The Charleston daily news. [volume] (Charleston, S.C.) 1865-1873, 1870-09-07
FASHIONS FOB SEPTEMBER.
suits and Costumes-The New Autumn
Costumes, sc.
NEW YORK. August -.

New YORK. August q.
There Is one great advantage in the present
style. and that is that all the old dresses that
have lain in the bottom Of trunks for q hun
dred years can be utilized. Long, short, mar
row, straight makes no difference, all can be
turned to account and arranged to complete
the prettiest toilettes that mlliners ever in
vented. The most costly dresses ever worn
were the plain waists and long. rull, single
skirts. which preceded the present fashion OF
walking dresses. Every seam and rent and
bare spot showed to such conspicuous advan-
tage, that only while dress was quite new
could one be perfectly sure that it was con,me
u fdut. Let it once show signs OF wear upon
the edges or acquire the dreadfully dragged
and mired appearance which few eff
| forts at pedestrianism gave it, and, alas !!
| poor YorIck, it was oil over the evidence OF
| accidents or wear could neither be cut on nor
covered up. Costumes of course are not eco,
nomical to those who patronize high-priced
dress-makers, and use always new materials
and new trimmings, and there are those who
think it so very slow" to do otherwise that
one loses caste In their eyes BY speaking ofthe
possibility. Nevertheless one must take the
risk, for the sake OF those who like pretty
things, lust as we'll as Miss Japonica, but have
not Miss Japonica's sublime trust in Papa
and a rich husband to draw upon. A lady re-
marked the other day that she had fitted out
her daughter for boarding school, and two
others for summer trips and visits
among friends, by using up old oid tnMings Mg
there may be doubt about the wisdom that
permits women to buy so much more than they
| can wear out, while it Is fashlonably worn, but
still they 90 it, and unused garments Will ac-
cumuate so until women have more sense and
can better employ their time 1t IS just as wen
| to furnish them fresh ideas by which they car can
| may be the reason why costumes have to
| certain extent superseded suits, and why the
| suit complete-hat gloves and other accesso-
ries uniform with the dress-is now the high
est form of elegance For the latter every
thing must be perfect, and belong to Itself. lt
new throughout, everything, and that exactly
suits fashionable dressmakers and bliss ia
ponica.
The NEW AUTUMN COSTUME.
The novelty OF the season is a costume COM
posed of several shades of one color. For e&-
! ample, if the foundation material Is green. IL
will be trimmed with three different shades,
darker or lighter, or both, OF this color; II
brown, with three diferest shades OF brown,
and the hat must correspond in color and shad.
ing with the dress. The favorite method OF
arranging silk toilette Is to turn it In clusters
of ruchings, or narrow ruffles, which may
either be bound, pinked or feathered upon
the edge. Purple, green, brown or gray
shade, very finely, blue H., not So So happily,
senting repulsive and unattractive as
pect. Poplin merino and empress cloth
turn handsomely with narrow bands OF plush
in darker shades, or with shaded velvet,
which has been imported In small quantities,
but will be scarce, because the war renders II
difficult to duplicate certain new styles IN
| trimmings and fabrics. There Is, however,
very handsome new trimming of American
manufacture introduced this fall, which cop-
ss,s of narrow band oil soft, moss-like push
Il Is all silk. and made In all shades OF coiors
1t Is called ''Marabout.r from its sottness and
beauty. but it Is more Ike Felvet moss; II rs
exceedingly effective when arranged in the
different Shades OF one color upon plain sur
face.
NEW GOODS, AND GOODS THAT ARE NOT NEW But
GOOD.
Among the new importations OF the season
must be mentioned wool Sdtine.r q beautiful
material tor suits. corresponding to the cotton
sdtine which was so much admired during the
mast summer The iue wool fabric is, how.
ever. much handsomer than any materia.
could be in cotton, and will undoubtedly at
once take rank with good popllns and other
favorite materials. Belonging to the family OF
mohairs, but OF higher grade than any we
have ever seen in this country, IS tne iurhlsn
Brilliantlne." sable brand. 1t Is a itch, heavy,
glossy, black fabric, thirty inches wide, made
OF the pure wool of the Turkish goat. and
quite as handsome as silk. 1t will undoubted-
IL increase the furore for black suits and
dresses. which exists quite as much In Paris as
in New York. Scotch poplins and English
serges reappeat' OF VIII shorty, nase casts i oi
seems likely to take place In all-woo! black
and white checks, which are much
worn abroad, trimmed with black velvet,
and constitute some Of the prettiest suits
brought on by ladies who have recently re-
turned from Paris. The checks are generally
heretofore seen only in light colors, and hne
white anG black stripes, will be displayed this
fall for the first time In dark autumn colors
and in mixed jasper patterns. The prices are
a little higher In the brightest, more decloed
shades, but the quality Is said to De better, anu
the appearance. especially In the evening;
very effective. In plain silk the gros grain and
pure pouit de sole take the lead OF oil other
STYLES. and exhibit wonderful beauty and va
riety of color and shading. The latest fabric
for grand toieltes Is rich satin brocade. blue,
pink or light green. 1t is only adapted to an
tione models, and strictly requires the lace
ruiiles, the powdered hair and the patches on
looks like costly window curtains. and Is PROB
ably intended to suit the taste OF those persons
who caught the Partisan taste and did theIi-
selves In chintz window curtains during the
past summer.
AN EFFECT OF THE WAR.
A singular effect of the war is already visi-
BILE in the arrival among us Of French artists
in dress, who systematic their business as
men are accustomed to do whatever they un-
dertake, and who, therefore, bring readi-
ness, skill and adaptabillty with which our
slip-shod methods will fnd it hard 10 compete.
Their stock in trade consists OF book OF de-
signs OF morning, walking, visiting and even
ing costumes. From these any lady can Sc,
lect her toilette. or she can have an original
one designed for her which will be entirely
different from anything anybody ever had be-
fore The materials are suggested, but can be
varied to suit her taste or her pocket. Peo-
pie require a long purse, however, who
employ French artist to design oriSi-
nal costumes for them. One Of our
large houses has secured very dlstin-
guished member of the foreign troupe OF male
dressmakers, and Is making to order genuine
court costumes, which are to be worn at Re-
publican entertainments during the coming
winter. No two are alike, and each one Is
absolutely work Of art, as perfect and true
| to its idea as a poem or picture. Or their
evening costumes in process OF CONSTRUCTION