, 1870-12-19
FAAelEs AND FASHIONS,
The Never-E nding Struggle.
Emulation Among Women In Dress
and Fashion,
Costumes in Velvet, Satins, and
Silks.
Ronncts, Hats, Cloaks, and Jew.
c1ry..

Bonncts, Hats, Cioaks, and Jew
cry.
Friftrn for The Caieaeo Tribune.
Is II worth while-tha toiiing, and striving,
md working, which 80 eeldom end in win
ming f-tbe pain, and the fear, aud the con-
stant anxiety With which We rlise fair ediices,
only to lit down and mourn over their ashes !?
the ceaee1ess endeavor to outlive and outao
some other poor hurzyirg. Worrying moEtal?-
the constant Tension OF nerve and brain, In
gtaepirg some ignts jutuus that eludes our
coming ?-tle pinching and 4lAying to appear
something better than VIC arctic welr the
sobe1 OF royalty. while we plod along tho pie
beiau highway, dirty and toil-wosn7 Ia it
worth while?
Yea! II the end Justi1es the means: il We
can satisfy our still yearn;ug heatsa that We
have done the best We could-that, in reach
ing high standard, We failed through no
fault OF our own-then the toiling and hoping
il good di.cpline, and We have gained in
spirit Whist was lost to the dseh,
But, however much We NAV be benefited
BY the discipline, it is not that which we de-
sire or expect. II ia material good We are
striving for-wealtt, social position, honor
and we blindIy sacrifice principle and integ-
r1ty il they prove troublesome Affection,
friendship, social happiness, are tEzmpled
under foot, while We pursue chimera called
enccese. which ever lies before us IN the rose-
light Of tho future, bright and beautiful, but
which, when VIE reach It. too often proves the
grave Of hope and comfort.
Perhaps the most unhealthy emulation prae-
tised III everyday life ia that which e1lets in
people who have attained to leading posi-
tion in the world, and have just mouey
enough and pride enough to make them mis-
cradle. Their Ives arc one little round OF
Narrow schcmipg and petty planning to cir
cnnsent somebody else who has more pride
and more money TO- crafty it. They never
tako any comfort in their grandeur, because
that other somebody when1 they hate has
more; 20 they are eAten up, in the midst of
their apparent prosperity, by the demon Of
envy.
Among women, and especially among fash
iass to deplo1ab1e extent, aud it ID fostered
! By that inherent vanity which is the result Of
| Il long course ct adulation injudiclouAly given
ix man. Womau's physical wealness. her
early education, and hame training, ali con-
| tuce 10 this result.
The friendships Of wornen! They do exist,
rs every woman knows, but On what 4 frail
| structure arc they based! How often are the
friendships OF years sacrificed to b wosd-a
Whim, and they who were iusepatable become
strangers. PerbAps that il because Womeu
feel intensely, and il is only those We have
loved whom we can hate.
| The more woman thinka Of herself, tho
losr Amlab]e she becomes: II she is constantly
thinking, How do look" -tAm Ad-
mi1eai" "Am we'll dreseeds" ''Is this b.
/ &sx In So tr. SH- - nrnt
shilwreck. 4 vain WOMAN can never be ad-
mired. She may be fiattered, but when men
tl1tter, they lack respect, and whsu wom0u do,
they arc inslncere. And mAu Ia just Of that
preIudiciAl nature that If he thought woman
dressed to please him, he would find fault with
There is m almost un4osy strife between
1ibbcus and rage, and low few there are who
reach the golden mean. No woman has ever
been canon,zed for reform IN deess. A few
penitential rg that, instead of being sublime,
was simply ridiculous. More deserve to be,
We may Imagine. in the light nf future ages,
Botne apostle of dress who will recoucila the
c1psa md crown. At present, tue particular
rage Is for every woman to outdfee. the other,
! and excite worderment and bexllderment in
| the men, and win attention from them. 1t
may be Ill very we'll to take your ''walza
abroad In rusty, do1ly dress, an1 G1nect
your worth to win ,Ton no:ica. You will be
spubbe d and act aside for some inferior mind
whoee outward shrine Ia deckad In fairtr ta-
pestzy, who will ignore your e1istence. So.
you Zee, it iB your duty to look Ii pretty as
YOU can 10 dress with taste, properly aud il
keeping With your ltvee, aud to be kind, and
goot-lcmpe1ed,an and charitable to Other women
who have lees.
Fer, il you are rain. and eurercilious, and
empty -headed. your elegant dzsss will be only
= revelation OF your weakness.
THE BEAU MONDE
has given ua n surfeit of fashion lately, ii
hall and bridal. There il not thst variety Of
1infer etyle there would b. II the elegant
Iarisicnyes could inform us Whist to weat II
grande toilette, but It is rsther cur good for
iu.e 10 be dependent on homo tastea or Eng
1iBh htyiee, winch are heavy and solid. for Vt
can we'll do without tho fluctnating nothing
TINT have distracted MS 70 long. NoF. cos
. tunes are richer aud p'ainer than for sont
tine past. The numerous fouuces and fnlls
which have bu1lesqued the fem lie form divin'
are toned down to shapely skirt, with mer,
> bands Of ornament.
who has just returned from New Yosk,-th'
Paris OF America,-btioEs a feuuletton O.
. | winter styles, which sle ID rapidly transform
ing into legitimate garments for customers
.. Ooe OF the most elegant which she seut on
!, LAST week WAS wlue-colored elk, mado ~lti
lorg tran it was trimmed aronnd the bsst
Of the train With deep box.pls,ting Of th'
silk, which rolled on either edge to the dep.i
: OF two or more inches. This was put on viii
plain sp,ees between. Then ross Of velve
ees. used AS he.diag to this. l'hose .er'
! f4stened over the plsiu spacee, dniahed In
. t.ow and eudr just above. The ovesskiet cam
: down to this, ind was looped on each sid
!; with bow and ends Of the velvet Tho wais
= WAS yostillion basque with velvet vest. an
. deep flowing sleeyca. Beneath this. COS
. = lace. Tie neck aud threat we're also edge
. With point lace. The dresa vas OF the be-
aunlity Of silk Manufactured. as was also tn
= velvet with which it was trimmed The whol
:. price Of it when finished WIS Il ,000
= TWO VELVET eoSTrAEs,
= made at this came establishment. desey1
esreciel notice. on account Of their clfGsut
CT style. comsinirg. as they do, the wealth
~ ~ the IpA.eri.l with the tAsse OF the mo7ist
- The first was OF rich LYONS velvet, trAine
u skirt, made with an adjustable tou1uuee,
= produce l walking costume, and long, f.
- pefixsp ove1ekirt, feored hight at the aide
- ! and putting toward the back. To this vi
:. added n Moutpeueier basque. cut up in II
i back, with vest froEt. aud very wide, nawit
i sleoyss lined throughout win black tatin.
~ ! ply corl Of the satiu.
- The recoud was demi-tVAin for wslkiu
=. edged With n velvet roll. The ovesskirt "
s. s. laid IN three plaits on the hips, throstng d
y y entire fulness back. Tic front was a rath
~. ~ slerf. ronna section the back hung in fu
44% |
20 :. floor- A plating Of satin, hemmed on ea
~ ~ i edge, and f1illed through the centre. "
Il. stitched on around the ovcrskirt- This P1a
- - IpE Was three inches wide. The waiet Y
~ ~ a tight basque, with shtin vest, and drape
~ eletvts. The plxited eatin went aro mi I
T. - edge OF the waset and up the side Of vest =
= ntck, vaist cut low en- Pompadour. Slee,
- edged With the satin r1sitine, ~ were also I
= cest slcevce, which were 1ooee, to be omit
~ ~ at pleasure. 1t took scycnteen yards each,
- sS-irch velvet, 10 make tho suits.
~ "A mutt. hos, and boots OF velvet, cou1ple'
y. ~ the toilettes.
~ ~ Another
-. CEREMONY COSTUME
~ was Of da1k-bruwu gros gram silk. HaH
:. the lopg-ttained sEirt VAS cut in deep poiu
,,n- which we're trimmed with two biAs bands
.pe p velvet Ard fall Of knotted fringe. To t
~ Was added graduated douuee, put on
n uneven plaits, measuring ono yard iu tho b'
~ dat bows, without ends. TIE oy
20 20 ekirt consisted Of long b,
u, trcadths. very much dr1ped, and op
~ and rounded ii the eides joined 10 this y
20 20 . short squire vide breadth, half ~idth
III the material. This " 4s flushed al xround y
- pipirCs and fringe, and WAS connected "
70 the sids breadth By two Lows to match tht
,.f on the skirt. Those were placed one just
m low the waist: the Other on the hips, leAvi
~ abcut eix inches open between b2ek !
~ f1ort. The front was lett open up to point
~ bodice. The sleeve wAA den,i-ourerfe. I'D
sa sas with three points in tho back. and bows
II shoulder.
ele W A b!ue velvet dress WAS made with IT
~ and trained ovetsH.t OF bias elk, t1imu
- 57t