New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-06-21

| -hI'HAhD hilDkEJH-A. W. IUAIER trD
| BEETHOVEN.
| IRON AN oCCAeIoHAL CORRESPONDENT
| Winter passage over the Alps has lost its an
cient terrors since the completion Of the railroads
over Mont Gents TO Turin, over the Brcnner Pass
| from Innsbruck 10 Verona and from Vienna 10
! Trieste and Venice by the Semmering Pass. In
former times the traveller to Italy was unwilling 10
postpone his journey until after the commencement
of October and even that delightful season often
exposed him TO inconvenience and even peril from
the furious storms and drifting SHOWS Of the incle
ment Alpine passes. With the exception Of q few
days in the depth of Winter, the transit is now
rapidly and easily made, and although rough winds
and clustering weather are usually the order of the
day. the quick change from the rigors Of the
mountains to tie softer skies Of the great Italian
plain brings with it the charm Of an agreeable sur
prise.
Toward the middle Of November last found my
self in the capital Of Austria with the intention Of
travelling by easy stages to Venice, Florence and
Rome The Winter had already given us a foretaste
of its Alpine severity, the sublime envrons Of Salz-
burg were almost covered with the early snow and
i'll spite Of the luxurious cushions and comfortable
foot-warmers of the Austrian carriages, the railway
journey from Munich was as little fascinating as the
trip from New-YoTk 10 Boston at the same season
In Vienna, the weather gave no indication Of APP
proach to Southern climate but rather Tesembled
the sullen bleakness of a New-England March, Ey-
erybody seemed 20 be the victim Of a bad cold
pocket-handkerchiefs were in greater request than
parasols, and on the weekly bills of mortality fully
twothirds of the deaths from nl@.Rts of the
lungs. was not tempted 10 remain long in that
lively metropolis although the throng and hustle Of
its streets, the vvacty of It's population ts aiuence
of amusements and the curious variety of its artistic
collections and monuments usually make II to the
American tourist of the most attractive cities of
Europe often in his rivang Paris itself.
1t was on cold but beautiful Winter morning that
i started from Vienna by the railway the Sem
mering Pass for three days journey to Venice The
clustering Alps were whitened with snow, and the
keen bracing air gave promise of the voluptuous
sofness for which Italy IL with or less justice
so widely renowned. How far my expectations la
this respect were fulfilled may tell you hereafter.
But neither the wintTy winds nor the mountain tenn
perature could impair the enjoyment OF the passage
over these complicated Alpine Businesses The Swiss
carriage roads are celebrated as wonderful achieve
ments of modern engineering. As monuments OF
human enterprise ana skill, they certany rival the
grandeur of the mountains, whose difficulties they
have so ingcniously overcome. But the scientific
audacity which has constructed a smooth pathway
apparently inaccessible ledgrs If rock, and con-
nected the grim precipces which fr0wnin0ly con-
front each other by sociabe bands Of iron leave the
Spltgen and st. Gothard far behind in comparison
The Semmering railroad from Vienna to Graft, the
capital of Syria is about 80 csh miles in length,
and near its center reaches higher point than any
other railroad in Europe being nearly 5000 feet above
the level of the sea- The is too steep TO allow
the passage of heavy freight trains, bat the accom-
modations for the traveller Of "A supe-
rOr order; every provision s made to guard against
accident; and although YOU seem to he hurled forth
in the midst of inevitable perils il is seldom indeed,
that casualty has occurred and all sense Of danger
is soon lost in the subnity OF the scene IL is now
about sixteen years since the road completed and
from that tmeit has been favrte route with tourists
from the South of Germany to Italy. For Winter
journey, think. in many respects il may claim the
preference the Brenner Pass and that OF Mont
Cents although each the traveller must lay his ac
count for delay by the Alpine The scenery IL
singularly grand IN places almost too terrific TO
be thoroughly attractive; while In others II IL graz
cously relieved by the plains and valleys OF tender
green which form an exquisite contrast TO the fire.
quent savage expression Of mountain Nature. The
numerous excursions in the vicinity OF the Pass,
which may be made by carriage, or on foot, lead to
some Of the most romantic scenery OF the Austrian
Alps and in the Summer season aiiord a series of
tempting episodes TO the visitor in Vienna.
The ancient town of Graft. which made my halt
fashionable travel but is well worthy Cf passing
notice 1t is situated lofty eminence, more than
thousand feet above the level Of the sca, and
mands wide and charming prospect. From the
center Of the plain which the town il buii high
hill towers up in majestic isolation, covered with the
remains Of q former citadel. aud afording pictur-
esaue view Of the city and of the valley oi the Mu
which winds its svery thread as far the eye can
reach through the adjacent country The University
OF Graft is the principal seat Of learning in Styria
and enjoys deseryedly high reputation foY the ac-
cOmplishments of its professors aud the zeal with
which they devote themselves TO the interests Of ed
ucation. The town enjoys another valuable means
of culture in an institution founded abont halt
century ago by the Archduke John Of Austria for the
promotion of literature science and the useful aris
in Syria. course Of lectures, somewhat the
plan of the Lowell lectures in Boston. Is annually
delivered by eminent professors for the benefit of
the public; it has choice library for popular
use: and its collections OF natural history, IS
pecially in the mineral department, are sid 10 he
of uncommon value and interest. As have already
said Graft is somewhat OFF the usual line Of Euro
pean tourists and thus far has to great degree
capped the influence of the prodigal English aud
Americans whose exacting demands for the comforts
of home have so much increased the expenses If
travelling and raised the prices even III provincial
towns to a level with those in the most luxurious
capitals The cost of living in Graft at present, is
comparatively moderate and hence il is fayorteres-
dence with retired public officers and military men,
and Others who strive make both ends meet with
out sacrificing appearances. The markets are abund-
ant and excellent, as would naturally be the case
with the admirable agriculture Of this part of Aus
tra the poultry of Syria, especially is famous the
turkeys, which in Europe usually below par, ex-
cept in France are said TO equal those of Rhode
Island; but on making inquiries the subject at
my hotel i was informed that the not yet