The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1870-03-31

figured prints without bordering, red worsted
braid, serpentne and with rough surface, to
initiate coral, is used for trimming; or else wide
braid is stitched on, with colored braid beneath,
showing at each edge like piping. OF course
all worsted braids should be scalded in hot water
before using
The grotesque appearance presented by some
of our would-be fashionables in regard to crino-
line presents the very natural inquiry, Has
crinoline been discarded? We are happy to
say, so far it has not nor is there any prospect
of its disappearing. Skirts are worn smaller in
many instances, but the comfort of the hoop
skirt is far too great for 1t to be given up. The
time can hardly be remembered when some
thing was not worn as a substitute for the hoop
skirt, and with far less comfort. The coming
warm weather makes that article a necessity,
Though the fashions may change, it is generally
believed that this will remain in some form.
Those who like 1t need not be seriously alarmed
at the prospect of its discontinuance.
The bonnets, as far as the styles are decided,
are very much the same as those which have
been worn, higher than they have been, if that
is possible. novelty, in vogue abroad for car
riage wear, is capulet or veil bonnet. This is
merely bandeau over the forehead from which
falls a large VEIL that is not arranged by the
milliner, but is draped about the head by the
wearer This style of bonnet WILL no doubt, be
adopted here later in the season.
Milliners commend for spring bonnets light
split straw, yellow-tinted Italian braids and
white braid half-transparent, but thicker and
more substantial than crinoline straw. The
combinations of color used in trimming are
peculiar, and require an artist to blend them
harmoniously. Palest tints are most used, yet
black appears on every bonnet in the guise of
jet, lace, or velvet. Green and tea-rose color
with black is fresh, spring-like combination
for blondes; straw-color, pink, and black, a
Spanish grouping of colors designed for bru-
nettes; turtle-dove grey, rose, and black, a re-
fined choice; black, blue, and rose-color is an
eminently French fancy; while violet with
almond-buff and black forms an harmonious
contrast becoming to clear complexion with
good color and dark-brown hair, something be-
tween brunette and blonde.
There are many ladies of taste who follow the
foreign fashion of wearing black bonnets unre-
lieved by color For these there is unusual
variety this season in the black figured tulle and
black China Grape bonnets with jet ornaments.
The material is laid smoothly on q Marie An
toinette frame. The face trimming is of black
lace. Narrow ribbon strings tie beneath the
chin, and a scarf of black tulle or Grape droops
under the chin, and is fastened to the ribbon
strings on the left by jet slide. If color is
introduced at all it is usually plume of dark
shaded green cocks feathers, or a tea-rose
cluster.
model bonnet for an old lady is large
black Neapolitan with curtain band and close at
the ears, purple gros grain facing in front, and
clusters of Parma violets amidst tulle puffs on
the head-piece.
The newest thing in bonnets is the 'Capulet,"
introduced last season, and which has reappeared
in variety of forms, all partaking partly of the
nature of the veil, partly of the mantilla. The
specimens seen last season were arranged more
or less in the bonnet form, and required little
arrangement on the part of the wearer. The
Capulet bonnet of the present season, however,
consists of a veil arranged picturesquely upon a
superb hair coiffure, fastened back with a rose
or a spray of flowers and depends altogether
upon the taste and fancy of the wearer for its
grace and beauty. Of course such coiffure can
never become common; it is not even likely it
will ever be adopted to any extent by any class
of ladies in this country, the prejudice in favor
of some sort of bonnet being very decided.
There are many pretty spring bonnets, how
ever to which wells are attached, which will be
likely to become favorites; among others the
'Princesse." This consists of two puffs Of Grape
fronted by a band of small ferns upon quilted
black lace. A water-lily forms the ornament,
and square veil is attached which falls over
the chignon.
One of the most becoming shaped of bonnets
has a small, fluted brim at the back, and one
standing up from the front; yet so small is il
that they seem to be close together.
The plain diadem bonnets have appeared in
straw, but they are becoming to very few faces
Nearly all have fall of lace or lace vail at the
back.
The styles of hats are more numerous than
those of bonnets. They are universally higher
and many shapes rise either to an absolute point
or are creased down the middle. They are
usually turned up on one or both sides. The
fiat forms have almost disappeared One of thu
novelties in this line is the fancifully-coloreC
straw, of which many are made. Light blue il
common and other bright colors Some few
have been noticed, which are made of differen
and contrasting colors worked together
Flowers predominate in the trimmings. The
hats are generally very small. One of the new
est styles is a sort of hat-bonnet, very much lik
the small end of sugar-loaf with the top Gu
off. The pLG teau thus formed constitutes
crown upon which, towards the back, all tn
trimming is placed, and to the edge of which
square veil is attached. mountaineer hat @
white chip, or Neapolitan, has a crown fou
inches high and a brim with a wdt
of three inches. 1t is usually trimme
with flowers and bow of ribbon at the side
with streamers falling behind. 1t resemble
, somewhat the old Paritan masculine hat worl
in the days of the 'Mayfower." The best thf
can be said of it is that it is remarkable only fC
: its ugliness. becoming hat for some peop
4 is the "L'Imperatrice" of English Dunstabl