New-York tribune., 1870-08-05
THROUGH TO THE PACIFIC.
1,Sr IMPRESSIONS OF CALIFORNIA AND
THE OVERLAND ROUTE.

,Jll
onuaton of California has changed and not for the bet
80 . cypress what believe all Californans, whose
,houohts are not directed exclusively to their mateil
interests. feel to be true :.
Tn the first pace there less interest now exhbitedn
Literature and Art by the whole American people, than
At any time within the years. Intellectual activity
has diminished taste has retrogaded, and the prospects
of artists authors and publishers were never so u Us
nou There are fewer readers Of books In proportion 10
the popuation than there were In 1855; snd WIN ie"
exceptions the works which attain the greatest clic"
tion are OF inferior literary character ferhaps tns
late result Of the war; perhaps II Ia an h'eiec'uai uo
,,orazaton pary owing the rise of Shoddy ana the
prcdominance Of restless speculative eieen' III a
branches Of business will not undertake 10 explain
tho nbepomenon which believe TO be only temporary
The Sensational seems TO he the vice OF ths geherao
II corrupts books, newspapers sermons anu iec'oS
Rrt il one of those forces which work their own over
throw the more speedily from their very excess.
That degree OF Culture which becomes permanent
mart Of Bfe-whch is finally wrought into the entire
texture of mans or wOman's natureis stn confined to
comparatiyely small class among But that acquired
opture which seems genuine long II is encouraged
and supported by the atmosphere of old established
society hut becomes and more superficial OF wholly
disappears a society where it is not eXacted,
characterizes very large class of people. Intelligence
and TASTE with this class, only kndeep, and little
scratching reveals the material interests under
meath Although in the early settlement OF California
the great rush Of emigration from 40 to 53-this class
was largely predominant there also mixture OF
the better eement-enough, perhaps, to have stamped
its character upon much of the society. AT least such
seemed to be the case late 1889, when Literature
and AIT discussed at the pleasant evening
in san Francisco and rough miners talked with me
abOut Browning and Carlyle
Then came the war; which operated in two ways-t
arrested the emigration California from the Northern
States while the reputation of the national currency
and the subsequent in gold brought home very many
the better class of the population man OF real IN
tcligence and refinement, who, in 1864, could double
his property 10y simply going home, had thus a double
temptation do His place not filed because no
man OF capital cared TO go where that capital would In
stantl be diminished Onehalf II always seemed 10 me
that there was OF a financial swagger than any
thing the tenacity with which the Californians
held their gold Certainly the air with which they
iinged and displayed their twenty dollar pieces when
ever they came among had very staggering char
acter. Opinions are divided to the wisdom Of the
course very estmabe gentlemen in san Francisco
believe that IL was vitay necessary, but majority
think are satisfied that it was mistake Not being
member of Congress, frankly admit my ignorance OF
financial questions and only refer to the subject because
of its effect Oh the character Of California society.
Towards the close Of the many runaway southern
ers began arrive, and the san Joaquin and Salinas
valleys principally settled with them The Southern
and Celtic elements combined achieved control Of the
state, and this day it is the only state in the Unon
loyal during the war; in which the Rebel flag floats over
drinking saloons Add to these causes the long isolation
Of California the perpetual praise TO which its people
been treated, fostering their sefsatsacton and
removing stimulus TO growth, and the deterioration
which impressed itself me is easily accounted Tor
The Pacific Railroad finished day too soOn and
the Northern and Southern roads cannot be completed
200 speedily. 1t is not good for men, nor for States to
DE alone. Business from the East assure me that
ideas and habits Of Caornians at present.
are those Of section, twenty years But with
this lack OF growth there Is unfortunately, combined the
most unmngled vanity. The self-glorifcation Of the
American finds its apex in that OF the Californian Con-
sequently is that everything around him ia
best he doesnot trouble himself to inquire whether it be
even good.
have referred tO'The Overland Monthly which every
body be excellent and admirably conducted
magazine the only literary periodical on the Pacific
Coast. and local pride one would suppose, would
secure it supporting circulation in California, Nevada,
and Oregon. Yet the publishers informed me that It's
entire circulation those is only equal to that in
the East, and consequently it is only half supported
there 1t is more extensively and appreciatiyely no
ticed in papers than in those OF California
also spoke of Bancroft's bookstore the extent
and completeness Of which filed me with equal surprise
and delight Its immense, luxurious saesroom not sur
passed by AppletOns' or LppineOtts) with tens OF
thousands volumes representing every department Of
aud Science its stores of stationery its print
ing binding departments. indicate wide and assured
range OF business. But doubt If any bookstore out Of
san Francisco furnishes all American and English publ
cations they appear, and this establishment, there
fore supplies the whole coast. The Mercantile Library
OF Francisco has about $4,000 volumes. novels being
predominant and read almost exclusively The mOneyed
men of the city have their libraries, of cOurse-a
library being indispensable part of wellfurnished
house The newspapers devote their columns chiefly to
State news and politics. less space is given to national
questions subjects Of general interest than formerly
The San Francisco Alta and Bulletin and The Sacramento
Union are well conducted and well supported but
papers are necessity, however books may be neglected
am not sure that the climate of California though for
at least half the year exquisite all respects favor
able to Om race San Francisco is city where man
rapidly out while in the hot interior valleys he in
cines fall into the opposite extreme OF Incidence and
sensuOus Indifference. 1t seems TO me that an unusual
number of my aequantances have died since my
sst visit who remain appear older than ths
years would for The native Mexican families
noted for their longevity and perhaps the American
children born there may develop constitution in har
mony with the climate for in appearance they won
derfuly fresh and healthy and unnecessary
worry kill than climate. in all parts of country
To me, the climate Of the San jose and Russian River
yaeys-of nearly all the valleys of the Coast Range in
fact-is nearly perfect have found nothing like it in
any part OF the world and ought to produce
dowed with fine ply steal and mental qualities
Having done my full share in former days, in prasng
California do not scrupe to point out the short
cOmings have noticed The true development of the
people has been greatly retarded and it will take
other generation TO regain what has been lost Inter
course with the rest of the country and better
emigration careful and thorough education of the chill
ren now growing up elements of progress
IN California The State University has about so students;
il ought TO have 500.
might refer, also to the manner In which settlement
is prevented by excessive speculation in land but this is
an evil which win long compel some sort Of remedy