The New York herald., 1870-03-25
THE SPRING FASHIONS.
Opening Day i'm the Me-
tropo!is.
r rHE 1Arnsr STYLES
The Chameleon Goddess Arrayed
in Silks and Satins.
BONNETS AND DRESS GOODS

Tho votarles OF fashion could scarcely wish for
more favorable weather than tnat which smiled on
them ycsterday-the eyentlu occasion on which
large proportion OF the modtstes revealed for the
hrst time this season the sprtng and summer styles
ordained by their hckle mistress for the coming
season. Opening day is rather mythical period at
all times. as some OF the leading houses suit their
own convenience; and there Is hardly day from
this till the middle OF April which there ID not some
special exhibition Of fashions and in some instances
this exhibition Is entirely dispensed WITH Still
large proportion Of the modistes seemed by tacit
consent to select yesterday as the general opening
festival, ana consequently the stores were crowded
with fashonaby dressed ladies' all eager to inspect
the wonders promised them by the high prlestesses
OF fashion. The latter were arrayed in the
richest robes and most extrayagant trains ana
moved about with the air OF condescension aud dig
nifty becoming their station on such momentous
occasion.
There is not much change or absolute novelty In
the new styles. Bonnets are regaining their lost
popularity, al are also increasing In size. White
chip Is mucL sought after, and fowers form con-
siderable part Of the trimmings. The gypsy shape
Is In general favor, and threatens to replace the
fanchon The diadem is higher tnan ever, and all
have capes The cottage bonnet Is another
novelty and on some faces 1t has
charming appearance. This shape admits or
inside trimming and the indispensable flowers
decorate the dladcm and crown. Lace has passed
out Of general as material for bonnets, ana Is
replaced by crepe de chene and straw OF all kinds.
Notwithstanding the growing popularity OF oonnes
there Is much to be admired in the round hats OF the
period. Their crowns are higher than ever In
some instances having brlgand appearance. The
brims are also very broad. and not turned up
as much as before. For trimming many
OF them have wreath OF flowers en-
crcing the crown and trailing down on the
shoulder OF the wearer. Suits have not undergone
much change, unless In regard to still more elapo-
rate trimming OF the same material as the garment
itself Uniformity Of color is perceptble IN all the
new toilets. Some pretty contrasts OF black and
white, however, are In vogue and will be much
worn this spring. The material for suits is mostly
confined still to silks Of all kinds, even to small
checked and striped specimens OF silk. Nankeen,
fouard pique una white Swiss VIII be also popular
this season. For evening toilets lace seems to oc-
cnpy an important place. With two shaw!s OF this
material black and whlte-a lady can arrange
dozen different toilets. As for the styles OF evening
aud they depend mostly on the taste Of the wearers.
Nothing looks more graceful than q lace or cash.
NEE NEE shawl dl draped oyer over @ trained dress,
tanic fchu over short dress, but IN every
case uniformity OF color Is the rule. Short, loose
sacks and sailor jackets are already out, ana with
young girls they are sure to be fav0rite5 Among
the bewiiderng array OF bonnets and dress mate
rails on exhibition we noticed the f0lowing:-
NINE. Kallings mad a very handsome white organ
die robe with three nutinus and purngs Of the same
material as tue underskit. The Ovcrdress OF pale
blue silk trimmed with Organde and lace and deep
chenille fringe TO match. The panier was fastened
with bows on each side, and the waist was OF Or
| robe was white grenadne, nounced to the waist.
White silk. grenad,ns and black velvet were curl
l ously 1nterw0ven in the undersklrt. large bunch
| OF velvet poppies decorated the panier. A third
robe was striped SILK. consisting OF alternate
! over the Old fashioned vest. The jacket laps
| over, like genteman's coat, ana has the
! mated Dy its name The oyerskirt OF dark dahlia
formed q train and sort OF winged pannier, very
richly fringed completed this styisll dress Another
! novelty was black grenadine trimmed with fancy
O'Suiltvau Grelg had large variety and assort-
o very durable French stun called De Beige; also
silks, foulards, grenadines aud m0nars Of every de-
for travelling or the seaside White pques will be
more popular than ever this summer. Plain colors
seem to be entirely en- re0'e.
There were some very gay and handsome break
fast jackets at this house, embroidered In every pos
sibc pattern; Also balcony or carriage wraps OF
IN the first mentioned material, and was trimmed
with swansdown. There was quite an assortment
c wacns Tse aa sax N neys scarlet
the most distlagus kind. One-a black silk
one-had velvet vest, with Eiizabethan
trimming. very deep oversklrt almost hid the
ruffed underdress. Another SUIT seemed to be COM
posed Of series Of ruchngs hardly portion Of the
material being made up plain. row OF slnguarly
shaped rnies, each having the appearance OF fan,
surrounded tne nnderskrt; IA white n piqge @ dress
material. A white embroidered muslin dinner
robe heavily nounced, was ornameuted BY
from either shoulder met 1t the waist behind ana
fell In long ends down the back ana on either side.
dinner or carriage robe showed beautiful con-
trast OF black and white, the lace loances falling
over rows OF white fringe
Terry had some novelties In round hats. One
might be called tho Fra DiavOlo from the height or
Its crown and breadth OF its brm. This will proba-
ply become the rage, this summer as
to some faces. Another hat OF white chip
had somewhat lower crown, roll brim, and was
bunch OF French rosepuds. In q third the crown
was raised on one side sloping towards the other,
with heavy roll IN the brm. Buff ribbon was
ending IN streamers behind The edge OF the brlm
was set on by piping Of black velyet, and from
IN buncn OF buff and black flowers, and almost hio
by a head Of wheat which surrounded 1t.
Among the & speciaiitIss h we saw a at NJ Harns' was
short costume OF two shades OF mauye; the under
skirt OF q darker shade OF manve. made WIN deep
shade Of mauw crepe de chine trimmed with
crepe fringe; the oyeraarment to match both
skirts, Of q very peculiar and unique shape,
black silk, made OF different materials; the
anaerskirt , Of gros grain win VIII wide bias
called L'Abele, made entirely Of the new imperial
slik trimmed with Chanliily lace and heavy cords.
The speciality OF this house Is the poll de chevre
OF o beautiful shade OF yellow, trimmed with
bright contrasting color. The suits we navesecn
In THIS house, which are made Of light cOlors are
trimmed with white embroidered bands and crepe
de chine, which they have In s coors and IN great
variety.
l. In bonnets at this house we saw great many
changes from last season. They are somewhat
larger and inside trimmings are quite feature.
One was white chip trimmed win magnincent
fall OF lace. The entire front Ia composed OF full
wreath Of vOlets and q simple Marguerite at tho
side, which forms very unique and stylish trim
ming. Again. we saw black lace bonnet OF
very nigh and pointed shape, with deep jet points.
THE trimming Is q large bouquet OF peculiar shade
OF miQnonette, with Ivy leaves, forming handsome
trimming over the back OF the hair.
The novelty In round mats here il the "Erfgand"-
q white chip very high and pointed, trimmed with
two shades Of green ribbon, forming the side ,rm
ming. From the front Of the crown, dropping over
the bair Is an elegant black feather fastened IN the
front by peculiar oands We also saw q drab CHIP
OF the same shape, trimmed with a fail OF crepe
de crime OF the Same color and trimmed with an
SfA htSnh nj