The New York herald., 1870-01-02
FASHION AND IIF5 IN EGYPT.
Horse Racing in the Desert-Thc VicerOy's
"TurnOut"-An English Steed Takes the
Prize-Evening Fetes and the Scene at
Sunset = The Mysterious Beauty
Again-Lunch at the Pyramids
The Return and Dressing for
the Opera.

The Return and Dressing for
the Opera.
ALEXANDRIA, Dec. I, 1880.
very different thing It Is to set out for the Long
champs races, near Paris and races the desert
d Abbassieh, near Cairo, In Egypt. It is an inf
nttely warmer ride in the first place, and in the
second dust coat Is no pretencs at all.
1t was may say, novel thing on reaching my
appointed place in the viceroy's stand to ind that
Arab steeds were not the only competitors down for
prizes on the lists, bur dromedarles and donkeys
likewise. More than novel, thirdly. was the aspect
of the field. To the right rose the citadel and
other antique domes. which sloped down to
tne borders OF that part Of the desert re-
served for the race course. Here line OF
Infantry had been drawn up to salute the Emperor
Of Austria who would have to arrive from mis- palace
70 the royal stand In that direction. In front long
horizon OF mounds enclosed the open space to the
eIt-the interminable desert-and behind the ruins
Of the "City Of the Sum-" Helopolis. The idea Of
our modern sport in such spot would have made
me fancy myself some embodied anacnr0nlsm had
not soon had the nineteenth century brought Aome
me BY the continued arrival Of trains from Cairo
with European tourists and Visitors In light gray
trousers aud pearl gray kids. Ladies also appeared
In toquets and blue veils They were few, certainly,
but enlivened the One equestrian belle took
place among the carriages that iringed the course.
on lovely white horse. Her saddle was blue
velvet; her style Of sitting all Rotten Row or Central
Park; her close fitting habit Partisan. But what
added kind Of piquancy to her appearance was
that she had come preceded by two of the finest Nu
blan forerunners in white, lowing camels hair
garments. worked with gold. These sats would
certainly have created great sensation In the
denst-monde at Longchamps. They were black as
ebony, and both as handome as Otheo In the eyes
OF Dcsdemona. Their light elastic spring over the
desert was still more graceful tnan the paving OF
the noble beast on which the fair sp0rtswoman was
mounted.
The Viceroy arrived In basket chaise covered
with light palanquin. umbrella shape His trotters
were light gray and harnessed with crimson, on
which merrlly rang numerous bells. Soon after he
was seated the Emperor OF Austria was announced
by the firing OF the infantry In the distance. All
glasses were directed to the spot Hls outriders
were dressed In scarlet livery, while he seated in
an open phaeton by OF the yIceroy's Ministers,
was IN q plain black irock coat, light trousers,
black round hat and lavender gloves. The most
decided ''swel" on his stan was'a young German
dplomatist in q dark green velvet Jacket and light
Ciutu tIOuscIS, Will TIC r&ypuuu SCuGi ONcT
his hat. These scars, or to be correct
and thus show q tincture OF Arabic, these 'cou-
neh" over hats have been the furor here since the
opening Of the canal. No one has gone out without
dangling couneh upon his head. rolled, streaming
or spreading somehow, and l infinitely prefer them
to the veil which sp0rtsmen delight IN on Derby
days. They have had so great success with both
sexes that pr0gn0stcate we have not seen the end
Of them at races. Those which are woven with gold
IN Pharaoh stripes Of red and yellow are the most
becoming. They cover the coat collar, keep or the
sun and dust and-add glow TO certain eyes, q
straightf0rwardness to certain noses screen to
certain whskers which, having been once appre.
clated In the glass cannot be easily dispensed with
in the future. Perhaps the least said ABOUT the
ners themselves Will be best.
Colonel Stantons stud, with English jockeys.
gained the day. There were but three dromedaries
to compete for prize Of fl25 sterling distance Six
before the end OF the face. This was local ana
interesting run, white. owner khalil-Aga, and
mounted Dy ferOclous looking BedOuln came up
by half length victorious at the winning post.
The terrible excitement among the dOnketeers,
twenty-five pound prize, greatly amused the En-
peror OF Austria. About 800 Arabs rusned on the
race course, gcstlculating and shrieking for the
persuade them to stand back and to explain to them
that 1t was all gong to be fair plays that their DON
sana TueS dsSeeyea r psv ne soon
tions and blows were EXCHANGED on 30 wholesale
scale that the run was given up and the Arabs were
beaten OH the Held. This was the real race, for lie
ran fastest came IN for less blows. In less than Ave
minutes the space was cleared and mighty shout Of
laughter from all spectators rang through Abbas-
seh.
splendid collation. consisting OF cold meat fowl,
pates and excellent wines. had been laid under
neghboring tent the VIcerOy's gentlemen guests
While the ladies were waited on by his servants In
the stands.
The Ite was not over until near sunset and glor.
fireworks
bouquet In the pyrotechnic line could ever create
SO deep sensation OF wonder as the sudden light
ing up OF that Egyptian sky ana the no less sudden
disappearance OF the mighty powerful orb behind
the horizon Of that hlppodr0me. All the coOrs ever
dreamed OF blended IN one harmonious prism were
spread In an ocean overhead Wherever the eye
turned II was entranced by sea OF purple gold and
blue that played on minarets and on every grain of
sand, on every pebble and fragment OF broken gran
ite under foot. The soul yearned to benInd
those dazzling realms above; down iel the Fell
lahins and Mussunans and with knees In tue sand
and faces to the east they worshippcd. Groups OF
them were soon at prayers In every direction Some
went apart and prayed alone, others took or ther
them In deep meditation. The larger number nut
tered u kind OF litany, with beads In hand every
and hlting up their arms. One old man, with
long flowing beard and venerable gray head, re-
minded me OF the Hebrew patriarcs. He prayed
with his arms extended until the sun
mad quite vanished. Stranger TO ms than
this unexpected sight was the undenlable
dence OF strong faitn on the commentaries OF
hgion such al we see In our modern temples; was
not lip service. GOD Is great Is the basis OF their
worship. AS looked at the departing, merry crowds
OF Europeans In well made attire, Just then all
running TO catch tue train which was TO convey us
to a banquet at Cairo. despised those who turned
to scof and mock these patient. these enduring
Arabs ''What splendid eyMiastlc exercise for
the body,' exclaimed young Parsian pointing 10
Felah then bowling and prostrallng himself on the
sand, land what cunning old cove was M0han-
med, said an Englisnman, "he invented ablutions
for the sake OF giving them nice wash once or
~ q
which never Will be forgotten.
The next day was TO see us among the tourists
who were to be with the Emperor Of Austria ut
the Pyramids. On this occasion, as throughout the
whole Egyptian trip, we were free to make up our
parties aud have our different halts IN companies OF
our own selection. No etiquette was enforced OF
guests beyond that OF seeing everything and being
everywhere. Consequently whole party Of us had
resolved TO visit the work OF Cheops together. We
considered, OF course that our members were made
up Of the best sOrt II we were mistaken we were,
al all events the merriest sort, and managed,
after inevitable trials and separations, to fan to-
Cether again. II Is not an easy thng 70 get to the
pyramids. IL can only be done with the assistance