New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-06-23
ON TO THE PACIFIC.
NOTES FROM OUR NEW FIELD or TRAVEL.
No. v
on THE CENTRAL PACIFIC ROAD.


Salt Lake I paid a visit to the sulphur springs At
the northern end Of the town The water guhes mp At
the base OF the mountains In strong ul stream, anu
led into a large swimming tank, where one may ENJOY
bath all the luxurious from It's space paih ~
cents at an adjoining house. and then entered the shed
coverino the tank where found two sun-browned Nor
mon boys plunging about In the smoking milky wafer
GdBins as they were I'm appearance they behaved the
selves with natural prOpriety, and their ungranna"i
speech was neither profane whatever may
said OF the habits OF few confess that the mass OF the
Mormon people impress me very fayOrably Many OF
them coming from the poorest classes Of Europe are
still ignorant but they retain their old courtesy ana
cheerfulnes in this isolation They would soon have lott
among the rough population Of our western hhes
settlement.
was obliged To leave Salt Lake at dawn, and spend
the day among the shantes OF Ogden, IN order !"
he ON hand for the Western train in the evening The
Division superintendens, Mr.. Cook Of the Union ana
Mr. Campbell OF the Central Pacific relieved the tedium
waiting much possible, and the long, bright dSy
passed away pleasantly. Tie mountains behind Ogden
were exquisite In color and light and the moving shadows
of clouds. might have driven up the Ogden Canon ana
its grand gulf and precpces but the landscapes IN
view from the station disposed me to more ndoeh en-
joyment. Some OF the passengers who visited the town
reported il being very neat, orderly, ana hOmeAe
place; those who attended church. came away not much
edited by "A Mormon sermon the resurrection Of The
body in the course which the preacher used toward
the cergymen other denominations the Ethiopian eX-
preston applied by Butler to sunsetCox. But slang
and civilization grow together.
Punctual to tie minute the train from Omaha reached
the station 1Oj miles from its satngpoint, and some
thirty or forty sleepngear passengers rushed
new berths for Francisco Only the Pullman Hotel
Express" passes through without change al other are
transferred at ogden TO the yellow Of the Central
Pacific About an hour was consumed before all were
comfortably established in their quarters, and then
another hour remained for supper-and a very good
One-n the station. At six o'clock, we started Oh the
further journey OF $50 miles to san Francisco.
In the clear bamy evening watched the shirist mr.
OF the lake, flushed with the crimson and deepening
orange of the sunset while the peaks Of the various
mountain ranges darkened from dusky TO purple blue.
For many miles, the track is laid upon the plain there
three Mormon settlements the right at the
foot Of the mountains, but cultivation ceases before
reaching Bear Ryer-thc stream crossed al
Wasach and which, after flowing 50 miles 10 the north
ward suddenly back and finally empties into salt
Lake at this point short distance after crossing IL.
we reached the new town OF Cornne, which IL wholly
Gentle. 1t reminded me Of the incipient California
of scattering struggling collection Of frame
shanties canvas dweliRs and tents row of drinking
saloons faced the track Agh miners from Montana and
Idaho ounged about the station and during In" ten min
utes of our stay fully expected hear the pop Of the
cheerful pistol and the CLEAN of the smiling bowie
knife All was peaceful, however, the oldest and
mOssiest hamlet OF England One after one tho tents
made transparent with lamp-light. and the gray
sparkling encampment.
Corinne seems destined be station OF import
There is good land in the broad Bear River Valley
the northward settlements in that direction in
creasng and, until the Northern Pacific Road Is
peted, this is the speedies way OF reaching the mining
regions OF Montana Here the stages for Helena and
Virginia City arrive and depart daily, and various mil
itary posts also draw their supplies from this point IL
apparently the headquarters Of Gentle oppos
ton to the MomOns Nothing would please the Cornners
better than open conflict between the Mormons and
the Government-they have great expectations OF I'M
proved real estate in such a case.
1t became dark before we began to climb the steep
grade Promontory Mountain, and have nothing or
the scenery record until dawn which found ns near
the the Pass through the Toano range dvid-
ing Salt Lake from Humboldt Valley. An nndulaiing
expanse of sage-bush, with dark, bauen-looking
peaks in the distance the landscape which beheld
II was repetition OF the country between Laramie and
Rawlings, except that instead Of the cloudy sky and
bleak Rocky Mountain air. the sky was filed with light
and the atmosphere had Pacific mdness and sweet
ness along this part Of the line the roinpe
on of the two companies in the overlapping OF the
grading done by each The Union Pacific began to grade
backward from Humboldt Wells but was Oyertaken by
the Central, which, by amazing eXertOns laid down coo
miles Of track less than ten months. Congress IL not
often 80 shrewd when it made the meeting of the
completed tracks the point of junction. That single
clause fastened the work by two or three years
After twenty-five lies OF irregular, monOtonous eoun
try Humboldt Wells, where there three or
four houses and cattle The snowy in front
stand apart, and begin to detect the features OF
valley. mere thread OF stream winds through the
bottoms, and the belt OF grass which marks 1t
grows broader and more rank We advance. This 10
the commencement OF Humboldt Valley, which the road
follows for 800 miles descending grade which only
eight feet TO the mile. 1t seems like PrOV
Dental provision for a railroad carries the track at
right angles through dozen lofty mountain chains,
furnishes water at all points and will support belt OF
settlement. For the greater part OF the distance the
road required comparatively little labor its bed is solid,
Ii is substantially built and the trains run more smoothly
than many an old track
From the Wells to ElkO, have IS miles OF travel
down the broadening, beautiful valley. The air was
perfect in its freshness and purity; the SUBMITS
sparked against the tender, cloudess blue the lower
slopes Of the mountains green, and the spacious
bottom lands invited plow The Humboldt Valley is
a surprise to The early emigrants always spoke Of
IL a desert region, with alkaline soil and forbddng
features Of scenery find it like valley of the Upper
Alps, only richer and warmer, and capable Of yielding
abundant grain and pasturage All that has been
plished at Salt Lake may be repeated here.
Elko a welcome station, for was nearly famished
for breakfast, after four five hours OF observation
the appetizing air. II also very pleasant
upon such lively crowded, comfortable little town,
middle OF the Basin We had fresh California
salmon and mutton chops which tasted Of the mountain
grass the bread everywhere after crossing the Rocky
Mountains Is good that either the wheat the bakers
be superior to Eko is the point OF departure
the famous White Pine district miles the SOUTH
and for the Cope mining region % miles the north.
Three four Concord stages in waiting the
ton; the fare go to either point Here the shoshone
Indians make their appearance, and heuceforh we ind
them at all the principal stations squaws, with pap
pooses at their backs beg for two bits at the
windows, while their lords look idly and calculate
their chances for whisky.
For twenty miles further the valley continues broad
nd heau hen 4 and he