The Portland daily press. [volume] (Portland, Me.) 1862-1921, 1870-08-01

may not be generally known that there are
halt dozen dress-making establishments in
New York city where the sewing upon dresses
Is almost entirely performed Ly men. The
CHIEF OF these is an uptown street near
broadway, but as there are no indications of
masculine surroundings in the reception
rooms, ladies who call to give orders rarely
know the source of their dainty adornments.
Ascending to the second story are to be seen
in the front room, a quantity of big, bushy-
headed Hun2arans, Austrians and Poles,
seated on chairs or low stools, and sewing
with great rapidity on fabrics of many hues
and textures. These men vary in number
from twelve to thirty, according to the sea-
son. When in the street they have the gen.
eral spruce appearance of talors. They work
solely by the piece, aud earn from S22 to S32
aweek, rising sometimes to $50, by working
over hours at twenty-five cents an hour. The
cutter is also man, and is saaried at S25 a
week. Though not tied to especial periods
OF labor, the men usually reach their work at
O'clock in the morning, rest for dinner, be-
tween IL and 1, and depart at 6. They vary
In age from 25 to 60, and have all served an
apprenticeship in their several native coun-
tries, where the use OF men as dressmakers is
very common. The apprenticeship begins
from the age Of to 13. After the latter pe-
riod of life boy is not wanted. He is less
easily managed, his tastes are often biased in
a different direction, and his fingers are less
prone to acquire pliability. For the first year
he acts as waiter in the work-room. He is
taught to sew, but he is at the beck and call
OF both the foreman and men, when their
wants need supplying. During the second
year, his sewing continues, but he is also en-
poyed TO take dresses to customers. and to
buy trimmings. By the latter duty, he gains
experience in matching colors. In the third
year, his sewing is also varied by taking
dresses to ladies, but adds the agreeable task
OF trying them on, and deciding what altera-
tions may be needed. During the entire
three years, he receives no pay, but when the
fourth year arrives, he is paid by the week, at
the rate OF from 81 to S2. The following year
he takes rise as piece-worker, and rises, in
Germany and Hungary, TO the attitude of S12
to S13 week; il Poland, to S5 or So, and in
Bohemia to from So to S5. The best work
men are found in Berlin. In the back room
of the New York establishment referred TO
are number OF girls working upon sewing
machines, who earn from so TO $l2 weekly,
and also several women making ruches, bows,
loops and various odds and ends of dresses.
The mel do not work on machines. They re-
ceve the material cut and drafted, with writ.
ten Instructions upon all details of size, scol-
lops, DC. Each man bastes his dress, and
prepares it for fitting; an0, when fitted, fin
ishes 1t with rapidity at all points. Where
women are employ ed, two dozen are often
found upon dress, working piece-mea at its
several parts. Women, from want of train
ing, are rarely perfect in trade. Some will
excel in one or two departments, and be de-
ficient in Others. A iorewoman or employer
consequently watches their progress, and
many delays occur in explanations ana alter
atlons. Men will not be annoyed in this
manner. They wish written instructions.
and will not alterward be molested. 1t re.
duces their profits. Stewart, last year, tried
gang of men in his establishment, but he
could Obtain no one of their own sex to suit
ablo superintend them. He placed them in
charge of woman, and as she was deficient
in the system to which they had been accus-
toned, they would not remain. The measur-
ing and fitting of the city firm alluded 10 is
done by women. When men are temporarily
discharged during the dull season the firm are
required to furnish them with sufficient work
to enatle them to earn S12 weekly. They
add to their earnings in spare moments by
working at home on such orders as they can
procure. The prices obtain
ed BY che men for making dress vary with
the material. A figured organdie was shown,
completely finished in every way in day and
a quarter, with hens, bands, trimming OF
waist and drapary, high in the neck, with
bretelles over the bosom, and bows, &c. The
price was $50. The price paid to the maker,
of the cutting, and sewing ma
chine work, was $3.50. He was grim, griz-
zly old fellow Of sixty. For plain silk dress,
a man receives 81, and for one trimmed from
s15 TO S2S, according to the work upon it.
None of the men appear to appreciate their
trade sufficiently to teach it to their sons. At
any rate, none of the latter have learned it,
though several have daughters more proficient
in tha.art than the mass OF sewing women in
this city, but not equal in skill TO their fa-
York Times.