The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, 1870-03-31

miniature MANTLE of the same design as the
'Metternich," is very fashionable outdoor
covering. 1t affords change from the basque
Plated fleunces, twelve inches in depth, are
worn upon the skirts of woollen dresses, cash
mere, alpaca, and the like. The plaits are SINGLE
laid close together, and turn all one way. They
are known as ''kilt" plaits.
Rutiles will, however, be universal this sum-
mer upon lighter materials. Some are futed
but the majority are gathered, and are put on
only moderately full.
The skirts of gored pique dresses differ from
others in being laid in large, fiat, hollow plaits
at the back instead of gathered, the material
being too stiff for gathers.
Woven embroidery, in open designs, is q
handsome trimming for pique and cambria
dresses. The pattern is woven in cambric and
the interstices between the work are cut out,
leaving very pretty trimming, as snowy as
lace and as substantial as the close Hamburg
work. 1t comes in double-edged bands yard
and an eighth long, making two yards and
quarter of ruflling. The price varies from 65
cents to 1915 a band, according to the quantity
of work. Insertions may be had in patterns to
match the frills. Double bands of French ma
chine work, far better than those usually shown,
are So. Hamburg insertion an inch wide,
attached to a pleated frill of cambria, forms
beautiful trimming, costing from so
cents to 80 cents yard according to
width. The pleats are all turned one way,
and are not tucks stitched down, but merely
folds ironed fatty, and held in place by a
tiny braid stitched on the under side near the
edge. Machine-tucked bands of fine cambric,
with four tucks in the group, are useful for
inserting between the ruflles and puffs of white
dresses. The tucks are even and regular, the
stitching is admirably done and the material
fine. piece of ten yards costs from 81 to $3.50,
according to the width of the tucks. Fluted
rufiies of Swiss muslin and of cambrlc, stitched
TO narrow bands, are sold in three widths in
pieces of six yards, costing from eighty cents
to dollar piece. Puffings of cambric, of
Victoria lawn, Swiss, or linen, consisting of
from four to eight puffs in strip, are conve-
nient for making puffed yokes and blouses. A
strip of four cambria puffs, each puff over an
inch wide, is sixty cents yard; with eight puffs
$1'25. very substantial and pretty braid for
pique dresses is called snow-drop trimming.
This is q cotton galoon with both sides alike
and sometimes with fringed edges. 1t is from
half an inch to an inch in width, costing from
55 cents to 81 a piece of twelve yards. Pearl
edged cord for braiding in patterns is wider and
heavier than star braid, and far more effective
on pique and Marseilles. Thirty-sx yards are
sold for 81.
lue rreucu HOue Oh racing SILK 0rcSS SklrCS
instead of lining them throughout is being in
troduced here. Wigging is no longer used as
stiffening for the bottoms of skirts-it was
found go liable to cut through the silk-but an
inner facing of alpaca, or some other material
of the same shade as the Dress is generally used.
For the house thereare two styles of waist.
The pointed corsage with Raphael neck is be-
coming to full figures, and is stylishly trimmed
with bands across the front, and braces over the
shoulder reaching from the end of the side darts
to q point behind. Elbow-sleeves are worn
with this, or very close long sleeves. The round
waist with heart-shaped throat is pretty for
slender figures, especially if the fiat bertha is
worn with it, and large puffed sleeves. Wide
ribbon sashes from eight to twelve inches, are
worn in all kinds of ribbon, but dark Roman
sashes in ruby, sultane imperial blue and black
lighted by little white and gold, are preferred
to wear with the light grey and white suits.
Some sashes with embroidered flower designs
are really artistic.
There is no longer any option as to the uni
formity of color in garments for street wear.
| The paletot, basque, mantle, or jacket may be
of different material from the rest of the dress,
| but it must be of the same color. Nothing vul-
garzes a street costume more than an outer
garment of different STYLE material, and color
from the rest of the dress. Shawls of lace and
cashmere are draped over trained dresses very
gracefully, and square, single shawl may be
arranged over a short dress as a tunic, or in
some other pretty way, but it must be either of
lace, or else correspond in color and style with
the dress to make an admitted costume.
Lace shawls are just now more available than
any other kind, and, in black or white, will be
in immense vogue during the coming summer.
With spring suits, short sacks and jackets will
be worn, with the sailor collar, with pointed
hood, trimmed with bows to match the trimming
upon the suit. These will be the especial favor
ties of young girls, but the "Metternich" will
undoubtedly be the popular design instead of
the worn-out basque. The "Metternich" is bet
ter adapted this season to popular wants than
when it was first introduced. In addition to the
ample mantle as it first appeared there are seve-
raj sizes and notifications, which are graceful
and becoming to younger persons than the mid
dle-aged matrons to whom the "Metternich,
proper, especially commends itself.
For exceptional occasions, such as evening
wear at a theatre or opera, there are some very
elegant velvet jackets and basques cut coat
style, and enriched with fringe, embroidery, Oh
gold braid.
The use of lace ruflles at the neck and wrists
is revival of an old fashion.
Coats of velvet lined with colored satin, ant
accompanied by satin walstcoat are nov
= worn over a removable train of velvet the satiI
petticoat, which is sometimes quilted half wa.
up the skirt being the exact color of the waistcoa
G and coat lining. The coat sleeves are rathe
! small at the wrist, and have lace ruiles falling
| oyar tho hand This cOstuma pOmDlatad bV