New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1870-09-15

Costumes Of a cloth which ia heavier than ladies coth
and little lighter than broadcloth are mace UP or WIN
l'ter These cloths nearly all In DARK rch coorN-ann
indeed n ia evident that with the advent OF more artistic
we NAV welcome the graver, more distinguished
-, I,,s a comfort 10 know that the startling cOmpli
,,,s IN flint which have obtained during the last few
vears are at last fading into obscuriy Inc dnerehl
shades OF dark blue gray garnet ana rch hu'y Drown
promIse to be the most popular. SOFT awool pi"' III
green blue and black trimmed with Dhck NeNe OF sr"'
grain will again be With these SUNS pack Ve7S
fastened by moss agate buttons, are Imperative Inc
Iose in the back will he little worn TINS
season except the shawl costumes ana even they are
Thought to prettier half-htting These costumes
are 40 much worn that many. women heNitate IN
nin, ,hem not caring TO toss their individuality into
the stream OF gray mixture. The handsomest ones are
imported and cost from SIS TO SO They are made from
shawls of exquisite fneness possessing not only fringe
hut soft shaded borders The oyerskrt and loose Jacket
have these borders stitched above the fringe. Pretty
suits very dark gray with borders shading into black
are for second mourning Elegant suits In dark
Scotch paids with half fitting Jackets have long scaf'
Of the same which are passed the right shoulder
and tied under the left few inches to the back and
down upon the skirt The Of the imported shawl
costumes are usually coat, while those manufactured
here costing from S2 to s5 have loose hanging sleeves
few imported suits of plads little heavier than
the sbawls, and trimmed with wooden fringe made eS-
pressly match. These suits very attractive. ana
Early Fan suits IN japanese Did'h,
brown gray gros grain deliberately trimmed with
lace Hat peatings Very distinguished costumes OF
black gros grain have undraped Overskirts and wide
sleeves and are trimmed with broad, fiat peatngs OF
the same beneath which visible row each OF black
thread and white Duchesse lace. Veyeteen has disap-
pearod. Velvet will be worn somewhat as a part OF
costumes but not a whole Sailor costumes VIII 10
seen the street this Fall, worn by young girls with
slender erect figures These rather quaint and
dash in eff
cloths skirt and blouse with broad sailor collar Inc
collar and sleeves edged with narrow Dand anu
peating OF black gros grain, while the skirt mas u
broader trimming OF the same round the Dottom'
looped overskrt Of the gros grain IL worn with these
suits When they of delicate gray TINT gray SILK Is
used for trimming and oyerskirt The collar and the
deep cuffs are sometimes embroidered with anchors IN
black or gold thread.
--C1oaks and wraps are not very abundant Inc UNI
yersal suit drove them from the field long ago, anh
though they make htful and desperate charges every
season. they very successful. The most strk-
ing mportatons are halfhting jackets Of satiny dark
blue or brown cloths slasbed behind and sometimes at
the sides. They generally trimmed with heaVy SIX
embroidery delicate round braids stitched on In eab
crate figures. Coaks Of heavy silk will he lined and
trimmed with short furs-chiehy for driving. open
breakfast Jackets dark cashmere with vests of the
same trimmed with brilliant Oriental embroidery, are
thoroughly captivating.
Satin has reappeared n trimming, and will be much
worn during the Fall and Winter. GrOs grain folds and
pleatings maintain their ascendency There Is mch re-
lucancc manifested in giving up the bias yelYet Dands
but Paulina says that they are doomed Tney wl now
ever, ,stl be used draped costumes Of black SIR
Gmps handsOmer than ever and are IN favor. very
beautiful embroidery in silk applique Is used with charm
ing effect Jet trimmings are again to he worn, put III
the gimp is hidden as much "a possible Lace VIII De
ciennes and Duchesse are sold The Duchesse Is very
striking in effect but Pauna thinks Naenciennes prefera
bic, as il is much softer and more airy. 80 - -
Evening
dresses. best liked at present They are trimmed
Puds are rarely seen now except evening dresses.
Muslin pleatngs under silk ones will stu be used eros
grains with satin stripes are usually worn Win la9e
Oyerdresses, the Ongtrained skirt often et perIectD
plain. For costumes consisting entirely on heavy mate
rails, satin, velvet and SILK me SNORT EXIT Tit
court train is more graceful style than he long skt
dresses il quite high the shoulders and at the back
but very low on the bosom. The neck Is edged ny a
ruff Orgindy costumes almost. covered with lace will
he by young girls about these dresses not par
The FAN bonnets are enchanting little, affairs.
eoqSettshy peePng over the heavy braids hair
trimmings are scars of gros grain roy ale or velvet
and soft crushed roses Lace Is used mostly as paek
ground for flower clusters. The scarf are lana IN t0s
about the saucy little crowns, ana fastened on t9 leI
side by bows and jet ornaments ana are eit hanging IN
two streamers Of unequal length, BOWS ieaher Ups,
and flowers nestle on the top ana over the Sht car III
delicious confusion. A very pretty bonnet D.
black gros grain and profuse clusters Of white
and black ostrich tips nested in black lace Many
tely graduated. Most these in the SOFT quiet
coors which harmonic with all compile Xions, and for
lighting up" they depend upon flower clusters OF deli
cate brillancy. All bonnes have grOs gram or veVet
strings. Az matter Of artistic form, all rOundfaced
women should wear these tied under the chin, while
those with oval faces should tie them under the et ear
Round hats If less audacious in effect, certainly
pretter and more becoming than those Of last Fall The
high crowns and incOherent trimmings which gave
ppant air TO the sweetest, most Spritueie face are
very distinguished hats. of the English
turban shapes with moderately high, NAT crowns ana
rolled brims. They charmngly trimmed with broad
scarfs OF velvet gros grain, and royae THESE scars
arranged in folds around the cr1w ana the ingeu
ends are left floating at the left side SOFT mased cus
tiers feather tips, long ostrich plumes, peacoGks
way over the crown. Black, brown, aud gIaw sirawS
covered with binding scarf and feathers tha II
is almost impossible to recognize the iouhdton het
with all this Of trimming these hats express aug
only only on a% round h hats, While the short tips placed
upon both hats and bonnets Grebe IA ODso- |
e s5e SsSTa "s Straw VIII hats foT ore early
braided coronets OF velvet and silk, with scas OF FOu
threccornered streamer on the left side, the point fin
shed by "a SOFT crmped tassel. Black and brown straw
and the appropriate undress head gear Tor DTlgh
young gir. searfs Of gros grain gau1e ana IeeH S
sometimes perking up at the LEFT In delclouSy I'M
-Collarettes Of valenciennes and Duchesse lace
worn more than ever. American women are beginning
effects Of lace The newest styles have rounded
tabs at the back and on me shoulder i ' EOf
which muslin ia laid ia tiny, almost innitesma tuckS
and pleats Little embroidered Swiss aprons are still
worn The Stanley will continue to he the most popular
shape In linen collars. The preest ~ course s 1t mar
fulaces and broadens narrow ones. Standing |
collars again coming into existence and Will be much
with the coquetish vest. Linen collars with del
cae vines Of French embroidery better liked than
those which perfectly plain. Many pernlckeuy |
DANES go gentemens furnishing 10 buy their
linen cuffs, those they find there are hrmer, hand
somer aud more lasting than the cuffs usually manu-
featured for ladies'
But few OF the importers have returned from their |
Autumn trips to Europe, and IL il vet too early to speak
Of the intricate novelties in materials and trim
ming The tendencies OF Fall and Winter costumes are,
however, fully defined.