The Middlebury register. [volume] (Middlebury, Vt.) 1850-1882, 1870-12-13

l@lalslon CITY. New Mexico. Nov. Z. 70

Fort Yuma where we posted you our last
letter was short but non too much 20 to
suit our comfort and convenience, as
mercury Was standing at HID in the
shade.
Leaving the Hort we passed through
the little town Of Arizona. which seemed
to he the headquarters of the Yuma
tribe of Indians, which in point Of ply
siquc, are the finest looking Indians we
ever saw. The males dress in the primi-
tive style of John the Baptist, and the
females also dress in The height of fash
ion; low neck and short sleeves. A short
skirt made Of willow bark, constitutes
th.eir entire wardrobe. They all wear
their hair long, and never using a comb,
it hangs in witch ropes, like the mansc of
young colts.
Turning our gaze from things behind,
We were soon well on our way to Tucson.
From its mouth, the road follows the ella
river a distance of $50 miles, alternately
leaving and striking the stream at differ
ent points, passing through a succession
Of barren valleys, over extensive plains OF
mesa land, and continuous chains OF
mountains. The river banks are skirted
with u fine growth Of cotton wood. The
table lands are covered with clumps Of
low sage brush, and dotted here and there
with the mammoth trunks of the giant
cactus, which grow from 90 to 80 feet in
height, and two and three feet in dame
ter. They have no branches, but are
covered with thorns, as is the case with
almost every bush and shrub that grows
in this country. In the distance they ap-
pear like lingering monarchs of a desolat-
ed forest. Two hundred miles cast of Fort
Yuma, the road passes n most wonderful
volcanic mountain, in which the strangest
confusion of outlines and colors pre-
walls; it is literally Il chaotic wilderness
Of rocks, bouldcrs, p%orphyritic, pillars,
masses of lava, and %scoria, weird and ter
riblc, yet magnificent in the immensely OF
its dcsolation.
Its base is walled in with massive
bouldcrs, known as the nitched rocks,
being covered with hicroglyphics CHS seled
out ages ago with some sharp instrument.
From here on to Tucson we journeyed
through a dangerous Indian country, as
we were forcibly reminded by the numer-
Gus little grave yards by the way side.
We travelled continuously, however,
passing over the most dangerous portions
of the road by night, and at length reached
a point Of mountains - miles west of the
metropolis Of Arizona. The remainder
ofthe way we were refreshed with thick
cts of mcsquit and grease wood emerging
from which we behold one of the most
"scatterations' olhuman habitations, Tue.
son the capitol a city Of mud boxes,
dingy, and d%ilapidated, cracked, and
baked into a composite Of dirt and filth
every thing grimly desolate in the glare
of n southern sun. Adobe walls without
whitewash inside or out, are almost as
uninviting as the walls of IL prison.
The buildings and streets are all on
material and one color; and both rudely
constructed without the slightest regard tC
uniformity for beauty. The town con-
tains about 5000 inhabitants, mostly
Mexicans, which are the most indolent
thieving, and religious beings in cxis
%tcnce; that is, the: medium and lower
classes, who are devoted exclusively tC
the Catholic faith.
We remained in Tucson five days, anC
during this time they held a great icas
in honor Of a noted Saint, San Francis
co. \ figure moulded Of wax and woot
to represent this adorable branch o
Deity, was brought into the church ant
placed upon a low table, neatly drapet
and decorated with flowers near the al
tar, which was emblazoncd with burnin,
tapors. Beside the emblematical sain
was placed u Large box, presided over b.
his holiness, the priest. Every thing ii
readiness, the multitude crowded
about the entrance, and passed in one b,
one upon Bonded knees, upon which the,
walked the whole length Of the aisle, whcl
in the presence Of the saint, they bowe,
their heads, kissed his fcet,arose dropped
a mite in the big box, nodded to tn,
priest and departed. A repetition o
this part of the ceremony was INDUCED il
by those desiring to be doubly blessed
during the ensuing year. Many Of tn
females fingered about the altar for al
opportunity to lay OIL a string and meas
urc different portions Of the body Of thu
saint, believing that said string woulC
ever after be Il charm and drive ava,
pain from any part ofthc body correspon
ding with those measured.
Nine miles south of Tucson stands tn
old mission of San Xarier del Bac, bull
by the Jesuits in 1GGS. 1t is one of tn
most beautiful cdifices Of the kind to b.
found ON the continent. 1t is quite sur
? prising to see such a splendid monumcn
of civilization in the wilds Of Arizona
The front was richly ornamcnted will
i%ancitul decorations in masonry n lofty
bell tower rises at each corner, one o
which is capped by Il dome the other
still remains in an unfinished condition
Over the main chapel in the rear is als'
a large dome and the walls are sur
mounted by massive cornices, and orna
ments appropriately designed. The ma
terial is %principly brick. The style o
architecture is Saraccnic.
The inhabitants living about the mis-
? sion are principally Papagoc indians
partially civilized.
Before leaving Tucson We fell in will
Il party of lG Texans returning to thei
native State. This accession to our littl,
party, which up to this time consisted
of three gentlemen and one lady, made
us sufficiently strong to travel with com
p%arative safety the balance of the way t,
the mines, distant from Tucson, l6(
miles. We always took the prccautiol
to camp on open ground, and trave.
through the narrow passes by night, In.
dians seldom attack Il party on open
ground, and rarely fever at night. They
entertain a susperstitious notion that an
evil spirit, rules the night and might lead
them into trouble and bring them to grief
The Apaches are naturally cowardly,