The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1870-07-26
AN AFTERNOON IN SALzBURG.

In one of Dr. Hurst s letters to the Meth0-
dist we find this little sketch of one of the
most picturesque of European towns-
"We took the train from Munich to Salz-
burg, and we're glad enough to cross the
Bavarian Highlands, and come within nearer
view of the western Tyrolese Alps. The road
skirted for miles the shore of Lake Chem,
one of the most beautiful of the marvellous
cluster of little lakes lying along the southern
frontier of Bavaria, which the German artists
almost monopolize as a summer lounging and
sketching place. We reached Salzburg not
too late in the afternoon for a pleasant drive
around the suburbs and q leisurely visit to
the palace castle on the hill overlooking the
city. / had long ago concluded that, for
romantic beauty of situation, at least three
places in Western Tyrol surpass Salzburg, in
the East-namely, Innsbruck Meran, and Bot
zen-but if the traveller is reduced to the
painful strait of seeing but one of them, he
should select Salzburg without hesitation.
You are at once reminded of Edinburgh; and
Wilkie is not far out of the way in saying that
sit is Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town
brought within the cliffs of the Trosachs, and
watered by river like the Tay.' But the
Tro6achs give you no mountains clad IN per-
petual SHOWS, like the Noric Alps, half en-
bracing, with their great white arms, Salzburg
and its scores of villas nesting in every posi-
BILE nook. The palace was once the residence
were temporal rulers of a territory of two
hundred thousand inhabitants, and held the
dignity of princes of the German empire.
Some of the halls have been restored to their
former beauty. We were shown, in square
tower, the torture chamber, where the arch
bishops dealt summarily with rebellious Pro-
testants and all others who provoked their
ire. A part of the apparatus is still visible,
and particularly the rack by which the vic
tim was raised to the roof, and then, with
one hundred and fifty pound weights attached
to his feet, dropped down through trap
door into depths from which, even If he were
not lifeless, his voice could nevermore be
heard. 1t was under such rulers that, in the
years 1912, thirty thousand Protestants
were driven into exile
''The city abounds in objects of interest,
but the greatest of them are the enchanting
views presented from as many as a dozen
knolls on the Monchsberg, rampant of rock
rising directly in the rear of the place. Para
CELSIUS, the pretended discoverer of the eIigir
T5t@ and the philosophers stone, ended his
days here, and rude bust of him marks the
front of the house where he ceased his check
cred life. Our guide showed us the villa of
the Prince Archbishop of Schwarzenberg,
Primate of Bohemia, who comes here to
spend his summers.
"'Does he ever preach here in the cathe
dral? we asked our guide, himself q Catho.
ic
"sOh! no, he answered, in holy horror
hes an Archbishop
''And So with new ideas of archiepisco
pal dignity, and famed by the crisp breeze
from the snowy peaks which the full May
moon revealed in grand outline before ou
open windows in the hotel, we lay down tC
the sweet sleep of weary travellers"