Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1870-03-05
European Correspondence.
Letter from Orrtiie d. Baker from Spain.
MADRID, Jan. I'd, 1870.

MADRID, Jan. I'd, 1870.
Preached this haven last Tuesday, leav-
ing Valladold, where had a very pleas
ant time, Tuesday morning at . O'Clock,
and reaching the famous Escurial, two
hours from Madrid, about 8 1-2 o'clock in
the morning This Escurial, which the
Spaniards call the eighth wonder of the
world. is in it, main object the burial place
of the Spanish Kings. 1t was built by
Phillip Ii, and is, as French Spaniard
said to me the other day, chiefly remarka-
BILE as monument of his sombre thoughts.
"Un monument de ces sombres pensees."
Like too many of the acts of Phillip, it
has its origin in his superstitions, being
promised by him to Saint Lorenzo if he
would grant him victory over the French
in the battle Of St. Quentier The victory
gained. the vow was kept, and the
present vast and magnificent pile was the
result. 1t takes its name from the little
village where it stands, and more desc
late spot, at least in this season of the
year, could not have been chosen. 1t is in
the midst of wide and barren plain, tree
less and UNMARRIED, with bold mountains, COW
cred with snow. limiting the wintry pros
pect. The building itself towers con-
spicuous. but severely plain in the CEN
tire OF all this desolation. built exactly
in the form of a gridiron, which was the
symbol of the holy Saint The immense
interior is variously into chapels and
convent and libraries. with score of open
courts, all adorned with fountains, which
were spouting away under difficulties, as
the ice formed freely in their basins. The
gardens where the nuns used to walk,
must have been extremely pretty in sum-
mer, dark and sombre beauty betitting
the abode of the dead. Adjoining was
the Palace where Phillip used to live hum
bly, and almost meanly and where he might
watch the growth OF his darling project
The chapel is solemn but magnificent, the
walls and pillars about the high altar be-
ing of jasper and precious marbles. The
sacristan lights cluster Of tapcrs and you
desceAd with him to the chamber of the
dead, which is underground, directly be-
meath the high altar. The long flight of
steps are of purest marble, and the walls
as you descend, are solid and shining with
rare jaspers and priceless stones. The
chamber itself is polygonal and massive
| Wit nd xyh hn 0f
the royal dead rise one above the other
like the berths in ship-a long. long
berth in Phantom ship. Though very
rich and stately can hardly agree with
the boastiul Spanard, that it is the eighth
wonder of the world. l stumbled on a
priest there, who spoke French, and he
took me into his study, which was in the
building, and where he had little Ii
brary containing, together with Spanish, a
number of French and German books and
one English, all of which he said he read
and spoke little. BY this time the Escu-
rial was finished and had four hours to
wait for the train for Madrid. which were
about as stupid rs hours could be. They
had no fire in the station, as a matter of
course. However, l got to Madrid and
went to that hotel where was recommend
ed. 1t is on the Main street of Madrid
and next door to the great hotel here
Hotel de Paris. The rooms here in Spain
unlike France and Germany, are always
nicely carpeted. The only drawback is
that they have none but Spanish fires, and
those are not built in chilnneys or in stoves
but consist of handful of Goals put around
a lot of ashes in brass dish about foot
in diameter, and this in turn inserted in
the hole of sort of big wooden dough-
this ornamental appendage is placed proud
ly in the middle of the room, and you
must put your feet on the rim of the dough-
nut. Fancy heating house with u warm
ing pan like that But in any house in
Madrid, not built within fifteen years. they
have no chimney at all. However. the
weather has been tolerable. Madrid is Il
well built. fine city, but very stupid out
side oi few things. 1he Royal Museum
contains a collection of paintings which is
unrivalled, perhaps the most magnificent
in the world. 1t contains Rubens without
limit, numerous and splendid specimens
of Titan, Tinteretto. and Paul Veronese.
four Or five of Raphaels master pieces.
the only fine collection OF Velasquez in
the world. and gallery of Murillo which
is only surpassed by Seville. besides u
host of names not whit inferior, Correg-
gio, Del Sarto and Da Vinci Of the Italian.
Mingo, Vandyck and Rembrandt OF the
Dutch, Albert Diiren of the German and
Poussin and Claude Lorraine of the
French. have been in twice but have
not begun to see it satisfactorily, and yes
terday they must go and shut it up be-
cause it was New Years. and Spaniards
are too lazy to do anything when they can
help it. They have kept it shut to-day too