The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1870-09-28
THE FALL AND WINTER FASHIONS.
SILKS, 1AoEs, vELvETs, AND FUBs.


unprecented activity. Stewards counters are
strewn with beautiful new dress materials in
every conceivable shade and design. Among
the novelties are pattern dresses of heavy
black silk, embroidered the entire length of
the front and back breadths in bright colors.
The design is quite narrow at the top, and
widens gradually to the bottom, where it is
the width of the silk. The bodice, sleeves,
and sides are covered with small bouquets,
so perfect one might believe they had grown
there. Stewart has imported brocades for
evening dresses. The material is superb,
but is only suitable for women who have
reached the fair-and-forty stage, minus the
fat. The fabric that is creating the greatest
sensation is the Turkish brilliantine. It is
made of pure wool of the Turkish goat, is
heavier than mohair, and has lustre equal
to satin. Japanese silks are offered in dark
colors and improved qualities. Serges are
still worn, though the demand for soft all
woods in cashmere and d1Gp d'ete is much
greater. Full lines of superb silks in aliga-
tor grey, blue, and purple plum, peacock
blue, and the various shades of olive, are
shown for street costumes; price, Sc per
yard. One of the most at tractive of the new
materials is wool satine. 1t is an improve
ment on the cotton satine of last season, being
much softer and more durable.
ANEAT COSTUME.
Out of number of costumes shown by
special favor before the formal openings the
following are selected: :-Petticoat of heavy,
soft, lustrous silk, ornamented with a bias
ruff1e of black velvet, an eighth deep. Two
rows of heavy gimp formed the heading.
Long, upright bows of silk we're placed at
short intervals on the skirt, the whole sur
mounted by two more rows of gimp. The
overdress, marvel of drapery, had the effect
of butterfly with wings extended. Trian-
gular pieces of black silk, filed with whale
bones, supported the panier, and kept it in
position. The garniture of the caSaque was
deep fall of Chantilly lace, with q finish of
l)dSSe7n0nterSe in crocheted fern leaves. Tight
fitting coat sleeves with double fall of lace;
velvet belt and bow. The drapery of the
bodice was formed by plated band of vel
vet, edged with lace and pGsSementerie,
that crossed the front and fell straight from
the left shoulder at the back. The popularity
of the costume was the dissimilarity in the
looping, the right side forming half circle,
and the left falling in a sharp-pointed pep
lum. Price, $3.50.
The petticoat of another striking dress, of
superb black silk, had a straight founce, a
quarter of a yard in depth, laid in double
box-plaits, with spaces the same width be-
tween. Bands of bias black velvet, two
inches wide, extending from midway of the
founce to the knee, were ornamented at the
upper end with leaves, in pGSSementerte and
cut Jet beads, and at the lower ends with
crescents of the same, and heavy edge silk
fringe. The overdress, very long behind
was elaborately trimmed with laces. On the
back of the garment was a vatican of velvet
moderate in size, but profuscly trimmed with
full frills of the lace, with a narrower upright
lace for heading. Coat sleeves to the elbow
widening thence into a half flowing sleeve.
Price, $4O0.
street dress of olive silk was shown,
made with bias hounce of the same, three
81 laa avtn, IA L. l. l.
seams, the upright ruthe being lined with
velvet the shade of the silk. Five bias bands
of the silk, with narrow folds of velvet on
the upper side, crossed the front breadth in
horizontal lines, the ends being concealed by
reveIs of velvet the depth of the founces.
The overskirt was a short poplin of the silk,
edged with narrow fold of velvet, and laid
in triple box-plaits in the back. A pointed
collar of the same, quite deep behind, but
diminishing abruptly to the shoulder seams,
was laid in triple plaits, as was also the sash
A dress composed of different shades of the
same color is of Manila silk, with a pinked
founce two fingers deep, on the lower edges;
four narrow ruffles, two the shade of the dress
and two lighter, are dispersed above, with a
puff between. The Polon0is is of crepe de
cline, lighter shade, simply trimmed with
bias platings of the same.
Bands of fur will be largely used on street
dresses during the winter. costume of
maroon velvet, trimmed with double rows of
Chinchilla fur, is much admired for its ele-
CANT simplicity. Over garments of navy
blue, purple plum, and bOttle-green cloths,
of exquisite fineness ornamented with mar
row bands of Alaska sable, will be much worn
over petticoats of black poplh or heavy silk.
Round waists will be almost entirely super
seded by points and basque ends. The waist
of dress recently sent over by Worth has
long, sharp points in front and a position
basque at the back. a feature of all the
dresses from the best French houses is the
number of seams flour or fve) in the back OF
the bodice. Velvet will be more prOfusely
used than ever. Velvet bands, cords and
folds form a conspicuous part in most styles
of garniture. The result of this extraordi
nary favoritism has been to enhance the value
of the article, threatening to make it the mos
costly as well as fashionable caprice as the
season advances. A few ruffies and founce
appear on the new dresses but the maj orit,
of the trimmings are hat-a reform made im
perative by the rumpling and creasing inevi
tably caused by packing Sometimes
on opening, having much the appearance o
second hand clothing.
HEAD-GEAR.
The saucy, devil-may-oare Gypsey hat
en- gO9Ue again. They are shown III whit
straw and chip, the fronts turned straight u
over the forehead, and lined with black vel
vet. They are very little trimmed band O
ribbon or lace placed across the top, and tie
on the left side, is sufficient. The Triano
hat is lowered over the forehead, in the shap
of vizor, and turned up fiat against til
crown at the back, having much the appear