Fayetteville observer. [volume] (Fayetteville, Tenn.) 1850-1966, 1870-03-10
Scene at Vespers in St
Peters.

York Tribune, at Rome, thus de-
scribes the vespers at st. Peter 3
at Christmas Eve;
Although there eoaId not have
been less than FIVE or six thou
sand persons present, they appeared
like handful in that vast area.
There was no rush for places, no
fierce surging crowd of spectators,
no frightened children, nG fainting
womee, but every enc stood, or
walked shout with ease, and could
see and hear the whole ceremony
without panic or peril. The
Fathers dropped in one by one, or
lin little groups Of three or four,
in full pontifieal costume, but
there was no formal procession Of
the Council.
The PapaI guards were arTang-
led in lines on different parts Of
| The floor, in rich uniform, and with
fixed bayoners, occasionally per-
forming certain evolutions, but
with apathy of movement and
depression and too mild man
nered in their whole being to be-
reckoned dangerous. They opened
reyerently foE the entrance Of the
| prelates, who in, their silken robes
of white embroided with. gold and
often sparkling with diamonds,
their heads covered with high
white mitres, and attended by
their chaplains or theologians, in
decerous black, presented cer-
tain dramatic, or rather dreamlike
spectacle, which it was not easy
to look upon as a reality.
The spectator who has been
accustomed to such exhibitions
only upon the stage, must be ex-
cused if he yields somewhat 70.
the force of habit, and is unable
to divest the scene before him of
the glamour of histrienic illu-
sions. Indeed, the whole life OF
Rome, to a visitor, even with
no excess of the Puritanic leaven
in his composition, can hardly ap-
pear otherwise than as q perpetual
masquerade, and in the midst of
so much glare, tinsel and spangled
pasteboard, and painted carpentry,
be almost loses the consciousness
of his own identity.
On this occasion, however, /
was recalled TO my senses by a
noble burst Of music from the
military band stationed in the
gallery opposite the high altar,
and presently the two waving fans
of ostrich feathers, inlaid with
the glancing eyes of peacock's
tails, borne on high ike flaming
banners, announced the approach
of the Chair of State, In which
the Supreme Pontiff is carried on
the shoulders of twelve men to
take his part in the gorgeous ps-
geant. | was fortunate enough
this time to pe within few steps
OF the procession and had not be-
fore seen the Pope so near. He
looked aged and decrepit. His
face was pale. or, perhaps rather
sallow, with a smile of habitual
benignity playing upon his lips.
The expression Of his features
indicated less sctivity of intellect
I-thanis shown his by usualportraits
There was an air Of WEAKNESS
about him, as if the cares OF state
sat heavy on his brow. | think
he gives the impresson of less Wig
or, less alacrity, than before the
opening of the Council. His step
is still firm, and his voice is clear
and sonorOus. He is said to en-
JOY excellent health, which with
his habits of temperance and
physical discipline, ! can readily
believe; but it is not 90 easy to,
credit the assertion that be takes
cheerful views of the action of
the Council, and is confident of
the success of his ambitious
schemes. After the entrance of
the Holy Father into the nave of
the Basilica, he descended from
the Chair of State, near the High
Altar. and proceeded to perform
his part in the vesper services.
The soft and solemn music ap-
peared to present few attractions
to the audience, which gradually
thinned out until only a small
number remained in the "groined
aisles" of the church, leaving the.
spacious pavements to be occapied
by the troops on guard, whose du.
ty was converted into a sinecure.
and here and there a group of
black-robed ecclesiastics who lin
gered as spectators of the scene.
1t was now nearly night in these
short Roman days, and / was glad
of respite from the glittering
show, without running to St Pc
ter's to listen to the 'Song OF the
Shepherds" which was to be per-
formed by a large choir at 3 o'clock