Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1870-11-01
OVER SKIRTS.

tuoh piNCe lasl season, l8s Dc come much SDOEc
dehn Re. and pronounced so much 20 fiat al
ready short, pulled, and paniered over skirts
look like an exceedingly old, as they were al
ways. very bad style. The new over skirts
are very long. always reaching to the top OF the
trimming upon the under dress, and are looped
high al the sdes, or drawn backyard raised so as
TO iorm side port, which saves il from the
piaiDDess OF perfectly straight cur The bot
tom is cut straight all round, and looped up into
rregulsrlty, or 1T is rounded up very high at the
sides, and lef, straight at the back. An the
fullness, and most of the trimming is now
massed at the back, rome dressmakers even 60
ing so Tar Is TO fiOnDce walking dresses at the
PACK, and leave them perfectly plain in front;
unity in cosipns apsg np1sn ana h snnt o.
lat TIN nings are now much more fashiona.
Die than tounces, even upon unuerskirts. and
lies such mania a. during the past two seasons
and though RIFLES are pretty and very good in
thelr place, yet not few women have nearly
died OF them Broad velvet is undoubtedly the
fayorite trimming this winter upon all fabrics
bnt velvet itself; but very good and lady-like
enc ct Is produced by using cross-cut bands Of
the m2terial-clOth, cashmere, empress cloth,
serge or poplin, and edgipg them ON both sides
WIN narrow, double folds of satin or groS grain
l. GRAND ToILETTEs.
tnese are COMPOSED of rich silk or velvet,
trimmed rrofueely with lace. Muslin over
skirts and oyerdresses are less worn than last
season. though they are still to be seen.
great many black dresses have been made up
thf season for grand toilettes, at a cost Of $3.50
TO kiOo, which were more disting uished than any
thing mcobrs which have seen. One OF these
Wy serve to Indicate the whole The trained
skirt was bordered with nouDce, laid over a
plating Of white muslin, edged with narrow
N4enciennes lace Above the; fiounce was a
thrk m9sw ruchipg, and above this hounce
An upper skirt was formed OF q wide founce OF
gutpure, loopsi at the sides with boz OF ribbon
ana bunch OF ostrich feathers. The body is made
round with two rows OF black and white lace.
put on full, the black over the white.
This falls below the silk, and is headed With a
pstes the tIimmiSS s Sn s IL 1eoa a the
basque formed by q double box pleat at the
back, takes - place. "A very novel and ele-
9rts gram maroon velvet. and narrow white
point lace. A deep plated founce il lined With
velvet, AID set on with . cross cutbacd of the
leaving beading OF ne si* lined With WE'VE,
to match the lower edge. An edge OF point lace
is Get on either side Of the velvet folds against
the silk; pout OF velvet surrounded with
band OF the silk ard bordered with . wide
holnce OF lace, which is caught up nj the sides
with bouquets of tea roses forms the upper skirt,
Ehlie the bodice, Is arranged as basque with
skirt.
A pretty toilet for Q young married lady
consists OF plain low necked dress Of turquoise
lace. This il arranged as skirt and jacket, and
trimmed with soft, messy raches Of blue silk
matching the color Of tho dress. TheSe ruches
soft ard delicate effect. They are quite new
A wide Llama lace Is set on with a slight full-
ness, forming founce bAsques and rutfies to the
sleeves. d IT,
A dinner dress designed for a trcusseau was
completed recently, which presented some
novel features. IL was light blue, trimmed with
BEADED sa the ami
was stone color, trimmed with blue, and wa
open, hear t-shape, with rufies at the neck and
wrists Of exquisite lace Almost all dresses are
n SNQYNa1v a In euf
boddlce is to be seen, and when IL b. there are
basaues attached instead of a sash, and ribbon
OF trailing flowers are garlauded 1t the side OF
the skirt.
Sable and seal skins have interfered this sea-
mink Sable is row very little higher D IN price
than hrst-ciass mink, aud of course pos
sesses greater prestige. The new sable mutt,
perfectly nins Is thick Sas gr sf
ard is arranged 80 as to form pockets for the
hands, the ends lifted with elastic castings which
useless cords or tassels or Ornaments OF any
kind, and the absence OF these snowy bu. vulgar
appendages has done much towards restoring the
ancient considerations in Which sab'e iur wa,
held. Seal skin jackets, so highly valued abroad,
are reduced about One-quarter in price: a
jacket that would have cost sioO las
Very pretty sets are made of seal skin bordered /
with dark mink, consisting Of muff and collar
cite, but in sable and most other furs the long
a
dark fur called 'Rose Martenn is taking the
place Of ordinary mink, and can be recon-
mended for beauty and dur ability. 1T is a yer,
handsome dark fur with rather long hair, which
Is neither dyed nor stained, but sold in Its nat
ural color. Muff and long boa constitute n
set Corresponding to these are the sets OF
"Arrtic Fox" beautiful white fur for evening
or carriage wear. 1t is not SO choice as ermine.
but very stylish with a black velvet SUIT and har
trimmed with white ostrich planes.
HATS.
The princinal fe atur es of vintar bots gI,on,a.,
are hardly seen) are height in front and the
handsome scarf of velvet, or rich graS 0.1Is
tripged ribbon, at the back. Velvet il cnt H.
wide pointed ends, which tails over the chignon
and are edged with lace or rri~ge. Ribbon !.
knotted in The center, ard has long ends edgeJ
with knOtted fringe. SOFT " Pamela" or Gipsey
bonnets are much admired, made of blue OF
terry velvet, with full lining of black LYONS
velvet. One black ostrich tip and two matching
the velvet in color, with bow and ends OF rich
gros gram ribbon, constitute the trimming. 10
which is added the strings which pass under the
chin but tie at the side.
VELVET CLoAKS
Form long casaques, or TUNES. full at the back
raised al the sides. and with wi de sleeves whi,'.
90 not crush the silk and lace beneath The,
are very richly trimmed with a heavy crotchei
embroidery, IN which the smallest quantity OF
fine cut jet Is introduced. The border is tuck
krotted fringe or lace. handsome cloak o.
This Kind, lined and quilted with silk, costs s2Vo.
PRICES,
however, cannot now be depended upon. They
have been irregular and subject to fiuctuation
since the commencement OF our war, which
advanced them to such a rate that thew are
never likely again TO reach their former stand
ard. The European war is operating i'm the
same wAy upon all articles Of French and Ger
OF France Best kid gloves have gone up from
SO. their recent price, TO 3 per pair. French
silks and velvets have eNperiepced . rise also,
seem to he the articles we are likely to suffer
ior the most as they 'ca shortly rot Be oeta,satie
oSNI'