New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-07-29
ITALIAN NOTES.


PoRTs-PAPAL FINANCE-FIRsT VIEW OF
ROME.
IFRoM AN OCCASIONAL CORRESPONDENCE
On my arrival in Florence about the middle OF No
vember all illusions with regard to the enchant-
ments of an Italian Winter speedily dispelled
The broad sunshine the favored side of the street
usFered strong temptation to outdoor exercise on
pleasant days; but the spell soon passed away and
on crossing over into the shade, sudden chill sue
ceeded the friendly warmth, and made one long for
the sight of a good American coal-fre. AS you
turned the corner in another direction, You were
met by piercing blast from the Apennines which
reminded You more Of an Autumnal breeze of the
White Mountains, than of the soft Italian skies.
The truth is that in this climate you must be pre-
pared for regular Winter weather, or you will suffer
alike in your feelings and your health.
The temporary warmth only predisposes
Won 10 take cold easily, and without con-
slant precautions you can hardly escape that
inconvenience. Thick clothing is necessary as in
New-York, and the transition from sun to shade in
the street occasions far greater exposure. In fact,
nobody acquainted with the Italian climate ever
walks in the sun, the native sticks to the shady side
at all hazards, and if you see one tempted by the
treacherous warmth of the opposite side you may
set him down as an Englishman an American who
keeps to his old habits under every change of crcum-
stances. The Summer, however, is hot enough in
Florence to make a strong contrast, and one by no
means agreeable, to the inclemency of the Winter
During former visit TO the city, in the month OF
August l found the heat almost intolerabe. The
Arno was wholly unworthy of its reputation, and
had the appearance of long, arid sInd-bank rather
than of a beautiful stream of water. The mag
Bifcent bridges seemed to be without purpose you
could almost cross the bed of the river dry-shOd.
Since the political changes which have made Flor
ence the capital of Italy, its social character as am
informed, has experienced considerable mOdihca-
TONS and perhaps, not in all respects for the better
The treasures of art which have made 1T one of the
principal eenters of aesthetic cultivation, OF course,
remain the same. In spite of every offset they will
always attract the traveller from distant lands and
richly reward him for his pilgrimage. Perhaps no
European objects of interest have been more faith
fully described than the galleries and palaces of
Florence The untraveed American becomes fami-
lar with their details through the excellent works
that have been written on the subject. But no de-
scription do justice to the reality, and an inte
gent curiosity can only be gratifed by personal
visit Hence Florence will continue to be one
of the principal sources of interest to the
FOREIGN tourist. But he will hardly find the
Florence of his Dreams the Florence of his books,
except in its monuments of art Even the language
of the people has lost something of the purity and
sweetness for which it has been famed. The genuine
Tuscan has suffered less corruption from the
influx of strangers from other parts of Italy since
the Revolution. You meet in the streets with many
newcomers from Lombardy, and Genoa, and Naples,
and as natural consequence, strange dialects have
greatly impaired the legitimate traditional vernacu-
lar The police of the city also said to be on less
efficient footing than formerly and many travellers
complain of the increasing confusion and disorder OF
the streets. / cannot speak from my own experience
on this point but il is certainly natural to suppose
that the invasion of host of adventures, who are
actually foreigners, though nominally Italians
should produce the same consequences as in other
Quarters nearer home. matter of still more
interest to American travellers who contemplate
prolongng their stay in Europe is the great increase
in the prices of the means of living am told that
both provisions and house-Tent are nearly, II not
quite three times dearer than they were ten or III
teen years ago. This, however, does not prevent
many of our countrymen from selecting Florence as
temporary residence for the sake of its artistic at
fractions and the delightful scenery of its environs
and even with the increased expense OF housekeep-
ing believe they find it cheaper to live here than
in New-York or Boston, and receive more moneys
worth for the same money. Beside the American
artists in this city, there are several families who
make it their home for the present. and who live in
a STYLE of comfort or luxury, according to their
tastes, which they could not so easily command
with our extravagant prices, that we have
inherited among other disastrous fruits of
The Rebellion. hope viOlatenO courtesy in speak
ing of family, in particular, who hold dlstin-
guisLed position in the literary society of New-York,
whose house presents most kindly welcome to the
American visitor that can claim their sumptuOus
hospitality and whose devoted attentions to the
stranger make his sojOun in Florence one of the
most agreeable TecollectiOns of European tour.
Not content with the mechanical discharge Of mpor-
tant official functions the head of this house has
encerer pleasure than TO surround his old American
friends from the moment of their arrival, with an
atmosphere of kindness. and to apply all the re-
sources of his palatia abode to their entertainment
and qualification. He still finds time was glad to
notice for the cultivation of his favOrite tastes and
Ais rare collection of curious and exquisite spec
4nens in literature and art, which has called forth
such admiration from amateurs, will be enhanced in
value and interest by the opportunities afforded at
this shrine of the Beautiful.
Although, as We have heard, all roads lead to
Rome, am sure there are few more inviting than
the railway from Florence through Perugia and
IOligno which is bOrdered on each side by some of
the most charming scenery in Italy. The depot at
the station from which we start is itself an archi-
tectural wonder. 1t forms spacious and magniii-
cent crystal palace enriched with costly adornments
of art. This indeed, is the case with many of the
railway stations in Italy, especially that in Milan,
which combine convenience of arrangement with
splendor of execution The walls of the interior are
covered with elaborate paintings often representing
IN enlarged proportions some of the most celebrated
masterpieces of art and illustrating the taste of the
Italians for surrounding the common reali-
ties of life with forms of beauty. The
swiftest train to Rome, which performs the
journey in about twelve hours, travels only by
night. was unwilling to lose the novelties of the
way, and accordingly decided TO take the morning