated
bands ru1es, IN groups Of Ne' four and three
separated by bands OF velvet are some OF the prevailing
|
expensive sashes are still worn, hut are generally falling
into dsuse fan shaped ornaments of the dress material
elaboraely trimmed and extremely bouiiunt, worn,
ns well ns bOys aud OOped ends BOnnets and gloves
should always pond with the dress unless black Is
! worn-then gdmiNurc OF well contrasting colors Il
admissible Potion basqucs In black velvet are very
| fashionable. or velvet postilon can be added
| 10 n round waist Dinner costumes are very
! elegant IN two and three cOlors For example,
! a stoeLpTay silk. with bands OF violet velvet,
edged with fringcd ruchcs Of the silk. box
plated Hounce Of alternate silk and velvet az the bot
! tom The corsngc Stimulates violet velvet vest made
square with iuuny postilon basque of silk closed at
the throat with ruGes of point lace, the same style of
runIo falling over the hood silk skirts extremely
fun a the back Oyerskirts made open in front, hang
ing long and straight behind and loored az the Sides
decidedly the proper style for large stout Indies; those
Of more slender form should make two or three deep
pas In the center Of the cores nc the side On this sew
strings which must be fastened at the back; ye or
six plats arr allowed when large tournure Is worn
which will produce the folds the front above de-
scred. Plated dounces can bc Ornauened boy buttons
hearts Of velvet little frog, In jets. Some of the
tunes for visiting and evening too elaborate 10 adj
nit Of description. In expensive trimming the utmost
latitude Is allow ed. at the same time exquisite taste is
preserved
In furs there Is decline In prices. Seal skin takes
precedence OF astraLhan this season though the latter
s very fashionable yet Alaska sabcs popular and
cheap mink still holds it, place; long boos we'll
as short ones fashionable than collars; mnis
are quite small with fur elaborate passementcre tas
sels. Enanocd iewey has been revived from long OBJ
liylou. Diamond-shaped rings representing
the beautiful head OF some goddess with tiny diamonds
In a crescent on the brow, set sngy the neck
Ring earrings, and pin correspond. Enamel In odd
arabcsquo designs are preferred and exceedingly
pretty We seeing The last of buttOned boots. In
their place find boots cut lower than formerly laced
on the usep and still newer style laced nj the ankle
which cannot too much commended as giving freedom
aud elasticity 10 the nstcp, thereby adding grace